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Building a Workstation (Piano Keyboard) PC DESK with MDF I am in the process of building a new desk. The table top will be about 175cm. There will be 2 simple shelf cabinet so one on each side. But in between the 2 cabinets, there will be another desk drawer slider so I can slide my keyboard out. I want to keep this project under £110 as this includes a circular saw which will be about £40. Now while I would live to use wood such as Oak or pine, it's too expensive. I was thinking of using plywood but that is pricey as well. Now I am thinking of using MDF since it is pretty cheap. However, the main issue is I read the MDF board will sag, I thinking of using 18mm board. Question: If I build a timber frame to support the desk, and using MDF as table top over the frame, will this be fine since the desk is being supported by timber?If not, do you think I should use plywood, if so, can someone recommend a place that delivers cheaply in the UK and is cheap, would need 2 large sheets since the length will need to be at least 1800mm by 600mm.Also, will there be any issues if I use wood screws, drilling pilot holes, or will the boards split? Also I am planning to buy 2 sheets of MDF, from 2400mm x 1220mm x 18mm depth. These sheets will be huge and heavy. I can get these two for £34.What I am planning to do it take the measurement to the store so they can cut out the pieces, that way I can drive it myself. I will also buy Timber boards to make the frame and Pine for brackets. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. <Q> Take a look at this online sag calculator to see the amount of sag you would get. <S> Using 18mm MDF shouldnt be a problem if you use a small amount of structural support. <S> Another option would be to glue a second piece of MDF thinner than the width of your desktop to the underside of the desk top, in this way improving the strength. <S> Both options would not affect the aesthetics of the desk in general, as desks are usually quite low, so the viewing angle prevents you from seeing the relatively hidden structural support. <S> Of course if you are planning on placing the desk against a wall, you could always use a couple of L brackets to prevent sagging. <A> There are a number of things to consider that you may have overlooked as a beginner... <S> one of them is what the finish will be. <S> Plywood (unless you buy a pricey grade) tends not to have attractive faces. <S> If you're planning to paint it, MDF takes paint well whereas plywood shows the grain (and as mentioned it may not be attractive). <S> Also MDF doesn't tend to hold screws all that well. <S> My advice would be to post a drawing or photo of what you're thinking of <S> and I/we can give you more relevant advice. <S> Paul <A> If you haven't taken on the project yet: Skip your initial ideas entirely & just buy a Flat Face Door Slab for possibly just 50-pounds... <S> preferably without pre-drilled lockset holes or even hinge mortises. <S> It has the support frame built-in, is already the size you need & is very lightweight. <S> You'd just want to use both Glue & Toggle-Bolts or Mushroom-Head Fasteners to make good & permanent attachments to the door that's now a desktop.
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A relatively simple solution would be to fix 1 or 2 wooden beams to the underside of the desk and have them be supported by your side cabinets, which should provide enough support.
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Do front loader washing machines need more electricity? I am planning to buy a washing machine. I see online that front loaders use more electrical power (around 1500 watts) than top loaders (max 500 watts). If that's true, then why are front loaders called energy efficient? <Q> That 1500W is the maximum motor power of a front-loading washing machine, relative to the maximum of a top-loading washing machine. <S> Front-loading washing machines only use that much power when doing high-speed spinning, and that's only a small part of the cycle; generally they're just gently turning the wash over. <S> More significantly, front-loaders use much less water, and specifically much less hot water, saving heating energy as well as clean water. <S> Another reason for a high peak load may be that it's a cold-fill-only unit. <S> These are designed to only draw cold water, using their own heating unit for when a warm or hot wash is desired. <S> Of course, this uses energy, but in return saves the energy that would be used by your hot water heater. <S> This may seem like a wash [sorry about that] <S> but the hookup is simpler, which can be important in large buildings. <S> More importantly, if the washer is a long way from the hot water supply then there may be more water in the pipe than the washer uses to fill itself. <S> In that case, a hot-and-cold unit would try to fill itself with hot water, but just get the cold water from the pipe, leaving the new hot water slowly cooling in the pipe, ready to be cold for the next load. <S> A cold-fill-only unit would just heat the water it needed, leaving you with the desired temperature wash and no wasted heat. <S> Finally, with that powerful motor the final spin is much faster, and so they extract much more water from the clothes before they go into the dryer, so the dryer will use far less energy (electricity or gas) to dry them. <A> We're starting to see washing machines which only take a "cold" water connection. <S> If you ask for "warm" or "hot", they employ an internal flash-style water heater. <S> This is only practical on front-loaders; top-loaders take far too much water. <S> The idea is to reduce the number of utility connections to reduce labor in large developments. <S> With that same goal, they make "condensing" dryers with an built-in dehumidifier so they don't need a dryer vent pipe, and washers which power off the dryer's 240V feed, to eliminate the need for a 120V laundry circuit. <A> A top loader fills with 20–40 gallons of water three times for a standard cycle. <S> Our front loader fills five times for a standard cycle <S> but it takes less than four gallons to "fill". <S> 60–120 gallons vs. 15–20 gallons. <S> That is an amazing energy savings.... <S> After our front loader finishes its cycle with high-speed spinning, there is very, <S> very, little moisture left in the clothing. <S> This makes drying considerably faster and much cheaper. <S> A full load from our old top loader would take 50–60 minutes to dry. <S> With the front loader, it rarely takes more than 20 minutes (for a full load of jeans).
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Front-loaders also use more power if they heat the water .
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Do you really need a p-trap on bathroom sinks? If I do away with the trap what is it going to hurt? Will something bad happen? A friend had a problem with clogs. He took his out and has had no more problems. Can you tell me why that is? <Q> It stays filled with water to form a barier. <S> You need it. <S> In the right concentration they can even be explosive. <S> Plus they smell really, really bad. <S> Everything that connects to the sewer needs such a barrier. <S> Some things like toilets have the barrier built in. <S> Sinks do not, so they need it in the pipe. <S> Your friend will eventually get a clog further down the pipe. <S> This time he won't have a convenient and easy to take apart P trap for whatever crap he washes down the sink to get lodged in, so he will end up having to spend a lot more effort to remove the clog. <S> Cleaning out the P trap (or just replacing it, if it was too gross to be worth saving a couple bucks) would have solved the clog problem just fine. <A> The p-trap creates a barrier between sewer gases and living space. <S> It's foolish to think you can go without one. <A> In the US, non-P-trap traps are not to code, because they are more likely to cause a siphon. <S> And no trap is definitely not to code, for the reasons stated in the other answers (sewer gases) <A> Never remove a P trap. <S> The purpose of the P trap is two-fold. <S> Firstly it prevents nasty smells from entering your home through the sink, as water sits in the bottom of the trap forming a barrier against movement of smelly air. <S> Secondly - and this is extremely important - <S> it is designed to get blocked when people put things down the sink that they shouldn't. <S> Imagine <S> if whatever it was that blocked it caused problems further down the sewage pipe, underground, or where it meets with the road. <S> So dealing with a blocked P trap is hardly worth thinking about when you consider the alternative. <S> Better still: get a filter for the plug to stop solids such as hair going down at all <S> definitely don't put things like coffee grinds or other items that can build up over time into the sink if you share the house with someone with long hair <S> you are going to need to speak to them about it <S> If you rent, it's commonly accepted in most rental contracts that tenants are responsible for ensuring pipes remain clear. <S> Expect a landlord to get pretty annoyed if you let pipes block regularly, as it costs him money to resolve. <A> The other reason to have a p-trap: <S> Suppose someone drops a piece of jewelry down the drain. <S> It happens. <S> You'll definitely breathe a sigh of relief if you can recover a dropped ring or diamond earring from the p-trap rather than losing it forever or tearing apart your home's plumbing to try to recover it.
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The “P” trap (named after its shape, has nothing to do with urine) is there to prevent sewer gases from entering your home. Sewer gases are not good for you. These could incur huge expenses to resolve. It's not clear from your question if he replaced the P-trap with another type of trap, or just removed it completely.
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Fill 3/8" gap between wood and wall I have installed a new balustrade for my stair and the half wall it is attached to is not straight. Leading up from the floor, it curves away from the wood so that it is about a 3/8" gap at the top - see image below. The half wall is USA 2x4 / drywall construction. Please can anyone suggest the best way to close the gap? Thanks in advance. <Q> Just wrap a small encasement around the board and last couple inches of wall. <S> Three boards finished to match the rails. <S> I doubt you would even need to do 45s, just drop the side boards from the top board by cutting it longer than the wall is wide/thick by twice the thickness of a side board. <A> In the end, I used joint compound to build out the gap. <S> I used wood shims to create a backing and set a depth for the fill. <S> Next, the 3/8" gap was filled with joint compound and left to dry for 24+ hours. <S> Careful sanding allowed me to merge the fill with the existing wall. <S> A bevel was created by even more gentle sanding after the protective pieces were removed. <S> Here is a photo just after surface sanding showing my setup: After a good lick of primer and paint, a capping wooden piece is installed on top of the half wall. <S> The joint compound fill looks just like the rest of the wall. <S> The result is good enough for my purposes! <S> Just be sure to let the joint compound dry fully before sanding <S> (dry time may be extended because of the thickness). <A> If it was me I would've built the end cap of the wall out and then refinished it. <S> I can'tell really tell by the picture for certain that my suggestion will work. <S> Anything else you try to do to it will be very noticeable.
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To avoid compound sticking to the wood and to also give a small shadow gap, I added strips of cardboard wrapped in plastic from a cut up letter file.
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Why do bathroom sinks have overflow holes whereas kitchen sinks and tubs do not? My understanding is that the purpose of the overflow holes is twofold-- To allow water to flow down you drain faster. To prevent overflow if the sink is filling faster than it's draining. If #1 was true, wouldn't you also see the overflow holes on kitchen sinks? If #2 was true, wouldn't you also see the overflow holes on bathroom tubs? So--why do I never see overflow holes on tubs or kitchen sinks? Edit: To clarify, my familiarity is primarily with sinks/tubs in the United States. <Q> In the UK I've never seen a kitchen sink without an overflow. <S> They're universal on bathtubs as well. <S> While they may not get used much in common use, they do come into their own if you get distracted while running washing up water, and distractions are common in kitchens, especially if you're trying to clean as you go. <A> I suspect this is simply because kitchen sinks are rarely operated by two-year-olds, and hence do not need training wheels. <A> My guess (and that's what it is) would be that overflow passages are known to be unsanitary. <S> In an area intended for food preparation, the cultivation of mildew and bacteria would be a more serious concern, where it isn't so much of a concern in handwashing sinks and bathtubs. <S> This article seems to support my hunch. <S> It also suggests simple economics, as U.S. codes don't require kitchen overflows. <A> Most sinks and tubs in North America do have an overflow device, it's simply cleverly hidden. <S> Bathroom sink overflows (which aren't always present -- ours lack them) are visible as North American bathroom sinks are almost universally single basin. <S> However, North American kitchen sinks are often double basin -- and in a double basin sink, the divider doesn't extend up to the full height of the sink, so the two sinks use each other for an overflow. <S> A rather clever design if you ask me, provided you aren't filling all the basins up that is. <S> As to the bathtub? <S> There's usually an overflow hiding in the drain-stopper selector mechanism. <A> I don't know many people who shave in their kitchen sinks, I do know a lot of folks that fill their sinks with water when shaving. <S> I also know a lot of folks that fill their tubs, which is why overflows are also typically found on tubs. <S> Some folks also fill the sink when washing up, in an attempt to waste less water. <S> " But I fill my kitchen sink to do dishes ", you might say. <S> That might be true, but the kitchen sink has a much greater volume. <S> So you're less likely to fill it to the point of overflowing. <S> Also, I'm pretty sure <S> kitchen sink overflows were common back before dishwashers <S> (but I could be mistaken).
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And if you have a double basin sink, they're typically designed so that the basins can overflow into each other.
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How should I lay ceramic tile in a room where one side slants? I am going to replace the tile on my kitchen floor. Part of the kitchen floor (~25%) covers an area by a sliding glass door, that was added onto the kitchen. This area used to be a porch, and has since sunk a bit since the addition was put in (we estimate it has been there since the '70s). Consequently, the floor on that area is on a slight downward angle, compared to the rest of the level floor. I want to lay down long tile in a herringbone pattern. I'm afraid that if I lay it down on the existing subfloor, the tiles that straddle the point where the floor changes slope, will eventually crack/break. Everyone I talk to say I should lay down self leveling concrete and level the entire floor, but I'm looking for alternatives on how to handle this situation. Any ideas? <Q> If the floor has a bounce to it, you're going to constantly be having grout breaking out no matter <S> whether you level it or not. <S> Tile requires more infrastructure than other flooring options, so, without knowing I'd at least say reconsider or have an expert <S> at least look at it for you first. <A> An alternative would be to have a grout line at the inflection point where the angle changes. <S> So run the tile perpendicular to the way you were going to run it and start where the angle changes and have that be a grout line. <S> This way no tiles cross the angle inflection point. <S> Also, don't use grout there use a sanded caulk of a matching color. <S> The manufacturers of the thin set mortar and grout make matching sanded and unsanded caulk. <S> Usually used to create an expansion strip. <S> Good luck! <A> Assuming that you have a suitable subfloor (at least 1-1/4" thick and not particle board), and that the floor isn't settling further with time, there's no reason to expect that cracking will occur. <S> Your thinset mortar, properly applied, will support the tile and prevent movement. <S> That said, it may be wise to look at using a self-leveling material to flatten things out beforehand. <S> You don't say how much the slope ends up being, but a 3/8" by 1/4" notched trowel can only accommodate so much change in plane before voids start to occur.
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If you have a floor that is sinking or sagging, I would seriously consider whether it is sufficiently able to handle tile.
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How one is supposed to "plug" a conduit running from basement to attic? I'm going to install a 2" conduit from my unfinished basement into the attic, through the first and second floor. It will be used primarily for getting Cat6 cables into upstairs bedrooms. 2" diameter is just for future-proofing it. I know I need to use a fireblocking caulk around the conduit in each penetration through the bottom or top wall plate, but what about the conduit itself? I'm essentially creating a 2" chimney from basement into attic, and the conduit will be only 25% filled initially. How can I create removable "plugs" for that conduit so I can add more cables later? <Q> Duct seal is another option. <A> That way it expands and plugs the conduit but the plastic bag keeps it from making a mess on the inside of the conduit and your cat6 wires. <S> If you need to add more wires you can just pull the plastic bag + foam out. <A> A bit of fiberglass (or any fluffy material you have on hand) stuffed in a plastic bag would provide both an air barrier and some insulation value. <S> For an opening that small, that's all that's warranted. <S> The payoff period in heating cost for anything more expensive would be in the decades. <A> I have seen on some sites expanding foam used, it does have the benefit that it is fairly easily to smash back out at a later date if needed to clear the conduit and is available in fire rated variants. <S> Comes in a can.
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My favorite is to use a thin plastic bag and inject some fireblocking foam into the bag while it's stuffed in the open end of the conduit. Duct seal is a dough-like product that often carries some form of fire rating (depending on manufacturer specification) and it remains flexible.
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Is it possible to install an occupancy sensor switch to control 3 light fixtures? Renovating my bathroom, I wanted to have 3 wet proof light fixtures in the shower/tub area. The source is at the light and the instructions are vague. The sensor is a Lutron MS-OPS6M2-DVR-WH. <Q> The wiring diagram in the manufacturer's documentation is quite simple. <S> The lines labeled "Hot/Live" and "Neutral", is the feed from the breaker. <S> The "Load" is the light you're trying to control. <S> To expand it for three lights, you'd wire it like this... <S> Notice that the wiring in the switch box does not change. <S> NOTES: <S> Which means it will have to be positioned so that it can always "see" you, no matter where you are in the bathroom. <S> This might require a clear, or translucent shower curtain. <A> I agree, detection is a serious issue in a bathroom with stalls of any kind. <S> Another place this issue comes up a lot is public bathrooms with toilet stalls. <S> In my commercial spaces I do just that, adding an small LED to the fluorescent troffers which are over the toilet stalls. <S> They also make down-lights with detectors built-in, however, they aren't necessarily tub/shower rated. <S> For those hardware tinkerers out there, there's an emerging trend: 12 volt occupancy sensors are becoming readily available, and 12V LED bulbs and fixtures have been available for awhile. <S> That's interesting for bathrooms and pools, because 12V is a much safer voltage unlikely to electrocute anyone. <A> Can echo though the sentiment that an occupancy sensor can be a pain. <S> Having a long relaxing bath, eyes closed, not moving. <S> Then the lights go out and <S> you start flapping around like a deranged bird to switch the light back on.
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May also have issues in a bathroom with the heat, can be an issue for PIRs. You simply add on additional loads (lights) to the circuit. LEDs make this a lot easier to deal with, because you can just leave a light "always-on", at only 3-5 watts it takes no more power than a common "night-light", yet provides gives a genuinely useful amount of light. The switch cannot be mounted within the shower/tub area, or anywhere it might get sprayed, splashed, or wet by any means. For an occupancy sensor to work, it has to "see" your movement.
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Can hail-damaged shingles be repaired, or should they be replaced? We had a nasty hail storm recently and while none of the shingles are pierced or broken there is extensive damage to the top layer but so far we had no indication that the roof is leaking. Based on the attached images of typical damage: Could this type of damage result in leaks? Should all the damaged shingles be replaced? Is there a possibility of repairing the damaged top layer? <Q> The ceramic granules are the protective layer of the shingle. <S> They're not merely aesthetic. <S> They offer UV, impact, and corrosion protection, and the shingle is vulnerable when they're removed. <S> The roof probably will not leak now, or in a few weeks, or a few months, but eventually the shingles will deteriorate badly enough that water gets through above the top edge of the underlying shingle, and then it can reach the deck and the attic. <S> They need to be replaced. <S> While you could feasibly get some high-grade roofing adhesive and some ceramic sand and individually repair each divot, the result will not likely last as long as the original shingle would have. <S> It'll also tend to show from the ground, either as color variation or bumps. <A> Yes it will leak. <S> This is more of an opinion, but that's a lot of little dings to repair... <S> and if you don't get them all, it could be for nothing (leaks can cause a lot more damage). <S> So, maybe you could run around with a bucket of tar and patch it all up... <S> it would save money and/or buy you some time, but I would replace it as soon as possible (better safe than sorry). <A> You should claim it and have it fixed professionally. <S> This type of damage could result in leaks, you should have them replaced, and don't try to jerry-rig a fix yourself. <S> Depending on your insurance company your rates should NOT go up for making a claim for this type of damage. <S> Well, not your rates specifically as a result of your claim; everyone's rates may go up slightly depending on how widespread the hail damage was, but that will happen anyway whether you file a claim or not. <A> With asphalt shingle roofs, the primary water barrier is the tarpaper or “tyvek” type roof barrier sometimes used today, and is the first layer placed against the roof decking. <S> The asphalt shingle protects the water barrier from exposure to sunlight and physical damage (hail, windblown tree branches, etc). <S> It also provides some protection from a hard rain, but it’s not the primary barrier. <S> Hail damage to the shingle causes loss of granules on the shingle. <S> The shingle then degrades and cracks over a period of time. <S> When the cracks occur in the shingle, it’s only a short time before the water barrier cracks and fails. <S> I had some hail damage from a storm last week, and this past Saturday I found extensive “dings” on the roof where the granules were knocked loose from the ahingles, similar to the photos above. <S> I was wondering if I could replace the granules, and I found the answer here. <S> At best, it’s only a short term repair. <S> Looks like I will be calling my insurer tomorrow. <S> It’s a pity. <S> The roof had a 40 year manufacturer warranty, and is a little over ten years old. <S> The warranty protects against material defects, not hail damage.
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There's tar paper or tyvek or something under the shingles that will help provide a temporary defence against leaks, but you need to repair or replace those shingles.
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What can replace this PVC toilet flange in iron pipe? The old PVC flange appeared to be sealed to the iron pipe by a rubber coating, which is not something I've encountered (in my limited research). Will a simple push-tight toilet flange like this be good enough without additional welding? Its product page mention that it can be used inside cast iron pipes. <Q> See how the broken remnant of your old flange is marked "For Cast Iron"? <S> The product you linked to in your question specifically says it's for PVC. <S> Something like this: <A> I would recommend getting a 4" (or 3" depending on your cast iron pipe) coupling like this . <S> You may also want to clean up the cast iron a bit if you are able to. <S> If the top of the pipe is jagged or pitted, you could take a file or a flap-disk angle grinder to it to polish it up. <S> Maybe not a huge deal, but I'm kind of a perfectionist. <S> It theoretically shouldn't make much difference. <S> Also, while you have the flange off, you might want to make sure the cast iron isn't rotted through in any visible part that you can see with a light. <S> if it is, you'll need to replace the whole toilet drain with something like PVC or ABS (which wouldn't be a bad idea even if it's not rotted!). <A> It was a specialized part, designed to work with cast iron. <S> You need another one to same specs (look up "cast iron PVC flange", like the one sold here ) or replace part of the iron pipe with PVC and use "cast iron PVC coupling" like it was done here <S> They almost always use rubber (often just a rubber insert), because those 2 materials have very different thermal expansion coefficients and they will literally keep moving against each other.. <S> Using the part you linked would be risky, as it may not guarantee seal to cast iron pipe.
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You should use a heavy duty product made for use with cast iron, and screw it securely to the floor with stainless steel screws after you set it.
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Semi-flush mounting a surface mount (NEMA 3R) panel This is a new one for me. The owner needs a new main panel in a wet location but wants the box inset in the wall. I cannot find a reason not to do it, other than it will be a bit harder to wire. The feeder is in conduit and the local AHJ allows the feed in conduit at the nearest point of connection. Has any one run into this before? I was thinking it would not be code compliant but the inspector said 230.70(A)(1) would allow if the service feeder was in conduit. Does anyone have tips or advice? I think the box will protrude from the siding about 3/4" so the door will function. <Q> Leave yourself strategic access for future wiring, like access doors above and below the panel if the homeowner is game for that. <S> Otherwise, sounds pretty cool looking. <A> Having completed this almost a year ago what I found to help was to have the panel protruding through the exterior wall an extra 3/4" and run some nailer plates so I could use the lower back <S> and. <S> Upper back area to install more holes for clamps. <S> The space was to limited using just the top and bottom since I had to support the box between studs. <S> Added a trim around the box that matched the Windows and the owner and inspector <S> were happy. <A> Make sure that things drain where you want them to One problem with a semi-recessed NEMA 3R enclosure setup would be the potential for water to drain out of the enclosure and into the wall. <S> See the figure below (from BSI-004 ) for details. <S> Of course, at least two 1/4" holes or knockouts should be open in the bottom of the box itself to allow it to drain and keep the seal from failing due to pressure differences -- there's not an explicit allowance in Art. <S> 312 for doing this to a NEMA 3R cabinet , but <S> 314.15 provides for it in the case of weatherproof junction boxes , which is enough of a parallel for me.
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A framed-in and pan-flashed sill, like that used when framing for a window, would be needed to drain that water back to the outside -- it'd have holes in it for the conduit, which would then be caulked around once the flashed sill's in place.
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Fill drained rocks or gravels around tree base surrounding by deck I am building a low level deck around a tree that is almost 7 feet diameter. This is the framing right now: Originally I wanted to build a bench around it but I ran out of time and decking boards; BUT now, since I have tons of extra 1" drained rocks / gravels I am thinking about filling it up like below photo (from someone else): My questions: Would this be bad for the tree? Will the base be harmed and kill the tree? Is 1" rocks too small? I could put something (like lumber) to prevent them sliding down and out. Thanks. UPDATE Based on some answers below, I am thinking about a way to solve stump rot and drainage issue. What if: I staple landscape fabric / metal mesh in the bottom. Then fill with >5" rocks instead of gravels Leave like 1-2" of gap between rocks and decking boards if the rocks sit below the boards. The reason I am sorta wanting to do this is because we have kids running around on top and I am afraid they fall or get their legs stuck around the tree. It will be a year before I get time to build the bench around this tree (due to work). Thought? <Q> The tree will continue to expand as it grows. <S> If you completely fill that space, it may start to push the rocks against the deck. <S> More important, whatever you do make sure there's plenty of drainage. <S> The trunk will be at risk of rot damage if you surround it with materials that hold water -- and remember that it only takes a couple years for dust & dirt to fill in the gaps in coarse gravel. <S> Personally, both for the tree's health and for aesthetics, I'd leave the area open. <A> I've found that trees and other plants don't grow as well with rocks or gravel on their roots... <S> but since this is a large tree I don't think it will shorten <S> it's life span as much (as a young tree). <S> Building around trees is tricky, and certainly not permanent. <S> As carl said, leave room. <A> Covering any root area around a tree with more than half an inch or so of soil or stone will cause the roots to die in that area for lack of oxygen. <S> As others have pointed out the tree will continue to grow and push on the deck supports. <S> If you really have to do this use screws that can be removed and leave the central area open. <S> Mature trees like things just the way they are and do not take well to changes in grade or the amount of water they receive. <S> In regards to your update the least intrusive way to deal with the central well is to use 4" diameter drain pipe with sleeve. <S> Lay this down to occupy the space around the well then cover with mesh or geotextile. <S> Top with bark or small pea stone. <S> Nonetheless I do not recommend this as you are taking your chances that you will kill the tree.
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I would not recommend doing what you plan as there is a good possibility of die back from branches that no longer receive enough oxygen and water from the roots.
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How do I remove these Ikea screws? (studs inside holes) I bought and assembled an Ikea sofa bed ( asssembly instructions here ). I'm moving soon and want to take apart the couch to make it easier to lift. Some of the screws needed for the assembly come in 2 parts: the head and the threads. You screw the head onto the threads and then use that on the couch. Here's what that looks like: How do I remove these screws? When I try to unscrew them only the head comes out, leaving the thread part in the couch. I have a lot of extras, so would using a screw extractor work? I don't mind if the screws currently in the couch get ruined/tossed. The way these are assembled means that the parts they hold together remain together even if the head is removed. It effectively becomes a pin on two sides of a box and prevents the box from being slid off the pin. . EDIT: My plan now is to unscrew the screws in step 14 of the assembly guide and then use a thread locker/screw extractor on the back screws in step 7. This should hopefully allow me to split the 2 sections of the couch albeit with the armrest/back still attached. <Q> I would apply a high-strength thread-locking adhesive (e.g. loctite 270) to the inside of the head, reattach the head to the threaded rod (AKA stud), wait many hours, remove bolt. <S> LOCTITE 270 is a high-strength threadlocker for maximum efficacy in the securing and sealing of bolts, nuts and studs to prevent loosening due to vibration. <S> The product serves to permanently lock assemblies which must not come loose. <S> It works on all metals, including passive substrates such as stainless steel, aluminium and plated surfaces. <S> It is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids. <S> Can be disassembled by heating to 300°C. <S> Other brands and products are available From studying the assembly instructions, it seems to me it is also possible (perhaps even likely) that your furniture can be disassembled without fully extracting the threaded studs - so long as all the heads are removed. <S> With the head removed, the clearance hole allows the parts to separate After disassembly you can use the two-nut trick or locking pliers (vise-grip, mole-grip etc) on the centre of the stud to unscrew the studs. <A> I have that exact same couch, and the solution is pretty simple: Just ignore it at first. <S> I had to take it apart as well <S> - I didn't even notice that some of the heads came off until I got further down the line in taking it apart. <S> Just follow the instructions backwards - The first time you will run into those screws is at Step 13. <S> Take all those out, and if only the head comes off, it doesn't matter. <S> The head is what's holding it together, <S> now that you've removed it, you can do step 12 in reverse - you'll just have the two rods sticking out of that thing you just took off, whatever it's called. <S> They can generally be taken out/unscrewed by hand - worst case scenario, you'll need a wrench, but it shouldn't be necessary. <S> The same then goes for step 10 - take it off, and <S> if only the heads come off, you'll have the two rods sticking out, again, take them out by hand. <S> The same then goes for steps 7 and 6 - <S> although here, you will need to reverse the steps starting with step 7, then jumping to 4, and then back to 6. <S> Then everything should work without a hitch. <A> I'm not sure why you need to remove them <S> but I suspect if you screw two nuts together on each screw, tighten them against each other, and then put a wrench on the lower nut (the one closest to the wood) and use that to turn the screw out it should work. <S> Or wrap a few layers of electrical / duct tape or similar around the shaft to keep from damaging the threads and then grab it with pliers or vice grips... <A> You need to start with undoing step 12, that is slide the shortest armrest along the threaded rods. <S> Same goes with step 4. <S> It seems that the heads you've removed are the only thing actually holding the frame together. <S> There might be some resistance because of threads created in the wood, I marked them with X, but imho it should be overcame with force. <A> Then proceed to use your fingers for the rest. <S> I think I disassembled the very same couch recently and it worked with no trouble.
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You can most likely simply use pliers to grab and turn the threaded part counterclockwise until it loosens.
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Problem plugging surge protected power strip into gfci outlet? In my science classroom all outlets on the lab benches are gfci protected--that's great. I plug in multiple computers into some of these outlets and use power strips to do this, but it seems there might be a problem occasionally with this. It seems that there might be a negative interaction between the surge-protected power strips and the gfci e.g. excessive tripping of gfci or even wearing out of the gfci. The electrician told our head custodian that it wasn't good to use surge-protected strips with gfci and I'm wondering if this is the problem and if so is there some way to mitigate it. But, maybe it's just a bad strip, maybe these old computers' power supply? Edit: Before posting this question I spent ~30 minutes searching E-SE site for any information on possible interaction between these two components, to no avail. These 2 components are commonly used in residential and commercial electrical power distribution systems, yes? Ideally, the answer will provide specific technical knowledge on the design/functioning of these 2 components and explanatory/theoretical knowledge explaining why they might interact negatively. HOWEVER, my question assumed 'generic' designs of surge protection circuits in inexpensive power strips and also generic designs of gfci. Perhaps this is a bad assumption? <Q> If either the power strips or connected equipment have capacitors between the power conductors and ground, there would be some current to ground through the capacitors. <S> If there are MOVs between power and ground, there could also be some leakage through those. <A> Surge protectors typically have three MOVs -- from hot to safety ground, from neutral to ground, and between hot and neutral. <S> The connections to safety ground, if they leak any current, would indeed be the kind of unbalanced flow that the GFCI is designed to detect and cut off. <S> A properly designed surge suppressor shouldn't leak enough current to be a problem, under normal circumstances. <S> However: 1) <S> Any surge being shunted aside might cause the GFCI to pop. <S> That's a case of everything working as designed, even if leaving the equipment unprotected by a surge suppressor would not blow the GFCI (but might blow the equipment). <S> 2) MOVs do eventually take enough surges to start to fail. <S> I'm not sure what the failure modes are, but if one of them starts leaking more than its spec calls for that too could trigger the GFCI. <S> Again, though, that's the GFCI working as designed and telling you that the surge suppressor is no longer trustworthy. <S> So I don't see any reason not to try this combination. <S> If it works, it will continue working modulo surges. <A> You all gave good answers. <S> A GFI will trip with as little as 10 milliamps to ground. <S> Since an mov can conduct 5000 amps to ground during a spike it can easily trip the GFI. <S> all it takes is a small power Spike from something turning on or turning off like the AC unit. <S> Gfi's are not compatible with surge protectors is the best way to sum it up. <S> Now you could plug a portable GFI into the surge protector and it would work just fine. <S> The surge protector has to be before the GFI. <S> Gfi's protect humans from electrocution by removing the hot if even a small amount of current goes to ground. <A> It can be an accumulation of multiple devices. <S> Not enough from a single device <S> but given you are using power boards, it is the sum of many small leakage currents on one circuit. <S> Should be possible to fault find, try substituting out the power boards for new or non surge protected model. <S> Also try using less computers and devices on one circuit. <S> It may be an accumulation from multiple devices or one in particular may be causing issues. <S> Narrow your problem down. <A> Actually residential surge protectors have 2 metal oxide varistors, 1 from hot to ground and 1 from neutral to ground. <S> MOV's work by dumping excess voltage to ground. <S> After taking several hits some MOV's start conducting to ground at lower voltages until they fail. <S> MOV's in power strips are after the ground fault protective devices (GFCI's) so if they do there job during a spike or after they are damaged from doing their job they can trip a GFCI. <S> The way to eliminate false trips and still protect sensitive equipment is to install a "whole house" or main panel surge suppressor in the main with a dedicated standard inverse time double pole circuit breaker as required by the manufacturer. <S> This will dump spikes on the line and from other branch circuits that may generate spikes but will not protect fully if a motor load is on the same branch circuit. <S> If motor loads are on the same circuit a plug in or power strip surge suppressor may be the only way to protect the equipment but once they start tripping the GFCI protective device they will need to be replaced.
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Deterioration of insulation can also result in small intermittent leakage currents to ground before the insulation actually fails and trips the GFI or breaker every time the faulty device is plugged in.
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Existing 3 wire service feed to sub panel: bonding grounded neutral and ground bars? I know variations of this question have been asked (the closest I could find is here ), but I'm still confused. @Tester101 explained if the existing feed to the subpanel is 3 wire with a grounded neutral and two hots and is not electrically connected to your main panel, your sub should have a bonded ground/neutral. Is this an acceptable way to ground the sub panel? My sub panel is not at all connected to the main except by the 3 service conductors and has the neutral and ground bus separate. The ground bus is grounded to the earth (2 rods), gas, and water. Now I've read that this is very dangerous as the earth is not a low enough resistance for grounding (makes sense). I read the code that Tester101 linked to in the post above but didn't see where it said to bond the ground to neutral in the sub I guess what I'm most interested in is a good explanation about why it would be okay to bond the neutral and ground within the sub panel in this type of situation when every other time it's a big no no. I live in Oregon for the record. <Q> The three wire allowance is an exception to 250.32(B)(1), which allows existing installations that were compliant with previous code versions to exist. <S> If you want to bring the installation up to current standards, you can install a properly sized grounding conductor between the panels and separate the neutral and grounding bars in the second panel. <S> The reason you need to bond the neutral bar in the case of a three wire feeder, is to provide an effective ground-fault current path . <S> Remember, electricity is trying to return to the source , not to the ground (earth). <S> In the event of a ground-fault, you want the fault current to be able to have a low resistance path back to the source. <S> This low resistance path should allow the fault current to be great enough, so that a circuit breaker (or other protective device) can activate and open the circuit. <S> If you read the text of the code , you'll find that it says " the grounded conductor run with the supply to the building or structure shall be permitted to serve as the ground-fault return path ". <S> Hope this makes sense, and answers all your questions. <A> You can have the best of both worlds. <S> You are allowed to retrofit a separate equipment ground wire. <S> Just run a bare copper wire from the sub-panel grounding system to the main panel ground. <S> Use any practical route you <S> please, there's no requirement that it run with the power cable. <S> (Because it's a ground, and does not carry current except in fault conditions, and then, not for very long.) <S> Also don't ground to gas lines. <A> Your main panel is probably connected to your kitchen, which probably uses gas and water. <S> In that case, there's probably a ground connection between the main panel ground system and your gas and water pipes. <S> The same pipes go to your other structure, the one with the sub panel you enquire about. <S> Those pipes might be connected to the ground system there, creating a ground connection, through the gas/water pipe, between the detached structure and the main panel. <S> If that's the case, then you're out of the code, and you need a 4 wire feeder. <S> Either upgrade the current feeder or add a separate ground wire. <S> And unbound neutral from ground at the sub panel. <S> Why? <S> Consider the following: you have a 3 wire feed, bonded N-G at sub panel, and a water pipe connecting 2 structures. <S> The neutral wire somehow gets severed. <S> Current would flow from the hot to the load to the sub panel neutral bar, then jump to the sub panel ground bar, then to the water pipe, then to the main house, to the main panel ground bar, to the neutral bar, to POCO. <S> You wouldn't notice the defective wiring, you would overload the grounding system, and energize all metal boxes and pipes. <S> Now, why add a real copper wire and not rely on the water pipe to act as a copper grounding wire? <S> Corrosion, dual purpose, future repairs and adding a union, ... <S> The next person working on the water line will not know if serves an electric purpose. <S> Also remember to add a grounding electrode near the sub panel. <S> That's for lightning and such. <S> Completely independent of the grounding system.
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By bonding the grounded (neutral) and grounding bars in the panel, you're using the grounded (neutral) conductor as a ground-fault return path.
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Garage Wiring: No Voltage With a Load The power recently went out in my garage. When I went to the garage and flipped on the light, there was a small spark from within the switch box (where the wires enter the garage) and then no power. Note that my garage was built in 1950, and the wiring is a bit scabby. The garage breaker is a 15A that is in a sub-panel in my basement. I opened up the wall, and the wiring is brought in and split in two branches: one to the outside receptacle, and one to the lights + a receptacle. The hot is connected to 3 other wires (via wire nut), one to the light switch, one in parallel to the lighting (or receptacle...I'm not too sure), and one to the out door receptacle. The Neutral is connected to 2 other wires (via a wire nut), one to the lighting and one to the out door receptacle. The ground is grounded directly to the light switch body. I have found that there is correct voltage between the hot and the Neutral only when:1) There is no load on the out door receptacle2) The lighting Neutral is not in contact with the garage service neutral Basically, the voltage is only correct if the entrance Neutral has no load on it from either branch. When there is a load, the voltage goes to zero. Does anybody know what's going on? <Q> Ok ,you megged it's <S> you know more than most home owners. <S> With a light load everything works. <S> Add a few amps and the arc separates the wires. <S> You have megged it <S> so you know it is not going to ground. <S> The only other problem that I have seen like this is from "back stabs" or broken conductors. <S> With the age of your home I would look for a broken wire in an outlet that daisy chains to the next outlet. <S> That or a problem in the panel. <S> I can say this as a profesional that uses many diferent models of fluke meters & meggers. <S> Very high impeadance meters will show a normal voltage with no real coper to copper connection. <S> Some times the voltage is from leakage on solid state electronics. <S> Other times I have found moisture & dust enough to cause phantom voltages. <S> Once a load is on the circuit the voltage is gone. <A> My first theory is that you're using a typical digital multimeter and the "line voltage' <S> you're seeing is a phantom... <S> you don't really have voltage there in the true sense. <S> The short burned a conductor or connection through hence your current (get it? <S> ;) ) lack of power. <A> Here's another trouble shooting idea. <S> You can use the suicide cord to test each of the original feeder conductors individually under load. <S> First disconnect the black feeder wire at the house and the white conductor at the suicide outlet. <S> If all works well, then the original white is successfully working. <S> Then use a similar strategy to test the original black feeder. <S> You can even test the original ground to see if it will work as a neutral, might be dangerous though. <S> Since you have conduit, you will only need to replace the fried conductor, not all three.
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After reading everything again your Fluke meter may be the problem with "leakage" or "phantom" voltages. I think you had a short somewhere, hence the spark from your switch when you closed the circuit. This sounds like a broken conductor.
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Re-done rooms now much hotter My daughters' rooms were re-done last fall - we tore out the closets, installed built-ins, replaced hollow doors with solid ones, did a bit of re-wiring for additional lights . . . During the spring we noticed that the rooms are now a lot hotter than the rest of the house. And one room more than the other - by summer, this room was a good 10 degrees hotter than the rest of the house. The guy who did the work says that the reason their rooms are now hotter is because they have more lights (they already had one overhead light, part of a fan - we added another light over their beds, and a vanity light, plus a lighted extending make-up mirror, all standard issue), and also because of the new solid doors. In an attempt to compensate, I have turned out every light in the rooms and opened their doors wide, but it doesn't seem to help much. And once the door closes which it inevitably does, it's definitely much hotter again. We thought maybe some insulation in the attic got rolled back when the new overhead lights were installed, but everything seems to be in place. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Thank you for the help. <Q> If it was worse insulation, the room would be colder in the winter and hotter in the summer. <S> If it's hot all the time, that's an energy burn inside the room. <S> What is the wattage of the various lightbulbs? <S> If they are not LED, it's time. <S> Boilerplate primer on LED buying: Think carefully about color temperature and CRI, 2700-3000 and 80+ are good choices for homes. <S> I just installed a ton of those and nobody can tell they aren't incandescent, except of course that they are 6 watts. <S> Buy GE, Cree, Philips or Ikea. <S> Don't buy Lights of America, Utilitech or Feit Electric, no matter how good the price is. <S> Choose wisely, you won't be replacing them for a very long time. <S> Do they own a home computer? <S> What kind? <S> Did they change it recently? <A> You have to have a gap under the door, about 1.5 inches, for the air to exit the room, otherwise the air will not enter. <S> Perhaps your new door is longer, or your new carpet is blocking the exit. <A> More lights definitely has an effect, particularly if the space is well insulated. <S> A solid core door is also more insulating. <S> Maybe more people are spending more time in the room than before? <S> A human emits 100–300 watts of heat.
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If you added carpet and carpet pad, that also increases the effective insulation.
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Banging noise coming from somewhere every time when open or close the tap When open or close the tap in kitchen, bathroom or laundry knock or bang nose comes in every time. Any solutions? Thanks in advance. <Q> Turn off the water, open all the taps and connections (such as washing machine) and drain water from the pipes at the lowest point in the system that has a drain. <S> Then close things up and turn the water back on. <S> If not, move on to adding some new-fangled ones. <S> The air bubble is protected from slowly dissolving by a piston in the new type. <S> Whether it's more or less reliable in the long run is an open question - in attempting solve one easily solved problem, considerable complexity has been added which may introduce new problems over time. <A> Is this a new phenomena? <S> You're describing "water hammer" and it's caused by a sudden pressure change causing the pipe to jump, basically. <S> There are a few strategies but since you're saying multiple things cause it, start by making sure there's no place where a loose pipe can bang against other objects, such as wall framing. <S> In all likelihood you need a "water hammer arrester" installed (or replaced) <A> I agree with Paul, a arrester should be installed. <S> If you can locate where the banging is and have access to the pipes if it's in a crawl space, you can put some straps on the pipes to make it more secure.
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If you had "old fashioned water hammer arrestors" (just a vertical section of pipe) that will refill them with air, and might stop your problem.
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Dishwasher electrical connection up to code? When I removed my dishwasher in order to level the floors and install new flooring, this is what I found: It looks like the electrician just left the wire sticking out of a hole in the wall, but not enough, and then whoever installed the dishwasher pulled and ripped the wall until they got enough cord. I live in Rock Hill, York County, SC. Is this up to code? How do I find out? Do I need to call an electrician? Can I fix it myself? Or should I leave it like it is? <Q> For a hardwired appliance, either one of two things are true in order for the connection to comply with Code: <S> The appliance provides a junction box on itself where the field wiring connections can be made, or <S> If it's the former, then the drywall damage is pure sloppiness (and wouldn't qualify as "neat and workmanlike" if you ask me -- some sort of LV bracket could be used for cable routing purposes I suppose?). <A> This is perfectly up to code, just messy. <S> Your dishwasher like many others is direct wired, with the junction box as part of the dishwasher. <S> No additional junction boxes are needed here. <A> Terminate the NM sheathed cable with a strain relief/clamp at a box in the wall. <S> Install a receptacle with a metal cover. <S> Plug in a 6' appliance pigtail and wire that to the integral box on the dishwasher. <A> I have been a Carpenter by trade for about 15yrs, I've been doing High-end Remodeling for the past 10 or so yrs. <S> This is nothing new even in million dollar, I've encountered Hardwired Dishwashers, the occasional roll away ones that'll plug into your Gfi... <S> I've disassembled & installed new ones at least 30+ times by now & all the same, I've seen some with much bigger holes that technically shouldn't have passed fire codes <S> but you have nothing to worry about! <S> If you're worried about the cosmetics you can Hot patch the drywall <S> or it looks small enough <S> you could simply tape & mud it <A> You can install a single gang "old work" box in the wall. <S> Wire nut a new longer piece of wire to connect to the box on the dishwasher. <S> You will need a cover plate with a hole and a clamp to protect the wire. <S> Current code requires a GFCI for new installs but since this is repair work you are not required to update to a GFCI. <S> My state exempts dishwashers from GFCI protection even on new installs. <S> I have heard some states require all work like this to be done by a licesened electrician. <S> Many states allow a home owner to do all there Electricial. <S> Checking your state amended Electrticial code would be a good idea <S> so you know.
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If your dishwasher does the latter (which is my suspicion), then you need to install a box and NM clamp for the cable (a surface mounted "handy box" would do, as would an old work box cut into the wall) and then use a faceplate with a knockout on the front along with a cable clamp or bushing to route the appliance whip into the box. The appliance provides a "whip" of cordage or wire-in-flex that has bare ends -- this is intended to be terminated in a field-installed junction box. Nor does it require GFCI protection because it is existing and not a new circuit. All electrical connections should be made in a listed box.
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Is this weird wiring in outlet safe? I was replacing an outlet and saw this. It Looks like a wire got split in half and joined together to create a new outlet. Is it safe? <Q> This is obviously unsafe. <S> There are two problems: Safety : <S> the wires are uninsulated at their joints and present a shock hazard. <S> Connection : the wires are twisted together with no screw clamping. <A> If an outlet is abandoned, the joined wires would still need to be in a box with a cover on it. <S> It might be a code violation to abandon the outlet because that would result in fewer outlets than required for the room. <S> You may find similar code requirements in your area. <A> It's good. <S> Just apply some more insulating tape. <S> I disagree on answer posted by Transistor, the wire wrapping method gives the best contact, better than screw contact. <S> Even today you we use wire twist connectors, which is just an evoultion of twist and insulating tape. <S> No oxidizing or bu.. <S> it happens, this happens if you bind two different materials, like screw, tin,... <S> Just twist firmly two copper wires together <S> and you'll forget forever. <S> Wasn't this working until now? <S> Sure it was, becuse <S> it's the right way of doing it. http://solutions.3m.com/3MContentRetrievalAPI/BlobServlet?lmd=1413989388000&locale=pt_PT&assetType=MMM_Image&assetId=1361822756056&blobAttribute=ImageFile
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In the USA it is a code violation to have two wires joined together anywhere except inside a box. As they oxidise the resistance will increase and may over time develop into a hotspot with arcing and potential to start a fire.
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My subpanel has neutral and ground all mixed together? I read that this might be bad, but it appears both neutral and grounds are mixed on two different bus bars. It isn't just one wire that doesn't follow the pattern; there are several neutral wires on the predominantly ground bus bar. Should I rewire everything to separate ground from neutral? The subpanel is in my garage -- it's largely for pool equipment. It's 60A and runs from the main house underground from the primary 200A service panel. This wouldn't be the first crazy thing I discovered from the previous homeowner (eg, shelves sitting on top of upside down square brackets). Also, would this be a reason for a GFCI breaker to be tripping instantly in the subpanel? Thanks! <Q> Four Wire Feeder <S> If the panel is supplied by a four wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral, ground), then yes, the ground and neutral should be separate in the second panel. <S> If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a four wire feeder. <S> Mixing the neutrals and grounds in the panel, will almost certainly cause the GFCI to trip. <S> By mixing grounds and neutrals, you've essentially bonded the grounding and neutral bus bars together. <S> This causes neutral current to be split between the grounding and neutral conductors of the feeder. <S> Which means that the GFCI device will not see enough current on the neutral, and will open the circuit. <S> Three Wire Feeder <S> If this is an older installation, where the panel is fed by a three wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral), then the neutral bus bar should be bonded to the ground bus bar. <S> In this case, mixing grounds and neutrals is poor aesthetics, but not a code violation. <S> If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a three wire feeder. <S> Mixing grounds and neutrals should not trip the GFCI. <A> Yes, in the sub panel ground and neutral should be kept separate. <A> if you will that is not meant to be energized in the normal case. <S> (In the hydraulic analogy, neutral is the drainpipe coming out of the machine and ground <S> is the floor drain under the machine in case it leaks.) <S> This confusion would also explain why your GFCI is tripping -- the GFCI is seeing current out that's not coming back in through it, as it's being diverted through the grounding network instead. <S> (P.S. be glad your subpanel hasn't developed an open neutral, as the current cross-connection would yield quite shocking results if that happened.)
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The subpanel ground and neutral do need to be kept separate -- neutral is the return path, ground is a safety-drain
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How to remove wasp nest and let them leave I find that there are some wasps flying around my house, and even built their honeycomb near the roof or soffit vent. Are there any methods to remove them or let these wasps leave? Thanks. <Q> As Ed B. commented, by knocking down the nest, you'll convince the wasps to leave and build a new nest elsewhere. <S> It's not necessary to spray -- at least from the point of view of getting them to leave! <S> -- as they'll abandon a fallen nest. <S> The difficulty comes in whacking the nest without getting a swarm attacking you. <S> If you're fast :-) <S> Otherwise, some spray to at least kill the exterior wasps and dissuade insiders from coming out a poisoned entrance should precede the knocking-down step. <A> I've done this multiple times, all successfully: At night, when they're calm, take a plastic jar or cup (see-through is important) with a mouth as wide as the nest. <S> Put a crumpled paper towel in the bottom. <S> This will absorb shock so the nest remains intact. <S> Bring some thin cardboard that can cover the jar opening. <S> With one hand, place the jar over the nest with the rim against the surface <S> the nest is attached to. <S> Scrape <S> the nest off the surface by sliding the jar sideways, keeping the lid against the surface. <S> Once the nest is detached. <S> Bring in the cardboard in and slip it between the jar and the surface. <S> Now take the jar and cardboard as one and place them on the ground somewhere away from normal activity with the cardboard on the top. <S> At this point I usually take a long broom handle or spray water to knock off the cardboard and then run inside. <A> Wasps can be dangerous especially if you are allergic <S> so I would suggest hiring a professional exterminator because they have the right tools and safety gear to do the job properly. <S> Wasps are very territorial and can sense danger so they will attack and sting. <S> If the nest is near your home, just call a professional to do it for you. <S> They will treat the area and also remove the nest for you to avoid secondary infestation. <A> If the wasps can be tolerated until winter, it's much safer to knock down the nest when it's below freezing. <S> I take a 5 gallon bucket and jab at the nest with a broom handle until it's all in the bucket. <S> Never had one fly out while I was doing it. <S> Then I spray the soffits with a natural repellent - usually a peppermint oil spray, such as EcoSmart Wasp & Hornet Killer. <S> Safe around people and pets. <S> I never use poisons. <S> If you spray the soffits every few months with peppermint oil, you're less likely to get paper wasps. <S> They hate the stuff. <S> Helps keep some spiders away as well.
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you can wait for a very cool night, hit the nest with a long pole, and run inside.
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Can tankless water heaters be used in Europe? I just discovered tankless water heater technology while browsing alternatives to gas based water heating, more specifically the ones designed in the United States by EcoSmart . I have been trying to find if these tankless water heaters can be installed and used in Europe (more specifically, in Western European countries), but until now I've only found a few of them on UK's Ebay. My country's electrical appliances sellers do not seem to even know about this type of water heating. Currently my knowledge about this is also very limited, therefore if I purchase one of these will a professional electrician be able to install it directly or will it require a specific transformer? And is the warranty valid in Europe? They allow a fewer time warranty for "outside of continental US and Canada" but it needs to be installed within 30 days of purchase and their form must also be filled out and sent within this time frame with an installer license... So does it need to be a US installer license? Side question: Is there a reason why this technology does not seem to be popular in European countries? <Q> They are much more common in Europe than in the USA, actually. <S> You may not be using the right search terms, and searching from your PC may not be the way to go about this. <A> In the UK, I believe the equivalent system is usually referred to as a combi-boiler rather than as a "tankless water heater". <S> A combi boiler is both a high-efficiency water heater and a central heating boiler, combined (hence the name) within one compact unit. <S> Therefore, no separate hot water cylinder is required , offering space saving within the property. <S> - Bosch-Worcester <S> I have the impression they are very popular in new-builds due to the space savings <S> (IIRC estate agents floor-area figures exclude non-habitable space like airing cupboards - so builders probably prefer not to spend money building such space). <S> So it may be that they have a different name, not that they are unpopular. <A> Here (Italy) <S> what is <S> very infrequent for home is tanked (if present it's about 80L, bigger units used mostly for solar). <S> Due to high electric bills (20c/kWh) and power limiters (standard home has only 3.3kW power supply). <S> We can find also 'combi' with a little tank (40 to 80L) useful if we have a tub so it can be filled quiker. <S> Tankless gas is by-far the most common way to heat water ususlly in 'combi' units (space heat+DHW) or in 'water heat' only. <S> I've never seen tankless electric. <S> Also here is rarely found 'forced air' heating, almost all homes are heated with radiators.
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But if you're in Europe in a shop, you shouldn't have any trouble finding European models made for Europe in Europe.
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How can I be sure all the asbestos particles are gone? So we got rid of the popcorn ceiling that had asbestos. Now my wife is worried about the particles that might still be lingering in the air. How long until it settles down? Wet-mopping, HEPA vacuuming and opening the doors/windows will help? I sealed the vents. Should I still be worried about residue in the ductwork? <Q> If you had the ceiling removed by "professional certified removers" then you are free of asbestos. <S> They should have sealed everything up, including vents, etc. <S> before starting and all the particulates were pulled out of the air as the removal was done. <S> Now on the otherhand if you did it yourself or hired some shady under the counter removal company, your probably exposed already <S> so nothing you do now will matter much. <S> There is a bit of hope in that the asbestos used was probably long grain(Old terminology, now they are classified by color.) <S> rather than short grain. <S> Long grain is less toxic than short grain but can still cause cancer, etc. <S> Cleaning everything, ducts, Furnace, filters, air conditioners, rugs, walls, floors, household items, etc., etc., etc. <S> will help remove residual contamination, as will leaving all windows and doors open. <S> Use masks if you do the cleaning yourselves and a water vacuum to clean the rugs. <S> It will cost a small fortune to have an asbestos removal company do a whole house clean. <S> Also in many states doing asbestos removal yourself is illegal. <S> So if you removed the ceiling yourselves don't get pro's in after the fact as its way too late and way too costly. <A> As long as it's not airborne u r ok. <S> If you removed it wet, and disposed of it, you can breathe a sigh of relief. <S> ;*)Check your vents for sure, with a wet cloth, but just enjoy your new place. <S> If you are really worried, you can paint your vents. <S> Encapsilation, i. e. <S> Covering it up is another way of living with it safely. <S> Signed, KC, not a professional <S> but we learned things in 60 + years <A> Get an air test, as that will tell you for sure how much asbestos is floating around. <S> There are companies that do this sort of testing (for a few hundred bucks or so) or you may be able to get a kit to do it yourself and send to a lab to analyze. <S> They should take several readings from both inside and outside, as you want to compare the inside readings to the ambient levels outside. <S> They should also used some kind of forced air system, like a blower or fan, to stir up dust while taking the measurement, as this will provide a more realistic measurement of the air quality. <A> All of your approaches are probably the only options...there's nothing else I can think of. <S> Regarding the ducts, if they were sealed, the only way some asbestos could get there would be via intake, if there was asbestos in the air generally. <S> So it would go in and out and the proportion of asbestos in the ducts would be the same as out of the ducts. <S> In other words, I don't think a duct cleaning would be an improvement, if that's what you're considering.
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Once spread all over your home asbestos is hard to impossible to remove completely.
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Can I put my air conditioner on a light switch? I have a window mounted air conditioner that turns on and off by twisting a knob on the front of it, it's not a smart a/c, it's either on or off. It's not always convenient to get up and turn it on or off (for instance in middle of the night). I was wondering if it would be safe to put it on a switch (light switch controlled outlet or a cord switch)? I'm just not sure if the unit is likely to do any kind of shutdown procedure or if it just cuts the power when I turn the knob. <Q> Assuming you're plugging this unit into a standard wall outlet, then just replace the outlet itself with a switched outlet. <S> Better yet, get yourself the infamous "clap on - clap off" controller <S> and you can control it w/o even raising your head off the pillow :-) <S> But, as Levi warns, air conditioners, to be precise, their compressors, do not like rapid on/off cycling. <S> If you're going to use an external switch, be sure not to turn it on within maybe 10 minutes of turning it off. <A> Sounds like you could utilize a regular wall receptacle controlled by a wall toggle switch (I would not consider a cord switch). <S> I would use a heavy duty receptacle and a wall toggle with a higher rating than "standard" (like 20 amp). <S> I do that for household motor loads because they pull an initial inductive load that seems to stress and kill regular lighting toggles and cheap receptacles over time. <A> The device must account for power cycling when it is first installed or during power outages. <S> The real question is are the components engineered to handle this on a more frequent basis? <S> Probably, but only the manufacturer could answer this definitively and good luck getting an answer! <S> You might be lucky with an install manual (google the model number) but unlikely. <S> In the absence of manufacturer specs on this, you could infer that it is OK if the unit does not draw any power when off. <S> Put it on a load sensor, and if there is zero load when the knob is off you should be fine. <S> No electrical sensor? <S> Go to the panel and turn off all breakers except the one with the AC. <S> Unplug everything else on the same circuit. <S> If your meter completely stops, you're all good!
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If it draws power when the knob is off, I wouldn't recommend it.
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Using an oscillating saw for long cuts The initial response to the proposition of doing 100-inch straight cuts with a cordless oscillating saw will be "are you mad?", but I still wonder. I'm just starting out in DIY and decided to get a jigsaw for versatility. It can do flexible, it can do long straight cuts if you clamp on a guide (although it will be slow), etc. And then a friend suggested I consider an oscillating multi-tool. It's far from ideal for the job, he said, but it adds a whole bunch of other features that a jigsaw can't do. And so it might be a much more versatile initial purchase. Even with 2x 100-inch MDF cuts needed in an upcoming project. Although he guesses it would be painful to do those long cuts, I would be left with a much more versatile tool he thinks I will end up using more than a jigsaw. And given the fact that I don't know how serious my DIY-ing will be in the future, it might be a better purchase. I'm wondering what you guys think about this proposition. Does his rationale make sense? <Q> The oscillating tool is NOT the tool for the job that you describe. <S> Neither is the jig saw. <S> Even better would be a table saw but that is clearly not applicable here. <S> Get the right tool for a job. <S> Why compromise the craftsmanship with shoddy crap cuts made by tools that are not made for the application. <S> Invest in the right tools, do quality work and be proud of the result. <S> If you cannot give it that then hire someone that can provide it for you. <S> There is nothing worse than a kludged up mess. <A> It is actually possible to use an oscillating saw for long cuts in a pinch. <S> If you are going to use an oscillating saw, make sure you get the best one that is available. <S> The cheap versions are utterly horrible, and do not cut very well at all. <S> They typically come with very cheap blades that get ruined during the first cut. <S> The teeth on them are weak and basically wear or shear off, even on softer woods. <S> All of the teeth eventually go, and you end up causing a fire because you essentially start to burn through the wood instead of actually cutting. <S> The best ones on the other hand, are quite good. <S> I purchased one after owning a very cheap one from Harbor Freight, and there is no comparison. <S> I did a fair bit of cutting with it, and the original blade is still in decent shape. <S> It also has a universal design for the blades, so you can use a variety of different ones with it. <S> Obviously, the better tool for the job would either be a handheld circular saw, or a table saw. <S> An oscillating saw does not make a very clean continuous cut. <S> They are best used for small intricate cuts in tight areas such as undercutting door casings, etc. to install flooring. <A> This is a very opinion based question and response, but whatever. <S> I rarely use either of my jig saws (one corded, one cordless). <S> I might use it for a true curved cut in thin stock like an interior hole or a curved arc in plywood,. <S> For long straight cuts, I use a circular saw with a clamped rail to guide it. <S> That's if I can't get the material to my table saw. <S> If I felt rich, I would buy a track saw. <S> When I first found the multi-tool, I thought I had gone to heaven. <S> For tight cuts, trimming moldings in place, shaving small excess, it can't be beat. <S> For demolition, it is so much more precise than a Sawsall type machine. <S> While it can be used for long cuts, and can be slid along a track to guide it, I would be reluctant to use it for your project, especially if you need a fairly straight (unrippled) cut. <A> Look, if you want to go at this inexpensively as your prime criteria, buy a handsaw and have at it. <S> Unless you buy a pre-dulled one from the fleamarket and don't sharpen it, it will be faster than an oscillating tool, and despite MDF being miserable crap, you'll still have a usable saw after 200" of MDF cutting if you buy a new one from a store or a sharp one from the flea market. <S> Otherwise (if you are dedicated to "all tools must have a cord", or you want it done quicker - <S> but you still want it cheap) find a decent 7-1/4" circular saw used from craigslist or a fleamarket, or buy a terrible one new from harbor freight (one of the options will probably last longer and thus be less expensive in the long run, but either should get the job done for a low starting price <S> - keep the receipt from HF just in case if you do that.) <S> If you never have a use for it again, sell it on CL. <A> If all you have is the oscillating multitool and jigsaw, The jigsaw would be the faster and easier choice for long straight cuts in MDF. <S> Just clamp a guide on the board and use the coarsest shortest blade that can make the cut. <S> And depending on the saw, you may need a vacuum or blower to remove the dust from the cut so it does not clog the teeth of the blade as fast.
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The proper tool for long cuts like you describe is a circular saw with a straight edge guide clamped onto the work piece.
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How do I clean cooking oil off a steel fence? My next door neighbor decided to saturate panels of our steel fence with cooking oil to stop the rust (which was expected and is a desired patina). How can we get rid of the old oil smell and get the oily stain off the fence? <Q> Knowing that you don't mind the rust, I'd go at it the same way you would dirty dishes soiled with the same thing--dish detergent and water. <S> A little scrubbing with a nylon brush shouldn't damage the surface, and the rust will return shortly. <A> You will want to use something that is non-toxic and biodegradable since it is outdoors. <S> I would recommend using car wash soap, and wash it the same way as you would with your car. <S> It has degreasers in it, and is usually safe. <S> Mix a small amount with hot water, and scrub the fence with a stiff bristled broom. <S> You may need to repeat a few times to get all of the oil off. <S> A pressure washer will speed up the process. <A> Most solvents will remove oil. <S> if you really want to strip the oil quickly brake cleaner is amazing and <S> bare metal starts rusting quickly after cleaning with this product . <S> I use it quite a bit and it is one of the best degreasers I have found. <A> Simple Green is a degreaser, it's biodegradable and non-toxic. <S> If you could stand up a sheet of 4 x 8 plywood behind the fence and hit it with a power washer, that'd be great (probably). <S> But if not, apply some good ol' elbow grease.
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Spray the fence with water, and then scrub with the soapy water and let it sit for a few minutes, and then rinse.
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Opposite of double key deadbolt I'm looking for a deadbolt that has the handle/knob on both sides. Basically the opposite of a double-key deadbolt. The purpose is to put it on our basement door out of reach from the kids. An adult can lock/unlock the door from either side and would never get totally locked on either side, without needing a key. Any ideas? <Q> It took me a wile to find one <S> but it is a double loop locked . <S> This will do what you want, cannot be locked and can be opened from both sides. <A> I had considered as a response the pin devices that are frequently used to secure double doors that are installed without mullions. <S> One on each side with appropriate holes in the floor, or to keep shorter people from actuating them, into the ceiling or door frame at the top. <S> The problem with that answer is one could be locked into the basement. <S> Then I found this curious item: Nightlock which could be considered overkill, but has the feature of preventing lock-ins as noted above. <S> Two receiver plates on either side of the door, but only one locking plate. <A> Had to drill the big round hole through the door of course and also for the deadbolt latch itself into the door – main thing was buying two long proper fitting machine screws with nuts that went all the way through the door and joined the two opposite side thumbturn plates together. <S> Anybody who tries the same can just buy the two locks and study the situation and solve their way through it OK in half a day with otherwise proper standard tools and hole saw drill bits. <S> I also installed a door pull handle on each side to facilitate operating the door and also exactly positioning it for latching. <S> Those attach with simple wood screws. <A> I had my locksmith build such a lock for our Autism Spectrum Disorder rooms. <S> Staff wanted to keep the child in the room yet when the child might get violent, other staff from the outside can get in to assist. <S> It works well. <S> My locksmith used a Lori deadbolt and built exactly that - a two sided thumb turn deadbolt. <S> Saskatchewan, Canada
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I was able to accomplish your solution to this problem as you rather originally imagined it, a double sided non-keyed thumb-turn deadbolt lock – I searched for a while but was not able to find such a thing standard made - of course probably the simplest fastest solution is the prior suggestion of a deadbolt lock with thumbturn on one side and key locking on the other side and just leave the key in it all the time (with a bunch of spare keys available lol) – those ARE standard made – in my house I have a swinging door that often needs to be locked to keep a dog on one side of it but easily unlocked on both sides for human passage - in my solution, I bought two standard one-side thumbturm deadbolts and was able to kludge them together through the door without too much trouble.
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Converting an outdoor light socket into a light socket and outlet I've just moved into a new apartment on the top floor of an old home. It's got a balcony / porch area big enough to put some seating out on, and the whole place is surrounded by tall trees. What I'd love to do is run a string of lights around the porch, possibly out into one of the trees and back. The problem is that there are no outdoor electrical outlets. Expected, being so it's a much older home. There IS a bare light bulb mounted to the wall, however. I'm wondering if it would be possible to retrofit this with a socket-to-outlet adapter (possibly one that still allows me to screw a light bulb in), while still keeping it safe from the weather (both rain and snow). Here's what we're dealing with: I'm not sure if I'll be able to switch out the holder, because as I understand it, that would require turning the power off, yeah? And the breaker would be in the downstairs tenants' apartment. I could always ask them, but I'm also very cautious of doing rewiring with heavy voltages like this. What are my options? <Q> Thankfully, since it's a 4" pancake, you're in luck. <S> You can attach a weatherproof extension to it, then attach a new weatherproof light fixture to the extension (since the one you have is disintegrating), and then you can use the extension ring as a splice point to tap off wires for a new outlet box -- use THWN run though a 1/2" conduit nipple for this, and a weatherproof surface mount single gang box with a matching in-use "bubble" cover for the receptacle itself. <S> Don't forget to turn the breaker off before making these changes! <S> (Linked parts are simply examples of what can be used) <A> If it's just for low power users (less than 6A), using one of these "current-stealer" could be sufficent: It screws into the lampholder and you can connect two '2 prongs' plugs on its sides. <S> Also the orange button allows you to turn off the bulb leaving the outlets on (to switch the outlets you'll have to pull you' home's switch). <S> It's cheap and you don't have to ask your landlord. <A> I probably should not put this up but there are screw in adapters that a plug and the light can be used. <A> Kill the electricity to the wires using the light switch that is inside the house, then test that none of the wires are hot relative to ground and relative to the others. <S> If they are not hot, then you are good to go. <S> Convert the light socket into a outlet (not a light soceekt + outlet). <S> Use one of the outlets fpr a lamp, the other for your ambiance lighting. <S> looks like the fascia boar is newer than the building. <S> I bet that there is a void in the brick behind the board. <S> test by drilling through. <S> if there is a void, then you can chisel away the wood behind the pancacke, install a box deeper and have a nice flush mounted outlet.
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Since the lamp is just hanging by the wires why not get a 2 lamp flood light (this will fit the box) and then screw in one of these lamp to outlet adapters.
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How can I prevent water from flowing into my carport under the wall plate? The carport was enclosed but no additional concrete was poured. The sill was screwed directly into the concrete. As a result of being so close to to ground, water has come in under it about 2-3 inches. I was wondering what would be the most cost efficient method to remedy this problem? Could we put water proofing membrane around the sill and bottom of the framing studs then pour concrete or cinder block on the exterior, making the foundation higher (as it should have been prior to construction) even though it's only the perimeter that is higher? Please help. <Q> I would consiter putting in a temporary wall a foot back. <S> Remove the existing wall Or at least the rotted wood cut it off at the bottom and pour a new stem wall that is taller. <S> With a new stem wall the water won't be able to rot out the sill plate, with drainage the wall should not weep. <A> I had this same issue when I built a workshop on-grade on an existing slab. <S> The solution I used was to take a piece of 1" x 4" L-flashing, lay down a thick bead of asphalt emulsion sealant on the concrete pad at the exterior, and tuck the tall leg under the siding of the structure, and the short leg was set into the 'bed' of asphalt emulsion sealant. <S> I then put more sealant over the edge of the metal and troweled it smooth. <A> 2-3 inch deep water that could run out the garage door, that is unbelievable. <S> Dig a sloping trench around the perimeter. <S> Can be as simple as that, or the full monty.
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With the best method being to dig a new footing and put some perf pipe in a sock at the edge of the footing for drainage (Basicly a French drain).
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Will a 4" non-reinforced concrete slab support my swimming pool? I am purchasing a 7' x 10' portable above-ground exercise pool which holds 2200 gallons of water. I plan to set it on my concrete patio which is quite wide and is 4" thick, with no rebar in it. Will the 4" concrete slab support 2200 gallons of water? My pool will be delivered soon so I need to know as soon as possible. <Q> Concrete is usually rated at 3,000 or more PSI, which is a measure of crush resistance. <S> You won't come anywhere near that. <S> So the question becomes one of crack resistance, and that's going to depend almost entirely on the integrity of the substrate. <S> If it was poured directly on organic soil, it'll probably crack. <S> If it's on a good base of gravel, sand, or recycled concrete, it'll probably hold well. <S> Really, though, a crack won't change the slab's ability to support the pool. <S> I'd assume that the pool will be placed on a mat of some sort that would protect it against any edges or irregularities in the concrete. <S> Some calculations (which are approximate, but close enough to allow us to dismiss outright crush strength as a concern): 7 <S> ft * 10 <S> ft = 70 <S> sq ft <S> 70 sq <S> ft * 144 sq in = <S> 10,080 sq in 17,458 lbs <S> / 10,080 sq in = <S> 1.7319 PSI <S> As you can see, crush resistance isn't a concern. <S> It's all about whether the slab has to span any weak areas in the substrate, which could result in cracks and surface offset. <A> I don't see how to mitigate that. <S> If it doesn't extend that far, and if it is on compacted earth or better, it may or may not crack underneath the pool depending on how uniformly compacted the base is, which could be mitigated to some extent by several layers of plywood with substantially overlapped seams. <S> 2200 gallons = 294 cubic feet 294 <S> cuft <S> / 70 sqft = 4.2 feet deep <A> What does the pool manufacturer say? <S> You could have the slab scored, or cut all the way through, into squares/rectangles with a cement saw. <S> This would reduced likelyhood of the squares/rectangles cracking, but may lead to one or more square/rectangle settleing more than an adjoining rectangle, or lead to some tilting (even without the pool).
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If your slab extends more than say 10" inches beyond the 7x10' perimeter, it'll most certainly will crack near the perimeter in time, probably crack even if it did have patio grade rebar job inside.
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Drilled into studs, light flickered momentarily but everything else seems fine now - should I be worried? I was installing shelving in my closets, when drilled a hole into studs, the lights flickered momentarily for 2 seconds. I stopped drilling, and everything else seems fine now. The circuit didn't break and the lights are no longer flickering. There doesn't seem to be any sockets around the switch. Should I call an electrician or is there anything I should test? <Q> Of course, if you put in a screw it might get worse in a hurry. <S> Best bet is that you nicked the insulation on a wire or wires - either from drilling too deep, determinedly drilling though something that was supposed to prevent you (or warn you by being difficult to drill, compared to wood anyway) from drilling into it, or because it was installed improperly (too close to the surface, without steel protector plates.) <A> There are three options, some already mentioned. <S> You were drawing too much power the power line could provide. <S> You can try it by drilling into similar material and watch the lights. <S> If it will flicker you should turn off another device (washer, fridge,...) for a while. <S> If not I have bad news for you... <S> You were drilling into powerline. <S> Turn off main breaker, insert metal rod in the hole and find what line is connected to it. <S> Open the wall and find the wires near the hole. <S> Or, which is much cleaner way, call electrician. <S> They can detect wires without opening the walls, they use metal detectors for it. <S> If all above is false, then you had a bad luck and maybe you and your neighbours were drawing too much at the moment, there was temporal power shortage in your area, who knows. <S> (Thanks Steve Jessop for comment) <A> a few inches to each side of the stud and see if there is a wire there. <S> Nothing particularly special about this model. <S> There are other similar devices from other makers and you can get them at your local big-box store. <S> Note that just if it doesn't detect anything, that doesn't mean you haven't hit a wire. <S> It might just be too far in the wall. <S> If there is a wire where you drilled, you should assume you've hit it and repair the wiring. <S> If you decide to fix it yourself, make sure match the wire gauges and put any splices in a junction box that is accessible. <S> Just cut a piece of drywall a little larger than the hole you created, put it over the hole, trace around it and cut the hole to fit the piece, screw the piece to the stud (short screws!) <S> apply a little mesh tape and smooth on some joint compound. <A> So you now have an electrified shelf that alerts you when your kids try to get to their Christmas presents before Santa delivers them. <S> What's so bad? :) <S> Craftsman Wall Scanner with AC Wire Warning <S> Something like the above (a stud finder/scanner) will tell you if an electrical line is at the spot you drilled. <S> If there is one then you will have to open the wall to determine if you killed the Romex. <S> If you look at the light switch box you can tell of they used conduit (required for many cities). <S> If there is conduit run for the light switch, then conduit was run for the wire to the light and you probably did not drill through wiring. <A> If you don't want to start taking walls down (it can be a very time consuming job, especially the clean-up afterwards) to have a look, I would suggest calling an electrician in and asking them to run an insulation safety check. <S> They have a device that they can just plug into your wiring that remote checks the insulation on the cables is up to standards (in the UK we tend to call them a Megger tester, after the most common brand name, but I'm not sure what they'd be called in the US). <S> This should be able to tell you if you've broken through the insulation to an extent that is dangerous. <S> Hopefully, you'll be able to find an electrician that won't charge too much for this, or maybe even free -- it's at most a half hour job, and as it may well lead to rewiring work later down the line they'll probably want to get in before the competition. <A> I'm thinking about something else than drilling into a wire. <A> Yes. <S> Be very worried. <S> Keep everyone away from the closet/hole... <S> When you can, turn off the house's main isolating switch, and make sure nobody can turn it on while you work. <S> Tape over the hole with electrical tape. <S> Leave the mains switched off if you can. <S> CALL <S> AN ELECTRICIAN to repair the damage you've done to the wiring. <A> You can obtain a wire tracer like this one . <S> It might cost about as much as the time to knock a hole and repair it, but it should be quicker.
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You should probably get a non-contact voltage detector and check the vicinity of where you are going to cut just in case there is wiring just behind the wall. The power used by your drill could've been high and made the light flicker because it was nearly the maximum this power line could provide. As such it would be a very good idea to turn off the breaker for the affected circuit, open up the wall, have a look, and call an electrician if you are not comfortable fixing electrical things yourself. So you stopped drilling and it got better. Since this is closet, there seems to be no real reason not to go ahead and remove the wallboard (or plaster and lath) Repairing the wall is fairly easy if you don't have to worry about making it look nice and generally that's not a concern inside a closet.
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Type of screws for 2x4 shelves and benches I am making some shelves and workshop benches out of 2x4 and OSB, just the standard type you see in a lot of garages/workshops. I want them to be sturdy and support a good amount of weight. My question is what type of screws should I use, drywall screws, decking screws, or something else; what about torx vs phillips? Would I need to predrill holes (OSB/2x4s), ideally I wouldn't so I could make quick work of the assembly. Also what length is good, some places have screws going through two 2x4, would 3 inch screws protrude the other side in that case? <Q> Do not use drywall screws. <S> They are thin bodied and brittle. <S> They hold because there is virtually no dynamic load and the load is spread over many screws on many studs. <S> I would favor construction screws, although deck screws would be fine. <S> You can find both types with drill point tips that make predrilling unnecessary except in harder materials (such as hardwood or mdf). <S> Most carpenters have moved to star (Torx is a brand) over phillips, although some modified phillips (such as Pozidriv or Supadriv) have advocates, but they need special bits and screwdrivers to work at their best. <S> Length of screws should be determined by the thickness of the wood you are attaching. <S> It is bad form (and dangerous) to leave tips protruding because of overlong screws. <S> If you need to go through one 2x in places and two 2x in others, use different length screws. <S> Usually if there is a pair of studs that are already attached, any OSB panels would likely only need to go through the stud it is facing, not the sister stud. <S> Screws can probably be the thickness of the OSB + 1 to 1 1/4 inches. <S> The screws to sister 2 2x studs should be 2 1/2 inches (2 3/4 would be fine, but an uncommon size) <A> You should not have to predrill osb. <S> 1 3/4" or 2" should be sufficient for attaching the osb to the 2x4s. <S> 2x4 are 1 1/2" <S> thick so 2 1/2" for securing the 2x4 framing together unless the shelf's are going to moved around <S> then i would use carriage bolts. <S> i would predrill on the ends of the 2x4 to avoid splitting but not necessary more than 3" from the ends. <A> 1.5" is flat shank, 1 3/8" is threaded - exactly what you want. <S> They self-drill and <S> then really crank the lumber together. <S> Amazingly I've never found anything else like them in the big box stores.
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I have abandoned the use of Philips screws in favor of torx. A company called McFeely's makes 2 7/8" screws called "Promax" specifically designed to join standard lumber.
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On a new main 3 wire panel where do I connect green from MC lite(BX) wires? I had electrician upgrade my service to 200amp and installed a new murray breaker box. Within this box 2 wires feed the breakers and 1 wire is attached to the neutral bus bar on the lower left side of panel(There is also a neutral bar on rt side that is connected to the left side via flat piece of steel(There is also a heavy screw that makes contact to the panels metal shell). The ground rod wire also is connected to this neutral bar. On top right of panel there is a separate bus bar that is screwed directly to the shell of the panel. What is this for? (For green wires)My question- I am adding a few circuits using MC Lite wire. This wire has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 green. Do I connect the green wire to the same neutral bus bar as all other circuits or do I connect green wire to the separate bar on top right? Thank you. <Q> Since this is an upgrade of the service panel the grounding and grounded conductors really don't matter the side they are on. <S> Both neutral and grounds can be on the same buss. <S> If it is a sub panel the neutral and ground need to be isolated and the grounds on 1 side and the neutrals on the other to be code compliant. <A> Check your local codes if a separate buss bars are needed for grounds and neutrals <S> some do require it and some allow grounds and neutrals on one buss. <S> Also make sure if a cross wire between the two is needed or not. <S> The bar screw direct to panel would be a ground buss, but codes are so varying so some require neutral to be screwed to panel. <S> I would expect an electrician installing a panel making it to local code but better safe to double check. <S> Your local codes would be on your city, county and state web sites. <A> Separating them makes life easier if the panel later is turned into a subpanel, but can cause wire routing issues that are alleviated by using the bars as shared neutral/ground bars.
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Since you are adding circuits to your main panel -- where your house's safety bond between neutral and ground is made -- you can wire them into either bar, electrically speaking, and all is well.
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What could cause a 220v dryer outlet to have proper voltage but not power the dryer? I bought a used washer and dryer about a month ago from a warehouse dealer that specializes in used appliances. The dryer worked for about a month then refused to operate. I called the appliance guy who checked the dryer, said it was fine. He was able to hook up another dryer which he was transporting which also failed to turn on. He left the new dryer and took the old one to his shop where it turned on fine. He blamed the outlet or some part of the electrical and insisted the dryers are working fine. he has offered to let me take any same price dryer from his shop and try it. I told the landlord something may be wrong with the electric. He came and checked the breaker, tested the voltage, couldn't find anything wrong. Multi-meter showed 110 from each side to neutral and 220 across both. Breaker is fine, but he replaced it to make sure. Dryer still doesn't work. I called the appliance guy back who took the dryer apart to look for a fault. Nothing. Tried a third dryer, no luck. So I call the landlord back who replaces the three prong dryer outlet which results in no change and insists his wiring is correct. So we have tried three dryers that work at the warehouse that don't work at home. The outlet provides 220v but the dryers refuse to operate. Supposing the appliance guy isn't outright lying and these dryers work fine when plugged in at the warehouse, what might the landlord be missing in the electric lines? He is a very handy person but admittedly not an electrician. If I need to get in person help would it be better at this point to contact an electrician to look at the lines or an appliance guy to check the dryer? <Q> I recently had a problem that stumped me. <S> My dryer had worked for a couple of years and then stopped heating. <S> Turns out, the 220 receptacle had a bad contact on one of the 110 legs so it made poor contact with the plug. <S> I replaced the receptacle. <S> Later, I autopsied the old receptacle, cutting it open by drilling out the central rivet, and found that one of the spring clips had actually broken, so it didn't maintain tension. <S> Of course when I had probed the receptacle I had been able to get the 110 because I was hunting for it. <S> Perhaps your receptacle is bad? <A> Sorry no comment ability but are you sure neutral is actually neutral not a ground wire? <S> I owned a home built in the 50s that had no mains breaker and only four breakers (had to rewire the whole house). <S> No actual neutral was added. <S> Read 220 and 110 on meter. <S> One reason split neutral and ground buss is not good. <A> I <S> It is possible to test the outlet not under load and you will get 240 across x and y and 120 from each leg to ground like it is supposed to be <S> but when put under load it will not work. <S> It will also show 240 on one leg when hooked to the dryer. <S> I have seen this a couple of times in recent years. <S> Check your ground rod connection first then your individual circuit from panel to plug . <S> If everything checks replace the plug . <S> that will fix the problem.
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If it still does not work run a separate ground wire straight from the panel to the outlet (temporarily) to test. The dryer was wired from old 110 wiring taking black wire to breaker 1 and then moved the white wire to breaker 2, and took the ground wire being left on the ground buss moved it to the 220 neutral. You have a bad ground.
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Bathroom Remodel; Tile laid, now told floor is unlevel? I hired a contractor to remodel my bathroom. They ripped out the old tile that was in the bathroom; underneath was a wood floor. I’m not sure what happened after this, all I know is that now, the new floor is installed (porcelain tile) and my floor has a gradual slant to the right. They installed the vanity on top of the new tile; it’s not level, using a leveler to judge and the naked eye it's obvious. I was not told any of though, I had to bring it up to the contractor the following day; that's when he acknowledged it, saying that my floor must not have been level prior to all this, but I just didn’t notice it because I was used to it (been in house for 3 years). He’s going to try to make the vanity level, I assume by way of shims. I’m suspicious of this, thinking maybe they screwed up and are blaming the floor not being leveled? I’m not an expert but I’m pretty confident my prior bathroom was NOT unleveled. I’m paying a lot of money for this remodel on a super small bathroom (10ftx5ft); I feel it should be done right. Shouldn’t an unleveled floor have been realized before laying the tile? Shouldn’t something have been done to fix? Or is this normal for a contractor to lay the tile THEN realize the floor isn’t level? <Q> Yes, the contractor should have noticed that the floor was not level. <S> At which point they should have had a discussion with you about how to proceed. <A> I was a master tile setter <S> and I do not like using gaps larger than 1/16" and with that, I always make sure the floor is level. <S> The smaller the area the more important level is and the larger the tile <S> the more chances of a seesaw effect. <S> I do not think they were purposely negligent based on what you both saw after the fact. <S> In all honesty and respect, you should have paid more attention to the job site. <S> Few things could have been done to correct it, such as liquid level, then placing backer board down, or floating it with thin set first on top of backer board. <S> In regards to shimming the vanity. <S> He should be shimming it for anything over 1/16 of an inch, especially since water is involved. <S> Meaning if you were to get water on the counters you do not want it to run off or if the sink is filled, it would be quite noticeable. <S> I honestly can not say I ever say a job where shims were not needed when installing/hanging any type of cabinets or vanity. <A> Shoddy job!! <S> Shoddy contractor!!! <S> If he does not do it, THEN HE IS A SHODDY CONTRACTOR. <S> No quesion about it. <S> Your contractor should rip out the floor tile and install it again PROPERLY.
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In all fairness, maybe the contractor did not notice just as you did not initially. A good contractor should make sure the floor is level to begin with.
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How to make pressure treated wood look old quickly We are adding a porch onto our old tobacco barn and are using pressure treated lumber. We started in July to prepare for my daughter's outdoor wedding in late October. I would like for the porch wood to look old like the barn. I have seen a lot about making new wood look old by using a vinegar and rusty nail or steel wool solution, but no one ever discusses whether or not you can do this on fairly new treated lumber. It has been hot and dry since we began this project... can someone advise me on this? <Q> Using a light gray and/or brown stain would be the only option I can think of that would work in that timeframe on PT lumber. <S> If you apply it by dabbing/daubing with bundles of rags it might get a less uniform look, more "naturalistic" - particularly if you use a few different shades in multiple applications that are not (each) covering the whole surface. <A> I haven't tried aging pressure treated wood before but when trying to match that grey aged outdoor look on non pt wood <S> I use the following... <S> In a sealed jar like a mason jar soak some 0000 steel wool in white vinegar for a few hours or even da few days. <S> The longer it steeps, the darker the aged effect will be. <S> Rub the resulting liquid in to wood grain and let it soak in... <A> A hair dryer or heat gun applied artistically would have the effect. <S> In movie making, lumber (and many other things like magazines and newspapers) is placed in an oven at moderate temperature to achieve the look of extreme age. <S> I would practice on a portion out of sight or preferably a scrap piece to learn the technique. <A> First, treated lumber is treated to prevent aging, so you will have better results with untreated lumber. <S> Moving along, you need to get some sulfuric acid drain cleaner (not lye). <S> Make a 5-10% dilution of it (for safety- add acid slowly to ice water) and cover your porch wherever you want it to age. <S> After a couple days, use a power washer (just a little too close) to help remove the softened grain. <S> This will give the porch raised grains (as you ate away the softer bits). <S> Optional- for that extra-natural look <S> you could also apply cellulase (online shopping) after acid etching. <S> Then you can stain it. <S> It will look and act like it has been aged. <A> I think pressure treated wood is infused with copper these days. <S> I would try ammonia, as its corrosive fumes can turn fresh copper finish into a nice petina within a day or so. <S> The copper turns dark and eventually green too. <S> But spraying it on once probably will not do much. <S> I would try a very light mist of 50/50 ammonia and water several times a day. <S> Might work even better if you can contain fumes under plastic tarp or bag the wood for a while with some source of ammonia fumes. <S> You can probably accelerate aging, but nothing is likely to work instantly. <S> So some patience is required. <S> UPDATE <S> Predictably, the suggestion didn't do anything, so I experimented and mixed Ammonia with OxiClean. <S> Surprisingly, there was no reaction between these two cleaners and no noticeable pressure when mixing them. <S> Spraying this directly on the wood did seem to make the wood much more tan, but it did not cause the wood to appear any more gray. <S> Not sure if repeated coats would help.
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Some light sanding and rubbing of various objects like an old metal chain or even light hammer blows can also be used to make the wood look distressed and worn...
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How to wire this fan? How do you wire this fan? This is the fan, D2E146-HT65-14 / 455wThe spec sheet of the fan, And this is the cord for it. As the spec sheet states, the 1 to 4 wires are the speeds, so do I need to have a controller wired into it? Or can I just wire wire number 4 and disregard the rest, as I want the maximum speed? <Q> The research I've just completed indicate that the motor may be called a split phase motor, although there's enough ambiguity in the search results to be uncertain. <S> The indication I've found is that each of the four leads is an independent power lead. <S> Prior to purchasing the switch, you can test this by connecting your ground and neutral and making contact with each lead with your 110v source line. <S> There's no indication of the need for an external controller appropriate to a stepper motor. <A> Yes, just connect wire 4 (and neutral and earth/ground). <S> You should do something with the other wires to protect them from shorting out. <A> If you're installing this in an air handler or furnace, you can simply connect whichever speed leads you're using. <S> Some fan control modules will have isolated terminals, where you can park the unused leads. <S> If not, you can simply cap them off. <S> If you're using the blower in an application where you want to change the speed, you could wire the leads to the terminals of a multi-positional switch.
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A four-position switch, typically rotary, with the common to power and each of the four leads attached to the switch will give you speed control.
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How do I remove sticky glue from a surface using baking soda after removing peel and stick tiles? I'm removing "peel and stick" tile from ceramic tile and need to know how your reader used baking soda to remove the sticky glue from the surface after the tile was removed. <Q> The tiles I removed left very little "glue", meaning I didn't see rows of it on the floor. <S> It was however very tacky. <S> I used a sifter and sprinkled baking soda over the entire area, immediately the tackiness was gone. <S> It was about a 10x12 area. <S> It worked great for me <S> but I do think it would depend on the amount of glue left on the floor. <A> I am using turps and wire wool it is working very well <S> but you need good ventilation. <S> I will wash though after with soapy water maybe twice as turps is very oily. <S> helen <A>
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I use a heat gun and a 6in spatula to pull up the tiles that works very fast and easy next I take baking soda and spread it on the stickiness left on the underlayment and brush it in real hard with a hard bristle brush and that gets rid of the sticky residue.
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How to drill a hole in plexiglass (acrylic sheet)? What kind of bit should I use to drill a 1/2" hole into acrylic glass (plexiglass)? The local hardware store does not have a 1/2" hole saw - which was my first inclination. I am now considering these options in the following order: Spade bit Forstner bit 1/2" straight drill bit Step-up from small (3/16") to 1/2" straight bit Knock-out/Step-up bit 1/2" Diamond plug cutters (expensive) I'm thinking the spade bit may work but will leave a rough surface (which I can sand) and will give me less control than a forstner bit. Starting with small straight bits and stepping-up to 1/2" seems safe but time consuming. <Q> You do not specify thickness, so I'll take a guess at 1/4" or thinner. <S> The problem with drilling plastic is that conventional bits will "catch" on the plastic, pulling the bit into the hole with more force than desired, typically cracking the plastic being drilled. <S> Using step-up method to drill the hole will not eliminate this problem. <S> Lacking the aforementioned hole saw, the spade bit is a better choice. <S> I have Forstner bits but have not considered trying one on plexiglass. <S> If you have a drill press and the increased control it offers, you may have good luck taking small bites with the forstner. <S> The cutting edge of a forstner bit is more like the edge of a plane and may also dig in too quickly otherwise. <S> Drill bits designed for plastic have a much sharper angle. <S> A set I recently purchased has an abrasive material on the cutting surface as well as a subdued cutting angle, effectively abrading the plastic and lifting it to the surface. <S> I overlooked your option of a step drill which is the best of the list. <S> Each progressive cutting edge will not gouge into the plastic as much as any of the other available choices. <S> Again, a drill press improves your chances of a good result. <A> If you have access to a laser cutter, e.g. local makerspace or hackerspace, community college, or public library that might have a "fab lab", then that is the approach I would suggest. <S> EX: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjwOC26OJFU <A> you have to grind the edge flat, in relation to the rotational axis. <S> imagine if you held a file parallel to the long axis of the drill and filed the edge of the cutting flute down. <S> this breaking of the edge helps to prevent the bit from pulling through as the bit exits the workpiece. <S> the softer the plastic, the more you have to flatten the edge. <S> plexi is pretty brittle, so you can just file it until the edge is .010"-.020" on the flat. <S> you will want to use a pilot hole, say 1/4" first. <S> just ease the cutting edge the same way as above. <S> when you drill, flush the hole with water to lubricate and cool. <S> don't use oil, silicone or any solvent as it can cause crazing of the hole.
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to drill a hole in plexi, you can use a standard fluted twist drill, but you have to grind the cutting edge.
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How can I power IP camera from same lan cable as wifi AP over POE? I want to mount IP camera on my house , problem is that I do not want to drill into isolation or have cables hanging around house. There is already one lan cable mounted and connected to wifi ap which is powerd by POE injector. Now how can I use this one cable to power two devices. I would buy wifi IP camera so data cables of lan cable will stay into wifi AP. What device would allow me this? <Q> There are PoE pass through switches. <S> The issue is that you have multiple devices, IP camera, WAP and the switch is likely to exceed your power budget. <S> Also the cost of any switches, splitters or injectors that may be able to do this would likely exceed the cost of a short cable run. <S> Wifi cameras generally suck and your issue is power anyway, IP data is not very power intensive. <S> If though the cable run for some reason is nigh on impossible, ideally see if there are altenative power sources near your WAP, if so you may be able to install a small PoE switch at that location or possibly a power supply for a camera or the WAP also which removes the need for PoE pass through and a normal switch or small PoE powered switch can be used. <S> Not the finest solution but gives you a bit more options. <A> The PoE splitters <S> I'm aware of have Ethernet and DC power outputs. <S> Regardless, you can't run two Ethernet devices off of one Ethernet cable unless you use a switch, or one of the devices has a switch built into it. <S> Some Wireless AP's have two Ethernet ports, for example, which means they contain a 2-port Ethernet switch. <S> Most (or at least many) of those devices, though, have a PoE input and a non-PoE passthrough. <S> you're feeding the AP from. <S> You can put the PoE injector anywhere along the length of that cable. <S> It doesn't have to be anywhere near the endpoint device. <A> Netgear GS105PE ~$80 PoE pass through switch. <S> (there are others like it, but it's a good example) <S> Plug <S> the cable currently going into your access point into the switch, then one cable from the switch to the AP, another to the camera. <S> Depending on which type of PoE you have upstream and the usage of the now 3 devices, you may or may not have enough power.
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You're probably going to need to either install a PoE passthrough Ethernet switch somewhere near your AP and run separate Ethernet cables to the AP and the camera, or just pull another Ethernet home run back to the switch
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How to clean this oil spill stain from driveway if council cant help? I am not sure whether this is Engine Oil, Diesel or Transmission Fluid because I was not here when this happened. What i certainly know is that it was a Diesel tractor that caused it. Council won't help with the clean up and that stain just won't go away with Water. What can I do to clean it myself? Its an Asphalt Road <Q> You could investigate trying to spread a layer of the dry clay type cat litter over the spot and grinding it down into the surface with your foot. <S> It may be necessary to leave the clay material there for a day or so. <S> If you see some improvement after sweeping/vacuuming up the first application you may want to try a second or third iteration of the treatment. <S> A final stage of cleanup with water can be aided by using a soap such as laundry detergent and a scrub brush. <S> The soap will emulsify the oils and allow some of it to be washed away with the water. <S> In the case where the spill has actually had a reaction with the asphalt it may be very difficult if next to impossible to remove the spot. <A> I have successfully removed oil stains from concrete using oven cleaner, it has to be the "regular" oven cleaner NOT the "fume free" stuff. <S> Spray it on, get it good and wet, scrub it with a stiff bristled brush, let it sit for a few minutes, scrub it again, spray it off. <S> If it's extra persistent, spray it again, let it sit for a bit, and then pour cat litter or oil absorber on top of it and let it sit for a few hours and then sweep it up. <S> I have made them completely disappear this way. <S> Caveat <S> : This was on concrete, so I do not know if it would eat the asphalt or not so you may want to test it in a small hidden area first. <A> After a few days it has soaked in. <S> Beside trying cat liter and laundry soap as previously posted you could try Coka-cola. <S> But most likely you will need a commercial product that is a oil degreaser (eater)(asphalt safe) to break the oil down and then flush it away. <S> I would avoid trying to just cover it with a asphalt sealer, until the oils are dissolved, as the oils will likely migrate back though and show again. <A> I've been told that pressure washing will help with these things. <S> However I haven't gotten around to trying it yet.
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If there is any residual petro/oil material there that has not reacted with the asphalt road surface the clay material should absorb it and help to clean the surface.
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Why is my fridge causing my lights to dim? We've been having problems with our lights dimming recently. We've had similar problems with bathroom fans slowing, plus the TV and dishwasher will reset. I have a suspicion that it caused by the fridge. It's been making bad motor sounds and freezing up. When we unplug the fridge, it seems to stop our issue with the lights dimming. When we plug the fridge back in, the lights immediately dim for a second and then the periodic light dimming starts back up. My question is whether a fridge can draw enough power to cause dimming throughout the house. I know there's an initial surge when you plug in a big appliance, but shouldn't it immediately settle down? If it's causing further periodic dimming, then is there something wrong with the fridge? Or could this be a wiring issue? I know this is hard to diagnose from afar, but looking for some opinions to point me in the right direction (new fridge or call an electrician). <Q> I agree with Aviator, the electrician is the safest bet. <S> From your description though, it sounds like the Compressor motor on the fridge is either seizing up or has a short in the motor winding. <S> Why it is not tripping breakers or blowing fuses is a concern worth looking into. <S> A qualified electrician will be able to put an amp meter on the Fridge and measure how much current draw there is and determine if it is pulling too much. <S> Only two general possibilities really exist. <S> either the Fridge is pulling too much, or your panel is not providing enough. <S> or the two combined (okay, 3 possibilities)... <A> The problems got worse today and the power started going out for minutes at a time, so we called in an electrician (as people told me I needed to). <S> They quickly found a cable in the meter that was completely loose. <S> It seems like it hasn't been tightened down since the house was built 20 years ago. <S> They were stunned <S> it hadn't caused problems, but said it's probably because we don't have an electric range or electric dryer. <S> It seems like I was wrong about the fridge being the culprit. <S> Maybe the fridge is even a victim of these power issues. <S> Thanks for everyone's tips. <A> If you have such intense dimming that even you TV resets there must be a connection/wiring issue or something wrong with the fuses installation. <S> And if so your fridge is to blame.
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If it would be a overload of your fridge a fuse should go off normally. In your case calling an electrician is the safest course of action.
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Sanity check mini split layout for old brick house I have a three story brick duplex built in 1925. There is currently no ductwork (steam heat) and I doubt that it's feasible to install. Windows are wooden double hung with storm glass, they are in fantastic shape and I'm not particularly interested in replacing them. Unfinished basement, 1st and 2nd floors are all 1380 sq ft, but I'm not concerned about conditioning the basement. 1st and 2nd floors have 3 bedrooms, living room open to dining room standard doorway to kitchen. 3rd floor is 690 sq ft split into 2 rooms. Given the steam heat, I only need splits that provide A/C, I assume these are cheaper? If not, can you totally shut down the systems through the winter when not calling for heat? I've seen there there's some standby power draw, but can that be avoided? I need at least two different systems since the 1st floor is an independent rental unit. Special considerations: We're in a zone 6 climate (used to be 5, but "they" recently changed it) The south west room on each floor is particularly susceptible tosolar gain due to a lack of shade. My wife likes to bake, so the ovenis frequently in use. For my family the all the bedroom doors areusually closed because the children like their privacy and the 3 yearold gets into things. Given all the non-optimal factors does it make sense to put a heat exchanger in each bedroom? Assuming the kitchen should be cooled that would mean a 5 head system on the 1st and 2nd floors, and a 3rd 2 head on third floor. That seems like overkill, but I'm not sure how I'd cool all the rooms with the doors shut. 9,000 Btu/h is the smallest head available on the system I'm primarily looking at. So it seems like I'd be looking at 9-9-9-12-12 = 51,000 Btu in potential total draw, but in reality the max load is more like 39,000. The condenser with this system is actually 42,000 btu so you can't run every head full out, but I'm not planning to. tl;dr - Here's the actual questions: If I don't need the heat is it worth looking for a mini split without the heat feature? These seem harder to find If not using the head feature can you avoid standby power consumption? Is it totally crazy to have 5 heads and 51,000 btu of cooling (backed by a single 42,000 btu condenser) in six rooms totaling 1,380 sq ft. Is there some better solution I've somehow overlooked? The house came with an assortment of window units, but there don't seem to be appropriate (grounded) outlets near the windows they would make sense in. <Q> The way to go here is definitely the ductless mini splits. <S> It sounds as though you have done your homework on this <S> and you can always find what we call straight cooling units without heat. <S> The mini splits are far more efficient than nearly any other system these days and you can choose which room you need to cool and how much it needs and when. <S> You'll be glad you chose to go this way after its done. <S> As far as stand by power, just unplug or turn off a breaker, but its not a lot of power loss either way. <S> As far as over kill, you'll be glad <S> if you add some overkill to an old home, they usually need it unless they are very well insulated and have great windows. <S> Just speaking from experience..... <S> good luck. <A> You can avoid standby power by turning the breaker to the system off. <S> Some of the early ductless system were AC only but just a simple change (reversing the system flow) turns it into a heater so the cost difference is not that large for the benefit. <S> I would also check into tax credits and or rebates from your power company for installing a energy efficient split system in some areas these can add up to several thousand that can make the unit more affordable. <A> You can surely get A/C-only split systems; install one in the wall of each area you want cooled. <S> They are quieter, more powerful, and far less ugly than window units. <S> Keep in mind that the peak BTU/hr rating just sets the speed with which you'll reach the desired room temperature; the units should run at much lower power draw when maintaining temperature. <S> It is true that modern heating/cooling systems are set up to run off a single thermostat, but that's hardly necessary (more of a spiffy feature). <S> Switching to a head + cooling new system is likely to be expensive, since now you need systems to handle every room.
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You might find that the split system is cheaper to run as some rooms on the upper floors require much less heat and can be adjusted to the occupants comfort.
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Is moisture a concern with solid hardwood flooring over a crawl space? I recently purchased around 600 sq feet of 3 1/4 inch solid hickory from Bruce, which I'm installing over a crawl space. I put down a 6 mil vapor barrier in the crawl space. I'm measuring the moisture level of my plywood subfloor as the wood has been acclimating about a week. Most readings are right around ~13% with the overall range being 10-13% with some spots measuring as high as 14%. This is during the humid August summer in Kentucky. The wood still has some time to acclimate. Readings for it at the moment are around 9-10%. I'm wondering whether I'm in a safe position to install solid hardwood here. I'll be installing this with a #15 felt underlayment. If it matters the bedrooms have 2 1/4" red oak installed (might be original to the house) and those floors are in great condition. <Q> I had a similar situation with a house redo with a crawl space. <S> This house is near the coast in Maine and both the contractor and flooring company strongly recommended against using tradional wood flooring on the first floor. <S> They were concerned with cupping of the wood. <S> It got to the point where the flooring company - all they do is wood flooring- <S> would not warranty the work unless we used engineered flooring. <S> It was about $1.5 more per foot <S> but it’s been 3 years and have been very happy <A> The crawl space must not be more moist than the space above it, or the moisture will migrate through your flooring. <S> You've already placed a vapor barrier in your crawl space, so we assume you have a non-ventilated crawl space. <S> This means you have no foundation vents around the perimeter. <S> For a sealed crawl space, the vapor barrier must be sealed (i.e. taped) at the overlap seams. <S> Run the vapor barrier up the foundation wall up to, but not over, the sill plates. <S> Roll the vapor barrier around some PVC or wood strips, then screw to the foundation walls with Tapcon fasteners. <S> For a ventilated crawl space, the vapor barrier on the ground is still a great idea. <S> Wood materials must not be trapped inside a moist cavity. <S> If you were to put a vapor barrier under your new wood floor, you'd trap moisture in your crawl space, which would eventually rot your subfloor and floor system (floor & rim joists, and sill plate). <A> Your post reads like you have an understanding of the implications of moisture on a hardwood floor. <S> I think the existing oak floors are a good indication that your project should go OK. <S> The key points that I have to offer are: Ventilate the crawl space. <S> Covering the ground with plastic is not a substitute for ventilation. <S> Six percent moisture is a good target for both. <S> I like to let the hardwood spend some time, sticker-stacked with air-space around each board, in the environment that it is to be installed in. <S> Installing hardwood directly from garage storage, to an air-conditioned bedroom, for example, may lead to floor board shrinkage. <A> ... <S> Assuming you have some sort of flooring that is removable, I would consider using marine plywood and replace that area. <S> That is what we use in extreme wet conditions such as a car wash. <S> EDIt <S> : Is this actually in regards to the crawl space if not why is the question worded as such with all the extra info.. Cheers <A> A sealed vapor barrier is indicated. <S> More importantly, there should be insulation below the subfloor. <S> Rigid foam insulation, cut to size, with suitable R value for the climate is indicated, and recommended. <S> Remember that household preferences and conditions will change. <S> In the dead of winter house with a higher dew point may have condensate or frost accumulating on (relatively) un-insulated surfaces.
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If the crawl space cools the floor below the dew point of the air in the room, there will be expansion of the flooring, and there could be condensation. Let the flooring, sub-floor and hickory, dry before installing the hardwood. Be sure you open your foundation vents when the outside temps start to rise. A house with one person in it may be dryer (lower dew point) than one with children, pets, fish and plants. The marine plywood withstands water and moisture during all operating hours and is exposed without problems.
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Why do the wires to my dryer's thermostat keep burning off? I have a Kenmore/Whirlpool dryer that a week ago stopped working. The motor and timing would work, but there was no heat produced. I disassembled the entire dryer and vacuumed and brushed every nook and cranny of lint. I ordered an entire set of thermostats, including a heating element. When I opened the back of the dryer, I noticed one of the leads to the running thermostat was burned off and the thermostat was charred and deformed. I tested the thermostat for continuity and it read OK. I respliced the wire and still no heat. I tested all the other thermostats and heater coils, including the motor switch and they all passed. I even went as far as testing the timer, which was also OK. I had a hard time believing the molten thermostat wasn't defective when everything I read said that if it has continuity. Finally, I gave in and replaced only the charred thermostat and it worked. A few days later, the dryer stopped working again, Same problem. I open the dryer and retested all the thermostats and heater. Everything was OK. I also tested the leads at the main circuit breaker and the leads to the dryer. Figuring at least one of the other thermostats has a false positive, I replaced them all, including the main fuse. It worked again and I thought I conquered the problem. Today, I did a load and found my clothes still damp. I turned on the dryer waited a few seconds and again, no heat. The obvious question is, what can be possibly be wrong? I never replaced the heating coils, but there was no need to. The only thing I could remotely see wrong was some fine soot on the heating element wires on one side. Could this be a hot spot? I was also puzzled by how the dryer thermostats never read bad. Yes, I did disconnect one of the leads. Obviously, the troubleshooting steps are wrong. I am at my wits end and a new dryer is out of the question. This dryer worked well for at least two decades and I am determind to solve this problem. EDIT 2 Since I my last edit, which has been a few years, I have replaced various components in the dryer, including thermostats, wires, etc. I discovered there were burn marks on the wire terminals and the component it lead to. The failure was fairly consistent and wondered why it keeps happening. Lo and behold, the terminals I was using were insulated crimp terminals and it was increasing the resistance of the wire causing it to burn out. I never suspected it because there was no apparent melting of the plastic insulator. I wanted to use non-insulated terminals, but they were very difficult to find and removing the insulation from the terminal connector made an unreliable connection. EDIT 1 I opened the dryer and tested all of the thermostats and one of the new ones installed above the coils failed. It had no continuity. I replaced it and now it works. What could be causing the thermostats to fail? I should also add that the ducts are totally clean and unobstructed. My guess is that the replacement parts are of shoddy quality. They were very cheap compared to the ones at Sears. $18 for all thermostats and a fuse versus $29 for just the one that was bad. I am worried that that there may be an electrical problem, venting problem (no changes) or the coil is overheating. <Q> Since I my last edit, which has been a few years, I have replaced various components in the dryer, including thermostats, wires, etc. <S> The failure was fairly consistent and wondered why it keeps happening. <S> Lo and behold, the terminals I was using were insulated crimp terminals and it was increasing the resistance of the wire causing it to burn out. <S> I never suspected it because there was no apparent melting of the plastic insulator. <S> I wanted to use non-insulated terminals, but they were very difficult to find and removing the insulation from the terminal connector <S> made an unreliable connection. <A> I bet they are packed.. <S> dryers need to breathe to heat up the air inside, otherwise, the only things heating up are wires and electronics, eventually your house too. <S> Plugged dryer vents cause house fires. <S> Clean the coils in your fridge and freezers as well. <A> So if venting isn't an issue, there are only a few possibilities. <S> Your problem is either air movement, or electrical. <S> It sounds to be like you're building up too much heat and/or have a damaged/worn out motor. <S> It's been a long time a nice I've operated on a dryer, but if the hot air from the coils isn't being pulled into the tumbler then you'll start getting sensor faults. <S> Also, a motor which is too worn out will leak black or rust colored powder (which is usually magnet or conductor dust). <S> This could (depending on thermostat design) cause them to become fused and not trip when they should which will, in turn, cause overheating and further damage. <S> At this point I'd definitely recommend inspecting the motors and make sure that everything is spinning properly. <S> Mainly make sure that any motors rotate quietly and smoothly. <S> Otherwise you probably have shot bearings which will again cause voltage and amperage fluctuation in a bad way. <S> Although usually bad motor bearings will cause a fuse to blow... <S> so it's probably a fully failed motor. <S> Additionally If your dryer has seen 20+ years of use, I would expect that it needs more than just some fuses and thermostats to be replaced.
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As a final point, a damaged motor can cause huge voltage and amperage flux. Clean the built up lint from your vent duct, and also from inside the dryer - from duct connection in the back, to the lint screen. I discovered there were burn marks on the wire terminals and the component it lead to.
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We painted new drywall before it was primed. Now I am painting a few years later and some of that paint peeled off. How do I fix this? A few years ago we painted some drywall without priming it. Currently we are redoing the room with different colors. I am a novice painter so I put masking tape on that wall to have a clean Edge on the adjacent wall. When I pulled the tape off a lot of that paint on unprimed drywall came off. Are there any options besides removing all of the old paint? I have scraped some of it and got it to a point where it's on a little better. It seems to be the worst at top of wall. Additionally, as I scrape the paint off the drywall have noticed that the drywall seems to be powdery. The guy that did the drywall is extremely anal about dust so I don't think it's from when it was originally done. Soft maybe a better way to describe it. My scraper easily digs into the drywall. <Q> Depending on conditions, any masking tape might cause this; however I would suggest using high quality painter's masking tape to minimize the chances. <S> The soft material you have encountered under the peeling paint is the drywall joint compound used to cover edges, corners, and joints when drywall is installed. <S> I am afraid that you are in a tough spot now that it has begun to peel. <S> You need to make sure the paint that is most unstable is removed, or it is likely to peel off in the future, including when you repaint the wall. <S> Then you will need to: sand the areas where sound paint meets substrate until the interface is smooth, then prime and repaint. <S> OR use a wide trowel/mud knife to apply one or more coats of drywall finishing mud (sometimes called topping compound ) to the peeled area, sanding after each coat, until the wall is smooth and free of visible imperfections. <S> Then prime and repaint. <A> I paint a lot. <S> Paint laid over paint that's falling off is going to fall off . <S> You shouldn't be getting any powder at all off the drywall. <S> Are you quite sure that in your haste to remove bad paint, you haven't torn off the drywall's paper skin? <S> If so you've got a bigger problem. <S> You might want to bring in an expert to give a basic consultation, simply to shut up the wife. <S> So many latex paints tout themselves as being "paint+primer" that I have an uneasy feeling something more is going on here, like water damage. <S> The expert will help you spot that. <S> If everything is simpatico with the wall, and you somehow bought the worst paint on the planet, everything that can come off needs to . <S> (Or it will later). <S> Yes, I know the tedium of which I speak. <S> Use whatever method does this most efficiently. <S> And then take the time to learn how the art of proper prep. <S> You will find the learning process, while annoying for those who thought they were finished learning when they graduated college... is less annoying than stripping a failed coating. <A> I have had this issue before, <S> usually I didn't prime the corner area well enough, and the drywall tape ends up being pulled up a bit, just the top layer, when im pulling off the blue painters tape. <S> Best fix is to sand the area, apply some joint compound, let dry for a day or two, sand to feather it in, repeat as necessary. <S> Then prime and paint to match. <S> Quite a pain and due <S> solely to not doing it <S> right the first time.
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Paint that has not properly adhered to the surface below could definitely peel off with the slightest touch.
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How can I find my bathroom's GFCI? I have a half-bath on the main floor of our house that is small and has only 3 electrical items in it: Light above the sink (and corresponding light switch) Fart fan (and corresponding light switch) Two non-GFCI receptacles (one box, two plug-ins) next to the sink I understand that, by itself, this is against code and that those receptacles must be GFCI-protected. However, my house is new enough (~1995?) that I'm sure this has to be up to code but I don't know what GFCI switch actually controls this. My questions: I understand a device like this will prove that it is or is not protected. But how? If it is protected, is there an easy way to find the device that protects it? (our circuit breaker box's labels are worse than useless b/c of how wrong the labels are) If I find it's not protected, then I'm definitely going to replace it to protect it. Is it correct that I should replace it with a 15A box unless both my wiring and circuit breaker are proper for 20A? (Current receptacles are 15A judging by not having the horizontal "right-angle" hole.) <Q> Step One, which I do for every home I occupy, is to do a thorough map of the circuit breakers by simple trial-and-error. <S> Check every outlet, light, and wired appliance in the home. <S> Print a nice list of what each breaker protects and tape it over the cryptic scribbles left by sparky. <S> Here's my Google sheet for those who'd like it. <S> I left my data in it as an example. <S> Simply make a copy and replace the data with yours. <S> The device you link doesn't locate GFCI outlets, just the specific breaker you're on. <S> I honestly don't know why a homeowner with just one residence to inspect would need it. <S> There are likely only a few GFCI outlets in your home. <S> Try them one at a time and you'll get there. <S> If your outlets are not protected, but are on the same circuit, you should be able to simply replace the upstream outlet with a GFCI outlet and connect the downstream run to the LOAD side, thereby protecting the other outlet (and anything else downstream). <S> A 20A outlet is at most a few dollars more than a 15A outlet, so it's probably worth going that route. <S> It may be legal to use a 15A outlet, however. <A> While I understand things should be up to code, I wouldn't assume anything. <S> A previous owner could have done anything they wanted. <S> The orange button causes a "ground fault" which should trip the GFCI if one exists. <S> I'm not sure what happens if there is no GFCI installed. <S> Also worth noting is you can get a simple GFCI tester for around $10 <S> I don't know of an easy way... <S> Yes, you can use a 15 amp outlet. <S> See this article for code details. <S> For example, my parent's condo has a single non GFCI in the bathroom, but on the opposite side of that wall <S> is their kitchen, which has the GFCI. <S> I'm not sure what the NEC requirement is for GFCI circuit breakers vs outlets in bathrooms. <A> The bathroom may be adjecent to another wet area in the house, so it shares the plumbing and drain routes efficiently. <S> E.g. the wall with the pipes may service sinks on both sides of the wall. <S> That makes it simple for the electrical outlets to share a leg, too. <S> With only one outlet (pair), it makes sense to share a leg with other rooms or even (in a case I recall) with garage (now that was hard to locate!).
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Regarding #2 - if the wall that your bathroom outlets are on have other outlets on the other side, its possible that is where the GFCI is. In fact you can use a 15 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit as long as there are other outlets on that circuit. Our resident code geeks can tell us for sure. They're commonly located in bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, among other potentially wet areas. I fold it down the middle, book-style, and tape it to the panel door at the fold so it fits nicely inside. The logic being unless you have heavy equipment, you probably aren't plugging a 20 amp appliance into one outlet. Also, they make GFCI circuit breakers, so you may want to check your circuit box to see what you have.
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Is it ok to turn off fridge for 2 hours in the evening? I live in a small studio. The fridge is really noisy. I want to put it on a timer and turn it off for 2 hours when I go to bed. Is it safe (food hygiene wise) to do so? I have a relativley old fridge, but I think the insulation is not too bad. It's a very large fridge, (about my height, about a meter in width) <Q> Should be OK food-safety wise, as the food should remain cold for about 4 hours according to the US FDA : <S> The refrigerator will keep food cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened. <S> A full freezer will keep the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed. <A> I think the only way to know for sure is to try it and take the temperature of the fridge and some items in it after being unplugged for 2hrs. <S> If they have warmed significantly than it might not be safe. <S> One thing to note is that a full fridge has more thermal mass and will hold its temperature longer. <S> So you could also try stuffing it full of water bottles or other materials with a high heat capacity. <A> If your refrigerator also has a freezer perhaps you could freeze some water in a container daily to put in your refrigerator. <S> This should help to maintain a low temperature. <S> That being said temperature variations can't possibly be good for dairy and meats. <S> Have you attempted to locate the source of the noise and attempt to dampen or fix it?
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If you open the door a lot, or the insulation / seals are bad, or the temp starts out high to begin with, you may be tempting fate with food spoilage.
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Can a GFI shutdown a second non-GFI outlet? GFI= Ground Fault Interrupt Two KITCHEN outlets (one GFI the other non-GFI) are on the same circuit (I believe). The non GFI circuit stopped working and I noticed the GFI unit will not reset and automatically pop. The disposal in the sink stopped working and is leaking water. If the water leak is causing a short, shouldn't a circuit breaker trip?can the GFI circuit somehow shutdown other outlet nodes on the same circuit? From a troubleshooting standpoint, wouldn't electrically disconnecting the disposal be the first step and try to reset the GFI and test both outlets? UPDATE: The electrical leads to the disposal were disconnected and the GFI was reset. Outlet tests (with a light bulb) indicate power restored to affected outlets. I appreciate every good response below and would upvote them if I had the privilege (not enough points today). I believe that when the breaker is tripped, it will show bright orange (not the case in this photo): <Q> It is common to see this used so that one GFCI protects several receptacles -- there are even "dead front" GFCI devices that have no receptacles themselves, but are solely intended to protect "downstream" loads. <A> Yes. <S> It is fairly common that all countertop outlets in a kitchen are connected to one GFCI outlet, then run to the breaker from there. <S> When we redid our kitchen that is how we set our array up. <A> Today I was informed that the newer GFCI receptacles using something called a "smart lock" will not reset until you've gone to the panel and turned off the entire circuit for about a minute. <S> If you are still having issues, even if the breaker does not appear tripped, try doing this at the panel (go ahead and turn it off, wait a minute, flip it back on), then try to reset the GFCI again. <A> Years late, but the disposal should be on it's own circuit.
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Yes -- GFCIs are provided with a set of LOAD terminals so that other receptacles, light fixtures, or hard-wired devices can be connected in a way that provides them GFCI protection as well.
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What kind of gloves should I wear during electrical work? What kind of gloves should I wear during electrical work? I need to know which glove material is most suitable for this kind of work, as I wish to purchase the proper gloves. <Q> Depends on the voltage you're working with. <S> If you're working in a residential setting, simply turn off the power and wear any type of glove you find comfortable (including none). <S> If working in an industrial setting, where turning the power off is not an option. <S> You'll have to choose a glove system based on the voltage <S> you'll be working with. <S> A glove system should always consist of an appropriate insulating glove, and a protective leather glove. <S> A glove liner is an optional part of the system, and can be worn depending on how dainty your hands are. <S> ASTM D120-14a divides gloves into the following classes: <S> Class 00 - Good for up to 500 volts. <S> Class 0 - Up to 1,000 volts. <S> Class 1 - Up to 7,500 volts. <S> Class 2 <S> - Up to 17,000 volts. <S> Class 3 <S> - Up to 26,500 volts. <S> Class 4 <S> - Up to 36,000 volts. <S> WARNING: <S> Always properly test your gloves before each use. <S> Visual inspection and air testing is the most common method. <S> If you're using these gloves, you've hopefully been trained how to care for and test them. <S> If not, you probably shouldn't be doing anything that requires you to use them. <A> If you are not working with live circuits or high-voltage capacitors -- and you shouldn't be, if at all possible -- gloves are unnecessary <A> For residential work, gloves are unnecessary and perhaps counterproductive. <S> Best practice would be to: <S> Get a tester <S> (so you can check that a circuit is shut off) <S> Check your tester on the circuit you want to work on BEFORE you shut it off (confirms the tester is working and you will be shutting of the intended circuit) <S> Shut off the circuit you want to work on Check to make sure it's off <S> Work bare-handed (I find it easier). <A> Take a few pair and cut the fingers off until they look like these expensive ones. <S> ( source ) <S> I cut all the fingers off, but be sure they still cover your second knuckle. <S> That's about all they're for; to protect your knuckles against the sharp edges of J-boxes, and having a cover on your palm while you payout wire. <S> Note, these only alleviate abrasions and in no way will they protect you from electrical hazards.
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Get a bulk pack of cheap mechanics gloves.
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Weather Resistant or GFCI outlet outside? I am putting an outlet under the eaves in my front yard to use for seasonal lighting. I am connecting it to a breaker that is only powering 2 outside wall mounted lights. The eaves are about 10 ft tall. I also will install a weatherproof flip lid outlet cover. My question is can I install a (Weather Resistant)WR outlet or does it have to be GFCI? Reason I ask is because there is no outlet cover with 2 flip lids for GFCI because of the design, but there is one for the WR outlet. <Q> They do make while-in-use covers that work with GFCI outlets. <S> See, for example, this one at Home Depot (not an endorsement or recommendation, just an example). <S> Pretty sure at least GFCI is required by the NEC. <S> Here is an example of a WR GFCI outlet. <A> Previous owners of my place solved this by putting a GFCI inside, and using its load terminals to power (and thus protect) the outdoor outlets. <A> Also, the cover must be weatherproof when nothing is plugged in, though I recommend an "in-use" or "extra-duty" cover. <S> You shouldn't have any trouble finding a weather-resistant GFCI receptacle , and weatherproof covers for this style of receptacle are also easily found. <S> Article 210.8(A)(3) of the National Electrical Code, says that outdoor receptacles must be GFCI protected. <S> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 210 <S> Branch Circuits 210.8 Ground-fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. <S> (A) Dwelling Units. <S> All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. <S> (3) Outdoors Article 406.9(A), says that receptacles in damp locations must have covers that are weather-proof when nothing is plugged in. <S> While 406.9(B)(1), says that receptacles in wet locations must have covers that are weather-proof even when something is plugged in. <S> Both sections also require the receptacle to be a weather-resistance type receptacle. <S> Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use Article 406 Receptacles, Cord Connectors, and Attachment Plugs (Caps) 406.9 Receptacles in Damp and Wet Locations. <S> (A) Damp Locations. <S> A receptacle installed outdoors in a location protected from weather or in a damp location shall have an enclosure for the receptacle that is weatherproof when the receptacle is covered (attachment plug cap not inserted and receptacle covers closed). <S> ... <S> All 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking receptacles shall be a listed weather-resistant type. <S> (B) <S> Wet Locations. <S> (1) Receptacles of 15 and 20 Amperes in Wet Locations. <S> Receptacles of 15 and 20 amperes, 125 and 250 volts installed in a wet location shall have an enclosure that is weatherproof whether or not the attachment plug cap is inserted. <S> An outlet box hood installed for this purpose shall be listed and shall be identified as "extra-duty". <S> All 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking type receptacles shall be listed and so identified as the weather-resistant type. <S> Personal preference here, <S> but I like the type of "extra-duty" cover that accordions out when in use. <S> Something like the Hubbell-TayMac <S> ML450G . <S> As it maintains a slimmer profile when not in use, but allows ample space for routing the cord when something is plugged in. <A> There are In-Use weather proof covers that will protect a GFCI outlet. <S> I have one on my shelf made by Hubble, Taymac model MM420G 16 in 1 configurations. <S> theses are extra duty and will last better than the inexpensive plastic models. <A> "WR" may not mean what you think it means, it refers to the design of the plastic housing that is resistant to UV rays and extreme cold. <S> It does not provide any waterproof qualities. <S> It is extremely important that an outdoor outlet be protected by GFCI device in one way or another. <S> The most obvious way is as you suggest, with a GFCI outlet. <S> But you can also us a GFCI breaker or another GFCI device wired properly upstream. <S> Also to be safe and to current US codes you want to buy a cover that lets you use the outlet while it is still covered (a so-called "while in use" cover . <S> The old style with the spring-loaded flaps do not provide any protection if you are using the outlet and are not safe for outdoor use. <S> A safe installation will have all three of these attributes (WR receptacle, GFCI protection, and "in-use" cover).
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It has to be GFCI protected, and a weather-resistant type receptacle must be used. And, they do make WR GFCI receptacles, so you could do both.
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Remove floorboard glue from mitre saw I just bought a cheap Bosch mitre saw from eBay in pretty good working condition. Only thing is that its covered in what I have been told is floorboard adhesive. Kind of light brown glue. Its over all the metal and plastic. Is there a solvent that won't harm the metal or plastic and tools I can use to remove it? http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Bosch-GCM-10S-Sliding-Mitre-Saw-Item-supplied-/222234264739?txnId=0 <Q> It is really difficult to remove adhesive from plastics as they bind. <S> You may have luck with the blade. <S> For the blade, Heat and friction is probably your best bet. <S> If that doesn't work you can use alcohol and scrape it off, but that could take a while. <S> Just remember to be safe. <S> Heated metal can leave nasty burns, and slipping whilst scraping can cause damage to your skin. <A> Most adhesives harden over time, eventually petrifying. <S> This makes removal extremely difficult, and you will need to use a flooring adhesive remover to soften the adhesive for removal. <S> http://homeguides.sfgate.com/use-flooring-adhesive-remover-46299.html <S> Obviously you'll want to do a test on some inconspicuous portion of the tool to determine whether the solvent damages the plastic housing, rubber wiring and grommets, decals, etc. <S> Use water sparingly to avoid damaging the motor. <A> Clean the metal parts and replace the plastic ones which the cleaning solvent damaged or couldn't clean. <S> Usually not too expensive but shop around for the parts; prices from manufacturers can be a steal or a rip-off and the same parts can be had for major brands through many sources online. <S> Phil
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Heat up the cutting blade with a blow torch, then use a chisel or scraper to remove the softened adhesive.
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Where is the best place to put a light on basement stairs? The stairs leading to my unfinished basement are a bit dark. I'd like to add a simple light fixture to brighten them but I don't know the best place to put it to minimize shadows and glare. Above the door? In the ceiling? At the foot of the stairs? On the wall? I've searched the web for a while and I can find code about when you need a light and where the switches need to be but can't find a best practice for fixture placement. <Q> A couple of can lights like bib suggests is the most common way. <S> If you put in two of the 4 foot variety, you could evenly light the entire staircase. <A> Why one fixture? <S> No matter where you put it, a single fixture can result in a range of illumination, from bright glare to dark shadow. <S> Consider at least two fixtures, one slightly down from the very top of the stairs, and one or more between the mid point and the bottom. <S> If installing on a flat ceiling, use floods or spots rather than conventional bulbs. <S> These point downward and lessen glare at the top of the stairs. <S> If you are installing in a sloped ceiling, consider using recessed cans with angled trim. <S> This ensures that the light beam points downward, even on a sloped ceiling, and not toward the descending person's eyes. <A> You could illuminate the stair treads themselves with recessed step lights: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-9-in-White-Recessed-Lighting-Step-Light-H2920ICT/100137286 <A> If you want simple, one light at the top of the stairs above the door, whether on the wall ceiling. <S> It will not blind you on the way down and on the way up, the persons eyes are usually focused on the treads in front or the bottom of the opening the stairs lead to. <S> It would take some hard looking up the stare into the light, unless you are a deer. <S> If you want fancier, 2 wall sconces that are closed at the top <S> so you do not see the bulb on the way down, spread across the wall on the first quarter and the last quarter. <S> That is looking as the wall as if the wall space was divided up into 4 equal sections, about 6 1/2' above the run of the treads if the ceiling allows it.
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An alternative idea would be to install LED strip lights, like the ones designed to replace fluorescent tube lights.
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Nail gun and curled nails I've never owned or used pneumatic tools, but recently I thought it would make a good addition to my tools. I bought an 18ga nail gun and 2" 18ga nails. When I used it to nail together 1/2" plywood to make a small box, I had some problems with the nails curling and punching out at odd spots. Not all of them, but about 25%. Am I using too long of nails? Or is it a problem with plywood? Or??? <Q> Even on a good day, brad nails can curl on you. <S> Through your fingers, if you aren't careful. <S> However, if you look closely at the pointy end of a strip of nails, you'll see that they're cut at an angle on only two sides. <S> (The other two sides are the ones adjacent to their neighbors in the strip.) <S> Anyway, the nail is predisposed to curl in the direction of one of the cut sides. <S> (Phrased another way, if you hold the nailgun vertical, the nails are prone to curling left or right.) <S> So you can use this to your advantage... if you're nailing into the edge of plywood, have the nailgun perpendicular to the plywood. <S> That way, if you get a curl, it's probably contained within the ply, as opposed to shooting out the side. <S> It'll usually break below the surface of the wood, and you can fill. <S> If there's not much nail to grab, use needlenose pliers. <A> Plywood is pretty hard for 18g nails in my experience. <S> The tip above about learning which way they curl is a good one, but really you have two choices, shorten the nail length or up the gauge a notch (not practical if you only have an 18g gun I know)... <A> Check the tip of your nail gun as well. <S> My finish nailer had a broken guide/tip (not sure what to call it) that caused many of my shots to go astray. <S> Much more predictable after I replace that part.
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You didn't ask, but a tip for those nasty curl outs: bend the end of the nail back and forth.
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radon mitigation fan running, but u-tube manometer shows no pressure differential We moved into this house in New Hampshire a year ago. Tons of radon off-gassing in this area due to granite rock substrate . Home inspection showed that the mitigation system was functioning properly, long-term test results below 2 pc/L. Recently I noticed that the manometer was showing equal readings on both sides of the u-tube. I don't recall what the level was during the home inspection. There are no marks I can see on the gage. When I turn off the breaker powering the fan, there is no change on the manometer. The fan is running; I climbed up and stuck my face it the exhaust; it smells wet and musty like basement air. It inflated a plastic shopping bag immediately. The sump pit looks to be well-sealed with silicone caulk. But I also see a 3" diameter hole through the concrete slab that is covered with a thin piece of cardboard. I can hear it whistling, and when I put my hand in the hole I can feel suction. Is there anyway for me to gain confidence in this radon mitigation system without hiring a contractor? <Q> Our u-tube shows a 2" WC. <S> Hence, 0 pressure difference. <S> This will obviously reduce the suction from the subsoil; at the same time, it will be pulling radon-contaminated air from the basement. <S> I have no idea what the net effect would be. <S> You could get a continuous radon monitor. <S> ( Amazon, $130 ) <S> Not cheap, but I find ours very reassuring. <S> FYI, a couple of things, from experience with our system. <S> (It doesn't seem like these apply to your problem, but just in case.) <S> We've had the outlet ice up in winter. <S> (Moist air from sump, cold pipe.) <S> When this happened, we showed 0 pressure. <S> We've had problems in summer, where a water bubble developed in the u-tube. <S> This affected the reading, but I don't remember how much. <S> At the time, we were drawing outside air into the basement, and getting a lot of condensation. <S> So, warm air, u-tube in contact with the cold pipe. <S> We now keep the cellar mostly closed in summer, and I spaced the tube out from the pipe. <A> Systems typically read around 1" WC. <S> The open hole that is whistling is curious. <S> How far from the exhaust pipe is this hole? <S> With that much air being pulled the WC should be higher than 1/4". <S> WC is the difference in column heights <S> not the reading on the positive scale. <S> Add the below zero value to the above zero value. <A> U tubes are quite simple devices. <S> Make sure the tube connection is not plugged. <S> The hole may be the problem, try plugging it then if the pressure Increases you have found the problem if there are no restrictions for air to enter the pressure will be the same on both sides and no difference in the reading.
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IMO, the hole is the problem: the pump is sucking air from the basement, making both sides of the tube at the same (basement) pressure.
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Automatic water pump for water tank I am really tired of turning on and off the water pump (a motor that moves water to the tank and the tank is located on the top of the house ) everyday. I am looking forward for a way to automate the water pump so it turns on and off itself according to the water level in the tank. Should I buy such a device or built my own ( I am a Computer Systems engineer so its easy for me to built it.) <Q> A simplification of @spicetraders answer: <S> Pump up switch <S> You can do this with a "pump up float switch", which operates at line voltage and thus avoids the need for a relay, separate power supply, etc. <S> These cost tens of dollars. <S> These often have a plug on the end so they can control a plug-in pump directly <S> (be sure to get one with the appropriate plug type, voltage and power rating for your pump), but they can also be hardwired (just like you would with a regular switch). <S> Essentially the float operates on a wire, and the only concern is to ensure there's nothing for it to get hung up on: <S> By adjusting the length of wire, you can adjust the on/off setpoints. <S> Low water alarm <S> We used to often install a second float near the bottom of the tank, with a very short distance, that activated a warning light or alarm to indicate "tank almost empty" indicator. <S> This would signal something was wrong with the main switch, pump, water supply, or simply that you were using water faster than the pump could keep up, and could take appropriate action. <A> Keeping it simple. <S> Get a water tank float switch which is available at many hardware, farm, or marine supply stores <S> hook it up <S> operate your pump motor. <S> Add a relay with appropriate contact value rated for the pump motors voltage and current. <S> A second float switch could be added to the circuit placed lower in the tank this would allow the upper switch to turn pump off and the lower to turn the pump on. <S> This keeps the pump from cycling every time a small bit of water is used. <S> Two float switch control. <A> If you want to make it really cool <S> you can do this (currently working on it) <S> 1 <S> x <S> Arduino <S> 1 <S> x Ultrasonic Sensor 1 <S> x Digital 4 digit <S> LED Display or LCD display <S> 1 x Relay <S> Basically you install Ultrasonic Sensor on the inside of the water container cover. <S> It measure the distance from the top to the level of the water. <S> This way you get the percentage of water that is currently in the container and display it on the 4 digit screen or LCD (if you later want to add some more fancy stuff). <S> Then you program Arduino to switch the relay (hooked to your water pump) when let's say the water level is below 20% and switch it off when reaches 100%.It so much fun to build one.
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A battery or low voltage transformer would provide power for the driving the relay on and off with float switch's open and closing.
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To rewire or not to rewire I got two electricians to come out and look at my 1939 house. I wanted to see if the wiring needed upgrading. One person opened up a receptacle and said I had cloth insulated wires and that I need to rewire the house...including bringing everything up to code. This includes adding outlets to walls that don't have it. It includes adding hardwired smoke and CO2 detectors. It also includes re-wiring all the light fixtures too. Cost ~14k Another contractor went up to the attic with me and saw old metal conduits and said that it was actually in good shape. He said that as long as the wires are inside the conduit it would be fine. He also saw that in the house there were some receptacles that are not grounded, have ground and neutral reversed, no neutral or ground... I asked him about cloth wire and he didn't seem to think that was an issue. As long as it is in conduit it was okay. Cost: ~$800 to make sure receptacles are grounded and properly wired. Who should I listen too? update picture of conduit This is the type of conduit in the attic. It may be BX (armored cable) as mentioned by by @ThreePhaseEel. Here's a picture in our kitchen. Old junction box and metal conduit. One goes to the floor the other goes to a hardwired garbage disposal. updated 9/16 The house has 3 bedrooms, one bathroom, a small dining room, a living room and a kitchen (total ~ 1400 sq/ft). Some outlets are actually grounded (at least that's what my tester tells me). Update 9/21/16 The outside of the wire actually feels a little tacky...almost rubber-like. <Q> Its fault current capability in the event of a ground fault is limited -- the armor in this early BX, while grounded, is not up to current standards for an EGC (equipment grounding conductor). <S> I would check the newer wiring to make sure that the EGCs are continuous to the main panel, and fix all the miswired outlets for that matter <S> (i.e. reversed wiring on outlets). <A> If you're going to have old wiring, it's pretty nice to have it in metallic BX. <S> I would wire separate grounds (as NEC 2014 now allows) and make sure every box is grounded, and make sure your BX grommets are tight, conducting and not corroded so the BX is relatively well connected to ground at each end where accessible. <S> At that point you're almost as good as EMT conduit, and that's pretty good for a domicile. <S> Add GFCI or combo breakers. <S> OK <S> yeah, so the wiring is old. <S> So what? <S> What's the failure mode here? <S> If you get a wire break, it'll arc inside all-metal containment (which will trip an AFCI if you use it) <S> otherwise it'll arc <S> until it snuffs (dead circuit) or it'll arc until it arcs to the shield, then it'll trip the GFCI. <S> If insulation fails and a hot or neutral contacts shield, it'll trip the GFCI. <S> You're golden. <A> If it were me, I'd leave it be; as long as everything was done with a reasonable amount of skill originally, it will be fine; if it's been modified a lot through the years, and there's visible issues (connections not in boxes, too many junctions, open wiring), that's another story. <S> If you want to spend money for peace of mind, spend it on arc fault sensing breakers, fire detection, things like that, and like others said, upgrade as you need if you're making other changes.
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You could replace the ungrounded outlets on the BX circuits with what are known as self-grounding outlets if you wanted some sort of ground connection on them instead of none whatsoever, but I'm not sure that's essential with modern levels of GFCI and AFCI protection. The old wiring in your house appears to be old-style AC (BX) with cloth insulated wires in a paper overall wrap under the spiral armor (no bonding tape).
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Will 300W lights be too much for a 200W timer box? I have six 50 watt Hampton Bay outdoor flood lights hooked up to a 200W Hampton Bay controller. The lights total 300W. The lights work as of now, but do I need to be concerned about any part of the system failing? Is the controller in jeopardy of having any dangerous meltdowns or will the lights just run a little dimmer? <Q> Is the controller in jeapordy of having any dangerous meltdowns or will the lights just run a little dimmer? <S> Yes. <S> By yes I mean without knowing exactly how the controller is built it is hard to say. <S> It is likely a mechanical relay or a solid state relay switching the lights on and off. <S> In that case, there is no limiting the power drawn, and the higher wattage can lead to premature failure of the controller's relay. <S> Solid State Relays will release the magic smoke. <S> It is unlikely to catastrophically fail (i.e. house fire) but it is possible. <S> If its rated for less than your load, you already know it won't end well . <S> Best case, the controller fails before it's standard life time. <S> Worst, you will be outside while the fire department is hosing down your house. <S> Or worse. <A> Add a relay. <S> Done. <S> What you want out of the controller is intelligence, not muscle. <S> Leave the muscle to a $12 relay. <A> Tungsten lamps including Halogen have a cold resistance 10 times lower than hot. <S> This means surge start current if at peak voltage will be 10x avg based on Watts/Volts. <S> Contacts which get hot, oxidize faster , which adds contact resistance , causes more heat and this further accelerates failure rates. <S> lifetime will be significantly reduced. <S> Failure may include melting receptacle plastic.
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Mechanical relays will weld and the relay contacts will fail.
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How to stop a wall from falling My Beloved Barn roof has almost gone and, without the money to repair it, I had to let it go. This has meant the walls have started to go and, as you can see from the picture, half the front part has gone. I now have to protect the road from debris if it goes. What is my best (i.e., cheapest) option to prevent this? I figured putting supports against it might work. If so, what is the best way to do that? Help is greatly appreciated. It's got to do by mid-Oct 2016. Only the front is in danger of affecting a public road. All other sides are far enough away. It is about 7 metres from the road and is around 5 metres to the roof (roughly). I own the land all around and up to the public road. <Q> I hate to tell you this, but your barn is toast. <S> Have it demolished before it kills some curious soul who wanders inside out of morbid fascination. <A> For the love of God, don't do anything from inside, to avoid collapsing on you. <S> I would get a 2x6 for the top bracing and a couple of 2x4's for the bracing. <S> Nail the bracing to the top bracing, away from the structure. <S> Use at least a 20-30 degree angle (eye it if needed) <S> Use 2 people and push it into place without getting close. <S> Once in position, drive some wooden stakes into the ground where the bracing is and then nail the stakes to the bracing. <S> If you are able (financially) I would even consider nailing some plywood to the wall side of the top bracing. <S> Please be safe as you do this. <A> For safety sake it should be demolished to the foundation and all the stones and any salvageable beams should be retained. <S> Then when you build it back from ground up <S> it will be a better structure. <S> Hopefully the foundation is good. <S> If not pour and tie in a slab foundation when you rebuild. <A> If all you're concerned about is protecting the road from rubble, putting up a barrier fence along the side if the road might be the safest and most reliable solution. <S> Replace the metal barricades with posts driven solidly into the ground with plywood between them, for example. <A> How much of the first part of the barn hit the road when it collapsed? <S> If not much, then it's reasonable to assume that not much of this part will hit the road either. <S> That aside, any structure as unsafe as this needs to be pulled down. <S> It may be on private land but that doesn't take into account how, erm, how can I put it; risk unaware some people are, especially children. <S> The bracing shown above will not work, the top brace, especially with plywood behind it will just slide upwards when the rafters splay and push the top of the wall over. <S> The only thing holding it all at the moment is the, what looks like a king type truss acting as a 'tie' on the remnants of the wall plates. <S> But it's as dangerous as all hell <S> and you'd need to have someone on the road in both directions during the 'operation' because for sure debris is going to go that far. <S> Personally I'd use a machine because it would work wonders on that site in less than a day and won't break the bank no matter where the place is.
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If you have absolutely no cash you could try pulling the truss down with a rope and grappling iron thrown from a 'safe' distance.
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Mount pergola post at an angle I want to build a pergola similar to the one below and was wondering what to use to connect the posts to the ground (notice how they are at an angle to the vertical) Also, what is the connector/connection type used for the top angle, so that there are no visible fasteners? <Q> At the ground, you're mostly concerned with keeping the posts located. <S> You don't want bumps to slide them around. <S> A simple steel pin or bolt in the concrete is adequate. <S> If you like, use a short stack of washers to keep the wood (mostly) out of contact with the concrete to improve longevity. <S> At the top, I'd use 1/2" lag screws, countersunk and piloted. <S> Two at each joint and penetrating 4-5" into the posts should do. <S> You'll want to cap or plug the bores to prevent water accumulation and rot. <S> All hardware should be stainless or galvanized, in case it's not obvious. <A> You'd want the tenon to be pushed to the interior in any case, as the end grain on the joist is weak. <S> But @isherwood <S> is right that mechanical fasteners are a strong alternative. <A> That pergola was built a few years ago by Jason Roberson of Charlottesville, VA. <S> I'd write to him and ask how it is holding up and what he might do differently. <S> https://builderbeast.com/new-construction/decks-and-built-ins/ <S> One of the photos shows that the top joint was pinned laterally. <S> See: <S> Note that the exifdata in most of the images date the photos as 2013, and don't show the lateral pin. <S> But the photo I cropped and show above is from 2015 per exif data. <S> The slots in the bottom of the posts look like mortises for 1/2" steel plates sunk into a cement footing. <S> You can see high res versions of his photos by starting the slide show, then right-click -> View Image (firefox), then edit the image url to delete the questionmark and subsequent characters. <S> For example: https://builderbeast.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_6069.jpg <A> This is Jason Roberson of Builderbeast . <S> I built this pergola out of Western Red Cedar a few years back. <S> At the top I mortised the post into the beam and pinned it from the side with a ledger lock, then plugged the hole. <S> Everything is cut at 11 degrees. <S> I made a jig for all cuts for consistency and calculated all the measurements as if they were rafters on a roof. <S> The building also was not completely straight, nothing is, so i left all the beams long and field cut them. <S> The connection hardware to the building is made by Simpson for hidden beam/joist fastening. <S> At the foot of the columns I had a custom Stainless steel 1/2" standoff made at the same 11 degrees. <S> It is slotted into the bottom of the column and has a 1.5" raised platform. <S> I wish i had taken a picture. <S> I designed it in Sketchup and gave it to a local fabricator. <S> I also made a hole jig for this so that i could set pins in three holes to secure it. <S> The standoff is bolted down to a concrete footer. <S> Hope this helps. <S> I'd be happy to answer any other questionsJason builderbeast@gmail.combuilderbeast.com
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The top could be a traditional mortise and tenon joint (possibly haunched for resistance to twist).
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House wiring and grounding. How do you retrofit an old house and ground it? A contractor looked at our house and told me that you can't fix a house (with old wiring) that has some outlets that are not grounded. He said that you can go on YouTube and search the internet and it will tell you that you can. He says that the only way to properly fix and ground everything is to do a whole house rewire. Is he correct? If, theoretically, you have an old house that has no ground whatsoever, can you run a grounding wire from the panel to all of the outlets to fix this? updated We have BX/AC wiring. And also apparently we have "...old-style AC (BX) with cloth insulated wires in a paper overall wrap under the spiral armor (no bonding tape)" Courtesy of @ThreePhaseEel. <Q> It's perfectly legal to run JUST a ground wire to retrofit old work. <S> You do not need to also pull all the conductors. <S> This is legal as of NEC 2014, so if your region hasn't adopted it yet, just wait. <S> People who say "might as well pull all new conductors" do not fully understand what the new rule permits. <S> Retrofit grounds do not need to follow the same path as the conductors. <S> What's more, you can borrow/share grounds from one circuit to another as long as they all terminate back at the same panel, and are of large enough size. <S> That is much easier than pulling all new homeruns! <S> For instance you can run a 10 AWG ground to a clothes dryer, and any nearby 20A outlet can simply ground to that, etc. <S> etc. <S> It is also both legal and safe to put GFCI protection on ungrounded receptacles or circuits. <S> GFCI protection is safer than a ground, although not as awesome for surge suppressors and radios. <A> You didn't state what you want. <S> It appears that you want grounded outlets in some places that do not have grounds. <S> If your house is very old you may have metallic tubes that contains the wires. <S> Romex always has a ground wire. <S> Before Romex wires had to be in a metallic tube. <S> The metallic tubes are connected to a ground rod outside your house. <S> You might want to look for the ground rod connection below the meter can outside your house. <A> He is not correct. <S> You can fish new 3 conductor wires yourself by attaching them to the old 2 conductor wires and pulling from the electrical panel. <S> Keep in mind, it won't be easy and in some cases you may have to open walls. <S> You can buy tools for fishing wires, just look on amazon. <S> If you can get by with just a few outlets grounded, say for your computer and appliances, then you can install a GFI outlet in the remaining ones. <S> That way, your home is safe. <S> Keep in mind, an ungrounded plug is both dangerous, and won't allow surge protectors to function correctly. <S> So while you wait to figure it all out, make sure any expensive electronics (TV, computer, sound systems, etc) are unplugged when not in use to prevetn damage from surges.
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If you open an ungrounded outlet and find a metal box with metal conduit connections, simply replace the outlet with a grounded outlet and connect the ground by a wire to the metal box.
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Transitioning run of pipe without reducing flow Starting with a collection basin in a small creek using a 1 1/2 inch pipe outlet. Going downhill 100 ft vertically can I transition to a 1 inch pipe without reducing flow. <Q> This is really quite simple, even if vaguely asked. <S> As @Daniel Griscom accurately stated in the first comment, " Almost certainly no " (so I'm making this a community wiki answer.) <S> The question asks if reducing the pipe size (at a particular point, but the particular point does not matter ) can be done without reducing flow , and the answer is "no" in basically all cases, though there are some cases where "not enough to matter" would come into play as an answer, but the question does not indicate any information leading to think that is a valid response. <S> In the general case, if there is flow in a pipe, and you reduce the size of the pipe, you increase the total dynamic head and reduce the flow. <S> Period. <S> More information might be helpful if there was a question about "how much would flow be reduced" but that's not the question. <A> It would depend on the length and total flow required. <S> If the length of the reduce pipe is long or you are close to the max flow it would reduce the pressure. <S> When no water is flowing the pressure will be the same on a 3" pipe as a 1/4" pipe when there is a flow or more than the small pipe can pass then the pressure will start to drop. <A> To many unknown variables;1 What type of pipe? <S> Pvc, PEX and galvanized all have different internal drag coefficients2. <S> How large is said cistern and location of pipe leading out is it bottom or halfway up? <S> 3. <S> What is the angle the pipe is running down slope are we talking a 10 degree slope or 60 degrees of slope or do you really mean strait up?4 Will you need a pressure regulator? <S> Or just planning to blow the seals on every faucet in the house?5. <S> Are there any bends or angles in the line?6. <S> Is the cistern pump of pressure assisted?Pictures, diagrams, maybe a pdf of the plot with elevations would all be good things for us to be able to even give any rational advice. <S> But good luck and we are always here to help.
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If the length of reduced pipe size is short and or you are not demanding more flow that can flow through the smaller pipe you may not see any difference.
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How to reinforce a curtain rod I have a ceiling that literally cannot be drilled into. An experienced handyman couldn't do it with high quality masonry bits. I'm wondering if there is any easy way to reinforce a curtain rod, so that it will span a longer distance without slouching. There isn't much room on either side. <Q> Or switch to a 1" rod. <A> A larger, round rod might let you put a dowel in the middle of it - but simply using a larger, round rod might itself be adequate, and simpler. <S> Those C shaped "rods" are terribly weak. <A> Use different materials. <S> McMaster-Carr has a catalog full of them. <S> Anything from aluminum to carbon fiber. <S> Even easier, you might try 3/4" or 1" EMT thinwall electrical conduit tubing. <S> (Actual dimensions 1-1/16 and 1-5/16 respectively). <S> They build geodesic domes with the stuff, their technique is to crush each end in a vise or press, and fasten to the flattened ends. <S> About $7 for a 10 foot stick. <S> I find heavier pipe isn't necessarily stiffer. <S> EMT is designed to span some distance, pipe is not.
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Best thought I've got is to put a valance across the top of that opening, and put a middle support from the valance to the rod.
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What gauge extension cord should I use for dehumidifier in basement? I run a Frigidaire 50-pint dehumidifier in my basement, which I am currently emptying the bucket once/twice every day since the power outlet is far away from the drain hole in the basement, and the drain hose that came with the dehumidifier is pretty short. But I am planning on getting an extension cord to use so I can move the device closer to the drain hole and use the drain hose so I can have it running without having to empty the bucket on a daily basis. At the time of purchase (of the dehumidifier), I remember the guy at the counter (can't remember if this was from Lowes' or Home Depot) recommending a 6-gauge extension cord (my memory is a bit shaky on the gauge), but I wasn't sure if I needed a cord back then, so I didn't get any. Now that I started researching, a 10-gauge cord seems to be considered heavy-duty, and I couldn't find anything longer than 6-foot with 6-gauge that's under 100 USD - so I wonder what gauge I heard him say. What gauge extension cord is generally recommended for this set up - considering the manufacturer seems to recommend not to use one at all? The dehumidifier is the only device that the extension cord will be used for, and I think I will need at least 15-foot cord. My power outlet is a US-standard 3-pins socket. <Q> Specifications shows 115V @ 4.8amp. <S> With that values it is likely he stated to get at least a 16gauge extension cord. <A> Technically, extension cords are not meant to be used as permanent wiring. <S> So the proper solution, would be to install a receptacle near where the device will be used. <S> Then plug the unit in to the receptacle, using the factory installed cord. <S> For a unit that draws less than 5 amperes, a 16 gauge cord should work fine. <S> However, depending on the length of the cord, you may want to step up to 14 AWG. <S> You'll want to make sure the cord is protected from damage, and visually inspect the cord from time to time. <S> If the cord shows any signs of wear, replace it. <A> Even if I make a short extension cord, I'd use 12/2wG. <S> I use a cord that is SOOW. <S> This is a cord that is oil and water resistant and is really durable. <S> It will more than carry the load of the dehumidifier. <S> Keep in mind electricity is nothing to be lax with. <S> You can buy something cheap and <S> very well get away with it <S> and then again you may not. <S> Buy a good heavy duty 15 amp male and female ends. <S> You will have to make your own most likely, or purchase this at Home Depot - it is a Tasco cord <S> 25 ft long, the in-store model number is 05-00105 and online model number is Internet #203533999 . <S> It's a 25 ft. <S> 12/3 <S> SJTW Outdoor Extension Cord with E-Zee Lock and Lighted End, Yellow with Blue Stripe. <A> First, the reason for caution on extension cords for devices that have motors in them is if you have too much voltage drop in the cord then you have inadequate voltage to properly run the motor properly which will cause heat build up and finally burning it up. <S> So you don't put a cheap low gauge extension cord like a 16 or 14 gauge. <S> Most house wiring is 12 gauge. <S> That would be my absolute minimum for an extension cord. <S> I have a pressure washer with a good size motor in it <S> and I am now shopping for a 10 Gauge extension cord. <S> If I knew the physical layup of your unit, you also may be able to set a drain hose to your floor drain using small tubing and set up a siphon system to automatically drain your unit.
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If you want to use an extension cord, do so at your own risk. I prefer to get at least 14gauge cords as the price is usually very near those for the 16gauge cords.
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Replacing a switch with something that is always on I recently installed a dusk to dawn light for the front porch and would like to keep the switch Always On at all times. This is more for the overzealous kind at home who want to switch everything off at night :) I am thinking of replacing the normal switch on the wall with a stationary plate and making the wires hardwired at all times. Is there a specific term for this type of plate? I've searched all over but could not find this in the store. <Q> If you're trying to cover the whole box <S> Blank plate Blank cover plate Blank wall plate Blank electrical box cover Blank switch cover <S> If you're trying to cover one slot of a multi-gang box <S> Blank insert <S> Blank switch insert <S> Blank toggle insert <S> Blank Decora insert <A> This is what I got for covering one slot in a multi-gang box. <S> Leviton 80706-W 2-Gang, <S> 1-Toggle 1-Blank Device Combination Wallplate, Standard Size (White) <S> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000U3BXBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <S> The guy at my hardware store said what I posted didn't exist! <S> The internet shall provide :). <S> I think my answer looks cleaner then a blank single insert, but if you have more then a 2 switch gang box, that might be the only option. <S> Update: I actually tried using a single blank with my double gang setup and it didn't work <S> , a double gang box is not 2x the size of a single gang box, so the single blank cover was too big. <S> Glad I found my solution! <S> Also, be careful to look, is your blank switch on the left or right! <A> Your switch guard is your best option . <S> Most run by switch to reset light and if you want it to stay on. <S> then you shut off it resets back to dust to dawn or motion. <A> I would recommend not fully removing the switch, as your lights are most likely on the same circuit as other lights. <S> So if you change your mind down the road, want to switch the dusk to dawn for a motion sensor, or are having issues with the light that require you to cut the power, there is a good chance you will also be in the dark somewhere else in your house. <S> For motion sensors, for example, they often have a function where you can flip the switch twice to make them stay on permanently, and flip it again to revert to motion sensing mode. <S> A good option, similar to the switch guard, but easier to flip if need be, would be a lock switch. <S> You'll see these in a lot of commercial settings. <S> It basically takes the spot of a regular switch, but it doesn't have a handle. <S> Instead, there is a little key that you insert if you need to flip the switch. <S> They look like this:
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If you just want to lock the switch in the ON/OFF position Switch guard Switch lockout Switch shield
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What breaker size and wire gauge should I use for a new garage outlet circuit? I would like to add some much-needed electrical outlets in my garage. As of right now it seems like the power that's going to the garage door opener and the garage light is also on the same line as some kitchen lights and some bedroom lights and Outlets. I feel like that circuit is already pushed to its maximum and would like to install a new circuit breaker and run a new line and pull the Garage items off of their old line and attach them onto a new one including my four new Outlets. I have pretty good electrical skills although that is not my profession. Just wondering what size breaker I need to install as well as is there a specific Gauge that I need to use from the breaker out. I'm using 14 2 on my Outlets that I'm adding. For reference I've moved my washer and dryer about 3 months ago and I rewired a new wire to the breaker myself so I have a pretty good idea of how to do it just not sure of the specific sizes to use. I have several open areas for new circuit breakers. <Q> You didn't mention what type of equipment you'll be using, nor did you mention if it was an attached or detached garage. <S> Without a bit more detail, it's not possible to give an accurate answer. <S> As a general guideline, you'd use 12 AWG copper conductors with a 20 ampere breaker, and 14 AWG copper conductors with a 15 ampere breaker. <S> Since the receptacles are in a garage, they'll have to be GFCI protected. <S> This protection can be provided by a GFCI receptacle, or a GFCI breaker. <S> If you're going to be using multiple pieces of equipment that draw a lot of power, you might want to consider running a 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit. <S> If you have any locations where you'd use multiple high draw items together (e.g. saw and dust collection), you could install a double gang box with two duplex receptacles. <S> Since it's a garage, I'd install a single 20 ampere circuit at the very least. <S> A 15 ampere circuit would be fine for lighting, but you'll find it quite limiting when/if you start plugging in tools/equipment. <A> Circuts with: 14 gauge wire = 15 amp 12 gauge wire = <S> 20 <S> amp 10 gauge wire = <S> 30 amp Be sure your circuit is GFCI protected. <A> If you carry through with #14, you'll be limited to a 15A breaker.
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Garage outlets are often wired with #12 so that you're able to use 20A breakers, which are more suitable for heavier power equipment. It's considered good practice (and is often required by code) to protect each outlet run with a GFCI outlet, or to protect the entire circuit with a GFCI breaker. Feeding each receptacle with a separate leg of the circuit, will allow you to use two high draw items without tripping the breaker.
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What material to use for replacing interior porch panels? I really have two questions, both pertaining to the enclosed porch on the front of my house. The first is, what material should I use to replace the panels that are starting to warp (bottom of the picture). I can't really tell if they're warped from pressure or moisture or both. But I can say I need new gutters, water will get in through the windows if I don't shut them. Also, if you look at the top of the picture, the frame is showing. You can see the 2x4 supports all around. It would be cool if I could cover the frame as well as the plywood wall with some thin material, just to give it a finished look. Any ideas on what material I should be looking at? I'm open to all possibilities. <Q> I've had great luck with expanded vinyl beadboard. <S> It comes in sheets that can be used as paneling, pieces cut to smaller sizes for wainscotting, and planks. <S> Some are reversible, with a bead on one side and a V groove on the other. <S> It is a little more expensive <S> that wood-based alternatives, but it is durable, lasts forever, and has better characteristics in virtually every respect. <S> It's weatherproof, moistureproof, and unaffected by UV. <S> It doesn't warp, rot, or split. <S> The material inhibits the growth of mold, mildew and bacteria. <S> It doesn't require painting but is paintable. <S> It's easy to work with, and looks like the wood product. <S> The rigidity is closer to thin wood boards than to paneling or plastic sheets. <S> I've used it for exposed exterior, protected exterior (screen porch ceiling), and inside use (wainscot). <S> The big trim manufactures like Azek sell it through building supply stores: https://azek.com/products/trim/beadboard-trim . <S> Stores like Home Depot and Lowes have in-house brands: http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-Fara-W96WP-12-sq-ft-White-Vinyl-Reversible-Interior-Exterior-Paneling-3-Piece-per-Pack-W96WP/205437105 <A> What we typically use is called FRP Panels (Fiber-Reinforced Plastic) <S> They are affordable, easy to install and maintain. <S> Mostly used in bathrooms where moisture is. <S> Can be found at most local hardware stores and do not require painting. <S> They come in many styles (even wood and tile appearance), colors, trims and can be applied/attached to wood.. <S> Here are links to Lowes and Home Depot . <A> If you don't like the look of the FRP that's suggested by norcal johnny, I'd simply use a 3/8" BCX plywood and paint it with a high quality exterior paint. <S> Prime according to the paint manufacturer's instructions. <S> Of course, any wood product is subject to warping and eventual degradation due to moisture. <S> I'd be sure you have your water problem resolved before doing this repair. <S> If your porch remains dry, plywood will last for decades.
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Expanded vinyl is the material used for most "permanent" house trim.
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Is it possible to add fluoride to my tap water? I live in a city without fluoridated drinking water. Do I have any options for adding fluoride to my tap water? I found countless results online for filters that can remove fluoride from tap water, but I would like to do the reverse and add fluoride to my water. I am asking the opposite of this question about removing fluoride. Ideally, I would be able to install some sort of faucet-mounted filter (similar to the image below) that could add safe levels of fluoride to my tap water. Presumably this device would need to be refilled or replaced once in a while. Unfortunately, I suspect that this type of device probably does not exist. Does a device like this exist? If not, do I have any other options for adding fluoride to my tap water? I rent an apartment and I am not permitted to make permanent changes to my plumbing. I would prefer options that involve minimal / reversible modifications such as a faucet mounted filter (i.e. solutions that won't upset landlord). I am aware of the alternative methods for getting fluoride, such as: Fluoride containing toothpaste Fluoride containing mouthwash Fluoride supplements However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods. <Q> I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but in an attempt to answer the question - according to my wife, a hygienist - your best bet is to use: <S> Fluoridated toothpaste Take a fluoride supplement <S> However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water <S> and I am not asking about these alternative methods. <S> Too much fluoride can harm you. <S> After researching this morning, I don't see a way to add it to actual tap water coming out of a faucet as your looking for. <S> Trying to calculate water pressure, flow rate, storage and release time of fluoride tablets would be rather difficult I think. <S> Similar to trying to add a multi vitamin to tap water stream. <S> To little and it'll be ineffective; to much and it would make you sick. <S> This article may help <S> According to the CDC, "if fluoride levels in your drinking water are lower than 0.7 mg/L, your child's dentist or pediatrician should evaluate whether your child could benefit from daily fluoride supplements." <S> The American Dental Association has a standard dosing schedule for fluoride supplements. <S> Fluoride can be given in liquid form or in tablets and is usually taken twice a day and can be mixed with juice, milk, water, or food. <S> In your conversation with your dentist, you may find that supplements are not necessary if your child drinks a lot of tap water at school or a day care, and if your toothpaste has fluoride and is used on a regular basis. <S> Ultimately, discuss this with your hygienist (it's more of the hygienist's responsibilty to answer this then the dentist's) and see if they can recommend a treatment plan or alternatives outside of the dental office. <A> As far as I can tell, no mechanism exists except for large scale water treatment plants, which are controlled to a strict 0.7 parts F to 1 million parts water. <S> There used to be supplement pills you could get for free at the pharmacy, many years ago, but now you have to get a medical prescription and pay. <A> Controlling the dose, 0.7 ppm <S> MINUS <S> any that is already in your water supply from well waters, could be difficult. <S> I would not chance it without real dilution equipment rather than a peristaltic pump or some kind of venturi. <S> Tygon can degrade and holes can clog. <S> Mass flow controllers ain't cheap <S> I've considered using simple, manual dilution using either pure USP grade (or NF) Sodium Fluoride and some standard volumes (or masses). <S> Alternatively starting from a commercial dilute solution (0.1M) is promising. <S> Each purchase can involve less of the compound to waste (4.2 grams in solution rather than 100 grams pure). <S> This whole idea needs some deference to shelf life of both the pure NaF and the solution as well as a slightly careful error analysis. <S> For the non quantitative among us, if I drink 4 liters of water tomorrow, I would have a dose of (0.7 ppm F- x 4000 g water <S> =) <S> 2.8 mg F-
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Have an open conversation with your dentist about how to get enough fluoride if you are drinking mostly bottled water, or if you use any alternative to tap water.
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Do new wire runs in an existing ceiling need to be stapled down? I've heard some people say that code requires wiring in the wall to be stapled to framing every so often (how often?), but when you are doing a remodel, is that necessary? I have a two story house, and would like to remove one standard dome light on the first floor ceiling and replace it with 6 recessed lights. There is about 12" of empty space between the floors, and it seems easy enough to run the wire from light to light without cutting any drywall except for the 4-5" holes required for the lights. However, there's no way I'd be able to staple the wiring down. It's just going to be loose in the ceiling, running through a small hole in the I joists every once in a while. They sell "remodel" light cans that are made specifically so you only have to cut a hole big enough for them to fit in, so this seems like a common job. What am I missing and how can I do this job in the most correct way? This is in Dallas, TX, single family residence. <Q> If you are not removing more drywall than needed for the new recessed lights, then no per 334.30(B)(1) <S> (assuming you are using NM cable). <S> There are similar clauses for other flexible cable assemblies (e.g. AC/MC). <S> However, if you are removing drywall as part of the remodel and have access to the studs, then you do need to secure and support according the remainder of 334.30 (or similar clauses for other cable types). <S> From NFPA-70:2014 (a.k.a. 2014 NEC): 334.30 Securing and Supporting Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) <S> of every outlet box. <S> junction box, cabinet, or fitting. <S> Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge. <S> Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway. <S> (A) <S> Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. <S> In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with 300.4 shall be considered to be supported and secured where such support does not exceed 1.4-m (4 1⁄2-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) <S> of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallicsheathed cable termination. <S> FPN: <S> See 314.17(C) for support where nonmetallic boxes are used <S> 334.30(B) <S> Unsupported Cables. <S> Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. <S> (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece > of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are > within an accessible ceiling <A> Electricians "fish" wires through existing homes by the thousands every day without stapling. <S> Use some common sense to prevent any future damage to the wiring by avoiding sharp or metallic objects or high-traffic areas. <A> In addition to good answers by @statuephemism and @isherwood, it's worth mentioning why you might want to staple and why in your case it probably doesn't matter. <S> First reason to staple is to keep wires out of the way so they don't get accidentally trapped when fitting new drywall on a ceiling for instance. <S> This isn't relevant if the ceiling is already in place. <S> Drilling through the floor above is unlikely to damage the cable since it will be lying on the ceiling below the joists, several inches lower down. <S> Drilling from below might touch the cable but since it's loose it will most likely just shift to one side or lift up when the bit touches it rather than being seriously damaged. <S> This needs to be considered even if you're fishing wires but many light fittings come with built in cable clamps that provide strain relief when tightened correctly.
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Second reason to staple is for strain relief so that if someone pulls hard on one end of the wire (e.g. trying to get a bit more slack or tripping over it elsewhere in the house) it doesn't loosen the connection at the other end and cause a short circuit or fire hazard. Staple if you can (every 4' in attics, within 12" of all boxes), and don't if you can't.
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Swap out 20amp breaker with a 15amp for kitchen circuit I currently have 14 gauge wire going into a 20 amp breaker that is used for the kitchen. I want to just swap out the 20 amp breaker for a 15 amp instead of replacing the wiring. Can I do that? I read somewhere that the kitchen can't have a 15 amp breaker. Need advice. Thanks. <Q> Not a code expert or have any quote here... <S> but I think code might require 20 amp circuits in kitchens, since it's expected to have a lot of extra power draw there. <S> However, what you have now is a fire safety issue. <S> Far better off with the 15 amp breaker than having wires too small on a 20 amp breaker. <S> The ideal solution would, of course, be to replace all the wires with 12 gauge. <A> Sounds like an option. <S> At least it will prevent the wires from overheating due to excessive current running through them. <S> Assuming this is the US, anything greater than approximately 1.5kW will cause the breaker to trip, in which case it will become a nuisance rather than a danger. <A> Yes, the National Electrical Code requires 20A circuits in a kitchen. <S> A circuit is a complete system consisting of an "overcurrent protection device" (fuse or breaker), the wire, and the devices (receptacles, light fixtures) at the other end of the wire. <S> The capacity of the circuit is considered to be the weakest link in the circuit. <S> In your case, that's the wire: 14 AWG wire is only rated for 15 amps. <S> Since the purpose of the code is safety , the requirement to install a 15A circuit breaker trumps the requirement to install a 20A circuit. <S> Changes to the electrical code do not imply that upgrades must immediately be installed. <S> However, your local jurisdiction may require correcting unsafe conditions or the building's certificate of occupancy may be revoked (a fancy way of saying "condemned"). <S> They may also require bringing all systems to modern codes if there is any remodeling conducted. <A> It depends on which outlets in the kitchen that the circuit serves. <S> You can have additional 15 <S> A circuits that do not service countertop surfaces in a kitchen as long as you have two 20 A small appliance branch circuits as required by 210.11(C) and 210.52(B) supplying all countertop surfaces. <S> I personally have two dedicated 15 A circuits serving my refrigerator and dishwasher. <S> Applicable clauses per NFPA-70:2014 (a.k.a. 2014 NEC): <S> 210.11 Branch Circuits Required. <S> (C) Dwelling Units. <S> (1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. <S> In addition to thenumber of branch circuits required by other parts of thissection, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuitsshall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by210.52(B). <S> ... <S> 210.52 <S> Dwelling Unit <S> Receptacle Outlets <S> (B) <S> Small Appliances. <S> (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. <S> In the kitchen,pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwellingunit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuitsrequired by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacleoutlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment. <S> Exception <S> No. <S> 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, shall bepermitted. <S> Exception <S> No. 2: <S> The receptacle outlet for refrigerationequipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branchcircuit rated 15 amperes or greater. <S> (2) <S> No Other Outlets. <S> The two ormore small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shallhave no other outlets. <S> Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solelyfor the electrical supply to and support of an electric clock in anyof the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). <S> Exception No. <S> 2: Receptaclesinstalled to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting ongas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.
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But code also requires that 14 AWG wire be protected by no larger than 15A circuit breaker or fuse. You need to check the total power of your kitchen appliances and whatever else is running off that breaker. Existing wiring may be left as-is.
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is it safe to drill into this wall? I'm going to install a small loft platform above the stairs in this picture. The most secure way would be to drill into the studs behind the paneling here, but i'm not sure about the wiring thats going into the walls here. Is it safe to drill into one or both of these walls? Do people have guesses as to where this wire is going and how to avoid it? Also: I think i'll be able to find studs in this wall by measuring 16" intervals from a nearby door frame (i'm also planning on getting a stud finder to check, though the wood paneling may obscure this somewhat) I could add legs to the platform that reach all the way to the steps below, but it seems like this wouldn't be as stable. The longer of the legs would be ~10' long. Thanks for the sanity check. Thoughts? <Q> If we get to guess, I'd say the wire is somewhere in the first stud bay on the right-hand wall (as you're going down the stairs). <S> A stud scanner with a 'deep scan' mode might give you a sense of where it is. <S> (And it might not extend above the conduit height.) <S> Look outside to make sure there's no coach light on the exterior wall above the door. <S> As for studs, you'll certainly find some in the corner. <S> I doubt you'd crowd the stairwell with a low platform, but be aware that residential code in the US usually requires at least 6'-8" headroom from the nose of a tread to the bottom of a platform. <A> First - find out where the electrical wire goes. <S> It appears to go inside, but without pictures of the inside, no one can say for sure. <S> Deal with this first. <S> 2nd - pull the siding where you intend to attach the platform to. <S> If plywood is behind it, pull that also. <S> Don't rely on a stud finder and never assume the studs are 16 inches on center. <S> Builders make mistakes or cut corners all the time. <S> 3rd - I'd build it like any other deck platform. <S> Cut and screw face boards into each wall and each stud. <S> Make sure these are 16 inches on center. <S> Look up local code for dimensions of floor joists needed for the weight you intend to put on it. <S> You might be able to get away with 2x6s <S> but if you intend to have a party on it, 2x8 or 2x10 might be better - though - the span appears to be < 4 feet wide so 2x6 <S> if I remember correctly might be sufficient. <S> Cover with plywood or other appropriate outdoor deck material. <S> Repair siding material around the new platform <A> The wood will be nailed to the studs. <S> A strong magnet will find the nails if your eyes can't manage that due to paint. <S> A line of nails indicates a stud. <S> This is far more reliable than most studfinders on a board wall. <S> If the wiring is to done to code, screws 2" long should be safe, so long as you stop drilling if you hit metal. <S> Wiring is supposed to be at least 1-1/2" from the face of the stud or protected by a steel plate. <S> Add the thickness of the boards over and 2" screws <S> should be safe. <S> That would put it at low odds of being run through the studs horizontally.
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Outlets and switches almost always have a stud on one side, so that might help with the measuring. Use joists hangers on the right wall and screw the floor joists into the face board on the left side. If someone installed wiring improperly, that might not be true, and that is an unknowable unknown. 16" is a good guess only when you've found others in an set. The wire in the conduit is 90+% likely running between studs to the light switch seen in the first picture.
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Is it safe to hang a 39lb projector screen from a drywall ceiling without using the joists? Is it safe to hang a 39lb projector screen from a drywall ceiling without using the joists? I'm having a debate with someone over how we should hang a projector from the ceiling. I want to place screws into the framing, however the joists are off center from the wall and would either require chains or that the projector screen just be off center. The person I'm debating with wants to use a steel toggle bolt anchor or some other method of hanging a heavy item in drywall without a joist. <Q> Absolutely not. <S> First, the drywall will almost certainly sag over time and leave a permanent bulge. <S> That's if (IF) the drywall doesn't pull off the screws holding it to the ceiling. <S> That is the risk of this scenario--not simply the projector coming down. <S> Here's how it could play out: You hang the projector, and all seems well. <S> Over time the natural vibration in the home causes the single drywall screw nearest the projector to work through the thin paper top layer of the drywall. <S> Because drywall is flexible, the sheet starts to sag. <S> Now the force is on more screws, but the initial damage is done. <S> If there are only a few nearby screws, the same thing happens there. <S> If you're lucky, this stops movement, but now your projector is hanging on an inverted drywall bubble, bouncing around with every step on the floor above. <S> It's not a pretty situation. <S> Use a decorative board of some sort to span between joists, and mount the projector to that. <A> 40 pounds dangling from a toggle bolt going through 1/2 inch of drywall? <S> I don't want to sit under it. <S> Don't forget it's not just the toggle bolts, it's also the screws holding the drywall up, and they are not meant to hold anything heavier than drywall. <S> However, you don't need chains, and it doesn't need to be off-center. <S> Get yourself some steel angle with slots in them - look in the shelving section, not the raw materials section. <S> Search for "slotted angle shelving" to get an idea of what you are looking for. <S> Buy something long enough to span several of the ceiling joists, not just 2. <S> They are available in a wide variety of sizes and finishes ranging from warehouse grey to polished chrome. <S> Attach 2 across the ceiling joists so that the projector can attach in the ideal position. <S> With suitable anchors into the ceiling they should easily handle hundreds of pounds, assuming the ceiling is also strong enough. <S> Regarding the ceiling joists (studs are in walls) there are several possibilities: big, solid pieces of wood like a 2x12 (likely in an older house). <S> Several long 1/4 inch lagscrews will be perfect here. <S> manufactured beam (houses made after the mid-1980s, small commercial buildings). <S> Problem as they are not meant to be cut or drilled into - damage the bottom edge and the beam can fail. <S> your "drywall ceiling" is actually a suspended ceiling with no substantial support. <S> Forget the whole idea. <S> your drywall ceiling is applied directly over (under?) <S> concrete. <S> Call someone who knows how and has the right tools. <S> A properly installed mount will hold a car up. <A> The short answer (with caveats) is yes, you can. <S> If you are not able to reliably answer the below details I wouldn't recommend it. <S> The full details: <S> Depending on how it's hung, read the specs of the anchors that you plan on using, there are definitely ones that will hold 39lbs in tension from a ceiling (a quick lookup had one with 50lbs, however I know some which do 100lbs+ per), but the assumptions are based on a standard, modern day construction. <S> To give example (again, packaging details will dictate actual requirements) <S> Structure (joist, furrings) is 16" o/c <S> Drywall is screwed every 12" along the structure <S> Drywall screws are set at least 3/4" in to the structure, screw head not piercing the paper <S> That none tries to hang from it <S> (but then the projector will probably get damaged anyways) <S> The closer your anchor is to the structure, the lower the requirements are. <S> Also, this assumes you're only using one anchor, <S> while it's not a linear calculation, four of the above mentioned anchors would easily hold 100lbs. <S> They will usually suggest a safety tolerance as well, so if it says 50lbs, it is generally suggested that the anchor can be used for a 25lb object. <A> This just seems like a really bad idea, honestly, no matter what the toggle bolts claim they can hold. <S> Let's be frank, I have a 40 lb dumbbell on the floor here, and I absolutely wouldn't want to hang that from a couple of toggle bolts in a 1/2" thick patty of paper-wrapped, compressed chalk powder and let anyone I care about sit under it.
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It would be much better to span the joists with something and tie into that.
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How risky is it to drain window wells into an interior drain tile system? During some recent heavy rains one of my window wells filled with water, which started coming into the basement through the deteriorating window. I have a drain tile system around the interior of the basement walls but no drain around the exterior. (The house was built in the 40s, and the interior drain tile is a recent enhancement.) In the two summers since it was installed, the sump pump has run very little. I've never actually noticed it running apart from when I test it, but the seepage I used to get on a regular basis from the bottom of the basement walls has stopped. I'm considering installing drains in the window wells to connect to the interior drain tile. I have misgivings about intentionally channeling all that water through the inside of my house to the sump pump, though. While adding the window well drains seems like the obvious solution to keep the window wells dry, how much worse would it make a sump pump failure? Would it make a failure more likely because of the increased activity? <Q> You're right on target with the questions you've asked. <S> You want to prevent water from collecting around the house. <S> Ideally, it's best to avoid water being there in the first place. <S> If you can't do that, that next best solution is to give it a place to go to get rid of it as quickly as possible. <S> That can be accomplished on the exterior or the interior. <S> If you put in a system to get rid of water, the benefit will come from letting it get rid of as much problem water as you can get into it. <S> To drain the window wells, don't just drill holes and let the water run down the wall into the floor drain. <S> Stick <S> a pipe through the wall with the wall opening sealed around the pipe, and direct the water into the drain while keeping it contained. <S> Use some form of screen or filter on the inlet so the pipe doesn't get clogged with debris. <S> As you noted, once the basement is no longer sealed, water can migrate in as well as drain out. <S> The interior drain, itself, is a potential path, and any other exterior water you provide with a path adds to it. <S> Sump pumps don't last forever, so have a second, backup pump. <S> Power can go out in a storm, which is the likely time when water will be feeding the system. <S> So use some form of battery backup or make one of the pumps battery- or dual-powered and include a provision for keeping the battery charged and tested. <S> Or have the pumps on a backup generator. <A> It is very common for exterior drainage tiles to be connected to an interior sump. <S> Here it is a requirement to provide drainage from window wells to the drainage tiles. <S> Where those cannot be gravity routed to daylight, there are routed to a sump pit. <S> Perfectly acceptable solution to your problem if your local code allows it. <A> We did something similar in a car wash we built. <S> The car wash has a lube center for oil changes. <S> The oil changing station is on the street level and the area where mechanics perform the work is in the pit, below ground (similar to where a basement would be) <S> The problem was when it rains there was nowhere to drain the water around the lube stations. <S> So we had sloped the grade into a drain that went into the pit where the sump pump was. <S> This met code and resolved the drainage problem <S> and I have never heard of any problem since then. <S> That was 7 years ago. <A> Wouldn't it be cheaper and more efficientjust to buy some window well covers and just deflect the water away from the home? <A> I've been thinking of this solution too. <S> The water table rises up from below grade and gets to the height of the window, not from rain falling in. <S> You only need to have the well drain just a bit lower than the window to stop the well from over flowing in emergency situations. <S> This would limit how much water your allowing into the interior only to prevent flooding into the window itself. <S> There may be some water left in the well, but will dissipate when the water table drops.
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It is critical to have a reliable and redundant system to get rid of the water or your basement can become the collection system.
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Are these my ground wires? So I'm replacing a ceiling fixture and my new fixture has a ground wire but the old one didn't. My outlet box has two places where wires come in - one with a black, white, and bare and the other with a black, red, white and bare. The bare wires are both attached to screws to the outlet box - I'm suspecting that these are my ground wires, but if they are I have no idea how to attach the ground wire for my fixture, both because the existing wires are so short and there are two ground wires in the outlet box but only one on the fixture. I've added a (not great) photo of my outlet box in case that helps. The fixture's mounting bracket does have a green ground screw on it as well. <Q> To be installed properly, there should be a "pigtail" from under one of the screws in the back of the box connected with a wire nut to the two ground wires AND the ground wire from your light fixture. <S> That's a total of four wires in a wire nut. <S> The one on the left is horribly short. <S> The one on the right is even shorter. <S> Since you may be unable to connect them properly, you can try leaving the one on the right as is. <S> There may be enough slack on the one on the right that you can pigtail it as described above (three wires in a wire nut). <S> Never wrap more than one wire under a screw. <S> It's nearly impossible to get a solidly reliable connection with more than one wire under a screw, unless it's the type that has a clamping plate and is designed for more than one wire, but in that case you're not wrapping the wire around the screw. <S> If you find it impossible to use a wire nut because the wires are so short, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get some push-in connectors. <S> They're similar to wire nuts, except you push the wires into holes (one wire per hole) like into the back of an outlet. <S> (I don't like the "backstab" connections on outlets, and I'm suspicious of these connectors, but in this situation it may be the best option.) <A> The best way to do this is to get yourself a pair of short "pigtail" leads and nut them together with the two existing grounds. <S> Connect one pigtail to the box and the other to your fixture. <S> Be sure to use appropriate wire and a suitable nut. <A> The bare wires are the grounds, yes. <S> In order to ground your fixture, you could remove the ground from under the screw in the top-left of the box. <S> Wire nut it together with the ground wire from the fixture and a short (3") piece of bare copper wire (a "pigtail"). <S> Screw the end of that short piece of bare wire under the screw. <S> Make sure to use the appropriate sized wire nut <S> (think you would want a red one here, which would work with #14 or #12 wires)
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The two bare wires are your ground wires, but they are not installed properly according to current codes (even though as long as the screws remain tight it should provide sufficient fault protection).
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What is this white powder on my foundation? Can anyone tell me what this white powder might be? I was ripping up the carpet from my basement when I saw this underneath the padding and on the cement foundation. It's white and cakey. I at first thought I would just vacuum it up, so I took a wire brush and started rubbing it to break it up into a fine powder so it could be vacuumed. I did that to a portion of it, then I noticed that there is discoloration in the cement underneath the white substance. It seems that this white powder was probably placed there on purpose to cover up something in the cement. I don't see evidence of a crack there, nor is there cracking anywhere else in the foundation. Could it be mold related? I'm a little nervous to do much else with it until I know what it is. I don't want to undo whatever was done when it was put down. <Q> Looks like effloresence to me, which itself is not harmful, but possibly a symptom, mainly of water movement; I would check perimeter walls for further signs of water infiltration, and make sure water movement outside is properly being handled, i.e. gutters, grading. <A> Common in cementitious materials where water is present. <S> You can wash it away with mild HCL solution but the stains will remain. <S> Not much to worry about here. <S> On structural masonry over long periods of time there might be a concern as it could be indicative of structural integrity problem. <A> Efflorescence, salts... you'll also see it on brick faces. <S> Rookie concrete workers. <S> Was your basement floor poured in winter? <S> They add more "chemicals" into the mix, keep it from freezing, keep it flowing, not hardening as fast. <S> Those "salts" leach up through the concrete. <S> It is what makes an epoxy floor POP up! <S> Fellows wit experience, can mix a batch, according to the weather, temp, humidity. <S> New guys just follow the sign on the wall. <S> good luck!
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Efflorescence, salts rising to the surface due to presence of moisture.
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Electric Lawnmower - Is The Problem With the Mower or the Extension Cord? I have an electric lawnmower that's about 8 years old. I use a 100-foot extension cord with it that's probably 20 years old. While mowing the other day, I smelled a faint electrical smell. When I finished, I noticed that one of the holes on the end of the extension cord where it plugs into the mower was black and slightly melted (see photo). The corresponding prong on the mower was a bit blackened as well (see photo, though it's kind of hard to see). Melted extension cord: Lawnmower plug: I assume that either the mower or the extension cord has a major problem. My main question is which one? Is there an easy way to tell? Is one inherently more likely than the other? Is there some kind of test I could run that wouldn't be dangerous to whatever else I was plugging in? Obviously, I'd rather replace the extension cord than the mower, but I don't want to get a brand new extension cord and have that melt too, the first time I use it. Thanks again for your help! <Q> The connector is worn and/or damaged. <S> The best solution is to replace both connectors (male and female). <S> This is easy for the extension cord but you may need to order a spare-part for the lawnmower connector. <S> As an alternative, You could probably hard-wire a line connector rated for outdoor use (wet conditions) but you'd need to open up the lawnmower connector and make modifications to remove the existing connector and provide strain relief for the new short cable to the line-connector. <S> Typical outdoor-rated unearthed line-connector for (double-insulated) lawnmowers <S> etc used in the UK. <S> There will be equivalents for US and other countries. <A> This is a design flaw in the mower -- the use of a chassis mounted inlet here does not provide effective strain relief for the connection, resulting in the extension cord working loose, arcing, and eventually burning as you see here. <S> The better solution is to take out the chassis mount inlet and replace it with a plug attached to a short length of flexible cord and properly strain relieved both at the plug and where it enters the chassis (you'll need something like a 14/2 SOOW cord and a field-fitted NEMA 5-15P for this, as well as appropriate strain relief parts). <A> You can replace the end of the extension cord. <S> The picture of the mower is blurry <S> so it's hard to see the condition of the prong; you may be able to clean it up without having to do major surgery on the mower. <S> Tension on the cord wiggles the connection and tries to pull it apart; it may even loosen the contact pressure inside the extension cord. <S> Any time it makes a momentary break, you get arcing. <S> Once the arcing pits the contacts, you get a worse connection and it exacerbates the problem. <S> Once you get the electrical connection fixed, use a provision to secure the cord. <S> If there is no cord lock on the mower, knot the cord to the handle so that there is a little slack on the connection, and any tugging on the cord won't affect the connection. <A> I find molded extension cords regularly fail at this location (the female end) , I replace the cord cap with a quality industrial end. <S> I believe after years of use the molded ends get loose and start arcing damaging both the male and female connectors. <S> I have found it more often on cords that are overloaded but have found the same problems on 12 gauge cords that really could not be overloaded because they had standard 15 amp connectors. <S> And we're in use with only 1 tool connected. <S> The female end failures are more common in my experiance. <S> Since I really can't see the damage on the male end it may be possible to continue using the male if it is intact with no missing metal. <S> The female loosens and causes the arcs where the males are usually 2 solid layers folded together so if the metal is ok clean it up put a new female end on the cord and get back to mowing.
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This problem generally happens because the extension cord isn't secured in place.
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How to fix side of bathroom vanity damaged by water My kids use the bath tub and water spills over almost everyday. I noticed that the bottom part of the side of the vanity is damaged with water. The water at times, goes beneath and I find the nearby wood affected mildly. My question is .. how do I fix this ? And protect this from further damage ? Do I scrape and then paint ? Or cover with wood ? Replacing the vanity is fine with me. But looks like it comes with a layer on top which extends all the way. I did not find similar stuff on sale. Overall the vanity is in decent condition and I would like to keep it, instead of buying a new one. I really appreciate you reading this. Thank you once again. <Q> This looks like birch faced plywood not cheap. <S> You may be able to lightly sand the surface to remove much of the discoloration. <S> I would paint it after cleaning it up and use a latex calking at the floor to seal it so water will not wick up the wood. <S> don't get two aggressive with the sanding because this is a very thin veneer. <A> personally, you look like you need a new bathroom. <S> the tiles and wall are showing their age and the vanity is dated. <S> i am not talking about its fashionability, but its ability to resist water and fungal infiltration. <S> once the grout lets stuff in, and the paint lets stuff through, and the mold starts, its just an uphill battle - like keeping an old clunker car on the road. <S> as to the vanity, its going to cost you more to repair it (in labour) than to just replace it. <S> just make sure you get one with legs to lift it up off of the floor and make sure you do something at the tub like glass doors or a partition glass panel to stop the water getting out. <S> you should also paint your baseboards with 10 coats of good quality paint and caulk the tile to baseboard transition. <S> i would suspect that water is damaging much more than you can see all around the wall/floor junction. <S> you also have mold starting, but its pretty mild so far. <S> you need to liberally apply bleach to all surfaces asap to kill it and stop it from spreading and doing more damage. <A> Install vanity, caulk bottom all away around, wrap vinyl baseboard all away around bottom of vanity, and install inexpensive ceramic tile w/grout on both sides of vanity. <A> As regards mold, it depends on your constraints. <S> If you need the job done quickly there are mold sprays; which are usually something with a lot of sodium hypochlorite. <S> If you have bleach you can use that, but will probably need to go over it a few times. <S> If you're leery of using bleach where your kids spend time, a bottle of hydrogen peroxide will do. <S> For my own bath, I created a high lip from plastic trim sealed down with caulk to stop better part of the water from sloshing over the edge.
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Investing in a small (mini) dehumidifier is a great idea for any room in your house, especially a bathroom, this should take care of any mold formation!
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Sink clogged completely when using NaOH drain cleaner I used a drain cleaner containing sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to unclog it. I followed the drain cleaner's instructions to the letter: pour the NaOH into the pipe entrance. pour hot water. As soon as I started pouring hot water, it started pooling. No water would pass through. The sink was completely clogged now, because the NaOH formed a solid "bathtub plug" inside the pipe! (I could see solid white NaOH) Pouring more water had no effect, so I carefully threw citric acid grains (a weak acid, contained in lemons), hoping the acid would react with the base (NaOH). Initially, the acid reacted with the NaOH (I could see bubbles coming out), but then it stopped completely. WARNING : Acid and NaOH reactions can be very violent . In my case there was enough water to act as a heat-sink preventing boiling and splashing, and I was adding acid slowly. I can't emphasize enough how dangerous NaOH is. Use full face protection and gloves, otherwise you could go blind or get severe skin burns . I don't want to open the pipes (if flow is restored it could splash NaOH solution on me). Is there any other way to safely unclog the NaOH? What exactly happened? Why did NaOH block the pipe completely, and why did the acid become ineffective after a while? Sidenote on why I did it: My partially clogged kitchen sink would allow small amounts of water to pass through the pipe. I've been using a plunger when it was getting clogged (snake was ineffective). A plumber had told me in the past, that the problem is deep inside the wall (about 3 meters into the pipe) and is very hard to fix. He also suggested using NaOH a couple of times a year to keep it clean. Top view and side view respectively: <Q> How to unclog it !!! <S> WARNING !!! <S> Put on gloves, and full face protection gear! <S> NaOH can cause severe burns or <S> even permanently blind you. <S> You wouldn't want even a droplet on your eyes, since (unlike your skin) they have no protection at all. <S> (Before trying my method below, give a try to the other suggestion by @Jaroslav Voller . <S> Try not to pierce the pipe if you use a screwdriver, though.) <S> Take 2-3 straws and insert each one into the holes. <S> No I'm not joking. <S> Then pour hot water through them using your tap. <S> The hotter the water the more soluble NaOH and the salts you created, will be. <S> Which will make the whole process faster. <S> Just let the water run until it is unclogged. <S> Be careful with this water since it contains large amounts of NaOH and is corrosive. <S> This will remove the NaOH layer, but your initial problem will probably not be solved so you will have to try using the drain cleaner again, but this time use less NaOH. <S> Why it happened <S> The grid at the entrance of the pipe reduces water flow. <S> Pouring water doesn't work because the water already present, along with the grid, reduces the flow above the NaOH layer, meaning it will dissolve very slowly or perhaps not at all. <S> When you started throwing the citric acid, it dissolved in the water and reacted with the NaOH, increasing the temperature locally and also creating a sort of "salt", sodium citrate . <S> Initially it was soluble but as soon as it's concentration increased and the temperature dropped <S> , it's solubility dropped as well, forming a layer of salt (blue color in the figure below), which actually separated your acid and base. <S> This is why they stopped reacting. <S> Using the straws to guide the water flow directly on those layers will do the trick. <S> The layers will be dissolved within a few minutes. <S> Note: <S> Colors in the figures do not represent the actual colors of the substances used. <A> I just faced the same problem recently - a NaOH plug. <S> I solved it using citric acid. <S> Instead of using straws, I used a piece of hard wire <S> and I was hitting the hard NaOH clog mechanically. <S> After each stroke, a reaction on NaOH and citric acid was apparent (boiling like effect, bubbles coming out of the sink). <S> After a couple of minutes, the clog had dissolved and the sink was completely cleared. <S> I was a bit afraid of an intense exothermic reaction but the plastic did not melt. <A> I just cleared an extremely difficult NaOH blockage in my bathroom sink. <S> While I could see there was a reaction between the NaOH and the toilet descaler <S> I was using it wasn't enough. <S> Then I had an idea that worked in 60 seconds! <S> I got the steam generator I use for general cleaning and put the nozzle right on the end of the straw <S> (It was a heavy Ikea reusable straw) and injected the steam direct down the straw onto the blockage. <S> At first there was rumbling noises then in about a minute or so a satisfying gurgle and the sink completely drained. <S> It's good as new <S> and I think that drain has never been cleaner. <S> Naturally you want your face, torso, hands, arms etc protected <S> but it worked really well, so <S> I guess heat really is your friend for getting through that salt layer. <A> I had this same problem. <S> I tried to de-clog my shower drain by pouring several capfuls of caustic soda (NaOH) down the drain. <S> I was going to leave it for 30min and then flush it, but I forgot about it and accidentally left it overnight. <S> The next morning the NaOH has formed a solid white plug at the top of the drain. <S> I tried to jab through it with a hammer and kitchen knife, but no luck. <S> Then I read the answers above and decided to boil a full kettle of water and pour it over the NaOH directly/slowly. <S> After about 20 seconds the NaOH started to dissolve and bubble <S> and then it completely drained away and the pipe is fully clear now. <S> So just carefully, slowly pour boiling water onto it... <S> problem solved for me! <A> I had this happen to me the other day. <S> Luckily it clogged right at the top of the pipe, and i used one of my flexible 1/8" spade bit to drill a hole through it. <S> With the hole there the LYE clog dissolved in a few seconds running hot water. <S> It still didn't fix the original clog, so down to the crawl space I go!
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My assumption is that the excessive amount of NaOH you used, along with the reduced water flow right after, caused the NaOH to boil instantly the small amount of water that was already present and formed the solid NaOH layer which you described. Gallons of water went in, and I spent 20 minutes working at it with the straw.
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What is this cable hanging against the outer wall? We moved into our house within the past year. In the front of the house, underneath the staircase leading up to the front door, is a tied off cable that looks like this. Does anyone know what kind of cable it is or what purpose it might serve? I attempted to point a non-contact voltage tester at the ends of the cable, but got nothing from it... but then again, it might be so shielded that nothing would happen. <Q> Looks like Landscape wire . <S> It's low voltage cable (150 volts), so there's likely a transformer and/or control box at the other end. <S> Though the previous owners may have taken all the landscape lighting (leaving the rolled up cable), and possibly the control module as well. <S> So you might just find where the control module used to be. <A> It looks like lampcord. <S> I could have been used to power outdoor lights. <S> These often use lampcord as their feed. <S> They are usually directly wired rahter than plugged into an outlet type connector. <S> If they were removed, the wire may have been cut rather than more carefully removed. <S> The risk here is that, if it powered lights, it may be controlled by a switch. <S> If so, the line is dead now, but could be repowered by turning that switch on. <S> Speakers are also usually powered by lampcord. <S> This could have been an outdoor speaker and the wire was cut rather than disconnecting it when it was removed. <S> Checking with a tester is a good move. <S> If you got no reading when the tester was held at the cut end probably means it is not hot (at least not line voltage hot). <S> Also look for switches whose use is unknown. <A> As @MisterTea already mentioned in a comment, old telephone "drop wire" ( <S> the outside wire from pole to house) is exactly what this looks like to me. <S> Are you new-fangled enough that you don't have a landline telephone service to the house? <S> Your house pre-dates that trend.
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It could have been an extension cord for some device, although an outlet end would usually be left rather than cutting it off to a plain wire. Your best bet is to try to trace it back to a source. Get a sense of where it enters the building and see if there is any indication of it on the inside of the house.
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How can I preserve paint and brushes between projects? I'm painting up a project, where I don't have the space to place all the pieces in the open and paint them all at once. So it's prime a piece (wait X hours) lightly sand it spackle/fill spots topcoat one (wait) topcoat two (wait) install it repeat This procedure could easily take a couple of weeks. I'm using primarily short (4"/6") rollers and paint brushes for the project. I'm using water borne paint and primer, which cleans up with soap and water. My questions revolve around the concept of how do you manage the paint? One way is to open paint can, stir it carefully, dip brush into can, and continue. The would get messy and would risk contaminating the paint. I gotta believe moving to a smaller easily sealable container would be MUCH easier. Problem is, what kind of container works best here? Every time I've used an old jar with screw on top as a paint storage container, it takes about three or four times before the lid is permanently sealed to the container because of dried paint. Perhaps an old canning style jar would work? Perhaps the new style inexpensive Tupperware containers? I'm not exactly sure what these are called. They appear to be vacuum formed containers that look like Tupperware stuff, but its the kind of thing you'd use four times then recycle. Besides Tupperware, I think Rubbermaid and other manufacturers have their own versions of these... The thought is you'd use these two or three times, toss out as required. What do you guys do? Additionally, how do you pour from a large paint can into a smaller container without making a total mess? <Q> I generally pour my paint into a smaller paint pail , like this: and then brush from there. <S> They make liners for those pails, although I find they clean up relatively easy (most have a non-stick coating of sorts). <S> They make pour spouts to making pouring easier, as well: <S> Depending on the size of the pieces and how many you can paint at once, I may just dip the brush right in the paint bucket, though. <S> Get fairly high quality brushes, and be mindful of dirt and dust, and contamination isn't usually a big concern. <S> When I'm done, I pour the remaining paint back into the big paint can. <S> As for storage, put the brushes, roller covers, and paint tray liners in a plastic zip-top bag(s), and put the bag(s) in the fridge. <S> It will keep the brushes in good enough shape overnight, or over a few nights. <S> You could give them a quick rinse before using. <S> You'll probably want to wash them out after a couple of days, and <S> definitely when switching colors / after priming. <S> Note that linked products are examples only, and do not represent any endorsement. <A> It depends on the kind of paint you are using. <S> If an oil base a glass jar with a seal is best but the brush needs to be in thinner or mineral spirits. <S> I have some very expensive brushes that have lasted for quite a few different applications over months with this method the brushes stay soft and don't clump the Bristles together like cleaning and letting them dry out <S> (no mater how much you clean them). <S> Both cases depend on the brush not being exposed to air, under water or solvent. <S> When I need to use the brush again I shake any excess liquid from the brush and start painting again. <A> I know the professionals would cringe at this, but as a homeowner with big-box-store-quality brushes working entirely with latex paint, I'm a big believer in plastic wrap. <S> When I'm not going to be working for more than a couple of hours, I wrap the still-wet brush, using something like normal kitchen Glad Wrap. <S> I make sure I've squeezed the air out of the packet, and I wrap it well. <S> Then I take a length of the same plastic and gently lay it atop the top of the paint in the can, carefully pressing it down onto the surface and forcing the trapped air out the sides. <S> Thus there is no air in contact with paint either on the brush or in the can. <S> Latex paint will stay wet this way for days, as long as you don't unwrap the brush or slosh the can.
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If the paint is water based I have had some luck with plastic containers after cleaning the brushes and putting a block on top of them so they stay under water.
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Can filling up a 75 gallon water heater tank without opening a faucet cause damage? Had a bit of a snafu at home today that resulted in an empty 75 gallon tank getting refilled without opening a faucet. Faucet was opened only after the tank was full, which resulted in a long burst of pressurized air coming out. I'm worried this pressurized air may have caused damage to the pipes, fittings or fixtures. Could this be the case? These are copper pipes, some 3/4'', some 1/2'', in a 4,500 sq ft home. UPDATE: For what it's worth, few weeks have passed and no leaks to be seen. <Q> A gallon of water is roughly 213 cubic inches. <S> Assuming that you filled the tank completely (which is unlikely - see below), you would have displaced 213 * 75, or 15,975 cubic inches of air inside your plumbing. <S> One atmosphere of pressure (14.7 psi) is defined as the pressure exerted by a 33.8 ft column of water. <S> Assuming that all of the pipe in question is 3/4", you would have increased the pressure by 14.7 psi if the total pipe length was 472 feet. <S> But what actually happened <S> is that the tank stopped filling when the air pressure reached equilibrium with the water pressure. <S> The water that you filled the tank with was coming in at whatever pressure that your household water supply has (typically this is somewhere around 40psi). <S> When the total pressure in the plumbing system reaches 40psi, the tank simply stops filling because there isn't a pressure differential. <S> So basically, once the air you were displacing reached the pressure of your water supply, it would have simply stopped compressing it because the tank wouldn't be filling any more. <A> The pressure of the air trapped in the system is exactly the same as the water pressure. <S> There is no area for concern pressure-wise. <S> However, air is much less dense than water, so these problems could occur: <S> tiny leaks which were clogged by debris might be cleared (unclogged) by air and might introduce a new drip water surge hammering might shake pipes and loosen joints, remove scale and oxidation from pipes and cause a valve to not work as well as before (debris in the washer seal) having air in the pipe tends to accelerate rust and corrosion (whereas water has much less oxygen in it and tends to slow oxidation) <A> The concern is actually about the top heating element burning out if you forget to purge the air before energizing the circuit. <S> Be wary of being distracted by an impatient family in haste to use hot water again.
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I wouldn't worry about it at all.
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Can I mount 3 blades on a 5 blade ceiling fan? In my son's bedroom I currently have a standard five-blade ceiling fan. We are currently changing the decorating motif in his room to "airplanes". I thought it would be really cool to change the ceiling fan to look like a propeller. I have found a vintage three-blade imitation propeller that will fit on the current brackets. The new blades will be roughly the same length and weight as the old ones, and I will mount them equally spaced (not just using three of the five original mounts), so I do not expect any issue there. So, my only concern would come from having "not factory standard". Will it be safe to only mount the 3 blades on the 5 blade system? <Q> No, it will not be OK. <S> A fan blade system is meant to be balanced. <S> Even when all of the original equipment blades are in place, minor imbalances can occur and need to be corrected with weights from a balance kit. <S> Failure to have a balanced fan causes wobble. <S> If the wobble is bad enough, it can damage the motor, loosen the fan in its mounting and even cause mounting failure. <S> The five existing blades are evenly spaced. <S> You can get replacement blades, but they have to be the same number as the originals. <S> This is a very significant imbalance and could lead to catastrophe. <S> If there were a way to mount the blades evenly around the perimeter, it might work, but that would require a whole new and custom crafted bracket system. <S> SUPPLEMENT: <S> The Questioner has added information, now indicating he intends to mount the blades evenly spaced. <S> If that is achieved, balance should not be an issue. <S> Care must be taken to ensure that the adapter used to mount is also balanced around the perimeter (an added bracket on only one side would still create imbalance). <A> No, it's not safe, but consider that the Supermarine Spitfire XIV had a 5-blade propellor. <S> I'd recommend getting some paint out and making the exising blades look like a five-blade prop. <A> This will create more drag than normal ceiling fan blades. <S> OTOH, there will only be three blades rather than five, so it should balance out. <S> I would not attempt to use a four-blade propeller. <A> Yes, it should be safe but just to make sure, I would call a contractor to come ant take a look at it as you would void the warranty and could potentially mess up/strain the motor as a result of your new blades not moving as much air as the old ones. <A> Try it! <S> If it looks like spinning wheel of doom, put the original 5 back on. <S> Don't have your kid underneath it when you try it. <S> Watch it <S> the first time you turn it on and if it starts wobbling too bad, turn it off. <S> If you react somewhat quick, you probably won't damage the mounting or your ceiling. <S> Try it on all three different speeds and reversed ). <S> If it is wobbling a lot, something is wrong. <S> If it is only wobbling a little, go out, pick up a fan balancing kit, and pat yourself on the back for being a great dad! <S> In the future, maybe occasionally wiggle the blades to make sure your bolts are holding. <S> Vibration tends to slowly work things loose.
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If you mount on only three of the five brackets, two blades will be next to each other and one will be opposite. The blades of a three-blade propeller, assuming it's actually an airplane propeller, will have a significantly greater angle of attack than the blades of a normal ceiling fan.
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Where to install a carbon monoxide detector when the boiler is in a closet? I have a boiler in my kitchen closet. The installation instructions for my carbon monoxide detector say the detector should be: at a horizontal distance of between 1m and 3m from the potential source So it should be outside the closet. on the same side of the partition as the potential source So it should be inside the closet, assuming the closet door counts as a partition. What should I do? <Q> I'll start by saying that I'm a big fan of following instructions. <S> Let's assume for the sake of argument that you don't spend an inordinate amount of time in the closet with the boiler and the door closed. <S> So risk of CO poisoning in there is pretty slim. <S> Let's also assume that you spend time in the living space. <A> I'd say put it inside the closet. <S> If you get false alarms, consider moving it. <S> Else, it's the best place to alert you. <S> Chances are if the boiler is working well, you'll never hear a peep from the detector. <S> Hopefully you did get the type that shows you the CO level, so you can check if you're getting zero or something higher. <A> The detector is there to protect people not the furnace. <S> It should be in the living space not the utility space. <S> And you should have one on each level
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If you place the CO detector in that living space, it should warn you of danger without being overloaded by proximity to the appliance. However, there are exceptions to rules sometimes. So, I'd put it in the hall by the closet.
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How can I pull a wire through a pipe that has too many turns for fish tape? I need to replace a sump pump, but have run into a problem. The route for the cord goes through a 2" pipe with two 90 degree bends, and fish tape is ineffective. The pipe appears poorly jointed as well and uneven. Is there a way to get the cord through this convoluted pipe? The old cord is already out of the pipe, and cannot be used to drag a pull string. <Q> I tied a string to the cord, tied a plastic bag to the string, and sucked that bag right through the pipe using a vacuum cleaner. <S> Once the bag is through, pull the cord through, and untie the string. <A> While a vacuum and rat (plastic bag) works most of the time, it sometimes fails for many reasons. <S> You might want to go the opposite of that idea. <S> Get some nylon string and a living rat from a local store. <S> Get some compressed air from somewhere. <S> I have known them to run 1/4 mile before. <S> And the rat will go fast. <S> Have a helper to dole out string as it enters the conduit. <S> It's best to have a good lead laid out on the ground, because when you start, the first hundred feet will be run in seconds. <S> Good luck <A> Another trick that works is to use weed-whacker line. <S> It's essentially really thick monofilament <S> and it turns corners better than fish tape. <S> I've used a lot of it on my boat to pull wires. <A> In the past I have used micro RC cars - tie the string to the body and drive. <S> hexbugs - <S> (A hexbug is a small oscillating, buzzing "robot". <S> The oscillation in combination with its flexible rubber legs makes it move.) <S> tie a string to it (lightweight monofilament) and go for a cup of tea, come back when the bug has gone through the conduit <S> magnets - one tied to the end of the string one outside the wall to pull it through the pipe, doesn't work so well on ferrous pipes :D <S> hoover with a bag and string - as described above small fishing float - tied to a light line, close the "bottom" end of the pipe, flood it and watch the float come up voila pipe traversed. <S> leaf blower and bag and string - similar to the vacuum, more fun to do though, and seems to develop more pressure for pushing the bag. <S> bearded dragon - put him in one end, release live food at the other and off <S> he goes..... <S> just remember to tie a light string to a harness or its basically just a fun run for your lizard! <S> ( guilty! ) <S> Hopefully some of these can help you, maybe not the bearded dragon for that size of pipe though. <A> Luckily we put all the bells in the same direction. <S> Even the wire would not go one way. <S> We tried putting the fish wire in the other way and the pulling no luck even on the first 90 degree. <S> All the bells were going one way <S> so we were lucky. <S> Then we did not use the fish wire again and used the thin nylon rope and pulled on the "easy" way. <S> Went at about 2-3" per pull no problem. <S> So there is an easy way to pull and an impossible way. <S> The easiest way you get the fish wire though is the easiest for the wires as well. <S> so you need to put fish wire through easiest way, then pull the rope though, then tie the rope with electric tape, then pull the way you got your original fish wire (easy way) through. <S> At least that worked for us. <A> Had a vertical drop on an HVAC oval return duct with an S curve that had a 2 foot horizontal run. <S> I used a real fishing pole and put a tiny fishing hook into a ping pong ball. <S> I gave the line plenty of slack and dropped the ball in. <S> After a few tries, it bounced through the S curve. <S> I then used the fishing line to pull through a stronger small rope. <S> I then used the stronger rope to pull the wire. <A> I use a rodding spring line aka drain cleaning cable that I use to unblock pipes to thread cables.
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Then we put the fish wire the way it would go (easy way) and pulled a small nylon rope through. Just be a little cautious: the bag can travel through the pipe in a blink of an eye, and you might not want to have to fish the bag out of the vacuum. This technique worked great. We just pulled 3 THHN-2 gage 2 (two power one neutral) and one THHN-2 gage 6 for ground through about 25 feet with two wide angle 90's (normal 90 degree but not abrupt) and one 45 degree. As a wireman with 30+ years of experience, I've had to do lots of tricks to complete the task. Be sure to size the rat for the specific size conduit.
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Horizontal fire blocking when using rigid foam in basement? There are lots and lots of how-to's out there on how to put rigid foam against a concrete basement wall before putting up 2 X 4 framing. Seal the joints, etc...doesn't seem to complicated. On to framing...it also seems easy (and stupid not to) to get the required fire blocking at the top...below your joists...in the vertical direction. What I'm really scratching my head over, and I haven't see ONE SINGLE EXAMPLE of how to do this correctly in all of the so-called "Internet How-to's"...is how do you achieve horizontal fire blocking every 10 feet when you've got rigid foam between the concrete and the framing? Picture this...concrete walls covered with rigid foam floor to top of concrete wall. Now throw up your framing. Let's say I'm using 1" foam (southern climate zone, above grade). As I interpret the rule, you need a framing member DIRECTLY against the concrete...so do I rip a 2 X 6 to 4.5"...carve out 1.5" wide of foam at that spot? Doesn't make sense...not supposed to put lumber against concrete, and I'm pretty sure you can't have PT every 10 ft in an interior space. Yes, I did check with the AHJ, and the answer was "Yes, you need fire blocking and no, rigid foam or fire-retardant great stuff does not qualify" which makes sense...that stuff melts if your hot breath gets on it. Would would help me get my head around this would be a example photo..which I've spent hours searching for. <Q> Yes “fireblocking” is required in COMBUSTIBLE construction. <S> It’s required: 1) at 10’ intervals (both vertically and horizontally) in concealed spaces, 2) between floor lines, and 3) between top flood and attics. <S> (See ICC 718.2.) <S> Fireblocking can be: 1) 2” (nominal) <S> thick lumber, 2) <S> two layers of 1” (nominal) lumber with laps staggered, 3) 3/4” plywood, 4) 3/4” particle board, 5) 1/2” gypsum board, 6) 1/4” cement based millboard, 7) batts or blankets of mineral wool insulation as long as it’s securely fastened to stay in place, or 8) cellulose insulation. <S> (See ICC 718.2.1.) <S> The ICC 718.2.1.2 allows fiberglass insulation too, as long as it completely fills all the voids and is unfaced. <S> If you use wood (lumber, plywood or particleboard) it must be pressure treated or naturally durable wood if it touches concrete or masonry, with some exceptions, see below. <S> Actually, the common notion that ALL wood must be treated if it’s in contact with concrete or masonry is incorrect. <S> I did some checking and found the following: The ICC Code Section 2304.11 Protection against Decay and Termites covers this requirement. <S> What the Code says is that protection against decay and termites, “shall be by naturally durable or preservative-treated wood.” <S> (See ICC 2304.11.1.) <S> I’m not sure what “naturally durable” wood is... <S> and I’m sure <S> it’s <S> NOT cedar or redwood, which is probably the most durable WOOD for exterior use, where I live. <S> (Please don’t lecture me on Hardie lap siding, etc. <S> It’s not wood... <S> it’s composite wood”.) <S> So, in your case, “naturally durable wood or preservative-treated wood” is only required where framing and furring strips are attached directly on the interior of exterior concrete or masonry foundation walls below grade. <S> (See ICC 2304.11.2.3.) <S> This is extremely interesting because it says “ATTACHED” <S> and it says, “interior side of EXTERIOR concrete or masonry walls BELOW grade.” <S> My understanding of this is your fireblocking would NOT need to be preservative-treated if it’s 1) not attached, or 2) not on an exterior wall, or 3) <S> it’s not below the exterior grade. <S> I learned something today. <A> You don't need to interrupt the foam insulation with fireblocking, but if there's a gap between the foam insulation and your framed wall, then you'll need fireblocking across the gap every 10 feet. <S> IBC 2015, 718.2: <S> Fireblocking shall be installed in the locations specified in Sections 718.2.2 through 718.2.7. <S> While 718.2.2 designates a "concealed wall space" as requiring fireblocking, 718.2 (quoted above) prescribes the nature of this fireblocking: It interrupts "concealed draft openings. <S> " Building your framed wall tight to the foam will avoid any draft openings, but if you've got a gap between the framed wall and your foam, then that's a draft opening that will need a fireblock every 10 feet. <A> It seems to depend on your building department's interpretation of whether foam is a "concealed space" or not. <S> Here is another discussion about this exact question: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/general-questions/39458/basement-wall-fire-blocking-material <A> The link posted doesn't answer the dilemma: non-treated wood against concrete. <S> What I ended up using was Hardi-trim (1/2) thick, which matched the thickness of the XPS I was using, then a stud in front of the Hardi. <A> In the following video, it is implied his local building code requires fire blocking to go all the way to the concrete. <S> He places a vertical piece of treated plywood between every other sheet of XPS (so every 8 ft.) and seals it with fire block foam sealant. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-Ec_atkhQs <S> This is the only video I've found that does this. <S> Everything else I've seen covers the entire wall with XPS, as you suggested. <S> I'm waiting to hear from my local building department to find out if this is required for me or not.
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In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be installed to cut off concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and shall form an effective barrier between floors, between a top story and a roof or attic space.
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Why are my some of my LED lights flickering? Something is causing some of my LED lights to flicker in three locations. Here are two examples: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4J-g2z_YtYM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlbPdvkZ-BU There are a few peculiar aspects. The lights flicker sometimes and not at other times. Each time the flicker period is prolonged. I would say the lights flicker about 30-40% of the time. The lights flicker at different "flicker frequencies" as you can see in the videos. The flicker frequency also varies from time to time. There are three different rooms/circuits where the LED lights flicker. (They don't flicker in other rooms/circuits.) In each of the rooms, the light bulbs are of a different brand. There are 4 brands in total: Torchstar, Feit Electric, Hyperikon, Philips. Each of the three rooms uses a different kind of switch: Lutron dimmer (DV-600P), Lutron dimmer (DVW-600PH), and a dumb switch . The flicker sometimes stops if I replace one of the lights on the switch with an incandescent bulb. In one of the rooms, I have two sets of lights on two different switches, on a single circuit. Occasionally one set flickers more than the other. A bad connection anywhere along the path is out of the question. Any insight would be greatly appreciated! <Q> Simply put, you have the wrong type of switch for the bulbs you have installed. <S> Most (not in every scenerio) <S> LED bulbs require you to install an ELV type dimmer. <S> What you have installed is a standard incandescent dimmer. <S> There are three main types of dimming switches. <S> Incandescent, CFL (for incandescents, fluorescents, and SOME LED bulbs), and ELV (for most popular LED bulbs). <S> If you look on the box that the bulb came in, somewhere in small print it should tell you that A) <S> It's dimmable and B) <S> what type dimming switch it requires. <S> I could go into detail on exactly why sometimes they flicker and other times <S> they don't <S> but I don't think you'd be that interested in learning the engineering aspects of these switches. <S> Other causes of flickering : 1) <S> mixed bulb types (ie. incandescent and LED on the same switch) 2) <S> mixed bulb vendors 3) non-dimmable LED bulbs <S> 4) defective LED driver 5) <S> defective dimming switch <A> I had a flickering problem with under cabinet LEDs. <S> (6411 replacements) <S> But, if I put one or two of the old incandescent bulbs in the circuit, the flickering stopped. <A> Leds are generally not dimmable, especially the mains ones (110 or 220V). <S> Also, dimmers (and backlit switches) usually malfunction with non-resistive loads. <S> That's why putting in an incandescent bulb sometimes restores more correct operation. <S> If those are mains leds, try them in a desktop lamp. <S> If those are 12V leds, you might need to replace the transformer. <S> If you have an "electronic transformer", it has not only maximum rating, but a minimum one as well. <S> In that case replacing 50W bulbs with 2W leds can lead to the power supply being severely underloaded which causes problems. <S> Even if it's an old fashioned toroidal transformer, having too big transformer just wastes energy. <S> Installations more complicated than a fixture + dumbswitch and running on mains voltage cannot just accept leds in place of incandescent bulbs. <S> You need to have such installation redesigned (and it won't accept regular bulbs then). <A> I recently had a problem with many LED bulbs on the same circuit causing flickering and bulbs going out. <S> The more bulbs on the circuit, the worse the total power factor. <S> The poor power factor many affect the bulbs themselves.
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This issue may be due to the power factor of the bulbs.
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How can I access the water in my pipes during a supply outage? I am trying to think about how many times I could flush a toilet in my house if I have to shut off the water to do a DIY project or if some disaster disrupts our water service. Since atmospheric pressure can push water up to a height of 10 meters (33 feet) and my house is not that tall, it seems that the atmospheric pressure would push the water up and prevent me from using most of it. I think typically the only water in the system I could use would be the water that gets displaced with air bubbles going into a faucet or pipe as I draw water from it, and that only works for a body of water that is in contact with some air and is above that air, so the shape of your pipes determines how much water you can draw with that method. To allow for more toilet flushes while the water is off, would it be possible to "shotgun" the plumbing system in the house, just like people shotgun beers? I am thinking I would turn on the highest component of the system (e.g. a shower on the 2nd story) in order to let air flow into the top of the system. Then I should be able to use a lot of the water from the pipes in order to flush toilets on the ground floor. Would this plan work? Could it damage my plumbing? <Q> You are correct that you should be able to get a dribble of water out of your pipes this way. <S> But you are probably overestimating the usefulness; my guess is you have less than a gallon in your entire household plumbing. <S> (Of course it depends on your home <S> and you can do your own estimation based on pipe size and total length.) <S> One toilet flush uses about 1.5 gallons (or more, depending on the design). <S> If you want to have access to water in an emergency I would suggest storing some yourself. <S> You can buy large water jugs at most supermarkets. <S> And/or if you are expecting a service outage you can fill a bathtub with water. <A> If you didn't have the chance to cache any in the tub in advance and don't care about hot water, you could drain quite a bit from your heater to flush. <S> I'd turn off the gas or breaker to it <S> so you don't burn it up if you were going to do this though. <S> You'd only have a few gallons at most within your pipes but you should be able to drain all but 5-10 gallons from your tank into some kind of container (shorter the better). <A> Yes, venting the system from a high point would release the vacuum and give you access to more water more quickly. <S> This is a common tactic when draining pipes for solder work. <S> Effectiveness depends a lot on the vertical layout of the system. <S> Opening several high faucets would typically release more water. <S> That said, pressure is now dependent on gravity and height, and will be much lower than a municipal service typically provides. <S> A more reliable and longer term approach would be to keep a few gallons of water on hand. <S> Fill some old milk jugs or buckets and flush with that, or borrow some from a neighbor. <A> Another option, situation permitting would be a tie over.there are a few ( if's) involved, but can be very simple. <S> If you and your neighbor get along well, you live in a standard type residential area where houses are not to far apart <S> and you have a couple water hoses <S> , you can simply connect the hose/'s from your neighbors hose bib ( uaually on one side or another of the house to your hose bib and turn them both on. <S> This will energize your entire home.of coarse you may have to work out some payment arrangement with your neighbor depending how long you intend on needing it. <A> there is 1 psi per 2.31 feet of height for water for example a 2 story house then with water in the pipes going 20 ft above ground there is 8.66 psi at the lowest point. <S> Or to get water up to the 2nd floor at 20 feet above ground just to dribble out faucet at zero pressure you need 8.66 psi in the basement (a 1psi drop will happen for every 2.31 feet of vertical rise). <S> (a) just drain water out the lowest point of your domestic side plumbing, which will only be a few gallons for most houses. <S> For a 1 gal per flush toilet you can do the math. <S> (b) plumb in some kind of water storage tank of X gallons. <S> For example any domestic hot water tank... <S> around 100-120 gal are common max size readily available, 300+ gal can be found. <S> Shut your incoming water main valve (back flowing water into city water supply would be illegal), find a way to pressurize your plumbing when isolated from the [city/well] supply. <S> bicycle tire pumps can do over 100 psi = <S> don't need electricity, a large enough air storage tank would provide enough air volume to pressurize your isolated water storage tank to give you X minutes of running water before making your kid get back on the bicycle pump to finish your cold shower. <S> if you store any kind of [unheated] water be mindful of bacteria and legionnaires city water main provides 90-100 psi to your house <S> , you might have a pressure reducing valve dropping it to no less than ~50 psi. <S> If on <S> well water <S> then whatever psi your well pump is capable still under 90 psi. <S> Temperature/Pressure relief valve on domestic hot water tanks are 150 psi, as is what all faucet and plumbing fixtures and piping are rated to.
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You can refill a toilet tank yourself by just pouring water into the tank until the float lifts up.
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Electrical outlet on a dimmer switch? I live in an older house and have some outlets in our kitchen that don't make sense to me. We have one outlet that is tied to a dimmer switch on the opposite side of the room. I can detect that the outlet is hot using my voltage detector (when the dimmer switch is all the way on), but it pulses. I get about 6-7 beeps, then it skips one, beeps 6-7 more times, skips, continue. My GFCI tester shows an open hot. The outlet doesn't work. I'm not very experienced with electrical work but this sounds highly unusual to me. Where should I start with fixing the issue? <Q> Outlets are not supposed to be dimmed! <S> While this might seem like a good idea if you wanted to plug in a table lamp that lacked its own dimmer, it creates a dangerous situation since outlets can accommodate any device with a plug, and some devices, such as many motors, react very badly to the output of a dimmer. <S> General use dimmer switches shall be used only to control permanently installed incandescent luminaires unless listed for the control of other loads and installed accordingly. <S> The other load dimmers are for fluorescent, LED or CLF fixtures. <S> The first thing I would do is replace the dimmer with a standard switch. <S> (Done with power from the breaker turned off.) <S> I would also check the outlet to see if it appears to be wired correctly -- black wire to brass, white wire to silver, green/bare to ground. <S> Restore power and check the outlet again. <S> Supplement Also see the answer by @ThreePhaseEel that explains specialized outlets that can be dimmed, and the associated code. <A> This is indeed a dangerous situation, as some loads (such as motor and linear transformer loads, as well as older switching power supplies) have quite a dim view of being wired to an ordinary dimmer. <S> In fact, the 2014 NEC added a section to address just that situation: 406.15 Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. <S> A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard configuration type that is specifically listed and identified for each such unique combination. <S> While such plugs do exist (Lutron makes the HDTR/DDTR receptacles and the mating RP-FDU plug for this application), they are a) expensive/not widely available and b) require modifying your lamps to use the new plug. <S> It's easier to replace the dimmer with a simple switch, as proposed. <A> If it 'doesn't work', replacing the dimmer with a switch may not give you a working outlet, depending on what's causing it to not work. <S> Try cranking the dimmer to max. <S> and plugging in a (dimmable) lamp. <S> If the lamp works, you have a functioning circuit and you can just replace the dimmer. <S> Pulses are not unusual: some dimmers work by rapidly switching the power supply on/off. <S> The longer the pulse, the more light you get. <S> This plays havoc with motors, fluorescents etc.
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If the lamp doesn't work, the issue may be in the dimmer or in the wiring. Dimmers are not listed for standard outlets. It is forbidden under 404.14(E):
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Suggestions for HDMI/aerial/audio socket I'm planning to hang my TV on the wall. To avoid having cables hanging fro the TV to the sockets and other apparatus I was thinking of adding a socket just behind the TV and have all wires go behind the wall. Job should be pretty straightforward for power connections but I don't know what to do for HDMI&co. I would like the arrangement to be flexible, so if tomorrow I need to pass a SCART cable or another HDMI I don't need to make other holes in the wall. Is there any product suited for this task? What's the best solution? <Q> There are wall plates that are designed for your situation. <S> Power <S> For power, you can add the socket as you described. <S> Low voltage <S> Running conduit is the best for future flexibility. <S> There's "flexible opening wall plates" that have rubber grommets in them that work very well for this purpose. <S> These work very well with a low-voltage junction box (which basically is a junction box with no back) <S> You can terminate the cables near your equipment the same way, or install actual wall plates, depending on your needs. <S> I prefer wall plates with jacks (built-in or keystone) for that situation, because it's neater and allows you to easily disconnect stuff while cleaning/moving/whatever without a bunch of cables hanging out of the wall. <S> Combined <S> There are also a number of products that combine both power and low-voltage that work really well behind a TV. <A> and now you have a robust, high-capacity, good looking conduit for about any cable. <S> There's a good chance someone makes something like this ready to go, but I haven't come across it. <A> If you want to be flexible, I'd use a cable tray, either placed in front of the wall or flush-mounted. <S> Either way, make sure the lid remains accessible after installation, so you can remove it and insert new cables. <S> Install sockets into the lid, or make notches and feed the cable itself through. <S> In addition to the other answers, you can get all kinds of sockets including HDMI in a standardized format, these were designed for pro audio applications. <S> Pro audio shops, electronics shops etc. carry them. <S> Example : <S> (this is a feedthrough connector, with HDMI sockets on both sides) <S> (Edit: removed recommendation to cut and solder an HDMI cable, as that's unlikely to work correctly) <A> I was initially going to use a proper face plate, but like you, I didn't want to limit myself to what I needed now this minute. <S> I opted for a "Brushed Faceplate". <S> They come in standard UK sizes, meaning they'll fit onto any normal backbox. <S> out similar to this . <S> I actually used the LAP kit from Screwfix <S> and I've been quite happy with it. <S> Just put one where the cables enter and one where they leave and hey presto - a neat solution that's a doddle to modify if required. <S> Plus, you can get a LOT more cables through a single gang socket vs having a faceplate. <S> Even moreso if they're different types. <A> If you have access to the other side of the drywall (ie, it's not drywall on both sides), you could easily add a junction box that has a pipe running down to a second one by the floor (or into the basement). <S> Of course, you would NOT want your power cables running in the same box/pipe as AV cables.
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I personally like just having a cable sticking out of the wall, rather than putting connectors behind the TV and requiring a bunch of short patch cables. For HDMI/signal/etc low voltage stuff, there are a number of options. My standard practice is to use a low-voltage "box": ... and a blank cover plate: ... to which I add a desktop grommet: It's a bit fiddly, but hot glue works well to secure the grommet to the plate from behind My surround sound cables run down a PVC pipe into the basement and then up smaller pipes to boxes in each corner of the room. I've recently done something very similar.
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I need to find out how to straighten a wall Just bought my first house and doing a lot of the work myself. I want to add electrical and audio lines but I want to make sure the walls are straight first. I've seen some videos where the guy cracks new wall studs to move them back, but I don't have the luxury as the vanity side wall is adjoining a finished room. I've laid a straight edge along and identified a few studs protruding into the room more than the rest and I'm unsure how to 1.) make sure the plane of all the studs is even.2.) While doing so, getting the corners closer to 90 angles. The house was built in the early 1900s with 2X6 walls and 8'6" ceilings. Thanks. <Q> The easiest route to getting a straight, vertical wall is to identify the furthest out studs and then shim out those studs that are not as far out. <S> Similarly, find the area on each stud that is furthest into the room and then shim the recessed areas of the stud to match. <S> Shimming can be done using cedar shims, sold by the bundle in big box stores and lumber yards. <S> They can be broken to get the right size and length and tacked in place with a stapler or brads. <S> Not every inch of the studs has to be shimmed. <S> I would try not to leave a gap of more than about 12 to 18 inches though. <S> If there is only one stud proud of the rest, I might try to shave that down, but if there are several, proud or leaning, I would use shims. <S> Getting to 90 degrees is a bit tougher, and is usually only done if there are cabinets that simply must be flush with the side wall. <S> If the difference is enough, you might even need to rip a thin shimming strip for each stud to adjust, or even sister a stud next to, but proud of, the existing studs as a nailing piece to hold the drywall ( sistering is attaching a parallel board of similar size next to an existing board for strength or better positioning). <A> If the original studs were mostly plumb and not too bumpy, I planed off the high spots and shimmed the low ones. <S> If they were not plumb or quite bumpy, I just sistered new studs to them. <S> Sistering was almost always required to square the walls. <S> I had to do that in both the kitchen and bath. <S> As an engineer, the easiest way to verify square to me is pythagorean theorem. <S> The quickest shortcut for that is using a 3-4-5 triangle. <S> Measure along the toe plates 3' on one wall and 4' on the other. <A> Those factors may make this technique inappropriate, but it's worth mentioning. <S> If you have a stud that's bowed in one direction, cut 2/3 through it from the accessible side. <S> This creates a hinge point but doesn't risk serious settling or other movement if done one or two studs at a time. <S> Expect some relaxation movement when you release pressure. <S> You can also attach one half of the scab and use the other to lever the stud further into place. <S> Start with the lever half sticking out past the stud a quarter inch or so, then push it in flush to remove the bow, and screw it in place. <S> If you've cut the concave (inset) side of the stud: Push or lever the stud 50% past straight and drive a wood shim into the now-widened cut. <S> Expect some relaxation movement here as well. <S> It's not unheard of to do this more than once on a severely bowed stud--say at 1/3 and 2/3 of its length. <S> Once that's done, optionally apply a scab stud of an appropriate length to stabilize. <S> You can use this technique on one or several studs in a wall even without the scab studs. <S> The remaining studs, drywall, and any cabinetry all serve to adequately stiffen the wall as a system.
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Then... If you've cut the convex (protruding) side of the stud: Push or lever the stud slightly past straight and screw a 3-4' or longer scab stud to the side of it. You can do the same with the top plates though you know if the bottom is square and the studs are plumb that the top would also be square. More often the edge of a cabinet near an untrue corner stops an inch or two short of the adjacent wall and is completed with a trim strip. If you need to get a perfect 90, you can use a framing square in the corner to see where the error is, and which wall needs to be adjusted to accommodate. Distance between those marks along the diagonal will be 5' if it's square. You mentioned the fact that there are cabinets in adjoining rooms, old plaster, and other complications.
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Why does a cordless circular saw have the blade on the left? At the moment considering the purchase of a circular saw for light work. I'm looking at a corded model and a cordless model. But the question I have is not about which one is better. My question today is why the corded one has the blade on the right of my hand and the cordless one has the blade on the left of my hand. See both models below. Now, I know some manufacturers make left- and right-handed versions of their circular saw. And I'm also aware that 'worm drive circular saws' usually have the blade to the left of my hand. But it seems odd to me. Especially as it seems to apply to most manufacturers too. Was wondering if somebody has an explanation for this. <Q> A majority of people are right handed. <A> I (a right handed person) bought an Aldi Workzone cordless saw, and the blade is on the right side. <S> This allows good visibility of the 0 & 45 degree guide slots. <S> If the blade was on the left side I would not be able to see the guide slots as they would be obscured by my left wrist, which grips the front saw support. <A> I have a Craftsman Corded 7.25 circular saw and a Worx 6.5 battery saw. <S> Both are Blade-RIGHT. <S> I can handle the Craftsman just fine, but the Worx battery one is a bear to sight the cut. <S> Also the Worx has the safety button on the left side of the handle which is incorrect for using it <S> left handed. <S> I am now considering a Blade-LEFT battery powered saw so I can see where my cut will start <S> and I can see the length of the cut. <S> The 6.5 Battery powered circular saws are considerably lighter and easier to use, if you can see where you are cutting and can push the safety button. <S> My Craftsman is old enough NOT to have the safety button <S> so it is slightly more ambidextrous. <S> I hope this help someone. <A> I too have been wondering why cordless are left. <S> I have many years of experience with my 7-1/4" Makita and can debunk many of the opinions here. <S> Even with my experience and ability to cut straight, I have grown accustomed to holding the stock and a speed square in my left hand, and making cuts as true as a miter saw. <S> I would not hold a speed square on the blade side! <S> The left blade cordless would require a total reversal- left hand on the saw, right hand holding material and square, benches set to support the stock on the right. <S> The only explanation that might make sense if the smaller blade might be more difficult to see? <S> But with a square and experience I am looking at the notch, not the blade. <S> Having said that, the cordless saws are perhaps better for cutting paneling? <S> where you do need to watch the blade. <S> Also, there is a safety concern and I am certain it is advisable to hold a circular saw in the hand where you have the exposed blade- <S> simply so you cannot cut yourself! <S> I know there is no way I would ever be as good cutting lefty. <S> too bad, maybe I just get one for hack work and convenience trimming a fascia board from a two story ladder. <S> no one is going to see it's not a perfect cut.
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With the blade to the left you are positioned to comfortably view the cut (for a right handed person).
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Need help removing bolt and nuts from a mailbox I'm not really handy, and so this is the first time doing something like this. I have a 15+ year old mailbox which is fastened to a metal post by four quite rusted bolts and nuts on the side. The bolts are of the slot types, so I thought it would be a simple as unscrewing them with a screwdriver. Unfortunately, the nut (which is a bit thinner/smaller than a standard nut) also turns with the bolt. I've tried to do the things suggested in this question (using a wrench/pliers), but haven't had luck so far; holding down the nut while turning the bolt head just makes the screwdriver slip out of the slot. I've applied some lubricant, but no dice either. I don't have access to any power tools like a drill either, and I wouldn't be sure what to look for in a store. Any other suggestions? <Q> Spray it with a bit of penetrating oil, then sit back and wait for a bit (a beer or two ought to do it). <S> Then try loosening the bolt again. <S> Repeat until the bolts are out, or you're too drunk to care. <A> If your screwdriver is slipping out, it may be to small. <S> Or possibly you need another set of hands to help with this project. <S> Very rusted bolts can be extremely difficult to remove. <S> If penetrating oil, as suggested by Tester101, and the proper tools (big screwdriver, wrench, vice grip pliers, etc.) don't work then you may have to cut the bolts off with a hacksaw, or dremel and then replace them when you reinstall. <S> Use galvanized or stainless steel fasteners when you reinstall to reduce the future corrosion problems. <A> If you're driving a flat screw against a rusty thread, you really need the screwdriver to be perfect in the screw head, exactly the right size. <S> That requires careful choice of screwdriver and maybe using a wirebrush or something to knock the rust off the slot. <S> If you have a tap and die set, you can also try running a die up the rusty threads to clean them up. <S> Start it properly, then once you've run it up, flip it over and run it again to clean up the threads you couldn't reach. <S> That's still not perfect but <S> it'll save you time later once you get the nut turning. <S> As far as penetrating oil, use the good stuff. <S> Kroil is excellent, Liquid Wrench is at least available everywhere. <S> WD-40 is exactly what it says on the tin (Water Displacer 40) and is not a penetrating oil at all. <S> I use those fragile little discs, very very carefully with close attention to the stresses on the spinning disc. <S> Sort of like that guy who uses a sheet of paper in his table saw. <S> Or you could acetylene, use a nut splitter, <S> whatever floats your boat. <S> If you don't want it to happen again, use stainless steel or brass. <S> Or use hex-head, socket-head or Torx head fasteners rather than slotted or Philips.
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The last resort is to get a Dremel moto-tool and saw off the bolt, nut or head.
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Liquid in Clothes Washing Machine for balance? When my washer was brand new (not connected to any hoses), I noticed a liquid sloshing sound whenever I moved it around. The washer has been disconnected for about 2 years now and the liquid sloshing sound is still there, so I don't think this is water that has accumulated from washing clothes. I have done some research and I think that it is used as weight to help balance the washer as the drum spins around. My questions are: what is this liquid, its true purpose, and will it freeze/expand if left in a non-climate-controlled location? I have moved the washing machine to a new storage location that is covered and sealed from the elements, but has no heating or cooling. <Q> The washers are shipped with water in them. <S> The reason is that, at the factory, they have to test them before shipping. <S> Which means you hook them up and turn them on. <S> Washing machines don't drain 100% of the water from the drum, so what you're hearing is the remainder of that test. <S> In most cases, it's probably 1-2 gallons. <S> The water doesn't hurt the machine(it's designed to hold this residual water, after all). <S> As to freezing, if the water was frozen the liquid water it would add to start a new wash cycle would likely melt it enough to not harm the machine. <S> A Sears salesman confirmed this on their site <S> All washers are tested for leaks with water. <S> It's not uncommon to find a slightly wet spot on the box. <S> The spin basket also has a balance ring attached at the top which is half filled with water that you may be hearing sloshing around. <S> This is normal and the balance ring is sealed to prevent the water from escaping. <A> Washers are shipped without drain hoses so any liquid in the bottom would drain out. <S> If it is in a cold area you might want to remove the drain hose at the bottom or lay the hose flat on the ground and let it empty the bottom of the machine. <A> Many front loaders use a fluid dynamic balance system. <S> They balance the drum at the higher speeds that front loaders spin. <S> Since most of these systems are proprietary designs you would need to contact the manufacturer to find out the specifics for your particular model.
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The balance ring is not likely leaking and the wet spot is likely from when the washer was tested. Usually the balance mechanisms are mechanical.
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Shower in one bathroom causing moisture in the second We have two bathrooms side by side on our second floor. They both have the same exact layout (about 6'x7'). Both have their own separate exhaust fans (Nutone, 80CFM, 1.6amps), but share the same vent to the roof through a Y-shaped connector and flex 4" pipe. When we take steamy showers in bathroom A, paint from the ceiling of bathroom B is showing signs of moisture and paint is peeling in one area of the ceiling. We even noticed some condensation on the tile wall of bathroom B. What could be causing the problem in bathroom B and how can we fix it? <Q> If both fans are venting out the same exhaust port, i would check you have back-draft Dampers (one on each section before the presumed Y connector). <S> Its possible your first extractor is just blowing the damp air into the second bathroom - a damper should add enough resistance to the flow of air to make the damp air "prefer" exiting via the exhaust port rather than going through the second damper (and in to the second bathroom, causing the damp), without restricting airflow noticeably. <A> Your fans apparently don't have built-in dampers on their outlets, so you'd need to either add some to each inlet branch of the Y such as the one below or what James pictured, or remove the Y and run a second line to the outside. <S> I personally find the white flex duct inferior as well. <S> Traps dust and moisture which could mold over time if it is in an attic. <S> I'd use metal pipes for a short run or an insulated flex duct for a longer run. <A> This ensures that when the fan is running, air is pulled out of both bathrooms through the grilles, and cannot go in to either bathroom through the grille.
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One solution is to have two input grilles (one per bathroom), then a Y-connector, then an in-line fan, then the exhaust vent. (This solution may not be the most cost effective in your situation given you already have two fans.)
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Lock type for a door on a large box I have this large wooden box (2x4's and plywood) that I am making, with a single door (blue) on the front, hinged at the bottom. It might not be clear from my crappy sketch but the door is the full width, the sides (pink) are behind it when it is closed (it rests on the front edge of the sides). This box has a top but it isn't shown; the top is also a hinged lid, and can't be latched to the front door, it needs to stay independent. I need a locking mechanism that I can use to hold it shut (doesn't need a key, just needs to hold it shut). The problem I'm having is that due to this box's construction, the sides have an inch or two of flex in them (red arrows), they don't naturally line up with the door. This is OK but it means that I need a type of lock that can not only hold the door shut, but can also prevent side-to-side movement of the sides when it is locked. Also because the sides of the door are flush with the faces of the side, the lock pretty much has to be mounted on the side. So basically I need a type of lock that can hold two surfaces flush and prevent them from being separated. That is, I need a lock that I can mount on the side that constrains movement in both the red and blue arrow directions in the sketch above. The edge of the door is 1.5" wide. Is there any type of lock like this? The locks I've seen so far are: Barrel bolt lock: Won't work on the side since the bolt just slips right out, these can't prevent motion along the long axis of the bolt. Although if one existed that had pins on both sides... Hasp lock with a twisty thing: Won't keep the sides flush with the door edge when locked: Hook and eye: Pretty much the same problem as the hasp lock: Gate latch: I don't think this would work, they aren't really designed to prevent movement along the long axis, and even though I might be able to find one where the ball on the end is big enough to not slip through the hole, it would have some play in it so wouldn't hold the door closed tightly, plus it would be super awkward to open and close: Sash lock: The closest thing I've found to what I want so far, but even this doesn't quite work, it only prevents movement along one direction of the red arrows. Plus, they tend to be on the small side, being designed for windows, and so I'd be concerned about the mounting screw being so close to the edge of the wood: I don't really know what other types of locks there are. What can I use for this? I'm not too concerned about cost; I only need two of them (one for each side). I also don't need ultra high strength along the red arrows, the box won't really be holding anything that puts any amount of stress on the sides. What I do care about is longevity; the door won't be opened or closed particularly often but it does need to last for at least a few years. I hope I've explained this clearly. Edit: I think maybe something along the lines of this sketch could work, I'm not sure if there is a lock type like it that I could purchase, or maybe I can piece together some hardware. This would involve a barrel bolt lock on the front that slides through the hole in the tab: Maybe something like that could work? As long as the slot for the tab is wide enough to account for the curved path of the closing door. I'd be concerned about the red arrow movement ripping out the screws holding the tab in place over time but if it was a T shape with a wider mounting plate and more screws, that could work. <Q> Right Angle Hasp ( source ) <S> This type of right angle hasp would negate the need for guide pins, but would be inside the box. <S> ( source ) <S> Flexible Hinge Hasp <S> ( source ) <S> My first idea, before I thought of those hasps. <S> Barrel locks on the inside that are thrown into holes that are drilled into the sides (shown in green on the left). <S> And doll rods or guide pins to prevent side-to-side movement (shown in green on the right). <A> My recommendation would be a furniture lock, eg a simple cam lock on the door engaging a slot in the top. <S> Cleaner appearance, simple function. <S> You could even use one if the magnetic "tot locks" for operation with no visible keyhole. <A> Here's how I might do it, if I had to put a lock on such a box (labels below image): Blue indicates parts that are hidden inside the box. <S> Red indicates parts visible from the outside. <S> Some parts are not drawn for clarity (and to save drawing time). <S> The large left and right rectangles are the box side walls. <S> The long horizontal rectangles are locking rods that fit into holes in the box walls. <S> The small left and right rectangles are guides for the locking rods, attached to the sides of the front door panel. <S> The center vertical rectangle is a plate that rotates if the lock is released. <S> The small circles are pins that link the locking rods to the rotating plate. <S> The red circle is the lock, accessible from the outside. <A> Another option would be to use over-centre catches, or toggle catches - you can get ones especially designed for furniture use. <S> A couple of examples from a certain well-known internet retailer: Over-centre catches Toggle Catches
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The red rectangle is a handle attached to the rotating plate, so that the key in the lock doesn't have to supply the force to rotate the plate and pull the locking rods.
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How to Make Freestanding Pegboard Walls? I was just over at a place called "Value IT" which used to be called "Value City", and the owners were really creative; they dropped the "C" and the "Y: from the sign to rename the store without buying an entirely new sign. That's just the spirit of that place. Anyway, aside from this store having wonderfully cheap second hand stuff, it also has walls; and not just any walls; Perforated Hardwood walls, everywhere, so that the landscape of the store can be modified to suite whoever and whatever a vendor may be selling there. Me being a meta sort of a person, I can't help but wonder where I can get some of these Perforated Hardwood walls for my own place. It would be wonderful to see a mess somewhere, and then organize it on the wall! And if I ever had to move as my capitalist masters frequently dictate; it would be nice to be able to just pack up my wall, and move it to another location...or if as with the vendors at Value IT, my needs would change, I could just take the wall own and re-purpose it. Now when I was rummaging around "Value IT" as I frequently do, I found an entire stack of the Perforated Hardwood, and it read on the label "Georgia Pacific Clutter Cutter"; which led me to figure out that it was called Perforated Hardwood or "Pegboard". But I was unable to find out what the stuff that fits inside these walls is called. I mean you can't just setup some peg board unless you have a garage with just some wooden rafters behind it to go with it; So in order to make the "walls" there are these vertical metal inserts that you screw the Perforated Hardwood into on both sides in order to form a wall. I suppose it also requires that you have at least two walls facing a 90 degree angle, which makes it seem to me like there are probably at least two kinds of inserts. Anyway the metal inserts for inside the walls were there too, but I couldn't find a label on any of them to find out what they were called. Does anybody know what those metal inserts inside the walls are called? If they indeed come in more than one variety, let me know that too; Or if they go by one more aliases, just as the pegboard / Perferated Hardwood does. They look pretty cheap and flimsy, but if they do the job, I'm fine with it. <Q> The metal things in the walls are metal studs, used in place of wooden studs. <S> In other words, these walls are built like any other interior wall, facing material over framing, with appropriate attention to possible fire hazards and so on. <S> Pegboard is perforated hard board , not hardwood. <A> Normally you would mount the pegboard either directly to studs, like in a garage, or on top of 1x2 furring strips attached to the studs. <S> If you wanted to get fancy, you could build a frame around it. <S> There are also metal pegboards . <A> Holy cow just Google peg board hangers like this , and wou will Find lots of options. <S> If it is not a pegboard we will need a photo. <S> If the peg board is only on 1 side the support legs will need to extend further to prevent it from falling over. <A> The metal pieces holding up the pegboard are simple metal studs . <S> You can find them at any big box hardware store. <S> As a more approachable alternative, rather than using metal studs, you can use wood studs to frame or float walls and attach the pegboard to those. <S> There are many, many tutorials online that describe different ways to frame a floating wall <S> so I won't post that here. <S> Every situation is different. <S> If you attach pegboard directly to a finished wall, make sure you use furring strips (just thin pieces of wood) to space the pegboard away from the wall so the metal hangars have space behind them to hang properly. <S> I've never heard the term "perforated hardwood" used when referring to this pegboard material--for one thing it's certainly not made from hardwood but rather high density fiberboard. <S> Home Depot has the white-laminated pegboard and Lowes carries the raw-brown colored pegboard.
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A free standing wall is not difficult to build with pegboard on both sides and feet to support.
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Gravel under solid drain pipe? I'm putting in a drainage system on my property including 12" drain basins in low spots on one side of the house and under downspouts. Probably going to use a light weight solid drainage pipe like, http://m.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-10-ft-Triplewall-Pipe-Solid-4550010/100135310 I often see people laying a gravel need under the pipe and over. Is that only useful for perforated pipe or is there a reason to do it on solid pipe as well? Buried PVC for instance doesn't require a gravel bed? Should the drain boxes be on a gravel bed too? <Q> What does the gravel provide: <S> The gravel helps allow you to build the drainage slope for the pipe and provides a back-up drainage medium for leakage. <S> In commercial projects we spec the drainage starts with perforated pipe then truncs into main drainage that is non-perforated <S> and we require the gravel to be carried throughout, as a secondary drainage path. <S> Why do I need the extra drainage in gravel: If the pipe connection has a flaw or if the ground shifts a pipe crack could form. <S> If the pipe is backfilled directly with soil the water will collect against the pipe and soil without somewhere to go. <S> This collecting of water will make the soil saturated, cause additional issues and water infiltration. <S> The gravel will allow the water to drain away from the pipe and down the path of least resistance in the direction of the pipe to the outfall. <A> There are two schools of thought. <S> The other is to use impervious soil material because the water at the inlet may flow under the pipe instead of through it. <S> It depends on the situation and the engineer. <A> I believe the recommendation is to surround all buried pipes with pea shingle or similar aggregate to avoid puncturing or crushing them when compacting, when the soil settles over time or the ground is loaded in some other way (traffic, building...). <S> The pea shingle will "flow" around the pipe and fill any voids underneath better than some other options. <S> From PavingExpert.com : <S> Vitrified clayware is much stronger than the plastic equivalents, and is less susceptible to deformation when buried; therefore, clayware relies less on the competence of the granular bedding material to withstand external loading. <S> Clay pipes can often be laid directly into a trimmed and formed trench (known as Class D bedding), whereas plasticware MUST be surrounded by a selected small gravel or pea-shingle. <S> This essential bedding material can often cost as much as, or even more than, the pipes and fittings needed for the job.
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One is yes use filter rock to bed the pipe for ease of grading and to prevent build up of water under the pipe.
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Automate and schedule button press on an apliance? I'd like to automate and schedule pressing of an "On" button on one of my appliances. (I can't do that by cutting power to it, it has to be powered on all the time, just on standby. I'd also prefer not to disassemble the appliance / button but really have it pressed mechanically.) The schedule would be quite constant (for example turn it on at 11:00 and turn off at 12:00 every day) but I'd like to be able to change that from time to time without much effort. How would you approach this problem? <Q> I've recently been experimenting with the Arduino microprocessor boards and have found them remarkably easy to work with. <S> I grabbed one from ebay for about $10AU along with a servo motor for less than $5AU. <S> All software and coding was <S> open source - free and easily accessible - communication is via a PC, once it is programmed you can set and forget. <S> Altering the program would be quick and easy. <S> The arduino runs on 5V (a USB cable) <S> so sourcing a power supply would not be difficult if you have a spare USB phone charger. <S> The servo motors generally come with shaft attachments and all you would need to do is glue something the correct length onto the servo shaft attachment that would hit your appliance button. <S> You would also need to fix the servo in place, if you didn't want to screw into the appliance you could construct a frame that sits under the appliance and holds the servo in place. <S> Alternatively, as someone else mentioned, an electromagnetic solenoid (a small unit that pokes a pin out when energised) could be simpler in terms of coding. <S> The arduino would need to be constantly powered to count time as it has no battery to power an internal clock. <S> There is external clock modules that can be bought to provide for this. <A> I think your best bet for a low cost mechanical solution would be to go to a good hobby shop that specializes in remote control cars, planes, boats, etc. <A> It is not clear whether you are asking for a MECHANICAL (no modification) solution where some robot finger punches a button? <S> Or do you have the option (and ability) to "hack" the appliance and gain access to the wiring to the button? <S> There are many solutions for connecting external controllers (like Arduino as Joshyp00 suggests) to execute the electrical equivalent of pushing the button. <S> This is probably a question more suitable for the "Electrical Engineering" forum. <A> There is a neat device that might be able to do exactly what you want. <S> This post talks more about it and includes some helpful pictures. <S> I currently have a Smartthings Hub that handles many automated events including lights, doorlocks, doorbell, sensors, and notifications.
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They should be able to hook you up with a servo and actuator that could press a button, you could control it with a plug-in appliance timer maybe, or maybe they could offer some other automated solution. I highly suggesting using a service like this to accomplish your task as you can schedule it virtually anyway you would like.
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Ceiling lights (fluorescent) takes too long to light My kitchen fluorescent ceiling light does not come on and another (smaller) fluorescent over sink is dim. Both come on later. Now my dishwasher won't come on. When the lights came on, the dishwasher lights came on for a few seconds. I checked the breakers, and I turned them on and off. They seems to be okay. What gives??? <Q> First, a little bit of a slow start is a good thing -- <S> that is a better-quality ballast <S> "soft-starting" the bulbs. <S> They light up pre-heaters in the ends of the bulb before striking the arc. <S> The best programmed-start ballasts actually measure performance, so they know to give the bulbs longer to start. <S> But this is not that. <S> To troubleshoot this: Change the bulbs, unless you have tested the bulb good in another fixture. <S> look around for a "starter" and change the starter if it has one. <S> Replace the ballast with a modern electronic ballast. <S> In this case, if there's a starter, it will be bypassed. <S> You can leave it in place to avoid an ugly hole. <S> Far better to get an LED "tube" which fits in the fixture you have. <S> I recommend getting "direct wire" LED tubes, in which you rewire your fixture to bypass the ballast. <S> (Don't use "ballast ready" or "drop in" types, because they require you to keep the ballast in the fixture, and it must be working, and it must be a very particular type 0 which is more trouble than it's worth.) <A> If it were just the light then I would replace the ballast. <S> Not sure about the dishwasher. <S> Hopefully someone else will jump in on this. <S> Best of luck. <A> There are a couple of effects of ageing <S> They get dimmer. <S> A smoky black mark develops at one end of the tube. <S> They get harder to start - <S> usually there's a period where they blink on and off a few times before starting. <S> Unless these tubes are less than a year old, I'd replace them. <S> I have an office with 64 fluorescent light tubes. <S> Several have lasted more than 15 years, one lasted only 1 year. <S> Most last around 7 years <S> but there is very considerable variation. <S> I wouldn't assume an individual fluorescent tube has a well-defined lifetime. <S> Unlike traditional incandescent tungsten-filament light bulbs, fluorescent light tubes need electronic gear to make them work. <S> There are several generations of this and the oldest used a "starter" that needed replacing periodically. <S> If your light fittings are old and have starters, I would try replacing them. <S> Starters are rated by power (Watts) <S> - you need a starter that has a higher rating than your tube. <S> After that, I would consider changing the rest of the electrical gear, usually called a ballast, and available in several forms - magnetic or electronic. <S> None of this should affect your dishwasher. <S> Problems with this may be coincidental or indicative of a more serious problem with the circuit.
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If it comes to this, you might consider replacing the light fittings with a LED based alternative. Fluorescent light tubes have a limited lifetime.
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