source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
What are the downsides of a pressurized room? The door to a bedroom is closed 24/7. Someone told me, "Be careful. It sounds like you are pressurizing the room." The room is fairly pressurized, I suppose; I can feel air rushing out from underneath the bottom of the door if I stand outside the room and in front of the closed door. But what is bad about that? I don't understand the practical significance of air pressure. <Q> In a properly configured home, the return air ducting is the exit path for airflow. <S> In older homes without return ducting, or vents solely in common areas, the return air path is indeed through or around the door. <S> Still, pressure buildup is extremely small unless the door is extraordinarily well sealed. <S> You should probably ask "someone" what his or her concern actually is. <S> The pressure differential in your situation is miniscule--probably not even enough to pop your ears. <S> The only downside I can come up with is the accumulation of dust bunnies outside your door. <A> A typical interior doorway has a gap of about 3mm along each side and the top, and often 5-10mm underneath. <S> This gives an area of around 20,000 mm^2, or about the same area as 150mm (6") duct. <S> Unless you take action to prevent airflow through these gaps (e.g. installing draft excluders or an automatic door closer that pushes the door tightly against the frame), you will not see a noticeable build-up of pressure. <S> Now the gap around a door does not exactly provide an unobstructed path for air flow, but even assuming a high friction coefficient for air leaking through the doorway, a 0.05kPa pressure difference (which is very small) would cause about 0.5 to 1 cubic metre (about 15-30 cubic feet) of air flow per minute. <S> Your room will still get adequate ventilation, and you won't find a noticeable pressure change between the two sides of the door. <A> If your forced air HVAC system does not have return ducts or if the return in this room is too restrictive, then the return air must flow under the door to a hallway and down to the hallway HVAC intake. <S> If you don't use this bedroom much, you might want to restrict the incoming air at the duct in this room and/or open wider the vents on other rooms to decrease the pressure in the a/c vents and balance the heating and cooling. <S> If you use this room a lot and need this amount of airflow in, you might consider cutting 1/4 inch off the bottom of the door to allow more flow out of the room. <S> I installed new oak doors on the bedrooms in our house <S> This means I have to carefully balance the restriction louvers on the air ducts to avoid pressurizing a particular room. <S> Edit: I now think from the comments and answers that a whole bedroom could not be pressurized enough to force any significant air out the bathroom vent. <A> As far as "practical effects" goes, the amount of heated (cooled) air going through this room is less than it would otherwise be. <S> This could affect appliance life since it would run longer/more to get the room to temperature, depending on the magnitude of the change of course! <A> You could freeze your AC coil or trip your furnace out on over heat, due to lack of air flow. <S> As far as humans are concerned, there is no concern. <A> The air will want to move through the path of least resistance. <S> If you block the exits of a room off, it would have the same effect as blocking off the entrance of the air into the room. <S> This will result in the positive pressure, but also no additional airflow into the room as the air will flow into other rooms that have return. <S> This could result in the room being cold because no additional air would be flowing into it.
|
If there is insufficient space under the door the room may become pressurized and if there is a bathroom off the bedroom you may lose conditioned air through the exhaust vent in the bathroom. There's no significant pressure buildup in any room regardless of door position. and I erred on the side of leaving the doors too close to the tile floor.
|
How do I use threaded inserts? I got these fasteners with table legs that I bought for a formica table top. I get that I need to embed the outer part with the big thread into the table, and then use an Allen key to fasten the bolts into that. But how do I get the outer part into the wood? Do I drill a little hole and just screw it in? <Q> You need to pre-drill a large but shallow hole of the correct depth, and use the bit size recommended by the manufacturer for the material you are setting those into. <S> Too small <S> and you'll crack the wood/whatever. <S> Too big <S> and they won't hold. <S> It matters. <S> You might want to try on some scrap first. <S> Did the supplier provide these nuts full knowing that you're going into formica? <S> Or is this a generic kit? <A> They're essentially screws themselves. <S> I'd have expected that the hardware kit specified a bit size. <S> Check the packaging, and check the hardware itself for markings. <S> On a side note, I wouldn't trust just those to secure table legs. <S> You'll almost certainly want some diagonal bracing or brackets to distribute the load and prevent tearout from torque stress. <S> Post photos of the entire project for more specific help. <A> If you have a micrometer, measure the outside diameter of the entry point in the barrel (illustration below) <S> If you don't, measure with a tape measure that will do increments of 1/32". <S> Next, measure the depth of the barrel, and mark that depth on a drill bit that is sized to the entry point of the barrel (plus a few mm to cover the depth of the screw that goes into said barrel). <S> Now, simply drill into the material and then screw the barrels in. <A> Here is an illustration how to use these screws: <S> https://www.rampa.com/cgi-bin/rampashopen.pl?id=2019&lang= Lookup the correct diameter for your material in the data sheet before you drill the hole. <S> Assembling recommendation by a manufacturer: <S> https://www.rampa.com/cgi-bin/rampashopen.pl?id=1942 <S> ps: <S> I am not sure, if we may copy the pictures here. <S> If yes, feel free to do so.
|
You'll need to drill holes for the sleeves the same size as the shaft, then thread them in using an Allen wrench that fits the larger sleeve socket.
|
Can I install two independent gfci outlets in one double-gang box? Cam I have two GFCIs connected to one double gang box in my laundry room and if so can I do a single line connection so that they both can work independently? I have a 12/2 going from the panel through conduit (copper wire) to the double gang box. I want to have each GFCI to run independently without using the load. Why, in case one shuts off the other isn't affected. the double gang box is standard. the device is a Leviton 20 amps. I was told that you can run 12/2 from the panel to the first GFCI black and white. Then connect the second GFCI using a jumper and attaching it to he second GFCI. Is this acceptable by code. we use a washer,dryer in the laundry and the garage heavy machinery. so why should this be a problem running two independent? <Q> Take the incoming hot (black) and wirenut it to black pigtails going to the brass LINE HOT screws on each GFCI. <S> Take the incoming neutral (white) and wirenut it to white pigtails going to the silver LINE NEUTRAL screws on each GFCI. <S> Take all the grounds and wirenut them to each other and to bare pigtails to the green ground screws on each GFCI -- <S> if you're in metal conduit with metal boxes, simply get self-grounding GFCIs instead. <S> With a single 12-2 and two yokes, you'll be nowhere near box fill for a double gang box, by the way. <A> A double gang box will be able to hold 2 separate GFCI outlets. <S> The only question would be on the box fill calculation if they are fed from separate circuits and then have additional devices on their load side a deep box may be needed. <S> If you post the size of the box, wire size and how many circuits in and out of the box we can tell you if it is code compliant. <S> (I would guess the wire size is 12 since you want to use 20 amp GFCI's ) but some people want 20 amp devices on 15 amp circuits just want to make sure we give you correct information. <A> Absolutely. <S> Pigtail or jumper (if allowed). <S> Start by taping over the LOAD terminals on each GFCI, as you will not be using them. <S> Jumper (if allowed) This won't work unless your first GFCI receptacle is listed for two-wire connection. <S> And in particular you can't use backstabs with 12 AWG wire. <S> However, some receptacles, particularly the better Levitons, don't have backstabs but instead have screw-secured clamps - like a backstab except you tighten the screw to clamp it. <S> Those often accept 2 wires. <S> That is the kind you need to do this. <S> U-loop connections <S> I'm not a fan of this, but some people strip an inch of insulation off the feed wire, about 8" back from the end, <S> They bend the bared wire into a U-shape. <S> Then they hook the U over the terminal screw on the first receptacle, shape it tight, and tighten the screw. <S> Pigtails <S> This method is much easier if you are straining to reach the receptacle location. <S> Attach 6" of black, white and green pigtails to the LINE side of each of the two GFCI receptacles. <S> Then get three wire nuts. <S> Nut together both outlet blacks(hots) with the supply black/hot. <S> Do the same with the whites/neutrals. <S> Do the same with the grounds.
|
If both GFCI's are fed from the same circuit and no or 1 cable feeding additional devices you should be fine. Typically GCI's have only one screw or one backstab, and you can't use both at once. When the first outlet is done, then you attach the remaining tail to the second outlet in the normal fashion. Test, button everything up, and done. You can do this anywhere convenient, i.e. the bench.
|
220 outlet burnt caused other outlets to go out breaker didn't trip A outlet in LR was plugged in but not in use burnt up as seen in pictures. Many other outlets and porch light went out also. The breaker didn't trip. By the looks of it I think it is copper. I cleaned out and wrapped the two corroded non black but burnt wires with electrical tape and replaced with a new outlet. Everything turned back on. I want to know if I should have it checked by an electrician to be safe and make sure the wire didn't burn further up in the cloth stuff that it is coming out of. I didn't pull it out or cut any but one small burnt piece off. <Q> You wrapped those burnt wires in electrical tape and turned it back on? <S> Please turn off that breaker and get an electrician in. <S> And check that your smoke detectors have working batteries. <S> At the very least all the wire in that box probably needs replacing. <S> The outlet likely caught fire from a loose connection. <S> The other outlets affected are probably downstream from this one - power for them flows through that outlet, which is why it has 2 sets of wires. <S> The loose connection acts more like a heating element, using lots of power but not enough to trip the breaker. <S> An AFCI breaker might have tripped, but even then might not. <A> First things first turn off that circuit and don't use it again until it has been properly inspected and repaired. <S> Use extension cords from other rooms if you have to. <S> To inspect and repair it will require opening up the wall. <S> No reason you can't do that yourself. <S> If you are lucky then it was just a fault at that outlet (bad connection, damaged insulation during installation, bit of loose wire in the wrong place etc) and you can cut back to good wire, fit one or more new boxes (you may need two if the wires come from multiple directions) and wire things back up. <S> If you are unluky then it may be old cable that is falling apart and the whole circuit may need rewiring. <A> I am an electrician and you did what I would do a loose connection at this receptacle causes <S> arcing the arcing is just like welding the wires and connection points get hot and catch fire. <S> This is why all junctions or splices are required to be made in a box. <S> The reason your breaker did not trip was because the bad connection was the issue causing that arc not excessive current. <S> Arc flashes can achieve the temperature of the Sun according to my arc flash training from osha. <S> So from my view point you insulated the wires tape or shrink tubing is what I use.
|
The wiring needs to be checked properly and any damaged sections replaced. It is possible for this to happen without tripping the breaker.
|
How to check if my house is properly grounded? I live in an very very old house, recently I purchase a surge protector (APC P5B-GR) and it came with "grounded" light indicator, when I plug the surge protector into my house wall outlet, the grounded light indicator does not turn on. Does that mean my house is not properly grounded? How do I check? Is there any risk if your house is not properly grounded? The surge protector says "This product must be connected to earth ground" in the back. So is it safe to use even if my house is not properly grounded? Here's a pictures of my house main electrical outlet. Here's a picture of my wall outlet. Here's a pictures of my surge protector <Q> Based on the model of the surge protector, I'm going to guess those are German outlets. <S> Does that mean my house is not properly grounded? <S> How do I check? <S> Is there any risk if your house is not properly grounded? <S> Something like a socket tester can tell you the status of an outlet These can be found at most hardware stores or online: https://www.amazon.de/Schwabe-Steckdosen-Tester-Null-Leiter-Anschluss-Prüfstecker-Schuko/dp/B01I3IPV1I <S> This will tell you whether or not your outlets are properly grounded. <S> The surge protector has a version of this tester built-in, and it's showing that the outlet you have it plugged in to is not grounded. <S> The surge protector says "This product must be connected to earth ground" in the back. <S> So is it safe to use even if my house is not properly grounded? <S> Without grounding, the surge protector becomes a power strip. <S> The surge protection is designed to redirect "surges" of electricity to ground, instead of to the outlet where equipment could be harmed. <S> So the harm is that you might think your equipment is protected when it might not be. <A> Most surge suppressor are made with MOV's Metal Oxide Varistors. <S> Theye work by dumping voltages above there listed value to ground. <S> If there is no ground connection there is no return (to earth) path for the voltage spike to go to. <S> If you own this home I would recommend a whole house surge protector that is installed at the service, if the home has a ground at the service connecting to that will protect everything not just 1 power strip. <S> If the home doesn't have a ground or the ground was connected to metal pipes (quite common in older homes) that have been replaced with plastic a new ground rod needs to be added and a #6 copper conductor run back to the service. <A> This is a UK version, I expect there are equivalent products for other countries/locales available locally.
|
Some advanced socket testers are able to perform an earth loop impedance test which provides more information about the state of the ground (earth) wiring. Your service may be grounded but the outlet you are connected to may not be and that could be why the light is not lit.
|
Screw stuck in wood I can't get these two screws out and I've tried using a drill and a screw driver. Any tips? <Q> It's readily apparent that you tried to use a drill. <S> The drill went "ratta-ratta-ratta-ratta" with lots of shaking. <S> Maybe you even think that's how drill-drivers normally work. <S> Or maybe the last guy did that while initially driving it, because it's hard to stop the momentum of a spinning drill. <S> Which is why it now looks like a Posidriv screw head instead of a Phillips. <S> If you can't do that, do what I do -- get a speed wrench and a bit holder . <S> This lets you press really hard while giving a lot of leverage to turn. <S> It also lets you turn really fast and stop on a dime. <S> source <A> If you can't get the screws to turn you just need to make sure that you're using a fresh #2 Phillips bit with the driver perfectly aligned with the screw, and press very firmly. <S> If the screws are spinning, it's probably because the threaded portion has gone beyond any firm material. <S> Use a chisel or putty knife to pry up on the head of the screw while you spin it backwards with the drill, pressing lightly. <S> Once the threads find their way out to solid wood the screw will back out easily. <A> Use a small rotary tool (such as Dremel) and a cutoff disk (wear eye protection, and be aware of where the sparks are going so you don't start a fire) to cut a slot for a flat-bladed screwdriver. <S> I think you've damaged the original sufficiently to make it dubious that you'll get them out with a Phillips, now.
|
Use a manual screwdriver, and press hard down the handle while you turn, and don't let it cam out.
|
3-prong grounded female plug for 12-gauge wire with an 18-gauge ground wire I am trying to find a 125V female plug receptacle with ground for a 12-gauge wire run in the 1960s, the ground wire of which is a much narrower gauge than the white and black conductors. The Levitons and the P&S's at the big box stores assume the three wires are going to be the same gauge, and so they don't get a tight grip the ground wire; it just slips right out. Is there a name for such a connector ? <Q> Go ahead and buy the modern version. <S> To make the light gauge ground wire secure, add another bit or two of wire—each an inch or so long—beside it into the terminal. <A> If the grounding conductor is 18ga, that would create the risk of a ground fault which passes enough current to severely overheat the grounding conductor without passing enough to trip the breaker quickly. <S> I would suggest that unless the breaker supplying the circuit is a GFCI (RCD) or AFCI, I would think it would be wise to use a GFCI outlet. <S> A GFCI or AFCI will kill the power if any significant current flows through the grounding conductor (at levels roughly two orders of magnitude below what would be required to cause overheating). <S> Having an 18ga grounding wire in combination with a GFCI or AFCI should be almost as good as having a 12ga wire, and would almost certainly be safer than having an ungrounded GFCI. <A> Don't double the wire up <S> , that won't hold, it will worm its way out especially if the strain relief isn't very good. <S> Dig into the gory details and <S> you'll find that this connector is not listed for 18AWG wire. <S> You can't use that connector for that wire. <S> What you're looking for is not big deal. <S> Most corded sockets have screws that go all the way down. <S> One redeeming quality of big-box is they'll take anything back. <S> Take it back. <S> Grab the connector on the next shelf up <S> that's 50 cents more. <S> But first read the label and part if possible, and see if it's listed for what you need. <S> Better yet, go to a proper electrical supply house at a quiet time (after 9am). <S> Tell the guy what you need and he will check the listings of each of his sockets til he finds one. <S> Or, he can just sell you cordage and strain reliefs to replace your obsolete cordage. <S> Speaking of strain relief, that is important. <S> That orange cheapie (a product of which I am familiar) has a strain relief fitting (and no doubt listed) to fit only one size of cable, i.e. One size of orange extension cord. <S> Surely not yours.
|
This will fill up the slot enough so that the screw meets the wires and can clamp them together firmly. Although codes generally require that all newly installed wiring have a grounding conductor the same gauge as would be required for hot and neutral, they generally allow the use of GFCI protection a substitute for a grounding conductor when wiring receptacles where a proper grounding wire is unavailable. Don't add wire. It may be good to talk to a local inspector for advice, since inspectors may have some discretion to allow deviations from normal code requirements when there is adequate justification.
|
Managing water entry at garage door during high winds on rainy days I have a garage floor that's level, and the driveway slopes very slightly away from the garage door. On rainy days, I don't have any issues with water entry, but on high-wind days, the rain hits the garage door, then runs down and pools at the corners. Eventually over time, the pool of water increases in size and makes its way into my garage. It only happens once in a while, but when it does, it can be annoying if I happen to leave stuff by the door. Is there a way to manage or make improvements to this with a minimal amount of work? I don't want to have to tear out the garage floor. Since the finished floor extends past the garage door by about 4 inches, perhaps this small section can be graded so the floor is sloped all of the way up to the door. This would prevent pooling at the corners. Then I could have a contractor remove the pavers in the driveway along the doors and install a trough / drain and maybe some kind of grate. Does this sound like the most reasonable way to deal with it? It's pouring right now, but if it helps, I can take pictures and post them here. <Q> I'd start with the simpler/cheaper approach first - simple job with a diamond blade and a grinder or saw. <A> Before you think about drain troughs, you might consider fitting a Stormguard Garage Threshold seal on the inside of the floor. <S> It has an upstand of about 15mm. <S> It stopped the autumn leaves blowing in on my friend's ill fitting up and over door. <S> Also stopped the snow blowing in. <S> It's available from Screwfix for about £30 {code No. 37019}. <A> Sounds like your door shuts down onto the level of the floor, which is permitting the water to be driven underneath. <S> Your car/bike/wheelbarrow's wheels will simply roll up this small step exactly like they would roll over a normal stormwater drain. <S> Sounds like you need to talk to a local concrete cutter to take a long thin rectangular section out from your floor. <S> Then seal the new exposed surface <S> well because it will be driven on and exposed to pooled water. <S> Do check that your door has enough "spare" height to close down another 25mm or 1 inch too. <S> If it doesn't then you may have to add height at the top of the door to make up the difference.
|
Locally modern installations of garage doors close into a reveal which is a depression under the door only, with a level about 10-25mm below that of the garage floor. It sounds like you could simply cut/have cut drainage channels from the problem areas to the front of the slab, or do that and also have a trough drain installed along the front of the slab.
|
What is this metal rail in the basement ceiling What is this metal rail in my basement and can I hang my 80 lbs punching bag on it? Thank you. <Q> This beam is holding up your house, so as long as it's well secured, you should be able to add an extra 80 lbs to it. <S> They make mounting brackets specifically for hanging heavy bags onto these: http://amzn.to/2iXojjG <A> Your beam ends in the middle of the room, being supported by a post. <S> This is weird and atypical. <S> I am afraid <S> only the person who implemented this solution could speak of it's purpose and strength. <S> Usually, I-beams like this are the toughest part of the house, <S> however in your setup it's mounting <S> looks super-flimsy. <S> A swing would be worse). <S> When you apply full force of your body to the bag horizontally and perpendicularly to the beam, you may knock the beam off the post that's supporting it. <S> If the other side is also supported by a post, this is pretty much bound to happen sooner or later with horizontal loads. <S> I'd treat this setup as for strictly vertical loading only. <S> If I saw it in a garage, I'd say it's a form of immobile gantry crane for hoisting a car engine up and down, while the car under it handles the side motion. <A> It looks like you have two things going on with this <S> If you look to the left side of your first photo, you can see what looks like framing for a doorway. <S> That framing is picking up the load of the floor joists above it. <S> But your I-beam is probably spanning a much larger opening (maybe 15 to 20 feet). <S> That I-beam is picking up the load of this longer opening. <S> Whomever did this was smart enough to realize they needed something more substantial than lumber to support a gap like that(you'd <S> be amazed at the contractors who would throw a couple of 2x4s in there and call it good, only to have it sag down the road) <S> I don't see how the I-beam is secured to... anything. <S> It's sitting on the joists <S> but I don't see anything holding it there except the weight of the floor, and the 1x4 running parallel. <S> You might want to bring in an engineer and have him look at this to see if it's safe to hold your house up , let alone hang a bag. <S> If I were you, I'd put a hook on the 2x8 joists for now. <S> They won't go anywhere. <S> One other safety note <S> But that first picture shows a wire running between the joist and the metal sheet. <S> That's a potential shock/fire hazard. <S> I'd have that fixed if I were you.
|
: it looks like they used metal sheeting to make an air duct out of your joists. Or maybe someone installed something very heavy on the floor upstairs and this was implemented to prevent the floor from buckling - which would work only short-term, as the posts would sink, eventually, because the floor isn't very strong in the middle of a room. This is a load-bearing I-beam . I am afraid that the punching bag is the worst possible thing to hang from it (ok, second-worst. You have a large opening in your basement. Normally I would expect to see bolts holding it somewhere, but I see none.
|
How to repair broken bed One side of the bed has totally come off. See pictures for the broken side plus the screws that are attached to it . My question is that is there any scope of repairing this bed so that in the future it can still be dismantled and reassembled. I can send more pictures if needed. The screw nuts look like they had been put in wood that was hollowed out for this purpose. So I am skeptical about how I can attach these components. But wanted feedback, To update. Two pieces that fell out of the broken wood are shown in the additional image. My hunch is that this is composite wood. <Q> Or, if the existing rail is solid wood, repair the rail using a shorter piece of new timber using a scarf joint. <S> Your existing rail looks like it might be some sort of composite with a complex cross section - but the replacement or repair part only needs to look the same on the outside and make contact with the other parts supported by the original rail. <S> If you are just repairing the end you may not need to make an exact match in areas that don't show and don't support anything. <S> Drill it to accept the bolt you have, or just screw on a sturdy L plate (sometimes sold as mending plates) <S> You just have to drill two suitable holes that meet and that start in the right places. <S> This shouldn't be too hard. <A> Looking at the mdf/composite, I don't think you'd have much success just screwing into it directly. <S> You need to screw through it into something solid. <S> So as long as you're not too fussy on how it looks: Remove the original fixings Get a lump of real wood, where the end face is 90 degrees to the side face Screw through from the outside into the wood, from both pieces of mdf/composite. <S> i.e. it goes <S> screw head - original bed piece - proper wood <A> I'd first look at replacing both side rails with something more substantial. <S> If you're handy, you could reuse the hardware that came with the bed for easy disassembly. <S> Otherwise use lag screws, properly piloted, to mount new 2x6 lumber rails. <S> Seal and paint to match. <S> If you want to retain these rails, I'd sister a length of 1x4 or 2x4 along the inside of the damaged rail. <S> Use construction adhesive and suitable screws to mount it to the inside face, taking care to not drill completely through the finished outer face. <S> Then use lag or construction screws to mount the lumber to the headboard leg from the outside. <S> You could also use a steel angle to mount it to the headboard from the inside.
|
The metal bolt and nut you have are typical of flat-pack furniture. I would consider doing the following: Replace the damaged rail with a piece of wood of similar species and dimensions. If the existing rail is some sort of composite/laminate/chipboard, it likely may not be feasible to repair in this way.
|
How much indoor condensation is too much? We recently bought a 1939 wooden house in California. I don't know if the windows are original but they sure aren't new. We're in a pretty mild climate, so we might get a morning frost from time to time but that is as cold as it gets. We keep the thermostat around 63° (17°) during the day and off entirely at night -- the sellers' thermostat was broken and wouldn't move off 70° (21℃) so I'm guessing they kept the house a lot warmer. I've noticed that in the morning all of our windows are fogged. That seems to clear over the day and we don't get pooling or drips. So I'm wondering if we need to do more to reduce the humidity? I read this question, about exterior condensation: How much condensation is okay on storm windows? But I'm concerned about indoor condensation. <Q> If it only fogs and don't run off, I consider that normal for non-insulated glass. <A> Aside from the condition of the windows themselves (wooden ones will tolerate moisture worse than vinyl certainly) the thing to watch for is indoor relative humidity going above 60% which puts it in the range where pathogens and mold can thrive. <S> Choosing no climate control overnight can cause this quite often since a comfortable 50% humidity at a daytime temp of 75F (dewpoint 55F) can quickly become a dangerous 80% RH if the indoor temp is allowed to drop to 62F (same dewpoint, 55F). <S> I would recommend observing with an inexpensive humidity monitor and using either a dehumidifier or simply heating the home to prevent the RH% from reaching a dangerous level. <S> The possibility of condensation in hidden areas (i.e. in the exterior walls) is also quite possible if there are particular areas that allow air to escape (warm moist indoor air will condense on the cold insides of the walls before fully leaving the home). <S> If your home is "Drafty" this can be another huge risk. <A> That it is fogging up means that the window pane drops in temperature to below the dew point. <S> Your windows could be good window, they just aren't enough to prevent that outcome in your climate. <S> The better solution is to add more layers. <S> If the window is a single pane, replace it with a double pane window. <S> If the window is a double pane, add a storm window to the exterior. <S> Storm windows condensate on the inside side, but drip to the drainage tray of the window. <S> They increase the insulation of the window by a lot by limiting cold air from the outside. <S> If the window already has a storm window you could upgrade to a three pane window on the inside. <S> Insane expensive yes, but effective. <S> Of course the cheap solution is to get a window sealing kit, and cover the outside and/or inside with plastic. <S> Temperature wise a layer of plastic works as well as a single pane window. <S> Just more temporary. <S> Also make sure you are actually using the ventilation fans in the kitchen and bathroom. <S> Properly used ventilation around water sources will keep the humidity in check in most houses.
|
If the windows are original to the house and are single pane and not insulated glass units, you are going to have a lot of condensation on the inside on cold days.
|
Why does the breaker trip on my new low-power lighting circuit? I added 10 recessed lights in the kitchen (adding approximately 50 feet of wire), which draw 14 watts each (total 140 watts). A two way switch controls 4 lights, another two way switch controls another 4 lights. The remaining two lights have their own switches. There are another 7 lights on the same circuit (in the garage, deck, laundry room, etc.) and all of them use LEDs. The total load shouldn’t be more than 500 watts. All these lights on a 15 amp breaker. The issue is that when I switch on one of the foursome lights, the breaker trips. What could be the problem? Overloaded circuit? There are only 1 Black, 1 White and 1 ground where I connected one of the foursome lights. The other connection has 2 red, 2 black, 2 white and 2 ground. I might have connected there incorrectly. <Q> What could be the problem? <S> It could be that you miswired a switch so that it creates a short-circuit in one position. <S> Am I overloading the circuit? <S> No, the total load of 500 Watts is not enough to overload a 15 Amp circuit. <S> At 110 Volts, 500 Watts is only 4.5 Amps. <A> There're 17 lights on that circuit, 13 work fine. <S> There's a group of 4 lights, connected to their own switch, which trips the breaker. <S> I suggest you first remove those 4 bulbs to rule out a defective bulb. <S> Flip the switch to test. <S> It is possible that maybe what you thought was a switch box was wired to be an outlet. <S> Your switch would then short the power. <S> I suggest you remove that switch and connect a standard receptacle instead. <S> Then plug something in that receptacle and see if it's powered. <S> On a different note, I suggest you install a GFCI on that 15A circuit, because it powers wet locations. <A> I agree with @RedGrittyBrick: <S> the circuit breaker should not trip because of the intended load. <S> If the four-pack lights have never worked since installation, the most likely explanation is that the two-way switching is wired incorrectly. <S> Probably the traveler is (incorrectly) wired to ground somewhere. <S> See this answer for a correct wiring diagram.
|
It could be that the miswiring occured elsewhere (in a junction box, a light fitting, etc) A 15 amp breaker should be good for 1440 watts for continuous use or 1800 watts for non-continuous (up to two hours).
|
Is it safe to have an additional load before a switch first circuit? I have a circuit going to the bathroom that is a switch first. It's only load after the switch is a simple light and bathroom fan. Is it possible and safe to have an additional outlet before the switch that is independent of the light's on/off state? <Q> 2014 NEC, 210.11.C.3 Bathroom branch circuits. <S> 1 20 amp shall be provided and have no other outlets. <S> So it would be a code violation if not in the bathroom. <A> Go ahead and add it Since this receptacle is being installed to the bathroom general lighting branch circuit, and not the bathroom small appliance receptacle branch circuit, 210.11(C)(3) and its exception don't apply to it as that Code section deals with bathroom receptacle <S> branch circuits: (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. <S> In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). <S> Such circuits shall have no other outlets. <S> Exception: <S> Also, the exception doesn't come into play as the OP's bathroom receptacles don't share a branch circuit with the OP's bathroom lights. <A> The way I read the link below the 20-A circuit for one bathroom can have the receptacle, the lights and the fan all on the same circuit. <S> " <S> As long as no single load exceeds 10 A." <S> Of course a 1600 W hairdryer exceeds 10 A, but you could provide a 1200 W hairdryer and claim that is the intended load. <S> Picky, picky . . . <S> http://ecmweb.com/code-basics/branch-circuits-part-1 <S> See Fig. <S> 4. <S> Editing <S> But one cannot have a "non-bathroom" load (receptacle or otherwise) on the 20-A circuit for the bathroom receptacle. <S> Apparently one can have a single 20-A circuit that powers receptacles only in two (or more?!) <S> bathrooms . <S> . . <S> What the heck?
|
Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).
|
What to use to lower the computer noise in a wooden cabinet? I am looking for a good material for improving the sound-proofing my NAS which has 2x FANs of 120mm and 3-4 hard-drives. Most of the time the hardrives are those that are producing audible sounds, not the coolers. Due to the lack of space I think that I cannot put material that has more than 1cm deep, as I will run out of space. Please refrain from adding hints regarding reconfiguring the device or moving it to a different location, this question aims to address sound isolation of a small wooden (or particle board) like the one in the photo. <Q> The vibrations could be made even louder by the fact that it's on a shelf supported on its ends only - this could cause the sound to be even louder if the hard drives vibrate at a frequency that lines up with the normal mode of the shelf. <S> I would recommend the following: <S> See if the noise gets better by adding a support to the shelf that isn't just the ends. <S> Try holding it with your hand, or propping it up with a board to see if that helps reduce the sound. <S> If it does, look at adding support to the shelf. <S> Use rubber padded screws to attach the hard drive to the sled Put a rubber pad underneath the hard drive enclosure. <S> It may take some trial and error to figure out what helps and what doesn't, but the basic idea is to attenuate the transfer of the vibrations. <S> Or, you could just switch the drives to SSDs, or select drives that include built-in noise attenuation. <A> I am going to go against your advice and tell you the obvious - move it to another location. <S> For a NAS to be in a location near where people watch the media and to complain about the noise from it is not very smart. <S> Everything that kponz has in his answer is right but will probably have very negligible difference in the sound of the hard drives or fans. <S> Especially if you are 6 feet away. <S> Really the only thing you can do to get rid of the noise is to insulate the area in sound dampeners which will surely affect air flow, which will make the hard disks run hotter, which will kick on the fans, and make it even noisier. <S> There is a reason why (small) companies put their servers in a closet or lab. <S> They are noisy. <S> I used to get dirty <S> looks all the time when I was in dev and had a server under my desk. <S> You are asking for advice here but unwilling to take the best and most obvious advice - move your NAS to a closet or room that you don't care about the sound. <A> You mentioned in a comment that the noise wasn't as bad before you put the NAS inside the cabinet. <S> Given this, I suspect your cabinet is acting as kind of an echo chamber or megaphone, amplifying any sounds so they are much louder than they would be otherwise. <S> The solution is to put some sound-deadening material on the 4 inside sides of the box (though the bottom and top are probably the most important). <S> The thicker the better, but even a 5mm layer where the NAS is (and thicker elsewhere) would help. <S> Another solution would be to put a front on the cabinet. <S> You'd want to put an intake fan, or a set of holes or mesh (with a filter), to allow for adequate airflow.
|
If most of the noise is coming from the hard drives, rather than the fans, then you need to dampen the vibrations from transferring from the hard drive enclosure to the furniture. Add some velcro to each of the hard drive sleds You'll need to experiment a bit, but any foam or rubber like material should work.
|
Why is a screen used to sand drywall, but paper used to sand wood? A sanding screen is comprised of small holes: A sheet of sandpaper has a flexible paper backing: Despite using different methods of abrasion, the abrasiveness of both products is measured in grit . What are the functional differences between these two abrasives? Can they be used interchangeably? Should they? <Q> Gypsum drywall and <S> it's paper covering, spackle and joint compound <S> are much softer than wood (except perhaps balsa) and produce a lot of dust that clumps together and sticks to sandpaper, rather than falling off as wood shavings do. <S> The "holey" sanding sheets allow dust to fall through and therefore last longer on drywall. <S> However, they can be used interchangeably, if of the same grade, to achieve similar results, with the caveat that it might take more sanding sheets and more time if they're used at cross-purposes. <S> For small jobs that may not matter. <A> Drywall screen doesn't load up as quick, and will tend to remove more material, than the same relative grit of paper backed. <S> It is also much easier to create scratches, while you sand; so some people will use screen on the first couple of coats, then paper for the finish sanding. <S> Drywall screen tends to be more expensive as well, but you can use both sides. <S> It's also ideal for pole sanding, when you don't have a lot of leverage, in hard to reach areas. <A> Aside from generic less clogging, there's highly specific drywall tool less clogging (and less dust getting free) with a vacuum sanding head, which can pull the dust right through the screen.
|
I use screens on wood with some regularity - they work better than normal sandpaper for some things, as far as I can tell - either hold up longer or clog less, or sand a bit faster.
|
How is a a two phase, three wire, grounding plug such as a NEMA 6-20P safe to use? I'm looking to use a piece of commercial equipment in my home, and I've been reading about AC current and circuits. I currently have access to an old style non grounding 10-30 style plug, which I understand is unsafe to adapt this device to plug into, because it has no ground. I've been reading that during normal operation, current is supposed to use the neutral as a return path, and in the event of a neutral fault, ground is supposed to become the return path, which trips the breaker. My question is, if the 6-20 plug doesn't have a neutral, and only has two hots and a ground, doesn't that mean that the ground wire is used as the return path, and the stainless enclosure of this appliance is ungrounded? How is this safe? EDIT: The outlet I currently have is for an older dryer, and is a NEMA 10-30. The plug for the new device is a NEMA 6-20p, and it's for an induction cook top. <Q> NEMA 6-20 (hot-hot-ground) is for 240v circuits not requiring a neutral. <S> Some motors or perhaps a heating element. <A> NEMA 10-30 is a 125/250 volt 30 ampere connector without a ground, consisting of two hot and one neutral conductor. <S> NEMA 6-20 is a 250 volt 20 ampere connector with a ground, consisting of two hot and a grounding conductor. <S> To answer the question you asked... <S> No. <S> If there's no neutral, the current will only flow on the hots. <S> unless you connect the neutral from the equipment to ground, in which case you're doing it wrong. <S> Just to put it out there, NEMA 14-30 is a 125/250 volt 30 ampere connector with a ground. <S> If the equipment requires two hots a neutral and a ground (120/240V), you're going to want to use a connector with four terminals (hot,hot,neutral, ground). <S> If the equipment only needs two hots (240V), you can use a connector with three terminals (hot, hot, ground). <S> If the equipment requires a 30 ampere circuit, you're going to use a connector that's rated for 30 amperes. <A> The neutral is for returning current for circuits which need 120V in part or in full. <S> It is not required for 240V machines. <S> It has nothing to do with an equipment safety ground. <S> In other words, neutral is not ground . <S> Neutral is just another conductor. <S> It has a different name than "hot" merely because it happens to be near ground potential. <A> I've been reading that during normal operation, current is supposed to use the neutral as a return path While that statement is correct, it is also incomplete. <S> Think about it this way. <S> A US standard 120 volt circuit is like a guy cutting down a tree using a hack saw. <S> The guy is the live wire and he delivers power to the device, the saw. <S> The neutral wire is the empty space on the other side of the tree where the saw sticks out; if the empty space didn't exist then the saw couldn't move. <S> A US standard 240 volt circuit is like 2 guys cutting down a tree with a saw that has handles on either end. <S> Both guys are live wires pulling the saw, but taking turns. <S> Their movements are out of phase. <S> No neutral is needed because when one guy is pulling, the other guy is pushing. <S> and in the event of a neutral fault, ground is supposed to become the return path, which trips the breaker <S> No. <S> This is wrong. <S> It sounds like you've incorrectly summarized what can cause a breaker to trip, and the purpose of a ground wire. <S> Overcurrent : If too much current flows out of a breaker, it will trip. <S> That will trip a GFCI breaker or device. <S> Arc fault : When a wire breaks, it can cause a spark. <S> If the wires remain close enough, a continuous spark (or arc) can be maintained. <S> Arcs send out radio frequency noise that can be detected at the breaker, which will then trip. <S> The purpose of the ground wire is not to cause a trip, but to instead provide a better path for the electricity to flow if, for example, the case of a metal appliance become electrified because of a broken wire. <S> Since your body presents a higher resistance to electricity than a copper wire, the ground wire will take the majority of the current, thereby sparing you the brunt of the shock.
|
Ground fault : If the current flowing out of the breaker on the live wire does not match the current flowing back in through the neutral, then it must be going somewhere else, like through you. If a neutral is required for the equipment you wish to connect you cannot use the NEMA 6-20 configuration. Without knowing what the equipment requires, there's no way to tell you what you need. The presence of ground is what you should consider safe.
|
Removal Asbestos Siding or Cover Looking at a house that appears to have asbestos cement siding. I'm wondering if this is something I can do myself with care. I've read the following. Disturb as little as possible.Don't Crack tilesWear a suit and respiratorUse a vacuum with HEPA filter when neededWrap the tiles in plastic and tape.Lay plastic on the ground I wondering if I follow all these rules if I can do it myself. As i understand it, you can also cover the siding, but some claim that nailing through can be worse than removing. <Q> This is not rocket science. <S> Some keys: <S> Keep area wet. <S> Make sure that no one else is near the area. <S> Make sure to bag them properly. <S> Make sure you vacuum all loose particles with vac plus hepa filter. <S> Make sure you bring materials to proper place. <S> For instance 6-7 years ago I was doing a home and the only hazardous waste facility nearby <S> was charging me an outrageous price per bag. <S> To the point where I might as well paid 8k to have someone do it. <S> Well obviously the remediation and waste companies were in cahoots. <S> But I have had to travel a good 75-100 miles to dump waste <S> and I have seen laws around this sort of practice. <S> But you are talking about a very high revenue and highly regulated industry. <S> And most of the regulations are almost meaningless as they aren't actually geared to do anything to someone who doesn't follow them <S> , they just want to make sure you paid to be "trained" to follow them. <S> Note: <S> Several remediation companies in my area will no longer do work for me. <S> After charging me a ton of money for removal of things like asbestos or lead paint I would go on my state's website to find that they didn't follow the very basic rules the state outlined. <S> So I gave them the choice between me sending them to the state or not paying and they chose me not pay. <S> Just saying there is a need to do this stuff right <S> but it is an obnoxious industry. <S> It would be very easy for the state to say - here are the gloves, clothing, mask, plastic for the tent, whatever you need for each situation and then a person could decide to do it or not. <S> Most of the remediation people we get are contractors that passed a two day class or have been with the company less than 6 months. <S> So yes anyone can do this if you follow guidelines and rules. <S> Here is the website for Missouri asbestos removal . <S> Other states have similar sites - some better some worse. <A> Above posters are correct in suggesting that removal and repair are easy if done sensibly..... <S> Some states and minicipalities allow significant handling and removal by a homeowner, others don't. <S> In addition, some states require that volumes of asbestos waste above a specified limit go to HazWaste landfills (which may only allow disposal from certified contractors). <S> Check your community's hazardous materials website and ask questions before you get started; all you need is some cranky and ill-informed neighbor accusing you of contaminating the neighborhood with your DIY project. <A> @KnobScratcher pointed this out, but it's worth repeating: <S> In the more populated areas, your problem will be disposal. <S> There are a potentially huge list of issues here. <S> The simplest and easiest thing for you to do is to take a sample and send it off to be tested. <S> In the U.S., your municipal or county government will be able to provide you with information about where to have it tested. <S> (Typically, the inspectors will know a lab, or know someone who did it once and put you in touch with them.) <S> This test should be pretty cheap, no matter where you live. <S> Asbestos isn't that dangerous in a lab setting, nor all that hard to recognize. <S> Once you know <S> it's asbestos, think about how you're going to get rid of it. <S> But if you take it down yourself, what are you going to do? <S> It won't be trash - it's construction debris. <S> Depending on where you live, you might find it's as expensive or moreso to pay someone to dispose of it as to pay a contractor to remove it. <S> This is because "dispose of these unknown bags" is riskier than "take this down, and dispose of it knowing what it contains." <S> Trash men, landfill workers, etc. <S> Don't just "hide it" in the trash and try to sneak it onto the weekly truck- <S> you'll be endangering a lot of other people if you do.
|
In some cases you may work your way around a lot of these restrictions, but you'd better know what those restrictions are beforehand. Make sure that you are wearing a proper mask and cover up. Finally, keep in mind that there are a lot of people working in your refuse chain. HOWEVER- depending on your state and city, there are limits on how much asbestos material you can personally remove and dispose of. If you pay someone (which will be expensive), they'll haul it away.
|
How to unlock a locked interior door? The door to the bathroom in my house was accidentally locked and I can't figure out how to unlock it from the outside. The knob has 3 holes on the outside: The hole in which on a normal doorknob you would insert a key, screwdriver, etc. and turn to unlock. On this particular knob in the hole, there is a silver, metal, cone-shaped plate that can be pushed in (but not rotated - there is no kind of groove to place a key in and turn). When you push it in, it goes about an inch in and you can feel a spring pushing back but it doesn't seem to change anything. A small circular hole on the cylindrical portion of the knob that connects to the door. It isn't on the base that actually touches the door, but on the cylinder connecting the spherical knob and the base. You can see the metal turning through it as you turn the knob, but there isn't a full hole to the inside of the knob. A rectangular hole on the same portion as the small circular hole in #2. It looks like there is some kind of metal tab that should be able to be moved, but applying force in any direction has not had any results. I've tried every combination of push, pull, twist, push in hole #1, #2 and #3 I can think of with no luck. Does anyone know what kind of knob I'm talking about and how to unlock it? Here are pictures of the knob: http://imgur.com/a/io4F4 <Q> You're on the outside of the door, and given both the unlock mechanism appears to not be working, and the "credit card" method don't work, here's another option: remove the hinge pins and take the whole door off. <S> You just need a hammer and a screw driver (or nail punch, or nail, or something similar) and then push the hinge up from the bottom. <S> You'll probably want a second person to help just in case the door falls over while you're working at the hinges. <A> Looks like you're at least stuck on the opening side of the door -- which means the latch isn't blocked by a stop. <S> You should be able to break in by pushing the latch in. <S> Slide something narrow down above the latch between the door and the jamb, such as a credit card or metal ruler. <S> Come down at about a 45° angle and it should push the latch in, allowing you to open the door. <A> Bathroom doors are for courtesy, not security, and are designed to be easily defeated. <S> The solitary purpose of that hole on the end of the knob, and the button behind it, is to unlock the door. <S> Work that option quite firmly, straight in , with the stoutest thing that'll fit in the hole. <S> If that doesn't work, into the trash it goes . <S> It shouldn't be long before you gain enough access to the mechanism to either spring the lock, or slide the latch. <S> Throw the bits out and off to the big-box to buy a $10 bathroom lockset.
|
Since the lock-set is beyond saving, you can poke at the other holes in an effort to release the knob handle from the shaft, and otherwise destructively disassemble it in any manner that won't harm the door or trim.
|
Any fabrics that block visible light without blocking IR/Bluetooth? I'm wondering what materials would block visible light (emitted from LEDs, for example) but would not impede IR signals or Bluetooth. Context: I'd love to block all the blinky lights on my home theater setup without invalidating any of my remotes and PS4 controllers (or wifi devices). Ideally I'm looking for a fabric of some sort, but open to other suggestions. I'm thinking it would be cute to install a pull curtain over the part of my shelving where I want to block the visible lights, thus why I'm inquiring after fabrics. If there's a glass or other material that might work, then I might consider a door of some sort. Any help/insight would be appreciated. Note that I am aware of IR repeaters and am not interested in installing one. Plus my understanding is that it wouldn't help at all with my PS4 controllers. EDIT: Many have suggested I just "tape" over the lights themselves. I really would prefer not to do this, as I find value in being able to see the lights easily when I need to debug an issue. For example, one piece of equipment is an HDMI switcher where the lights indicate which input source is currently selected; it doesn't switch automatically with the Apple TV I have connected to it, so I would need to see the lights to determine if I need to switch the input. I need to do this before consuming media, not during, thus why I'm interested in a fabric or a door that can conceal the lights temporarily. Another item in this space is my cable modem, so same deal: if my internet is acting wonky, I want to see those lights easily. But if my internet is fine, I don't want to see them while watching a movie or playing PS4. <Q> Unless you get metal lined material or mirrored glass doors the radio won't have an issue. <S> And to be honest even if you did it would probably still work fine by going through the wood or whatever the sides of the shelves are made of unless they are solid metal. <S> Any solid fabric is going to block the IR. <S> You could potentially go with a fairly lose weave fabric so that the light can get through the holes. <S> The remote will probably still work but you will also still be able to see the blinking lights. <S> If the amp is right at the front of the shelf you could potentially put a small hole in the curtain in line with the IR receiver in the amp to allow the remote to get through. <S> But if there is any separation between the two you end up either needing a big hole or the remote only works from one direction. <S> Some will block IR, some won't. <S> The problem is being able to test the material without having to first buy some doors made out of it. <S> You could do a test, get some of the stick on limo tint plastic, it's fairly cheap, and see if your IR remote works through that with sufficient range. <S> If so then get some plain glass doors and add the tint. <S> That wouldn't completely block the blinking lights but would make them a lot dimmer. <S> The other option is the more direct approach, put something over the blinking lights. <S> You could use something solid like a sheet of black plastic in front of everything with a cutout where the IR receiver is. <S> Or you could use a dark colored tape and put it only over the lights. <S> Visually not always the nicest approach but <S> once everything in there is dark then you could put some fairly transparent glass doors over the front and it wouldn't be visible. <A> Visible-light blocking IR-passing "black" plastic (plexiglas, etc) is very common, found in almost all IR receivers. <S> Finding a sheet of it might be a bit more work (and let's not make this a shopping question, which would be off-topic - go hunting for yourself), but hardly impossible. <S> Infrared transmitting (IRT) plastic seems to be one good search term. <S> Infrared Bandpass is another. <S> As mentioned multiple times over, won't have any impact to speak of on Bluetooth radio signals. <A> See if you can get IR filter glass. <S> Used to be a ? <S> Wratten 87? <S> filter would screen out most all light except for IR. <S> We used to use those with IR film and it would even "muffle" strobe flashes - you'd only see a dull glow when they went off. <S> Bluetooth <S> I believe uses 2.4G radio energy so metallics or water screens that, but not glass. <S> If you can't find the glass, there used to be "gels" that were a plastic sort of substance that you could try to apply to the back of regular glass. <A> If you have glass over the front, you could install a window darkener and then add an Infrared extender ( example ) that would repeat the IR command to the components that are hidden.
|
A dark tinted glass or plastic may be your best option.
|
How to sand, stain and seal wood filler in a knothole I have this knot hole in the floor: I want to fill it with wood filler and then sand, stain and seal it. I have a few questions though: How do I find out what sealant was used before? I assume it Polyurethane. But was it oil or water based? And if I use water based on an oil based Polyurethane, will this cause problems? What's the direction of the wood fibers (wood grain or whatever it's called)? Is it in the direction of the length of the wood board? How do I stain the wood after sanding down the wood filler and the area immediately around it? I mean, it's two different colors. How would that work? What grain of sand paper do I need to use for the sanding? Is there anything else that I need to know before starting? Will the hole deteriorate if I leave it as is? Thanks. <Q> How do I find out what sealant was used before? <S> The answer to that is as you'd guess <S> ... look for product packaging, ask the installer or builder, etc. <S> If it was a prefinished floor it probably has a proprietary coating that includes aluminum oxide for hardness. <S> In any case it probably doesn't matter. <S> I'd simply use gloss urethane for this little patch. <S> What's the direction of the wood fibers (or grain)? <S> You're correct that it's technically parallel to the length of the board. <S> Even though there appears to be a curve in the grain direction, that's mostly a result of the type of cut made in the board. <S> How do I stain the wood after sanding down the wood filler and the area immediately around it? <S> Find a dark walnut or other stain that matches the darkest part of the knothole, and use a small art brush or cotton swab to stain just the patch. <S> Actually, you may find a very dark wood filler that doesn't require staining. <S> You want to simulate a knot, not try and hide it. <S> Also, you should avoid sanding the existing finish. <S> I'd approach this repair from a hole-only standpoint. <S> Do your best to avoid disturbing the finish on the adjacent area, as it will be very difficult to hide. <S> I'd go so far as to apply masking tape to the area to preserve it. <S> What grain of sand paper do I need to use for the sanding? <S> The "grit" you'll use depends on how you apply the patch. <S> Ideally your putty knife will leave a fairly smooth surface. <S> Finish with 120 and 180/220 before sealing. <S> Is there anything else that I need to know before starting? <S> Will the hole deteriorate if I leave it as is? <S> However, you shouldn't see serious damage unless it's susceptible to table legs, etc. <A> Any sanding and attempt at "touching up" the finish after sanding will most likely be more of an issue than the knot hole itself. <S> The dark ring around the knot hole may be the only weak spot, if that. <S> The rest of the light colored floor beyond that is as durable as the rest of the floor <S> These are available in many colors and the color you see with the stick is the color it dries to. <S> There are instructional videos online on how to use burn in sticks that get down to great detail but for a filler like you are looking for with no sanding, I would use a heat gun a putty knife and lacquer thinner. <S> You can also use a log lighter or butane lighter in a pinch. <S> Heat the stick a bit as well as the putty knife. <S> I have pushed the hot lacquer stick into holes to get it in place. <S> You can use the hot putty knife to do the same, it will take more time. <S> With the very warm but not hot putty knife slick the top of the hole off flush with the rest of the floor and use lacquer thinner to lightly dampened cloth to wipe the smear from around the hole. <S> As a precaution, do test a spot on your floor in a closet or someplace like that to test if the finish will hold up under the cleaning of lacquer thinner <A> You've gotten bad advice about this hole. <S> I believe the answer you accepted the first time missed your statement that it's 3mm across, because nobody in their right mind would suggest using a Dutchman to patch a tiny hole. <S> You also don't need a ton of sanding/refinishing for something that small, it's only two growth rings wide <S> so the photo is clearly well-zoomed! <S> In your case I'd suggest a wax pencil. <S> Not the artist variety, the wood filling ones. <S> They're colored sticks that you smoosh in the hole then rub flat with the surface. <S> The best bet is probably to match the color of the knot, so the patch just looks like a knot. <S> The burn-in stick is a viable option too. <S> They're widely used by professional refinishers. <S> It seems overkill here though. <S> Color Putty is a little more user friendly, no heating and you can mix shades to color match. <S> By the way if that's a prefinished floor the finish is most likely some kind of conversion varnish. <S> And keep in mind that you can dig out the filler with a toothpick before it hardens if it looks wrong, sanding is a lot harder to undo.
|
I would use a lacquer "burn in stick" although it take a bit of expertise, it cleans up with lacquer thinner, which should not remove any finish off the floor when used in moderation. Just to reiterate, seek to repair only the hole , and not the surrounding finished surface. Bring the picture with you to the hardware store so you can color match. Take Jack's excellent advice and don't mess with it. That's hard to say, not knowing the use of the floor, but it's likely that the edge of the hole will eventually degrade due to foot traffic.
|
Preparing for laying ceramic tile - clean up after removing vinyl tile My bathroom had 12" square vinyl tile squares which I chipped off. There is some residue of adhesive left on the concrete. Do I need to try to remove it? The floor scraper I have is not working. Will a solvent help? I am laying large ceramic tile with thinset. Here is a photo with a bit of the tile on the left under the commode, showing the floor. <Q> I have successfully used orange oil to soften the adhesive holding vinyl squares. <S> I used it undiluted in just enough quantity to soften the adhesive. <S> Then I scraped up the softened adhesive with a floor scraper frequently scraping off the floor scraper with a 3 or 4" putty knife into a trash can. <S> I then went over it again with more orange oil wiping with paper towels. <S> Finally I used an electric floor cleaner and mopped. <S> I was not present for this; I was out of town. <S> (The serious professional installation specifications for ceramic tile state that fresh concrete is not to be finished with a metal trowel prior to ceramic tile installation.) <A> Another way to get a porous top, is to etch the concrete. <S> Its best outdoors since it gives off fumes, but a few fans to exhaust the room <S> and you should be good. <S> Check for this at a hardware store. <S> I have used muriatic acid etch for many things, patio, sidewalk, driveway, even to stabilize hot tub ph. <A> Goo Gone goes through this stuff like butter. <S> Just make sure you read and follow all the safety instructions.
|
There is an acid etching solution you can spray on and mop off. The concrete was still glazed and the tile installer used some kind of floor grinder to roughen the floor.
|
upgrade circulator pump in closed hot water heating system? boiler is Weil McLain Gold CGa. current circ pump is Taco 007-F5, installed on return side, pumping water down, and into the boiler. I'm pretty sure this pump is under-sized, as the specs list a max head of 10 feet, and this system is used for heating the second floor unit of a 2-unit apartment. vertical distance from boiler to 2nd floor is wall over 10 feet, more like 16 feet. the apt has baseboard elements, but the temp in the unit never gets above 62-65. boiler temp is set at 220. I'm looking to replace the 007-F5 with a Taco 009-F5, with a listed max head of 35ft. BUT, the 009 has a max flow of 10 GPM, compared to the 007's 23 GPM. Does this "upgrade" make sense?? Thanks in advance. .jim. <Q> The Maximum head of the pump is not to push the water up to the radiators, it is to overcome the friction loss of the flow of the water in the system. <S> The water in the system is held up to the highest radiator by the water pressure in the system (look at the pressure gauge mounted somewhere on the boiler) <S> A rule of thumb is 12 psig for a 1 story house, 15 psig. <S> for a 2 story house and 20 psig for a 3 story house. <S> Turn the boiler system off, go to the highest rad and open the vent. <S> If you get water out then the pressure on the boiler is okay. <S> If you can't get the temperature high enough check for water in the rads or baseboard units, vent all the air that may be in the heating elements. <S> If all this fails call a boiler co. to fix the problem. <S> One more thing, if you screw up and install too large of a pump you will get noise in the piping or radiation. <A> Try these ideas: The pressure in the system should not rise to 30 psig.when heat is being called; check expansion tank. <S> If it is a bladder tank , You need to raise the start pressure within 1 or 2 psig.of the new pressure. <S> If it is not a bladder type then the tank is near flooded (too full) or too small. <S> For the correct pressure setting I would measure the distance from the radiation down to the pressure gauge, divide by 2, and add about 2-3 psig to that number and that becomes the cold start pressure. <S> Also check the pressure gauge and see if it is calibrated in pounds or in feet. <S> Some gauges are in feet, which means that the 22 is actually closer to 10 psig. <S> The gauge may be out of calibration and need replaced. <S> On the pump, Too hot too touch is probably about 130 F.. <S> Not too hot for a close coupled pump and motor. <S> If you really are interested in the working temp look on the motor for the temperature rise, and add that to the ambient temperature. <S> If its centigrade convert to degrees F. <S> I should have asked earlier but is the copper tubing in the pump and radiation, 3/4" or larger as it should be and how many feet of baseboard radiation is installed? <S> I still find it hard to believe that the pump is too small. <S> Does the boiler heat only this apartment, is a series loop installation, (1 inlet and 1 outlet). <S> Let me know what you find out. <A> If the existing pump turns out to be too small to provide adequate heating, I would return the 009 pump,which has a lot of head, and instead purchase a 0015 IFC 1/20 hp. <S> 3- speed taco pump. <S> The 3 speeds selected at the pump. <S> You get 3 choices to provide the best possible results. <S> Flows are approximately 11 -15 <S> -16 <S> + feet of head and 11 - 16 - 18 gpm. <S> This pump would work great on your system. <S> I checked pricing of pumps at "supplyhouse.com" and found that the 009 pump costs about $230.00 while the 0015 costs about $85.00. <S> The 009 pump costs so much more because of the high head of the pump.
|
The installed pump should be large enough for your heating system.
|
Should I install wood flooring under the closet door track? I want to install wood vinyl flooring in my bedroom. Do I remove the closet track and run the flooring under the track or stop it at the track. <Q> Really the only concern is clearance for the door. <S> I'd say it's almost always going to be a better result to remove the track and install the floor. <S> It'll most likely look better, be easier to clean, and be easier if you ever have to replace the door/track (eg: if new track is narrower or wider). <S> When you say "wood vinyl flooring" everyone seems to be assuming you meant laminate or hardwood flooring, but I suspect you actually mean vinyl flooring with a wood print, which might be either click-together style or come in a sheet: <S> This adds a minimal amount of height, and depending on the doors it might work or you might be able to adjust the doors (there are usually ways to adjust the positioning of rollers). <S> If you're not sure, it would be worthwhile to "dry fit" part of the new floor in with the doors on the track before you fully commit to this. <S> If the door can't fit, you have a few options: <S> Leave a gap in the flooring, leaving the track in place <S> See if it's possible to adjust the top part of the track to raise it up by the amount the flooring adds. <S> I did something similar to this that might give you an idea . <A> If you want wood flooring in the closet, it's quicker to remove the track and floor into the closet, and replace it later. <S> If you want carpet (or any other flooring) in the closet, leave the track (assuming its not fixed through carpet), and use it as a boundary. <A> If you floor under the track, this could raise the track up to a point of being too high, thus not allowing the doors to open/close. <S> A vinyl floor could be up to 1/2 inch increase as well. <S> Best bet to go to the track and stop. <S> If you want the same floor in the closet, start a run again after the track. <S> If you have to cut the material to stop at the track, use the other piece of the cut material to start your inside run. <S> Saves on material.
|
Replace the door with a shorter one or without a track (only makes sense if you were thinking of replacing it anyway) A laminate floor could add up to 3/4 inch height to your floor.
|
removing grout from very narrow gaps between tiles? Wanting to re-grout wall tiles in the bathroom, I realize that the gaps between tiles are very uneven from area to area, and are sometimes too narrow for either the oscillating tool's 1/8 inch blade or manual grout blade which has approximately the same thickness. Even the 1/16 blade would not cut it in all places. Trying a thin screwdriver or another pointy metal tool immediately made a chip on the tile edge. What would be the recommended way to proceed here? <Q> I always use a Stanley knife with lots of new blades when doing re grouting jobs. <A> <A> Use a hacksaw blade. <S> Specifically: <S> Get a old hacksaw blade <S> break it in half mount the half in a mini hacksaw frame, broken edge protruding <S> This gives you a cheap and effective grout rake, with a blade 0.7mm wide, less than half the width of the narrowest shop-bought grout rake. <S> I just removed the grout from my shower like this and it worked brilliantly. <A> One way to proceed is to remove all the tiles and then install new ones using a better quality installation technique to get uniform gaps between the tiles. <S> This approach also allows for: The possibility to update the tile backer to the most modern methods to ensure no leaks and inspect for old mold in the walls. <S> Selecting tile that may be more pleasing or modern. <S> With the walls open you have the option to replace any plumbing fixtures that protrude through the tile.
|
A hand-held hacksaw blade is also bendy enough to remove grout from corners. If the tiles themselves a NON POROUS I applied muriatic acid and let it eat the grout and thereafter flush it out with a pressure sprayer
|
What material is this toilet water supply line? Photos of my toilet water supply line, which is the part below the valve: Without Flash [ With Flash Based on the appearance, it only fits the description of galvanized iron (which is apparently the same as galvanized steel). However, based on numerous sources, galvanized steel has been mostly phased out in the 1960s, but my house was built in the 1990s (in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, if that matters). I want to cut this pipe in order to install a quarter-turn valve with compression connections, but I am unable to find any close quarters tubing cutters that can cut galvanized iron/steel. So my questions are: What material might the toilet water supply line be? Should I attempt to cut a galvanized iron/steel line with a cutter that is meant for everything but iron/steel (E.g. The Ridgid 40617 cutter states it is for "hard and soft copper, aluminum, brass and plastic tubing", but doesn't state iron/steel)? Update 1 So, I scraped the back of the tubing with a file as one user suggested as shown here , and it appears to be copper. Also, a neodymium magnet was not attracted to it, as another user suggested in trying to do so. <Q> That is either a painted or plated 1/2" copper line. <S> If it is plated, the plating is failing or failed. <S> Either way take a strip of emery cloth and clean it up before adding the compression fitting <A> If you are uncertain, scratch the surface with something like sandpaper, steel wool, file etc. <S> You will most likely see the same color as newly minted pennies. <S> If you see copper, your question number 2 is of no concern. <S> If it does not show copper, then you can always use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the pipe. <S> Of course, no matter how you cut the pipe, make certain that the water is turned off up-stream. <A> If you cut the pipe, you will have solder or shark bite a replacement. <S> Are you sure it's not just threaded onto the pipe? <S> Hex sides on the valve are a small give away that it could just be a threaded pipe and valve.
|
It looks like copper with blue green patina, the result of ordinary oxidation, hiding the characteristic orange color of fresh copper.
|
Can you use a router like a saw to cut wood? Can one use a router to cut wood in a similar way that a jigsaw would cut wood? What are the upsides and downsides of using a router to cut wood? It seems simple enough, but then again, I've never used either machine. I would think that you could just set the router to a deeper threshold than you usually would, in order to cut through the full depth of the piece. Or perhaps you could flip the piece over after routing one side and finish the cut by routing on the underside. I ask because it's of course less costly to have one router than to have one router and one jigsaw, particularly for a sporadic user like myself. <Q> It's entirely possible, and often reasonable. <S> Without going as far as buying a CNC router (handy, but expensive) <S> simple jigs and sleds <S> permit cutting precisely circular holes (eat your heart out, jigsaws) and precisely straight edges (like a tablesaw with no need to use a jointer afterwards - indeed, many people with tablesaws use a router jig to joint boards if they don't also have a giant jointer.) <S> A different sort of sled allows a router to act as a surface planer, as well, and a variant allows use as a curved surface planer. <S> There are, of course, compromises. <S> You give up more waste in "saw" kerf. <S> You may need to take multiple cuts at increasing depth or you risk overloading, bogging down, and snapping the bit. <S> From personal experience, you don't want a low-quality router with poor bearings. <S> This is a tool where cheap can be expensive and expensive can be cheap. <S> And it is certainly true that having more money in router bits than even a good router costs is perfectly normal. <A> Jigging a router can be more complex and a router will usually cut out a much wider swath and create way more sawdust and wood chips. <S> The router will also cut much slower in thicker materials and has big learning curve issues regarding proper direction of cut. <S> When you start considering a router for cutting you will want the best quality router bits and even then they will still get dull when removing huge amounts of material. <S> I would venture to guess that the cost of router bits alone would very quickly out pace the cost of an entry level jig saw. <A> Of course you can use a router to cut through wood! <S> It's done all the time. <S> But, using a router to cut through wood is typically reserved to a CNC router . <S> For humans, a jigsaw would be easier to control. <A> The router is primarily used in conjunction with fences, jigs, held in place (router table) but hardly ever freehand. <S> A jigsaw is primarily used freehand following some outline, but hardly ever using a jig or held in place. <S> Just because you can doesn't mean you should. <S> Using a router freehand is difficult to control and somewhat dangerous - which may be an understatement. <S> I'm not talking about a trim router or Rotozip type tool, but a full size 1.5HP and greater router. <S> You cannot cut a 3/4 piece of wood in one pass - you will burn your router bit. <S> Not to mention the noise and amount of chips far surpasses that of a jig saw. <S> For instance, you have a template, you trace the template onto a piece of wood, you rough cut it out with a jig saw or band saw <S> and then you use the template and router to flush trim the rough cut edges in a single pass. <S> If you only used the router to cut out the templated piece, you would have to make multiple passes with the router, extending the bit a 1/4 or so at a time, cutting the full diameter of the bit each pass. <S> I would rather replace a jig saw blade then a router bit. <S> The right tool for the right job should be a wood workers mantra. <S> A router is not a saw and a saw is not a router. <A> You can use a router to cut wood, but it's not typically used the same way a jigsaw is. <S> A jigsaw is often used freehand. <S> A router is always used with a jig or pattern, except when doing edge work where the router bit will have a guide bearing, or you'll use a fence. <A> I am using a router to cut out a pattern on dozens of 4' by 8'plywood. <S> I broke a top bearing bit yesterday after 15 minutes. <S> I am going to continue this way for the small area because it will be quicker (and can plunge) than a jigsaw, but based on the advice here, I will start trying the jigsaw too, and the skill saw for the long straight cuts. <S> I will wind up spending about $100 on router bits, but it is doing a tremendous amount of work.
|
It can be done, but to use a router to cut wood is not optimum. It works great but it shreds and is tough going through.
|
How can I attach 1 3/8 pipe to 1 1/2 inch abs? I am trying to install a new vanity and the age of my house is killing me. The pipe coming out of the floor is 1 3/8 inch pipe. I have a new sink drain that is 1 1/4 inch so I have a trap adapter for that. Problem now is that I have to connect it to the other pipe. The only adapters I have found are for 1 1/4 inch. I don't even know is such an adapter exists. I can't seem to find anything online that is what I am looking for. What can I do to connect 1 1/2 inch abs to my 1 3/8 inch pipe? I have seen several cases of "There is no such thing as 1 3/8th inch pipe." If it helps, my house was built in the 50's and the pipe is labelled "galt brass". I live in Southeastern Ontario Canada if that helps at all. I will post a picture, with tape, once I am near a computer. <Q> Your pipe is 1" trade size. <S> It's very standard <S> and you'll have no trouble finding parts. <S> Actual size is somewhat larger than trade size. <S> (a rule of thumb is an extra 3/8", that works for common household sizes up to 2-1/2"). <S> Why? <S> Different materials and grades of pipes need different wall thicknesses to do the job. <S> However, pipe threads are always cut to the outside diameter of the pipe. <S> Needing to have a huge variety of slightly different pipe elbows and fittings would be completely crazy, and invite accident. <S> So they standardized outside-diameter . <S> Inside diameter varies with material and grade. <S> Result: <S> a 1" fitting will fit anything from Schedule 10 to the reactor grade stuff. <S> All 1" trade size pipes have an OD of 1.315". <S> Because of that, I'm entirely confident that your pipe is 1" trade size , regardless of some interesting questions about the material. <S> If you had asked ID, that would be a different kettle of fish... <S> The 1.315" size is based on the metallurgy of early pipe; in that day, the inside diameter actually was 1". <A> <A> At the guidance of a employee at a local hardware store I tried a 1 1/2 ABS to 1 1/4 Copper adapter . <S> The dimensions of that adapter were different then just a regular 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 adapter (which I previously tried). <S> Better when tightened of course. <S> After running water though it no leaks were observed.
|
The "trade size" is a weird thing that happens with pipe. So even though the pipe was measured at 1 3/8, the copper adapter fit near perfectly. Check hardware stores for an adapter. You might be able to use a rubber type that you can cinch down via the hose clamps.
|
Is a multi-wire branch circuit with shared neutral acceptable? I have been checking my house circuits and came across a run that is made up of 14/3 on 2 separate fuses, which branch off in the attic to two runs through the house. I don't like the idea of the neutral being shared throughout. I drew a picture of what I found and am wondering if the solution I have come up with looks ok to some of you professionals. And Hello from Nova Scotia. I thank you for any input in advance. <Q> As long as the circuits are on different phases there's a decent chance this is safe as is, but it's a bad idea to wire this way in a home and a good idea to fix it. <S> You can't be sure of what's behind the walls <S> but your solution might completely repair the situation and will be no worse. <S> Better to attach your new run to an outlet than a light. <S> If you use a light be aware that some lighting circuits are powered from the ceiling box, others are powered from the switch box. <S> Make sure to connect to an unswitched point in the circuit. <S> It is simpler and cheaper to reduce the number of neutrals running around the place by 1/2 or 2/3. <S> If using conduit and individual conductors it saves pulling extra neutrals for nothing. <S> But the key is that it has to be designed and maintained properly. <S> But in a home, those are terrible assumptions. <S> If one of the breakers on a circuit like this fails, and is replaced, and the new one is on the wrong phase (because the homeowner doesn't know it was done this way or <S> even a pro doesn't realize) then the neutral will be overloaded and the breakers won't protect it. <S> he's servicing or that there could be a dangerous voltage across a broken neutral during servicing. <A> What you're describing is a multi-wire branch circuit . <S> It's totally fine - I don't agree with the fear of them. <S> Even better, your neutral splits for good prior to the first receptacle or lamp. <S> That means you don't have several worries that often come with MWBCs. <S> For instance, you do not need to pigtail neutrals because all your outlets (including lamps) are downstream of the split. <S> If you removed the master B/R light and severed the neutral, that would not affect the bathroom et.al. <S> 's neutral. <S> In the US we have a "belt and suspenders" requirement that both sides be on a single shut-off switch, which turns off both sides together for maintenance. <S> I am being very specific: this is what the rule says. <S> It says nothing about a ganged-trip circuit breaker (though that is a convenient way to do it if you use circuit breakers). <S> Fuses are fine. <S> It's not about overcurrent but worker protection. <S> However any competent electrician working in the green box will recognize the MWBC split. <S> You absolutely do need to make sure <S> the two "hots" are punched down to separate 120V legs, so the neutral carries only the difference in current. <S> Measure the voltage between them; it must be 240V. <S> If it is 0 volts, that would mean the neutral would carry the total of both currents in both circuits, which could overload it by 100%. <S> If I were you, I'd continue the MWBC in service unless you feel a burning need to install AFCI breakers (this being the only reason I don't use MWBCs). <S> A plain GFCI receptacle works fine as long as it's downstream of the final split, which all your outlets are. <A> That type wiring is allowed in some locations but not where I live. <S> It is okay if the circuits sharing the 14-3 are from each side of the input buss. <S> In theory, the amperage draw on each circuit cancels the amperage draw on the shared neutral. <S> 10 amps on the left circuit, 8 amps on the right circuit, equals 2 amps on the neutral. <S> It saves the electrician a couple bucks but shows just who he is. <S> He would not do wiring for me.
|
If you need GFCI, use a receptacle and put it downstream of the split somewhere. Also, if a homeowner turns off one circuit to do maintenance he won't realize that there are live wires in the junction box All the circuits sharing a neutral have to be on different phases. If an installation is designed so that ALL its circuits are run this way, and if professional electricians do all the maintenance over the years and decades, this will work fine because everyone knows what's going on. I would not lose any sleep over a lack of ganged shut-off, since none of your outlets have both hots. The style of wiring you found is common in large commercial installations.
|
Where to place a radiator under a window seat? I have a bay window in which I want to build a window seat like this: However, a radiator is currently attached to the wall underneath the windows, with a radiator cover (the typical board with holes) covering the front, and a windowsill covering the top. I'm figuring that I could either leave the radiator on the wall and build the seat around it, with the same type of radio cover as the front of the bench, or I could pull the radiator off the wall and move it forward a bit to get it closer to the cover. This would allow me to use the space between the wall and the radiator for storage, and I presume the radiation of the heater would improve somewhat if it was closer to the cover. I figure I could also use some flexible PEX pipe to go back and forth on the wall a few times before connecting it to the radiator, so that there would be a heat source right under the wall, and the radiator would still be close to the front of the bench. What are the pros and cons of both configurations? Would both combat the cold air from the windows in roughly the same manner? Would the effect of moving the radiator forward be negligible in terms of improving radiation? <Q> If the existing radiator is not covered now and you want to cover it with a seat of any construction type <S> , it will drastically reduce it's heat output. <S> Remember cast iron radiators heat by both radiation and convection. <S> If you cover the radiator, you will loose the radiation aspect of that cast iron radiator greatly reducing it's heat output. <S> Radiators, were "made to be seen", and not covered. <S> So if you cover it you may have to add more heat output into the room. <S> This could be somewhat offset if all radiators were zoned. <S> This may not solve the problem but it could help. <S> I have seen many cases where covers were installed and the areas could not be heated to the desired temperature. <S> If your heating system is hot water, and not steam, the added heat required could come from cast iron baseboard radiation, which is still made, looks decent, and is very expensive. <S> Finned tube radiation, not usually installed in combination with a cast iron system, could be utilized if, and only if, the whole system is zoned. <S> On a steam system convectors and/or finned tube baseboard units made for a steam system could be utilized in addition to the now covered radiator, to provide the necessary additional heating for the room. <S> Zoning would not be required if the extra radiation were sized correctly. <S> I would be very careful in choosing the heating company you choose to do the required work. <S> Most residential heating companies are not schooled in steam. <S> Placement of the radiator under the cover will not greatly affect its heat output, correct installation will. <A> Make an air inlet at the bottom and outlet above the radiator on the top. <S> Some cool metal or wooden "gills" can be found I am sure at home depot. <A> You can do almost anything you want to do with covering the radiator with an enclosure as long as air can get in to the bottom and out the top of the enclosure so the convection air can flow up and over the radiator. <S> If you can see the face of the radiator now or as I previously wrote " made to be seen" and you cover the front of the radiator you will take away the" radiation affect" and greatly reduce it's ability to heat. <S> ( Think sitting in the sun or in the shade ). <S> Your idea of moving the radiator forward makes sense and will give you storage room, and may add to the heating output of the radiator by a slight amount. <S> Just make sure you have enough air flow in and out. <S> You could use the registers both on the bottom and the top. <S> Hopefully this helps with your plan; <S> GOOD LUCK
|
Also the cover would need to have a long register mounted directly above and be the full length of the radiator to allow for the convected air to escape.
|
What could be causing the washing machine waste pipe to overflow? I'm the opposite of knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing however I have done a fair amount of searching through forums to find an answer to my problem and unfortunately still have questions. To make it easier, I have taken a picture of the pipes as well as the actual waste hose behind my machine. The hose from the machine sits in what I believe is called the standpipe on the left and goes approximately half a foot down. I have taken apart the p bend (or u bend - still don't know the difference) and confirmed that there is no blockage. I have run a snake down and around all the pipes with no issues and also used some soda crystals just incase but water flows through the pipes easily. What I believe is the issue is that the output from the machine is producing water faster than it can travel through the pipes which are 40mm in diameter. I believe that if I removed the p bend and just replaced it with a 90° corner, it would work fine but obviously it's there for a reason and particularly with the pipes only a 6 feet from the drain, I'm very reluctant to do that. One more thing to point out is that on the right hand side, there is a pipe which I have capped off. I was wondering if that trapped air could be preventing the water flowing down as quickly and if I need to find some kind of air valve which may allow air out? As it stands, I have just put the waste hose into the sink next to the machine and that has let me at least use it for now. <Q> The first thing to do, is to figure out how this drain is vented. <S> If you've got a big slug of water from the washer moving through the pipe, you've got to equalize the pressure in front of and behind the water. <S> Next, I'd probably remove all that extra plumbing. <S> With three 90° bends like that, you're making it more difficult for the water to move through the pipes. <S> Cut out the extra plumbing, and connect the trap assembly directly to the trap arm. <S> Cut the plumbing at the orange line in the image below, then connect the trap and standpipe to the newly cut pipe. <S> This eliminates all the extra bends, and should allow the water to drain better. <S> I'd also install a shallower P-trap. <S> The shallower trap will hold less water, and allow better flow. <S> As it's currently plumbed, you've got probably about 4-5" of water sitting in the trap. <S> Lastly, you may be able to make the standpipe longer. <S> (the standpipe is the vertical pipe coming up out of the trap). <S> A longer standpipe obviously holds more water before overflowing, so it can provide a bit of extra time for the water to drain. <A> I suspect that capped off pipe to the right used to be the vent. <S> Take off that cap and extend it up a few feet and see how it drains. <S> The vent should go to the outside of the building. <S> Unless there's another vent behind the wall to the left that we're not seeing. <A> What is the size of the copper pipe the white plastic pipe attaches to. <S> It should be at least 1-1/2" but looks smaller. <S> I do however, prefer to pipe a washer drain in 2" pipe to be able to handle the washing machine's drain water since the water is pumped out of the washer.
|
So you'll want to make sure the drain is properly vented. Check your local codes for the maximum length, as some say maximum 30", while others allow up to 42" pipes.
|
What kind of IKEA screw is this? This is a screw on the side of an IKEA drawer. On line videos say turn it left or right to level the front of the door. Instructions are to use a Phillips screwdriver. It's not a Phillips head and the local hardware store doesn't recognize it. <Q> Public Domain Image <S> Phillips #2 on the left, Pozidriv #2 on the right. <S> Pozidriv screwdrivers come in three main sizes, usually named PZ3, PZ2 and PZ1 from largest to smallest. <S> There is also a rarely seen PZ0. <S> The most common is PZ2. <S> You should use the largest bit that will engage the screw fully. <S> Here are some examples of Pozidriv screwdriver bits for interchangeable-bit screwdrivers (hand screwdrivers and power screwdrivers) <S> It is essential to Use a Pozidriv bit, <S> never a Phillips bit Use the correct sized Pozidriv bit. <S> Used correctly, Pozidriv bits are much more positive than Phillips and are far less likely to "cam-out" (lift and slip under torque). <S> Phillips screws often don't stand up to repeated use unless you are exceptionally careful. <S> For use in the home, Pozidriv predominates in the UK and much of Europe. <S> Canadian homeowners seem to prefer Robertson (square recess), others Allen (hexagonal recess). <S> It may be that IKEA's European roots explain why it used Pozidriv for this application (although they seem very fond of Allen bolts). <S> Useful resources <S> Wikipedia: List of screw types <S> Is it a bad idea to use a Pozidriv screwdriver on a Phillips head? <S> Why does my drill bit destroy the screw head? <A> Definitely a pozi-drive screw. <S> A pozi-drive bit fits tight but a regular phillips will cause the damage in the first pic. <A> This looks like a Pozidrive screw. <S> The little shallow star shape is easy to spot. <A> Ikea is Swedish <S> so it's definitely not philips! <S> Pozidriv two normally works unless really chewed up. <S> This screw rotates an eccentric cam <S> so is a bit stiff. <S> Place a wide rubber band under the screwdriver tip and a lot of feed (pressure) holding the drawer firmly. <S> Sometimes gives you a bit more grip. <S> I work on these most weeks....
|
That's a Pozidriv head that might have been chewed up a little by the inappropriate use of a Phillips screwdriver.
|
Can I use a 3-way switch as a single-pole switch? Can I connect a 3 way switch to be used as a single pole? I accidentally purchased a couple of them and only need to control one light each. <Q> Yes it can work. <S> 3-way switches are spdt (single pole double throw) with 3 screw terminals, and regular switches are spst (single pole single throw) with 2 screw terminals. <S> Just pick the correct two contacts and you are good to go. . <S> If there are two on one side and just one on the other, then connect to the one that is alone on one side, and either of the other two on the other side. <S> A multimeter is the quick way to figure out which terminals to use. <S> Just set it for ohms and you will be able to tell what happens as you toggle the switch. <A> Yes, you can use 3-way (UK: 2-way) as 2-way (UK: 1-way) switches. <S> You can do the same with a 4-way (UK: the kind that goes between two 2-ways), again choose screws of different colors, i.e. one from the upstream "side" and one from the downstream "side". <S> They are not necessarily on the same physical side. <A> You will have two Common screws. <S> They will be across from each other on the switch. <S> Then above one of the common screws you will have another screw. <S> Wire the hot feed coming in to the common on the same side of the switch as the screw which is above. <S> Then wire the hot feed going to the fixture to that screw that is on the same side as the common <S> you just wired in. <S> Twist your bear grounds together and hook them to the green screw. <S> The reason this works and is okay is because as a single pole switch has two screws on the same side of the switch. <S> All you're doing is eliminating one of the commons that the traveler would go to. <S> It is not dangerous for this reason.
|
If you look at the switch it will identify both of them it will say common and there will be an arrow pointing to them. It will work fine. Simply make sure the screws are different colors; you want the common terminal and one of the messengers; not both messengers.
|
What are my options for tiling over an uneven concrete floor? UPDATE: After doing my research, it seems like I will need to level the floor before tiling. My carpenter doesn't know how to it so I will have to get a contractor to do this job. How much would it roughly cost to level a 550sf floor in Chicago area? I will get a quotes but it would be nice to know the ballpark figure beforehand. Here are some photos how the floor look. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMOEk8rZGFprcejd63FeoRT2TUbdMbJWp6bJvgrhbEZAygfvkO4JLow_MCLlDNp3A?key=VUlFNmUyNXZnRVRGSFd5RmVyQ2s2WDg2Q0FnaGRR My basement of about 600 square feet had vinyl tiles and carpet. I ripped everything out to install porcelain tiles. However, the concrete floor is uneven and wavy. The basement is a rental unit. Some of slopes are about 2,3 inches deep. It would cost me a lot for the self level compound like levelQuik ($36/ 40lbs bag that covers about 40 sq feet 1/8" deep) My contractor has already installed the porcelain tiles in the kitchen. They show lippage but don't look too bad with wide spacer. I'm just concerned if they will break or come off later because of the uneven floor they are on. If I don't level the floor and install the tiles anyway with either vinyl planks like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Allure-6-in-x-36-in-Canadian-Hewn-Oak-Luxury-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring-24-sq-ft-Case-81314/205893535 or porcelain tiles like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/MS-International-Classico-Blanco-12-in-x-24-in-Glazed-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-16-sq-ft-case-NHDCLASBLA1224/204800225 will they lose adhesive or break and come off later? What are my options here? <Q> One option would to roughly fill the deep depressions with a relatively inexpensive mortar mix, and only then pull out the self-levelling stuff <S> so you can use less of it. <A> Big tiles like that will be very difficult to get to look nice with such a wavy floor. <S> If you don't mind some waviness you could use smaller tile and let it go with the flow to some extent. <S> The requirements for a pro quality job are pretty strict, though probably don't apply to your case where some lippage is ok. <S> For tiles with all edges less than 15", the maximum allowable variation is 1/4" in 10' and no more than 1/16" in 12". <S> For large format tiles with one edge greater than 15" and for natural stone tiles, the maximum allowable substrate variation can be no more the 1/8" in 10' and 1/16" in 24". <S> Either way you won't have an issue with adhesion if you follow the instructions for the thinset and ensure complete coverage thinset under the tile (no voids). <S> But be mindful of any cracks in the floor, those can easily cause the same cracks to appear in the floor. <S> You'd want to put down at least a couple coats of RedGuard or other crack prevention membrane in areas near cracks. <S> Cracks with vertical deflections are another story, there is not much you can do about those besides pray. <S> I second Ecnerwal's recommendation to use an inexpensive mortar mix to get it pretty close, and then finish it off with a thin layer of LevelQuik to smooth out your rough patches. <S> Also remember your floor does not need to be level, it needs to be flat. <S> No big deal if it slopes to one side as long as you get it flat. <S> If you want really good advice on any tile questions, head over to this tile forum and ask for some advice. <S> They are super helpful to DIYers. <S> http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1 <A> I would recommend using cement mix rather than mortar mix for the large depressions and then use mortar mix to even out the rest. <S> If you lay tile on an uneven floor it WILL ultimately fail AND will have to be replaced in a short period of time. <S> This approach allows you to use less LevelQuik which is the most expensive of the underlayment materials. <S> Another flooring option would be a floating snap-in engineered floor. <S> If you go that route, you still must even out the major depressions and test the floor for vapor content. <S> -I was a bathroom and flooring contractor for 15 years. <S> Good luck! <A> Estimate for fixing the floor, installing flooring or both as a single job? <S> A tile or snap-in floor would run about the same material-wise but labor costs would be different. <S> Before ANYTHING, you have to even the floor. <S> The moisture content of the subfloor is critical. <S> Being a basement, I would probably go with tile. <S> The other alternative is a polished concrete floor. <S> You can get an estimate at Home Depot--there is a charge but it is refunded on the backend of the install. <S> There are many different costs and labor scopes differ for each task and the materials involved. <S> I would start with filling the deep depressions. <S> If it ends up not going well DYI, then you can pay someone else. <S> I recommend doing whatever tasks you're comfortable with to keep overall costs down. <A> Also, if you decide to go with outside contractor, I would probably split this upgrade into two jobs-1: resurfacing the floor and 2: installing flooring.
|
As was said above, while the floor doesn't have to be level, it does have to be EVEN in order to lay tile. I think you could get a better price for each job as separate.
|
How can I cut off 1/8 inch from ceramic tile? I have a couple of 4"x4" ceramic tiles that are cut just slightly too wide. I need to take off about an eighth of an inch. I expect that's too little for the standard score-and-snap approach. What's the easiest way, given that I don't have any tile cutting tools. <Q> It is a power tool like a table saw but uses a diamond impregnated blade and a water cooling system. <S> They can be bought or rented. <S> A cruder approach if the tiles are not too big <S> (4x4 should not be a problem)and there are not too many tiles to cut <S> is a tile nipper . <S> These chip off little bits and you can work along an edge to do the whole side. <S> However, some tiles are especially brittle and some are prone to cracking. <S> I would not try it unless you have some spares to test on and in case the selected ones break. <S> And, as noted in Jimmy James' comment, eye protection (e.g. safety goggles) is a must for nippers and also for the saw. <S> A random bit of ceramic shard or grit shot into the eye is no joke. <S> Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> I own a pair of tile nippers - I bought them first, they were cheap. <S> Unfortunately, they didn't work (pretty much "at all") on the tiles I was using - <S> breaks would be more or less random. <S> So I bought one of these dry diamond blades for an angle grinder - if you don't own an angle grinder, this might just be one of the few times I'd say that the cheapest knock-off you can find with a warranty that's slightly longer than your project will take would be appropriate - personally, I had one already. <S> Eye protection, dust mask, work outside or somewhere with massive dust collection. <S> As compared to the wet tile saw, no built in fence, (I was able to set up wood to clamp tiles and act as a fence when needed) <S> not wet <S> so there's dust, much less expensive. <S> As compared to the nippers, no comparison, this just works. <S> I was even able to miter-cut some tile to make up for not being able to find bull-nose for 50 year old tile <S> I was reusing. <S> Image is an example, not an endorsement. <S> A dry or dry/wet blade is what you want for dry cutting - <S> a wet (only) diamond blade will not be happy if used dry. <S> However if you literally have only a couple of tiles you need trimmed, bringing them to a tile shop might be the best option <S> - pay them a couple of bucks to trim them for you. <S> Or the cheapest (if a bit slow) tool would probably be one of these silicon carbide rubbing blocks: which you could just grind down the edge with. <A> Use the “wet saw” for free at the place you bought the tiles. <S> The store will usually include one cut per item bought for no charge. <S> That’s what I’ve done (at one of the big-box stores). <S> If you can’t get that where you bought, take them to the store which does have such a saw and pay 10¢ – 20¢ per cut. <A> Dremel with a grinding wheel or a carbide cutoff blade. <S> (arrange so the spray goes into a towel or use a wet/dry vac). <A> There are hand saws sold for awkward cuts in tiles <S> Here's one from B&Q (UK) . <S> I've got one and have used it for just the sort of job you describe. <S> I suggest scoring the glaze first, then running over the scored line with a marker pen before cutting, so your cut line is both clean and clear to follow. <S> It's not really a saw blade, more a grit-coated wire of around 1mm diameter <S> (so 1/3 of the amount you want to take off is the with of the cut). <S> This example may be a bit too fine but you can also get tile files which allow you to take off even less.
|
The best approach is a tile saw that can make small precise cuts along the length of a tile. Again I have one and it wouldn't be too much work to do what you want with that. Do this OUTSIDE with a N95 mask, goggles, gloves and try to control the shards
|
What's the best way to repair this hardwood floor damage? (Part 2) This project is quickly becoming a series on diy.SE. For more background, read the previous question . Strip dimensions: 2.5" wide x 1/8" thick (cross section) Videos I watched: here and here . I'm trying to repair my water damaged hardwood floor. I've started removing the planks (which I will now begin calling "strips" because they are so thin, only 1/8" thick) individually using the hammer and chisel approach recommended in the answers to the first question . The new information I have for this question is as follows. The damage appears to go beyond and beneath the first layer of wood. (The planks are only about 1/8"). Should I just keep digging out strips going deeper and deeper into the floor until I get all the damaged ones out? I am concerned about how deep the water damage appears to go. It might go all the way to the bottom of the floor into crawl space. Should I just keep digging out planks/strips? Or should I stop at some point and just patch over it. Patching over the damage just seems wrong somehow. But if it goes all the way thru, it seems like the complexity of the repair might grow exponentially. What new advice can you give? Fig. 1. The work area and the tools I'm currently using. Hammer, chisel, safety glasses. Fig 2. Cross section of a strip. Fig 3. Another strip cross section. Fig 4. Close up view of the work area. Notice the blue cord and the vinyl material coming out and up from the floor. Is this because I am getting close to the crawl space? Fig 5. Another close up. Fig 6. Another close up. Fig 7. Another close up. <Q> You've got to get all of the rotten, water damaged wood out of there. <S> Have you been down in the crawlspace yet? <S> Looking at it from underneath will give you a better idea of the extent of the damage. <S> It's entirely possible that the joist(s) are compromised as well. <S> You will need to cut the subfloor (plywood or OSB underlying the wood floor) back to the mid point of the nearest joists (the beams under the floor). <S> And then lay in new material of the same thickness. <S> Once that's done, new flooring is in order. <S> If you don't opt for that, linoleum may be <S> you're best bet to match the thickness of the existing flooring. <S> Cheap, tough and waterproof. <S> If you only do the portion shown, you'll have a significant lip because it will be quite a bit thicker then that wood floor by the time you put down backerboard and such. <S> Not sure what that blue cord is? <S> Does it have a wire core to it? <S> Any chance you have electric radiant heat in there? <A> Put in a new subfloor and install tile. <S> You have extensive water and sewage damage. <S> It is clear that wood is not the appropriate flooring for your bathroom. <S> Wood can work for some <S> but they have to very diligent and very clean in general. <S> You cannot have kids peeing and putting water everywhere. <S> Also wood is not the cleanest material. <S> If you lost that top layer you have sewage sitting in your wood. <S> From your pictures I would guess all of your subfloor is rotten. <S> I would remove it all. <S> Lay down 3/4" everywhere and put some vinyl planks or tile everywhere. <S> You are well beyond just matching some planks or anything like that. <S> My way will be a lot faster too. <S> You can cut out that subfloor and lay new subfloor in two hours. <S> Tiling isn't a huge job, vinyl planks take 45 mins. <A> Do you need to replace it all? <S> You definitely need to take any of the black parts out. <S> Ensure that the floor framing below is in tact too. <S> If those boards are severely black then you may want to hire this out as it will get very expensive and can actually be dangerous for you to do it yourself since the structure is then at risk. <S> If still willing to do it yourself? <S> If the structural boards seem fine and are not black then you will need to replace the subfloor. <S> The most cost effective way will be to keep ripping up sections like you are doing until you encompass the area that is damaged. <S> You can keep going at it the way you are doing it <S> but a more effective way might be to drill pilot holes with a drill and then using your flavor of an electric saw to cut out the sections. <S> Either way, you will want to cut out the section as a rectangle. <S> When cutting be careful not to hit the structural boards below. <S> Check that there are no live wires beneath it as well with a stud finder that has the feature to find live wires. <S> Also be careful around that pipe <S> so you don't hit it with the saw. <S> Reinstalling the subfloor <S> Once this is done, ensure that any "small bits of black" are sanded away from remaining boards. <S> Next you will want to install new subflooring which can be purchased at your local lumber store. <S> You will cut it down to the size rectangle you cut out. <S> You may want to pay attention to the sizes available to see if your size hole rounds up to what is available (to save having to cut the new one). <S> You install the subfloor by placing screws through it to the joists (structural boards beneath). <S> Once done then install new hardwood on top to match the old or replace all of the hardwood with something else. <S> Of course my reinstalling procedure is a bit summarized because there are many articles out there how to do subflooring. <S> Tools needed:To get the old black stuff out and off: Drill, saw, and sandpaper
|
Honestly, with that thin existing "hardwood" flooring, I'd tear it all out. Tile would be my preferred option if you redo the whole bathroom.
|
How can I prevent moisture from damaging my tools overnight? I just bought a Nissan NV200, which I've had outfitted with a partition and shelves. My tools stay in the vehicle and after a really cold night, I find a fair bit of condensation on them. I've tried running the defrost on high, even the AC to dehumidify, but until the tools warm up, they'll collect whatever moisture is in the air. How do you manage moisture in your vehicles ? <Q> As you said, until the tools warm up, you will have condensation problems. <S> Cold tools and warm air will always give you condensation problems. <S> Using heat to protect expensive/precision tools is nothing new and is commonly done to preserve firearms. <S> I use this GoldenRod heater type dehumidifier http://amzn.to/2utHyWQ to protect machine tools with exposed metal surfaces like lathes from the dangers of condensation corrosion. <S> I have even seen these heater bars used on pianos to protect the wooden structure. <S> I suggest you place them in or under your tool racks and leave it plugged in overnight. <S> These simple resistance heaters can also be hooked up to a 12v line, though it would most likely only output 10% of the original amount of heat when done so. <S> Then again most of my hand tools and even the vast majority of my power tools seem to be unaffected by condensation/moisture/rain. <S> The only things that get their own heater are the expensive precision tools and measuring devices. <A> What you might want to try is adding a cabinet with a gasket around the door, then add some Damp-Rid packs inside to absorb any humidity (they sell a closet pack you can hang from the top). <S> It's not terribly expensive and dehumidifying such a small space shouldn't cost a lot <A> Place chalk sticks in tool boxes to soak up moisture. <A> Go to the store and buy a bag of ice-melt. <S> Calcium chloride is a great desiccant and it is quite cheap. <S> Place some of it in cheesecloth, old pillow cases, or tee shirt material. <S> Put it in with your tools. <S> Problem is it will need to be renewed occasionally. <S> Good luck!
|
The only option is to prevent your tools from getting that cold.
|
Wire size for double pole breakers Just had a home inspection completed and one of the things advised to be corrected is the wiring running to an AC unit. In the breaker panel it's hooked up to a 30-amp double pole breaker with #12 wire. Inspector notes that #10 wire should be used for 30-amp circuits so that the wire does not melt before the breaker can do its job in an over-current situation. This makes sense to me, but I'm thrown off by the double-pole configuration. Since the load is split over 2 conductors, does it really need to use such heavy gauge wire? <Q> It is perfectly within reason to have #12 wire protected by a 30A breaker when the circuit feeds an A/C unit. <S> Depends on the specs of the unit. <S> I would not expect the average home inspector to know this. <S> A/C units, welders and electric motors have different rules than the "standard" breaker sizing rules. <S> Things are NOT always as simple as a chart at the home center or a simple electrical book. <S> This is not a hard and fast rule, but it is typical and works for most installations. <S> It's kind of complicated, but it's all in the NEC, Art.440, Section III. <S> Here is an excellent overview on Art440 by one of the most respected names in the electrical business, Mike Holt: http://www.dantespeakheatingcooling.com/upload/Mike_Holt_NEC.pdf See Figure 440-5 and 440-6 in this .pdf <S> for a clear explanation. <A> A 30A breaker may be appropriate for certain motor loads on 12 AWG wire. <S> See ThreePhaseEel's first comment to my answer over here where he calls out chapter and verse. <S> I re-summarized it as follows: <S> certain motors require a 25A or 30A breaker (NEC 430.52) yet are permitted to use 12AWG wire (430.22 notably 430.22E) <S> This is deep in the sort of NEC arcana that not everyone will know. <S> So you may need to make them dig out their copy of NEC and do some reading. <A> Most local inspectors only care about what they see at first impression. <S> One can argue semantics all you want, but the inspector is going to want #14 wire matched up to a 15 amp breaker, #12 wire to a 20 amp, #10 to a 30 amp, etc. <S> Arguing will very likely cause no end of future grief for the homeowner. <S> Different insulation material ratings just add more confusion, as this will vary your wires maximum ampacity under code. <S> It is the wire insulation that breaks-down, not the current-carrying capacity. <S> Unless you can show the inspector in the NEC codebook a valid exception, and gently convince <S> said inspector to give you a variance, you will likely be in for a serious uphill battle. <S> As far as oversizing the breaker, good luck getting me to go for that! <S> My six grandchildren were sleeping upstairs when the split hvac unit outside compressor locked-up and completely melted the bus bars in the main breaker panel with the breakers never tripping. <S> I will NEVER over-current a wire, as I have seen way too many breakers fail to do their job, resulting in major repairs. <S> With so much material being manufactured outside of the U.S. and even some materials made right here, I have had issues in the past with sub-standard quality. <S> Remember that the NEC code book states that following the minimum code requirements does not necessarily provide an efficient installation. <S> Overkill will always trump skimping.
|
For an air con unit you would typically size the conductors to the minimum circuit ampacity (MCA), and size the breaker to the maximum overcurrent protection (MOP).
|
1/4" metal pin through a 2x4: unthreaded t-nut or metal sleeve to prevent fretting (wear from small movements)? I want to secure fittings to a 2x4. These fittings will have holes that line up with holes in the 2x4. Thick metal pins will hold the fitting in place, but I want to reinforce the 2x4 so the pin will not enlarge the hole. I think I'm looking for an unthreaded t-"nut", or perhaps a sleeve bushing. Does this have a more elegant solution? <Q> Buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B002WC8TQ6 screw it in, and drill out the interior threads. <A> Not so much elegant but likely less expensive than inserts would be to find the right size steel tubing to fit your bolts and cut them to length for the hole, drilled to match the OD of the tubing. <S> If the washer you use has a larger ID than the OD of the tubing, you can compress until the nut hits the bushing, or stack more washers for more compression. <A> Cheap bushing could just be a piece of steel or Al tube, cut to length and secured in the hole with epoxy or polyurethane glue.
|
You would want the length of the tubing to be slightly smaller than the depth of the hole, and using washers, compress the wood until the bolt will not tighten more.
|
Pros and cons of self stick vs adhesive kitchen vinyl floor tiles I would like a long lasting floor covering with no seams (because seams tend to get dirty). Most of the vinyl tile I see sold by Sears and Home Depot are self-stick. Do self-stick last over the years as well as adhesive? <Q> Tile with adhesive is the way to go if you want durability. <A> If you want "no seams" then you don't want tiles, period. <S> That's what sheet vinyl flooring (often still misnomered as linoleum, though actual linoleum is quite, quite rare these days) is good for, if the space to be covered is less than 12 feet in one dimension (after that, you're stuck with a seam.) <S> It actually has no seams (if the 12 foot limit is not exceeded - 12 by whatever is fine, as it comes on a long roll, 12 feet wide.) <S> I have self-stick tile in several spaces - basically low-traffic closets, and it seems fine in those on its own adhesive, applied with care to a very carefully cleaned floor. <S> If you are breaking out the tile adhesive, might as well break out the commercial-grade vinyl tile (made with no stickum) <S> it's made to go with, which is a far better tile at not much more cost. <S> The difference should be obvious comparing the two types - HD typically carries one, perhaps two colors of commercial vinyl (all the others are "order and they'll get it"), and it's a much thicker, more solid vinyl than the thin stick-ons. <S> It's basically all wear surface until you wear right through it, while the stick-on starts thinner and has a much thinner wear layer. <S> A third possibility is an epoxy coating, with or without "color chips." <A> It seems the only time self-adhesive tiles will stick is when one wants to remove them. <S> And, in those cases, we've kept track of what was holding them down: 1) <S> Troweled (evenly spread) <S> flooring adhesive 2) <S> Luan plywood underlayment (often with evenly spread flooring adhesive) <S> I've been told (numerous times) <S> the key to laying them is to warm them up (ie. hair dryer, microwave oven, hot water). <S> I did help a guy install self-adhesive tiles, using flooring adhesive over B-C plywood, in which the tiles were warm from being in a hot van. <S> Yes, the warmth did seem to make the self-adhesive on the tile more sticky and the tiles weren't so stiff; making it more effective to use a roller to press the tile into the floor adhesive we used. <S> If we were using luan we would have skipped the floor adhesive (maybe). <S> One guy said a coat of paint primer, sticky to the touch, will seal the plywood and create additional "sticky" for the tile. <S> We all imagined tiles coming up with splotches of primer stuck to the back of the tile. <S> The jury is still out on this idea.
|
I have seen self stick tile not lasting as long as it should.
|
I need a neat solution for lifting a floor boarded trap door I've just had a 'trap door' replaced in a floor boarded floor. The previous trap door just had a couple of finger holes in it to lift it out, however: This was not particularly neat The trap door is a bit too heavy for this to be an easy task. Now I have the new trap door in place (the floor itself has actually been replaced, hence the new trap door) I'd like to install a better way of lifting the hatch out. The trap door itself is made of the same floor joists as the surrounding floor and has been floor boarded with the same floor boards as the surrounding floor. I have looked at marine flush lifting handles , but my concern is that they would need a recess cut into the floor boards to fit them flush (I don't have a router, so it would be a hammer and chisel job!) and they would need to be installed directly over the joists that make up the trap door frame to give a solid enough fixing to lift the weight of the trap door. I've also considered eye bolts that could be screwed in whenever I need access under the trap door (not very often). I'd need to find some kind of flush mounting nut or something that I could install under the trap door for the eye bolts to screw into, though, and I can't find anything suitable. Finally I also thought about using manhole lifting keys or similar, and putting some kind of slot in the trap door. The problem then is making it something neat rather than just drilling a hole the correct shape for the keys to slot into. I'm sure I must be missing something and there must be a better way of doing this. <Q> You are looking for t-nuts <S> These would work with your removable eye-bolts <S> Personally I would use the marine flush lifting handles, but they are more work to fit. <A> As you've allowed for the option of using eyebolts, the receiving portion of that system is called a T-nut , and would require only an appropriately sized hole in the floor board, with the t-nut tapped in from below. <S> This would prevent debris from entering the hole and clogging the threads. <S> Hex head and slotted head bolts can collect the same debris, reducing the value of such a fastener. <S> You can use a forstner bit for a bolt with a flat underside or use an ordinary bit if the fill-bolt has a countersunk head. <S> I think you're on the right track. <A> Flush handles don't necessarily require a recess. <S> You can cut a full-depth hole through the floorboards (but not the joist, obviously) using basic drill bits and a jigsaw. <S> The escutcheon plates cover the hole edges for a nicely trimmed look, and you'll have the best functionality. <S> No router or chisel needed. <S> I'd use them. <A> this is all too much thinking. <S> go here: <S> http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40224&cat=3,70806,43521,43559 buy one of the circular ones. <S> drill pilot hole to accomodate pull rear swelling diameter, then counterbore (at the diameter of the flange) <S> the hole from above to the depth of the flange. <S> drop in the unit and screw in place. <S> if your wood is weak or a poor species for resisting screw pull out, just put some backers behind the unit on the underside of the door for the screws to bit into. <S> if you do your holes with forstner bits, no further work required, if with holesaws, you will have to clean the shoulder down with a chisel. <A> Get a long carriage bolt. <S> Drill a hole. <S> Maybe chisel a tiny square so the head can sit nearly flush. <S> (Skip this step if you're lazy or don't have fingernails to pick at the head of the bolt when it's flush.) <S> Drop the bolt through and put a nut on the end. <S> Have an adult beverage. <S> A magnet underneath and the one of the magswitches on top should do it. <S> (Sadly, it'll be an experiment to find out which model you need.)
|
I would also suggest to recess the upper portion of the hole to enable you to place a binder bolt or similarly-headed bolt in the opening when not in use. A slot-head type is going to provide the best option for later removal. Edit: since you added the part about being in a hallway, I'd now suggest you look into Magswitch products.
|
How can I locate a wall from a crawl space? I am needing to add RG6 cabling to a bedroom that currently does not have an outlet. I have no problem connecting the RG6 to the splitter outside my home, feeding into my crawlspace and running the length of the home. The question I have is, once I reach the room I need to add the cabling to, how do I knew exactly where in the floor to drill up? Meaning - I don't want to drill through the floor, I want it to be a wallfish (which I have experience doing but from coming down the wall from say an attic), so how can I locate exactly where to drill up in order to not go through the floor or the baseboard? I also have an attic and a crawlspace, is there anyway that connects the crawlspace straight up to the attic that I could possibly run a cable up to the attic then wall fish down to a room up there as well? Maybe somehow follow the chimney up, is that possible? <Q> Cut an opening in the wall for a low voltage box/bracket,and install the bracket. <S> Position a flexible drill bit into the hole, so that you'll drill straight through the bottom plate of the wall and into the crawlspace. <S> This is a poor image since the guy is not drilling straight down, but you get the idea. <S> Go into the crawlspace and attach the cable to the drill bit. <S> Pull the drill bit (and cable) up into the wall. <S> Make up the connections to a wall plate, and install the wall plate in the low voltage box/bracket. <A> Measure carefully. <S> There are usually plenty of reference points... <S> duct vents plumbing, etc. <S> Once you've done that, either drill a very small hole to feel for the wall's bottom plate, or run a long screw up through. <S> An assistant on the floor above can help determine if you're off target and warn you. <S> If you have absolutely no reference points, drive a screw down from above in an inconspicuous location. <S> If screwing through carpet, be very careful to prevent the carpet from grabbing the screw and zipping out a thread. <S> You could remove a piece of base trim to create a hidden hole. <S> There's unlikely to be a clean passage from your crawl space to your attic through a wall. <S> You'll probably have 3 wall plates in between, and possibly mid-wall blocking. <A> I came up w/ a 'cool trick' (I think so, at least). <S> Get some of those strong, rectangular magnets.. <S> Upstairs, on the edge of the wall, where you want the receptacle to be above, put the magnet on the floor and a heavy weight on it, so it won't move. <S> Then, take some measurements to help you figure out where it'll be, when trying to find it from the other side of the wall/floor/whatever. <S> Then, using one of those telescoping magnetic wands (the ones that're designed to help you pick up screws/nails/etc. <S> from behind furniture or whatever) see if you can find where your first magnet is. <S> Realize: <S> using this method, you have really found the center of the magnet above - meaning you need to account for 1/2 the width of the magnet + the widths of any additional materials (such as baseboards, wallboards, tile, etc..) <S> Then you can drill a hole (starting small is always sage advice) and if you've done your measurements and locating correctly, the hole will be inside the wall, precisely where you want it to be. <S> Additional advice: nails/screws/other-metallic-stuff will attract your magnetic wand (false positives). <S> Now your magnetic wand should be repelled from the magnet upstairs. <S> Another note: using this method <A> Here are some suggestions. <S> Locate a power socket as my reference point. <S> You'll know it's there because you'll see the wires going up into the inside of the wall. <S> Position your outlet on the outer wall since the outer wall is always known. <S> Then go below and locate it. <S> The wall is right next to it. <S> Locate <S> the piles, often piles are below walls. <S> They may give some clues. <S> Run the wire up through the inside a built in wardrobe to the ceiling space and then along and down through the wall. <S> You can drill these holes next to the wall inside the wardrobe and poke a piece of string or wire down to find it from below. <S> You can hide/protect the wire in the wardrobe with conduit. <S> Sometimes, this method is just easier, especially when you lack the tools or in my case I had to do this in an old church building <S> and there was <S> were areas I could not crawl to from below <S> so had to transition the wire to above. <S> Carefully measure. <S> But this is hard to get right because you need to be sure you are measuring from the right position. <S> 10cm out <S> and my may miss the wall completely. <S> Another idea, put a strip of steel against the baseboard such as a rafter square and use a stud finder to try to locate that. <S> Since most detectors also sense steel it should find it quite easily. <S> Combined with option 6 above you should be able to locate the wall pretty easily. <S> Ok heres another option. <S> A compass and magnet. <S> See post by Matthias Wandel here <A> I've only seen this done, so ymmv, but take the long straight part of a coat hanger. <S> Chuck it in the drill. <S> Cut the other end at a slight angle with side cutters. <S> Drill through in a subtle place. <S> (Maybe between the base and the wall.) <S> Once you're through, there should be enough length for you to landmark in the crawl space. <S> Cheaper than a flex bit!
|
Drill a tiny hole from the edge of the wall through and poke a wire down through it. , it's pretty easy to do a couple of sample spots/dots and use those and a straight-edge to make lines showing you where your walls are on the floor above, but letting you have a relatively precise diagram of where they are as you look up from underneath the floor. Use it as a reference. If you think you found where the magnet is, put a dot or an 'X' w/ a sharpie or something and go flip the magnet upside down. If it's being repelled from the dot you made before, then it's a true positive. Have an assistant tap it with a hammer to help you find it. If it was that easy, it wouldn't be called "fishing". :) I've used all of these except the last one which I think would work pretty well. Although, that might not be a good position for it in your room.
|
what can be used as a small container for paint? I need to touch up a corner. I'm wondering, what can I use to poor a little latex paint (with primer in it) into to do the touch up? I prefer not to bring in the whole paint canister from the garage but to transfer maybe 100ml into a small container and bring that up to the house. Can I use plastic? Specifically, I'm wondering if there's a risk of the latex paint and plastic chemically reacting and ruining the paint. Also, can I throw the latex paint with primer plastic container into the recycle bin after I'm done? Or do I have to clean it first? Thanks <Q> Can I use plastic? <S> "Paint kettle" <S> I have a few of these <S> but I often use an old (but clean) <S> glass jam-jar. <S> I also clean my used paint kettles. <S> can I throw the latex paint with primer plastic container into the recycle <S> bin Hell no! <S> Yikes! <S> In my part of the planet, liquid paint has to be taken to a household waste recycling centre and placed in the "paint" receptacle there. <S> Some people suggest mixing the paint with sawdust/shavings etc to solidify it for disposal, but I didn't find that at all satisfactory. <A> Any plastic (polyethylene, HDPE, ect.) will do. <S> I've used disposable plastic cups, storage containers, coffee canisters, and many other things without issue. <S> The solvents in latex paint are fairly mild. <S> I wouldn't store urethane in disposable containers for any substantial length of time. <A> You're right not to paint out of the can. <S> During the extended time you are painting with the can open, you have water and essential VOCs flashing out of the paint, altering its chemistry and thickening it. <S> Do not recycle any contaminated container... <S> Food, oil, doesn't matter, wash it clean or don't recycle it. <S> If you've been doing that all your life, time to stop. <S> Recycling is an industrial process, where those clean materials are feedstocks into an industrial process which yields new, quality goods. <S> The whole point is that this is much more efficient than starting with virgin petroleum, with all its geopolitical consequences. <S> It defeats the purpose if process batches get contaminated. <S> Of course they try to clean the material, but weird stuff can get by. <S> Latex paint can be cleaned up with soap and water, and it is not toxic to put down the drain in cleanup quantity -- do not dump paint down the drain. <S> If I don't have potable water, I put the container and brushes in the trash/garbage/bin. <S> If you have a quantity of liquid paint to dispose of, the best way is to paint it on something you do not want, and throw it away (eventually). <S> I have some old election signs with must be 30 coats of paint on em. <S> Once when I did a cleanup blitz in the city, I painted over every illegal handbill within a block of my house. <S> I didn't hate handbills, I just had a lot of paint to get rid of.
|
If you used the remaining paint to paint some old cardboard boxes or newspapers, after it dries you can place the result in the normal (non-recyclable) rubbish-bin/trash-can. Latex paint is quite benign, and you can use darn near anything for a paint cup. For urethane, most of those containers will also work for short-term use.
|
How should I deal with sediment in my water lines? Whole-house filter? I've had on-and-off problems with sediment in my water lines due to really old city infrastructure. It has clogged the inner workings of the dishwasher, blocked shower heads and faucets, etc. Although the city periodically flushes the lines (or perhaps because they do), particulate still makes its way into my pipes. Because this is a rental property (I now live about 700 miles away), I'm looking for a solution that would require little intervention once in place (changing filters periodically is fine - I just don't want my tenants to have to constantly clear the sediment traps on faucets or have to worry about appliances that don't have any traps/filtration of their own). So is a whole-house water filter my best bet? Are there other options I might not be aware of? Edit: Talked to a plumber, who pointed out the possibility that I may have severely corroded galvanized supply lines after the meter and into the house (which I do). If that were the case, placing a filter before a run of oxidizing steel probably isn't going to do much. It could also be both (the city and my side of the meter). <Q> Oh my goodness. <S> This is the city's problem. <S> Unbelievable that you are getting so much sediment OR there is a busted line getting lots of clay and iron particles to clog you up. <S> Have you done a flow test? <S> Hopefully before you purchased your home. <S> Or get someone to find out if there is a break in your line to your home. <S> That would be my suspicion. <S> City water usually does NOT have that much sediment. <S> Now if you are on a well, an entire different story and landlord needs to fix! <S> – <S> stormy 1 min ago <A> A whole house filter is your best bet. <S> If you clean it once at the source, it will be clean after that ( <S> well, once you flush whatever is in the pipes out with clean water, anyway.) <S> I personally use one that combines a spiral flow pattern with a fine screen - much of the crud accumulates in the bottom of the filter, and can be dumped by opening a valve there. <S> If you have more very fine material, you might want to combine something like that with a traditional cartridge filter after it. <A> If I were in your shoes, I would check with your neighbors first, and see if that is a common issue. <S> I'd investigate and see how wide-spread the issue is. <S> HOPEFULLY... you are the lucky winner , and it's just your home affected. <S> I would then request the cities utility department, or water provider, to send a technician to come and conduct a water quality test at your home. <S> I know that water providers are required by law ( in the United States ) to make available water quality test results which often are conducted at the source of the water. <S> Usually these are sent out via the postal service each year. <S> See this as an example from my city ( I know this is dated, but I'm too lazy to find the latest one). <S> I know that at a specific request and after much convincing, my town will send a technician over to test the quality of the water at the residence if the owner feels that the quality doesn't match what is described in the report, or it may contain contaminants. <S> Have you noticed any excessive water usage at the property? <S> Hopefully this water is 'leaking' on the other side of your water meter and would fall under the city / provider's responsibility.
|
Keep changing your filters and if this is truly on city water, you HAVE to start whining loudly!! To me, it sounds like there is an old water line between you and the source of the water that has weathered the infrastructure enough that it's starting to pull the sediments around it down the pipes, and into your home.
|
Is the black wire always hot on a three-way switch? What is the best way to find out which color wire goes to which color screw? Does the white wire go to the silver screw sometimes, and sometimes to black?I have a three way switch which has a green screw and a black screw and three brass I don't know which one is which. <Q> Basic 3-way switches <S> When working with basic 3-way snap switches, the switch should have four terminal. <S> Common, COM, or C <S> This terminal will typically be black, or some color other than green or silver. <S> The common terminal will either be connected to the ungrounded (hot) LINE wire coming from the power source, or to the ungrounded (hot) LOAD wire going to the load (lights). <S> Ground, Earth <S> This terminal will typically be green, and will likely be either at the top of the bottom of the switch. <S> Travelers <S> These terminals will commonly be brass. <S> These terminals are used to carry power between the switches, and will alternate being live. <S> Depending on how the switch is toggled, one of these terminals will always have voltage (assuming the circuit is working properly). <S> Smart switches <S> These types of switches will usually offer some extra functionality, other than simply turning the lights on/off. <S> Because of this, the switch may also require a neutral wire. <S> Neutral <S> The neutral terminal on a smart switch will often be silver, and is used to connect a circuit neutral wire to the switch. <S> Wire colors Wire color is meant to help determine the function of a wire, however, it can often be wrong. <S> Your best bet, is to never trust the person that installed the wiring, and always test the wires yourself. <S> 3-way circuits <S> A 3-way circuit should look something like this. <S> 3-way circuit <S> However, wiring in a building is not typically this straightforward. <S> So you might find cases where power goes to the light first, or other strangeness. <A> The best way is to do some reading on the type of circuit <S> you're working with and make sure you understand the core concepts. <S> Most circuits can be configured in several different ways, so there's no way to simply arrive at an answer. <S> In the case of a typical 3-way switch, the black screw is usually used for the hot lead. <S> The bare brass screws are for "travellers", which transmit power from the hot lead to the other switch or light box in accordance with the switch position. <S> As Carl Witthoft mentioned, green is always ground and should only be connected to bare copper leads. <A> Hots can be any other color. <S> Neutrals can only be gray or white, but so can hots . <S> And since multi-wire cables come in very limited colors (black/white/bare or black/white/red/bare), even the above is not a sure thing. <S> In 3-way switch circuits (UK/EU people call this a 2-way), the white wire in a multiconductor cable often gets used as a hot or switched-hot. <S> This is also true in older switch loops. <S> That said, when possible, people often like to use white for neutral, black for always-hot, and red for switched-hot, to the extent that's possible. <S> Anytime you see a white or gray wire which is not actually being used for neutral, try to put a few wraps of electrical tape around the wire, so as to mark it as not neutral . <S> This type of marking is not allowed for neutrals or grounds (unless the wire size is quite large, 4 AWG or bigger, as electrical distributors have said they will not stock 3 different colors of large wire). <S> 3-ways are all about topology. <S> Thinking about colors is useless. <S> What about 3-way switches? <S> First, there's the ground screw. <S> Attach it then disregard it. <S> The 3 remaining screws -- 2 have the same color, one is a different color. <S> The oddball is the common wire <S> , i.e. the one at the apex of the switch you see in all the diagrams. <S> The other 2 screws are the same color, those are the travelers . <S> Those are a matched pair and they are interchangeable, so you don't need to spend any brain cells telling travelers apart. <S> Aside from the 2 travelers, there must also be a return of some kind, which bypasses the switch. <S> What that does exactly, depends on how the 3-way switch is laid out. <S> If the topology is power-source/switch/switch/lamp, the return wire will be neutral. <S> If the switches are a spur, then the return wire will be either a hot or switched-hot. <S> If you get the impression we all kinda "make it up" in 3-way switch circuits -- you got it!
|
White wires can, from time to time, be used as ungrounded (hot) wires (though they're supposed to be marked when they are). Colors mean nothing In the United States, land of freedom, there are no strict color codes except green, green-yellow or bare can only be ground . As such, you could choose the preferred color for the "return wire", and use the other two for travelers. It may be brass, in which case it will be labeled or marked in some way as common. So... colors are useless in wires.
|
Unusual wiring in receptacle connected to switch I have a receptacle with a wiring configuration I am not familiar with (see picture). The receptacle is controlled by a single pole switch elsewhere in the room. The two black wires are pig-tailed together in the box. One white wire is connected to a terminal on each side of the receptacle. The ground wire is connected both to the ground terminal and the bottom neutral terminal. Is this normal? Is it safe? This looks similar to something I've read about called a 'bootleg ground' -- not sure if that's the case here. The house is ~40 years old and the switch/receptacle have been operating correctly and a plug-in receptacle tester doesn't show any problems. It just doesn't seem right to me. Any advice would be appreciated! <Q> Are you sure you rewired this exactly the way you found it? <S> Any chance you flipped the outlet upside down in the course of swapping it (putting the two wires on the side with the fatter pin, neutral, rather than the shorter pin, hot)? <S> Previously, were both receptacles switched, or only one? <S> Did the old receptacle have the split tab broken off on either side (that bit of brass between the screws)? <S> One of the white wires is a switched hot, and that's fine. <S> Today, that wire Should be marked with tape to show it's not a neutral. <S> In the past, that was only required if it was not "obvious". <S> The bare wire can only be the safety ground. <S> It cannot be used as a conductor in any way, shape or form, so that setup is illegal as heck, and needs to go. <S> If you inadvertently flipped the outlet and that was formerly the hot side, and the tab was broken, that would mean he had split the outlet so only one socket was switched , and the other always-hot . <S> And he was supplying those from the switch, through white (OK) and bare (NOPE). <S> You'll have to look inside the switch to see if he did this. <S> And if he did, undo it and make it a normal switch loop and have it switch both sockets. <S> Normally nothing damages a cable in a wall, so <S> wire problems are usually at terminations -- so you may be able to fix it. <S> If the damage is in the cable itself, take the entire cable out of service - a screw which cut neutral may have cut halfway through other conductors, or be touching hot, waiting for a child to find it. <A> It looks like the hot wire has been painted over. <S> The problem here is the neutral. <S> It's cross-wired to the ground. <S> I can't think of a single good reason to do this. <S> Just unwrap the ground from the neutral side and that should work correctly. <S> If it still doesn't work after that, consult an electrician. <A> It sounds like there are two wires coming into this box: one supplying power, one is a switch loop (going to the switch). <S> In the switch loop the black wire is constant hot, the white is switched hot. <S> In this case that white wire should be marked with black or red on both sides to indicate it's not a neutral <S> but that's the least of the problems here. <S> Bottom line, this is incorrect, illegal and dangerous. <S> Now you need to try and determine why this was done. <S> Almost certainly this is either a bootleg ground or an unnecessary connection. <S> Check if the ground is okay After disconnecting the ground from neutral, use a multimeter to test between ground and hot. <S> You should get 120V. <S> If not, your ground isn't connected, and that confirms this was being used as a bootleg ground. <S> If the ground works (you get 120V) <S> it indicates either another bootleg connection upstream, or that this was just completely unnecessary and done by someone who had no idea what they were doing (actually: that statement is true regardless). <S> The fact this was done makes me not trust any other work done, so I'd trace back and look at all other fixtures on this same circuit to check for other bootleg connections. <S> Fix bootleg ground <S> Basically there are two possible fixes: Run a new wire with a proper ground <S> Replace the outlet (or an upstream one) with a GFCI, and put a "No Equipment Ground" sticker on it (and all downstream outlets).
|
The white and bare wires both attached on the neutral side could mean one of two things. If those two had previously been conncted to the neutral (taller prong) side, with the tab not broken off, that would suggest he was having problems with the neutral wire, so he bootlegged ground. But first you need to understand what the crazy person was trying to do. Disconnect the ground from the neutral.
|
Can I plug a fridge freezer into a short extension lead? I've done a lot of research and the general consensus is no, but this is for use cases drastically different to my own. There is a double socket in my garage that has always been used for a fridge freezer and a tumble dryer. Recently I bought some LED christmas lights to use year round that draw a total of about 10 watts. I decided probably the best appliance to share a socket with would be the fridge freezer as the tumble dryer probably draws more power. So my question is, on a short 1-2m extension lead would a fridge freezer and some LED lights be okay? <Q> Get an extension lead rated for 13 A. You can get rubberised ones which are a bit tougher - you don't want to skimp on the price. <S> Make sure it has some provision for mounting it on the wall and do so <S> (use screws that won't rust, like brass or zinc-galvanised). <S> That way, if water gets into the garage (like on those days it rains sideways) <S> it won't get to the extension sockets. <S> For the extension outlet end, you just need to leave the cord hanging downwards a bit. <S> You might want to label the plugs with sticky labels or a marker pen. <S> Or you might have a electrician mate down the pub who'll install an extra double socket for the price of the parts and a couple of beers :) <A> Yes it will be fine, as long as you keep within the current ratings of both the main socket and the extension. <S> As the current draw of the lights is minimal this isn't going to be a problem. <S> This is what extensions are made for, and there's nothing particularly special about a fridge/freezer. <S> Obviously mount the extension where it will be secure and dry. <S> Be safe, but don't fuss! <A> It appears that you want the extension cord just to split the outlet in two- is that correct? <S> If so, what you want is <S> just a (heavy duty) splitter, with possibly an extension cord to the lights after it, since I assume that the freezer isn't going to be moving. <A> The correct solution, is to install a new receptacle for the lights. <S> Almost certainly, the manufacturer's instructions for the fridge specifically say not to use an extension cord.
|
It would be best to make sure that there is no way for condensation on the lead to trickle into either end - the plug end will be ok as that hangs down with UK sockets installed the right way up. You can brach off the existing circuit to feed the new receptacle, but you'll have to use proper wiring methods and materials.
|
How should I cover this drainage garden pit in my front yard? We just bought a newly constructed house. In front of it is a rectangular concrete pit, maybe 2–3 feet deep and roughly 8 feet long by 5 feet wide, with dirt at the bottom and several shrubs planted inside it. I'm not even sure what exactly it is. Our home inspector called it a "water retention garden". It was definitely newly built at the same time as the house, and our real estate agent seemed to think it was normal in new construction, to facilitate drainage or something (the plants perhaps helping to retain water). It has a drainage pipe leading into it and gets quite wet when it rains. It's not well lit at night, and we're concerned that it presents a fall hazard in the dark. We'd like to cover it or fence it off or something. But we'd like to do so without foiling its purpose or killing the plants inside. Our first idea was to hire a local metal fabricator to produce a grate to cover it. But we're concerned that this would starve the plants of light. We're also concerned that it would prevent the plants from growing naturally. The center shrub inside it is labeled as a cultivar of dogwood that can grow to six feet and needs at least partial sunlight. Another idea would be to surround it with a railing. But this is somewhat physically awkward, as there's not a ton of space for a railing to fit comfortably, and aesthetically awkward, as it would draw a lot of visual attention to the funky pit in our front yard. What's the best way to make this pit safe? Is one of these ideas clearly better? Is there a better possibility we haven't thought of? Is there anything else we should know? Epilogue (five months later) Thought I'd post an update for future searchers who are curious how this turned out. In short, we ended up installing a cable railing around the pit. We ordered the parts from one of the national online cable railing suppliers and installed it ourselves. The cost (parts plus installation kit plus shipping) was about $1,500. We used Tapcon anchors to secure the posts to the concrete. The pit is shallow enough that it doesn't need to comply with code for railings, so we spaced the cables and posts farther apart than would normally be appropriate for a cable railing installation, to make it less obtrusive. We're pretty happy with the result. Biggest mistakes: (1) The posts ended up crooked (not perfectly vertical) due to a combination of our imperfect installation and the railing supplier's imperfect welding of the post bracket. I guess maybe we should have shimmed them, but we didn't really know how. We actually had to reorder two of the four handrails because the posts were so far off of vertical that the length between them exceeded the length we had measured. (2) We should have ordered the handrails in steel rather than aluminum. They flex more than we would like. Many thanks for all the great answers and explanations. Lots of cool ideas. If we were to do it again, we might experiment with the bench or planter ideas. <Q> Those typically act as temporary rain water water storage tanks. <S> The idea being to limit the demand on the sewer system during storms. <S> The water is allowed to back-up in those pits and drain more slowly to the sewer system. <S> They may also be used in high water table areas to collect and drain the water table before the water enters your house during the rainy or snow melt season. <S> You have a few choices. <S> You could fill it with rocks, but that would take away a lot of volume and defeat the purpose of the pit <S> so I do not recommend it. <S> That may also be against code in your area. <S> You could cover it with a grating, perhaps made from metal fencing materials or a custom grating, but that wont look that wonderful and is a pain to clean out leaves, blown in trash, or someone's cigarette butts...grrr. <S> Personally I'd cover it entirely, leaving an air hole in the side and access to the maintenance pipe cap shown in the image. <S> that is make the entire decking one big attractive planter over the open box. <S> Would be a fun project too <S> :) <S> I'd make the sides of the box match the cladding I see on the wall behind. <S> I'd also extend the maintenance pipe up through the box so you can get at it without having to remove the planter. <S> Maybe have it end just under planter soil level. <A> You are going to have to make some decisions, because most of your goals are contradictory. <S> Obviously you cannot keep the tree and cover the garden. <S> Less obviously if you have insufficient room for a railing you will likely get plenty of practice pruning that dogwood once it reaches full height. <S> The first thing to consider is your concern that the area is not well lit at night. <S> I see a staircase in the background. <S> Is a motion sensor light by the door appropriate? <S> Would low-voltage landscape lighting on a timer be a better option? <S> It's hard to say without a look at the whole situation, but it's something to consider. <S> The most attractive solution is probably a cable railing system. <S> The posts could easily be on top of or inside the wall, preventing loss of space. <S> Though again it's tough to say if it'd match the house or existing stair railings. <A> I can think of two options off the top of my head: <S> get some nice plant pots/planters and surround the pit strategically to both a) conceal it and b) act as a visible barrier <S> so you don't fall into it. <S> Build a bench around the perimeter. <A> A simple fence should do, and need not be terribly visually obtrusive. <S> Alternatively a rather coarse net over would prevent people from falling in (while not encouraging them to walk on it), but not block significant light or plant growth. <A> Find out if you can fill the hole with loose fill, such as fist sized rocks, or stack hollow concrete blocks loosely in it to take up the space, but still allowing it to hold water and drain. <S> Another option would to have a grating made for the top by a welder. <S> A set of bars across the top, larger than the opening, welded to another set of bars the same size as the opening on the bottom, so it fits like a lid.
|
You could, put a fence around it to stop folks from falling in, but again, that's a bit of an eyesore and the cleaning issue. Perhaps composite decking or some other material, then make a feature out of it with planters. My personal, preferred solution would be to turn the "decking' into a box,
|
Is a yellow toilet seat normal? I moved into an apartment, and found the toilet seat is yellow, which I didn't notice before moving in. The landlord said the toilet seat turned yellow because of the sunshine, and had been cleaned. Is what she said true? What can I do about it? Thanks. <Q> Yep, sunlight will definitely change the color of plastics. <S> It's the UV light, which is invisible to you, but also causes your sunburns. <S> I'd imagine you'll be cleaning this on a more or less regular basis yourself with some kind of disinfectant. <S> I'd probably disinfect everything (a mild bleach water solution would do nicely) immediately upon moving in, just because. <S> If you replace it, it'll probably turn yellow again eventually, but it'll happen slowly and you'll either have moved out by then, or will have grown to accept it as yours, or you'll just replace it again with another cheap toilet seat. <S> I wouldn't worry about it from a sanitary standpoint, though. :-) <A> Toilet seats are components that are frequently replaced with wear and time. <S> You may not need to replace them as often as you replace the rubber components inside the tank, but you should reasonably expect to replace them every few years, to keep a new appearance. <S> The discoloration could be the sun, but it could also be caused by the cleaning products used on it. <S> Toilet's typically don't come with toilet seats, unless they are non-standard. <S> So the builder/plumber buys the toilet seat separately when installing a new unit. <S> There are two standard type of seats, "round" and "elongated". <S> What you have appears to be elongated. <S> Measure front to back, and take a picture of your measurement and go to your nearest home improvement center (Home depot, Lowes, etc) and ask for help selecting a replacement. <S> Replacements are inexpensive, with the "better" ones having a quiet close feature. <S> Be sure to match your toilet's color, if your toilet isn't white (not all are white). <S> Installation is fairly simple, and requires basic hand tools. <S> Your landlord could replace this for you, but that is really up to them, as their responsibility is that it works, not that it is pretty. <S> To make the home pretty is your responsibility, if you don't think the landlord is doing enough. <S> The landlord might be willing to install it for you if you buy it... <S> That would depend on them, and their relationship with you. <S> This is an inexpensive repair, but be aware that it becomes the landlord's property legally, so don't try to take it with you when you leave (unless you put the old one back, but don't save that unsanitary old thing, toss it in the garbage). <S> I buy nice whisper-close units and pay around $40, but very cheap ones are also available. <S> Just keep in mind that the cheaper you go, the more likely you will replace it again. <A> Hydrogen Peroxide in a big plastic bag with the toilet seat. <S> Not too much - just enough to wet it all over. <S> Tie back and put it out in the sun. <S> The UV, heat and peroxide will whiten it.
|
I replace toilet seats as a move-in practice, and I replace them again as soon as they show any signs of wear or general aging. If you really hate it, you could always try demanding that the landlord replace it, or you can find a replacement pretty cheap, like this one for $14 at Home Depot.
|
Electrical line has no juice after being shortened I have a dedicated 15amp line running to my garbage disposal. The line did not run to an outlet, but was hard-wired straight to the disposal. I was installing an outlet under the sink so that I so I could plug in one of those little hot water tap water heaters. My plan was simply to cut the line and run the part coming from the panel to an outlet (GCFI) under the sink. I would then, inside the box, pigtail the wire and pick up the hardwire to the disposal as well. When I completed this process, nothing worked. Not the outlet, not the disposal. The disposal had worked before. Now, when I test the line, the line from the panel is not live at all...nothing. I took the outlet off, and the line is still dead. The breaker doesn't seem to be loose, I've taken it out and put it back in. I actually even swapped it with another breaker I knew was working and it worked in the other spot on the panel while the working breaker wouldn't work in this spot. I guess I'm just not sure how the line could go dead so easily. I've gone into the crawlspace and tested all the wires running through there that could be the right one, they are all live. This seems then like the disposal line somehow goes dead between the crawlspace and the actual spot it comes out under the sink. Is that possible, for a line to go dead at some point without shorting the whole thing? Is there something I'm missing, or would I need to run a new line? Any help would be greatly appreciated? <Q> Usually there is a switch before the disposal. <S> You push a button, or flip a switch to turn on the disposal. <S> Did you turn the switch on? <S> If this is the case, then this was not the best option for this installation. <S> As well as the undercounter heater may require a dedicated circuit. <A> If the line has indeed gone dead, it seems most likely that there is a junction somewhere between the crawlspace and where the line re-emerges. <S> Hopefully you don't have a hidden junction somewhere or a buried splice. <S> The reason I say this is that it's extremely unlikely that you could break the wire by pulling on it. <S> If there is a break in continuity, it's probably because a splice came loose. <S> One caveat: if you are using a EMF tester, and a lot of lines are close together, it may be difficult to determine that one is off. <S> It's also possible to get induced currents. <S> Are you sure this circuit is dedicated? <S> I once had a circuit go dead after a flooding situation <S> and I thought the circuit was fried. <S> After a really long time, I determined that a GFI outlet in another area of the house was on that circuit and had flipped. <S> Also one word of caution: if you are testing the voltage across the white and black and only the white (neutral) is disconnected, you will get no reading but the black is still hot. <S> Connect a wire to a known good ground such as the ground in a three-prong extension cord into a grounded outlet and test the voltage from the black to that. <A> Disconnect everything at both ends. <S> Tie black to ground at one end and check for continuity at the other. <S> Do the same for white to ground. <S> If you don't get continuity in one of these scenarios, find the broken wire by swapping what's tied together.... <S> not that it would matter. <S> If you don't get continuity in ANY of these circuits, you'll have to replace the entire length. <S> Note that none of this will work if you have shorted any wires, though, you shouldn't be able to reset the breaker.
|
Check to make sure your wires aren't fried: Since you know the breaker, cut it off and check the lines in the crawlspace again. You should be able to find the one that is now no longer live. If you are in an older house, circuits can often route through surprisingly circuitous (no pun intended) paths.
|
Will a 1" thick granite countertop span 22 inches? I want a makeup vanity but have only enough space for one 18" base. I have granite and a base of drawers 22" deep by 18" wide. If I affix the granite atop the base and extend it to reach the wall, leaving about 22" empty space for a chair, will it be stable (assuming the granite is secured to the wall)? <Q> The granite should span this without any problems. <S> But there are a lot of variables, including how thick the granite is, as well as what loads might be applied, and whether the granite is truly free of invisible cracks. <S> If the granite is easy and inexpensive to replace, I would "go for it". <S> On the other hand, if you want to play it safe, a good underlayment or some support ribs would strengthen it. <S> The most important thing is it needs to be evenly supported everywhere it is supported. <S> Just a speck on a support that prevents it from evenly seating can cause it to crack when a load it placed on it. <S> So it needs full contact on all supports to prevent this. <S> Granite is usually placed over plywood or particle board. <S> Many people prefer plywood, claiming it is stronger. <S> That is partially true, but the fact is particle board is stiffer, and makes a better underlayment. <S> People will argue this all day long, but I have seen it demonstrated. <S> MDF is puported to be stonger, but it is less stiff. <S> The demonstration was a simple apparatus that measured how many pounds of force are required to flex a board to a small deflection, and the particle board was the most stiff. <S> The particle board will eventually fail in ways plywood won't, but to support granite, the less flex the more effective the underlayment. <A> The problem with granite is that it's brittle. <S> You didn't specify thickness, but I think even with relatively thick (eg 1 1/4" granite) <S> it's still at risk of breaking if someone jumps onto the counter top or something. <S> Granite is normally installed overtop of 3/4" plywood, with the bullnose overhanging and hiding the edge of the plywood. <S> 3/4" plywood will have no problem with this span, especially if secured to the back wall as well. <A> Any granite installer will tell you that 10" is the max without supports. <S> It really doesn't matter the thickness either, as they will crack on fissure lines. <S> Now you there are some really strong granite formations that can handle more than 10" <S> but this is all based on load bear. <S> If you promise that no one will ever ever stand or sit or lay something heavy on that section then it won't break. <S> Granite doesn't break for no reason. <S> The same could be said with granite at a 50" span (unless the granite's own weight took it down). <S> To give you an idea of granite spans, if I am putting a "black" granite in a kitchen, installers will be fine going over a dishwasher without a "top". <S> Dishwasher is 24"... <S> so you say what about 10". <S> Well it is supported on each side <S> so the breach is only 2" not 14". <S> If I were to get some exotic blue or red I might be putting plywood flush with cabinet tops. <S> About plywood - installing on plywood is just a poor method. <S> If you bullnose it is OK <S> , however it makes the counters too permanent in my opinion. <S> I prefer directly on cabinets with corner block gluing. <S> As for what you should do with your bathroom... <S> If this is a big piece of granite that you are paying a lot for I would use some metal bracing between the cabinets. <S> You can by these stock or have a local welder <S> do these for you. <S> If you wanted to get really fancy your granite installer could router the metal bar sections out (they should have braces in hand or buy them themselves). <S> If you have metal bracing installed times 2 you will never see or feel it unless you are lying on the floor. <A> i have had dozens of granite countertops done for me, and here are my comments: 1) <S> plywood base is always necessary to space off the granite from the cabinets properly and two provide a base to glue to. <S> i have seen many jobs where the granite is installed without the base plywood, only to have it fracture later (usually when someone sits on the counter or jumps up on it to get something high). <S> its a cheapout that lots of shoddy corner-cutters do to save time and money. <S> if you put no plywood under the granite, it will generally fail the first time a significant load or impact is put on the granite. <S> 2) the normal proper way to do granite is plywood first, silicone adhesive to mount the granite to the ply. <S> then fiberglass mesh epoxied to the bottom of the granite to strengthen the granite and mitigate cracks or fracture. <S> avoid any of these steps and you are getting a sub par job. <S> but like everything in life, you get what you pay for. <S> 3) when you want to freespan granite over anything larger than 12", just use steel plate. <S> 1/4" steel plate is easy to cut or have cut (if you don't have a plasma cutter) and easy to work with. <S> just install it over 1/2" ply wherever you haf to freespan. <S> i personally wouldn't go more than 24" with this approach, but thats up to you. <S> the largest freespan we have ever done with literally no gussets was 60", but we put that on 3/4" aluuminum plate. <S> it was completely hidden by the bullnose, and was really not that expensive. <S> i think a piece of 3\4 x 24 5000 series aluminum was <S> around $100/ft. <S> not much if it solves the problem well.
|
Install the granite on top of the plywood and you should have no problems.
|
How to clean vinyl floor tile not cleaned in 25 years I have vinyl tiles on my kitchen floor that have not been really cleaned for some 25 years. Scrubbing with regular soap using a hand-held, floor scrub brush has basically no effect. (I tried Simple Green, also vinegar.) After rubbing part of one tile with "Goof-Off" (a nasty solvent) for 5-10 minutes, it looked quite clean. I do not want to spent the time or use the amount of solvent that would be needed to clean the rest of the tiles that way. Any suggestions? (I am willing to rent equipment, if needed.) <Q> If it were my floor and I had to keep it I would test a small section with straight bleach - cracks and tile. <S> Let bleach sit for a good 30 mins and wipe. <S> Wait 1-2 days. <S> If there is no discoloration then that is my weapon. <S> I would then mop the floor with extremely hot water and bleach (10% volume). <S> At first I would just recommend hitting the floor with the hot water and bleach and letting a bit of the solution sit on the vinyl - not enough to leak elsewhere. <S> After 3-4 moppings you can probably start scrubbing harder. <S> And you will need a steel brush for the cracks. <S> But the basic premise is the boiling water will shock the dirt free and the bleach will start eating at the next layer. <S> You could do this in 2 moppings with a heavy amount of grit or 10 moppings letting the water/bleach do most of the work. <S> Note: <S> This is just what I would do personally. <S> Obviously using bleach has a chance to damage the tile. <S> but I am not sure all manufacturers would suggest this. <A> Visit a rental store. <S> Rent a floor buffer (machine) and buy some pads to use with it, and floor stripper (chemical to work with machine.) <S> Or, indeed, replace the tile which might have a better result and really should not cost a huge amount. <S> Your chemistry experiments trend the wrong direction for success, IMHO - floor stripper is made for the job and generally effective, but if attacking it with other things is more your style, baking soda (or washing soda - sodium bicarbonate or sodium carbonate) and water (a base, not an acid, turns grease into soap, but not so harsh as lye [sodium hydroxide - nasty stuff] and no fumes) would be a better approach to try. <S> I cleaned out a very badly burnt pot this weekend which was going nowhere with soap using baking soda and water paste (and scrubbing.) <S> Ammonia (do not mix with bleach <S> DO NOT mix with bleach!) <S> is a fumier (i.e. smelly) approach. <S> Solvents and plastic tiles are a very bad combination. <A> Try using some Goop on the floor and let it sit overnight. <S> This stuff listed as 'non-toxic' and will work itself into cracks and crevices. <S> Wipe it up the next day with a damp rag. <S> If it doesn't work, it has numerous other uses and is inexpensive.
|
I have used bleach on many many vinyl tiles without damage though - You are going to need a mop with a scrubbing brush.
|
how do you install laminate flooring with multiple rooms at one time with click flooring (since you can only put it in one way) how do you install click laminate flooring when it can only click in one way?in the picture every room is getting done that doesn't have an x. the red lines are which way the boards are going. only that room is done. the hallway and 2 other small rooms would be going the right way, but how can you do the big awkward sized room with all of it going together right, because going backwards they wouldn't click in? <Q> We did this and cheated; at some doorways we stopped and covered the join with a rather smart strip of brass. <S> This makes it a lot easier, especially if: <S> your house is not quite square <S> the floors are not quite flat <S> you have big temperature variations <S> you want to have different rooms not running the same way <S> you want the doors to close snugly <A> I did this in my house. <S> When installing the laminate you click the boards together from the top. <S> When you change direction you have to turn the board around and click it in from the bottom. <S> Its not real easy to do, but it worked for me. <A> You can do this without major transitions strips but this requires that the center room is square. <S> I would start in the top right opening of the center room. <S> Do the center room. <S> After completing the center room you have a choice to make in each room. <S> Are the strips parallel enough to the first wall of each room? <S> If so just keep going. <S> If no, you will need a t-strip. <A> When I did my flooring ( Harmonics flooring , from Costco), I bought the installation kit. <S> It came with a pull bar and a tapping block, which were really useful. <S> The block was intended to do what you are asking about. <S> It has contours to protect the edges while tapping the flooring plank with a hammer. <S> The edges which lock together have just enough give to them that you can force them together. <S> I assume it can be done with other brands... <S> By the way, your house is almost certainly not square. <S> But I started on a different wall which turned out to be slightly non-parallel to the tile. <S> I had to remove the edge boards against the wall, push the whole one-piece floor around until it lined up with the tile, and then re-cut the original boards! <A> Do the large, long room til you get to the doorway and then spend some time on that first awkward strip in the corridor to connect both rooms. <S> However, like someone else said the house is almost certainly a little out somewhere <S> and I think you might have trouble laying it all in one run. <S> If you're not particularly bothered by discrete threshold strips at the doorways, I'd go for them, better in the long run to manage movement etc.
|
So, when placing a board on the "wrong" edge of the installation, you simply lay it flat, use the block, and gently tap it until the edges overlap and come together. If you install a single floor throughout all of your rooms, you will have to choose which wall will run perfectly parallel to the boards, and the rest might be off by a few degrees. In my case, it was important for me to match parallel lines against the tile of a fireplace hearth.
|
Why won't my Kenmore front load washing machine start? I have a Kenmore 796-4116 front load washing machine. It's <2 years old. It powers on and there are no error codes or indicators of trouble on the display. I turn the knob to select a wash cycle and press Start/Pause to begin but it never starts the cycle. The door latches as it always has and there are no broken parts on the door or on the machine where the latch goes. I see no obvious physical damage of any kind anywhere on the machine. I have power cycled the machine, unplugged and replugged from the wall. The manual's troubleshooting section does not have an entry for this issue. The chime works and I can turn the knob to designate any of the wash cycles but none of them will start. <Q> It's possible the door switch has gone bad. <S> Next possible is a bad panel. <S> My money is on the door switch. <S> Occasionally slamming the door will make it work once or twice. <S> There are videos to show how to replace the switch. <S> Be sure to unplug the machine before attempting any repairs ! <A> Kenmore h.e. top-load washer- <S> about seven years old-Mine would not start and when turned off the door lock light would not turn off <S> but the door was still unlocked... <S> Was about to remove the door lock mechanism but unplugged the machine until the door lock light turned off- <S> plugged back the washer in again <S> and it rebooted itself and is working fine- hope this might help anyone dealing with a similar scenario. <S> You might want to try it before tearing into the machine. <S> ( this is the first time i have ever had a problem of any sort with this machine ) <S> Good Luck! <A> This just happened to me - a 10-yr old Sears Kenmore.... <S> was thinking about throwing in the towel and getting a new one. <S> The control panel was lit up and working - you could select any cycle but when I hit the "start" button I would get a quick error signal "beep beep beep beep" but no error code (F22, F23 etc...). <S> I noticed that the clicking sound made when the door latch was locked <S> was not occurring (this is the first thing you should hear after a 2-3 second delay once you hit the start button...). <S> So I found a video on repair-clinc.com that showed how to replace the door locking mechanism ($75.00 part). <S> I simply pulled the locking mechanism out and did a quick "unfasten / refasten" of the three electrical connectors on the locking mechanism and reinstalled it.... <S> IT worked!!!! <S> that simple... <S> It took less than 5 minutes and it saved me $1000.00 <S> I was going to spend on a new on...
|
If this works, it's definitely the door switch.
|
Why does one stove top burner spark the other and vise versa? I have a two front stove top burners, burner A and burner B. When I "ignite" A it will spark the spark plug for A & B. When I "ignite" B it will also spark the spark plug for A & B. its a stainless steal simple GE stove top and oven. Not sure what the model is. <Q> There is a single spark igniter with two ignition gaps. <S> It ensures that if you left on the gas on the other burner, it would light and you would turn it off. <S> Either that or the manufacturer did this to save on parts. <A> It's simply that there's only one spark generating circuit with several switches (and several spark gaps). <S> Making separate circuits would add to the cost for no benefit, and switching the high voltage side isn't easy <S> (you'd get sparks inside the switches). <S> So this is the simplest way. <S> Spark ignition that doesn't use mains electricity or batteries (i.e. piezoelectric ignition) similarly uses one spark generator with multiple outputs. <A> I assume you are saying this is a problem. <S> I just had the same issue with my Bosch stovetop when I had two burners going and a third burner, all in the back row, started sparking on its own. <S> I had to allow the third one to ignite just to stop the sparking. <S> When I finished cooking, turning off all the burners also stopped the third from sparking. <S> I called service <S> and they told me this was a safety issue <S> and they would send someone out to service it at their expense even though the unit is almost five years old. <S> Of course, it took two weeks and the problem has never surfaced since that one time, and the service guy could find nothing wrong with the unit. <S> So it might be worth a call to customer service for your unit and see what they have to say.
|
You have a single igniter that when triggered sparks every burner.
|
Using a multimeter to check for problems in electric sockets I have a MUT-830 multimeter . I would like to use it to do a basic saftey check of the electric sockets in my home. Specifically, I want to verify that: there is grounding, the resistance is not too high (so that the socket should not get too hot). How can I do this? <Q> This type of tester will show if the outlets are grounded and can test GFCI breakers by pushing the button. <S> With home wiring checking the resistance is not a very good test because there may be a low resistance with an unloaded circuit but <S> under load the resistance can increase (ohm meters do not work on live circuits). <S> you can also check the voltage on a circuit but if unloaded the same problem can arise with a circuit with no load you may see 120 volts <S> but then a load the voltage can drop significantly. <S> Making sure not to over load outlets (not adding power strips) and running circuits below 80% of there rated capacity is all that is needed in most homes. <A> I have aluminum wiring for branch circuits (12 AWG for 15-A and 10 AWG for 20-A) so I am interested in the resistance of the connections and the voltage drops under load. <S> I plug a short extension cord with multiple plug-ins into each receptacle under test. <S> A put a voltmeter across the hot and neutral of one plug-in of the extension cord and plug a hairdryer in another. <S> I read the voltage drop when the hairdryer is turned on. <S> (It would be convenient to have an adapter which would plug into a receptacle and securely accept the probes of the voltmeter, but I have not found one.) <S> This hairdryer is listed as 1600 W on the high setting and this is what I use to load the circuit. <S> This draws about 13 A (1600 W/125 V) and is enough to cause significant voltage drops in my wiring, without tripping the a breaker. <S> (13 A is higher than necessary and 10 A to 12 <S> A would do.) <S> I am interested in finding the instances of larger voltage drops between two sequential receptacles which would indicate high resistance connections. <S> Of course, where there is a longer run of wire between two receptacles there will be a larger voltage drop than for shorter runs and this is not a fault condition. <S> The above is how I test receptacles without knowing the order of the receptacles in the circuit. <S> If the order is known, it is more informative to plug the hairdryer into the last receptacle from the panel and test the voltage drop at each receptacle going back to the panel. <A> You can probably save yourself some time by just picking up an inexpensive outlet tester (less than $10 at most home improvement stores). <S> If you're going to test all of your outlets, this method is fast, reliable, and safe. <S> The one I've linked will let you test ground fault interrupters (GFCIs) too. <S> You can do the same tests (except the GFCI) with your meter, of course. <S> It's a matter of measuring the voltage between the three conductors on each outlet. <S> The "hot" conductor on an outlet is the smallest (narrow) slot, and obviously the ground is the larger, round pin. <S> It doesn't matter which way you connect the meter, and of course you'd want to be set to AC Voltage. <S> Hot to Neutral: 105-125 <S> VAC Hot to Ground: 105-125 <S> VAC Neutral to Ground: <S> 0 <S> These correspond to the three lights on the outlet tester. <S> I'd still recommend the tester for two reasons: You're not going to zap yourself with it (which you might if, say, you're not careful with the meter's probes or the wires connected to them). <S> Newer outlets are often Tamper Resistant ("TR"), which means they have a shutter designed to block things like meter probes; but a dedicated tester won't have a problem with these. <S> Neither method will, unfortunately, tell you about resistance or other problems. <S> This is very difficult to measure safely on a live circuit (with high resistance but no load, you'd still see normal-looking voltages) and is probably best left to a qualified electrician.
|
To check grounding and polarity a simple outlet tester like this would be a better tool for the DIY home owner.
|
How to fix my LED track lighting that is flickering? I replaced all of the bulbs in the track light with LEDs. I also replaced the two switches with LED compatible smart switches (dimmers). The furthest light on the track has been flickering and recently the next one has started to flickers as well. The flickering started when I changed the bulbs to LED and I figured that changing the switches would fix it, it didn't. Do I have to replace the track lighting completely with "LED Compatible" ones? NOTE: The house was built about 19 years ago. <Q> If you look on the box/packaging that the LED bulbs came in, they will tell you the type of switch they require. <S> Some LED bulbs work fine with CFL dimmers (which are the cheaper one's that some manufacturer's will say can dim LEDs) but the majority of 120v LED bulbs require an ELV dimmer. <S> Another thing worth noting is that a lot of smart dimming switches are rated for about 150W. Common LED bulb wattage is at around 9W. <S> This means that switch will only support up to 16 bulbs. <A> I had this issue in a ceiling fan that has 4 candelabra-style lights. <S> When I replaced them with LEDs the remote-control circuitry didn't have enough load on it to be able to decide what to do. <S> In the end, I left an incandescent bulb in one socket and that fixed the problem. <S> Now the remote-control works just like before. <S> And since I used the Cool White LEDs I get more light for less power. <A> So I called the electric company and told them the issue I'm having and what I've done so far. <S> They said that it sounds like the issue is a common one that happens when the electric company "polls" the house for usage amounts. <S> I was then asked when the flickering happens and to see if it happens at a certain time (10am, 8pm). <S> This is exactly what happened. <S> Within a few minutes of those times, the lights will flicker for a few seconds and then stop. <S> They said that I can't do anything about it. <S> I'm not sure if this is the "correct" answer <S> but it may helps other that have a similar issue.
|
And lastly, if you have any mixed bulb type/vendors on the circuit, it can also cause flickering/conflicts.
|
How to make an internal hinged door harder to open I have a one and half year old who often opens the internal hinged door which would give him access to the stairs and outside. The door is nonlockable and we wouldn't want to it be lockable. Its second latch (?)- hidden metal thing part of doors mechanism that joins the door to side that keeps a door shut- is broken. <Q> There are premade solutions for that situation, try searching the web for "toddler proof doorknob. <S> " Here's a random one from Target. <S> This one is designed for your style handle. <S> Keep in mind that it will only work if the door handles turn independently. <S> ie, can you open the door without moving the interior handle? <S> In a worst-case scenario you would need to replace the lever with a conventional round knob and place a childproof cage on one side. <S> That's a simple project you can do on your own. <A> The best thing to do is fit a latch or lock up high. <S> Anything to make the door take more force to open will make it more likely to shut on your small person and hurt them. <S> It's also not likely to work very well. <S> As you need adults to be able to open the door from both sides, a bolt at the top isn't an option for you. <S> A spline key bolt can be opened from both sides but needs a key. <S> A normal door handle mounted unusually high is common in nurseries and other childcare settings and most doors (even hollow ones) have a suitable place. <S> Alternatively you can sometimes find thumb turn both sides latches but these are rare. <S> Fitting new a new door handle is a routine DIY job, but any carpenter or handyman could do it <A> Our solution was put a hook and tie a ribbon loop. <S> Our child loves pulling the door ajar. <S> He can pull ribbon off but his compulsiveness means he thinks of the ribbon as normal so he puts it back.
|
We can take of the loop from either side of the door with some risk of him shutting door on our fingers.
|
Why is my florescent transformer buzzing? Is it due to being the wrong voltage? I am using 230v to 240v fluorescent light transformers for T8 36W 120 cm fluorescent tubes, but I found that the transformers are buzzing. The buzzing should not be happening, even though it is new and very high quality. I searched for the reason and found that the input voltage is 250v. Here is a picture of it: Do you think this is the reason? and can anyone describe why this is happening? the transformer i am using <Q> Buzzing is usual to those kind of ballasts. <S> The excessive THD may produce spikes that are beyond ballast's ability. <A> LN36.201 is not a transformer <S> It's a ballast. <S> It's an inductive current limiter - a series coil for your tube. <S> Without it your tube would drain, once ignited, as much current as there is available until the fuse blows. <S> Because they are coils, they also act as electric magnets and vibrate. <S> That makes the sound if anything is slightly loose. <S> A few drops of glue can fix the problem, if the moving (=buzzing) seam is visible and has no electricity. <S> You can easily test if something is loose by pressing the ballasts by hand and this way suppressing the vibration. <S> 250V is a substantial overvoltage. <S> It makes the ballasts more noisy because the current is higher. <S> The current in theory is at 250V only 8,6 % bigger than at 230V. <S> In practice the difference is bigger because the iron core in the ballast start to get saturated and it does not limit the current as effectively. <S> Addendum <S> : Light dimmers and DC-->AC Mains converters often produce distorted, non-sinusoidal output voltages. <S> Those can easily to be heard from the ballasts as increased buzzing. <S> Ballasts are originally designed for sinusoidal AC voltage. <A> The ballast shows a table with 2 options but no wiring diagram with 2 options and since you said "i am using a 230 - 240 V fluorescent light transformers for T8 36W 120 cm Fluorescent tubes " <S> I assume you are only using 1 tube per ballast. <S> If two per ballast , it will make noise in parallel but not in series. <S> Personally I prefer Phillips quad output magnetic ballasts , each 4 independent that do not all have to be used for 1m 32W T8 tubes with triphosphor and high efficacy 88 Lumen/w tubes. <S> Voltage tolerance should be at least 10% or +/-24V <A> Buzzing sometimes means that the ballast is saturating (which can be caused by DC current). <S> One source of DC current, is rectification inside the fluorescent lamp tube. <S> Try removing the lamp (tube), and reversing its direction. <S> Or,fit a new one. <S> Another source of buzzing is overcurrent; replacing a 40W tube with a36W tube might be effective. <S> That ballast has a date code (01) indicating 2001 manufacture; modern ballasts (electronic, almost all of them) might be available to retrofit your fixture,and will usually be more energy efficient than the magnetic ballasts of yesteryear. <A> This ballast obviously a vacuum impregnated finishing and contains no loose parts to vibrate or hum. <S> The source of the noise you hear most likely from the lamp casing in which the ballast is mounted. <S> The casing normally made from sheet metal which reacts physically to magnetization fields of the ballast. <S> You can correct this by mount the ballast tightly with additional screws.
|
However, the reason for excessive buzzing might be that your input power is provided from an inverter that generates pseudo-sinusoidal wave.
|
Framing around depressed area of floor: a good plan? I'm installing a grandfather clock in my house. Problem: my first floor ceiling is 88" high, and the clock is 94" high. I can't modify the clock, so I'll have to modify my house. The solution is fairly simple: lower a small area of the floor by 7". The existing floor is 13/16" x 2 1/2" red oak boards on plank subflooring. The outside blue rectangle shows the edge of the area to be cut and rebuilt (26" x 15"); the inside blue rectangle shows the final footprint of the clock. I've figured out the joists (I'll have to cut a joist and add a doubled header) and the rest of the framing. My final problem is how to finish the edge of the hole. I'll be cutting the existing flooring in-place, as it would be a can of worms to pull any of it up and then replace it. That means the edges won't be perfect, so I can't just butt new framing boards against the old without leaving ugly gaps. I'd also like to properly define the edge of the hole so that things don't always roll into it. So, I'm thinking to do the equivalent of an overlapping stair nose . I couldn't find the exact molding I'd need, so I'm planning to cut it from 1" oak stair treads which have a rounded edge and are 12" wide. I'll cut 3" boards from the rounded edge and then shape them further with table saw and sander. There will be a 1/2" x 3/16" tab on the edge of the board to cover the edge of the existing flooring. I'm also thinking to stain the new oak boards to match the cherry wood of the clock; sides of the depression will be 1x pine painted trim white, and the bottom will be the remaining oak tread material finished with polyurethane. Does this sound like a good plan? Any concerns about that 3/16" thick tab being overly fragile? EDIT: This question is NOT asking whether it's worth modifying my house to fit this clock. Even if that wasn't clear to me, it would be too opinion-based for this site. Just presume that there's a really good reason for me to do so. EDIT2: There are good reasons why I'm going into the floor rather than into the ceiling. First, it won't look as good; the focus of the clock is the top, and that will be hidden from view, or at least in a dark nook in the ceiling. Second, I can't tip the clock into place; it must be vertical when the mechanism is installed. That means that there must be room to slide the top case forward and off the clock while it is in place, which means the plaster hole will be substantial. Add the joist modifications and the hole gets even bigger. Final problem: it's a swirl-textured ceiling, so the repairs would be obvious unless I replaced the whole ceiling. <Q> the 3/16 x 1/2 overlap tab is a little thin in oak, but it will probably be fine given the other structure you propose. <S> i will offer this though: you are mental!!! <S> it seems like your plan is well thought out, but wouldn't it be much easier to just make a hole in the ceiling? <S> then its just plaster and paint? <S> if you ever decide to not have the clock or you move out, its far easier to patch a ceiling than a floor. <S> if it was me, i would just cut the clock. <S> to remove 8" or so out of a grandfather clock may be impossible (style of cabinet, length of pendulum, etc). <S> however, many times, the casework of the clock is just a hollow carcass with what is essentially a baseboard and legs bolted to the bottom. <S> if you can do what you propose, surely you can build a modified bottom for the clock? or sell the clock and buy a shorter one??? <S> however, its your clock and house and i am sure you have your reasons. <A> Any concerns about that 3/16" thick tab being overly fragile? <S> My main concern is that you will finish the floor woodwork without incident or problem, install all the new oak molding without chip or blemish, break off at least one of the fragile tabs when moving the clock into place, lose your temper at the whole thing, and smash the clock to matchwood. <S> Leaving an inexplicable useless sunken pit in your floor. <S> With a chipped edge. <S> This gives the profile you specify, but it requires milling the edge of the existing oak flooring in place. <S> To do this, use your circular saw with a fine crosscut blade. <S> Set the bevel angle to 45° and the depth to about 3/4 in. <S> You can manage almost the entire lengths of the cuts with this method, and finish up with a crosscut hand saw. <S> Alternately, if you're willing to change your specified profile, you can avoid milling the floor if you build the edge like this: <S> This gives a much stronger framing effect, but it could be okay since persons will seldom step over it. <S> Also it's more effective at stopping a rolling ball or toy. <S> The shim should be hardwood for dimensional stability. <S> It keeps the load off the projecting edge when anyone steps on the frame. <A> If the point of the bullnose is to cover untidy saw marks then all that should be needed is outside corner molding (which comes is several sizes). <S> Also, since a joist is being cut, it should be replaced with sistered 2x10's (2x8's min.) and reinforced with metal joist hangars and corner braces. <S> Don't forget, the clock will be sitting on a new (lowered floor) which will also need to be supported. <S> You'll have to create FJs for that, too.
|
Avoid the risk by cutting the molding like this: Use small finish nails to tack a straight edge scrap parallel to the desired cut, at the distance required by the dimension of the saw's foot plate. At least, that's what I would do.
|
Replacing light bulb in an external light I recently moved into a new rental house, and we have a porch light by the front door. It hasn't worked since we moved in, so I'd like to replace the light bulb which is completely enclosed by a glass cover, as shown below. I'm assuming that the cover should unscrew, but try as I might (even wearing rubberised gloves for extra grip) I've not been able to remove it. I don't want to use excessive force, for fear of breaking the light fitting. Can anyone suggest how I might remove the cover? <Q> It should unscrew, CCW of course. <S> And, before you screw it back in, put wax from a candle on the thread of both the glass and metal part and tighten with little pressure. <A> Check with the landlord before you do anything more. <S> If you break the fixture, he can take it out of your damage deposit. <S> The cover may be a bayonet mount. <S> Is that fixture to the left a photoelectric switch for the fixture? <S> If so, that may be where the fault is. <A> Spray WD40 where plastic meets the metallic fixture. <S> Leave for 5 minutes then try with rubber gloves. <S> Sometimes, those brass screws hold the plastic fixture as well. <S> Look for them too by feeling them behind the plastic dome. <A> This type of fixture is commonly referred to as a Jelly Jar. <S> They are normally threaded and have a rubber seal. <S> With the set screws loosened or removed I have found it helpful to work the glass both clockwise and counterclockwise. <S> The rubber seal can be the problem (stuck to the glass and the fixture) and or the threads in the aluminum fixture are corroded (heavy oxidation is quite common). <S> By working the globe back and forth I have been able to free many but not all globes from the fixtures. <S> If you do get it to break loose keep working it both ways while unscrewing to help clear the threads. <S> If there is a set screw some penetrating oil added to the hole will act as a lubricant.
|
Some models do have set screws to prevent the glass from vibrating loose. A strap wrench is the next thing to try.
|
Can I handle-tie two 120V CH breakers for a 240V load? Due to an ordering error a long time ago, I have too many 30A 1-pole "CH" brand breakers. (these are single breakers, not tandem/double-stuff). As you probably realize, there isn't much call for 120V/30A circuits, so these breakers are a dunsel. However I have need for 30A 2-pole breakers for 240V and 120/240V circuits. Can I use a handle-tie listed for these breakers to combine two 1-pole breakers into a 240V 2-pole breaker? I am under NEC 2014. <Q> It may not provide a legal breaker for a 30-A 240-V circuit such as for a dryer that uses 240 V and 120 V because the tie bar only works for manual shut-off. <S> If one breaker trips due to over-current, it is not assured to pull off the other breaker unless that is an explicitly stated property of this model breaker. <S> I think the only use of tied 1-pole breakers is for powering circuits from two breakers with a shared neutral, an arrangement which I think is called a multi-wire branch circuit. <S> But that would probably be with 20-A or 15-A breakers. <S> I think you should return the extra 1-pole 30-A breakers. <A> The Eaton type CH is typical among modern breakers in that multipole common tripping is performed by an internal mechanism, not by the handle tie. <S> This is noted in the Eaton catalog in the spec description of the type CH breaker (page V1-T1-31 of the Eaton catalog, emphasis mine): <S> Product Description <S> Quick-make, quick-break switch mechanism combined with inverse time element tripping operation and trip-free handle design. <S> Type CH circuit breakers trip to the OFF position, eliminating nuisance callbacks. <S> The CHF family also includes a trip flag to differentiate between a trip and the breaker being turned off. <S> The thermal-magnetic trip curve avoids nuisance tripping on mild overloads while reacting almost instantaneously to severe short-circuit conditions. <S> Multipole breakers have internal common trip connection to operate all poles simultaneously. <S> Handles are marked with ON-OFF indication and ampere rating of the breaker. <S> and in footnote 2 on the accessories table <S> (page V1-T1-38): Handle ties: typically used to join two similar independent single-pole breakers to form a two-pole noncommon trip breaker. <S> This means that the combination of 2 single pole type CH breakers and a handle tie is only usable for 240V only or 120V <S> only circuits as per NEC 240.15(B)(1) and 240.15(B)(2): <S> (B) Circuit Breaker as Overcurrent Device. <S> Circuit breakers shall open all ungrounded conductors of the circuit both manually and automatically unless otherwise permitted in 240.15(B)(1), (B)(2), (B)(3), and (B)(4). <S> (1) Multiwire Branch Circuits. <S> Individual single-pole circuit breakers, with identified handle ties, shall be permitted as the protection for each ungrounded conductor of multi-wire branch circuits that serve only single-phase line-to-neutral loads. <S> (2) Grounded Single-Phase Alternating-Current Circuits. <S> As to breaker ratings, the CH line has you covered as well. <S> All standard (i.e. no GF or AF functions) <S> single pole CH, CHF, CHT, CH-HID, CHP, CH-M50, CH-HM and CHP-HM breakers are rated 120/240VAC, so they are listed for handle tied service on 240VAC only split phase circuits. <S> Furthermore, the UL Circuit Breaker Marking Guide states in paragraph 40 <S> that An external handle tie alone does not qualify as a common trip mechanism — <S> a breaker of this type is marked to indicate it is an independent trip breaker. <A> Adding listed handle ties to 2 120v breakers provides a legal 240 breaker. <S> Added <S> The 2014 NEC hand book 210.4.B commentary identifies that 2 single pole breakers with an identified handle tie or a 2 pole breaker is allowed. <S> 210.4 is multiwire branch circuits. <S> 230.71.B single pole switches or breakers shall be permitted on multiwire circuits, 1 pole for each ungrounded conductor.. with identified handle ties. <S> 240.15.B.2 allows for line to line loads 120/240 breaker grounded system & identified handle ties. <A> No you can't use two single pole circuit breakers and tie the handles together per article 240.8 240.8 FUSES OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN PARALLELFuses and circuit breakers shall be permitted to be connected in parallel where they are factory assembled in parallel and listed as a unit. <S> Individual fuses, circuit breakers, or combinations <S> thereof shall NOT otherwise be connected in parallel <A> What if you were using gfci breakers? <S> Jumped the neutrals together that way when one trips they both trip and they are breaker tied together. <S> Already tested it and it works fine. <S> There for I took 2 single pole 120v. <S> 20amp breakers and made them 20amp 240v. <S> I have not found any issues with that.
|
In grounded systems, individual single-pole circuit breakers rated 120/240 volts ac, with identified handle ties, shall be permitted as the protection for each ungrounded conductor for line-to-line connected loads for single-phase circuits.
|
What type of plywood for shower bench? I'm framing in a 40" x 16" shower bench and I plan on using 3/4" plywood. I plan on using granite to sit on top of the seat. I would like to know what kind of plywood I should use for the seat? Should I use pressure treated? I've heard that pressure treated wood is not recommended to use inside the home. What about sheathing plywood? <Q> I would skip the plywood and use Kerdi board. <S> It will cost a bit more but it's very easy to cut, very light weight <S> so it's easy to handle, and it is completley impervious to moisture. <S> You can get it 4x8 sheets and build a custom seat or one of their pre-made seats, if you can find one in a size you can work with. <S> Here's a video from the maker of Kerdi-Board about making a bench out of the material. <A> The answer is - it depends. <S> Actually Pine sheathing plywood is the common type I have seen used for benches and steps in showers by my tile guys. <S> I personally wouldn't use PT plywood. <S> Basement outer wall framing is a perfect example - and bottom plates is a requirement in most areas. <S> However I have dealt with PT dimensional lumber and plywood and there is a significant chance of warping - even if you get your stuff from a good lumber yard. <S> If big box you have a 80% chance it warps unless you secure its shape. <S> The point is the last thing you want is a bow in the plywood on day 4. <S> The lumber used to frame your shower should never get wet. <S> So you don't need PT. <S> And even if your shower framing got wet, that would be the very least of your worries. <S> Meaning get quality wood but not PT. <S> So I would answer that this should be plastic plus plywood with kerdi membrane over or it should be hardiboard plus some sort of roll-on waterproofing like redgard (I do not plastic behind hardiboard as I feel it doesn't weep so <S> putting plastic would cause an area that retains water that doesn't dry which will weep down and destroy whatever is below it). <S> Note: <S> Make sure you slope your bench in (doesn't need to be dramatic). <S> The back of the bench is the most vulnerable part of the whole shower. <S> I would make sure my waterproofing is perfect there. <S> You don't know how many benches I have seen with no slope or sloped towards the wall. <A> I would recommend kendi as well, but no matter what you do, you need to encapsulate it all with a membrane. <S> RedGuard is a common product. <S> The ability for the material it to deal with moisture shouldn't be the issue, making sure moisture doesn't ever get to it should be the priority. <A> I would consider using cement board.
|
If you are using Kerdi membrane plywood would be acceptable. PT is perfectly acceptable to use in a home but its purpose is to handle water/moisture that should be common to the situation.
|
What to do with a gap in the countertop next to kitchen sink? I screwed up cutting the hole for the 25" drop in sink on my $160 countertop. It's just a little too wide. What are my options besides buying a larger 33 inch sink and being more careful next time? <Q> You can put a piece of wood on the edge, scoot the sink over by 1/8", and epoxy and caulk. <S> If this sink is highly utilized I wouldn't expect this to look pretty after six months. <S> You have the weight of dishes and water in the sink, you have dirt and grime, just nothing that will hold up like a countertop. <S> Even thinking of a weird solution that could cost you $10-20 to look crappy, a good sink can usually be had for $30-40 <S> so I would personally install a bigger one. <A> You'd be left with a seam in the small strip in front of and behind the sink, but that's not out of the ordinary. <S> I built a custom corner-sink top for my previous home's kitchen with routed oak edges. <S> I intentionally seamed it near the corners of the sink to minimize seam length. <S> It performed without issue for 16 years. <S> You might seal the cut ends before bringing them together to prevent swelling of the particle board. <A> Thanks for the responses. <S> I went with a new Kohler 33" two basin sink and was more careful cutting the hole. <S> It looks fine. <S> Actually the old 25" sink is more than 20 years old and needed replacing anyway. <S> The new sink has 9" basins. <S> All in all no harm done with the screw up. <A> You cannot jury-rig this kind of screw-up. <S> You have to buy a new counter and make the right size hole, or buy a larger sink to fit the hole (which you will have to cut again anyway). <S> First of all, the sink needs sufficient support around its perimeter for clamping, sealing and support. <S> You have to have a good bead of sealant underneath to prevent water ingress under the sink. <S> If you don't know how or don't realize the error, you have to make the hole for the sink just big enough for the bowl to slip into the counter. <S> YouTube can show you. <S> Secondly, laminate joints are never, ever, ever, ever, ever under the sink flange. <S> Nowhere near the sink if I am in charge. <S> Laminate joints are not waterproof, and any water at all will always wick into the substrate below the laminate, causing swelling and further leakage. <S> Thirdly, remember that you have cabinetry below this area. <S> If water gets into it through a botched sink installation, you will get mold, wrecked cabinetry, and further damage below the area, sometimes causing thousands of dollars of damage in a very short time. <S> Just do it right. <S> You messed it up, we all make mistakes. <S> Own it though and fix it properly. <S> if its a customer, you owe it to them to do it properly. <S> If its your own home, you will just be repairing it over and over and over again, wasting your time.
|
If, by chance, the countertop overhangs at one end, you could slice the top crosswise somewhere in the sink cutout, remove about 1/2" (or whatever it takes to make the sink cover the hole), and shift the overhanging portion toward the sink.
|
What risks may arise from putting a capacitor on the supply line to the door-bell? The door-bell at the residence is (nominally, was) a simple buzzer between live/neutral that sounded Bzzzzzzzz using a simple electromagnetic hammer powered by the 250VAC. The problem is - some creature went and kept the button pressed too long burning out the buzzer (and some wiring too). Things to do now - Gut the destroyed wiring til lthe nearest junction (I can do this) Replace buzzer (No problem) Try to put some kind of a delay so the buzzer does not keep receiving supply. For the last my plan is (admittedly simplistic - feel free to shoot me down) to put an AC capacitor from the ceiling fan (1.5MFD or thereabouts) in series between the line to the buzzer. I'm hoping the buzzer will receive supply until the capacitor is charged up after which it won't until the capacitor discharges on it's own (which may be a while). What, if any, are the risks inherent in this scheme? Should I put the capacitor in parallel to the buzzer? <Q> Don't do anything like this. <S> Mains voltage is not a toy <S> and it's not for tinkering. <S> Everything that touches mains voltage should be UL/TUV/etc. <S> * listed as mains equipment and installed according to its labeling and instructions. <S> Bare components from the electronics supply are not equipment: <S> they lack labeling and instructions for use in mains wiring, and cannot be so used. <S> It's very likely the device failed not because of over-use, but because of defectiveness. <S> Running a buzzer til <S> it's burnt out <S> won't damage wires unless the buzzer melts down and shorts out. <S> You may have dodged a bullet as far as your house not burning down. <S> I would go to a low voltage DC doorbell, because low voltage DC is treated much more lightly by the electrical codes. <S> Either get a (very, very small) solar panel, battery and charge controller, or kitbash a consumer product that already combines those, such as one of those solar path lights. <S> Have that power a low-voltage doorbell via the button obviously. <S> Ordinary use won't flatten the battery, but extraordinary use would. <S> * CE is not a testing lab. <A> Just because I can :-) <S> , <S> here's my solution, based directly off the method used in electromechanical pinball games for a time-delay circuit. <S> Your doorbell is probably 12 or 24 Volt AC-powered, so go to <S> this hobbyshop or equivalent and get a blinker bulb. <S> This bulb turns itself off when the filament heats it up - typically 2-5 seconds -- <S> so just wire it in series with your buzzer coil. <S> Note: pins use 6.3V <S> so if that's better suited to your needs, try MarcoSpecialties BTW, do NOT get blinker LED bulbs, as those, so far as I know, do not break the circuit. <A> There are a variety of ways to make a "one shot" to protect a solenoid. <S> Or, you can take this incident as a chance to rethink the entire doorbell setup. <S> The typical solution uses energy 24/7, for a use case of just a few seconds per day (assuming no local kids or vandals are mashing the button down for hours). <S> For an energy efficient design see: <S> http://www.olino.org/us/articles/2009/02/03/an-energy-saving-doorbell <S> "An energy saving doorbell" by Dick Kleijer (Olino Feb 2006).
|
Or get a low-voltage "wall-wart" transformer.
|
Garage Conversion and HVAC What is the best way to bring heating and cooling to an attached garage? Our HVAC is being replaced, and our large family needs the garage for living space. Wed be going from 1500 sq feet, to 1900 about... Its HOT here in summer, and COLD in winter. Portable, wall, and window AC and heating units don't cut it. The walls have drywall, but no insulation. I have a roll up door with no insulation, and a slopped roof with no insulation. We have contractors coming out to talk to us about replacing the HVAC and I want to ask what they can do to the garage. If my children have to use it for bedrooms as they get older, I want the AC/Heat to work just as well as the house. Any suggestions? <Q> Converting a garage to a living space means applying all the features that you'd normally expect in a living space: <S> Remove the rollup door and frame in the opening (or frame a new wall with an offset to create an externally-accessible storage space, as Ed Beal suggests). <S> Install an insulated service door or window if desired. <S> Insulate the walls and ceiling and apply vapor barrier. <S> Run supply and return ductwork from the new HVAC system. <S> I think that you knew this was the answer but were looking for shortcuts. <S> You've eliminated the shortcuts in your question by saying that window units don't do the job. <S> I'm not surprised, and I'd be wary of the energy bills even if that was a workable solution. <A> Two long for a comment: <S> In the last few years I have been working more with split heat pump systems. <S> These are easy compared to running new ducts and each zone can be adjusted. <S> If a room is not in use the thermostat in that area can be set to a more energy efficient temperature. <S> 2 copper tubes run to each unit from the compressor and on most of the residential 120v for the blower and valve are needed. <S> Also a drain tube for the condensation . <S> If upgrading your system some states have tax credits for these systems and the utility company in my area is also providing cash to the customer with the appropriate paperwork from the utility. <S> A small split system for 2 bedrooms in the garage may be the least expensive route. <S> It all comes down to the type of system you currently have and the location and size of the existing ductwork. <S> Your HVAC contractor should give you at least several options. <A> Most of the time the garage sits below the house flooring level (at least in areas I do work). <S> So we would try to level the garage floor to the house level as best as we can. <S> The extra work doing this pays off two-fold because not only does the garage seem to be more integrated with the house but you can also run electric there and sometimes plumbing. <S> The easier method is get a main branch up to your attic and then disperse from there. <S> This is easier <S> but I don't like suggesting putting duct work in an attic in a climate with severe temp swings. <S> You will pay a lot of extra money in the long run and be asking why the air in this section of the house isn't cooling or heating as well as it could. <S> There is a third option and that is going right under the concrete slab in the garage <S> but this should never been done for a variety of reasons. <S> Mike Holmes would run the ducts under a subfloor. <S> If that wasn't an option he would run it in bulkhead on the first floor. <S> If you had a layout of your house, duct runs, and where everything is in comparison to basement walls <S> (if there are any)/HVAC/framing I could give you a more exact answer.
|
There are two common methods: Run HVAC main branch under floor. Consider framing a floating, insulated floor over the slab Depending on the type of system you choose there can be many options.
|
Why does my tester not indicate voltage when a light switch is on? I am not understanding this behavior, and I'm hoping that someone with a lot more experience with wiring than I have will know immediately what's going on. I have two 1940s-era fabric-clad wires attached to a simple two-pole on/off toggle switch in the wall. There's no ground wire. The switch controls a light on the wall. I know which breaker in the basement controls it. I can flip the breaker off and then test the wires for power with a voltage tester, and see that it's dead. So, with the power enabled: When the light switch is in the OFF position, if I touch the tester prongs to the wires, the tester lights up. When the switch is in the ON position, if I touch the tester prongs to the wires, the tester does not light up. That is counterintuitive to me, so I flipped the breaker off, reversed the wires on the switch, and turned power back on. But the behavior remains the same. Why does turning the switch ON cut the circuit? <Q> If you consider this simplified diagram, showing a light & switch, with the switch in the off position on the left, and in the on position on the right: <S> When the switch is OFF , its contacts are open - preventing current from flowing through the circuit to the light bulb. <S> When the switch is ON , its contacts are closed - allowing current to flow through the light bulb. <S> Your "voltage tester" is measuring voltage , not current . <S> a closed switch is a short-circuit and even though there may well be current flowing through it, there is no voltage across it. <S> If you were to put your "voltage tester" across the light bulb instead, you would find exactly the opposite case. <S> With the switch OFF/open there will be 0V across the light bulb and when the switch is ON/closed you will measure a voltage across the light bulb. <A> V = I . <S> R <S> This is Ohm's law <S> where V is the voltage across the switch <S> I is the current flowing through the switch R <S> is the resistance of the switch (~0 when on, ~infinite when off) <S> Explanation 1 <S> When the switch is off, the resistance of the air gap is very high, so the voltage dropped across that air gap is nearly full supply voltage <S> When the switch is on, the resistance of the switch is nearly zero, so the voltage is almost zero. <S> Explanation 2 <S> Your voltage tester probably has a high resistance - typical multimeters have a resistance of 10000000 ohms, an incandescent lightbulb in a room-light has a resistance of maybe 10 ohms <S> when cold, maybe 100 when hot. <S> This means the bulb in your tester is designed to work with very small currents (e.g 10 mA) when compared with the currents a normal 120V 60W incandescent bulb needs to light up fully (e.g. 500 mA). <S> With the switch open, electric current flows through your tester, then through the room-light and back to the supply through the neutral wires. <S> The current is enough to light the small bulb in your tester but not enough to light the bulb in the room light. <S> With the switch closed, all the current flows through the switch because it has a very low resistance and almost none flows through the high-resistance tester - not enough to light the tester's bulb. <S> The "on" switch bypasses the tester. <S> Explanation 3 Try the old water/pipe analogy. <S> voltage is like pressure (e.g. PSI), current is like flow-rate (e.g. gallons/second) <S> a switch is like a valve. <S> If a valve is off, the full water supply pressure is exerted across the valve. <S> If the valve is fully open there is very little difference in pressure across the valve. <S> Pressure drops across a partly closed valve because it constricts the flow. <A> Perfectly reasonable, actually. <S> All you are measuring is the voltage between the switch terminals. <S> The voltage between them must be zero since they are connected. <S> One of the terminals is always hot. <S> You are not measuring the voltage compared to earth or neutral, since neither one is present in the box. <S> So with the switch off, you are looking at hot on one side, and the bulb on the other, which is connected to neutral and not connected to anything else. <S> 120V <S> wants to go through the switch, but can't, which is why there's a 120V difference. <S> It's like if a water valve is shut, there is 0 presssure outside and full pressure inside the pipe. <A> The answers here make sense if u r using a volt meter with two pins across the switch. <S> But i think he's asking when testing with a pen tester. <S> Two lines feeding into two switches. <S> Both loads connected to each switch works <S> so I know the circuit is fine. <S> Even both pilot lights connected to the switches light up. <S> But when I pin the switches with a pen tester, it lights up on both ends of one switch but doesn't on either end of another switch.
|
When the switch is on the ON/closed position, your "voltage tester" measures 0V across the switch because that is exactly the case - When the switch is on, it directly connects both sides of the switch to each other. I have the same problem. Therefore the other terminal must also be hot if the switch is on.
|
Is it common to layout sprinkler heads differently between front and back yards? Context: I'm looking into hiring a company to install a sprinkler system. In both the front yard and back yard, we have some shrubs and small plants bordering the edge of the lawn, with sod in the middle. Question: In the front yard, the company plans to install heads along the outside edge for the plants and along the edge between the shrubs and grass. In the back yard, however, they're only planning to install heads along the edge between shrubs and grass. Is it common to layout heads differently between front and back yard? <Q> Yes, it is. <S> Water needs of your yard and landscaping will depend on several factors: type of grass / plant / tree different types of plant in the same area amount of sun / shade the area gets <S> Based on number 3 alone, back yards tend to get differing amounts of sun / shade than the front yards due to the house itself, and so that may lead to a different layout. <S> It could be that only the part of the yard nearest the house needs to be laid out differently, or maybe just one side of the yard. <S> Just as important as where the sprinkler heads are laid out, though, is how they are connected. <S> This is done with "zones" - groups of sprinkler heads all connected to the same valve, so they all run at the same time and for the same amount of time. <S> Some areas of your landscaping require more water than others, and so it's important for those areas to be in a different zone. <S> This allows you to water those zones for longer, giving the areas which need more water more water while not drowning those areas that don't. <S> On top of all of that, the maximum number of sprinkler heads is determined by the incoming water pressure, as well as the flow rate of all the heads. <S> You can't have too many in one zone or they won't put out the correct amount of water. <S> Shaded areas should probably be in a different zone than sunny areas, so the sunny areas can get watered for longer. <S> Additionally, your plants which require lots of water should be in different zones than those which require little water. <S> And none of the zones should have too many heads. <S> All that could lead to a lot of zones <S> (they make controllers with 8, 12, or 16 zones, and some installations require multiple controllers!), which could also mean a lot of trenching and PVC installed. <S> You and your landscaping contractor will probably need to balance the "ideal sprinkler layout" with the cost and effort involved in getting it. <A> There are limits to how much coverage each type of sprinkler can handle with the available water pressure. <S> Look at the type, most front yards smaller hidden sprinklers are used and in larger back yard bigger pop up rainbirds are "normal" in the area I live but across town yards are done much differently <S> So I would say there is not much "normal" unless looking at lot size. <A> Also something to consider with sprinkler lay out, lawn or plants that are found in the shade most the day don't require as much water as plants located in the direct sun. <S> A good lawn/yard company will take these things into consideration when planning and installing a system.
|
Most of the homes I have looked at back yards are larger but each yard is laid out based on the type of sprinkler distance and trees, bushes.
|
What to pay attention when putting flooring in the attic I have a cold attic meaning the insulation is on the bottom. I would like to put flooring here so that I can use this area as storage without abusing it. What do I need to pay attention for this job? There is already some kind of (a bit worn out) protection wrapping the insulation. Do I need to put anything else? I prefer screws over nails just because it is faster. Is it the right choice or can screws snap off over time if the house is moving slightly? Do I need to leave any space between the timber pieces in case they expand? Right now it is winter in Sweden and this is how my attic looks! <Q> Do I need to cover the insulation? <S> If there's a vapor barrier installed it'll be on the warm side. <S> You can simply install flooring with nothing else over the insulation. <S> I'd probably install a vertical board near the edges of the space to prevent items from falling off the floor and to prevent contact with the insulation. <S> Are screws appropriate? <S> Sure. <S> Whatever is convenient. <S> As this isn't a living space, squeaks from foot traffic aren't a real concern. <S> Do I need to leave any space between the timber pieces in case they expand? <S> I assume you're referring to the floor joists. <S> No. <S> What you may need to allow is a gap between your flooring boards, depending on what you use. <S> Extreme heat in the summer could cause buckling. <S> Follow manufacturer recommendations. <A> First thing, I'll check the ceiling joists. <S> I'm not sure about laws and practices in Sweden, though. <S> Now, to actually answer your question: screws are perfectly fine. <S> I'd just use a quarter or a similar coin to space timbers to allow for seasonal expansion/contraction. <S> Unless you already have the timbers, I'd rather use strips of plywood or OSB, they are cheaper and do the job just as well. <S> Just make sure they are small enough to be brought up into your attic. <A> If you're not sure on the spacing between joists, what I would do is run some 2x4s perpendicular to the joists and then use something like 3 inch (about 8cm) screws to attach them to the joists. <S> For the cost and hassle, you get a few benefits <S> The wires can sit between the 2x4s. <S> Avoids having to notch boards and still have visible wires <S> It's better structurally. <S> The 2x4s pick up the load and distribute it better across the joists. <S> Sometimes you can find pre-cut boards (in the US they sell 2 <S> ft x 4ft pre-cut OSB that's 5/8" thick) <S> and if you're making your own gaps you can plan to put the 2x4s to fit perfectly under the decking
|
In US/Canada it's not uncommon to use joists sized and spaced to only support the ceiling drywall below, e.g. they are not sized to support any kind of storage or any other regular activity in the attic. This means you can get some heaver things on the deck than a mere board would support. Easier to cut your boards (or potentially remove the need for cutting at all) to fit on the 2x4s. You don't have to fiddle with wiring that's running across the joists.
|
Caulking a baseboard - which bit do you paint? If I am using decorator's caulk to fill the gap at the top of the baseboard, I am left with a bead of caulk. I know I need to paint the caulk, once cured, to stop it attracting dust. So how do I paint the bead - do I paint it with the same paint as the baseboard, or with the same paint as the wall? Or half and half?! What is the accepted way? What looks the best? Thank you <Q> I tend to use Satinwood, and the thicker paint helps to mask the bead itself better. <S> It does require a steady hand as you really don't want to be accidentally painting that on to your wall (I hate masking tape). <S> As previous commenters have noted, the bead should not be all that thick. <S> When I install baseboard (or skirting board, as we call it in the UK), I try to use an adhesive like No More Nails as it saves filling or covering the nail holes. <S> If you are using nails then I would definitely suggest using a couple more to ensure you keep that gap as small as possible <A> Match the baseboard, since it's an extension of the baseboard and not the wall. <S> Sure an extremely keen eye will notice the baseboard's thicker in spots, but almost any eye will notice the wall's bulging out to the baseboard...not good. <A> That is entirely up to you. <S> Everybody has a different perspective of look. <S> I would paint it the same as the baseboard. <S> However, if the gap was too wide, I would have found a way to force the baseboard into the wall better. <S> Another nail, a wall anchor....something to reduce the gap.
|
Personally I prefer to paint it the colour of the baseboard.
|
Does the protected device connect to top, or bottom of the MCB? Just what the title states. The house, located in India, uses old-fangled kitkat fuses . The typical domestic supply here in this part of the world is 250V AC at 50cps. I am in the middle of replacing the fuses with Miniature Circuit Breakers. MCB appear to receive the line wire from the top connector, the bottom connector being the protected device/s. Is this universal/standard? Does the protected device connect to the top, or bottom of the MCB? <Q> Either way around If the circuit breaker is not marked otherwise, it should be suitable for installation in either configuration -- AFAICT without access to the IEC standards, IEC breakers (MCBs) <S> are just like their UL compatriots in this regard. <A> KITKAT fuses are a very untypical protective device for homes in the USA. <S> By the current regulatory standards renewable over-current devices are not permitted. <S> MCB usually describes the Main Circuit Breaker in a residential electrical distribution panel. <S> You should be using a electrical panel approved for residential use listed for the purpose. <S> Please keep in mind this type of work is not typically done by a novice. <S> In the event the home owner completes the work even with an inspection the owner is responsible / liable if the system does not function properly. <S> This meaning your insurance company is not obligated to cover losses due to fire caused by poor or improper workmanship. <S> If injuries or worse occur there are legal implications and a lawyer per hour will make you wish you hired a qualified electrician. <S> RegardsJohn J DeeryMaster Electrician <A> MCB breaker appear to received the line wire from the top connector, the bottom connector being the protected device/ due to IP 19 & IP 20.
|
The term Miniature Circuit Breaker is normally applied to a din-rail mounted devise used in conjunction with machine wiring or product applications. The installation will require an electrical inspection completed by a certified inspector in your state.
|
Use small UPS to power steam boiler I have a steam boiler (natural gas fired) and I'm wondering if I can safely use a small UPS to backfeed power to the boiler, in case of a power outage. I'm not sure how much total run time I'd get - we're talking a 1500VA UPS with conditioned (sine wave) power output. However, the boiler only has an automated damper, the control circuitry, and the pilot ignition system - no fans, no pumps, no power vents - so the draw should be very low and not even constant. I'd like to find out/test, in any case, how much run time I'd get with this setup (for emergency purposes). The boiler is fed from a non-dedicated 15A breaker in the main panel. The feed goes into a J-box containing a dual socket receptacle and a switch. I have confirmed the switch cuts power to the boiler, when thrown. Therefore, the switch acts as a kill switch to the boiler. Therefore, I concluded that if I were to throw the kill switch, throw the breaker for good measure, and then back-feed the UPS into the receptacle, the risk of back-feeding into the grid would be nearly zero. And it's temporary, no modification of existing wiring is required. I know that folks can't really say this is safe, I know it's against code. Are there any considerations that I haven't listed here? <Q> When temporarily testing things... <S> Just take box covers off and wire-nut stuff. <S> My cheater is male on one end, bare wires on the other. <S> I just go into the box, wire-nut up the load under test, plug the cheater into the Kill-a-Watt or whatever, and do my testing. <S> Easy peasy. <S> I test <S> hardwired loads that way <S> all the time, it's no big. <S> Don't bottom your UPS <S> Use the Kill-a-Watt. <S> Tempting <S> though it may be, don't run a UPS down to dead, except to test the battery. <S> It has a lead-acid battery, every time you run them dead takes a big chunk out of their life. <S> Lithiums don't have that problem. <S> I agree it's likely the furnace doesn't take much power. <S> You might also have the conversation with your furnace manufacturer as to whether it can be run on 12V or 24V battery power directly. <S> It's quite possible that most or all of it runs on 24VAC and doesn't care AC vs DC. <A> You'll need a proper transfer device <S> You'll need some way of properly transferring power between AC and the inverted battery output to do this. <S> "Remembering to turn off a breaker" doesn't count; while you can get mechanical interlock kits that make it so only one of the two interlocked breakers can ever be on, they aren't suitable for your application. <S> Furthermore, backfeeding into an outlet is dangerous because of the exposed live pins on the male connector -- there's a reason receptacle outlets are universally female and device plugs are universally male, with the pin gender reversed for inlets on equipment or wiring and their mating plugs. <S> A better solution would be to make the steam boiler a cord-and-plug connected piece of equipment. <S> That way, you can unplug it from the mains and plug it into the UPS. <S> I'd simply use the beefiest, heaviest-duty piece of cordage (such as 16/3 SOOW or SJOOW) <S> I could get my hands on along with a nice, screw-assembly type plug on it and a strain relief gland or fitting at where it exits the boiler. <S> At that point, you could even go as far as just having the thing on a UPS full-time if you wished. <A> You shouldn't have any issue. <S> So if needed youcan just unplug your boiler from the mains and run it from UPS. <S> A third, to me better, option is to hardwire the UPS before the boiler so in case of outage it automatically kiks in keeping boiler running, setup&forget. <A> If the output of this 1500VA UPS is 120volts <S> A/C hook it up and see if it runs your boiler and for how long. <S> Just make sure you hook it up as the other guys suggest to keep yourself safe. <S> This would give you an indication of the feasibility of your idea. <S> If you live in an area with numerous power outages and want an alternative that allows you to fire your boiler with no outside power, a Powerpile or pilot generator system could be installed. <S> The pilot would power the system except for the flue damper, which you have to open manually; (not cheap but possible) <A> From someone who's actually done it, the answer is YES it can be done. <S> My setup was to use a car jump-start battery pack that had an AC receptacle. <S> I wire-nutted an AC cord to the boiler shutoff box, <S> and it ran the boiler for days. <S> If we have another power failure I would approach it differently though: I will wire a step-up convertor (12 to 24VDC) directly to the transformer on the outside of the boiler. <S> The power conversion will be much more efficient. <S> (not having to convert from 12VDC to 120VAC inside the battery, and then the boiler transformer convert to 24VDC!) <S> Then I can use my other battery pack that does not have the valuable AC outlet, or my car battery if I want. <S> That way I can use the AC-outlet battery pack for other things.
|
I think you can 'cord-wire' your boiler replacing existing switch with a fixed outlet and putting a plug on boiler cord.
|
Can I use flux core wire with MIG shield gas (argon/CO2)? I recently purchased a cylinder of MIG shield gas (argon/CO2). Can I use my existing flux core wire and the MIG gas together or do I need to buy solid wire? <Q> Maybe, but best not use the gas. <S> The flux core has deoxidizers in it like aluminum , silicon and manganese ( not really a deoxidizer). <S> They are expected to react with oxygen from the air and be consumed. <S> If the oxygen is kept away by the gas some of those elements will dissolve into the molten metal . <S> This will add alloys that may affect the properties of the deposit . <S> Many years ago Lincoln did something like this and the resulting welds had high silicon and manganese causing them to be too strong. <A> Dual shield wire is a different animal than regular flux core wire. <S> You can use gas with regular flux core, but it is a total waste of gas. <S> The flux in dual shield wire doesn't shield the weld, it causes better deposition rates and weld characteristics in the weld. <S> Gas is needed with dual shield to shield the weld, but not with flux cored. <S> So you can use reg flux core with gas, but you cannot use dual shield without gas. <S> Dual shield is generally used for heavy fabrication, allowing a mig style process to really cram the welds in. <S> It provides better penetration, and and less spatter, than flux core alone. <S> Dual shield is also good for heavy fab out of position welds, because the flux that is in dual shield helps the weld pool freeze a bit better. <A> You can use both but as tester101 mentioned it is a waste is $. <S> I have put my emergency roll of flux core on by mistake <S> it welded fine with the gas on. <S> Now that you have gas get some solid wire. <S> Solid wire with gas is so much cleaner and no flux slag to chip.
|
Using gas with regular flux core wire offers no benefit.
|
Should I extend a drain vent that terminates in my attic? Recently I removed an old water heater stovepipe coming through my roof, because we moved our water heater. Right next to it was my plumbing vent pipe that I thought was associated with venting for the water heater, so I cut it off below the roof and patched my roof. So now my plumbing vent pipe terminates in my attic, in a little corner to be exact. How bad is this? I did it a week and a half ago and I never noticed any bad smells. <Q> Bad. <S> Not only are you introducing stink and moisture to your attic, but toxic and potentially explosive gases as well. <S> Decomposing waste materials in public and private sewer and septic systems create sewer gases. <S> Methane is the largest single constituent of sewer gas, which includes an assortment of toxic and non-toxic gases, such as hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, ammonia, nitrogen oxides, and sulfur dioxide. <S> Improperly disposed gasoline and mineral spirits may also contribute to sewer gases. <S> https://www.nachi.org/sewer-gases-home.htm?loadbetadesign=0 <S> Fix it now. <A> You should fix this (see isherwood's answer ), but you don't necessarily need to extend it back out of the roof again, assuming that you have at least one vent to the outside somewhere else in the system. <S> This lets air in (necessary for good drainage) without letting sewer gases out. <A> It's probably a vent not a drain. <S> Yes, it allows moisture and odors into you attic <S> and it needs to be extended at least 12" above the adjacent roof. <S> If you cap it, the fixture it comes from will not drain properly. <S> If it's a drain, then add a vent through the roof too.
|
You could instead cap it with an internal drainage vent (also known as an air admittance valve).
|
Is it necessary to protect a (half full) propane tank from freezing temperatures? The title line says it all. I know um.. empirically that it's ok, but I'd like to hear a confirmation of safety and/or a more extensive empirical experiment. The tank in question is a BBQ tank measuring about 1 ft in diameter and about 1 1/2 ft in height. Edit Let me just add car gasoline tanks as a reference for comparison. The lore from folks who own a car they do not drive in winter is to fill the tank in Fall, then to park the car in the garage with the tank full. (The typical garage is not heated, but it absorbs heat from the adjacent structure, and so as an extreme the temperature can get close to freezing—32F/0C.) If the tank is left half-full, water condenses (and so Harper's description makes sense), but it condenses inside the tank. Needless to say, come Spring the engine is not too happy to be fed gasoline contaminated with water. Will water condense in a similar way inside a propane tank left outside in freezing temperatures (of as low as 15F/-10C, say)? <Q> Actually, no. <S> Yes, you heard right. <S> Or any other heat source would do. <S> Propane is stored as a liquid, but used as a vapor. <S> As you use it, it must convert from liquid state to vapor state (i.e. Boil). <S> That requires it absorb energy, its latent heat of vaporization , from its surroundings (i.e. the liquid propane in the tank). <S> This will make the liquid even colder than ambient air. <S> You may have seen propane tanks condense water or "ice up" when in heavy use. <S> That's because they are colder than ambient. <S> This is that effect. <S> If the liquid propane can't absorb its latent heat of vaporization, it won't boil. <S> So when the liquid propane falls below its natural boiling point, then you will have no vapor pressure at all, and your propane accessory won't work. <S> Much like a boiler gives no useful steam if its temperature is below 212F (100C). <S> You rely on heat transfer from outside into the tank to keep the propane "warm enough" to boil on its own. <S> Trouble is, heat transfer works best when there's a big temperature differential. <S> When the outside is already cold, heat transfer is slower. <S> You want the opposite of insulation, you want a heat exchanger to speed it up. <A> I'm going to be a little bit contrary and say, that depends. <S> If the temperature where you live gets below -44°F, then, yeah, you will need to keep it a few degrees above that. <S> According to articles here and here <S> the boiling point of propane is -44°F (-42.4°C), so in order for your propane to exist as a vapor, the temperature of the propane need to be kept above -44°F. <S> And I'm guessing that to generate at least some usable pressure, it would need to be 10 - 20 or so degrees above that, and that doesn't take into consideration that fact that the temperature of the propane will drop as it turns from liquid to vapor (as Harper points out). <S> Simply moving the tank indoors temporarily away from any ignition sources would probably suffice. <A> No. <S> Half-full tanks are used by millions of ice anglers, for example, in absurdly cold temperatures. <S> They do tend to lose pressure, though, especially if being depressurized further by use. <S> The fuel just doesn't vaporize nearly as readily when below zero F. <A> I think I see the answer. <S> The tank is 100% propane. <S> Whatever gas there is inside, it is also propane. <S> As with all fluids, there will remain at all time <S> a balance between the pressure inside and the temperature—an increase in temperature will increase pressure (the principle behind pressure cookers, for instance) and, as Harper points out, a decrease in pressure (due to release of the fluid to cook with it) will decrease the temperature of the fluid. <S> Since the boiling point of propane is −42.25 to −42.04 °C; −44.05 to −43.67 °F , and for all of us lucky enough for the temperature never to get anywhere near that low, the pressure inside will exceed atmospheric pressure. <S> Even if the temperature drops below propane's boiling point, the only thing that will happen is that the pressure will be below atmospheric pressure. <S> Assuming that the tank wall is so thick to withstand intense pressure when the tank is full, there will be no difficulty for the same wall to withstand a minor pressure from the outside at extreme cold. <S> The tank wall will not cave in. <S> To sum up, there is no risk in leaving a propane tank outside in any kind of cold—provided it's properly filled with just propane. <S> If one wants to worry, one can keep in mind that leaving the tank outside in the summer at a temperature of 43 °C; 110 °F, for example, will produce an internal pressure of 197 psi , and so it is a good precaution to shield the tank from direct sunlight in the summer.
|
There is no risk that a propane tank will have water condensation inside the tank because there is no water vapor in the tank. You need to keep it exposed to weather to keep it warm .
|
How do I easily tell if vent below microwave is vented to the exterior? We had a house built recently and there's a vent on the wall where the microwave is on the exterior of the house, but it doesn't seem like anything is coming out of this vent when we turn it on while cooking food on our stove top (which is directly below the microwave). We leave the fan on for twenty minutes and it makes a loud noise and doesn't really do anything. And in the winter, I don't feel any cold air coming from the bottom of the microwave. While the house was still being built, we noticed that there was no hole cut out in the wall for the vent (they said they would do that when the microwave is installed). Is there an easy way to know if that was done or could there be another issue at play here? <Q> The flap is pushed out by the increased air pressure created by the vent fan. <S> While there are sometimes internal backdraft flaps, there is almost always an external one as well. <S> Look at the exterior hood and have someone turn on the vent fan. <S> You should see the flap moving. <S> If it does not, you likely have a problem. <S> You can remove the external hood by removing mounting screws and cutting the caulk seal around the edges. <S> Many vent hoods can be set up for interior or exterior venting. <S> This usually involves changing the orientation of the fan itself during setup. <S> The installer may have left the fan pushing the exhaust into the kitchen. <S> If so, you should be able to feel a draft at the top of the unit when the fan is on. <A> It's fairly rare for microwave range hoods to be vented outside in newer homes unless specifically requested by the initial owner (at least in my part of the world, where any exhaust vent wastes expensive heated interior air). <S> They're set up from the factory to be recirculatory, running air through charcoal filters and/or wire mesh grease traps, then out the front louvre. <S> By reversing the fan unit housing they can be configured to vent to the exterior. <S> Your microwave is probably supported by two screws through the floor of the cabinet above. <S> These are very long and can be loosened up to an inch or more without the microwave coming unattached. <S> They typically fit a #3 Phillips or large flat-blade driver. <S> (Using a #2 driver can result in screw damage.) <S> With an assistant, loosen one of the screws an inch. <S> Verify that it hasn't come completely out of the threaded socket it runs into. <S> Lower the front of the microwave and have a look over the top, under the cabinet. <S> The unit will be supported at the lower rear by a bracket flange. <S> Your microwave's vent either exhausts upward or rearward, but from right at the top rear of the unit. <S> You'll be able to see whether there's a duct opening at that location. <S> If necessary, completely remove the screws to lower the unit further. <S> Snug <S> the screws up when you're finished. <S> They don't need to be overly tight. <A> If there is a cooktop below the micro, we require the micro vent to be vented to exterior. <S> They come with standard "charcoal recirculating vent", but there is a plate that can be removed and a duct connected... <S> Only sure way to confirm if it's vented is to see it, which means dropping it down and inspecting it.
|
Properly installed range hood vent, including those combined with microwaves, almost always use an external vent hood that has a flap to prevent backdrafts. Now, while your assistant supports the front of the microwave, loosen the second screw. You can then look into the hole to see where (if) it is connected.
|
How can I determine if it's safe to remove this beam in my garage? I want to remove a roughly 18' beam that goes across my garage. Oddly, it's the only one at this level. The ceiling beams are all about 28 inches higher. When I touch this beam it wobbles quite a bit, though it's firmly attached at the ends, leading me to believe there isn't much if any load on it. It seems like the beams above it are doing the same job. What the heck is it doing there, and how can I figure out if it's safe to remove? I'm hoping it's just there as a byproduct of the building process or something. One potentially interesting note: I measured where the beam would come into my house (to the right of the garage as pictured) and it looks like it would come i directly above my front door. Interesting? Edit: the "suspicious rope" was installed by myself just prior to taking these pictures; I was about to cut the beam and didn't want it to fall. Then I thought I'd better take a moment to reconsider, and here we are :) There was previously a garage door opener which I removed; it ran just under this beam and wasn't attached to it. There WAS an electrical ground stapled to it (can be seen in the pictures) which I moved up to the beam above. I can't imagine someone would install a 2x6 just to run a ground when the beam above serves just as well. <Q> If so, I would be asking why. <S> A couple of clues I would look for are: Is the height of the placement of the timber, on each end, possibly where the top plates of the framed wall are, behind the drywall? <S> ( As opposed to the studs inside the wall running from the floor plate all the way up to the roof rafters.) <S> If so, this connection between lower studs and upper studs could be a weak area for lateral wind loads to cause some unwanted flexing of one of the walls. <S> You mentioned your front door was on the other side. <S> Is it possible that the front door wall, beyond, is located in a sturdier wall that has sufficient bracing and the timber in your garage is using the strength of that wall to tie the opposite garage wall into something more stable. <S> If that opposite garage wall is an exterior wall subject to wind <S> I would think that might be the case. <S> There are some DIY things you can do to experiment with it a little bit. <S> Try flexing the timber back and forth to see if one wall stays rigid but the other moves just a tiny bit. <S> If so, that would indicate that the wall that moved needs that timber. <S> A good framing carpenter ( think This Old House) could probably access your situation adequately. <S> Maybe for free if it is easily apparent to them what is going on <S> and they can give you an estimate for any modifications that would enable you to remove the timber. <S> Hope <S> this helps. <S> Good luck! <A> I would feel very confident that this beam could be taken out. <S> Although I would certainly cut it from the wall that is closest to your front door. <S> Just in case it continues as a header. <S> That is well apparent because this beam isn't very thick nor tall so it would have sever warping over this span if it had a load on it - even a light load. <S> In my area seeing one or two of these beams are quite common for some reason. <S> Since this is in the path of the door I would gather it was for that at one point. <S> If you want to be absolutely safe - Cut out a little bit of drywall on each side, make sure beam isn't attached to anything important, knock it out, save it for a few months, then do whatever you want with it if there are no issues. <S> However what I would do with it... <S> I would add some 2x6s perpendicular to it going to front of my garage, use some deck braces. <S> Then put a layer of 1/2" plywood on top of it, paint it all white, and then you have some really nice custom storage in your garage. <S> Nothing I would put serious weight on but still for $75 <S> you are getting a huge upgrade in storage. <S> Also this takes marginally more time then knocking out the beam (not including painting). <A> A picture would help of the beam and where it attaches to each wall. <S> To be safe, removing any wall shouldn't be done without talking to a structural engineer that can come out, inspect it and make sure it's not load-bearing. <S> It will cost less than repairing your garage (and cars) after the ceiling falls on them. <A> This could be a rafter tie which is loaded in tension only dynamically, under wind or snow loads. <S> It's an interesting conversation piece, why mess with it? <A> It's called a "tie". <S> Make sure the wall was not constructed with a horizontal split in the wall, (I.e.: double top plate, etc.) <S> This would put a "hinge" in the wall and need both ties to remain.
|
It's probably in tension, (I.e.: keeping the roof from pushing the walls apart. From studying your picture it appears to me that the timber is intended to tie one wall to the other. It is for sure not carrying any load across the garage. The explanation I have been given is that they are either to hold garage doors/tracks or there were extra joists often ordered and they would install them for future shelving.
|
Bracing a metal-tubing clothing rack Edit: See my answer below for the solution I eventually used. I bought a poor-quality clothing rack made out of metal tubing. Due to a design or manufacturing flaw, it sways badly from side to side. I want to fix it by adding a simple diagonal brace between the vertical bars and the horizontal base bars. Here's a simple illustration (the real brace should probably be longer and attach further out): I'm not much of a DIY'er and I have a basic set of tools but no metalworking tools. My best idea was to try to find some metal tubing, flatten the ends, bend them with a vice/pliers to 45 degree angles, drill holes through the flattened end of the brace and into the clothing rack bars, and fasten the brace into the bar with a screw. I browsed a hardware store and couldn't find anything like the above, and all the metal tubing / pipe I could find (in plumbing, etc.) is much too thick to be easily shaped/drilled like that. Any suggestions on what I might look for, or other simple and creative ways to make a brace? <Q> Why not use steel strap ? <S> You can round and smooth the ends, and bend them up to bolt through the upright and horizontal supports. <S> These straps do not have the compression (push) strength of tubing, but if used on all four bottom corners, their tension (pull) strength should prevent the racking that you are trying to cure. <S> The illustrated piece is 12" but you should be able to find longer pieces. <S> They could be painted black or silver if the bare metal is too rustic. <S> Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> Your original idea has strength, both literally and figuratively. <S> As you've noted, you have trouble finding a local source, which makes your choice a bit more challenging. <S> You can use ordinary EMT - Electrical Metallic Tubing, commonly used for conduit runs enclosing house wiring. <S> Even 3/4" diameter will have sufficient strength for your purpose, and you can go larger for greater confidence. <S> Expect the edges of the flattened sections to crack when you squeeze them in a vise. <S> The bends will be 135 degrees, not particularly excessive in this application. <S> You can "step-flatten" the tubing by starting the compression some distance back from the end, turn the vise a few cranks, then pull it out and flatten the next segment a bit nearer the end, until you get the last inch to inch and a half to flatten completely. <S> Alternatively, you can use any tubing/pipe you can find and create gussets at the intersection. <S> A gusset is usually a flat triangle of material, in your case probably sheet steel, placed along the side of the two pieces to be reinforced and riveted in place. <S> If you have one inch tubing, a four to six inch gusset will be quite strong. <S> Space the rivets about an inch apart, no closer. <S> Due to the offset between the horizontal and vertical components, you'd want to attach one gusset on the inside of the top portion of the additional tube and to the outside of the bottom portion. <S> If you use the flattened ends method, keeping the flat parts to one side of the tube with a similar orientation should provide a bit more stability. <S> Another thought appeared in my alleged mind regarding material after searching for some representative images. <S> One can use, for example, a 1"x2" piece of hardwood, such as poplar to accomplish your objective. <S> You would not need a gusset in that case, but here's a picture anyway: <S> The web site from which the above photo originated provides additional guidelines for creating gussets, most of which would apply only to wood usage: <S> Railway Bob's Building Tips <A> Thanks for all the suggestions. <S> I ended up with a very simple and seemingly effective solution: <S> The horizontal and vertical frames are joined by a collar that snaps together with a spring button (just left of the part I circled). <S> I think that button was supposed to prevent the collar from rotating, but as you can see the cutout is much too big for that. <S> So I just drilled new 3/16" holes (circled) through the collars at each corner, and dropped in a pin ($0.23/ <S> ea. <S> at the hardware store). <S> The pin takes the shearing force and prevents the swaying nicely. <S> They can also easily be removed to take the rack apart if it needs to be transported. <S> Thanks again!
|
If a piece of wood alone does not provide the desired strength, you could yet add a set of gussets cut from 1/4" plywood and have a seriously strong brace.
|
Hang item from top chord of 2x6 roof trusses? The roof truss in question is part of a standalone shed structure in the back yard. Each truss is 2x6, and is composed of 3 planks - each side of the triangle, no center braces or anything. The width is about 10-12 feet. Is it possible to hang two large eye bolts from two separate trusses about 10 feet apart and permanently suspend something between 250-300 lbs between the two of the bolts? I can re-enforce or cross brace any of the beams as necessary, though I'm not sure what would be effective. Here's a shot of the interior with a drawing of what I'd like to do (x2). I know the cable will be against the bottom cord, but no direct weight. Most links I've searched recommend against this, but I'm really really hoping this can be feasible. What I'm thinking: Is it feasible? Thanks! <Q> This is dangerous and should be calculated. <S> 1) <S> The top chord of the truss is in compression. <S> By putting a load between web joints, you are putting the top chord in what is called "double bending". <S> What this does is puts an additional amount of compression load on the top half (about) of the 2x6 top chord. <S> This could easily over stress the member (the piece of the top chord spanning from web joint to web joint) and snap the chord. <S> We've repaired these and its expensive. <S> You must live in a high snow load area, because you have 2x6 top and bottom truss chords for such a small span. <S> (Where I live, we'd use 2x4 because we have minimal snow loads.) <S> So, the truss manufacturer has determined that a 2x6 is required due to the snow load. <S> Maybe it's over designed, but I'd ask the truss manufacturer. <S> Give your local lumberyard a sketch of the size (span) of your trusses and tell them you're adding 300 lbs. <S> and where. <S> They can run the calcs and tell you exactly how and what to use. <S> The calcs are free. <S> (There are specific methods to connecting to chords and webs. ). <S> 2) <S> You show an eyelet type screw into the bottom of the top chord. <S> I'd advise against that for two reasons. <S> (A.) <S> I'd ask the manufacturer, but I'd bet they'll recommend a thru-bolt or clip nailed to cross members... <S> probably 3 trusses. <S> You do not want to over drill the size of hole for a thru-bolt. <S> (B.) <S> A screw type fastener into the top chord will damage the integrity of the top chord (cause the 2x6 to split). <S> The chord will dry out over time and split. <S> Then, you'll loose all holding resistance. <S> The code requires roofs to be designed with a 15% factor of safety. <S> Verify this with truss manufacturer. <A> I assume that the span of each top chord is about 6 feet, and that the trusses are well-built, with adequate gusset strength and fasteners. <S> Given that, I see no problem hanging 300 lbs. <S> from two trusses, distributed evenly. <S> It's possible that you'll notice minor sagging if left for several years, but it won't damage the overall structure. <S> To be extra cautious, fasten a 2x6 or 2x8 crosswise in that location and extending an additional two trusses, in order to further distribute the load. <S> Use at least 2 3" gold screws at each truss, or use a 5/16" by 3" lag screw at each truss. <A> No problem at all here. <S> For such a small span, snow load isn't even a factor. <S> The same trusses can be used in high snow areas as in low snow areas. <S> As spans increase the difference in plate sizes increase quickly. <S> Cut it in half per load point <S> and you're only dealing with 150 pounds. <S> It's hard to see in the picture <S> but I don't even think that this is a truss roof. <S> It looks like cut rafters with a ceiling joist. <S> If that's the case, add some nails at the heel or make sure that there's adequate nailing from rafter to ceiling joist to prevent any spread.
|
When we mount roof top equipment or equipment hung in attics, we suspend from rod bolted THROUGH top chord.
|
How often should I wash my hands when cleaning the bathroom? As someone with a little touch of OCD, I find that I feel stressed when cleaning my bathroom because I worry about cross contamination. When I finish cleaning one part of the bathroom floor, and then clean the other part, if I end up needing to touch something I've either already cleaned or a cleaning product, I tend to wash my hands before doing so. For example, while cleaning the toilet, I feel the need to wash my hands before grabbing the spray bottle, as I'm concerned that there may be cross contamination between the spray bottle and the toilet. Overall, I tend to take cleaning the bathroom in the same light as if I were in a Nuclear Bio Chemical attack zone. I know it's not the same. Unlike NBC (Nuclear Biological Chemical), cross contamination isn't (and hasn't) killed me yet, but I wonder, what is the general rule of thumb for hand washing while cleaning the bathroom. Should we hand wash after cleaning each fixture, wait until the end, or is there some other procedure? What research is out there on this topic? I tried googling the title of the question "How often should I wash my hands when cleaning the bathroom?" and nothing came up; hence, I ask here. <Q> I generally wash my hands once at the end. <S> I'm very conscious of keeping clean, but don't have any OC tendencies when it comes to germs. <S> I'm not concerned about cross contamination while cleaning my bathroom. <S> Ideally, the cleaning products are doing their job, and the amount of pathogenic germs around the sink, tub, and most of the floor are minimal. <S> I'll use a sponge or scrub to wash the sink and bathtub first, then floor, and do the outside of the toilet and floor around the toilet last (I use a toilet brush for the inside). <S> Doing it in that order prevents carrying any potential pathogens from the toilet to the sink where someone might set their toothbrush. <S> I usually wear rubber gloves, but either way my hands are mostly just touching the sponge so they wouldn't be likely to cross contaminate anything. <S> I think in general people are a bit overly concerned about fecal contamination. <S> A few weeks ago I caught my 1 year old daughter with cat poop in her mouth (gross!), I casually cleaned her hands with antibacterial wipes, and tried my best to wipe the inside of her mouth out. <S> She is absolutely fine. <S> Just an anecdote, but it at least proves that you're not guaranteed to have problems if you eat poop. <S> Just an anecdote, <S> but hopefully it gives you peace of mind that you're doing a good job cleaning your bathroom and that you don't need to wash your hands multiple times throughout the process. <A> I too am very persnickety about the bathroom. <S> My technique:I use disposable latex gloves and clean tub/shower first, using the shower to wet all surfaces and then sprinkle powder cleanser (Ajax, Comet).Using a scouring pad, not a sponge, I scrub the shower walls, tub, and fixtures, then rinse thoroughly with clean water and wipe down all surfaces with a clean, dry rag. <S> I use windex on the glass doors, inside and out and on faucetry. <S> Same process on the sink, always completing with a dry rag to avoid water spots. <S> Next, the toilet, from top to bottom, using a toilet brush and cleanser inside the bowl, being certain to get under the rim--spatter and fungus will live there otherwise. <S> With the lid and seat up, I use a spray-on bathroom cleaner and paper towels on the other toilet surfaces. <S> Paper towels are disposable and eliminate cross-contamination. <S> I never use the toilet brush outside of the bowl; I always use a fresh paper towel for the top of the seat, another for the bottom. <S> I clean other any other surfaces (walls, towel racks, shelf) with a clean rag in a very light solution of dishsoap (a couple of drops in a quart of hot water), rinsing in clean, hot between surfaces. <S> Finally the floor starting at the tub and working my way out of the room. <S> I use the rag I used for the walls and rinse it out frequently. <S> I never rinse the rag in the soapy water to keep the solution as clean as possible. <S> I usually go through 3 pairs of latex gloves for this procedure. <S> As a medical professional, I frequently deal with sterile conditions and am conscious about keeping germs, viruses, etc., at bay. <A> Gloves transfer fewer contaminants than bare hands and with frequent changes, risk is further reduced. <S> The point is to use good hand hygiene, effective products and disposable towels or clean rags between areas to be cleaned. <S> Work your way out of the room as you clean. <S> I use gloves to protect my hands and spread fewer germs. <S> Indications for hand hygiene are as follows: <S> • <S> • <S> Handwashing with soap and water is preferred when exposure to potential spore-forming pathogens, such as Clostridium difficile, is strongly suspected or proven. <S> • <S> In all other clinical situations, use an alcohol-based handrub as the preferred means for routine hand antisepsis, if hands are not visibly soiled. <S> Wash hands with soap and water if alcohol-based handrub is not available. <S> • <S> Hand hygiene is needed before and after touching the patient; before touching an invasive device used for patient care, whether gloves are used; after contact with body fluids or excretions, mucous membranes, nonintact skin, or wound dressings; if moving from a contaminated body site to another body site on the same patient; after touching inanimate surfaces and objects in the immediate vicinity; and after removing gloves. <S> • <S> Hand hygiene is needed before handling medication or preparing food using an alcohol-based handrub or handwashing with water and either plain or antimicrobial soap. <S> • <S> Soap and alcohol-based handrub should not be used together. <S> Recommendations for Glove Use <S> Some specific recommendations for use of gloves are as follows: <S> • <S> Glove use does not replace the need for hand hygiene. <S> • <S> • <S> Remove gloves after caring for a patient, and do not reuse. <S> • <S> Change or remove gloves if moving from a contaminated body site to either another body site within the same patient or the environment. <S> -WHO Guidelines, Authors: Laurie Barclay, MD, Penny Murata, MD
|
Wash hands with soap and water when visibly dirty, when soiled with blood or other body fluids, or after using the toilet. Gloves are recommended in situations in which contact with blood or other potentially infectious materials is likely.
|
Toxic fumes from spray paint I had a painter round my one bedroom flat where I live with my cat, he say's he will use paint spray as it is quicker, is it safe, the fumes? on google it says not safe to breathe in, but others say its okay? now I am needing some advice as I know nothing about painting, he will be using dulux magnolia on all rooms, any advice would be appreciated thanks. <Q> Spraying paint is a common technique and can be safe if done properly. <S> The paint fumes may or may not be a problem depending on the type of paint. <S> Low VOC (volatile organic compounds) give off very little fumes, are now generally preferred, and are mandated in some locales. <S> They have less solvents and are much less toxic. <S> Note that some painters still prefer older style paints with higher VOCs, claiming better application and durability. <S> Some people are more sensitive than others. <S> But aside from the day of application, the level of fumes from paint is fairly similar regardless of whether it was sprayed or applied by brush and roller. <A> Fumes aren't the problem with spraying Whether you brush or spray, the fumes are exactly the same. <S> These are the volatile parts of the paint that evaporate. <S> This is the part affected by VOC ratings of paint. <S> That is to say, VOC rating helps when you are brushing, but does nothing to protect you from overspray. <S> In fact, VOC rating is about regional smog, not health; low-VOC paints use volatiles which won't add much to smog. <S> That's a big deal in L.A. <S> When brushing or rolling, this stuff stays on the brush. <S> However, when spraying, all of it is atomized into a fine mist, and 30-60% of it misses the intended surface and drifts away into the surrounding air. <S> It is that stuff that you are huffing into your lungs while you are around spray paint without protective gear. <S> Drying is like a ketchup spill, nothing special. <S> But curing is a peculiar alchemy where the resin molecules "join hands" into longer molecules that make the paint tough. <S> That chemical reaction is no friend to the human body, particularly the immune system. <S> So staying away from spray operations is a good idea. <S> The worst are the Imron type urethanes and epoxies, which can make you rather sick in one go. <S> Interestingly, the toxic parts of Imron and epoxies are fully consumed in the curing process , leaving material so safe they can use it on the inside of food cans. <S> And they do. <S> Inside a house you are certainly using latex paint, which is the least toxic in pretty much all respects, but still, the resin is not for lungs. <S> The stuff found in rattle cans of spray paint is alkyd/oil paint, single-part. <S> All single-part paints are less toxic for public safety. <S> They cure in relation to air or moisture, and this takes months, and so the public would be exposed to uncured resin. <S> Yes, this affects paint performance. <A> I'm a carpenter but am often called upon to refinish/paint cabinets (labor intensive but not supply intensive so good $). <S> Many of my clients prefer spraying for the clean look but choose to roll (in their 'finished' properties) because I have to charge double or triple because of the extended prep times--one or two days depending on size--and the fact that ventilation and spray travel must be accounted for. <S> I'm not a scientist <S> but I do know that just because it's not known or accepted as a health hazard doesn't mean it isn't deadly. <A> First I am going to assuming he will be spraying paint, not using traditional spray paint - which is rather toxic indoors <S> but hell we all use it. <S> Second as others said the toxicity is based on the paint not the method, given you aren't in the room while painting it. <S> Third and most importantly I have painted a lot of houses. <S> I cannot imagine how spraying can be faster in an already finished space. <S> When you use a sprayer indoors the paint molecules get everywhere and they travel. <S> Your painter would have to seal off every single area that he was not painting. <S> An example is if he were painting the walls he would have to seal (completely) <S> the ceiling, floors, windows, closets, doors, whatever. <S> If not those areas will have specks of paint on them. <S> My point is I would make sure he is doing it right. <S> If you don't want toxicity there are tons of low/no VOC latex paints he could use. <S> If your apartment is in a finished state (assume it is) <S> he should be using brushes and rollers - period.
|
Once modern paint designed for residential use dries, it gives off little in the way of fumes, although some odors may linger for a few days (or even weeks). You should not be present while the spraying is going on. The problem is atomized resin Resin is the liquid part of the paint which eventually turns solid as it dries and cures. I advise all my clients, especially those whom are human, and whom choose to spray, to not be in the house for 36hrs minimum before and after.
|
Attach light fixture with 3.5" bolt holes to ceiling box with 2.75" bolt holes I've removed an old and ugly looking ceiling mounted fan (probably installed 30 years ago) which I'm replacing with a modern light fixture. The round (not octagonal) junction box in the ceiling (behind sheet rock) that the fan was attached to has two mounting bolt holes that are 2.75" apart and the new light fixture has mounting bolt holes that are 3.50" apart. The problem is how to attached the new light fixture to the existing box given that the holes of the fitting are 0.5" wider than the electric box? I've tried using an all-purpose crossbar but it doesn't work because the mounting bolts from the new light fixture coincide with the sheetrock cutout for the electric box. I thought about drilling holes in the new light fixture but think this would be dangerous because the light fixture has wires running between two pieces of metal and I obviously need to avoid drilling into them, also I cannot easily separate the two layers of metal. <Q> I managed to attach the light fixture using the universal crossbar, but with some improvisation. <S> The solution was to bolt the crossbar to the junction box and hang the combo truss bolts (to attach the fixture) from the top side of the crossbar, with the bolt heads resting on the top of the cross bar. <S> Then I secured the fixture to the bolts using nuts. <S> Not perfect but the fixture is stable and secure. <S> Thanks for your comments guys! <A> One way to deal with this problem is to install a cross bar that has adaptation from the 2.75" spacing of the electrical box to the spacing on the light fixture plate. <S> In this instance it is expected that the cross bar will stick out below the ceiling sheet rock. <S> What you do is temporarily mount the cross bar to the electrical box and then mark the positions of the wider hole set with a pencil onto the ceiling. <S> Then lower the cross bar away and drill some 1/4" holes in the sheet rock at the marked locations. <S> Then when you come to mount the light fixture its mounting bolts can screw through the ends of the cross bar and stick up into the sheet rock. <S> Another strategy is to totally replace the electrical box with one of the proper size. <S> This however takes a lot more effort and could be problematic in the case that access to the top side is needed to remove the old box and secure the new one. <A> Bolt a 1/2 inch deep round "pancake box" to the existing box and then use the mounting holes in the pancake box to attach the new fixture to. <S> The pancake boxes may come in two different sizes, but one will be perfect for your situation. <S> You could paint the exposed edge of the pancake box to match the color of the fixture.
|
The light fixture included two combo truss bolts that were designed to screw into the junction box but this didn't work because of the incompatible sizes(3.5" and 2.75").
|
Do circuits with #12 wire need 20A receptacles? In one of the bedrooms all of the duplex receptacles are 20 amps. Do I need a 20 amp switch? Also, I have a garage which is about 30 feet from the house and the wire that goes underground is either 10 or 12 gauge. Do I need a 20 amp switch for that? I always thought that if you have 12 gauge wire the receptacles or switches should always be 20. Also since my garage is all 12 or 10 gauge do the switches in the garage have to be 20 amp? I know NEC makes exception to this rule, but what is the correct thing to use? <Q> Due to a special exception (NEC 210.21.B.3), you are allowed to use 15A receptacles (plural) on a 20A circuit. <S> In order to be UL listed, all 15A receptacles must prove they can handle 20A in all respects (except 15A to any one plug, since that still means 15A). <S> Almost every 120V receptacle is a duplex (double). <S> If you have a simplex (single) 120V/15A receptacle, that is special. <S> As Ed Beal notes, since only one thing can be plugged in and it must be <= <S> 15A, the breaker must be 15A. <S> NEC 210.21.B.1. <S> if you switch a hardwired load, the switch only needs to be rated for the hardwired load. <S> If one switch controls two or more receptacles, you could plug anything in there, and the switch must be rated for whatever the breaker is rated for. <A> NEC 404.14 snap switches shall be used within their ratings.resistive and inductive loads not exceeding the rating at the applied voltage.404.14.F where used to control outlets the switch needs to be rated not less than the breaker (ocpd). <A> If the breaker is 20A, use #12 wire and 20A receptacles. <S> If the breaker is 15A, use #14 wire and 15A receptacles. <S> Of course with a 15A breaker you can still oversize the wire to #12 and devices to 20A capacity, but it doesn't do much other than prepare the circuit for a future 20A breaker. <S> Detailed answer: The breaker should be equal to or less than the ampacity ratings of everything else on the circuit. <S> Think of it as the intentional weak link. <S> If an overload occurs, you'd rather have the breaker trip first as against the receptacle/light/etc. <S> burn out.
|
If you switch a single receptacle, the switch must be rated for the maximum of that receptacle (perhaps 15A). Short answer: It has to be rated to the breaker.
|
i want to install a ceiling fanlight without connecting it to the wall switch i want to install a ceiling fanlight without connecting it to wall switch, but now that it is installed the ceiling fan light come on every time i turn on the light switch and I don't want that,please tell me how to fix this issue <Q> Generally, installers assume that if you have a fan and light combo, you will want to control them separately. <S> That's what is happening when you see a cable coming from the light switch with red, black, white and bare. <S> Ground and neutral are shared, and the red and black give you 2 hots so you can control fan and light separately. <S> You can buy double switches which put 2 complete switches in the space normally taken by one. <A> If that is the case and you want <S> only the light to be controlled by the wall switch, then you would disconnect the fan hot (red or black) from the load side of the switch and leave the light hot connected to the switch. <S> You would then connect the fan hot to the line (that feeds the line side of the switch) <S> so power to the fan unit would be on all the time. <S> You would then use the pull chain to switch the fan on and off. <A> The problem is that both hots (red and black) in the light box are switched (probably--you haven't told us enough to know for sure). <S> You could install a switch lock, or you could nut the two conductors that connect to the switch together and optionally install a blank switch plate.
|
One way this could occur is if in the wall switch box, both the red and the black going to the fan/light unit are both connected to the load side of the same switch.
|
Crusty stuff coming up between basement floor planks My son bought a 8-year old house, last August, that had some new "plastic" flooring put in the basement over concrete in preparation to putting it on the market by the previous owner. I'm guessing that was done within three months of him buying it. Just yesterday, we went in the basement and we noticed there is a crusty thing that 'oozed' up between some of the planks. Not everywhere. Just three or four places as shown here. That image shows it being flat but one of the others is humped over like it had bubbled up. I ran my finger over it and it's a dry crust that just crumbled in place. I don't know if that could be an adhesive or fungus/mold or even dog pee (he swears it can't be dog pee). <Q> Some vinyl planking, like mine, has a thin layer of corkboard on bottom to help padding. <S> This is why orange-brown crust is seeping up. <S> In my case, just in very heavily traveled area in front of bar. <S> Just scraped mine up with plastic dish scrubber and put some lemon oil on it after. <S> Lasted 3 months and had to do it again. <S> Cheaper than getting new floor! <A> Moisture moves from a cold environment to a warm environment. <S> dirt particles (and possibly colored pigment from the adhesive) up to the surface of your floor. <S> If it scrubs off easily, it’s dirt. <S> If it’s staining the flooring, it’s pigment from the adhesive. <S> To check this, clean a spot as good as you can, then tape the edges of a clear piece of plastic down over the spot. <S> If you see moisture under the clear plastic (don’t remove the plastic from the floor), then moisture is being drawn into your basement. <S> (The reason you need to place plastic over a known spot is because the moisture is coming from under the slab, there are only a few places where it can penetrate through the slab AND it is so small (minor) that it is dried by very little air movement.) <A> This is an odd issue. <S> After some investigation, I found a similar problem on another website where a guy experienced this in his garage. <S> As for the coloring, I'm unsure what color, or condition the cement was underneath the flooring, but the adhesive could have "grabbed" the pigments or loose particles that were on the cement and carried it to above the vinyl. <S> You should be able to use a razor blade to (CAREFULLY) scrape the glue off the vinyl if wipe off <S> and it should look fine.
|
It could be that there was too much adhesive / glue applied under the vinyl flooring, and after applying pressure on the flooring (walking on it, or even settling of the boards), this causes the adhesive / glue that hasn't fully cured to leak, or to shift under the board. Moisture from slab is pushing thru the cork layer and forcing it up. In your case, moisture is “transferring” (moving)
|
What to use to fill holes in floor tile in kitchen We just did a final walkthrough for a house we should close on in a few days. The kitchen has tile flooring. There are some holes in several of the tiles. The holes aren't too deep, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Luckily no cracks in the tile from whatever created the hole. I was wondering what can we use to fill in the holes. The things I googled all appear to be for bathroom/shower tiles (can post a link if needed) and not kitchen floor tiles. I don't want to buy the wrong thing because I mis-interpreted what I'm reading/seeing. Thanks. EDIT: Here's a couple photos. <Q> Are these screw holes? <S> What material is the tile? <S> A picture would be helpful too. <S> The tile should be well supported aside from the little hole, so there isn't a structural concern. <S> There isn't a significant water infiltration concern on a kitchen floor. <S> So it's really just about what will blend visually: Grout will adhere well and cure hard. <S> Probably the best choice for blending with a stone tile. <S> Caulk is easy to apply. <S> Won't be as durable as grout but probably OK in the middle of a tile. <S> If you're looking to match a glossy surface (like a white porcelain) <S> this is a good choice. <S> I'd recommend using a silicone or polyurethane based caulk here; latex/acrylic painter's caulk wouldn't stand up to much foot traffic. <S> For the most durable but most expensive and difficult fix, go for a color-matched epoxy. <S> This is the sort of thing countertop installers use at joints, and can be gotten or mixed in a big range of colors. <S> It'll run you like $5-10 a tube and if it sucks you can scrape it out and try something else. <S> I wouldn't worry about kitchen/bathroom/whatever type, as these differences mostly have to do with microbial resistance additives and other stuff that isn't really significant if you're not caulking around a shower or sink. <A> Those depressions are normal in travertine tile. <S> High-end retail tiles come with those holes already repaired. <S> The filling medium hardens and all of the tiles and grout should be sealed afterward to eliminate staining. <S> These are my preferred sealer choices: <A> So a friend told me to use something called a Travertine Repair Kit (link to Amazon) . <S> It seems to work. <S> I'll find out how hard it is when it dries and take photos to show the after.
|
Indeed, a travertine repair kit is the right choice here. But generally speaking, you can use anything that won't look ridiculous. If you are seeing a caulk that's a decent color match, I'd probably start there.
|
How can I tell if my vinyl floor is inlaid or contains asbestos? I'm removing the flooring sheets from an apartment, and I'd like to figure out whether it's linoleum (as we've been calling it this whole time) or vinyl sheets or what else. Here a picture (more can be found here ): I'm wondering: Would you know whether it's Linoleum or Vinyl or what else? According to what I read on the internet I believe it's most likely Vinyl flooring (no uniform color, the sheet itself is just a couple of millimeters thin, it was installed around the '70s etc). How do I get rid of it? They say Vinyl flooring is made of PVC and is quite toxic. A dumpster is the way, isn't it? Most likely there's no asbestos, right? I'm just being paranoid here, since on the internet they seem to link vinyl flooring to asbestos a lot. The apartment is located in a 14 store mid-to-low-end apartment building built in 1969 in West Berlin (West Germany), if this can help. Thanks! <Q> In the US at least, asbestos was used during and after the 70's. <S> I can't speak for Germany. <S> In the US at least you can get a kit for about $10 to collect a sample. <S> Then it's another $40 or $50 for a lab to test your sample. <S> I'd say it's linoleum based on the fiber backing. <S> See if you can melt it with a burning match - vinyl will melt easily but linoleum won't. <S> Do this with a small sample (don't try to light your floor on fire...) and have a way to put it out. <S> To find out what to do with it, call whoever takes your trash away. <S> The law regarding trash disposal will vary a huge amount by jurisdiction <S> so it's tough to answer exactly. <A> You're referring to "inlaid" vinyl, where the color is all the way through, as opposed to modern vinyl with a transparent wear layer. <S> Incidentally, Linoleum™ is still in production by Armostrong, and not all of it is inlaid. <S> It's more accurate to say that PVC is made from vinyl, or is a type of vinyl, than the other way around. <S> It stands for polyvinyl chloride, and it isn't usually recyclable. <S> I'm not able to tell you where there's asbestos in your building from a photo. <S> Get help from a local inspector if needed. <A> Buy an asbestos testing kit, follow the directions to take a sample, and mail it to the testing company. <S> I would wear gloves, mask, etc and dispose of them when done, but supposedly it is stable in tile form and shouldn't be a problem unless you grind or powder it. <S> Do not take my advice as 100%, please check with a professional.
|
To really know if it contains asbestos or not you'll need to test it. Linoleum™ is a brand name as well as a material, which makes it somewhat ambiguous here. If it has asbestos you will have to follow local codes to dispose of it - in many districts it may not actually be regulated for homeowners and you can dispose of it in regular garbage/dumpster.
|
If I buy only one tool between a tile cutter and a wet saw, which one should I buy? If I have to buy only one tool between a manual tile cutter and a wet saw, I wonder which one you would recommend. I have never done tiling before and this is my first DIY tile project for a small bathroom. The floor tiles I bought are 1 ft x 2 ft porcelain. I do not want to buy an expensive tool or multiple tools, since I do not think I would do another tiling project in the near future. When I check the prices of the two, they seem to be more or less same in around $100. Thanks in advance, <Q> I do not think I would do another tiling project in the near future. <S> It may be best to rent or borrow a wet saw; Buy one on eBay; or sell your new one on eBay afterwards as a used item. <S> (community wiki because an unanswered question with answers in the comments is like a faraway tap dripping in the night.) <A> If you can, buy a new or used wet saw, it will give you the ability to make more than just straight cuts, an L shaped tile around a sink vanity or a u shaped cut around a toilet water supply pipe for example. <S> You will need one with a big enough bed to accommodate the size of the tile you are laying. <S> It will make the job less aggravating . <S> you can sell it on craigslist when you are done. <S> Or you just rent one for not much compared to the cost of a new one. <A> I just finished my 1st bathroom floor tiling, 2 days ago. <S> The only tool that I bought was a super cheap HDX (Home Depot) 14-inch manual tile cutter. <S> My tiles are Porcelanosa "Porcelanico de Elite" 9mm-thick Porcelain . <S> The porcelain tiles are premium quality, and REALLY HARD. <S> I had a VERY DIFFICULT TIME scoring and cutting them with my cheap manual tile cutter. <S> I had to score several times and break the tiles by standing (jumping a bit) on them with my full body weight (150lbs). <S> If I had to do it all over again, I will buy a bigger, "premium" manual tile cutter, with a nice scoring wheel, fluid smooth rails, and a solid base. <S> Still not a wet saw. <S> The reason is because a manual tile cutter produces no dust, no water mess, and no noise . <A> As long as you only need to do straight cuts across the whole width or length of a tile, I would recommend it as the choice for ceramic tiles. <S> However, for your particular situation of porcelain tiles, I'll quote from a comment from @isherwood: <S> [Manual] tile cutters don't typically do well with porcelain. <S> It's too hard. <S> They work by scoring the glazing so regular clay/ceramic tile cracks on that line.
|
Manual tile cutters are a lot faster and less messy than wet tile saws.
|
Painting over cracks in ceiling Our kitchen ceiling has several cracks in the plaster. We need to repaint the ceilings and didn't know what our best option was for the cracks. We don't want to do some sort of plaster because we figure we won't be able to get the matching texture of the ceiling and it would be very obvious. We were thinking using good ceiling paint that the cracks would be concealed. Is this a correct assumption or no? <Q> I encountered this in my first property, which due to the age of the building would have cracks in many walls and ceilings. <S> In my experience paint does not do the job. <S> In an ideal world, you would tape over them and use some sort of jointing/finishing compound to cover the area approx 5cm either side of the crack along <S> it's length. <S> A bit of sanding and paint and you're sorted. <S> However, with your ceiling this is either going to be impossible, or look very obvious after the fact. <S> Advice you don't want, but will definitely fix it: re-plaster the whole ceiling Cheaper, but might not work: run some caulk (with the smallest nozzle possible) down the crack and smooth in with your finger. <S> Wipe away the excess and let it dry. <S> Paint over. <S> It may not be perfect, but it has the potential to work in the long-term as the caulking is more flexible and will allow for a little movement. <A> So lucky for you this is very common and easy to fix :) <S> Do you live in a cool or warm climate area? <S> The answer will be slightly different depending on the climate you are located in. <S> If: you are located in a warm climate then you can start fixing right away. <S> If: you are located in a cool climate area wait until spring passes to let the cracks get worse or new ones to appear because of the temperature change. <S> This will just save you a bit of work for future. <S> Buy a metal scraper from the dollar store scrape of the paint/texture LIGHTLY. <S> Using fine sandpaper smooth out the area. <S> Don't scrape everything off just 2-3 inches away from the crack in all directions. <S> Get CGC20 <S> and if the crack is bigger than 1/8 get some drywall mesh tape as well. <S> Stick <S> the mesh tape on the crack, and put a coat of CGC on it.. smooth it out like you would doing any other taping. <S> Wait 24 hours, take a drywall sponge/sander and smooth out the compound. <S> Depending on severity you may have to repeat the process again. <S> If it looks ok and you want to smooth out more, use cgc20 for finishing coat. <S> To duplicate the current paint texture, go to your local paint store and get a textured brush and some thick paint, show them the picture you posted they will give you the right type. <S> Duplicate the pattern with the paint, it should be pretty easy, make sure to get a small roller to do it with.. <S> it will save your shoulders. <S> P.S <S> if anything is unclear let me know i will put some more info. <S> I've had to do worse in the past lol.. <S> Product List: 1. <S> CGC20 <S> 2. <S> CGC45 3. <S> Drywall Sanding Sponge4. <S> Small Drywall knife P.S get the smaller pre mixed packages of compound. <S> And you don't NEED to re-plaster you whole ceiling <S> it is probably fine, that would just be a waste of money and time. <A> you don't need to slide paper into the cracks, the mesh tape goes on top and then when you are sanding you really gotta sand hard to basically make it flush with the ceiling. <S> The mesh tape will just stop gravity from pulling the compound out of the crack while its drying. <S> If you think compound is an overkill use CGC 20 <S> i think its in the green bag its a very light mixture that's easy to sand. <S> If you want to try an interesting way, you can buy Alex Plus caulking and cut the nozzle on a 30 degree angle so that you have a 1/8 hole. <S> When you are applying the caulking hold the gun on the same angle the nozzle is cut and apply a VERY thin layer of caulking. <S> Smooth it out with your finger and then apply the paint over it. <S> The caulking is more elastic so if your ceiling moves an 1/8 here or there it should be able to expand better than compound. <S> And then apply the paint over top. <S> :) <S> Last time i posted as guest "Mike" https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.300ml-white-alex-plus-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone---35-yr.1000158964.html <A> With just painting the crack will reappear sooner or later. <S> Scrape the texture around the crack apply drywall tape, mud it, re-texture and paint is the most common thing to do, also clean cracks just a bit and apply a bit of a latex caulk wipe with wet sponge and paint. <A> We have plaster ceilings, and walls. <S> For us the cracks turned into bubbles, the bubbles grew and grew, peeled, cracked. <S> We had professional painters come in. <S> They scraped, and scraped, then fixed and sealed before painting. <S> We have this happen every 4-5 years. <S> We like live in extreme hot and cold weather. <S> I think that’s the nature of the beast (plaster)
|
Perhaps if you slapped a lot of thick, gloss on top of them you could "fill" them, but I don't believe standard interior matte paint will reduce visibility of the crack.
|
Should I use a dedicated circuit for a towel warmer? I purchased a 120 volt (70 watt) towel warmer that will be hard wired into our bathroom. I have 12-2 wire on a 20AMP breaker already in there that will be used for outlets and lighting. Should I run a dedicated line for the towel warmer or can I use what's already there? This is the towel warmer I purchased: 24" KEEGAN HARDWIRED TOWEL WARMER <Q> If the circuit powers hardwired loads and receptacles, the hardwired loads can't account for over 50% of capacity. <S> If the circuit powers receptacles in the bathroom , then it can only power things in that same bathroom. <S> NEC 210.11C3 <A> If you check the installation instructions there is no mention of a dedicated circuit. <S> As long as the additional 70 watts doesn't push your existing circuit over the 80% maximum (1920 @ 20 amps), go ahead and add it to the existing circuit. <A> You should have at least one other circuit in that bathroom (considering 8 outlets) and use GFCI protection as well. " <S> HAIR TOOLS" .. <S> many of these are high wattage and therefore you will be sucking a lot of juice. <S> The towel bar is peanuts compared to the hair tools and other components. <S> Lights and Exhaust fans and Towel Warmer on a 20 AMP , 4 Outlets on a 20AMP GFCI, and 4 Other Outlets on a 20 AMP GFCI. <S> Small price to pay for safe hookup.
|
This is a pretty small load, so it probably won't be an impediment, but you need to follow all the rules for wiring in bathrooms . If the circuit powers hardwired loads only, this with the other loads can't exceed 80% of total capacity. Depending on placement of outlets - try to configure so the load will be balanced.
|
Painting a basement fuel oil tank I have an old 275 gallon fuel oil tank in my basement. It is showing some signs of rust. Am thinking that a new coat of paint would be a protective measure. What kind of paint/primer should I use? I read something about Galvanized Metal etching paint. Is this required? I'm not sure if the tank is galvanized, and even if it is would it be needed with the coat that is already on... There is one coat of paint on it already which I believe is just wall paint. I have used a bit of steel wool on it already. I concerned now that the wall paint did more harm than good. Do I need to completely remove it? <Q> It's possible to measure the thickness of metal with ultrasound. <S> Since water is heavier than oil, but has water vapor, you only need to check the bottom and top of the tank. <S> Yes, the wall paint is useless and in the way of proper paint prep. <S> The ideal coating is media blast to near white metal, then MIL-PRF-26915 primer, epoxy primer which can accommodate a variety of topcoats, then a 2-part LPU coating. <S> We can whittle that down to something achievable. <S> I have had very good luck with the following: <S> Create very dry conditions, long enough to thoroughly remove moisture from rusty areas, <S> i.e. Park a dehumidifier there for a couple of days. <S> Wire brush, sand etc. <S> down as clean as possible. <S> Any paint stripper should easily take the latex paint off. <S> 2-cloth wipedown with common paint thinner to remove contaminants Rustoleum rusty metal primer - though cheap, it performs surprisingly well over that last little bit of rust you can't get off without blasting. <S> Stir the can very thoroughly, the sediments at the bottom are your friend. <S> couple days to dry; quick swiff-sand with a scotchbrite pad to remove gloss rustoleum is not a final topcoat. <S> Overcoat with ideally a decent 2-part epoxy primer or paint. <S> If you don't use a 2-part epoxy, then finish it up with an alkyd (oil) topcoat. <S> If you do use a 2-part epoxy primer, you're done if the tank is shielded from the sun. <S> UV light from sunlight will wreck epoxy. <S> So you'll need to swiff-sand again and topcoat with <S> , well, you can topcoat epoxy with pretty much anything, even that wall paint. <S> Maintain the topcoat, don't let the epoxy primer be exposed to UV. <A> First reason is security of you and your family if it leaks, not just loss of property but also loss of your loved ones lives. <S> Second is your insurance provider will mandate that you replace the oil tank with the new double tank design that costs $$ however it protects you and your family. <S> As noted painting the outside does not solve corrosion inside, as well some of these rust paints are hazardous to your health because of the ingredients to prevent corrosion, many are only available in commercial enterprises due tom this, the read oxide Rustoleum is one of these, sanding makes dust that is hazardous. <S> It might also be time to look at a new heating unit as they have vastly improved and more efficient. <A> You do NOT have to replace an oil tank unless you suspect active leakage. <S> What you would need to do here is just clean it with steel wool, sand it, prime it with rustoleum rusty metal primer, then use either high temp paint or farm implement paint and a roller, let it dry and ta daa done.
|
Despite what certain TV ads say, you can't really paint over rust. The best solution unless you could empty the tank and inspect the inside for corrosion is to replace it!
|
Toilet water tank sometimes takes hours to fill and sometimes it fill up right away As stated above, sometimes the tank takes hours to fill and other it fills up in a minute or less. This has been happening now for weeks and I had no changes made recently, it started all of a sudden. Thanks. <Q> This can cause a small flow of water to continue to drain from the tank as it attempts to fill. <S> Sometimes the flapper will plop down in the correct position and allow the tank to fill normally. <S> In the leaking case, as the tank does start to slowly fill, the water pressure from above will try to push the flapper valve to a fully closed position thus starting to close off the leak and eventually allowing the tank to fill up. <S> Flapper valves, despite the claims from the manufacturer, can react with the water and become either hardened or start to decompose to a rubbery gunk. <S> (Even with the best ones I can purchase I need to replace mine about once every one to two years). <S> Both of these cases can lead to the flapper valve seating problem like I describe above. <S> The fix is to purchase a new one. <S> Typical install is easy and usually takes all of 5 minutes. <S> There may be some extra time to adjust the chain from the flush lever to get it operate correctly. <S> Chain too long <S> and it can get under the flapper and create a leak and too short and the lever tugs on the flapper putting undue stress on the part of the flapper where the chain attaches. <A> Since you don't mention lots of water running in the bowl (and when I have that problem from the flapper/flush valve it NEVER fills until it's fixed): I have one of the "modern" no-ball-arm fill valves that will stick closed sometimes. <S> Generally taking the lid off the tank and giving it a sharp rap will get it back to filling. <S> Ultimately I'll replace it when that gets to be too much of an annoyance. <A> The Filler valve could be causing your problem or the flapper could be causing it. <S> The Filler valve is a cheap and easy fix. <S> Skip the arm and ball float type and get the unit with the float on the filler valve shaft. <S> The Flapper could be leaking - you will hear it or see it drizzling - if you can not determine that add a bit of green or blue food coloring to the tank water - if it appears in your t-bowl you will know the flapper is leaking. <S> A Novice can do both in about an hour, someone who has done it before - less than 30 minutes.
|
Your problem could be a flapper valve that does not always seat down tight on the flush drain at the bottom of the toilet water tank. Get a replacement kit - they are cheap enough and easy enough to install.
|
Was my exterior door installed backwards We moved into a house recently and have discovered some less than good work that was done on the home. I am assuming this was done incorrectly as well but am not an expert and am looking for some input. The exterior door has no threshold on the outside, it is on the inside of the door sloping towards the inside. I have ants and water damage under the actual door frame as they did not caulk or use any type of protective membrane. I also noticed it is right on the edge of the exterior wall. Isn't that where a screen door should go and the actual storm door should be where that thick molding is that is 'framing' the door way? Do I buy a new door with frame and rip out that molding and move the door back? <Q> This looks like a pre-hung exterior door assembly from a "big-box", designed to swing inwards as per normal, but installed backwards. <S> A good carpenter would have assembled jamb, threshold, and weatherstrip properly for the outswing scenario; it would not have come pre-assembled. <S> BTW, they make screen door sets for outswing doors (they swing inward by necessity) but they can't be found at the "big-box". <S> And if you have room for a screen door to swing inwards you should just install a regular inward swinging door rather than the configuration that you have. <A> I am surprised to see an exterior door swing outwards as they typically swing inwards. <S> One reason for this is as you mentioned how on earth will you install a storm (or screen) door and expect a decent result. <S> Think about it for a moment - it makes it very difficult to get out of the house from the inside if there is a screen door installed and closed! <S> Basically it looks like a case of mistaken swing LH versus RH <S> and then they installed the door backwards to make it work - <S> probably a DIY'er <S> (maybe they had no idea there was a such thing as left hand and right hand doors) <S> , I can't imagine a real pro doing it - <S> but I admit I have not seen it all. <S> Check your building codes to verify if this is allowable, one reason someone might do this is that an exterior door that swings outward is much more difficult for anybody to kick the door in. <S> A door that swings in, is much easier to kick in. <S> If there are lots of break ins in the neighborhood perhaps your answer lies there. <A> Your recollection is of an inswing door, set to the inside face of the wall, out swings doors are set to the outside face. <S> The door perhaps was not sealed in with a bed of caulk and the weatherstripping does not meet in the corner. <S> Simple fixes if you want to keep the out swing door. <S> If you change the door to an inswing (regular) door, a reputable installer will fix all the issues you refer to. <A> Whoever is telling you this is <S> an inswing door are very inexperienced. <S> Do not listen to them, or hire them. <S> If they knew doors as they lead on to, they would know that if this door was turned around to an inswing position, and rain hitting the door and going down to that weather stripping, the water will either drip in while closed, or pour in if the door was opened, as the threshold under the actual door is tapered for water shed. <S> There goes a wet floor, there goes a warped floor, there goes hidden rot, there goes possible mold. <S> It is certainly an outswing door. <S> Another tip; look at the hinges. <S> If the pin is locked in position, or if there is a little locking finger inside each hinge, it is "another" characteristic of an outswing door.
|
Although the quality of the work may be questionable, it is an out swing door and the threshold is correct for such a door.
|
How to cut thin strips of Hardiebacker I started with Hardiebacker for the first time today for the wall of a shower, and was greatly impressed by the ease of the score-and-snap method for getting the large pieces I need. However, I also require some thin strips of Hardibacker for a few places (e.g., 3.5 inches wide for the entrance on either side of the curb; 1.5 inches wide in a corner). In those cases there isn't a lot of board to provide much leverage to snap, so how can I make such thin strips reliably? <Q> After scoring, place the sheet on the floor as usual, then cover the thin strip with a stiff board or straight stud as long as the score line. <S> Align one edge of the board with the score. <S> Kneel, or have someone stand, on the board. <S> Pull up on the larger piece. <S> In other words, score and snap as usual, but trap the thin piece between your work surface and a stiff strong board. <A> You can use a circular saw. <S> There is a blade for cement board, if it is just one cut or two you can sacrifice an old blade. <S> it will dull very quickly. <S> This will create copious amounts of dust, it is extremely important to wear a mask and safety goggles. <A> There is another way that doesn't require sawing. <S> Lay this flat on the floor. <S> Slip the section you want to cut off between the 2x8s with the scored cut line on top, EXACTLY on the edge of the 2x8s. <S> Put your full weight on the 2x8s with one leg & step down on the Hardiebacker with the other. <S> If it doesn't snap straight, use another board to apply even pressure the entire length & step down on that. <S> If you're cutting a narrow strip from a large sheet of Hardibacker, you can lift up on it instead. <S> You may need someone else to lift up on it. <A> (Plus, the grinder will come in handy for tile cutting.) <S> Can't emphasize enough the danger of this dust, though. <S> Good mask, good dust collection, good eye protection are all necessary.
|
Other answers are also correct -- just to add that an angle grinder with a diamond blade can either cut all the way through or score so heavily that it's easy to snap. You should also use a shop vac to minimize dust. All you need are two 2x8s with a 1/2 inch plywood spacer between them at each end, joined securely with several 3" screws, so that there is a 1/2 inch gap between the two boards.
|
How to fill this gap between window and brick wall? (too deep for backer rod?) I'm renovating the windows of my 1936 house. Doing the first window and I notice there's a big gap between the window frame and the wall and I was wondering the best way to fill it in so I can caulk it. I bought a 1/2 inch backer rod, and that seems the right size, HOWEVER, the hole is really deep and gets a lot wider about 1/2 inch in. This means the backer rod keeps falling through the gap when I try to install it. Is there something else I can use to fill the gap or should I put something behind the backer rod to stop it falling through? Any advice here is very much appreciated! Here's a picture of the gap: And here's a picture of the gap with a backer rod 'falling through' the gap where it moves around freely: <Q> If I were you <S> I'd try this <S> Fill the gap with expanding foam. <S> Give it a full day to cure (it expands so doing it too soon will potentially leave it uneven) and cut any bubbles off <S> so it's flush <S> The local big box sells something called Quad <S> but if that's not available you can probably find something similar in grade. <S> Caulk over the joint (1/2 inch is about the limit so be liberal). <S> That will seal the window and protect the foam. <A> I like the idea of using foam to fill the gaps, it will insulate the void and provide a support for the backer rod. <S> So, be sure to mark the depth required and practice with the foam on a sample board to see how much you can fill, how much the foam will continue to expand and where it stops for the correct depth. <S> A word of caution, if the window is old, the frame could tend to twist and move out of alignment when the foam is applied to one-half of the window frame. <S> How sturdy is the window frame? <S> Also, a backer rod is required, you can't just caulk back to the foam. <S> A backer rod is actually a releasing agent so the caulking will stick to the two materials on the sides (in your case, brick and wood frame) and not to the material behind the caulking. <S> DO NOT OVER FILL. <S> Most people fill too deep. <S> Most manufacturers recommend a ratio of 3:1. <S> That is to say, 3 wide and 1 deep. <S> This allows the caulking to expand and contract and still stay adhered to the sides. <S> By the way, to me, caulking and sealant are different. <S> Latex caulking is paintable, but dries out over time. <S> Silicone sealant is more flexible (better for locations with movement due to thermal issues, etc.) <S> but can't be painted...as easily.) <S> I doubt if there's a lot of movement between these two materials. <A> The Gap I have is three times that size and in the winter the the room gets really cold no insulation around the window <S> so I'm filling the open area with insulation then a log flat strip of backer rod and then with cement caulking
|
However, everything depends on getting the foam at the correct depth: too shallow and the backer rod will still fall back into the void...too much fill and the backer rod AND caulking will not fit. It's not how much caulking you can get in the joint, but rather the proper depth. Buy some really good outdoor (oil based) caulk. So, if the joint is 3/4" wide, do not fill any deeper than 1/4".
|
Is it worth using non-VOC or low-VOC interior paint? I’m remodeling a condo and painting the walls and ceiling. For context, I've heard that Valspar paint has no VOCs and may be preferable to Sherwin-Williams for health reasons. However, my general contractor wants to use Sherwin-Williams paint (with VOCs) because he “has an account” with them. <Q> Just as an FYI, if you're going to heavily color the paint, be aware that a lot of tints are not low-VOC. <S> From this site Low or no Voc (Volatile Organic Compound) <S> house paints are great, since they have little odor and limit harmful chemicals in the air. <S> But tinting the paint often defeat the purpose by adding unwanted VOCs back into the paint. <A> I prefer the low/no VOC paints. <S> In particular, I can tell you that Sherwin-Williams paints sure are smelly. <S> Real nice, but smelly. <S> Honestly I'm coming to really appreciate Home Depot's Behr paints. <S> Much less smelly and just as nice as the Sherwin-Williams stuff IMHO. <A> The VOC levels in paints do matter. <S> Not only when paint is applied and drying, but also as the coating breaks down over time. <S> VOCs interact with other airborne particulates and can pose serious health risks over time. <S> I used Sherwin-Williams <S> ProMar 200 paint line extensively for my projects <S> and my customers were always satisfied with results. <S> SW also offers a product called Harmony. <S> I tried that a long time ago when it was first released and was not happy with it at all. <S> Maybe it has been improved since that time. <S> Those are the two options for ZERO VOC at SW. <S> BTW, Sherwin Williams purchased Valspar about a year ago. <S> I wouldn't be surprised if Valspar paint is already repackaged SW paint. <A> I work in the paint department at Lowe's and all of the Valspar paint that we carry, as well as the colorant that we use to tint the paint, is ZERO-VOC. <S> In truth, most of your higher quality paints are LOW- or ZERO-VOC and are much more safe then they had been in the past.
|
To make sure the air in your home is VOC-free, use factory tinted no VOC paint, or paints that use a VOC-free colorant
|
How to prevent vermin from entering garage via space under garage door? I found mouse or rat dropping in the garage in our 'new' house. I cleaned it up thinking that maybe it was old. The other day I saw more droppings. The garage door faces the back alley where our trash cans are. There is about an inch or two of a gap between the floor and the bottom of the garage door. How do I seal this space to prevent vermin from entering the garage? Note: the garage door swings up it does not roll up. <Q> Install weatherstripping on bottom of garage door. <S> From the pics, I can't tell if the garage door rolls up or swings to open. <S> Filling a 1 1/2" to 2" gap seems excessive, but possible. <S> If the door swings, then the weatherstripping will rub on the floor <S> so you need a threshold mounted on the floor and directly under the garage door. <S> Then you can install weatherstripping on the door and have it "reach down and touch" the threshold. <S> So, when you swing open the door, the weatherstripping will "come off" the threshold and not touch the slab. <S> Remember, those vermin can squeeze through a very tiny hole, COMPLETELY fill the gap. <A> Weatherstripping or no, the real answer is: you can't. <S> Best thing to do is keep the garage & basement as clear of edibles as possible, and when (not if) mice show up anyway, start putting traps or poison in locations inaccessible to kids or pets. <A> From the photo I can't tell what the scale of the door is or if the gap is due to an uneven concrete surface, but you may be able to adjust the garage door to close or reduce the gap making it somewhat harder for the Rodents Of Unusual Size to enter <S> : Make sure the door isn't binding anywhere. <S> Should be fairly obvious if you disconnect the electric garage door opener, if you have one, and opening the door manually. <S> If you're using an electric garage door opener it should allow you to adjust the open/close distance. <S> Look on the back or side of the unit for knobs or screws that you can turn to increase the close distance. <S> Don't confuse them for the adjusters that control the open/close force . <S> Every unit is different so look up the manual first if you can. <S> If you can't find one start with a 1/4 turn at a time, run a full open/close cycle, and try again. <S> The spring(s) force need to be adjusted, but I don't recommend this because they can be dangerous. <S> Find a garage door contractor.
|
If the door rolls up, the weatherstripping can be installed on the very bottom of the door. Weatherstripping comes in various shapes and thicknesses. They'll find their way into anything, even the NORAD command center :-) .
|
Connecting the drain hose of a clothes washing machine to a wider drain pipe I need to install a clothes washing machine in the bathroom and I have a problem to solve. The drain hose of the washing machine is 25 mm in diameter on the exterior, made from a soft rubber material - see image A, while the drain is 32 mm in diameter internally made from hard plastic - see image B. How do I connect them? Is there some piece that goes in between I can buy? Do I need to cut the head of the drain hose and replace it with something else? <Q> 32mm equals 1.25" USA. <S> Standard 1.25" drain pieces can be obtained at any hardware,Home Depot, Walmart, etc. <S> You could buy another 1-1/4" desanco fitting x 1-1/2" abs or pvc piping. <S> Use the 2 desanco pieces with their washers and jamb nuts back to back and convert to a stand pipe with the 1-1/2" abs or pvc and dump the washing machine drain hose into the stand pipe. <A> If that drain is not being used for anything else (i.e. you're not connecting a sink on here as well), the normal thing to do would be to buy a "washing machine standpipe", such as is sold at any DIY store (e.g. this from screwfix ). <S> The standpipe usually has a compression fitting on the end of a U-bend; you'd need a short section of pipe to connect from that compression fitting to the push-fit connection you have in your wall. <S> To make matters more complicated, that product I found is in 40mm (which I think is standard), so you'd need a reducer... <S> but I believe flow should only ever go into bigger pipes, not smaller ones. <S> So you'd either need to find one in 32mm, or just make one yourself out of 32mm pipe and a 32mm U-bend. <A> After trying a lot of time to figure this out I eventually went to a specialized shop and this is what I've got back from there: <S> The drain hose of the washing machine goes into the black gasket. <S> The gasket is made of a soft rubber, slitely smaller on the inside diameter and with a pattern on the inside to hold the end of the hose with no glue. <S> Then the black gasket slitely larger on the outer diameter <S> gets forced into the one end of the large pipe while the smaller pipe goes into the drain. <S> No glue needed there either since the drain has a conic gasket holding the pipe in place. <S> Still need to install all of this, but it should work :) <S> Thanks for all your help.
|
Once that's connected to your drainage, you just stick your machine drain hose into the vertical pipe (using the rigid grey U-shaped bit around the hose, at the top of the pipe; the rigidity stops the hose from coming out of the pipe).
|
What heights can electrical wiring be fished through wall studs? I want to install some closet rod supports for a double rod closet. My studs appear to be spaced every 16". The rod supports need to be drilled into the studs at heights of 42" and 84". The house is a ranch, this is being done on the ground floor. The other side of the wall is a laundry room with washer and dryer outlets. I'm worried that the electrical for the laundry may be fished through the studs, and that when I drill into the studs for the rod supports, I might hit the electrical wires. Is there any way to check how the wires are arranged behind the wall, besides tearing the wall down? Some extra info: I'm in New York. The wall dividing the closet and laundry room used to be an exterior wall - the room with the closet is an extension from 2009. Thanks, picture attached. <Q> It should be centered horizontally, so if you limit your fastener depth to about 1-1/4" you should be safe. <S> If that's not deep enough you're probably not using the right fasteners. <S> Wires and pipes that are close to the stud face should already be protected with steel plates. <A> The wire can go at any hight really. <S> You can pull out the outlet to see where the wire goes though that doesn't stop it from making a weird turn a few feet down. <S> But if it is fished from above/below then the wire will be hanging loose in the space between the studs and you should only be drilling into the stud and be safe. <S> If they went through the studs you can hope they put a metal plate on the stud to stop you from drilling through the wire. <S> Though with an older house or in an addition where the drywall on the other side wasn't touched, or a contractor who skimped on materials that's not a certainty. <A> Some stud finders have a mode to detect wiring, although I've found them to generally be a bit lacking in correctness. <S> You can definitely try one, although I wouldn't take the lack of a result to be a result itself. <S> If there is wiring run through the studs, it should be run through the middle of the stud. <S> Given that the stud is 3.5" wide (assuming 2x4 construction), this means the hole for the wiring should be located 1.75" from either side. <S> If it was any closer, there should be a metal plate covering that area of the stud, preventing (or discouraging) you from drilling any further. <S> However, your closet used to be the exterior of the house, so the builders may have run the wire farther back from the laundry room wall rather than centering it in the stud. <S> Of course, there was probably sheathing and siding attached previously, so you're likely OK. <S> Were you the owner for the 2009 addition? <S> There may be some drawings, or pictures taken of the work, which may show where the wiring runs, which would provide a definitive answer without opening up the wall. <A> Since this is a closet you could drill holes next to or between the studs where you want to put the brackets and look with a borescope. <S> Use push-in plugs to seal the holes. <S> Is there insulation in the wall cavity? <S> These come in plastic or metal. <S> If there are fire code requirements mandating restoring holes in drywall, you could use the drywall plugs you cut out to patch the hole. <S> Drywall clips make repair a snap. <S> I like these https://www.zoro.com/hyde-drywall-clips-12-in-pk50-09038/i/G2120492/?gclid=CjwKEAiA3NTFBRDKheuO6IG43VQSJAA74F77zmJ-nZRgun_gGBm12qEIHAwo1D-ZZ9H0KDzTMdu0QBoCXy3w_wcB <S> I think there are ones for 5/8" thick drywall too. <S> Three clips on a round hole works great.
|
You could use a hole saw on a drill and cut larger holes and "temporarily" seal them with larger diameter plugs. Of course, you can purchase a non-contact voltage detector to trace the wiring, but this shouldn't be necessary. Your situation isn't unique, and any wall is likely to have wiring in it at various heights. Allow for a 3/4" hole, and the wiring may extend to 1 3/8" from either side.
|
Is it standard/acceptable to leave drywall bare behind kitchen cabinetry? We have contractors working on our kitchen and it's been a bit of a mess. Right now, about 3/4s of the room is drywalled/taped/floated/primed/painted (single coat)... and a small section of wall behind some cabinets and where our stove will be is just bare drywall. One of the cabinets is a set of drawers but the other is an open-backed cabinet designed to hold a built-in microwave and also has the gas line and connection for the stove. The area inside the cabinet looks like this: click to expand Will the drywall be harmed by not being treated at all? Is taping, floating, and painting necessary? My main concern is it soaking up grease/water from the stove. <Q> If it's visible it should be finished. <S> If you ever plan to clean it then it should be finished. <S> If it will come in contact with water or grease will land on it then it should be finished. <S> If it's behind a cabinet where you'll never see it <S> then that's pretty common to leave it unfinished. <A> Painted <S> No, taped and mudded yes. <S> The cabinet guys usually come in after the drywall people are done, the painters are one of the last to visit because of the danger of scuffing the finish by other workers. <S> However, by the look of your picture, that cut in the drywall looks like it was done AFTER-THE-FACT. <S> I'm guessing whomever installed the gas line for the stove had to open up the wall to do so, and did a really bad restoration job. <S> If it's a new home/job, and you are still within your warranty period, I'd get the builder/contractor to fix it. <S> If not, a little polly-filla and a splash of paint would cover it up quick enough if it bothers you. <S> Further than that probably will not get splattered anyway. <S> If there is a possibility of a major spill, for example for a dishwasher installation, I would also recommend closing the gaps around the opening using a suitable caulking filler. <S> A leaky dishwasher can cause havoc if left to drip down behind the cabinet for an extended period. <A> It is standard for them to do what you paid them to do. <S> Unless they explicitely said that they would skip the behind the cabinet sections, that is their bad for not mentioning it and something that is their issue, not yours. <S> Does it need to be done? <S> I think so. <S> I will say this. <S> First if you want to rearrange a little it isn't much to do some touch up work but <S> tape/mudding fresh in a functional kitchen is a 3 day mess. <S> Also cabinets should lie as flat as possible. <S> You could have a good 1/8" variance with completely untouched drywall to a seam that is taped/mudded/painted.
|
You should tell them to complete the job. If there is a good chance of it getting wet or grease splattered, you definitely will want to fill and paint with washable paint as far behind as you can reach with a brush. If you paid them to drywall and mud the room then they should do that.
|
Need 12' ladder on second floor but staircase is too tight I have a fan on a high ceiling (maybe 16 feet high) that I want to replace. I need at least 12 foot type A ladder but it needs to fold because I have to take it up some tight stairs and corners to get it to the master bedroom. I tried rending a fixed step ladder from home depot - it weighted a ton and it was so long I couldn't get in in the room. The telescoping ladders all seem to be 9' tall and I don't want to pay $$$ for a ladder I'll only use once. Any ideas how to get to that fan? <Q> I'd look at renting a tall-ish scaffold set - something like: When I'm standing that far off the floor in the middle of a room and wanting to be able to use both of my hands (as I would do when replacing a ceiling fan), I'd like a wide, firm base to stand on. <S> As long as you can get the individual pieces into the room you want to use it, you assemble it there. <A> Try not to scrape the side of your house as you pull the ladder up, or if you've an extension ladder, use that to get an a-frame up there. <S> Option B: hire the job out for less than the cost of a ladder. <A> Multi position ladders are the bomb. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Little-Giant-Ladder-Systems-Alta-One-22-ft-Aluminum-Multi-Position-Ladder-with-250-lb-Load-Capacity-Type-I-Duty-Rating-14016-001/202071184
|
A rope, a ladder, and an open 2nd floor window (you might have to remove both the window sashes). Lay a throw rug on the window frame to protect it.
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.