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Does code prohibit using salvaged materials in new electrical work? Does code prohibit using salvaged materials in new electrical work? Can wire, receptacles, switches, wirenuts, boxes, connectors, etc... be reused? <Q> As long as the components meet current code they can be reused. <S> For example if I replace all the switches and outlets in a home and the outlets are 3 prong and in good shape I will save them and the switches for small repair jobs. <S> You would think after 35 years of doing this I would have truck loads <S> but I only save the quality parts; backstab only devices usually go in the trash <S> and I use enough for friends etc that I only have a medium box full. <S> and then if only in like new shape. <S> I will regularly save larger thhn/thwn wire and inspect it prior to reusing. <S> Even breaker panels can be reused if they meet current code but in many cases I save the older quality panels for subs in a pump house or garage because most of the time they are only 60 to 125 amp. <S> With all the new AFCI and GFCI requirements I prefer getting larger panels for a home. <A> "In good and proper working condition." <S> K601.4 Material, equipment and appliance reuse. <S> Materials, equipment, appliances and devices <S> shall <S> not be reused <S> unless such elements have been reconditioned, tested and placed in good and proper working condition and approved. <S> K601.3 Alternative materials, methods, equipment and appliances. <S> The provisions of this code are not intended to prevent the installation of any material or to prohibit any method of construction not specifically prescribed by this code , provided that any such alternative has been approved. <S> An alternative material or method of construction shall be approved where the code official finds that the proposed design is satisfactory and complies with the intent of the provisions of this code, and that the material, method or work offered is, for the purpose intended, at least the equivalent of that prescribed in this code in quality, strength, effectiveness, fire resistance, durability and safety. <S> – <S> www2.iccsafe.org/states/Puerto_Rico/English_Codes <S> For which you have to use common sense, but ultimately it's up to your inspector's discretion. <S> So, that box of corroded EMT fittings from 20y ago rotting in your basement: throw them away. <S> Non-TP receptacles; 99% of the time you can't use those anymore either. <S> Don't reuse wire nuts without making sure there's no broken off wire in there, and that the insert isn't mangled. <S> Used toggle switches with a weakened spring are garbage. <S> Used wire is fine as long as it's (all together now, class :) in good working order . <A> This is a question you don't see very often. <S> In answer to your question. <S> I do not know of any part of the NEC where it specifically states "you can't reuse electrical material, devices, light fixtures, or equipment". <S> However, that does not release you from other rules and laws. <S> I think in terms of a contractor and if you are working under a contract, it usually requires you to use all new material. <S> Also we really don't like being sued, when a customer is assuming he is getting new product and finds out it was used. <S> Now have I installed used product in the past? <S> Absolutely, most of the time I did it under the "brother-in-law" job or certain charity work. <S> If you think about it some equipment is obsolete and the parts are no longer available like a Zinsco breaker. <S> There is an entire industry that buys and sells used equipment like this. <S> I will conclude by saying that when I did reuse material, I made sure the person I was doing work for knew about it and the material was of equal or better quality than what was being replaced, and depending on the liability I sometimes got it in writing. <S> Good luck
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To the best of my knowledge, no one's code forbids the reuse of all most anything (that the manufacturer does not explicitly state 'single use only' - like flexible gas lines), provided it is in good working order. Wire can also be reused but I usually will not save romex under 10 awg
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Can I wall mount this pedestal sink? Is there a way to mount this sink on the wall?On the right side of the back of the sink, the outline of the 4th hole is molded onto the sink and I thought perhaps I can drill into that spot to reveal a hole that would allow me to hang it the sink on the wall. I cannot access the holes on top from the front of the sink but it seems i could hang the top two holes on suitable supports and drill stainless screws from the front in the bottom two holes The backing is plenty strong. Is this possible? <Q> (This makes sense, because that's where you'd want to resist leverage.) <S> If you could somehow fashion a 2 piece bracket, it's likely <S> ** <S> (see below) that you could drill into the porcelain (without breaking it), and attach it using sturdy toggles. <S> So unless you want to bust up your wall, I'd suggest you stick with the pedestal. <S> Or get a deliberately designed sink that'll have the recess for the bracket built into the sink. <S> Porcelain is an inconsistent product, so failure is always an option. <S> But, a diamond hole saw, used according to instructions (speed, spraying with water while drilling) will usually drill a successful hole. <S> Plus, in this setting, a major blowout would probably be limited to the invisible back surface, which would mean that the sink is back to being used as a pedestal, which doesn't seem like such a great loss to me. <A> I don't think I'd trust the integrity of the back panel even if you could hang it successfully. <S> The weight of the sink alone is a concern in that use case, and the inevitable clumsy person hanging on it will certainly result in catastrophe. <S> If you were able to get suitably large washers inside the upper holes, but.... <S> The only way I'd mount this would be using steel brackets from underneath--not fastened to the back panel or otherwise. <S> L-brackets bolted to the framing and extending under some part of the underside of the sink at least 2/3 the depth of the sink might do. <S> You'd need to use silicone or some other adhesive to keep it in stable and in place, along with lag screws through the lower holes. <A> We ended up fabricating some huge metal brackets to "hang" the sink from (there was an edge protruding where there was grab) and drilled those in the wall (that wasn't real tile by the way) And adding 2 super thick "L" brackets from the wall to the flat underside of the sink. <S> It's pretty solid now.
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Hung sinks typically have brackets that connect high up on the sink. Unfortunately, it looks like you have a wall that's already tiled, so you don't have any depth into which to set this bracket.
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Standing water in dishwasher I accidentally opened the diswasher mid-cycle. Then i closed it and it went back to normal operations. But after the cycle ended, i see some standing water at bottom on tub for the 1st time. I quickly looked at airgap and it seems all clean to me. Please let me know1. If i can start the dishwasher again, and this water would go away on its own2. If i need to do something else before starting the dishwasher again <Q> I would try starting a short cycle and keep an eye on the drain that's inside the garbage disposal. <S> I have seen the short piece of drain line plug up with rice before. <S> Did you have a bunch of rice last meal? <S> Otherwise just let the short cycle run and peek into the disposal when you hear a drain cycle begin. <S> Also some units have filters at the bottom, you might want to check for that. <A> On mine, when you press "Cancel", it runs a drain cycle for a period of time. <S> I figure its running for an amount for which it hopes it all drains out. <S> You could try starting a cycle and then pressing cancel immediately. <S> Or, get a good grout sponge or similar and get the water out. <A> First comment mentions ruling out the obvious problems like this one.
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I experienced this once and it was because I’d replaced the sink disposal unit but forgot to knock out the plastic plug inside the dishwasher waste hose nipple on the disposal unit.
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Will concrete poured over wet ground be more likely to crack and disintegrate? What if you’ve had lots of rain & humidity. Our area is slightly sloped. The ground is clay, rocks & some sand. I’m concerned about having concrete poured on a wet ground. We need to have the area graded and sloped slightly in the opposite direction, away from the house. If it’s too wet, will the new patio be unstable? I’m worried about cracking & flaking if the ground isn’t dry enough. <Q> Civil engineer here. <S> The concrete needs to stay wet in order to cure properly. <S> As noted before, concrete doesn't dry out to harden, it cures through a chemical reaction that needs water to facilitate the reaction. <S> The ground should be very moist and compacted as well as you can manage. <S> Also, wet clay is notoriously weak and you may end up with uneven support under the concrete, which will then lead to it cracking and settling after it's cured. <S> Hard to say without seeing it <S> but if you can remove as much clay from beneath the concrete slab, you'll have less chance of it settling and cracking. <S> This is especially true if the clay is expansive. <S> It will expand when wet and shrink when dry and your concrete slab will be a disaster. <S> Best to get as much clay removed as possible, compact the sub-grade evenly, and make sure to water the ground before placing the concrete. <S> Have you thought about proper joints? <S> Concrete will crack. <S> If you can get it to crack along a joint, no one will see it. <S> Look at some professionally done concrete flatwork and you'll see what I mean. <S> Good luck. <A> Damp ground will not be a problem unless is can not support the weight of the concrete. <S> Cement/concrete does not "dry" , it cures , a chemical reaction. <S> It absorbs water to cure, as noted , some concrete applications are sprayed with water to aid the cure. <A> No, it is more likely to crack when concrete is poured on a dry surface. <S> Hence, you better moisten a dry ground surface to be poured with concrete to avoid cracking. <A> I would wait until it dries up a bit. <S> The concrete has a lot of moisture that needs to go somewhere. <S> If the ground is too wet (clay doesn't absorb water) and the air is humid, you are probably asking for trouble. <S> I see your problem all the runoff heads toward your house at worst or toward the lower right side at best. <S> I suggest waiting till it's pretty dry. <S> We had a similar problem with building a shed in our backyard. <S> The best place was low and rain kept that area really wet. <S> We put an 8" foundation in when it finally dried up. <S> That foundation did the job. <S> We also built up the sides of the foundation with fresh soil. <S> The wettest area became normal.
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If the ground is dry, the ground will absorb moisture from the concrete and it won't cure properly.
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Crack in new drywall joint so we just drywalled all walls in our bedroom. And now (~ 3 weeks later) one of the joints is cracking in the middle edge of the tape . Summary : The house is concrete. Built 1970s. All drywall boards are glued onto mostly concrete walls (some of the lighter interior walls are made of very dense chipboard) All joints are taped, then spackled / mudded three coats, then sanded. Primer / sealer is applied. The crack is in a joint where there's concrete walls behind. It's more significant closer to the ceiling (that section is pictured below). And becomes less pronounces towards the floor. It stretches over about 1,5 meters. Here's an image of the crack. Do we apply new tape over the old one now. Or do we wait a year, let it settle and crack some more, then fix it? EDIT: Thanks for all your replies so far. EDIT 2: It turns out the crack took place in the edge of the tape, not in the center as stated before. <Q> Cracks like that occur because of, 1) settlement, or 2) expansion/contraction. <S> 1) <S> If the House was built in 1970’s, then it has finished settling. <S> Unless there is some underground work in the area, like new utilities, new piling, etc. <S> 2) <S> I suspect it’s expansion/contraction due to the joint compound being too wet. <S> I’d redo it as Jimmy Fix-it has suggested. <A> If the concrete you are talking about are cinder blocks, then they are notorious for cracking like that. <S> Usually over time they do stop cracking <S> and then I do a repair. <S> So if in fact they are cinder blocks, I would wait a year or so and then deal with it. <A> "one of the joints is cracking " So, only one joint has cracked. <S> One could apply similar reasoning regarding other 'systemic' causes, such as not enough drying time between layers, type of compound, etc. <S> Of course these issues could be present in a minor way variously, and they all happen to be taking place at this one joint. <S> It could be (and looks like it to me) that the two adjoining sheets are not well adhered cement wall at that joint, for any of various reasons. <S> If this is the case, (1) cut out all of the loose area, call this the 'hole', (2) cut a patch that covers a bit larger than the hole, (3) hold the patch up over the hole, draw it's outline on the wall, (4) put the patch aside and enlarge the hole to the outline of the patch, (5) remedy the cement surface as necessary, (6) adhere the patch in place, (7) bevel the edges of the hole and patch, (8) mud and tape as before.
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If the underlying problem is that the joint compound was too wet, then one would expect cracking at at least some of the other joints mudded from the same batch or container. There is no need to “wait for it to settle and crack more”. Those issues as pointed by others deserve consideration as possible causes, I'm not saying that any are not the cause, but my 2-cents differ.
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Is it safe to cut the plug off a power strip (then reattach it) in order to run it through a wall? I'm trying to hide the cable for the power strip that my TV is plugged into by running it behind my drywall. However, I have to go through a stud.I'm thinking I can probably drill a hole through the stud small enough for the quarter inch cable without opening up the wall. Still trying to work this out, but seems like an angled bit, or even a long enough bit should be able to do it. The plug on the power strip however, like most, would likely be too big to get through any hole that I would want to drill in a stud. Question is, is it safe to either cut a power cable somewhere in the middle, or cut off the plug then rewire it or a new one in order to run the wire, then reattach the plug once it's through? Attaching a picture in case I'm being completely unclear. FYI, the white cable in the picture is just being run to pull through whatever cable I ultimately end up running. Open to any feedback at all on how to accomplish this, including how to get a hole drilled in that stud (though again, this seems like it should be fairly straightforward with a long enough drillbit....and yes, I plan to be very careful about not drilling through wires!!) Thanks in advance for any help!! <Q> This is a little unclear from the description and picture. <S> What I think you are asking is: <S> Can I take a power-strip that has a bunch of receptacles on one end and a 3-prong plug on the other end, chop it in half, feed it through some holes in the wall & stud, and then reattach it and plug it into a wall-mounted receptacle? <S> The answer to that is NO, that would be a big violation of code (using cable not appropriate for in-wall installation) and also not in accordance with UL (or other agency) certified use of the power strip . <S> Feed a cable (e.g., Romex) from the receptacle down below point A <S> to point B, connect it properly to the existing receptacle in A, mount an appropriate box in the wall at B and connect it to a receptacle in B. Note that you've actually done some of the work already by feeding a cable (though likely not the right type, but you can use it to pull the right cable (black/white/ground)) from right next to a receptacle up to the correct level. <S> Cut a space and mount a box to the stud at B (the stud <S> right there will give you a proper place to attach it, and it will be easy to drill the hole before you mount the box). <S> The cable will can be pigtailed together with the existing cable that goes to the existing, below A, receptacle and connected to the new receptacle at B. <S> Would the first method work OK and probably not cause any real problems? <S> Yes...if the cable was spliced properly (wire nuts on wire stripped properly), nothing ever went wrong with this cable hanging out and spliced inside the wall cavity (which is also against code), nothing mounted in the future messed up the cable, nobody ever pulled on the ends wondering "what's going on here", etc. <S> But definitely NOT a wise move. <S> Would it pass even the most basic electrical inspection or (hopefully) home inspector? <S> No. <A> First, you know they make kits to solve the problem of hiding TV cables. <S> They carry power legally and also provide a wide passage for datacomm cables, properly separated from power as per Code. <S> Typically they provide an outlet at the TV and a power inlet which a female end of an extension cord. <S> You can also wire your own receptacles using permanent wiring methods intended for a building. <S> That can tie directly into power, or go to an inlet, as you prefer. <S> Embedding a power cord of any kind in a wall is right out. <S> Also low voltage cables must be completely separate from power cables. <A> Once you have the path. <S> This means running non-metallic sheathed cable (NM) (or similar), from the existing receptacle, into a proper device box behind the TV. <S> Once you have the cable there, you can install a receptacle in the device box behind the TV. <S> If you'll also want to run data/communications cables, from a similar location up to the TV. <S> I'd recommend installing flexible conduit from end to end, to make it easier to swap out cables as needed. <S> You'll have to keep data and power separate, which will mean drilling a second hole through the stub. <S> WARNING!!! <S> You <S> CANNOT <S> install extension cords through walls. <S> You must use approved wires/cables, and approved wiring methods.
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You'll want to use approved wiring methods to get power from the existing receptacle, to the new receptacle behind the TV. However, what you can and should do is: To get a hole through the stud, you'll want to use a flexible drill bit and positioning tool.
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How to rule-out certain causes of 15 amp breaker that keeps tripping One of the breakers in my apartment keeps tripping even after resetting. It’s a 15 amp circuit that feeds a bedroom, being used as a home office/recording studio with a laptop, 2nd monitor, a mixer, stereo amplifier, synthesizer, modem, wifi router, printer etc. It's been running trouble-free for five years, but after a big electrical storm a few days ago, which may or may not be related, that’s when the breaker started to trip once I began plugging back in all the things I had unplugged during the electrical storm. I tested all devices one by one and found that the amplifier will trip when powered on every single time without fail. I also managed to trip it a few times turning on 2 computers, monitor, the mixer, etc., but this test was hard to repeat. Just when I thought the amplifier was to blame, I took it around and tested it on different circuits throughout the whole apartment and it NEVER trips any other breakers—whether solo or with other appliances running. The maintenance guy from the apartment came by, looked at the breaker briefly, reset it, tested the lights in the room and said, "it’s fine" and he still believes it’s my amplifier, not the breaker. I am not so sure, but I need help ruling things out so I can have some ammo to go back to them and suggest what I believe could be causing it to trip. Any suggestions on what it could be, what else to look for, or what else to test? <Q> The surge from turning lights on a few at a time isn't enough to trip it, but the larger surge caused by the amplifier power supply is. <S> Temporarily swap the wires in the panel between two adjacent 15A breakers. <S> If the problem stays with the breaker, then the breaker is definitely the problem. <S> If the problem stays on the same circuit, then the problem is NOT in the breaker; it's either in the circuit wiring or in the amplifier. <S> Note that the building code now requires arc-fault circuit breakers in certain areas of a residence, including bedrooms. <S> Unfortunately, these are notorious for nuisance trips, even when not damaged. <S> If this is an AFCB, it's even more likely that a storm surge has made it more sensitive to transients than it should be. <A> If the problem follows the breaker, then you know it's developed a hair trigger. <S> Another but more difficult possibility is to plug in something that draws just under 15 A. <S> You didn't specify the line voltage, so I'll pick 117 V. 117 V at 15 A <S> delivers 1.8 kW. <S> If you've got a toaster, space heater, hair dryer, or something rated for 1.5 kW, that might be a good test. <S> Appliances that put most of the power into a heater would be best to not cloud the issue with large startup currents. <S> Even heaters draw more when cold, but any properly-functioning breaker should be able to ride out the brief surge. <S> If the breaker works fine at just under 15 A continuously but still fails when the stereo is first switched on, then it may not be riding out short surges like it's supposed to. <S> Your stereo probably has a much larger surge. <S> It sounds like this breaker has developed a hair trigger, and is now more sensitive to short over-current conditions than it should be. <A> If you or your maintenance man want to provide any ammo at all, you need to be able to make a reasonable argument. <S> So you need verifiable evidence. <S> You can get that by using an ammeter, preferably one that will give you a high and low reading. <S> So you write down each breaker, its size, test it and the amperage it was reading when it tripped. <S> Also if you have a multimeter you can read the voltage drop across the breaker to see if has unusually high resistance. <S> You can usually buy both meters for about $100.00. <S> If you maintenance guy is saying everything is ok then ask him how he is determining it. <S> If he doesn't have any meters then his analysis is mute. <S> So someone has to test it with meters to get some short of verifiable evidence. <S> It better than looking at each other and shouting "liar liar pants on fire".
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If the amplifier was unplugged during the storm, then I would suspect that a surge damaged the breaker slightly, causing it to trip more quickly on a surge. Probably the easiest way to determine whether the breaker has gone bad is to swap the breakers between two 15 A circuits. There is no way you can verify without a meter.
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How can I resolve a "vent intake or termination" problem on my furnace? It's June so my furnace has been off for a while. But it's cold today and I have a sick kid home so I tried to start my furnace but it's not working. I'm getting an LED code with three red flashes which, according to the label on the inside of the access cover, means "Vent intake or termination problem". I noticed that the filter (16 x 20 x 1) was out of place and kind of pulled a little into the unit. But it didn't look like it damaged anything. It was also really dirty, so I figured maybe the issue was that the dirty filter blocked the air enough that it triggered the error. So I bought a new filter and replaced it. I couldn't find a "lockout reset" button on the unit so I reset the LED fault indicator and turned the unit off for a minute or so, hoping that would reset it. That didn't work and I'm still getting the 3 red flashes. I waited an hour, thinking that it might reset automatically (which I know is the case with some units) but that didn't work either. Any suggestions as to what else I can check? The intake where the filter goes looks fine; as for the outgoing vent--I don't see how I can check that for a blockage. It vents through a metal vent into the chimney. I also don't understand how that would have gotten blocked up. The unit is a York TG8S gas furnace. I haven't been able to find a service manual online--just a "technical document" that wasn't much help and an owner's manual that was pretty useless from a technical point of view. <Q> I had the same code. <S> After hours of searching, I too, found an object in the bottom of the intake line. <S> It was a Golf ball someone had put in the pipe from outside the house. <S> I removed the intake pipe from the unit and the ball was just below the connection. <A> Thank you so much for having this thread. <S> My wife woke me up at 4 in the morning, and told me that the furnace wasn't working. <S> Last year my son put hot wheels cars in the vent and they made it all the way down to the exhaust fan and damaged the fins a bit, but it still worked. <S> My fear was that the fan had finally gone out according to your information. <S> Once they were cleaned/ drained she fired right up! <S> Sincerely, a warm home owner in North Dakota. <A> Just an update on, and solution to, this question, which I forgot about until Michael's answer yesterday. <S> A couple of weeks ago, I had an HVAC tech friend of mine take a look and, as isherwood suggested, it was the inductor motor. <S> It was trying to start but wouldn't. <S> Turns out it was jammed up with a bird. <S> The motor was taken out, bird was removed, and motor was re-installed and now everything is working again.
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A bird must have gotten into the intake and got sucked into the inductor motor, which then seized up. I went through all the air lines to sensors, and such and discovered small amounts of debris and water in each of the lines.
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Knob and Tube Wiring with AFCI We have a rental house that still has some knob and tube wiring. We did not know about the knob and tube wiring when we bought the house 18 years ago. We didn't know such a thing existed but remember the seller telling us her father was an electrician and updated some of the wiring. Some of the knob and tube has been removed but there is still some in the house. Last year we hired an electrician to remove it but because it is an old house he wasn't sure if he could get all of it out. It ended up he installed AFCI instead and said we should be safe. There is some lose insulation in the attic over the wire. Should we hire someone else to remove the knob and tube wire? Is the AFCI enough of a safety feature that we should not have to remove the knob and tube? thanks for your help! <Q> I maintain 100 year old electrical systems. <S> Knob & tube is legit. <S> Notice that most of the people telling you it's bad are people who stand to profit from your worry. <S> Cities and the NFPA are not nearly as worried. <S> I recommend it for aluminum wiring, backstab connections, you name it. <S> It will prevent arcing/sparking of the sort which makes connections hot and starts fires, not that K&T has a problem with that. <S> Like most electrical work of that age, K&T splices are wildly overbuilt by modern standards: wrapped, soldered and insulated often with two kinds of tape. <S> We use backstabs. <S> People of that age didn't have our tech, but they were serious about their craft. <S> Nobody had to tell them not to eat Tide pods. <S> Add GFCI protection to stop even small current leakage from wet wires, and <S> you are safe as can be. <S> You can even put 3-prong sockets on those receptacles. <S> One more thing. <S> There was a concern that blown-in insulation packing around knob and tube wire would cause it to overheat. <S> However, the states of Oregon and Washington did an extensive survey on this, and found it to be false. <S> As such, they liberalized their laws to permit blown insulation around knob and tube. <A> It was most probably installed when the house was originally built. <S> The house has not burned down yet. <S> Hence, it must be a pretty sound wiring method. <S> If your roof is sound and the attic is dry, then you are good. <S> Normally, the only reason to update wiring is because you are doing a major remodel and opening up the walls anyway. <S> The AFCI breakers add a layer of protection to the older system. <S> I wouldn't worry about it. <S> Good luck! <A> Mixed K&T and new is pretty much the rule, not the exception. <S> It's just too hard to change the switch legs to light fixtures, and there's essentially no point doing so. <S> See <S> https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/20279/5960 <S> Some insurance companies will insure if "90%" of the K&T is gone. <S> It's unclear if that's 90% of the wire length, 90% of the circuits, 90% of the load or what. <S> It's probably unclear because they have no clue!
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If the loose insulation were to get wet between conductors it could begin to heat up. Well, look at it this way, knob and tube wiring is a wiring method that is almost 100 years old. AFCI is a superb way to protect any wiring you're worried about.
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Shaving off wood in 4"x4" to fit ez base? I bought several of these 4x4 Simpson EZ bases , but most of the 4"x4" pieces of wood don't fit. Some of them are a very tight fit, but most of them are a tad wide. What tool can I use to easily shave off the additional millimeters from the lumber? <Q> However given the eye-popping price of quality hand tools and the wide availability of cheap power tools either an electric router or hand <S> held belt sander make reasonable alternatives. <S> If you need to take off more than millimeters the time honored approach is to make a bunch of cross cuts with a circular saw set to a shallow depth, then knock off the resulting "fins" with a chisel. <A> I would use a belt sander with 80 grit paper. <S> ( possible 40 grit but be careful ) Use a square to mark a line all the way around the post. <S> Mark the line at distance up from the bottom of the post just a bit longer than the depth of the bracket. <S> Clamp your post to a solid surface to keep it from moving around and use the sander perpendicular to the post to sand down just about a 1/4 of the overall amount you need to take off. <S> Turn the post and do this for each side. <S> Sneak up on it as they say, that is, do a little bit on each side and check the fit then do some more until you get it just right. <S> If you had a band saw or access to one, that would work quite nicely. <S> you would make a depth cut all the way around with a hand saw or skillsaw and then use the bandsaw to cut from the bottom of the post up to the depth cut on all four sides. <S> You could set up a fence on the saw's table to control the amount you take off. <A> A straight up wood plane should do the job: <A> https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Diameter-Rotary-Shaper/48094418
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If you want a more precise cut you could measure the exact width of the opening and use a table saw with a slight angle set on the guide and mark the base of the 4x4 for cutting. The best option in hand tooling is a wide rasp. Rotary wood shaper might do the trick.
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Portable air conditioner produces nasty smell in fan mode after running AC My Haier HPN12XCM Portable Air Conditioner, 12000-BTU air conditioner produces a horrible smell whenever it is in fan mode after I run it in AC mode. To reproduce the problem, I do the following: Run the AC unit in AC mode for 20 minutes. No smell. Turn off AC mode and turn on fan mode. Smell slowly fades in over about 2 minutes. A horrible smell will occur for approximately 20 minutes and then go away. It appears for longer if the AC unit has been running for longer. Interestingly, if I turn AC mode back on, the smell disappears within 1 minute. I've attempted to disassemble the unit to find the problem. Some very minor damage was present to the coils on the lower half and those coils, when rubbed with a paper towel, produced the smell of rotten eggs on the paper towel. The smell is not easily identifiable when it's in the air, but if anything, I would guess that it smells like a mixture of butt and that awful oil smell you sometimes find on railings outside. What I've tried to fix the problem: I've attempted to run the unit for 7 straight days in fan mode to no avail. When I ran the AC unit for 20 minutes after that, the problem reappeared. Unfortunately, this makes my portable AC unit inoperable, since it needs to be in fan mode for 2-3 minutes before AC mode kicks in and the smell does not go away when the unit has been off for a while. The smell is so awful that it sticks in the room for hours afterwards even if it only runs for 2-3 minutes. I've also tried unplugging both of the rubber plugs on the back. On a humid day, one produced a small amount of liquid. Today, despite the smell, no liquid. Also the lint filter on the outside of the unit has no lint on it. This unit is a rental from my apartment complex. I've tried switching out the unit but they both had the exact same problem. What could be causing this smell? Is there a way to fix it? <Q> I'd be careful with cleaners, the manual online specifically says not to use any harsh cleaners. <S> Personally, I'd use my judgment on this though. <S> I'm not sure how much you can get at the insides, but I'd try and brush the coils with an old toothbrush and warm water with a drop of dish soap. <S> I'd also see if I could clean the evaporation tank. <S> Water condenses on the coils and drips down into the tank. <S> Heat from running the unit should evaporate the water (just like your fridge) <S> so it's normal not get much out of the drain hole. <S> You should be able to take the lower drain out, spray warm water on the coils and see it drain out. <S> You should also wash the air filter weekly, it's collects dust and not just lint, so visual lint isn't a useful indicator of anything. <S> Personally, I'd never use the AC just in fan mode. <S> If you want to just move air around, an actual fan is going to be more efficient. <S> If these are the only two rental units left from your apt complex, you might see if they'd buy a new one, or consider buying a new one yourself. <S> It looks like a model similar to this is around $400, so depending on what you pay to rent it, it might be easy to recoup that cost in a short amount of time. <A> Unfortunately there are some kind of spores or bacteria growing inside the evap coils. <S> When a portable window unit is installed it should be slightly tilted to the outside. <S> This is to drain off some condensate. <S> If it's not titled the condensate will foster nasty things to grow and they embed into the intricate fins of the evap coil. <S> So if you can get it apart you can clean the coil with a special coil cleaner made for that. <S> But after you clean it, I would disinfect it with alcohol. <S> Or hydrogen peroxide, you have to kill that stink off because it can protect itself in a protein sheath. <S> Kinda like bad breath is caused by bacteria, same kinda thing for your AC unit. <S> When you say the lower part of the evap coil smells bad that is why I am thinking some condensate has sat there creating a perfect environment for the undesirables. <S> So clean, disinfect, repeat if necessary because they have set up camp for the long term. <A> If it's not a dead mouse, your drain pan needs cleaning. <S> Sometimes they are Styrofoam and plastic so no harsh chemicals. <S> You could add a few drops of bleach to the water (after the pan fills from use). <S> Always unplug it to clean it!
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I'd take the cover off and use a hose and carefully rinse it without getting electrical components wet.
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Will adding a cool air return in the basement help with summer AC power usage? Pretty much the title. I have a full basement. Part of it is unfinished and has the water heater, furnace, and washer / dryer. The other part (roughly 1/2 of the total space) is partially finished. It has a dropped ceiling and wood panel walls, both with no added insulation. There is an AC / heat vent cut into the ceiling. It is currently taped shut. There is no cold air return. Even with the vent closed, that area of the basement stays pretty cool even in the hottest part of the summer. I'm assuming because cold air sinks and the ceiling isn't insulated. I'm thinking about adding a cold air return near the bottom of the floor and uncovering the vent. The thought is that the AC would cycle air through the basement and pull the cool air back into the main living area. Should this work? Anyone have before and after experience doing this kind of thing? <Q> Furnace installers and/or home owners will put a registers in the duct work to provide some heat or A/C to that area. <S> The number of these supply and return registers is determined by the typical use and desired temperature of this area. <S> I recommend that all basements should have at least 2 supply registers and 1 return register in the basement/equipment area just to keep that area slightly warm or cool and the air fresh. <S> If you are going to finish that area to be used as living space, then more supply and returns will be needed. <S> Also you may want to close the supply registers in the summer when using the A/C since cold air is heavy and will move to the lowest level in the house. <S> Leave the returns (mounted at the floor level) open to circulate that air all the time. <A> We must assume that whoever taped the supply vent shut did so for a reason--probably it was too cold in the summer (and maybe or maybe not too hot in winter). <S> Too much conditioned air was going into the basement space and not enough into the upper floors. <S> First try leaving the basement as is and opening up dampers or restrictor vanes in the supply vents to the upper floors to allow more flow into the upper floors. <S> Does your system have a return vent system? <S> If so, if you later want to provide airflow to the basement you could install a return vent and connect it to the return system. <S> But if this would be difficult it might be sufficient to simply have a return air connection from the basement to the floor above. <S> Of course, this might reduce audio privacy depending on how it was done. <A> The natural cooling will reduce your AC bill. <S> If your stairwell to the basement is open you don't even need registers down there and the furnace will push the cool air through the duct work. <S> By installing dampers you can change the flow from different levels by season. <S> My last home I did exactly that <S> and it greatly reduced my cooling bill <S> and I had a wood stove down stairs that shifting the dampers for winter <S> saved me a huge amount on heating and all I did was change the volume of air removed from upstairs or downstairs. <S> Upstairs open fully in the winter downstairs in the summer. <S> It worked great and saved quite a bit while keeping both zones more comfortable. <A> Get one of the AC units that have wheels and sits on the floor and exhausts out the window and use that at on the top level. <S> Your Central AC wont work as hard.
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If you put a return into the basement and open the taped up vent, then even more conditioned air will go into the basement--the opposite of what you want. I have just done this and my electric costs have actually gone down. I have installed air intakes in basements many times.
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Vinyl flooring poor air quality and toxicity We're looking to install luxury vinyl flooring in our home and recently came across some claims that vinyl flooring significantly reduces air quality in the home and can release carcinogens in to the air as it is often manufactured with PVC along with other unsafe materials. We still like the look and durability of luxury vinyl floors but have safety concerns for obvious reasons. Is there a way to filter out the non-eco-friendly / unsafe vinyl from the safe by looking at product specifications or choosing a specific brand? Have the safety of vinyl floors improved with time to the point these concerns are no longer warranted? Or is all vinyl flooring unsafe by its very nature and should we stick to laminate if we're concerned about air quality and our safety? Thanks in advance <Q> Most building materials will off-gas for for various reasons: 1) what their made of, 2) what they use to “glue” material in place, 3) warring of surface material. <S> A better explanation is here: https://www.greenbuildingsupply.com/Learning-Center/Flooring-LC/Why-we-dont-sell-luxury-vinyl-tile <S> What this article omits is the adhesive used to secure the material to the floor. <S> Even “low VOC” material has a significant amount of material that will “off-gas”. <S> Government buildings now require the completed building to “run” the heating and air conditioning systems without anyone in the building for 14 days. <S> We usually don’t do this for residential construction because there are larger quantities in governmental buildings. <S> Everyone has a different tolerance towards these materials. <S> Not much can affect me, but my son would cough and gag after a few minutes when we stayed in a hotel on vacation that recently renovated their rooms. <S> Your tolerance may be just as weak. <A> Is PVC Safe? <S> The Vinyl Debate – <S> www.motherearthnews.com <S> The production of PVC is bad for the environment and factory workers. <S> Sure, I'll go with that. <S> Dioxin is a super-toxic chemical released when plastic that contains chlorine is burned. <S> Ok. <S> Dioxin can only be released from PVC when it is burned at low or extremely high temperatures. <S> Yep. <S> PVC disposal is unsafe. <S> Probably, but that's not the question. <S> Should I be concerned about using PVC in my home? <S> Definitely, if it's on fire. <S> We recently posted a poll on our website asking you, “Do you try to avoid using vinyl in your home?” <S> Forty-two percent of responders answered, “Yes, whenever I can,” while 40 percent of responders answered, “No – what’s wrong with vinyl?” <S> I also avoid installing vinyl if I can, because it sucks compared to stone tile. <S> AFAIK, no other flooring material can claim that. <A> Check the product sheet, or the Material Safety Data Sheet for the luxury vinyl flooring. <S> If you see Poly-Vinyl Chloride or PVC mentioned, that flooring contains PVC. <S> It's not a contaminant, it is part of the flooring. <S> Composite flooring is not a sure thing either. <S> It has several layers, each made with a wizard's brew of binders, fillers and adhesives, plus a plastic skin on top and bottom. <S> Vinyl is at least made of one thing. <S> Consider natural materials, and nails/screws instead of glues.
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However, certain types of vinyl have antimicrobial properties which is why they're used in the healthcare industry.
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Using PEX as wire conduit I have some 1/2" PEX-AL-PEX left over and thinking about using it as conduit for ~20' ethernet or phone cable. Pipe is appropriately orange. Will the aluminium layer provide RF shielding? (assuming I manage to ground it) Is this a bad idea? <Q> Because this is an indoor run, I'm not entirely sure why conduit would be helpful, except in eventually pulling more cables, as you mention. <S> That said, I pulled CAT6 through 3/4" PEX, and that was difficult. <S> Overall, I don't see a point to it. <S> If you wanted to do it, you could. <S> You could probably use a PG fitting to connect it to boxes on either end. <S> Keep pull tape in the PEX so you can pull more easily in the future. <S> It helps to have twice the length of the run so you can hold it on either end, attach your cable, and pull without losing the pull tape on either end. <A> Meh. <S> You might get some benefit in the shielding department <S> but it's a lot of hassle for not a lot of gain. <S> Phone lines don't need much, if any, shielding. <S> Ethernet is internally shielded to meet the needs of the signal inside (i.e. this little bit of conduit won't bump you from Cat5e to Cat6). <S> But 1/2" PEX will hold maybe one wire at best. <S> Still not much to be gained there either. <S> If you want conduit, PVC conduit is stupid cheap. <A> If you are located in the US and this is going to be subject to inspection according to the National Electrical Code, then you need to use a listed raceway. <S> Pex tubing or any other plumbing pipe is not listed for use as an electrical raceway. <S> Good luck! <A> No separate RF shielding is needed for typical installations with twisted pair Ethernet (e.g., CAT 5) cabling. <S> Phone cable also doesn't generally need RF shielding. <S> I would actually recommend using the same cabling (but separate physical cables) for phone & Ethernet cabling. <S> Phones don't need the top quality of CAT 5 (CAT 3 is more than adequate) but for 20' it is easier just to do everything the same way - just the connectors/jacks on the ends are different.
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If you just want some physical protection for the Cat 5 cable then PVC electrical conduit will perform nicely. The only way I would do this is if you have an open wall and want to be able to run wires later. If you have 1/2", you're not likely going to be able to pull it through at all if it's terminated, and you probably can't get any more cables in there afterward. Save your scrap pex for a plumbing project.
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what are my options when it comes to updating my recessed lighting? i want to start by saying thank you for the few that helped answer my question yesterday. to make a long story short....i am a fairly new homeowner and unfortunately did not have a father who was much of a fixer upper growing up. so when it comes to home repairs and doing things around the house i am very inexperienced. i am trying to start off by doing small simple projects to help boost my confidence around the house. so over the weekend when I looked up at the ceiling in my living room i decided that i wanted to replace the faded white trim for the recessed lights. so after doing some browsing i found these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kichler-Baffle-Recessed-Light-Trim-Fits-Housing-Diameter-6-in/1000257661 they are really nice and not that expensive. so i went to lowes and picked one up along with some GE LED BR30 bulbs. i wanted to buy just one to make sure it fit and looked nice. but upon reading the sticker on the trim it said MAX 9W BR30 LED. so i exchanged the bulbs for a lower wattage. i went home and put up the trim and it fit beautifully. such a simple change gives the ceiling some new life! but as i was putting in the trim i noticed a sticker on the housing unit. it's a HALO 7T housing unit. no where do I see the trim i purchased on that sticker. as matter of fact it says to use only HALO trim. in addition...i don't see any mention of LED bulbs on that sticker either. so am I overthinking this here? is it that big of a deal? what about the LED bulbs? can they go into this unit? i have read some conflicting articles online as far as LED bulbs in incandescent housing. i just don't want to create a fire hazard, that's my real concern. maybe my questions are silly but again, i'm new to this and want to be 100% sure. thanks so much <Q> R is for reflector and 30 is how many eighths of an inch wide they are... 3-3/4 inches in this case. <S> BR is for bulged reflector. <S> PAR is for parabolic aluminized reflector. <S> I agree with all the other comments regarding code and UL. <S> Halo says use halo trims. <S> Of course they do. <S> It is just a beauty ring. <S> They sell BR3O led lamps from 8 to 12 watt so stay with 9 watt maximum like they state on the label and sleep easy. <S> I have 45 years experience in this work and this is 100% safe. <A> I can't speak to the trim type/compatibility - that may be pure marketing, or it may really be that only certain types fit. <S> But as far as LED bulbs, as long as the power (W) is <= <S> the rated power of the fixture you should be fine. <S> LEDs do produce heat, but less heat (based on the power used) than incandescent, compact fluorescent and halogen bulbs that produce the same amount of light (lumens). <S> LEDs can produce some very high heat in small areas (e.g., there may be a lot of heat (relatively) at the base of the bulb, where an incandescent bulb produces no heat at the base but produces a lot of heat everywhere else), but the TOTAL amount of heat is simply based on the power consumption. <S> One real concern with LEDs is dimming. <S> Both the bulb and the dimmer need to be designed to handle LED dimming. <S> With incandescent bulbs this was never a problem, but with LEDs it often is a problem. <A> In the civilized world, products are tested: The manufacturer designs the product and creates labeling and instructions . <S> They pack them off to UL or similar testing lab, who tests them according to their instructions and labeling . <S> If the products don't burn the lab down, they become listed . <S> The listing only applies if used according to labeling and instructions, since that is all they were tested for. <S> NEC is a thick codebook but its very first reg (110.2) effectively requires you use only listed products. <S> The second reg (110.3) requires obedience to the labeling and instructions (so you don't void the UL listing by faulty installation). <S> But a "trim ring" is a wobbler. <S> On one hand, what I just said. <S> On the other hand, NEC doesn't have any code about trim rings, and they are a cosmetic piece so liable to be more of a marketing pitch. <S> Code does indeed not recognize a "Use Only Our Brand Accessories" demand. <S> That said, circuit breakers are in fact not interchangeable across brands; some will "snap in" but they won't fit the busbars correctly, and will arc badly. <S> The real deciding factor, I think, will be whether the product appears safe and has good fitment, not hokeydoked up there with duct tape and paper clips. <S> That's also addressed in an early NEC rule, 110.11, "neat and workmanlike" execution of work. <S> As far as "9 watts", if the part is UL/etc. <S> listed, then you must follow the labeling and instructions. <S> If it is not listed, you must not use it at all. <S> Generally fixtures don't care how many lumens shine through them; they are concerned with the ability to remove lamp heat so they don't overwhelm the fixture's insulation and set your house on fire. <S> The second concern is LED and CFL lamps need to run cool - (particularly, CFLs do badly in "socket up" orientations because 90% of the heat is made in the tube's phosphors, and then rises to overheat the driver electronics.) <S> The fixture may not be good at removing heat (since it's made for incandescents which enjoy being oven lights) - <S> and so the maker may derate <S> the fixture for LED/CFL in an attempt to keep the LED/CFL at workable temperatures so it doesn't fail prematurely.
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And technically you should use Halo trims, but I would use another brand in my own home if it was convenient and or priced right.
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Can I splice the common wire of two different circuits in the same junction? I have a single 4way run that shares a 2 gang box with another circuit. Both circuits run off of the same sub-panel. Is phase an issue here? I can't seem to find anything that indicates whether or not this is acceptable. Thinking about it again, my inclination is that you can't/shouldn't do this. <Q> Every neutral needs to stay with its partners hot(s) <S> in the same cable . <S> You can't have promiscuous neutrals. <S> There are a bunch of reasons, but let's just touch on a few of them. <S> Neutrals don't have breakers . <S> That means, say, <S> a hot/neutral pair rated for 15A will have its hot wire on a 15A breaker, and the neutral is assumed to be protected since how can the neutral flow more current than the hot? <S> Well a promiscuous neutral could be returning its own 15A plus another 15A from another circuit; overloading at 30A. <S> Nothing would prevent this. <S> EMF imbalance causes eddy currents and wire movement . <S> A single wire carrying AC power throws up a lot of EMF. <S> A reed relay laid alongside a wire will actuate if current flow is > 10 amps. <S> They intentionally wrap wires in loops big enough for ships to sail through, and test EMP resistance and degauss ships. <S> It can also cause "eddy current heating" in anything metallic that isn't specifically laminated to avoid this. <S> The pulsing magnetism can also cause physical vibration of the wire in the walls, which can fatigue and break the wire, cause arcing. <S> Arcing can set things on fire inside the walls where the homeowner can't detect it or put it out while it's small. <S> However, when all the wires in a circuit run together, it means currents are equal and opposite among the wires, and the EMFs cancel each other out , which eliminates the above problems. <S> Since current flows in loops, that's guaranteed to happen as long as all the wires in that branch of the circuit are in the same cable . <S> So it's a code requirement that all wires in a circuit branch run together in the same cable or conduit. <S> GFCI/RCD's don't permit cross-wiring . <S> They work by detecting unequal currents, using the abovementioned "EMFs cancel each other out" trick. <S> A promiscuous neutral will obviously cause unequal currents and guarantee a GFCI trip. <S> That means using this very sloppy wiring technique will backfire on you badly if you ever upgrade the circuit to GFCI protection. <A> so you could get shocked or worse when repairing the "deenergised" circuit. <A> I interpreted this question as asking could one have two separate separate cables or sets of wire with separate hots and paired neutrals in the same 2-gang box? <S> If that is the question, then I do not believe there is any restriction.
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It would be a code violation to use the neutral from a different circuit, it would also create a safety problem in the future if 1 circuit is turned off there could be power from the other circuit on the one that is off But there cannot be any connections between the hots or the neutrals of the two circuits.
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Staple Through Electrical Wire I was installing a new bath fan and had it all done. I was cleaning up the wires in the attic and accidentally put a staple through the wire as I was securing it to the lumber. I put some electrical tape around it and seems to be working. There is not enough slack in the wire for me to cut it at the point where I pierced it. So my question is, do I need to have an electrician come out and replace or repair it, or is the electrical tape a safe solution? Thank you. <Q> If you damaged the conductor, tape doesn't help. <S> The sharp edges and reduced cross-section result in concentrated resistance, which creates heat. <S> That means sparks and potentially fire. <S> If you can determine that the conductors and their individual wire insulation weren't damaged, tape could be a viable (if not strictly legal) solution for repairing the outer jacket. <S> Otherwise, replace the cable. <A> You could trim, back the outer jacket and check to see if the conductors are damaged. <S> Then tape the cable in the damaged area to replace the outer jacket. <S> Wire in an attic will not be exposed to any chaffing or wear so once it is taped up it will last for decades. <S> If any of the conductors are significantly damaged then you could use a splice such as <S> this to repair the damaged area. <S> They are Code legal and don't require extra slack in the cable. <S> Splicing in a junction box will require butt splices not wire nuts. <S> Wire nuts require slack to bring the conductors together parallel to each other. <S> Good luck! <A> The code legal approach is to cut the cable, insert both ends into a junction box, then complete the connection with small splice wire (wire nut, splice wire, wire nut). <S> The junction box must be accessible after you're done, meaning a box with a blank cover. <S> Your electrical tape fix MIGHT be fine, or the conductors MIGHT be damaged. <S> You could do a load test to determine, but for the simple DIY probably not.
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If the conductors are not damaged then you can reinsulate any skinned conductor insulation with good quality electrical tape. In a max-current scenario it could burn and arc. You don't need an electrician to run a new cable between the fan and the switch box, for example.
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Alternatives to knobs for kitchen cabinets? I have very old oak kitchen cabinets that I just can’t see replacing because they are in beautiful condition yet we never had any kind of knobs or hardware to open and close them with. Now that we are older and arthritis is setting in we need the extra help that the knobs would provide but the doors and drawers are just too thick and we suspect that is why the builder never even bothered with the hardware to begin with. Any ideas on maybe some kind of over the door pull system etc that may help us? Thanks <Q> Taking the time (and effort) to drill a hole through the cabinet door, finding longer screws at a hardware store and installing each knob seems much better. <S> Like one of these: <S> https://www.houzz.com/photos/cabinet-and-drawer-knobs/ <S> Or you could install a surface mount <S> pull like this <S> No need to drill through the door or drawer <S> just drill a small pilot hole and use 1/2-3/4 inch screws that usually come with the pulls . <A> Builders being who they are, they probably didn't include knobs to (a) save the $1 per knob plus installation time or <S> (b) that was the "look" at the time. <S> I would actually recommend U-shaped pull handles rather than knobs. <S> Much easier to get a grip because you can "grip" like a knob <S> (hand around the pull or knob) but also stick a finger or two inside the open space to pull. <S> With any pulls or knobs, you can substitute longer screws. <S> Measure the thickness of the doors & drawers <S> (drawer fronts are sometimes thicker than the doors) and then go to a hardware store. <S> Home Depot and similar big stores have a fairly decent selection, in my opinion, or you can go to more of a specialty store, depending on your location. <S> I do recommend going to someplace <S> you can (a) describe the doors and dimensions so they can make sure you get the right screws and <S> (b) see and feel the items as some are much easier to grip than others, rather than trying to order online. <S> For oak (or other wood) cabinets I would probably go with <S> a metal or metal-look plastic handle pull that matches other stuff in your kitchen - e.g., stainless steel or chrome if you have any stainless steel appliances, or brass or similar. <A> These, Truss Head Break Away Screw, #8-32 <S> thread x 1-3/4' are designed to be able to break off at the length you need for cabinet doors of different thickness's.
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Using a “hook-type” cabinet knob Like this: https://www.build.com/top-knobs-tk500-cabinet-pull/s973468 seems like a “red-neck” way to solve this issue.
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How can I use an off-peak controller with my 240v air conditioner? My unit's window mount A/C unit is pictured. I am looking for a converter of some sort so I can use a utility supplied shutoff device. The Unit itself does not have a temperature control or setting. Just on/off, high/low. The electric company provides the wifi plugs as a way to help control energy costs that connect to the AC unit, and I can control the temperature on my phone via wifi vs it just running all day long. I cannot afford to run my AC all day, but have a pet and cannot leave it off all day. I am looking to attach one of those plugs that my electric company has to shut on and off when it reaches a certain temperature in the house. However, I don't know what this is and how to convert? <Q> Here's a work-around. <S> Use the 110v smart switch to turn a normal phone USB charger on/off. <S> Get a USB heating pad for < $2 , or if handy w/ solder, a 500 ohm usb-powered resistor. <S> now you can make a small space slightly warm (or not warm) <S> via wifi wrap the heater around the thermostat temp probe behind the air filter on the AC. <S> You might have to remove the plastic faceplate, but you don't have to heavily mod the AC. <S> Set AC to 90F, or <S> whatever a max temp in the room should be if wifi conks out. <S> To cool the room, turn on the wifi socket, which turns on the usb, which heats the thermostat. <S> To stop cooling the room, turn off outlet/usb, which allows the termostat to reach room temp in about 30 seconds, turning off the AC, since it's cooler than 90F. <S> Advantages: cheap, simple, electrically isolated from mains, no permement AC mod neededDisadvantages: <S> slightly rube goldberg, small lag on on/off, short manual setup routine <S> Of course, you also need a way to get the temp to the smarts that turns the wifi switch on and off, but that's a different question. <S> you can use node-red to setup a simple control loop based on temps and/or state over-rides, for when you're home on the weekend or whatever. <S> EDIT: <S> based on comment If the AC has no thermostat, and you're used to plugging it and unplugging it to control it, you can adapt the above using a 5v 15A relay module instead of a heater to switch the A.C. to the AC on and off. <S> You would power the relay with the USB charger that's being wifi controlled, and connect the relay switch terminals to a splice in the line. <S> If you don't want to splice your landlord's cord (understandable), but an outlet ($5) and pigtail ($15) that fits the cord and splice that miniature "extension cable". <A> Your AC unit needs 240 volts to operate. <S> This is a limitation based on both the outlet itself and the wiring to it. <S> If you want to use this AC unit in a room without 240V, you need to have new, heavier wiring installed to that location. <S> You might consider a new small, energy efficient 120V unit. <S> They often can be found for just over $100. <S> (All of this assumes you are in the US, or another country where 120V is standard.) <A> That's a NEMA 6-15R 250 Volt 15 Amp socket ( http://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/NorthAm-3hd.html ). <S> Many utilities offer discount programs (for example "CoolCents"), where you get a discount but agree that during peak usage times, your AC may briefly be disconnected. <S> These programs once relied on pager based shutoff devices, but they're moving to "internet of things" and wifi connected smart thermostats. <S> Check with your utility company for details. <S> That plug is NOT that uncommon, if a device is available, it should be OK available with that plug. <S> A plug converter, even if you made one, would not help you use this 240V unit with a 120V plug. <S> Window AC units are not that efficient, especially if sun shines directly on the coils on the outside of the building. <S> Consider just turning the temperature dial to the highest possible temperature. <S> The device will run only as much as needed to get to that set point. <S> The A/C does not use energy when the temperature is above the set point.
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While most houses in the US have 240V, most outlets are only wired for 120V. Consider sun shades, an attic fan, or other passive or less costly methods to keep the temperature down. YOU CAN DO MORE WITH SIMPLE CONSERVATION THAN FANCY ELECTRONICS.
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How can I remove broken pipe threads from inside a galvanized tee fitting? As I was trying to break loose the galvanized pipe from a Tee joint, the pipe snapped at the joint. I applied PB blaster to the rusted connection and let it set for about 30-45 minutes before attempting to loosen it. Is there a way to remove the joint without cutting off any of the remaining pipes? <Q> I'd borrow or buy an "inside pipe wrench", then heat the T fitting with a torch for a bit to expand it and give it a crank. <A> If you're careful while you work you can make two cuts in the broken off section until just above the threads on the fitting. <S> That will allow you to knock out a section with a cold chisel. <S> Depending on how bad your luck is running you may need to repeat the process once or twice before you can get the entire piece loose. <S> Clearly the key to success is patience to avoid damaging the fitting. <S> If you do heat it to loosen things up, keep in mind that it's going to take a while with a propane torch. <S> That's quite a lot of mass and it may be a matter of literal minutes before it pops. <S> You can't go wrong with a shield to protect the stuff behind it either. <A> You may have another convenient option. <S> You would then adapt back to the iron pipe at those other joints. <S> The glued PVC fittings are low cost and really easy to work with.
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Since a part of the piping is already PVC with glued fittings you could remove the iron pipe and fittings back to other joints and then replace this problematic TEE and adjacent iron piping with PVC pipe and PVC fittings.
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Are there drawbacks to installing GFCI outlets in sequence? Are there any big downsides to Daisy chaining GFCI outlets? I understand that protection would be redundant. I have an outside outlet that's protected by an upstream GFCI that's located inside the house. I am replacing the outside outlet and am thinking of replacing it with a GFCI. My thinking is that when it trips I'll be able to reset it outside rather than inside. I understand that if the inside outlet trips I won't be able to use the outside one until the inside is reset. <Q> That won't work <S> You're trying to manage sequence of breaker trip, for your convenience of resetting them, and that's tough to do generally. <S> Especially it isn't going to work with GFCI, because they don't work that way. <S> And then, you will have to fight to reset them. <S> I fail to understand the core problem that you are attempting to solve. <S> They shouldn't be tripping at all. <S> If you have a device that is tripping GFCI, fix it. <S> It's broken. <A> If you want to make the two GFCIs independent, then connect the inside one by pigtails to the line. <S> If the outside receptacle is not the terminal one, then connect it also by pigtails. <S> Don't use the "load" connections which are usually sold taped over. <S> If I understand this correctly, this way each GFCI receptacle would only trip if there is a ground fault in something plugged into that receptacle. <A> It may not work the way you think it will You could have any of: Outside outlet trips and inside outlet does not trip - which is what you want Inside outlet trips and outside outlet <S> does not trip BOTH outlets trip <S> I don't think there is any safety problem with this configuration (Harper or one of the other experts can answer that) <S> but I wouldn't count on it working as you expect.
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When there's a ground fault, they all will trip by design.
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20 kW generator overkill for a home? I see 20kW backup generators advertised for homes, but this seems like total overkill, or maybe my math is wrong? According to my energy bill I use about 400 kW hours of electricity per month. So, that would be about 13.3 kW hours per day or 0.5 kW average load. Now, if a generator can generate 20 kW, then it would be total overkill, 40 times what is needed. Am I calculating this wrong? <Q> You can't average the monthly usage over a number of days because the loads aren't constant. <S> Consider the following two scenarios: A 100W light bulb that's turned on constantly for the whole month (30 days). <S> This uses 100W * 24hr / day * 30 day / month = 72 kWh for the month. <S> A 2400W heater that runs one a day for an hour. <S> This uses 2400W * 1hr / day * 30 day / month = <S> 72kWh. <S> Doing an average usage as you did, you would incorrectly assume that both scenarios need the same size generator. <S> But, the second needs a bigger generator since the load is bigger (2400W vs 100W). <S> They use the same amount of electricity because the smaller load is on for much longer. <S> Your house is similar, in that there are some big loads that run for short periods of time <S> (AC being the biggest usually), and then there are some small loads that run for much longer (cable boxes, lights, etc). <S> To determine the size of generator to get, you'll need to consider what you want to run off of it. <S> A lot of people only run a subset of their circuits from a generator to get the essentials - HVAC, a fridge, maybe a couple general receptacles. <S> As a simplified estimate you can take the size of the breakers you want to run (in amps) and multiply it by the voltage (120V for single breakers, 240V for double) and add them up. <S> AC units can very quickly use up most of a generator's capacity! <A> Many other factors involved here. <S> 1) Amperage of all the appliances you are hooking up. <S> ie size of Ac Air Handler(with heat Strips installed) and AC Comperssor number of other major appliances you want to run at the same time off the generator 2) <S> Do you want to install the generator covering all circuits or just a few. <S> ie. <S> are you wanting to run the washer and dryer and oven when running off the generator?3) <S> Bigger is better in this case, especially if you want to cover entire house power when running on generator power. <S> Now a word on transfer Switches(gotta have one) <S> Get on that covers 200 Amps and either replace the existing Circuit Breaker panel or Make it First Sub Panel. <S> From My experience installing a 16KW 65 Amps Whole House Generator last year I had to make some hard choices..... <S> living in FL I choose AC over Oven and Dryer! <S> Edit most 22Kw backup generators are about 91 Amp Capacity. <S> My 16Kw Is 65 Amps. <A> AC power doesn't store. <S> It's not like a 0.5kw generator <S> could chug along all day slowly filling a huge... <S> I don't know... <S> tank of water maybe, that you can draw from on demand. <S> The generator needs to provide peak demand for when the coffeemaker and hairdryer and every other darned thing are in use at once. <S> The rest of the time, the generator is its own "spinning reserve" for in case you turn on one of those loads. <S> It's at full speed but doing next to nothing, powering only your internet router and cell phone charger. <S> That is inefficient, and thus, expensive. <S> Now your house is a fairly small average load, and may be a candidate for a different way of doing things that allows solar as backup. <S> After all, your 0.5kw is only two 270W solar panels, and with the usual 6x design factor for nights and rainy days, that is still only twelve panels. <S> The problem is storage, and that requires DC power, preferably low voltage DC, and then you can use batteries for storage. <S> This ideally involves making wide use of low voltage DC for loads which lend themselves such as lighting, some air handling, TV, router, certain PCs, etc. <S> It's possible to use an inverter to make AC from DC, but the inverter is inefficient all the time, particularly under light load. <S> So you have the same "spinning reserve" problem you have with a generator, where you're paying a king's ransom all the time to have AC power on tap the moment you want it. <S> Better to architect for DC and only spin up an inverter when really needed for a short term use.
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Your generator needs to be sized to provide enough power for all the loads at once.
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How can I prevent this ice build up on my driveway/walkway? My house faces North. I have down spouts on all four corners of the house. My challenge is that in the late winter/ early spring, the sun melts the snow off the roof and comes down the downspouts. On the South side of the house, it's warm enough that the water flows away, and when it doesn't there's no one walking there. On the North side of the house, it's in the shade. When the water hits the ground/concrete of the driveway/walkway it basically freezes instantly. The North East corner is OK, because no one walks there. However, on the North west corner (where the * is in the picture below), we get a huge buildup of ice there. The treatment so far has been mechanical (chipping ice away) and chemical (salt). As it's summer now, it's a good opportunity to fix it permanently. I've had straight extensions on that downspout to extend the flow somewhere better, but: It tends to get stepped on by letter/paper carriers I can't angle it enough to make a real difference without directing it onto the neighbour's walkway If there's any buildup of snow at the bottom, it tends to back the water up into the extension and turns it into an ice log. I've thought about adding a catch basin or running it down the yard underground in a weeping-tile pipe. But on both cases, I'm afraid of it also becoming a block of ice as well. Any thoughts on away around this? <Q> I'm not a professional, and I have very little experience. <S> But: Could you adjust the slope of your gutter? <S> Currently, rain rolls north off the roof, gets to the gutter, half goes east and half goes west. <S> If you lower the north-east corner of the gutter (and gently slope the whole gutter toward it) a majority of the rain would head down the east spout instead of onto your driveway. <A> We design heating cables into driveways and sidewalks for areas that can have an icy buildup and buildings that must have safe access, like medical clinics, hospitals, fire departments, etc. <S> Also, high-end residents will often request it. <S> Here’s a link for new or retrofit work: <S> http://systems.warmquest.com/radiant-driveway-heating-systems/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOvsBRAjEiwAuY7L8nf2UgwO6lrlQa7gdDArcySc_ugLc8oGkuY7pbjFos1TVQjG7KjHSxoCx8UQAvD_BwE <S> You can install it with a manual on-off switch or a thermostat to turn on automatically. <A> I would suggest the cheapest in my mind would be direct your spout to the West. <S> If your houses driveway is facing Northwest is to the left of the picture. <S> I am answering this because I believe the spout is now facing North, correct! <S> and I am not sure how much property you have to the west of your house. <S> Hope this was helpful. <A> That's probably what you mean by a "weeping-tile pipe". <S> This works well for me out of a corner that never gets sun despite the pipe not being very deep - it runs under a patio for about 30' and is probably only about 18" under the surface.
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I would dig a trench to somewhere convenient, put in a drain pipe and run the downspout into that.
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Trying to replace the adjuster screw on a screen door -- low-profile threaded screw insert and bolt (identification needed) On my sliding patio screen door there is an height adjuster held in place by flat-profile screw inserts. I'd like to obtain more of these threaded bolts and inserts, but I have a nomenclature issue where I can't identify them precisely. The bottom and top rails of the frame allow sliding up and down to adjust the overall height of the door. The height setting is locked with a phillips-head bolt and screwed insert which looks like a rivet. this is the back view. What type of screw is that? It looks like the insert for a rivet nut (rivnut), but the lip is larger. I could assemble something like it with rivnuts, but I'd need to buy the corresponding crimping tool. It could be a Chicago screw post (used to bind leather pieces or photo album books), but I've not been able to find any Chicago screw posts that are of matching dimensions and material (I'd need M4-9mm screw with 10mm insert). If there is a generic name that captures both rivnuts and chicago posts, I don't know it. Any fastener which is slim would probably work (the frame needs to be as thin as possible to slide freely around the glass panel frame). I'll probably just end up using a slim nut and bolt cut to length if I can't find out what it is. <Q> They are most often called a "binding post", at least that is what the fastener suppliers in the U.S. generally sell them as. <S> I have heard people call them "Chicago nuts" but not often. <S> As a side note, those adjustable sliding screen doors are difficult to make work properly and of poor quality. <S> Do yourself a favor and get a custom made heavy duty door, with a frame made of extruded aluminum. <S> They are worth the investment over the long haul, provided they are sized correctly and installed and maintained properly. <S> At least that has been my experience. <A> I too have the same problem with my cheap screen door. <S> I believe I might be able to fix it with a sex bolt (which the actual name for the hardware). <A>
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Try "connector screw", "knockdown bolt", or "cap nut".
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Capping off a single (large) wire? I have a five-conductor 2 AWG cable (three phases, neutral, and ground) connected into a 22.5 kVA (i.e., very big and dangerous) power supply. This is being used for research relating to ground faults, so the points at which the system is grounded are carefully controlled, and the ground wire is not connected to the power supply, though it does need to be present (even if it didn't, it's a five-conductor cable and we can't exactly pull one of the conductors out without unreasonable force that would risk damaging the other conductors). So the question is this: how can I safely terminate this single 2 AWG wire in a manner that keeps it well-insulated from the power supply chassis? I was thinking of using a wire nut to just cap off the single wire, but there don't seem to be any designed to take a 2 AWG wire. Is there a keyword I can use to search for these? Edit: also of note is that this is a ground wire and will be at ground potential, it just can't be connected to ground here. The other cables at the power supply output are carrying no more than 600 V (actually, the power supply might only go up to 500 V) so there's no high voltage that risks multi-centimeter arcs or corona discharge or anything. <Q> Here is one possibility- "cold shrink" silicone insulator. <S> Check the voltage rating for whatever type you are looking at. <A> There are standards in each country to follow, like using an interior or exterior junction box with a taped wirenut on wire. <S> If the warning label disappeared . <S> Should someone guess if the loose live wire is live but looks dead? <S> Who will know what ground fault tests may be done in future to induce a few kV transients to stress a possible loosened wirenut and short circuit creating an arc flash fire . <S> Don't do a Mickey Mouse job. <A> Industrial electricians use split bolts to join larger wires then a layer of cambric tape like 2520 then a layer of rubber tape 130c and finish off with super88. <S> Some will use super33 but 88 is thicker and resist punctures better. <S> Since the wire won't be used as a conductor the tape is a way of identifying it is not in use and will protect from any induced (phantom) voltage on the wire 480v <S> phantom voltages can bite enough to wake you up with the right conditions. <S> 480 being the standard in the U.S. for heavy industrial, I know there are voltages from 208-500 across the pond and super 88 will protect there also.
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At number 2 wire that is not live I would use super88 electrical tape. You pull on the end of the coiled plastic and it unravels, leaving the silicone cap to shrink onto the end of the wire.
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How should coax cable enter the house in a harsh climate? In our house, coax cable comes from the utility in a rear alley, then is joined to a separate cable that enters the house on the second floor. Here's a photo: The black cable on the left comes from the utility; the beige cable on the right enters the house. This is in a place with a fairly harsh climate: -20℃ in winter to +30℃ in summer is perfectly normal, annual snowfall and rainfall are both plentiful, and we get lots of sunshine, high humidity, low humidity, freezing rain, and thunderstorms. Hurricanes and volcanoes are not a concern. Is this standard practice for coax cable? More importantly, is it weatherproof? If not: is it my responsibility to fix, or the cable company's? (I'm in Montreal, Canada, and the cable company is Vidéotron.) The cable from the utility is new, having been replaced in Aug 2017 after a storm. The cable entering the house is not new, but it doesn't appear to be in terrible condition. <Q> I don't think it matters all that much. <S> I can't find a minimum operating temp for coax, but most wires tend to list -20C as their minimum, and that's mostly for bending reasons. <S> So if it got hit in the middle of winter, maybe it might get damaged. <S> Maybe... As far as weatherproof... What you have in your picture is the grounding block. <S> I have plenty of coax connections exposed to the elements. <S> I've not seen them experience anything bad from it. <S> More modern installs tend to put this inside a plastic box <S> but I had a satellite dish with a block like that <S> and it was fully exposed as well. <S> If I were you, however, I would check the wire going into the house. <S> My bet is it's RG59. <S> If you're looking to improve this you could Replace the RG59 with RG6 (quad shield if you can get it). <S> You'll get a better signal, which is important for things like cable modems. <S> Put it in conduit. <A> The tool used for applying the connectors ensures good sealing. <S> The outer metal may corrode slightly but not sufficiently to impair performance. <S> As the connectors are today's products, it's also likely that the cable is already RG-6. <S> The frequencies used for the multitude of channels in a cable television system requires RG-6 to reduce signal loss caused by RG-59 at higher frequencies. <S> In my previous years as a cable television installer, then service tech, I often pondered the lack of PVC protection. <S> The logic is that for all of the installations performed, cheap wire is less expensive than PVC or other protective devices, but a homeowner can certainly provide such materials pre-installed for the cable installer to use. <S> With respect to the elements, the key feature is that the cable has a drip loop prior to entering any hole through the structure. <S> Condensation and precipitation has to run down the loop and fall off, rather than be guided into the hole by a cable run vertically above the entry hole. <S> Such entries are usually plugged with Duct-Seal, while some homeowners will use caulk or silicone sealing. <S> Duct-Seal is paintable, and much easier to remove than caulk should the installation have to be re-done. <A> I don't know standards for installing a cable TV service in Canada but in US normally we mount a house box to protect splitters and ground block from weather.
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PVC electrical conduit is cheap and if you can limit exposure to the elements it's worth the effort. The connectors shown in the image are "contemporary technology" and have sealing gaskets incorporated into the design.
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Coating copper with aluminium powder I am about to install a copper weathervane which will also work as lightning conductor (it will be mounted on top of an earthed aluminium flagpole). Because: exposed to weather, copper will corrode and become looking likethe Statue of Liberty; and I want the weathervane to look white/silver/metallic — I am looking for options to coat the weathervane with conductive metallic layer which will: Protect copper from corrosion Be electrically conductive Look white/silver/metallic Products like EMI/RFI shielding would perhaps be ideal for the purpose, but the problem is that they are not available in New Zealand, and they are classified as dangerous goods to be shipped here by ordinary mail (except for water based, but this won't be weather resistant). I am therefore looking at making conductive coat myself from aluminium powder. What kind of base/resin should I use? <Q> You are way overthinking this. <S> First, ever hear of companies doing chrome plating? <S> Yes. <S> Zinc plating (galvanizing)? <S> Yes. <S> Aluminum plating? <S> No. <S> And there's a reason for that! <S> Aluminum corrodes horribly in the weather <S> , it would be somewhat less desirable than manure plating. <S> Just buy cold galvanizing compound . <S> It is paint that's over 90% zinc, designed to repair/restore things which were galvanized. <S> The remaining 10% is the resin that holds the paint together, and the solvents which evaporate. <S> It weathers to the appearance of a galvanized tin roof. <S> The solids are heavy and really want to separate. <S> It takes a long time to stir it up. <S> It wants to separate in the paint cup while you are painting, so you must constantly stir it up from the bottom. <S> Also, it's liable to break a paint shaker unless the shaker is designed for much larger cans. <S> Seriously, the can is so heavy you want to heat it up to see if it says "One ring to rule them all". <S> If you must make your own paint, don't use epoxy as a base. <S> Sunlight destroys epoxy. <S> But there are several other things like epoxy which don't have that problem, and they are widely used by shops that make skateboards and surfboards. <S> An example is polyurethane, which comes in 2 parts, you mix it like epoxy, mix in your powdered metal base, and off you go. <S> Also before you say "not available in NZ", do make sure you've done some genuine detective work. <S> Industrial procurement is never easy. <S> I need a custom crankshaft for an obsolete industrial diesel, they don't sell those at Walmart and it isn't on the Internet . <S> You have to dig, dig, dig through the industrial supply network. <A> If you want another alternative to painting and the copper is bright and brand new. <S> On top of that it has no existing soldered joints, you could apply soldering flux over the whole thing and melt a coat of lead or solder over it with a torch and bar solder <S> You may be able to find solid lead bars too, they have a lower melting point than 50-50 solder <A> You are making it too complicated.
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About any "silver" colored paint contains aluminum flake as pigment and would satisfy your requirements.
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Ways to add proper ventilation to attic with ridge vent on roof? We got a new roof about four ago. The attic is unfinished. It's a split level home, and hot as Hades upstairs. Unfortunately, the roofers didn't consider attic ventilation. They installed a ridge vent, but the only intake is a gable vent near the peak of the roof. Now we realize that hot air stays at the bottom of the attic in that scenario. So we need to add ventilation at the bottom of the attic. Our soffits are not vented. Seems to me the options are to vent the soffits, or to add a shingle-over intake vent along the lower edge of the roof (then seal up the gable vent). Is either of these options preferable for a relatively new roof? We live in DC. <Q> I would add soffit vents. <S> If it's wood soffit <S> it's fairly easy to cut the holes with a small rotary saw or an oscillating multi tool. <S> Then screw on prefab vents from any outlet supply. <S> If it's aluminum fascia on front then removing the fascia first makes removing and reinstalling panels is a snap. <S> Just first remove the aluminum fascia (on front) by pulling the bottom nails with pliers. <S> I always like to screw the alum fascia back on with small stainless Phillips screws. <S> But if it's wood fascia that usually hangs down past the soffit in front, it becomes more problematic. <S> I don't want to try and explain that to you other than give you a heads up that application can be more of a problem replacing alum soffit panels. <S> Oh <S> and if the gable vents are not leaking in blowing rain, just leave them, they will just give more top level air escape. <S> I see no need to seal up the gable vent unless you see evidence of gable vents taking in water in a blowing rain (some do, some don't) <S> If that is not a previous problem then just leave them. <S> The will have no negative effect on ventilation in any option scenario. <A> You say, “Unfortunately the roofers didn’t consider ventilation.” <S> Actually, it’s not an option. <S> It’s required by code. <S> I’d cancel the check and have them return to finish the job. <S> (See ICC R806.) <S> Your attic is required to have ventilation at 1/150 the area of the attic. <S> (See ICC R806.1.) <S> So, If your house is 24’ x 40’ then you need 24’ <S> x 40’ / <S> 150 = 6.4 sf. <S> However, there is an exception that allows 1/300 the area if between 40% and 50% of the ventilation is in the upper third of your attic. <S> (See ICC R806.2) <S> There is another exception that deals with your vapor barrier, but you need a Class I or II installed on the warm-in-winter side. <S> Did they get a Building Permit? <A> Which type of fan would depend on the construction of your roof. <S> There are even solar powered attic fans.
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Another option is to put an exhaust fan in your attic, on a thermostat. If it's aluminum soffit I've replaced solid panels with vented also and you could space them out and put in as only as many as desired.
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Can you run 230v powertool on single pole 20 amp breaker? (Location: Ontario Canada if that makes a difference) I want to run a 230V 1 PHASE 9.6 AMP table saw. I only have a single 15amp breaker that is not being used left in my panel. To run the saw, is it enough to replace the 15amp breaker with a single-pole 20amp breaker and wire a new outlet into it (realizing the wiring needs to be compatible with 20amps)? Or do I need a double pole breaker? <Q> So yes, you definitely need a double-pole breaker. <S> Both "hot" wires need to be protected from over current. <A> In North America where you are (thanks for clarifying by the way), you cannot get 240V from a single pole breaker. <S> Your choices are to have an electrician see if it is possible to consolidate a couple of circuits in order to free up another space so that he can install a 2 pole breaker for your saw, buy a 120V motor for the saw, or install a transformer near the table saw that will take 120V in and give you 240V out. <S> None of those options is going to be inexpensive, but I would opt for calling an electrician. <A> No. <S> You need to deal with the overstuffed panel somehow. <S> And by "you" I mean either an electrician... <S> or you after tossing away your electronic-design mindset, thoroughly digesting a book on home electrical, and asking some questions here on the DIY stack. <S> You can't google knowledge like that, google only answers questions and you need a well rounded primer on the subject to even know which questions to ask . <S> Assuming we get past the initial formalities like dangerous FPE or Zinsco brands, dodgy Challengers and odd-layout hard-to-procure Pushmatics, and you have a workable panel... <S> Then we can have a conversation about the service you have, how to rearrange what you have to get the spaces you need, whether you should be doing a subpanel, and how to provision the breaker you need. <S> By the way, this problem is typical of "Craigslist finds" - the reason the thing was cheap on Craigslist is the other fella was having trouble powering it too and never even ran it to test. <S> Craigslist is glutted with 3-phase tools for that reason. <S> However given the power hunger of this saw, 240V single-phase (it is single-phase? <S> Right?) is the right type of power to use. <S> 9.6 amp is well within the working range of a 240V@15A circuit, cake for a 240V/20A circuit. <S> But even if it could be jumpered for 120V, it would be 19.2A <S> which is really kissing the limits for a 20A circuit. <S> Got a 30A circuit anywhere? <S> Dryer? <S> (If so let's talk about that one , dryer circuits can be weirdly lethal.)
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You need a 2 pole breaker, each pole connected to one of the two bus bars in the CB panel (there is a reason for that stipulation). AFAIK, Canada uses the same split-phase arrangement as the USA to deliver 230 V to the premises, with the center tap grounded as the "neutral" wire.
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LEDs are burning out quickly I am an DIYer and replaced bathroom light fixtures 3 years ago. Was using halogen and incandescent bulbs, but decided to switch entire house to LED. I admit that I purchased these bulbs from the dollar store and that may be part of the problem. Four of the nine bulbs have burned out after a few months. However, I just bought a new batch of bulbs from Home Depot, but do not want to install them if there could be another issue. It is in a bathroom and there are 3 fixtures chained together with 3 bulbs apiece. I believe the wiring is all correct or the fixtures would not have worked for 3 years? Right? The only other thing to note is that the switch itself is one of those lit ones that you see at night. That was also causing a problem with the LED bulbs glowing at night because they were picking up the current from the switch. Did some internet searching to solve that one. I changed the last bulb in the series to a different type of LED and the glow disappeared. Do you feel it is the bulbs, switch. Or, possibly the wiring? <Q> I'm pretty sure it's a quality issue, possibly exacerbated by minor power issues that probably can't be fixed. <S> Several years ago, I found a 2-pack of bulbs at Costco. <S> They were LG bulbs and pretty pricey ( <S> $15/bulb if memory serves). <S> Other than having my kids break the glass cover (bulb works fine), those bulbs have lasted through years of regular use. <S> By contrast I bought a 12-pack on a Black Friday sale a couple of years ago. <S> While some bulbs are doing just fine, I've had to replace 3, although one might have been due to a dimmer that was on one fixture before I swapped it for a normal switch. <S> I've even had some cheaper "branded" bulbs burn out on me within a year. <S> So what gives? <S> There's a few reasons why cheaper bulbs burn out quicker. <S> The largest is that LED bulbs have to perform a power transformation before they can power the LEDs. <S> Cheaper bulbs invariably means cheaper components to transform that power. <S> Add in that your house might not have the best wiring or random power fluctuations <S> and you have a recipe for disaster for these cheap components. <S> I would check your voltage to make sure it's steady. <S> If it's not, buying a dimmable LED for those locations might be advisable. <S> Because they're built for the power change they tend to have higher quality power transformation. <A> Are the fixtures fully enclosed or are the bulbs exposed to open air? <S> LED bulbs, while they generate much less heat than incandescent, do generate heat and the driver circuitry in the base can be distroyed by excess heat. <S> If you look on the packaging for many LED bulbs, you’ll see the wording “not for enclosed fixtures”. <S> If you are using enclosed fixtures, look for bulbs so rated. <S> Otherwise, you may have to leave those incandescent. <A> Do you feel it is the bulbs, switch. <S> Or, possibly the wiring? <S> I doubt the wiring is a problem. <S> It is fairly unlikely the backlit switch would cause a premature failure. <S> It is possible that the bulbs are poor quality and failed early. <S> The driver circuitry built into the base of LED bulbs sometimes use electrolytic capacitors - which can also fail early if run hot.
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If the fixtures were designed for old-fashioned incandescent filament light bulbs, which don't mind getting very hot, it is possible they don't provide enough air-flow to cool the LED bulbs, which are generally more sensitive to overheating.
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AC condensation line dripping from attic drain and splashing onto drywall During the summer when it gets 90+ degrees outside my ac creates a lot of drainage from the attic. The drain line was made to just drip onto the garage floor by the homebuilder. Well the water, especially on 90+ days, is splashing onto the drywall. There were a couple mold spots I treated with bleach and now have plexiglass in front of.. Is this a normal installation? What's the best way to fix this issue because my current set up obviously isn't a good long term fix. I'm a complete newbie so I apologize for my ignorance about this. Thanks so much. <Q> An AC unit will produce condensate all the time, not just when its over a certain temp outside. <S> Check your AC Unit in the attic. <S> The Primary AC condensate drain is normally drained to either the main house drain or to the outside via a PVC pipe about the same size as the on draining into the garage. <S> There is a secondary drain, think an emergency notification that the Primary Drain is clogged. <S> or not working. <S> The drain you are seeing in the garage is most likely hooked to the drip pan hanging under the AC unit to catch any leaks not handled by the main drain, or the AC Air Handler sweating in the heat of the attic. <S> In most areas the drip pan is supposed to be an electrical float system to shut off the AC unit <S> is there is too much condensate in it, as that means there is something going on with the AC unit. <S> Use the attic access in the garage right next the drain pipe and see if that is the drain attached to the Air Handler itself or the emergency drain attached to the drip pan. <S> If it leads outside, it normally will be draining somewhere near the AC Compressor outside, but might be somewhere else. <S> If you find it outside, a quick fix is to clear it out using a wet vac. <A> Seems to me that when the AC is running the water should be draining through the pipe that is going into the water heater closet. <S> If there's no water going through that pipe then most likely <S> it's plugged. <S> Is there an access panel so you can see from the inside and see if water is draining into the two pvc drain pipes. <S> My guess it will because the plugged up area is most likely where the multiple 90 degree fittings are. <S> The good part is it's pvc so as long as you cut it in the middle of a straight section <S> it's real easy to glue it back together. <S> It looks like they tried to make a trap, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you need one since that closet drain is open. <A> Without being able to inspect the installation, it's difficult to say for sure, but here's my $0.02. <S> The main condensate drain is not plumbed properly, which causes it to drain slowly. <S> When the unit is producing more than average condensate, the main drain is overwhelmed. <S> This causes condensate to use the secondary drain, which drains into the drip pan. <S> If this problem just started (didn't happen before in similar situations), then it's possible that the main drain is clogged/restricted. <S> If that's the case, you'll want to clean/clear the main drain. <S> If this is not a new problem, you might want to consider fixing the main drain. <S> The other possibility, is that the unit is simply sweating due to high humidity. <S> If this is the case, then you'll have to manage the water coming from the drip pan more effectively. <S> This could as simple as extending the pipe, and having it drain in a more convenient location.
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If not I would cut the drain pipe that goes to the closet near the AC unit and see if water runs out. Long and short Pics of the AC unit in the attic will help diagnose the issues, but most certainly a call to the AC Service Company is most likely a good thing if they have not been out to Service the AC system this year! If you see another PVC pipe connected to the Air Handler itself, follow it in the attic to see where it goes.
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Re-painting drywall after patching leaves tones I patched a few scrapes and small holes in the drywall, then got a can of color-matched paint in the hardware store (I took a sample with me, they color-matched it and prepared the paint). It is a white color anyways. However after I applied a first coat, I clearly see that there is a difference in color tones on the wall - the new coat is "darker" then the original one. So I applied the 2nd coat at one part of the wall to see any changes - but I see no difference. Was I supposed to apply a primer first? Isn't it late now to apply it and then re-paint? Thanks. <Q> Three things: <S> Yes, you were supposed to apply a primer. <S> Fresh joint compound and drywall soak up paint like crazy. <S> The primer serves to seal the joint compound and drywall and create a consistent surface. <S> However, you've already painted - and the paint will do the same thing - just not as effectively and you'll probably need to do a third coat. <S> Paint takes time to cure and changes color as it does <S> It takes about 30 days for paint to cure fully - and usually the color will deepen as it does - so <S> after your 3rd coat let it set a week and see if it's starting to blend in. <S> Pro's who get multiple cans of paint at a time for a room will blend the 2 together before painting to ensure uniformity. <S> Obviously it's too late for you to do that <S> - your old paint was dry - but worst case <S> if you really can't stand it after it's cured - just paint the one wall with a new coat. <S> Having a whole wall be slightly off <S> color won't stand out anywhere near as much as having a spot of paint off color. <A> The paint likely does not match perfectly, either in color or in amount of gloss. <S> Those color matching machines can be hit or miss... <S> If it bothers you - paint the entire wall with the new paint <S> and you’ll never notice the slight difference in color. <A> In addition to other comments: If your wall has a texture to it, orange peel texture spray can help to make it more seamless. <S> Applying it is an art. <S> A little goes a long way and you need to get the spray pattern right. <S> Definitely practice on an old board first on a wall you don't care about like in a basement. <S> Feathering the edges into the surrounding area will also help confuse the lines. <S> It's almost impossible in my experience to get it exact. <S> I've gotten pretty close but at certain angles the glare will be different. <S> If you really want perfect uniformity, you need to repaint the entire wall but that still won't work if the patch is perfectly smooth and the wall isn't. <A> Had a job that involved color matching plastic parts, vinyl, painted parts and rubber. <S> surface texture was a large problem for matching, even tho samples submitted would match numerically within 5%. <S> Material of which the parts were made caused significant difference. <S> We used two brands of color match instrumentation plus a light booth where different lighting was available; in the end, while I made sure the color instrumentation matched the colors tested, I had three sets of human eyes view and sign off the samples that were deemed acceptable.
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Your paint may never match perfectly Paint age matters - and no matter how good the technology, 2 cans of paint are 2 cans of paint.
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How long do tree stumps take to decay? I had a large tree in my yard cut down to about 8' above ground. It now has two stumps joined at the base. I am planning to build a treehouse for my kids around the stump with the weight being held by 1/2 inch threaded rods through the trees holding up 2x10s. The stumps are about 20 inches in diameter. I am worried that it might not be long before the stumps will rot and be too weak to hold up the weight of the treehouse. How long of a life can I expect from my treehouse? Is there anything I can do to increase the life? I am planning on treating the top of the stumps with bora-care to deter bugs. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated. <Q> There are too many factors here to give any sort of objective answer: <S> Local climate Tree species <S> Tree health Location conditions <S> Future weather, insects, etc. <S> Ultimately it comes down to your tolerance for risk. <S> A stump of that diameter will remain structurally sound at its core for a number of years, within reason. <S> I'd consider it robust enough to support a modest structure (say 4x6 feet, weighing at most a few hundred lbs.) <S> for at least four. <S> However, the outer edges will begin to decay first. <S> I wouldn't rely on lag screws, for example, for load bearing. <S> I'd be cutting notches into the top of the stump to carry beams, and relying on mechanical fasteners only for stability. <S> Check it every year for signs of instability. <S> It'll be fairly apparent when it starts to get sketchy. <A> Holding everything “up” is not the problem. <S> The stump is taking the load in “parallel grain” direction so it will hold the tree house and half the neighborhood kids easily. <S> The problem is rotation. <S> When everyone runs to one side of the tree house, you’ll have a lot of force wanting to rotate those 2x10’s. <S> The weak link is going to be keeping the tree house from rotating, not holding it up. <S> You might consider adding a diagonal brace under the tree house down to the tree stump. <S> When you drill holes for the bolts, that will allow water to enter at the structural connection...and that will cause dryrot...exactly where you don’t want it. <S> I’d seal the hole with tar or wax to reduce moisture infiltration. <A> Enjoy it now, it doesn't last as long as you want it to.
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From my experience, the stump will outlast your kid's interest in the playhouse...
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How best to drill pilot holes through hardened steel exterior door frame? I'm trying to drill pilot holes through my exterior door frame in order to install a weather seal. I purchased a few new cobalt drill bits labeled for hardened steel. However, each new bit was only able to drill one pilot hole before losing its ability to drill holes. After two bits, I tried applying some oil to a third new bit to keep it from overheating, and while that worked in keeping the bit cool, it still was only able to successfully drill one pilot hole. After the initial hole, the bits stopped working and could no long drill through the steel. Any thoughts? <Q> If it is possible that you used the drill bit with the electric drill set to the wrong rotation direction, without realizing it, the freshly ground new drill bit will likely be able to drill a hole through the thin steel but at the same time will dull and round off sharp edges so much that a second reverse operation would never start to cut into the metal. <S> The electric drill has to be setup to rotate the drill bit in the direction shown in this picture: <A> This is what I have used to drill through steel beams. <S> Mind you this is much cheaper than what I use for commercial use but still works very well and can be found on Amazon or most hardware stores. <S> $10 <S> Amazon.com link <A> Use a masonry bit! <S> Don't believe me just try it. <S> You may need to sharpen end a bit into a pointy arrow type shape, med speed, grease the drill site, reasonable push as you drill <A> You don't mention the specifics of the technique you tried, so I'll offer general metal drilling advice: <S> Drill slow. <S> Assuming you have appropriate drill bits, the thing that is dulling them is too much heat. <S> As a test, if the bit is too hot to touch, you're going too fast. <S> Use Oil. <S> This reduces friction (heat) and helps dissipate heat. <S> Any type of lubricating oil will do in a pinch, but cutting fluid is designed for this. <S> Use a Step Bit for larger holes. <S> These function essentially as progressively larger pilot holes, so you're not cutting so much metal at once. <S> Not necessarily applicable to your scenario. <A> You do not have hardened steel doors . <S> Get new sharp bits, you don't need high speed steel but most of them claim to be that. <S> Turn the bit slowly with a variable speed drill , with high pressure and oil. <S> You should see metal shavings quickly. <S> Drilling in a spot where you spun the bit previously will be more difficult because that steel will be cold worked. <S> Cold working can easily triple the hardness of the steel ; maybe you do have hardened steel doors ( in small spots). <S> It will be easier to start with a small bit then a larger bit. <S> The oil is mostly to lubricate; real high speed steel will cut at 1000 F <S> so cooling is not so important. <S> The gold color on bits is a very thin layer of titanium nitride ; nitriding is also done on steel but is just black.
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Your bits are almost certainly dull from turning too fast with-out enough pressure. A Steel Step Drill Bit. Carbide point mason bits have poor geometry to cut steel.
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hanging a water hose holder on stucco... do I need to find a stud? I am hanging a water hose holder for a 50 foot all-rubber hose. This holder can be mounted with 6 screws (2 rows X 3 columns). Would it be necessary to try to at least get that middle column attached to a stud or should standard wall anchors be sufficient? <Q> I would recommend just getting a stand. <S> Once you get through stucco it's not sealed and moisture and air gets in and causes rotting behind the stucco. <S> Most carpenters and cladders may tell you to just spray foam or some sort of sealant will do the trick. <S> But I am a restocking specialist, I have the carpenter and fire flood and mold restoration experience. <S> I tell you to think of it deeply, the stucco acts like cement it stretches and shrinks there for once the sealant is cracked it's not going to expand or shrink with the stucco. <S> Some will tell you to fill it with stucco. <S> But again unless you are the one who installed it to know the exact brand that was originally used there is different ingredients in different brands meaning again expansion and shrinkage <S> are all off set. <S> I know alot of people won't think it really matters one little hole. <S> But moisture once behind the stucco becomes drops that can infiltrate the tightest spots and go far. <S> Rotting everything behind it. <S> But that's just my 2 cents based on almost 2 decades of experience dealing with this stuff. <A> The stucco is not strong enough to support anything... <S> (BTW, you can probably find a good stud under each side of your windows.) <A> This hose is not that heavy <S> 1 stud would easily support the weight. <S> But what type of siding / sub siding? <S> In some homes pre 50's with a sub siding of <S> angled 1" I would not worry about hitting a stud. <S> If a more modern home with ? <S> Sub siding I would want to hit a stud on 1 point wether right left or center. <S> I have seen some homes that had no sub siding because the wrap and exterior siding met code in the 70's I would absoulty want a stud in this case because there were thousands of siding failures in my area mostly the vinyl clad chip board and that stuff has no strength 25 years later and many houses had to be resided with some $ from class action lawsuits , but it will be best to hit at least 1 stud if possible. <S> Since you have stucco what is the base, some are just chicken wire, prior to the 50's many were built with expanded steel lath , if that kind of exterior 3 rows by 2 would be fine, chicken wire stucco hit a stud or the first time you pull on the hose you may be shocked at the damage.
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but yes you should try and hit 1 stud. Yes, you want to find a good solid stud to anchor into, because if the teenage animals that you live with are anything like the teenage animals that I live with they will not be kind to it.
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Will 1x4 or 1x6 boards span 3 feet between beams for a walking bridge? I have a foot bridge I wish to plank with 1x4 or 1x6 material. The bridge is 3' wide. The planks will be simply supported at each end by 4" beams. Will a 1x4 or a 1x6 3' long support a 200 pound load? <Q> The boards will flex something awful, which makes for an unpleasant walking experience. <S> Tying them together with an unsupported stringer in the middle will make things quite a bit less wobbly. <S> If the bridge is short then an X-shaped brace between the beams will give you much better support with the same look. <S> Three feet is a really wide span for rotten or insect-damaged boards. <S> Falling through a floor all the way to your hip is hilarious for everyone who sees it, but not an experience I'd be keen to repeat. <S> With a 4" board any way you stand you're spanning two of them. <A> 1x4's will flex more than 1x6 material. <S> As to whether it can support a 200 pound load is up in the air because we have no idea what type of material you are using. <S> Oak boards would hold more than fir boards which in turn will be able to support more than soft pine boards. <S> Another thing to consider is that often time a bridge structure is built with the support beams closer together than the full width of the bridge tread boards. <S> This has the decided advantage of letting the boards support more because the span between the beams is less. <S> The boards overhang some but can still support the load near the ends. <S> For say a 3 foot wide tread let them overhang the beams by 3.5 inches on each end. <S> If you have 4x4 posts bolted to the side of the beam that extend up for a safety/hand rail just notch the boards around the posts. <A> Five-quarter decking is much more appropriate for that span, and even that is still a bit light. <S> Two-by decking is much better. <S> Regardless, run a floating rail down the center and screw each deck board to it with two screws. <S> This will spread the load to adjacent deck boards and prevent most of your flex. <S> The bottom line is that pressure-treated one-by boards are probably more expensive than PT 5/4 decking anyway. <S> I would certainly not use untreated one-by boards. <S> They'll be rotting and (more) dangerous within a few years. <A> This all seems like “opinion-based” answers. <S> Okay, I’ll give one more “opinion-based” answer. <S> The op’s question is, “...will 1x4 or 1x6 <S> that is 3’ long support 200 lbs.?” <S> Structural calculations are based on “ultimate design” or “working stress design”. <S> When using ultimate design (or failure) we then calculate a “safety factor” into the calculations. <S> Depending on the structural element we’ll use a higher or lower factor, (say:1.5 for common area floors and 2.2 for critical beams.) <S> Working stress design has a safety factor already calculated into the equations. <S> Unfortunately, I don’t know of a safety factor for “bridges”. <S> (FIU bridge designers evidently don’t either.) <S> Hmmm...so, based on experience, I wouldn’t use anything less than a 2x material. <S> If the material is cedar or redwood, which is good for exterior use, (but weaker than other species,) or if it’s pressure treated material (which looses its strength when pumped full of pressure treatment liquid), only 2x material will support 200 lbs. <S> (BTW, the op didn’t say 200 lbs. <S> per square foot... <S> just 200 lbs. <S> for a 1x4 or 1x6. ) <S> Also, all grading rules allow some “non-compliant” material to be included. <S> So, if you choose one of those boards, they will fail.
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I personally would opt for the 1x4 if all other things were equal.
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What happens if I use the DC Voltage setting on an AC line? What about the reverse? I have a run of those low voltage lighting systems in the hallway. The kind that have a two parallel exposed wires, with fixtures that clamp on in various spots on the wires and then take an MR16 bulb. I am curious what the voltage is across these lines, but I didn't install these, so I don't know if the transformer is outputting 12VDC or AC. I can't easily get to the transformer. My multimeter has a single set of holes for voltage readings, then I select either VDC or VAC on the dial. What happens if I get this wrong? Is it dangerous? Assume the multimeter is rated for more voltage than I am going to find in this situation. <Q> As long as the meter's voltage range is initially set to at least the highest that can be there, you won't damage the meter, especially if you make just a momentary initial connection to see what the meter does. <S> What happens with the readings will depend in part on the type of meter, whether it auto-senses polarity, whether it is auto-ranging, and whether it has a digital display. <S> For example, a mechanical meter with a needle and scale will "peg" the needle below zero if the meter is set to DC, and you measure a DC voltage with the polarity reversed. <S> It will peg the needle at the end of the scale if the voltage is higher than the setting, either AC or DC with the correct polarity. <S> It will show zero or an error if the polarity is reversed and it isn't auto-sensing. <S> AC will display as zero voltage on a DC setting, regardless of the polarity. <S> Reversing the leads and still reading zero will distinguish this from DC with reversed polarity if the meter displays zero for reversed polarity DC. <S> Measuring DC on an AC setting will depend on the meter. <S> The meter rectifies AC to turn it into DC for a reading. <S> DC with polarity in reverse of the rectifier will read zero. <S> Reversing the leads should give you a reading, but it is likely to be inaccurate because the meter is scaled for the rectified voltage. <S> The combination of AC/DC settings and polarity reversal should allow you to figure out whether the source is DC or AC. <A> Power has both a DC and AC component <S> However in human made power, normally only one is created. <S> The other one will give you useless/null redings. <S> Imagine your car has a hatchback with gas door <S> lifts to assist raising the door, and a high mounted center brake light. <S> There are no wires through the door hinges; positive and negative travel through the two gas door lifts. <S> And now designers want parking lights there too. <S> You can run wires through the door hinge, but they tend to break. <S> You put an electronic chopper on the parking light circuit, which pulses the power at about 1000Hz. <S> Then you run this through a transformer tuned for 1000Hz, and 24VAC comes out the other side. <S> This is paralleled with the brake light circuit, with an LC filter to keep the 24VAC out of the rest of the brake light circuit. <S> These two signals share the two "wires" and run up the hatch lifts. <S> On the hatch itself, you have another transformer which knocks 24VAC down to 12VAC to feed the parking lights - the incandescent bulbs don't care. <S> However brake light DC cannot pass through the transformer so it won't work the parking lights. <S> Then you have another LC filter to keep AC from lighting up the brake light at 24V. <S> Now if you were troubleshooting that circuit, you could be switching back and forth between AC and DC modes on your meter, quite a lot, without ever moving the wires. <S> However that isn't usually done, so usually the wrong mode will give you no useful info. <A> You'll get a wrong reading, likely zero or close to it <S> Either way around, your meter won't read correctly. <S> I checked with my Fluke 77 III and it reads 0VAC on a DC source (Leader LPS152A bench supply) and gets stuck in an autoranging loop when set to DC while trying to read an AC source (wall outlet). <S> Update: I also checked this with my Brymen BM235, and it reads 0 or effectively 0 in both cases (AC mode on the same DC source as before, and DC mode while trying to read a wall-outlet AC source). <A> I killed my multimeter by doing this. <S> I was testing my multi meter on an 115v outlet and it tripped the circuit beaker. <S> the display still works but no measurement works (not even conductivity mode). <S> edit: I had it on 600v DC
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With a digital meter that auto-senses polarity, you will get a negative accurate reading if you have a DC setting and measure DC with the polarity reversed.
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Are adapters unsafe? Plug G to plug F (UK to Sweden) I'm thinking of buying an instant pot ( https://www.instantpot.co.uk/product/instant-pot-duo-8-litre-electric-pressure-cooker-220v/ ). It's a UK version and I live in Sweden. The voltage and frequency seems to be the same (around 220-230V and 50Hz). I know I need to buy an adapter to make it fit in the socket. My question: is it dangerous to use adapters like this (not to convert the voltage or anything), simply to make it fit. <Q> I'm thinking of buying an instant pot <S> The good news is that the specifications for that instant pot say it comes with both UK and Schuko power cables. <S> So you shouldn't need to adapt anything. <S> Are adapters unsafe? <S> There are a few issues with adaptors. <S> There are a lot of really shoddy adapters out there. <S> Many adaptors do not provide an earth connection. <S> Many adapters try to generalise supporting multiple plug and/or socket types, but at the expense of a looser fit and/or a smaller contact area. <S> The extra weight and leverage puts more stress on the socket. <S> If it's a well-made adaptor that has correctly sized ( <S> 4.8mm not 4mm) <S> pins, the correct Schuko retention features, an intact earth path, a sufficient current rating and a socket designed specifically to take a BS1363 plug <S> then it's probably safe enough but still for long-term use <S> I would always favour changing the plug or cord over using an adapter. <S> Also be aware that Schuko plugs are unpolarised, so live and neutral may end up swapped. <S> For modern equipment built to IEC standards this shouldn't be an issue but for vintage equipment or home-built stuff it may be. <A> In UK they use socket G and Sweden is socket F <S> the voltage is compatible with Sweden's power grid so if you have a friend that is an electrician they should be able to replace that socket with an F plug. <S> I don't recommend doing that unless you know how to do it. <S> Hooking a plug wrong would kill you. <S> https://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plugs-and-sockets/ <S> And of course you could get an adapter but an instant pot amp draw <S> might be to much for the adapter. <S> You need to verify how many amps the adapter can handle. <S> Thanks <A> An adaptor will be fine. <S> The pot is 1200W, so it will draw about 4 to 5 amps in normal operation. <S> (Obviously don't do that if you don't know how, but it's really straightforward - ask if you need instructions.) <S> There is one other point: The pot you link to says that it comes with both UK and Schuko plugs. <S> "Schuko" is a another term for a Type-F plug - so there may be nothing to do at all.
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Many adapters have a lower current rating than the sockets they adapt between. If you have no plans to visit the UK, I would cut the plug off and fit a Swedish plug.
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How to protect the AC from power spikes - a hardwired surge protector, or UPS? As I understand, power surges can damage the AC boards, compressors and fan motors. Looking into hardwired surge protectors I found devices ranging in current, maximum protecting voltage and protection modes, whose prices also range from $20 to $800. At the same time a 220V computer UPS cost is in the range of $100-400. What should be considered when choosing a protection method for a 220V AC running off of a 30A breaker? <Q> They are intended for different purposes: Surge protectors are mostly designed to protect against lightning strikes, although more expensive models may include some kind of power conditioning (protecting against smaller surges). <S> A UPS, (Uninterruptible Power Supply), on the other hand, is designed to provide some amount of power to a computer during a power outage, helping to prevent data loss, etc. <S> These also usually include a surge protector and power conditioning, of various qualities. <S> Motors, compressors, etc. <S> generally draw a large amount of power on startup, unlike computers, which may cause problems. <S> You probably also do not need your devices to keep running for a short amount of time during a power outage (if you do, a UPS would be the way to go). <S> Whatever you do choose, make sure that it is rated for the power and voltage being used, and that it is intended to be used in that manner. <S> As ThreePhaseEel stated above (beat me to it, it seems), a hardwired surge suppressor is probably your best bet. <A> You'd need several units of rackmount UPS in order to run an A/C off of it successfully, and the inverter on that thing is likely not going to be rated for motor starting duty <S> anyway , so I'd just use a hardwired surge suppressor and be done with it. <A> I put in the commonly recommended Eaton whole house surge protector. <S> EatonCHSPTULTRA which I got from HomeDepot. <S> It is connected through a 50-A double pole circuit breaker. <S> It attaches to the side of my exposed panel in an unfinished exposed stud wall in the garage. <S> If the panel is in a finished wall, I think there is a box specially designed to receive it. <S> Some new Eaton Cutler Hammer load centers have a knock-out in the dead front to receive this surge protector.
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You'll need a hardwired suppressor
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How can I bypass this switch? I know this might be a really stupid question, but how would I connect these wires if I wanted to bypass the switch? <Q> The black wires are already connected together. <S> Connect in the red wire to this also, and the switch will be bypassed. <S> Remember you must put a junction box cover over the hole, you cannot bury it in plaster or otherwise make the cover inaccessible. <A> From the little schematic on the switch, it seems that you have two inputs per side <S> so the 2 black wires should have the same purpose (from your photo <S> i think one of them is grounded and the other "brings" ground to something else, so maybe you have to short them). <S> Do this only if you are sure of where are this wires coming from. <A> Based on nothing but the photo, tie all three wires together with a wire nut. <S> It looks like 34 is the mains LINE looping through, and the red wire is the switched output going somewhere else. <S> Be careful - if this really is mains wiring, a mistake will make something go boom.
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Given this you can just short the red wire with the black and the switch will be bypassed.
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remove plastic film off porcelain tile I just had "marble like" porcelain tile installed. the plastic film over each tile is too had to get off. The installer gave up and left it on, said he never seen plastic film so hard to come off. So far tried a glass scrapper, hot rag, and just manually picking it off by hand... it comes off but too time consuming. What are some other efficient AND safe methods of removing it?thank you <Q> You could try gently warming up the plastic film with a hair dryer. <S> Sometimes the adhesive attraction between the plastic and the smooth surface of the tile will begin to let go as heat is applied making it easier to peel. <S> Use care not to get it so hot that you melt the plastic film. <A> Hot water is definitely the solution. <S> Tedious but very effective. <A> I just did this and tried some of the solutions above. <S> The only thing that ended up working was rubbing alcohol. <S> Soak the plastic as much as you can with a soaked rag. <S> Then pull slowly. <S> Some areas go faster than others - usually the dryer areas (hence the alcohol). <S> It goes faster if you 1) go slow enough to keep the plastic from tearing, and 2) keep broad tension on the plastic with all fingers or the side of your hand. <S> This also keeps the plastic from peeling. <S> It is tedious <S> but there is no other way that worked for me. <S> Now I just need to find a way to remove the residue left behind!
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Immerse tiles in fairly hot water and it will peel off quite easily.
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Proper fasteners for Post/Beam/Joist intersection So I am building a deck, and I have a point where a post, the deck beam, and a joist all meet together as shown in the (crude) drawing attached. What would be the appropriate fasteners to use in this case? I can notch the post if needed. To clarify, I plan on fastening the joist to the beam using a just hanger, but I'm not sure how to secure the beam to the post since the joist hanger would be in the way of most fasteners used to connect the beam to the post. Thanks <Q> I agree with @JimStewart , notching can be dangerous. <S> Go to your local lumberyard and order a Simpson Strong-Tie column cap similar to this one: https://www.strongtie.com/boltedcolumncaps_columncaps/eccl-ccc-cct_productgroup_wcc/p/eccl.ccc.cct <S> You can order them for 3-2x10 built-up beams on 6x6 posts with 2-2x8 beams joining the 3-2x10 beam. <S> Also, you can order a corner connector. <A> Notch the post to accommodate the built up 2x10 beam, leaving the inside face of the built up beam flush with the inside face of the post. <S> Use four 1/2” carriage bolts in a square pattern through the post and beam. <S> Alternately, if possible, notch the post to accommodate only two of the three 2x10’s of the beam, interrupting the length of the third, leaving more meat on the post to bolt through. <A> You should run this by your local inspector, but no heavy duty hardware is required here. <S> All the joists that tie into the beam keep the beam from rotating in any significant way. <S> The only thing you need to do is keep the post from getting inadvertently knocked out from under the beam by impacts. <S> Drill pilot holes as needed to avoid splitting the beam.
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Something as simple as large nails or lag bolts toenailed through the beam into the post are likely adequate.
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How do I tell if a window I have is tempered glass? (I need to cut a hole) I have a full size double-pane all-glass patio door that I'd like to put a hole in for an air conditioner exhaust hose. I plan to drill a hole with a glass drill bit and then use a carbide rod saw to saw out the 5" diameter hole. I realize this will be a pain in the butt but there are no other places in the apartment I can cut the hole. How likely is this door (or one like it) to be made of tempered glass? It looks to be at least 10 years old. Not sure how common tempered glass is in these kinds of applications. The apartment isn't really well-built. The glass is SGG Climalit. I can't find one shred of contact info on their web site to ask them, though it looks like they do offer tempered glass options. This is in Spain. https://www.climalit.es/ <Q> Since you clearly are not interested in advise on how to accomplish your task and you only want to know if your glass door is tempered or not AND since we can not answer this question for you <S> then here is a test you can perform. <S> Step 1 <S> , - Cut a hole in the glass of your door. <S> Step 2 , - After the glass breaks, look at the size of the pieces. <S> If it shatters into a million little pieces it is tempered. <S> You can avoid steps 1 and 2 if you like and proceed directly to step 3 but this will result in you not knowing if your glass is tempered or not Step 3 , - Buy a new door with a half-length window and cut a hole in the non window section. <S> (This test is for entertainment proposes only, mostly mine although I am sure those who have been tersely rebuked by you for offering advice will probably get a kick out it . <S> IF you do perform this test then I am not responsible for you breaking your glass, cutting yourself or feeling embarrassed for not taking advice offered.) <A> I would say it is 100% tempered glass if built to code, both the glass in the door and any next to the door are required to be tempered (I don't remember the distance from the door before non tempered is ok) . <S> Added some code references:found a reference from the international building code, 2015 date, 2406.4.1 and 2406.4.2 swinging, sliding and bifold doors require safety glass, if I read it right glass within 24" of a door. <S> Tried to copy and paste but could not do it on my phone , earlier in the article it did specify the type of marking and things like wire embedded , <S> plastic layers like windshields or tempered are all acceptable. <A> Get a pair of polarized sunglasses and look at the window (as well as a car rear window for reference) <S> The strain pattern resulting from tempering can be observed with polarized light or by using a pair of polarizing sun glasses. <S> If it is tempered, you will see a pattern like this:
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If it breaks into larger jagged pieces and shards it is not tempered.
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Installing a sub panel to a GE split bus panel I want to install a sub panel to my GE split bus panel. The diagram indicates that I could replace the two full sized 2-pole breakers (2 inch wide each) on the upper left with three compact 2-pole breakers (1 inch wide each). The diagram indicates that this is not an option on the top right. I would use 30 A and two 40 A compact 2-pole breakers for the dryer, a/c condensing unit, and the range. I would use the existing 50 A breaker on the top right for the sub panel, unless I should go larger. EDIT On the right from top the 120 V branch circuits are: 15 A -- bdrm 2,3,4 E. wall receptacles, 2 closets single bulbs, 20 A (switched off) for dishwasher but not installed, 20 A garage receptacle, lights, door opener, 20 A ceiling fans, lights, 20 A GFCI kitchen counter, 20 A clothes washer, 20 A refrigerator and 1 kitchen receptacle not near sink <Q> No one has posted an answer for this question, so I thought I would take a stab at it and remember some of it is more about code intent rather than written law. <S> First, you have a split bus panel. <S> This panel was developed because of a loophole in the early code that stated you could have 6 means of disconnect to disconnect totally from a service (the 6 disconnect rule). <S> So manufacturers decided that instead of paying for an expensive(?) main breaker, they would instead create a panel with six means of disconnects, diversifying the load and using lower priced smaller breaker for disconnecting purposes. <S> Like I said it was a loophole, which was caught by the NEC and then immediately corrected. <S> That is why there is a very small time line where these panels were used, because they are now illegal. <S> Now that you have a brief history <S> let's get to your question. <S> You panel was installed when it was legal to do so, and it can stay that way under the grandfather clause. <S> Since it was a generic panel, the installer could have used all of its capacity (6 disconnects) but didn't. <S> You now want to upgrade your panel to its full capacity by adding breakers. <S> Now here is where the intent of the code affects the answer. <S> When you modify a panel you must bring it up to the updated code and if you can't do that with the existing panel, you should replace it. <S> In other words the panel was installed during a time where it was legal to do so, but you can't "grandfather" in an upgrade. <S> Now I know this could be a big discussion and a lot of it <S> depends on each persons interpretation of the NEC. <S> I will say it really doesn't matter what any ones opinion is, including mine. <S> The only one who's opinion and interpretation counts is the AHJ. <S> That is what they are there for, and that is what they do. <S> Most people hesitate to go the the AHJ because they fear they will rule without considering cost or other installation problems, and they will probably want to inspect the work after it is done. <S> Then again that'is what they are paid to do. <S> Hope this helps and good luck. <A> While you technically could do what you describe While what you describe is possible with suitable THQP2xx breakers and a couple of half-width filler plates... <S> this panel's just a pain in the rump and probably should be replaced split-bus panels are a pain in the rump, as they can't be brought up to modern standards. <S> Yours likely does not support the THQLRK or TQDLRK required for conversion to a backfed main breaker configuration (I finally spoke with a human being at GEIS/ABB about this, and they couldn't say definitively, but were skeptical of the panel accepting a backfed main retainer), and you are two slots short of the space required to wrangle a TQDL21150 into your panel without bumping a circuit off to the subpanel, even with tapping the feeder to the sub off using the main lugs of the panel. <S> Replacing it with a modern panel would be the best move should you desire more from your electrical service -- make sure you don't short yourself on breaker spaces ever again, though! <S> (A 54 or 60 space panel is by no means out of place here.) <A> The 2017 NEC is silent on this application.
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The Code does not address using a split bus load center to feed another panel board. When you remove and add breakers to this panel, you are modifying a panel.
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Is it safe to use a battery charger to test the capacity of a non-rechargeable battery? I have this battery charger at home. It has a voltage test function. I also have a lot of non-rechargeable batteries lying around. Is it possible and safe to use the charger's test function on non-rechargeable AAA or AA batteries? <Q> That charger device clearly states that it is for NiCd and NiMH rechargeable batteries only. <S> It would be a risky proposition to put other batteries in that unit whether they be lithium or alkaline types. <S> I think it would be just too easy to put the unit into the wrong mode. <S> These days you can pickup a suitable device that would fulfill your needs for a surprising low cost. <S> Check out offerings on Amazon for example. <S> The good thing about this approach is that you will find other uses for a digital multimeter once you have it and learn how to use it. <A> I have a suspiciously similar LaCrosse charger that I have used for testing alkaline batteries. <S> My charger spends a few seconds detecting and displaying the voltage before it begins charging, so if you're a bit quick, yes, you can use it to test voltage. <A> No. <S> It is made for NiCd and NiMH batteries only, which happen to work at the same voltage. <S> The charge indicator will be useless for any other type of battery, which by nature operate on different voltage. <S> Buy a real DVM, measure the actual voltage, and google up a table that shows voltage vs. state of charge for that battery type.
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What you want to do instead is get yourself a digital multimeter that can measure voltage of any battery that you may have laying around.
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How can I mount a railing in concrete steps when I encounter rebar in the hole? I need to install a handrail in concrete steps. The problem is that after drilling ~2" (5 cm) down into the concrete, the drill bit wouldn't go any further. I suspect I'm hitting rebar. This is about 2 & 1/2" (64 mm) from the edge of the steps. The instructions for the handrail say I must drill 3 & 1/2 inches (89 mm) down for a secure hold. Then I attach a 1/2" inch (13 mm) threaded rod and secure it to the concrete with construction adhesive. Would it be okay for both posts if I made a small mold, filled it with concrete, measured accurately, and drilled down through that? Or I could buy a rebar-cutting drill bit. But I have concrete at home already.Thanks for any suggestions in advance. I won't be tackling the problem for at least another week, since my neuropathy makes it hard to deal with the heat (I don't sweat). <Q> New bit and a hammer drill will get you through it. <S> Spent my 1st summer between college installing iron railing and that's the way we did it for railing that had tabs on the bottom and <S> there was nothing we couldn't get through. <S> If you hit rebar tip the drill at an angle and go on the side of the rebar. <S> For non tab installs <S> we core drilled and used hydraulic cement. <A> This often happens in commercial construction where rebar is often. <S> Once through the rebar the tip will probably get thrashed and trash unless you know how to re-edge a bit. <S> But very often it's just a hard piece of stone. <S> Heat is hard on carbide hammer drill bits. <S> I own a few hammer drills. <S> The hammer drill setting on a person's cordless drill isn't the same as a dedicated hammer drill. <S> They 'hammer'or chisel as much as they drill. <S> The spiral part is more to remove material. <S> The carbide is there for the tip to bust up the material. <S> Don't force it. <S> Work the trigger for speed and keep the hole clean. <S> Is it possible to change the hole's location by drilling a new hole or 2 in the base of the railing? <A> Sounds like you're trying to use a regular drill and/or bit. <S> You will need a hammer drill to properly install concrete anchors. <S> A hammer drill moves not only round and round but up and down at the same time. <S> I prefer SDS-type head attachments. <S> Also, the quality of the anchor varies from brand to brand. <S> There are a few varieties of concrete anchors (such as standard threaded and sleeved) that are available (My daily use favorite brand is Red Head). <S> For small anchoring jobs (not a handrail!) <S> there's even screw type ones (they are blue). <S> Where safety is concerned, don't try and cheap out and definitely a good thing you came here to ask for help.
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Rebar is a fairly soft steel, so a common drill bit (not carbide tipped) should be able to drill through it.
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Bath and sink connected on same pipe - bath gurgling when sink emptied The bath and sink are connected to the same pipe as shown on schematic below - pipe has a gradient downwards towards the main pipe (yes, I have found some people fit it with an upward gradient!). When I empty a bucket into the sink or empty a full sink, the bath starts gurgling or burping, sending water through the waste outlet into the bath. Note there are no blockages anywhere in the system. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this without connecting all bath components directly to the main pipe? Can multiple bathroom sinks, baths, showers etc. share a common drain pipe and if so, are there any rules? UPDATED SCHEMATIC after posting to show toilet - this works fine and does not cause any problems to the sink or bath when flushing. <Q> 1:Can multiple bathroom sinks, baths, showers ect share a common drain pipe ? <S> Yes they can and do all the time. <S> If so are there any rules? <S> of course there are <S> the International Plumbers Code being one of them - and depending on what other rules your locality has adopted. <S> Now on to your issue : Did this problem just start (on previously working system)? <S> Is any of it new construction ? <S> Potential Causes: <S> Your drain from sink to drainage pipe is partially blocked! <S> Your vent is is either blocked or partially blocked! <S> Solutions: <S> Run a plumbing snake down the pipe towards the sewage drain. <A> T Piece Is the bath trap "gurgling" because of bubbles coming out of the trap, or because of air being sucked into the trap? <S> This is important, because I suspect the T Piece could be the issue. <S> Since it's not a gentle bend pointing toward the waste pipe, when the water hits the T, it could go upstream , compressing the air up to the trap, and bubbling out. <S> Alternatively, if the force of the water is sucking the air from upstream, the trap will lose water and air will get sucked in from the bath. <S> See this page about vertical waste drops . <S> It says a Sanitary Tee is incorrect for vertical downpipes: <S> When connecting any vertical waste drop to a horizontal run the proper way to do it is to either use a Wye & 1/8 bend (45 deg), or a Sanitary combo. <S> A sanitary combo is a combination Wye & 1/8 <S> bend already made in one fitting. <A> If your diagram is correct, the problem may be that you don't have a vent for the sink at all. <S> There should be a loop that goes up from the sink, then tees into the vent pipe. <S> Vents allow air to follow the waste water; otherwise, the water flowing down the drain creates a vacuum, pulling the water from the trap along with it. <S> In your case, water starts flowing down the pipe in the sink. <S> As it falls, it 'pushes' air out in front of it, up the vent pipe. <S> Once all the water has drained, it sucks air through the sink's trap - you probably don't notice the gurgling from that, since it's following the already gurgling water. <S> Once the 'end' of the water hits the tee, it applies suction to both the sink trap and the tub trap; whichever is shallower will gurgle (in this case, your tub). <S> The toilet doesn't cause problems, because one it acts as its own vent, and two it has the stack vent to draw from. <S> If water down the sink is causing the tub to gurgle, it's likely that water down the tub will cause the sink to gurgle. <S> Dump water into the tub, and as soon as it drains, plug the tub. <S> If there is no vent, you will hear the sink gurgle as it equalizes the pressure by letting air through. <S> The easy fix is to get an under-sink vent; I haven't used them, nor do I know if your building code would allow it, but as long as it's legal, it would be the fastest and simplest option: you won't have to open the walls! <A> The behavior you described might mean your sewer line is be clogged, roots and flushing large items can cause this... <S> If draino doesn't fix it, might be time to call a professional, they're not too bad on cost, just don't get any of the extra services lol. <A> Have a similar problem with poor plumbing in the bath. <S> When pipes are clean, things are fine, but when they become partially clogged, then water starts flowing out to the bath floor when washer machine drains water. <S> The only solution for me has been steel plumbing snake. <S> You need two people and it should be easy unless you have too many turns in the system. <S> I do have but it has been tolerable so far. <S> No amount of pipe cleaning chemicals was able to help so I tend to spare the money and avoid destroying environment by using them.
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The difficult fix is to open your wall and install a vent for the sink - and maybe for the tub too, depending on distance.
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How to remove concrete slab I have this concrete slab at the front of my house which I want to remove. The slab has 2 air brick holes in it too. These are surrounded by bricks with cement on to give a rounded look and then painted. They are obviously like that because the surface of that slab is higher than the air bricks on the side of the house. I guess I have 2 options remove the slab and keep the airbrick hole / protectors in place, or remove the slab and the airbrick holes and lower the level of the earth underneath the slab so that it does not enter the airbricks. How do I remove the slab? Sledgehammer? Anything I should be aware of before I do so? Any other options apart from 1 or 2? <Q> Use hammer drill instead. <S> These drills usually have three or four modes of operation: <S> Drill Like normal drill, usually with higher torque Hammer drill. <S> Drill with additional hammering for drilling through concrete, stone etc. <S> Fixed hammer. <S> The head is locked in rotation and the tool is just ramming. <S> Free hammer. <S> same as 3 but the head rotates freely. <S> Option 3. <S> is for you. <S> Works like sledgehammer <S> but it is much faster and much easier to do the job. <S> You can lend it at some DIY stores for a good money. <A> Rent an electric jackhammer. <S> You'll thank me. <A> That slab looks really thin the way it has chipped at the edge. <S> I few good hits with a sledgehammer will probably take it out with a few hits. <S> If the concrete is sticking to the air bricks you may need to drill some holes to keep from breaking the bricks, I use an air chizzle to remove mortar from bricks <S> this works well <S> if you have an air compressor, an inexpensive air chizzle can be found for ~30 <S> $ with flat,round point and cutting bits. <S> What to be aware of , flying rock chips, wear safety glasses and use heavy gloves the pieces can be very sharp.
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Sledgehammer will work, but it is way too hard work.
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Where to start laying hardwood floor in "T" shaped room I'm getting ready to put down hardwood in a newly constructed room. The room is "T" shaped as such: I understand that I should start on the longest continuous wall and work across. However, in this case, if I start on "A" for example, and then fill-in between D and A, it seems likely I'll end up with a partial piece in the middle of the floor. Should I start at D instead, and have the possibility of a partial piece all the way down the A wall? Is there some other way that I should approach this? Thank you for your help. Edit: Some additional info: The room is about 22' the long dimension and 14' on the short. Planks are 3" wide. D is the top of a stairwell, and C is a closet. <Q> Say you start with your piece running parallel to A. <S> You take it from the bottom left corner all the way up to the F wall. <S> Solid piece, all the way up. <S> Now you backfill to the left of the piece, working towards D. <S> When you reach D, you will probably need to do a rip cut for the last piece to go in D. <S> You'll cross the room from A to B also putting in full pieces until you hit B at which point you'll probably need to do some kind of rip there as well. <S> Here's the only really tricky bit - where B meets the wall that links to C <S> you'll have to do a partial rip cut. <S> Your rip should let you fit the piece in at B but where the space to C is, you want the full piece. <A> Measure the width of the flooring you are going to use and try to start <S> so there is a half width board or more on either side. <S> This is easy to do. <S> The starting board will either be directly in the middle or the edge of the board will be directly in the middle. <S> You can lay the boards out if it is too difficult to calculate it. <S> Sorry cuts are the name of the game in flooring but it is better to have a two equal+/- half width cuts than two skinny cut because the skinny cut will magnify any errors or irregularities in the walls. <A> Here's an option, that will only work with real tongue and groove. <S> (That is, that you can T two pieces and have the t&g match) <S> I'd lay out a few pieces and see if it will work for you or not, but it's probably the easiest install. <S> At D, I've got one piece which is the stair nose (assuming we're at the top of the stairs.) <S> If it's the bottom, then don't worry so much. <S> You can simply rip the end piece and proceed according to The Evil Greebo's answer <A> Snap a line from E - F and start in the middle. <S> Take the width of half a board and move the center line off center that much. <S> Use a starter block and work toward either A wall or B wall. <S> Put the grooves back to back in the center and use a spline. <S> With some measurement you should be able to <A> I would run them off wall F. <S> There's no rule that says you need to run them along the longest wall. <S> Visually, vertical lines will make the room look longer but narrower. <S> And horizontal Lions will make the room look wider but shorter. <S> If you prefer the room to look wider in respect to the orientation of the picture posted run them like this. <S> Measure off this line to wall F and rip your first cut to have a seamless finish throughout the entire floor. <S> This method will make for a grander entrance from the stairwell, if that's what your looking for.
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When laying wood floors or tile you always start in the middle of the room and lay out to the edges. The other advantage is that starting from the middle effectively cuts the error from the creep or gaps in the boards in half giving to a much better looking job. You can do do measurements from each wall A and B to find the center.
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Ganged Circuit Breaker has strange ganging configuration. 40-[30-30]-40 I have a scenario where the Circuit Breakers for a Dryer and a Range are intertwined in the CB panel. In the picture below 17 and 20 are ganged together with that wild ganging clip. 18 and 19 both 30amps are ganged together normally. Is this kind of ganging of breakers with in code ? Why would anyone do this ? Why wouldn't they just connect this normally 17 & 18 and then 19 & 20? EDIT 7-11-2018 Based on write ups and comments etc.. I felt it better to edit my post rather than to go through each write-up/comment. Please don't read anything into the numbering of spaces, I was told the previous homeowner did that numbering. 17 & 20 Range........40 Amp Range. 18 & 19 Dryer..........30 Amp Dryer. 1 & 2, 3 & 4.............60 Amp Heater. 5 & 6, 7 & 8.............30 Amp Air Conditioner. 21 & 22, 23 & 24.....30 Amp Water Heater. I know each pole is 120V circuit. I know that you gang them in a 240V circuit (L1,L2) - in a residence in USA you don't normally get 220V Single Phase (HI-Leg or Stinger Leg - of course they all sting if you ask me). So each pole Odd/Even slot - A & B Phase if you will (L1, L2). Normally Odd (1, 3, 5 etc) is L1 and Even (2,4,6 etc) is L2 (of course I don't think code states which is L1 and which is L2). That way when you place a 240V breaker in; it takes up the Odd Slot {120V - L1} and the Even Slot {120V - L2} for 240V. This might be panel dependent but that is the jist of getting 240V from L1 and L2. As for the breaker in question I do believe it is a Quad as some have linked to. Which basically sounds like 2 Double Stuffs in one unit , in order to fit the number of breakers that are needed. Seems to me the Builder did not size the panel correctly and just Stuffed away. <Q> You wouldn't get anything good out of the other configuration, as the two upper half-poles connect to the same bus stab <S> (i.e. are on the same leg), and likewise with the two lower half-poles. <S> The crazy-looking handle-tie <S> (what you call a "ganging clip") <S> is manufacturer-supplied, and normal for this type of quadplex breaker <S> -- it allows the handles to be operated together when you operate them by hand. <S> Common trip is handled by an internal mechanism, however. <S> As to why someone would do this? <S> They simply ran out of panel space -- this is also evidenced by the large quantity of double-stuff breakers in the panel. <S> It's OK by Code as long as the panel is labeled and listed to accept double-stuff breakers in those two slots <S> -- check your panel labeling for details. <A> Because you haven't numberd braker spaces - you've numbered half spaces. <S> Each space only has one pole, so a breaker that only takes one space ( <S> i.e. 17-18) can only access 120V. <S> Your 240V breakers need two poles. <S> See this discussion of how poles work. <S> That is actually a 16 space breaker panel. <S> That is far too small for a modern home. <S> They lean very heavily on the double-stuff breaker "crutch" but that is not allowed anymore: most circuits today require AFCI and/or GFCI and/or whatever they come up with next. <S> Far and away the easiest and least awkward way to do that is xFCI+breaker combo devices, and none of those will fit in a half space. <S> They can't be double-stuffed. <S> A better panel size choice is 30-space, but even there you'd already be out of spaces on day one... <S> This is why we recommend a 40+ space panel. <A> To go right to your point, in simplified language and using your numbering system, #17 and #18 are on the same leg (0 V difference); same with #19 and #20. <S> To get a pair of 2-pole 240 V circuits this type of breaker pairs #17 and #20 for the 40 A circuit and #18 and #19 for the 30 A circuit. <S> The visible physical links between #17 and #20 and between #18 and #19 insure that if you manually switch the breaker both breakers will be switched. <S> These are 2-pole breakers powering a single 240 V circuit and you want either both on or both off. <S> In addition, according to @Tyson (comment) each pair of this model of linked breakers is "common trip", meaning there is an electrical connection inside which causes the other breaker of the pair to trip even if the over-current in only in one of the pair. <S> There are breaker pairs which have a physical link that are not common trip. <S> These are used for a different purpose than powering a single 240 V circuit. <S> EDIT <S> I was under the impression <S> this was a split bus panel, but not so.
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This is a bit backwards, but OK as long as the breakers have a common trip mechanism inside them Normally, you'd see this configuration as a 30-40-40-30, but either way, this is a quadplex breaker, where the outside half-poles are ganged together to form 1 240V circuit while the inside half-poles are ganged together to form the other 240V circuit. (This is why putting in a panel that barely fits is penny-wise and pound-foolish, especially for the main panel in a building.) (This could happen if only one leg was shorted to neutral or to gnd.)
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Covering a 30-in x 7ft space that's suited for a door? We have a bedroom with 30-inch x 7-ft opening that takes me to a bathroom and a closet. This opening is ideal for a door, but it's solid concrete and very difficult to drill. So I was thinking of putting something that would cover this hole, but is easy to install. I was thinking of an accordion door or something very simple, but I don't know if these exist for this type of application. I prefer not having to drill a frame into the concrete. This connects to a bathroom, so there's no need for something as sophisticated as a door. The only reason I wanted to cover it is because the bedroom has an A/C so the air escapes to the bathroom and closet, and it becomes very inefficient. Any suggestions are appreciated. <Q> <A> Almost any type of door is going to need to be securely mounted, and therefore don't solve your initial problem. <S> I'd argue that mounting a door wouldn't be that difficult, but.... <S> A weighted curtain on an expansion pole might do. <S> Most aren't 7 feet high, but you could probably find or make something fairly easily. <A> Consider an expandable shower curtain rod to hold a cloth or leather shower curtain or home-made curtain w/loops. <S> Worked great for me in an old APT <S> I couldn't mod...
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You could mount curtain hardware on the ceiling and use a curtain to close off the opening. It's very cheap, has virtually no installation, lets you pick a wide variety of fabrics from fine to cheap, and doesn't look out of place.
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Was it allowed to not ground light switches? I apologize if this has been answered before but I couldn't readily find this question here. My house was built in the late '80s and all of the light switches have grounding terminals but they are not used. There are regular 14/2 or 12/2 with grounds going in to the electrical boxes but the grounds are just tied off to each other (unless an outlet is present - that atleast is grounded). The boxes themselves are plastic. Was this ever allowed? Or did the electrician get lazy? <Q> Proper practice is and was to add a ground pigtail to the fixture (the light switch). <S> On the last outlet in a chain, it's OK to connect ground directly to the light switch. <A> In those days it was not required per se, and since I have worked on my home and saw the same as you had observed I had to look and see to my amazement as late as 2010. <S> In reality they should be connected - if there is a screw ; were the originals with no screw replaced at one time or another? <S> - if it had a screw from what I understand it should have been connected. <S> See this article: <S> What year did the NEC (US) require all new construction switches and outlets to have ground screws? <S> The main quote is this: <S> The tricky part was, when did switches start "requiring" a grounding screw? <S> That changed only when UL started requiring ground screws on switches, some time around 2010. <S> When there was no ground screw, there was no "required" grounding. <A> Both Bryce and Ken are correct so +1 to both of you. <S> I just thought I would add a little more explanation to their answers. <S> First all fixtures and all metal parts must be grounded if installed after 1965. <S> So if they are not you need to ground it. <S> Originally the common belief was that it could be grounded by any method. <S> But there was always a question as to whether during a fault the over-current would make it back to the panel and trip the breaker. <S> So overtime, everyone in the industry starts to talk about intrinsically safe or assured grounding . <S> That's when the industry began to modify their opinion and began redefining codes and manufacturers started attaching the tails or stingers to all of the equipment and material being installed. <S> This included the mounting bracket, the fixture itself, and maybe even the lamp sockets. <S> To conclude, when you open up a fixture you need to determine, if the fixture grounded and safe? <S> Then, what do I need to do to assure the ground is complete? <S> As someone who once was a contractor and doesn't like lawsuits (trust me no money in it) I had policy to ground the crap out of everything. <S> Hope this helps to put a light on the subject so to speak.
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Meaning you could ground it once at any location as well as use a mounting screw or any metal piece attached to the fixture, much the same way we used to use conduit as the grounding return, and it actually does ground the fixture.
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Does this look like asbestos insulation? Found some spare bits of it in the attic, was curious what it is. Fibre glass? <Q> No, that is fiberglass. <S> Asbestos was never used in a batt form of insulation which is what your picture is of. <S> https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-identify-dangerous-asbestos-insulation-4119906 <A> Asbestos did come in a board configuration for use in furnaces and combustion chambers. <S> But that is not asbestos. <S> It is probably Kaowool or a similar product <A> The two have pretty similar properties, but mineral wool is generally slightly more irritating to handle ... <S> I'll handle fibreglass without gloves if I have to, but I won't go near mineral wool without good protective equipment because I'll be itching for days if I do. <A> Either fiberglass or rockwool. <S> Take a small piece outside and apply flame to it. <S> Fiberglass will melt, rockwood won't. <A> Dang, that's tough. <S> I want to say it's mineral wool <S> but the sides are more puffed out than they should be from the factory, but that happens as soon as it rubs against something. <S> 99.99% sure it's mineral wool. <S> I've worked with that stuff for two house builds. <S> The part that tells me <S> it's <S> mineral wool is the stamp pattern on the face (left side in photo). <S> That's the same stamp that is used once it's super heated (* not actual term) and compressed into a batt. <S> It's excellent (and itchy) stuff. <S> I don't care who you are, it's not "fun" to work with as they market it. <S> Cut into it, and try installing it in the house without a mask. <S> Guaranteed problems that evening <S> and you will hack up black crap. <S> It's very good stuff, just wear proper gear. <S> I learned the first time around and invested in a suit and proper mask.
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When it comes to asbestos insulation, it is found only in loose fill types, and in a solid board configuration. The typically greenish colour and the smaller gaps between the fibres suggest to me that it's mineral wool (aka "rockwool", although that's technically a brand name) rather than fibreglass.
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CO detector starts beeping every morning at 6am My 2-years old CO detector (small, wall-mounted device with battery, no other power source) started beeping every morning for at least few minutes, sending sharp chirps once every 10 sec. It starts around 6am. I don't see any visible fire or cooking in my apartment or outside. I've read that it might mean end of battery/detector life, temperature change, or poltergeist. Are these the most common reasons? I will replace battery to check for some of it. UPDATE: Changed battery, chirping went away <Q> If your CO detector were actually detecting CO, it would not chirp. <S> It would sound a continuous, and very, VERY loud alarm you would definitely recognize. <S> This is true for CO and smoke detectors. <A> The chemical reaction that produces the electrical current is reduced by low temperatures. <S> It's a common occurrence in cold climates, especially in the case of vacation homes that are kept at lower temperatures when not in use. <S> Do it now and see what happens. <A> Detector end of life is probably the second most common cause. <S> How old is the CO detector? <S> Their lifetime is somewhere in the range of 5-10 years, depending on the make/model ( source source source ), so if it that old or older, it's best to replace the whole thing. <A> Volunteer firefighter here who has seen many a CO detector malfunction.. <S> I think the answers here are spot on <S> but I'll just add on: <S> Some CO detectors, when set off, sounds like a BEEP-BEEP-BEEP <S> then a pause and <S> it continues with the series of beeps, etc. <S> They're loud but not as loud as a commercial fire alarm in say a school or public building is. <S> Most detectors go off at the early stages of CO being a problem (10-15ppm). <S> As firefighters we have to put on our SCBA (masks) at 70ppm (this varies by department) <S> Definitely check the back of your detector and look for the date of manufacture. <S> If it was manufactured 4-5 years ago it may be time to get a new one. <S> CO detectors don't last forever so replace it if it's old. <S> And of course, make sure you replace the batteries, or at least check them, every 6 months or so. <S> The cold causing he low power alert to go off is plausible but if it continues you may have to replace it (see above!) <S> Make sure you still check those as well! <S> Of course, if it ever does go off, do not hesitate to call 911. <S> The fire department has the tools to check your home if it is hazardous to your health. <S> A CO alarm is definitely no laughing matter and it should be taken seriously. <A> If the battery were failing, it would not chirp at the same time every day, it would chirp and continue chirping all day. <S> Having said that, if it's easy, and it should be, replace the battery. <S> If it still chirps - at the same time every day- you can rule out battery. <S> this is the first step. <S> The next step is to look outside at the neighbor's car.
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A low battery is the most common cause of seemingly-random chirps in smoke and CO detectors. Chances are the battery should've been replaced long ago. The chirping is a universal (as far as I know) method for indicating that it's time to change the battery. It's normal for gas and smoke detector batteries to indicate impending failure during the coolest part of the day. Some detectors plug right into the wall but have battery backups.
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What is a hacksaw called that has a single, straight handle? I'm in need of a hacksaw like the one on the left in the image link provided. Ideally i need it with six inch or more blade protruding to fit down a pipe. I have seen one in a store but now cant find another <Q> I believe shopping assistance is off topic for the site, however advise on tools is on topic. <S> I believe that there is two options that would work for you: <S> A hand holder for a reciprocating saw blade : <S> A hand holder for a hacksaw blade, often called a mini hacksaw : <A> I have a few one is called a mini super saw and the other is a "handle it <S> " I googled both and both companies don't show on the net but they are 30 ? <S> + old, you can't put much pressure or the blade will bend. <S> There are several length blades on the market. <S> And both of mine will take all sizes. <A> The picture you provided is actually from their website originally. <S> I knew it would be from Lowe's as Kobalt is a store brand. <S> Stanley Tools refer to it as a Multi Saw .
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According to Lowe's , it is a Cross Cutting Hand Saw.
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How to Sync Booster Fan with Furnace Fan I own an old house. Some of the rooms in the house that are too far away from the furnace are not getting enough air, the airflow is too weak. I tried to close as many of the other ones as possible, but the airflow is still too weak. I am going to be installing a booster fan. Not sure which one yet, because I have a rectangular duct. Once I install the fan I don't want it to be on all the time. I want to only turn it on when the furnace fan is working. My furnace fan is always in Auto mode. What's the best way to do this? It has been suggested to me to use a pressure sensor and put itin the duct somewhere near a furnace. This way, no need to wire into the furnace. Should I just find the pins that connect to theactual fan inside the furnace? Are there pins on the control board of my furnace that I can use for this purpose? I spent a few hours searching, but I can't find any actual solutions to my problem. Seems like such a common thing. <Q> Using a 24v/110v relay (installed in the booster fan's junction box) run 2-conductor T-stat wire back to your furnace. <S> hook 1 conductor to ground, and hook the other conductor to your T-stat's fan wire (usually green, but whatever wire is connected to the "G" terminal on your T-stat). <S> On the 110v side, break the black wire to the fan and connect leads to the relay. <S> That's it. <S> Alternatively, you can use a pressure switch, but they cost more and you'll have to run power (110v, 14/2) from the pressure switch (which should be located in the supply plenum just downstream of the cooling coils) to the booster fan. <A> 1down vote <S> I would not waste my time installing duct fans , or a booster fan, since most will not be worth your time spent installing them. <S> Without knowledge of the whole system we have no way to know just what needs to be done to fix your system. <S> You need to find a good HVAC contractor to show you what your needs are and stop with the time consuming ideas that have no real gain. <S> Everyone has critiqued most every comment or possible solution. <A> Find your Cubic Feet Per minute ( each room. <S> Width x height x length <S> then the width, height and length of the ducts and how many turns you have, plus how many Tons your AC Unit is and <S> the Output your unit handles ) and you'll find out where to put your booster fan. <S> You can easily hook the power wire up to a light switch and turn it on manually <S> or you can hook it up to your R wire on the thermostat, but makes sure its in series with the transformer and the fan relay <S> So youll want to make a separate short vent on the outside of your duct work that runs into it, so it still grabs the ambient air <S> but it also blows into your vents, you'll probably also want an automated trap door from your 2nd duct work for the booster, just in case you loose air when you don't want it on due to lighter weather or a bad motor <S> Booster fans should not be used it vents that produce heat from the furnace, that's another good reason to have it separate with an automated or manual trap door <S> Depending on how large your booster fan is you might want to add in a capacitor
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, booster fans shouldnt go in the duct work because of the condensation in the vents. If I were you, I would find out what you have installed including the size and capacity of the equipment, the capacity of the duct work, the location of the supply and return registers. Please try and find a "good and knowledgeable" company that can help solve your air delivery problems or at least tell you what you need to do to correct the problem.
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Help diagnose a compressor problem My fan on my A/C compressor unit seems to start and even spins up to a reasonable speed, although not quite the speed at which it ought to spin, but then 5 seconds later slows down to a very low speed where you can almost see the individual blades. The run capacitor was clearly blown (the top had mushroomed) so I replaced it. However, that did not solve the problem at all. In fact, the pattern I just described did not change at all. Should I replace the start capacitor as well? (I'm kind of doubting it since I would guess that a faulty start capacitor would prevent it from starting in the first place.) What else should I try before I call an expert? Here's the video of what's going on . <Q> Have you checked the actual voltages feeding the fan motor ? <S> You should use a volt meter , measure both at the contactor(both in & out sides) and the motor. <S> I would like to know L1 to Neutral , L2 to Neutral and L1 to L2 as there is a slight possibility your actual Circuit Breaker is "broken" on one leg where you might get a reduced connection and thus not enough current passing. <S> Have you cycled your Circuit Breaker <S> Off/ <S> On in your service panel ? <S> Your breaker may have partial tripped, only half the breaker tripped and so it has partial connection <S> (brown out voltage basically). <S> Also when you replaced the capacitor was it a dual fan/compressortype ? <S> Or Start/Run type ? <S> Please post your Model number <S> , I know it is a carrier - inside the panel there should also be a wiring diagram - post a good picture of that if you will. <A> Could also be rusty or poorly lubricated bearings. <S> Try spinning it by hand. <A> There can be several issues that can cause this issue. <S> The first thing I usually check in this case is the run/start capacitor(s) <S> some machine use 2 or a dual element cap. <S> If the cap is swollen 99% it is bad. <S> Since it spins up it probably is not the contactor but checking the voltage drop across line to load for l1 and l2 should be low at the most a few volts when pulled in. <S> Next an amp clamp it is possible <S> your compressor insulation is failing check the amp draw on the contactor. <S> If the amp draw is high the last check would be to use a megaohm meter on the compressor with power off l1 and l2 to ground is usually above 10meg at 500v some times as high as several hundred mega ohms at 500 up to 1000v. <S> The reason for the mega ohm meter or never test is to see if the Freon has gone acidic and eaten the varnish off the wires. <S> This happens when moisture gets in the system.
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What this looks like is that your fan has a start capacitor and that gets it going but your run capacitor is not working.
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Power outlet inside a kitchen island. How do I protect the back? My kitchen island has a wire for power. Surprisingly, nothing is connected to it so I'm going to install a power outlet. I've replaced power outlets for walls before and generally the rear where you stick the wires in are exposed (because it's inside the wall). However, this one will be inside the cabinet. I don't want anyone to be able to accidentally touch the back of the power outlet. Is there anything I can buy that'll cover the back? <Q> If you can't easily do the work inside the cabinet, you can use a thin surface mount box on the outside. <S> The box screws to the cabinet wall, and you drill a hole through the cabinet wall behind the box to feed the wire into the box. <S> A standard wall plate goes over the outlets. <S> Here are a couples of examples from Home Depot: Non-metallic example: (this one happens to come complete with outlet and coverplate) <S> Metal example: <S> As DrMoishe Pippik points out, a kitchen outlet needs to be GFCI protected. <S> If the wire was pre-run, it should come from a GFCI source, perhaps one of the protected kitchen outlets. <S> You could check this by temporarily connecting a load, like a light, or a voltmeter, and tripping the kitchen GFCI outlets with the test button. <S> There are also inexpensive outlet testers that have a built-in GFCI test button. <S> If the line is protected somewhere else, the button will trip it (and then you can search for its location, like in the garage or basement). <S> If the wire is not protected, use a GFCI outlet on the cabinet. <A> Most electric codes require wiring devices be mounted in junction boxes. <S> You should consult the codes in your location. <S> From the tenor of the question, it seems you might want help in wiring this correctly -- mistakes can be fatal to an appliance user. <A> In this case 1/2" to 3 1/4" car flex and appropriate male and female connector along with a strap or two to fasten the flex to the interior wall of island.
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You need to mount an electrical box to the wall of the cabinet and put the outlet inside it. BTW, in a kitchen, GFCI outlets are recommended. Below is a nonmetallic box, which might or might not be acceptable.
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How to fix joist hangers where joist is not fully on seat of hanger This is an old house and pictures show the framing and joists around a stairway opening. Compared to the “before” picture, you can see that the wood was removed from both sides of the double header. The ledger shown in picture #1 (before) was removed. Joist hangers were installed (pictures #2 and #3). However, the joists do not fully sit on the seat of the hangers. I believe the industry term is “not fully bearing” on the hanger seats. Will this result in sagging floors or a structural failure? How should the contractor/framer fix this? Edits 7/16/18:1. Added “ledger” and “double header” (both are perpendicular to main joists) into the description of the problem.2. Yes, there is a knot with a crack in the 3rd picture. What to do about it?3. Would you suggest removing the new joist hangers and putting the ledger back in place (as it was in the first picture)? <Q> Sorry if this sounds insulting, but that is terrible work. <S> Build a temporary wall underneath to hold the joists in place while this is being fixed. <S> Then remove the hangers, cut all the joist ends to 1-5/8" off the beam, stuff a new 2x behind, then re-apply the hangers. <S> (Use plenty of long nails to attach the new 2x to the old beam.) <A> It looks like the original ledger was doing its job - the floor joists were staying up with the doubled header. <S> The Simpson hangers were not an appropriate application. <S> The notched joists' ends made it impossible to place the hangers per the manufacture's specifications. <S> I doubt that the hangers will compensate for the loss of the ledger. <S> There will probably be years of problematic joist settling with the related structural cracks and separations. <S> If you feel the need to improve the original design, you can add some blocks between the joists. <S> Blocking could make the floor quieter. <S> Regarding the knot in doubled header. <S> It doesn't look like it has sagged much. <S> If there is the possibility of something very heavy going over it (like a waterbed), then place another stud or two in the stairway wall under the doubled header. <S> The downside is that this would make the stairway feel more closed in. <A> All those joist have to be replaced. <S> Any joist requires inch an half bearing minimum. <S> 3” for a beam. <S> You got like 3/8” actually on the joist hanger and those do like there too small a hanger. <S> When you have those joists off replace that cracked ply on the lintel. <S> You’ll to put in a temp support wall as was mentioned earlier in this thread. <S> What you have in those pictures is unsafe and potentially a disaster waiting to happen. <A> I am going to submit this as an answer <S> but it's half question <S> , we'll see what comments this gets. <S> It looks like you could remove the joist hanger, cut another 1/2" to 3/4" in that notch, and use a 2x6 joist hanger. <S> I am not sure whether that would fly - the 2x6 attachment to the beam would have to be sufficient to bear the weight. <S> I am not clear what was wrong with the original ledger ...
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A logical solution is to just remove the hangers and replace the ledger.
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Will installing a beam under my shed's floor framing eliminate the bounce? The previous owner of my property built a roughly 16x12 outbuilding on posts. Besides doing many things in slightly stupid ways, the building overall isn't awful. I've converted it into a manhut where I drink beers and butcher deers. The floor bounces, and when I crawled underneath, I could have punched him. He used 2x6 floor joists, 19" on center. I dont have much working room under the building and am on a budget. Here is my plan: cut holes in subflooring. Using auger or post hole diggers, bury 6x6 posts (3) in concrete, shoulder cut 6x6 and use 2x10s to create a beam in the middle of the joists. Think this will be enough to take out the bounce and be strong enough to have a couple of guys standing, along with lots of outdoors gear/equipment in there without risking breaking joists? Grade of soil shown in diagram. In the footprint diagram, the lowest clearance is in the top right corner. The ground slopes from top right towards bottom left. <Q> If footings must go below the frost line, then I'd dig them at the edge, one on each side of the building in the middle of the 16 ft long side, and fill with concrete. <S> Then use the truncated pyramid blocks, or other blocks on top to support a beam. <S> The particular footing I use from Lowes or HD has slots at a right angle for 2x lumber and a square for a 4x4 in the center. <S> Here I am using one to support a cedar post (6" x 3.5") <S> so I laid in a piece of PT 2x4 with notches cut out on the corners. <A> I've installed beams in situations like you describe. <S> It's not fun at all, and will probably be a lot more sweating and swearing than you anticipate. <S> I would be sistering the joists with 2x10s. <S> They don't need to be the full length of the existing joists. <S> As long as they are attached to the existing joists within a short distance of the end, they'll provide enough stiffness. <S> You can probably do most of the work above by cutting channels in the subfloor near each side wall. <S> Cut access channels in the subfloor fairly close to the side walls about 18 to 24 inches wide. <S> Slide each joist, precut to roughly the same length as the original joists, but slightly shorter, into position from outside the building. <S> From inside the building lift the joists into position alongside the original joists, working through the channels you cut in the subfloor. <S> Use ratchet straps or an assistant to pull them up tight to the subfloor. <S> Run a screw through the subfloor at each end to hold them in place. <S> Bolt each end of the new joist to the corresponding end of the old joist. <S> Run 2-1/2" screws into the new joist through the subfloor. <S> Screw the strips of subfloor that you cut out earlier back into position. <S> Float scrap lumber blocks underneath joints were appropriate to prevent flexing. <S> This will stiffen up the floor nicely, and you shouldn't have much in the way of squeaking. <S> Certainly not so much that it'll be a problem for your man hut. <A> I like Isherwood ‘s idea about working from above, but not the “sistering” idea because you’ll need to excavate 5”-6” out from under the ENTIRE building AND requires a lot of lumber. <S> I like <S> @JimStewart ‘s idea about adding a beam at mid-span of the existing joists. <S> I’m sure the existing floor is very springy, because 2x6’s at 16” <S> o.c. <S> spanning 12’ will support about 20 lbs. <S> per square foot. <S> Adding a single beam at mid-span will increase the strength of the floor to about 185 lbs. <S> per square foot. <S> (The code requires normal rooms to be 40 lbs. <S> per square foot.) <S> Adding a beam at mid-beam will require a trench, but only at the beam not under the entire building. <S> The trench “runs” with the slope, so it could easily be dug to drain. <S> The beam could be a 6x10 or 3-2x10’s. <S> Or, it could be a 4x8 or 2-2x8’s if you installed a support at mid-spans and only had the beam span 8’ <S> I like <S> @JimStewart ‘s idea about anchoring the ends (which could also be installed from above). <S> If the coal bin is in the way, I’d move the support inboard a foot or so and let the beam cantilever the last foot or so. <S> BTW, Isherwood ‘s notion of NOT extending the sistered joists to a bearing is not acceptable. <S> This is why drilling holes through joists is unacceptable.
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Attach the beam loosely on to the joists above, then put jacks under each end and raise the beam (and the shed) until you can slide supporting blocks under the ends of the beam.
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How to fix a slate floor tile in my kitchen I’m renting my house and one of the slate (it looks like slate rather than the white ceramic type stuff) tiles from the floor has come loose, intact, just come loose. Rather than go through a tedious process of reporting a fix through the letting company, I figured I’d just try and repair it myself. What’s the worst that can happen? It looks like it was cemented (for lack of a better word) down, to describe it, it has stripes of cement like adhesive that held it in place and it’s just come loose. Question: Does anyone have any idea what type of adhesive this is and where I can get it from? Amazon UK URLs/links would be amazing! Please see this photo I took of the tile. <Q> Looks like slate <S> It isn't. <S> Slate, being a natural product, isn't a different color on the back than it is on the top. <S> That's actually a good thing in this case because slate is fragile and often requires more care in order to get it set level. <S> What's the worst that can happen? <S> Well...I don't know how it works in the UK, but if you try to repair it and do a poor job, can the letting company come after you for your deposit? <S> It might be more hassle later on than it is just to have the landlord get it fixed. <S> What is this adhesive called? <S> What you're looking at is called "thin-set mortar", and it is a cementitious adhesive that usually has to be mixed the way you'd mix concrete. <S> The "stripes" are troweled into the thin-set using a notched trowel and the tile is set in place. <S> It's not "adhesive" in the sense that it comes in a caulk tube <S> and you can just squeeze it onto the back of the tile and glue it down. <A> So let's learn a bit about ceramic tile here <S> How do you know this is ceramic tile? <S> Because of the white pattern on top of the pink-ish color. <S> Real slate would have the same look on both sides. <S> What holds ceramic tile down? <S> Thin set mortar. <S> It's a type of concrete and should be commonly found at any local supply store where they sell ceramic tile. <S> If you're only going to replace this one tile, you could get away with buying some pre-mixed, since a full bag for one tile is overkill. <S> You'll also need a mortar trowel with appropriate sized notches (consult the thin set you're buying, since the mix and tile determines how large a notch you need). <S> Most likely you'll need a 0.25" x 0.25" notch (not sure how those are sold in the UK) Just chisel out the thin set before you put more thin set down. <S> Why did this tile come up? <S> The answer is that someone did the bare minimum to lay the tile. <S> In fact, I would say you could rip the rest of the tiles up with minimal effort and breakage. <S> Look at the back of the tile you pulled up. <S> Note how almost no thin set is on the tile. <S> The thin set is the "glue" that holds the tile to the floor. <S> Ceramic tile has that white diamond pattern on the back to increase the area of adhesion <S> and you press it into the thin set after notching it with the trowel. <S> The problem with only troweling the floor is that sometimes the tile doesn't get enough on it to adhere properly Unfortunately, this is the minimum amount of work you need to lay tile, so quick contractors and newbie DIYers will only do that. <S> If you want the tile to stay down better, do something called "back buttering". <S> Think of your tile as a piece of bread. <S> Using the flat part of your trowel, scrape a thin layer of thin set onto the tile and then lay it into your notched thin set. <S> You'll get far better adhesion and tiles coming up like this will be uncommon. <A> Adding to the previous answers, you must also find and apply matching grout along all four sides of the newly installed tile. <A> I would chip the thinset mortar off the wall carefully with a cold chisel. <S> Then re-set the tile with mastic, a common tile adhesive available at most hardware stores. <S> If you save the previous grout, and care to grind it to a medium grained powder, you can combine it with neutral colored grout to color match. <S> I’ve done all of this before, as a firsttimer. <S> It’s easy and cheap but take some time and a little imagination. <S> You will need a small plastic trowel, a pint or so of tile mastic, a small cold chisel and a plastic or metal bucket,p. <S> Good luck!
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What you have there is a ceramic tile that is glazed and textured to look like slate.
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How can I dry out a soggy floor in my kitchen? some wooden floorboard in my kitchen got some water that had not been cleaned up for an hour and the timber seems to have absorbed some of the water and make a soggy sound when walked over. how can I dry it out pls? thanks guys for the answers, the thing is I am in London and not sure I can rent a shop vac anywhere close. so a normal table fan is of no use ? it is a purpose built first floor flat...with underfloor heating...I am tried turning on heating for a while but has not helped. think the wood had absorbed a lot of water..the thing is the spilled water is just a small bucket left for just 30 mins or so, so I am surprised it has become this severe. in London it is very hot these days so door and windows are open meaning good ventilation, but things hv not helped and actually I think water is seeping along the floor board and coming into the living room. so I need to act fast. this is the picture..if u zoom in u can see the water seeping out..and the sogginess seems to be spreading to other areas as well..so appreciate quick help.thanks and this is video.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfZVd6k_m6s about 2-3 liters of water spilled in the affected area near the kitchen which was mopped out after 30 mins. But even after trying to dry out for two days it has not helped and in fact it is spreading to other areas..any advice, please ? <Q> You could pick up a dehumidifier and set it up in your kitchen. <S> That will allow you to control the moisture level and speed up drying time. <A> The only way you'll dry things out quickly is to disassemble the floor. <S> Depending on your carpentry skills and the nature of the room, this may be a fairly painless task. <S> Without photos or a clearer description I can't offer specific advice, but it usually involves removing base shoe and lifting each row out as it was put together. <S> Otherwise, sop up what you can with towels and run plenty of fans. <S> Evaporation is much quicker if the dew point is low. <A> There is a specific tool for water pick-up on a flat floor. <S> Try that. <S> Then take the tool off and let the vac hold the hose to a joint for 15 min and periodically change to a different location.
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Airflow is key, and if you're able to keep the relative humidity down in the home, do so. Use a shop vac with the crevice tool on every joint you can get to.
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How to diagnose and fix apartment AC that makes intermittent whooshing noise My AC recently (I think, it's pretty new, possible I just didn't notice before) started making a whooshing noise. It sounds kind of like a sudden gust of wind, but it repeats every few seconds. Another way I can think of to describe it: imagine a PC cooler running relatively silent, but still being able to hear it. Now imagine it increasing its RPM noticeably for just around a second. Now imagine it doing this continuously. It's a Whirlpool split type 12k BTU. It also doesn't result in air being blown faster but, when you can hear it, if you stand in front of the indoor unit, air stops coming out for like half a second on just one side of the unit. Like the unit "chokes". Things I've noticed and done: efficiency doesn't seem to be affected, it still cools very well, but the sound is annoying. it only seems to happen on higher temperatures. For example at 24 and 25 C. Any lower and my unit will start blowing out more air as well, which seems to result in a steady stream of air uninterrupted by whooshings. if I lift the front panel, revealing the filters, the phenomenon stops! I thought something might be pushing on the filters, or that it's not closing properly, but I can't see any issues... also, if I remove remove the filter on the offending side, it doesn't happen even with the front panel closed. it doesn't always happen. Sometimes I run it for hours with no annoying sound, other times it starts a few minutes after turning on the AC. Sometimes it stops for a while. Any ideas? I tried recording the sound but my phone doesn't really allow you to notice it when it occurs. I can try again if you think a recording would help. <Q> "If I remove remove the filter on the offending side, it doesn't happen." <S> This tells us that it is an Airflow Issue and the culprit is in the filter mechanics. <S> I am guessing you recently changed filters - perhaps to a new brand or type. <S> Is the filter installed in the correct direction of Airflow - an Arrow on the side should point the way.. <S> The filter is not allowing enough flow (apparently a tight fit) and as the suction (vacuum) builds up the filter moves and eventually it is in a position to allow more air flow <S> and you get the whooshing sound of air passing either around the filter or surprisingly through it. <S> You can verify the filter brand and type recommendations of your unit - or compare to non offending side - perhaps non-offending side fits loosely and offending side fits more tightly in the filter slots..?? <A> it's water trapped in the back. <S> Tilting it drains the water or at least partially empties the puddle to the point it doesn't "slosh" from the big fan blowing over it. <S> The temp and humidity outside greatly affect the evaporation rate of the condensation, which explains the sporadic nature of your observations, as sometimes the coils will dry before they drip or puddle up. <S> possible solutions: Keep it a bit tilted, <S> as long as it's secure it will work fine like that Hose out the back really well, it could have a clogged drain channel carefully open the back when noisy, find the puddle, and drill a small hole by it <A> I believe one of your blower fans or squirl cage blowers being the most common I have seen. <S> Has either had the hub break <S> I have one of these on my desk <S> right now waiting for a new "fan" , this is rare but happens or the set screw has loosened the spring clip or other securing method of locking the fan to the motor and the fan is spinning loose. <S> When you open the chamber there is very little load so the fan spins , close it up and as pressure builds it breaks loose <S> , I think this is the cause of the "whooshing" please look at this possible cause quickly as if it is the cause the free spinning on the motor shaft will damage the fan and the motor, it may work ok but will get out of balance and vibrate. <S> Hope this helps. <S> I apologise I was kind of thinking of this when I commented and got called away and did not finish my thought. <A> My air con (Samsung split system) was making a whooshing sound for the past 12 mths and getting worse. <S> I thought I was pretty good and regular at cleaning my filters but have discovered I'm not as good as I had thought. <S> I was vacuuming them clean but noticed they were still lookinga bit grey <S> so i scrubbed them in hot soapy water and now haven't heard this noise for over a week now. <S> Hopefully, problem solved.
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I am thinking your filters are the wrong type.
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Why do clothes washed with my new Samsung top load washer have an odor? New top load washer that we purchased about 5 months ago is putting off a bad smell to washed clothing. I wouldn’t think the washer is dirty already. Any help would be great. <Q> We had the same issue with our new top load Kenmore. <S> There's too much moisture staying inside the machine after a wash cycle. <S> Our solution was to buy washing machine cleaner and run a clean cycle, then simply leave the lid open unless we were doing a load of laundry. <A> My Samsung top loader manual specifically stated to leave the lid open after use. <S> It also says to use the "clean" cycle once a month. <A> Check the instructions. <S> There is a machine clean cycle called Pure Cycle, pg 30 of our instructions. <S> I think the agitation is very vigorous and Pure Cycle is NOT to be used with clothes, but only to clean the machine. <S> We have had a Samsung top loader for several years and have had no smell. <S> We haven't had to use the machine clean cycle, AFIK, but different needs for different users.
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This washer is designed to be water saving and perhaps needs to be cleaned this way periodically.
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Is there a "universal" flux core welding wire for repairing any kind of iron? I need to weld a railing and am not sure what kind of metal it is made from. For the time being, I'm going to assume it's iron until I can do a magnet test. But short of getting a sample tested in a lab or doing the "spark test", I don't know how to identify the iron used. I was planning on using a flux core MIG welder, but need to pick a proper wire composition. Is there a general purpose wire I can use that would work reasonably well on wrought and cast iron? EDIT - it is ferrous metal. <Q> A railing ( tubular or angle) it it very likely to be "mild" steel , aka -carbon steel. <S> It contains 0.1 to 0.2 % carbon , a little manganese and silicon. <S> Highly weldable with standard filler metal . <S> MIG is the easiest , gas shielded solid steel wire or flux cored steel wire ( the flux generates gas to shield the weld.). <S> You want the most common standard steel filler wire. <S> You do not have the skill necessary to weld any type of cast iron; the railing is very unlikely to be cast iron." <A> If a magnet sticks to it use the flex core at the proper diameter for your welder as long as the steel/ iron is clean it will work I usually have a roll that I pick up at big box store, welding shop or harbor freight for when I run out of gas. <S> If aluminum flux core won't work it will require aluminum wire and a shield gas like helium or co2 or argon. <S> I use C02 as it is cheap at work they use a mix <S> but I don't remember what is in the mix. <A> Wrought Iron is basically your traditional steel, (wrought into a particular shape) <S> - you will have no problem welding this with the traditional filler rods/wire... <S> you mention cast iron... <S> now thats a bit of a different animal when welding... since its an alloy (not just pig iron, but added "stuff" to make it melt at a lower temp (like silica, carbon, etc) .. <S> The "blend" of these materials can get damaged when welding and you can create brittle section -- for this reason <S> , you need to pre-heat cast iron, and typically weld with a cast iron rod -- <S> but... technically you can weld cast iron with regular rods... <S> (just keep clean and do some surface preparation (i.e. grid a bevel/groove along the weld seam) <S> hope this helps
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Wrought iron" is an archaic name for very low carbon steel ; unlikely to be in your railing but it would weld the same as mild steel.
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Jacking concrete slab with shed We have a 10x10 wooden shed sitting on a concrete slab that is under water when we get lots of rain. Is it possible to raise the entire thing, slab and all maybe 6" somehow to get it out of the water? Edit: I'm not at the house at the moment, but here are some shots I have of it: https://imgur.com/a/j0osLr3 <Q> If you “jack”...you crack. <S> That slab weighs a minimum of 5,000 lbs. <S> (4” thick) and will crack when you start jacking it up a few inches. <S> Little known fact, concrete only has a tensile strength of 55 lbs. <S> per square inch (as compared to compressive strength of 2500 psi ). <S> When one edge is lifted, the top of the slab is in compression and the bottom is in tension THROUGHOUT the slab. <S> No amount of levers (regardless of fulcrum points) will keep the slab from cracking. <S> In fact, where the lever is placed could accelerate the cracking process. <S> If you’ve ever seen a contractor remove a sidewalk, you’ll know what I mean. <S> They use an excavator to pick up an edge so it will break and they can load reasonably sized pieces in a dump truck. <S> Now, if the slab is reinforced and the reinforcing is properly placed, it could hold... <S> but what are the odds that old shed slabs are reinforced. <S> In addition, even if you were to lift the slab, how are you going to EVENLY place gravel under the slab and then COMPACT it? <S> Impossible. <S> It would tip and put a stress point on the slab...causing the slab to crack. <S> I like the idea of trying to control the drainage around the shed and if that doesn’t work, I like the idea of removing the wood portion, using the existing slab as a footing, installing a higher slab and then reinstalling the wood shed. <A> You can do this with a little levering, in stages. <S> My dad always said you could move the world with a long enough lever, but 3 stout 12-foot 4x4s should do. <S> Dig three holes under one edge of the slab which are positioned at the centers of each third of the length. <S> Each hole should allow insertion of a 4x4 to a depth of 6-8". <S> With three sturdy friends, and using appropriate fulcrum blocks as near as possible to the slab, raise the side of the slab as far as one swing of the levers allows. <S> Place blocking as thick as possible under the slab and lower it. <S> Raise the fulcrums the same thickness as the blocking and lift again. <S> Raise the blocks. <S> Repeat until you have 10" clearance under that side of the shed. <S> Repeat the process for the other side. <S> Once the entire shed is raised, fill the void with inorganic gravel. <S> Level it 3" below the slab. <S> You could also place uniform concrete pads on a grid pattern throughout the slab area. <S> This would ensure a level base. <S> Place rigid blocking under the entire perimeter of the shed 1" below the gravel height (to allow for settling). <S> Lower the shed using the levers. <S> Obviously the numbers are approximate here. <S> Use your best judgement when estimating settling, etc. <S> If you don't get close you could see the slab crack where it's under-supported. <S> This also depends on a strong and intact slab. <S> It'll be spanning 10 feet while it's being lifted, so it's possible that it'll crack if it isn't already. <S> Consider whether it has steel reinforcement and whether you're willing to take the risk. <S> At no time should human appendages be under the slab. <S> This should be obvious, but it's worth mentioning. <A> You should make a surface swale or an underground drain to take the water away from the local depression where the shed is located. <S> How far is it to lower ground? <S> You could inquire about mud jacking or professional polyurethane foam jacking . <A> Dig around the edge of the slab and use a pancake jack to lift 1 side a little at a time. <S> Shim each side as you go to hold them up.
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If there are no cracks visible lifting a little at a time shouldnt crack a 4inch slab. Once you get the slab to the right height run 6x6 or 4x4 hardwood underneath the slab then reverse the process until the slab sits on the new base of hardwood.
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Should I glue or nail hardwood flooring in several widths up to 6 inches? I'm preparing to install 3/4 inch solid white oak in a bedroom using 3-1/4, 4 and 6 inch width boards. I'll be using a alternating pattern of 3-1/4, 4, 6, 3-1/4, 4 and 6. I'm told if a board is over 5 inches wide, gluing the boards is the best method. However, because only one of the boards is 6 inches, I'm wondering if gluing is necessary. My inclination is staple the flooring to felt, leavings a 1/4 inch gap between the sheets where I would apply a flooring adhesive. What would you do? FYI: I live in CT, where we get all four seasons of humid summers and dry winters. This will be installed in a child's 16 x 12 bedroom above a garage. Thanks <Q> I like installing solid wood on sleepers, but it requires an extra 3/4” depth for the floor installation. <S> I’d also acclimate the wood to the room for a couple weeks prior to installation. <S> To me, acclimation means separating the boards and spreading them out on the floor... <S> do not leave them bundled. <S> Then, I like nailing the boards to the sleepers through the tongue side at about 12” - 16” oc. <S> Stagger the sleepers under the boards and leave about 1/2” air gap at the edges. <S> (I’ve installed boards like this in gymnasiums, but we use thicker boards, thicker sleepers and we leave a 2” gap at the edges. ) <S> One trick to make sure the tongue and groove is milled properly is to hold one board vertically and jam another into the t&g edge. <S> It should fit snug. <S> If it holds and doesn’t slip out, then it’s fine. <S> If not, the boards will wiggle and creak when walked on. <S> Try lots of boards using both edges. <S> Oh, we stain prior to installation, but seal after. <S> Oh, for best results, install in the dry season...for obvious reasons. <A> Just nail it and forget about glue. <S> You mention felt. <S> Would the felt be present to prevent squeaks? <S> Or would the felt be designed to prevent liquid spills from penetrating through to the subfloor? <A> A little late to the show <S> but... <S> Any board 4" or wider is prone to cupping. <S> That's why they recommend gluing and nailing. <S> As for staples or cleats ( L nails )... <S> Cleats are the way to go. <S> Yes pneumatic tools are easier to use and most shoot staples. <S> The problem with pneumatic nailers is you CANNOT get as tight a floor as with a manual nailer. <S> Bear in mind too, that I was in the hardwood business BEFORE any of the new tools were brought in to the picture. <S> I'm not condemning anyone else's answers here, just offering my 2 cents based off of my 12 years experience in the hardwood flooring industry.
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Installing over sleepers on a wood subfloor is a waste of time and money. If you are going to put down a layer of felt, you could not glue it.
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Cut a severe taper (70 degrees) using a compound mitre saw I want to cut a few hundred stakes from scrap 2x4 lumber. The stakes would be 4ft long, and have a 70 degree taper at the end. The most efficient method I can think of for cutting the tapers would be to use a compound mitre saw. However, the most severe angle/taper that can be cut with the compound mitre saws I've seen is 60 degrees. Unfortunately, 60 degrees is not a severe enough angle for my purposes. The 60 degree taper does not penetrate hard clay soil well enough when pounded with a sledge hammer. As I mentioned, I'm really hoping that I can use a compound mitre saw for this purpose (rather than a circular saw), because I think the mitre saw would be the most efficient method--in terms of time--by far. How can I cut a 70 degree taper using a compound mitre saw? <Q> Cut it perpendicularly. <S> 70 degrees from 90 degrees <S> (ie: a right angle) is 20 degrees. <S> Square <S> the end of your taper and put a mark in the middle. <S> Set your saw on 20 degrees and place the mark so that the taper makes a T with the cutting rail, cut one side, flip the taper over, cut the other. <S> If you're concerned about stability - make an L shaped jig which you can put up against the rail and hold the taper against to keep it straight. <A> At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot why don't you clamp a block to the saw fence so that the stake is skewed 10 degrees when flat against the block and fence? <S> Then you can just set the saw at 60 and chop. <S> For cutting hundreds of them a circular saw may be quicker and easier though. <S> Once you know the length of the taper you can place a bunch of stakes staggered by that much on a set of saw horses and gang saw them. <S> A set of stair gauges or a board clamped to a framing square <S> let you set the angle without measuring, and you can but a straight edge jig (or track if you've got the fancy tools) against it. <S> Less than a minute to set up for each cut <S> and you can do a half dozen or more at once. <A> This doesn't have anything to do with saws, but it's too long for a comment. <S> Instead of trying to come up with a better stake, maybe come up with acompletely different solution. <S> My first thought at seeing the "penetrating hard clay soil" was to use awood/spade drill bit to drill a pilot hole in the ground before trying to tampin the stake. <S> Spade bit: <S> Wood auger: <S> https://pjcplantservices.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Wood-Augers-Bit2.jpg I have a feeling that the stake won't maintain it's cutting edge with such along tip <S> , so you might be hurting your changes, rather than helping, them bymaking the angle more pronounced. <S> Of course, this depends on if you or someone else is driving the stakes in, aswell as if you have an extension cable long enough or a battery powered drillpowerful enough to do it. <S> Ok, so this part uses a table saw: Using a sled, you can rig up a jig to allow you to make your 70 deg cuts. <S> Evenradial arm saws might not have the travel you need to cut the 70 deg angleyou're looking for, but you shouldn't have a problem with the right sled on atable saw. <S> Table saw sled: <S> Also: You might want to invest in a fence post driver, since slinging a sledge hammerat a 4' fence post isn't going to be easy. <S> Also with them being wood, you'relikely to crack them with a sledge. <S> A driver is likely to give you a centeredhit that is much less likely to split the wood. <S> Even if the stake splits/mushrooms the end, the driver will help you keep thestake in one piece, since it would encircle the split wood, helping to preventit from splitting it further. <S> Believe me, a driver like this is much easier to handle than a sledge, in manyways. <S> Guaranteed hits, no bruised feet/shins/knees/ankles, no broken bones,better balance, and they stay on the post when you need to take a break (just toname a few benefits). <S> Fence post driver: <A> You could make a jig out of scrap wood. <S> If you make a 25 degree jig, you could set the saw to 45 degrees. <S> 25 + 45 = 70. <S> Once you cut one side, lining up the other side will be a little harder. <S> You'd want to make a mark on the jig or maybe even make a second, more complex jig for the second cut. <A> Use a chainsaw. <S> It won't look pretty, but it doesn't have to: remember, you're trying to stick a piece of wood in the ground, not build a cabinet. <S> This would by far be the fastest and simplest method. <S> You could even stack a bunch of 2x4s on top of each other and make multiple cuts at once. <A> A bit out-of-the-box <S> but I was going to suggest a Tenon cutter (used to make log furniture).It would work best if (2) 2x4's were attached together to start with a square shape. <S> Amazon Link <S> However Tenon cutters tend to be (1) expensive, (2) they require a very heavy duty drill and <S> (3) they can be dangerous if not used correctly. <S> But along those lines there are jigs that you could modify to create tenons with an angle: <S> This guy has a great idea just using a Drill and a holesaw <S> (you may or may not want to gang 2 2x4's together for this: <S> Cutting a Tenon using a Drill and a Holesaw <S> This would also work but not sure how safe it would be: How To Cut Tenons with a Circular Saw Good luck
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There are also wood augers that might work better, as they aresimilar to the standard twist drills, except with a much larger groove forremoving material.
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Can I use three phase existing wiring for a single phase a/c unit? I am replacing an old 3 phase a/c unit with a new single phase a/c unit. Can I just use 2 of the three legs at existing unit disconnect to power the new single phase unit? Is that done by capping one wire or maybe removing one wire from breaker? <Q> Yes, a new single phase system can replace an older 3 phase AC system! <S> However there may be problems. <S> With 3 phase there will be a need to increase the wire size when going to single phase, so if changing to single phase your wiring may be 1.73× smaller than that required for single phase. <S> Other than this it depends on the cost of the system and available voltage/ phases. <S> Last year I installed a shaved ice maker that required 208V. <S> We only had 480V but the transformer was much cheaper than changing the compressor. <S> It's still working to my knowledge and was making the ice at a rate that it was supposed to. <A> You can't assume the new unit will use the same size breaker or the same size wire - in fact I'd be surprised if it does. <S> As mentioned in another answer, three phase carries 73% more power on the same wires, and three phase motors are generally more efficient than single phase. <S> Unless your new unit is about half the tonnage / capacity of the old, I think you'll have an issue. <S> You could use the three pole breaker and disconnect the unused leg, but it's a little tidier to replace it with a two pole breaker, no wasted space in the panel and no temptation for someone else to add something that shouldn't be on that lug. <A> Assuming you mean converting from 3 phase AC to single phase AC: no conversion should be necessary unless you need to alter the voltage. <S> Simply connect the live wire on the single phase side to one of the three live wires of the three phase, and neutral to neutral.
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You may be able to use the disconnect - it's OK to have an unused pole - but again it would have to be rated for the new load, and the new load may be higher with a single phase unit.
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Building work on concrete in a very wet environment - natural spring My garage area, which is currently just a concrete slab for parking cars on, has a natural spring that pops up just at ground level. The water never stops, and the concrete there is permanently wet all over. Im hoping to create a channel so that the water is funnelled around the sides of the concrete base, and later into a pond area set below the concrete. My problem is how to fix some kind of guiding masonry such as a row of bricks, onto the floor in a way that will be totally waterproof - but which will also fix to the floor, which will be wet during the process. Is there a concrete or similar material which will glue itself onto a very wet concrete base? Failing that, any other ideas for how to create a channel that will send this water around the sides of my concrete base, and not leave it covered all over? Any help appreciated. <Q> You want hydraulic concrete. <S> Hydraulic concrete is a concrete that will bond to other surfaces when wet, and cure when wet. <S> It can even be used underwater. <S> This page will give some guidance on how to apply. <S> Given the nature of hydraulic cement I'm thinking that your best bet is - in a dry place, build something that you can put in place to divert the water. <S> Test it by "dry" (haha) <S> fitting it against the spring (if thats the word), and once you're satisfied that it will divert the water properly once sealed, clean the wet space (Pressure washer, lose the moss and stuff) <S> then seal in your diverter system with the hydraulic cement. <A> Portland cement, the active ingredient in concrete and one of the active ingredients in cement/sand blends that masons use to lay bricks and more, will cure in the presence of water, even if completely submerged. <S> It will not “glue” to itself. <S> Any bond that concrete has with a neighboring material (even more concrete) is purely mechanical. <S> If you are going to lay brick, I recommend roughing up the surface of the slab really well in the area you intend to lay on with a hammer. <S> You have to take some chips out of the surface and expose some raw and rough concrete that the cement can bond to. <S> The more the better. <A> You can’t STOP the water, you can only CONTROL it. <S> You have water coming in from all sorts of places: 1) from above grade embankment, 2) from surface water, and 3) from sub-surface water. <S> I recommend you install a 4” rigid (don’t use the coiled perf pipe) perf pipe drain around the perimeter of your garage and on top of your existing slab. <S> Then install a 6” layer of round drainrock (3/4”-1 1/2”) completely across the entire slab and encase the perf pipe. <S> Then install a new 6” reinforced concrete slab on top of the drainrock and drainpipe. <S> The perf pipe should be extended away from your garage using a 4” SOLID rigid pipe to a drainage swale. <S> The perf pipe and drainrock will collect any moisture coming from above or below the slab. <S> Your new slab and garage will remain dry. <S> (Btw, don’t connect any roof drains into this pipe. <S> You don’t want a heavy storm to backup under your slab.)
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If you are going to cast in place a concrete channel or curb to divert water, I would recommend drilling some holes in the existing slab, setting rebar into them with epoxy, and wire-tying to these vertical pieces of rebar some more pieces that will run horizontally inside the length of your casting.
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Putting up my new ceiling fan into light fixture I have 4 ceiling fans I ordered to put these up into 4 light fixture. This one is a bit different that I did put up into replace an old ceiling fan and it was easy for me. I am not experience with the light fixture because it is different than the ceiling fan. I have three pictures to attach for you all to look at. I am not entire sure if this is the proper way to install. Before I started to remove it the picture looks like this So after this I remove this to check what is behind the light so I can know what I need to buy to support the ceiling fan (Yes I did google but it lacks answer my questions). What I found is I have a wood that is behind the light. Look at the picture here So I remove the black plastic bracket and install this and then this and it looks like this My only question is would that be ok if I put up the ceiling fan even if the mental bracket ceiling fan box is under the wall ? My gut feeling is maybe should I just take out the Ceiling Fan Box with Metal Cover and just leave the Fan Master Jr. Support Box and go ahead and mounting bracket that came from the ceiling fan box ? <Q> The deep metal box cannot be used directly under a joist. <S> Whatever box you use should have its outer edge flush with the ceiling, or close to flush. <S> The original plastic fan box which straddled the ceiling joist would have worked if the hardware for the new fixture had a metal mounting strap which could be secured into the ceiling joist through the slots used for the two long fan bracket screws. <S> The second plastic box (already installed) should work, but you would have to use a metal mounting strip (should be in hardware for light fixture) and use screws into the joist through the slots. <S> In original construction when only a standard light-weight fixture is to be installed, the box for the light is usually installed next to or between ceiling joists, but a basic installation of a fan box is a special fan box installed under (straddling) a joist. <S> The boxes are different because of that, but you can adapt a fan box to hold a standard light fixture. <A> You should be able to use what's called a "pancake box. <S> " It's a thinner version of the round metal box that you already bought. <S> You can screw the pancake box directly into the wood joist, run the electrical wires into the pancake box and then install the fan right below the pancake box. <S> You won't need any other parts. <S> In addition to being cheaper and simpler, a pancake box should give you a better look because your fan will be flush with the ceiling, or close to it. <A> maybe should I just... leave the Fan Master Jr. Support Box...? <S> You don't need the additional metal box hanging down below the ceiling. <S> What you do need to do <S> is ensure that the fan/box is(are) supported properly by being securely screwed into the wood ceiling joist. <S> To do this you may need a crossbar and/or extra long screws or something. <S> Carefully read the instructions that came with the fan and the plastic fan-rated electrical box, either/both should have guidance on how to properly support the assembly.
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Yes, if the new plastic box in your picture is listed as a fan support box, than that is all you need.
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Why did the builder install an OSB Wall behind Drywall? In my garage, the builder looks to have installed an OSB wall adjacent to the Living Room. The other walls are just dry wall and studs whereas this one has OSB and then dry wall on top of it. Is there any reason why they would have installed this wall? I'm looking to cut a utility access panel into this wall so checking if there's any negatives to cutting through this wall. <Q> That is probably what's called a shear wall. <S> Penetrations in your shear wall must adhere to different restrictions than other walls and you may need to consult an engineer to verify. <S> However, I suspect that if you're just removing enough osb to accommodate a small sub panel you're probably fine, you may need to block around it. <A> However, I doubt that it is because, 1) OSB board is very weak in lateral shear, 2) <S> minimal nailing at sole plate, top plate and edges of panels, and 3) panels are installed vertical and unblocked. <S> More than likely it was installed for backing for hanging garden tools, etc. <S> or sound control between spaces. <S> Remember, any wall between a garage and a habitable living space must have fire rated gypsum board (5/8” Type X or 1/2” Type C) on the garage side. <A> I am going to say that is most likely a load-bearing wall. <S> That looks like floor trusses above. <S> A sheer wall is usually on exterior walls, rake walls or where a roof truss would have lateral force, in which the shear wall, we used was panels with osb nailed off between the roof truss but not the wall itself. <S> Or it may be just for better insulation purposes. <S> I would simply ask an inspector about the panel since I assume you will pull a permit. <S> :)
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The OSB board could be a “shear” wall, it even has solid blocking in the joist space above the wall. It's laterally structural to support the building's side-to-side forces. If you cut holes in the wall to mount things, (or to install a utility access, like you say) will void the fire rating.
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Alternative to a basin wrench? I'm in need of a tool to tighten a nut such as shown below: Because of the tight space (area below the basin faucet), I'm never had success with the many wrenches that I used. At last, I came to know about the basin wrench which (as shown in the pic above) seem to be just what I'm looking for. The problem I'm from India and I cannot find this wrench anywhere in the online market (Amazon shows a couple results but they are from global store and cost a lot). I also tried a couple of local shops but they didn't seem to recognize it. So, is there an alternative to this tool that I can get it at my place? Some more information These are the wrenches that I've tried and failed owing to space constraints. <Q> I have seen some in plastic that may come with the faucet. <S> socket basin wrench <S> Here is an ingenious tool video to use of plastic tube wrench and another video of same Rigid wrench <S> I think I have seen simple ones that are little more than an 8 inch long tube with a slot along the length to slip over the supply hose. <S> One end fits the nut holding the faucet and some other wrench is used on the bottom end. <S> It is possible that you could have one fabricated locally out of steel pipe. <S> The bottom end could be turned by pliers or a pipe wrench. <S> The upper end could have wrenching flats soldered (or glued) inside the pipe. <A> There is also the "crow's foot" type wrenches <A> make a socket wrench out of a piece of pvc pipe, sized for the nut you are working with, cut slots on the end of the pipe so that the shoulders of the nut lock in to the slots of the pvc pipe. <S> If working with a plastic wing nut, simply cut two slots in the pipe that fit the nut. <S> If you don't have pvc, same concept with a piece of wood will work, but more work involved making the wrench.
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Another wrench type for this situation is the socket type.
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Issues with 4 Prong to 3 Prong Conversion I've really been at a loss trying to figure this out. Quick backstory: GF moved into apartment built prior to NEC code change so it has a 3 prong outlet. Her GE Profile dryer had a 4 prong plug attached. I may ask the complex to see if they will update the outlet to a 4 prong, but assume that doesn't happen. This is a second floor apartment and the device is in a cramped laundry closet. I opened up the back panel and the terminal block was oriented in a bizarre way from anything I've seen online. This is a used dryer so she doesn't have the owner's manual and I couldn't find anything for this model number (DPSR473EV0WW) on GE's instruction manual/owner's guide website. I disconnected the 4 prong including the green wire from the ground screw. I was expecting to find an internal ground wire from inside the dryer that I could reconnect to the ground screw, but there was no green wire to be found. I went ahead and hooked up the 3 prong as shown: (closeup) You might be wondering why the 3 prong is threaded behind the terminal block and it's because there wasn't enough slack (or enough room) in the 3 prong heads to connect them on the slanted terminal block when coming in from the right side. Hopefully this isn't an issue. My bigger question though concerns the yellow wire which I currently have attached to the ground screw. The yellow wire (barely visible in the second image) was originally connected to the neutral terminal along with a white wire (red wire fed the top, black wire fed the bottom). I have no idea what this yellow wire is. Is it it the ground? Should I connect it as I have done to the ground screw or is it something else I need to put back onto the neutral terminal? The back of the dryer discusses a ground strap which of course is long gone so I can go get one to connect neutral to the ground screw, but this yellow wire has me perplexed. I'm trying to do this right, but this GE design is really bizarre compared to all the guides online. I'm leaning towards putting the yellow wire back on the neutral since I don't know specifically what it does. I've heard that ground straps are not recommended anymore as it may not actually ground the chassis, so I'm kind of at a loss for what to do to make this safe. Any ideas or advice? <Q> Functionally what you do is get a jumper to connect the ground to the neutral since the outlet for 3 prong doesn't have its own ground. <S> Take a look at Harper's answer here <A> The cord you tore off was a NEMA 14-30. <S> I hope you saved it. <S> The old style was NEMA 10-30. <S> NEMA 10 will never be safe , it is defective by design, because it is literally bootlegging ground . <S> On any other appliance, bootlegging ground is considered "not even stupid", but the appliance makers lobbied for an exception in Code so that appliance sales wouldn't be hurt by a need to upgrade wiring. <S> I don't know what to tell you in a tenant unit. <S> Any safety improvement will require landlord blessing. <S> The easiest and surest way is to replace the dryer's circuit breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. <S> GFCI is a magic wand that fixes (or renders safe) <S> so many hard wiring problems. <S> The dryer will still shock you, just the GFCI will shut it off instantly. <S> About $80. <S> Don't let neutral touch ground! <S> The hardest way is to pull the entire 10/3/noground cable and replace it with a 10/3/withground cable all the way back to the panel. <S> The dirty cheat would be "ground to the washing machine socket"; that only has a #12 or #14 ground wire, and you're not allowed to downsize ground wires on 30A or smaller circuits. <S> I can't say if this is better or worse than NEMA 10 as-is. <A> The only "right answer" is to ask the complex to upgrade the outlet. <S> Anything else <S> and you risk the liability if there's a problem.
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Other than that, easiest to retrofit a ground wire from the socket to anywhere in the equipment safety grounding system (ground wires or metal conduit, the wires must be at least 10 AWG) .... or grounding electrode system (the thick bare wires going from panel to ground rods or water piping). Once a ground wire is retrofitted, change the receptacle to NEMA 14-30.
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Mounted tv too high, OK to use same studs to remount? I mounted a tv (60") on my living room wall too high. The heavy-duty mounting bracket uses large screws that required that I drill a 7/32" hole into the studs and used a socket wrench to tighten them in. (Total of 4 screws, two in each stud placed vertically maybe about 8" apart from one another) I'd like to remount the bracket about 4" or 5" lower than what it is right now on the SAME STUDS. Is this a problem? I am worried that if I do this again (re-drilling/bolting into the studs) it isn't going to be as durable since I've already done this higher on the same studs. I don't know that this matters, but this is a two story house and this is on the first floor. Thanks, <Q> Absolutely no problem. <S> The screws (actually called "lag bolts") bite into the wood immediately around them, and the wood fibers around that hold the bolt in place. <S> Yes the holes you made already weaken the fibers immediately around them but the amount is insignificant. <S> And, for a flat screen TV like you're describing, the weight you'll be putting on each bolt is hardly enough for the bolt to notice. <A> According to this source , which unfortunately does not cite its own sources, the following considerations are needed when drilling into studs: Holes in bearing wall studs (exterior and interior walls that bear the weight of the roof and/or other stories above) may not exceed 40 percent of the width of the stud. <S> Notches in bearing wall studs may not exceed 25 percent of the stud’s width. <S> Holes in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 60 percent of their width. <S> Notches in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 40 percent of their width. <S> The edge of a hole must be at least 5/8 in. <S> from the edge of a stud. <S> The most relevant consideration here are bullet point #2 and #4, related to notches. <S> Drilling a 1/4th inch hole doesn't even come close to removing that much material, although it may end up being deeper into the stud. <S> I'd say that you're in good shape to drill additional holes close to the existing holes, to the point where you really don't need to be concerned about it at all. <A> You'll be OK. <S> In fact, it's a very common structural technique to bore holes in beams etc. <S> You save weight and lose remarkably little strength.
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A notch is when you cut the entire cross section of the stud out, to a given depth - that is, if you were to cut the stud's entire width out, 25% deep into the stud, you'd still be fine.
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Condensor went, HVAC guy is blaming electrician, is this possible? My brand new HVAC unit, the condensor died. The unit has a sticker that says the following: Minimum Circuit Ampacity 32 amps Max Fuse / Breaker 50 The electrician ran a 8 gauge wire with a 40 amp breaker to the ac. The HVAC guy is telling me it should have been a 50 amp circuit with a 6 gauge wire. The HVAC guy has replaced the condensor, the electrician has replaced the 40 amp breaker with a 50 amp, but did not run a 6 gauge line. The HVAC guy wants $750 for his work on replacing the condensor on the brand new unit he installed. So I guess my questions are: Is this even possible for the condensor to burn out due to the lack of electric to it? Was the electrician clearly at fault, or should the unit have worked on a 40AMP breaker? Is the HVAC guy at any fault for not checking the electrical runs before installing the unit? Is the run of 50amp breaker on a 8 gauge wire safe/sufficient/proper? I'm in the middle of a finger pointing game and I am the one get stuck with the bills here. Thanks for any help! <Q> Per the National Electric Code (assuming you are in the US), #8 is for up to 40A, the Minimum Circuit Ampacity (MCA) was 32A, so there was no issue with the wire size he initially selected. <S> The MCA rating is based on the 125% factors already, so you do NOT need to do them again if you already have that number available to you on the nameplate. <S> Also, a "buzzing" sound would not be coming from the breaker unless it was loose. <S> That sound was likely the result of a failed starting capacitor. <A> Wire and breakers are current-limiting. <S> That means that the wire heats up and eventually fails (burns) if the load (your condensor) draws too much current, or your breaker trips when it senses too much current flow, assuming the breaker is functional. <S> Current generates heat, and heat destroys electrical things. <S> The condensor was either faulty out of the factory or mishandled/miswired in such a way that it failed after installation but without drawing enough current to trip the breaker or melt your wiring. <S> All fingers should be pointing at a faulty condensor. <A> The sticker on my 27-year-old Carrier 42000 kBTU/h R-22 condensing unit (3.5 ton) states MAX HACR CKT-BKR 40 and the breaker is a 40-A. <S> Did <S> the HVAC tech know there was a 40-A breaker on the circuit and proceed with the hookup despite reservations? <S> It seems to me that the HVAC tech cannot reasonably claim the electric service is at fault.
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If the breaker never tripped and the wire never failed, then the condensor was almost certainly faulty, since there is no mechanism by which the wire or breaker could contribute more current to the fault. The sticker on the condensing unit stated MAXIMUM 50-A breaker. A 40-A breaker satisfies this requirement, but it seems to me that the electrician should have installed a 50-A breaker, if the #8 wire on this compressor allows that. Bottom line, the HVAC guy is just trying to dodge responsibility for a defective product. A device draws whatever current it requires for a given input voltage.
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Re-surface desk for laser mouse I have an IKEA desk with a subtle fake wood grain paint layer (black) on the surface. The paint in the area that my mouse moves has worn away leaving a shiny textureless surface that the laser mouse doesn't detect. What's the simplest, cheapest, most effective way to re-surface that region (or the whole desk)? I don't like mouse mats. I'm thinking wallpaper or paint, but I don't know what types of paint will provide the surface required for the laser mouse to accurately detect movement. <Q> Shelf liner (contact paper). <S> Cut it into an oversize mouse pad shape with rounded corners and stick it down. <S> You want it large enough that you aren't snagging the edge with your arm, keyboard, etc. <S> It'll feel like nothing but give your mouse a better view. <S> You could use black <S> so it's not so conspicuous, but a bold color pattern might be spiffy. <S> Change it out when it gets polished or worn. <A> You need a surface with a pattern or texture on it. <S> In my experience any 1/4" span of distance needs to have at least 2-3 transitions on it. <S> If all the sensor sees is a solid color, it can't realize you have moved it. <S> The wood grain was doing that for you. <S> The reflectivity blinds the mouse regardless of underlying pattern. <S> So we can cross a few things off the list any latex paint (fragile) <S> any solid-color paint (no pattern) gloss paint (too reflective) <S> any LPU coating without some flattening additive (too reflective) <S> That leaves us little choice. <S> It's a tough problem. <S> Only paint I can really think is epoxy garage floor paint, with plenty of chips to add a pattern. <S> This surface may not end up smooth, so I would sand it smooth. <S> So I would look at other coatings, e.g. A vinyl stick-down coating, <S> I print out a sheet of hashmarks and change it regularly, but now we're just talking a mouse pad, which is what you don't want. <A> Rub the area with 000 or 0000 steel wool to bring back some subtle texture. <S> It won't be possibly lumpy or uneven like paint, and you can easily texture the affected area only. <S> This is a far cheaper solution in terms of money and time than paint. <A> Use fabric. <S> The threads are detectable by the mouse. <S> You can cover the whole top with something like a table cloth, or use a smaller piece in the work area. <S> You say you don't like mouse pads <S> but you're considering something like wallpaper, so I assume the mouse pad thickness is <S> it's main problem, and maybe the issue of keeping it positioned. <S> Soft fabric, like cotton, will have more friction; something like nylon will have less. <S> If you want almost no friction, laminate a piece of cloth. <S> That will also keep the surface from wearing and make it easily cleanable. <S> It will be cardstock thickness. <S> Something the size of a mouse pad or place mat can be laminated in readily available heat laminators, or you can use adhesive laminating pockets that don't require heat. <S> A matte lamination film will probably work better than a glossy film for mouse purposes. <S> You could also print out a custom pattern on paper, as Harper suggested, and laminate it to give it a longer life. <S> An area-sized piece can be stuck to the desktop with a temporary adhesive so that it doesn't move around.
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You could remove the gloss by light sanding (we painters call it 'scuff sanding'), but there still needs to be an underlying pattern. Note that if you're going to laminate cloth (or a paper pattern) and stick it to the desktop, you're essentially making your own shelf liner, so isherwood's idea is a lot simpler. As you have discovered, routine use of a computer mouse will polish the surface to a mirror finish, and optical mice don't work on mirror finishes . Obviously, a weak or fragile finish will quickly fail. I'd use my idea instead only if you were going with a table cloth or wanted a material or pattern that wasn't available in a ready-made shelf liner.
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What kind of sound input socket is this? I have this surround sound system at home that is very old and have these strange sound input sockets that I have never seen before. Does anyone know what kind of input socket this is? <Q> They appear to be the 220V inputs (source feeds - Fuente alimentación) for each device; (L and R) as each input looks like it has two connection points. <S> It has a custom connector that I cannot identify. <S> If you can read spanish the manual more information is here: www.kroser-electronica.com/descargas/catalogo2007.pdf <A> Looks like the 2-pin DIN connector like others said, and you can insert it with the small pin to the right or left. <S> I also found the same hotel sound control thing on another website where someone is looking for a technician to fix it. <S> And his version got 5-pin DIN connectors link: Other website with 5-pin version <S> Some more info and pinout of DIN connectors: <S> Here The fastest way to find out what sockets they are, is to open it up and look how many connectors come out from the socket. <S> I hope this helps. <A> <A> It took me a while but the connector is called “dot dash” if you literally translate it from Portuguese. <S> I have searched the web for the English name of it, but I was unsuccessful. <S> These connectors must be at least 20 years old... guess the best solution is to update the entire sound system
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Wikipedia specifically mentions a version of the two pin female din where "Most common is a three-hole female connector with one circular hole on either side of the spade hole, one of them with an aux contact and one without, which provides the option to leave the internal speaker connected by inserting the plug twisted by 180°" Or is some custom connector, to find out for sure you would have to open the panel up to look at the pins. I can't find that specific looking DIN anywhere though.
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How to hang mosquito net on the security bars of a window? We have a long window with security bars, I've set a mosquito nets on the outer side of the bars as you can see in the images bellow. The issue we face is that our cats (who love to spend time there watching the world) are jumping on the net (mostly when birds fly by) and they drag the nets down. I was wondering how can I secure the nets in a way that the cat's wont be able to drag the net down. I have no access to the outer side of the window as it is the third floor so everything must be done from inside our home. Any ideas and tricks are more than welcome! <Q> Use binder clips and a needle and thread (or just just sew it all in place if you find the binder clips aren't pinning your screen well). <S> Fold back the net at the top and the base so you can secure the net to the squared barracking of your security bars. <S> Use a needle and thread the secure the two nets to one another. <A> You could try and "double wrap" it at the top as you did at the bottom. <S> There seems to be a gap between the top bar and the wall where the netting should be able to fit through, you'll possibly only need to cut some strips out where the top bar is mounted to the wall. <S> Once it's been double wrapped you should be able to secure it to itself and prevent it from slipping down when the cats try to go through it. <A> I would recommend getting tarp grips to create positive gripping points at the tops, sides, and bottom of the mosquito netting. <S> Then use black plastic zip ties to secure the netting to the bars. <S> That still leaves the problem of the cats climbing the netting and possibly ripping it with their claws. <S> I would recommend yetanothercoder's idea of using hardware cloth/small opening chicken-wire on the inside, secured to each bar at multiple points with the zip ties. <S> It won't be attractive but it will be functional. <S> I have seen decorative grills at hobbyist woodwork stores that would look nicer (fancy shapes/brass coloring) but would be much more expensive than the products made from galvanized tin.
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If you're unable to do that maybe you could try mounting small diameter chicken wire fencing on the inside of the bars to help prevent your cat's nails from reaching the mosquito net.
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How can I use a standard prehung interior door on 2x6 studs? We framed in a bathroom in our metal barn. To allow plenty of room for installation and for added strength we used 2x6s. Is it possible to adjust a standard prehing door to fit? <Q> You can buy pre-hung doors for 2x6 studding. <S> See here . <S> Some doors with a split jamb might fit either one. <S> Do you already have the door on site? <A> If you have enough room in the rough opening, rip boards to match the depth of the rough opening from finished wall to finished wall, and nail these to the jamb, then install as usual. <A> it's common to have to add jamb extensions for exterior doors on older homes, and I've had to do it a few times for interior doors as well. <S> Simply set your jamb with the hinge side flush to the finished wall, and rip trim boards to extend the jamb to the other face of the wall. <S> If your jams are stained you would normally set those with an appropriate reveal, and not try to put them flush with the jamb faces. <S> Flush joints usually don't look very good. <S> If your jams are painted you could set them flush, but use a good wood glue to bond them so that the joints don't crack and show later. <S> Here's a representative example: Source
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If you already have one for 2x4 studding then it could be adapted, but it would be better to return it and get one designed for 2x6 studding.
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Fact-check on metal roof quote by roofing company I hope this is an appropriate place to ask this question. We've just bought our first house and it is in need of a new roof, so I'm shopping around for quotes. Metal roofs seem like something we'd be interested in for their "cool roof" (thermal) effect and their longevity. I asked one of the roofing companies whether or not they install metal roofs and if so, how much that would run for compared to composite shingles, and I got this response: Metal roofing is extremely fragile and is susceptible to leakage only after a few years, we do not install any metal roofing anymore as a result. This seems to contradict everything I've read so far about metal roofs. For full context, I was specifically asking about CertainTeed Presidio Metal Roofing , so maybe their answer was about that specific product instead of metal roofs in general? Regardless, I am a bit perplexed about how to reconcile all that I've learned about metal roofs vs this statement by a company that does nothing but install roofs. The roofing company was highly recommended by several of our neighbors who recently had their roofs redone (with composite shingles). Are metal roofs a bad decision? Are metal roofs via Presidio Metal Roofing a bad decision? We live in the San Francisco Bay Area, so snow is not a concern for us; wind, rain, and fire are probably the three biggest threats to our new roof as I understand it. <Q> Metal roofs are not fragile, that's complete baloney. <S> The gold standard for long lasting roofing are standing seam copper, slate or quality tile. <S> Standing seam steel won't last quite as many decades, but it's good. <S> All of these have high up front cost, but will save money over the long term. <S> Composition roofs must be thrown in a landfill every few decades. <S> Yes, metal can dent with heavy hail, but a few dents is not failure by any stretch. <S> And if you're in a fire prone area... <S> metal is really hard to beat. <S> ArrowLine Slate Roofing is a good product for a slate look steel. <S> A lot of roofers only install composition shingles, it's all they know. <S> If you go with true rock based slate, check out http://www.slateroofers.org/ <S> Re-roofing is also a chance to get an energy and building performance evaluation done. <S> There's a lot of detail on venting and deck top insulation that can be fixed as part of roofing job --- saving energy and cost and increasing comfort for the life of the building. <A> They also need to STAY certified, which requires taking classes (continuing education) for the latest trends, etc. <S> I like metal roofs because, 1) lightweight, 2) fire resistive, 3) <S> certified installation approval by manufacturer, 4) better warranty than other roofing materials, 5) colors and aesthetics. <S> This is especially important in older structures. <S> Metal roofing manufacturer’s have reps that will inspect the WORKMANSHIP. <S> You can purchase an extended warranty up to 20 years on a “no penal sum basis”. <S> Shingle warranty roofs will give you a 30 or 40 year warranty, but it’s for “material “ only and it’s pro-rata. <S> That is to say, if a 30 year shingle roof goes bad after 15 years, they pay 1/2 cost of ORIGINAL cost of shingles... <S> no labor. <S> A metal roofing “no penal sum” guaranty pays for labor and material at the then current cost. <S> (That cost is significantly higher than original cost , say 15 years prior.) <S> Metal seems more permanent. <S> I don’t like metal roofing because, A) cost v. composition shingles, B) difficult to walk on <S> when wet/cold/etc., C) dents easily, D) needs good / level sub-base, E) <S> existing roofing must be removed, F) difficult to repair. <S> A) <S> You pay for what you get. <S> B) <S> It’s slippery when wet/cold. <S> You can’t get on the roof when it’s raining, during a storm, etc. <S> C) <S> Flying debris in a wind storm is a problem...and is not part of warranty. <S> D) <S> If your roof sheathing is wavy, it will need to be fixed. <S> If not flat it will show defects. <S> E) <S> Metal roofing must be installed on solid wood (plywood or OSB board) only. <S> F) <S> Replacing a single panel is difficult. <S> (Hint: Buy a few extra sheets and store in attic incase your color is discontinued.) <S> Oh, if you select metal roofing, I’d use standing seam, concealed fasteners, best finish they offer and thickest metal they offer. <S> (If you live in a “high wind” area, make sure they increase the holddowns proportionately.) <A> His sentence is badly formulated. <S> A lot of guys refuse to install what you're asking for specifically, because they don't believe in the product and specially the methods of installation with all the extra caulking and splicing. <S> A standing seam metal roof is probably more expensive, but is in my opinion a much better alternative. <S> You can have one continuous panel, made to "infinite length", top to bottom. <S> If done properly, there is no room for leaks.
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Roofers need to be certified by the metal roofing manufacturer before they are allowed to install that manufacturer’s roofing. Insurance companies often give a discount for metal roofing.
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Dehumidifier to help a portable AC? I have asked How to get cold air from one room to another now I am thinking, the AC will be in the bedroom but what if I set up a dehumidifier (perhaps with a pump) in the kitchen connected directly into the drain? This last week mid day we had 60-70% humidity with 30 C temperatures and 90% humidity during the night although only 20C temperature outside. From what I read, it seems portable ACs struggle in high humidity to keep the air cold, perhaps this would help? Or it's taking air from the outside anyways and this doesn't matter? <Q> If you wanted to put a two hose portable <S> a/c in the living room <S> you could vent it out the sliding glass door by getting one of those pet door panels that fits in the sliding glass door. <S> You would use the pet door as the opening for the hoses. <A> The real benefit, though, is in comfort. <S> 74 degree air at 50% humidity cools skin more rapidly and feels much better than air at 80% humidity. <S> In fact, you may find that you can tolerate a higher temperature if you have drier air. <S> Your home will also smell better and you'll have much less mildew. <A> A dehumidifier is essentially just an air conditioner that re-warms the air before blowing it back into the room. <S> If your goal is to cool the room the additional step of re-warming the air is superfluous. <S> When water condenses it releases heat, so the cooling coils in a dehumidifier absorb that heat. <S> It results in cool water going down the drain. <S> The air that comes out of a humidifier is slightly warmer than the air that goes in. <S> Energy will be spent removing humidity which the a/c will have to make up for in re-cooling the air. <S> It will always end up as a net energy loss. <S> Before the edit I suggested an indoor a/c. <S> I know they make indoor air conditioners, but the idea of an a/c is to move heat from indoors to outdoors, <S> so I really don't know how an indoor a/c functions. <S> The only possible way I can imagine them working is by evaporating water. <S> Since your environment is humid it will already be pretty close to saturation, so that method would be extremely inefficient. <S> It sounds like your real problem is circulation, since you only have one window available. <S> But I don't think a dehumidifier is going to do anything for you. <S> The air conditioner itself is the best dehumidifier you can get.
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Dryer air does contain less heat energy, and therefore would cool more readily.
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Use of 20 Amp Breaker and 12/2 Cable for Circuit Containing 15 Amp Duplex Receptacles What is the rationale behind using a 20 amp circuit breaker with 12/2 cable for a circuit that only contains 15 amp duplex receptacles? I understand the rationale behind using 12/2 cable instead of 14/2 cable, but do not understand the rationale behind using the 20 amp circuit breaker instead of a 15 amp circuit breaker. Without understanding the rationale, I would assume it would be prudent to either: Replace the 20 amp circuit breaker with a 15 amp circuit breaker. Replace the 15 amp duplex receptacles with 20 amp duplex receptacles. References to the National Electric Code would be appreciated. Edit: I did not intended to ask if it was permissible to use a 20 amp circuit breaker. Instead, I meant to ask "What benefit does the 20 amp circuit breaker provide if there are only 15 amp duplex receptacles?" <Q> The 20 amp circuit breaker with 12/2 cable and 15 amp duplex receptacles allows for a total sustainable power consumption of 1,920 watts (20 amp x 80% x 120 volts) as opposed to 1,440 watts (15 amp x 80% x 120 volts). <S> Thus, the 20 amp circuit breaker allows me to run a 1,500 watt spacer heater, a 170 watt laptop power adapter, and 2 external monitors all on the same circuit, which would NOT be sustainable with a 15 amp circuit breaker under the 80% load rule. <A> This question is answered quite well here with references to the pertinent sections of the NEC: Is using 15 amp components on a 20 amp breaker against code? <A> Yes this question has been answered many time, in short as long as there are at least 2 outlets on a 20 amp circuit 2 single 15 amp or 1 duplex outlet it is legal to use a 20 amp breaker with #12 AWG wire.
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In short, it's fine to use receptacles and switches rated for 15 amps on a 20 amp branch circuit with a few exceptions.
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How can I prevent sewer gas coming from the drain of an infrequently used shower? I have a shower stall in my basement guest unit. As it's only used occasionally, sometimes the P-trap dries out. Other than remembering to add water periodically, if I haven't had any guests or I anticipate a long period without use, can I fill it with oil or antifreeze? What are my options? Is there something I can do to avoid having the trap dry out during intermittent use? Or is there an alternative type of trap I can install during an upcoming renovation? I'm also considering removing my wash basin (it gets moldy and takes up a ton of room) and adding a stand pipe to catch my AC condensate, but I am worried I'll experience similar issues. <Q> There's two solutions to this - a trap primer and baby oil. <S> A trap primer is a device that has a tube running from a fixture to a seldom-used drain. <S> Whenever that fixture is run, a small amount of water is diverted to the trap to fill it. <S> There are also standalone primers that run based on a timer and don't rely on a fixture. <S> Since oil floats on water, baby oil will coat the water in the trap and keep it from evaporating. <S> Adding a trap primer will probably be disruptive and expensive - I'd go with the baby oil. <S> You can use any oil, but baby oil (or plain, unscented mineral oil) won't go rancid as a food oil (vegetable oil, canola oil, etc) eventually will. <S> Plain unscented mineral oil is sold as a laxative in most pharmacies and some supermarkets. <A> Simple answer - fit a rubber plug to the drainhole. <S> Same kind of thing you'd use in the bath or sink. <S> That will slow/stop the P trap from drying and even if it does dry, the plug will be a seal of its own. <S> Fit it after the guest has gone, as part of the general cleanup and reset. <S> Anyone using the shower will realise why its not draining and pull the plug. <S> The biggest inconvenience is possibly standing on the plug in bare feet and it hurts, so pick a lay-flat style if you have any choice. <A> Pour a couple of quarts of water into the drain and put one of those thin, circular, rubber drain stoppers on the shower drain. <S> This may keep the trap charged for months. <S> Or just set an old plastic bucket on the drain or invert a bowl on it. <S> Do not put ordinary auto antifreeze into your drains. <S> The active ingredient is ethylene glycol and it is toxic. <S> There is a practically non-toxic antifreeze using propylene glycol as the active ingredient which is used to winterize plumbing, but even that is unnecessary for your case. <S> If you would use it, I would use mineral oil USP from the pharmacy since it is getting into the sewer stream from its use as a laxative. <S> As far as removing the lavatory, I think code requires one if there is a toilet. <S> Anyway these are an essential element of a bathroom for personal hygiene. <S> Do not under any circumstances remove the existing one without replacing it! <S> You could perhaps install a smaller one if you can find the right one, but this might require a surprisingly costly renovation. <S> If the trap on the lavatory is smelling from sewer gas, then that trap may be drying out too. <S> Every couple of months (after you pour in some water to charge the trap) pour a half-cup of Clorox into each drain and chase it with a couple of cups of water. <S> this will kill mold in the traps. <S> Where does your a/c condensate drain right now? <S> It is not a good idea to drain a/c condensate into the drain of a lavatory because it makes an irritating, sleep-disturbing sound. <A> The oil trick is more temporary than the rubber stopper. <S> Oil evaporates too, just more slowly than water, so it just forestalls the inevitable. <S> I have a seldom used drain where I use the rubber stopper recommended by Jim Stewart. <S> It keeps the trap water from being exposed to drier air, so it doesn't evaporate. <S> Pour a little bleach into the trap first so that you don't get mold growing in their either. <S> I've gone 2 years without using it and the water was still there. <A> I was unsatisfied with all of these answers as they would require me to actively anticipate my drains usage. <S> So I did some more googling and more success in my research this time as any of the following would satisfy the requirements of my question: 1) <S> Floating ball style sealing devices that act as both a back flow preventor and an evaporation mitigator 2) <S> Valves that use the weight of the water above them to open and close: <S> Sure Seal Quad Close Stink Stopper Green Drain Super seal 3) <S> Water free P-trap Replacements <S> Hepvo <S> It's doubtful that #3 would be good for a floor drain. <S> For the stand pipe #1 and #3 seem like are the best options.
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Mineral oil might not be good for PVC drains, and is probably not recommended by the city sewage dept, but in small amounts probably would not be harmful to most plumbing and to the sewer treatment processes, but is unnecessary. Next time you notice the trap is low, top it up and add some baby oil.
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Is there harm in using a GFCI outlet as a switch? I have a GFCI outlet in my garage which is about 4 feet off the ground. I have a couple work lights plugged into it which can only be turned on and off by plugging/unplugging them. I have recently just been using the "Test" and "Reset" buttons on the GFCI outlet to turn the lights on and off. It's a lot easier than unplugging both plugs and later having to bend down to pick them up off the floor and plug them in again. Can doing this a couple times a day do any damage to the GFCI outlet or to anything plugged in to it? <Q> Certain GFCI+receptacle devices are rated for this purpose. <S> Use one of those . <S> There are GFCI devices whose buttons are specifically labeled Off/ <S> Test and On/Reset . <S> The reason the "off" and "on" are there is because these devices are built and rated to be on/off switches using the GFCI function. <S> The difference between these and regular GFCIs is these are made for many, many cycles . <S> However, these are difficult to find (especially on the Web, where plain GFCI results bury them) and you will probably need the assistance of an electrical supply house to locate them. <S> One example is a Leviton 8590-RB, however that's a deadfront <S> and you'd want one with sockets. <S> Leviton calls it a switch-rated GFCI . <S> src <S> Far easier to find is the GFCI+receptacle w/ switch device. <S> src <S> Typically on these, the switch is two pigtails. <S> The GFCI+receptacle uses all 4 terminals (LINE hot/neutral LOAD hot/neutral) plus ground, of course. <S> In this case you would not use Test/Reset to turn the load on and off, <S> you'd use the switch . <S> The switch and its load can be placed on the LOAD side of the GFCI protection (carefully). <A> Get an Add-on Switch I 100% agree with all the others who said "don't do this". <S> The good news is that there is an easy solution. <S> Get a outlet/switch designed to plug into another outlet. <S> Something like BindMaster 3 Prong Grounded Single Port Power Adapter with Red Indicator On/Off Switch, 1 Pack . <S> There are plenty of different brands and styles available, including multiple outlets, WiFi remote control and many other options. <S> Also note that using a GFCI test button as a switch is very different from using an ordinary circuit breaker as a switch. <S> As I understand it, while using an ordinary circuit breaker as an ordinary on/off switch is often not recommended (and in some situations may even be a code violation), there are at least some circuit breakers which ARE designed to be fully capable of frequent switching use. <S> A GFCI test button is quite different - it actually produces a fault equivalent to a dangerous situation (but within the GCFI module so that it is safe to do so) in order to trigger the GFCI circuit. <S> The result if everything works as expected is that the outlet is turned off. <S> But that is a side-effect and NOT the direct result of pressing the test button. <A> The TEST and RESET bottons on a GFCI outlet are not designed for use as a light switch or load switch. <S> Constant usage as such will stress it's internal mechanism such that it may not function properly when called upon actually in it's ground fault trip mode. <S> If you want to see for yourself then take apart a GFCI outlet and a light switch and see how much more complex and how many more moving parts there are in the GFCI.
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As noted in another answer, there are some GFCI devices that either include an separate On/Off switch or are switch-rated . Those are certainly options as well, though they may be harder to find (i.e., may require going to an electrical supply house rather than Amazon or Home Depot or Lowes). If you're fitting a deadfront GFCI to gain this functionality, just mount a box next to the receptacles and put the GFCI there, using the LOAD terminals on the deadfront to feed the receptacle(s).
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Mini Split Condenser in Garage? With ventilation? I live in a fairly warm and dry environment and due to HOA restrictions am unable to place a window A/C unit, outdoor unit, or a system on the roof. I understand that A/C shouldn't go in attics due to the heat. However, I was wondering if an A/C unit could go into a garage that had an exhaust / intake fan cut into the side of the wall. This air flow could even be directed into a self contained box which the condenser portion is in. Is such an installation feasible? If so, how do I calculate what amount of CFMs the fans will need to push to sufficiently cool the a/c unit? Is it correct that a 1 ton A/C system passes about 400CFM per minute? If my garage is 5000 Cubic feet (25x25x8), then it would take about 12minutes to cycle through all the air. Thus I would need exhaust and intake fans that can push 400CFM? Thanks. <Q> According to this webpage , "the answer is an emphatic NO." <S> The page goes on to say this is because the total volume of air in an enclosed space is insufficient, including a garage with an open door as the air isn't likely to circulate enough. <S> From this we can deduce: <S> There is nothing in most codes preventing you from doing it. <S> If you are planning to do this, you'll need to pay very closeattention to where your intake and exhaust air are coming from. <S> If you don't design your ventilation perfectly, your system may notbe able to cool your space <A> I did it 10 years ago and it has worked well. <S> It is only a room size unit but will work with larger sizes. <S> It is not visible from outside except the 1/4" plastic drain hose sticking out of the garage wall. <S> It is mounted close to the ceiling. <S> The condenser draws air from in the garage, blows through the coils into the garage attic and eave. <S> In the living space there is a normal room AC unit face ( projects from the wall about an inch.) <S> except it is mounted a few inches below the ceiling. <S> It is a window unit , essentially the 2 X 4 stud wall is the "window", I added no extra brackets. <S> It has a remote control so being so high is no problem; actually gives excellent circulation . <S> The only problem is that I forget to clean the air filters. <A> I would say it would be simple if allowed to install 2 louvered vents on the outside of the home in the garrage wall. <S> This would work you just need to move the air so the unit can heat or cool.
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Encase the system in a box with the vents use a powered fan either temp controlled or if the unit has an aux contact on the motor contactor that can turn on the fan on. I made a plenum with a 1/4 " fiberboard with a white plastic finish , so from in the garage you see a white box near the ceiling .
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How is telephone distributed in a home? I know in modern commercial buildings, "phone" jacks are wired like data with CAT5e (or higher) cabling to a patch panel on a 19" rack. How does it work in small home with POTS? <Q> Only 2 wires (red/green) were used, with 2 spares (yellow/black). <S> All the phones were in parallel, which caused potential problems with inadequate ringer current from the central office. <S> The easy solution was to disconnect the ringers of extension phones. <A> But here are my recommendations: Cable Type <S> I recommend using 4-pair CAT 5e cable . <S> If you have some CAT 5 or even CAT 3 lying around it will work 100% for voice, fax and DSL. <S> But CAT 5e gives you the greatest flexibility to reuse the cabling in the future for Gigabit Ethernet - e.g., if you want to replace POTS with VOIP. <S> I also recommend using 4-pair cabling instead of 1 or 2 pairs. <S> POTS service uses one pair per phone line, no matter how many extensions. <S> Various telephone systems use 1 or more extra pairs for special features, though most modern systems need only 1 or 2 pairs for voice + signalling. <S> Using standard 4-pair cable gives you total flexibility. <S> Keep in mind that labor costs (whether your time or a paid installer) are normally much more than the cost of the actual cable. <S> Topology <S> POTS can be installed in daisy chain or tree topology. <S> A daisy chain typically uses less cable. <S> However, a tree topology with every jack having a separate cable going back to the main wiring panel, provides the most flexibility. <S> That includes switching from POTS to VOIP and also includes changing from individual regular phones to a real phone system. <S> DMARC/Wiring Panel <S> Most homes don't use a 19" rack. <S> Typical setups include a single set of 110 punch blocks (i.e., same as inside most CAT 3/5/5e/6 jacks) or screw terminals on up to a full "structured wiring system". <S> In a modern setup, the phone company will normally supply one jack or other accessible termination point. <S> Beyond that it is up to you, though with a tree topology and several jacks you will need some sort of distribution panel unless you are installing an actual phone system. <S> The distribution panels are not "smart" in any sense like an Ethernet hub or switch - they simply connect all the lines together. <A> In a small home or condominium, telephone (POTS), cable (TV/internet), and possibly other services, enter the home in a spot called the demarcation point. <S> The associated jacks throughout the home are also wired to the same area. <S> They can be connected various ways, usually in some kind of distribution box or media enclosure.
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Traditionally in the US, residential POTS was daisy-chained via 4-wire copper cable with drops at junction boxes or sockets. Plain Old Telephone Service (POTS) is very robust - almost any cabling type & topology will work.
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Is 15/32" Plywood okay for Subfloor under tile? Is 15/32" plywood thick enough to be used as a subfloor under tile combined with a 1/4" hardiebacker board? The joists underneath are 2x8s that are 16" apart on center and only 4' long. <Q> Most tile and mortar manufacturers want 1-1/4" (nominal) even with polymer-modified mortar. <S> While your joists are unlikely to flex, the subfloor might. <S> I'd use 1/2" cement board if height isn't a critical concern. <S> Alternatively, block between your joists on 16" or 19.2" centers. <A> No it is not enough. <S> Your minimum with your joists layout is 3/4" ply plus 1/2" concrete board and that is the very minimum. <A> It’s complicated. <S> From a practical standpoint, you want to use a “subfloor” during the CONSTRUCTION PHASE. <S> (The subfloor will get dirty, scratched, etc. <S> during rough framing and construction.) <S> Then during the FINISHING PHASE install an “underlayment” for the installation of the tile. <S> (The underlayment is actually a part of the FINISHING PHASE.) <S> Follow the Tile Council of America (TCA) recommendation for type of project (purpose of project) <S> i.e.: waterproof, high traffic, etc. <S> Then, the TCA will recommend the installation method you should use, (i.e.: thin set, mortar, etc. ) <S> Then after you’ve selected the type of install recommended, you can select the type of tile, (i.e.: concrete, spanish, (clay), porcelain, etc.). <S> Then, you can select the manufacturer. <S> The manufacturer will recommend: 1) subfloor, 2) underlayment, 3) setting bed, and 4) grout. <S> Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommendation or you’ll void the warranty. <S> In order to answer your question, we’d need to know span of subfloor and purpose of tile floor. <S> (However, most manufacturers will require plywood underlayment, not particleboard, OSB board, etc.) <S> Generally, in residential construction, 1/2” AC plywood underlayment on 3/4” plywood subfloor on joists at 16” <S> o.c. is acceptable, unless you are going to sit a large refrigerator on it...
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However, remember: subfloor during construction and underlayment during finish phase (installation of tile). Also I would never lay 1/4" hardieboard in a joist foundation. Even vertically-oriented 2x4s would do if fastened well.
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Upstairs Story Not Cooling Despite Working AC? My house has 2 zones for air conditioning (Upstairs & Downstairs) with 2 different air conditioning units. We have Nest energy saving thermostats, which are great for keeping track of energy history, and I noticed that the downstairs AC is virtually never on, and the upstairs AC is on almost constantly. This is mysterious to me because we clean our air filters constantly (Including the outdoor AC unit itself (Once per season). NOTE: I live in Suffolk County, New York Observations: 0) There is cold air coming from the upstairs vents, although it isn't at a very high rate. There are vents downstairs that have far higher (Around 2x) air flow. 1) The thermostat can't reach its set point temperature. This situation lasts through the day (Check History for more on this): with the upstairs temperature never reaching the set point, and always staying above it. (Note the 80 on the side is the current temperature) 2) The downstairs thermostat is in sync with the upstairs thermostat usually. (They are also both on at the same time) to minimise heat gain die to convection. AC History: Upstairs: Downstairs: Specifications: Unfortunately, there are no records of the AC system that I could find, but I did manage to get this from the back label of the AC unit that is always on: C 249534 . I don't think I can get more information without actually taking the panel off. There is also some kind of machinery on the inside (I'm not entirely sure what it is): Further Away: (The top panels say Ultra 80 & the bottom labels say Armstrong Air There are also electro-static filters (Which according to my dad contain the only filters in the system, although he might be mistaken, I'm not sure) Are there any obvious red flags with this set up? What is the most likely cause of failure given the set-up of the system? Are there any additional filters that I didn't know about that aren't being cleaned? Are additional specs required? <Q> It looks like the air handlers are both in the basement. <S> There will be a fairly significant friction loss due to the added distance of the second story air ducts. <S> If the ducts weren't carefully sized and balanced from the beginning, this could impede the airflow. <S> Another factor could be the return air. <A> Not knowing how your house is laid out, one certainty in life is that cold air upstairs will go downstairs unless it is stopped by something. <S> Are your stairs enclosed? <S> Is there a door? <S> If not, I suspect all your cold air is legging it down the stairs. <S> My parents have a two-story house (in Arizona) with a wide, open stairway and a large open loft area. <S> They have to set the thermostat (upstairs) higher than expected or else downstairs turns into a meat locker. <S> There is approximately 10 degrees difference between floors. <A> There is cold air coming from the upstairs vents, although it isn't at a very high rate. <S> If you notice the airflow is less than normal, then it may be a sign that your evaporator coil is freezing, limiting the airflow. <S> You can check for this by turning off the AC and let the circulation fan run for a few hours and see if the flow increases. <S> With only 12 hours running time, I'd probably say that is not your problem, figured it was worth a mention since you specifically mentioned the air flow. <S> I think the lower air flow is due to the distance from the air handler, since it looks like it is in the basement. <S> Where is the air return for the upstairs unit, is there a return in each room or is it centralized? <S> If each room has an air return, then you can try closing the doors to minimize mixing the air into the common spaces. <S> This may help keep your colder air upstairs. <S> If the air return is in a common space, this will not likely help you. <S> Its been a really hot week and your upstairs unit takes the brunt of the work, as others have suggested. <S> One good thing to having one unit do more work <S> is you get really good dehumidification.
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If the upper story does not have its own return air, then the returns will be sucking air from upstairs down to the lower floors when the system is on.
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How should ground wires be handled when updating switch loops in an older home? I have a house built in the 1950’s with fabric covered NMC wiring still present in most circuits. Those original wires are all 12/2 with no ground. I am currently in the process of replacing some of my old switch loops with new 12/3 romex from the light fixture to the switch box in order to bring in a neutral for “smart” switches. The existing switch box is metal. I want to go from a typical switch loop (my old wiring only has line and neutral) To one that supplies neutral from the fixture to the switch box These wiring diagrams belong to do-it-yourself-help.com and can be found here: https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_switches.html My question is, what is the proper way per NEC to terminate the ground wire inside the new 12/3 romex? The light fixture itself has a ground wire that is currently floating. Should I leave the ground wire disconnected and just cap it by itself? Should I attach the ground wire at the fixture to the ground at the new cable in the event that ground may someday be brought to that receptacle? (This seems more dangerous to me since it’s definitely not currently grounded.) Should I clip it up to the romex jacket and pretend it isn’t there? I know the technically correct thing to do would be to pull new 12/2 wire from the existing fixture back to the panel (basically rewire the whole house), but that is not economically feasible. I am looking for the most code-compliant way to handle this ground wire, but I am not having any luck searching through the 2017 NEC. Any advice on the proper way to handle my scenario would be appreciated, especially if they can point to the relevant section(s) of the electrical code. <Q> Then it must be carried onward from the panel sequentially up the branch circuits. <S> If you don't do that, you create an "island of grounding" where a few nodes are grounded to each other but nothing is able to return fault current on the ground wire. <S> In that case, you have simply created a "Ground Fault Distribution Network". <S> ( Bad thing). <S> It means that if any device on that island has a hot-ground fault or leakage, then all the devices on that island have an uncontained ground fault, and their grounded parts are energized at mains voltage . <S> Every switch plate cover screw, every machine chassis, all become lethal to touch. <S> It's the worst possible outcome. <S> Isolate the ground wires from the boxes. <S> This is not necessarily easy, they are bare and will tend to be pushed against the metal parts of boxes and devices. <S> Consider retrofitting grounds <S> NEC 2014 made it a lot easier to retrofit just a ground wire, and continue the original cables in service. <S> Now if you have an island <S> you'd <S> like to ground, you can ground it any which way you can - within some generous limits. <S> Not any random water pipe will do, but some will. <S> Neutrals can never be promiscuous (shared across more than one circuit*). <S> But retrofit grounds can . <S> So circuit 7 can grab a ground from circuit 9, provided they source from the same panel . <S> The pathway must be big enough for the circuit, continuously: so a 20A circuit needs at least a #12 ground (#14 won't do), and a 30, 40 or 50A circuit needs a #10 ground. <S> Metal conduit of any size is plenty for any of these . <S> Here's a strategy: first wire a "backbone" ground with #10 to range, water heater, A/C, dryer etc. <S> so you can tap it for other circuits. <S> likewise run #12 grounds where 15A and 20A circuits are in the same area. <S> GFCI is a good band-aid <S> A great many ground fault problems can also be avoided with a GFCI breaker (or GFCI deadfront or livefront strategically placed). <S> You still get shocked, but only for a few milliseconds. <S> * a MWBC counts as a single circuit, and its breakers better be handle-tied. <A> I see two places the NEC would shed light. <S> 404.9(B)Provisions for General-Use Snap Switches <S> However I don't think this covers you in this case, since you are not simply replacing a switch. <S> I believe 250.130(C) <S> Equipment Grounding Conductor Connections - Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions would apply, and the code specifies a number of ways you can add the EGC to the circuit. <S> Details in this question. <A> Sometimes in the olden days, there was a ground wire but people didn't know what to do with it, so it's folded back and wrapped around a clamp or other component of the metal box. <S> You might check to see if it's hiding somewhere. <S> Is it more feasible to pull a new cable from the switch to the panel? <S> That would be another method. <S> If you choose not to bond to another ground elsewhere in the building, you may be off the hook, as I did find some relevant segments in the NEC: 410.42 Luminaires with Exposed Conductive Parts. <S> Exposed metal parts shall be connected to an equipment grounding conductor or insulated from the equipment grounding conductor and other conducting surfaces or be inaccessible to unqualified personnel [...] <S> You may be able to convince an inspector that your light fixture is "inaccessible." <S> Moreover, there is: 250.86 Other Conductor Enclosures and Raceways. <S> Exception <S> No. 1: Metal enclosures and raceways for conductors added to existing installations of open wiring, knob-and-tube wiring, and nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall not be required to be connected to the equipment grounding conductor where these enclosures or wiring methods comply with (1) through (4) as follows: 1) <S> Do not provide an equipment ground 2) <S> Are in runs of less than 25 ft 3) <S> Are free from probable contact with ground, grounded metal, metal lath, or other conductive material 4) <S> Are guarded against contact by persons
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No fake grounds: Don't create "islands of grounding" Grounding must start at earth, via your grounding electrode system, to the main panel and its equipotential bond. - Grounding has an exception for adding switches where there's no grounding wire available, depending on the NEC rev applicable in your jurisiction, it could be as simple as adding GFCI protection to the circuit or using a nonmetallic plate.
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Is it ok to place a window AC unit in front of the window instead of hanging outside? I just put a window AC unit on a table in front of a window instead of hanging out of the window. The back is flush with where the screen would be so the heat is pumping outside.. but the side vents that are normally outside the house are in the house. Is there an issue with this? The AC unit is just about 1 inch too big to fit fully out the window...but the back is flush with the frame. Thanks Kelly <Q> This should work, except there are some potential problems: Usually a window <S> Here, you're taking inside air and heating it (still discharging it outside). <S> This will work, and it's exactly how single-hose indoor air conditioners work. <S> However, it's less efficient (perhaps a lot less efficient). <S> The evaporator coil (that cools the indoor air) also condenses water, which has to be disposed of outside through a drain. <S> It's quite possible that the normally-outside drain is now inside, and you're going to find an increasingly large puddle on your floor. <S> Your A/C will likely be noisier than it usually is (at least indoors, but that's where it counts). <S> So, it'll work, but there may be issues (the water one being the most immediately concerning). <A> You would be better off placing the unit on a shelf or bracket outside the window with the front flush with the frame. <S> Most modern ACs draw inside air through a filter across the front, and blow the cooled air back into the room through a directed vent. <S> Such a unit would work efficiently if placed outside a window. <S> Provided, of course, that it didn't fall off its shelf and commit an injury tort below. <A> I like the idea and it would seem to work with one exception - pulling air from inside the room rather than outside. <S> it starts to work like the max AC option on my car AC. <S> The pathway is hot room air blowing over cold Freon, cold air blows back into the room and the warm Freon is compressed (more heat) and cooled (to get rid of the compressor heat) with outside air coming in the side vents and blowing out the back. <S> The Freon temp is brought down to frigid by expansion, run through the radiator in the front and the whole process starts over. <S> Sounds like a great solution and definitely on my short list. <S> Especially because my new, expensive, Marvin windows warranty specifically says you can't use an outside the window AC <S> or you'll void the warranty. <S> Thanks for the suggestion and the picture. <S> Now all I need is a nice strong person to haul the thing from my bedroom down to the cellar every winter.
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A/C gets rid of the indoor heat by taking outside air and heating it, discharging it outside.
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Home not cooling at night Recently, we've started using the AC less for cost and environmental reasons. When it gets below 82 degrees (F) at night, we open the windows. My understanding is that the cool air from outside should eventually replace the warm air in the house. This generally has worked ok the past few months, but recently, it seems to be less effective. Last night, it got down to 76 degrees around 9 PM, 73 degrees when I woke up at 7 AM, but the temperature in the house didn't drop at all from 80 degrees according to our thermostat, which was set to circ with the AC completely turned off. All windows in the house were open. The thermostat is in the front part of the house, a 1,200 sq foot ranch. (This part of the house is an open kitchen/living area with eight windows, so there should be plenty of airflow.) We do not have an attic above that part of the house, but we do have an attic through the rest of the house. We live in a suburb of Philadelphia, for climate information. It has been pretty hot lately. Is this due to hotter weather recently, a thermal mass problem, airflow problem, inaccurate thermostat, something else? I'm new to passive cooling, but I feel like with a 7 degree difference between outside and inside, the temp should have dropped at least a degree or two. Not sure what to make of this exactly. Any insight would be great. <Q> Here's what may be happening... <S> At night, heat stored in the roof and walls due to solar gain soaks into the home's interior. <S> This is balanced to some extent by cooling from outside air flowing through the home. <S> Three outcomes can result: <S> The home cools somewhat if the inside/outside air temperature differential is substantial, and if there's a breeze to move air at a significant rate. <S> Heat soak and cooling are essentially balanced. <S> The home actually warms, especially on the upper levels of a multi-level home, due to heat soak. <S> This occurs if there's little or no breeze and the temperature differential is small. <S> The change you've noticed is probably related to lighter overnight winds and slightly reduced differential. <S> If you don't have a differential of at least 10 degrees, and the wind is calm <S> , you'll probably want to bite the bullet and keep the a/c on. <S> Run circulating fans and/or the furnace fan to keep all areas of the home comfortable. <S> If you do open the home up in questionable conditions, run box or dedicated window fans to exhaust the home overnight. <S> Run fans inward in sleeping rooms for maximum comfort. <A> I have read all the answers and suggestions from the other guys so I won't add any new advice. <S> By the way, they are all right about air flow, temps , the house insulation giving off heat, etc. <S> My only addition is that you have to consider the relative humidity of the outside ambient air. <S> As the air temp cools as it does at night the relative humidity rises, maybe to 100%, so you feel uncomfortable at any temp. <S> I live north of Pittsburgh, pa. <S> (go steelers) <S> so we both have approximately the same temps <S> however the wet weather has been relentless. <S> If it is humid outside opening the windows will make it worse inside at almost any temp. <A> Natural cooling will be very limited. <S> A large fan will cool fine ( depending on out side temp). <S> I have a 24" fan and it cools ( to the outside temp ) in 15 minutes. <S> I run it 30 minutes typically, to pull heat out of walls and house contents, then leave windows open for the night . <S> Maybe another 15 minute run in the morning.
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The home stays at the same temperature if there's not enough breeze and/or the temperature differential is small.
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Pulling wire rope so it's tight? I have 3/8" wire that needs to be tight (not sagging) between two wooden posts with screw eyes. I don't want to purchase turnbuckles if I don't have to. How can I pull them and then secure it with a crimp sleeve? This is different to the other question because in the other one I was asking about regular polyester rope. <Q> A turnbuckle would be a very simple way to do it, but I'll throw out a few other ideas since you're opposed to using a turnbuckle. <S> You could use a fence stretcher. <S> These are intended for pulling wire fence tight, but you could make a loop in the end of the wire rope and attach it to the stretcher. <S> You could use a hand winch ( <S> a.k.a. come along, hand puller, cable puller, etc.) <S> It's basically a winch with a hook on its frame and a hook on its cable. <S> It has a long ratcheting handle. <S> You could rig up a block and tackle to pull the wire rope tightly while a friend crimps it into place. <S> Etc. <A> Put the crimps sleeves in place with the screw eyes apart the distance of the poles minus 1 inch (1/2" for each side) and fasten it all together. <S> Set one eyebolt into the post all the way in except the 1/2". <S> Important, count the full turns it took top get the eyebolt in that far. <S> With the other eyebolt in place on the cable, twist the eyebolt counterclockwise the amount of turns it took to get the other eyebolt in, then add a few more turns if possible. <S> This will insure the cable has the best chance to be tight when you are done. <S> (This is what the 1/2" extra on each end and the extra reverse turns are about) <S> It may take a bit of effort or extra help to control the reversed cable, but start it in the pre-drilled hole and turn the screw in. <S> That should get you tight, at least as much as 2 wood posts will allow. <S> I did this with concrete threaded inserts on both sides of a concrete wall and 1/8" stainless steel cable between them, and they got bowstring tight. <S> I installed about 14 of them in a room for hanging things from. <A> I'll suggest an alternate method. <S> Bend the two posts together with a ratchet strap. <S> Tighten the cable by hand and then crimp the ends. <S> Loosen the strap.
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If you have access to a vehicle with a winch, you could use that to stretch the wire rope.
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Latch won't retract into my door unless I turn the knob Starting about a week ago, the latch on my back door knob won't retract into the doorknob unless I turn the doorknob. This means to close my door properly I have to unlock the doorknob, turn it, close the door, then lock it again. If I try to just close it, the latch won't retract and just bangs against the door frame. If I try to push the latch closed with my hand, it (mostly) won't budge. If I fiddle with it enough, I am able to push it in, but usually this doesn't work. Is this just a possible issue that lubrication will solve? Or am I looking at replacing my doorknob/lock? <Q> I think a little lubrication will fix this. <S> Try turning the knob so the latch is retracted and spraying a little lube into the hole where the latch goes. <S> Use the little straw that comes with the spray can, and get it as far in as you can. <S> Spray very sparingly. <S> Then turn the knob back and forth to work the latch. <S> See if it's working any better, and repeat if necessary. <S> A shot in the keyhole as well won't hurt, while you're at it. <S> If this doesn't do it, you may have to remove the doorknob / lockset and remove the latch to apply the lubricant more thoroughly - <S> but I doubt it will be necessary. <S> For the lubricant - some people agonize over what to use, I do not, WD-40 or a good quality silicone spray will be fine. <A> Bolts rarely get sticky unless something has shifted or broken. <S> There's nothing wrong with trying some lube, but my guess is that the knob's mounting screws have loosened, and the knob has been displaced upward or downward, causing binding . <S> I'd loosen the screws slightly, slide the knob up and down to find center, and snug the screws up again. <S> Lubricating may allow the bolt to move freely again, but maybe only until the lube is worn away. <S> Better to fix the actual problem. <A> I think it has to do with august heat and humidity. <S> I would tighten the screws on the hinges, frame and door, to pull the plunger away from the latch. <S> If your door has enough give to seasonally conk-out, it should have enough give to tighten up once you put major torque on the hinge screws. <S> WD40 can also help lower the activation energy threshold, which can make-or-break borderline operation. <A> Tried lubrication but it didn't seem to fix the problem. <A> I know this is an old thread <S> but I used garage door silicon lubricant in the latch mechanism and it worked like a pro. <S> No issues.
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I ended up just buying a new latch assembly and that solved my problem.
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What handle and lock for sliding door with no internal mechanism? My house, built in 1959, has a sliding door with no internal latch or lock mechanism or space for one. I'd like to replace the current "handle" (a bolt with nuts). Are there handles designed for a door like this? The simplest solution I have so far is to take two handles with identical mounting holes and put them on either side of the door, fastened with bolts and nuts. But a handle, and especially a handle with a lock, designed for this type of door would be great. <Q> You could try to find the original equipment manufacturer's (OEM) latching handle , or adapt a similar one to fit the door. <S> A loop lock could also serve as a handle, and should be simple to install. <S> The latches on glass doors are usually flimsy, and can be defeated by lifting the door in the frame, so a separate lock is often used, anyway, such as one that clamps to the rail . <S> N.B. <S> Be very careful drilling holes for the latch -- it is easy to crack the glass next to the hole! <A> You could do a computer search for "sliding door foot locks" which I have on my sliding doors or try "sliding patio door security locks". <A> This is somewhat of a tangent, but 1959 is early enough that it's possible that tempered/safety glass wasn't used in the door. <S> (Internet says 1964 is when that requirement went into place in America.) <S> If it's using normal window glass and someone trips and falls through the door, they could be severely injured or die. <S> With that in mind, I recommend checking the corners of the glass insert for any markings like "tempered". <S> If there are no markings, I would recommend at least considering replacement of the whole door.
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If you don't mind a separate locking mechanism, cabinet or drawer pulls might suffice.
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Why is one mounting screw left behind each electrical panel's cover? I have three electrical panels in the house and with each one, one of the face screws is under the cover as seen in the picture. So it's clearly intentional. What's the purpose of it? <Q> If I am seeing your photos right, it's a mild security feature. <S> When I worked in electrical contracting, that was done so that a panel could have a lock installed on the door, and then (theoretically) prevent unauthorized access by surreptitiously removing the panel front. <S> If someone wants to get in, they will, but the unauthorized access will take some effort and will be detected. <A> I can see that the screw was over the cover at one time by the marks in the paint. <S> This leads me to wonder whether bulging the cover by keeping that screw behind may have let the latch operate easier. <A> That's pretty "screwy" looking, lol. <S> Ok that's a bad joke... <S> It appears to not be for a latch, but without inspecting it myself, who knows ? <S> Most latch acres I've seen are not near the outside edges of the panel cover, but much rather closer towards the opening of the panel cover. <S> These type of are made for more commercial / industrial type of applications, as the breakers are held in place by screws to their related buss.
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Looks more like a screw that was left in the panel frame prior to the cover needing to go back on... Like most locks, they are meant to deter rather than completely prevent access.
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Please identify this ceiling texture Please identify this ceiling texture Thank you! <Q> OK, i can identify it. <S> It is That ugly texture for the 70's that the neighbor lady talked my mom into letter her put on my bedroom ceiling. <S> I think she had stock in the mud company because it uses a lot of mud. <S> I also had red white and blue shag carpet in 1976. <S> And you wonder where i get my warped sense of humor. <S> Which stipple brush will match my pattern? <S> One possibility is they used a straight brush, loaded it with mud and poked the ceiling, pulled straight back and then turned the brush and poke and turned the brush and poked and tur- - - ked. <A> That is a stippled ceiling. <S> Supporting link <A> It reminds me of a plastic bag texture - where the plaster is spread on smooth-ish, then a sponge or cloth is put inside a clean plastic bag, lightly touched to the wet plaster, and then pulled straight down. <S> I'd suggest doing a practice run on a scrap board, both to confirm the right technique and to get your hand in. <S> Or don't - stippling is no longer trendy. <S> For a modern look, scrape it all off with a hoe, sand flat and prime/paint. <S> This is a super messy task.
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She also did one on the living room ceiling that was like a swirl, she would dip a brush in mud, stick it on the ceiling ( poke the ceiling ) and turn it before pulling straight away from the ceiling.
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Insulate pipes in closet The previous homeowners ran the plumbing for the upstairs bathroom through one of the downstair bedroom closest. They actually built wire shelving around them. Obviously, when using the bathroom upstairs, the noise is very loud in the downstairs bedroom. What would be the best way for me to box the pipes in and insulate them from making noise? I'd love to board them up and build built in shelving out of wood. We live in the south, so freezing isn't really an issue. I plan on disconnecting the outlet. Thanks! <Q> If you simply boxed around it with 2x4s, insulated with fiberglass bat insulation, and covered with a double layer of drywall, it would give you quite a reduction in noise. <S> You will need to blank off that receptacle and leave an access panel in the front so the box is accessible. <S> If you frame around it with metal studs, and use homasote rather than drywall, you will achieve even greater sound insulation. <A> Bats answer is perfectly acceptable. <S> As an alternative, if you go that route you are already going to be dealing with framing and drywall. <S> If you know how to plumb or are willing to pay, its not a ton of work to add a couple of inches of copper and PVC with elbows to actually get the pipes behind the wall where they belong. <S> In the end you aren't losing a ton of closet space framing it out, I just wanted to point out that the effort to do this properly wouldn't be all that much beyond what you are already getting into. <A> Noise is created in the drain pipe when air is introduced into the system. <S> I’ll bet if you ran a vanity or shower upstairs, there would be little/no noise in the drain pipe because the water would run down the pipe on the inside surface of the pipe. <S> That is to say, centrifugal force will keep the water to the outside surface of pipe. <S> Noise is created when you flush the toilet and the water starts tumbling. <S> and I’d make sure it connected to the toilet and extended down through all floors. <S> Do not just replace the straight section of pipe. <S> Then add pipe insulation to water pipes so they don’t sweat in the enclosed furred space and install unfaced batt insulation around the drain pipe and then build your furring/gypsum board/etc. <S> BTW, that pipe looks small for a toilet to be connected into it. <S> (Is that 3”?)
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Encasing the drain pipe and covering with insulation will help, but you’ll still hear the flushing from the toilet. If you're making a mess with drywall do it all at once. I’d replace the pipe with cast iron pipe
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Tips on cutting curves with a jigsaw I recently needed to cut a hole in a 3/4 inch pine wood board. The hole was supposed to be about 6 inches in diameter. I drilled a hole near the edge and used my corded Makita jigsaw. I had used the jigsaw before, but only to cut straight. I used a 10 teeth per inch blade that cuts on the up stroke. When I did this and tried to curve, the jigsaw wobbled a lot. It felt like the saw wasn't wanting to do what I wanted it to and I think I must be doing something wrong. I have watched a bunch of videos and it looks so easy to make curved cuts. I was hoping that someone would be able to give my concrete tips on how to cut curves with a jigsaw. In articular I would like to know how to do this in 3/4 inch thick pinewood (hardwood?). I have looked this up, but I only find very general guides. Do I go fast or slow? What blade is best for curves? What speed setting should the jig saw be set at? etc. I am a complete noob, so please don't assume that I know much already. <Q> The wider the blade in relation to its thickness, the greater the issue. <S> Of course, a narrow blade is weaker. <S> To make it easier, there are commercial circle-cutting attachments available for sabre saws and jig saws, or you can make your own attachment . <A> It just takes practice. <S> When cutting, make sure you are constantly rotating the jigsaw as you move forward, if you stop rotating, you'll find yourself outside the line. <S> IMO, I hate using the jigsaw, terribly inaccurate tool. <S> I use it only when other saws wont work, or a small cut that doesn't really matter. <A> I own hole saws for this very reason; completely perfect circular holes every time. <S> BUT, if you need to use a jigsaw, the best thing is to use a narrower blade they make for jigsaws ( example ). <S> The "normal" blades bind a bit when curving a cut. <S> As far as technique, draw my circle in pencil with either a compass or a can. <S> drill a hole near an edge, but not on the edge (maybe 1/2" in) do not muscle the jigsaw, let the teeth of the blade do their job; this will deliver a smoother cut. <S> saw towards the perimeter at a slanted angle <S> When you get near the perimeter, maneuver the blade to follow the curvature of the design. <S> If you can't follow, stop sawing, back it up, and try a new approach on your angle. <S> If you need a perfect circle that is smooth, you will need to sand the hole (especially where you made first contact with the perimeter as there is almost always a small bit of wood there that the saw can't easily get).
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Cutting curves is more difficult because the toothless back of the blade presses against the edge of the cut, forcing the toothed edge to cut sideways.
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Gap between foundation and wrap I recently purchased a new house in Ontario, Canada. The grading will be completed in the following months. During a walk around the house, I noticed gaps between the foundation walls and the wrapping. How much of an issue is this? Should this be fixed by the builder? Thank you. <Q> That's a water proofing hard'ish plastic called air gap waterproofing membrane, commonly referred to as dimple board. <S> it's not a part of the vapour barrier <S> and it's primary function <S> is to stop water from the water table entering the foundation. <S> It's is good practice to run that it up higher so that it's flush with the finished grade upon completion. <S> The missing morter is actually a requirement to allow condensation for the space between the wood structure and the brick to dry or drip out in extreme cases. <S> I'm from Toronto and see this stuff almost daily. <S> I did have to look up the official name as everyone just refers to it as dimple board. <A> If your referring to the barrier between the slab and the ground the important part of it is under the slab. <S> I would be more concerned with the mortar missing on the bottom row of bricks. <S> There is one gap that looks like has none. <S> That is either a drain or an inlet or shouldn't be open. <A> Since you did not mention a basement I would say that is a vapor barrier, in some areas this will greatly extend the life of the cement work and reduce the moisture coming up through the concrete. <S> Nothing to worry about there in my opinion.
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The builder will likely do nothing because any landscaping should always be sloped away from your house anyway.
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