source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
How to mitigate voltage drop? I currently have a sump pump in my basement that is normally powered by plugging it into an outlet. When we lose power, I have a 100 amp hour marine deep cycle lead acid battery along with a 1200 watt power inverter to power the 1/3 horsepower sump pump.The power inverter has an automatic shutoff when the voltage of the battery drops below 10.5 volts and because of that shutoff, the power inverter will start to power the pump however I can see on the display that the battery is dropping to 9 volts and then shortly after the inverter cuts the power. I was wondering how would I be able to mitigate this voltage drop in order to prolong the batteries from dropping below 10.5 volts? <Q> Edit : I hadn't quite realized the pump draws 8 A at 110 V, which would mean 125 A at 12 V. <S> The wire gauge is thick enough for that (4 gauge is 20 mm 2 ) but not by a wide margin. <S> At these power levels, minimizing the resistance is critical, all connections have to be perfect. <S> To doublecheck the wiring: measure the voltage between the battery terminals on the input of the inverter on the output of the inverter all while the pump is running. <S> A difference between 1 and 2 indicates a wiring problem. <S> If 3 is much lower than the rated voltage, that will cause the inverter to shut down. <S> Have you checked if the battery is properly charged? <S> A voltage drop like that can indicate the battery is almost empty. <S> When it's not providing a current, battery voltage will look okay, but voltage will drop rapidly when current is drawn. <S> If the pump really draws 880 W, that's a pretty big load (comparable to a starter motor), and on the edge of what a battery can supply. <S> So that may be part of the problem. <A> Since you keep a 6 amp charger on the battery you may have boiled the water out of the battery it shows a full charge until a load is put on the battery <S> then the voltage drops because there is not enough liquid to maintain the voltage/ current demand. <S> If you can open the battery and add distilled water and this may provide some run time. <S> Next find a quality Float charger, these do not over charge the battery like a trickle <S> charger will and boil off the water. <S> A larger deep cycle battery is what you need standard car batteries are not designed for deep cycle. <S> Get as large deep cycle battery as you can afford (higher amp hours) <S> golf cart batterys are also a good way to go many of these are 6v so it would take 2 in series. <A> Would a smaller pump suffice? <S> That, along with Ed Beal's answer about battery health, might be all you need. <S> My parents used to live in a house at the bottom of a hill. <S> Every big storm would knock out the power, produce lots of runoff, and flood the basement. <S> Their solution was to add a 12V bilge pump to the sump, in addition to the 120V pump that was already there. <S> The float valves were adjusted so the bilge pump would only operate when the main pump failed. <S> The bilge pump ran off two marine batteries in parallel that were connected to a small float charger. <S> No inverter was needed, which helped a lot with efficiency. <S> That solution worked perfectly. <S> It also saved them when the main pump burned out, which seemed to happen about once a year. <A> Top off the battery electrolyte solution with distilled water, charge the battery to 100%, and bring your deep cell battery to a automotive parts for a free battery load test to determine if your battery is bad. <S> You can also test with a multimeter, but that's not always a good indicator of battery ability. <S> If your battery is bad, replace it and retest it with the pump/inverter to see if that fixes the problem. <S> If your battery is good, purchase another battery of the same type and connect the two batteries in parallel to double the capacity. <S> Do not connect them in series or it will double the voltage to 24VDC and destroy your inverter.
|
Last you might want to look at a larger battery, placing batteries in parallel will increase the time the system will run but if one battery is bad or has low internal resistance it will discharge the other battery unless there is an isolator.
|
Knowing where to drill holes in steel plate? I have a concrete floor and I made two holes to bolt a 1/4"-thick steel plate. The problem is that the steel plates haven't been drilled yet. How can I determine where the holes will be drilled in the steel plates so they match the holes in the concrete? <Q> Lay the steel plate on the concrete where you want it. <S> Draw a line around it. <S> Cut a piece of paper to the same size as the steel plate. <S> Place it on the concrete in the same position as the marked outline. <S> Locate the concrete holes by gently pressing down where you think they are (tracing paper makes this even easier). <S> Poke a hole through the paper at the center of each hole. <S> Place the paper on top of the steel plate, and mark the centers of the holes. <A> The usual methods are: Careful measurement. <S> Really this doesn't need to be that precise, you are not looking for a press-fit between bolts and clearance holes. <S> If it goes wrong, just elongate a hole into a slot using whatever tools you have to hand (e.g. a round file, clapped-out old Bridgeport, ...) - Remember: " <S> A grinder file/filler and paint make me the welder <S> machinist <S> I ain't". <S> Put pointy or painty things into the holes then press the steel plate down in place to mark it. <S> In the dead-tree-carcass world there are things called "dowel pins" used for this kind of thing. <A> The hole spacing is more important than the location of the holes on the metal plate. <S> Therefore, working off of option 1 from @RedGrittyBrick, this is the approach I would take using a wax pencil or marker and a carpenter's square. <S> (1) <S> On one edge of the plate mark a (rough) centerline. <S> (2) Align this edge of the plate to the holes in the concrete, with the centerline mark (roughly) centered between the holes, and carefully mark the center of each hole on the edge of the plate . <S> You should now have 3 marks on the edge of the plate. <S> (3) Carefully transfer the outer marks as two lines across the steel plate using a square. <S> (4) Mark a line perpendicular to these two lines and (roughly) on center on the plate. <S> You should have three lines on the steel plate. <S> The intersection of the three lines marks the center of the two holes to be drilled. <S> Repeat the entire procedure if you have multiple pre-drilled locations. <S> Don't assume that other holes in other places in the concrete are equally spaced or centered. <A> If you have a laserpointer (or 2) "hang them" (they should not move around of course) above if possible so they point down vertically into the center of the hole(s). <S> Put the steelplate in position and the laser marks the spot(s). <A> I like Mark's answer best (create a paper template and mark the holes) <S> but another technique came to mind. <S> Take a straightedge and a construction pencil. <S> - Mark the centerline of the two holes longer than your steel plate. <S> - Mark a line perpendicular, on each hole, wider than your plate.- Put the plate down <S> , use your straightedge and the marks to locate the hole centers. <S> [hmm. <S> similar but different to Stanwoods solution which I did not see at first] <A> Since nobody else has mentioned it, I'll add another option that I've used in the past for spacing holes. <S> Put some paint on the floor around the holes. <S> When you remove the metal plate from the floor, the wet paint will have transferred to the plate but will leave two spots behind where the holes were. <S> Mark <S> those spots, clean up the wet paint, and drill. <S> This also works great for spacing screw holes for handles on cabinets & drawers although I would usually use lipstick for those instead of paint. <A> Do you really need to use the holes drilled in the concrete? <S> If not, pick another pair to be drilled far enough from the original ones. <S> Make the hoes in the metal sheet first, put the sheet in position, secure it from movement and mark the spots or drill through the holes in the concrete. <S> Another point to be taken is how much the holes shall be coaxial. <S> If it must fit perfectly, two extra holes are a good tradeoff. <A> An alternative to Mark's idea would be to use plexiglass. <S> Lay that down and mark either the center of the holes or the holes themselves. <S> Drill through the plexiglass, make sure the holes are aligned properly, and then use that as a template to drill holes in the steel. <S> I would have added this as a comment under his answer <S> but I don't have 50 reputation yet. <A> Pass one bolt through, run a nut down and finger-tighten in place. <S> Pass other bolt through, run a nut down it and tighten until you can slide the bolt easily along the slot. <S> Now you have a gauge. <S> Put your fixed bolt in one hole, slide the other along a slot until the bolt drops into the other hole. <S> Tighten the nut with your fingers. <S> Now the bolts are the correct distance apart. <S> Remove gauge from the concrete and use it indicate where to drill on the steel. <A> Assuming you need the steel to be located precisely, here's an idea: get two bits of threaded rod (or any steel) <S> the same length as the holes + a smidgin, so it pokes up a few mm. <S> Grind one end sharp, trying to get the sharp point in the centre. <S> Put them in the holes and locate your steel plate where it needs to be. <S> Give it a whack with a hammer. <S> Now you have your centres to drill. <A>
|
Tape one side of a piece of paper onto the concrete and trace the holes, then put the steel plate under the piece of paper and center punch the holes onto the steel plate. You need something with a slot in it, the same width as the bolts intended to go in the holes. While the paint is still wet, place the metal plate on the floor. If the misfit can be in order of milimeters you can measure the position with a scale.
|
Are 15A receptacles acceptable on a 20A circuit? I have a 20 amp breaker for my dedicated man cave home theater. It's a rental unit. Recently I had a few loose-fitting plugs on some of the receptacles so I just went downstairs and found the breaker and saw it was 20 amps. So I went and bought 20 amp receptacles. Only a few fit loosely so I chose to only replace the loose ones. After the install I noticed that the other 2 receptacles were in fact 15 amp receptacles. Is it ok to leave it like it is with both 15 and 20 amp receptacles in that room on the 20 amp breaker and if so what's the max amps i can pull through that circuit? I think the 15 amp receptacles are on each end of the rooms circuit and the 20's are in the middle. Will that matter in any way? Right now i am pulling around 11-12 amps from that room but most is on a better quality power strip rated at 15 amps. Thanks in advance for the help. <Q> There is an exception in Code which permits the common 15A receptacle on 20A circuits if there are two or more sockets on the circuit. <S> (NEC 210.21B3). <S> The common double receptacle is two sockets. <S> Mirroring that, there is a UL requirement that all 15A receptacles must have an internal capacity of 20A - <S> only the socket itself is 15A. <S> All the wire in a 20A circuit must be 12 AWG or larger. <S> (Table 310.15(B)(16)). <S> If any of the wire is 14 AWG, then it is a 15A circuit with the wrong breaker on it. <S> 12 AWG wire will not fit in the "backstabs" of 15A receptacles (NEC 110.3b), so if backstabs are in use, a Code violation is definitely present. <S> As a general rule it's best to avoid backstabs altogether, they are the #1 source of arcing failures. <S> (Code won't tell you that, but it does require AFCI breakers to compensate for backstab failures). <S> Assuming the circuit is correctly breakered, then the maximum load is 125% of the continuous loads (i.e. a 12A continuous load counts as 15A) plus 100% of the non-continuous loads. <S> This total should not exceed the breaker rating. <S> (NEC 210.20). <S> A continuous load is expected to be on for 3 hours or more (NEC 100). <S> If all the loads are continuous, a 20A breaker can support 16A, and a 15A breaker can support 12A. Otherwise break out the calculator. <A> 15 amp duplex outlets are allowed on 20 amp circuits, as explained well by this answer: <S> Is using 15 amp components on a 20 amp breaker against code? <S> (I’m not marking this as a duplicate as it only addresses one of your questions.) <S> For the rest, yes, you are limited to drawing 15 amps from each 15 amp outlet, even on a 20 amp circuit. <A> OP Asked: "what's the max amps i can pull through that circuit" <S> The MAX Amps you can pull through that circuit is 20 amps as that is the size of your breaker. <S> Your breaker will trip after you pull 20 AMPS. <S> Op Asked: "I think the 15 amp receptacles are on each end of the rooms circuit and the 20's are in the middle. <S> Will that matter in any way?" <S> NO: <S> Your 20 Amp Receptacles are fine.
|
Of course, if your total draw for all outlets is over 20 amps, you will pop the breaker eventually.
|
Can I split off a 20a with a conduit body? So I am coming out of my subpanel with 1/2 in metal conduit and using metal handy boxes with NEMA 5-20 for all the receptacles on my two indoor branch circuits. One is dedicated for a window unit AC. All wires are 12AWG stranded copper THHN/THWN. The ac receptacle is protected with AFCI and GFCI because part of the unit is outdoors. The other receptacles are protected with AFCI only. So six conductors in all come out. At a t-type conduit body we split off L1/N/G and go up to a handy box near the window. L2/N/G continue on to the wall receptacles. A separate N ang G run to each circuit. I chose to use a separate G for the two circuits in case the G to one circuit somehow comes loose. No splices are planned anywhere in this setup. All receptacles use the better clamp-type screw connectors the hold the wire captive between two plates. Is this safe? Am I violating the fill calculation for the conduit body? I used an online calculator assuming 6 conductors pass thru box, and it yielded 13.5 cubic inches ... really? Is that much room really needed with no splices? <Q> You said metal conduit--1/2" EMT & rigid can have nine #12 thhn/thwn wires max fill per NEC annex C conduit fill. <S> The area of the conduit body would only be needed only if a splice is made in that location, so the derate for more than 3 current-carrying conductors would be the next concern. <S> 4-6 conductors require a 80% derating but the higher ampacity 90 degree table can be used for derating and you still meet code because the derated value is 24 amps. <S> So this is safe for a 20 amp circuit(s). <A> You can't splice in a conduit body. <S> At all. <S> Other than that, conduit bodies don't require thinking about. <S> If the number of wires coming in on each of the three inlets is within limits, then mathematically I don't see how you could overfill the conduit body. <S> Handy-boxes fill <S> very quickly especially if a yoke is involved. <S> What do I mean by "at all"? <S> A conduit body is treated as conduit (with conduit fill rules per 314.16C1) <S> if there are no splices. <S> 314.16C2 says putting a splice in it makes it a box (with box-fill maths) and you're instantly out of space. <S> Teeing off a 2-wire #14 circuit takes 12 cubic inches, already nearly the size of a Handi-Box, and you'll only find that many cube's in vastly oversized conduit. <S> Does running a single #14 circuit in 1" conduit make sense? <S> Absolutely not . <S> Later, somebody will want to add a second circuit to that conduit, and boom, violation. <S> Grounds take space. <S> A nice feature of metal conduit is grounding is intrinsic to the conduit . <S> And box fill. <S> As for box fill (314.16B) -- you're familiar with allocating one "wire unit" for all grounds inclusively? <S> if there aren't any ground wires . <A> It's my understanding (and I could be wrong) <S> that box fill only applies to conduit bodies, if you're making splices. <S> Otherwise, you use conduit fill rules.
|
So if you're just passing through a conduit body, it should have the same fill limitations as the conduit coming into the CB. Splicing is a good application for handy-boxes (the 2"x4" types) but watch your box fill . You don't have to do that You can run a green or bare ground wire if you really want to -- but it is redundant, and that wire counts as a wire for conduit-fill purposes (but not derate).
|
Is it safe to turn on sprinklers in spring and just drain backflow preventer if freeze is pending? I live in Colorado, it's quite dry here and can be quite warm in the middle of winter. If I blow out my sprinklers before the first freeze and don't water again until after the last freeze of the spring my lawn will be dead (edit: not really dead, but damaged, in much worse condition than neighbors). So I drag a hose and sprinkler out several times in late fall/early winter and also again in the spring. In the spring, would it be safe to just turn the system on earlier and just drain the backflow preventer if a freeze is incoming, since the buried lines are less likely to freeze? I'd love a system that didn't require winterization, but don't think that exists. <Q> I can't see a problem as long as you can drain the system. <S> I installed my own sprinklers and the system is pretty unusual because I have very little lawn, mostly shrubs. <S> I do have some low spots that don't drain properly that are a problem. <S> However , as long as there are no undrained areas you should be good. <S> One related problem; I tried to use a hose in cold weather but the water froze before it could get to the end of the hose . <S> This could be a problem for you if you tried to water while the ground was frozen to a depth below your sprinkler system. <A> Yes, this can be a very viable option if the temperatures will not be near or below freezing for very long. <S> This is how I've done it in Texas, where it rarely gets in the 30s, and never had a problem. <S> For one or two nights, the bigger concern is a cold wind rather than temperatures in the upper-20s or low-30s. <S> I, and all my neighbors, would close the shutoff valves at the backflow preventer and drain it, wrap some pipe insulation around the inlet-side PVC pipe (maybe wrap an old towel or something around the backflow preventer itself when a hard freeze was predicted), and that was pretty much it for winterization. <S> Nobody would drain any of the system past the backflow preventer, as that tends to mostly drain on it's own. <S> Just make sure to wrap any exposed pipes with insulation, and possibly wrap the backflow preventer as well. <S> Make sure you've had at least a few warm days (and nights) before turning the irrigation on for the first time, too. <S> Some notes, as installations may differ between areas. <S> Irrigation systems in my area are 3/4" or 1" schedule 40 PVC, typically buried about 8-12" down. <S> If your installation differs dramatically from this, adjust accordingly <A> Depending on where you are in Colorado water is not abundant. <S> You could forego watering in the winter. <S> Our lot medium sized suburban lot (10,000 sq ft) in Dallas TX is a xeriscape. <S> We use less than half the water we would use if we had the amount of turfgrass which is common in our neighborhood. <S> We do have a small amount of St Augustine in the front on both sides to blend in with the neighbors. <S> This afternoon I had to put up with seemingly interminable leaf blower racket from the neighbors' yard crew mowing and blowing across the alley. <S> 70 ft away the sound was deafening. <S> Around here the standard is to mow weekly or at least biweekly, even during the winter! <S> We host a family of screech owls in a box in a tree in a back corner of the lot right where the outrageous leaf blowing was going on. <S> It bothers me no end that people have this insane compulsion for leaf blowing and will tolerate 100+ <S> db <S> because . . . ?! <S> One of the pair of screech owls on a day with no leaf blowing
|
As long as the temperature during the day is above freezing, and you're not having multiple nights of freezing temperatures in a row, you shouldn't have a problem with your plan.
|
Using just power from ethernet cable for security camera? I'm trying to install security cameras around my house. My problem comes when I try to find power for the locations I want to monitor. I have one camera mounted already, but it is 25 feet away from the nearest outdoor outlet. I was just going to use an extension cord to run power closer, but heard that this is not a safe thing to do. The camera is the Zmodo 720p outdoor ( https://www.zmodo.com/720p-outdoor-wifi-camera/ ). It comes with a 5V 1A adapter with a micro usb on the end to power the camera since data is sent over wifi. I was thinking of using a usb extension, but found out that power can only travel about 16 feet over usb. That leaves my last option which is POE. I hear most people use it for both power and data, but I only want to use it for power. Would it be possible to get a POE switch, plug it in to the outside outlet, and run ethernet cables to each of the cameras without worrying about data? Can power travel 25 feet over ethernet? Is there any better way to get 5V to the camera? Thanks <Q> I don't believe you need to spend the big bucks for POE, as your requirements are straightforward. <S> Even though you are running only 5V, to reduce voltage drop, consider to run something as large as 16 gauge wire to the pigtail. <S> Ensure that you provide correct polarity on the added wiring, of course. <A> this is how PoE is usually used (picture below) the PoE injector feeds around 50VDC into the cable in your case you could also use the ethernet cable to carry power connect a 12V power supply at one end use an automobile USB charger adapter at the other end to power the camera <A> Cat 5 cable will have 4 twisted pairs. <S> Two are used for data and the other two for other things. <S> I used one pair for positive and one pair for neg. <S> I simply cut the power cable and spliced in the source somewhere near the router and spliced in the termination end right at the camera. <S> So all that ran to the camera was the cat 5 cable. <S> I used zoneminder for 4 camera this way. <S> Ghetto POE, but it works.
|
If you would install CATx cable for POE, you can easily enough install a pair of wires and add a micro usb pigtail at the camera end. I've done this before with Dlink cameras.
|
How can I jack a steel post out of the ground? Following on from this and this question I've got to the point where I am trying to "jack" a pole out of the ground. I had a spare 3/4" bolt that I thought would be strong enough but unfortunately it bent (see image). My question: What commonly available (i.e. I can buy it from one of Home Depot or Lowes) 10" x 3/4" rod can I get that will work here? Or what else would you suggest to achieve this goal? <Q> I would use a chain and make sure it is bolted to the post so that the link is touching the post, ( <S> both sides ) I.E. threaded bolt through the link with a nut and washer holding it tight to the post. <S> Do this on both sides of the post <S> so you create a loop for the jack to pull up on. <S> You may want to rent a hydraulic post puller . <A> I can see that this tennis post is becoming a serious PITA. <S> Let's try to make the job easier rather than pull harder. <S> Are you sure you are above the inner rod that is concreted into the ground? <S> Would it get any easier if you used an angle grinder to cleanly sever the outer pole from the bottom surface <S> (I know it's still rusted out inside). <S> If we must pull harder. <S> The hardware store has a selection of metal rods but a hardened steel bolt would seem like a good choice. <S> Another thought is to get more mechanical advantage. <S> Put in a new bolt, thread over it with a square cylinder. <S> Fix the ends with washers/nuts. <S> Use washers on the inside of the cylinder so it doesn't puncture the metal rod. <S> The assembly will be harder to bend when you jack it. <S> Or if you can find a good triangular brace (like a joist hanger) mount this upside down and jack on it. <A> Break the slab and start digging. <A> Using a heavy duty chain and a lifting hook: <S> Drill a hole big enough to fit the hook in the pole, near the ground. <S> Or if you have access to a welder, weld a heavy duty ring or hook to the pole. <S> Or this time, the bolt could still work, as you can fit the hook very close to the pole, and you will work against the shear strength of the ¾" bolt (pretty high) rather than its resistance to bending (bad). <S> Lay the chain on top of a wheel, such as an old car tire, that is standing next to the pole. <S> The chain should start vertically, then turn on the wheel and continue horizontally, away from the pole. <S> The tire will provide leverage to pull the pole out. <S> Attach the other end of the chain to a truck or to a heavy duty winch attached to something heavy. <S> Pull on the chain with the truck or winch. <S> Go slowly with the truck, as you do not want the chain to snap or the hook to yield. <S> If the pole will not budge, then it is probably set in concrete, or with anchors, as commentator Jim Stewart said, and you should dig around or just cut the pole and bury the stub. <A> If you can bend 1/2" angle iron while doing that, then you shouldn't be doing that. <A> Try steel pipe , can you drill out the hole for 1/2 NPS ? <S> , 3/4 NPS ? <S> , 1" NPS? . <S> Also slide a bolt inside a pipe .High <S> strength bolts like automotive grade 5 , or any left-over head bolts ( likely Gr 5 or stronger) ; all these are more expensive than pipe.
|
You could go to a machinist supply and describe what you want and get a steel rod with more strength.
|
Should I replace my trunk-and-branch setup with a PEX manifold? My house is plumbed using PEX trunk-and-branch, with the main 3/4 line coming in, splitting off to 3/4" to the hot water tank, and then a 1/2" trunk that all the other branch supplies tee off from. Hot water is the same, with a 3/4" line coming from the tank and splitting to two 1/2" lines. The pressure changes when you are using a faucet or in the shower are very noticeable as other fixtures are used, particularly with the washing machine. I need to do a couple of changes anyway (including adding an outside tap), am both experienced with and have all the tools for PEX, and don't mind spending a couple hundred dollars on this. How much of a difference will I notice if I: Replace the 1/2 "trunk" lines with 3/4" Replace the 1/2" trunk lines with a PEX manifold I'm just looking for someone's experience/anecdotal evidence that it would not be a complete waste of time/money to do this. <Q> If you increase the diameter of the branch you also increase the time it takes for you to get hot water. <S> This also wastes heat as the branch lines will have hot/cold water and heat or cool the wall spaces - eventually heating or cooling your house. <S> I like the manifold arrangement but one quick thing to try would be to just plumb the washing machine into the end of the branch line. <S> I this <S> this would allow the other fixtures to have pressure preference over it. <S> The other thing I'd do is eliminate the crazy 90s if you are redoing a section. <S> The plumbing might look neat <S> but you loose significant flow when you make sharp turns. <S> Really the best way is spaghetti with gradual bends. <A> PEX is a dimensionally equivalent product. <S> That means the OD outside diameter is equivalent to the OD of copper. <S> The ID inside diameter is less than the ID of copper. <S> The PEX fittings fit inside the PEX tubing acting as flow restriction and thus volume of water. <S> Normally a 1/2" copper line will feed three shower heads or three faucets with a static line pressure of about 50 psi. <S> You state problems with water pressure due to plumbing. <S> Some people experience extreme variations in shower hot water temperature and equate it to a water pressure problem. <S> It is normal to have hot water temperature variations due to more than one person living in a home. <S> There are several work arounds for this problem. <S> Both in good working order should reduce hot water temperature variations. <A> Personally I would just live with the trunk and branch. <A> If the manifold cost is not exorbitant, I would definitely go with your plan. <S> I can hardly believe that anyone would use a 1/2" line for a trunk. <S> I'd be tempted to use a 1" trunk if you have the crimp tool or can borrow one--especially to feed the manifolds (and your incoming line is 1" or larger).
|
In my climate I also like to get ground temperature water so having large branch lines increases the amount of water I have to dump before I get rid of the water in the pipe from the supply entrance to my faucet. Install a hot water recirculating system and/ or install anti scalding shower valves. Do not think that the rules of thumb for copper are equivalent for PEX. It will be very expensive to replumb the house.
|
What is the proper method to install a "close" metal pipe nipple? A close pipe nipple is designed so that when it is installed there is very little or no gap between the two fittings which attach to either end. What is the proper method to install one of these? Could be black iron, brass, etc. Here are the issues I wonder about: When attaching the nipple to the first fitting, it seems you would have to grip the nipple by the threads with a pipe wrench. This may cause damage. Perhaps a protective padding is used? When attaching the second fitting, how to ensure the nipple is inserted more or less evenly? The insertion torque may continue to tighten it into the first fitting which would be hard to prevent or even observe. Should you just tighten both fittings simultaneously? Example of a close nipple: <Q> Installing the close nipple is done by starting the nipple into the first fitting by hand. <S> Then start the second fitting. <S> Make sure that the suitable teflon pipe thread tape is installed on both ends of the close nipple. <S> Then use an appropriate wrench on the second fitting to tighten the joints. <S> Note that the threads on a nipple like this should have a diameter taper on each end. <S> This causes the fitting to get progressively tighter as each end is screwed into its mating part. <S> When tightening the two joints simultaneously the two tapered joints will turn till one gets tighter than the other. <S> At that point the looser one will then tighten up till it catches up and becomes similar tight to the other joint. <S> Eventually you will achieve the necessary thread engagement with each end of the nipple. <A> You can use an internal pipe wrench to tighten the close or a short tapered nipple into the first fitting, then screw on the second fitting at the other end. <S> Nipples that are not full thread can leak just as easily as full thread. <S> There is always a bit of threaded portion the is not threaded all the way into the fitting as they are tapered and not designed to be fully threaded into the fitting. <A> All the negative thoughts are why "all thread nipples" or "close nipples" as they are sometimes called are banned by certain industries. <S> since there is no actual plain, not threaded pipe in the center of the fitting, you do not know how much pipe material is inserted into either fitting making it a potential danger. <S> Natural gas suppliers in my area of the country will not approve a gas supply if an "all thread nipple" is used. <S> Due to their make up they will be the first fitting to cause a leak. <S> So, to answer yiur question, I never used them and neither should you. <S> There is always an alternative. <A> The question does seem to understand that using a wrench on a nipple could be wrong, which is an understatement. <S> in re: "nipples with no plain pipe segment are bad/prohibited" etc. <S> This nonsense is for the convenience of know-nothing inspectors, and doesn't actually prevent the danger it seeks to ameliorate. <S> All nipples, pipe, and fittings except for the type called "rigid conduit" which is for electrical use only, are threaded with a "tapered" thread. <S> The threads are conically tapered for a cone-in-cone wedge fit that becomes progressively tighter. <S> There is no danger of one side sinking into the fitting and the other side remaining with just a couple of turns of engagement. <S> It requires only minimal competence to distinguish between a connection make with a tapered thread and a connection made with a non-tapered aka "running" thread. <S> The expectation that inspectors and workmen are unable to distinguish between the says as much as needs to be said. <S> [NB: <S> rigid electrical conduit look like schedule 40 galvanized iron (actually its been steel for more than a century) <S> pipe and fittings may be made using a non-tapered thread. <S> electrical conduit joints aren't required to seal against pressure, and generally don't.] <S> Thread sealant generally mean using a good "pipe dope" e.g. Rectorseal <S> No 5. <S> Teflon tape is less messy to use but much more likely to produce a leaky joint. <S> The tape must remain in place well enough to undergo "plastic flow" deforming itself to fill the non-conforming parts of the joint. <S> It always shreds and stays at the leading edge of the pipe to some extent. <S> Never use Teflon tape for fuel oil lines, the shredicles can (will) plug up the fuel oil pump and nozzle strainer. <S> Specialty thread sealant products for specific fluids like liquid fuels and refrigerants often also seal water and natural gas, (see product labeling) . <S> Their use is uncommon because of their high cost. <S> Be certain the product is safety agency listed for the intended use when applicable.
|
The correct installation technique for a close nipple is to apply thread sealant and then thread the nipple into both fittings by hand by 2 or more turn before tightening using wrenches on the fittings, never on the nipple.
|
Why does my furnace turn off after a few minutes, then re-ignite? I have a Goodman 80% furnace in my barn dated 1999 it runs for about 5-10 minutes then flame kicks off for about 2 minutes and re-lights. It does not go into lockout mode (keeps cycling this way). When t-stat reaches called for temp furnace will shut down til called for again. I have replaced the limit switch already. Flame sensor would not be the problem because it heats for 5-10 minutes at a time, however I did clean it with scotchbrite pad to rule out that possibility. I am using the bottom of furnace for cold air and no filter. Furnace is hanging 42"above floor. <Q> The control board may have an led that flashes a problem indicator. <S> My Goodman 92% lit up and shutdown. <S> The led flashed "not normal". <S> Replacing board fixed the problem. <S> I used an after market equivalent that I was able to find by cross-referencing p/n. <A> It's entirely possible that nothing is wrong with your furnace and this is normal. <S> It might be heating up and then kicking off when the high limit is reached and turns back on after it circulates air and cools down a bit. <A> I had a similar problem with my furnace, which was a newer more efficient furnace so not sure it applies in your situation. <S> I did a lot of trouble shooting and it ended up being the condensation in the mouth of the tube that goes to the pressure switch. <S> In my situation I could make it cycle by momentarily (approx 1-5 seconds) pinching the pressure switch tube, and the furnace would restart but not lockout. <S> After I worked out which pressure switch was having the problem, one option was to drill out the plastic a little bigger so that the condensation wouldn’t effect it as much. <S> However I didn’t want to do anything permanent, so I experimented with putting a cut down bit of plastic straw into where the pressure switch tubing came out of the furnace, to make like a cap inside so any drips of condensation couldn’t block the entrance to the pressure switch tube momentarily. <S> It has worked perfectly for 2 years since adding the piece of plastic straw. <S> It’s a little hard to explain so feel free to ask questions if you think you might have a similar situation. <A> Some plagiarism from the linked article there.. <S> .. <S> signs that your flame sensor is bad include: Gas burners light but then go out after 3-4 seconds <S> Visible soot is covering the tip of the flame sensor <S> The white porcelain on your flame sensor is broken or cracked <S> Where is my furnace’s flame sensor and how does it work ? <S> Your furnace’s flame sensor is a short, thin metallic rod that’s either straight or slightly bent and sits inside your gas burner assembly. <S> Its sole job is to sense whether the gas burners light to create a fire or not. <S> If you're feeling adventurous you can try to clean the flame sensor yourself . <S> I recently did this for the first time and my furnace wasn't too challenging. <S> I recommend Googling your furnace's make/model to look for images of the flame sensor, or videos of people servicing your existing model. <S> In my case, I have a "Tempstar" furnace, but its internals are all "Honeywell" A few IMPORTANT notes, though: 1) <S> Make sure you throw the furnace breaker before servicing it . <S> 2) <S> Your igniter element and flame sensor element (particularly the igniter from what I've read) are sensitive to the oils in your skin , and you can shorten their life inadvertently by touching them. <S> Consider wearing some latex gloves if you have a pair. <S> 3) <S> You'll want to clean the flame sensor element with something relativly soft (i.e. NOT sandpaper). <S> In one video I watched, the person used emory cloth, which is probably perfect. <S> I used a new, everyday, green, kitchen scouring pad . <S> Go slowly and gently. <S> Honorable mention: <S> Depending on your furnace, you might want to pick up a spare igniter and flame sensor to keep on hand if these are not too cost prohibitive, as it can be hard to find them when you need them on a Friday night or a Saturday.
|
It's possible that your flame sensor needs to be cleaned or is on the outs. Some of the wiring might be exposed behind the cowlings and it has the potential to zap you.
|
When to use electrical tape rather than wire nuts? I was always under the impression that wire nuts created a better electrical connection than using electrical tape. I'm still under this impression and I think it is correct. However, I was taking apart a junction box in my basement last night and found a connection that piqued my interest. This is older wiring, so I was a little bit worried that maybe it was aluminum wiring, but it looks like it is copper. However I am unsure why there would be the coating /solvent / solder on here. The whole thing was then wrapped up in electrical tape. Is there a reason that this wasn't connected using a wire nut? It's not aluminum wiring, right? <Q> I tend to agree with the comments <S> This is an inline splice <S> Whomever did this was covering solder <S> So, having said that... Electrical tape is good for insulating wire . <S> It cannot hold wires together . <S> Wires can get warmer when in use, which could weaken or break the solder. <S> Wire nuts involves twisting the wires together, meaning the wires hold themselves in position, The nut insulates the top and helps (somewhat) stop movement. <S> I would only use electrical tape on a wire that has had its insulation damaged. <A> This is dodgy work <S> Your house may have a lot of it. <S> So he peeled back some insulation, and lacking any other way to attach the wires, spiraled them around and soldered them. <S> This would be legal in Knob-n-Tube wiring in 1924. <S> However in that case the 1924 person soldering it would have soldered 100 connections a day, and would've rolled off yet another perfect one. <S> This was a one-off done by a person with no experience soldering mains sized wires, not even the right soldering iron! <S> The wire is also weird. <S> Most house wiring is done with cable, i.e. NM (Romex) which has no markings on the conductors. <S> Some wiring is done with single wire (THHN/THWN-2) <S> but you can't do that loose <S> , it's required to be run in raceway or conduit, i.e. junction boxes. <S> Also the coating is incorrect for THHN and the blotchy red markings don't resemble THHN. <S> It looks more like low voltage/automotive wire. <S> Honestly given the wire, and the wiring methods, and the background, this resembles to me feeder wiring on large model railroads, i.e. that run underneath the benchwork. <S> For that application, this would be acceptable. <S> If this is an "identify this wiring" question, final answer. <S> Soldered connections, properly First <S> , a proper job is done of soldering it, which wasn't done here. <S> Then, there's a "best practice" with electrical tape which is essentially a lost art. <S> It involves double-layering vinyl electrical tape with the old cloth "friction tape" (which I can't really describe if you don't know what it is). <S> Properly done, it's a masterpiece, like a served guy wire connection. <S> You didn't state which wiring method was in use in this location, so <S> I can't comment on whether solder is legal with this wiring method. <A> This looks disgusting. <S> What worries me is why there is so little solder there. <S> It could be whoever did this was trying to save on solder, but that would be weird, as it isn't that expensive. <S> Clue: <S> the insulation on the wire at the left side of the picture is burned. <S> When doing this kind of soldering, you need a high-power iron (like >100W soldering pistol) which will quickly heat the wire and allow you to do the job without burning the insulation too much. <S> It might melt just a little bit... but this one looks like it's been barbecued to a crisp. <S> This looks like someone had an underpowered soldering iron and left it there for a looooong time (while the insulation started to burn) until he finally could manage to melt a little bit of solder, then called it a day. <S> It's a bit counter-intuitive but <S> a powerful soldering iron will allow you to do a good solder before the heat travels too far into the wire and burns the insulation. <S> I'd be worried about a cold solder joint, which may crack or turn into a loose contact. <S> I was always under the impression that wire nuts created a better electrical connection than using electrical tape. <S> Besides solder, if you want a good connection you need something that presses both conductors together with a very strong force. <S> A wire nut does this, in fact the metal "helix" inside applies so much force <S> it's similar to a crimp. <S> When you screw it on the wires it will bite into them and hold them together. <S> Tape around wire is only insulation in the best case, after a few years <S> when the adhesive degrades it's more like decoration, it doesn't help the contact in any way whatsoever. <S> It's not aluminum wiring, right? <S> No, it's copper. <S> Doesn't change the fact this is crap. <S> If you want to redo it, don't solder unless you know what you're doing and have proper tools. <S> Also the wire looks very oxidized which won't help. <S> I'd just cut it off, clean it up and put a legal connector (wire nut or wago).
|
In this case, the solder is holding the wires, but I really wouldn't trust solder for electrical wires. What happened here is the inline wire was pre-existing, and the hack decided to add 3 wires to it. If this is your first time laying eyes on electrical work, don't normalize it . The metal "helix" inside is like a self-tapping nut.
|
Trouble identifying this tool G’day, I recently started a new job, and have come across in the toolbox this set of “pliers”. I’ve never seen these before, and I can’t find them anywhere online. Can someone tell me what they are and what they’re used for? Thanks! <Q> Based on the previous answers and a reverse image lookup which turned out to be pretty accurate. <S> These are a few features listed from an online store detailing the tool: Cut and crimp your plastic spiral coil in one clip. <S> Comfortable Plastic Grip for easy crimping. <S> Pliers utilize a twin metal spring design to bounce back. <S> The mechanism retracts after the pliers cut and crimp actions are complete. <S> A Red dot marks the orientation for the proper direction to cut and crimp. <S> To be honest with you, I don't exactly know why you would need a special tool for this. <S> Can I link video links? <S> Here's one in action: <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtClAvRoQUU <S> And here's a close-up image of the " desired " end result which was produced by a coil crimping machine! <S> Added this to my answer because you can really see the details of the cut & crimp. <A> There are similar tools that are used to create the ruffled end of a circular stove pipe or vent pipe. <S> When you cut off the end of a standard metal vent pipe that was factory made you will end up with a piece that does not have the ruffle crimps and you may need to make some. <S> Here is what I refer to: <S> The ruffle crimps on the end of a vent pipe or fitting make the overall outside diameter of the pipe slightly smaller so that it can fit inside of the next piece of straight pipe. <S> The ruffled end crimps in a factory are made on a large machine that has rollers that act kind of like gears. <S> However out on a job site a hand tool is much more convenient in the few odd cases where ready made parts need to be cut and modified. <S> Here is a picture of one of these hand tools. <S> And finally here is one shown in use: The pictured hand ruffle crimping tool has multiple jaw sections which makes it easier to step from crimp to crimp around the pipe to get a consistent spacing. <S> Your tool only has one crimp jaw and may be designed for a similar but different application than I have shown here. <S> However it may give some ideas as to the actual function of the tool you pictured. <A> The shape of the tool lacks the beveled edges of the downspout crimpers, while the hole near the pivot of the tool implies a wire forming type of use. <S> I was able to locate ligature forming pliers but they have a couple of disparities to the tool shown and are smaller, more refined (considering they are used for dental work). <S> I believe this is a custom or specific wire forming pliers. <S> My first thought was a z-bend tool, for radio control aircraft linkage, but the entry angle is different by 90° from that type of tool. <S> I found no matching photos to support my reference, other than many variations of wire forming tools that are close in design to this one.
|
I was able to identify these as: " COIL CRIMPING PLIERS "
|
How can I reliably determine whether a wall is load-bearing? I remodeling my kitchen and opened up the entrance to kitchen to be more “open concept”. An inspector has asked me to determine if the wall is a load bearing wall. I need to “verify” but not sure what they mean. Do I verify myself? Ask an engineer for proof that it is or isn’t? I’m not sure. Here’s a picture of what I’m talking about. I removed the plaster. And accidentally removed some 2X4’s in the picture below but not everything. I believe it’s called a “pony wall” but not sure. <Q> I would try calling the inspector and ask him what he wants as far as verification. <S> It seems like he would want verification that it is NOT load bearing. <S> Did he see the wall after you took the drywall off? <S> If he looked at it after the drywall is off and saw the joist ends, he should know whether it is okay or not. <A> If you leave the wall as it was (i.e. put back those 2x4s!) <S> I doubt the inspector will need anything verifying. <S> If you want to modify or remove the wall he would want verification that it is not load bearing. <S> Your comment that the dining room joists sit on this wall prove that it is load bearing. <S> Your options are therefore: <S> Reinstate <S> the wall (i.e. put back those 2x4s!) <S> Design a replacement for the wall (i.e. something that will support the dining room joists without putting columns in the middle of your open space). <S> Depending on jurisdiction and/or your competence you may need a structural engineer to do the design. <A> I think you have two viable options to demonstrate to the inspector that your wall is not load-bearing: <S> Open the area as required or access it from above. <S> Take photographs if appropriate and describe the structure in writing, including the top-to-bottom load transfer path of any supported components. <S> Hire a professional. <S> This could be an architect or engineer or simply someone willing to establish the fact in writing through their professional credentials, such as a contractor. <S> What's acceptable to the inspector depends on the inspector.
|
Investigate and provide evidence yourself.
|
Can I disconnect a dishwasher from a GFI and leave the circuit otherwise intact? my dishwasher is wired into a GFI outlet under my sink. Can I remove the wires that go to the dishwasher and leave the other wires intact to use the GFI outlet ? <Q> So your Dish washer is wired through as a load or wired in parallel and down line from the GFCI ? <S> Just curious your reason why you want to do this? <S> Perhaps there might be another issue you have and your resolution might need some additional information so you can accomplish all your goals correctly ? <S> Now after those questions the answers based on just disconnecting the washer. <S> Yes you can un-wire <S> the dish washer from the GFCI as long as nothing unusual was done in the initial wiring. <S> In other words the GFCI must be up-line from the dish washer as one would expect in a proper installation. <S> If the installation was not proper you can still do what you want, but will need to rework your wiring to the GFCI. <A> Turn the power off to the branch circuit supplying the GFCI and dishwasher. <S> I'm including a picture I found that shows how the typical GFCI is wired. <S> Notice that there is a line side and load side. <S> Anything that is connected to the line side will not be protected by the GFCI, it is just a feed through. <S> Everything plugged into the face of the GFCI, and everything connected to the load side terminals will be protected by the GFCI. <S> ( http://www.electriciansmesaaz.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/How-To-Wire-A-GFCI-Outlet.png ) <A> As to the "why" question; At one point it was acceptable to have the one GFCI outlet under the sink that would feed the dishwasher that was hard wired to it on the load side, plus have an outlet for a garbage disposal, under the theory that one would not run both at the same time.
|
Locate remove the dishwasher wiring from the GFCI.
|
How to finish jagged edge of kitchen subway tile? Did our own backsplash tiling in the kitchen, and didn't realize until we were finished that the cap/trim/edging goes UNDER the tile. Not on top. So now we've got an ugly looking edge to the tile (our cuts weren't very clean — we assumed we would cover them after). Pics attached. Ideas for how we can hide this? DIY hacks and/or product names/ideas are welcome! <Q> I had a similar situation. <S> I purchased some outside corner moulding, similar to this: and used that on the edge. <S> I had to run it down the table saw to rip it to the correct depth. <S> I used an all purpose adhesive to attach it, and then finished the edges with caulk. <A> If you go to a large tile store you should be able to find an edge similar to this in ceramic. <A> The only way to do it right is to pop those ten tiles and just redo it. <S> I say this based on 19 years' experience. <S> You won't regret it in the end. <S> The thing about going over the tile with a wood or ceramic molding is that there is no give, and the tiles are not sitting even. <S> The molding will sit on the highest tile and you will have gaps (blacklining) in the lower one. <S> Yes, you can caulk it <S> but then you are creating a lip, and I promise you something will catch/hook/snag someday; you'll regret it's there. <S> I recommend you pop the tiles, clean it up, and ready them to install. <S> Get out your tape and level and set the schluter first. <S> Use adhesive (mastic I assume), double-sided tape, or -- in a pinch -- nails with very flat heads to secure the schluter. <S> Cut the tile into the schluter. <S> Dry set the tile first. <S> just to make sure they are cut properly, then back butter the tile -- avoiding a mess if you have to re-cut. <S> If you are a little tight just use a file, sanding paper, or even a concrete step to take off a 16th. <S> Alternatively, you can chalk a line or use a straight edge to mark where the tile should end. <S> Don't worry about the schluter until you are done with the tiles. <S> Just concentrate on hitting the line. <S> Now when your tile is finished slip the schluter underneath the tile. <S> Press firmly on the tile (grout floats are great way to apply even pressure), wiping away access adhesive until the tile are flush with the schluter. <S> Or a quick method. <S> Now I've done this and have found its better to take the extra time, unless you have a real steady hand. <S> You can mark a straight line and use an angle grinder to cut a straight line and install a border tile. <S> That way it is at least flush with the rest. <S> ** <S> If you mist the tile and the angle grinder wheel you will cut down on friction and dust. <A> You could use an angle grinder to clean up the edge a bit, then nail wood 1/4 round trim along there. <S> Use paintable caulk to hide the seam, then paint with high gloss to match (or complement/contrast) the tile. <A> Bite the bullet and pop off that last column of tiles. <S> It looks like its only 11 tiles. <S> It'll take just a few hours <S> and you'll be so much happier if you re-do it right. <S> Any kind of band-aid will always look like a band-aid and you will never be happy with it. <A> Made the same mistake on my shower. <S> I put a narrow furring strip the thickness of the tile, and about 3/4" wide. <S> Attached that to the wall. <S> This gave me an ugly variable width gap between the strip and the tile ends. <S> I mixed up a small batch of grout and filled this. <S> Don't worry about colour matching. <S> It will be covered. <S> Picked up a 1.25" wide seam sealer strip at Home Depot. <S> These are used for junctions between different kinds of lino or vinyl. <S> Put a generous bead of caulk on top of the ground, and fastened the sealer strip to the furring strip.
|
When you are setting the tile, make sure there is a little extra glue on the edge of the tile where your end point (line) is.
|
Mismatched baseboards tie in My daughter and son-in-law did a kitchen renovation, but there is some finish work still to do. The pic says it all: As you can see the kitchen base board is thicker and has a different profile from the thinner base board in the living room. Also, there is a step down from the kitchen to the living room and I don't think both base boards are at the same height. (not my pic) Other then replacing the living room baseboard, what other options are there to make it look nice? The only thing I can think of is return the ends and leave it at that. <Q> It is called a miter drop. <S> Check Instagram or the web or a good trim carpentry book. <S> It's not as complex as it looks <S> and it is the right way to do it. <S> The person whose image this is has many versions shown on his page including wrapping around a corner and is an amazing carpenter. <A> Consider attaching a smooth board, like a <S> 1 X 6 ripped to the correct width, from top to bottom of the opening. <S> Both baseboards could then just end into it, and instead of the corner molding that currently finishes your wall ends you would just caulk and paint where the paneling meets the 1 X 6 or trim it with 1/4 round molding. <A> The simple fix would be to set a piece of base at an angle to connect both tops. <S> and notch the bottom edge to go over the difference in the floor. <S> The difference in thickness does not look to be that much different to be a concern, it will just need the protruding edge sanded flush and painted, done it many times with material 1/8" thicker than the other. <S> Another way is to remove the shortest piece of base on the high floor side and rip it so it is not as high to get the tops level with each other. <S> Sometimes the difference is so great from one piece of base on one side of a door to the next piece on the other side of the door, (this is where I have made the transition in most of my cases) <S> reduce it a slight bit less in the same room <S> so the difference is not so noticeable right off. <S> This may have not been the best way to explain it. <S> I have also used taller base to do the same thing. <S> The way I would fix this situation is a takeoff on Jimmy's answer, but taking it to a different finish. <S> Remove the corner molding all around the opening, measure the width of the wall from finish wall to finish wall, (1X6 may do it, most walls are 4 1/2"-5" wide) to get the width a new jamb. <S> Rip the material to fit the width of the wall to reline the the opening in 1X material, notching the bottom of the new jamb to step down over the different levels of floor, and if needed cutting the transition strip back 1/4" more to make room for the 1X material. <S> After that is set, get door casing and trim out both sides of the wall, cutting the base shorter to allow the base to finish at the outside edge new applied casing which will allow the base to terminate in a place that will not be visible at the opening.
|
The profiles at the top are pretty close to being the same profile and can be "faired in" together by a little finesse by sanding.
|
Does a bathtub spout with a diverter have to be on the same side as the valve, or can I move it over to the side of the tub? I'm putting in a shower/tub unit and we want to have the tub spout on the side of the tub in the middle. The valve unit will be in the usual place on the end of the tub, with the shower head above it. The diverter is in the tub spout. Will this work, or would it screw up the diverter if we put it on the side? <Q> A normal tub diverter valve works because when the tub spout is open, it requires less force for the water to come out of the spout than it does for water to get pushed up to the shower head. <S> The water takes the path of least resistance. <S> When the tub spout diverter is closed, the water is naturally forced up the pipe to the shower head. <S> The reason the instructions say to only use one elbow and to limit the distance is to reduce the resistance of the water flowing out of the spout. <S> If the plumbing to the spout is too complex and provides too much resistance, you could have some water get pushed up to the shower head no matter what. <S> So, this plan might work, or there might just be too much resistance in the pipe snaking around the tub to the other side. <S> It's hard to say for sure. <S> If the valve is installed lower, I think you chances are better. <S> Also the tub spout pipe will have to go around the tub and not over it because water would certainly flow out of the head all the time if you did that. <S> Try to use only 3-4 fittings on the pipe - don't make any extra bends. <S> I looked around a little and found this forum post where a plumber used PEX pipe and three elbows even with the tub spout on the same side. <S> That was enough to make water dribble out of the shower head. <S> PEX could have made this problem worse because the fittings don't have a full 1/2" inside diameter <S> so they restrict flow more than copper would. <S> Still, doesn't look good for your plan since you'd also have a minimum of 3 elbows (with PEX, 4 elbows using copper). <A> Since you have the wall open you should consider replacing the shower/tub valve assembly to include the diverter in the valve assembly instead of in the spout. <S> (Seems like from something you said that you are already familiar with). <S> I also think you should think really hard about moving the spout along the center of the long side of the tub. <S> That is a nasty accident or injury waiting to happen. <A> The water pipe would have to go through a number of studs. <S> What functionality would this give you? <S> Also there can be electrical wiring in the long wall of the tub (to serve receptacles on the other side of the wall from the tub). <S> It may not be best practice to have wiring in the vicinity of water pipes for a tub/shower, at least copper pipes.
|
From a plumbing standpoint it might work, but it would be very unusual.
|
How do I rip vinyl plank flooring? I'm installing CoreTec One vinyl plank flooring and I've had trouble finding directions on how to rip it to width. Most of the "vinyl plank" installation guides I've found are for thinner, more flexible product which can be scored and snapped. I've seen suggestions that one can use a circular saw but I can imagine the vinyl might gum up my table saw. If not, that seems dead simple. <Q> In your position, I'd try a fine toothed blade in a table saw for cutting the vinyl planks. <S> As long as the material keeps moving past the blade, I wouldn't expect a problematic amount of melting/gumming. <A> It cuts just like wood or MDF. <S> I just installed a vinyl plank floor <S> and I was able to do cross cuts by snapping and scoring, cut around door jams using a jigsaw and rip it to length on the table saw. <S> Some brands snap more easily than others, I have had to use a miter saw for a whole floor instead of the score and snap method. <S> If a crosscut was too near the end of the plank I did have to use a miter saw. <S> It produces little vinyl chips kind a like sawdust but a little bigger and they can be vacuumed up easily. <A> This is just my opinion, but I think it's hard to score and snap 4 feet of any rigid material. <S> So I used a table saw.
|
I recently did some rip cuts on luxury vinyl plank and just used a table saw. The table saw was not damaged after use, but the vinyl plank leaves a ton of dust behind that looks like rubber eraser dust, which I had to shop vac. A lot of people say to score and snap but every time I watch a how-to video, they will only score and snap the short way. I also don't trust my hands to create a good, straight line.
|
How do I mount a power strip to the smooth metal support structure of a banquet table? I bought a heavy-duty power strip from Walmart which I would like to mount to the metal support structure of a banquet table. This is the power strip: https://www.walmart.com/ip/49557487 This is the banquet table: https://www.staples.com/product_1321933 There is a smooth metal surface along the under edge of the table to which adds mechanical support. It is roughly the same height as the power strip is wide and is a perfect place to hide the strip to be used for connecting a number of electronics. The problem I have is that I don't know how to go about securing the strip. I tried 3M Scotch 30lb mounting tape: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203405976 This worked OK for a while but the weight of the strip itself caused it to tilt over time until it finally detached from the adhesive. The adhesive held just fine to the table but was weak at bonding with the plastic of the strip. The back of the strip has what appear to be two mounting holes in the form of a cross (one on each end) which I believe is meant for mounting: I have no problem punching a hole in the metal frame to mount this but I don't know what tool would be required to perform this task. The metal appears to be 1/4" steel and has a lip on the bottom which would prevent me from using some kind of punch which must clamp flush with a piece of sheet metal. What is the proper way to go about mounting this strip so that it is secure and won't fall off again but will allow removal for later transportation. Note that removal isn't as important but the strip does have a fuse and it would be useful to be able to easily swap it out if it does break at some point in the future. <Q> Regardess of the intent of the cross, the metal endcap of the power strip has a hole shaped like a gourd (or like a male chicken and globes, if you have a dirty mind). <S> That is designed to be used with a screw mounting. <S> The screw should be chosen so the head just fits through the larger diameter, but only the shaft fits in the slot. <S> Slide <S> the screw head theough the hole, slide it down into the slot, then tighten the screw tight <S> so it can't move. <S> Now only a firm sideward pull will dislodge it. <S> You can stop that by a cleverly placed additional screw. <S> If your steel is even 1/16", I would consider drilling and tapping the hole for the screw. <A> I'm sure you messed up the fraction because tables like that don't have a solid 1/4" steel apron - it's probably 1/16" or less. <S> My first suggestion would have been the very mounting tape you tried, but it does fail with certain materials. <S> The next step is going to be using a drill to make holes where those mounting crosses are located. <S> drill a small hole and then use nuts and machine screws to fasten the strip. <S> Leave the screws loose enough to slide on the strip, then tighten the nuts the rest of the way. <S> You shouldn't have to tighten them very much, so the head of the screw turning shouldn't be a huge issue. <S> Star washers can help if that does become a problem. <A> Another choice is to purchase one or two C-clamps in a two or three inch size. <S> Use them to clamp the end ears of the plug strip to the table support flange. <S> Easily removed for transport or moving plug strip position on the table. <A> Try using a strip of Velcro tape that runs the entire length of the strip, NOT just a couple inches at each end. <S> Offset the tape attached to back of the strip toward what will be the high side. <S> To separate you can run a pointed putty knife or any other plastic or metal shim between the eyes and hook portions of the Velcro strips. <S> There are even stronger versions of the traditional strips that are all plastic where both side look like mushroom heads. <A> Self tapping sheet metal screws available at most any hardware store . <S> Drill one through each cross into the table. <S> Faster, prettier, and longer lasting than tape. <S> The nature of "Self-Tapping" is that the screw itself is a drill bit. <S> These screws equate to always having a sharp brand new metal drill bit. <S> So you may want to wrap the exposed sharp end of the screw for safety reasons. <S> After screwing in the power strip, use Zip Tie Saddle Mounts to hold the wires in place. <S> The Saddle Mount can be screwed into wood or metal. <S> Run <S> a zip tie through the mount to fasten electrical or data cables.
|
First of all make sure you have cleaned and prepped the back of the strip and the metal surface you are attaching to.
|
How strong can i expect wood glue to hold Let me start off by saying I have some basic knowledge of tools (basic home repairs and patch jobs), but no experience with "actual" woodworking projects. For my first project I wanted to try and build a simple serving tray. Similar to this one. My question is, where the corners meet, will wood glue be strong enough to hold the sides together? Or do I need nails or screws? Since I'm new to woodworking I'm not exactly sure how much holding power to expect from wood glue. <Q> That's to be taken with a grain of salt, as it really depends on the application. <S> It's often true that a broken joint actually breaks off a layer of the wood rather than the glue itself. <S> In this case, if you glue the joint thoroughly I'd expect it to perform as expected, though the thickness of the side rails (and therefore the joint surface area) is a factor in ultimate strength. <S> Unless the tray was dropped or otherwise impacted it will probably hold up well. <S> That said, it might be wise to run a single small finish nail (with or without its head) through the joint to reinforce it. <S> If you're going to stain it dark <S> it's easy to hide something like that. <A> My Dad's shop teacher always said: <S> The nail holds the joint together while the glue dries. <S> If you clamp it tightly while it is drying, it should be fine. <S> Those tiny little nails don't really offer much holding power. <S> If you use a better joint than a miter or butt joint, something with increased surface area like a dovetail joint , a nail is even less necessary. <A> Wood glue works best when you join two pieces of wood along the long-grain. <S> It helps to make the joint close fitting and to clamp the joint together while the glue dries. <S> In that case the glued joint can be expected to be stronger than the wood itself. <S> If you make joints using end-grain they are usually much weaker. <S> In your example it looks like the mitred corner joints are reinforced by splines. <S> This is where a slot is cut across the corner, a piece of thin wood is then glued into the slot. <S> This makes for more of a long-grain to long-grain joint. <S> As Jon noted in his answer , nails and screws are mainly used to hold the joint together while the glue dries - when you don't have suitable clamps. <S> Note that there is a woodworking.stackexchange.com where you can get very good answers to these sorts of questions <S> - well worth browsing some of the answers there. <A> The main concern is that the sides (especially the sides with the finger slots) remain firmly attach to the bottom. <S> Those are the most important joints, by far. <S> You might want to predrill and screw the bottom to the side pieces. <S> Whether the four sides remain tightly joined is of looks. <S> The photo shows splined mitre joints. <S> The mitred joint alone is not going to hold up with just glue because it means gluing endgrain to endgrain. <S> Additionally, a mitre joint is only precise at one humidity level. <S> Increase <S> the humidity and the wood swells, causing the joint to no longer be a pair of 45 deg bevels. <S> Same with lower humidity. <S> This will even more stress on the mitered joint. <S> The important aspect is the splines. <S> You will need a good fit between the kerf and the spline, not too tight and not loose. <S> glue up the 4 mitres and let dry, then cut the 4 kerfs, then cut splines to match the kerf, keep cutting/trimming the splines until there is a snug fit. <S> Don't do it the opposite way by recut the kerfs to match the splines. <S> If all else fails, use a loose spline and some glue that is designed to fill gaps. <S> It is this glue joint that will hold the mitres together through seasonal changes in humidity.
|
Better wood glues make the claim that your joint will be stronger than the wood itself.
|
Why does the voltage drop when my office circuit (115V) is under load? 3 circuits (red, blue, black, neutral white; approx. 100ft in metal conduit [ed: alongside 2 other similar 4-conductor MWBC]) feeding several outlets in a couple rooms. Voltage tests 110V(ish) on all three, neutral-to-earth voltage is around 9V. Plug tester says everything's fine. (Y'know, that consumer plug with 2 yellow LEDs & one red LED.) [ed: light industrial +office location, all work professionally done ~10 years ago, main is 250A 480V/3 but this is off a 208/120 3 wye transformer, 12AWG solid copper wires, 20A breakers, boring office loads (few computers, router, 802.11 switch, a small printer, alarm, a space heater, micro-fridge)] However, I plug something in, and get no juice. It's a verrrry localized brownout. Other circuits on the panel are fine. Does this sound like something obvious? The first symptom we had was a short between blue and neutral, giving 210V on red and black outlets. (Yikes.) After dis- & re-assembling all the outlets and conduit junctions, the short disappeared, but (as above) the circuits are still not usable. This seems like the most appropriate forum, but if this question goes somewhere else please let me know. Thanks! <Q> Unfortunately your description may indicate that it could be something other than a loose connection. <S> You have a multiwire branch circuit meaning your neutral is being shared by 3 circuits. <S> Are you troubleshooting a three phase circuit? <S> If you aren't then you could be overloading the neutral. <S> You say the circuits are 100 feet long. <S> What are the loads they are powering? <S> This could be just a standard voltage drop brought on by distance and load. <S> Also what is the conductor wire size and what is the size of the breakers powering it? <S> Also as it was pointed out you reading between your ground and neutral should be 0V <S> not 9V. <S> So check the wiring for loose or poorly made connections and verify the wiring is properly installed. <S> If you are still having the same problems, then it's not the obvious but something more complex <S> and you will probably need a professional to help you sort things out. <S> Good luck. <A> After your short you now have a problem on 1 or possibly 2 circuits with a load no voltage. <S> The short probably found a back stabbed connection and damaged it <S> that's why you have 110 and the outlet tester shows good but under a load there is no power the damaged connection opens, <S> when the load is removed you can measure voltage this happens. <S> To find the problem plug in a load to this circuit breaker turned On. <S> Now start checking outlets prior to this one if you find a good outlet in this circuit it will be at that box or the first dead one. <S> Turn off the power and pull the outlet you are looking for a broken wire, loose wire nut or a back stabb on the hot or neutral. <S> If you don't find a damaged connection after pulling the outlets but when you turn the power back on it works you need to replace the outlets if back stabbed because the connection will fail again and damage the wire further. <A> You have a lost neutral. <S> Stop using the circuit until fixed. <S> This is a classic "lost neutral <S> " we get all the time either on main panels or multi-wire branch circuits (MWBC, which is what this is). <S> The whole thing is one large circuit since they share neutral. <S> Given the casual nature of speech and this question blowing over from ee.se, I suspect you may be out of your depth, no offense. <S> Particularly if "melting wires together" is a thing that is happening to you, it's really time to put the tools down and call a pro, or else "get religion" about doing good electrical work to Code and then read a book on electrical cover to cover and not skip through it as people with "smartphone attention spans" are prone to. <S> Google cannot substitute for a book because it only answers questions,and your field knowledge is not sufficient to know which questions to ask . <S> This is a 3-phase MWBC, implying New York City residence. <S> My advice on MWBCs here applies. <S> Particularly the part about pigtailing neutrals . <S> You are 3-phase so where it says 2, read 3. <S> The "symptom" for this problem is that if you plug a bulky load into one leg of the MWBC, say a resistive heater, and measure voltage at other legs of the circuit, it will be other than the expected 120V. <S> Another giveaway is a high difference in voltage between neutral and ground, on a 100' run, 1-2 volts is to be expected but no more than that. <S> It sounds like you did not fix (or find) <S> the problem with the neutral. <S> If you insist on continuing to work on it, and you follow my advice, you'll be revisiting a lot of it, but also look in the service panel at the neutral termination there. <S> The overcurrent may have fried it. <A> neutral-to-earth voltage is around 9V. <S> It should be 0 volts. <S> Check voltage between Red and Blue, Red and Black, Blue and Black .... and so on.
|
The original installer may be trying to run some of the circuits on the neutral and has switched the ground to use it as the neutral for some of the circuits. If you are looking for the obvious answer, uncommon voltage drops are usually caused by poor connections. So go through the entire three circuits and insure all connections are electrically and mechanically sound. MWBCs are complicated and have special rules that need to be honored if you don't want things like this happening.
|
What kind of metal is safe for DIY BBQ repair? The flame deflectors in the propane BBQ are rusted to bits. They sit an inch or two above the flames. For making new ones, I know to not use any galvanized or painted sheet metal. What kind of sheet metal would not be a potential health issue? <Q> Best would be a cast iron/steel piece, it would last forever and do exactly same as next item. <S> Second best would be mild carbon steel, what we call black steel where I come from. <S> It rusts like no tomorrow <S> but it is cheap, sturdy and no surprises. <S> Galvanized is ridiculous, as propane heat will melt the zinc and it will make a puddle. <S> What we call "kettle steel" in my neck of the woods. <S> But that is hard to work into shape, difficult to weld, heavy as bricks and thus expensive. <A> Prior to purchasing a pellet smoker I used propane with mild steel trays I made to hold a little water and wood chips. <S> The trays did last a few years but rusted out <S> so I folded up another set. <S> It was an inexpensive way to distribute the heat and get some smoke flavor out of a propane grill. <A> I decided to try a large diy stainless steel drip pan fashioned from upcycled BBQ carts, which are everywhere on CL, placed about 1/2" below the grill grates, and about 6" above the flames of the four burners. <S> We've been using tinfoil this way this spring. <S> The SS metal ought to remain cooler than deflectors 1" above the flames. <S> While it doesn't eliminate the risk of fumes, the lower temp ought to reduce the risk. <S> Could also use an old cookie/baking sheet designed for kitchen ovens, but don't have one to spare.
|
Best performance is heat resistant high alloy steel with large portions of nickel, molybdenum and others. Stainless is a waste of money, heat over time will both make it brittle and leach mystery compounds like chromium into nearby surfaces. I would use mild steel if making a part , many grills are painted or powder coated prior to using these metals it is a good idea to cure them by running them through a heat cycle prior to using for food consumption.
|
Can I Add a Plug to Lights Designed to be Wired In? So I purchased these lights on Amazon, not realizing that they don't actually have a wall plug, they're just bare wires. Can I attach some wiring and a plug to the wires to be able to plugin them into the wall? If so, what all would I need to accomplish the task? Here is the only technical information about the lights that I saw: 10W 12V LED Flood Light with Epistar Chip. And here is a picture of how it is currently wired: <Q> No. <S> They're 12VDC, which means if you plug them into your wall they'll go PFFFZZZZZT and make a little puff of smoke. <S> Or worse. <S> You'll need a power supply (a wall brick) that provides 12 volts and enough current. <S> You can add mating plugs to the lights or just crimp them together. <A> Since it's low-voltage (12V) <S> and NOT mains power , flexible cordage is allowed broadly. <S> If you missed that it's low-voltage, the dead giveaway is the black and white cord wires in the photo absent a green/green-yellow equipment safety ground . <S> Low-voltage DC doesn't need it. <S> First, polarity matters . <S> Second, the standard 120V NEMA 1 plug is right out , because some epsilon-minus will plug it into a wall socket and it will blow up. <S> Honestly, there aren't a lot of good choices for 12 volt DC plug. <S> The very ungainly "cigarette lighter" socket seems to be the de-facto standard, which just goes to show how desperate we are for a standard. <S> Andersons are also ungainly and Molex are too hard to unplug. <S> Coaxial connectors like on your Internet router is probably as good as it gets. <S> Or pull 'em off GM cars (the most common) at a u-pull-it junkyard. <A> Use a 4 pin XLR connector (generally used for 12V power) <S> Pinout: <S> https://www.canford.co.uk/Technical/Article/XLR4PinWiringConvention <S> 10W at 12V is about an amp of current (power divided by voltage) - for safety use 5A cable and use a power supply capable of delivering 15W per lamp attached.
|
You'll want to use a plug that is for 12 volts DC I have thought of using sockets like NEMA L3 that are so obscure no one uses them, but conversly, no one sells them either at a sane price. If you need outdoor/waterproofing, then hit up electronics supply shops for automotive grade sockets and plugs, with the little gaskets and all that.
|
What to do with a spare 220 line? I took out an old oven and replaced it with a new gas one so now I have a spare 220 line that I don’t need anymore. It backs up to the garage and I’m Wondering if there is anything useful I could use it for other than just capping it off and putting it in an access panel for the future. <Q> It depends. <S> If it's a 4-wire connection (hot-hot-neutral-ground) you are good to go. <S> If is a 3-wire connection (hot-hot-neutral and no equipment safety ground), you have two choices (or not): <S> If the neutral wire is a bare wire, you can permanently recharacterize it as a ground wire, and use the two "hots" to drive a 240V-only load (but not a 120/240 load like a dryer). <S> You move the ground wire from the neutral bar to the ground bar. <S> (in a main panel they may be the same bar). <S> This option is not available if the neutral is white or gray. <S> You can convert it to a 4-wire connection by retrofitting a ground wire. <S> Fortunately the ground wire need only be #10 and can follow any viable route back to the panel, any other #10 ground or conduit, or the grounding electrode system. <S> With that matter taken care of, you can redirect/retask it to another purpose so long as all splices are made in junction boxes which are accessible. <S> If it is already a 4-wire connection, or if you are making it a 4-wire connection, leave things in a state where you can convert it back to service for an electric range. <S> Some jurisdictions require you provision this service, and easy convertibility meets the requirement. <A> I might also suggest that it be left in place, not often but a couple of times I have been asked to install electric ovens where Gas was in use and have found that the home originally had electric wiring (some folks don't like gas if you sell the home. <S> years ago it was easy to find convection ovens that were electric but not until more recently were gas conveaction ovens available (being the second reason). <A> The NEC requires us to install a range circuit and include it in our calculations even if a gas unit is installed. <S> Based on that, I would recommend you terminate it and leave it right where it incase someone wants to install an electric range at a later date. <S> Hope this helps. <A> I had what I presumed was a 220 plug installed in an out-room on the house I bought (was labeled "kiln" on the main box). <S> Not long after, we had to replace the A/C <S> and they put a new condenser on that side <S> and I told them to use that 220 line (we eventually removed the wall). <S> Saved them some time and me some money. <A> Import an electric kettle from Europe and put a 220V plug on it. <S> Then you can marvel at this great invention that we've been using here since the middle of the 20th century. <S> Business Insider link
|
A spare 40 amp that is acceptable from the garage can be used for all kinds of things , welders, compressors or an electric vehicle charger to name a few items.
|
Can I reuse mounting holes into a stud for a shelf? I'm painting and I have to take a big shelf off the wall. The shelf is screwed into the studs because of it's size. The wall is drywall. Will I be able to use the same holes as before and keep the same strength? Or do I need to fill the holes with something? <Q> Assuming that the screws don't feel loose when you remove them due to inadequate length or pilot holes that are too large, you can reuse the holes. <S> I've done just that a thousand times with everything from knickknack shelves to solid wood doors. <S> The point of concern usually isn't the holes, but the screws. <S> If they were barely adequate before, they'll be risky now. <S> Since you haven't told us anything about the shelf or the screws, I can't be more specific than that. <A> I will often take a toothpick coated in a polyurethane glue (like "Gorilla Glue") and insert it into a reused hole before redriving a screw (especially cabinet and door hinges), but if the screw was nice and tight coming out, you'll be okay. <A> I suggest you to put in a new screw little bigger (0,5 or 1mm thicker). <S> Don't know in US units but online calculator exists for this. <S> New screw will have the same strenght.
|
Just to be complete:In brick walls I suggest to replace the plugs with new ones to restore original strenght (if regoular self-drill screw are used), if standard thread ('bolt' thread) was used the old screw and plug can be kept.
|
How can I know if I damaged any electrical wire while drilling a hole in my wall? I have a relatively new house (built 2014) with circuit breakers etc. I just drilled a couple of holes at around the same level as the electrical outlets and I put 1 5/8 inch screws in them. I probably should have drilled the holes below or above the level where the electrical outlets are. If I use a stud finder (with electrical charge detector) I do see the detection. I just want to make sure that I did not damage any electrical wires behind the wall. How can I do that? <Q> You'd need a boroscope or access to the area. <S> Partial severing of a conductor would not disable the circuit, but it could cause a hot spot in cases of high, sustained current flow. <S> Wiring is not run level with the outlet boxes. <S> It's typically 8-12" above them, with drops into the boxes from above. <S> However, wiring is supposed to be bored through and mounted to studs at their depth center. <S> Screws 1-5/8" long should not contact them. <A> Carpenters are required to use 1-5/8" screws or shorter, and wires are required to be positioned <S> so they have a bit of a safety margin from getting nicked by a 1-5/8" screw -- or they must be guarded by a metal plate . <S> So if you're ever drilling or screwing and it feels like you're hitting the worst knot in the world -- STOP. <S> You hit a guard plate that protects electrical wiring. <S> From the electrician's POV that's generally done by using at least 2x4 joists and centering the electrical cable on the joists, then following with a 1/2" thick wall covering like drywall. <A> If it was built to code you are fine because there are nail plates covering any wire that is within 1 1/4" of the edge of the stud. <S> The wire is already sitting at least the length of your screw away, or else is covered with 18 ga steel plate! <A> There are some answers that tell you about metal plates but those are on the studs not on the wiring. <S> Another fallacy of that is to assume everything was done a certain way , or to assume where you were drilling the holes, <S> for example a tv center might have some things different than say an outlet by the floor. <S> How can you know if you have drilled through a wire with out tearing out your dry wall ? <S> See through Walls with an Android App and this 3-D Sensor
|
The cables might also run along the studs from above or below. Drywall adds 1/2" at least so you would be fine using 1 5/8" screws straight into the stud. The strict answer to your question is that you can't, practically speaking, at least without a visual inspection. Carpenters aren't expected to have X-ray vision.
|
Need to split water line behind refrigerator to add an espresso machine Just a quick explanation of what I'm trying to do. I'm not a plumber by any means, but I'd like to try to get this done on my own. I have an espresso machine on the counter next to my fridge. I want to plumb it in, so I bought an Everpure ESO6 filter: Also the Everpure QL3B Filter Head: This will go under my cabinet, so I'll be drilling a hole on the side with a spade bit in which the braided hoses for both the espresso machine and to the water source will go through. Here's how everything looks connected: The problem I'm having now is how I get the tee connected to the water source. Here is my water source, which currently has the refrigerator connected to it (1/4"): My question is: How should I tee this? I bought a tee that's 1/4" outside diameter (OD), but the problem (as I was told by a Home Depot employee) is that all ends are male. But couldn't I just connect a 1/4" braided hose to the water line, then into the tee, then plug the line to the filter and the line to the fridge, and that would be it? I'm also wondering if I actually need a pressure regulator. My manual says if line pressure exceeds 5 bars (~70psi) then I'd need it. <Q> Ask the city if it is city water. <S> As for plumbing the tee in, you can use an length of hose needed to get the water to the fridge and espresso maker. <A> yeah, it looks kind of tight in there. <S> can you fit the tee with the cross-piece going into the spigot and then use a flexible line with an elbow on the end to connect to the side of the tee, connect the other flexible line to the end of the tee. <S> else turn the main water off, drain the system, and raise the spigot on an extender the screw the tee on. <A> Couldn't I just connect a 1/4" braided hose to the water line, then into the tee, then plug the line to the filter and the line to the fridge, and that would be it? <S> YES. <S> I'm also wondering if I actually need a pressure regulator. <S> Probably not, but you can reduce the flow with a control valve and this should also effectively reduce your pressure as well. <S> Although it might interfere with how fast water fills the unit.
|
Pressure regulator would depend on your incoming water pressure.
|
Flush and seal refrigerator HVAC leak? So my fridge sprung a refrigerant leak and leaked out a bunch of its freon, I I thought I could Easily fix it by refilling it witth R134a with leak sealer. However it continue to leak and this eventually caused the compressor to grenade itself (presumably due to the oil absorbing water from the air). Now I know how to install a new compressor however, if I simply install a new compressor and recharge it all of the refrigerant will leak out, I also suspect that the compressor will die fairly quickly as the old compressor probably sent metal bits though the system.My question is how I would go about Flushing the system and patching the leak?Buying a new refrigerator would not be practical as the one we have is a bit of a special size. <Q> I would say this is not a DIY project for at least 3,4,5+ reasons the major ones opening a HVAC/R system requires a license, <S> yes you can find R134 <S> In less than 1 lb cans for cars or a duster or electronic troubleshooting freeze spray if you can find the adapters <S> and it would work if you could install new parts and remove all the compressibles (air) and dehydrate the system (a vacuum pump to pull the system to at least 500um). <S> A new filter dryer on the suction line would pickup any metal from the old compressor. <S> I have seen techs "get away with" 1000um <S> but this is risky because any moisture in the POE oil will become acidic and that eats the varnish off the motor windings in the new compressor and then it shorts out. <S> Bringing me to the point is the oil already acidic? <S> We know it is contaminated because of the leak stop being used <S> (leak stop may work on high temp AC like automotive but will plug the capillary tube on most refers). <S> UV dye and or leak stop will void the warranty on almost every compressor I have purchased. <S> Now another non DIY reason you want to repair the leak, how and where did it start leaking? <S> My bet would be in the evaporator, almost all refers have aluminum evaporators and sealing a contaminated aluminum line that has been punctured is almost impossible, <S> I don't do service calls on fridges but have Tryed to help friends that have tried to solder the aluminum lines to watch the line melt <S> (had to replace the evaporator) <S> another friend had a vending machine he tried to use some special 2 part epoxy and thought it was working until he unplugged the system loaded it up and took it to a break room, that warm day caused the Freon pressure to go (calculated) to 275 or so and blew the plug out and sprayed oil and Freon inside the machine (did I mention it did not cool at that point). <S> Now for the last point, did you know there are fines up to $25,000.00 for doing this kind of work without a license? <A> This will not be an easy fix to do it properly which is why most just buy a new refrigerator. <S> If using leak fix you need to be sure the system is totally dry or it will make a mess. <S> It works in a dry system and when it finds a leak it is exposed to moisture and coagulates around the leak since there is moisture in the atmosphere. <S> You will need to remove the capillary tube or you will get all sorts of crud stuck in it. <S> Better yet, replace the tube with a new one in case it got clogged. <S> I usually use R11 (not the refrigerant, the flushing kit) <S> they coined the term R11 since back before EPA regulations R11 was used to flush systems. <S> At any rate there are several brands and they all involve injecting their fluid under nitrogen pressure and allowing it to exit out an open tube. <S> You will then need to fill the system with nitrogen and look for the leak using soap bubbles and or a sonic leak detector. <S> If you do not find the leak you can not properly vacuum the system and you will be left with moisture in the system. <S> Vacuum the system >500 microns and charge to the exact weighed in charge. <S> Yes, changing a compressor properly really does take all this work which is why many techs take shortcuts and have repairs that don’t last. <S> Do it right and the system will last for years. <A> 1: How do you know the refrigerator was leaking ? <S> You possibly over filled the system - that is one reason the compressor may have exploded. <S> 2: Your refrigerator may not have used R134a - did you verify the type of refrigerant it used as marked on the label? <S> Samsung uses R600 <S> I thinkothers <S> I am not sure. <S> You did not specify make/ model so we can not know <S> - please add that to your post. <S> If you mixed and matched - pressures are <S> different - things can go blam into bits and they did <S> so I am guessing either you overfilled or you mixed and matched. <S> 3: Now you will need to do quite a bit - as there is a capillary tube , and I am not sure if it will have an orifice tube. <S> Replace these items with new - <S> but I would attempt a flush first. <S> Use a nitrogen flush through the system much like when you change out from R22 to R410. <S> Or you can buy the replacement condenser coil, evap coil and capillary tube along with that compressor and be certain. <S> After verification of Vacuum .. fill the unit to the proper pressure don't overfill sometimes your compressor may be pre-filled - verify <S> if so and what refrigerant.
|
You will need to pull a complete vacuum on the system let the vacuum sit for a 24 hour period make sure that the vacuum has been maintained during that time period - if not you have a leak and need to find and fix it first. Flush the system with a flushing kit.
|
Primed wood and painted with white paint but looks yellow. Why and how to fix? I have a new door that was installed a year ago. The frame is raw wood and I didn't paint it until recently. The wood is basically untreated. It hasn't been exposed to water much because it is under a shallow roof. I primed it one time then painted it with a water based white paint the next day. As I was painting I noticed that there was a yellow tint on painted wood. (The paint is actually a year old too). When the paint dried the yellowing was very noticeable. Why did this happen? Was it the wood or the year old paint? How do I rectify? I primed it again today and the yellowing is mostly gone. I can see a slight hint of it. I will probably prime another coat tomorrow. Should I buy new white paint? This is photo of the frame before priming and painting. This is it after painting, discovering that it is yellowish and then priming again!I can still tell that it is on the yellow side. You can see it compared to the white door. <Q> I have seen primers allow wood tannins to bleed through, I use a schellac probably misspelled but standard primers being water based allows the oils in the wood to bleed through. <A> I notice your stucco surrounding that frame is YELLOWish and it looks like a direct path to sunlight upon that door <S> as well - judging from the shadowing and the light. <S> What surface type was your paint ? <S> Semi-Gloss or Glossy , what ??? <S> What kind of paint, water based , oil based latex etc.. <S> Your wood frame - you do not state if it was stained previously or stripped of paint either ? <S> If so you should prep it for painting and not just prime it. <S> So the possibilities here :1: With that stucco surrounding the frame the color appears to be yellow because your eyes are being deceived. <S> (Natural occurrence - nothing abbie-normal with you).2: Your wood framing boards are treated with checmical's (like a stripper) and bleeding through - get an after strip paint prep chemical. <S> Just an FYI <S> I have had several white paints - Glossy and Semi Glossy , possibly others for more than two years old <S> (maybe 4 now) Behr, Valspar, I think Sherwin Williams <S> as well <S> but I would need to go double check that. <S> I stir them and the stuff on the bottom <S> I mix it up really well and not a single one of them has ever had a yellow tint or any other tint. <S> So I suggest you paint a separate piece of wood just like you paint the frame. <S> After it dries look at it indoors - is it yellowed ? <S> If not set it next to the frame and see if it is yellowed .. if the latter is true you have your answer ; Optical illusion it only looks yellow on account of that stucco. <A> Pine is often used due to its cheap cost. <S> It soaks paint and primer into the wood, and does so somewhat unevenly. <S> This lets the "yellow" in yellow pine show through the portions of the primer that are less on top of the wood (and more within the wood). <S> You need to prime it twice. <S> The second coat will soak into the wood less, as the pores are filled a bit by the prior coat. <S> Also use a shield to protect the wood from the reflected light of wall next to it (a piece of cardboard will do) to see the true color of the frame without the reflected light.
|
I have used zinser and kilzs with success over wood and rooms that had smokers to stop the bleed through.
|
What size is this wallplug, and then what drill size (and type) would I use for brick? I'm trying to hang a hose "butler" from Home Depot (Model CHH200HB). It comes with three wallplugs and screws, so should be simple, but there is no sign of what size the plugs or screws are, nor which drill size to use. Can anyone help? Here are the plugs and screws, with one of the plugs in a gauge: So it looks like the outer diameter of the plug is 5/16" -- that's at the widest part (and these plugs have no flange). Does that immediately tell me the drill bit too should be 5/16"? Seems obvious I suppose, but the general wisdom seems to be that if you've drilled the proper hole, the plug should be very tight, even needing a hammer to insert. That might then imply I should use the next size down, but what exactly is the "next" down from 5/16? I have one that is 1/16 down; i.e. 4/16, or a quarter inch. But how do I know that's the right one versus, say, one that is 1/32 down; i.e. taking 5/16 = 10/32, then a 9/32" bit (if there even is such a thing)?† And of course that could get even finer grained. Instead of 1/4", or 9/32", how about 19/64"? Second, if I'm drilling into brick, what type of drill do I need -- i.e. do I need a special brick-and-other-fairly-hard-stuff bit? I have one of those yellow boxes of Dewalt bits you find in Home Depot, but I don't know what type they are. I think I'd have bought a general-purpose-ish set, meaning not just for wood, but do these look like they'll handle brick? If I do need something like a hammerhead, then all I have are these UK/European bits: and I have no idea how to relate those numbers to any other screw/drill/etc numbering system on the planet. Finally, would anyone else agree with me that while there are plenty of bad things in the world, including possible imminent nuclear war, antibiotic-resistant bugs, and too many TV shows with the words " The Real Housewives of... " in the title or with Simon Cowell as a panel member, the biggest source of misery is the lack of standardization on screw/drill/etc diensions?†† thanks! † FWIW, I tried to gauge the screw diameter too (not that it matters, I guess, since if I get the plug's hole right, I implicitly accommodate the screw), but it's hard because the threads are quite deep. On the gauge, it sits around 7/32", or maybe 13/64". †† Although if it were a competition, then screw dimensions would get a good run for its money by the corresponding issue in cooking and baking (I mean, in what universe is a "cup" an appropriate unit for measuring mass -- really?) <Q> Use the Black & Decker drill bit for masonry. <S> 8 mm is compatible with the 5/16" size you gauged. <S> If you choose, for a guaranteed tight fit, use the 7 mm drill first and if the insert is too tight, go up to the 8 mm. <S> Even if the insert slips into the hole, the little "wings" should keep it from spinning in the hole until the screw goes in far enough to swell the plastic to a tight fit. <S> After the hole is drilled a little extra deep, do what you can to blow the dust out, so the anchor grips the actual hole, not the dust in it. <A> If you have a 7,5mm drill tip use that, otherwise drill a 7mm hole first, try putting in the plug (it should barley fit). <S> If you see it's impossible to insert, enlarge the hole with a 8mm tip. <S> PS: Happy Easter <A> Perhaps they are wallplugs in your world but in my world they are anchors ( then again i have happy little trees in my world thanks to Bob Ross ). <S> They really are not the correct anchor to use in masonry. <S> Here is an informative article How to Choose and Use Concrete Fasteners, Masonry Screws
|
The correct term for your wallplug dodad is an "Anchor". Also you can go at local retailer and buy few 7mm 'fishers' and use them instead, suggest 'empty wall' version that is foine for both 'full' bricks and hollow bricks.
|
Are splices required in a junction box? If I have a conduit with 6 wires (3 separate circuits), and I want them to split at some point, can I send the conduit (A) to a 4-inch square junction box and then send 2 wires to leave the junction box in conduit B, and 4 wires to leave the junction box in conduit C? All without splicing, just continuous run through the junction box. Also, is splicing or no-splicing recommended one way or the other? <Q> No, there is no requirement to make splices in a junction box. <S> However, if you're not making any splices, and never plan to. <S> Conduit bodies come in various configurations, though it sounds like a simple T type conduit body would be applicable to your situation. <A> Yes, you can do that all day. <S> It's a regular trick of mine. <S> What's more, if pass-through is the only thing happening in the junction box, it counts legally as a conduit body , and cubic inches fall under conduit body rules rather than box-fill rules, which means you can put a lot more wires "through" it. <S> All things being equal, not splicing a wire is better than splicing it for no reason. <S> It's also less to inspect. <S> Though I like to leave 12-18" slack somewhere in case I ever need to splice off those wires. <S> Regardless, like any electrical box, it can't be covered up by building construction. <A> There should be no requirement for actually cutting a cable that passes through a junction box. <S> Of course, that depends on your local code requirements. <S> In terms of safety, simply passing a cable through would not normally be construed as adding to any kind of fire hazard as long as there is room in the J-box..
|
You can use a conduit body, instead of a junction box. A properly done wire nut will not fail, but avoiding it still removes that small chance of a mistake. You have to be able to access the cover without tools.
|
Can I run drainage pipe a short distance above the frost line I live in SE Michigan where the frost line is between 3 and 4 feet. I have a house with a basement I'd like to finish and would like to run the water as far away from the house as I can. Clay soil. However, while I have a decent lot of 1/2 acre, the available slope is minimal and there are no storm sewers or culverts in the lot where I can easily send water. Max drop over about 40 feet to the road is 2-3 feet at best. I was hoping to run the water about 20 feet away into a dry well, but most dry well discussion online puts them at least 3 or 4 feet tall, which puts total depth of the well at some 8 feet deep if the line entering it is 4 feet. My question is, do I need to run the whole line from start to finish at 4 feet deep, or if I get sufficient grade, can it finish (after a 20-30 foot run) at about 2-3 feet deep (i.e. water has a fast flow), with an opening to below the frost line, at 4-5 feet bottom. I'm trying to find a way to get the water away with minimal available grade. This is roughly what I have to work with: <Q> While I do not know the regulations in Michigan, drainage pipe does not need to be below the frost line in Ohio. <S> The most common way to connect drainage lines is to send them to the street. <S> This puts the pipe at curb level. <S> At the street, the pipe is 2 to 3 inches below the ground. <S> At the house, the pipe is maybe a foot underground. <S> The frost line in northern Ohio is similar to Michigan. <S> As long as the pipe sloap is enough to clear the pipe of standing water, you should be ok. <A> Trapped water that freezes can expand and burst a pipe. <S> With a drain pipe, the water flows out of it. <S> Even if you get a little puddling at the bottom of the pipe, expansion doesn't really push against anything. <S> Corrugated pipe could catch a little water in the grooves on the bottom, but not in a way where expansion from freezing could damage anything. <A> You should be just fine. <S> NDS says all you need is 8” of soil over your dry well. <S> Install a bleeder line off of <S> the dry well in case it becomes full <S> so water can run off. <S> I’ve seen sump pump lines exit water even on the ground <S> and they do just fine. <S> Think you need a sub pump well, and use a sump pump with back flow preventer valve and pump the water out in your situation.
|
As long as you have even a little downward slope, the water will run out (it will run out even if the pipe is horizontal).
|
Any hidden disadvantage to lever-type door latches? I have a lever-type door knob on one of my bedrooms and I like it a lot more than the ordinary round knobs. I am considering replacing all the door knobs in the house with levers. Is there any reason to not do this? Why do people use round knobs at all? <Q> It‘s interesting how these things differ among cultures! <S> In Europe <S> (Germany for sure, but I never observed a difference in other European countries) basically all doors have levers. <S> Here you install a knob only when you need the feature that it becomes more difficult open a door for pets and toddlers. <S> However, in most of these cases you can already get away with putting the handle upright, so knobs are really rare. <A> In my experience, and in general terms... Knobs are: Familiar (in the U.S) <S> Low-profile (more compact horizontally) <S> Funcional with ambidexterity/symmetry/bidirectionality (operate the same from any side--some levers only function downward) <S> Non-snagging (and slightly more secure for this reason) <S> Less expensive due to production cost and/or sales volume <S> Better suited to some tastes and home styles <S> Levers are: Familiar (in Europe and elsewhere) <S> Handicap-friendly (and, conversely, not as child-secure) <S> More striking in appearance Swing-specific Likely to catch on straps and clothing on occasion <S> Better suited to some tastes and home styles <S> Comment addition credit: <S> Matt Lacey , Angew , Ferrybig , Accccumulation <A> My wife and I moved into a home with lever door handles. <S> You can't childproof these easily either <S> (they have devices, they just don't work as well). <A> The one mayor hidden disadvantage is that they need a spring to keep the lever/handle in horizontal position. <S> I found after moving to a 20 years old house that some of them were not horizontal, but in a falling/diagonal position. <S> They didn't latch the door, and don't look nice, as can be seen at the begining of this video: <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_y2_sCDnj4 <S> Furthermore, the spring in the lever is not standard, and finding one that suits a handle that is not manufactured anymore is not an easy task. <S> You can get more information on that in this site . <A> To add another bullet point to supplement the other good answers: While most exterior doors are pretty close to air tight and security is generally not a concern for interior doors, locks on lever-type handles are typically easy to bypass if there is any sort of gap at the bottom of the door (typical of interior doors). <S> This can be a benefit if you know and trust everyone you live with and a door <S> accidentally gets locked with no one inside the room, but if you have a slightly suspect house mate, round knobs with a security lock have an advantage. <S> For example, back when I was in college, many students found that they could easily use a clothes hanger to enter their own or someone else's locked dorm room using a clothes hanger underneath the door from the outside to pull down on the newly installed lever-style handles facing the interior of the room. <S> The college replaced all the knobs on the interior side of the dorm rooms as a result. <A> I've gotten my pocket/belt loops caught in the handle when maneuvering around doors. <S> Have tripped myself/destroyed belt loops this way. <S> EXAMPLE! <A> One disadvantage of using levers is mentioned in this article in The Economist - they may be more easily opened by bears (and velociraptors). <S> True, elderly and disabled people find it easier to operate doors with handles. <S> But so do bears. <S> In British Columbia, bears have been known to scavenge for food inside cars—whose doors have handles, knob advocates point out. <S> Pitkin County, Colorado, in the United States, has banned door levers on buildings for this very reason. <S> One newspaper columnist in the pro-knob camp has noted that the velociraptors in “Jurassic Park” were able to open doors by their handles. <A> Lever doorknobs are now mandated by the ADA (Velociraptors with Disabilities Act) because they are much easier to operate for people with poor motor skills (or very short arms). <S> That's why they are practically universal in commercial buildings. <S> Keep in mind ADA is not a "fist of God" requirement, and the primary doctrine of ADA is "readily achievable", or in new construction "unless impractical", hence the ability of a town to override it for cause of bears. <S> As far as snagging clothes, that is particularly a problem for firemen due to their gear, and also can snag fire hoses. <S> As such an enhancement was mandated in public spaces: <S> And this is a pretty good idea overall. <S> This is the only kind I would install. <A> As Mazura summarized, "Levers don't have as many aesthetic options as knobs." <S> My house has four types of door "knobs". <S> Just looking at the hardware, you can tell how it should be opened. <S> From most common to least common: Small <S> (non-rotating) knobs: <S> Swing the cabinet door open. <S> Large vertical handles: <S> Slide the pocket door sideways. <S> Modest horizontal handles: <S> Pull the cabinet out. <S> Normal (rotating) knobs: <S> Twist the knob, and swing the door open. <S> The (few) interior doors that have "normal" (rotating) knobs have glass/"crystal" knobs, because they look nice in our style of house. <S> I like the contrast between the knobs and the handles; it makes it easy to tell how to operate the door. <A> Our cats can open our doors with levers. <A> My mother uses a walker <S> and she moved into an apartment complex with some flat, but sharp, lever handles (i.e. not rounded). <S> She kept hitting them and cutting her hand. <S> I replaced them with some rounded levers. <S> But be aware of those older ones from a time when people were not concerned with sharp edges (not a problem on doorknobs).
|
Lever-style knobs would not have as much contrast (vs. handles), and are not needed/available for cabinet doors. One big downside was our young children , who instantly knew how to open them and escape.
|
Sizing circuit for mini split heat pump I'm getting ready to install the Mr Cool DIY 24K Mini Split Heat Pump in my garage. https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-DIY-24-000-BTU-2-Ton-Ductless-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-and-Heat-Pump-230-Volt-60-Hz-DIY-24-HP-230A/207085061 I'm having trouble determining a few things about the circuit. The outdoor unit and indoor unit both have an electrical specification sticker. The outdoor unit indicates its MCA is 15A and its Max Fuse is 25A. The indoor unit indicates its MCA is 3A and its Max Fuse is 15A. My confusion comes from the fact that the indoor unit plugs directly into the outdoor unit and only the outdoor unit receives power from the house. First question; Does the sticker on the outdoor unit take this into account? Some of my reading makes me think that since the sticker explicitly says Max Fuse that I must use a fuse instead of a breaker. Second question; Is this true? <Q> Use a 20A breaker and 12 AWG (or larger) wiring. <S> I read through the installation manual, which was surprisingly bereft of meaningful electrical information. <S> Regardless, the MCA is the required Minimum Circuit Ampacity , meaning your circuit needs to be sized appropriately for at least that amperage. <S> The 24kBTU unit has an MCA of 15, so you'd need a circuit capable of supplying <S> at least 15A. <S> Because this is HVAC equipment, a 14 AWG circuit and 15A breaker is insufficiently sized. <S> This is a continuous load, so you're only allowed to size to 80% of the rated ampacity, and the next larger size is <S> 12 AWG and 20A.The Max Fuse simply states that the maximum size of the OCPD should not be larger than 25A. <S> HACR is likely to be listed on your breaker, but it's no longer required. <S> Neither the NEC nor UL requires it to be labeled anymore, so don't stress over that. <S> You can do what others have suggested and use a larger ampacity circuit with an appropriately fused disconnect at the unit, but your circuit would be needlessly oversized. <S> To directly address your questions, the labels indicate electrical specifications for the unit, and if the instructions only show the indoor unit directly connected to the outdoor unit, then the outdoor unit should provide for any protection the indoor unit requires. <S> The circuit only needs to supply enough current for the unit and not allow more current than the maximum rating. <S> And no, you don't need to use fuses over breakers. <A> The manual says 25 AMP and 10 AWG <A> As it happened my local building supply had an already open shutoff switch/fuse combo. <S> Here is a pic. <S> Note screw fuses. <A> The indoor unit is indeed fed from the outdoor unit. <S> Fuses are definitely superior protection to breakers. <S> The name plate sticker on the indoor unit is there for other reasons. <S> It is not there to tell you how to provide power to it. <A> Use a 30A breaker to feed a fused disconnect with fuses (as your manual said 25A fuses), located next to the outdoor unit. <S> The disconnect is required by code in the US (NEC 440.14)
|
The unit package should include a wiring cord that communicates between the units and provides power.
|
Inducer Fan Blowing Out Flames and Pilot Light on Carrier Furnace? I have a Carrier furnace and have recently replaced the inducer fan assembly in it. The old motor assembly had a piece of sheet metal dangling under it; whereas, the new one does not. The unit worked fine for one day; however, now, after the main burner ignites, almost immediately all flames and the pilot light goes out. I feel that the inducer motor cooling fan (looks like a black knob on top of the motor) might be blowing too much air downward and blowing out the flames and pilot light. Could this really be true? Maybe that piece of sheet metal on the old one helped to block that downward air, and I need to install that old piece on the new assembly? Thanks UPDATE #1: I tried to see if there were any LED error code lights on the board, but there are not (the board was replaced by a technician a couple years ago). I added the sheet metal thingy to the new inducer motor and here is pic of what that looks like: Inducer Motor Pic Here is model info: Product: 58GFA070---11HC Model: 58GFA070-HC Series: 110 Serial: 4392A05699 After reinstalling it, the burners and pilot light immediately blew out again, but then later it seemed to work. It has been running fine for 1 or 2 days now. So, I'm not sure what is going on. What would be my next steps, if it blows out again. PS - After the burners blow out the unit just blows cold air forever. <Q> It would be very, very odd for an inducer motor to blow out the burners and pilot. <S> If it was the case, and since inducers come on before the burners are ignited, I'd expect it to blow out the pilot before the burners ever ignited. <S> That pilot is much easier to blow out than the burners. <S> My suspicion is this: Furnaces that use inducer motors often have pressure sensors that detect whether or not the furnace draft is properly in place. <S> If it is not, the gas to the burners is shut down (I wouldn't be surprised that the pilot is shut down, too, for safety purposes — nowadays most furnaces with inducer motors use electric ignition to avoid the issue). <S> This is actually a good thing. <S> An improper draft can cause big trouble in your house (like everybody-dying-from-carbon-monoxide-poisoning trouble). <S> So this is a behavior you want to have. <S> Many furnaces have an LED light that blinks an error code when this occurs (my light in in the main blower area, not the burner area, but there is a small transparent window <S> so I can see it... in the dark... <S> with my hands over the window...). <S> Something getting in the way of a proper draft is more likely your problem. <S> It could also be caused by dirt/dust/spider-webs/buildup in your exhaust pipes or something partially obstructing the exit (most are on the roof, but if yours in on a side wall, are there plants grown up around it?) <S> What's important is to find that LED (I'm hoping you have one) and either getting out your furnace's manual or finding it online and checking out what the error code is. <S> The blink code would happen right after the burners are shut down. <A> That sounds almost certainly like a flame proving issue although you don’t provide many details. <S> I am guessing there is a circuit board and a flame rod. <S> There are three possibilities, the flame rod is dirty, the circuit board is bad or the furnace is not grounded properly. <A> I have a 25 year old Carrier furnace of the same model, but larger size (58GFA130) having a similar problem. <S> Turns out the manifold pressure was a little too high, and too much gas can blow out the flame and the pilot upon lighting. <S> It's supposed to be set at 3.5 inches (water column, WC) and it was closer to 3.8, so the repair man adjusted it and all is well. <A> Your furnace doesn't have a flame sensor/flame rod. <S> This is an old school standing pilot burner. <S> The inducer motor isn't blowing the flame out, if that were the case it would blow the pilot out before opening the main valve. <S> There are no flash codes on the board. <S> The pressure switch is proving appropriately. <S> Your problem is one of 3 things. <S> Gas valve. <S> The gas valve is faulty and losses the pilot on a failed operation. <S> The inlet gas pressure is too low. <S> Meaning that when the main burner opens the pressure drop is too high and you get a flameout which also drops the pilot. <S> This could be due to another gas appliance added to the system without resizing the gas line. <S> Gas valve pressure is inappropriately set. <S> Gas burns properly at 3.5 inches water column (especially on these simple burners) <S> some modulating units vary the gas pressure. <S> Not in this case. <S> I'm leaning towards number two as the most likely culprit. <S> You may need a tech to check these things out. <S> Unless you have a manometer. <S> Digital Manometer <S> Amazon <S> You can make one easily <S> but it's a pain to use. <S> Homemade Manometer <S> Flickr <S> You literally measure the difference in inches with one side connected to the gas valve at the inlet pressure port or outlet pressure port.
|
It could be caused by the new motor not having enough umph for the exhaust setup in your house or a pressure switch having become too sensitive over time.
|
Is a dedicated circuit to gas furnace always required? USA NEC 2014. Is there any way to dodge the requirement for a dedicated circuit for a gas furnace? I need to hang one more small hardwired load right near the furnace, and would rather not run a new circuit. The other load is not HVAC related, and this is an office outbuilding not a domicile. This is on the side of the furnace and supplies the furnace. <Q> Put a subpanel here <S> Provided there's enough clear working space out from that side of the furnace, you can replace that fusible mini-disconnect (switched fuse cover) with a small subpanel (a "spa panel" type of disconnect is large enough for this job, although GE makes? <S> or at least made the TL510RT that is basically perfect for a 120V only application if you can get it, and SqD has the QO24L50TTS that will do the trick here as well) <S> , that has 2 15A breakers on the same leg, one for the furnace and one for the other circuit. <S> (You can also put the service receptacle for the space on this panel, if one is not already present.) <S> Or, if this is all in conduit... <S> If this circuit is run entirely in conduit, then there should be enough space for another 15A circuit (hot+neutral) in there for the remaining loads, allowing the furnace to be left alone on the existing circuit, or vice-versa, with the furnace moved to the new circuit and the other loads left on the existing circuit. <A> The potential for a "potential" for a serious problem due to overheated wiring and overloaded wiring - not too mention the spikes from other items on the same circuit <S> might be hazardous (even if YOU do know what you are doing - some other wingnut might not). <S> I think this was the reasoning behind the rule and it does make a whole lot of sense. <S> I remember working with industrial size gas roasters and some jobs I just could not do with out a Gas Certification - and that was for good reason too. <A> Absolutely not, and for good reason too. <S> Who's to say the next person won't assume what you've done and add-on to your add-on. <S> And probably the main reaaon why: people can be seriously hurt <S> , even die w/out heat.
|
I don't think you can dodge the requirement with Gas Furnace; the code is quite clear about this so dodging it is not possible unless an inspector is blinded by a vision of Ben Franklin (not an endorsement of using such a method, just saying something not right would have to be going on to 'dodge' the code) .
|
Why do the screws on my fence snap after install? I have installed a wooden fence in my yard using outdoor use decking screws. I've noticed that some of the screws in the boards I've installed last year are starting to snap in half and I'm having to replace them. Is there a reason why this is happening? Or is this just to be expected routine maintenance? <Q> Fence boards tend to warp due to extreme sun exposure and changes in moisture levels. <S> This puts a substantial strain on fasteners. <S> If you did not purchase high-quality screws, this would explain the problem. <S> Low-quality fasteners use weak metal alloys and have much less strength than better screws, which would pull through the wood before they'd break. <S> You can add new screws as needed or pull and replace them with better screws all one at a time (to avoid having to reposition boards). <A> You could determine the cause of failure by looking at the screws under an eye loupe or strong magnifying glass. <S> This automotive web page includes photos of tensile, shear, and torsional failures in steel fasteners. <S> Comparing your broken screws with the examples should reveal the kind of stresses that caused the screw to fail. <S> Flat-sawn boards tend to cup when they dry. <S> The direction will be the opposite of the grain, i.e. the round tree rings try to flatten out. <S> The cupping may be putting extra tension on the screw. <S> In a typical fence design, the boards should be supported by the stringers. <S> If the fence sags/warps/bows/gets pushed, then extra shear stress will be loaded on the screws. <S> I've snapped screws while attempting to drive them into redwood heart-wood; its much harder than spruce/pine/fir. <S> Even if the screw doesn't break, it may have been torqued past its yield point, which would make it weaker than usual. <S> Lastly, it doesn't take much strength to keep deck boards down, and so deck screws are built with mild steel and lax quality. <S> Try a larger diameter or better grade. <A> Deck screws come in a few different diameters , so different strengths. <S> Shorter screws are likely to also be smaller diameter. <S> Ideally you drill a pilot hole in the fence frame and a clearance hole in the fence board. <S> When installing 2x ( 1.5 " lumber ) I just drill a clearance hole and no pilot ; works fine . <S> Worst case, with no drilled holes , the screws would be highly over stressed and only a small service load could cause failure. <S> And as noted there could be quality issues.
|
With small diameter screws and a frequently wet location , failure by corrosion is a small possibility.
|
How can I attach things to the inside of a shipping container without compromising the water tightness? I just got a shipping container for use as storage/workshop and need to figure out how to attach things to the container walls and ceiling, without causing it to leak. I'd like to hang a garden tool rack on the inside of the doors, and a florescent light fixture from the ceiling. Does anyone know how to accomplish that without causing leaks? My thoughts so far: I don't think I can simply screw things into the metal walls as they are fairly thin, and the screws would stick out on the outside. Welding on the inside would probably work, but I don't have the tools for that, or much metal working experience. I have plenty of woodworking tools and carpentry experience though. I've also considered drilling holes for bolts and running them through from the outside to attach 2x4's to then screw into- so the head is on the outside and the nut goes on the inside. I'm not sure what that would do for water tightness through, especially on the ceiling where I would want to mount a piece of wood to screw an electrical fixture into. I don't want to cause a leak in the middle of my "wind and water tight" box. So I would need some way to seal around the bolt holes. Caulk or roofing tar? <Q> You can do this without disturbing the walls or ceiling of the container. <S> Frame thin wall sections on opposite sides (use 2x3s instead of 2x4s to minimize the loss of width). <S> Run 2x3 joists between the two sides at the ceiling. <S> You will then have a free-standing, three-sided structure. <S> With it tight against the walls and ceiling, it can't go anywhere, so you don't need to worry about bracing it so that it doesn't tilt. <S> You can mount to it, hang lighting fixtures from it, etc., without having to secure it to the container. <A> They have a gasket that should keep the water out. <S> I'm not sure if the self drilling screws will make it through the steel of the shipping container <S> you may have to pre-drill your holes. <S> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-120-Count-9-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Self-Drilling-Interior-Exterior-Roofing-Screws/3316530 <A> The only thing I hate more than sheet metal screws is roof penetrations. <S> Containers are thick enough that they will take fine machine screw threads like 10-32, 1/4-28, M6-1.0, etc. <S> You can seal that with silicone. <S> I would consider welding only because I have access to industrial paint. <S> After the welding on the interior burned the paint off the exterior and "heat treated" the metal to make it super rust prone, I would get up there and gritblast to near white metal and use zinc chromate primer followed with epoxy primer as a barrier coat then a paint of choice. <S> If you don't do all that, it will rust out and leak. <S> Hmmm, on second thought... <S> That sounds like a lot of work!! <S> If the interior paint was solid, I would be more inclined to scuff it up (as in paint prep) and use West System epoxy with adhesive filler to glue a 6"x6" or longer piece of wood or Trex... Or a metal bracket... <S> And then attach to the bracket. <S> Steel would have the advantage of the same coefficient of expansion. <A> Use magnets on your lights and hangers for a penetration free install.
|
Consider using the screws they use to attach metal roofs to attach your furring strips to the ceiling/walls.
|
How do I replace a non-standard sized AC closet door? We inherited this AC closet setup from the previous owner of the house we bought.The HVAC unit is framed in so that it's pulling the return air from the vent below. Combustible air for the furnace is supplied from a duct coming from the attic - which means (I guess) that the slats venting this door are no longer necessary. On the inside, they tried to seal off the door by installing a thin sheet of plywood across all these vents (didn't have room for a picture).The closing mechanism is just a magnetic catch by the knob, like a cabinet. The inside of the door frame measures ~30x66.5. I can't seem to find any doors this size on the websites of home improvement stores, which leads me to believe this is not a standard size and would have to be a custom job. So - how do I replace this with a door that doesn't have these ugly, dust-collecting slats? Has anyone done this before? <Q> I have done this before 28 x 54. <S> Your door width is a standard size your 'custom' issue will be the height of the door. <S> Return air duct at the floor with no baseboard .. <S> odd . <S> Anyway you purchase a prefab indoor door unit and you cut it down to size where there is no paneling design inlays. <S> Mine just happened to work out nicely - these doors are typically hollow and have a 4 board outer frame - the thickness of the door - foam might be in certain parts but not all parts. <S> So After cutting mine in the correct spot - simply separate the base frame of the bottom of the door (it is like 1 x 1 x door width) <S> put glue in the hollow area of the door and on the 1 x 1 x door width piece - you slide that into the space and clamp it down between some 1 x 3's - let it sit overnight to seal. <S> Now you have your door and you will need to make the frame or modify the frame you bought with your new door <S> (that is what I did) and the return vent sizing on your wall to fit everything nicely. <S> So I made my return air vent and the mounting and layout and then installed my door frame <S> - I knew the door size I had and measured everything and drew it all out on paper before I did anything. <S> There is a 2 x 4 at the base of my door frame that goes across and the frame sits on it. <S> Below is the finished project - I did this about a year ago <S> so I don't have the before pictures. <S> I purchased my interior door and frame from Surplus Warehouse <S> it cost me about $60.00 all inclusive. <A> Cutting a standard solid door to size can look odd if it has any panels or other decoration that will no longer be in a place that looks like they were intended to be there. <S> A few alternatives: You could just cut a solid sheet of thick, furniture-grade plywood to size and stain or paint it. <S> Furniture grade has a veneer of good wood on one side that will finish well. <S> If you plan to paint it, you won't even need furniture grade. <S> You could even add a simple frame to the outside to give it more of a door appearance. <S> Another approach that will look dressier is to use window shutters of a non-louvered design. <S> A common design incorporates raised panels like a door. <S> You may find a single shutter the right size, or you could use two shutters that each open, or a bi-fold (sink the hinges <S> so the two panels are tight when closed). <S> There are hinges that allow the panels to swing completely outside the opening rather than accordion-folding inside the opening. <A> Cover the inside of the louvered part of the door with thin plywood and seal the edges with caulk.
|
If you can't find off-the-shelf shutters the right size, there are places that will make you a custom sized one if you want a single piece that looks like a door.
|
Is it safe to run a propane appliance from a portable propane cylinder? I want to install a small propane range/stove in my cabin, but don't want the hassle & expense of a giant propane tank in the yard. With the understanding that I use a regulator and the lines have to be sealed and leak-checked, and that the orifices have to be of the proper type, is it safe and proper to run the appliance off of, say, a BBQ cylinder? In fact what I have is a tall 100lb cylinder that is full which I never use (it has a POL fitting, and I think the newer regulators come with a QCC (correct?) fitting). The other BBQ cylinders have the QCC fitting. Further ... are the pressures coming off a large, installed commercially-supplied propane tank the same as those from the regulator of a BBQ cylinder? In other words, will my appliance know any difference? <Q> Regardless, put the tank outside. <S> Plumb the house like you would for a huge tank, just bring it to an appropriate enclosure. <S> Put your swappable tank there. <S> Gas pressure is determined by the temperature of the fuel in the tank, mainly the liquid fuel since it has almost all the mass. <S> Large or small tank makes no difference. <S> Piece of bad news though. <S> Ever hear of the latent heat of vaporization? <S> 1 BTU is the energy needed to raise a pound of water 1 degree F. 140 BTU will raise it from 72F to 212F (boiling). <S> But you need to put in about 1000 more BTU to get it to turn into steam at 212F. <S> Only then, additional BTU will increase the steam temp further. <S> Same with propane. <S> The problem with a propane tank is when you draw off gaseous propane, liquid propane boils to replace the vapor pressure. <S> That boiling propane needs to get its latent heat of vaporization from somewhere. <S> It steals it from the other propane, making it colder. <S> Colder propane has a lower vapor pressure! <S> Hopefully the tank will absorb enough heat from the environment to keep your propane warm enough to give usable vapor pressure. <S> Otherwise pressure will fade. <S> Larger tank helps, as it has more surface area. <A> I want to install a small propane range/stove in my cabin, but don't want the hassle & expense of a giant propane tank in the yard. <S> Propane appliances are not a problem, but the tanks are. <S> Any propane cylinder or tank should be considered a potential hazard and not stored inside. <S> People often make exceptions for the small ~14 oz cylinders used for torches and portable stoves. <S> Hardware stores will stock those small cylinders inside the store. <S> However, tanks like the common 20 lb size used with gas BBQs aren't even allowed inside the store. <S> They're usually kept outside in steel or steel mesh cabinets that act as flame arrestors in addition to protecting the tanks. <S> If you're talking about a 100 lb cylinder, that should definitely stay outside in a protected place away from anything flammable. <S> Check out this advice on storage <S> (tank position is also important). <S> You can pipe it into the residence, though, just as you would from a buried tank (the requirements are covered by code). <S> Is it safe and proper to run the appliance off of, say, a BBQ cylinder?... <S> Are the pressures coming off a large, installed commercially-supplied propane tank the same as those from the regulator of a BBQ cylinder? <S> In other words, will my appliance know any difference? <S> The gas, itself, determines the pressure. <S> When the tank is closed, the pressure will be the same in any size tank. <S> Some of the liquefied gas converts to gaseous form until the pressure is sufficient to keep the rest in liquid form. <S> You could use a 14 oz torch cylinder, but you would run out quickly. <S> I'm not familiar with the tank regulators and fittings that are required by code for different size tanks. <S> Hopefully, someone else can address that aspect. <A> The pressures are the same but utility supplied tanks often use a 2 stage regulator. <S> At the consumer outlet of the regulator it's NPT (national pipe thread). <S> If your range is a typical household range it will also be NPT. <S> You do however need to get a regulator with NPT at the outlet (sometimes they are press fit with a hose) <S> The system will still have to be leak tight and the orifices still have the be the right size, just the same as a tank. <S> Either way you need to order it propane or convert it from NG to propane. <S> POL regulator with 3/8 NPT <S> www.amazon.com <S> POL-QCC adaptor <S> www.amazon.com <A> According to UNI code:Yes you can keep a propane thank inside, but only if room is: 1> room is neither used to sleep nor is a bathroom 2> room had a permanent opening next to the floor (6cm^2 per kW with a minimum of 100cm^2), two openings of same size (one next to floor and one next to ceiling) if the appliances is not plumbed to a flue (class A) <S> 3> storage of any LPG thank is forbidden in rooms smaller than 10m^3, in rooms up to 15m^3 <S> it's allowed to keep maximum ONE up to 15kg cylinder, if between 20m^3 and 50m^3 two cylinders (total up to 20 kg) in bigger rooms up to 30kg in total (no limit on number of cylinders) <S> 4> storage room should not be lower than ground 5 <S> > thanks must be filled up to 80%
|
The size and shape of the tank might affect how quickly the tank can replace the gas being drawn off if you were feeding a monstrous requirement, but for typical residential use, appliances won't care what kind of tank is feeding it. If you use your 100lb cylinder you can get POL regulators and also POL - QCC adaptors.
|
Painting over reversed drywall I had a painter come over to paint the garage drywall (it was reversed for some reason). https://imgur.com/V9Q5jcW https://imgur.com/Uhajs6q He used Sheetrock Dust Control to cover the nails and seal the drywall gaps. Later used 3 coats of Glidden Premium Exterior Paint for the walls and ceiling. https://imgur.com/qPcenMj https://imgur.com/2rBk6uM The result looks pretty uneven, annoyed that I spent the money on a professional and still didn't get an even looking wall paint How can I get an even paint if I have to paint over this myself <Q> Three coats of paint here is insufficient, or rather inappropriate. <S> Then one coat of primer and two coats of paint (until nice). <S> In the current condition, I'd be afraid whatever you put over will flake sooner than later due to the bad base. <S> Personnaly, I'd have gone drywall compound till nice all around sand evenly primer 2 coats. <S> I assume all those racks and shelves were removed prior to painting, right ? <A> The drywall probably isn't reversed. <S> Old drywall paper darkens with UV exposure, and many from the 80s and <S> earlier look just like that. <S> It's not intended to be a finished surface. <S> You can be sure by looking at the tapered edge joints--if there's a paper edge showing you're seeing the back side. <S> If it's smooth paper wrapped all the way around <S> it's the front. <S> The right approach was to seal the surface first with PVA primer/sealer or equivalent. <S> It would've then probably taken one coat of quality paint, or two at most, to arrive at a satisfactory finish for a garage. <S> At this point I'd prime with a good blocking sealer and repaint with just one coat, applied carefully and properly. <S> Rather, I'd expect the "professional" to do that. <A> This looks like less of a coverage problem and more of a texture/surface problem. <S> Taking a surface which is irregular in color, surface texture, absorption rate, etc. <S> -- and turning it into a surface which is uniform in all those respects -- is primer's job. <S> Since the surface is still not uniform in at least one of those things, I'd hit it with primer until it is. <S> Primer is also pigmented and it's $18/gal instead of $30+/gal. <S> Once the surface is uniform, the usual 1-2 coats of topcoat should do.
|
From the current condition, I'm not sure how much sanding would give enough for the new paint to hold. This surface needed a good sanding, and probably some ready-made drywall joint compound, to make it even and clean.
|
Is exposed wire dangerous if neutral is capped? An electrician left this in my attic with the circuit breaker on. You can see my non-contact tester lighting up. All the neutrals are capped, and the three hot wires are sticking straight up, exposed. Is this dangerous? It was like this about 2 weeks before I crawled into the attic for other reasons and noticed. The electrician is planning to return in a couple more weeks to complete the kitchen wiring, this is just after the rough-in. <Q> Just a minute. <S> Be careful assuming those are hot wires. <S> Non-contact voltage testers are notoriously over-sensitive and will read the whole box as hot if there's just one wire inducing voltage onto the others. <S> I see that one of the black wires has a cap on it. <S> He may have just disconnected several that he was working on that he didn't want to become hot. <S> It's rare to have several different Hots all in one box. <S> Usually, though not always, there's just one. <S> I use one of two different tricks with a tester like that to determine which wires are actually hot in a big cluster of wires. <S> 1 <S> , isolation method: You can dampen sympathetic signals by using your free hand to grasp the wire you want to test by its insulation a little further down from the bare end. <S> A finger and thumb is all you need. <S> Hold it away from the other wires and now lay your tester on it again. <S> If it is hot it will still indicate, if it is not a hot wire it should appear dead. <S> 2, Reduce sensitivity: lay your index finger on the opposite side of the tip of the tester when testing individual wires in a box. <S> This usually will give 90% more accurate results and cut way down on false positives. <S> I know that box looks bad being uncovered and wires splayed out like that, but I still think your electrician left it safer than it appears. <S> He probably thought he would be the next person in the attic, which was a wrong assumption, but I just don't think that he would have left hot wires wide open like that. <S> If still in doubt, you can get a multimeter and test the bare ends of the wires for voltage against the equipment grounding conductors (all bare), or against the neutral. <A> Better reading can be obtained with this kind of test-light: . <S> Touch with your finger <S> the top 'metal plate' and touch with the tip <S> the wire you think is hot. <A> It seems to me that this person is trying to find a dead circuit. <S> All to often when you open a box you will need to find the main hot wire. <S> Since there are 4 black wires and 4 white wires, more than likely one of the black wires are hot and the others are circuits leading to lights or receptacles. <S> Having someone below the ceiling to check the lights and receptacle plugs while you're in the attic is necessary to complete the job sufficiently. <S> All to often there will be one hot (black wire ) connected to a light circuit and the others go to the receptacle plugs. <S> Usually, when I run a three or four-legged circuit I will cut off a least 3/4 of the insulation to ensure that the wires will connect properly inside the wire nut. <S> Looking at the picture I noticed the ends of these wires are really short, so I can only guess that maybe there are two hot wires located inside the box that are tied too different circuits. <S> If I was going to leave the box open and couldn't complete the circuit, I would make sure that all of the wires are covered with a wire nut. <S> Using a line voltage detector also will work outside of the box checking for wires covered with insulation. <S> When I check for dead circuits I usually switch off the breaker and have someone below the ceiling to check: first for voltage, not all receptacles within a room are connected with the same breaker. <S> You may also find that a receptacle has been split into two different circuits. <S> Such as the top of the receptacle continues to go around the room to complete the circuit and the bottom part of the receptacle <S> operates a lamp with a switch located on the wall. <S> If there is no voltage then check for continuity within the circuit, where the box is located above the ceiling <S> I will connect the black and white wires together to make a continuous loop to see where the wires may be connected below. <S> This person below the ceiling will check each receptacle and light to see if they are getting a continuity reading. <S> Hope this helps.
|
As told most probably those hot are disconnected and no-touch tester is reading a false positive: easy way to discover is to measure wit a multimetre set to AC the voltage between bare ground or neutral and the exposed wires.
|
Combining Circuits to have common powerline So have individual circuits for each room in the house so each room has its own breaker as well. My main objective is to be able to use the TP-Link AV1200 powerline internet extender from the basement to the 2nd floor. Most of the breakers are 10A. I wanted to combine 2 light load circuits (Basement wall outlet which is never used and guest room wall outlets) into one circuit so they have the same powerline. Can this be done? since these circuits are basically never used, i figured combining them wouldn't do much in terms of total load. Please advise. <Q> If they both have their own exclusive neutrals or are already sharing a neutral in a mutual multiwire branch circuit it shouldn't be an issue. <S> Oh, one other thing just occurred to me. <S> You mentioned a basement wall outlet, but didn't mention whether the guest rooms are also in the basement. <S> In any case, if the basement circuit happens to be protected with a GFCI breaker, and/or the guest rooms are protected with an arc-fault breaker you could have issues. <S> You might have an issue there. <S> If only one of those I've mentioned is the case, be sure to combine the neutrals as well by pigtailing them together into the return lug on the breaker. <S> And be sure not to circumvent the NEC's safety rules for either type of location. <S> There is a dual-purpose AFCI-GFCI type of breaker manufactured to take care of both at once, but they are around $200 where I live. <A> From a safety point of view it's not going to cause a problem. <S> Whether it causes a compliance problem depends on the regulations where you live, since you don't say where you live (from your mention of 10A breakers for the sockets I would guess you do not live in the US or UK) <S> we can't give a definitive answer on that. <S> I belive that some European countries restrict the number of sockets on each breaker. <A> I have used similar powerline internet (technically "network", though for almost anyone that is for purposes of a network connected to the internet) extenders several times. <S> I have never seen a requirement that the circuits involved all be on the same breaker, and I have never bothered to check for that and never had a problem with that issue. <S> There really should not be a need for the circuits to share a breaker as the breaker is only there to handle faults (and interrupt the circuit when there is a fault) - overcurrent and possibly ground fault or arc fault. <S> However, depending on how these devices work, there MAY be an issue with phases - i.e., it may be that if all circuits (no matter how many breakers) are on the same phase that they will work OK but that if they are on different phases then they might not. <S> My suggestion is to try the powerline extenders on different circuits and see what works and what (if anything) doesn't.
|
The only situation I can think of where this might be an issue is if either or both of these circuits you want to combine is/are part of other multiwire branch circuits, meaning their neutral is shared with another circuit's neutral. Current NEC codes require arc-fault protection in bedrooms (as well as many other living spaces) and gfci protection for outlets in unfinished basement spaces.
|
home not getting 220v The power company turned off power due to late payment. The power is now on. Lights, tv, etc work. What's not working is the water pump, dryer, ac/heater. Called the power company and their side is good. So here is what I have done so far: Checked the inside house breakers, none tripped or bad. Went outside of house to breakers for ac/heater and ones for water pump. None are tripped or bad. That leaves the 100amp box/breaker just after the meter box. I have 110v and 99v coming from each leg thru the 100a breaker, checked between legs for amps and i get 20a+-. I should be getting 220-240a, right? So maybe the 100a breaker has a bad leg? Next I checked the 100a breaker where the meter box wires screw into the 100a breaker. Now here is where I'm a little confused. I checked for the volts from meter wires and the ground wire from meterbox. One leg is 120v(good), the other leg reads 0v(no power?). The eletric company says all is fine on their side. Am I testing wrong? <Q> You are mixing amps (a) and volts (v) in your description <S> so I can't tell what you have measured from that. <S> I seriously doubt you are measuring amps, so assuming you are measuring volts, having a 20V difference between the two legs indicates a serious problem with something; either your skill-set or the equipment. <S> I agree that you should exercise the main breaker a couple of times; a bug may have crawled into it while it was off, and now its squished carcass is causing a resistance. <S> After that, it's time to call an electrician. <A> Check 'leg to leg' across the main feeders (just after the meter). <S> It can be: <S> a>0V [less than 50V] <S> (this case the two legs are connected to the same tap on the transformer -> call power company), b>110V [between 90 and 130] (one leg is connected to the neutral -> call power company), c>220V [greater than 180](all should work properly) <S> Anyway, if you don't get 220V hot to hot just after the meter (a qualified electrician can sign a paper as proof), fill a written complain to your power company and ask them to fix and for a compensation on next bill because of the annoyance. <S> (suggest you to ask for half the duty as you get only half the voltage.) <A> It sounds like they ether pulled the meter or there is a meter disconnecting switch in the meter base. <S> In both cases it sounds like one leg is not making concact. <S> In the old days we used to pull meters <S> and I have had both issues with a bad connection from the meter socket or meter disconnect. <S> Not having proper voltage prior to the main disconnect needs to be repaired by the utility as most don't allow electricians to do this any longer except in an emergency.
|
If you turn all the home 240 breakers off , the low voltage on the one leg may disappear as the voltage from the one leg is traveling through the load and showing up on the leg that is not connected. -> call an electrician (failure is on your side) There should be full voltage 120 or close from each leg to ground at the meter and 240 leg to leg after the meter.
|
Tuff Shed and adding climate control I live in north TX near Fort Worth. Not a humid place but a very hot place, averaging 104 degrees in the summer outside in afternoon. I was planning to buy a Tuff Shed 16 X 20 shed with asphalt roof and a standard home door and a single small window. I contacted Tuff Shed and discussed my interest in making this a climate controlled building with air conditioning/heating unit and insulation. They said that insulating it would be something I would have to set up on my own. But, I don't know how that is possible as they pre-fabricate walls with OSB siding. Essentially 2 x 4 framing and OSB. I have a TS now and they are very solid and well built. Been in place for 11 years without issue. I would think the shed would require a climate barrier layer wholesale on the shed prior to siding. In other words a plywood layer with vapor barrier and then siding. Does that make sense? This implies that Tuff Shed may not be the best route to go but rather a custom built shed if climate control is desired. <Q> You probably don't need to worry about a vapor barrier in your climate. <S> Most building scientists recommend against them since they impede drying of the structure in at least one season of the year. <S> (They are still required for northern climate zones) <S> While it would be best to have a continuous layer of insulation under the siding, homes have been built without such for many years. <S> Between 40-50% of your energy escapes through air leaks, not insulation and while air sealing the sheathing is easiest <S> it is still possible to do a good job from the inside. <S> The best solution would be to spray foam the wall cavities, ideally with a closed cell foam. <S> This gives you a nice airtight seal, and the foam has a high R value per inch. <S> This is, however, probably cost prohibitive for a small project. <S> (If you could combine it with upgrading your home insulation it might be worth considering) <S> Basically you fill the walls with sheet foam panels that are cut slightly smaller than the width between studs. <S> The gaps are then filled with canned foam to make a nice airtight seal. <S> This gives much of the same benefits as spray foam <S> but it is slightly cheaper and more <S> DIY friendly. <S> Once you have the walls insulated you can put up a drywall or interior paneling, again working to make the system as airtight as possible. <S> If the building is nice and air tight you should be able to climate control with a mini-split heatpump and you will have a very comfortable space. <A> I did get some feedback from Tuff Shed <S> and I posed the question of "can they accommodate my request for vapor barrier" and they forwarded that onto a person who can answer it properly in a timely way. <S> They do not supply any insulation or insulation installation. <S> The only option I see so far that they offer is radiant barrier. <A> Since these are the same kinds of design challenges as a "Tiny House", you might want to cast your net a little wider, and look at actual Tiny Houses. <S> There's quite a community online. <S> People have put good design and testing into building structures that are "more than a shed". <S> You don't need all their tricks, but they can save you a bunch of time reinventing. <A> Normally the vapor barrier would be installed on the inside of the wall, but if you air condition the space, then the vapor barrier should be installed on the exterior side (which could be the moisture barrier under the siding). <S> Remember, moisture (in the form of vapor) moves from the warm side to the cool side. <S> When it hits the Dew Point, it turns to moisture. <S> Keeping the vapor out is done by correctly placing the vapor barrier on the correct side of the wall.
|
If you are handy I would recommend "poor man's spray foam". Tuff Shed is too smart to get involved with vapor barriers and insulation.
|
Why the Neutral wire is hot One of the outlet has no power in my house. I found the neutral wire is also hot like the black wire. There are only two wires, no ground wire involved. The wiring in the house is very new (~ 1 year). What would be the problem? <Q> Any plugged in and turned on device, for example a light bulb, makes a connection between the hot and the neutral. <S> This enables current to flow through the light bulb and power it. <S> If the neutral is disconnected anywhere between the light bulb and the panel, then the neutral from the light to the point of the break in the neutral will become hot (and the device will be unpowered, because no current will be flowing through it). <S> Look for a disconnected neutral. <S> If the neutral is then no longer hot, this confirms that a neutral is disconnected in the circuit. <S> For the purposes of this test, if you have any lights with 3-way switches in the circuit, you will not know if the light is switched on (and the neutral path broken so the light is not lighting) or if the light is switched off. <S> It might be best to temporarily unscrew any such bulbs. <S> Also, unplug any floor or table lamps because you can't tell it they are switched on or not. <S> There could be a loose neutral at any connection of the neutrals in wall boxes or at the neutral connection block in the electrical panel. <S> Check the wall receptacle boxes first. <S> Look for evidence of heating of a neutral wire or a loose neutral wire. <S> Are your wires connected to the receptacles by "back stabs" into the receptacles or are they looped around the screws? <S> Do you have copper or aluminum conductors in this circuit? <A> Because the neutral wire is broken -- but a load is still plugged in downstream, connecting neutral to hot. <S> See the first two illustrations in my answer here , where I describe how it normally works. <A> somewhere down the line the neutral got connected to a hot instead of the neutral. <S> Trace back the wire and fix that.
|
To test whether you have a broken neutral, turn off everything in the circuit which has the hot neutral.
|
Chemical Smell After Tankless Water Heater Install I recently had a plumbing company install a tankless water heater in my crawlspace. Everything with the install works and looks great, but we are experiencing a very strong chemical smell (like nail-polish remover or a strong sharpie marker) that comes out of our faucets when we call for hot water. It usually lasts for about 10 seconds then goes away. I notice it whenever we haven't used the hot water for awhile. For example: the smell is very strong first thing in the morning when turning on the shower. The plumbers used PEX pipes to install a hot water recirculation pipe that is soldered to the original copper pipes. Other PEX pipes were soldered where they needed to connect to some other areas of the copper pipes including a new Pressure Reducing Valve. Does anyone have any insight or advice on what could be causing this issue? Thanks, Mike <Q> Update: We are still not sure what caused the issue, but we had the plumbing company come out and do a vinegar wash of the entire system. <S> This worked and the smell is gone. <A> I think it is burn-in of the heater from something inside the heat-exchanger since the wet side is a closed system. <S> Believe I'm perplexed by the same problem, so <S> let me expand to establish that we have the same complaint <S> and I believe the same root cause. <S> If those assumptions hold, our system similarities are of more interest and the differences are candidates to be dismissed. <S> I put in a new propane-fired tankless water heater with integral recirculation pump and remote cross-over valve 4 weeks ago on CPVC piping in the garage. <S> You can't smell it at the heater, and it takes a while to pass through the pipes to the fixture (sink/shower) depending on the length of the pipe run. <S> The smell only comes from hot water, so it is not coming from my well water (are you on well or public?). <S> The smell goes away in a few seconds. <S> To me, there are still logic problems with this answer. <S> If true, it would seem the complaint would be far more widespread and discussed online. <S> Also, I hope to distinguish between water that's been sitting in the heat exchangers leeching the smell from sitting versus some smell coming from initial heating. <S> I plan to do a test allowing water to sit overnight then disable the heater and run the hot water and see if it still stinks. <S> Note that the burner cannot in my opinion contaminate the water and the smell is IN THE WATER. <S> Pipe dope from supply piping could contaminate the heat exchanger, but I found no residue on the inlet screen whatsoever. <S> Also note, we are NOT talking about iron or manganese induced rotten egg-smell <A> It's the PEX tubing!! <S> I just had some added when I had a whole house filtration system put in. <S> Pex leaches over 150 chemicals. <S> Now I'm back to ground <S> zero <S> and I have to get it taken out and replaced with copper. <S> It does smell worse with hot water running. <S> Mine smells like pure plastic. <S> The plumber adding the PEX tubing to my line and it defeated my whole purpose of having cleaner water. <S> Now it's going to cost me an arm and a leg to get them to take it out and replace it with copper. <S> PEX should be banned!
|
After the heater has been idle for a while, the water that has been sitting in it gets a strong chemical smell.
|
What do flanged power inlets attach to? What does a flanged inlet like the one in the picture mount on/attach too? I need to mount it on a 1 or 2 gang standard receptacle box. Does it need a certain type of mounting plate? <Q> Physically you could almost certainly cut a hole in a blank box cover and then bolt the inlet to it. <S> Whether that would comply with regulations in your country or whether you need to look for an inlet that is specifically designed for installation rather than equipment use <S> I could not say. <A> There are several "listed" methods for mounting flanged devices, you can use a box cover single gang for a 20 amp device as shown <S> but I like double gang boxes to provide enough space. <S> When I am adding a generator I will usually use a hole saw / or knockout set to create the correct size hole. <S> I do not like using pre punched tko holes as these inlets get used they get weak and sometimes break out. <A> This fits in a round hole for a 250 volt 20 amp supply cord to plug into a specific tool/ device or piece of equipment. <S> It's handing if you ever need it. <S> Namaste.
|
Flanged devices like that would usually be mounted to a piece of equipment, a hole would be cut in the panel of the equipment and then the flange would be screwed/bolted to the panel .
|
Why does Knob and Tube need an air gap? I know that knob and tube wiring needs an air gap to dissipate heat. I know that modern sheathed cable does not need an air gap. I know both are made of copper, one is grounded, one not. So why does one need an air gap and one does not? <Q> The air gap isn't primarily about heat. <S> It's about electrical insulation. <S> The fabric mesh that was used as insulation was not reliable, and could allow arcing and short circuits (especially if moisture comes into play). <S> It's sort of the same principle you see in overhead power lines. <S> One could argue that there is a safety factor in the air gap with respect to heat, but the simple fact is that an electrical overload will heat the wires much faster than air could cool them anyway. <S> This could allow the wires to burn or melt, or ignite combustible materials which they contact. <A> If this is about blown insulation, several western states repealed their codes prohibiting blown insulation over knob and tube. <S> Better science showed the large pool of such houses were not bursting into flames as the prognosticators had claimed. <A> The "air gap" theory is a myth. <S> The size of wire used for K&T is the same as for modern wire, plus the joints are better. <S> Rest assured if you have 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse, you're fine. <S> If you have 14 gauge wire and a 15 amp fuse you're fine. <S> From Home Energy Magazine ' Knob and Tube Not a Fire Hazard ': <S> Legislation was enacted in Washington state to allow insulating over knob-and-tube wiring per Bonneville Power Administration (BPA) specifications. <S> This resulted because there were no documented cases of a fire being caused by knob-and-tube wiring, whether insulation covered it or not. <S> See <S> also https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/20279/5960 K&T has huge advantages when it comes to driven staples and nails, and fire. <S> It has theoretical downsides if blown in insulation gets wet. <S> K&T wire insulation varies in quality from great to really bad -- but <S> fortunately the K&T system does not require wire insulation.
|
The real issues are that most knob and tube circuits are undersized for the modern need, so many homeowners (and some electricians) upsized the fuses.
|
Could I use a pressure washer with a well pump? Could I use a pressure washer on a house with a well pump? Should I be concerned about the pump running for a long period of time i.e. 4 hours? half a day while we wash the outside of the house? <Q> Experience showed that the well pump water pressure is set to match most "city" water's pressure which is between 50 and 60. <S> Our pump was set to 50 and the pressure washer we purchased is 1750 ps1. <S> We connected the pressure washer and it worked without issues. <A> Most consumer-grade pressure washers require the input water to be at least in the low range of typical household pressure from a municipal water supply. <S> It also needs to be continuous; if a well can't keep up with the demand, you'll destroy the pressure washer. <S> But, there's an option: <S> operate from a tank of water with a pressure washer that can operate with a siphon feed. <S> Even small gas pressure washers typically use 2.5 - 3.5 gpm, so 4 hours of run time would require on the order of a 600 - 900 gallon or larger tank. <S> But a gas pressure washer can clean a large area quickly, so <S> you may not need 4 hours of run time. <S> Electric washers use half of that. <S> You prefill the tank at a convenient time. <S> You can also fill it with captured rain water, like from your downspouts, that you filter REALLY well. <S> While most consumer pressure washers can't operate from a siphon, there are a few that can. <S> For example the high-end Karcher machines can , and they sell a siphon adapter kit for them. <S> If you can rely on your well for continuous volume at around 2 gpm, you could feed a siphon-capable electric washer without needing a tank or worrying about run time. <A> I do it. <S> Your instinct is correct. <S> I try not to 'exercise' the pump more than four hours a day. <S> It runs a lot when Pressure Washing. <S> Take some coffee breaks. <A> You have a simple engineering problem. <S> The house <S> well pump has to be able to put out enough water to handle the house loads, plus the washer. <S> I would look for about a 25 to 30% buffer in capacity over the well pump output capability and the pressure washer needs. <S> All bets are off if everyone in the house decides to fill a tub at once, while the dishwasher and clothes washer are filling. <S> Your best bet is to look at name plates and correlate the model of pump, with the depth of your well. <S> It would be good to run your garden hose wide open for 15 to 30 minutes and measure the flow. <S> If you well has a low capacity, it may not be the well pump that it the issue, it may be that the well continually drops in pressure as the level lowers, and the GPM output also keeps dropping. <S> Let's say you are lucky <S> and you estimate that your well pumps out 15 GPM and <S> your pressure washer needs 5 GPM. <S> Than assuming that your bathtubs don't all fill at once, you may be just fine. <S> Because well outputs, pumps and pressure washers vary quite a bit you have to do some work getting data by lookup or by experimentation. <S> Some wells produce more sand and clay than others. <S> Sand is bad for power washers. <S> So check the screen after 10 minutes and probably quite frequently afterwards to make certain you are getting clean water, without abrasive particulates. <S> Also keep in mind that as a well gets drawn down, the sand content may go up. <S> So the issue is to make sure that your supply side can handle your consumption side, and that the quality of the water will not become adverse at your usage level. <S> To merely run the pressure washer because someone else down the road could, is asking for an expensive repair to the power washer pump. <S> In summary, Does the well have sufficient capacity? <S> Does the well pump have sufficient continuous capacity? <S> Is the well water, throughout the usage cycle, of sufficient quality (regarding sand and other particulates)? <S> Will the overall system output have sufficient margin, to run the household and the washer for the time desired?
|
Make sure your pressure washer has a good inlet screen.
|
What is this black sooty material on the inside of my roller shutter? I have a bedroom window that looks out over the east (a backyard with mostly tiles and little plants) with a roller shutter which over the past couple of years has gotten a serious buildup of some sort of black soot, which I can't really figure out where it comes from. Below are a couple of pictures. Apologies for the reflection of my bedroom, I can't open 2 of the windows and the 3rd has a mosquito screen which I'd rather not remove now that those critters are appearing again. This soot covers pretty much the entire side of the shutters and I'm worried it might be more than that based on a question on here about black mold that looks suspiciously like what I have. Only thing is my shutters are plastic, not wood. If this is black mold, would it be safest to just have the entire shutter plus the casing side of my bedroom replaced? <Q> Looks like fungus of some sort. <S> It grows on many surfaces. <S> Try household cleaners and a sponge. <S> There are many types of mold, and the hysteria surrounding them is often unwarranted . <S> Mold spores are everywhere, and only a very specific type is potentially dangerous, and only in significant quantities. <S> The term “toxic mold” is not accurate. <S> While certain molds are toxigenic, meaning they can produce toxins (specifically mycotoxins), the molds themselves are not toxic, or poisonous. <S> Hazards presented by molds that may produce mycotoxins should be considered the same as other common molds which can grow in your house. <S> There is always a little mold everywhere – in the air and on many surfaces. <S> There are very few reports that toxigenic molds found inside homes can cause unique or rare health conditions such as pulmonary hemorrhage or memory loss. <S> These case reports are rare, and a causal link between the presence of the toxigenic mold and these conditions has not been proven. <S> Basically, if it can be cleaned up it's not a serious issue. <S> You wouldn't throw away an item that can be wiped clean. <A> <A> This is indeed black mold . <S> We had the same problem at home because: A vent is built between the shutter box and our bedroom. <S> The shutter box wasn't insulated at all: the lath was cold and had a large surface in a small volume. <S> It was basically a perfect condenser . <S> Our HVAC wasn't properly set up and the mechanical ventilation wasn't strong enough to stop the warm, humid indoor air flowing through the shutter box. <S> Condensed water and mold were trapped inside the box. <S> Whenever the outside air would come into the bedroom through the vent, it was already humid and filled with mold spores. <S> It was really hard to keep the relative humidity below 60% <S> and I developped a mold allergy. <S> It might be worth it to ask an HVAC expert to see if your problem isn't a structural one. <S> The box got insulated, we cleaned the laths and we installed better mechanical ventilation; we heated a bit more and we ventilate the whole flat more often. <S> We don't have any problems any more. <A> A microscope examination of scrapings by a qualified analyst would settle the question of whether this is mold or not. <S> Someone might have used graphite powder to lubricate the mechanism of the shutter. <S> If you want to do some testing yourself, you could scrape some of the black material off the shutter and into a glass dish. <S> Then put a drop of chlorine bleach on it. <S> The black color of mold (or any organic dye) will be bleached by the chlorine bleach whereas mineral pigments will not be bleached out. <S> Another way to test the black substance is to wet a Q-tip and repeatedly wipe the black substance onto the Q-tip, then dip the Q-tip in a small amount of concentrated bleach in a little dish. <S> Wait and see if the black color is bleached out. <A> Do you burn a lot of candles? <S> Candle soot is a real nuisance, especially those heavily scented ones in jars. <S> I quit burning candles when I began experiencing soot stains around the house. <S> I'm afraid I don't have any suggestions how to clean your shutters, but once you do get them clean (or replace them with new ones), please read this: Candle soot
|
Clean it up with bleach and a sponge (chlorine is the main ingredient of mold-cleaners). If your home is humid (RH >55%) consider installing a dehumidfier so with less moisture you get less mold. The only other thing that comes to my mind is graphite powder.
|
Suggestions for properly mounting 4' shop light Suggestions for installing two 4 ft LED flush mount shop lights in unfinished basement ceiling perpendicular to floor joists (see pictures)? Specifically, what ceiling box to use and would you mount LED light directly to joists or install something over joists then LED light. The pictures show the two areas that I will install LED lights. There used to be a hanging fluorescent shop light in first picture. In 2nd picture I am replacing the single chain light. I'll feed both LED lights from a single pole switch I'll install. <Q> Replace that goofy Edison socket with a coverplate for a receptacle. <S> Now you have a dual receptacle that is switched by the garage light switch. <S> Hang the lamps by chains. <S> And then plug their plugs into the receptacle. <S> It gives you the versatility to move the lights around to suit, and allows easy swap or addition of a fixture. <S> Flexible cordage, as a replacement for fixed wiring, is only allowed in certain cases -- luminaires are one of them. <S> It is legal to use plug and socket when the plug is accessible (e.g. not behind a drop ceiling, unless your AHJ authorizes that). <A> When I mount a shop light across unfinished joists, I just screw the fixture directly to the joists. <S> My lights can be disassembled from the front, so I mounted the back plate first and then attached the front. <S> I use at least four screws in a rectangle. <S> This prevents wobbling. <A> I have exactly this scenario over my basement and garage workbenches. <S> Just screw the fixture to the joists over the box so that the fixture is tight to the box. <S> You can either move the box up flush with the bottom of the joist or add spacers behind the fixture where you place the screws. <S> As long as everything is tight together and things can't move around you <S> should have no code or safety issues.
|
Some of my lights are parallel to the joists, so I placed 3" x 3/4" strips across the joists and screwed the back plate to that.
|
Is there a functional difference between a $200 freestanding grill and a $2000 built-in grill? We are planning on potentially building a budget outdoor kitchen in our pool area. As part of that process we'd like to add a nice-looking built-in grill. However, upon starting to price-shop online I'm finding that built-ins seem to come with a pricetag approximately 5x - 10x that of a similarly-featured free-standing grills from a big box store. I now find myself wondering if it makes more sense to build an alcove for a freestanding grill (our $200 freestanding grill is finally giving out on us after 12 years). Is there an actual functional or reliability difference to these extremely expensive grills that will make up for the cost difference (other than the built-in appearance)? Or is this much like wedding cakes or wedding photography, where the word "wedding" (or "built-in") quintuples the price for an otherwise similar product? My experience has been that such large price premiums are usually justified by something, but without knowing what that 'something' is it's difficult to determine if it's worth the cost for us. <Q> Using the microwave oven as an example, which I actually have some experience with. <S> A typical countertop (i.e., not built-in) <S> microwave oven is typically designed NOT to be fixed in pretty much any way. <S> If a switch, fuse, motor, etc. fails then generally it is both hard to fix, if it is at all possible to safely do so. <S> A built-in microwave oven is designed like a conventional oven - serviceable, wiring diagram usually included, parts available from traditional supply houses or online. <S> Fire (don't ask...) in a built-in microwave oven - find the thermal fuses and replace them. <S> Fire in a countertop microwave oven - throw it away and get another one. <S> Bad heating element in a conventional built-in oven - replace the element. <S> Bad heating element in a countertop toaster oven - replace the appliance. <S> There are also sometimes other differences as well. <S> I can't say for sure what the differences are with BBQ grills. <S> I suspect there are some differences in terms of serviceability, quality of construction, durability, etc. <S> Whether they are worth 5x <S> the price is another story. <S> Part of the difference in price is of course due to mass production - if you can produce 100,000 grills instead of 10,000, you can definitely amortize the design, tooling and other production costs and get the grills out the door for a lot less. <A> Less demand = higher price. <S> As free-standing is the lion in home-BBQ <S> it's <S> price is lower due to bigger market competition. <S> If I had to decide I'll go for a free-standing: it's cheaper, easier to clean (I use the high pressure washer used for my car) <S> and I can bring it with me when I have pic-nics. <A> People who want it built-in are willing to pay more. <S> Look at the price of a stand-alone microwave -vs- a built-in one. <S> Or a hotplate to a jenn-air. <S> Or a blowup pool to an in-ground. <S> You get the idea...
|
There MAY be some real differences.
|
Inducer Motor spins up then shuts down Upon starting the heat cycle the inducer motor spins up then shuts down it does this sometimes 3 or 4 times before the burners lite. Sometimes even after the burners lite it seems to shut down prematurely. I have replaced the flame sensor and the air pressure switch to no avail. York furnace. model - gy8s080a12uh11c Video of issue . Problem starts at 30 second mark . <Q> First off, it is the draft inducer motor that is turning on then shutting off, not the blower. <S> There is no possibility that it is the flame sensor or the pressure switch since neither items had been called for yet. <S> Order of operation:1 thermostat calls for heat2 inducer motor is called for and starts spinning3 draft is proven via the pressure switch. <S> If the pressure switch was bad the motor would just keep spinning with no ignition4 igniter will ignite 5 gas valve will open and burners will ignite 6 flame sensor will complete circuit to ground via flame rectification. <S> If it doesn’t sense flame it will stay lit for about 3 seconds then go out. <S> 7 blower will come on. <S> Your furnace only got to step 2 so the problem is before that. <S> Check for voltage at the inducer motor. <S> Best to use alligator clips and see if voltage drops out when the motor disengages. <S> If voltage stays constant the problem is in the motor. <S> If voltage drops to 0 then your problem is elsewhere. <S> Jumper the W and R thermostat terminals at the circuit board to eliminate the thermostat or thermostat wires as the problem. <S> If it is still happening then the problem is either the circuit board or a loose wire between the circuit board and the inducer motor. <A> The problem is more than likely not your board. <S> If not replace the capacitor. <A> It's a cracked heat exchanger. <S> Check the flame sensor. <S> Take wire leads off of it and alligator clip the wire leads together and it should kick on. <S> Watch your flames because they are liable to shoot right back out at you. <A> I appreciate the comments from user76830 to understand the firing sequence. <S> I tried his troubleshooting suggestions with everything <S> okay. <S> I have a Goodman GNH80904BNAA. <S> Having the same problem as described (Inducer motor kicks out immediately at start). <S> New control board did not solve the problem. <S> Status light goes off when problem occurs and resets (light on) for next try. <S> I tried bypassing the pressure switch. <S> Inducer starts every time with both switch disconnected (get 2 blink warning for open pressure switch) and switch bypassed (get 3 blink warning for stuck closed pressure switch). <S> So I supposed there was a problem with the pressure switch. <S> With the pressure switch disconnected, on operation of the inducer motor, I sometimes got a resistance of 400 ohms and another time got 1.5 ohms (Correct, low resistance circuit) <S> so I figure the contacts in the pressure switch are dirty or worn and the high resistance (poor contact) <S> is faulting the control board. <S> So, a new pressure switch for me!
|
It's the inducer motor, more specifically the start/run capacitor. Try removing the capacitor, shorting it out across both terminals and then making sure the resistance is within tolerance.
|
How can I pull up tack strips nailed to concrete? I am pulling up carpet and putting down a floating, vinyl plank floor in a three-season room built on slap. The tack strips are nailed into the concrete. I see How to repair concrete damage from pulling up nail strips but am looking for advice on the easiest way to get the tack strips up to begin with. Any thoughts? <Q> Jim and Taylor are correct. <S> Use a small pry par because it is not as thick and will get under the tack strip better. <S> Hold the the long straight part or the pry bar and place the curved end so that the but is against the floor and the wedge part is up against the tack strip directly in front of the nail . <S> Whack the the curved part of the pry bar with a hammer, it usually only takes one or two hits to pop up the nail. <S> It helps to hold the bar at an angle so the bar goes under the strip and to not hit to hard, sometimes you can drive the end of the bar into the wall or trim if you get to aggressive. <A> Prybar, hammer, elbow grease. <S> There are many prybar styles, but this is the one I would choose. <A> I use a prybar and hammer the end of the bar parallel to the floor. <S> I removed a bunch of tack strip from a slab floor and experimented with various techniques. <S> we were thinking about staining the concrete and hoped to get the tack strips up with minimal damage, but nothing would do it. <S> I have read that driving the hardened nails into the concrete in the first place fractures the concrete <S> and so there is no way to remove the nails and leave only a nail sized hole. <S> Perhaps tack strips installed on barely set concrete could be coaxed out with only a nail sized hole.
|
Do not pry up once the nail is free as this will splinter or break the strip at the next nail location, just continue whacking all the nails and when you get them all the whole tack strip will be free and easy to dispose of.
|
Outlet giving off a burning smell There is an electrical outlet in a room in my house giving off a strange smell. It smells kindof burnt? It happens almost immediately when something is plugged in/turned on and I promptly turn off/unplug every time so I don't know what might happen if left on/plugged in for an extended period of time (and the outlet is in my young daughter's bedroom so I'm not too inclined to find out). If something is plugged in and off (like a lamp in the off position), the smell does not happen. But if it's plugged in and turned on (lamp turned on or something like an alarm clock that has no on/off switch and is thus always "on"), the smell comes within about 30-60 seconds and is quite strong. We've tested this on a number of different things to conclude it's the outlet and not the thing being plugged in. My husband replaced the receptacle and cleaned the dust & debris out of the box, but the problem persists. He noted that there was no discoloration of the receptacle, wires, or the box, though there did appear to be some mild corrosion on the wires he believed to be the result of arcing. The thing was old, but otherwise appeared normal. Any ideas what the problem could be and how we can fix it? <Q> If you've replaced the outlet and are still getting the burning smell, then there is a serious fault in the wiring that needs to be corrected before you use the outlet again. <S> Unfortunately, if the inside of the junction box and all the visible wiring looks good, then finding and repairing the fault could require tracing house wiring inside your walls, which usually means making holes in the walls 1 . <S> But before you go that far, look inside all the adjacent outlet boxes, even the ones on the other side of the wall 2 . <S> Outlets are often chained together and when one doesn't work it can be a fault in that outlet box or in the previous one. <S> Please let us know how this is resolved. <S> Many posters come here to ask about a fatally dangerous condition and are never heard from again. <S> It makes me wonder how many people I've killed with my advice. <S> Or just keep using the outlet, and eventually the fire departmentwill make the holes for you. <S> I know, you said the smell is just around the one outlet, but checkanyway. <A> When you work on finding the source of this kind of issue you must stick with it, otherwise you could come home and find your place in flames. <S> If you feel you don't have the skills to do the "full" troubleshooting for this kind of issue <S> I highly recommend to call the professionals immediately. <S> Don't leave the home until they get there. <S> The next lull in troubleshooting may be too late. <S> It may sound like I am trying to scare you. <S> And I sort of am, but only for you to take immediate action. <S> Otherwise you could be playing with fire. <S> Would like to wish you good luck with finding the problem, but it needs more than luck. <S> Only skill will help you. <A> You have vinyl curtains <S> These can have a smell like burnt plastic when heated by sunlight. <S> If you can only smell it on sunny days If you can smell it on sunny days with the power turned off If you can only smell it in a room that is getting direct sunlight <S> If the smell is more prominent when the curtains are pulled down. <S> You should still check all outlets. <S> But if you can't find any wiring issues, stick your face in the curtains and give them a sniff. <S> There are a few methods for trying to clean them , but the issue should be harmless.
|
Check for things like outlets that are warm to touch, outlets with blackened ends, and other indications of unsafe wiring. This is not an item to spend time on and off for troubleshooting. Be sure to call in professional help if you are not certain that you have found the problem. This is a serious matter. Here are some things to check:
|
How do I ground a new outlet that only has the black/white wires? I am adding a new outlet but want to make sure it is correctly grounded. I have outlet A that I am going to be creating a new outlet B. I tested A and it says it is grounded and want to ground outlet B the same way. How do I see how outlet A is grounded and do the same as B if there is no grounding wire? I am assuming that it is grounded through the metal outlet box. <Q> You can Install a GFCI outlet that has an 'equivalent' protection to be used in outlets where PE is not present. <A> You appear to have metal shielded cable ("bx cable") to the box. <S> In some jurisdictions, the metal jacket of the conduit is or used to be an acceptable ground. <S> Consult an electrician to verify. <A> The box is grounded, just not <S> well <S> While the armor of old type BX cables does not meet modern grounding standards, it is grounded, so it's best that you use it instead of ignoring it.
|
A self-grounding receptacle (it will have little clips on the yoke that bear against the mounting screws) should be used here, and the ground wires in any cables you are running from there should be made up to a ground screw on the box.
|
How to pick the correct white? After repairing some damage to a wall , I need to re-paint the repaired area to match the rest of the wall. I have been given the wrong colour by a shop assistant and it has made it worse (See photo). The paint he's given me is British Standard white, which looks like cream and not white at all. The one I got is no good either (pure brilliant white, gloss high sheen), because it's too "shiny" and you can see it's a different colour if you don't look straight at the wall. I was hoping 1) to get some advice on the "gloss" or "sheen" issue (I don't even know what that means), 2) again, how do people figure out which shade of white without having somebody physically there? <Q> I was hoping 1) to get some advice on the "gloss" or "sheen" issue <S> (I don't even know what that means), <S> As well as the colour, the appearance of a painted wall is affected by how smooth and reflective the paint surface is. <S> Paints come in matt, silk, gloss and other degrees of shinyness. <S> You probably want a matt finish as that <S> is what a high proportion of British homes use on their walls. <S> Note that people usually use gloss finish on woodwork. <S> You should expect to find matt emulsion on your walls, gloss paint is usually oil-based and intended for woodwork, not for painting on plastered masonry walls. <S> 2) again, how do people figure out which shade of white without having somebody physically there? <S> By taking a sample to the store and asking them to match it. <S> This can be needed because paint colours are fashion items and may become discontinued. <S> Also, painted colours can change over time due to exposure to sunlight and other influences. <S> Unfortunately, taking a chunk of your wall to a store is impractical. <S> You may be able to scrape off a sample if the paint, or a layer underneath, hasn't fully adhered. <S> A chip <S> roughly one inch square will be enough. <S> or By buying test pots until you find an acceptable match. <A> Sounds like you need a matt finish, not gloss high sheen . <S> Or maybe a silk finish which is shinier than matt but not as shiny as high sheen. <S> See this Dulux help page for more details. <S> I assume you've let it dry completely. <S> If not you might find that the colour changes as it dries. <S> If you can't figure it out, find a shop where they actually know about paint, tell them exactly what you were given, describe why it wasn't suitable. <S> Or keep trying tester pots until you find the right one. <S> Since you don't have the original paint but really want an even finish, you might need to paint the whole wall. <A> In the USA, big box home stores have little slips of paper that have the name of the color and an example of the color. <S> We used that to successfully match paint.
|
It could also be down to the way you applied the paint: patching up using a paint brush leaves a different texture to using a roller. Stores often have a machine for mixing paints to an exact match.
|
How can I prevent an exterior GFCI outlet from tripping so often? Presently I have a GFCI (120V) located on an outlet in my utility room of the house. From this outlet on the LOAD side, I have a #12 3 wire cable running in Schedule 40 conduit underground 150 feet to a pole outside in my yard. Things worked Ok for a while but now the GFCI trips all the time. I unplugged the spot lights from the outside outlet box (protected by code with weatherproof plastic cover box), but the GFCI still trips. I am wondering if I should connect the Ground wire to a ground rod at the pole due to the long cable run which may have enough resistance to make the GFCI trip? I have replaced the GFCI inside the house, same result, checked the cable, no shorts or high resistance shorts. Can't figure this out ! <Q> This is against the code and is very dangerous. <S> For underground wiring, you want to use UF-B cable. <S> You should have used scehdule 80 for the conduit as it is thicker and stronger. <S> Schedule 40 PVC conduit can break easier and may be what happened. <S> Depending on how deep you buried it, the conduit could have broke and damaged the cable. <S> If you used standard romex cable underground, that could be causing a ground fault because the paper insulation in the cable can wick water. <S> A big clue is that everything was working for a while <S> and then it started to trip. <S> Look for what has changed since it started to trip. <S> Did you drive something heavy over the area the conduit is buried? <S> Was there recent flooding? <S> But to reiterate my first comment, DO NOT GROUND THE GFCI TO A SEPARATE GROUND ROD! <S> The circuit breakers will not properly trip during a short circuit condition in this situation. <A> Problem found ! <S> First, I checked the resistance between all the three conductors. <S> In order for a GFCI to trip, it takes only 5mA, so that would equate to about 24K ohms. <S> There were no high resistance shorts. <S> The problem turned out to be one or both LB's that were in the ground. <S> Not so. <S> After heavy rains or Spring thaws,water seeped into the LB's and would cause the GFCI to trip. <S> When dry, no problem. <S> I have since rectified this problem with sweep elbows. <S> Thanks for all the suggestions guys, much appreciated. <A> Maybe cable get rotten or moisture got in the outside outlet. <S> If a GFCI trips, it trips because there is a current leak. <S> if it doesn't you have a problem on outside wiring, if it keeps tripping you have to replace the GFCI.
|
Although the paper is not touching the copper of the line and neutral in romex, if water is in the conduit, the cable could have deteriorated and could be shorting to ground slightly. This is rated for direct burial or use in conduit. Do not connect the ground wire to a ground rod at the pole! You can try going at inside GFCI box, disconnect the cable going outside and see if still trip, I did not have any sweep elbows, and thought that gasket-ed LB's would be OK.
|
How to make a long straight cut in a board at an angle? I have a board about 1.5" thick and 12" wide and 8 feet long. I need to cut the board diagonally and want the cut to be as straight as possible. (I am cutting the board diagonally. This does not involve a bevel cut.) How can I do that? I have a circular saw and a small portable table saw. I can buy equipment, but nothing large. I cannot buy a giant table saw with an 8' bed, for example. (I do not think using outriggers with the portable table saw will work, because I have tried that before and it is not feasible to keep a board straight while feeding it 8 feet onto saw horses.) <Q> Sawhorses with a board on top to form a makeshift table, then your green board on top, and a straight aluminum ruler (up to 3m, in most hardware stores) fastened with clamps to the green board parallel to the cut with an offset as big as your circular saw is wide? <S> Or is your circular saw fastened to a saw-table? <S> . <S> image: <S> amazon.com Alternately use a very straight board clamped to the work as a guide for the saw. <A> A great thing to have on hand is a zero-tolerance circular saw guide. <S> You can make one (I have multiples in different lengths) with a couple of boards you can get at a big box stores, some glue and a few screws (optional). <S> Get a length of MDF board. <S> Something like this <S> : You want this to be dead straight <S> so you'll want to buy it in this form. <S> I would go with the wider pieces but it depends on what you need. <S> Don't get it too thick or it will limit the depth of your cut. <S> Then take a piece of thin plywood that is as long as your MDF board and at least as wide as the MDF plus the with of your saw base. <S> Glue the MDF to the plywood like shown in the following picture from this article with instructions : <S> The article suggests different materials but <S> the MDF plus plywood worked for me. <S> Then take your saw and put the base up against the MDF fence and cut the wide side of the guide. <S> Now you have a zero-tolerance jig that you can clamp down and know that your cut will be dead straight and exactly on the edge of the guide. <S> Place the guide on the side of the piece you wish to keep if possible. <S> If you are forced to put the guide on the waste side of the cut, make sure you consider the kerf of your blade. <S> Clamp in place <S> (I like quick-clamps for this) and you can't miss. <A> I had a bunch of super-oblique cuts to do like that. <S> I did this: Mark the board <S> the way you want it cut, clearly (not pencil on pine, but more like Sharpie, use pencil to get the line adjusted.) <S> Optional: Attach the board to a piece of scrap, such that the straight edge of the scrap is perfectly parallel to the line you want to cut. <S> Take it to the lumberyard and have them cut it for you on their big table saw for $1. <S> Big-box stores in malls with large, well-lit parking lots and neon signs are not lumberyards. <S> Nor would I trust any of their $9/hour clerks to make such a cut properly if they had the saw, which they do not. <S> A lumberyard has a small parking lot where you're 30 feet from their front door, a small shop with yet most of the selection of a big-box, and a huge backlot loaded with saws and every kind of lumber. <S> Prices are competitive.
|
In your specific situation, I would mark the line you want and then take the guide and line up the edge of the guide parallel with your marking.
|
In knob and tube wiring, how to identify neutral wire vs a dead wire? I'm in the US, Ohio if that matters. I have an old house with many circuits still on K&T wiring. I haven't been able to find information on how to identify a neutral wire - most guides just tell you how to identify hot wires, and whatever is left must be neutral. Some of my K&T wires are disconnected but still in the wall. Is there a way to identify which ones are neutral vs the ones that are simply disconnected from the electrical box in the basement? Thanks. <Q> Plug in an extension cord, and bring its socket end up to where you're working. <S> 120ish volts - it's a neutral. <S> Significantly less - phantom voltage on a dead wire. <S> To sanity check <S> what "120ish" volts should be, measure hot v neutral on the extension cord itself. <A> I have worked on many old. <S> K&T homes the best method is with a wiggi, not used much today but a low Z meter will work. <S> Just as well for residential voltages <S> , in my experiance Watch out, I had a home in Dayton that was totally backwards , Wayne avenue. <S> 2 houses from the theater if it is still there. <S> One conductor will be connected to the hot or 120v line, the other is connected to ground, the best method I found back then when analogue meters were the standard was to measure the voltage from a water pipe to one wire and then compare this with the pipe to the other conductor the highest voltage was the hot. <A> I am assuming you don't have a circuit tracer, but that would be the method I would use. <S> The only other method I could think of would be to check it with a continuity tester and a really long wire. <S> You could connect the wire onto the neutral bus, turn the phase conductors off, then go around and check each conductor. <S> The ones you get a "ring" from are the connected neutrals. <S> Everything else is a hot or a disconnected wire. <S> This seems a little awkward <S> but you are going to have to get some sort of address signal to ring through the neutrals. <S> Maybe someone has a different approach.
|
Measure voltage from extension cord "hot" to the mystery wire.
|
How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two paint colors meet? I am about to renovate my room. A part of this plan includes painting all but one wall and the ceiling white, the other wall will be bright green. My walls are lightly textured and if this makes any difference, the original surface under most of the walls is plaster and lathe (with the exception of the wall being painted green, which is drywall). The surface I will actually be painting over will be the previous coating of yellow semi-gloss paint that is about 20 years old. So here's my question... How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two colors meet (keeping mind that these are semi-gloss walls and are textured)? <Q> Use painters tape (blue tape, Frog tape, lots of different names and brands) to mask off the areas you don't want to paint green. <S> First, paint your ceiling and 3 walls white (2 or 3 coats, however many are needed) and wait for the paint to dry. <S> Then, apply the painters tape to those walls and ceiling as close to the 4th wall as possible. <S> Next, and this is the most important part, go back with the white paint and "seal" the edge of the tape with a light thin coat. <S> Failure to do this will lead to green paint bleeding under the tape, and you'll wind up with sloppy lines at the corners. <S> Textured walls are a pain... <S> Once the white paint is dry, go ahead and paint with the green, using however many coats you need. <S> Peel off the tape carefully and enjoy! <S> Most painters tape says to peel off within 14 days, so you could tackle this project over two weekends if needed. <S> Also, if you seal the tape with too thick of a coat, some of that paint could come up when you peel the tape off, so don't glob it on. <A> In my experience, tape just doesn't do that well. <S> Even if you get a clean line, you're at the mercy of the tape's shape, and it's following the texture. <S> It often ends up looking artificially sharp and jaggy. <S> Instead, use what I call the twitch technique, which is a variation of the standard cut-in. <S> Load your brush on one side, just an inch deep or so. <S> Press the loaded side to the wall and flex the bristles to create a tapered edge in the brush. <S> Now work your way down the corner, twitching the brush with tiny movements. <S> The first third of this video clip shows how to load the brush with paint and hold it to create the edge. <S> Introduce a slight twitch to see the magic in action. <S> The result will be a much more natural line which works with the texture, not in spite of it. <S> With a little practice you'll be able to work along wall and ceiling corners without messing around with tape. <S> It's liberating! <A> If you decide to use tape rather than learning how to cut in with a brush, make sure you use the blue type masking tape and also run a flexible painters scraper along the inside edge to really seal the inside edge down. <S> If you don't, you're guaranteed to get some 'bleed' underneath the edge of the tape. <A> I beg to differ and offer an alternative to other answers offering the best way to achieve a nice crisp edge. <S> From my experience, the best way to achieve a good looking corner interface between different wall colors is that You don't. <S> Especially if the surface of one of the walls which meet in said corner is textured. <S> A good looking straight and nice line where two colors meet is notoriously difficult to achieve even for professional decorators. <S> What you do instead is that you offset the color interface a bit from the edge. <S> Two to ten centimeters or one to four inches, depending on your liking and the interrior design and situation. <S> Not only does it save you from the headache of getting the edge right <S> , it also gives you more creative options and possibilities to liven up your room. <A> When I painted a house we used paper tape: Cover the edge of one wall with tape, so you can quietly brush the other wall, without worrying to get out of the lines. <S> I used this trick between the wall and the ceiling, but it will work between any two surfaces. <S> Note (thanks <S> Carl ): <S> image source <S> For example, this kind of paper tape : <A> The only trick is to be very careful dipping the tool in paint, if you get paint on the plastic parts of the tool and not just the pad it will start to get on the other surface.
|
First paint over the edge of the paper tape using the same color you're going to use on the wall without the tape, and then paint your final color once this has dried. By doing so you can control the position of the brush edge and work toward the corner with precision. I've used the Shur Line brand edger tool with great fast results.
|
both wires are white how can i determine the hot wire? both wire are white on the cord for my ac unit i need to know how to find the hot wire with my cen-tech p37772 multi meter. I am replacing the plug on the end and cut it without noticing which wire went to the hot. <Q> You need to pay attention to the comment by @Hari Ganti. <S> The only way I know to make sure you are connecting the right wire to the right place with confidence. <S> Would be to open up and inspect the connection point of the power supply. <S> But if you could get to your connection point, why wouldn't you install a manufacturer approved cord and avoid any complications? <A> If the cord is one of those flat-type cords with a 90° cord end, then inspect the cord carefully, it's likely that one side of the cord has small ridges that you can use to re-align the cut end with the end of your cord. <S> Having said that: @Retired Master Electrician is spot on - just replace the entire cord. <S> It'll be cleaner, better, and safer. <A> For 120 volt equipment, if the load is turned off or not running, then the hot wire is energized and the neutral is not. <S> Check each wire to ground with the load off. <S> The hot will have voltage and the neutral will have the same potential as the ground. <S> For 240 volt equipment, both wires are energized at all times. <S> Good luck!
|
Then you could ring each wire with your ohmmeter, mark and install them correctly. It's also likely that a replacement cord won't be any more expensive than a replacement end.
|
How to put a sidewalk on a slanted hill? If I had to guess I would say grade along my house is about 30%. I am just wondering if there is another way besides leveling off the part for the walkway. <Q> If you’re working in the “Right-of-Way” you’d better contact the City and verify compliance with their Standards for Construction”. <S> The notion that the sidewalk needs to comply with ADA is nonsense, if you’re located on a 30 degree slope. <S> First, ADA is for public “use” building sites, and second it’s not required for extreme sloped sites that create a hardship. <S> However, the City will have many requirements and you’ll need a permit to work in the right-of-way, including how and when you can block off the roadway to perform the work. <A> Many sidewalks in San Francisco have a significant slope, thus your ability to pour concrete on a slope isn't an issue. <S> Thus, you should consider: (as Jim Stewart mentions below) <S> the capabilities of your in laws to traverse such a steep slope, especially if they may be in a wheelchair in the future checking with your city's building department about what is allowed. <S> For instance, the ADA requirements for a wheel chair ramp is a 1:12 slope (rise of 1 foot over a 12 foot distance or in other words 1 inch per foot). <S> However, in this thread one contractor says that he had trouble getting approval for a 1:10 slope walkway. <A> If I read you right, you're talking about a sidewalk parallel to the slope, not uphill / downhill. <S> A small crown or pitch left to right is fine for a sidewalk, but anything more is really awkward and hard on the ankles, possibly hazardous when slippery. <S> In some cases, a deck walkway may work out better for you than a sidewalk, just something to consider.
|
There's really no alternative to leveling the path.
|
Draining problems in dishwasher. Is this drain setup ok? I have issues with dirty water in filter area and dishes not coming clean. This is a new dishwasher. Old one had similar issues so I think it is the drain and not dishwasher. Is the drain setup ok? Would it be better going to disposal? There is no possibility of adding an air gap. Update: The upright pipe is what I think is an attempt at a loop..air gap thing. The plastic drain hose from the dishwasher comes out of the dishwasher..across the bottom of the cabinet. Up the side of that white pipe where it becomes clamped to a copper pipe. That empties into the white pipe which goes back down to the bottom of the cabinet and out its own drain.Thanks! <Q> Put the dishwasher drain line into the disposal. <S> But that is NOT your air gap. <S> There is a difference between an air gap and a trap . <S> The output of the disposal has a trap, which is important. <S> But you also need to have an air gap. <S> A trap prevents sewer gas from escaping through the drain. <S> An air gap prevents sewer water from coming into the dishwasher if the drain pipe is clogged. <S> However, an air gap does not need to be the old style of funny looking metal/plastic thing on the corner of the sink. <S> This does not require anything visible above the counter or any cutting holes into the sink or counter. <S> Assuming the corrugated plastic tube is your dishwasher drain line, move the end to the disposal and attached the middle of it as high up under the counter as you can <S> and you're all set. <A> Put the dishwasher drain line into the disposer. <S> The disposer internal cavity becomes your air gap. <S> There is a slug inside the disposer dishwasher connection that needs to be removed. <A> It's possible that the drain line is just too long (developed length). <S> I'd guess that somewhere in the installation instructions it says to only use the supplied drain hose, and not to extend it. <S> This is because the length of the supplied drain hose was specifically chosen, based on the size of the discharge pump. <S> You don't show what's at the top of the copper pipe, but I'm guessing <S> it's some type of U shaped pipe. <S> So while it may seem like you've only extended the drain line a foot, or so. <S> The bend at the end of the tube, could actually be like adding an additional foot or so. <S> With this setup, you may have actually added two feet to the developed length of the drain. <S> That may not seem like much, but it could be enough to cause poor draining. <S> Draining in to the disposer is definitely and option, and seems as though you should have enough drain hose length to do it. <S> Just make sure you secure the drain hose in to the high loop configuration <S> , that's described in other answers. <S> Don't forget to make any modifications to the disposer, to allow it to accept the drain. <S> And don't forget to cap the abandoned standpipe. <S> Left unused, the trap will dry out, and allow sewer gas to enter the living space.
|
Instead, you can use a flexible hose from the dishwasher that loops up above the height of the sink drain, as far as possible to the underside of the counter and then loops down and into the disposal.
|
On heat load calculations My question is simple. Is heat load calculation the same for sizing air conditioners as it is for sizing radiators? I.e if an AC guy gives you the heat loads which lead him to select particular air conditioners can you use those BTU figures for sizing radiators or designing your hot water radiator system (determining flow rates and head etc?) <Q> No. Heating and cooling loads are dependent on two things: (1) the house dimensions, insulation, windows, etc., and (2) the climate in which it is located. <S> Some areas have very cold winters and moderate summers, so the heating load will be high but the cooling load quite low. <S> In another area with moderate winters and hot summers, the opposite will be true. <S> Both have to be calculated independently. <A> Yes. <S> If your contractor calculated a Manual J for your house, then they calculated the cooling and heating load required to cool and heat that specific house in your climate and based on features of your house (volume, insulation, orientation, windows and their SHGC/U-factor, etc). <S> You need to review the calculations though. <S> They should have a report and you want to ensure it is for your house and matches the features of your house. <S> Good luck. <A> Maybe. <S> Depending on how the contractor came to the conclusion that they did, and what information they provided you. <S> You may, or may not have enough information to size your heating system. <S> As mentioned, if the contractor did a Manual J, and provided you with a full report. <S> Then you should have enough information. <S> However, if the contractor simply estimated the loads based on similar jobs, or didn't give you all the numbers. <S> Then you might not have enough information to size the heating system. <S> Based on the information you've provided, the answer is... <S> Maybe. <A> An ACCA Manual J heat load calculation will tell you how many BTUs a house is loosing or gaining with a particular outside temperature and a desired inside temperature. <S> For instance if your design outdoor temp is 30 degrees in the winter <S> and you want your home to be 70 degrees <S> , that is a 40 degree split. <S> They then measure up all surfaces that can conduct heat to the outside such as floors, ceilings, windows and doors. <S> Throw in a few other factors, run it through the Manual J tables and you get the amount of BTUs lost or gained at a particular split. <S> So no matter what type of heating you use you will need that many BTUs to keep your home at that temperature. <S> There are then additional manuals to determine the size equipment needed. <S> For forced air furnaces, if you were to figure you were loosing 80,000 BTUs and you wanted an 80% efficiency furnace you would get a 100,000 btu furnace and assuming the calculations were exactly right and the split was always 40 degrees your furnace would run 24 hours per day. <S> Normally your split would be lower than that and Manual J allows for wiggle room so in reality your furnace won’t run 24 hours a day.
|
If done correctly, the numbers they provided for heating are valid for any heating system you install.
|
How to mount a power strip without holes to the wall I got a power strip ( this one ) that doesn't have holes on the back for mounting to the wall. I had figured I'd use Command Strip adhesive and be done with it, but it has little grippy feet on the bottom that raise it up off of the surface just enough that a command strip wouldn't grip securely. What else might work? Since it will have power cords (and USB cables) plugged and unplugged every now and then, it needs to be able to stand up to forces perpendicular to the plane of the wall. <Q> Is it not possible to use a knife or other sharp edge to remove the feet? <S> Most of the rubber feet I've seen are either attached via grommets--essentially thin pieces of the rubber which extend through a small holes with a slightly larger part at the end to hold it in place. <S> Cheaper companies attach flat ones with adhesive. <S> If removal is not an option, your best bet is still with Command adhesive for the wall adhesion. <S> However, what you will want to do is attach something to the underside of the strip (using a thin adhesive strip or, ideally, glue+clamping) that will increase the thickness to the same level as the feet. <S> I'd probably use a light wood like balsa or bass from a hobby store, as they are available in various small sizes and a large range of thicknesses. <S> You may even be able to find a piece that is already the right length and width in their selection! <S> (Be sure to take the power strip in with you to test for thickness length x width.) <S> If none with the proper thickness will adequately fit, just get a slightly larger one, cut it small enough to fill most of the area, paint it to match the wall or strip (if desired), and attach it with your desired adhesive to the strip. <S> Apply the command strips to the other side, following the supplied instructions, then attach it to the wall. <S> This will work perfectly, and you likely have something around your house already that you can modify to work (honestly, even a couple layers of carefully glued, trimmed, and painted corrugated cardboard <S> could look professional! <S> You would be surprised!) <S> Honestly though, if it were me, I would probably find a way to remove the feet. <S> ;) Good luck! <A> I glue them to an oversize piece of wood then attach the wood in the normal way. <S> I roughen the plastic surface with sandpaper to give the surface microscopic jaggedness (called "tooth"), then glue them to the wood with a good 2-part epoxy and correct adhesive filler. <S> The epoxy will engage into the jagged surface and won't just pop off, as it would with unaltered plastic. <S> For the feet, use a pen or pencil to transfer the marks onto the wood, then use a drill to relief the wood where the feet go. <S> (before you glue, obviously). <S> If you drill it just slightly deeper than the feet, you can also fill that space with epoxy, and it will help grab. <S> The code-legal way to do this same thing is surface conduit coming out to receptacle boxes, then use smart receptacles to switch the loads. <A> To avoid damaging the unit and loosing the warranty, do not remove the feet or permanently fix the unit directly to a mount or wall. <S> Instead I would suggest making a bracket that would clip over the unit and then mount the bracket to where you want to place the unit. <S> Mounting Options. <S> Cable Tie: With a block of wood the size of the unit, drill two holes through the width of the block, making sure the holes are in a place that when cable ties are thread through, they will not interfere with any of the sockets. <S> mount the block in position on the wall, feed the cable tie through the holes and tighten around the unit. <S> Metal Strips: 2 x Perforated metal strips mount directly to the wall or mount to a block as above. <S> Molded or Routed bracket: create two brackets that will sit over and support either end of the unit. <S> Wood blocks routed so they fit over each end of the unit leaving the sockets free these routed brackets can be mounted to the wall with the unit sitting inside. <S> If you are able to find plastic that can be molded or routed then do you could use this method and this would be the smartest looking option. <A> Look at a multioutlet assembly instead Since this is meant to be a permanent/indefinite installation, I would look into using a surface raceway starter box and a length of surface raceway to connect the power source to a multioutlet assembly (often known by the trade name Plugmold™, image for exposition only): <S> These are like power strips, but designed and UL-listed for permanent wiring, mounting, and usage. <S> One can fit a wall switch and surface box into the surface raceway feeding it if one wishes to be able to turn it on and off, for that matter. <A> With the power strip unplugged, unscrew the screws that hold the plastic casing together. <S> Drill holes in the bottom piece of the plastic casing (the piece that will be against the wall). <S> Hold the bottom casing against the wall where you want it installed, and mark the wall where the holes are. <S> Make sure the screws draw the anchors firmly against the bottom of the power strip. <S> Re-assemble the power strip. <S> Drill holes (smaller than the anchors) where you marked the wall, and push the power strip against the wall, inserting the wall anchors firmly into the holes.
|
Screw screws through the holes (from the inside of the power strip) and twist plastic wall anchors onto the screws (use strong, medium-large ones). Of course you know, the electrical code only allows power strips with flexible cords for temporary use - not to be used as a substitute for the permanent wiring in a building.
|
Correct way to use jack post These photos show the way the previous owners of my house used a jack post to brace sagging floor joists. I'm not sure of their method, so I wanted to check what the correct method is. Angle 1 Angle 2 <Q> This detail is better suited for longer beams, covering more joists. <S> Somebody has found new and unusual ways do do something there. <S> I can see the logic of what they were trying to do, but makes for a lot of guessing still. <S> The problem really happened when the insulated pipe was drilled through the bottom edge of the joists. <A> Tl;DR <S> The "correct method" is to remove that pipe and sister in replacement joists. <S> The job that the previous owner did is a hack job / bodge job, and I wouldn't trust it. <S> A jack post is used to reduce the span of a beam. <S> The problem here isn't that your span is too short, it's that the capacity of your beam has been destroyed by drilling a large hole near the bottom of it. <S> The solution isn't to use a jack post but to repair the beam. <S> The "best" way to do this would be to restore the beam to its original size by sistering in a replacement joist, but this of course can only be done if you remove the pipe that the hole was made for in the first place. <S> If you want to keep that pipe, you'll have to investigate other options. <S> Potentially connecting a replacement beam underneath the joist would work, if clearance isn't an issue. <S> You could even put a jack post underneath that additional beam if you want. <S> The above all applies to each joist that needs strengthening. <S> They way the owner has tried to use a single jack post for two joists looks unsafe to me. <A> I would strip everything out of there, completely, after adding temporary wooden posts under the two joists. <S> This includes the steel post, all wood blocking and extra joists, metal strapping, etc., right down to the bare original joists. <S> I'd then place a doubled joist crossways between the two joists in play, screwing it in place through the original joists. <S> I'd then add double heavy-duty joist hangers, upside-down, on the end of the cross-joist, tying it to the original joists and transferring their loads. <S> I'd then mount the post to the bottom of the doubled cross-joist using 5/16" x 2 lag screws. <S> _____________________ <S> |x| <S> |x| <S> |x|\ cross-joist /|x| <S> <--- screws/lags through original joists <S> |x| | (doubled) <S> | |x| <S> |x| | <S> | |x| |x|_|_________________|_|x| <S> --------hanger <S> --↑ <S> || <S> ↑ -- <S> hanger || | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> < -- post | |
|
Typically, there is a beam put under the joists, then the post are put under each end of the beam.
|
The blower on my HVAC runs sometimes when it should be off The blower on my HVAC runs sometimes when it should be off. It does not run all of the time. The furnace is in the attic and the abnormal running seems to be related to the attic temperature. Observations: When the attic is not hot, all functions work properly, the blower is on when it should be on and off when it should be off. With a hot attic (109 F), the blower was running with the thermostat in HEAT mode, fan in AUTO, and the set point 5 degrees below room temperature. The blower continued to run when I switched the thermostat to OFF mode. The blower shut off overnight. With a hot attic , the blower was running with the thermostat in COOL mode, fan in AUTO, and the set point 15 degrees above room temperature. The blower shut off overnight. Question: Is this normal behavior? If not, how do I determine what is causing the blower to run when it should be off? Equipment - Installed 1981 General Electric natural gas furnace model BLH080E936G0 General Electric 5-wire thermostat model AY28X092 3AAT50A2B55I Honeywell high limit and fan motor control L4064E 1223 Settings: high limit 205 F, Fan ON 120 F, Fan OFF 82 F @ThreePhaseEel Wiring Diagram <Q> That is actually a Trane/ American Standard furnace I believe. <S> The cause is most likely <S> the limit switch is getting so hot it is opening causing the fan to turn on to cool the limit switch. <S> They often will open around 130-145 and yours may be a little weak. <A> The behavior of the blower seems to be normal, nothing malfunctioning. <S> The hot attic is causing the the temperature in the furnace to reach or exceed 120 F. <S> When the temperature in the furnace reaches 120 F, the Fan Switch - Thermal , (FST on the wiring diagram) closes and turns the blower on . <S> The blower continues to run until the attic cools overnight. <S> When the temperature in the furnace falls to 82 F, the FST opens and turns the blower off. <S> The blower will turn on even though the thermostat is not calling for heat. <S> The blower will also turn on with the thermostat in Fan AUTO, or in COOL mode with the set point above the actual room temperature. <S> The FST is part of the heat mode portion of the blower wire circuit and is in the High Limit and Fan Motor Control device. <S> The device measure the temperature in the furnace. <S> The Fan Motor Control is set to turn the blower on at 120 F and off at 82 F. Note that the blower could also turn on if something causes the Fan Relay (F on the wiring diagram) to switch to COOL mode. <S> I can not tell from blower speed which mode is powering the blower. <S> This blower operates at the same speed, independent of the mode. <S> I was able to confirm that that the FST and not the Fan Relay is turning the blower on. <S> I removed the cover plate from the High Limit and Fan Motor Control device and observed the dial movement and blower behavior at various temperatures. <S> I observed that the blower turns on at 120 F and off at 82 F. <S> The Fan Relay makes a click sound when it switches modes. <S> I did not hear any click sounds from the relay when the blower turned on or off. <S> The high-limit switch, TCO-A on the wiring diagram, is not in the blower wire circuit. <S> This switch is a safety control and is in the Automatic Gas Valve (AGV) wire circuit. <S> The switch is located in the High Limit and Fan Motor Control device. <S> It is set to open if the furnace temperature reaches 200 F. <S> At 200 F, this switch will open and turn off the gas by closing the AGV. <S> In normal operation, the blower will keep the furnace temperature below 200 F. <A> With your furnace, this is expected behavior under these circumstances. <S> However, this is also a sign of something: your furnace was never designed or intended to be roasted in a stifling-hot attic the way it is right now. <S> As to why this is happening -- the fan limit is closing, and then power goes through the first set of <S> normally closed contacts on the fan relay, allowing the second set of normally closed contacts on the fan relay to select heat speed on the fan motor. <A> I had this same problem - hot air blasting from the vents with neither heat nor cool turned on. <S> I had to break the wire to the fan switch and insert a SPST toggle switch in that circuit. <S> I mounted the switch in the side of the furnace case and flip it off in the spring and on in the fall. <S> The more elegant solution would be to insert some kind of thermostat on the furnace case that opens at about 110 degrees. <S> I guess the furnace designers expect folks to be running the AC anytime the attic temp is this hot. <S> That would keep the plenum at room temperature, not attic temperature.
|
It's definitely the fan limit kicking in A metal box inside a hot attic (which is what your furnace is) could easily reach 120°F inside it on a hot day, and when the fan limit switch feels that, it doesn't know that it's the fault of the conditions outside the furnace, so it turns the fan on to cool the furnace's heat exchanger off, thinking the burner must have fired up.
|
How to make a small piece of wood smaller with limited tools I have a piece of pine that's 1/2" x 3/4". I want 1/2" x 1/2" and I can't seem to find that at the big box stores. For tools I have a jigsaw, circular saw but that's it. I don't really have money to invest in a bandsaw. What else can I use to make this smaller? Hand planer? I'm using this for an extension jamb on a window <Q> Your circular saw will do the job, but you should make a jig to guide the saw instead of trying to follow a pencil line. <S> You will need a couple of pieces of straight lumber a little longer than the cut you want to make. <S> Many books and articles say to use scrap wood <S> but I sometimes use good lumber destined for use later. <S> The technique is to cobble together an assembly with an inside corner that the saw's foot plate can be pressed against, with the piece to be cut positioned in the path of the blade. <S> Sometimes you can clamp the assembly together <S> but I find that the clamps get in the way <S> so I usually use small nails. <S> The shape of the jig will depend on what material you have on hand to make it. <S> Here is a suggestion: Please forgive the crude cross section but it should convey the main idea. <A> Lumber yards and big box stores that sell lumber usually have a trimming saw that they use to cut customers purchases to size. <S> Of course they probably won't cut a piece that you bring in, but if they don't have a 1/2" x 1/2" in stock, you can buy a 1/2" by something else and they will cut it down for you. <A> Doing this with power tools safely would probably require building a jig, as mentioned. <S> A hand plane would take quite a while to remove that much material. <S> A simple miter box with a hand saw could be an easy way to do it. <S> Many of them have mechanisms to clamp a piece of wood in while you cut. <S> Or if it doesn't need to be perfectly square, you could just draw a line, clamp it to a table, and cut with a hand saw -
|
a nice pull saw would actually let you cut it pretty clean.
|
cooling city water in the summer First off, I live in Phoenix, AZ. This is desert here. I live in an area where people mostly have natural desert landscaping rather than lawns. Now, this will sound really odd to folks who live elsewhere, but the house I'm in now does not get "cold" water in the summer. I can literally shut off my hot water heater and take a shower just from the cold water coming in from the city water line. The so-called "cold" water temp is somewhere over 110 for most of the summer. It's fine for most of the rest of the year, just not from May thru Sept. I've lived in different parts of the city throughout my life, and this is the hottest "cold" water I've ever had to deal with. I think a big part of it is because the ground in this area is quite rocky and sandy, not much solid dirt. And it's dry as a bone. Where you've got a water main running under yards that have lawns that are watered regularly, the water seeps into the ground and cools the ground and whatever pipes are there. Hardly anybody in this area has lawns, certainly nobody along the route where my water main comes from. Short of putting a 50 gallon water cooler into a fridge (the opposite of a water heater), I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas about how I might rig up something that could cool the water coming into the house by 20-30 degrees? <Q> Very common in tropical Australia, not a big deal. <S> The ground gets hot in summer and even though the street pipes are six feet underground the water can scald. <S> Every summer we turn off the power to the hot water storage tank, it then becomes the cold water supply. <S> If we use too much "cold" water the tank warms up. <S> The house has an evaporative cooler and the tank is positioned inside the house and is cooled. <A> Exclude a crossover problem in the shower valve as described by @Paul Logan above. <S> Test the temperature of the incoming city water <S> say at an outside faucet. <S> If the incoming city water really is 110 F, then make your own cool water (say 80 F) by the batch by putting enough ice into a bucket with 1 or 2 gal of water. <S> Take a quick shower using a low flow shower head <S> say 1 gal/min using the house (hot) cold water to get clean (less volume of water means less heating by the water). <S> Then as a final cooling rinse repeatedly dip a small bowl into the cool water and pour it over yourself. <S> Alternatively, get a camping shower and pour the ice cooled water into the reservoir and spray it over yourself as a final rinse. <S> Get one of the old fashioned canvas water bags and hang it outside in the shade. <S> Evaporation of water seeping through the canvas will cool the remaining water inside. <S> Use that for the final cooling rinse. <A> So I also live here in Phoenix since 2006. <S> I always tell anyone back home, home being San Diego that the heat actually doesn't bother that much since if it wasn't so hot in the summer, then we'd be another California.... <S> Anyways what does really bother me is no cold water to rinse off at night before bed... <S> My friends and family are always dumbfounded.... <S> But here's a solution I found.... <S> Get a large metal colander….Get <S> a rubber/plastic bowl about half the size of the colander then freeze water in that bowl...find a way to hang the colander under the shower head... <S> place the chunk of ice in that colander and let that really warm to hot water run over the ice and sprinkle through the colander down on you.... <S> with that cold water.... <S> It actually works... <A> Is there any practicality of digging your own well to bring up water from deep in the ground? <S> If you could do that then the water temperature would be closer to the average deep crust temperature of the earth. <S> Digging a well in most areas is probably limited to folks that have a certain minimum size of property. <S> There are also many other local restrictions as well. <A> Perform a search for "undersink water chiller". <S> You will find products in the $ 200 - $ 600 range retailed by companies like Amazon and Home Depot , capable of chilling about a gallon of water per hour, and capable of storing 2 - 3 quarts of chilled water. <A> This is just an idea, I guess it would be a variant on another answer suggesting you use the hot water tank for cold water supply part of the year. <S> Most well systems use a pressure tank in the basement of the home, the well pump fills the pressure tank from the hole in the ground, and the tank supplies the water in the house. <S> (You could bypass the pressure tank to supply the water heater.) <S> The pressure tank would serve as a simple cistern or reservoir where the water cools to your basement's ambient temperature. <S> I believe it would cool faster than the water heater tank because it's uninsulated, and you could leave it in place year round. <S> This should not be that difficult of a plumbing job. <S> You could even conceivably bury the tank in your yard or in your basement floor for better cooling. <S> I am pretty sure that 4' underground the temperature is pretty cool, but you could easily core drill a small hole down a few feet and run a temperature probe to see before you did all that work.
|
You could install a pressure tank that's simply fed from the water company supply, and in turn supplies the cold water for the house.
|
Is outlet box required to be mounted? I would like to know if I hard-wire an outlet from another with wire running across floor to non-mounted outlet is this considered an extension cord. <Q> "Wire", eh? <S> Romex NM/UF/SE/MH/whatever multiconductor building cable is out of the question. <S> It's not flexible, and is made for immobile use in protected locations, like behind walls, rafters, underground or in conduit. <S> You can't use building cable for flexible cord at all . <S> Even if you have proper cordage , you're not allowed to homebrew extension cords with a handi-box and some cord. <S> Specifically, 400.8 disallows any flexible cords Used as substitutes for the fixed wiring of a structure. <S> Run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended or dropped ceilings, or floors. <S> Run through doorways, windows, or similar openings. <S> Attached to building surfaces. <S> Concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings — or located above suspended or dropped ceilings. <S> Installed in raceways, except as permitted elsewhere in the NEC. <S> Used or installed in a manner that unduly exposes them to physical damage. <S> 400.7 carves out exceptions where you are allowed to use flexible cords: <S> Pendants [210.50(A) and 314.23(H)] if the cords are identified for pendant use in Table 400.4. <S> Wiring of luminaires as allowed by 410.24(A) and 410.62(B). <S> Connection of portable luminaires, portable and mobile signs, or appliances as allowed in 422.16 [400.7(A)(3), but when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)]. <S> Elevator cables. <S> Wiring of cranes and hoists. <S> Connection of utilization equipment to facilitate frequent interchange [422.16], but only when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)]. <S> Prevention of the transmission of noise or vibration [422.16]. <S> Appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance and repair, and the appliance is intended or identified for flexible cord connections [422.16], but only when used with attachment plugs [400.7(B)]. <S> Connection of moving parts. <S> Where specifically permitted elsewhere in the NEC. <A> I think for it to be considered an extension cord, it would need a male plug at one end (it has to be portable). <S> Hardwiring to another outlet box or a junction box sounds more like a permanent fixture, so you would have to follow the appropriate building code for where you are installing this. <S> That said, the 2017 NEC does allow for outlets attached to "flexible cord": 314.23 (H) Pendant Boxes . <S> An enclosure supported by a pendant shall comply with 314.23(H)(1) or (H)(2) <S> (1) Flexible Cord . <S> A box shall be supported from a multiconducter cord or cable in an approved manner that protects the conductors against strain, such as a strain-relief connecter threaded into the box with a hub. <S> However, this is within the context of hanging fixtures. <S> The bigger problem with your proposed installation is running the cord along the floor - it's going to be subject to foot traffic there, which would create a trip hazard and cause wear. <S> I wasn't able to find any approved examples of this scenario in the NEC. <A> This is in addition to @CactusCake. <S> Second, Since it is attached to the internal circuitry of a building it has to meet and be approved as part of the wiring system. <S> Since you didn't specify any particular type material I cannot give you a direct answer to whether or not it would be allowed, But the material you are using can be found in Chapter 3 of the NEC "Wiring Methods and Materials". <S> For example let's say you wanted to use type NM cable for the conductors. <S> Then you would be referred to Article 334.15 (B) <S> "Protection from physical damage" and see you couldn't use that material. <S> Third <S> In my opinion it simply isn't a safe installation. <S> Hope this helps.
|
First, if you hardwire into an outlet, by definition it cannot be an extension cord. I am against any method of having live circuitry just lying around on a floor exposed to damage and other hazards.
|
Why do insulated screwdrivers have a maximum voltage that they're rated for? I have some insulated screwdrivers and the packaging says "Protects from electric shock up to 1,000 volts" . But it's not like the insulation can conduct electricity at higher voltages, right? <Q> Wrong. <S> At some point, any insulation will break down and either begin to conduct or simply flash over. <S> From Wikipedia : Electrical breakdown or dielectric breakdown is when current flows through an electrical insulator when the voltage applied across it exceeds the breakdown voltage. <S> This results in the insulator becoming electrically conductive. <S> Electrical breakdown may be a momentary event (as in an electrostatic discharge), or may lead to a continuous arc if protective devices fail to interrupt the current in a power circuit. <S> Under sufficient electrical stress, electrical breakdown can occur within solids, liquids, gases or vacuum. <S> However, the specific breakdown mechanisms are different for each kind of dielectric medium. <S> So, respect the rating on your 'insulated' screwdrivers. <A> So the screwdriver maker is forced to make certain assumptions, e.g. that you are clever enough not to let beads of sweat run down it, or use it in the rain. <S> What's more, any material does indeed have a breakdown voltage. <S> If you kept increasing voltage, eventually the voltage would pass through the insulator anyway . <S> This is why insulation is tested with a megaohmmeter , which measures resistance against hundreds or thousands of volts of test voltage, which it generates for the test. <S> Here, people often complain that their appliance trips a ground fault detector, yet they measure infinite resistance between hot/neutral and the machine's ground. <S> They are using a common multimeter, which has a test voltage of a couple of volts. <S> Insulation won't break down at those low voltages, hence the megaohmmeter. <S> Look closely at high voltage lines: their insulation is a series of ceramic "bells". <S> The bell shape is to give the longest possible pathway via both the insulation surface and the air. <S> By stacking bells, they increase the insulation further. <S> src <A> At 1000V and above, the "creapage" distance required to prevent tracking across the surface likely exceeds the thickness of the plastic handle. <S> There is no such thing as a pure insulator; EVERYTHING is a conductor, some things are just better than others depending on the voltage. <S> Such is the fallacy of people thinking they are protected from lightning because they are wearing rubber shoes, or driving in a car with rubber tires. <S> The lightning ALREADY passed through the dielectric strength of a mile of air, 1/2" of rubber is not even significant at that point.
|
To start with, electricity is perfectly capable of going around insulation in an arc, so even if you had a theoretically perfect screwdriver handle, there's a point where electricity would ignore the handle and use the air instead.
|
How do I attach a gate where the swing end is 90 degrees to the wall? I have a gate which fits neatly between two walls running between my house and the next door neighbour. For now, I have tethered the swing end with a simple loop of rope which tags onto a hook screwed into the wall. Unfortunately, it's not too secure and easily slips off. I'd prefer to have some kind of latch which is more secure and is able to withstand the weight of an excited fully grown dog. Pictured here is the swing end of the gate, which is about 1.5 inches away from the wall. Frustratingly, it's too narrow a gap for me to insert a post wide enough for a traditional latch. Full context view: Swing end to the left, hinge to the right - the gate swings away. My wall is the one to the left. I'm sure there's probably a simple solution to this one, but I can't figure it out... <Q> Take a (outdoor rated) board of appropriate thickness and attach it to the wall. <S> Mount the latch to that board. <S> Ask permission of your neighbour before drilling holes in his wall. <A> You could then use a simple gate hook instead of a latch. <S> Additionally, it would prevent the dog from being able to push it out at all since the post would bear the weight across the entire height. <A> Good ideas here, but I'm reluctant to drill holes in masonry in the first place, and a gate tends to impart a lot of force on fasteners and they may work loose over time. <S> I'd consider a "cane bolt". <S> It would require you boring a hole in your walk, though. <S> image source
|
Another alternative, would be to sink a 4"x4" in front of the gate where you want it to stop on the non-hinged side.
|
Getting 200 amp from 2 different 100 amp service This is for my shop - i have 2 units with separate meters - each unit getting 100 amp service. Each unit has its own electric panel. Now what i want to do is to pull two 100 amp circuit from each panel - and joining them parallel to a 200 Amp Disconnect. From the Disconnect it goes to my equipment which needs 175 Amp power. Here is a drawing . Does this make sense? Is this doable. Basically connecting 2 power source in parallel. We learn back in engineering - voltage remains same but current doubles. Any thoughts or comment. <Q> Illegal, and impossible at any sane cost Paralleling is, for all practical purposes of interest to you, illegal in mains wiring. <S> Even when it is done owing to ampacity needs, it uses special equipment on the line side which renders it useless for anything like this. <S> The only way to inter-tie two supplies is with some sort of airgapping which assures energy flow is one way always, and provides isolation. <S> Think of it as "magic diodes that work on AC". <S> Any of these would be prohibitively expensive, of course. <S> Most houses take 1kw (4A) on average, and they absolutely rely on residential loads being intermittent. <S> Expect a lot of things to come out of this conversation, such as 480V - you could run your load off three #6 wires instead of two #0000's.. <S> Also did you remember the 125% derate? <A> Let's forget about the engineering for a minute and just say, NEC 230.2 "A Building or other structure served shall be supplied by only one service,unless permitted in 230.2 (A) through (D) and you don't meet those exceptions. <S> If you want to argue that the services are in different buildings. <S> Then 230.3's title is "One Building or Other Structure Not to Be Supplied Through Another." <S> In sort it isn't allowed by code. <A> It won't work, you almost surely will get power from 2 different phases of utility 3-ph supply <S> so your current won't 'match' <S> (you put 2 phases of your utility into short-circuit). <S> Assuming you're on TN-C-S <S> split-phase 'american-style' distribution with transformer for each user. <S> If you're on standard 3-phase distribution, with single block served by a single transformer, it may work but you have to splice phases <S> R-to-R, S-to-S and T-to-T (0V between each pair and full delta voltage between each couple of 'pairs') <S> My suggestion is, in any case, is to ask a service update to your power company.
|
Their supply lines and equipment are simply not factored for a load that large! You need to do this anyway, as you cannot simply slap a 175A load on their line without permission . M-G sets with overrunning clutches, or railway-style substations where you feed an ungrounded transformer then rectify to DC and run your machine off the DC bus. The path of least resistance (heh) is to have the conversation with the power company.
|
Replacing 4-wire outlet and didn't label the order -- does it matter? I'm replacing an outlet that has 2 black wires and 2 white wires. When removing the old outlet, I didn't keep tabs on which black wire was on top and which was on bottom (as well as the whites). I'm not really sure why the order matters (if it does) but I'd like to figure out the proper way to wire this back up. I had it wired for a while based on what I thought was the right order, but for some reason today I noticed part of the circuit suddenly stopped working; this was triggered by a light switch turning on down circuit I think. It's a motion activated light and happened to switch off just as I was testing the outlet with my voltage detector -- when I tapped the outlet is when the light went out. However, I can't reproduce this. So the outlet just before the new one worked, the new one wasn't working, and the outlets beyond it (including a GFCI outlet) were dead. The breaker nor the GFCI tripped. I had the outlet pulled out of the wall while testing and noticed a small spark prior to the outlets down circuit going dead -- seemed like a bad idea to leave it as is, so I turned the breaker off until I can figure out the correct order. How can I figure out which wire goes where (safely)? <Q> Test both the wires with a meter to make sure. <S> Turn all the switches on in the room before you test. <S> If they are both hot then you will need to abandon/cap off the one to the switch leg. <S> Another way to tell is if you still have the old receptacle there will be a metal bus that attaches both gold screws. <S> If that is removed then it's likely a half hot. <A> Note @Harpers answer. <S> From everything you are describing you probably have a loose wire or bad connection at the receptacle. <S> The arcing kind of gives it away <S> and no it doesn't matter which conductor is on top or bottom in a standard receptacle installation. <S> If you are still a little cautious you can pigtail the black and neutral conductors and that way you will isolate the problem to either the receptacle or the circuit. <S> See picture try the "B Method". <S> Good luck. <A> The receptacle, if you look closely, will have a "strip gauge" which shows how far to strip the wires when using the back connections. <S> You need to make sure to strip that far. <S> Alternately, since this is a "tighten the screws to hold the back wire" type (which is the good type), you can strip a little too far so it doesn't go in all the way, note the excess distance of bare wire sticking out proud of the insulation, pull the wire back out and nip that excess distance off. <S> The other kind is a "backstab" where you poke it in firmly and a spring grabs it; on those you cannot trial-and-error, because pulling the wire back out (even with the provided release tab) weakens the spring beyond reuse. <S> Most people here find them unreliable, they are for builders who are in a hurry.
|
Be careful, the old receptacle could have been a half hot, meaning one wire goes to a switch and the other is always hot.
|
How to fasten rotating pieces without self-tightening (or loosening)? I'm trying to make a "slider crank" mechanism for cheap out of 1/4" x 1.5" aluminum, where all the movement is in the xy-plane (parallel to the ground). Total linear movement is ~6 inches. Not my diagram, but essentially this: I've seen plenty of examples all over the place, but I'm unclear how to robustly make joints (looks like they're labeled B and C in the diagram). I've tried something like this: but with the continuous rotation the nut eventually loosens or tightens, depending on the orientation/direction of rotation. With the same thing oriented vertically (e.g. think scissor lift or articulated lamp), it seems much simpler as the weight bears on a connecting shaft, so as long as friction is low enough everything works fine, but I cannot change the orientation. Accepting that I can cut/drill the aluminum to suit, are there things I can get at a regular North American hardware store to make this work (ideally for < 20$ for all connecting hardware)? <Q> The bolt/nut configuration you show requires high friction against the joined members to maintain tightness. <S> You need independent locking of the nut. <S> The most common method is to use two nuts. <S> They are tightened against each other, rather than the captured articulating part. <S> I would also add a washer between the articulating arms or rotating parts. <A> Is it possible to drill the hole to a larger diameter than the bolt and insert a metal sleeve that is slightly longer than the thickness of the 2 arms and tighten against the sleeve. <S> This will act as a replaceable bushing and should reduce wear. <A> Instead of a bolt and nut design, just a short length of your aluminum rod with holes drilled for cotter pins, and washers. <S> Or a bolt and a castle nut with a hole drilled in the bolt for a cotter pin.
|
An alternative is to use a nut locking compound (a sort of nut glue ), and not fully tightening the nut, but the removable type will probably also eventually loosen, and the permanent type prevents easy disassembly.
|
Is a Garage considered a 'Dwelling' for standalone electric service? I just wrapped up adding new overhead 100 amp service for my parent's garage outside Chicago. My Mom is a retired ceramics teacher and wanted a 30A two phase kiln and/or welder in there and the original install was terribly inadequate, with buried #10 a long distance from the house, but the building is right near the power pole. So I put in a new POCO approved meter can, ground rod, panel, etc. I used #4 copper for the main service conductors, according to NEC 310.15(B)(7) . But according to other charts I need bigger wire. It's only about 12' from the weatherhead through the meter to the panel. One thing nagging me about understanding the NEC is: is a residential garage / outbuilding allowed the same derating as a 'Dwelling?' The inspector isn't likely to be too strict based on neighbor's experience, but thought it was an interesting code question. <Q> 310.15(B)(7) relates to a weird exception in how wiring is done. <S> The jurisdiction of NEC normally ends at a specific demarcation point, e.g. the meter. <S> Beyond that, the installation is under power company Codes -- I believe IEEE's National Electric Safety Code (NESC). <S> That Code is built around different assumptions applicable to power companies: <S> The wires will be outdoors or underground Given the outdoor-scale distances, cost of wire matters a lot <S> The wires will be out of contact of humans or structures, so they can run hotter <S> Whole neighborhoods don't peak at once, so wires can be significantly oversubscribed System monitoring equipment will warn when those assumptions are wrong <S> As such, they are allowed to use thinner wire. <S> However sometimes situations arise where outdoor wiring looks, walks and quacks like power company wiring that would be subject to NESC, but has landed in NEC jurisdiction because of a technicality. <S> An example is rural Texas where the PoCo slaps a meter at the edge of your property and leaves it to you to provide your own service drop/lateral. <S> It would be prohibitive to make, say, a 500' run using wire out of the usual 310.15(B)(16) (formerly known as 310.16) table. <S> So NEC 310.15(B)(7) and accompanying Code allows you to use wire sizes more like what NESC would recommend in that instance. <A> According to NEC Article 110.28 <S> The code definition of a "Dwelling Unit is "A single unit, providing complete and independent living facilities for one or more persons, including permanent provisions for living, sleeping, cooking, and sanitation." <S> And no NEC 310.15 (B)(7) does not allow derating for anything else other than dwelling units. <S> You could reduce the service size per 230.79 (D) to an 80A service or minimum 60A. <S> I would suggest a separate meter and service, but I am not familiar with Chicago's requirements. <S> In this state you can have that, but it must meet certain zoning and code requirements (probably what your neighbor went through). <S> This could be relatively easy or a logistical nightmare. <S> I would suggest you look at @Tyson's comments on where to start. <A> This garage is residential per the NEC, code is Basicly broken down into residential, industrial and commercial. <S> I am not sure where your table is from because the ampacities haven't changed. <S> For residential ampacities under 100 amp are required to use the 60 deg collum not the 90 deg that I believe you used. <S> I did check current 2017 310.15.B.16 and the 2 prior (14 & 11) just to make sure <S> and all 3 have the same ampacitys. <S> As a detached garage your AHJ may allow a 70 amp main or possibly 80 amp with the wire you have as a residential service can be 83% of the service disconnect. <S> But for single family the code minimum is 100A (I would expect them to allow a smaller service for a garage) <S> The best way to find out would be to call your inspector (I live on the west coast and haven't worked in your area since the 80' S) in my state the wire would need to be #2 copper for your 2 hot legs and neutral with #6 to a driven ground rod or #4 to a concrete encased ground (this is 240v single phase not 2 phase).
|
So unless your stand alone garage meets all of these requirements, it cannot be classified as a Dwelling Unit. That does not mean you couldn't classify it a something else, for example the NEC does have a definition for just a "Building" which actually describes your situation better.
|
Need an extension cord with lever or magnetic switch I'd like to put an appliance in a tall pull out drawer in pantry. Ideally I want it wired so that it only receives power if the drawer is pulled out - once the drawer is pushed in, power is cut to the appliance. Thinking the easiest way to accomplish this is some sort of lever switch or magnetic switch in line on the extension cord that cuts power when engaged. Any input appreciated. <Q> First off, you're not going to want to use an extension cord for this. <S> This is all going to have to be done with an approved wiring method. <S> Depending on how much space is available, and if you can find a way to mount it. <S> A door jamb switch, would be one way to go. <S> With this approach, you'll need a transformer to step power down for the low voltage circuit. <S> You'll probably find 12V and 24V transformers easily. <S> Then you'll need a relay that can switch the line voltage. <S> You'll also have to make sure that the coil is rated at the low voltage you've chosen to use. <S> Make sure all you're connections are made in properly installed enclosures, and that all the wiring and devices are installed in accordance with their documentation and the NEC. <A> You could do it with a limit switch. <S> Something like a garage door <S> but you would have to install it per NEC and <S> , clearances and protection may become a problem. <S> Edit on rereading your question <S> : I probably wouldn't put it on your extension cord. <S> I would install it with the permanent wiring. <A> Depending on your power requirements and if you're into setting up smart home devices, you can accomplish this with an open/close sensor and a smart plug that cuts the power when the drawer is closed.
|
The other option, is to use a low voltage circuit to control the line voltage to the device. So you'll want to used properly secured and supported wire, that's approved for permanent installation. They're most commonly used, to turn lights on when closet doors open.
|
Water pressure drops bad when using 2 appliances Just bought a house. When using more than one anything in the house, the water pressure drops significantly. For exmaple: flush the toilet. While it's filling back up, the sink will just trickle water out. This is true for any 2 combinations of shower/faucet/toilet/washing machine in the house (basically anything that uses water). Doesn't even have to be in the same proximity to each other. If using only one thing, the pressure is fine. I bought a pressure tester and hooked it up to the outside hose and it shows as 58, which from what I've read is normal. This is a 2-story house if that matters. Edit: Pictures <Q> I would look at your pressure regulator. <S> The device between the meter and check valve. <S> Since it sounds like your pressure is good it could be debris built up limiting the flow. <S> I have worked on many homes with 1/2" plumbing and a toilet should not take a sink to a trickle in fact 2 sinks open should not affect each other as the orifices in the valves are much smaller so I would look to find what is limiting the flow and in my experiance <S> this has been debris built up at restriction points. <A> Update: <S> Pressure regulator was bad and needed replaced. <S> As you can see, the nut was tightened as far as it could go. <S> Plumber friend changed out the regulator and everything works fantastically! <A> Plumbing contractors have for years installed the homes plumbing with 1/2" copper or the equivalent size for any approved piping system. <S> i/2" is large enough to supply only 1 appliance. <S> When I built my home 20 <S> + years ago I specified 3/4" plumbing on both the hot and cold supply lines and specified that only reducing tees could be used (no 1/2" tees anywhere). <S> The plumber installed the cold line from the meter to the hot water tank in 3/4" and used 1/2" everywhere else. <S> He had to return to correct his mistake. <S> Check the piping size coming into the home and all that which is installed. <S> Report back with your findings and someone will be able to make some recommendations or give you some ideas. <S> Also, check to see if you have a filter system in your home that needs replaced.
|
You need to check the size of the installed plumbing and if you want better delivery you may need to replace some of the piping.
|
Holes in offset sistered joists To be able to handle live loads, we recently reinforced the 2x6 joists in our attic by sistering them with 2x8s. To achieve level, the 2x8s are not flush with the 2x6s on the bottom; they range anywhere from 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inch higher. The question is then how to apply the guidelines for drilling electrical holes. When they say to stay "2 inches away from the top and bottom" does that apply to both boards individually or just 2 inches away from the bottom of the 2x6 and 2 inches away from the top of the 2x8? Update Here's a cross-sectional view of the worst case scenario: Holes are for wiring only; so 3/4" - 1" in size is all that's needed. So the question is: How far down from the top of the 2x8 should I drill a 1" hole? If I drill the hole so it starts at 4 1/4" down, this leaves 2" of 2x8 below the hole, but only 1" above the hole on the 2x6. <Q> The rules for notching and boring joists allow you to bore holes of diameter up to 1/3 the height of the joist, a minimum of 2" from the top or bottom of the joist make notches in the outer thirds of the joist, width of notch up to 1/3 height of joist, height of notch <S> up to 1/6 height of joist <S> The question and comments seem to say there is as little as 4" of overlap between the sistered joists, making it impossible to make bored holes that are 2" away from the top and bottom edges of both joists. <S> However if a bored hole is less than the 1/6 max height for a notch, it stands to reason the bored hole can be in that 2" zone; certainly a bored hole removes less wood than a notch. <S> Note that the height of a 2x6 is 5-1/2" and a 7/8" bored hole is less than 1/6th <S> the height of a 2x6. <S> Therefore, as long as you make holes no larger than 7/8" (5/8" or 3/4" should be adequate) <S> keep them close to the walls / beams, in the outer thirds of the joists <S> you satisfy the rules and run your wires without significantly weakening the joists. <A> Normally an equal amount of the beam is in compression (top) and tension ( <S> bottom)...thus the neutral axis would be in the middle of the beam. <S> Now, it sounds like you’ve moved the neutral axis down (lower) relative to the 2x8. <S> Yes, I’d stay 2” away from the bottom of the 2x8 and avoid the top of the 2x8. <S> Also, I’d avoid the middle third of the span. <S> I’d look along the line of drilling and make sure none of the holes will be located next to a large knothole. <S> If so, I’d move the hole a few inches. <S> BTW, if the joists are not secured together, none of my answer matters. <A> putting holes near the edge of a beam weakens it much more than holes in the middle, notches are even worse. <S> unless the bond between the two beams meets the definition of lamination (ie: the bond is as strong as the wood) <S> holes near the edge of either beam must be avoided Drill the holes as close to the center of the 2x8 as you can get without damaging the 2x6 (your maximum allowed size is 1-1/4 diameter). <S> a scuff mark does not count a damage so where convenient I would start with my drill bit resting on the 2x6
|
If the two joists are secured (nailed) together and the tops and bottoms are not aligned, then you’ve moved the neutral axis from the center of the beams. I'd aim for the approximate center of the overlap if possible, that should be the strongest spot to drill through.
|
Passing a generator extention through a wall for use in a power outage When the power goes out and I use my generator I am currently running an extension cord through a cracked door from the garage into the house, down the basement stairs and to my sump pump (which is all that I'm concerned about during a storm, when the power usually goes out.) What I would like to do is somehow run an extension cord to the interior garage wall, plug it into something that passes through the wall into the basement, where I would have another extension cord already plugged in that runs to the sump pump area where I can just unplug the sump pump from the wall, and plug it into the extension to the generator. I don't want to wire an inlet to the breaker box and power the whole house, just a line to the sump pump where I can unplug and re-plug as needed. Also, backfeeding and suicide cords are ABSOLUTELY out of the question. Am I making sense in my explanation? Basically I want a self-contained wall plug that is male on one side that I plug the extension cord from the generator into the wall (garage side) and female on the other (basement) side of the wall that I plug an extension cord into that runs to the sump pump area. I've seen people suggest just drilling a hole into the wall, sticking a PVC pipe through and just cap the ends when not physically passing a full extension cord directly through a hole in the wall. I don't like that idea. I prefer having a plug on each side of the wall to plug into. Not sure what parts I'd be looking for or whether this is something that would violate electrical codes. I can visualize what I want to do, but I have no idea what the parts would be called or what to look for at the hardware store. I'm a computer guy, not a tradesman, so I'm not overly handy in this area, but I'm confident I can work it out with just a little guidance. Any suggestions from professionals who know better would be awesome. Thanks!!! <Q> This new outlet should be placed next to your current sump pump outlet, and properly labeled to avoid future confusion. <S> (Assume here <S> I’m talking about a future homeowner or tradesman— you won’t be confused but others might be in 10-20 years.) <S> This new outlet would be dead when not fed by the generator. <S> Do NOT run your generator in the garage, it must be outdoors! <S> Generators emit Carbon Monoxide which is odorless and extremely lethal. <S> (Note: the linked example is weatherproof, non-weather proof models are made for standard knockout sizes the are found on Hoffman-style enclosures, which are typically larger than needed for this project. <S> Since the easiest to install are all weatherproof there is a message there <S> —these should be indoors or in the garage.) <A> Pardon me for making an XY problem out of this, but I've done the calculations and it doesn't take that much energy to move water. <S> * <S> It should be well possible within the range of a deep-cycle battery and mains-attached charger. <S> Simply put, 1 KWH of energy, or about the capacity of a deep cycle car-sized battery, can lift 2,655,220 foot-pounds, i.e. that many pounds 1 foot, or 265,522 pounds 10 feet. <S> If you've got 265,522 pounds of water (31,800 gallons) of water coming into your basement in the time length of a power outage, you've got bigger problems... <S> Anyway, given the relatively small power requirement, it seems crazy to run a generator. <S> I would look at 12V battery driven sump pump solutions. <S> * <S> a guy had to lift water 200' vertically but 700' horizontally to supply a hilltop home off city water. <S> He wanted to put in a 20A pump circuit, but 20A voltage drop on the 800' wire run was calling for insanely large wire, like 3/0. <S> I was like Wait a minute. <S> There must be an easier way. <S> I ran the numbers on "energy needed to lift water" and figured out he could use a sanely sized solar panel to pump the water past his cabin to 90' above it, to a storage tank, and the extra 90' of head pressurizes his system. <S> It would be passive and power-failure-proof. <S> All he needed was a "tank full" sensor and 14 AWG would suffice for that. <S> Anyway, your water lift is a LOT shorter both vertically and horizontally. <A> I drilled a hole through the house wall where I wanted to locate the aux power receptacle. <S> Put the receptacle box into the wall connected to 14 wire. <S> Ran plastic conduit ( with wire) <S> several feet to where I set up the generator when needed. <S> A short length of wire at the end of the conduit has a male plug to put into the generator. <S> All standard hardware. <S> The 14 wire was an extension cord with the female end cut off.
|
You need a generator inlet that feeds a single outlet.(you seem to know what an inlet is, but it doesn’t need to feed the breaker box, it could just feed a single outlet.) If you had an especially long outage, you could run 12V from your car to top it up.
|
Is an orbit sander preferable over a belt sander for tabletops? Since I will be using a sander rather infrequently, I figured I'd save myself collecting more hardware by buying just a (portable) belt sander and using it for both serious sanding (areas on floors that are unreachable with a machine) and light-weight sanding (wood tabletops). But for tables, I'm having a hard time getting a smooth finish, using 180-grit paper. Maybe 220-grit will make a big difference, but I doubt it. Does either an orbit sander or a mouse sander give you more control when sanding a wood tabletop, to get a smoother finish? (I've applied linseed oil to seal, and am now applying polyurethane to finish). Asked differently, is a belt sander just too much (unmanageable, takes too much too quickly, not random but leaves linear streaks, ..) to be used for finishing tabletops? <Q> Because of the different motions, a belt sander could cause a deeper "line" where the edge of the belt hits the wood, since you can only go back and forth with it, certainly not optimal. <S> With an orbital sander you would be moving it very quickly, in different directions and because of the way the pad moves as well, you would not be "eating" into the wood as quickly or in a line, as mentioned before, this is certainly the way to go. <A> I would NEVER use a belt sander for finish work especially with polyurethane. <S> Can it be done , not with 220 grit and possibly not even with 400 grit. <S> Belt Sanders rip a line with each grain of the paper trying to blend a rough wood to prepare for finish is tough enough but I would say just hand sand the poly before using a belt sander or you will be starting over in my opinion. <A> They only run at a single, fast speed and ergonomics of the thing contribute to digging in. <S> Think how much more abuse your lawn would take being driven over by a car restrained by a chain around the rear bumper. <S> Floor standing machines, by contrast, can be much less aggressive. <S> Thickness sanders are used to dimension wood for instruments. <S> Wide belt sanders can put a finish sanding on just about anything. <S> That being said, unless there's an absolute ton of dust in the air I'm partial to hand sanding finishes (as opposed to the underlying wood). <S> It doesn't really take any longer with practice, and it's less cumbersome when switching from the block to paper for curved surfaces. <S> [Though once the table is large enough I'd switch to a machine.] <S> As far as the wood itself goes, I've always liked a half sheet orbital sander for large surfaces like tabletops. <S> The extra size is a big improvement over the palm sander and you can go flush into corners with it. <S> The quarter sheet palm sanders are probably a bit more convenient for most things though. <S> FYI the largest advantage of the round random orbital sander over the sheet ones historically is that the disks come with holes in them which allows you to connect it to dust collection. <S> It still beats the hole punch guide newer sheet sanders that support dust collection subject you to. <S> If you only work outdoors both are viable options. <A> YES! <S> In simple terms, the "grit" with the belt sander moves in a single direction at a high rate of speed. <S> That's good when you're trying to remove a lot of wood, but not so good when you want a nice smooth surface for finishing. <S> The uniformity of the resulting pattern is easy for the eye to pick out and sometimes will be made more prominent by stains and polyurethane finishes, etc. <S> On the other hand, the random orbital sander moves the "grit" in random directions without leaving a recognizable pattern or gouges in the wood. <S> It also moves more slowly allowing for greater precision and control. <S> The resulting surface is much more suited to finish work.
|
Your biggest problem is that handheld belt sanders are optimized for removing large amounts of material quickly.
|
Gas-fired water heater safe to have in living area of home? A un-licensed renovation on our house was performed about 15 years ago, which turned a former garage into a 200 sq ft den directly attached to the rest of the house. In this den is a gas-fired water heater. It is not enclosed, and still has all the same venting it had prior to the renovation. Is having a gas-fired water heater in a living area legal according to the Florida building code? Or to get right to the real point, is this a carbon monoxide hazard? <Q> Venting is vital to ensure combustion products (i.e., CO) do not remain in the living space. <S> If you are in doubt, get the water heater checked by a professional. <S> Carbon monoxide detectors are also required by code - one on each floor and outside each set of bedrooms. <S> But, perhaps counter-intuitively, do not place a CO detector close to the water heater (or any other gas appliance); doing so can lead to false positive readings / alarms. <A> This was very common as natural gas became much more common in the US in the 50's. <S> It was the fastest way to install gas water heat. <S> Not that some modern fool might not write a building code against it. <S> As new homes were built, the heaters were move to basement or garage. <A> According to the Mechanical code a water heater may not obtain combustion air from a living space. <S> If the water heater was not venting properly or was burning rich you could have carbon monoxide problems. <S> A properly functioning water heater however almost doesn’t even need a vent (but I would never try it) since it burns so clean. <S> Kind of like a gas stove. <S> While it is not right I don’t know that I would freak out about it. <S> Garages are okay as long as they have sufficient cubic footage, other rooms may be okay as well as long as not designed living space. <S> This rule changed relatively recently(last 25 years or so) so many homes do not comply with the new code. <S> They are under no obligation to follow some or all of them but they will have their official policy documented. <S> My locality took 99% of the book and changed a couple of codes to local liking. <S> Los Angeles scrapped the National code all together and made their own although most codes parallel the national code. <S> In most cases you will go by either city or county policy depending on where you live. <A> According to UNI 7129 regulations <S> yes, it's regular to have a direct vent (category B) gas appliance if is present a 'permanent vent' calculated according the following formula: vent_aperture_size <S> [cm^2] <S> = <S> 6 <S> x appliance_rated_power [kW] <S> if result is bigger than 100cm^2, else 100cm^2. <S> Gas usage is not allowed in bedroom or bathrooms. <S> According to Florida laws I don't know, but I'll put a carbon monoxide sensor or I'll switch to class-C (sealed chamber) appliance <S> so there's no link between fire chamber and living-space <S> (both inlet and exhaust are directed outside) <S> -> back-drift is impossible (so no risk of CO poisoning)
|
As long as the gas appliance is vented properly, it is not a CO hazard. As with all building codes, they are just recommendations for localities to follow.
|
How can flood water come in through a toilet? Video on Facebook Fredrick Maryland is experiencing severe flooding and one home owner has flood water gushing in the house through the toilet. You can view the video from the Facebook link above. What I don’t understand is how water can come backwards up the toilet? Aren’t there traps and other things that create suction or a seal? I’m not a plumber but I thought the pipes were designed to prevent something like this. <Q> The trap on a toilet (or any plumbing fixture) prevents sewer gas from escaping. <S> It's a very low-pressure thing, consisting solely of a small amount of standing water filling a low spot in the drain. <S> Any force capable of moving a little water can overcome it, including air vacuum if it's not properly vented. <S> In the case of this flooding phenomenon, there must be a break in the city sewer line somewhere, and water standing above it. <S> This obviously creates pressure that will escape at any point below its surface level. <A> Most houses only have traps installed, which prevents sewer gasses from entering the building. <S> They do have a couple of drawbacks, though. <S> There are location and slope restrictions on where they'll work, which can make installation in existing construction difficult. <S> They're also a mechanical device, which can fail. <S> When that happens they do a bang up job of preventing sewage from leaving the building. <S> It's worth mentioning that combined storm and sanitary sewers used to be very popular, and are still fairly common. <S> In some cities they're still working to disconnect downspouts from the sewer system. <S> They are out of favor now for obvious reasons, but not every city is has separate systems for storm water yet. <A> Happened in 2013 in our city. <S> To many sewer and sanitation lines were mixed, broken etc. <S> and 4-6 inches of rain in 90 minutes had 2 feet in most basements, all coming in through the plumbing.
|
Some municipalities do require backflow prevents, which prevent sewage from entering the building.
|
Remove cam lock pushed the wrong way into Ikea furniture I messed up trying to assemble an IKEA bed. I accidentally pushed the cam lock with the smooth side facing out. Now I have no way to rotate it to tighten the cam lock and bolt to secure the two pieces of wood. How do I remove it? I have attached some images. The part numbered 104895 is facing the wrong way at one location. Is there a way I can extract it? <Q> If using a hammer, put a small piece of wood (like, a chunk of 2x4) against your furniture, then strike this wood. <S> That way it won't mess up the finish on your furniture. <S> Just a few taps. <S> Don't hit it so hard that you break your other connections! :) <S> Sometimes it works to hit the same face of the wood which has the hole drilled into it (right next to the hole). <S> Other times it works if works if you tap the furniture directly behind the hole where the nut is buried. <S> Give them both a try. <A> You can try a really strong magnet. <S> If it starts spinning then reduce the speed of the drill and try to insert your screw while its spinning. <S> If it doesn't spin and you drill through to the open area <S> then you should be able to pull it out with a coat hanger with the end bent. <A> I'd start with Platinum Goose's drilling suggestion. <S> Otherwise, a drop of super glue on the end of a steel dowel with a very flat surface would do well. <A> Stick a piece of double-sided mounting tape on the end of a dowel or large-headed nail and press it against the cam lock. <S> Pull it out. <S> If you don't have ready access to mounting tape, use a small dot of hot melt glue in the center of the dowel end (if the cam lock is buried inside a hole, hot melt glue could spread out when you press the dowel, and glue in the dowel, so not the best solution in that case). <A> Use a Dremel moto-tool with a cutting disc to cut a slot in the blank face. <S> DONE. <S> Now the cam lock is double faced.
|
Sometimes you can knock them out by striking the wood furniture next to the hole, either with your hand or with a hammer. If that doesn't work you can try drilling it.
|
Is this small slope a problem installing vinyl plank? We are going to install luxury vinyl plank flooring in our basement. This product clicks together and floats, much like laminate. Two questions: The cement slab/subfloor is fairly level, with one exception: There is a 36"W walkout door, and the floor slopes down about 1/2" over the 6-8" before the door threshold. Is this 1/2" descent enough to worry about when installing the floor? If so, any suggestions? Here's a pic of the flooring extending to the threshold showing the slope: In the pic you can also see a marble threshold. This abuts the actual door threshold (which you can't see in the pic). Wondering if I should remove the marble threshold and put in one more suited to laminate or vinyl, with a lip to hold the flooring down under it. Maybe something like this: If I use this, can I just bend the vinyl flooring down the slope and secure it under the threshold's lip, or do I need to fill in the cement to make the entry area level before installing the threshold and flooring? Thanks, Jim <Q> Yes, this will be a problem if done as is. <S> The product you show - that's a bullnose. <S> It's used on steps. <S> It's not suited for your intended use and it won't work anyway because you're on concrete. <S> I suggest you get some patch leveling compound. <S> It's a concrete product that's fairly thick. <S> You apply it to the uneven areas of your floor with a nice wide trowel and use a long straight board to basically boost up the sinking area of the floor to create a nice level surface. <S> That will keep the boards from sinking when stepped on and keep the top of the floor close to level with the marble threshold for a nice safe walking surface. <S> Get pre-mixed leveler. <S> One container should be enough: <A> You could probably remove the marble and flex the flooring down. <S> It's going to look odd, though, and will create a valley where debris will collect. <S> If the recess in the threshold you mentioned no longer works in that case, use a transition like you showed. <A> VERY simple fix for your issue that does not involve self leveler. <S> I would even cut a small 1/4 inch piece as well to place next to it to give more a smoother transition. <S> Glue the plywood down with construction adhesive. <S> This will also give you the ability to cut the plywood to leave you a grove between the vinyl floor and other floor to use the proper click in transition piece. <S> Such as..
|
Lift off the marble threshold, cut a piece of 1/2 inch plywood to place under the transition to fit. If you don't stabilize that flooring by leveling the floor beneath, you will find the floor will sink under your feet as you step on it in that point, and since there's a fixed threshold, you'll create a tripping hazard in the process. They're meant to be nailed in place. If it were my project I'd fill the depression with self-leveling material and flatten the floor.
|
Can I stabilize the tire tracks of a gravel driveway with hot tar? I have a gravel road with a number of hills but one is long and steep. Generally this guy is close to un-drivable within 6 months. I do not have the money to asphalt this hill, nor can I fix this twice a year. That leaves all kinds of folks refusing to come up over the last 6 months. Would it be possible to cut a "V" down each tire track, maybe 10 or 12" deep. At that point put a small amount of gravel down at the bottom of the V and then heat and pour some tar over it and quickly throw some more gravel on top and continue doing this until the V is full? Maybe put a few pieces of rebar in side to side to keep it from sliding down the hill? Thank youDoug <Q> And when it gets driven on in a way that the wheels of vehicles veer off the sides it will still tear up the remaining dirt and the edges of your special formation. <S> The best wisdom of how to deal with the problem is going to come from experts that deal with this situation in your local area. <S> They will understand the soil, terrain and local methods to build effective driveways. <S> So I would really suggest asking around and get that expert advice. <A> Intriguing, but I’ve never heard of such an installation. <S> It sounds like the problem is due to ice during 6 months of the year, because the steepness isn’t a problem the other 6 months. <S> If so, you need heat tape installed on the hills so you can turn it on and melt the ice when it gets cold. <S> If the problem is due to traction, I’d install grooves in a “V” shape that diverts water, mud, etc. <S> off to the side of the road surface. <S> The grooves would create some gripping for the tires too. <A> Here is the best way to get a long term fix on a shale or crushed quarry drive. <S> First add 3/4 minus to the trenches and use a plate compactor (hard work on a steep grade) or rent a roller, pack it <S> then I use a grass seed spreader with Portland cement. <S> After that I broom it into the nooks and crannies, if it looks well filled <S> I mist it with a hose and then repeat the next day if I think it needs it <S> , I don't think you can do two much <S> but my last home had a very steep driveway I installed dropping 20' in 50 or so feet <S> , I did this in 2000 <S> my daughter lives there now and it is still holding up but could use some work after all these years <S> , I think I used 4 or 5 bags <S> but this included a section that was not as steep.
|
The work to create the V-grooves that you propose seem like it could be labor intensive and still demand a lot of materials that make it expensive.
|
Why is there 4 inches of metal at on each side of this column? I have a column in my kitchen. As far as I can tell this is a decorative column, and doesn't contain anything structural -- I live in a high rise, it really cannot contain anything structural. Yet, according to my fancy stud detector, it has metal 4 inches from either side, as shown here: This doesn't seem to be a corner bead -- it seems to be an entirely different beast. If you want to see the stud finder in action: Can I drill through this? How thick is it? What is it? Can I still drill through this, and use a plastic toggle anchor ? UPDATE So, there's a couple things in here. I bought a Depstech Boroscope (I do not recommend buying one of these, they suck, but then again, there's not really any decent competition for them). First, to answer people what the metal was -- it was just boring studs. Inside, it gets a lot more interesting, as you can see in the metal studs picture, there's some insulation. That's the hot water pipe. There's also a cold water pipe in there, and some electrical conduit. The column itself is pretty idiot-proofed, but there's no armor on the pipework, instead <Q> The metal that you are detecting is probably the metal studs that are in each corner of the column. <S> From the picture it looks like that column is also sheathed in drywall <S> and so there may very well be a metal corner strip along each vertical edge as well. <S> The metal studs width are typically going to be 3.5 inches. <S> The drywall thickness from the adjoining sides is 0.5 inches and with the metal corner piece it adds up to the 4 inches that you are seeing. <S> As mentioned in comments this column is most likely a place where some part of the building infrastructure is located. <S> It could be a structural beam, vertical routing space for water or gas piping or electrical wiring. <S> As to whether you can use conventional drywall anchors to mount light weight things to the living space side it would be best to be certain what is inside this thing before you go drilling holes in it. <S> It could be OK <S> but then again it could be something to be highly discouraged for a variety of reasons. <A> Can I drill through this? <S> I wouldn't until you've determined exactly what it is. <S> I can come up with suggestions (see lower down this answer) <S> but you may need to take the drywall off, check what it is, and then if it's not an issue you could reinstate drywall, make good, and then drill. <S> What is it? <S> The drainage stack is often located in the kitchen, and it is often convenient to run supply pipes in the column boxed around the drainage stack. <S> My kitchen drainage stack carries the mains water from the ground floor (first floor for American English speakers) to the first floor (second floor in AmE), and the hot water pipe from the first floor hot water tank to my kitchen sink on the ground floor. <A> If you hit metal, stop Regardless of what else it might be <S> , it might be a metal plate placed there on purpose to guard electrical wiring or plastic piping. <S> Such a plate is required anytime pipes or wiring is within 1.75" of the surface. <S> It is there only to warn.
|
It could be metal pipes.
|
Bottom shelf of cabinet, support weight of itself? I have another question posted about making my kitchen island movable. To do this, I have to put it on casters. The most aesthetically pleasing method is to have the casters inside that 4" void below the cabinet's bottom "shelf". We all know cabinets rest on the edges of the piece that comes down where the toekick is.... however, to make this babe roll I will plan on installing 3/4" ply, the side of the underside of that base, with 4 casters. Then the cabinet will sit down "on" the plywood platform. However, this means those 4 side pieces that normally hold the base won't make contact with the floor at all since it's going to be mobile. My question is, can that typically hold all the base cabinet? or is it not designed for that upward force from the weight on the plywood platform? <Q> Knowing nothing about the construction of your cabinetry, I would not trust the bottom shelf to carry the weight of the cabinet, the cabinet's contents, and all the children and dogs likely to be on top of it all. <S> That shelf is designed to carry load applied downward . <S> Instead, get some heavy angle brackets and fasten them to the side panels of the cabinet using backer plates of 3/4" plywood, which you'd mount with construction adhesive and 1-1/4" screws. <S> Mount your casters to the angle brackets. <A> Most cabinet floors (bottom shelf) are mortised into the sides and that is helpful as long as the plywood platform you install fits snugly against the sides so the weight of the cabinet is transferred up through the floor to the top edge of the mortise. <S> Additionally, the 3/4" plywood will add structure that will help prevent the cabinet joints from racking if it bumps into something while moving around. <S> Again, a lot depends on the construction of the cabinet, but I would not trust the floor mortise entirely. <S> It would be much better if the plywood platform had a direct connection to the sides. <S> The sides of the cabinet are what bear the weight. <S> The front and back may bear some, but not as much as the sides. <S> Even if you have to install a cleat inside the toe kick void at the bottom of the cabinet, it is important to transfer the load to the sides of the cabinet. <A> Unless your floor is extraordinarily flat, only 3 or 4 of the 8 casters are going to bear much weight. <S> So 125 to 200 lbs each for your 500 to 600 loaded island. <S> That concentrated weight is going to dimple the vinyl, which is going to make it difficult to roll. <S> Plus the 8 casters are going to battle against each other to swivel into the right direction, causing some of them "scrape" the vinyl as they swing into position. <S> Moving the island will require pushing hard enough to npot only roll up and out of the dimples, but also hard enough to get the 8 casters swiveled into alignment in the desired direction. <S> A better idea would be temporary external dollies. <S> I have ideas on how to make that work, but my point was to point out negative aspects of your otherwise excellent idea. <A> As others have pointed out, the bottom shelf is not designed to carry the weight of the cabinet on its own. <S> I would like to offer some alternative solutions. <S> First is the Rockler Workbench Caster Kit <S> The adapter plate included in the kit makes them removable. <S> These are heavy duty, designed for shop use. <S> The reason I like this option is that the "island" would only be mobile when you want to move it and it would rest on the floor when in use. <S> This is important because you want a stable work platform that will not move if you lean on it . <S> The down side to these is that they are not attractive for a kitchen/home environment and they stick out quite a bit and would be a trip hazard. <S> that is where the bracket included in the kit come in. <S> The bracket allows you remove the casters when not needed and put them on only when you need to move the island. <S> Only the adapter would remain on the cabinet , not too unattractive and you could paint them to match. <S> Next are these corner casters . <S> These would be in the void space under the cabinet as you had planned, they would raise the cabinet 1 inch. <S> The downside is they can not be locked into place. <S> And as mentioned by April they would possibly dimple a softer flooring materiel. <S> I would use machine bolts or hex bolts with washers and nuts through the side of cabinet to secure them. <S> The hex head of the bolt would be visible on the side of the panels but you could paint or otherwise disguise them. <S> These casters allow the weight of the cabinet to rest on the side panels so you would not have the weight on the bottom shelf. <S> I am not a affiliated with Rockler, i just love their products.
|
This depends a lot on the construction of the cabinet.
|
Attaching a towel hook to a glass shower door We have a glass shower door. We have nowhere else to hang our towels in our tiny bathroom except on the back of the door. We've tried Command hooks, and we've tried using them with what we were told was an "industrial" adhesive for them, but they keep coming off. What's the correct way to permanently attach a towel hook to tempered glass? <Q> You could use over door hooks, such as this, on the bathroom door. <S> Google suction cup hooks for hooks that attach to glass. <S> Supermagnet hooks are also available. <S> You could attach a decorative metal plate to the bathroom door for them. <S> What type of adhesive do I use to bond metal & glass? <S> The accepted answer recommended epoxy. <A> Your best bet is a wall mounted towel rack with a swing arm(s), attached to the wall near the corner between the shower door and the wall. <S> https://duckduckgo.com/?q=swing+arm+towel+rack&iax=images&ia=images <S> This would have the added benefit of quicker drying if you swing it out to 45 degrees when you're finished in the bathroom, thus allowing free air circulation on both sides of the towel. <S> Potentially, there are variations on this idea, such as a floor to ceiling pole with swing arms, or a swing arm unit that attaches to frame of the door or to the door jamb. <A> Your local auto parts store should have a simple kit for mounting rear view mirrors to windshield glass. <S> It may be intended for metal, though, so choose your hooks carefully. <S> Plan well. <A> There is an ingenious method of permanently bonding to glass shown in the how to video for this product that will work for your needs
|
Or use a supermagnet hook on one side of the glass door and an non-hook supermagent on the other side EDIT: Here is a link about attaching metal to glass. I'd also consider cyanoacrylate (super glue).
|
Insulating that attic hatch - the type with fold-out steps This attic hatch does have fold-out steps inside... It would be great to put a layer of insulation at the level A: unfortunately, once the steps triple-fold and you put the hatch up, the folded steps come up an extra at least a foot .. the height of "B" or more. (Notice I simply lay some insulation panels there - the white stuff with the bar code - when the steps fold up and you shut the hatch, those panels are pushed way up high: it's largely useless, of course air just flows in the sides.) the literal hatch is 52x24, the surrounds above are about 29x28. Is there something for this? Bonus question: i thought of at least carefully fitting insulation inside the gaps in the ladder: my guess is that would probably be useless - experts ?? I guess a follow up question is are solutions like this integrated cover rubbish cheap solutions, or ok ? (I notice some are simply "boxes" that just "sit on" the attic floor - seems useless. that one pins in at least.) As a curiosity for anyone reading. Notice (image 2) I simply threw some (three layers) of insulating panel up there, resting above the ladder. This is totally useless because, when you fold up the ladder, it lifts them in the air many inches. So TBC there is a huge air gap around the sides, it is not at all sealed. Very bizarrely even this crappy measure drastically cut the heat reaching the outside of the hatch!!!! <Q> I built an insulation scheme for just this situation in a Minnesota custom home years ago. <S> It involved several things: <S> A second hinged trap door that swings upward. <S> This was two layers of 3/8" plywood sandwiching 6" of rigid foam. <S> Latex adhesive and sleeve <S> bolts held it all together. <S> This door was oversized to lap across the insulated walls. <S> A hook and eye (into a board spanning the roof truss members above) were used to keep the upper door open during use. <S> Soft foam weatherstripping between the lapped door skin and the top of the walls to seal against airflow. <S> It's not simple, but it's the right way to keep your room comfortable and your heating bill reasonable. <S> Plan carefully to be sure your hinge situation will work as you planned in the space available. <A> Replace the entire unit with a modern one designed for energy efficiency. <S> Yes, there is expense with this option but units are available that have better than 5x energy value compared to your old one, due to interlocking seal between the door and frame <S> (eliminates air passing through) and insulated door panel. <A> FTR, I did purchase one of these products - they are about 80 bucks only: <S> They are FANTASTIC. <S> Basically AMAZING in my use case. <S> ( example product) <S> With no other change at all, it reduced the temperature of our upstairs by around seven degrees , which is nuts. <S> I have an IR thermo and it slashed the temperature of the underside of the hatch and surrounds - amazing. <S> It would be crazy not to buy one of these if you have this type of hatch and you're in a hot area. <S> Fantastic! <S> BTW secondly, I learned of the critical importance of ventilation in a (hot type) attic. <S> Ventilation + one of these inexpensive hatch insulators with a zip, solved the problem totally!
|
Framed, insulated walls immediately outside the hatch opening with an R-value appropriate for your climate zone, flush on top of the hatch opening (or as tall as needed to clear the folded stair set).
|
How can I fix a chipped acrylic tub? I dropped something on my Kohler white acrylic tub while installing CBU and it took off a small chip from the corner. What is the best option for fixing this? Here's a picture of the chip: <Q> I would suggest a 2-part white epoxy putty. <S> You will need to clean/prep the area then knead the putty per the mfgr. <S> instructions. <S> Don't use the fast-setting variety, you need time to shape the repair to match the tub (shape using knife, file, planer, sandpaper, etc.) <S> It won't be an invisible repair but it will stick, be waterproof, and be hard when cured. <A> I had a chip fixed by a fiberglass boat builder a few years ago. <A> You can buy a kit of everything you need at Amazon and major hardware chains like Home Depot and Lowes. <S> The cheap kits just contain some epoxy putty and the basic accessories you need to prepare the surface, apply the putty, and sand the hardened putty smooth. <S> The better kits also include finer sanding materials to polish the surface, and some form of top coat to match the color and leave a glossy surface similar to the tub's acrylic. <S> Here's a video of the process put out by a company that sells a kit in England. <S> I don't know anything about that company, but <S> the video is well done and will give you a good idea about the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6b3ppGCnQME
|
I’ll bet a surfboard fabricator could fix it too.
|
Indicator with two-way switch We have a two way switch for an exhaust fan. The fan is out of sight from the switches. So, the problem we face is we have no clue if the fan is on or off looking at the switch. I tried to see if there are two-way switches with indicators attached (like this one for a one-way switch). But there are none. They have a stand-alone indicator lamp, however. Will it be OK if I connect the stand-alone indicator lamp is series with the exhaust fan? BTW, this is at home on a 220-240V 5A circuit. <Q> If you want a solution that doesn't require running any additional wires, you might consider getting a couple of 1000:1 current transformers. <S> Run the common leg of each switch through a transformer, and put a couple of back-to-back diodes across the secondary. <S> If one (or both) of those diodes is an LED, it will light up whenever load current is flowing in the circuit. <S> For example, 5 amps of load current will put 5 mA through the LED. <S> But modern LEDs will light up quite nicely on much lower currents. <A> Figure 1. <S> Both neons will light when the fan is off. <S> How it works: <S> There is always one of the pair of wires between the switches at 'live' potential. <S> If the fan is on the other wire will be disconnected at both ends. <S> The neon lamps will turn off as there is no neutral connection. <S> If the fan is off (as shown in Figure 1 then the top wire will be live and the bottom wire will be connected to N through the fan which provides a relatively low resistance path (compared to the neons). <S> The neons will light. <S> Note that the fan can never be fully isolated from mains using the switches in this scenario. <S> Figure 2. <S> A green panel-mount neon indicator. <S> One of this style of indicator could be mounted on the face of a 2-way UK switchplate to give a professional looking finish. <S> I'd go with green to indicate the fan is "off" rather than the usual red for "on" but bear in mind that the neon lamps usually give off an orange glow which is rather pale by the time it gets through the green filter. <A> Any indicator light, (I don't know what a stand-alone light is), is not going to be able to carry the current to a exhaust fan. <S> Depending on the type of lamp. <S> For your own safety, I recommend a qualified electrician. <A> For series connection to work you'd need lamps that use the same current as the fan. <S> it quick search indicates the motors in small extraction fans typicaly use about 0.4A of current, so for series connection you'll need lamps that will work ok with the same current, and at as low voltage as possible. <S> you can get 2W 3V lamps and two of them in series with a 230V fan motor <S> would have little effect on the fan speed but should glow orange <S> but that's assuming 0.4A - the exact current needs of the motor will determine which lamp should be used. <S> Although they are low voltage parts you'll need insulated housings for the lamps as they will be live to full mains voltage when the power is on. <S> (one of them will always be live, the other switched)
|
The lamp will burn out, or the fan will simply not operate if connected in series. A perverse solution requiring two neon lamps.
|
how specific must rocker switch specs be? My son has this little car he drives around and the reverse direction stopped working. I took it apart, did some hard-wiring tests and found that the switch was failing (both gear work if I hard-wire the connection that the switch is responsible for making.) This is the exact switch but it is out of stock, and I can't find it anywhere else online. Must a 6 pin replacement switch be exactly 20A, 250VAC? Or can either parameter vary? if so, how much more or less? <Q> Here is a switch that should do the trick for you. <S> It is rated at 22A/250V. Mounting hole size looks to be the same as the Aliexpress item that you linked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-20A-125V-22A-250V-DPDT-6-Terminal-2-Position-Boat-Rocker-Switch/272975729244?hash=item3f8e9f125c:g:XFsAAOSwnPla8b-Z <A> If you know the actual parameters then you can downgrade based on the actual parameters used. <S> If you don't know, then play it safe. <S> You can always go UP - e.g., 30A instead of 20A or 500VAC instead of 250VAC. <S> It is quite likely that the switch has far higher specs than actually needed for the circuit, but without knowing how the device works <S> (how is it powered & how much power does it use), it is impossible to guess. <S> But I'll guess anyway - <S> my hunch is that the voltage is lower, and very likely DC rather than AC - perhaps 12VDC or 24VDC. <S> DC voltage is continuous, where AC cycles, but while that means 250VDC would likely require a better switch than 250VAC, a more typical (for a toy) <S> 12VDC would not, and in fact a 250VAC switch is probably far more than needed. <S> But more details are needed to know for sure. <A> That type of switch should be readily available from electronics suppliers such as Mouser, Digi-Key, Galco, etc. <S> You want a Rocker switch Termination: <S> Quick Connect Terminal <S> aka spade <S> Mounting style: panel (meaning it goes in a rectangle) Contact form: DPDT Switch function: on-on; or on-off-on <S> if you want a "neutral" position Markings: same as the old switch (probably blank, certainly not 0/1) <S> Current: <S> 20A or larger DC Voltage: (actual working voltage of your car, or larger) <S> Measure carefully and check the data sheets for the physical dimensions <S> , you should have no trouble finding a UL-listed (as a component) switch. <S> Everything sold by these shops will be UL listed or equivalent. <S> Expect prices in the $1-4 range + domestic shipping. <S> Don't even think of buying from the infinite fountain of "cheap"* Cheese junk: Alibaba, Aliexpress, Alianything, eBay, Amazon "Marketplace" etc. -- especially at those prices. <S> $7 for a switch <S> are they kidding??? <S> I'm troubled that all the links in this Q&A so far are all that garbage. <S> Stop buying that. <S> * $7 for a switch. <S> SMH... <A> I have replaced several of these switches on the gear shift. <S> Look at the side of the switch and you will find a number similar to R11. <S> I only had a switch body on the shelf <S> but I believe the last one was on-off-on for the gear shift. <S> This is the important part because a different switch is used for the "gas" pedal <S> it was a R11-8 DPDT switch that is momentary on-off. <S> So as long as you get the same type double pole double throw 6 pins that is rated at the same or more amperage it can work. <S> FWIW, I usually purchase several at a time <S> but I have several of these for grandkids. <S> And both the shifter and gas pedal tend to go out.
|
A standard R11 DPDT switch 16 amp switch is what power wheels use.
|
Help cutting/squaring floor joist for shed I am a novice, and i am trying to build a shed myself. I don't have any framing experience. I purchased a miter saw, and a circular saw. The plans call for 2x8 floor joists with 3 inches shorter on the inner short boards. So i purchased two 2x8x10 boards, and two 2x8x12 boards, cutting the 2x8x10 3 inches shorter. First the boards arent exactly 10ft.. they are about 5/8 of an inch longer. Why is that? Second i don't have a table for the miter saw so i figured id get by with a circular saw.. i see the framers who build houses by me pretty much use only that.. i cut one end to make sure it's straight.. as it wasn't perfect. Then i made my final cut.. well i had a guide board, and not too expierenced with a circular saw, it kept getting stuck because of the blade guard was s getting caught and not sliding up. What was i doing wrong here? Finally i got the cut straight as i had to go in a little bit to correct the cut. Now the cut is about 1/8th too short. I stopped here because i need advice. These boards are $15 a piece.. can i still use this one? Does every cut have tp be perfect? Can it be a little off and still be fine? Am i over doing it trying to use a guide board? I see the framers zipping ends off free handed.. and im wondering if i am trying to be too perfect. I don't want to assume anything and have the shed look like a teo year old built it. Maybe i need to just get a miter saw table and stick with using that? Please help give me some pointers on measurements to get my shed floor frame square. thank you! <Q> Practice, practice, practice. <S> Very few people are born with circular saw skills. <S> Your blade guard issues might be a crummy saw, or you might not be coming in flat and straight. <S> Make sure it moves smoothly and clean/lube it, if needed. <S> Wood being oversize is just one of those things. <S> As long as you don't get less than a 10', you should be happy. <S> Regarding the undersized by 1/8" bit, you could probably ignore it, or cut all the rest of your pieces to match. <S> Chances are you won't notice it either way. <S> If a guide board is working for you to get square cuts, then keep doing that. <S> Otherwise, see the above about practice. <S> For what it's worth, a sharp blade won't try to wander like a dull blade will. <A> Back in the day when dimensional lumber ( DM ) was categorized into sizes 2x4 2x6 etc <S> they were actually the dimension of their name. <S> Over the years for the sake of getting more saleable board feet from the same size tree lumber mills started to make the DM smaller then its name. <S> I.E. <S> Now a 2x4 is actually 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 <S> ( i attribute it to greed <S> but i am sure if there is a GOOD reason someone above my pay grade will correct me.) <S> A good way to make straight cuts on dimensional lumber is to use a speed square as a fence or straight edge to guide your circular saw. <S> Watch this video form This Old House to learn more. <S> I use my free hand to help guide the saw and keep it from moving side to side. <S> Sometimes the guard will hang up, Clamp your piece to a work bench/table and then hold the guard in the up position until you get far enough into your cut that you can let it down without it getting caught. <S> Technically all your joist should be the same measurement, so that your rin joist that runs perpendicular to them and is what the joist are attached to is not a wavy line. <S> If you are using joist hangers and it is <S> just a shed you may decide that it is OK to use it and just shim the 1/8th gap, or your could cut all ofthe joist shorter to match but this will change all of your dimensions for your walls etc. <S> Not a big deal if your wall etc are not standard dimensions and you are going to have to cut your wall plates, wall sheathing anyway. <S> It is a shed and a learning experience, have fun. <A> The best way I know to cut framing lumber square with a circular saw is to get one of these protractor saw guide devices. <S> They are adjustable for cutting at any angle but are normally setup for making square cuts. <S> I use a framing square to set the protractor to an accurate 90 degrees since the built in angle pointer is not always super accurate. <S> Saw Guide Protractor: Framing Square: <S> Saw Guide Protrator <S> In Use Making <S> Angle Cut: <A> It is refreshing that you are able to purchase lumber that it longer than the length described, even if it is only 5/8" more. <S> All lumber that I can recall used to be sold that way. <S> Only recently in the past years of big box stores is the lumber exactly 10' or 12' and so on. <S> The purpose for this was if you cut a number of blocks from a piece and each saw cut removed 1/8" you could still come up with 4- 24" blocks from an 8' piece or something like that. <S> Another reason, back in the day, the ends of the lumber from the sawmill were not all cut square, so it was needed to cut all ends to ensure squareness. <S> If I am picturing your use of your saw, you are right handed and the narrow side of the table of your saw is the side you are resting on the material to recut the ends of your material. <S> The guard from this position of cutting is not shaped to automatically raise while cutting. <S> Only the wider base of the circular saw allows this. <S> An 1/8" short is no big deal, for joists, there should be joist hangers involved which will take up any slack or slight shortness of cut. <S> For that matter the shed could be made a bit smaller, it does not have to be 10'X 12", it could be 9'-11" <S> X 11'-11" and work perfectly still. <S> As mentioned in another answer, practice makes perfect, but with a careful eye you can cut your framing. <S> The trick I use to watch my cut line is to look through a small space from the short side of the saw base where the edge of the blade is visible. <S> That way I can watch my cut and not get pounded by sawdust.
|
Once you get proficient with a circular saw you can cut very well by just making a straight line and free hand cutting on the line.
|
115V to 230V converter In the US some air conditioners require 230V outlets. My apartment only has 115V outlets. Is there a way to convert 115V to 230V so AC can run without loss in cooling power? <Q> However you must understand that transformers can trade off voltage for current <S> but they can't magic power out of thin air. <S> The feed supplying the transformer must cover both the power requirements of the load and the losses in the transformer. <S> Power is proportional to voltage times current (if the power factor was 1 it would be equal to voltage times current). <S> In other words if a transformer is converting 120V to 240V <S> then the input current will be more than double the output current. <S> The problem you will run into is if an air conditioner designed for the US market requires 240V then it probablly requires more power than can be supplied by a normal domestic socket. <S> I am looking at this unit https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-FFRH2522R2-Window-Mounted-Room-Conditioner/dp/B00VV2JORQ/ref=sr_1_10?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1525402023&sr=1-10&keywords=16000+btu <S> https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=FFRH2522R2 <S> https://www.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support--Manuals/?productCode=FFRH2522R2 <S> claims that unit takes 11.3 amps, double that and add some overhead for the transformer <S> and you would be looking at around 25 amps from your 120V supply. <S> Regular domestic sockets in the USA are rated at at best 20A and more commonly <S> 15A. Furthremore <S> those are only intermittant ratings. <S> Sorry <S> but you either need to find a smaller AC unit that will run off a normal doestic socket or you need to get an electrian in. <A> There are 120V to 220/230 voltage converters. <S> The simplest is a 1:2 transformer. <S> Alternative are modern electronic converters. <S> Check how many ampere or VA your equipment uses. <S> It should be on a label next to the voltage. <S> Then chose a transformer or converter which preferable a bit more ampere or VA then that. <S> If you have the ampere or VA <S> a good electronics shop should know what to sell you. <S> Whatever: do not plug your 230V AC into a 120V socket. <S> You have no idea what is inside e.g. there is likely a compressor which may not run on 120V, but still heat up and catch fire. <A> It may be possible, depending on how many watts your AC unit uses. <S> What you're looking for is a "110 to 220v transformer". <S> Here's an example: <S> https://www.amazon.com/Bright-VC1500W-Voltage-Transformer-converter/dp/B000MXW85A Make sure your AC is designed for 60hz. <S> If it's meant to be used in the US then it probably is. <S> The transformer will convert the voltage, but it will not change the frequency.
|
It is in principle possible to run a 240V load off a 120V supply using a transformer.
|
10-50 to 6-50 wiring Suppose someone has a 240V 50A plug at a rental house. It is wired to a 10-50 receptical. My understanding is that this is a deprecated standard, and my guess is that it is 6-50 wiring that was put into a 10-50 receptical. Suppose they want to change the receptical to 6-50. There are three wires which I will call (G)reen, (R)ed, and (B)lack. The heavy duty wire is in a metal sheath that is earthed (E) Using a multimeter I detect:E-G: 0E-R: ~120VE-B: ~120VG-R: ~120VG-B: ~120VR-B: ~240V My read of this is that I can simply change the receptical to 6-50. Is there any specific risk to this? It's a relatively modern house. Are there any other tests that I can perform to determine whether this is 10-50 wiring or 6-50 wiring? Does this matter? The difference seems rather subtle. Aside: It's not particularly relevant, but the wire I referred to as red was actually white. It's clearly live, so this is the "typical" I've-only-got-three-wires-and-don't-want-to-cap-a-white-wire-so-I-declare-white-equals-red. I have put black tape on it to make this clear. I haven't opened the distribution box to look at the wiring, but am hoping that the multimeter can give me enough information. As requested, here is a photo of the junction box internals, showing the white wire (with a bit of black tape on it), black wire (these are both hot and 180 degrees out of phase), and green wire (it is 0V from the earth and electrically connected to it presumably at the distribution board). Further thought: According to this discussion board which agrees with my other reading, 10-50 is hot-hot-neutral and 6-50 is hot-hot-earth. Since my green wire is in continuity with the box, my wires are hot-hot-earth. <Q> Assuming that cable is in fact 6 AWG, that cable was always correct for a NEMA 6-50 receptacle. <S> It was always wrong for a NEMA 10-50. <S> It really matters. <S> Some people have seen the inside of a panel and see where neutrals and grounds land on the same bus. <S> Neutral and ground serve very different purposes. <S> One returns current normally, the other one is a safety net that saves lives. <S> However in a simple residence, there is only one panel, so they allow the shortcut of simply putting them all on one bus. <S> That's all. <S> The only wire relabeling that is permitted is a white wire in a cable can be relabeled to be a hot, so what you have done is correct. <S> This is the normal way of powering NEMA 6 circuits using common multiconductor cable. <S> Being a modern house, if this was a range circuit they would have already used /3 <S> cable and your range receptacle would already be a NEMA 14-50. <S> So I gather this is in a utility space and is intended for welders, kilns, EV chargers and the like. <S> A great many of those work fine without neutral, so you may never need a neutral. <S> If you did, you'd need to replace the entire cable. <S> You also cannot use the MC shield as a ground path, so you do need the green wire. <A> in the common flavor of type MC cable, the armor is grounded , but not a grounding means as it can't be guaranteed to carry current. <S> At this point, you have two options (with your landlord's consent of course): <S> Rerun <S> the cable (if practical) <S> -- this may be the easiest if it's an exposed run and you and your landlord are comfortable with this, or if the landlord's electrician feels most comfortable with this for that matter. <S> A 6/3 MC cable can be used here to provide neutral and ground, converting it for future installation of a modern NEMA 14-50R in case an appliance that needs both 120 and 240V needs to be plugged in here. <S> Convert this to a 6-50 only setup <S> -- this is simply a matter of switching the 10-50R out for a 6-50R, and making sure the yoke contacts the box directly with no little cardboard squares in the way in order to ground the box. <A> 2 <S> Are there any other tests that I can perform to determine whether this is 10-50 wiring or 6-50 wiring? <S> Use a wire gauge. <S> This is a piece of stiff metal with holes that just fit 6 AWG etc. <S> wire. <S> They exist as standalone tools but are also commonly found drilled into the side of wire stripper and crimper combo tools. <S> Look for the numbered holes. <S> 3 <S> Does this matter? <S> The difference seems rather subtle. <S> The terminations on the 6-50 receptacle are listed to handle certain wire sizes (and Al/Cu or Cu only). <S> They are not tested for safety with other wire sizes.
|
This is indeed the wiring to support a 6-50 receptacle What you appear to have is a 6/2 MC cable where the neutral has been retagged to a second hot -- That's not quite what's happening. They are supposed to be kept totally separate, with equipotential bonding created between neutral and ground in one place - the main panel. You cannot retask that green wire to be anything else. There’s a good chance you have one of these in your toolbox.
|
Calculate conductors for box fill I have a 5 gang switch box I'm trying to calculate how many "conductors" I can have in it. Basically my main question is, do wires that originate and terminate inside the box count as +1 each (wires in nuts/splices going to switch)? Or is it only wires that originate outside the box and come into it? I have a 63in³ (2.75x2.5x9.25) box with 5x standard switches, I'm looking to replace with zwave switches. From my calculations I have (all 14ga): +12 Hot/Neutral wires coming into the box (2 from breaker panel, 10 feeding the 5 lights) +1 Ground (6 bare ground coming in/out but only 1 counts for this?) +1 wire clamps in the box +10 Devices ( 5 switches, counts as 2 each) +3 Traveler wires (Do these count?) So if it's that simple, I need at least a 54in³ and I'm good. But my question is what about the spliced short wires that originate and terminate in the box? So if all 6 of my neutrals (for the 5 switches and 1 live) are bonded together under a wire nut, then I run a neutral from that bond to each of the switches, that's +5 more spliced wires, do they need to get counted? And if I do similar for ground and hot that's another +10. Then I get into more fun dilemmas like max conductors in a wire nut and making splicing chains (my GB reds say only 5x #14). It's a really ugly layout I wish they had split this up into different boxes, but I want to convert this whole thing so it can be put on my HA system. The current layout of 5x 2-wire switches has a lot less wires in the box so box fill isn't as much of a concern, but considering smart switches need both neutral and ground running to them as well it adds a lot more to that box. It's going to be really cramped with all the splices/wire nuts. Anything else I'm not considering? Thanks! <Q> Reading your question, it appears you are familiar with NEC Article 310.14 <S> so lets not get into that. <S> Bundle all of the common conductors together, try not to crossover too many conductors and plan to keep your splices in different areas of the box and not interfering with the installation of the devices. <S> One last thing, these boxes come in different depths, traditionally 1 1/2, 2 1/2 and 3 1/2. <S> Good luck. <A> But my question is what about the spliced short wires that originate and terminate in the box? <S> Doesn't mean they don't take up space (see RME's answer for advice on good use of space and starting with as big a box as will fit). <A> NEC 314.16.b.1 states conductors originating outside the box with conections or passing through are counted. <S> With this said if you get crazy pigtailing with long pieces you can be under the box fill calculation but not able to install the devices. <A> Pigtails don't count Quoting 314.16(B)(1) <S> (abridged): <S> A conductor, no part of which leaves the box, shall not be counted. <S> So, your pigtails don't count at all. <S> Only 1 ground counts <S> You are correct that only 1 of the equipment grounding conductors gets a fill allowance, this is as per 314.16(B)(5) <S> (abridged as 250.146(D) isn't relevant): <S> (5) Equipment Grounding Conductor Fill. <S> Where one or more equipment grounding conductors or equipment bonding jumpers enter a box, a single volume allowance in accordance with Table 314.16(8) shall be made based on the largest equipment grounding conductor or equipment bonding jumper present in the box. <S> But the travelers do count <S> However, since the travelers do leave the box, they do count against wire fill. <S> Get better nuts <S> You may wish to invest in some push-in type splicing connectors with 8 or 10 individual wire terminations in this case -- this will allow you to avoid fussing with daisy-chained wire nuts.
|
Wires originating and terminating inside the junction box are not included in the minimum fill calculation. Pig tails that connect a group of wires then connect to the switch or device are not added. So plan how you are going to splice and connect all of your conductors carefully. The biggest problem I have ever faced with multiple wire and devices was not meeting the box fill requirements but getting all that stuff into the box and mounted properly. If it's not too late you might try to purchase and install the 3 1/2" variety.
|
Removing masking/paper from skirting I've recently renovated my kitchen, which amongst a great many other things involved putting in new skirting boards, which needed painting. So, to protect our new timber floor we decided to slide A4 paper into the very small gap between the skirting and floor and then paint. This seemed to work well, except that now the paint has dried it appears that if I pull the a4 paper out, it may take the paint off the skirtings with it (it's white silk, dulux trade vinyl paint). Do any of you have any tips to remove this with minimal damage to the new paint? I've thought I could just very carefully go around the edge with a scalpel? Thanks in anticipation. <Q> Your inclination is correct. <S> A straight pull outward could chip the new paint. <S> Your second inclination is also correct. <S> Hold it horizontally, with a very slight downward angle at the join of the molding and paper. <S> If you have difficulty keeping the blade from rising up the molding, you could use a metal straightedge to protect it. <S> You may be able to cut it and remove the paper under the molding rather than through it, but if any is left behind, it should not show and will cause no issue. <A> I would use something like one of these utility knives to slit the edge of the paint to allow the paper to pull out. <S> Using a scalpel would not be recommended because there is much less control of the cutting device. <A> I would use the type of knife specified in the other answer(s) <S> but I'd advise doing a "test cut" in a less conspicuous area first. <S> My inclination is to hold the knife as vertical as possible and cut the paint and paper at the same time and thus cutting off the exposed paper while leaving the paper that is hidden underneath in place. <S> There's much less chance of damaging the painted surface this way, if I'm understanding the situation correctly.
|
You should carefully cut through the paint at the paper with a sharp utility knife (sometimes called a razor knife).
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.