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No remote/pull chains, how do I turn off fan without turning off the lights on combo unit Just moved to new house 2 months ago. Bedroom ceiling fan/light fixture doesn't have any chains and did not have a remote with it. I have 2 wall switches, one turns the entire unit on/off and the other does nothing that I can tell. One switch on the fan unit with only function of switching blade direction. Aside from unscrewing the light bulbs anytime I want the fan on to sleep, or buy a remote, is there a way to control off/on function of fan seperatly from lights (not worried about adjusting the speed of the fan, just want to turn it off or on at current speed). I assume I will eventually need an electrician or new fan/remote however those aren't options for me financially for at least 3more weeks. Seeing as to how it's a bit cold outside, I'd like to use my lights without needing to throw on a few extra layers every time or worse, walk in, flip the light switch to see where I'm gong and be instantly annoyed with the cold air and fact that I can't seem to fix the problem. There are no brand symbols or names on the fan/light unit that I can see from below. have not seen ANY marks whatsoever but will add a comment if I figure out the brand of ceiling fan I'm dealing with. Most likely Hampton bay or the other "h" brand the commonly excludes pull chains on their ceiling units. And unit is 6yrs old or less (house is only about 6yrs old). Is there a solution that doesn't involve dragging this on til I can replace the unit or remote? <Q> Check the wiring of the fan (after taking the regular safety precaution of turning off the breaker and double checking that the wires aren't hot), chances are that there are 3 connections (besides ground): neutral, lamp and fan. <S> It's very likely that lamp and fan are jumpered together. <S> To disable the fan entirely you can then simply remove the jumper and connect the switched live to only the lamp. <S> To fix it properly you can remove the jumper and connect a separate switched live wire from the second switch to the fan. <S> If that isn't in place you will need to run that extra wire which can be difficult depending on access from above. <A> 1: First I would search the entire fan unit for an opening about 1/4 - 3/8 inch in diameter. <S> Your pull switch may have broken off and fell inside. <S> Simple solution would be to replace that pull switch. <S> You did not post pictures of it or mention make / model so hard to say. <S> 2: <S> You said "I have 2 wall switches, one turns the entire unit on/off and the other does nothing that I can tell" <S> - The other does something , try checking your outlets first to see if it turns on an outlet. <S> If the light kit does not have a pull at all - buy a new light kit or as below. <S> I also have a remotely operated fan - which does not have any pull switches - although I am sure I can add one - the fan probably had one available but it was not purchased. <S> If you have a android phone look for a mobile app for controlling Fans. <S> You might be surprised to find one. <S> Otherwise you might need to purchase a remote from the manufacturer or buy a universal remote - $20-$30. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Universal-On-and-Off-Ceiling-Fan-Remote-Control-99112/203689998 <A> Take it apart and look for manufacturer marks <S> That would tell you if there's a wireless remote you can simply buy/eBay for it. <S> I'm not a big fan of wireless remotes; they are cheap and break; you lose them; and they are low-class. <S> Check out the situation with the "mystery switch" In newer construction, builders often have a light switch operate receptacles , and don't have an overhead light at all. <S> This is a shortcut taken by cheap builders to save $12 by not installing an overhead light. <S> However in this case, they did not attempt to save the $12, and having both overhead and receptacle would be odd. <S> In fact, a fan/light begs for 2 separate switches, so Occam's Razor says that would be what a deluxe builder was going for. <S> It's likely that the builder provided all the necessary switches and wiring up to the fan, and the dumb homeowner who retrofitted this fan failed to use them, possibly because he was blindly following dumbed-down instructions. <S> Happens all the time. <S> Anyway, with careful research, you might be able to get separate fan/light control for the cost of a screwdriver and a couple of wire nuts. <S> Get a special module <S> This is what invadernoob is referring to. <S> They make special modules designed to install above the fan, that allow you to run a simple circuit to the fan, and control fan and light separately, one of two ways: the module comes with a wireless remote. <S> the module listens to the light switch: if you quickly throw the light switch off and back on, it changes modes. <S> Cheap fans are cheap <S> There are a lot of really terrible fans sold for low price at the big-box stores, it's shameful. <S> It may be better to simply replace the whole unit. <A> A possible simple solution - without trying to run down a wire or circuit is to purchase a fan/light remote from Home Depot or Lowes for about $30. <S> Follow their instructions closely <S> (ALWAYS remember to turn off the breaker/fuse at the panel before working on wiring)!The way <S> this works is that if there are a few wires in the fan that meet the instructions you can use the remote to separately control the fan and light.
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If the switch turns on an outlet - then at least you know the fan / light kit might be missing a pull switch. There's not a small chance this fan-light is a piece o'junk.
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How to route wire around a box? I am remodeling my bathroom and am bringing in a new 20 amp circuit. I want the box on the bottom to contain the GFI outlet. The box on the top will house the connection for a hardwired lighted makeup mirror. My issue is that I want to bypass the top box and bring the wire into the bottom box first and then into the top box. My issue is that I have very limited space. As you can see in the picture, the two boxes barely fit between the studs as it is. I can't run the wire on the left stud and then bring it up because there will be a pocket door there. On the right stud it's the corner of the wall. What are my options here? Should I use a shallow box for the top box and run the wire behind it to the bottom box and then back up? Can I run the sheathed wire through the top box down to the bottom box and then bring it back up to the top box? Should I try running the wire down the adjoining wall and running it through the corner then bring it up? <Q> The box must be large enough for the wire fill and device by code since you are installing a 20 amp circuit it should be #12 wire. <S> #12 wire has a volume of 2.25 per conductor and 4.5 for the device so if you use a shallow box and only run the 3 wires into it the box volume would need to be 11.25 sq inch (listed value not measured) <S> If you run through the box without a splice the volume would need to be 15.75. <S> You only count 1 ground wire in the box. <S> I did not add a clamp volume of 2.25 because these look like non clamp boxes. <S> And the cables will need to be stapled within 8" of the box, 12" with clamps. <A> Can I run the sheathed wire through the top box down to the bottom box and then bring it back up to the top box? <S> Yes. <A> Essentially wiring in parallel. <A> You have basically two choices. <S> Route or chisel out a channel in the edge of the 2x4 beside the box <S> so there is room to put the cable outside the box. <S> Or I guess door <S> #3.. <S> Put the outlet above the light switch.
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if there is enough room to put the wire to the back of the box and still have 1-1/4" to the face of the stud this would be legal. I would pigtail at the first (top) box and continue to the second box. Run the cable through the top box down to the bottom box and back up.
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20 amp breaker connected to 14 GA I have breaker that is 20 amps and is a 12 gauge copper wire that leads out of the box. Somewhere along the line in my upper crawl space it connects to a 14 gauge copper wire? What is the best way for me to find out where this connection has been made? Yes? I have checked my whole house when I been replacing receptacles and switches and even the junction box except for the upper crawl space. What is the best way to trace this type of problem. If you used a multimeter it won't tell you if the gauge of wire is 14 or 12? Is there an instrument for tracing this kind of problem and identifying where the two 14 and 12 copper gauge wire meets--if not what would you suggest. Yes getting an electrician would be last resort but besides that I'm curious on what you guys and gals do when this happens. I'm sure it has to be a wire nut connection somewhere in the upper crawl space. This connection happened some 7 years ago when I had a new box installed but never checked the labeling until recently. This particular breaker actually connects to bedrooms and some hall lights. Thank u Larry <Q> Putting this trick first but it is my last resort. <S> Turn all the other circuits off then using the stud finder watch for the voltage alert to light up. <S> You can get within a couple of inches of the wire path through the walls and figure out where it goes. <S> I have used this method several times where I was not planning on doing any electrical work. <S> It is cheap and works well <S> but you do need to turn the other breakers off for this method to work well. <S> To answer your question, here are my normal methods to trace wire and find circuit breakers. <S> I use a Greenlee CS-8000 <S> it injects a signal on the wire and can trace wires through walls and even conduit. <S> This tool is expensive ( $995 ) and not worth it for homeowners. <S> but there are lots of low voltage toner/tracers both of the above can be used with no power on the circuit or live. <S> (The wand style for telecom is limited to phone line voltages not 120 volts.) <S> These need to be in close proximity to the wire to use on 120 v wiring & the breaker needs to be turned off. <S> These are less than $100. <S> The last circuit tracer I use is the cheapest made to find circuit breakers most of these cost ~60$ and require a live circuit to work you plug into an outlet with the transmitter and use the receiver to find the correct breaker. <A> Now . <S> Since this is old wiring, you don't need to comply with current code requirements for 20A circuits in certain locations (e.g. bathroom). <S> The important thing is protecting the 14AWG wire with a 15A breaker. <S> If at some point, later, you are able to fully investigate and replace all the 14AWG with 12AWG, then you could up-breaker to 20A. <A> I am guessing the wire goes to a junction box and is wire nutted with another circuit and the circuit was probably added by someone after the home was built. <S> So I would identify what circuits the breaker controls. <S> Then with that info at hand, I might be able to get a hunch as to where there is a junction for those two wires <S> - like say they added a coach light, a porch light or outlet. <S> You can also use a Tone Generator / Tracer to track the wire down. <S> Your lowes or home depot might carry an el-cheapo that possibly will work for you.
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To find wiring when I don't have my scanner, a simple stud finder with a voltage alert. When I am doing telecom I use a less expensive toner/tracer again made by Greenlee If there is any 14 AWG wire in the circuit, the breaker must be 15 amps.
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Converting to a 3-way switch with a 2 wire cable I've got a light downstairs with the switch upstairs. I want to add a switch downstairs. I have access to the light's wiring and can add the switch easily there. I don't want to rip up the drywall though to put a 3-wire cable in. Is there any way to use a single pole/2 wire switch in a 3-way setup? This is a box I currently have access to and could wire the near-by light switch (I've got an unused one very close). I've verified that one cable goes to the light and the other to the switch. <Q> Best way would be to use a 'smart' switch of some sort. <S> There are many on the market. <S> Some are wireless (radio frequency), some use signals on the powerline. <S> These switches require hot and neutral. <S> The downstairs one would be wired as a normal switch and it would directly control the light. <S> The upstairs one would just be configured to control the other switch, and the two conductors would carry hot and neutral. <A> If there is no way to leave the downstairs without passing by that switch you could just wire the switch in series with the other one. <S> That way you could turn the light off or on from either switch. <S> However, the other switch has to be in the on position at the time. <S> So, when using the stairs you turn the light on in the direction of travel and turn it off when get up or down. <S> If this is not acceptable you could look for wireless switches that use a transmitter and receiver to set up a three way switch without the added wiring. <S> Good luck! <A> Another possibility is to install a relay. <S> Either switch controls the relay, and the relay controls the light.
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The switches would probably have to be momentary type, and the relay would toggle between on and off. However, if another person wants to use the stairs they will be in the dark.
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Is it legal to add a jumper wire to a conductor that is too short in a junction box? I live in Sparks, Nevada, and the 2011 National Electrical Code applies to me. My work will be inspected when complete. I am replacing a switch and have found that someone before me (accidentally?) sliced open the insulation on the hot wire for the switch and neglected to fix it. The slice only goes down a few inches of the wire, so I am considering cutting this off and just adding a jumper wire to it to extend it the required three inches outside the box (there will be enough wire to add a nut). Is this legal (per NEC 2011)? Specifically I am unsure if this a violation of the amount of wire I have to have coming in to the box. See picture below, the slice is visible in the hot wire. It only goes as far as you can see in the picture and is intact after that. Edit: Or should I just wrap it in electrical wire rated for at least 120V? My understanding is this is legal because it is in a junction box. <Q> I think 300.14 is quite clear. <S> You need at least 6" of free conductor, and the conductors must be long enough to extend 3" out of the box. <S> As others have mentioned, 314.17(C) requires at least 1/4" of the cable sheath to be in the box. <S> So the inspector might call you on that as well. <A> Tough problem. <S> I have to say I would be tempted to just tape up the wire, though that tape is probably not legal to cure thee insulation fault. <S> If you used brown, red, orange, yellow, blue or violet electrical tape, and also taped the other end of the same wire the same way, nobody could tell it wasn't just a wire marking, though unusual. <S> If this was a white wire <S> and you did that with black tape, nobody would look twice at it! <S> I don't think cutting it back inside the box and splicing is legal either. <S> You need to have 3" coming out of the box. <A> Thank your Grandfather... <S> Replacing a switch is regarded as general repair work. <S> In other words, no altering, or replacing any electrical wires puts those wires in a grandfather category, assuming the gyp-board is not removed as to expose the old wires. <S> Though as mentioned by others, your grounding technique needs a lot of work! <S> Twist only slightly and make the formation smooth and even after the crimp is squeezed tight. <S> Be sure to use the proper crimping device and non-insulated crimps. <A> Pretty sure you can add a jumper with a wire nut. <S> I actually had to do that in my breaker panel for a feeder wire that was a few inches too short. <S> Honestly though, that seems like less of an issue than that grounding mess you've got going on.
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Some electrical tape around the slice insulation and a wire nut to extend it longer is all that is required. As a tip of advice a large crimp rated for at least 5 #12s with two pigtails extending out for the two devices would be fab. If you can't pull more cable into the box, you're going to have to replace it.
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Can I use LVL 2x4 outdoors (pergola roof) A few days ago, I got a letter from the HOA telling me that I have to replace the warped, twisted, sagging 2x4s forming the roof of my pergola. I have absolutely zero confidence that any PT 2x4 I buy from Home Depot or Lowes won't warp/twist/sag the exact same way within a matter of months, let alone years. Three weeks ago, I replaced the first one with a normal 16' PT 2x4 from Home Depot as a science experiment. I didn't have to wait long for the results.... it's not even a month old, and it's ALREADY bowed. I did more research, and discovered LVL (and LSL and PSL) engineered studs. Except nobody seems to make a 2x4x16' (1.5"x3.5"x16') stud that's officially approved for outdoor use. The boards won't ever have to support any weight besides their own, so life-safety and code-compliance aren't concerns. However, I've also seen what happens to OSB and particleboard when they get wet. From what I've gathered, PSL swells when it gets wet, and never goes back to its original form... but Weyerhauser has a product (Parallam Plus PSL) that supposedly IS marketed for submerged use. Unfortunately, the smallest size you can get is 4x10 (3.5x9.25), and apparently you can't just take a 4x12 and slice it into multiple 4x2 pieces with a table saw. I read on another site that LVL studs will swell and cup when wet, but return to their original straight form once they dry out. I got a quote on Boise-Cascade Versa-Stud LVL from Home Depot, but when I talked to Weyerhauser's support rep, he was ADAMANT that it could not be used outdoors (but wouldn't elaborate on whether it was because it would swell/warp/disintegrate, or just a matter of regulatory approval). Has anybody seen what actually happens to a LVL (like Versa-Stud) when it gets used somewhere that's directly exposed to the elements (albeit painted)? Likewise, if I sliced a Parallam Plus into multiple faux-2x4s and used them instead, would their APPEARANCE be compromised, or would they just be useless for loadbearing applications (but perfectly capable of supporting THEIR OWN weight if they're just laid horizontally on top of a pergola)? I actually did a second simultaneous experiment 3 weeks ago... I took two 1x2 6' strips and glued & screwed them together to make a 2"x2"x6' homemade glulam. It warped into a graceful arc that would be pretty if it were intentional, but unfortunately renders it unusable for its intended purpose (a straight 1.5" x 1.5" x 6' board, to replace the original PT 2x2s that all eventually warped and bowed at one or both ends) I'm definitely open to other suggestions, if anybody can think of a better alternative to standard 2x4x16 PT studs. I looked at cellular PVC, but the ones I found were either a) not strong enough to support their own weight aross a 10-foot span without sagging, or b) so breathtakingly expensive, I didn't even get to the point of investigating their sag-resistance. As far as cost goes, I can live with spending 2-3 times as much as I'd have spent on regular pressure-treated 16' 2x4s if I can feel confident that they'll look good for at least 8-10 years. Update #2 Re the suggestion to use cedar. Home Depot can order it, and the nominal price per board isn't bad... until they hit you with a $79 surcharge for lumber special orders under $700, which completely nukes the economics of buying 10 boards, and risks total expense meltdown if I ended up having to place a second order to get a few more. Other ideas I'm currently exploring (but not really satisfied with): Attempting to use two short in-stock cedar 2x4s fastened end-to-end with a pair of mending plates. Not something I really want to do, because it wouldn't save much money and would probably look awful. Using PT 2x4s, with added bracing... a 1-1/2" x 1/8" x 8-foot aluminum plate screwed into one side of the new boards that are laying flat to strengthen the 10' unsupported span. Yeah, I'm at that dangerous, frustrated point where I'm roaming Home Depot looking for anything I can creatively repurpose as an exoskeleton to brace a 2x4... vinyl trim strips, steel stud tracks... ;-) Update #1 Re the suggestion to reduce the span. In theory, I could possibly add a third pair of horizontal beams parallel to (and halfway between) the existing two and reduce the unsupported span from 10' down to about 4.5'. Two problems, though: The "house" side of the beams is fastened to the front wall of the house with what appears to be a custom-machined steel bracket. I know Simpsons' Strong Ties would probably be functionally equivalent, but then it wouldn't match the appearance of the original brackets on the two existing beams. The attachment point ON the front of the house is the front edge of a cast in place reinforced concrete suspended slab. Maybe I'm over-thinking the problem, but I'm pretty sure that the recessed area (where the existing ones are anchored) and the dimple along the underside isn't purely ornamental, and that whatever is behind the dark-brown recessed area is likely to be pretty hard to drill through. Photos: Illustration of how the existing beams are anchored to the front of the house The frame of the pergola after I removed the warped boards What it looked like before I removed them <Q> The problem isn't that there's anything wrong with PT 2x4s. <S> The problem is that you're spanning 10 feet with, presumably, no support or bracing. <S> A 2x6 is much more appropriate for what you're doing. <S> Another option would be to stick with 2x4s and run boards the other direction, maybe less often or maybe using smaller lumber, to create a grid structure. <S> This would be stiffer and resist warpage better. <S> It's also not substantially stiffer than solid wood for your purposes. <S> (P.S. <S> Those aren't "studs", which isn't a fancy word for all 2x4s. <S> Studs are a vertical wall component.) <A> I think one would use redwood or cedar for a pergola exposed to the weather. <A> I'd use vertical grain 2x4 cedar or redwood kiln dried down to 6-8% (interior standards). <S> The problems: 1) pressure treatment: I would NOT use pressure treated material. <S> they are adding liquid to the member... <S> which creates more drying out and more warping, and 2) larger boards (use 2x6's rather than 2x4's) which will twist more than smaller boards as more moisture will need to be removed, (incidentally, increasing the width might help, but increasing the depth is exactly the wrong thing to do), and 3) using lvl boards: while dimensionally stable, they are susceptible to delaminating if not "perfectly" maintained., and 4) grade: <S> Using vertical grain material will reduce warping. <S> (Go to lumberyard and hand-pick each piece out... <S> don't rely on bulk delivery.) <S> and 5) moisture content: the single biggest factor to keeping the members straight and true. <S> Make sure the lumber is dried to 6-8% or so (unless you live in a high relative humidity area). <S> Ideally, it would be great if you could "acclimate" the wood too. <S> However, you run the risk of it twisting if not "held" correctly during the acclimation period. <S> However, as the relative humidity changes, the board will gain/lose moisture and therefore grow/shrink/warp. <S> Staining or painting will slow the drying-out/warping process. <A> I personally think you are over-complicating the situation. <S> You should think less about how to find an engineered product (Such as LVL and PVL) to solve the problem and instead look at why the wood itself bends and twists. <S> Wood will in itself act in line with its grain and organic structural make up. <S> The biggest factor in how a piece of wood 'settles' into its shape is if it contains the 'heart.' <S> This is the center of the tree and any piece of wood that contains it will go nuts over time twisting like crazy. <S> Study the grain fluctuation and order wood as 'FOHC' <S> (Free of heart clear) with a larger waste factor and then vet the wood you use avoiding large changes in the grain and <S> you will get a superior result in your product with a much lower price point than going to engineered wood products. <S> I would also say to keep in mind that increasing the amount of wood used by pairing up joists doubles your weight which your structural base may not be engineered to handle and could potentially create a failure point. <S> This means more structural work and everything that comes with it (To include the foundation/footings) which you do not want to mess with. <S> If you want to go nerd nuts on the perfect solution calculate the weight distribution you are looking for and put wood under that load for 30 days. <S> This will tell you how that wood will settle and use the pieces that fit your standards. <S> Understand that the price of LvL and PvL is not the only issue. <S> You have to get framers/electricians/plumbers that understand how those engineered products function and how to build with them. <S> If you cut into 30% from either side of a LVL (Like any uneducated subcontractor would) you totally wreck its structural integrity and ruin any benefit the engineering of the product ever provided. <S> Its not just the product that matters, its how its used. <S> The price point difference to properly use these products you are talking about is 10-15 times material cost + the expertise to know how to work with them. <S> Focus on pragmatic simple solutions and you will end up with a better end result with a lower cost.
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LVL lumber, like any laminated wood product, will eventually come apart if exposed to the cycles of weather.
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Remove brown bicycle tire marks from vinyl floor I'm trying to remove these brown bicycle tire marks from my kitchen floor (see pictures). I've searched the internet and I have tried the following recommendations: White spirit Bike degreaser (Muc-off) WD-40 Soda crystals Scrubbed using abrasive scourer Flash Magic Eraser Rubbing alcohol Bleach However, nothing has worked at - not even slightly. It looks like the stains may be permanent, but as I have nothing to lose (rented flat) I'm willing to try anything in order to reduce the stains and salvage some of my deposit. I have two questions: Is there anything/product that may help that I have not yet tried? Is this actually vinyl flooring? The floor seems to be a continuous material, where I have seen vinyl flooring on the internet as square blocks that are fitted together. <Q> The only things I see you haven't tried are vinegar and nail polish remover. <S> With the vinegar - just put some on the stain <S> let it sit a bit, then wipe off. <S> I'm not sure it'll help you as you already tried bleach. <S> About the acetone in the nail polish remover, I'm more optimistic - <S> it cleans everything (just first test it on a part of the vinyl that is hidden under a cupboard or something <S> so you know you won't damage further). <S> Good luck! :) <A> Since you have nothing to lose at this point. <S> Keep it there for a day or two. <A> acetone. <S> it gets most rubbers off of most surfaces. <S> try an inconspicuous corner somewhere first to ensure the acetone doesn't attack the flooring surface. <S> just curious how you got brown bicycle tire marks all over your kitchen floor? <S> since most bicycle tires leave black marks, are you sure they are from a bike tire? <A> I think its linoleum not vinyl flooring. <S> Try Turpentine or kerosene or silver polish or linseed oil or paste wax... <S> Scrub with steel wool. <A> After trying everything list (except for silver polish) I gave up. <S> There wasn't a single product that could removed the stain even slightly. <S> I have to assume that the stains are permanent.
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Then try to rub/scrub it off (non abrasive scrubber). Try making a baking soda paste and smothering it on a stain.
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How to run chlorine feeder at the same time well pump is running I have a chlorine feeder (120v Stenner 45) that is supposed to run at the same time my well pump (240v) is running. Currently they are set up on separate pressure switches, with the chlorine feeder set to switch on (40.x psi) slightly before the well pump (40 psi) is triggered and off slightly before (59.x psi) the well pump (60 psi) shuts off. Obviously this isn't ideal because A) it is hard to keep configured and working properly, and B) there is a chance that the chlorine feeder could be triggered, yet the well pump not get triggered (there is at least quart difference between the 2 trigger pressures), leaving it to run longer than needed. As I see it, I have a few options: Buy a 240v chlorine pump and run them off the same pressure switch($$$). Find a different type of switch for the chlorine feeder - e.g. flowswitch. Find another way to run the chlorine feeder off the same pressureswitch as the well pump. If it's possible, this seems like the easiest approach. The 240 well pump line has 3 wires, I presume black and white are both hot and the ground. Is it possible to wire this switch to a 120 device (and leave it on the 240 well pump)? Other? <Q> Use a relay with a 240 coil (connected to the well pump circuit) and 120V contacts (connected to the feeder.) <S> Use the pressure switch only to switch relays (at any convenient coil voltage) and use (suitably rated for the power) <S> relays to switch both devices. <S> But the first option will be cheaper - only one relay, and that for the low-power feeder. <A> (Note I do not endorse this setup of 'always running the chlorine injector with the well pump if theres any irrigation running from the same well pump, see my comments in the other answer.) <S> It is possible to run the 110v injector off one of the 220v legs. <S> I can take a picture of doing this sometime this weekend. <A> The best answer is flow switches for a reasonable cost and solves the irrigation problem http://www.pool-spa-supplies.com/grid-controls-flow-switch-model-225-2in-spg-25amp-57-f1-2225-00w <S> Install the flow switch inline to the conditioned water flow, and run the irrigation on a separate line so as not to trigger flow in the conditioned water side. <S> Some of these switches have additionally a 110v receptacle installed that would enable you to simply plug in your injector pump into the flow switch and the flow switch will automatically turn on and turn off the injector pump as conditioned water is demanded into the house.
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The well pump is running 220v already and the injector pump is 110v, simply run an additional line off of either of the pressure switch contacts.
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What is the appropriate way to seal an opening in a pressurized tube around an inserted object? I have a loop consisting of approximately 6' of 3/8" ID tubing, pressurized with a pump running at approximately 1 GPM. I would like to add a few temperature sensors into the loop to read the water temperature at varying points. Reading the temperature of the exterior of the tube will provide sub-optimal accuracy. Fittings with built in thermometers are available, but expensive in quantity and would require the addition of a regulator to step down voltage in my application adding complexity and more cost. The best way I can figure to do this is to buy a fitting like this , and then insert the sensor of a thermometer (such as this ) into the reduced opening and then seal around it. However, I suspect quite a bit of wiggle room around the sensor and fear that silicone will blister and eventually leak under the pressure. And since there is a sensor line going into the opening I cannot simply tape over the silicone to resist the blistering. This application requires reliability in the seal for a minimum of 3 years. The seal can be permanent; there will never be a need to remove the thermometer from the fitting or line. The loop will be filled with distilled water at temperatures ranging from 5C to 60C and the seal must hold at both extremes. <Q> Many years ago at the beginning of my engineering career we made sealed temperature sensors using silicon diodes bonded onto the ends of Teflon insulated wire. <S> The wires were then fed through two holes drilled through a short length of 0.25" diameter Teflon rod. <S> The rod was the inserted into a standard brass compression fitting using a standard brass compression ring that tightly sealed the Teflon rod and formed it very tightly around the pass through wires. <S> What you see above is a heater assembly that produced a temperature controlled gas stream in the range of -55C to +125C. <S> The two diode assemblies on the heater were for redundant critical over temperature safety cutouts and the one at the pipe TEE was used to monitor the gas stream temperature for closed loop control of the heater assembly. <S> Thermal mass of of the system was part of maintaining a stable gas stream temperature. <S> Note <S> that silicon diodes biased at a constant current of 1mA produce excellent temperature sensors that are linear over the whole operating range of -55to+135C. <A> I think what you are looking for are called 'instrumentation fittings'. <S> However, it doesn't sound like you have a temperature sensor yet <S> , why not just go for one with threads (eg, <S> search "temperature sensor MPT")? <S> Easy to install with any type of plumbing using a tee and otherwise standard parts (bushings and maybe a FPT adapter). <A> If you want it to last for 3 years, choose a thermowell, that's what they are made for. <S> One problem with your proposed fitting is that only the very tip of the sensor will be exposed to the flow. <S> Depending on the sensor (good luck finding details on that from your source) this may make the response very slow & inaccurate. <S> A better fitting might have a 1/2" bore with the thermowell running along it, and 3/8 fittings at either end, so the fluid passes by most of the sensing element. <S> There is a fitting the name of which escapes me at the moment that has two half-grooves with a screw thread to push them together, which squeeze an O-ring that seals a rod or rod-like item that fits through the center of the fitting and o-ring. <S> They are mostly used for things that have to be moved in and out (or something inside moved by the rod being attached to it.) <S> Similar to a cable gland. <S> For a typical electronic sensor I would agree that lag time for one bonded to a metal fitting (such as a simple coupler) or the exterior of metallic tubing with the outside of the area around the sensor insulated would be minimal, particularly for 3/8" diameter. <A> The other answers are correct, you need a well. <S> If you don't want to buy one browse the plumbing aisle and see if you can figure something out. <S> Start with a Tee fitting that has as large a female side port as possible <S> (perhaps 1/2" or 3/4"). <S> Find a small prethreaded stub pipe about 1 or 2" long that is 1/4 or 3/8" diameter and a cap to plug one end of it. <S> The cap needs to fit into the side port and be positioned in the middle of the liquid to be measured flowing through the end ports of the Tee. <S> Now find a bushing that has a female inside thread that matches your stub pipe, and a male thread on the outside that matches the side port of the T. <S> This allows the cap to fit into the side port of the T and fills the gap between the inside of the side port and the outside of the stub pipe. <S> Done <S> right you can thermal epoxy your sensor down the center of the stub pipe against the cap and get good coupling with the liquid. <S> Metal fittings are best. <S> Hope the horrible ASCII art helps. <S> T = <S> T Fitting (threads inside), C=Cap (threads inside), P=Stub pipe (threads outside), B= <S> T <S> ^ <S> TT <S> | <S> TT <S> TT TTTTTTTT CC <S> BBBBBT C PPPPPPPPPPPPPT <S> C T <S> C PPPPPPPPPPPPPT <S> CC <S> BBBBBT TTTTTTTT <S> TT <S> ^ <S> TT <S> | <S> TT Flow T
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Bushing (threads inside and outside)
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Is it better to wire power to your switches or your fixtures first? Given the option, is it better to bring power to your switches first, then run wires to your lights? Or is it better to bring the power to your lights first, then run wires to your switches? Or does it matter? <Q> For new installations, the important thing is really getting neutral to the switch location. <S> NEC requires it (in most cases) as of the 2014 edition Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use Article 404 Switches 404.2 Switch Connections. <S> (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. <S> The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following [...] <S> It allows you to use more advanced switches (timers, motion sensor, lighted, <S> and/or 'smart' switches) <S> To get a neutral to the switch you generally either need to: Run power to the switch first Run a 3-conductor <S> (eg 14/3) between the switch and power location (carrying neutral, hot, and switched-hot). <S> Given 14/3 is more expensive than 14/2, in most cases, I'd say run power to the switch first unless it's substantially father away from the power source than the lights (eg: <S> the power-supplying wire passes your lights, then you have to double back with power to the lights). <S> If you only have a couple situations where you need this, it may not be worth it to buy a spool or some bulk 14/3, so it's ultimately a judgement call. <A> However, it likely depends on the cost difference, and ease of installation between the two methods. <S> Without more detail, it's impossible to say for sure. <A> The question of "is it better" was actually determined by what the NEC code says. <S> In a nutshell... the hot or supply wire needs to run into the switch box WITH its mated neutral wire first. <S> The reasoning is that many of the new switches have circuitry in them that require a neutral and "end running" <S> the switch doesn't provide that. <S> Technically, and for liability purposes, if you touch it, it MUST be brought to code. <S> However, in the scenario you brought up, all of that will be determined by exactly where that circuit is fed from. <S> If you are doing a 3 way switch, and following code, it has to be in one of the switch boxes. <S> The outlet for that circuit can be tapped out of the box that has the hot but that hot won't be in a light fixture box.
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Since neutrals are now required at switch locations, it's theoretically " better " to bring the circuit to the switch first.
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Difficult to start a four stroke mower when cold - how to diagnose the problem I have a mower with a Tecumseh LV148AE / LV195EA engine that will run pretty well once it warms-up, but getting it started when cold is quite a challenge. The way I have been able to get it started is to keep pulling on it about 20 times. At that point, I might get it to fire once or twice. Another 10 pulls and it'll fire again maybe five or eight times. Finally, it'll start running. Stopping the mower for a few minutes to empty the grass, it'll start up with one or two swift pulls. Even if it's been off for an hour, it will startup after a few swift pulls. But if it sits since the last time the grass was mowed, it needs that huge number of pulls to get running. My theory is that it's not getting good compression any more. I've ruled out fuel and spark as a problems since it runs pretty much flawlessly once it's warmed-up. My plan is to do a bit of diagnostics the next time I need to run the mower. I'll start by doing the 10 pulls, and I expect no firing. Then I'll remove the spark plug, put some oil in the cylinder, and replace the spark plug. If it immediately starts, then I'm going to presume that's because the abundant amount of oil is causing a better seal between the piston rings and the cylinder wall, giving me better compression. Is the above diagnostic idea a valid one? EDIT: Squirting oil in the cylinder did not make much difference. My next attempt is a new plug. The existing plug looks good and is properly gapped, but I'll try the plug next (simple things first). Another idea is if the muffler is causing too much back-pressure, so if the plug doesn't help, I'll take the muffler off for another quick test. EDIT: Additions based on comments The mower has a bulb to press, and I've used it as directed. I have tried starting fluid, but it doesn't have much impact, which is why I was thinking it wasn't a fuel issue. I can get an entire new carburetor, delivered, for $10, which I will try after I replace the plug. Smoke is not a symptom, so that aligns with the oil in cylinder test not having improvement. When I say "cold" I mean North Carolina spring cold, as in 50F. The winter might have gotten down to 20F, though. There is no manually operable choke mechanism. I do not see a fuel filter in the parts diagram. Last EDIT: Replaced the carburetor (see my answer , below) <Q> I had an identical problem as yours with my Toro 4-cycle mower. <S> Eventually, the mower wouldn't start at all, which I tracked down to a dead ignition module (ignitor). <S> After I replaced it, it's been easily starting for about 4 or 5 years now. <S> The ignitor looks like this: <S> This may or may not be your problem, but if you've eliminated everything else... <S> I used a piece of card stock to set the gap between the ignitor and the rotor. <A> The mower starts on the first pull now. <S> Here is what I did, in order: <S> Replaced the spark plug (properly gapped) <S> - Didn't solve <S> Changed the oil - Didn't solve <S> Replaced the carburetor <S> - Now starts on first pull <S> The only reason I replaced the carburetor is because I could get it on eBay for $10, delivered. <S> It was pretty easy to install; the top plastic cover came off easily, and so did the muffler. <S> The carburetor is held on with two bolts. <S> One needed a socket and the other needed an open end wrench (due to interference). <S> In other words, easy to install if you have the right tools (socket wrench and open end wrench). <S> Theory of Why This Fix Worked <S> Originally, the mower worked once it finally got warmed-up, so I thought fuel was not the problem, and mistakenly focused on compression. <S> My theory is that, although it was always getting fuel, it wasn't getting fuel properly when cold. <S> Thus, replacing the carburetor allowed factory spec fuel delivery, and so the machine returned to easy starting. <S> Cleaning the Carburetor? <S> There are some little holes you can run a small wire through, and that might have also solved the problem. <S> But since the replacement part was cheap and readily available, I went that route. <S> ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, A <S> ONE+ YEAR LATER: <S> The mower began getting harder and harder to start, and finally just would not start at all. <S> In order to check the spark, I removed the spark plug, then reconnected it, rested it on the block, and pulled the starter rope. <S> No spark. <S> So I ordered the part referenced in Bill's post, here: <S> https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/110886/4323 <S> The mower is now starting in about 1 to 5 pulls. <S> ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, AN ADDITIONAL 6 MONTHS <S> LATER: <S> This spring, I poured fuel into the machine and it immediately began leaking out. <S> I made a 10 minute installation video . <A> Without knowing how cold "cold" is, my answer may not help, but this really just sounds like typical starting behavior for a cold environment. <S> As an example, I had a snowblower. <S> When it was 0°F out, the pull starter was next to useless, which is why it had a plug-in electric starter as well. <S> My lawnmower, however, would take a pull or two but in 75°F weather, it would start up nicely in reasonable time. <S> Warm engines always start up faster, which is why a restart occurs faster, even after an hour or more. <S> To address some items you mentioned, lawnmower engines aren't built as high-performance engines. <S> It's unlikely that it's worn down the piston rings (if it uses rings) because it doesn't likely run a particularly high compression. <S> It's built to be reliable as opposed to powerful <S> so you sacrifice some gains from a higher CR and instead get lower wear. <S> Also, compression loss wouldn't just affect startup performance. <S> It would also affect running performance, with such symptoms as stalling under load, oil degradation from blow-by, and (if it has a PCV) increased oil consumption. <S> You even noted that adding some oil to the cylinder directly didn't seem to help. <S> You didn't mention engaging the choke, so perhaps that's your issue? <S> Oh, and check the fuel filter.
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I suspect that cleaning the carburetor also would have worked. With a cold cylinder, the engine needs excess fuel to establish a flame front at all, and the choke enables that. Rather than try to figure out what seal was bad in the carburetor, I bought yet another carb and installed it.
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Is this asbestos insulation? I was removing some panels in the garage of the house that I rent, and found one wall filled with insulation, at first I thought of mineral wool but as it all fell in crumbles I'm afraid it might be Asbestos insulation. Will take a sample to the lab but would like to know your opinion in the meantime. Thanks <Q> Looks like fiberglass or rockwool(this is not asbestos). <S> Safest to have it tested <S> but you should seal off the space and not enter it until you know. <S> I've two Aunts who died from indirect contact with asbestos. <A> I doubt it. <S> Usually asbestos insulation is "fibrosis" and easily floats and flies through the air... <S> this looks "foam-like", but you're smart to have it tested. <S> (We found asbestos in mastic, so you never know.) <A> It is not asbestos. <S> My father-in-law and I insulated his attic with that stuff about 50 years ago, when I was young and dumb. <S> I itched for days and we did the work in July. <S> They called it pouring wool <S> and it came in bags. <A> Thanks for the answers. <S> After finding that insulation I went on a asbestos hunt and easily found some tape around the furnace ducts, so far only outside the duct. <S> Is it of any concern if it's not disturbed?
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Even if it is fiberglass you should be wearing a filter mask as it is essentially spun silica (glass) and the particles can cause silicosis (and skin irritation).
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Can a plug melt when unit is not turned on? My Skutt kiln was plugged into the socket (240 volts). When I came in to check the kiln, the plug was completely melted. I was told the unit had not been turned on. Is this possible? <Q> If there is current leakage between pins of the plug, almost a short circuit, then that can happen. <S> Turning the unit on only conducts current to the rest of the unit inside its container. <S> If the current leakage between the pins was higher, you would blow a fuse. <S> You need to check the fuse, or circuit breaker, for the circuit it's plugged into because it might be too large and allowed the plug to melt. <S> Of course, it sounds like there is a problem with the plug itself. <A> It's far more likely to burn up a plug during operation. <S> The two conductors are well insulated from each other within the plug, often compartmentalied on heavier plugs. <S> Thermal damage reduces conductivity and increases resistance. <S> If while off , there would have to be a Lee Harvey Oswald "magic bullet" short between the poles - not too thick <S> or it would trip the breaker, but still thick enough to do serious damage before its increasing resistance self-extinguishes, e.g. by burning up the shorting path. <S> If while on , a loose connection on either conductor would suffice. <S> Current is being forced through the connection by the electrical load, so the increasing resistance of the failing connection would make more heat, not less, creating a death spiral of increasing heat. <S> The latter seems the more likely scenario, but an autopsy of the plug will tell the tale. <S> Was the plug recently replaced? <S> Stranded wire strands can get away from you, and lay a single strand or two where they should not be. <S> But it would fail shortly after plug replacement. <S> With a pre-manufactured plug with a molded end, that is improbable. <S> That's why I like those. <S> And how would an operator be reasonably expected to notice? <S> It's a kiln . <S> It produces lots of heat and smell, which would tend to mask the problem. <S> It's possible the crew is telling you it happened after it's off, merely to CYA. <S> It's possible they didn't know. <S> Is the plug on your PC plugged in all the way? <S> Of course, CYA presumes that the worker would have had any ability to prevent this. <S> I doubt they could. <S> Maybe someone yanked really hard on the cord, maybe not the worker, but that's on the employer <S> , workspaces must be set up so trip hazards are avoided and cordage is protected. <S> Maybe they're just worried about a boss who is a bit irrational sometimes. <A> In most instances of a plug melting on a heavy current device, such as a kiln, it is due to a poor connection. <S> That could be the electrical outlet contacts not grabbing firmly to the contacts on the cord when plugged into the outlet. <S> Current flowing through the poor connection can create heat at high enough temperatures to melt the plug or even the outlet itself. <S> This would normally happen when the kiln was in operation and could have gone unnoticed during the previous usage cycle. <S> The style of cord assembly shown as a replacement for a typical Skutt 240V Kiln at the company web site in the Portland area shows that the plug end is an assembled unit that most likely uses screw terminal connections to secure the wires inside. <S> This type has a greater chance of developing an a poor connection inside than a molded plug assembly where the wires are crimped or flash welded to the contacts. <S> It is possible that another type of failure could create a short in the plug assembly or in the wire cable right near where it exits from the plug assembly. <S> Such short can also create high heat and melt the plug but this would almost always result in the the circuit breaker opening at the power panel at the facility. <S> If the kiln had been previously used and then the plug melting occurred after the fact then it would imply that the shorts occurred when the plug was simply left plugged in and undisturbed. <S> I suggest that this is unlikely due to the fact that an intermittent short is more likely to occur when the cord or plug is flexed or moved around.
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But it could also be due to a loose connection in the plug itself.
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Finding circuits on breakers I have 5 circuits that I cannot identify on my breaker box. I have included every known end-point including furnaces, outdoor outlets, garage, etc. I was wondering if there was any way to disconnect the breaker in question and use a signal source at that end and some type of signal sensor to walk around the house looking for the signal. I do know in which direction the cables exit the breaker box; to the crawl space or up to the ceiling/second floor. <Q> "Breaker Finder" (mentioned above) or "Circuit Breaker Detector" is a must-have tool as well as a label maker IMO. <S> I bought an inexpensive detector from Harbor Freight for under $20 thinking that it was a one-time use. <S> Two houses and countless labels later, it's still there when I need it. <S> Also, you might want to grab a lightbulb socket to outlet adapter for ~$1.00 and use the detector's receiver in that. <S> Another suggestion is to see if there are multiple wires into the back of a breaker. <S> It's an illegal practice and potential safety hazard (although some people may debate this.) <S> It can screw up readings from breaker detectors as well as leave you confused why other areas of you home might are affected. <S> Also, panels are not allowed to have completely empty slots (holes.) <S> instead of a metal slot cover, someone might've stuck an unused breaker in there to fill in a void. <S> Last but not least, someone might've left a breaker in but terminated/capped off the wiring. <S> If so, hopefully it's at least in an accessible junction box. <A> When I have this happen, I normally recommend to disconnect the feeds (hot, neutral, and even ground) inside the panel, then cap and label them. <S> Include a date. <S> If you don't have a labelmaker (everyone should have one of these!) <S> you can use the plastic sheathing from Romex 14/2 or 12/2 and write it on there. <S> Then slide the sheathing over the wires, and tuck them neatly behind the rest. <S> Do not cut them shorter, as there is a chance you'll stumble across what they were for down the line. <S> If it's labeled in some logical, coherent manner, anyone in the future (including yourself) will much appreciate the investment of your time so they don't have to do the entire process all over again. <S> Houses change hands many times over their lifetime, and the little things like writing the circuit number on the inside of receptacle cover plates makes an average electrician suddenly look like Nostradamus. <A> There are some options to try 1. <S> Visual Test. <S> No arching indicates no load, but could also mean an outlet with nothing plugged in, or a light bulb that is not on. <S> But definitely it is not a always on load like a refrigerator. <S> 2. <S> Use a toner. <S> See here and also here . <S> A toner will send an audible signal on a open circuit that will be amplified to some degree by the receiver. <S> 2. <S> Use a AC circuit breaker finder . <S> I can say from experience this is a pretty handy little guy here. <S> Takes a little practice though! <S> 4. <S> Leave off and see what is not working. <S> This is usually the best option I think.
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A simple visual "make and break" of the black hot wire while the breaker is on to see any arcing will indicate a load.
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How can I verify that my ceiling fan is properly grounded Up front, my question is...how do I most easily and safely check to see if my ceiling fan is grounded? Now for the explanation. I recently installed 2 identical ceiling fans about a day apart in my two spare bedrooms. Both had fans in them previously; I'm sure they are properly secured in the ceiling. The question arose from when I was installing the second fan. Barely looking at the directions, I came to the part where it was time to properly ground the fan. As I was pigtailing the two green wires and the bare copper ground together, I had an "uh-oh" moment where I don't remember doing this for the first fan. I feel like I only pigtailed the two green-sheathed wires together and the bare copper is up there unattached somewhere. I may have done this, but I don't remember. I've already tested them both to see if they work, no problem there. I know touching any metal part of the fan would give me the answer (wink-wink), but I of course don't want to risk being wrong. Is there any easy and SAFE way to determine if it is grounded, or alternately could someone tell me the most efficient way to disassemble the fan the least to accomplish this? I really do feel like I probably did it right, following the directions religiously the first time. It was just a weird feeling during the installation of the second fan to have that uh-oh moment. I just want the easiest route to being assured. I thank you for your responses. <Q> Do you have a multi-meter and an extension cord? <S> If you do plug the cord into any outlet then drag it over to the fan and measure between the fan case and a ground pin on the cord... <S> It should read close to 0 resistance. <A> It's a fairly simple thing to check continuity if you have a multi-meter available. <S> You might need a length of wire to reach a nearby outlet's ground connection (the bottom/centered hole in a standard U.S outlet). <S> You shouldn't need to drop the entire fan if it's mounted like most modern units are. <S> Related: <S> Is it okay to have an ungrounded light fixture? <A> Does it have an integrated light? <S> If so, pull a bulb and use a meter to check the voltage (turn on the light) by placing one lead on the center pole of the light bulb socket and another lead a metal part of the fan housing - somewhere it isn't painted. <S> Try to put it on a screw. <S> If you get 110VAC (and you wired the fan correctly), you are grounded. <A> Thank you everyone for your input. <S> I think the easiest solution was the multi-meter one, but I don't have one of those. <S> I went with removing the shroud and visually inspecting the wiring. <S> Although the blades were tough to work around, I would say this was a pretty easy solution; it took under a half hour start to finish. <S> By the way, I indeed did not attach the bare copper wire to the green sheathed ones. <S> I had left it attached to the green screw in the outlet box. <S> Thank again!
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Really, you could just drop the shroud and have a peek.
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Test outlets to see if knob and tube? (grounded?) Considering a rewire in the future and want to figure out which outlets (and ideally fixtures) are knob and tube. I know many are, some are not. Probably all 2 prong outlets are k&t, possible some 3 prongs are as well. Is this best done with a multimeter, an outlet tester or something else? What are the steps then? Thanks! <Q> There is no electrical or technical way to tell if a box is wired with K & T. <S> You'd get the same results with old non-grounding NM cable. <S> The only way is visual. <S> You'd have to open each box and check with your eyes. <A> The copper wire used in knob and tube has identical electrical behavior to copper wire in any modern cable assembly. <S> Determining the wire type (sheathing around the copper) and cable assembly or use of conduit is something that can only be done visually. <S> Also, tracing visible portions of wiring in an open attic or basement also provides good clues. <S> That said, if any work was done on your home without a permit prior to your ownership, it is certainly possible that the work was done by a homeowner or handy man unfamiliar with proper electrical code and safety. <S> In these cases, it is not uncommon to see modern wiring in a device box with an illegal and unsafe splice/junction concealed inside of the wall. <S> Regarding your guess that 2 prong outlets are knob and tube while 3 promo outlets may be modern wiring is a good guess. <S> That said, the three prong outlets may still be knob and tube even if an outlet tester reports proper grounding because it is permissible to run separate ground wires to ground old wire in some situations, so that still brings you back to visual inspection as the only way to confirm the wire type. <A> I don't know of a tester that'll tell you about wiring type. <S> Your best hope may actually be looking at how wires enter the junction boxes, as well as a borescope in any openings therein. <S> Borescopes are quite inexpensive of late and attach to a phone as their power and display. <S> I would use a plastic-bodied one and turn off the power. <S> What people worry about with K&T is wiring failure. <S> This is easily detected by an arc-fault breaker (AFCI). <S> The AFCI will have trouble if several K&T circuits share a neutral, but that was never a common practice for the same reason <S> it's not today: 2 hots sharing a neutral overloads the neutral unless it's set up just right (MWBC). <S> There was another worry which was debunked. <S> Consider Romex, run through walls packed with insulation. <S> Despite both conductors packed tight together in an insulating sheath, they don't have any trouble cooling. <S> For some reason, somebody thought Knob-n-Tube would have a problem with that, particularly blown-in insulation done as a retrofit. <S> Further research proved that to be false: insulation-packed K&T didn't have any worse trouble than otherwise. <S> So states have started allowing blown-insulation over K&T. <S> The third issue with Knob-n-Tube is no ground. <S> NEC 2014 liberalized the rules for retrofitting grounds, so you can add grounds wherever needed. <S> If it was me and I suspected K&T, I would install AFCI breakers, and retrofit grounds as needed. <S> The cost of a big wiring tear-out is better spent on other safety concerns.
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Opening up the electrical device boxes (make sure you understand how to work safely on electrical equipment if you proceed with these steps) and inspecting the wire coming into the box will allow you to determine the type of wire feeding into the box.
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How to cut off and insulate live 3-phase power? I need to disconnect my 3-phase cables from the power pole to my house. I'm building directly under it and though the contractors say they are okay with it, I would prefer to disconnect for a week or two to be 100% safe. There is at least one spot where the cable has perished a bit and I can see copper showing through. This is my plan: Wear rubber gloves, rubber shoes; make sure power can't go to ground through me and use a 1000V cable shear. Tie the cable on both sides of the cut so that the live end doesn't drop away. Cut the cable. Run a 6 inch tube of plastic pipe over the live end, and bend it over before taping it closed with plastic electrical tape. Coil and hang up the loose end safely away from the building. Repeat this process with all 4 cables, keeping them separate. I am located in South Africa. <Q> Call the utility, ask for a disconnect. <S> Or call the mortuary and pick out a casket. <S> This is not a job for amateurs. <S> Nor for gloves not rated and tested for the voltage. <S> But that's just one tiny piece, so don't think solving the gloves is making you qualified to do the work. <A> The cables feeding your house are owned by the power company. <S> They own everything from the power pole to the main breaker, which includes the meter. <S> So they will need to be the ones to do the work you describe. <S> It is a legal issue of ownership, not just of safety. <S> If you report to them that there is degradation of the cables and exposed wiring, it wouldn't be surprising if they were out there the same day (or night) to have a look. <S> They might actually do the work at the pole instead of at the house. <S> But let them decide, since it belongs to them. <S> If you were to attempt it yourself and had any sort of accident the only protection for their system would be pole-mounted breakers. <S> A direct short could cause instantaneous unintended disassembly of a transformer or blow the pole-mounted breakers which would most likely cause a neighborhood-wide blackout. <S> It is unlikely that your insurance would cover a willful act on your part which could cause ramifications to grandma who lives up the street surviving on life-saving medical devices. <A> First, call up the power company and consult with them. <S> I gather you have a belief you're holding that says "surely it will take 6 months for them to reply". <S> Challenge that belief. <S> Make sure to mention the insulation failure on the wires. <S> If you can't reach them, give a call to the best electrician you can find and see what they think. <S> For one thing, maybe they can do it at a sane price. <S> Since you're saying "house", well, we can preclude New York City with its 208 wye since ConEd would be out there same-day. <S> That leaves the wild untamed world with its 230-to-ground, 400V wye service. <S> That stuff's not too bad, but still to be respected. <S> Above that, I'd call a pro. <S> I for one would never cut a cable, but would slide some shrink-tubing over it. <A> Though your question is how and not about people's recommendation what you should do, here's an opinion. <S> (Too long for a comment <S> so I posted as an answer.) <S> First, in anything you build, Safety First, and we can see you try to avoid the life threatening wires whilst you build, though <S> the contractors already said it's okay. <S> If they are wrong you are in risk. <S> If they are correct, and you still persist to cut the wires, you are still in risk. <S> So either way, it's risky. <S> Focus on your goal to stay safe, and remove yourself from the options. <S> Let the company do it for you, or as the other answers said, hire a professional. <S> Better stick with your plan, that is – to stay alive.
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Before attempting anything like this you should call them and ask what the procedure is for a temporary disconnect.
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Using receptacle mounting screws for ground connection I will soon be adding some outdoor wiring using weatherproof metal boxes and EMT conduit. I noticed when I was playing around with a multimeter that without a ground conductor between a receptacle and the box the receptacle ground terminal still read 0Ω to the box. I realized that the ground screw on the receptacle connects to the receptacle frame, which is fastened to the metal box, providing a ground pathway (as seen here ). If my EMT/metal boxes are grounded, do I need to pigtail ground conductors from the box to the receptacle, or can I use the mounting screws and frame to provide grounding? <Q> You cannot use the mounting screws as a grounding path. <S> However, you can use hard metal-metal contact between the receptacle yoke and the grounded steel box. <S> For this, the yoke mounting screws have to bottom all the way down hard. <S> Here's what doesn't work: the yoke doesn't bottom all the way because its ears are catching the edge of drywall or finish, which is the normal way receptacles are installed <S> there is paint on the box or yoke (make sure to mask it before rolling the walls!) <S> most receptacles come with the mounting screws "held captive" on the yoke by those little squares of paper/plastic. <S> Those are insulators and prevent good grounding. <S> Boxes or yokes with special spring contacts are only good if listed as such: i.e. their instructions specifically say that's OK. <S> It doesn't matter if the grounding path "meggers out" OK at the moment. <S> That could change over time, or as someone is pushing a plug in or pulling it out. <A> You have two options: <S> You can pigtail a ground from the box to the receptacle ground screw <A> With a metal box the box needs to be connected to the ground. <S> Make sure to use rain tight fittings and wire rated for wet locations on outside EMT conduit runs.
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You can use a "self-grounding" receptacle which has spring clips on the yoke to make sure that contact is made between the yoke, the screws, and the box.
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Can I remove ceiling joists without risking the integrity of my roof system? We have a 23x12ft room that we are looking at opening up the flat ceiling. The 2x6 rafters are parallel with the long side the the room and there is one beam (3 2x6s) that seems to be a rafter tie running this long length of the room. Looks to have a 2x6 coming down from the peak of the roof at the ridge board down to the beam. The ceiling joist 2x4s are running at right angles to the beam and rafters across the 12ft span of the room. These joists are below the beam and are tied to it by 2x4. We were told that the joists are not providing structural support and were merely for affixing the flat ceiling. We had hoped to remove these joists and wonder if the 23 ft beam of 3 sandwiched 2x6s (board seams are staggered) will have any sagging/structural issues if we did. Are there structural concerns with removing these perpendicular ceiling joists? There are collar ties at in the top third but no other rafter ties besides this beam. <Q> I believe that you're correct about the ceiling joists being entirely for cosmetic purposes. <S> The rafter tie keeps the walls from spreading, and it appears to be adequately suspended by the roof structure as a whole. <S> You're probably doing the rafter tie a favor by eliminating the ceiling joists from its bearing, and unless you add substantial weight back onto it <S> I don't have cause for concern. <S> All that said, I'm sitting here in Minnesota looking at your place in Washington through a peephole. <S> You really do need to get a qualified professional on site to make a more reliable assessment of the situation. <A> I have a structural background (somewhat) <S> and I don't get it. <S> There is no reason that the whole thing doesn't fail... <S> how'd they do that? <S> First, the existing 2x4 ceiling should not be able to span 12' and support the existing gypsum board without cracking due to extreme bending. <S> Second, the 2x4 roof joists should not be able to span the 23' with just roof ties (and you're even missing one). <S> So, according to my calculations, the 2x4 roof joists at 24" o.c. <S> Should only be able to span about 15' (and that's using the old cut framing dimensions). <S> Third, there is no reason the the walls are not bowing out due to the thrust the roof structure is placing on the top of the wall. <S> The downward thrust (when loaded with snow, etc.) will cause the flimsy 2x4 roof joists to deflect (bend) and push the wall out of alignment. <S> Having one strong-back is not sufficient to ties the walls together. <S> I just don't see how you can remove ALL the ceiling joists. <S> Maybe an alternative would be to keep every third or fourth ceiling joist and wrap it with gypsum board. <S> That would make the ceiling appear "open". <S> Great...now I'm going to be up all night trying to figure this one out. <A> First things first. <S> Get yourself a structural engineer or an architect. <S> Contractors might have 30 years of experience but all they've got is a "hunch", and what has worked in the past. <S> If you remove the ceiling joists, its like removing the bottom leg of a triangle. <S> without it, the weight on the roof will cause the rafters to flatten, particularly at the center of the span, and bow the wall out where the rafters connect to the wall plate, and ultimately fail. <S> The solution is to provide a ridge beam at the ridge, with columns within the wall to support it's ends. <S> The architect or engineer will determine its size, again, based on the loading (snow, wind, material). <S> Collar ties are not sufficient to withstand roof loads, and that is not their purpose. <S> You will also need to consider the insulation requirements, most likely about an R-30, which is about 12" thick for batt insulation, or 6" if using extruded (not expanded) polystyrene.
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Yeah, I know, the roof ties (and strong-back) are installed to hold the roof rafters from pushing the top of the wall out of plumb. A licensed professional works with your states actual loading criteria, and designs to it.
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Is denim insulation more inviting to packrats? I'm deciding what kind of insulation to use in a new detached home office. Packrats are a major problem in my area. It's a constant battle to keep them out of the floor insulation in my house. Is denim insulation more inviting than fiberglass to packrats and other pests? Or to put it another way, is fiberglass a deterrent? <Q> To add to the other answers; Mice seem to like fiberglass. <S> I have found nests in my grill, and under a rain barrel that were made from fiberglass they've managed to collect out of my house. <S> Mice have managed to get into my basement and nest in the fiberglass batts on the basement ceiling many times over the years. <S> I try to air seal the foundation sill area when I can. <S> I feel that if they can sense the warm air leaking they will try harder to find a way in. <S> PestBlock (mentioned by KCasper) is a new product. <S> I've bought a can. <S> I've been told that regular expanding foam is not something that rodents have trouble chewing through. <S> Another technique is to stuff steel wool in the crack and foam that in. <S> Rodents don't like chewing on steel wool. <A> You're going to mostly get anecdotes with this question, so here's mine. <S> If there's a way in, they'll get in, and they'll make a tunnel to where they want to be, and that's the end of the story. <S> That being the case, I'd think that some nice soft recycled Girbauds would tend to be more inviting. <S> It's all moot, though. <S> A hole is a hole. <S> Plan on something besides your insulation waging the battle against pests. <A> Only PestBlock spray foam is truly rodent resistant out of types of insulation. <S> That stuff is too bitter for anything to go through it. <S> It is also way to expensive to use for more than blocking holes. <S> http://greatstuff.dow.com/product/pestblock.htm <S> The only way to truly stop rodents is to use anti-rodent building techniques. <S> http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/rodentexclusion.asp
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Chipmunks and mice, the most common home invaders in my area, don't seem to be slowed down by fiberglass.
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Nema 6-15 to nema 5-15 (hot hot ground) Let me preface this by saying i did my research, i got an electric car and the charger is limited to 12A draw internally, but it is designed to handle both nema 6-15 and nema 5-15 specs. If you run it at 110 12A it will charge in 9 hours, if you run it at 220 12a it will charge in 4.5. The adapter already came with a nema 5-15 which i cannot change as it has a temperature sensor in it which i would like to keep, but if i send hot hot neutral through its nema 5-15 connector it would treat it as 6-15 and operate correctly. I already have a 2phase panel outdoor for my hot tub rated for 50A where the hot tub has a 30A breaker. I will be adding a 2nd 20 amp breaker for this. The question is as follows, should i run it into a nema 6-15 plug, then build a converter from 6-15 to 5-15, or simply use a 5-15 and wire it hot hot ground. I would be violating code, but adding in an adapter is pointless, the wiring is meant to handle 12 amps regardless of voltage, so i assume a 5-15 should handle 220v 12a without issues. What are your thoughts? <Q> Installed fixtures must be correct <S> Any receptacle which is installed as part of the building must be exactly what it says on the tin. <S> If you are provisioning 240V hot hot ground to the receptacle, and breakering it for 15A, it must be a NEMA 6-15. <S> Period . <S> The simple fact is, if you provision 240V to a NEMA 5, it will be a matter of time before someone plugs a 120V appliance into it . <S> You know the feeling, you're trying to get something done, you have a 5-15 plug in your hands and you search for the nearest receptacle your cord will reach. <S> Everyone else does the same thing. <S> And that's the problem. <S> Your rush to an immediate goal is no excuse. <S> A reasonable person will foresee that a miswired NEMA 5 will find a victim, just a matter of time. <S> An exacerbating factor is that you're intentionally refusing to pull a permit and get inspected because you know you'll flunk. <S> Just don't do it. <S> Seriously. <S> Not meaning to be a nag here, just there's a better way to do that thing. <S> The cheater is the way to go <S> None of this is legal. <S> But since it's not part of the building, the AHJ (building inspector) doesn't have nearly as much to say about it. <S> A 6" long homemade extension cord will send signals that makes it far less likely for an innocent person to have an accident. <S> First, there's no logical reason for a 6" extension cord to exist. <S> Second, it's obvious that the plug is weird, *presuming that you use a NEMA L6-15 locking type. <S> Also, label it clearly, and attach it securely to the charger with a cord coupler . <A> No matter what you do with what ever hacked adapter cables you try to kludge up <S> DO NOT WIRE UP AN OUTLET INCORRECTLY. <S> If you wired an outlet that is normally a service connection for 110-120VAC and made it source 220-240VAC you are just asking for long range trouble and risk. <S> Best case would be you would be the only one to use it and hopefully not forget and plug in something that blows up in your face making it <S> so you could never drive <S> said electrical vehicle again. <S> Just think of the liability you would have on your shoulders if someone else came along and used this kludged outlet and was killed or maimed. <S> It could be one of your kids for all you know. <A> It's not uncommon to use a voltage doubler circuit followed by a switch-mode power supply in a 120 V appliance that needs high current DC like a battery charger. <S> This internal wiring looks almost the same in 240V input mode and 120V input mode <S> The voltage double circuit is a bridge rectifier followed by 2 capacitors in series across the DC output. <S> In the doubler configuration the center tap of the capacitors is bridged to the neutral of the 120V AC input. <S> This then provides 360V DC to the switch-mode power supply. <S> To change this over to 240V input you need to cut the link between the neutral an the center tap of the capacitors. <S> If you don't then you will be feeding 700V DC to components that are only rated to 400V.
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The charger may need to be modified internally to adjust to the higher input voltage.
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Shim Tub Surround for Cement Board This has probably been asked a million times. Had a new tub installed today. The tub straps will interfere with my Hardiebacker, which I had planned to run right down to the top of the tub flange. So I am wondering the best way to handle it. Should I: Hog-out the back of the Hardiebacker where it will hit the straps, sothat it rests squarely on top of the tub flange. Add furring stripsto the studs. Just place the HB on the straps and accept the slightout-of-plumb condition. This is the situation before, albeit withdrywall I guess I could sister-in some new studs, but that would entail drilling and re-running the ROMEX. Thanks for any advice. <Q> I've never seen a tub with brackets like that. <S> Usually the lip of the tub gets secured directly to the framing. <S> What brand/model of tub is that? <S> Can you find info online? <S> Many tub manufacturers have installations instructions that indicate how things like backerboard should be applied. <S> If you look at this installation manual for a Kohler tub <S> it tells you to use 1/4" furring strips to extend the backer board over the lip. <S> If you can find the manual for your tub I'd go with what they recommend. <S> If you can't, or the brackets aren't part of a normal tub install <S> I'd contact the manufacturer of the backer board to see if it's okay to chisel out some recesses for the brackets. <S> If you want the backer to go over the lip use furing strips and chisel out some space for the brackets. <S> You're still going to have an issue with securing the bottom of the backer to framing since the brackets will prevent the screws from going in. <S> I'm not sure the brackets were supposed to be there to be honest. <S> Also see this post on using some sort of waterproofing over the backerboard <S> What are the pros and cons of adding a vapor barrier behind shower backer board? <A> Seems to me the screw heads on the tabs are the issue. <S> Drill new holes and use ring shank very flat head nails. <S> Try to get the tabs as flat to the stud as possible and call it good. <A> I'm assuming since you're putting up HardieBacker you are installing tile of some kind. <S> You could either get flatter head screws and then install the HB with the slight out of plumb condition <S> that can be hidden when installing the tile, latte the studs flush with the tub, Or you can take a good sharp chisel notch the studs so everything is flush. <A> I'd probably just taper things out with several thicknesses of shim above the straps, ending three feet or so up from the tub. <S> You'll never see it in your finished wall. <S> Otherwise I think I'd be pulling the straps one at a time and chiseling out a bit of the stud to allow them to lie flush. <S> Two easy ways to do so: <S> Using a sharp chisel, drive downward from slightly above the strap location. <S> Once you've shaved out some wood, cut it off flush with the tub flange. <S> Use a sharp spade bit and drill a series of holes into the stud face. <S> If you orient them well you can clear all the wood you need to for the strap. <S> Be sure to protect your tub from damage due to slips. <S> A chisel or spade bit will ruin your day if it hits the tub.
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Different sources including this Family Handyman article on Backerboard around tub indicate that you should stop the backerboard 1/4" from the top of the tub lip and the tile should canteliver over it to 1/4" above the tub.
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How is it possible for pressure to build up in a water heater? Context is North America (Canada). Water heaters are always equipped with a pressure/temperature safety relief valve (no argument that safety precautions are a good thing). My question is: how is it possible for the water heater to build up pressure when any expansion could simply drive the small amount of water backward into the incoming supply? Is there a check valve somewhere to prevent back flow? So far as I know, there is no such thing built into the water heater... am I wrong? Is there one built into the water meter? <Q> <A> The short answer is that when you heat cold water it will expand. <S> Even without bringing it to a boil. <S> It's about 2% in volume from 20°C to 70°C. <S> The typical installation of a boiler has a backflow preventer on the feed side. <S> So that when you open the cold faucet you don't suddenly get hot water. <S> Those safety valves are to relieve pressure by dumping the contents into the surrounding area when it starts boiling to avoid a rupture. <S> These contents are boiling hot and not something you want to deal with often. <S> Instead there is an expansion tank to absorb the expected growth in volume without letting the pressure increase too much and possibly trigger a dump or damage the fittings. <A> Historically the most common arrangement was a tank and pump in the basement with a foot valve in the well. <S> Even with a deep well or submerged pump <S> you'd want a check valve to prevent the water tank from raining back into the well. <S> Long story short, no backing up into wells. <S> Let's go to the other extreme and consider municipal supplies, which largely depend on gravity and towers for pressure. <S> A 200' drop gives you a cozy 86.8 psi, which is why pressure reducing valves are common. <S> Not to mention cities that require backflow prevention to keep the water supply uncontaminated. <S> You really want the pressure relief valve in the city too, not just the country. <S> You have overlooked one other thing though. <S> A "small amount of water" is a large amount of steam. <S> If a plumbing problem left the water heater half-empty <S> you'd have a boiler rather than a heater and the expansion would no longer be slow or minor. <S> Safety aside <S> , there's also something to be said for designing a particular point of failure into any system. <S> PEX, I believe, is rated for 80 PSI at 200F which makes it a relatively poor option for carrying pressurized hot water back through the "cold" supply. <S> Even with copper pipes you'd probably rather have the relief valve open than have <S> your cold water loop find its own relief valve, such as the icemaker. <S> Basically the relief valve opening is much less of a mess than a random pipe or fitting on the supply side failing. <S> On top of that the relief valve will close once the pressure decreases again, where as the broken pipe will just keep filling up your house with city water pressure.
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Either an actual check valve or something that acts like one (such as a Pressure Reducing Valve) are fairly common on cold water supplies.
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Replaced Door Knobs, How to Fill Extra Space I replaced some old door knobs with new ones. The doors are perfectly fine. The new plates that went into the door frame are not a perfect fit. There's gap on one side of it that goes down into the old hole. I was thinking of filling the gap with wood fill or wood putty, although I'm not sure what the difference is. Is this the right approach? <Q> Now that you have posted a right nice picture of the new striker plate installation let me comment on this. <S> Then a carefully cut and fitted new piece of wood is glued into place to make the door frame whole again. <S> The new striker plate would be installed over the new wood region with the appropriate blind depth recess holes made behind it to permit the door catch and deadbolt enter the frame area beyond the striker plate. <S> Note that it is not conventional practice to mount the striker plate on top of the surface of the door frame as you showed in the picture. <S> The normal process is that the outline of the plate is marked and then some wood chisel work is done to recess the plate by an amount equal to its thickness so that its surface is even with the door frame surface. <A> You can fill that void between the strike plate and door stop with Durhams Rock Hard Putty. <S> It's a powder that you mix with water. <S> Fill that area so the putty is higher than the jamb surface and you will be able to sand it down to smooth when dry. <S> A bit of primer over the putty <S> and you'll be ready for paint. <A> So add wood putty because you can always chip out when you have needs to adjust striker due to inevitable heat/cool expansion/contraction. <A> Most locksets are adjustable from about 1 3/8" up to 1 3/4" thick doors. <S> (See screw mechanism in center of unit.) <S> If yours is not or door is less than 1 3/8" thick, the piece of door hardware you're looking for is called a "door rose". <S> It fits between the knob and the door and comes in various shapes, thicknesses and finishes. <S> Google: rose hardware door with lock <S> If you can't find it on your own, try Emtek.com. <S> Very reputable, but bad website. <S> I can't ever find a thing. <S> Call them... <S> excellent service.
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The craftsman way to fix this is to cut out a section of the door frame where the old striker plate and its recess holes are located (plus some extra).
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New replacement windows: what happens when I change thickness of exterior siding? Can I order/do they sell windows that can accommodate changing the wall thickness at a later date? I want to replace some windows in my house, but - at some later point - I also want to re-side the exterior. Right now, the house has vinyl over 1" rigid, and I plan to do cedar shakes over 2" rigid. Will I accommodate the windows simply by installing a deeper sill and trim on the exterior? Or do I have to remove the window, install my rigid, install a new nailing flange on the window, and then add a deeper stool and trim on the interior? Is there a particular type of replacement window I need to order? If so, what's the terminology for this type(s) of window? Yes, I'm quite aware that the easiest thing to do would be to do the siding and the windows at the same time, but that's not an option for my house right now. <Q> You don't need to move your windows. <S> What you do need to do is be sure to maintain a proper drain plane. <S> Flashing tape, metal flashings, a deeper sill, and caulk (the latter used sparingly) should handle the situation if done well. <S> It's a bit difficult to say more without specifics. <S> Post a photo if you like. <A> (Like a picture frame.) <S> This will allow you to remove either / tie into either at a later date. <S> Also, if you have a narrow window flange and the future siding will be thicker than the window flange, then the trim around the window will protrude out past the window flange, but this is ok. <S> What's not ok is having end grain exposed out beyond the window flange. <A> If you are buying a "Replacement Window" they usually depend on the existing window jambs, sill, flashing, etc. <S> You tear out the existing sashes and fit your custom measured unit into the existing frame. <S> That keeps you away from worrying (at the time) about your siding issues. <S> If you are replacing a window by buying a "new construction window" it will come with a new frame, and you have to tear out the window down to the studs, drywall, and sheathing/siding interface. <S> Then you will have to fit that frame in the opening. <S> You'll have to work your way under the siding and properly flash and maintain your drain plane. <S> (as isherwood says).
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If you're replacing windows and siding at a different time, consider installing trim around each window.
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Joining two 10mm twin and earth cables I've had an electrician install some new wiring for me for our new electric car charger. It is 10mm twin and earth. He's had to join two of these together, he hasn't fully finished yet, but I'm wondering if the join he has made is sufficient. I've attached a photo of his work. The join is inside a void under our stairs behind some plasterboard. It will be taking a current of 16A for approximately 9 hours at a time. In the future our new car will be taking 30A. I'm a little concerned that this tape job isn't right. Any advice would be great. Edit: Here is picture without the tape <Q> I've never seen a qualified electrician leave twisted and taped up wires in 30 years on the job. <S> And that is because it is a ridiculous way to form a connection. <S> The tape will degrade over time and turn into a sticky mess. <S> Put the connection into a proper junction box rated for the job, they cost pennies. <S> p.s. <S> I could nearly live with it, if the wires were soldered and then the whole thing put into a box, but even then the tape won't last forever. <A> Ultimately if you're not happy then ask the electrician what other options you have. <S> Personally (I'm not a professional) <S> It looks a mess and there should be a junction box you can use to make that look a lot better. <A> AFIK normally one uses a receptacle in a box for supplying power to recharge an electric vehicle. <S> The receptacle and the plug will be rated for the current that the charger draws. <S> The boxes are not rated for current, but must be of sufficient size to meet the fill limit given the wires and the receptacle. <S> But if you would need a larger box, then enlarging the hole would be simple.
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In practice, I would bet that a sufficiently deep box would meet the requirements and would fit in the existing hole in your wall. The vehicle charger plugs into that receptacle. But don't be afraid to question what other options you have.
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How to drill plastic without the bit "grabbing" it? I am attempting to use a drill press to drill a 13mm hole in the ends of a small electronics enclosures (a Hammond case). The wall of the case is about 2mm thick and made of ABS plastic. Started off by drilling a 5mm pilot hole and followed it up carefully and slowly with the 13mm bit. Immediately the box was grabbed by the bit and the workpiece was ruined (split down the side). After massaging my bruised thumb I realised that I need a better way to do this. Reckon I'd have no better luck with a hand-cranked drill or a cordless drill. My available tools are severely limited and there's no hope of getting any budget to buy new tools (not for a small project like this). I've got a decent selection of drill bits and a small, fixed-speed drill press and not much else. I did consider just drilling a 5mm hole and simply reaming it up to the 15mm hole we actually need but this is a real pain in the neck. What can I do to prevent this grabbing problem? <Q> Sandwich the workpiece between two pieces of wood, clamp it all together, clamp the whole assembly so that it can't go spinning off into oblivion, then drill through the whole thing. <S> You'll also want to use really light pressure when drilling through the plastic, but don't go so slow that you melt the stuff. <S> If you have some, you could use a step drill instead of a twist drill. <S> However, you're still going to want to properly brace the material. <S> If it's within your budget, a drill bit designed to drill plastics might work. <S> However, you're still going to have to secure the workpiece while drilling. <S> I'd also recommend using a wood backer, to support the piece as you drill. <A> Considering how many times this type of question has been asked, I'm not sure why it wasn't closed as a duplication. <S> Reference at least one other posting: <S> Sandwiching the material will not prevent grabbing when using a conventional bit. <S> The step bit may also grab and crack is used incorrectly, that is inappropriate speed for the material, but it has a much smaller chance of doing so than using a conventional steel cutting bit. <A> However this requires precise positioning of the work over an existing hole (endmills can't cut in their center since it has zero velocity), which brings us back to the crux of the problem: positioning and clamping. <S> When I have several same workpieces, I have often built a tray by nailing scrap to a piece of plywood, that the piece drops into snug. <S> And then clamp the tray to the drill press. <S> If I had a CNC router handy <S> I would just mill the tray to the piece's exact dimensions. <S> Feeds and speeds will be everything, otherwise it will gall or melt. <S> I occasionally use endmills to square the bottoms of holes in wood, as it is impossible to cut past where the drill bit tip stopped, without feeds and speeds feeling really wrong. <A> Put it in a bowl of boiling water for a minute take it out and dry it and immediately drill it - it will not crack <A> When I work with plastic boxes I find it best to start with a small pilot hole just like you did <S> but I then use a hand tool that looks like the following. <S> It works very well at shaving out the hole to the diameter needed. <S> It is amazing how fast and easy this tool works in the thin plastic walls of a project box. <S> Some hand tools like this will come to more of a point allowing them to start in a smaller hole. <S> The one pictured above may not be optimally pointed but does demonstrate another desirable feature. <S> A tool with more flutes will cut a smoother round hole.
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Yet another plastic drilling question Use a drill bit made to drill plastic. If you have a bunch of in between size bits, you can simply start small and slowly work your way up to the final size. Adding support behind the piece is also a good idea. I was going to propose using an endmill .
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How do I feed an ethernet cable through a doorway without damaging the door or wall? My wife and I recently moved into a new apartment. We've had it for just a few days. When our internet company came to hook up our landline, I had them hook it into one of our bedrooms and set up my home office. Now my wife wants to set up her home office. She'd like an Ethernet cable connection off our internet router, but there isn't enough space for both of us in the one bedroom - so I'd like to feed the Ethernet cable into the adjoining bedroom. Since we don't own the place, I want to feed this cable into the other room without causing permanent damage to the wall or door - if I need to keep my door open a small crack, that's fine, but if possible I'd like to keep it mostly shut sometimes. How can I feed a connecting internet cable from the router in my office to the adjoining room so that my wife can have an Ethernet cable connection, while causing minimal permanent damage to the two doors and wall between the two rooms? I'll try to upload a picture of the walls/doors later, but they essentially form a "Y" shape so that the two doors open out into the hallway of our apartment, with the bottom of the "Y" being the wall between them. The walls themselves are wood, but it's fairly thick wall, and the doors are old wooden doors. The flooring is hardwood. I'll try and get a better picture of the framework for the door later today. <Q> You can buy flat Ethernet cables. <S> I'm betting you could get one under the door and still allow it to be closed. <S> Another option is a powerline Ethernet adapter. <S> This is a set of modules that plug into your power outlets and allow you to transmit network signals over them. <S> You run a patch cable from the router to a module in the same room, then plug in a second module in the room the second PC is in. <S> Also, if the rooms are next to each other, look around ducts, pipes that might pass through, etc. <S> You might get lucky and find a gap big enough to fish a cable through. <S> Another option is to install low voltage boxes in the drywall with RJ45 jacks. <S> Wire the jacks together, color to color, and use patch cables from the router to jack one, and from jack two to the second PC. <S> And lastly, have you considered WiFi? <A> If the room is adjoining, drilling a hole big enough for an Ethernet cable may not be considered "major damage". <S> If one of my tenants asked me if they could do it <S> If you DO drill through a wall, make sure you don't drill into a power line; if you're unsure, it's better not to do it. <S> If you don't want to drill, you can get a flat cable as suggested and also run a thin plastic conduit with a cover on it. <S> Many of them have double sided tape so you can run them around a door or along a floor <S> and when you leave, you just pull them off the wall. <S> The double stick tape doesn't do any major damage. <A> The cable will then run along the wall in the first bedroom, around the door jamb, along the wall in the hallway towards the second bedroom (if any), around the door jamb of the second bedroom, then along the wall to your wife's computer. <S> Whether you can push the cable into the crack, depends on how firmly the carpet is pressing the wall and the size/shape of the ethernet cable.
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If the floor in and between the two bedrooms is carpeted, you can probably push the ethernet cable into the "crack" between the carpet and wall. Just leave them when you move and it will look like any other jack in the wall. I would say yes and consider it normal wear and tear, unless the hole was like 1 inch in diameter or something.
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Why did a bulge appear after I mounted a wine rack to my wall? I'm new to 'DIY-ing' and this evening I mounted a wooden wine rack to my wall. I used a stud finder, made my marks and when I drilled the hole on the left hand side it felt like.. nothing.. no stud. I shifted the drilled a little to the left and tried again, still nothing. I tried once more, shifted the drill a little more left and I got the stud. No issues with the stud on the right hand side. Hung the wine rack and it looks perfect. Pretty sturdy too. A couple hours later a 'bubble' appeared.. Its weird, it looks like a bubble from when water is trapped behind paint but when I touched it, it was hard, almost like the drywall raised, but only in that one area on the left hand side. Does anyone know what this could be? All help is greatly appreciated. Thank-you. <Q> When you mounted your rack, the drywall was pressed tight and the protruding screw forced the surface out. <S> The fix is do drive the screw in (through the joint compound) and repair the damage. <S> Even if you remove your wine rack the outline of the bulge will probably remain visible. <S> Fortunately, you have smooth walls. <S> I'd pull down the rack, run the screw in tight (remove it or drive it through with a hammer and set if it spins free), cut out the loose material, and skim with drywall joint compound. <S> It will probably take several applications, with dry time in between, due to shrinkage. <S> Sand, paint, and hang your rack again. <S> Of course, you could also drive the screw in, then raise your wine rack a bit and pretend it never happened. :) <A> The drywall sheet has been compromised, trying to get the bubble or pop to set back down will not work. <S> Drywall is crumbly in the middle so once the integrity of a piece is compromised it is shot. <S> Kinda like cardboard. <S> Take a 6” knife w/ a fair ant of compound on it and set one corner of the knife on the edge and skim in a circle around it giving you a “ramp”. <S> Let dry and repeat until it appears flat. <S> Overall painting and drywall is an illusion <S> no wall or surface is actually flat- <S> it just appears that way <A> I agree that's a pretty big "nail pop". <S> Be careful you might have tightened an intensional air gap that was a judgement call by the original hanger. <S> Reasons for this would be like if there was a build up of items like cut off or capped piping, metal strong ties and nails, bolts, or steel plate type supports or even one of those nasty door bell transformer things you always see half buried in taping mud in the wierdest spot in a garage or closet or something. <S> I hang dry wall for a living <S> and I would fix it by removing the popped out part and float over it real good with an excessive amount of joint compound and make it flat and even by sanding the excess down. <S> But becareful adding screws around the area. <S> If it's more than a nail pop it could keep happening over the area. <S> It's not likely but it is possible. <S> You might try and see if the popped out area seems magnetic at all. <S> If it is a nail pop the nail would reveal a small tiny area of magnetism or be too deep to react with the magnet. <S> Like someone suggested you could always hide it by adjusting your racks location. <S> It is more work than it's worth most of the time <S> but it depends on the resident and the circle of friends who might see it really. <S> In other words if it's in a dining or game room... <S> Let it be. <S> If it was in the White House or fancy man cave.... <S> Fix it.
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If the whole area seems to yield magnetic areas then it's more than a nail pop and anything could be under there. You have a textbook screw pop there, where the drywall hanger didn't run the screw in snug, leaving a gap behind the drywall. The best and easiest fix is to skim around that bubble to feather it out or hide it.
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How should I connect my new motion-detecting light switch? I bought a Legrand RRW600U motion-detecting light switch and I could use some help wiring it to my bathroom light. It's a renovation so I have complete access to the ceiling, wall, and floor framing. The switch has three wires in the back (black, red, and yellow) and a single green(ish) screw. The bathroom light has three wires: black, white, and bare copper. I am installing new, 14/2 non-metallic sheathed cable to connect the service panel to the switch to the light. Both the printed instructions and the only YouTube video I could find seem to assume that the electrical circuit passes through the light before terminating in the switch. I would like my circuit to pass through the switch and terminate in the light. How would I wire the switch to the light in that setup? <Q> Run cable from the panel to the switch and another from the switch to the light. <S> Connect the supply cable black to the switch's black wire with a wirenut. <S> Connect together the white wires with a wirenut , not connecting to the switch. <S> Connect together the the green wires along with a separate short piece of green or bare wire with a wirenut. <S> This short wire goes to the green screw. <S> The yellow wire is not connected; cover the end with a wirenut. <S> At the light, connect black to black, white to white and green to ground. <A> On most all household type switches (domestic switches) used in 120/240 volt scenarios, the black lead at the switch is almost always your common hot feed and the red would be used for the switchleg connection going to your light fixture <A> I cleaned up the diagram from the directions: <S> Neutral passes through (White to white wire) <S> Line (Black) connects to black on the switch Red from the switch connects to black wire to the light <S> Yellow from the switch is not connected, just capped off with a wire nut Ground everything <S> Green wire on switch <S> Ground must be connected to ground screw on all junction boxes Ground on all wires also connected together
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Connect the light cable's black wire to the red wire with a wirenut.
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Sump pump size and reliabilty for crawlspace Still trying to sort out the different advice from crawlspace drainage vendors. The least expensive fellow insists a single 1/3 HP pump pumps out plenty of volume, and that only a single pump is needed (w/battery backup) because they're so reliable. He also said he stopped using sock filters because he found the socks themselves were much more likely to clog up than the perf pipe. The other, far more expensive operations, are pushing for a 3-pump system and insist a sock is mandatory. Hard to know who to believe. Thanks. <Q> If you have any fear of high water table of flooding you always need a backup on your sump pump. <S> There are some options to safely knowing your sump pump system is always working such as sensors that send updates to your phone, however having the peace of mind that a backup pump instills is nice. <S> Someone more experienced will need to add information about the sock. <A> Back ups are always a good idea, but installing an alarm sensor is an easy 'catch all' solution. <S> Backups can fail, but installing a sump pump alarm ensures that regardless of number of pumps, batteries etc. <S> if something fails you'll know about it. <S> This is an example - http://www.absoluteautomation.com/sumpspot-wifi-sump-pump-alarm-for-texting/ <A> One of the problems I have encountered with sumps in crawlspaces is that they tend to collect sediment much more than basement ones. <S> Crawlspaces are much more difficult to work in than basements, so <S> installation details such as fabric-wrapping and insuring there is clean #57 stone around the entire drain pipe <S> tend to get neglected. <S> The result is a lot of sediment build-up in the bottom of the pit itself. <S> Then the pit dries out, sediment layer hardens, and process repeats itself during the next heavy rain. <S> Even if you have a stand-off at the bottom, it quickly fills up. <S> This is where a much better sump pump itself comes into play, as it can handle powering through this sediment (within reason). <S> The 1/6 HP pumps in particular are extremely susceptible to this type of failure, since they are too weak and their impellers are terrible. <S> I have seen two of these pump installations fail in the past two years for just this reason. <S> Both of them were Home Depot low-end models. <S> If you feel this may be a problem in your installation, you may consider investing in a higher end model (Goulds, etc) capable of handling this type of abuse.
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If you are going to theoretically rely on your backup someday when the main pump fails, be sure to buy a backup that pumps a reasonable amount of water.
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Sink P-Trap doesn't line up with Drain pipe How can I get my sink drain lined up properly. The drain coming out of the wall is welded together and it doesn't have the connector that catches the threaded side of the p-trap. It's' also about an inch short from the p-trap. Thanks for the help guys. <Q> OK as a temp fix you could: cut the existing metal tube, leave at least a couple inches from the blobbed up old connection. <S> clean the outside of the tube as well as you can, I would probably use steel wool. <S> use an 1 1/2" slip-joint coupler: connect the new trap with the arm it came with, into the coupler. <A> The cluster- bleep solder job at the end of the chromed pipe should not be there at all. <S> If you opt to do it yourself, be sure to wrap the other legs of the Tee with damp rags to keep them from becoming unsoldered as you remove the middle leg. <A> If you want to avoid getting into the metal pipe at all, just put in a horizontal run immediately off the sink basket, like you'd see with a double sink. <S> I did exactly that with my utility sink recently to accommodate a poorly-located wye at the stack. <S> Parts are cheap and readily available. <S> Imagine this scenario without the disposal branch on the right: <S> Turn down again into your trap. <S> This will give you much more flexibility to align with your metal pipe. <S> The trap will come into it from one side or the other, depending on how you prefer your layout.
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You or a plumber will be unsoldering that mess (possibly one joint back, at the Tee) and replacing it with the right parts - which are a compression fitting similar to the one you have on the trap, allowing a proper slip-joint adjustable positioning of the replacement for the chromed pipe, with the correct nut to join to the trap.
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Is a home with concrete walls more likely to propagate noise between floors? I have a house and it has three floors. All of these floors and walls are made of concrete. So my question is, whenever the third floor makes noises, e.g. noises from music, carpentry tools like drills, or noises that are loud enough to hear, would the people from second floor able to hear noises from third floor given that the thing between/separates them is concrete? Or maybe worse, people from first floor? Thank you all! <Q> When thinking about sound there are three factors: absorption, reflection and transmission [ 1 ]. <S> Reflection leads to reverberation and echos. <S> Transmission means the sound gets through and it is like the wall is not there. <S> Absorption is where the sound "magically" disappears. <S> It doesn't get reflected back nor does it make it through. <S> Painted and plastered concrete is even more reflective and less transmissive [ 2 ]. <S> Depending on the sound level and frequency, painted concrete floors and walls will prevent someone in the next room from hearing the sound. <S> If you had a perfectly sealed concrete room with someone yelling at 100 dB, outside the room it would sound like a quiet conversation of about 50 dB. <S> The reverb in the concrete room would be awful, but you could try and treat this with some soft low density material. <S> To directly answer your question, you will likely be able to hear the music and tools downstairs. <S> If you replace the concrete with a different less dense material (e.g., wood), the sounds will get louder. <A> Concrete is a very rigid material and conveys sound fairly well. <S> In most constructions, this is ameliorated by covering the inner structures with softer, more flexible materials. <S> This includes wooden studding filled with insulating material and interior wallboard. <S> Floors can be covered with rugs or a wooden surface that is raised up from the concrete, often with insulating material below the surface. <S> How noisy and how problematic is very personal, and other factors will also come into play, such as the character and activities of the occupants (kids and parrots are notoriously noisier). <A> Best soundproofing is accomplished by using resilient channels such as the RSIC-1 by Pac International. <S> This method requires a bit of depth availability, though, so won't work in all instances. <S> As usual, a lot depends on the budget and how much of a priority soundproofing is. <S> In the real world trade-offs are a necessary compromise.
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Concrete is a rigid and dense material meaning it reflects sound well and does not transmit or absorb sound. There are other options that are proven, such as a double framed 2x4 walls with the studs offset and conventional fiberglass "weaved" between the studs.
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Is this pipe in my basement floor intended for radon mitigation? This pipe emerges from the concrete slab floor in a corner of my house's full basement. I believe it's a 4" polyethylene sewer pipe (narrow walls, black interior, white exterior). I can't tell if it's perforated or not below the surface. As you can see from the picture it goes down 4 feet. From that point it bends and appears to penetrate horizontally through the adjacent frost wall. (I know this from fiddling with a tape measure and a flashlight.) When I uncapped it, I noticed that air seemed to be blowing out of the pipe into the house, and I wondered if it was connected to either of the mystery pipes that emerge from the ground at opposite corners on the outside of my house. I eventually convinced myself that the pipe is connected to the nearer of the two exterior pipes. (I did this by putting a vacuum down the pipe inside the house and noticing that the nearer exterior pipe was sucking air when I turned on the vacuum.) This is the layout: Various contractors at the house have speculated about the pipe's purpose. Theories include: It functioned temporarily during construction, after the house's electricity was connected, to run electrical wires from the house to a trailer outside that needed electricity. (The people who built the house lived in a temporary trailer outside while the house was under construction.) It's for an illegal basement sink that would drain directly into the ground instead of running out to the septic system. It's for radon reduction. A fan needs to be added above the interior pipe to pull air from beneath the basement floor, inside the frost wall. (But if so, why does it vent outside? Also, it seems to go through the frost wall immediately. I don't believe there is any perforated pipe beneath the slab inside the frost wall.) It's for passive radon reduction. The air from beneath the basement floor, inside the frost wall, is intended to vent outside. (But if so, why would the pipe come up through the floor into the basement at all? And again, there doesn't seem to be much perforated pipe inside the frost wall.) The exterior corner pipes were intended for roof gutters to drain into. (But if so, why plumb one through the frost wall and up into the basement?) I am about to finish the basement room, and I intend to wall off access to the pipe. But I would like to know what it's for before I lose access to it forever. <Q> Yes, your area is known for radon and it <S> It looks like pipe <S> is the rough-in for a radon system. <S> We also provide a series of pipes in the ground around the exterior of the building too. <S> Usually the two systems are not connected, but work in tandem. <S> The exterior pipe and gravel provide an inlet for air, so the interior pipe and gravel can exhaust the air under the building. <S> However, the exterior gravel needs to be "connected" to the interior gravel (gravel under the building,) so air can be drawn through the gravel under building to purge the area. <S> However, the interior solid pipe (not perforated) needs to be extended through the attic and connected to an exhaust fan. <S> (Often the interior pipe is extended through the attic/roof without an exhaust fan. <S> If tests show radon has decreased, then we never install the exhaust fan.) <A> I'm sure that you've walled that in by now... Would the general location of that pipe be a good spot for a wood or pellet stove? <S> My speculation is that pipe layout may be for a 'cold air intake' for a wood stove. <S> The benefit of having a cold air intake for a wood stove in any home is that the air that goes out the chimney has to get into the house from somewhere (through electrical receptacles, around windows and doors, etc.) <S> ; if piped directly from the outside the air can pass through the wood stove without creating negative pressure in the house and pulling cold air directly into the living space. <A> First, I must compliment your diligence and documentation. <S> You'd most likely make an excellent engineer. <S> Given the location of the exterior pipes, one would be led to believe it was for connecting downspouts to. <S> It appears in the pictures to be "thinwall" sewer and drain pipe, as opposed to the more durable Schedule 40 pipe normally used in residential plumbing. <S> With that being said, it looks as though all 3 of the stubouts are of the same pipe, and were placed during construction. <S> It is extremely unlikely they were intended for radon mitigation...especially if the pipe isn't perforated. <S> The thing that doesn't make a great deal of sense to me is that the connected pipe in the basement goes 4 feet deeper for whatever reason. <S> If the terrain outside is level, this would put the lateral depth of that inside pipe around 10-12' lower than the exterior ones? <S> Why? <S> Even if it were a cleanout to theoretically auger a clogged downspout line, why make it 4' <S> deep? <S> Is there some really strange terrain around the outside of the house that would require this?
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When we install radon piping, we install a series of perforated pipes embedded into gravel in the crawl space or under a slab-on-grade floor. The reason the two pipes seem to be connected is that the two gravel systems are connected. When installed in mobile homes wood stoves must be fed by outside air because the mobile home is supposedly 'so tight' relative to air leaking in. However, I am unfamiliar with that ABS-looking black interior of the pipe, and the "rings" that appear on the exterior, as if it's some sort of hybrid.
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Where is the tandem breaker located? We added a sunroom back in the 2009 and the breaker panel was full so the electrician installed a tandem breaker.I am looking at the diagram for our breaker box, and wondering if he installed the breaker in the slot marked 3 in the diagram, or whether he installed it in the slot marked 5-6 in the diagram. Please see the attached pictures.The reason that I am asking is that I intend to install a couple of additional tandem breakers, but I want to understand the numbering scheme.Thanks! <Q> To answer the question stated: slot 3 has the tandem (better called "double-stuff" to borrow a term from Harper on this site) breaker in it. <S> The problem you have is that whoever installed it wasn't paying attention, and installed the tandem in a slot (3) where tandems aren't allowed as per the wiring diagram, which violates the panel's listing. <S> Swapping the regular breaker in 5/6 with the tandem in 3 will fix this rather easily, though. <S> (What the diagram says is that slots 1-4 cannot be used for tandem or quadruplex i.e. "double stuff" breakers, while the rest of the slots can , although to install tandems on the right side of the panel in the tandem-capable slots you need to use quadruplex breakers due to the 240V circuits there.) <A> What are the additional circuits used for in the sunroom--some lights and some 15-A receptacles? <A> The tandem breaker is indeed in slot 3. <S> A tandem breaker simply allows you to connect two breakers to a single bus terminal. <S> This means that both circuits are on the same leg of the service, and so can only supply 120 volt loads. <S> The other breaker you're talking about, is a double pole breaker. <S> A double pole breaker takes up two bus terminals, and so is connected to both legs of the service. <S> Connecting to both legs allows you to power 120 and/or 240 volt loads (dryers, ranges, etc.).
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If I correctly understand the meaning of "tandem" breaker, the only one I see is in slot 3.
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What does this lever do near my gas heater? I am not entirely sure what this big duct work is for.Its not the exhaust, because im sure the exhaust is the smaller duct on the gar left side (exiting form the enter image description heretop). The big duct as a lever, which i know is to open/close the valve inside the duct. The question is, what is this duct for?And should i be keeping the valve opened or closed? This is the valve lever: <Q> It's a "damper". <S> It can be manually set (open or closed) depending on quantity of air needed. <S> During the design of the HVAC system, duct sizes are determined based on size and location of rooms they serve...kind of a best guess. <S> Once the system (ducts) are installed, the quantity of air can be adjusted by opening or closing these dampers. <S> Often we put these dampers on "fresh air" intake ducts. <S> However, they're still used to adjust the amount of outside air. <S> (We usually start at 10% of the total air required.) <S> In residential construction we usually don't have fresh air intake ducts, because of air leakage around doors and windows. <S> This damper appears to be on the "return air" duct. <S> Keeping the damper "full open", uses the maximum amount of return air. <A> The return duct is located under the heater. <S> Your finger is pointing at a damper on the duct that supplies heated air for some part of the house. <S> It's worth noting that is a very poorly designed and inefficient duct configuration, wrapping a full 180 degrees around one of the other return ducts. <A> Parallel to the pipe is fully open, perpendicular to the pipe is mostly closed (there is about a quarter inch gap all around the damper).
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It is a damper to regulate how much air goes through the duct.
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Patching a Small Hole in Drywall I have a small hole (2" x 1") in my drywall. The problem is that it is very close to a work box, so the smallest patch I can find it 4" x 4". What can I do to patch this hole? <Q> Using a level, and straight edge, draw a tight rectangle around the hole. <S> Using a razor blade, or drywall saw, cut a clean hole. <S> A saw will allow you to remove most of the material, and the razor will cut it cleanly. <S> Then you can use the hole as a template to cut out the patch. <S> Before the patch can be installed, you will need to install a backer board to prevent the patch from falling inside of the wall. <S> You can use just about any piece of wood as long as it is thick enough to hold a drywall screw without splitting. <S> The wood needs to be long enough to be securely attached to the existing drywall on 2 opposite sides for strength. <S> The screws must be at least an inch away from the edge of the hole so it does not crumble. <S> You can also put a screw in the middle of the backer board prior to installation to give you something to hold onto while it is being installed. <S> Then screw the patch to the backer board to hold it in place. <S> You can then clean up the edges of the drywall pieces to fix any imperfections. <S> Use drywall compound to fill in the cracks, and cover up the screw heads. <S> Keep this coat very thin, and just put in enough to fill in the voids. <S> Let this dry, and then tape the edges with drywall tape. <S> After this, you can skim coat the whole area to blend in the patch. <A> My suggestion is NOT to use a mesh patch, and instead make the hole slightly larger by carefully enlarging the existing hole to a clean, rectangular shape (as explained in the above answer.) <S> However, instead of using wood to back-board the patch, simply cut the dry-wall at an angle (front-to-back) so that the inner hole is slightly smaller than the outer hole . <S> [You do this by holding your cutting tool at an angle relative to the wall instead of perpendicular to the wall.] <S> When you cut your repair drywall, cut it the same way, making the outside portion of the plug wider than the inside portion. <S> After you have it 'close' to the right size... <S> test fit it again and again, until it fits in, and removes out, snuggly. <S> Lastly, insert the plug and use regular drywall mud to smooth over the patch without creating a lump. <S> -- Skim once before applying drywall tape, then again after. <S> if you have to use thick coats, then you pushed in your plug too far. <S> -- knife out the mud, pull out the plug slightly, then re-mud/tape to seal it. <A> If the outlet (work box) is at a standard height (approx. <S> 16 <S> " above the floor), I doubt the repair needs to be strong enough to hang a picture from it. <S> Spackling over the smaller holes as you have done is cool, but the larger ones need taping. <S> The hole you have only needs a small piece of tape over it. <S> Tape comes 2" wide, cut a 3" piece of mesh tape and stick it over the hole so it overlaps all sides about 1/2", AFTER you scrape the excess spackle from the nearby nail holes you filled, sand them if you like. <S> First coat over the repair will be a tight coat, the idea is to fill the void through the tape. <S> OR, you can fill it flush to the wall before you set the tape <S> , however you do it, get the hole filled and use the knife to keep the wall clean, (you can fill it by smearing spackle on the backside of the drywall with your finger to build up the opening enough to hold more spackle). <S> Let dry. <S> Second coat will build up over the mesh and around the outlet a bit, set painters tape over the outlet to help keep it clean. <S> To get a smooth surface you will need to apply more mud than you think, each time you build up the amount you need, then smooth it off. <S> Each time you apply the knife to smooth down the build up, clean off the excess you remove, off the knife. <S> A clean knife makes it easier to get a smooth job. <S> You may be able to keep the repair small enough where you will not need to go down on the sides of the box, which if you are new at this, will make it simpler for you. <S> It really should require going around the box a little to help make the repair blend in better. <S> It will take a second coat over the first build up coat. <S> The idea is to get just enough finish over the tape to hide the mesh, 1/16" slightly more perhaps. <A> Use a technique called a "california hot patch". <S> Hands down the best low-tech technique to patch holes quickly. <S> Works with either chemical setting "hot mud" or conventional drying type. <S> The 5 minute setting type "hot mud" is incredibly finicky, but the 20 minute mixed with hot water is decent to work with and will allow you to have the patch done start to finish in less than an hour. <S> http://www.finehomebuilding.com/readerproject/2009/09/02/california-drywall-patch
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No need to cut out more drywall, tape will be needed to finish the patch to keep the joint from cracking.
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How to properly double on ceiling joists I'd like to double my ceiling joists to make my attic space easier to work in (for electrical/plumbing) and for lightweight storage. Status Quo: 2x4's (actual size) spaced 16" on-center running the width of the building uninterrupted, with the ends resting on top of the wall top plate. Each joist is strong enough to support my weight (~175lbs ) concentrated in a ~1' segment of the joist, and there isn't much deflection either. Goal: Reinforce the joists and lay down a wood subfloor (OSB, ply, etc.) so I'm not tiptoeing on joists whenever I'm up there. Plan: "Sister" or double the ceiling joists with 2x6's or 2x8's with the ends resting on the wall top plates then lay the subfloor on the new joists. Question: I understand that there are requirements for doubling joists, including how frequently they need to be fastened, but does this plan make sense overall? <Q> This will add strength to them and keep your headroom. <S> Be sure to run the length of the plywood across the joist. <A> Your plan is sound. <S> I would be certain the joists that are added are tight to existing and use a deadman or "jimmy bar" as I call it to ease the existing joists up a bit in unison to help relieve some of the existing sag that is in the ceiling. <S> The use 2 1/2"to 3" long screws to tie it to the new joists every few feet or so, mainly in the middle span, the ends are not critical. <S> Using nails will create too much vibration and may cause cracking or worst, your existing ceiling to come down. <S> Depending on the span overall and the location of the mid support, determines the size of new joists, or just go with 2X8s for better insulation under the floor. <S> I would up the immediate area under the plywood another level of 2X4 or more to get a total of 12-15" of insulation on the ceiling. <A> Add plywood to the bottom of the 2X4 , with deck screws . <S> Plywood on top is a floor and adds to the strength making something like an "H" beam. <S> You lose very little height this way.
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If you have no sag in the ceiling just screw 3/4 inch plywood on on top of the ceiling joist.
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Brown water briefly coming from hot water pipe in bathroom sink For a minute or two one afternoon, we had water with a brownish tint coming out of one of our bathroom sinks, and only when the hot water handle was on. The cold water was normal, and our other taps seemed to be fine. Is this a sign that some rust or silt build-up got knocked loose in the hot water pipe leading to that sink? We weren't running hot water elsewhere at the time before the water turned clear again, so I can't rule out the water heater being the culprit. Is this a sign that it needs maintenance? And in case someone asks, we've had a lot of rain lately, but no extreme weather otherwise (meaning, no frozen pipes). <Q> My water heater eventually started leaking several months after I posted this question, so I can only assume that it was in fact due to corrosion on the inside of the tank that was a sign of things to come. <S> I've since gotten a new water heater installed, and my water has been fine. <A> I had the same problem with a cheap faucet on a sink. <S> I fixed the problem by replacing the faucet with a new MOEN faucet. <S> I never knew where the brown water came from, and I have city water. <S> The problem was the fault of the faucet since the new faucet does not have the brownish water. <A> It will make a lot of brown water (rust) before it corrodes through. <S> I have several situations like this in my sprinkler system ; I don't expect leaks in my lifetime.
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Somewhere in your piping you have steel components where the galvanizing has corroded away ( or possibly was not galvanized originally).
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How can I find a stud from the exterior to mount service mast? I'm changing the location of the electrical service mast on my house. Is there an easy way(s) or a trick of the trade to find a stud from the exterior of the house so my lag bolts that will hold the mast brackets will hit framing and not just rough siding? Right now, my house is sided with vinyl over 1" of styrofoam, cedar clapboard and 1x6 board siding. I have access to the interior side of the wall, too, but I'm having difficulty translating the stud location to the exterior. <Q> Plan A Find an interior: <S> exterior reference point... <S> a window, electrical penetration, etc. <S> on the wall in question. <S> You can often knock with your knuckles and determine to which side of an outlet the stud lies. <S> Measure from the stud to your reference point. <S> If it's a window, measure to clear glass. <S> Outside, measure back from the same point. <S> Plan B <S> Begin drilling small holes behind the loose siding at 1" intervals, just deep enough to reach framing. <S> Once you hit a stud, drill 1/2" left and right to find the rough center. <S> Take a measurement from a fixed point, such as the siding corner or a window. <S> Flex the siding back onto the retention rib. <S> No "exploratory holes" through your siding or wounds in your drywall are needed whatsoever here. <A> Assuming you're in the USA, your house's framing is probably 2x4 studs, spaced 16" on-center. <S> (If the house was built before modern building codes, or by some free spirit who didn't let the government tell him what to do, then all bets are off. <S> If it's very recent, it might also be 2x6, 24" spacing.) <S> So measure 16" from a corner (or some multiple of 16) and make some exploratory holes. <A> Remove the vinyl, foam, and clapboards in the area of interest. <S> Look for the nails in the 1x6 boards. <S> Mount mast, reassemble siding. <A> @BillOertell suggested I propose this as an actual answer: <S> Find applicable stud from inside of building (with studfinder or similar) Drill pilot hole through stud from inside all the way to the outside. <S> Perhaps consider leaving the bit in the hole or some brightly colored wire so you can spot it easily from outside <S> Go outside and locate pilot hole <S> This, of course, assumes you have access to the inside wall where the service mast will be located, that you have access to decently long drill bits, and that you can find studs from the inside easily enough.
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Using a studfinder, or by examining baseboard nails and outlet locations, find a stud from the interior. Gently release the bottom edge of one row of siding from its retention rib near the intended mount location.
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Is wiring with melted insulation and exposed copper dangerous? A plumber has melted the grey sleeve on a two core electrical cable in our kitchen whilst soldering a joint on an adjacent copper pipe. I can see exposed copper through a small hole the cable sleeve. This hole is approx 1cm in length. The cable is at floor level, under the fridge freezer and as far as I can tell, runs to a socket. I've checked everything in the kitchen and it's all working. Is this wire dangerous? If he tries to fix it with electrical tape will this suffice? Thanks in advance. <Q> Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. <S> If there isn't enough slack then you'll need a new short run of wire to bridge the gap. <S> Because you have physical access to the area <S> The splices should be inside junction boxes. <S> Bill the work/materials to the plumber or deduct it from his bill if you haven't payed him yet and tell him to invest in a scorch pad to avoid stuff like this. <A> A picture would help, but the "runs into a socket" part sounds like this is an appliance cord and not house wiring. <S> Which makes it a lot easier. <S> If there is ONE copper wire exposed, and the rest looks fine, then 5-6 wraps of electrical tape will be fine - that's basically what electrical tape is for. <S> Short extension to the socket if the remaining cord isn't long enough. <S> If it's not a cord, and this is in fact solid house wiring, then the proper repair depends a lot on where you live (country should be a required tag on electrical questions). <A> There's one important additional consideration. <S> This damage is in a kitchen. <S> Is it to a wire at floor level, or a decent height above? <S> Because a kitchen is quite likely to suffer a flood, say, if the washing machine or dishwasher outlet becomes blocked. <S> At which point a cable at floor level will be sitting in hot soapy water, and one of several things will happen. <S> At best, the circuit is protected by its own RCBO and trips, and you only discover later when all the food in the freezer has thawed and been ruined. <S> Less good, the house's one and only RCD trips, and the house in plunged into darkness, and possibly somebody falls down the stairs or slips on the flooded kitchen floor as a result. <S> Worst, there is no RCD at all, and someone is electrocuted. <S> Soapy water is a good conductor of electricity and kitchens are full of earthed metal things that you touch. <S> So although tape might be acceptable for wiring <S> that's permanently a foot above floor level, it definitely is not acceptable down on the floor. <S> Whatever you do, get somebody who knows electricity to check and fix it (not the electrically unqualified plumber who broke it in the first place). <S> I don't know your locale, but here in the UK it would be an open and shut case against the plumber in the small claims court, if you get it repaired by a qualified electrician who documents the damage on his quotation before repairing it. <S> (Also, take photos). <S> If he's not planning on going bankrupt or "doing a runner", he'll probably settle as soon as he sees the electrician's invoice, to avoid also being on the hook for court fees.
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The main risk is that the plumber has gone bankrupt before you win your case. If you see more than one copper wire exposed there are two choices: separate the wires and wrap each one separately, or just cut the cord at that point and put a new plug on the end. You'll need to cut out the damaged part and splice them together again.
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Disable the LG washer/dryer melody at end of the cycle? Title is the question, the loud melody is obnoxious. This is a last ditch effort, the manual doesn't provide any information, surprisingly this fairly comprehensive machine doesn't seem to be designed to disable a sound? Is there a cord to cut or sequence of steps to silence the sound? Model: LG WM3997HWA Ventless 4.3 Cu. Ft. Capacity Steam Washer/Dryer Combination with TurboWash, TrueBalance Anti-Vibration System, NeveRust Stainless Steel Drum, Allergiene Cycle in White <Q> I've used the following method to make obnoxious sounds coming from home appliances and toys much quieter: <S> Find where the sound comes from. <S> Usually there's a little grill or perforated plastic that covers the loudspeaker or piezo inducer. <S> Tape over it with a transparent office tape. <S> I sometimes do two layers in cross-hatch pattern if sounds are very loud. <S> Usually, it makes the sound quiet enough not to be bothersome anymore. <S> You could, of course, disassemble the whole thing and cut the wires to the speaker (if it's not PCB-mounted, which many of them are), but in my experience just covering the hole where sounds come from is good enough. <A> Manufacture mentioned there is no way to silence sound. <S> Inspired by Haimg's advice, I disconnected one of pins from the speaker module off of the components board. <A> Strangely, page 26 of the manual mentioned in the question says the following: <S> Does that not work, or only apply to some subset of this model? <S> Maybe there is some trick to get it right <S> (sometimes these translated messages lack certain clarity). <S> I would guess that it probably resets if power is lost. <S> I would not recommend physically cutting any wire to silence the beast. <S> (if repair is ever needed) <A> I thought my washing machine couldn't be silenced, but the manual section titled "Signal" advised to hold down the Extra Rinse button for 3 seconds to control the volume.
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Sounds are also used by the repair technicians to diagnose problems.
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Literature on effect of frequent switching on-off of air conditioner on compressor I tried searching for literature on this using various search terms on google scholar but couldn't get anything substantial. I'm particularly interested in how adversely the AC compressor is affected by frequent switching on-off and how its efficiency is affected. Is there any additional conventional wisdom you could enlighten me with? Thank you for the help. <Q> My first question is, why are you asking about frequent cycling of the compressor. <S> Do you have a problem with your A/C unit or some great idea <S> you want to try? <S> Frequent cycling of the compressor will drastically shorten it's life. <S> If this is happening with your unit I would have a "hard start kit" installed on your unit along with a short cycle timer. <S> Unless you know how to do this yourself, Call an HVAC person to have these items installed. <S> When I installed HVAC systems I always priced these 2 items into the job and educated the customer as to why I installed them. <A> Bottom line; reducing run time will save money and energy. <S> There is nothing wrong with using an occupancy sensor to control whether the A/C can run. <S> If you think about how often a compressor cycles on and off while in use, shutting down when no one is present obviously will REDUCE cycles. <S> As for lack of dehumidification, that is usually only a concern when units are oversized and can not run long enough before reaching temperature set point to remove adequate moisture from the ambient air. <S> Having an unoccupied mode, on the other hand, allows room temperatures to elevate, and thereby necessitating longer recovery run times and actually improving humidity control. <S> Go for it! <A> Air conditioners work best at a steady state. <S> They don’t do well cooling down to temperature and if it is sized right it will take a bit of time to cool down to temperature. <S> If it is run off a motion sensor I would set it for at least a half hour or more. <S> It would be very annoying sitting down reading a book and having the air conditioning continually shut off because you were too still. <S> It takes an air conditioner up to 20 minutes to stabilize pressures which is inefficient. <S> Humidity would go up and down. <S> Hope that helps
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Compressors should be off for at least 5 minutes to allow the refrigerant to equalize before turning back on again or damage could occur.
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O-Rings vs. Washers for Garden Hoses? Hose sealers seem to be typically sold in a combo pack with two types. When are garden-hose washers used and when are the O-rings appropriate? I've been kind of winging it with my own hoses, depending upon which seems to fit better. Is there more to the logic than that? Pictures would be particularly helpful. <Q> Actually there is an o-ring that works far better than those typical flat or squared edge washers - it has a larger diameter (fatter) and seals better than anything I’ve ever used. <S> Walmart has them as well as many other retailers. <S> Part # 853814-1001 50381 <A> There are better washers than those large, flat, stiff rubber ones. <S> The better ones are softer, a little smaller, and have three or so "ears" on them. <S> I have never used an O-ring to connect garden hoses. <S> See these vinyl hose sealing washers with ears <S> The washers are a little smaller than the large stiff rubber ones so they fit in the hose <S> end easily, but the ears hold them in place. <S> The old style may work for older extra heavy duty hoses which people don't buy anymore, but they are over-sized for modern "consumer grade" hoses. <A> Hose rings are flat to accommodate various types of male end connections. <S> Some are cast brass, some are stamped from steel tubing. <S> O-rings don't provide enough surface for the edges to press against. <S> They're likely to slip past and be damaged or leak. <S> The two types aren't typically sold together because they're useful together. <S> That's just another cheapskate ploy by retailers to save shelf space and sell you more than you need. <A> O-rings are only used with quick-connects that snap in and out. <S> Undersized cheap vinyl washers with ears are meant for cheap undersized hoses, are inferior to rubber and just save the manufacturer a few cents to make them. <S> Before I bought any of those I would check the condition of the hose because it may not be in good enough shape to bother buying washers for. <S> The odd thing is that this question is asked at all. <S> All hoses come with a washer so you should be replacing it with the same type it originally had in it. <A> We have one of the newer very flexible and light-weight garden hoses called "Zero-G" from "Teknor Apex" that will not work with the typical 1" diameter hose washer. <S> Oddly enough, the inner diameter of the female connector is 1 1/16 inches. <S> If a normal 1" washer is used, it will leak. <S> To work properly, first a 1 1/16 O-ring has to be placed into the connector followed by a normal 1" diameter hose washer. <S> Amazing how foreign manufacturers can take something simple & easy that has worked for years and years and make it complicated with additional cost.
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Always get the correct size rubber washer when it is available. No garden hose uses an O-ring for the junction between it and a threaded connection to something else. The combination of the two work together to prevent leaking.
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Is 1/2 inch plywood over 3/4 inch subfloor adequate for 12x24 ceramic tile? We took up old ceramic tile and found no cement board or other underlayment material underneath. However, I did find that the previous installer had put another sheet of 1/2 plywood over the 3/4 inch plywood subfloor. No nails or screws in that top sheet of plywood. Guessing they just glued it to the 3/4 inch subfloor. Is this adequate to install new 12 x 24 inch porcelain tile if I screw that top plywood onto the subfloor, ensuring the screws are every 6 to 8 inches apart and not screwed into the joist? Or, do I need to get rid of that 1/2 plywood sheet and install cement board, or something like Ditra? Thank you.Kicknback1 <Q> If the 1/2 top layer plywood was glued to the 3/4 plywood, then it's effectively a 1-1/4" plywood. <A> Ditra works fantastically well, when you follow the instructions... and it demands slightly less plywood than some other underlayments. <S> I've done a few bathrooms, a laundry room, and a couple kitchens with ditra. <S> Not a single crack, even in locations where you used a little less ply than called for. <A> I would not install porcelain tile on plywood. <S> I'd only use a cement board. <S> I would not use thin set if it needs to be waterproof. <S> However, deflection is the key element in the performance of tile. <S> Too much deflection and the tile (and/or grout) will crack.
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I suppose if the floor won't get wet, it would be perfectly fine to just lay the porcelain tiles directly over the plywood with thinset. There's a ditra install manual on the web, just plug in your values and you're good to go. Therefore, I'd check the size, spacing and span of the floor joists before starting.
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How can I find the centre of a round table? I was building a round table with a single pole in the middle. I have the round table top, a base, a pole and a mount to go under the table.The mount has a hole in the middle for the pole and then goes wider to spread out the load (it is around 25cm in diameter and has 8 screw holes to go into the wooden table top). There are a number of suggestions online on how to find the centre of a circle. However most of these are for smaller circle and suggest using rulers and squares which is not as practical for a larger table (~1.5m diameter). Is there a best practice for finding the centre of a larger table? How important is it that I am centre of the table? Because it is a single pole table I am a bit nervous it may come out wobbly if off centre. <Q> You just need a square, a measuring tape and a straight edge. <S> (A large enough carpenter's square is all of these in one tool) <S> Draw two arbitrary chords (lines across) anywhere on the circle. <S> Note the chords don't have to be the same length or lined up to each other in any way. <S> Use a square to project a second line towards the center of the circle at exactly a 90 degree angle to the chord <S> Where the projected lines overlap is the center <S> You can repeat with additional chords get the center more accurately (which can compensate for any deviation in finding the chord center or getting an exact 90 degree angle) <A> If you know the radius, use your tape measure from a point on the edge to draw an arc at the radius of the table. <S> Then choose another point 1/3 of the way round and repeat. <S> Then the other third. <S> That should leave you a tiny little triangle in the middle if you got your radius right. <S> The centre is the middle of that. <S> If you are not sure it is totally round, repeat in a few spots around the table and use the "middle" of where they "cross". <S> But not too many or you will get confused. <S> If you want to be really accurate rather than fiddling with tape and pencil, you can jig up a tool out of a length of wood with a nail in the outer end as a pin, and a hole to fit a pencil Radius distance away from the pin. <A> A slightly simpler, but also slightly less accurate way to do this would be to place a stick with a rounded end (something like a broom handle) in a vice clamp. <S> Then place the table top on top and proceed to balance it on the end of the stick. <S> Once the table balances perfectly, mark the centre by drawing or placing painters tape around the spot where the end of the stick rests on the table top. <S> In this way you may not find the exact mathematical centre of the table, however you will be finding its centre of gravity, which in this case of construction may provide you with a less "wobbly" and more centred table as the centre of gravity is what determines if the table is wobbly or not when balanced on merely 1 leg. <A> Two measures should be good enough, but if you like you can keep doing this and the marks will generally outline the center. <S> Chances are good that if you hit that within +-1.5" it's not going to matter. <S> The top doesn't necessarily need to be perfectly balanced on the center, since as soon as you put something on the table it won't be balanced, and the variation in wood density will probably put the center of mass slightly off the geometric center anyhow. <A> Walk around to the other side with string in hand. <S> Take note where it takes the most string to cross the table; uniform tension, and a thumbnail on string against table edge will tell you this. <S> You are at a diameter. <S> Mark line along string near center of table. <S> Repeat with string <S> taped 30 or 45° away from original spot. <S> Three to four repeats will get you 3-4 lines all of which cross at the center of the table. <S> All lines should cross at table's center. <S> Error may get you a little triangle, square or hexagon. <S> The middle of that is the center of the table.
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Tape a piece of string to a spot on the edge of the table. Find the exact center of each line You could just lay a tape measure across and mark 1/2, then do that again at a different angle. I think this technique using chords with 90 degree lines is probably the easiest to do because it involves standard construction tools and can compensate for inprecise measurements.
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How can I relocate hookups for washer and electric dryer? EDIT: added info and added alternate locations. Our washer and dryer hookups are located out of reach, 40" behind the appliances. They are mounted on what, in the 1940's, was the exterior side of an exterior wall of a one story house. What is now the den and laundry room became a carport eventually, then a garage, then a den and laundry room with an attached garage continuing the expansion. At some point, a dormer was built, and the stairs added. I've been here 4 years. I will be moving them, probably to the left side wall, but possibly under the stairs (adding an 8 or 10" sofit of sorts) or to the wall behind the dryer. One 110V, one 220V, hot/cold water lines, and drain. Looking for tips and possible trip-ups. The washer and dryer and water heater will remain as in the photos. Here are a couple more pics of what I'm dealing with. The first shows the existing hook ups underneath the stairs. The second pic shows the (interior) left wall. On the other side of it is our den. <Q> I would exploit it by getting a dryer, or front load washer, which has controls on its front rather than back. <S> Then push the entire unit into the convenient recess. <S> Turn the other unit 90 degrees with its back to the water heater, and easier transfers too. <S> Alternatively, they make washer+dryer combo units in the same form factor as a front load washer alone. <S> Really. <S> Toss in clothes and soap, push buttons, come back 2 hours later and the clothes are clean and dry. <S> Would free up a lot of space in that room. <A> For 39 years we have been in a house with the washer and dryer in an alcove which prevents side access to the washer and dryer, so I understand how inconvenient your set-up is. <S> I can reach over the washer to operate the water cut-off valves (but my wife can't). <S> And I could pull it out and run it out in the room if necessary to diagnose problems. <S> But how I envy arrangements with full access to a side of both washer and dryer! <S> In your setup to shut off the water supply <S> I guess you get a stool and drape yourself over the washer and reach to the limit, right? <S> What an aggravation! <S> But at least your washer plug is high. <S> (Mine is low.) <S> To pull the washer out for service <S> I guess you have to first push the washer in 2 ft <S> or so you can reach the power, the drain, and the water supply lines to disconnect, and then pull the washer out. <S> Then to push it in you have to tie cords to each line to keep them accessible when you push it in. <S> EDIT <S> There does not appear to be much room between the wall and the side of the washer to place water supply and drains there. <S> If I were planning to move the connections, I would think about moving them out and not onto a side wall. <A> Instead of over, out Instead of trying to route the connections over to some other part of the wall, how about elbowing them out to where they're accessible? <S> The hot and cold water lines are simple -- the existing shutoffs are replaced with elbows, and the elbows pipe out to straight tap valves (vs the right angle ones currently there). <S> The drain stack can be elbowed out at its base using two elbows and a straight pipe section before it hits the trap -- washer effluent is greywater not blackwater (no chunky bits) <S> so you can use regular elbows instead of long sweep ones. <S> As to the electrical -- the existing junction boxes will need to have their faceplates replaced with 1/2" conduit KO faceplates and lengths of flexible conduit (probably LFMC) run from the existing boxes to new boxes <S> mounted on a uni-strut or other sort of post (2x lumber will do) <S> securely mounted to the floor. <S> Then, you can extend the wiring through the conduit using some THHN of the appropriate gauge (12 for the washer, 10 for the dryer), nut the new wiring to the old wiring in the existing boxes, wire up the new receptacles, and mount them in the new boxes, putting appropriate faceplates on of course. <S> Last <S> but not least, some rigid vent duct can be used to extend the existing dryer vent hookup out.
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I would think, "Connections are always behind the washer and dryer; putting them on a side wall may have unforeseen complications." You can take this opportunity to get rid of the flex vent, too.
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Can I pull a new single conductor alongside an existing 14/2 wire for a fan+light install? In my bathroom, I have a 2-gang switch box. One switch controls the light bar above the sink, and one controls the fan. I have a new fan, which includes a light. I want to wire the light on the fan to be on the same switch as the light bar, and so this requires 2 switched hots in the fan box; I only have 1. Do I need to pull a new 14/3 wire from the switch box to the fan box, or can I just pull a new single conductor and use it alongside the existing 14/2? Located near Houston, TX, not sure what version of the NEC we have to follow. <Q> You cannot pull a single conductor . <S> (Retrofitting grounds is another story, that's allowed now.) <S> They are most commonly used on tavern style slow spinning ceiling fans, but I believe they make them for bathroom fans also. <S> Some also work with wireless remotes, smartphone and home-automation systems. <A> Not under the code. <S> NEC 300.3 (B) <S> - All conductors of the same circuit ... shall be contained within the same raceway ... <S> [or] cable ... <S> The additional hot you need is a conductor that must be in the same cable or raceway as the neutral for that circuit. <S> Additionally, in general, you cannot run single/solo wires that are not in a cable, a raceway, conduit, or some similarly approved protective covering. <S> NEC 300.3 (A) - Single conductors ... <S> shall only be installed where part of a recognized wiring method described in Chapter 3. <A> NM cable (your existing cable) is approved for residential use. <S> If you need to turn the light on and off without running another cable there are many wireless switch options for sale at your local box store or online. <S> Good luck with your project!
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Single conductor wires are made to be installed in a raceway.(conduit) However, there may be "smart devices" to help you solve that problem, such as Infineon modules which which sit up in the fan/light and listen to electronic signals from a matching light/fan switch. ANY version of the NEC prohibits a single THHN conductor or other type without an outer jacket to be run with the 14/2.
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How can I wire this bathroom fan into the middle of an existing circuit? I am upgrading a bathroom fan from below (no attic access) and replacing the single pole switch with a timer switch. I’ve wired switches and outlets before, but this one is throwing me for a loop. I don’t trust how it was wired before, and I’d like to do this correctly. Romex 1A and 1B were formerly a single 12-2 Romex that ran power up to the attic to some outlets. When the previous owner redid the drywall in the bathroom, they put in a poor-quality fan (w/ a light) where there wasn’t any fan before. They powered this new fan by cutting that wire (Romex 1) running to the attic and tied it together in a junction box above the ceiling. Then they ran 12-2 down from the new junction box to a new single pole switch. Then they connected the whole thing in a big mess with pig tails….but it worked. Of course, the light and fan came on together which is fine with me. Romex #2 is stapled behind the drywall, so I can’t use it to pull a new 12-4 cable from the timer switch to the fan. And I haven’t been able to fish my tape down from the fan opening to the switch. I really don’t want to cut holes in the drywall to fish 12-4 if I don’t have to. Update : as ThreePhaseEel pointed out below, I will either need to somehow install 12-4 (in place of current Romex #2) or downgrade to a more simple timer (or single pole switch). If I simply put back in a single-pole switch for now (instead of the timer shown in the photo), then how would I connect everything up at the light to allow the attic outlets to still have continuous power? I’m OK with having the light and fan come on together (it’s an energy efficient LED light and fan). I tremendously appreciate any help. <Q> how would I connect everything up at the light to allow the attic outlets to still have continuous power? <S> Wire neutrals #1, #2, and #5 together; there will be no neutral connection to Romex #2. <S> Connect "black" #1, #2, & #3 together, to deliver power to the outlet in the attic and to the wall switch; #3 will connect to the "line" terminal on the switch (if it has a terminal labeled as such, most do not and it doesn't really matter). <S> The wire you have labeled as "neutral #3" in your diagram will actually become the "switched hot" that delivers switched power back up to the load (to black #5 and red #2), if it is a white wire then you must mark it as a switched hot by wrapping black or red tape around the visible insulated ends in each junction box, or marking those ends with a black or red marker, or labeling them somehow. <A> Get a different timer <S> You'll have to take your timer back and get one that doesn't require the neutral to work, unfortunately. <S> You'll also need to make sure your timer is rated for a fan load (many are not). <S> If it does need grounding, you'll need to pigtail the ground from the switch together with the box ground and nut them to the ground wire. <S> Then, you can wire the box in the attic as Jimmy Fix- <S> It's answer describes. <A> Why not use the classic spring operated timer switch? <S> It doesn't need neutral to get its own power, it runs on you power! <S> Then you can wire it as Jimmy recommends. <S> I hate those digital timers, the UI is rather confusing. <S> Why seven switches for a simple function? <S> You may also be able to find smart switches with in-fan modules they communicate with over the power lines. <S> Then you would just wire always-hot and neutral to everything, the fan and light to the module, and yer done.
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If you are using a single pole switch instead of the timer -- connect one terminal to the black in the switch box, the other terminal to the white in the switch box, tag the white as a hot with a tape flag, and connect the green grounding screw to the ground wire in the switch box, assuming the box itself doesn't need grounding as well.
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What to use to harden up a gravel driveway I have a gravel driveway uphill. I put new 1/2" rock gravel in last fall because of washout. I also spread concrete and sprayed it, but it didn't take. I have a 05 Harley Davidson Road King custom that I can't get up or down the driveway without almost dumping it. Can I put anything on it to harden it up enough to get my bike up and down? It's too long to cement or asphalt it. <Q> What shape is the gravel? <S> Go look at railroad ballast, you want that stuff, aka "crushed stone", very jaggy and will interlock when tamped down. <S> Very hard to shovel for that reason. <S> You want a smaller size though. <S> Any sort of round or half-round pea gravel type stuff has to go. <S> Get a loader, shovel it outta there, save it for aggregate for concrete. <S> The difference is night and day. <A> Take a look at this similar post for good suggestions. <A> Here around Pittsburgh, <S> Pa. we have a combination gravel called "modified". <S> It has several sizes of lime or slag chips and a lot of what is called "fines". <S> You spread it out, tamp it down with a compactor and after a short time it compacts to a very hard surface. <S> You can still dig it up with aggressive tire action, but it is better than the stuff you used. <S> George of all trades has a similar recommendation <A> I had the same promblem with my driveway a couple years ago <S> and i got estimates on getting it both asphalt and concrete <S> and both were really expensive but the asphalt guy mentioned <S> a tar and chip driveway was what i needed for traction and for the price i could afford which was a fraction of the price of asphalt and the best part was it didnt require regular maintenance like seal coating or cracking like asphalt or concrete <S> and it also brought a very decorative look to my driveway. <S> Maybe you should check for tar and chip pavers and ill post a link to what im referring to. <S> https://youtu.be/IgYnrFt3TqM
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You could use a plate compactor and attempt to compact the gravel into the soil to provide a firm base.
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Can an inspector require a specific grounding technique? I had been taking classes to become an electrician at one of the bigger community colleges in my area (specifically LBCC) and my brother had been doing some renovation on his own home and asked me to help out so I wired up the boxes and switches and receptacles and while we grounded the switches and receptacles we forgot to ground the metal boxes them selves and the inspection failed but my brother tells me that the inspector said we're not allowed to pigtail the grounds between the boxes and devices that we have to use a long ground wire loop it around the boxes ground screw then run it up to the ground screw on the device ... can he do that? this runs counter to what I was taught which is to pigtail the wires to the devices and ground screws <Q> If you are taking training this can be found in the NEC section 90.4 "Enforcement" the second sentence states he is the legal jurisdiction having authority for the enforcement of the code <S> and he has the responsibility for making interpretations of the rules, ... <S> So in answer to your question <S> yes. <S> The only thing you could do is to appeal it to his employer (the city council or whomever) or try and reason with him. <S> Personally I wouldn't try and tick him off. <A> but too the fact is that the NEC are standards, and are accepted by the individual city as guidelines, but the code that you live by ULTIMATELY depends on the LOCAL regulations...and specifically where the NEC contradicts local regulation, local regulations are the only thing that anyone give a hoopla about. <S> Generally the inspector will be under what is known as a "Project Engineer" or "Project Manager" for the jurisdiction under that governs the applicable inspection of electrical in the area. <S> The other thing though to be aware of is that even if the inspector is a moron.....make sure you have your ducks in a row before you call him one....because they can have quite a bit of power and authority (it depends on the situation of course, but I am telling you this from experience as an Electrical Inspector for the State of Alaska for several years on quite a few multi-million dollar projects. <S> My boss would back me even if I was wrong if he could have excused it politically. <S> It is just how things work .... <S> its a game in many ways that you have to play to be successful (imho)... <A> Electric inspectors are about the only trade that has that authority. <S> Inspector JeffICC/FL/SC licensed combination building inspector and building designer
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Like the 'Retired Master Electrician' said, yes they can as per the NEC....
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What is the ideal lumen output and temperature range for my computer room? I have replaced an older 100W incandescent light bulb with an led 3000K 1400 lumen light bulb but it seems very bright so I wonder if the lumen output is too high. How can I calculate the correct lumen output needed for my space? What is an ideal lightbulb temperature for computer room/use? The 3000K led is a lot whiter than the old incandescent, perhaps easier on the eyes but too bright in my case. Room Diagram: <Q> "Calculate the correct lumen output" & "ideal lightbulb temperature" implies a lot more definition to "correct" and "ideal" than seems likely to apply to a matter of individual tastes. <S> For some folks the light in the computer room comes only from the screens, and it goes up from there. <S> There may well be architectural standards, but whether you like the result is going to vary anyway. <S> So: <S> ** <S> Try different bulbs until you like one. <S> ** <S> Or: Replace switch with (LED-rated) dimmer and adjust to suit. <S> This can actually be tricky as many LED dimmers have minimum loads for stable operation that are more than a single bulb. <A> What you're up against there is color rendering index or CRI. <S> It's also possible <S> you have a mislabeled LED which is not in fact 3000 degrees <S> K. <S> Both are a problem when buying "bargain" bulbs. <S> Unfortunately there are several "semi-famous names" which you see a lot at your preferred store and dominate the aisles there, which are in fact Cheese cheapies right off the boat. <S> Not to mention any names, they have initials like Ut, LoA or FE. <S> I buy GE brand which dominate the shelves at my local Target, and they are indistinguisable from incandescents. <S> GE knows a thing or two about light bulbs, having invented them. <A> 1400 Lumens is pretty bright depending on how far the bulb is from your eyes and <S> between 600 and 1000 Lumens is plenty bright for most applications. <S> Now the Kelvin ratings these days generally falls into three groups. <S> Warm White 2700 <S> K Kelvin <S> Natural White 3000 <S> K Kelvin <S> Cool White 3500K Kelvin and up The Coloring Rending Index, or CRI, is a measure of how well artificial light compares to real light. <S> A CRI of 100% being true light. <S> The higher end LEDs are 2700K Kelvin with a CRI between 90-95% -- <S> These tend to be more compatible with existing incandescent giving off that warm white most people are used to. <S> There are some parabolic "PAR" LEDs on the market that have a CRI of 93% and 2700-3000 Kelvins. <S> These mimic halogen based reflector bulbs without all the heat. <S> For your application it would be hard to know which bulb would work best as there isn't enough details <S> but hopefully you've learned some things here to shop wisely. <A> Color calibrate your printer and monitor using a device. <S> Then choose the bulb color-temperature so that they match to your eyes. <A> Tl; dr: choose a bulb (or bulbs) that give you about 30-50 lumens/ft 2 , and a color temperature of about 4100K For the lumens output question: <S> The key component missing in your question is the size of your room. <S> What you want to consider is not total lumen output, but lumens per square foot (or foot-candles). <S> To look at it another way: we put smaller bulbs in our cloests, and bigger bulbs in our living rooms. <S> Closets tend to be small, and living roombs bigger. <S> You can read more in this GSA publication for lighting guidelines for US Government office buildings, or you could get way into the weeds reading through the Handbook of the Illumination Engineering Society . <S> For the color temperature question: This becomes more personal preference, but is also somewhat dependent on the work you do in your office. <S> If you're doing color-correct work (like photo editing, printing, or other visual manipulation), you may want to go even cooler. <S> Keep in mind, too, what surfaces the light is bouncing off of. <S> If you have a cool light bouncing off a warm ceiling, it's going to change the light reflected to your work surface. <S> If you have a white ceiling, the light will remain more or less unchanged.
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A real incandescent flame will emit 2700K Kelvins and has a nice CRI of 100%.Most lower end LEDs on the market are 3000K Kelvins and have a CRI of 80% -- This tends to be more white and less colorful ( especially when dimmed ). Also, the LED needs to be "dimmable." If you're just doing general office productivity work, 4100K is a good choice.
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Lawn tractor stalls after a few minutes I have a Craftsman lawn tractor with an 18.5 HP Intek Engine (97700 series). It starts fine; but, after a minute or so, it begins blowing white smoke, then stalls. The smoke is not real thick, but enough to make a haze around the mower. When the mower first begin stalling, gas seemed to be getting in the oil. I've replaced the head gasket, changed the oil, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the air filter, and checked the valve clearances. Is there anything else I should check before taking it to the repair shop? <Q> If the smoke is coloured blueish white you are burning bit of oil. <S> it could be many things. <S> overfilling the crankcase with oil, Malfunctioning crankcase breather or air leak in the crankcase are the usual things to check. <S> if the head gasket is sound and you are not operating the machine over 15 degrees tilt all the time that leaves only few other possibilities. <S> simple ones like wrong oil type or water in the gas. <S> You mentioned you check the carb and imo water in the gas is very high unlikely too. <S> Worse case scenario is worn cylinder or rings if ignored <S> can cause big problems. <S> You probably done this already but if it was mine i would drop the oil fully and fill it with exact amount it says on the manual and give her few rounds around the yard with full power without the blades and than engage the blades and start cutting <A> This really sounds like your mixture ratio is off, it can also be a sign of BAD rings. <S> A manual - look at 97700 serieshttp://faculty.missouri.edu/~schumacherl/276781SingleCylinderOHV.pdf <S> your carburetor may not have been rebuilt correctly - so please have a read of the manual... <S> From Chapter 4 page 67-68 of the manual: <S> These carburetors have a fixed high-speed main jet and a non-adjustable idle mixture (except on early production models), and are available in manual/remote choke or Choke-a-Matic® versions. <S> Many early carburetors had adjustable needle valves to compensate for high altitude conditions. <S> Later carburetors use replaceable main jets to compensate for various high altitude ranges. <S> See the appropriate Illustrated Parts List for replacement needle valves or jets. <A> I had a neighbor who let hers sit for a long while <S> and the gas went bad. <S> So I bought some pre-stabilized 4 cycle gas from the local big box and worked it with that. <S> The premix stuff is cleaner and helped work the varnish mess out. <S> We finally got it working after a long while of cranking fun.
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Probably gummed the carburetor up. Well the one thing I look at is the Air filter , you might also want to check your A/F mixture level.
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Can I use a 15 amp receptacle on a branch circuit fed by a 30 amp breaker? I will be using a high amp appliance at the end of a branch circuit, but in between them I have a room connected to it with a 15 amp receptacle. Am I allowed to do this? <Q> It's only a 20-amp branch circuit if all the wires are 12 AWG or larger. <S> If there is any 14 AWG wire at all, it's a 15 amp branch circuit. <S> To get a UL listing for a 15A receptacle, the maker must rate it for 20A of pass-through. <S> (pass-through is where you use the two screws on the receptacle to continue a circuit, rather than pigtailing.) <S> The purpose of this rule is to make it legal and safe to do exactly what you are doing . <S> So, yes. <S> It will be fine. <A> The answer to the question you've asked here, is yes. <S> All the wiring in the circuit must be sized to a 20 ampere circuit, meaning that it must all be 12 AWG or larger copper. <S> To answer this question in the context of your previous question , you can still have 15 ampere receptacles on the 20 ampere circuit. <S> However, since the circuit will have to be 240 volts, the 15 ampere receptacles have to be 240 volt receptacles (NEMA 6-15). <S> Any equipment attached to these receptacles will also have to be rated for 240 volts, and be rated less than 16 amperes (210.23(A)(1)). <A> I am not sure where some of the comments are coming from. <S> To reword your question can you have a 15 amp outlet protected by a 30 amp breaker <S> NO this would be a code violation. <S> If this is an existing run of #10 you could have a 30 amp outlet but not a 15 or 20 amp outlet connected to this circuit. <S> If it is a 12 AWG wire the maximum breaker size is 20 amps. <S> One of the few times a larger breaker can be used is for a dedicated motor load Or air conditioner (no other devices) . <S> so the large load at the end of the line could not have a 15 amp outlet. <S> At this point I am guessing you changed the question since so many are talking about a 20 amp breaker but as of now are asking about a 30 amp breaker. <S> Not legal!
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According to National Electrical Code 210.21(B)(3), you can install 15 ampere receptacles on a 20 ampere branch circuit, as long as the circuit supplies two or more receptacles or outlets.
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Why does hot water only run for 30 seconds in bathtub? In the bathroom of this rental is a tub with a shower diverter. It's an older setup with a hot & cold faucet and a center valve (one direction diverts to shower, the other to the tub faucet). If I turn on only the hot water, I get hot water for 30-45 seconds, then it goes cold. The water is heated by a stove oil fired boiler which also heats the building via radiators. If I go to the bathroom sink, or to the kitchen sink and turn on only the hot water, I have hot, hot water for virtually as long as I keep the faucet on. One additional issue is the water temperature is set way too high. At the kitchen faucet, I measured the temp, and after about 30 seconds, the water temp stabilizes at about 185 degrees. Too high, seriously dangerous too high, but the landlord insists the boiler has to be set that high, or "there won't be any heat in the winter, and everyone will complain about THAT." This same landlord also argues with me that insulating the supply pipes to the radiators 'wastes' the heat in the pipes, and has forbade me insulating them in our apartment, even though they are a serious safety issue. I don't see how the high temp setting would cause only the bath tub to have limited hot water, but after seeing what the hot water did to the drain pipes in the third floor bathtub, right above our second story bathroom, I'm wondering if the 185' water has damaged the diverter. [We have a suspended ceiling in our bathroom. A leaky hot water faucet in the 3rd floor bath tub leaked 185' water into the PVC drain pipes, causing them to deform, then leak, then soak our fiberglass paneled ceiling, (like in a typical office), which then caved in at 6:00am one morning.] He ended up paying me to fix the plumbing and ceiling, and in 40+ years of construction, I've never seen anything like it. I had to replace everything from the strainer on the tub to the junction with the 3" cast iron vertical drain. It was all distorted and melted from hot ass water. Anyway, we have the 185' water, and still have to take cold showers most of the time because of this strange issue with the diverter in the tub. I have tried every combination of adjustments, but can't figure out what's wrong. When I take a shower, I've noticed I get MORE hot water, if I open the cold water faucet further, but at some point, it doesn't help. Any ideas? Wild guesses? Could the 'clowns' have installed the diverter incorrectly? It's been replaced in the last 5-10 years, from what I can tell. Thanks GeoD <Q> You are pretty hardy if you can take a cold shower in NY in the winter or spring . <S> . <S> . or even summer. <S> We have the exact same old fashioned tub/shower with old Price Pfister separate hot and cold valves with a diverter in the wall on a line between the hot and cold handles. <S> I have taken this type of tub/shower valve apart and they are pretty simple. <S> I do not see how any problem with the diverter could cause cold water to come from the hot water line. <S> What do you get if you turn on the cold water valve and leave the hot valve <S> shut? <S> Are the cold and hot pipes connected by an anti-scald device? <S> Some models of anti-scald mixing valve are designed to be placed at the output of the boiler, but others could be just upstream of the shower. <S> The fact that the lavatory delivers hot water continuously as expected but the shower does not, could be due to the presence of a hidden mixing valve in the wall behind the shower. <S> The scenario would be that the hot water is so hot that it drives the valve to the cold stop. <S> Try turning on the shower cold water valve first to a moderate or high flow and then metering in increasingly larger amounts of hot water to get to warm. <S> Maybe a relatively high flow rate of cold water from the beginning will prevent the thermostatic mixing valve (if there is one) from being over heated and over driven to the cold stop. <A> (my boiler has one that fails and have to be replaced about once every 5 years) <S> PS: 85°C is a common temperature for radiators and also for storage hot water if the tank is small (with lower setting there won't be enough water for all). <S> Hot pipes are not a big issue: you simply won't be able to touch them for longher than few 10th of second, also some heating systems require them to be un-insulated as rads <S> are sized considering also the heat released by pipes so insulating them may result in cold room. <A> The heater may need a minimum flow rate to go with the water temperature. <S> If that is the case, then running the hot faucet in the basin at the same time as you take a shower may work. <S> You might need to run the cold faucet too to avoid heat damage to the basin drain. <S> Yes, it is wasteful, but at least you will be able to shower in water at a reasonable temperature. <A> Seems to me that you need to call the building and safety department in your jurisdiction. <S> That should take care of the whole problem. <A> My boiler is set at 185, just the way house works. <S> The boiler makes on demand hot water has own coil, and a dual aquastat .The hot water exits the hot water coil. <S> Then went through a mixing valve witch you adjust to temp. <S> I keep water a bit high, like it hot at kitchen sink. <S> Then the shower has a anti scalding . <S> It never was a problem . <S> When i had kids. <S> I put in those scolding shower heads. <S> Hope <S> this is helpful . <S> You do have some thing wrong hope its not straight boiler water. <S> Sounds like boiler needs mixer or just simple adjustment. <S> And shower needs work new shower valve.
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The issue is probably a thermostatic valve on the 'showers' line that is set too low or simply is broken.
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Hanging up large whiteboard in rental property So my roomates and I got a large whiteboard for studying, it measures 1800x900mm and has a stainless steel border and backing. At a guess it's easily 20kg, and we've currently got a rather ad-hoc and precarious set up, as you can see. We'd really appreciate any ideas on how to hang up or support it at eye level with something else. Edit: Should'be clarified, because this is a rental property, we can't drill anything in the walls! Double Edit: Will have to check with our landowner before drilling, but drilling and then puttying might be an option. Cheers! <Q> Buy a small buffet or sofa table cheap - Buy two metal flat rods or even a 6 feet length of 1 x wood - mount the flat rod or 1x to the sofa table as mounting rods for your whiteboard.place the white board on top of the sofa table up against <S> the mounting 1 x's mount the white board to the 1x's you are done.place it against the wall and study till you drop... or <S> until you have had enough caffeine to keep you going another week.. :-) <A> Shop or search for "tension pole" or "spring pole". <S> These can be had with holes for mounting coat hooks, shelves, etc. <S> Two of these can be pressed into service to hold the whiteboard, and you can even add a marker tray. <A> Edit: I posted my answer before the clarification that the walls are concrete. <S> When screwing into concrete, you'll need to add an appropriate anchor first. <S> You could probably fill the holes with epoxy when moving out. <S> There are a couple options, both of which will be very strong since the whiteboard is so big. <S> There are various ways to hang the whiteboard: <S> You can attach regular picture wire to the back and rest that on the screwheads. <S> This will put a lot of stress on the sides of the frame, so if you go this route make sure the frame is sturdy. <S> You can get some alternative picture hangers (the triangular shaped hooks below the spool of picture wire, or the semi-circular hooks below those, or the long bar with the saw-tooth sides towards the upper leftof the image below) and hang those from the screwheads. <S> This will put stress on the top of the frame Attach the whiteboard directly to the wall <S> You could drill through the metal frame of the whiteboard (or build a wooden frame) and screw it directly to the studs. <S> Attach both the top and bottom of the frame, in at least 3 locations along the length of the whiteboard. <S> A hybrid approach Attach some J-hook type brackets (shown to the right of the brass-colored hooks in the image above) to the wall and rest the bottom of the whiteboard on those, and then secure the top to the wall using S-clips (shown on the bottom row in the image above). <S> Alternatives could be mirror clips, screws through the frame, picture hanging hooks, etc. <S> In all of the cases, you're attaching to multiple studs which provides a lot of stability. <S> When you move out, just remove the screws and fill the holes with some spackle. <S> This is considered normal wear-and-tear on a rental in most states in the US, not sure about other countries though. <S> Image taken from Home Depot as an example, not an endorsement. <A> I think the simplest way to address this, would be: Buy two dimensional lumber boards at a home improvement centre (90x45mm or similar) <S> Notch these boards as needed (if you have baseboards on your wall) <S> , so the boards can be placed vertically, flush with the wall. <S> Attach them as two "legs" to the board (so all the weight is transferred to the floor, not to the wall). <S> Attach the legs to the wall with heavy-duty double-sided tape. <S> This tape only prevents the board from tipping over, since the majority of the load is on the legs. <A> Just get a whiteboard adhesive roll. <S> It's really inexpensive and reusable. <S> I've reused mine in three different houses. <S> whiteboard adhesive roll <S> Amazon
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Hang the whiteboard like a standard picture Drill a screw into at least 3 studs (leaving the heads about 1/8" from the wall), and hang the whiteboard from those.
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How can I lower my room temperature? My room has the following window: My room becomes extremely warm whenever the day is sunny (the window is facing the south) and the outside temperature is a bit warn (> 60F/15C). Yesterday for example, my room temperature was over 88F/31C most of the day, despite opening the windows at night and the outside temperature being 70F/21C. Even when outside temperature get colder (I live in Massachusetts and temperatures may vary a lot from day to day, or even within the same day), it takes many hours for my room temperature to get lower. Opening the windows during the day don't help, because the window opening is tiny and as you can see in the picture it opens to the bottom (which means the cold air from outside cannot enter the warm room, since cold air goes down and warm air goes up).). Is there anything that can be done to make the room temperature lower? My 5 ideas so far: Turning on the air conditioning: this isn't possible (quote from the building house manager where I rent the room: "We are still a couple weeks away from the building wide turnover. It has to be a complete Heat to AC Switch in our building (Heat turned off, Chillers turned on), so we have to wait until risk of cold days/nights are behind us."). I also cannot cut the window to install an AC. Placing some "air pump" on the window, i.e. some pipe measuring one or two meter that would go from outside to inside through the window. Does such things exist? The only items I could found so far were window air conditioner, e.g.: However, since the outside air is not that warm I don't need to isolate the window: a simple pipe flushing some air from outside to inside would be enough (the pipe doesn't need to cool the air). Adding more curtains , as it shown below: it helps a bit but not that much. Placing some heat control window films to the window. I haven't tried it yet, I don't know to what extent it would reduce the heat. Should I expect some significant improvement with it? Adding some external window shutter. I'm not allowed to do so: <Q> How about getting a Portable Air Conditioner - these can be moved room to room as long as you have a window you can feed the exhaust out. <S> The link I provide in the example below shows two types of A/C units make sure you get the Portable Unit and NOT a window unit - they are different animals altogether. <S> Or you could buy a fan and place in front of that window. <S> Example of Portable Air Conditioner ( more examples on Amazon ): <A> It's a college, right? <S> Does it have an architecture department? <S> I'd walk through there and talk to random folks or hit their library for best practices in that case. <S> Or perhaps a nearby school that has one... the general public is usually allowed access to halls and specialty department libraries (main libraries, no). <S> You might also ask their facilities department if they have any ideas. <S> Now if you just need to hasten the changing of air, a fit-to-window fan may do the job. <S> They make commercial units, but you can also do the old trick of "fit a piece of plywood, cut round holes and bolt 5-inch muffin fans to it". <S> Otherwise they make proper A/C units which allow ducts to be attached to condenser in/out. <S> Obviously you want to dump the hot air overboard, but you might also try to intake the condenser air from the cooler outside, as A/C is very efficient when condenser input is cool. <S> You also might think about a unit that allows ducting of all 4 inputs/outputs so you can reverse it into a heat pump if you have a cold night. <A> Place a small pedestal fan so that it blows on the opened window pane, and close the room door and any other room openings. <S> The fan will force room air out the lower opening, lowering the air pressure in the room, and drawing outside air in through the upper opening. <A> Looking at that window, it's possible it can be detached--probably some clips along the metal arms that hold it in. <S> This is so the outside window can be cleaned from the inside. <S> If it can't be removed completely, it can at least be adjusted so that it's not as in the way as before. <S> It got me through my Massachusetts college time! <S> https://smile.amazon.com/Bionaire-Reversible-Airflow-Window-Control/dp/B000065DKJ
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From there, a bidirectional window fan can be installed to help circulate air.
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How do you push a cable through a standard conduit inside the wall? I want to expand my network and transmit it wired through my home and office (in another floor). I know the IT part kind of well, but don't know how to push the network cable through a conduit (already know where's the entry and exit). Do you need a special tool for this? <Q> You don't push, you pull. <S> You can tie a bit of plastic bag to the end of the string to make it vacuum in better, but a bare string will work for short runs. <S> Check at the vacuum cleaner end and stop when the string is there. <S> If you need more of a pull, use the string to pull in a rope - either way, attach to the cable and pull it through. <S> Braided hollow poly rope is good, but if the pull is not unreasonable a strong string will work. <S> Tie in and tape on well, keeping it smooth. <S> I have done this rather a lot. <S> The only place I want fish tapes is if I'm trying to hook two of them in a wall without conduit that I can't just rip open for access. <S> Pulling tape is more useful, but likely overkill for a job in your house <S> (it's a flat, flexible tape somewhere between string and rope, often marked <S> so you can measure distance with it, too.) <S> In most cases if a conduit has other wires in it, you will be better off pulling those out (use them to pull in a rope) adding the new cable, and pulling all of them in at once - adding a cable is considerably more difficult with other cables in place. <A> Depends on how bendy the path is, what's in the conduit already, and where any intermediate access points may be. <S> In an empty conduit I can usually push wire around one 90. <S> More than that gets difficult. <S> It's designed to be pushed through conduit containing existing wires. <S> Then you hook and tape your wires to it, wrap this splice with enough electrical tape that it won't snag on anything, and pull the wires through. <S> That's why they call this craft "pulling". <S> There is indeed a whole electrician's truck full of pulling tools - lube, "Chinese finger puzzle" wire grabbers, even power winches. <S> The biggest mistake we often see from DIYers is using the smallest (cheapest) conduit that is legal for his/her wires, and maximum allowed bends... <S> And then needing to call that truck because they've made the pull so difficult. <A> Purchase a fish tape. <S> You can find them at any building center. <S> Ensure it is flexible. <S> Push the fish till it comes out the required end, tape the cable on the end, and pull. <A> The vacuum cleaner trick is already mentioned, excellent!But <S> if you don't have the string, chances are you might have an old (audio) cassette lying around instead. <S> You know the rest! <A> If you do not have a fish tape and do not want to purchase one for a one time use start by tying a small piece of tissue to a string. <S> Place the tissue into one end of the conduit. <S> Use your vacuum to suck the string through the conduit from the other end. <A> If it's a VERY short distance between the entry and exit, try a straightened-out length of coat hanger, some duct tape, and the end of your cable. <S> Fish tape is useful, as the others have stated. <S> I wired a whole 3-bedroom apartment myself once, mostly from the attic. <S> For some of the locations, I was running more than one cable (sometimes up to three) through drilled holes. <S> Instead of using the fishtape multiple times (which becomes more difficult) through the same hole, I'd fish a length of nylon "parachute" cord through a hole, and then duct-tape my wires to the parachute cord at staggered interviews to keep the profile as flat as possible. <S> Then I'd go back to the hole and PULL the parachute cord through.
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Rather than waste money on a fish-tape for a job with conduit in place, just connect a vacuum cleaner to one end and feed string from the other end. I have been known to pull and push the existing wires a couple inches, using the "push" motion to drag the new wires through inch by inch. The first and most obvious tool is a "fishing tape", a stiff spring-steel wire with a hook on it. If you have an assistant, they can push while you pull. You can take it apart and use the tape.
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How should I connect two beams to a post at a corner? I'm constructing a 15'x20' screened porch. I've completed work up to the footings, posts, ledger, and joists. I'm now ready to install 4x4 posts around the perimeter which will hold 2x4 bottom plate, two 2x8 to form the header beam, and a 2x4 top plate. My question is two-fold. First, what is the best height of the posts for an open feel? I'm guessing 8' posts should work for a screened porch but I'm not sure if this is the industry standard or not. Second, I'm not sure how to install the bottom plate and 2x8 header beam in the corner of the porch. When installing the main support posts and beams I was working with 6x6 posts and was able to notch them and place the beams in the notches. However, with the 4x4 posts for the roof I'm not going to have the adequate spacing for notching. I have seen some examples where the corners will have two posts butted together so is can fully support the header beam coming from each direction. Not sure this is best or not. I've searched all over for a diagram example but haven't been able to find one. Any help you can provide is appreciated. UPDATE This question is for rough framing that will be covered with finishing materials. I'm using Simpson strong ties for the post base and non-corner post tops. This framing is to support a gabled roof with a 4/12 pitch. <Q> Beams typically rest on their posts or trimmer studs. <S> This case is no different, really, and there's no rule that says you have to have a chunk of post running up the height of the beams. <S> I'd miter the beams at a 45 degree angle so that each rests on half the post. <S> Screw them together well and toenail them into the post. <S> It'll look something like this: <S> 8 feet is a typical room height (92-5/8" precut studs with 3 two-by plates), and that's what's normally used for porches as well. <S> Your situation may call for something else, though. <S> It depends on may things. <A> We now worry about holding beams down as much as holding beams up. <S> A screened porch is a perfect place for a gust of wind to blow in and have no place to go but push up. <S> I think you need a steel connector between the beams and column....and don't forget to provide a steel connector between the post and foundation. <S> Simpson Strong-Tie makes several connectors for such a condition. <S> The connectors come in "bolted" style, "nailing" style, sized for glu-lam beams, or for 4x or 2x framing material. <S> Also, you can order them for 4x or 6x posts. <S> I'd go to my local lumberyard and ask for Simpson steel connectors or Google: <S> Simpson steel corner connectors... <S> I'd start with ECCLL666 for bolted 6x material for about $16.00 each or RTC22Z for 2x material for about $3.22 each. <S> Once there, they have other "suggested" connectors you might like... <A> You couldn't find diagrams because that's not how it's done. <S> The 6x6s should have gone all the way up to the roof. <S> with the 4x4 posts for the roof I'm not going to have the adequate spacing for notching. <S> 4x4s are inadequate for posts anyway, and only columns with a face width of 5-1/2" (e.g., a 6x6) or larger can be notched. <S> If your question is how do I attach beams to a 4x4 column, I must leave you to your own devices. <S> I can't think of a situation where you'd need two beams to meet a column; one of them should be a ledger board supported by giant angle brackets, while the beam could be notched and strapped to the column or use the same type of brackets. <S> Every diagram you'll ever need: Chicago Deck Code, 2011 <A> Question #1: <S> The height for an "open feel" is a personal aesthetic choice. <S> I had the same desire for a cabin porch, and went with a shed roof sloping down to about 8 1/2 ft. <S> I'm very pleased with the outcome and get regular comments about the airy feeling in the porch. <S> Question #2: <S> That would be less expensive than load bearing Simpson connectors.
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To support the beams at the corner post: Consider adding 2x4 (or 4x4) shoulders (jack studs) to the corner posts, to give the beam-ends a purchase.
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How do you cut threads in plastic coated steel pipe? I'm doing a home improvement project, and I want to bury 10' of 1/2" pipe. I've been to the city and understand the codes to do this legal. In my area, buried pipe has to be either plastic coated or buried within a protective plastic pipe (typically PVC). I've got a couple of pieces of pipe that will need to be cut and threaded. My local big box hardware store (no names mentioned) sell the coated pipe but refuse to cut threads on their expensive Rigid pipe threading machines. They claim the coated pipe clogs up their threading machines, have a nice day. I was looking at using a ratcheting pipe threader tool, but I notice from the Rigid catalog that they recommend a different die set for coated pipe? ref: dies here and ratchet handles here. That reference shows part # 51897 for 1/2 inch "high speed for plastic coated pipe". The whole threading of plastic coated pipe sounds odd to me. I don't understand why plain 'ol pipe threading dies don't just cut right thru the stuff. Anybody know any details here? If I'm careful with plain 'ol dies for black iron pipe work on the coated stuff? Many thanks... <Q> I spent hundreds of hours on a Rigid pipe threading machine and used the same dies for black iron, galvanized, and green coated iron gas pipe. <S> The only issue was the green coated pipe is slightly larger on the O.D. (due only to the coating) so is a bit difficult to get the threads started. <S> With the machine, I could grind a bit of the coating off by levering the dies open a bit, to get the thread started. <S> With hand dies you may have to use a different method to scrape a bit of the coating off the end of the pipe, maybe just use a sharp knife or a file. <S> Once the dies bite they will grind right through the coating, no clogging. <S> The official response will still be "follow the manufacturer's instructions", but I think you will be fine. <A> If this pipe line is for natural gas, I would check with the local gas company for recommendations. <S> Where I live, near Pittsburgh, <S> Pa. the steel connection that the threading procedure produced must itself be covered with a protective coating that wraps around the pipe connection. <S> This is so all the piping is protected from the elements. <S> There are strict codes for running pipe underground. <S> Sometimes, running the new plastic pipe is more economical. <S> Crap, I say, give me the old ways since I am from the old school. <A>
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Get a die for coated pipes and also a jaw for coated pipes, otherwise you might butcher the coating and that's not what you want to do with a pipe going under ground.
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How can I effectively replace sections of 7/8" plaster with drywall? We had to take down several large sections, about 6x4ft sections, in order to run updated electric. The problem is that the 3 layer plaster is 7/8in thick. What is my best solution to put up new even thickness drywall? Most of it will be hidden under our new kitchen cabinets. <Q> Shim out the framing to get the drywall flush. <S> I've often used 5/8" drywall with no shims, depending on the plaster thickness and patch configuration, but otherwise shim it. <S> 1/8" hardboard is cheap and easy to work with. <S> Or rip some scrap lumber to size. <S> Staple it in place and be happy. <S> Update <S> You really want a nicer shape to work with. <S> Snap or trace straight lines, level and down the center of studs. <S> Use ear, eye, and respiratory protection. <A> Exterior wall, no insulation? <S> That's a very expensive wall unless you don't have either heat or air conditioning. <S> 1/2" and 3/8" drywall happen to add up to 7/8" if you're pennywise and pound-foolish. <A> Agree with the advice to remove, insulate, and replace. <S> Couple of notes: add nail plates generously where wiring/plumbing is less than 1.5" from the surface of the stud. <S> Especially if you're tiling (and less so if it's just paint), pay attention to how straight the wall is at the bottom, middle, and top. <S> Shim or shave as needed to get your studs all in the same plane.
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Rip the rest of the plaster and insulate, then drywall with no plaster to match. : After seeing your photo, I suggest re-cutting your edges with a circular saw and abrasive blade set to depth.
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The ceiling I'm painting was never orinally undercoated and now my repaint is looking hideous. I'm doing a repaint on a ceiling ATM and found it looks hideous. Can see every roll line not because of built up paint on the roller edge. I think I'm laying it off properly. I have worked out after a bit of investigation that there wasn't prepped properly originally and they skipped the undercoating process. The original work was done with a spray gun. Does anyone have any ideas how to sort this out? It looks horrible. <Q> You probably did not spread the paint out. <S> Please watch the following video it will help you. <S> How to Paint a Ceiling With a roller Video 1 How to Paint a Ceiling with a Roller <A> How many coats of paint did you apply? <S> The picture looks like one coat was applied. <S> I suggest a 3/4' lambswool roller cover. <S> This cover will allow you to apply more paint and lay it out a easier. <S> Two other suggestions: consider a dead flat ceiling paint and apply your final coat in a direction across your first coat. <S> Changing direction should help avoid lap marks. <A> Use a shellac based under coating like Zinsser B <S> -I-N primer sealer. <S> It has very good stain blocker coverage but hides joint compound "shine-off" and some imperfections in the actual drywall job. <S> It's thin. <S> It is not meant to cover. <S> It is meant to block what is underneath from the topcoat. <S> This is not in lieu of two topcoats. <S> There is no such thing as a one coat paint. <S> Two top coats, always. <S> Primer is actually in topcoating it is just a cheaper product which is why pros tint primer to the topcoat color. <S> (When they advertise primer-paint in one it is an advertising gimmick.) <S> (Always flat for ceiling.)
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The amount of paint you load onto your roller, and the type of roller used, sheen level, and direction your applying the paint, really makes a difference on how well a finished ceiling looks. Thus the fix is three coats, shellac primer/blocker and two top coats of flat.
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What structural elements need for gate in place of fence? I am going to build a gate in place of this fence panel approximately (5' x 5') in size. Currently, there is 2x4 bolted to the house of the left side. The right side is nailed to the perpendicular fence panel (not hanging off a post). It's hard to see but the panel is about 6" behind the post on the right side. At the bottom there is a basement window with a frame around it, which is why i believe they set the panel back and not hanging off the post. It doesn't really matter to me which way the gate swings open. My questions are? What do i need to add to hang a gate? Can i attach another 2x4 over the existing one on the left, to create a 4x4 post? Or do i need to remove from house and replace with 4x4? Can I reuse lag bolt holes for new 4x4? On the right side should i set a post for the other side of the gate to attach. I am looking for the path of least resistance but still have the structural integrity to hold the gate. <Q> Size the gate to clear the window obstruction. <S> From the image it looks like a 4x4 post set flush against the siding is sufficient to clear the window <S> but if there is a light well then you need to leave more space. <S> Also, a narrower gate will look better visually. <S> If this is a 6' tall fence then a 4' wide gate would be typical (gets you close to a golden ratio 1.618). <S> A smaller panel would be used to bridge to the siding. <S> The gate threshold should be anchored with posts buried in the ground on both sides. <S> Gates are heavy and take a lot of abuse. <S> You would be wise not to anchor your gate to either your house or the adjoining fence. <S> This is true for the hinge side as well as the latch side. <S> If you build a narrower gate with a small panel on the house side it should be fine to re-use the 2x4 strip against your house for attaching one side of the panel ( not the gate ). <S> And this avoids patching holes in the siding. <S> Here's what the pro's did on my fence gate in a very similar situation. <S> You're looking at a 4 ft gate framed by 6x6 posts with a small panel attached to a 4x4 post. <S> The total span here is 7 ft. <S> Those are 9 ft posts buried 3 ft in the ground with dry packed cement footers. <S> The two end posts are buried flush against the existing fence and the house (not holes I'd like to dig). <S> Note the A-frame bracing on the gate. <S> This is something you should build into your existing fence panel. <S> You could build a simpler Z-frame brace too. <S> But make sure it's pointed the right way. <S> For the pictured gate with hinges on the left a wooden Z brace should look like the letter Z. <S> With hinges on the right you would form the mirror-image of the letter Z. <A> This other answer looks phenomenal. <S> But I'll take a stab trying to use what it is you've already started. <S> Myself I never use anything less than 6X6 posts. <S> Mainly for aesthetics. <S> 4X4 is structurally just fine. <S> You need a 2X4 that goes from the bottom right corner to the top left corner near the house to do a minimum job structurally for your gate. <S> I'd use 3 hinges. <S> This other picture of this gate is great but you'll have to redo your gate panel a bit. <S> The closing hardware would be on that top left corner nearest the house and connected to a separate 4X4, not the house. <S> Use SCREWS. <S> Nails and wood make no sense at all. <S> Use concrete to set your posts, sonatubes with post anchors are fine but not as stable as the pressure treated post set right in the concrete of the sonatube . <S> Make <S> dang sure you are plumb on the money or your gate will be a headache. <S> Stuff like this <S> you never want to skimp on, reduces the value of the home tremendously. <S> And I just now saw that on the right side you are attaching to the stringer of the fence not the post. <S> You can choose which side the hinges should be installed. <S> If you use the left side for hinges the 2X4 should go from the bottom left of your gate to the top right corner. <S> Undo that 2X4 attached to your home. <S> Looks like that would make sense <S> but there is a hard fast rule to NEVER attach any structural stuff to the home itself. <S> Might even not pass for a permit if you tried to do so. <S> Your panel will have to be redone slightly but you'll be glad you asked this question now, not later! <A> Can i attach another 2x4 over the existing one on the left, to create a 4x4 post? <S> Or do i need to remove from house and replace with 4x4? <S> While you can attach your post to your house, understand that if your posts start to tear loose from the house, you've now damaged your siding, any vapor barriers, and anything underneath. <S> If you damage a 4x4 inside concrete, you pull it out and put a new one in. <S> Much easier to repair and/or replace. <S> Do NOT attempt to use a doubled 2x4 for your hinge side. <S> You need the structure of a 4x4. <S> It needs to hold the weight of the gate. <S> On the right side should i set a post for the other side of the gate to attach. <S> The 4x4 on the other side should be fine. <S> The latch side merely needs to stop the gate <S> This is a simple Z-frame I built this weekend. <S> It's smaller than your opening but it should give you some idea of how this goes from a DIY standpoint. <S> I have two 4x4s set in concrete (18" down for strength), two galvanized hinges and a galvanized latch. <S> For a larger gate, I would highly suggest a handle on both sides as well.
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There should be a post on BOTH sides of a gate. You need a 4X4 post to match the one on the right secured in concrete right next to the house. You NEVER want to connect anything to the house itself.
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How should I handle areas of soft polyurethane left after sanding? Following 24 hour drying, sanding with 120 grit using handheld belt sander on very old pine floor, I vacuumed then damp mopped. Now I have spots of gummy poly throughout the floor. How do I proceed to fix this and move on to the second coat? <Q> Has the polyurethane in areas other than the gummy spots dried alright? <S> If so, then maybe these spots are the result of not stirring the polyurethane enough prior to application. <S> Sometimes the the product settles in it's container so a couple of slow and steady stirs is needed. <S> Second possible cause could be application method. <S> How was the polyurethane applied? <S> Assuming your able to access all spots and that all areas around the spots did dry properly, I would take a rag dampened with some mineral spirits to those spots. <S> Try taking them down to a level that matches the surrounding areas. <A> 120 grit is rather coarse for between coats of urethane. <S> I usually use steel wool, though I realize that's not practical here. <S> Also, a belt sander is not the right tool either. <S> It's far too aggressive. <S> I'd give the floor additional time to harden, then go over it with a random-orbit sander and 220 grit. <S> Once it's fairly smooth, wipe up the dust with a damp cloth and let dry. <S> An additional coat or two should make for a nice finished surface. <A> My other half is OCD and was not happy -entirely- with the finish, So I went a bit hardcore and used a shaving hook to shave off any nuance lumps, hoovered and moped again. <S> Hope <S> this helps
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I had a similar issue when trying to take off a a layer myself, I did it with 180 grit, I'd recommend going over the floor again with a 220 grit again, once gritted, rather then mop straight away, use an industrial hover to get rid of any clumps, when you're happy mop down the floor. You shouldn't have to sand between these subsequent coats.
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Attaching closet door divider to laminate Installers of our laminate floors (over concrete) told us the could not screw into the laminate to anchor the divider without splitting it. The glue they used has already come loose as well as the wood glue we tried. Any suggestions? <Q> Drill oversize holes (3/8" to 1/2" or so) just through the flooring that are still concealed by the divider's base plate, and mount the divider directly to the subfloor. <S> Use a sharp bit, ideally a "pilot point", and a high bit speed with low force. <S> If you don't have a pilot point bit, start with about a 1/8" bit and progress up in size. <A> I would drill a hole straight through the laminate and anchor the divider to the concrete underneath using something like this: or or <S> If the underlay between your laminate and the concrete subfloor is in any way compressible, you should probably add a bushing to prevent you from compressing it when securing the anchors. <S> The bushing should be the same height as the thickness of the underlay + the thickness of the laminate. <A> brhans shows a picture of the correct drill to use. <S> Its called a "masonry bit". <S> Tapcons are the screws to use for conrete. <S> Some packages come with a drill bit. <S> Also if you have to buy a drill because you don't have one, get a hammer drill. <S> They don't actually hammer, just vibrate to help drill into concrete. <S> A corded hammer drill is not very expensive.
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You may want to use nylon or metal bushings to hold the divider at the same level as the floor (to avoid pinching the flooring), and you may need to purchase longer screws.
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Before replacing a thermostat, is it enough to unplug the furnace? We have a thermostat that we need to replace. Our system is I think pretty typical, the thermostat I think controls the furnace and fan, and I suppose the furnace relays controls for the air conditioner. The wiring of the thermostat just has one R wire (Rh) which has a jumper connecting it to Rc. (I'm no expert, but I think this is the situation.) Thermostats are battery powered, I don't see any black wires or C wires. The instruction manual says to turn off the breaker for the furnace before replacing the thermostat. But it's more convenient for me to simply unplug the furnace. (Or, as the plug goes into a remote-operated switch, I can easily turn the furnace/fan system off or on with a remote.) My question is, can I just do that, unplug/switch off the power to the furnace, or is there some other wiring powering the thermostat wires that I would need to go to the fuse box and turn it off from there? Edit: I unplugged the furnace and installed the new thermostat and it worked out fine. <Q> There's really just two concerns: Shock hazard <S> You obviously don't want to get shocked/electrocuted, and only working on wires that are not energized is a good way to ensure this. <S> This is less of a concern on the thermostat end, where you're only dealing with 24VAC, but there is 120V on the furnace control board. <S> Shorting out equipment <S> The other concern is when dealing with the wiring you can easily cause connections between stripped ends, which could do anything from simply turning the fan/furnace/AC on, to rapidly cycling equipment (which could damage it), to actually shorting something out -- such as the transformer itself -- and causing it to release the magic smoke , which renders it useless. <A> 1: You say Unplug the Furnace - that furnace looks like it has FIXED connections back to the breaker <S> and so I do not see you unplugging the furnace from a 240V receptacle. <S> So I am questioning exactly what you mean by Un-Plug the Furnace. <S> The Circuit Breaker is most likely in the breaker panel - sometimes they are with the Furnace / AC . <S> Easy enough to turn off. <S> The reason you do this is two fold. <S> A: <S> Because there is a 24VAC power line coming from the furnace to the Thermostat to control the Furnace/AC . <S> B: You do not want the system to do whacky things as you are disconnecting the old and installing the new Thermostat . <S> What I mean by whackey things is that it could possibly cycle things on and off or reverse the unit when it should not (i.e heatpumps and their controls) . <S> The smart thing is to turn the breaker off <S> it should be around 60 to 100 amps and a dual ganged breaker (2 together) - although it might have 1 flip pole (probably will have 2 flip poles if it is older) <S> - it will take up two spaces in the panel. <S> By doing this you will also protect that brand new thermostat of yours.. <A> Yes, unplugging the furnace will deenergize it. <S> If the furnace has power and the red (power) and blue (common) wires touch it will blow the small fuse on the mother board. <S> As for the plug on the furnace, I have seen furnaces wired this way. <S> It's in-lieu of wiring a disconnect or switch for the unit.
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So long as whatever you do de-energizes the wiring you're working on, you should be okay.
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European Light Fixture in the US - Does it require a ground connection to light up A bit of an oddball question. We bought, through a US distributor, a ceiling light fixture that was made in Europe (Netherlands). It is a metal fixture, connected to the ceiling via a metal chain, which connects to mounting bracket which has a grounding wire attached to it at the bracket only. The lamp wire is 2 wires, one with blue sheathing, one with brown sheathing. The bulbs are E14 which I connected with an e14 to 12 reducer. I checked on EU standards and blue wires are neutral, brown is for line. When I wired it, it did not work but it was not hung at the time (I was testing it). It was sitting on cardboard box that was on the floor. A non-contact tester lit up when near the fixture (all over it) when the switch was on. I immediately disconnected it (after turning off the breaker). This is a well made fixture from a reputable company, wires appear intact, no obvious reason to think there is some kind of a short. It did not trip the breaker when hooked up. My questions are 1) Using a multimeter, how could I test the fixture if re-wired to ensure that it is not actually live (maybe the non-contact tester is measuring a floating ground?)? 2) Is it possible that a fixture will not work without being connected to the "ground?" I have had that happen with a step down transformer which would not work until the ground wire was hooked up. No idea how or why that was that way (if someone knows please let me know). Thank you very much for your help. Lastly, I am contacting the seller to find out if this is approved for sale in the US. The company website does list the US as an area of distribution. I think they also make some of the fixtures for a large US light seller so I'm pretty sure it's ok. Thank you again. <Q> So I've got it working, I'll post a few things in case <S> it's helpful for someone else in the future. <S> Using a multi-meter I tested continuity throughout the fixture on both sides of the circuit (both little round circles at the base of the bulb sockets), and everything was intact - so no shorts. <S> My non-contact tester is a capacitive coupling tester which will detect electrostatic fields in the absence of flowing current. <S> The entire fixture tested "hot" because there was line power going into it <S> but no path outwards (see 3). <S> It was not an energized fixture however as the line power was contained within the intact wiring <S> Not all reducers are created equal (or fit in that particular light). <S> The e14-12 reducer that I was using was not getting good contact with the base of the socket. <S> I took the fixture to a local lamp store where we test fitted 3 different reducers until we found one that worked. <S> At least one bulb needed to be connected to complete the circuit. <S> Since none of the reducers was contacting the socket sufficiently to work there was no circuit made - leading to #2 above. <S> From my reading and discussion with the lamp store people: European fixtures are powered at 220-240V, at that voltage less current is needed to power a bulb which is why they are able to use smaller gauge wiring. <S> In the US, at lower voltage more current is needed to power a given wattage bulb. <S> Wire resistance is pretty much fixed so a higher current over a fixed resistance generates more heat, I believe the equation is power is proportional to IxIxR. <S> In my application this is ok as I am using LEDs at a much lower wattage <S> , I am also not using 240V bulbs which would demand a much higher current flow to work (if they even could). <S> Hopefully I summarized this correctly (and am not wrong). <A> To verify the wiring is correct use your ohm meter function on your meter and verify the neutral is connected to the outside shell of the socket. <S> also verify brown is going to the center contact of the socket. <S> The ground is not required for the lamp to function but would be a good idea to be connected at the top mount if available with a metal fixture. <S> The problem may be in the adapter so make sure to test the fixture without the adapter if the first test shows an open (especially on the center of the socket). <S> Some bulbs and adapters do not screw in far enough to make contact with some fixtures I have seen this on a few occasions. <S> To know if it is legal in the U.S. we would need to know the certification stamp(s). <A> No. <S> No device needs a ground wire to function. <S> * <S> The whole point of a ground is that it's not a conductor in NEC meaning, i.e. does not carry working currents under normal use. <S> If that wire is coded/colored as a ground, this is called "bootlegging", someone is misusing ground as a working conductor. <S> I'm looking at you, <S> all you smart switches which claim not to need neutral and still work with LEDs, and mysteriously will not work if ground is not hooked up, gee... <S> The only exception I can think is a test instrument <S> (e.g. 3-light tester ). <S> Or I suppose a machine might have a protective circuit that tests for the presence of ground before allowing start-up, but I have never heard of such a machine. <S> * except for certain smart switches made to operate on switch loops; they need neutral and bootleg it off ground, and UL permitted this because the amount of current is very tiny. <S> Those smart switches require ground. <S> It is not normal for devices to require ground for functional reasons, only safety reasons.
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If a device needs a wire to function, that wire is a working conductor and can't be a ground.
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Seeking clever ideas \ suggestions to pole mount water timer I would like to mount the timer to a pole, which would be staked into the ground. The timer would sit 10 inches above the ground. I do not have a clear idea what would be a simple effective means to mount the timer to the pole. If parts were available via Amazon or Home Depot that would be great: links are appreciated. Looking forward to clever ideas or similar examples of work (photos). <Q> I have a battery powered timer that is similar to what you have <S> and it looked not so sturdy <S> so I purchased a hose hanger like this and drilled 2 holes for the hose to enter and exit. <S> The small storage space keeps the unit dry and out of site. <S> It still looks new after 3 years. <S> The second unit on the back side of the barn failed in less than 2 years (not protected). <S> Now both have these hose hangers that look nice and the controllers are protected and the grand kids don't play with them. <A> I like Ed's suggestion as it offers some protection. <S> In my experience, "waterproof" electronic gizmos don't tend to retain that quality after extended use. <S> My first idea was to use a faucet on a post as your mounting hardware: <S> You could then mount the timer directly to that, as shown in the product photos : <S> Home Depot links for reference only. <A> 3M Outdoor Mounting Tape is weather capable. <S> I attached a sports logo to a motor vehicle for a friend with the stuff <S> and it's been through a few years of car washes and remains attached. <A> Similar to Ed's idea, you could get a plastic weatherproof junction box - or really any box that could be mounted and drilled through. <S> Then drill some holes through the top and bottom for your connections and seal. <S> This would keep the unit a little better isolated from the weather and you could paint the box, but it might look odd depending on where you place it.
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With respect to the mounting, if the back of the timer is flat, using a double sided foam tape would give you the ability to attach a plastic panel in which you can drill holes to bolt or screw the timer to the post.
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Protect wall behind trash can What can I do to bare (painted) wall behind a trash can to protect it from, well, trash?! Would like it to be washable, obviously, and only semi-permanent as we will not live in this house forever and I don't want it to look too tacky. I considered tile, but that is too permanent. Also considered sheet metal, but I thought that might look too weird. Suggestions? <Q> I'd consider fiber-reinforced plastic panels (FRP or "milkhouse panels" - example ) attached with hook-and-loop tape. <S> Both are available at your nearest home improvement store. <S> It would be very tough and could be easily removed. <A> Putting some form of plastic there, as suggested in the other answers, is a great idea, but there is an even simpler solution. <S> Mask off a neat rectangular area behind the can <S> and paint it with something washable. <S> You can even use a clear "plastic" finish (endless varieties available). <S> If anything gets on it, it can be easily wiped or washed off. <S> When you leave, it can be painted over. <A> The carpet tape was stuck on top of a wall that was covered with wall paper so it is not too hard to recover the wall by replacing the wall paper.
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Many paints are washable. For a similar purpose I used clear plastic carpet runner material which I stuck to the wall with carpet tape.
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How to get a stuck Moen faucet cartridge out? I have a single-lever Moen kitchen faucet that's 12 yrs old and I'm trying to replace the original cartridge. Moen sent a replacement cartridge (1225 B), that includes a removal tool. I've removed everything that is supposed to come apart up to this point, including the retaining clip that holds the cartridge in. The instructions at this point look like this: The cartridge is completely circular, nothing keyed. It has O rings top and bottom to seal it. The removal tool is a plastic cap that fits around some wings in the top of the cartridge. You are supposed to use it to twist the body of the old cartridge. The only obvious purpose for this would be to sheer any built-up scale that might be stuck in the various openings, or just to generally loosen the body. Inside the body of the cartridge, there is a stem that moves up and down for shut-off/flow volume, and rotates for hot/cold mix. Pulling up on the stem is supposed to pull out the cartridge. The cartridge is frozen inside the faucet. The removal tool just deforms. I managed to turn the cartridge body maybe a few degrees and now it is stuck there. I tried using a metal tool to turn it without success, stopping short of enough pressure to damage the plastic cartridge. I've used vise grips on the stem in the up position, tapping them up with a hammer. I've used enough force to knock off the vice grips but the cartridge body doesn't budge. I've also tried a small pry bar as a lever between the vice grips and the body of the faucet. Nothing budged, and I'm concerned that the cast metal body is too brittle, and that using the thin top rim for leverage is likely to break it. There have been some other questions here about removing cartridges. A common theme is using WD-40 or CLR. Aside from the poisoning potential of WD-40, the cartridge is a very snug fit and O rings seal the area where scale could build up. So it isn't obvious how I could get enough to where it could count. Any suggestions for extracting the old cartridge? <Q> There is a cartridge removal tool you can use, I have never failed to get a cartridge out when resorting to it: <S> You can often borrow or rent this tool from a reputable plumbing shop (note importance of "plumbing shop", don't even waste your time at the big-box stores). <S> There are other tools you will see, but they do not work as well as the one pictured. <A> Jimmy Fix-it's answer describes the right tool for the job. <S> In my case, I didn't have access to a plumbing shop and needed to improvise. <S> I came up with a low tech solution that I'll share in case it's useful to others with the same problem. <S> That comes down to finding an area on the faucet body that you can safely push against to apply a lot of upward pressure on the cartridge stem. <S> In my case, after removing the outer shell of the faucet, the faucet body had a solid, wide shoulder about 1 1/2" from the top. <S> I took a scrap of 2x4 lumber and used a hole saw to cut a hole that allowed the board to slide over the body of the faucet and rest on the shoulder. <S> I did the same with a 1x4 scrap that rested on top, allowing the extended stem to just reach the top of the upper board. <S> The large hole is needed in the upper board because the cartridge needs a place to go when you pry it out. <S> The screw that goes into the cartridge stem to attach it to the handle assembly <S> has a fairly wide head. <S> I screwed that about half way in. <S> Then I used a small pry bar, resting on the top board and hooked under the screw to pry up the cartridge. <S> This allows you to apply a lot of force without stressing the cast faucet body, any of the rest of the faucet assembly, or the counter it's mounted in. <S> Once the prying action gets the cartridge to move a little, that breaks up what's locking it in place <S> and it is easy to pull out with pliers. <A> I just had same Moen experience. <S> Position the ends of a good pair of needle-nose pliers on opposite ends of the upper and lower interior tabs. <S> Using your vice grips, turn the needle-nose pliers in the direction which will turn the tabs @ <S> 1/2 inch to the left or right. <S> Remove pliers, do the reverse. <S> This should loosen the interior tabs, so that you can now slowly turn and pull-out the stuck/encrusted housing. <S> DO NOT PULL on the in and out flow valve! <S> You will strip it out, and really complicate the job. <S> Be patient, and work the needle nose pliers in both directions until you get your AHA moment. <A> My father had a hard time pulling the old cartridge coz it stucked and <S> the inner cartridge was broken <S> so there's no way to pull it out <S> , we almost give up and plan to call a plumber to fix it . <S> Last resort , my father used a chisel and hammer to break the cartridge into pieces and it works <S> but you have to be careful not to damage the pipe to prevent leakage. <S> We found out that the rubber on both side of the cartridge are severely adhered into the pipe. <S> Thanks to my super handyman father and my husband who completed the job by inserting the cartridge properly !!! <S> Thanks to Home Depot for providing the FREE lifetime warranty cartridge from MOEN . <S> I saved lots $$$$$... <S> Analiza <A> I had a badly stuck leaky cartridge just now. <S> I got a good bite on it with channel locks, twisted it until it rotated a bit and levered it up with a block for a fulcrum. <S> Since the old cartridge is a throwaway, just don't damage any part of the faucet you'll keep getting it out. <S> Then replace the leaky cartridge with a new one and you're fine. <A> Or you could remove the entire faucet, stick a Phillips screwdriver through the underside and tap the thing out.
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It appears that in general, removing these stubborn cartridges is a matter of applying brute force in a way that doesn't break anything.
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Do I need to turn off my Water Heater when changing my hot and cold bathroom sink flexible water pipes? I need to change the hot and cold flexible water pipes feeding my bathroom sink as they are rusty and ready to burst. The problem is there are no shutoff valves under my sink so I'm wondering what the best course of action is. I've read all the blogs I could find and found the information to be confusing as everyone had a different piece of advice. Some people say that shutting the main valve at the meter and draining the hot/cold water pipes is sufficient as long as the water heater is lower than the lowest hot tap that will be drained (hard to say for me as my water heater is on the ground floor) Some people say that the water heater cold water feeding pipe valve should be shut off Some people say the water heater should be turned off (gas, electricity) as a precaution Some people say the water heater might get siphoned out and therefore present a hazard, etc. Can someone help me knowing that my bathroom is on the first floor and my water heater is on the ground floor? I realize I need a better understanding of the theory so if someone knows where to find some good information please let me know. <Q> The water heater should have an vacuum relief valve, so no siphoning should happen. <S> The water heater is designed to withstand a loss of pressure on the cold side without any problem, no matter if the hot tap is open or not. <S> Consider this: if you close the main shut-off, this has exactly the same effect if the water was turned upstream from you, on the street, or if the water main burst somewhere, etc. <S> So this poses no hazard to you or <S> your water heater, as these things happen from time to time, and <S> your water heater is designed to handle them. <S> Just close your main water shut-off, open the taps you are changing water pipes for, both cold and hot, and let the water drain. <S> Hopefully your main water shut-off is operational, and withing a couple of minutes, water stops flowing, then you may proceed. <S> But wait till the water is completely stopped: any trickle may indicate that your main shut-off does not close properly. <A> My first advice is always err on the side of safety. <S> Others may have other solutions, but I would not want to take chances of having a watery mess in the house, or burning up a water heater element if it becomes drained. <S> You will need to still shut off the water supply to the whole house. <S> Since you say there are not shut off valves at the sink, you will need to stop water flow at the easiest place - the house inlet. <S> You will NOT have to drain the hot water heater if both the inlet and outlet are on the top, or if the outlet is on the top and the inlet is the side or bottom. <S> Why? <S> Because the water in the tank will not be pressurized once the house water inlet is shut off. <S> The hot water will sit in the tank like a cup of coffee sitting on a table. <S> As long as you don't try to refill the cup, the liquid in it will not go anywhere. <S> That's your main example - non-pressurized water won't flow uphill, only downhill. <S> You will have some water drain from the pipe at the sink once you take it off. <S> Gravity will drain most of the water from the line to the lowest open point, i.e. at your sink. <S> If your house is 2 story, there may be water in the lines from above that will drain out. <S> So have a good size bucket handy. <S> There will be no way to avoid some water draining, so have rags too. <S> If your water heater has outlets on the side, you may have no choice but to allow it to partially drain. <S> It will drain out whatever capacity it has until the level goes below the outlet on the tank or the highest water pipe in the walls. <S> After the job is done, the water heater will refill when you turn the house water back on, and then turn the power back on to reheat the water. <A> Don't just turn off the water heater. <S> Turn it off 6-8 hours before the work, so you don't have to worry about scalding hot water bursting out unexpected. <S> You can't fix a serious burn with a mop! <S> Hard to finish the repair too. <S> Also be prepared for the possibility that the shutoff valves won't shut off entirely and may dribble. <S> Which can be super annoying when you're trying to solder. <S> Opening a faucet/spigot upstream or lower should help.
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If your hot water heater has both the inlet and outlets on the top of it, you will not have to turn the power (gas/electric) off, but it will not hurt to turn it off.
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Convert light fixture to receptacle Current situation On my garage ceiling there is a light fixture which has been converted via the adapters pictured. It is controlled by a switch which I don't like because I never want to turn off the garage door opener. A voltage tester shows the screws are hot when the switch is on. It was like this when I moved in. So my first question is -- is this safe/proper? Desired situation I'd like to convert this fixture to a real receptacle using the cover plate pictured. I'd like the top receptacle to be 'always on' for the garage door opener. I'd still like the bottom receptacle to be controlled by the switch so I can plug in a nearby hanging light. Here is the wiring situation: I just wanted to get an idea of how complicated this will be and whether it's a smart and safe upgrade to make. Any feedback would be appreciated! <Q> It looks like you have a standard box and not a light box. <S> So you don't need the light box receptacle cover. <S> You can split the hot side by breaking out the tab. <S> Assuming the nutted blacks run to the switch, you can add another hot and wire it to the top "always-on" outlet, and let the switch power the bottom. <S> The only downside I see to this is they're grounding to the box. <S> If the box is grounded, what you'll need is a grounding clip and then run a wire from the clip to the outlet. <A> Here's what looks like is going on here. <S> You have two Romex going into the box. <S> One is from supply and one is feeding downstream outlets or switches. <S> White is neutral. <S> Black is always-hot. <S> And then one of the cables also has a red, which is switched-hot. <S> So, just as Machavity says, get a receptacle, break off the tab on the "hot" side, pigtail the neutral to one of the screws on the neutral side (since it's already pigtailed), pigtail the blacks to one of the hot screws (since you have to), and connect the red to the other hot screw. <S> Easy peasy, assuming I guessed correctly about the wires. <A> What it looks like in the pictures is <S> Red is Hot from the Black Leads (switched circuit), White is your neutral. <S> Turn off your circuit breaker - make absolutely sure you have no power <S> (if you do not have a voltmeter) - install a light in the socket and turn the light switch on and off several times to make sure you have NO POWER. <S> The Light socket can be removed with its white and red connection leads. <S> The larger spade side of your new receptacle - should be silver screws Neutral Line Connection <S> this is where your white wire from the service connection will connect to. <S> The Brass side is your hot side and should be where the black wire is connected to. <S> Now for the ground lead as has been mentioned <S> - it could be your box has a ground wire <S> and it could be not. <S> You can connect a ground from your receptacle to the metal receptacle box - <S> that does not mean that it functions - but that is how it would normally be connected if the box is grounded, if the box is not grounded then a ground wire should be present in the romex cable a bare copper line.
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In theory, you should be able to add the receptacle without issue and just use a standard outlet cover. Without knowing if the box is grounded, you might not be getting any ground at all if they just screwed it to a wood joist.
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recessed light only works with halogen bulb? My husband and I just moved into a new home and have found that we have two different types of recessed light fixtures. One of types only works with a specific type of halogen flood light bulbs and multiple attempts to buy new bulbs have not resulted in finding a new bulb that will work in the fixture. The label inside the fixture says " Use only PAR-30 Reflector type lamps 75 watts maximum". The bulb that works says PEC PAR38 FL 130V 90W and appears to be halogen with a large brass base. We haven't been able to find replacement bulbs that work in this fixture. Does anyone have any advice on how to figure out what bulbs will work in this fixture? We'd really appreciate any help. Thanks. <Q> It may be a dimensional issue. <S> Incandescent/halogen typically have a long narrow stem. <S> CFLs put a pudgy power converter module right at the bottom. <S> Some LEDs unnecessarily do the same since CFLs do. <S> Often the socket proper is recessed behind a shield or something. <S> When you're screwing in a CFL, it grabs a couple of threads then the power converter strikes and binds against that shield. <S> It feels like the socket has bottomed out snug, when actually the bottom contacts are not touching. <S> And the bulb just doesn't turn on! <S> Check out your fixtures, <S> but I bet that's what is going on. <S> You can change the fixture, alter the fixture, or shop smartly for long-neck LED "bulbs". <S> You probably won't find them in CFL, nor should you look. <S> CFLs are entirely obsolete. <S> What's more, CFLs are particularly unsuited for aimed PAR lighting since they make a blurry clump of non-directional light which cannot be focused via reflectors or lenses. <S> LEDs are the ideal case, as they inherently make a cone of light which is easily focused further via optics, which are near 100% efficient. <A> You have in that fixture a PAR38 halogen bulb that is working. <S> It is a larger bulb than the PAR30. <S> Both of these types use the same Socket Style and so can be interchanged as long as the lamp fits - <S> typically the larger PAR 38 bulb will be available in higher wattage versions - such as your 90 Watt bulb which is way too much for a 75 Watt Max fixture. <S> PAR-30 should not be a problem but given the neck length and the internals of your recess might not be allowing the bulb to seat all the way in the socket and therefore not work. <S> Verify the bulb is able to be screwed in all the way to the bottom ofthe socket to seat. <A> Since my hall, living room, and family room ceilings are 10 feet high <S> I chose the 23 watt ( 100 watt equivalent ) <S> bright white bulbs for the recessed lights. <S> I chose the 18 watt (75 watt equivalent) bright white for all the ceiling fans. <S> Also, I use the "daylight" bulbs for work areas since the light is a brilliant white and great for working. <S> I do not like the yellow cast of the soft white bulbs so they are only used outside. <S> All the fixtures, including ceiling, and table lamps are on/off. <S> Only 2 light fixtures use incandescent bulbs since they are chandeliers and cannot use CFL's or LED's do to their unpleasant look and my wife's opinion, which is OK by me. <S> This may not be the kind of information you are looking for, but it was my solution to my lighting needs and reduced energy use. <A> I had a similar problem. <S> I found that using a BR-30 (particularly the Phillips 65 w equivalent led) instead of an R-30 resolved it. <S> Most of the comments I have seen on-line suggest that the bulbs are interchangeable, but obviously that is not necessarily the case for all fixtures. <S> Apparently, BR-30 bulbs are a bit longer and that additional length evidently allowed the bulb base to make good electrical contact with the center of the fixture.
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I switched all of my light bulbs to CFL bulbs and they work fine.
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Chirping from a hard-wired fire alarm I know that when you hear a periodic chirping noise from smoke detectors, it means the battery needs to be replaced. I had been hearing such a chirping noise in my apartment building for a few hours, and just realized that the sound is not coming from the smoke detector(s), but from the hard-wired horn/strobe device in the hallway. What could be causing this? To be clear, the alarm is not going off - it is making the exact same sound as a dying smoke detector, but from a hardwired SpectrAlert Classic horn/strobe device. We did just have an intense lightning storm in which the neighboring building lost power. Could the panel have been hit by a surge? <Q> They start to chirp when they are not functioning up to spec any more. <S> This can be caused by accumulation of particles on the sensor (from smoke, fumes, etc.) <S> When one of mine starting chirping (single beep every few minutes or so), I took it out and noticed that the install date was about 8 or 9 years ago, for a product that was supposed to last 10 years. <S> You can probably remove it from the base plate and look at the back side. <S> There should be a manufacture date on it and instructions regarding how long the device should last. <S> If it is anywhere near that date plus the expected product life, then replace it. <S> I would replace all of the smoke alarms in the house at the same time if they have similar dates on them. <S> These things start chirping at most inopportune times. <S> (Seems like they know when it is most annoying). <S> The safety of your family is worth it, and knowing that they are all good is peace of mind. <A> If it's managed by a service (like an ADT) I would contact them first. <A> I will admit that it'd be odd for notification appliances to be making noises due to a trouble condition, but it is conceivable that they could do so, especially if the notification appliance circuits are more sophisticated than a simple polarity-reversal system with horns attached. <S> Whoever's in charge of the panel needs to check the annunciators for a trouble or supervisory condition and correct it. <S> It could be a flat battery, damaged wiring, <S> a supervisory switch that's mis-set, or any number of other conditions <S> -- the panel should say more about what precisely is going on, considering this is a central station fire alarm system with a central control panel that will likely have a display, etc. <S> (vs. a bunch of smoke alarms wired together).
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Additionally the system may have actually lost power and is currently running on battery and there is a tripped circuit breaker from the storm. Even the wired smoke alarms have a end of life date. Whoever's in charge needs to check the panel
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How to secure opening to prevent access? We have a 14" space between our garage and our neighbor's block wall. It leads to an alley in the back of our house. It's just wide enough for someone to fit through if they want to enter from the alley. This little opening was, I believe, originally intended to allow water drainage away from our backyard. So, our backyard I kind of graded so that water exits via this side opening, and I need the ground area to still help with this function. How do I secure this gap so that it prevents intruders from coming in AND allow me to access this area to remove debris and weeds? <Q> I'd put a single 4x4 fence post at the alley end (or the other end, depending on your aesthetic preference), set flush on the face with the building wall(s) or recessed slightly and centered. <S> This essentially leaves you with 5" gaps on either side--too small for most people to pass. <S> Paint it to coordinate. <S> Plan view | || gap <S> || <S> || ____ | <S> garage| <S> | | || |___| <S> |___________________________________| <S> | <S> ^ <S> --------- post| | <S> I'd then lay heavy landscape fabric (not plastic) down the entire length of the gap and place 2" landscape rock on top. <S> You should have very few weeds <S> and it'll look finished. <A> The reason for the gap might be fire code - <S> a fire wall does not exist therefore the two are separated by 14 inches.. <A> It will act like barbed wire and will be a deterrent. <S> And I think that per @isherwood water will still be able to drain around the cactuses.
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Place a gated fence door there, whether chain link or wood or otherwise. Another idea may be to plant cactuses there.
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How to clean wood dust without permanently clogging a wet/dry vacuum's paper filter? Can you ever use a wet/dry vacuum cleaner (shop.vac, Kubota, Stanley, etc) to clean wood sanding dust? My one experiment so far resulted in complete clogging of the paper filter after cleaning the dust from hardwood floor sanding. Replacing the dry filter (corrugated paper cylinder on a metallic mesh backbone, ~$20) after each such use is a bit of a stretch, and yet I'm not sure how else I can thoroughly clean the dust left behind. <Q> Having run into the exact same problem, I might be able to make a recommendation to assist you. <S> There are many variations on this theme, but they are all based on the "cyclone" principle. <S> Spinning air cannot hold particles as easily as "linear" flowing air. <S> Physics (SCIENCE!) is your friend. <S> One can build one's own cyclone vacuum assistant or purchase one. <S> Having too many projects not completed or not started, I decided to purchase one, but building one is not all that difficult. <S> Consider searching Instructables for Cyclone Vacuum <S> and you'll discover many options. <S> My purchased unit, from ClearVue Cyclones seems to be perpetually out of stock, although the much higher priced versions are available. <S> A friend purchased a competitor's model, which had a smaller diameter cone and is experiencing poorer results. <S> It appears that the larger the diameter of the entry point and the taller the cone, the better is the separation. <S> As a test, I dumped some powder coating powder on the floor. <S> Starting with a completely clean cyclone bucket, I sucked up the powder with the shop vac attached. <S> A problem with powdercoat powder is that it passed through all but the finest of filter material and clogs the stuff that stops it. <S> My shop vac bucket was clean, while the cyclone vac bucket was dead black inside. <S> Sawdust and metal shaving (my application) don't stand a chance. <S> I added some bracing strips rather than use the supplied fabric strap to attach the vac to the cyclone bucket. <A> They will clog when loaded up, but you can blow (outdoors) or wash them out. <S> The filter material withstands water and can be reused many times for years. <A> Follow the manufacturer's instructions and use a paper (or cloth) bag filter for fine particulates. <S> They are cheap and disposable, and they prevent clogging of the main filter element. <S> Each brand/model uses a specific type. <S> They work great and it is a easy and inexpensive solution.
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I use the "CleanStream" brand filters by Gore available for more popular shop vacs.
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How to calculate the influence on load bearing on beams cut/notched for connections? I have trouble understanding what's the point in cutting beam endings in order to make wood construction connections. Assume a connection of a 50mm x 50 mm beam (green) to a 100mm x 100mm beam (pink) with a leaf connection (my translation for - I guess - the simplest wood construction connection consisting of removing half of the diameter of the beam and putting that part into the counterpart connection cut out). I imagine that the forces where the beams connect are the same as on the whole green beam, but the connection must obviously hold because those connections are used in construction, so why not make the beam only half the diameter large/do for the whole beam what works at the location of the connection? I further assume that there's an impact of the connection cut-out/notch, but it'll be smaller than making only 50% of the bearing load usable (otherwise every wood construction would generally waste up to 50% of its material). How can I estimate this impact. The leaf connection is used in this example in order to reduce the material which has to be removed from the pink beam. This might all be not ideal and not true; it's a question to improve my understanding - I'm not the contractor building the schools for your kids. <Q> You're overlooking a couple of important factors, starting with deflection. <S> Smaller structural members will flex more than thicker ones, especially in the middle of the span. <S> Sag also adds lateral loads to the connections at the end since it they must resist the pull of the shorter curved member. <S> Those connections are the second thing you've overlooked. <S> You do need to fasten things together eventually and butt joinery puts all of the load on the fasteners. <S> Generally two thirds of a beam is quite a bit stronger than two or three nails. <S> It's worth noting that it's fairly common to use angle iron and bolts when the work will be covered up. <S> I suspect that notching wooden members in new construction is pretty much limited to timber frame buildings. <S> It's getting harder to find solid wood beams than it used to be, and modern structural joinery tends to incorporate steel fasteners to protect against extreme weather events. <S> For hurricanes or tornadoes you want the joint tied down; for earthquakes you want it to deform rather than snap. <S> Getting back to your original question, structural engineers have access to lots of data to work on the estimate. <S> They can look up the strength of a given material, average weight of a building per story, strength of a given joint compared, etc. <S> From there it's fairly straightforward physics. <S> Simulation is also a common tool. <S> Once the plans are drawn in CAD you can specify the building and wind loads and get a detailed report on the expected performance. <S> If you're really, really interested Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobby use and will let you run some simulations. <S> You'd have to deal with the learning curve and it's not the right tool to design a building, but it'll do for mucking about with simple joints. <S> (Alternately you might find just the tutorial video on simulation entertaining.) <S> Non-engineers generally rely on experience and rules of thumb (or the building code in these more enlightened times) and gratuitous over-building. <S> Nobody would notch anything as small as you've got in your sketch. <S> In the US they wouldn't be called "beams" either as they're too small. <S> Joists would be at least 150mm thick and wooden beams 200mm or more. <A> Beams are sized based on 1) Deflection, (bending) and 2) <S> Shear. <S> Notches can affect a beam differently in those two situations differently. <S> 1) <S> A beam deflects most at the center of the span. <S> This puts the fibers along the top and bottom of the beam in the most stress. <S> Basically, those fibers along the extreme edges are stressed the most at the center of the span and the least (or not at all) at the ends of the beam. <S> Therefore, a notch at the center of the span (like in the pink beam) could cause the beam to fail, but have no affect if notched at the ends (like the green beam). <S> 2) <S> A beam has the most horizontal shear at its ends and very little at the center of the span. <S> That is to say, when the beam bends, the fibers in the wood want to tear apart mostly at the ends and has no stress in the exact center of the beam. <S> You can see this by stacking some boards flat between two supports and then standing on them. <S> You’ll notice that the boards want to slide past one another at the ends, but they hardly move at the center of the span. <S> Summary: <S> Notching a beam does not affect its performance, unless it’s stressed to its maximum strength. <S> Beams with greater fiber strength can hold greater loads and therefore take a larger notch without failing. <S> These fiber strengths are known for each species and grade of lumber and therefore can be calculated to determine maximum allowable notch sizes. <A> The lap joint is to position the top surface of both beams to the same level, and to provide a common surface for fasteners. <S> The ends of most beams can be reduced some without diminishing the maximum load capacity - usually found at the middle of a beam.
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If you notch the center of the beam, you’ll have no effect on the horizontal stress, but if you notch the ends you’ll greatly affect the horizontal shear.
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gravel under concrete slab? is it absolutely required? so, I have a post-frame shed, 12x16. there are posts at 6' on the short sides and every 4' on the long side. posts are set ~18" below grade, on a 2" cap of cement over a few inches of well compacted gravel, holes were all about 27" or so, 2x6 girder runs level at the top (very level all the way around) around base,ok, so, basically I have ~5.5" to grade from bottom of 2x6 girder to top of board, and the Ive got posts set in concrete, at 24" from the top of that boardso I want to fill that in with concrete, I could put gravel in, say 2" and 3.5" of concrete over that. Its about 3.75 cu yards of crete, or like $400It will cost $100 for gravel to fill in 2", but my crete is still only a little cheaper, and it will be a thinner slab. I could put gravel in, say 2" and 3.5" of concrete over thator just full 5.5" of creteor I could do lot of gravel and a 2" top coat over that with a bunch of steel and fibers, Its just a shed, so Im not too worried about it, I'll put steel mesh in and probably fiberglass to control cracks and run a groover down the center. Point is, can I get away without using gravel and just lay plastic down and pour a slab, or is the clay soil going to destroy it if I dont have a couple inches of gravel. I am not, going to dig this down deeper, or pour higher that the girder. Its 5.5" of space, with a few low spots I can rake out. It much faster to do a one day pour so I can put my books back in and my tools to keep them dry, so full 5.5" concrete is good and fast, but a couple inches of gravel would be nice, but is a total extra set of work for little gain thoughts? (yes, I should have done this in a different order, it was not an option at the time) <Q> Is gravel absolutely required <S> NO <S> but it is a good idea. <S> Most the time i see slabs poured directly on earth the owners are doing it themselves and the base is not level or has holes. <S> If a slab is not a uniform thickness this can cause cracks even with reinforcement of fiberglass, mesh or rebar. <A> Summary: <S> It depends what you need: gravel can provide a capillary break (preventing water from wicking upwards), can facilitate drainage, and can facilitate gas movement (like radon). <S> So in some cases, these are not always important factors. <S> According to BSI-003: <S> Concrete Floor Problems , Joseph Lstiburek, May 26, 2008 : (click through to freely read full article - entertaining as well as informative!) <S> The plastic sheet also acts as a capillary break. <S> We can use crushedstone as a capillary break if there are no fines in the crushedstones —but the stones don’t act as a vapor barrier. <S> So it is common touse <S> crushed stones with no fines as a capillary break—and then add aplastic sheet over the top of the stones in contact with the concreteas a vapor barrier. <S> Or just use the plastic sheet to do both—be thevapor barrier and the capillary break. <S> So why not just use plastic andnot stones? <S> Well the stones can also provide drainage (i.e. be a“drainage pad”) and facilitate soil gas control <S> (i.e. “radon venting”)by creating and extending a pressure field that can be coupled with avent to the atmosphere. <S> Depending on where you are you will often seejust plastic or plastic with stones. <S> Below grade slabs tend to get thestones and plastic approach. <S> Slab-on-grades tend to get the plasticonly. <S> These concepts are also discussed further in the case of basements in BSD-103: <S> Understanding Basements , Joseph Lstiburek,October 26, 2006. <A> The clay won't do anything to the slab that it wouldn't do to the gravel. <S> It's ok to pour on the clay, except....... <S> If you would have said anything but "installing it on clay", I'd say "no problem ". <S> However, the problem with clay is water will not percolate down and away from the slab. <S> We don't like water laying on the bottom of slabs because it will "wick" up through the slab...especially if there's heat in the building. <S> Your situation is a little different, I think, because it's a "shed". <S> I doubt if you're going to install a floor covering. <S> If you are, then the moisture wicking through the slab could cause the flooring to come loose. <S> If you're not installing a floor covering, then you may see a damp spot from time to time if you live in a damp region. <S> By the way, I would not install the mesh in the slab. <S> They never install it in the correct location (in the middle of the slab) and then it causes the slab to crack. <S> They lay it down on the ground before the pour and then tell you they will use hooks to pull it up during the pour. <S> It can't be done. <S> So, then the steel is on the bottom and makes the slab shrink less than the top of the slab. <S> That's a crack for sure. <A> I used to pour concrete working for a mason. <S> Yeah we were standing in it <S> BUT one guy would pull it up while another Screeded with magnesium 2x4. <S> Another guy or 2 behind with come slings pushing Crete behind screed. <S> Yes it is difficult if you don’t pay attention <S> but it is possible to pull up the wire mesh as you work your way back from the screed. <S> And I’ve jack hammered out a fair amount of old slabs and found the wire is not sitting on bottom of slab. <S> You definitely can end up with this happening if your not attentive to it <S> but it is possible to pull the wire up. <S> Buy flat wire and tie ends together. <S> Rolled wire is a royal pain to wrestle with.
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No, gravel is not mandatory in all cases; but it can be very important in others.
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Is the wall between a home and an attached garage built as an "exterior wall"? I have an attached garage. There is an exterior-rated door between the garage and the living space. Should the entire wall be built as an exterior wall, as far as sheathing, width, etc? Is there a code standard that defines this? I'm in Oregon, USA, but am looking for a general answer. <Q> No, the wall between the home and garage is designed and built as an interior wall. <S> HOWEVER, it is a fire wall. <S> Your code in Oregon requires 1) fire rated door between the spaces, and <S> 2) fire rated wall "assembly", and 3) insulation. <S> 1) <S> The door needs to be fire rated door and frame, which can be a solid core door and a solid wood frame (not a frame with an applied stop). <S> (See R302.5.) <S> 2) <S> The wall needs one layer of 1/2" gypsum board on the GARAGE side of the wall... <S> other side of wall doesn't matter and 5/8" gypsum board on the ceiling of the garage if habitable rooms are located above the garage. <S> (The building department is worried about a fire starting in the garage, not vise verses. <S> They're protecting the house.) <S> (See Table 302.6.) <S> 3) Insulation is required for the building envelope. <S> No other Code items are required for this wall, including shear wall, structural wall, etc. <S> HOWEVER, remember that the garage cannot open directly into a sleeping room (bedroom). <A> IRC R302.6 defines the applicable separation requirements prescriptively -- it calls out 1/2" drywall as the garage-side finish as acceptable for the application, while R302.5 requires a solid wood or metal door of not less than 1 3/8" or, equivalently, a 20min fire rating -- which is about the same as the finish rating of 1/2" drywall -- for a house-garage door. <S> So, as far as I can tell, no , you can use standard interior non-load-bearing wall construction for <S> a house-garage separation provided the door and garage-side drywall meet Code and the house structure allows for it. <S> However, if it was my house, I'd go significantly more conservative and use a 60-minute rated door and frame, as well as 1-hour fire-rated/smoke barrier construction -- the house/garage wall is <S> intended to be a firebreak of sorts, and <S> 1hr construction is not that much more costly than a standard wall. <S> Of course, since this the house/garage separation is typically part of the building envelope, this means that it needs to function as a thermal, air, and water/vapor barrier as well, which implies that it needs to be insulated and barrier sealed. <A> Because it separates two occupancy classifications, it requires a fire separation assembly according to a matrix you can find in the building code, or residential code. <S> The fire rating necessitates a rated solid core door with weather seals and an automatic closer. <S> It's not because it's considered the "exterior". <S> There is no precise definition of an exterior wall. <S> The building envelope generally refers to the exterior surfaces. <S> For instance, a sun room, or an atrium would be the exterior face, but not the building envelope. <S> Generally the envelope is synonymous with the assembly between the weather membrane (the felt paper) to the finished inside surface. <S> This could include enclosed air as an assembly item, which is the case with an attic, subfloor, and of course a garage.
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The garage to residence wall is a separation wall and a part of the envelope of the conditioned space. However, you could in some cases have the envelope and the exterior wall as two different assemblies.
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How do I bend EMT conduit to a broader radius? I work a lot in EMT conduit. I have a 1/2" conduit bender that bends to a 5" radius, and a 3/4" conduit bender that gives a 6" radius. I also find bent pieces of conduit around the lodge that have a somewhat larger radius than that. Suppose I want a larger radius, say because a 12" or 18" radius will suffice in my application, and would make pulling easier. Or in one case I need a larger radius (ceiling line to ceiling line in a corner) to avoid blocking a conduit body (wall corner to ceiling line) that will be effectively under the radius. Is that possible and how can I do it? <Q> Below is a picture showing the minimum radius bend you currently achieve with your hand tool (picture on top) and then using three segments of bending coupled with two straight lengths to approximate a larger radius (picture on bottom). <S> My example in the second picture only shows 5 segments since the picture was made relatively quickly in paint, but the more interspersed bent/straight segments you have, the closer you will get to approximating a true circular radius. <S> However, maybe you don't truly need a semicircle in all cases and just a few segments would do the trick. <S> Other alternatives I can think of include: Trying to create your own hand tool for achieving common bends (if you're bending the same larger radius often -- perhaps something like an 18" car rim would work) <S> Investing thousands in a pipe bender that can handle conduit and do very smooth arbitrary bends. <A> I need a larger radius... <S> how can I do it? <S> Find a robust sacrificial round object of suitable diameter to achieve your desired bend radius, you can call it a form post <S> fill the conduit with sand, I use masking tape to contain the sand whilst bending secure the conduit (how you secure it will depend on where you want the bend and what you are using as the form post) <S> bend the conduit by hand around the form post; <S> look ma, no kinks <A> You will have to do multiple bends. <S> Say 3, 30° bends or 30, 3° bends. <S> There is a formula to figure out how much space to put between them. <S> It goes as follows; <S> 1.57 • <S> radius ÷ #of bends <S> So 1.57 x 12 ÷ 30=.628 <S> Therefore if you mark out a piece of pipe with 30 marks that are spaced 5/8" apart and bend on those marks to 3 <S> ° each you will achieve a 90° bend with a 12 "radius. <A> You can also freehand it. <S> I did these free hand with the Bender handle resting against the ground
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Using the same hand-bending tools you already have, you can approximate a larger bend radius by leaving short sections of straight conduit in between multiple bends. just bend a little bit and work your way down bending a little bit just not all the way to the 90 degree stopping point on the Bender!
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How do I repair a broken garage door opener arm bracket? The bracket that connects the push arm of our garage door opener is getting ripped off from the door (see picture below). All screws, except a bolt at the top of the bracket are detached. How can I fix this if I do it myself? <Q> You might be missing the point. <S> Most people have only ever pushed buttons and never actually lifted a garage door, so it's easy hold the belief that a garage door is a massive 200 pound behemoth that can only possibly be opened with a burly machine. <S> That's absolutely untrue. <S> Garage doors are balanced by their springs. <S> Opening forces are only a few pounds. <S> When a power opener lifts a door, it's more like walking an old lady across the street. <S> At least when things are working. <S> Before openers, if a garage door was having problems, you'd know it immediately because you'd feel it bind, and you'd fix it early. <S> Now that we push buttons, the lifter just muscles the door through the defect, which of course does nothing to improve the situation. <S> Eventually the lifter stalls, the lifting arm breaks, or the door tears itself apart . <S> That last case is super bad: Since doors amount to a spring balanced against gravity, doors contain lethal amounts of energy at all times . <S> If a door fails, it can kill you. <S> So when a lifting arm breaks, that's your deity looking out for you. <S> Think of a weak lifting arm like a fuse that protects your wiring, or like the spillway that protects the dam. <S> You don't want to defeat that. <S> Fix your door. <S> Something is binding seriously in the door. <S> The door is trammed due to a broken lifting cable, a spring has broken, rollers are off their track or seriously damaged, etc. <S> Focus on that. <A> If cosmetics are not important to you, it would be useful to mark the bolt locations and drill through to the outside. <S> Adding external bolts with washers to spread the load would return the bracket to near-original operating status. <S> If cosmetics are more important than noted above, a strong adhesive would enable the forces to be spread over a greater area than the original installation provides. <S> A polyurethane adhesive such as Gorilla Glue would give strong bonding, but you'd have to have some way to compress the bracket against the door while it sets. <S> It's difficult to determine from the photo, but you may have a wood garage door. <S> In that case, you should remove the painted surface under the bracket to provide a better bond for the adhesive you select. <S> Epoxy adhesives with longer cure times, upwards of 30 minutes, will provide more strength than the much weaker five minute versions. <S> Apply an even layer of glue and secure the bracket as firmly as possible to the door. <S> I would consider that a bracing timber, such as a 2x4 of sufficient length could be used to apply pressure to the bracket while the adhesive sets. <S> Returning the bolts to the original location, with additional adhesive in the bolt holes will also help. <A> I'm assuming the panel in the middle is thin <S> so I would drill four holes in a square pattern into the bottom flat section of the bracket and fasten to the door with wood screws. <S> I would do the same at the top flat section of the bracket. <S> It looks like the top of the bracket is tucked under the metal brace at the top. <S> If that brace has pulled out at all drill holes in that every four inches to fasten it back to the door. <A> I've had a similar repair necessary after a cable to the door spring broke. <S> First things first, with the garage door closed disengage the opener's carriage by pulling the cord connected to it. <S> Then by hand open and close the garage door feeling for any defects or excessive weight. <S> If there are any anomalies, have them fixed.
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To fix that bracket, I used two pieces of perforated angle steel bolted through the original bracket and door panel.
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Australia: Which wire is hot / active and which is neutral? Here's a photo of wires coming out of my ceiling (grey, yellow/green and black) and the wires going into a ceiling lamp (brown and blue). So in Australia the general colouring codes go like this: Brown: Active / hot Blue: Neutral Green/Yellow: Earth (ground) I didn't do the wiring in the picture, it was there when I bought the house, but when putting up new lights I want to make sure it's done right. Obviously this is a sloppy job with the ground wire missing! My question is: The grey and black coming out of the ceiling, which is active/hot and which is neutral? For obvious reasons I don't want to invert the phase by switching around hot and neutral. <Q> In Australia and New Zealand, the general rule is that any wire with green on it has to be earth, any wire with blue or black on it has to be neutral, <S> any wire that does NOT have blue, black or green on it has to be phase (hot). <S> So in this case, the pale grey wire from the ceiling is the phase wire, and it's correct to connect it to the brown wire in the lamp, as shown in your photo. <S> Also, if the lamp doesn't have any metal parts within normal reach, then it typically won't have an earth connection. <S> In that case, there's nothing to connect the green/yellow wire from the ceiling to, and it's perfectly correct to leave it unconnected. <S> I believe the wiring in your photo is correct, and up to code for Australia. <S> It's not a sloppy job at all - it looks quite professional to me. <S> Having said that, I am neither a lawyer, nor an electrician, nor an Australian; so please do not consider this to be normative advice about the Australian electrical code. <A> So after a little research I found out that there's a colour code for older installations: <S> Black: <S> Neutral Grey: <S> Active / hot Yellow / green: Ground (earth) <S> And for modern wiring: <S> The active wire (high potential) is coloured brown (used to be red). <S> The earth wire is striped green and yellow (used to be only green). <A> Use a multimeter. <S> It's almost certain <S> the green/yellow is ground. <S> The one that gives zero volts to ground is neutral. <A> Confused me for a moment, as US uses the opposite, but black here in Oz is Neutral in the wall, so connects to light blue in the device. <S> White in this case is the SWITCHED active, where red (active) does down to the switch, and white comes back. <S> It goes to the brown. <S> Blue can also be used as a phase, in which case the colours are red, white (or yellow in old systems), and blue (often darker).
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Which ever wire gives you voltage to ground is hot. The neutral wire (low potential) is coloured blue (used to be black).
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If a light bulb is dead, does it still consume electricity if the switch is in ON? It's been a week since a light bulb in the bathroom died. I'm wondering if the bulb is dead, does it still consume electricity if the switch is in ON? The light is completely dead, no light whatsoever. <Q> It depends on the type of bulb. <S> Regular incandescents won't consume any electricity if the bulb is dead, since there's no continuous path for the current to take. <S> It's just like an open switch. <S> With CFLs and LEDs, it depends on why the bulb burned out, but in general they will consume some amount of electricity even when burned out. <S> Some CFLs may even consume up to 50% as much as a good bulb (older link, but a lot of burned out bulbs may be old). <S> Newer bulbs may have circuits which eliminate most electricity usage on dead bulbs, as this answer from the electronics stack shows. <S> Smart bulbs have additional electronics, and so would consume even more electricity than an equivalent non-smart bulb, assuming of course that it's not the smart electronics that died. <S> The only way to be sure is to measure the usage, with a device like a Kill-a-Watt meter. <S> You would need to install the bulb in a lamp or other fixture with a plug. <A> If it is a true incandescent light bulb: <S> NO, apart from very very minor losses (through insulation imperfections and transmission line effects) due to the fact that a longer run of wiring is now live. <S> In addition, if it is an old school flourescent fixture: Very minor losses due to EMI filtering circuitry. <S> In addition, if it is a LED bulb using a capacitor-based passive power supply: Depends on how the LEDs itself failed. <S> LEDs can fail in a way that they still generate heat (or even pose a short circuit, which would put all the energy into the current limiting circuitry) but no light. <S> In addition, if there is any active electronics inside (modern LEDs or CFLs), it depends on how these failed and/or react to failure of the actual lighting component - no general statement possible without knowing the exact circuitry. <A> Nope. <S> Basic principles of electricity: electrical current doesn't flow through an open circuit (at least not at the voltages a residence sees). <S> When a bulb burns out, the conductive path through the bulb is broken and the circuit becomes open - effectively an infinite load. <A> Well we've learned one thing the word depends is the most commonly used verb in our industry. <S> Incandescent of course not. <S> Any lamp using a magnetic ballasts (oldstyle for any fluorescent or low and high pressure gas lamps) is an autotransformer and power will pass through it even though there is no load and <S> like mmathis has said could be up to 50%. <S> Newer Electronic ballasts and drivers for LED's have the ability to sense whether or not there is a load and shut down. <S> So if all lamps burn out, it will use some trace power but not enough where I would be concerned about usage. <A> There is one scenario I don't see mentioned: Christmas tree lights. <S> Between the eras of the old large bulb Christmas lights and the "modern" LED lights there was a period of small incandescent lights. <S> Typically 10-30 small incandescent bulbs would be strung in series on a string (sometimes with several series strings physically assembled into a longer string). <S> Basically, at in the base of each bulb was a small glob of conductive material with carefully chosen characteristics. <S> If you had a 10-bulb string of 12-volt bulbs, for 120v total, the conductive glob would only draw a small amount of current and not get very hot. <S> But if the filament of a bulb burned out then almost the entire 120v would be applied across the conductive glob and it would carry 10 times the current and (if everything went as to plan) get hot enough to "melt" (change phases somehow). <S> When it melted, it's resistance would drop to near (but not quite) <S> zero, and the defective bulb would be effectively shorted out. <S> So a Christmas tree lamp of this style can be consuming a small amount of power when "burned out", whether the "glob" is "melted" or not.
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Since the lifetime of these tiny bulbs was unpredictable, and since if any bulb in a series goes out the entire string goes out, a technique was developed to tolerate a few dead bulbs in a string. Same as if a breaker were to open.
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Lock can be opened with credit card even when deadlatch is fully depressed I just installed a standard deadlatch, very much like this: The problem is, it can be opened from the outside with a credit card. Of course, a properly installed deadlatch should make this impossible. When the deadlatch is depressed, the latch should not be able to retract. But when I hold the deadlatch down with my thumb and wiggle the latch, the latch eventually retracts. It has nothing to do with how the strike plate is installed or positioned on the door. I can do it without ever involving the door or strike plate. I can just use my hands. It's very repeatable. Just hold the deadlatch down, press and wiggle the latch, and it retracts, every time. Does this mean I have a faulty deadlatch? How could a deadlatch malfunction in this way? UPDATE: I have to use a latching lock for this door. That's part of the users' requirements. So a deadbolt is not an option.Covering the gap between the door and frame might be a good idea for preventing the credit card move. However, what I'd really like to know is how a deadlatch could malfunction in this way to begin with. <Q> If the strike bolt can be depressed by direct pressure when the small strike is not fully extended, then the lock is poorly made or broken. <S> Replace it. <S> You should consider using a lock of higher quality. <S> If this lock has failed, then perhaps all other instances of the same make and model are on the verge of failing. <S> In any case, test the lock before installation. <S> If you really want to know the mechanical failure mode, you'll have to take the broken lock apart, and guess how it should have worked. <A> If you look close you'll notice two "strikes"...a big one and a small one, side-by-side. <S> The small one keeps the big one from moving, when it's depressed. <S> Maybe the small one is NOT being depressed when the door is in the closed position. <S> Use a strike plate that makes the small one depress when the door is in the closed position. <S> Check the alignment with the strike plate and make sure you don't have too big of gap between the door and frame. <S> If you can still open it with a credit card, then it's broke. <A> A dead bolt lock requires a key turn to secure the door from the outside. <S> It can be secured from the inside either by rotating a knob or require a key. <S> In either case the door will not lock without some intentional human intervention. <S> They are not easily forced to the open position by credit cards, screwdrivers, slimjims, etc if they are properly secured. <S> For safety reasons some local ordinances prohibit the use of double keyed (a key must be used to unlock even from the inside) dead bolts in homes.
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What you should be looking for is a "Dead Bolt" lock.
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Can you tile on finished plaster wall in a shower? My house was built in 1925, it has plaster walls. The area around the bathtub/shower is only tiled halfway up the wall. We recently hired someone to finish the tiling up to the showerhead, and he placed the tiles directly on the wall. I'd assumed he would cut out the wall and put in cement board or something. It appeared that he did no waterproofing before adhering the tiles. Is this ok? Is it ok to install tile directly on plaster walls in a shower? He also cut a hole into the wall to build a box for shampoo and whatnot, and he did this with wood. I am worried about having moisture problems as a result of this. I hired this tiler in a hurry, and did not do much research. I'm not sure what I was thinking. <Q> I have repaired tile jobs that were over 20 years old that the tile was applied directly to regular sheetrock and plaster walls. <S> This was back in the 80's. <S> More recently I have seen some contractors still put tile up with out a backer board to save $ for the owner especially for flipping a property. <S> Is it the best way? <S> NO. <S> Will it work? <S> Yes. <S> Maybe several decades if well sealed. <S> All the frame work around showers and tubs I have installed has been wood, again if sealed it will last for quite a while if there is a slight angle to prevent water from pooling on the ledge or box. <S> You should have received a quote prior to the start of work that you agreed to (the law in my state) <S> it should define the scope of work and materials. <S> For what it is worth if cement backer is not included the contractor may be matching the existing tile job. <A> no plaster is NOT waterproof I've seen problems with it exposed to water, <S> see: <S> http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-waterproof-plaster not nearly as bad as wood though. <S> also the recess should have been waterproofed. <S> trouble mostly proves where water consistently contacts or pools. <S> I've needed to fix bad damage where waterproofing was left off of shower walls. <S> but damage is typically much worse on horizontal surfaces with poor waterproofing construction. <S> though it's reasonable to believe you won't have problems at all as this work seems to have been done at an elevated level.but absolutely keep water out of that recess. <A> In this case, problematic areas are in the corners. <S> In an old construction, or wooden construction, walls can move ever so slightly relative to each other. <S> Tile grout is not flexible, and a crack can form in the joint in the corner, which lets water through. <S> Joints on flat surfaces are much safer. <S> So you should check your corners every few months, <S> just look at them up close and run a fingernail along the joint to check for cracks. <S> The bottom of the recess for the shampoo bottle is a potential problem area too. <S> It's a pity the guy didn't waterproof, it isn't that expensive or time consuming...
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It used to be very common to put tile up on whatever the wall was and seal the the tile.
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Both prongs of an outlet carries live electricity of a switched plug I live in an old house which was build in 1920s. On the hallway, there is an outlet and a ceiling light which are both control by one switch. Recently I use contact pen style tester to check the outlet. I found out both prongs of the outlet carries live electricity at the moment the switch is at it's OFF position. When the switch at the ON position, one side of the outlet is hot, the other side is neutral, or it carries no electricity. I decide use a multimeter to measure it's voltage reading of the switched outlet. when the switch is at its ON position: I put red probe of the multimeter into Hot, the black probe into Neutral,the voltage reading: 120 volts when the switch is at its OFF position: I put the red probe into Hot, the black probe into Neutral,the voltage reads: 2.8 volt I put red probe into Hot, black probe into D-shape prong(Ground)the voltage reads: 0 volt I put the red probe into Neutral, black probe into Groundvoltage reads: 0 volt I believe the Ground is not grounded, and there is no neutral wire when the switch is at OFF position I use a long extension cord, plug it into an outlet of another room, to bring the neutral wire next to the outlet for testing. I put red probe into the Neutral prong of the extension power cord that pluged into an outlet of another room when the switch at its ON position:Hot prong of the outlet: reads 120 Volts (hot to Neutral of a different outlet)Neutral prong of the outlet: reads 0 Volt (Neutral to Neutral of a different outlet) when switch at OFF position:Hot prong of the outlet: reads 120 Volts (hot to Neutral of a different outlet)Neutral prong of the outlet: reads 100 Volt (Neutral to Neutral of a different outlet) The conclusion:the switch, the outlet, and the ceiling light, work normally. The switch controls ON and OFF of the light and the plug. BUT, when the switch is at OFF position, Both prongs of the outlet carries live electricity, one prong with 120 Volts, an other prong with 100 Volts' Is it normal? or is it dangerous? edited as Harper suggest, thank you Harper. Thank you, Retired Master ElectricianThank you, KrisThank you, Ken My problem is solved now. Kris is right.In old connection, the hot wire was not switch, instead, it switched the neutral.I rewire the circuit, connect hot wire to the switch, twisted the neutral wires together and cap it. After rewired the Outcome:When switch OFF: Hot to Neutral reads: 0. with pen tester, both prongs unlitWhen switch ON: Hot to Neutral reads: 120 volts, with pen tester, Hot prongs lit, Neutral prongs unlit Thank you. All. <Q> Houses of that age will not have a grounding system. <S> Also houses that age have switched neutrals. <S> Meaning the neutral was switched instead of the hot. <S> Back in that time no one really saw that as a problem until it lit up enough electricians to become something that needed to be changed. <S> By the way I don't think the first NEC didn't come out until somewhere around 1927. <S> So you might want to get with someone and make plans and a budget to rework the electrical in that house because I am sure it is full of surprises. <A> No it is not normal. <S> Your "neutral" (larger prong of receptacle) on the outlet should always be a neutral at 0V (sometimes 1.7VAC because of inductance). <S> Your hot is supposed to be what is switched. <S> Is the outlet wired through the light fixture or direct? <S> The neutrals are wired directly back to the circuit panel. <S> So when a tester is plugged in it looks right to the tester [Completely wrong - against code and Unethical]. <S> You stated: one prong with 120 Volts, an other prong with 100 Volts Measuring form where to where ? <S> What it looks like is you have two hots - by the line with 100V <S> is what is bothering me <S> - it must be passing through something - because there is a voltage drop of 20V (perhaps it goes through a light bulb.) <S> The line with 100V is the line that I suspect is incorrectly wired. <A> I would suspect the 100 volts to be produced from a switched neutral. <S> I don't think it is a fire hazard (insurance companies may disagree) <S> but it does create headaches for electricians who do not turn the breaker off while working on a light they assume is off because the switch is off
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The ground is normally wired back as well - however some people try to get around that by connecting the neutral to it In that era, it was not uncommon to switch the neutral instead of the modern, better and safer practice of switching the hot. Normally (when properly wired that is) the hot goes through the switch and out to the outlet.
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How do I remove this recessed light bulb? This is a small recessed light in my new house (still figuring out all the nuances of it). How do I get the bulb out of this recessed fixture in order to replace it? It looks like there is some holder around the outside, but not sure how it works. <Q> That conical thing in the ceiling <S> and it's white flange that fits against the ceiling will typically pull down and be removed. <S> It should have springy wire fingers that fit up into part of the fixture. <S> Once you have that out of the way the bulb will be easy to access. <A> Generally, the "trim ring" (white part on the ceiling surface) pulls down, often taking the black interior part with it - then there are spring legs you can squeeze to release from slots in the fixture <S> "can" to get that out of your way. <S> If someone painted aggressively and ignorantly you may need to break some paint to get the trim ring to move. <A> Push up and twist on the bulb - there is a by pin connection for the lamp - sometimes these things have a rubber tool like a dart gun dart - you stick it to it , push and twist. <S> Take a look around your new home - the builder may have left it in one of the drawers or with a kit of stuff. <S> That is probably a GU10 base bulb. <A> I would bet you have Halo H7LVICT. <S> The entire 6" trim is held up by two metal springs that allow the trim to remain snug in place but also allow it to be pulled down if necessary. <S> A 12v 50w mr16 would be the bulb replacement. <S> See H7LVICT <S> Low Voltage Baffle
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However, just to replace the bulb you'd actually just pull out the little mr16 socket which snaps in and out.
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Paint left on electrical wires in switches and outlets? I recently replaced all my outlets in my apartment. Several of them have what looks like splotches of spray paint on the wires. Is this hazardous? And if so, what can be done about it? <Q> This is a nuisance caused by sloppy drywalling and painting, and is utterly harmless. <A> The Wires are insulated. <S> The paint is only on the insulation - it is harmless. <S> Even if the paint were on the copper wire it would be harmless unless it interfered with the connection. <S> Now the concern is when people paint the outlets - I personally hate it <S> - it is called super sloppy painting. <S> It can possibly conduct (when it is wet) and cause a short - <A> The small amount of paint in the photo looks like nearly every old outlet I've seen, I'll agree with ThreePhaseEel that it's harmless. <S> But, one function of an electrical box is to contain any overheating or sparks & prevent fires. <S> It's possible that a thick layer of outstandingly flammable paint all over the inside of the box (wires, outlet / switch, and the box itself) would be a fire hazard. <S> If you're worried, you could scrape or peel off the paint, or use a paint remover liquid - all very carefully, turn off the power first!
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but after it is dry , generally it will not cause a problem - I will not say never because I am sure it depends on what kind of (special) paint is used.
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Can I fill a drywall hole with something and reuse the hole? I made a mistake with drilling a hole in the drywall. It's off by about 1/4-1/2 inch. The new hole will be really close to the old hole, or knowing my poor drilling skills, it will overlap the old hole. Someone told me I can use joint compound or something to fill the hole and reuse the hole. However, when I went to OSH, the worker said structurally, we can't refill a hole and reuse it and that the screw/anchor will eventually get loose and fall out. Is my friend correct that I can reuse the hole or is the worker correct that structurally we can't reuse the hole? EDIT: I'm trying to drill holes for screw to hold a curtain rod and use anchors in the drywall. The anchors are the plastic anchors that came with the curtain rod set. I don't think the rod and curtains weigh that much but the store worker said the filled in drywall won't be as strong as untouched drywall. I didn't measure the line or drill the hole correctly b/c one of the end brackets holding the rod is like 1/4-1/2 inches too low (stupid me). I COULD move it out (or in) 1-2 inches to the left or right but then it doesn't look symmetrical, which is why I want to just fill the holes and re-drill a hole 1/2 inch up to line everything up but if the filled in hole won't hold the anchor, then that won't do. <Q> You haven't said how big the hole is or what it's for, but I think I understand your question, how a little filler might not be as strong as untouched drywall. <S> If you're just hanging a small picture <S> I'm sure filler would be perfect. <S> If you're hanging something very heavy <S> and you want to make sure it's a strong patch, and if you don't mind a hole at least an inch or two and a little patching & filler & paint <S> you could put a piece of wood behind it and screw it into the "good" drywall on either side: <S> Then patch it with the larger drywall piece you cut out (if you cut it out carefully). <S> Now your "new" drilled hole will be just as strong as the wood behind it is held <S> , probably 4x a single screw in drywall. <A> Joint compound usually bonds fairly well to the gypsum inside drywall panels. <S> However, you must get it thoroughly filled to make good contact. <S> Also, standard joint compound shrinks substantially, so you'd be better off with a setting-type product (Easy Sand 45, for example). <S> Anchor your drill well to help with this. <S> Then, the paper surface of the drywall panels provides much of the strength of most anchors. <S> I'd use an anchor that spreads the load behind the panel, such as a toggler. <S> This won't rely so much on your hole plug then. <A> I had a similar problem when I was mounting shelves and the dry wall hole was a little too loose. <S> This YouTube video shows how to use wood filler, which makes the hole very strong (just make sure you push wood filler into the hole and don't just put some on top of the hole like spackle): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlUlJwoaS7A
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It depends on what it's filled with, but regular drywall filler probably won't be as strong. If you press the compound in adequately and let it dry or cure fully, you'll be able to drill a new hole at the correct location. You'll want to start with a small, sharp bit to be sure that it doesn't "walk", or shift position.
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Drywall hole slightly too large for mounting bracket to cover I'm trying to replace a ceiling mounted wireless access point and I've hit a snag. The old one was mounted inside the drywall, instead of over top of it. The new one comes with a mounting bracket, but the screw holes for the bracket don't quite clear the hole from the old one. Anyone have any ideas for how I might solve this? I'm thinking worst case is I just patch the hole and shift the new one over a bit, but I'd like to avoid patching if possible. <Q> You can purchase a piece of scrap drywall from your local hardware store - they might even give it to you free for that matter. <S> Make a rectangular piece the same size as your box. <S> Drill the hole for your wire. <S> Install rectangular dry wall piece over the box, patch nicely. <S> Sand and paint if need be. <S> When I do this I usually run a screw (or three) <S> part way into my drywall scrap piece - so I can hold it in position in either manually or in the case where I have 3 screws with string / wire to keep it where I want it - when patching a wall. <A> Well, I'm pretty new to all this, so I think I just was over-thinking it. <S> Thanks for the suggestions folks! <A> Buy some sticky back vinyl sheets Like this or similar Cut it to be large enough to cover the home and be larger than but match the shape of the new fitting and sandwidge it in between.
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After messing with it more, I found that I could shift the new bracket a bit off of the hole and mount with drywall screws and the AP still covered most of the hole once it was mounted.
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Can I run this pipe through joists? I have a bulkhead or soffit above our kitchen cabinets that is being removed to make way for taller ones that will go all the way to the ceiling. I encountered a vent pipe that will be in the way of the new cabinets: So here's roughly what it looks like now (this is on an external wall): And here's what I want: Will it be feasible & acceptable to run this 2" pipe through several 2x10 joists in my 2 story home? Or, any other ideas? <Q> According to International Residential Code , you can bore a hole with a diameter one-third the depth of the joist. <S> You have to keep the hole 2" from the top or bottom of the joist. <S> For a 2x10, you can bore a hole up to 3" in diameter. <S> 9.25" <S> / 3 = 3.08333" diameter <S> However, this is only for sawn lumber. <S> If the floor is made up of engineered joists, you'll have to talk to an engineer. <A> https://www.familyhandyman.com/floor/how-to-drill-through-floor-joists/view-all <S> You might or might not have to reroute some other pipes to accomplish this routing. <S> This pipe appears to be ABS plastic drain or vent. <S> EDIT <S> Due to the recommendation in the link about staying 6" from any load bearing wall (pointed out in a comment) <S> I withdraw my answer that this link supports the feasibility of rerouting the drain as described by the original poster. <S> (I suppose this means that the 2x10" joist is, or could be, in compression within 6" of a load bearing wall. <S> I was going by the widely noted rule to place penetrations in the outer thirds of the span of a joist.) <S> Maybe additional support to relieve compression would allow the penetrations as envisioned by the OP, but an engineer should be consulted. <S> EDIT2 <S> So the rerouted pipe would have to turn laterally away from the load bearing wall so that the 3" holes would be more than 6" away from the wall. <A> This would reduce the capacity of the cabinets at the top back, but this might be the best course. <S> The appearance of the cabinets when closed would be unaffected. <S> Boxing in the piping from inside the cabinets would remove the possibility of damaging the piping by ramming it with heavy objects and improve the appearance when the cabinet was open. <S> This would avoid any compromising holes in the 2x10" joists.
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Consider accepting the current location of the drain/vent and cutting the cabinets to fit around it. According to the above you could drill up to 3" diameter holes in the joists if you stay 2" away from the edges.
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How to add a barrier with access to roll in and out trash bins in my 'public' driveway? I have a driveway that is in the back alley. All of our neighbors have access to the back alley. Also, all of my neighbors have basically built on their property so that they have used up their driveway. All of our trash cans are also in the back alley. Some neighbors roll their trash cans onto their property. However, some of my neighbors (I don't know which), always put their trash bins in my driveway. When we first moved here there were SIX trash cans. Only two of them belong to me. My question is, how do I prevent people from accessing my driveway (it's about 40' wide and 26' deep). I would want to put up a barrier on the 40' span. --------------------------------- alley---------------------------------+ 40' ++ ++ ++ ++ drive way ++ +--------- garage door/wall------+ I don't want to install a fence just yet, I just want a deterrent. But I still need to roll my trash cans in and out of the driveway for trash collection in the alley. UPDATE I've moved the bins and also talked to the neighbors but the bins still end up on my property. Or sometimes they will take my bins if they run out of space in their bins. <Q> A few ideas, not knowing what the area really looks like. <S> Over time seek to identify the various mystery bins and mark them with names or house numbers in permanent ink. <S> When they appear on your property you can either bring it up with your neighbor or ask the local police for help. <S> This may also work through peer pressure. <S> If your neighbors see their names sitting on your property they may be less likely to violate your space. <S> (I find that turning on my hazard flashers is the best way to deal with tailgaters--the unwanted attention very often mitigates the poor behavior.) <S> Fabricate a temporary gate, such as suspended cables with wire mesh between, that you can install the day before trash day each week and roll up when not needed. <S> Put it up, take it down. <S> Like when training a puppy, your neighbors will become conditioned to do something else. <A> I would start by considering your needs, not the aesthetics. <S> If the bins don't get in the way of your family's cars, then fuggedabadit. <S> If they are an impediment, then.... <S> Next, any evening you come home to find others' bins on your driveway, roll those into your garage for subsequent destruction and disposal. <A> The neighbors aren't doing it. <S> The trash man is. <S> The garbage truck has an automatic grabber specifically designed to work with the types of cans you have been issued by the city. <S> They have rectangular tops but roundish middles, and wheels and a lid hinge on the same side. <S> All by design. <S> The trash pickup process is as follows. <S> hop out of truck. <S> drag <S> all nearby cans to the (typically) right side of the truck in a neat row. <S> inch the truck forward until it is abeam of the first can. <S> push button. <S> Grabber lifts can to top of truck, inverts, dumps, sets back down. <S> inch forward to next can and repeat as above. <S> Drive away . <S> Citizens are expected to, at this point, sort out their own trash cans like grownups. <S> In fact, the duty to do so may even be in your garbage contract. <S> The latter particularly, and this process in general, is something you do not want to mess with . <S> Territorialism is all fun and games until you cheese off a dragon, Norse god, British Empire, highly advanced extraterrestrial, or garbage man. <S> One time I parked my car (street parking) in a way the garbage man had trouble getting to the cans. <S> I found my car entirely boxed in by garbage cans. <S> Every week the next month, I put every can in the area in a nice straight line on the right side of the street for him to grab. <S> Message received. <S> This sort of thing is just part of the daily give and take of high density living, or should I say "medium" since parking a car is possible.
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It may also be the case that a kindly neighbor is routinely doing the gracious act of positioning the cans for the garbage man so he can move through his day that much quicker. If you are Ok with a drastic solution, first be committed to keeping your own bins inside your garage until trash day.
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Drill holes in very tight space I need to drill a couple of holes in a very tight space. Material is stainless steel and shape is "Π". I need to drill one hole on each inner wall to attach a springbar on it but it can't be done with a normal drill. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am attaching a couple of pictures to make understanding easier. <Q> Find someone with a dentist drill. <S> Should have a small enough head to fit in your space. <A> I would drill through 1 side into the other then plug the drill hole. <S> If that won't work some machine shops have plunge EDM machines but the hole quality is not as clean as a drilled hole. <S> (EDM electro discharge milling ) <S> a electrode could be easily shaped to make a hole up to 17mm deep. <A> If things are so dire you're considering a dental drill <S> You could also ship it out to a shop with the right equipment. <S> Or, if appearance is much less important than functionality you could have it cut then welded locally. <S> Depending on the exact use case you could have a replacement fabricated. <S> Several national fabricators will 3D print or machine parts from CAD plans. <S> There's a menu for requesting quotes in Fusion 360, which is free for hobby use. <S> I suspect it varies wildly from one shop to the next.
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it's well worth checking with local machine shops. You could also have it cast at a foundry, I've no idea where that would fall on the price spectrum.
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Which is the hot wire, neutral wire and ground wire? I am trying to replace my ceiling lamp. I have wiring which looks like this: I am trying to figure which one is the hot, neutral and ground wire. The voltage detector beeps when brought close to the wires with red caps(one red cap has three wires going in and another a single wire) and doesn't when brought close to the wires with yellow cap (two wires going into the cap). Though I see sparks when opening the yellow cap (and lights nearby blink). Is it possible to tell with this information? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! <Q> The cap colors have nothing to do with it <S> The color codes say the **size and quantity* of wires they're designed for. <S> For instance yellow can bind up to 3 14AWG wires, but red can bind up to 6. <S> Their ranges overlap broadly. <S> It's all about the wire colors, except... <S> A bare, green, or green/yellow wire is always a ground. <S> They are often pushed up into the back of the box. <S> A gray or white wire ( <S> light blue in Europe/rest of world) is a neutral, except it can be tagged with tape to use as a "hot". <S> Any other wire color can only be a hot. <S> You should not mark a hot to be a neutral or ground. <S> But you can't count on the last guy doing right. <S> So here's what we know <S> The black-black bundle can only be hots. <S> The white-white bundle is certainly the actual neutrals. <S> The black-white bundle, the black must be a hot, so the white must be a hot that should have been marked with tape , and wasn't (typically because the use is "obvious"). <S> Here, the obvious use would be for a switch loop . <S> In a switch loop, you have a black and (should be marked) <S> white going down to the switch. <S> The switch shorts them together to light the light. <S> There's no standard which wire is always-hot and which is switched-hot . <S> So realistically the switched-hot will be either wire. <S> Your lamp needs neutral and switched-hot. <S> The neutral is easy; the switched-hot will be one of the others. <S> You can guess, but if you guess wrong, the lamp will be on continuously and won't respond to the switch. <S> That's exactly what you do to find out. <S> Ground wires are not readily visible in your photo. <S> You'll have to look closer in the back of the box. <S> Some light circuits are ungrounded; in which case there is nothing to attach to. <S> Normally you have to replace a whole cable <S> , not run a single wire; but as of 2014 it is legal to retrofit just a ground wire, if you really want to. <A> Common Switch leg configuration <S> The white/black wires twisted together is permanent hot -- turn off the breaker first if you wish and push it back out of the way. <S> The two whites are neutral and the white on the fixture wires to them. <S> Way in the back are bare grounds twisted together. <S> Those wire to the fixture bare copper ground. <S> The lights flicker because other lights share the neutral. <A> The grounding wire is always green or bare. <S> The white that appears to be attached to a black is probably part of a switch leg. <S> It should be marked with tape or another means of identification, but it would not be the first time it wasn't. <S> Meaning it detects voltage in the area of the box so unless you can separate the wires far enough apart, the voltage detector will signal on every wire in the box. <S> You might want to check it out with a voltmeter which you can probably buy a cheap one for less than 20 dollars. <A> The ground wire is the bare copper that is buried in the back. <S> The neutral is the yellow capped bundle <S> The lone red cap is likely your line from the power switch. <S> You can test that by turning the switch on and off and seeing if there is power present (use a non-contact tester) <S> The bundled red cap wires are pass through line power that is going to other lights, receptacles, etc.
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The single black wire is a switched hot and is what the fixture black wires to. People often forget to tag the wires with tape, especially when the use is obvious . The yellow wire nut is your neutral. Not every installation has grounds. The problem with a voltage detector is that it's a proximity detector.
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I tripped a 20amp breaker but didn't feel a shock - why? I was stripping a hot ungrounded conductor while a 20A breaker was on by accident. When my wire strippers pierced the sheathing, a large spark blew out and tripped a breaker, but yet I felt nothing. There's a possibility that somehow that the hot wire got stripped AND the ground wire was touching the other end of my strippers and created a ground fault. I don't believe the ground wire was touching my strippers, but the idea of me creating a path for 20 amps to flow from my hand to the ground tells me that I wouldn't be here blabbing about this question. I just can't see how I wasn't shocked at all. I've drawn out a highly realistic depiction of me on the day this happened. Please try not to get caught up on why things are the way they are and focus on the question at hand. There is a main breaker panel (grounded/bonded), then it feeds a sub panel (ungrounded / not bonded), and from there is where the circuit ends. <Q> Power doesn't usually go through you Because you're a lousy conductor. <S> Also if you possess even the slightest amount of fieldcraft, you habitually and perhaps unconsciously position yourself so you are not a current path. <S> Electricity is not the black oil from X-files. <S> It doesn't seek out human skin, it will seek out all possible current paths to return at the same time. <S> If you're contacting L1, then neutral, ground or L2 are returns. <S> L1 is not a return. <S> Current will take each path in proportion to its conductance (which is 1/resistance, Siemens = 1 / Ohm ). <S> So typically you have shoes on, and are not leaning on a grounded panel, and have not carefully attached a grounding strap to any fresh piercings <S> , so your conductance is very low (megaohms/microsiemens). <S> Meanwhile those other wires have extremely high conductance (milliohms/kilosiemens). <S> So one of two things happens, either so little current flows through you (microamps) <S> that you don't feel it, or a dangerous current (milliamps) flows through you. <S> And then hundreds of amps also flows through the wire (as evidenced by the arc flash) and the breaker magnetic-trips, interrupting the current flow in milliseconds <S> and so you never get to find out if it's lethal. <A> 1: <S> Your wire strippers the handles appear to be insulated ! <S> 2: You needed to be both touching the HOT and grounded AND be the least path of resistance- <S> you may not have been. <S> The least path was between your hot wire on the strippers and Neutral or Ground - it tripped instantaneously - you have been LUCKY. <S> Now on to that least path of resistance - is kind of a misnomer (about being shocked or electrocuted) <S> but in this scenario - your two wires Hot and what ever had a dead short ZERO resistance current flowed instantaneously and tripped the breaker. <S> If there was some resistance in the wire not a DEAD short - you definitely could have been shocked or electrocuted if you had touched at the same time. <S> It is a matter of the current flowing to the one point over it flowing through you to ground - which is faster. <S> I cite the GFCI operation here - it senses (means there is a path, and it trips with in x milliseconds - you feel nothing). <S> In cases where the voltage is higher <S> the above will not spare you - you will get fried. <S> RULE #1: <S> When working on an Electrical Machine, Component or Wire - REMOVE ALL SOURCES OF POTENTIAL ENERGY! <S> Batteries, Storage Capacitors, Circuit Breakers - turn it off! <S> Turn Circuits Off before working on them, treat all circuits as if they were live when working on them, verify that they are off and have no live voltage before working on them. <A> If the strippers were touching ground when they also touched hot, that would create a short-circuit that would trip the breaker. <S> If the strippers were not grounded, nor insulated. <S> Then I'd have to assume the breaker that tripped was a GFCI breaker, and you created a ground-fault. <S> In which case, the breaker would trip at only a few milliamperes. <A> Two possibilities: 1) <S> You went through the neutral first. <S> When you then cut the hot, bang. <S> 2) <S> You cut the hot first but you were sufficiently insulated (see other answers) that you felt nothing. <S> When you then cut through the neutral, bang. <S> If you are sure <S> you have no ground path <S> it's safe to work with a hot wire. <S> The guys who work the big wires do it routinely. <S> Just be very, very sure.
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Assuming the stripper handles are insulated, no current should have gone through you.
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How to Remove Stuck Exterior Faucets I have two outdoor faucets that I need to replace. These are attached to some gnarly old pipes (cast iron?) and I've not been able to remove the faucets with gentle pressure. Is grabbing a pipe wrench and hauling on these as bad idea as I think? I'd appreciate ideas on how to remove these without destroying the pipes in the process. I'm a newish homeowner and don't have a lot of plumbing experience, but working on expanding my knowledge. I've searched through this forum as well as browsed through tons of YouTube videos, but haven't found any good how to guides. <Q> AFIK a water supply pipe <S> would not be 'cast iron'. <S> Older water supply systems were made of galvanized steel with threaded joints. <S> (Drain systems in the walls were made of cast iron, but the joints between sections of drain pipe were not threaded but rather packed and sealed with lead.) <S> The more modern supply systems were copper tubing joined by soldered joints so called 'sweated' joints. <S> Outside faucets would oftentimes be threaded onto a brass or copper fitting which was sweated onto the copper tubing and transitioned to normal pipe threads (NPT) either male or female. <S> The threaded end of this transition was also called 'iron pipe' even though the fitting was made of brass. <S> The designation of these terminations would be MIP or FIP, respectively, for male and female terminations. <S> In my house the outside faucets are fed by 1/2" copper tubing and I sweated on 1/2" FIP fittings so I could replace the faucets by unscrewing them and not have to get out the torch and solder. <S> These threaded connections do require sealing with 'pipe dope' or Teflon water pipe sealing tape. <S> If you have galvanized steel piping you will need a pipe wrench to hold the pipe and prevent it from turning and another wrench to unscrew the faucet. <S> (The second wrench would not have to be a pipe wrench, but could be, although a pipe wrench takes a little practice to learn how to use.) <S> You do not want the pipe to turn because this would loosen a joint further back and could cause a leak in the wall. <S> A pipe wrench is asymmetric and must be oriented properly to clamp onto the pipe. <S> Look this up. <A> You'll want a pair of pipe wrenches, one for the fitting and one to hold the pipe. <S> Provided you've got both securely in place you need only be moderately careful cranking on it. <S> Don't go crazy jumping up and down on the wrench, don't pull unless you've got a firm grip on the one holding the pipe, etc. <S> Most plumbers keep long wrenches in the truck; in the worst case a pipe over the handle provides excellent leverage. <S> The key concept to keep in mind is that a pipe wrench should be in contact with three sides of the pipe at all times. <S> Otherwise the jaws of the wrench will deform the pipe when they compress. <S> " If you have a torch available try heating the connection, which often breaks corrosion loose. <S> You're pretty fortunate that there's no nearby soldered connections or wooden structure <S> so you can bake the hell out of it. <S> (Though if you weren't discarding the faucets the washers deforming would be a concern.) <A> When using 2 pipe wrenches, 1st. <S> try to tighten (just a tad amount) <S> the fitting you want to remove. <S> Move it just a very slight amount, to break the seal, (the path of least resistance is in the direction the pipes were turned when installing).2nd <S> , try turning the fitting the correct way after you have broken the joint loose using step 1. <S> If you can't get it loose call a friend or plumber to help before you break the pipe and cause a large expense. <S> There is always a neighbor like me that is willing to help. <S> If the pipe is turned off somewhere up stream, you could try heating the fitting first, then use the pipe wrenches. <A> Well, i haven't done too much plumbing but if you have enough room to use two pipe wrenches you could try and hold the pipe with one and turn the faucet with the other. <S> You could even try some wd40 type of spray. <S> Spray and let sit for a while and try later. <S> Hope this helps.
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To use a pipe wrench correctly takes a little practice and understanding if you have never used one before. In your particular application you can also try the "blue wrench.
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Shed with gaps at the top, wasp nest come back every year I have a nice shed in the backyard but every year wasp nests reappear in there. the shed has these 2x4 sized gaps between the roof and the side walls on the sides of the shed. I saw a recommendation of using screen mesh, but what should I use to adhere the screen mesh to the shed? <Q> Wire mesh is a good idea in that it maintains the same level of ventilation offered by the current openings. <S> Only you can decide of the ventilation is necessary or desired. <S> I could see problems of blowing and drifting snow getting inside the shed in the winter time and if that is a problem then you may be up to eliminating the openings. <S> These come in a variety of forms depending upon how they are applied. <S> There are staples that can be installed with a hammer which may be the simplest as you may very well already have a hammer. <S> Many sizes are available. <S> For mesh you will want ones that are fairly small with legs of say 1/2 to 5/8 inches long. <S> Another type of staple is applied using a staple gun. <S> These can be purchased fairly inexpensive and the staple gun for the type of staples may look something like below. <S> The staples best to use for this application would have rounded tops and have legs 9/16 inch in length. <S> Sometimes a staple gun like these will not sink the staple fully and if this happens just tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer. <S> The third choice is to use a pneumatic brad nailer that is able to use staples. <S> These are great because they shoot the staples in quickly and with enough force that they will be sunk way in. <S> One slight disadvantage with many brad nailers with staples is that the staples are narrow and the nose of the gun does not typically have a guide to line up the staple over the wire of the mesh. <S> So until you get the eye for it you may get some staples that do not bridge across the wires of the mesh. <S> photos show examples only and are not meant to imply endorsement for any particular product <A> Cut some 1x4's to fit between the rafters to block off the inside. <S> Caulk around the edges to seal. <S> You could paint the exposed wood a light (haint) <S> blue like they paint porch ceilings here in the South. <S> If you need the ventilation I would use a wire mesh over some type of screen. <S> If it was my shed I would put a fascia board, drip edge, and soffit to finish it out. <A> The simplest solution is to put a flat molding (aka "screen molding") over the edge of the screen and staple through that into the shed. <S> You get forearms like Popeye from working the staple gun, but won't accidentally put a hammer through the screen and odd angles aren't an issue. <A> Most wire mesh probably won't keep wasps out. <S> You might want to consider using insect screening for windows. <S> It should be cheaper than wire mesh, and do the job more easily. <S> If it's wide enough, you could staple it to the rafters and wrap it around the edge to staple to the ends. <S> One note <S> : it's hard to tell if your rafters are pressure-treated or not. <S> If they are, be sure to use galvanized staples.
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If you do decide to go the route of using the wire mesh then the best method of fastening cut and fitted pieces in place is to use staples.
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GFCI won't reset, charges neutral when wired up I have a single GFCI outlet on it's own circuit in a bathroom. When the breaker is on and outlet isn't wired, the hot has current (using a probe tester) and neutral and ground do not. When I hook up the GFCI and turn the breaker on, the hot and neutral have current, ground does not, but the GFCI won't reset and power devices plugged into it. I have tried 4 different GFCI outlets and know that at least two of them are functional as they work when hooked up to other wiring. There is nothing else on this circuit, and I don't have any idea what might be causing this. Please help! <Q> It is rather unusual for wires to break by themselves, so most likely the problem is at a termination. <S> We can exclude this location, that leaves the service panel. <S> The neutral wire isn't becoming magically energized when you connect a GFCI to it. <S> The GFCI uses some electricity for its own functions and returns it to the neutral wire. <S> With the neutral broken there is nowhere for that voltage to go, so it stays on the neutral wire, lifting it to 120 volts. <S> The same thing would happen if you used a regular receptacle and a night light. <S> No receptacle will work at this location until you fix the neutral. <A> A GFCI won't reset for a few reasons. <S> First the GFCI is broken. <S> Which you have seemed to already checked. <S> Second the GFCI does not have proper voltage. <S> Which is covered by Harper above. <S> Third the GFCI is connected wrong. <S> Check out DoxyLover above also make sure you have the correct polarity when connecting up the GFCI, the neutral and ground should be on the same side of the receptacle. <S> Finally there is a leak in the wiring connected to the GFCI. <S> Make sure the voltage reading is exactly the same when measuring the hot and the neutral and the hot and the ground. <S> The leak is usually between the neutral and the ground. <S> If nothing else works, try connecting the neutral and hot to the GFCI and not the ground and see if it will reset. <S> If it does, there is definitely a problem between the neutral and ground. <S> Do not leave it like this since it defeats the purpose of the GFCI. <S> Instead you or someone else needs to figure out the problem and correct it. <A> Of course it will not reset... <S> Notice your hot and neutral are HOT carrying current. <S> Your neutral should be exactly that neutral - <S> you state it is hot when wired. <S> So here is a possible scenario. <S> your TEST button is pressed on. <S> You have wired the neutral to the hot connection. <S> EDIT 10/04/2017 <S> If a GFCI does not reset with something plugged in - Unplug the connected device and try to reset. <S> You might have a down stream device on the Bathroom outlet as sometimes a secondary bathroom might be wired to it - make sure the down stream device and the GFCI is wired correctly, also unplug any load on the downstream outlet and try to reset. <S> If you just installed the GFCI and it does not reset with no load ..trouble shoot the wiring. <S> If GFCI had been working - most likely it is bad but given that it is in a bathroom you might have a down stream outlet which could be where your issue resides. <A> I agree with previous answers, but they are needlessly complex. <S> When a simple probe light indicates a voltage with respect to ground on the neutral (aka grounded) conductor, that conductor is not connected to ground. <S> Restore continuity in the elementary electric circuit so that the grounding (safety ground), grounded (neutral current carrying) and ungrounded (line, hot, phase) conductor are all properly connected before attempting to resolve what could be wrong with the GFCI outlet. <S> If an individual with limited understanding has installed this branch circuit, it is possible that they have misapplied wiring instructions for a branch circuit protected by a combination GFCI and overcurrent breaker to a branch circuit protected by an ordinary overcurrent breaker and a GFCI outlet. <S> A GFCI breaker is connected to both the ungrounded and grounded conductors of a 120v branch circuit, and it has a concealed connection to an ungrounded bus bar, and a visible (white wire) connection to the neutral bus bar. <S> An ordinary overcurrent breaker is connected only to the ungrounded conductor of the branch circuit and has a concealed connection to an ungrounded bus bar. <S> The grounded conductor of the branch circuit is connected directly to the neutral bus bar, and the grounding conductor is connected to the grounding bus bar. <S> (At a service entrance grounded and grounding may be the same bus bar, at any downstream distribution panels <S> the current carrying grounded conductor is separate from the the safety grounding conductor that only carries fault current. <S> A GFCI outlet can be added to a branch circuit whether or not it is protected by a GFCI breaker. <S> There is no change to any part of the wiring between between a GFCI outlet and the service entrance when it is installed even when the GFCI outlet is wired to protect other devices on the same branch circuit. <S> I would also point out that while broken conductors are less common than missing connections, they do happen, and perhaps a little more often when an inexperienced person is making connections in a duplex box. <S> When a conductor itself has been flexed too many times and cracked where it enters a box, it can't be spliced outside the box in the wall. <S> Either a replacement cable has to be run to the panel or an upstream junction box or a new box has to be placed somewhere upstream to put the splice in.
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In your case the neutral wire is broken.
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Splitting one main low voltage power line into two I'm installing under cabinet lighting and haven't worked with low voltage wire before and trying to determine the best option. I'm using 18 gauge wire (stranded) to wire LED lights. In my particular situation, I have my wires coming from the power supply under one of the middle cabinets. I have about 4 more feet on the right side than on the left, so to protect against potential voltage drop, I want to run the wire from the power supply straight up, and then from that wire, connect to two separate runs (one for the left side and one for the right). My question is how to best connect the wires. I was initially thinking of using wire nuts to connect them - for example, the two positive wires on each run tied in with the positive wire from the power supply...so 3 positive wires wire nutted together. Same with the negative wires. I then read something where I'm now a little concerned in using wire nuts for stranded wire. If I do end up going that route, I'll also wrap electric tape around the nuts to help prevent any possible movement. And yes, I have nuts for the proper gauge, but I think those are always rated for solid and not stranded, but I could be wrong. The other consideration I had was heat-shrink butt splices, but it would basically be 1 wire in one side and two wires in the other. This may be problematic because the best size I can find is 16-14 gauge. That would work I think for the side with the two 18 gauge wires going in, but maybe not for the side with just one 18 gauge wire. Hopefully this makes sense. Any suggestions on this? Thanks! Chris <Q> I use stranded wire for everything <S> and I work in voltages up to 480. <S> Wire nuts are my main splicing technique. <S> Never had a problem nor had any reason to think I might. <S> If you are worried about voltage drop, up your wire size. <S> Due to the strange economics of mass produced wire, #14 is barely any more expensive than #18. <S> For going to individual strips I use #20 or #22 because I want delicate wires that are flexible <S> so I don't put too much strain on the strip proper. <S> But I splice up to heavier stuff within a foot or two. <A> Your voltage drop with DC voltage and that additional 4 feet of wire you are stressing and jumping through hoops for will be VERY negligible <S> [ .026 ohms of difference ]. <S> Don't waste your time jumping unless you really need the exercise. <S> Now if you really want to exercise and spend more money and time : they make two wire to one wire splices , you could solder them together and heat shrink , or you can use the screw type connectors that allow you to join multiple wires. <A> Not sure how to give credit to Ken's answer, which is the route I went based on his comment. <S> So, the suggestion to go ahead and connect the two separate runs to the power supply is what I went with and it worked just fine. <S> This way I didn't have to worry about putting any type of junction box behind hte wall where I couldn't get to it behind the backsplash - if I ever need to adjust anything, I have easy access to it at the power supply underneath of the cabinet. <S> Thanks,Chris
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I wasn't worried about voltage drop - the runs in my circuit were very short and I split it in the middle to avoid any concern (and even if I had just done one string for the entire side, it would have still been fine). For 3#18 blue wire nuts are ideal. I am guessing that Power supply is Constant Current [for use with LED's ] at a set voltage so it will regulate properly for the two lights.
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How can I order custom-tinted paint colors from a computer graphic? I'm trying to paint a mural on my child's nursery wall. I created exactly what I want in Photoshop and now want to get the right paint colors. I found paint colors that match close for some of the colors, but most of them don't have a color anywhere close. How can I order just the right color to match my mockup? <Q> Color is more complicated than you think. <S> Right off the bat, those RGB # colors are made by adding light sources . <S> That does not map well to how paint works, which is selectively reflecting certain hues of a natural or artificial light source. <S> **. <S> At the very least, you must get into the ink-based CMYK system, and photoshop can do that at least. <S> And even then, the lush, rich colors that work so well on RGB screens have a funny way of going "out of gamut" for the paint matching system. <S> It's not necessarily even being outside the scanner's range; I often find it's because they can't fit enough pigment into the paint can. <S> Mind you, paint is matched by scanning your sample which must be on a fixed medium like paper, metal, etc. <S> And paint is not CMYK, there are actually about a dozen pigments. <S> Your best option is to print this out on a color printer. <S> Wrestle out all the stuff you have to do to get the printer to give you exactly the colors you want. <S> Then create a new layer in the drawing and draw some squares or circles of your colors, about 3" across (75mm). <S> Hide all the other layers and print that layer. <S> Those will be the swatches the paint store will match with their digital scanner. <S> One other thing. . <S> I see that two of your colors have goofy names like the paint companies like to use for swatches. <S> I'm guessing they're exactly that. <S> Expect considerable drift between the original swatch color and what comes out of your printer. <S> That is one of the things you will have to compensate for. <S> Don't wear yourself out trying to make a perfect match, the eye can see very fine differences in color when laid side by side, and trying to get it perfect is hopeless. <S> Ultimately what the printer prints out will be your canonical reference. <S> ** <S> did I mention light sources can differ and throw your colors off. <S> I once heard about a restoration where the color research was top shelf, but the Smithsonian required a color that was very particularly incorrect . <S> The issue was that the artifact was meant to be seen in daylight, but the lighting in the display area was not daylight color. <S> The intentional color error compensated for this. <A> Ideally you'd work in the correct color space right from the start. <S> Both Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore offer downloadable pallets for Photoshop and CAD programs. <S> If the file is amenable to recoloring then switching may be the easiest route. <S> If you want something more generic then Pantone has a Home+Interior collection for color matching paints. <S> (The original Pantone swatches are for ink.) <S> The colors should be available at big box and major hardware chains, but I don't know if the collection is included in Photoshop. <S> I would guess that it is. <A> If you have access to a high enough quality color printer just print out your mockup and bring it to the store. <S> Most stores these days can match colors with a sample you provide. <A> Given the thousands of colors most paint stores offer, I'm surprised that you can't find any that are "anywhere close". <S> Bring home a handful of chips for each color in your print, and tack them to the wall to help decide. <S> I would be more confident of getting good results this way than ordering custom colors. <S> You know what they'll look like in your light with a higher degree of certainty by using chips.
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I'd print your image and take it to the store.
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