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Why do single electrical receptacles exist? Given that the following are true. They are the same size. They take the same amount of work to install. Doubles are twice as useful. Double adapters are a thing. Why do single electrical receptacles even exist? I was looking at the plans for a house and some of the power points were specified to be singles. Is it a code/standards compliance issue? It can't be to make a house $2 cheaper, they wouldn't be worth manufacturing if that were the case. Someone edited this to say "Receptacles". I assume that's an Americanism?Sounds very odd to me. Standard Australian power points. They're the same size, fit in the same hole, and have the socket in almost the same point. I've seen singles mostly in older houses. I thought maybe doubles used to be more expensive, or maybe they just ran out and put a single in. But then I saw the building's wiring overlay and somebody decided - in the planning stage - that for some reason that point needed to be a single. I know it's of no real importance, but this has been bugging me for years. This is just an average room in an average suburban house. No basement pump. (Cultural note: Australian houses don't have basements. Until recently, we tended to spread out horizontally, not vertically.) There's nothing that would be damaged if the power failed. Except the fridge, and I've never seen a fridge with it's own circuit. We live in a world where these exist. So if single power points are supposed to be the solution to stop people plugging in two devices, someone should rethink that. <Q> There are quite a few reasons to use a single receptacle instead of a duplex receptacle. <S> A few that I know of: Recessed for clock or behind a TV. <S> In this case, it is sometimes easier to use with one centered receptacle instead of top or bottom of a duplex receptacle. <S> Air conditioning, range, dryer or other larger-than-usual circuit (in the US, this means anything <S> > 120V or > 20A). <S> I believe in at least some cases this is a code requirement. <S> Refrigerator or freezer in a GFCI-required area in order to avoid GFCI requirements (subject to local code and AHJ). <S> In this case a second receptacle would be indication of intent to plug in additional devices rather than using a single receptacle for a specific exemption. <S> Cooktop ignition. <S> I have this in my own house. <S> My electrician installed a single receptacle as (a) <S> there is no reason to ever plug in anything else inside the cabinet under the cooktop and (b) he installed it "upside down" - ground pin on top - instead of the more typical (for the US) orientation, for an extra little bit of safety (which would be awkward/confusing elsewhere but for the seldom unplugged cooktop is perfectly fine). <S> The same logic would apply for a single receptacle for a garbage disposal. <S> Specialized sensitive equipment - e.g., medical or computer - to minimize interference from other equipment on the same circuit (e.g., there are devices that will reboot due to voltage drop if a laser printer starts printing on the same circuit, but which will be fine as long as they are on separate circuits - and any time you have an open receptacle it becomes "available" for a printer or vacuum cleaner or whatever). <S> Backup power - if you have a generator or battery backup with limited power then using single receptacles is a way to make sure that only the specified loads are on the automatically transferred circuits. <S> I am sure there are more reasons - if anyone has any good ones, feel free to add to this list (or make your own answer if you prefer). <A> Single receptacles are used for reasons <S> Nobody installs one of these by mistake <S> - they're a lot more expensive, to start with! <S> It may be in a place where GFCI protection is required, but it is appropriate for this individual load to not be GFCI protected. <S> An example is a refrigerator or freezer in a basement or garage. <S> It may be effectively a dedicated circuit, provisioning power to a single large appliance that needs the entire circuit's capacity. <S> An example might be a large window air conditioner, dishwasher, or built-in microwave oven. <S> In these cases, providing only one socket is on purpose . <S> It is to prevent you from using the circuit for anything else. <S> Now, you may know that every room is supposed to have receptacles at certain intervals, (12' in most rooms, 4' on kitchen countertops). <S> These special-purpose receptacles won't count , so you should find a normal receptacle nearby. <A> For example, you might install a single receptacle for a sump pump in the basement. <S> If you install a regular duplex receptacle, someone might use that second receptacle and trip the breaker. <S> Nobody notices and the basement floods because the pump is offline. <S> Other examples where a single receptacle might be a good idea: refrigerator or storage freezer.
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Sometimes a single receptacle is installed to ensure that the circuit is dedicated to a single appliance. When you find one, it has a specific purpose for being there because of a Code requirement for its application.
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Can baseboard trim be used for window and door casing? Why baseboard trims can't be also used as door moldings in rooms? For example, floor molding of size 1/2" x 3-1/4" would perfectly fit as door molding. Are there special requirements for door casings that don't allow use the floor moldings? Thanks. <Q> There's no reason it can't, and my own home is an example, having stained oak base trim around all openings as well as against the floor. <S> I can't say I like it much, and when I update the trim I'll do away with the style, but it's not terrible. <S> However, base trim is usually thinner than casing. <S> This prevents "flush joints" from occurring where base and casing meet. <S> In carpentry, flush joints are to be avoided because it's difficult to achieve perfect alignment in the field. <S> By using a thicker casing, the problem is eliminated. <S> Casing usually has more detail to it, making it more visually interesting. <S> By having different styles for base and casing there's a visual separation. <S> It may look odd to see a continuous run of trim along the wall and over a door unless an ultra-modern style is desired. <S> Base trim is also typically taller than casing. <S> If the same molding is used on windows it can result in a top-heavy appearance. <S> This is a matter of personal taste, of course. <A> The smaller trim nail at the thinner edge helps to pull it tighter to the door... ... and larger casing nails on the outside to secure the trim to the underlying studs... <S> I have worked around many old timer carpenters and had to learn to do it their way. <S> I still prefer the old style professional approach to installing trim and use hand drive nails. <S> However, some choose to use air brad nailers. <S> I don't like these because they allow the trim to move which can cause cracks in the caulking. <S> The most common problem with this method is the wood splits. <S> You can tap the edge of nail with a hammer to dull it <S> and it wont split... <S> Door casing also looks nicer because the design places the focus inward toward the door, as opposed to the plain flat look of floor molding. <S> Standard Zamma Base Molding is about 9/16" thick. <S> Standard Woodgrain Millwork Door Casing can be as thick as 11/16" and <S> Fypon Door Casing which is a very modern look and is an inch thick. <S> Therefore, using baseboard means you will have the same thickness on the floor and around the door, which will look strange. <S> If you are using a pre-painted baseboard; the bottom of the trim is usually not finished because that side is meant to be against the flooring. <S> When you use it as door trim, the bottom would be facing outward. <S> MDF doesn't accept paint very well <S> so you will have to use a primer. <S> After you apply your trim paint, the outside edge will appear different. <S> You would also have to sand it to make it as sooth as the face of the trim will be. <S> Can you use it? <S> Of course. <S> It's your home. <S> I wouldn't suggest it. <S> Most people that go this route eventually change it. <A> Trim usage is definitely open to a matter of owner/user taste. <S> Just the opposite of what you asked in your question the contractors that built my house <S> some 30+ years ago used a door casing style trim for door casing, window casing, baseboard around carpeted areas and even as the edge trim around the top of stub walls that are finished like a shelf. <S> As time goes by and carpet or other flooring gets replaced I an replacing with a more standard baseboard.
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Door casing is designed so that you can use a smaller trim nail on the outside edge of the trim.
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How to keep buried deck posts from rotting This is related to a question I asked earlier regarding my deck footings. I had a pool deck built last fall. The footings are 4' deep and 12" diameter. There are metal post brackets attached to the concrete, and the PT 4x4s are attached to those brackets. The builder only poured the concrete to about 6" below grade. So now my posts are buried about 6" below grade. Well, not exactly buried, as the footings were dug out and left as holes. Those holes filled up with rain and are now my posts are sitting in blocks of ice. I assume I should fill the holes with something in ther spring when the ground thaws. Is there anything I can do to help my wood posts from rotting? I know I need to regrade the area so water drains away from the footings, but I don't know if it's ok for the bottom of the posts to be buried. And if so, what material do i use to fill in the footing holes (sand, crushed stone, gravel, etc)? Should i coat the posts with some type of rubberized sealant to keeo away water? I attached a photo (from the fall, it is all frozen now) for reference. Thank you! <Q> I'm answering from Australia so building practices may be different. <S> I'd call your builder and insist that he come back and install the footings properly. <S> Post brackets are expressly to keep the posts above ground so the bottoms do not rot. <S> Installing them below ground is not a very good idea. <S> Edit <S> This need not be a difficult fix <S> but it is my strong view <S> it is the builder's responsibility. <S> I'd wait for a time when the ground is reasonably dry. <S> It will be a pain in the butt. <S> Instead of replacing the footings: <S> Support the deck on jacks / trusses. <S> Dig out around each post footing until the top of the existing footing and the bracket is exposed. <S> Unbolt the cut end of the post from the existing bracket. <S> Obtain and, to the top of the existing bracket - bottom of the post, bolt an extension bracket. <S> If some diligent fossicking at the local hardware store does not turn something suitable up <S> you may need to get them fabricated. <S> They should be externally and internally galvanised(a). <S> Into the existing footing drill 4 x 5/8" holes at a 6" pitch ~12" deep. <S> Smack a 2'(b) length of 5/8" rebar into each hole. <S> Box the top of the existing footing to the appropriate height. <S> Apply concrete. <S> When cured release the support jacks(c). <S> a. <S> This is a must. <S> Copper Arsenate is a typical pressure treatment. <S> In direct contact with steel (iron), depending on the pH of your soil, weird electrolytic things can happen. <S> b. <S> The top of the rebar should be ~2" below the new top of the footing. <S> 2' is a guestimate. <S> Adjust appropriately. <S> c. Take some care with this. <S> The post bracket extension must be installed firm so that the deck does not sag when the support is released. <S> You may need to shim. <S> A small piece of fibre cement sheet works a treat. <S> Good luck. <A> I would not use sand or rock the hole will hold water, I might clean the holes out this summer and fill with fresh concrete to above grade. <S> I put fence posts in with this method (just concrete around the post and sloped away from the post) and they last 20 year's or more. <A> Pressure treated 4x4's will last a very long time like that, but it's still not ideal. <S> You can use Blueskin Image from Home Depot website <S> www.homedepot.com <S> it's a rubberized membrane, super strong. <S> I always use the primer for it as well <S> but I'm not sure if it's required. <S> if done properly it will certainly keep it dry. <S> You can also pour concrete higher. <S> Support the deck, cut off the post, slide a new sonotube over the existing concrete, attach a new post bracket to the bottom of the post, pour concrete up to it, remove the sonotube and Blueskin around the joint. <A> You can treat the posts with a preservative but sooner or later they will probably rot in such wet soil. <S> Unless you dig up the posts annually to inspect, you probably won't know they're rotten until the deck starts to sink. <S> So it's probably best to just fix them sooner rather than later. <S> This would involve building a temporary support around the post, cutting the post short, adding a post base to the post, and building the concrete up to meet the bottom of the post - a lot of work.
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Cut off the bottom of the post at the desired height, 4" - 6" above grade, or in line with local best practice .
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Ideas for plugging a hole in granite vanity I got a nice piece of granite for cheap, and I am almost ready to mount it on the new vessel is actually smaller than the dimensions! See below: Any suggestions? Ideally I want to find a sink that will fully cover the hole, but so far my searches on Amazon.ca (I am in Canada) don't look promising - they are mostly curved and apparently just like the one in pictures, the dimensions mentioned are of the top part, not of the base! I am not sure if the largest one I found so far would cover it fully in the base... Edit:To explain why top mount and undermount is not suitable: the vanity its supposed to mount on(unfinished, unpainted yet): <Q> Find a sink that you like with a slightly larger dimension and cut the granite to fit. <S> With the right tools it's very easy and obviously you need to be careful. <S> The only expensive item you need is a grinder. <S> The others are a big sponge, bucket, diamond grinder wheel and water. <S> It's a bit messy <S> so I'd do it outside. <S> 1 get your sink. <S> 2 confirm that it is suitable. <S> 3 measure and mark by scratching in the surface of the granite 4 on a flat surface shimed up for blade clearance, grinder in hand and sponge in the other. <S> Wet soak the sponge and use it to keep the blade wet as you grind. <S> (if you get help a hose will work) <S> Cut in from the opening to the line all around then cut on the line to knock off the pieces. <S> 5 check for fit, trim if necessary and clean up. <S> I've done this before and it took about 20 minutes to do the actual cutting. <S> I'm sure you can find videos online. <A> You may be trying to solve an X-Y type problem. <S> Have you tried going to a granite shop and pricing a suitable sized slab of granite top that does not have a hole? <S> You may find that the high prices charged for some special sink that can cover the hole is reasonably offset by the cost of a more reasonably priced sink. <A> about a 30 degree slope connecting the sink to the counter. <S> I used plastic because that is what I could shape the easiest, but you may be able to use wood, metal, granite, or even putty. <S> Scrap granite from trimming the countertop was my second choice. <S> Failing that you might have to go with a large raised vessel sink.
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I had a similar problem for a shop sink in my lab and came up with a odd solution, I used the sink I had but used spacers to raise it about an inch above the counter top, then I cut a 2 part plastic adapter fitting that made a sloped connection between the two.
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Will an outlet adapter installed in a motion sensor light be constantly hot? I am wanting to add a plug in outlet to one side of my dual motion light sensor. Is this outlet only gong to work when the sensor light comes on? Or will it have a constant electrical feed? <Q> If I understand correctly, you'd like to screw a plug adapter into one of the bulb sockets on your flood light. <S> If so, here are the caveats that come to mind: <S> It would use the same electrical contacts that the bulb would. <S> There will be a current limitation that you could easily violate by plugging other devices into the light socket. <S> The socket and its connected wiring are designed only for the current load of light bulbs up to the maximum listed wattage. <S> In the case of a 75 watt flood lamp, that's less than one amp. <S> The wiring may be fine up to say 5 amps, but we can't know for sure, and you open yourself up to smoky outcomes if someone else comes along and plugs a table saw into it. <S> In general, it's not a good idea. <A> Yes, that will be fine. <S> Those 2-light sensors are packaged units that get supplied always-hot. <S> You can tap that. <A> You should turn off the breaker before doing any work. <S> Most flood lights have a interior wall switch that regulates when they work or not. <S> For wiring an external weather rated receptacle that is GFCI protected and accessible, you probably should put the GFCI in the panel as a breaker ( not always a DIY job ). <S> Per 2017 NEC the GFCI should be accessible. <S> When wiring the the GFCI protected receptacle to the light, you should see a black, red, white, and ground. <S> The black wire would be pig-tailed to supply the permanent power.
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The outlet will only be live when the adjacent bulb is lit. Used with caution, it could work for a short run of holiday lights, for example, without issue.
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How to install a safety barrier-post in garage, between house and vehicle On the other side of the wall, in front of where my vehicle is parked, is my bedroom. Would like to install something similar to what you would see at store fronts that have parking spaces near the entrance. Usually looks like 4' high, round pole, that goes into the concrete, something like this . Is this something that can be done by someone who has never done this but is handy? ...or what profession would do this work? <Q> You can rent a core drill for under 200 dollars including the dimond bit. <S> You would need to make a substantially larger diameter hole than the pipe because you need concrete around it, not just in it. <S> This is a picture of a very serious bollard <S> https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/creating-a-bollard_o <S> If you are really worried about a teen driver or similar crashing into your bed, go with the example in the picture. <S> Most of the bolt down ones are just for show unless, you get some really serious anchors bolting down through a very thick peice of metal and deep into the concrete spread out on a large bolt pattern. <A> If you are handy and have a hammer drill, You could do it with the Hammer drill and a masonry drill bit to drill the holes for the anchors, and then use 1/2 inch <S> Strong Bolt STB2-50512 Wedge Anchor 1/2-Inch by 5-1/2-Inch in the concrete to bolt the bollard down. <S> The length of the anchors will depend on the thickness of the concrete slab , if you have a thick slab then use longer anchors for more strength . <S> Surface mounts are not going to be as beefy as core mounted <S> but it will stop a car that is not moving to fast. <S> I have seen this method used for safety in front of boilers and water heaters in a garage. <S> If you can get a bollard that has a wider base plate that will add strength/beefy-ness. <S> Yea, i said beefyness. <S> or something like <S> this beefy guard <A> Usually looks like 4' high, round pole, that goes into the concrete, something like this. <S> Those are called bollards. <S> Is this something that can be done by someone who has never done this but is handy? <S> If that handy person happens to own a large core drilling rig. <S> ...or what profession would do this work? <S> Commercial parking lot paving contractors, some commercial general contractors. <A> It would be a whole lot easier to put this type of vehicle barrier along the floor of the garage at the extreme position of where the tires of the vehicle would go. <S> Rubber ones may just need to be pinned in place. <S> (Picture Source: <S> http://www.speedbumpsandhumps.com/premium-rubber-wheelstops?st-t=sbhgoogshop&gclid=CjwKCAiAnsnjBRB6EiwATkM1XlyFCNWpi49_YaWumjP4MSDC-mx7acSCQEkBYTXZQ0dg58JYt69O_RoCGR0QAvD_BwE ) <S> (Picture Source: http://www.mosesinsurance.com/blog/entryid/9194/car-vs-parking-barrier-pic-of-the-week )
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Concrete versions of these can be secured in place with construction adhesive and if desired a couple of short lengths of re-bar drilled down into the garage slab. I do not think you want the possibility of this happening in your garage. You do not need a large core drilling rig if you get surface mounted bollards. Would like to install something similar to what you would see at store fronts that have parking spaces near the entrance. A reasonable compromise with a fair amount of stopping power would be 2" pipe in a 6" hole at least a couple of feet deep.
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What is the industry term for house wiring diagrams? I am doing electrical work in my own home. Primarily replacing old sockets and fixtures. Through the course of this work I am finding odd, but not unsafe, wiring paths. I want to document these paths so that I can develop a plan to improve them. I also want to document my own work to help the next guy who does work in my house. What is the diagramming style or name for the plan that an electrician would use in a residential home in the US? I want to know what this is called so that I can then tell myself, "I need to make a $TERM diagram". I can then acquire the right rulers, templates, and graph paper to make those diagrams. <Q> The correct term is an Electrical Plan. <S> I used Smart Draw when I remodeled my home. <S> It's a great tool and there are several templates you can choose from to begin editing. <S> Its pretty cheap to use. <A> tl;dr <S> " Electrical Plan " or " Wiring Plan " A wiring diagram or electrical schematic usually shows each connection using sometimes cryptic industry symbols and with no routing information. <S> They may be too detailed for your purposes, and they wouldn't show how the cables run through the building. <S> Example: <S> This may be what you're describing. <S> Example: <A> On the commercial side with call them "as-built"s or "redlines" I've never seen an equivalent when doing resi. <S> One generally ropes houses in the easiest/fastest manner while maintaining electrical safety, code standard, and good workmanship. <S> In practical terms it means the usually the most direct / shortest route between devices on a circuit, while maintaining a neat appearance or the wiring. <S> Typical house wiring is simple and straightforward enough that one doesn't need to mark EXACTLY how that particular run was routed. <A> I'm not a electrician in the US <S> and I'm not sure if there is an official type of drawing for what you have described <S> but I use these for the most part <S> This is a screenshot returned from a google search for "schematic" https://www.google.ca/search?schematic <S> I have seen some slightly different versions of the symbols on schematics from China. <S> This is an example of one <S> https://www.drbijli.com/know-it/know-your-home-electrical-system/ <S> it's not the best schematic if ever seen <S> but it gets the idea across. <S> You wouldn't need to learn many of the symbols either because mostly you need switches, lights and recepticals. <A> Home wiring is generally not very specific as noted by @isherwood . <S> My house even less specific as the local code requires nothing smaller than 12ga , so it was unnecessary to list any gage. <S> Even 220 V lines to various points are unspecified. <S> Possibly because I drew them myself ( long story). <S> I just drew in many lines; after it was wired ,the electrician told me he never ran so much wire in a house. <S> If one had very specific plans , one would not have the fun of turning off the breakers to find what circuit went where.
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There are a set of standard drawings to identify all elements of a system clearly that are universal at least in North American. An electrical plan or wiring plan would simply show how the cables run through the building and what each cable's specs are (14/3, 10/2, etc.), possibly along with device notes (outlets, switches, utility appliances, etc.), and without showing each individual connection.
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Building an exterior wall within an exterior wall for insulation I just purchased a 1925 beautiful home that is stucco on the outside and old plaster on the inside. I have some carpentry experience and am realizing the incredible loss f heat to the exterior walls. There is ample space in each of the rooms in the house so I am contemplating ways to insulate. It seems blow in is too dangerous because of moisture issues. I am considering building new 2x4 insulated walls within the existing exterior walls. What do you think? <Q> I wouldn’t. <S> You can create moisture and mold problems, much less drastically change the size and character of the interior of your home. <S> Adding an insulated wall on the interior of your home will change the “perm” rating of your exterior wall. <S> Perm rating is important because it controls the flow of VAPOR through the wall. <S> When vapor travels through the wall, it changes from a vapor to a liquid. <S> If this liquid gets trapped in the wall, it will create rot and mold. <S> Here is an article that explains it better. <S> All materials have a perm rating... <S> even a coat of paint. <S> Here’s an article that lists some materials and explains it better. <S> Adding additional materials could trap moisture within the two walls and create rot and mold. <S> If you’re trying to save heat and reduce your heating costs, I’d concentrate on 1) adding insulation in your attic, 2) sealing drafts around windows and doors, etc., and then 3) insulate your exterior walls. <S> Heat rises, so concentrating on the ceiling makes sense. <S> (The Department of Energy has a website that explains this.) <S> Drafts will lower the room temperature dramatically and keep your furnace working. <S> Yes, due to the age of your home, I doubt if they have any insulation in your exterior walls. <S> Adding insulation and getting thermal windows (or storm windows) will help...but not as much as 1) and 2). <S> (Besides, a new 2x4 wall is not that thick <S> so you won’t be able to add much insulation.) <A> While this plan might offer great energy benefits, there are a number of drawbacks: <S> Obviously you eat a lot of floor space (8" or more in both directions). <S> In a 10' by 12' room you lose almost 8% of your area. <S> In small rooms like entries and bathrooms this may be prohibitive. <S> All window and door openings will need to be extended, meaning double-deep jambs and casing replacement. <S> All electrical boxes will need to be moved out or extended. <S> All cabinetry and shelving will need to be heavily modified or replaced, including any integral plumbing. <S> All base trim will need to be removed and reinstalled or replaced. <A> Houses built in that period (in Germany) by good chance have a single void in their outer wall insulating better than those same size walls built some decades earlier. <S> Filling this void with a modern insulating material might improve insulation by more than 100%. <S> You could solve this problem using CaSiO3 as insulation material. <S> It takes thrice the space you'd need for usual modern insulation material, making your rooms smaller and shouldn't be sealed with wallpapers but painted with mineral colors only. <S> Whenever you insulate a part of your nice old house other parts will do the liquid exchange. <S> So don't do to much for it might ruin the house. <S> Your house has been built with a certain concept of heating. <S> Trying to change that can be problematic. <S> Not changing it by good chance is best for you and your house. <S> (I had to deal with an ANNO 1900 house.) <S> (Of course I was writing about calcium silicate insulation and not about the mineral ) Blessings!
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An insulation added to your walls from inside the rooms might cause big problems shifting the dew point to the inner side of the wall letting mold grow. Depending on where you live, vapor will travel from the inside out (northern climates) or from the outside in (southern climates) or both ways (middle climates). All freestanding plumbing fixtures would need to be relocated, such as toilets and tubs.
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Drywall Gap Too Big To Tape I am wondering if this gap is too big to tape and mud over. The house is over 100 years old and the walls are not quite straight to say the least. The opposite wall is relatively square btw. It gap is about an inch at the top and tapers to nothing. <Q> You'll need to trim the one flange to less than the depth of the gap. <S> Skim the bead out 8-12". <S> This will leave you with a very nice, straight edge that you can caulk or grout the tile to without adding a clumsy visual transition. <A> Even small piece of PVC quarter-round (or similar) would be an improvement. <S> One option to fill it is to cut one or more strips of drywall that you can get in there. <A> Any decorative molding can be used to cover the gap.
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I'd lay some sort of filler strip that's the same thickness as the drywall and then put some sort of decorative strip on the unfinished edge of the tile. I think I'd lay in some half-inch filler and nail on a corner bead, 1/8" from the tile. It doesn't need to be perfect, just bring the gaps down to what you can fill with joint-compound.
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If a living quarter is built in a basement, is 5/8 drywall required on that ceiling? I am constructing a home where the owner is having a complete living quarter installed in the basement for an older relative. Just needed to see if it required 5/8 drywall on ceiling. Also, wondering if the door going from basement steps to upper living area requires a fire rated door. <Q> 5/8" drywall is rarely required in single-family residences. <S> You can certainly use no-sag 1/2" if you like. <S> If your joists are 16" on center, standard half inch may be fine, by I don't know why you'd risk it for the minimal upcharge. <S> If this is a rental situation, check with your local building authority on both counts. <A> For single family and double family occupancies (duplexes), no Fire rating is required between units. <S> So, no fire rated gypsum board, doors, etc. are required. <S> (See ICC Chapter 3) <S> As of 2017 any tri-plex or larger requires fire separation AND fire sprinklers. <S> (Yes, fire sprinklers... <S> I can hear the groans from here.) <S> The sprinklers can be “residential grade”, but they are required. <S> (Residential grade allows you to feed each sprinkler head from the nearest water source, I.e.: kitchen sink, bathtub, etc. <S> The sprinklers don’t need a separate water line into the house like in commercial projects.) <S> BTW, don’t forget the fire separation between the garage and this space, egress window from your new sleeping room and smoke detector at new sleeping room door. <A> John Six, are you from Toronto? <S> If you are and are concerned about fire code for a rental, beware. <S> For a relative it's totally fine to build it as a single family dwelling. <S> If there is rent involved then the firecode is insane. <S> In that case it's actually a double layer 5/8 <S> x rated drywall (not the good x-rated, the fire resistant x-pensive kind) on the ceiling, and the walls if the neighbours are within 3', fire rated doors, alternate egress, separate HVAC systems and many other considerations. <S> It's not uncommon for a 50k basement as a single family dwelling to jump to 150k. <S> I currently have a job on hold because a guy wanted a 5 unit building reno <S> and he didn't believe us (myself and the plumber) that it would cost 3-5 times of other projects he had done for single family. <S> But tread lightly when it comes to multi dwelling.
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A fire-rated door is also probably not required. I'd recommend that you take as many precautions to protect from fire as is practical. It was used historically because ceiling joists are often 24" on center, and 5/8 resists sag.
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Connect two thermostats in parallel I saw a thread about connecting two thermostats in parallel.I could not add comment to that thread, so I put question here. My tenants always shut off thermostat or reduce temp when they are not in their unit during winter time. It has caused several pipe to become frozen and cause a flood, though I told them many times. They just want to save money for heating. Now based on that thread, it seems that we could connect two thermostats in parallel. I am not sure whether it could meet my requirement. What I want to do is: on the other side of the wall (with one thermostat), I add another one (that the tenants could not see), I connect them in parallel. Once the colder months come (in our state from September to April), legal requirement is to set temp at 64 F or above. In my side, I set heating on and set temp to 64 F, to the tenant's side, even they turn off thermostat or reduce temp below 64 F , their thermostat could not do anything unless they increase temp to 64 F or above. Do the parallel connections for both thermostats work that way? Thanks.rose <Q> Smart 'stats like the Nest might have a problem with it. <S> Operationally, a building that is so sensitive to pipe freeze is a nightmare. <S> Less because of the inevitable tenant squabble (but that too), and more because that also means your house will not last long after a power failure. <S> You should be able to lose power for a day+ before pipe freeze becomes an issue. <S> Legally you are able to oblige your tenant to heat enough to prevent pipe freeze, but 65 is a pretty high bar. <S> I would not want to try to explain to a judge why my house couldn't handle 50. <S> The way that would end up playing in court is looking like you're just wasting energy because somebody else is paying for it. <S> I think the judge would say that's as wrong as when a tenant does it. <S> The tricky mechanical enforcement would only antagonize and get a harsher judgment. <S> Wouldn't want to be defending that. <A> In 1982 I had a somewhat similar problem while renting an upstairs apartment. <S> Our downstairs neighbors had the thermostat in their apt and used to leave for the weekend and turn the thermostat down when they left. <S> I investigated the furnace in the basement and found the wire to the thermostat, patched into it in parallel with a thermostat mounted on the wall in our upstairs apt. <S> The way it worked was either would turn the furnace on, as long as it was set above the actual room temperature. <S> Once both thermostats have their set temperature met the furnace turned off. <A> You can also use heat tape around any pipes that are likely to freeze, and insulate any pipes in under-insulated areas. <S> Finally, not all thermostats have an off setting. <S> Compare this Honeywell thermostat, which has an explicit off setting with this thermostat <S> which only goes down to 40 degrees. <S> While 40 degrees isn't great for a building, it's a lot better than not having heat at all. <A> Legal issues aside... <S> if there are any... <S> The thermostat on your side will be detecting your side's ambient temp, not their side's. <S> So their side will be getting heat whenever (and only when) your side does. <S> If the two sides are more-or-less equal in terms of their thermal properties (heat loss rates, etc.) <S> it should work reasonably well. <A> I would think you could get a thermostat that you can control remotely - like a Nest or other WiFi-enabled device. <S> That way, the tenants can still control things at the unit itself, but you could override their settings if desired. <S> There maybe some available that also allow settings of general rules like 'temperature setting cannot exceed xx degrees'. <A> Simple: Buy an Ecobee and set it up to your account. <S> Disclose to them that you are to have control of the Ecobee remotely via web page or your phone's app. <S> You will need to edit (ammend, and have them sign/initial) <S> your rental contract stating you are in charge of what the minimum temp allowed is, you may have some unhappy tenant(s) <S> and then you are liable for paying a percentage of their heat bill which is not very easy to calculate in these situations, so just a discount in rent that month may be an option. <S> The Ecobee allows you to set minimum allowable temps, so you could make it <S> so they just can't take the temps below x degrees. <S> This is much cheaper than having pipes burst. <S> But then again it sounds like you could have things re-piped <S> with Pex-A and have this issue already solved without needing more energy use.
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A "freeze protection outlet" will let you plug a small heater (and/or alarm) in, and will only activate if the temperature dips to a dangerous level. Electrically, there is no problem with it as long as you are using simple thermostats.
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Who should I call for a roof drain leak? We have a balcony above our garage attached to the house, that is surrounded by 3 stucco walls and has a drain in the middle that leads into our garage. Example of random balcony with drain similar to ours. The leak has created a hole in the dry wall below it. I cut a sqare of the drywall and discovered the leak is coming from the drain itself. Around the edge of the drain, water glides along the PVC pipe that goes toward the front of the house onto the dry wall. My question is are as follows: Who usually fixes this type of problem? Plumber? Handy Man, Roofer? What is the typical way they seal this type of leak? It was suggested to me that tar is the best option. <Q> Water test around the drain right at the pipe with a little water running just at the drain only, keep on moving the water source a little bit to the outside of the drain until you get it to leak again to pinpoint your hole, then you will have a better idea who you need to fix the problem. <S> If it is around the drain it will be caulking with a type of silicone if it is getting between the drain and the roof membranes. <S> it has a lot to do with what type of roof systems is on there now if it is leaking out away from the drain. <S> There are different types of flat roof systems if the roof is small enough under 20 ft wide there are one pc rubber roof made by Good year and last a lifetime that will have no seems and will never leak again. <S> This same type of membrane I have used over 30 years and never a problem, and I have also applied for pond liners and lakes. <S> When you add layers over and make several seems there will always be that chance of a seem leaking if the seems fails <S> and then you will have to start over. <S> The less seems, the better. <S> Roofers would do the roof membranes, where some roofers also do decking if needed, if it has leaked for a while, then there may be some rotted decking. <S> Find the source of where the leak is coming from to know who to call to fix the problem. <S> The membrane should also put on with a drain just like a shower drain where the membrane is locked tight on top of the drain with bolts as the membrane is cut with a hole in it only at the drain opening where it can not leak. <A> This seems to be most in line with the expertise of a roofer. <S> I would consider this setup similar to that of a flat roof, which also have to have drains. <S> If flat roofs are not very common for residential structures in your area, you may be better of calling a roofer who works on commercial properties, which seems more likely to use flat roofs. <A> Things like this (tile balcony decks) are often built with a system (like Schluter), of which the drain is an integrated component. <S> I think the suggestion from the roofing company to contact a decking company (really, probably a quality tile contractor) is the way to go. <S> It might be possible to do a quick fix that might not hold up in the long run, or you might have a more invasive repair. <A> It depends on how much you want to spend and what aesthetic you require. <S> How rainy is your climate? <S> Are you in love with the tile as your deck floor. <S> My preference is for torch on roof systems for deck membranes. <S> These membranes last > 30 years. <S> Vinyl (has a 5 year warranty), fiberglass (too rigid and cracks), schleuter systems outside are not going to hold up long term. <S> If it was me and <S> I was planning to say in the house > 15 years, <S> I'd rip out the tile <S> replace whatever membrane is there with torch on normally <S> the torch on is torched up the wall and the siding covers that lap (not sure how easy it is to remove your siding) cover the torch on with composite wood decking on rubber shims
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I would say a roofer if it is on the roof are decking.
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Did unfinished attics serve a functional purpose in old houses? I do a lot of work with detached, wood-framed houses built in the United States between 1850 and 1920. Almost all of them have a walk-up attic that was not finished originally. In some cases the attics are now finished and used as living or working space, but it's clear (based on the finishing materials and styles) that the finishing was done well after the house was originally built. Most of these attics offer significant floorspace (usually at least 500 square feet), they were built using rafters (so there is plenty of open space inside the attic) and the attics are easily accessible from the other levels of the houses using staircases. This leaves me wondering why the original builders/homeowners would not have finished their attics in order to make them spaces that you could use for living. If you have all that space sitting at the top of your house, why would you not have spent a little more time or money to make it a conditioned, finished space like the rest of the house? Is there a functional reason why attics were not finished in old houses? Maybe it has to do with lack of insulation, for instance, so they needed the attic as a buffer zone between finished spaces and the roof? Or was it purely a cultural thing (maybe they wanted the attic as storage space)? I'm asking this mostly out of curiosity, but also because I'm thinking of finishing the still-unfinished attic in my 1903 house, so I'm wondering if I'd be creating any functional issues by turning it into finished space. <Q> Not functional, but cost. <S> Roofs have slopes to drain water and slough snow. <S> It's the nature of their design that there's a hollow below. <S> Since the finished space is relatively small, and since it costs more to build a floor robust enough to carry people and furniture, and since it costs more to finish the space and insulate and add (larger) windows, and since the space was useful as storage without being finished, and since people back then were happy with less space and fewer things , they didn't bother. <S> An indirect benefit to an attic, as opposed to a completely open roof cavity, was that it didn't need to be heated. <S> Lower ceilings keep heat down where the human inhabitants are. <S> Drainage (and to a lesser extent, style) were the main drivers. <A> I see lots of houses of that same vintage. <S> You do see some houses built with unfinished attics, no floors, no fixed stairs, but not many. <S> In cold climates you see lots of house styles that incorporated the attic space beneath the sloped roof as living space - adding dormers, knee walls, etc. <S> - Craftsman style houses, <S> Cape Cod style, etc. <S> I think you see these styles more in denser development, <S> more houses in less acreage. <S> I think when you see the half finished attics - fixed stairs and floors but no walls etc. <S> - they made sense then for the same reason they do now. <S> In most climates it won't be comfortable year round living space - too hot in the summer. <S> In modern times it's usable thanks to air conditioning, but it wasn't back then. <S> Before plywood, OSB, and drywall, finishing it would have been more expensive. <S> If you have the space on the lot you're better off building enlarging the footprint of the house - building out rather than up. <S> However, for the cost of the flooring and a staircase, it was worth it for storage. <S> In chemistry in high school <S> I learned that one of the properties of an ideal gas is that no matter how big of a container you put it in, it would expand to fill the entire container. <S> (Or something like that, heh.) <S> I have noticed that a lot of things are like an ideal gas, one is people in houses. <S> They always want more space. <S> At some point in the life of the house, someone wants more space, and finishing the attic is going to be the easiest way. <S> In urban / dense places, there's little choice - no room for an addition. <S> Even when there is, it's far more work to build an addition than to finish attic space. <S> No footers, foundation, and floor to build. <S> With air conditioning and good insulation, the space can be made livable year round. <A> Because back then, people weren't so obsessed with "finishing out". <S> Not only did they leave the attics unimproved, they left the basements unimproved! <S> Can you imagine!? <S> Real estate market prices and speculation were not beyond insane like they are today. <S> Flipping wasn't really a thing. <S> AirBnB didn't exist. <S> There wasn't a mad dash to turn every possible square foot of the home into additional square feet <S> you could claim on a realty listing. <S> One very good reason was the concept of utility space . <S> The idea that a home ought to have internal utilities, like water and electricity, and you ought to be able to get where you need to access them without having to bust out a ton of drywall to do anything at all . <S> Also, in the 1870-1930 era, new utilities were coming out pretty regularly - indoor plumbing, electricity, telephone, gas. <S> They never knew what would come next, and why seal it off? <A> In that time period two historical events might have contributed. <S> The Civil War and the Great Depression. <S> Two times in history when jobs were few and times were hard. <S> Most people barely had money to eat. <S> Finishing that extra space would have taken away from the necessities. <S> This answer might be dependent on region.
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Obviously there's some energy efficiency to be gained by having enclosed attics above a ceiling in an uninsulated home, but that's not the primary reason attics were built.
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Bridging Neutral and ground in a Light Switch I changed my bathroom light switch for a Occupancy Sensor Switch but it would not turn off. Since the package said Ground Wire Required I figured it was a ground issue. The location has wiring from 1962 so I tested the switch in a newer location and it worked fine. Instead of connecting the Green Ground screw to the ground wires in the box I tied it in with the neutral wires and it works fine now. Its the only switch in the box and no other wires in there. Can I leave it like this or is it a hazard? <Q> That's actually terrible. <S> You bootlegged neutral and that is something you should not do anywhere. <S> I gather at the time you bought the switch, you didn't know that. <S> Most likely what is happening is <S> the switch is a smart switch which requires neutral to power its internal electronics. <S> And either a) this is cheap Cheese junk direct shipped from Shenzhen (possibly via an Amazon Fulfillment Center) <S> that has never received a bona-fide UL listing and is not safe, or is one of the cases where UL authorized use of the ground to serve the part of neutral. <S> The latter is done so the switch will work in locations that do have ground <S> but don't have neutral. <S> NFPA has told them to stop approving that. <S> So, ironically, you have done an unauthorized bootleg of an authorized bootleg, bringing it full circle, right back to manufacturer intent. <S> So what's the problem? <S> If this neutral wire has a problem, it is a guarantee that the grounded parts of this switch (like the cover screws) will be energized at 120V. <S> Now we hope the UL listing was predicated on the idea that the switch can't leak enough current to kill anyone. <S> We hope. <S> My recommendation would be to remove this switch, reuse it somewhere else <S> you have ground but not neutral ( <S> assuming it is not mail-order rubbish), and fit a "neutral required, ground not required" switch here. <A> Many electronic devices use the ground for a "handshake" or "acknowledge" ping. <S> This is not the intent of the use of a grounding conductor per the NEC, but is used in electronic equipment since it they are not regulated and don't seem to care. <S> Your situation is not uncommon. <S> You might search out for another sensor that doesn't require a ground or install new wiring for that circuit at your earliest convenience. <A> In certain situations this is allowed by the NEC
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It would have been much wiser to choose a switch that requires neutral since you do indeed have neutral in that box. The problem is Neutral still is not Ground. I can't say that what you are doing is 100% ok, but it does seem to make the sensor work.
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Is There a DIY Way of Fitting This Attachment to My Bathroom Tap? I want to attach this shower hose attachment to my bathroom tap. It's a two-way system that lets you use the water through the tap or the shower head. Unfortunately the sizes don't match. The hose has M22 and M24 attachments, and the tap thread has a 2cm diameter. I've checked all the plumber and bathroom suppliers, and none have any adapters for this. I also cannot replace the tap since I'm renting. I have also looked into getting a different hose that would fit, and that does not exist either! So the only option that's coming to my mind is to patch this to make it work somehow. Obviously permanent glue/epoxy is not an option either. So any suggestions or tips would be tremendously appreciated. This is a similar problem I previously had in another apartment, but now the size and the whole tap is different. Please see the photos there if it helps resolving any ambiguities. <Q> You have obviously tried to no avail at hardware stores and the like. <S> Somewhere adapters are available but sometimes it's exhausting to locate them. <S> There are rubberized couplings for small diameter pipe similar to rubber drain couplings. <S> Here's an example of a 3/4 inch one. <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-3-4-in-PVC-Flexible-Coupling-P1056-075/100187989 <A> A machine shop would be able to build the adapter on a lathe, either CNC or manually, in short order, but it's likely to be expensive. <S> Another option is to use a 3D modeling program to design the adapter, based on the thread information and diameters required, then use an online service such as Shapeways to have the adapter 3D printed in metal. <S> None of these methods are particularly inexpensive, some are DIY if one has a lathe (unlikely in an apartment, I know) <S> but you also would want to see if there are makerspaces in your area. <S> The comment regarding threads not present would apply if a photo of the inside showed only smooth metal, but I did not make that assumption. <S> I've used hose adapters for similar projects. <S> It's a piece of thick walled rubber tubing with clamps at each end. <S> Slid part way up the faucet pipe and tightened, the other end takes your threaded segment and is also clamped securely. <S> Not particularly attractive, but quite functional and removable. <A> There are many, many, many aerator thread adapters available; in all different sizes. <S> There most certainly exists the right one for you, you just have not found it yet. <S> I would travel to a reputable and highly recommended plumbing shop (note- <S> a plumbing shop is distinctly different then either a "big-box" hardware supplier or a hardware store) . <S> There you are likely to find a thread gauge specifically for aerators and spouts and a multitude of adapters.
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If you can determine the threads of the end of the faucet, that one piece of information will allow you to commission an adapter to be constructed.
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2 breakers - should they work as one? I have a circuit with 2 15 amp breakers. They don’t act, individually they both have to be shut off to shut off the circuits. Am I looking for an outlet with two devices? Example switch and outlet?The breakers used to break individually, but something happened in the circuit to join the breaker, I have replaced the breaker but the problem is still there. I think it maybe somewhere in the house joining the two circuits, but how do I troubleshoot it. I flipped the two circuits and found all the outlets and lights that are on those circuits, but I thought one outlet might be common to both circuits and shorting them together. It is a house in the state of Washington. <Q> Assuming this is in the USA, 120V system, there are generally two possibilities: 240V circuit A dryer, range, air conditioner or other large appliance will use a 240V circuit, which will be implemented in the breaker panel as a pair of breakers - one on each "leg". <S> However, that is normally for 30A or more. <S> I can't think of any reasons to bother with 240V that wouldn't also use more power. <S> So 15A x 2 is much more likely to be... <S> MultiWire Branch Circuit MWBC <S> This uses two breakers, each controlling a single hot wire and sharing a neutral . <S> The breakers need to be tied together for common shutoff . <S> Because US wiring does not normally have breakers on the neutral wire, without common shutoff you could turn off the breaker on one circuit in order to work on it but if there is any usage of the second circuit then there would be current flowing through the shared neutral wire, which would be a major safety hazard. <S> Where are MWBCs? <S> They could be anywhere. <S> A typical use is to have one hot power the top receptacle and the other hot power the bottom receptacle in a series of duplex receptacles. <S> and, from the perspective of the person using the receptacle (plugging in a toaster or radio or vacuum cleaner or whatever) it looks and functions no differently than an ordinary circuit. <A> You're talking about two separate functions: common trip and common maintenance shutoff . <S> Mains power has a neutral wire, and one or more "hot" poles . <S> Most outlets and lights tap between neutral and a pole. <S> Some high-power devices like tap pole to pole because they work better on higher voltage (to be more precise, less current so lower voltage drop .) <S> Some devices use multiple poles and neutral also. <S> As it works out, with up to 3 poles, the neutral will not carry more than the busiest pole. <S> Our bailiwick in the DIY stack is residential. <S> North American power always provides two poles , arranged opposite (180 degrees) <S> so their voltages add up. <S> Europe <S> /Asia usually supplies 1 pole but can supply 2 or all 3 if the need is there. <S> When a device takes 2 or more poles, both hots have common maintenance shutoff , and here's why: even if the multi-pole circuit serves all line-neutral loads, a maintainer might plug a radio into one outlet and flip off breakers until the radio stops, and deem the circuit safe. <S> Then get nailed by the neutral or the other hot. <S> In some cases common trip is also required for safety. <S> Common trip mechanisms are not the obvious handle-tie; they use internal mechanisms within the breaker. <S> Accessory "Handle Ties" can be obtained that will allow ganging individual breakers for common maintenance shutoff . <S> These do not guarantee common trip. <S> When you see a 2-pole breaker, you are dealing with (in North America) <S> a 240V-only appliance like an air conditioner or water heater; a 240V/120V appliance like a dryer or range/oven <S> (120V for the oven light) <S> a "multi-wire branch circuit" where all the loads are hot-neutral <S> , they just share neutral to save wire. <A> What is the circuit? <S> This example im providing is common practice on ships since the power is a delta system and is derived across two legs of the transformer. <S> However in such a system there isnt any neutral but the power inductively couples the ships hull. <S> In this case it was common to read 60VAC from any leg of the transformer to the hull of the ship. <S> So if there was a fault and only one leg popped, there is a chance someone can get electrocuted from the low leg of the device being powered, hence the need to provide a breaker on both legs. <S> Hope this helps!
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If you have for example a power system where you derive your voltage across two legs and not a leg to neutral it could be the case where you fuse both legs to ensure no current flows in the event of a fault. But really they could be anywhere (including receptacles, lights, etc.)
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Is my plan for fixing my water heater leak bad? Here is the situation (with pics): See that pan on the bottom? The hole in it is covered by tape. So here is what I was gonna do. Is this a good idea? First. I've gone out and purchased a new pan for the bottom. I also purchased a round piece of wood exactly the same size as the pan and 6 bricks and the hose you see connected to the drain. My plan was to turn off the water and gas lines. Drain the thing using the hose. Then hopefully, If I loosen up the restraining straps I should be able to lift the whole contraption up about 4 inches. That will be just enough space to slide the bricks underneath and also the wood on top of the bricks and the new pan on that. Doing this will raise the pan so that it is slightly higher than the hole in the wall where I plan to add a pipe connected to the pan for drainage. Speaking of the hole in the wall... You see how there is currently a pipe in that hole? Someone went through the trouble of connecting all of that pipe to the pressure release valve. As far as I can tell those pipes are welded on so that's going to be a problem. My thought's there are that I will take a hacksaw and simply cut the pressure release valve pipe at the bottom right before it would have gone through the wall. Is this a reasonable approach? <Q> If it is coming from the tank then it probably needs replaced. <S> You can raise the tank as high as you want but if you do I would also replace the copper flex water lines and the flexible gas line. <S> Once those lines get older, the flex gets hard and rigid and may break when you re-bend them to the new height. <S> A broken water line or gas leak could be a disaster. <S> And, by the way, the piping off that T&P relief valve is soldered and is not welded indicating to me that you should seek help from someone more knowledgeable than yourself in what you want to accomplish. <A> No gas shut off for either line, flex is not suitable for a stationary appliance unless it's approved CSST, duct tape on the flue, draft hood is crooked, pressure relief should terminate in a conspicuous location, those flex lines, globe valve, saddle valve, crooked seismic strap, it's old, it's leaking, plus all the problems not visible from the picture. <S> It's time for a change. <A> There is a reason most countries regulate gas-related equipment strictly, because they don't want buildings to explode. <S> If there is no electricity or gas involved, fix it! <S> If it's under - let's say - 50 Volts, go on! <S> If it's 110-230 V, watch out, but you'll be probably okay. <S> If it can leak gas, and fill up the inside of a building, or kill everyone through CO poisoning, call someone who knows what to do! <S> (and probably certified by either a gas company, a heater manufacturer, or by the government). <A> Being in the plumbing industry most of my adult life, if you are going to go to the trouble of raising the heater just a fewinches, you might want to look at relocating the heater entirely. <S> I have never seen a "smitty pan" save a home froma major water leak.
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If the water on the floor is from the water heater I would fix that problem before I do anything else.
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Do my washing machine and dryer need to be close to the water heater? I just purchased a house and near the kitchen it has a location for the washing machine and dryer. The water heater is near by in a separate cabinet. I would like to move the washer and dryer into the garage to have more room in the house. As I was shopping for a house I noticed that many washers and dryers were near the water heater. Is their a problem with moving the washer and dryer away from the water heater? <Q> There's no problem moving the washer and dryer in respect to your question. <S> The column of cold in the line would be well cleared for just about any reasonable distance by the time the load is ready to wash. <S> But it is a concern if the run is very long. <S> For the most part you don't need hot water anyway, unless you wear a lot of whites or work as a mechanic or get greasy clothes some other way. <S> The bigger issue is the plumbing drains. <S> Supplying hot and cold is probably easyish. <S> If a suitable drain and vent are not available then you have a problem. <A> Well, you know the problem that hot water pipes are not magic, and after a few minutes, the water in the hot water pipe will cool to room temperature. <S> Then, when you turn on the hot, you have to wait, wait, wait <S> while all the cool water in the pipe is pushed out by new hot water. <S> The longer the pipe, the longer the wait. <S> The fatter the pipe, the longer the wait squared , because of the area rule. <S> So. <S> The washing machine does not know how to "run the faucet until it warms up". <S> If you are too far from the water heater, all you'll get is that slug of tepid water that was in the long fat pipe, and warm will be tepid and hot will be warm. <S> The fix is to have a slop sink right next to the washer, and open up the hot on the slop-sink til <S> it purges the pipe, then start the washer. <S> This is the biggest problem I can think of. <S> Obviously, it's not a particularly big problem. <A> Get a heat-pump electric dryer so you don't need the exhaust needed for a gas dryer, also you'll have to pull a drain line. <S> EDIT:Some modern US-Style hot/cold washing machine can accept cold water from both inlets, so just connect them both to the cold tap by a 'Y' and your washer should be fine (heating water internally). <S> Just check on the instructions if this setup is allowed with your specific machine. <A> You put where you want it. <S> The pipe holds what? <S> Half a gallon? <S> The washer uses 5 gallons for a small load. <S> Set to hot <S> and you get 30 seconds cold and 4 and a half minutes hot <S> the temperature is a little cooler. <S> No big deal. <S> The drain is the hard pat.
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Get a washer capable of heating water internally (a regular washing machine will be ok if you're elsewhere) and hook up only cold water.
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How to lift/raise/repair a segment of concrete slab? I have an 8-year old concrete slab around my pool. One slab has sunk by about 2 inches on the short side. The slab measures about 6 feet by 3 feet by 4 inches. It rests against the pool structure on the long side. The opposite long side is grass. The two short sides are separated by a 1 inch wood separator from other slabs. There is a thin "cool deck" covering of on the slab. My question: what is the best choice of action for me to repair this? Can I raise it to fill underneath it with sand? How? How do I prevent the slab from cracking? Should I pour concrete on it? It will be tapering from 2 inches to 0 and probably won't stick. Also the cool deck cover gets covered by concrete. <Q> Unless the concrete was weak initially or in otherwise poor condition it won't break. <S> From the lawn side, trench along the slab about 6" wide and to the bottom of the concrete. <S> Save the sod by wrapping it in a tarp. <S> Using heavy steel or wood bars and some fulcrum blocks, begin lifting the concrete. <S> Work in stages and block it up as you go. <S> Once you're high enough, move the blocks rearward, underneath the slab. <S> Continue maneuvering it until the entire slab is floating above the level of the surrounding slabs. <S> Lever the raised slab sideways as needed to gain access to the soil below. <S> It's not necessary to move it completely out of the hole area. <S> Repair <S> your soil base using non-organic sand or gravel. <S> Tamp it well and leave it 1/2" higher than necessary. <S> Move your slab back into position and remove the blocks. <S> Be careful not to drop it to prevent damage to it and the surrounding slabs. <S> Allow the slab to settle for a few weeks, ideally through a rain event. <S> If it doesn't rain, flood the area well to allow the soil to compact and settle. <S> If you find that you've left it too high, a hose worked under the slab from the lawn side will allow you to wash out some fill soil. <S> Work slowly so as to not go too far. <A> You might want to look around your local area for contractors that offer 'mudjacking' . <S> Essentially they pump a grout-like mixture using a powerful hydraulic pump under the slab and bring it level. <S> I think it generally requires cutting a hole in the slab. <A> One method to correct this is to jack up the sunken edge to its original height and fill the space between the slab and the ground underneath with polyurethane expanding foam. <S> The details of the process are way beyond an answer here, but in a nutshell: You dig a trench along the sunken edge so you can get jacks under the slab then slowly, carefully jack it into position. <S> Once it's in position, you drill holes through the slab and squirt the expanding foam into the void below. <S> Once the foam sets you can remove the jacks, backfill the trench you dug, and you're set. <S> Note - per comments - the spray foam <S> that's readily available for filling gaps and cracks <S> is probably not what you want, they make specialty foam for this purpose. <S> Note that this doesn't necessarily fix whatever made the slab sink. <S> If it was just settling of the soil under the slab it might not happen again and you're done. <S> If there is water runoff eroding the soil under the slab, it's likely the soil under the slab and foam will erode again. <S> Whatever method you use to fix this - even if you remove and replace the slab - you'll want to remedy any drainage problems first so that your fix holds. <A> In the first two minutes of this video <S> you can see a possible way of lifting a slab in place from one side. <S> But it uses a huge C-clamp which I am not sure where you get it from. <S> The largest I have seen locally is an 8-inch type. <S> The large-size variety might be available for rental. <S> The cost depends on the weight you want to lift (a cubic foot of concrete weighs about 150 pounds). <S> Due to heavy weights involved you want to be careful that all components are well-supported, otherwise serious injury can happen. <S> Here is an alternative approach . <S> If you have access to both sides this video shows how to do it. <S> Notice they fill underneath with high density foam!
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This slab is small enough that you should be able to easily lift it out and repair the base soil.
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Heating basement floor with water heater Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile? <Q> Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. <S> This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to you www.floorheatsystems.com <S> The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. <S> It's only being used for floor heating. <S> Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires <S> bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit. <S> The Solution Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet. <S> Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com <S> It's also much thinner then pex. <A> A loop unto itself cannot flow. <S> Seriously. <S> Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. <S> Not much floor will get heated from that. <S> You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. <S> Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments. <A> I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. <S> What a waste of my time and money. <S> With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. <S> If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature.
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If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive. This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install.
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How to fasten one end of a rope to multiple points so as to distribute load equally? I'd like to hang a cocoon-type hammock device from a few railings overhead. It hooks onto a single point and hangs vertically, as opposed to a traditional hammock that you'd see hung horizontally between two trees. It has to support one person's weight, but none of the potential fixing points are strong enough individually. I'm looking for a way to distribute the load (as equally as possible) between multiple fixing points. I'm going down this road, because this is a rented space and I can't drill for more traditional high-load fixing points. Off-hand diagram: <Q> You can use a concept from rock climbing here. <S> There are methods of attaching to multiple anchors that are meant to distribute the load to three anchors, such as a cordalette: You can search and find instructions for how to tie a cordalette, which might be all you need. <S> There are other methods that are meant to have some slip so that the load is evenly distributed between the multiple anchor points. <S> Here is an example: You'll find lots of examples for this if you search for "climbing equalizing anchors" or something like that. <A> The first thing that comes to mind is getting a welded steel ring to act as the "junction" point for your rope: Random welded ring on Amazon <S> These are normally available at hardware stores in the rope and chain section. <S> The upper ropes that are fastening to the anchor points could be looped through the ring so you don't have to try and cut and tie the right length rope to even out the load. <S> I think this method will work because the rope will have a load rating much higher than you need - you seem to only be limited by the strength of the anchor points. <S> Also keep in mind that when using multiple anchor points like this, the anchors will have a sideways force pulling on them as well as a downward force. <S> Choose your anchors carefully. <S> The higher the angle of the rope is, the more sideways force you have. <A> Honestly I think you are over thinking this. <S> As long as your anchor point spread out too far you shouldn't have a problem you don't really need to worry too much about transferring load because there is only one load on it. <S> If you plan on swinging in your hammock that's a different story. <S> On the other hand you don't have to worry about plummeting to your death either. <S> You could try something like this Using six of the anchor points that you have outlined <S> you can easily make adjustments to the load-bearing points by adjusting three lengths. <S> Test <S> your anchor points <S> Start with your best anchor points. <S> Fix a rope in place at a comfortable height for you to hold on to and do a pull-up and then bounce a little. <S> Use your judgment to figure out the quality of the anchoring. <S> I often mount things over people's heads and the best of field test I've come up with is to hang off an individual anchor effectively quadrupling the load it would possibly see. <S> perhaps this is a more accurate representation of what you need <S> Once you have one or two decent anchor points the rest are just insurance. <S> With this setup always make sure the two best anchor points are together.
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Other options would be a chain "quick link" or a load-rated carabiner (not the keychain type).
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Range hood - not powerful enough to clear smoke? Whenever I sear steak (or cook anything on high heat), despite having our range hood on the highest setting, the smoke alarms always go off and the entire house smells pretty bad for several hours. Aside from changing my cooking habits, I was wondering if there's anything else I can do to improve this situation. I am totally willing to replace our hood if need be, but I don't want to make an investment only to find out it doesn't actually change anything.Our hood is currently a 36" under-cabinet rated at 400 CFM. We have a standard gas stove with 4 burners. Our kitchen is an "open space" concept though meaning it's kinda merged with the living room in the same space.The exhaust is supposed to go outside. Would a higher CFM hood "fix" the issue? Any other recommendations to what I could check? <Q> As many have mentioned the exhaust duct needs to be sized properly, I have seen folks spend a lot on higher cfm fans that did no better because the root problem was the home was sealed <S> so no air could get in to efficiently allow the hood to do its job. <S> Try opening a window and see if the hood works better. <S> If no change the duct may be two small, if the hood works with the window open you have a cheap fix. <S> More expensive methods involve pressure switches and make up air from outside. <A> From the comments: I haven't replaced the charcoal filters in several years <S> That is very possibly the key right there. <S> Just like a clothes dryer won't work properly if the lint trap is clogged, and just like a HVAC system won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, and just like your car engine won't work properly if the air filter is clogged, your exhaust fan will not work properly if the filter is clogged . <S> An exhaust fan can have two types of filters: <S> Grease filter - <S> This is designed to catch grease and particulates to prevent them from going into the effectively uncleanable (and therefore dangerous with grease accumulation) ductwork. <S> They should be cleaned or replaced periodically. <S> Charcoal filter - This is designed to filter odors from the air. <S> While it is not designed as a grease/particulate filter, if the grease and particulates are not filtered out elsewhere <S> then they can clog up the charcoal filter. <S> So clean or replace any/all filters you can find! <S> Then see if things are improved. <S> Also as noted in the comments: Charcoal filters are only used when venting to outside is not possible. <S> I don’t think your unit is attached to an exterior duct. <S> I agree that generally charcoal filters are for venting inside - <S> the concept is that there is no point in spending money to filter out odors if you are exhausting the air containing the odors to the outside. <S> But I have seen charcoal filters in other configurations too, so that is not an absolute guarantee that you are not exhausting to the outside. <A> You need to investigate further. <S> The size of the pipe going outside is a big determining factor. <S> If it's even connected. <S> Occasionally the exhaust outlet is connected to the back of the exhaust hood. <S> Most cases there should be a pipe running up through the cupboard above the hood. <S> It may be exposed or it may be boxed in. <S> If your stove backs on to an interior wall then the pipe must conduct the exhaust a longer way. <S> The longer the run the larger the pipe need to be. <S> If it is a 4"pipe with a short run out, as in up a foot or two and then outside you should be okay. <S> Then maybe a new one (not a cheap one) will help but only up to about 300-400 cfm. <S> Cheap hoods leak through the housing like crazy. <S> Good ones are sealed better and use better fan designs to move the air into the pipe rather than back into your house. <S> The larger the pipe <S> the quieter it will run while moving more air.
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If your stove is on an exterior wall then you can upgrade to a much larger unit and also upgrade the size of the pipe to accommodate it.
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Coat hook rack above a wall with fuse boxes The plan I'm planning to build and put up a coat hook rack in my flat. My plan is to simply screw 5 hooks into a solid piece of wood and then mount it on the wall. It should look something like this: only a bit simpler. However, the wall on which I would like to mount the rack looks like this: As you can see there are some fuse boxes. The box on the bottom is for the underfloor heating. The boxes above are for fuses. The rack should be mounted above the boxes. Now to my problem Due to the fact that I want to mount the rack on a wall with fuse boxes (where there are probably many cables behind the wall), I don't know how (and even if) I can mount a rack onto the wall. I think the use of dowels isn't a good idea because of the cables, correct? I was thinking about mounting it from the ceiling (perhaps using 2 ropes, I know this won't hold just to give you an illustration) but this didn't seem like a good idea to me. My Question Do you have any ideas on how to mount the rack onto the wall and do you even think that this would be possible? Thank you in advance! <Q> In the US code prohibits the panel from being in the vicinity of easily ignitible material with clothes closets specifically listed NEC 240.24.D. <S> So based on that I would say it's not a good idea. <A> I agree with both isherwood and Ed Beal. <S> You probably shouldn't mount combustibles in front of your electrical panel. <S> That being said if you insist you should be able to comfortably go into the studs an inch without hitting any wires. <S> Alternative solution <S> This doesn't always satisfy people's style and this particular image is a pot rack not a wardrobe but you should be able to find some ideas online if you're willing to mount to the ceiling. <S> This concept may not suit your needs but maybe expand your horizons as to where you have options to put a wardrobe. <S> If you are concerned about weight I have done pull ups on that pot rack and I weigh 200 pounds. <A> "Give me my working space back, dangit!" <S> In the USA, this would be a quite clear-cut violation of NEC 110.26(B): <S> (B) <S> Clear Spaces. <S> Working space required by this section shall not be used for storage. <S> When normally enclosed live parts are exposed for inspection or servicing, the working space, if in a passageway or general open space, shall be suitably guarded. <S> in addition to potentially violating the 110.26(E)(1)(a) requirements for space dedicated to the electrical system and the 110.26(A)(3) requirements for the height of the clear working space around the electrical equipment, depending on how high on the wall the coatrack was placed. <S> This is all atop the issue of having overcurrent devices placed near easily ignitable materials, such as clothing, as is prohibited by NEC 240.24(D): <S> (D) Not in Vicinity of Easily Ignitible Material. <S> Overcurrent devices shall not be located in the vicinity of easily ignitible material, such as in clothes closets. <A> I put up hooks in my cupboard, which is the equivalent to yours. <S> I didn't use screws or nails at all, but instead I used a "no nails" adhesive, which is more than strong enough for hanging coats off. <S> Sometimes the simple solutions are the best. <A> You're wise to be concerned, but you have some things working in your favor. <S> First, the wiring should be either protected in conduit, or arranged so that it's out of harm's way. <S> If I was to guess I'd say that there are probably studs on either side of both box locations. <S> You should be able to run screws up to 1" into them without fear of encountering wiring. <S> If wiring is closer to the surface it should be protected with steel plates. <S> You can try using a non-contact voltage sensor, but my guess is that results will be nebulous with so much electrical whatnot happening right there. <S> Instead, locate the studs accurately and only drill there. <S> Go slowly and observe the debris. <S> If it isn't wood that you find immediately behind the drywall, do not proceed. <A> Ignoring the comments by other users regarding safety concerns (as I'm not knowledgable with such things or aware of where you are in the world), if you still wanted to mount your coat hook rack without drilling any screws etc, you could use adhesive strips. <S> There are certain brands that are good because they peel off walls easily, e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=command+strips&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 <S> You could use these to hang up a rack, or they often come in individual hooks you could hang up, either externally or on the inside of cupboard doors as others have suggested. <S> Best of luck! <A> If you are in the UK, I can find no regulations which prohibit the installation of a consumer unit in the vicinity of clothes or other inflammable material. <S> See this page from the IET (formerly the IEEE). <S> There is also no regulation requiring working space around the consumer unit to be kept free at all times. <S> Consumer units in houses are usually installed in the cupboard under the stairs, and these are usually filled with coats. <S> If an electrician needs to work on the consumer unit, the coats have to be moved. <S> In my view, the fire risk from a recent electrical installation is very low, and there is no particular need to be concerned about it. <S> You can safely screw into the wooden studs around the consumer units.
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While your coatrack-over-fusebox proposal may sound like a good idea to an interior designer who doesn't know squat about electrical codes, it's not.
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Can I solder 12/2 Romex to extend wire 5 ft? I'm sure this is going to be lambasted by the code gods, but is it SAFE to solder the wires in a Romex cable to extend it? Obviously I would ground the circuit as normal, just trying to avoid another junction box. Would I heat shrink each individual wire and then the outer sheathing as well? Thanks for any advice <Q> They do make Romex Splice Kits <S> that claim to be legal for rework inside of a finished wall without junction boxes. <S> Soldering is absolutely the wrong way, and regular wire nuts are not going to cut it. <S> You need a mechanical fastener rated and tested for the job. <A> That said, soldering has very specific requirements for splicing it "dry" in advance before solder is even applied (this is a much bigger PitA than you think, because it makes tinning hard!) <S> This is called out in NEC 110.14b. <S> Then you have to wrap and layer insulation in a particular way. <S> I could see where shrink tube could be an option, but any sharp points on the resulting splice will tend to pierce the shrink tube, so I would do 2-3 layers of it over friction tape honestly. <S> Friction tape does something electrical tape does not, and that's protect the insulation from physical damage from corners in the splice. <S> It is an artisanal craft, exactly the kind of reason why electricians are apprenticeships . <S> Last time I did one, it took a half hour (per wire) and I'm still not confident it's right. <S> This is not kid stuff. <S> Aside from the fact that you're supposed to pull permits and have inspections... fires get investigated. <S> If it's found to be your negligence, fire insurance won't pay. <S> Then the mortgage lender will call the note. <S> Every bit of Code I've ever seen, I have ultimately found had very good reasons for being that way. <S> Code is written in blood and ash, it is the collective knowledge of how not to have problems unnecessarily . <S> With rare exception I have never seen a code violation that also managed to be safe. <S> Those exceptions can be negotiated with your AHJ. <A> Take a step back and consider. <S> The right way to do it would have three distinct components: (a) wirenuts, (b) <S> a box, and (c) accessibility behind a removable faceplate. <S> The last of these is presumably what's causing trouble in this case. <S> Why change the other two components too? <S> Once you've decided you'll compromise code compliance, why not make the minimum possible deviation? <S> If I were reno'ing a house and found a box buried behind drywall, but it was a code-legal covered box and the connections were properly wire nutted <S> , I'd say, Someone was lazy, and I would not have done it, but I understand , and I really could not say that a functional risk was created. <S> If I found heatshrink-wrapped solder joints, I'd say someone went out of their way to show contempt for code, all current practices, and safety. <S> And it's not just that the code writers didn't know about solder. <S> Both very bad.
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Well, they actually make an approved device to splice Romex outside a junction box. It turns out that in short-circuit high-current conditions, solder can melt or even evaporate very quickly, leaving you with no path to ground, or a high-resistance connection. The splice connection must be both mechanically and electrically complete before you even start soldering.
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Caulking a corner instead of taping with joint compound? Is it considered acceptable in drywall / sheetrock work to use caulk to finish an interior corner instead of using tape with joint compound? This is not my own DIY idea – this was suggested to me by a drywall contractor. In this specific instance it was a wall-to-ceiling corner which is about 26' long. My sense of things is that this would be a shortcut, and if caulking was a high quality substitute for taping then no one would ever use tape. I'm pretty sure caulk would be more prone to cracking over time, especially since caulk shrinks and the joint would have no reinforcement. But there could certainly be methods and/or products I'm not familiar with! <Q> First I would not even have a conversation with that contractor. <S> Gone instantly. <S> If he is cutting corners here, what else would he do without you knowing? <S> Bye. <S> Caulk in corners <S> - I have had to do this as a temporary fix but here are your issues: <S> your corner isn't really a corner. <S> Corners look good because of the sharp angle. <S> You can for sure see if a corner has been caulked and it looks off to the eye. <S> If you don't care about aesthetics then no big deal. <S> paint does not adhere to caulk like it does drywall/mud. <S> Paint will chip, paint will be more easily discolored, and touching up painted caulk will look lumpy. <S> caulk will not last unless the home environment is both well conditioned and very stable. <S> So you might get away with caulking an inside wall on the first story of a two story house with a basement that is always set to 68F. <S> Might last you 7-10 years if you don't touch it. <S> Doing a wall on a ranch in a temperate climate, the drywall will shrink and expand, make the best caulk pull or get brittle within a year or two <S> and you will have to constantly have to recaulk. <S> Simply not a long-term solution. <S> But the fact that this topic was breached with a home owner is a huge red flag. <A> No. <S> Eventually it'll crack loose. <S> You need tape in most cases to create a solid bond (tape-on-paper, essentially), and to add structure and continuity to the joint. <S> That said, I have used caulk to repair poorly-taped corners, just as an aesthetic tool. <A> Apparently there are some caulks which are actually made for this specific purpose. <S> I doubt any standard "painter's caulk" would work well, but this is worth bearing in mind if you are in a market where this is available. <S> The specific example I just saw was from Germany - the product " KNAUF Power Elast " which I spotted in a video . <S> Presumably there are alternative similar products. <S> I don't read German but from a translation it seems like this material is meant to be particularly elastic which makes sense to avoid cracks. <S> I can see where, if this worked well, it could be a lot easier than taping a corner (especially for a non-pro). <S> It is also paintable. <S> There are some other interesting differences between the German practices for installing gypsum board and what I'm familiar with in the US. <S> (No joint tape anywhere, for one thing, just mud). <S> When installing the caulk, these were my observations: Used only for inside corners <S> Some type of watery joint prep (primer?) was painted on <S> prior to caulking Caulk was applied with a normal caulk gun & then finger tooled smooth <S> Anyway, no doubt the specific instance posed by the question was not good practice, but its good to be aware their might be valid alternatives in some places. <A> I’ve used a high quality no shrink paintable caulk when I’ve made a very clean cut drywall edge both on an inside wall to wall and a wall to stipled textured ceiling. <S> I finger tooled and it not only looks great, it saved a ton of time and finesse and continues to look great. <S> I fully understand the drywall purists position but take a good look at all the new products that have entered the market in the past few years <S> you may be surprised <A> In a tiled shower yes, the corners are usually caulked rather than grouted like the joints; but drywall? <S> Frank <A> My parents house the inside corners were caulked instead of being taped by the drywall contractor and the corners are still perfect now 20 years later! <S> So no it is a great idea I love it.
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No matter if you use the most paintable caulk in the world, the caulked part will look off. So much easier to do. no, it is a bad idea. No normal contractor that does drywall would even have this thought in their head. Caulk might look great for a short time (if it doesn't shrink to oblivion right away), but it doesn't bond to the cut end of the gypsum panel at all. And I have personally done it in my house 5 years ago on some remodeling and it still is perfect as well.
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Can I add another outlet to an existing load outlet? I have an existing outlet with four wires plus the ground. I want to add an outlet directly outside the house using the existing outlet as the feed. Can this be done? <Q> Back and side outlets have a clamp that will hold 2 wires under each screw or 4 blacks on the hot side <S> then 4 whites on the neutral side. <S> Your limitation may be the size of the box and the wire size these would be needed to calculate the "box fill". <S> Don't forget the outside receptacle will need to be a GFCI or the circuit protected by a GFCI Circuit breaker. <A> This can be done, with a few considerations. <S> The first is that the current box will most likely need to be replaced with a larger one. <S> There are "box fill calculations" that determine the size of the box to be used based on the number and size of wires in the box. <S> The most common boxes are fine for 4 wires, but once you jump up to 6, you typically need a bigger box. <S> The good news is that it's normally easier to do a job like this by removing the existing box inside <S> so you have more room to work. <S> Connecting all 6 wires in the box can be cumbersome even in the largest single-gang boxes, so I would recommend using what is called a "backwire" or "sidewire" outlet. <S> These allow attaching up to 4 wires per side because the wire goes straight under a clamp rather than needing to be looped around a screw. <S> The cost a few dollars more, but make this job very easy. <S> Finally the outside outlet will need to be GFCI protected. <S> Some people frown on the idea of placing an actual GFCI outlet outside because of their failure rate when exposed to the elements. <S> Using a weather proof box cover can help with this, but it could just be a matter of time until it succumbs to the elements. <S> The other choice is to protect the entire circuit with a GFCI breaker. <S> The breaker route will cost more, but it will protect all existing outlets on the circuit and won't be exposed to the elements. <S> Make sure a GFCI breaker is available for your panel and it will fit before getting married to that idea. <S> Also, you could be tempted to put the GFCI breaker inside and connect the exterior outlet to the LOAD terminals, but putting a large GFCI outlet in a box with 6 wires isn't going to work. <S> You could perhaps put the GFCI outlet in place of the previous outlet in the "chain", but that's probably more confusing than just using a breaker or putting it outside. <A> There are certain locations (bathrooms & kitchens, but possibly others) where under some circumstances circuits are supposed to be limited to those locations. <S> But as a general rule, you can remove one of the pairs of wires (black & white), add pigtails (short pieces, same colors) to where the original wires were connected, and use wire nuts to connect the old wires, the pigtails to the existing receptacle, and wires to the new receptacle together to power a new receptacle elsewhere. <S> Keep in mind that new outdoor receptacles are required to have GFCI protection. <S> If not, the new receptacle will need to include GFCI protection. <S> But that can cause additional problems because outside GFCI receptacles are prone to damage over time. <S> Better is to either replace the original circuit breaker with a GFCI breaker (usually easy, unless the original circuit breaker is actually an old fuse, or if the original circuit breaker is a 1/2 size (aka double stuff) breaker) or replace an existing receptacle in the circuit with a GFCI receptacle and wiring the load connections to the new receptacle correctly . <S> Outdoor receptacles also need to be weather resistant. " <S> Weather resistant" is no guarantee of prevention of rain & other weather causing problems, but improves the odds.
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If the existing circuit is already protected (GFCI circuit breaker, or GFCI receptacle wired correctly ) then you will be fine. You may need a different outlet but yes it can be done.
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Can you run a ground wire from stove directly to ground pole in the ground Directly to ground pole outside drove into ground <Q> It won't do a thing for human safety, though. <S> To protect humans from electric shocks, you can go one of two ways. <S> GFCI protection <S> You replace the oven's breaker with a 2-pole GFCI breaker. <S> If there's any place to mark this, you mark the oven's outlet with the words <S> GFCI Protected No Equipment Ground <S> And then you wire the oven correctly for a 4-wire connection <S> (i.e. remove the neutral-ground strap on the oven) and don't connect ground. <S> If it's a receptacle you fit a 4-prong <S> (NEMA 14) receptacle and do not connect ground and apply the above sticker. <S> Retrofit a ground <S> You need a #10 ground wire going back to any of these points: <S> The ground bar of the service panel this oven is powered out of A junction box of any other circuit with a #10 or larger ground path going back to the panel non-flexible metal conduit which is continuous all the way back to the panel the Grounding Electrode System, i.e. the bare ground straps between the service panel and the house's grounding electrode(s) - ground rods, metal water main, or Ufer ground. <S> This wire can be retrofitted as a solitary wire . <S> This wire does not need to follow the same route as the other wires. <S> If you really, really want to, you can replace the whole 3-wire cable with a 4-wire cable, but that is just a harder way to do the above. <A> The ground system serves two purposes. <S> Static Electricity, Lightning and other "Natural" Causes <S> These types of electricity need to get back to the "source", which is the physical ground (the earth). <S> Return of current if there is a fault in wiring or equipment <S> This could include wire damage resulting in a hot wire touching the metal frame of an appliance and many other types of faults. <S> The grounding system provides a low resistance path to get back to the neutral at the main panel to complete the circuit. <S> This is much better than the current going through a person touching the appliance and completing the circuit through their body (NOT a good thing at all). <S> If the only path is the relatively high resistance "physical earth ground", the current may stay well above dangerous levels (it doesn't take much to kill) while staying well below "trip the breaker" levels. <S> FYI, GFCI comes along to provide additional protection in key areas, particularly wet areas like kitchens & bathrooms, because even the smallest ground fault can be dangerous when water is involved because wet skin conducts much better than dry skin. <S> You need to have both of these protections in place, and normally they are all handled through one set of wires that connects both to the ground (through ground rods or water pipes) and to the neutral at the main panel. <S> Two functions, one combined system, one wire to each appliance or receptacle. <S> However, I suspect the reason for the question is that you are trying to convert a stove from 3 wire to 4 wire and just don't have a ground wire available and running a new ground wire to the panel <S> is much more work than simply running a wire out to a pole stuck in the ground. <S> The good news is that you can retrofit grounds - i.e., piggyback on another electrical ground elsewhere in the kitchen. <S> There are some constraints regarding minimum wire size, though if you have metal conduit then you may be able to use that as your ground. <A> Yes under CEI regulation. <S> It's called TT earthing, but in this case you have to protect the stove with RCD (GFI in american words). <S> That <S> because 'local' ground loop may have resistence high enugh not to let trip an MCB in case of leakage, but high enough to make an imbalance to trip an RCD. <S> In any case you shouldn't have other masses next to the stove connected to 'another' ground 'on the reach of the user' because, in case of fault, there could be a voltage between the two grounds leaving a potential hazard. <A> I agree with isherwood, ground in a reference point <S> and it varies from point to point. <S> To be effective the ground in your house needs to be referenced at the same point. <S> There is electrical potential all around us at all times but a difference in voltage is what allows current to flow. <S> If you were to take two points in the earth and measure between them you would get a reading. <S> There are more reasons for proper grounding that are better explained by others as I'm licensed but not really an electrician.
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A ground rod or connecting to a metal pipe that extends into the ground accomplishes this. If your goal is to protect the oven from ESD (static electricity) damage or lightning-strike damage, or help it receive radio signals, then going out to a ground spike can help you with that. Assuming there is an actual short circuit , the ground path will conduct all the available current so that the circuit breaker will trip. Depends what you're trying to protect.
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A running toilet that stops itself I have a toilet that will start running as if the flapper is bad. (I’m confident it is not. I’ve replaced it twice.) It doesn’t drain much, just enough to trigger a fill every 20 - 30 minutes. The strange thing is the tank only drains slightly and then stops. If I turn the water off it will only drain approximately 1/4 to 3/8’s of an inch and then stop draining completely. I can leave the water turned off for two weeks and it will never go below that level. I’m thinking if it were a bad seal it would drain completely after that time. Is it a crack in the tank? I’ve just about had it and ready to replace the toilet. It’s approximately 20 years old. <Q> Maybe there is a small crack or leak near the top of the toilet tank overflow tube. <S> See diagram below at red arrow. <S> (Picture Source: https://titanzplumbing.com/does-your-toilet-randomly-start-running/ ) <A> Clearly the flapper - and just as importantly, the bottom of the tank where the flapper sits - is just fine. <S> Otherwise you would have the toilet eventually empty when the incoming water is turned off. <S> This (a) deliberately feeds some water normally into the toilet after the flapper has closed and (b) if the fill valve were to fail open (not a good thing as it would waste a lot of water very quickly), it would let the water drain down the sewer instead of overlowing the tank onto your bathroom floor. <S> A 20 year old toilet is old enough that the fill valve and other parts can start to fail. <S> But new enough that standard replacements should work just fine (as opposed to 40 year-old 3.5 gallon toilets). <S> There are plenty of choices (Fluidmaster, Danco, etc.) <S> and the whole kit runs typically $10 to $25 - a lot less than a new toilet. <S> I would avoid the old ball float styles - <S> even if your existing toilet uses one there is no reason to stick with that - the new types are, in my opinion, much better. <A> If the fill hose/tube (the hose/tube that runs from the fill valve to the overflow tube) is inserted into , rather than clipped above and aiming into, the overflow pipe, siphon action will lower the water level in the tank down to the distance the fill hose/tube is inserted. <S> Ensure the fill hose/tube is not inside of the overflow pipe below the normal water level. <A> You probably have a crack in the overflow, the little tube that terminates just above the water line. <S> You may have to deform it a little by squeezing it for it to become apparent. <A> It looks like Jimmy Fix <S> -It’s suggestion solved the problem. <S> Who ever installed the new float and filler years ago, did not trim the fill hose properly and it was creating a siphon effect. <S> Thank you Jimmy!
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You have some sort of problem with the fill valve and/or the overflow pipe .
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Furnace can’t keep up when set to ON but keeps up fine on AUTO. Is this normal? I’m in a pretty cold state. It’s been below zero F quite often this winter. My furnace has not been keeping up and my house has gotten pretty cold. I got some space heaters to supplement. Furnace is about eight years old. But I started to think that I’ve never had this problem in past winters. Maybe furnace needs a tune up? I always keep a clean filter and air volume from vents was fine. All gas jet thingies were fired up and looked fine. So I started thinking that this past summer I switched my system to always ON because I thought maybe constantly circulating the AC on the house would keep the temp low with less energy. Plus I didn’t like the system turning on and off when I was trying to fall asleep. This is a 100 year old house with no insulation. I retrofit the central AC and heat in 8 years ago. So I’m trying to figure out why the heat won’t keep up and I decide to switch the system to Auto. We had a really cold night and it kept up just fine. The house is hot now! Is this normal? If not is it indicative of a problem? <Q> Running the fan reduces stratification, meeting that it makes the temperatures in the house even. <S> The thermostat being centrally located in a house is often satisfied before the remainder of the house is able to warm up especially in an old house where the heating registers usually are centrally located what's return air located at outside walls. <S> Basically it's an indication that you have a poor duct system which is not uncommon in an old house. <S> If you let me know the state, square footage not including the basement if it's below ground, the furnace model number or the size in btu I can tell you a little more about your system. <S> Edit <S> Although the above statements are very accurate I did interpret your question in reverse. <S> I read it as, you were having a problem maintaining the temperature with the fan set to auto . <S> Having your issue with the fan set on would normally be a real head-scratcher. <S> But in this case I would say you need to have a look at your Ecobee. <S> It's a fantastic thermostat, I have one too and there are a lot of features available to tweak your system. <S> If you have multiple sensors and and they are satisfied before the main thermostat the system may shut off prematurely. <S> This is a screenshot of my ecobee <S> If the sensor upstairs reaches the temperature set point well ahead of the main thermostat I think ecobee uses some kind of average to determine when to shut it off. <S> To determine if this is the issue I would suggest turning off all the sensors except for the main thermostat run the fan set to on and see if anything changes. <A> It depends on the model of the furnace. <S> Some have multiple stages in a fixed "on" state the system may not be able to change to a higher stage. <S> If it is a single stage furnace then the duct work may not have sufficient insulation and constantly moving the air through the unheated poorly insulated spaces is cooling the air. <A> I have lived in 2 houses over the last 40+ years and in both houses the furnace fan ran 24/7 except on a few days in the spring and fall when my wife likes to open the windows and "air out" the house. <S> My thermostat, an older mercury type, has been set at 72 degrees F. in the winter and 75 degrees F in the summer. <S> The temperature settings are constant 24/7. <S> All the rooms in my ranch home are relatively the same temp with very little temp difference. <S> I have an electronic air cleaner + a pre-filter. <S> The furnace fan is a 3 speed which utilizes the lowest speed for continuous air circulation and the middle speed for heating and the high speed for A/C. <S> In your house, you said that if you set the thermostat to 62 degrees then how could the house temp go to 68 degrees unless the thermostat is defective? <S> Running the fan 24/7 should not reduce the heating in your house unless there is more to the story. <S> Where exactly are the supply registers located in each room and where are return grills in the rooms and at what elevation. <S> If you are thinking about energy conservation the best money spent is on insulation first and a window up grade next.
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In a house with no insulation the exterior walls lose heat much faster than the heat can be replaced from the ambient air within the house.
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Are an outlet and a light bulb at the main electrical panel required? I've heard that the main electrical panel needs a GFCI outlet right next to it, and it also needs a switch to an overhead light. But I can't find anything on the net to confirm. <Q> Indeed, some outdoor installations would make that impractical. <S> The caveat here is that a panel might be located somewhere that needs a GFCI outlet because of the location, not the presence of the panel. <S> For instance, if your panel is in your basement (sometimes considered a wet zone), and you need an outlet in that room, it might be most economical to put an outlet like that next to the panel. <S> Local codes might demand a light for the room as well. <A> Not necessarily What you heard is an overextended composite of multiple <S> , overlapping NEC requirements, so let's break them down in turn, starting with the receptacle. <S> Its presence is covered by NEC 210.64 and Exception 1 thereto: 210.64 Electrical Service Areas. <S> At least one 125-volt, single-phase, 15- or 20-ampere-rated receptacle outlet shall be installed in an accessible location within 7.5 m (25 ft) of the indoor electrical service equipment. <S> The required receptacle outlet shall be located within the same room or area as the service equipment. <S> Exception <S> No. 1: The receptacle outlet shall not be required to be installed in one- and two-family dwellings. <S> As a result of this exception, this is not something us DIYers necessarily have to worry about; however, it's a good idea to provision one anyway. <S> If you are providing one, either by Code (in commercial/multifamily) or by choice (in single-family residential), the fact it is the panel service receptacle does not require it to be a GFCI. <S> However, many panels are mounted in spaces (on the outside of buildings, in unfinished basements, in garages) where this receptacle would be required to be a GFCI by one of the 210.8 GFCI requirements, just like any other receptacle located in that space. <S> Finally, we get to the lighting outlet, which is a similar story to the GFCI. <S> Panels located in well-lit spaces or outside do not need a light beside them, as ambient or room lighting is assumed to be sufficient by Code for service work, and temporary worklights, flashlights, or headlamps can be used if the space is de-energized. <S> However, panels in unfinished spaces such as utility rooms and basements count as "equipment requiring servicing" for 210.70(C), triggering the lighting outlet requirement located there : (C) All Occupancies. <S> At least one point of control shall be at the usual point of entry to these spaces. <S> The lighting outlet shall be provided at or near the equipment requiring servicing. <S> As a result, this may force the installation of a lighting outlet near the panel if none was provisioned otherwise; this is often a problem in homes that "scatter" utility equipment across unfinished spaces. <A> It's not required but it's a best practice. <S> I see a fair number of panels in commercial locations and even unimproved areas of homes that have a receptacle just inches away from the panel, a simple handy-box connected by a few inches of conduit. <S> I assume this is an "electrician's receptacle" to allow him to plug in extension cords and lights so he can work on the rest of the facility. <S> It typically goes to a dedicated breaker on the bottom right. <S> The wires are long enough he could attach it to any breaker or even the hot side of the main breaker, naughty naughty! <S> I thought this might be a shibboleth of the electricians who work in this area, but I've also seen it in photos on the Web. <S> I haven't seen any that were GFCI, but I have made one GFCI because I needed to upgrade another circuit to GFCI. <S> So I simply landed the other circuit on its 'load' terminals. <S> Effectively you get a GFCI breaker for $16 instead of $45.
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For attics and underfloor spaces, utility rooms, and basements, at least one lighting outlet containing a switch or controlled by a wall switch shall be installed where these spaces are used for storage or contain equipment requiring servicing. No There's nothing in the NEC that demands a power outlet or switched light be installed by the panel.
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How can I dehumidify the bathroom while I shower, without using the ceiling fan? My grandparents live in a condo in Toronto. Whenever they shower, they open the bathroom door fully, but this still fails to remove most of the steam. They must turn on their ceiling vent fan. If the weather is cold, does turning on the ceiling fan convey cold air to the bathroom? They always feel cold incoming air while showering in the winter, whenever they turn it on. But they've never felt it whenever the fan's off. Please see this question's title overhead. They'd loathe to buy a dehumidifier just for this goal. Besides, I don't think a dehumidifier can safely be placed inside a bathroom? <Q> They are feeling cold because the elderly feel drafts like crazy. <S> Turning on the fan conveys hot humid air outside and that air gets replaced with air from the house which feels cool compared to the hot humid bathroom air. <S> One option is to install a heating lamp or a new school equivalent. <S> Btw I'm from Toronto ; <S> -p <S> Here's a heat lamp exhaust fan <S> www.amazon.ca <A> I think Joe is on the right track. <S> In order to reduce the humidity in the space you are just going to have to exhaust some of that moist air. <S> You can put a fan speed control in place of the control switch. <S> With this you can adjust the amount of air you remove from the room. <S> Secondly you can add supplemental heat to the space to reduce the drafty feel caused by the fan. <A> There are fans that get rid of the moisture but keep the heat which may be a better option compared to adding a heater... <S> See this as an example: bathroom vent fan with heat recovery
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It also feels cold when water evaporates off your body and if you are removing the humidity from the bathroom moisture evaporation on your body increases thus making you loose heat. With this type of unit additional wiring may need to be added.
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Nest thermostat E74 error - no power to Rh Wire It was working with no issues for last 3 years. Today it suddenly showing this error. Any help appreciated. <Q> Bit of Nest history Nest often has a sub base issue. <S> Usually the issue is contained to the cooling side. <S> Rh is power input for the heating side. <S> So that wouldn't be my first guess. <S> Test Remove Rh and G and connect them together with a wire nut or simply twisting together. <S> It doesn't have to be a very good connection, it just has to be a connection. <S> This will bring your fan on. <S> Now what you will want to do is, move to a location where you can hear the fan running. <S> If it is running that confirms power. <S> If it's running If the fan is running you can remove the RH wire from the G terminal and connected to the W wire. <S> Now after a few minutes you should have heat blowing through your vents. <S> If you do have heat blowing through your vents then I would suggest calling nest and getting them to replace your sub base they usually do it for free. <S> Conclusion <S> If you're unable to resolve the problem due to it being a power issue then that is another question which I am happy to help with but for now try the method outlined above and let us know how it worked. <A> I called a technician and he found out the cause is faulty Nest thermostat. <S> I was using Nest 3rd gen thermostat. <S> He removed the Nest and installed my old Honeywell non-wifi thermostat and my air conditioning started working again. <S> It's sad that $250 Nest stopped working in 3 years. <S> Mostly I won't go back to Nest again, I'll use Honeywell. <A> If gen 3. <S> Disconnect your common wire and do not use. <S> Thermostat should reset to 4 wire system and work <A> You could also have a safety switch that is connected to the condensation line. <S> This sensor detects water that has backed up in the line and causes the power to shut off to prevent water damage and over flow. <S> Just pull the safety switch cap off to see if there is water present. <S> Depend on how blocked it is and the time from when the unit shuts off and when you check the line, the water might have drained down a bit to allow the unit to run again for a few minutes . <S> You'll need to blow out the debris in the line.
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If it's not running you will need to identify the issue it may be a breaker, the furnace switch is off, the fuse in the furnace is blown, or one of many other power related issues.
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Correct circuit breakers for 4-wire connected Maytag dryer? The panel in the house we just bought has the 30-amp dryer is connected by 4 wires (#10) to the panel where the black wire is on a 30-amp circuit breaker and the red wire is on another 30-amp circuit breaker. Is that correct? To me that totals 60 amps of current acceptable over the wire. Thank you. <Q> Service panels have two poles of 120V each. <S> Most loads <S> you are familiar with, draw from one pole and return the same current to neutral, which is "in the middle". <S> 240V loads draw 30A from one pole, and return 30A to the other pole. <S> Generally there are 3 possibilities here. <S> A 2-pole breaker, which is a double-wide breaker with a factory handle tie. <S> Both are mandatory for a single 120/240V appliance wired with a neutral, such as a dryer or range. <S> One thing about 2-pole breakers is that the "common trip" is actually an internal mechanism inside the breaker, it isn't the handle tie. <S> Two 1-pole breakers with a handle-tie , which is a UL-listed device that is field-installed. <S> This has common maintenance shutoff only. <S> This is acceptable for 240V-only (no neutral) appliances like water heaters and air conditioning units. <S> It is also required for multi-wire branch circuits, but a 30A MWBC would be excessively rare unless you had two travel trailers. <S> Two individual breakers with no tie. <S> and that's about all I can think of <S> that uses single 30A . <S> However, two 30A breakers can be handle-tied for use on plain-240V loads as mentioned above. <S> I have seen panels where a handle-tie was conspicuously missing, and then I look closer at the dust in the bottom of the panel, and there <S> it is . <S> It had fallen off while someone was moving breakers around. <S> So check the bottom of your panel. <S> I accidentally bought a bunch of 30A 1-pole breakers. <S> That's why I know so much about what they can and cannot do. <A> 2 x 30 amp 120 volt circuit breakers makes a 30 amp 240 volt circuit, as you need. <S> However, as the comment by @threephaseeel implies, the breakers must be adjacent and the handles tied so that they will trip together to be code compliant. <S> This assumes that the two breakers are in opposit legs, which is true if they are adjacent, in most panels. <S> If they are in the same leg, they cannot produce 240 volts but will produce 0 if used together. <A> In a USA 240 V a/c circuit there are two breakers (usually in a single unit called a 2-pole common trip breaker) connected in series on a single wiring path so that the current alternately flows out of one breaker, through the wire connected to that breaker, through the load (here the dryer), out of the load and into the other wire and finally into the other breaker. <S> The two breakers must be on different legs of the bus for this to work. <S> If your dryer circuit is supplied by two separate 1-pole breakers which do not have a common trip and if the two breakers are on separate legs of the bus (i.e., 240 V between the two breakers), then the dryer would work, but this would not be according to code and could lead to a dangerous condition or could possibly damage the dryer (not sure about the latter). <S> One could connect two breakers in an arrangement in which one would add the current in the two breakers. <S> However this is not used because it is pointless, dangerous, and not according to code, but I will describe it so that you can better understand why you do <S> not add the currents in the case you are asking about. <S> From the load another wire would go back to the panel but to the neutral, not to another breaker. <S> In this arrangement, the current passing through the third wire and supplied to the load (and carried by the neutral wire back to the panel) would be the sum of the currents through the two breakers. <S> So if the current in each breaker was say 25 A, then 50 A would be supplied to the load. <S> (Also the voltage of such a circuit would be 120 V, not 240 V as in the standard case.)
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You could connect separate wires to two different breakers which are on the same leg of the bus (i.e., zero volts between them) and then connect those wires together with a third wire to go to a load. This has both common trip and common maintenance shutoff . So one does not add the current flowing in the two breakers; there is only one current path flowing through both breakers. These are only good at 30A for plain 120V circuits, such as ... um... gosh ... small travel trailers that use a TT30 connection, Also, they must use a list handle tie, not just a nail or such. But as I said you will not encounter this arrangement because it is not something that accomplishes anything that cannot be done safely and according to code.
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Cleaning an interior Brick Wall I had a fridge that I moved out of the way exposing another section of my brick wall, but there is a noticeable difference between the newly exposed brick and the rest. I'm not sure what this stuff is on the surface & how to get rid of it. Any help would be much appreciated. <Q> That brick wall has a lot of character! <S> Cleaning brick can be messy, so have plenty of old towels on hand or use some drop cloths. <S> I would suggest cleaning all of the brick with a hard bristled brush. <S> Use either a mixture of soap, vinegar and water or you can clean it with a solution of muriatic acid and water. <S> If you go the acid route, be sure to wear gloves and eye protection. <S> Follow mixing directions on the acid container carefully. <S> Also, be sure to ventilate the area well. <S> You can do the cleaning in small sections and when you rinse, dab it with a thick towel. <S> If you want to bring a natural uniform look back to the brick, allow the surface to dry and apply a uniform coat of Brick Sealer . <S> Sealer will bring out the original color of the brick and give it a nice shine. <S> The sealer is also available in a low-luster version. <A> I had a customer use corn cob media in a sandblaster to get all foreign material off without disfigurement of the brick and morter. <S> The room needs to be masked off and it takes a lot of media per square foot but the end result is a beautiful wall. <S> Different sand blast media gives different results. <A> It is likely that the area of the room where the refrigerator was not protecting the wall has attained the darker color due to the bricks being exposed to air flow including air that carried dust and even oils from cooking in the kitchen. <S> It really does look to me that the newly exposed area is the more "uncontaminated" surface. <S> You may be tempted to think that a pressure washer may make that cleaning job easier <S> but, besides the huge mess that would make, it does not look like the ancient brick work could stand up to that, especially much of the questionable mortar joints. <A> Some of that might be due to natural oxidizing of the exposed bricks due to exposure to UV in sunlight from the windows and when the fridge was there, it blocked that UV light. <S> So one option is that you could leave it alone and see if the newly exposed brick "catches up" to the old stuff in terms of the oxidization. <S> It might be that in 6 months you will not notice it any more.
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It may be possible to attempt to clean the original brick faces with a good scrub brush and hot soapy water. Either way, be sure to rinse the surface with plain water.
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Which bolt pattern to sister a ceiling joist? I need to sister a ceiling joist — put a2x6 8ft piece next to existing joist, and fasten with 1/2 inch bolts. It will be supported by a stud wall on one end (but not other end) Anybody knows what are the rules about bolt pattern for such repair?Is this described in any building code orsomewhere else? <Q> From the image it looks more like a 2nd collar tie or a rafter tie then a ceiling joist. <S> A ceiling joist would have the ceiling finish material attached to the bottom of it. <S> In the case of a collar tie just a generous 3/8" bead of construction adhesive in a zigzag pattern. <S> Clamp it if you can and nail it vertically with three 16d nails vertically and 16" apart. <S> Ensure that your sister extends at least 3' beyond the break. <S> If you are trying to repair a sag or rafter spread it is a different repair <A> Wow...great drawings, that really helps. <S> The top picture does not seem to correlate to the bottom picture: 1) the horizontal member is not painted in top picture, but is in bottom, 2) black poly sheeting in bottom picture is not in top, 3) <S> adjacent roof rafters (that are 10” away) are not visible in bottom picture, <S> Nevertheless, the roof system indicates an addition was added exactly where this roof joist was added...see change in roof sheathing in bottom picture. <S> The roof structure is not a truss, but members have been added to help support the roof. <S> There are several issues: 1) the roof joists are not large enough to span the 90”, 2) <S> the lower horizontal ties (including the damaged member) help support the 2x4 roof members, 3) the damaged member does not support the ceiling finish below, as seen in the bottom picture. <S> Therefore, the notched member has never done much for the structural integrity of the roof. <S> That is to say, it does not have much load on it. <S> There is no mention of sag in your original OP. <S> If the entire ceiling is sagging, it’s not due to this notch <S> , it’s due to the small roof joists. <S> That member is essentially half the size of the adjacent members (because of the notch), but it’s carrying half the load because it’s between the adjacent members. <S> If you must sister a joist, I’d use a 2x4 and nail (or screw) with 10d nails placed about one inch from the top edge and one inch from the bottom edge and stagger the nails so the wood does not split. <S> Make sure there’s 5 nails each side of notch. <A> There is no reason to use 1/2" bolts to secure a sistered joist to an existing joist. <S> You should be able to use 3/8" bolts with no problem. <S> Your best bet is to use construction adhesive to bond the sistered joist to the original (as long as the original is a clean piece of wood without rot or being wet from water damage). <S> You can select the 3/8" bolt pattern such that such bolts secure the sistered component in place and compress the glue joint to ensure a good bond. <S> There should be no reason to have bolts closer than 24" to 36" apart although each instance should be a pair to keep the sistered joist flat against the host joist. <A> So if I have this you're not sistering the joist along <S> it's entire unsupported span, you're attaching a repair section to stiffen it in the damaged area. <S> I don't think for one damaged ceiling joist I'd go to any huge lengths to make a repair. <S> I would probably sandwich the damaged section between two 8' boards or even two pieces of OSB or plywood. <S> I'd attach the repair material with nails in a "W" pattern. <S> Actually in this case I might use structural screws since I picture the joist being a pain to nail. <S> I think using a larger number of smaller fasteners in a "W" pattern will weaken what's left of the joist less. <S> The "W" pattern avoids splitting from two fasteners breaking along the same line in the grain. <S> If you do use bolts, I'd use lots of 1/4" bolts and big washers, and again in a "W" pattern. <S> The idea here is for the bolts to clamp the new piece tightly to the old, not for the bolts to bear the load in shear. <S> I am not sure whether I'd reinforce it with a construction adhesive. <S> I am not sure the glue would hold up when you walk on that joist <S> but I guess it couldn't hurt.
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There is nothing in the Code that explains how to sister members or fix notched members, except that loads shall be transferred to solid members.
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Moisture is leaking through my basement walls, but the house is surrounded by concrete. Worth fixing? I'm in Minneapolis, in a house built in 1886, fully renovated a few years ago. The basement is finished. This has been an extremely wet winter, with lots of snow and ice that is now melting. Some guests pointed out a damp patch of carpet in the basement. When I pulled it up, it looks like water is leaking in through an exterior wall. I can't see more without taking off the drywall. The basement has leaked only once previously, but that was due to a blocked sewer clean-out pipe, and that is not the cause this time. The house is surrounded an all sides by sidewalk. It is graded/angled to allow for drainage. The house has gutters, but they are completely blocked with ice. I suspect that the leak is related to the build-up of ice on the sidewalk. I am deciding between these options: Pay a contractor to come in and investigate. Because there is sidewalk on the exterior, I expect any repairs will be very expensive. Just fix the damage, and in the future try to be more diligent about keeping the sidewalk clear of ice. What are your thoughts? <Q> I would get the ice away from the walls by a yard or so to try and minimize the incoming. <S> Drying out the damage is next - perhaps a dehumidifier... <S> Could you consider a drastic (and expensive probably) solution - by excavating down each outside wall and putting a treatment to seal the wall, also uses a plastic membrane ( <S> the one we had to use has "hats or thimbles" molded into it to make it 1/2" thick to allow the water to drain. <S> You could also consider adding a layer of insulation to the wall at the same time if appropriate... <A> I would clear the ice and dry the area out fans circulating air work quite well in the winter because humidity levels are low. <S> Since it has not been a problem in the past I would probably just do as you said and keep the sidewalks clear, but probably would not invest a lot unless this becomes a regular problem. <A> The issue likely is hydrostatic water pressure on the outside of your foundation, basically the water level in the soil is higher than your footing and pushing in through the wall or even under the slab. <S> Being that your house is so old, it's likely that it does not have this drain or it has been clogged or otherwise compromised. <S> I doubt that it has anything to do with the ice <S> but rather just the normal melting of snow and ice turning into water that goes into the soil and flows like a wet sponge. <S> Yes, it's expensive to fix especially since you have the sidewalk. <S> Thinking outside the box here, you might be able to do a drain a bit away from your footing to intercept the water before it gets to your home, and this would just be a ditch and would not require replacing your sidewalk. <S> I would talk to an civil engineer first though to see what they think of the idea. <S> Otherwise, it will happen each time you have similar winters. <S> You can just live with it and dry things out. <S> Perhaps set up your flooring so that it is not damaged by being wet.
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This is normally prevented by a footing drain just above the footing that has holes in it to gather the water and then drains somewhere away from the house. A dehumidifier could further speed the drying.
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Is all copper pipe pretty much the same? Is there different levels of quality in copper plumbing pipe? I see copper pipe at Home Depot and I assume plumbing supply stores sell it too. Does pretty much everybody sell the same quality of copper pipe, or are there differences I should be aware of? By copper pipe, I mean the typical 1/2" and 3/4" copper pipe used in residential plumbing applications. <Q> However I think your question is whether copper pipe is really a commodity type product - whether there's a difference between products of the same grade / type made by various manufacturers and sold by various retailers and wholesalers. <S> This is a common question <S> but it's a tough one. <S> One the one hand <S> , there are standards that apply to these products and any product that meets the standard should be adequate for the purpose. <S> That may lead you to conclude that standardization makes these products essentially commodities. <S> On the other hand, big retailers press manufacturers very very hard for low pricing, and are not nearly as tough on quality; DIY customers are not as demanding as the plumbing contractors, maintenance people, etc. <S> that shop at plumbing supply houses catering to contractors. <S> Big box retailers are going to cater to their customers and their customers are primarily concerned with price. <S> It's also very possible that a brand may have to lower their quality (within acceptable standards) to win a spot in a big box store. <S> It's even possible that a manufacturer may make the same exact product to a higher standard for supply houses and to a lower standard for big box retailers. <S> In my opinion, I have seen all three of these scenarios unfold over the last ten years as big box stores have grown and become more powerful in the market. <A> There is copper tubing and there is copper water tube as defined in ASTM B-88. <S> Tubing is usually soft and comes in coils. <S> Water tubing is usually cold drawn and comes in straight lengths. <S> K, L, and M are different wall thicknesses of water tubing ; an example for size 3/4 " is- <S> K = 0.065 <S> " <S> , L= 0.045", and M = 0.032". <S> All 3/4 copper water tube has a 0.875 " outer diameter. <S> ( My ASTM B 88 is old but they don't change these dimensions.) . <S> However K is often annealed so also comes in coils. <S> Tubing and water tubing are the same composition , more or less pure copper. <S> So ASTM B 88 water tubing is the moral equivalent of pipe but with a different name. <A> There are a few different kinds of copper pipe at Home Depot (and I assume other home stores). <S> For rigid copper pipe, there is Type M and Type L. <S> Type M is thinner walled and normally has red markings on it. <S> Type L is quite a bit thicker and will have blue markings. <S> The color of the markings could be brand specific, but that's what I'm used to seeing. <S> Also there is bendable copper that is normally used for A/C lines. <S> It is sold in rolls and usually not used for water. <S> The letters don't stand for anything. <S> They are in alphabetical order. <S> There is also Type K which is thicker and made for direct burial, but its not usually found in retail stores. <A> There are many different types of copper. <S> There are hard measured by inside diameter drawn and soft drawn measured by outside diameter. <S> Of the hard drawn (pipe lengths) there are type DWV, M, L and K. DWV is the thinnest and K is the thickest. <S> For residential type K is not used often and type M is the most common. <S> Soft drawn (coils) come in the same types but a 5/8 soft copper fits in a 1/2 copper fitting... <S> The reason for the seemingly over complicated answer is that Home Depot and Lowe's will sell soft copper rolls in 1/2 inch and 3/4 that are domestic waste and vent (type DWV). <S> The two types a DIYer will run into are M and L. But watch out for the soft copper from big box hardware stores. <A> Would it better to go with Type K if you need to buy from a big box store (or anywhere else for that matter)? <S> Aside the increased cost, is there any reason not to use K? <A> from the plumbing code604.3 Copper or Copper Alloy Tube. <S> Copper or copper alloy tube for water piping shall have a weight of not less than Type L.Exception: <S> Type M copper or copper alloy tubing shall be permitted to be used for water piping where piping is above ground in, or on, a building or underground outside of structures. <S> M is suitable for exposed and inside walls in residential dwellings. <S> L is suitable exposed and for the water pipe ground for the service entrance to a dwelling. <S> K is used for underground piping inside buildings and annealed copper rolls. <S> K can be used in lieu of l and m and l can be used in lieu of m. M will develop pin holes sooner due to its thin walls and is also subject to physical damage. <S> L is better and k is the best but is extremely expensive but is good where there is corrosive water or wet soils. <S> Plastics are now a much more affordable choice for water piping and are corrosion free. <S> DWV is an acronym for DRAIN, WASTE, VENT and refers to sewer system piping it is very expensive in copper and rarely used for drain lines.
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There are different grades and types of copper pipe that you of course should be aware of. It's very possible that in some cases the same product from the same manufacturer is identical quality whether purchased in a big box store or in a specialty supply house.
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How do I calculate my monthly water usage? In terms of water usage, how much is 10 cubic meters of water? I ask this because I live in a small apartment with another person and our monthly water bill is now over 6 times higher. When I called the water company, they tell me that they give me 10 cubic meters of water per month, and during the last bill we used 29 cubic meters of water (almost triple the allowed use). Nothing in our water usage has changed, so I guess my question is how much is 10 cubic meters of water in terms of showering, doing laundry, etc? In our case, we both take two showers per day and we do laundry once (sometimes twice) per week. But nothing else has changed. <Q> 1 cubic meter is 1,000 liters of water.1,000 liters is about 264 gallons. <S> You are allotted 10 cubic meters or 2,640 gallons, which is quite a lot. <S> The Average American Shower is about 17 gallons. <S> 4 showers per day times 31 days is 2,108 gallons of water. <S> Your worst case scenario for Washing Machine Water Usage is about 25 gallons, at 6 times per month that would be 150 gallons. <S> Also, consider that a toilet flush is about 2 gallons. <S> If you flush twice per day that's another 125 gallons of water. <S> You can figure about that much for typical hand washing, etc. <S> At this point you are at about 2,500 gallons (9,463 liters). <S> That's roughly about what you are allowed to use. <S> Do you have a separate water meter? <S> If so, record the reading. <S> Take another reading the next month and get the difference, multiply by what the meter calls for to determine your usage. <S> Turn all of the water off in your apartment and go see if the meter is spinning. <S> If so, you have a leak somewhere. <S> Check to make sure the toilet flapper is not allowing water to run after you flush. <S> This will make the toilet keep trying to fill. <S> Do you have any water dripping at faucets or underneath the sinks? <S> Check your dishwasher settings. <S> Change the aerators in your shower and sinks. <S> Anything you can do to reduce your water consumption will ultimately lower your bill. <A> I'm going to have to put this in terms I understand, but 10 cubic meters of water (is that really what the water company quotes you?) <S> is 2,600 gallons or 10,000 liters. <S> Lets say a shower takes 10 minutes, and uses about 2.5 gallons per minute (assuming a low-flow shower head). <S> That's 25 gallons per shower. <S> Laundry is going to be around the same amount depending on the machine used. <S> You're going to wash hands and flush toilets, so there's more water on top of what you stated. <S> So, your usage doesn't seem to add up to that much. <S> However, one leaky toilet can use a lot of water quickly. <S> If the flush valve sticks open, the water is going to run at around 2 gallons per minute. <S> If that happens all night (8 hours) that would be 8 * 60 <S> * 2 <S> = ~1000 gallons of water in just one night! <S> Unexpected water usage is often because of leaky toilets or faucets. <S> Irrigation is another major offender, but not in an apartment. <A> If your shower uses 20l/min and you have a 5 minute shower that is 100 litres. <S> So, for 4 showers that is 400 litres per day. <S> If, however your showers are 15 or 20 minutes then at 20 minutes * 20l/min that is 4000 litres... <S> Then factor in if you have the tap running when you clean your teeth, you sink water use for shaving etc... <S> And how many times you use the toilet and flush per day each <S> - does the toilet have <S> a dual-flush or not - that can also make a big difference... <S> The only way to estimate is to record your detailed activity and the volume flow for each item and work out what is happening...
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10 cubic metres is 10,000 litres.
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Plywood subfloor won't screw down in a trailer home I'm remodeling my mom's bathroom and I'm putting 1/4 inch plywood down on top of the floor to get a smooth surface. The existing floor is strong but there was some deflection in it and it's not as smooth as I would like for stick-down tile. My question is when screwing the quarter-inch plywood down, I can't get the screws to the bite down to go all the way in. Any answers to what kind of screws I could use to screw it down? I do not have a compressor for a nail gun or staple gun to do it that way and I don't think quarter-inch plywood would be okay with staples. I just really need to know what screws will bite down and countersink. <Q> When you say "bite down" do you mean: <S> It actually goes through the layer beneath the newly laid 1/4" plywood and simply spins as though it's stripped and will not counter sink, or It will not even sink far enough for the head of the screw to even touch the new layer of plywood? <S> If it's option 1, are you using a wood screw or machine screw? <S> A machine screw (self tapping or otherwise) would not be a good option for use in this scenario, or most scenarios when the underlying material you're fastening to is wood. <S> The threads are too fine and tend to strip the holes easily. <S> You should be using a wood screw, which has fewer threads per inch (TPI). <S> If it's option 2, I would agree with @JPhi1618. <S> At minimum, the driving depth of a fastener should be no less than double the material you are fastening. <S> In this case, you are fastening 1/4" plywood, and the math says <S> 1/4" x 2 = 1/2". <S> Therefore, your screw should be at least 1/2" long. <S> I am guessing that what you mean by a "stick down tile", you are referring to a peel and stick flooring? <S> Similar to found here <S> Home Depot link to the example picture <S> Personally, I would be hesitant to use a concrete backer, simply because of the amount of dust that sits on top of the backer regardless of how many times you sweep or vacuum, but that's just personal choice. <S> (I just made that word up) and is less likely to have corners curl up prematurely or bubbles appear from what might seem "out of the blue". <S> Best practice, for sure, is to follow the manufacturer's suggestions on underlayment and surface prep. <S> Hope this helps! <A> They come in different types but the first two in the photo below will countersink 1/4" plywood easily. <A> The 1/4" plywood is not the problem if the screws won't "bite". <S> The problem is the material under the plywood which is probably very thin and could be deteriorated especially in a trailer or mobile home. <S> Screws are the right thing to use. <S> Stapes or nails would pull out. <S> There are special screws made to put down cement board under tiles that have flat heads and wide teeth that will grab the subfloor. <S> They are made for cement board, but should give similar results with plywood. <S> The key is still getting enough bite to countersink the heads. <S> Example of backer board screws <S> If the floor doesn't want to handle better screws (and putting holes in the floor of a trailer might not be a great thing), I think that using adhesive would be the next best option. <S> Also, if you can afford a little more weight, using 1/4" cement board might give you a flatter surface. <A> It seems to me that the reason the screws aren't pulling in is because of the shank of the screw being as thick as the combined material. <S> The OP states that the original floor is solid. <S> Maybe it's a case of 1/2" ply flooring with 1/4" ply going down, using 2" screws with a 3/4" shank. <S> If that's the case a wide shankless screw would be great. <S> Something like a 1" bugle or flat head #8 would work well. <S> I put peel and sticks down once and wasn't happy with the process. <S> I used 3m spray adhesive and then layed the tile. <S> Anatomy of a screw https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oz5wIDhAhWE0YMKHQokDY0QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2Fabout-us%2Fnews%2Fkreg-tool-tips-joining%2Fanatomy-of-a-pocket-hole-screw.aspx&psig=AOvVaw1t8n608H3d1xvpxQCXfTCL&ust=1552614224018095
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Consider using a shorter screw so you are not piercing the underside of the floor. Regardless, I would definitely suggest priming the surface to help ensure a dust-free, clean surface so the tiles will have a better stick-to-it-ness This could potentially allow moister to wick in from the underside and rot out the exposed ends of the screws and eventually the subflooring. Make sure it's finish ply and painting it is a good idea. Spax Multi Material Construction Screws are what I use the most.
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Want to switch to tankless, but can I use my existing wiring? The tankless water heaters I am looking at require 8 AWG wire but the existing wiring is 12 AWG. Can I do this without having to rerun new wire? <Q> If a heater requires 8 AWG wire, <S> it's because it requires more electricity than a smaller wire <S> is capable of safely delivering. <S> If you used the 12 AWG wire, first the 20A breaker would trip, but if that was upgraded (DO NOT) then the wire itself would turn into a heater and burn down the house. <S> What I'm saying here is that when too much electricity is run through a wire that is too small, it heats up. <S> Wire sizes are based on keeping a wire cool enough to not cause a fire when it's used. <S> Wire sizes are hard requirements, not suggestions. <S> The only option here is to run new wire or choose a smaller water heater. <A> Even new wiring of the proper size might not be enough because your electric service might not have enough capacity for a central electric tankless <S> WH. <S> What is the make and model of the tankless water heater you are hoping to install? <S> If you look at the installation reuirements, it will probably require two or three 40 A breakers and of course separate wiring for each breaker. <S> The simplest course of action is simply to replace your electric tank with another electric tank which has the same power requirements. <S> If you have a natural gas furnace, you might be able to install a natural gas fired tankless water heater, but this might require running new gas pipe to supply both the furnace and the water heater. <S> And it would be very expensive to have installed. <A> To give this question some perspective, let's consider a chart. <S> This shows how hot your wires will get for a given AWG size and current. <S> If we follow the 12AWG line, which is required to be protected by a 20A breaker, we see that the wire will heat to about 10C above ambient (ie: ~32C in normal room temperature, or 90F for those who refuse to join the modern world) when carrying its full rated load of 20A <S> If we follow the 8AWG line, which must be protected by a 40A breaker, we see that it too will heat to about 10C above ambient when carrying its full load current of 40A. <S> If, however, we follow the 12AWG line out to where it crosses 40A, we find that the wire will now heat to 60C above ambient, or 82C (180F) in our standard room when overloaded to 40A. <S> This is not trivial . <S> The temperatures below, further, are for single insulated, "free air" cables. <S> In a house you will certainly have double-insulated wire and it will be stuffed into walls, through insulation, and in all types of other circumstances that will only make this situation worse. <S> Use the right wire gauges - always. <S> It's not an option <S> and it's not a nervous-nellie fearmongering story about burning your house down - <S> the difference is dramatic. <S> Rules are there for a reason.
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You cannot use an electric tankless water heater in place of an electric tank without a significant upgrade in wiring and most probably adding new breakers to make a total of two or three breakers.
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I need to drive a 7/16" nut but am unsure how to use the socket I bought for my screwdriver I have this 7/16" hex nut (in front) and I tried to order in amazon an adapter that can make my 1/4 hex bit torque screwdriver drive it. When I received the package. It was all wrong. The 7/16" was the size of the hex bit and the 1/2 is the size of the square wrench (I need all to be hexagon or 6 sides, not 4 sided). What is the proper way to do this? I also bought adapter for 1/4 hex to 1/2 hex thinking the male size was 1/2 size (when it fact it was 7/16" size) <Q> You need two things.... <S> 1/4" drive 7/16" socket ...and a 1/4" hex shank socket adapter ... <S> That adapter kit will allow you to use multiple drives of sockets for hundreds of future uses. <S> You probably already have some sockets. <A> What you bought was a hex bit socket , not a simple hex socket. <S> What's confusing you here is the bit coming out of the top of the socket. <S> You've confused that for a drill shank. <S> The square portion is where you would attach a 1/2" ratchet (or drill socket adapter, like Jerry described in his answer). <S> Harbor Freight describes their hex bit set like this Ideal for removing and replacing hex fasteners in automotive and machinery applications, such as hex cap bolts and screws, this hex bit socket set is perfect for any shop or garage. <S> What you need to buy is a regular 7/16" socket (these are common) and a drill socket adapter (Jerry covered that in his answer) <A> What you are looking for is 1/4 X1/4 Hex driver. <S> Go to Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware or any large hardware or tool type store. <S> Tell them what you want and they can sell you what you need <S> I have all sizes and <S> if you were my neighbor you could have 1 of mine. <A> Have a look at this type of nut driver - 1/4” hex drive and various sizes in A/F and metric : <S> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J3O4RYS/ref=sspa_mb_hqp_detail_mobile_aax_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <S> But there are probably other suppliers with differing quality...
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There are some one piece cheapos on the market that do work, but you have to buy all new kits when either the shank or socket portion wears down or breaks.
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Possible Leak In Concrete I recently noticed that our outside wall has a wet looking spot around the faucet. I tried looking in the wall at the pipe (from the unfinished basement), but I couldn’t see very far because the hole is small (maybe could see an inch into the wall) and I couldn’t see any condensation from what I could see. Is there anyway to easily diagnose if there is a leak? There is a little bit of clearance around the pipe hole, but not much. <Q> I have seen copper pipe have small pin holes on several occasions. <S> The only way to repair is to replace that section of pipe. <S> When I do this kind of repair I make sure to use thick wall copper because it will last longer than thinwall. <A> If you live in a colder weather climate (though your picture indicates that you probably don't due to plants showing at this time of year, and it's not a freeze-proof sillcock), you may have an inside shutoff valve to that outside faucet. <S> If you do have an inside shutoff valve, you could turn that off for a couple days and see if the dampness reduces or disappears. <S> If it does, that would indicate that the faucet plumbing is the culprit. <S> If not, look elsewhere. <S> Is there any plumbing in the walls above that location that might be leaking down? <S> Bathrooms or showers/tubs that may be leaking into the floor and running out? <S> A window that might allow water to get behind the siding and drip down to the foundation? <S> Roof or gutter issue allowing water to run down behind the siding in that location? <A> If you have access to the inside of the wall put up some cling wrap on the wall. <S> Relatively quickly you should see where water is leaking. <S> You can do this above, under, and to the sides of this faucet. <S> Also it wouldn't hurt to dig a foot or two down on the outside and create a temporary well. <S> If you do this three foot across on the outside and 18" down you can then view what the wet concrete looks like in a week or so. <S> If it looks the same you know that your wet concrete is from an indoor leak for sure. <S> If the wet area keeps traveling down to the well line it could also be excessive water at that spot on the outside being trapped there and wicking upward.
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Though the dampness all the way up to your siding would indicate that the faucet itself may not be the culprit, especially if you don't see any direct signs of water either on the inside or outside, and dampness might not typically run against gravity that far unless it's really flowing. If your pipe is copper and in contact with the cement this may be the cause. If you wait too long to look at said cling wrap, it could all be wet.
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When cutting wood do you add the width of the blade after the line mark? Im new to using a circular saw and would like to improve my accuracy, If I have a blade that is 2mm thick do I add this on after the current line that I have marked and then cut down that? Thanks <Q> A circular saw isn't a super precise cutting tool <S> so you'll want to keep that in mind. <S> Lining the notch on the shoe is not going to give you super accurate cuts. <S> Its fine for framing but may not be for other tasks. <S> To me a cutting guide is the best way to improve your accuracy. <S> They are very cheap and easy to make, and they speed up your work quite a bit. <S> Here's a link to one of many how-to's: making a cutting guide <S> If you make your marks on the waste side of the measurement, you can quickly and easily line up the guide to the edge of the mark, and get a pretty darn close to perfect cut quick and easy. <A> One always cuts on the waste side of the line with whatever cutting tool that is being used. <S> Trimming exactly down to size, ie the line, is usually done with something that gives a finer finish. <S> For wood I use a router and usually clamp a guide to the work if possible. <A> , I was taught make the mark on the cut side. <S> With framing a blade width is not a big deal but you will find once you pick a method, measure 2x and cut once you will get a repeatable length. <S> Make sure to use a Square so your cuts are at a 90 <S> this is more important than a slight length difference in my opinion. <A> It really comes down to what your error tolerance is, and then personal preference. <S> For coarse cuts, such as those needed for rough framing, you generally don't need to sweat this small detail. <S> For more precise cutting, you'll want to consider a number of factors, including (a) the actual width of the cut from the saw blade (its "kerf" ), (b) <S> the thickness of your pencil marks, and (c) your ability to cut exactly along the intended line. <S> You can handle (a) and (b) by choosing a convention based on personal preference. <S> For example, that the resulting piece of material should go up to the pencil mark, but should not include it. <S> Once you have that convention in place, it's a matter of adhering to it when making your marks and when positioning your saw blade. <S> Handling (c) is a whole topic unto itself, but there's no shortage of products, tricks, and internet videos to help you with that part. <S> If you're coordinating your work with other people, you'd need to make sure you're all on the same page. <S> I don't know if there's some convention regarding this that's widely assumed throughout the construction industry. <A> If you need a peice of wood 10cm long from a 20cm peice, you mark your line at 10cm. <S> But your blade will make 2 cuts one at 10cm and one at 9.8cm if measured from the other side. <S> Normally you cut off the waste because the peice you are measuring is what you want. <S> Sometimes you need to add the blade. <S> If you are marking 3 pieces at 10cm off a 40cm peice your first mark is 10cm then 20.2cm and 30.4cm. <A> You should measure and mark like someone else is cutting. <S> If your board needs to be 47 1/16" your mark should be straight at that exact length. <S> Someone who is accurately cutting should cut so that you see the mark but no gap. <S> That brings up another point. <S> This is why people mark with a pencil. <S> I have worked with guys who mark with a sharpie or marker and it is like why even measure? <S> Your line is 1/8" thick. <S> Where do I cut this? <S> Marking this with a carpenter's pencil, marking it at the accurate location, and cutting it right is not only an art but an assembly procedure for any crew. <S> If you have a 3 or 4 man crew framing - especially during a build - the guy marking will often not be cutting.
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What matters is that you cut at the measured point, I use the notch on my saws to get close but actually look at the blade in relation to the cut if it needs to be close. It really dosenot matter, we all may do it slightly different, one answer says make the arrow on the good side
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Turning a hard to access nut? Working on the propane conversion of my gas stove. One of the orifices to be changed is in a very hard to access location - shown in the photo. The orifice is the "nut" I'm referring to, which you can fit a wrench onto. Although it is possible to get a wrench on it there is a very limited range of motion due to surrounding apparatus. I've tried to mark this in the photo with the red lines. The very short arc that the wrench can turn in means that it never gets a 'bite' on the orifice / nut and I can't even loosen it. It would be much more work to disassemble the other parts in this area, so I'm hoping for a solution to remove and then reinstall just the orifice part. Maybe there's a specialty type of wrench... or something else I'm not thinking of. <Q> A Crowfoot Wrench would work nicely. <S> A 10 piece set of these is only $15.00 <A> I'm a gas fitter and service tech. <S> My bag has the tools to do the job. <S> Sometimes these tight spots require a bit of a turn with one tool and a bit of a turn with another. <S> A lot of the available arc can be chewed up by lash, torsion and flex of components. <S> The first tool I'd reach for, for something like this is a line wrench. <S> I'd get a 12 point <S> Amazon <S> After all, this is the tool <S> made for this job <S> If that didn't work it's the 6" or 8" Knipex Cobra <S> Home Depot <S> These are amazing and are designed to avoid stripping and marring. <A> What you may be overlooking, or what may not be present on your wrench, is the the open wrench is not square to the shaft. <S> It is canted by 1/24 of a circle (15 degrees). <S> As a result, there's a 30 degree difference between the wrench (normal) and (flipped). <S> That means you only need a 30 degree arc of motion, not a 60 degree arc. <S> When you run out of travel, remove the wrench, flip it over, raise it 1/12 of a circle (30 degrees), and it will fit on the next flat. <S> If your range of motion is being compromised by the wrench being all loosy-goosey on the nut (that's a technical term), then you have the wrong size wrench . <S> Do not proceed further because you'll damage the hex corners, which will make the lash problem much worse . <S> In particular, watch out for English vs. Metric. <S> The only wrench sizes that match up are 3/4=19mm, all others will be sloppy. <S> An adjustable wrench (commonly called a 'monkey wrench', inaccurately) is one answer, but you have to get that <S> tight and might have to retighten on every turn. <S> It certainly looks like you have more than 30 degrees of motion there (though perhaps not quite 60 degrees). <S> If you are tighter than 30 degrees, first stop and think about how the manufacturer intended this thing to be serviced, because not least, they had to build it <S> and they certainly didn't want their factory workers spending 10 minutes fastening this one thing. <S> If the range of motion is simply impossible, then you need the extreme options offered by others, or perhaps a "stubby" (short length) wrench that allows you to work inside the obstructions... <A> The best tool I have found for the type of application you are working with is a 12-point split-box wrench. <S> These are also available in a 6-point design. <S> (Picture Source: http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14256/css/Types-and-Uses-Continued-156.htm ) <S> The split end lets the wrench get onto a fitting even when a tubing is inline. <S> The box construction also gets better grip on the fitting than trying to use a conventional open ended flat sided wrench. <S> The 12-point design and ability to flip the wrench over if needed from stroke to stroke makes this the tool of choice if the working angle to the fitting is small. <A> An open end Ratchet wrench is likely the best tool for this job. <S> Something like this: <A> One solution I have is a set of wrenches with angled heads - you can see one end has a greater angle than the other, very handy in many situations : <S> Mind you <S> , the set cost me quite a bit... <S> But that was a long time ago. <A> EDIT <S> this won't work because in this instance the fastener is obstructed by a pipe. <S> Leaving for completeness. <S> There appears to be plenty of width to the slot. <S> How about a socket with a long extension bar and a universal joint? <S> They add slop <S> but that's no more than annoying. <S> You'd require a deep socket to go over any bolt too. <A> Try an open-end ratcheting wrench. <S> Here's a video showing how they work at about 30 seconds into it; manufacturer demo and not intended as an endorsement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWBlQdporxE <A> I would try with my socket set and ratchet handle. <S> If there's enough space to get the socket and ratchet over the nut, then you need only a few degrees of wiggle at right-angles to the nut in order to un-do it one click of the ratchet at a time. <S> (Also you can be sure of getting the nut back on, whereas if you get it off with an open wrench of any sort, this may prove to be a problem!) <S> I have seen the equivalent of a ring spanner with a ratchet mechanism built in, which is hardly any thicker than any standard wrench. <S> I have yet to need to buy one, but it's probably the ultimate solution to such a problem. <S> This is an example : Before anybody points this out: ratchet mechanisms are "weak". <S> They do not allow one to exert really high torque, and tend to fail if you try to dislodge a really stubborn nut, for example by bashing the handle with a hammer. <S> Then switch to the ratchet. <A> I suggest the wrench is the wrong size for a perfect fit on the nut. <S> Plumbing fittings are commonly made in their own peculiar series of sizes. <S> Just a little misfit at the nut becomes a large loss-of-movement at the handle. <S> Suggest you explore the fit. <S> If it is desperate, you might be able to shim the wrench for a neat fit on the nut.
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If this is a problem, start with a standard wrench to loosen the nut a little.
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What is an efficient way of moving home? I have been moving so many times in the past few years, usually on my own without any help. It’s exhausting and painful. I’ve probably become more efficient over time but I’m still trying to figure things out and the fear of next move scared me to death while I’m unpacking in the new place for a couple of months now! I usually keep all the boxes for appliances from the grater and teapot to that exercise thing, etc. I have been wondering if it would be more efficient and less time consuming if I get rid of all these boxes and pack/move them only by wrapping clothes around them? The concern about that approach is that then clothes would be mixed up with kitchen items and separating them would also be time consuming. Should I keep the boxes or not? How do you move and what tips do you have to ease of the pain of this process? <Q> The #1 asset of any frequent mover is a private mail box or PMB such as the UPS Store. <S> It means you always get your mail . <S> I know many people who don't use PMBs and have nasty tax bills, <S> credit burns and even arrest warrants (on failure to appear) because a trivial problem festered into a bad one. <S> The DMV, the IRS, banks, creditors, all exclusively use postal mail for anything timely or urgent. <S> It is simply impossible to contact everyone every time you move - seriously, who remembers the IRS or the SSA? <S> PMBs are pricey but they work. <S> Everyone accepts PMBs. <S> The PMB can receive UPS or FedEx and even sign for you . <S> You can reach a human, give credit card # and they'll forward your mail anywhere in the world . <S> Sometimes I just have them mail mine if I don't have time to go over there. <S> They'll call you if you get a certified letter. <S> Even at-the-house utilities like the gas company, always tell them to send your mail to the PMB, which they will cheerfully do. <S> That means you get your last statement . <S> Life just works so much better with a PMB. <S> Granted, I just spent a lot of time on your second question. <S> Those are for your stuff. <S> If it's easy and you have the space, sure, why not save original boxes. <S> I don't work that hard at it, unless the appliance is delicate and likely to take damage in shipping (NOT a microwave). <S> That said, the custom shipping foam blocks are the only thing that makes the box worth saving. <S> I often see people with a coffeemaker set in the bottom of its original box, with the foams missing or thrown away. <S> That defeats the purpose of saving the box; the coffeemaker won't be protected from damage anymore than in any other box. <S> So why keep a weird box around? <S> Moving is just a lot of packing and 1000 trips to the car. <S> That's just what it is. <S> If you are sick of it, hire out the "1000 trips to the car" job to some "two guys and a truck" type operation, that's not so expensive, you don't have to go full Mayflower. <A> Boxes: <S> So far the cheapest place I've found is ULine. <S> Figure out a set of boxes that are common multiples. <S> It is <S> so much easier to stack them. <S> E.g. <S> One standard box is 12x12x15. <S> We have a lot of books and correspondence. <S> These are close enough to banker's boxes. <S> So 18 x 12 x 15 is a good size. <S> as is 24 x 12 x 15. <S> The first 3 of it fits wehre 2 of #1 fits. <S> The second is just twice as big. <S> 6 x 24 x 30 makes a good size for pictures. <S> Pallets: If you get a bunch of pallets you can pack from your house into your garage. <S> Pallets aren't really necessary if your garage is dry, but it allows you to use a pallet jack to move the stacks around. <S> Seacan: <S> Consider buying a seacan. <S> I priced a move recently. <S> To move a seacan 1500 km was going to cost me $2500. <S> To move my household would have been $12,000. <S> Upside of this: Packing can be more drawn out. <S> You don't have to do it all today. <S> Downside: <S> You have to live without X longer, and you can't blame the moving company for breakage. <S> Write a clue on every box. <S> For me the best one is where it was. <S> E.g. <S> SB Desk: <S> L Drawers or Kit. <S> Under sink Set aside some things that can be used as filler -- things you don't really care when you unpack them <S> but you can slot into boxes that aren't full. <S> Extra bedding, pillows for large boxes, books, CDs for smaller boxes. <S> Be sure this ends up in ONE box. <A> Throwaway your original mixed size boxes ,I never saw a major appliance put into a box to move ( professionals have moved me 4 times- company moves.). <S> Moving boxes ( eg. <S> U-Haul) are standard sizes that work well together. <S> After the move break them down flat and save them if you think you will need them again. <S> I have not bothered to box everything like the pros ( eg, arm chairs, full wastebaskets, etc) <S> but as much as possible. <S> Lots of newspaper for dishware. <S> Wardrobe boxes for hanging clothes. <S> Do not fill any box with heavy stuff like books. <S> Clean out junk first , and things like open food containers.
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On your first question, it's real simple: hoard quality knockdown boxes, like Bankers Boxes or better. Do what the professionals do; Get moving boxes. Rent a bigger truck or trailer than you think you need, you will fill it. We keep one drawer in the laundry room that has the manual for everything.
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Two black wires into same terminal on light switch I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered. My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed? To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C? Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago). Is this a standard way to wire a house? Thanks all! <Q> A and B are already connected. <S> The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. <S> The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also. <S> I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail. <S> Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid. <S> B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C. <S> From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail. <S> To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape. <S> The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. <S> They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan. <S> Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! <S> Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches <S> (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). <S> If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions. <A> Wire B is internally connected in the switch to the terminal of wire A, which then caries hot to the new switch through connection C. <S> If this is correct, as you suggested, the simplest connection is attaching both Lutron black wires to wire B. Adding B to the C group would not be simpler, since you would then need to join the other end of the A wire to the new Lutron black lead. <S> Two wire nuts instead of one. <A> Cut the B wire off the gray switch and tie that to the black wire from the existing dimmer and the black wire off the new dimmer <S> and you're golden. <S> The A wire wrapped around the screw can get thrown out with the switch. <S> The other black wire on your gray switch switch will get thrown away with the switch. <S> As the first post says. <S> You wont be putting a dimmer on a fan motor or switched outlet. <S> As you already know. <S> You had a cheap and lazy electrician wire up that switch bank.
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It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch. It looks like wire B is your hot lead.
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Small Drywall Tiles for Ceiling Im finishing my basement and I don't trust little drywall screws to hold a big and heavy sheet of drywall on the ceiling. Even when professionally installed and it's said to be conpletey safe statistically. So that said, since I dont want a suspended ceiling tile system I was wondering if I could simply cut my drywalls into small and light tiles and put them up. It will require a lot more work to fill the gaps etc but can this work?Don't try to convince me a bigger sheet professionally installed is safe - this is just for my own sanity :) My thinking is: if one of those sheets come down it wont pull the rest of it down with it <Q> All you accomplish by hanging small pieces and then taping all those joints is to add more fasteners and more lumps in your ceiling. <S> The taped joints effectively make it all a single sheet, just as it would be if you hung larger sheets . <S> Do a little math and <S> you'll realize that each fastener <S> already only holds up a small bit of drywall, on average. <S> Adding joints actually makes it all less stable. <S> Deal with your irrational fear and do it the right way. <S> Add more fasteners if it lets you sleep at night, but I can't imagine that this is the only thing preventing that. <A> Those tapered edges on sheets make getting a decent surface a lot easier. <S> Since screws at the edge of drywall share a joist, they are closer to the edge. <S> Consider hiring pros to do it, and for your peace of mine, you work ahead of them putting a bead of adhesive on each joist. <S> FWIW <S> if you are in an attic, and step between rafters, you punch a foot sized hole. <S> The worst case I've heard of was a leak in an attic pipe that collected water on the vapour barrier, separated about a 4 foot chunk of drywall, then the sheet broke, and came down along with about 50 gallons of water. <S> I hate taping. <S> I especially hate taping ceilings. <S> Consider other types of ceiling: What about using the tiles of a suspended ceiling directly onto the joists? <S> Hold each one with two dots of construction adhesive per joist. <S> Whip up a zillion feet of ornamental batting for the edges. <S> You could also use OSB. <S> It's not as heavy, and holds a screw a lot better. <S> Fire code would likely require a fire retardant paint in a house. <S> I've seen people use OSB in shops, both walls and ceilings to reduce the number of dings in walls, and allow the use of hanging hooks nearly anywhere. <A> Your best bet is going to be to install sheetrock in full size sheets using lightweight drywall. <S> Once the install is normally done, you can install wooden furring strips on top of the drywall: <S> It's pretty standard to install the strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists and in your case, perpendicular to the long length of the drywall. <S> This way, failure of any one strip would have the smallest effect. <S> The strips could be painted a contrasting color to give an "exposed beam" look, or can be painted the same color as the drywall to get it to blend in. <A> Is this a serious question? <S> If you cut a 50lb 4x8 sheet into 32 1x1 squares it's still 50 lbs. <S> 6 of one half dozen of the other. <S> Are you worried that the ceiling is going to fall? <S> Just add more screws if you want. <S> Don't cut it to make it lighter. <S> If you have an unreasonable issue with drywall overhead (it seems you do, you clearly stated that in your question) try a lightweight ceiling finishing. <S> There are these staple up tiles that are so light that even if somehow they all fell on your newborn baby, the baby would be fine. <S> You could even use wall paneling, that stuff from the 70s, and put it on the ceiling. <S> Just paint it white.
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Normally wooden furring strips would be to provide nailers for ceiling tile or drywall, but in this case it will be using the strength of wood and long wood screws to provide extra holding power to lock the drywall in place. You are more likely to have a chunk fall, although it would be a smaller chunk. You will have a whole lot of pain doing this. I've not heard of anyone bringing down a sheet.
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Is this saw blade faulty? This may be the stupidest DIY question ever, but I want to make sure before I return it: is this non-ferrous metals saw blade faulty? In the picture, see where one of the titanium carbide teeth seems to be too large and to extend into the expansion slot. BTW, I had made 4 cuts of 9-15" or so, in 3/16 aluminum plate, before I noticed this; it cuts OK and seems like it could have been smoother, but I've never cut aluminum with a power saw before, so I don't really know what to expect. Here is the blade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFCMI34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... and the picture of mine: <Q> The filling is melted aluminum that galled/melted and filled the gullet and is covering one of the Tungsten Carbide teeth. <S> You can pull it off with a pliers. <S> The negative rake angle of the blade is fine for cutting aluminum, it will push your workpiece away instead of tending to grab onto it. <S> It will generate more heat and be more likely to melt the aluminum. <S> You can feed the work harder to generate a thicker chip to carry the heat instead of rubbing/melting it off. <S> A little spray of WD40 on your path can help immensely. <S> The J Shape is supposed to be there. <A> Yes the J shape is supposed to be there for expansion. <S> If you look at a Diablo blade it has the J relief cuts at the edges and also d-shaped relief cuts within the body of the blade. <S> The large tooth looks like it may be build up of aluminum on the carbide tooth. <S> It definitely doesn't look like carbide. <S> If it is Aluminum it should be easy to pull off with a pair of needle-nose pliers. <S> I'm pretty sure they actually make blades that are specific to aluminum to avoid the gumming up issue. <S> Here's an example of an aluminum blade www.diablotools.com <S> From the website <S> Diablo's next generation Aluminum saw blades are optimized for cutting thin (up to 1/8”), medium (3/32”-1/4”) and thick (3/16”-7/16”) aluminum metals. <S> Featuring the new, specially formulated Diablo TiCo™ Super-Density Micro-Grain Carbide, these radical blades withstand impact, reduce wear, provide clog free cuts and last longer than standard carbide in metal cutting applications. <S> The specially formulated metal cutting carbide teeth feature a Triple Chip Grind (TCG) Tooth Design for clean, burr-free finishes, virtually eliminating any type of rework. <S> Tri-Metal Shock Resistant Brazing allows these Aluminum blades to slice through metal materials while withstanding extreme impact for maximum durability. <S> Diablo's Aluminum saw blade series is ideal for corded and cordless saws when on-the-job cutting non-ferrous metals such as aluminum extrusions, copper pipe, brass plate, etc. <A> I agree that the blade seems fine. <S> Next time you are cutting, try using wax to lubricate the blade. <S> You can use regular candle wax, but there is special wax formulated for this purpose and formed to make it easy to apply. <S> I often stop mid cut and add more wax to the blade and kerf. <A> I don't understand why are you not using a cutting wheel to do this <S> is so much easier , whit this type of blade you are using <S> creates so much vibration .I will use a metal cutting wheel, much smother less waste, faster work. <S> Just a thought .
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Aluminum is really good at gumming up blades.
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What kind of four wire connector is this? Would someone be able to identify this four wire connector (red/black/green/white)? It's behind a blank panel on a wall adjacent to a light switch. I believe there's a second one in the wall cavity. My guess would be that it's some proprietary connector for a 3-way switch where you attach all the wires to the connect then just plug it into the switch. They could also be audio related - there are two speakers in the ceiling and when I bought the house the former owner said this is where the speaker wires were. There are also two wires on the outdoor wall between screws (that may have been for outdoor speaker mounts.) In the wall cavity there are some Ethernet cables and other unidentified wires. If they're electrical wires I assume it's not to code given that there's no box containing everything. <Q> That would match up to the two speakers you talked about. <S> I was looking around at home audio equipment <S> and I noticed that 4-conductor in-wall speaker wire follows the same color pattern of Red-black-green-white that your connector has. <S> Although I don't know exactly what this connector is for, home audio seems very, very likely. <A> I disconnected a couple of these wiring blocks to find "RIACON" written on the side. <S> A few google searches later <S> and I've determined this is a "spring clamp terminal block" from Metz Connect <S> (I think.) <S> All that wiring has turned out to be audio for, among other things, the speakers in the ceiling. <A> It appears this manufacturer has provided them for convenience, guessing it'll be used for North American mains power (black & white for hot & neutral, red for switched or "alt" hot, green for safety ground). <S> However it appears they are disregarding those color codes and using it for speakers. <S> That's fine. <S> If you pretend white is yellow, it also matches up to telephone color codes.
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Audio would make sense since the wires are white-black-white-black. Splice blocks don't require color codes. Any line-voltage wires for switches or dimmers would have to be in an electrical box, so that leaves us with low-voltage and media cables as options (or a very bad electrician!).
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How can I remove old tile mortar from a concrete floor? I'm about to tile my bathroom floor but the floor is concrete and it is not flat. It still has the thinset trowel markings on certain areas and they are not in the same direction. How do I even out the floor? <Q> Thinset mortar is usually fairly soft. <S> For that small area you can probably knock down the lumps with a belt sander and coarse grit belt. <S> You don't need to entirely remove the old mortar if it's well bonded. <S> Just get a fairly flat top. <S> Vacuum thoroughly before proceeding to remove all dust and debris. <S> Since you're presumably going to use a 1/4" notch trowel to set your tile, the mortar will accommodate the remaining roughness. <A> I had the same scenario with my floors in the house we just moved into. <S> I had a lot of the areas ground down with a floor grinder, but there were a few areas that needed attention like yours. <S> The man doing the grinding suggested I used his 4" scraper , he used it all the time for areas like yours and what I had, I though he was joking to a degree or had a lot more strength to pull something like that off, but I tried it anyway and was completely taken by surprise how easy it came up. <S> It is a small investment, and a dust free way to get a small area such as yours clean to the concrete surface. <A> I would use a masonry grinder cup with a dust collector. <S> Masonry Cup <S> Amazon <S> Dust collector Amazon <S> You will get a smooth clean surface very quickly.
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Be sure to use a decent shop vacuum and it'll be less dusty than scraping it or sanding it. It'll be a bit more difficult to apply the mortar than on fresh concrete, but no big deal.
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Hit wire on concrete wall while drilling a hole - problem? Hit a wire while drilling a hole on a concrete wall. Didn't feel like hitting anything, except there was a short, spark, and tripped the breaker. With the breaker back on, haven't noticed any problems. If the wires stay apart, can any issues arise from this? Other than the breaker tripping again, in case the wires touch, what else can happen? <Q> You can't just leave damaged wires in the wall. <S> This could happen years down the road, or the next time you plug something in. <S> I mentioned conduit, because in a concrete wall, the wires are going to be running in some. <S> This should make repair easier since the damaged wire can be pulled out and replaced. <S> You will want to make a larger hole in the wall to inspect your damage and fix any sharp edges that would damage new wire or prevent you from pulling new wire in the first place. <S> Also, circuit breakers will trip when the wire is shorted completely, but some arcing and burning can happen at a low enough current that the breaker won't trip immediately. <S> You can't rely on a breaker when dealing with physically damaged wires. <A> It would be wise to investigate further and make an intentional repair. <S> We can only speculate what sort of damage might have been done to the cable: partial removal of insulation from one conductor or from more than one conductor, nicking or other removal of metal from one or more conductors, etc. <S> A nick in a conductor could make it more susceptible to breaking with vibration and thermal changes over time, and a break could lead to arcing. <S> Removal of insulation leaves a possibly energized conductor open to contact with whatever might exist or get into the wall, including contact with other conductors in the same cable, again with unpredictable effects or timing. <S> A "short" doesn't necessarily cause a circuit breaker to trip immediately (or even at all), so when the damaged wire is left energized, there's a risk of unchecked arcing which can lead to fire. <S> Fire concealed inside a wall is a particularly bad thing. <A> That can not be left in service that way. <S> If it's cable, it's done for, and being set in concrete, the whole run is now unusable. <S> If it's conduit, all the wires need to be pulled out of that conduit for inspection. <S> You cannot mend a wire (not least, the conductor's width may be damaged and cause a hotspot), so the entire run of wire needs to be replaced. <S> One does not rely on breakers tripping to protect from a known defect. <S> One fixes the defect. <S> It's hard for me to keep a straight face when warning you about fire, because I can't name too many concrete fires. <S> However, if the PVC plastic conduit caught on fire, it would fill the space with some toxic stink, especially if the PVC pipe was not rated for electrical use. <S> (Lots of people grab cheap plumbing PVC because it's cheaper).
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The circuit might seem to work for now, but when a higher load is placed on it or anything moves the wires just a little bit, they can arc, short out against the conduit and melt/burn/damage other nearby wires.
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How do I fill a hole surrounding a boiler flue? The flue for my boiler has a large hole around it, presumably from when it was put in. I'd like to fill it in because it's unsightly, but in not sure of the best way to do it, as it's a large hole and near a boiler. Would expanding foam and a layer of plaster/filler work, or should I be using mortar? The house was built very early 1900 so there is little chance of it having a cavity wall. <Q> There are several spray foams in the marketplace designed specifically for this situation. <S> I have used Great Stuff <S> Fireblock and Pur Fill Fireblock in many commercial applications and have passed all Fire Marshal inspections. <S> They should work well in a residential application as well. <S> Both of these products are rated at a 240 degree flashpoint and can also be trimmed flush after drying. <S> Here's a neat video that shows how well these products work. <A> If a cover would suffice, the term for what to look for is a "stove pipe escutcheon" plate or flange. <S> If you want to block air flow as well, use something non-flammable like rock wool (the newer versions that don't have asbestos). <S> Do NOT use expanding foam... <A> It might not have to be fire resistant. <S> Depending on the type of venting and the approval of the boiler. <S> It looks like a coaxial venting system, meaning that it exhaust is sealed in the middle of the intake which is evident because of the visible screws. <S> If the pipe is a soft plastic <S> it's almost certainly zero clearance to combustibles <S> but it's still safest to check the installation manual. <S> If it is zero clearance you can fill the gap with whatever your heart desires, provided your heart doesn't desire something that dissolves pvc. <S> Here's an example of a coaxial venting system I have sitting in my garage for some reason <S> I'd stuff it with some batt insulation pink or green and cut some wire mesh to give morter a binding surface. <S> but it's hard as rock if you ever need to remove it. <S> Dryish mixed morter works well.
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I find non-shrink grout tools well and obviously doesn't really shrink or crack
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Are there timers to limit the hours a shower can be used? I have a autistic son who tends to sleep walk. I have found him a few times sound asleep in the bathtub with the shower running. I'm looking for some type of timer that limits the hours a shower can be used, like say between midnight and 5:30am. <Q> You could plumb a 12 volt DC electric solenoid water valve on the hot and another one on the cold water line to the shower. <S> Take a 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC transformer and wire it to them. <S> Then put the 12 volt transformer on a 120 volt timer and have it power the solenoids when he is allowed to use it. <A> It's doable but it would likely be a pretty big job. <S> If you fit the hot and cold supply lines with electric actuators - devices that open and shut <S> valves - and control those actuators with a timer you could turn the water on and off on a schedule set on the timer. <S> This is simple enough but not easy, and there are a number of caveats that come to mind. <S> The devices involved are not small, certainly not stuff you can stuff inside the wall - depending how your plumbing runs, you may have to do extensive work to reroute the supply for the shower through a location where you can install these devices. <S> You'd need robust actuators - you'd have to use something with a duty cycle that will tolerate daily use, not something designed for occasional use or shutoff when a leak is detected. <S> You would want to make sure your water heater's temperature is set low enough that there is no chance of scalding with the hot water all the way on, and no cold water. <S> (This is a good idea even independent of this project.) <S> It's possible that the system could malfunction and leave the hot supply open and the cold supply shut, and someone gets full blast hot water in the shower. <S> You could make the system more reliable with redundant actuators on the hot supply, etc., <S> but you can never make anything 100% reliable. <A> You can use solenoid valves. <S> They are a much less expensive option then a valve actuator. <S> Valve actuators are a good option but a little bit more expensive and potentially more complicated to install. <S> Solenoid valves are available in many different voltages, sizes, flow rates and suitable for many different applications. <S> This return from a quick search on Amazon [enter image description here][1] www.amazon.ca <A> If you are just trying to schedule when the water will run, go to an irrigation supply store, and get a simple 1 zone water valve kit. <S> (You can also do this from Home Depot stuff. <S> You need a valve, and a 1 station timer, and the handfull of adapters to go from (usually) 3/4" female ports on the valve to your household water system. <S> Done this way, it would only shut off one line. <S> Check with the specs on the zone controller as to whether it can control more than one valve on a single zone output. <S> Usually not a problem. <S> Edit: <S> Any system that can leave the hot water running, but not the cold is dangerous. <S> Valves can fail: stuck on or stuck off. <S> Interrupt the hot water only. <S> full cold water is unlikely to be harmful. <S> Valves run 15-30 bucks each. <S> a 1 station controller is between 50 and 100. <S> Since you don't need rain sensors, remote programming, etc, a cheaper controller should work. <S> Do this in a way that it is easier to undo it. <S> The next house owner probably won't need this feature. <A> You might want to consider some form of child safety lock instead; either on the bathroom door, or on the shower if it has a door as opposed to a curtain. <S> (Obviously more difficult if your kid needs to use the bathroom in the middle of the night, and you don't want him to wake you.) <S> I don't know your exact circumstances, but in general securing access to the room might be easier than securing access to water. <S> For example, the answers to Where can I find a Time Restricted Keypad Lock? <S> may prove useful.
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You may want to use a valve on both the hot water and cold water lines to the shower.
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How should I fasten strips of 15mm plywood to a sheet of the same? I've got a sheet of 15mm plywood which I need to build a door out of. Basically I want to cut the door in one sheet and use the leftover for reinforcing the edges by adding a layer on each side. Will this work? How should I affix the frame? Screws or glue, or both. <Q> I've built a plywood door for a shed before and ran into a few issues that I'll at least make you aware of even if it's not a direct answer to your questions. <S> I used a layer of T-11 <S> Siding <S> (plywood with grooves for the look of slats) over a 2x4 frame. <S> I screwed and glued the plywood siding to the lumber frame and then lined the inside of the door with some 1/4" plywood for a finished look and strength. <S> What I ended up with were some very heavy doors. <S> It seemed like a great idea in my head, but I ended up having to change the hinges I planned on for something more heavy duty. <S> Also, the finished thickness of the door didn't allow me to use standard door locks. <S> I ended up having to use a "shed" style T-handle latch and a regular lock and hasp to secure the door. <S> So, recommendations: <S> Use one layer of plywood with a layer of reinforcements on the edges and maybe some diagonals for stiffening. <S> Pay attention to the finished thickness of the door to make sure it's what you want. <S> Two layers of your plywood (one sheet, one reinforcement) is going to make a very thin door, and if it's full sized, I doubt you can stop it from twisting over time. <S> Plywood over a frame of different lumber seems like the best option. <S> Here is a 4’x4’ door I made recently for a playhouse (bottom with the large X). <S> It’s a layer of 15mm plywood with an exposed 2x4 lumber frame. <S> It’s been holding up great so far. <A> jPhi1618's answer is good. <S> I'd use urethane glue if you don't want to use screws. <S> It's equivalent to what the plywood manufacturer uses to combine the plies in the sheet and should hold up to moisture and movement. <S> If you're ok with screws, countersink and pilot the strips for 1-1/4 gold construction screws (or something fancier). <S> Use caution <S> so you don't run them too deep or strip the wood in the underlying sheet. <A> On doors: Hardware for non-standard thickness doors is available, but will eat up any money you saved making the door. <S> Door knobs expect a door between 1.5 and 2 inches thick. <S> So if you want to make it out of 15 mm plywood, you would need a layer 3 layers thick on both the hinge edge and the doorknob edge to use standard hardware. <S> This would be a non-trivial weight door if you went with 45mm throughout. <S> Plywood is not very gracious about screws into the end grain. <S> If you are hanging this door conventionally, I think you are going to have problems with the hinge screws pulling out. <S> The answer to this may be to use barn door hinges, which surface mount with either heavy screws or bolts. <S> In this case I would choose screw hardware (see below) that matched the style of the hinges. <S> I would suggest black iron with square washers, and black square head screws. <S> There are ways to make doors out of conventional dimension lumber,the plank and Z brace being most common. <S> Do it this way, with a double layer of planks over either thin plywood, or oriented strand board. <S> A layer of sheet material eliminates drafts through the door. <S> On screws: Make a feature out of an necessity. <S> Recently I did a stair railing out of 1x material. <S> The bannisters needed to be heavier, so I glued 2 layers of 1x together, and screwed them with brass coloured screws with brass grommets. <S> Stained with umpteen coats of empire red stain diluted 4:1 with water soluble varnish. <S> The gold screws against deep red glaze is stunning.
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Strong adhesive should be good enough, but you have to clamp it together, so you might as well use glues and screws.
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Heat transfer to adjacent solder joints If I want to remove a soldered joint in a shower valve by heating it and pulling it, would that heat cause damage to the other soldered joints about 2-3" away on the valve? <Q> Not really, the key is to be directed in the application of heat to the required joint, Almost certainly you will melt the solder on the adjacent joint, however the solder should re-set quick enough. <S> Bigger concern is to make sure you don't apply too much pressure to the fixture and dislodge the loose joint (at heat) -- <S> Remember, <S> the solder should not be contaminated and should re-set well enough.. <S> the nice thing is that its pretty easy to test (i.e when you turn the tap back on) <S> - If you are concerned, or there is a leak, you can simply add more heat and apply some solder with new flux. <A> It's possible, the trick in this case is to apply lots of heat quickly and remove the appropriate fitting before the heat has a chance to conduct to the other fitting. <S> The solder will tell you when it's ready by glossing over. <S> I'm trying to think of this from a DIYer point of view. <S> I could imagine a small torch heating up the fitting for a long time allowing the secondary fitting to sweat loose. <S> Avoid taking your time with it. <A> Method A: Proceed as if intending to remove both soldered joints at the same time. <S> Heat them both evenly. <S> For reassembly, prepare both and re-solder them at the same time together. <S> If there is a valve cartridge assembly (such as a shower control) involved with either, remove that so heat doesn't damage it. <S> Method B: <S> Two inches away with copper pipe will be challenging no matter <S> what—copper is an excellent thermal conductor. <S> I'd clamp on several vice grips and tightly wrap soggy wet rags around the pipe and adjacent joint. <S> That certainly would keep it getting near solder melting point. <S> But it also will interfere with getting the target joint hot enough to do good work. <A> Could, but you could also keep the joint(s) cool with a cold wet towel.
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Try to reduce the heat transferred to the adjacent joint.
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Cut part of the baseboard without removing it I need to cut part of my baseboard so I can push the wardrobe all the way against the wall. Ideally, I'd like to cut it installed, and pull only the part that needs to be removed. I have patience, I know it is required as I'll have to cut slowly to prevent damaging the sides (that won't be removed). What manual/hand tool would you suggest to cut the baseboard? Once both sides are cut, I will use a puller to remove it from the wall, leaving the sides installed. Thank you for any help! <Q> They have various blades and sanding attachments, but the straight cutting blade in the picture above will probably be the best thing for cutting out a piece of molding like you are considering. <S> You can control the depth of cut (by hand, manually) and they can cut right next to the floor to get a complete cut. <S> I've used it to cut molding next to a door when installing slightly wider door casing. <S> I've also used it to cut the length off of door jambs when installing thicker tile (like a flush-cut saw). <A> The other answer is good for cutting the baseboard in place. <S> However, in most cases this should never be done. <S> Unless you simply don't care about how your baseboards look this is a bad decision. <S> An oscillating tool cuts using vibration and pressure. <S> It is not going to cut a thin straight line even if you are very very skilled at using it and have a new blade and so forth. <S> If you are doing this on both sides of the wardrobe I cannot fathom that this would be quicker than pulling baseboard out and making two cuts with a table/circular saw and reinstalling. <S> In a lot of cases baseboards will have a few finishing nails and if you carefully pull it out you can realign the baseboard with the same nails/holes. <S> If it is just glued then reglue. <S> What I am saying is the oscillating tool is your option but no one who wants to do quality work would choose that nor would they believe it saves them time. <S> When taking out baseboard you can basically pull them while only damaging the area that they cover. <S> Get a joint compound knife - 6-10" - and slide it behind baseboard until you get a gap good enough to put a decent lever (bar, big screwdriver, whatever), push baseboard a little further from wall, and once it can be wiggled a little use your hands to pull it out starting from the gap and working your way out with small tugs. <S> I would also recommend putting your wardrobe in place before doing your reinstall so that you can be sure your baseboard cuts are correct. <A> The knife can cut through the wood just a little with each pass. <S> The chisel could be used on the waste side of the cut to remove wood chips so that the next pass with the knife can cut a little deeper. <S> Best would probably be to use a well-sharpened chisel and skip the knife entirely -- in this case it would be similar to cutting a mortise with a chisel. <S> (Search YouTube for a demonstration of that.)
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If I had to cut a notch or section out of a baseboard, and I had to do it with hand tools, then I'd use a utility knife and/or a chisel. Something great for this is an "oscillating multi tool" .
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Is it wrong to install both a whole house humidifier and a whole house de-humidifier? I live nearish Pittsburgh. Our summers can get pretty hot and humid and our winters can get pretty cold. We have been planning to get a whole house humidifier because the house gets really dry in the winter. Recently, I watched a video about a whole house dehumidifier and it sounded like something we could use. We find ourselves running the AC too much in the summer just to handled the humidity. I started reading about how to make this work with our thermostat ( ecobee 4 ). It supports either a humidifier OR a dehumidifier, not both. This lead me to the question of what I was doing overkill or unnecessary? Am I off base for wanting both? Or do I need to find a special thermostat? <Q> The problem is that your air conditioner is probably over sized or the fan speed is set too high. <S> An air conditioners primary function is to remove moisture from the air. <S> To big of an air conditioner and it drops the temperature too fast and can't pull down the relative humidity. <S> If the fan speed is too high then the interior coil doesn't get cool enough to cause water to condense and drip into the drain. <S> There are a few ways to make the air conditioner do its primary job of humidity removal work better. <S> The simplest is lowering the fan speed. <S> This link explains some tactics with a little detail. <S> Air conditioning is tricky and it requires many measurements with specialized tools. <S> It's not really a DIYer job <S> but, with enough acquired knowledge anyone can understand it. <S> Lots of installers and service techs don't actually know what they are doing. <S> They often set the fan to the highest available speed, install the largest equipment possible, charge the system with the beer can cold method and generally accept that if it's blowing cold air it's perfect. <S> That is not the case. <S> Get a good, reputable service tech over and explain the issue. <S> You don't need a dehumidifier, you need to set up the one you have. <S> A good tech will have your house cool and dry in no time. <S> I'm from Toronto <S> , we get a dry -40°F to a very sticky 110 <S> °F. <S> If we can get by without dehumidifiers here, you can in Pennsylvania. <A> Pgreen2--Let <S> me give you the novice approach to your problem. <S> I live in Butler, Pa. and here is what I do, and it works. <S> @Joe Fala is pretty much spot on but here is what you can do as a home owner. <S> To check the fan speed, go out and buy a thermometer, similar to a meat thermometer, that reads temps between about 30 to 180 degrees. <S> I have 1 that reads 0 to 220. <S> Carefully put a small hole in the horizontal duct above the furnace and A/C coil to measure the discharge air temp. <S> and a hole in the return air drop duct to read the return air temp. <S> With the A/C on for 15 minutes or more check the temperature difference. <S> You want a 15-20 degree temp drop across the A/C coil. <S> Staying closer to the 20 degree drop is preferred. <S> If this is what you get then great. <S> If this is not what you have then changes are in order. <S> Also, I have a humidifier on the furnace for winter use and I run A big de-humidifier in the basement in the summer to help control the humidity. <S> (my basement if finished and conditioned) <S> My total sq footage is 4000 including the 1st floor (ranch) and the basement, 20 year old house. <S> My A/C is 3 ton which works well but may be a tad too big. <S> I am not supposed to recommend a specific brand de-humidifier <S> but I bought it at the orange or blue store <S> and it is rated at 70 pints per day. <S> This works for me. <S> Make sure that you have your whole system looked at by a reputible service company. <S> Get references and do not opt for the cheapest company. <S> A word of caution; LP and nat gas does not effect the humidity in the home unless you are using an open flame heater like those unvented kind. <S> A dehunidifier will not replace an A/C system as some people propose. <A> I fill it when I use some but if not used it will last for a few days.
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I lived in Ohio for a few years and I found in the winter we did need need to have a humidifier in the winter because of the extreme cold dry conditions but the humid summers we had a dehumidifier in the basement to keep the moisture down, we did not install a humidifier but used an old school trick of keeping a kettle of water on top of the wood stove something I still do today in the winter on my pellet stove, it actually saves $ because if you want a cup of tea or cocoa the water is already hot.
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Should I install hardwood flooring or cabinets first? I am installing 3/4 hardwood oak nailed down to plywood sub-flooring. If hardwood flooring is installed first, wouldn't buckling of the floor be a issue since hardwood expands and contracts? <Q> There are several factors to consider. <S> Buckling would be the least concern if the hardwood floors are installed properly . <S> I have been involved in the construction of hundreds of new homes and we have always laid the hardwood floors first. <S> Appliances <S> - The height of the cabinets needs to be 36 inches from the floor. <S> The appliances will need to be the same height. <S> Do you really want to be forced with having a lip in front of all the appliances? <S> You would basically be sealing them in. <S> Imagine having to pull out a refrigerator when it's boxed in with hardwood. <S> Labor <S> - In relation to the appliances, you would need to place some plywood, etc. <S> underneath the cabinets and appliances to raise them up. <S> What would be the point? <S> Both options probably cost about the same. <S> Leaks - Imagine an unnoticed sink leak. <S> If water runs under that flooring you will definitely have some buckling issues to deal with. <S> A sink leak on a hardwood floor would be bad anyway, but you would be creating an easier way for the water to enter underneath the hardwood. <S> Insects <S> - Roaches love cracks and crevices. <S> You would be creating a welcoming environment for all manner of insects given the warmth and moisture from your appliances. <S> Remodeling - Hardwood flooring will outlast the cabinets. <S> You might also want to change cabinets someday for a different style. <S> You will be faced with having to go back with the exact size cabinets. <A> Definitely flooring first! <S> Your ends do not have to be perfect that go under the cabinets, so if you have boards with bad ends or flaws, they can be placed so that flaw is hidden by the cabinet. <S> I'm 6' something and every 1/4" of higher cabinets counts, <S> so I'd do it just for the fact the cabinets are not 3/4" shorter/sunk in. <S> Some appliances allow you to remove the feet to shrink them down to your lower cabinets but it would be an absolute nightmare and would easily damage the floor when moving them without feet. <S> It's more intended for a retrofit job - this is NOT the case! <S> Floor under the cabinets! <S> If you're worried about damaging the floor, buy a roll of construction paper and tape it down to the new hardwood. <S> Then put an old drop cloth over it if you have one. <A> In the case of an existing kitchen installation where the existing flooring (vinyl, for example) was replaced with hardwood, the new flooring goes up to and around the cabinetry. <S> It's done, but not ideal because of what happens around or under the appliances. <S> It also lowers the effective height of the countertop by the flooring thickness. <S> Since this is a full reno, far better to lay the floor first and then install the cabinets. <S> I had my kitchen replaced, kept the original tile floor. <S> What I found when the old cabinets were removed was that the tiles didn't cover the entire floor - they only went far enough under the cabinets (a few inches) to provide for a finished look at all the edges, and I think also to provide a level surface for the cabinets to rest on. <S> The flooring covers every inch of floor area visible when all appliances are removed, is the supporting surface the cabinets rest on, but doesn't have to run where it has no job to do (as either support or finish).
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I would lay the floors first and then install the cabinets.
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How Can Wind Chimes Be Mounted On The Second Story? I have some Japanese cast iron chimes (Small, they fit in the palm of your hand and are about 0.5kg) Can these be mounted against the vinyl siding outside my room on the second story of my house? How would I do this? (I've done roofing work before, so I know all the usual safety warnings about ladders, heights, etc) <Q> Open window of your room. <S> Remove screen. <S> Lean out (carefully) and screw eyebolt to bottom of window frame. <S> Something like this . <S> Bottom of window frame because A: <S> easier and B: chime will not hit window in strong wind. <S> Attach chime to eyebolt with carabiner, or chain, or something else appropriate for a site exposed to weather. <S> If the chime annoys you or your new roommate or you want to swap it out for better chime, or you need to clean it out, it will be easy to get to without ladder or going on roof. <A> Fasten it to the side frame of your window. <S> This puts the chime far enough from the wall it doesn't hit the house, but is close enough to the window to be very hearable. <S> In passing: Chime sounds vary hugely on placement. <S> We have a large stainless steel one that was on the patio. <S> It took a fairly strong wind for it to sound. <S> I moved it about 5 feet horizontally and 4 feet up, using a higher tree branch. <S> It sounds about 3 times as much now. <S> You can adjust to some extend by changing the length of the string, and by adding area to the the wind catcher to make it sound more, adding mass to make it sound less. <S> You can also adjust the tone by your choice of striker. <S> A metal striker induces more high frequency sounds. <S> Wooden or hard rubber strikers tend to induce the lower primary tone, with fewer harmonics. <A> You could go with some Window Suction Cup Hangers . <S> You could install these from inside the home if your windows tilt (like most do) for cleaning. <S> Your wind chimes are small and would hang easily on these and they would not hit the glass pane if the wind was blowing harder than usual. <S> No need for climbing or marring up your vinyl siding with this option.
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Another option is to use a plant hanger
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What are the best practice in drilling anchor screw holes in right locations? I am setting up several stations side by side that look like this: For each station I have to install a mirror that has two hooks behind it and look like this: Those hooks are supposed to hang on anchor screws heads that have to be installed in the wall. The problem I am facing is that I have to locate the right locations on the wall where to drill the holes for drywall anchor screws, so that: I drill the holes correctly the first time because (I) I can't drill holes close to each other to fix small alignment issues without patching up the previous hole; AND (II) I can't drill holes few inches to left or right because then I would create a gap between stations that are already correctly installed. The mirror needs to be high enough from the floor so that it would almost "sit on the table" and be next to shelves on the left. the hooks in the mirror would hang on drywall anchor screw heads. So far I tried locate location for drywall anchors by using measuring tape. However, the holes were off by a 1 cm and this does not seem feasible to install multiple stations. Another solution I thought about is to get a huge clear plexiglass sheet, hold it against mirror to mark where are the hook holes. Drill them on plexiglass. Then put the Plexiglas against the wall and mark the holes on the wall. Note, the station and/or mirror do not have perfect 90 degree angle on the lower left corner. So I may have to create such template per mirror which could turn out wasteful for a such one time work. I am wondering if there is a more elegant solutions than to use Plexiglas approach? Like, would one one of the laser leveling/measuring devices help here (if so what features to look for in such device)? Adjustable aftermarket anchor screws or hooks that I could use? Anything else? <Q> Level, laser or bubble. <S> Mark your line horizontally on all the walls, then place the mirror on the wall where you would like it hung, then mark the edges of the mirror on both sides on the horizontal mark. <S> Once that is done, measure in from your mark on each side, place your X, drill your hole and install your anchors. <S> Other options would include cable hangers, saw-tooth... <A> You need to create a template: Try this: On the back of one mirror exactly 1 inch above the hook point put in a screw. <S> Let it stick out 1/2" Repeat for all the hook points. <S> now rub the head of each screw with lip stick. <S> Use a sheet of plywood or strand board, and cut it to the same size as the mirror. <S> Put the mirror face down on the floor. <S> Clamp a 1" wide board to the bottom edge of the mirror. <S> With a friend line up the plywood with the mirror, but with the bottom edge against the 1" board. <S> The 1" off set lifts the template by the same 1" you offset the screws in the mirror. <S> Press firmly against the screws, transfering the lipstick to the plywood. <S> Drill holes the size of your anchor pilot holes in the plywood on the lipstick marks. <S> Remove the clamp board, and verify that the holes line up with the points on the back of the mirror. <S> Using a laser level, set a temporary ledger board that will support the template still while you drill your pilot holes. <S> Drill one set of holes, set your anchors and set your first mirror. <S> Set your ledger boards for the entire wall. <S> Repeat. <S> Remove ledger boards. <S> Patch the holes the ledger boards screws made. <A> Simple redneck method: Hold the frame level in the desired location. <S> Apply firm but gentle pressure over the hooks. <S> This should produce a light dimple in the dry wall. <S> Using a finish nail on Phillips head screwdriver driver, make a center punch so the drill bit doesn't wander. <S> Using a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor, drill your hole. <S> Gently tap the anchor into position.
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If the mirrors are all the same, and the mounting location is the same, you could use a template based on the location from the ceiling down.
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Add T fitting to pipe I was going to remove my toilet angular shut off valve to add a 1/2 inch PVC T fitting. When removing it I noticed that it is a what I believe a compression fitting. What would you recommend I do to be able to attach a 1/2 fitting; one for a PVC pipe and the other for the toilet shut off valve. The pipe extends about an inch from the wall and the nut freely spins and cannot remove it. <Q> You need to get a compression to pipe thread adapter, then you can use whatever threaded fittings you want. <S> For 1/2" copper, the outside diameter is 5/8". <S> You would need a 5/8" compression x 1/2" male or female pipe: <A> There are many ways to do this, one is to solder a new adapter or t to the tailpiece you left. <S> Another is a product like shark-bite. <A> The metal ferrule makes the seal on the pipe. <S> Once compressed they are difficult to remove. <S> The main reason these leak is from over tighting. <S> Since your pipe is locked in concrete a shark bite or sweated fitting may be the easiest path forward.
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I have used a dremel to cut the nut off in the past then sweated new fittings and valves in tight or places like this without much of a stub out.
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What is the easiest way to get rid of a very large patio door? We have an 8'x14' patio door at a house we are doing. Dumpster is gone. We are going to reframe for windows. The door is has a metal frame and it is in 3 panels - made in 60s. Breaking it outside would be hard to clean up. Just seeing what unique/cheap ways people would come up with to get rid of door which is a TON of glass. Edit: Tempered glass? I don't know. It does not have any markings that I can see and not sure if everything was marked in the 60s. However the patio door was in a very high traffic patio that had a pool close and basketball hoop. I would guess it is but purely a guess. <Q> You could get one of those large low cost plastic material tarps. <S> Fold it out double thickness on the ground outside. <S> Then lay the glass panels down flat on the tarp to break them up. <S> You can successively break larger pieces down to smaller pieces that you can dispose of in the trash bin. <S> After you have gathered up all the larger pieces for disposal you can use the tarp to bundle all the small shards and slivers of glass for disposal. <A> People called interested in using them as glass panels on sheds, or green houses where insulation value was of no interest, and they didn't want to invest in something new. <S> Gone in a few days. <A> One option is to remove the metal frames from the glass doors so the plate glass free of anything. <S> The idea would then be to use standard glass cutting techniques to break it down into easier to handle and dispose of sizes. <S> you would place the glass carefully on a flat surface (i.e. plywood on some saw horses) you can use a straight edge and a glass cutters scoring tool to make a score across the piece. <S> Then the glass panel can be slid over so that the glass overhangs the plywood with the score mark right at the edge of the plywood. <S> A quick rap on the glass at the overhang should allow it to break right along the score line. <S> You would repeat this process to get to reasonably sized pieces. <S> There could be some issues with this process because old glass can sometimes not respond to scoring and breaking along the line nearly as well as new glass.
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I got rid of my old sliding glass doors by putting them on Craigslist for free.
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How can I get bulk riser cable back into the box? I recently ran a cat-6 cable from inside my house to the office, and I bought a bulk box of 500 feet. I pulled lots more out of the box than I ended up needing, and so now I have about 100 feet of cable outside the box. Is there an electrician’s secret trick to getting the cable back into the box? <Q> Don't Just coil it up and tape it to the side of the box. <S> Then put the box away, or sell it, depending if you have any future need for cable. <S> The coiling interior to the box to make them work is more complex than it appears on casual inspection, and getting the box tangled so it won't "just pull out" is far worse than having some coiled cable on the outside. <S> How do I know? <S> 300 feet of miserably tangled cable in a box that I had to fight with until I used it up, got a new box, and NEVER tried that foolishness again. <S> Network wiring is part of what I do for a living. <A> Depending on the particular box, there are two problems: Pushing cable in from the outside will end up with a tangled mess. <S> With some boxes, the output hole isn't just a hole but a plastic piece that "bites" the cable in one direction to prevent it from slipping back into the box. <S> The solution is to: Open the box on one side. <S> That will allow you access so that you can pull the cable in and loop it the same way as the rest of the cable to prevent tangles and allow you to pull it out normally in the future. <S> If there is a plastic piece that "bites", carefully remove it from the box. <S> Depending on how it is designed, you may be able to put it back afterwards. <S> (That's what cables like to do in the back of the truck when you're not looking.) <S> Very often it just isn't worth the hassle - if it is < 50 feet then why bother opening up the box, removing the plastic piece, etc. <S> And if it is > 50 feet then do you really want to sit there coiling it up <S> "just so" instead of an easy coil outside the box. <S> But if you do that, use a cable tie instead of tape. <S> You should have cable ties around anyway for securing cables neatly in various places, and that way when you are ready to use the extra cable, just snip the tie open <S> and you're all set - as opposed to dealing with removing the tape and dealing with sticky adhesive on the cable. <A> Coil it up around hand to elbo, flatten the coil and stick it in the hole. <S> Don't try to re-coil it in the box. <S> , it's like trying to respool yarn. <A> I can only suggest opening one side of the box and turning the roll of cable inside - this will not be easy unless the tube the cable is on rotates as well... <S> Once all is back inside, stick the side back. <A> I was taught to coil the extra cable around the box and put the end into the hole. <S> Never had a problem with knots.
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But if you can't put it back, leave a couple of feet of cable out of the box and tie them in a simple knot to prevent the end of the cable from slipping into the box. Then when you are ready to use it, just pull it out.
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Drain under the kitchen sink check Today I inspected the drain and trap under the kitchen sink. I haven't really had any specific problem but I guess the drain could be faster. Sometimes I start the disposer to make it drain quicker. I have spotted some sort of grease leaking out of the trap and I will clean that up but my question is - is this an optimal drain plumbing? Something seems off in this installation but maybe it's just my lack of experience. On the right side, difficult to see in these particular pictures, there is a copper pipe section that goes down to the sewer and also up to a vent on the roof. Please, forget the section of drywall I removed. I just wanted to see the hot and cold water pipes as I'm also trying to fix a water hammer issue, but that is another story. <Q> This is what you need to do. <S> What you have is essentially a very long and deep trap seal. <S> For a trap to function properly you need a seal (height of stored water) to be between 2 and 4". <S> So from the bottom of the exit pipe to the bottom of the trap should be between 2 and 4". <S> The reservoir of water should only be contained in the trap. <S> You want the drain to slope the entire way, 1/4" per foot is the only acceptable slope. <S> This allows the waste water to wash the pipe. <S> It swishies back and forth at 1/4" slope. <S> More slope and the waste shoots down the center building up debris on the wall of the pipe. <S> Less slope and it doesn't flow. <S> Most people don't know this for some reason but on a torpedo level half the bubble is 1/2" slope per foot, 1/4 bubble is 1/4" per foot. <S> Some levels have multiple indicators to aid in the measurement. <S> In this case 1/8th and 1/4" respectively. <S> www.swansontoolco.com <A> As mentioned in the comment by ratchet freak , the drain pipe doesn't lead in a downward direction the whole way. <S> Each horizontal piece should be staggered so that it ends up lower than the last piece. <S> The horizontal piece that goes into the trap on the left is lower than the piece coming out of the trap on the right. <S> It should be the other way around. <S> What that means is that any part of the pipe that is under the level of the drain in the wall will always be "under water". <S> Standing water gives sediment and grease a chance to collect and turn into a sludge in the pipe that restricts the flow of water. <S> It's easy to check - just take apart some of the joints so you can see inside the horizontal sections. <S> If they have a lot of collected junk, then that's a problem. <S> If they are clean, then you're lucky and the restriction could be somewhere else. <S> Having one trap is correct. <S> Since your disposal is on the lower side of the sink it makes running a proper downward slope a little more complicated, but it is still possible. <S> Again, checking the buildup in the pipes will tell you more about the problem. <A> As others have pointed out the horizontal section of pipe leading to the trap has to be higher than the piece exiting. <S> This is a code violation and can cause clogs to occur. <S> The piece of pipe leaving the garburator might also a code violation as it appears not to have the minimum 1/4" per foot of slope, it is also hard to tell if that is a sanitary tee though I assume it is given the threaded connections. <S> Slope in wdv should be not too much to cause water to flow too quickly leaving solids behind to dry and clog a pipe and not too little to cause solids to sit and not be moved with the liquid. <S> The problem here seems to be that the sanitary tee that is connecting up with the stack is too high (possibly this was originally plumbed without the garburator). <S> If I had to fix this, I'll plumb the sink to the trap (fixing the orientation first). <S> Then put in a sanitary tee in the horizontal section and hook in the garburator outflow. <S> I think putting in a sanitary tee into the correct height of the stack is likely too much work.
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This is the ideal configuration but if you look at the trap outflow you can see it is lower than the bottom of the garburator:
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Can I use my receptacle multi-tap on both ends of an extension cord? I have a Voltec three way adapter, it converts a 5-15 plug into a (3) 5-15 receptacles. Is it safe to use this adapter at either end of the extension cord? So three way adapter to extension cords then tools or extension cord to three way adapter then tools. <Q> It really depends what you're powering Three cell phone chargers, you're gonna be fine. <S> But a table saw and a dust collector, ain't gonna happen. <S> The power-factor-corrected loads (i.e. Their VA not their watts) need to be added up. <S> They need to be within the capacity of the circuit (15A=1800VA intermittent, or 12A=1440VA continuous). <S> You should be fine if so. <S> Otherwise expect burnt and damaged splitters, and/or a breaker trip, depending on luck. <A> Presuming it is UL listed, it should safely work at its maximum rating. <S> You hope the breaker trips, but you should double check the rating on the breaker as well on that electrical run. <A> The problem I have seen with these is multiple loads overheating the outlet and causing a melt down of the plug itself. <S> The voltec is better than many but especially with cheap 98c outlets I have seen several failures on 15 amp protected circuits. <S> I would want to use a quality heavy duty receptacle and still be cautious on the total load. <S> The connections are where I have seen both outlets and extension cords fail.
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The biggest concern is that you can now have three high draw devices pulling power at once; you need to make sure this is never the case as you can over load the circuit. They can be used at either end but make sure if at the end of an extension cord the cord is at least 14awg.
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Wiring a light switch that only has one cable when the new switch (with neon indicator) has live and neutral both in and out I am replacing a light switch with one including a neon indicator. There is only one cable to the switch but the new switch has live and neutral terminals for both 'in' and 'out'. Which terminals do I use? <Q> you can use this kind of connection (called switch-finder) with neon light connected in parallel to the switch: neon is on when fixture is off, neon is off when fixture is on. <A> You use Live In (supply) and Live Out (load). <S> The neon will not work, unless you also have a neutral present at the switch. <A> In this installation, power comes into the lamp, rather than the switch. <S> There's nothing wrong with that, but the wiring in this house is older and does not conform to NEC 2011. <S> As such, there is no neutral (return) wire in the switch box. <S> Without a neutral wire, it is not easy to power anything in the switch box that needs power. <S> Normal switches do not. <S> What your switch actually has is For the switch: line (always-hot) and load (switched-hot). <S> For the indicator: supply (switched-hot) and neutral. <S> On some switches, two of those terminals are wired to be common, but can be separated. <S> If you want the pilot on when the switch is off, there's a chance of doing this without rewiring. <S> Check your switch and lamp to see if it supports this, but the pilot can be wired to be in series with the lamp. <S> , so it lights when the switch is off.
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You'll need to call an electrician to change the cable between lamp and switch.
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2018 IBC code requirement for tempered glass windows (safety glass) I'm trying to figure out if I can bypass requirement for tempered glass. I have 3 windows 40x69 ea, installed in a row separated by 1 1/2 inch material (2x8), all of this is installed in a rough opening in the front of the house. (most people have a bay/bow window there, in that rough opening, but the house I bought has these 3 windows) The interior seat (sill) is only 15 inches from the floor. 2018 International Building Code (2406.4.3) specifies that tempered (safety) glass is needed if all these conditions exist: The exposed area of an individual pane is greater than 9 square feet (0.84 m2). The bottom edge of the glazing is less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the floor. The top edge of the glazing is greater than 36 inches (914 mm) above the floor. One or more walking surface(s) are within 36 inches (914 mm), measured horizontally and in a straight line, of the plane of the glazing. Now I want to replace these 3 windows with possibly 5 windows to bypass rule (1) - 9sq ft area rule.By splitting that huge opening into 5 (instead of the current 3), the window glass pane area of each window could possibly be below 9 sq. ft. Is this acceptable? <Q> No, it is not acceptable to use non-tempered glass, because the “seat” area is within 18” of the floor. <S> The Code doesn’t say the window sill must be directly above the walking surface or if it could be recessed (like a window seat), etc. <S> Plus, you don’t want to put family and friends in jeopardy by having them next to such a hazardous situation. <S> (What If a child walked along the seat?) <S> Btw, this code requirement requires the homeowner to change immediately. <S> It is not “grandfathered” in as compliant. <A> Some areas may allow you to apply a safety window film . <S> I have only seen it on heritage houses where the original windows are essential to the character of the house <S> but I hear it's common in commercial applications. <S> It's worth looking into. <S> As long as it is up to your local codes. <A> I would suggest instead use sealed units made for patio doors. <S> Since you are buying a standard size unit, you get the prices of mass production instead of a custom made sealed unit. <S> If your climate permits non-sealed units, you can often get glass units that been replaced. <S> These units are often free or very cheap. <S> With work you can split the two panes sliding a putty knife, or trim pry-bar in the seal. <S> (I ahve a stack of 70 39.5" <S> x 66 <S> " x 5/32" that I got for $50. <S> Idea was for a green house) <A> ALL FOUR REQUIREMENTS HAVE TO BE MET <S> OR YOU DO NOT TEMPER. <S> If the window is a double hung then the 9 sq ft rule only applies to the bottom sash. <S> Even if the bottom sash is larger than 9 sq ft then ONLY the bottom sash needs to be tempered. <S> If you replace the old window then you have to adhere to the new requirements.
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Your windows do NOT have to be changed to meet new codes for tempering. You also have the option of installing an oriel single hung so that the bottom sash is smaller than the top sash and falls under the 9 sq ft rule. (There are 2 items in the Code that require the homeowner to up grade immediately: 1) tempered glass, and 2) smoke detectors.) That 69 x 40 is very close to the size patio door used in condos, where you have a step over sill between the room and the balcony.
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How can I waterproof this weak spot in my roof tile where pipe goes through it? This copper pipe goes in between 2 roof tiles (cement/hard tiles). Water constantly leaks through when it rains. The water clings to the pipe and then drips onto the ceiling. As you can see from the images, multiple people have tried to plug this leak, including me. I used a product called Sikaflex 11FC sealant. In this image, you'll notice that I've scraped away the sealant close to the pipe. When I did this, I noticed that it was all gummy, which makes me think that it never hardened properly. The gap that you see is the gap between the 2 tiles. It's bigger than other gaps on the roof because of the pipe. I've also tried to plug this gap all the way and the sealant was much harder further away from the pipe, which makes me conclude that the weak point is close to the pipe itself. Is this just a very bad installation that can't be saved, or is there something I can do to waterproof it properly? <Q> I would take a piece of flexible rubber sheeting approximately 12"X12", cut a hole in the rubber about the size of the tubing (make it a tight fit), near the center, and slit the rubber from the edge to the cut hole. <S> Fit the rubber sheet around the tubing and use silicone caulking to seal the underside of the rubber, the slit area and between the tubing and rubber sheet. <S> Use a lot of a good silicone caulk (not the cheap stuff or spray foam), 2-3 Tubes of caulking should suffice. <A> That's not a very big area. <S> I would use some Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement for this type of issue. <S> This is designed primarily to prevent water from entering through basement or retaining walls. <S> However, I have used it to stop leaks as well <S> and it works great. <S> It's easy to mix and sets up in about 5 minutes. <S> Fill the cracks and then spread a generous amount around the pipe. <S> There are many types on the market. <A> <A> How did you apply the Sikaflex? <S> We use that a lot for water storage tanks and it hasn't given us any issues. <S> Applying it in layers might allow it to cure and solve your problem. <S> But like what was said above, covering it and sealing around the new cover is probably your best bet.
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Lastly, coat the whole top of the rubber sheet with a thick film of caulking and spread with a cheap paint brush to coat the whole rubber sheet out past the edges. Most roofers will make a copper (or lead) tile with a tube soldered to it that sticks up and the other tiles go around and above that to hide it.
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How should I support this large drywall patch? after the installation of a new water heater and a relatively extensive plumbing fix, I wanted to save a buck trying to patch the drywall myself. It's the very first time I buy a piece of drywall or anything related to this activity. I re-created a map of the pipes on the new drywall using trilateration, then cut the drywall to match the existing, large hole, and cut it in a way that I could fit it. The existing hole with plumbing: The patch with holes for plumbing (this will be cut in a half going through the holes): Poor picture (sorry) of the cut patch: Dry fit of the "bottom" part of the patch: Dry fit of the whole patch: My question is: how much support should I install behind the drywall before I screw it to the metal studs, and start the operation with mud and all of that. I am really clueless, any advice will be appreciated. <Q> It's a matter of preference, but I would float scrap lumber backing at four locations: <S> Down both sides <S> Across the bottom between the two studs Across the between the two studs just below the plumbing penetrations Anywhere else that seems too flexy when you do a little press-testing 1/2" or thicker plywood and 1-by or 2-by <S> lumber work well. <S> Construction adhesive would reduce the number of screws necessary there. <S> Protip: If you don't have access to a dedicated screw gun (which is not the same as a drill, despite common usage of the term), these drywall screw setter bits are golden because they keep the screw from sinking too far into the drywall: <A> I don't ever attach drywall unless it has attached backing on each side. <S> To float the backing and have it come out solid and flush and not cause drilling issues is both a thing that needs to be practiced and it needs the appropriate access. <S> Here is the deal if you float this and bump into the area it could crack <S> - I hate working on something prone to failure especially in an area that has usage. <S> A proper access box of maybe 20" tall by 8" out would allow you to service these turnoffs properly if there were issues without opening the whole wall up again. <S> Also if you have to turn these off you are probably putting pressure and a good chance of damaging wall area behind it. <S> I honestly have only seen this a handful of times in houses. <S> My answer: <S> Remove drywall until you can go to studs - almost no extra work and much faster and long-term than floating. <S> If you can't do this then add an extra stud - it does not need to go higher than hole. <S> You can add two support blocks. <S> Drywall access box and hole. <S> Be glad you did it right. <A> It appears to be supported by two studs. <S> Unless you want to make a bigger patch (& hole) that goes halfway on to the next studs on either side, just screw it into the two studs and start mudding and taping. <S> Edit to add: Leave about 1/8" (3 mm) gap, knife mud into it, embed tape into mud on the surface <S> (paper tape actually makes a stronger joint, unless you are using "setting" mud rather than the usual drywall compound that dries) and mud over that until you are happy with the appearance, using progressively wider knives and knocking off any high points when dry, before applying the next coat. <A> One option is to glue and screw plywood to the back of one piece of the plaster board, creating a ledge for the other piece to be glued and screwed to. <S> Predrill into the ply to reduce the forced needed to get the screws started and use very sharp screws. <S> Do likewise around the hole where possible. <S> If you got enough depth wood can be used instead of ply. <A> If you're joining drywall, I've found a good rule of thumb is if it's not within 3" or so of a stud, you need something to attach to the drywall behind the drywall. <S> That's what Isherwood is referencing in his answer. <S> The idea is that, if something hits a section of drywall, you want something to reinforce it, or you'll be back patching a jagged hole. <S> Scrap lumber is great... <S> if you have scrap lumber laying around. <S> If you're not doing stuff like this on a frequent basis, you might not have any. <S> Be sure to cut the narrow end off the shims if you go that route. <S> You will need drywall screws for this as well. <S> The catch with screws is to not "over-drill" them. <S> You want them to sink just below the surface of the drywall, but not drive straight through the drywall itself. <S> Worse for you is you'll be doing this on a live setup. <S> Just take it slow and you'll do fine. <S> As for location, I would do 2 in the top right (where the cuts jog further out), and one vertically to the left of the pipes along your cutout. <S> Additional tip: draw lines on the wall where your studs and supports are. <S> It will help you a great deal in hitting the supports. <A> Your patch looks too big for this, but drywall clips do exist <S> and I’ve had good success with them. <S> Here is one brand: Walboard Tool 54-014 6 Count Drywall Repair Clips <S> These clip onto the perimeter, <S> and then you screw them in. <S> If you have a stud in the way, it can be a problem slipping them on.
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This backing doesn't really need to be attached to the studs in all cases (doing so can make it difficult to keep everything flush), but should be fastened well to the surrounding drywall. This will result in all edges being surported. For something like this I would go to next stud for sure. Also I would build a little access box jutted out from the wall maybe 8" or so. Build an access box (2x2s) and attach across framing. If you don't, a good and cheap solution is to buy a pack of wood shims (typically found in the door and window section of your hardware store). Hopefully you have a driver that drives slower the less you squeeze.
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If I blow insulation everywhere in my attic except the door trap, will heat escape through it? I want to blow insulation into my attic. The door into my attic is on the floor and made up of a large board which doesn't have hinges. I have to push the door up and slide it over in order to gain access to the attic. That means when I blow in insulation, I can't blow any in on the door or in the area that I will slide the door over to. Will this gap in insulation cause major hot or cold air loss? Are there alternatives to this? <Q> You don't put blow in above the door. <S> Use batts or cut several layers poly board insulation to mimic slightly less than your attic cover. <S> 4-5 layers will give you good coverage. <S> This will not provide a perfect barrier but is the recommended way of handling attic openings.bb <A> Before you add insulation, consider air sealing your attic, meaning use a closed cell foam to seal penetrations in ceiling such as top plates, holes for electrical, lighting and plumbing. <S> This will prevent air communication between the attic and the conditioned space something that just adding blown in insulation cannot do. <S> If you are experiencing comfort issues in your home, are looking for energy saving or health benefits reach out to home performance professionals and have a blower door test preformed to determine the amount of air leakage your home has and get the best solution. <S> If you're interested in this take a look at Corbett Lunsford and his youtube channel Home Performance. <S> Here is a link for some air sealing tips. <S> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/56102/The-3-Rules-of-Air-Sealing <S> And here is one for why it's important http://energysmartohio.com/how_it_works/air-sealing/ <A> Yes, the energy loss from an uninsulated attic door is substantial. <S> You can and should attach batts or rigid foam directly to the top of the door. <S> This article explains the energy impact of having an uninsulated attic door with an otherwise insulated attic: <S> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/34932/Attic-Stairs-A-Mind-Blowing-Hole-in-Your-Building-Envelope <S> In example given in the article, "the amount of heat that flows through the 10 sf of attic stairs is the same as what flows through 380 sf of the insulated attic".
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But to answer your question build a wall around your attic access to prevent the blown in insulation from falling through, put a seal on the attic access frame (kinda like a door seal) and adhere bats of insulation to the door itself.
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How to add tiny 0.5A 120V load to very remote split phase 240v 3 wire well house Given that I don't have neutral, sounds like, even for just running a simple irrigation controller, that I don't want to use the ground wire for my neutral and simply pull 120v off the split phase 240V since a potential short would energize the ground wire. It seems like running a small transformer is the way to go. However often recommendations I have found mention adding a sub panel breaker after the transformer, which seems like overkill for my need. Would adding a 5A fuse to new transformed 120V be fine instead of a whole breaker box? I'm surprised how much transformers are, and most of them are for transforming single phase Euro 220v to US 110v, anyone have a good source? As an aside, if this existing ground to the 240V did connect directly to ground at the main panel instead of neutral (haven't looked yet, in the neighbor's panel) then to me it would be ok to just pull L1 and ground off the 240V and skip the transformer right? These are very large wires running a 20A load to a well pump, might 1000' away, so I think this is the only load on that breaker. <Q> At 0.15A <S> x 120V, this thing is about 18 VA (similar to watts). <S> That is significantly less than 40 VA. <S> They make them with both 240V and 120V primaries . <S> Get one of each. <S> You connect the two 24V secondaries to each other . <S> The 120V primary feeds your controller. <S> This is double-isolated from 240V, so it won't be terribly dangerous. <S> If you really want to, you can call it a separately derived service and add a neutral-ground equipotential bond to whichever leg of the 120V <S> you want to call "neutral", but given that it is going straight into another transformer that will also isolate it, that seems like much ado about nothing. <S> I recommend to snip the plug off the cord and hardwire this thing, to avoid the temptation of someone plugging a circular saw into the outlet. <S> Wow, that was easy and cheap. <A> For the specific irrigation controller you linked, there's almost certainly a way to configure it to accept 240V directly. <S> From the international manual on their website: <S> Rated input: Australia—240V <S> AC 50/60Hz <S> 0.15A <S> Europe—230V <S> AC 50/60Hz 0.15A <S> USA—120V AC 60Hz <S> 0.15A <S> I'd recommend contacting them to see if you can plug the one you have into 240V directly, or if there's some internal wires or jumpers that need to be reconfigured first. <A> Something similar to this comes up all the time in industrial applications. <S> For example there may be a three phase 480V supply to a motor, but you need lower voltage for the controls. <S> The usual solution is a control transformer. <S> These are modestly priced, especially for tiny loads. <S> For example one brand, Hammond, makes control transformers as small as 50VA for under $50. <S> (USD) <S> Take a look at this document from Hammond for wiring diagrams for various primary / secondary configurations: https://www.hammondpowersolutions.com/files/HPS_Instruction_Sheet_Control_Transformer_WiringDiagram_PHWD1.pdf <S> With these products, there are fuse holders built in, and you can also buy enclosures ready made for the device for a finished install with minimal fuss, and there are enclosed versions that are built in an enclosure - lots of options.
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The 240V primary goes to the 240V main via a 1 amp fuse. As it happens, 40VA thermostat transformers are cheap and common as dirt, typically around $13.
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Can a breaker be added to the main disconnect panel? I know nothing about electrical code or wiring. I want to add a breaker to my main disconnect panel. Reason being it is super close to my garage compared to my panel inside my home. The main disconnect panel is a full size panel with a main switch at the top then spots for breakers below. Its located at the front corner of the home and I would simply need to run the service 10 feet. I believe it's a 200a service, installed by the previous owner in 2012 and passed inspection at that time. I would like to feed from this panel to my garage and possibly add a sub panel for some additional outlets and a 220v outlet for welding. Is it ok to do this or should I plan to budget to run from the main panel inside the home? <Q> I'll first put my disclaimer out there and say I'm not an electrician. <S> First, pictures are worth a thousand safety tips. <S> Can you add some pictures of the existing panel(s)? <S> Adding a run has it's challenges. <S> The cable size, type, conduit type are all determined by length of run, amps, and location; might be 1 or 2 others I missed. <S> As far as adding a sub panel, there are some very strict code and guidelines that must be followed. <S> Namely, the previously mentioned. <S> If this is something you're thinking of doing on your own, be sure you know what you're doing. <S> I had been in the trades for nearly 20 years, and I've played around with electricity plenty. <S> When it came time to adding my sub panel for my shed, I decided there's too much to account for and know to do it myself. <S> I believe you would be able to do what you're looking to do with relative ease. <S> You can tell your service by the breaker size of your main panel. <S> If the main throw is rated at 200A, it's safe to say you have a 200A service. <S> As I recall, if your run is interior, you would need to run metal conduit and need no less than a 4 gauge stranded run. <S> If it's exterior, you would need to run schedule 40 or 80 non-metallic conduit. <S> Either way, the cabling needs to be stranded. <S> I would suggest calling a local electrician to verify gauge for service size and run. <A> You could run a subpanel from that main panel, but it sounds like it's probably even easier to just feed the new circuits in your garage directly from that panel. <A> Consider calling the power company to pull the meter when you hookup to the main panel. <S> Or an electrician to discuss if code allows it. <S> On the main, you can flip that switch and normally that will kill power to the lower section of your panel to safely install a breaker. <S> The heavy wire coming into the panel will still be very hot, and plenty powerful enough to severely harm/kill you compared to just a 20 Amp circuit. <S> However, use common sense and assume everything is hot. <S> Carefully pull the front cover off after flipping the main, and examine the rail. <S> You should have a place for breakers to snap in if it's designed to be done. <S> Also make sure you have a easy to knock out hole in the bottom (or side) of the panel. <S> You'll need to use the fancy fitting that takes a locknut and a rolled edge bushing/nut that doesn't chafe the wire. <S> You'll need to run the wire in schedule 80 conduit to the proper size if it's exposed to someone being able to touch the conduit. <S> Underground is only schedule 40 I believe, but again, not an electrician so that will need confirmed. <S> What you are doing is both very easy and very dangerous but using your head right will save you a lot of money and be a fun project! <S> I wish I installed a meter socket panel with the breaker slots available right outside the home <S> so I could run some outside circuits easily. <S> Lucky you!
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It's also good to note, there are specific height requirement, panel types, and grounding requirements that must be considered. Not an electrician, but after reviewing your photos I would say go for it.
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Toilet constantly making a noise https://youtu.be/sI0OCBpdwXk For the last little while my toilet has been constantly been making a noise as you can hear in the video. I looked it up and it seems like there are two common causes of noise. It seems like the float and fill valve are working as intended. And I thought the flapper was okay since I applied pressure on top of it and it didn't affect the noise at all. But I tried closing the intake valve for my toilet tank and the tank has been slowly draining. What is likely causing the leak? The water in the bowl seems still, not like there is a steady source of leaking into it? Any advice would be appreciated! Edit: Thanks for the help everyone. The food colouring test helped show me that the water was leaking into the bowl. I wrongly assumed that since I applied pressure to the flapper to make sure it sealed that it was not the problem. But the flapper was the problem. Upon taking it out and inspecting it the whole thing was disintegrating and there were cracks allowing water through it. <Q> Turn off water to closet. <S> Empty bowl. <S> Thoroughly inspect flapper for nicks; its attachment to the hubs that hold it; and it’s ove,tall condition; then wipe clean the flapper and the housing on which it rests. <S> Is it damaged? <S> Is it snug? <S> Is it positioned to drain into the vertical tube? <S> Turn water back on - fill water closet. <S> Flush. <S> Fixed? <A> Even though you mentioned pressure on the flapper not helping, you might still want to shut off water valve and remove the flapper and inspect. <S> I've noticed the last few times I've had a similar problem that the flappers I've been getting from local big box has a rubber gasket that is two rings sandwiched together during manufacture. <S> Now the weird thing is that water will start somehow getting sucked/injected/transpiring in to little pockets between the two rings forming little water filled "blisters". <S> It usually takes many months, maybe a couple of years. <S> Once this happens I cannot squeeze the water back out without first putting a small slice or puncture in the blister. <S> After that they'll work fine, for a while. <A> Sounds like water going down the fill tube to me. <S> The sound to me is water in a hollow chamber though, making me think it's that fill tube. <A> That is the sound of water trickling down the overflow tube. <S> From the looks of it, the tank level is all the way to the top of the tube, it may be going over the top, or it may be the "refill tube", the little flexible pipe that goes into the overflow tube. <S> That pipe sends water down to the rim after the big flush to refill the bowl while the tank refills. <S> In either case, these are the SYMPTOMS of the fact that your fill valve is not completely closing. <S> It's likely just worn out and needs to be replaced. <S> It's not difficult, you can see plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do it if you want to do it yourself.
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Check the water fill tube which fits into the upper end of the vertical pipe. Could be a crack in the fill tube near the base of it, or like others said the 'flapper' may have a nick/crack/bump in it preventing perfect seal.
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Drilling in concrete and hitting something hard - what are my options? I drilling somewhat deep holes (inch and a half) into concrete and I'm hitting something hard in two out of my four holes. I'm fairly sure it's not metal I'm hitting and I'm wondering how to proceed. It's a new building (finished half a year ago - in October 2018) and it is in Sweden, so I'm sure modern building standards have been followed. I'm using a proper rotary hammer and a proper concrete drill for the job and as far as I can tell the tip is not getting dull or anything. Could it be a rock or something? Or is modern concrete fairly uniform? Any suggestions on how to proceed and get past this obstruction? <Q> You may be hitting rebar, the reinforcing steel embedded in concrete. <S> You can buy a rebar cutter the same size as your concrete drill bit to get through the rebar then switch back to your concrete bit once through. <S> However a great deal of caution is in order. <S> It's pretty hard to determine whether you're hitting a very hard bit of aggregate or steel / metal, and if it is metal, it's hard determine whether it's safe to drill that metal. <S> It's also possible you're hitting a water pipe, waste pipe, or an electrical conduit. <A> You are probably hitting a stone - part of the aggregate used to make concrete... <S> If you are lucky your drill bit may cut through it... <S> If you are not then the bit may "drift" off and make a larger or angled hole giving you other problems... A good quality masonry bit is a must... <S> When I have had this in the past <S> re-locating the object by 1 or 2 centimeters has solved it... <A> You're probably hitting a steel cable used for post tensioned concrete. <S> You need to find out if you have that kind of floor system before doing anything more. <S> If you cut that cable you're looking at a crazy amount damage when that steel cable breaks and shoots out of the side of the building. <S> The correct procedure in a post tensioned concrete floor is to have it x-rayed located to verify your holes are in places where there are no steel cables.
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In some cases, for example concrete beams, cutting the steel in the concrete can weaken the beam. Basically you shouldn't drill through it, and so you need to find another place to put your hole.
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Is "14 AWG" NM-B allowed by the newest NEC for new residential construction? Is "14 AWG" NM-B allowed by the newest NEC for new residential construction? My concern is what the NEC says concerning 14 AWG NM-B for new residential construction. I have been told that the "NEC 2014 & 2017" codes do not allow it for new residential construction. Am just trying to find out for sure. <Q> There is nothing in the NEC (2014 or 2017) that forbids the use of 15A circuits wired with 14AWG NM-B for general lighting and receptacles (irrespective of occupancy). <S> Some localities do amend the Code to require the use of 20A branch circuits (with 12AWG wire, of course) for general lighting and receptacles in some or all occupancies, though, and there are also electricians who do not install 15A branch circuits, preferring to stick to 20A as a point of practice, but neither of these reflect on what the NEC actually says. <A> There are two separate questions there. <S> Is <S> NM-B <S> cable allowed in your work? <S> Maybe, maybe not. <S> NEC article 334 describes where NM cable can be used. <S> This Stack's bailiwick is home residential, and it's usually allowed there, but watch out for local amendments; e.g. It is not permitted in Chicago. <S> Is 14 AWG wire allowed in your work? <S> NEC 240.4(D) indicates where 14 AWG wire is allowed, i.e. On 15A circuits only . <S> Again, watch out for local amendments; some places outlaw 15A circuits entirely and want 12AWG to be the smallest wire you use. <A> Depends on what code in your area has to say, and what purpose you want to use it for, and what load and circuit breaker it will be for. <S> For example: To connect a sub-panel, stove or dryer? <S> Absolutely not allowed. <S> In the general case, in North America, the answer is yes. <S> In fact, by far, the vast majority of wiring in North American homes is 14AWG NMB (also often known by the trade name "Romex"). <S> It's generally used for all the 15A lighting and receptacle circuits throughout the house. <S> In most cases, all of the rest of the rest of the house also uses NMB (just larger than 14AWG).
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There is nothing in the NEC that forbids 15A circuits with 14AWG wire in new work
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Water is pouring out of our Aprilaire humidifier We had an Aprilaire humidifier (600 model) installed in a new house 2.9 years ago. About a year ago, the humidifier began leaking water all over the basement floor. This has happened 3 times with 3 visits from a heating a cooling company tech to fix the problem. We just had the biggest flood yesterday - water was literally pouring out of the I think the front of the humidifier. I need to know what to ask the h/c technician who will come again to fix the problem. Doesn't it seem that there is broken part that should be replaced to stop this from happening? I know nothing about humidifiers and neither does my husband and we're about ready to toss it out. Any tips would be appreciated. <Q> Here is a diagram of that model from Aprilaire . <S> The drain tube (#9 in the diagram) might be clogged. <S> Look on page 11 section 9 for further instructions about the drain tube. <S> Check the pipe that the drain tube is connected to. <S> It could be clogged as well. <A> Humidifier is a simple device, you need a new heating guy. <S> 3 visits <S> and he can't solve it. <S> Not good. <S> A handy friend should be able to identify the problem in a matter of minutes. <S> Clogged drain, misaligned pad, cracked or dislodged 1/4 " water supply. <S> Even if the solenoid was stuck open it should not leak. <A> The problem I have seen is a small chunk of scale or sand blocking the valve from closing. <S> I started installing mesh screens prior to these valves similar to what is used in washing machines. <S> The screens do need to be cleaned when they plug up with scale and debris, but this is better than a flood. <S> Depending on your supply line, a small inline filter may be a good choice, but this has been the cause for several leaks that I have found. <S> With both the mostly plastic valves and the more expensive brass and stainless models, I have disassembled the valves and been able to clean them. <S> When the valve gets ~8-10 years old the diaphragm needs to be replaced. <S> On the brass ones there are rebuild kits for ~$15. <S> The plastic ones I just replace. <A> I had the same problem with lots of water leaking from the bottom almost as soon as the unit turns on. <S> If that is your problem too (leaking within a second or two after being turned on) then maybe the water is coming out of the inlet too fast -not at its normal slow trickle- <S> in which case the jet of water is splashing out of the tray and onto the fan housing. <S> That is what I observed with mine. <S> One easy way to tell if too much water is coming in- <S> Then briefly close the humidifier housing <S> so the humidifier turns on for 3-4 seconds (its fan should spin and water should flow). <S> Then open the humidifier and look at the panel. <S> If you see water cascading along the outside face of the water panel and mainly down the center 1/3 of the panel, then somehow too much water is coming out of your inlet. <S> Alternatively, a sure fire way to see is to disconnect the electrical connector on the housing - just pinch the plastic sides of the connector to remove it from the housing. <S> There should be enough slack in the wire to allow you to make the connection without closing the housing. <S> Obviously be careful because the fan will spin and make sure you keep the correct orientation of the connector when connecting. <S> Once you make the connection the fan will spin and the water will flow and you'll be able to instantly tell whether or not too much water is coming in from the inlet. <S> For me the water was jetting in so fast it was ricocheting off the upper tray and onto the fan housing. <S> As a temporary fix I dialed down the saddle valve <S> so it wasn't open all the way. <S> But is too much water from the inlet (~3 times as much as normal) <S> the fault of the solenoid? <S> I just replaced the solenoid a few months ago from having the opposite problem of no water flow.
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Also, check the main water outlet where the tube connects to the bottom of the pan to make sure drainage isn't restricted. First crack open the humidifier housing so that it turns off while the HVAC fan is on.
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Is fine stranded wire ok for main supply line? I’m changing the load panel in a mobile home with additions to gain additional circuits. Outside a few feet from home is the service pole with meter and a 100 amp disconnect. I became concerned about the entrance wire because it is a fine stranded wire like automotive battery cables or like welding equipment wiring. The picture shows the work in progress and it is complete now but I wonder if this type wire is anything to be concerned about especially since I will be adding to the load draw with a central heat pump. In the red square you can sort of see the fine strands that the entrance wire has. I can’t get better pictures until I return to this vacation home. To clarify I was expecting the wire to be stranded like this But what I have is very similar to this Edit: Returned and pulled old wire out. It was in a heavy rubber jacket that had writing on it indicating it was mobile home wire like one uses for a camper at at campground.It stated it was for 50 amps. . Replaced with #1 copper wire on hots and neutral and #3 copper on ground. <Q> I can call it right now. <S> I don't see any markings on the wires. <S> Now, perhaps the wires come out of a multiconductor cable, whose cable sheath has markings that indicate it is one of the NEC/UL rated types of wire legal for mains wiring. <S> But if not... <S> Wires without insulation markings are no wires at all . <S> You don't even know what you're looking at here. <S> You don't know what insulation temp column you should be pulling out of for 310.15(B)(16). <S> You don't know if it's 600V insulation. <S> We don't know if the insulation will hold up over time, in the environmental conditions, or with the heat of the wires working normally. <S> For all we know it could be Chinese car battery cable. <S> Given that it's all 4 colors, there's a fair chance <S> it's cable in sheath, or was shucked from cable in sheath (there go the markings). <S> This is why you can't shuck NM to get wires for running in conduit. <A> (anything finer than what UL calls Class C stranding) unless the equipment is specifically listed for use with specific fine strandings, which is not true for light duty loadcenters. <S> As a result, what we have right now is a 110.3 violation of the loadcenter's listing and labeling, atop anything else that's going on with the wire itself. <S> Given that the wire appears to be in conduit, simply replacing the run with the correct stuff is the best option, as that will cure any issues with labeling/marking as well, and also gives you the chance to adjust conductor sizing as-needed. <A> Yes there is fine stranded wire, it is not common because it is more expensive. <S> I use it on equipment that has a high vibration or regular movement because the fine wire holds up better in those conditions than heavier strands. <S> thick strands tend to break with movement. <S> Since this is a mobile that might be why this type wire was used <S> but it goes back to the size of the wire if it will do the job or not, <S> fine or heavy strands don't matter it's the gauge or size that is the limiting factor. <A> I won't comment on the legalities since I'm not from the US <S> and I'm not deeply familiar with their codes, but from a safety point of view my big concern would be the insulation. <S> It's difficult to be 100% sure from a photo <S> but those conductors look like rubber to me. <S> Rubber insulation was phased out from fixed-wiring wires/cables a long time ago, but it's still used to this day on some types of flexible cord. <S> The problem with rubber is it can oxidise over time leading it to harden, then when the cables are manipulated to modify the installation it can crack.
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A terminal problem Beyond the potential labeling/marking (or lack thereof) issues with this wire, there is a serious problem with this setup: equipment terminal lugs are not suited for fine stranded wire
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Small nick on power cord from an electric alarm clock, and copper wiring exposed but intact I bought a vintage alarm clock and radio. It works perfectly, but it took me a day to discover that along the length of the cord, there is a small nick, which revealed a small bit of copper wire, which doesn't seem frayed at all. The cord is unpolarized, and plugs into 120V AC without any transformer "box". Before the nick was discovered, the clock ran perfectly for a day and a half before unplugging. I bought a spool of 3M Super 88 electrical tape and thinking of wrapping it up. Would that be enough, or would it be still unsafe? <Q> That cable, as is, will tend to "bite people". <S> It also has damage that could increase resistance there causing that spot in the cable to get hot. <S> Continued flexing will worsen the wire damage and the heating. <S> An electrical-tape repair will work temporarily, but I would not resell it like that. <S> The right way is take your time and find a gray power cord of very similar style, open up the clock and replace the cable. <A> It depends. <S> The proper procedure would of course be to replace the cord, but from a safety perspective, insulating tape will work. <S> It may be against regulation, and if you have kids or pets around it may be unadvisable. <S> The main problem is that tape tends to sag and move over time. <S> A better solution than electrical tape would be either zipper tube , which is heat shrink tube that is closed with a zipper, or vulcanizing tape . <S> You can even split the conductors, insulate them with a heat shrink tube each to their own, and then an overall shrink tube to keep it together. <S> If you need waterproof (you probably don't), the tubes with thermoglue will provide that. <S> Same goes for self-vulcanizing tape. <S> It will provide a perfect seal that doesn't sag or slip. <S> You could insulate each conductor individually to ensure that there will be no short circuit. <S> Either of these are likely to cost as much as, or more, than replacing the cord. <S> Either would be entirely fine from a safety perspective. <A> Insulating tape will make it safe in the short term. <S> In the long term (or if accessible to pets or children) it can come off or be pulled off. <S> It is often hard to replace the power cord. <S> Sometimes the case of the appliance is impossible to open. <S> Other times the cable restraint/grommet is moulded onto the appliance end, and no other piece of cable could be secured. <S> I'd cut the plug off the other end (if moulded on), slide heat-shrink tubing along to cover the nick, and shrink it into place. <S> Then attach a re-wireable plug. <S> Not necessarily unsafe, but not nice. <S> A third possibility is an in-line cable joiner. <S> Cut the cable at the nick, and join the conductors inside the in-line joiner. <S> Some designs of joiner you could simply put the damaged cable inside the body of the joiner and secure it on both sides of the nick without actually cutting the cable at all. <S> Heat-shrink tube is by far the neatest. <S> Just what I'd regard as making it safe, bearing in mind <S> it's a clock, not, say, a hedge-trimmer that gets carried around and used outside in a wet environment. <A> Never take chances with electricity. <S> Remove the damaged device from those who might use it. <S> Find the correct gauge cord and replace the entire damaged cord. <A> What you have there is free access (50% of the time) to the live / hot conductor for a passing finger or other part of your anatomy. <S> If you have an earth leakage device (RCD, might have a different name in the USA which 120V points to being your country) in your mains supply, you'll cause it to trip if you touch it and are grounded... turning off the power to that circuit. <S> It'll hurt. <S> If you don't have an earth leakage device the hurt could be fatal. <S> Proper insulating tape will work as a makeshift repair but you shouldn't rely on tape for a long-term repair to exposed wiring - the adhesive may perish, the over-wrap may slide up or down the cable, children might unwrap it to see what was underneath. <S> Replacing the cable is a good option but will involve opening the machine and may need soldering. <S> Shortening the cable is a good option. <S> Cutting the cable at the damage and using a cable joiner is a safe but less good option... <S> it depends where the fault is along the length of the cable. <A> Zip cord is typically made of a vinyl (poly-vinyl chloride) material and you may be able to find a solvent, like for PVC "plastic" plumbing, that would dissolve the insulation enough to reform it to seal the tear, if there isn't a chunk missing. <S> If there is material missing, perhaps a vinyl repair product would also work. <S> Since you made a point of mentioning it was vintage <S> , I think these suggestions will give you the most attractive resolution. <S> I've seen chewed cords and <S> this one looks like it had been caught under a piece of furniture or closed in a drawer. <S> The stretching doesn't suggest teeth marks. <S> Leaving the cord alone shouldn't affect the operation of your device. <S> Electrical tape would prevent contact with the wiring, but it's not an attractive option. <S> Using a vinyl adhesive or patching product would restore the integrity of the insulation without compromising aesthetics. <S> If the wiring is actually damaged, though, replacement or shortening the cord to removed the damaged area is best. <A> put some tape around it and move on. <S> The original insulation is just a coating. <S> Tape is just a coating. <S> Because it is tape <S> it isn't any good? <S> Yes, if someone is "trying" to pull it off. <S> Someone could try to pull of the original insulation also. <S> Wrap it well with tape. <S> Then wrap it again with tape. <S> Put it on the table and enjoy it.
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If you're sure the wiring inside the cord isn't damaged, you can probably make a simple repair to the insulation. Zipper heat shrink tube without glue will provide a lasting insulation. Rather, it's a safety issue. Someone made a comment about the tape being able to be pulled off. None of this is advising whether these measures are legal under any particular wiring code. Self-amalgamating tape is another possibility, but in my experience it goes gooey with age.
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How do I secure a TV wall mount? I have a built in area that is 21.5" deep (see attached picture). I'd like to mount a TV, but I've tried finding studs in the back wall and I think there might be one around the center, does not appear to be studs anywhere else as far as I can tell (and the wall seems pretty thin to the outside so I'm not even sure the "stud" I found is an actual stud). I drilled some tiny holes and the center is the only area that gave any resistance. My plan is to add new wood to the area outside of the wall that I will paint white and attach a TV mount to that, does anyone know what size wood I should get for that (2X4 etc)? And also how would I secure it to ensure it can support a TV mount (aka put screws into the top/bottom or some specialized way to do secure it)? Also if anyone has a better plan to mount a TV that'd be great haha, my plan is to get a TV mount that extends very far so the TV can be wider than the built-in area. Thanks! Edit: Added picture, whoops!Edit: Thanks for all of the suggestions!! I'm an idiot and I'm going to start super easy and try a mount that uses a single stud, like this bad boy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVXEW7Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4RWQRCTJ6CYV&psc=1 This place was built in the 70's so I'm not sure what codes they followed - the stud finder "found" studs on the back wall, but I drilled a tiny hole into them and 2 of the 3 had no resistance (on the far left and right), feeling decent that the center is a stud. The wall seems very thin though so I'm definitely concerned that I'll go through to the outside haha, we'll see in time. If that does happen I like the idea of mounting plywood and using that as the studs, I think plywood glued/screwed in could do the trick, the TV is only 22lbs so crazy light. <Q> Now that I see your photo I'd do this differently. <S> I'd install a vertical cleat just behind the faceframe on each side of the cabinet, maybe 1" back (the thickness of the plate plus 1/4"). <S> I'd then span a sheet of 3/4" plywood across them, creating a solid face on which to install your mount. <S> You should have either a cabinet wall or framing to screw into. <S> Make the plywood as tall as possible without being visible to give it rigidity. <S> You could also use two-by lumber if you prefer. <S> Plan view: | | | | | |_ _| | <S> | | | <-- cleats -------------------- <S> > <S> | | | <S> | |_|__________________________________|_| <S> | <-- cabinet wall <S> | |______________________________________| | <S> |_| <S> ^ -- <S> plywood plate |_| <S> ________________________________________________ / TV \|__________________________________________________| <S> One advantage to this approach is that you can use a simple, inexpensive mount rather than an elaborate articulating arm mount. <S> Be sure to work out the depth of everything <S> so you're able to tilt as you like when you're done. <S> Original answer: Rather than installing something that may be visible around the television, just add a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the one stud, and also adhere it to the drywall with project adhesive or silicone. <S> Cut a sheet that's about 6" smaller than the tv in both directions. <S> Apply a 1/4" bead of adhesive to the entire back side in a zigzag pattern. <S> Using four 2-1/2" gold screws, fasten the sheet to the stud <S> Once the adhesive is set this will hold any modern tv with no problem. <S> Be sure to properly pilot your mount screws so they grab the plywood well. <S> If you're using an articulating mount, consider installing a pair of toggle bolts at the ends of the plywood as insurance in preventing the sheet from pulling away. <S> Elevation view: ------------------------------------------------------. <S> .. <S> __________________________________________ <S> .. <S> | <S> * | . <-- TV outline. <S> | <S> ( ( ( ( | .. <S> | ) ) <S> * ) ) <S> | <- . <S> --- plywood. <S> | <S> ( ( ( ( | .. <S> | ) ) <S> * ) ) <S> <-| <S> -- . --- adhesive. <S> | <S> ( ( ( ( | .. <S> | ) ) <S> * ) ) <S> | .. <S> |__________________________________________| .. <S> .. <S> ^--- screws .------------------------------------------------------ <A> No need to go through a lot of unnecessary structural changes. <S> I would install a Base-Mounted Television Stand using bolt/nut/washer through the shelf. <S> Depending on the size of the television you are mounting, you might even be able to store the television inside the shadow box. <S> Note: This particular stand will withstand 25 pounds. <S> A Samsung 48" Smart Television weighs 24.9 pounds without the stand attached. <S> You could cut a single 2x4 (tight fit) and place it vertically against the rear wall of the shadow box and install a few small "L" brackets underneath the shelf to prevent the shelf from giving in any way. <A> First you should probably get a stud finder they are supposed to be every 18" or so. <S> https://www.oneforall.com/explore/vesa-mounting-standard-explained#/step-1 <S> Normally your TV has VESA mounting holes. <S> Affix the back plate to the wall. <S> Attach the TV to front plate, and connect the 2 plates <S> however the manufacture says to in the manual. <S> I can't go into any further details because there are dozen if not hundreds of different designs for VESA mounting kits. <S> You get the one that suits your needs.
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You could even screw a 2x4 along the back wall into the stud, and then attach a VESA mounting kit to that. Buy any one of 1000's of VESA mounting kits from a store. This saves money and results in a more stable setup.
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Do we need steel beams when installing an Egress Window Our contractor suggests that we use steel beams restraints when we implement our egress window his explanation is: "Because your foundation is so tall, I don't want to cut the egress without putting a vertical steel beam restraint on each side of the new window. Your foundation will be weakened after the cut. The foundation will break within 5 years because of the hydrostatic pressure on the west side. " Does this make sense ... Our basement ceilings are 12 feet tall ... Thanks Paul <Q> In my area, qualified engineers are required to review modifications to building structures. <S> Also a 12' high basement wall is no small item, <S> openings place in it can cause issues if not done properly. <S> As Joe and others have mentioned, often times when placing new openings in existing concrete or cmu walls, two different load carry elements are compromised. <S> Vertical Carry Capacity. <S> This is where steel lintels are used to carry the wall above that was previously carried by the wall that is being removed. <S> Lateral Load Carry Capacity. <S> Basement walls are designed to carry pressure perpendicular to their surface. <S> Be it from wind, soil, water, or seismic. <S> Openings (full height or partial height) create a weakness that must be compensated for. <S> Steel beams (running vertically from foundation to floor system above) can be used to support the weakness created by placement of a new openings. <S> Personally I would insist that a qualified professional review any modifications of this type. <S> They can gather the necessary information (something we cannot do here), and make the correct judgement call. <S> This way you can get your second opinion, check the contractor, and rest easy knowing that your home is going to be safe. <A> I agree with your contractor. <S> A 12' pour is extreme (and awesome) for residential. <S> but why? <S> It is really an opinion thing as the force on the wall is a relative unknown to the engineer. <S> Soils like clay hold a lot of water and can expand. <S> Given #1, <S> the drainage right next to your foundation. <S> A lot of foundations don't have a proper way to deal with #1. <S> There are lots of systems that can funnel water by the house a few feet away. <S> How packed the soil is. <S> The amount of water pressure from underground water sources. <S> I had a house where if you dug three feet down on one side of the house there was a stream and it would run for days after a rain. <S> I simply diverted it with a faux wall before house corner. <S> Frost cycles. <S> With a rain and then weeks of freezing can probably do more damage than the reasons above. <S> Earthquakes/movement. <S> My point is this isn't an exact science unless there is a deep analysis of your exact situation. <S> An engineer is probably going off of local guidelines or load charts. <S> The other thing is - given this opening what engineer would say don't support it? <S> I treat this type of situation the exact same way I treat opening up load bearing walls. <S> Over-engineer, and spend less money on engineers. <S> To me adding vertical supports is a no-duh thing. <S> You have a 12' pour and you want to ruin that by not putting in a few vertical supports? <S> The cost not to do it will probably be half the cost of the beams/anchors. <S> Also if basement doesn't have a door I would think about it given these costs. <A> Sounds like he's (your contractor) talking about lintels. <S> Here's an example of a lintel installed at the time of the wall being erected Allied Steel <S> Edit, possibly lateral bracing with beams placed as posts? <S> Acculift Foundation Repair <S> If a contractor was suggesting that this should be done, it must be for a good reason.
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From my experience, if the contractor is worried about the strength of something, there is probably good reason to have it reviewed by an engineer. In order to pick up the load of the brick or concrete above the opening steel lintels are installed. Some things that will effect or pressure basement walls - The dry and wet cycle of your soil. I could see how it can be precived as overkill, but as long as the price is reasonable I'd be good with it in my house. It is his/her butt on the line if it fails. You could take this to an engineer Meaning he is giving an educated guess. A beam can be use instead of a lintel.
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How to unfasten electrical subpanel attached with ramset I'm getting ready to frame out a wall in my basement that has an electrical subpanel. I would like to move the panel out an inch or so, so I can frame around it and it will be flush with the finished wall. There is plenty of room and extra cable above so that I shouldn't need to rewire anything. My original plan was to remove cover, frame around it, turn off power, unscrew panel and slide it forward, reattach to studs, replace cover, turn power back on. But, the builders attached it with a ramset directly to the concrete! So, does anyone have any ideas on how to get that thing removed without having to disconnect all of the wiring to get a prybar in there? There might be enough clearance to get a sawsall blade behind the box and cut the nails from there, but I wouldn't bet on it. Any other ideas would be much appreciated. <Q> Powder-actuated gun nails are extremely hard. <S> You don't want to have to cut them with a saw, and you probably won't have room anyway. <S> Get yourself an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel. <S> You should then be able to pull the box off the nail shafts. <S> You may also be required to install conduit behind the box, where the wires are exposed. <A> You could drill around it with a 3/8 hole saw with the pilot bit removed, even a 1/4" might work. <S> Don't push too hard on the washer <S> so it doesn't come free. <S> If it does come free drill a hole in it off to the side and insert a nail to stop it from turning. <S> Dremil is expensive if you don't already have one and could take a while. <S> A grinder is a little cumbersome working in a panel. <S> All will work just adding some options. <A> There seems to be some different ideas between pros about how to do this, according to the following link from 2013. <S> https://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/83252/Best-Method-to-Remove-Shot-Fire-Nail <S> If you ignore the sub-conversation about using these nails in the first place: At least one person suggests grinding them down, but there's also someone that says it won't work. <S> One poster suggests using a small prybar to pop the heads off or "simply" pull the nails out. <S> Another poster suggests drilling out the heads, which was my first thought, but another person says that won't work. <S> Evidently the nails are case hardened to be able to penetrate the concrete. <S> I'd think a grinder would be your best bet, but if it doesn't work, try the drill option, with some really sharp bits. <S> Leave the prybar for last, as that can shoot nail or concrete at high velocity any/everywhere. <S> As always, be safe and use the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). <S> Oh, and good luck, too! <S> It sounds like you're going to need it.
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Bracing your hands well against the box, carefully grind away just the heads of the nails. Obviously, take all necessary precautions when working around electrical current, and use eye and ear protection. Caveat: Be sure that you have enough length available on your primary conductors to make the move you have planned.
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Furnance Drain Line Not Draining Recently had a new furnace/ac/ductwork installed in our home. The furnace/air handler are located in the attic on the second floor of the home. A drain line is run from the unit to the utility room on the first floor where it feeds into a floor drain. About a month after the system was turned on I noticed that the drain line (clear plastic flex tubing) was not draining properly. This tubing runs through a joist bay between my first and second floors (currently open due to renovation) in order to get from the attic on one side of the house to the utility room on the other side. The tubing is not run at a pitch so the water is pooling and not draining. I asked the HVAC installer if that was a problem and he said it wasn't. I assume it IS a problem, is that correct? If the line were to be adjusted to run at a pitch, would that solve the problem? Or should it be draining currently due to negative pressure? Thanks! <Q> You are correct though it should be pitched <S> so there's no standing water. <S> Standing water will lead to the build up of scale, mold etc. <S> and those things will eventually clog it. <A> It isn't a problem. <S> This is all condensed humidity, or basically distilled water, and none of it is evaporating inside the pipe, so scale won't happen. <S> Nor is mold likely, as there isn't much for it to grow on (although I wouldn't drink the water). <S> Many people (myself included) have condensing furnaces, where the condensate is pumped up, across, and down into some sort of drain. <S> In that case there's various things dissolved in the water from the burning process (e.g. making the condensate acidic), but it still isn't a problem. <S> If you really want to, take a look in a year or two and see if anything's built up. <S> My guess is it won't. <A> I always install a secondary drain pan under all the equipment. <S> A small leak on a furnace in the basement would result in an "oh maybe I should have a look at this" response. <S> A small leak in an attic results in having to replace the drywall on ceilings and walls as well as repainting. <S> I'd get it in writing from your contractor that they're responsible for any damages. <S> You may have to agree to a yearly maintenance for for that to be valid. <S> You won't get warranty on your car if you neglected to maintain it. <S> The sanding water in the pipe is not likely to be of concern but some funk does build up hence the yearly maintenance.
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You'll more likely have leakage/blockage problems at the A/C air handler itself; you should probably think about what happens if the drain gets blocked there. For attic installations I always (if possible) run a full vented and trapped drain up to the attic. If it's draining from the second floor to the first floor it will drain.
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My air conditioner sparks, but only sometimes, even with a new cable I am not sure if this question fits here. But it's important and it's about troubleshooting and electric problem. So I will try... My air conditioner shows from time to time electric sparks for the past two days. Today the air con electrician came and he put a new cable between the unit inside the room and the compressor outside. And we tested it for about 30min and all looked fine. But now the sparks are back again. Where should we look for the problem? Here are some details: This is happening in a high rise building in Bangkok with tropical climate. Currently it's about 30 degrees Celsius and 80% humidity. The air-con is maybe 5 years old, it's the traditional type, no modern converter version. The sparks, if they show at all, are 90% of the time on one side of the Evaporator (the unit in the room where the cold air comes outside). On that side the yellow/green earth wire is connected to the metal of the unit. The sparks are sometime only small, I hear a short "tick" noise and see almost nothing. But sometimes the tick noise is loud and the spark is clearly visible from a distance. But sometimes the sparks happen somewhere else. I saw sparks also twice in the ceiling near, or maybe in, a metal distribution box. The problem happened the first time two days ago. We saw the sparks sometimes every few seconds and sometimes only once in half an hour. Obviously I switch the air-con off if it happens. But then we tried again, maybe an hour later. Then there are maybe no sparks for 20 minutes, and then they start again. It seems the sparks only happen if the compressor outside is actually running. If I use the unit only to blow the fan, without the compressor running, then I don't see the sparks. Normally I hear a humming noise from the compressor outside when it's running. When the sparks happen then that humming noise is temporarily (maybe for a second) less, like someone pulled the plug and put it in again after a second. Like I wrote above, the air-con technician was here and he inspected the unit in the room and found no blank cables or something similar. So he decided to replace two cables which run in the ceiling from the indoor unit to the compressor. One cable has 3 power wires (plus, minus, earth) and one is the control cable with 2 wires. When he finished the job all looked fine. He left maybe 30 minutes later while the air-con and compressor were running. After maybe 30 minutes more the sparks started again. The breaker (fuse) did not switch off with all these sparks. We have to keep in mind this is a Thailand electrical installation. Here electricians don't always follow the rules they should follow - if they know the rules at all. There is also a problem that we have mice in the building recently. Maybe one of those creatures ate through the insulation somewhere? Where to look for the problem? Now I ask this question here because I am sure when the technician arrives tomorrow he will think about where else the problem could be. He replaced one cable and that was probably not the problem. So what else should he check or test or replace? The air-con guy has worked at his job for many years. But I am pretty sure he didn't go to university and study electrical engineering. He likely won't analyze the situation too carefully... Any ideas where to look for what kind of problems are welcome. We have to keep in mind that sometimes it works just fine for 30 minutes. So finding the problem is not easy. And even if we think it's fixed we won't know until hours later... <Q> Now it's a week later and since an hour I have a new air-con installed. <S> The technician from the old air-con was here basically every day last week. <S> And every day he fixed some more cables and every day it seemed to work when he left. <S> Most of the time it worked for at least an hour <S> and then not anymore. <S> Finally, since last Friday we didn't have any sparks anymore. <S> The air-con started ok but then after anywhere between 10 to 30 minutes, it was not cold anymore. <S> Finally, on Monday, the air-con guy diagnosed that the compressor sized and it's time for a new one. <S> This is obviously not "the" answer for every case like this. <S> But I wanted to let you know that this is what happened in my case. <S> Maybe this will be helpful to someone else in the future. <A> Normally I hear a humming noise from the compressor outside when it's running. <S> When the sparks happen then that humming noise is temporarily (maybe for a second) less, like someone pulled the plug and put it in again after a second. <S> This is the key clue. <S> Something is interrupting the flow of power to the compressor, inside the indoor unit. <S> Carefully trace all of the wiring inside the indoor unit that transfers power from the building supply to the place where the cable that runs to the compressor connects. <S> Check any screw connections for tightness. <S> The fact that it occurs after 20 minutes or so suggests that something is heating up and expanding. <A> It might just be static electricity discharge... <S> Did you install this or was it there when you moved in? <S> Those things spark all the time as they generate a high voltage static charge to make the smoke particles stick to the filter. <S> It's harmless, but annoying.
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Interrupting the current while the compressor is running creates the spark. You'll probably find a loose connection somewhere along the way. Someone may have added an electrostatic air filter because they were smokers.
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Tailpipe of sink not aligning with P trap The tailpipe of the sink is about 1" behind the P-trap. It's also too long. If I try to jury-rig it and force the connection, it throws everything off including the vanity top. I can probably cut the tail pipe, but hope it's not necessary to cut the P-trap/drain because it's all pretty permanent. I probably could cut above the P-trap if I really had to. I've watched numerous YouTube videos and tried to make this work, but I cannot. The male thread piece on top of the P-trap seems off, too, because every nut/connector is loose. I bought a Snappy Trap assembly, thinking the smooth-sided flex pipe was what I needed but I can't make that work either. <Q> It looks like you have 1.5" pipe there, and, for some odd reason, someone decided to convert it to 1.25" right off the sink drainpipe (and with glued PVC to boot). <S> This makes for some frustrating work, especially, if that drain ever gets clogged (good luck getting into that P-trap). <S> I would make the same cut Michael Karas made on the pipe coming out of the wall, but I would downsize to 1.25 at that point and install a standard 1.25" hand-screw trap. <S> The new tail piece screws into the adapter and can be moved back and forth as needed to ensure you line up with the new drain. <S> And all your connections are hand fittings now, so drain maintenance is far easier. <A> One method to solve the problem is to cut the pipe near the wall right at the point indicated by the black arrows. <S> You then buy some new PVC fittings and PVC cement and make up a new trap assembly like the one you have now. <S> The pipe that was cut off at the wall will now allow the new assembly to be about 1" closer to the back wall of the cabinet. <S> When working with the new fittings do dry fit all the pieces to make sure you get the alignment you need before committing to cementing them together. <S> The too long tail piece can be accommodated either by sawing off the lower end of the blue piece or by making the vertical riser of the new trap assembly a bit shorter. <A> An easy fix I've used for this is simply buy a second p trap and turn it sideways. <S> Connect it to your drain pipe coming out of the wall. <S> Then, using a short piece of PVC, connect it to your existing trap, oriented as usual. <S> You now have several planes of movement that you can adjust to where you need it. <S> I understand the trap is glued <S> but you may want to consider replacing it with one (or 2) new ones anyway for future access. <S> I can attach a picture of this later if further explanation is needed.
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You can glue this convertor on and then buy a PVC P-trap kit (you will likely need an extension pipe cut to size to make the trap reach the existing drain).
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Is adding a Time Delay/Dual Element Fuse a good idea for pump motor install I have 240v circuit with 12awg wire that will service a 3/4hp motor (about 5amps max at 240v). That circuit is protected by a standard 20amp breaker. I was wondering if it is a good idea/warranted to put in a 10amp time-delay fuse at the motor as extra protection? Like this for example. 600V Slow Blow Class CC Time Delay Fuse Problem with this style fuse I can't find a single fuse holder/block and the three place ones are 6 times the price of a fuse on ebay. Can one use a more standard glass/ceramic type fuse for this application? like this Bussmann MDA 10A 250v Slow Blow Time Delay Ceramic Fuse because holders for this are common and cheap. <Q> There is no real need to put a 10A fuse on it in addition to the breaker. <S> The 20A breaker will be enough protection regarding overload and short circuits. <S> The only recommendation I would give is to put it on a GFCI because it's for a pump in a presumably wet location. <A> Regular breakers are already time-delay/dual-element, so you don't need an extra device for this. <S> You could just downbreaker at the panel. <S> Change the 20A breaker for a 15, or if you're willing to hunt down a 10A, do that. <S> Each series point in a circuit has exactly the same current, so it doesn't matter where the breaker/fuse is located. <S> Besides, fuseholders may be readily available as components, but that doesn't mean it's easy to mount them in a safe, Code-legal and serviceable manner. <S> Speaking of components.... <S> You must stop buying electrical components on eBay, AliExpress/AliBaba, or Amazon Marketplace . <S> (For the difference see this post ). <S> This stuff is almost all cheap Cheese junk that has never, and will never, see the inside of a reputable testing lab like Underwriter's Laboratories (UL). <S> For mains wiring this type of imported junk is prohibited by NEC 110.2, which requires items be approved (by your local authority, but they defer to UL and comparable labs such as CSA or TUV). <S> CE is not a testing lab. <S> Sellers on Amazon Marketplace lie constantly about "By (manufacturer)", but in all fairness, this one looks legit . <S> Here, it appears the US factory is using Amazon's warehouse as a drop-shipper <S> so they don't need to staff their own shipping department. <S> When you do this -- a few more clicks and you're on Amazon Marketplace, and Prime members get free 2-day shipping. <A> In passing: If you haven't bought the pump yet, give thought to the 3 phase variable frequency drive pumps. <S> They are more expensive, but they use frequency control to keep the pressure nearly constant if you are drawing more than 1 gpm. <S> This reduces pump cycling, and keeps the water level in the well more constant. <S> Net result: fewer future problems. <S> Here, the main supplier of these is Gould. <A> Thermal protection matters Since your pump motor, according to its documentation (assuming it is accurate) has integral thermal overload protection, then you don't need to provide anything besides the branch-circuit short-circuit (and possibly ground-fault) protection at the panel. <S> This means that your existing 20A breaker is fine provided
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the wiring is sized appropriately: there is no need for a fuse or a downsized breaker to protect the motor from overload.
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How can I prevent a humidifier from getting moldy? I have a small cool mist humidifier. It has a water tank and ejects a mist and does not have a filter or anything. It is "TaoTronics" brand in case anyone wants to find it. I've noticed pink streaks accumulating where the mist ejects, and also where the water collects. This seems to be mold, and a lot of it. I cleaned it thoroughly with water and vinegar and thought perhaps running it continuously would prevent mold from accumulating, but I was wrong. After a week of continuously running it 24/7, the mold returned. How can I prevent mold from accumulating in this humidifier? The only options I see at this time are: Clean the humidifier weekly (huge hassle). Always run the humidifier with a mold-killing substance in the water (vinegar? chlorine? Would this be SAFE? Would it break humidifier?) Use distilled water (expensive and hassle). How can I prevent this humidifier from getting moldy? <Q> My mom puts a silver dollar in hers, I think they need to be pre 1960's to have enough silver <S> she says the silver kills stuff naturally <S> (she also puts one in the pitcher in the fridge for drinking water) she has done this for years and swears by it. <A> You can just buy a humidifier treatment solution which also has algae/bacteria suppressing chemicals. <S> Typically you add 1-2 capfuls per gallon of water. <S> They were pretty standard with the older large humidifiers but also work for the newer cool mist humidifiers. <S> Just search cool mist humidifier water treatment bacteriostatic and make sure the one you buy is safe for your humidifier. <A> I think boiling the water would likely kill the bacteria and mould. <S> Possibly doing this in conjunction with the other proposed answers should do the trick ever in the most extreme case. <S> With a kettle it would be easy. <S> Boil the water before bed and pour it in, in the morning. <A> I have read many articles that say that you should only use distilled water with a humidifier. <S> The reason being is that there are numerous minerals in regular tap water that will become airborne with cool mist humidifiers. <S> These minerals become "white dust". <S> This white dust is a very fine particulate that takes a rather good air filter to take out of the air. <S> Any fine particulate is potentially harmful for you to breathe in as it irreparably damages your lungs. <S> Do yourself a favor first of all and use only distilled water. <S> We also use a tiny amount of vinegar in our humidifier and it certainly makes the humidifier last longer in between cleanings. <S> We still clean ours once a month at a minimum however.
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Silver has known antibacterial effects and a cap full of solution into boiled water doesn't sound too unreasonable.
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Green Glue with wall tiles for soundproofing? Wall Tiles https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B016UPADF0/ I'm thinking of adding soundproofing to my home's bedroom using these tiles and Green Glue. There is only 1 shared wall + door between this bedroom and the rest of the house. My hope is the soundproofing comes from the Green Glue (not the tiles) which is supposed to adsorb sound and exchange it for heat: https://www.greengluecompany.com/ The tiles are only there to support the Green Glue, and for aesthetics. Would that work? Any risks? Would you say I still need to add extra soundproofing behind the drywall? The goal is to keep sounds inside the bedroom. So, for example, it won't travel to other bedrooms and wake people up. Sounds I'm trying to damper are TV or.. erm.. being with the wife. <Q> I'm skeptical that these panels will help with soundproofing. <S> I didn't see anything in the description of the material that called out it's soundproofing characteristics and it does not seem to be thick enough to do much. <S> Per the questions section at the URL you posted for Amazon: <S> Question : <S> How thick are these? <S> Answer : <S> Hi Steve. <S> The panels are only 2-3 mm on the flat areas of the panel and hollow in the back. <S> The embossed areas come out about half inch. <S> Thank you <S> You need to assess where the sound you are hearing is coming from and determine the best way to block or absorb that sound. <S> Here is an article that covers tips on soundproofing .The <S> article makes the point that most of the sound coming into your room will be from the windows and offers suggestions. <A> GreenGlue (GG) is not an adhesive, so it will not suffice in securing the tiles to the wall. <S> Instead, you will need a double layer of drywall for this. <S> The GG will be sandwiched between the two layers and the panels will be applied to the second layer per their own directions. <S> Assuming you already have the first layer, get yourself some additional 1/4" drywall panels. <S> Apply the GG to the back of these panels per the directions, find the seams of the existing drywall panels, and stagger the new panels over them. <S> Remember that drywall in home applications is horizontal, not vertical, so you will need to do some tricky drywall cutting/snapping to stagger the new panels. <S> In the off chance that the existing drywall was hung vertically, staggering will be much easier. <S> You're not done yet, though, because you will have gaps between the new drywall panels that will need to be filled with sound-dampening compound. <S> A single tube of accoustical caulk should fill in these gaps (I've used QuietSeal, but GG makes their own as well). <S> You will likely not need to mud or tape the new layer of drywall since you're going to cover it all up with these tiles. <S> Lastly, I will advise not to forget about flanking paths. <S> Edit: <S> I just read the new info you added. <S> This application should help contain noise generated by television and sweaty surfaces of skin slapping together. <S> So there's obviously a lot more to soundproofing than meets the eye. <S> If you go my route, you will need to learn how to measure, cut/snap, and fasten drywall, but there are a lot of easy tutorials on how to do that. <A> Whatever you are doing with the green glue is fine but the most important thing is to take all of the drywall off the walls and pack the cavities with mineral wool insulation - jam packed. <S> This will outproduce anything else 5 times over. <S> Note that adding another layer of drywall effects door and trim and closets. <S> So quite a big undertaking. <S> I would also add is that most sound goes out the door cavity. <S> Two really easy things you could test to reduce sound: Hang thick yoga mat over the door - as close as you can to it. <S> I have even seen people cut out the door knob in the mat. <S> Also a towel at the bottom of the doorway to cover gap. <S> A thin big pillow behind TV. <S> A lot of the bass from the TV sound travels out the back. <S> You can get rid of this volume in other rooms by dampening it right by the TV.
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I mention this because as another poster said you will need to add another layer of drywall for the green glue so you might as well do it right. You can soundproof a wall, but, if there is space beneath the floor (crawl space or another story) or above the ceiling (attic space), sound could flank below and above the wall you soundproofed and reach the room on the other side depending on the noise level.
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How can I remove the service cover on my refrigerator when the process stub is in the way? I would like to replace the power cord of an Electrolux refrigerator. Besides the compressor ( HTK70AA ) there is a small black plastic cover that needs to be removed to access the electrical connections (see page 2 of the linked datasheet, it is simply labeled as "Cover"). The cover needs to be slid out of its place, but unfortunately the process stub (the small sealed 3rd tube protruding out of the compressor) is in the way. I think the cover cannot be removed in any other way without breaking. How can I bend the stub out of its place? I do not want to crush or break it. It appears to be made of steel and copper welded together, and the end of the copper part clamped. I guess if I would start bending it at the copper part, the steel part wouldn't move much because it's harder, and I would only end up breaking the weld. Bending at the steel part could work, but then I would have to either grab it with pliers (and risk crushing it), or start hammering it from the downside to bend it upwards (which again can crush or break the tube). Maybe I could just grab the steel part with my fingers and try bending, but again I was afraid on ruining the tube and thus the compressor. EDIT : The refrigerator is an Electrolux ERF2404FOW. Here is a photo about the situation: <Q> Okay so the process stub is the location of where vacuum is pulled and the refrigerant is pumped in. <S> The stub is then pinched off tight enough to seal it and then the line is cut and brazed. <S> The copper is very flexible. <S> The weak point is the steel-copper joint. <S> If you must bend it, do so at the copper portion. <S> I personally would cut around it depending on what the condition of the joints looked like and the age of the unit. <S> Copper work-hardens and the vibration of compressor and pressure changes from cycling is enough to harden the copper. <S> With all that in mind bending it and kinking it is not a concern because it no longer has any use. <S> Edit <S> Guangdong <S> As you can see here the stub is intact on replacement compressors. <S> What happens is the suction and discharge lines are connected and the stub is used to pull vacuum, leak check and charge the system. <S> At that point it's a totally useless vestigial appendage. <S> As long as it doesn't crack open, you could bend it over out of the way. <S> Again the weak point is the connection at the compressor where the copper is fused to the steel. <S> Disturbing any part of the refrigeration system is ill advised but as a last resort it is acceptable. <S> It could result in a leak at which point you buy a new refrigerator because repairs on a refrigerator compressor are stupid expensive and likely to fail prematurely. <A> Probably a good idea to put in some form of clamp to the floor or frame of the freezer to provide strain relief. <A> From your photo, it looks like the terminal board & cover are held on by a tab on the compressor that goes through a slot in the terminal board unit: <S> Once it's off you should have plenty (for some values of "plenty") of room to maneuver that box around to get the cover off of it. <S> Note: <S> There is likely another tab/slot like this on the other side of the terminal board unit - you'd have to straighten that tab out, too. <S> Some linesman's pliers would probably do the trick to straighten that tab out: <S> Source: Wikipedia <S> Once you've got a new cord in place, replace the unit and bend the tabs back again.
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Given the risk mentioned in other answers and comments, I would play it safe and splice the wire a few inches away from the box. If you can get in there with some heavy pliers, you may be able to bend those tabs back straight and pull the whole unit off the compressor. It's then pinched off very tightly, the line is cut and pinched again at the tip and welded shut using silver phosphorus (SilFos). The braze is stronger than the copper.
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How to connect 4” PVC to broken sewer line? I have a piece of broken cast iron pipe with almost no overhang. Wondering what are my options here? <Q> You would need to remove material aound the pipe to provide sufficient connection. <S> I am not aware if they make an internal plastic version - but that would mean cleaning and sealing the internal surface which tends to be in worse condition that the outside... <A> A Fernco <S> (brand-name often used as a generic term) <S> coupling is the standard approach, and you'd need to open up some space around the pipe to attach one. <S> Otherwise you're going to need to dig outside and replace that section of pipe through the wall. <S> Not associated, though I may have to buy a couple to solve a problem on my plumbing. <S> The " sheilded " variant adds a layer of metal to make the assembly more rigid and may be worth the additional cost. <A> Unfortunately there was no easy way to fix it. <S> As a result, I had to dig outside, cut the cast iron outside (rented a tool at home depot) and then used rubber coupling to connect one to another
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I know that plastic convertors exist(ed) as the plumber used one for us...
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How can I fix this gap between bookcases I made? I just built two bookcases to line the wall of a room in my house and apparently didn't build them square enough so, when I put them next to each other, I get this giant gap. (I think the one on the right is pretty square but the one on the left appears to lean to the left at the top.) Any suggestions on how I can make this look better? The shelves are going to be sanded, spackled, caulked, and painted. One thought I had would be to remove the vertical strips of molding where the two bookcases meet (there is 3/4" square molding on all the edges) and make one custom piece that attaches to both. This piece would be wider at the top and taper at the bottom. Maybe that would look bad--I don't know. It also wouldn't address the gap on the top horizontal surface. Any suggestions would be appreciated! <Q> Swap their positions. <S> Place the bookcases so that they lean into each other instead of away from each other. <S> This will eliminate the gap between the tops. <S> Bookcase contents are usually quite heavy. <S> Once the cases are filled, you will probably find that you can force the bottoms together and the weight of the contents will distort the shape of the cases so the gap disappears. <S> If an unsightly gap remains visible then you will need to resort to a decorative molding. <A> Thanks everyone; I figured it out and came back here to update my post and noticed that Michael Karas said the same thing I realized (although it was a comment, so I couldn't mark it as the correct answer): I had to pop the back off the left unit (which was actually quite easy because it was just 1/4" plywood attached with brads and no glue), re-rack the unit into square, and then reattach the back. <S> Thanks for the input! <A> You don't have to buy or get a framing square : just measure the diagonals... <S> That will tell you if either or both units are out of square. <S> If they are both ok, then look to the floor - small change in the floor will make a large gap at the top... <S> Then you need some adjustable feet of some sort. <A> I have used interscrews (e.g. from screwfix ) in the past to join units together to make them line up nice and tight. <A> Nail the molding to only one unit so they can be easily separated if you want to move them. <A> I would turn the left bookcase upside down.
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If the other side of the left bookcase is more square, or slants to the right, this will fix your problem. If the shelves are sturdy, just get some molding and cover the junction of the two units.
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Switch Between Paint and Sealer for Sprayer I have a Graco Magnum x9 airless paint sprayer. I have only used it for latex paint. I am planning to refinish my deck this spring with a sealer of some sort. Can I switch back and forth between type of product as long I wash the sprayer out or should I stick to latex only? <Q> If you want to switch back and forth between oil and latex products, it is best to have a separate hose for each (as per Graco ). <S> Graco sprayers, hoses, guns, etc, are designed to be compatible with all of these types of fluids. <S> There are a few other considerations that you should be aware of. <S> Be sure that all equipment is of sufficient size and of a high enough pressure rating to work with the material that is being sprayed. <S> Another issue to be aware of is that no matter how well a sprayer is cleaned out, some residue will remain behind. <S> It is not uncommon to have pigmented paints contaminate a clear coating like varnish and lacquer. <S> Ideally, we would recommend two different sprayers, but at the very least, you should use a dedicated hose for lacquer and clear coatings. <A> From personal experience (spent two summers in college as an Industrial Painter) here are a couple things I learnt about your question. <S> Oil paints can break down latex, which in your current situation is a good thing as it would help clear out the lines. <S> However, if you were to switch back to latex down the road, it could be detrimental as there is always paint and residue left behind which could negatively impact the latex paint. <S> Also, oil paints typically require a different cleaning process (post-job) for your machine and depending on the specifications (not sure on Graco <S> , I use Titan) <S> the cleaning solution could be even worse for latex paint than your oil stain. <S> For my personal use I have a Titan ControlMax 1500 Airless , and like you have done primarily latex. <S> However, I did my fence this summer and to do it <S> I bought a new hose, gun and tip in order to ensure that my spray was clean and relatively uncontaminated. <S> I don't know what Graco offers in terms of accessories, but it could be something to look into for future jobs. <A> As long as you properly flush the sprayer and hose with each use, you shouldn't have problems with switching. <S> Ofc make sure your Graco sprayer says you can use oil-based products, some sprayers have internal parts that don't handle those solvents well <S> (most Graco sprayers do support use with oil-based products, and maybe all do - <S> but it's wise to verify). <S> With oil based products you'll probably need to flush with mineral spirits unless it specifically states otherwise in the instructions for the product you're applying.
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Switching between water-based and solvent-based materials can also make the insides of the pump gummy and sticky.
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Need ideas on putting drywall on old walls with plywood I have old walls with plywood and on top of it there are wood battens. I want to put the drywall to make it look nice, since currently to me it looks more of old style. I have taken off one of the wood batten to see what is underneath. I need suggestions on Can I just screw the drywall on top of wood battens? How about if I remove batten and then screw in dry wall? At one of the wall I would have drywall meeting the brick wall. How would I finish it? I also have some doors in the room, is there a way if I don’t remove the door frame and just have the drywall flush to the door frame? Since they are 0.5 inch out. <Q> It would be best to remove the paneling. <S> The plywood paneling is probably 1/4" thick. <S> You can buy drywall @ <S> 3/8 <S> " thick, so not a huge change, just an extra 1/4". <S> In addition to your door jambs, you probably have electrical outlets to account for. <S> Unless they have exceptionally long screws, you'll run into some trouble there. <S> Removing the paneling isn't really hard work, or even too long a task. <S> As suggested in the comments, it might be helpful to see what is behind that paneling <S> so you know where to be careful. <S> It might be quite insightful. <S> At a time like this, you also have the opportunity to lay in any structured cabling you may want (cat6, cable, etc). <S> The paneling may be behind your door jamb casing (the part on the same plane as the wall). <S> I've seen it both ways. <S> You'll know pretty quick once you start removing a panel next to a door. <S> The casing is removed by cutting both sides with a razor knife (cuts free paint and caulk), then using a small pry bar or flat head screw driver to move the casing away from the wall. <S> It breaks easily, so careful and listen for cracking sounds. <S> It may be required to shim out the casing when you reattach it. <S> You can cut strips from the paneling to do this. <S> Just a thought, and it may not apply to you, but if you're hesitant about removing the paneling based on time, the time it takes to remove the paneling is nothing, absolutely nothingm compared to the time to properly do those drywall joints (oh, and the mess!) <S> As for the seam where the brick is, some shoe molding should work. <S> Based on the picture, it will be fine at the ceiling, but I didn't see a picture of your baseboards. <S> If you're experienced with a coping saw, you should be OK with the baseboards too. <S> Good luck! <A> 1) If your battens are about 16" on center, you can definitely screw the drywall right to them. <S> If they aren't, you can add furring strips between them and screw to those too. <S> 2) <S> Since you clarified that you have 1/2" plywood, you can also remove the batten boards and screw to the plywood. <S> Your drywall screws will be 1" - 1 1/4", so excessive screw penetration won't be a problem with normal 1/2" drywall. <S> Either way, you will need to get some kind of plaster ring extension for your electrical boxes. <S> 3) Butt your drywall up to the bricks and cover the gap with a quarter-round or base shoe trim. <S> 4) <S> When you say "door frame" do you mean the jambs (flat parts where the hinges and strike plate are) or the casing (trim around the door)? <S> You could butt the drywall up to the casing, but it would look weird. <S> Trim over the butt joint would make it look a little less weird. <S> Your best bet would be to remove the casing from the jamb, fur the jamb out <S> 1/2" (or 1" if you leave on the battens), and reinstall new casing over the drywall. <A> Drywall can butt trim and be flat taped in ,and fine bead of caulking. <S> Same up to fireplace. <S> If you do not like the look add molding. <S> You can add box extensions or old work boxes to the electrical to keep them flush. <S> As always be aware of lead paint,may be present. <S> So remove paneling could be nightmare,leave it.
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Yes you can drywall over plywood, mark on floor were all studs are and try to screw into studs.
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Safe to put nail into drywall when stud finder finds "live voltage"? I'm trying to hang a calendar on the drywall. Tried 3M small Command hook, but it falls off after a few days.Now I'm considering to use a nail or a drywall hook like this . I used a stud finder with live voltage detection feature (like this ), and I found that a pretty broad area near where I want to put calendar may have live AC voltage. I did some Google search. Someone suggested to ignore it if a short nail or drywall hook is used, since it's very unlikely to damage the wire. So my questions are: Is it safe to put nail into the drywall in this case? Should I worry about the live voltage reported by the stud finder? Any other recommendation for simply hanging a calendar? (I'll probably try a larger adhesive hook first) <Q> Chances of something happening are small (and really much greater chance to damage line than "shock" yourself) but it is there. <S> Also I doubt a nail would hang the calendar without eventually sagging. <S> Calendars are touched and moved and not ideal for just a nail - unless you can get that nail in framing. <S> Don't hit them or press them in. <S> Screw them in slowly <S> (I know there isn't threads) and once you pierce the drywall loosely move the main shaft up. <S> If you aren't applying pressure to it once it is in even if it hit a line it should not nick or pierce it. <S> I would go this route if you have to have the calendar in this exact location. <S> Monkey hooks are very strong and not invasive to your walls. <S> If you want to be extra safe with Monkey hooks you can bend the tip so it isn't sharp on the end once you get through the wall. <A> The wire should be 1-1/4" behind the face of the stud if done to code. <A> I had a stud finder simular to yours and it showed me electrical wires in places <S> I knew there weren't any. <S> I bought a new one and invested a little more money and now it works just fine. <S> I would stay away from any wires/ pipes if you can. <S> It's not worth the aftermath <S> and you never know if the previous owner/ contractor stuck to the code!
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Nail isn't exactly safe if you are directly nailing. Monkey hooks should be about as safe as it gets. It is also possible the wire is running down the stud in that case it would be on the side.
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Adding 2 X GFCIs to protect Switched and Unswitched Hot sharing same Neutral and Ground I currently have a switched and un-switched hot running underground in conduit sharing the same neutral and ground. Its important to note that they are both on the same circuit. Basically I have 4 wires (switched Hot, UnSwitched Hot, 1x Neutral, and 1 Ground). The Switched Hot powers 3 Lamps in my back yard and the unswitched hot powers a series of outlets in a shed. Currently the circuit is not protected by GFCI. I have access to a junction box before the conduit goes underground. Can I effectively install 2X GFCI switches and tie the Switched and Un-Switched Hots to their respective GFCI as normal and tie the two outlets in series with the same neutral. Im wondering if this setup may confuse the GFCIs since the 1X neutral will carry the current back from both Switched and un-switched hots in the event that both are drawing power at the same time. <Q> Thank You both... <S> As suggested I traced the circuit to the first switch witch was the one that controlled the light fixture in the dining room. <S> I went ahead and cut out the single gang outlet and fitted a two-Gang box and spliced in the GFCI and voila <S> both switched and un-switched lines are now protected with 1 GFCI. <S> Sorry about the first picture being on its side. <A> No. <S> The neutral current must exactly equal the phase current on any GFCI (within a margin of error), or it will trip. <S> They will be seeing only one load's current on the phase, but both on the neutral, making it unequal. <A> That is correct, the shared neutral will confuse the GFCIs. <S> Anyway that is a waste of a GFCI. <S> You should site a single GFCI device before the switch, ideally right at or after the service panel.
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Your options pretty much all require fitting the GFCI before the circuit splits at the first switch.
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Prime joint compound before latex paint? I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound. As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish. Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue? <Q> <A> If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. <S> It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well <S> (it's also latex). <S> It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall) <S> If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. <S> Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now. <A> Huh? <S> Of course you will. <S> Always. <S> Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. <S> The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable. <S> That is the entire point of primer . <S> You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) <S> - it's all dried primer. <S> The topcoat applies evenly. <S> Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque). <S> Primer is optimized to do this. <S> It's also cheaper. <S> Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it. <A> It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint. <S> It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface. <S> That is why I always use a sealer before patching. <S> Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. <S> It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. <S> After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
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Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run. A primer is recommended for joint compound.
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Is my Outdoor Mini Fridge Doomed? Wont get cold I'm having issues getting my Bull Mini Fridge to cool. It was not working when we bought the house, but we never really needed to use it. I have been trying to figure out why it doesn't cool. The lights come on when the door opens, but the wiring in the back is kind of a mess. I'm guessing a rat got into it, there are some frayed and severed wires, mostly the green ground wire. I tried reconnecting them all as I thought the ground loop would work, but still no cooling. I hear something turn on when i plug it in and the temp selector is at 6, but just never gets cold. Is this thing doomed? or could it be something I am missing? Anything else I can check? I'll take a picture of the wiring when I get home <Q> The only moving part in a mini fridge is the compressor. <S> If you plug the uint in and hear something come on, that is the compressor. <S> If the compressor is running, the wiring is probably ok. <S> If the compressor runs for a while and the fridge never cools, then you most likely need a professional to check out the sealed refrigeration components. <S> Normally this isn't worth the cost on a mini-fridge but outdoor units <S> are much more expensive <S> so it's probably worth a repair call to check it out. <A> How long did it sit unused? <S> I ask <S> because refrigeration compressors (if that's what yours uses) have motors that are "hermetically sealed" inside of the compressors, but there are still moving parts and those moving parts have rubber-like seals around them that keep the refrigerant inside. <S> The refrigerant also acts as a lubricant for the seals so if the fridge sits for a long time without running, the seals dry out, crack and let the refrigerant leak out. <S> Once it's gone, it no longer cools even though the compressor motor runs (until it locks up because it uses the refrigerant as a lubricant too). <A> It is possible it can be saved <S> but this is not a DIY project due to EPA laws. <S> I have found mini fridges to not have a long service life . <S> The problem I have found with them they have a very small Freon charge. <S> Most systems have small leaks which are two small to detect, but over time enough leaks out so it won't cool properly. <S> I have 3 or 4 that were given to me, I installed a service port and pumped them down then added the Freon all my fridges are r134a. <S> I do have a license and the proper equipment to do this you may be able to find a local shop that will recharge it for you at a reasonable cost if you take it in. <S> Most of these small units are so inexpensive that the time it takes to do the repair usually is 75% of the price of a new one, then <S> the Freon, and service port usually bring it over the top unless you have a friend that will do it on the side. <S> So it is possible but probably not DIY.
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In theory you could take it to an appliance service shop to be recharged, but if the seals are already gone, it's not worth fixing because the repair labor would cost you more than a new one.
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Right tool to dig six foot holes? I would like to dig some 6-12 inch diameter dry wells (any diameter in that range will work). The holes need to be at least 6 feet deep to reach the permeable layer of the soil. However, the equipment the local rental agency has will only dig 4-foot deep holes. What is the right equipment to dig 6-foot holes? The soil is clay with some sand. There are no rocks. It digs very easy. <Q> Depends a lot on the ground. <S> The advice to call for utility locating ahead of time is spot-on, no matter what you do to dig them. <S> In my ground, an auger is generally useless, since it will find a rock that it can't shift just about every time, so an excavator or backhoe with a bucket is the only tool (short of a well drilling rig that can drill through the rocks) that's going to work, and the well-drilling rig is far too expensive to set up for such piddly holes. <S> Well, actually, a pick and a shovel and a clamshell post-hole digger might work, if you want to go cheap and physical, and speed is not of the essence. <S> In nicer ground than mine, you'd dig some 2 ft deep large holes and then use your 4 ft auger, if cheap and physical and not very fast were your guiding principles, but you preferred renting the auger to a clamshell. <S> In my ground (if not using a backhoe/excavator) I'd go prospecting with the clamshell and then dig a large hole to move the bigger rocks aside and provide room to go deeper with the clamshell. <S> Beware of climbing into a hole deeper than waist deep that could collapse around you, since that can kill you, which could be regarded as "not cheap." <A> I dug some deck footers a couple years ago and my rental shop had 10" auger bits with a two-man auger (4 handles and a motor in the middle) for about $100 a day, made quick work of several holes <S> like you're talking about (I dug 7). <S> The bit itself was only about 3' long, but they'd also rent an extension bar if you wanted to go deeper <S> (I'm sure there's some max depth <S> but it went as deep as I wanted. <S> Some of the other options presented are not cheap (hiring a backhoe or tractor-mounted auger) or very physically straining (clamshell, hand auger) <S> so depending on your budget, physical fitness and local availability of tools, these two-man motorized augers might be a good option. <A> My personal favorite is vacuum excavation. <S> It's nothing fancy nor expensive; a respectably large wet-dry vac does the job nicely. <S> By "respectably large" I'm suggesting something with a 2.5" suction hose and a 14 gallon or larger capacity. <S> The process is simple. <S> Alternate between a tool that loosens the soil and the vacuum to remove soil from the growing hole. <S> With two people working in a moderately sized hole the steps can be done concurrently. <S> " It's a straight steel bar about 6 feet long with a flat on one end and a point on the other. <S> Occasionally a rock or clump of soil will block the hose and it'll have to be cleared, but progress is relatively quick and I find that it's much less effort than the traditional clamshell post hole digger. <S> Whereas your holes are to be 6 feet deep, and this is about the same length as the digging bar and also the pipe included with most wet-dry vacs, it may be necessary to extend these. <S> Purely by way of example, Home Depot (US) offers an "extension wand accessory" for their Rigid brand vacuums; one or two of these may be enough to reach the bottom. <S> The digging bar could be extended by welding or otherwise attaching a length of steel pipe at the end. <S> By the way: don't forget to empty the vacuum drum regularly. <S> It turns out that 14+ gallons of soil is heavy! <A> Depends on your budget, and the value of your time. <S> 1) <S> Hand auger <S> These things are backbreaking - but if you have unlimited time they will eventually do the job. <S> Notice the extensions? <S> You can drill until you run out of extensions or the ground is too hard to cut. <S> Performance is improved by using a sharp cutting edge, just like a sharp spade cuts better than a blunt one. <S> Note any rocks stop these things dead, so you have to use a crowbar to dislodge the rock, or dig another hole and hope to miss them all. <S> Also, a 4" / 100mm hole is half the work of a 6" / 150mm hole and is about 1/10th the work of a 12" / 300mm hole. <S> On the plus side, this tool is character-building, and great work for students on workdays :) <S> 2) <S> Tractor Mounted Auger <S> / Post Hole Digger <S> This one is front-mounted <S> These are also found mounted on the rear PTO <S> For deeper holes, you use a longer auger <S> Naturally you would hire this tool rather than buy it. <S> If you have no tractor then its better to just get a contractor to do it - probably drill all your holes in a morning session if you pre-clear access and clearly mark the locations before-hand. <A> Just call a daylighting company. <S> For around 400 bucks they'll suck the dirt out of the ground in the shape of cylindrical holes in about an hour for all of them. <S> Using clamshells deeper then four feet sucks. <S> Hand-held augers suck, unless you hate your back. <S> Your time is worth money. <S> 6' holes are tough.
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My tool of choice for loosening soil is a "digging bar.
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Is this wall load bearing? Blueprints and photos attached I would like to remove the highlighted wall on the second floor of my house in order to create a loft area. Please help me identify if I'm dealing with a load bearing wall. <Q> Contact a local structural engineer to take a look so you don't bring the house down. <S> A few details point to the wall visible in the photo being load <S> bearing: <S> The sloped ceiling implies the roof is right above it. <S> Roofs need supporting. <S> The blueprints mention a column in the corner instead of just letting them butt into each other. <S> This is only needed when that column is supporting a load. <S> Finally the blueprints have that wall shaded like they have the outer walls while the other inner walls are blank. <S> Outer walls are nearly always load bearing, while inner walls rarely are. <S> The walls around the closet are unlikely to be load bearing. <A> I'd bet it is bearing. <S> The picture shows a wall with a large opening and a door. <S> I'll assume the plan view is the second floor plan. <S> This typically means that they are secured to the rafters and are perpendicular. <S> The rafters are then resting one end on that wall. <S> This is also why you see the beam spanning the opening - to support the rafters. <S> In the plan view you can see that the most likely position of the ceiling joists to span is from the outside wall to the wall dividing the bedrooms and again from the dividing wall to the wall you propose to remove. <S> You could verify if you have attic access. <A> You need a layout of the ceiling joists to determined if it is load bearing. <S> However, I would highly lean towards believing that it is a structural support wall. <S> The exposed beam that runs in the span beside it is a good indicator. <S> Licensed Home Builder AL HBLB #25782 <A> So for all the clues others have mentioned that it's a bearing wall <S> I wouldn't touch it haha. <S> If you're dead set on opening this wall up, I believe it can still be done with shoring and doing somewhat of an extension of that beam and adding another column. <S> However, the height of those columns are pretty tall, I don't think the walls are the things bracing it from bucking, I think that's why they kinda "stiffen" it with the metal studs as noted on the drawings, but if it is indeed a part of the lateral system, that'd be really tough. <S> Go find a licensed structural engineer though and they can tell you all the possibilities and costs associated! <S> Structural engineers work for the owner and architect and their jobs are literally to make things work. <S> If internet strangers tell you it's a load bearing wall, that's not necessarily a red light. <S> A good structural engineer will probably tell you the same thing but also follow it up with solutions. <S> Construction won't be cheap though. <A> Observations studying the drawing, 100% Load Bearing. <S> Section A will confirm further. <S> Structural engineers will always span the shortest distance for timber joists. <S> Taking out that wall, is physically impossible to do that without steel <S> (span the floor over that <S> is what I mean.) <S> plus you would remove partial bearing support of the landing to the top of the stairs. <S> You could, to further be certain... <S> Check the wall at the base by scrabbling back the render /fiishess to the masonry... <S> And check for a dpc. <S> If it has one, it means it requires substructure support... <S> Aka... <S> If You decide to remove, prepare to either leave a portion of the wall nearest the external wall... <S> 2-3ft...or put in a windpost to support the external wall. <S> Very educated guess (graduate structural engineer... <S> 15 years in the industry). <S> All the best. <S> should you proceed with the refurb work.
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There is a beam in the open bit next to the wall. , I also wanna add, and this may or may not actually be applicable here, but that it's common to hatch shear walls diagonally like the drawings show, so not only is that wall a part of your load bearing system, it may also be a part of your lateral system. But definitely get a Structural engineer in who is local to confirm and Check the stability of your external wall Like most have already said, I also believe it's a load bearing wall.. This implies something is worth supporting up there. Disclaimer: I'm not a structural engineer, nor should you believe the word of a internet stranger. In the picture you can see your knotty pine running parallel with the wall. Foundation = load bearing.
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Do GFCI protected devices need to be labeled as such, if they are protected from another location? I'm doing a fairly substantial rewire of about half my house. In many places, like kitchen, bath, and outside/garage, I've replaced circuit breakers in my box with GFCI or dual function breakers. Now I have outlets in damp/wet locations that are GFCI protected, but aren't GFCI devices themselves. They were GFCI outlets, but I've replaced them with normal receptacles after upgrading the CB. Is there any required labeling, similar to the "no equipment ground" stickers you see sometimes? Or are these receptacles still required to be actual GFCI devices, even though the entire circuit is protected? (This doesn't make sense, but I've heard of sillier things). Of course, the inspector will tell me when they come out, but I'd rather get it right the first time. <Q> Outlets protected by an upline GFCI require a GFCI Protected marking. <S> Several stickers come with every GFCI device. <S> You will never see a Code requirement for a GFCI receptacle . <S> You can satisfy all Code requirements with GFCI+breaker combo devices, or plain GFCI (deadfront) devices. <S> Putting a GFCI+receptacle combo device on a circuit already GFCI protected is silly. <S> You are playing a "Yo Dawg" joke on yourself. <S> However, that guy is right if there is no GFCI <S> Protected sticker. <A> This is a weird "unwritten requirement" Other than 406.4(D)(2)(b)/(c), which govern the use of GFCIs as retrofits when no equipment grounding conductor is present, there actually is no direct Code requirement for "GFCI Protected" labeling on protected receptacles "downstream" of the GFCI. <S> Some inspectors, though, treat this as a 110.3(B) listing/instructions issue even though the White Book pages for UL category KCXS do not discuss this either, so you're safest labeling these. <S> However, there's a better option than those silly stickers The stickers, though, are not the greatest solution for labeling: they're not exactly coordinated with one's decor, and also have an annoying habit of falling off, which means they couldn't be a Code-required marking means as they would otherwise violate 110.21(B) <S> point 2 due to their lack of permanence: <S> (2) <S> The label shall be permanently affixed to the equipment or wiring method and shall not be handwritten. <S> As a result, a better choice here would be to use a permanently factory marked faceplate such as a P&S TP8GFI . <S> This way, the labeling won't come off or get peeled off, and it will fit better with the room's surroundings. <A> I don't know if it's current code, but my house has many outlets that are wired from remote GFCI breakers or receptacles (there are usually protected outlet terminals on GFCI sockets that allow chaining). <S> They are all marked with "GFCI PROTECTED OUTLET" labels, they often come with new receptacles. <A> At least according to the CSPC , and old version of code I could find, yes, it's required to label the protected outlets as "GCFI PROTECTED OUTLET". <S> I don't know what the instructions for the breakers you used are.
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Plus, part of code requires that you install devices according to the manufacturer's instructions, and the instructions for GFCI outlets, at least, require you to place stickers on protected outlets further on the circuit. Some very dull home inspectors will insist that nothing less than a GFCI receptacle will do, because he needs to see the TEST and RESET buttons.
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What to do with post with dry rot? We’re getting ready to paint and I was checking around my porch. There are three columns that support the roof over my porch. One of them had a decorative cross member that was dislodged because of dry rot at the location where the cross member was nailed to the column. I saw some dry rot there and started to excavate the rot. Here are some pictures of the bottom of the post. It has a small amount of concrete around the posts. The post goes into the concrete an inch or two deep. What should I do about this. I think that since there are two others columns supporting the porch roof this one with the rotted base didn’t really affect the general load bearing aspect. How should I fix this? Just add a lot of bondo, or wood filler, et. Take the post out and put in a new one? (I don’t want to do this bc I would need to take out all he decorative cross beams. Cut out the old wood base and graft on a nicer/new to replace the big sections that we cut out? <Q> Are you sure about the load bearing? <S> It may sag if you are not careful... <S> This is one example of a supplier of acrow jacks - many others... : https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/new-size-3-acrow-prop-2-4m-4m/ <A> The post should really be replaced, at the least add a new bottom utilizing a structural splice <S> The issue with the structural splice, the new post section will not be the same dimension as the original, and will be quite noticeable. <S> With a new post, it still may not be the same, but it will not be a noticeable as the splice. <S> Another way to do it is to either have a post custom cut to the size of the original. <S> Just a mention, it is wise to inspect the other posts at the very bottom. <S> The post pictured since it is in the concrete a bit, the others will be too? <S> The concern is the concrete or actually a course of brick pavers added after the posts were set, made a pocket to hold water which allowed the wood to rot most likely sooner rather than later. <A> Take as much of the rotten bits out. <S> Soak/spray 2 or 3 times the inside with an epoxy slow hardening paint,let it harden pref a few days,fill up the hole with a slow polyester selfmixing anchoring cartridge and similar wood <S> If you want to see the wood and not polyester, use the same wood 45 <S> °routed on the front. <S> Epoxy spray the parts that will be in contact with the resin. <S> Covering the wood with epoxy spray is because the polyester resin will be soaked up into the wood leaving the filler not to spec. <S> I use: <S> http://www.ramset.com.au/Resources/Website/Product/Detail/img714p31.jpg Make sure everything fits before mucking around with the poly <S> In the olden days i used old drained motor oil. <S> 30 years on, the cheap pine still looks ugly and smelly but in good shape in the Netherlands
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Anyway either replace the post completely or make a replacement bottom section and support the rest of the structure - acrow jacks work well for this type of thing.
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