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Reduce vibration by bench grinder I live on the 2nd story. I would like to reduce the vibration caused by the bench grinder. I bought the grinder at least 30 years ago. Everything is original equipment. I have some carpet padding under it, but a lot of vibration is still transmitted to my floor. Can you suggest some other ideas that will preferably cost the least. Thanks. <Q> Typically the only thing that will cause the vibration on grinder wheels like yours, are the wheels themselves being out of balance. <S> My suggestion would be to get two new wheels (grinding stones). <A> Can see why on that counter, try a rubber mat and add foam then your carpet pad. <S> Some felt on the grinder or rubber legs will help to,1/2 inch or 3/4 rubber legs on grinder will absorb a lot of vibration. <A> Adding a thick rubber mat and ensuring the unit is functioning properly are good things to plan to do, but one thing not mentioned, and it matters, is density. <S> That countertop/work area appears to be makeshift. <S> If you have a rigid structure (the heavier the better), to place your mat on, you will drastically reduce the vibrations to the floor. <S> You could build something if need be; but I suspect you will be better off with a solid table+mat.
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You could then also place insulators or rubber mats under the legs of the table.
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3 wire outlet.i know white goes with silver and black with copper. Does the order they go matter? There's six wires plus a ground. Wich one goes where?1234?♂️ <Q> Pigtail <S> You have 3 sets of wires in cables. <S> One comes from the main panel (or from a previous device in the circuit). <S> The others go to 2 other locations. <S> But they are all effectively the same. <S> As far as I can tell, the old setup (and what you are trying to do now) includes two wires on a single screw. <S> You can't do that. <S> Or alternatively, one set of wires in backstabs and the others on screws, which is legal but not recommended . <S> Instead, use pigtails: <S> Connect the pigtail to the top brass screw. <S> Connect all 3 whites together with a wire nut and an additional short length of white wire. <S> Connect the pigtail to the top silver screw. <S> If you don't have any extra wire around to use for pigtails, get some. <S> In any case, you must make sure the wire is the same size or larger than the existing wire. <S> That means using either 12 AWG (which will work for 15A or 20A circuits) or, if you are sure the circuit is a 15A circuit, 14 AWG. <A> Take all the whites wire nut <S> them add a pigtail put on silver screw. <S> Do the same with the blacks. <S> Stay away from back stabbing wires into outlets. <S> Teach said that way ground path to panel in case someone turns on breaker. <S> And I just do it that way. <S> and always do. <S> You need to get wire nut on grounds or a green one with a whole wire wire run out as pigtail or add one and ground to switch. <A> The black wires (hots) go on the side with the shorter slot. <S> The white wires (neutrals) go on the side with the longer slot. <A> The problem was another outlet since I made one spark the older ones gave up
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Connect all 3 blacks together with a wire nut and an additional short length of black wire. In addition to avoiding the backstabs, using pigtails will allow this receptacle to be removed (provided you cap the pigtails with wire nuts) and still have the other devices on the circuit function properly. It does not mater how you hook on really. You may want to get Romex, aka NM, aka cable. But I was taught at school to hook ground first then neutral then hots.
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Can I plug a washing machine requiring a 15A breaker into a 20A outlet? I am removing an old Asko washer that plugs into single outlet 20 amp box. The new Samsung washer requires "AC 120 V / 60 Hz / 15 AMP fuse or circuit breaker." Can I safely replace the 20 amp receptacle with a 15 amp configuration receptacle? <Q> All 120V 20 Amp receptacles are designed to accept 120V 15 <S> Amp and 120V 20 <S> Amp plugs. <S> Because of that, all 120V 15 Amp devices are normally designed to work properly in a 120V 15 Amp or 120V 20 Amp circuit. <S> This is true for appliances like a washing machine but even for something as small as a cell phone charger that actually uses < 1 Amp. <S> And you can't plug a 20 Amp device into a 15 Amp receptacle - it won't fit. <S> Bottom line: No problem. <A> Read the manual closely and see if it requires a dedicated circuit. <S> If it doesn't, you may plug right into the existing socket and go. <S> 15A appliances are allowed on 20A circuits unless their instructions say otherwise. <S> If it does, then the notice in the manual may need to be taken a bit more seriously. <S> On a dedicated circuit, you have precisely one socket (so you must get one of those odd "single sockets") and <S> since there is only one socket, the breaker and receptacle must agree (this is one time a 15A socket is not allowed on a 20A breaker). <S> The breaker would have to be changed out to match the socket, <S> I.e. both 15A. <S> The good news is, the wire in the wall can stay the same; it is surely 12 AWG which is larger than required, but larger wire is always allowed. <A> Just go with what you got and plug it and use it.
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Once you get past 20 Amp, the design of the sockets change so that you can't mix and match. Actually, you don't need to change anything.
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Would two 70 pint dehumidifiers work as well as one 140 pint unit? If so why are dehumidifiers above 70 pt so much more expensive? pros cons? Having two 70 pt in same room vs 1 140 pt? <Q> You crossed the line into industrial <S> I immediately noticed that a search for 70 pint dehumidifiers yielded the usual consumer tier listings... <S> Target Walmart CostCo Home Depot etc. <S> Different deal for 140pt. <S> It gave my local heating /cooling contractor, damage response companies, and industrial suppliers. <S> So you have made a qualitative leap. <S> From Yukon to Humvee. <S> This also affects what the customers are looking for. <S> The consumer product wins when you put it in your cart, what happens afterward hardly matters. <S> The industrial product wins <S> then it has lowest total cost of ownership. <S> the consumer unit is built no tougher than it needs to be to be parked in a corner for five years. <S> The industrial unit is designed to be dragged around to job sites every day. <S> the consumer unit is absolutely designed to work on lowest common denominator mains power, probably 120V at 12A max. <S> The industrial unit, all bets are off. <S> It's assumed a lot of equipment will be in use at that job site, and someone will be managing electrical loads. <S> it is also assumed that very dirty power will be on that job site, possibly from a generator, and so the unit will be built for that, and also will have no compunction about creating dirt on the lines. <S> as part of the "total life cycle" mentality, the industrial unit will be repairable for considerably less than the cost of a new one. <S> This maintenance may be required. <S> The consumer unit, into the trash it goes. <S> industrial units are often deployed with pusher fans to circulate humid air to the unit, so one unit can service a large area. <S> It is sized for that. <S> A consumer is unlikely to do such engineering or desire it. <S> the consumer unit factors for consumer sensibilities in style, efficiency and noise. <S> The industrial unit, nope. <S> These factors, rather than cost, should guide your decision. <S> Nothing wrong with arrays of cheap expendables; Google won the search business using numerous cheap beige box PCs while competitors used top tier DEC and Sun systems. <S> Google was forced to learn to adapt to constant hardware failure. <A> I would opt for 2 units for several reasons, but the reasons that the 140 pt dehumidifiers are more expensive is they usually require wheels and handles some have pumps that the smaller units don’t have. <S> Why would I opt for multiple units, a room is <S> a fixed area de humidifiers can only draw the moisture out of the air if the air is available, for example, having a large bonus room down the hall from our kitchen and dining area, if we only use a dehumidifier in the large bonus room the dining area will be very humid and the bedrooms even further away will be worse at night. <S> What we had was 2 smaller units 1 in the bonus room and one in the dining room since it had more space and was closer to the bedrooms, this worked quite well (a whole house system was not an option because the bonus room was on a different system than the rest of the home). <S> So for more effective moisture removal having smaller units at multiple locations is better. <S> The cost is reduced because the lighter units are easier to carry or move around, <S> as far as noise I find the fans that move the air are the majority of the noise on the units I have had with out air movement <S> the units won’t do much good so the larger units have much larger fans trying to move the air. <A> I would opt for the 2 dehumidifiers over the 1 just due to the noise that the single large unit produces. <S> My neighbor has one of those large dehumidifiers which is rated near the 140 pint/day you asked about <S> and it is extremely noisy, was very expensive, and takes up a lot of floor space. <S> While the water removing capacity would be about the same, those large units are usually very expensive to buy or replace. <S> " <S> My 2 cents"
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So depending on the layout of your home I would suggest smaller units, even with open layout having smaller units at opposite ends of the area will function better , be quieter and less expensive, the con for 2 units now you have 2 water buckets to empty.
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150 volts at outlet? I tested my outlets the other day and found 148-152 volts at all my outlets. I then tested all my outlets with a commercial electric ms112h outlet tester and all tested good but still 150 volts. I then shut off all breakers except 1 outlet circuit still 150 volts. I then tried a different outlet circuit still 150 volts. What would my next step be? I live in Oregon.I was using a Craftsman volt meter 82141 low end but seems like a good meter. <Q> A typical "Magic 8-Ball" tester like the one you are using will activate with a broad range of voltages. <S> The exact voltage will vary depending on the technology used, but I'd say it is a reasonable bet that anything between 70V and 250V (which would allow for some really messed up wiring without zapping the device or the user) will light up. <S> It would be very unusual, though not impossible, for a modern multimeter to be 20% off - reading 125V as 150V. As it turns out, the problem was the multimeter battery , but keeping this answer as it could be relevant to others in the future. <S> I would do the following: Test against a different voltage source. <S> Simplest would be mains voltage in a different building. <S> If that is not an option, try a battery powered device, though AC and DC could be "off" by different amounts. <S> Assuming the multimeter checks out OK on other stuff... <S> Determine whether you have "all high" or "half high, half low". <S> The easiest way to do this is to check a "240V with neutral" receptacle - e.g., for a dryer or oven. <S> You should measure nominally 240V hot-hot and 120V for both hot-neutral measurements. <S> If you get 300V hot-hot and 150V for both hot-neutral measurements then you are "all high" (which I would find very unusual). <S> If you have 240V hot-hot, 150V for one <S> hot-neutral and 90V <S> for the other hot-neutral <S> then you likely have a lost neutral . <S> If the end result is either "all high" or "lost neutral", CONTACT <S> YOUR ELECTRIC UTILITY IMMEDIATELY . <S> Either one would be a very dangerous situation. <S> "All high" will zap anything that is finely tuned for the standard 110V-120V or 220V-240V ranges. <S> But potentially even worse is a lost neutral - it will zap 1/2 your devices by being too high, 1/2 by being too low ("brownout" type problems) <S> and it can vary unpredictably as devices get turned on and off and pose a real human safety hazard . <A> BRHANS Nailed it, I had a bad battery in my multimeter. <S> Replaced the battery <S> and I have 119 volts. <S> Thats a fricking relief. <S> As far as balancing my panel I know nothing about it except I read that you should try and have equal amp breakers on either side to help keep it balanced. <S> You guys have been a great resource and I appreciate the advice! <A> This is a red alert! <S> You should call your power company and report a power outage (seriously). <S> The interesting thing about yours is that it doesn't move much. <S> Normally they move a LOT when you add and remove 120V loads. <S> That suggests it is affecting several houses and they are averaging. <S> Why aren't your neighbors up in arms? <S> Trust me - they don't know . <S> When our entire complex was stricken, It took me days to notice, and only when my sweetie apologized for having to put the toast down several times. <S> It took another day for me to get motivated to buy a voltmeter (my meters were elsewhere), at which point Pull mains, pound the alarm, power company is out in 30 minutes, done, happy toast. <S> Meanwhile other tenants had major appliances fry, so lucky us. <S> Anyway, you noticed, which makes you the hero. <S> But you checked all your circuits! <S> Meaning two. <S> Those have a 50/50 chance of being on the same pole, so giving the same reading. <S> My whole apartment was on the same pole, just found that out that day. <S> But you checked circuits on opposite sides! <S> Oh really . <S> Pushmatic is the only panel with L1 on the left and L2 on the right. <S> On all others, panel phasing is weird as heck , and you definitely do not understand it, unless you do. <S> So revisit that assumption.
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You can also try the output of a device that takes a broad range of inputs and produces one stable output - e.g., a laptop charger will typically take 90V - 250V and output 18V or some other very specific value. The multimeter is a more reliable device when it comes to specifics. The likeliest explanation is a lost neutral affecting several homes.
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Confusion over 220 and 230 volt outlets We have a 220 outlet for our A/C. We are shopping for a new unit and all I am see is 230 volts on the units. Will we have to rewire with a new outlet for a new A/C? <Q> Two issues: In the world of electrical power devices, there is a "Distribution Voltage" that your utility is providing to you, and there is a "Utilization Voltage" that your devices are designed to work on. <S> Distribution voltages are required to be +-5% maximum deviation, Utilization Voltages are supposed to be +-10% minimum acceptable. <S> Distribution voltage levels have changed over the years. <S> Here in the US (we don't know where you are), 220V was an old original standard going back to the 1920s. <S> Some time around the 1930s, as part of one of Roosevelt's "New Deal" programs called the "REA" (Rural Electrification Act), power lines were run out to farms and small communities all across the country. <S> So to avoid having the REA workers have to carry different products for different utility voltages, a standard was established that has become codified as the ANSI (American National Standards Institute) Distribution Voltages that power utilities are SUPPOSED to adhere to. <S> So for residential single phase distribution, the official voltage is actually 240VAC. <S> But because old habits die hard, and because SOME utilities never actually changed, "220V" is a common term still used all over the place. <S> It's actually somewhat rare for it to actually BE 220V. <S> Generically, it's all referred to as being the " nominal " voltage; 220, 230, 240 all being relatively close enough. <S> So partially because of this, the unofficial "Utilization Voltage" level has been 230V for decades, but the tolerance is +-10%, meaning the devices are supposed to be designed to accept anything from 207V to 253V. <S> In reality because some commercial and apartment complexes will use 208V 3 phase distribution, and you want to be able to accept 90% of 208V, the equipment manufacturers often actually make their products suitable for -15% from 230V (195V). <S> RARELY, something is either old, or made somewhere where they don't follow industry norms (or don't understand, or don't care) <S> and they made it <S> so that it STRICTLY requires a very narrow input voltage. <S> So bottom line you should check. <S> But if it is something like a dryer or an oven outlet, it should be perfectly fine. <A> This is because it started off as 220V, but was raised incrementally over time to deal with increasing demands on the grid; right now, it's said to be 240V at the service entrance, but 230V at loads to account for voltage drops in building wiring. <S> (There are several three-phase systems in the US, with various voltages involved, but they are beyond the scope of this answer.) <A> In Europe, there were various standards requiring either 220 V or 240 V in various places. <S> Britain even had 250 V in some areas. <S> This was all standardized to 230 V in the EU and surrounding areas (the European Network of Transmission System Operators) so they could be interconnected. <A> Just for interest, here in the UK the reverse happened. <S> Our national supply used to be nominally 240V, but at some point (perhaps for inter-operability with the EU) it was dropped to 230V. <S> In any case it's +/- <S> 10%, so 230V might be 253V worst case. <S> The safety specifications will include a much greater margin of error that the hardware must safely handle for short periods of time before fuses or circuit breakers can do their thing. <S> I was once in a building when a substation blew up, and for a brief period of time one of the phases dropped out and the other two went seriously over-voltage before darkness descended. <S> I was pleasantly surprised how little needed repair when the power came back on. <S> Old-fashioned electric motors will compensate for a lower voltage by drawing more current thereby maintaining an almost constant output power. <S> Modern a/c motors have complex electronic control of the actual output power (i.e. the amount of cooling or heat-pumped heating that is supplied), which is more efficient than just turning on and off at fixed thermostat points.
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220/230/240 are the same thing, really US single phase line-to-line mains voltage is interchangeably referred to as 220V, 230V, and 240V. They are not the same values, because it is EXPECTED that there will be a "voltage drop" that takes place between the utility transformer and the point at which the device connects due to the resistance of the wire between them. Not much actually changed, as the voltages are all within acceptable tolerances of each other.
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Loss of power when I remove item from the outlet I have this unusual electrical issue in our master bedroom. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this. We have this $3 LED night light in our bedroom and when we take it out, the power/lights go out. Other things also trip it up (It doesn't shut off the circuit breaker) When you put it back in, the power/lights come back on. Sort of reverse of what I would expect. Something is triggering the power to go off. I've reset the breaker, but still experiencing the issue. I believe it's a special AFCI breaker. Wondering if anyone has experienced this before. <Q> Defective receptacle. <S> Kill it with fire, before it kills you with fire. <S> And if it has backstab connections (wires jabbed in back holes that auto-grab them) <A> Chances are about 90% that you have a loose connection in the outlet. <A> This could happen if the bedroom wall switch controls both the switched outlet and the overhead light, and is also a digital switch without a neutral wire. <S> Try putting incandescent bulbs back in the overhead light, and if that fixes it (I'm assuming they're currently LED or fluorescent), then we have a better idea of what your problem is and how to help. <S> This problem sounds like the digital switch is only fed with hot and no neutral, so it needs a resistive load in line with it to switch on. <S> That's why the night light makes it work, it's allowing a return path for the digital switch to turn on. <S> Dimmer and motion switches are the worst for this, but any digital switch without a neutral would do the same. <A> The side screws may have come loose, possibly because the outlet was improperly mounted. <S> Once you've verified the power is off, unscrew the outlet from the box and make sure they haven't come loose. <S> If your outlet isn't screwed securely to the box (or there's a gap that prevents that) you're pushing (or pulling) solely against the wires now. <S> Over time, they can work loose. <S> You said you have an AFCI breaker. <S> If so, anytime the wires fail to make complete contact, it creates an arcing situation, which the AFCI is designed to prevent. <S> I would go to your local hardware store and look for a premium (sometimes called preferred) outlet. <S> Putting a new outlet in is not going to hurt. <S> Now, make sure the top and bottom of the outlet can make contact with the wall. <S> If they don't, add a box extender or outlet support to the part that is not supported. <S> If your outlet can't move, the likelihood it will work loose again is very low.
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If I had to guess, I'd say it is a "stab-in" wire connection on the back of the outlet (as opposed to the wire attaching with a screw), so that when you plug something into that outlet, it pushes the connector tighter onto the wire to complete the connection, but when you remove it, the wire gets loose and loses the connection. Because they cause this kind of mischief too. this is a good time to get rid of em.
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House water supply "mystery branch" upstream from shutoff valve I have a 1953 ranch with daylight basement. Pictured below is the point where (I believe) the water main enters the house horizontally (water meter is out in front lawn at ground level, aligned with this entrance). Upon entering, there is a T branch. Upwards pipe goes to a shutoff valve, while the downward branch disappears into the floor and is upstream of the shutoff. I can't figure out why this was done this way. It's possible I have it reversed and that supply comes out of the floor and then goes back out of the house at the T, again before the shut off valve. I am trying to track down the many possible causes of a damp floor in this area and would like to understand why this was done this way before going further. Thanks in advance! UPDATE: I have called a plumber (I don't want to DIY myself into a bigger mess on this particular project) and will update once I get an answer. <Q> And the answer is.... <S> water line comes in horizontally. <S> BUT, a shocking discovery made by my plumber while sorting this out. <S> Somebody else in the past had the same idea as me and started to remove the downpipe, then abandoned the effort. <S> It was not easily viewable from the front. <S> I put a feeler gauge into the cut slot and it appears to be DEEPER than the pipe wall thickness. <S> Basically, it's just rust and gunk that has kept the water from exploding out of that slot. <S> I've encountered my fair share of home improvement crime scenes over the years, but this one is right up there... <S> a glob of rust away from disaster. <A> Does the property have any underground irrigation system -- sprinklers for a lawn, for instance? <S> If so, is that system fed with potable water? <S> It might be that the supply from the meter rises from the floor and the branch going through the wall supplies the irrigation system. <S> One would hope for a shutoff valve in that branch. <S> The only sign visible on the surface of the ground might be a 3 or 4 inch diameter pipe going straight down, hopefully with a lid to keep out debris. <A> You have a main shut off . <S> And tee fitting after that . <S> Steel pipe is old or no good. <S> and you may have a leak. <S> Because in slab. <S> disconnect run new pipes over head to house done.
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They made a horizontal cut into the pipe below the T, from behind. Since no valve is visible on the branch going through the wall, maybe there's also a stop-and-waste valve buried nearby outdoors.
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Device to switch between two light with a single wall switch first of all, sorry about to be asking that silly and newby question, I know, it is really lame. Is there a simple device, that I can build simply, or bought, that can switch between two lights ? I had a lamp, that has two many lamps, (7, six in a circle, and one central), all parallel, all 220v. Too much light often unused. So I thought to split in two circuits, one with the central lamp, another with the six ones. I know I could put a commutator after the wall switch, but I do not have place, neither wires, neither looks good. So I would like that when I turn on (on the wall), either one or six lamps goes ON, as I turn off, all goes OFF, and as I turn ON again, the opposite lamps go ON. I can imagine, with a small circuit to remember the state, a relay, a battery, a power supply 220V to 5V, etc... But maybe there is some short of magic relay that each time it gets 220V, it switch output ? Again, sorry if this is a lame question ;-) <Q> But I think a far simpler solution - or at least far more common in terms of inexpensive parts is to use two switches . <S> The first switch would function as On/Off. <S> The second switch would function as A/B. The second switch would be (in US terminology) a 3-way switch, but instead of using it as a 3-way switch, which typically lets you use 2 separate switches to turn a single light On/Off from either location, you would use it to switch two different lights (or groups of lights). <S> In addition, you can get two switches in one box, like this : You wire the first 3-way as a single switch with one output ("traveler") going to the second switch and <S> the second output not connected at all. <S> You wire the second 3-way switch so that one output goes to one light ("A") and the other output goes to the other light ("B"). <S> Whenever you turn the first switch on, the light status (A or B) will be the same as it was the last time you used it. <S> No batteries. <S> No relays. <S> No "smart" switches. <S> Just a pair of ordinary switches. <A> Your question is not lame at all. <S> Actually it can lead to a pretty cool project. <S> I'm not sure whether your goal is simply to solve a lighting problem or to design something fancy you could be proud of. <S> If it's the former, just adding more wiring and an extra switch on the wall is probably your best bet. <S> If it's the latter than your idea of using "a small circuit to remember the state, a relay, a battery, a power supply 220V to 5V, etc." can lead you to the right direction. <S> Essentially you need some sort of state machine with at least two different states: powering the lights in the circle, or powering the central light. <S> One problem here is that when the wall switch goes off you loose power completely, what makes it hard for your gadget to remember the last state when power comes back. <S> Another simpler idea is having some capacitance in your gadget that is good enough to remember the last state for just a few seconds. <S> So if you turn the switch on after a long period of time, it would always go to the same state, but if after that you flip the switch off and on again, it would go to the other state. <S> It sounds like a good compromise to me. <S> Another problem is that it's tricky to implement state machines with such high voltages (220V AC). <S> Maybe there is a creative way of doing it with thyristors... <S> The option may be to build a small 5V DC supply as you suggested and then implement your circuit with logic gates and flip flops or even using a micro controller. <S> Then you would need relays to actually turn the 220V lights on. <S> You could use solid-state relays or mechanical ones. <S> I may have provided more questions than answers... <S> I hope I have helped somehow. <S> Good luck in your project! <A> There are numerous bi-stable mechanical devices, including pull switches, that require no permanent power input to maintain them in either state, just a push (or pull) to swap their state. <S> Maybe you could devise a setup whereby such a switch receives a momentary pull from a solenoid as the power is switched on, then it becomes de-energised. <S> What you don't want, if it can be avoided, is a solenoid or relay permanently drawing power (and getting hot) <S> all the while the lamp is on.
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There probably is a switch out there that can do it - with three states - Off, A, B. Wire A to one light, B to the other lights. The solution could be to use a battery or supercap inside your gadget or to add a small capacitor in parallel to your wall switch so would allow you to harvest a small amount of power even when the switch is off.
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What kind of siding and install type is this? The siding looks like its not one flat piece but made of multiple flat layers? There are different siding installment methods. What does this one look like? If I was going to search home depot for a similar arrangement/type of siding, what would I look for? <Q> Normally the boards are milled so that the faces fit close together, so it could be called "lap and gap" for clarity. <S> I've no idea if that's a regional term or not. <S> If it had actually been made of two layers it would be board and batten, which may offer you some visually similar style products in your search. <S> Traditionally though the batts are much smaller than the boards, and the siding is installed vertically to shed water. <A> I would call that "shiplap" (but some will refer to it as tongue & groove), but names may differ based on location. <S> The idea of the joint is so that water does not stay on the joint between the two planks, but falls away. <A> We have that on our house and around here it is called lap and gap. <S> I have replaced some rotted courses and had to go to a lumberyard to get what I wanted. <S> I have examined this type of siding in detail. <S> cedar lap and gap siding Ship lap siding is installed without gaps, but there will be grooves. <S> Lap and gap has a much longer lap on one end resulting in a distinctive wide horizontal gap. <S> Some (lap and gap) siding can be installed with the rough side out to give lap and gap, but if installed with the smooth side out the result is no gap outside giving the effect of ship lap. <S> However, there will be an internal gap. <S> I would think that ship lap would have only a very narrow gap or no gap, just a groove. <S> Look at the design of the planks in the link.
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Your siding is shiplap, you can see that the grain pattern continues from the face of the board onto the lapped edge.
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Would this type of backsplash tile not require grout? I’m looking at this particular backsplash tile which is unusual in that there’s really no gaps between pieces: https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Alaska-Gray-Splitface-12-in-x-12-in-x-10mm-Marble-Mesh-Mounted-Mosaic-Tile-ALGRY-SFIL10MM/206741880 I see no way that grout could be squeezed in there. Will it simply be installed ungrouted? <Q> I have installed similar 15-20 times. <S> Impossible. <S> Grout only effective if it covers, not if it is here and there. <S> So number 1 you can't grout this type of tile. <S> They simply don't have big enough gaps. <S> Even if you tried you would either miss coverage or by putting too much in you will distort the layout of some of the tiles. <S> Number 2 <S> ... I really disagree with a lot of the comments. <S> A kitchen is not a shower. <S> Unless you are in a commercial kitchen, your personal home kitchen is not really a "wet zone". <S> Who cares if something spills on it? <S> You wipe it up. <S> Oh no the magic tomato soup fairies are going to get underneath the tile and destroy it. <S> It is absurd. <S> If anything it may in fact be easier to clean this tile. <S> Tile does not stain or discolor from a spill easy if at all... <S> what does stain and discolor? <S> Yes grout. <A> Water is good at finding its way into gaps and if you check the Q & A some other users point out it should be grouted, and they did. <A> I once installed a very similar, if not this exact one. <S> It came with a special sealer that filled the gaps and gave the tiles a nice wet look. <S> What do the instructions say? <S> It took something like 10 coats before getting the correct look, evenly, all over the tiles. <S> And yes, as the comment say, this is for a fireplace, not a kitchen.
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No you don't grout these period.
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Is it really a good idea to buy an old house which needs some rework? Long ago I read somewhere that it is best to buy houses that need some amount of rework rather than those in tip-top condition. The reasons given were: There is less competition from other buyers so can be be bought more easily Less money required from mortgage lender which is the loan on interest Once such a home has been bought, a person would spend money on it to bring it into good condition (which is subjective), possibly over number of few years. Usually this would (atleast) involve cleaning up the place, mowing the gardens, new paint, new wallpaper and new carpet at the very least. In other words, find a run down house and then make it beautiful. Can get house for cheaper and then work to renovate it gradually. Now my question is simple. Since such houses are going to be old and possibly not well maintained for some time, what are the main risks in buying such houses and what should one look out for so we don't end up with a rather expensive mistake and regret it? <Q> Hire a reputable house inspector to thoroughly examine it. <S> It won't be 100% reliable, but the report will give you a good idea of what is wrong and what is still okay with the house. <S> For instance you might see things like: <S> You'll need to replace the furnace within a year or two. <S> The roof shingles <S> /tiles should be good for another 10 years. <S> The foundation has recently cracked and part of the structure is sagging. <S> The first one means you know you'll need to spend some money soon, so consider that amount as part of the purchase price of the house. <S> The second one means you'll have a big expense down the line, so spread that amount out over time. <S> The third means that you are going to have leaks, with dampness or flooding, and that the building itself might no longer be structurally sound. <S> Repairing this might end up being more expensive than tearing it down and rebuilding. <S> If there are problems of that last type, stay away. <S> If all the problems found are of the first and second type, with predictable cost, and if all the obvious problems you can see yourself are cosmetic, then if you still think it's worth the adjusted total price, go for it. <S> There will of course be other problems with severity between these, and there will be seemingly small problems that turn out to be cans of worms, so you'll have to use your own judgement. <S> There will always be risk. <S> Nothing is certain. <S> It also makes a huge difference whether you are going to do the repairs yourself or hire someone. <S> You can buy a lot of pipes and fittings for a few hundred pounds, but hiring a plumbing company to do the upgrades could cost you tens of thousands. <A> I think worst option is buying buildings made between 50s and 90s of XX century: those are leacky and usually ment to last less than a century. <S> Building from XIX and first XX cent. <S> are ok: big walls quite well insulated <S> but you'll only have to pay attention to toxic materials: <S> lead pipes (usually drain), asbestos tiling and also you should re-do windows and doors and a good thing is full electric rewire. <S> Older buildings are good, but you'll have issues with the department of cultural heritage when trying even minimal modifications (ex: you should keep old leaky windows just because are 'historic') <A> Keep in mind, that the only way this really works is if you invest your time and effort into fixing it up. <S> Paying other people to fix it up negates almost all of the increase in equity. <S> The things you list are things that people commonly want to change anyway, so that is not going to really help you get a better deal in my opinion. <S> Storytime: I bought my first house at 9% under ask, but I knew it was in rough shape; 5 months later and the drain, waste, vent system and electrical system were replaced, I had gutted three rooms and replaced the rotten and/or termite ate wood, refloored (down to the joists), insulated, drywall, painted and finished. <S> I added a bathroom and completely redid the kitchen and existing bathroom. <S> My labor and time were investments into the house; so long as you are of the same mind, you’ll do fine.
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It depends entirely on the way in which the house is run down.
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Grandfather old code during renovations? During renovations of a residential house when does new code apply or can grandfather the old code in. I.e kitchen has awkward layout and not that practical to change. Context: Kitchen landing spacings on each side of oven <Q> It depends on the jurisdiction, my state I can move an outlet up to 6’ without having to update to current code. <S> Even with the kitchen walls open <S> I don’t have to update 3 wire range receptacles unless the panel is on a common wall with the range on that wall. <S> we need to under stand that updating surface finish (no structural changes) this is not a “remodel” but is redecorating, permits are not usually required for redecorating but they usually are for remodeling. <S> So it depends on the jurisdiction, new cabinets many call remodeling <S> but it is truly redecorating. <A> However, if you modify any component in any way it will need to be inspected and upgrade per current code. <A> I had one inspector in my town saying I needed to meet electrical regulations in current if I opened a wall and another said only if I changed the electrical via permit. <S> I have had towns tell me I must meet NEC 2012 for old work and NEC 2015 for new work. <S> You could find differences in construction ratings for hurricane or earthquake zones. <S> So what I am saying is if you want to do it 100% by the book and have everything permitted and verified the first step <S> is to assess your situation correctly (or pay someone to) and then to talk with your local permits department. <S> Call the clerk and ask when the inspectors have office times and then go down in person and talk to them (don't talk to inspectors over the phone about something like this). <S> If you can see if inspector will stop by your house - often you can get free advice from a nice inspector that can save you hundreds/thousands. <S> But based on your question you are looking at bringing up the entire kitchen to electrical code. <S> Note: <S> You have a kitchen that is already there. <S> You can tear it out yourself. <S> You can hire an electrician to rewire stove/fridge, he can make everything code and safer, and so on. <S> You can do most of the other work yourself which is installing cabinets, minor plumbing, painting, maybe tiling, maybe flooring... <S> Just saying if you hire an electrician and that part is done right a basic kitchen remodel isn't the first thing I would have permitted if I were doing everything else myself. <S> (groans coming but being honest) <A> According to CEI you could keep 'old code compliance' as long as you don't modify (at all) <S> the wiring, it's enough to relocate a socket <S> and you'll have to comply with new regulation for the whole room: at least you need to get a DiCo for the modified room and a DiRi for the old section of your system.
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By rule of thumb here in GA whatever is existing it won't need to be to current code. Also if you have an older house you could possibly have asbestos in the flooring (and possibly walls). Depending on the amount of other work you are doing this could be costly (opening all the walls) or if you aren't planning on that it could be extremely costly.
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How damaging can a 3 meter (10 feet) long drain hose be for the washing machine pump and microorganism growth? I have two washing machines and they are placed one next to each other (this is the only way I can position them due to the space). The first one is connected to the drain pipe under the sink normally with it's default hose and it's length (which I think is 1.5 meters or 5 feet), but the other one is placed a bit further so I needed an extension besides the default integrated hose (which like I mentioned is I think 1.5 meters), the smallest drain hose I found was yet another 1.5 meter one, so when connected it totals a bit more than 3 meters long hose (including the connecting adapter) and I was wondering how bad can this be for the washing machine, or more specifically for its pump or microorganism growth inside. Is there anything I need to take care for or any other tips besides just finding a less lengthy hose? For a shorter hose, I think it can be found in a 1 meter variant (3.3 feet), but for that I will need to order that and maybe wait for a month to come. Edit: Forgot to mention that due to the length, the hose curves and this is how it all looks: <Q> Length doesn't matter, going uphill matters Waste water from anything in your house - sinks, washing machines <S> , dishwashers - doesn't just go 5 or 10 feet. <S> It goes hundreds, typically thousands of feet before it gets to any treatment facility. <S> (OK, if you have a septic tank then the distance is much shorter, but even then, typically a lot more than 10 feet). <S> The main thing is to remember what an HVAC guy once told me (he didn't think highly of "regular" plumbers): <S> Plumbers just have to know three things: <S> Hot on the left Cold on the right ! <S> @$%& runs downhill <S> If your washing machine had to pump uphill <S> - e.g., if it was in the basement and the only available drain was on the floor above the basement - then the distance would matter as the pump would need enough power to pump up to the drain. <S> In normal installation, the hose only goes up a couple of feet - e.g., to the top of the washing machine - and it is, quite literally, all downhill from there . <S> I also doubt that, under typical circumstances, a drain hose would be a breeding ground for microorganisms. <S> The exception would be if there is any standing water , which would likely be the case only if there is a loop or flat area of the hose because it is way too long. <S> If a hose is too long in a practical way - e.g., ends up looped in some fashion, then cut it. <S> If the hose is rubber that should be easy. <S> If it is some other material it still should be possible to cut it and clamp the end in place. <A> I have had to cope with similar issues. <S> The solution that worked for us was to install the p-trap or anti-smell traps (2" diameter) designed for washing machines, 2 of them onto a 2" drain pipe with a suitable slope. <S> Then both machines had their own waste pipes into one of the p-traps and even if both emptied at the same time there was never an issue of overflow. <S> link to an image just to show the type of trap <S> I describe <A> A frequent installation pattern is to have a washing machine discharge into a stationary tub. <S> Discharge hoses came with a hook moulded into the end. <S> Sink rim was typically 3 feet off the floor. <S> Stagnant dirty water will foster some bacterial growth. <S> If the washing machine is doing it's job, then the last shot of water through there should be pretty clean rinse water. <S> Not much food for the bacteria. <S> * Do check your splice between the two hoses. <S> If that comes undone, you will get an entire wash cycle of water on the floor. <S> *
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If you are using the washing machine on anything like a regular basis (> 1/week) it shouldn't be any worse than the P-trap underneath any sink.
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Roofing choice for outdoor sandbox cover I built an outdoor sandbox for the kids that's about 4' x 5' but haven't had the time to put a real roof on it yet. To keep the rain (and the poo of roaming cats) out, we have thus far been using a piece of plastic sheeting held down with a bunch of bricks on the edges, but we have to go out and empty a giant puddle of water from the middle of it after each rainstorm so obviously that's a temporary solution. I would like to build an extremely simple and inexpensive lid/roof for the box that will last at least a few years. Shingles seem like overkill, but all of the ideas online that don't use shingles seem like they're going to fail as soon as they get wet (ie this guy who just painted an OSB sheet). What would be a good material for roofing? Can I just tar some plywood? Would painting OSB actually work long-term? <Q> Purchase a 4'x8' sheet of southern yellow pine (SYP) plywood that's been pressure treated for ground contact applications. <S> Typically that's an ACQ treatment at 0.40 or 0.60 pounds per cubic foot, and SYP because that species of wood accepts and retains treatment extremely well. <S> "Ground contact" is the highest level of treatment, and I chose it over the lesser "above ground" treatment because it is directly exposed to the elements, and the additional cost should be negligible for just 1 sheet. <S> You wouldn't even have to paint it, but if you do, use a paint designed/intended for use on treated decks. <S> The only thing I'd be concerned about is a finding a way to prevent the sheet of plywood from flying away during storms and periods of high wind gusts. <S> Depending on the thickness you purchase, it will begin to warp as the main failure mode, not decay or rot. <S> To prevent that you may want to build a frame for it by screwing treated SYP 2x4s on the bottom around the perimeter, and maybe one or two running down the middle of it. <S> Make sure the screws are short enough so they don't stick through the other side and poke little fingers when removing the sheet to play. <A> OSB is not rated for outdoor use, so I wouldn't even use it under proper roofing materials, since you will get condensation underneath. <S> But since you'll have a bit of extra plywood, I would propose to make it a slight "peaked roof", maybe 1 in 12, with the center cross brace running under the peak. <S> That will keep water from pooling in the middle of it and making it soak in, weaken the plywood, sag, rinse wash repeat. <S> If you are hauling the plywood in a small car, that also means you can have it pre-cut to size, giving three <3'x4' sections, so it will fit in your car. <S> To be sure, let the plywood get plenty good and dried out, and prime it with original Kilz and then topcoat it with any old thing that isn't epoxy. <S> (epoxy dislikes sunlight). <S> Monitor it, and if topside conditions are still rough on the plywood, get rubber roofing material and glue it in the middle so it doesn't flap. <S> That performs well on near-flat roofs. <A> At Walmart they sell a sand box cheaper than you can build on. <S> Comes with cover and stays on in wind. <S> Easy to keep clean. <S> Been down this road and kids let there kids play in it now. <S> Sand box turtle . <S> Will even fit into old frame as extra sand catcher. <S> If out of wood and screws to hold down is a pain. <S> My kids could remove and cover box.
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I like Dotes' Southern Yellow Pine idea and framing it for weight including the center cross brace.
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Can you attach more than one wire in a given hole on a bus in an electrical panel? Is it permissible to attach more than one neutral or ground wire to any terminal screw on the service panel bus? A home inspector says this is not allowed. THAT DOESN'T SEEM RIGHT, because all of these wires are being bonded to earth ground - they are all the same point, electrically. <Q> The issue isn’t about mixing ground and neutral on a single bus in the main panel. <S> That is allowed although it’s preferred to have separate neutral and ground busses, both bonded to the chassis and grounded. <S> The issue is that most panel busses aren’t rated to have more than one wire per termination point. <S> Some are but most aren’t. <S> The issue, other than just the question of certification, is that they may just not be designed to hold two wires securely or to keep a tight connection over time. <S> If you can post a photo of your panel, or at least give the brand and model, someone here should be able to give you a specific answer. <A> This pivots on NEC 110.3(b): <S> If the labeling/instructions say you can do it, then you can do it. <S> For instance my Pushmatic panels have wire capture slots on both sides of each screw on the N-G bar, so it's no trouble at all. <S> My CH panels do not have this. <S> If your bars are full, the best course is to add ground bar(s) as needed, and move grounds off the neutral bar to the new ground bar(s). <S> In a perfect world, you have 100% separation of neutrals and grounds, and a neutral-ground bond that is a fat wire positioned <S> so you can get a clamp ammeter around it. <S> (It should read 0A). <A> On Square D panels, back then and into now (there have been few changes to anything), you have always been able to put 2 x #14 or #12 on each hole in the ground / neutral bars, regardless of if it is G or N. <S> But as previously stated, you must follow the mfr instructions. <S> There should be (would have been) a paper label on the inside of the door that would describe this. <S> If that is missing, you are going to be hard pressed to find corroborating information from Square D as they are now owned by a French company that couldn't care less about old stuff, so getting someone to look up old data is all but impossible. <S> However if that original label is there, it should be all you need. <S> Remember, the cover was undoubtedly off when the inspector looked, but it's not his job to root around to find your cover, it's your job to point it out to him. <S> Side issue: <S> Whether or not your Gs and Ns are mixed has only to do with whether or not this is your main service panel, i.e. the first place where your utility connections land. <S> mix them in any sub-panels.
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You CAN mix your grounds and neutrals in the service panel, you CANNOT You must use equipment according to its labeling and instructions .
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I hit a pipe with a mower and now it won't turn I was mowing the other day and there was a pipe sticking out of the ground. The pipe wasn't carrying any services, just a piece of metal sticking out of the ground (I've now removed it). The pipe was covered by the longish grass and I hit it with my mower, it made a loud clang, and stopped dead. Now the blades on the mower are very hard/stiff to turn by hand. Using the pull starter is completely impossible, the rope would break if I pulled it any harder. I'm thinking the drive shaft may have disconnected with the engine, but I don't really know a lot about small engines. Some more information. It's a Husqvarna mower, one year old with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The engine is still under warranty, but the closest authorized repair place is two hours from where I live. I'm wondering if someone has come across this situation before and would know if it's an easy fix or is the mower a write-off. EDIT: Thank you everyone for the answers and suggestions. Due to the amount of warnings below, I'll take it to a repair place. If some more information comes in I'll post it up here. The reason I was thinking about fixing it myself was the support person from Briggs & Stratton gave me a suggestion to buy this Repair Manual EDIT 2:I didn't take it to a repair place and trying myself. So starting to take it apart (spark plug is out) and get the top cover off. The main wheel that turns with the blades can rotate 2 full turn freely and then for the next 1/4 turn it is very tight, then repeats. EDIT 3:Success! After spinning the wheel and blades a bit more everything seemed to loosen up and now it's working! Turns over with one easy pull of the rope. EDIT 3.5:Because if all the interest and concern over the pipe, see photo. It was well inside my property line and I assume it was once used to hold a flag or sign. <Q> This sounds like that impact has bent the crankshaft, which means that the engine will either need replacing or to be rebuilt. <S> You need to decide whether a 2 hour drive to get a quote with the waiting for repairs to be completed <S> is worth it or just to buy a new one.... <A> Check for a sheared flywheel key. <S> It connects the flywheel to the crank shaft and it's designed to break with less force than it would take to cause permanent damage to the engine. <S> Sometimes they will break partially through causing the engine timing to be way off. <S> It would cause symptoms similar to what you're describing. <S> Once you get it running again be sure to check the blade for damage. <A> One thing you can do is to flip the mower over and make sure that the blade hasn't been bent so much as to be contacting the mower deck. <S> They'll be able to unbend a bent blade for you, or at least sell you a replacement. <A> This exact thing happened to me last year (Husqvarna mower, long grass, hit a pipe, clang, mower stopped, cord stuck) and it was a bent blade. <S> Hammered it back <S> and it was OK, using the mower so far this year with no issues. <A> I agree with others' comments about electric mowers. <S> (not battery; with a cord). <S> I had one for 15 years, and only ran over the cord twice. <S> (not the end of the world, you buy a new cord, and try to be careful). <S> As far as this one goes: carefully heed the advice about pulling the spark-plug wire! <S> Then see if you can turn the blade in a complete 360 degree rotation without interference. <S> If there's nothing wrong with the blade (that you can see), and if the shaft-key looks good (you might remove the blade by unbolting it, you'll probably need a large pipe-wrench), and ensure that the shaft keyway isn't rounded out. <S> (if so, the blade would spin independently of the shaft). <S> If the shaft can not be rotated 360 degrees, then you probably bent or broke the connecting rod, and the engine is destroyed. <S> But I don't think that's likely to have happened in this case. <S> (it could happen though). <S> Many newer motors have an aluminum blade, and if the blade is damaged, you'll need to buy a whole new blade. <S> Repairing an aluminum blade usually doesn't work very well. <S> Also, mulching mower blades have a very specific bend, and are very difficult to sharpen, and repair from being bent or hitting a hard object. <S> I think: most likely, you have damaged the blade.
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It could be dangerous mowing with a bent or otherwise damaged blade. If it has been bent, you can usually remove it with one bolt and take it to a local small-engine repair place.
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How to cut copper pipes quickly (and cleanly) Are there tools for cutting copper pipes that work faster than manual tube cutters like this one ? I have the latter type of cutter, and it works fine, but it takes a fair amount of time and effort to cut a pipe with it. I'm assuming there must be tools that work faster but I'm not sure what I'd have to search for because I don't know what they are called. I know I could always use a reciprocating saw for a fast cut, but I'm looking for something that would be both fast and cut the pipe cleanly. <Q> You'd still have to clean up the cuts to eliminate burrs. <S> You could also use a circular saw, but you'd want to take care to keep your cuts square. <S> Most plumbers don't want to lug that stuff around the jobsite, though. <S> (Even compact cordless circular saws are not something that fits in a tool belt). <S> Once you get skilled with a tubing cutter it's a matter of about 10 seconds, even with 3/4" or larger pipe. <S> You aren't going to reduce that enough with power tools to net much time savings. <A> The pipe cutter in your illustration is small, and intended for cutting pipes in tight locations. <S> Notice that the ad is labelled "close quarters". <S> If you are using it for cutting new pipe, perhaps that's why you find it takes "time and effort". <S> Normal pipe cutters are much larger and provide much better leverage and control: <A> If you want a specialty tool, they have cordless pipe cutters. <S> They work a lot like the manual type, but are driven with an electric motor. <S> Milwaukee M12 tubing cutter <S> There are several brands and sold at home stores and online, the above is just one common example. <S> If you're cutting a lot of pipe, they can be a big time saver. <S> They make clean cuts and are very portable.
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A compact miter saw with an appropriate blade would make quick work of things.
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Breaker sometimes trips when Microwave turned on Is there a power strip circuit breaker I can use to stop having to go to the basement when the microwave sometimes trips the circuit breaker? <Q> No a power strip will likely not help. <S> If your electrical circuit is properly installed, undamaged and being properly used then it should not trip. <S> Even just a $5 breaker being repeatedly reset could damage the panel, resulting in a $1000 repair. <S> Residential "thermal-magnetic" breakers don't trip instantly at 20.1 amps. <S> They are designed to trip under conditions that damage wiring, on an inverse time curve for thermal overload conditions, low overcurrents such as 1.5x the rating should trip between 90 and 300 seconds, 5x the rating should trip in 4 to 10 seconds, and a high magnetic inrush or short circuit of 10x or more they trip instantly. <S> For instance if you have a 1200 watt power hungry coffee maker and a 1800 watt microwave (actual ratings of my appliances) on the same circuit then you have 3000 watts on a 2400 watt circuit. <S> (Code requires kitchen circuits be 20A, 20A x 120V <S> = 2400 watts.) <S> That 125% overload should hold for at least 5 minutes, and if it never trips it would still be within NEMA specs. <S> Those numbers really create a situation that a microwave tripping a breaker means some real circuit evaluation is necessary. <S> Your microwave is faulty and drawing enormous overloads, a circuit breaker is failing, you have a loose connection that could cause arcing that could start a fire, or your combination of loads is greatly overloading your wires and repeated resetting and resuming abuse will create expensive repairs. <A> The breaker is safety device <S> so you don't burn down the house. <S> First I would figure out what else is on the circuit as it may be overload and if it is only the microwave <S> then there is something wrong with the microwave if your wiring is up to par. <S> In the US most wiring is either 12-2 or 14-2 in newer homes and can easily carry a 1200 watt load. <S> Take incoming voltage: 120 voltsBreaker AMP rating: 15 amps 120 x 15 <S> = 1,800 <S> Watts <S> So a basic circuit can carry safely 1,800 watts, look on your appliances that are connected to this circuit and they should be less than 1,800. <S> There are other factors (wire length,material,etc) but keep it simple. <S> 2nd <S> - If the circuit blows and there is less than the 1,800 watts it may be a bad breaker, replace. <A> A microwave will use more than it's rated power, because nothing is 100% efficient, and some microwaves are less efficient than you might think. <S> (The actual power usage should be on a sticker somewhere around the microwave door frame.) <S> Also, a microwave will use even more power than that when first turning on, because it takes extra energy to start things up. <S> (This is called the inrush current.) <S> Combined, this means that most microwaves really need a 20 amp circuit with no other high-current devices, and almost all of them will have a tendency to trip 15 amp breakers. <S> So, how big is your breaker?
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If you do get a power strip and it does trip before the electrical panel circuit breaker then it would likely be because the trip time-curve of the power strip is not designed to accommodate the power curve of the microwave, and you won't be fixing the problem, just delaying the inevitable, and possibly damaging the electronics of the microwave due to a disorganized power shutdown.
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How to cheaply fix crooked looking tile? Is there any way of making the tiles on the back wall look straight? <Q> Trim baby, trim... <S> You will need some custom angled molding made to follow the straight lines of the tile joints, but "absorb" the crookedness of the wall in its internal angles. <S> It will not be an easy fix though, it will take a very skilled millworker / cabinetmaker. <A> Failing that, get the roof/wall skimmed down to a level line. <A> Dazzle camouflage <S> Either re-tile, or re-paint, with some sort of irregular pattern that makes it almost impossible to see the uneven lines. <S> This will require giving the bathroom "character", and many buyers are not great fans of "character", but it is the most expedient way to mask the error. <S> And it's hardly new in architecture; things like popcorn ceilings or knockdown drywall are designed to hide flaws in drywalling. <A> You mentioned in a reply above that you're currently out of budget, which makes a "total rework" kind of fix out of scope. <S> What about some "distraction" type of fix? <S> Get a printed peel-and-stick wallpaper with an irregular pattern that distracts from the asymmetry and will be fine for now (for real, or ironically) <S> until in a few years you can't stand it any more but have the $ for a more substantial fix. <S> Edit: You could apply this to the part above the tile, but also you could apply this to the tile. <S> Whatever "distracts" more and works well with the pattern you choose...
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If you were willing to replace the top course of tiles, you could swap in a mosaic (either regular or irregular), and the skew would be effectively hidden.
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Ensure that a closed door is a completely locked door? I live with a person with lock anxiety, and I'm looking for a DIY solution. I already have an alarm system that beeps if a certain door is closed, but how can I also make sure it's completely locked? The key word is "completely". The door already has a deadlatch and a dummy knob on the outside, so it already locks people out. However, there's a little knob that locks the inner handle in place and prevents jimmying. Since it doesn't automatically engage, it elicits frequent checking and rechecking. I've considered some possible solutions: Just remove the little knob to take away the uncertainty. That comes close, but I would prefer to be able to state that the door has been made more secure in case they ask for details. Use an electronic deadbolt with timer functionality. This seems needlessly complex and expensive, and requires batteries. Screw on a gate latch or similar. These are too flimsy and only meant for holding a gate closed, not to lock a door. To clarify: making sure the door is closed is a non-problem due to the alarm. Door closers and spring hinges don't matter. The door also does not need to allow slamming it shut: it's fine if you have to push/press/hold/twist something to close it. Is there such a thing as regular deadbolt but that engages automatically via a spring for example? So that you have to twist it back to close the door, but when the door is closed, it's 100% engaged? <Q> Talk to a competent lock dealer and ask about a storeroom lock-set . <S> This is intended for secure office store-rooms, where there would never be a reason to leave the door unlocked. <S> From the inside, the handle always allows egress. <S> From the outside, the door cannot be opened without a key, period. <S> There is not push or twist button to make the door stay unlocked. <A> It requires much more than batteries, but otherwise I think an electronic magnetic lock would fit your needs and relieve your anxiety. <S> As long as there is power, it will be locked when closed. <S> A push to egress button needs to be installed nearby so that you can exit when there is power (it cuts the power to the magnet), and without power it fails safely unlocked. <S> You typically add battery backups if you need it to stay locked with an extended power outage. <S> They're also pick proof, so you'd have nothing to worry about there. <S> Here is an example of a kit: Assa Abloy Model LNB-6 <A> closed sensor may suffice. <S> You just have to demonstrate to the people concerned that it works, and it successfully alerts all people if the door is not locked. <S> Basically, attach the free magnet part to the deadbolt handle, or add a lever-arm to the deadbold latch handle, then strategically place the wired sensor on the door itself (build it up with an attractive wooden block for example), and postion it such that; when locked the sensor is closed, and range of motion is not impeded when moving it to the unlock position. <S> You may find you'll want to choose alternative deadbolts to do it, but as long as the lock has a moving assembly you should be able to rig something up to "kill both birds with the same stone"
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Given what info you have already provided us, you might want to consider adding an additional door switch to the door in question in series with the door
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How remove front bearing in dremel 398 rotary tool? My Dremel (model 398) has a jammed front bearing probably due to too much dry wall cutting and not enough cleaning. I was shocked happy when I found several of those bearings (used) in my toolbox. I'm wondering how to remove the front shaft (red arrow) and bearing (green arrow). It looks like the bearing is glued to the main shaft of the motor and the front shaft is glued to the main shaft. The red arrow points to a hole in the front shaft. There is no set screw in there, just a hole. The front shaft is where the collet goes with the tools that one might want to use. Any ideas how to remove both the front shaft and bearing? Is brute force the only way to go?Thanks UPDATE: Added another picture to show the part that holds the bearing removed from the rest of the tool. <Q> This bearing looks like it was pressed on from the splined end of the rotary shaft. <S> Pull the shaft, tap it gently with a brass rod or a socket which fits around the bearing but won't score the shaft. <S> Do this and the bearing should come off. <S> Edit to add to my earlier question based on the new image: On a splined shaft as seen on your third image there should be a means to disconnect it safely from the plastic hub (or potentially clutch). <S> Because the inner race of the bearing will be to large to fit around <S> he non-threaded or splined portion of the rotary shaft the only means to replace the bearing <S> is to entirely disconnect the shaft. <S> That said, smaller splined shafts like this often only go back one way so be sure to make exactly how it is in its assembled orientation. <A> The real problem is how to remove the threaded nose from the shaft in front of the front bearing. <S> Forget the splines, they only make the shaft O.D. larger. <S> The front & rear bearings are on a one piece shaft. <A> Dremel tool holder piece and front bearing are pressed on the shaft from the front. <S> Stick 4 <S> mm nail in tool holder and use any bearing puller to remove bearing and tool holder at the same time or piece by piece. <S> Reinstall new bearing and tool holder in reverse order.
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The shaft cannot be removed without total disassembly of the armature including windings and laminations.
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Bad smell on clothes caused by plumbing? I had a washing machine engineer out today to look over my machine and help me understand why my clothes smell bad after every wash. He said it is caused by the plumbing under the sink Can you help me understand if this is correct? Here is a photo, the left goes to drain, middle is sink, and right is washing machine. <Q> I've never seen something like that before. <S> The most accepted form of plumbing requires a P-trap to prevent sewer gases from coming back into the house. <S> In your case they might be flowing into your washing machine. <S> I haven't seen many washing machine to under sink connections before and the more typical thing is a long standpipe for a washing machine to pump the water into. <S> I'd be fearful that the volume coming out of the washing machine would be too much for the sink assembly to handle in a short period of time possibly resulting in the water backing up into the sink until the volume had decreased. <A> I don't like the trap and would never install anything like this. <S> Not because of the traps bad design though. <S> I could live with using that trap. <S> However I don't like that the exit is about an inch lower than the wash machine discharge. <S> This seems an easy way for a small clog to create backup in the line. <S> But I don't think this is an issue unless this is clogged up. <S> I also highly doubt it is your water. <S> The easiest way to test this is to get a pail of water and soak clothes that smell as close to "nothing" as possible - so not your damp smell and <S> not the fresh just washed smell. <S> Let the clothes sit for a couple hours in the bucket and see if they smell after they dry. <S> But really this would need to be installed close to your tap as you might be stinky from showering due to this (hence the reason I don't think this is your issue - I have showered in well water houses... <S> and you know). <S> The most logical reason is due to some mold or bacteria buildup in the wash machine. <S> Take out all of the filters and clean them (you may have to read your user guide! <S> the horror). <S> Then run straight bleach for a few cycles, and leave machine open to dry. <S> You may have to do this over a couple days a few times. <S> You may also have to wipe under the seals and open up the back to see if there is anything around the drum. <S> This is not an easy thing to fix other than pouring bleach/chemicals and letting your washer dry out. <S> The repair guy sounded like a flake and should have told you this. <S> He probably didn't want to touch it because he could do a pretty decent job taking apart and cleaning but miss something <S> and you are still mad about a smell. <S> Everyone that does a decent amount of laundry should always be leaving the wash machine door open to dry faster and also to run an empty load on full/very hot with straight bleach. <S> Your clothes will smell better, your machine will last longer. <A> All we did was clean the wash machine filters, then washed clothes returned to smell properly as washed.
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We once had bad-smelling clothes after washing, then discovered that it was caused by the washing machine filter, that wasn't flushing away dirt water properly, but running it back into the machine, causing the bad smell. If this is your issue you are going to have to buy some sort of filtration system.
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Rewire attic fan from switched to always-on I have an attic fan wired to a thermostat that I'd like to come on whenever it's hot enough. The problem is, the fan is wired to a circuit that's operated by the light switch for the stairs into the attic, which also controls the light at the top of the stairs, as well as a pull-chain light in the attic. I don't want to have to leave the light at the top of the stairs on to get the fan to run! I also don't want to convert that light to a pull-chain light, since it's the only light in the stairs, and at the top. There's another switch installed just before the fan, apparently for code purposes, but it doesn't make much sense to me to only have the fan live when the wall switch in the stairs (and cosequently the light) is on. Is there an easy way to convert the switched-hot attic fan to always-hot, while keeping the two light fixtures between the fan and the switch as switched-hot? I say always-hot, but I would leave the final switch operating the attic fan only in case of emergency. <Q> Supply that fan switch you say is fitted for code purposes from the supply to the light switch, it will then be on all the time depending on its thermostat setting. <S> Leave the other light switches as is. <A> There are ways to wire up what you want but the scheme will depend entirely on how the live power feed comes to the existing circuit. <S> To a secondary extent there is a dependency upon how the fan is wired into the existing lighting circuit. <S> I will give a general overview of a couple of scenarios but you will have to provide decent photos of the following things before specific help can be provided. <S> Photo of the existing switch wiring, both the switch itself and a picture looking into the back of the electrical box. <S> Photo of the electrical box there the fan wiring intersects with the lighting circuit if it is not included in the photos from the above two items. <S> Case of live power feed into the switch location electrical box : <S> In this case it will be necessary for you to run an additional electrical cable (14/2 wGND or a 12/2 wGND to match existing wiring size from the switch box to the switch box by the fan. <S> Case of live power feed into the light electrical box : <S> In this case it will be necessary for you to run a new electrical cable from the light box to the switch box by the fan, unless the fan wiring already directly enters the box at the light. <A> Put in the lowest power bulb you are allowed to in the stairs light and leave the switch on. <S> This would be some Edison base LED. <S> From the existing light box run a short cable to another box for a higher power light which would effectively illuminate the attic. <S> The second fixture would be a ceramic base with pull chain. <S> A base with an integral socket wouldn't hurt, in case you ever need to use corded tools in the attic. <A> Problems like this used to be unsolvable, but are now the realm of smart switches . <S> You'll need a suitably matched set of smart switch, and either smart fixture, module or bulbs which can communicate with the smart switch. <S> This communication needs to be either wireless or via powerline signaling, since you have no wires to spare. <S> Then, you rewire it at the switch so all blacks (including the switch's) go together as always-hot and all whites (including the switch's) go together as neutral . <S> At this point, any dumb lamps will be on continuously. <S> You then replace them with smart lamps which answer to the switch. <S> Simpler is to wire it this way, but omit the switch altogether. <S> This means the bulb will be on 24x7, which is both a significant cost and a fire hazard if it's last century's incandescent bulb. <S> Using the rule of thumb of $1 per watt per year for always-hot loads, I say just slap a 4W LED light up there and call it good.
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Photo of the existing light wiring, both the light connections and a picture looking into the light junction box.
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How to fix drainage clog in the shower? Drainage in my bathroom is keep getting clogged. I tried using a snake by drilling manually ... poured at least 4 cans of Drain clog remover on different time period... in the last 3 days.. however, drainage is getting clogged .. it takes so much of time for water to drains through the drainage. I wonder, is there a better or best chemical which can remove the clogs? <Q> The problem with all liquid drain cleaners is contact time; they need time to dissolve the clot materials, but if there is even a small amount of flow, they drain away and thus stop working. <S> A good snaking job is much much better. <S> If you were using the typical sink snake that is long and thin, try renting the type that is a long flexible spiral steel spring with a way to rotate it. <S> Rotating it is how you get down past the trap. <S> Also as you do it, pull it out every few feet and look at the material on the end to make sure it is getting something. <S> If it is primarily hair, get a good hair trap for the drain to prevent it from going down there in the future. <A> 1. Plumbers friend. <S> I always start with this. <S> Use it when the tub is full <S> so you have a column of water to rock back and forth. <S> Put your back into it, man! <S> If there is something lodged sideways in there that collects hair, you might be able to dislodge it with effort. <S> Consider hot water. <S> If you suspect it might be a grease clog from the kitchen <S> you could try hot water. <S> If it is grease that should liquefy it and let it clear. <S> 3. <S> Clog remover. <S> If I suspect hair clogs I usually start with bleach because I always have some <S> and it is cheap. <S> Be generous. <S> I buy no splash bleach which in theory should be better because it is gooeyer. <S> Alkaline stuff like lye or sodium carbonate should work for grease or soap scum. <S> You should not mix different drain cleaning chemicals. <S> Let water flow between each effort. <A> Liquid-Plumr Pro-Strength <S> Full Clog Destroyer <S> Plus is a good one. <S> Pour 16oz of the product, let it sit for 15 mins then flush it with hot water. <S> This should get rid of the clog. <S> To prevent future clogs, install shower drain catchers. <A> My shower drain gets slow every few months. <S> What works very well is a "drain bladder" ; it threads to the end of a garden hose , put it into the drain and turn the water on full. <S> The bladder inflates to hold firmly in the drain and then water forces the blockage down the sewer. <S> The "drain bladders" come in several sizes depending on the drain diameter , about $ 20. <S> Every chemical cleaner has been tried and they do not work. <S> A commercial plumber cleaned it out once with his power rotor but it cost a lot more than $ 20.
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Get a big kettle of hot water and bring it to near boiling then pour it in all at once.
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Does this violate electrical code? (UF run plugged into GFCI to use smart outlet) I built a deck on the back of my house last year and installed a new breaker and a handful of outdoor electrical outlets. I wanted one outdoor outlet to be switchable via a smart outlet, but my smart outlets aren't waterproof so it had to be inside the house. As a solution, I installed a GFCI next to my breaker panel. I have my unswitched outlets coming off the load side of the GFCI so they are protected. For the switched outlet, I installed a plug onto the end of the UF wire run so I could plug it into my smart outlet. This is the part that seems iffy. I think I'm good on bend radius and wire support, it's not subject to continuous flexing and it's relatively protected from damage due to the remote location of the panel (although I could protect it further). It just doesn't quite feel right to have a permanently-installed circuit plugged into an outlet, despite being a clever solution to my problem. I'm using a 15A non-AFCI/GFCI breaker and 12 AWG UF wire. I ran 12 in case I ever wanted to upgrade the circuit to 20A, but my smart outlet is only rated for 15A anyway. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits this? I have access to a full copy of NFPA-70 2014 and would like specific references. I'm willing to change whatever I need to be code-compliant, but I still want to be able to be able to switch my outdoor outlet via some sort of smart-home device. <Q> It does violate the NEC (assuming that you are in the US and the NEC applies to you). <S> UF cable is not designed to connect to portable cord devices, portable cord devices are not designed to accept UF cable. <S> Article 110.3(B) states: " <S> Listed or labeled equipmentshall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling. <S> " You will not find any instructions with the listing or labeling saying you can do this, ergo you cannot. <A> I agree, this is "nope". <S> The way I would handle this - first, I'd use metal boxes because I'm lazy about running ground wires. <S> I'd start by removing the current box. <S> I'd knock out the highest 1/2" or 3/4" knockout and fit an EMT spacer to connect to a 4-11/16" square steel box. <S> We'll need the room. <S> Fit a steel cover that provides 2 Decora. <S> One slot gets the GFCI outlet. <S> The other slot gets a 15A inlet . <S> Both cables to outside terminate in the box. <S> I'm moving the box upward to create some slack so you can deal with codevio's at the window entrance. <S> The cable you want switched goes to the inlet . <S> The cable that is not switched goes to the GFCI's LOAD terminals. <S> The GFCI LINE terminals go to white and black wires, which run through to the panel to the breaker and neutral bar. <S> Then you plug the smart switch into the GFCI. <S> Then you use a 1' long extension cord to go from the smart switch to the inlet. <S> The grounds for the inlet and cables get pigtailed to the ground screw in the box. <S> The box and the close nipple carry ground to the service panel and outlet. <S> That cable near the window is vulnerable to physical damage. <S> It should be folded down more tight to the wall, and guarded by something, not least so the window-opening mechanism can operate without endangering the cable. <A> A plug-in smart outlet is the wrong device for this Instead, what you want is a smart relay, or smart light switch. <S> That way, you can wire directly off the load side of your GFCI, and will not need a creative solution to connect the output of a NEMA 5-15 socket into your fixed building wiring. <S> Option 1: <S> UL Listed Smart Relay <S> Although specific product recommendations are off-topic for this site, I'm going to link to one anyway, since as far as I know, there's only one smart relay module that's both UL listed and compatible with modern smart home systems (Alexa/Google Home) <S> : <S> The Shelly 2.5 . <S> Note that they currently sell them in both UL listed and non-listed versions -- <S> if you're in the US, you need the UL listing to be legal and pass inspection; if you're in Europe, you can use either. <S> These are designed to mount in a junction box or on a DIN rail. <S> Option 2: <S> Smart Light Switch <S> Here, you have more options from all the usual suspects (Lutron, GE, etc). <S> Note that you'll still want to look for a UL listing. <S> Replace the junction box your GFCI is in with a 2-gang one, and add a smart switch next to the GFCI. <S> An advantage of this setup is that you can manually operate the switch even if your wifi goes down. <A> My actual solution I fixed this a while ago but never came back to update the post. <S> I ended up getting a Wemo smart light switch (since I already have other Wemo devices) and wired that to the load side of my GFCI to control my outside outlet. <S> Looks nice and works great!
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Wire the line side of the smart switch to the load side of the GFCI, and the load side of the smart switch to the UF cable feeding your outdoor outlet.
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Running EMT conduit through soffit into attic I am running a couple of new circuits to the bathroom which will involve running THHN wires through the emt conduit. The problem is that my panel is on the exterior wall and the conduit will need to enter the attic space. It was suggested that I bend the conduit in the center (90 degrees) and push it up through a hole in the soffit to enter the attic. But that plan looks naive because I ran into some wood about 3 inches up from the hole in the soffit. Should I drill a hole in the wood to access attic space? If so, the hole would have to be pretty big to allow bent conduit to wiggle through it. Update 1: On a whim I drilled through the wood and then I was inside the attic. Pushed a stick through and was able to see 8 inches of it from within the attic. Now off to conduit bending, installing and cable pulling. Picture of soffit: View from inside the attic: <Q> Just plan to put a coupler on the EMT right past the bend. <S> Then you can either put it through the hole from the top, or the bottom, whichever works best. <A> OK, I am assuming you are running 15A or 20A circuits for the bathroom and it can be run in 1/2" conduit. <S> First you are right to abandon the idea to bend EMT through the soffit and into the attic. <S> Unless you get really lucky the geometry just doesn't work out. <S> I also suggested LFMC because if you use LFNC (Carflex) or Liquid Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit with no metal you may find it exteremly hard to bull wire through it due to the friction of the insulation and interior of the conduit. <S> You need to have at least a 7/8 <S> " (let's just say a 1" or larger) opening to get the conduit through to the attic. <S> How you do it is a good question you can try and push it through. <S> You might be able to fish a wire or fish tape up through the opening. <S> I have found my best success with "fish sticks", found in almost any hardware store. <S> Now here is what most people don't want to here. <S> When all else fails you may have to take down some of the soffit panels to install your conduit or cut an opening in it using a small plumping access panel. <S> Either way if done properly neatly <S> it's really not as horrible as it sounds initially. <S> Be sure and seal up any exterior holes into the attic since all kinds of inserts and varmints can use them for access. <S> Good luck. <A> What I see in this area is emt run just up the wall and a few inches into the soffit (as a sleeve). <S> NM cable is used in this sleeve and there is a small white bushing that you put on top of the conduit where the NM comes out of it to protect it from chafing. <S> Most AC disconnects fed from attics in this area are wired this way.
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Instead you need to either transition from EMT to LFMC, Liquid Flexible Metallic Conduit (Sealtight) and run the it through the opening between the soffit and attic. You could also run the entire circuit in LFMC, but it requires a lot of strapping to make it look neat.
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Attaching swing bolts to sistered 2x10’s I have 2x10’s that I will be sandwiching together to make a big stiff beam for an adult swing set. I’m about to put it together, but then I thought “how do you drill the screws for swings into a sistered beam”? Because the boards are mated together, the screw will want to push those boards apart. <Q> Once the screw is in at full depth the clamp is removed. <S> It might take four clamps--from both edges of the beam. <S> Also you might want to use wax or other appropriate lubricant on the screws and be careful to avoid making the "pilot" holes too small. <S> EDIT <S> If the pilot holes are properly sized (large enough), then there may be no significant separating force and so clamps may not be necessary. <S> If you don't have clamps, try it without them and see what happens. <S> If separation occurs you can always take the screw out and get some clamps. <A> Another option would be to use carriage bolts on both sides of where the eye hooks are going in. <S> Glue the boards together with construction adhesive. <S> Use 4 bolts, two on each side of the eye hooks, top and bottom. <S> Use 3/8" bolts, ( or 1/2" ) large washers and nuts. <S> Personally i would just glue the boards together with construction adhesive and screw them together with extra screws around where the eye hooks are going to be. <A> Instead of screw into the seam You can use a bolt through the seam and use a washer+metal plate on the other side to spread the load.
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You could use a pair of large clamps close to and flanking the screwhole to prevent the screws from pushing the plies apart.
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Bending bars of iron gate We just moved into a new house with some iron fencing around the backyard and a large double gate to allow access to the backyard. Unfortunately one side of the gate was damaged at some point in the past and the two sides don't meet anymore and the latch doesn't close. Even worse the gap is big enough for my dog to slip through. How can I bend that one bar back closer to true so that the two sides meet and my dog won't be able to run away? Trying to save myself the large expense of having to get a whole new gate. My first thought was to use my car's scissor jack as recommended in this answer to a very similar question , but I don't think I could get it to fit in between the two bars in the right spot. The clamp spreader I feel is probably a good option, but I'm not sure how to use anything that spreads while preventing the bar next to it from bending instead -- which seems like the most likely outcome given the inward bent. <Q> You can use what's called a "come along", it's a portable hand operated winch-like tool for moving things short distances with a lot of force. <S> The thing is, you will need to find a point at which to anchor one end that is significantly stronger than the bar, like a fence post, otherwise if you just connect to another bar just like it, you bend them both. <S> This video shows the general operation of it, you would need to adapt to your situation. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FfVsfto7-g <A> Since it’s on the end, you might try attaching a length of sturdier steel pipe (schedule 40?) <S> to the bent bar, maybe even with duct tape. <S> Then use clamps/straps to bend towards the steel pipe. <S> This would avoid bending any adjacent bars and doesn’t put too much additional stress on the hinges besides the added weight of the pipe. <A> We opened the gate to a point where it was sitting on the ground, then I braced it with just a foot on the bottom edge and yanked as hard as I could, twice. <S> It surprisingly bent pretty easily. <S> I hadn't noticed before but the gate was also bent on both sides where it connected to the hinges, which contributed to the big gap. <S> Pulling out and upward on both gates straightened those edge pieces out as well.
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Believe it or not, we were able to fix the gate just by pulling on it. Small light duty ones are inexpensive or in many cases you can rent one from a rental yard.
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Convert Front Door Entry Mailbox to a Front & Rear Door Entry Mailbox I need to convert a regular MEDIUM size STEEL mailbox with only one streetside entry door to place mail in & to take mail out. I'm trying to figure out how to remove the backside of the mailbox so I can add a rear door facing the sidewalk. So far I've had no luck finding a MEDIUM size steel mailbox that has both front & rear door entries. How would I remove the backside of a STEEL mailbox so I can add a rear door? <Q> What you're going to want to do is this: <S> That back of the mail box is going to be crimped on in such a way that it can't be removed without cutting the back of the mailbox off. <S> This would leave sharp edges, so you could round those off and then attempt to re-use the back as a makeshift door, or you could just get another mailbox and use the door from it. <S> There's several ways you can use the two mailboxes to make one double-ender, so that bit of creativity is up to you. <S> I'd probably cut the back 40% off of each one and join the fronts to end up with a slightly longer "limo" mailbox. <S> I see what you mean about finding a "medium" double door box. <S> They also have replacement doors <S> that are made for bricked in mailboxes that might work for this, but they seem very expensive for what they are. <A> You probably can't. <S> Mailboxes must be approved by the US Postal Service. <S> That would seem to prohibit alterations in the box proper . <S> Shrouding <S> it is ok, of course. <A> I just made this exact retrofit and the results were excellent. <S> First I removed the back panel which left the flange of the main portion of the box. <S> Then I flattened the flange of the main portion of the box with a brass hammer (supporting the inside of the box with a few lengths of 2x4's. <S> I did not think it flattened as much as I wanted it to be so <S> then I used my Vice Grips to flatten/crimp it further. <S> I had another mailbox of the same size <S> so I had a donor for the new door. <S> I drilled out the rivets which held the door to the main portion of the donor mailbox. <S> Then I placed the donor door on the back of my new mailbox and drilled the holes in the bottom edge of the main portion of the box. <S> I needed to hold the two layers of metal together with Vice grips when drilling the holes. <S> Finally I used 1/4" hardware to attach the new door to the back of the mailbox. <S> I used a screw with a wide head and a nylon lock nut. <S> The door was initially difficult to close and open <S> so I just needed to make a few adjustments to the shape of the flattened/crimped opening. <S> The cost of this retrofit was much lower than the alternatives. <S> Option 1 is QTY 2 of the MEDIUM size mailboxes which are around $20 each at The Home Depot. <S> Option 3 is the replacement door in the image posted above, but the cost of that replacement door is around $35 on amazon.com. <S> My retrofit was definitely the best option and it looks great
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Option 2 is to purchase a mailbox which is specifically designed with a double door, but the only available size is a LARGE and that is around $50 on amazon.com.
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How to repair large drywall section? I had to remove a relatively large section of the drywall, approximately 24x24 inches. There are two metal studs at the sides. Should I try to cut out so both the existing and the new drywall will touch half of the metal stud on each side? And put in screws on both sides? Or there is a more clever way to fix this? <Q> Should I try to cut out <S> so both the existing and the new drywall will touch half of the metal stud on each side? <S> And put in screws on both sides? <S> Yes that is an effective way to do it. <S> Another way is to add a board, 1"x4" boards work great, as structure to screw to. <S> Clean up your hole <S> so the cuts are straight and at 90 degrees to each other so you can use a nice square or rectangle piece as a patch. <S> Place the boards <S> so that half of it is behind the old sheet rock, length wise along the cut, and <S> half is sticking out <S> so you have something to screw the new piece to. <S> Now you can cut a piece to fit the hole and screw it in place. <S> Tape and mud the seams. <S> Sand and mud, sand and mud and sand, prime and paint. <S> Floating a but joint with mud is an acquired skill. <S> Watch some YouTube video's and practice on a mock up of a but joint. <A> I’ve had really good experiences with these style of clips . <S> I’ve used them after a copper repipe to close the access holes. <S> You could also use them in combination to cutting back to the studs. <S> Or just use them alone. <S> The one application <S> I’ve found these not to work well with is when you’ve cut the drywall right against the stud - then it isn’t possible to slide the clip in because the stud is in the way. <A> I would suggest doing it like this: First straighten out the hole and cut the edges clean with a large steel ruler and a Stanley knife. <S> Then I would attach two or three horizontal steel "dwangs" or "noggings" ( <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dwang ) between the two vertical studs with screws. <S> Then I would cut out an appropriately sized piece new of drywall and then screw the piece to the "noggings". <S> Finish with drywall finishing plaster and paint.
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Screw the board in place through the old existing sheet rock, make sure your screw heads are counter sunk.
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Cheap way to make cardboard box waterproof? I will be attempting to make some concrete planters with two cardboard boxes. Below is the DIY that I will follow: As you can see, the interior of the outer box & the exterior of the inner box must be waterproof. So the instructions say to use duct tape for this, but duct tape is expensive. I'm thinking there may be a cheaper way, like maybe spraying the box with something to make the cardboard waterproof. Does this make sense or is duct tape the only way? <Q> How about plastic bags ? <S> You will need 2. <S> Put inner box inside one. <S> Leave bag open at top so concrete can push air out of the bag and flatten it against inner box. <S> Put bagged box inside another bag. <S> Then double bagged box inside outer box. <S> Pour concrete between the 2 bags. <S> Bags will flatten against boxes as they fill and contain concrete between the 2 boxes. <S> Peel off bags after concrete sets. <S> You may get some aesthetically pleasing wrinkles in the final product. <S> Added bonus <S> : it will be easy to retrieve boxes from final product. <S> @manassehkatz is right about the concrete collapsing the boxes. <S> You could address this with a hole (or a pile of sand). <S> Dig a hole in the ground large enough to contain planter. <S> Put box/bag mold into the hole and put dirt down around outer box. <S> That will keep it from bursting outwards from weight of wet concrete. <S> Or you could just fill inside box with sand and wrap outer box with ropes. <A> Start with waxed cardboard, commonly found in boxes for produce that might be wet. <S> You could wax your own, but you won't do as good a job <S> and it won't be nearly as inexpensive, and will take more time (so costs more in money and time, at which point you might just as well spend the money on a cardboard tube form made for the purpose.) <S> They do need to be built and shaped so that they can be removed for reuse, but it's not terribly difficult. <A> The problem with duct tape isn't just the cost, it is the hassle. <S> Plus, cardboard isn't exactly the strongest material - you run a real risk of the outer cardboard collapsing under the weight of the concrete. <S> If I were doing this, I would probably try plywood. <S> The question, of course, is how inexpensively can you get plywood of the right size. <S> Currently (subject to change daily!), you can get an 11/32", 4' x 8' sheet of plywood at Home Depot in my area (Maryland, USA) for $14.03. <S> Borrow a saw (a good table saw would be easiest to get precision cuts but there are other ways) and cut inner and outer forms from the plywood. <S> A box of screws to put it together <S> and you can make a whole bunch of planters (as long as they are the same size) with the same forms.
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Fill inner box with dirt to fortify it against collapse. You may be able to find scrap plywood at a construction site, but if not then head over to your local big box home improvement store. A more sustainable approach (perhaps depending on how many planters you, or you and your friends, want) is to go with properly shaped wooden forms, and oil them before pouring (oil would probably degrade the cardboard too much) which can be used to make as many planters as you want from one set of forms.
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Should my mirror fog up when showering with a proper exhaust fan running? I run the exhaust fan when showering but even so, the mirror fogs up completely. Is this an indication that the fan is not sized or functioning correctly? Or is this expected behavior, as no exhaust fan could keep up with that amount of humidity put into the air that fast? The mirror is right outside the shower, as is the exhaust fan, but I've seen this happen when the mirror is farther away from the shower and/or around a corner. <Q> Depends on: <S> The location of the fan relative to the shower and the mirror <S> The effectiveness of the fan <S> The air temperature in the room <S> The initial relative humidity of the room <S> The temperature and volume of the shower steam <S> The length of the shower HVAC conditions Window configuration (sunlight and airflow) <S> The bottom line is that it might, but it doesn't much matter as long as the fan is run long enough to reduce humidity after each shower. <S> In my case (Minnesota), this means an hour in the winter and at least two in the summer (though maybe less when air-conditioning is active). <S> A digital timer switch is very helpful. <A> The hotter water can continuously create more humidity than the fan can handle while the shower is running. <S> If the mirror stays fogged for a long period after you've turned off the shower though you may have a fan issue. <A> Generally, (in the US at least) residential bath/toilet room exhaust fans are manufactured sold to meet the minimums required by the applicable building code. <S> Historically this has been 50 cubic feet per minute irrespective of room size or fixture particulars. <S> The purpose is general sanitation: reducing mold and diffusion of human waste vapors throughout the dwelling. <S> Mirror fogging is not a consideration when it comes down to “proper” exhaust sizing in ordinary circumstances. <A> The fog is caused by hot water continuously running when you shower. <S> If you try to shower with lukewarm water, the fog won't be as bad as the hot water. <S> It is really not an issue with the exhaust <S> you just have to wait for a couple of mins for the fog to dissipate. <S> Just make sure to keep your bathroom door open after you shower to avoid mold buildup since humidity is very high.
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The mirror will fog when you're showering with hot water no matter how good your exhaust fan is.
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Stop Gravel from Washing Away My problem is that we have a long area of gravel used for parking for myself and several neighbors. When it rains really hard, the gravel alongside the road washes away and becomes a real danger for tires and probably the road itself. After googling (ducking, actually) the best way to avoid gravel washing away, it seems a French drain is the best method to do this. Only part of the lengthy gravel area is affected. I'm wondering if I can just install a partial French drain for the affected area and leave the unaffected as is or if the lower French drain would cause the upper area to become affected. I don't have to dig to install the French drain on the affected area because I can just fish the gravel out and lay the perforated pipe in so I could do this in a day. However, if I have to do the upper part it will take considerably more time and effort to call 811, dig through at least a foot of gravel and lay it throughout the graveled area. Also, I have been just going to our local rock quarry and getting crusher run 47 by the 5 gallon bucket which typically only costs about $6 when I get 5, but I have to make multiple trips. This happens at least 3-5 times a year. Thanks! There is a low spot, probaby 8-10 inches right under the red car and about 5 feet behind the red car. The area by the back car that has the lip of the road is barely affected. I've only ever put gravel there once. <Q> There are gravel driveway stabilizer products made to solve this kind of problem. <S> They typically take the form of a mesh/lattice of some sort - sometimes flexible/fabric while others are a ridgid plastic <A> Crushed stone then compacted Crushed stone #411 – A mixture of stone dust and #57 stone. <S> For driveways, roads and as a base for retaining walls. <S> It can also be used to patch holes in paved areas. <S> The dust mixes with the larger stone and settles well. <S> Crushed stone is a basic material used in various capacities. <S> It is a widely used raw asset in the construction industry. <S> The extraction of hard rock that is turned into various crushed stone grades is a great economic indicator. <S> Crushed stone is and will continue to be a very integral part of things we build. <S> If you are working on a construction project and get help deciding what crushed stone grade you need. <S> https://www.braenstone.com/crushed-stone-grades/ <A> A guess: the affected area receives concentrated drainage from the road surface. <S> I predict the water runs along the road and then escapes off into the gravel at one spot, which receives a torrent and washes away. <S> The unaffected area receives no drainage because the entirety of the road drainage is going thru the affected area. <S> You could go out when it rains hard and see if this is the case. <S> Rather than mess with gravel, you could divert the water. <S> Keep it on the road until it gets to the storm drain, or divert it off the road in smaller manageable amounts across a longer stretch of road. <S> You could build up the edge of the road and make a hump to keep the water on the road. <A> Perhaps machine compaction of the area would reduce the rate of erosion.
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Or you could lay diagonals of concrete patch compound across the road to bring water across into the gravel in less concentrated amounts.
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Fan with Remote issue I just got a fan that came with a remote. I have one wall that has 2 switches 1 for the light and 1 for the fan. You can also turn that same light on from 2 other switches. I wired everything up, but for some reason the fan remote doesn’t work for the light. It works for the fan. What did I not wire correctly? Please help and thanks! My ceiling has white black red and ground coming out. This is what I used as a reference to wire (C) Ceiling / ac supply: white, black & Red (RI) Receiver In: white, blue & black (RO) Receiver out: white & black (F) Fan: white, black & blue Connections C white & RO white RI white & F white RI black & F black RI blue (alone) RO white & C white RO black & C black C red & F blue <Q> You wrote (RI) <S> Receiver <S> In: white, blue & black <S> (RO) Receiver out: white & black <S> I think you have this reversed. <S> The receiver controls the fan and light separately with inputs of white and black (neutral and hot, respectively) and outputs of white, blue and black (neutral, switched hot for light and switched hot for fan, respectively). <S> You could have only one wall switch provide input to the receiver and use the remote to control the fan and light independently. <S> The other switch and its hot would be unused. <S> If you mount the receiver on the wall switch, this might satisfy the requirement that there be a light switch on the wall. <S> You could cover the unused switch with a shabbat light switch cover, e.g. these . <S> But the blue output from the receiver to the light would not be used. <S> Instead you would connect the hot from the light wall switch directly to the blue wire to the light. <S> You can do this because there is a common neutral white in the cable from the wall to the ceiling box. <A> I'd dispense with the remote that came with the fan and substitute something else in its stead <S> The remotes that come with ceiling fans are bottom-of-the-barrel designs intended to get someone going if they have no other options for fan control. <S> As a result of this, they do not play nicely with just about anything else, including wall switches. <S> The solution to this, if you want remote control of the fan and light, is to ditch the remote that came with the fan and swap the wall switches controlling the fan and light with suitable "smart" remote switches; Lutron makes a dimmer and a fan controller in their Caseta line that are both suitable for this application, as long as the switch box has a neutral available at it. <A> You wired it correctly. <S> We could rewire this thing so the light operates on the remote instead of the switches . <S> Just one problem with that. <S> The Building Codes require those wired switches actually switch a light , so that guests don't get hurt tripping around the room trying to find a light, and First Responders can get a light on quickly to do their job. <S> Installing additional room lights to replace the fan's light is a pretty big undertaking. <S> You can't wire it so the remote's light switch works with the 3 existing switches, because that requires a relay and more wires than you have available in the cable between switch and fan. <S> You would need to change that to a /4+ground cable, then we could talk. <S> It may be possible to achieve that functionality with a matched set of smart switches, fan module, and remote*, but that will require you change to a different module and remote.
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If you want to forego having the light controlled by the remote, and just have the light controlled by the wall switch (to satisfy the code requirement), you could operate the fan with the remote, and have the line hot to the receiver be the switched hot from the fan wall switch.
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Help with meaning of symbols on switch for electrical blinds I have a difficulty of understanding what is the meaning of these symbols on the back of my switch for electrical blinds? I know that the symbol is for the switch but have a hard time understanding what does the "extra quarter of the circle" is for? Thanks in advance. <Q> It looks like "L" is common, and the other two are momentary-closed when you push the up or down button. <S> There's nothing more than that; the circle doesn't mean anything. <S> Each terminal provides two holes to attach wires, if you're wondering. <A> Here's my interpretation: on the left you can see a switch that, when closed, raises the blinds (the up-arrow on the top left). <S> That switch then triggers a time delay which, when done, allows a switch on the right to lower the blinds (the down-arrow at the bottom center). <A> It looks like a normally open time delay to close switch
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I think the "L" is actually a clock icon, indicating a time delay:
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Hail hit my roof. Do I need to replace it? We had a hail storm last night. Some of the pebbles were about an inch in diameter, although most were smaller. I went up and took some pictures of part of the roof. Most of the shingles look ok, but some appear to be missing granules and some also have small pieces of the shingle missing. There's more photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRFFCTTuBfHoRo2GA . Do I need a new roof? <Q> Yes The granules (they're typically ceramic) act as UV protection and fire retardant. <S> It's normal to lose these over time, but the shingle in your bottom picture looks to be missing as much as half its granules. <S> Additionally, the larger the hail stone, the more likely it damaged the shingles themselves (1" hail stones are serious). <S> Most homeowners insurance will cover this type of damage, meaning you pay the deductible and get a new roof. <S> The key here is I would not wait long to at least explore a claim on this, lest you be unable to prove it was hail that did the deed. <S> This is one of those lesser known (and hard to notice) ways your roof can be seriously damaged. <S> I would get at least two roofing companies out to examine it and verify the damage. <A> My shingles have been replaced twice because of hail at ages of about 12 and 5 years. <S> They didn't look very bad to me but the insurance inspector agreed and it was covered 100% both times. <S> I am not a professional <S> but I have put on two roofs. <S> So, as has been said, you need a qualified inspector . <S> After the hail storms we had many contractors come to the neighborhood to give free inspections . <S> We got an inspector recommendation from our insurance agent. <A> Should you choose to not proceed with an insurance claim with this particular incident, and you have indeed taken damage, keep in mind that the next incident that damages your roof might cause issues with a future claim, should it necessitate an immediate repair. <S> What I mean is that if the damage from a future incident is in itself minor, but enough to tip it over the edge to require you to replace it, the insurance company might claim that since the damage caused in the last incident was only minor the roof shouldn't be covered by them - that the fault was a previous issue or a pre-existing fault. <S> I don't know if I'm explaining it well. <S> What I'm trying to say is that not checking with a roofing professional and the insurance company to gauge whether it needs repairs now, might give the insurance agency a loophole to not process a future unrelated claim.
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Your roof has apparently taken damage, as you have documented.
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Ant proofing a wall For some reason yellow meadow ants have developed a fascination with a certain interior wall in our house. The usual gels, powders and sprays are having little effect. They do slow down for a while but just appear again further along the wall. In part this has been caused by the sealant coming away between the skirting board and floor. Clearly I should replace this, but would caulk (or something else) be better at deterring ants in the future? Also, any other advice on how to eradicate or otherwise slow down their progress would be appreciated in the meantime. <Q> Since you see the ants by an interior wall, it is likely the ants were in your house all along and are just being seen now. <S> If you can see them, you can treat them. <S> If the bait was stronger, it would kill the individual workers that eat it, but not the whole nest. <S> If you still have trouble, you might post more info, like # ants, part of world you live in, exactly what happened when you tried gels, location of wall, pix, etc. <A> Caulk is a great way to seal up the holes in your homes to prevent future infestations. <S> But it is often recommended to handle the current infestation first before sealing the opening. <A> Follow them: Unless you are only seeing the occasional ant, they found something. <S> Get rid of it. <S> Get boric acid. <S> You can find it in the pest control isle. <S> It's a powder in squeeze bottle. <S> It's kid safe and animal safe. <S> Dust across their path in a few places and wait. <S> The acid will stick to their exoskeleton and begin to dissolve it. <S> It's slow enough that they will most likely get back to their nest and take their buddies out. <S> Works <S> well on cockroaches and water bugs too. <A> Ants need food, water, shelter. <S> Hopefully your wall is only providing shelter. <S> If the ants aren't getting water from inside you walls (ie leak), they have to travel back outside to drink. <S> I would spray a bifenthrin insecticide <S> barrier around the outside of your house, where the walls meet the ground. <S> This will kill insects on contact for a couple months. <S> You can certainly try to seal your house but nature finds a way. <S> If that doesn't get rid of them, I would go with home made boric acid ant traps . <S> Different ants are attracted to different things. <S> Most like sugar. <S> Some like oil. <S> Dissolve 8 tsp sugar to 1 cup warm water to make sugar water. <S> Dissolve 1 tsp boric acid. <S> Get several small plastic containers, poke ant-sized holes in the base, put poison soaked cotton balls inside. <S> If you've got the right lure, the first week the ants will swarm the bait. <S> Resist the urge to kill them. <S> They'll take the poison back to the queen and you should see ant activity die off within 2 weeks.
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Some baits (aka poisons, like Terro liquid) take 3-4 weeks to work because the ants take the bait back to the nest a very little bit at a time.
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Will a shorter bar increase my chainsaw's power significantly? If I swap-on a 16", or 14", bar & chain onto my 42cc / 18"-OEM-bar chainaw, will I have a significant cut-power boost? I've been reading about everything related to chainsaws that I can find (and youtubing, especially Steve's Saloon series!) but haven't found a solid answer to this yet... If you're very very comfortable with a powerhead that came OEM with an 18" bar, but you never ever plan to use the thing in a manner that'd require >14" bar, wouldn't you get a serious power-boost by using the 14" bar (relative to the 18")? Thanks for any answers/explanations on this one, am aware my 18" accommodates 14" and 16" bars (with specific drive-links at least) and wanting to down-grade the bar size (as I need more than this 18"s 42cc powerhead for my biggest saw) and just kinda hoping it's worthwhile to make the downgrade (instead of just buying another 18" chain for it, despite never using it on stuff over 1-2' wide!) Also curious what type of chain(s) would be the most-aggressive that I could get, have read Oregon's manual and while it describes them it doesn't really say "this is the strongest"...I know I don't want a 'safety chain' (cut-link as every-other-link on the chain) but past that am unsure where to aim, bar/sprocket are generic 3/8" / 0.050"...actually I have a 14" with bad powerhead, may do some comparison-testing if the drive-links & pitch & gauge are appropriate for my 42cc's sprocket! <Q> No. <S> Or yes. <S> It isn't like gearing. <S> A shorter chain doesn't compound torque like a smaller gear does. <S> The amount of force applied at any point on the chain is identical. <S> However, the shorter bar limits how much contact the chain can make with the wood. <S> Herein lies the difference. <S> If you're cutting 16" of wood rather than 18" the motor isn't working as hard. <S> Should you do it? <S> Probably not. <S> You needlessly restrict yourself with respect to reach, and you can accomplish the same goal by working in a less aggressive manner when you're dealing with maximum-depth cuts. <A> Having done this with many chainsaws over the years (Danarm, Stihl, Husquvarna), the power from the engine gets shared between the number of teeth doing the cutting as well as the drive sprocket / chain losses and the chain / bar friction. <S> Then you need to consider the type of teeth - some are designed to better handle harder woods like oak and other teeth profiles designed for more resinous woods. <S> So, you have to have extra chains to deal with what you face. <S> On a bad day we would go through 3 or 4 chains - only need one small stone stuck in the bark and the chain needed resharpening - quicker to fit a spare chain and continue. <S> Then sharpen the chains in the evening... <A> Reducing the bar size reduces the the surface area of the chain. <S> This decreases the load on the engine/motor of the saw from bar drag, cut surface size, and inertial mass of the chain itself. <S> A skip chain can also reduce drag on the motor by reducing the inertial mass, and the number of cutting links engaged in the wood. <S> Both have the effect of making your saw more peppy, and in my experience cutting faster. <S> The majority of consumer saws use bar size as a selling point. <S> They are usually sold with a bar length near the limit of their capability. <S> I do this with all my saws, and it works great.
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Reducing the bar length puts the saw more within the sweet spot of the saws capability.
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Laminate Planking will not "Click-in" So, yesterday while trying to install some flooring (Pergo -Timbercraft). I have installed it in a previous room before and had no issue. However this time while trying to fit it into my bay window on piece (the second last one...) it will not click into place. I can't get it into place no matter how hard I try. Below are some pictures. Sorry the orientation on the flooring shows it as vertical, not horizontal which would be correct - I don't know how to change it on here. As you can see, the angle against the wall is quite small meaning as I am hammering it in (to close the gap) most of the force is just going into the pieces behind it (not to the right as it should be). Any ideas I can try? Added picture to show the angle. <Q> I ran into similar issue in past. <S> My solution was to click the 2 boards for the last row together first and then add both boards as a unit. <A> I normally would use a flooring hook to be able to hit the plate at the right angle: If that doesn't work, I would remove the plate and check if it or the ones around it aren't damaged, and replace the damaged one with a new one. <A> Under the following assumptions, there will eventually be a quarter round or other trim strip to cover the gap between the laminate material and the existing trim around the window (which will help hold the laminate in place regardless of if it's clicked-in or not <S> this isn't likely to be a high-traffic or high-stress area for your flooring material <S> you just can't get it to click, even after you've checked that the groove is clean and you've tried using a pull bar and/or a flooring hook <S> My next step would be to use a wedge-shaped shim between the board and the wall of windows, as a way to help your hammering/pulling force get directed in the right orientation. <S> so it's flush without that gap showing. <S> With no groove, you should be able to butt the finished surface up tight without having to force anything to click. <S> The quarter round (or other trim) will hold it in place well enough. <S> If it does move enough for the gap to reappear, you can tack that one board in place with trim nail(s) hidden under the quarter round. <S> An advantage of floating laminate flooring is that when you have a challenging spot like this, you can try something out - and if it doesn't work, just replace the board and try something else - all you've lost is a few minutes of time.
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If that doesn't work, as a final resort, I would just cut the groove off the short end of the piece (but leave the finished surface intact, and leave the groove on the long edge intact, since it seems to be seating correctly) and slide it in place
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Would it be appropriate to sand a floor between coats of poly with a handheld orbital sander? Very closely related: How should I sand before the final coat of polyurethane? However, I'm not asking for a how-to or which is the preferred tool/method but rather one specific tool and if it's an "ok" approach to take. Assuming I already owned a 5" random orbital sander (similar to below example image), would it be realistic to use it with 220+ grit sandpaper rather than a "full-fledged" floor buffer, at least to the level where I can use it between a few coats of poly and still achieve a good finish on the final coat? I'm not really asking if it's necessarily practical, but more as a cost saver while also being able to achieve a decent result (plus I don't have the level of experience with the larger equipment as I'd like/be comfortable with). From what I've been reading, poly doesn't seem to need a whole lot of intense sanding between layers and just a little roughing up for subsequent layers (by all means correct my if I'm wrong here - would rather be berated online than ruin a perfectly good floor). I know it'll take longer simply due to size, but I'm only looking at a couple hundred square feet anyway, nothing overly large. <Q> I had two floors to do once and between coats <S> I used a broom with 3 bits of fine sanding paper <S> taped to the broom head - cheap, cheerful and effective... <S> Also, had to punch down the floor brads (nails) <S> so they were below the surface... <S> Those floors came up magic but also vacuumed after sanding to remove the dust... <A> You could use a hand-held orbital- <S> like you mentioned the biggest downside is time. <S> But you're correct, sanding between coats of poly isn't stripping an old floor- <S> it's just scuffing up the previous coat of poly in preparation for the next one. <S> Even easier for this step though would probably be a pole sander- like the kind for drywall seams. <S> Use a fine grit paper and run it over the whole floor- <S> you don't need much pressure. <A> That is fine. <S> All you're trying to do is knock down petrified fluff and dust. <S> And also scuff the surface to give it some "tooth" for the next coat to bite in to, but that is not necessary if you've hit your re-coat times. <S> As such, you do not want a tool meant to level; that would mean blowing through the coating entirely on high spots. <S> A flexible, follow the contours tool is appropriate. <A> Best thing to use is steel wool on pole sander. <S> Harper has a good point you are not leveling, but beyond that most sand papers from home improvement stores are to heavy of a grit. <S> Besides it is VERY difficult to clean up all of the sanding grit prior to the next coat. <S> Steel wool and a good cleaning prior to the next coat will give you a mirror finish. <A> I did exactly what you're suggesting a couple years ago on ~500 sq ft of hardwood floor, with great results. <S> In fact, you need to be careful not to spend any time on a single spot or you'll sand right through the whole poly layer. <S> Perhaps a second or two per square foot was about right in my case. <A> You could, but I wouldn't. <S> It's just going to be a lot of tiring work <S> (the sander is moderately heavy, at least for moving it around while sitting or kneeling on a floor you're working on) and possibly take off more material than you want if you're not careful. <S> When I finished wood floors, I just used large-size sanding sponges (very light) and a few passes back and forth by hand. <S> Other answers have remarked that you could do the same with sandpaper (or a sponge) on the end of a broom/pole of some sort, and that sounds even better still.
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As long as you have a semi-decent sander (connected to a vacuum) and decent sandpaper that doesn't clog all the time, you'll be done in no time.
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My copper pipe has a leak right at the basement slab surface Leak in pipe is barely above the concrete floor. If try to cut and solder will be too low. Any suggestions? Too close to concrete for SharkBite connections. <Q> It's basically just like a sleeve. <S> You don't have to cut the pipe near the concrete. <S> Sand and flux the bottom inch of the copper pipe above the concrete. <S> Cut off the copper pipe maybe 1 foot higher than the concrete, and drop a copper repair coupler that doesn't have an internal stop onto the pipe and slide it down to the top of the concrete. <S> Next shorten the copper pipe enough to add a second copper coupler that does have internal stops. <S> Sand and flux the pipe. <S> Add the coupler, solder both couplers at the same time. <S> The first coupler seals the leak, and the second coupler is needed to repair the pipe after cutting it. <S> Make sure to sand and flux the inside of the couplers too. <A> The coupler idea in another answer is a good one. <S> If the leak is too close to the concrete surface so as to create an uncertain solder joint you can consider chipping out the concrete in a narrow ring around the pipe. <S> This could easily be 10 to 12 mm deep to allow the coupler to slide more past the leak. <A> Were it my house <S> I'd assume that the corrosion goes beyond what's visible . <S> I'd rent or borrow a concrete saw and cut out a 12" square of concrete around the pipe. <S> I'd then make suitable repairs with common copper parts (or PEX) and simply fill the opening with washed rock for a nice appearance and future access.
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If you decide to do this you must really clean all concrete that has adhered to the pipe and shine up the copper well so that the flux and solder will flow and adhere to the pipe and coupler. You can solder a copper repair coupler over the hole.
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What is the cause of wooden flooring gaps? We have gaps in our wooden birch floors. Some quite large. We are told that the cause of this was due to nail spacing and inadequate glue. I'm baffled as to why nailing and glue would prevent hardwood floors from shrinking and staying shrunk. We live in CO and had the floors acclimatize for 30 days before installing. Are there reports/tests that show that floor shrinkage is caused by incorrect nail spacing and insufficient glue - I can't find any... seems to be caused by the manufacturer not drying the wood sufficiently before production. <Q> Wooden floor gaps are usually caused by the change of temperature. <S> Wood has natural moisture so in the winter time, when the air is dry and homes are heated, it loses its moisture and shrinks. <S> Thus, the gaps. <S> Wait until the spring because they might expand back once they regain moisture. <S> To avoid dirt and gunk going in those gaps put a rope (natural not synthetic) in between. <S> If the gaps still show, you can apply wood fillers using your fingers or with a putty knife. <A> Some of those floors are better left to 'float', meaning that each board is not attached to the floor joist. <S> I have never glued tongue-and-groove flooring together. <S> The boards will shrink and expand according to temp and humidity. <S> The gaps will be larger when it is cold and when it is dry. <S> They will get smaller when it is humid and when it is warm. <S> If the gaps are too big when it is warm and humid, then I would loosen the nails, close the gaps, and just nail the perimeter. <S> Sometimes i add finish screws to attach squeaky boards more tightly to the subfloor <A> If they were installed in the summer after acclimating for 30 days, they probably needed to be installed tightly so when the humidity dropped in the winter and caused the wood to contract, the gaps would have been minimal. <S> Vice versa if they were installed in the opposite season. <S> Or the installer may have used incorrect fasteners to allow the wood to expand and contract with the grain of the wood. <S> The wood will move more on the long side edges (assuming the wood was cut correctly in the direction of the grain). <A> The flooring was probably mid-milled. <S> Wood flooring has to be cut, dried, accumulated, fit, nailed, etc. <S> perfectly or you’ll have big gaps. <S> Often the manufacturers point the finger at installers, when actually it’s their problem. <S> The way to check is to hold two boards up and push them together. <S> If one slips through then it’s too loose a fit between the tongue and groove. <S> There’s no amount of acclimation or nailing that can fix that. <S> We’ve had many gymnasiums floors removed and replaced because it doesn’t meet grade. <S> (You can see the manufacturers cry when it’s chainsawed out of there.) <S> Follow the Western Woods <S> Use Flooring guise (National guide). <S> Hint: test a zillion boards to make sure all the tongues fit tight in the grooves and doesn’t slip... <S> even if you shake the board while in the groove.
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If they are real wood planks, they may not have been installed tightly enough next to each other with an appropriate expansion gap along the walls.
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Can water supply lines touch or rest on each other? I have 2 bathrooms that share a wall on our 2nd floor. Both have independent supply lines for hot and cold for each bathroom. One of the hot water supply lines was inoperable so I capped it and added a T from the other hot water supply as shown here: Of course the hot water lines are on the outside of both sets of pipes and the sink drain in the middle. So, to be able to run the pex around the cold water supply and get it past the drain, it's resting against the cold water supply. As shown here: Is this against code? Can these pipes be touching and resting against each other? <Q> The only real issue is rattling noise due to vibration, or creaking due to thermal expansion. <S> In this case, since one pipe is plastic, it's probably not a concern. <S> I'd try to lighten the tension between them by flexing the plastic a bit, or place a rag between to act as a silencer. <A> I don't know about your local regulations, which you should look up yourself. <A> Get a u-shaped insulated bracket and screw it over the Pex to hold the pipe closer to the wall. <S> If there isn't enough room to do that, I'd run the pipe a different way.
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Be sure that by doing so you don't create a tight spot against the lumber, which can also cause noise. But, to avoid heat loss, I would wrap the new pipe with an insulating sleeve, or, install one that was pre-insulated.
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Adjustable-height, side-mount, heavy duty casters? Need to move a heavy air compressor I have this 900-lb air compressor on a wooden base I built. At the time I built it, I was able to move it around using a pallet jack. But now it's in a room that's too small to accommodate the pallet jack, and I'm looking for another way to maneuver it into position. An ideal solution would be a heavy-duty adjustable caster I could side-mount to the platform. I imagine something with a long, threaded stem and a hex head, and a beefy bracket that can accommodate lag screws into the side of this base. Then I could just use a wrench to lower them (thereby raising the platform), push it into position, then raise them back up to lower the compressor. But after an hour of googling, I haven't found anything sufficiently sturdy to do the job. In the photo you can just make out these three-wheeled dollies. I was going to try to jack it up onto those. They're only rated for 200 lb each, but I'm hoping they'll last long enough to let me put it in position. Beyond that, what suggestions do you fine folks have? (P.S.—I had a really hard time finding a tag for this post.) Update: I found something called a jacking caster. These are awfully expensive, but it's more-or-less what I was imagining. Update 2: Ah! Yes, searching for "jacking swivel caster" is yielding results: http://revvocaster.com/index.php/whats-your-application/40-jacking <Q> What about thinking above instead of to the side? <S> Attach the large casters to a hefty beam that extends wider than the base. <S> The casters would have to be taller than the current top of the base, or spacers added to the beam to make it thus. <S> The beam then hovers above the base, one beam per side, with long bolts, perhaps lag bolts extending through the beam. <S> As you tighten the bolts into the base, it is lifted from the floor. <S> This is a suggestion for a temporary transport, although it could be modified or left as-is for permanent movement options. <S> EDIT: <S> The reference to ten inches of air brought to my alleged mind a product known as an airbag lift: <S> Amazon link to airbag lift <S> The text references five hundred pound capacity (per bag) and a 3/32" thickness. <S> You'd have to use a bar to get that space in there, but it's less than an eighth of an inch and certainly doable. <S> Three inch lift capacity means you might have to step-lift your pallet, but you'd eventually get sufficient height to attach ordinary casters within your existing footprint. <S> US$28 isn't particularly expensive. <A> The downside is that they mount high, so you'd have to add (probably) a couple of 4x4s underneath or fab some fancy brackets. <S> Alternate, also budget unfriendly: Jessem alts caster set. <S> * <S> ** <S> Edit, just got info from Jessem, they said they don't know a max load rating, but have only tested to 75#/wheel, so this seems unsuitable... <S> Alternate-alternate, budget friendly but hard work <S> : get ~10" of air under the pallet (a bit of height at a time... <S> stack wood underneath... go to the other side... <S> stack <S> ... repeat) and attach regular casters. <A> The wooden base is awesome. <S> But you're making this harder than it is. <S> Get a piece of steel or aluminum L-girder, say 4" on a side. <S> You want it big enough for the casters to swivel, and bolt the casters to them. <S> Then, you either use lag screws, bolt-and-nut, or lag studs into the wood. <S> One high one, and 2-3 lower ones. <S> The lower holes should be slotted a bit. <S> Then you install at an angle and tighten up the bolts/screws. <S> Voilà. <S> I would have suggested jacking up the unit an inch or two to install the casters, but I presume you have already excluded that. <A> They allow you to have the unit on the ground until you need to move it, and then use your foot to push down on the caster to lower the wheel/raise the unit so it can be moved.
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These Workbench casters from Rockler are what you need. Better answer from fred_dot_u, but if you wanted to blow the budget, you can get side mount trailer jacks with wheels.
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When refinishing a hardwood floor do you need to strip off all of the old varnish? I’m refinishing my hardwood floors and some of the old varnish isn’t coming off. Before we apply a water based polyurethane do we need to remove all the old varnish or can some of it stay? Our floors are oak. <Q> You can test to be sure, but patchy leftover finish is likely to affect the uniformity of your new finish. <S> It's generally considered best practice to completely remove the old finish. <A> If water beads up on the finish, you simply can't leave it, for obvious reasons with a water-based poly. <S> Same with stain, if you're doing that, you won't want to stain some parts and not others (where the stain didn't take because of old finish). <S> If the pre-finished spots can take water without beading, then you don't have to remove it, especially if abraded. <S> The spots with old finish will likely appear darker than the bare wood. <S> How much darker it will look depends on a lot of factors. <S> If you are staining or just want a smooth finish and don't mind a more rustic look, such darkness might not matter to you. <S> If 90% of the floor is perfect (flat, clean, new-wood-like) and just a few spots are off, that's likely not going to look acceptable. <S> If the spots/streaks are well distributed and largely confined to individual boards, then it can look quite striking, as long as you're going for something more rustic that doesn't look brand-new. <S> you might try renting a floor buffer instead of a sander, and using a green pad with an 80 or 100 grit screen under it. <S> That should flex slightly to "scoop out" finish in any dips in the floor that your flat drum passed over. <S> It also strips finish very quickly compared to sanders and is often cheaper to rent, and the screens do a lot more area than sandpaper, so you save on supplies. <S> If the low-lying wood is in decent shape, and you remove the finish, it will look a lot like the parts you drum-sanded. <A> Sand more. <S> The leftover varnished areas will be a different colour and will look blotchy. <S> If you don't you will be unhappy with the results and will have remove the new and the stubborn old stuff. <A> You need a lower grit sandpaper then. <S> Theres no need to go to a higher grit sandpaper until the top layer of finish is removed. <S> The higher grits are to smooth out the wood fibers from the initial low grit paper. <S> I'm pretty sure I started with a 20 grit when I rented a drum sander to do my floors.
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You probably can leave it, but you might not want to, depending on what you're going for.
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How to wire 3 hots / 3 neutrals into this new TR outlet with 2 screws? I'm redoing some of the outlets in our house, as they are pretty loose. Some of these have been really easy, but I came across one today where there were 3 hots and 3 neutrals. All 3 were going into the quick-connects in a outlet which looks like this: Don't mind the destruction on the quick-connect in the picture, as I broke that taking the wires off and am not re-using this outlet. My new outlets look like: For my other installations I've been using the screws on the side rather than the quick-connects, but since I had 3 hots/3 neutrals I figured I'd try to put 4 on the screws and the other 2 in the little quick connect holes. However, this plan doesn't work because it seems that the wire is too large for the quick connect holes on my new outlets (maybe a 14 gauge vs 12 gauge difference? ) What do I do in this situation? Do I nut two of the hots and 2 of the neutrals together? If so, can I determine the exact type of nut I need with my wire stripper (AWG of the bare wire correspond to the gauge of the wire or do I need to include insulation?). Edit: A picture of the sides of the outlet I'm replacing, in which it looks like the tabs are present: <Q> Your two options here are to pigtail the hots and neutrals, or get a new "backwire" outlet. <S> This type of outlet might be sold as "heavy duty", but they are great for handling up to 4 conductors on each side. <S> The ground will still need to be pigtailed, but that's usually not a big deal. <S> Example outlet <S> If you look closely at that picture, you can see 4 holes in the back on each side. <S> Wire inserts straight into the holes and the screws on the side tighten the wire in clamps. <S> They are very similar to your old push-connect outlet, but they clamp tight on the wire. <S> Backwire outlets are great for smaller boxes because you don't need to worry about a couple 4-wire bundles of 12GA wire getting pushed into the box along with the outlet. <S> A pigtail is used where there are too many converging wires to be accommodated by a fixture, such as you describe here. <S> The converging wires, and another short length of similar wire (the pigtail), are twisted and secured by a wire nut. <S> This leaves you with a single lead to attach to the fixture. <S> (Added for completeness) <A> First, watch out for common gotcha's in changing outlets or switches. <S> If any receptacle tabs have been broken off, this is a whole different ballgame. <S> I am assuming you didn't mess with any of the other wires that were pushed back into the box and nutted to each other. <S> If you did, and especially if the receptacle has been split, one of the black/white pairs might be a switch loop , which would make a big mess. <S> You'll find out; ask further if you have any trouble. <S> Now if you look at the ground wire on the receptacle, you notice it is pigtailed . <S> That is, all the grounds from the cables join in a splice to a short wire that comes out to this receptacle. <S> The same thing can be done with hots and neutrals. <S> Obtain some wire (buying 2 feet of #12 Romex usually gets you plenty) and attach a white wire to a silver screw, and a black wire to a brass screw. <S> Then bring the outlet to the junction box and use 2 red wire-nuts to splice the black with the other blacks, and the white with the other whites. <S> See, what you're trying to do there is use the receptacle itself as a splice block to connect several other unrelated wires. <S> That's not mandatory at all; you can use a wire nut instead. <S> Now if you really want to use the receptacle as a splice block for up to 4 wires per side, look for "screw-to-clamp" type receptacles which permit that. <A> The best solution to this problem is to pigtail the outlet: wire-nut all three hots together with a new, short length of 12 gauge black wire, and then connect that to the outlet. <S> Do the same with the neutrals, using a short length of white. <S> Ground can be either green or bare. <S> As to which wire nut to use, that may vary a little based on brand, but usually it will be red. <S> If you're using Ideal wire nuts, you can check the size you need on this PDF . <S> For other brands, consult their instructions.
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A backwire outlet has small wire clamps on the sides of the outlet so the wire can be inserted straight in rather than looping around the screw.
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Is a ceiling fan box brace required? I am about to install a ceiling fan where there was only a simple light fixture before. The existing electrical box will be removed, and I will install this box in its place . This has me attaching the box directly to a single joist in the ceiling. I am not planning to use a brace to suspend the box between two joists. This is a relatively modern house from the 70s and the ceiling appears to be in good condition. I am wondering do I need to reinforce the joists at all or is this sufficient to hang a ceiling fan of average weight? <Q> Brace Yourself! <S> The problem is not the simple strength of the ceiling joists - we'll presume that even a single joist is strong enough to hold up a fan. <S> The problem is that a box next to a joist will not be stable enough to support a fan if it is only supported on one side. <S> A typical brace solves that problem. <S> An alternative is to place the box under a joist. <S> However, unless this is an open ceiling, that will (a) have the box dropping below the finished ceiling and (b) not look very nice. <S> So unless you really like a wobbling fan, use a brace: You also get the nice advantage of more flexibility for placement of the fan, though if you are making use of an existing hole in the ceiling then that is a non-issue. <A> That is a new-work box. <S> It is intended to be installed before drywall goes up. <S> It appears they are separable, e.g. for the purpose of accessing the mounting screws. <S> If you can find a way to install it exactly and fully as the instructions state, that would be fine. <S> Obviously that would involve some intricate "dental" work in close quarters that would be impossible if the box didn't separate, but the separation of box and bracket may allow that. <S> Do not do it wack-a-dack merely because doing it correctly is too hard -- that's what people are warning you off from. <S> However if you can do it as the box is intended to mount, then the box is literally built to work that way . <A> The description of this box does not state it can be installed through an existing hole in ceiling drywall. <S> It may be for installation before the ceiling drywall is in place. <S> If for some reason you cannot use a "brace" between two studs, you could use a saddle box around this stud and hang the fan directly under the stud. <S> The saddle box does not project past 1/2 inch drywall and is covered by the fan shroud. <S> You cut away the drywall to match the circular outline of the box and you would have to patch the old hole. <S> The saddle box itself does not hold the fan. <S> The fan support bracket is held by screws which go through the box and deep into the stud. <S> You would then have to patch the ceiling. <S> The probable best solution is the brace between two studs. <S> You could use this to patch the other side of the hole which may be covered by the shroud on the fan.
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The box on the brace might not be able to be positioned as close to the joist as the original box so you might have to cut away some drywall on the side of the existing hole away from the joist. However, I see two big bolts that appear to attach the box proper to its included bracket.
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What to use so concrete doesn't stick to plastic bucket? I'll be using regular plastic buckets to make some concrete planters, something like this. My goal is to reuse the buckets. The problem is that she sprayed each bucket (generously) with canola oil and non-stick oil, but the dry concrete stuck really well to the bucket. She ended up having to cut both buckets to remove the concrete planter. Is there anything I can spray the bucket with so that the plastic doesn't stick to the concrete? <Q> A simple solution I used once was a layer of cling film... <S> But you have to get it smooth... <S> Any imperfections may show. <A> A couple of days later I turned the buckets over and most of the pieces slid right out, the couple that had to be thumped got another coat of wax, this held up for 3 pours and that was all my wife needed. <A> We can't make specific product recommendations here, but you need to do a search for what's generically called " concrete release agent ". <S> It's usually a silicone based spray, but there are various types. <A> Liquid sprays that don't dry wouldn't survive the initial pour. <S> Something that they use on cars maybe? <S> Regular 5 gallon buckets have mostly parallel sides, so any bulging will make the concrete wider than the top and not want to come out. <S> You might want to check out getting different buckets too. <A> The guys that taught me volume concrete work just used diesel and water, or a light machine oil with a pump sprayer. <S> I certainly agree that the bucket will expand into a non-cylinder when you fill it, and sticking is not going to be the problem. <S> Unless you need to have the inside form exactly matching the bucket, maybe you should remove the inner bucket before it cures. <S> There will be slumping, but you may not care. <S> You probably should be putting a drain hole in the bottom anyway, and that would be a good opportunity to ram through a small rod to make a hole.
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Using solid vegetable shortening on the sides should make it stay there, otherwise you could use a liquid or solid wax that dries to a film. I found using car wax was a great way to get concrete to release from plastic buckets, I wiped it in the buckets and made the rounds with the patterns my wife asked for.
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Solar Power System Circuit Breaker and fuse Amps So the question is kinda part 2 of my question about the DC Output Today I went to Hellweg (It's like an Electronics shop in Germany/Europe). To buy a Circuit Breaker or Fuse (idk what I am looking for) for my solar system because I saw this pictures below: and Now My question is: What Fuse/Circuit size breaker do I buy? Because I went to Hellweg and there are like 1000 of them with different Apmps, Voltage, etc. Example below of Hellweg stuff: I have a 100 Watts Solar Panel, 50A Controller, Battery, etc. I read using a wrong circuit breaker and fuse will cause a fire. What size do I buy to make the my Solar Power System like the diagram? Updated with Specs: 1) Inverter: Aukey 1000 W 2) Solar Controller: Here 3) Battery: Solar battery 100 Ah C100 4) Solar Panels: One 100W PET Panel <Q> You'll need to read the specs of those breakers to see if any of them can play with DC. <S> For instance of many lines of breaker used in North America , precious few do (e.g. QO, but those only fit QO panelboards, they are not standard DIN rail like Euro panels). <S> Speaking of DIN rail, there are loads of designed-for-DC breakers, just at EE/design type electronics shops like Mouser, not home improvement stores (except for the odd nuts like QO). <S> Also given the loads you want to run, you should really seek ways to run these direct on 12V DC. <S> Inverting 12V DC to mains merely to power a wall-wart that makes 12V DC isn't even stupid . <S> For instance if your TV can't take 12v direct, loads of other TVs can... get one of those. <A> Some answers in here: <S> None of those Circuit Breakers are useful for this application, because they are from AC loads, not for DC loads. <S> You should use DC fuses which are common, or DC Breakers which are less common. <S> You have 12 AWG and 4 AWG, which have Allowable Ampacities close to 20A and 70A respectively, which would be a good starting idea for the fuses limits, for protecting the cables (only). <S> The Panel Fuses at the user end should be calculated according the circuits loads you are planning to install. <S> Just like any Panel. <S> If you want three circuits each with 5A each, you should then put three Fuses for 5A. <S> And you should consider most of the design criteria you apply for designing AC Panels in here (which ones?). <S> The Inverter converts the DC into AC, which is not what you are showing in the diagram. <S> I am actually not clear if you plan to supply DC or AC loads. <S> I see you don't have that issue clarified either. <S> As for any Panel, for those current levels, you will require specific component for interconnecting the equipment and protections. <S> Also I see you have not questioning about this. <S> Remember the specs for AC should not be necessarily the same for DC. <S> For 1W AC there are specific requirements. <S> As a final comment: Those current levels, without any experience, are like a suicide. <S> This requires minimum electrical knowledge in order to not killing yourself or anybody close to your system. <S> Your system omits all protection design. <S> It is like an open energized wire ready to be touched. <A> Pay attention closely to breaker specifications As it turns out, you don't need a fuse in the solar panel wiring provided you use adequately sized wire from the solar panel to the charge controller. <S> This is because solar panels are inherently current limited sources; in your case, your panel specifies an Isc of just under 6A, so it won't put more than that out, no matter what happens, meaning that 1.5mm2 wire is plenty adequate for the panel connections. <S> However, the battery wires are a different story. <S> A fully-charged lead acid battery can put out somewhere between 1000 and 5000A of short-circuit current, and you will need breakers or fuses that can handle such a fault at 12VDC. <S> This means that you will need to check the specifications for the breakers you want to use; not only will you need a 50A and a 100A breaker, these breakers will need to have a minimum of a 5kA interrupting rating at >16VDC. <S> As to wire sizing, you'll need some fairly thick wires for the charge controller and the inverter. <S> 10mm2 is a reasonable size for the wiring from the charge controller to the battery; however, you'll want to increase that all the way to 35mm2 for the wiring from the battery to the inverter as the inverter can pull much more current than the charge controller provides. <S> You also may need to use fine stranded wire for the connections to the battery to avoid putting mechanical strain on the battery posts, which requires its own precautions for making good connections (such as using compression lugs instead of mechanical setscrews). <S> You'll also want to connect the negative post of your battery to an earth ground stake, or use two-pole breakers if you want to leave it floating. <S> Don't get gassed! <S> A vented-type lead-acid battery, like yours likely is, releases highly flammable hydrogen gas during the charging process. <S> This means that you will need to make sure that the battery lives in a quite well-vented space so that hydrogen can't accumulate and ignite.
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Some IEC-style breakers are DC rated, but not all , so you must check the specifications for the breakers you want to use.
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What should I do with leftover mud? I always find myself holding a pan with one inch of leftover mud when I need to stop and come back later. Once I just left my taping knives in the pan. Big mistake. When I came back 4 hours later in the afternoon, both of my new knives were rusted over. Now I try to wipe the knives clean before I call it a day, but what should I do with leftover mud? I thought I could add a bit water and mix well to make it last longer, but so far the result has been disappointing. I always come back to a pan of crusty compound. Even if I then add more water to revive the mud, I get a lumpy and unusable result. What do people do with leftover mud when they need to call it a day? Dump it? I did that a couple of times. It takes a lot of time and paper towels to get the mud out of the pan and give the pan a rough scrub. It seems a hassle and a waste especially when I plan on coming back to the project in a couple hours. <Q> Do not leave mud in a pan. <S> If it's powdered setting type from a bag, throw the used mud in the bin, then clean your tools. <A> Pull your knives out of it and cover it with Saran Wrap (plastic cling wrap) right down on the mud (no air) and it will be fine when you get back. <S> Note - this works for premix drywall mud, I don't think it will work for "hot" mud... <A> The plaster dries or sets due to a chemical reaction, trying to "revive" it by adding more water leads to lumps as you say. <S> The only thing I find is when I am close to an enforced break then I make smaller amounts <S> so I don't have the excess as waste, but having to make more often is the trade-off. <A> " It takes a lot of time and paper towels to get the mud out of the pan and give the pan a rough scrub. " <S> Don't worry about thoroughly cleaning it. <S> Just fill it with water and <S> whatever is left stuck to the pan won't dry out. <S> Similarly, if you have a half-used bucket of pre-mix that you aren't going to be using again in the near future, you can prevent the surface from crusting over by smoothing out the top layer and then covering it with an inch of water. <S> Avoid any stirring or shaking and the water will remain as a separate clean layer that can be poured off the next time you want to use it.
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If it's premixed mud, just put it back in the bucket, put the lid back on, then clean your tools.
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Connect neutrals together in 3-gang box (load side) with 3x 3-way switches? I have 2x 3-gang boxes, each with 3x 3-way switches in each box. All are on the same 15A breaker. I have wired them together and I'm just connecting the switches now. I have: -------- ---------BREAKER --14/2-- |3x-3WAY| --3x14/3-- |3x 3-WAY| ---3x14/2-- LIGHTS --------- --------- The 3-gang boxes are connected with 3 runs of 14/3 cable. My question is: should I splice the neutrals together (and the grounds) at the second 3-gang box (load side)? It seems like it doesn't matter, since they could just as well be going to 3x 1-gang boxes on the load side in which case they would NOT be connected. To clarify - I'm not asking if I should connect neutral to ground (I know I shouldn't do that). I'm asking if I should connect all the neutrals together and pigtail off that or just treat each switch independently on the load side. Is there a standard way to do it? <Q> Neutral is not ground <S> Neutral is the normal path of current return. <S> Ground is an emergency path, only used if something is seriously wrong (in lieu of sending power through a human, and it helps to get breaker to trip). <S> Because of that, it's OK to spiderweb all grounds to each other. <S> This should never be done with neutral . <S> Currents must be equal in each cable or conduit <S> Because AC current in wires causes AC magnetism, and the wires' magnetism must cancel each other out. <S> If it doesn't, it will cause eddy current heating, and noise/vibration leading to fatigue, breakage and arcing, both of which can start fires. <S> It's a lot to sort out. <S> Mark the wires. <S> They sell 5-packs of colored electrical tape for about $5 at the hardware store. <S> Typically blue red yellow green white. <S> So you might do something like this in box 1 <S> and this in box 2 <S> * <S> The neutrals will be a wire from each cable that need be wire-nutted; I simply didn't bother drawing the wire nuts. <S> Note how the 2 travelers are color coded the same. <S> That is because there is no need to distinguish travelers from each other. <S> I also spiraled the travelers' markings quite some distance, but the switched-hot only the width of the tape. <S> Now that looks super clear on the drawing, however in the box, things may be so confusing you need to mark the neutrals too. <S> But you cannot use red, yellow or blue (hot colors) on a neutral wire, or you will inadvertently redefine it as a "hot" wire , which is wrong. <S> White, gray and green don't have that problem. <S> They won't redefine a hot because you're not allowed to redefine a hot to a neutral or ground. <S> White and gray are neutral colors, and green won't redefine a neutral to ground, because that's not allowed either. <S> So brace for an argument with the inspector, but <S> I say using white, gray or green on both hot and neutral does not change the purpose of the wire, therefore is only marking for identification . <A> Another good reason for that would be that at some time in the future it may be desirable to bring an alternate power feed to the first switch bank location to feed one lighting circuit separately. <S> You do not want to intermix the neutrals from two separate circuits. <A> Conduit...on the cheap! <S> One of the great advantages of the conduit systems used for industrial and institutional wiring is the ability to wrangle complex wire runs like the situation between your two switch boxes without having to worry about mixing up wire colors, retagging wires, or splitting neutrals up on the same circuit. <S> However, typical metal conduit is expensive and requires special tools and skills to install, so it's not used in residential wiring unless called for by local Code provisions or the need to run wiring in unfinished areas. <S> Still, this does not mean we cannot take advantage of conduit's pros here. <S> One relatively little known fact is that ENT ("smurf tube") is legal to use for mains wiring, not just telecom/datacom work. <S> A 1/2" ENT can be run and fished with little difficulty compared to a bundle of NM cables, and then you can pull individual stranded THHN wires through it, giving you the ability to put in exactly the wires you need without much more cost or work over having to wrangle 3 different NM cables with the perils of duplicate neutrals and crossed travelers that entails. <S> (For instance, you could use two wires each in yellow, blue, and pink.)
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If you have an electrical box at the second switch bank location with enough cubic inch volume you should really keep each circuit separate (i.e. not inter tie the neutrals). In your case, I would take that 1/2" ENT and run in it a 14AWG bare ground, a 14AWG white neutral, and 3 14AWG traveler pairs, with both travelers in each pair the same color, which can be any color other than white, grey, or green. The primary reason is that you want the current in the hot line (in this case the travellers) and the neutral of each cable to be the same.
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How to cut stainless steel sheet without burning it? I need to cut out a small section of 1.5mm Stainless steel. Before, when I've made cuts I have used an angle grinder and its resulted in thr stainless becoming scorched/burnt and I can't remove it. What can i do to cut stainless steel and not have scorch marks? <Q> As you have implied, heating the metal is actually changing it near the cut and causing it to discolor. <S> There's not soot or anything you can clean off - <S> the metal is changed. <S> The other choice is to cut the metal without heat. <S> Angle grinders don't really cut - they sand their way through the metal creating a massive amount of heat. <S> One tool that actually cuts through the metal is known as a "nibbler". <S> They come in many forms. <S> Hand operated, air powered, electric, and as a small attachment for an electric drill. <S> They are basically a small punch that nibbles of small bits of metal. <S> They do this very quickly so the result looks like a straigt cut. <S> The issue is that many of the tools that I found top at at 16ga (1.5875mm) or 14ga (1.984375mm) sheet metal. <S> Your 1.5mm sheet is going to be at the top end of their capabilities, but if you choose a quality tool and don't try to move too fast, I think you'll be ok. <A> The trick with an angle grinder is not to try to cut the metal with one pass. <S> That way, you are wasting the wheel and effectively heating up the metal, causing distortion and discoloration. <S> The best way to cut with an angle grinder is to do so in multiple passes, and using the bottom part of the wheel to cut. <S> For example, if you are cutting a straight cut on a flat sheet of metal, say 6" long, place the angle grinder on your cutting line, and let the weight of your hand only carry the grinder forward those 6". <S> After that, lift the grinder, and go back to the beginning and use that "track" you just built as your guide, and slowly keep cutting it that way. <S> This way, you will use much less off your wheel, (which you will notice by the reduced smell and dust in the air), you will cut with minimal discoloration, minimal heat, which will also extremely minimize distortion on thinner gauges metals. <S> If you still have minimal discoloration you need removed, you can use things such as Zep Polish or a Scotch Brite pad , specially on #4 finish stainless, for example. <A> You can cut a stainless steel metal sheet without the burn marks by using a circular saw. <S> It is a handheld saw with a circular blade. <S> Make sure to match the blade with the thickness of your stainless steel sheet (preferably a diamond saw blade because it is stronger than any other circular blades). <S> Make sure to securely clamp your sheets on a working table to be able to cut it precisely without moving.
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You may be able to sand off the surface of the metal near the cuts to remove the discolored metal on the surface, but this will lead to a cut that doesn't look very clean and some discoloration may remain.
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Can I split the feed to a duplex 20 amp receptacle from different capacity circuits? Is it possible to split-feed a 20 Amp receptacle with one receptacle using 15amp and the other 20amp circuits? <Q> That way, the outlet will be safe to work on. <S> source: <S> The Spruce <S> To my knowledge, handle-tied double breakers with different current ratings don't exist. <S> However, as ThreePhaseEeel points out, you may be able to find UL listed handle-ties for your breaker brand. <S> This would require that they be mounted adjacent. <A> I'll be darned. <S> You can do it. <S> The crux of the issue is supplying a 20A NEMA 5-20 receptacle (T-shaped neutral) on a 15A breaker. <S> Since you will only have one socket on the entire circuit, this applies. <S> 210.21(B)(1) <S> Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. <S> A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit. <S> So a solitary socket on a 15A circuit must be at least 15A. <S> What if the circuit had more than one socket? <S> However, if this 20A circuit supplied other receptacles, then you wouldn't have a solitary outlet. <S> Table 210.21(B)(3) would apply, and 15A receptacles would be allowed on a 20A circuit -- but 20A receptacles would not be allowed on a 15A circuit . <S> How do you breaker this thing? <S> Because you have a single yoke with two separate circuits on it, the circuits must have common maintenance shutoff . <S> Having two breakers with different values can be accomplished by using individual 1-pole breakers and identified (listed) <S> handle ties . <A> Isherwood raises the most relevant point I think, but another issue is that you would only be able to use an outlet (with the tabs removed) with maximum 15A rating. <S> This pretty much negates any advantage of having a 20A circuit (presumably with 12G wire run) anyway.
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Or you could reduce the 20A circuit to 15 Amps and use the same wire. No, you can't feed a split receptacle from circuits with differently-sized breakers. Here's why: You can, but you have to meet certain conditions: The National Electrical Code now requires that the two hot wires in a split receptacle must be connected to a double-pole circuit breaker, so that when the breaker is shut off, the action will automatically disconnect both receptacles.
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Rafter above location for light, exterior light box choice Retrofitting from knob and tube. One location has a rafter directly above where the light should go (and currently is). The ceiling is 3/4 in beadboard. Can I use a 4 inch pan box cut in to the beadboard, and then a junction box above and next to the rafter for the wiring? Should the bottom of the pan box be flush to the bottom of beadboard? <Q> This provides adequate space for splicing while allowing easy access to all the wiring here just by dropping the fixture. <A> You cannot use another box behind a pancake box. <S> You could cut a hole in the beadboard and mount the pancake box to the joist or you could surface mount the pancake box on the beadboard and mount the fixture to that. <S> The edge of the pancake box is only 1/2 inch will not show very much. <S> You could minimize that by painting the edge the same color as the beadboard. <A> Thanks for all your comments. <S> Not enough time to get right back to you. <S> Wish I had stated in the first post that there is an attic <S> and it is accessible. <S> For most of the lights I had planned on using a Carlon old work box. <S> B618R. <S> For several reasons I was just going to run power (14/2) between each light box and drop a single 14/2 romex to each switch. <S> Fishing the wire to each switch isn't that easy, so It just make sense to run the power light to light in the attic. <S> Yes the pancake box will be accessible from the home and the junction box for this one light accessible in the attic. <S> There is a ton of blown in insulation that I've cleared away at each of the old lights and switch areas. <S> So I calculate 6 wires x 2, plus ground wires, plus internal clamps = <S> 6 <S> + <S> 1 <S> + 1= 8 * 2" = 16in <S> The box is 18 in3. <S> But for the one described above I will have a junction box maybe mounted on top of the joist then run the single switched power romex to the pancake box mounted on the joist. <S> I saw another box that can mount partially on the side of the joist, but it's only 12 cubic inches, to I can't make up the connections inside it anyway. <S> I guess the other questions are about protecting the romex and if the one (or more) junction boxes I use gets covered with insulation. <S> The way I understand it within 6-7 ft of the attic access <S> And I don't think it matters if anything gets covered with insulation as long as it's accessible if one moved away the insulation. <S> I'll obviously map out the install and might even put some colored flags hanging from the rafters where the lighting/junction boxes are.
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The pancake box is low volume but it has enough volume for a single cable to connect to a light fixture. So each light box will have power coming and going and the wire to the light. I'd use a saddle box instead Instead of trying to cobble together something out of two different boxes, raising issues of access to the upper box, I would use a saddle box that fits around the rafter instead, as shown below (photo for exposition only). the wiring should be protected (no permanent stairs or ladder).
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Does unblocking power bar outlets through short extension cords increase fire risk? Power supply units are often large relative to the outlet and block access to adjacent outlets in a power bar. A simple solution is to use 1/2 ft or 1 ft (15cm, 30cm) power extension cords to keep all outlets in a power bar available. Yet my hunch tells me that doing so increases the fire risk. Could someone with actual knowledge in the matter pitch in with an opinion? Does unblocking power bar outlets through short extension cords increase fire risk? I am not considering an exotic setup (daisy chaining, forking, etc..), nor will the wattage be high (laptop and paraphernalia, at most a stereo amplifier in one slot). The question is whether this increases the risk of fire. The idea is that there are now many more places where rust, or just a poor contact, will happen. And rust/poor contacts cause heat that can spiral to something sinister. Update I marked Isherwood's answer right, but thanks to Harper's and Owain's answers I see now that there is an abundance of options to avoid even a small increase in risk. One key keyword is "metal". Search, for example, for "metal power strip" to see ones where right angle plugs will not occlude adjacent outlets. Some have a larger inter-outlet spacing. The challenge is find one not painted yellow. <Q> Yes, but negligibly. <S> The question is how much , and the answer is not much . <S> Since you already probably have dozens of such connections in your home (including such high-current things as a microwave and kitchen range), and since most of these are low-current devices, I see no reason to be concerned. <S> One caveat would be the potential for heat buildup around the transformers. <S> They're normally held captive by wall outlets or power bars and not likely to end up in a heap on the carpet. <S> In combination, many transformers without good cooling airflow could overheat. <S> Don't let that situation arise. <S> Make sure all hardware is in good working order and be happy. <A> In fact, there are UL-listed power strips that provide an octopus of short cords-on-sockets. <S> (by the way it was hell to find a genuine UL-listed unit of good provenance from Stanley; most of the Amazon listings are cheap Cheese junk off the Amazon marketplace.) <S> It depends If it's blocky because it's a wall-wart style transformer, then normal loads simply won't allow it to get warm enough. <S> Wire/adapter/bad connection heat is a function of appliance power squared , so a 1000 watt air conditioner makes 10,000 times the wiring heat as a 10-watt power block. <S> That's how it's possible to sell the total junk often seen on BigClive etc. <S> However, if it's blocky for some other reason, like an in-cord GFCI for a heavy draw appliance like an air conditioner or hair dryer, that's a no-go. <S> Don't even connect such a load to a power strip in the first place - it should only go either a) direct into the receptacle, or b) straight from the receptacle to the appliance via a 1-socket heavy 12 AWG appliance-grade extension cord. <S> Quick test question: Which draws more power: a 75 pound, 10,000 BTU wall air conditioner? <S> Or a common hair dryer? <S> The air conditioner is typically 800 to 1200 watts. <S> The hair dryer, like most cheap resistive-heat appliances, is almost always 1500W or more. <S> Both are too large for power strips. <S> Point being, a "high power" appliance isn't necessarily obvious. <S> A good measure, though, is they make a fair bit of heat. <A> They also tend to have better quality contacts than the cheap multi-way strips. <S> from <S> https://olsondirect.co.uk/oldsite/13a_standard_flat.htm <S> They also do USA standard ones, eg https://olsondirect.co.uk/oldsite/usa_15amp.htm <A> An alternative solution for your photograph is to use a single larger+higher capacity PSU and connect the low power devices directly. <S> A lab power supply would be ideal and can be set to a variety of voltages, but generally only one, maybe two voltages, so don't connect 5V and 12V things to the same line. <S> They're expensive, so a DIY solution is to convert an ATX PSU from a computer to a bench power supply. <S> Example: and an index of projects at <S> https://www.instructables.com/id/Encyclopedia-of-ATX-to-Bench-Power-Supply-Conversi/ <S> You could simply replace multiple USB chargers with a single USB power supply, like this 10 port charger: <S> capable of 9 devices at a time plus a QC port to charge a laptop at 60W, or something smaller like : <S> capable of 4 devices at a time. <A> As other answers state, the extensions shouldn't add any significant fire risk. <S> For that to be true, however, each extension cord should be rated for (at least) the maximum current allowed by the upstream breaker! <S> (or the power strip's breaker, if it has one). <S> A standard, lower-price extension cord may be #16AWG, which is rated for 10A. Your wall outlet is likely rated for 15A (in the USA, at least). <S> If you went with the 10A cords, and an end device draws 15A, the cord could melt and catch fire without the breaker being tripped. <S> This may happen because of an electrical fault, or because you plugged in a higher-power device. <S> So, ideally, you should check your breaker. <S> If it is 15A, go with #14AWG extension cords. <S> If it is 20A, choose #12AWG cords. <S> Short #12AWG cords may be hard to find, and expensive :) <A> The use of short extension cords is an acceptable solution, but not a particularly good one. <S> To avoid any increase, however small, in fire risk, replace the power strip instead of augmenting it. <S> There are power strips on the market that solve this problem by providing more space between outlets, which is often necessary for the rather narrow NEMA 5-15R connector. <S> While shopping for an improvement, there are a few more questions to ask to make this a long(er)-term solution: <S> How many power adapters can fit side-by-side? <S> What is the surge suppression rating? <S> The values on the market range from 300 to 4500 Joules. <S> Does the power strip dissipate energy just between L and N, or also between L and G, and between N and G ( "Mode 1" or "Mode 2" )? <S> Did the power strip pass UL 1449, or another reputable certification? <S> Is the casing made of plastic or metal? <S> Is the power strip made by a reputable manufacturer?
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The problems of 'greedy' power supplies can be resolved by using power bars which have proper individual sockets for each position. Any connection increases fire risk by increasing the chance of heat buildup due to resistance, sparks due to arcing, etc.
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Is it safe to daisy-chain power bars (power strips)? So, is it safe to plug a power bar in to another power bar that is connected to a power source? I don't really want to try it, as if it is unsafe, then I don't really want to try it. <Q> Yes but only if the total power drawn is less than the rated capacity of the source and the ratings of the power bars. <S> So you cannot exceed the power rating of source, bar 1 or bar 2. <S> I thought this was worth a diagram: <S> I assumed 15A just as an example, respect the ratings and regulations for your locality. <S> I also assumed all bars and source are rated at 15A... <S> If bar 1 is only rated at 10A then that is the limit so the bottom 3 examples will have to change so that the bar 2 uses less... <A> So if you want to plug in a bunch of wall-warts and cell phone chargers and maybe a PC, that is fine. <S> However if you have any sort of high-current (high heat making) appliance like a big gaming PC, laser printer, air conditioner, floor heater, you name it, then you should definitely avoid it unless you are using a very high quality strip like Tripp-Lite. <S> For those appliances, run a quality extension cord straight from the receptacle. <S> (you can't have 2+ of them on a circuit anyway). <A> No, it is not. <S> This violates safety regulations. <S> These devices are only approved to provide power to a specific number of electrical appliances, and daisy chaining them increases that number and creates a potential fire risk. <S> Here's a document prepared for US Congress by their Office of Compliance explicitly stating this, and here's an IEEE document that discusses daisy chaining extension cords.
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It really, really depends on the loads involved (in amps), and you shouldn't be anywhere near the nameplate rating of these power strips, because they are oh, so very cheaply made. Additionally, you shouldn't daisy chain them with extension cords, either, because that is also a risk.
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Connecting water tankers at different levels I have 2 water tanks installed in my 3 story building. 1st one is on top of the 3rd floor, the other one is on top of 2nd. The pump is installed at Ground Floor. Now I made one outlet at 800 lts of 3rd Floor tank of 1000 lts capacity as inlet for 2nd floor tank. However the pressure was very low and before 2nd floor tank filling, 3rd floor tank was getting overflowed. How to address this problem <Q> The solution is to mount the tanks so the filled surface of each tank is or will be at the same level. <S> That means some tanks will be mounted on supports at different heights to others. <S> if These tanks are to stay on separate floors, then the second floor tank will need a one way connection to the outlet to stop the top tank filling it. <S> Both tanks need a fill control valve. <A> Can you make the lower tank pressure-tight? <S> Make two connections, one connecting the bottom of each tank, and this should be large enough for water to move - it is the water pipe. <S> The other connects the top of each tank, and is to prevent vapor-lock of the lower tank, this line can be quite small. <S> The lower tank will now be 100% full and under pressure , which may help your pressure problem. <S> Its pressure will benefit from the "head" up to the upper tank. <S> "head" is the weight of the water above the tap. <A> Read this answer for a description of a similar installation. <S> The best mitigation for this problem is to replace the line between the tanks with a much larger pipe. <S> Since the drain should begin to operate as soon as the water level reaches it, there is almost no pressure available to drive the flow. <S> The drain pipe should look like a drain pipe, not like a fill pipe. <S> Either use a smaller pump, or install a gate valve or globe valve in the fill line. <S> (Do not use a ball valve, these are hard to adjust.) <S> In short, to avoid flooding, you can make the drain larger or make the fill smaller. <S> If you don't mind making your project more complicated, you can install a safety cutoff float valve in the upper tank. <S> This switch must trip at a level above the drain but below the top of the tank. <S> The pump must stop when the safety switch is raised. <S> It will start again when the drain has caught up.
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Another mitigation is to restrict the pump flow to something the drain can handle.
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Suggestions on where to start hardwood flooring I will soon be ready to start laying hardwood in a bedroom - outlined below. The boards will run parallel to the walls with the doors (joists run perpendicular to those walls). The hallway outside the "door to hall" (and adjoining room) will have the same hardwood installed later this year. I feel I should start on either the wall with the bathroom door or at the door to the hallway. Should I start on the wall with the bathroom door and reverse direction to work the little square back to the hallway door? I know there is a chance that they aren't completely parallel - but the area with the door to the hall isn't lit very well, so an "adjustment" wouldn't be as noticeable. Should I rip a piece to use as a threshold there or just use the whole board (if I can) since more hardwood will be installed later? <Q> That means they can only be laid in one direction. <S> The only place you can really start is going to be the top-left corner of your picture, and then move left to right and down towards the bottom. <S> If you start at the bottom, you can only move up, and that will cause you to have a transition strip of some sort in the doorway to the hall when you continue the flooring later. <S> When you stop in the doorway, rip a board to act as a "cap" for the edge of the last whole board. <S> When you're ready to continue, remove the ripped board to reveal a nice, protected groove to work with. <A> Is this "Hardwood" or laminate type engineered hardwood? <S> True hardwood, you start at the farthest corner and work your way out, either left->right or right->left. <S> Laminate woods, you would start any way you like, however, most people start in a corner and work their way out to the next room, this way you don't have as many transitions. <S> This is for aesthetic reasons, and to "form" a room. <S> If you plan to continue later and it is real hardwood, you would stop at the door and protect the last board, or not nail it down. <S> Laminate flooring is generally a floating floor. <S> Some people will nail it down in certain areas, edges and thresholds, etc. <S> You need to read what the manufacturer suggests as the longest run without a joint. <S> Some <S> it is basically a 14x14 room that you can lay and then must install an expansion joint. <S> Some newer floors allow almost an entire home without joints. <A> They'll put a backer board, and push up against that until the floor is complete, then cut a few boards to fit under the baseboards. <S> This is similar to how tile floors are laid out. <S> As to which direction, it probably doesn't matter all that much. <A> Thanks all for the info and suggestions. <S> I am laying 3/4" T&G solid Hickory. <S> I will start at the back/exterior wall and work my way toward the walls with the doors - measuring carefully to make sure I don't end up at the bathroom door with a sliver or some kind of weird situation at the hallway door. <S> I am hoping the room is more square than it is flat (the subfloor has a few low spots I am working to fill in to bring it to tolerance). <S> As long as it looks straight when I walk in the door from the hallway - all is good - fortunately I have a nice table saw in case I need to rip some boards at angles for the row up against the exterior wall. <S> Thanks again!
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This would then allow you to add on to the flooring to make it look like one solid floor surface, you may still want a threshold at the doors, again to "form" rooms. Hardwood floors either have click-lock grooves or basic tongue and groove, but they all share that same basic idea. Looking at my own room, the boards were laid perpendicular to the entrance door, but I don't see much particular advantage in that. If you don't cap it off, the edge will get damaged because it's thinner because of the tongue and groove. Ideally, you want a transition from hall to bedroom, bedroom to bathroom. Many people will assume that walls aren't straight and either start in the middle or a few inches away from the wall.
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How often should alkaline batteries be checked when they are in a device? I have the problem of leaving alkaline batteries in various devices, and have lost some I could not clean with vinegar. If I don't use the device, I take the batteries out. But a lot of devices are used frequently. To avoid leakages, how often should the batteries be checked, and how should they be checked? <Q> You don't need to check devices used frequently Because you will soon notice that the device has gone inoperative, and will simply change the batteries at that point. <S> What gets 'ya is devices you rarely use. <S> One option is to use rechargeable batteries in those rarely used devices, which is to say NiCd or NiMH batteries. <S> They will still discharge, however they won't be damaged by doing so. <S> In fact, NiCds and NiMH's normally self-discharge over time, so if left in a drawer for a year, they will be fully discharged within 90 days and spend 275 days in a fully discharged state, without taking any damage. <S> Obviously after 90 days the device will not be usable and you'll have to take the batteries out and charge them; but you use them rarely anyway. <S> If you need to have your rarely-used devices "ready and good to go", then my advice is to use primary cells (non-rechargeable), and change batteries annually. <S> Don't throw out the old batteries; just demote them to frequently used appliances. <A> Alkaline batteries should only leak once they go flat or are physically damaged. <S> Basic info here . <S> More info here . <S> So the trick is to remove batteries as soon as they are flat or almost flat (below ~0.9V per cell). <S> If you can't tell when they're flat (i.e. no multi-meter available) it is best to follow the advice of some manufacturers who recommend removing batteries whenever not in use. <S> Another alternative would be to use the Lithium-Iron Disulfide type as these don't leak or dry out like alkaline cells, and they have much better shelf life and temperature tolerance and roughly double the energy density, don't produce hydrogen in sealed enclosures (like dive lights) when abused (so consequently your dive lights won't explode). <S> They are made by Energizer under the "Energizer Lithium" label typically, or by GP in China (equally good in my opinion). <S> They have higher initial voltage (~1.8V) than alkalines typically. <S> A company I used to work for shipped around 300000 of these per annum with almost no problems, as compared to alkalines which caused countless headaches for support staff. <A> This is opinion, so I'd be interested if anyone has a more factual answer. <S> The problem is that battery manufacturers don't admit to their cells leaking. <S> They say they do not leak, and don't say things like "Won't leak for at least 5 years!". <S> So, when to check comes down to "how important is the device". <S> If it's very important, use a big name brand battery and simply replace the batteries once a year. <S> Use the time change or New Years or some big even to remind yourself. <S> Regardless of how much is left in the batteries, replace them. <S> You can have a box for the partially depleted batteries and <S> you can re-use them in high-drain devices if you don't want to waste any power. <S> Leaking is very unpredictable. <S> I've seen it happen in less than a year with generic batteries <S> and I've also found a 15 year old CD player with good batteries that still powered on the display! <A> "I could not clean with vinegar" - yeah, <S> I bet not; that's not casuistic enough nor even on my list: spray can of contact cleaner, rubber eraser, or sandpaper... <S> after cutting the excess crud off with a knife or scraping it with a flathead - try not to damage the plating, but if you have to take it down to bare copper, so be it. <S> 'I opened a device right away after it had quit working, and the battery had already leaked.' <S> - that's going to happen once in a while. <S> See above. <S> The only thing I check batteries for is charge. <S> [insert rant about how you're supposed to remove them, which none of us do]. <S> If they're dead and leaked, it's time to change them and clean the contacts; simple as that.
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You can't tell that a battery is about to leak, so the only way to prevent it is to cycle them out.
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Should I put a surge protector on a washer or dryer? I think the question title says it all, but is there a reason that I should or should not put a surge protector on my washer or dryer? Growing up, I don't recall ever seeing them in my parents' house nor at laundromats. But given that this is a several hundred dollar appliance, I'm not sure why these aren't protected by a surge protector. <Q> If they have the simple electromechanical timers, there's not much that can be damaged by 'reasonable' surges - damage from a lightning strike on your line wouldn't be stopped by a surge protector. <S> Electronic controls typically do have a surge protector built onto the board, so there's no need for an external one. <A> A surge protector can protect from surges from: Motors or other large devices Lightning <S> Incoming power problems <S> A washer or dryer is actually more likely to cause <S> the first category of problems than to be harmed by it. <S> That still leaves open the question of lightning or other external problems. <S> As a general rule, the protection from a surge protector is primarily for sensitive electronics. <S> Historically, washers and dryers had very simple electromechanical timers. <S> Many newer appliances do have sophisticated electronics - e.g., if your appliance can communicate via WiFi then it has, essentially, a computer inside that could use protection. <S> I certainly wouldn't put a washer or dryer on a typical $10 - $25 basic surge protector. <S> (Actually, for an electric dryer that wouldn't even be an option, but for the major appliances where it is possible, I still wouldn't do it.) <S> I would consider a whole-house surge protector as an option. <S> I am skeptical (most of my experience being with the very logical "load plugged directly into a surge protector") of a whole-house surge protector providing the same level of protection as point-of-use surge protectors, but it should still provide significant protection, and do so for everything in the house, including major appliances. <A> First, if by "surge suppressor you mean power strip or some sort of plug-in dingus, those kinds of cheapies are Right Out . <S> They are way too flimsy to carry the power for a major appliance. <S> They also shouldn't be used with air conditioners, microwaves or any heat making appliance. <S> They do make some commercial-grade plug-ins (e.g. Tripp-Lite), and you can also use units intended for "whole house surge suppression" on a major appliance, simply by locating it near the appliance instead of at the main panel. <S> You should know that electric dryers have only a big resistor across the 240V poles. <S> Their motors and electronics sit between one of the poles and neutral. <S> That is the only place you really need a surge suppressor. <S> It can be a good idea to put a surge suppressor on appliances which are a source of noise and spikes. <S> A washer and dryer are definitely two of them.
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However, it is also quite possible that the heavy electrical loads, particularly from an electric dryer, may stress the protective electronics in a surge protector quite a bit.
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How much water for mixing with concrete? I bought a bag of quikrete mason mix for creating some planters from molds. The wood panel molds look something like this, but the spacing is a bit narrower and they're smaller: Since I'll be pouring the mixture into a mold, I would prefer the mixture to be as "liquid" as possible without it affecting the integrity of the mold. Question: how much water should I mix the concrete with so it pours without issue? The more "watery" the mixture, the easier it would be for me. Also, the pots are square at about 14" per side, so it's not like they need to be super strong. <Q> Concrete is strongest when the mix is as dry as possible, and weaker when the mix is wetter. <S> A highly liquid mix is therefore almost always a bad idea. <S> This is well understood/ documented /tested in the industry, tends to be poorly understood by homeowners and some of the less educated pros. <S> Likewise, the importance of plenty of water for the curing process after the concrete has set is well understood by industry and poorly by most of the same people. <S> On a larger scale it's practical to use air-entraining (bubble/foam) admixtures that help the concrete flow as if it was wetter, but which do not impact the strength so much (and actually help with things like freeze/thaw cycles.) <S> On a small scale that's not very practical (AFAIK nobody sells a tiny packet of foam precursor) but vibration is highly applicable - shake, tap, hammer on the outside of the mold, pick it up and drop it a short distance, and rod (literally run a rod up and down inside the forms to distribute) <S> the concrete inside it. <S> On larger jobs a vibrating thing to insert in the concrete can be rented, but not likely to be useful here (too big.) <S> Note that mortar (what you show a bag of) is not concrete, precisely. <S> The linked wikipedia article sugges a ratio of weight of water to "cementitious material" (which is only a fraction of your bagged pre-mix, with the rest being aggregate, primarily sand in mortar mix) of 0.45 to 0.60 <A> Here are some thoughts, not exactly addressing what you ask, but which may help you succeed. <S> Ecnerwal's point that you want concrete, not mortar, is a good one. <S> Read the concrete bag. <S> I think it will recommend a minimum 3" thickness, which it does not look like you have. <S> Maybe you can make it work anyway, but understand it's not a recommended practice to make it thinner. <S> Getting rid of voids in a small space like that will be a challenge. <S> If you are going into production, get a mini-vibrator. <S> If not, work in maybe 2" layers, using a rod or stick to thorougly jiggle the air pockets out of what you put in. <S> Tap, poke, rock, way more than you think it needs. <S> Wash, rinse, repeat. <S> The inside of your form is going to be hard to remove. <S> Can you design it <S> so one piece is free to be removed, unlocking subsequent pieces? <S> I don't think you will be able to slide it up and out intact. <A> To strictly answer your question :Add the most amount of water per the manufacturer instructions and no more. <S> The better answer is that you don't want to rely on water to control your workability. <S> I hope you are planning to do this a few times, because you will have some trial and error. <S> Your mortar will want to shrink, so it might crack. <S> Excessive water increases cracking. <S> Follow the process on the site where you got the picture of the planter form. <S> It's pretty good. <S> Use silicone caulk on the corners of your form to prevent leaks. <S> If you can, put a draft (angle) on the plug in the middle <S> so you don't have to pry it out piece by piece. <S> Dish soap functions as a plasticizer (helps it flow better) and can increase the strength of the concrete if you entrain the right amount of air. <S> As others have said, your mortar mix is relatively weak. <S> Buy the highest strength premix you can find. <S> If you need more strength in a thin wall, you can add straight Portland cement to your ready-mix. <S> Good luck!
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Once the concrete has set, all the water you can supply is ideal, with the best option being to submerge it.
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Breaker keeps tripping even when nothing plugged in My bedroom breaker keeps tripping even when nothing is plugged in to any of the outlet linked to this breaker. Sometimes it will keep tripping when I try to push it back up and after 10-20 min' turn back on just fine. Sometimes it won't trip for couple of days and sometimes it will trip again after 10 min'.On a regular basis here is nothing too heavy connected, just 2 power strips with phone charger and lamp, TV, and window A/C. There are 5 outlets and one light switch on this breaker.I have replaced all the outlets to GFCI and it worked fine for few days.My thinking was, If I put the GFCI, the bad outlet will trip before the breaker.But now when it trips, when pressing on the GFCI outlet 'Reset' button, it seem like non of the outlets tripped. What I did notice is that the wiring is 12/2 romex and the breaker is 15A. Could I be dealing with a bad breaker?!If the wiring is 12/2 should I replace the breaker to 20A? Thank you. <Q> You're not answering what Ed Beal and Harper are asking. <S> Is the breaker heating up? <S> You can check that with an infrared thermometer which you can find for somewhere south of $30.00. <S> You also just revealed the the breaker is an AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter). <S> It trips when it senses something arcing. <S> It is quite different from a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) <S> which trips when it senses current leakage between the hot and the neutral. <S> So they both protect the circuit but for different problems. <S> Lets get back to your breaker. <S> Before I start to check ever device and splice. <S> If you have another AFCI breaker in the panel, I would swap it out to see if the problem moves with the breaker. <S> If it moves then replace the breaker. <S> If the new AFCI trips on the same circuit then we are back to opening boxes and looking for the problem. <S> Good Luck. <S> PS Also check out Harpers comments on receptacles that are wired by stabbing into the back of a receptacle instead of installing the conductor around the side screw. <S> He's done it many times <S> so you won't have to look through too many of his answers to find it. <S> By the way, I agree with him. <A> (mostly because the loss of power to a fridge is a big inconvenience) <S> That said: Breakers are not peas in a pod. <S> Some will trip below rated capacity (rare) Replacing the breaker with a 20A, given that you have 12 ga wire is a cheap and easy first kick at the cat. <S> Take the time to verify that you have 12 ga throughout the entire circuit. <S> There is a cute device called a kill-o-watt. <S> It's a box you plug into the wall, then plug your device into. <S> It gives you the current and power actually being used. <S> A window AC can easily draw 1500 W on it's own, a TV a couple hundred, and chargers/wall warts 5-20w each. <S> Add lights to that. <S> A clip on amp meter can measure the current at the panel. <S> Clip around the supply branch line to the breaker, and check the draw of the entire circuit. <S> Turn various things on and off, and see what the current is. <S> More to the point you can see if there is a demand when nothing is on. <S> If this is the case, then you may have an intermittent short. <S> A compressor (AC's have a reefer type compressor) draws substantially more power on startup. <S> This usually is only for a few seconds. <S> Check <S> also that there are no other loads on that circuit. <S> I know of one building where the south wall on all the bedrooms was on breaker 15, the west wall on 16, the north wall on 17. <S> The idea was that if one room got converted to an office, there would be enough power for everything. <A> : it's seeing the characteristic current imbalance of a ground fault, likely caused by a wiring error or a damaged cable in the wall, and your receptacle-type GFCIs aren't being hooked up appropriately to catch that sort of thing. <S> It sounds like you'll have to go through the wiring on that tripping circuit, trying to see if the breaker still trips as "branches" <S> are disconnected from the circuit's wiring topology, in order to localize this fault to the culprit wiring run, which will then have to be dealt with appropriately, either by running a new cable, or by cutting out the culprit section of cable and installing junction boxes to splice a replacement length in. <S> Basically, this entails a "turn the breaker off, disconnect some section inside a box and cap off any loose ends, turn the breaker back on, <S> see if it trips" loop, working systematically from the far ends of the wiring tree up towards the homerun back to the panel. <A> You have an arc fault breaker. <S> It has two jobs: Detect current which is excessive Detect arc faults . <S> Arc faults are when arcing occurs (when it's not supposed to; obviously throwing a switch is an expected arc). <S> Arcing is the blue-white flash you may have seen when plugging in certain things to certain places. <S> The AFCI literally listens to the power line for the distinctive sound; it sounds like hooking up speakers or plugging in a headphone, the crinkle-snap sound. <S> AFCIs were originally required in bedrooms to detect electric-blanket fires. <S> Turns out, they're also fantastic at detecting backstabs . <S> A backstab is a method of connecting electrical wires to switches and sockets, that is used by builders in a hurry, who don't care what happens after the closing papers are signed. <S> The connections are very hokey (what do you expect from a spring clip that you get four for 50 cents?) <S> and they are certainly the #1 source of problems we encounter. <S> Most likely the fault is somewhere in the wall wiring at the sockets or switches, though possibly also in the power strip or extension cords. <S> This is a good time to change all those sockets and switches to screw-terminal or screw-to-clamp types.
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There could be a loose conductor attached to a device or a splice, causing an arc thus tripping your breaker. You have a fault in the wiring in your wall, not the breaker Most AFCIs, including your Homeline unit, also contain a ground fault trip in order to help them catch firestarting arc-to-ground type faults (note, that the "arcs" AFCIs catch don't have to be clearance arcs through air, but can and often are creepage arcs along contaminated insulating surfaces at a damage point), and your test results are showing that that's why the breaker's tripping Window AC draws more power than a fridge and they get a dedicated circuit by code.
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Proper way of permanently fixing a heavy utensils drawer with "hanger" rail? In my kitchen, all our drawers appear to use a wooden rail "hanger" (at the top of the drawer) to slide in and out: The problem is our utensil drawer is probably one of the heaviest, and it finally gave out, so I replaced it with a new rail and hanger kit from local home improvement store. However now, a month or so later, the drawer "drops down" when pushed in all the way, and the hanger seems to be worn down quite a bit: I could replace the hanger again, but it seems like something is inherently wrong here. I'm guessing the wood/plastic hanger system isn't quite meant for a heavy utensil drawer, and there's some better solution? A general contractor wanted an enormous sum to even come take a look, so I'm hoping you kind folks might have some advice. Thanks! <Q> If the drawer doesn't fall on the trip to the back limit, it would indicate that the plastic hanger is doing fine until it reaches the end of the support rod. <S> Perhaps you'll find unusual wear on the far end of the rod. <S> As an option, consider to reverse the hanger clip so that it is on the inside of the drawer, shifting the hang point clear of the (possibly) failed rod end. <S> Using PETG (stronger than PLA or ABS), you could have a longer hanger clip (front to back) or a more narrow closure at the top to prevent the drop-out. <S> If you can find a second clip, attach one to the inside of the drawer and one to the outside, although that may not be as effective as a modified version. <S> Consider also to apply some wood paste wax to the rod surfaces to reduce the wear on the plastic. <A> You might want to try installing a rail on the bottom frame of the drawer along with the two rollers, one on each side. <S> Then attach the roller bracket to the back of the drawer. <S> You'll be supporting the drawer from the bottom, not the top. <S> Ideally, the rail should be centered but the support from the drawer below might be in the way but being a little left or right of center will work fine. <S> This type of drawer support is available at many home stores and online. <A> Given the weight carried, is it possible to put in proper drawer slides? <S> Shim out supports from the sides of the cabinet to support the slides. <S> Warning: <S> After converting one, you will probably want to switch them all.
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If you have a makerspace in your area, you may also find you can have a modified hanger created on a 3D printer.
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How do I fix this 3 way switch mess? I just moved into my house and replacing switches and receptacles when I come across a 3 way circuit not working correctly. I pulled the 2 switches to find someone had replaced one with a single pole switch. Unfortunately they did a sloppy job and didnt pigtail their hot wires properly, so wondering if someone can tell me how to properly rewire this to my 3 way switch. Thanks in advance. <Q> OK. <S> A 3-way switch complex acts exactly like a plain switch . <S> Meaning <S> if you take the two 3-ways and the /3 cable between them, and pretend they're not there, you see what else is going on. <S> In this case, if you ignore the 3-ways and /3, all that's left is a /2 cable to the top box. <S> That makes this a switch loop . <S> Normally, in a switch loop, the white wire carries always-hot <S> * and the black wire carries switched-hot . <S> Code has two things to say about this: if a white wire is used as hot, and always-hot is in the cable, then the white must be always-hot*. <S> Correct that if it's wrong. <S> A white wire used for "hot" absolutely must be marked with black tape. <S> This has been overlooked in these boxes, so you should correct that. <S> It appears the last guy wired the 3-way loop with the white wire being always-hot . <S> That is fine, but again you need to mark the white wires at each of their ends with black tape. <S> The remaining wires in the /3 <S> (red and black) are travelers . <S> I recommend you mark <S> both travelers with yellow tape (readily available as part of 5-packs of colored tape). <S> Travelers don't need to be distinguished from each other. <S> Then it's easy: <S> On the 3-way switches, the travelers go on the brass screws, and the remaining wire (whatever it is) goes on the remaining black screw. <S> * <S> The white wire is used for always-hot so a voltage tester will always show it as hot; that means it won't be confused for a neutral. <S> The switched-hot wire will test as "at neutral" when the switch is off, because it's connected to neutral via the light bulb. <A> I'm not able to tell what wires go where in your top picture <S> but here's a diagram of what it should be when you're done. <S> You'll have to identify the feed, common, load and two travelers. <A> From your first picture, it looks like you have <S> Two black wires attached to the same terminal on the switch <S> Two white wires (incorrectly) nutted together A red wire <S> Various ground nutted together (looks like metal boxes <S> so it's OK if they're bonded to the box only) <S> This means you have a two-line cable and a three-line cable coming into the box. <S> You'll need to identify the fixture and verify that the two-line cable is being used as a hot and switched hot. <S> Assuming this is the case, here's how to fix it <S> The incoming hot (white) should be hooked to the black of your three-line cable. <S> Take a black marker or black tape and mark this wire <S> so it's clear what it is. <S> Hook the white and red of the three-line to the brass screws of a new three-way switch (it doesn't matter which wire goes on which brass) <S> Hook the black screw of your new three-way to the switched black of the two-line cable <S> That sends the power to your correctly wired switch and establishes the travellers so the switch works again.
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The white wire is likely your hot (hooked to other black wires in the fixture junction box) and the black will be your switched hot (hooked to the fixture hot).
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Replacing tongue and groove floorboards: but can't find a match A room in an old farmhouse, formerly a porch, now enclosed, has floors made of tongue and groove lumber. I need to repair those floors by replacing at least some sections of floorboards - somewhere between 10-30 linear feet. Each original floorboard has a 3 1/4 inch face, and is 3/4 inch thick. I'd guess it was milled from 1x4s, removing 1/4 inch sections to make the tongue and groove. Tongue and groove each have 1/4 inch measurements. All the off-the-shelf replacements I've found have a 3 1/8 inch face, and are something less than 3/4 inch thick. Close but no cigar. If I use the off-the-shelf replacements, that's going to leave a big gap, and I'd rather not. Since I can't find off-the-shelf materials that match the original measurements, maybe I should try to fabricate replacements myself? I have a table saw without dado, and I have a never-used router and small router table . I think I could take 1x4s and slice out the material on either side of the tongue on the table saw and make the groove with two passes; or I could try to use the router, which I have no experience with. Whatever I did would at best result in square sections , not the rounded sections in the original material. (See photo below.) So, three questions: Are off-the-shelf replacements for these available and I just don't know where to look? Ideas? Will square sections instead of rounded ones be adequate? Table saw or router? <Q> Given your expressed degree of inexperience, unless you particularly want the learning experience (good, but pay close attention to coming out the far side with all the fingers and eyes you had going into it, and don't forget the earplugs for preserving your hearing, too) your best bet is to take a sample around to a custom millwork shop, which can likely do the job easily. <S> Aside from the "never used" aspect of your tools, the quaint belief that there's 3-3/4 inches of lumber in a 1x4 is concerning regarding how much of a learning process you have ahead of you for the DIY route. <S> You MIGHT be able to get 3/4" thickness from 4/4 hardwood, but you often need 5/4 to be certain (fortunately you only need the one side to be good, which improves those odds - leaving the backside not completely planed is OK) and you'll definitely need 4-1/2 inch width to have 3-3/4 inches to work from. <S> A "modern 1x4" in S4S condition (surfaced, i.e. planed flat, 4 sides) is typically 3/4, or even 11/16 thick (13/16 <S> if you get a really super supplier) by 3-1/2 wide. <S> If you choose the learning experience, expect to make some bad boards, especially at first, and again when you get overconfident. <S> That's part of the experience, and the only way to get experienced is to do it, learn from it, and do it some more while remembering what you learned when you screwed it up. <S> But do try really, really, hard to make sure that your learning experiences don't involve trips to the Emergency Room. <S> Square- section T&G can be difficult to assemble. <S> This is a set of routerbits that cuts a wedge-shaped profile (which has implications for "fixed size" that should be obvious) <S> - I have also seen more rounded profiles, but am having no luck finding a set of router (or more commonly, shaper, but you don't have one) bits to cut those at the moment. <S> For the limited amount you need, you could just sand sharp edges off the tongues. <S> You could also cut the square tongues to a rounded profile with a cove bit and a fence on the router table. <A> There are places that sell items from old houses that have been deconstructed. <S> One is "Restore" <S> I think is affiliated with Habitat For Humanity. <S> They or other places like that will likely have the flooring you need. <S> It will match closer in color and texture so it blends in with your existing floor better than anything off the shelf. <S> Newer wood will sand and take stain differently. <S> The main thing to watch for when purchasing used flooring material, is that has been sanded on possibly many times. <S> Look at the groove side down the lengths of the pieces you are going through and make sure the lip on the top side of the groove is as thick, if not thicker than the bottom lip. <S> I am not affiliated with Restore or Habitat For Humanity <A> Finding an off the shelf will be hit and miss. <S> Fabricating your own would probably be your best bet. <S> Since you have a table saw, and I'm assuming you know how to use it <S> , I'd invest in a dado head just to make the job easier. <S> Making a few passes with just a saw blade would work fine too. <S> Square sections will work. <S> Good luck and have fun. <A> A few points from central Europe (not sure how they translate to NA, customs and norms may be different): Thickness <S> While 21 mm would be a more standard thickness for groove and tongue floor boards, 19 mm (3/4") is sufficiently common to get it. <S> Though maybe not if you do not just need some softwood but a particular type of wood. <S> These floor boards are meant to be grinded a couple of times before they have to be exchanged. <S> Thus, your now 19 mm boards may been 21 (23, 27 or whatever usual thicknesses are in NA) mm boards. <S> In order to allow more grinding, the groove and tongue are usually not in the middle but towards the lower side (in the middle at end of life after several rounds of grinding): <S> +-------------------------+ <S> | <S> | <S> + <S> -------------------------+ --+ <S> --+ <S> --+ <S> --+| <S> new | | several grindings <S> later| <S> --+ <S> --+ <S> --+ <S> --+ <S> + <S> -------------------------+ <S> +-------------------------+ <S> What is important for you is that the tongue and groove are at the proper height. <S> Your photo looks either much-ground or upside down - or it is an opticall illusion that the upper part looks smaller than the lower part. <S> (Of course, the boards may be upside down in your floor - these things happen) <S> Width 80 mm (3 1/8") width is rather narrow, typical widths here start from about 10 cm (96 mm). <S> However, width is comparably unimportant for repair: <S> as it's groove and tongue, you'll anyways have to take out everything till the bad section. <S> You can then rearrange the repair so that it results in new boards spanning the full width (length) of the room. <A> With a set of tongue-and-groove bits, your router would make this a fairly quick job.
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If the repair is sufficiently small to need just one length of new board, you're fine because you then use whatever wider board of the correct thickness you can get and saw it off to the appropriate width.
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Issue with loss of pressure in shower There's an issue with our en suite shower that is currently puzzling us, and our plumber. Our en suite shower is making a high pitched 'squealing' sound after about a minute of operation, this is accompanied by an apparent loss of pressure, as the water comes out at a slower rate. To make it slightly more complicated, it seems to only be at certain temperatures. I have a warm shower, rather than hot, and that's when it occurs. My wife has a hot shower (ridiculously hot in fact, steam everywhere) and it doesn't affect her. However to make things really confusing, if I have a shower on warm before my wife, and then she has hers, the issue will likely occur for her too. And finally, we've found if we run the tap in our en suite sink at a decent rate whilst the shower is on, it fixes the problem. We have 2 showers in our house, and altogether 4 sinks, along with a washing machine that is piped in, and none of them have any issues with water flow. Our plumber replaced the shower [head], but that didn't help, and actually seemed to make it worse, with it occurring pretty much immediately. The shower [head] he replaced ours with has since worked fine in another house. He did say our water pressure is extremely high, and indeed when we turn a tap on the water shoots out, so he wasn't sure if that had anything to do with it. He's stumped and he's now asking around to see if anyone he knows might have any ideas. I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem, and has any ideas how to solve it? Our house is only about 10 years old (we've been in it about 3 years), and we've only had this problem for the last 6 months or so without anything obvious changing. I should probably mention that I'm not great with DIY, so explaining in layman's terms might be best. <Q> I know this is going to sound crazy <S> but I had a similar problem with a cold water shower valve. <S> It would squeal and then the pressure would drop. <S> I ended up removing the valve stem and found a very loose washer. <S> I replaced it and never had the problem again..... <A> It could also be the mixing valve. <S> The way that showers adjust the temperature is via different openings of 'ports' in the mixing valve, and they can get clogged with stuff in the lines; turning them differently or different amounts of pressure could also affect the mixing valve. <S> Try unscrewing the cover and removing the cartridge -- I've had this problem with a sink faucet in the past. <A> Sounds like low flow in the hot supply is giving rise to turbulence at some restriction. <S> When you turn on the lavatory tap and it abolishes the squealing, do you turn on both hot and cold taps or just one, and if just one, which one? <S> Turning on the lavatory taps will lower the pressure in the lines. <S> Maybe you should get a pressure reducer installed at the water service entrance to your house. <S> This would lower the pressure in both the hot and the cold lines. <S> What pressure does the city water provider say that they supply? <S> What kind of water heater do you have and what is its temperature setting? <S> Setting the temp on the heater at a lower temp will mean that you set the hot faucet in the shower to a higher flow and this may abolish the squealing. <S> What kind of shower heads are you using? <S> Specifically what is the rated flow from the head? <S> This will be written on the face of the head and it will be something like 2.8 gal/min or 2.0 gpm or 1.4 gpm. <S> It will probably also give it in L/min. <A> Get a new Plumber <S> and I agree with gbronner. <S> With the age of your home and therefore the shower valves, both baths' shower valve cartridges should be replaced. <S> We're dealing with plastic and 10-years is the normal expected failure frequency of the "wonderful" garbage. <S> Yes, I said both showers. <S> It doesn't matter how frequent or infrequent the valves are used, they're both always under pressure. <S> Either one's failure allows hot and cold water to contaminate the other or take over entirely. <S> A loss in pressure means one is taking over and traveling into the other that it stole the pressure from before making it out into the shower. <A> I had a proper look at this a couple of weeks ago, checking the head, and pipe connections to the wall, and nothing looked amiss. <S> I cleaned the filters, and any loose parts, put them back in, and still had the same problem. <S> I did however notice by chance when testing it, that if I didn't turn the pressure (or power) tap fully round, it would still give a good flow (pretty much full), and wouldn't have the annoying sound and loss of pressure. <S> We spoke to our plumber about something unrelated this week, and he mentioned that he'd had a think about our shower, and come up with a theory. <S> The water pressure in our house is high, so when the hot water comes through, it pushes so hard behind the shower, it pushes the cold water back away from the shower in the pipes. <S> This makes sense, as it would explain the pressure loss, why it takes a while to happen (it takes a while for the hot water to push the cold back), and would explain why turning the power and therefore pressure on the shower fixes the issue. <S> So we could have an expensive job of fixing our water pressure, but it hasn't caused any other issues, so for now, we'll just continue the cheap solution of only turning the tap halfway.
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The mixing valve or anti-scald protection of the valve is the extremely usual cause of what you describe very well.
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Repairing a broken screw hole on a plastic junction ceiling box? One of the screw holes on a junction box on my ceiling has fallen apart, leaving a hole that is too big to fix a screw into (see top of picture). As a result, I cannot hang my smoke detector from the junction box, since the detector hangs from the heads of the screws. I was trying to see if there was something I could fill the hole with to then make a new hole for the screw. This would save me the cost and hassle of having the box replaced, which I assume would require cutting into the ceiling (the box seems to be affixed to a brace above the ceiling that runs between two joists, since all I see is the head of a bolt at the top of the box and no nail heads anywhere). Any thoughts on what I could do here? Thanks <Q> That box is a type of plastic called Bakelite. <S> It's tough, but brittle. <S> If you're careful, you can break the box apart without damaging the ceiling. <S> If you have a hole saw, you can probably drill out around the rivet heads you see in the back of the box <S> and it will come right out. <S> Then you can replace it with a new "old work" box. <A> Yep, you can fill it by tightly stuffing it with even just damp toilet paper, paper towel or napkin(s), then let fully dry and harden... <S> a liberal coating of Krazy Glue on the first wad would help. <S> Otherwise, a wood putty or auto body (car) dent filler (Bondo) would likely be a more permanent solution for future smoke detectors. <A> I'd just use a toggle bolt.
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If you can drill small holes through the sides, then the insert of a nail or brad for the filler to stuff around will really help durability. No need to patch or replace the box if the outer shell is intact.
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Base for refrigerator wine shelf I have a wine refrigerator that has shelves for wine bottles - image on this question. I want to use this refrigerator and its shelves as a regular refrigerator. So I need to put something on the shelf to make it flat so it can hold anything. The inner (usable) part of this shelf is 23" x 17". At its simplest I think could have some 1/4" plywood cut to those dimensions and simply put them on top. However this doesn't feel like the correct solution to me. How would I best convert these shelves to a flat surface that can hold any shaped item like a regular refrigerator? <Q> Tempered glass (might be costly, might not; but a good and common solution seen in fridges, easy to clean, won't harbor mold, etc.) <S> Wire mesh (fairly heavy, stiff) works and permits airflow. <S> Stainless steel or powder-coated to prevent corrosion. <S> Again, a common shelf material in this application. <S> Have you verified that the "wine fridge" will actually operate properly at the temperature range you require? <S> many are optimized for "cellar temperatures" in the mid-50's F (10 C) and don't do well running at normal refrigerator temperatures in the lower 30's (1-3 C) <A> A glass rectangle tray from a microwave might fit. <S> If the door of the fridge is made of glass then it will be quite inefficient, though pretty. <A> What about an aluminum baking sheet pan? <S> They come in sizes VERY close to what you want and are easily cleaned. <S> Example of a close size: https://www.amazon.com/Winware-ALXP-1622-16-Inch-22-Inch-Aluminum/dp/B001CIEJQU
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Plastic would work but will eventually get scratched up somewhat, but is also a common refrigerator interior suface.
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How to store my pliers and wire cutters on my desk? I have a set of tools I use on my desk that are bulky and never seem to store well. These include my wirecutters, pliers, ruler, and snips. At the moment, the best way I've found to store them is in this pencil holder with half the leg inside and the other hanging outside. This is unstable and ugly but allows me to see and grab the one I need. Due to the nature of the way they balance on the rim, placing them is awkward and requires a lot of empty space around it for the handle to flare out. I don't like it. But I'm not sure how else to store these. I could put them into a toolbox but I want them to be easily accessible while I'm at my desk; I would have to dig to find them inside a toolbox. And I don't want the edge on my good wire snips getting damaged. For those wondering why I have three sets of wire snips, one is a nice snip and the other two are junky ones I got for a $1 when I want to cut into something hard. What solutions are available to organize these on my desk or in a wall? <Q> Here is my invention for you. <S> It is a board. <S> The pliers and snips that volunteered for this project straddled it nicely. <S> If you cut off the ends of the board and reattached them at right angles (with glue or a screw) so it looks like a letter <S> I it would be steadier than this one, which was propped on the 2x4 back there. <S> The little red pliers did not have legs as heavy as the others and so wobbled a bit. <S> You could cut a notch in the top for any like that. <A> How about something like this? <S> https://www.amazon.com/Olsa-Tools-Pliers-Organizer-Storage/dp/B01M27BV34 <S> If you want more ideas then run a Google search for "plier rack" <A> The problem is you are using office supply organizers for tools . <S> Try hitting one of the Borgs ( <S> Home Depot, Lowes or Menards) and visit their tool section. <S> They should have plenty of tool organizers. <S> Be warned: they won't work very well on office supplies. <A> You say hanging them on a wall is acceptable. <S> In that case: Put them against the wall. <S> Grab one at your nearest toolshop or hardware store or make one yourself. <S> All you need is a piece of metal/wood, stick it to a wall and put screws, nails, clips or other objects in it to hang your tools on. <S> The boards with pre-fab holes in them are pegboards. <A> I use a grey foam block like is typically used for packing or cut out in shape for instrumentation cases: <S> I use an X-Acto knife to cut out slots for the heads of the tools that roughly contour the shape of the head, but slightly smaller for a snug fit: <S> This provides immediate access to my most commonly used tools, with each tool having it's own location to assist with muscle memory, while keeping all sharp edges(including said X-Acto knife) properly protected. <S> While I could secure the foam to the desk or weigh it down, the weight of the not-currently-being-used tools in the foam is significant enough in my situation to not require additional weighing or securing. <A> I would get a board (of ply or similar) and lay out the pliers etc in a sensible arrangement. <S> Then insert a screw for each tool so that the tool sits on the screw by its hinge when the board is vertical. <S> Probably cheaper than buying a board that may be larger than what you need... <S> You could also add elastic across the handles and make it so the board is self supporting, which means it could be stored under or to the side of the desk, if your desk surface is at a premium... <A> Here's yet another tools-on-the-wall idea. <S> This is light gauge galvanized sheet metal -- <S> probably 24 ga from the HVAC duct aisle at the local big box store. <S> The non-magnetic tools (flux pens, tweezers, etc) have a magnet bonded to them with epoxy; the magnetic tools have a magnet epoxied to the steel sheet instead. <A> Wooden home-made or wire/plastic for pegboard mounting purchased. <S> If you want it on the desktop rather than wall-mounted, then a stand supporting a board which has holes drilled along the edges. <S> Some results (unlike those) <S> I have not seen in person show up when I put "plier rack" into google... <S> You can get <S> hard wire cutters that cut hard wire without becoming junk, BTW. <S> Personally, I mostly use a clear zip pouch system (which was perhaps intended for fishing tackle) that I picked up surplus. <A> It looks like there's a window behind the desk <S> but you mention a wall so as others have mentioned, a pegboard is a cheap and simple solution. <S> Make sure you mount it with spacers behind it so that you can actually get the accessories in. <S> These 'plier holders' are perfect for this: They are less than a dollar each. <S> The tool goes in business-side down. <S> If you want something that you can place on the desk I would go with something like this. <S> If you can't find something like it <S> you could get small piece of 3/4 inch plywood and fashion it yourself with some basic tools. <S> The 'window' cutouts on the side are for aesthetics and purely optional. <S> The big advantage of making it is that you can customize it exactly to your needs. <S> If you aren't sure how to go about making something like that, reply and I can provide more detail. <A> Google for "lean foam tool wall" etc. <S> You'll quickly see that Fastcap's company founder has produced a bunch of youtube videos about this -- here are a couple of hits from an images search. <S> (Not affiliated with the company -- I do buy foam from them though. <S> I got infected with the tool foam practice myself while in the USAF.) <A> Many years ago my father just drived a pretty big nail to wall, near the table. <S> You can easily hang big/small pliers on it, they're pretty stable and easy to access. <A> Pegboard, or a magnetic tool holder (Harbor Freight sell those for only a few dollars)
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In lean manufacturing circles as well as aerospace vehicle maintenance an accepted way to deal with tools is with foam cutout tool trays, either canted near the work surface or hanging on the wall. Typical is a wall rack with holes in which one part of the handle is inserted.
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Reinforcing water damaged wooden fence posts, will it last, will it be strong enough? Backgound On a wooden fence I have several posts that are water damaged at ground level and the fence isn't holding strong anymore. The remainder of the fence is in very good condition. I believe I can stabilise the fence with the following approach that will be cheaper to do than getting the each of the entire fence poles replaced and cemented in. Proposed Idea I am considering using 750mm x 75mm (2.4ft x 0.24ft) galvanised steel retaining wall posts and securing them to the existing wooden posts with galvinsed bolts (100mm x 10mm) with spring washers. This way the 100mm bolt would be through each fence post, about 300mm (1ft) ( above ground level. 400mm (1.4ft) of the steel would be under ground and cemented in. Question Will this approach keep the fence strong enough? Or will the steel + bolt attached to the wood be a weakness point after a short period of time? Is 300mm (1ft) of steel support above ground, 450mm (1.4ft) below ground enough to support the 2000mm (6.5ft) of fence post + fence above ground. Costs The cost of the steel is about $10 more per brand new wooden fence pole, but the effort to attach the steel is less than replacing the entire post. <Q> if you want very long-life use concrete posts. <S> I can't say if your steel post will be strong enough, because I don't know how strong you need it to be. <S> sheet-steel buttresses are used to reinforce rotting power poles, so your plan is not totally unprecedented. <S> You will probably need two bolts 500mm apart to hold the post well. <S> Given that the ground is likely to be soft near where the post is rotten I would go at-least half the height of the fence underground. <S> TLDR: disconnect the rails set the fence panels aside then rent a post hole digger and replace the posts, back-fill the holes with "instant concrete", dress the top of these foundations to slope away from the post. <A> Simpson Strong-Tie has a product called E-Z Mender that might be what you're looking for. <S> E-Z Mender (Model No. FPBM44E) <A> Turn posts upside-down. <S> I fixed a fence with a similar issue by removing the rotten posts, cutting off the rot, and turning them upside-down then putting fence back on them. <S> I dug out rotten post from the old hole and put sand in the bottom of the hole in hopes of improving drainage. <S> Wood in the soil will always rot but it rots faster if it is wetter. <S> You might get a few more years out of your old posts. <S> This strategy saves buying anything which I like because I am cheap. <S> It is contingent on enough post remaining unrotten to still serve as a post. <S> Another strategy which would have been better than what I did is to use a concrete post anchor . <S> https://www.amazon.com/slp/concrete-post-anchor/v7dhgek2mpua8ds <S> This keeps the post wood out of the ground and unrotten. <S> You use steel, but just to connect concrete in the ground with wood post above the ground. <S> You could still use your old posts; maybe not even flip them but just trim off rot from the bottom. <S> A nice thing with this approach is that you can take your concrete anchor a little higher than ground level to compensate for lost length of the post so fence will look the same. <S> Another nice thing is that people buying your house in 5 years will not wonder about your rotten posts attached to steel post repair job.
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The best fix is to replace the posts with new posts correctly set in concrete.
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Can a surge protector prevent electrocution? My pet keeps chewing cords, and I haven't found a good solution. Will getting surge protectors help keep the pet safe from electrocution if they chew through the coating into the wire? <Q> No, a surge protector will not. <S> An RCD (Residual Current Device) or GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) <S> aka ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker) are the devices that can provide protection, BUT you should be aware that nothing is 100% - these devices can fail... <S> You should get the cords away from access by your pet, shielding or protective strips or even moving the cables out of reach are possibilities. <A> TLDR: Make GFCI protection a top priority. <S> GFCI (called RCD in Europe) <S> The single biggest help is going to be GFCI protection. <S> How exactly to apply that is beyond the scope of this question, but any receptacle such a cord is plugged into should be GFCI protected. <S> Current normally flows in a loop (circuit) - out the hot wire and back on the neutral wire. <S> Electricity moves at the speed of light, so current flows should always be equal. <S> The GFCI is called a "ground fault" detector, but what it's actually looking for is differences between current flow on hot and neutral. <S> That indicates current is taking a third path which is unintended, and thus potentially dangerous. <S> If your pet chews through hot and ground, or neutral and ground, there will be current flow through his mouth and that will trip the GFCI. <S> However, your pet has a chance of chewing through hot and neutral only. <S> In that case, current will flow between them through his mouth, and since this is normal current flow , the GFCI won't trip, and he will be shocked and burn his mouth. <S> The good news is the current probably won't go farther into his body. <S> So it probably won't kill him (though you never know with electricity). <S> AFCI is of limited value <S> Another type of protection is AFCI, or arc fault protection. <S> This is a digital signal processor inside the circuit breaker that is listening for the crackle-snap sound of arcing (you know, that sound when you hook up a speaker or twist a headphone plug). <S> An AFCI can't detect the dog getting shocked. <S> It could detect "wires shorting together" type arcing if he chewed the wires enough to get hot-neutral or hot-ground to short to each other. <S> But I seriously doubt he'd get that far. <S> AFCI will, however, protect you from what comes later when you try to continue using that cord. <A> Not usually. <S> Surge protection won't help as your problem here is simple current flowing from one wire to another through your pet. <S> Surge protectors typically include a circuit breaker for overcurrent protection, but that will not typically react fast enough to prevent electrocution. <S> There are, however, two things that can help: <S> GFCI <S> A ground fault circuit interrupter, typically installed either as part of the circuit breaker in the main panel or as a combination duplex receptacle/GFCI. <S> A GFCI watches for a difference between hot & neutral - i.e., leakage to ground, including through a pet or a person. <S> It reacts at a current level and fast enough speed to prevent electrocution. <S> This will not stop all forms of electrocution - if the current literally flows in one part of an animal and out through another part back to the original wires <S> then GFCI won't "know" there is anything wrong. <S> But this is your basic line of defense with electrocution concerns and is a really good idea in your situation if the receptacles are not already protected as required by modern code in kitchens, bathrooms and certain other areas. <S> AFCI <S> An arc fault circuit interrupter, typically installed as part of the circuit breaker though occasionally installed elsewhere in a circuit, protects against certain types of wiring problems that result in arcing , which causes fires. <S> An AFCI does not typically prevent electrocution directly, but the process of chewing through wires can result in damage that would trigger an AFCI. <S> AFCI is now required in most parts of a house that are not protected by GFCI, but older houses generally do not have AFCI installed.
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No, a surge protector definitely doesn't do that. Installation of an AFCI circuit breaker, if you don't have one already, would add an additional level of protection, but not a guarantee, for your situation.
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Do braided stainless steel hoses with surface corrosion require replacement? I'd be grateful if someone would resolve some conflicting advice I've been given on this topic. Some argue that the braiding does not contribute to the pressure rating of these hoses, and that surface corrosion does not indicate urgent replacement. On the other hand, online sources such as this (in addition to this study ) imply the contrary, that corrosion is among the causes of braided hose failure. What would you say is correct? Would extensive corrosion require urgent replacement? <Q> It really depends on the type of corrosion, some may be more surface finish failure and the hose can last for many years if not a decade. <S> I have seen rusty lines that have some of the strands breaking and the line was not leaking not yet <S> , I would suggest once the outer braid starts failing it is time to replace the line. <S> the urgency would be based on several factors like is the line disturbed or bumped my wife <S> has a buck she stores under the sink that bumps the line in that case it may need to be replaced sooner than one that is never touched. <S> The pressure is also a factor, if you have less than 60 psi <S> I would not be as concerned compared to a home with 90 psi. <S> The last is personal opinion, some want to replace for any reason others may wait for a drip and each opinion is probably based on past experience and disposable income. <A> The first of your links is about METAL hose used in industrial applications, not the kind of SS braided hose that you use in houses. <S> The residential use hoses are plastic hoses that have the metal braiding as a protection from external physical damage <S> , ie rodents chewing on it, sharp objects cutting it, etc. <S> The plastic hose inside is not necessarily reinforced with fibers like the ones without the SS braiding, so if the braiding corrodes and is gone , you increase the risk of the plastic hose "blowing out" if there is a pressure spike. <S> But at the same time, the risk of a pressure spike in modern homes is very very low. <S> I wouldn't get overly concerned about it. <S> The second link goes to an article that needs to be downloaded, but from the synopsis they seem to be discussing the risks of the CONNECTORS deteriorating. <A> The cost of new hoses is very low compared to the potential damage.
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Unless your hoses are in a garage where the cost of a leak is zero, replace the hoses.
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changing toilet seat on wall mounted toilet I can access the screws underneath the toilet but they are placed horizontally like as if they are screws holding the toilet bowl to the wall instead of downward facing screws holding a toilet seat to the bowl. Does this look right to anyone? How best to proceed?Any advice/reassurance welcomeDash <Q> Look at this video starting at about 11 min 30 s. <S> Grohe wall mounted toilet <S> EDIT <S> I see a screw exposed under the swing away cover in the picture posted. <S> I would assume that unscrewing it would release the fitting holding the seat. <S> It might be wise to consult the landlord even before a seemingly simple change of a toilet seat. <S> Maybe his staff know how to do this and would do it for you. <S> EDIT2 <S> Have you looked or felt under the bowl to see if seat bolts are visible? <S> See <S> What kind of tool do I need to access this bolt? <A> Those horizontal studs and nuts / washers do hold the toilet to the wall. <S> The seat fixings are too far back to have an easily accessible fixing from below. <A> Do NOT touch the horizontal bolts/nuts. <S> It looks like the Duravit starck 3 wall mtb wc. <S> You can view the different versions of the Starck 3 toilets with specs to clearly identify the model you have. <S> At www.duravit.us. <S> To determine which you have ,Measure from the wall forward along the top. <S> It looks like you’ll need their most common toilet seat is a Duravit 0063390000. <S> It’s the slow close version. <S> Keep in mind that there are 3-4 models of the starck 3 bowl, and each gets a different seat/cover, in slow close and non slow close. <S> Keep in mind that Duravit is a premium-luxury fixture brand which is not really geared towards “diy” customers.
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You might find that you will have to take the toilet off the wall as the seat hinges are fixed through the porcelain and usually just start rotating once they are loose, at least that has been my experience.
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Is it safe if the neutral lead is exposed and disconnected? I think I’ve found a potential design flaw in an extension cord. It allows you to plug in the hot blade, while leaving the neutral blade out and exposed. Obviously you shouldn’t try and use the cord like this, but is this actually safe, as in you won’t get a shock from touching the exposed pins? It seems like I could complete a circuit to ground by touching the exposed neutral blade, which obviously I don't think would be great for my health. I'm in Canada, the outlet it's plugged into is wired correctly, and there's no GFCI on the circuit. <Q> No. <S> In this condition, the exposed plug blade will be deadly. <S> Every load connects hot to neutral. <S> It does so through some level of impedance, but that impedance is not enough to protect you from shock. <S> One detail: Current wants to return to source, not ground. <S> For man-made mains current, source is the supply transformer, and hot power is seeking neutral. <S> It will be happy with ground, because back in the main service panel there is a neutral-ground equipotential bond connecting them, so it will go via ground to get back to neutral. <A> This is absolutely NOT safe. <S> There is actually a part of the NEC to help with this type of problem - tamper resistant receptacles . <S> That doesn't address exactly <S> the same situation - extension cords are functionally the same as receptacles but practically speaking a bit different and don't normally (ever?) have tamper resistant sockets. <A> You might also notice that you have plugged the hot blade into the return socket! <S> Whatever were you thinking? <S> The reason that "blob" of material is part of the black receptacle is to ensure that you plug in "right side up" , with the ground pin in the ground receptacle. <S> Don't be a Darwin Award candidate.
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If you have a GFCI/RCD device somewhere protecting this load, that will intervene to prevent injury in this case. But a tamper resistant receptacle prevents you from inserting only hot or neutral - you have to insert them both at the same time.
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Patio gate not at right angle to the house I am currently building a fenced in patio, and the entrance gate will not be at a right angle to the corner of the house. My question: should I angle the post that sits beside the house to be square with the gate, or square with the house? I intend to have a header above the gate. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Cheers <Q> you should angle the post that's by the house. <S> It will increase the functionality of the gate hardware. <S> If you're worried about looks, you can always take a piece of fence plank and install it from the post corner over to the house wall. <A> I had a similar issue but a small angle <S> so it wasn't worth bothering to fix it. <S> I think you definitely have to go with the second orientation. <S> (square up the gate opening) <S> Are you using 4x4 or 6x6 posts? <S> Maybe get a 4x8 or 6x12 post for the house side. <S> Then cut a complimentary angle to the house so that you don't have just a point touching your house. <S> This can help if you're going to lag bolt it to the house. <A> <A> If doesn't matter if the gate itself is at an angle. <S> Gates can be at any angle when they are half open, and nobody thinks they look "wrong." <S> But since we don't have a complete plan, I would question why the gate needs to be at an angle anyway. <S> Building an extra two or three feet of fence might be a neater way to solve the problem. <A> You did not show in your pencil-drawn plan which side the gate hinge is on and which way the gate is intended to open. <S> So here's something to think about. <S> * B / / <S> * A------------ <S> | |(Apologies for ASCII diagram..) <S> If the hinge of the gate is meant to be at point "A", and it intended for the gate to open to the left in this diagram, double check the size of the hinge. <S> If you go with a post that is square to the gate, you might find the gate does not open flush against the wall of your house due to the post blocking it from opening the whole way. <S> In this case, you'd definitely want the post square with the house, not the gate. <S> Scenario <S> : Post square to gateOutcome: Gate does not open flush with wall of house <S> * <S> B <S> \ <S> \ <S> * A------------ | <S> | <S> Compared to: Scenario: <S> Post square to houseOutcome: <S> Gate does open flush with wall of house <S> * <S> B <S> _____ <S> * A------------ | <S> | <S> (If the gate is hinging on point "A" and is meant to open to the right, double check once again that your choice of post orientation allows the gate to open flush against the house) <A> The gate latch hardware won't work unless it's square with the gate in the closed position. <S> So if the gate hinge is on the outer/farther post, you can't make it square with the house.
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If a square post is set close to the house wall, it will look wrong unless it is parallel with the wall. Something that might be an alternative option: don't use square gate posts, but triangular ones, or octagonal ones or whatever shape you need to get the angle right.
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Installing expansion tank at washing machine valve? I own a condo with a terribly cramped water heater closet (it sits underneath the air handler with about 6 inches of clearance). I need an expansion tank, but it really will not fit in that closet (not to mention I really don't want to have to touch that again after having just changed the water heater). Is it reasonable to tee the expansion tank into the washing machine's cold water valve? My laundry room has a lot more space than where the water heater is, so there's plenty of room to support it, and easy access if I need to change it out. <Q> Thus, if you have a check valve or PRV (which acts effectively the same as a check valve from the system point of view) on the main inlet to the house, you can put the expansion tank wherever it is convenient if there are no other check valves in the system. <S> All the water (hot and cold) experiences the same pressure throughout the system, and the expansion tank will work wherever you put it on the system. <S> This appears to be a widely misunderstood concept, as can be seen in the comments. <S> Note that if you put it on the far side of a valve, (i.e. not a check valve) it will not work when the valve is closed (but that will also make servicing it easier, if needed.) <A> Reasons for expansion tanks on a domestic water systems: <S> Required by code/bylaw. <S> Some municipalities may require one be installed so that the municipality's water system does not receive back pressure caused by the expansion of water when heated. <S> Use of backflow prevention devises. <S> When using a backflow devise, as may be required by some codes/bylaws, the pressure caused by the expansion of water when heated may cause the temperature and pressure relieve valve on the tank to open. <S> This is not always the case as it depends on multiple variables. <S> Location of expansion tanks on domestic systems: <S> When required, the expansion tank is located on the cold feed to the water heater after the shutoff valve. <S> However in your case, installing it somewhere else on the cold side should be fine so long as there are not isolation valves in-between. <S> Typical install: Source for above drawing <A> As a retired practicing chemical engineer, you can install the expansion tank ANYWHERE in the system as long as not isolated by any back-flow preventer, etc. <S> I am amazed at all the answers saying it MUST be on the hot water line. <S> The cold and hot water are almost always located in a continuous path to each other and reducing the pressure in one location passes over to the others. <S> Many times in condos the only place to add one AFTER construction is at the washing machine. <S> Usually a lot of room and can easily be installed with a simple "Y" connector like so many wrinkle guard washers are being equipped with. <S> Just be sure to use a good quality hose ("burst proof") with for all lines and same goes for any valves or couplers, etc. <S> Might even put a pressure gauge in there somewhere to monitor you system pressure easily. <S> Usually a 2.5 gallon expansion tank is sufficient for a regular home. <S> Should be a DIY project for around $100-$150.Mine was.
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So long as you do not have any check valves between the hot and cold supply, an expansion tank can be located anywhere in the system.
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Electrical wiring capped with wire connectors exposed to weather: bad idea? I noticed what appears to be electrical wiring exposed at the peak of the gable end of our office. I don't have any way to know if there's current flowing to those wires. Is that a problem? I assume that it isn't a good long-term thing, but I guess I can't actually back that up. Anybody? <Q> Especially if the exposed wiring is on an exterior where the insulation is exposed to a more severe environment. <A> Anywhere there are electrical wires with wire nuts or other type of splice, the splice should be in a coverable pertinent junction box whether inside or out. <S> That's code as far as I know and a basic commonsense safety practice at the very least. <A> If you are renting you might want to ask the owner if there's supposed to be a flood light fixture up there. <S> It looks light a perfect spot for one. <S> The wires are high up <S> so there's no immediate threat <S> but they're not supposed to be like that so they should be fixed with a plate cover. <S> Can the wires be accessed from that top room or attic?
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FYI any exposed conductors should be protected and covered no matter where they occur.
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Insulation foam inside PVC sleeve for silcock I just installed an outdoor silcock outside my basement. To avoid direct contact with the brick in the hole I drilled in a foot thick brick wall, I put a 1-1/4" PVC pipe and then the silcock inside it (it also makes it easy to replace and service). Should I put insulation foam inside the PVC pipe between it and the silcock? Right side of the picture (inside part), see the red arrow. <Q> I would make a 1" plug for each end <S> so bugs don't get in. <S> A hard foam ring would be what I would go for. <A> I would have used a frost proof faucet with the longest shaft, usually 12", so the shut off with the "water in the pipe" supply would be closer to the heated area. <S> I see that you installed a shut off valve to isolate and drain the discharge connection <S> but I still would prefer a frost proof unit. <S> My 2 cents. <A> There are following reasons for sealing a space between pipe and wall: <S> Avoid airflow to reduce heat loss in a room. <S> The intrusion of animals e.g. insects must also be prevented. <S> The metallic pipe could come into contact with a surrounding other metal, which could lead to increased corrosion. <S> It is a pipe that must completely insulated for technical reasons. <S> It is a wall with structurally determined fire resistance. <S> A rough look shows that none of these points seems to apply here. <S> Nevertheless, you would have to check that yourself. <S> Yes, insulation foam is possible. <S> This could also be removed later if necessary. <S> Or only a cap. <S> With fire protection requirements, the implementation would be very different.
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I would not fill with expanding foam or similar as that will glue the pipe in place. Another option would be rock wool and a cap in front of it.
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How to remove rebar passing through an inaccessible pipe My maintenance crew recently discovered that someone drove a rebar through a sewer pipe during construction. Obviously this causes problems. The rebar in nearly dead center of the pipe which is encased in a concrete floor. Any ideas to remove the rebar with out breaking up the floor? There is access from the outside about 10-15 feet from the rebar. Thanks. <Q> They make root cutters for cutting plant roots that have grown through pipes, but they are made to cut roots, not steel. <S> I'm not aware of anything that is specifically designed for this. <S> Maybe you could get a steel cutting blade made for a root cutter. <S> You would then still have to get the pipe lined afterwards to seal the holes. <S> This would be a pretty difficult and expensive process, and it would not be guaranteed to work. <S> If the repair blending in is of concern, you would want to cut at existing saw joints, if the concrete will be covered, you can just cut and replace the immediate area of the repair. <A> While you might be able to find a specialty coring outfit that can cut the rebar without damaging the pipe, I suspect that their cost is going to be higher than just busting out the floor/ digging around the pipe/ removing the rebar/ sleeving the pipe to repair/ filling and patching. <S> Unless you can pin this on someone with insurance, I'm afraid you're on the hook for this. <A> Repair of collapsed or corroded cast iron sewer pipe under concrete slabs is done where I live by either cutting through the slab or by tunneling under the slab. <A> You could try cutting it out with a diamond wire saw. <S> I have seen them slice right through tower block pillars (concrete and rebar). <S> If you could loop the wire over the rebar and keep it flush to the side of the pipe it would cut though easily. <S> There are hand saws available (basically just a diamond coated wire with loops on each end). <S> The other option might be an angle grinder on a long pole. <S> Then you'd need to repair the pipe using CIPP or similar. <S> Good sewer CCTV companies should be able to help with that.
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Overall, it will probably be the best and cheapest option to cut the concrete around the pipe, fix it properly, and replace the floor.
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Protect a 6 inch air hose from physical damage I've got this 6 inch air duct coming out of my clothes dryer: As you can see, we use that space for storing all kinds of junk, and every time I move things around over there, I'm afraid I'll puncture the hose. Can you think of a good solution for protecting that section of the hose? I was imagining something like a slightly bigger hose-like thing that's goes around the current hose, serving as a protective layer. Is there a product like that, or can you think of a different product that I could improvise with to accomplish the same thing? <Q> The best thing is to use rigid ducts instead of flexible ducts. <S> A little harder to install as you have to figure out (and possibly do some cutting) exactly what pieces to use for your specific installation, and typically you need to attach several pieces together instead of one long tube. <S> But avoids a lot of the issues of lint collecting inside every "crinkle" in the tube, tube getting easily crushed, etc. <A> The other answers give good advice without actually answering your question. <S> Have you considered cutting two holes in a shoebox and feeding the duct through the holes? <A> If you really must have the dryer where it is, and drape the duct like that, then buy some flexible ducting as used for wood burners. <S> It's quite easy to bend around, but the wall is a lot stronger than what you have there. <S> It's designed in part to be an insert in chimneys. <S> That's to re-site the dryer better, and use solid wall tubing - rectangular or round in section, which can, with elbows, make a much neater, safer job. <S> Moving the outlet, through the wall, presumably, may also make it a better job, but may not be possible. <A> You really need to think about relocating your dryer closer to the vent. <S> Then add some rigid duct. <S> Also, most dryers have more than one exit point for the vent, check them out. <A> To do what you asked for: attach a shelf to the wall, high enough that the duct fits underneath. <S> Put your loose items on that shelf instead of on the dryer. <S> Optionally, fit a plank underneath the shelf in front of the duct, attach the plank to the shelf and make sure there's a few mm of space between the dryer and the plank (so the vibrations of the dryer don't end up in the plank+shelf). <S> Replacing the hose with a PVC pipe and/or using a vent closer to the dryer outlet are better solutions.
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Hopefully with rigid duct you can rearrange things so that you don't have ducts sitting right on top of the dryer (or other appliances). That's the answer to the question, but not the answer to your problem.
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Do I need a 3 wire cable between light fixtures? I am wiring up my unfinished basement for rough-in inspection. My understanding is that to wire 30 recessed lights (9w each), I can wire with regular 14/2, in the image below. However, my PS Knight code book shows me a diagram with a 3 wire cable between fixtures. Is this necessary? <Q> supply =2+e= lamp = <S> 3+e= lamp = <S> 2+e= switch but new requirements for smart switches require 3 wires to the switch in that setup now supply =2+e= lamp =3+e= lamp = <S> 3+e= switch That setup is frowned upon these days because CFLs can blink when the switch is off. <S> You have the supply going direct to the switch (which is the preferred setup) <S> so you only need 2+earth going from the switchto the lamps <S> If any of those boxes are metal the earth wire should connect to the box. <S> if not just join it with a wire nut as you show. <A> The book is describing a situation where the power is left of the lamps, and the switch is to the right . <S> Further, the book is wrong - you must use 3+ground cable between lamp and last switch. <S> Always-hot (black) must go between the power source and the switch, no matter how far that is. <S> Switched-hot (red or other distinguishing color) must go between the switch and all lamps. <S> If black is not needed in this particular cable segment, then don't use 3+ground, use 2+ground and mark the black wire red (for real or pretend). <S> Since the switch is the first place power goes, you don't need always-hot between switch and lamps, so 2+ground cable is appropriate throughout. <A> I've been staring at this for sometime now trying to think of why you would need 3 wire cable between fixtures and can not come up with a valid reason.
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You only need three wire between the fixtures if the switch is on a branch off from the lamps I'm thinking it's a typo and should be 2 wire cable as it is from the panel and to the switch. Or to be more precise: Neutral (white) must go to every location including the switch .
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How long should I wait to plug in my refrigerator after unplugging it? I just had a strange recommendation when I wanted to move the fridge inside my house to a new position. It's just about 2 feet away. I was told that I should wait 30-40 minutes after I unplug the fridge before plugging it in again. How is it so and what's the science behind it? I understand this is usually a recommended way for moving houses but he said that even not moving any bit the above would apply. <Q> There's 2 reasons to wait after moving a refigerator. <S> If you tipped it over the oil needs to re-settle in the compressor. <S> If you interrupted a run cycle the compressor may not be able to re-start, as the motor has a low starting torque and starts more easily working into a low pressure difference <S> - ie after a little rest. <S> In the first case wait a few hours. <S> In the second case 5 minutes is plenty, or you can ignore it and the thermal cut-out will enforce the wait if needed. <A> Wait until the motor stops running. <S> Unplug it. <S> Keep it upright while moving it - it's o.k. to tip it slightly to put a rug or towel under to slide it along the floor. <S> Or just slide anyway. <S> Plug back in. <S> Job done. <S> The waiting time is only when it's likely to be tipped when carrying, or putting it on its side in the car, etc. <A> Like many wives' tales, it has a nugget of truth. <S> You should wait a few hours before restarting a Freon based appliance, after you move it , if you significantly rock it, tip it or give it a car ride. <S> What's going on? <S> The unit has a totally sealed Freon loop, filled with Freon vapor Freon liquid liquid compressor oil <S> If you have tipped the refrigerator, compressor oil can flow out of the compressor (bad) and liquid Freon can go places liquids should not be. <S> That can break the compressor (liquids don't compress). <S> The liquids will flow back once you right the refrigerator, but this can take a long time, because they may need to move through orifices, or vaporize and re-condense where they belong. <A> For 2 feet (60 cm) total displacement, you're probably going to use the same power socket. <S> I wouldn't even turn the `fridge off for that. <S> Instead I'd roll the unit forward on its rollers till there's room, rotate it, then push it back to the new spot, and straighten up. <S> Kinda like shuffling a car from one parking spot to the next one over. <S> You're overthinking this, and your biggest danger is having stuff fall over inside the fridge, or the door swing open. <S> Or scratching the outside finish. <S> The "don't lie a fridge down" rule does make sense, but you won't need to lie it down to move over one space total. <A> A general approach as some may need to tilt or even lay the appliance horizontal, while others will only move it along the wall a few feet...
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It is usually said to wait an hour after moving an appliance like a fridge or freezer so that the fluid will settle.
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How can I bring more light into this shower? Consider this shower alcove: The curtain is partially-transparent. It can't be made much more transparent for privacy reasons; so, it blocks a lot of the light. Also, hanging a towel on that rail further reduces light flow. Thus even despite the light fixture being installed right in front of the shower - it is kind of dark in there. My question: How is it possible to flood the shower stall with more light? Notes: The light fixture's wattage cannot simply be strengthened further, as it is already rather strong and on a very low ceiling (204 cm). I am intuitively ruling out any electricity going into the actual shower (The light fixture is IP54 in case you were wondering). I was thinking about using some sort of mirror configuration; perhaps a right-angle-triangle-paralleloid along the inner-top edge? Ceiling height is 204cm off the floor, minus a few cm if it's off the raised basin. <Q> How about a glass shower door, a combination of clear and frosted glass? <S> They can be ordered to size and are not expensive. <S> If glass doors are not an option, you can install one or more battery operated led lights in the shower (see enclosed picture). <A> You can get light and privacy <S> both See, when you speak of transparency, you're actually talking about 2 wildly separate things. <S> Light can come through it --versus- <S> An observable image can come through it <S> If you've ever used your car's defogger, you know how you can have one and not the other. <S> There was plenty of light, but you couldn't see . <S> This answer brought to you by the word "translucent" <S> Transparent: Light comes through, clear image comes through (window) <S> Translucent: Light comes through, image does not (fogged up window) <S> Opaque: <S> Light or image does not come through (anything solid-colored) <S> Transparent, translucent, translucent of opaque, and opaque. <S> (Source) <S> Note how on the left side <S> you cannot distinguish a tree from a sasquatch. <S> Yet the light level is equal! <S> Source <S> The shower curtain you have pictured is nearly opaque , a patchwork of 90% opaque and 10% trans parent , so it greatly reduces the light in the shower. <S> That is why you are having problems. <S> Trans lucent <S> is what you want, because it lets through the light, but not the observable image. <S> If that is not emotionally comfortable for you, that is a different problem, and we don't fix those here. <S> In that case I recommend low voltage LED lighting fed from a power supply that's not in the shower proper, since it's easy and has no risk of electric shock. <S> Needless to say, translucent shower curtains are highly desirable, and therefore, plentiful. <S> It's possible you may have been mistaking them for transparent ones; both exist. <S> Translucency can also be had in glass, one of two ways: By fogging the glass (a sandblaster will do the trick, though it will reduce light penetration somewhat). <S> Or by having one side of the glass "pebbled" so it lets essentially all the light through, but impossibly distorts any possibility of an image coming through. <S> You put the hazing/pebbling on the outside, since it picks up mineralization, and that's very hard to remove from a hazed or pebbled surface. <S> Another example of a pebbled surface is diffusers on fluorescent overhead "troffers" (the kind in drop ceilings where the whole square glows and you can't quite see the tubes). <A> I don't know why I didn't think of this earlier: <S> There exist shower curtains where the top bit is transparent, but the rest of it isn't, explicitly to get more light into the shower while still providing privacy. <S> A search for "shower curtain translucent window" should find some. <A> IP66 is hose-proof, so find a recessed IP66 or IP67 luminaire if the ceiling or wall can be cut open or a surface mount one if not. <S> If you're still scared go with low voltage LED lighting, mount the transformer in the ceiling above the existing light. <S> and remember it is (or should be) all on an ELCB, so <S> the worst than can happen is being plunged into darkness, <A> <A> Can the curtain rod be removed and repositioned lower? <S> If so, you can cut off the bottom few inches of the curtain, (or buy a new, shorter curtain; I think the curtain you have now is longer than standard.) <S> That shouldn't reduce privacy. <S> You can also move the towel off the rod by installing a towel rack near the shower, so it's still accessible from inside the shower. <S> That'll also increase light. <S> Don't want to mess with the walls? <S> Buy a towel rack stand.
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Another suggestion is to replace your exiting fixture outside of the shower with a track lighting system or some other form of aimable spotlights wherein you can aim some of the light beams directly into the shower over the top of the curtain.
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What is the intended plan with this basement rough-in plumbing? I am currently planning out the framing portion of my project and I am trying to figure out what is what with the rough in plumbing you see in the picture. I don’t have any plumbing experience and plan to hire someone for that part but I want to know what’s what so I frame accordingly. Anyone know? Thanks in advance. <Q> I think Jack is right--here looks to only be one water line so that maroon would be for the toilet. <S> The toilet was probably planned to be at a 45 degree angle. <S> A sink requires a outlet within 36” so that electrical may be for that once the studs have been installed on the stem wall. <S> With only one water line an on-demand or small water heater may have been the plan. <A> The OP shows a typical corner in a bathroom with the toilet waste located near the corner. <S> Based on that, the code requirement (See ICC Figure 307.1) for clearances is 15” minimum from center of toilet to side wall or obstruction (cabinet, tub, etc.) <S> Here is the code layout: https://shop.iccsafe.org/media/wysiwyg/material/8950P235-sample.pdf <S> Please notice that the 15” side clearance runs all the way to the wall. <S> This is impossible with a corner toilet. <S> See American Standard CORNER toilet: <S> https://assets.supply.com/ul_pdfs/415662_installguide.pdf <S> As you can see, the tank is about 20” wide where it meets the wall. <S> In order to meet code, the tank would need to be 30” wide. <S> So, let’s assume Ed and the OP intends to build a diagonal wall and install a standard toilet on that wall. <S> In order to meet code, the wall would need to be a minimum of 30” (actually it would need to be 32” after gypsum board is installed and still obtain the 30” minimum clearance.) <S> In order to build such a wall, it will need to be a minimum of 16” out from the corner...and clearly it would cover the existing rough-in. <S> Summary: 1) <S> A corner toilet does not meet code, and 2) <S> The OP cannot build a diagonal wall and meet the code with the required clearances, unless they chip out the concrete slab and move the existing rough-in. <S> (Btw, in my comments, I didn’t say a corner toilet can’t be installed or is never installed, I said it doesn’t meet code. <S> I’m surprised Lane County allowed such an installation, because the are known for strictly following the code.) <A> Here's why I think a corner mount toilet meets code. <S> This is takn from one of the references Lee Sam provided. <S> The measurements in RED were scaled from the American Standard drawing and may be off by an inch or two.
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I would expect the vent to be in the wall, and the 1-1/2" or 2” pvc to be a sink drain.
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Using Forstner bits instead of hole saws I have been having problems using hole saws when removing the plug of material after use. Looking at What is the right way to clear the drilled plug out of a hole saw? it is still awkward and I have considered spending the extra on buying Forstner bits as an alternative. But then I am told they are not for drilling all the way through. Is it okay (or even safe or wise) to use Forstner bits in this way. <Q> I'm not sure why someone told you that you can't drill all the way though with a Forstner bit, but in my opinion, they are incorrect. <S> These bits excel at creating a flat-bottomed hole but will also drill completely through the material just fine. <S> I regularly use mine in a drill press but they can also be used in a handheld drill. <S> I find that they splinter the material much less than a spade-type bit <S> does although they are significantly more expensive. <S> Here is what Rockler says about them: <S> Rockler <S> What's so special about Forstner bits? <S> Unlike the standard twist bit, Forstner bits are optimized for woodworking applications and cut exceptionally precise, clean-edged holes in wood. <S> Because they're designed to produce a minimum amount of tear-out when exiting the material, Forstner bits are the best bit for drilling through holes. <S> Forstner bits drill a flat-bottomed hole, making them a necessary tool for many hardware installations where a precise depth of mortise is required. <S> Forstner bits are guided by the wide outside rim of the bit, unlike most drill bits, which are guided by the tip. <S> Because of that, they can be used along with a drill press to drill angled holes, holes that partially overlap, and holes on the edge of the material. <A> I've always used hole saws before and yes, hard to get the plug out... <S> extra trip to tool box for a screwdriver. <S> Then I used a Forstner bit to install some hinges on cabinet doors. <S> I loved them. <S> They are fine for drilling through wood. <S> They are much more expensive. <S> They work better in a drill press, just like hole saws do but still work well with a standard drill. <A> (Of course, a spade bit is worst of all in this regard.) <S> Removing the "plug" in a hole saw can be tricky at times, but I usually have success by pushing it out with a nail or punch stuck through the holes in the bit. <S> The arrangement of holes in the bit varies with size and design, however. <A> I found that when using a forstner bit with my hand drill, it’s much more difficult to keep a straight line when making deep holes (ex: drilling 1/2” holes 2.5” deep). <S> I find that they easily veer to another direction, even if your focused on keeping a steady hand. <S> In these scenarios, I prefer a paddle bit since the pointed end does a little better at keeping straight. <S> However, on a drill press, forstner bits are a dream to use.
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When drilling all the way through, a Forstner bit will splinter the back side considerably worse than a standard hole saw.
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In-Cabinet (sink base) electrical box - Metal or Plastic? I'm planning on putting an electrical box in my sink base with a split outlet, one for the dishwasher, the other for the garbage disposal. I was thinking of running 12/3 MC from the wall gangbox (metal box + metal cover with knockout) to another metal box in the sink base. Is this a legitimate / normal practice? I've seen some solid plastic outdoor gangboxes that look like they'd be more appropriate under a sink but then I would have to run non-metallic cable. Thanks <Q> I am assuming you are trying to install a switch leg for the disposal and a continuous hot for the dishwasher and the disposal and, dishwasher are on the same circuit, and you are trying to use a split duplex for both devices. <S> I am also assuming that you are trying to surface mount the box inside the cabinet rather than use a cut-in box. <S> If you are installing a surface mounted box the conductors or cabling would have to protected no mater what kind of box you are using. <S> If you came out of the side you would have to protect the conductors until you could pass into the interior of the wall or some other protected area. <S> You would have to install two separate receptacles (at least one GFCI protected) or add a GFCI breaker to that circuit. <S> Taking this one step further. <S> Since the NEC requires at least the dishwasher to be GFCI protected, it would be safe to assume that the area below the sink is considered by AHJ to be a wet location which would mean an "outdoor gang box" would be required in a surface mounted box. <S> FYI - <S> The new 2020 NEC has modified 210.18 (A) which will require every 120V outlet to be GFCI protected including disposals, as well as any other wet location inside and outside a dwelling. <S> Hope this helps <A> Given a choice, metal is always the way to go, unless it's impossible for some reason. <A> The metal box and 12/3 MC is a normal installation. <S> check to make sure you're not overloading the circuit you're tapping into? <S> Those appliances usually have their own circuits. <A> Assuming you are under requirements of the NFPA National Electric Code (NEC): A dishwasher and disposer are both motor driven, permanently connected appliances. <S> Each requires a separate branch circuit. <S> The location under the sink cabinet is not considered a wet location, and therefore does not require special boxes or covers. <S> You must mark <S> You may use NM (Romex) cable for both branch circuits. <S> Under NEC 2017 210.8(D), the dishwasher requires a GFCI. <S> The disposer's installation instructions dictate the requirement for GFCI protection. <S> Normally, a conventional duplex receptacle is used, with each receptacle separately powered from a GFCI breaker-protected branch circuit.
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One other problem exists the dishwasher circuit requires GFCI protection and the disposal doesn't. So if you do not have GFCI protection for this circuit you cannot put a split receptacle in under the cabinet. Metal is both grounded and a good heat conductor, so it will do a much, much better job of containing a variety of wiring faults. It also has standard knock-outs, so you can attach anything instead of only Romex cables.
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Any idea what this is? We have this in the washer dryer area of our Mother-In-Law. When we moved in no washer dryer was present. I sort of suspect it's some sort of drain hookup because there is no drain. Does anyone know? Can't make out text clearly Drain on water hookup is sealed. <Q> It looks like a drain clean out port. <S> Do you have a hookup to water for a washer? <S> How about a vent for the dryer? <S> The cap looks like it's been pushed in after the painting took place. <S> Did you try to remove it? <S> It could be a cleanout cover plugging a dryer vent... <A> Is this object on the ceiling or wall? <S> If it was on the ceiling, I’d figure it is a smoke detector. <S> However, I’m guessing that it is on the wall, thus I think that it might be an old drain or pipe of some sort. <S> There might be a professional that could tell you more. <A> That is a threaded pipe cap. <S> Unscrew the cap using a large pipe wrench.
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Most likely it could be used as a drain for the washer. Install a male adaptor into the threaded opening then plumb a proper stand pipe drain with a p trap.
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reducing light reflection on a wall I have a wall across from the doorways of a bedroom and "office." It reflects light into the bedroom which bothers people trying to sleep with the other door open. What would be a good way to reduce the light reflection? Ideally we could keep both the doors open to hear each other if needed and also for airflow and pet traffic. Also light in the office is needed for hobby work so simply turning the light off isn't always the best solution, either. Preferably some kind of wall hanging would be what I'm thinking of. <Q> It might not help with air flow, but hanging a lined door curtain over the inside of the office door will stop the light escaping the office, and you will still hear what is going on in the bedroom. <A> Hang black felt - it eats light quite effectively. <S> You want to make sure that it's fire-treated, or apply a fire treatment yourself, since "things like curtains" (which it would be) are a big problem in spreading fire fast - if not treated to prevent/reduce that issue. <S> Other black (or dark colored) fabrics may work, but the surface on felt is particularly effective at being non-reflective. <S> Depending on what the lighting in the office is, and the nature of the hobby work, using directed task lighting rather than a general overhead light may also help reduce light bleed. <A>
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You could also apply a flat black/dark paint, but that might not be a viable option (did not specify, but you were asking about "preferably a wall hanging.") An option which might take a little work is to reverse the hinges on one or both doors so there is no direct visual path from the bed to the wall area illuminated from the office.
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Joining two areas of tongue and groove flooring in a room - disguising the join I have an old 1960's tongue and groove floor that, after some renovations (removing an internal half-height wall), will be joining (butt end-to-end) some new tongue and groove (85mm x 22mm matai) I had initially hoped to match the old/new board widths exactly and feather in some of the new pieces in to reduce the visual impact of the join, but this is proving to be difficult as although the boards are the same width, the original installers in the 1960's were very inconsistent with their cramping and there are (sometimes quite large) inconsistent gaps moving the ends of the boards out of alignment fairly quickly. I thinking about routing out a 30m or 40mm wide channel about 6mm deep cross-wise along the join (ie, evenly across the ends of the old/new lengths) and dropping in a piece of contrasting wood to accentuate the join rather than hide it. This obviously raises concerns about expansion. Is this likely to be a problem? (To be clear, I was going to use new matai for the cross piece insert and I'm not at all concerned about the difference in wood color between the new and old matai - after sanding/finishing and a decade of aging I imagine they will look fairly similar. I'm just not a huge fan of the straight-line room-wide butt join running the full width of the room - functionally it's fine, but looks a bit a naff. By putting the cross piece in I'm thinking about making it look more like a feature/ slightly more intentional rather than the constraint that it is) <Q> I've been thinking about this since yesterday. <S> There are all kinds of transition pieces for floors that allow for expansion <S> but they all have a slight overlap and thus are raised from the floor, like the one I've shown below. <S> If this is in the middle of a room it stands out like a sore thumb. <S> I'm guessing you want a transition that's flush <S> so if I was doing it, I'd route out the space like you said you wanted to do. <A> To long for a comment. <S> I have used router bits & shapers to make both the tongue & grooves in larger boards that we cut down to match the width on Victorian homes. <S> Even with a complete refinish a pro can see the difference because the grain is not as tight maybe only 50% of the original but most folks don’t see it if they do they don’t realize what they are seeing. <S> Just prior to my dads passing we purchased a late 1800’s home that had to be moved or taken down, we gutted most of the flooring and the fixtures , doors And siding before our 2 weeks was up <S> and we knocked it down, we did do a couple more remodels and because we were able to use original wood you could not tell. <S> Mom sold all the “junk” for ~20k to another contractor most was from that 1 home, <S> I did a couple more several years later and wanted to have the pro look but could not find anything close. <S> these are the main areas of focus for the historic register, yes the doors, windows and crown moldings are examined but the parlor and dining room were areas inside they really examined <S> so you may be able to match your area by using wood from another room that is a lot of work <S> but if in the open it is the only way I know to be judged original when repairs and or remodeling. <S> Your needs are not that much different than ours were, we did not have issues with using original wood but did have some cupping prior to using new wood because of the grain differences only once that I remember having to go back and repair <S> but that was caused by a dishwasher overflowing. <A> If you have a closet or pantry, etc. <S> you might be able to "harvest" some floorboards from inside there to get a more perfect match to patch the hole. <S> It would be the "original" wood, so most likely it would fit the dimensions and coloring better and have been subjected to roughly the same moisture effects and movements, etc. <S> as the rest of the floor. <S> I'd try something like that before routing out pieces of floor and filling with transition molding, etc.
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You could then patch the hole in the closet/pantry or whatever with new wood where nobody will see it. I'd fit in a flush transition piece and deal with any expansion later if it should happen. What I did was to remove a section in a bedroom to use in the Parlor and dining room
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Crawlspace Post to beam lumber grade Recently we replaced some of the rotten and cracked true size 4 in x 6 in. posts under the house in crawlspace. The old posts were resting on concrete pads 24 in. x 24 in. and supporting a true size beam 4 in x 8 in. The lumber we used is 4 in. x 6 in. x 8 ft. Pressure-Treated Landscape Timber , since we couldn't find any true size to match the old one. This lumber is rated as #3 grade but does not have any knots or cracks and labeled as not being used for structural purposes. Should I be concerned about its strengths? I presume that is Douglas Fir. <Q> And you want to use material that is below grade 2 and specifically listed as not for structural. <S> I would not have this prior to my loss, don’t give them any reason for denying your claim. <A> I would be heeding the warning. <S> Did you try a real lumber yard or just your home store for the replacement lumber? <S> At least replace the wood with some rated for structural use. <A> Why wouldn't you just use 6x6 treated #2 SYP posts? <S> You must have a reason why you felt that getting a 4x6 was more important. <S> Otherwise 4x6 <S> treated is available as curb blocking at lumber yards. <S> Typically it's #2 if I remember correctly.
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Not using graded lumber can get you in trouble. Or what I mean is using a lower grade than allowed for a residence. If you ever have an earthquake this could be an area that the insurance company says they won’t cover your loss.
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Lowest height accepted for 30A Outdoor Fused Safety Switch for water well? I'm getting a new well drilled and was trying to make everything as least noticeable as possible. According to the well driller I need a disconnect right by the well head, yet I see many home wells with no visible panel box. Assuming this is a new rule/regulation, what would be the minimum distance from box to ground(soil)? I'm thinking the lower to the ground the less visible distraction. It will be 30Amp slow blow fuses with a red handle safetyswitch style. Exactly like this: SafetySwitch If anyone can explain how other well heads don't have an ugly disconnect/safety switch right next to the well head I'd like to know how I can legally do that instead! <Q> Read article 430.102 of the NEC for a description of why some well installations do not require a disconnect within sight of the motor. <S> One of the examples used in describing the exception condition (a) is "submersible motors", which covers a lot of well pump motors. <S> If you have a submersible, you don't need a disconnect at the top of the well, it can be elsewhere. <S> If you have a jet pump or turbine pump where the motor is at the top, you do. <S> There is no general rule on minimum height, but there are several unrelated rules (mobile home and trailer pedestals, EV chargers, etc.) <S> establishing 2ft from the ground as a minimum, so it's best to use that even though it doesn't apply. <S> But if you are in a flood plain, you should pay attention to the "100 year event" level. <A> The disconnect needs to be “within sight” code defines this as 50’ and being able to see it from the well. <S> My state allows for the circuit breaker to be locked out if a permanent locking device is added to the breaker. <S> As far as minimum height the only place I remember that is for things like RV pedestals and disconnects close to water. <S> If in a structure it could be touching the ground (my house has a small wishing well surround and roof with the disconnect ~12” from the concrete the the structure is built on. <S> I did double check and only the maximum height is 6’7” to the circuit breaker or switch handle in its highest position. <S> Other than the 2 I listed above <S> but as far as disconnects there's only a maximum listed. <A> You need a disconnect, but can skip the fuses <S> An individual disconnecting means shall be provided for each controller and shall disconnect the controller. <S> The disconnecting means shall be located in sight from the controller location. <S> The good news is that you don't have to use the fused safety switch you propose in your question. <S> Instead, you can use a non-fused AC disconnect box, such as this GE TFN60RCP , as the motor overload protection is provided in the motor (for smaller motors) or the control box (for larger motors) instead of by a set of fuses. <S> This saves you money, and the possibility of having to troubleshoot and change blown fuses as well.
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While your disconnect need not be in sight of the motor , and can't be for a submersible pump motor, you do need a disconnect in sight of the controller (in your case, the pressure switch), as per NEC 430.102(A), as the exceptions to that rule do not apply to us at all: (A) Controller. I did find a panel board in a mobile home must be 2’ off the floor
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Why are the inside diameters of some pipe larger than the stated size? I'm looking over some specifications for black pipe. I understand why dimensional lumber is smaller than the stated dimensions, but why would the pipe manufacturers give you more volume than what is expected? Does anyone know the history on this? Size | O. D. | I. D. | Wall Thickness================================================================== 1/4 in | 0.540 in | 0.364 in | 0.0880 in 3/8 in | 0.675 in | 0.493 in | 0.0910 in 1/2 in | 0.840 in | 0.622 in | 0.1090 in 3/4 in | 1.050 in | 0.824 in | 0.1130 in 1 in | 1.315 in | 1.049 in | 0.1330 in 1.25 in | 1.660 in | 1.380 in | 0.1400 in 1.50 in | 1.900 in | 1.610 in | 0.1450 in ...and so on..... <Q> 1 inch pipe used to have an inside diameter of 1 inch. <S> As the fittings attached to the outside, the OD had to stay the same for compatibility with the old stuff. <S> The manufacturers fiddled with the wall and the matching of the actual measurements with the named size was abandoned just as it had been at the sawmill. <A> Schedule 80 has thicker walls. <S> The OD is the same for both 40 and 80, but the IDs for 80 is the same as the pipe size. <S> Thus, 1/4" Schedule 80 has an ID of .25". <S> Schedule 80 has higher pressure and tensile strength ratings because of the thicker walls. <A> In US , ANSI refers back to ASTM <S> A 530 : this is the specification that defines all pipe dimensions. <S> It has nothing to do with strength ( or anything else) , strength is defined in the specific pipe specifications such as ' A53 , A120, A106 and a hundred more. <S> Pipe is made so it will thread together , <S> So every piece of one inch pipe threads into every other piece , Sch 10, <S> Sch 40, Sch 240 etc, or stainless or copper, etc, all can thread together. <S> Threading together has nothing to do with the ID ; the schedule defines the wall thickness which determines the ID. <S> And "one inch" is the name of a size of pipe, it does not mean that any dimension is actually one inch. <S> Mill varnish is not put on galvanized, stainless, etc. <S> API also has a pipe specification with significant differences : minor variations in thread dimensions from ASTM A 530 , A very wide range of wall thicknesses , and a very wide range of strengths and some chemical restrictions for welding considerations and comprehensive quality provisions. <S> API also has specifications for casing and tubing which are used exclusively in the "oil patch". <S> This answer may have been a bit long but having been a voting member on ASTM A-1, committees 9 and 10 ( pipe and tube) and later on API Committee 5 ( line pipe . <S> casing and tubing) <S> I had to put in my 2 cents
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"Black iron" refers to a dark mill varnish ( may be a derivative of tar and/or asphalt ), the steel mill applies to pipe to prevent rust while in storage ; nobody wants to buy new pipe and have it delivered covered with rust.
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How to identify the wires on the dimmer to convert it to Conventional on/off switch I have a dimmer switch that I need to convert to a conventional on/off switch. I have checked this link for guidance already: How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch? It seems like I will need a 3-way switch do replace this. I am having very hard time understanding the wiring and how to connect this to a 3-way switch. This is what I have: Green from dimmer -> connected to 3 white wires in the outlet box One black -> connected to one black in the outlet box Other black -> connected to two black wires in the outlet box I had an electrician convert a similar dimmer switch to a conventional on/off switch in the past and this is what he did. Basically, in this he has done this: One black going to the bottom hole Second black going to the bottom screw Third black going to the top hole Nothing on the top screw Can someone please help me make sense of this and help me with: Confirm the switch type I need The circuit and connections needed Solution Pics (solution provided by Ed and Carl in the comments): Wire Connection (I did not use the pigtail connection, in the lower screw with 2 wires together, although that is what everybody is recommending): This is the WRONG way of attaching the wires (although it works). This causes fire hazard and should be avoided. The good way is to use the hole at the back. Note this uses backstabs which is not recommended. Check the update after the pic for a better way. Update (8th Sept 2019) - Better way :I followed Harper's suggestion to avoid backstabs as there are considered risky. I instead ended up using a Pigtail connection to connect the live wires as he recommended in the comments below. I also added a copper wire to create a ground connection with the back of the electrical box. I could see copper wire connected to the screws in the back of the box. I added the copper wire for ground to these screws. Below are the detailed steps on how I did the pigtail connection. Pigtail connection Step 1 : I took a black wire from another electrical wire and stripped it on two ends. Pigtail connection Step 2 : I connected the two live wires coming in with this new wire and twisted the three wires using a plier. Then I used a wire nut and twisted it on. Give a good tug and ensure that the wires don't come out of the wire nut and have a good grip inside. Pigtail connection Step 3 : I used electrical tape over the wire nut to enhance the security and twisted the other end to ready to put it on the switch screw. Pigtail connection Step 4 : Finally I tucked the wires in the electrical box and screwed the switch onto the box. <Q> Wires that are green, yellow/green stripe, or bare, are always and only Protective Earth aka Equipment Safety Ground*. <S> They must only be connected to each other and never anything else. <S> That makes the green-white splice WRONG, and it should be removed immediately and attached to real ground where it belongs. <S> Protective Earth is always a safety shield, and never figures into the actual wiring, so it is excluded from your thinking about how to arrange wires. <S> Now, voilà! <S> Things are simple. <S> The two remaining black wires must be the wires to the switch. <S> * on mains equipment which is legal to use in the US, i.e. Has a non-counterfeit stamp and file number from a Nationally Recognized Testing Lab. <S> If you acquire equipment from Alibaba, Aliexpress, EBay or Amazon, all bets are off ... <A> You do not need the green wire that is going to the neutral(s) remove that. <S> There is a ground connected to the box in the back so on your new switches remove the paper “nut” or screw retainers prior to installing the switch. <S> The last part is put the single wire on 1 lug of your new switch then the 2 blacks pigtail to the other lug. <S> You only need a standard switch SPST single pole single throw. <A> It appears that this is a common situation where the switch is "tapping" a run of source 120V. <S> Ditto for the bundle of white return wires. <S> The single pair of black wires is almost certainly the connection to the hot side of the light fixture. <S> The green feed from the dimmer, which is connected to the returns, is there so that the circuitry in the dimmer itself has a return path. <S> The new non-dimmer switch is simply a "make/break" in the hot (black) line, so it doesn't need that return. <S> It should, however, have a screw somewhere on the side to connect to a ground lead in your box. <S> However, I don't see any ground wiring in either of your photos.
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You could use a double pole switch but one of the screws would be not used I have done that when I had a extra 3 way and not enough single poles it will work fine and would not violate code, switch down when on turn it over or swap to the other traveler. The bundle of black wires includes the source, a connection to your switch, and a connection downstream to other items.
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Can you use aluminum foil around gap at floor of hot water tank then seal? Fairly big gap at floor around pipes of hot water tank. For mice prevention I read some where you could fill gap with aluminum foil then seal. Is this correct. If so what kind of sealant should be used? Need help right away. Not sure but I think they might be chewing the insulation. Right now I’m using cotton balls soaked in Peppermint Oil, undiluted, in small glass containers (3) around the hot water tank. I did find 1 mouse that came through a gap around an electrical outlet. Had Peppermint Oil placed on floor under the outlet. The mouse died within 15 minutes. Haven’t seen any more but that’s not to say there may be more. What can I use to seal around the electrical outlet. I’ve got it covered with duct tape now. I’m elderly and disabled and live alone with my dog. I’ve been doing minor repairs myself but these 2 situations I have no idea what to do other than keep using Peppermint Oil which, by the way, I have sitting all around the house in strategic places such as doors, windows, under beds and furniture, behind fridge washer dryer stove, cabinets drawers, shelves high and low, all corners and especially under kitchen and bathroom plumbing. I’m a little paranoid about ants and other creepy crawlers as well as mice. <Q> I think your best bet would be to get a can of spray foam sealant. <S> It expands to tightly seal gaps. <S> It's very easy to use and you can get it just about everywhere. <S> Good luck. <A> Peppermint oil is not as effective against mice as traps and poison. <S> It should go without saying, but keep your dog away from the oil, traps and poison - whatever you end up using. <S> The first step against pest infestations is to remove the attraction. <S> Keep your rooms clean and all food in sealed containers. <S> Drywall and siding/foundation repair are better permanent solutions, but are more expensive and require more work or expertise. <S> Duct tape and aluminum foil (or aluminum tape, for that matter) will not effectively seal cracks where insects and mice can get in. <S> To deal with mice already inside, you can use traps that kill mice such as glue or snap traps, poison pellets, or humane traps that lure mice inside a small box so you can relocate them. <S> Be sure to check the traps regularly and keep pets away. <A> It is soft and conducts heat very well. <S> Much better is to lay galvanized steel mesh ("hardware cloth") or sheet flashing around but NOT touching the pipe.
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If you use humane traps you must release the mice very far from houses so they don't become a recurring problem to you or your neighbors. You can seal and insulate gaps and cracks with expanding foam as JACK suggested, but keep in mind this stuff is not for exposed exterior use, and should not be used inside outlet boxes. Crushed aluminum foil is not a good packing around hot water pipes or even cold water pipes. It won't smell as good as your peppermint oil but will probably do a better, more permanent job.
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Adapting 1/2 hose to sink Im building a simple low pressure foot pump operated sink. What adaptor should I be looking for to go from typical (USA) male faucet threads to 1/2 hose barb? I'm new to plumbing and have found surprisingly little info on this online. <Q> Just Googling around a bit, it looks like there's some options. <S> Disclaimer: <S> These are just search results, not brand or store recommendations. <S> I used the search terms: faucet to 1/2" hose barb adapter . <S> Brass Quick Garden Water Tap Connector 1/2 Inch to 3/4 Inch Universal Pipe Fitting Adapter Easy Connect Home Yard/ <S> Washing Machine Thread Water Faucet https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Universal-Fitting-Adapter-Connect/dp/B078JP7HWS <S> 1/2 in. <S> Drip-Lock Hose Faucet Adapter <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-2-in-Drip-Lock-Hose-Faucet-Adapter-67495/301043975 <S> This one looks to need a standard faucet to garden hose adapter to meet what you're looking for. <S> 1/2 <S> " ID Hose x Swivel FGHT Nylon Swivel Female Insert https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=63003&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6v7UnPr24wIVhsBkCh2h8wqIEAQYCyABEgIJmvD_BwE <S> This one also looks to need a standard faucet to garden hose adapter, but at least it's brass. <S> Brass Fitting - 3/4" <S> Male Garden Hose X 1/2 <S> " OD Barb | Compact https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Brass_Fitting_3_4_MGH_x_1_2_Barb_Compact_p/brass-3-4-mgh-x-1-2-barb-comp.htm <S> I can find plenty of faucet to 1/4" adapters, but not a many to 1/2". <S> There's also plenty of adapters to a standard garden hose, but that doesn't seem to be what you're looking for either. <S> Normally shopping suggestions aren't a good fit for this site, but I think trying to find a non-standard part might be. <S> If people disagree, please vote on the Question, not my answer. <A> The easiest solution is just a garden hose repair end. <S> Available at most hardware stores. <S> These usually come with a brass barbed connector and a hose clamp. <S> A second type has a plastic barbed end and two plastic halves that are bolted together around the outside of the hose. <S> Usually available in 1/2" and 5/8" 1/2" black poly line is usually closer to 5/8" ID. <A> What adaptor should I be looking for to go from typical (USA) male faucet threads to 1/2 hose barb? <S> First you will need to ascertain what threads your faucet spout has (there are many); a faucet thread gauge will help (these can be found in plumbing shops and sometimes in the plumbing dept. of "big box" stores): <S> Then you will need to adapt to a thread for which barbed fittings are commonly available. <S> Then you need a pipe thread to barb <S> adapter: <S> example of pipe thread to barb <S> adapter: <S> I have never seen a single adapter that will work for this, so you need two. <S> Also, whether or not you convert your faucet to pipe or to garden hose thread, then to barb, will depend on availability of fittings in your area.
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In my area it is easiest to adapt your faucet to pipe thread , because many pipe thread to barb adapters are available: example of faucet thread to pipe thread adapter:
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Removing cap from box/turtle style roof vent I have a vent on a shed roof: that has a huge wasp nest inside (though no wasps (at the moment), thankfully!). I can see it from the inside of the shed (not pictured). I thought it would be easy to pop the cap off of the vent, clean out the nest, then pop it back on. However, it doesn't appear to me that the cap can be removed!? There are clips on each side that seem to be riveted: Is the only thing to do here to replace the entire vent? Here is what it looks like from the inside - there is a mesh blocking the nest: <Q> After buying a replacement (and replacing the vent), it seems as though indeed these do not come apart (which seems CRAZY to me!). <S> The new one I got does NOT have a mesh on the inside though, so it seems like this particular problem cannot happen again (as there's no "floor" for a nest to rest upon). <S> However, that also means much bigger bugs can enter the shed :). <A> Can't you get to the nest from inside the shed? <S> Any chance those clips can be pulled away from the rest of the vent? <S> Go into the shed with a hose and just blast the nest apart. <S> Bring a bucket up there with you to catch the majority of the water. <A> I'd probably cut away the mesh and clean out the nest, then simply fit new screen in place. <S> You should be able to cut a rectangle slightly larger than the opening in the roof boards and simply tuck it between the boards and the vent plate.
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I may add my own mesh on the inside of the roof, which would keep out the bugs but also allow me to remove the mesh to fix a problem like this in the future. Replacing the vent would be the last thing I'd want to do.
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What are the black spots on my basement ceiling? My house is one year new construction. I didn't use the dehumidifier at the basement until one month ago I realized the basement was damp and there were some mold on the wood frame on the basement ceiling(not serious, already cleaned). I also noticed there are many black spots on the plywood on my basement ceiling and the plywood behind the electrical panel, they don't look like mold to me, but I am not sure. Can someone please tell me what are these black spots? I am concerned they might be mold. <Q> As you can see the factory prints information on each sheet during the manufacturing process. <S> Occasionally there is an error and ink is splattered during the time the sheet is passing through the conveyor getting trimmed,stamped,edges painted,etc... <S> Looking at your first picture we see the pattern of black spots stops at the joint between two sheets. <S> That assured me that this is not a case of mold growing. <A> Well that’s not plywood <S> but it is OSB , <S> high moisture in the air can allow mold like you have. <S> A simple 3% hydrogen peroxide and water will stop it from getting worse. <S> I currently work in a mill and the wood stored outside prior to finishing and a biocide spray looks just like this. <S> but I did still need the dehumidifier just did not need to empty it as often. <A> This is for sure black mold on the osb. <S> After dealing with a lot of coughing and trouble breathing, i found out from the doctor that i have mold micro toxins in my blood. <S> Then when i inspected the house i saw these same black spots in the basement and attic. <S> After hiring someone to fix this all across my house for $4000, my coughing went away and breathing was back to normal.
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The only way to prevent it from returning or getting worse is to remove the moisture as you have found your dehumidifier will remove the moisture, I have also found sealing the floor with epoxy paint really helped reduce the moisture I tested them with a mold test kit and it turned out to be a black green mold.
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Can I use existing wiring for installing an OTR Microwave? We are looking at installing an over the range microwave in our house but I have a few questions concerning the electrical hookup before we pull the trigger and get one. Currently there is a range hood above our stove. I took it down and there is an electrical cable coming directly out of the wall into the hood. I know that it is advised that an OTR microwave be on its own dedicated circuit (or something like that) from anything else. However, I’m not entirely sure if it is or not. I’ve narrowed down which breaker it’s on and I’ve attached an image below. The stove is on the same one. Does that mean I will not be able to use that wiring? I’m mainly confused by the circle with two slashes in it afterward, does that mean anything specific? Edit: sorry for the sideways image. Stack exchange rotates the image when I upload it for some reason. <Q> You should be fine <S> If there are kitchen outlets on this breaker, then I would limit the input (nameplate) power of the microwave/hood to 1.2kW (which will mean a relatively small microwave) to avoid violating NEC 210.23(A)(2): <S> (2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. <S> The total rating of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied. <S> As to that symbol... <S> The two-parallel-lines-in-a-circle symbol you see on your loadcenter's directory label, by the way, is the standard symbol used to denote a receptacle on North American electrical floorplans. <A> Newer microwaves don't take as much power as the older ones. <S> If the breaker trips in the future, then run a dedicated circuit to it. <S> If the breaker never trips, then leave it that way forever. <A> I think it would be OK. <S> If the microwave and the stove are the only things on the circuit, the stove is likely only pulling electricity for the clock and lights, spark ignition, etc. <S> That's how mine is hooked up in my present home and the one we had before that, and we've had no issues in either case.
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If this breaker truly is only serving the hood (I'd double check that with a plug-in radio in each of the kitchen outlets with this breaker off), then you'll be fine with putting the microwave/hood on there. This might not be the best answer, but personally I'd just go ahead and do it.
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Sprinkler valves are surrounded by tree roots I discovered that I have 3 valves that are wrapped around a gigantic tree root; see picture. I noticed the dirt was moist. And I know that at least 1 valve is bad. Possibly 2 in this physical area. I am getting a little worried that this is a job that may be require some advanced skills or a lot of man hours to fix. I am probably going to call a professional. What should I be looking to do here? Reroute the lines? Cut the roots? Any tips or suggestions? Part of the problem is that I'm finding it hard to find people that repair sprinklers. A lot of companies tell me they only do new installations. (North Texas area) <Q> Literally working on a similar problem, minus the gigantic roots... <S> The problem with the roots is the roots: if you work around them, you work around them. <S> If you cut them, you may kill the tree, which is a whole nother ball of wax. <S> There are a plethora of videos on "how to fix a leaking sprinkler valve" - try some of those; if you have a screwdriver and won't melt from getting wet, the experience can provide a wealth of information just by diving in. <S> This one is descriptive and educational - it might not solve your problem, but might give you enough insight to narrow your search. <S> Worst case scenario, you break something and hire the professional you were going to hire anyway to install a new valve. <S> TL;DR: <S> Troubleshoot the valves with online videos. <S> It's not as scary as it sounds. <A> I don't leave my smartphone out in the rain. <S> Under that same logic, I don't install GFCIs outdoors either. <S> Outdoors is a hostile place to equipment. <S> Those poor valves there, seem to have wound up in Fangorn Forest. <S> My first reaction would be to get them outta there . <S> I can see not wanting to mount them indoors because if they leak, you have a flood. <S> However, you ought to be able to find a nice, safe location for a control cabinet... <S> Somewhere you can keep these out of the weather, and far away from carnivorous flora. <S> Where the valves can be manifolded and easy to cutout and swap, and where the wiring can be done "in a neat, workmanlike manner" like Code requires. <S> When you need to get to something, you just lift a lid <S> and it's all at arm's reach. <S> Obviously you'll need a bit more pipe, but by and large, pipe is fire-and-forget. <S> The first you hear of a problem is when you get a boil of water instead of normal irrigation, then you dig up the pipe and lay around the problem. <S> Won't happen very often. <A> I suggest you consult a tree expert who can determine if the roots can be cut without injuring the tree. <S> If so then maybe that same expert can cut and remove the roots so that you know it was done properly. <S> Once those roots are out of the way you can probably repair/replace the valve yourself. <A> The roots are on the high pressure (more vulnerable) side of the valves. <S> That's a pity because that has to be done to a higher standard. <S> I reckon most people would redo the manifold (valves and pipes complex). <S> If the pipe on the right is the inlet water then you can choose where to put it; but perhaps in a nice pit box this time. <A> Do you want the tree around ? <S> If so, relocate the valves. <S> If you are indifferent about the tree, then cut those roots out, or cut the tree down ! <S> Turn off the water before commencing any work. <A> That one root going under the left valve is not necessary as there are other roots of similar size all around the tree. <S> Cut that one out, above and below the valves/pipes. <S> Leave that big surface one. <S> Did you have a valve box covering the valves ? <S> I have two boxes about 6" apart, 3 valves each. <S> They were put in at ground level,"IN" a flower/shrub/tree bed. <S> They fill with dirt from the bed sprinklers and are full of roots because all the valves drip a little thru the little manual knob when the solenoid opens the valve. <S> Often those knobs drip all the time. <S> I dig the dirt and roots out every 6-8 years. <S> This year, I am adding 3" risers to the existing boxes. <S> They reuse the same lid that was on each. <S> I will try some water proof construction adhesive to try to keep the water/dirt out at the joint where the CARSON BRAND extension sits on the Carson 1015 box. <S> If I ever get another house/yard I will put ALL valves ABOVE GROUND where they can be easily "serviced". <S> I will build fake rock, Statue, some "Yard Art" of some kind, to camouflage (paint all GREEN ?) or completely "hide" the valves. <S> NO MORE UNDERGROUND VALVES ! <S> Lou in Aridzona.
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Before you dive into the roots or replacing valves, consider just checking the valves for simple issues and troubleshooting around those principles. Obviously, laying pipe next to tree roots is asking to have a problem later; don't do that at all.
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