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Why does the transformer on my furnace keep burning up? Why does the transformer burn up, about 2 minutes after i turn on the power to the furnace? Nothing gets turned on at the thermostat. I just plug it in and push in the blower door switch and it burns up. I know after a lightning strike I heard a "slap" sound and then smelled burning. I know it was the transformer because there was no power light on on the control board. When I replaced the transformer the lights came on, then the transformer burned up. So I replaced the contactor and the transformer, the lights came on again, then the transformer burned up. <Q> Could be your control board, could be the thermostat, anything that is a load on the transformer output. <S> The idea posted in comments to fuse one leg of the transformer output is a good trouble shooting scheme - fuses are going to be cheaper than transformers. <S> So it seems like you will be replacing a few fuses whilst you try to isolate what component is severely loading the transformer. <S> I would place my bet on a relay coil that has burned the insulation on the coil to a near short or a semiconductor that has suffered on chip meltdown to a short. <A> As others have mentioned, the transformer is burning up because the load on it is too great. <S> This is likely caused by a damaged component within the control circuit, which is drawing far too much current for the transformer. <S> Rather than burning up more transformers, and/or blowing through a crate of fuses, why not try troubleshooting the circuit with the power off. <S> Turn the power off to the equipment at the breaker or serviceman switch, and insure it's off before poking around in the equipment. <S> Start by visually inspecting all the low voltage components (relays, circuit boards, limit switches, etc.), looking for obvious signs of damage (broken, burnt, discolored, etc.). <S> Look for things that are out of place, especially things that might be shorted to the chassis or other grounded items. <S> If you have a thermal imaging camera (not likely), you could look for hot spots when the equipment is powered up. <S> Using an inline fuse, this method might only cost one or two fuses. <S> If nothing looks bad, it's time to start poking around with a meter. <S> Grab the schematic, and start isolating and testing each component individually. <A> There is a short somewhere. <S> Typically it is the thermostat wire grounding on the cabinet but after a lightning strike anything could be causing it. <S> I would ohm out all the components to ground. <S> Or you could install fuses on both sides of the transformer and take one thing out of the circuit at a time, when the fuse doesn’t blow that is your problem. <S> I would start by disconnecting all the thermostat wires from the furnace and see if that is the problem.
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Your transformer is undoubtedly burning up because something in the rest of the transformer load circuit also got fried in the lightening strike and is placing a load on the transformer that greatly exceeds its normal operating specifications.
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Can I glue a sleeve over a cracked dishwasher inlet line on my brand new garbage disposal unit? The disposal is brand new and I can't return it even though it was damaged in shipping, as I'm well outside the return window. I believe the inlet is ABS plastic, as it's stamped with a small number 2. The crack runs about as deep as the barbed end. Can I just cut back the damaged area and weld/glue an ABS sleeve with a hose barb over the inlet? My plumber was nervous about using it, but maybe he's being overly cautious. <Q> With your inlet line cracked it might be possible to repair depending on how much of that inlet line exists. <S> as an FYI fro a better route: If you purchased that thing via HD or Lo - take it back for an exchange - they generally will do it. <S> even if you are outside of 30 days. <S> Damaged in shipping file a damage claim with the carrier. <S> Now on to the answer if the better route is not possible for you. <S> Repairing ABS plastic is not the easiest and I do not know if ABS is weldable like PVC pipe is. <S> What I would do is insert a small piece of Thin Wall copper pipe on the inside of the inlet for support and on the outer side maybe fit PVC or a tight fit Rubber Hose over the outer side with and connect my dishwasher outlet into it. <S> You can use a high temp gasket sealant with this setup as well but don't use too much. <S> Make sure you provide some strain/stress relief on the pipe as well. <S> See below for an example. <A> If it's ABS it will be weldable with the same glue that is used for black plastic drain pipe. <S> You can test it by putting a small dot of glue on the plastic and see if it starts to soften and become sticky. <S> I have used a similar repair on the ABS case of a hand-held tool, and while it doesn't look spectacular it works just fine. <S> Pictures of the crack might help. <A> thanks for all your help here. <S> I contacted amazon <S> and they agreed to ship me a new one or allow me to return this one even though it was well past the return window - they were really great about it, and made it easy. <S> Thanks to all.
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You could try opening the crack slightly with a screwdriver and putting ABS glue on the crack.
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How can I change the final position of a threaded-in faucet? I installed a wall faucet and it got into the wrong direction because I had to tighten it well. How I can make it point in the right direction? <Q> Unscrew it and apply a bit more (or less) thread tape. <S> Or use thread compound, which is a bit more forgiving of tightness. <A> Easiest is to add a SharkBite coupling before the threaded pipe end: Those couplings can rotate freely while connected and under pressure. <S> (Consequently, you'll then need to anchor the hose bib.) <S> Much harder, but old-fashioned "right" way <S> : Mark how much rotation is needed to get it straight. <S> Unthread hose bib, heat supply line thread nipple until you can twist it, twist it exactly the right amount, then allow to cool before screwing hose bib back in. <A> No simple answers - trial and error. <S> You might need more thread tape.
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Unscrew it and note where you came off and try to get it to thread on sooner. or add a spacer coupling that you can manipulate a bit to give you a bit of play.
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Cutting and repairing drywall ceiling above shower stall We just purchased a house and I want to run low-voltage cables (Cat6 + RG6) from the basement to the attic. I have a good route up a 10"x18" chase currently occupied by only a few water pipes, which leads to a second-floor utility closet from which I can run directly to the attic. The problem is that getting up to the chase from the basement requires running the cables under the duct of a bathroom exhaust fan, and from the side of the wall where I currently have access, I don't think I'm going to be able to successfully pull the cables without inadvertently damaging them on a support bracket or ending up with too small a bend radius. I can get access directly under the chase in order to pull the cables and ensure they clear the duct and have the proper bend radius, but such access from below will require cutting a hole in the ceiling at the back of a shower stall in a basement bathroom. Given the location, I have some concerns/questions: 1) Is this a really bad idea? Since I haven't cut it yet, I don't know yet what water/moisture-proofing measures are in place--my view from an inspection camera suggests there is nothing but drywall--but I don't want to create a world of pain for myself if making this hole is going to be hard to patch. 2) Since I would like the option to run additional cables in the future, I was thinking of putting an access panel in the ceiling rather than just patching the drywall. Are there products that would be appropriate for this environment, or is that asking for trouble as well and I would be better off cutting and patching drywall? I hope I explained my situation clearly enough. <Q> I've used a circular access panel made for boat s (water tight) in a ceiling above a shower. <S> Works very well, doesn't let moisture in. <S> The link is a textured one for boat decks, but <S> The smooth (non-textured) look best. <S> I framed some wood backing in there between the joists to mount the rim to. <S> A few years on, all working well. <S> I open it a few times a year as it's the access panel for a valve to an exterior faucet. <A> A plastic access panel would do fine. <S> Humidity isn't really a concern if you ventilate well, which you should anyway. <S> You could use some thin foam tape to seal it if you like. <S> The key to a successful drywall repair is to use a good sealing primer before you paint. <S> Most problems come from folks paining directly over drywall, and the moisture causes delamination over time. <S> There's usually no moisture barrier installed on ceilings. <A> Although there's many un-vented bathrooms, I believe that ALL should have a sufficiently sized fan to ventilate the moisture out after showers, etc. <S> I run my own drywall repair business <S> and I've seen hundreds of bathrooms with serious mold issues from NOT having a vent fan. <S> I've seen this fall apart and mold too. <S> But you won't be disturbing any moisture proofing by cutting into the ceiling. <S> Honestly, I've seen hundreds of attempts by amateurs and less than 1% <S> done well. <S> Drywall repair is truly an art, but even an amateur can pull it off if you're willing to practice spreading mud on scrap rock, and in buying the right tools.
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That said, fans are the only thing they normally do to circumvent moisture problems, other than using moisture resistant drywall, which is usually blue or green, and is only moisture resistant, not moisture proof. Basically run clear caulk around the rim and in the screw holes. BUT, it's possible, with the right guidance and practice. To repair it really depends on your skills and the size of the hole.
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Is Teflon thread tape easily removable? I bought a couple of water timers for my sprinklers and they are leaking. I was wondering if I could put Teflon tape on them and this winter be able to remove the timer to be reused next year. Thank you. <Q> Teflon tape is easy to remove, but probably won't help in your situation. <S> Garden hoses don't seal via the threads meshing together. <S> They seal via a washer on the female connector. <S> A pack of rubber hose washers is pretty cheap - I'd replace them and see if it helps. <A> Yes, thread tape allows for easy removal after a period of time. <S> It's made of Teflon for low-friction assembly and disassembly. <S> I'm surprised that your timers don't have hose washers, though. <A> However, if you have the need to completely remove the tape from both pieces that can be difficult, as bits of the Teflon can become embedded in the threads. <S> Scrubbing with a fine wire brush or some such might be necessary, should you for some reason need to completely remove the stuff. <S> (In general you should not need to do this.) <S> And, as others have said, hose-style threaded joints are intended to be sealed with a "hose washer", rather than by having the threads fit tightly together. <S> These joints differ from ordinary pipe joints in this regard. <A> Teflon thread tape isn't adhesive. <S> It's just a form of dry lubrication, so that threads don't seize together. <S> It's easy to remove, and you don't have to bother removing all of it. <S> New goes on top of old. <S> Note that teflon thread tape isn't a gasket. <S> It's the O-rings in the treaded couplings that provide the water-tight seal. <S> Teflon tape is the plumbing equivalent of greasing the bolts on your car wheel before replacing the lugnuts. <S> By all means use it, but you will have to investigate and fix the leakage properly. <A> As others have noted, hoses don’t use the threads to seal! <S> Don’t do that. <S> Anually remove and replace the washer. <S> Clean the bare connector and make sure <S> there’s no sand or crust inside before seating the new washer. <S> Use a quality O ring rather than the standard hard flat plastic, for better results. <S> You can also suppliment The washer with silicone sealant, for a hose that will remain attached all season. <S> Apply from a tube being careful to touch the same way the washer does and not clog anything. <S> It peels off easily at the end of the season.
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The Teflon tape will not make the joints difficult to disassemble -- quite the opposite, as Teflon can prevent weathered joints from "seizing" and being difficult to get apart.
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Electric Load Box - No Main Breaker? So I purchased a 2 bedroom/2 bathroom condo in Arizona not too long ago. It was built in 1984. I recently took a good look at my load center and I see there is no main breaker installed. The label on the door of the box says it is a 125amp service. Wouldn't a main breaker be required or is that a local building code issue? <Q> Only if it's being used as the first means of disconnect. <S> Try and find your meter and see if there isn't a Main Fuse or Breaker beside it. <A> This may sound silly but being older in Arizona make sure it doesn't have a remote breaker somewhere between it and the power source. <A> My GE panel (150 A service) installed in 1970 in our tract houe has no main 150-A breaker. <S> This is a so called 'split bus' panel. <S> There are four 2-pole breakers in an upper section (30 A, 40 A, 50 A and 60 A, respectively, for the clothes dryer, a/c condensing unit, electric kitchen range, and a "main section" breaker which feeds all the branch circuits in a section below. <S> The output of the "main breaker" is connected to a separate bus below by heavy wires, hence the term "split bus". <S> So I need "four flips" to shut off all power in the house. <S> This kind of panel is no longer manufactured, and at some point I plan to replace it. <S> This may be what you have. <S> I have seen an arrangement where a 2-pole main breaker is in a panel under the meter outside and the other 2-pole 240 V breakers are there too. <S> Then in a separate panel just on the opposite side of the wall inside there is a panel which contains just single pole breakers for the branch circuits with no main breaker for all the branch circuits. <S> I think that technically the inside panel may be a sub-panel.
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Or you may have a main breaker in a panel under the meter.
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How can I get my lawnmower bolt off? I have a Ryobi electric lawnmower, and I want to get the blade sharpened for the first time. I have a 15mm ratchet wrench, just like the instructions say, and I'm immobilizing the blade with a brick. But no matter how hard I turn, the bolt just doesn't budge at all. I called Ryobi support, and they said the only other thing to try was spraying the bolt with WD-40. I assume the bolt is so tight because it hasn't been touched since being assembled at the factory. I did that, let the WD-40 sit for a half hour, and tried again. The bolt still won't budge at all. What are my other options? I don't own an impact wrench. <Q> The handle may not be much longer than the ratchet wrench, but will more safely accept a lever extension. <S> A strong steel pipe of a meter length or better, with an inside diameter to accept the box end wrench will give you an incredible lever arm. <S> If you are confident that you are turning the bolt in the correct direction and that it is designed to be removed in this manner, you are likely to free it up easily. <S> If not, it's also possible to snap the head right off, or worse, break something internally. <S> Your local mower shop may also accept the mower and have the necessary tools to pull the blade. <S> You may have to pay a bit more for the first time, but it's also likely it won't be as difficult to remove the next time. <A> There's a tool I bought that attaches to the side of the mower to hold the blade in place. <S> Not only does it to a far better job of holding the blade, it tends to fare better in torquing <S> The only other thing I could suggest is turn the unit on its side (be careful of the oil if it's a 4 cycle gas) and see if you can get better leverage with your wrench <A> There are some other very good answers already posted but here is another. <S> Make sure it is not a reverse thread nut. <S> I expect that to be the case Ryobi should know this. <S> Using a socket that fits over the ratchet <S> handle you can easily add torque by inserting a socket into the extension thus making the equivalent of a pipe extension , just in case you are as cheap as me and don't want to buy a piece of pipe. <S> Get a propane torch heat the nut area up, quickly place your socket over the nut and loosen ..
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Allowing for the inherent mechanical weaknesses of a ratchet wrench and the limited lever arm provided by such a short handle, consider to purchase or borrow a 15 mm box end wrench.
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Can tile glue for wall tiles contain asbestos? I've got some ceramic tiles I removed for a bathroom remodel. Home was built in 1967 so asbestos was a concern, the floor tiles are vinyl 8x8" and possibly contain asbestos so I am leaving those there and laying over them, but the wall also had a different 4x4" ceramic tiles. I've read that black floor adhesive contains asbestos but what about non-black wall tile glue? Here is a picture: I've not been able to find any info on if this kind of tile glue can contain asbestos, but just wanted to make sure for others more experienced than I. I'm trying to determine if I should scrap off the glue, or just cut off the drywall completely. Then again, I also read some plasters and drywall muds could contain asbestos too, seems like so much can contain it. I just read this comment on a youtube video fro removing drywall: "Most people don't know this but drywall that was installed up to the early 1980s may contain asbestos especially at the joints in the joint compound so the dust can be very dangerous to breath." Should I be concerned about this too? <Q> Yes you are definitely limiting your exposure by removing the drywall and NOT SCRAPING. <S> Even removing the Drywall - asbestos dust can fly around. <S> Get a disposable suit so that you don't get any fibers on your clothing. <S> Get a good respirator suitable for asbestos protection. <S> I am not affiliated in any way with the below link but providing as an example Or buy the Kit <S> not expensive at all - reasonably priced: <S> https://www.pksafety.com/lead-asbestos-removal-pro-kit.html <A> Regarding asbestos, the best rule of thumb is: no one can be sure if any material contains Asbestos until it has been analyzed by a certified laboratory. <S> Prior to the banning of asbestos in the construction industry, asbestos had a wide open market mostly in every fraction of the construction materials due to its durability, flexibility and bonding capacity. <S> So pretty much one can find asbestos in any single material, from glues (resins) to hard elements like tile, siding and roofing. <S> Asbestos is still is a great product, that still have several uses. <S> It is a great insulator, as we can find it in Home insulation, break pads, gaskets and pipe insulation. <S> Asbestos inspectors are also referred as AHERA Inspectors. <S> By law, they can certainly inspect, sample, and analyze every construction material to positively determine whether it contains asbestos or <S> it is free if it. <A> I am removing tile from a wall in my bath room in an early 1920's house too. <S> And with all the research I've done; any glue/adhesive used to adhere tile, wallpaper, joints for water pipes and such, before 1980, companies used asbestos in their adhesives to give them strength. <S> I've concluded that there is a very good possibility there is asbestos in this type of adhesive as well. <S> Since there is no way to know what type of adhesive it is, it is best to treat this as a type of asbestos adhesive. <S> Most companies used asbestos in there glues/adhesives for these types of installations.
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Asbestos is a well known carcinogen fiber that can only be seen under a microscope.
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Is vintage rotary switch DPDT or DPST? I bought an Old porcelain round rotary switch which I thought was single pole i.e. every time I turned the knob on top, the light would go either ON or OFF. There are 4 terminals. When I connect 2 terminals (opposite each other) the switch behaves like single-pole as described above. But this switch has 4 terminal, so I connected a second circuit to the other 2 terminals (double pole?). The results are when I turn the knob, one circuit goes ON and the other goes OFF. And each time I turn the knob the circuit that was ON goes OFF and the circuit that was OFF goes ON. There is no position when both circuits are ON or OFF together. So, is this DPDT or DPST? also, does anyone know what a switch like this would be used for? <Q> It's a bit of an oddity as a result -- it could be used as a 3-way switch, but that'd be silly compared to a normal (SPDT) switch. <A> Thanks for the responses. <S> I tested it as a 3-way & 4-way switch and it cannot be done (I'm sure of this). <S> So, I can say it is definitely a double-pole. <S> The switch cover is also porcelain, so I'm wondering if was used on some Vintage appliance (washing machine,stove, etc.) <S> , instead of it being a wall mounted light switch. <A> Sounds like a DPST rotary switch. <S> Basically it's "On/Off/On/Off" but for a 240v motor that only goes one direction (think big attic fan). <S> When used in conjunction with a capacitor (aka "converter") you can use single phase power to run 3-phase motors. <S> Simple, yet brilliant! <S> I'll try to sketch out a schematic to clarify:
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This is a DPST switch, but with one of the contacts normally open , as you'd expect, and the other contact normally closed .
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Holes in drywall slightly too wide for screws I drilled with 3/8" still bit as instructed, but the holes seem too large for the screws. I'm wondering what the best fix for this would be. Fill the holes up with wood glue and toothpicks and screw into that, or widen the holes to place anchors in and screw in there? Any suggestions would be appreciated. <Q> Putting screws directly into drywall, particularly the type shown in your photo, will rarely (if ever) work. <S> You need to tell us more, however; if you want advice as to what sort of anchoring system you need. <S> What is the reason you need to put screws in the wall? <A> I'd use one of these. <S> They come in a few sizes too <S> so you get the larger size if need be. <A> If you are hanging significant weight it is recommended you use a stud finder to find a stud, "real wood" as carpenters say, to support the load. <S> The newer tapered drywall fasteners you show are ok, but not recommended for anything with decent weight. <S> Use plastic anchors and (a trick) size your bit down one size from the recommended diameter, pump the hole with construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails, or Loctite, and gingerly drive the anchor in as not to bend it -- it will want to bend so tap it. <S> Let the glue setup 24 hours before you put the screw in. <S> This will beef up the load bearing characteristic of the anchor. <S> Don't just screw into drywall without an anchoring system; time and moisture will cause the gypsum to eventually fail and the screw will pull out.
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The drywall is not strong or firm enough to hold screws without hollow-wall anchors of some sort.
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multiple homeruns for neutral only? I work in conduit and run single wires. I have a weird one. I have an always-hot (black) and neutral (white) pair that run from the panel passing through A to serve loads at B and C. At C, always-hot (black) continues to a switch loop at D. The switched-hot (blue) comes back through C, B and A to go down another branch, AA, to serve the lamp. The neutral for the lamp (white) goes from AA through A back to the service panel. The circuit has 2 neutrals (white), one serving the receptacle loads at B and C, and the other serving the lamp load at AA. They pass like ships in the night at A, not connecting, and run alongside in the same conduit from A to the panel. Edit: Here is a drawing. I added a second circuit (red/gray) that is unrelated, simply to illustrate that boxes B and C have a lot of other stuff going on. Is it kosher for the circuit (black) to have two neutrals on the neutral bar? <Q> Here is the deal: <S> No matter how you wire things, you normally need to have two wires. <S> One with the outgoing current and one with the return current. <S> Otherwise you will get inductive heating of any ferrous materials. <S> So, to answer your question, the neutral at point <S> A may or may not be joined. <S> This is a fielder's choice since all of the current leaving the panel on the black wire is returning on the two neutrals so the net current (algebraic sum of the current) in the conduit from the panel to point A is zero. <S> However, it is bad technique to have more than one neutral return to the panel per phase conductor. <S> It could be confusing to a future electrician. <S> This is the key: <S> The algebraic sum of current at any point in the system must add to zero to avoid inductive heating. <S> Good luck and stay safe! <A> I am not sure I am reading your question properly. <S> NEC Article 300.3 (B). <S> Yes if all you are saying is that the neutral does not go from load A to a switch in D. <S> It's important to identified each neutral For B and C, and the neutral for A if they are two different neutrals and not connect them together. <S> Sidebar: <S> NEC 210.4 (B). <A> I think as long as you pig tail the netuals in the panel as to function as one neutral and tape the pass thrus together in the junction box then should be kosher.
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A neutral serving more than one circuit, the overcurrent device must be interlocked. If you split a neutral (return the outgoing current back to the source in a separate conduit) you will get inductive heating. No, if the entire circuit does not run grouped throughout the length of the circuit.
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Wiring a 2 pole circuit Can I use a #8 and a #6 wire for a 40 amp circuit?I know individually the size is fine,just not sure about mixing them a#8 for one leg and #6 for the other <Q> Each circuit has a minimum wire size. <S> Other than that <S> , you can upsize wires anytime you want . <S> There's no restriction. <S> The wires must, of course, fit the terminations. <S> So if you use #12 Romex to branch off a 15A circuit, you will not be using backstsbs on that receptacle. <S> To reverse it, if your circuit is almost entirely #12, but has one bit of #14, it is a 15A circuit. <A> Your question is a little vague. <S> Let's say you are using a #6 for a 120V 20A circuit and a #8 for a neutral, and a #8 is adequate to carry your load. <S> However, if you are using a #8 and a #6 as a 240V 40A circuit. <S> This creates an imbalance of the load and causes all kinds of different problems. <S> First an imbalance of a load and an impedance problem causing overheating and improper operation of the load of the equipment you are using. <S> I don't think there is an exact NEC code for a branch wire, but Article 310.10(H) <S> (even though it covers parallel feeders) does try to explain the engineering reason why it would not be prudent to do what your are trying. <S> It's one of those things that is covered in an Engineering or Electrician training classes. <A> If you're running individual conductors you have to be in conduit. <S> You didn't mention an equipment grounding conductor, so now your conduit has to be metal that's properly installed to be the equipment ground. <S> If all else is right and the circuit is sized for the smaller conductor, I'd say you're good to go.
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Then it is perfectly fine to use the wires as you have described.
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What does "No Other Outlets" mean for a kitchen 20A branch circuit? I'm trying to wire my kitchen up to code, which means (based on the outlet spacing rules) I need 6 counter-top outlets. How many branch circuits do I need? When the NEC talks about the 2 "appliance" branch circuits required to be installed on kitchen counters, it says in 210.52(B)(1), the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A) and then immediately follows that with: 210.52(B)(2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets. Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electrical clock in any of the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units. I can see two possible ways of understanding "other outlets" in context, and I don't know which is correct: It could mean, "Outlets besides the receptacles 210.52(B)(1) described aren't allowed on the appliance branch circuits," in which case I could do however many receptacles can be on a circuit normally . But it could also mean, "the appliance branch circuits must have exactly one outlet each," in which case all 6 outlets would need to connect directly to 6 individual breakers in the panel. Which is it? <Q> 210.52(B)(2) is saying you should install 2 small appliance loads specifically for small appliances and are only allowed kitchens, dining rooms, and other specified locations. <S> Usually they are circuits installed around the countertops of a kitchen. <S> So you may not use them for general purpose receptacles in other rooms. <S> They should not be used for disposals, dishwashers, etc. <S> In your second comment you are misreading Table 210.24. <S> It refers to circuits with a single receptacle. <S> And all of that is for general power receptacles. <S> Remember you are installing small appliance receptacles. <S> That means you may be connecting up an 1100W coffee maker and then say a 860W countertop Microwave and running them at the same time. <S> Then you decide to pop on the toaster. <S> If these are all on the same circuit, you be trying to get back to your panel to try and find the breaker you just tripped. <S> And you haven't even had your first cup of coffee. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Again, for comm application only. <S> Resi general branch circuits are calculated at 3 VA per square foot. <S> Go figure.. <S> Recepts on a general branch circuit in a resi dwelling are not defined by 180 VA/ outlet and therefore that code secton is not applicable here. <S> It is allowed for recepts (again resi application) to be combined with lighting on the same circuit, and now it would take some science to nail this down. <S> Generally, as a rule of thumb - 15 to 18 outlets, whether plugs or switches is acceptable on a 15A GENERAL BRANCH CIRCUIT. <S> Never ever did I have an overload problem in my 20+ years of experience. <A> Ok.. <S> My own limited knowledge from codes and studies are the following: <S> USA Codes so far, within my knowledge, have no national code on number of outlets per circuit breaker in the kitchen but require a minimum of 2 small equipment circuits, however there are many different local and state codes that do have requirements. <S> Canadian code is a minimum of two circuits, and no more than 2 outlet points per circuit. <S> An outlet point being a Duplex outlet or a single outlet. <S> Jamaican code is no more than 3 outlet points per circuit. <S> Separate dedicated outlets required for refrigerator, freezer, stove, microwave, garbage disposal, dishwasher, washer. <S> UK code is to use dedicated rings, one for kitchen plus one for other areas, up to 100 meters floor space, but suggests 2 rings for kitchen based on international suggestions. <S> Not required but suggested is feeding refrigerator from either a radial or a fused spur. <S> Again, only what I have been getting from my various studies and experiences in several jurisdiction, but only a journeyman electrician, not a master.
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Remember you can install more than two small appliance circuits if you see the need. Generally I would never put more than 4 duplex receptacles on a small appliance circuit. You can only connect no more than 10 receptacles on a 20A circuit or 8 receptacles on a 15A circuit.
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Is a California corner as strong as 3 or 4 stud corner? I want to build the best exterior corners for a house in a high wind (wind not earthquake) area. I will not ever use a 2 stud corner with clips for multiple reasons. However I would like to use a California corner (2nd example) instead of a 3 or 4 stud (last example) exterior corner if the 2nd option will be as strong? The physics seems to rely on the the direction the wind comes from and which wall is bracing from that direction of wind. So I get that, but I want to know if the 3 stud corner would be as strong as the other option? There is less surface area to nail to. This would be 2x6 construction. <Q> Wind damage to the house is not likely to result from bending of the wall studs, even at the corners. <S> Wind-induced damage will occur at the joints between the studs and the soles or caps. <S> Use the design that will allow the maximum area of attachment between the corners and the sheathing. <S> The "four stud" corner provides the maximum nailing area on both outside surfaces. <S> The "California" corner requires that the sheathing on one of the walls be nailed to the 1.5" narrow edge of a stud. <S> Many framers will not build two-stud or three-stud corners, not because they are more likely to bend, but because they provide insufficient nailing surface. <A> If you are committed to interstitial (inside the walls) insulation, and are truly all that worried about heat loss in the corners, you should consider using the "Massachusetts corner" construction: <S> This takes some patience and extra labor to construct, but allows interstitial insulation to flow completely around the corner. <S> The interior angle should be constructed separately, with lots of nails and perhaps even small metal straps across the seam. <S> The important thing is to make it extremely stiff to support the interior drywall corner. <S> It looks like quite a departure from standard practices but it is actually a lot stronger than the two-stud corner with those stupid drywall clips. <S> Now you can concentrate your attention on those awful cold strips caused by all the other studs between the outside corners. <A> Your structure's resistance to wind forces is going to come from your sheathing and from having a continuous load path to the foundation. <S> Wind will cause uplift forces on the roof, shear forces between the base of the wall and the foundation, uplift on the windward wall due to rotational forces, and the more obvious shear forces making your walls want to "lean". <S> The studs are not what's doing the work in that situation. <S> Nailing surface is gonna help with the last one to keep your sheathing in place but not with the others. <S> I know it's a little outside the scope of your question <S> but .... <S> just throwing that out there. <S> Hurricane clips and appropriate hardware from the Simpson catalog are your best friend. <S> There are corner straps that will cover the bases if you really want that nice light California corner, and will do a lot more than an extra stud will. <A> If you're overly concerned about lack of nailing surface at the corner on the "open" side of the California Corner, add an additional stud about 1-1/2" from the face of the interior stud. <S> Leaves you enough room to spray foam insulation behind it, and provides an added bit of nailing surface less than 12" from the corner. <S> That 12" gap isn't going to give up that much in the physics department. <A> Rather, the shear walls tend to “un-zip” from the foundation. <S> As you can imagine, the force from wind is NOT evenly distributed along a shear wall. <S> Rather, the force to rotate the wall is greatest near the end of the shear wall closest to the wind load. <S> (It’s different in seismically resistive walls.) <S> Once that upward force (rotation) starts, it will just un-zip <S> the shear wall from the foundation. <S> That’s why we use holddowns at the corners of shear walls. <S> If you want to increase your shear wall resistance to wind: 1) change the wall sheathing from OSB board to plywood, 2) increase the thickness of plywood from 1/2” to 5/8” or 3/4”, 3) <S> install blocking at plywood edges, 4) <S> keep studs at 16” on center rather than 24” on center, 5) decrease the nailing from 6” on center along the sheathing edges and 12” in the field, to 2” along the edges and 4” in the field. <S> (Btw, the studs need to be 3” minimum thickness at the edges according to code, or the studs split due to nails too close together.) <S> 6) increase anchor bolts from 1/2” at 4’ on center to 5/8” at 24” on center and use a 3” square washer... <S> instead of those little 1” diameter washers. <S> Likewise, the connection from the top floor to the lower floor needs strapping, etc. <S> for holddown or the upper shear walls could un-zip from the lower walls. <S> Summary: <S> There are many design techniques for wind resistance. <A> The claim here is that the two stud corner reduces drywall cracking at the corner. <S> Sheathing and bracing would provide the needed shear strength.
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The exterior sheathing is what will provide stiffness and stability to the entire structure. The easiest way to make the corner straight is to temporarily clamp the 1"x4" boards to a straight stud before nailing them together. The weak-link in a shear wall is not the nailing of corners together. If you live in a high wind area, I’d check with local contractors to see what the normal “standard” is for your area, or consult with an architect or structural engineer (not a civil engineer). "The best exterior corners for a house in high wind area": Get the Simpson catalog and invest in a continuous load path.
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Do I really need 10 AWG wire for a AC condenser that says 15 AMP max? I'm buying a used AC condenser for a rental property. The unit says max amps = 15 (see below), however the HVAC guy tells me I want a 20AMP double pole breaker with 10 AWG? I would have though 15 AMP double pole with 12 AWG would be fine. Is he correct? The wire length is probably 20 feet max. <Q> It says specifically that you must use a 15A breaker max. <S> Max means not 20. <S> It also says you must use a HACR breaker. <S> All new breakers are HACR. <S> You are required to comply with a component's labeling and instructions. <S> NEC 110.3. <S> You cannot go " <S> la la <S> la, I think I'll do something else because reasons". <S> Unless you can convince your AHJ of the reasons. <S> (AHJ is your local government which issues permits and does inspections.) <S> Why is the wire 10 AWG? <S> Being Future-proof . <S> The cost of wire ($5) is next to nothing compared to the cost of tearing out 12 AWG wire to replace it with 10 AWG (hundred$). <S> The last guy installed the heavier wire so you'd be "good to go". <S> You do still need to change the breaker to correct size, but that's cheap. <A> Here is a good article and presentation about 100% vs. 80% rated breakers. <S> http://blog.schneider-electric.com/datacenter/power-and-cooling/2014/06/12/clearing-confusion-80-vs-100-rated-circuit-breakers/ <S> In this case, I trust your HVAC guy even though it appears to me as well that he is oversizing the wire and the breaker. <S> I am an engineer who has worked on testing breaker and relay products for electricians in the past. <S> Thermal-magnetic breakers can trip at levels below even their 80% rating if temperature in the breaker panel is high. <S> Also, a brown out or saggy mains voltage can cause increased current needs to your device and result in breaker trips. <S> Because this is an AC unit, it will likely be run when the voltage mains are at their lowest. <S> I've also seen some breakers which simply were not meeting their spec and trip earlier than expected. <S> So your guy might be just playing it safe, but I think he may have reasons to suspect you will be getting nuisance tripping on that unit unless you do as he said. <S> You wouldn't want your tenants to be calling over and over because you cheaped out on this. <S> And you would likely then call to complain to him that he messed up. :) <A> Typically in an ideal situation I would use the next size up breaker and size the wire accordingly. <S> Then at the disconnect use the size fuse required by the unit. <S> The fuses are slow blow so they won’t pop with the high startup current but the breakers blow quickly. <S> Doing it this way tends to have fewer nuisance trips. <S> Wiring everything for 15 amps would be perfectly acceptable and realistically should not have any problems.
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As for the 10AWG wire, I suspect he chose this not to meet code, but to eliminate voltage drop in your wire run and hopefully stop any nuisance tripping. The important thing is to have something that will trip at 15 amps to avoid damage to the air conditioner.
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Hammering a rebar into the ground without bending it I want to hammer a rebar into semi-hard ground (about 2 feet in). What options do I have in order to hammer it in straight, without bending it in the process? EDIT: This is a 3/8″ diameter rebar. Tools I'm currently thinking of: Sledge Hammer - worried that there are better chances of the rebar bending in the process. Rotary Hammer - haven't used a tool like this before. What are the pros/cons? (other than the higher price, compared to a sledge hammer) Any other options I'm missing here? Thanks <Q> You might also want to bevel the tip of the rod, so <S> it's not just a blunt end. <A> Assuming you are talking about small-diamter bar, which seems likely as you are concerned about bending it, I would suggest a long (12-18" or so) <S> drill bit and drilling a hole in the ground to get the rebar started straight, before finishing with a hammer. <S> A masonry bit will hold up to such abuse best (and do better if it meets a serious rock), but if you don't care about any other use from it you might be able to use a normal twist-drill bit (ie, something cheap and awful to begin with that you won't mind dulling.) <A> I have effectively used a 24" long earth auger driven by an ordinary cordless drill to make a pretty good hole for placement of a steel post for a sign. <S> You might try placing the end of the rebar in the chuck of a good cordless or corded drill and see if you can force it into the ground while running the drill. <S> It could be that you might modify the end of the rebar to make it cut better, e.g., sharpen it or flatten it. <A> Good ideas above... <S> the one my electrician taught me is to soak (with water) <S> the ground you're putting the rod into. <S> It astonished me at how much easier driving rod was.
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Depending on the size, you could see about renting a demolition hammer and a ground rod drive bit.
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A proper tool for removing a PEX pipe from a fitting barb When a pinch crimp has to be removed and re-done, what is the proper tool to remove the PEX pipe from a barb after removing the clamp and cutting of the pipe? I thought of using the PEX pipe cutter's blade but am afraid it would mar the ribs on the barb and cause a leak when it's subsequently re-used. In my particular case I am using a 3/4 elbow like this with a PEX pipe which is white on the o/s and black on the i/s if it matters. So if I had to undo and re-do this kind of connection, I would open one of the pinch rings and cut off the pipe, but don't know how to remove what's left under the former crimp: <Q> Or a pair of wire cutter pliers. <S> Leave a little extra pipe on the end <S> so you can grab it with the pliers and peel the pipe off. <A> I'm using this Home Depot cutter: <S> ( Husky 7 in. <S> Diagonal Pliers ) <S> gripping the crimp between the 2 blades turning the cutter <S> and it pops open, then cut the pipe with a utility knife. <A> Cut your crimp off as described. <S> Using a heat gun, start waving it at your connection while pulling the two apart. <S> You just don't want to get things to hot as the fumes probably are not healthy. <S> I held the fitting in a vise with the intent of re-using the fitting... <S> it comes off pretty easy after it warms up. <S> It would probably work out in the field where it may not be as easy but the fitting comes off pretty easily once it gets the right temp. <S> Good Luck TC
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I would use a utility knife to score the pipe.
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What paint for a tire swing? I just bought a big used tire and hung it as a tire swing. I pressure washed it, but it still sheds a little black residue. I'd love to seal it/paint it, but am not sure what would stick to a tire and not crack over time in the sun. Any recommendations? <Q> You can find this online by searching for "tire dressing" or "tire shine". <S> It should also be available at your local auto parts store. <S> My experience with products of this type is that they give the rubber of the tire a surface that is glossy look and a smooth feel. <S> Exposure to sun and weather will likely require re-application from time to time but should certainly reduce the amount of "rub off" coming off the tire. <A> I'd try two things. <S> First, I'd wax it with auto wax. <S> This will result in a dry finish that probably won't rub off more than the tire itself did. <S> If that doesn't work, try polishing the surface with a torch. <S> Maybe by melting it slightly you'll get a more sealed finish. <A> A few companies (e.g., Krylon and Rust-OLeum that I know of) make paint specifically designed for plastics. <S> They're for uses such as refinishing lawn furniture. <S> They're tough, flexible, and bond with the plastic. <S> I have no idea how well it would bond with a tire since tires are designed to not be affected by the hydrocarbon solvents that are used as vehicle fuels and additives. <S> But the paint is readily available at big hardware chains, and it would be relatively inexpensive to try.
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You could try the type of tire dressing like auto detailers use to spruce up the sidewalls of the tires on cars/trucks.
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How do I mount a 70" TV to wall when the studs are in the wrong place? I want to mount a 70" tv (68lbs) to a wall, but all the wall mounts I find need to be mounted between studs. The studs above my fireplace are 16" apart, but there's one stud about 2" off center of the center of the fireplace. If I mount the bracket so that there's a stud on either side, I'll end up with a TV significantly off center... What are my options? Should I just use a piece of 3/4" plywood and hang it between the existing studs? Thanks! <Q> This is to account for different stud spacing, as well as allow for several lateral positions so that the TV is not off center. <S> Double check your mount instructions, to ensure it will not accommodate your stud spacing. <S> I'm very suspicious that the mount says it must be mounted between studs, as you want that kind of load directly into at least one stud. <S> If it won't, then attaching 3/4" plywood to the studs, and the mount to the plywood, is indeed the way to go. <A> Every time I have run across this problem I have taken a board about the same hight as the wall mount bracket and mounted the board across 3 studs. <S> Then paint it the same color as the wall if necessary ( <S> most if not all of it will be hidden behind your massive TV anyways). <S> 3 studs is probably way more than needed to hold the weight, but when hanging very expensive things above people's heads better to go for too strong than not strong enough. <S> Then you can safely mount that bracket anywhere you want along the board. <S> The board also gives a nice spot to mount a power bar, and any small electronics like an Android box without mucking around with drywall anchors. <A> easy fix. <S> I purchased a wall mount extender from Mounting Dream. <S> They have a Facebook page or you can order on Amazon. <S> Let's you extend mount from that standard size all the way out to like 24 inches for those of us whose wall studs happen to be spaced awkwardly.
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Most every mount I've seen has several holes through which it can be secured to studs.
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How to remove the handle on my Delta faucet? One of my faucets is leaking in my bathroom sink. I have a double-handle faucet set from Delta. I removed the set screw from the cover but, for some reason, the cover still isn't coming off. I tried using a putty knife and screwdriver to pry the cover off but it's stuck. I also used WD40 to try to loosen it but that didn't help either. How much force is required to remove the cover if I keep pulling up on it? Is there some other screw that's holding it that I don't know about? Am I missing one of the steps necessary in removing the cover? UPDATE: I squirted WD40, CLR, and vinegar into both the handle hole and set screw hole but it didn't help. I expected the liquid to flow down between the cover and the stem/cartridge but it seems like the liquid has no place to go so it comes out the same hole it went in. I tried using a hair dryer to heat the cover so that it will expand but that also didn't work. I've also tried hitting up on the cover with a rubber mallet to knock it up off the stem/cartridge. No luck there. Lastly, I tried to wrap a rag around the handle and used pliers to try to pull up on it but that also didn't help. In fact, even with the rag and the teeth of the pliers covered with electrical tape, it still scratched up the cover. Is there something else I can/should try? Is there a way to squirt things up from the bottom of the cover to dissolve the dirt/minerals that's holding the handle tight to the stem? <Q> It should just pull off. <S> If it doesn't, you might try gently wiggling it side to side as you pull up. <S> The trick is to be gentle enough to not break anything, but firm enough to knock it loose. <A> If you are sure it should slide straight up and you have removed the set screw, I would try a moulding bar or another type of thin pry bar inserted at the margin where the faucet and the trim ring come together. <S> You will also need a small block of wood to use as a fulcrum to raise the pry bar high enough to be at the level of the aforementioned margin and to protect the counter top. <S> Start by prying gently all the way around faucet a little at a time and increase pressure until you get movement. <S> Only you can decide how badly you want to save the faucet and use as much force as you desire to remove it. <S> Unfortunately, this method is likely to cause some damage to the lower edge of the faucet depending on how much pressure is required. <S> If prying fails and you want to replace the faucet anyway, I would take a hacksaw to the margin and cut the top of the faucet right off and continue its removal. <S> I won't ever buy another Delta faucet as I have had problems like this with them in the past. <S> Good luck! <A> It looks like you have one of Delta's older 3530 models. <S> Looking at the exploded diagram for this model shows part <S> # H24 (the handle covers) with only a set screw holding it in place. <S> If you've already removed that and the cover still won't lift off, it may be bound up on the stem from having been turned too far in one direction or the other (if it was leaking, I could imagine someone may have tried extra-hard to turn it off). <S> I would try slowly but forcefully turning the faucet handle past its resistance point, with it in <S> the on position first, then if that doesn't loosen it, try doing the same but the other direction with it in the off position. <S> You may have to alternate this a few times to get it to free itself from the teeth on the stem. <S> If none of that works, there is a retaining nut on the underside of the sink counter (part # RP9519 in the diagram). <S> It's not a very thick nut, so you'll have to put your hand right against the underside of the counter top to feel it. <S> The threaded part of the stem assembly likely extends well past the nut, you'll need to make many turns to get it off. <S> Taking the handle out from the counter will let you examine it in more detail <S> and you can take tools to the less attractive parts to gain torque, hopefully avoiding any more scratches on the handle itself. <S> Just be careful not to grip too tightly on the screw threads or you won't be able to reattach it to the counter! <A> It will pry off, you just need the right leverage. <S> Using one pry bar will not do it, it will take two, one from either side, using the dress ring as the fulcrum at first. <S> The pry bar I refer to is the larger one of the three. <S> The key is keeping the fulcrum as close to the handle as possible. <S> If it does not give enough room to lift the handle before the end bottoms out on the counter top, raise the fulcrum using a small gauge nail or even a sort piece of wire. <S> Important to use the right size to keep it on the dress ring (escutcheon) <S> There is a beveled side of the pry bar, keep that side down, flat side up. <S> This will help keep the pry bar under the handle edge. <S> place a little tape on the escutcheon to keep from marring it with the bars. <S> There are replacement handles available. <S> Delta warranted my faucet for life and gave me a replacement cartridge for free. <S> No charges at all. <S> If you give a call and tell them your plight, they may replace you handle too. <S> Of course they will need the model number or style. <A> I had the same issue. <S> We ended up using a drill bit a little larger than the allen screw that was stripped and drilled through the screw. <S> It came off easily.
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If you have a rubber or plastic mallet, you could try giving it a gentle tap to free it up.
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Bathroom GFCI outlet tripped after turning on my razor! Yesterday, I opened up my old "Racine" brand razor and cleaned out the whiskers that were in it. Afterwards, I turned it on and I noticed it was quieter. But a minute later I noticed that the familiar "buzz" came back, so I applied some machine oil on the blades. Then I turned it on and my bathroom GFCI tripped. 1...Did that old 1960's razor finally receive a ground fault? 2...Had it not been plugged into a GFCI outlet, would I have been electrocuted instead? 3...Did my opening it up to clean it out have anything to do with it? I did not spill any water on it. AndI don't think my applying oil on the blades had anything to do with it, as I have done that many times before. But this was the first time I have ever opened it up to clean it out. I also noticed something was rattling loose inside it shortly before the GFCI was tripped. In any case, it looks like it's time for me to buy a new razor! And when I throw out the old razor, I'll be sure to cut the cord off first, lest some dumpster diver (like me) pick it out of the dumpster. <Q> Yes, since your razor has two prongs, it cannot develop a ground fault by itself... <S> a ground fault requires a third path. <S> Indeed, the path was through you, and indeed, it probably would have killed you. <S> And this is why we have GFCIs in bathrooms . <S> My guess is also that the unit is repairable, but will need some careful and/or expert attention. <S> It sounds like you did find a problem, but shrugged it off because you want to shave. <S> You will not find another unit of this quality except maybe the $100+ Euro jobs. <A> Judging from the age of that razor it had two prongs so could not have actually had a ground fault. <S> Your biggest clue is that it seemed to be running more slowly than you thought it should. <S> After a while it sped up. <S> Then you shut it off and tried again, but by then the lubricant was hardening again. <S> I have a fan like that. <S> Once it starts running (5-10 minutes after turning it on) <S> I know not to turn it off or it may take a long time to get back up to speed again. <S> Being slowed down like that can increase the current draw, thus reducing the circuit voltage to the point that a GFCI won't function correctly. <S> (They don't work unless they have enough power) <S> As long as that all looks good then you can blame the razor. <S> If there is a different problem, like something electrically wrong upstream, it might be reducing the voltage to the GFCI. <A> My apologies to “SDsolar” for switching my “green arrow“ vote from his answer to “Harper’s“ answer instead. <S> Here is my rationale, with a consolation prize for SDsolar. <S> Re:question #1... <S> Re: <S> Question #2... <S> Only Harper mentioned that I probably would have been killed had it not been plugged into a GFCI. <S> Re: question #3…Only Harper mentioned that my tearing down the razor probably triggered the GFCI event. <S> But here is the consolation prize for SDsolar. <S> Since my original post with these three questions, I have since had a SECOND razor trip that same GFCI! <S> SDsolar suggested I test the GFCI by plugging in a lamp. <S> (In fact, recently I replaced all of my outlets, including having all of my outlet circuits GFCI protected)And <S> I have not had any problems with my electric toothbrush plugged into my new bathroom GFCI outlet. <S> But more importantly, only SDsolar suggested that the lubrication oil hardening may have caused the GFCI to trip. <S> For that reason, if it were possible I would have declared it a TIE. <S> But it ain’t. <S> Long story short, I believe that is what caused the second razor to trip the GFCI, especially since the instructions say to use their special lubrication oil, instead of the generic machine oil that I used. <S> But to be honest, the second razor was one that I found in the dumpster. <S> Though it worked fine until the day it tripped the new GFCI. <S> I still have both razors with a note around them saying not to use them because they tripped the GFCI outlet. <S> Conclusion: <S> it’s time for me to buy a new razor. <S> Until then, I’ll just have to lather up and use a Gilette! <S> Thank you SDsolar and Harper for your answers, and also for those others of you who contributed comments.
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Both of you answered that question to my satisfaction, declaring that my old razor did not get a ground fault because it only had a two-pronged plug. So in order to make sure your GFCI is working correctly I'd suggest plugging in a lamp or a circuit tester. I replaced my bathroom GFCI just recently, as my old one kept on tripping without provocation. I would wager that it could simply be that the old lubricant had hardened and slowed it down due to age. Tearing it down was probably the triggering event. That could very well be a safety issue, and should be investigated.
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How do I shut down power on my standalone generator so it doesn't backfeed while I put a 100 Amp panel in my polebarn? Hello to all of you folks this is probably going to sound like a stupid question and I'm kind of feeling stupid for asking it but I need to know?? Ok my dad has a stand alone generator and what I need to know is how I disable it from coming on while i'm putting a 100 amp panel in place of the old fuse box that is currently in his tool shed?? Thanks so much. <Q> Leave a sign informing others not to reconnect it without your permission. <S> You could even take the battery away to be extra safe. <A> There's nothing stupid about this. <S> Mains electrical is serious business, and is a craft entirely separate from EE. <S> (No offense but <S> nobody thinks putting gas in their weedwacker qualifies them to drive a gasoline truck.) <S> So when dealing with mains electrical, bring your best game, a good "homeowner fix-it" guidebook, and a willingness to think different - because everything is different! <S> While there is much good advice here on how to disable the generator mechanically, I would also look for a way to disconnect it electrically . <S> For instance, a proper generator interlock prevents both utility supply and generator from both being turned on at the same time -- <S> but does allow both to be turned off . <S> E.G. in this dog-simple example: Both supply-main breakers are faced opposite: inward is on. <S> Left breaker is off, right is on, and the interlock allows the right one to be turned off. <S> src <S> Speaking of that, this is also a good time to make sure that the generator is installed to Code. <S> A huge number of generators aren't. <A> Typically: Set control to manual, or press the emergency stop. <S> Disconnect the starter relay. <S> Disconnect (and lock) the circuit breaker. <S> Apply sign: "Maintenance lockout! <S> Label only to be removed by Araho [phone number]". <S> Not all of them might be applicable to your generator. <A> The easiest way, if it's gas (i.e. not diesel) is to simply pull the boots off the spark plug. <S> If it's more than one cylinder, LABEL THEM!
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Disconnect the starting battery cable on the generator.
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Can I put a window a/c through the wall? Does anyone know the difference between a window and a wall air conditioner? The window unit is much cheaper. I see several units here that appear to be window units and through the wall...there is no "sleeve" on them. Thank you! <Q> Apparently window and wall a/c units are not interchangeable, althoughI don't have the details of the difference. <S> This may allow the window units to be cheaper. <S> In contrast a wall can be 6" thick or more; wall units must have all vents close to the back of the unit. <S> BTW I always thought that the vents in the side of a window unit were for intake of air at ambient temperature to then be directed through the condenser coil at the back plane of the unit to be exhausted out the back (now hotter than ambient), but in fact some of the side vent area may also be used for expelling air which cools motors. <S> It could be that in a window unit the venting on <S> one side is devoted to intake of air for the condenser coil and the venting on the other side is for exhaust. <S> This would prevent the hot exhaust air being pulled in the intake for the condenser cooling air. <S> Window ACs vs. Through-the-Wall ACs <S> It's easy to compare window and thru-wall ACs, because they're similar in cooling capacity and size, but through-the-wall units tend to be slightly more efficient because they create an airtight seal in the room. <S> The major differences between these ACs involve installation and venting. <S> Window ACs fit through a window and don’t require permanent installation, while thru-wall ACs are actually built into the wall—making them popular in rooms without windows or for people who prefer to leave their windows alone. <S> Wall air conditioners typically only vent warm air through the back of the unit, while window ACs vent from the sides and back. <S> For this reason, window and thru-wall models are not interchangeable (even if they're the same size). <S> In most cases, if a window unit vents out its side, the wall will block the vents and cause overheating. <S> Select window AC models can be installed through a wall, but only if they have a slide-out chassis wall sleeve. <S> Read more on wall sleeves . <S> https://www.sylvane.com/thru-wall-air-conditioner-buying-guide.html#vs . <A> If you have a window AC with slide our chasses. <S> Check the distance from the chassis front to the fist vent. <S> (Say 8 inches) <S> Now measure your wall thinkness. <S> If less that the first measurement (8 inches in my case) then installing installing the chassis through the wall and then sliding in the AC unit should work just fine. <S> Keep in mind that a platform of 2 x 4"s (or other) needs to from out the AC Chassis. <S> In the end be sure to seal the chassis from out side air. <S> THAT SAID! <S> CAUTION <S> If you have vinyl siding the vents on the AC unit may be too close to the siding may warp the siding. <A> I put an inexpensive window unit high on a wall without knowing the could be a problem. <S> The wall is standard 2 X 4 with drywall both sides. <S> It has been fine for about 10 years. <S> My problem is the subdivision does not permit window units. <S> It cools a room on the garage. <S> It is between the room and the garage; it draws air for the condenser from the garage and exhausts hot air into the attic. <S> I built a plenum of 1/4" paneling to do this. <S> Can't remember any details, but it was nothing unusual. <S> It has a remote , I thought now, they all had remotes . <A> I have actually put a "dryer vent" A/C unit (like this one through the wall (only the hoses went). <S> It was a double vent unit as well. <S> I had to construct a hood for it with window netting, but it worked well enough. <S> Just be sure to also add a drain hose so it can run outside <S> or you'll be dealing with the drain pan as well.
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EDIT Window units are designed to take advantage of the fact that a window is a thin partition; vents on the outside of the a/c case can be close to the inside part of the a/c unit, but still be outside (where they have to be).
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How can I determine which is the neutral wire in an old house light box? I went to wire the replacement ceiling fan and discovered the colors of the house wiring to not be identifiable. They both look white. On the other hand they both look black. How can I determine which is the white common wire? I have access to a cheap multimeter if needed. <Q> Plug a modern (polarity-enforced) extension cord into a nearby outlet. <S> Set your multimeter to 200V AC (or something just above line voltage where you are). <S> Touch the negative probe to the neutral (wide in the US <S> ) slot of your cord, and the positive probe to each of the wires in your light box. <S> Only the hot should show voltage near line-level. <S> (The neutral may show residual or induced voltage at a much lower level.) <A> If there is a ground in the box, or if its a metal box and its grounded, then measuring from the hot wire would show voltage and the neutral would not. <S> Also, you could get a non-contact voltage tester and it may indicate the hot wire if they are separated by a small amount. <S> Here's an example tester . <A> Looking at the picture it appears the two wire twisted together would be the neutral so that would probably make the single wire a switch leg. <S> Is there a switch attached? <S> Also looking at you wiring is the old rubber insulation with cloth covering last used around 1950. <S> Be very careful handling it as the insulation will crack and short out. <S> You might think about scheduling replacement it with a newer type system like NM. <S> This could be over time. <S> For example your replacing the ceiling fan. <S> Why not look into replacing all of the wiring and appurtenances at least back to the switch or a junction box or the entire circuit. <S> Then the next time you are fixing or replacing something. <S> Do the same thing. <S> This is just a suggestion.
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If so you could check to see if the wire has voltage when the switch is on and no voltage when you turn the switch off.
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Using a window air conditioner outside and redirecting the cold air into room with ducts So I plan on using two ducts, one to take air from my room and move it to the cooling coils of the air conditioner, and another duct to redirect the cold air from the window air conditioner back into my room. The window air conditioner will be located outdoors next to my room. I might use fans to help with air flow if the air conditioner's fan is not strong enough. Can someone tell me why this is a bad idea and how to go about constructing it well? <Q> I saw this set up you are thinking about doing in 1968 at a donut shop in Pittsburgh, Pa. <S> and it worked <S> okay. <S> (wow how time flies) <S> They did a lot of stupid things then to save a few dollars. <S> The duct work was oversized to reduce friction loss for both the supply air and the return air. <S> After a few years and many very expensive service calls they made the correct decision and installed a different system. <S> Sometimes cheap ideas are just cheap and dumb ideas. <S> "My 2 cents". <A> There's really no problem with doing so outside the logistics of it, assuming you use large enough and/or smooth enough ducting. <S> I wouldn't try to do it with flexible dryer hose, for example. <S> 6" smooth (rigid) or 8" flex might suit. <S> I'd keep a close eye on things to be sure that it's not either overheating or icing up. <A> You would have to insulate the both the duct from the conditioned space and the duct to the conditioned space since the air in both will be cooler than the outside temperature. <S> You would have to use flex duct and then protect it from the sun, weather and animals. <S> This installation would be unsightly and interfere with movement outside. <S> You would have to go outside to adjust the controls, unless the unit has a wireless remote. <S> This installation would void the warranty. <S> Abandon this idea!
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Servicing this unit was extremely hard and very expensive since the duct had to be disassembled every service call. The part of the a/c unit which would normally be inside would have to be protected from weather because it is not designed to be rained on or otherwise exposed.
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Additional exhaust vents needed for whole house fan I need ~8-10 sq ft of additional exhaust vents to accommodate a new 7600 cfm whole house fan. Uncertain if add'l soffit vents needed for adequate ventilation flow through attic. Planning to install 3 dormer vents near ridge. Two screened gable vents (2 ft x 1 ft) installed when house was built. <Q> If it's not enough, figure how much more you need to add to satisfy the fan, then balance that to provide 50-60% of the total attic ventilation as intake (soffits or low on the roof) and 40-50% as exhaust (gables or high on the roof). <S> When you run the house fan, it can pressurize the attic and exhaust out of all the vents, including the soffits. <S> Since you only run the fan a short time in the morning, before the attic heats up, there won't be any issue with air going out the soffits instead of in. <S> When you turn off the fan and the attic heats up, the airflow will return to normal - in the soffits and out the ridge and gables. <S> A whole house fan needs 1 ft^2 NFVA per 750 CFM. <S> A 36" whole house fan moving 7600 CFM from the house into the attic needs a total of 7600/750 <S> = 10.13 ft^2 or <S> about 1460 in^2 of net free vent area (NFVA) from the attic to the outside. <S> 1460 <S> *40% = 584, 1460*50% = 730, 1460*60% = 876. <S> Thus, you should aim to have 730 to 876 in^2 <S> NFVA in your soffits and 584 to 730 in^2 for exhaust as high as practical. <S> FWIW, a combination of soffit & ridge vent (or near the ridge) is better than soffit & gables. <S> The gables don't remove the hot air from above them or as effectively from the center of the house. <A> Hmmm... <S> I think we're discussing two different things. <S> Attic vents are in terms of "square inches." <S> Room vents are discussed in terms of cfm. <S> Attic vents, Soffit vents, etc. are placed for "cross-ventilation" and generally not motorized. <S> Equipment measured in cfm is sized for make-up air, exhaust ventilation, etc. <S> The 7600 cfm fan you mention should not be bringing in air from the attic nor exhausting air from the house into the attic. <S> If you have a ventilation system (HVAC system) that can bring in 7600 cfm "fresh air", then you need to exhaust about the same. <S> If you have an exhaust fan that exhausts 7600 cfm, then you need a "relief" air vent... <S> it does not need to be motorized... <S> just a relief grille (with damper). <A> Okay looks like several folks have no idea what a whole house fan is or how it works. <S> You need to check your fan rating to see how many CFM it will move. <S> Then you need to take that number and divide it by 750 to see how many square feet of vent openings you need. <S> The square feet of opening depends on the type of vent you have. <S> The vents could be ridge vents, gable vents, turbine vents or any combination thereof. <S> Check the square feet of opening for each vent you have and add it up. <S> If you are installing a 2 speed fan, make sure you are using the higher cam rating.
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If the TOTAL attic venting (ridge, soffit, gable, turbines, vent cans, etc. combined) is more than the fan requires, you're fine. If it’s not more than the fan rating divided by 750, you need more.
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Do stair stringers need to be supported along their length? I want to open a space that's closed off under my stairs. There is framing under one stringer to support existing drywall, and possibly the stairs. (The other stringer in attached to a wall) Safe to remove the framing and have the stairs supported by a stringer? <Q> I can't say for sure whether the framing that is there currently is to support the stringer, but I would expect that it's just there to support the drywall. <S> Read up on how to tell if a stud wall is loadbearing or not, if it's not loadbearing, then the current framing is just for drywall. <A> right now no. <S> the stringer off the wall will sag. <S> you would have to beef up the stringer. <S> so double or triple the stinger. <S> place the stringer that are doubled and crown the wood grains. <S> also there will need to have 3 or 4 stringers doubled. <S> i would not do it it only 2 stringers. <S> it can be done <A> It depends. <S> Yes, the stringers need to be supported along their length, but they can span a few feet too, depending on 1) <S> the width of the stairs, 2) <S> the number of stringers, and 3) size of riser board. <S> 1) <S> The wider the stair the more load will be transferred to the stringers. <S> 2) <S> More stringers can span further because they'll be carrying less load. <S> 3) <S> Most stairs have the stringers, on the edge, nailed to the walls that run parallel to the stair. <S> Then, the riser board is fastened to each stringer. <S> So, the interior stringers are actually supported by the riser board that spans from side-to-side. <S> The thicker the rider board and the shorter distance <S> the riser board spans, then the more load the stringer can carry and the longer it can span.
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Stair stringers are normally designed to be supported at the top and bottom, with no further support needed.
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Can non-metallic cable go up a wall shaft for a furnace vent? Pictured is the exhaust for a gas furnace, using a 3x12 double-wall insulated stovepipe. It is running up a non-load-bearing 2x4 wall sheathed in drywall. Which is apparently legal as far as thermal risk to the walls. The hole is 14.5" wide, and that leaves spaces at the ends and corners of the oval pipe. Someone chose this route to run some Romex, pictured. Is it legal under NEC to be that close to the exhaust? I need to run several more circuits there, and I would be inclined to fit an EMT conduit up that same route, either alongside of or replacing the Romex. Is that legal that close to the exhaust? <Q> If it is a plenum, romex is not plenum rated and may not pass an inspection if noticed (would need pipe) <S> If just a hollow space romex would be ok as long as not two hot. <S> EMT really would not help as far as temp is concerned and would limit the number of wires in the EMT or need to be derate based on the total current carying conductors. <A> There is nothing in the code that prevents you from running close to hot objects. <S> The NEC requires you to derate because of temperatures over 86° <S> F. <S> Check Table 310.15(B)(2)(a) for temperature deration factors. <S> Check the temperature of the area while the furnace is operating and derate accordingly. <S> NM cable is 90°C wire but can only be used at its 60°C rating regardless of temperature. <A> I see one romex cable already. <S> Heat and electricity is never good but if you could maintain a 3" - 4" separation from the exhaust pipe you should be fine. <S> I am assuming it is a double walled exhaust. <S> Or if you could you might install a fireproof partition if you can't maintain separation.
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The first test would be to verify the area is not hotter than the wiring can handle. Romex is rated for 90 deg C or 194F. The next check would be is the area being used as a plenum for the fresh air supply (some older homes used this airspace for environmental make up air ). You just have to derate for it.
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applying varnish to wood in the sun I have some wood that I want to apply varnish to. My garage is exceptionally dusty and my house is pretty bad too. My question is, is it okay to apply varnish outside in the sunshine? Will it still cure properly because the sun is now quickly drying it off. Note: I'm actually using spar urethane. It's for a sign. <Q> Urethane doesn't "cure". <S> It dries as the solvent (which may or may not be water) evaporates. <S> It isn't like masonry where time and moisture are critical. <S> Very quick dry times mean less time to get good coverage and work out runs. <S> Never apply heavier than a minimal thorough coat. <S> Apply liberally, then spread well, leaving just barely a glossy appearance. <S> Multiple thin coats are much better than heavy coats, which will sag and run. <A> All varnishes set in two phases. <S> First the solvent evaporates as it dries, then the as the resin molecules come into contact they cross link and cure. <S> The only concerns with the actual curing time, which can be up to month, are that you follow the minimum time between coats on the label (generally about a day) and preferable wait the month before eating off the finish (which is hardly ever an issue). <S> As far as the sun goes you only need to worry about the dry time, i.e. how long do I have before enough solvent evaporates that my varnish is the consistency of peanut butter? <S> The answer is a combination of the product in question and experience. <S> Traditional varnishes are very thick to begin with, and the instructions call for heavy thinning of the first coats and progressively less thinning of additional coats. <S> They also require sanding every coat so that the layers will bond together. <S> The need to measure and mix chemicals and laborious application does create a marketing opportunity for simpler to apply products. <S> If your varnish doesn't have a thinner schedule in the instructions (Minwax Helsman or similar) <S> then it's thinned at the factory to an average value and contains additional chemicals to allow it to "burn in" to undercoats without sanding. <S> There are tradeoffs which aren't relevant to the question at hand. <S> What is relevant is that you'll find lots of different directions depending on the product. <S> Your best bet is to work with small amounts in a separate container. <S> That prevents you from contaminating the varnish with dirt and allows you to keep it tightly covered out of the sun preventing the solvent from evaporating. <S> The amount you can keep in your working container depends on the conditions and how quick you are applying it. <S> If it's graduating from paint to frosting you're using too much. <S> If the label indicates "Clean up: Mineral Spirits" you can also thin the varnish with them if it begins to dry out on you. <S> You can also thin it slightly from the get <S> go if you know evaporation is going to be an issue. <A> Are you using it in a spray <S> can? <S> if so good luck, i have never done this. <S> if your applying it with a paint brush put it on thick it wont dry as fast. <S> its drying so fast i am guessing your are using a spray can. <S> in any matter apply it to the wood thick. <S> let it dry and sand it down to get a good Finnish. <S> i have done sealers on wood in the direct sun before never had a problem. <S> if it really bothers you. <S> might try doing it in the early morning or at night with a light. <S> put a coat on sand it down and repeat for a couple of coats. <S> good luck
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There's no problem applying urethane in the sun other than the challenges it poses to the actual application.
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vent fan blowing into attic. Good or bad? I have a two story apartment with only one room upstairs and an access to a terrasse (it's kind of a closed mezzanine). I noticed that even when every window in the apartment is open, the room upstairs still feels stuffy. I believe it might be because there is only one window upstairs and it's not even in that room so the air upstairs just doesn't circulate well. Hence my idea to install a vent/extractor (bathroom style, maybe more silent) blowing air from that room into the attic in order to get some air flowing upstairs. I know it's bad to blow humid air from a bathroom into an attic but this is just a regular room so I wonder if it would be okay (attic is well ventilated, we even asked the contractor to add more vents up there last time they did the roofing).I would probably only use it in the summer since the point is to ventilate better instead of using the AC. We get cold winters here (Montreal) so I imagine that blowing air in the winter would create condensation which would be bad. Here is what the apartment looks like. The orange square is a patio door, green rectangles are roof vents and the red arrow is where I want to put my fan. what do you guys think? Stupid idea? Anybody has a better idea? <Q> Bathroom fans move a trivial amount of air. <S> It's enough to exhaust some of the highly humid (or "aromatic") air from a tiny room like a bathroom, and it's low enough for the air to be replaced through general air leakage (and you typically don't run the fan for long). <S> If all you're trying to do is turn over the room air a little <S> so it doesn't seem stuffy, you will probably want to size it equivalent to what a bathroom fan does in a bathroom. <S> The general guideline for that sizing is to replace the room air at a rate of 8 times per hour. <S> For an 8 ft. ceiling, that's 1 CFM per square foot of room. <S> That's length <S> x width <S> x height / 8 = minimum fan CFM rating. <S> There are a couple of considerations for condensation. <S> It isn't a summer issue, but if you put this in, you should design around the possibility that it could be used in the winter. <S> In the winter, the normal inside air is likely to be a lot more humid than the outside air in Montreal, so excess humidity may condense. <S> Hopefully, any condensation will be in the form of a cloud, like the moisture from your breath outside, and the air current will dissipate it and/or exhaust it through the roof vents before it collects. <S> I assume you aren't in a position to install a dedicated roof vent. <S> I would still duct it to the general vicinity of the close-by roof vent, and just secure the end of the duct so that it exhausts near the vent. <S> The other consideration is something I ran into with my own house in Virginia, and our winter temperatures aren't anywhere as low as Montreal's. <S> In an unusually cold period, humidity from a bathroom fan condensed at the roof vent (which is metal). <S> It collected as water, flowed back down the duct, and dripped out of the bathroom fan (a form of Chinese water torture for anyone sitting on the throne). <S> If you use an insulated duct, you aren't likely to run into that. <A> Your idea should work. <S> I cut a hole in my garage ceiling, installed a 20"X 30" air return grill and filter, built a 48" tall box above the hole and installed a fan blowing positive presure into the attic. <S> My idea was to save money on my power bill during hot Arizona summers. <S> I have not seen savings for the Air Conditioner, but the fan draws air through a window in the garage and keeps it from becoming hotter than outside temperatures. <S> I know the fan is helping because it is running a lot and the cost of it has been offset by the reduced AC load. <S> The AC unit is not running as much, and the blower unit in the attic is not as hot, both of which I think are long term beneifts. <S> The biggest benefit however is the fresh air and cooling of the garage. <S> I have discovered other benefits not related to this question, making me wonder why this is not standard practice. <A> I'm not sure an electric exhaust fan installed in that room will do what you want it to do. <S> It's sort of like blowing into a straw with your finger over the other end. <S> In order to have fresh air blow into the room, you need a way for stale air to blow out of the room. <S> In order for the exhaust fan to work, you'd need to open a window too. <S> All houses have positive and negative sides to the building, depending on which way the wind is blowing. <S> When the prevailing wind changes and blows the opposite direction, it won't work so well because the relief grille will close and try to keep the air out. <S> Maybe a window is better and will provide a means of egress if it's being used as a bedroom.
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Likewise, when you install an exhaust fan in the room, you need "make-up" air in order for it to bring in fresh air. Adding a relief grille (with backdraft damper) will work when the wind is blowing the right way. Currently, the problem is that when you open the windows the air has no way to blow into and through the room.
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Can you put a whole house fan in an attic if you live in it? We live in the top two floors of an old brownstone in NYC. It gets CRAZY hot on our top floor, which is really the attic of the house, but where we have our three bedrooms and one bath. It's also poorly insulated. The front two rooms have dormer windows and the back bedroom and bathroom have only skylights. There is also one window on one side of the house (the wall on the other side is against neighboring building's wall). We are very low on cash or I would install a mini-split system. Researching whole house fans, they seem like a great option for us, but I can't figure out how we could do this if we live in our attic. Also our stairwells from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th floors are pretty open. The ground floor and 2nd floor of the building have separate studio apartments; we have our door on the 2nd floor landing, so the landing is also part of our living space. I hope someone has an idea, I can't find anything about this on the web! <Q> I love whole house fans , have now installed them in 4 houses and 2 garages. <S> As noted they can only reduce temperature to the outside temperature. <S> But that works well with a night temperature below 70F and a day temp above 80F , running an hour or so in the morning. <S> Ideally you need to install it in a gable for your situation. <S> You may want an insulating foam panel to put over the louvers when the fan is not on as louvers leak air. <S> I recommend a belt drive as the direct drive turn the fan faster making significantly more noise. <S> As noted , windows need to be opened to let air in,; window adjustment also lets you focus the cooling. <A> If the sky lights can be opened, then you could add window fans blowing into the rooms and allow that air to escape thru the sky lights. <S> Where I live you can buy window fans that fit in windows just like screens,and the fans can be run blowing in or out. <S> If the sky lights can not be opened your solutions are limited to a couple window A/C units and a couple floor fans to blow conditioned air into the rooms with no windows. <A> Or, put fans in the 3rd floor windows blowing in and open the 4th floor windows/skylights for exhaust. <S> If you own, and can safely access the roof, a short-term low-cost partial solution would be to whitewash the roof and reduce solar heat gain. <S> Longer-term solutions would be to fix the insulation, possibly in a re-roof that adds significant insulation (4" or so of foam boards) to the top of the roof deck and finishes with a white or silver surface. <S> Not fixing the insulation will simply make the air conditioning you can't afford even more unaffordable to run, if you ever get to affording it.
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You would be looking to place a fan (which might not be the typical large "whole house" fan, since you'll be limited by the window/skylight size) in one (or more - possibly all) of the 4th floor skylights or windows, blowing out, and open the 3rd floor windows for intake air.
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How do I grip stainless steel pipes for threading? I am about to install a new central heating system powered by a wood pellet boiler. To obtain maximum corrosion resistance, I have chosen PEX pipes for the low temperature underfloor heating circuits and stainless steel pipes (AISI 304) for the remaining parts of the system. The issue is that my vise cannot get a good grip on the stainless steel pipes because the surface is significantly smoother than ordinary galvanized steel pipe. Therefore I ask for better solutions to secure stainless steel pipes while doing pipe threading. <Q> You've chosen a real challenge, actually fitting threaded pipe. <S> Hardly anyone does that anymore. <S> Stainless isn't harder than other steels. <S> You just need to use a pipe wrench or pipe vise. <S> This will gouge the pipe, but that is normal in pipefitting. <S> If you want no-gouge, you can try rubber gripper pads as are often used on kitchens. <S> If you're dealing in thinwall tubing, different story. <A> Stainless steel,like 304, actually starts out softer than carbon steel : <S> But, it cold works much faster. <S> So if a cutting tool slips against the SS it hardens very quickly and may then be nearly impossible to cut ( for an amateur). <S> Then much more torque is required, twisting the pipe out of the vice. <S> Also . <S> I would look on the net to find good cutting oil ( not the same as lube oil).I would suggest copper tubing or pipe , it is much easier to work with and should handle nearly any water system. <S> If you are working with stainless steel or copper in smaller sizes like 1/2 inch , I would suggest compression fittings instead of pipe threads. <A> I have to ask, why are you using stainless steel pipe? <S> Unless the pipe is actually being used in a corrosive environment, stainless steel pipe is a waste of money. <S> If the piping is to connect to the heating coil or heating apparatus in the boiler, then steel pipe, either schedule 40 or schedule 80 or copper tubing will suffice. <S> Also what size pipe are we talking about? <S> A good explanation of your project would be helpful. <S> Standard pipe dies are not for threading stainless steel. <S> That uses special dies. <A> You could try taping the pipe where you want to grip it. <S> Duct tape wrapped a few times might suffice.
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With a vise grip or channel locks it might give you the purchase you need to turn the pipe for threading. If your vice is big enough , the other problem may be your cutter has slipped, hardening the SS.
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Outlets are dead, but electricity is coming into the box I have three outlets in the bedroom that are not working. No breakers are tripped(all have been shut off and turned back on, just to see if something has been tripped someplace). No GFCI are involved. I took the cover off an outlet and used a tester. I have electricity coming to the outlet off the hot (black) wire, but the ground I had to use to get the tester to light was the ground wire off the green screw. I looked at each dead outlet and they all test the same way. The white wire or screw on the side of the receptacle would do nothing to light my tester. These are the only outlets not working in the house. <Q> Try to trace the wiring back along its path <S> and I'm certain you'll find a bad/broken/loose connection on a white wire somewhere. <A> As the other answers note, you have a broken or disconnected neutral wire somewhere upstream. <S> Using a tester was a good idea; to make testing plugs safer and much faster, you can get one of these for ten bucks from any hardware store: <S> That way you'll know very quickly that you have an open neutral somewhere. <A> I had a wire come loose in the breaker box recently. <S> Thought the breaker went bad until I started to replace it and the wire popped out of the connector.
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What you describe says that the neutral (white wire) is broken somewhere upstream from these outlets. It's also not a bad idea to do a quick check of all the plugs in the house to make sure none have swapped hot with neutral, have open grounds, and so on.
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Skinny strip at end of room Laying vinyl plank flooring, and have ended up with the skinny strip problem at the end of the room. Don't want to tear the whole thing up and start again (economically impractical, apart from anything). Before anyone gets on me, I WAS aware of this possible problem and I did measure before I began, but I am filling an awkward open plan area involving three spaces, and it was continuity that got me in the end. There was no straightforward way not to end up with a skinny strip somewhere. Anyway, I would like to know my options at this point. A super wide skirting shoe is surely going to look weird. Will such a thin strip lie properly if it is secured under quarter round? Will it also need to be glued down? (the rest of the floor is floating). Are there other options? Many thanks. <Q> Assuming that this is a locking tongue-and-groove product... <S> Rip the strip and install it as normal. <S> There's no reason at all not to, and it happens on almost every flooring install in one place or another. <S> Your shoe will help secure it <S> and it won't look like some sort of hack. <A> Of course, don't tear up the whole thing. <S> But you should consider tearing up just the last full board, and reducing the width of the last two courses: <S> The last board will have to be glued or screwed down, but it will be wide enough so that it won't warp or capsize the way a skinny strip would. <A> How narrow will the strip be? <S> I've read that 2" should be the minimum, although some places say 3". <S> I've just recently run into the same problem <S> and I'm doing a strip that is 2.5". <S> Is that baseboard on the wall? <S> Can you take up the baseboard so that you can install a bit wider piece <S> then install the baseboard and quarter round over the strip? <S> and at least you might gain an extra 1/2"?
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Or alternatively undercut the baseboard so that you could slip the piece under it like you would under doorjambs, etc.
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Why does my clothes dryer make a rattling sound after 5 minutes? We have a new dryer just one year old. It's an Amana. Just the other day it suddenly started making loud rattling noise after running 5 min. It's so new I'm surprised. What could this be. Everything else working fine. Just really noisy. Any suggestions would help. <Q> A dryer is a very simple machine. <S> There is a belt that turns the drum and there are bearings on the drum supports. <S> The motor, the belt, or the drum bearings can have a problem - the drum bearings is what I suspect. <S> Sometimes the simple things are overlooked so with <S> that said: Another possibility is that you have something on the side of the dryer (like a dryer shoe rack) that starts to rattle against the machine after it is spinning up a bit, also check your venting pipes. <A> If it is new and one year old, you should talk to the place where you bought it. <S> They will either have you bring it in or tell you what to do about it. <S> What could this be? <S> First thought is a belt that was installed slightly too loose and gets even looser as it heats up. <S> Maybe you are hearing it slipping. <S> Either way, talk to the source. <S> Here's a suggestion. <S> Use this phrase: " <S> When I bought it here, I certainly expected it to last longer than one year" <A> If it’s still “under warranty “, I’d call the manufacturer before you start “messing” with it. <S> You could void the warranty. <S> (And no matter what...unplug it...) <A> My dryer started doing a similar thing. <S> The entire drum unit was cracked, probably from my kids climbing into it once. <S> The drums are just not meant to hold a lot of weight in a single spot. <S> You can run your fingers on the inside close to the rear and then again in the front, and see if you feel any cracks.
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Or, perhaps, "rattling" could mean you have lost a ball in one of the bearings.
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Practicality of adding 3-phase power to residence? How practical is it to add 3-phase power to a residence (assuming that the street has 3-phase on the poles)? In my case I would be using it only for occasional use, such as for some heavy duty machine tools in a basement, and maybe a motor for a large gate or door. Will it be prohibitively expensive, or on the same order as the costs for normal 240V 2-phase power? Will power companies typically unite the bills, or can I expect to have to pay two different bills, one for the 240V and one for the 3-phase? <Q> The article I read suggests that such a resource will carry an installation expense in areas not rated for commercial service and may also carry a minimum charge on the utility bill. <S> If your objective is occasional use of heavy equipment such as a machine tool, it may be more practical to use a device called a rotary converter. <S> You would want to ensure your selected device has the necessary capacity for your expected load maximum, with a bit of reserve tossed in for good measure. <S> If only a single machine is going to be using 3-phase power, another device known as a VFD would be of value. <S> A VFD will provide variable speed to an otherwise single speed motor as well as other features one can determine by searching for that term. <S> There are plans online to build your own rotary converter. <S> A friend without internet access, many years ago, connected two motors together via belts, powering one with line current and used the gizmo to run a monster Czech lathe in his shed. <S> He had to "kick-start" it periodically by kicking one of the pulleys, but it worked. <S> I'm sure a commercially produced version would not require such manual intervention. <S> The above assessment was performed based on a US installation. <S> Other countries may have different circumstances. <A> It's always an interesting question. <S> I have seen it at some large farms etc. <S> The main problem is distribution from your utility provider. <S> Residentially zoned areas are not normally run in a true 3 phase system. <S> So in order to provide a three phase they will do a split phase using two transformers and provide you with a delta, or the three phase with 120V to ground on two phases and 240V to ground on the other. <S> Now this is not the old split phase panels they used to have in the 30's and 40's. <S> That's actually a simulated three phase. <S> You can Google motor generator <S> and it will provide you with all the information you need. <S> You could also purchase a three phase generator. <S> Expect to see a big spike in your electrical use. <S> Good Luck <A> You are absolutely going to get a different billing. <S> You will have to pay a considerable amount of money to get the service set up in the first place. <S> Since all three-phase installations are for businesses, they are all professionally installed and they will expect yours to be too. <S> If you are lucky the three-phase up pn the pole will be 480. <S> (Many 240V machines can be jumpered to run on 480.) <S> If not you will also have to pay some upfront costs for them to fit transformers. <S> If you're worried about the monthly cost of a second metering, I hope I am painting the picture that this is going to be costly. <S> Generally I hear this after someone has acquired themselves a fine deal on a machine tool on Craigslist. <S> This is why it was a deal . <S> As such, money is usually a serious factor, and spending even a mere $1000 provisioning service is out of the question for them. <S> If that made you go "well maybe", you may want to look at a phase converter capable of converting 240V single-phase to 3-phase. <S> You don't want to mess with 208 3-phase. <S> That is a compromise voltage used when a single service must provide all loads in a facility, and most of the loads are 120V, i.e. Residential or light commercial. <S> It adds a neutral, giving a "wye" configuration, with 208V between any two legs. <S> 208 is a compromise voltage and does not work nearly as well as 240V. <S> it may be possible to boost it to 240. <S> If you must drive the entire building off one service, another, better, way to do at same thing is provision 240V "wild leg" delta. <S> This is what you get when you add a phase converter to household power. <A> Where I live, residential customers pay for amount of electricity used only, but commercial and industrial customers pay a "demand charge" too. <S> Therefore, it makes sense to make a one-time investment of three phase power, especially if using larger equipment, etc.
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If you have just a few three phase peices of equipment you can use VFD's as discussed above or you can use a motor generator either static (solid state) or rotary (mechanical). A quick search indicates that acquiring 3 phase power from a local utility may be prohibitively expensive.
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How to remove strange looking strike plate I'm replacing my locks in my house and I can't get this strike plate removed. It had two pieces. I was able to remove the latch assist (curved piece to help slide in). Now I'm just stuck tugging at this thing. It curves into the trim on the door frame. What kind of strike plate is this, and how can I remove it? <Q> (This isn't its original shape, is it? <S> I'm guessing that it was attached flat to the frame, and you bent it while trying to get it out?) <S> Maybe it's meant to reinforce the strike plate, to make it harder to kick the door in. <S> I never saw anything like this - but if you can't yank it out, even with pliers, then obviously it's attached to something behind the door trim. <S> I see these options: <S> Pry off the door <S> trim piece (on the left in the photo) and see what the hell is under there. <S> Cut off the exposed part of the metal thingy with a Dremel. <S> Leave it in place, attach the new strike plate on top of it. <S> (If there's enough space between the frame and the door.) <A> I know this is old <S> but somebody might still pose this question in the future what that is called an adjustable strike they come with pre-hung doors the Carpenters are supposed to take them off before they install <S> but none of them ever do so what I always do I'm a locksmith just bend it back and forth back and forth <S> and I'll snap it a spot <S> will you easily be able to put the new strike plate in its place <S> it'll still be a piece of metal sticking out <S> but it won't catch anything cuz it'll be covered by the lip of the strike <A> Mike's answer is correct. <S> I had the same problem and found the plate was screwed in from the back of the jam. <S> I guess it must have been put in place prior to the jam being fixed into the stud frame. <S> (There was just enough room for this between the jam and the stud.) <S> This leaves holes to be filled, but in my case the jam was painted, so just needs to be filled with wood putty and repainted. <S> In case it is helpful to others, the centres of the screws holding my plate were 9/32" up/down from the bottom/top of the plate and 2.875" back.
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In my case, I drilled holes from the inside of the jam and drove the screws out with a steel rod and hammer.
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Drywall surrounding vent no longer supports screws; Screws that normally fix the vent in place can't do their job anymore. The drywall has crumbled to the point that the tapped hole for the screw lacks a boundary with the duct. (Picture attached.) Perhaps: The cutout for the original vent larger than necessary, forcing the screws to be closer to the duct than is optimal? The original installation should have used some sort of plug so that the threads of the screw didn't compromise the integrity of the drywall so easily? How would you: (a) go about fixing this? (b) prevent this from happening in future installations? The issue, in an image: <Q> My default fix would be just to put in some type of anchor. <S> Given the damage and the fact this is on a ceiling, I'd be inclined to use a screw-in type anchor, because they hold on to a larger area and would deal better with some damage. <S> Normally the method is to use a backing board, which is basically just a small piece of wood -- perhaps 3/4" x <S> 2" x 4" -- to screw into on each side. <S> Unless the vent can be moved easily, this will be difficult. <S> They'd anchor into the vent itself. <A> I got a tip elsewhere about using JB Weld, as I had the same problem. <S> Worked like a charm! <S> I got the one made for wood. <S> It was a putty stick. <S> You knead it together then stuff it into the screw hole. <S> It hardens in 1 hour and gives you a fresh surface to drill a new hole. <S> Good luck! <A> If this is a heating duct, place a piece of sheet metal on the other side of the drywall and use a self-drilling screw to reattach the cover. <S> If this is just a cover over a ventilation hole to the next floor (somewhat common in older buildings), you can safely use a piece of wood instead. <A> I came up with a spring system to hold the vents in place. <S> Here's a link to the video I created for it. <S> It's not dependant on the drywall holding anchors, or any screws of any type. <S> https://youtu.be/bHWa9MCxrDQ
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In this case I'd actually construct some "wings" using some sheet metal to wrap around and over top of the drywall, which the vent would then screw into. If that couldn't work, the next thing I would look at would be getting a new surface to screw into. I had the same problem in my basement, as well as for a few clients (I'm a handyman).
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Adding 10KW capacity to existing house I apologize in advanced for my poor technical lingo. I have a spare house which is strictly using electricity to power some servers. I'm slowly building out a cluster, but before I move it to a warehouse I want to have everything up and running and profitable. Right now I use about 2 KW, I have them on various circuits through out the house so it doesn't trip the breaker. I live in the USA, I think I saw 100 Amp, 50 Amp, and 20 Amp breakers, so theoretically I could run at least 12 KW. If I had an electrician modify the circuit breaker so all the servers ran in the garage, which is 20 feet away from the breaker. I'm looking at cost efficiency, I don't want anything permanent done, no rewiring the house or anything, just a temporary setup while I build up capacity. The wiring could be laid on the floor instead of the walls & attic. All it needs is standard wall outlets to plug in the servers. I'm concerned about two things, obviously safety, and cost. I kinda want to do it myself, I'm interested in learning/doing these things, and I have a background in Mech and Software engineering. Preferably I'd watch and learn from an electrician, how much would you estimated it cost for it to be done? Anything I should know about my plan? I live in a very low cost standard of living state so I imagine it won't be too much. Thanks! Additional information: Each server uses about 1200W continuously. They're running as a generic desktop configurations. they're not standard generic servers for a server farm, so they use a standard 120V supply. I have taken into consideration HVAC, and plan to use a large fan to push the hot air out the garage door, as a temporary setup. So accounting for the 20% max load rule, I figure I can run 8 rigs. Also, the electric box on the outside of the house said 100 AMP, the circuit breaker doesn't have any labels, it's a 40 year old house. Nothing else will be running, Dryer, AC, Electric Stove, etc. Also wouldn't the 20 AMP breakers in the garage/kitchen run on the 240V circuit? Wouldn't it be costly to convert it to 120V? Spacing it in my house to run off each circuit probably is the best cost efficient idea, but I'm not too keen on running 8 Ethernet cables throughout the house as a potential hazard, and moving a monitor through the house for any maintenance is a pain. If an electrician did come out and rework a temporary garage setup so I can run 10 KW from the garage, how much is a rough guesstimate for the cost? I'm trying to factor it into my plan before I make any hard decisions. Thanks guys, you've been very helpful! <Q> Your house already has all those circuits . <S> Look at your breaker panel at all the single- space (1 pole) breakers . <S> Almost all of them are 15 or 20 amps. <S> A 20A breaker can drive 1920 watts on a continuous load. <S> A 15A breaker can carry 1440W on a continuous load. <S> Worst case, at 1200W per circuit, you'll need eight 120V circuits, and your house will have that. <S> You are saying 1200W <S> but that is just a common nameplate rating on a PC power supply. <S> You can buy a "Kill-a-Watt" power meter and measure the actual load when the server is at max performance. <S> Read the VA number and use that in place of watts. <S> For instance if the server reports 900 VA actual , you can put two on a 20A circuit. <S> Your kitchen has two of the 20A jobs. <S> Your garage probably has another 20A. <S> They're all over the house. <S> If you don't know what breakers serve what receptacles, get some night lights at the dollar store and plug em in all over the place. <S> Then turn on one breaker at a time and walk around and see what lights up. <S> You can turn on several breakers at a time or even half the panel, and then you can make a logic game of it. <S> ** Things which DO light up are on that circuit. <S> Things which DO NOT light up are on a different circuit. <S> Feel free to cover your receptacles with Post-its. <S> Crowding all that equipment into the garage, and paying a guy to run a bunch of cable, is silly. <S> Not least, the garage location will require GFCI breakers since this will be new work. <S> Also by putting it in the house proper, your A/C units will come to bear. <S> ** <S> if you have <32 breakers, you should be able to match up every outlet in five loops through the house. <S> Print out a bunch of sheets of paper with the numbers 1-32 on them. <S> First you set odd breakers on, and loop through the house. <S> Strike out (exclude) <S> even numbers if it's on, or odd numbers if it's off. <S> Next turn on every other pair: 1-2, 5-6, 9-10 etc. <S> and cross out the circuits the outlet can't be. <S> Then every other group of four: 1-4, 9-12, etc. <S> Two more rounds, and each sheet of paper will have only one number remaining. <A> Depends a great deal what we're talking in terms of servers. <S> Based on this Quora answer <S> a full 48U rack can draw 5-30kW, depending on how much computing power you're using at the time. <S> He also notes that most datacenters use 208v, not 110. <S> Some rules of thumb off the top of my head: <S> A single-phase 208V*/30A circuit has a maximum server load draw of about 4.9kW. <S> A single-phase 208/50A circuit has a maximum server load draw of about 8.3kW. <S> Then you need to consider cooling. <S> I would recommend a mini-split AC, but a window or upright unit might work. <S> Then you're going to have network cabling, switches, routers, etc. <S> I'm not sure what you're proposing is practical (and might be a classic XY Problem ). <S> You might be better off getting co-location now and avoiding the headache of trying to rewire for a homemade datacenter. <A> Standard circuit breakers are not rated to carry 100% of their labeled ampacity continuously. <S> Continuous loads are loads that run for three hours or more at a time. <S> Servers would be a continuous load. <S> Breakers with continuous loads should only be loaded to 80% of their rating. <S> Therefore, a standard 20 amp 120 volt circuit can handle 16 amps or 1920 watts. <S> About six, three hundred watt power supplies per circuit. <S> Lower powered servers give you more per circuit. <S> However, six of these fully loaded would be 96 amps and might trip a 100 amp breaker after an hour or more. <S> This would give you 36 servers or so on a 100 amp sub-panel. <S> Temporary wiring can be run with hard usage cord but should be kept away from any exposure to physical damage or creating a tripping hazard. <S> You might also have a heat problem from all those servers. <S> You may need air conditioning to maintain the temperature.
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This all depends on the draw of your server power supplies.
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Strange mud-like formation on ceiling I live on 4th floor of a seven-storey building. It's been a month since I noticed these strange things growing on my ceiling. It looks like mud when observed closely. At first I cleared it with brush which can be seen in the picture as light stains. But it grew again. The darker one is how it looks like now. The other side of the wall from which this thing grows is the bathroom. Above the bathroom there is a small compartment for storing things. The door of the compartment can be seen in the picture. I've never seen anything like this. What is this thing? And how can I get rid of it? As mentioned above clearing with a brush doesn't help. <Q> I would contact either the building owner or a local pest exterminator. <S> I would recommend doing this quickly before there is structural damage to the building. <A> Not that it's for sure termites. <S> But this is how termites get place to place in well lit areas. <S> You'll commonly find these types of tunnels from the ground, up the cement portion of a foundation, and into the structure. <S> Since not all insects like light, this is how they do it. <A> Those are mud tubes created by ground termites. <S> That is why the tubes keep coming back after you sweep them away with your broom. <S> There is a white looking termiticide chemical (that the termites think is food) <S> you can squirt into the termite holes in your ceiling and they will take it back to their nest in the ground and it will kill them.
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It may not be termites but it looks likes some kind of insect infestation. For sure call an exterminator for a full evaluation. What ever the tunnels are made of is likely building material. They search for food during the day and go back into the ground at night, then start the process all over again the next day.
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HVAC drip line sweats during heavy AC use in summer Our HVAC unit is in the attic. It has a PVC pipe that goes down the wall to the bathroom sink, draining into the P-trap under the bathroom sink. Since last year, during the summer when the AC is used heavily, the drain hose under the sink from the HVAC unit is icy cold and causes the black rubbery hose to sweat. This causes a smell of mold and requires a bucket to placed under the hose to prevent further cabinet damage: I have had plumbers and HVAC pros come out and they have replaced all the plumbing under the sink, and inspected the HVAC, but the problem persists. In general, our house is often humid. There is mold around the exhaust vents. Often times it is more humid in the house than out of the house (Dallas, TX area). If it gets over 90 degrees outside, the A/C never turns off and cannot cool the house below 75 or 76 degrees or so. It is during this time the cold water pours down the pipe and fills the P-trap with icy cold water. Lastly, I had a general contractor suggest that my evaporator coils may be dirty. Since I've lived in the house (~15 years) I have never had them cleaned. Also, I have had problems with the filters being sucked in because the plenum was so tight, it bent the sides if the filters (even the 3" ones) and after that, they loose all structural integrity. You don't know until you go to change the filter. What could be causing this sweating and humidity in our HVAC system? <Q> The problem could be the high humidity in the house. <S> Here, north of Pittsburgh, <S> Pa. I run a dehumidifier any time I am using the A/C unit to help reduce the humidity. <S> Most A/C units are oversized not allowing the unit to run long enough to reduce the humidity. <S> I set my dehumidifier at 40% and allow it to run automatically. <S> I bought a GE unit rated at 70 pints per day from Sam's club and it keeps the humidity in check. <S> causes it to swet. <S> I would probably allow the condensate drain to run outside the house if that is legal in your area. <A> Drip line catches moisture from the condenser and routes it away from the HVAC. <S> When I've seen HVAC installed in the attic the drip line has always been routed outside the house, not to an interior drain line. <S> Suggestion 1: <S> Reroute the drip line to the outside of the house. <S> Suggestion 2: Put a P-Trap in the attic between the hvac and the insulated space in order to create an air barrier from the condenser to the sink so that cold air from the hvac can't push down the pipe and exit out your sink's drain into the bathroom. <A> Based on your description I am guessing you do not have enough air flow and your filter is too small. <S> If your coil was clogged the filter would not be pulled in since there would be limited air movement. <S> If the filter is too restrictive it could be pulled in. <S> Excessively cold condensate is a sign of insufficient air flow as is lack of cooling. <S> I am just guessing since I don’t have enough info. <S> If it does you probably need a larger or less restrictive filter. <S> If the pipe is sweating it should be insulated but I am guessing based on what you said the sweating is a symptom of low air flow. <A> Whatever is dripping needs to be insulated. <S> It's either that <S> or you can incorporate your attic onto your HVAC system - <S> yeah, I didn't think so <S> :) <S> That pic was probably there when I posted this, but for some reason I pictured it dripping in the attic. <S> As to the system not being able to keep up, you should contract an energy auditor ; someone who can tell you why your system isn't working right. <S> Not a general contractor; not an HVAC guy: an energy auditor . <S> Assuming they're competent, those are people who can tell you what the appropriately sized system for your given house is, or any other reason why your system doesn't work well (like too many windows, low R-value house, overall heat gain/loss, improper duct work, ect.). <S> And probably most importantly <S> : save you money in the long run. <S> Which might seem like an outrageous up-front cost (energy audits can be upwards of $500, and new systems thousands) but IMO economics and efficiency are secondary to a system being able to provide comfort.
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One more thing, the drip line should have it's own trap close to the unit to keep cold air from blowing down the pipe causing the pipe to become cold which in turn coupled with a high humidity in the house If you live in a high humidity area the A/C unit will not remove enough of the humidity in your house to allow you to feel comfortable. You could try and remove the filter for a while and see if the condensate warms up a bit. Your HVAC unit is in unconditioned space . It's not where it's supposed to be.
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Outlet installation in metal electrical box I am replacing some receptacles that are contained within metal electrical boxes in my shop. Is it proper technique to wrap the outlet with electrical tape to prevent shorts with the grounded box (See New receptacle tripped/sparked for example)? If wrapping the outlet is correct, does it need to be de-rated due to the potential higher temperature caused by the insulation effect of the tape? <Q> In my opinion, no, this is not "proper". <S> If your receptacle moves enough when plugging thing in to short out to the box, then you have other problems. <S> A mistake I have seen made, is where the unused screw terminals are not tightened down. <S> Which means it only takes a slight bit of movement, to get the screw to make contact with the wall of the box. <S> Another mistake is to carelessly tuck the grounding conductors into the box, so that the bare ground can come into contact with the ungrounded (hot) terminals. <S> If you do decide to wrap the receptacle in tape, you should not have to worry about higher temperatures. <A> There's no doubt it's a matter of "belt and suspenders" (redundant protection). <S> The main reason to do it is for the installer . <S> You are in that box later, pulling that yoke out, and either a) whoopsydaisy, it turns out that circuit was not de-energized after all; or b) you are troubleshooting a problem which "lights up" things which should be off. <S> Once I definitely did turn off the right breaker (the breaker was unclipped from the bus ), and bumped hot against ground, got a tiny arc flash. <S> WTH? <S> it was a tiny flash, so I connected it firmly, and voila , a fluorescent light on the circuit lit up. <S> These things do happen . <S> Also, I have had cases where due to the shape of the box, you had close contact. <S> That is particularly when dealing with the relatively shallow steel boxes and also Romex, where you have ground wires flopping about (which you do not in EMT). <S> Worst case: side entrance of Romex into 1-gang. <S> No chance of overheat there (we aren't using the backstabs, right?) <S> If it really bothers you, do a 30% derate off the 90C numbers. <S> (This derate is already required; natively, 12AWG is good for 30A.) <A> If the box is grounded, there isn't a reason for wrapping tape around the box unless the receptacle is loose, and you have movement of the receptacle. <S> This would be a poor way to correct the problem, because the tape on the box may come loose over time because of dampness in a workshop. <S> The optimal approach would be, to use oversized screws to correct this. <S> I would also use a metal box cover for the metal box. <S> Furthermore you may want to see if one of the outlets ARE GFCI protected type. <S> You may or may not have water in your shop, but usually there can be a lot of dampness present in a shop. <S> If one of the receptacles isn't GFCI then you may want to purchase a GFCI breaker for your box, and replace the breaker that powers your outlets. <S> Good luck!
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Depending on the size of the box, this can put the terminal screw quite close to the wall of the box. The receptacle should be rigidly attached, so that it does not move during normal use. You could also use a GFCI receptacle for the GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt), but it is normally limited to the number of receptacles depending on your local codes. As far as thermal derate, you are at the screw terminals, where there is a mighty slug of metal.
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Who is the right type of person to create construction drawings for a home I've already designed? As the ultimate DIY project, I want to owner-build a home. I've already "designed" the house, meaning I have a 1/2" scale floor plan, roofing ridge line, and elevations for all interior and exterior wall treatments. These are all done in CAD. I know exactly what it will look like inside and out. In order to build it though, I need building plans, maybe stamped by an architect. The person who makes the plans would need to be qualified to make structural engineering decisions and calculations, like joist spacing, wall framing diagrams, and foundation calculations which I am not qualified to do. So far, I've found four types of people, none of which will do what I want: Architects want to design the house themselves, and seem offended that I would come to them with specifics about exactly how the house should look and be laid out. "Residential Designers" seem to be draftsmen that also want to do the design elements themselves. I'm also not sure about their qualifications for engineering calculations. Design and build firms want to do the design themselves and build the house too! Most engineers only seem interested in commercial projects, and it seems like over kill to hire an engineer ($$$) to draft building drawings for a small residence. So if I already have a complete "design" for the house (layout and artistically speaking) but need that design turned into structurally sound and code compliant construction drawings with the proper legal approvals, who is the right type of person or firm to do this work? <Q> Some of the things you mention don't require anything specific. <S> Wall and foundation diagrams are boilerplate. <S> The truss company will design the roof system to fit your design. <S> Joist specs are fairly straight forward, and a salesperson at your local lumberyard may have the expertise you need. <S> As has been mentioned, if you find the right company they'll be happy to work from what you've drawn. <S> They may insist on re-drawing it, but there should be very little demand to change your design substantially. <S> Keep looking for a smaller local outfit with a good reputation. <A> Most people find Architectural and Engineering firms cost prohibitive. <S> @brhans has the right idea. <S> You might try looking around for a good construction manager and work with him to find a drafter or drafting company. <S> Be very careful in selecting anyone to help you. <S> This can be a real minefield, so approach with caution. <A> That sounds like an expensive plan. <S> I did that but had to redraw everything at the last minute. <S> The architect and contractor should have some good suggestions. <S> However , I found they had an obsession with making bath and closet doors 2 feet wide - I wanted 3 ft. <S> whenever possible. <S> I reframed a couple in the evening.
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I suggest going to one or more architects and looking through their plans; for a price they will make changes( elevation changes are easy.) Check references, find other people who have used them, make sure you build a level of trust, and if you have any reservations make sure you resolve it before signing any contract of outlying any cash.
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Can a GFCI outlet intentionally and explicitly be used as a switch without violating code? I'm working on adding several outdoor outlets in the eaves of my roof for holiday lighting. I have a switch in my garage for these outlets right next to the garage light switch. Thing is, I keep flipping the switch for the holiday lights instead of the garage light switch when I want the garage light. I was planning on adding an inline GFCI, but now I'm thinking instead of installing the inline GFCI, I could just replace the holiday lighting switch with a no-outlet-GFCI, which would function equally well as a switch (using the test and reset buttons), but harder to unintentionally trigger, and provide the necessary short protection. The only thing I'm concerned about is if the GFCI is wouldn't hold up to (admittedly) infrequent "switching" or if this would violate code somehow. I'll string my holiday lights in early November, but not turn them on until the day after thanksgiving, similarly I'll turn them off after new years, but might not take them down for a few weeks, so the switch will only get used a few times a year. <Q> This is a great question. <S> Of course the answer is no, but the NEC does not say you can't verbatim. <S> To do that we have to look at Article 100 Definitions and what is a definition of a switch and what is the definition of a GFCI and what is the definition of a receptacle. <S> Then you also have to reference NEC Articles 404 Switches and 406 Receptacles. <S> The point is switches and receptacles are two separate types of devices and it never states otherwise. <S> You might argue that "it doesn't say I can't". <S> But you have to look at Article 404.11 Circuit Breakers as Switches. <S> It identifies that you can use a circuit breaker as a switch if it meets certain parameters. <S> We could probably get this written into the code if we submitted it to the committee. <S> Then it would get it written in within the next 6 to 9 years if they found it relevent. <S> If this answer doesn't convince you then consider this question. <S> If I have and incandescent lamp inline with some other devices <S> can I use it as a switch by screwing and unscrewing it. <A> I wouldn't use the Test button as a switch <A> Install a timer instead. <S> This will allow you to turn your holiday lights on/off automatically, and will also make it more difficult to turn on accidentally. <S> Something like this would work. <S> To answer the question you actually asked... <S> However, since the device is not designed to be operated in this way, it will likely cause it to wear out faster. <A> There's all kinds of light switch covers you can get on Amazon that prevent you from accidentally hitting the switch, while still allowing you to use it when you need it.
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The NEC doesn't say I can't. Leviton actually makes a GFCI switch that may meet your needs. You have to consider the intent of the code. It's not a code violation, since code typically deals with installation, not usage. So the "intent of the code" is that if it isn't defined in 404 that it can be used as a switch, then it can't be used as a switch.
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Why is there a live and a neutral in a wall connector? I get the ground. Since you can plug the plug in either way there is no way for the appliance to know what's in what wire, right? <Q> Hot and neutral are the supply and return lines. <S> What defines a neutral is that some effort has been made to keep it near earth potential. <S> It is not quite at earth potential <S> ** and neutral is not ground. <S> Now, some plugs and receptacles are polarized , either by virtue of differing pins (the wide blade on NEMA 1), or simply a side effect of having a third grounding pin not inline. <S> In that case, the appliance knows which pin is neutral, and can be designed internally with that in mind. <S> The classic example is a screw-in bulb fixture; the easily-touched outer shell of the socket is made neutral, and the harder-to-reach tip is "hot" and also switched. <S> If its plug is not polarized (Schuko, GU10, GU24), most likely the appliance is required to comply with a higher insulation standard, so the appliance will be nominally safe even if the prongs are reversed. <S> ** and sometimes more than a little <S> not at earth potential <A> The appliance doesn't care about the direction, because the current is AC, meaning it is alternating directions 50 to 60 times a second. <S> The neutral wire takes current back to the circuit breaker which takes current back to the power plant to complete the loop. <S> See also: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/134869/does-it-matter-which-way-you-plug-stuff-into-the-wall-socket <A> Because the windings in a split phase transformer are 180 degrees apart with the neutral in the center. <S> Most appliances use one 180 winding or the other (120V RMS) and some use both windings (240v RMS). <S> In the case of the latter with pure resistive loads like some heaters, a neutral isn't necessary because both currents on each winding (leg/pole) are balanced. <S> At the end of the day all the imbalanced currents from all the appliances like computers, fluorescents lights etc, goes on out the service neutral to the transformer where it came from.
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Some appliances use both windings and require a neutral (240/120) like a dryer or oven because of non pure resistive loads like electronics may create minor imbalances. Ground/earth is a safety line and does not normally handle current flow.
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How can I conceal interior camera wiring? I'm trying to install 4 cameras, but from other people's place it look not that good that cable can be seen along the wall. is there anyway to hide it? its going to be from left wall to all the way to end of right side of wall and go all the way to ceiling. any ideas? <Q> This generally involves drilling holes in the wall/ceiling at minimum, and may also involve some larger holes and drywall repair. <S> How difficult or easy it is depends on the specific construction details of the building and where you have access. <S> It almost always involves some amount of surface repair and repainting. <A> Ecnerwal is right with his answer, but there are also surface-mount cable tracks available at your local big box store. <S> They're not particularly pretty, but they're better than bare cables if you don't want to pull through walls. <A> Consider the Arlo Pro wireless cameras. <S> They have USB rechargeable batteries. <S> The cameras connect via your WIFI and can be momitored via your computer or handheld device.
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Like any wiring, you need to learn to put it in the walls/ceiling if you don't want to see it. They also have two-way speakers, so you can monitor from anywhere and can listen and speak to someone in the room, if necessary.
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GFCI outlet shape for 20 amp vs 15 amp circuit - what does the little line on the outlet mean? My contractor recently added a 20-Amp circuit to my kitchen while he was remodeling it. He explained that the circuit was 20-Amp, and the non-GFCI outlets he installed all have the little horizontal line on the side, which I always thought was the designator for a 20-Amp outlet and 20-Amp circuit. That is, I thought that the “little extra line” is used to plug in a 20-Amp device which has a different plug configuration from a 15-Amp. And I even found answers here and here that confirm what I always thought: if it has the line it is 20-Amp, and if it doesn’t it is 15-Amp. But I noticed my contractor installed a couple of GFCIs that don’t have the extra line on the side of the plug. I mentioned this to him, and he explained that the GFCI outlets he installed really were 20-Amp outlets, they just don’t have that extra line. I thought he was trying to save a few bucks by installing a 15-Amp outlet and assumed I wouldn’t know or notice, but he quickly reassured me by pulling off the plate cover and showing me the side of the outlet where it was stamped in the plastic “20 Amp.” So now I’m confused. What does the little line on the outlet mean? Is there a difference between a 20 Amp outlet with or without the extra line? BTW, in trying to research this question before posting, I discovered that even if he had installed 15-Amp outlets on a 20-Amp circuit, it would have still been code, as answered by these questions: 20 Amp Circuit with 15 Amp outlets Can a 20 amp GFCI outlet be daisy chained to 15 amp outlets Is using 15 amp components on a 20 amp breaker against code? I live in the USA, for purposes of wiring codes and outlet types related to this question. Update I took apart the outlet again and see both the 20 Amp the contractor pointed out originally, plus a 15 Amp on the other side. I agree with the answer that this is a 15 Amp receptacle with a 20 Amp pass through. <Q> A receptacle without that horizontal slot is only rated to supply 15 amps to a device that's plugged into it. <S> GFCIs are no exception to this. <S> That "20 Amps" stamp is likely stating the receptacle's pass-through rating , or the amount of current it can supply to sockets downstream of it. <S> There are GFCI devices with that horizontal slot available, which will supply 20 amps to attached devices, and can be found online with a quick Google for "20 amp GFCI receptacle". <A> Underwriter's Laboratories requires that all 15A (on their face) receptacles have, internally, circuit paths which are rated for 20A. That dances together with the Electrical Code, which allows 15A receptacles <S> plural to be used on 20A circuits, as is the case you will often find in kitchens and bathrooms. <S> By making GFCIs 20A internally <S> but 15A <S> on their face, it allows you to use the same GFCI on both 15A and 20A circuits. <S> If the receptacle had the T-neutral, that would mean it could not be used on 15A circuits. <A> NEC 210.24 allows you to put a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit if it has 2 or more outlets on a circuit. <S> The thinking behind it is the use of the receptacle. <S> Is it being used for devices that are rated at 12A or less, or is it being used for a specific purpose that requires a 20A circuit? <S> So it is rating and approving the demand of the device instead of the demand of the circuit. <S> Any device that requires a 20A load will have a cord connecter with the 6-20R configuration. <S> That means it won't be able to plug into any 15A device. <S> The standard 15A receptacle is a NEMA 6-15R and the 20A receptacle is a NEMA 6-20R. Hope this helps.
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You cannot plug a 20 amp device directly into any receptacle without that horizontal bar, be it a regular receptacle, or a GFCI.
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What happens if I use the counterclockwise setting on my power drill to drill a hole? I've learned that, "Almost all drilling bits have to be rotated clockwise to achieve drilling." - Source What is wrong, exactly, with using the "L" setting (counterclockwise setting) on my cordless power drill to drill a hole (using a standard drill bit)? Won't the hole still be created at the end of the day, regardless of the direction? I don't understand the "real-world" difference. Are you able to visually tell the difference between the two holes (the hole drilled on the clockwise setting vs. the hole drilled on the counterclockwise setting)? <Q> Conventional drill bits are designed to cut in only one direction, unless otherwise noted. <S> I think one has to make special effort to find a left-cutting bit, although some screw extractors with an integrated cutter will be left-cutting. <S> Because a drill bit cuts, one wants the cutting edge to engage the work as it rotates. <S> Along with the dulling, great heat will be generated from the friction. <S> I have read on this forum of people who have used reverse direction on a conventional drill bit to effectively melt through plastic. <S> Drilling plastic requires special bits or special technique to prevent cracking the plastic. <A> Running twist bits in reverse drags the cutting edges over the surface rather than shaving off material. <S> In soft materials like wood you may scrape your way through regardless, in steel you'd make considerably less progress. <S> A more sinister issue is that the point of the bit being deprived of any bite will want to wander when starting the hole. <S> Softwoods mask the problem to a certain degree because you can create a large starting divot by arm strength alone. <S> On metals and engineered lumber <S> the effect is more pronounced. <S> Worst of all, running a twist bit backwards greatly retards the travel of cuttings up the flutes. <S> Rather than removing material the drill abrades it against the bottom of the hole until it piles up high enough to spill out. <S> In deep holes this will either lead to the bit getting stuck by the cuttings forcing their way up the perimeter of the hole or cutting a hole that's out of round. <A> Drilling counterclockwise is like razoring holding the razor upside down; the blade touches the thing to be cut, but it has no effect as it slides over it. <S> Your best bet is that if you cut wood this way, you (1) run out of battery soon and (2) burn the wood as the friction can be very large. <A> I have used this technique when working with Plexiglas and fine metals and wood. <S> First you are not drilling through the entire surface backwards, you are drilling through about 90% to 95% of the material and change the direction to pierce the last bit. <S> This technique prevents Cracking in Plexiglas, damaging the wood when the drill bit comes through and with metal especially the last part the drill usually catches before exiting the material, by reversing the bit it prevents the metal from grabbing the bit and bending.
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If used in the reverse direction, the cutting edge will drag and become dull in short order.
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Upstairs wooden floor, covered in glue after removing tiles. Advice? For some reason, my mother-in-law had awful wood effect floor tiles nailed and glued onto the floor boards in her bedroom (she has passed away and we have inherrited the house). 3/4 of the room is glued, 1/4 isnt, and that was the bit i took up first. Getting the rest off with a hammer will take ages, and we will be left with lumpy glue everywhere. My electrician told me he would rip the floor up completely and start again as its tongue and groove, so you cant even flip the boards over. Any advice would be very welcome! Thanks in advance. <Q> You gotta do what you gotta do. <S> But before you knuckle under and decide to start ripping out the floor boards do a little investigation. <S> If the floor boards extend out under the lower plate of the wall (especially load bearing walls) you will want to reconsider outright removal as remediation at the walls can be very problematic. <S> Get yourself a good chisel or two, a heavy hammer and some ear protection and go at it. <S> It often takes good old labor and hours of time to achieve what you want. <S> A heavy duty floor sander can also be used to remove dried glue but often the heat generated by sanding will soften the glue to the point that it just gums up the heavy grit sand paper. <A> If you are interested in salvaging the floor, and it is intact with no repairs made with dissimilar materials, get a professional floor finisher to look at it. <S> I have removed a bathroom floor with asphalt cutback holding the tiles down, I removed the tiles and proceeded to grind away. <S> It about wore me out, using 32 grit sandpaper on the edging machine that I rented. <S> It was a small space, <S> maybe 15 sq. <S> ft I was trying to tackle, but there was more to do. <S> A floor finisher was hired, knocked it out in no time and the floor turned out nice. <S> The sandpaper will readily clog, but with constant sandpaper changes, it will remove the glue. <S> The trick is to use a coarse enough paper to remove the surface before it heats up. <S> As Michael Karas states, it heats up the glue and clogs the paper, and using a coarse enough paper, it still will, and maybe get too quickly into the good wood below it, but that is were a pro comes in, they already have the experience to know when to stop and move on to a different part of the floor. <A> A few years ago I was removing the tile from my kitchen floor with two friends. <S> We spent the entire morning getting about 3 s.f. done, trying many solvents in the process. <S> One of us then inadvertently spilled a cup of coffee on the floor. <S> Water did the trick on the rest of them. <S> It must have been a horse-hoof glue or something similar that was water based. <S> Hard to believe that held so successfully for the nearly 100 years my house has been in existence, and was so hard to remove until we discovered that water was the solvent.
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If the glue is hard and dry it is sometimes not that problematic to remove with wide sharp chisel to get the biggest parts off and then use a scraper to remove the rest. Lo and behold, the wetted tiles came up easily.
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Why is my cooker tripping circuit breakers? I have a four burner stove with an oven. I would like to know why it keeps tripping the power when in use.It has a six position cam switch, and two of the four plates trip the circuit breaker at all positions 1 to 6. The remaining two start tripping at position 4 up to 6. I have not tried resetting the breakers everytime the they trip. <Q> Based on the timing of your post, English style, and the way you describe your circuit breakers and outage... I am guessing you are in the UK. <S> You did not mention any blinding, destructive explosion of arc and fire, which says this is not a "dead short" type overcurrent trip. <S> That all correlates. <S> It's quite common in the UK to have the entire house protected by a RCD, or Residual Current <S> (ground fault) Detector. <S> Your stove has a ground fault . <S> It's also possible it has four separate ground faults, one in each burner, owing to a pattern of use, cleaning or maintenance. <S> Or there may be a fault in the building wiring. <A> The fact that two of the plates cause the breaker to trip even on the lowest setting suggests a problem with the range itself rather than the power supply. <S> Is the range in good condition? <S> Is it clean - especially under the burner area (if that area is accessible)? <S> I say the above because at the lowest settings the range should draw the least amount of power and not trip the breaker at all, and for that matter if the house is properly wired the range should not trip the breaker even if all burners and the oven are on high. <S> If there is damage somewhere inside the range - or even a build up of conductive contaminants (grease, water, etc) then there may be some kind of electrical short occurring that only can occur when power is supplied. <S> It would be unusual <S> but I can't think of any reason why a breaker would trip at the lowest settings otherwise. <A> Breaker (over current protection), GFCI's, AFCI's are all protection devices that kill the circuit before causing a possible burn or shock hazard. <S> So if you stove or range is tripping a breaker (I am assuming a 50 amp 2 pole breaker). <S> Then something is very wrong with your range. <S> Since you have tried to reset the breaker and it continued to trip. <S> You need to turn the breaker off and either have the range repaired and tested or buy a new one. <S> Electrical faults do not repair themselves. <S> So you might want to contact a local service electrician to check out your circuit also. <S> I need to warn you that this is a potentially dangerous situation so do not try to reset the breaker and use the range until repairs are made.
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Attempting to reset a breaker and continued tripping will cause further damage to your circuit and breaker. It's possible it has a single ground fault somewhere in the stove's wiring, possibly in the return (neutral) wiring.
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When a 15-amp breaker switch seems to be sending too much power I am doing some wiring from a subpanel. The main panel is sending power via 3-way wiring (3 plus a ground) to the subpanel. This subpanel is intended for both 220 and 110 volt add-ons. I have a 110 line from the subpanel via a 15-amp breaker switch. It is a very short wire from the subpanel--maybe 3 feet away to an electrical outlet. I have thus far installed (1) a small radio to test the circuit; it ran fine for 10 minutes, then burned out and started smoking. Then, (2) I tried a lamp to test the circuit; the bulb lit up and immediately blew. Is there too much voltage/amperage going through this circuit? How? Shouldnt the 15-amp breaker switch keep this from happening? <Q> Is there too much voltage/amperage going through this circuit? <S> There is most likely too much voltage, as ArchonOSX commented. <S> How? <S> You miswired it and got 240V. You can check this using a voltage tester . <S> Shouldnt the 15-amp breaker switch keep this from happening? <S> This is mostly to protect the wiring in the wall from overheating and setting fire to your home. <S> It won't protect a 100W incandescent bulb or anything similar. <S> Those normally draw less than 1 Amp - far below the 15A breaker rating. <S> In the case of overvoltage, a higher current may briefly flow through your appliance/lamp but the appliance dies before the current reaches the breaker's limit. <S> I am doing some wiring from a subpanel <S> Sorry to be a killjoy <S> but I suggest you don't. <S> At least until you have gained a higher level of understanding of household electricity. <S> Since the higher voltage can fairly easily kill you, a family member or a visitor, you might want to pay an electrician to fix this for you properly and then consider taking some evening classes in the subject (if available in your part of the world). <S> Useful links <S> https://diy.stackexchange.com/tags/circuit-breaker/info <S> Why are my circuit breakers not tripping? <S> Where can I find information on slow blow breakers? <S> What is a GFI outlet used for, and where should I install them? <A> In any sort of split-phase 120/240V wiring, if the neutral is loose or poorly connected, it can cause the two 120V sides to have wild voltages between 0 and 240V. <S> The dead giveaway is that they will still add up to 240V, so one will be higher than 120 and the other lower. <S> So if your careful rechecking reveals that you did not mix up any wires, take a hard look at the neutral wire connectioms. <A> Only expanding on the breaker issue. <S> The breaker/fuse is connected in series and is designed to break when current through it reaches the specified value. <S> Period. <S> Breakers use the relationship between current in the coil and intensity of the magnetic field it generates; fuses use the relationship between current and power dissipation. <S> If we know what the mains voltage is, we can estimate what power must be consumed in the circuit to cause the breaker/fuse to open. <S> What power is needed to burn the fuse is a completely different story. <S> If you have a 15A fuse protecting 110V mains the faulty device will consume 1,65 kW <S> and I think the fuse itself will draw around 10 W to heat and burn. <S> If you use the very same fuse to protect 12V mains in your car the faulty device must consume 180 W to break the fuse. <S> If you have accidentally used 220V mains instead of 110V the device must consume 3,3kW to burn the fuse! <S> In your case, say you have used 100W/110V lamp. <S> In normal opperation it draws 0,9 A. <S> If you connect it to 220V mains it dissipates 400 W. <S> If I use a 50% safety margin in the lamp design it will withstand a 150 W load which is way too small to sustain the accidental load. <S> The current of 1.8 A is way too small to trigger the 15A fuse... <S> To your question: I will repeat what has been already suggested. <S> Get this work done by qualified electrician. <S> Do not do it yourself, unless you are damn sure what you are doing. <S> And get yourself a multimeter. <A> In an electrical circuit, voltage is "pushed" through the lines and current is "pulled" by any device drawing power from the lines. <S> This means that at your wall outlet you are providing a constant 120 volts (push) and no amps (pull), assuming nothing is connected. <S> If you connected a 120-watt bulb the break-down is that you are "pushing" 120 volts (constant) and you are "pulling" 1 amp. <S> The pull is determined by the resistance of the device drawing the power. <S> The equation to determine amps drawn is: v=I*r ( <S> where v=volts, I=amps, r=resistance (ohms)) <S> therefore, I = v / r Just to add, the maybe not so obvious, is that you cannot force more amps into the connected devices. <S> You cannot control the amps at all, actually (from a wall outlet). <S> The amps "pulled" are purely determined by the devices internal resistance. <S> To answer your question it doesn't sound like your breaker is the issue. <S> I think the other responders got it right by suggesting your voltage is high. <A> As others have noted, breaker is for amps rather than volts, and volts is your problem. <S> You should have a multi meter set to ac voltage 220v+ setting in order to test. <S> You should know what you are doing or get someone to help you who does before playing with electrical stuff because it is dangerous.
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No, the job of the breaker is not to block too much voltage but to disconnect the circuit when too much current is flowing. You may also have a problem with your neutral wire.
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Why would both switches on a 3-way switch fail simultaneously? My kitchen has six canister lights controlled by a pair of 3-way switches. Yesterday, I flipped one of the switches on and nothing happened. I tried the other with the same result. When I check the voltage, I get 92V on one switch for both pairs of wires regardless of the switch position. On the other I get 92V from one pair regardless of the switch position, but only millivolts from the other pair if in one position, 92V if in the other position. The lights do nothing regardless of either switch's position. Do I need to replace one switch? Both? Call an electrician? <Q> I wouldn't pay too much attention to the 92V unless there is some true current (amperage) running through it as it might be trace voltage. <S> This diagram belongs to do-it-yourself-help.com. <S> The original can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/3_way_switch_wiring.html <S> You need to find the source voltage and confirm you have power there. <S> In the image above it is sourcing from one of the three way switches and it will always terminate there. <S> That's where I would start looking, try and find the source voltage of 120V and start working from there. <S> The other common is always the switch leg. <S> Then you have the two carriers. <S> I know this sounds stupid but did you check the breaker and made sure you had power to the switches? <S> Most of the time failure is at the weakest points. <S> That would be splices and connections and the switches themselves. <S> So go through and check all splices, connections and switches one at a time. <S> Switches do break so look for actions that feel broken or are making noises like something is loose or broke free. <S> Normally switches do not go bad together but even one going bad could stop the lights from working. <S> The good news is that it is rare for the problem would be in the light fixtures, but that doesn't rule them out. <S> It would just be the last place I would look. <A> Thank you for the comments. <S> All were accurate and educational - although after picking up a new switch and installing it with no luck, my wife asked how I had ruled out the other switch. <S> As I was about to try the other switch, she said "no, I mean the third switch by the back door". <S> I didn't realize there was a switch by the back door other than the porch light. <S> Sure enough that switch was halfway between on and off. <S> As soon as it was flipped on, all of the lights worked again - although I felt pretty foolish. <A> This failure could be a problem due to the following <S> You may have wiring that was done with quick connect poke in installation. <S> Maybe there was an electrical surge that happened to take out all of the lights at once. <S> Narrow possibility but could happen. <A> Any time the lights are on, current is flowing through both switches -- after all, that's the reason why not only can either switch turn the lights on, but either switch can also turn the lights off, by interrupting the current flow. <S> A physical failure inside either switch where the failure mode is such that it breaks the internal electrical contacts could prevent the other switch -- which is perfectly fine -- from switching the lights on. <S> Assuming only one switch has failed (the problem could be somewhere else, not in either switch), the most intuitive guess is that the switch having no impact on the measured (phantom) voltage when flipping the toggle from one position to the other is the one that has failed.
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The wiring down wind from the switches to the lights may have open circuited. These are prone to failure more often than one cares to think.
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What should be done before using a fireplace that has not been used in decades? We are moving into a house with a fire-place.The current tenants (friends of ours),have been living there just short of 2 decades, and have never used it once. The house is about 90 years old, so it certainly saw a lot of use once upon a time. I myself rather enjoy a fire.Though I've not lived in a house with one, since I was a kid.Not really planning on using it for heating, but for a couple of times in the winter it would nice to be able to use it just for the enjoyment of the thing. Is there anything I should do before using it? Should I be worried about the chimney being blocked? How would I go about inspecting for that? <Q> You hire a chimney sweep to inspect (and clean) it. <S> In some cases it may need to be completely rebuilt - in others, it may simply need cleaned and inspected, or it may need something in the middle. <S> At that age, you may well find that you'll face relining to make use of it under modern conceptions of what's safe - it will have deteriorated with age and probably was not built to standards that are considered safe these days in the first place. <S> There are ways to solve that problem, but which way is applicable will vary with the state of the chimney, and any work that might have been done to it in the 70 years before it was disused for 20 years, as well as what's been going on inside it for 20 years. <A> Another thing to consider with a chimney that old is the distinct possibility that the bricks were laid up with a mixture of sand, horse hair and a bit of lime mixed in. <S> It is not uncommon for a chimney like that to have the external weather at the roof line and above erode away some of or all of the sand leaving the bricks literally free stacked with spaces between them. <S> Use of a chimney in that condition can set your house on fire if sparks sneak out through the cracks and smolder in your roofing material and rafters. <S> Another thing with old old chimneys is that they used to think that it was right OK to use the interior surface of the bricks as the heat exposed surface of the stack. <S> Now days the chimneys are built with a much different construction with some type of liner that isolates the brick/blocks of the chimney from the heat in the stack. <S> The liner could be a high tech triple wall stainless steel stack ($$$) or a more contemporary liner that is a fired clay affair with an inside glazed finish. <S> Such liners are specially mortared with a refractory cement which is a special high temperature silicate material. <S> One of the reasons that liners are used is that it gives the interior wall of the chimney a smooth surface so that there is much less chance of tar, pitch and gum build up in the chimney as opposed to what happens on the inside of a plain brick chimney with rough bricks and mortar joints. <S> Chimney fires that resulted from these deposits catching fire when an especially hot fire was in progress in the fire place were rather common place often leading to a good part of a house or all of it burning down. <S> As a matter of fact in my young years in a farming community in the 50's and 60's there were at least four such fires that I recall left the families without a home. <A> If someone offers to modernise your chimney by putting some sort of metal tube or liner inside, make sure the chimney is cleaned first and all soot is removed. <S> If this is not done properly, you risk having a fire in the space between the tube and the chimney, which you (or the fire brigade) won't be able to reach to put out. <A> Consider installing a wood-burning stove with a glass door in the same fireplace, along with a suitable new liner in the chimney. <S> You get the look of the flames combined with modern technology to keep the heat in the house and not burn it down. <S> You might even get a grant from your local authority. <A> The chimney sweep can do a smoke test to check for issues such as leakage and blockages. <S> This involves setting off a small smoke pellet and looking to see if smoke comes out the chimney at the top, and anywhere else it shouldn't be. <S> At his point you may find that the inside of the chimney has issues such as being blocked up, or even be at risk of internal collapse. <S> If the pointing is in poor shape this could let gasses through into rooms which are passed by the chimney. <S> The inside may have become rough which will reduce the flow of air up the chimney due to friction. <S> The usual solution to these issues is to fit a flue liner which will offer some support. <S> These can be flexible and fitted by shoving (to use the technical term) them down the chimney from the top. <S> Be warned though that this can be easier said than done. <S> In my circa 1830 house the flue has <S> bends and a few holes (small, about 500mm square) had to knocked in walls to get access and clear blockages. <S> If you do require a flue, in the UK it must be fitted by a HETAS registered installer. <S> An incorrectly fitted flue and fireplace can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning.
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If you want this to be a working fireplace you will need to first have it inspected and swept by a chimney sweep.
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dark brown stains in the bottom of a toilet a rental toilet has a dark clay looking stain in the bottom of a toilet that the renter was unable to remove. At first I thought it was very hard water, however, there was no evidence of stains in a second bathroom or any other fixture. There is evidence of cat litter in the area and I was wondering if cat litter could form a tough clay layer in the bowl? Also, if cat litter is in the toilet, could it be in the drain piping and be a problem waiting in thwings. Can anyone suggest a way of removing from the bowl? <Q> My mother had a cat and dumped the cat liter down the toilet. <S> At 90+,She would sometimes forget to flush the stuff <S> and it would cake like that. <S> When I would find it I would use a stick to dislodge what I could, and After much use it would dissolve and be gone. <A> I'd try using some sort of hard plastic spatula-like impliment to scrape the bulk off, followed by a vigorous scrub with a stiff-bristled toilet brush. <S> As for the rest of the drain plumbing ... if it is clay cat litter and it has settled somewhere inaccessible - you may well have a potential problem brewing. <S> You probably won't know until something gets stuck somewhere <S> (or you go to the trouble of pushing an inspection camera down the pipes). <A> If the toilet is older, maybe it does have hard water build up because the porcelain isn't as protected as the other..more porous possibly from years of abrasives. <S> Just a thought. <S> I have the same issue and will try Fixer1234'method.
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Cat litter is typically bentonite clay, so even if it has settled to the bottom & stuck to the surface it should be possible to remove it as it won't harden & set while under water (unlike cement).
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wiring the Air Conditioner plug Did I wire this correctly? My understanding is that strapped wire (green/yellow) is ground, so I connected it to the middle. And blue/brown doesn't really matter which way they go, since for alternating current positive/negative doesn't really matter. The flip side of the plug above And the original stock plug that I'm replacing <Q> Try looking up / googling the colour codes for your area. <S> For instance: - Then google your plug wiring information to see which one is regarded as live (hot) and which one is regarded as neutral. <S> You shouldn't swap live and neutral - stick to convention. <A> That is because the system is designed <S> so neutral is near <S> earth potential, so it is essentially non-hazardous except if something has failed. <S> Machines are wired with that in mind, for instance a screw-base lamp will wire neutral to the more-easily-touched shell. <S> However, your particular plug type is designed to be symmetrical - it can be flipped over, reversing hot and neutral. <S> This defeats the purpose of separating hot and neutral, and therefore requires a double insulated appliance. <S> If the air conditioner originally had a keyed plug, this might matter because it might not be double insulated. <S> The good news is the machine probably has a metal chassis, which will at least protect you from shock - if your ground wire is solid as a rock! <S> If it's not, an insulation failure could energize the chassis of the machine. <S> If you can't ground the machine reliably, GFCI aka RCD will greatly reduce that risk. <A> You can find information on the internet about wiring up plugs. <S> You should have: <S> Yellow/Green as earth, Blue to NeutralBrown to Live. <S> Comes with step by step instructions, visual aids and what to do if you are replacing a plug with the 'old' colours in. <S> If you are still in any doubt, then just take another one apart and have a quick check! <S> EDIT <S> That was assuming a UK plug..... <S> My bad, should have asked first! <S> but either way, information is freely available, and my last point still stands! <A> You have wired it correctly according to Europe colors . <S> Which is where you are. <S> However, two remarks on your work: <S> Earth should always be the longest wire in the plug. <S> When you give a hard pull on the wire, earth should be the last wire to let go. <S> This ensures the GFCI (RCD) will trip when any live wire touches chassis. <S> Instead f the chassis becoming live <S> Most devices do not care about Live/Neutral polarity. <S> Except for gas heaters or some high power devices. <S> Read the manual of the device.
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A good webpage to follow would be this one: https://www.rospa.com/home-safety/uk/northern-ireland/electricity/plugs-fuses/wiring-plugs/ Normally we do care about hot vs neutral, even though they are AC.
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Tree growing into gutter. What's a good strategy? I'm wondering what is a good long-lasting strategy to deal with it in a way that is respectful of the environment, i.e. the city does not allow cutting any trees. <Q> It's hard to say from that photo, but it looks like that bulge is the stump of a limb that could be trimmed back further. <S> Really that's a question for an arborist, though. <S> If you do so you'll want to pick the right time of year to help prevent fungal infection. <S> I agree that you're probably misinterpreting your city's ordinance, though. <S> No sane city government would prevent a homeowner from protecting his dwelling from invasive plants. <A> I agree with mmathis' comment that the ideal solution is to present the issue to the city to deal with the tree. <S> The tree will only continue to be more intrusive. <S> That being said, if you have to deal with the tree as is, the best solution would be to shorten the gutter by either cutting it and installing a new end cap or replacing that section of gutter with a shorter one. <S> You will want to install a diverter (also called a shield) on the roof. <S> This is simply an "L" shaped piece of metal. <S> One leg of the "L" will slide under the shingles and the other will stick up. <S> You will want to install this at an angle to kick the water from the edge of the roof over to the shortened gutter. <S> Be sure not to allow debris to build up, but given the proximity of that tree, you are probably already cleaning you gutters very frequently. <S> Something like this photo. <A> Sooner or later, this tree is going to do more damage to your house than bend your gutters. <S> Its roots are under your foundations, and as they grow they will eventually crack them and cause subsidence. <S> the more expensive it will be to repair. <A> A strong wind could push the tree closer to the gutter, and an earthquake could shake either the house or the tree so they hit each other hard, so severe damage to the gutter is possible. <S> I suggest pointing that out to the tree's owner.
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Talk to your city about your options, and get an expert to deal with the tree, sooner rather than later, as the more damage it does
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Making a small drain/vent/hole in a glass box I've got a glass box that measures 900mm x 450mm x 450mm. The width of the glass is about 6mm thick. If I drill, cut, or grind a small hole in/through one of the faces; will it significantly affect the structural integrity of that piece of glass? I'm concerned it might become prone to flexing, and cracking; if I pick it up to move (or transport) it, for instance. Is there some kind of ratio, or formula that I can use to determine a relatively safe size, and adjacent edge distance for an aperture? If you're wondering: It's basically a small indoor display garden / vivarium type situation, which needs at least a single outlet point through which gravity can be allowed to drain the excess fluids from the soil. <Q> While I cannot cite any specific sources for this, I'm going to posit the following answer: <S> Yes, structural integrity will be affected, but not enough to be concerned about. <S> in fact it's a technique used in windshields (particularly aviation windshields used in small planes) to STOP cracks from continuing to spread. <S> (Small hole drilled right at the leading edge of an expanding crack relieves the stresses in a sound manner) <S> I'm curious though why drill a hole in it? <S> That will have a tendency to trap moisture. <A> Once you successfully (!) get the hole drilled, there's little concern. <S> Not cracking it while you drill it is the hard part. <S> I'd say ~2 inches in from a corner, or at least an inch on a leading edge. <S> The thickness of the glass will ultimately determine how close you can get - and remain successful. <S> IIRC, the general rule for the bare minimum distance from an edge, to drill a hole in a structural member, is four times its thickness . <S> (anecdotal supposition) <S> I've heard that all panes of glass have a sweet spot. <S> I'd assume it lines up with one of the 1/8th harmonic intervals. <S> But it probably has more to do with how it's mounted, which means for drilling it, it should probably be on some hard plastic, not e.g., on a towel on a table. <A> There are a great number of aquariums , many with similar dimensions with 1 or 2 holes in the bottom, typically 1.5 inch diameter , with no structural problems. <S> And they carry more weight than your terrarium . <S> Actually , you could just get an aquarium , you wouldn't even need a drawing of it.
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Drilling a tiny hole will not cause any cracking - So on a 24" pane of glass, trying to drill exactly 3" or 6" in could be trouble. The box you describe is not suitable for carrying any kind of load anyway, and as you state above it's for display purposes. Granted aviation glass is different than what you've got but still - I think you're fine.
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Concealing led strip light power supplies in a porch ceiling I live in Ohio in a home built in the 50's. A very large back porch was added onto the home years later with a roof. It has the typical vinyl ceing. It has one light in the center of the ceiling controlled by a switch inside the home. I wish to remove the light and replace it with a non-lighted ceiling fan. I want to run power from the fans junction box to a separate one. My plan is to add 4 each of 12' LED tape light runs in metal channels that will be powered/switched from the switch in the house. The fan will have the pull chain to control it so when I turn the switch off in the house it will kill power to the fan and the tape lights. Now for the meat of this post; I assume (I may be an idiot, not a complete one) I have to cut an access hole in the vinyl and add a nice looking access panel. Am I allowed, by code, to cut the plugs off of the two power supplies and hard wire them into a junction box? Do I have to screw a box in the ceiling to hide the two transformers (one for two runs) directly above the access panel or is this not allowed at all? Any and all help would be appreciated. I have to do this as cheaply and easily as possible while remaining in code. Thanks. <Q> Normally you have to install a receptacle face down in the ceiling and plug your devices in to that. <S> For example, ceiling mounted projectors, garage door openers, stage lighting, all have to be plugged in to ceiling mounted receptacles. <S> Not hard wired. <S> Concealing flexible cord above a ceiling is not allowed by the National Electrical Code. <S> 400.8 <S> Uses Not Permitted. <S> Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following: <S> (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors (3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings (4) Where attached to building surfaces Exception to (4): <S> Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of 368.56(B) (5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or dropped ceilings (6) <S> Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise per-mitted in this Code (7) Where subject to physical damage <S> Note number 2. <S> There are other ways to conceal your equipment such as building a cove along a wall. <S> I just bought some 120volt LED rope lighting that can be much longer and doesn't need a power supply. <S> However, you still can't run it above the ceiling. <S> Good luck! <A> The way to connect corded supplys in my state is to do it inside an electrical junction box or gutter (gutters are usually metal trays with removable covers) . <S> I thought I would expand that I was thinking power supply in the box or gutter the low voltage DC supply can then be routed to the device. <S> If the tape lights are corded 120v I 100% agree with @archonosx <A> Please make sure that the light junction box is ceiling fan rated, falling fans are no fun and can ruin a weekend. <S> ☺
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A corded device hardwired in the access hole would not be legal.
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How do I stop a door from swinging open without taking out the pins? I have a door that swings open. If I open it a crack it will swing open the entire way. I want to be able to leave it at a certain angle and have it stay there. Here is the problem, I cannot take out the pins (this is a door to my office I use several times per week, my boss said fix it any way you like but do NOT take it off the hinge and do NOT remove the pins), so I need something to possibly attach to it to keep it from swinging. I noticed there are three holes drilled in both the top back of the door and the frame, it is like something was attached there before. Is there some sort of device I can attach to the door to keep it from swinging open or to control the angle at which it stays open? thanks for any ideas. <Q> It looks like your in a pickle with the boss's restrictions. <S> Isherwood was right in reguards to the door framing being out of plumb. <S> My suggestion would be to invest a couple of dollars for a rubber wedge type stopper,and put it under the door to hold it back where you want it. <S> Good luck! <A> Office doors typically have closers to meet fire safety requirements. <S> Sounds like one was removed, possibly due to failure. <S> The problem is that either the wall or the door jamb are out of plumb, allowing gravity to have its way with the heavy door. <S> The only proper way to deal with it is with a closer and a swing-down stop. <S> Everything else is hacky, and involves introducing friction to the swing. <S> You can bend the pins, but that's a bandage that won't last. <A> While this is not an "Approved" method. <S> If you set the door where you want to crack it at and take 2 hammers and stike the upper and lower parts of the hinge amd pin at the same time on all 3 hinges it will off set them and cause friction. <S> Make sure to tape cover door and frame since <S> you probably will hit them also. <S> Again this is NOT a approved method just a olf country fix.
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Get the office superintendent to fix it right with an adjustable industrial closer, and have a toe-operated flip-down stop installed to let you set the door where you like. You can install something that drags on the floor, but that'll wear out or cause damage.
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New deck pops and creaks after 2 winters. Water seal applied to top side. Can it be fixed? We bought a brand new house in 2015. Fall of 2015, we put Thompson's water seal on the top of the deck. I am learning that this was a mistake and it should have been applied to ALL sides of the deck apparently (according to a DIY friend)? I am not sure if this is what caused it but now after 2 winters, the deck pops and creaks terribly every time we walk on it (of course, maybe not the winter that caused it but last spring it was pretty bad and this spring, even worse). I noticed also that some of the screws used to fasten the wood to the deck supports are actually going inside the wood (the screw heads seem to be sinking in to the wood). Maybe the problem is twofold but I also see some moisture buildup on the underside of the deck when I look up at it from the patio. I read another thread and people said it may be caused by too much movement in the deck (could the screws sinking into the wood cause that)? Another suggested remedy was to remove each board one by one and put glue down on the joists, then replace with 3 1/2" deck screws but I want to get some help from DIYers first. I'm honestly not sure what type of wood it is by the way, looks like some treated lumber. How can we fix it? Thanks a lot! <Q> pab, When new pressure treated wood is used for projects, it is fine when it's fresh. <S> However, over time the pressure treated wood shrinks around the fastners as it dries and cures. <S> It appears as though they are are sinking, but actually the wood raises sinse <S> it's not as snug any longer. <S> My suggestion would be to replace your existing screws with a size bigger to fill the void around screws/nails etc. <S> I would also check to see if possible, that no fastners have missed any of the joist during installation. <S> As far as the the water water sealer goes, you want to put it over every crack and cranny of the deck that you can possibly get to. <S> A thick napped roller or sprayer will help with application. <S> The moisture build up could have been avoided if done properly during the deck install. <S> It is code is some areas to put down lanscape fabric or 4-6 mil black or clear plastic followed by up to 4" of stone that is 1" down to pea gravel size. <S> This controls weeds, mold, and allows for drainage. <S> This may not be feasable now that the deck is built, but I would consider pulling some boards randomly, and trench the water away from under the deck. <S> Good luck! <A> Movement and creaking is caused by the contractor using the standard 5/4" deck wood. <S> Next time use "two by" lumber , as 2 X 6. <S> it is 1.5 in. <S> thick instead of 1.25 in. <S> thick. <S> That thickness give twice the strength, twice the stiffness and twice the life. <S> My deck is 20 years old , been stained/ sealed 2 or 3 times. <S> This summer I replaced about 2 % that did not look good. <S> I am replacing them as needed with stainless screws. <S> I recommend not sinking the heads as your contractor did as the hole holds water = rust. <A> Some responses have noted that the deck material ie 5/4”, Some refer to it as pressure treated, etc. <S> I don’t know how they know this...here are some ideas: <S> So, to solve the “popping and creaking”, we should confirm 1) material (species) used <S> , 2) thickness/span, 3) number of fasteners per support, 4) shape of board, 5) stability (rigidity), 1) <S> Some species will shrink more than others. <S> However, shrinkage does not lead to popping and creaking unless it was so wet that it shrunk across grain and lifted it off its supports. <S> Then, when stepped on, it would “move” on the fastener. <S> I doubt the boards could shrink enough to cause this phenomenon. <S> 2) <S> If the boards are over stressed (the boards are spanning too far for their thickness), then you could hear a creaking. <S> However, you’d be complaining about the boards being too springy. <S> As a rule of thumb, most grades and species would be fine with: 3/4” thick for 16” span; 5/4” thickness for 20” span; and 1 1/2” for 3’ span. <S> Do your boards exceed these spans? <S> 3) <S> Each board should have 2 fasteners at each support. <S> If not, it could twist and bow causing the popping and creaking sound when walked on. <S> Are there 2 fasteners at each support? <S> 4) <S> Most exterior decks are surfaced 4 sides and <S> not T&G. If T&G, it could cause creaking in an exterior atmosphere. <S> 5) <S> When decks are not rigid, they move causing the fasteners to loosen. <S> Does the deck platform tend to move easily?New decks are now required to have anchors located along the house that keeps it secured to the house. <S> Is there any diagonal bracing under the deck?
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The only problem is the steel deck screws are rusting away .
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How do I mitigate large outgoing inductive spikes from home appliance? I have an old ultrasonic air humidifier that sends out a big electrical spike every time it turns off, making lights flicker and computer monitors restart. I'm afraid of using it because of the risk of damaging sensitive electronics on the grid, especially since I need to have it on a timer, turning on and off many times a day. Is there anything I can put in between the air humidifier and the grid preventing the spike from going out? I've been told that regular surge protectors aren't going to work. <Q> Connect it across the line ahead of the device. <S> The other option is an isolation transformer between the device and the main line which can help absorb spikes. <S> Good luck! <A> Yes. <S> Proper wiring. <S> The problem here isn't your humidifier. <S> The problem is the circuit it's on, or the building's service, can't handle the load. <S> Those aren't spikes, they're brownouts. <S> A surge suppressor will do nothing. <S> This is probably a common consumer appliance and they are sized specifically to work well on ordinary consumer circuits (though they will dominate). <S> So the problem is either a super defective circuit too much other stuff on that circuit <S> this is revealing a serious problem with the building wiring. <S> So go shut the breaker off that powers this humidifier. <S> Go see what else also turns off. <S> (Save your files). <S> It helps to have a night-light to stick in outlets. <S> You may find your answer. <S> At this point it may be time to survey your entire house's receptacles as to which receptacles are on which circuit. <S> Happens all the time where people stack every single load on the same circuit while three others go unused <S> , they just don't know any better. <S> For bonus points, get a $20 Kill-a-Watt meter and test each of your appliances and see how much power <S> they also draw. <S> Make a chart of how many watts (better: VA) you are putting on each circuit. <S> If getting your circuits sane does not work, then you have a power problem. <S> It is also possible this is a neutral problem, either within a multi-wire branch circuit or for the entire house. <S> The giveaway here will be that your voltage is not 120 (or 230/240 in Europe) - and your Kill-a-Watt will tell you that. <S> We use 120V in America. <S> At that point expect to see ratty old scary panels and wiring. <S> These things will burn your house down, so it's maybe time to think about a rewire -or if your panel will take them, AFCI breakers. <A> Options: <S> Get rid of the old ultrasonic humidifier. <S> You are risking damaging controls on HVAC, refrigerator . . . <S> any electronically controlled devices. <S> Try powering the humidifier with a surge protector. <S> Maybe this would filter out these spikes. <S> Get an Eaton whole house surge protector and install it in or on the side of your electrical panel through a 50-A 2-pole breaker. <S> This would protect against surges from outside (principally lightning) on the incoming power line and prevent a surge generated within one branch circuit from going to all the other circuits.
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You can try a large capacitor at the proper rated voltage, at least 250 if your device operates at 120 volts. Get a better surge protector/UPS for your computer. You will have to spend a significant amount of money to just try various means of filtering out these spikes. If you can't bear to get rid of it, at least stop using this humidifier until you can figure out what to do.
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what would cause a breaker box enclosure to be electrified? I was working installing a 2 pole 50A 240V GFCI breaker and trying to debug an appliance. I turned off the GFCI breaker I was working on, but the main breaker was on. About the time I had one of the wires undone I put my hand on the metal enclosure of the breaker box and received a shock. What could possibly have caused this? The main was on, and the GFCI breaker was connected to the box via the pigtail to the neutral terminal. Any heuristics/diagnostics to determine why the external enclosure became electrified? The subpanel (in a detached garage) has 4 wires coming in: 2 hot to the main breaker, one to the grounding bus, and neutral to the neutral bus. In addition, there is a very thick copper wire running outside the conduit that appears to terminate in the ground below the deck on the outside of the building. There is continuity between the neutral and ground bus, which I understand is not normal for a subpanel. Am I right in suspecting that the grounding electrode is not grounded? How would I test this? <Q> First I would like to say, thank god <S> you weren't seriously injured. <S> Second this is a very serious situation. <S> The reason someone is shocked when touching a metal enclosure is because you are grounded and the enclosure is not. <S> You're neutrals and grounds are tied together at the first means of disconnect. <S> It will be bonded at the main breaker and if there is no separate main it will be done at the Panel's main breaker. <S> Check to make sure the bonding screw is properly installed and the grounding bus is bonded with the neutral bus. <S> Then check to see if your grounding electrode conductor actually runs to a proper grounding electrode. <S> Check for corrosion and loose connections. <S> If everything is properly done, if you have a problem you should get a trip on the breaker having a problem. <S> If you're not getting a trip then you probably have a piece of 240V equipment that is missing a phase, the neutral, or the ground is not connected properly and you are getting one phase trying to seek a path back to the Panel and the breaker. <S> I noticed that you said you were trying to debug an appliance. <S> I would start there. <S> Under no circumstances should you be trying to troubleshoot this problem under power. <S> Disconnect all power and troubleshoot with a continuity tester or an ohmmeter. <S> If all of this seems to technical I would advise you seek professional help. <A> I put my hand on the metal enclosure of the breaker box and received a shock. <S> What could possibly have caused this? <S> The enclosure was energized and you were grounded and completed the path back to ground. <S> (This is only true on a grounded system). <S> If the enclosure is properly grounded and it accidentally becomes energized <S> then it should trip the breaker feeding it. <S> A wire could have been rubbed bare and come in contact with the enclosure or have been stripped improperly and come in contact. <S> If the enclosure is not properly grounded it becomes energized and DOESN'T trip the breaker. <S> Then it just sits and waits for someone to complete the circuit. <S> This is why proper grounding of a grounded system is extremely important. <S> Make sure this problem is resolved before proceeding. <S> Good luck and stay safe! <A> Ok <S> so I kind of figured this out. <S> The subpanel is actually grounded at 2 points - a small grounding wire coming in through the conduit from the house, and a large copper grounding wire going to the grounding electrode outside. <S> Due to differences in potential between the house's panel and the subpanel, the difference between the grounding bus and the outside of the subpanel with only its main breaker on is about 2v. <S> A small amount of current is being carried in from the neutral / ground from the house. <A> It seems like the feeder neutral is busted. <S> Fix it and then pull the errant bonding strap <S> These symptoms are a sign that the feeder ground was improperly used to route around a broken feeder neutral. <S> Turn off the feeder at the house, find the broken neutral, and fix it (you may need a UF splice kit, or even to dig up and rerun the cable). <S> Then you can pull the errant subpanel bonding strap out, and enjoy a shock-free life.
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Re-check all the wiring involved check the enclosure to a known ground with a volt meter to see if it is indeed energized.
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How can I install a grounding rod with bedrock four feet down? I have an 8 foot ground that hits solid rock at 4 feet. How can I meet the safety requirements for the 8 foot into the ground rule? Can it be cut in half and have two 4 foot rods driven into the ground? <Q> You can drive at an angle. <S> If I remember correctly, you can dig a trench and lay the 8 foot rod(s) flat in the bottom of it (Personally, I'd never go with one rod anyway.) <S> If you wanted a really good ground, you simply excavate your foundation to bedrock and use an UFER ground in the foundation concrete (it's a concrete encased ground electrode formed by electrically connecting the reinforcing steel in your concrete foundation - or a section of copper cable, but the steel is there and serves multiple purposes.) <S> 20 foot minimum, but common sense is to tie all the steel together for the best possible result. <S> Note on re-reading <S> - A CCE/Ufer ground does not require excavating to bedrock, but if bedrock is 4 feet down, you might was well put your foundation on the bedrock... <S> Responding to erroneous comment below: <S> Exception 1 to 250.68 indicates that buried electrode connections and concrete-encased connections to electrodes shall not be required to be accessible. <S> Exception 2 indicates that exothermic welded connections and irreversible connections to grounding electrodes that are encapsulated in fireproofing material are not required to be accessible. <S> The exception applies not only to the connection but also the mechanical fastening means, such as a nut or bolt, that establishes the connection to the metal framing member. <S> From EC Mag article . <S> But you can also look it up in the code, that was just faster to find. <A> I'm having the same problem. <S> My plan is to rent a roto-hammer (big one) with a grounded rod driver attachment, apparently this is a common problem. <S> If what I've seen on Youtube is real, this tool will pound it through anything with ease. <S> Alternatively, you get a well driller to sink you two 10-12 foot holes, and then grout your rods in. <S> I'd leave the laying them horizontal as the last resort, some AHJ's might ask " <S> So what's the phone # of the guy <S> you asked to drill this for you". <A> Try calling your local electrical supply and see if they have advanced driven rods. <S> These are grounding rods with carbide tips to be driven in with a hammer drill, just like drilling for oil☺. <S> Oh and personally I have a ground rod at each corner of the house all tied into the electrical supply.
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Or you could use grounding plates that are buried 2x2 plates of copper.
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Are there any serious dangers to using manual tools? Recently, I had to fix some things around the house, without access to my usual electric tools. I found that the manual tools, such as a crank drill and a handsaw, are quite efficient, and I can no longer see much of an advantage to using their electric equivalents, electric drills and electrical circular saws. One thing that speeds up the work is these manual tools are lighter and I do not have to worry about running out of batteries or running cords around the house. And more importantly, I can feel much relief working with tools that seem to be much safer. I think with a circular saw, one could easily cut off several fingers at once, in a split second. A spinning electrical drill could cause the similar damage in a short time. At worst, I think a manual drill or handsaw would just cause a cut, requiring a band aid. I cannot imagine a manual tool causing damage requiring a trip to a hospital. Are there dangers to these manual tools that I do not realize? <Q> Anything that cuts wood will cut flesh. <S> I have a guillotine miter trimmer that will take your fingers off if given half a chance. <S> I consider it rather more dangerous than my circular saw, as a matter of fact - if picked up carelessly the massive razor-sharp cutting head will move on its own and if anything is in the way it will be cut either deeply or off. <S> A rather more common tool that can hurt you badly if you are not careful is the humble chisel. <S> And that hand saw can cut tendons before you stop if you get in its way. <S> For the most part, dull tools are actually more dangerous than sharp ones (of tools that should be sharp) since a dull tool requires more force to use, so when it goes awry it goes awry with more force behind it. <S> A good deal of situational awareness encompassing "how this could go wrong and where the tool will go in that case" is a pre-requisite for safe tool use, powered or not. <S> As are details like actually using safety glasses when you use a hammer (chips from the object being struck can be flung into your eyes with no need for power to be involved.) <A> None that I could think of. <S> Just the usual hitting you finger with a hammer. <S> Other than some minor cuts and scrapes <S> I don't really see too much danger with manual tools. <S> But I'm sure there are if the tool is not being used correctly. <A> If you are working with the tools on a regular basis, you might encounter a repetitive-strain type injury. <S> Electric tools might not make sense for a one-off small project, where merely setting them up is even a bit of a hassle. <S> But working day-in, day-out on projects you might find that hand-tool are more of a physical drain or cause repetitive issues.
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While hand tools are in general somewhat safer (since you'll stop when you cut yourself) it's quite possible to damage yourself to a hospital-visit-required extent (before you stop) through mis-use of hand tools, especially if you think they are magically safe since there's no motor.
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Non-Permanent Plastic Pipe Sealant or Join Improvement? Brief: Looking for recommendations on a product to improve the seal of 2 joined plastic pipes (narrower pipe wedged into wider one) that is non-permanent + water and hot/cold resistant? Details: I have two plastic pipes (similar to PVC pipe) which is part of an Enersol solar pool heating panel that fit together, one into the other with a locking pin to hold them together. The fit is too loose and they leak constantly (we have had endless problems with these). As far as I can tell they are not damaged, just that the pipes don't fit snug enough. I want to make the seal better, but it can't be permenantly cemented together because if one panel needs to be replaced they have to come apart. I was about to try a wrap of teflon-tape around the inner pipe and try that, but it occurred to me that there might be a product meant specifically for this. Needs to be waterproof, and fairly heat/cold resistant. It is on the roof. Disclaimer: we are not handy at all. Thank you kindly. <Q> It appears to me that since it is on the roof, subject to extremes, that the joint needs to withstand the expansion and contraction of the PVC pipe. <S> That joint you are referring to is just that, it is a slip joint that allows the pipe to grow and shrink in length and presumably still not leak, since is a closed system, or supposed to be. <S> There should be a rubber or neoprene "O" ring that allows it to seal with movement. <S> It should just need replacement and reassembled using a silicone lubricant. <A> Or you could use a rubber pipe repair coller with supplied hose clamps that are sold in every hardware store or even wally worlds plumbing department. <A> Ive used it on many different projects and has never failed. <A> Ordinary silicone bathroom sealant isn't particularly adhesive, and a good tug should separate the parts if required (assuming you use just enough to make a seal); the rest should peal off. <S> If you want it to stick well, it's a good idea to clean and degrease the surface(s) <S> first, using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol). <S> Alternatively you can use it to cast a seal in place: <S> Clean one side of the joint as above, then coat the other with a thin, even smear of grease (e.g. Vaseline). <S> Glue with bathroom sealant. <S> When the sealant dries, it should have stuck to the cleaned side and not the greased side.
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Theres a product called [seal all] comes in a tube,gas,oil,water,far as I no resistant to pretty much everything.
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Reservoir tank continues to slowly fill and won't stop Sometime recently my toilet reservoir tank would not stop filling. It fill the tank to its normal capacity until the float is raised. Once that is done it continues to fill really slow . You probably wouldn't notice it unless it was really quiet and then you could hear the flow. If left alone it would eventually reach the overflow. So it is no a case of the float level being above the overflow. If I was to pull the float up as high as it comfortably goes the flow persists. The toilet is working normally. During this slow flow the water is not filling in the bowl so this issue should be limited to the resevoir. There are no leaks outside of the tank that I can find so I think the issue is with the ballcock? <Q> Most modern fill valves you can turn off the water and remove the cap. <S> Twist the upper valve part and it will unlock showing the seal and mechanism. <S> Place cup over valve tub slowly turn water to toilet on and run 3 seconds and turn off. <S> Reassemble valve by aliging tabs and twisting back on its only a 15 or 20 degree twist <S> so be gentle. <S> Turn water on and test. <S> If you live in a hard water or silty area or just have old galvanized pipes flakes get caught in there all the time. <S> I was buying new valves often till I figured this out. <S> Half the time a valve is leaking <S> it's usually this I have found <S> and you can't imagine the clients that are shocked to just get billed a minimum service call that took under 3 minutes and most of the time <S> if they are close or in my current route of the day I usually don't even charge them nothing more than a bottle of water or a cup of coffee ☺ <A> When the float turns off the fill valve, it continues to let through a tiny trickle. <S> This can be because the valve is worn down and no longer fits the valve seat, or because mineral deposits have built up enough to prevent the valve from fully closing. <S> The best solution in almost every case is to replace the fill valve. <S> You could try to clean or repair the valve. <S> I do this sometimes because I am terminally curious about these things <S> and I don't mind taking the plumbing apart several times. <S> Once the valve fails partially, though, cleaning and adjusting will only buy some little time before it fails completely. <S> Modern toilet tank fill valves (and ballcocks, too) are considered to be very inexpensive compared to the labor cost to remove and replace them. <S> It would not be economically worthwhile to design them so they could be repaired. <A> You can remove the top of the valve by twisting it [usally ccw] and there will be small particles that need to be removed that are keeping the water running because its not sealing good. <S> Works for me.
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Your fill valve has become worn out or compromised.
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Can a window A/C unit be installed without the side panels? I really like this A/C unit and its width is exactly the width of my window panel (21.5"), but the "Window opening minimum width" in the specs is 23". From what I've seen in the Q&A for this Frigidaire unit , is that The side panels, fully compressed, add 2" to each side. However, other A/C units (LG), on the same retailer site, have their width equal to the window open minimum . Are side panels necessary? <Q> In my opinion, no they are not. <S> they are conveniences added to the unit to fill the space of various window sizes. <S> Their main thing is to stop the transfer of air into the room <S> If you remove them, be sure that the openings (louvers) on the sides of the AC unit are not blocked by the thickness of the wall since the fillers used for a wider window opening would maintain some space automatically. <A> If unit specs are 23" minimum width, then I think you should assume the mfgr has a reason for giving that. <S> I have one window which is like that <S> --glass is in the plane of the outside surface of the trim of the cedar lap-and-gap siding. <S> But other windows are in brick walls and the brick trim extends 4 to 6.5 inches past the plane of the glass. <S> Nnother possibility is that if the side louvers are bent out, the actual width of the unit louver to louver is greater than 21.5 inches and it could not be slid out a window of width 21.5 inches. <A> Here's a Haier Serenity unit mounted without any side panels. <S> It is flush to the wall on the right and fits in the window panel with only a few millimeters of space that had to be filled in with foam.
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The reason may be that the side louvers are so close to the front of the unit that the extra clearance is necessary unless the window is in the plane of the outside surface of the wall.
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What kind of ventilation do I need in my workshop? I have a roughly 2.5 by 5 meter workshop with 2.5m high ceilings in which I work on electronics (so lots of soldering), do some occasional painting, and which houses a 3D printer. I want to add some ventilation in the ceiling, but I'm unsure what kind to put in. How much air should it move, and is it worth adding multiple "openings" (for instance, one over the 3D printer and one over the soldering station) in a space of this size? <Q> You can put the end of the hose right next to the soldering operation. <S> For an example on YouTube of someone who does a lot of soldering using one and showing how much gunk they stop you from breathing: Loius Rossman: <S> A word on soldering and fume extraction <A> Many work shops including mine have no powered vents and I paint weld and solder also. <S> (the printer is in the house next to the computer). <S> Is it a good idea to have some powered vents sure! <S> When I worked in a clean room the solder station had an exhaust vent within 6" to remove the smoke. <S> Outside the clean room normal ventilation for the room was all that was required. <A> Depends some on how much stuff you're putting in the air. <S> My father-in-law has a spray room attached to his workshop that's comparable in size to yours. <S> He sprays paint and finish onto things he makes and has to wear a mask when doing so. <S> So he has a large (roughly) <S> 3000 CFM fan mounted on one end, but he's not doing this in a hobbyist way (he builds cabinets for a living so he'll spray dozens of things at once, sometimes). <S> A good bathroom fan can move 50-200 CFM. <S> Know that the higher CFM ones are typically taller than your rafters, but are typically very quiet as well. <S> I would aim for one in the 100 CFM range, given the size of the room.
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If you are doing a lot of soldering then a dedicated soldering fume extraction unit would be a good idea. What is needed would be based on your personal wants and how much you want to spend. If you're a hobbyist and not spraying anything (especially wood finish), you can probably get away with a good bathroom fan, ducted to the outside (either through a dryer vent or a roof vent).
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Why doesn't my air conditioner's drip pan drain properly? My AC Unit in my attic is roughly 10 years old, still heats/cools exactly as it should, but I noticed yesterday that the drip pan is overflowing. What do I need to do to get the drip pan to drain? And what is causing the drip pan to fill? <Q> First - why is your drip pan filling? <S> Because the process of cooling air requires the use of a condenser which gets very cold. <S> Humid air when it contacts cold surfaces causes moisture in the air to condense (think how a glass with cold liquid gets condensation on it). <S> This water falls off the condenser and into the drip pan. <S> Second - Why is your drip pan over-flowing? <S> You should try to run a thin snake through the entire drain. <S> Hopefully the drain pipe is big enough to allow this. <S> Do NOT put drain cleaner in the pipe as, as you've seen, it will drain into your yard and cause damage to plants. <A> Often this happens because your drain line goes outside. <S> You've got a cool, moist and dark pipe so algae can grow there. <S> More modern installs tend to try and put it into a vent stack inside the attic, where it's not as likely going to be a problem. <S> There's a couple of ways to deal with this Pour some bleach down the drain line once every few months. <S> Not a lot of bleach, mind you, but enough to kill anything growing in the pipe (maybe 1/4 cup bleach with 3/4 cup water). <S> My mother didn't know this and hers backed up into the house. <S> In her case, the drain was inside the HVAC closet by the blower with a cap she could have accessed. <S> Get an HVAC guy to install a condensate pump . <S> He can then put the condensate there and the pump can push it into your vent stack, wherever that is. <S> Normally your pan shouldn't be catching the water directly, as it's more of a "limit the damage" measure. <S> The condensate pump will sit inside the pan <S> so if it fails, the pan catches it. <A> I had a problem like this many years ago. <S> I did some experimenting: <S> I could pour water into the disconnected pipe and it would flow easily. <S> My condensate drain pipe ran to the drain pipe of a nearby bathroom sink, which was draining just fine. <S> I concluded there was a pressure problem and the condensate drain pipe would work correctly if I added a vent. <S> Here is a picture of one person's solution. <S> It doesn't look too elegant, but it illustrates the method. <S> My drain pipe ran from the condenser to an elbow, and then vertically downward, IIRC. <S> I just replaced the elbow with a tee and added a short length of pipe at the top of the tee, leaving it open at the top end. <S> Problem solved, in my case. <S> Now, it had been working fine before all of this happened. <S> But the problem showed up just like you described it. <S> I don't know why or how it was working before I did this, but I never had trouble again.
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Sounds like your drip drain is clogged. I found if I disconnected the condensate drain pipe, the water would flow out of the A/C without restriction.
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How can I lower an attic ladder by remote control? We have just put in an attic ladder in a shop. The problem is that we have a 10 ft ceiling and I can't reach it. What can I put on it to make it come down automatically with a remote control or switch? My problem is not opening the hatch, but reaching the ladder itself. I can't reach the ladder to unfold it. <Q> <A> There is no cool video of this one but the description says These stairways are available in 2 different models. <S> One is the S3000 Series which is semi-automatic meaning the door panel will open or close automatically, but the stairway sections must be manually folded or unfolded. <S> The other model is the S4000 Series which is fully automated. <S> There seems to be a number of manufacturers, but at $3750 this one <S> the systems are not cheap. <A> As Brhans and Machavity discuss re: premade products: make a hook. <S> You'll need a common hardware store J-hook, two eyes,and a 1" dowel. <S> Screw or bolt the eye into the bottom of the ladder. <S> Screw the hook into one end of the dowel <S> (predrill so it doesn't crack the dowel). <S> Screw the other eye into the wall to give you a place to hang the dowel when you're not using it. <S> Use the dowel to hook the eye and pull the stairs down. <S> It can also be used to nudge it back up. <A> My first thought would be a linear actuator. <S> You can wire it up to a switch and when it is flipped, the actuator extends out to the length of its stroke. <S> It might take some engineering to make the right mounting and brackets, but there are a ton of examples out there. <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_actuator <S> Of course, you wouldn't be able to pull the door down further than the stroke of the actuator, so you would have to take into consideration how much space you need to unfold the attic ladder and space to crawl up into the attic. <A> An extension to the pole and hook/eyelet would be to use magentism. <S> I'd consider a steel plate on the underside of the hatch, and a pole with a magnet on the end. <S> Or maybe the other way around <S> so the magnet is permanently on the hatch and any steel-tipped pole would work. <S> To open the hatch you would pull the pole straight down, andto disconnect the magnet you'd slide it sideways off the metal plate. <S> Main advantage is there is no ugly looking hook poking out of the ceiling.
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There are kits you can buy , where you attach a metal ring to the door and then have a pole you store nearby to reach the ring and pull down on to extend the ladder There are electric ladders exactly for this purpose.
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Can a white neutral wire be used as a three pole traveler wire? I live in a 1977 vintage apartment building in the US. I have two 3-pole switches for my bedroom entry light, which are not working correctly. The one switch must be left in the "up" position all the time in order for the other switch to be able to turn the light on or off. They do not work independently of each other like they should. Upon opening up both double gang switches, I noticed that one of the white neutral wires on each switch is separated from the others. Could that be the missing traveler wire? Also, does a three pole connection require use of a 14-3 cable, which has a red wire which I hear is the only color for a traveler wire. One double gang box has four 14-2 cables. The other has three 14-2 cables and one 14-3 cable, but that is already being used for a switch controlled outlet. <Q> The answer is yes <S> in 1977 the white was regularly used as a switched leg. <S> There are 2 travelers. <S> This is quite common in DIY where someone did not pay attention to the original wiring. <A> The governing rules here: <S> green, green/yellow or bare must be ground. <S> white or gray must be neutral. <S> any other color is a hot wire . <S> a white or gray wire can be re-marked to be a hot wire with tape, shrinkwrap or paint. <S> Historically the marking could be omitted if the usage was "obvious" . <S> In practice this meant the electrician was in a hurry. <S> Generally you re-mark with a color legal for a hot. <S> In a 3-way (UK 2-way) switch loop , all the wires are hot. <S> Give n free choice of wire color, it's fine to make both messengers the same color. <S> They should be distinct from everything else, though. <S> Today, there is an NEC requirement to bring a real neutral wire to most switch locations most of the time. <S> In that case, a switch loop would use 14-4 cable, or 14-2-2, which is now becoming more readily available for that reason. <A> 14 ga wire is okay for lights only. <S> 12 ga is for general use around the house. <S> 10 or even larger is for special heavy loads. <S> (There exists 12/3, of course, which also would be okay, but not necessary.)
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So yes, you would re-mark a white wire as another color. It sounds like someone has replaced the switch in the past and mixed up a common for a traveler ( in This case common is the switch contact that toggles from 1 traveler terminal to the other) The main point, however, is that 14/3 is okay for the scenario posted. There are, of course, calculations around this stuff, that you should look up in such cases.
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How to cover up ripped drywall with minimal effort? My basement has many ripped drywall areas like in this picture. How can I cover these areas up with minimal effort and cost. It doesn't need to be permanent or look extremely good, as I see this as semi-permanent solution to make it less ugly for the time being. Covering it up with drywall is an obvious choice but it costs quite a bit and it's not the easiest to cut and install. Is there another type of material (such as thin wood board) that I can consider? <Q> If you're just looking to cover up the wall, a sheet of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood (4x8') would probably work. <S> You can get them at the big box stores for $20 or less. <S> I'm not sure how much drywall costs where you are, but my big blue store carries a 4x8' sheet of 1/2" drywall for $8. <S> If you've already got a level and a utility knife, you can cut it to size (score with the knife and snap). <S> If not, those are things you should probably own as a homeowner anyway, so now's as good a time as any to get them! <S> If you want to get fancy, you could get a drywall square; my blue store has one for $12. <S> Throw in tape and a tub of premixed compound for $15 or so, and you're out the door for just more than the plywood. <S> If this is the only place you're needing to fix, it looks like a single 4x8' sheet would cover that whole area, with little left over. <S> In that case, the plywood might be slightly cheaper, but if you need a second sheet for another area, the drywall starts to become cheaper. <S> Of course, you could just put up the drywall without any compound, making it much cheaper than the plywood. <A> For temporary, stapling up some black plastic would be the cheapest way to go. <S> Other than that, with any wood or drywall you still have to cut holes for the outlets and plumbing. <A> Fully remove the damaged drywall material and clean up the area. <S> Then if you want to get this looking more finished then install new drywall as was originally intended on these studs. <S> Drywall will likely be your lowest cost material. <S> Drywall material is also relatively easy to cut and install. <S> It is certainly easier finish after installation to a nice smooth surface if it is taped and mudded properly. <S> As such it is much more forgiving as to where you select to have seams which can be needed to fit pieces in around awkward items that are in the way of installation. <S> Using most other types of sheet goods to cover the wall is ending up to be more difficult that using drywall.
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If you've got more than one of these areas to do, you'll only need more drywall making it cheaper overall.
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How can I determine the color / temperature of my current fluorescent bulbs? I intend to replace an old and large population of T12 flourescent lights with T8 LEDs: direct wiring. The ballasts are $15 a piece (2 required per fixture) and it would seem that a 4 X $10 direct wire LED bulb is a better choice because of the labor to replace future ballasts is high. That being said, I would like to understand what color is in the current population and would like the LED to match the population so that the phasing in of the LEDs is seamless. Is there a clever (simple) method to assess the color? I bought a contractor pack of T12 fluorescents (4100K): is this the 4100K the common standard for fluorescent lighting <Q> Take a couple out and check, and they are all likely the same. <S> If not, you can compare the color to an image like this : <S> There is no "standard" for fluorescent lighting, as they come in a variety of temperatures. <S> That said, fluorescent bulbs are more traditionally associated with the institutional bright white light, which would put them on the higher end of the temperature scale (closer to 6700K). <A> If you have a smartphone, look for an app that leverages the camera to give you color temperature. <S> Android iOS <A> Generally speaking, 4100K has been the traditional standard for fluorescents, with some 3500k seen here and there. <S> If you bought 4100k tubes and they match, that's your color. <S> It really isn't any big deal to mix colors during a transition. <S> The point is, finish with the color you want . <S> If you don't know what you want, consult an expert because this is a big expensive project - get it right. <S> Your Color Rendering Index (CRI) on older tubes is probably in the 50s or 60s. <S> The new T12 tubes you just bought will be at least 80, commonly 87-91, and possibly as high as 98. <S> I personally love them. <S> LED replacements can't get to that CRI yet, and I'm happy to have 90+ CRI real fluorescents. <S> Make sure your ballasts have two wires going to each end of each fluorescent tube. <S> If there is only 1 wire, then the fluorescent lampholders (tombstones) are surely "shorting lampholders". <S> Those will not work with LED "tubes" which take hot+neutral from the same end of the tube . <S> I don't know why you posted that pic, but that describes same-end types. <S> They won't play with shorting lampholders. <A> 4100K is common for T8 fluorescent lights. <S> It gives of a more bright blue hue light. <S> Some people prefer around 3500K for a softer better color rendition. <S> It's really all about preference and use.
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Shop carefully for LED "tubes" which take hot+neutral on opposite ends of the tube . The temperature will likely be printed on the bulb somewhere.
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Road noise reduction in the balcony I am living in an apartment which has a balcony right next to the small road. Even thought the road is quite small, cars are still driving there and it makes a lot of sound if the doors to the balcony are open. The balcony has no solid vertical wall toward the road, but only iron bars every 20cm. Would that help if I would put on the ground a half of meter height plastic (or other material) board over the length of the whole balcony next to the iron bars? I don't expect 50% of noise reduction but at least little bit would be good. To illustrate my point, this is how it looks: <Q> Different sound frequencies have very different characteristics in terms of what you can do and how effective it will be. <S> The road noise is a mixture of sound frequencies. <S> There probably is nothing practical you can do about the low frequency noise, but you might be able to muffle the sound a little by reflecting high frequencies and absorbing mid frequencies. <S> Think in terms of the sound panels used to create cubicles to reduce office noise. <S> They aren't real effective, but they help a little. <S> You could even start by experimenting with ones you find in a used office equipment store. <S> Plywood with thick carpet padding glued on, and a protective cover would be a reasonable first test. <S> But making either of these weatherproof will be a challenge. <S> For more naturally weatherproof materials, you could look at T1-11, thick, dense styrofoam panels, or even corrugated plastic panels for the backing, and closed-cell foam sheets (the material used for boating applications) for sound absorption. <S> Of course those would totally block your view. <S> If you have a lot of money to blow, you could try clear Lexan panels. <A> I would suggest that any part of the balcony open area that you close off will help reflect some of the sound back out toward the road. <S> The only real way to know how much it helps would be to try it. <S> It could be cheap to try getting some large corrugated cardboard cartons from an appliance store that you could cut up and place along the railing in a temporary manner to see if the noise reduction was suitable for you. <S> What ever you do wants to be easily removable without leaving any trace that it was there. <A> You could encourage your apartment managers to let you plant a row of thick hedges by the roadside.
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Thick vegetation does a surprisingly good job of cutting road noise. You could also make your own. Note that since this is an apartment and you are most likely just a renter you want to be very careful to not do anything that is permanent or modifies the basic structure.
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Assessing the cause of freezer coils icing up We have a 6 year old Frigidaire upright freezer (around 17 cu ft). It suddenly stopped cooling, even though the compressor was running, and it was producing puddles of water on the floor. I thought it might be just icing up, so I unplugged it for a day and eventually, the dripping stopped. I plugged it back in and it appears to be working normally. I'm aware that low refrigerant can cause it to ice up. However, it's a totally sealed system, with no connections for testing or refill. Which leaves a number of expensive possibilities if there's still a problem: Fill it up again with food and possibly lose another batch of food. Get it serviced, which would run about half the cost of a new one. Replace it. So my question is about trying to determine whether there is still a problem. Is it usual or typical for a freezer in normal working condition to build up ice on the coils over time from house humidity, or does that happen only if there's a problem, like low refrigerant? I kept it at the maximum cooling setting, which produced a temperature of below minus 10 degrees, which is colder than a normal freezer setting. Could this have contributed to its icing up? If the problem is low refrigerant, best case is that there was always a minute leak and it took 6 years to lose enough to cause this problem. However, that means even if the rate of continual loss is tiny, it's already at a low point, so it would be expected to ice up again. If the refrigerant is low enough to cause icing, how fast does that occur? For example, If I just run it empty for awhile to see if it ices up again, what order of magnitude of time would be a reasonable confirmation that it's OK (days, weeks)? Or is that too variable to be a useful test? Is there anything else that can be checked without specialized refrigeration testing and repair equipment that would indicate whether the system is not running normally? <Q> Like the OP said. <S> "It's a sealed system. <S> " If it was a leak it wouldn't "remove heat" at all. <S> (fridges don't cool, they remove heat.) <S> Automotive AC's DO leak, slowly, because they use rubber hoses/lines. <S> So forget about the "low refrigerant", that ain't it. <S> The problem is one of three things. <S> First (and most likely) the defrost timer. <S> It's usually located in the plastic housing in roof of fridge compartment. <S> Look for a larger hole that does not have a Phillips screw in it. <S> Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the flat head looking plastic piece you'll see inside that hole. <S> It's like a timer you use for your Christmas lights for example. <S> Turn it until you hear a loud "click". <S> Listen for your compressor/motor to turn off. <S> If after about 5-10 minutes your coil starts dripping water/black heater coil bar gets hot (the header runs along coil; don't touch it, it gets real hot) <S> then your timer's shot. <S> Go online with your fridge model number and order that cheap part. <S> Remove the screws that hold that plastic cover on, unplug the old put in the new, WITH THE FRIDGE UNPLUGGED. <S> Turn the new timers screw until 2 clicks when u install it <S> so it's in cooling mode. <S> If it does not heat up <S> it's probably the defrost thermostat (a little disc mounted by coil.) <S> Test with multimeter. <S> It should have continuity when it is at freezing temperatures and should change to open circuit when the temperature rises above approximately 37 degrees F. <S> If that checks out <S> then it's the heating coil rod. <S> Double check the timer/thermostat before concluding <S> it's that because it's a bit of a job to replace and least likely problem. <S> but you won't see major solid freeze up, just excess, making the unit work harder and run longer than it should. <S> Here's a decent video on this issue. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kNfNfHTgCo <S> He does keep calling the timer "the thermostat" but corrects himself in captions. <A> It is probably low on refrigerant because of a leak somewhere in the sealed system. <S> Just because it is a sealed system does not mean it will not leak. <S> During the "normal" building process one of the builders was probably not having a great day (not enough sleep, poor instructions, or too much wine the night before) <S> so he did not do his job correctly. <S> You will have to make a decision to have it serviced of replace it. <S> Most stuff today is made to be replaced not repaired. <S> We now live in a "replace", don't fix society. <A> Well, I can offer a data point for anyone else in the same situation. <S> I just let it run with nothing in it to see how it would behave for at least the first few days. <S> Within a few hours of plugging it in, it reached the expected temperature. <S> Then over the next day and a half, the temperature rose 40 degrees. <S> So at least in my case, letting it run for less than two days was long enough to demonstrate that it's malfunctioning.
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There is also a slight chance that it could be cause by a bad door gasket
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Where does the voltage in a circuit go from 120v down to 0v? I've always wondered where precisely the voltage on a circuit drops from 120v down to 0v. It's "somewhere" inside of the load (a lightbulb or whatever), but doesn't exactly make sense, because if it's just "It drops to 0 when there's resistance in the circuit", well, there's resistance in the wire the entire time, and it doesn't drop in uniform fashion throughout that circuit. So I figured I'd draw 2 things. For the theorists: A picture eliminating the typical load to hide behind as an answer. And the equivalent for the practitioner: A picture of witnessing someone being shocked and trying to know where it's safe to touch them (if at all) to pull them off the line. Edit: The guy getting shocked shows voltages listed, but no meter / or where the voltage is tested from. But it's implied that if you saw a hot (120v) wire from an outlet, the voltage is the difference between that wire and ground. The idea of the pictures is to help pinpoint the idea that no one is talking about where exactly the point is that the voltage steps down from 120v to 0v. <Q> Think of voltage as electrical pressure. <S> It doesn't "go" anywhere. <S> It is the difference in potential between point A and point <S> B. You can never measure voltage at a single point, it is always in comparison to another point. <S> So, if you put both leads of your meter on the same electrical point, as you did with the neutral and the ground since they are terminated on the same electrical point, you read zero. <S> Birds sitting on a high voltage wire are only touching the wire at one point and there is no comparison point for a measurable voltage. <S> So they are not hurt. <S> We create electricity by creating a difference in potential (voltage) between two points and then allowing the difference to flow (current) through a load (resistance) to create work. <S> As long as you don't get between those two points, you are safe. <S> Learn more here for free. <S> Go to the education tab for the open source textbook and lectures. <S> Good luck in you learning and stay safe! <A> The resistance in the wire is very small, unless something is wrong with the wire (usually a bad connection - wire itself is quite reliable.) <S> The abstraction <S> that the wire is of zero resistance is close enough to true (in comparison to a load that should ever be connected to that wire) for many purposes, but not true. <S> As such, your meter, set to a low enough range, will actually show some small voltage, not 0, which will depend on exactly where it's connected to the wire. <S> Likewise the "120V" reading will vary slightly depending on where that is connected. <S> But that voltage (in a properly-designed/built/meets code circuit) is small enough to ignore for practical purposes, so we normally do. <S> Example - a 100 watt light bulb at 120VAC - resistance about 144 ohms. <S> connect it to a typical 15A circuit wired with 14 Ga wire <S> , say it's 100 feet from the panel to the bulb - the wire (on each side) has a resistance of 0.25 Ohms. <S> 120V <S> / 144.5 ohms = 0.83A. <S> The wire (on each side) amounts to roughly 0.208 volts (measured from the panel to the bulb), and the bulb thus sees 119.584 Volts rather than 120V. <S> Now, if you "get rid of the load" you have roughly 0.5 ohm at 120V, also known as a dead short, and 240 amps flows in the wire, with about 60V drop on each side to the point where they connect. <S> In a properly built circuit, this condition does not last very long at all as the circuit breaker or fuse will quickly disconnect the circuit. <S> In an improperly built circuit, a fire will soon result. <S> As for not becoming the second victim in an electrocution, you turn the power off. <S> In a typical house that means you find the main breaker and throw it off. <S> For household voltages, if for some reason you cannot turn the power off, you use an insulating tool (such as a dry wooden broom handle or a long plastic item) to knock the wire away from the victim, or vice versa. <S> Don't try that with power lines (which run at much higher voltages) <S> , should you be so unfortunate as to find one of those connected to a person. <S> In the "pictured scenario" you could also just pull the plug. <A> Voltage is really a relative measure. <S> Note how you compared the voltage compared to ground. <S> You can sit on a live high voltage wire as long as you don't touch anything that isn't on the same potential. <S> It's not the voltage that kills you <S> it's the voltage difference, <S> (technically it's current but you need a significant voltage differential to conquer the resistance in your body and the killing current current). <S> If you take 2 resistors of equal value in series across a voltage source you will be able to measure half the voltage from the middle point to each leg of the voltage source. <S> However the human body is not a uniform resistor. <S> If you see someone getting electrocuted they are part of a live circuit. <S> Pulling him away from the live wire may cause him to break contact with the ground before breaking contact with the live wire which may result in current flowing through you to your connection to ground as well. <S> The safer method of saving someone touching a live wire is to cut of the power or shove with an isolating pole, <S> don't let yourself become part of the circuit . <S> Then call 911/112/999 (whatever the emergency service number is in your area). <A> In your left drawing the load is shown in yellow. <S> If the load is primarily resistive, such as the heating element of an electric space heater, then the voltage drops progressively and continuously from 120 V on the hot side to 0 V at the neutral conductor. <S> Mid-way it will be 60 V.
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For a uniform resistive wire the voltage along the length will drop linearly.
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How to finish wide gap in drywall at edge of ceiling I have a long narrow gap in the ceiling where it meets the wall. It is too big for plaster and tape, but too small (and uneven) to cut a piece of drywall. Furthermore, unlike in this question , there is no wood to fill with plaster. What is the best approach to fix this? <Q> You could use a piece of inside corner bead and finish it like any other inside drywall corner: <S> A less aesthetic solution would be to cover the gap with a piece of wood trim and paint it to match the wall. <A> Jimmy's corner bead solution is probably easier and I upvoted it. <S> I will also note that this is, IMHO, an incorrect installation - the ceiling drywall should extend to the studs, and the wall drywall should butt up to it, fully supporting the edge. <S> That also allows for errors in the ceiling drywall fitment up to the thickness of the wall drywall without resulting in a visible gap. <A> If you can find a drywall supply house... <S> there is a product you can get... <S> it's called no-coat 325... <S> it is applied like paper taper but is rigid enough to fill that hole. <S> I am a drywall professional and would do that. <S> There is an extra wide version that you can get if the hole warrants it. <A> All the above answers are correct, However I would just mix some 20 min hot mud really thick just add little of water to the mix then pack it. <S> This mud wont shrink but may sag a little. <S> Then use a 6" knife and scrape flush with the lid and then tape with a more smoother 40 min hot mud and let that harden then coat it with 40 again. <S> Its important to scrap just before the hot mud is setting, it will be easier to work with. <S> All ways prefill cracks and butt joints prior to tape. <S> This will eliminate cracking down the road. <S> Good luck <A> The ceiling goes on first, going completely across the ceiling with no gaps. <S> The walls should support the drywall ceiling edges by "butting" up against the ceiling pieces. <S> If there is a slight gap where the floor is that is ok (bottom of sheet) <S> the wood trim will cover it. <A> Rigid paper tape, fold to fit, float with hot mud... <S> Clearly it's not quality work <S> and I'm sure if there were available funds it would have been hung correctly. <A> Mix up some stiff hotmud, or better known as durabond and fill the gap. <S> Then paper tape it and coat it. <A> I disagree with your premise. <S> There is no such thing as a gap that is " too big for plaster and tape, but too small (and uneven) to cut a piece of drywall. <S> " When I have made boo-boos like this, I cut a narrow strip of drywall to fill the gap as much as possible, then mud & tape it. <S> With care and attention to the mud and taping no one <S> but you will ever know the difference. <S> I have also seen professionals (I'm just an experienced amateur) <S> deal with large gaps such that the job was finished you would never have known any problem existed. <S> When doing a reno in a very old house where things are rarely plumb and square, you will either spend forever cutting the drywall to fit "perfectly", or you will have situations somewhat like this, and deal with them. " <S> Mud covers a multitude of sins."
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The other method is to make a larger, more regular gap by cutting the present drywall and patching it with new drywall cut to fit the new gap. However quickset hot mud sets up hard and can do the job if done correctly... Although I up voted other answers, the correct thing to do as others have pointed out is to take it down and start again. Then do the walls start at the top and working down.
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Electrical wire to use w/ 240V outlet for Tesla charger? I'm buying the material needed for an electrician to install a 240V outlet in my garage for a Tesla charger. I need to buy wiring that has to go through an underground conduit, and I was wondering what type I need to buy? <Q> THWN is the stuff you need <S> You'll need to get get 6 AWG copper or 4 AWG aluminum THWN in black and/or red for the live wires as well as white for the neutral and 10 AWG bare copper for the ground wire. <S> While it sounds like "40A charger = 40A circuit", NEC 625.41 says that the charger is a continuous load, which requires upsizing the wire to 6AWG (or 4AWG for aluminum) and the breaker to 50A as a 40A breaker will eventually trip if subject to continuous 40A current through it. <S> If you know how long the conduit run is as-run -- you can order wire by-the-foot in each color (including bare) and add about 5' for terminations at each end. <S> Or, you can get a bunch of white (say, a 250' spool should leave you and the sparky with plenty left over to negotiate over), and have the electrician treat it as the universal donor wire color it is (tape flags for hots, strip it bare for grounding duty). <S> Using wet-rated (UF) cable is a bad idea because it makes the pull harder for the electrician, and the wires inside aren't marked for individual use so you can't take the jacket off. <A> I won't write a detailed answer since ThreePhaseEel nailed it. <S> But to confirm, yes, you want THWN wire , which is a single wire, not a multiconductor cable. <S> It is designed to operate in wet locations (which is to say: immersed) and to endure the physical strain of being pulled through a conduit. <S> It has a slick nylon outer jacket for that purpose. <S> Electrical cables are not flexible like cordage. <S> They have no nylon jacket, they are stiff (even 10 AWG is like wrestling an alligator) and will want to bind and snag. <S> Since Tesla insists on using the NEMA 14-50 connector, you will need four conductors including ground. <S> It must be copper. <S> A neutral which must be natively white wire (or gray). <S> Two "hot" wires which are either colored wire (any color except the above), or white wire which has been marked with colored tape on both ends. <S> You can use metal conduit itself as the ground wire, however for an underground run, I would only do that if the conduit is Rigid type. <S> That is a practical workaround; 40A receptacles don't exist. <S> A 40A circuit has a 40A breaker (duh) and requires 8 AWG copper wire or 6 AWG aluminum. <S> Ther are several reasons to upsize, though. <S> First is to reduce transmission loss over long distances. <S> The second is future flexibility. <S> It could also support a 60A subpanel, allowing you to power other loads too. <S> Price it several ways, all these will require 3/4" conduit except 4Al will require 1" conduit. <S> 1" will make the pulls easier in all cases. <A> Actually, if the charger is rated for 40 amps, you need a 50 amp circuit. <S> So you take their current draw and multiply by 125%. <S> 625.41 Rating. <S> Electric vehicle supply equipment shall have sufficient rating to supply the load served. <S> For the purposes of this article, electric vehicle charging loads shall be considered to be continuous loads. <S> So, if it draws 40 amps you need a 50 amp circuit with #6 THWN wire. <S> Good luck and stay safe!
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A ground wire which is natively green, green/yellow stripe, or bare wire. You don't want to pull a multiconductor cable through conduit. You will be using a 50A receptacle even though the Tesla charger only wants 40A. If you run 6 AWG copper or 4 AWG aluminum, you can make it a 50A circuit just by changing the breaker, and support a larger charger or large RV. Otherwise, the hardware store sells 8 AWG bare solid copper ground wire, which will suffice for anything we are talking about here. EV chargers have to be sized as a continuous load.
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Ungrounded GFCI Outlet with 3 pronged connection I have a GFCI outlet on top of my pergola outside that had solid 3-conductor wire ran from there to an outlet on the other side of my patio when my parents built the house. My Mom wants me to put some decorative exterior lights on top of the pergola, so we bought a strand but they have a 3-prong plug. Although the GFCI outlet has a ground connection, it is not actually hooked up where it plugs into the wall. This is because when my Dad ran the cable and he used a very heavy gauge solid core wire. Unfortunately, when I went to terminate the cable into a 3-prong outlet with screw terminals, the wires were so stiff that I could not get the ground wire connected to the screw terminal (I put one of those stickers on the GFCI outlet indicating it is not grounded). I've attached a photo for further clarification. My question is; do I need to connect the ground for the lights to operate safely, or is it good enough that they are connected to a GFCI outlet? I think I'm going to end up going with Harper and RME's solution with the pigtail. I can confirm that the outlet DOES WORK without a ground connection, just an FYI. I'll install the pigtail this weekend maybe when it's not so hot outside.... <Q> Pigtail it Heavier wire for long runs is a good thing. <S> If it's just a problem of fitment of the wire, solve that with a pigtail . <S> Get the correct size cable for your circuit (12AWG for a 20A circuit, 12 or 14 AWG for a 15A circuit). <S> Cut off a 6" length of each wire, attach them to the receptacle (tip, do this sitting at a bench, a real back saver), then simply wire-nut those pigtails onto the wires in the box. <S> Push it all into the back of the box. <S> Done. <S> Why 2 GFCIs though? <S> If you don't know what you're doing, you should only use the LINE terminals of the GFCI. <S> But then, you did come over from the Electronics forum. <S> So here's the skinny. <S> The LOAD terminals are special. <S> When you extend the circuit off the LOAD terminals, that extension is also protected by the GFCI . <S> Feeding that into another GFCI is basically doing a " Yo, dawg" joke. <S> it's not dangerous, just pointless. <S> In fact, the smart electrician will arrange his circuit so the GFCI device is indoors , with all the outdoor receptacles downline and fed off those LOAD terminals. <S> That way he doesn't have to spring for outdoor-grade GFCIs, and the outdoor wires themselves are also protected. <S> GFCI breakers are expensive for my old panel, so I have 4 GFCI receptacles right at the panel. <S> You can plug something in there if you really want to, but their real purpose is that their LOAD terminals go right back into the panel to power other circuits. <A> provided that it is marked "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND". <S> Although most multi-receptable assemblies do not provide any means of separating the grounding conductors, it would be safer to have all the grounding conductors detached from each other than to have them attached to each other without any sort of earth path. <S> If there is some means of attaching them to something that's kinda-sorta grounded but would not pose a hazard if briefly tied to hot through a low-resistance path, that would likely be safer yet, but I don't know of any such means that would be recognized by electrical codes. <A> This is a misinterpretation of NEC Article 406.4 (D)(2) which provides a method of installing a three wire receptacle in lieu of a two wire receptacle in dwellings built pre 1968. <S> In new dwellings you can not have ungrounded receptacles and mark them as such. <S> Providing the smaller wire still has the current carrying capacity of the breaker protecting it. <S> It can either be solid or stranded.
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If your wire size is too large to install on a receptacle you can simply pigtail a smaller wire onto the larger wire and connect to the receptacle. Within most parts of the US, it is legal to install a GFCI without a ground connection They are not simply another pair of screws like on a common outlet.
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Is there any advantage to pouring a thicker concrete slab for the basement? I'm working on designing a new house and trying to determine how thick the basement slab should be. This home will have poured basement walls over the footings, so the basement slab isn't bearing the weight of the house walls. The International Residential Code (IRC) 2012 which applies in my area states that: Concrete slab-on-ground floors shall [...] be a minimum 3.5 inches thick I've found that most slabs are 3" to 4" thick, excluding the footings. But I also know that the code is a minimum, and in some cases it makes sense to go beyond what code calls for. Is there any advantage to pouring a basement slab over 3.5" thick? <Q> Before I'd add more concrete <S> I'd add reinforcing - reinforcing is cheap and the benefit of it is huge, <S> .vs. <S> unreinforced concrete. <S> After that it's a matter of use. <S> Will you have a machine shop in the basement? <S> You might want a bit more thickness, too. <S> Will you be playing ping-pong and/or putting in a 1970's basement bar? <S> No benefit. <S> Woodworking machinery? <S> 4 inches is probably plenty. <S> Storing random junk you probably should throw out? <S> Your wine collection? <S> An additional consideration (has not much to do with thickness) is whether you might ever want heat in the basement - in which case, installing radiant heat tubing in the floor, and insulation under the floor and around the outside of the foundation walls is another low cost upgrade with major benefits, if you get it done in the planning phase. <S> Yet another consideration: Installing exterior drains at footing level is trivial when the hole is open (just the cost of the pipe and placing it - perhaps one more trench to take it away from the house) but terribly expensive if you discover a need for them later on and have to excavate... <A> The strength gained is significant, and it's not like you're adding labor. <S> I'd be much more certain that a 4" slab was at least 3.5" thick everywhere than a 3.5" thick slab was poured over perfectly level ground smooth as a baby's bottom. <S> Practically speaking the total volume of concrete is going to be a consideration. <S> It does come in trucks after all. <S> It doesn't make any sense in my mind to do a 4" pour if you can also do 5" with a single load. <S> Conversely, if you can do a 4" slab with one load but the 6" you have your heart set on will require two <S> then you'll need to weigh the extra cost and logistics of that. <A> In my opinion there is none. <S> I have seen 6" thick slabs crack. <S> The main thing is get the proper reinforcement in there before it is poured so the cracks stay superficial. <S> Many times a 6"X6" welded wire mesh (WWM) is used, but if you want to overkill that, got to 3/8" or 1/2" rebar in a 18" or 24" in both directions. <S> Making sure it is supported before it is poured so it stays in the center of the slab or at least near it.
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Thicker slabs also provide a greater margin for error because any sections that are slightly thinner won't be an issue. Minimum thickness is fine.
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Vent a portable air conditioner with a 6 inch hose through a 3 inch hole in the wall I bought a new portable air conditioner for my condo. I bought this one: a/c . I want to use it to cool either my living room or my bedroom. My apartment is 1100 sq. ft. so I believe this should be more than enough to cool down either portion of the condo. However my condo is not A/C friendly. It has only narrow casement windows and one roof to ceiling sliding window in the living room. I am also not allowed to install a window mounted A/C. However, it does have these 3 inch holes in the wall in many of the rooms (presumably for ventilation or A/C). I heard some of my neighbors use those holes to vent their A/Cs. I wonder whether this is safe or not (fire, mold). If it is, can I just hook the hose into a 6 to 3 reducer? What material is good for this purpose: PVC, metal, something else? I know there are ways to install portable A/Cs in casement and tall sliding windows but both seem too complicated. I was hoping I can just use a reducer and be done, but I want to make sure it is safe. BTW the condo exterior walls are concrete.The holes clearly lead to the outside (I can see the street through them) <Q> The reduction of the diameter from the 6" of the hose to 3" through the wall may not cause a significant problem. <S> The resistance to fluid flow of a pipe is [inversely] proportional to the square of the diameter and directly proportional to the length of the pipe. <S> You could ask the mfgr, but you may have to try it. <S> I bet it will work fine. <S> The key to making it work would be to make a gradual transition from 6" diameter to 3" diameter over say 8 inches to 1 ft of length. <S> Presumably the 3" hole in the wall is lined with a pipe, right? <S> I wonder if those 3" diameter holes are positioned vertically so that a ductless mini-split a/c could be installed. <S> How high above the floor are these holes? <S> How far are they from the ceiling? <S> Would the building management allow that? <A> If your air conditioner came with 6 inch hoses it was designed to work with the flow rate available in that size. <S> It is not advisable to be reducing the operational size of the hoses because it will compromise the operational functionality of the AC unit. <S> Since flow rate (at a given pressure) is related to the cross sectional area of the pipe be aware that a 3 inch pipe has only one quarter of the area that a 6 inch pipe does. <S> If you were going to try using those existing 3" holes you would have use four holes in conjunction with an elaborate manifold to split from the 6 inch. <S> (And do you even have 4 holes to use per 6 inch hose?) <S> Even though the venting through the window seems complex it is going to be way simpler than the above described manifold system! <A> I actually tried reducing the exaust pipe on a portable AC unit. <S> It comes out at 6" and we reduced it to 4". <S> I knew it wasn't right at the time <S> but did it anyways for some reason. <S> However, waiting 10 minutes and restarting it seems to reset the unit as it still works fine. <S> Tomorrow I am installing an inline fan ~5ft after the reducer and hope that works. <S> Otherwise I will be cutting a larger hole and replacing with 6" this weekend. <S> At the end of the day, I'm pretty sure that having its exaust capaciry so restricted overheated the unit <S> and it triggers the AC off. <S> Now whether it does this in advance of and in order to avoid causing damage or as a result of some damage I'm causing, I'm not sure, but the air seems just as cold as before.
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So if the length of the 3" diameter hole is short compared to the length of the 6" hose, then the constriction to 3" may work OK. Anyways the AC worked fine for a few weeks, but then it would click off and just pump out warm air. This would prevent the creation of turbulence which could restrict flow.
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Grounding for surge protection I'm running a long Ethernet cable between my garage and home (50m). How do you guys protect your long cable runs (and thus your equipment) from lightning surges?House is separate from the garage. About a 15m 20mm PVC ducting section underground between garage and house, and then the rest up in the roof (a portion running on the outside of a wall). I was thinking of using APC Ethernet ProtectNet surge protector on both ends, however it requires a ground connection. So 2 questions: Can I connect this to my mains ground? Will a large surge cause the mains to trip? <Q> Best option - get an outdoor-rated fiber patchcord, SFPs, and switches with SFP slots for each end. <S> You have the duct in place, this should be simple enough. <S> Prices have come way down. <S> If you use the wired method, the wiring /surge device should be bonded to the house and garage grounding systems at the service entrance to each building. <S> Using a shielded cable so you can ground the shield may be beneficial. <S> Typical cheapest, easiest, good-enough method for most homeowners (since fiber requires replacing your network hardware in most cases) is a point-to-point or mesh 802.11ac wireless link. <S> This may also improve the heck out of your WiFi, depending what you have now. <S> Not as fast as a wire or fiber, but faster than most service to the home. <A> You want your grounding system to be tip-top . <S> In new work, the correct grounding system is: A grounding system (ground rods etc.) <S> at the house Another grounding system (ground rods, whole nine yards) at the detached building <S> The two grounding systems connected to each other by the grounding wire in the AC power cable which supplies the detached building from the main (or vice versa). <S> This can be bypassed in some cases, for instance if you have a single circuit powering the outbuilding. <S> (no subpanel). <S> The upshot is that your ethernet cable has not a ghost of a chance if it's asked to carry lightning currents, and the electronics on both ends have no chance if exposed to lightning voltage. <S> You want to pull lightning away from your electronics, e.g. by having proper lightning rods on the buildings. <S> When lightning strikes, there will still be a several thousand volt voltage differential between the house grounding and the outbuilding grounding, that can't be avoided. <S> And make sure that equipment is properly grounded. <A> If you put the surge arrester on the house side of the wire run, you can hook it into mains ground. <S> However, if the entry point is far from your load center, I'd recommend using a grounding rod buried next to the entry point. <S> (In general, you want surges to pass to earth ground in the least possible. <S> Free advise: <S> (I've run Ethernet cable from a WAN radio tower to my house for the last 12 years and have seen 7 events) <S> Run your cable into a sacrificial hub/switch/cheap router. <S> Better to kill a $10 4-port switch than a port in an expensiverouter. <S> Keep spares for everything relevant. <S> Keep something nearby to patchthe surge suppressor out of the wire if you need to test it. <S> Havea spare ready for whatever you connect the wire to (router, switch,etc.) <S> You don't want to have the connection die and have no abilityto troubleshoot and no ability to get back running. <S> Keep your router/network configuration backed up and documented. <S> Document <S> it knowing that you'll have plenty of time to forget thespecifics before your first event, but you will eventually have thatfirst event.
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I would put an expendable electronic device on each end of the run, like a hub or ethernet amplifier. So your first step is to bring your current grounding system up to current code.
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Is it OK to use motor oil instead of household oil for hardware lubrication? I was about to buy a bottle of 3-in-1 for random stuff around the house, but I realized I have motor oil in the garage already. Is there any harm in using, say, 5W30, for door hinges or whatever? <Q> I use regular oil as well for things like you are asking. <S> I would get a small pump oil can to help dispensing the oil. <S> On hinges, to keep the mess down, remove the pin, coat it in oil, let the excess run off and reinsert the pin. <S> You could still run a little over the surface of the hinge barrel but obviously you will need to keep a wipe rag handy. <A> Engine oil does have a lot of additives to reduce wear in internal combustion engines. <S> Some of these additives might not be approved for domestic use. <A> Use lard or vegetable oil on door hinges, not critical. <S> But other applications like guns have specific requirements . <S> Real gun oil is very high ,narrow boiling range, 3:1 Oil is pretend gun oil. <S> There is low temperature vacuum grease that costs $ 30 for 25 grams. <S> It depends on the application . <S> Motor oil is often good enough around the house.
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Personally I would use 3-in-1 or other light machine oil.
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Does true wireless 3-way switch exist? I currently have a 3-way switch setup which is made up of two 3-way switches to control a hallway light. Due to oversight, an additional (4-way) light switch is much desired in the middle of the hallway. The cost of opening up the wall and rewiring the 3-way circuit to accommodate a new 4-way switch is prohibitive. The wiring is new and all the switches have neutral. I am wondering if there exists a wireless switch (looks like a wall switch but without wires behind) that can be used to toggle another 3-way switch over wireless such that I can have a 4-way setup. I have looked at several products. Many of the so called "wireless 3-way switch set" is really a wireless controlled single pole switch that turns existing single switch into 3-way. Here is an example of such "fake" 3-way: https://www.amazon.com/SK-8-Wireless-Anywhere-Lighting-Control/dp/B0052ROEB2 Does it exists a set similar to above but replaces a 3-way switch? <Q> You had the right product in the first place. <S> The product you linked as your <S> "I wish this did that" does that . <S> If you scroll down, you can see the "frequently bought with" and suggested products includes a unit that is just a remote. <S> You buy another one and pair it to the receiver, which goes in one of the 3-way swirch locations. <S> Thea other 3-way is abandoned electrically and replaced with one of the remotes. <A> You can get pretty close. <S> "...looks like a wall switch but without wires behind... <S> " Assuming here that your looking for the standard TOGGLE light switch, then you're not likely going to find the exact product. <S> If Decora or paddle style wall switch is acceptable, then replace <S> both existing 3 way ends with this or this <S> (the difference is the first is on/off only, the second also Dims- choose the dimmer if the hall light is dimming compatible). <S> For the middle location choose this wireless switch plus a mounting bracket and any standard Decora or paddle switch wall plate . <S> Insteon (also known as smarthome.com) does have good phone support (although their phone system produces horrible call quality-if that happens ask the support person to call you back as calls in that direction don't seem to be affected). <S> (the middle switch will only need charging a few times a year). <S> Honestly you likely already have this standard USB cable <S> , it's pretty standard and the same used to connect most camera's and non-apple phones to a computer or charger. <S> (I put smarthome.com links for the last two because those two items appear to cost much more when purchased via amazon.) <S> Disclaimer: I do NOT work for Insteon <S> /Smarthome.com. <S> I do work for a company that has a sales/installation agreement with Instean/Smarthome. <A> Short answer: <S> I couldn't find anything like that either. <S> And its companion switch here . <S> These can be programmed to come on automatically or manually. <S> And then they shut off automatically after a programmed amount of time. <S> Good luck in your search. <A> I've been trying to do the same same thing and based on my research the SK-8 Wireless DIY 3-Way you mentioned ( <S> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052ROEB2/?tag=stackoverfl08-20 )may be the best option. <S> I ordered it but looking at the product page description i'm not in live with it either. <S> But it should do what i'm trying to do for now which is to have a way to turn on my kitchen light at both entrances. <S> It's such a simple solution i would have thought there would be many more options with all these different smart switch models on the market these day. <S> oh well...
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Initial set-up (specifically linking ) is slightly confusing if you've never before used Insteon products, wiring is however straight-forward. Instead, I would suggest replacing your existing three-ways with a vacancy type switch such as this . You also need a standard USB cable and perhaps an adapter to charge the wireless switch.
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Powering a 240V 15A air compressor with a 6-20 plug I have an air compressor with a 240V 15A power requirement and a 6-20 plug (looks like normal US plug but with one of the flat ends turned at a 90 degree angle). Instruction manual can be found [here][1] (pdf hyperlink, 1MB). I'm trying to figure out the best way to deliver power to it. I have a gas powered generator that has a 120/240V 30A L14-30 twist lock outlet. Alternatively my house has a 240V 4 prong 30A dryer outlet (it's a 14-50 plug/outlet but is on a 30 amp breaker). I'm looking for a quick and safe way to get the compressor up and running other than having an electrician put in an appropriate new outlet. Any ideas? Info plate on motor attached. [1]: https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/pd_download/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807019.pdf <Q> Actually, it is a fielder's choice. <S> Good luck and stay safe! <A> TLDR: <S> you must follow the labeling or instructions on the motor or compressor. <S> You can change breakers without changing wires. <S> cheater cords are out of the question. <S> labeling and instructions on an appliance must be followed. <S> if the breaker is 30A, only 30A receptacles can be used, and usually only one. <S> if the breaker is 15A, only 15A receptacle(s) can be used. <S> if the breaker is 20A, 15A or 20A receptacles can be used, but if there is only one receptacle, it must be 20A. <S> Plugging into the house wiring with a cheater cable is a no-no. <S> The right way is to change the breaker to 20A then fit a NEMA 6-20 receptacle. <S> You do not need to change the wire, you are always allowed to use thicker wire than the breaker requires. <S> Obviously you will not be drying with electric at that point. <S> The problem is that the compressor could have a serious problem, and the breaker would not trip because it's too large. <S> You need to follow the labeling or instructions on the motor or compressor. <S> A generator is an expensive way to run a compressor. <A> Put a 30A cord on it <S> You should be able to remove the existing cord from the compressor and attach a 30A cord (10AWG cordage, either terminating in a 6-30 or a 14-30 with the neutral wire at the device end terminated in a way that won't short to anything, including the case) to the thing. <S> This is no different than putting a 15A cord on a 1A clock. <S> The device itself is overload protected, and the breaker will protect the premises wiring from gross shorts. <S> While you're at it, you can fix the dryer so it uses the proper receptacle (14-30) instead of the 14-50 <S> you say it's on.
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I'm not sure if it's legal with a generator, it is certainly more common to hork things up with cheater cords. Either way, all you have to do is make up a cord with #10 wire that is rated for 30 amps with a male plug on one and a female plug on the other to transition between the different plugs. The rules for 240V receptacles are exactly the same as for 120V receptacles:
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Detect central vac pvc piping in walls I need to detect the in-wall PVC pipes for a central vac system. Apparently one port was covered up with drywall, so the vacuum is broken and the entire system is useless. I cannot find anything for sale or any method that detects PVC pipes with no water in them. <Q> Can you snake a long extension cord through the PVC pipe, run some current through it, and then use a high voltage cable finder to locate the cable in the wall? <S> Vacuum pipes usually don't have a whole lot of bends in them, so the snaking should be quite simple. <A> Central VAC lines will be arranged to be connected with minimal turns from the wall port up/down to the main line heading back to the central unit. <S> It may even be that the main backbone of the system is a larger diameter pipe that reduces down to a smaller size at the wall ports. <S> (Note it can be more of a problem if it is a two story house and the backbone piping is located between floors and feeding to wall ports on both the upstairs and down stairs rooms. <A> Use a plumbing camera with detector. <S> The camera head puts out a very localized signal. <S> Plus, you can view the camera output to find dead-ends. <A> If you know the rough location of the outlet take a 4' level and run along the drywall horizontal <S> and you'll see a hump in the wall.... <S> this should be the outlet location.
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If this construction exists in your case it should be possible to locate the wall branch pipes in the basement or attic.
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Incorrect voltage at light sockets Light bulbs on our kitchen lighting circuit need frequent replacing (lasting only a few months.) All other circuits in the house behave normally. There are three switch legs on this circuit: 6 recessed lights, on a 3-way switch, with LED bulbs. Distance from switch to first light is ~10'. Each can is ~3' from the next. 5 pendant lights, on a single dimmer, incandescent bulbs. Distance from switch to first light is ~15'. Pendants are ~3' apart and ~5.5' long. Chandelier with 5 light sockets, on a single dimmer, incandescent bulbs. Distance from switch to light fixture is ~15'. Light sockets are ~6' from ceiling. An electrician came out and discovered that the voltage at each switch is 120v, yet each light socket only reads 113v. The electrician checked in the attic and didn't see anything odd; the wires looked fine, no extraneous junction boxes, no damage, etc... The advice was to try out bulbs rated for 110v instead of 120v or re-run the switch legs. What could cause such a voltage drop over short runs and three distinct switch legs? Do I have any other options besides the two offered by the electrician? <Q> In residential interior wiring, voltage irregularities generally are only a concern when over-voltages are seen and not under-voltages. <S> Incidentally however, when there is an under-voltage, there is usually an over-voltage on the opposite phase somewhere else to balance it out. <S> 113V is fine. <S> Light bulbs, except for the LEDs, are pure resistive loads and will not burn up from under-voltages. <S> Now 130V would be a problem if the bulb is not rated for 130V. <S> I would also consider hiring a different electrician as what he suggested is nonsense. <A> It's a floating neutral . <S> But it's only the one circuit. <S> Find, re-strip, re-splice, and tighten down all of that circuit's neutral connections. <S> If it goes directly through an outlet, pigtail it. <A> Everything you are saying depends on where the electrician checked the voltages. <S> So did the electrician check for voltage drop across the dimmers themselves? <S> If there is a drop it would be there. <S> The other thing that causes abnormal voltage drop are joints not making a solid electrical connection. <S> So look for loose wires or corrosion or anything that would cause the drop at connection and splices. <S> On the least likely side you might check to see if the circuits cross an area that produces a high amount of heat. <S> The only thing a 113V load would do to an incandescent is make the lamp put out less light and actually burn cooler. <S> I know this may sound a little snobbish <S> but we have found the main reason incandescent lights burn out at an abnormal rate is that they are poorly manufactured lamps. <S> The other main reason is a lot of surges from the utility company. <S> Such as when you are in a new development and there is construction all around you. <S> In construction, before energy management codes took effect we installed incandescent lamps using 130V filaments. <S> It's a heavier filament and does not burn out for a long time. <S> Unfortunately these are not available to the normal consumer and all the advertising about longer lasting lamps you see on the labels from retail outlets are generally hogwash. <S> I know since over the years I and the companies I have owned and worked for have bought every style imaginable only to find there are no noticeable changes in longevity worth the extra cost. <S> You might try going to LED <S> but if you do make sure your dimmers match. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Since you replaced the existing bulbs with LEDs <S> I bet you have the wrong dimmers. <S> Further since you mentioned a seven volt drop over a short distance I bet you have really old dimmers as newer dimmers do not show a voltage drop when full on. <S> I would recommend one of the following: go back to incandescent bulbs. <S> replace the dimmers with switches. <S> replace both dimmers and led fixtures with ones known to work together. <S> replace the dimmers with blank plates and use self dimming bulbs. <A> As mentioned above check the wiring for a floating neutral, bad grounds via a polarity checker. <S> You might also be getting spikes on the line from anything with a motor eg: an appliance (particularly an old appliance) or treadmill :) <S> Check each socket for rust or corrosion <S> Go to the fuse box and pull the the fuse or breaker (electrician required :) Note, IMHO, 80% of electrical issues are due to rust or corrosion. <S> Note, Note, RESPECT electricity and turn OFF the circuit before any cleaning, removal, etc.
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Check each ground for rust, corrosion or loose connection Many LED lights are not equipped to deal with dimmers and those that are need dimmers rated for LED loads. Dimmers will affect the voltages on the load side.
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Replacement for Ikea backboard I am trying to move an Ikea Pax closet . And even though I tried to gently remove the backboard (put a stick against the edge from inside along the board and hit the stick so it would distribute the power), it still left all the nails in. I removed the nails but now I am not sure I can reuse the backboard. It doesn't look like Ikea sells replacement backboards (so much for their promise of helping re-use). I am sure Home Depot- or Lowes-type stores sell some kind of hardboard, but is there anything specific I should think of / ask for when getting it? Or if anyone knows an Ikea parts replacement place that has the backboards, that would be even better. <Q> The backboard is part of the anti-racking structure and very much needed and used by just about every closet. <S> Backboard where the nails where pulled through can be reused a few times by putting the nails into new holes. <S> At least until the edge is too chewed up. <S> As for replacement you can take a chunk of the board with you. <A> This is a great time to upgrade to a better material. <S> Ikea's backboards are the cheapest thing they can possibly use. <A> After searching, I found this great tip for taking the nails out of the back of a Pax. <S> Worked like a charm. <S> And, for me, I used this tip before I took the board off so the board survived. <S> Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the nails up. <S> You can use a hammer to gently nudge the tip of the screwdriver under the nail head. <S> Then the board stays mostly in good shape and can be easily reused. <S> Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sedYDd30a5U
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You could use a variety of hardboards, luaun plywood (which you stain to suit first) or even a clear or translucent polycarbonate and backlight it.
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Should I use uncoupling membrane for tile on concrete floor? One flooring company said they would install an uncoupling membrane when installing tile over my 100-year-old basement laundry room's concrete floor. OIs there a good reason to do use a membrane? It strikes me as overkill. There are no cracks in the concrete, and I believe the concrete has been there for a long time. Our floor is painted, and we have zero moisture escaping from below per the plastic bag test. There are control joints through the room and they are uneven height, though not cracked. They'll be using a paste (not a true leveling compound) to even out and flatten the area. <Q> This is a subjective question that depends on individual risk tolerance. <S> I wouldn't bother. <S> My previous home was a similar situation, with several cracks and no expansion joints. <S> It was obvious that the basement was perpetually dry and the cracks stable. <S> (They probably occurred as a result of initial settling 50 years ago.) <S> I applied fiberglass mesh to the cracks with tile mortar and did the project. <S> 15 years later the floor looked just fine, with no sign of movement or cracking. <A> Yes. <S> It isn't expensive, but it can also reduce the amount of efflorescence that comes up through the tile and/or grout. <S> I have a basement bathroom where that wasn't done, and the natural stone tile is often covered with minerals that have worked there way up through the tile. <S> To treat the question more generally beyond the original poster, I'd consider it in two parts: <S> can there be benefits? <S> Of course. <S> I mention efflorescence, but it can also prevent crack propagation. <S> are there always benefits, or is it always necessary? <S> No, it sounds like there aren't benefits here for the original question. <S> Edited to add a picture of what I have on my tile floor, which I believe would be reduced had they used an isolation membrane, that would have also blocked moisture: <A> It most certainly doesn't mean that it will expand and contract at the exact same rate as the tiles. <S> The magnitude of the movement may be small, while the ratio is huge. <S> Concrete generally expands around ten times as much as ceramic, for example. <S> If your laundry room floor expands an imperceptible 0.125" the tile field will have barely moved. <S> I'll grant you that the opposite situation, tiles moving more than the substrate seems unlikely in your case. <S> A basement laundry room seems a poor location to have problems with solar expansion, and an unlikely candidate for moisture absorbing tiles. <S> There are quite a few factors involved, and it is entirely possible you won't have any issues. <S> I wouldn't immediately rule the membrane out as overkill though.
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The fact that your concrete has no cracks doesn't mean it doesn't contract and expand. Eventually the tiles will delaminate or the grout will crack. The moisture coming up through the concrete basement floor is a key component of efflorescence. Keep in mind that the substrate is only one side of the equation.
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Drilling a 1-1/8" hole in plastic with a Dremel Forgive me for being a complete beginner to this; I have a Dremel 3000 with the standard complement of attachments, and it's been useful to sand some items and brush up others. I have a piece of plastic in which I need to cut a 1-1/8" hole, preferably as accurately as possible. Can I do this with the Dremel, perhaps by buying another bit for it? I'm in the UK, if that helps with sourcing. In my research, I've been told that standard drill bits will probably not survive the higher RPMs of the Dremel. A suggestion has been to crudely cut a hole to size, and smooth it with the Dremel afterward. Is there a better way than the above, or am I somewhat stuck without buying a drill? <Q> If the exactness of 1.125" is not particularly required, you can go with the dremel, but if you need exactly that hole size (say, you're trying to minimize possible air leaks in something) <S> I'd say you need a drill. <S> Edit: I just realized you're using a dremel on plastic -- This will lead to bits of high static plastic everywhere . <S> In addition to that, whatever you cut will not have clean cuts, there will be melted plastic all the way around the edge. <S> I won't say this isn't an irreparable situation, but getting a drill probably is your best bet. <S> Aside from that, almost any home based project will be 100x easier with a drill. <S> It's one of the few tools even the least DIY people should have around the house. <A> If your requirements mean no additional purchases, about the best results may come from careful marking of your workpiece, a clear and accurate circle. <S> Consider even to glue paper or use masking tape to have a good marking surface. <S> With a drill bit chucked in the tool, create a hole near to one edge, but not engaging the marked line. <S> Create a number of these holes around the edge of the circle. <S> If one hole is too close to another, no worries, but keep it clear of the drawn circle. <S> Once you've created this ring of holes, use a burr bit to break the edges, allowing the center section to drop out. <S> If you have a burr bit with a long cutting portion (not just a ball or cone or other small shape), use that for faster removal and better control. <S> Keep the speed low, keep the tool square to the work. <S> You may find you have sufficient control to remove the outer edge of the "toothy" ring using the burr bit. <S> If not, switch to the sandpaper drum. <S> Again, keep the speed slow and the tool square. <S> Too much speed and/or too much pressure will melt the plastic. <S> If you have a piece of scrap on which to practice, you can get a better feel for the tool before you plunge in for the final attack. <S> I'll second the suggestion that a good quality cordless drill is a must-have for a DIYer. <S> Shoot for lithium based batteries (part of the advertising kit) and the highest voltage you can afford. <S> That's off-topic, however, so feel free to ignore this last opinion. <A> You're right, the Dremel is too fast. <S> Use any of the tools actually made for punching that hole. <S> One is a 1-1/8" hole saw, made for wood. <S> These need a normal (slower) drill such as a drill-driver. <S> Someone should make a 20:1 gear reduction for Dremels! <S> LOL! <S> src: <S> wikimedia <S> Another is a bevel drill, which lets you pick any of many sizes, again requiring a larger size, slower drill. <S> src: <S> wikimedia <S> Another is a punch, where you drill a pilot hole and then use a bolt to pull the punch halves together. <S> These are widely used by electricians for conduit; the standard sizes they use are 13/16, 1-1/16 and 1-5/16, if that's helpful. <S> src <A> FYIYou are NOT limited to .125 (1/8) bits. <S> Micro drills for PCP and CNC work are available in larger size and come with the .125 <S> : shank, but <S> no, the large hole referred to in the original post is certainly not available. <S> If it were, I would like to see it being used in a Dremel tool!!!
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While this can be done with a Dremel (I've done it), you'll get a much better result picking up a paddle bit or hole saw and a hand drill.
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Does shear strength increase with the number of fasteners? Let's say I have screws with 1,000 lbs shear strength. If I add more screws, does the total shear strength of the joint increase? If I use 3 screws, then put a 2,000 lbs shear load on the joint, will all the fasteners fail? I guess I should have been more clear, as most answers seem to be overly focused on the materials being fastened. The point of this question was to focus on the shear strength of the screws themselves. You can assume the materials being fastened are stronger than the screws, the holes are perfectly spaced, and are properly sized for the fasteners. For purposes of this question, the fastened materials will never fail before the screws. <Q> If you have a single screw with that level of shear strength, it will also have minimum distance specifications for the material in which it is used. <S> As an example, a fastener of 12 mm diameter should be placed no closer than 6 mm from the edge of the material. <S> Regarding spacing relative to one another, the material used is a factor as well as many other characteristics such as fastener diameter and material. <S> I found an interesting brief in PDF form here: fastener spacing which opens directly into the PDF or a download window. <S> It references spacing specific to wood trusses and fasteners and also takes into consideration wood grain. <S> There's an astonishing calculator located fastener calculator which uses a formula far beyond my comprehension: <S> In the PDF link, it is suggested for the reader to enlist the services of an engineer. <S> If you are using loads of one to two thousand pounds, that might be a good idea. <S> On the other hand, if you are building something without an inherent catastrophe in case of failure, build it and learn. <S> I wouldn't construct a bridge across which I would drive the family vehicle, but I might consider a bridge across a gully for a golf cart or similar transport. <S> A single bolt in a tight hole with two others in loose or misaligned holes will not be optimum and could fail prematurely. <A> Maybe I am missing the point to your question based on the other answers. <S> My understanding of fasteners is shear strength is perpendicular to the axis of the fastener. <S> E.g. <S> A wall anchor holding a panel on the wall. <S> The load is perpendicular to the fastener and is attempting to shear it in half. <S> Whereas tensile strenth is parallel to the fastener attempting to pull it out. <S> So, I would say the shear strength adds up. <S> If you have 3 screws good for 1000 lbs each and they are distributing the 2000 lb load evenly then the point load on each fastener will be less than its rating. <S> So, the load stays in place. <S> I don't have a formula for this though. <S> They said there wouldn't be any math on this test. <A> The question as clarified can be viewed as the amount of metal in the cross sections of the fasteners. <S> The total combined cross sectional area of all the fasteners can be divided up however you want. <S> It isn't exactly the same because the metal isn't uniform throughout and there is variability between screws, but that is essentially the model. <S> In this downloadable spec sheet , there is some discussion, and charts where you can compare shear strength to cross section and see the relationship. <S> Additional discussion can be found in this downloadable reference . <S> It's slightly more complicated than that, though. <S> It looked at some established formulas for predicting shear strength based on fastener material. <S> It concluded that while shear strength is generally proportional to the number of screws, the formulas overestimated capacity by a small amount when the number of fasteners for the connection exceeded seven screws in low and normal ductility steels. <S> Apparently, beyond seven fasteners, the cumulative effect of extraneous factors and statistical variations become significant. <S> They calculated a correction factor: the estimated composite shear strength should be multiplied by a factor of 0.85 for connections with more than seven screws. <S> So in your example, three screws each with 1,000 lb. <S> shear strength will have a combined shear strength of 3,000 lbs. <S> and support a 2,000 lb. <S> load. <A> Wow, Fred's answer is complicated and I'm not sure I understand it... <S> and I'm suppose to... <S> Yes, the more the better...up to a point. <S> In general for bolts, nails and screws we worry about 1) size of fastener, 2) edge distance, 3) <S> spacing between fasteners, 4 <S> ) embedment, 5) size (thickness) and type (species) of material being fastened, and 6) <S> If the material is in single shear or double shear. <S> In order to "develop full strength" I'd use the following:A.) <S> Bolts: a) edge distance perpendicular to grain loading = <S> 4 times bolt diameter, b) edge distance parallel to grain = <S> 1.5 times bolt diameter. <S> c) center to center spacing perpendicular and parallel to grain <S> = 4 times bolt diameter. <S> B.) Screws and nails: <S> The code allows spacing down to 2" apart for SHEAR on plywood, (which is your question, right?) <S> (See IBC Table 2306.3.2.) <S> However, I've seen 2x material split at that spacing, then you have no value. <S> That's why we use 3x material around garage door openings and stagger the nails. <S> Where I live, we use a lot of Doug. <S> Fir-Larch for structural material. <S> Pine, Hemlock and other softer materials will have the same edge distances, spacing, etc. <S> but carry less. <S> I'd use local Building Code tables (Chapter 23) for maximum loading capabilities.
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There was a study of the shear strength of a connection for various numbers of fasteners of different types, which can be downloaded here . Generally, if you have the spacing for three bolts, it will be stronger than one, if there is no slop or play or similar poor construction. One big screw or a dozen small screws with the same total cross sectional area will have approximately the same combined shear strength.
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How to clean rusty grill grates? Accidentally left grill grates outside during the winter and rust built up. Tried to search online and ask at Lowe's, but didn't find a good solution. What worked for you? <Q> Put them in the grill and get them HOT! <S> Then use a wire brush and scrub the scale and rust off. <S> After that I usually coat them with olive oil but any cooking oil will work. <A> Soak them overnight in vinegar. <S> It works like magic to remove rust. <S> Afterwards rub them with oil or they will get rusty again. <A> Excellent electrolysis results: <S> You need: One rusty grill grate. <S> A plastic container. <S> Some DC power source. <S> An iron plate (NB pure iron, NOT stainless steel!). <S> Sodium hydroxide, NaOH (alternatively sodium carbonate, Na2CO3). <S> Rubber gloves. <S> Instructions: <S> Put the grill grate inside the container making sure that it is not lying flat on the bottom but have room for fluid to move under it, place some stands under it if needed. <S> Place non-conducting thin spacers on top of the grill grate and put the iron plate on top of that (e.g. parallel but not touching). <S> Connect correct electrical wires to each of the grate and the plate. <S> Put on the gloves <S> (safety glasses are also a very good idea), mix sodium hydroxide and water in a bucket (warm water dissolves more quickly), and pour the liquid into the container, repeat if needed until fully covered. <S> Turn on the power source, it should start to bubble a little <S> and you see rust being generated. <S> Let it stay until done. <S> You might need to clean the iron plate from time to time (although if you do not the process only goes slower). <S> When done, take out the grill grate, dry it and brush it with a wire brush and enjoy your almost as good as new grill grate. <S> The above is just the general instructions, look up a couple of the hundreds of tutorials on rust removal electrolysis available on the internet for details. <S> From the pictures you see that I got hold of a quite large iron plate. <S> It is not strictly needed to have one that fully covers the grill grate, but it willensure even coverage (with uneven coverage just move the anode around over time or just let it run longer). <S> Concrete reinforcing rods are an alternative. <S> Using graphite instead of iron as the anode is a better solution as it avoids making the liquid so messy, but I have not tried it. <S> The waste from this should be safe and non toxic, but check with your local authorities for disposal. <S> And again no stainless steel! <S> Also avoid copper wires inside the solution. <A> The most reasonable low-labor suggestion for a homeowner is an angle grinder with a wire cup. <S> It's a moderately priced tool that will likely be useful for something else down the road. <S> However it involves an electrical source, water, and home-made wiring so you should be somewhat comfortable with basic concepts of electricity before employing google-fu. <A> Squeeze lemon juice onto the grates, salt them with coarse salt, and then use a half lemon like a scrub brush. <S> It's kind of a combination of the vinegar (acid) + wire brush (abrasive), with inherently food-safe stuff. <A> Use Evaporust. <S> Non toxic and amazing. <A> Wad up a sheet of aluminum foil and scrub the grate.
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Just as another option, you can use lemon juice and salt as a scouring scrub for the rust (this is a technique borrowed from cast-iron skillet maintenance) that is (obviously) food-safe. A no labor solution is electrolysis, which will pull the rust off.
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Running wire to ceiling with double joist parallel to wall I'm finishing my basement, done the framing and starting wiring for lights. One wall runs parallel to the joists, and has a double joist (two 2x8) above the top plate (the wall is right next to the stairs, running between several existing posts). I want to put the light switches on this wall, but I'm not sure how best to run the wires. I can't just bore a hole straight up through the top plate due to the joists. Is it code to run the wires around the top plate? I am planning to install crown moldings, would those suffice to protect the wires? I could notch the top plate, but the wires will need to go around the joist face. Alternatively I can run the wires to through the wall and then back to an adjacent wall and run to the ceiling from there. However, there is a 4x4 post in the corner between these two walls. Can I bore two perpendicular holes through that post to allow me to run the wire at the 90 degree angle? Edit: Here is a rough schematic of the situation. The two walls are shown, with red marking the existing posts. The wall that runs between the posts is the wall that has the double joists on the top header. The desired location for the switch is in blue: Edit 2: Here are a couple of pictures. The joists are painted black, so they're kinda hard to see, but the wall with the box in it has the joists running on top of it: And this is the corner (with the 4x4 post between the walls): Edit 3: Would it be possible to notch the first joist, drill through the top plate close to that joist, run the wire through the gap and protect it with a nail plate? As far as I can measure the joist is 15' long, and this falls just under 5' from the edge, so should be outside of the middle 1/3 span. Is there any requirement for the height of the wire on the side of the joist? <Q> After explaining this to the AHJ, he proposed running NM in conduit around the back side of the wall. <S> This took some creative bending (me being a first time conduit bender, at least), but the end result is solid and passed rough electrical inspection: <A> Raceway exists for a reason <S> These types of problems are why we have raceway systems we can run on wall surfaces, or inside a wall for a ways then have pop out of the wall. <S> So, instead of running NM and using a cheapie plastic NM-only box, run EMT or surface raceway for the switch loop <S> (and just the switch loop, you can stop at the ceiling box and transition to NM for the rest of the circuit there) instead. <S> With some finish work, and some black paint appropriate for galvanized steel, I'm sure you can give it just that little industrial touch. <S> Of course, this means you need to use a metal box for the switches, but that's no big deal, right? <A> Can the wires run on the opposite side of the joists than the finished wall? <S> If not I think you are going to have to build a small "box" in the corner to bring the wires down into the wall.
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With the EMT option, some cleverness with a conduit bender could even get you to sweep 45deg out of the wall down a little ways from the molding then 45deg as it enters the ceiling finish.
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What is the proper way to start sheathing an exterior wall? On new construction, what is the proper way to install the exterior OSB wall sheathing? Should I go for a perfectly level sheet install, and then level each corresponding sheet or is it better to just follow the edge of the sill plate and end up with potentially non-level panels due to the foundation not being floated perfectly? I have also considered snapping a chalk line after measuring 47 and 3/4" from the sill plate on each end of the house, but that chalk line would be extremely long and would vary too much in that span. I am trying to maintain: An even 1/8" gap between each sheet The same height of sheet as the next one to prevent unequal gaps on the 2nd row of sheeting, and Keep the sheathing flush with the bottom of the sill plate so it ties into the sill plate nicely with the edge nailing pattern. This has amounted to nothing but frustration and curse words. <Q> The code allows 3 basic configuration: 1) Configuration 1: long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course staggered <S> 1/2 panel LENGTH, 2) Category 2: long edge of panels installed horizontally and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 width of SHORT edge, and <S> 3) Category 6 (I know, stupid numbering system, but Categories 3, 4 and 5 are just for loading from opposite direction.) <S> Long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course NOT staggered. <S> Most installations are Category 1, but the critical criteria in all categories is that the panels MUST fully meet (lap) <S> the sill plate, both top plates and 1/2 of stud at ends. <S> (Please stagger nailing into studs where the panels end, to avoid splitting of stud.) <S> This doesn't tell you HOW to do it, but I hope it tells you WHAT you need to do... <S> and I think your question was asking HOW... <S> By the way, if you are using staples, the crown must be PARALLEL to the long dimension of the supports. <A> If you do that, you can align your sheathing to the wall however is most convenient. <S> Here I assume that you've snapped lines on the deck to set the wall plate on after it's sheathed and erected. <S> Straighten the wall. <S> Position the wall precisely on the position line, both in-out and endwise. <S> Secure the bottom plate. <S> Use 8d or similar nails and, from the inside of the stud bays <S> *, tack the bottom plate to the deck at intervals adequate to straighten and retain the plate position. <S> Doing so inside the stud bays allows you to easily remove those nails after the wall is erected. <S> Otherwise they're inaccessible and can hold the wall off the deck. <S> Square the wall by taking diagonal measurements from bottom left to top right and vice-versa. <S> Shift the top plate until the dimensions match. <S> Tack the top plat in position from the top of the top plates <S> so the nail can be removed before erecting the wall. <S> Set the first sheet. <S> Determine the top location for your sheathing. <S> Often this is simply the center of the double top plate for vertical installation. <S> Set your first sheet (at any sensible location) at that top position and aligned with the center of a stud layout. <S> Set all remaining sheets at the top and gapped 1/8" at the sides. <S> Erect the wall. <S> A poorly-constructed foundation can leave gaps under the wall where low spots occur. <S> Make repairs to level the floor, or shim these as needed under each stud. <S> This results in a wall that's not dependent on your floor's flatness or sheathing position accuracy for squareness and straightness. <S> Obviously squareness directly affects plumb in adjacent walls, and straightness issues translate to fascias, second floors, etc. <S> If your walls are already erected, I'd install sheathing vertically and set to the top plates as above, or use spacers and simply stand them on your foundation with a gap. <S> The walls are what they are and how you sheath them isn't critical to much else as long as the sheathing is fastened and blocked properly. <A> Plywood has a strength axis which is horizontal. <S> The application is stronger also because the span is 16 or 24" compared to the wall height ( assuming no blocking is used ) <S> Inspector JeffICC/FL/SC licensed combination building inspector and building designer
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The key is squaring your wall very carefully before you begin.
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Are there any QO boxes with the neutral screws along the breakers like the Homeline? I am having my panel replaced with a panel that has more real estate as well as having my Knob and Tube replaced. Currently I have an older 24 Circuit/Spot Square D QO box. I would like to reuse some of the newer breakers in this box in the new box. I would like to go with Square D again as from what I have read their reputation is very good and I like the plug on neutral. I have read the QO boxes are more the Cadillac of boxes and the Homelines are not as good. The issue I see though is, the Homeline boxes have the screw terminal for the neutral bus along the height of the box next to the breakers. This seems like a great feature for wire management and trace-ability. The other advantage I see with this neutral bus is that circuit can easily be switched to CAFI as the neutral is already there and can just be moved to the breaker without having to splice the shortened neutral at the top neutral bus and extend it down. The one feature I have seen in the QO line is the Qwik Grip. Again this seems like an amazing feature for adding circuits and manageability. My question is:Are there any QO boxes out there that have the neutral screws along the breakers like the Homeline?From any experience, is having the neutral bus run along the breakers an advantage as I mentioned above? Can anyone point me to a QO box with Qwik Grip and neutral bus along the breakers? <Q> As it turns out, you can get what you want, but it's an extra piece <S> The QO and Homeline loadcenters use different designs for their plug-on neutrals. <S> The QO design has the screw terminals up against the mains while the neutral busbar extending down the breakers is plug-on only, while the Homeline plug-on neutral bars provide screw holes along their length. <S> Furthermore, the QO's bigger brother (the NQ) doesn't have any support for plug-on neutrals at all (this limits you to 60 slots, vs the 84 available in NQ). <S> However, someone at Square-D was thoughtful, because they make what are called neutral extension kits for the QO loadcenter line. <S> You'll need to order these from a supply house that stocks Square-D stuff <S> (part numbers are QONK1 through QONK4 depending on how long you want the extension bars to be), but if you can get one of these kits in, this will give you something close to what you want, with extra neutral bars running alongside the breakers in the gutter. <A> There are endless configurations of boxes, both QO and Homeline. <S> The usual problem is people shopping at a big-box store and being stuck with their joke of a selection. <S> Go to a real electrical supply house that frontlines Square D, they will be able to set you up with whatever you want. <S> Eaton has done the same thing with their lines: CH (former Cutler Hammer) is their Cadillac, and BR (former Bryant) is their tenant grade cheapie. <S> That doesn't always buy you better though, I had a Square D dealer show me how some Homeline breakers are simply the QO breakers in a larger case. <S> Now the problem with both their Cadillacs is they are 3/4" wide breakers. <S> And this just makes it technically more difficult to cram an AFCI, GFCI or other complex breaker into such a small space. <S> That makes them rather more expensive. <S> If cost is a factor, you might want to price the entire package of things you're buying now and things you intend to buy later. <S> There are other manufacturers. <S> Naturally the ones prominent on the bottom shelf of big-box are the tenant grade cheapies. <S> There are pro-grade panels too, but for any selection you'll need a real electrical supply. <S> In my search for pro-grade, reasonably available, and sensibly priced specialty breakers -- I keep hearing the name "Siemens". <S> Nothing says you need to trash your old panel. <S> You can keep it and make it a subpanel. <S> Depending on your wiring topology, you might not even need to move it! <A> QO breakers will not fit in a Homeline panel nd ceiling versa. <S> Good luck!
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QO breaker panels are available with plug on neutral bars so you can add a GFCI AFCI breaker without a pigtail.
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20 amp circuit and GFCI outlets everywhere Except for money saving is there any reason why you would not put 20 amp wiring and 20 amp GFCI receptacle (=1 per circuit) everywhere? <Q> It's wasteful. <S> I realize that most folks think with their wallets and not much further, but #12 wire contains 59% more copper than #14 ( source ). <S> That's (nominally) 59% more energy wasted and pollution created in mining, 59% more chemical pollution from refinement, and 59% more weight to lug around as you work. <S> It's also much less pleasant to work with in a box, and fills boxes and nuts much quicker in terms of legal capacities. <A> Using 12AWG everywhere is exactly what I do. <S> Grabbing the wrong spool and inadvertently doing unsafe work, etc. <S> And for what? <S> So you can have more nuisance trips, and prevent people from using 20A appliances? <S> Oh, there's another neat trick I can do. <S> If I have to cram more than 9 wires into a conduit, I can just do it , and use 15A breakers to comply with the conduit fill rules. <S> Other than that I don't stock 15A breakers. <S> As far as GFCI outlets everywhere, just use one GFCI per circuit, using the LOAD terminals correctly. <S> For circuits where you don't want load <S> X knocking out load Y <S> , it's fine to split the circuit before the "LINE" terminals, so you have two GFCIs protecting two separate zones on the same circuit. <S> Just don't wire them nose to tail or <S> you'll play a "Yo Dawg" joke on yourself. <A> Is there a reason not to use 12 other than cost. <S> Waste has been raised as a possibility. <S> I have found the need to replace a lot of #14 wire in the past but rarely need to replace #12 an AC unit is the one place that I have needed to upgrade #12. <S> I have wired several homes with #10 (what the owner specified). <S> To try and answer the question I would say wiring with all # 12 and not using 14 is fine and done on many high end homes as a selling feature. <S> To answer the GFCI question only 1 is needed to protect the entire circuit, <S> Since the question has been updated I will add that multiple GFCI's can cause false trips especially when testing a device that is fed from a GFCI. <A> It seems you have poked a hornet's nest. <S> I use and advocate 20 amp circuits for receptacles and 15 amps for lighting. <S> Recently, with LED lighting, lighting circuits draw much less than they used to. <S> 15 amps is usually plenty. <S> 20 amp receptacles are not required on 20 amp circuits unless you have a very high current draw piece of equipment. <S> The only cost difference is the wire. <S> As others have said #12 solid is more difficult to work with in switch boxes <S> but it is worth it for receptacle circuits because of the extra ampacity.
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As far as waste of materials, the real waste would be owning twice as many spools of wire, everything in two sizes, the money tied up, the wire just sitting around, all that manufacturing totally unnecessary. multiple GFCI'S may cause false trips I have seen this more than a few times.
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No water from certain taps I do not have either cold or hot water from my tap in the kitchen and the one in the bathroom. The shower and the tub both have water but these two have nothing .... possibly an airlock? tried my thumb over it but heard that if your tank has a check valve or something like that that this method will not work? Also don't think I can get a good seal from my thumb over the nozzle? Tried blocking in the water underneath sink and opening it again with no luck. I had just finished draining my hot water tank and flushing the sludge out of it and don't think we purged the air correctly? Now no hot or cold from only those locations .... <Q> I'm assuming your sinks both do. <S> This coupled with the note that you indicated you just drained sludge from your hot water tank <S> leads me to believe you are on well water or hard water, or at least, potentially untreated water. <S> I would suggest removing the aerator on whichever sink is easy to remove on and then try it. <S> I have seen in my mother in laws house an aerator so plugged that it didn't even allow a drop of water out. <S> Since you disturbed sediment in the tank, it likely set larger pieces free and thus clogged the aerator. <S> You can usually separate the screens in an aerator and clean them and the plastic diverter/distributor parts and reuse them. <S> Eventually its easier to just replace them, they can be had at any local hardware store for a nominal price. <S> Bring yours with you if this is the case because they have different thread types and sizes and depth. <S> In the future, when you clear sludge from the tank, run the tub for a good while before trying the sinks. <S> Also, it is possible to plug toilet lines with sludge as well. <A> Sometimes the junk in the bottom of the tank will mix with the water and flow to the smaller shut off valves and plug them. <S> Take the line off the discharge end of the valve and see if water comes out when the valve opens. <S> If no water comes out or the flow is reduced, you may need to replace the valve or if you are not sure you can do this, you may need to call a plumber. <S> Also, the other guys Ideas are worth trying since anything could be a possible fix. <S> Flushing out hot water tanks almost always causes a lot of water flow problems in valves and small piping. <A> I just fixed this problem by turning off main, opening all faucets and tubs, letting all run dry, turning on the main, letting all water run a minute, then closing each faucet and tub one by one. <S> By the time I got to the one that hadn’t worked, water was shooting out like normal. <S> Must have been an air bubble. <A> I just fixed a similar problem using a technique that our plumber used when we had this problem a few years ago. <S> He borrowed our Vax Wet vacuum cleaner, sealed the tube to the tap and then sucked the air lock through. <S> You need to get a fairly good seal - we used a wet cloth, clamped using hands. <S> It took a minute or two to suck the air through.
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Without being there to see the problem its hard to give a sure fire "here's the problem answer" but Tubs do not have aerators.
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Can I "flip" a light switch (top/bottom position) I have a Decora 3 way switch, on the metal part it clearly label one side as the top. It is installed correctly right now. So right now, if both switches are on the "off" (down) position, the light is on. Functionally there is nothing wrong about it, but the positioning just looks weird to me. Can I just flip the switch myself (as in, keep all the wire in place, and simply rotate the switch by 180 degree)? I don't know if switch must be install according to the "top" position. <Q> Some kinds of "quiet" switches have mercury-wetted contacts and must not be installed upside-down. <S> If the manufacturer went to the trouble of putting a "top" label on the switch then it probably is one of that type. <S> You should interchange the travelers. <S> Identify the common wire on the switch, then disconnect, swap, and reconnect the other two wires. <S> Don't interchange the travelers on both switches, or you will get your original functionality back. <S> BTW you really should think this through before altering anything. <S> If you change the action of one switch, you will create the situation where one switch is up and one switch is down when the lights are on, both switches are down or both switches are up when the lights are off . <S> I can't see how this is any kind of aesthetic improvement. <A> only lights controlled by one switch will have a true on/off, top and bottom. <S> the nature of multiple switches means that you can switch a light on/off from different locations. <S> flipping a switch over will not change the fact that the light can also be controlled at another location. <S> the way you presently described your switches, both up (on) and <S> your light off is common. <S> the next time you use one it will be backwards again. <S> if you want the switch to look right all the time only use one, then you lose the convenience of having multiple switching locations. <A> Short answer is: yes <S> Put the switches in any position that you like. <S> Since they are 3-ways <S> their position is irrelevant. <S> Except..... <S> my OCD requires me to wire them so that they are both in the down or "off" position when the light is off not on. <S> So, I understand what you are saying and wholeheartedly concur. <S> Edit <S> [ AI has a good point and the easiest way to do this <S> is to swap the travelers on one switch. ] <S> Good luck and stay safe! <A> Having a wife that has some extreme OCD issues the only way I found to have the switches always in the correct position <S> is to purchase digitally controlled switches like the lutron maestro <S> there is 1 controller and 1 remote (or more remotes) tap the top of the switch from either location <S> and they turn on (mine are also dimmers) <S> tap the bottom they turn off, hold the bottom in for a second and they slowly dimm to off in 10 seconds. <S> These are a little expensive <S> but I think I have had to buy 5 sets of these. <S> 3 in my last house and 2 in my current home. <S> but I always know what is in the cupboards arranged by type with every label facing forward.
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if you flip one switch up to turn the light off and then go to the other switch and flip up to turn the light back on, then both switches will look the way you want. If you insist on changing the on-off operation of a three-way switch, you should not move the physical device.
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transition between hardwood plank and molding on stairs I just got hardwood stairs installed. [The installer left a gap between the end of the hardwood plank and the molding and filled it with putty—and it looks terrible.][3] What can I do to cover that gap? I hate it. <Q> Maybe a stained or painted quarter round or some sort of small fancy, decorative moulding. <A> Depending on environmental conditions, the wood may expand and contract with the moisture in the air, so the gap is useful. <S> An alternative is to find some wood coloured decorators caulk and apply a small bead in the gap. <S> You should be able to match it to the hardwood used on the stairs. <S> This will be flexible and provide a consistent finish down the flight of stairs (as long as you apply it neatly...). <A> That's a pre finished engineered, very stable. <S> He should have pre glues planks together to make full size treads and risers. <S> Then each step can be templeted. <S> Then each tread and riser get glued in and blind nail. <S> I full spread glue mine on but a nice serpentine of construction adhesive works too. <S> They look awful, be sure to get him back out.
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Decorative moulding is one option, though you may have difficulty making it look good as it curves around the nosing.
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Should my security cameras be raised up under the soffit for weather protection? I installed 2 outdoor security cameras. But now that I've look at them, I wonder if I should move them under up higher to where the roof meets the wall in order to shield them from the elements. I've attached pictures. Thanks for the help. <Q> If those cameras are rated for outdoor, then I wouldn't worry about shielding them from the elements. <S> I would focus instead on capturing an appropriate image. <S> Place them where you feel they will get the picture that you need. <S> If those cameras are NOT outdoor rated, I would recommend getting an outdoor rated camera. <S> Most people are quick to buy a DIY camera kit but in my experience most of those systems are garbage. <S> If you want to be able to actually make out someones face, then you need to get a very high resolution camera. <S> Most of the people I know have 720p cameras which are good for seeing that something is happening, but not great for picking out fine details like license plate numbers. <S> 1080p Is generally a good bet but for my front door, I use a 1440p camera. <S> When I check on it remotely, I can literally see the ants on the ground in front of my house. <S> I also get EXTREMELY clear images of the solicitors and others that come to my door. <S> If you want some recommendations, please let me know. <A> Look like <S> the cameras are outdoor-rated and it's okay at this height as long as you or anyone can't easily grab this and pull it off. <S> Installing security cameras up a bit helps reduce impact and risks from elements and potential grab-and-take. <S> It's clearly a bullet-shaped camera, moving it a bit higher won't cut down its monitoring areas significantly. <S> My suggestion is to place it beyond reach and make sure the cameras cover the areas that you initially intend to cover. <A> It all depends on the camera itself. <S> If it's marked up as an outdoor camera then in most cases they are capable of being directly exposed. <S> The more coverage that can be provided, the longer they could theoretically last - but this is essentially the same as saying that if you leave it in the box it'll never go bad. <S> They're fine where they are if they are 'outdoor' cameras. <A>
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It seems like these cameras are rated for outdoor, so it's okay.
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