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Spa Panel with 50a breaker I had a spa panel installed when the home was built for a future spa. Now we've found a spa and it requires 60a breaker at the panel. The panel has a 50a breaker in it. The panel inside the house at the other end has a 60a breaker. The wire between the panels is 6 AWG copper. I've read 4 gauge wire would be better for the 60a but also that the 6 gauge wire is enough and is what is required per the spa manual. Can I just swap the 50a breaker for a 60 at the spa panel and not have to install 4 gauge wire and a 60a spa panel? <Q> Your #6 wire is good to 60A. <S> (Actually it's good to 55A, but they don't make 55A breakers, so you get to round up to the next available size). <S> As such, there is nothing wrong with fitting a 60A supply breaker inside your main panel. <S> The ruling question is whether your spa subpanel's internal buses are able to handle 60A. <S> Did they put a 50A breaker there to protect a spa they never bought? <S> Or is it there to protect the subpanel itself? <S> Model numbers would help us research this. <S> Separately, if it is not attached to the house, it will need a main disconnect switch or shutoff. <S> So what's up with people telling you that you need to bump to #4 copper? <S> (which you would never do by the way, you'd use #2 aluminum if you needed that, which you don't). <S> They are probably up-in-arms about that because of the long distance, and voltage drop which results. <S> However, voltage drop is the victim of an "old wives' tale", cheerfully amplified by the sales departments at wire manufacturers. <S> The wrong info is to calculate voltage drop on breaker trip current, and that 3% is condemning. <S> Wrong and wrong. <S> Actually, calculate voltage drop on what the load actually is <S> (if you are at breaker trip current, you have bigger problems). <S> And 3% is a rosy ideal; depending on application, 6%, 8% (Code starts objecting at 8%) or much more are perfectly acceptable. <S> So you don't even need to think about voltage drop for this spa below 250 feet of run. <S> (That's not universal. <S> On some circuits it's a concern in as little as 100'). <S> Even above 250', I'm only saying find a piece of paper to run some numbers. <A> The #6cu is good for 60 AMPS so that will work. <S> The #4cu would be a waste of money. <S> You will need GFIC protection at one set of breakers. <A> You'll need to swap the spa box out to do this <S> Unfortunately, the loadcenter used for the HOME250SPA has 50A busses per this Square-D FAQ , which means it can't handle 60A (and even if it could, there's no such thing as a HOM260GFI to use with it for your application). <S> So, even though your wiring is good for 60A, you'll need to replace your spa box in one of two ways, as NEC 680.13 requires a local disconnect here: <S> Get a 60A spa panel (or assemble one) and a QO260 for your main panel (to replace the feeder breaker there). <S> If the feed to the spa box is 4-wire, this is what I would do, as this provides maximum flexibility later in the form of being able to put a subpanel in instead of an ordinary "spa box", or use spare slots on the spa box if it has them, even. <S> Replace the spa box with a 60A, non-fused, AC disconnect box and then use a QO260GFI in the main panel to provide GFCI protection to the hot tub. <S> This is best if your existing spa panel feeder is 3-wire, as the QO260GFI can't handle a mixed 120/240V load due to the fact <S> it lacks a load neutral connection .
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If it's a 50 AMP panel then you'll need to upgrade it to a 60 amp panel with a 60 AMP breaker. Usually the cheapest way to get a shutoff is to use a sub-panel with a main breaker (just using the breaker as a switch, not a breaker). And this is one of those applications where you have a lot of slack.
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Is 10/2 wire ok for a 125 foot run? Previous owner of house ran 10/2 to his outbuildings which are 125 feet. He has lights and would run power tools like a mitre or smaller air compressor. At the breaker is a 20 amp for each run. Is this ok? I won't be running anything other than what he had and I don't plan on doing anything more intense like awelder or IR heating. Just smaller power tools and lighting. Or should I re run with larger guage? <Q> Voltage drop is caused by the current you are actually pulling, not breaker trip rating. <S> Many people compute voltage drop based on trip, but that's silly - if you're actually pulling breaker trip current, you've got other problems. <S> And many people consider 3% a hard limit (a bit silly since the only number Code speaks of is 8%, but I think they are worried about installations where there might be three such drops consecutively). <S> Otherwise, you have loads of headroom and shouldn't give it any further thoght. <S> You cannot up-breaker to 30A because you have 15A or 20A outlets on that cable, and those need 20A breaker protection. <S> However, if you fit a subpanel in this location with 15-20A breakers for the outlets, you can then re-breaker the supply to 30A. <S> That is 60A@120V or 30A@240V. <S> Nobody's gonna worry about 3.25%. <S> If you fit two commonly available 15KVA transformers, you could deliver 14,400 watts, or double the above, at 0-1.64% drop With two less-commonly-available 20KVA transformers, you could deliver 18,000 watts at 0-1.31% drop. <S> This is most of a standard 100A (24KW) house service. <A> The 10-2 with a 20AMP breaker is ok. <S> Just curious, are the runs in conduit or direct buried cable? <A> It depends. <S> it sounds like each building gets its own 120v 20A circuit. <S> As long as there's a ground wire run back to the panel, this sounds OK. <S> 10 gauge is more than sufficient to combat the voltage drop. <S> The catch here is what kind of cable are we talking? <S> If this is UF cable, you're good. <S> If it's NM cable, not so much (even if it's in conduit). <S> Is it enough? <S> 20A (especially with power tools) is just barely enough to run one 15A tool and lights. <S> If you're looking to improve it, I would at least go to a 40A 240v subpanel and run 8 gauge THHN (3 runs + a ground, all in conduit) <S> and then you have ample power for anything you wish to do out there.
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The 10-2 could go to a 30 amp breaker but your standard outlets would limit that to the 20 AMP breaker. Anyway, if one were being silly like that, you are just within limits on that cable. If you are willing to fit a 10KVA transformer at the outbuilding, the circuit can deliver 7200W of 120/240V split-phase at 0-3.25% drop. Assuming 24A draw (the sensible max), you would have 0-5.25% voltage drop, which is concerning, but not serious.
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How might one trip a breaker from a GFCI outlet? Somewhat derivative of How can I trip a breaker from the outlet , how could someone relatively safely and quickly, with basic tools, trip a breaker at a GFCI outlet (relatively safely meaning not getting electrocuted or starting a fire)? If something conductive and grounded is touched to the line or a drop of water falls on it, it's just going to trip the outlet, but there will still be power to it, right? That's the point of the GFCI. Thanks for answering the question, as well as all advice to not and never do such a thing. <Q> You want to trip the overcurrent detector (breaker) serving a GFCI outlet. <S> No. <S> Don't do it. <S> What you're looking for is so similar to the other question that it really is a duplicate . <S> It is wrong for all the reasons that one is wrong (and not insane in a certain industrial setting for the reasons I describe in my answer there). <S> The presence of GFCI is irrelevant. <S> (though of course if you use the hare-brained scheme in the other question, you have a good chance of frying the GFCI's innards; it will cheerfully allow the overcurrent if balanced, but its detection circuit will fail before the breaker will). <S> Your parameters for "safety" are too narrow <S> You are ignoring the likelihood of failing a circuit due to the overload opening a wire connection, or worse, setting the stage for a future arc-fault problem that could burn down the house the next time you load the circuit within reason. <S> Then there's the matter of arc <S> flash <S> right there in your face . <S> Plug in a radio, and snap breakers <S> The way you solve this is by plugging in a radio and snapping breakers off until the radio stops. <S> Pretty simple. <S> If you don't have a radio, a vacuum cleaner will also do. <S> You could also plug in two 1500W heater-fans and wait 20 minutes. <S> That will trip any 15A or 20A circuit eventually . <S> But again you are risking the same kind of wiring failures discussed in "too narrow" above. <A> The GFCI section will trip if any current leaves the hot wire without returning on the neutral wire. <S> all of that current through the neutral wire. <S> Shorting the hot and neutral with a jumper wire inside a plug body, and plugging this into the outlet would suffice. <S> This should be relatively safe assuming the breaker works. <S> If you're not sure if the breaker works, (which I suspect might be the case, since why else would you want to do this?) <S> , then this might not be safe -- if the breaker fails to trip before the wire overheats, you might start a fire inside your walls. <S> I would especially not recommend doing this if you have breakers of a brand known to have tripping problems, such as FPE or Zinsco. <A> Honestly, the safest way (assuming this is a receptacle circuit) is to use a plug-in wiring tester with a GFCI test button. <S> Plug in, push button, done. <S> No safety issues or hassles. <S> And you really should own one as an electrical DIYer anyways. <A> Best method for homeowners would be to plug in something with noise ( Floor fan set on "high", vacuum cleaner, corded drill motor ) and firstly look at your panel breakers to see if the circuit you're interested in turning off is labeled... <S> If you see a "potential candidate" breaker, then turn that one off first. <S> If not, listen, turn one off and if your device stops making noise, go back to that device and make certain it's off. <S> Otherwise, turn the breaker back on, and check all the rest of them in the same above mentioned manner. <S> I also got somewhat hinted that you might be talking about testing the GFCI, but was not so sure... <S> But if that was it, every GFCI has a "test" and a "reset" button on them. <S> Push accordingly. <A> Tripping a GFCI receptacle disconnects the hot power conductor at the receptacle. <S> All GFCI receptacles have a TEST button which when pressed trips the GFCI receptacle. <S> Tripping a GFCI breaker disconnects the hot power at the breaker (in the panel) for the entire circuit. <S> There are devices called GFCI testers which when plugged into a GFCI protected circuit and activated will trip the GFCI breaker. <A> I suppose this answer more properly belongs on the linked question rather than here, but.. if you really want to trip the overcurrent breaker and not trip the GFCI outlet, then the only thing to do is introduce an overcurrent. <S> A dead short as proposed by answers in that related question is indeed an overcurrent, but it's also rather extreme. <S> The thing to know about overcurrent breakers, and fuses too, is that their response time is inversely proportional to the amount of overcurrent (as a first-order approximation). <S> Consult a manufacturer's data sheet for precise numbers, but here are some order-of-magnitude estimates to convey the idea. <S> A circuit breaker might carry 5% overload for minutes or even hours before tripping. <S> A 100% overload might be carried for several seconds, while a 300% overload might trip in several tens or hundreds of milliseconds. <S> Overcurrent protection exists to limit the damage to wiring and devices and to minimize the risk of fire, but it doesn't guarantee to prevent all overcurrent-related damages . <S> A decision to test a breaker in this way would have to select an overcurrent threshold by weighing time-to-trip against the potential for damage. <S> The technique would then be to introduce a load that can safely dissipate power until the breaker does trip, then (somehow?) <S> inspect for and repair any damages caused by the exercise.
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So, if you want to induce a trip on the breaker without tripping the GFCI outlet, you simply need to draw more current than the breaker's rating from the hot wire, and return The circuit breaker will trip if more current leaves the hot wire than its trip rating, such as 15 or 20A.
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Put table saw table on wheels I would like to put this table on 2 wheels so I can wheel it around and move it outside to my patio. I have these but not sure how to mount them on the legs. Edit: Thanks for the suggestions, here's what I did: <Q> 1) Cut a sheet of plywood so that all 4 legs fit on it.2) <S> Mount the wheels to the plywood.3) <S> Set the saw on top of the plywood.4) <S> Fasten the legs to the plywood so the saw won't fall off. <A> Just putting two casters (or four) on the table seems like a bad idea. <S> The table will be lopsided and even if you raise the other two legs, the table will still have a tendency to move when you're cutting large pieces. <S> If you're dead set on adding wheels, install four with locking features on a board and then secure the table to the board. <A> Attach two fairly large wheels near the bottom of two adjacent legs, but on the side of the leg. <S> The wheel should almost be touching the ground (1/8" or 1/16"). <S> When you want to move it, you simply tilt it towards the wheels until they touch and the weight is transferred. <S> You can then roll it. <S> Conceptually, it is like a dolly. <S> This might require additional bracing for the frame as those frames are built for vertical loads. <S> FYI, they do make products specifically to do this with a table saw. <S> If money is not that much of an issue, you might want to internet search "table saw stand with wheels" <A> The completed wheeled table saw.
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I suggest some "L" brackets and screws through the legs but other means could be devised.
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Diagnosing RCD tripping to decide whether to fix or junk basic electric oven Excuse any incorrect terminology in this question (I will correct if advised). I'm in the UK. I have a house with relatively new wiring (past 5 years) which has circuit breakers on the power and lighting circuits and two RCD devices (I think these are GFCI in the US) for the downstairs and upstairs circuits. I have a very basic built-in electric oven with fan that runs off a standard 13A plug. I unplugged the oven from the socket, moved the shelf in the housing that the oven sits on to make room for something else. I then plugged the oven back into its original socket (two outlet, dual pole, switched shared with microwave). When I switched on the thermostat on the oven, it tripped the "downstairs" RCD. Just switching on the lamp or the fan did not trip the RCD. I looked at the wiring in the plug and the earth wire looked to be just a few strands of copper. I stripped insulation and trimmed and refitted all three wires (E,L,N) to the plug, plugged the device in, switched on the element and thermostat and no RCD tripping. Hooray! The device has been ok for about two weeks then yesterday it tripped the RCD after running at 180C for 15 minutes. Now, the device is probably faulty in some way but I am concerned that this is some "cumulative" effect and that there is a "baseline" current drain happening from other devices and the oven is just adding to that and causing the RCD to trip. Is there some "plug in" tester that provides a standard UK plug and socket that can be inserted between the device and the power outlet where I can check any current drain for every device in my house? I'm trying to isolate the problem to the oven - if indeed that is the only source of the problem. I'm willing to pay £30 for such a device. Is there any link to a systematic check I can perform on the oven if the current drain problem is isolated to that? I'm trying to decide whether there is an easy diagnosis / fix I can achieve for under £50 plus some time investment and decide whether to get the oven serviced or to junk it and buy a replacement. I chose £50 as the target expenditure as that is the charge for a call out plus half hour work around here. Also if it is possible to "residual current" test all devices that will unearth other problems and I can replace faulty devices or make me sleep better. I don't want to replace the oven if the problem is (partly) somewhere else and replacing the oven doesn't actually fix the RCD trip. <Q> Yes. <S> Get an extension cord <S> (I assume they are all 3-prong in the UK). <S> Slice down the edge of the cable and remove the outer sheath for about a foot. <S> Don't cut into any of the insulation on the individual wires (though if you nick ground's insulation, don't worry about it). <S> Bind <S> the hot and neutral (brown and blue) wires tightly together with electrical tape. <S> Now get a clamp ammeter and clamp the hot/neutral bundle. <S> The amp reading should be zero. <S> If that is not zero, that is a ground fault, which explains the RCD trip. <S> Now clamp the ground wire. <S> The reading should be zero. <S> If it is not zero and the same number, you have an internal ground fault that has been caught by the ground wire. <S> If the non-zero figure on the conductors isn't accounted for by the figure on the ground, you have current leaking in a third direction. <S> Either leakage implies a problem with the oven. <S> Try giving it a good clean, especially in the wiring areas. <A> There are a variety of test. <S> The simplest and cheapest is to test for continuity between the earth/chassis of the oven and the live/neutral. <S> This you can do with any cheap multimeter. <S> However it won't reveal groundfaults that only reveal themselves under high voltage which breaks down the insulation. <S> Or you can DIY a short extension cord which runs the earth wire separately and then use a current clamp meter around both the neutral and live (but not earth) to measure how much leakage current there is under normal operation. <S> This is essentially the same test as the continuity test above but the mega-ohm meter will use high voltage to ensure there is no dielectric breakdown under high voltage conditions. <S> Any electrician will be able to do the first two tests though the second requires a bit of prep. <S> But the mega-ohm meter is rather specialized. <A> I would re-examine the plug. <S> It gave you problems before and maybe the insulation and conductors are in worse shape than you thought. <S> Next, try plugging the oven into a different outlet and see if the problem travels to the new outlet. <S> You stated that it runs off a standard 13Amp outlet, not actually sure what that is as I'm in the U.S.A.
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The next step up is using a megaOhm meter that is designed to test for these faults in appliances.
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Do n95 masks provide ANY protection against asbestos? I think you can read between the lines here. i had on a typical n95 mask while doing a little demo. I didn't have raised suspicions about there being asbestos in the walls, as i already researched my home's primary wall material prior and it's not prone to the stuff. But, after removing a few SF of board i noticed a different breed, and the label is "national gypsum company" "fireproof GYPSUM W..." label cuts off. It's the fireproof part that raised my red flag. I bagged what i took off, cleaned the area, and am sending a sample off to a lab for testing. My throat was a bit dry after the work. don't know if i'm overthinking, but in googling around, pretty much the only thing people will tell you is to not use n95 for asbestos. Great and all, but my question is whether n95 provides ANY protection? Looking at the micron sizes of asbestos and the filter, it would seem it should filter them, so is it catching 95% and obviously for this hazardous material you want that extra 5% covered, or do these fibers penetrate n95 material? <Q> It's asbestos, not kryptonite <S> It's not that toxic, or it would have never attained its status as a popular material in the first place. <S> Yes, it turns out to have been a lung-tissue irritant and carcinogen <S> (don't look now: so is fiberglass), but it's so subtle it took 50 years to figure it out, and <S> even then it only was seen in career daily occupational exposure. <S> The only reason there's any hysteria at all about asbestos is the lawyer feeding frenzy caused by the existence of trust funds to settle cases: <S> the lawyers are bombing all advertising media trying to find people who will let them take 1/3 contingency fee for easy cases on well-trod ground. <S> Meanwhile you have the government trying to communicate to employers (read: <S> cheap and old fashioned) and off-the-curb, never-see-em-again day-labor employees (read: non-English speakers) <S> how to protect themselves from daily, career-long occupational exposure to asbestos, so we don't get any new cases. <S> Their advice is to use tip-top gear, because that adds up when you do it everyday for years. <S> In that context, true, you want better than N95, but the way they communicate that to cheap employers is "N95 masks don't work". <S> Which is not true at all, in your incidental case. <S> You are much better off having used that mask, mainly due to other risks. <S> So if you want to be part of the mesothelioma moral panic , just keep in mind <S> negative thoughts are far more carcinogenic than whatever got through that mask. <S> One other thing: <S> Gypsum is fireproof. <S> Drywall is gypsum and drywall is used for firestops. <A> According to CAL/OSHA the N-95 does not provide protection against asbestos. <S> https://www.dir.ca.gov/dosh/dosh_publications/N95-mask-questions.pdf <S> Q: What is an N95 mask? <S> A: An N95 mask is a disposable filtering facepiece respirator with two straps. <S> The “N” designation means the mask is not resistant to the effects of oil mists. <S> For instruction on using filtering facepieces, see Using Disposable Respirators in English and Spanish. <A> Just understand, asbestos is not the only material that deserves the reputation for generating lung cancer. <S> Believe it or not, repeated exposure to Pottery dust particles is another good one for causing cancer after 15-25years. <S> The problem has nothing to do with the asbestos material... <S> it's the size of dust particles that you should worry about. <S> Any dust particle below a certain size that can become embedded into lung tissue potentially can cause lung irritation and this irritation turn cancerous.
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When worn properly (with the mask making a tight seal with the user’s face), it can protect against hazardous airborne particles. N95 masks do not protect against gases, vapors or asbestos, and they do not provide oxygen.
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Wood glue to reinforce screw holes in an oak frame? This is for load-bearing bronze screws in an oak frame, carrying a heavy oak door. Four of the screws were removed momentarily for maintenance work. Two of the screw holes may have been stripped slightly when the screws were around 3/4 of their length out of the frame. A dowel would not be an option at this stage, because that would mean undoing some of the maintenance work. I was thinking of several options: Just reuse the screw holes, even if some are partially stripped. Apply wood glue alone to reinforce the inner surface of the screw holes. The toothpick method. Put in a toothpick with wood glue into the screw holes, leave to dry partially, then reinsert wood screws. I was unsure what this last method would do to the 3/4 of the threads that are still viable. Does it risk damaging the unstripped threads, or would it tighten and secure the threads in situ? Which option would be best? <Q> With hard wood I use toothpicks as they are hard, match sticks with the head cut off work will work <S> but I use those on soft wood like pine. <S> I squirt the wood glue in push in however many <S> I think I need then wipe the excess and insert the screws <A> I would go for the dowel method. <S> Support the door, move that face of the hinge out of the way, drill, and fit dowel with glue. <S> Let dry, pilot drill and then use good screws. <A> Out of the three listed options I would use #3 as it is closest to the dowel method. <S> I would also use longer screws if possible so that if only part of the hole is stripped the extra length can get more grip. <A> Toothpicks. <S> As I've previously answered here Slightly different question, so not a duplicate. <S> But answer is the same. <A> I've occasionally seen toothpick style repairs and never been highly impressed with them. <S> It kinda works, and it's cheap and easy, but the wood a toothpick is made of is nothing like your oak base material. <S> Even with wood glue to help hold it in place the toothpick wood is still soft. <S> A technique I've recently read about, but haven't yet tried myself, is to drill the hole oversize and fill it with epoxy. <S> Insert the screw, clamp until the epoxy sets, and it'll be stronger than the original wood. <S> If you expect to need to remove the screw in the future, apply a light coat of wax before inserting it. <S> If the screw is epoxied without wax and must be removed in the future all is not lost. <S> It can be heated with a soldering iron or other source until the epoxy softens and then the screw can be wound out in the usual way. <S> Apparently this technique is commonly used in the marine world. <S> The epoxy vendor West System has a nice write-up at their web site . <A> Epoxy instead of wood glue irrespective of any hole filling method you use. <S> If this is for oak door hinges, I find it hard to understand why you cannot dowel? <S> (The dowels are hidden underneath the hinge plates).
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I have used tooth picks and matches with glue for many years.
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AC is dead, should we open the windows to release the heat and humidity? Live in Central Texas where the temp is in the upper 90's, low 100's. My AC went so I had to put a single room AC unit for my Master bedroom and bath. Square footage for coverage is 600 sq. feet. Well, it's humid in the rest of the house and my Mother keeps reminding me not to open the windows because it will develop mold. Well, I have a dehumidifier floating from living room to kitchen. Is it safe to open the windows at night to release the heat in the house? <Q> I have no idea about the climate in Texas. <S> Is it tropic/ rainforest <S> -like? <S> I live in Germany and <S> we have such temperature days in summer, too. <S> We do not have an air condition at all (not because of money, its not typical). <S> Mode of operation is: during the day, lower the blind, to keep the sun out. <S> We don’t have any problems with mold by this. <S> If we have get mold, then it is typically in winter because walls are cool and humid air condenses, especially behind furniture positioned on walls to the outside. <A> The answer is: it's complicated. <S> You want to manage both humidity and heat, and sometimes the needs of the two conflict. <S> (I'll assume that less of each is better, i.e. it isn't winter outside.) <S> So, open up in the evening, close up in the morning. <S> Humidity is more complicated, because there's moisture in your home's air, but perhaps more moisture in its furnishings (unfinished wood, plaster and "dry"wall, rugs, etc). <S> The "relative humidity" measurement most commonly cited <S> (e.g. 80%, 20%) depends on temperature; if you warm some air up, its relative humidity level will go down, even though the amount of moisture in the air hasn't changed. <S> To measure the absolute amount of humidity in air you measure its "dew point", or the temperature at which, if you cooled the air, the relative humidity would hit 100% and you'd get fog or dew. <S> Why does this matter? <S> Well, as an extreme example, say it's hot and dry in your house, and cool and foggy outside <S> ; you may not want to ventilate, as you'll pull all that moisture into your house; yes, it'll be cooler, but it may end up feeling warmer and muggier. <S> So, if it's cool and dry outside, ventilate; if it's hot and humid outside, don't. <S> If it's mixed outside, you'll need to think about that humidity level, and whether ventilating will dry out the house, or just add moisture. <S> In all of this, having fans helps, and most specifically a whole house fan. <S> Such a fan takes heat from high in the living spaces (where it'll be warmer) and pulls it out, to be replaced by (hopefully cooler and/or drier) air from outside. <S> These work best in areas where it gets cool and (relatively) dry at night, but they can be useful elsewhere. <A> In non air conditioned buildings in Texas in the 1950s and 60s we kept the screened windows open day and night. <S> When we got a/c window units in the 1950s we still kept the windows open in the parts of the house that were not served by an a/c. <S> Human bodies give off a lot of moisture from sweating and in exhaled air. <S> Cooking, bathing and other domestic activities produce heat and moisture. <S> Even if the humidity is moderately high outside it will be even higher indoors with the windows shut. <S> Keep the windows open in the un-air-conditioned part of the house. <S> If you keep the windows open to allow air exchange, then you can do away with the dehumidifier. <S> The dehumidifier is removing moisture from the air, but it is generating a lot of heat which is raising the temperature of the rooms. <S> One activity that produces both heat and moisture is boiling water in an open pot, like a lot of people do to cook pasta. <S> If you cook pasta try using a minimum of water, reduced burner output to the minimum to achieve boiling, and cover the pot. <S> Take showers with the minimum water temperature that is comfortable and make the showers as brief as practical. <S> EDIT Get more window units to air condition the remainder of the house. <A> This is a little off the beaten track, but within the confines of the question. <S> Besides having a AC system, one of the very best things you can do is to invest in a whole house fan. <S> Having one of these will solve a whole lot of heat problems.. <S> Depending upon the design of your home, a whole house fan mostly ( but not always ) during the day and especially at night, keep your entire house cool. <S> If your home has an attic, one of the reasons it's hot is because of heat buildup. <S> https://youtu.be/CQZmWIYsyDU . <S> Check this out. <S> I am not advocating any brand over another, but rather showing you an idea for more choices of cooling. <S> Never run AC and whole house fans simultaneously. <A> Opening at night isn't a good choice, because at night/early morning humidity rate are peacking, best time to change air, in my opinion, is early evening (19-21): outer temperature start falling and humidity isn't as high as in the morning. <S> If you have a skylight in your attic, remember open it: hot air in attic will start a quite stong draft giving a good breeze across all house. <S> Just a door at ground floor and skylight will make a good breeze in all house, at least in my house (100 m^2)
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Heat is actually pretty easy: if it's cooler out than in, then you want to increase ventilation to get the heat out of your house. At night, open windows (as soon as felt temperature outside gets lower than it is inside).
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Can I hang shelves on painted walls without using penetrating fasteners? I live in a 40 m2 apartment with 2 cats. I was thinking maybe I can add shelves to the walls without drilling anything. Do you think that sticking shelves can whitsand the weight of a 6kg and 4 kg cats? Have you done that before? I want to go as high as 2 meters. <Q> The bond will fail at the weakest point in the layers between your shelf and the actual structure of the wall. <S> Many people fail to account for the fact that paint really isn't intended to be subject to those kinds of forces and are surprised when it all peels off. <S> I predict that you'll end up with shelves fallen to the floor with the paint peeled off the wall and still stuck to the back of the shelves. <S> It's far easier to repair the holes from a few neat screws than it would be to repair the unknown level of damage which may occur when your shelves start pulling layers off the wall in unexpected ways. <S> the beasties actually weigh. <A> I tried it using double sided tape from 3M. <S> It held for a while but eventually failed due to the cats jumping up and landing on them. <S> Once the double sided tape pulled away from the wall, it did more damage than if I had just screwed a bracket into the wall for the shelves. <S> Good luck. <S> F.Y.I. Cats don't always land on their feet. <A> To add to other answers, consider that when a 6kg animal lands or jumps on a shelf, the force can be double or more than their mass, and include sideways vector forces too (I asked a cat.) <S> Get shelf brackets, and try to locate a stud, at least one, to attach to. <S> Set thin shims under the front part on the floor so the unit leans into the wall slightly. <S> It’ll be less likely to fall over that way. <S> Again, double sided tape or surface gluing won’t last for long.
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If you can’t screw into the walls no matter how minimally invasive, consider a storage unit that sits on the floor, one that looks like a group of geometric shapes (boxes.) Having more than a handful of cats myself, I know how active the little fur-balls can be - and those shelves will end up seeing dynamic loads far in excess of the 4-6kg
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How to fix leaking bathroom sink drain where PVC meets ABS connection? My bathroom sink drain began leaking recently. The PVC connection that meets the ABS connection is the culprit. See picture with red arrow below. After taking everything apart and cleaning the parts, I discovered the ABS threads look to be dented (see picture). I suspect the leak occurs because the tapered gasket cannot form a water tight seal where it meets this dent. How do I fix this? Can a material of some kind be added to fix the dent, but still allow the threads to work? Do I have to replace the ABS thread connection entirely? I'm not sure how to do this exactly since I believe ABS connections are cemented. Guidance is appreciated if this is my only option. Other? It looks like there may be a glue type residue on the ABS threads. I wonder if there was once glue of some kind that broke down over time and caused the leak now. I can't imagine why this connection would have sealed without some kind of other stop gap measure in place to account for the dent. <Q> Try @JACK solution of cutting off bad threads. <S> Tighten the fitting, hand tight is not enough. <S> If that doesn't work, the fitting is toast. <S> I would cut it off and glue a new one on, then use the proper slip-joint assembly with no glue, goop, caulk, goo, or any other such nonsense that is unlikely to work. <S> You have a couple problems though. <S> If you cut it off (even if you cut carefully, which you should) there will be very little pipe remaining outside of the wall. <S> That's OK though, glue the new (1 1/2" male adapter) to whatever is left <S> and it will be fine. <S> Use abs glue <S> if you get an ABS fitting, use universal or multi purpose glue if your new fitting happens to be PVC. <S> The PVC trap arm may end up being too short after you shorten the wall pipe (it depends how much was left inserted into the wall pipe). <S> If so, you'll need a new P-Trap. <A> I would use, and have used, a sealer designed for plumbing systems that is designed not to harden and stays sticky - works a treat. <S> I think it is called plumber <S> ’s mait <S> But it sticks to your fingers as well <S> ... seal the joints with it <S> and you don’t have to tighten the threads much. <S> Think about how the joint works so you don’t apply too much ie work out where it is most effectively applied. <A> I'm guessing you're going to get a few opinions on this <S> so I'll start out by saying what I'd try. <S> You might be able to do it with a hack saw blade. <S> Then I'd chamfer the inside edge with some emery paper or a round file until your tapered gasket fit in there. <S> You might still have to add a little caulk between the fitting and the gasket depending on how well you smoothed out the fitting <S> but at least your threads would still work. <A> Here are several ideas that came to mind. <S> (attempt to) Repair the threads Heat will soften the black ABS so you could improve its shape, but it's probably not realistic to hope for sealing with this alone. <S> Augment with plumber's putty Roll <S> a rope of putty with thickness similar to the gasket and wrap it around the PVC so that it contacts before the gasket. <S> Maybe this will do the job, especially if you can at least partially re-shape <S> the ABS so the dent/gap is smaller. <S> Alternate connection <S> A 1-1/2 PVC female adapter from the Big Box Sprinkler Department will seal against the threads rather than the face of the ABS male adapter. <S> Brush the threads with pipe joint compound, install the female adapter, then figure out how to adapt from the PVC slip joint to the PVC drain tube. <S> I'm not sure whether the OD is the same such that the drain tube could be cemented directly to the female adapter.. <S> Replace the ABS fitting <S> You're right, this is solvent welded to the pipe in the wall. <S> It can be removed with abrasives such as a sanding drum on a rotary tool ("Dremel"). <S> The plastic will wear away quickly with a coarse grit <S> but it'll be tedious because of the difficult access. <S> Depending on how the vanity is attached it may be worth the time to move the cabinet aside -- with good access that original fitting might be sanded away in under half an hour.
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I'd get one of those rotary tools with a cut off disk and start cutting right where the dent ends and cut all the way around the circumference of the fitting. You might also try a different style slip-joint washer (they come in plastic or rubber).
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What can I do with old locks? I replaced my doorknob locks and deadbolts when moving into my new house. I have the original locks still, but don't know what to do with them. It seems unlikely that anyone would want to use them, especially as part of a private sale or exchange as they wouldn't be able to trust that I don't have a copy of the key. Similarly, I wouldn't expect a donation center like Goodwill to accept them either. However, they're still useful locks and seem like something too valuable to simply discard. What is typically done with the previous locks after replacing them? <Q> Make sure they are complete <S> Both knobs, core assembly, latches <S> (latches are not standard/universal), and the screws . <S> The screws that hold the latch on are not nearly as important, and one can subsitute a plain old wood screw or drywall screw. <S> Worn out ones, straight into recycle bin or trash <S> , it is metal, they will separate it out with magnets or eddy currents. <S> Once I verify it is complete, I throw each knob or deadbolt (complete) into a gallon Ziploc and then throw the Ziplocs into a box. <S> And then, the keys . <S> If you have enough keys, throw one in each Ziploc. <S> Then the kaboodle either goes on eBay or to the Habitat for Humanity store. <S> Because that's where people go when they want lock sets, not Goodwill. <S> Also Goodwill won't get that this is a set, HfH will. <A> If the cosmetic and mechanical condition is good, go ahead and sell or donate the locks. <S> You're over-estimating the risk. <S> Plenty of buyers don't care that you might retain a key to the locks because you won't easily discover where the buyer eventually uses the lock. <S> Further, a buyer might have these locks re-keyed for his security or simply to match other locks he already has. <S> Or, donate them for science. <A> It's pretty cheap to have them re-keyed. <S> Many do <S> it yourselfer's <S> can probably re-key them themselves. <A> There is scrap value to them, when all else fails.
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Give the locks to an inquisitive relative or neighbor kid who might like to tear them apart, see how they work, take a swing at re-keying them himself, etc. You could sell them on ebay or yes, give them to Good Will.
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I need to pressurize a room and I'm kind of at a loss as to how to do it, hoping someone out there might have some advice I'm setting up a small packaging operation for edible products for pets. There are certain government standards we have to hit to be able to do this. The actual packaging takes place in a 420 sq ft room with 12 ft ceilings. It's all well sealed with a single door for entry and exit, that is itself pretty well sealed when closed. In order to pass inspection we need to be able to demonstrate that the room is pressurized. There isn't a specific differential we need to maintain, we just need to be able to pass a smoke test at the door. The air needs to be filtered as well. It doesn't even have to be HEPA, just filtered. Pretty much I just need to be able to blow filtered air through the wall from the main area into this packaging room and get it nicely pressurized. I spoke with one engineer who said "You don't need me for that, just get whatever you want and install it". He was pretty curt. I've been looking around and all I can find are inline duct fans for grow-ops (that sound like jet engines) and little bathroom fans. What's my best bet for solving this problem? I know there isn't much to worry about in terms of installation, I'm just trying to avoid buying and installing something only to discover it's completely inadequate. Thanks! <Q> It depends if you're looking for a "proper" solution or any workable solution, and your tolerance to noise. <S> Common sources of these fans: -Air purifiers (also filters the air for you), 100-600CFM depending on what you get, often cheap on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. <S> Might be too small. <S> ~25-200W. Also try "air scrubbers", available with higher CFMs like furnace blowers. <S> -Furnace blowers or old furnaces (cut the furnace part off, leave it, or just build a box) and filter, 2000-6000CFM. <S> ~300-1000W. Usually has a few speeds. <S> Also try "air makeup unit". <S> Not toooo loud. <S> -Bathroom fans. <S> Broan LoSone (pretty big)(300cfm) ~250W, Costco has some real quiet ones ~100cfm <S> last I checked ~50W. <S> -Air mover blowers for drying floors or whatnot (need to rig a filter onto this), pretty cheap at Home Depot <S> ~100-300w. <S> -Range hood fans - get a "chimmney style" one which will likely be squirrel cage and replace the grease catch filters with a furnace filter. <S> Often cheap on Craigslist etc. <S> ~200-400W. <S> -Hack a filter into a portable air conditioner or salvage the fan(take the "condenser" fan) -Search Craigslist for words like "fan" or "blower" and find something that looks like it takes at least a few hundred watts Crappy options:-Box fans with furnace filters on them-Induced draft blowers, small squirrel cage blowers, <S> pressure blowers etc etc are a little too small for the room <S> I think <S> Expensive options: <S> -Proper air handler with filter-in line duct fans <S> (unusually expensive for some reason) <S> Before you commit to installing something, try an experiment first: <S> Tape up and seal the fan with filter rigged on to one of the doors with plastic or something, and make sure the plastic bulges out significantly. <A> How about a bathroom fan, installed in a different room <S> , that vents into this room. <S> The room can be VERY small, and can house filters. <A> Look harder? <S> One example: A blower intended for inflating greenhouse plastic (blown between two plastic film layers to inflate them) on the small, but probably quite adequate, end. <S> From a regular greenhouse supplier, presumably. <S> Those are good at making static pressure, (usually of squirrel-cage design, not an axial fan, which don't do as well moving air against pressure) designed to run continuously, and fairly low power draw and noise level. <S> Preferably (both kinds are made) a squirrel cage design. <S> Or the "expensive but prone to last" version would be a commercial range hood fan, but I'm thinking that would be overkill.
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It looks like filtering is one of your requirements, so you'll probably want to use a squirrel cage type fan, which is capable of developing the requisite pressure to push air past a filter. Another example: On the "cheap but prone to fail" side, a home kitchen range hood fan.
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how to deter children from opening an interior door I have extensive work being done in one of the rooms in the house. For their own safety, I would like to keep curious 3-to-6-year-olds out of that room. The door to the room has no lock, and opens inward into the room. I will of course explain to the children not to go there, and put appropriate incentives for compliance. However, I do not expect this to be 100% effective, and so am looking for a mechanical solution as well. Note that the solution need not be 100% effective. For example, if a child needs to fetch a chair to stand upon to unlock the door, that is acceptable. I just want something to protect from impulsive "I am just going to take a small peek, I promise." Because this is only for a couple of weeks, I do not want to install a lock. Ideally I would like not to have to repaint the area either. <Q> I think the most simple solution is this installed close to the ceiling: <S> Assuming the surrounding paint is white, this really shouldn't require painting since it's one small hole <S> and you could just use white wood filler to make the holes disappear once removed. <A> How about a small flip lock installed at the top of the door? <S> The kids can't reach it and it mounts into the frame with two small screws. <S> here is a picture of one you can pick up at Walmart for about 6 bucks. <S> Works on right or left opening doors. <A> After thinking a bit I found two methods that do not require buying specialized hardware, and cause no damage to the door: 1) <S> Close the door, then unscrew and hide the door handle <A> Just spend $15 on a cheap privacy knob.
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You can use the provided pin key to open the door. If you go with the same brand as is on there now (so it mates with the bolt latch), it's a 60 second install. Tie the door handle to a heavy weight (e.g. a full bucket) that children cannot move 2)
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Can I connect 12 gauge wire to 18 gauge wire for an outdoor light post and plug? I am replacing a front yard light post that has a GFCI outlet attatched.The old post has 12 gauge wire connected from the house thru the post and outlet to the the light.The new post is prewired with 18 gauge wire and also includes a GFCI outlet.Can I connect the old 12 gauge to the new prewired 18 gauge?there is a 20 amp circuit breaker.What is ETL? <Q> This is exactly the same as almost every light fixtures in your home mfg’s regularly use smaller wires because the load is limited. <S> Note they have a maximum wattage listed for the light(s) when used according to the manufacturers instruction it is safe. <A> Yes, that's perfectly fine. <S> The reason is that the appliance is supplied this way, and it is listed by a competent NRTL , meaning that it follows (most likely UL's) rules for internal construction. <S> The rules inside equipment are different than the rules for in-wall wiring. <S> For instance wiring inside equipment can exceed 90C if its insulation is rated for that, and if that won't damage the appliance. <S> You can bet that part of the ETL testing included throwing 20A of load on that receptacle. <S> If you saw this in equipment that lacked an NRTL stamp and file number, then you'd want to take a hard look at it, and possibly a hard look at your purchasing practices. <S> Keep in mind that NRTL listing is required for most parts of your mains electrical system (NEC 110.2 requires the local AHJ approve the equipment, and any sane AHJ will defer to the NRTLs.) <S> Luminaires are not one of them, however a thing can't have a GFCI receptacle and still claim to be a luminaire. <A> The GFCI outlet needs to be connected to the #12 wire. <S> If the #18 is a separate run up to the light, then you'd have to pigtail a piece of #12 from the outlet and the #18 to the incoming #12. <S> The #18 wires could be connected to the load side of the GFCI.
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The fixture is a listed device and manufacturers don’t have the same limitations for the wiring that electrical wiring in your home has. YES you can connect the 12 AWG wire to your light pole fixture. So yes this is normal for a fixture.
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Old drain clogged with a lot of ceiling spackle The man that fixed the ceiling over our tub cleaned his tools, pan, buckets in the little tiny bathroom sink. Now the drain is clogged and the area below is too small for my husband to get into. Because it was left empty so long the stuff in the sink has really hardened. My question is - Is there some type of something that I can put in it that won't cause more damage won't cause an explosion won't kill the man who lives in the basement. <Q> There's a good chance the clog is in the trap right under the sink. <S> Someone should try to remove it and clean it out. <S> I'm not sure any of the drain cleaners would work on spackle. <S> Good luck. <A> Lye is drain cleaner. <S> Spackle is gypsum (calcium sulfate) and glue. <S> Lye will definitely dissolve glue and that might break up the gympsum enough to flush it down. <S> I was not sure about calcium sulfate - it is pretty unreactive. <S> I am still not sure <S> but I found a patent for clearing gypsum deposits off mining equipment using sodium hydroxide where they said the gypsum turned to paste that could be carried off by water. <S> https://patents.google.com/patent/US3240627A/en <S> I would give the lye a try. <S> If no good, flush the lye out before you monkey with the plumbing and then try taking the uBend off and see if that is where the clog is. <S> You can throw the old one out and get another one. <S> If your husband does not fit under there maybe you do. <S> If neither of you fit, hire a plumber. <A> To follow up Willk's post, you could also try brick acid (hydrochloric acid). <S> The acid will dissolve the calcium sulphate†, and that might break up the glue enough to flush it down. <S> Do not mix lye and brick acid <S> They will combine violently, and potentially cause a lot of damage. <S> If you want to try one and then the other, make sure to wash the first away with copious quantities of water before trying the second. <S> (A sequence may be quite effective though. <S> The lye destroys the glue, and the acid destroys the gypsum). <S> † <S> I'm British. <S> I spell sulphate with ph.
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You could try lye (sodium hydroxide). If it's not the trap, get a cheap drain snake and run it down the drain with the trap off.
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Fan is turning on air conditioner but no air movement A few weeks ago I changed the outside unit's starting capacitor and that got the fan on that unit to rotate and the air conditioning on the enclosed back porch started working. Today I came home and the main part of the house was hot. I turned down the thermostat in that zone but I still didn't feel any air blowing out of the registers. I changed all the air filters but still didn't feel any suction at the filter housing or any air coming out of the register. I had my wife turn on the air conditioning via the thermostat while I was downstairs listening at the inside unit. I heard a sound like a refrigerator or dehumidifier kicking in and then a few seconds later I heard the sound of a fan starting up. I removed the cover over the fan and taped the safety switch and turned on the air conditioning and I can definitely see the squirrel cage fan running and it looks and sounds normal. For what it's worth the fan on the outside unit for this zone seems to be spinning normally as well. How on earth can I not feel any air coming out of the registers or feel any suction at the air return? The only thing I can figure out is that the fan seems to be running normally, but is actually at a lower speed than normal. It sure looks normal. I don't see any gaping holes in the ductwork or anything. I've changed the fan on my furnace in a previous house a few years ago, so I'm somewhat familiar with what they should sound like. The inside unit is a York affinity 9.V series Here's a video of the fan running. <Q> That video sure looks like rotation is backwards [it should be spinning clockwise as seen based on the scroll/label], but... could be strobe effect from camera rate? <S> I can't think of how to switch rotation on an ac motor run by a simple contactor but <S> by rewiring the motor leads - racoons aren't that clever [yet]. <S> Another option is your dampers used to balance distribution out of the air handler came loose and the butterfly is closed. <S> If it is in fact running backwards, then does it use some solid state controller [pwm, or other variable speed type drive]? <S> That would be the culprit. <A> If your main Squirrel cage blower for your vents is spinning, ( blowing air ) you should feel air. <A> In my case the fan started working normally after I turned off my AC for 24 hours or so. <S> My problem was that my coolant was leaking out, causing my coils to ice up. <S> The iced up coils blocked air from flowing through the system. <S> Hence my fan was spinning <S> but no air was recirculating.
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If it's fooling us, then look at ductwork: if you have flex duct which had an internal collapse, air flow could be blocked.
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Is a 3 way switch required at the stairs to a basement with no other entryway? Is a 3 way switch required at the stairs to a basement with no other entryway? We were given a violation for not having a 3 way switch in a basement with no entryway. <Q> Stairway Lighting is Required, with light switches at top and bottom of the stairway if the stairs encompass more than three stair treads (Canada) or six stair treads (U.S.). <A> <A> You can have a 24x7 light or a day/night light if there is natural light. <S> Also, the lights can be on a motion sensor, but the sensors must be arranged competently to see approaching stair users, which is harder than you think. <A> Do what common sense would engage yourself to do. <S> Codes are written with safety in mind, but there are not capable of covering every single situation. <S> If it were my place, and there was the slightest chance where a extra light switch could prevent an injury, I would make certain there was another switch. <S> Falling down multiple stairs can be hazardous to your health. <S> Especially in the DARK.
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I do not know the codes but I would guess that if you are in the basement during the day and you stay there until night time, then they want you to be able to turn on the lights for the stairs as a safety concern. Nowhere is it written that the lights must be switched at all.
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Portable AC not getting ride of condensate I have a portable AC (LG lp1015wnr) which does not evaporate the condensate. It doesn't matter if it is in Dry or Cool mode. In both modes the water is drained from the drain pipe at the same rate. ------------Edit (Further explanation)--------- The AC has two drains, on in the middle and one on the bottom. Also two modes of working. Dry mode: Also know as dehumidifier mode. When the AC works in this mode, the condensate should be drained from the middle drain pipe (Which is a normal way of getting the water out). Cool mode: In this mode, the AC vaporizes the condensate, so there should not be any water coming out of the middle drain. Only when the humidity level is high, the left over condensate which is not vaporized, goes down to the pan, which can be drained from the bottom of the AC. When my AC is working in the cool mode, I see a lot of water running from the middle drain and I have to put a bucket under it. I expect the AC to vaporize that water and have the left over on the bottom pan, but as I explain, it is not happening. The question is why is this happening? Do I have to block the middle drain? <Q> In cool or dehumidifier mode if you don’t have a pump you will have to dump the condensate based on your humidity, it is a basic function of cooling that there will be moisture to get rid of. <S> Don’t believe me put a glass full of ice water on a table with enough ice to last 15 minutes, now look at the ring of water at the base of the glass. <S> If you want the system to cool there WILL be water to get rid of times a hundred or even 10 thousand depending on the size or amount of cooling and humidity. <S> In a high humidity zone the amount of condensate or water you need to get rid of can be the same. <S> It is normal and expected with cooling or dehumidification. <A> An air conditioner works by making one stream of air (in and out) cold - and another stream of air (in and out) hot. <S> You always get condensation on the cold side coils. <S> That can work OK on a dry day. <S> However, if the day is quite humid, it may not be able to evaporate all of it . <S> Then it winds up in the condensate tank, and you must empty it. <S> That does not mean the A/C is broken. <S> It means the day is humid. <S> It helps if you have a 2-pipe portable air conditioner, which takes the "to be made hot" air from outside, and ejects it to outside. <S> But if you have a 1-pipe portable air conditioner, then it's taking the "to be made hot" air from inside . <S> That has to be replaced by air from outside coming in through cracks and leaks -- and that air is hot and humid. <S> So your 1-pipe air conditioner is constantly dragging in new hot, humid air, and that's where all the water is coming from. <S> If it has a 2-pipe feature, use it . <A> Air-conditioning units of all kinds are supposed to do 2 jobs, cool the air and remove humidity. <S> If the unit is cooling properly, then there is water (condensate) being produced which has to be drained somewhere. <S> If there is no condensate being produced then the A/C unit is not functioning correctly. <S> They are not supposed to re-humidify the air to dispose of the condensate. <S> If there is no condensate then something is wrong.
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A portable A/C tries to get rid of that water by evaporating it over on the hot side.
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Exhaust fan in lighting circuit There is an exhaust fan in the lighting circuit, Is it acceptable as per NEC to accommodate Exhaust fan and lighting load in same circuit <Q> Since there are plenty of combination kitchen exhaust fan + light and bath exhaust fan + light (and even bath exhaust fan + light + heat) devices, this is clearly OK. <S> In general, residential exhaust fans require very little power and combining with lights should not be a problem. <A> This is acceptable. <S> Many bathroom fans include lights with the intention of both being wired to one switch on the same circuit. <S> They can also be wired separately to different switches. <A> In the vast majority of cases, an exhaust fan is a very small load on the order of 0.25A (I just installed bathroom lighting that was 0.5 amp), <S> so it's no risk of overwhelming the circuit. <S> Code cares if bathroom receptacles are on the same circuit as exhaust fan, lights, and loads in other rooms. <S> The rules are a little complicated but the gist is that if this fan/light circuit powers bathroom receptacles then it can't power anything in any other room. <S> If you are merely upgrading to fan/light and not remodeling anything else, this should be grandfathered and you shouldn't need to deal with it.
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Code doesn't care if an exhaust fan is on the same circuit as lights.
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1920s stove pipe walled off behind kitchen I have a giant metal pipe filled with concrete or something, it doesn't go anywhere, it's just taking up space in my closet. I assume there used to be a big wood burning stove in the kitchen, and this is where the pipe led to. They removed the stove but left the pipe, and walled it off. I'm no archaeologist but this is my best guess. The pipe doesn't go anywhere. The top is open, the bottom is open, and the side is walled off. It's freestanding. I'm not sure how I can even get started in removing it safely. I have a reciprocating saw, an angle grinder, and lots of patience. But I don't know what material I'm dealing with or how to properly and legally dispose of it. Any ideas? Here's a picture of my kitchen wall. On the other side of this wall is the hallway closet. Here's the view from that angle. Same wall, different side. Inside this closet and to the left, there's this giant hunk of metal encasing concrete or clay or ... something. Here's the top view. Here's the bottom view. <Q> It almost certainly is in sections, but to get the first section out you'll have to get the T away from the wall. <S> Asbestos putties were really common. <S> That said you have a choice, pull it out and stay ignorant, or add probably $2000 to the removal cost to have a test and an abatement firm come out. <A> I would definitely get "free estimates" as many contractors that do DEMO are willing to give you a price. <S> It is upon them to test and remove the asbestos. <S> For your own good health. <S> Best wishes for great demolition estimates. <A> It looks newer , I have remodeled Victorians and 20’s 30’s era homes that were originally wood heated, that double wall pipe was a much later install but it sounds like it was abandoned, <S> yes if nothing is connected or no stack (doesn’t go through the roof) <S> it can go. <S> the clay or fire clay pipe I have worked with did not contain asbestos (my experience only goes back to the early 70’s). <S> On the ones that were in an old unlined brick or stone flue and later lined like your photo shows they were fire clay as far as I could tell but only had 1 out of dozens tested because the owner asked. <S> but it can be done. <S> I can’t think of anything else right now but metal stacks are much easier than unlined brick removal. <S> The stack area makes a great chase for hvac and electrical that were not envisioned when the home was built and the reason I have removed the stacks and flues to keep the original look and have modern heat and cooling plus an easy to pull a sub panel to the upper level for electrical.
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I would be careful removing the vent pipes in the other rooms , many times closed off with what looks like a metal pie plate that if painted with a picture may be valuable, other than that repairing the lath and plaster was easy compared to removing the pipe through a working kitchen or family room The asbestos could have been in the clay pipe, but more likely was in a fireseal putty used between sections. I'd be careful in thinking of solo removal.. Don't not hire anyone who doesn't test for and abate asbestos... Double wall pipe (is much newer not sure of the year ) can be screwed together or is twist lock (more modern) but some twist lock may even have a screw holding it in place, there could be some asbestos like material but
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Repair of antique standing lamp light fitting (UK) I have broken this light fitting off an antique wooden lamp stand. It's a bayonet fitting, which screws onto a brass screw thread. Is this a standard fitting? Does anyone know where I could get one in the UK? Thanks. <Q> The last time I was in Broken & Quick <S> they still had those light fittings - as I nearly got two to make a couple of desklamps. <A> It's not a standard engineering fitting, but they are readily available. <S> The older ones are usually 1/2" BSB (not BSP British Standard Pipe, but BSB British Standard Brass . <S> This is 26tpi, same as cycle thread, but a different thread form: 55 degree instead of 60. <S> https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG252.html Newer studded threads are M10 and M13 metric threads. <S> You can get adapters to fit a 1/2" on a 3/8" or a 10mm threaded stud https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LY1110.html <S> This site has lots of bits for more unusual applications. <S> https://www.lampsandlights.co.uk/lighting-components.php <A> You have a few of options: Take the fixture to a lighting store and try to get an exact duplicate or go to a home store and look for something close. <S> Do you want to have the same type/size of bulb? <S> If not, there are quite a few choices. <S> Good luck from the USA. <A> That brass thing looks like a pretty standard hickey. <S> The entire white plastic assembly above it gets replaced as a unit, that is the lamp socket, and it may have an internal switch as well. <S> Expect to find a huge variety of replacement sockets, and if the socket type has been annoying you, this is your opportunity to change it. <S> Don't be surprised if the replacement looks quite different from this unit. <S> I generally expect to find steel ones that are plated to look brass.
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The brass screw threads are standard but the rest of the fixture looks unique.
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How weather resistant are Fire Bricks? I’d like to build an outdoor cooking area and use wood as fuel. This area would be an elevated platform, 2-2.5 feet off the ground and about 6 square feet in surface area, to use with a grate and/or cast iron cookware. I planned to line the combustion area with fire brick. This area will be exposed to the weather (e.g. sun, rain, snow, ice, freezing temps(0F/-18C)). I would like to use this in all seasons. I'm worried about moisture and heating wet/frozen bricks along with the freeze thaw cycle. The fire brick I see in my area stores are geared toward fireplaces and wood stoves. How well does fire brick stand up to the elements? Will it last for more than a year or two?Is there an alternate? <Q> Normally fire brick is not exposed to weather. <S> The fire brick is only used to line the interior of fireplace and the chimney. <S> Actual fire brick is more expensive than ordinary brick. <A> Never use fire brick exposed to the weather where it can freeze. <S> Fire brick is porous and it will absorb moisture, freeze, then expand and crack (spall). <S> https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_brick <S> Also, the mortar is the wrong type for exterior weather conditions. <S> There is high density fire brick, but is not common, used in chemical situations and is expensive. <A> I have built 3 outdoor barbecue’s each one had fire brick in the pit and lining the flu. <S> One in Ohio and 2 <S> In Oregon the last one is still used regularly after 17 years and is holding up fine. <S> The first one in Ohio <S> I was only there for 3 years <S> but it was ok while we were in that house.
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I expect fire brick would be as weather resistant as regular brick unless you mean a porous insulating brick which would absorb water.
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Can I run a gas hot water heater on propane? I have property where I am boon-docking an airstream. I've been looking into a passive solar hot water heater design, For the holding tank I was looking at using an old hot water heater, I found a used gas hot water heater online, and it made me think, is it possible to use propane with a gas hot water heater? Perhaps I could still do the passive solar setup, but also have the ability to heat the hot water with propane. <Q> I have done the conversion many times, in fact if you have the paperwork your water heater came with the orifice to change it over may be in there. <S> On the water heaters, furnaces and ovens/ stove tops I have done all that was needed was a small brass orifice . <S> The orifice is a brass disk with a tiny hole and usually a number or letter stamped on it. <S> The orifice is on the output side of the regulator and changes the amount of gas the pressure was the same with both propane and natural gas. <S> If your’s did not come with the orifice your local plumbing and electric specialty store may have them that’s where I got them several times. <S> I would check with the manufacturer to make sure your water heater can be run on propane but all it has taken in the dozens I have done was the larger orifice. <A> Sometimes, it is possible. <S> I think the items that need to be converted are the regulator, valve/thermostat, burner and the orifice for both the main flame and pilot light. <S> It would be advisable to only do this if there is an official conversion kit available for the exact model you have, and you know what you're doing. <S> This could obviously be very dangerous if done wrong, since safety-related components need to be switched out. <A> Yes. <S> The "propane tank in the backyard" market is huge, however not huge enough to justify a totally separate line of water heaters, dryers, ranges and furnaces just for it. <S> Therefore most manufacturers offer jetting kits to convert the appliance from one fuel to the other. <S> Check with the manufacturer, or read the installation manual online. <S> But I would bet "yes".
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Some manufacturers have conversion kits available that can allow you to convert the water heater.
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Will a hammer drill also fix screws? I’ve just purchased my first home and have many improvements to make but seem to have way too many useless tools cluttering the garage and as they are outdated I’m looking to replace them for a multi purpose tool or two. I need a tool which will be lightweight ( weak wrists) cordless under 100 gbp not pink or designed for ‘women’ It must be able to drill holes for raw plugs and screws into a range of media but mainly interior plasterboard walls etc drive and remove screws directly into all media ranging from soft wood to medium brick to masonry be powerful enough to drill holes and drive screws with little physical effort on my part whip,thru flat pack with ease be available in the uk. have a degree of user control over speed and power. I desperately need to get some shelving and fixed storage up on the inside of my bricked garage and a mailbox fixed to wooden front door and fun lots of hooks to wooden fence.Help!!!! <Q> A 10.8V/12V battery-powered combi-drill with switchable hammer action will satisfy most of your occasional DIY light-duty tasks and will not be heavy to hold for extended use . <S> It will probably struggle a bit with larger holes in masonry but if you only do a little of that it will be adequate. <S> Usually there is a three position switch: screw-driving (with variable torque-limiting clutch) <S> drilling (with variable speed controlled by the trigger) drilling with hammer action (masonry bits recommended for this) <S> Most drills will have a speed switch with two positions. <S> Use the lower speed for larger drill bit sizes. <S> Example name-brand "pro" product available in UK for around £75, The Lidl "high performance" brad-point drill-bits are a real bargain too <S> If you expect do a lot of drilling into masonry, a mains-powered hammer drill is probably a better choice for a low-cost tool. <A> What you're after is usually known as a combi drill . <S> It's a combination of an ordinary drill and a hammer drill. <S> With regard to the "weak wrists" aspect, I suggest wearing padded gloves (like cycling gloves) because many drills, when stopped, give a sudden kick-back torque which is more of a problem than the weight of the drill. <S> It makes the difference between pain the next day and no pain. <S> An impact driver is not what you need for the described tasks in order to keep in budget. <S> This isn't a site where product recommendations are on-topic, but the Bosch PSB 1800 is a competent tool and fits in your price range. <S> The same manufacturer does a drill accessory set which is likely to include all the bits you'll need for what you describe. <S> Do have a practise go on something when you get a new tool just to get an idea of what it does. <S> If you find that a hole isn't being drilled at a reasonable speed, poke into it with a screwdriver to feel if there's some obstruction of a different material than you're expecting: if you're using a masonry drill bit then it won't go through metal, and the metal could be a water pipe or conduit for electrical cables. <S> If you are buying screws for putting things up, Torx screws are easier on the wrist because you don't have to push on them for the driver bit to stay engaged. <S> For assembling flat-pack furniture, it's best to use hand tools for the first couple of fasteners to get a feel for how they work - <S> that's what they're designed for - and <S> see if you think a power tool would actually be any better. <S> (I would however suggest investing in a set of Wera metric hex-plus keys if you have a lot of furniture to assemble which uses hex socket screws. <S> And a wooden mallet.) <A> This may be over kill for your needs, but as you gain experience you’ll appreciate its capabilities. <S> The Milwaukee m12 hammer drill has hammer and drill modes, as well as a clutch to tighten screws to a certain tightness and then ‘slip’ the clutch to prevent over-torque. <S> It will drill concrete and brick with a good hammer drill bit set (I like Bosch bits). <S> Amazon link here <S> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milwaukee-4933440380-M12-Fuel-Hammer-Drill/dp/B00G7RWH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=m12+hammer+drill+milwaukee&qid=1566650655&s=gateway&sr=8-1 <S> I’ve used mine for over 7 years and although it’s banged up, it still has plenty of power. <S> Yes it will take all the bit-holders and bit combinations as cordless screwdrivers, but it is definitely heavier and can be tiring on long builds (think ikea pax wardrobes), but for most jobs the utility and flexible power is worth it to me. <S> As an aside, I wouldn’t toss out all those useless tools, you may find a use for them later. <S> The biggest mistake I made is tossing out old tools and then having to rebuy them for a one-time job. <A> I have only used my hammer drill three times, and only once for a job where I couldn't possibly have gotten away with a normal rotary drill. <S> I'm glad I got it second-hand. <S> I use my ordinary cordless drill pretty much every weekend. <S> It was well worth the $100USD I paid for it <S> new ~6 years ago, <S> and I'll probably buy a similar model when the (now discontinued) <S> battery finally stops holding a charge. <S> It's generally more useful to have a good drill than a mediocre hammer drill, unless you know you're gonna be drilling into concrete sometime soon. <S> For softer masonry, a rotary drill may or may not do the job. <S> You can often rent even smaller power tools fairly cheaply in the US (or at least where I live), not sure if that's common in the UK though. <S> I use an impact driver at work, but have never had anything my cordless drill couldn't torque at home. <S> For assembling furniture (I generally build my own using #2 pine and drywall screws), I always reduce the torque on my drill anyway to prevent splitting wood.
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An impact driver, which you mentioned, is for driving screws and nuts at a fairly high torque (think of the tool a garage mechanic uses to remove wheel nuts).
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How can I predict now the heat sinks that will appear in winter? I've just moved into a house where I'm concerned that an energy audit might find problems. The clue is that the windows appear to be old single-pane windows. Once it's cold out I can borrow an infrared camera and go around checking to see how bad things are and exactly where the greatest heat losses are. But it's hard to install new windows in winter. What can I do now to anticipate where the problems will be? <Q> The general principle to use is that actual air leaks are a lot worse than just having poor insulation. <S> Look around your doors, windows, plumbing, attic/basement/crawlspace access hatches, fireplace, and anywhere else where there's a hole in the wall. <S> Anywhere you feel air movement is an issue. <S> Anywhere you can see daylight (that's not glass) is an issue. <A> My answer is old school <S> but it has worked for me many times. <S> Get a roll of that semi clear plastic and tape a piece to the entire inside window frame, basically sealing it. <S> you can then work on fixing any leaks and will know when you've succeeded because the plastic will quit moving.here is a link to the type of plastic I used. <S> https://www.amazon.com/Premier-Clear-Plastic-Cloth <S> I also used the blue painters tape <S> so i wouldn't damage the walls or frame. <A> One way is to heat the whole house so it is above the outside ambient temperature, say 24 degrees C, then use a thermal camera to take pictures of the outside walls and roof surfaces of the house. <S> If the camera is calibrated then it will provide a scale showing the relative temperatures.
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Any air leaking will either bow or suck in the plastic. Those walls, windows etc that are loosing heat faster than other surfaces or parts of surfaces show up.
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Why do all shower cubicles have open tops, and does it have to be this way? I have a small bathroom with a traditional 2 sided shower cubicle in one corner. Like all shower cubicles it has an open top. The bathroom has both an opening window and a working extractor fan. If the first person to use the bathroom in the morning takes a shower, then bathroom quickly fills with steam and condensation forms on the walls (even with window open and extractor on). Anyone else who then uses the bathroom in the next half hour or so has to put up with a rather damp and unpleasant environment. (situation is probably exacerbated by location, I'm in northern Europe, the showers are hot, and the bathroom is cool - ideal conditions for condensation) The extractor fan is in the bathroom ceiling above the shower cubicle, I can't help but think that if the cubicle was sealed (i.e. the walls went all the way up to the ceiling) then steam from the shower wouldn't get into the bathroom and the extractor fan would suck it all out before it had the chance to spread into the rest of the bathroom and condense on the walls/windows/floor. Or am I missing something? Is there a good reason the walls of shower cubicles never reach the ceiling? UPDATE - thanks for the suggestions about alternative ways of reducing condensation, but that's not really the focus of the question. Is there a good reason for shower cubicles being open at the top? The only thing this seems to do is to allow steam to escape into the bathroom, and condense everywhere. With a working extractor immediately above the shower why can't the cubicle be sealed? Maybe I have missed something? maybe there's an obvious reason that showers have to be open? <Q> Showers don't have to be open. <S> I've seen and worked on many that had walls to the ceiling. <S> I had a customer who had an open shower and inquired about closing it in because they had a breathing problem and wanted to breathe the steam. <S> I enclosed it by adding two pieces of plexiglass mounted on top of the rails for the shower door and wall up to the ceiling. <A> Maybe try heating the room. <S> The condensation happens on the walls because they are a cool surface (and there is a bunch) <S> Warmer room air will mean the air has more capacity for water <S> but right now this is only happening in the air. <S> The cold walls are acting like a cold glass of water on a hot humid day. <S> Letting cool air in from the window may actually make the problem worse. <S> I would check the door to make sure adiquate air from INSIDE the home <S> can supply what the fan removes. <S> If the door gap isn't enough you may even see dust around the doorframe from where the air is forcefully pulled through. <S> Ultimately colder or shorter showers will also help but <S> good luck advocating for that (: <A> Big problem with enclosed showers is drying them out so mold doesn’t grow. <S> But they certainly exist. <S> Sounds like your problem is proper ventalation. <S> Which would be worse with a closed in shower. <S> Fans don’t work well in high humidity air typically. <A> Fresh air needs a way in. <S> The extractor does just half of the job: pumping moist air out. <S> However, there must be a way for fresh air to come in to replace what gets pumped out. <S> That's because the fan is not a vacuum pump, so it can't work against a sizeable pressure gradient. <S> Given the flow that the fan is supposed to produce, that fresh air inlet needs to be large enough, tiny gaps in the doors simply won't cut it. <S> It's not perfect, because the fan ends up exhausting a lot of the fresh air as well, but you can't instead make the gap at the bottom or water would leak everywhere. <S> So if a shower was sealed, the extractor would be essentially useless as long as the doors are closed. <S> You'd need to have a source of fresh air as well, such as a vent in the ceiling. <S> Without that, you could either: seal the shower almost completely, keeping just a relatively small opening so that the moist air doesn't leak out (and close the shower door immediately after getting out), or seal everything and remember to keep the shower door slightly ajar with the extractor running every time you finish showering.
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Obviously, the simplest solution is to leave a gap above the walls.
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Plumbing toilet and sink into same drain Please see attached sketch for more details, but we want to avoid cutting through the joists below the bathroom and also avoid creating a bulkhead in the family room below. We are located in Toronto, Canada. We are thinking of using a wall mount toilet with an in wall tank from Geberit. Their catalog shows an elbow connector that appears to allow you to run the toilet drain (I assume this is a 3 1/2" pipe) at an angle instead of straight down through the floor. Can we then run the drain horizontally through the bathroom wall (approx 6 ft) and then down the floor into the mud room? If 6ft is too long what is the maximum length we can run the pipe horizontally (not sure if it needs a slope along the run)? We would also like to connect the vanity drain in the bathroom to this drain. Is that doable? There is another bathroom directly behind this one and can the drain for the vanity in that bathroom also connect to the same drain above? Hoping the experts in the forum can provide some insights for us. Thanks <Q> That 6’ run cannot be horizontal - <S> it needs to slope, so either the wall end has to drop or the toilet end needs to be higher. <S> Your locality will specify the amount of slope in the regulations, however, some I have seen have a drop of about 6” across that distance. <S> If the slope is too shallow, then things get stuck... <A> I'm not trying to be funny with this, but it sort of is: <S> If it's done here, I'm certain yours will be ok, as long as your local codes allow it. <A> What kind of studs are you planning in that common wall where the intended sloping horizontal pipe will be placed? <S> If this is a typical wall with 2x4 studs (nominal 1.5 b 3.5 inch dimension) then there is no feasible way to run a 3.5" diameter pipe horizontal through the wall. <S> There are several ways this situation is handled: <S> Use of a wider studs in the wall. <S> 2x6 studs may work but will be very marginal with very little material left on each side as a hole is cut to pass the 3.5 inch drain line. <S> Use a double framed wall with a blind space left between the two walls to run plumbing through the blind space. <S> Sometimes one of the two walls can be framed with the studs turned flat to the wall surface of the wall is one with minimal lateral loads placed upon it. <A> 1/4" per foot is recommended--so 1.5" drop across the six foot run. <S> Steeper than than can cause issues-- the water drains too fast and the poo dries out and eventually the pipe is full of hardened poo. <S> Be sure to use a trap! <S> Personally, I would make the sink connection to the drain as close as possible to the vertical.
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Yes, the sink can tie into the same drain.
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3-way light switch mysteriously works, then stops working, then starts working again I have a three-way light switch that is exhibiting really odd behavior. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. For example, just now the following happened. Lights are off. I go to switch A and flip it back and forth. Nothing happens. I then go to switch B and flip it. The lights come on. I then return to switch A and flip it twice. The lights first go off, then come on again. For about a week, neither switch was working and lights just stayed off. It is very strange. What might be the problem here? Note that these are dimmable lights and that there are a lot of light switches in the house so it is possible the circuit is tied into something else. Can you have a 4-way light switch? <Q> Normal 3-ways are wired like this <S> Your first part suggests a 3-way circuit where one of the switches is miswired. <S> There is such a thing as 3+ switches on a 4-way circuit. <S> Thise switches are added to the middle, and take 2 yellows on one side and 2 yellows on the other side. <S> They either send them straight through, or swap them. <S> I use yellow for travelers because they are a matched pair that are interchangeable. <S> Practical 3-way wiring with cable forces you to use 2 of the 3 available wire colors for travelers, and it can be different on every wire run. <S> As such, I recommend removing all uncertainty by marking them with yellow tape. <S> It makes complicated things dog simple. <A> CHECK 1) Turn off power for this cicuit at breaker2) <S> Remove switches check connections. <S> Note:Typically, switches will have a choice of 2 different connection options: A) <S> Stab connection B) <S> Screw connection <S> If your switches are "stab" connected, they are more likely to become intermittent. <S> Swap out the wiring on them to the to the "screw" connection terminals. <S> If they are already wired on the screw connection terminals, check tightness of connection... <S> if that doesn't seem to correct it, change out the switches... <S> I'd do both just because of age and / or wear. <S> The above is the most likely, in your described scenario. <A> From what you described it sounds like a switch problem. <S> turn off the power to that light and pull both switched out of their boxes and check the connections. <S> If the wires are just stuck in the back of the switches, backstabs, pull them out and connect them to the screws on the sides of the switches. <S> If so, then turn the power back off, put the switches back in the boxes and then turn the power back on. <S> If the problem still exists then one or both of your switches are probably bad.
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Turn the power back on and try operating the switches, carefully, and see if you solved the problem.
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How to find stud when magnets indicate there's one present, but can't find it with a drill I've got a wall that I'm trying to mount a relatively heavy painting on (~25lbs), and am trying to use magnets to locate the stud. Here's where they stick: I've tried to drill into where I expect the stud to be, but I'm not hitting anything past the drywall when using a standard 5/64 drill bit: What can be the reason for this, and how can I find the actual stud? p.s. My suspicion is that these are metal studs, because the magnets are are attracted to the whole of the stud column, but especially stick to those two spots, but I don't know if this has any bearing on things. <Q> Pass a bent piece of stiff wire into one of the holes and use it to feel around inside the wall nearby. <A> A small pocket sized neodymium magnet would definitely tell you of there were any metal studs. <S> A metal stud's dimension is approximately the same dimension as a wood one, so drilling into one ( were the 3 holes I see on your pic ) should have netted a "stud" metal or otherwise, if one were there, I'm saying. <A> After drilling a test hole inspect the drill bit for metal shavings. <S> It would be helpful to magnetize the bit first -- simply sticking the magnet to the bit may be enough.
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Clean the bit before starting; if it emerges with any metal shavings then you'll know you drilled through more than just drywall.
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How to safely unplug an outdoor extension cord that got wet? I plugged a indoor floor lamp outside using an indoor extension cord not realizing it was going to rain (i know - stupid!). Now I am afraid to unplug it, as everything is wet. What can I do to disconnect without getting electrocuted - I have kids. I need some help. <Q> If the outdoor socket has gfci protection through another (indoor) outlet <S> then you can turn that gfci outlet off. <S> The nuclear option is to go to the main breaker and shut that off. <S> After the power is shut off you can safely unplug the extension cord and then turn the chosen shutoff back on. <A> From your description I don't think this situation presents much of a shock hazard. <S> From 40 years of living in a house with the old type of outdoor cover I am familiar with the spring loaded metal cover. <S> If the metal cover is preventing the cord from being unplugged, then lift the cover slightly using a non conducting implement like a [dry] stick [dry piece of wood] or plastic spatula or pasta claw. <S> Then grasp the cord six inches from the receptacle and pull it out. <S> Before grasping the cord you could test it for shock by touching it with the back of one finger. <S> If you don't feel any shocking, then I'd say it is OK to grab it with your hand. <A> If this circuit is Ground Fault Cicuit Interruptor (GFCI) protected, it is designed to protect humans in the scenario you described... <S> And / or you can:Turn off the circuit breaker which feeds this circuit, then unplug your cord. <S> Turn the breaker back on again. <A> An outdoor socket ought to have GFCI protection. <S> This is why. <S> Since electricity transmits rather nicely through wires, GFCI devices are able to protect outlets which are not near them. <S> So for instance an outdoor circuit could have its GFCI protection be at the circuit breaker, or at an intermediate outlet, or at a special "GFCI-only device" called a deadfront, or even a GFCI+switch combo device (which are rather slick, they use the GFCI Test/Reset to actually throw the switch!) <S> The flip side of this is that when it trips, it can be hard to find. <S> So look around your house for GFCI outlets, deadfronts, or GFCI breakers in the basement, garage, or physically near the outlet in question. <S> If there isn't one, put one in to protect your outdoor circuits. <S> Try to avoid outting a GFCI device at the outdoor receptacle. <S> The weather tends to destroy them in short order, even though they're outdoor rated.
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If you know which circuit the outlet is on you can turn off just that breaker.
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Should I switch to a vertical exhaust fan to avoid 90 degree bends? I am replacing the original kitchen exhaust fan on my 1950s house. The old one vented sideways to an immediate 90-degree bend (to 8-inch rigid ducting) and then straight up about 24~36 inches to the roof cap. I purchased a new unit with the same sideways exhaust but after reading some interwebs resources ( for example ) it sounds like avoiding 90-degree bends is best practice. I didn't see anything in the new unit's installation instructions about 90-degree bends or really any kind of ducting recommendations. If I were to switch to a unit with a vertical vent I would need to make up the displacement by using flexible ducting instead of rigid, which I hear is also non-ideal. (Unless there are bends available at less than 90 degrees for 8-inch ducting; didn't see any at HomeD.) Which would be the best solution? Or is there a better one yet? <Q> See sketch below. <S> So this would be a compromise, being less than that stated "stay away from 90 bends". <S> These would let you make an angle equal to your roof's pitch. <S> 0 <S> ° to 90° <A> Redoing the roof penetration is a considerable hassle. <S> I would stick with the current route. <A> Your "vertical" diagram actually appears to show two 90° elbows. <S> It would be much better with two 45° elbows, and searching for "8 ducting 45 degree elbow" finds lots of hits. <S> The other important question is "what does the ducting inside the HVAC unit look like?" <S> My guess is that internally there is a duct going vertically or horizontally, and to get an outlet in the other direction, they add a 90° elbow. <S> If the elbow gets added to create a vertical outlet, there's no point. <S> I would just use whatever is most convenient to install. <A> I didn't see anything in the new unit's installation instructions about 90-degree bends or really any kind of ducting recommendations. <S> Figures 1 thru 4 in your installation instructions are the ducting recommendations from the manufacturer. <S> They show 90° bends...
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A possibility of using a adjustable 90° fitting would do you right in this scenario and you could get the identical roof pitch in that fitting. Certainly two gentle bends are better than a sharp bends, and smooth interiors are better than corrugated - but it's not that critical unless you are planning on long runs (and your diagram appears to show a short run).
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Sink drainage leaking into dishwasher inlet Just installed new dishwasher. Dishwasher fills, cleans and empties without issue. Hours later found water in bottom of dishwasher. Turns out when I empty say a pitcher of water into the sink, water trickles into the dishwasher from the inlet, not the drain. Faucet is not on when this happens. I cannot understand how this is even occurring. I then turn on dishwasher and cancel it, and it empties no problem from the drain. <Q> Does your dishwasher have an "Air Gap" fitting installed? <S> In some places this is a code requirement, but not everywhere, so installers in areas where it is not required will forego it because it costs extra and requires an additional hole in the sink, so installing it often means modifying the sink or even buying a new one (for example if it is cast iron). <A> The alternative to an air gap shown in J. Raefield's answer is a "high loop". <S> Re-read your dishwasher installation instructions. <S> The drain line must be routed so that at some point between the dishwasher outlet and the sink drain connection it is higher than the fill height of the sink. <S> This is to prevent sink water from entering your dishwasher plumbing, where is evidently finding the fill valve open. <A> Turns out Samsung dishwasher has a case break on side of dishwasher where drain water routes through. <S> In case of drain blockage or whatever it is by design that water would then reroute in this case <S> break and reenter dishwasher through inlet on side of dishwasher wall. <S> Though I had a high loop coming off of my piping, it was on a lateral pipe between dual bowl sink. <S> I had to attach DW drain to one of the sink drains, followed by p trap. <S> Water is now "not" backing up and filling entire drain hose that was causing pressure rerouting into dishwasher. <S> Posting in case others have this issue with water coming into inlet area of dishwasher caused by backflow.
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Without an air gap, siphoning action of the water left in the drain tube can cause water in your sink to get sucked back into the dishwasher.
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Supporting Ridge Beam Post with LVL? I want to open this span (about 12') and planning to purchase 2 x 10" LVL's which will sit beneath the double top plate that is already there (so our beam will be 12.5" tall x 3.5" thick). There is only roof above (no floor) and it pitches away from the camera in the kitchen. The garage is below and a beam runs parallel to this wall. I'm wondering about the ridge beam and specifically the double 2x4 post in the wall directly below. I would like to remove that and have my new beam sit on a post about 12" to the right of where that one is. Wanted to get others thoughts on this approach and see if there were concerns about not having a post directly below the ridge beam. <Q> I think you need a structural engineer to sign off your designs before you start cutting structural timbers. <S> However: There is no problem in principle in running a suitably sized blue beam to the right of the current post. <S> This would leave you the completely open space at floor level, but would be visible in the open space above the beam. <S> Does the existing post run all the way to the roof? <S> If not, you won't need one in the new scheme. <S> If it does, you will. <A> I would suggest making the blue beam extend right-ward 2 or 3 studs to more evenly distribute the load. <S> Doing so may even allow for other size options on your proposed LVL. <S> If it were me, I'd use steel I-beams for the horizontal and the vertical. <S> (But I know that is not a cheap option). <A> You need to extend a post from the large ridge beam directly through the basement to the existing footing. <S> A beam that large with an existing post in the attic (and directly under it on the main floor,) <S> I’m <S> sure has a post extending through the basement to a footing. <S> Btw, you imply that there is a post in the attic that sits on the double top plate of the main floor. <S> I’m surprised, because that puts a splice (hinge) in the post. <S> Then, there’s another splice (hinge) at the floor level of the main level. <S> If you live in a high wind area or a seismically active area, you should add connectors at each splice and insure the post won’t bend like a hinge by installing some plywood connecting the post into the rest of the house.
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What you may need, is a post running from the blue beam directly up to the ridge. Moving the post is not advisable.
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Federal Pacific 200a main panel problem with oversized 100a 2pole breaker There is a 200a FPE breaker box (yes, I am aware of all the problems). It is not in the homeowners budget to replace at this time. He has 2 issues: His panel is full His electric furnace is an older 100a furnace. The 100a breaker in the panel is a double pole but it also over crowds the adjoining spot on the right rail. So, essentially, his double 100a breaker is taking up 4 spots (2 on left rail and creeping over (preventing other breakers) and partially covering 2 spots on the right rail. This is a problem because the home owner has to disconnect the 100a to plug in the 30a for the dryer. I advised him that is not ideal in any situation, but extra not ideal with a FPE panel. I thought about installing a sub panel for him right next to the main panel and just re-route the dryer run to that one but I have not installed a sub panel before. I am competent in my ability to do so but would like to hear suggestions from others before I attempt that feat. thanks! <Q> The 100A breaker is overcrowding the other slots for a reason : to enforce stab limits . <S> Even a stopped clock is right twice a day, and FPE got that right. <S> If you did what you wanted to, you would have 130A on those two stabs. <S> That's over stab limits for a lot of modern panels! <S> If you've ever seen panels where the main breaker is in the upper left corner and nothing is allowed across from it <S> even though there's nothing wrong with those spaces , that is why. <S> So if you have felt righteous to do this because you feel you are working around a panel defect, no. <S> This is a plain case of playing swap-the-breaker on an overfull and overloaded panel, with known stab-reliability issues, doing the very thing that has everyone spooked . <S> The 100A breaker is not double size. <S> It is normal size 2-pole. <S> The other breakers are double-stuff. <S> This is a 12-space panel with 8 spaces double-stuffed . <S> A 12-space panel on a 200A, all-electric house. <S> One has to woder if this was permitted in the first place! <S> Kill it with fire before it kills you with fire <S> If you're family, stop fooling around and swap the main panel. <S> It's not any harder than a subpanel, you just have to work in the dark because the meter is pulled. <S> Shop smart for a 40-space of a sensible physical dimension (CH, QO) and combo-pack that includes some breakers. <S> Don't even attempt to solve AFCI or GFCI issues, aluminum wiring issues (loop back on those later, just use Al-rated breakers) etc. <S> If the AHJ insists on increasing project scope to include ancillary stuff like that, then just don't pull a permit and do it underground - but do it correctly. <S> Do double-check your wire sizes <S> - I see too many 30s and not enough 15s. <S> If you're a contractor, run ... <S> this panel is a fire-starter, and if one does, your insurer may decide you're on your own! <S> Why not a subpanel? <S> Because I don't believe it's a significant cost savings over just swapping the main panel, it's a band-aid on a very bad situation, and the heat needs the whole 100A, there isn't spare (electrical) space in the subpanel for anything. <A> It sounds like a sub panel is the way to go, in my opinion as well, in this particular case. <S> I agree. <S> Any sub panel installed will have to have any connections made between the ground and the neutrals in that sub panel REMOVED... <S> Reason being that if there are any ground faults that occur within the newly installed sub panel's branch circuits..., This way, any ground faults will travel only through the grounding system and not the neutral which goes back to your main panel. <S> I'm not sure if your intentions are to pull a homeowner's permit or something else to have it inspected, but that is entirely your call. <S> I would. <A> Change out your service. <S> Half the time they don't trip when needed (federal). <S> Spend the money to keep it safe. <S> Have a license electrician do the job right with arc faults and gfci breakers. <S> Don't try it on your own. <S> One screw up, your dead or the person living there is dead. <S> Ever seen somebody electrocuted? <S> It will haunt you for the rest of your life. <S> Do the right thing.
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Size your breakers to the wire size with the right grounding and bonding.
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Can I use coax outlets for cable modem? I recently moved into a home where each room has a coaxial wall plate. My ISP provides internet through a cable modem, where unfortunately the cable input is in a non-ideal location. Next to that cable input from my ISP, there is a wall plate where I could connect the coax cable. If I did that, would I be able to connect my cable modem from another room's wall plate? How could I go about testing the connections? I unfortunately don't have access to the original owners and can't find out how they did it. <Q> Here's the caveat with old coaxial cable. <S> If this is an older house, it might have cable already, but it's probably RG-59. <S> This is from back in the days of analog signals, well before we were sending digital signals down them. <S> If you have a satellite dish, you'll note they need RG-6 or better. <S> What's the difference? <S> Shielding <S> Now, it's possible <S> there's no interference on those old lines. <S> In which case, stick your modem on and everything should be fine. <S> Your modem should have a web interface and it should tell you the signal strength the modem is getting. <S> Hook a computer to it and then hook the cable up. <S> If you don't get enough signal, you might need to do some work (or call the cable company and have them do it for you, although they might charge you for that). <S> If you need more signal, here's some tips Find the main splitter. <S> It might be in the attic, in the basement (if you have one), or is sometimes outside. <S> With a multi-port setup they probably have a serial splitter. <S> They should have labels saying things like -3.5dB . <S> Your room might be connected to one that says something like -7dB . <S> Make sure it's on one of the smallest dB loss ports. <S> If not, replace it with either another multi-connector (one that has minimal loss) or just get a double-male and connect them together. <S> Make a new run with better shielding. <S> You can buy non-compression ends for this as well, if you don't want to invest in a coax end tool. <A> There's probably a gob of cable terminations in your basement or utility room. <S> With any luck they're labeled. <S> Using a pass-through splicer, connect those two. <S> You should now have a continuous route between rooms, and the only question is whether the resistance and noise introduced by the splicer will substantially degrade your signal. <A> To elaborate further: You have a couple of options Plug modem in where it comes into house. <S> (Probably not ideal due to location) <S> Join outside cable to wall plate, then plug modem in in central utility room. <S> (Again, might not be in central location. <S> Plug modem in as in #1. <S> Many modems have a built-in MOCA adapter (or you can buy one) and connect it to the wall plate. <S> Join all coax connections in utility room via an N-way splitter, and set up another MOCA adapter and a wifi hub in another room. <S> FYI, I've done #3 -- works pretty well!
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You'll need to find the two cables that go to the rooms involved (or simply place your modem there). All your coax will tie into it. You should be able to find RG-6 readily, and probably RG-6 quad shield as well. This would eliminate a lot of signal loss back to the cable connection point.
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Cable TV, Antenna, Coaxial - what is this thing? I'm looking to add an OTA antenna to my home. Over the years, many different cable and dish installers have left thier mark on the home, prior to my ownership. In fact, a dish and all its cables are still on the house. I'm thinking of replacing the dish with an antenna in the same location and using the existing coax, since I like the way it was run. My question is, what is this thing. (There's cables and splitters all over the side of the house that I plan to clean up.) No cables are currently connected to it that arent cut somewhere else. Do I need it? Can I use it for anything? It is properly grounded, so that's something. Final note, I'm in a major metro area, only about 10 miles from broadcasting centers, so I don't have to be precise with my antenna placement. <Q> It's an antenna / satellite combiner. <S> Appears to be an aftermarket add-on . <S> It takes both LNB feeds from the dish, along with the antenna signal, and combines them onto one wire. <S> In this case, it looks like it fed four boxes. <S> Apparently this unit could combine them without a splitter on TV end. <S> Either way, I wouldn't use it without a satellite dish. <A> Proceed as if that didn't exist. <S> There's no markings on it <S> and it's the largest passive splitter I've ever seen. <S> IDK, maybe it's awesome. <S> More likely though it doesn't have a good HZ range . <S> "only hook up what you have to, to avoid signal loss." <S> - that means what you actually want is a M-M connector, not even a splitter at all. <A> Looks like a splitter. <S> You should be okay to get rid of it if it's not being used anymore.
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A regular signal splitter would suffice.
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How do i turn off the hot water so i can fix a leaking hot tap My laundry hot water tap is dripping. I want to change the washer inside the tap but im unsure how to turn off the hot water. <Q> In an ideal world, there will be an isolating valve (see below) under the sink which you just turn. <S> Given you are asking the question, there probably isn't. <S> In that case you need to follow the pipework back until you find a valve. <S> Places to look: If you have a hot water tank, there may be a valve to prevent any water coming out of it. <S> If there is, you can use that. <S> (If you have a hot water tank, and have to use any of the following valves, you may have to drain the hot water tank). <S> Check <S> if there is a valve to stop water flowing in to the hot water tank. <S> Check <S> if there is a valve before or after the boiler. <S> If you have a cold water tank, there may be a valve to stop water coming out of it. <S> Ultimately, you may have to turn off all water to the house (and if you have a cold water tank, you will have to drain it). <S> You do know where the main water stop-cock is don't you? <S> If not, now is a <S> really good time to find it! <S> (Not when there is water pouring through a ceiling.) <S> Depending on how far back you have to go in order to cut off the water, you might want to consider taking this opportunity to add some additional isolating valves <S> - it's very easy. <A> This depends on the system and who installed it. <S> However, some systems will have an isolator prior to the tank so that the tank can be isolated leaving other things working. <S> Other systems will have an isolator before each tap and you can just use that - makes life very easy but not always done. <A> It may be that you do not have to change the "washer" in the cut-off valve. <S> It could be that all you have to do is tighten the bonnet nut on this valve. <S> We need to know exactly where it is leaking to tell you what to do. <S> If it is leaking around the stem with the valve open as it would normally be if the washer was connected with a supply hose, it may be that you do not have to shut off the water to the house, but simply have to tighten a so called bonnet nut around the stem. <S> But if the valve is old, then it is possible that the valve needs to be disassembled for repair or even replaced with a new valve. <S> To open up for repair or to remove to replace <S> any of the hot water cut-off valves, including the hot for the clothes washer, you must normally turn off the water supply valve on the input of the water heater. <S> As long as you are working on the valve the entire house will be without any hot water. <S> The exception to this is that some modern plumbing systems have a manifold or manifolds which allow shutting off the water selectively to certain parts of the house. <S> Depending on how your house is constructed this valve will be in the basement or in a box in the ground outside next to the house or at the water meter. <S> In my area of Dallas, Texas everyone uses the cut-off valve on the city side of the water meter in a box in the ground next to the street. <S> The city of Dallas is aware that their valves are being used for this purpose and does not actively object. <S> As per the local plumbing code in original construction all houses here have a set of valves in a box in the ground next to the foundation, but the type of valve used in the 1970s (a so called "gate" valve) would corrode and become inoperable in 10 years or less. <S> The ball valves used nowadays last much longer, maybe indefinitely.
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On a basic system, then you need to turn off the incoming water supply to the dwelling and that stops the supply to everything, then you can work on the laundry tap, water may still come out due to air getting in and gravity.
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Coupling two 15 Amp circuit breaker for 20 Amp My Bosch micro/oven need 120 volt 20 Amp receptacle. I do not have a 20 Amp circuit breaker for this purpose. Can I couple two separate 15 Amp breakers as a dedicated source to provide higher Amperage limit (20 Amp)? Theoretically this will increase wire cross-section area for a higher Amp. limit. Is it permissible by code? <Q> Paralleling is NOT Allowed You can't do this (except under very limited circumstances that don't apply to your situation). <S> The problem (ignoring the code violation) is that if one of those wires breaks (disconnected at any point between device and breaker) then all of the current will flow on one wire, which is not safe as it would put all 20A on one wire. <S> If the wire that breaks is a neutral wire then things are even worse because then the breaker will never trip because it is protecting the hot wire with the assumption that the neutral will carry the same current as the hot wires. <S> (In a 240V-only circuit, the neutral carries the difference between the hot wires - as little as "0", but in a 120V circuit it carries the same as the hot.) <S> You also must NOT simply replace the 15A breaker with a 20A breaker. <S> Almost definitely the existing wire is 14 AWG, rated for 15A, and not 12 AWG (or larger) rated for 20A. <S> So upsizing the breaker without upsizing the wire will also be a real fire hazard (and code violation). <S> The only real solution is to replace the wire and the breaker (i.e., a new circuit) or to find an oven that is rated to run on a 15A circuit. <A> Absolutely not! <S> Circuit breakers don’t work like that. <S> Did your microwave come with a plug that has 1 straight blade and 1 blade at 90 degrees? <S> If so you will probably need a dedicated 20 amp circuit with #12 wire. <S> 2 breakers depending on how located in the panel could provide 240v and if connected together “boom” <S> And as mentioned above if you have 15 amp breakers your wiring is probably only 14 gauge and 15 amp <S> is the max breaker size. <S> Large micro waves are one of the few devices that I have seen that require a 20 amp circuit so if the blades are not parallel 15 amp you will need a new circuit. <S> , we do not parallel breakers. <A> The short answer is NO. <S> You can't use two 15 amp breakers because that would still trip at 15 amps. <S> You might be tempted to take two existing 15A circuits and connect them both to a 20A breaker, and that would "double" your wire size and work, but it's not safe. <S> If there is just one bad connection somewhere (or a connection goes bad over time), the circuit would appear to work fine, but you would be pulling all that current over one wire instead of two which would overheat and potentially cause a fire. <S> Even with all of that there's still the problem of trying to connect those two wires to devices that only expect one larger wire. <A> No, for reasons the other answers already address well. <S> Moreover, rather than adding a circuit, it would be a lot less expensive and more useful just to replace the microwave with a normal 15A one. <S> There's no need for high-wattage microwaves; to do anything other than heating water (cooking/reheating/thawing/etc.) <S> A 50% duty cycle at 1000W is going to heat your food more evenly than a 25% duty cycle at 2000W. <A> Nope. <S> You are not allowed to parallel conductors like that. <A> Sounds workable in theory, but... <S> As already stated in other answers, it would be a code violation because it would be unsafe; electrical codes exist for good reason. <S> Going beyond safety issues, there are all sorts of reasons why this just isn't a workable idea. <S> Most kitchen outlet boxes are wired with two "hot" lines so that top and bottom outlets can each serve up to a 15A load, for 30A total at 120V <S> right? <S> WRONG! <S> The two hot lines are on opposite phases; between them you actually have 15A capacity at 240V. <S> Yes you normally use them as if it was 30A worth of 120V, but that's not what is actually going on, so you can't simply join them in the outlet box. <S> If you attempted to join them in the breaker panel (VERY BAD IDEA) <S> you'd theoretically have 30A capacity on the hot lines, but only 15A capacity on the one neutral feeding the box (all sorts of unsafe/bad/fire hazard). <S> If you tried to gang up power from other outlets, you might as well just run a new 20A circuit.
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As already stated, your only two options are: Exchange the appliance for one which can operate on a 15A circuit, or Run a proper 20A circuit to feed your microwave. "In theory" this would work as you expect (the part about increasing the wire cross section), but it's forbidden by code because there are a lot of dangerous issues related to this as well as practical ones. If they could be paralleled they would not work correctly as breakers are inverse time devices. To parallel wires they have to be 1/0 or larger you have to run them at lower power levels, which are usually just short duty cycle. Of course it might help to explain why.
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Is wiring the neutral in a circular path correct? I have a bathroom that was re-wired to add a bathroom fan some years ago. I am wondering if it was wired correctly. Originally, I believe the overhead light was wired in a switch loop to a single wall switch. When the fan was added, two new switches (for the fan, and the fan's light) were added on the wall. To make this work, the electrician pulled a new wire pair from the switch to the overhead light. The old wire pair is now in parallel with the single circuit from the breaker panel, it provides power to the three wall switches. All of the neutral wires at the light are tied together, and all of the neutral wires in the wall are tied together. Because there are now two wire pairs between the overhead light gang box and the wall switch gang box, this creates a circular neutral path. In the image, the neutrals are tied together at A and B, and the circle / parallel path for neutral is created by cables 1 and 2. Grounding wires are not shown. <Q> As you have indicated, you will separate the neutrals at two locations. <A> This is not allowed. <S> If I understand your description correctly, the neutrals are in parallel. <S> Parallel current paths for the neutral are not allowed because in any cable the current in the hot conductor(s) and the neutral conductor are supposed to be exactly the same (but they will be in opposite directions) so the magnetic fields cancel out. <S> EDIT Light and fan combinations are normally wired with a single cable which has a common neutral but separate conductors for each hot. <S> The total of the currents in the two (or three) hots will equal the current in the common neutral. <S> This has come up numerous times on this site and there are code experts here who could give the reference. <S> EDIT2 <S> This may be the reference ( https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/web-code-requirements ): <S> The basic requirement is found in 300.3(B): “(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit. <S> All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment-grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with 300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4).” <A> Since we have these very nice drawings, here's a great way of telling if you've complied with 300.3(B). <S> Open the drawing in a Paint program, Photoshop is overpowered but it will do. <S> Select the "paint can" (autofill) tool. <S> Click in an open area. <S> If your drawing is 300.3(B) compliant, the paint will fill the entire diagram, except inside boxes and between wires in cables. <S> Note that on A.I.Breveleri's diagram it will do just that. <S> This mistake arose because the last guy didn't understand: <S> Neutral is not ground . <S> The guy saw all the grounds glommed together just like that (which is fine), and sees neutrals clustered onto a bar just like grounds (often the same bar), and figured "Neutral is [like] ground". <S> And you can get away with that safety defect because nothing tells you not to. <S> At least until you install a GFCI device.
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So for example if only the fan is powered there will be current only in the hot conductor for the fan, but the current in the neutral side will be divided between two separate cables. I think you've figured it out, but here it is in diagram form anyway, for future readers who may be more visually oriented:
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How can I prevent curtain rings from catching on the joint between rod sections? I have a plastic curtain pole (unlike that one). The spot where the extension starts creates a bigger edge than on the pic, and curtain rings always bump into it. It's really, really annoying. Because the window is so wide I need to use such extendable pole. So there's no alternative, at least within my budget. Is there any solution to prevent curtain rings from bumping so much against the edge? <Q> A great trick is to buy 2 curtain rods. <S> IKEA is cheap enough. <S> Join the bigger rods, with narrow inside. <S> For some might need tape to make them snug. <S> Put join in centre to go in support. <S> All the same diameter in the end. <A> Disassemble the pole. <S> This may involve simply unscrewing it completely or there may be a retainer of some sort that needs to be disengaged. <S> Using a file or coarse sanding block, taper the end of the larger pole. <S> Work slowly and don't go so far that you create waves in the end cut. <S> Stop just short of a sharp edge. <S> You want a long angle, such that the horizontal distance is about three times the thickness of the taper. <S> Reassemble the pole. <S> If that doesn't suit, look at creating your own custom-length pole using 1" steel electrical conduit and contact paper. <S> Clean the pole with alcohol and wrap it with one or more layers of paper to coordinate with your decorating scheme. <S> Mount it with common hardware sockets. <A> If it is a white pole, a bit of white electrical insulating tape wrapped around to smooth out the transition can help, but may not be durable. <S> It is however a cheap option to try out. <S> I have used a thick plastic adhesive tape ("Ezyglide Tape", <S> I guess other makes may be available) on my extending metal shower curtain pole and it works well enough. <S> It goes on the top along the length of the pole and, as well as stopping the metal curtain loops scratching, smooths out the transition: <A> Takes about 5 minutes to fit. <S> Brilliant stuff. <A> I have a similar issue. <S> On my curtain rod, there is a sort of plastic washer that slides into the outer rod and makes the transition from the inner to outer rod a little bit smoother. <S> If your curtains have metal rings, that might be enough. <S> See the example on this curtain rod: <S> Also, in my case, I have the curtains on the rod with the loops attached to the curtain, which seem very prone to getting hung up there. <S> My curtain rods are black, so instead of buying a different set of rods, I will try wrapping the spot in one layer of black electrical tape. <S> Depending on what color of curtain rod you have, this may or may not be an option. <A> So many answers, let's add another. <S> If you live near a makerspace, you could visit and find a helpful 3D printer owner. <S> A tapered sleeve to provide a smoother transition is an easy model to construct and would be pennies in filament cost. <S> Durability would be high, even with PLA filament and your color choices are endless. <A> I had same problem... <S> my solution was using thin aluminium from server tray or similar wrapped around inner tube to bridge the gap between. <S> then tape of whatever suits to seal. <S> worked a charm.
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There's a product called Ezyglide Tape that is the best way to fix this - not only does it smooth out the join, but it provides a smooth, slick and silent sliding solution along the whole pole - permanently! On my specific rod, the plastic piece is not that smooth, so you may need to shop around, open boxes, and take a look if the rods come with such a piece, and if you think it would be smooth enough.
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Powering a Window Air Conditioner -- 10' 12/3 SJTW extension cord vs new outlet? TL;DR: Is it fine to use 10' 12/3 extension cord or should I really have an electrician come out & install a new outlet? I recently installed 8,000 BTU window air conditioner (the LG LW8016ER). Unfortunately, there isn't an outlet near the window. I've heard lots of disclaimers that you should have an electrician come out to install a new outlet, and not use an extension cord. Is that really necessary if I get an extension cord of sufficient gauge? Specifically a 10' 12/3 SJTW (the Thonapa TH-123Y10). Reading around, most of the wiring used to connect the outlet is 12 gauge as well, so it didn't seem like it would that different from just running the extension cable. <Q> R.E. Has a great litmus test. <S> If you are going to sell, rent or AirBnB <S> the place like this, fit a proper receptacle. <S> Otherwise... <S> It's about cord damage, and melting extension cords <S> A lot of Electrical Code and UL rules come from data science. <S> Most consumer extension cords are intended for, you know, lamps . <S> They are 16-18AWG, good for 7.5-10 amps in ideal conditions, but they often have problems at connector ends. <S> Historicaly A/C units pulled as much as 13 amps (less now, since Energy Star and SEER). <S> As such, it's a high priority for NFPA and UL to discourage extension cord use, because consumers will make bad choices in extension cords . <S> However, via data science, it has emerged that a large number of casualties happen because of frayed air conditioner cords . <S> This is why air conditioners use funny cords, and have that GFCI-looking thing on their plug. <S> It is actually optimized to detect cord damage. <S> Needless to say, that gadget can't protect an extension cord - so an extension cord defeats its purpose . <S> Use an extension cord ... <S> carefully <S> Or, use surface conduit <S> You add a "starter box" at your receptacle, then follow the wall to a suitable location. <A> Especially while something's plugged in. <S> It wouldn't pass an inspection if you were ever going to sell the place.. <S> But bottom line, that is ultimately every individual's choice . <S> I personally would not have extension cords for more than a weeks period of time.. <S> While the safer outlet was getting installed, of course. <A> Also consider that tripping over the wire could cause the unit to become jarred and possibly fall out of the window, perhaps breaking glass or falling on someone depending on how firmly the unit is secured and its location. <S> It is not worth the risk of injuring someone, perhaps a child--just to save a few bucks.
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If you or anyone else are going to be tripping over an extension cord, we all know that's not good... Extension cords are fine, for temporary situations. #12 THHN wire will suffice, presuming it is actually a proper, mains-listed surface conduit system like Legrand Wiremold, and not merely a cord-organizer intended for ethernet and the like. This is me advising going against UL advice and Code, if you are able to take responsibility for the reasons. There's a reason behind the slogan 'safety first'.
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How can I put in a screw in a concrete ceiling without power tools? I want to hang my plant but my ceiling is concrete. I don't have a drill. I have a hammer and screwdriver. <Q> Unfortunately I don't think you can depend on anything hand installed into concrete, if you want a good hold. <S> Possibly ask a friend if you can borrow their hammer drill ? <A> I think that you CAN use most types of fasteners usually installed with a drill but such would be unreasonably difficult! <S> That would wear out a number of screws and take days - unreasonable! <S> Consider taking a piece of 4” 1x4. <S> Use a “cup hook” <S> - turn it by hand into the wood <S> * - this will hold the wire or string from the planter. <S> Draw a pencil outline around the piece of wood on the ceiling. <S> Then sand or scrape the area until all paint or coatings are gone, and the surface is a little roughened up. <S> Use an epoxy to attach the wood to the concrete. <S> Use tape, like gaffers or moving tape, in several long strips to hold the wood in place while it sets. <S> After epoxy sets for (usually 24 hours - see the label) you can hang the plant. <S> Bigger, heavier plants may need more glued surface area. <S> Eventually, depending on the concrete, this may fail, but it should last a long, long time! <S> *the screw from the cuphook could split the wood when you turn it in without drilling the right hole first. <S> If it does, try another piece of wood <S> , it’s a piece that’s normally ‘scrap’ sized, easy to find for free, and one or two tries should do it. <S> Once epoxied, even split wood should hold up a medium sized plant.... <A> A hardened masonry nail can penetrate and hold in concrete... <S> but concrete has low tensile strength. <S> The nail might hold in a concrete wall or floor, but in a ceiling, it would likely cause a spall - a big divot - if any weight were suspended. <S> Pre-drilling the nail hole would give a better chance of it holding. <S> Use the nails with caution! <S> Wear eye protection, because hardened nails (and concrete) can shatter explosively. <S> Also, hold the nail with a tool to avoid smashing fingers. <S> See this video on their use. <S> A better choice would be to use a carbide-tipped masonry drill and a masonry anchor .
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You could get a Tapcon™ screw and hit it with a hammer enough to cause a small hole, then use the screwdriver to turn it endlessly until it drills its way into the concrete.
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How can I separate a drain pipe from a sleeve protruding from the floor? I am assuming that this late 1940s, early 1950s, drain pipe, which goes into a pipe protruding up through the floor, is simply sealed there with putty. Is that correct? Should it be dislodged and removed by twisting the drain pipe a few inches above the connection using a pair of channel-lock pliers? The threads for the trap are completely corroded and it needs to be replaced. <Q> I would just cut the pipe 10" above the floor and go to a home store or plumbing supply and get the PVC fitting to reconnect the existing pipe to your sink. <S> If you try to twist it you might damage it beyond repair <S> and then you could be in some trouble... <A> Channel-lock pliers probably won't do the job. <S> You'll need two large pipe wrenches--one to turn the pipe and one to secure the sleeve so you don't tear it loose on the other end. <S> Lefty-loosey. <S> After all that time they're probably good and stuck together. <S> This will cause it to expand and hopefully soften and release <S> whatever gunk was used to seal the threads. <A> As it turns out, the pipe was soldered into the sleeve.
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If you can't turn it initially, heat the sleeve with a plumbing torch, trying not to heat the upper pipe.
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Should I use pigtails for pass-through split outlet connections? I have some outlets that are set up in a split circuit (separate lines for top and bottom). I was going to replace the outlet to update it to a more modern looking one and found that there are 4 power lines coming in. Power in and out and for each circuit (so 4 total black wires and 4 total white wires). It is currently using both the screw and push-in method. Is this proper wiring? I've never seen both the screws and push-ins used. It's also very tight in the box. Is there a better way to handle this? It seems like pigtails would be better but I feel there isn't enough space. <Q> Pigtail , pigtail , pigtail, and hook up your new receptacle. <S> The back stab (the push in connection is the largest failure point of any wiring method I have ever heard of but “safe” because when they fail they are inside a box. <S> Hook your 3 blacks and a short section of wire together with a wire nut then this shorter wire to the gold screw. <S> Do the same with the white wires and connect the short white to the silver screw <S> and you have eliminated the major possibility of a failure if someone plugs a space heater, or hair dryer with a few other devices going also down stream. <S> Is it legal <S> yes it will pass inspection in many jurisdictions but not all. <S> Is it safe , according to the national electric code, but I have seen smoke damage many times and even plastic box meltdowns but no major fires. <S> But those push in connectors are a major failure point. <S> I like back & side receptacles they can connect up to 4 wires each side but cost a couple of $ more. <S> I’d your boxes are shallow spending a bit more on the receptacle <S> is the only way to go and they last longer as they are a higher grade. <A> The connection method <S> The last guy used the backstabs out of "necessity" (read: it was a "necessity" to use a 60 cent outlet instead of a $2.60 outlet that had screw-to-clamp terminals). <S> Follow Ed Beal's advice here, but with pigtails, that box will get rather crowded. <S> The box fill As for practical fill, Ed Beal covers that very well. <S> Statutory fill rules are like this: A #14 wire counts for 2.00 cubic inches, a #12 wire counts for 2.25, and a #10 wire counts for 2.50. <S> All cable clamps, together, count as 1 of the largest wire. <S> 2.00 for you. <S> All grounds, together, count as 1 of the largest wire. <S> 2.00. <S> Any "yoke" (that receptacle) counts as 2 of the largest wire attached to it. <S> 4.00. <S> Pigtails are free. <S> Every other wire in the box counts as 1 of its own size. <S> Your eight are 16.00. <S> Total 24.00 cubic inches. <S> There should be a stamp on the back of that box indicating its cubic inches, 24 is pretty darn big for a 1-gang box. <S> If the box isn't big enough, get a "surface conduit starter box". <S> This will stand up proud of the wall by an inch or so, but that will give you the needed cubic inches. <S> Breakers <S> This is not a multi-wire branch circuit. <S> This is two independent circuits on a single "yoke". <S> Because of this , the two independent circuits must be handle-tied . <S> A handle-tie must come from the manufacturer of your breakers; you can't use a nail. <S> While you're there, make sure your breakers are correct for your panel because there's no point buying a handle-tie for an alien breaker. <S> If they are the same manufactuerer (Bryant=Cutler Hammer=Eaton), you are all set. <S> Otherwise, they are probably wrong but ask . <S> Handle-ties are annoyingly difficult to find, and overpriced for being a bit of plastic. <S> The only difference is common trip <S> (both shut off if one is overloaded): a 2-pole breaker guarantees this, a handle-tie does not guarantee it. <S> For this purpose, we only need tied handles to assure common maintenance shutoff. <A> Using push-ins on a split circuit is a recipe for disaster, given the absolute necessity of a reliable neutral connection in this configuration.
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As such, some of us recommend using a 2-pole breaker instead - they are very easy to find for modernish panels, and they cost the same as 2 singles without having to pay for a handle-tie also. So pigtail with a wire nuts or get back and side outlets.
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Can I connect a water heater to an existing dual-pole breaker? Using a Reliance 10 Circuits, 125/250 Volts, 30 Amps, 7,500 Watts, Model# 30310A unit to my panel. I was interested in running my water heater which in my panel has a two 30 amp breakers. Can I run this breaker to the dual pole 20 amp breaker on the transfer switch? Only concern is in my panel it is labeled as a 30 amp but there are no 30 amp breakers on the transfer switch so want to make sure that is not an issue. <Q> With having 4500W elements, the 2-pole 20A breaker will not handle the load. <S> Based on 4500W at 240V the heater would be drawing close to 19 amps and will likely trip. <S> You could swap the elements for 3800W which would draw closer to 16 amps. <S> Your water will just take a little longer to heat up to temperature. <A> I'm no fan of those transfer switch panels. <S> They are very expensive, very weak, not particularly well-built or safe, and the wiring is a spaghetti nightmare. <S> Further, the transfer switch breaks mandatory AFCI/GFCI requirements on some circuits. <S> The subpanel handles that correctly. <S> You are running into the "very weak" limitation. <S> Read the water heater's manual to see what breaker it requires . <S> If the manual calls out a 30A breaker, then you cannot connect it through a 20A breaker on the panel. <S> I most definitely expect it will require 30A; a 4500W water heater requires a 30A breaker. <S> If that is not feasible, then go subpanel. <S> If you have AFCI or GFCI breakers on circuits you want to serve with the generator, then get a subpanel that is compatible with the breakers you already have, and for which you can get an interlock kit . <S> Those range from $20 to $120 depending on panel and arrangement. <S> Otherwise go Siemens/Murray main-lug or no-lug, as they have the best interlock kit ($23 <S> and it ties down the breakers and works with the panel cover off). <S> As far as panel size, the interlock needs 4 spaces. <S> To support 6 single + 2 2-pole circuits, you need 10 more spaces, but hey, spaces are cheap . <S> We'd go with a 30-space or even a 40-space. <S> For the two interlocked breakers, I'd use a 60A (to generator) and 70A (to utility) just to keep costs down. <S> I'd run #3 copper feeder (which can support 100A) from the sub to the main panel (70A breaker there) and #6 copper to wherever you put your generator inlet. <S> Now you just reroute any circuits you want on generator <S> so it's served out of the subpanel instead of the main panel. <S> No spaghetti, just normal wiring. <S> AFCI/GFCI are supported. <S> This gives you a clean, tight and proper installation that will pass inspection with flying colors, and won't be a troubleshooting nuisance in the future. <S> At half the price, all-in. <S> It certainly won't have any trouble supporting the water heater, or even two of them. <A> Can you use a double pole 30 amp breaker for a water heater, sure. <S> I would if the breaker is not in use. <S> If the breaker is in use you will run into tripping problems when the other loads are used while the heater is working. <S> Bathroom receptacles are supposed to be on a 20 amp circuit. <S> code for many years will allow 2 bathrooms to have the same circuit but not 3. <S> I don’t follow the last question about the switch, read the site guidelines , there should only be 1 question. <S> Since it is unclear edit that out and ask a new question. <A> If so, you will not be able to power an electric tank water heater through the transfer switch because the heating element in the tank will draw 30 A at 240 V. <S> Is this transfer switch for changing from the grid to a generator? <S> What is the size of the generator? <S> The generator you have may be able to supply only a small portion of the loads and an electric water heater may be one load you would not be able to supply by the generator.
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If you're committed to this water heater, and you have spaces in your main panel, I'd start by shopping for a generator interlock kit for your existing main panel. It sure sounds to me like your transfer switch is limited to 20 A. It's far simpler, safer, and more versatile to use an actual $75 subpanel with a $30 generator interlock.
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What is on my shower drain and why is my shower not draining? I just moved into an apartment and the shower does not drain well. It floods above my feet every time i shower. I've tried running vinegar down it after showers and this sort of helps, but eventually i need to use a plunger on it to get it to drain, since it will stop draining entirely after a few days. I dont know if this is contributing, but there is a built in stopper in the drain, and im wondering if i can remove this safely? What is it called? <Q> I have one of those that I have to unscrew then unscrew the drain itself, notice the hairs on the cross bars as you remove the drain assembly. <S> Don’t break those hairs just unscrew the lower section and lift it up. <S> YUK! <S> My wife daughters and most of my grand daughters have long hair, when they shower some goes down the drain <S> so I have to do this several times a year. <S> I haven’t needed a snake and you might not either, it is gross but only takes a few minutes. <S> My drain has an o-ring seal but in the past I had to roll a bead of plumbers putty to seal the flange when re installing. <S> I have a wrench to pull the flange but have used heavy duty needle nose pliers in the past. <S> I would recommend pulling it out with this method because a drain cleaner won’t dissolve the entire hair ball and it may break loose and lodge lower in the plumbing and then a snake would be needed. <S> Give removal a try , it’s gross but usually works. <A> That is a push-to-close drain stopper. <S> It will toggle between closed and open if you push on it. <S> Many of them can be removed by a firm pull. <S> It will have some sort of spring or rubber retainer. <S> Likely that your shower has a hair clog. <S> Pull the stopper out and see if you snake it. <S> They have cheap plastic drain snakes out there these days. <A> Vinegar is a mild acid. <S> Good for salad dressing. <S> Doesn't do much for hair clogs. <S> Vinegar + baking soda <S> = acid + base - good for grade-school volcanoes and can help a little with hair clogs, but not that much. <S> What really works on hair clogs? <S> A plunger is sometimes enough to push the clog through, but since you have already tried that and the problem occurs again fairly quickly, that isn't clearing the entire clog. <S> Chemicals. <S> Two basic types, loosely categorized as "enzymes" and "nasty stuff". <S> The enzymes are good for periodic use to help keep the pipes from clogging and for mild, partial clogs. <S> The nasty stuff is good for complete or nearly-complete clogs, though I'd be lyeing if I said it was a perfect solution. <S> Snake. <S> This can range from a single-use plastic strip to a small handheld snake to a larger snake that can be used by hand or with a drill (my personal preference lately) to a "big" rented machine. <S> The big machines are normally only needed for main drain cleanouts with roots or other really bad problems. <S> For an individual tub or shower, you don't need (and in fact, would have trouble using - <S> they're just too big) <S> a big machine. <S> I usually use something like the RIDGID PowerSpin : <S> Whatever you do, get some heavy-duty gloves. <S> Drain cleaning is messy, no matter how you do it!
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What you wipe probably find is a wad of hair and soap scum.
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Nails sticking out of balusters Recently purchased a house and noticed some nails sticking out of the balusters on a staircase. They are pretty sharp so I'm worried about someone stepping up brushing their foot up against it. What are my options for fixing this? Try to pull them and nail back in with new nails? <Q> 18 gauge trim gun nails don't take well to nail sets , especially when they protrude that far. <S> They bend too easily and you'll find yourself with more damage to the wood. <S> Grab them with a needle-nose pliers and bend them back and forth a few times. <S> They'll break off. <S> If you do this well they'll break below the surface and you can putty the holes. <S> If not, now use a nail set to push the resulting stub in, then putty. <S> If you're looking for a stabilizing repair, I'd drill 3/8" horizontal holes 3/4 <S> " deep about 1" up from the bottom on one or more sides. <S> I'd then pilot inside those holes for trim screws at a steep downward angle, into the floor. <S> I'd then glue in 3/8" wood buttons to cap the larger holes. <S> You could also use flush plugs. <A> To me it looks like they have worked there way out <S> so resetting them would have the problem returning faster each time. <S> I would get some colored wood screws pull the nails and screw them down using the same holes. <S> I suggest the colored screws but they could also be driven below the surface and wood putty used to cover the hole. <S> EDIT, please give Isherwood credit for a great answer, I did not spot brad nails because I would never even think of them in this case. <S> He spotted this and we agree that screws would be better, good eye <S> + <S> + <S> + that’s what makes this site so great!... <A> Nails can be punched below the surface with a punch. <S> But if they are the only fixing then you may need to improve that for strength. <A> Ideally you would also get a pair of carpenters nippers or some other pliers to remove the nails that are too bent or protruding too far to hide. <S> (Vice grips often work out well for that too, if you already have a set.) <S> In the long term you should have at least the balusters redone so that they're anchored with a dowel into the stair tread. <S> I would combine that with a very long look at the rest of the railing to be certain it's code compliant and that the railing itself is attached to the walls with a bit more care than was taken here.
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In the short term you should look in the local hardware store for a nail set, which is a small steel tool designed to set finish nails below the surface.
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GFI outlets tripped after power outage I live in a rural area that has frequent power outages (Several per month. Less than a minute in duration). When the power is restored, several GFI outlets always trip. I am trying to track down the cause of these trips, as one of the outlets powers a livestock water heater (Which needs to stay powered during freezing months) for the safety of the animals. The GFI outlets that trip are connected to a sub panel that is fed from the main panel. Turning the breaker that feeds the sub panel off and on also reliably trips the GFI outlets in question. I have reproduced this with nothing plugged into the outlets (And load side of GFI disconnected). This problem has occurred ever since the GFI outlets were installed (Several years ago). I am looking for the next troubleshooting steps to solve this issue. <Q> Some brands of GFCI’s trip on power loss. <S> I first found this when putting them in on a bathroom sink outlet that was switched. <S> Every time the light switch was turned off the GFCI tripped when the switch was turned back on. <S> I switched brands and the problem went away. <S> I think this was an early safety that today some new GFCI’s make you press test then reset to energize the GFCI for the first time <S> so I would change brands with one and verify the tripping is no longer happening before replacing them all. <A> Ed's advice is correct. <S> For a time, some builders of GFCI devices considered this behavior to be a "feature". <S> Undocumented, of course. <S> This is largely gone from the market, so I would cautiously buy one of a particular make/model, and see if it works as you like. <S> If it does, buy more. <S> Too bad, it would make a nice feature for some applications, like a table saw. <A> You might want to think about installing a GFCI breaker in the sub panel that controls the existing GFCI outlets and then replacing the GFCI outlets with regular outlets. <S> In my experience, the GFCI breakers perform better than the individual outlets and last longer. <A> The above answers are correct, but there is more potentially to this problem. <S> GFCI breakers, or ground fault circuit interrupters, trip if the current on the load wire is more than marginally greater than the return wire. <S> This is done with the understanding that the electricity has to go somewhere, so if it's not being returned, it is likely hurting something or someone. <S> These shorts might be caught by an AFCI circuit breaker, or arc fault circuit interrupters. <S> Where I am, these AFCI breakers are becoming required for all livable rooms in the house. <S> If the excess electricity is arcing, then it might be arcing to the return, which the GFCI will not catch, or it could be arcing to some other destination which the GFCI might catch. <S> In the latter case here, something may seriously be wrong with either your circuit, or the devices on your circuit. <S> In this case I highly suggest you check the circuit and devices for damage that could lead to harm to you or your family. <S> In short, in an arc situation, GFCI will not generally detect arcs in the wiring if it comes back to the return. <S> These arcs can happen before a power outage, and can also potentially heat a circuit up and start fires. <S> The only arcs they will catch are ones that find a new ground.
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During a power surge, it may be that your circuit is shorting out somewhere.
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Help, can I still fix this? A few weeks ago, the door knob started to become loose with greyish wood/sand chunks falling out of the gap between the doorknob and the door. Currently thinking of getting a handyman in to have a look but just want some opinions on whether it’s still fixable and if it’s worth it. TIA <Q> Yes, this can be remedied by using a "goof plate" pictured below. <S> If the outer diameter of the lockset is 2" or larger this plate will work. <S> I do believe they make smaller ones if the lockset is smaller. <S> The UPC for this product is 049793095244- Model # U-9524. <S> Package includes 2 pieces-One for each side. <A> The knob hole looks larger than the knob. <S> I want to know if the hole is 2-1/8 <S> " (54mm) diameter . <S> If it is, then you have a standard doorknob hole, but the wrong doorknob assembly. <S> If it is larger than 2-1/8", then have the landlord or home insurer fix it, because this is a big, big mistake! <S> What were they thinking? <S> There is no reason I know of to drill a knob hole oversize. <S> If it is oversize, then decide if you're in love with the door. <S> If not, just replace the door - it will be easier than trying to glue a plug in there, and a lot more secure if it's an outside door. <S> How to get the knob off <S> The screws are covered by a vanity plate, because people don't like seeing screws and because they want to be able to change vanity plates for different knob colors. <S> The vanity plate is the pretty cylinder up against the door. <S> Look for a latch or a catch to release it from the actual backing plate. <S> Also, look for a small tuck-under" maybe 3/16" long, pinch the disc at the points 90 degrees around from there and try to pull it or slide it toward or away. <S> With a normal knob, you typically need to remove the doorknob, but with that type of handle it may just slide over. <S> With the vanity plate gone, you should be looking at a steel plate and two screw heads. <S> It's straightforward from there. <A> I'm guessing the outer ring of the back-plate unscrews to reveal the two machine screws that hold the handles on the door. <S> It looks like the face of the door was drilled too big for the chosen handle. <S> it may be possible to cut a ledge around the aperature with a routerand then fit a plywood cover that spans the opening, drill the cover for the latch axle and the handle bolts, fill the cracks sand and paint <S> The lazy fix is to put some sort of metal plate to span the gap, you might find a flat stainless plumbing escutcheon that does the job. <S> To do it almost-right remove the handles, clean the surface of the void then fill the edges of the void with 2 part plastic filler, you can use cardboard tubes or drinking straws etc to keep the filler from blocking the screw-holes etc, this filler has a strong chemical smell for a few days, so you you may want to remove the door first. <S> This is basically the same stuff as automotive body filler. <S> it sets hard, but before it's fully cured it can be trimmed with a knife etc. <S> when it is cured sand, paint, and re-fit the handles.
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The proper fix is to replace the handles with ones designed for that size of hole or to replace the door.
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Can I replace a 30 amp breaker on my panel with a 25 amp for my new hot water heater? My New Hot Water Heater requires a 25 amp breaker rating at the panel. I currently have a 30 amp at the breaker at the panel for the hot water heater. Should I change it to a 25 amp? <Q> Read the instructions carefully. <S> 30A is an industry-standard convention in North America for tanked water heater circuits. <S> The NEC derating rules require you to provision service for 125% of the actual water heater draw; water heater manufactureres know this , and size their water heaters to take about 23 amps. <S> (Which derates to just under 30 amps, voilà). <S> Underwriter's Laboratories (who pretty much writes the book on what is acceptable, and harmonizes that book with NEC), goes in lock step with this. <S> They certify the labeling and instructions as part of the UL listing (which is why instructions are often so bizarre, it's because they are copy-pasting instructions UL has approved in the past). <S> So I would expect approved instructions to state 23-ish and require a 30A breaker. <S> Because 30A circuits are so standard, and 25A breakes such an odd duck (and difficult to find, encouraging misuse of alien breakers), I think UL would expect poor compliance with any "change the breaker to 25A" instructions, and would push back on the water heater manufacturer to make the heater safe with a 30A breaker. <S> The only advantage I can see to a 25A breaker is if you are using 75C rated wires (not NM/Romex!!!), you could wire it with 12 AWG instead of 10 AWG. <S> But that would encourage another badness: up-breakering 12 AWG to 30A when the owner gets any other water heater on the market <S> that of course requires 30A. <S> Any existing 30A circuit should be 10 AWG wire, and 25A is well within its limits. <S> So changing the breaker will suffice. <A> Yes if the max over current protective device is 25 amp and you have a 30 it is ok to down size. <S> In some cases a very large wire size is used to reduce voltage drop, if the big wires are two large for the breaker they can be pigtailed to a smaller size that will fit the breaker. <S> In your case you probably have #10 wire possibly #8 and these sizes are within the range of your 25 amp breaker. <S> Some stores don’t cary 25’s <S> but they can be found for major brands, or you may have to look on line. <A> Yes you can downsize a Breaker. <S> You need to be sure that the Breaker is larger than or equal to the Appliance. <S> You need to be sure that the wire that is used is for the Breaker size or Larger. <S> i.e.: <S> Typically a 30A Breaker uses #10 wire (here in California) <S> If it was a properly installed 30A breaker there should be a 10/2 or a 10/3 Wire coming from it. <S> You can use a #10 wire for a 25Amp Breaker. <S> So Check your Wire size <S> and you are good to go. <S> As the Breaker will pop before the line melts. <S> You could leave it as is and it would still function, though if its only max Consumption is 25A, then it would take more than 30A to trip the breaker, which might be too late for the device at the time. <S> Breakers can go down in size relative to the Existing Wire. <S> Wire can Upsize relative to the Breaker being used.
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it is always ok to reduce the breaker size if the wiring is legal or compliant with the larger breaker.
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tile over concrete slab My condo has a concrete slab. We put down engineered wood flooring. There has been some flooding in neighboring condos, which has damaged the flooring. Does anyone have a suggestion for flooring that would resist the water damage? Would ceramic tile work ? There are cracks in the slab that we have repaired. the building was built in 1950. <Q> You may want to look into floating tile floors. <S> These are tiles with a rubber or foam backing and snap together like puzzle pieces, instead of being secured to the subfloor with grout. <S> You still need to grout the tiles, but these are made for DIY installation, instead of professional installers. <S> It's more expensive to buy and have other issues, but if you have another crack in the concrete, it won't destroy the tile. <S> Also, if you do find out about a crack you need to fix or have to clean up after a flood, these will be easier to remove and should even be able to be reinstalled. <S> For more info: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/floating-tile-floor/ <A> As its generally used for outdoor purposes it should handle a flood without issue. <S> Another benefit would be that it will leave some air gaps letting the concrete breathe, trapped moisture after a flood can create some real issues. <S> This is the type of tiles i'm referring to . <A> If I had a floor with cracks and known water issues I would do one of the following: <S> Cover the floor in something <S> like - DRIcore Subfloor Membrane (not recommendation just example). <S> Then add either engineered wood or carpet on top (if carpet you probably do rigid insulation panels. <S> Pure vinyl click lock. <S> Don't confuse these with run-of-the-mill vinyl flooring that comes in sheets or has a vinyl top with some other (usually padding plus mdf) type of backing. <S> These are pure rubber click locks. <S> This would be the quickest, easiest, and cheapest solution. <S> If they get wet you spray them off or just let them be. <S> I would not suggest putting down tile even though it is a pliable option. <S> If you do you will need a membrane on the entire floor. <S> This is expensive and these membranes are hard to install right in huge areas. <S> The other issue is membrane or not, if there is enough concrete movement your tiles will buckle/crack.
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If you are concerned about future floods it could be an idea to look into decking floor tiles.
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Contractor cut joist hangers to make them fit (edited with additional info re. header) We are removing a couple of load bearing walls as part of renos in our home. The engineer specified a W8x21steel beam to replace the load bearing wall. The floor joists are 2x10. It appears the contractor put the bolts into the "header" (not sure if that is the right term) in the wrong place (not enough space between bolt and joist). He then cut some of the joist hangers to make them fit. This has been done in at least 4 out of the 10 hangers that he has installed. Also, he used 2 1/2" layers of plywood plus a 2x8 as a header in the flange of the steel beam (see picture below) Questions: Has the integrity of the hanger been compromised by him cutting out part of the material? The hangers he used are Simpson Strong Tie LUS210Z. Are these the correct hangers to use in this application since the beam is shorter than the joist by 2" and the lowest nail barely goes into the wooden The contractor has used N10dhdg Simpson nails (.148" x 1 1/2"). Are these the right nails to use? The Simpson website specifies that common 10d nails (.148" x 3") are used with this hanger. Is the use of plywood + 2x8 as the header acceptable or should this be replaced with a single 3x10 cut to size? Should we use 2 1/2" nails into the header? Per the simpson website https://www.strongtie.com/facemounthangersssl_solidsawnlumberconnector/lus-hus-hhus-hgus_productgroup_wcc/p/lus.hus.hhus.hgus "With 3x carrying members, use 0.162" x 2 1/2" nails into the header and 0.162" x 3 1/2" nails into the joist with no load reduction.With 2x carrying members, use 0.148" x 1 1/2" nails into the header and 0.148" x 3" nails into the joist, reduce the load to 0.64 of the table value." Is this ok and if not any suggestions on how it can be corrected? Thanks!Added view of header inserted into i-beam <Q> No, it’s not acceptable to cut the joist hangers. <S> In order to determine if they are acceptable anyway, there are several issues to review: 1) hangers are notched, 2) <S> incomplete nailing, 3) <S> wrong nails, 4) <S> wrong install of fasteners ( <S> angled install in lieu of perpendicular to joist installation). <S> 1) <S> Notching the hangers voids the allowable stresses published by the manufacturer for each hanger. <S> However, if the hanger is not stressed to its maximum allowed, the engineer can review and determine if it meets the “intent”. <S> 2) 3) and <S> 4) Published allowable stress values are determined by installing the hanger in the proper manner, as per the manufacturer’s installation instructions. <S> When the fasteners are not correct, missing or improperly installed, then the designer will need to make a determination that they meet the required design loads. <S> If you have a Building Permit, I’m sure the Building Official will want the designer to provide “certification” that the installation is acceptable. <S> If it’s not acceptable, it will need to be re-done. <S> So, if the correct wood ledger was used and it’s impossible to comply with the drawings, the engineer will need to redesign...and pay to have it done correctly. <S> You can see that the engineer will do everything possible to accept the lack of nailing fully into the ledger/beam...but will probably want the hanger replaced (at the contractor’s expense). <S> It’s important to you to get this corrected or have the engineer provide the certification, because if there’s a problem in the future, they’ll both point the finger at each other and you’ll be in court forever. <A> Cutting a hanger is never a good idea and should never be accepted. <S> It's shoddy workmanship by the contractor and there were numerous solutions that could have avoided this (starting with properly measuring the bolt locations for the web blocking). <S> They are meant to hang joists from solid sawn wood beams, <S> typically 2 or 3 2x members in a laminated configuration. <S> These can also go into a ledger designed for them, but web infill blocking. <S> Is not typically designed for this for a number of reasons. <S> Simpson makes top flange mount hangers that should have been specified instead (whether by the engineer or the contractor) and either welded or pinned to the steel since that is the actual structural member. <S> Source: licensed architect <A> You never cut hangers unless they are made for cutting. <S> Call in a inspector who will advise you or the engineer who done the design but don't under any circumstances let this go without it being checked. <S> As further down the line could cost you a lot of money. <A> I'm familiar with that double shear hanger. <S> Nails should be 10d 3" for the cross nailing and 10d 3" or 10d 1-1/2" depending on single or double 2 x material rim joist/header. <S> However it's the wrong hanger for the application. <S> It might have been ok if the rim/beam/header was constructed differently. <S> And never modify a framing hanger other than bending those meant for it. <S> The through bolts should have been laid out to avoid conflict with the joists. <A> It appears to be horribly wrong. <S> The hangers should not be cut but this is the least of your worries. <S> For starters, the steel I-beam is shorter than the joist it's intended to support. <S> The bolts connecting the wood header to the i-beam are undersized. <S> The wood headed bolted to the I-beam is shorter than the joist it is intended to carry. <S> There are a few ways to correct this: You can use Simpson's top mount joist hanger and use the I-beam to support the joists. <S> This would require gaining access to the top of the I-beam by removing the subfloor (and any finished floor) above. <S> Depending on the condition of the wood header inserted in to the I-beam you may be able to add another header to the one you have. <S> The new header should be the same size as the joist, and must be laminated and bolted to the I-beam with no less than 3/4" diameter bolts spaced 2' apart in a top and bottom pattern to prevent splitting. <S> Keep in mind that the bolts are carrying the load of the joists and must be strong enough for this. <S> After this is done, install the face mount Simpson hangers. <S> Use Simpson #10 x 3" screws where you can drive through both the original header and the secondary header. <S> Otherwise, use Simpson's #10 x 1½ screws. <S> You would have to notch a section of the 3 x 12 joist so that it can fit into the I-beam while still keeping the 12" width on the outside of the I-beam. <S> The 3 x 12 must be bolted the same way as in option 2 above and the perpendicular joists can be face mounted with the same screw detail as in option 2. <S> There's one or two other options but these three should be the least complicated to achieve. <S> Hope this helps.
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However, the main issue is that these hangers are not designed for this application. If you're able to get to a lumber yard, you may be able to get a 3" x 12" wood joist and use this in place of the header that's affixed to the I-beam. Sounds like your contractor should be to blame for most of this in my eyes, although the engineer certainly could have done better as well.
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What's the best way to keep humidity down in crawl space? I have a nominally dry crawl space that is around 22' square and about 4' tall with a concrete floor. It has no indication of leaks and is dry, but too moist during the hot Maryland summers to keep anything that is not durable in there. It has the air vents from the HVAC for the room above running through it. What is the best way (if possible) to keep the humidity low enough in summer to keep tools/card board boxes/ anything less durable in there during the humid Maryland summers? My initial thought was to add a vent or two down there and keep them closed in the winter and opened slightly in the summer. Any thoughts/insight would be greatly appreciated. <Q> An alternate method avoiding high electricity bills and the necessary water drain for the dehumidifier: Installing a fan of an old PC at the Luv side, connected to a small power supply from an old phone or similar and a timer. <S> If the fan runs only in the night, it pushes in statistically colder and dryer air. <S> In 1 or 2 weeks the space will be much dryer. <A> You could put a dehumidifier in the space. <S> A dehumidifier is basically a refrigeration unit which is optimized to condense water vapor from a space. <S> It will not cool the space and in fact will be a net heat source. <S> There would be a problem in getting rid of the condensed water. <S> You would want to pipe it outside and have it drip into the ground. <S> Some dehumidifiers empty into a reservoir which has to be emptied by hand which would not be desirable. <S> Some dehumidifiers might have a pump to allow the water to be piped away and even raised to get it out of a basement. <S> EDIT <S> If you added an outlet or outlets from an a/c duct passing through the crawl space to direct conditioned air into the crawl space, this would be transporting air from the living space into the crawl space. <S> The net loss of air in the living space would create a slight negative pressure in the living space relative to the outside and cause infiltration of outside air into the living space. <S> So you would need an air return to allow the air from the crawl space to get back to the air handler. <S> This would basically connect the crawl space to the living space. <S> You should carefully consider this before hacking into the ducting in the crawl space. <S> It may be that since you have a concrete floor in the crawl space you could get just enough air flow into and out of the crawl space to keep it dry enough for storage. <S> The register on the vent could be adjusted so the air flow would be just enough to accomplish what you want, but I think you should obtain professional opinions on whether this actually works in practice. <A> In the summer the temperature in the crawl space will be lower than ambient and exterior vents will promote condensation. <S> But <S> yeah <S> during the winter you probably want to feed outdoor air instead.
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adding outlets from your air-con system that feed dry air to the crawl-space should work.
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How can I fix a framing mistake so I can drywall? I’m demoing a kitchen and discovered that the top plate sticks into the room a half inch farther than the studs. The current drywall is attached to the studs and therefore is even with this top plate which leaves the problem of how to drywall the seam where the wall meets the ceiling properly. Option one is to leave the current drywall and drywall over it including the top plate. Option two is to remove the current drywall and reframe the wall so it is even with the top plate. Which is better and why? Other options? <Q> Leave a gap and use a cornice(crown) molding to cover it. <A> If it is not too large of wall <S> I would recommend removing all the old drywall and its fasteners. <S> Then I would shim out the studs with extension strips that even out the wall with the top plate. <S> You may find that not all of these shims are uniform in dimension of any of the studs are bowed or out of plumb. <S> The shims are easily ripped from a 2x4 or 2x6 using a table saw. <S> Then nail them in place with ring shank nails for good holding strength. <S> (Some folks may even suggest running a bead of construction adhesive under each of these shim strips). <S> If you go over the existing drywall you will have other work to extend the electrical boxes. <S> I dislike most box extenders because they can make the inside dimension of the box face narrower and would probably not be compatible with the newer style of smart switches, dimmers and GFCI outlets. <A> If there is nothing wrong with the pre-existing drywall there is no way I could justify removing it. <S> The ceiling joists look like 2x4's turned on their side? <S> I've never seen anything less than 2x6 upright on the ceiling of a house with drywall. <S> I'm also not sure if my eyes are processing the picture correctly. <S> If it's what I think it is, I would nail/screw <S> new 2x4's alongside the pre-existing ones, but upright, creating a "L" shaped joist. <S> This will bring your nailing surface down to meet the wall while strengthening the ceiling joists <S> so the ceiling is less likely to sag in the near future. <A> The cornice molding a la @Jasen really is a good answer, and has to be the easiest. <S> But if you don't want to do that, this is probably the second easiest. <S> (Before you dismiss me as a hack, know that I've done this lots, with good-looking results that have held up for years.) <S> I'm assuming you're going to drywall the ceiling. <S> Get a big roll of fiberglass mesh tape, and use lots. <S> Run one course of tape all the way on the wall, butted up to the ceiling. <S> Another course all the way on the ceiling, butted up to the wall, and a third in the usual position tucked into the corner, halfway on the wall and half on the ceiling. <S> Tape right over the wood, drywall, and any gaps that are left. <S> Make sure the tape extends at least half its width past any possible gap and onto a solid surface. <S> Err on the side of using extra. <S> Mix a bit of it. <S> Smooth it down over the top of the wall, embedding the tape, covering the wood and drywall, and filling in any holes and gaps. <S> Make sure to get it smooth, because that stuff is basically not sandable. <S> After that sets (45 minutes or whatever) do it again along the ceiling, meeting your first layer at the corner. <S> Now, instead of a hodgepodge of wood, drywall, and holes, there is a smooth layer of a concrete-like substance that you can just mud over normally, and you're done. <A> Simple. <S> Take the drywall off then take a nice sharp !" <S> chisel and split that 1/2" off and drywall over it. <S> Bam! <S> Done! <S> Is that the prettiest old school way of doing it? <S> Nobody will see it again for 20 or 30 years. <S> Quit trying to complicate it.
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Removing all the old drywall allows easy access to any electrical boxes in the wall along this stretch so that they can be remounted to provide proper projection through the new drywall that you will install. Get some Durabond (or similar) setting-type joint compound.
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Can I use ratchet straps to lift a dolly into a truck bed? I may be moving a 200lb appliance without help. I have some 1" width strap ratchets rated at 500lb from home depot (4pack). Could I stand in the bed and ratchet up the dolly backwards? Anyone done something like this and tips? I also have some 1000lb pulleys available. <Q> Having had to manhandle quite a few appliances on my own I would do this. <S> Put the truck tray down. <S> Tip the appliance over until the top just rests on the edge of the tray. <S> Lift the back of the appliance and push forward. <S> Once it is all in, stand the appliance up. <S> This way you are never deadlifting the appliance, more pushing and rotating it. <S> You can use rachet straps like lifting straps to get better purchase if you want. <A> For anything requiring a dolly I keep a light, cheapo steel block and tackle in my kit, which were left over from a kid's flying fox, but that's slower. <S> I've used ratchet straps too, but as you're only getting 20 or 30cm of movement before needing to reset with another strap, that's just unprofessionally slow. <A> Motorcycle-style ratchets don't do well for this. <S> Their levers are short, meaning you don't have much pull, and when the spool gets full of strap you're done until you reset, which means you need to temporarily support the load. <S> I suggest looking for a ditch and some 2x10 lumber, then just wheel it up. <A> Those straps aren't rated for straight lifting, and I wouldn't recommend that anyway. <S> Ramps are the way to go, and I would combine ramps with those straps, along with some sort of friction modifier such as the appliance's wheels or bars of Ivory soap. <S> Just expect it to fail worst case at any time, watch what you are doing to assure it doesn't, and move an inch at a time. <S> Slow and steady wins the race. <A> The ratchet straps are good for fixing the appliance securely on <S> the hand truck/flat bed dooly and later on the car. <S> 250 daN straps are IMHO quite flimsy. <S> IIRC <S> the 25 mm straps we use are rated at 400 daN. <S> Don't underestimate the force you have on a strap when properly securing the appliance to the car (or dolly). <S> If you put, say, a 2.50 m ramp to get up to the car's bed at ≈ 90 cm above ground (pick up), instead of lifting 120 kg, you'll lift 0.9 m <S> / 2.50 m <S> * 120 kg ≈ 45 kg. <S> For a van (trunk sill 55 - 60 cm), you'd have < 30 kg. <S> Make sure the ramp is safe and cannot shove off the sill, if needed support it halfways. <S> When loading single-handedly, I'd always pull the hand truck (unless you have a very nice concrete floor, that's anyways easier): if something goes wrong, and the appliance rolls down again, you're on top of it, not beneath. <S> A helper may help by pushing, but for a load of only 100 kg the ramp should make that totally unnecessary - leaving the helper free to e.g. put something blocking the pulley against rolling down and to take care of any emergencies. <S> Depending on the height of your sill and the of the appliance (height, center of gravity, is the suitable side able to take the load), you may be able to load the appliance "over the sill" (not really sure how to express this in English). <S> The most important muscle for this type of work is the one between your ears ;-) <A> if you have a garageor a balcony or like that, you can just lift it up and attach to the ceiling and then drive the vehicle below it. <S> same for unloading. <S> not move the furniture, move the truck! <S> sorry my english is bad <A> I have done somewhat of the opposite of this. <S> When bringing home a large bookcase on top of my SUV I found myself needing to unload it alone. <S> I used a few ratchet straps anchored to my roof rack as safety stops while lowering it so I would not have to hold it's full weight myself and could take frequent breaks. <S> Once it is halfway up you should be able to tip it into the truck bed. <S> Alternatively, You could bring a few larger pieces of wood and make a ramp, or use a pully to lift the appliance into a tree and simply park your truck under it and lower it back down.
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Were I you, I would lever the appliance upward, tighten a strap to hold it there, and then take a small break and re-set the lever for a higher lift. I have a local delivery service and use a hand truck and the sides of my tray as ramps to load and unload large furniture on my own. Use cardboard under it if you don't want to damage the side. It's unbelievable what a rigger can move when he loads with his brain and a lot of patience. It only takes a second or two to wheel modern fridges and most other items up this way.
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What is this next to the kitchen bar sink? What is this next to the sink?! <Q> It looks like my glass/ bottle washer. <S> Is there a knob that turns the hot water on? <S> Mine only had hot water ran the sink until hot set the glass on the wash push the button it would go for 20~ seconds great for rinsing home brew bottles out, those I had to hold the bottle in place because I lost the holder. <A> I do not think that it is technically a "washer". <S> It is more for rinsing a glass, by itself it is not enough to wash the glass. <S> These are used in bars for draft beer. <S> As a lover of beer, i know this :) <S> Why you want to rinse your beer glass - "beers pour better in a wet glass" <S> It would be useful for rinsing any glass prior to its use to insure the dust and stuff that may collect in it is rinsed away before you fill it. <A> I think Ed Beal in correct. <S> Here is a picture of a different style one: <S> Here is a link to several variants if anyone is curious: https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/pitcher-rinser.html
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If you rinse a pint/beer glass with cold water just before you fill it with draft beer it will prevent the the beer for foaming to much which will result in to big of a head on the beer.
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Home Security Camera that is easy to turn off I live in an apartment and want to install security cameras. However, I want the cameras to be activated (ON) only when no one is at the home (or when I want it to be ON). I do not want it to monitor (and possibly broadcast) me. I am sure this is a feature lot of other people would be interested in and the cameras might be providing this. I just do not know what to search for? Or what is this feature called? <Q> There are likely cameras that have such a feature. <S> But a simple solution is: Use wired cameras, not WiFi <S> Connect all the cameras to one network switch. <S> If you are using PoE <S> then you are likely to do that anyway, unless you have other PoE devices such as VOIP phones. <S> Turn the "camera network switch" off/on as needed. <S> If the cameras have no substantial memory of their own, then you could actually leave the network switch "on" but disconnect it from the rest of the network. <S> That would avoid any power-cycle issues as the cameras would not lose power, while still preventing broadcast to a recorder (whether local or in the cloud). <A> From their FAQ : You can also set up Home <S> /Away, a geo-fencing feature that automatically turns off Cloud Cam when your phone is in the same location and on again when it's not <S> They also have a scheduling feature that lets you schedule when the camera is active. <S> Note that this is not a "hard" off switch <S> , so you're really relying on their software to do what it says. <S> The only way to be sure would be to cut the power to the cameras. <A> Or easier yet... <S> Here's something that I've installed for a couple of my customers. <S> You've probably seen the commercials for these. <S> They are called "Ring". <S> It's a doorbell with a camera in it. <S> You connect it to your smart phone <S> I don't remember if the door bell camera is activated by motion or just when someone rings the doorbell. <S> It comes with an extra motion activated camera also. <S> So if someone rings your doorbell (once again I'm not sure if the doorbell camera is motion also) or activates either motion the cameras will turn on and immediately notify you. <S> You will be able to see them and talk to them through your phone. <S> They have no idea if you're home or 1,000 miles away. <S> I've rung the doorbell and was immediately greeted by my customer who was in San Diego. <S> I live in Tucson. <S> I think that it's around $200.00 for the doorbell/camera and a second camera. <S> Super easy to set up and less than an hour to set up.
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If you trust Amazon's security/privacy features, their CloudCams have a "geofence" feature that works in conjunction with the location service on your smartphone - it will turn the cams on when you're away from home, and off when you're back home.
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How to make a reverse bend in a sheet metal box I need to bend sheet metal in a box-like shape, but with one flap in the reverse direction as shown below: Currently I only have a simple flat brake, however, I don't see how to do this, even if I had a $3000 pan and box brake with fingers. The only way to do this that I can see is if I could somehow offset the platen from the apron and then put a die base on the platen inside the box, but as I understand it, normal pan brakes don't do that. <Q> Unless you have a brake that has fingers or the clamping bar has removable plates you are still going to have a problem folding the third fold of the other three. <S> If you are able to do normal four sided box folds then for the reverse flap you would have the option to make a normal box and then attach a separate plate to one side to create the riser flap. <S> This could be attached with welding, spot welding, rivets or sheet metal screws. <A> This object would be simple to make with an electromagnetic sheet metal brake. <S> Magnabend is a name from many years ago (possibly the name of the original invention?); there are now several vendors selling similar machines. <S> In this machine the clamping bar is held with magnetism rather than mechanical force. <S> This allows varying lengths of clamp bar and allows the clamp bar to be open at the ends. <S> A Z shape comprising the reverse bend and the regular bend opposite would be made in the normal way. <S> A clamp bar would be laid inside, the magnet is energized and the fold is made, and then everything is reversed to the other end of the brake to do the second side. <S> In this illustration the 1/2" steel clamp bar is laid on top of the part. <S> The rectangle on the front face of the machine is the bending leaf. <S> The hinges are recessed in the back side of that leaf so that it pivots around a point somewhere in the gap between the machine body and the bending leaf -- roughly around the upper rear corner of the bending leaf. <A> I found out how to do this by asking some men who were experienced in sheet metal work. <S> Here is how it is done: make all the corner cutouts score the end flap [4] and [5] creases with a sharp knife <S> bend down the end flaps, [4] and [5] using the brake <S> bend the end flaps [4] and [5] back up again using the brake <S> so the cutout is flat again, this will leave a strong crease <S> Do a Z-bend on the brake to make the bends for [1], [2] and <S> [3] Use a hand seamer to bend [4] and [5] down again.
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Then, for folding the other two sides, the Z shape would be laid on the brake with the downward-facing flap off one end of the brake. Many of the vendors' offerings are priced approaching $3000, but maybe seeing how the part could be made with a magnetic brake will give you ideas how you might create a special tool around the corner of a welding table, in a vise or hydraulic press, etc.
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Why is my fire extinguisher emptied after one use? I'm planning to make a small DIY gas tank and I saw people using old or used fire extinguishers but I don't understand why my fire extinguisher can't hold pressure after one use. I have this fire extinguisher about 3 years and it was holding pressure but few weeks ago my home workshop caught fire from a lithium ion battery explosion. I used my fire extinguisher to control fire but I only used a little bit. After I used it the pressure gauge showed half of the pressure remained but after few weeks pressure slowly leaked to zero. Do all fire extinguishers do that or is mine just a cheap one? Also I must add: My fire extinguisher is refillable (instructions say it can be refilled by the manufacturer). I'm thinking maybe they have a special method for locking the mechanism? Because leakage happened after I removed the safety pin. Maybe the company added a mechanism so people have to send their fire extinguisher to the company after use? <Q> Fire extinguishers (here in the US anyway) are REQUIRED to not be usable after being discharged, partial or not, because you can never know HOW MUCH extinguishing material was discharged by just looking at the pressure gauge. <S> So the valves are designed with breakaway seals that, once broken, will not hold the charge for very long, forcing you to replace it or have it recharged and re-certified by the manufacturer. <S> These are devices used in saving lives, it's all very serious from their perspective. <A> If it's a dry chemical extinguisher (seems likely, most common, particularly with a pressure gauge) <S> the simple answer is that the valve has got dry chemical dust in it and no longer seals properly as a result. <S> When refilling the valve or valve parts will either be cleaned or replaced as needed, the dry chemicals will be placed in the container, the valve installed, and clean gas will be added to pressurize the tank, which will not contaminate the sealing surfaces of the clean valve. <S> When you discharge the extinguisher, powder and gas both flow out through the valve, and some powder stays in the valve. <S> Leaks ensue. <S> The instructions on the side of the (refillable, servicable) ones <S> I have state that they should be fully discharged and then professionally refilled immediately after any use. <S> So the above would not be an issue. <S> If you want an extinguisher you can partially use (and particularly if you are building a CO2 tank) look for a CO2 extinguisher. <S> They don't typically have gauges (since a gauge would only tell you what the temperature was) <S> - you weigh them to see how much is left. <S> The instructions will still want you to refill after any use (because that's how fire extinguishers are always labelled, to be ready in the event of a need at their rated capacity) but practically speaking most CO2 extinguishers will reseal (there is no dust, just gas) <S> and if you have a clearly labelled "normal" extinguisher and a CO2 that you label as "not for use as an extinguisher" you could do that - or you could just get a small CO2 tank that isn't an extinguisher at all, which would be even more clear. <A> While not strictly speaking "single use", I would consider a typical consumer-grade residential fire extinguisher (I have 2 - one on each floor, with the upstairs one near the kitchen) to be a single-use item. <S> This is for a few reasons: <S> Even a moderately sized fire could make good use of the entire extinguisher, so if it is "half used" it is already in the mode of "possibly not enough for when you really need it again". <S> While the main case is pretty simple and sturdy, the firing mechanism has more small (and possibly plastic) parts and is therefore likely to have problems after use. <S> Remember, that one use in a fire involves pushing a lot of chemicals at high pressure through a small mechanism very quickly - easy for that to cause damage to the mechanism. <S> The price ($15 - $50 typical in a quick search) doesn't allow for super-high-quality mechanism, so it is "just good enough to do the job". <S> , it is not cost-effective to professionally recharge these fire extinguishers, which means the mechanism does not need to be designed for multiple uses. <S> You may ask: If this fire extinguisher is only going to be used once, why bother to have any pressure gauge on it at all? <S> - the pressure gauge provides an easy way to tell very easily whether the fire extinguisher is likely to be functional when it is really needed. <A> Fire extinguishers with plastic heads <S> cannot (or should not) be refilled (recharged)...only metal heads. <S> Plastic heads can split, crack, etc. <S> over time. <S> Either they won’t take a charge or they’ll loose a charge over time. <A> Just a warning: <S> An accident with kilogram amounts of pressurized CO2 in a constrained space could turn that space into an actual "gas chamber" - there could be injuries from losing consciousness and falling, or even death or permanent damage from choking. <A> There are (at least) two types of fire extinguishers, ones that are preloaded and ones that you must load before use. <S> The ones preloaded have the chamber, that contains the extuingishing medium preassurized. <S> The ones you must load have a small gas tank and when you want to use the extinguisher, you press a button that releases the gas in the tank with the medium. <S> Possibly you've got an extinguisher of the latter kind and the medium tank is not made to keep the preassure for a long period. <S> Hint: if the extinguisher says one has to load it by pressing a button or the handles prior to use, this is probably the case. <S> Source: fire protection training in Germany, possibly fire extinguishers in the US work differently. <A> Can't help you with arts and crafts reuse, as that's off topic here. <S> Do hydrostatic test the tank to 225% of working pressure. <S> Better to go "tink" than "BOOM". <S> For use in a home, Take the extinguisher to get it refilled <S> There are shops which do this, because commercial enterprises have their extinguishers refilled every few years. <S> Extinguishers expire, after all. <S> Regardless, you should refill it because you partially used it, and extinguishers are designed to be used on a single fire . <S> The on/off isn't so you can use it on later fires <S> , it's so you can use it efficiently to attack the same fire . <S> Some low-end extinguishers are not refillable, and are indeed one-shot devices. <S> If that's so, the refiller will tell you that.
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The answer is that because there can be leaks for other reasons - e.g., fire extinguisher dropped but did not activate, corrosion of parts, etc. Because the price is low (which encourages people to buy an item that they will hopefully never use!)
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How to safely clean rust and prep on a section of HVAC ductwork before insulating So I have a small section (about 1.5 ft) of non-insulated ductwork with some rust right above my HVAC blower/furnace in the basement. The rust seems to be caused by the water that sweats on that section when I'm running the AC. I bought some hvac insulation that I could put over it, but I wanted to clean off the rust with a wire brush before I do so. My question is: do I also need to use some sort of rust stop or rust cleaner before I do so? And, if so, what kind of chemical/product would be safe for the ductwork? I don't want caustic or strong chemicals to make it into the ventilation system spreading fumes around the house or damaging equipment. Do you think using loctite rust neutralizer would be safe? https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/TDS-1381192-US-Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Bottle-8-fl-oz-2018-04-11pdf Additional Update: Henkel corporation returned my email and said: We would not recommend that the Loctite rust neutralizer be used in an enclosed system, such as, HVAC duct work. <Q> It does, however, have that small California warning about being linked to cancer. <S> Vinegar also works just about as good as the naval jelly. <S> Brush or pour it on and wait ten minutes and wipe off the area. <S> Good luck. <A> Minimal solution is sand and prime. <S> Naval jelly has phosphoric acid as the active ingredient <S> and so it also should not get into places where it cannot be removed. <S> But you could use naval jelly. <A> The problem is that insulation, while it will reduce condensation, it will also trap moisture and hold it there. <S> That, with the existing rust, will rapidly corrode the panel entirely. <S> The only "save the panel" treatment I can see <S> involves aggressive mechanical rust removal followed by competent anti-rust coatings. <S> All of which will involve strong smelling industrial chemicals which will spread throughout the house (this is an air handler after all). <S> For some people, such things are "cootie" euther due to abundancee of caution, or genuine chemical sensitivities. <S> The latter is, unfortunately, a real thing and should not be discounted. <S> You can play around with naval jelly / rust converter, but I've never had any luck with it in wet locations; it always fails within a year. <S> The only things I've ever found to work in a wet location is Media blast to near-white metal (SSPC-PC10) followed by dust removal, solvent wipedown, and almost any competent metal primer. <S> Power wirebrushing to futility, dust removal, solvent wipedown, then Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer, or cold galvanizing compound. <S> (Which is basically zinc powder held together by paint resin and thinner; it's so heavy it <S> needs extensive shaking, and you should buy it in quarts <S> so you don't break the paint shaker, seriously). <S> Every bit of this stuff is "cootie", however the (part intended to evaporate) <S> fumes aren't as bad as the State of California says, and clear after a day or two. <S> The resin (which should stay on the roller/brush) is a different matter, especially for the 2-part exotica, so don't spray it.
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You probably would not need a top coat since the duct work is protected from the elements, but you could possibly get useful extra protection from a top coat. I have used naval jelly for many years and have had great results. The safest removal would be simply hand or light power sanding and then priming. Vinegar should not be used--for one thing it is so fluid that it will get into places where you cannot remove it and will cause corrosion.
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Fasteners for securing cabinets together I'm planning on using GRK Cabinet screws to fasten cabinets to the walls, but plan on using GRK trim screws to secure the cabinets to each other, like these . Are these appropriate? The heads seem a little small, but I figured drawing force wasn't so critical on securing cabinets together, and these heads will hide nicely when countersunk into the cabinet frame. <Q> In most cases those will work nicely. <S> At times, though, drawing force is substantial. <S> The world isn't flat and level and hardwoods can be stubborn. <S> Feel free to use those screws, properly piloted and countersunk, but be prepared to use conventional flute-head screws (gold construction screws) behind hinges or in other hidden locations to do some heavy lifting. <S> For clarity, I'm assuming a faceframe configuration: <S> ______________________________ ______________________________ | _____________________________| |______________________________| | | | | | | <S> | | <S> \ <S> \ <S> \ <S> \ <S> | | <S> | | <S> | | <S> | | <S> | | <S> | <S> | | | | | |___| |___||___|<-- screws here <S> |___| <S> If you're dealing with frameless cabinets I'd consider sleeve bolts as suggested in other answers, but only if you have a tough situation. <S> 1-1/4" drywall or gold screws behind the hinges are usually adequate. <A> I've had good luck with so-called "connecting screws". <S> They are a two-part design, with both sides having a head. <S> One end is like a machine screw with a pan head, the other part has a pan head, but the shaft is hollow and threaded for the opposing end to screw into. <S> They are designed specifically for this purpose. <S> You can get them in various lengths and colors. <S> Colored ones tend to be plastic, while you can buy all metal ones as well. <A> A #8 IMHO isn't thick enough. <S> And 2" long is about 5/8" too long if you are using the standard 3/4" melamine coated chip board. <S> I think you need to distribute the load over more surface, or use a lot of fasteners. <S> Remember Murphy. <S> If you have a wall that is half an inch out of flat, you are going to try to uses these screws to bend the cabinet. <S> This won't happen, but it will try. <S> I have a house where the center of the kitchen, and the wall separating it from the dining room settled 2 inches over 20 years. <S> And another wall that has a 1 inch bow in it over 12 feet. <S> The head distributes the load over more cabinet. <S> I don't like the particular style with the slot connectors. <S> You can also get plastic covers. <S> Drill <S> a 1/16" deep hole with a bit 1/16" larger than the overall diameter of the head. <S> (Experiment on scraps) <S> The covers snap into place. <A> Spax makes screws that work exceptionally well for this application if they're frameless cabinets. <S> They're called rear panel screws, 1.25" length #8s, but the head and thread is made to work well in MDF/particle board. <S> They also make some MDF-specific threaded screws in other sizes, but the wafer head on the rear panel ones makes a nice, clean finish with melamine. <S> If you have face frames, make sure you find something with no thread for a good part of the screw. <S> It'll make it much harder to get a tight join <S> and you'll be creating expansion/contraction issues down the line. <S> Finish screws are not a good idea... <S> you're relying on the strength of the head for your joint holding power, not the threads. <S> Invest in a good countersink bit, predrill, and use ones with a nice bugle head. <S> Or alternatively use a small forstner bit (slightly larger than the head size) and use washer head screws. <S> Also, regardless of how thick the joined materials are, you don't need more than 3-4 threads engaging, usually around 1/2". <S> Never go more than 2/3 the thickness of the adjoining material for your embedment. <S> Source: architect, woodworker, former custom kitchen installer.
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Screws are a bad idea.
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Identify this bathroom extractor fan? I have a bathroom extractor fan that has gone bad, so I need to replace it. If possible, I would like to just replace the motor, rather than opening up the ceiling to put in a whole new enclosure. The problem is, I don't know how to find a replacement. Here are a few pictures: The cover says "Nutone", but I can't get any hits by Googling the partial text visible on the back of the fan. Any advice on how to proceed? <Q> NuTone likely doesn't have anything to do with this. <S> That vent fan used to have a round cover that likely broke at some point. <S> That whole unit needs to be replaced. <S> The fan and housing look over 50 years old - there's just no point in trying to mess with what you can buy new for $15. <A> That's a pretty old unit. <S> Based on the (apparent) metal blades, the color of the motor housing, and the design of the mount, I'd guess it's at least 30-40 years old. <S> I can't find the model number on any old resources for NuTone models. <S> To be honest, I'm not sure you're going to find anything online to help with anything that old. <S> Your best bet would be to try and take the motor in and see if you can match it. <S> That being said, it looks like the motor is floating on those four arms, with rubber bushings for noise isolation. <S> you might want to screw the motor back into the mount and see how much play they have. <S> If they're worn out, or contacting the mount in any way, replacing your motor won't fix your noise issue. <A> It is a nutone brand they are still made, you may be able to revive it with a couple of drops of oil in each end worked into the bearings. <S> I have done this many times over the years even a very light penetrating oil will work for a year most of the time but a couple of drops of motor oil any weight can last for years. <S> As far as identifying the motor without numbers we would have to go by measurements. <S> I have taken ones I could not revive in to the store and matched the sizes of a new one with the dead one so the housing fit and no additional work was needed to replace the motor.
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That is a newer NuTone fan cover that has been drilled to fit over the center post on what is a very old vent fan.
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Is my sink P-trap too low? Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way? <Q> Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down. <S> AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. <S> You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal. <S> OR <S> I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high. <S> Use a regular Ptrap ( <S> non flexible <S> , there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ). <S> You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly. <S> It is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet. <S> If you put it on a threaded connection just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary. <A> In the OP's installation the last horizontal run going into the vertical drain appears to be slightly higher than the horizontal run coming from the disposer. <S> I think this will cause the horizontal disposer run to retain liquid. <S> It appears that some of any liquid waste going into the left sink drain would flow back into the disposer. <S> It seems to me that the T in the final drain must be lower by 2 or 3 inches. <S> See how it is done here <S> ( https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/kitchen-sinks-jpg.15470/ ): <S> In the OP's installation the tailpiece from the sink appears to be out of alignment (at a slight angle) with the next piece below it. <S> But this may be an illusion since it also appears to be the case in the installation shown above. <A> You DO realize you can (perhaps even "are supposed to") cut excess length from the slip-fit trap parts? <S> They are supplied long, but don't need to STAY that way. <S> You can cut most of the tube leading to the trap off, thus raising the trap. <S> Opioninated commentary <S> : I'd also lose the "flex section" on the other side of the trap - it is the part of this setup that will break first, by a long shot, in most cases. <S> Also helps to promote clogs before then. <S> You should be able to line rigid parts up by rotating them. <S> In this case looks like you might also need to trim the "J tube" slip-fit end to make them line up right. <A> The flange piece connected to the sink looks like it isn't mounted flush and could cause leaks. <S> Readjusting the garbage disposal might fix that. <S> It also looks like you have enough room to get rid of that adjustable trap and install a regular one. <S> The "jog" in that trap and the excessive length will probably cause water to rise into that sink when you run the disposal.... <S> Good luck. <A> Maximum water trap height is 4", that's the distance between bottom of P trap and height of P trap outflow. <A> Cut your T off and move it down is the way to fix this. <S> Leave the T upstream of your trap connected, cut the T off the pipe coming through the floor approximately an 1"- 1.5" below the T. Eliminate the flex piece and screw your trap together. <S> This will give you a gauge of how much more pipe to cut off the drain to insert a coupling. <S> Done. <S> Extend your cheater vent. <S> The way it is currently plumbed with a disposal unit, it will be plugged constantly
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You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.
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Flexible Metal Conduit length limits with grounding Basic question - if I have a long run of flexible mc, 12/2 with a green equipment ground wire inside, am I limited in my overall length of this run as long as I meet the support requirements? I see conflicting statements online about 6’ limits unless I provide another dedicated equipment ground line. I have a garage with finished walls, and want to add a circuit to provide a few additional outlets for the garage and for the outside walls of the garage on the exterior. The service panel is in the 2 car garage on one far exterior wall, and I need to make a run from the panel to the closest one side of garage door 1 for an outlet, up and over the door and down to put an outlet between the doors, up and over the second door to put an outlet on the side of door #2, and then transition through the wall to put an outlet on the exterior outside. The runs up and over the doors will be about 30’. If I tie the box/outlets together with the green wire inside the fmc, will this suffice to provide proper grounding? <Q> I am confused as to whether you are using FMC or MC cable. <S> Flexible Metal Conduit <S> This is empty conduit (a pipe) in which you add your own wires. <S> The metal shell of FMC can be used as a grounding path <S> provided it is less than 6 feet and terminated into metal boxes with cable clamps listed for FMC. <S> But I don't consider it a best practice. <S> You add as many THWN-2 (aka THHN) <S> individual wires as you please. <S> For circuits <S> >20A, you can run currents out of the 75C column of 310.15B16, so in this case #8 is ok for 50A. <S> Some people have only ever seen Romex style cable in their whole lives, and have never conceived of the idea of individual wires. <S> Those people believe when you use conduit, you must then chicken-choke the very stiff Romex down the conduit. <S> However, since Romex comes with a bare ground wire, I doubt you'd be asking about grounds in that case . <S> I recommend you run a ground wire in FMC regardless. <S> If you don't want to buy yet another color, then simply strip the insulation off; bare is an acceptable ground color. <S> MC Cable MC cable has all its wires pre-packed inside the MC cable. <S> The shell may not be used as ground, period . <S> Proof of this is that they provide a green or bare wire for the specific purpose of being a ground... ... <S> which begs the question " <S> Why would you need shell as ground?" <S> If the answer is "Because I plan to use green as a conductor", nope. <S> You cannot re-task or re-mark a green wire to be anything but a ground . <S> For that, run 12/3 MC; or run FMC conduit and any wires you please. <A> MC or metal clad comes with a grounding wire there is no length limit on this cable, it requires support or anchoring per NEC 330.30.B <S> Within a foot of the box <S> then every 6’ horizontally or 10’ vertically. <A> You mentioned that you're running 12/2 and a separate ground. <S> That leads me to believe you're running 12/2 romex and adding a ground. <S> When running cable, all the conductors, including the ground, have to be in the cable <S> so 12/2 with ground... <S> but why run romex in FMC?. <S> If you're running 2#12 and a #12 ground, then you're ok. <S> Fishing through FMC can be difficult depending on the fish you're using so you might want to lay out the FMC and run the wires before securing it to the walls and boxes. <S> Securing the boxes and outlets to the ground will make everyone happy. <S> Don't forget that the outlets in the garage and outside have to be GFCI protected <S> so you might want to install a GFCI breaker in the panel instead of the first outlet and feeding the rest from it. <S> Good luck
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You can exceed the 6' limit on FMC if you run a ground it it.
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Is it ok to add an outlet from an Exit sign? I'm trying to install WiFi expanders in our mostly brick building. The barrier is a lack of outlets where we need them. There are literally no outlets in locations were the WiFi expanders could also connect to the main WiFi router. The easy solution would be to tap the junction box from the exit sign and place an outlet 12-18 inches to the side. Picture of what I'd like to do attached. Is this allowed? (In New York State if it matters) Edit to add info: The building is a church built in the 1950s. The Exit sign source conduit comes from one of the hallway fluorescent light fixtures. The Exit sign is an LED, always on light with battery backup in case of AC failure. Behind the exit light it's just a standard steel junction box <Q> I don't know whether it's ok or not from a code perspective, but I wouldn't do it. <S> If I were you I would install access points and power them with POE. <S> You'll get much better and more reliable wifi. <S> It will be a little more expensive especially if you already own the extenders, but would definitely be cheaper if you have to run new circuits. <A> Note that in some areas (in New Zealand, for example), your emergency lighting and signage needs to be regularly tested. <S> Typically by disconnecting the power to those circuits for e.g. 2 hours. <S> Do you want your networking to fall over every few months when the tests happen? <S> This looks like conduit; you may be able to pull more wires for another circuit. <S> Or slap some more conduit up. <A> Trying to edit I deleted oops,, It depends on the occupancy. <S> Emergency lighting cannot have thermal overloads that many lights do have but the router may be able to be added, for example I worked in a hospital as a “engineer” but was a state certified electrician. <S> This was the early days of routers and repeaters but even then they were allow on our e power, most of these devices were close to doors that allowed the signals to reach other buildings. <S> Back then only ICU it was a NONO because the possible case of a ventilation machine doing a double inflate could pop a lung or cause an air bubble to be forced into the blood stream. <S> This was back in analog cell phone days and today they are digital with much lower power requirements <S> but I would check if <S> in a hospital you don’t want to fail a jaco? <S> or joint commission inspection <S> it has been close to 20 years so I might have the initials wrong <S> but this is the organization that rates hospitals.
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Some require dedicated circuits but if the router could be classified as part of the critical equipment it would be allowed even in a hospital.
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Is it a concern that 120v cables hang down from the ceiling in my crawl space? Recently went in my crawlspace to fix some plumbing issues and noticed that all the electrical seems to be just hanging, with some on the ground. I'm fairly certain that this is nowhere close to code, but what I want to know is how dangerous this is? Essentially, is this something I need to take care of immediately (and should have been caught by my inspector when I bought the house) or is this something that could be taken care of when I'm not quite so strapped for cash? <Q> You can run NM cable (the official term for Romex, which is a brand name) in a crawl space either ALONG the SIDES of the floor joists, or THROUGH them (i.e. fed through drilled holes). <S> But you cannot just staple it TO the bottom of the joists. <S> The cable must be protected from being grabbed or pulled. <S> But if those cables are now too short to do that <S> and you need to replace them anyway <S> , I would opt to drill and pull. <A> Aside from what else has been said, the #1 practical priority is to staple the cables so that if cables are yanked on, the staples catch the force <S> and it damages the cable there. <S> You don't want it yanking it out of wherever it's connected, because that could cause all sorts of additional problems in places that are harder to access. <A> It's definitely wrong, the danger lies in getting tangled in it and pulling out connections in whatever boxes the runs go to. <S> You can probably bet that if this is what you can see it's not secure anywhere else. <S> Could also be an issue if you get any water down there as that is not rated for that. <S> I'm not 100% on code in a crawlspaces <S> but I think it's supposed be run between the joists, but I don't see enough slack on all of them to run it correctly. <S> To do it right <S> you'll either have to re-run the circuits or add junction boxes so you can add some length. <S> In the interim you could staple it to the joists to get it up and out of the way. <S> Yes, your inspector should have made a note of this. <S> Also, that's probably not all of the electric, what you're seeing is everything done by previous homeowners.
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Since that may not be an option here, the next choice is to nail small "runner" boards to the bottoms of the joists, then staple the cable to those.
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Can I use polyurethane sealant with Plexiglas? I have a below-grade basement window in a lightwell. In heavy rain, the lightwell fills to the bottom of the window and then the water leaks into the basement. I've been through a lot of options and my current plan (plan D) is to screw a clear plexiglass sheet to the window frame to physically block the water but still let light in. Question: is it OK run a bead of polyurethane sealant (e.g., Sikaflex) along the edge of the sill before I screw the plastic to it, as a waterproof barrier between the wood and the acrylic plastic? Another question in this forum said you should not use silicone because that contains xylene, which is bad for the plexiglass. In net research, I've found any number of answers to my question, all different. Mostly that it won't stick, or I need some special-order primer before using the sealant. Considering that the screws will hold the plastic in place and against the wood, will just the polyurethane provide a reliable waterproof seal, especially between where the screws are? In reply to comments questioning why I am attempting this: I've tried other things.1) I thought the lightwell was filling from direct rain. I built an awning for it that also made sure water wasn't wind-blown in from the sides. Didn't work.2) Turns out the light well consists of concrete walls around a mud floor. When it rains hard, the ground saturates, the water level outside is higher than inside, and the light well starts to fill. The bottom of the windows is still several inches below ground level. I looked into adding a concrete floor. That ran into several problems including not being able to secure the concrete walls firmly to the existing foundation, and creating a "boat" that will want to rise up with the water level.3) French drains won't work--remember we are below ground level, there is no place for the water to drain to. The contractor who suggested one wanted $12k to put it in, and remained vague where the other end would be.4) I could install a sump pump outside and pump the light well to some undisclosed location. This is getting into a bigger project that I was hoping for. I could pump it a long way across some landscaping and a driveway onto the lawn. Or I could try to pump up into the kitchen line 15-20' away that flows into the sewer. It only rains hard enough to spill into the basement half a dozen times a year. As far as I can tell, the previous owner cleaned and painted the concrete in the basement, but this must have been going on for decades and the window frame hasn't rotted (yet). Its only the bottom few inches of the frame we are talking about. Solving the problem seems difficult and expensive--I was hoping the brute force hack would do the job, with annual vigilance. <Q> Look into getting window well covers. <S> They are purpose built for this type of situation. <A> Seems you are trying to put a band-aid on the problem instead of fixing the underlying cause (i.e. the lightwell filling with water). <S> First, I would attempt to fix that issue. <S> This will allow the window window well to (continue to) serve as an egress --especially if there is no other exit from this basement area/room. <S> The water problem is eventually going to rot or damage your window if it hasn't already. <S> I do not believe the plexiglass solution will work and in-the-end, may cause more problems than it solves. <S> beswald's solution may work as well, but I don't know how expensive that will be. <S> My solution is probably about $15 work of material and $15 more elbow grease than the plexiglass solution. <A> Is the window the only exit in a room such that it would be considered an Egress window? <S> Just something to consider. <S> https://www.egresswindows.com/its-the-law
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If so then it would be illegal and dangerous to block the window by screwing plexiglass to the window frame. Perhaps by putting in a drain at the bottom of the window well and channeling the water away from the basement with drainage tile/pipe/gravel into your yard.
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Wired to Wireless Doorbell I am looking at replacing my doorbell (original to the house, circa 1978) with something more modern looking. Now, the problem I have is that most of the modern doorbells are wireless. Mine is wired...and I can't find any information about terminating the power to the doorbell and ideally burying it in the wall to be forgotten about. Is this possible? Or if it isn't what are feasible, ethical and non-burn my house down options? <Q> Don‘t tear the wires out <S> Some newer doorbells are going wireless. <S> But this is not a universal trend. <S> Better doorbells are actually wired, because they do things that take power . <S> They are lighted (like, the button glows), they have cameras or WiFi, motion sensors, microphones, speakers, etc. <S> Those things are not possible on battery. <S> Also, the wireless doorbells I have seen are not well built, and don't last. <S> I would expect quality ones to work both wired or wireless. <S> It would be silly to, a few years later, pay an electrician to re-run the wires... <S> Or have to forego a nice doorbell because of no wires. <S> In other words, I think "wireless" is a fad. <S> I would simply disconnect the wires at both ends without cutting or damaging them. <S> The other end will be the chime, and it's quite likely the transformer is near that. <S> Sometimes, doorbells coattail on the furnace/thermostat transformer. <A> Those wires going to your doorbell button hook up to a transformer somewhere. <S> Maybe it's behind your chime, or maybe its in the attic, but it's there somewhere. <S> Find the transformer and completely disconnect it (but leave it there in case anyone wants to hook it up again), and then you can bury the doorbell wires in the wall. <S> Again, try to make the wires accessible even if you tie a string onto them in case someone else needs it later. <S> If you can't find the transformer, you can cap off the doorbell wires with wire nuts, but that transformer is going to still be live in the house somewhere using a small amount of power. <S> Not really recommended. <A> These have the advantage that you don't have to worry about charging the battery every so often. <A> To power the wired doorbell, there will be a transformer that converts the house voltage to a lower voltage. <S> The other option would be to cap them off and leave them inside the box of the new doorbell. <S> That lets you or a future homeowner use them in the future.
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There are "wireless" doorbells that can actually take power from the low voltage doorbell wiring, though you may need to adjust the wiring to make it a power delivery circuit instead of a "short-circuit to ring" circuit. To decomission the wiring you'll have to find that transformer and remove it.
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Safely hang a mirror that does not have hooks I would like to safely secure a mirror to the drywall. The mirror itself is pretty light (probably under 5kg), the weight is not an issue. However, its back surface does not have any hooks or anything that can be used to secure it. I was going to use a string and some nails, but I am not sure it will work, the wooden part is really thin. Any ideas? Perhaps, some adhesive tape? UPDATE Thanks everyone for your answers. All of them are great, it's hard (perhaps, impossible) to pick the best one. Because the mirror is light, I decided to use a wire and small eye bolts attached to the sides of my mirror. <Q> Mirror clips are made for exactly this purpose. <S> Plain or fancy as fits your decor and/or budget. <A> If that mirror has a wooden frame you can attach picture hanging brackets. <S> the frame looks to be about 10mm thick which is plenty. <A> If the mirror doesn't weigh much more than 15 pounds, you could use some Command picture hanging strips (such as these or these ). <S> They're easy to install and relatively inexpensive. <A> I mounted a similar mirror to a wall by drilling symmetrically-spaced holes through the frame (about one per six inches of frame perimeter) and screwing the mirror directly to the drywall using appropriate-length black phosphate coarse thread drywall screws. <S> In my case the the holes in the frame were acceptable, and due to the dark red-brown color of the frame the black screw heads were all but invisible. <S> (Spacing them carefully also helped reduce the visual impact, and I believe I placed them in a valley in the molding profile to further hide them.) <S> When doing it this way you gain the opportunity to align either the center or one side of the mirror over a stud, and use appropriate-length longer screws to get extra holding strength at the stud. <A> Another option is a french cleat. <S> You really, really, don't want mirrors to fall off the wall. <S> They shatter and explode <S> and if there is any biological unit in the area they are likely to get cut (not to mention any heart attacks from the explosion or the seven years bad luck). <S> You can buy one (e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Z-Hanger-Mirror-Picture-Aluminum/dp/B002NEFF7Y/ref=asc_df_B002NEFF7Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097826602&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16069312577621920230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031347&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-321036497668&psc=1 ) Or make one from a piece of wood: <S> https://www.instructables.com/id/French-Cleat/ <S> If you do make one from wood, you'll probably need either two (top and bottom of mirror) or a bolster at the bottom if you want the mirror to hang parallel with the wall. <S> Sometimes having the mirror angled slightly down is desired. <A> Screws <S> You might consider double headed nails or screws. <S> I like screws, since nails can work out of the wall. <S> The link below would be a good style, and the last pic shows exactly how it would work with your mirror. <S> This style also allows for adding D-rings, wire, or sawtooth hangers (even though the "artist" is wrong about the orientation of the sawtooth hanger as well as what a keyhole looks like). <S> With your mirror, you can even use this style bare, although it would have a tendency to walk off the head and it would damage the paper backing. <S> I'm only suggesting these specific screws because they have a nice long shank between the heads. <S> I'm sure the OP can find similar ones at a different retailers. <S> Also, the variety of images in this listing are useful. <S> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQWQP5Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUtYNlVLODFLOEw0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzI1NDAxQU1CWk9aNk1HNjRRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjA2NTMxV1JMM1dFRFlOTEs0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= <S> You can add D-rings without too much trouble and, with a pilot hole, without splitting the frame. <S> Using screws will prevent damaging the frame and the mirror from shattering that a hammer and nails would almost guarantee. <S> Adding a wire is almost a guarantee it won't be straight, and adding sawtooth hangers is definitely a guarantee of it being crooked, unless you add two of them. <S> Usually sawtooth hangers are attached by nails, as I've already warned against. <S> Hooks <S> You can also try hooks like these, but they might also allow the mirror to walk off the end and would damage the paper backing. <S> These can also be used with D-rings and wires, but generally not with sawtooth hangers. <A> Mirror clips come in many thickness sizes. <S> Choose one with adequate gap to mirror and use _|— to fasten with exposed screw, but allow mirror to be flush. <S> Use a small < 1cm square <S> double sided tape in middle if it bulges out but permits removal. <A> Mirrors are often mounted simply using double-sided adhesive tape. <S> Just google "adhesive tape mirror", and <S> you'll find a lot of products from all brands. <S> You'll find those in your local depot, too. <S> Just be aware that there are two kind of double-sided tape: one that is very thin, and one that is thicker (~2mm), with a core made of foam. <S> If the wall surface isn't perfectly smooth (e.g. a drywall painted with a roller typically isn't smooth enough), you need to use the foam type. <S> Also, be aware that, if you ever plan to remove the mirror, the tape may be strong enough that you can't just unstick it without risking breaking it. <A> You could use a shelf with a ledge on the end like this: or possibly amazon link to secure the mirror. <A> Here are two examples: (of course, you need to get ones in a matching color and texture or color them yourself etc.) <S> As for placing them, you have multiple options: <S> One bracket at the center of each of the four sides of the mirror (top, bottom, left, right) <S> Two brackets at 1/5 and 4/5 of the bottom and the top (or even closer to the left and right edges) <S> Two brackets at the bottom and the top + two brackets at 1/2 of the left and right sides. <S> Some brackets are intended for corners ; in that case it's one at each of the four corners. <S> etc. <S> etc. <S> Here's an example of option 2:
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You can get mirror brackets/clips intended specifically for this use.
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How do I clean sealant/silicone from a glass mirror? I did a poor job of applying silicone sealant to the seam between a glass mirror and the splash back below it. I need to clean-up the smears that I got onto the mirror and the splash-back. How do I do this? <Q> Wait until it dries and use a razor blade to scrape it off. <A> If you have extra you can test, but it will not harm glass <S> My go-to solvent for cleaning ANYTHING off of glass is non-chlorinated automotive brake cleaner, which is usually a mix of acetone, methanol, toluene, heptane, and hexane. <S> HOWEVER, this is quite toxic, and will melt most rubber gloves, so you would need to take precautions in an enclosed environment <S> (I use a multigas respirator and double up on gloves). <S> It is also extremely flammable, If you have safer options that work, do that first. <S> Silicone residue can also sometimes be removed by light friction, like rubbing your finger over it with pressure, since it does not adhere well to smooth glass. <A> Contractor's solvent (a product similar to Goo Gone, but a different formula) does dried silicone on glass, but I wouldn't risk it on the backsplash. <S> I would use a razor blade scraper (carefully) there. <S> The best time to clean up silicone smears is during application, before it is set. <S> A lightly damp sponge works okay, though if you're doing a lot of caulking you may need to rinse it often.
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On the mirror specifically, you may be able to use acetone solvent, however this may harm the splashback.
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How can I repair this gas leak on my new range? Teflon tape isn't working I'm trying to install this GE gas range , so I attached everything and tightened all the nuts. Unfortunately, there's gas leaking at the base of the stove (where the flare connects to the stove). I first tried without teflon tape at the base, and then I wrapped the flare with some teflon tape, but the leak is still there. What else can I do? The flare fitting going to the gas range is 1/2". <Q> Stop , turn off the gas, ventilate the house, and hire a pro. <S> You fundamentally don't understand what you are doing, and doing this wrong can blow up your house. <S> That tends to impair the "learn from your mistakes" method of learning. <S> This is not the place to be "figuring it out as you do it the first time." <S> Removing the teflon tape from the flares won't magically make you competent to safely complete the job correctly, so my advice is let a pro who knows what they are doing do it. <A> Repeating the comments : Do NOT use any pipe dope or tape on flare connections . <S> They are metal to metal seals and anything on the metal sealing surface can cause a leak. <S> Pipe threads (tapered) require dope/tape to get a good seal. <S> I analysed a house fire once and the primary cause was a leak caused by dope on a flare fitting. <A> Everyone else is right. <S> It’s supposed to be a metal-metal seal, so tape won’t do anything. <S> Glue or caulking would not fix it, and trying to welding it or solder <S> it won’t end nicely. <S> Basically, Either the seal or a thread is damaged and you should get a professional to fix it. <S> If not, your leak could not only destroy your home and possibly your neighbor’s homes, you could kill yourself and anyone living in your house. <A> As others have indicated, there is a very real danger that you have damaged the fitting in an attempt to fix it. <S> And you can solve the immediate problem, but have it corrode or fail over time. <S> (I live in farm country where everything, including gas line installations is often DIY. <S> I also have known "professionals" that were so bad they were dangerous.) <S> Either your propane supplier, or the gas supplier, if natural, should be able to point you in the right direction for a competent installer/repairman. <S> If your candid, they will often steer you away from the jerks as well. <A> Not sure where exactly your are describing your leak is. <S> And I am not familiar with the exact type of flare fitting used in your photo, but down here we typically use gas-rated gaskets to seal the fittings. <S> It is not clear from your question whether this fitting supports it and if it does, whether you have the gasket, but usually it is all that's needed: <S> https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Gaskets-Connection-System-Fittings/dp/B01NCJ44XC Looks approximately like this: Gas pipe <S> The black ring inside is obviously the gasket. <A> yet. <S> After watching this tutorial and calling the shop that sold me the parts, I found out that the reason for the leak was that the flare-end of one fitting was attached to the stove. <S> Then I put some teflon tape over the threads that don't have flares. <S> Once everything's tight, I opened the gas valve and double-checked with soap water. <S> No leaks anywhere. <S> I was surprised that nowhere in the internet does it clearly mention that the flare-ends are attached directly to the hose. <S> I found out about this from the video above and taking screenshots of both fittings ( #1 & #2 ). <S> The video's far from great, but it quickly cleared that up. <S> And finally, for anyone that wants to try this, when all is said and done, you're basically attaching a hose to two ends. <S> I'm far from a DIYer , and I was able to do it. <S> As long as the connections are tight and there are no leaks, then it's definitely doable. <S> I'll take pictures of the final installation for reference.
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If you tighten the fitting enough, there are no leaks. Further attempts to fix it can cause things to get worse. So I took apart everything, cleaned everything well, and then attached both "flare-end" fittings directly to both ends of the hose for a metal-to-metal seal. Even if you live in an area where you don't have to have a license to work on the gas connection, there are a lot of indications that you really need someone who knows what they are doing to fix this problem. If you applied teflon tape to a flare fitting, you are NOT the person to be installing your gas range. I'm still alive and nothing's blown up... I've also seen some really, really bad DIY work. Then I confirmed the information with the shop.
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What can I do when coats of paint won’t hide/cover the shadow left on a wall by wooden shelves I have a wall in my dining room that has had a pine wood bookcase hanging on it for 13 years. Today, I unscrewed it from the wall so that I can paint the wall. But every time the paint dries, a ‘shadow’ remains on the wall exactly where parts of the wooden bookcase were touching it. I’m guessing that something has seeped out of the wood and into the wall. Photo of the wall. Sorry, the light is poor in this corner. But you can hopefully see the darker, horizontal strips where the bookcase shelves used to be - despite 3 coats of paint. The new paint is the same make and colour as the original. It is emulsion, chalky and has a very matt finish (it is made by Farrow & Ball, New White No.59). There is no indentation in the wall from where the shelves were. But the paint finish looks and feels different in the places where the shelves were. It is a brick wall, between my house and my neighbour’s. The ‘shadow’ was visible on the wall when I took the bookcase down, and is sadly still there. Can anyone suggest what might be going on here and how I can get rid of the shadow? Many thanks for any help you can give me. <Q> It has better hiding ability then just paint or regular primer. <S> Give it two or more coats and see if it hides the problem <S> and then you can apply the final paint. <S> If you still see a shadow after the shellac primer you could try a coat of bonding primer over the shellac primer. <A> Texture differences are hard to fix. <S> A quick solution is to add a layer of 1/4 inch drywall. <S> Prime and paint as usual. <A> It looks like the problem is not so much anything "seeping through" the paint, but rather different textures that reflect light differently. <S> It might take a little practice, but you could blend the texture in to the existing and hide the flat spots. <S> You can get different textures depending on how you apply it, but you may have to do the whole wall or even the entire room to get everything to match up perfectly. <S> It's not a lot harder than giving the wall or room a coat of paint. <S> I've used similar products in the past, and they work pretty well. <S> I applied the pre-mixed sandy texture paint with a long-napped roller and saved having to re-plaster rooms and hidden patches in popcorn ceilings. <S> Once the texturing dries, just paint as normal.
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You could cover the flat spots with a texturing compound or texture paint that either matches the existing texture or has a complimentary texture. I use a shellac based primer for things such as this.
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Any chance a studded wall is a supporting wall? I'm taking out a wall between two bedrooms to make it into one. This is a studded wall that was the back of the closet in one of the bedrooms and the wall in the other. This is underneath a flat roof single story. This is the ground floor with a basement below and the flat roof above. Is there any chance that these studs are supporting the roof? The home is 40 ft long by 20 ft wide a rectangle in shape. Thanks for any help! <Q> Yes, there is a chance that the wall could be a bearing wall. <S> You can determine if it’s a bearing wall by verifying if 1) <S> the wall is near the middle of the house, 2) has roof joists resting on it, 3) has a beam or concrete footing under it, 4) <S> has plywood, OSB board or double gypsum board on either side of the wall. <S> 1) <S> If the wall is near the middle of the house there is a strong likelihood that it is a bearing wall. <S> 2) You’ll need to look in the attic to see if any joists rest on the wall. <S> (Flat roofs will probably rest at mid-span across the roof.) <S> 3) <S> If you can’t get in the attic, you may be able to get in the crawl space and see a beam or concrete footing under the wall. <S> 4) <S> If you live in a high wind area or a seismically active area, the wall may provide lateral bracing. <S> (The wall would need to extend up to the roof to be structural.) <A> Yes, there is chance <S> a studded wall is a supporting wall. <A> Contact a licensed contractor and ask for an estimate to do the work. <S> If it's structural, you'll want them to do it for safety and code reasons. <S> If not, do it yourself.
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If plywood, OSB board or 2 layers of gypsum board on either side of the wall, then the wall could be a structural wall. If so, that is a strong indication that it’s a bearing wall. Because you mentioned that your roof is flat, there is a strong likelihood that roof trusses that span the entire width of the house were not used, but you’ll need to verify the other items I’ve listed.
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Is there such thing as automatic hot cold water mixing valve? We have a shower that is being used multiple times throughout the day. For each use the target temperature is always ~30C. Unfortunately, the water in hot water pipe tends to cool down if someone was not using shower for longer time. If this happens, then the next person using the shower have to either: start at 100% hot water and 0% cold water. And drain the cooled down water from pipes. Only then ramp up intake of cold water. OR leave the shower to previous setting and drain/waste even more water because cold intake would be delivering water while the hot water temperature is still ramping up. I was wondering if there is a valve, that I could preset to specific target temperature and it would automatically intake only hot water until the egress water temperature reaches the target temperature. Once target temperature reached, then it would start to mix the cold water so that the egress water temperature would not go over the preset temperature. How is such valve called in English? Also, it may be a big problem for us if the temperature ever gets too hot. If such valve exists is it fool proof not to go over the target temperature? The main goal here is to save water and reduce time that person has to wait in the shower for target temperature to be reached. While not mandatory, perhaps a digital screen with two buttons plus and minus to fine tune temperature would be a great plus too. <Q> These are also known as “thermostatic” valves and are used on showers, but also for hot taps in schools, hospitals etc to limit the hot water to a defined safe limit. <S> This is usually around 46 degrees C. <A> That's a tempering, (or temperature-control) valve, usually they are used to prevent scalding, but they could also be applied to pre-mix the shower water. <A> These shower controls seem to be common in the UK, I've never seen one in the USA. <S> I'd be very happy to find one here. <S> I expect importing one and connecting it would be a pain with the different pipe threads and sizes between there and here. <S> One knob sets temperature (thermostatically to a specific temperature, so you don't have to fiddle with it each time, but you can set it warmer or cooler to suit) <S> the other sets the flow rate. <S> Thermostatic shower valve seems to be the right term, but not all results on that term are actually ones that work that way, so look to the details. <S> There do seem to be (severely overpriced, IMHO) digital options out there, and now some in the US market at nosebleed pricing even for basic rotary control. <S> The OP should insulate the hot water pipe serving the shower as heavily as possible. <A> I have yet to see a mechanical "smart" valve which allows 100% hot water and adjusts it for less hot water once the temperature is too high. <S> You would have to dive into digital solutions <S> but I am not familiar with their internal mechanics: <S> https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-K-527-1CP-Digital-Interface-Polished/dp/B005ECLU2Q <S> You could have a recirculation pump installed to get "instant" hot water at the shower head. <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-Hot-Water-Recirculating-System-with-Built-In-Timer-0955800/100426993 <S> This of course assumes that the temperature is suitable for all non-shower uses.
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You could also choose to manually set the water heater to the "perfect" shower temp so that 100% hot water will always be the correct temperature.
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How can I heat a hole in my pond efficiently in the winter without using a pond heater? I'd like to heat my pond to create a hole in the ice during the winter to help a few goldfish survive. The fish are not expensive but I'm trying to save them. The pond is about 50 gallons, about 12 inches deep at the most. Pond is a commercial stiff liner that is kidney-shaped. I've seen the pond heaters use a lot of energy, 1500 watts or more. I have an aquarium heater and I might try that but those can be 1000 watts or more. But I'm concerned it will not survive a 100% duty cycle in mid winter. I'll be using 120vac to heat the pond. Glow plugs seem to all use 12vdc so that's not a great option but I can convert 120vac to 12vdc. Is there a more efficient way to turn electricity into heat to just keep an open hole in the ice in the pond? I am familiar with basic electronics and make LED lights as a hobby. Thank you. <Q> Resistive heat is 100% efficient, a heat pump can be 300% efficient. <S> Either way, you are fighting the weather and it takes a lot of energy. <S> Getting a big horse watering trough (or, given the size of your pond, a small watering trough, or an actual aquarium) and moving the fish into the basement (or perhaps living room, etc. <S> with the aquarium option) for the winter will be far less costly than melting ice all winter. <A> Instead of using heat and letting it all escape you can use a insulated dome to provide a non-iced over spot. <A> Moving water doesn't freeze unless it's extremely cold. <S> Perhaps a small fountain or bubbler in the middle of the pond would keep it open.
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The only way to be "more efficient" than a resistive heater is to use a heat pump, and the upfront cost will probably make that a non-starter.
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Should bottom wall plates in a basement be treated lumber? Question for those who are well versed in framing and then maybe some code as well. I got into a discussion the other day between a couple other trades, they were suggesting I was wasting my time using treated plates in all of the basement walls I built. The basement is a 4" slab of concrete. It's not a leaky basement, but I figured since the wall plate is directly touching the concrete floor, that it should be treated. I also went an extra step and used foam sill sealer. Am I going too far with this? Is it just a waste of money? Treated plates are significantly heavier, more expensive, and also annoying to work with because they warp a day after picking them. I'm considering going to common kiln dried lumber and using the foam sill sealer then, but I worry that if the basement ever floods that sill plate will wick up water so fast, and destroy the drywall and studs until vented and dried out. <Q> I do use foam internally but not treated lumber. <S> The foam prevents moisture from wicking into the plate and rotting it. <S> I do use the foam inside but more often <S> I will use tarpaper as I usually have a roll and it works well and is cheaper than sill seal foam. <S> What you are doing will last but is a bit over the top (one of my buddies says I am over the top with the tar paper). <S> In the case of a flood, the Sheetrock itself is going to wick the water faster than the wood will. <S> I like the barrier under the plate be it foam or tarpaper. <A> I've been involved directly and indirectly with home construction since the 1980s. <S> Here in Minnesota, bottom plates, window bucks, sill plates, and anything else in direct contact with concrete (or even separated by foam "sill seal") have been pressure-treated by code and convention for decades. <S> You're right that warpage is a problem. <S> Keep the treated stuff under a layer of sheathing with weight on top of it until the day of use. <S> Use fasteners rated for the particular chemical used in treatment (stainless or galvanized). <S> No big deal. <A> Your basement doesn't leak. <S> Today. <S> I've had two houses with leaky basements. <S> This is sufficient that my working rule is that "All basements flood. <S> Someday. <S> " <S> The price differential for putting a PT sill plate is is small, and it means that it won't mildew as badly if you get the typical 1/8 to 1/2" 'the laundry drain backed up' flood. <S> If you are paranoid like this, also set all your drywall 1/2" above the floor, then attach all the baseboards 1/8" above the floor. <S> This will allow better vacuuming the water up when the day arrives. <S> For the same reason, I don't put W2W carpet in the basement. <S> Painted concrete is fine, thank you. <S> Might consider glue down vinyl tiles.
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In my state the bottom plate is required to have the foam seal and treated lumber for external load bearing walls only.
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3-way and 4-way switches My kitchen lights operate with 3 wall switches. Two of the switches work properly only if the third (3-way) switch is in the on position. I assumed that the third (3-way) switch was malfunctioning, so I replaced it. There was no change. The other two switches operate only if the third (3-way) switch is in the on position. Should I simply change all 3 switches? <Q> Don't replace the other two switches. <S> You'll only muddy the water, in fact, I would rollback to the earlier 3-way. <S> The root problem is that previously , someone replaced the 3-way switch and they did a bodge job of it. <S> A 3-way switch is supposed to have 2 traveler terminals, going to 2 traveler wires, and a common going either from supply or onward to the light. <S> In either case, there may be 2 wires on the common - either carrying switched power onto a second ligt, or supply onward to other points-of-use. <S> You know, like the other two switches right next to it . <S> Ideally, instead of 2 wires on the common, we like to see pigtails, because they're easier to understand and harder to mess up. <S> However, very likely, the last guy found the splice had been done right on the switch - one on the screw, and the other on the backstab associated with that screw. <S> And he didn't know what he was doing when he hooked up that 3-way. <S> Either he got the wires mixed up... <S> or he got supply and travelers correct but accidentally put the "onward power" onto one of travelers. <S> If you have any other switches in the area that ought to control this light but don't work or only sometimes work, then more likely the former. <S> People think position matters, and it doesn't. <S> Actually, screw color matters. <S> Travelers are on brass screws. <S> So I like to mark them with yellow tape (no need to distinguish travelers from each other). <S> So see if you can correct that problem, least toward the mispositioning of the onward power wire. <A> Switches do go bad <S> so <S> yes, just change the other two, <S> Since you already changed a 3-way, you'll need another 3-way and a 4-way... <S> yes, a 4-way. <S> Do yourself a favor and take pictures of the wiring before unhooking anything. <S> Also, when replacing the switches, hook the wire around the screws on the switches, do not use the back stabs. <S> Remember to shut off the power when doing any work on the switches. <A> One of those switches has to be a 4-way switch for things to work correctly. <A> One of the wires between the 4 way and the 3 way is not passing electricity probably because one of the switches is not making the correct connection to it swap the the two wires from the 4way at the 3 way end, if the problem changes (3 way needs to be "off") <S> it's the 4-way <S> that's bad, if it stays the same the 3 way is bad.
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The usual mistake when swapping 3-ways is that every 3-way switch puts its screws in a different position.
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Is there a dimmer to control both incandescents and LEDs at the same time? My church has the Sanctuary lights on a dimmer switch. The fixtures currently have 200 Watt incandescent bulbs. As those bulbs burn out, we would like to replace them with the equivalent in an LED bulb. We know we will need a new dimmer switch, but is there a dimmer that will work with both types of bulbs throughout the fixtures at the same time? <Q> Consider: A tungsten bulb typically has a 2000 hour life span. <S> A 200 watt bulb will use 400 kWh of electricity in it's life span. <S> If you are at a typical 12c/kWh rate that means $48 worth of electricity over it's life, many times the cost of the bulb. <S> How much are you saving by delaying the replacement? <A> Yes. <S> Screw-in, incandescent replacement LED lights are actually fairly complex peoducts with a lot of smarts. <S> They are not merely "bare LEDs with a limiting resistor" (though low-voltage LED lighting does exist which is this). <S> The smartness of these bulbs makes them naturally immune to dimming. <S> (they will simply disregard what the dimmer is trying to do). <S> However, "dimmable" LEDs have additional intelligence, and are able to reverse-engineer what the dimmer is trying to do, and set their brightness accordingly. <S> However, dimmers need power of their own, and most get it by "leaking" power through the incandescent bulb. <S> Some older ones react badly to the way LEDs work. <S> (Though, many dimmable LEDs have features to ease that problem, and there is also equipment you can use to do the same). <S> We see it all the time where a set of dimmable lights work great with incandescent, work great with some LEDs and 1 incandescent, then fail with all LED. <S> That is when you want to use that equipment. <S> If that doesn't work, replace the dimmer. <S> Sometimes, especially in theatrical work, people find LED dimming to be too limiting - it won't go dim enough, etc. <S> That is a good time to go low-voltage LED dimming/control as I mentioned before. <S> This is an amazing world where anything is possible, and you've seen <S> showcases of this technology. <S> It can be done in colors, can be sequenced and automated, etc., and the dimming can go as low as you want to go. <A> Plus, it is fine to mix incandescent and high voltage LED on the same dimmer. <S> The worst that would happen would be the dimming range is abrupt but this can be fixed by replacing the dimmer with a Lutron CL incandescent type dimmer that comes with a range adjuster to soften the abruptness. <S> What you don't want to do is mix magnetic and electronic low voltage <S> but it doesn't sound like you have that issue. <A> how much money would you be throwing away if you threw out all the 200W globes? <S> is it really worth the effort to try to run a mixture of different lamps off a single dimmer. <S> LED lamps dim at a different rate to incandescents, LEDs respond to current, incansedcents to power, but incansedcents also change hue as they are adjusted. <S> while LED lamps do not. <S> Getting LED lamps to mimic the performace of the incandescents will be hard. <A> Lutron Diva C.L Dimmer for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs , Single-Pole or 3-Way, DVCL-153P-WH, White – Amazon See at the bottom right, where it has little pictures : <S> INC / HAL - CFL - LED <S> The problem is that you have 200 Watt incandescent bulbs, and most dimmers including this one are only good up to 600w. <S> You need some commercial hardware ($$$) or one of these for every three lights.
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Most high voltage LED equivalent bulbs will work fine with a standard incandescent dimmer.
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How to keep Structolite from cracking as it dries I have a house that was built in 1901 and needs a lot of plaster work. I've tried both Structolite and Gypsolite as a base coat over bare brick. Both of them crack as they dry, less than an hour after the structolite starts setting They look like a dried up lake bed. I've tried wetting the substrate before applying it but it doesn't help. Could this be that it's not packed tightly enough and it shrinks when it's drying? It seems solid enough, even with the cracks but I've seen pros using it without the same problem, so I know it can be done. Unfortunately the pros didn't do a good job of spreading it flat, so I'm redoing it myself. <Q> The Structolite is drying out too fast, because the bare brick is wicking out all of the moisture. <S> You need to use a bonding agent and possibly add some sand to your base coat, as well as scarify it, for any successive coats. <S> If this project is going to have any substantial thickness, it probably wouldn't hurt to also add some kind of structural support, like wood and/or metal lathe. <S> I use the latter all of the time, when doing repairs where the plaster has fallen completely off sections of wood lathe. <A> From my experience if there is a crack below the surface it will crack in the same place if not reenforced, I find fiber / fiberglass mesh a big help but not 100% effective. <S> My best results come from removing loose material, roughing up the area, filling and working in fiber mesh. <S> If there is a divot or low spot a quick pass with a grinder and a 2nd coat with another layer of mesh. <S> This can still crack but the have had great success on 2 & 3 story Victorians. <S> In some cases it was better to remove the old horse hair oath and plaster and install drywall aka Sheetrock. <S> Going over brick is the same it is based on what is holding everything together, not much more than horsehair on brick expect cracks. <S> Many Victorians used wall paper to hide the cracks. <S> After remodeling many of these grand old houses we found new Sheetrock and wallpaper gave the best return on investment while maintaining the historic tax exempt status. <A> After having done a lot more work on this job, I'm thinking it's a combination of a lot of the tips and answers given here. <S> When mixing it should easily hold its peaks.
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I've had good success with wetting the brick underneath and with mixing the material very dry, with just enough water so it becomes a paste and spreads.
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Garage door sticks on a bolt My garage door sticks on the way down, apparently when the bottom roller meets a bolt in the track (see photo). A shot of garage door lube on the bolt head helps it close for the first couple of times. After that I need to give it a little tug. I don't see any way to adjust the roller position. Suggestions? <Q> I am a commercial door guy and that bolt is what holds your track together. <S> Your issue is the misaligned track at the joint. <A> It is likely that the misalignment of the lower vertical track section with respect to the lower edge of the curved track is causing this problem. <S> In your case the curved track piece is spot welded to the bracket that then mounts to the door frame. <S> This means that the curved section is not adjustable unless there are slip-joint bolt adjustments in the bracket itself. <S> To readjust the lower track section you will have to loosen the bolt and possibly add another lower down on the track section. <S> The hole the bolt goes through should allow some movement of the track back and forth. <S> When you get it properly aligned then re-tighten the bolts. <S> From the picture it looks like there may be some interference between the two track sections. <S> If this is the case it may be required to loosen all the bolts on the lower track section to see if it can drop down just enough to eliminate the interference. <S> In the worst case it may be necessary to file or grind off part of the top edge of the vertical track. <S> This would be best achieved by completely removing the track section so you can work on it. <S> Be aware that it is rather standard that there are bolts in the track area to permit assembling the whole track and brackets. <S> Contrary to another answer here that suggests that the bolt there is someones "fix" <S> it is normal that there be a bolt there. <S> In my own garage both the upper curve and lower vertical section are bolted to the bracket and are adjustable. <S> From my picture you can see how the tracks are perfectly aligned and the rollers are rubbing on the bolt heads every time they go by. <A> I'm a residential garage door installer in the Detroit area, been doing it for over 14 years. <S> Like what Jim the commercial guy said, your issue is the alignment of the two tracks. <S> Loosening the bolt pulled the lower track forward. <S> If it's pitched inward where the joint is that will also cause the door to hang up at the joint. <S> I would try to realign the track first before doing anything drastic. <S> The fact that the track is colored and the bolt is not means nothing. <S> The track could have either been powder-coated by the manufacturer or a previous homeowner might have decided to paint it, either way the bolt does not need to match the color. <S> If the bolt is a problem try changing it out for one with a flatter head. <S> Although from the picture it would appear that your door is probably 50-plus years old, and I highly doubt a bolt that has been there the entire time is suddenly a problem. <S> If anything the bolt loosened and that allowed the track to slip, causing your hang-up problem. <S> If the bolt is bad <S> it's simply because it's stripped out not because it's a different color. <S> One trick to get the bottom track to slide forward would be to put the claw of a hammer into the bracket with the head pressed up against the door jamb, loosen the bolt and pry gently with the hammer to pull the bottom track out and then re-tighten the bolt. <S> Sorry <S> it's so long-winded, hopefully it helps. <A> The track has failed there and that bolt is someone's repair. <S> Another option may be to drill a countersink and fit a screw with a flatter head that will be flush or close to flush to the track. <A> Check your cables, both of you who put pictures in. <S> There is enough play in a properly installed door that those bolts do not come close to causing a problem. <S> The door looks like it is crooked, which happens when one of the cables is longer than the other. <S> This could be from the cable unraveling, one is broken or poor install. <S> I would reccomend hiring a professional to fix damaged cables because they are attached to the spring and can be very dangerous. <A> Looking at the rubbing on the bolt and the rubbing on the track above, it looks to me that the bolt is in the way of the roller. <S> But there is another mounting hole just below and to the left of the bolt that you have circled. <S> There is no corresponding hole in the bracket behind, however. <S> Without removing the lower track, I would drill that hole through the bracket, using the hole in the track as a guide for the drill bit. <S> I would then remove the bolt from the original hole to this new hole. <S> This should mean that the bolt holding the lower track is now out of the way of the roller. <A> Get a new track bolt first off to put there <S> Yes loosen the track and align the jointsMake them a smooth junction Change a few rollers . <S> long stem 2 inch nylon can buy a pack of 10 for 10.00 Amazon Lube your moving parts on your door. <S> That has nothing to do with squaring up door <S> If door is out of square .yes <S> square by slipping a drum to get door aligned or square in openingGet a nice flat headed track bolt
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I would remove that bolt, then re-seat the track so that the channel shape matches and weld it so it has a smooth run without any bolt there. Another thing that very well might be going on is the bracket might not be level.
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Do I need to replace the wall after a shower head leak? So I was going to replace my shower head, but it was on there pretty good and started twisting the shower arm. I twisted the shower arm back into place maybe too tight and tested the water and didn't see any leaking. I was going to buy a new shower arm the next day and install, but I never told my wife to not use the shower so the next day while she showered it broke at the threads in the wall. She turned off the water called me, but it was to late. The downstairs ceiling already had water damage because it came down through the two water pipe holes in the wood above. I cut out a piece of the drywall ceiling so I could make sure the leaked stopped and dry it out. Now I'm wondering if I need to replace the wall between the shower and bathtub because mildew, etc. The walls on the outside don't show signs of water damage. Would the water that sprayed out just fall below and I shouldn't have to worry about the wall between the shower and tub? Are the walls usually something other then normal drywall on both sides? I used a fan to blow air into the shower arm hole. Does anyone know if that would be enough or I need to rip apart the wall? Thanks. <Q> Chances are very good that the inside of the wall is just "regular sheetrock", and that will have gotten very wet. <S> That fan setup is pretty cool and should dry it out since you were smart enough to cut a hole in the ceiling. <S> Mold grows in areas that get wet and take a long time to dry. <S> Once it's dry you can spray a mold preventative in the cavity just to be sure. <S> More on the sheetrock... <S> Builders use "green rock" ( <S> many names, but the front face is green most of the time) in wet locations. <S> The front face is moisture and mold resistant, but the back of the drywall is plain, brown paper. <S> Your water hit the plain paper. <S> Many remodelers will use a cement board to replace the old drywall because it's a much better material that they can warrantee, but only a very high quality builder would use that, and chances of it happening go down with the age of the house. <A> The fact that the water drained out is good news. <S> This means there isn't a large volume trapped in a stud bay. <S> I would dump some silica beads in there to absorb moisture and keep the fan running. <S> If you get it dried out fairly soon <S> you won't have mold (or much mold), and there won't be a need to demolish the walls. <S> Leaks occur in homes all the time, and unless it's an ongoing problem or isn't quickly addressed it doesn't need to be considered a catastrophe. <S> Like others have said, you probably don't have regular drywall behind that nice tile, so it's not going to turn to mush on you. <A> I believe a more durable, water-resistant material is used for shower/tub/bathroom walls. <S> (See Cement board .) <S> You should definitely consider a replacement of the walls, and a full drying of the intra-wall space, especially depending on where you are. <S> Using US-based locations, Florida and other humid locations may have serious potential for liquid-based hazards in confined spaces (mold etc.), while Arizona or other very dry locations may naturally dry if simply opened. <S> A trustworthy local contractor should be able to offer significant insight into whether or not deep intrusion was likely, and could also inspect the location. <S> I realize this is diy se, but some things are better touched than described online. <S> Even if significant amounts of water were not discharged, if enough water went into the wrong places in the wrong environment, the problems could become quite serious over time. <S> (Source: A local contractor and friend helped fix significant water damage to a house where there was minimal visible effect, and even multiple fixes had already been applied ... but the intra-wall moisture had never been dealt with.)
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If you can quickly and completely dry out a surface, it should be fine.
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What would happen if I build a half bath without permits? What happens if we build a half bath in Minneapolis without getting permits for any of the work? Specifically, if we intend to sell the home at some point in the coming years? <Q> Non-expert information ahead... <S> For the most part, nothing happens... immediately. <S> People do work without permits all the time. <S> Sometimes its very major work, sometimes it's just a "technicality" and the permit is kinda silly. <S> Often, no one finds out and no one asks. <S> I'm not saying it's ok <S> - just saying it happens. <S> But, since you are planning to sell soon, you really should make sure it's all on the level. <S> Say the buyer has an inspector come by and he finds any little silly issue with the work. <S> A good Realtor would ask for the permits on the recent work. <S> If you don't have them it turns into a huge negotiation tool. <S> It might not even be an inspector. <S> Then let's say that you don't sell the house and you live there. <S> A pipe in the shower springs a leak <S> and you call the insurance company. <S> Strange - we don't have a record of that extra bathroom. <S> Where are the permits for the work? <S> Oh, no permits for this illegal addition? <S> That's not covered, and furthermore, we are dropping the policy and reporting this to your lender. <S> Of course cases like that are rare, and that's why people skate by and don't get permits and claim, heck <S> I've never pulled a permit and never had an issue! <S> Like so many building rules <S> , that's right <S> - you never have an issue at all, until you have a big, huge expensive issue. <A> Can you - probably, if you don't require any outside contractors. <S> Should you - likely not. <S> Local to me, one example is roughly $60-70 for the permit, but both retroactively and until a permit is issued once they do notice - $50/day. <A> That is a question for the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) <S> i.e. Your local authority who issues the permits. <S> Their requirements vary. <S> If you are asking "is evading the permit process worth it?", ask local contractors. <S> They certainly would prefer not to pull permits if they don't have to. <S> Obviously towns are trying to make it "not worth it". <S> In our town they will condemn the occupancy until you demolish the unpermitted work... and to add insult to injury, you must pull a permit to do the demolition. <S> And then pull another permit for whatever new work is necessary to return the house to a habitable state. <A> I enclosed the patio of my previous house after we failed to sell it (was after the great real estate crash of 2009, when little real estate was moving). <S> I went through the hassle of getting a permit, as well as a licensed electrician who could pull a electrical permit. <S> It does indeed help avoid issues when trying to sell, as there's an official record as well as inspections . <S> The building permit for me was a percentage of the cost of materials. <S> I had just placed the order with a local lumberyard <S> so I knew my total. <S> Since we were only building two walls, my costs were low and my permit was a whopping $10. <S> They gave me the permit <S> and I really only kept it in the window for the building inspection itself. <S> The electrician was pricey (about 30% of the project, given the low costs), but everything was up to code. <S> The city had just updated a spec on pancake boxes for fans (caught the electrician off guard, but it was a simple fix with open walls) and mandated AFCI breakers on the new stuff. <S> What this does is to help insulate you against future liability. <S> If there was a permit and inspections, everything was above board. <S> It makes it much harder for a lawyer to come back and sue you, as you can pull permit documentation and inspections. <S> Otherwise, you get to argue it was working fine for you up until you moved. <A> As others have stated, it's not always a good idea, but people get away with not getting them all the time. <S> As a general rule, if you're touching plumbing or electrical, I recommend checking with your local jurisdiction and getting one if they require it - and they most likely will - just to cover yourself when it comes to potential future insurance claims. <A> Can't speak to Minneapolis, but where I live the seller of a house signs a disclosure about non-permitted work. <S> If you lie, and get caught, you may be very sorry. <S> But "many things".
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Most places that expect you to file permits will fine you heavily from the earliest date they can figure you started the work on, to a tune that is FAR more than simply getting the permit in the first place would have cost you. Depending on [many things] you can do non-permitted work, not lie, and the buyer will be happy anyway. Someone could just notice the recent work or see that the number of bathrooms has changed.
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rust-proof solution for attaching 2x4 to 4x4? What screws can I use to securely attach a 2"x4" to a 4"x4" treated lumber? The solution would need to be rust-proof. I recently used a structure similar to the image below for a small fence, but some of the screws are completely full of rust, due to treated wood humidity and the environment. I have to change that. I was thinking of screws but any other solution is appreciated. <Q> People use the wrong screws outside quite a lot, but thankfully there are good alternatives. <S> Outdoor decking and fencing are commonly assembled with coated screws advertised for such. <S> They typically come in tan or green depending on the application and can hold up for a long time without rust or staining the wood. <S> Stainless steel screws are another option for even more rust prevention, but they will be quite a bit more expensive. <S> This is pretty over the top unless you're building a boat dock or similar. <S> For larger fasteners, hot-dipped galvanized lag bolts are good. <S> Galvanized screws might exist, but I'm not familiar with them. <S> Certainly you can get galvanized nails, but I think that the coated deck screws must have filled the need that galvanized screws would have because I never see them. <A> I've used them many times on all types of lumber with great results. <S> But screwing into end grain never works well, put a piece of 2x4 into each corner and screw into the sides of it. <S> The joint will be much stronger. <A> In addition to the previous two answers, I recommend against galvanized hardware in pressure treated wood unless the packaging specifically indicates that they are suitable for that use. <S> Afaik only hot dipped galvanized is suitable for use with PT, nails are often electrogalvanized.
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Stainless steel deck screws will not rust.
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Chandelier socket removal for arm replacement Hi I need to remove this light socket from a crystal chandelier I’m restoring. I need to replace one of the arms and I can’t seem to figure out how to get this weird screw loose. Everything I’ve looked up so far tells me to unscrew it but there isn’t a traditional screw it’s this weird Allan wrench shape on one side and completely smooth and flat on the other side. I hope I make sense. I need to fix this quick so any info would be greatly appreciated. <Q> That bracket is riveted on. <S> You could drill it out, but you'll have no good way to reattach it to a new socket anyway. <S> Often candelabra sockets come with pre-attached brackets like that (sometimes threaded for a pipe nipple, other times slotted for a screw - hard to say which that is). <S> You shouldn't need to drill out the rivet to remove the wiring. <A> That's a rivet, not a screw. <S> You'll have to drill the end off to get it out. <A> The chandelier manufacturer bought these socket assemblies pre-made. <S> So clearly there's a way to disassemble it without disturbing the rivet.
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Best option would be to remove the whole thing together if possible and try to find a matching one at the hardware store (I know my local store has a good variety of such sockets with attached brackets from Servalite). That is a rivet, which was set in a rivet press at the factory which manufactured the socket.
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Flickering CFL on 3-way switch 2 three way switches control two cfl fixtures (2x13W) in stairwell. 1 Switch and light at top and 1 of each at bottom. Power(black) into to Switch 1, then Red and Black to Switch 2, then black to Light 1, then White continues on to Light 2 via Switch 2 box, and back to Neutral from panel at Switch 1. Removing light 1 from circuit stops light 2 from flickering. Voltage measured across Switch 2, hot wire to Common (black to Light 1), is 120V when open (off), and ~20V when closed (on). Lights are in series, is this my problem? <Q> The lights should be hooked up in parallel, not in series. <A> You've made a circle. <S> That's not allowed in AC power, and for good reason. <S> The white wire is spare from SW1 - SW2 - L2. <S> You need to use that for neutral instead of having the white shortcut from L1 to SW1. <S> Yes, that means the white "doubles back" physically and travels 3 sides of a square. <S> The operating principle is Currents should be equal and opposite in each cable or conduit . <S> No loops; tree topology only. <S> If hot goes up a branch, neutral must come back that branch. <S> In other words wiring should be (if straightened out) /-----y-----\ <S> / \SUP---b---SW1- <S> -----y------SW2 <S> ----r-----L2-----r-----L1 <S> \ <S> | <S> / \--w----+-------w-------+-----w-----+------w---/ b = <S> Always-hot <S> w = <S> y = <S> Travelers (will be black or red; remark them yellow) <S> r = Switched-hot (will be black; remark red) <S> Fix <S> that first because it's impossible to even diagnose the other problem while this problem is so broken. <S> If you have been wiring with individual wires somehow, stop doing that. <S> Individual wires aren't listed for direct use. <A> Are your neutrals connected to both lights by pigtails and spliced together in both switch boxes? <S> If not, any voltage on the neutral might be interfering with getting proper voltage across the bulb. <S> Otherwise I'd check all connections for good, clean contact and tightness by removing and retightening all wire nuts. <S> I've had it happen to me where trying to get 3 #12 wires into a yellow wire nut (which is supposed to handle that) <S> actually pushed one of the wires back just enough that it barely made contact with the others. <S> This lead to one outlet in the middle of a wall not working consistently, but all the others were fine. <S> Took half an hour to figure out, half a minute to fix.
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Doesn't sound like the lights are wired in series. True Neutral (must be white) If you follow my color advice, things get a whole lot easier , especially if 3-way circuits are involved, which (without wire remarking) are confusing on a good day.
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How do you reinforce round deck footings? I'm building a covered deck on some weak soil (clay/sandy clay). I'm going to use 24" round footings that I was planning on reinforcing with a bunch of left over rebar. How can I effectively reinforce my footings? My though was to just cut a few lengths and tie them together using wire in an tic tac toe grid. Is there a better way to do it? I've dug my holes 5ft deep and prep'd the ground by laying fabric in the bottom, then pouring in gravel and road crush and tamping it all down. <Q> Really there's no need the footings will not see any tensile or flexing loads. <S> Be sure to tie the posts into the footing. <S> That's all that's needed. <S> if the post is being embedded in the concrete you could pass some bar through it (drill a hole). <A> The pattern of the rebar is not to critical as long as you have enough of it <S> and it is all tied together. <S> I usually make a cage, 4 stick of vertical RB tied together with horizontal pieces, both near the top and bottom. <S> The vertical RB needs to be far enough apart to allow the post bracket to be set in the concrete. <S> For 24" you may want more then 4 vertical or an inner cage and an out cage. <S> 5 feet down is good ( unless code for your area dictates deeper ) and 24 <S> " footings is more then enough for a deck, 12" would be OK and 16 would be big enough. <S> Even though you have the holes already dug <S> You can go with the smaller sonotube and back fill around them, compact the back fill well. <A> Depends how good you want it. <S> You can do it with a mesh/grid instead, but it won't do quite as good of a job. <S> You should still have bent bars connecting the two parts.
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Typical would be to bend L shaped bars to tie footing to column, with the foot of the L radial, and tie rings (a fancier bending job) or octagons to those radials.
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Trying to install 2 smart switches but neutral wires in box are not connected I'm trying to install 2 smart wifi switches to replace 2 dumb switches in a box. 1 switch powers a dining room light. The other switch powers two kitchen lights that turn on/off together. As expected, I found 3 wire bundles entering the box (with 2 wires in each sheath, one black and one white). One of the black wires is hot (connected to a red nut). 2 of the black wires are loads going to the lights. All of these wires are on the same circuit because they are run through the same breaker. This all makes sense to me. However, I expected the 3 white (presumably neutral) wires to be connected in a bundle. I would then tap that bundle for the smart switches, but they are individually capped. They also have a small amount of voltage in them when I tested them with a voltmeter. But all the lights and switches work with the dumb switches, so there doesn't seem to be a problem. My question is: should I bundle the 3 white wires together? Was that just an oversight when they were being installed? And then can I tap that bundle for smart switches? How can I be sure the 3 white wires are the right neutrals? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q8FRJ96/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3KD59IVUZ5TBM&psc=1 Here is the smart switch I would like to install. I don't have the manual yet because I don't want to buy it until I'm sure it will work. I confirmed that this box is not grounded and does not have a ground wire. And updating with pictures of two of the three lights. The third is hard to disassemble, but its wiring runs with one of the two pictured. These all look standard to me. Black with black, white with white, and grounded to the box. All lights work. Note that although the wiring in the box look new, these wires likely were originally installed many decades ago. The house was built in the 1920s but has been updated over time, so the wiring could be quite old. enter image description here <Q> Depends on the previous electrical installations, electrician/installator... <S> with smart switches is exactly the same, depends on the model of the smart switch. <S> Some need that neutral wire, others not. <S> But the vast majority of smart switches require that neutral wire. <S> I'd connect the dining room neutral wire to the smart switch <S> (let's just say A) <S> and then other 2 together under one cap plus a white wire which goes to the other smart switch B. Remember <S> all the neutral wires that are connected should belong to a single circuit. <A> Watch Out for Unlisted Switches <S> The linked switch is advertised as: CE, FCC, ROHS, CQC Certified <S> CE - Means <S> nothing (Harper has his own creative definition) <S> FCC - Related to radio frequency interference but tells you nothing about electrical safety <S> ROHS - <S> No hazardous substances (e.g., mercury, lead, etc.) <S> but tells you nothing about electrical safety <S> CQC - Not sure what this one is. <S> But probably nothing to do with electrical safety What you generally want to see is UL Listed. <S> Possibly ETL or something else as an alternative. <S> This doesn't matter as much for plug-in devices <S> - you can unplug them if they start smoking. <A> This is not a legal installation. <S> A current carrying wire must be bundled with the return path. <S> That is if you map out the path that the current takes then the area inside the circuit must be as small as possible. <S> Otherwise there will be a magnetic field generated by the loop. <S> To fix this situation you would need to find where those 3 romex cables end up and route the neutral through the switch box properly. <A> These neutral wires should be bundled together (assuming they are neutrals - this is weird enough that we shouldn't assume anything though) <S> Since the wire doesn't even seem to have a ground <S> (I really hope they didn't clip them off at the edge of the sheathing <S> - I had a couple outlet boxes where that was done in my house and wound up having to fish new Romex just to properly replace standard grounded outlets), I'm not sure how they could have gotten the lights to even function without them (and if the lights are using ground as a neutral, this is wrong and needs to be corrected). <S> Definitely looks like 14/2 Romex coming into the box, not BX. <S> There must be another neutral in the lights' boxes that they're using instead, but it's better to use the appropriate neutral instead. <S> If there's truly no ground wire, you should use non-conductive (ie plastic) screws to fasten the switch plate to prevent shocks.
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Some locations (switches) may have a neutral, others may not. But for something permanently installed, it is a big deal. Also note that NEC requires all metal boxes to be grounded if a ground wire passes through them.
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How can I prevent water trail stains on bathroom drywall? In an upstairs bathroom, I found these water trail stains on a wall. There's no plumbing behind the wall so I imagine these are from humidity. What I'm curious about is whether there's any way to prevent such stains from occurring. Is there a special type of paint, or a water-resistant drywall, that can prevent this? <Q> As Kris said in a comment, the solution is to not let that much moisture accumulate. <S> Run a well-performing bath fan every time you use the shower, even in the dead of winter. <S> Vary run duration accordingly. <S> In my part of the world this means 2-4 hours in summer and at least a quarter of an hour (after the shower ends) in winter. <S> It shouldn't be expected to hold water, whether on the floor or the walls. <A> A gloss paint would minimize this type of staining, but will do nothing for other issues humidity can cause (ie mold and rot). <S> As others have said, ventilate! <S> In the winter, simply leaving the bathroom door open is enough for my house (but then, I don't have kids, so <S> the shower isn't running for more than an hour every day, and the bathroom is empty for long periods of time - ymmv). <A> Ventilation is key to preventing moisture from building up in a bathroom. <S> The vent may be blocked, or the fan itself is not working properly, or does not move enough air (CFM) for the size of the room. <S> If so, then the fan would need to be replaced. <S> If it simply is not running long enough, the fan could be tied into the lightswitch so it automatically turns on when the light is on. <S> You could also install a timer on the fan so it will run for a longer period of time. <S> If there is a window in the bathroom, opening it can also help drying things out. <S> The paint in the bathroom could also be a problem. <S> If you are getting stains that won't wash off, you most likely have a mold problem. <S> The surface of the wall will need to be cleaned off with something that will kill the mold spores such as a cleaner with bleach, or a product specifically designed to kill mold. <S> If you want to be extra vigilant, you can also use a mold killing primer. <S> For the topcoat, a paint that is specifically made for kitchen and bath is recommended. <S> I also would recommend using a satin or eggshell finish that can be cleaned with a sponge. <S> There is special type of drywall that is mold and moisture resistant. <S> Obviously, that would require completely replacing the existing drywall, which is not economical. <S> It is not necessary to install that type of drywall unless it comes in direct contact with water, such as in a shower stall, or as a tile backer. <S> It used to be common practice to use water resistant drywall behind tile, but nowadays most people use a cement backer board instead. <S> Repainting the room is most likely going to fix the problem with the stains. <A> I had this same issue in my kids' bathroom. <S> Being teens, they often forget or neglect to turn on the bath vent. <S> I solved the issue by buying and installing thin plexiglass and covering the drywall areas above the tub/shower surround. <S> I caulked the edges and seams. <S> This works well and only cost me about $20-30 and an hour of effort. <S> This also works during power outages.
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If moisture still accumulates on the walls, then at least it won't cause mold issues. Either the vent fan may not be running long enough, or it is moving an inadequate amount of air. As I often say, your bathroom isn't a bathtub. I would then suggest priming the walls and ceiling with a latex primer that is rated for interior and exterior use (low VOC).
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What are my options for dealing with/getting rid of storage items I do not want/need? I am moving into a new house and have some movers moving all of my stuff out of storage and bringing it into my house. Unfortunately, there are some large furniture items (couch, table, etc...) that I do not want/need in my new place. I am apathetic about what happens to these items. Ideally, I'd like to give them to charity, but do not want (nor have the means) to drive them to a charity location. I could throw them out, but again I do not have the means to transport them a disposal site. I could sell them (via Facebook marketplace or something) but I do not want them placed in my house because it will be difficult to move them out of the house once they are inside and finding a buyer may take a while. Can I just leave them outside? Will the moving company even allow me to elect to have them not be moved into my home? What can I do? Keeping them in storage is not an option. <Q> You are responsible to see the items all the way to their final disposition. <S> Yes, it's a pain, but you have to do it. <S> You can ask the city if they can do a special garbage pickup. <S> You can call your normal garbage company and ask them about a special pickup. <S> You can rent a dumpster short-term and fill that. <S> You can ask your movers to dispose of the items in their dumpster, <S> however, if they dump the items down some alley instead, and the government catches you, you will be fined heavily even though you acted in good faith . <S> You can put a "free stuff" listing on Craigslist, Freecycle, Nextdoor etc. -- <S> but if the stuff is not taken, you are still responsible for its disposal. <S> If you are renting, you can walk away from the stuff. <S> The landlord will hire movers to remove it, and bill the cost of this to you. <S> Taking the items to Goodwill/charity is probably a lose; they are glutted with excess furniture, so they are very picky what they'll take. <S> If you abandon the items at a house you are selling, it could interfere with closing, and at least, the buyer could sue you in small claims for the disposal costs. <S> "Broom clean" is the standard for both sold houses and rentals; look it up. <S> My best advice is if you don't want to dispose of it, don't buy it in the first place. <A> When I have things I no longer want I place it by the curb and post on Nextdoor for anyone to pick it up. <S> Even good stuff I would rather give away than to try and plan all that it takes to try and make money. <S> I also call all of the charities and most will pick up. <S> but the structure was in good shape <S> so I advertise on Nextdoor for it to be used in a camp house or garage area. <S> Usually if I put them in my alley people who have rear entry drives will see them and they rarely stay more than a day. <A> Post an ad (online <S> and/or wherever is free to sell that stuff), sell them for free with one condition, the buyer must pick up the item/s at that specific location. <S> Don't know if you're in a rush or not, but there are always people willing to collect stuff to use it, to donate it to somebody even to resell it. <S> Even you could contact with a charity organization an offer your stuff for free with that condition.
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You can hire "get rid of your junk" companies to make it go away; they may try where possible to profit from its sale, however the same warning applies. There are always people looking for that kind of stuff for free. Recently Goodwill picked up some things but they would not take my chairs because they had worn places and they had no way to repair it
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How should I disconnect my gas stove? We want to replace our natural gas stove with an electric stove. I've never worked with gas lines before, and the installers who will deliver the electric stove won't disconnect the gas stove for us. When I go to disconnect the stove, are there steps I should do in a particular order? The gas line from the (outdoors) meter goes straight into the garage for the furnace and water heater. Right before entering the garage it tees off to another line for the kitchen, and there's a shutoff valve for that kitchen line only (I suspect the kitchen line was added about 5-6 years ago when a previous owner remodeled the kitchen; the house itself is about 30 years old in a large cookie-cutter neighborhood). The kitchen line runs around the outside of the house, and is probably about 80-100 feet long. Then there's a shutoff valve inside the kitchen where the stove connects to the gas line. When I disconnect the stove, does it matter which order I shut off the two valves (inside; and where the kitchen line starts outside)? Should the stove be running when I start closing valves? Once both valves are off and I disconnect the flexible hose to the stove, I'll cap the line where I disconnected the stove, too. <Q> Considering the fact that you've never worked with gas lines, contact the gas company. <S> They will probably come out and disconnect it for you and then check for leaks from your valves. <A> This is a very simple task as long as you are legally allowed to disconnect the stove (many places allow you to install your own appliances). <S> I think that people are unreasonably afraid of "working on gas", but <S> you're not actually working on something - you're turning off a valve. <S> So, turn off the valve that leads to the kitchen, then turn off the valve going to the stove. <S> Once you have the correct size cap, tighten it onto the end of the valve <S> and you're done. <S> If you smell any gas after the initial disconnect, then call in someone to inspect it, but that would mean that you just happen to have two defective gas valves and <S> you did a bad job putting the safety cap on the valve. <A> Step 1. <S> Step 2. <S> Sleep well <S> knowing you won't die in your sleep or blow your house to kingdom come. <S> This just is not something you want to take any chances with just to save $50. <S> Jack is right.
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Call the gas co. service to do it for you. Disconnect the flex line from the wall and the stove so you can take it with you to get a cap to put over the valve.
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Is it a problem if a bookcase isn’t fully touching the floor? IKEA assemblers have screwed a large bookcase (180cm height x 160cm width x 40cm depth) into my wall where the top is 10mm from the wall and the base is 17mm from from wall, meaning the bookcase doesn’t sit squarely on the floor and the outer edge is lifted by around 3-4mm. Should I be worried? Should I be worried the screws in the wall or the bookcase gets damaged? <Q> I quite commonly install shims to support the front of (brand-agnostic) bookcases so they are leaning towards the wall, not away from it. <S> Should be trivial to get a pack of shims (thin wooden wedges - narrow wooden shingles) and properly support the front of this bookcase as installed. <A> From what I understand the bookcase is sitting on the floor but the front edge of the bottom is a little lifted? <S> I would not be worried. <S> If you are worried chuck a few shims under it. <S> Each screw is probably rated in excess of 50lbs of pull out, even if the bookcase somehow pulled forward you could just add some washer to the screws and re-secure it. <S> Small children have died from small dressers falling on them for that reason and ikea has recalled some due to the forward center of gravity which if not secured to walls makes it quite easy for them to fall forward if the drawers are opened and loaded. <S> Other than the tip <S> forward there isn't much point to being secured to the wall. <S> I suspect that is not the case. <S> Also most of the weight on a bookcase is likely to be loaded to the back of the bookcase. <A> The answer is going to depend on the construction of the shelf and load capacity of the mounting brackets, but I don't like your chances. <S> It sounds like the installer did a poor job, and I would have it re-installed if I were in your shoes.
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Screwing to the wall prevents the bookcase from falling forward on you - most people don't bother securing bookcases to the walls. The only time I'd be worried was if aesthetically the book case looked like it was tipped forward but given the minimal difference on the front edge
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Extending wood studs or adding wood to cover over the studs So the problem is this. I bought a house and it has this super awesome movie room. When I moved in, I took my stud finder out and it wasn't working on that side of the wall, but it was working on the other side. I took the recessed power plug off the wall and looked inside to find the studs are actually 1 to 2 inches back. The drywall is not tight to the studs... I do not want to hang a 65 to 75 inch TV on drywall. This seems like a recipe for disaster. So the question is... How do I do this? Some ideas are... extend the studs or possibly secure another 2 by 4 to the side ofthe studs that are already there, then redo that portion of thedrywall Cut out a rectangle of the drywall and attach a 2 by 4 to the front of the studs so it's like a "T". If I can get the right size piece of wood then that could be flush with the wall and can be painted to match the black wall. something that you guys think of This needs to be able to support a 75 to 100 pound TV mounted to it. This makes me nervous and I don't know what the best practices would be. If I go with #2, should I glue it on, then add some nails or screws to attach it to the drywall better? I can't clamp the 2 by 4 to the studs so I'm not sure how effective that would be. <Q> There are special metal framing members running perpendicular to the studs. <S> They are secured to the studs that allows an air space between the wallboard and stud. <S> You can google it. <A> The gap between drywall and studs may be to help with soundproofing - the solid stud to drywall connection conducts sound much better than a thinner connection - but there must be something <S> somewhere <S> holding up the drywall. <S> You really have a number of possible fixes. <S> The variation is basically how much wood, how much drywall and how much patching/painting. <S> Since this will be covered by a TV, plywood plus a couple of coats of black paint should work quite well - it doesn't need to be the kind of perfect smooth finish of a regular wall since nobody will be looking directly at it. <S> Pick a rectangular area going across at least 2 studs (typically 16" apart) that will be covered by the TV. <S> You can drill small pilot holes with a long bit to make sure you can get to the studs so you don't rip apart the wall in a bad spot. <S> Cut a strip of drywall horizontally from one stud to the next with the height matched to the width of the wood you are going to use (e.g., 3-1/2" for 2x4). <S> Measure the depth needed to get from the studs through the drywall. <S> If it is a 1" gap + 1/2" drywall then 2x4 (1-1/2" thick) will work perfectly but if the gap is bigger then you will need thicker wood or two layers. <S> Cut 2x4s (or other wood) to length and screw into at least two studs. <S> Repeat at a second spot lower (or higher) on the wall at least a few inches away but preferably close to the full height of the TV. <S> Cut a piece of plywood just big enough (perhaps an inch or two larger all around) to cover the 2 strips of wood. <S> Paint to match the rest of the wall. <S> The great thing about plywood is you can screw into it anywhere - you no longer have to worry about whether you are over the studs. <S> This is normal for mounting telephone & networking equipment in wiring closets and will work well for mounting TVs too. <A> You are guaranteed to have studs behind the drywall. <S> How else would the drywall stay in place? <S> Take a rare earth magnet and run it along the wall until you hit a drywall screw or nail or if you can see a slight dimple in the face of the drywall you'll know a stud is there. <S> Probably as other people have noted this is a party wall and there are two sets of studs, one for your side and one for the other side, that help with noise transmission. <S> You could use toggle bolts and likely never have a problem with 75 pounds, if you look on the packages they rate each toggle at 40lbs of direct pull our or 75 pounds if the force is perpendicular. <S> I personally wouldn't go that route. <S> I'd find a stud and set my mount to it.
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If the stud doesn't sit where you'd like to center the tv then either go with the sheet of plywood that is secured to the studs or open the drywall and add a cross piece. That wall system is a “sound control” system. The metal stripping is called “RC-1 channel “.
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GFCI conversion trouble: receptacle not screwing into outlet support plate I'm trying to convert old "razor only" receptacles to GFCI protected ones in bathrooms. Since the old outlets are large 2-gang 4" boxes, I had to get GFCI conversion kits ( manufacturer's specs ) with a 2-gang, 1 centered receptacle support plate and wall plate: The problem : the holes where the new GFCI receptacle should screw in (the small circles in the support plate at the right in the image above) are untapped. It is extremely difficult to screw in the receptacle's screws into those holes.The hole size seems about right, matching the shaft diameter of the screw without the threads. A 7/64" drill bit slides smoothly in the hole. The receptacle's screws are tapered at the tips and they can get the threading started, but it gets stuck quickly. I tried using the old receptacle's screws to continue the threading and it is so difficult that the screw head broke. I also found another switch with what appear to be self-tapping screws of the same thickness and threading, and they can't even get started. I unfortunately don't have taps. I also thought of drilling the holes a bit larger, but the next drill bit size seems to be 1/8" which looks too big. Am I missing something? I would think this must be a standardized part that is meant for simple installation without so much difficulty or additional steps such as thread tapping. For example, this how-to guide . <Q> You may just need a better support plate, like this one from Home Depot : <S> " Mounting holes are pre-tapped to accept devices faster " <A> It sounds like, from the huge amount of discussion in the comments, that you have already expended enough energy on this to have been able to go to the store and buy the necessary tap. <S> The tap you need will likely cost just a few US dollars. <S> The tap size needed for US style electrical fixture mounting screws is #6 - 32 NC. <S> You can even use the small tap by clamping its top square tang into a small pair of vice grip pliers in the case you want to avoid buying the special tapping tool holder. <S> You use the tap very similar to the way you have been trying to use screws to make threads in the holes of the cover plate. <S> Screw the tap in place about 3/4 to 1 turn and then reverse it back 1/4 turn before proceeding in the forward direction again. <A> Remember you can just fit a GFCI upstream of here <S> All GFCI devices have the ability to protect downline locations. <S> So if you know where this outlet location is fed from , then you can simply fit the GFCI device there instead , and leave the receptacle as you found it or use a plain receptacle. <S> I mention that because a lot of people don't think it's GFCI protected unless there's a GFCI receptacle right here . <S> That's not true. <S> This is the only decent solution I have seen ... to the GFCI/Decora into a 4" box problem. <S> I'm sorry that ABB didn't tap it, and this does seem like a weird oversight for such a prestigious company, but this thing is such a win otherwise. <S> The problem with other shallow plates is they provide nowhere for the Decora cover plate screws to go , which go just outboard of the receptacle mounting screws. <S> So you wind up with Decora cover plates missing, or floppy-doppy, and then they cut you or get broken. <S> No thanks. <S> Domed 4" covers (which are their own cover-plate) <S> force you to mutilate the GFCI - <S> the ears that catch the cover screws are too tall to fit under the dome, so you must break them off. <S> This means you will never be able to use the GFCI anywhere else. <S> Some do not. <S> So learn to tap <S> You need a #6-32 tap, and a tap holder to match, and these are just a few bucks. <S> When tapping, whenever you run into a spike of torque resistance, just "back off" 1/2 turn. <S> That lets the chips clear out of the cut. <S> Taps come in gradual, normal and short (bottoming). <S> Don't use bottoming. <S> Normal is fine. <S> If you're in school, see if the school has a "maker space". <S> They probably have a set of taps.
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Deeper "mud rings" only work if you're lucky and the mud ring itself allows for those Decora screw positions.
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Why has my electricity bill doubled? In recent months, my electricity bill has been steadily going up, from 20% to 40% to, now, 100%. It's doubled. I don't see any appliance running continuously except several ceiling fans. All my appliances are regular, meaning what one would find at home, such as fridges, cooktop, water heater, oven, lights, etc. There is a pool pump I turn on and off daily. Where should I start to tackle the problem? I have divided this problem into two categories: house appliance problem and meter problem. I'd like to see if this is appliance problem first and deal with the meter separately. The meter is read monthly on the 20th. So, the bill jump is real, not estimated. <Q> This happened to me numerous years ago - my bill went from $135 one month to $300 or so the next month. <S> Just by pure luck in trying to determine what was wrong, I went into my attic and found that a air vent had come loose and was happily streaming cold air straight into the 100+ degree attic. <S> I fixed that, and the next bill was back to normal. <A> You need to take a close look at your electricity rates and how it works with your electric bill. <S> Start by reviewing the last 6 months' bills. <S> First, read the bill carefully. <S> Then, compare the number of kilowatt-hours used with how much the bill amount is. <S> Special rate plans <S> If the kilowatt-hours stay proportional to the total bill, then you are using more electricity. <S> If the bill goes up a lot more than the kilowatt-hours, then you are on some sort of "rate plan" that punishes peak usage. <S> That is done because peak usage is the most expensive for the power company to produce: they have to spin up power plants that don't get used all year except for this. <S> (And the bank wants the mortgage paid all year). <S> Additional usage <S> The #1 reason for usage to go up "in the last few months" (read: summer) is air conditioning usage. <S> Air conditioners are big users of electricity, and they run quite a lot. <S> If that does not explain it, look for problems that would cause energy use. <S> If your water heater is electric, you may have a hot water leak. <S> You can read up on methods for using your electric meter as a load rate measuring device. <S> That will let you observe rate of electricity use when various appliances are operating. <S> You can also shut off loads at the breaker panel for testing, to see the effect it has. <S> If you want to really automate it, you can get products like the "Sense". <S> They involve equipment that sits in your service panel and collects data about usage of many appliances. <S> You can then generate reports showing which equipment is using how much power. <A> The key starting place is to investigate the kilowatt-hour consumption that you have made in the last few months since your total bill has been going up. <S> You need to evaluate this so that you have a baseline understanding of what you are paying per kilowatt-hour of usage. <S> In addition this consumption data should help to correlate to the total bill increases and your average usage per day. <S> You may also want to record readings from your electrical meter on a daily basis for 10 days or so. <S> This will give you additional current state usage data. <S> Once you understand the usage per day it is time for you to start experimenting with turning off various appliances for a day or two and monitor how your power meter readings change as a result. <S> This will lead to gaining an understanding as to what appliances are the ones contributing the most to the daily consumption. <S> For some appliances that you would not want to turn off for one or two days you can acquire an electrical monitoring meter, such as the popular "Kill A Watt" unit. <S> These plug into the circuit between the appliance cord and the mating outlet. <S> They can measure the voltage, amperage of current flow and compute the kilowatt-hour usage by the particular appliance plugged into the monitoring device. <A> With the time of year being what it is, I have to ask - what about your air conditioning use? <S> My electricity consumption rises about 60% in the summer, peaking in August. <S> In the winter, my natural gas roughly doubles. <S> This is because of heating and cooling costs. <S> Also, clogged air filters can really impact the energy efficiency of your AC. <S> I clean mine weekly because I have a cat that never stops shedding. <S> The same is true for the intake at the back of your fridge, although I'll admit it only gets cleaned annually at my house. <S> Icemakers can also be huge power hogs if you're using them all the time.
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The electric sourcing utility that you are attached to may have increased your electrical usage rate so you might have to factor that into any cost investigation that you do.
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How can I extend a 1.5" galvanized plumbing vent up a 6:12 pitch roof? Relocate to make clear area for solar I'd like to extend the following plumbing penetration to a spot higher on the roof. At this time I have access from above to the pipe embedded in the wall, and access to the roof below the 6" dimensional rafters: I'd like to stick with galvanized and with long sweep elbows if possible, to preserve the ability to snake the fixture from the roof if needed later. 6:12 pitch is 6 inches rise per 12 inches of run, or 26.57 degrees. The pipe comes up vertically, so we're interested in 90 - 26.57 = 63.43 degrees. Will be inspected to California Plumbing Code. Yet, there seems to be no 63.43 degree elbows made ;-) <Q> A pair of elbows of any angle can do the trick. <S> For example, a 90 degree elbow can bend the vertical pipe so that it goes horizontally along the top of the wall. <S> I gave the example with 90 degree elbows but the same principle works with a matched pair of elbows of any angle. <S> The question is whether there's enough room to fit the two-elbow assembly. <S> Depending on how important it is that the vent be moved, you could consider other approaches. <S> It would be technically possible to make the vent stack go back down the wall, under the floor, and rise elsewhere as would be done for a sink in an island, or even to combine it with another existing vent. <S> It may also be acceptable to replace the vent stack with an air admittance valve. <A> I chose to go with a suggestion from AskTheBuilder's Tim Carter, along the lines of @Greg Hill's answer. <S> But it can be done in ABS or PVC: <S> Now I just have to worry about PVC deteriorating in the sun. <S> With this layout I can add one more panel, and have a pleasing layout for the solar. <A> What about using flexible pipe for this section? <S> Something like the Walker (46971) <S> 1-1/2" <S> Diameter x 6' Length Galvanized Flexible Exhaust Tube ? <A> 6/12 pitch is 26.5 deg, not 22.5--so even if available I don't think that'd help you. <S> Perhaps you could buy galvanized pipe and have a local welding shop create the 26.5 deg you need? <S> I don't know but suspect the flex would not meet code. <S> Vents must be air/water tight so that sewer gas cannot leak into the home.
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A second elbow connected to the first can redirect the pipe so it goes parallel to the rafter at any elevation/angle. See Is PVC an acceptable pipe for a vent stack through the roof It unfortunately can't be done in galvanized due to the lack of a 22.5 degree fitting. If it's done with 45 degree angle elbows then the assembly will be narrower, but also taller.
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Should I hang doors before or after drywall? Should I hang doors before or after I hang drywall?What are the pros and cons of each choice? <Q> You wouldn't want some of your most expensive and vulnerable woodwork hanging around through that. <S> Also, the hangers will likely use rotary cutters to zip around door openings. <S> You make that much harder for them if even bare jambs are in place (and again increase the chance of saw or knife damage). <S> Then, there's a huge amount of moisture in the air during taping and painting. <S> Finally, you want to hang your doors with respect to the finished face of the walls. <S> Sometimes slight misalignment of framing, heavy tape joints, and other variance means that you'd shift the jamb slightly from center of the wall for a better outcome. <S> Hang the doors after painting, after hard flooring, and before carpeting. <S> There are no pros to hanging doors before drywall. <A> Always seen hanging doors as one of the “final fix” jobs so they don’t get hit by stuff being carried around. <A> On commercial jobs with steel door frames and steel studs, you install the door frames when framing the walls. <S> On residential jobs with pre-hung doors and wood studs, you frame walls, hang drywall, tape, paint walls then install door frames with pre-hung doors, then install the rest of the millwork. <A> My preferred choice is to hang and finish the drywall, clean the hell out of the area top to bottom, prime and paint both coats of finish on the walls. <S> Then after everything else is done, go through and touch up any problem areas with the paint. <S> If the area gets carpeted I like to let the carpet go in before the last coat of paint. <S> The number of touch ups where the carpet rubs the wall, it's easier just to wait. <S> Then get everything else installed and then touch up last. <S> In the end that will save you hours of cutting in around the trim when you paint. <A> If you're going to use trim on the door frame it doesn't much matter the order you do it. <S> Before - You can paint the opening freely without the frame in the way <S> After - The trim will cover any paint gotten on the frame facing into the room <S> The exception here might be an exterior door. <S> You'll almost always install these before you drywall, let alone paint. <S> You have to install these first and butt the drywall up to them, then caulk after painting.
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Then you hang drywall, tape, paint, then hang doors. You don't really want your woodwork in the building at that time due to the chance of warpage and joint movement after installation. Also means the doorways are wider and less obstructed... There's a huge amount of mess and potential for damage during the hanging, taping, and painting stages. Steel doors have trim that is proud of the wall.
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Choice of processed lumber for large shelves I am looking for recommendations to choose between a diverse spectrum of 3/4" thick plywood-y materials, such as MDF board (or similar) as well as stratified but sanded plywood. In this particular example, my dimensions are around 14"x60" but I have other application with similar area size but different dimensions. I was originally planning to go with joining 2 1x8 sideways using biscuits and than stain it but I'm thinking plywood may be more durable to warping over time, especially because I don't plan to affix the upper shelves so they can be removed. <Q> Here are some of my experiences: 3/4" boards <S> The max commonly available width is going to be 12" (11.25" actual), so for 14" you would have to join two 8" boards ripped to width. <S> This requires more work than the other options and you have to find two very straight boards to start with. <S> They can warp in the future, but glueing and biscuiting two pieces together helps with that. <S> It will be strong and light, but I don't think it's worth the effort unless you're really trying to match materials with something else. <S> Plywood Will be straighter than boards, but it's not immune to warping. <S> Comes wide enough to use one piece and is pretty easy to cut. <S> The cut edge is not acceptable to leave visible. <S> It may sag in the front over that 60" span. <S> Even with a back support thats asking a lot (but wait, there is a solution). <S> MDF <S> Perfectly straight and will never warp. <S> Very easy to cut, although it does create a lot of dust. <S> Same issues as plywood - will sag in front and the cut edge can't be painted easily. <S> MDF must be painted and will be quickly and irreversibly damaged by water if the surface is not sealed (with paint). <S> Recommendations Plywood and MDF are the frontrunners. <S> If you want to stain, use plywood. <S> If you are going to paint. <S> MDF is a good choice. <S> Since neither of them have usable edges, I would glue/biscuit a 1x2 board onto the front edge. <S> This gives the shelf a visible thickness, covers the bad edge and adds some strength to prevent sagging. <S> I still wouldn't trust it to hold heavy items without a center support, but the edge board will at least help it hold its own weight without sagging (and some light items). <A> 60" is too long of a span for 3/4" material even with nothing on the shelves. <S> If they don't sag noticeably immediately from their own weight, they soon will. <S> I would install corbels reaching at least 2/3 depth at the center point for each shelf. <S> Then you can use whatever you like, as almost any 3/4" material will span 30" fairly well. <S> If you really want a free-span shelf, 1-1/8" oak stair treads are what I'd use, and nothing less. <S> They're commonly available in 72" lengths, and you can use either the bullnose front or the square back facing forward. <S> I'd expect around 1/4" sag with a full load of small and medium-sized books. <A> Finish the edge with heat activated veneer, or moulding. <S> What are you putting on the shelves? <S> If you are putting heavy items such as books, 60 inches is too far of a span. <S> I have a 30 inch span that doesn't sag noticeably with books. <S> You could probably go a little more, maybe 40 inches without additional support in the middle. <A> Birch ply has a price comparable with AC pine ply at the same thickness, but is stiffer. <S> It also will take penetrating wood finishes more evenly without conditioners or partial sealers. <S> It's difficult to find in stock in 4*8 sheets, but most stores should be able to special order it. <S> However I'm not sure I'd trust it at that span, either, not for books or anything heavy. <S> I recommend a 3/4" divider in the center, to prevent shelf sagging. <S> I know 20" would be better if using pine or another softwood species. <S> Corbels would also be okay.
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I would use plywood, it is much stronger than MDF.
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How to run 10/2 THHN outdoor wire in finished basement along ceiling? I need a 220v (intermittent load will be 14 A max) single phase outlet about 30 feet from my distribution panel in my finished basement. The distribution panel is outside on the first floor. I do not want to tear out the finished drywall and popcorn ceiling, and running wires inside the ceiling would be impossible without major damage. Is a metal or plastic raceway required along the ceiling? Can the outdoor rated 10/2 THNN wire be run along the ceiling with just hooks, where it is visible? The wire does not run along the wall. What does the NEC require for finished basement wiring along the ceiling? <Q> You need a conduit. <A> Individual wires of any kind require a conduit, raceway, gutter, etc. <S> etc. <S> Regardless, however you plan to mount those wires (draped from hooks?) <S> would also be illegal if you were using cable instead of wire. <S> There is no way to do this in the way you imagine. <S> Homes need utility spaces. <S> When people cashier those spaces to create additional finished/living space, this is the consequence . <S> If you prefer, you could have someone put a drop ceiling in there <S> so you can pop off panels and get access. <A> How to run 10/2 THHN outdoor wire <S> THHN = <S> Thermoplastic HighHeat Nylon <S> coatedTHWN = same but water resistantXHHW = cross linked polyethylene (i.e. PEX) for insulation = <S> tougher than nylon <S> https://wesbellwireandcable.com/Electricalwire/5-types-of-electrical-wire.html <S> you imply stranded wire by saying THHN <S> which in laymen's terms a single wire which per code (and common sense) must be run in some conduit or raceway meeting various requirements (for wire protection) <S> . <S> you say outdoor wire which would imply UF-B . <S> Not unlike NM-B but <S> UF-B is rated for outdoor exposure and burial in the ground, because it's insulation (unlike NM-B) can handle it. <S> So a UF-B rated wire would be what u want it seems to not have to worry about fitting conduit. <S> note nommetalic sheathed cable (NM-B or UF-B) per article 334 prohibits above suspended ceilings in commercial occupancies because contractors are animals with pliers and saws , also any multi-family dwelling exceeding 3 floors. <S> What does the NEC require for finished basement wiring along the ceiling? <S> the NEC is more of a guide and not a how you must do it. <S> There's room for interpretation based on various sections. <S> If a finished occupied living space with a 7' ceiling within arm's reach then NM-B (or UF-B) would reasonably be a no because of likelihood to be contacted. <S> a finished ceiling doesn't necessarily = finished basement. <S> 334.15(b) = <S> wiring be protected from physical damage by approved means (conduit) where necessary .
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But a ceiling > 8' out of arm's reach with NM-B supported properly (even by hooks) in a non living space would not be a hard no. Finished square footage isn't free; hiring a "get anything through walls and ceilings" sort of electrician to do the job soup to nuts, is where you pay for that square footage. For that matter you would need a conduit if running them inside the ceiling space.
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How can I attach deck railing boards to the top of the rails? What's the best way to attach a board to another board that's resting over it? The rail is a 2x4 and it will be held, on each side, by a 4x4. Under the 2x4 rail I'll have another 2x4 that will keep the top 2x4 straight. This is basically it: I only have a circular saw and a jigsaw, so, I can't do complex joints. I forgot to mention that I have to attach these 2x4s to the 4x4 wood posts. <Q> Glue and Screw Drill pilot holes from the bottom side of the lower 2x4 all the way through, Clamp the lower 2x4 in place and use 4 inch deck screws to screw up through the pilot holes and into the bottom of the upper 2x4 . <S> ( 2x4 are only 3 1/2 inches ) so a 4 inch screw will give you enough thread to bite into the upper board just be careful not to drive them to far. <S> Screwing from the bottom this way will keep all screw heads hidden on the bottom side. <S> Apply OUTDOOR <S> rated glue . <S> Remove clamps. <A> Using your circular saw, cut a 3 1/2" deep and 1 1/2" wide notch off the ends of the 4*4. <S> You may need your jigsaw to finish the deeper cut. <S> The bottom 2*4 should fit neatly in this notch, fasten with glue and screws. <S> Make sure these notches line up when installing the 4*4s. <S> Then fasten the top 2*4 to the top using screws every 12" minimum. <S> Glued in dowel could be substituted for screws if this is an interior application. <S> BTW, adding a corded drill, a 3/4" and 1 1/2" spade bit, and a 3/4" and 1 1/2" wood chisel to your toolbox would allow you an even more impressive range of joinery. <S> You don't need a router or tablesaw for most classic joints, although they sure make it easier. <A> Locate the screws in a nice pattern, and pre-drill near the ends of boards to prevent splits. <S> I would probably put two screws at each end (into the post) and just a few in the middle. <S> It won't take much. <S> Set the depth precisely for best appearance--just a hair below flush. <S> You can spend time doing hidden fasteners if you like, but I wouldn't bother with glue. <S> Outdoor glue only holds for a short time before it lets go, which means you end up relying on screws anyway.
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For all the decks I've built I've just use the same technique you'd use for the floor decking--screws from the top.
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What could cause a wall mounted sink to fail? I went to the restroom before I was gonna eat at the restaurant after using the restroom I flushed and attended to the sink to wash my hands as I put just the pressure of my elbows on the sink to scoop a splash of water on my face the sink came off the wall hitting my knees pretty hard and my body shot backwards to the floor causing me to hit my head whard on the tile floor not a good day! I tell ya so my question is what could cause a sink mount to fail (you can see the mount on the floor in pics)im only 130 pounds so I'm not a big guy.! Can anyone see anything wrong with these pictures at all???? <Q> You can see the angled mounting bracket hanging down under the sink . <S> The top holes have nothing to do with the mounting of the sink. <S> The bracket failed , probably because it was not screwed into structure ( studs ). <S> We can not see inside the wall to say exactly why the screws pulled out. <S> The bracket must be attached to studs or usually to a block that is run between the studs. <S> The bracket is essentially a french cleat, the back of the sink is cast so that is slips down onto the bracket. <S> The bottom holes in the sink are just to secure the sink and keep it from being lifted up and off the bracket. <S> Adhesive or caulk have nothing to do with keeping the sink on the wall. <S> If some thought that was the case they were mistaken. <S> The bracket holds the weight of the sink. <A> You've got four holes through the sink for mounting: two large ones in the top corners and two smaller ones at the bottom. <S> The wall where the sink was looks like it's got water damage <S> so I'm guessing it was mounted to the wall with smaller bolts and washers than it should have been <S> and with the water damage and your massive 130 pounds, it just succumbed to gravity. <S> Hope you weren't hurt too bad. <S> Did they comp your meal?? <A> I only see one screwhole in the wall, which has rust colored stains around it and there's clearly mildew on the back of the sink. <S> Looks like they may have also used construction adhesive on the back (or is that just silicone?) <S> which is fine but not an acceptable alternative to mechanical anchors at multiple points. <S> Seems like it was poorly mounted to begin with, plus had some mild water damage. <S> I've used mine at home to pull myself from the floor with no problem, and I have nearly 100lbs on you.
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The bracket is what holds the sink firmly on the wall, the lower holes in the sink are for keeping the bottom of the sink from being pulled away and up from the wall once it is lowered down onto the bracket.
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