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Unable to remove a cross-threaded water hose I am unable to remove my outdoor hose from the spigot faucet and think it may be cross-threaded. I am using a pipe wrench but the entire fitting just keeps turning. Do I need a plumber to remove it? ** IMPORTANT UPDATE:In order to prevent a DIY disaster, I had a plumber come out who immediately recommended replacing the entire pipe, valve and spigot at a cost of $175. Having received OUTSTANDING recommendations and informative comments from StackExchange contributors, I asked him to first attempt to use a dremel to cut a notch above the back-flow preventor pin on the hose bibb, and if necessary, slice the collar to peel it back at a cost of $75. This method took him 20 minutes, was totally successful, and saved me $100! When finished, he inspected the cut pieces and informed me that the issue preventing removal of the hose was not due to cross-threading or stripped thread; but rather, the use of a hose connector made of aluminum on a brass hose bibb which causes corrosion due to dissimilar metals. ** PLUMBING 101: NEVER USE DISSIMILAR METAL FITTINGS ON PARTS INTENDED FOR FUTURE REMOVAL !! I have replaced the hose with one that has a brass fitting ;) <Q> That's not a quick-disconnect. <S> That is a backflow prevention device (aka vacuum breaker) between the faucet and the hose. <S> It prevents your hose from becoming a water inlet point and introducing non-potable water into the municipal water system. <S> An example of how that would happen is if a firetruck connects to your fire hydrant by your house and turns their water pump on and they suck more water out of the water main than it can supply. <S> That causes a vacuum (negative pressure) in the water line and opening a kitchen faucet will just introduce air into the water main, but a garden hose that doesn't have one of these can introduce mud/fertilizer/pond water/etc. <S> Other things can cause water to backflow, but that's the best example I can think of. <S> If your garden hose fitting is completely stuck, then I think it would be the next easiest to remove the backflow prevention device and replace it. <S> That is a set screw, but the set screw is designed to break off after tightening it to prevent a homeowner from inadvertently removing the device which would be against code in many places. <S> The way to remove it is to grind a notch with a dremel tool in the top of the set screw, and then use a flat head screwdriver to back out the set screw. <S> If you remove the set screw and it still doesn't come off, then you'll probably need to replace the entire valve. <S> But if you're trying to avoid calling a plumber, the final thing I would try is grinding a vertical notch through either the entire backflow device or the entire garden hose fitting and literally split it apart into two pieces off of the threads. <S> It might not work, but if you already have the dremel tool out it's worth a try. <S> They're both made of brass, so it's soft and easy to cut with a hacksaw if that's all you have available too! <S> 3/4" Vacuum Breaker, Brass, FNPT Connection Type <A> I think that's a quick-disconnect. <S> The male fitting is permanently attached to the faucet, and the gold-colored aluminum part disconnects by pulling (sliding) the collar away from the faucet. <S> I think. <A> The "fitting" on the hose that is turning is just a cover. <S> You can probably just cut the cover off, and then turn the actual fitting inside. <S> However, your best bet is to remove the backflow preventer as Jeff has recommended, and install a new one. <S> If the hose is cross-threaded, then you've probably got damaged threads on the backflow preventer and will likely have to replace it anyway.
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It is very possible that you damaged the threads of your hose fitting by trying to unscrew this device without removing the set screw.
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Freeze prevention in garage My garage is below a heated room, and there are heating pipes running through the garage to heat that room. In the recent incredibly cold spell in New England, one of those pipes froze and burst. I have lived in this house for 30 years, and this is the first time I've had a problem; now I have to figure out the correct solution. My plumber tells me that the pipes can't reasonably be moved anywhere better. They do have pipe insulation on them (though due to my own stupidity the insulation on the place that burst had fallen off and I hadn't replaced it.) The garage is about 17'x17'; there is an adjoining room as well that is about 13'x12'. The house itself is heated with gas forced hot water. The garage has an old large radiator in it that is part of the basement zone; several years ago I put insulation over that radiator, as the basement zone rarely fires (it stays pretty warm down there due to the boiler itself). In addition to better pipe insulation (which again my plumber tells me is insufficient), I see two reasonable solutions: replumb the radiator in the garage to be on its own zone and set it to some really low temperature, or purchase an electric wall-mounted heater to heat the garage, again to some low temperature. Which of those is preferable (or is there another solution I'm missing)? Clearly this is (at least historically) a pretty rare issue for me, so I don't need or want a high-end solution, but it was sufficiently unpleasant that I would like to address it. <Q> Your plumber seems to be poorly educated if you are left without the following solutions having been mentioned. <S> This is pretty standard problem for folks with a boiler AND a woodstove - the woodstove keeps the house warm and the boiler pipes are subject to freezing off in the corners of the house. <S> Not that this is your situation, but a "standard" solution to "pipes running in a cold space" exists. <S> The standard solution is a timer that circulates the boiler water every so often (a more sophisticated one could take input from an outside temperature sensor to influence how often) whether or not there's a call for heat. <S> In combination with insulation, that will keep the pipes from freezing. <S> There are other possible solutions (that don't involve heating the garage if you don't want to heat it), the most obvious of which is to replace the heating system water with non-toxic antifreeze. <S> Heat tape (on the pipe, under the insulation) would be another option, but is frankly fussy and can be unreliable. <S> A final possible influence - if you use a "setback" thermostat or you manually turn the heat down at night - don't do that in very cold weather. <S> It makes for a long "off" time before the first call for heat after turn-down, and that's when things tend to freeze. <S> When it turned very cold here, I set my thermostat to "hold" and left it there. <A> I think you answered your own question: They do have pipe insulation on them (though due to my own stupidity the insulation on the place that burst had fallen off <S> and I hadn't replaced it.) <S> The pipe insulation on the rest of the system worked as it should. <S> The only reported failure was where there was not insulation. <S> This suggests to me that the insulation was indeed working as it should have and the solution is to replace and maintain that insulation. <A> Another avenue to look at (combined with other things) is improving the insulation in the garage as much as feasible. <S> Is the door insulated? <S> Are the outer walls? <S> Fix drafty windows, etc. <S> Avoid opening the door in extreme cold if you can. <S> All of this is good for the overall energy consumption for the house anyway. <A> not sure you can use it, ask a plumber, but maybe adding some anti-freeze to the water could help? <S> also if you consider heating the garage with electricity you might remove the pipes and heat the room above the garage with electricity instead. <A> I like Ecnerwal's answer. <S> Also, consider heat tape, or electric heat cable kit (home depot, etc.) <A> When it is very cold outside, why not run the basement zone which includes the garage and turn off the basement radiator, this way you could still heat the garage just enough to keep the heating pipes in the garage area from freezing?
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I think the quick and easy fix is to go the electric heater route in the garage, which would give you independent control over that room, so if the rest of the house heat is turned down, the pipes in your garage won't freeze.
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Is it normal for my boiler transformer to show intermittent drops in voltage? Since I installed a Nest-E I've seen my Weil-McLain boiler cut power to the R-wire and C-wire intermittently. Voltage drops to nearly 0 and the Nest-E errors with E-195 no power. Other times thermostat works fine to control heat. I'm trying to figure out if the transformer is bad or if the Nest is just not a good fit for this system. How do I know if the transformer is going kaput? <Q> The voltage drop I saw was due to the triggering of the low water cut off system. <S> When the LWCO kicked on it dropped power to the thermostat. <S> Thank you for the tip @ThreePhaseEel ! <S> Gotta get some of those leaky radiators fixed. <S> As a side-note, the Ecobee handles the power drop better than the Nest. <S> I tried two different Nest-E units and they both read 5-6 degree lower ambient temps while recovering from the power drop. <S> The Ecobee stayed constant. <A> If it is severing the R wire in response to a limit situation, that means the furnace's wiring is not compatible with the Nest. <S> The furnace is designed to have a simple mercury make-or-break 'stat. <S> Interlocks are also make-or-break, so your furnace has simply placed them all in series without caring about sequence . <S> As a result, some of those interlocks are interrupting the R line when they should be interrupting the W line. <S> Now, if your system also had air conditioning or auxiliary heat stages, they would also be shut off by an interlock that severs the R line. <S> Study the system carefully to see if that is intentional/desired . <S> If it is not, the furnace should be rewired so those R-line interlocks instead interrupt the W line, and nothing interrupts R. <S> That will make it compatible with the Nest. <S> If C is being interrupted, them you got C from the wrong place. <A> I suspect that you have a loose connection somewhere that is making and breaking intermittently.
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The transformer typically will either work or will not.
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Rotating fitting for copper/steampunk faucet? I'm trying to build an exposed copper (think steampunk) kitchen faucet. Everything is easy except the ability to rotate the faucet side to side, like to reach the left sink or right sink. See the image below. This one does not rotate left and right. How could one make it rotate (and not leak of course)? Ordinary "swivel" fittings/couplings only swivel until they are tight. Once tight they cannot be rotated easily by hand. And if they're not tight, they leak. Thanks! <Q> I would try to use a push to connect fittings such as shark bite . <S> You could have a male threaded connection coming out of the Copper tee and a shark bite fitting with the female threads on one side attached to that which would allow you to rotate the outlet pipe back-and-forth. <S> I don’t know what the long-term affects would be on the rubber <S> o ring inside <S> The fitting by having it swivel back-and-forth. <S> It’s worth a shot as the water supply would not be constant inside the fitting because the faucet handles will be off most of the time and if it develops leak you can replace it with another one easily. <S> EDIT: <S> After poking around on the world wide inter-tubes i found these rotary unions <S> i think they would work great. <A> If you want it "in that style" I think you'll be faced with making it. <S> Generically, you typically want something that's either sealed with an o-ring captured in a groove, or with packing captured by a nut. <S> There are many swivel fittings in the marketplace that swivel without leaking, though they are are probably more common in compressed air service than in water, where the typical thing that swivels is a kitchen sink faucet and most folks simply purchase one of those. <S> A garden-hose swivel might also be found, with or without a quick-disconnect feature. <S> Those are typically designed to thread onto standard faucet and/or hose threads, so you'll have to modify them to use on copper tubing. <S> You may be able to find plain brass rather than chrome-plated parts, if you search. <A> Use an anti-twist brass swivel joint like you would use in a pressure washer hose to handle connection. <S> There are also swivel connections available for flare gas connections too, so that is another possibility. <S> Quick-connects would work too. <S> You'll probably be able to find one to work that is intended for pneumatic, water, or hydraulics uses.
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Probably the most common "water" swivel in most hardware stores would the quick-disconnect fittings typically used for portable dishwashers or washing machines.
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Leaking threaded connection to shower valve I have a threaded joint to a shower valve that has a small leak. I used teflon tape, however the joint isn't fully sealed. Ive read on the proper technique and such so I'm not looking for how to do it better. Any suggestions/advice on the fix. Ide rather not remove the valve as its not the easiest to get to but I will if there are no suitable alternatives. Thanks <Q> If you can cut out the copper elbow and fitting, on the next one you can try this method: 1) <S> Use a small amount of pipe dope on the male threads prior to applying no less than 3 full wraps with Teflon tape. <S> 2) <S> 3) <S> Before assembly, another thin application of pipe dope (Rectorseal 5 or similar) on top of the Teflon can help seal up the threads of particularly pernicious leaks. <S> It may also be worth confirming that the taper of the threads on your valve and your fitting match. <S> If you cannot or do not wish to remove the fittings or valve, the scorched-earth approach is to use a two-part epoxy putty. <S> Mix the stuff and apply it firmly around the entire threaded area and fitting. <S> The fitting should be bone dry. <S> For extra strength on 'field-expedient' fixes using 2-part epoxies, I've included a small strip of fiberglass tape to embed between two small layers of the putty. <S> It's not necessary, but it might help enhance the strength/longevity of the repair. <A> Yes, you can redo the threaded connection and hope for the best, but it's best not to use them at all if possible. <S> Instead of using the threaded connection, often you can solder the 1/2" OD copper to the inside of the threaded connection on the valve. <S> For example, this Delta rough-in valve allows the use of either 1/2" NPT threaded connections or soldered 1/2" OD copper on the same valve. <A> If you do not want to mess with soldering, you can purchase PEX fittings and use PEX. <S> Cut the copper pipe farther down and put a PEX adapter on it. <S> Then run PEX to the valve. <S> Jeffs solution is the more robust way though.
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I'm suggesting removing one or all of the threaded connections and just sweating the copper directly to the valve, thus eliminating the threads from ever leaking (since you're not using them.) For Teflon tape, they make some varieties that are 'extra thick', which help compress to fill the gaps.
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multi light 1 switch each, and one switch for the all light in my garden i have 6 lights each one have a switch, last week i connect all the lights to one switch so all the 6 lights will turn on with one switch, but some time i don't need all the 6 lights on, and other time i want them all on. so, is there a way to have a switch for each light and a master switch for all the light.(for example:if tow light on, and than i click on the master switch all the other 4 lights will turn on and if i click on it again all the 6 will turn off) (another example:if all the light on and i turn off 3 of them then use the master switch the other 3 will turn off)is that possible? <Q> You could use smart switches and have a lot of versatility... <S> but you can also do it with manual switches easy enough. <S> At the first switch point, you have the "master switch". <S> You bring in always-hot and neutral. <S> Pass through neutral, connect always-hot to the switch, and switched-hot to the other side of the switch. <S> Then at the second switch point, you have 6 switches. <S> Switched-hot goes to each of the switches. <S> Then branch-switched-hot comes off the other side of the switch for each of the six branches. <S> Annnnnd... this is why there are 8 legal colors for hot wires. <S> In this diagram, black=always hot, red=master-switched-hot, and all other colors are branch switched hots. <S> Grounds not shown because, enough. <A> Not really attainable without buying and building a relay panel, or using some sort of programmable switch control system, and even then if you are not familiar with programming these, it's not easy. <S> More attainable is to use your Master switch switch by putting it ahead of the other 6, then use the other 6 switches down stream to select WHICH of the lights you want to come on and off with the Master. <A> There are ways to achieve what you mention, but it is not as simple as placement of switches between power source and loads. <S> One switch could feed six switches, which in turn feed six lights. <S> When the master switch is on, the other switches are operable. <S> When the master switch is off, there is no power. <S> different combinations of the six lights, which would then be selectable with push buttons. <S> An [expensive] example of this kind of switch would be the [Crestron CLSI-C6MRF 1 : <S> This still does not allow the master switch to swap the state of the bulbs, but some programmable systems may permit this. <S> In such a case you may need to install a controller unit or hub with potentially wireless switches and hidden switching/dimming units for each of the six lights. <S> This kind of installation is of the type that might be designed and carried out by a home automation professional.
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You could use a digital switch that can handle 'scenes', which is to say it can be programmed to turn on or off (or dim)
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2-prong cord but 3-prong outlet I received a new Insignia Voice Speaker for work. It has a 2-prong cord, but all of my office outlets are 3-prong. I'm not finding a converter for this arrangement. Is it safe to plug the cord in as is? <Q> As already pointed out, yes you can. <S> But maybe understanding the why will help: From this article, " https://electronics.howstuffworks.com/everyday-tech/question110.htm " <S> The casing is connected directly to the ground prong." <S> So, chances are the device you are using <S> would not electrocute you if a wire became loose inside and touched the casing. <S> That is why there is not a need for the ground prong. <A> Yes it is safe to plug a two prong electrical device into a standard 3 prong outlet. <A> That 2-prong plug is a NEMA 1-15 type. <S> The universal-in-US NEMA 5-15 socket (Mr. Horrified) is specifically designed to accept both NEMA 5-15 and 1-15 plugs. <S> You will also run into NEMA 5-20 sockets (Mr. Winky). <S> The first number (1 or 5) is the NEMA series number. <S> The second number (15 or 20) is the ampacity. <S> North American utility receptacles are all 15A or 20A rated/breakered. <S> If you really, really, really want 240V in that same form factor, look at NEMA 6. <S> It's rarely used in the US, but it's in the catalog and most hardware stores stock all the parts.
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These are specifically designed to accept NEMA 1-15, 5-15 and 5-20 plugs. "The idea behind grounding is to protect the people who use metal-encased appliances from electric shock.
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How to connect LED tape strips in separate locations to one power source? We're looking into running LED Tape Lights under the wall cabinets in our kitchen. We have three sections that would get the lights and we need them all powered by a single switch. There is a switch that goes up into the attic in the middle of the kitchen where we used to have a light so that's not a problem. In the linked picture, the RED lines are where the LED Tapes would go. The cooktop is in the gap at the top and a window is over the sink. There's no way to run something across the openings so I think I need to run three separate lines down from the attic.Pic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/2rsyzpnbw2qf3jr/led%20tape.jpg?dl=0 The length of the actual LED sections are approximately 14", 100", & 12". Each run would also have to come down from the attic to the bottom of the cabinets... The two ways I could think of are: 1) Using one Tape power supply in the attic and then splitting it off to go to the three areas for tapes. Not sure how long I can run things from a single power supply2) Using one power supply for each section of tape (or maybe one for the long section and a second one for the short ones?) I've never used the LED Tape lights before so just wanted to get some basic feedback before I heard to the store and stare at the options hanging on the racks. Thanks! <Q> You can use either one power supply or many. <S> The important thing is that you use a power supply that is listed for enclosing in a wall or attic. <S> Something like in this picture: <S> Any light strip you buy that is designed for permanent installation should come with such a supply and will be listed by UL or similar. <S> I don't recall seeing LED tape strips that come with a proper wall box <S> , rather I have seen them come with plug in power supplies or transformers that most municipalities will not allow to be buried in a wall. <S> It doesn't mean they don't exist, of course. <S> Regardless, check with your code office to see what supply is permitted in your area. <S> Perhaps they will allow a simple transformer to be concealed. <S> That would surprise me, though. <A> First look into the safety aspect. <S> What is the operating voltage of that LED strip? <S> If it is 12V DC type not much concern but some tape light are made to run on 110/240 AC. <S> The following recommended method is suitable for low voltage DC strip light. <S> What you can do it simply cut it into pieces according to your lengths but make sure the cut is made on the cuttable locations on the strip. <S> Then simply relink them using extension wires which are suitable for the current rating. <S> Normally 0.5mm² wires will be the right choice. <S> One power supply should suffice for this. <S> Just feed the power from one end of the strip. <A> You could wire them in series or in parallel. <S> If you take one long tape and cut it up into 3 lengths, you will need to wire them in series, as the parallel approach will not work with one power supply. <S> The AC/DC comments by soosai steven should be considered as well.
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Just be sure that the power supply is matched to your wiring, and large enough for the load. You got nothing much to worry about electrical insulation safety for DC system but be sure the wiring won't be wet by possible water sipping from above.
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Can chipboard shelves be varnished? Note: including a lot of details to avoid XY problem. Background I have been dealing with a minor pest (psocids, in case you're wondering, but I don't want the conversation to become about that), mainly in a kitchen cupboard and the surrounding area. I've already taken a few appropriate steps, and the next step is to try to close various gaps that the bugs use to go through, such as the ones in the picture below at the back of the cupboard (I think they've nested somewhere behind there). I will be doing that with silicone sealant. Problem These bugs crawled everywhere, including the holes in the chipboard of the cupboard, which they seem to like. One such place where the chipboard is exposed, is the side of the shelves inside the cupboard. I want to seal these sides to stop bugs from hiding in there and kill any bugs or eggs that are possibly still alive inside. I don't care much about appearance since these sides are out of sight, but a clear or white layer would be better. I tried spreading a thin layer of silicone on one shelf, but this makes the shelf a bit "sticky" on the sides of the cupboard. This is not a huge problem since the shelves don't move regularly, but the silicone is coming off easily due to this "friction". I thought to use some varnish instead, but then I saw a guy on Youtube ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV-bLLVrakM ) claiming that if I put plain varnish, I risk ruining the shelf by causing it to swell. He suggests "semi-transparent" (i.e., one that includes some paint), which I could not find on Screwfix or other places (UK). His interchangeable use of "varnish" and "stain" does not help either. So, is it true that I should not use a varnish directly on the chipboard? If so, could I use a coat of paint directly and then varnish on top (since I can't find a mixed product)? <Q> By Googling for "chipboard sealant" I found a UK vendor of "work top edge sealer" that seems to be designed for that sort of job. <S> Seals & Waterproofs Sawn Or Drilled Edges, Joints, Sink Cut Outs etc. <S> Excellent sealing and waterproofing properties. <S> Ideal for use on MDF, Chipboard, <S> Timber etc. <S> Prevents water ingress into sawn edges. <S> Easy to use and fast drying. <A> I've used common water-based polyurethane on particle board and fiberboard with no ill effects. <S> If you allow it to dry in a timely manner, you'll see virtually no swelling. <S> If you want to be extra cautious, use oil based polyurethane. <S> It won't absorb into the particle board as much. <A> Compiling information from Ken, RedGrittyBrick, isherwood and my own experience to form proper answer: <S> It's possible to varnish chipboard, but a suitable varnish must be used. <S> Suitability will depend on how difficult it is for its components to be absorbed by the chipboard and cause swelling: oil-based would probably be safer than water-based.
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The safest option would probably be to look for a varnish that specifically says it's suitable for chipboard.
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How do i stop office chair sound when leaning back? I have an office chair, which has a leaning mechanism that can be tightend and loosend as per requirement. But the problem is, whenever i lean backwards, and then come forward, the mechanism makes a krrrrr sound in the forward journey. I found out the sound comes from the cylindrical box type thing. Any ideas how can i get rid of this annoying sound? I don't see a way to open it either. <Q> I've used Lock Ease for this exact issue. <S> It's dry graphite, with an alcohol <S> (I think) based carrier fluid packaged in an aerosol can. <S> The carrier fluid help gets the dry graphite to penetrate then evaporates leaving no oily residue behind. <S> It's made for lock cylinders, but I use it wherever dry lubricant (such as graphite) is needed. <S> Disclaimer: <S> Amazon link for convenience only, I don't work Lock-Ease, Amazon, or the Amazon Marketplace seller distributing the product. <A> <A> I've used standard WD-40 to remove all kinds of office chair noise. <S> It smells for a few hours, but then it prevents squeaks for months or years. <S> I've also used 3-1 oil, sometimes called light machine oil or sewing machine oil. <S> It's a little harder to get in the right spots, but it's slightly thicker, gets more oil in (usually too much, though), and smells less. <S> Pretty much any lubricating oil will work, although you probably want to stay away from used motor oil. <S> That "aroma" will stick around for days.
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Lock Ease is an amazing product. Get some dry silicone lubricant (whichever brand you fancy), and find a way to spray it into the spring housing.
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How can I put a picture frame on the floor I'm putting some picture frames in a photographer's studio. I will hang some of these frames in the wall, but I would like to have some of these on the floor, this way: The problem is: there's some wind circulating in there, and the frames keep falling. I also want to be able to move them around, so I'm not fixing their tops to the wall. What are some nice ways to accomplish that? <Q> I would get a roll of self adhesive Velcro. <S> Put a horizontal stripe on the wall and then a small piece on the back of the picture. <S> When you want to move pull out slide over and restick. <A> Have you considered adding weights to the back of the frames? <S> That would stop them from blowing over due to their lightness. <A> As Demi pointed out above, I would try to add weights to the inside of the frames of your artwork. <S> You could go to a major hardware store and purchase metal rods and use a heat glue gun to attach them to the inside of the frame. <S> I would not glue one on the top inside of the frame. <S> You want to make them "bottom" heavy so that they don't have too much top weight to fall over. <S> You might be able to find some rods at the length you need or you can buy longer ones and cut them down to size with a hacksaw. <S> Good luck!
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What I would do is buy a type of rod that can be glued on the inside along the wooden frame but only glue them on the bottom and possibly the lower half or entire length of the inner sides.
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Can I add an outlet for electronics to a lighting circuit? I'd like to install some speakers in my ceilings and I'm looking to run them with a Chromecast plugged into an amplifier. Would it be possible, legal and safe to get the power from the lighting circuit already in the ceiling? Also, any tips on how I should go about it? <Q> No. <S> There are a few issues here. <S> While what you're doing could in theory safe, the rules are designed so that "what if"s are taken care of. <S> ie. <S> you're installing a socket which could be used for anything, so you have to allow for that. <S> Sockets now require RCD protection, which you won't have on your lighting circuit. <S> The rating for the lighting circuit will be lower than a socket circuit. <S> You're required to terminate a lighting circuit in a suitable fixture. <S> The rules allow for "a suitable power socket", but the implication here is that you'll be using a type D socket, as is typically used for things like table-lamps/uplighters on lighting circuits. <S> Adding a type D plug to your appliance would probably invalidate it's certification. <S> AFAIK <S> you'll be required to submit a "Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate" to local building control. <S> While this can be done by a homeowner, it requires you to be competent, comply completely with wiring regulations and have tested the works properly. <S> Your insurance company might require that works be carried out by a qualified and suitably registered electrician. <S> But! <S> But! <S> Ok, so for point #1 you could add an RCD socket. <S> For point #2 you could in theory add a FCU (fused connection unit) with a 3A fuse - but here you run the risk of someone coming along in the future and changing the fuse for something higher. <S> This in effect rules out this potion Points #3-5 <S> I don't see a way around. <S> All-in-all - this has bad idea written all over it. <A> You can tap into the lighting circuit to provide power for your system. <S> When I have done similar work in the past I put my outlet close to the light fixture pull the supply wires to the new outlet then add a new piece of wire between the new box and light fixture <S> this provides enough slack to make proper connections. <S> It depends on how the room is fed if this new outlet will always be hot or only if the lights are on. <S> Sometimes the power is in the ceiling and a switch leg is run to control the lights (with this the outlets can be hot all the time). <A> It's safe BUT:be careful to install a switch (pull cord if it's in the ceiling <S> and you won't pull wires around, or run wire to your current wall switch and place one <S> there)If your devices are wired directly protect the system with a fuse (FF2A is more than adequate to protect both), or just use standard UK plugs that are already fused. <S> Also remember to check if you have both phase and neutral at ceiling box (old code: phase is red and neutral is black new code: phase is brown and neutral is blue). <S> Check also not to take power from the switched circuit (otherweise you'll be able to use your stereo only if lights are on). <S> Pleas post a photo of your box so we can try to help identifying the wires.
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Other possibilities are the supply is taken to the switch and the switched hot neutral and ground feed the lights, in this case the outlet will only be hot when the lights are on.
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Can I put small nails through plexiglass? I would like to attach a 1/8" thick piece of plexiglass to the front of a bookcase. (It will be open at the top and will be used to house a hamster, so no hinges are needed.) Can I use small nails? Should I drill a very fine pilot hole? If the nail idea is no good, then should I use a special adhesive, or should I use screws? I do not have clamps and I do not have any special drill bits. If you want me to buy a special drill bit that doesn't cost more than $15 and that's available at Lowe's or Home Depot I'm game. Edit : I followed the recommendations and it worked great. Very fine bit first, dipped in the dish soap. Went partway into the wood too. Then switched to a slightly larger bit and didn't go into the wood. (Particle board, actually.) The fine nails (1 1/4 " long) went in nice and straight thanks to the partial pilot hole. Used a slow speed and didn't push much. Operated drill while removing the drill from the hole. Made sure not to overhammer the nails. I left the outer backing film on, to reinforce. Tip: to remove the inner backing film, I rolled it up with a heavy cardboard mailing tube (borrowed from hamster). Comments: the plexiglass didn't slide around even though I didn't have clamps. The drill bit never got hot but I did periodically dip it in the dish soap and I had the sense this was helpful. Conclusion: faster and easier than it would have been with screws. <Q> Fine nails are fine. <S> But you do need to drill a clearance hole the full diameter of the nail shaft through the plastic. <S> You may want to drill a smaller pilot hole at least partway into the wood to reduce the chance of splitting. <S> Any standard drill bit will do, but go very slowly to avoid melting the plastic as you drill. <S> Screws would also be fine (and a bit stronger; maybe overkill), but the same pilot hole rules apply. <A> Polycarbonate (Lexan) might be a better choice than acrylic (aka Plexiglas, Lucite or Perspex). <S> It's very tough but a bit softer with a bit of a yellow cast in the transparent 'color', whereas acrylic tends to be hard, more transparent and much more brittle. <S> See, for example, this comparison. <S> I would still drill the holes of nail diameter + a bit. <S> Go a bit slow and use a sharp bit. <A> Too late to help you this time, (but for others); using washers under the head, especially if using countersunk screws helps, as it creates a clamping force with no chance of a wedging or splitting force building up in the plastic.
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Drill bits tend to walk on plastic, so you may want to put a piece of masking tape over each area to be drilled, which will give a bit of grip to avoid the slide.
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How to replace vent tee under kitchen sink My garbage disposal empties into a trap. Before the trap, my other sink drain joins with a vent tee. I am assuming this in incorrect. Occasionally, the trap does not empty fast enough and water + food climbs up into the horizontal run of pipe, causing it to clog. I am also assuming that I need to replace the vent tee with a sanitary tee. My problem is that I can not find a replacement sanitary tee that has the top threaded. I also can not find a male adapter that maintains the proper diameter. I am seeking advice on how to redo this. Come to think about it, is this plumbing arrangement even allowed? The waste from the other drain, along with the dishwasher discharge flows into the line from the disposal. Isn't it normally the other way around? <Q> Try replacing the tee with a sanitary tee. <S> Use couplers to create threaded ends on the tee. <A> Occasionally, the trap does not empty fast enough and water + food climbs up into the horizontal run of pipe, causing it to clog. <S> I am not sure anything can be done to prevent this besides good garbage disposal habits. <S> This would be good for starters. <S> Go slower and make sure the other sink is open to allow air to enter. <S> If you still have problems after going slow on the disposal, you might consider separating the two sink drains into individual traps. <S> Also, your dishwasher discharge hose should have an air gap or at least a high loop to prevent back flow if the drain backs up. <S> Good luck! <A> Answering for reference: The dishwasher discharge hose got clogged, so I had to dissemble the plumbing. <S> I think when the trap clogged in the past, water and food must have made its way up the other drain and into the discharge hose. <S> Separate issue, but it made me take the pipes apart. <S> I am not sure anything can be done to prevent this besides good garbage disposal habits.
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I don't think replacing that Tee with a Sanitary Tee is going to make any difference without redesigning the whole drain system. The vent tee does in fact have a baffle in the inside of it.
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Is there a reason I should NOT install a ceiling fan in my kitchen? We need to install a new ceiling light in the kitchen. We do not have any kind of exhaust fan in the kitchen, and it would be nice to be able to move the air around on the occasion that something gets burned/overcooked. Additionally, the room is very cold during the winter and too warm in the summer. I'd like to install a ceiling fan with a light fixture. I haven't seen something like this done in any kitchen catalogues or renovation idea boards. When I was speaking with the person in the lighting department of my local home improvement store, I mentioned that I wanted to install a ceiling fan with light in the kitchen. He gave me a weird look, chuckled and said, "Okay, if you want to do that, the fans are over there." So. A couple of things to to note: We have a gas range, but no range hood. We do have CO detectors in every room in the basement and on the first floor (where the kitchen is). Is there any reason not to install a ceiling fan in the kitchen? If so, what is that reason? <Q> That may result in increased wear and tear, so you may end up replacing the unit sooner than if it were somewhere else in the house. <A> Is there any reason not to install a ceiling fan in the kitchen? <S> If so, what is that reason? <S> There's no reason not to. <S> However, here's my anecdotal reason why you shouldn't. <S> I installed a ceiling fan in the kitchen of my house when I moved in. <S> In ten years, I hardly ever used it. <S> It blows things off the counters and throws dust around (and into) your food. <S> I'm prepping the house for sale and have removed the ceiling fan so that I can install it in the bedroom of my new house where it will be much more useful. <A> I have one but have to turn it off while actually cooking because it blows heat away from open pans and is enough to change the way food cooks. <S> I think a vertical exhaust fan through a window or over the stove would work better for removing heat and smoke/odors from cooking on the stove top.
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It can be done, but the fan blades will need cleaned more often from any smoke/oil/residue from cooking in the kitchen as compared to elsewhere in the house.
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Alternatives to circular saw for cutting 2x6 wood? I need to make straight cuts to several 2x6" pieces of wood and I don't have a circular saw. I was checking several stores and a decent circular saw costs over $70. What alternatives do I have for clean straight cuts of 2x6 pieces of treated lumber? It doesn't have to be fast, but it has to be clean. I have a drill and a jigsaw. Thanks. <Q> Buy a handsaw like this 13-20 dollars. <S> Will cut straight not fast and it will strengthen and tone your arm muscles. <A> That said, you can make a straight cut with the jig saw, but it's going to be slow. <S> Best results that way would involve clamping boards together <S> so you have a "fence" of sorts that the base of the jig saw will ride against for the whole length of the cut. <A> Discount companies like "Harbor Freight" sell miter saws and cut saws for around $100.00. <S> Mine, has a 10" blade, and will cut a 2X6 quickly and cleanly. <S> Just be careful when using one; they are quick and unforgiving. <S> If you are not good with motorized tools, do as @Jim Stewart says, but be careful, they will hurt you too.
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If you can borrow a circular saw, that will probably be best.
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How should I go about a partial (bottom 1/5) exterior wall stud replacement? I tried searching for this answer but only found one other question that seemed relevant, but doesn't exactly answer my question. My water heater blew while I was on vacation. I didn't have insurance on my home at the time due to a lapse that occurred to a disruption in my employment so now it seems I'll have to clean up the mess without help. After removing the bottom 14" Of drywall it was clear that the studs nearest to the heater have a fair about of mold damage near the floor. As these studs face the exterior foundation, I'd like to remove the moldy studs to prevent it from spreading. After cutting out the stud and replacing the plate, how do I replace the bottom part of a stud that has mold? Do I just cut an equivalent block of wood and place it under the hanging piece? Do I need to brace the block? should I brace it on one or two sides? What type of bracing should i use? Aluminium? Wood? Thanks! <Q> You can repair the cut studs by replacing the removed portion with new material of the same length and then adding a "sister" stud right next to the repair. <S> the sister should extend all the way to the bottom plate and be toe-nailed to it <S> and it should extend past the repair overlapping the remainder of the old stud by a good three feet. <S> Nail both the replacement piece and the remainder of the old stud to the sister with 16d nails <S> every foot or so. <S> Assuming you are replacing one foot of the old studs and the sister needs to overlap the remainder of the old stud by three feet, you will be removing about four feet of sheetrock. <S> Because you are committed to installing some new sheetrock already I would suggest "In for a dime, in for a dollar" and just remove the entire wall. <S> Then you could skip replacing the cut off portion of the old studs and simply run the sister all the way from plate to plate. <S> Any extra time installing the extra rock will be regained by not having to replace the bottoms of the studs and not having to tape up the joint from new rock to the old, painted rock. <S> (this kind of joint is much easier at the ceiling) <A> For a 1 time event like a broken waterheater or pipe failure <S> I doubt the studs need to be replaced. <S> A 3% Hydrogen peroxide works better than bleach and dosent stink. <S> All wood has mold spores at the lumber mill we spray the wood after the finish cuts or it will look ugly in a few weeks. <S> The fungicide is only a short term preventive measure, keeping the wood dry is the only way to prevent growth. <S> Using a screwdriver push in on the wood If it is rotten the blade will go in with ease <S> If just surface mold <S> the screwdriver won't go very deep unleaded pushed hard. <S> If the wood is sound a 3% hydrogen peroxide and water solution is all that is needed to kill the surface mold once the area is dry replace the insulation and sheetrock. <A> However, I figured I should outline what I did in case someone else ends up in a similar situation to me where tearing out all the drywall seems impractical. <S> I'm not sure if I'm using the correct framing terms, I'm just using what I could find as defined when building a doorway/window. <S> I cut all the rotted / ant eaten studs at the same height and cut outthe rotting the floor plate below them. <S> I replaced the floor plate with a ground contact treated 2x4 that Iripped down to 2x3 (to match my studs). <S> I drilled a pilot though the with a wood bit then 1.25" deeper intothe cement with a masonry bit and fasted them with cement screws(tapcons). <S> I cut a single header plate to span the length between the uncut studs. <S> I then cut jack trimmers and cripples to fill the distance betweenthe header and floor plates (but wasn't able to cut all of them perfectly). <S> I used my longest cut pieces as jack trimmers and fastened them to the header plate with screws from above, then to the existing (King?) <S> with screw at the sides, and into the plate on angle. <S> (I did this to to prevent the new frame from possibly bowing.) <S> I tapped in (or shimmed) <S> the remaining cripple jacks so that they were directly supporting the cut studs above, then drove screws on angles to hold them into the floor plate and new header plate. <S> (I wasn't able fasten them with a screw from above as indicated in my planning diagram below.) <S> I drove screws on angle from the cut off studs into the header plate to secure them.
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Marking Peter's answer as correct, as for most people tearing out the extra drywall and sistering in a stud is the correct thing to do.
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Light to turn on for every second switching I have a very modifiable simple fixture with two E14 sockets. I want to modify the wiring of one so that it only gets current when the switch is turned on an even number of times. I will put a strong LED bulb in this socket, and a weaker in the other. Is there a simple, inexpensive and small way to achieve this? Dimmable switches and dimmable LEDs are very expensive here. I cannot replace the wiring between the switch and the fixture without serious masonry, this is a 50 years old concrete house. The fixture is not even grounded. <Q> Quick answer - no. <S> At least none that I am aware of. <S> You would need a logic loop that would keep track of the number of attempts. <S> Closest inexpensive method would be to purchase a three way lamp switch which would be off- on lamp1 - on lamp1 and lamp2-off. <S> Other than that good luck. <A> Does it have to be two bulbs? <S> I don't know what the availability is in your country, but it seems to be available in the UK. <S> For US readers, the bulb is Model 464883 for 2700 K and 464909 for 5000 K. <S> I can't find the product on Philips's website, here's a link to it at Home Depot . <S> The UK site shows a 800 and 1600 lm version. <S> Another SceneSwitch version goes between 5000 K 100%, 2700 K 100% and 2200 K 10%. <S> I actually have this model above my head right now <S> , it works really well. <A> Shop for something like this in your local hardware store: <S> In the USA it is called a "three-way canopy switch" or "three-way lamp switch". <S> (There's also a pull chain version <S> but I have no picture.) <S> This kind of switch has four positions: (1) off; (2) black-to-red; (3) black-to-blue; (4) black-to-red-to-blue. <S> You connect your line hot to the switch black, the switch red to the hot side of the weaker bulb, and the switch blue to the hot side of the stronger bulb. <S> (And, of course, your line neutral to the neutral of both bulbs.) <S> When you operate the switch it will cycle through (1) off; (2) weaker bulb on; (3) stronger bulb on; (4) both bulbs on. <S> This gives a slightly finer control over the brightness than you asked for, but should generally satisfy your needs.
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If not, Philips sells a series of LED bulbs which dim between high-medium-nightlight simply by flicking the switch on and off.
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Is MDF a reliable product for interior trimwork? We are debating whether to use MDF or real wood for interior trim around doors and windows. We're told that the MDF is easier to work with ~ no sanding and possibly cheaper. However, we have gotten mixed reviews from several people, some saying the MDF can warp and dent easier than wood. Can someone with experience address this issue for us? <Q> As to what you have heard; Mdf in a dry interior environment will not warp like wood. <S> It should not be installed in kitchens, bathrooms or outdoors. <S> A good carpenter can use wood or mdf to provide pleasant finished details. <S> If you can afford it, choose wood. <A> I would say that MDF is the poor man's luxury product. <S> It cannot handle any moisture but it is smooth, hard, durable and stable (doesn't expand or contract with seasonal change. <S> It takes paint nicely and because it is hard and smooth <S> it requires far less skill in painting to get a great look. <S> It goes up fast and takes paint fast. <S> And if you pre-paint it on all sides and ends with a quality primer it can even handle some moisture. <S> It <S> you want <S> a true high-end look buy select wood. <S> If you want a nice looking job requiring half the time and half the skill the MDF is a good choice. <A> I wouldn't recommend mdf for trim, especially around windows where condensation could turn the mdf to bloated mush. <S> When MDF gets wet is expands a LOT, so don't use mdf anywhere there is moisture such as bathrooms, kitchen, exterior doors and windows.
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Mdf is a fair product for the price. I always advise clients to choose real wood if the budget allows.
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How to fix old un-suppported basement wall in house that has had added basement? I have an older house (circa 1919) that was built without a basement (just a crawl space). About 1965 a basement was added. Along one of the old concrete foundation walls there is a 7 foot section that has nothing under the bottom of the wall! (See image below.) In the last 10 years 2 pieces of the wall have cracked off the bottom . The pieces weigh maybe 150 lbs and 50 lbs. This concrete wall is only about 2 feet in height (the bottom is maybe 20 inches below ground level). It seems to me that this wall is at risk of falling in completely. I realize I could call in a professional to fix it ($$$). But would like to at least consider any options I may have to fix this myself. I am an avid do-it-yourselfer and in 25 years have only ever hired a contracter one time (to replace my steep roof). Anyone have any good ideas about how to fix this problem? Extra points if your suggestion is work I could do myself. :-) Thanks! EDIT: My diagram may give the wrong impression about one point: the old foundation wall is unsupported for a 7 foot section only. But somehow it is still hanging in place. The rest of the wall does have dirt under it holding up. <Q> This is probably just a good comment <S> but I would highly suspect that the old wall is providing zero support. <S> Just because things are connected to it does not mean that it is supporting those things. <S> Since this was done in 1965 I am pretty sure I am correct or you would have a warped/bent floor on the edges. <S> The concrete that is malfunctioning on you is simply concrete breaking down because it is holding up itself. <S> Concrete is really bad at this. <S> That is why structures like parking garages require tons of rebar and meshing even though they are mainly concrete. <S> And even then concrete will crack and fall. <S> I am guessing yours has nothing internal supporting it. <S> My recommendation would be to fill in the void as well as possible with drainage rock and aggregate. <S> There are techniques you can use when adding the rock to pressurize the load for that small wall better. <S> But note that the load is only itself. <S> The other note I would make is the most concerning part of your picture is the angle of the missing dirt. <S> It seems that the void clearance runs into your usable foundation. <S> I would add enough dirt to add a size ramp to offset any wicking water to the other direction (8-12 inches higher). <A> Because the old wall is at the perimeter of your house, it is/was a bearing wall. <S> You’ll need to determine if it is still a bearing wall. <S> There are a few things you’ll need to verify: 1) Is it still supporting a bearing wall? <S> 2) Is the house “resting” on the old foundation? <S> 3) Is the old foundation still tied to the original wall above? 4) <S> Is the old foundation “tied” to the new wall? <S> 5) Is anything (plumbing, electrical, etc.) anchored to the old wall? <S> 1) <S> It’s odd that it does not have a “footing”, but often the builders of those old houses didn’t include a footing. <S> If the floor joist run perpendicular to the wall, they could rest on the new wall and then cantilever 24” to support the wall, floors (if any) and roof above. <S> If the floor joists run parallel to the wall, it may not be needed. <S> 2) You’ll need to determine if the house still rests (touches) the old foundation. <S> You can do this with a piece of paper and try to slip it between the foundation and the wall above. <S> 3) <S> The house may not be resting on the original foundation, but it may be tied together with foundation bolts, straps, etc. <S> if so, the wall above could be trying to support the foundation. <S> If so, you’ll need to “cut it loose”. <S> 4) <S> Likewise, the new wall could be tied to old wall. <S> If so, you’ll need to verify this and, determine the reason. <S> 5) I’d disconnect all plumbing, wires, etc. <S> in any event. <S> If you remove the old foundation, make sure you install plywood, (or something) on the bottom of the floor joists to keep rodents out...and if there are old crawl space vents, you’ll need to figure out what to do there too. <A> That's a potentially very dangerous situation. <S> Here in Toronto, due to the skyrocketing housing costs people have turned to underpinning to add basement height in order to create a livable space. <S> My role is to restore the HVAC, water heater and often install hydronic radiant floor heating. <S> The pins are usually no more then 24" wide and done in three stages to avoid damage to the rest of the house. <S> The underpinner I contract for does several jobs a month and has one of the best track records in the city. <S> I have heard about house collapses when DIYers try to underpin. <S> It's something not to be trifled with. <S> At the very least, have an engineer/architect look at it and guide your course of action. <S> Soil conditions dictate what can be done and what can't be done. <S> I wouldn't suspect that you are in danger of a catastrophic collapse <S> but you are probably in danger of having to do serious repairs to your home because of sagging, shifting and cracking.
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Given that a new basement was poured there is a 99% chance that they pushed those walls up to provide load support to the entire house.
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Is it safe to keep using this 30amp safety breaker for water heater? First of all this is the technical data written on the heater: I've been using the following connection for my water heater for 2 years before the switch key got molten as shown in the following two pictures ( The heater was always left in the socket and we used the switch key for turning the heater on/off ): Now, I called for an electrician and he replaced that connection with a breaker of 30 Ampere.As far as I know, A heater like this won't use more than 7 ampere, so I believe it's better to replace it with 15 ampere or something like this. My question is: Am I correct that this breaker isn't functional ? Can this connection cause any damage if I didn't change it ? EDIT: This is the main breaker of the home EDIT 2:The water heater is connected to that C20 breaker with some 7 bulbs of 16 watt each and some times we connect 2000 watt device, so this whole circuit uses about 16.4 Amp. The main circuit breaker of 20A is perfect in my opinion, but still want a perfect connection for the heater itself.Now:What connection is better ? The old connection but with replacing that 30A switch-breaker with 10A one ? The new connection as it was, not grounded because no ground sockets in Egypt. Something else is better ? <Q> In North America, we have a service panel containing a main breaker which protects the whole panel and a row of circuit breakers which clip into buses and protect individual circuits. <S> Europe has the same function , with breakers all in one location -- but they use random components mounted on "DIN rail" and hand wire all interconnections (no buses). <S> My guess is your C50 is your "main breaker" which feeds all the others, and then the 10 and 20 amp breakers protect individual circuits, presumably including the water heater circuit. <S> I see 1-2 empty holes in your panel, so you have spare spaces . <S> Let us try a hypothesis, <S> that the water heater was not breaker protected at all: if so, why would they not simply use one of the spare spaces in your panel and an ordinary breaker? <S> Therefore I suspect your water heater is protected by one of these breakers. <S> Therefore it is protected by 3 breakers: the 50A main, the 10 or 20A branch circuit breaker, and the 30A standalone switch-breaker. <S> You should really study/follow the wires to make sure of that assumption. <S> Or you could turn off the 10/20A breakers one at a time to see if any of them power the water heater. <S> It really doesn't do any harm to have redundant overcurrent protection. <S> But it doesn't do any good, either. <S> The protection will be the breaker of smallest capacity rating. <S> Though I would expect the package to mention that. <S> Your electrician may have been thinking about your future. <S> 1500W is a very small water heater that will be slow to recover. <S> I can't speak for the rest of the world, but North American practice is to use a higher capacity water heater in the 5500W / 23A range. <S> As Ken discusses, we derate by 125%, so 23A becomes 28.75A, fitting just inside the 30A we typically allocate for water heaters. <S> However in your house with a 50A main, a 30A water heater is too much. <S> Was your electrician aware of any future plan to upgrade service? <A> NEC Code 210.20 <S> Overcurrent protection for continuous loads must be sized at no less than 125% of the load <S> So you take that 6.8 Amps (or lets just say <S> 7 Amps and multi ply by 1.25 <S> = 8.75 <S> So a 10 AMP breaker would be MORE than sufficient. <S> A breaker higher rated than this - what do you prefer to burn up first the Water heater or trip a breaker. <S> Your water heater manual SHOULD specify the manufacturers recommended breaker. <S> Just doing my calculations based on code if the Water Heater is the only thing on that circuit - then I would Reduce the breaker to a 10 AMP circuit and protect the water heater. <A> So keep the fuse little. <S> If your fuse breaks too often consider going for a 10A <S> but no higher <S> Also suggest (if not yet done) to use a proper socket and not to force a schuko a regular receptacle. <S> Your (old) connection was also un-grounded and you're at risk of being electrocuted while taking a shower
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30A for a 1500W appliance is too big (In this case is your boiler that 'protects' the braker), just go for a T7A (slow-blow fuse), water heater is a resistive load and doesn't have a big start up overcurrent. It is also possible that this switch-breaker does something special, like provide GFCI/RCD protection.
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Drilling a hole from both sides of the wall I need to drill a through hole in a brick wall. Is there a method to start from both sides of the wall and meet in the wall? I wish to do this because: The wall is slightly thicker than the length of my drill bit. (Of course I could just go and by a longer bit.) I want to avoid the "exit wound" effect. <Q> I have done this on concrete block , brick and stone, some as thick as 2'. <A> One approach would be to go get a smaller bit of sufficient length. <S> Drill through, then come in from each side with the larger bit. <A> The professional tool that allows you to align your hole and drill from both sides of a solid material like brick accurately is called a Transpointer (e.x. Hilti PX10 ). <S> Unfortunately they're usually around $1000, so that's probably not an option. <S> Drill your 10mm hole to a depth within 25mm of the face of the brick so that you don't blow out the other side, put a stack of neodymium button magnets (less than 10mm in diameter) into the hole, and then use one of the neodymium magnets on the other side of the hole to find the center blindly. <S> Now you know exactly where the hole is and can drill the last 25mm from the blind side and prevent a blowout.
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Start with a small bit and measure from the same brick to get the center on both sides then drill in, starting with a smaller bit and good measurements I usually connect but am slightly angled (I guess I never hold the bit quite square) now that the 2 holes are connected open up with the correct size bit. That way you avoid the surface damage, plus a smaller bit will be cheaper for you. If your hole depth is close enough to the surface, the magnet will either repel or be attracted to the center of the stack of magnets in the wall depending on which pole (North or South) you put nearest the wall.
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Dip in Driveway causing car to bottom out - How to bridge the gap? New townhome has a steep driveway that leads into a ramp up into the garage. Cars are bottoming out as the wheels go into the dip. Looking for advice on the best way to fill or bridge this gap in order to get cars into the garage. <Q> My suggestion would be to get hold of a set of "bridging ladders", as used by off-roaders to bridge gullies - they look very similar to the grids covering the drain in your photo, but thicker, wider and stronger to hold the weight of a car. <S> You could probably bolt them down if necessary to stop them moving, or just store them loose in the garage, depending on how often you need to get the car through. <A> I assume the dip is where the driveway meets the street ? <S> If so, a neighbor had that problem; unfortunately he had to breakout about 12 feet of drive to smooth the contour ( he could not do anything to the city street ). <A> If you want to keep it "on the cheap", here's one option. <S> Procure some pressure-treated timbers (4x4, landscape timbers) and fit them to the sides of the approach area as retainers. <S> You'll need to cut tapers at each end <S> so they fit the profile of the depression. <S> Secure these timber retainers using expanding anchors and lag screws, rebar stakes, or any other practical means. <S> This will create a fairly stable base while still allowing water drainage. <S> It'll feel a bit loose at first, but it'll settle in. <S> Use crushed granite rather than river rock for best results.
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Fill the depression with large washed rock (2" screen should do). It looks like the dip is there for drainage, so you can't fill it in - otherwise water from the street would flood your garage every time it rained!
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Does new drywall need 2 coats of primer Do I need 2 coats of primer on new drywall? Homeowner is using primer/paint on finish coat. Will the primer/paint suffice, instead of 2nd coat of primer? This is for all new surface. walls, ceilings & trim. <Q> It really depends on the results you get after the first coat. <S> The purpose of primer is to lay down a surface that is uniform and consistent in color, within reason smoothness texture absorption absence of surface contamination <S> Because if those things are not uniform, the irregularities will print through when you topcoat. <S> You can get it to stop printing through if you spam enough coats of topcoat... <S> But since that's primer's job, it's better to resolve it at the primer stage, where you are sure to get it in 1 or 2. <A> You only ever need 1 coat of primer. <S> Many times you'll need 2 (or 3 or even more) coats of paint to get good coverage, depending on the color, but priming is only done once. <S> On existing walls that currently have paint, you may not even need a primer coat - especially with all of the paint+primer products out there now. <A> Generally speaking, primer + paint is a bit misleading. <S> All paint (even older paint not billed as having primer) contains the polymers to "stick" to each other (premium paints contain more of them so, in theory, it takes less coats). <S> The catch there is that paint itself is not cheap (you're using a final coating product as an undercoat). <S> For new drywall, primer is really essential. <S> The good news is that they make a "new drywall only" primer ( example ) <S> that's pretty cheap (compared to a bucket of normal paint) because it's only trying to fill that porous-ness, not do other things <S> normal primer does, like provide adhesion over something like an oil/wallpaper glue stain. <A> I always prime with a quality primer , use cheap stuff & you pay in the long run using more topcoat than primer. <S> especially an older house with plaster walls , depending the last time it was painted , you will see the walls "sucking " in the paint ,only sending you for more paint. <S> It can become an expensive project , I always prime new drywall and especially the spackeling ,this uses a few coats . <S> I laughed when they started advertising "paint with primer", like it magically seals the walls ,lol
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New drywall is pretty porous (it will absorb more of the paint than a previously painted wall would) and primer helps fill that in before you paint.
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Line Voltage Dropping when Microwave runs When I turn on the built-in Microwave in a 3 years old house it starts and then in 2-3 sounds the changes and it is apparent that something is wrong. The microwave does not heat.Then I noticed that the gas range electronic display was turning on and off when the microwave was turned on. I took out the multimeter and there is 20 Volts drops when the microwave is running! No trips in the circuit and the damn Microwave and Gas Range are not even on the same circuit. What could be going on?? Should I be worried?! <Q> With these being on 2 different circuits call your power company and report a problem. <S> You could have lost a leg or a neutral , you could listen for arcs and sparks in your panel but if you keep trying appliances they may all get fried if the service neutral opened. <A> Depending on how much current your microwave draws <S> (1000W - 1200W??) <S> it may be drawing enough power to cause some modest voltage drops, especially if you have other appliances or loads on other circuits in the house. <S> It may be a good idea to have a LICENSED ELECTRICIAN (verify license) <S> come in and take a look around. <S> They will probably recommend a re-wire of the house, which won't be cheap, but in the long run you will have a much more livable house, not to mention safer place to live. <S> This is one of those cases where you can get by for a while, but get an inspection at least, even if you don't have the work done right away. <S> At least, you won't find yourselves crispy critters in the middle of the night due to some unknown electrical fault. <A> I just re-read <S> the original post, and you are correct, unlikely that in a 3-year old house the service would be that small. <S> I missed the important detail "3 years old house".
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And with a house of that age, it may have had some unauthorized wiring done at some time, too, which may be adding to the problems you are experiencing. In any case, it certainly bears investigation and a checkup by somebody who knows what they are doing.
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How to make my cheap but well sanded wood look glossy I built a few wooden thing with cheap pine and plywood. They are working very fine. I like to make them look glossy. I expect there are thick varnish products that can do the job. So my cheap woods look shiny with proper stain and varnish. However, I tried the following products and there is none or very little result. This one, it is quite watery and didn't do anything: This one is more expensive, but the result is not that glossy: Am I looking at right products? Is there any thick oil based varnish that can make my cheap wood shiny and glossy? <Q> You are looking at the correct products but to get a high gloss several coats will be needed with a very light sanding or steel wool buff and clean in between coats. <S> In high end finishes I put at least 5 coats and have used closer to 30 on show pieces. <S> Light sanding between coats is important, don't over work <S> or you will have bumps , put it on let dry buff clean put more on and repeat. <S> You can make plywood look awesome with a light stain and several coats of polyurethane <A> If you want to use fewer coats (or a single coat, maybe, but there are practical limits) <S> an epoxy coating can go on thicker and still cure. <S> There's a wide range of viscosity, tint/color/clarity and cure times - also, you need to be very careful about bubbles with the more viscous varieties, while the less viscous varieties will typically need a dam at the edge and to be applied to a horizontal surface only (unless applying very thin.) <S> As already mentioned by Ed, the products you have shown do work, but not in one coat (no matter what the can says.) <S> Despite needing more coats, they will generally cost less than an epoxy. <A> According to its MDS it contains xylene, so I'd assume that's what you're supposed to thin it with. <S> That should be your first clue that this is commercial grade stuff, the second is that its price has to be 'quoted' on the company's web site. <S> Meaning <S> : know what you're doing and with what chemicals. <S> I've no affiliation with Freeman; this is what dad used to use in his foundry. <S> It's glossy AF.
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If you're really trying to get away with only one coat, you need Pattern Coating .
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Is this stuff in my furnace toxic? I am in the process of removing an old coal furnace. after removing the natural gas conversion kit I now see some type of loose filler or insulation which was present around the conversion kit pipe. There is also a substance that looks like joint compound which was used to adhere the sheet metal plate to the furnace opening. How likely is it that either of these substances contain asbestos? Is it possible to tell from a visual examination? The kit says 1979 on it, so I assume the conversion happened in the 80s. I'm pretty well past my prime, and I am the only person living in the house. How risky would it really be for me just to put on a dust mask and sweep this stuff out of there? Thanks in advance for any knowledge or advice that you are willing to share. <Q> That is vermiculite . <S> You can buy that stuff at Walmart in the garden department. <S> There is a small possibility that it contains asbestos. <A> I would assume that it contains asbestos, and act accordingly: <S> 1- Get a good mask <S> 2- Get Contractor Bags <S> 3- <S> Bag the debris delicately lifting as little dust as you can 4- Seal the bags (tape them up) <S> 5- Dispose of them <S> (I'll let that one up to you) <S> These are suggestions. <S> I am not liable in any circumstance <S> (sorry had to add this). <A> Before you throw the boiler away, I would recommend that you advertise that you are disposing of a coal boiler, (if the sections are not cracked and can hold water), and is there anyone interested in purchasing it. <S> There are people every where that may want this boiler. <S> You may be able to sell it or at least have them remove it for free. <S> AS for any asbestos material, asbestos was outlawed around 1970 or so but old boilers were "FULL" of it <S> I would proceed cautiously. <A> The "joint compound" is some form of mastic, which may contain asbestos if it was manufactured prior to 1984. <S> If it does it's a very low risk because the fibers won't become airborne unless you so something reckless like sanding or sawing it. <S> The "popcorn" is vermiculite, a mineral which expands and forms small voids when heated. <S> A low-density rock that traps lots of air has obvious appeal as fire-proof insulation. <S> Unfortunately, tons of the stuff was mined and processed from an asbestos containing deposit in Montana. <S> Short of having a qualified geologist look at it under magnification there's no way to tell. <S> It's a bit more nefarious than the mastic because shoveling it up will cause fibers to be airborne. <S> Wetting it will greatly reduce the number. <S> Keep in mind that a professional asbestos remediation involves a decontamination shower and negative air pressure to prevent fibers travelling to other parts of the building, either on clothing or air currents. <S> They should also be checking the air quality afterwards to make sure fibers are wafting around.
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It is possible that there was an asbestos vein in the ground where the vermiculite was mined.
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How to Cover Giant Sewer Vent Does anyone have a creative/safe way to hide this hideous sewer vent and manhole? Thanks in advance! <Q> That concrete riser really should be buried, ideally. <S> Disguising the pipe (and the riser if you don't bury it) has many possible methods, starting at the low end with painting it, since sewer-pipe green stands out quite a bit. <S> As is, you might make the pair resemble a broken-off stump with a branch sticking up using brown/gray/black paints. <A> You could build a decorative wishing well around and over it. <A> As someone who is currently living my first Septic home, I would have identified this photo as septic (not sewer- sewer connects to your house underground with pipe from the street) especially with it being downhill and away from the house. <S> the surrounding dirt may have simply eroded over time. <S> (You should have a septic inspection separate from your general home inspection) <S> As far as "hiding" it... providing it is indeed septic, there are some things to know. <S> First, you need to find out where your drainage field is, because you cannot build or plant anything significant in that area. <S> The ground is, for practical purposes, hollow in that area <S> and it can't hold the weight of any structures or large root systems. <S> Second, whatever you Do decide to install needs to still allow access to the cap. <S> (the man hole looking part) <S> Think in similar terms to hiding an A/C unit. <S> This is for future maintenance and in case of problems with the unit. <S> Last on my list is that you plan for those who will be around it most often. <S> Do you have kids? <S> Then it should be kid friendly. <S> Is the yard person the only one going near it most days? <S> They need to be able to clearly see the cap from the mower. <S> These sorts of considerations can make or break a project. <S> It's possible you could fix this with some grass, wildflowers (no deep roots), and a conveniently placed windmill, or you may be more interested in some raised beds, or a vertical garden, or even a mini shed. <S> That part is all up to you. :)
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I concur that the majority of the cemented portion showing would generally be buried, check the age of the septic- Presumably you don't want tree roots right there, but some artificial foliage might help, or some annual vines trained on strings. So give the idea of dumping a lot of dirt there some serious thought. Going more involved, you put a (removable) windmill or lighthouse (or other decorative motif structure) over them.
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How can I finish off a three gang switch with one switch missing? I removed one switch from a three gang switchbox. I simply don't need it. All the wires to that switch have been trimmed and taped off and the same at the opposite end of those wires. Now, what can I do to finish off the outside of that switch? The simple solution would be to plaster over the vacant third of the box and put a double gang cover on the outside. Am I breaking any codes if I do that? If so what's a decent alternative? This is in Canada. <Q> I can't speak to the codes portion of your question, however my husband has been changing out our builder's outlets to z-wave since we moved in. <S> As long as your wires are capped off (I'll assume tapped off is the same thing) how about putting on a 3-gang switch plate with 1 blocked? <S> Hubs did this recently with a 2-gang. <S> It leaves all the wires accessible behind the plate should you need/want access to them for a future project while still closing off/shutting down the area that's not longer in use. <A> Like these . <S> You could assemble a two-switch + one-blank plate to cover your now empty section of that box. <S> This would be the easiest cheapest way to discontinue the box. <A> You cannot legally plaster over one-third of a 3-gang box. <S> For one thing, the outer edge of the box is supposed to line up with the room surface of the finished wall. <S> So how would you "cover over" 1/3 of the box with a 1/2" thick wall? <S> If, for aesthetic or other reasons, you are determined to have only a 2-gang cover at that location, you would have to remove the 3-gang box and replace it with a 2-gang box, then refinish the wall up to the new box.
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Removing and replacing the box with a two gang would involve drywall or plaster repair. Leviton (and I am pretty sure LaGrand) make sectional wall plates including blank sections. Plastering over the now empty part of the box would probably not pass inspection and is just not a best-practice way to fix this.
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what to mount my generator on I recently purchased a portable closed hyundai electric generator for home use, 6,3 kva, 8000se, diesel. The generator is on wheels. I have put it in a well ventilated storage shed more than 15 feet from my house. The shed has a concrete floor covered with tiles. What material do you recommend that I place between the tile floor and the generator? <Q> I would use an anti-fatigue floor mat. <S> The wheels will make divots into the squishy floor mat material and help it from moving around from the vibrations. <A> You should be moving the generator outside to run it. <S> It's in a well ventilated area in the mean time because of fuel fumes and such. <S> When running it, look for a level-ish spot. <S> Concrete is great, but dirt or stone works fine, too... <A> You don't need to put anything under a portable generator. <S> You're going to have to wheel it outside to legally run it anyway. <S> What problem are you trying to solve? <S> Oil drips?
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Unless your floor is easily damaged (and it shouldn't be, it's in a shed), just park it directly on the floor. Maybe try a piece of cardboard and swap it out from time to time, as you take the generator in and out for its periodic exercise.
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Lights will not come on after taking out wall outlet OK.. I noticed smoke coming from my bedroom wall outlet.... I went outside turned off what I thought was the breaker to that room.... Come to find out that breaker had already switched itself off... Anyway I go and take the electrical outlet out and notice that the (white wires) had almost completely burned the side that it was on... I put electrical tape on all four wires then went to the breaker box to put all the switches to (on)...not only didn't the lights come on in the bedroom I was working on...that side of the house has no power!!!!..... Please help!!! <Q> Call a licensed electrician, and leave the breaker off until they get there. <S> Smoke from the outlet means something got too hot, which means there was an overcurrent situation (e.g., a short). <A> It is hard to tell what exactly happened, apart from the breakers having saved your house and potentially your life. <S> Probably the wires which just burned are as well responsible for powering the complete side of this house. <S> But it would be dangerous to just assemble everything together as it was and hope that all is fine now. <S> Instead you should have a licensed electrician <S> have a look on the whole installation. <A> If the breaker that tripped was an AFCI, then this could have tripped if there was a loose connection in the box that the smoke was coming from. <S> It would get hot if current was flowing at a level way below the over-current limit. <S> Was the breaker an AFCI or a standard breaker? <S> If the answer is yes, then it could be that you could just remake the connections properly and the circuit might work. <S> If the receptacle was "backwired", a loose connection is likely. <S> You should
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If you don't, the breaker will just trip again (best case), or the wires will heat up again and cause a fire, burning the house down (worst case). Your breaker did its job by tripping, but you should not turn the breaker back on until you have corrected the cause of the overcurrent. Given your lack of experience with the electrical system in your house, your best course of action is to call in the pros.
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No pilot light on gas oven? I have a Magic Chef in-wall oven, stove is separate by the way. The oven is gas. I was told it has no pilot light by some "help" person on another site. Is there a pilot light on all gas ovens? If so, where is it? Afraid to turn on knob to light along with a match. lol <Q> According to online documentation, this model uses a glow bar. <S> If it were my oven, I'd open the door, remove the lower metal cover from within the oven (removing the grates first if necessary) and watch what happens when you turn the oven on. <S> With glow bar designs, for safety reasons, the gas valve may not even open if the glow bar has failed (when it generally becomes an open circuit). <S> In my experience, glow bars are not very reliable and yours may have failed "open". <A> Modern ovens / gas ranges / water heaters don't need pilot light as they use piezo-electric ignitors. <S> So you have to look for a button to press to ignite the oven. <S> So just turn and press the knob and, few seconds after the fire lit, release the knob and adjust the temperature. <A> Looking line <S> I only saw models with a pilot , I tried looking for spark and hot surface ignitors but did not find any thing other than the standing pilot for your model. <S> The instructions say remove the broiler carriage , turn the thermostat past 140 hold a match at the top forward section of the pilot after the pilot lights the burner will light in 30 to 60 seconds, replace broiler carriage. <A> Not all ovens use piezo-electric, <S> the Kenmore gas range/oven that my wife put in her rental apartment some time ago had a high temperature "glow" element. <S> It was basically a heating element that turned on when you first started the oven, and was hot enough to light the gas. <S> We had Sears service replace the unit several times because it would burn out. <S> (an the installers would screw it up)
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For an oven (not a stove top) one should NOT have to press any button to get anything to ignite - the thermostat and circuitry will take care of that for you, provided everything is intact and working.
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How to determine the sizes/arrangements of supply pipes? I'm going to replace my rusted-out iron pipes with copper. The plumbing is exposed in the basement so I'm not forced to use the existing design. I'm trying to figure out when I can run fixtures in series off of a main pipe, and when I should use parallel pipes. (sorry; I'm an electrical guy!) As a specific example, let's look at a bathroom. The thick lines are 3/4" copper, the thin lines are 1/2": I don't want the shower temperature/flow to change if the toilet is flushed. So, it seems that I can: Not worry about it; the layout is fine. Increase "A" to 3/4". Run a parallel pipe, as shown: (I know that I could solve this with a thermostatic mixer valve, but I'm looking for a generalized answer.) I know that there must be guidelines for this sort of thing. Is this described in code somewhere? How do you decide when fixtures in series are OK, and when you should run pipes in parallel? This answer was illuminating but I'm looking for more details. <Q> Another solution, if you can't replace existing with bigger pipes, is to use 'automatic pressure balancer' on the lines serving all, so if a big pressure drop is found on cold water, the same pressure drop will be applied to cold water so, at each end, the pressure isn't different. <A> I would go with your second diagram. <S> Keep the 3/4" as your main line and branch off of that to each fixture with 1/2". <A> Without looking at your diagram, this is what I have done in my last 2 new houses <S> and it works perfectly. <S> Run all main lines in 3/4" and use no 1/2" tees anywhere. <S> All tees are either 3/4"X3/4"X1/2" or 3/4"X1/2"x1/2". <S> A 1/2" line supplies only 1 fixture or outlet not 2 or more. <S> For example if the toilet has a 1/2" supply it can not also serve the sink or shower regardless of how close they are. <S> Now, looking at your diagram, the 1st diagram (top) <S> the blue "A" line would have a 3/4"X 1/2"x 3/4"tee and the 2nd tee would be a 3/4"X 1/2"X 1/2" tee and the red line would have a 3/4"X1/2"X1/2" tee.
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Usually if you have multiple users from the same line, that line should be bigger in order to avoid unbalancing EG: you have a toilet a sink and a shower, you should run 3/4 pipe across all and connect each user with a 1/2 manifold
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Is a ballast required, or merely acceptable, for this Philips InstantFit LED tube? Rather than replace a dead ballast in a fluorescent fixture, I've decided to simply bypass and move to LEDs. However, I think I may have grabbed the wrong kind of replacement tubes the other day in Home Depot. They are in the Philips "InstantFit" range, and are specifically intended to be used without having to remove the ballast. But my question is the following. Is it merely that you don't have to remove the ballast (i.e. but you can if you want)? Ot is it the case that you must not remove the ballast?† I ask because all the instructions I've been able to find are a tiny bit ambiguous (to me). In the "Warnings and Safety" section on page two of the data sheet it says††: Philips LED T8 InstantFit lamps will only operate properly on compatible instant-start ballasts. However, there are two ways to read that. One, which I now think is the intent, is: Philips LED T8 InstantFit lamps will operate properly only if used with a ballast, and it must be of a compatible, instant-start type. But the other is: Philips LED T8 InstantFit lamps will operate properly with or without a ballast. However, if a ballast is used, then it must be of a compatible, instant-start type. Anyone know definitively which it is? Various numbers (from the box): Model: 9290012265 Ordering Code: 20T12 EM LEF/48-4000 IF G 10/1 thanks. † If so, that's fine. But then I need to replace them and get the kind intended for ballast bypass, of which there are several. †† That link is to the "global" version. Curiously, the almost-but-not-quite-identical US version does not make the same explicit point. <Q> Interesting thing about being human is the brain is wired to see what it expects to see. <S> It's hard to turn that off, even if you're a ship spotter or pilot . <S> There is such a thing as LED bars which work both ways, either with a ballast or direct-wire. <S> But they're a lot bolder about claiming so! <S> The ruling word is "only" and your first interpretation is correct. <S> The data sheets you link are highly ambiguous. <S> But that's not so weird when you look at the Electrical Code, NEC 110.3b: <S> NEC 110.3(b <S> ) Equipment must be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling requirements. <S> The operative words are instructions and labeling . <S> A data sheet is neither. <S> So you need to review the labeling on the item, or the instructions in the box. <S> Be warned: if you find that data sheet inside the box, that is bad . <S> It means this thing is probably counterfeit: the counterfeiters found the same PDF you did because it was the first/easiest document to find. <S> I am always suspicious of the bargain priced items at the big-box. <S> Even legit brands often "make" items specifically for one big-box store. <S> If you have a part number that only associates with one big-box, run screaming. <A> I tried with Utilitech lights and with ballast removed to no avail. <S> I'm done with fluorescent anyhow. <S> They don't work very well in my garage for Michigan winters and don't last very long. <S> I'll get LEDs that don't need ballasts. <A> The Installation Guide contains important information and notes regarding the installation and operation of the InstantFit T8 lamps. <S> Please note the important points below: <S> Philips InstantFit T8 LED lamps are suitable to replace T12 fluorescent lamps <S> Philips InstantFit T8 LED lamps require non-shunted G13 (medium bi-pin) lamp holders (tombstones) <S> Philips InstantFit T8 LED lamps are intended for use in conjunction with a magnetic ballast. <S> Please do not connect the lamp directly to mains voltage 120/220/240/277 VAC. <S> Ensure all parts and accessories are in the package, including instruction guide, label, driver and InstantFit T8 lamp Modifications to the product <S> void the warranty Compatible with T12 <S> rapid start magnetic ballasts Please refer to www.philips.com/instantfit for the latest ballast compatibility guide <A> If the led tube comes with a 'starter' replace the original neon's starter with the one that comes with the led tube <S> and you'll be fine, <S> if no starter is supplied you will almost surely have to rewire the fixture excluding the ballast.
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I can confirm Phillips InstantFit work with ONLY specific ballasts and do not work without ballasts.
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How do you find helpers for larger DIY projects? Question : In cases where you have the time and skills to do a project yourself, but physically cannot without a second skilled person to help, how do you go about finding and hiring someone that is willing to work with you? Example : I'm planning to build a detached garage as an owner-builder. I know the applicable codes, drew the plans myself and have AHJ approval for them. I also have the carpentry skills and tools to do the framing. Unfortunately, I am physically incapable of doing certain tasks without additional hands, such as standing up walls and installing windows and doors. I'm trying to find someone that I can pay hourly to assist me for a week or two. I've gotten a list of framers from the local building supply store, but they want to do it all themselves with their own crew, not work with someone they don't know. I'm sure I could find "warm bodies" to hire, but I really need someone that has at least some relevant experience. What strategies do you use to find skilled assistance for larger DIY projects? <Q> Many community colleges offer construction trade courses. <S> Have a chat with the instructor, he can often offer enthusiastic young students who are ready and willing to provide some sweat as an on-the-job learning opportunity. <S> The students get class credit, the only cost to you is to buy them lunch and provide water, no insurance/license, etc. required because they are covered by the institution. <S> This is assuming the instructor finds your project suitable and the work area safe. <A> If you're in the US, and you want to work within the bounds of the law, contact a 'construction temp agency'. <S> They'll have insurance and workers comp. <S> They might seem expensive on an hourly basis, but probably worth the peace of mind. <A> One of the people who worked on building our new house also works with several groups of people in recovery and twelve step programs. <S> In some of these programs, people live in a halfway house or something similar and often really need spending money, even for things like a toothbrush or even just snacks. <S> We have a large lot with a lot of things that need to be done <S> and I've found these groups are eager to make arrangements so I can hire people in their program for about $10 an hour. <S> The catch is that I often have to guarantee a minimum (since it's a 40 minute trip out from the city to our place!) <S> so they know they won't be gone 3 hours for $10. <S> Also, I usually have to pick them up, since many times people in such a program may not have easy access to vehicles. <S> It's worked great for me so far and the people I hire are grateful for the chance to get out of their "home" and for the chance to make some spending cash. <A> I find there are three options in my area. <S> Your area may be different. <S> Community Agencies/Projects/Teams etc. <S> There are quite a few community based groups that can and will help. <S> The idea is that they help you with your project and you help with theirs. <S> Your not hiring someone, any more then you would be if you asked a friend. <S> It's just a neighbor helping a neighbor out. <S> Workman's Comp isn't an issue, as your not hiring, and insurance is "on your own" (meaning you have to provide it if you need/want to). <S> But with many "repairs" or "additions" Home owners general liability insurance may have you covered. <S> Again this situation is more like asking your friend to help out <S> then it is hiring an employee. <S> Area trade schools. <S> Certain rules apply, but essentially you pay the school and they use your project as part of their instruction. <S> The biggest downside is of course your on their time frame. <S> There are programs and option at some of the schools that allow for "on the job training" where you instruct, but the rest of the project falls under the school. <S> Again, this is very school dependent and there are usually some rules around safety and insurance. <S> As an aside, even if you don't want to use the schools full structure, they are usually willing to recommend their star students for you to hire. <S> In this case though you are hiring a person, even if just for a short time. <S> You should know your local laws for this. <S> "For Hire" companies. <S> These are agencies that hire out their staff. <S> You usually have to pay much more per hour then you would for a "warm body", but the agency covers much of the insurance and such. <S> Your essentially paying $X per hour and they fill that slot with someone they think is skilled correctly. <A> I must be reading the OP differently, he knows he can hire 'warm bodies' but I thought he wanted skilled assistance? <S> I call this 'Assisted DIY' <S> and it is something I do as a contractor quite often, I even keep a special page for it on my site, for example, (no queries, it's not a plug!) <S> https://handycrowd.com/shop/diy-plus/ . <S> Just contact local tradesmen as you would normally (I suggest asking friends and neighbours), stating what it is <S> you want doing (labour only assistance to build XYZ) <S> and anyone interested in the work will get back to you. <S> Personally I love doing this kind of work <S> , it's no hassle, no materials to organise, no real time pressure as you're on an hourly rate <S> and it's enjoyable passing on some tips and tricks as you work alongside the client. <S> I think this working method should be common, it halves the labour bill for the client, the client gets a better quality job, but still retains their job satisfaction, and it's easy work for the contractor. <S> Everybody is happy.
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There are many trade schools in my area that are willing to "hire out" students.
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How can I hide or dress up a large wall of debris? We have a large "debris wall," made up of stumps, tree trunks, and other leftovers from when our lot was cleared, to one side of our driveway. We considered having it removed, but it provides a privacy barrier between us and our neighbor. If we removed it, that would leave a wide open area. You can see, in the photo, part of the edge of the driveway in the lower left and again in the upper left, as it goes over a rise going to the house. There isn't much room between the debris wall and the driveway. You can also see part of the house. We worked hard on the house design and on the yard near the house to create the feeling, when you drive up, that you're entering a story book setting. It would be nice to find a way to hide, dress up, camouflage, or otherwise make this easier on the eyes. We considered ivy, but that can spread and get out of control easily (on both our side and our neighbor's side). If we plant trees or bushes, they'd have to go at least 20' high and block the view during the winter as well as the summer. Last summer a lot of pokeweed grew up on part of the wall and, while it's a weed, it's not ugly and helps hide the debris. But during the winter, when it dies out, while it's still easier to look at than the debris, it doesn't seem to want to grow on the end you can see in the photo. We'd like to hide it but make it look natural or at least interesting and not out of place with the mood we're creating for the house and yard. I wouldn't be opposed to building something, but that would be expensive and a lot of work if I just built some kind of wall along the 70' or so of this mess. Edit : This debris wall is at least 15' tall, maybe 20' in some places, from 50-70' long and maybe 30' or more wide. It's also not fully stable. While everything seems to have settled, there is no way I'd climb on it to reach the top or so I can spread or shovel anything on it. <Q> Plant desirable native shrubs and vines that would grow over the irregular surface and transform it into an aesthetically pleasing feature. <S> You might have to add soil to fill voids, and you could mix leaves into this soil for fill. <S> You could put up a barn owl box to entice one or a pair to live there and provide natural rat control. <S> If you don't have barn owls where you are, then you probably have screech owls. <S> We have had boxes for screech owls in our back yard for almost 40 years and they do some rat control, but not like a barn owl or barred owl <S> would. <S> Have you had any suggestions that in the current condition your yard is not in compliance with residential code? <S> We have a natural yard in a sea of manicured lots and we have gotten three citations for code violations over the past 10 years. <S> The underlying criticism is that our lot (10,000 sq ft) is not neat and <S> so surely must be in violation. <S> The code inspectors have so far ruled that our yard is in basic compliance under the xeriscape allowances in the city code, but they always find one or two technical violations or common violations that are mostly overlooked. <S> Last time the only thing we had to do was trim trees in front to be above 14 ft from the street surface. <A> The solution is simple - truckloads of manure. <S> (pokeweed does have some downsides, such as the poisonous but attractive to children berries.) <S> You'll have a brief period of some odor, but once the surface ages a bit there should be none. <S> You basically convert this mess into a mound, and after a few years, you'll have an area of deep, rich soil; <S> But you'll have the eyesore dealt with pretty much as soon as it's buried, and if you do it in winter you'll basically avoid the odor problem completely. <S> Most sources of horse manure are relatively (.vs other manures) high in bedding (shavings or straw) content, and this also pushes it to the forefront of my suggested manures, as that more quickly makes an inoffensive surface layer. <S> If you (or your spouse or neighbors) have a huge issue with deploying that much organic animal byproduct, an alternative approach is a similarly huge pile of spoiled/mulch hay. <S> You'll want 12-18" over the top of this mess at least, and you might need to renew it, as it will not pack in as well as manure does, so it may develop holes as it breaks down. <A> I have over 100 yards of horse manure and shavings behind my barn, I turn it 2-3 times a year and work in fresh regulary and it is the best organic compost you can find, we even load for free, if you want a trailer load delivered that cost because we have to pay wear and tear on our equipment. <S> Any one that would suggest a chemical over composted shit& shavings is part of the water runoff contamination problem in my opinion. <S> Once composted this will grow grass or just about anything, we usually deliver 50+ yards to a nursery every year <S> no chemicals in this stuff and my garden & flower beds grow quite well with just this stuff. <S> So I would agree with @Ecnerwal , it will provide a support system for plants on top and help to breakdown the debris underneath. <S> I thought I should add this my grandfathers farm had wonderful soil <S> we grew hay on 3/4 and grazed on the last 1/4 rotating fields every year and using a manure spreader before he died <S> I remember talking how his fields were 4-6 inches higher than his neighbor and his hay had more bales per acre <S> , he said it was because we recycled the cow manure where his neighbor used chemicals. <S> Except for the few years we did alfalfa <S> we did not need to water until the 3rd cutting where the neighbor had to regularly water (all this did take many years as my grandfather worked that land for almost 50 years same as the neighbor).
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Bury the mess in manure (horse is often easiest, but check your local sources) and the wood will rot down, while it will be easy to grow anything on top
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Why does my light box have 2 cables for this one switch? Took down a ceiling fixture and discovered what looks like a possible switch loop, except I don’t understand how the connection gets completed with the current set up. Basically, 2 lines coming into the fixture box. The black from line A is wired to the fixture, and the white from line A is essentially “capped off” (is cut short and contained within the insulated portion of line A). The white from line B is wired to the fixture, and the black from line B is capped off. Over at the single pole switch there is a black wire and white wire attached. This would make sense to me as a switch loop if the 2 capped off wires were joined together, but they’re not. <Q> I see that this is a 2-gang switch box, but the picture doesn't include detail of the other switch. <S> It looks like there was once a ceiling fan hung here and the extra wire would be for the fan, controlled by the second switch in the box. <A> That's bad. <S> The white and black should be used in every cable to prevent electromagnetic induction. <S> The only single conductor you should ever have in a residential electrical system is a ground wire. <S> You need to investigate this and correct it. <A> It looks to me there was a problem and someone just capped what they thought to be the hot.
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One cable should have the hot and neutral the other goes to the switch connect the hot to the white going to the switch the black coming back from the switch to the black of the light fixture, white to white and connect the grounds together. This was the code compliant way to wire switch legs a few years back, now the neutral has to go to the switch box but this dosent need to be updated for a repair or fixture replacement.
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Easiest way to dig trench along existing fence My friend cannot currently allow his dogs in his backyard because they dig under his privacy fence. I wanted to fix it for him and just planned on digging a trench (8-10inches deep, 6-8inches wide) and burying chicken wire. Then covering the chicken wire in gravel. Cost of rental not being a factor, mainly just time, what is the easiest way to dig that trench? It's a long enough fence that digging it manually seems like a bit much. Is there an excavator that can dig right next to the fence? Anyone solved this issue before? Thanks in advance <Q> In my experience, the easiest way to dig the trench is to let the dogs do the digging. <S> My former neighbor had dogs that would dig under her privacy fence. <S> Putting a few bricks in the places they had started to excavate was enough to dissuade them from digging further in those locations. <S> We used enough bricks to block the light through each hole they started. <A> I've used a trenching machine to install a sprinkler system. <S> Obviously, one does not need a particularly wide trench to bury plastic pipe, but the concept applies here. <S> The machine resembles a lawn edger in that it consists of a spinning blade and engine drive assembly. <S> If you picture a lawn edger, the blade rotates in the plane of the blade. <S> This trenching machine rotates the blade 90° to the edger types, a flat scraping type motion. <S> The device also covers the blade with a housing to direct the dirt excavated to one side and protects the operator as well. <S> EZTrench <S> is one such product. <S> I was able to rent the device for a reasonable fee in order to complete the sprinkler system installation. <S> Based on the video, it appears that you would have a trench about six inches from the fence line, as clearance is required for the discharge chute. <S> If the fence is not open construction, the excavated dirt will build up at the trench edge and may fall back in somewhat. <A> I think you should lay heavier wire than chicken wire. <S> Rather than dig a trench, what about laying wire on the ground and staking it in place with U-shaped stakes which hold it down?
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There are narrow trenching shovels that are handy for cleaning up the trench after excavating. The dogs will dig at first and the chicken wire might damage their paws.
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How do I seal my bedroom door for soundproofing/reduction? I have a hollow bedroom door in my apartment. I can’t make any modifications to the door that are permanent—nor can I replace it. Anyone outside the room can hear an interior conversation with crystal clarity. There are gaps (especially a massive one at the bottom)—I’m wondering the best way to completely and utterly seal this room for sound purposes (while also allowing it to be a usable door). Most advice I’ve seen advocated for foam weatherproofing—but foam apparently sucks at blocking sound. I’m also wondering if there’s something I can hang or put on my door to stop sound from going out. What would y’all recommend? <Q> Cut a piece of wood as a filler strip to fill the gap at the bottom of the door. <S> Next add adhesive backed smoke gasket to to top and sides of the door jamb. <S> Finally, if you still need additional sound proofing, you can put egg crate foam on the inside of the door. <S> I'm not sure how to temporarily attach it though. <A> A few options I found.. <S> Option 1 <S> : I found this product "Acoustidoor" but I haven't tried it. <S> It seems like a good fit for apartments with picky landlords. <S> Acoustidoor: <S> https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acoustidoor/ Hint: I was looking at the "AcoustiCurtain" (not the door) and talked to support, and they said this:"You will want to be sure and specify that the Velcro closure be swapped for a magnetic one, so that opening your AcousticCurtain will not make ripping noise and wake up anybody in the room. <S> "I'm <S> not sure if the door also uses Velcro like the curtain. <S> Option 2 <S> : You might want to see the answer here, which mentioned Audimute. <S> In the Amazon reviews, I see someone said they could remove the Audimute sweep with heat, but I'd recommend researching it yourself. <S> Here's the link to the question, which has some solutions: Soundproofing my bedroom door <A> Depending on your heat/ventilation, you may NEED that gap most of the time, it's a cheap shortcut for Heat/ventilation/air conditioning return air, quite often. <S> Block it up and the room may not get heated/cooled/ventilated as it should. Apartment, and you might need the gap, and you can't do anything permanent
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Screw it to the bottom of the door, and when you remove it nobody will see the screw holes since they're on the bottom of the door. suggest the "rolled up towel" or "draft snake" (long narrow sandbag) approach when you actually need sound isolation, and removing it when the lack of ventilation becomes a problem.
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Can I switch this outlet for a USB outlet? Does anyone know what kind of outlet is this one: ...and can I safely swap it with this one? Or is there anything power concerns that I should be aware of?? <Q> Your existing outlet (NEMA 6-20) is used for 240 volts while your USB/outlet (5-15) is designed for 120 volts. <S> Assuming the 6-20 is correctly wired, you cannot just replace it with the USB outlet. <S> As well as supplying the wrong voltage to anything plugged into it, the USB charger that is built in will probably die, possibly violently! <S> (The key to knowing that it is for 240 volts is that the right-hand slot is horizontal instead of vertical. <S> The T-slot on the left is for 20 amps and can accept either a 6-15 (15 amp) ot 6-20 (20 amp) plug.) <S> If you want to use the new outlet in that place, you will need to go into your fuse/breaker box and change the wiring to the outlet to 120 volts. <A> You would need a 240v USB outlet. <S> They are common everywhere <S> but north america, but <S> the issue is getting the US plugs as well. <S> If you just want USB (no AC), there's a ton of options because just about any universal or non-us adapter plate will work, and you don't have to match connectors: USB is the same worldwide. <A> It certainly resembles a standard outlet, doesn't it? <S> It's actually a NEMA 6-20 receptacle made for 240V. <S> I did a quick search for NEMA 6 <S> -20 receptacle+USB combos, and found none. <S> It is probably connected to the service panel with 12-2 cable, black/white/bare wires. <S> Except the white/black wires <S> both land on a 240V/20A breaker and are both hot. <S> No neutral. <S> If you just yanked this out and fit a common USB+receptacle combo, it would fry everything you plugged into it. <S> Inside the panel, it could be rewired to land the white wire on the neutral bar instead of the breaker. <S> The black wire can stay where it is. <S> Once this is done, you must also simultaneously change out the receptacle for the common NEMA 5 type (you know the one) <S> and yeah, you have a picture of a NEMA 5-15+USB one.
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The only places with US plugs and 240 are Japan and Columbia, so if you can find a combo USB outlet for those places it should work without rewiring or using bulky adapters. It's the same wire you use to hook up normal receptacles.
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How can I tell which wire to connect to a bayonett lamp connector? I have a white bayonet lamp connector that has no markings to show where to connect the brown and blue wires. Any suggestions? thanks. <Q> Wouldn't matter. <A> If it's bayonet in my understanding of the word, and it certainly looks like it is, since the picture plainly shows the J-hook. <S> The blue goes to the terminal that connects to the shell of the socket, i.e. The part with the little slots in it. <S> The brown goes to the nub in the middle. <S> This choice makes you less likely to be shocked while changing a bulb. <S> Cheapie LEDs often do a shoddy job of insulating the exposed parts. <S> But just the same, the engineers try to make it so if it fails, it fails with exposed parts faulting to the shell. <S> If you wire the socket correctly, this improves safety. <A> In UK wiring, it doesn't matter which wire goes where in that particular B22 bayonet fitting. <S> I'm guessing <S> the same is most likely true in Australia too. <S> Here's an equivalent fitting for a typical pendant lampholder <S> - you can see it is completely symmetrical. <S> Even with the type of lampholder with metal conductive bodies, there is no connection between either of the pins and the shell. <S> The shell has a separate ground connection. <S> Again the notional live and neutral elements are completetly symmetric - <S> it doesn't matter which one is connected to live and which to neutral <S> In fittings where it does matter, Live and Neutral will be clearly marked. <S> For example with "L", "N" and "⏚" or "E".
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Either wire to either side will complete the circuit once the bulb is in place. Blue is neutral and is designed to have a voltage near earth.
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Do I need to reuse these radiator connectors, or should I get new ones? I have finally got around to removing an old damaged Stelrad radiator - I have an identical one waiting to go on the wall but despite using a fair amount of force, the connectors don't appear to want to come off. Looking inside them, the olive seems quite damaged anyway. Is best practice to buy a new pair of these - and what should I ask for if so? I can get whatever measurements I need from them but am unsure what is important. Here are some pictures of the connections. Obviously these are the bottom of the radiator - I have inverted it to show more clearly. I can't see where to get a good grip: Detail inside: New radiator: <Q> what should I ask for if <S> so? <S> Radiator valve tails <S> I can't see where to get a good grip <S> Use a large allen key (hex key) <S> inserted into the bore. <S> Probably 12.7mm (½") <S> "radiator key" / "radiator spanner" Workarounds include Use a smaller allen key wedged in with a flat screwdriver <S> Attach an old/spare radiator valve, tighten the nut and turn the valve to unscrew the tail. <S> whatever measurements I need <S> I surmise they're standard across the UK. <S> My habit is to take the old parts to the store when buying replacements. <S> A specialist plumbers supply store will have someone knowledgable behind the counter. <S> Last time I did something like this (but not this), I walked in, silently plonked the old part on the counter, almost before it hit the counter the bloke behind it casually reached under the counter and then placed an exact replacement part on the counter next to mine and told me the price. <S> Source: How to Install a Radiator <A> The piece in your first photo is a Union . <S> I would replace all of them with new unions. <S> A union allows you to De-couple the radiator from the plumbing if you ever need to replace or remove it. <S> You will need a male thread on the radiator side to match the female threads on the radiator tail piece and the other side will need to match the pipe you are connecting to, ( male, female or solder.) <S> Since it is on the bottom you may need a 90 degree union, it will be dependent on your plumbing set up. <S> I would go to a dedicated plumbing supply house to insure you get the proper units. <S> You will want to use pipe dope or Teflon tape on the radiator side threads but NOT on the threads that couple the union together. <A> Look for a thin bodied clamping wrench. <S> I know it would be a pain <S> but you could soak the fitting in vinegar.
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I vote to replace everything.
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How should I remove corrosion like this from radiator connections In the process of replacing a radiator and there is a fair amount of corrosion around the connections. I plan on scrubbing as much off as I can with sandpaper or steel wool, but is there a recommended way to clear corrosion here? Or does it even matter that much if I can tighten the fittings up enough and use PTFE tape? <Q> You can clean the threads with a soft wire brush without being too aggressive and clean the tapered area very carefully with a very fine steel wool (not sandpaper), so as not to score the taper and cause a leak that can't be stopped. <S> Make sure to clean both pieces, the one on the radiator and the one in the picture. <S> Do not use teflon tape on the tapered area, use silicone only. <A> The easiest way: change the valve, it will cost between 8£ and 20£, so you can pick up the the chance to put on a thermostatic valve and save on heating. <A> does it even matter that much if I can tighten the fittings up enough <S> It matters, the olive is compressed against that taper and that is what makes the watertight seal. <S> and use PTFE tape? <S> There are plenty of people who do slather on PTFE or joint-compound <S> but you shouldn't really need PTFE tape on a compression fitting. <S> Cleaning it up (as per d.george's answer) is the right thing to do.
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If the tapered area is rough or deteriorated in any way, you could coat the tapered area with a thin coating of RTV silicone and tighten the union nut.
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Do old fluorescent light bulbs use less electricity? I've read that old fluorescent light bulbs produce less light over time. Do they also use less electricity, or do they use the same amount, but produce more heat? <Q> All lamp manufactures have the lamp curves, as the lamps are started it damages them a little and when running they are degraded but slowly. <S> The industry standard is the lamp is at end of life when the light output is below 50%. <S> Lamp life curve <S> The ballast controls the wattage consumed this stays the same for the life of the lamp until the contacts are eroded and cannot strike. <S> another lamp life example <A> I have never heard of the wattage being affected by age. <S> Temperature <S> yes. <S> I had to get this information directly from a high-bay light manufacturer as it is not published. <S> A T5HO ballast used the listed wattage when the test chamber was at 20 degrees Celsius. <S> But when the test chamber temp was increased to 25 degrees Celsius <S> the lumen output increased as did the wattage. <S> This explains why so many T5 fixtures had an efficiency greater than 100%. <S> They used the ballast wattage at the lower 20C and the fixture lumen output at the higher 25C. The lumen loss lines up well with the dirt loss. <S> As the lamp gets covered in dust, the light output decreases. <S> This would not affect the wattage. <S> At around 20 months, the light loss factor of fluorescent is about 0.9. <S> This is also about the dirt depreciation factor at 20 months. <S> https://ouc.bizenergyadvisor.com/BEA1/OMA/OMA_Lighting/OMA-12 <S> There may be some change in wattage as the mercury gets embedded in the glass over time. <S> Affecting lumen output and fixture wattage. <S> But I think the primary culprit is dust on the lamp and fixture surfaces which won't affect the fixture wattage. <A> It's a waste, here's two lesser-considered reasons why: Regardless of the actual lumens/watt of any particular old CFL, they are dimmer than new ones. <S> That means the consumer will inevitably turn on additional lamps to achieve the desired brightness. <S> This doubles the amount of power used for the task, even if the per-unit is the same old vs new. <S> Considering the electronics of the driver, things get more complicated than just phosphor wear. <S> The capacitors used on CFLs, esp cheap CFLs are prone to failure. <S> These are relatively high-voltage parts, which are expensive, leading manufacturers of bulbs, especially cheap ones, searching for the cheapest unit. <S> They don't need to last 10 years, so they are MTBF-spec'd for the task. <S> As they dry, they lose capacity. <S> As the capacitors lose capacity, the CFL driver must work harder to regulate output voltage. <S> This causes more heat, and we all know where heat comes from; power.
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I don't have before/after measurements on like bulbs, but i know that old ones (even if completely dark) still use power, unlike a tungsten filament.
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Which kind of locks should be installed on external wooden glass panel doors? When you have an external glass panel door it may be simple for a criminal to break a pane of glass to access the handle and lock inside. What types of locks are appropriate to install on a door of this type? I think a deadbolt of some type should always be installed, but I've seen what I think are "rim locks" installed some places which I don't think are secure. <Q> An ordinary door lock. <S> Double cylinder deadbolts, which require a key from either side, are in violation of the fire code many places. <S> It isn't a good risk trade off even if they are legal, especially considering you could change to a solid door in areas at a higher risk for crime. <S> Apparently, they do make key capture deadbolts which prevent removing the from the inside of a locked door. <S> When you're away from home it will prevent burglars which are too stupid or lazy to smash a window instead. <A> Double-keyed means that you have a lock cylinder on both sides of the door. <S> The downside is that if the deadbolt is locked, you still need to have a key to egress in case of emergency. <S> If you leave a spare key in the lock it defeats the purpose, so I've seen people attach a spare key to the door hanging from a piece of string long enough to operate the deadbolt. <S> An intruder wouldn't know to look for a key on the string as long as they didn't have past knowledge of your setup, but you can keep it on a table out of reach too. <S> The best solution is to have a double-keyed electronic deadbolt, so if you need to exit you can punch a 4 digit code into a digital keypad. <S> Worst case you could just jump out a window if the lock fails. <S> Another solution is to install security film to the glass, which also gets glued to the wood frame surrounding the glass. <S> This clear film is difficult to cut through, so even though the glass would break it would hold the glass together similar to how security glass with wire in it works. <A> I installed a Double Cylinder Deadbolt last week on door just like the one <S> you reference that waskeyed on both sides. <S> Instead of a manual throw knob it requires a key to actuate the dead bolt from either side so it can not be opened from the inside without a key. <S> The question of whether or not it safe in the event of a fire or earthquake is a serious concern and i can not speak to its legality or code compliance . <S> Are Double-Keyed Deadbolt <S> Locks <S> Safe <S> You should check with your municipality for code and laws.
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Install a double-keyed deadbolt if you're worried about someone breaking the glass and reaching in to unlock the door from the inside.
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What are these connectors on UK plug socket internal wiring? My friend is renovating an old house in the UK. I was interested to notice that all of the (removed) mains sockets had these plastic terminals on the ends of the wiring coming out of the wall. I've never seen these before - I would have expected bare wires, to attach to screw terminals on the socket fixtures. I understand that the wiring is pre-2004 standard, with red live and black neutral. What are these plastic connectors for? Are they intended to plug in to some particular design of socket fixture? To fit to a normal screw terminal socket, would these just be removed? <Q> In my area they are referred by there brand name Wago. <S> I only use these types of splices or connectors in fluorescent fixtures but they are or can be used as they are a listed connector. <S> Some contractors use them because they are quick to install and take up very little room in the box. <S> I have had to replace many outlets and switches that have this same kind of connection called back stabs <S> so I usually cut them off. <S> If your wire is on the short side they can be crushed to release & save the wire. <A> To me (from NL) this looks perfectly normal, two four-way push terminals to connect the lives and neutrals and a two-way-push to two-way-clamp connector for ground. <S> These things are touch save, so by leaving it like this you can turn on the breaker and still be safe. <S> And I'd consider a "normal screw terminal socket" anything but normal or modern, every socket I've bought and installed had push-type connectors. <S> To connect a socket I'd use a pigtail to connect to the terminals, or if space is an issue remove them and connect the wires directly to a socket. <S> (btw: the gray connectors are great for lamps, solid core push-in connectors on one side and the other side accepts flexible wire and are push-side-to-release. <S> No more tightening tiny screws while standing on a wobbly ladder holding a too-heavy lamp) <A> The orange ones look like Wago (or a clone) push-in wire connectors. <S> The grey one also seems to be some sort of wire connector <S> but i'm not sure exactly what. <S> They have been put on to the wires to insulate them and to maintain circuit continuity. <S> If you are going to re-fit the socket yourself just remove them before fitting your socket (obviously you need to isolate power to the circuit while doing this). <S> Really they should under a blanking plate or other suitable cover <S> but that would make it difficult to fit the wall-coverings, so they often get left open like this during construction/decoration work. <S> To get the wires out of the Wago push-in connectors twist back and forth while pulling them out. <S> I think the grey connector is probablly squeeze to release <S> but i'm not 100% sure.
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These are a type of splice that in your case was a safe way to terminate the wire in the bottom photo.
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71 gallon water heater doesn't maintain hot water Hoping someone can give me some thoughts on what might be going on here so I can be a bit more informed when I call a plumber. Situation is, we got our water heater replaced a few years back and ever since this has been an issue. It's more noticeable when it's cold outside it seems, but still seems to be a year round problem. Whenever we use hot water, we basically run out of it within minutes. In order to get an acceptable amount of hot water (enough to take a 10 minute shower), we literally have to prime the water first. By that I mean I have to turn on the hot water, let it run for a couple of minutes, then turn it off and wait 20 minutes. Then when we go to use the hot water again we'll get hot water for a respectable amount of time. Now I am fairly ignorant to all this, but it seems a 71 gallon hot water heater should be capable of holding enough water to not need to be primed like this. I should be able to take a 30 minute shower, let alone 10 without running out. My shower this morning was decently warm for maybe 2 minutes before it was just warm-ish. So if anyone can give me some ideas on what might be going on I would appreciate it. We've just put up with this for some years assuming perhaps it was some eco friendly thing. Like the system doesn't maintain much hot water in the tank so it's not always running and only heats water up when you start to use it? I hope that isn't the case though and even so, I should be able to get more hot water out of it. Any help? UPDATE Sorry everyone, I meant to tell you all that the water heater was gas. The pilot light is lit. I don't recall the specific model though I can look that up if people think it will help. I have actually turned up the thermostat on it above the default and when the water heater is putting out hot water, it can be very hot. Too hot. But again, that requires us to prime it before we get any decent amount of hot water out. UPDATE 2 Looked it up, I believe this is the model info if that helps anyone: State Select: High Output. Model number: GS675XRRS 300 <Q> This happened to me <S> when the water heater in a rental house was replaced by the landlord's "handyman". <S> Check that the cold inlet and hot outlet pipes on the heater weren't installed backwards. <S> The inlet should have a tube so that the cold water enters at the bottom of the heater. <S> The outlet should pull from the top. <S> That way the cold water pushes most of the 71 gallons of hot water out of the heater. <S> If you hook it up backwards, the cold and hot mixes immediately, and quickly becomes lukewarm. <A> Does your water heater make any gurgling or pinging sounds? <S> Have you flushed it recently, or checked the anode rod? <S> Even at half or a quarter capacity, though, you should still have enough hot water for a 10 minute shower, so again very unlikely but still something to investigate if mmackenzie's answer isn't the solution. <A> All the pipe fittings are on the top near each other. <S> What keeps water from short-circuiting from the cold water inlet straight over to the hot water outlet just a few inches away? <S> The cold line has a dip tube , which runs to the bottom of the heater to assure cold water fills from the bottom. <S> Thus, hot water rises like a tube of toothpaste giving you a nice long run. <S> If the dip tube has a problem, this will happen.
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It's unlikely for a newer heater, but an older one may be full of sediment, reducing its effective capacity.
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Sometimes need to tap sump pump for it to turn on. Common causes? I am an amateur, so ask all the stupid questions you need to. I have a submersible sump pump in my basement. It mostly works; however, from time to time, I have to tap the switch housing (I don't know what else to call it. I mean the little box that appears to house the connection between the float/switch and, I'm guessing, the motor) in order for the pump to turn on. The float appears to move freely up and down, but, of course, I can't tell when I have to tap the switch housing whether the float also suddenly rises to engage the switch. If I pull the float up by hand, the mechanism works fine. When I tap the switch housing, the pump successfully gets rid of all the standing water, even if that takes several minutes. This pump is about 2-3 years old. That's as much as I know to tell you up front. I'm looking for possible common causes, simple DIY tricks I can try to improve the situation, and signs that I might need to replace the pump. It appears to work in general, but, of course, I'd like it to be more reliable than this. Which seems more likely: the float is occasionally sticking and not rising and not engaging the switch or there is something loose between the switch and the motor that a light tap jostles just enough to make it work? or is there something else entirely I need to look at? Update : I did some simple testing today, and the float appears to work well. I filled up the pit both quickly and slowly (with a hose pointed away from the float) and the float rose in the pit every time. I tried spraying some water at the underside of the housing where the float slides up, in case that knocked loose some dirt or muck that might have been occasionally getting in the way. When I let the pit fill slowly over several minutes, the float appears to rise and all seems well. Again---at least as much as my amateur eyes can figure out. I'm happy to take more suggestions for what to try, either to find the cause or to rule other causes out. <Q> There are 2 things I have found with floats controlling pumps of all sizes. <S> The 2nd is burned contacts. <S> I have found with frequent cycling the contacts get pitted and may not close. <S> On larger pumps the contacts usually can be cleaned but on the smaller pumps they are not serviceable. <S> A tap on the pump many times will get the pump running for a while but once the contacts start failing a new switch will be needed. <S> Some pumps have provisions where the float has a cord and the pump has a cord. <S> In this case a new float is can be installed. <A> Most rod or lever actuated float switch mechanisms use a "snap switch" inside in order to avoid having the switch contacts "bounce" with the turbulence of the water on the float itself. <S> Your snap switch may be corroded and sticking too long as the float mechanism rises against it, so when you tap it, you are freeing it. <S> On most of them, those snap switches are replaceable and inexpensive. <A> The pump itself may also be nearing the end of its usable life.
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The first is corrosion and dirt buildup limiting float travel so the foot sticks and the contacts are open until tapped.
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Difference between angle grinder and circular saw From what I've read on google, angle grinders and (portable) circular saws appear to be quite similar. Aside from a circular saw being perhaps a bit larger and maybe having some supports on the bottom, is there any major difference between an angle grinder and a circular saw? Thanks. <Q> Different power gearing speeds collets <S> tool diameters <S> direction of forces means of use climb vs conventional accessories <S> ability to sand or wirebrush <S> I think even if you managed to fit a sawblade on a grinder, you would have a completely uncontrollable tool that would be impossible to successfully engage to any work except for cars full of lost college students who make very poor decisions and scream a lot. <S> While that may sound like fun, in the end Final Girl will kill you. <A> Generally speaking, they're both "circular". <S> Pretty much anything that spins a blade is "circular" - miter saw, table saw, chop saw, trim saw. <S> So, if this is for an answer on a tech school test, i'd run with that :). <S> If you're specifically referring to handheld circular saw vs. an angle grinder <S> I think there are many differences as stated, speed and power being key, but the main I see, is that a handheld circular saw has a base/guard that can be adjusted for depth and angle. <S> This base is held against the material you are working with to cut in straight lines. <S> An angle grinder has a perpendicular handle and is intended to be used free hand to run sand pads, grinding wheels, metal cutting disks, flap disks... <S> you name it. <S> I think you could shape wood with the sanding pads and other disks on an angle grinder, but I think any kind of a blade intended for "cutting" wood is an ER visit waiting to happen. <S> On a circular saw, you can get blades for cutting metal, and it works well if you're cutting a lot of sheet metal or thinner plate. <S> I think any kind of a blade for shaping or grinding metal with a circular saw is another ER visit waiting to happen. <A> Circular saw is for wood. <S> Angle grinder is for metal.
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They're all spinning blades, but when you say "circular" most think of a "handheld" circular saw usually used for cutting wood. "Angle grinder" is referring to a specific tool.
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Can I convert galvanized ducts to wood stove black ducts by coating it with high temp RustOleum paint? I compared the black ducting for wood stoves with regular galvanized ducting and found that they are both 24 gauge and I noticed they are both steel since both tug magnets. There is quite a large price difference in addition to not as much stocked variety for the black pipe. The galvanized is ubiquitous with all sorts of adapters and sizes available. Black pipe is available only in 6 and 8 inch diameters. I had an idea of spray painting the galvanized duct with high temperature resistant RustOleum. Would this work? <Q> 24-gauge is 24-gauge. <S> However, the the silver type round pipe is coated with a rather inexpensive galvanizing coating. <S> This coating is to inhibit rust. <S> The galvanizing keeps oxygen and moisture away from the raw metal. <S> These elements will discolor the metal, causing the metal to oxidize and rust, thus shortening the life of the metal. <S> Now for the down side of you situation. <S> When the galvanized coating gets too hot as in when used as a wood stove chimney vent the the galvanizing burns off and in the process produces a dangerous gas. <S> If this gas is inhaled the result will be sickness and even death. <S> Sorry you are going to have to put up the money for the black stuff. <S> Top coating this with paint no matter the quality is not enough to ensure protection against this off gassing. <A> Yes, just remove all the zinc galvanizing using a well vented media blast cabinet. <S> You'll need to do that anyway to get paint to stick. <S> Also check other vendors. <S> Some people emotionally chain themselves to the local big-box store. <S> They know this and stiff you on anything you're not likely to price check. <S> I regularly catch them asking 3x what the thing costs at the electrical supply, case in point 120mm boxes or conduit barrel connectors. <S> So try HVAC supply, stove supply if you have one, or your local lumberyard. <S> Also realize all magnetic steel is not the same alloy. <S> Steel performance varies dramatically depending on the alloy. <S> Some alloys are much harder to work, require hot vs cold rolling, or have expensive alloying metals. <S> Naturally that is reflected in the price. <A> I say they are both poor choices . <S> Look for 13 Cr stainless steel , it is magnetic <S> ( what modern auto exhaust systems are made with ) <S> .Second <S> choice is thicker carbon steel , galvanizing makes little difference . <S> Because a wood stove can get very hot, I greatly doubt that any paint available to the consumer will help. <S> Zinc melts about 700 F and then forms intermetallics with iron and stays on the pipe ( unless corrosion with water exposure removes it). <S> Zinc starts to vaporize above 1600 F <S> ( yellow hot - do not let your flue get this hot. ). <S> Zinc vapor oxidizes immediately in air. <S> Zinc oxide is generally no problem , wives tale aside. <S> HOWEVER, fresh zinc oxide , less than an hour old , can cause zinc chills, = oxide shakes, = brass founders ague . <S> Having had this myself , I can promise it clears up in about 48 hours. <S> I should have said you want double wall flue pipe ; stainless or carbon steel. <A> The stove/fireplace exhaust parts are typically triple-wall and are totally different in terms of their construction and connection methods. <S> HVAC ducting is simple single wall sheet metal with leaky joints that you cover with foil tape. <S> It's not an issue of galvanized vs painted.
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You cannot use HVAC ducting for a wood fireplace or stove exhaust.
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Connect 4" Dryer Vent Duct to 4" Exhaust Pipe I just had a new dryer installed. The installer said I needed to buy a pipe reducer because the dryer vent duct and the exhaust pipe are both 4". He cut some holes in the dryer vent duct to fan it out and taped around it but said it will leak air and lint until a reducer is added. Will this reducer work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/100149942 Or should I buy something else? Thank you. <Q> At the least, buy this . <S> The reason it is the least, is lint will still get trapped in the edge that goes into the flexible part. <S> Joints should be placed so the moving air flows over the joint, not into the joint. <S> The reducer you have at first will restrict the flow, and still have the joint facing in the wrong direction, although you would not need to cut the flexible pipe. <S> The corrugated ends of the piece I linked to will fit inside each end of the vent pipe and the flexible duct, and minimizes restriction. <S> There is a tool to do that reducing, any duct man worth his salt has this. <A> No, that is the wrong size. <S> I don't think you need a reducer, you need a connector because both the pipes look very close in size to each other. <S> Measure the connectors physically in the store. <A> The person who installed the duct work in the wall put the wrong end facing you. <S> For 4" dryer vent, the flanged side always points AWAY from the dryer and the smooth side always points TOWARDS the dryer. <S> (get a new section of pipe) but it's much harder to fix it in the wall.
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It would be best if the flexible pipe was reduced in the same way, then the air would flow over the joint the proper way. Measure the outside diameters of both pipes and head into the store. It's relatively easy to fix this from the dryer to the wall
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Can I have dimmable LEDs in a corded lamp? For a couple of bedside/reading lamps I want to use LEDs, but even the dimmest bulbs I've seen in the shops are about 250lm and still too bright for the purpose. So I've come to consider a dimmer. The lamps are corded with the sockets well out of reach, so I'd like to install an inline dimmer on the cords like this one for example . But I've been told you can't get trailing edge inline dimmers, so we're back to incandescent or halogen bulbs, which I'd rather avoid. I've also seen LED bulbs with built in dimmers which can be operated by remote, but the only E14 type I've found is online and they look a bit shoddy . So my question: What's a good solution for dimmable LEDs in a corded lamp? Fitting is E14. Edit: Seems you can get inline LED dimmers . <Q> I don't think you need to consider leading or trailing edge at all. <S> Incandescent dimmers are leading edge and government energy regulations (e.g. Energy Star) lead to broad compatibility with them. <S> You can see from this list that even CFL/LED dimmers are leading edge, yet they are compatible. <S> I suggest checking the compatibility lists , looking for a LED marketed plug-in dimmer, and trying it out. <A> There are plug-in units for outlets that utilize a wireless control and can dim compatible LED lamps. <S> Search for plug-in remote dimmer switch Images and links for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> They make reducers which allow you to convert an E14 base into a Candelabra (American E12) base or presumably European E11. <S> There are legions of LED products for E12, and they get as dim as night lights <S> - I'd imagine the same for E11. <S> Does the lamp have a bezel or shade? <S> If so, you can put cinematic gels inside the shade. <S> A light gray filter will do - add layers for more attenuation. <S> This used to have a tendency to melt or blanche the gel over the long term due to incandescent's heat and UV, but that's not a big issue on LEDs.
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Speaking for US products, personally, I have a Cree bulb running on a Lutron C*L (designed for CFL/LED compatibility) plug-in dimmer just fine.
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Wiring toggle switch (on/off/on) to PIR motion sensor and led strip I would like to set this up so the first on position goes through the motion sensor and the second on position would be for just turning the led strip light on and bypass the motion sensor. When I set this up the motion doesn’t work. Both on’s create a circuit though. It seems that it may be due to the (-) black wire may be what the PIR uses to cut the circuit. Does anyone have an idea how to wire this? <Q> I think you will need to jumper the blacks, it should not be a problem that is now your ground or common. <A> On the PIR, you are shorting V- in and V- out . <S> Are you positive the documentation says they are bridged together? <S> If so, you can omit one wire. <S> If not, that's half your problem. <S> Also you are switching the inlet of the PIR, meaning you are severing power to it. <S> If they also monitor day/night, it helps them to go through a couple of 24hr cycles to learn what your location's highs and lows are. <S> These units do not have expensive NVRAM: <S> If you sever power, it's like a factory reset. <S> So supply + and - to the PIR inputs at all times. <S> Put the PIR output on one switch leg, constant power on the other, and to the LED in the middle. <S> Whether you switch + or - should depend on what the PIR switches... check its docs. <S> If you are not sure, get a DPDT and switch both. <A> If you take all wires out and use a Multimeter Are the V+'s connected or the V-'s connected? <S> Whichever one is not connected you can use a SPST switch to bridge that side. <S> this will eliminate a bunch of wiring and allow you to have the minimal circuit that works for your desired application. <S> My guess looking at the device is that the V+'s are connected, since they are next to each other on the circuit board and the V-'s are switched. <S> if neither of them are connected then they are using a DPDT relay, I would then choose one, V+ or V- to short across, and then use the single SPST switch to bridge the other side.
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If you can confirm that one of those wires is bridged inside the PIR, you can nut them all together, eliminate one of them to the PIR (redundant) and use a single-pole (SPDT) switch. The led will fire up when in that position and the motion sensor will light the led in that position. PIRs often need to "get a sense of the lay of the land" which they then store and use as a reference for "unoccupied".
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Should gaps be left between sheets of drywall for any reason? My cousin says I should leave 1/4" space between all edges of drywall so that mud can be pressed into it. Everything I've read online say to butt them tight. When is leaving a gap a good idea? <Q> It really doesn't matter, I would run them tight, it uses less mud. <S> If a gap occurs, don't sweat it. <S> I have never seen a drywall crew intentionally set gaps. <A> I think you run a pretty fair chance of pushing enough mud right out the back of a 1/4" gap that gobs of it will fall off inside the wall and be wasted. <S> Leaving a big gap just isn't a concern. <S> Put a nice coat of mud under the joint tape, squeeze it into the joint, then put another coat over the top of the tape and feather it out. <S> The mud will adhere to the drywall, fill the joint holding the sheets together, and the tape will be embedded inside the coat of mud strengthening the whole joint. <S> Drywall mud shrinks as it dries. <S> The bigger the gap, the more times you'll have to go over the same seam with extra coats of mud to pull it out level with the wall. <S> Otherwise, you would have a very visible groove running down the length of your wall. <S> Also consider that it's the paper on the front and back that holds a sheet of drywall together. <S> The mud adheres well to the paper, to the drywall tape, and to any exposed gypsum on the cut edges of the panels when it is skimmed on. <S> But if you leave too large of a gap, you end up with bigger globs of mud, which you can knock loose in one chunk. <S> You could actually bump that gap with something, like a furniture corner, and knock a line of joint compound loose from the edges of the sheetrock panels so that there's a flexible 1/4 strip of dried mud floating in that 1/4" crack, only being held in place by the tape on the front. <S> I'm absolutely certain I've seen exactly that, at least once. <S> Set the sheets tight together. <A> Though I have seen in commercial construction (where walls are often 50-500 feet long of continuous drywall) where there are deliberate expansion joints set. <S> These help control cracking on long walls (similar to putting expansion cuts in concrete). <S> Typically there is a small gap between drywall sections which allow a special expansion piece to be mudded into place (similar to typical inside/outside corners used at the edges of drywall). <S> It is then finished like any other joint, except that the expansion gap isn't filled in which allows the joint to flex slightly without cracking the drywall. <S> ( source ) Other than this, drywall sections should probably always be butted against each other and the joint finished with tape and mud. <A> To me it would matter if you are hanging sheets horizontally or vertically. <S> If they are horizontal it would not matter as much <S> but if vertical having a space provides less support and a bowed stud may almost no room for screws without breaking the edge. <S> In both cases I usually butt them tight. <A> After seeing the reference in a previous comment about the "Do's and Don'ts Of Drywalling" recommending a 1/8" gap, I decided to take a look at the reference. <S> The gap is recommended for the edge of inside corner pieces that you need to cut. <S> This is because if you cut it a little too wide, you can mess up the edge forcing it into place. <S> It does NOT recommend gaps between full sheets. <S> In fact is gives a photo of butt joints with no gap. <S> The reference does have good points. <S> If you are a novice, it is worth reading. <S> Also, like several other people have noted, if you add 1/8" to every sheet, you're going to run out of studs to nail/screw to after a while. <A> I also use "hot mud", which is the dry powder mixed with water that sets via a chemical reaction similar to concrete. <S> It's MUCH stronger, harder, and holds better. <S> I also don't use paper tape - I prefer the mesh tape as the paper tape never seems to bond well at all, regardless of any gap or no gap between sheets. <A> According to The Do’s and Dont’s Of Drywalling . <S> One of the biggest mistakes is not leaving a 1/8 in gap in your joints . <A> ive been doing this 34 years and never heard of leaving a gap between sheets. <S> just doesnt make sense. <S> sheets are 4 x 8 typically and framing is 16 on center. <S> like someone else said your run would grow even on just a few sheets across. <S> i do alot of commercial drywall and we usually stand the sheets up so 4 ft <S> 1/8 would grow fast in a big room. <S> honestly never had a problem <S> make them nice and tight , its a better job imo <A> Most houses are 70F year round so allowing for thermal expansion isn't really something you need to worry about. <S> If the space is unheated (and -20F) for weeks at a time you might want to think about cracking coming from thermal expansion/contraction. <S> Similarly, the paper on the outside of the sheetrock and a coat of latex paint seems little it would inhibit moisture induced expansion (unlike a hardwood floor, where expansion can make a too tight floor push a wall out of plumb!) <S> It just makes the taping slower .
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You can (and should) squeeze drywall mud into pretty small cracks. It is better to run drywall tight into the corners, it makes taping easier than having a gap. There's no reason to engineer gaps between sheets. Like the other answerer, Jack, I've never seen drywall in any residential or commercial installation intentionally set with large gaps. I typically leave a gap about the thickness of the taping knife, so 1/16th or less.
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How can I store a paint roller for a second coat? It's my first time using paint rollers, and I have a problem. How do I store a paint roller cover for 2 hours so that I can use it for a second coat? <Q> Wrap the roller in aluminium foil. <S> Or in cling film. <S> I've stored rollers this way for 2 weeks, though you do risk it getting a bit dry and crusty at the edges for that sort of longer period. <S> For 2 hours you'll be fine. <S> The point of wrapping it is to stop air getting to (or getting away from) <S> the paint that's on the roller. <S> Solvent paint (i.e. most paint) dries by evaporating the solvent into the air - if there's no air it can't easily evaporate. <S> (If you're in the US, feel free to use aluminum foil or saran wrap instead...) <A> Squeeze most of the air out. <S> This works well for 24-48 hours. <S> Longer than that <S> and you'll start to get drying on the edges of the roller and the brush. <S> Tools should be cleaned for longer storage. <A> I have stored rollers for many days by taking a shop towel or paper towel and getting it wet, i ring it out <S> so it is damp and not dripping. <S> I then spread it out flat, take the roller and place it on the edge of the towel and roll the roller so that the towel rolls up around it. <S> I then roll that up in plastic or place in a Ziploc type bag. <S> The damp towel allows it to keep longer than in just plastic alone. <S> I did pick up some wet roller zip type storage bags at a locally owned hardware store in the paint section that worked great, they are exactly the right size for a roller. <S> I still use the damp towel for long term and to avoid the mess of fitting the roller into the narrow zipper opening. <S> I do not know the brand name. <A> For latex paint (you fail to specify, but it's what's common) <S> the supposedly quick & easy option is to wrap in plastic wrap, then seal in a bag, then put in the freezer. <S> I don't actually bother with that, as the standard cleanup is hardly any more difficult and does not involve finding freezer space for a non-food item. <S> Wash the roller and pan with a hose until it seems basically clear, then wash with soap and warm water, then rinse throughly, and finally let dry (clean off all paint residue.) <S> 2 hours, 2 days, 2 weeks or 2 years, this method works... <S> Oil-type-paints are more of a pain due to the solvent not being water. <S> Your second question should be a second question (i.e. delete from this one and ask it separately) but probably has most to do with " dipping paint roller in bucket of primer " rather than using a proper roller tray. <S> Inexperienced painters often think they are saving time and trouble by painting right out of a can, rather than using a roller tray. <S> This could not be further from the truth. <S> The small loss of paint in cleaning the roller tray is trivial, and results are much improved when the roller is properly loaded. <S> When dipping it in a bucket, you overload the roller, at least on the side you dip; if you dip the whole thing you also get paint where it should not be in the roller bearings & interior, and overload the whole thing. <S> Too much paint on a roller causes it to slide like a wheel in mud, rather than rolling.
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I simply load the roller (to keep it moist), lay it in my tray, along with the brush, and wrap it with a kitchen trash bag.
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Why did concrete screws feel loose when installed in a brick wall? I am trying to secure a floating mantle shelf over a brick fireplace wall. I used 2 3/4" 3/16 tapcon screws to secure the strip of wood to a brick wall but the wood strip did not hold securely The tapcon 3/16" screws called for a 5/32 mortar bit hole which I used, but when I drilled the tapcon screws into the mortar they felt loose, as if the hole was too big. Any guesses as to what might have gone wrong? Any suggestions as what type of fasteners would work better in securing the wood strip to the brick wall? <Q> Tapconing into a mortar joint is to be avoided. <S> See the discussion here . <S> And the one here about how 3/16" are garbage. <S> Use 1/4". <S> If the Tapcon goes into a mortar joint <S> it's pull out <S> strength will depend on the compressive PSI of the mortar and the depth of the mortar joint in combination with the length & diameter of the Tapcon. <S> – <S> forums.jlconline.com <A> Tapcons are great for simple fasteners, but aren't that great for something like this. <S> I would highly suggest installing a sleeve anchor of some sort. <S> You'll get better traction on the brick/mortar and it will penetrate the surface easily. <S> If you're absolutely set on using Tapcons, I find a toothpick shoved in the hole can sometimes give it the missing bite (but I've only used it on simpler things like a bird feeder). <S> Use with caution on a mantle. <A> had the same issue with the Tapcons not gripping......find out after multiple trips to the hardware store and talking to some seasoned contractors to use a bit smaller by a size or 2 then the one they recommend. <S> Pretty easy solution <S> but you figure the maker of the product is giving the right info but not always.
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For something as substantial as a mantle, I would not use simple Tapcons.
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Installing Tile on a painted wall with satin finish I am redoing out laundry room and would like to put tile on a wall that is already painted. The paint is a satin finish and is in good condition as it is only 2 yrs old. Is it ok to just spread the adhesive and install directly on the painted wall? Or should I do something else to prepare it? Thanks! <Q> Make sure you let it cure out all the way. <S> Most mortars and some mastics heat up as they cure. <S> This means it can it can make the paint release from the wall, much like removing wall paper. <A> Scratch it up with coarse sandpaper, maybe as fine as 100 grit or as coarse as 60, or perhaps as rough as 40 or 32 grit. <S> no magic number here. <S> Just enough to allow the mastic to grip to. <S> Mask off the edges to protect surrounding areas from the mastic and sanding, sand enough to see scratches on the paint, no need to burn through to the paper. <A> I agree with a simple surface roughing with sandpaper as @Jack suggests. <S> I would take a different strategy to preserve the wall later down the road if you need to change out a tile, or want to tear it down. <S> I would spend the extra and use a backerboard so when you pull down the tile it would potentially damage the backerboard opposed to the sheetrock. <S> Typical backerboard installation suggests using backerboard screws, but using a broad crown stapler or galvanized nails would also work, again to better help preserve the original wall. <S> I would use this type of backerboard found at <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/James-Hardie-HardieBacker-3-ft-x-5-ft-x-1-4-in-Cement-Backerboard-220022/100183556 <S> You can also use this type found at https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Durock-Brand-1-4-in-x-3-ft-x-5-ft-EdgeGuard-Cement-Board-170215/304218901 , <S> but I don't like it as much
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The safest way to do that is to apply a scratch coat first, using whatever mortar or mastic youll be using to install the tile.
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Leveling out a basement floor So I am in the process of finishing out my basement. I am going to start by first building my office, and later doing the rest of the basement. My basement is divided in half, and I have the typical metal floor to support beam jacks running down the middle. The floor also slopes towards these jacks, and back towards the back of the house, where the cleanout for the sewer is. When I install the 2x4 framing, one side of the room is going to be lower than the rest. In measuring, it's 7 feet exactly on the low side, and 7'-4" on the high-side. That's a 4" difference in height between the two sides. Can I just pour some self leveling cement on it and let it fix itself? If so, hoe do I know how much to mix up so I don't make the new area higher than the rest of the floor? What are some solutions to remedy this? <Q> It is designed to help support drainage to one end of the basement in the event that there is ever an accumulation of a large amount of water into the basement space. <S> You should ask yourself if it feels awkward to walk around on the existing floor with its slope. <S> Most likely it is not a big problem at all. <S> The varying length of the studs should not be a problem because you are going to be cutting them all anyway from the standard lengths that you can buy. <S> They come either as 8' long or as studs they will be 92 5/8" long. <S> After you have finished out your office it there is a need for anything like a bookshelf or a desk to be perfectly level or plumb <S> all you have to do is to shim under it with wedges or adjust its legs. <A> Now is the time to do it, 1 open area is much easier then going in and around framing. <S> Find the high point of the floor, i use a laser to transfer that spot to the wall. <S> Next use this mark to install a level ledger board around the room. <S> The bottom of the ledger is the top of the poor, takes guess work out of it. <S> Its best to have 2/3 people helping you, 1 to mix, 1 to pour, 1 to spread and blend pours. <S> Self leveler is not self spreading, you have to move it where it needs to be. <S> Pick up a cheap pair of cleated shoes so you can walk into the pour and smooth it out. <S> Be sure to respect any control joints and expansion joints. <S> Do it now and make your life easier when its time to frame and finish. <A> Certainly, its not ideal <S> but if your that far into then go for it. <S> Dont forget to get some cleated shoes, you'll have to get in there to spread it and be effective.
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First be sure to dress and properly prime the area. I think you should just leave the floor slope as is.
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Is there any reason testing the neutral line on a dimmer light socket wouldn't work? I am repairing a vintage lamp and replacing the socket with a dimmer socket. When I do a continuity test on the old socket, both the hot and neutral lines work. That is, they make a high-pitch noise telling me the circuit is closed. Now, when I try this same test with the new dimmer socket, the continuity test only works on the hot line. I don't get any indication of a closed socket when testing the neutral line. Conventional wisdom tells me that there is something wrong with this socket, but I actually went back to the store and tested another socket, and experienced the same thing. The old socket is dead-simple -- there are no special electronics in it. The new dimmer socket is a lot more complicated with a potentiometer, capacitors, resistors, etc: My question is, is there a logical/electrical reason that this socket works correctly, but doesn't give me a successful continuity test on the neutral line? <Q> Figure 1. <S> A typical triac-based dimmer switch schematic. <S> Source: Homemade circuits . <S> Your continuity check is being interrupted by U1, the triac. <S> Read the linked article for more. <A> As you have wired it, the neutral is not continuous. <S> There is a slug of electronics in the way. <S> (again at the risk of stating the obvious). <S> Unless you are an electronics expert and willing to do the modeling of what will happen , you should expect unpredictable results when applying a continuity tester or any tester. <S> That is okay IF turning the knob all the way to the "hard off" position <S> operates a mechanical switch which cuts the hot line. <S> Make sure you are using components from reputable vendors <S> which are listed by UL, CSA, TUV or other independent testing lab. <S> These marks are often faked. <S> CE is not a testing lab. <S> Vendors unsuitable for equipment that goes into mains wiring <S> include: eBay, Alibaba/Ali Express, Amazon Marketplace etc. <S> Amazon, unfortunately, obfuscates the source of their items, you need to know what to look for: Not to condemn those particular vendors <S> , I've used uxcell myself, just not in mains wiring or any other life-safety application. <A> Because the dimmer contains a whole bunch of electronics that's designed to work on AC mains voltage. <S> It may barely conduct at the tiny DC voltage <S> your multimeter puts out. <S> But I'd be worried that you have continuity on live, but not neutral. <S> That suggests that the dimmer is in the neutral line. <S> So when the dimmer is turned right down, the lamp is off, but the socket is still live. <A> Check the wiring for MT1, MT2 or A2,A1 on the schematic in @tranny's answer such that MTI1 or A2 is switched hot to lamp.
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I am a little concerned that the dimmer is on the neutral side. This is a semiconductor switch which can vary the amount of the mains waveform getting through. The continuity tester tests continuity , at the risk of stating the obvious. You should have continuity to the neutral wire on the plug to the threaded base and the MT1 connection on the Line connection to the bulb centre should be high impedance ( until turned on. )
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How to repair rotted sill plate on foundation concrete pony wall and adding height to concrete wall I have an end unit townhouse built in 1986. It's three stories including the garage level, and it's built on a slope. The garage level opens to the street in the back, but that level is below grade on the opposite side (front) of the house. To accommodate the grade change, there is a vertical jog in the foundation wall on the side of the townhouse, so the foundation wall becomes a pony wall. The problem is that the foundation wall jogs down too low too soon, and it is now below grade in one area, leading to a rotting sill plate and sheathing: Note that the Great Stuff is my doing - a temporary fix to seal things up. There hasn't been meaningful water infiltration in this area, but it does appear that at some point mice got in there (they definitely haven't been there in at least a year). The landscaping is in the control of the condo association. Although I could go to them and ask them to have the landscapers regrade, there's no guarantee in continuity in the landscaper, or any kind of institutional memory even if we retain the same one, so this problem could just reoccur the next time they add mulch. So, since I need to replace the rotted sill plate anyway, I'd rather just try to come up with a solution that avoids the possibility of reocurrence by cutting away the rotted studs and sill and adding 6-12 inches of height in concrete along the ~2-3 feet of foundation pony wall. This would also require adjustments to the exterior siding, but that seems easy enough. The questions are: 1) Does this make sense, or is there a better alternative? 2) Does the wall need to be supported while I do this, and if so, how? Can I just screw some 2x4s to the studs above where I'm going to cut them, and have those run down to the floor at an angle? If it's relevant, this is a gable wall. Also, you can see the trusses running perpendicular to this wall that support the floor above - the light is attached to one, and the other is right above the wall on the right. Appreciate any suggestions! <Q> Since the soil should be 6" below (in my area code) <S> I would verify building code and have association regrade the area as it is causing the rot from the violation. <A> I like Ed Beal’s idea about regrading. <S> It’s permanent and less expensive than adding a section of concrete wall. <S> (There’s no guarantee that the concrete joint won’t leak either.) <S> The joist visible in the picture seems to rest on the wall that is above the plate that needs to be replaced. <S> This is an indication of the floor joists above. <S> If you’re replacing just 2’ to 4’ section, then you won’t have a problem not bracing the upper wall, unless there’s a refrigerator or waterbed directly above that section of wall. <S> Btw, you say you’re in the end unit. <S> That tells me you need an architect’s or engineer’s stamp to do the work. <S> (4,000 s.f. <S> Or 20’ high from lowest floor to highest ceiling.) <A> Build a 2-3 course retaining wall to hold back the soil. <S> Excavate the area, create a base, completely bury the first course, and go from there. <S> It doesn't need to be a long wall, but I would make it 2-3 feet long, just long enough to look like it belongs there. <S> You're right about a simple regrade job not working over time. <S> Screws and a 2x4 might work fine, but I would nail a 2x10 to the studs with 16d duplex nails. <S> Open any windows above this area when you remove the sill plate so they don't break. <S> Have a hydraulic jack and a 2x6 ready in case you have to jack the 2x10 up, or be prepared to go purchase one quickly. <S> Replace the sill plate with treated southern pine so it doesn't rot again. <S> Don't add concrete here. <S> If you think that looks silly, you can also use a treated southern pine 4x4 or 6x6 to do the same thing.
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If you really want to prevent the studs from rotting, then add a double/triple/quadruple treated sill plate. In a 3 story I would not want to try patch work on cement foundation without an engineering stamp of approval.
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Is a duplex receptacle counted as one or two outlets for branch calculations? When counting receptacles or outlets for a branch circuit (where the limit is typically 10 or 12 outlets), does a typical duplex receptacle count as one or two? It seems that they each count as two, but I'm having trouble finding something that clarifies that (one post I saw said two on the same yoke count as one). I'm wiring up an electronics lab space and I need lots of outlets. This is usually solved with long power strips containing 10 or more outlets. I wanted to put in three 2-gang boxes with duplex receptacles in each spot. That's 12 or 24 outlets, depending on the interpretation. So, is this one or two receptacles/outlets? Thanks! <Q> There is a limit on the number of plugs for non-residential projects. <S> NEC 220.14(I) <S> Each yoke is counted at 180 VA. <S> If there are (4) or more outlets then it is counted as 90 VA per outlet. <S> What you are describing, a double gang box, with (2) duplex outlets will equal 360 VA. <S> Having a total of (3) pairs of duplex outlets will be 360 * 3 = 1080 VA. <S> Since each duplex is 180 VA it can also be counted as 180 * 6 = 1080 VA. <S> The long power strips that you are used to with 10 or 12 outlets is commonly called plugmold. <S> In the NEC it is referred to as a fixed multioutlet assembly. <S> Per NEC 220.14(H) <S> the load depends on if the plugs get used simultaneously or not. <S> Simultaneous use equals 180 VA per foot of length. <S> Non-simultaneous use equals 180 VA per 5 foot length. <A> First of all let me point out that there is an NEC limit to the amount of receptacles you can put on a circuit (see Exhibit 220.4). <S> Second I have attached the page in 220.14 in the NEC hand book that answers your question on how your receptacles are counted on a circuit(Exhibit 220.3). <S> Feel free to read the entire page. <S> I would suggest that since you are indicating you are installing quad's for a tech bench you actually use the calculation for "Fixed Mutlioutlet Assembly" NEC article 220.14 (H). <S> I have attached that page also (see Exhibit 220.2). <S> Keep in mind that the NEC is a minimum requirement and should be considered as such. <S> Good Luck <A> Its two receptacles A duplex receptacle is two receptacles , sharing the same device yoke -- you can also get a single receptacle on a yoke, which looks like this (product in image for illustration purposes only):
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If there is one outlet, two outlets (most common) or 3 outlets it is still counted as 180 VA.
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How can I tell if this is a split bus panel with no main breaker? Looking for the main shut off or to confirm this is a split bus. Thanks! <Q> With the dead front off I can see the wires that go from the lower right hand one of the four 2-pole breakers at the top to the lower bus. <S> In your panel it looks to me like <S> the lower left 2-pole breaker has two heavy wires which "disappear" under the 1-pole breakers and so may connect to the lower bus. <S> If you switch off this breaker, does this cut power to all the 120-V circuits? <S> What are the four 2-pole breakers powering? <S> In mine they are (CW from lower left) <S> electric dryer 30 A, a/c condensing unit 40 A, electric range 50 A and <S> "main" 60-A feeding the 1-pole breakers below. <A> Follow the wires for the breakers in the top 12 spaces. <S> In a Rule-of-Six panel, one will "disappear". <S> Jim Stewart discusses this well and no need for me to repeat it in detail. <S> This type of panel should be grandfathered. <S> However, if you need to change to a non-Rule-of-Six panel, here's an interesting thing. <S> Eaton makes panel retrofit kits which replace all the panel "guts". <S> They are meant for replacing FPE and Zinsco panels, but they are CH just like your panel. <S> You would need a main breaker panel, or a no-lug panel set up to backfeed from the top left breaker position. <S> That looks like the older style "narrow" CH panels, before they widened out to 14.5" (space between 16" joists) to accommodate thick wire bends. <S> You won't find a new CH panel whose guts and lid would bolt into this one. <S> I've looked. <S> This was a 20?24? <S> (practically: 18/22) space panel. <S> That's just way too small for the modern age. <S> You might also go with a much larger panel, e.g. 42 space, though it would require lots of work including some drywall. <S> Honestly if I were you, I'd just stay with CH, it's a fine industrial-grade type. <A> How can you tell? <S> it looks like a standard cutter hammer main lug panel <S> , there is probably a main breaker at the service. <S> To know for sure turn off the top double pole breakers and pop them out. <S> If you see a solid bus running down that is what it is a standard main lug panel. <S> If the bus is split and the bottom is fed from one of the upper breakers it could be a rule of 6 but looking at the wiring I don't think it is.
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In my panel the lower right 2-pole breaker is a 60-A breaker which feeds the lower bus for all the 1-pole breakers below. The arrangement of the breakers looks like my 50-year-old GE split bus panel.
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Back up sump pump not working I installed a backup sump pump following the instructions. The backup pump will turn on but does not eject any water from the pit, the water only swirls around. The pipes aren't clogged: the main pump works great and it is new pipe on the backup. I tried drilling a hole in the pipe above the backup and water will shoot out the hole when the pump turns on but not up and out through the main discharge pipe. There is a check valve on the main pipe, but is working as the main pump does empty the pit. My only guess is that the backup line hits the main line at a 45 degree angle and the water coming up doesn't have enough force to open the check valve. Again I installed it as indicated in the instructions. The backup is battery operated and both the pump and battery are brand new. Anyone have any ideas? <Q> Letter I in that diagram, the primary pump check valve, is your problem. <S> Also, the primary pump check valve needs to located below the wye fitting and above the primary pump like it is in the diagram. <S> If it is above the wye fitting, then it won't work. <A> I'm going to take a guess that your check valves are not in the right position. <S> Both check valves should be located before (lower than) the 45 degree angle connection. <S> Your new pump is pumping the water up to the 45 degree connection and then the water is running down the pipe to the old pump and into the pit causing the swirling that you see in the pit. <S> Now if the check valve for the old pump is below that 45 degree connection the water will not be able to flow down the pipe and into the pit and will be forced up and out. <A> If this back up pump is run from a battery, Try reversing the leads. <S> The pump may be running backwards. <S> If this does not work, post a picture of the pump and piping so we can see the complete hook-up
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It is either missing or not operating correctly. The water being discharged by the backup pump is draining out the inlet of the primary pump.
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60A two pole breaker supplying a sub panel (220v) - how many amps for separate 110v legs? I'm trying to wrap my mind around how many amps 220V wire (two hot poles) can supply, when it's effectively supplying a multi wire branch circuit (sub panel)... My question is this:if the sub panel is supplied by a single 60 amp two pole (220v) breaker (4/3 wire) circuit, can I (theoretically) put in two 60 amp single pole breakers in the sub panel (one for each pole), effectively making a multi-wire branch circuit within the sub-panel? Or, should I understand that the sub panel can only support up to two (theoretical) 30 amp 110v circuits? thanks so much! <Q> Jeffrey is correct. <S> You will have 60 amps of 240 volt power available. <S> You can't use tie wire, a nail, or any other unapproved method. <S> Better yet, you can use a common trip 2 pole breaker. <S> This is the preferred method. <S> Informational Note: <S> 110 and 220 volts are not normally available now. <S> The voltages keep moving up. <S> Most equipment is now rated for 125 and 250 and the National Electrical Code lists 120/240 or 120/208 as the nominal voltages for dwelling units. <A> OK, so I gather the correct answer is, yes, a single 60A two pole breaker (supplying 220v to the circuit), essentially supplies two 110v branches @ <S> 60A load each. <S> i.e. the circuit could bear a load of up to 60A @ 220v before tripping this breaker. <S> Or a load of 120A @ <S> 110v (i.e two loads of 60A @ 110v on each branch) <S> before tripping. <S> Correct me if I'm wrong :-) <A> Two 60 amps circuits on separate 110v phases will only use 60 amps of 220v. <S> The 60a current will come from one phase and return on the other one. <S> The neutral will see no current. <S> So, no need to split in two 30a. <S> When a single circuit is in use, the current will come from one phase and return via the neutral. <S> Still, that will not go over 60amps. <S> In the general case, if one circuit use x amps and the other y , you'll see the following currents: hot phase 1: <S> x amps hot phase 2: y amps neutral: | x - y | amps <S> Since x <S> and y are below 60 amps, the three values are also below 60 amps. <S> (I only know the theory of electricity, for the legal/code side of it, see the other answer) <S> (And even then, it is quite likely you'd be allowed more breakers as the breakers are there to protect the wiring. <S> As long as the wiring after the breaker is fine for it. <S> A typical house has all breakers summing up to more than the main breaker)
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As to the use of single pole breakers for a multiwire branch circuit, that is a code violation unless the breakers are tied together with a handle tie from the manufacturer.
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How do I measure the thickness of something with a lip or frame? I'm looking for a device like vernier calipers (ie 0.1mm resolution or thereabouts is fine), but in more of a C-clamp configuration which allows me to measure the thickness of some object's face where there is a thicker frame, lip or ridge around the outside which makes it impossible to use verniers. A few examples: Thickness of glass plate in a framed mirror Thickness of the side walls of a container with a narrowed top Thickness of a lipped lid, say for a barrel I know there must be a range of measurement devices to do these sorts of things, but my Google-fu is failing me today. Micrometers are the closest I can get, but (1) I don't need that sort of accuracy, and (2) they still don't work if the lip/frame is too thick. What should I be looking for? <Q> There are special forms of Vernier caliper such as these known as neck calipers. <S> These neck calipers enable measurements in hard to reach places. <S> They offer you the following benefits: <S> You can measure wall thickness inside bores and recesses. <S> Obviously, the machinists calipers in A.I.Breveleri's answer will be cheaper and will probably work for a much wider range of situations. <S> Another type is the Curre-jaw caliper - again with a vernier scale - though both these jaw types are available on calipers with electronic digital readout <S> There are also a very wide range of external dial calipers, as kris and pcdev identified. <A> The instrument you are thinking of is the Machinist Caliper. <S> To use it on a lipped or framed plate where you cannot remove the caliper without opening it, you must insert a plate of known thickness into the measurement. <S> The caliper has no readable scale -- you use it to transfer measurements to a ruler. <A> There are also calipers with a direct readout scale attached to the accessible end - in this case, using the different location from the pivot point to expand the scale for easier/more precise reading (this one being a jewelers version and optimized for small/precise measurements) - there are others with the same idea but in other sizes: <S> Reproduction of Studley-chest caliper (which goes two ways, as can the double-ended one) which has the opposite scaling compared to the jeweler's caliper (less movement on the scale as the scale is closer to the pivot point than the tips of the legs are. <A> Micrometer would be what I can think of with a C shape, other than that, <S> Spring joint calipers maybe? <A> If you do not need it that often, then you can just use any old vernier or other measuring tool you have around. <S> Then grab two metal objects (possibly square) that are wide enough to go past the lip on both sides. <S> Hold them to your mirror glass or whatever you are measuring, and measure the total width. <S> Then, measure just the width of the two objects, and subtract. <S> And, of course, with a digital measuring device, measure the blocks first and zero your instrument on that. <A> My question has definitely been answered (neck calipers and machinist calipers being good solutions, but external dial calipers was really what I was looking for). <S> I thought I'd add a couple of interesting solutions I came across in my research: <S> This is essentally exactly what I had in mind when I asked the question. <S> A bit rustic but beautifully simple <S> : I also found caliper extensions which are an excellent and low cost solution to the problem: <S> Thanks for all the other great answers! <A> If you're look for quick and rough, an ordinary clamp for joinery will do the trick. <S> Set the clamp to the thing you're measuring, put ruler against the neck to measure the distance between the base of the two arms, then remove the clamp and reset the clamp to the distance you measured, then measure the space between the two gripping pads.
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My favourite was these homemade calipers found here . There are double-ended calipers which have the same gap at both ends, allowing you to measure the accessible end while set on the thing you are measuring.
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Stopping a standing desks from rocking I just finished making a standing desk, the top board is 4x2 feet and is about 45 inches high. I am having a problem with the desk rocking back and forth. Here is a picture of it: As you can see at the bottom of the left leg there is a 2x4 (there is another one on the right side, that help stop some of the rocking, but not all it. And the bar going across the middle is there to help add weight on the bottom of the desk to help stop the rocking but nothing is completely stopping it. <Q> If I see correctly, that your table legs are attached directly to the top with no apron at the top. <S> That there is no rack bracing of any sort, short of the 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" faces and sides screwed together. <S> The apron, when the legs are attached to it properly act as rack bracing to a great degree. <S> Most table aprons are anywhere from 4 to 6" tall, although there is no hard and fast rule how tall it should be. <S> With a table that tall an 8" apron, properly attached would reduce wobble tremendously. <S> Moving it off the carpet would be a help too, since there is a 2X flat to the floor which does not allow the carpet to compress enough to give a solid setting. <S> You could raise the bottom stretchers so the legs actually go to the floor, instead of on a 2X flat... <A> Add "feet" at the outermost points of the four corners to concentrate stability at the perimeter of the structure. <S> Thread-in hardware is readily available, or simply screw on small blocks of wood at least 1" thick. <S> The second issue is your desk's proportions. <S> You have a fairly tall structure with a fairly shallow depth. <S> There's no getting around the leverage that this creates. <S> All you can really do is add a bunch more weight as low as possible, or extend the lower frame outward toward the user. <S> Finally, thick, padded carpeting creates movement by being compressible. <A> In addition to isherwood's suggestions, you could add stability and reduce the risk of tip-over by anchoring the top to the wall (with an angle bracket, or a cleat, or any other means; just make sure it attaches to a stud or a well-installed anchor).
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You could skirt that problem by using spiked feet like some loudspeakers of yore had, where they penetrated through the carpeting to solid subfloor, but that may not be practical. The primary trouble is that you've taken the tried and true four-leg table design and turned it into essentially a two-leg design.
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Electrical dimmer switches for 4 switch locations? I have a bank of 6 - LED 18watt (dimmable) bulbs and this bank has 4 switch locations. Is it possible to dim this bank? I don't see any 5 way dimmer switches offered. Thanks. <Q> There's more than one option! <S> As ThreePhaseEel points out, Multi-location dimming is one option. <S> That is, you'll replace one of the existing 3-way locations , leaving remaining switches untouched. <S> If this is the case look for just ONE 3-way PRESET dimmer . <S> One example: Lutron LED compatible PRESET dimmer: http://a.co/aIBfTR0 <S> (Ariadni, Toggler, Diva are all examples of preset in Lutron's product line) <S> (Disclaimer, I don't work for Lutron. <S> I do spec a lot of Lutron product for customers in my day job, as such I know the product lines-- <S> my only bonus for selling Lutron is the Lutron rep does take me to lunch 4 times a year.) <S> If dimmed the same all the time, this solution will be far less pricey than Multi-location, not to mention easier installation. <S> The only con is that one of the existing 3way locations (not a 4-way) must be picked for the replacement dimmer. <S> If you open up the existing and find the switch has 4 screw terminals, just stop and put it back together and move on to another location. <S> If the switch you take apart has 3 terminals then the PRESET dimmer can be installed in that location. <S> Here is a wiring diagram for a 4 location switching. <S> In the diagram, the center two switches are the 4-way switches, the outer two switches are 3-way switches. <A> There are no 5-way dimmers because there are no 5-way switches <S> If you want to switch a light from 4 locations, you don't use a 5-way switch -- you need two 3-ways and <S> two 4-ways instead. <S> Likewise, a multi-location dimming setup (that's the term you need) will be installed with a single master dimmer and matching remotes at all the other locations. <A> There are options for supporting multiple switch locations for a set of lights where you can have dimming capability at each switch location. <S> One option is to use a technology such as the Lutron Caseta smart switch with dimming capability. <S> You install this switch in the location of one of the 3-way switches. <S> Then the travellers are all tied together at the other switch locations so that the lights operate from the Caseta switch. <S> At the remaining switch locations you install the Lutron Pico remote control RF device in a wall mount plate over the switch box. <S> Multiple remotes can be used for 3, 4 or more control locations, each with switching and dimming capabilities. <S> The remotes connect to the master switch via an RF wireless communication similar to the way a remote control garage door opener works. <S> (Note I have no interest in Lutron Caseta devices other than being a happy user).
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However, depending on usage, specifically the case where the lights will mostly always dimmed at the same level or just having the dimming capability at one location with the existing switch still in operation at the other 3 locations.
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Dryer being on of off effects other appliances, and has no heat Dryer is new, uses 3 prong outlet from old dryer. been working for over a month. Now, the motor works but no heat. However, the real puzzle is that when I turn it off, the oven, the fridge, the ceiling fan and outlet in the kitchen shut off, as do the lights in the basement and the furnace fan. The outlets in the rest of the house work fine. There appear to be no circuit breakers blown. One last clue, it seems there is some minimal power in some (maybe all) of the lines... the computer shut off, tried to start and continued to shut off before booting and the light in the microwave in on, but when I attempted to heat something, it simply exhibited a grunt and shut down. <Q> one of the phases to your house is off the dryer element, which is 240V, is connecting the two phases together <S> 1/2 of the breaker panel is getting power via the dryer <S> the problem may be the main breaker, or it may be a problem at the power provider <A> Call the power company NOW and report a power outage! <S> You lost a leg of your power connection. <S> Don't run any 240V appliances until it's fixed. <S> The 120V loads in one-half of your panel will still work, this will be every other row in your breaker panel, so spaces 1-2, 5-6, 9-10 etc. <S> (or NOT those spaces). <S> You are rather lucky. <S> There was a 1 in 3 chance of having lost the neutral . <S> If you had lost the neutral, with that hokey old 3-prong dryer connection, it could have electrified the dryer's chassis and killed you. <S> That's because the dryer punched down for 3-wire bootlegs ground, using neutral as ground, so when neutral fails, your ground becomes dangerous. <S> Now maybe your panel's neutral-ground bond would've saved you, but I tend to trust nothing in obsolete electrical systems <S> e.g. those with 3-prong dryer connections. <A> If this is the only device in the house having issues it may be in your panel not the power company's issue. <S> If you have an electric range is the oven working? <S> The circuit that has problems is it an even or odd breaker, turn it off, and check if there are any other circuits that are on the same leg having issues All would be even or odd in most cases depending on the panel.
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If this is only an issue on 1 circuit or possibly a multi wire branch circuit the neutral is probably open , if there are multiple circuits that have the issue call the power company, turn off, unplug devices or they may get fried. Your power is literally out.
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Washing Machine Fills with water, then drains We have a front loading GE washing machine model GFWN1000. Recently, when running any of the wash cycles, it will fill with water like normal and then go ahead and drain without doing any washing. I tested the spin functionality, and it works fine on a drain and spin cycle. The agitation functionality appears to be what is not happening. I've checked that there's no siphoning, the load is balanced (by using a small load of shirts), and the pump filter is not clogged. Any other ideas? <Q> Also check the water fill hose. <S> Some of them have a screen to trap particles. <S> If the screen is dirty, it will slow the water flow as well causing the machine to "time out" and go directly to drain. <A> There could be a possible issue with the logic controller circuit. <S> Unplug the washer from the wall, wait 15 seconds, then plug it back in and start a load cycle from the beginning. <S> I will need more info to further diagnose the issue. <S> Did you lose power or unplug the machine during a wash cycle? <S> Is the hot water supply adequate, sometimes auto temperature controls prevent the wash cycle from running at an incorrect temperature. <S> Check to make sure the detergent dispenser is not clogged. <S> Make sure the door latch engages properly, my washer would fill with water and then do nothing because the door closed switch was broken. <S> This is a safety feature. <S> Try selecting the extra rinse option and running a regular wash cycle. <S> Does the washer drain and refill twice or just end the cycle? <S> Try running a basket <S> clean cycle to see if that alleviates and build up of residue inside the drum that could be causing issues. <S> The only other issue I can think of is that the load sensor has malfunctioned and is reporting incorrect data to the controller. <A> The issue was the water inlet valve, where the water flows into the washer. <S> The water was flowing too slowly. <S> After 8 minutes of fill time, the system drains and then pauses, since there must be some issue if it takes that long. <S> I replaced it and the water flowed very fast, filling enough water for the wash cycle in about a minute. <S> I followed this video on how to remove the top of the washer, unhook the water inlet valve, hook up the new one, and then put everything back the way it was. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rIeWi6sm0Q <S> Here is a picture of the General Electric WH13X10029 Water Inlet Valve I used:
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Either the controller is simply malfunctioning or another issue has tripped an error code in the control Unit.
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Why does the riser go before tread when installing hardwood on stairs? I want to install prefinished hardwood on my stairs and I have no difficulty with the process.Every diagram I find online installs the riser first and then butts the tread to the riser. It seems to me that I could hide the cut edges by installing the tread first, riser covers it (mill finished edge on the riser down) and then the nose lips over the riser (thus covering its cut edge). In this way I'm always showing the mill finished edges. Is there a reason to install the riser before the tread or am I fine to install the tread first (riser lips over)? <Q> The riser is installed first for the reason that you want a nice tight fit along the top of the riser to the tread above it. <S> There is always the possibility that there is a small variation in the width of the riser boards or the height of the notches cut in the stair jacks. <S> The back edge of the tread can then be slid right up to the riser for a nice tight fit. <S> Since the tread bull nose generally overhangs the next riser down small variations in the width of the riser or the width of the notches in the stair jack are not noticeable. <S> There are other considerations as well: <S> As shown above it should be obvious that the treads can be easily removed if they require repair or replacement. <S> If you try to simultaneously get a perfect fit of the riser on both its top and bottom edges you will have a huge task in hand. <S> An experienced carpenter will install the risers and treads from the top of the stairs down so that they can always be fitting the next riser against the bottom of the previous tread. <S> When alternate installation methods are used additional molding is sometimes installed to cover up imperfections of the fit. <S> Some folks may really like the added cove molding but it does detract from the clean lines of the installation as shown above - particularly when a thicker tread is used. <S> Do remember that when ascending the stairs you get a straight on look at the quality of the workmanship. <S> Lastly when the riser sits atop the tread some of the tread depth is lost. <S> (picture borrowed from this other question ) <A> Alternate tread, riser, tread, riser, starting at the top. <S> This allows the tread to set on the stringer with the most surface contact to the stringers, I use a minimal amount of adhesive to eliminate squeaks. <S> Once the tread is in, the riser can be slid up to meet the bottom of the tread. <S> There is no way to know how an individual tread will sit on a specific stringer notch while installing risers first. <S> A Collins tread template is a great time saver. <A> I think you do the riser first so that when you eventually sand and refinish the floor you don't have a gap under your riser. <A> Use the riser to support the tread. <S> Stringer cuts are never exactly alike and level. <S> You can level your riser just 1/32" above the stringer. <S> The tread will rest on this and be level. <S> Just be sure to use wood glue or construction adhesive. <S> Glue holds them together with no squeaks, nails just hold them in place while the glue sets up.
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Putting in all the risers first runs the risk of there being slight gaps or the tread not seating down all the way if the riser is too high.
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Cutting off electrical supply to replace consumer unit I have a 1946-built semidetached house in the UK, which has a standard 10-way consumer unit installed. Now, after having a new extension built, I need to replace it with another CU (10-way isn't enough any more; plus the old one doesn't satisfy changed regulations). I'm confident enough to do the job - and then have it inspected by the qualified electrician. Yet, for obvious reasons, I need to cut off power supply to the CU. The picture below shows the entry point. The large red/black wires at the top are the ones going to the meter - and then from there to the CU. Is there anything on this entry point that I can use to cut off power supply? Or do I need to contact the power company? <Q> That is the supply fuse you cannot touch that. <S> It is under the control of the Distribution Network Operator (DNO). <S> It is a legal offence to touch it and it will have steel twist tags on it that have a stamped number on it which is recorded with the DNO <S> so they know if it has been tampered. <S> However after it should be the supply meters and then it should go to an isolator. <S> You are supposed to turn off the isolators <S> and and you can modify the installation after that point. <S> However changing a CU is notifiable work in the U.K <S> it is not something you are supposed to do yourself without being a competent Electrician. <A> Ask your utility nicely <S> They should be able to do it free of charge, or at worst for a nominal call-out fee if they have to physically mess with things at your location (many smart meters can remotely cut power). <A> Call the utility and ask them to temporary cut your power. <S> I suggest you also to add a main (and big) breaker just after the meter, so if in future you'll need to do something in the breaker-box you'll simply have to flip a switch and not to call your utility. <S> Suggest to put a switch big enough (as big as the max power carried by the new panel).
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You'll need to ask your utility to cut the power service to the building temporarily.
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How to wire two light switches, two lights, and one duct exhaust fan so lights work independently but fan works on either switch? How do you wire two separate bathrooms in order to have the bathroom lights work independently while being able to turn on the single inline duct fan?I have two bathrooms. The bathroom vents have two separate ducts that eventually lead to a single duct with an exhaust fan on the sing duct. I want to be able to turn on the bathroom lights independently from one another while being able to turn on the single exhaust fan from either bathroom. Each bathroom will have a single light switch. Each bathroom light switch should turn on its individual bathroom light and the single duct Fan. I want each switch to work for its bathroom only and not the wired to be able to control the other bathroom light. I have access to run all new electric including wires and there is nothing installed currently. <Q> This is very similar to a question I answered here . <S> Use DPST switches, such as those intended for water heaters. <S> It does not consider having the switches some distance apart. <S> No matter; one of them will be a switch loop. <A> Why can't you use two three-way switches for each room to operate the fan? <S> If you have your hot terminated on on three-way switch in the first bathroom, then run two travelers to the next three-way switch in the second bathroom, then run your hot to the bath fan. <S> You can then operate the fan in both bathrooms independently of the lights, and each light can be on or off independently of each other. <S> If you only have room for two gang boxes they make switches that are horizontal and stack two in the space of a single gang box. <A> You just need two switches in each bathroom. <S> One controls the light, one powers the fan. <S> The fan wiring is such that if either switch is on, the fan is on. <S> This is just wiring two switches in parallel. <S> Of course the two fan switches must be on the same circuit. <S> These should not be 3-way switches, because it's probably not the case that you'd want to be able to toggle the fan on/off from either bathroom. <S> In fact, if the fan is quiet, you might not even know if it's on or off, and with 3-way switches you wouldn't be able to see that unless you physically looked at both switches. <S> As mentioned in other responses, you can get a double pole switch (which packages two switches in a single fixture), but it's not clear if you even need that. <S> You might also consider using a timer or occupancy sensor to control the fan.
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So instead, wire it with simple switches so that if the switch in either bath is on, the fan is on. Note that this solution already contemplates the issue of the ligths/fan not all being on the same circuit.
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What are the IRC requirments for bracing/blocking in a load-bearing 2x6 stud wall that is 12' high? When building an exterior load bearing wall 12' high, using 2x6's, is there horizontal blocking/bracing required between the studs? If so, what are the requirements for that? ie. how many per cavity, do they stand on end or go flat, etc? IRC 2012. <Q> If I remember right, any stud section that is over 10' tall needs blocking. <S> Any place I have seen, has been in the center of the height, placed flat <S> so it completely blocks the cavity. <S> It is for fire stopping I believe, perhaps structural as well. <A> In the past this was often done by notching in a 1x4 into the face of the studs from the outside. <S> These days there are much easier to install metal strappings you can install on the outside surface of the studs in an X cross formation. <S> (The X cross format is important for strapping because it works well in length stretch resistance but not so well in length shrink (compressive). <S> This can have particular value in certain cases as follows: <S> Local building code may require this as practice. <S> Extra tall and wide walls may be built. <S> The building is being constructed in an area where high winds are possible. <S> The building is in a tornado zone. <S> The building is in an earthquake zone. <A> (See R302.11.) <S> You can use: <S> 1) 2x solid wood, 2) 2 layers of 1x solid wood, 3) 23/32” <S> (3/4”) plywood with joints backed up with 23/32” plywood, 4) 3/4” particleboard with joints backed up with 3/4” particleboard, 5) 1/2” gypsum board, 6) 1/4” cement based board, 7) batts or blankets of rock wool or fiberglass insulation secured in place in approved manner, and 8) cellulose insulation when installed in an approved manner. <S> (See R302.11.1.) <A> Often times with the OK from the building inspector I've been able to avoid all together, the time-consuming task of installing fire blocking, on an outside wall which is insulated, which can also act as a draft stop.
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Fire blocking is required in 1) horizontal and vertical framing spaces, like stud spaces and furred spaces at 10’, 2) intersection of walls and floors, 3) intersection of walls and attics, 4) top and bottom of stairs, and 5) at cornices. Besides the blocking it is often a worthwhile idea to add triangular bracing to external walls to keep them strong and straight.
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Does the NEC allow splices inside a load center (main circuit breaker panel)? I have built a detached garage which will have a 125A subpanel. (125A panel because it will double as a work shop with A/C and heat and power equipment). Power will brought in from the house load meter panel which only has 12 spaces which are all taken. In fact, several spaces are occupied by tandem breakers to carrying 220V circuits requiring the second hot leg to be carried by another tandem breaker with a space in between in order to pick up the other side of the bus. (I think this is illegal or should be. This is the way the panel was wired when we purchased it). With the second panel installed adjacent to the meter base, I plan to get rid of all tandem breakers (which I do not like anyway) and move several breakers to the new panel which has 24 spaces, freeing up spaces in the meter base panel where I will install the 125A breaker to power the subpanel in my detached garage. Moving these circuits to the new panel will require splicing wires in order to reach the new panel breakers. My question is: Does NEC code allow for splices inside the circuit breaker panel? Are there special type splices needed for this situation or are wire nuts allowed? All splices will be done correctly and taped. A master electrician and electrical engineer have said it is legal but a NEC reference, page and paragraph, would be helpful incase my inspector objects. Thanks in advance for your response. Don <Q> It is legal to splice inside the service panel. <S> I regularly have to do this when replacing the existing panel, it is quite common. <S> so I add a gutter. <A> I recommend you consider a simple upgrade of your main service meter/panel combo to 30 or 40 spaces. <S> They are remarkably affordable today. <S> You will up the value of your house far more than this costs. <A> While you're fitting subpanels, fit another one right next to your main. <S> Pull as many circuits out of the main as you need to feel comfortable <S> , get away from those lousy double-stuff panels. <S> Leave the heaviest drawers. <S> Good time to kick them up to AFCI or GFCI <S> if you want that. <S> A 12-space panel isn't all bad, it can support six subpanels, so 252 spaces. <S> That'll do for a ranch house. <S> I am just surprised a 12-space panel can support that much power. <S> Usually a small panel means a small amp rating. <S> For that reason subpanels should be as large (ampwise) as needed to get the desired spaces.
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Another way is to add a gutter and use that if the location of the panel is moved, code requires the splices to be in an approved or listed box that is accessible the panel is appropriate but sometimes with older panels there is not enough room to do it in a neat and workmanship manner
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Why is my water heater's relief valve popping? I haven't seen it, but there is water on the floor and also on top of a hose that is rolled up next to the water heater. It is a A.O.Smith electric ECS 40 200. Both upper and lower thermostats are set to 120°, but water temp from the tap is 149° and jumps back and forth to 151° and 149°. The unit is 12 yrs old. Should I start with replacing the thermostats? <Q> I suspect that one of you elements have gone to ground and is running away. <S> As the elements age the sheath will eventually split. <S> The elements always have 110-volts available. <S> This voltage will go to ground and drive current indefinitely. <S> Recommend you renew the lower element. <S> Remove the lime deposits while you are at it. <S> Should be good to go. <A> Water is 'hotter' because hot water rises to the top and thermometers are usually half-height, so once the water around thermometers is 140, <S> water on the top of the boiler may be 150, it's called 'stratification'. <S> You may only have to replace the 'over-pressure' valve that may have some sort of concretion. <S> If expansion thank fails, over-pressure is released by the relief valve wetting the floor pressure thet normally is 'damped' by the thank. <A> Is there any chance there is a check valve in the supply line ? <S> I had one and found the pressure relief valve spit out several drops of water each time the heater cycled. <S> The check valve prevented the expansion of the heated water from pushing back into the supply. <S> There was nothing wrong with anything.
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Another cause may be your expansion thank, it may have to be charged or replaced (to recharge, hot water lines have to be de-pressurized).
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How to change dishwasher embedded in wood floor? I had a bad leak under my dishwasher, and it looks like the parts will be a fairly substantial cost, and I'd like to upgrade to a quieter model. However a wood floor was installed after the dishwasher and has effectively locked it into place (see photos). The adjusting feet cannot be reached to retract them, and there is no room to push it back first. What type of tools or techniques can be used to get the dishwasher out and a new one installed? I'm thinking a chisel is about all that could work, and add some quarter round afterwards as needed to cover it up. Power routers require some circumferential clearance to work. <Q> I would get a sawsall type of tool and cut it out with metal cutting blades. <S> Be sure if you take this route to turn the power and water off in case you cut the lines. <A> You'll need to cut the flooring, and you should swear at your flooring installer the whole time you are doing that. <S> If need be, yes, that means swear at yourself. <S> Options include, but are not limited to, the chisel you thought of (a good sharp one and a mallet can do wonders) <S> a hand saw, an oscillating saw. <S> Cutting up the dishwasher might help get this one out, but does nothing for getting the next one in. <S> Don't bother. <A> I was able to get to the adjusting feet by cutting access with a chisel, but that didn't solve the problem. <S> The countertop was in a corner, so it was geometrically secured even after loosening all the holding screws. <S> I removed the plumbing, electrical outlets, and backsplash panels, but still had to cut the countertop to get the dishwasher out. <S> The final repair was to add 3/4" spacers to the cabinet tops with molding to hide the spacers, replace the countertops, and add 3/4" plywood under the dishwasher to simplify future dishwasher service.
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This was part of doing a proper flooring job, and someone didn't. For the middle section even a small-diameter circular saw might work, but you need to get fussy to cut the ends, so don't go buy one if you don't have one, as the tools you'll do the ends with can do the whole thing with only moderate perseverance.
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Adding the Sense electricity monitor to my breaker box I want to install the Sense electricity monitor to my breaker box to monitor my home's power usage. The instructions call for installation on a 240v breaker inside my electrical panel. Here is a link to the installation video as well as a direct link to the section regarding connecting to the breakers. My breaker box: Looks like I have a few options: I have one spot left for a breaker. I'm seeing results online about a 240v tandem breaker that would fit into a single 120V spot in my box. Does anyone have any suggestion as to what kind of breaker I need? Search results for tandem breaker run from $10 to $200 but that could be I'm looking at breakers for industrial uses. Looks like this doesn't work? Sense requires being on two different phases. Here is a video linked directly to the email that someone received from Sense . Add the legs for the Sense unit to the existing 240V breaker for the dryer. According to Sense, this is fine to do since the device uses less than 5 watts of power. I've done a bit of wiring around the house but this is my first time working in the breaker box. I want to make sure I'm doing the best thing here. <Q> Attach it to the dryer's breaker. <S> This is fine because Sense is entirely contained inside a steel panel, so even if it entered the worst case scenario of the device drawing more current than its wires can handle, yet less than 30A, the panel enclosure would contain the damage. <S> Look at your dryer's breaker and see whether its labeling or instructions authorize use of two wires of dissimilar sizes. <S> If not, you will need to get some #10 wire and pigtail it. <S> When using wirenuts on #10 wire, tighten it with great fervor especially if it is solid wire. <S> This would also be a great place to use mini-lugs, i.e. alumiconns. <A> You can get tandem breakers with a double pole breaker in the middle. <S> Hook up the existing circuits to the outside breakers, and the Sense to the inside breakers. <A> Since you have 1 position open you could get a single tandem breaker, remove 2 breakers wire <S> the wires from the original 2 breakers and snap the tandem breaker in now you have room for the proper sized double pole breaker a bit cheaper also safer than taping the 30 amp dryer doing it this way. <A> Just someone who isn’t a certified electrician but certifiable... <S> NEC standards require breakers be tightened per spec. <S> I.e. 45in <S> /lb may be your dryer connection and would crush the mess out of the sense feed wires. <S> Additional this is called double tapping and will not pass electrical inspections per NEC. <S> Buy some double 15 breakers and give the sense it’s own feeds and tighten per spec.
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Take out any two adjacent breakers (utility room receptacles and central vacuum are good choices) and install the tandem breakers.
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Will a TV antenna pre-amp reduce channel dropout? Two weeks ago I installed an antenna in my attic (GE 33692) in order to receive stations that are approximately 45 miles away. Things worked fine in clear weather, light rain and moderate snowfall but one morning there was dense fog and signal levels were lower across the board. Most stations still locked in but several didn't. The interesting thing was that all stations intermittently dropping out or pixelating were Hi-VHF channels. I am wondering what the right fix for this is. Will a mast mounted pre-amp help or will a different type of antenna be the correct choice (perhaps a high gain Yagi?)? Unfortunately an outside antenna is out of the question for me. <Q> An amp will probably make things worse, not better. <S> Modern TV signals are digital, meaning they are compressed. <S> But their new compressed nature also makes them highly susceptible to interference (such as your fog). <S> In older analog TV signals, the problem was often a weak signal. <S> But digital signals are often made worse by amps, because they introduce a small amount of interference. <S> As such, you lose information and, thus the signal entirely (digital cannot make use of partial information like analog could). <S> I had to set one up for my mother and found that the amped antenna performed worse than an un-amped antenna. <S> The only time you generally want an amp on your line is if you need to make a very long run of wire (if you're considering it, I'd just buy a separate un-amped antenna for the additional TVs). <S> Something else to consider might be an external TV tuner. <S> TV manufacturers often skimp on the ones they install. <S> I've even seen some that work with your wifi so you can get a solid signal in one location and then broadcast it over your house to streaming devices. <A> You could simply install a higher gain antenna, this basically means the antenna "listens harder" but they tend to be more directional/worse at receiving from places other than where it points. <S> This would be a pretty easy swap and since antennas are cheap, you could experiment with another design to see if one works. <S> Gain may not be advertised, but ones with a higher range specified will be higher gain. <S> Also, are you pointing the antenna at the origin of the stations you care about? <S> It's easy if you are in the suburbs and all the signals originate from a city, but harder if you are in the middle of several stations. <S> I've also seen mention of using a splitter to combine two antennas, but haven't tried it myself. <S> This might be helpful if you can't solve it by simply using a single antenna, but would be more likely to result in frustration and trial & error. <A> My grandfather solved this problem in his house many years ago (before digital TV, though he still has this setup for digital TV and it still works) using an Antenna Turner (sometimes called an Antenna Rotator) and a high-gain directional antenna. <S> You will need to get a map of the locations of the transmitters for the stations you are interested in and turn the antenna as you change channels. <S> It's a little extra work, but it can make a very big difference.
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An amp could help reduce that loss between the antenna and the TV.
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240V/60A circuit in PVC on the ground This home has a PVC pipe running from outside the garage, to a pool+spa setup. The electrical circuit seems to be carrying 240V/60A - (primarily for the water heater). It runs on the ground beside a concrete slab for about 20feet and then it runs along the fence for 100 ft, ON the ground all the way. <BREAKER OUTSIDE GARAGE> ----125ft long pvc --------<SUBPANEL NEAR POOL> It sure is unsafe as PVC can break when a lawn mower goes over it and the wires get exposed. Can junction boxes be used in this circuit? If yes, the easiest DIY fix seems to be- breakers off- cut the pipe, cut the wires and make junction boxes, - dig 6" deep trenches, put new wires and connect those to the junction boxes. <BREAKER> ---good/safe section----junctionbox---6" conduit underground -----junction box-----<BREAKER> That way, the electrical circuit itself does not have to be done from scratch. I am told by someone that an electrician would have to disconnect the entire electrical circuit, including all breakers, lay out new pipes with PVC 2" underground, new cable and reconnect the breakers/subpanel etc. Can you have junction boxes in this circuit? Can you run a metal conduit mounted in the fence? Can you run a metal conduit on concrete posts to keep it above the ground? [EDIT/ADD] - The markings on the pipe indicate: Ridgeline SCH 80 Rigid PVC Conduit Max 90 C Wire NEMA TC2 Sunlight Resistant NSF NRTL UL 651" <Q> It should be buried at least 18" or have at least 4" concrete cover extending 6" to either side of the conduit. <S> Or, as mentioned, it could be attached to a wall/fence above-ground. <S> Pouring a 4" slab that extends 6" to either side (i.e. minimum 14" wide, centered on it) would be the straightforward solution. <S> Burying it 2" would be just as bad as it is now, from a code point of view. <S> See NEC table 300.5 <S> If trenching rather than pouring concrete, you might want to make it a more direct run (lacking a diagram, I'm guessing it turns to run along the fence, rather than being a straight run now) in which case there would be no splices needed if the resulting run is shorter (one side of a triangle rather than two sides.) <S> Assuming a right angle turn, you'd go from 120 feet now to about 102 feet on the diagonal, leaving you 18 feet "extra" (roughly 3 of which you would use going down to the proper trench depth.) <S> If digging, beware of your own services (septic tank, sprinkler lines, possibly underground conduit between garage and house?) and call whatever service (dig-safe or similar) marks utility underground services in your area sufficiently in advance to have them mark any of their services. <S> You do NOT want to dig through a utility line without having called (if you call, they mark it, and you hit one where it's not supposed to be, it's on them, not you.) <A> Trying to tie the comments together for an answer: Schedule 80 PVC needs to be buried 18" to meet NEC table 300.5. <S> Rigid or intermediate metal conduit can be buried 6". <S> Can metal conduit be attached to concrete post above ground? <S> Yes it can. <S> I like to mount the pipe so it is not in direct contact with the concrete but single or double hole straps <S> would pass inspection (I use kindorf strut and straps). <S> I would try not to cut the wire, disconnect and pull back: if you cut each end you will now have 2 splices (failure points and each requires a junction for the splice). <S> Instead: if you tie a small rope to the end you can pull the wire back, cut the pipe, put in couplings, and a new section of pipe; now pull the rope with the other end disconnected until the wire is long enough to reconnect. <S> Figure out where the wire is in the pipe and go at least 8" further to make your next cut <S> : this will provide enough slack to make your splice at a junction box. <S> Then you could extend the wires as needed. <S> I think I covered your questions <S> hope this works out. <A> It's obvious whoever did this <S> shoddy work did it "gypsy" without pulling any permits. <S> Given that you are interested in doing it safely and to Code, I would pull the permits. <S> The required burial depths are quite different than that person decided he wanted to do. <S> Note that when a burial depth of X inches is required, that is from the top of the conduit to the surface. <S> If it calls for 18", don't trench 18", trench 21" if the conduit is 2". <S> Also remember to put in your warning tape in the locations discussed in NEC 300. <S> One would never, never cut wire in conduit. <S> One would pull the wire out of the conduit whole and intact, make the changes to the conduit routing, and then fish and pull the wire back in once the changes to conduit were complete. <S> This is the whole point of using conduit .
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It would be best to watch your wire and conduit lengths very closely and make sure a junction box is where it needs to be for any splice which may be required. The depth for PVC can be reduced to 12" with a 2" thick concrete cap (but it's easier to just dig down 6 more inches). Schedule 80 pipe can be connected to structure above ground since you said it was listed sunlight resistant, so that is an option. Good idea to make it code compliant and safer.
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LED lamp keeps glowing when dimmer is turned off (I know this question has been asked before ( here ), but I followed the advice recommended by the users in that thread to help remedy the problem, but the lights still glow.) I recently bought dimmable LEDs for my house, and I've noticed that the lights glow a little bit even while the dimmer is turned off (I have illuminated light switches to DO NOT use the neutral wire). I suspect this is due to the wall switches using the light bulb itself as neutral. When the wall switch is on, the bulb gets full line voltage. When the wall switch is off, the bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the bulb. I replaced the dimmer with the Luron MACL-153M, a digital dimmer that is specifically made for LEDs/CFLs, but that problem still persists (note: this dimmer also DOES NOT use the neutral wire, and is illuminated with a small light). I then replaced one room's dimmer with a smart WiFi switch that DOES use the neutral wire, and walla, no glow. Also, if I use a non-illuminated switch, the LEDs do no glow while the switch is turned off. So I tried a solution that seems to work for the rest of the rooms where I don't want smart light switches. I added a 10k ohm resistor in between the load and the neutral (so in parallel), and it seems to "drain" that small electricity leak from the dimmer. When I did this, the LEDs did not glow when turned off. Now, my question to the community is: Is there a safer way to do this? Of course I covered all exposed wires with electrical tape, and my resistor is rated at 200 volts (I live in the US). And theoretically, this resistor is acting just like another bulb on the circuit, but that does not emit light. I looked around for a non-wifi/Bluetooth/etc. dimmer that uses the neutral wire, and the only one seems to be a Leviton one that costs $60--way too pricey. Adding a resistor in parallel makes sense and is much more cost-effective. Please let me know if this is ok/safe long term. <Q> After reading through comments and other answers, I have verified that my solution to glowing LEDs works. <S> For starts, thanks to bombcar's find, Lutron makes a product that does the exact same thing, called the Lutron LUC-MLC ( Wiring Diagram ). <S> This gave me the assurance that this method is somewhat considered "safe". <S> However, due to the ridiculous price tag of $18 on Amazon, I knew I couldn't stick buy one for every illuminated dimmer. <S> I decided to purchase 10,000 Ohm, Ohmite L40 series power resistors rated at 10-watts <S> ( Resistor Webpage ). <S> After testing one in a controlled box at AC 120 volts for 36 hours, it was barely warm. <S> So I wired it up in parallel, in the same configuration as the Lutron LUC-MLC ( Wiring Diagram Again ), and of course with plenty of electrical tape. <S> And it works! <S> My LEDs no longer glow (or ghost as some call it) while the illuminated switches are turned off. <S> Thank you Harper for the Ohmite recommendation and bombcar for the Lutron find. <A> First and foremost, absolutely required: this has to be inside a steel box. <S> No plastic boxes. <S> The metal box needs to be grounded. <S> This will keep containment on a variety of problems. <S> Thermal calcs can be quite complicated <S> so I like to shortcut them by leaning conservative. <S> Everything in modern mains wiring is rated at 60C. <S> I assume ambient is about 30C. <S> So I'm looking for a solution that will give about a 20-25C rise. <S> Power resistors are real fond of giving 180C or even 350C rise at full rating. <S> Going <S> "I'll derate by 30% and that'll be good" is a noob mistake. <S> I've had to use a 1000W resistor to get an acceptable rise at 230W. <S> Also using a resistor like the anodized aluminum types which require a heat sink, is inappropriate unless you attach it to a heat sink. <S> They have favorable thermal ratings, but only with the heat sink. <S> Junction boxes are not listed to be heat sinks. <S> Experience led me to an Ohmite L25 series with lugs. <S> The data says we'll have just shy of a 20C rise at 1.44W and that will be fine. <S> The lugs will allow crimp lug attachment with #6-32 or 8-32 screws. <A> The Lutron LUT-MLC basically does exactly this, I believe, and I should have one shortly to experiment with. <S> Another solution is to add more bulbs to the circuit. <S> My switch with one bulb does this - as with two. <S> But four goes off correctly. <A> This to me sounds like a unbalance in the electrical system. <S> Off is a complete break of power no indicator lamp should be allowing voltage of any kind to bleed through. <S> If there is voltage coming back through the neutral there is a defect in said switch or system in general. <S> Also if power is bleeding through the neutral than any other lamp on the same circuit would have a glow as well. <S> I Have Led lamps and dimmers with indicators and they are all working as should. <S> no glow when off no resistor. <S> However some led Diodes will glow a little but turn off soon after. <S> Great topic and could be a bit complicated with all this technology Good luck.
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You might want to check if you have Receptacles on the same circuit with lamps plugged in you may have reverse polarity at the receptacle.
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\What is the best way to frame a box? I want to create a box. I am using a lap joint for the top and bottom frame. For the vertical sides I need help. The pictures show the two ideas I had. But there must be a better way to attach the vertical pieces instead of being inside or outside like I have drawn them. Ideally I would like the corner of the vertical support to flush with the corner of the horizontal frame corner. I could toe-nail thr vertical into the frames, but that seems very weak to me Requirments: 1) strong - I don't want the structure to "fold" if it is leaned on 2) flush to the long and short sides because I want MDF on one side and doors on the long face to create storage. 2a) for doors I will need more vertical members to create a door opening. Basically I'm creating a built-in entertainment centre as the end result <Q> Isherwood's answer is great, however, I'd question why you are using lap joints at all if that's the type of vertical you are thinking about. <S> However if you insist on using lap joints I'd say you want every face to have to be made of it's own lap jointed rectangles, them just link the rectangles together <S> so it looks a bit like this (imagine the top part of the frame with less overhang): <A> You haven't specified any requirements at all, so I'm guessing at what might work. <S> I'd probably set the verticals between your top and bottom frame assemblies, flush at the outside faces, and run screws through the frames into the verticals. <S> Two or three 3" construction screws at each joint, piloted and countersunk, would probably do. <S> This would also serve to bolster your lap joints. <A> You appear to be neglecting the considerable structural effect of attaching MDF to the frame, which will make the frame mostly redundant (other than the "door" side.) <S> Indeed, there's no particular need to make any "frame" joints if there is sheathing attached to the frame. <S> The sheathing becomes all the "joint" and "bracing to keep it square and true" required. <S> The frame members are simply handy bits of wood inside the corners for the MDF to be glued and screwed to.
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It's far less work to not bother with the lap joints and just tie the sides directly into vertical posts like this:
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How can I make these semi-gloss paint patches blend with the wall? I recently tried to fix a number of small holes in a wall that is painted with brown semi-gloss paint. Unfortunately, the paint patches are still very obvious, even after several days of drying: Notice that the color itself matches quite well - what doesn't match is the glossy-ness of the patches, particularly around the edges. The center of each painted patch actually matches the wall quite well. I painted these patches using the wall's original paint (although the paint is several years old, I think) using a small brush. How can I paint over these patches so that the end result blends in with the existing wall? Or is there some other way to blend these patches in with the wall? <Q> so the roller is not putting as much paint out towards the edges <S> this will help to fade the change in new to old and the second coat should cover the patches to not be noticable, with this said you may always be able to see the patch because you know where the repair was. <S> But some one else may not be able to see the spots. <A> I have found that multiple coats to build up the gloss on the patched areas, followed by (after curing for a few days) light rubbing with a microfiber towel or a Mr Clean eraser can knock the gloss down. <S> I have also pondered using burlap but that be too coarse. <A> It would help to prime over the whole area, maybe even twice. <S> Let completely dry then roll over the area with the matching paint feathering out <S> so it's not obvious.
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Since you have the original paint and it appears to be good, I would get a roller and work the entire area with a 2nd coat, I would work from the patches out
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Laundry dryer's thermal fuse keeps blowing off every few months. What could be the cause? Here is what I have done for my 10 year old LG dryer that resides outdoors: checked the exhaust pipe and there was good air flow with no lint stuck in it. checked for continuity between heating element's housing and the wires coming to it - there was no continuity as expected. measured temperature at the exhaust pipe when dryer was at high heat setting with no clothes in it. It cycled between 61C(141F) and 71C(160F). So far I have bought two thermal fuses from Amazon.com and both of them died in few months. Here is also a close up picture of thermistor: What could be the problem and what additional test to perform? Update #1: Picture of back draft flap. Seems clean to me. <Q> Replace the thermostat also, it should be right there next to the fuse. <S> Its probably reading a little low, or intermittently failing, so the dryer is getting slightly hotter than is supported and the thermal fuse blows. <S> For me, the thermostat solved it after I went through about 5 thermal fuses. <A> I would check the back draft flap at the vent exit to the house. <S> I have had these stick causing low air flow that caused the thermal fuse to blow. <S> The second thing I have found was a buildup of sand in the bottom of the blower assembly the dryer was blowing but the sand had reduced the flow, I cleaned the sand out and some lint build up on the blower and that solved that one. <A> Could this be a heating element going bad? <S> (I assume this is an electric dryer.) <S> Usually they burn up which I think means you get an open rather than short the thermal fuse. <S> They are not too pricey. <A> My bet is the venting pipe is clogged with lint. <S> This restricts air flow so that insufficient heat is dissipated off the element. <S> This will cause the hi-limit to cycle. <S> This high-limit is not designed to cycle the element. <S> It is only a safety cut-out. <S> This in turn will knock-out this hi-limit. <S> The entire vent pipe assembly needs to be cleaned/serviced regularly. <S> Additionally, I recommend replacing it entirely every 5-years.
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Also, while you have the cover open, you can be sure to vacuum the vent and everything making sure there are not restrictions like others have mentioned. But I seem to recall that when mine went bad a few years ago I replaced that fuse along with the heater element.
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How do you add a separate ground back to panel on 2 wire ungrounded outlet? This post mentions that it is now legal to add a separate wire to ground an outlet. What is the proper way to do this? Does the wire need to follow the same path as the ungrounded 2 wire path? How would the ground enter the junction box? How is it secured? Is it legal to install 3 prong outlet without ground in the State of Georgia? <Q> What is the proper way to do this? <S> From the 2017 National Electrical Code: <S> (C) <S> Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. <S> The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following: (1) <S> Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50 <S> (2) <S> Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor (3) <S> The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (4) <S> An equipment grounding conductor that is part of another branch circuit that originates from the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (5) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure (6) <S> For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure <S> Does the wire need to follow the same path as the ungrounded 2 wire path? <S> No, it isn't required but if it did that would be preferable. <S> How would the ground enter the junction box? <S> It could be fished into another opening with a cable clamp. <S> How is it secured? <S> To the grounding-type-receptacle's ground lug and to the box, if it is metal, by means of a 10-32 ground screw. <S> There are many ways to accomplish this. <S> Good luck! <A> The only legal way to install a 3 wire outlet without a ground is to feed it from a GFCI. <S> Code only says the new wire can be run but not the path that it needs to take. <S> If there is a grounded circuit close that is fed from the same panel use that it will save on wire and climbing around. <A> I found a nice overview here: https://www.jadelearning.com/jadelearning/thejunctionbox/replacing-two-wire-receptacles/
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As far as adding a ground wire you can tap another ground wire on any circuit that returns to the same service panel. These are the preferred methods of the trade but there are other acceptable ways.
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What causes Voltage fluctuation in Panel I have a double pole 20 amp breaker in my main panel (no sub panels). and measuring the voltage it jumps between 118 and 121 on one side and 117 and 121 on the other. I thought it should be at 120V. why is it fluctuating so? Is this ok? <Q> It's fluctuating within spec, because your household (and neighborhood) electric system is real, not "ideal." <S> The "240V" feed to my building varies between 238 and 242 on a regular basis - this depends on what other loads <S> the system is servicing and the resistance of real wires with resistance. <S> Actually, it's pretty impressive that the variation is that small , when you consider the distances involved and the number of separate, uncoordinated loads the power company has to supply, as they turn on, or off, at random. <A> A key clarification is: you are measuring your voltage with what ? <S> Typical low-end multimeters have specified AC voltage errors on the order of 2-3%. <S> I.e., the ranges you measured are consistent with true voltage being exactly 120VAC (RMS), and could just reflect the device's sampling error. <A> I would wish these voltages all day long. <S> If that's the worst you ever see, your power is very good. <S> Consider yourself lucky to have good stable power like that.
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Within your house, you may see variation on the two (115-125V) legs due to more loads on one leg than the other (unbalanced) - but the overall voltage into the building also varies slightly.
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How to identify a nut I have to replace a nut on an old sliding door that dates back at least 50 years. The nut fits a 7/16 spanner, but that's all I know about it. Unfortunately I can't take the nut off and take it to my local hardware shop because the door is in continual use and would have to be wedged in place when I take the nut off. So I have to try and work out what the thread is so I can buy a replacement nut. From Googling it seems that if a 7/16 spanner fits the nut is (probably?) either 3/16 Whitworth or 1/4 BSF. And I can probably estimate the bolt diameter to enough accuracy to tell the difference. My question is: does the above make sense. If I hold a ruler up to the bolt and it looks nearer to 1/4" than 3/16" do I just go out and buy a 1/4" BSF nut? Or a 3/16" Whitworth nut if the bolt looks nearer to 3/16" than 1/4"? Not that buying the wrong nut will bankrupt me, but it's a long drive (through the snow!) to the hardware shop :-) <Q> A few alternative approaches that don't require guessing: <S> If the nut fastens to a removable bolt rather than a bracket with a permanent threaded rod, don't bother trying to match the nut. <S> Replace both the bolt and nut with something about the same size that fits the existing holes. <S> If there is a removable bolt, but it also threads through other hardware, temporarily remove the bolt and nut and measure the size using the bolt. <S> Put the nut back on until you buy the replacement. <S> If you have a thread gauge (or there are cheap ones you can buy), that will make it easier to get an accurate measurement on either the bolt or nut. <S> If you don't have a thread gauge and measurement is difficult, temporarily remove the nut. <S> Lubricate the nut and threads, then make a quick "casting" of the thread with hot melt glue or other material, including enough material to grab to unscrew the casting. <S> Unscrew the casting and put the nut back on the door. <S> Then take the casting to the hardware store to find a matching nut. <A> If it's 1/4" the nut would be 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 with 1/4-20 being more common. <S> The next size up would be 5/16-18 , or 5/16-24 and next 3/8-16 & 3/8-24 <S> these would be the sizes close to or larger of the size described. <S> If you can measure the bolt length or at least 1/4" and count the threads in the 1/4" and multiply by 4 should provide the correct pitch or be close enough that you won't need to purchase more than you need to get the right size. <A> How to identify a nut or bolt? <S> With a bolt kit. <S> A bolt that fits will tell you the size of the nut, and vise versa. <S> If you try to measure the difference between a #10 and a #12, you'll probably be disappointed. <S> $30. <S> Amazon
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If there is not a removable bolt, temporarily remove the nut and measure the size and thread of the exposed portion of the "bolt".
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Difficulty in driving a nail through with a nail setter I've been pulling the carpet up and getting the nails out from where the carpet tack strips were nailed to original wood flooring, but about a half dozen are now headless. I watched several tutorials on how to get them out, but one of the nails broke and is now flush with the floor. The internet says to use a nail setter to punch the hole in and then fill it up. I bought a set and tried that, but the nail would not budge at ALL. I hit the nail setter as hard as I could. Any thoughts? <Q> Drill out the nail with a drill bit and fill. <S> Use a bit that is larger than the actual nail size to make it easier. <A> I've had this problem when working on hardwood before, my solutions was to <S> Your first pass with 60 grit sandpaper shouldn't cause the paper to tear. <S> If any nails are sticking out after that pass try to drive them flush or re-grind <S> /file them before your next pass. <A> I have had this problem with old oak framing so hard nothing other than <S> a Pico nail would not drive in. <S> Sanding and a paint pen to discolor the shiny metal worked great <A> You hit it as hard as you were willing to while swinging a hammer at your other hand. <S> Try: <S> tap... <S> tap... <S> tap... <S> BANG. <S> The 'taps' do nothing except gear in your muscle memory and let you know if it will slip when you go 'bang'. <S> I bet the flooring sounds funny when you hit it. <S> The wood is probably bouncing which is working against you, so you have to hit it twice as hard as you want to. <S> If you just can't get it to go, remember these spots and go over them with sacrificial paper, either all at once, or just before you change paper. <S> If you have an edger or a ROS use that instead of having to change paper on a drum.
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If you use an grinding wheel (but an angle grinder or file should also work) to smooth out the rough surface of the nail, and keep an eye on the area while refinishing the floors. Steel isn't really that hard; they'll sand.
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How to remove rusted screws? I have these rusted screws in my garage door. How do I remove them? I tried using pliers, a hammer, Water Displacement 40. Didn't come out. Here is another view from the inside: If someone has a tip regarding how to go about removing these two rusted screws, then please let me know. Thanks kindly <Q> What you have on the inside looks like a rusty nut on a rusty threaded stud that is part of the broken rusty outside handle. <S> You don't mention having tried a wrench (AKA spanner) - the closed end of a combination wrench offers the best grip. <S> You may need to clean loose rust using a wire brush to get it to fit. <S> An adjustable wrench might work better than the pliers you mentioned, Using a vise-grip <S> (AKA locking pliers AKA mole-grip) on the outside may help if the outside parts rotate. <S> You could cut them off with a hacksaw, a rotary tool (Dremel etc) or a multitool. <S> If you have a blowtorch, you could try this. <S> Personally I'd cut them off since you probably don't want to reuse the nuts or the outer handle.. <A> These look like carriage bolts and not screws. <S> Borrow a grinder and grind them off, then take a punch and drive them through. <A> Most likely those are carriage bolts - a square section of the bolt shank engages to a square hole in what's left of the handle. <S> However the carriage bolt's ability to resist turning is quite limited. <S> Once it cams out (rounds out the square hole), any hopes of unscrewing it non-destructively are dashed. <S> Pencil <S> a line across handle and bolt <S> so you can see when it's spun; if it turns more than 45 degrees it's a goner. <S> Grinding off the button-head outside will not help you. <S> The square bolt shank will not pull through to the inside. <S> Don't be bashful about wrecking the inside handle, those are stock handles at a garage door supply house, I just mail-order them. <S> Don't wreck the door (or more precise, its protective coating, why is it not rusting?) <S> Trying to run a nut up over crumbly rust is trying to fail. <S> Then hose the nut down with some proper penetrating oil like Kroil. <S> Then give it a shot with a wrench but use a socket wrench preferably 6-point <S> so you don't round over the nut hexes. <S> The outer half-handle will want to turn, hold it <S> so it doesn't gouge the door finish. <S> Once the carriage bolt head starts turning against the door handle remains, it has cammed out and you are done. <S> Now you're going to have to saw the nut off with a Dremel or better, a vibrating tool.
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I would start by sawing off any excess length of machine screw, the better to not have to remove rust from it. Sometimes you can use heat to help free up rusted/siezed parts like that.
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How dangerous are these cracking tiles if they contain asbestos? See attached image. These tiles are in the common area of my apartment building. As you can see, there is significant cracking. My building was built in the 60's, I know that the 9-inch tiles in my apartment contain asbestos, and I suspect these 12-inch tiles in the common area also contain asbestos. The dark area on the right side of the image is stain from where a rug normally is. If these tiles contain asbestos, how dangerous at present are they with the state they are in? <Q> Asbestos is only dangerous when it becomes airborne, which happens when whatever contains it is turned into dust. <S> For example it would be a very bad idea to remove these tiles by breaking them into bits with a rotary hammer, and even worse to cut them with a diamond disc grinder. <S> The mortar/glue below may also contain asbestos fiber as reinforcement. <S> However in their current state, they are not dangerous, as the asbestos fibers won't become airborne. <S> If the building contains asbestos though, you might want to check the fireproofing and/or insulation. <S> These are the most dangerous, as they are spray-on fibers and tend to degrade with time, releasing the asbestos into the air. <A> I will disagree with the previous answer. <S> I would not let anyone other than myself walk on them if I were fixing a home. <S> In fact I walked on asbestos tiles in this condition at a home showing and roasted the selling agent because of it. <S> You can see the cracks and chips on the edges of the tile. <S> While walking these can become dislodged and airborne. <S> Will it be significant enough to cause damage to you? <S> Probably not. <S> Is it worth chancing. <S> Hell no. <S> This is actually a pretty easy fix for the super, nice quick sheet of glue or poly and lay tile on top. <S> I would send a note to your super asking if the tiles where tested for asbestos and show them pictures of the damage. <S> Although tiles are a big source of asbestos health issue why should you be paying for the chance to get cancer? <S> Kicking a part of that tile that is cracked and dislodged would definitely push particles in the air. <S> As noted in comments in another answer - remedy could be as easy as posting warning signs in building about tile and calling city hall. <A> I agree with DMoore. <S> If you have small children who crawl, then I would definitely recommend getting a building petition to see if you can't get the landlord to hire a licensed asbestos abatement professional and have it removed. <S> Alternatively, he "might" be able to lay down new tiles over the old. <S> It's a fairly cheap solution, safer than removing the tiles, and will solve the problem. <S> Also check with your state's Real Estate Commission; there may be a requirement or procedure you can go through if the landlord does not respond/ <S> agree that the tiles should be removed or covered. <S> There are federal disclosure laws for lead (EPA) and asbestos (OSHA), so if the landlord didn't disclose these things to you, and provide you with a form that you had to sign that stated he did disclose them to you, then you have an complaint or possible cause to break your lease. <S> Consult an attorney if you decide to do this! <S> It's my understanding that as long as the asbestos is contained and intact, it's not hazardous. <S> But, the key point here is that it is no longer intact. <S> I am a licensed professional Realtor® in the State of Texas <S> so your state will/may be different. <S> This is only my opinion,and you should seek information from contacts and the agencies which govern these concerns.
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It depends on how dangerous you think asbestos is.
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What rooms or loads require AFCI protection? Do I need AFCI for dedicated circuits like sump pumps, furnaces, microwave, refrigerator etc. <Q> Yes, you need AFCI protection <S> As of the 2017 NEC, AFCI protection has been extended to all 15 and 20A, 120V branch circuit outlets in all dwelling unit locations. <S> The only exception present is for a fire alarm control panel for a protected-premises fire alarm system (i.e. with separate detectors, "brain box"/fire alarm control panel, and sounders) under NFPA 72. <A> Depending on where your sump pump is located and its voltage it might be exempt. <S> There are some key words here '120 VOLT' and 'Devices' ... <S> If your furnace is 220 Volt you are good. <S> Your Refrigerator and Microwave on the other hand AFCI. <S> 2017 National Electrical Code (NEC) article 210.12(A) requires Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection for branch circuits supplying all 120-volt, 15 & 20 amp outlets or devices <S> it covers the whole house .. <S> NEC 2014 had added the Kitchen and the Laundry rooms; NEC 2017 advanced it to whole house.. <S> One big keyword <S> device's - that includes Lighting .. anything connected to your service panel 120V in any room of the home. <S> Although there is an exception for Panel to Subpanel where the first panel is being used as a junction box. <A> The one exception is the dedicated Bathroom circuit provided it has no outlets outside the bathroom it does not require AFCI protection. <S> It is not mentioned in 2014 <S> NEC 210.12 are being required to have AFCI protection. <A> Unless you're in Michigan. <S> Because of the downsides and cost of AFCI's One of the more significant Michigan amendments in the MRC section E3902.11 which specifies arc-fault protection in 1&2 family dwellings. <S> The 2009 MRC keeps the requirement for arc- fault protection the same as it was in the 2006 MRC. <S> AFCI tradeoffs are controversial. <S> AFCI's use energy all the time, so called "vampire power". <S> They false trip. <S> In a sump pump application that false trip can lead to flooding. <S> And, they may or may not actually do the job intended <S> : https://www.mikeholt.com/mojonewsarchive/AFCI-HTML/HTML/AFCI_-_Why_I_Have_a_Problem_With_It~20020801.htm <S> http://www.combinationafci.com/resources/doc_ieee_combination_afci.pdf
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This includes dedicated appliances such as furnaces and dishwashers, and even smoke detector circuits. All 120-volt,single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets or devices ... require AFCI protection.
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light bulb burns out immediately or within 3-4 seconds I have 4 can lights operated by one switch.The light bulb went out.When I replaced it the new one, it went out immediately.This happened three times.I changed the can fixture and the same thing happened??The other three lights still are good. <Q> This can be caused by a break in the neutral wire anywhere between the outside power transformer and the electric entrance panel in the house. <S> Occasionally, a tree branch will fall on the entrance cable, pulling loose the neutral wire. <S> This condition causes voltage to be split unequally across circuits, so that some devices may get just a fraction of the normal voltage (e.g. 120 VAC in most of North America), and the opposite circuit get the rest 9up to 240 VAC). <S> If you know how to check the voltage safely on the bulb's circuit you can confirm this. <S> In any event, if it is a bad neutral, get it fixed quickly , because the incorrect voltage (low as well as high) can destroy appliances or start a fire. <S> This repair is not for the amateur, and may require inspection afterwards. <A> I have had a similar problem with 100 w bulbs I bought (several cases) before they were outlawed (except for the heavy duty ones) <S> I have had a few fail right away <S> I believe the seal on the lamp must have been bad and allowed some air in because the filament burned not just opened like normal failures. <A> When incandescent lamps became "illegal", the big mfrs basically got out of the business. <S> So the only incandescent lamps you can still buy are coming in from China, India and other places with little or no quality controls. <S> If you can buy it in a "Dollar Store", it isn't worth even one dollar...
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If the replacement lamps are the correct voltage, but burning out immediately, this is likely due to a bad neutral connection .
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Can the Distance of a Subpanel affect Outlet Tester Results I got help with wiring my cabin here: Requesting Evaluation of Power Plan at Rural Cabin and here: Cabin Wiring Plan Revisited I also put a follow up comment there, but now I'm not sure that was the right place to ask this, since others may have the same question. So, the sub panel is about 300ft away from the main panel and is wired with 2 hots and a neutral plus ground, and the neutral is not bonded to ground at the subpanel, and is bonded at the main panel. This is brand new, the PoCo just turned on the power and installed their meter yesterday. I have a little commercial electric tester, this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stop-Shock-GFCI-Outlet-Circuit-Tester-CE-HGT6120/204501748 When I plug it into the outlet the middle indicator goes green & the outer lights off ... then after about a half-second goes to where only the right red light is on. Could the distance be affecting the tester? I am tempted to disconnect my subpanel ground and bond the neutral and test it again. Thanks in advance! <Q> The distance from the panel should not affect tester results for any reasonable value of distance and wire size. <S> Yours are reasonable. <S> E=IR, <S> and if I is very small, E is small for almost any purchasable value of R. That tester is a mystery <S> Standard <S> 3-lamp testers simply put a neon light between each pin on the plug. <S> The legends are useless (I call them "magic 8-ball"), but they are an easy way to make 3 lamp tests at once. <S> You can identify this type because 2 lights on is "good" and a third red light coming on is "bad". <S> This particular one has an onboard microcomputer. <S> Most unfortunately, the computer is intervening between the wires and the lights, which means you are only looking at the simple computer's interpretation of what it sees. <S> Even worse , they have chosen to bring its indicators out to three lights , which fools people into thinking it's a 3-light tester. <S> Obviously the marketers of this device want to fool you, and think they are doing you some great favor of giving you a better circuit analyzer. <S> They are not. <S> They have only succeeded in making the legend problem even worse. <S> Now we must spend extra time reverse-engineering why the computer thinks the ground is bad. <S> This is a waste of time. <S> I myself would exploit <S> Home Depot's ample returns policy and then acquire a quality voltmeter, 2-prong neon tester, or simple 3-light tester. <S> One that is made in my home country. <A> I've never used that specific model but the OEM specifications indicate that it does more than a standard 3-wire tester which simply puts LEDs between each wire and a resistor in series with a test push button to short H and G. <S> It looks like red implies a high resistance between N and G (> 7 ohm or > 10 ohm depending on the source I find online). <S> This might in fact be what you have if the bonding point is so far from the house sub-panel. <S> Check your math on size of the N and G conductors. <S> If you don't find an error check your connections. <S> Also, measure N-G resistance directly with a DVM or ohmmeter. <S> I would measure between N and G at the subpanel then repeat at the outlet. <S> http://www.sperryinstruments.com/en/hgt6120 <A> Read the ratings/reviews on homedepot.com. <S> There are a lot of reviews stating that the unit mis-reports bad grounds! <S> I generally take these reviews with a big grain of salt but there are too many of them to ignore. <S> It may well be that you have a problem but it is also possible that there is none except for the tester. <S> As suggested in the other answer, I’d use a multimeter to test the resistance between neutral and ground (with the power off to be safe).
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Even if the distances were outrageous, it should still ring out properly if the tester is the only load.
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Use existing cat6 wiring in apartment for data We just moved into an apartment that has cat6 wiring, with 2 available jacks in 3 separate locations. There is a service box where cable comes in (I have cable internet) and a board that distributes cat6 cabling to all 3 locations. The board is a Suttle SAM-V8. My current setup is cable modem and a ubiquiti edge router. Currently I have internet plugging in directly to the edge router - no issues there. My question is how can I tie into the wiring that is distributed to the jacks in the apartment. I know how to create my own patch cables based on the T568A and T568B standard and it doesn't look like these cat6 cables are wired according to these standards. Does this current setup support data? There is a line in on the Suttle board, can I put an rj45 jack on the end and plug that into my router? Do I have to rewire each of the 6 lines to an ethernet standard on the board? Can I use this board or do I need to disconnect the lines and put an rj45 jack on the end and into my router? I found this but I don't think it answers my questions. How can I use the existing structured wiring panel to get internet throughout my house? I've attached some pictures with annotations that I hope are helpful. Thanks in advance for the feedback. <Q> @JPhi1618 is correct as far as what you have right now. <S> But the better solution to terminating with RJ45 is to install a patch panel. <S> Something like Trendnet 8-port patch panel . <S> The brand doesn't matter - just make sure that it is CAT 5e or CAT 6. <S> You can then punch down the existing wires to the connections on the back and plug short patch cables between the jacks on the front for the ports you actually want to use (i.e., only for the "live" jacks in the other rooms) and your switch or router. <S> To make your life easier - and to make sure the connections are solid - get a punch tool . <A> What this does is allow you to plug in a phone to any of the jacks in the apartment, but it is NOT usable for data. <S> So, you can use those cables for data, but you will have to pull them all off that distribution block and terminate them with RJ-45 jacks or a patch panel and use short patch cables to connect to your switch. <S> It looks like what I described is one of your questions written on a picture, <S> so yes, you can do that. <S> Since it was wired for voice, the wall jacks may also need to be rewired. <S> You'll have to open up the jacks you would like to use and see how they are terminated. <S> My house was punched down to a T568 standard, but the apartment I was in only had 1 or 2 pairs connected like you <S> would for 1 or two phone lines. <S> Keep the pictures that you took, and I would go ahead and punch everything back down the way you found it when you move out. <A> To answer the question posed on one of the pictures: Can I unplug the Line-In, put an RJ-45 jack on it, and plug it in to the router? <S> No, you can't. <S> The Line-In is the service drop from the street for your telephone company, and so shouldn't be mixed in with data traffic.
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Depending on how the jacks are wired, you could terminate the cables the same way in this box and not have to change them. A cheap punch tool is OK if this is the only time you're going to use it, though the more expensive ones tend to be easier to use (as well as last longer). What you have here is a "voice distribution panel", and it is just like a big dumb junction block for all the cables that are punched down onto it.
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House and Shop on 100 AMP Service I'm looking at buying a home that only has a 100 AMP service. I would like to have a small woodworking shop in the basement, but am worried that this will be too much for the service. While upgrading the service wouldn't be very difficult, it is an older home so pulling a permit would be a nightmare. As for what is in the house. It has all gas appliances (oven, range, furnace, water heater, dryer) The major electric appliances are two fridges, the air conditioner, a whole house fan, a dishwasher, and a coffee maker. A lot of the appliances I can choose to run or not, but I'm concerned about the AC and fridges that may kick on periodically without my knowledge. As for the wood shop, I can wire a lot of the equipment 220, so that should help. And I will only every be running two things at a time (dust collector and whichever other tool). How much trouble should I expect with this setup. Has anyone experienced anything similar? <Q> ESPECIALLY with mostly gas appliances, I wouldn't worry about it. <S> I have a small woodworking shop that I feed with a 60A feeder breaker <S> and I have NEVER tripped it. <S> What you have to remember is that if it's just YOU working in the shop, you are not going to be running more than one tool at a time, plus maybe a dust collector (highly recommended by the way) and some lighting. <S> Homeowner type 240V single phase bench power tools are generally limited to 2HP, so about 12A at 240V worst-case scenario. <S> It's not going to be a problem. <A> I ran a small shop on 60 amps for many years. <S> Even with my 13 amp table saw, dust collector and the random chargers and stuff I have plugged in I never tripped the main. <S> Can't imagine fridges and A/C could account for more than 50 amps <A> It depends on how big the house is (which in turn determines how many lights and other fixtures are present, as well as how big the HVAC is), how good you are at turning things off when you're not using them, and how big the shop equipment is. <S> If you've got a 20-30 <S> A table saw and a 20-30 A dust collector, that's close to (or more than) <S> half your service right there. <S> Throw in some lights, a fan or small heater, etc in the shop <S> and you're over 50 A. <S> That said, if you're in the shop, that means you're not elsewhere in the house. <S> So, no lights on, no TVs, etc, which reduces power consumption in the rest of the house. <S> Fridges are pretty low-power these days. <S> Computers can be high-power, but not when in stand-by or otherwise not in use. <S> A lot of people recommend at least 60 A when putting in a subpanel for a woodworking shop (e.g., The Wood Whisperer Marc Spagnuolo mentioned it somewhere, trying to find a link), which leaves you* 40 A for the rest of your house. <S> Certainly, an AC unit in the South in the dog days of summer would consume all of that by itself. <S> It boils down to this: take the size of your HVAC breaker, add 10-20 A to it, and leave the remainder for your woodworking shop, as a rough estimate. <S> You probably can't go for the big cabinet saw and super-duper dust extraction system, but even a 30-40 A shop would be plenty good for a hobbyist. <S> Hell, a lot of us get by in a garage with no dedicated circuits! <S> * <S> True, you probably won't draw 60 A all of the time, even if that's the max your equipment can use. <S> But, we'll assume so to be a bit conservative in our estimates.
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Unless you're running welders, large compressors or other big electric motors (5+ HP) you shouldn't have any trouble.
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Central supports for bed I have an old Ikea bed with this kind of central supports: The problem is that these central supports are flimsy and tend to fall on the side, and I would like to find a way to secure them. For now, I put a pile of books below it, and it's still unsteady. The height of the supports is 23cm. I looked for better solutions (apart from changing the bed). I've tried a few approaches, including supporting it with car jacks. . These jacks are ugly and generally too tall (28cm+), so I also attempted to support it with bed risers. : These tend to be too low and not adjustable (15-20cm max). How can I secure the central support, or support it in an adjustable way? <Q> The simplest solution would be to build a wider support, also out of wood, and also fastened into that rail. <S> Grab a 2x4, cut it into pieces ~6" long, and stack them until you get the height you need. <S> 6 lengths of 2x4 stacked in this manner <S> should get you the 23cm you need (a 2x4 laying down is only 1.5" thick, and 23cm is 9"). <S> Screw or glue them all together <S> and you're good to go. <S> Orient them perpendicular to the rail for additional stability. <A> Install an adjustable leveler in the bottom of them , you drill a hole a little larger than the diameter of the screw/bolt . <S> You push the nut into it and hammer it in place - then run your leveling foot into the nut / support. <S> Now you have an adjustable support built to your liking. <A> The main rationale for needing the center support is because the slats are quite thin (appear to be perhaps 1/2" or ~12.7mm). <S> One approach is to replace the existing slats with something like a 2x4 (which is 1-1/2" <S> or about ~40mm) <S> lying flat on its side. <S> Whenever I've refurbished an older bed frame I've always done it that way <S> and it makes it extremely strong & rigid. <S> I recommend carefully picking out 2x4s which are fairly smooth and without significant twist, curves, etc. <S> which is typical of construction lumber. <S> Notes: <S> You would have to trust that the side rails & consequently footboard & headboard assemblies would take the additional weight. <S> There has to be enough depth of the side rails to hide the 2x4s.
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You can make your own adjustable supports from a 4 x 4 or a 2 x 4 or use what you have along with furniture levelers. The existing supports look to just be a piece of wood stood on end, and fastened into the rail running the length of the bed. An alternative may be to transfer more of the mattress + occupant weight to the side rails by using thicker slats. A single 8' 2x4 typically seen at the home centers will cost about $2 or $3 (in the US, at least), and a box of screws a few more dollars, making this a very cheap solution.
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Should I remove the drywall before building new walls against existing walls? I'm closing off a walk through to the kitchen from hallway creating a pantry in its place. Is this overkill to open up wall to access studs for secure mounting of new framing? I'm building custom shelves in pantry that will carry significant weight. I use to do HVAC years ago and have always done this type of work when installing duct work through small closets in hallways or bedrooms. We would open up the walls and frame to the existing studs instead of applying framing to the drywall or plaster. I'm being told by two "handymen" general contractors that I should have just nailed 2x4s to plaster for the drywall. I still have to frame out the front and add a door. Is there another approved way of framing out the front of the pantry without opening up walls that I'm not aware of? (This is a load bearing wall in picture.) <Q> I would do it your way (the right way). <S> You will never have to worry in the future, in comparison with the other approach. <S> Have you asked the 2 contractors "what they would do if this was their home" <S> .... <S> maybe their answer would differ. <A> I would find the studs in the wall with a stud finder and then mount my 2 x 4's to the studs through the drywall - since you are going to put significant weight on the shelves that would be my approach. <S> As for the front - I am not seeing the issue perhaps I am not following you. <S> The picture shows the access area with the framing removed is that where the door is going to go ? <S> I do not see any reason you need to remove the dry wall to frame out the front and the door .. <S> perhaps you might want to post a drawing of what you have and what you intend to do ? <A> I've done many remodeling projects of this type, and have never found it necessary to remove the drywall just for purposes of framing.. <S> If you like, use construction glue to mount the studs to the drywall in the middle of the height if you don't have solid backing behind. <S> The combination of that and the stiffness of the studs is more than adequate. <S> Double the studs against the drywall if you want extra peace of mind. <S> This will add enough stiffness that even the weight on your shells won't move it substantially. <S> That said, you have plenty of drywall work to do anyway.
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You can certainly frame against drywall as long as the studs are fastened securely at the top and bottom. If it makes you feel more comfortable to open things up, go ahead and do it.
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What do I need to remove and replace this recessed faucet aerator? I've got a bathroom sink faucet with a recessed (cache) aerator that needs to be cleaned or replaced, but seems to require a special tool to remove it. There is no obvious branding on the faucet, so I don't know what removal tool to ask or look for. I've tried some of the "standard" removal keys they sell at the big box stores, but they don't fit. Those keys seem to be a little too big and you can tell that the tooth pattern is not quite right. I've included pictures of the faucet, the aerator, and a key that does not fit. Wondering if anyone knows what kit or tool I need to remove and replace this aerator? Image of faucet here: Close-up of aerator: Example of key that did not work: +++ Update +++ Thanks to @Alaska-man, it turns out the tip of the faucet itself was threaded and, once removed, gave me direct access to the aerator (which is not itself threaded). Don't know why I didn't think to to try this. Perhaps because the visible part of the aerator had grooves that convinced me that it was itself threaded. Images of tip and aerator removed. Also, it's apparently a Delta faucet (discovered after removing tip and observing lettering on underside). <Q> The flared part of the faucet, the ring around the end, should turn. <S> It should be threaded and holding the the aerator in. <S> Meaning the the aerator is not threaded in but is being held in by a threaded retention ring. ?? <A> I used a pair of needle nosed pliers. <S> Slid the ends into the tiny plastic indents and turned. <S> Worked like a charm. <A> I used to back side of a caliper. <S> It's adjustable so it'll fit any diameter aerator. <S> Very simple and it worked beautifully. <A> This looks like a Pfister Faucet but can't be sure - you would need to remove it and look underneath for the make / model information. <S> Just looking at Pfister with the outside crown on the aerator - I am pretty sure that is what you have. <S> That is what I would use to remove this given <S> I did not have a tool - I might look to order one after I removed it though. <S> Kohler looks to be the same style as the Pfister I have seen so it is possible this is what you need Kohler 1130269 Aerator Tool .
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A Pair of Snap Ring pliers for small snap rings would allow you to remove it - a 90 or 60 degree bend at the nose would be very helpful.
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Sanded wall rough after brushing / rolling Kilz Original -- should I sand or is this normal? I'm remodeling a pantry space in my home that had glossy dark purple paint on two walls and more matte gray paint on the other two. After removing shelving and wall anchors and completing wall repairs with spackle, I completely sanded the surface with an orbital sander using 120 grit to prepare for primer. I then swept, vacuumed, and rinsed the walls with a wet rag to remove dust; the walls were smooth to the touch. Last night, I rolled Kilz Original primer onto the walls. Today, the surface looks like this: I'm not sure if this is what it's supposed to look like, but I painted some finish coat (Ben Moore Regal, Eggshell) over it and it still seems to have the same rough surface qualities: Is this what Kilz Original primer is supposed to look like when applied? Should I sand the walls again before applying top coat? Could this be because I used the cheaper "Best" roller from Walmart (I think not, because the brush marks are also pronounced)? I tried sanding a small area today, but it clogged the paper. Am I overthinking this? I've never used Kilz Original primer before, but I have used BIN, and it didn't really look like this (but it was over a light color). <Q> Could it be that your roller is a TEXTURED roller and not a smooth roller. <S> Many rollers that are available for purchase can have a texture by design and others by fault that they will leave on a smooth surface even 3/8 knap rollers, and some paints because of how they are made might be more susceptible to roller defects especially primers as the intent for a primer is coverage. <S> Search for a roller that has a very small knap or if the area is small enough prime it with a spray paint or a smooth flat style brush - typically a flat style brush is used for knockout work. <S> I have used it on a small wall before with nice results. <A> I used Kilz Oil-based Odorless too, and the paint seems to be VERY thick. <S> I used no nap rollers and still got the orange peel look/feel when I was done. <S> Had to sand it down to get rid of the texture. <S> I tried using a brush, but the brush strokes also stick out and leave a bad texture. <S> I'm not happy with this product for that reason. <S> I think using the regular oil based Kilz was MUCH thinner and wouldn't have this issue, except for the smell. <A> Same thing happened to me on a piece of furniture. <S> Three things happened here. <S> Primer was too thick when applied Moisture, humidity, temperature played a roll, and or it was not fully cured when you sanded for paint. <S> This primer takes for ever to set up, that’s why I won’t use. <S> I use either zinnser bullseye 123 for walls with latex paint or Zinnsers Shallac <S> base primer <S> both work great, always better than kilz any formula that you can buy from a big box department store.
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If you were going over regular walls to cover a stain with a regular 3/8" nap roller, you should be good, but for a fine finish, NOPE.
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Why does Residual Current Device (RCD) trip with an electric hot plate? My German residence is supplied with 3 phase. The "main" distribution panel, wherein the service feed is connected, supplies the "kitchen zone" hereafter zone A. From the main panel, a 5 conductor 10 mm^2 (3 phase) is connected to a secondary distribution panel. All 3 phases of this line are fused at 20 A in the main panel. In the secondary panel, this line is immediately connected to a Hager CDA440D . AFAIK, this is a Residual Current Device (RCD). Next are 16 A fuses for multiple zones in the secondary panel. I recently purchased a basic 1500 W electric hot plate. Connecting it to any outlet supplied by the secondary panel trips the RCD*. It does not matter if the hot plate is set to Min or Max, it always immediately trips the RCD. Whereas zone A, which does not have a RCD, has no problem operating the hot plate under any setting. Many high wattage devices have been operated from the secondary panel without this issue. 3000 W halogen work lights, 2000+ W drum sanders, etc. Big home renovation. *Maybe the fuse too, I can't remember that part. Definitely the RCD tripping. My questions: 1) Can this behavior be explained? 2) Are there any errors in this situation to be corrected? Thank you for the advice :) P.S. I want to learn how this works. Please save yourself the time and effort of posting dogmatic replies, i.e. "call an electrician". In Germany, it is legal for uncertified individuals to perform some electrical maintenance. <Q> Can this behavior be explained? <S> The hotplate is faulty and leaking more than 30 mA of current to earth (ground). <S> This is dangerous. <S> This is what RCDs and GFCIs are designed to protect you against. <S> Your RCD is attempting to save your life. <S> For currents above 10 milliamps, muscular contractions are so strong that the victim cannot let go of the wire that is shocking him. <S> At values as low as 20 milliamps, breathing becomes labored, finally ceasing completely even at values below 75 milliamps. <S> Ohio State University Are there any errors in this situation to be corrected? <S> There's nothing to suggest your electrical installation is faulty. <S> You could report the faulty hotplate to your local equivalent of " trading standards ". <S> It is illegal to sell goods that don't comply with electrical regulations. <A> RCDs detect ground faults Current travels in loops. <S> An RCD looks at the flow on the intended current path (the two wires) and makes sure the flow is equal and all current is accounted for. <S> This type of leakage is called a ground fault . <S> An RCD has one job: detecting this. <S> It has the problem the RCD is designed to detect, which makes it dangerous. <S> Stop using it and return it, fix it or smash it and throw it out. <S> (So your trash bin is not looted by some unfortunate soul who is later killed by the device). <A> Faulty hot plate. <S> If you're within 2 yrs from the purchase you can give it back to the shop you bought it and ask for a repair or replacement under the mandatory warranty. <S> Check the (new) plate has the CE and the german equivalent of IMQ (Italian Certification of Quality) mark, or IMQ itself on it and refuse to buy if it hasn't them.
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If current is traveling a third path (e.g. through you, or via the safety earthing) that is called residual current. There's an error in the design, construction or operation of your hotplate. You could return the hotplate to the seller for a refund. Occam's Razor: your device has a ground fault
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Adding a pilot light to a light switch I want to add a pilot light to a light in my basement. I want to position the pilot light upstairs so when I'm upstairs I will know if the light has been left on in the basement. I'd like a recommendation on the simplest way to complete this. <Q> Depending on your setup you may find it more convenient to do as Ed Beal suggests but instead of installing a pilot light put in a 3-way switch with pilot light . <S> This way when you find out the basement light is on you don't have to walk downstairs to turn it off. <S> Remember that you will need enough conductors in the cable for the hot, neutral, travelers, and ground. <S> And that you will have to swap out the switch downstairs for a three-way (no pilot). <A> This would be code compliant as the connections are made in boxes, I have some 120v 1/3watt wamco. <S> Lamps wl-1050c1 that I use for equipment these neon lamps last forever and are UL listed for under $2.00 USD (just an example not an endorsement of this brand. <A> This might not be what you want at all, but... <S> I had a similar problem with my garage. <S> Well, two problems. <S> First, the light would get left on, and second, the garage door would get left open. <S> For the light, I ended up getting a switch with a timer so that even if I left the light on, it would turn of on its own. <S> They also make light bulbs that have an integrated timing circuit <S> so there is no switch to wire. <S> For the garage door problem, I installed a peep hole in the door going to the garage. <S> Without even holding my eye all the way up to it I can immediately see if there is a super bright light from the door being open or if it's dark from the door being closed. <S> Either of these solutions could work for you, but it's not the pilot light you asked for.
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You could purchase a standard 120v indicator light, connect some romex at the switch or light whichever is easiest run the romex upstairs where you want the indicator, mount an old work box, drill a hole for the light in a blank cover connect the conductors and fasten the plate to the box, now every time the light is turned on the light will be iluminated.
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