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What alcohol products go well with a particular type of coffee? What alcohol products go well with a particular type of coffee? I enjoy the odd Irish Coffee occasionally. Desiring to expand my coffee/alcohol combos, I would like to know what types of coffee goes well with what type of alcohol? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. <Q> Generally, you'll want to avoid things with brighter, more acidic fruit flavors (apple, lemon) as those will mess with the inherent acidity of the coffee (although it should be noted that cherry is sometimes used) Kahlua and Baileys are commonly used, as are more woodsy whiskeys. <S> Avoid anything with carbonation, as the carbonic acid will again mess up the flavor of the coffee (beer is a no-no) and you should also avoid scotches, rye, or other peaty-earthy whiskeys. <S> Also, rum is pretty good with coffee, if you're using raw sugar in your coffee - demerara and rum are best friends. <A> Rumpleminze (peppermint schnapps) and <S> coffee and cream creates a smooth and potent alcoholic drink. <S> Add a Godiva Chocolate Liquor for a first class-after dinner cocktail. <S> Grand Marnier(something like an orange flavored brandy) goes well with both black coffee and coffee and cream. <S> If you like your coffee black Grand Mariner adds flavor and potency without adding a lot of sweetness. <S> Of course it goes just as well with cream, which results in something a lot like a chocolate orange. <S> A Tuaca(people often describe it as tasting something like butterscotch) <S> Macchiatto(my own recipe) is an alchololic twist on the classic coffeeshop favorite. <S> Mix a shot of Tuaca into a shot of steamed milk. <S> Top with Coffee. <S> This tastes mild but packs a decent punch, and if you take the time to do it properly ("mark it"), it looks pretty cool. <S> (This also tastes great with regular milk or cream.) <S> A second variation on this, which is far less potent is to replace Tuaca with 1/2 a shot of Chambord and 1/2 a shot of Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur and mix thoroughly . <S> This will an tasty adult white chocolate mocha. <S> Finally, a classic cocktail combination is coffee (with or without cream) and Sambuca. <S> Sambuca is often served with 3 coffee beans, but it works very well with an entire cup. <S> Sambuca contributes a lithe sweetness that delicately lingers in the mouth. <S> Avoid if you don't like Anise or Licorice. <S> For a seriously potent version of Sambuca and Coffee swap out Sambuca for Absinthe(not refined). <S> In addition to the alcohol content, Absinthe also offers a jolt akin to what caffeine provides. <S> Be responsible and Enjoy! <A> I like the sweeter liqueurs like Glayva, Grand Marnier and especially Galliano with espresso. <S> If you have a milk-based coffee, combine with a cream-based liqueur. <S> I have never liked alcohol mixed directly in the coffee, it gives conflicting tastes. <S> Coffee and liqueur should be sipped separately to fully enjoy each. <A> I just shove any cheap whisky (usually grouse) into espresso coffee and add a little caster sugar - <S> thats good! <S> The type of coffee in my experience (which is plentiful!) <S> dosent really make much of a difference, buy mid range espresso coffee <S> and you can create beautiful things. <S> I also add liqueur into coffee for people at work (barman - coffee liqueurs arent my thing) but theres plenty of people on youtube who will show you how to make the perfect coffee liqueur. <S> Enjoy the beautiful combination that is coffee and alcohol. <A> I will add here an Italian recipe that I recently discovered and enjoyed a lot! <S> The drink called Moretta Fanese is referenced on both Italian and English Wikipedia. <S> In a transparent coffee or punch glass, one spoon of sambuca (anisette), one spoon of rum and one spoon of brandy or cognac are mixed with sugar and a lemon zest and heated with steam. <S> Then, one espresso is added in a way to leave three layers visible in the hot cocktail: bottom to top liquors mix, coffee and coffee foam. <S> A super flavour, really recommended!
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Other combinations are espresso coffee with a shot of baileys and a shot of bourbon topped up with whipped cream and a little sugar to your taste.
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Can mead spoil? If so, in what ways? Based on my research it seems like mead just flat out doesn't spoil, but since I didn't see this specific question here I thought I'd throw it out there to confirm. I bought a bottle of mead just under a year ago, that I've had sitting in my kitchen since then. Initially it likely spent most of it's time at room temperature, and being exposed to sunlight every day. Then in the summer it would have been exposed to temperatures in the 90's and up for a few weeks. Before I open it and try it, I wonder if my bottle is likely to be bad? And if not, are there other ways it can spoil? <Q> Normally, commercial meaderies bottle in dark bottles (or something other than clear) which keep out the UV light. <S> I doubt that the temperature was much of an issue. <S> You should be able to chill your mead and enjoy it. <S> FWIW, I'd drink it out of a wine glass made for white wine rather than the skull of an enemy. <S> You'll be able to pick up on the subtleties of the mead this way, while the other might be more enjoyable. <A> Aging mead is perfectly acceptable. <S> For example, in my homebrewed meads spices like anise will go away after a year. <S> If you have a traditional straight mead that may not be an issue. <S> I would assume professionally bottled mead would have minimal oxygen to spoil the mead. <S> A good primer about mead is in the bjcp 2015 mead guidlines. <S> There is a primer at the beginning. <S> 2015 <S> BJCP Mead Guidlines <S> In that it states: "Alcohol flavors (if present) should be smooth and wellaged, not harsh, hot, or solventy. <S> Very light oxidation may be present, depending on age, but an excessive molasses, sherry like or papery character should be avoided. <S> Aging and conditioning generally smooth out flavors and create a more elegant, blended, rounded product. <S> All flavors tend to become more subtle over time, and can deteriorate with extended aging." <A> My experience is that mead tends to go flat rather quickly after opening. <S> I do not know how long the average bottle of mead stays in good condition before being opened, but some of the mead we drank from some of our local meaderies has been flat when being opened (all use clear bottles), but the fact that we stored the mead in our pantry tells us that the color of the bottle did not play into the fact that they went so flat. <S> No sunlight ever reaches our pantry! <S> When flat, it is still drinkable, but is not at all appealing. <S> Most people would not drink it. <S> Why this happened I do not know. <S> Perhaps temperature had something to do with it or simply it was a bad batch of mead? <S> The mead was chilled before being consumed. <S> Mead, like other types of wine, come in a variety of colored bottles . <A> Mead hates sunlight. <S> This is especially true for those made with some types or honey and fruit. <S> It’s often The technical term in the wine industry is “light strike” <S> beer people would know it as “skunking”. <S> Again this will depend a bit on the mead as tannins (which most mead has very little of ) tends to protect it- <S> but I’ve found even a week in bright sunlight or extended UV from fluorescent light can impact flavor. <S> That being said - it won’t make you sick <S> it just might not taste good. <S> - I’m a professional mead maker. <S> We worry about this all the time since our display shelf gets quite a bit of sun and we have to make sure we don’t accidentally sell those bottles.
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Generally speaking, your mead is fine if you haven't opened it. The biggest risk you have is that it will be oxidized and that some of the flavors could become muted.
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Whiskey and beer recommendations for boilermaker cocktail? A lecturer of mine, who is quite a beer connoisseur, mentioned boilermaker shots/cocktails when lecturing about methods of yeast fermentation. Given he's quite into beer, I'm sure when he talks about a boilermaker, he's got a particular one in mind that would go well with a shot of whiskey. I'm not quite at the same stage of knowledge, and would like some recommendations. Now I know you could put any whiskey and any beer together and it'd still be a boilermaker, but I'm wanting to find a pairing that works quite nicely - a dark ale and a smokey scotch? A pale ale and an Irish whiskey? As fun as it would be try every combo, I only have so much beer and so much whiskey, and could use a jump start. I am Australian by the way, so I might not be able to get my hands on any particularly specific recommendations. <Q> Having drank these when I was younger, I'd offer the opinion that beer and whisky shouldn't be mixed . <S> The flavours, generally speaking, are usually not complementary, so the only real benefit you'll get from them is a quicker buzz. <S> If you want to go ahead with a boilermaker anyway <S> I'd recommend getting a mid-range bottle of whisky. <S> Something with some semblance of flavour and quality, but not so good that you're wasting a good liquor by mixing it with beer. <S> Come to think of it, this rule probably holds true when mixing with anything, although I tend to use fairly cheap whiskies for cocktails. <S> In terms of specific whiskies, you could go with something like a Bulleit Bourbon or a Black Bush Irish Whisky , and if those are too pricey you could down-grade to a Wild Turkey or Crown Royal . <S> The beer you choose depends much more on your taste in beer, as the flavour of beer varies much more than does the flavour of whisky. <S> If it were me, I'd go the stronger route to mask the taste of the whisky, because when I drink a beer that's not really what I want to taste. <A> You will find that Porters/Stouts tend to hold up to whiskey/bourbon/scotch better than others. <S> Though, I'm sure you'll find exceptions. <S> One of my favorites is <S> New Holland's - Dragon's Milk with about 1.5-2 ounces of Crown Royal. <A> A lot of people have reservations on Newcastle though. <S> Sheaf (Stout) + Laphroaig (Scotch) <S> Laphroaig is the smokiest scotch I've had, and it sits nicely with a heavy stout or porter. <S> I like a porter called Baltika number 6, but it's russian <S> so you may not be able to get that one. <A> Generally speaking a boilermaker is designed to get you drunk quick and mask the the potency and flavor of the whiskey in the beer. <S> That's why you are supposed to shoot it, to get it over with. <S> I recommend you don't use craft beers or anything above mid-grade whiskey. <S> The special qualities and flavors that set those things apart will probably be lost. <S> Also keep in mind that a boilermaker is particularly expensive drink even using bottom shelf liquor, be wary of spending craft beer/top shelf liquor money on a drink designed to last less than 30 seconds. <S> However, for something lively or with pronounced flavor you may want to try something slightly outside of traditional. <S> Angry Balls: <S> Drop Cinnamon Whiskey(like Fireball) into a 1/2 glass of Spiked Apple Cider(Like Angry Orchard. <S> This is sweet and easy to drink, its known to get a party rolling Or perhaps one of the most famous of these kinds of drinks:The Irish Car Bomb(I did not make the name up):Drop a shot glass with 1/2 Irish Whiskey and 1/2 Irish Cream into 1/2 pint of Guiness. <S> This creates a flavor similar to a chocolate malt. <S> If you really want a classic boilermaker <S> I suggest going cheap. <S> Drop some Old Crow into a 1/2 glass of PBR. <S> Somehow they improve each other and make something that is actually enjoyable (by the third glass).
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In general, if you mix with a lighter, more generic beer the flavour of the whisky will be quite strong, whereas if you go with a stronger flavoured beer the whisky will be more subtle. Newcastle (Brown Ale) + Maker's Mark (Bourbon) Slightly inexpensive and the flavors blend pretty well.
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Are there any problems in serving non-cooled beer? Are there any problems in serving a non-cooled (without cooling) a beer, as the doctor has told me not to take any cooled products. So I used to take beer once in couple of day without cooling it. The taste is different, but are there any real problems with consuming noncooled beers? <Q> This article has very good information on how CO2 interacts with beer. <S> That being said, temperature plays a big part in the flavor of beer. <S> Here is a the consensus of guidelines of what temperature types of beer and wine should be served. <S> There should be nothing wrong with refrigerating your beer and then warming it up. <S> I really enjoy the flavor profiles in a lot of the darker, heavier beers I pour when they warm. <S> Just make sure that you clarify what temperature your fluids need to be before ingesting with your physician. <A> Should be just fine. <S> Cooling or warming (in normal ranges) does not change the chemistry of beer. <A> The alcohol pretty much kills any nasty things. <S> Flavors are more pronounced when the liquid is warmer as the volatile compounds that make up the flavors are more easily released but that is not necessarily a good thing in terms of flavor.
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As with all alcoholic beverages there should be no issues drinking them cold, warm or even hot. There may be some flavor issues.
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Why would an aged beer explode? I had a bottle of Westvleteren XII aging in my fridge. As I was putting some other bottles next to it, I nudged it slightly and the bottle shattered violently. I'm certain that I didn't hit it with enough force to do that kind of damage, so I'm thinking that there was pressure that had built up inside the bottle. Is this something that's plausible? Could it mean that the beer had gone "off" and so I should not feel bad that my prized beer ended up as a sticky puddle? <Q> I've been homebrewing and winemaking for almost 25 years and there are 3 reasons why a bottle might explode. <S> Too much sugar for the secondary fermentation in the bottle. <S> Turns your beer into little hand-grenades. <S> Sometimes fermentation is not complete and with the normal addition of sugar at bottling can cause problems. <S> This happens frequently in high gravity beers. <S> Infection - by this <S> I mean something other than yeast was in the beer and started eating the sugar to make the carbonation in the beer. <S> It could be a wide variety of agents from yeast to bacteria to fungus. <S> They convert sugar to CO2 at different rates than yeast. <S> Many times they produce more CO2 causing gushing beers and sometimes broken bottles. <S> Defective bottle. <S> 99.99% of the time bottles are built to spec, but occasionally one slips through with a defect and many times that can lead to a bottle failing. <S> Also, bottles are sometimes dropped or banged around causing a crack. <A> Not knowing much about the beer but the 30 second Google search - I will try to give insight as to why this may happen. <S> I've noticed this was a Trappist beer. <S> As such, there is probably as much yeast in there as homebrew beers that have had sugar added to carbonize the beer during the bottling process. <S> When too much sugar is added at this step, the homebrewing community refers to the disaster that happens next as "painting the ceiling. <S> " This comes from the present yeast having too much sugar to eat and over-pressurize the beer. <S> The first time this happened to me <S> I thought someone was shooting either in or right beside my house. <S> I know that the Trappist Monks have been doing things a lot longer than homebrewers; but, the situation is still plausible. <S> There is also a chance for glass defects. <S> You could always reach out to Westvleteren XII Gurus and ask what is the best way to store the beer so this doesn't happen again. <S> Sorry for your loss! :( <A> Any beverage that is "bottle conditioned," with active yeast, has the possibility of this happening. <S> Alcohol levels (this is the waste product of yeast) reaching levels that are toxic to the strain of yeast, and they either die or go dormant <S> Your typical home brew will go through fermentations so case #1 applies, and then they add just a bit of corn sugar and bottle so just a bit more fermentation occurs to carbonate the beverage in the bottle. <S> Other bottle conditioned brews might do an estimate of how much sugars have been used and how much remain, by measuring the specific gravity of the beer (more dense with sugars, less dense with less sugar and alcohol instead). <S> If their calculations were off, and there was still more sugars that could ferment, then pressure would build beyond what was needed just to carbonate. <S> I had a batch of stout where the yeast culture I used was pretty old, so it was less active than usual. <S> The time when I thought it was done fermenting was actually not accurate because of the less lively activity, and my bottles of stout all started exploding in my basement, and I had to dump the rest of the batch out to save the bottles. <S> I also had a fruit punch recipe that my uncle used for a wedding beverage, using just fruit juice, wine and champagne. <S> He used a much better champagne than the recipe called for, so there was live yeast. <S> When he put the leftovers back into the wine jugs and put them in the fridge, they got very "lively", with carbonation, more alcohol content, a bit drier, and one jug shattering from the additional fermentation.
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In most cases, the yeast will be limited by either - Fermentable sugars already being depleted (not all sugars are readily fermentable to brewing yeasts) Or perhaps, the bottle was knocked over and created a stress fracture that over time gave way with your slight nudge. Homebrewers do this ALL THE TIME.
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How do beer manufacturers keep the taste the same? Beer yeast change over time due to new generations. It's biology. To my knowledge you can't keep the same generation of yeast alive.Which should mean the taste should change or evolve over time? At least that's how I understand how different beer yeasts are created. Would the same brand of beer really taste and be equal over time, as in scientifically analysed and compared? <Q> I think this homebrew post has a good explanation of how brewers keep yeast strains. <S> Homebrew yeast discussion White labs from San Diego also has a great slide about how they do it . <S> White labs is the company just finished the study of the yeast domestication tree , where they analyzed the DNA of several yeast used in fermentation and determined how they are related. <S> I've seen Chris White the founder speak at a homebrew event and it was very interesting. <S> He has a Phd in microbiology from the university of california and sells to all sorts of professional brewers, distillers, and wine makers. <S> I'll summarize the information from the references here, but the bottom line is that they store samples at very cold temperatures <S> so it's metabolism <S> is almost shutdown and it won't evolve. <S> Brewers isolate there yeast in slants or plates. <S> These are the pure strain. <S> (-80 Celsius) <S> When they need to recharge because their yeast has drifted they remove a small amount from storage. <S> Using petri dishes they will grow a small size they can verify is still good. <S> With this small batch they will add to wort (what brewers call the sugary liquid that makes beer) and then make a large batch of yeast. <A> Macrobreweries such as Budweiser brew several gigantic vats at a time, and they blend the various vats' products to create a consistent product. <S> I know it's funny to think of Budweiser as having that kind of quality control, but they do have a specific flavor profile to protect and their drinkers are less likely to accept flavor variances than more adventurous beer drinkers and light pilsners have less of an ability to cover off flavors. <S> Sources: homebrewing experience and an Q&A with a Budweiser master brewer and taster. <A> There are really two questions here. <S> 1) <S> How do breweries keep the yeast they have from evolving over time2) <S> How to breweries keep a consistent flavor over time <S> I'll answer the second one first... <S> As to how do they keep the flavor the same all the time, year after year even though ingredients taste different from year to year? <S> It's all about blending. <S> They try to brew a consistent beer but it might be too hoppy or malty or strong or whatever <S> but they will dilute, or add hop oil or blend in another beer that can adjust the flavor profile to exactly what they want. <S> The same thing happens with Gallo and large wineries. <S> As to the answer to how they keep the same yeast the same year after year. <S> You can essentially keep yeast forever by deep freezing it. <S> I'm sure they have a vault filled with a library of yeast which they can go back to if they ever need to whip up a batch of new yeast from the original yeast. <S> I'll throw this in there too, that the taste of the major brands has evolved over the years. <S> The Budweiser your great grandfather drank in the 1950s <S> probably doesn't taste like the product you get now.
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They have a board of tasters at each factory to taste the batch and recommend what to blend to get the proper flavor. The yeast that is isolated will be stored at a very cold temperature to remain dormant and unchanging.
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What cocktail could be paired with French cheese? For a kind of cocktail competition I'm running against friends, I need a cocktail around France theme, my idea is to pair a cocktail with a French cheese. I know that cherries do pair well with bask sheep cheese for example (we're used to eat it with black cherry jam) Would you have a cherry flavored cocktail to advise ? Or any other cheese / cocktail association ? Many thanks! <Q> My favorite French cheese is Roquefort and is often served with nuts and honey in France. <S> I would like to recommend an Appletini with Roquefort along with the most authentic French bread you are able to procure in your area. <S> The French love their fruit and fruit flavored food and drinks. <S> Appletini cocktail : <S> Vodka with dashes apple juice and apple liqueur. <S> Serve in a classic martini glass with Roquefort, French bread and garnish with apple slices as garnish. <S> This is one that I have had in France and enjoyed it very much, perhaps you would too. <A> Please allow me to make a second recommendation for you. <S> This one I have not tried, but I have had the Soup au Vin with strawberries <S> and it was absolutely great. <S> For a twist on this blackberry wine might also go well with it (real natural blackberry wine and not the blackberry flavored ones). <S> For the cocktail: Make punch by combining one bottle of pink champagne, one bottle of red wine, one 16 oz. <S> can of frozen lemonade and <S> one 16 oz. <S> can of fruit punch. <S> Garnish with fresh strawberries . <A> Since you mention sheep cheese and dark fruit, I'll address that type of pairing. <S> You want a cocktail that reflects the item you pair with the cheese. <S> Start with the Luxardo cherry in a Manhattan ( epicurious on Luxardo cherries ). <S> Then, think about sweetening up the otherwise stiff-but-smooth Manhattan to better complement the cheese. <S> For example, replace the vermouth with tawny or ruby port; or, replace 0.5 ounces of the whiskey with blackberry brandy. <S> In general, start with a solid principal (e.g., fruit pairing) and an established cocktail with some element of the pairing, then experiment using your palate as a guide. <S> It may take several iterations, but that is the fun, is it not? <A> Manhattan with Brie. <S> Dirty Martini with Brie.sounds delish. <A> In France one would expect a good red wine with the cheese. <S> Maybe you can go that route with a red wine based cocktail. <S> I don't have a proven recipe at hand but a quick google showed up with lots of results. <S> Lillet Rouge (a red, French sweet vermouth) is close in taste to red wine, maybe a vodka-martini with Lillet Rouge suffices, but you would need to try. <A> The competition is now over and the good news is that we won the French stage by axing everything around Normandy and it turned out really well: <S> Here is the recipe we followed : http://www.1001cocktails.com/cocktails/5865/recette-cocktail-partie-au-calvados.html (using "brut" cider) <S> And I bought a nice cheese from Normandy: A Pont l'évêque. <S> We served a small toast of nice old style campaign multi cereal French cheese with a slice of Pont l'évêque. <S> The cocktail and the toast were so different that they completed each other: <S> Nice acidity and sugar from the cocktail thanks to the lemons <S> (we let it infuse for 24 hours and the result was reaaally good, at some point we almost decided not adding cider nor perrier) and the fatness and strenght of the cheese surprisingly came out very well. <S> Anyway thanks for your insights guys, and don't hesitate to try the recipe ;-)
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Simply pair your favorite champagne with a piece of flavorful Comte and the gentle flavored, bubbly wine will create the perfect compliment to the cheese (fromage).
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What fruit spirit is in St. Germain? I love St. Germain, and it's become a staple at my house... but it is so damn expensive. I'd like to make a homemade version using elderflower cordial for a fraction of the price. St. Germain lists their ingredients as: fruit Spirit, elderflower, sugar cane.What type of fruit spirit is it? Pear / lychee? <Q> All I've seen anywhere is that the base is eau-de-vie. <S> Eau-de-vie means different things in different places but, in France (where St. Germain hails from) it basically means any distillate. <S> I'd venture to say, since St. Germain refuses to specify, that it's actually a blend of unaged fruit brandys. <S> If this is the case, it almost certainly includes pear (who's distillate is pretty popular in France).... <S> and if you mix grapes and strawberries (both grown in France) you can come close to something approximating lychee (which I doubt they would ship in). <S> The addition of the elderflower would push the grape/strawberry even closer in that lychee direction. <S> This is all just speculation, a whimsy to kick around over a cocktail. <S> Realistically, I'd pick up a bottle of high quality syrup (Monin is popular), and use that to replace the liqueur. <S> You want to use less in the cocktail as it's sweeter, but it'll bear the brunt of the work. <S> You can add a cheap neutral vodka (like Smirnoff) to thin it out if you like. <S> Don't use water to cut it, it'll change the mouthfeel and water down your cocktail. <S> For further experimentation you can use a combination of pear brandy or schnapps (really anything clear and pear flavored) and vodka, I'd start with two parts vodka to one part pear. <S> You'll want to mix the two because otherwise the pear will likely be too strong. <S> Consider garnishing with an orange or lemon twist to replace the citrus in the St Germain. <S> I wouldn't worry too much about the lychee side of things, it seems any options would run pricey. <S> Yeah, your mix will be lacking something but, no matter <S> what you do it won't be quite be the real McCoy.... <S> let us know how it turns out. <S> Cheers. <A> I think you are misunderstanding what "fruit spirits" are. <S> It is essentially ethanol. <S> Spirits (or ethanol) are derived from something fermenting. <S> This can be sugar, fruit or grain based. <S> Fruit based spirits are things like brandy where wine (from grapes) is distilled down to ethanol. <S> The base isn't all that important since the spirit flavors are pretty neutral. <S> To make this I would get a very neutral vodka or Everclear (if you can) and start mixing in Elderflower Syrup and some sugar and experiment until you like it. <A> Macerar la flor de sauco en brandy de uva de origen Borgoña, <S> Tamay o chardonay, y Pinot noir. <S> Redestilar una parte de esta filtrar <S> la otra parte <S> y realizar un ensamble de estas dos más brandy de uva de preferencia Borgoña ,Tamay, chardonay y Pinot noir. <S> Agregar azúcar de caña <S> no mucha para no hacer muy dulce. <S> Prueba también en <S> vez del <S> azúcar licor de lyches más <S> si propio jarabe <S> y comparte cómo quedó. <S> José cineBartender (mixologo) <S> y estudiando sommelieriaCozumel palace
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I have a feeling this is grape based spirits.
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Has Prohibition ever worked? Historically, is there any case in which prohibition of alcohol has actually dissuaded its consumption? It failed miserably in the United States, for example... <Q> Prohibition was an Era in American history from 1920-1933 - and - it failed miserably. <S> If anything, it made alcohol more popular. <S> Prohibition, in general, also means to prohibit something via law or religion though. <S> The religious aspect is the only case that one can see prohibition working. <S> : <S> :Insert Mormonism/Islamic religion/et cetera here:: <A> No <S> Bombay State had prohibition between 1948 and 1950, and again from 1958.[17] <S> Gujarat has a sumptuary law in force that proscribes the manufacture, storage, sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages. <S> The legislation has been in force since 1 May 1960 when Bombay State was bifurcated into the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat. <S> The Bombay Prohibition Act, 1949 is still in force in Gujarat state, however there is licensing regime in Maharashtra with granting licenses to vendors and traders. <S> Gujarat is the only Indian state with a death penalty for the manufacture and sale of homemade liquor that results in fatalities. <S> The legislation is titled the Bombay Prohibition (Gujarat Amendment) Bill, 2009. <S> The legislation was prompted by numerous deaths resulting from the consumption of methyl alcohol. <S> But the result is that people dies due to homemade liqueurs every month and every year. <S> You can check this: Gujarat alcohol poisonings . <A> Therefore, no prohibition does not generally work in stopping consumption but it does result in many other legal issues. <A> In a world where people follow laws and do not attempt to profit from illegal activities, Prohibition of a product would 'in theory' work. <S> However, that is not the reality we live in. <S> Historical evidence shows us that with a vast majority of prohibition of a product, the demand for said product does not immediately drop, but the supply does. <S> This makes the product very profitable for those entities that are able to obtain said product and then distribute it for basically any price they so choose. <S> Thus for the example with alcohol prohibition in the 1920's US, crime families immediately started to acquire or make product, distribute it, and even open facilities to sell and consume. <S> This took out all middle men and gave them full and complete control of the entire supply chain, and thus allowed for them to keep maximum profits. <S> Another example in the US, is how the war on drugs has done little to stop the demand for drug in the country and only made the cartels more money.
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As with almost anything that becomes banned or illegal it causes the substance to increase in cost greatly since the acquisition of the substance requires illegal acts from manufacturing to distribution. In Gujarat , A state of India There is prohibition since 1958 which has never worked and also created lots of illegal troubles as well as loss of taxes on booze.
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How to select upper-tier whiskies without trying them first? In the past few years I've become a whisky fan boy, buying bottles in most styles, including Scotch. This question pertains mostly to Scotch, but other styles can be included too. One problem I've found is that I'd like to buy more upper tier bottles (in the 100+ Canadian) range, but I'm hesitant to do so without actually sampling these whiskies first. This poses a problem because the city in which I live doesn't give me much opportunity to sample whiskies in this range. The end result is that I can't really know if that 150 dollar bottle is worth it, or if I'm just burning my money. With that in mind, I wonder if there is a common way to determine the objective quality of a bottle in this range, without actually trying the bottle first ? <Q> Unfortunately there's no good way to guarantee you'll get something you'll like. <S> However, there are some things you can do to help: <S> Find reviews that you agree with of whisk(e)ys you like. <S> Note who wrote them and how they described the spirit. <S> Try to find other reviews by those reviewers and look for the same descriptors. <S> Ignore words like "smooth" and pay more attention to flavor notes. <S> Keep your own notes about what you like and what you taste when you drink what you like. <S> Use the vocabulary that you and the reviewers you trust use as a guide for what is likely to be in your wheelhouse. <S> This won't be perfect. <S> I don't recommend spending $200 on a bottle with this. <S> But for the midtier it's not a bad approach. <S> Find a local whiskey society to join or look out for tasting events (they happen more often than you'd think). <A> No. <S> There is no "objective" way to map your tastes to what is in the bottle. <S> It's purely a subjective exercise. <S> There is also this website Master of Malt Samples that might be able to ship 3cl bottles to you. <A> You could join communities like: Reddit's /r/whiskey or /r/bourbon or <S> /r/scotch <S> They have a system where you give quality reviews of a set number of whiskey/scotch/bourbon. <S> After X reviews you're eligible for their Swap community where different members mail drams/bottles to one another. <S> Don't roll in day one asking for "limited super rare edition" spirits. <S> But, the people there are very generous and kind. <A> You can conduct research on these sites: http://whiskyfun.com http://whiskybase.com Find what you like <S> and then, find others who like the same. <S> Read their reviews and try their top rated suggestions. <S> Find a local pub/bar/restaurant with a good selection and try a dram before you buy. <S> Join/start a whisky club and share the pain (cost) with other avid whisky scholars. <S> Study often. <A> The only real way to select whiskies you like is to taste them. <S> The question is how to do this without investing in whole bottles. <S> The obvious approach is to visit an establishment that provides whiskey "flights", usually bars or restaurants that feature whiskeys. <S> Generally this is a set of four or five small pours of a variety of whiskeys. <S> Sometimes you can mix and match, but other times I've seen flights with a theme such as Irish whiskey or different regions of Scotch. <S> Try Googling "whiskey flights near me". <S> In addition, some larger retail stores (such as Binnys in the Chicago area) have whiskey tastings. <A> I agree with most of the comments above, especially about Ralfy on youtube. <S> Also via http://ralfy.com/ <S> I have seen Erdradour in the US, but not the Caledonia. <S> I got my bottle in Pilochry at the distillery. <S> Great tour, worth the trip if you are in the Highlands. <S> Other than taking a gamble once in a while, find the ambassador of the brand, and see what events they have in a larger city near you, and make the trip. <S> Some of them have fund raisers that include tastings of several brands.
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If you're serious about upper tier stuff, find a good bar that has some of these whiskeys and go try them there. Another option is to look at some of the social organizations near you.
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What kind of whiskey is served cold? I really like my alcoholic beverages cold. But I do know most whiskeys should be served in room temperature. Although adding ice is an option, I do not prefer this method because when ice melts, the whiskey is mixed with water.Using whiskey stones is good for drinking at home, but I cannot carry my stones around (for instance in a bar). So, what type of whiskey is served chilly so I can order that one when I go to a bar? <Q> it is a blended grain whiskey that as by the name is supposed to be drank cold. <S> Some would even say that this whiskey is better straight from the freezer <A> I know of three at the moment. <S> The Snow Grouse was already mentioned and is supposed to be served straight from the freezer. <S> Dalwhinnie Winter's Gold is another one. <S> And very recently, Johnny Walker launched the White Walker (base on the Game of Thrones show). <S> A couple of remarks. <S> The Dalwhinnie expression is the only single malt among the named three. <S> The others are blends of malt and other grains. <S> Any "other" whisky, I personally, would never drink chilled. <S> Neither chilled with ice nor with stones. <S> To explain why, just a little background. <S> Some whisky's are "unchillfiltered" or "non chill filtered". <S> If so, it says so on the bottle. <S> These whisky's still contain lots of essential oils. <S> Chilling them will cause these oils to coagulate and form a hazy draft in your dram. <S> Not what I want. <S> Using stones is almost equally bad, because though your drink will not be diluted, it will still turn for the ugly. <S> So I would keep drinking whisky at room temp, and if you don't appreciate it now, you'll learn... <S> If you still want a cold one, take one of the three mentioned, as they were purposely invented to this end. <S> Nick, board member of Angel's Share whisky club, Izegem, Belgium <A> Flavored Whiskey is often kept in the freezer/ fridge: Fireball (cinnamon whiskey), although weaker than most whiskey and far sweeter is consistently kept cold. <S> American Honey <S> (Honey flavored Whiskey) is smooth and sweet but has more of a whiskey kick that Fireball. <S> There are several other kinds of flavored whiskey and many are kept refrigerated, but the above two are the most common. <S> For non-flavored the only whiskey I've seen kept on ice, although not consistently, is Yukon Jack. <A> I’ve noticed that Jack Daniels -stocked at every bar- is typically served on ice (“chilly”), especially when mixed with coke.
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One whiskey that I know of is the Snow Grouse With this in mind, using ice is bad because it will water down your drink on top of chilling it.
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What is the strongest drink in the world? Assuming that it is available through 'normal' outlets - shops, supermarkets, off licenses etc... (in other words legal) What (per unit) is the strongest alcoholic drink in the world? Beers, wines and spirits included. <Q> At the time of writing this the strongest beer in circulation is a scottish made larger/pilsner Snake Venom By Brewmeister , this beer is 67.5% ABV. <S> and is strongly recommended that you only drink small amounts in a sitting, buying a bottle(275ml) of this would set you back a £54.99 Other than this beer there was Koelschip Mistery Of <S> but as I'm aware is no longer in circulation and has had production stopped as the brewery shut down As far as all alcohol goes the strongest spirit is spirytus rektyfikowany which is a 96% Vodka. <S> The cheapest you will find this is a small bottle(10cl) and this will cost £7.95 <S> It is is strongly recommended to not drink this neat as it would be damaging <A> Indirect answer 95% or 190 proof is an upper end for distilled alcohol Water and ethanol form an azeotrop at that mixture so you can not get more than 95% ethanol with fractional distillation. <A> Spirytus Rektyfikowany <S> Here are the details on the bottle: <S> A 10cl bottle of rectified spirit from Poland bottled at the extreme ABV of 96%. <S> This is often used as a base for liqueurs and other infusions, and we highly recommend that it is never drunk neat. <S> From Australia's "Courier Mail" : National Alliance for Action on Alcohol co-chairman Professor Mike Daube said it was "amazingly irresponsible'' for stores to sell the liquor, which had the potential to cause serious damage to drinkers or even kill them. <S> Prof Daube said the extreme nature of the product could appeal to young binge > drinkers, and putting the product next to normal spirits could endanger people who did not read the label properly. <A> For those who wish to drink something from Bolivia, there is Cocoroco which is an alcoholic beverage notable for its extremely high alcohol content by volume, 96%. <S> (ABV). <S> Cocoroco is sold as "potable alcohol", most often in tin cans. <S> Like rum, cocoroco is made from sugar cane. <S> - Cocoroco (Wikipedia) <S> Cocoroco can The following article may be of some all around interest: <S> Top 10 Strongest Alcoholic Drinks in the World. <A> For myself, I have found that Everclear is the strongest spirits I have ever bought at 190 proof. <S> Although it is too strong for myself to drink by itself, it makes excellent mixes. <S> Some people have use it to extract the medicinal properties out of plants because of its' strength. <S> It also comes in 150(1) <S> proof bottles too. <S> A bottle of 190-proof Everclear <S> The lower proof Everclear is much easier to find and is quite common in the USA. <S> The 190 proof (95% ABV) is sold at Bevmo , depending on your state. <S> For more information see the Liquor Barn . <A> You can buy scientific grade Ethanol, usually at a science supply shop. <S> Many of them only sell it in person. <S> It is usually 99.5% or 199 proof! . <S> For that extra kick if Everclear isn't strong enough for you! <S> Ethanol at Fisher Scientific <A> Try "Kehlenschneider". <S> It's a Chili liquor with 80% alc and 400,000 to 800,000 scoville. <S> Remember, tabasco has only 3,000 scoville. <S> Kehlenschneider Chillischnaps <A> I know you are looking for "normal outlets", but for those who are interested, the world record holder for a while was Estonian Spirit aka Eesti Piiritus at 96.6%. <S> You can still find some for sale at auctions. <S> I brought a few bottles back when you could still buy it and foolishly did a shot of it. <S> Never trying that again! <A> Hapsburg Premium Reserve <S> Absinthe has 89.9% ABV <S> The strongest absinthe on the UK market. <S> Serve well diluted for your own safety and keep well away from naked flames. <S> The term premium reserve refers to the high strength, with original being the 'weakest' (though still 72.5%) and super deluxe being in the middle. <S> Please note this is a high-strength product <S> and we recommend not drinking neat – please enjoy diluted or with a mixer of your choice.
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The purity of rectified spirit has a practical limit of 95.6% ABV; this hard to pronounce Polish Vodka is a murderous 96% ABV. Beer - Brouwerij het Koelschip that was 70% ABV
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How safe are eggs in cocktails like fizzes? Many cocktails such as fizzes call for an egg white (or an egg yolk in some cases). Given that I'm not sure I would eat a raw egg, how safe is it to put one in my drink? Are there any alternatives I can use instead of egg white? <Q> According to a USDA report , a study done in 2000 showed that of the estimated 47 billion eggs consumed in the U.S. annually, 2.3 million of them were estimated to be contaminated by salmonella, leading to approximately 240,000 illnesses. <S> So, if my math is correct, for any given egg, you have something like a 1 in 100,000 chance of getting one that has salmonella, and the chance of getting ill is somewhat less that that... <S> Somewhere between 1 in 100,000 and 1 in a million. <S> So, relatively low risk, I'd say, assuming that the global numbers are at least on the same order of magnitude as what we see in the U.S. <S> That said, there is a way to reduce the risk even further... <S> Nearly to zero. <S> That is to use pasteurized eggs. <A> Whites and yokes are also used in many health drinks. <S> Raw eggs (not expired) are considered safe (and healthy). <A> It is highly dependent on where you are located and your risk tolerance (do you eat sushi, rare beef, etc?). <S> As someone who has had salmonellosis, I can verify that you really, really do not want to contract it. <S> Really. <S> That said, in the US you are probably OK, elsewhere likely somewhat less <S> so (relative risk is probably roughly an order of magnitude greater in Western Europe, and likely still greater elsewhere). <S> This is thoroughly set out in Athanasius's great answer on our Cooking sister site. <S> I would not rely on the alcohol content of the fizz to vitiate the risk in a material way: <S> microbicidal potency of alcohol at concentrations below 50% is pretty negligible ( source )... <S> so if the reason you wouldn't eat an egg raw is the risk of gastroenteritis (and not some ick factor), then I'd consider the risks the same. <A> Aquafaba could be something to think about. <S> Here's a quick overview: <S> The water that is left after boiling beans or chickpeas is full of proteins and starches etc... <S> If whisked like egg white it produces what can only be described as meringue. <S> I believe that you could add your cocktail to this, <S> whisk it all up <S> and there you have it. <S> You can either boil your own beans/chickpeas, or buy a jar/tin, drain (use chickpeas for other things: humus or curry or something) <S> put the water (aquafaba) in a bowl and whisk (it will take a little time so an electric whisk is best). <S> The guys at aquafaba know more than me about it's uses, here's the website , and they also have a Facebook page. <S> I have not tried making cocktils with aquafaba, but have made meringues from it and <S> it does work. <S> There is no need to cook aquafaba as it is already cooked ( <S> no salmonella risk)- <S> it's just a by-product and is suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.
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Most shell eggs sold in the U.S. are unpasteurized, but you can find pasteurized shell eggs, and the pasteurization process does quite a good job of killing salmonella, and so these eggs are highly recommended in any concoction that requires raw, or undercooked eggs.
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Tequila worms - to eat or not to eat - that is the question? So, with a bottle of Tequila in hand, a glass, and oooppss - it's the last shot and the worm falls out! Now - do you consume it? Or - just throw it? But what type of worm is it and are they specially grown/produced for the drink? There are a lot of stories about if the worm is real or not - but if I am offered a drink of Tequila and a worm is in it - well what then? Tequila Worm <Q> Not all types of tequila contain a tequila worm. <S> The worm is reserved for a drink known as Mezcal, which, according to some, is tequila’s big brother. <S> But the two spirits are entirely different. <S> Tequila is distilled from any number of natural Mexican plants and can bear the name as long as the finished product consists of at least 51% agave. <S> Mezcal must be 100% agave. <S> - Should You Eat the Tequila Worm? <S> Most people would not eat the mezcal worm, but in some cultures it is quite acceptable. <S> There are no proven side effects that come with consuming a Tequila worm. <S> While the worm is popularly called the tequila worm, it is only found on the bottom of a bottle of mezcal, a variety of tequila obtained from distilling blue agave and similar plants. <S> The meriposa worm is grown on agave from which mezcal is made, and when a worm is added to the mezcal, it is known as mezcal con gusano. <S> Consuming the worm after drinking mezcal is a popular tradition among many communities, but it is not clear where the tradition originated. <S> Some believe that the adding the worm in a bottle of mezcal signifies the purity of the alcohol, as it hinders the disintegration of the worm. <S> Others believe that it is merely a marketing strategy among Mexican liquor producers. <S> While it's documented in media that the eating the worm causes hallucinations, this has yet to be medically proven. <S> The worm is pickled in alcohol for more than a year and is made sure to be free to pesticides, before being added to mezcal. <S> It is also a popular delicacy in Mexican restaurants, and is said to have positive psychological effects. <S> - What happens when someone eats a Tequila worm? <S> As for myself, I think I will pass on this offer! <A> Generally speaking worms would be found in a drink called mescal or mezcal (same thing), and not in tequila. <S> Mezcal is related to tequila , but not as well known outside of Mexico, which is why the worm in tequila myth started. <S> There are two types of worms you can find in mezcal. <S> The white worm is a larva of the beetle Scyphophorus Acupunctatus . <S> The red worm, the taster one, is a larva of the moth Comadia Redtenbacheri from the Cossidae family of moths. <S> They both invade agave plants (what tequila and mezcal are made from), which is why those are the worms that go in the bottle. <S> Choosing whether to eat it or not is entirely up to you. <S> On the one hand, the mezcals that have a worm in the bottle are usually bad. <S> It first appeared in bottles around the 1940's or 50's, likely as a marketing gimmick, so it's not some ancient tradition. <S> Opposed to what some people claim it won't get you drunk, you won't hallucinate, and it won't make you horny. <S> The booze is good enough at that stuff anyway. <S> On the other hand, it does actually change the mezcal's chemistry <S> so you can't prove it's in there only for marketing. <S> Both types of worm are eaten even when they aren't alcohol soaked, there are worm tacos and sal de gusano <S> (gusano meaning worm so, worm salt). <S> In Naturalis Historia, Pliny the Elder wrote that larvae, fattened up with flour, was one of the most delicate dishes and highly appreciated by Romans. <S> In fact the larvae that Pliny wrote about may be of the same Cossidae family as the red mezcal worm. <S> This book was written around 70 AD.... <S> so there is some ancient history there after all. <S> Most importantly though.... <S> it's kind of fun. <S> You get to say you ate the worm, most people won't. <S> (Chants... dooo it, doooo it, doooo it.) <A> Me and my son ate the two worms that came in a bottle of mezcal we drank on his 21st birthday, it had no effect on us at all above the drunkeness we got from the mezcal apart from its foul taste that stayed for the next few hours. <S> It tasted like wet rotten leather washed with ashtray juice and would be the worst thing i have ever swallowed. <S> My son made his even worse by chewing it first! <S> Definitely not worth trying at all! <S> Even if it offerd some sort of extra kick or effect (which it does not) I would never do it again.
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The tequila worm or as it should be known as the Mezcal worm is normally only found in Mezcal (tequila).
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Can one put on weight by drinking beer? I am very thin and it was suggested that I drink beer to put on weight. Would drinking beer help to put on weight? If yes, how many beers should I drink in a week to put on weight? If no, could one please explain briefly why this is so. <Q> Beer can make you gain weight by three means, but you shall <S> NOT pursue it ! <S> First is alcohol, which is a byproduct of the fermentation of starch by yeast. <S> Starch is a carbohydrate, and it has it's own nutriting quality, including energy. <S> Its energy is transferred to alcohol. <S> If the energy it carries is not used by basal metabolism or physical activity, it'll be stored. <S> It is why non pathological drinker get fat. <S> But drinking regularly may drive you to pathological drinking, even when you never get drunk nor make any excess. <S> Second is cereal malt (beer component) and non fermented starch itself : first is an aliment (cattle) and second is a carbohydrate : they are particularly fit for storing when unused. <S> Third is oestrogen. <S> Hop, the flavouring and conservative plant used in beer production carries a phyto-oestrogen, which has the same effect on the human body as the feminine hormone. <S> One of the effect of oestrogen is modifying the fat storage (many a women complain on her weight change under contraceptive pills), both for developing sexual character (women's are the sole primate with permanent breasts) and storing fat in case of starvation during pregnancy. <S> You already guessed why messing with hormonal rates in your body is no option. <S> I strongly recommend you to seek help in gaining weight from a trained medical staff, or at least from a specialized Stack Exchange site. <S> A change in your feeding habits may be way more efficient and less hazardous. <S> Beer nutriment don't really matches the kind of food you shall seek with this objective. <S> Sources: Wikipedia, French medical awareness websites, and my personal experience as a beer cellarman. <A> In excess it is definitely not healthy. <S> Alcohol is hard on the liver. <S> Alcohol withdrawal has the highest death rate. <S> Up to 2 beers a day is generally considered a maximum intake. <S> You would pick up like 300 calories. <S> There are better ways to pick up 300 calories. <A> One pound can be gained through the consumption of about 3500 calories more than you burn. <S> If you drink a brand of beer with 200 calories per serving, it'd take 18 servings to gain a pound (assuming your diet otherwise negates your metabolism). <S> That pound, likely, would be fat. <S> I don't think you really want to do this, as enjoyable as you may find beer.
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In general beer is not considered healthy. Basically, you must eat and brink more than your body burns, while making the right amount of physical exercise to gain muscles as well as body fat.
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What constitutes a "stack of whiskey"? This term was used in a TV show recently and was referring to the price of another highly prized liquor by saying it was worth 3 or 4 stacks of whiskey. The show was a recent episode of NCIS Los Angeles. In very last scene they sat down to a toast with Hettie. <Q> I believe they're referring to stacks of boxes. <S> Now, seeing as how bottles of whiskey can vary widely in price and stacks of boxes can be of any height, the phrase doesn't really mean anything at all. <S> My conjecture is that, if it is a fictional series, this is one of the many instances in which a line sounds cool enough that no viewers catch on to the fact that it means nothing. <S> You can see this all the time when science or technology terms are thrown around on tv. <S> Just for fun let's make some assumptions. <S> If a stack is 6 boxes high and you use something cheap like cases of Jim Beam two or three stacks would be between 2150 and 3240 dollars. <S> That's a pretty wide range of numbers but not an unheard of price for a bottle of liquor. <S> You can keep the expensive bottle though, I'll be hiding in the corner with my 200 bottles of whiskey. <A> According to the urban dictionary web site, a stack is a G or $1,000.00 US dollars. <S> This makes sense since the price of a bottle of Yamazaki 2013 <S> Sherry Cask is $3,999.99 in 2017.cfb http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=stack <S> https://dekanta.com/store/yamazaki-2013-sherry-cask/ <A> I watched the episode of NCIS LA S8/19 and it makes sense. <S> The reference meaning the bottle of whiskey they were drinking a Yamasaki 2013 <S> Cost $3999 in 2017
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Sherry Cask was worth 3 or 4 stacks ( $3000 -$4000).
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What is the largest winery that supplies sacramental wine to the Catholic Church? As the question states, I would like to know what is the largest winery that supplies sacramental wine for the Catholic Church? By largest supplier to the Catholic Church of sacramental wine, I mean by volume sold to the Church in liters/gallons? <Q> The nation's largest producer, the Mont La Salle Altar Wine Company in the Napa Valley of California, makes a rose of petite sirah, zinfandel, ruby cabernet and cabernet sauvignon. <S> From the NY Times: Sacramental Wine, Lowest Profile of All Mont La Salle Altar Wines website <S> I love the screw cap! <A> Is there such a thing as dedicated sacramental wine? <S> After a bit of research, my own conclusions are that it is simply wine. <S> The Catholic Forum also had this to say. <S> Thus I believe that it is difficult to answer as possibly the wine could be simply purchased. <S> A lot of people don't realize this, but there's nothing particular that makes altar wine "altar wine". <S> The wine for the Precious Blood must be true wine, made from grapes, and have no additional sweeteners or flavorings, or preservatives (beyond a bare minimum), or anything else. <S> The vast majority of wines available on the shelf might potentially be used as altar wine. <S> The only difference is that a competent authority in the Church has certified this wine for use at the altar. <S> That's a long way of sayiing that vintners produce a line of wine and most of the bottles get "regular" labels, and some of them get "altar wine" labels, but the product inside is identical. <S> It might already be on the shelf at your local store, but it's just not labeled the same. <S> So you could contact the winery, ask who their distributors are, and buy all you want. <S> A very few wineries cater exclusively to Catholic churches, so you might have some difficulty getting them to sell it to you-- <S> not because they can't but simply because they don't have any method of selling to a private person. <A> As Maria Tickle writes, the winery supplies the bulk of the sacramental wine for Australasia, pumping out 90,000 litres a year. <S> The winery’s story began in 1851 when a group of Jesuit priests bought 100 acres in the heart of the Clare Valley and named it Sevenhill, hoping to create a Catholic cultural centre akin to the Sevenhill district of Rome. <S> The Jesuits started a winery that began supplying sacramental wine to the surrounding parishes in 1858. <S> Brother John says his sacramental wine stacks up rather well even on the international market. ' <S> I’ve even actually tasted the altar wine which they sell in Cana of Galilee, where the Lord changed the water into wine, and I’ve tried that wine, I prefer ours,' he says. <S> - Clare Valley winery Sevenhill Cellars produces a heavenly drop. <S> All three types of their Altar Wines are made in accordance with Canon Law. <S> Sevenhill's sacramental wine is made in three styles in a similar fortified method to Apera (the official name for sherry in Australia). <S> Sweet Red is a blend of Grenache, Ruby Cabernet and Pedro Ximenez grapes. <S> Sevenhill's sacramental wine is made as naturally as possibly with minimal winemaking intervention in conformity with the requirements of Canon Law. <S> - Wine Portfolio: Sacramental / Altar Wines <A> [O-Neh-Da Vineyard in the Finger Lakes of NY is America's oldest dedicated sacramental winery, operating strickly in accord with Canon law. <S> Founded in 1872 by Rochester's founding Bishop, Bernard J McQuaid, O-Neh-Da is the only certified valid ad licit estate producer of approbated sacramental wine. <S> O <S> -Neh-Da Authentic Sacramental Wines are available direct from the Vineyard to clergy and churches only.
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In the Land Down Under , the Sevenhill Cellars is the only winery in Australia specializing in sacramental wine , and the only one recommended by the Catholic Church to be used in Mass. Easter is a busy time of year for the oldest operational winery in South Australia’s Clare Valley, Sevenhill Cellars.
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What makes bourbon sweet? If bourbon contains no carbohydrates (and therefore no sugar) what gives it a sweet flavour? What are the chemicals or compounds? <Q> Many chemical compounds, like saccharin for example, can taste sweet. <S> There are hundreds of chemical compounds in bourbon and a number of them or combinations of them can lead to that sense of sweetness. <S> Ethanol itself has a sweet flavor. <S> The sugar from the corn itself however, will not make it through the distillation process. <S> If we consider for a moment corn based vodka, you'll notice that it doesn't have the same sweet flavor. <S> An important contributor to these compounds are the flavors that come from the barrel, most noticeably vanillin. <S> Vanillin tastes like, well..... vanilla. <S> Another is 3-Methyl-4-octanolide , also known as whisky lactone, which adds more vanilla flavor as well as coconut. <S> Esters are one of the congeners, things other than ethanol that make it through distillation. <S> Esters add more fruit flavors. <S> One such ester is ethyl hexanoate , which can provide like a pineapple or slightly green banana flavor. <S> You can actually get totally different compounds in the bottle while using the exact same production materials too. <S> For example in the barrel, a lower alcohol content won't penetrate the wood as deeply as a higher alcohol content would. <S> The sweeter flavors are pretty shallow in the wood so if I wanted to make something sweet, I'd dilute the alcohol a little before aging. <S> You won't be able to tell this by looking at the alcohol content on the bottle though, because the higher proof stuff going into the barrel will be diluted after aging. <S> It's all part of the process. <A> I did not see this mentioned... <S> wood is made up of fibers of cellulose and hemicellulose. <S> Both of these substances are polymers of sugar, just like starch is a polymer of sugar. <S> When the barrel is charred, it will create caramel compounds, just like charring sugar. <S> When bourbon is stored in a charred oak barrel, these caramel compounds will be extracted into the spirit, adding sweetness. <S> Similarly, the cellulose and hemicellulose are bound together by a compound called lignin. <S> When lignin is broken down, phenylpropenes and methoxyphenols are created. <S> Examples of these compounds are vanilla and clove flavors <A> So why is bourbon so sweet? <S> It’s all about the corn mash. <S> The stuff those geniuses ferment. <S> Bourbon’s mashbill is made of at least 51% corn, often far more (closer to 70% as an average). <S> Four Roses has two mashbills, one with 60% corn and one with 75% corn. <S> There are various high-rye, low-rye, wheat and whatever else mashbills but all share one characteristic – at least 51% corn. <S> Scotch, on the other hand, uses mostly or all barley in its mash and the glucose content of corn is much higher. <S> That glucose is what gives bourbon its easily recognizable sweetness. <S> 51%+ corn in the mash is why bourbon is so sweet. <S> Why is bourbon so sweet?
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I'd say that what sets bourbon apart is the number of chemical compounds present, collectively adding to the sweetness. The other major contributor are esters.
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Why would some prefer to put salt in their beer? Are there any traditional or historic reason(s) why people would put salt in their beer when drinking it or would simply prefer to drink a salted beer such as Gose ? Gose beer , brewed in Bonn, Germany (2014). <Q> The same reason people put salt on their food. <S> It enhances the flavor of the beer. <S> The extra salt has other effects as well though, outside of simply making things more salty. <S> Particularly, adding salt to foods helps certain molecules in those foods more easily release into the air, thus helping the aroma of the food, which is important in our perception of taste. <S> Putting Salt on Food <A> Is there a real reason for putting salt in beer? <S> Putting salt in beer stems from a few philosophies - all of which seem to have had a purpose at one time or another. <S> · An old wives' tale said that putting a sprinkle of salt in your beer would stave off cramping during hard work. <S> Dehydration can cause cramping of the muscles, because of the depletion of minerals in the body. <S> Adding salt to the beer would make the worker thirsty, and thus he would drink more beer to relieve the dehydration. <S> · Others add salt to beer for flavor purposes; post-prohibition (1933) beer had turned into somewhat of an ugly being. <S> Breweries had to cut costs and started to use cheaper ingredients like rice and corn, which made for a nearly flavorless beer. <S> These beers are still around, though most people have become accustomed to flavorless beer and so have no need for the salt. <S> Many South and Central American beer drinkers will add salt and sometimes hot sauce and/or lemon, for flavor, or to mask off flavor in beer. <S> Here is what bartenders have heard their patrons say why they use/like beer salt: <S> I like the way it tastes. <S> It makes me thirstier <S> so I can drink more. <S> (Salt increases thirst) <S> I don’t have to pee as often. <S> (Salt retains fluid) <S> I don’t belch as much. <S> (Salt removes carbonation) <S> I can drink more and don’t fill up as fast. <S> (Less carbonation) <S> My dad/grandpa always drank it this way. <S> (Family tradition) <S> The guy with the pretty blond is doing it. <S> (My favorite) <S> Why is it that people need Beer Salt? <S> Here are some examples of Gose Beer : <S> Why Gose Is The Only Beer You Should Be Drinking This Summer . <S> A similar question was asked on our Seasoned Advice SE site: <S> Why did my grandfather-in-law salt his beer? <A> Putting Salt in Beer before consumption leads to formation of bubbles and foam which we see while pouring fresh beer out of the can or bottle.
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(Salt is a natural flavor enhancer)
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Recommendations for Tea/Fruity/Sweet beers? I mainly drink ciders and sometimes I find a beer that I can tolerate the taste, even if I don't enjoy it. Something like Yuengling or Stella (not the cider). Recently I tried Sea Dogs Tea Beer which hasn't hit the stores as far as I know. From what a bartender has told me, it is because it is very expensive to brew, so at the moment I'm drinking things like Blood Orange/Strawberry Mike Hards, Strawberry-Lime Rekorderlig, most Sour beers, and other ciders like Angry Orchard. I'd like to find something new that fits my taste buds with a sweet or sour after taste that is light in color (like pale ales and such). I'm not a big alcohol buff like my boyfriend, but I learned this much just from going to tap houses and tasting rooms. <Q> If you like sour beers and fruit flavors, try lambics . <S> I've known several people who "don't drink beer" who like this style. <S> A lambic is a Belgian style, light in color and usually in alcohol level, that is fermented with wild yeasts and (usually) combined with fruit. <S> It has a sour element to the taste, which is most notable with the non-fruit variety ( gueuze ). <A> You can try something like the Grapefruit radler . <S> I find it very nice on a hot summer day and you can mix it with other juices if you are not into grapefruit. <A> Anderson Valley is the de facto source of sour beers in my area. <S> Their Blood Orange Gose and Briney Melon Gose are fairly refreshing. <S> https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/193/184814/ <S> 21st <S> Amendment Brewing also has a watermelon flavored wheat that is fairly popular around here. <S> It's definitely a "love it or hate it" item. <S> https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/735/4202/ <S> Flying Dog has a good one: https://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/68/92018/ <A> I would add one more suggestion from Italy: the Belgian Ale Birra Kuka Rosa . <S> Translating some excerpts from the webpage linked above: <S> From the reinterpretation of an ancient Belgian recipe still used in the Gent area, which involves the use of berries during malting, a unique aroma is obtained [...] <S> The smell is fragrant, with clear notes of raspberries and red fruits which however do not cover the hints of hops and malt. <S> The taste features notes of red fruit and spices. <S> Then, once again, I am so surprised that noone in years mentioned the specialties by the Swedish Brewski , brewed with cherries or berries or pineapple or mango...and - well - probably many other fruits!!
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If you are looking for something with a little more of a beer kick, fruit flavored IPA's are a nice option.
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Adding flavor to vodka I accept that one of the easiest ways to add flavor to vodka is simply to add a mixer or juice of some type, but that would be diluting it. I also know that I can add fruits to the vodka itself which would infuse the vodka with a particular flavor. Is there another way, say with some type of essential oil of some variety. Overly sweet flavors should be avoided. <Q> It's incredibly easy to infuse vodka with tea <S> - unscrew the cap, force a teabag through the neck, screw the cap back on, and put it in the freezer until you're happy with it <S> (overnight is fine). <S> Keep the tag outside <S> so it's easy to pull out. <S> Tea vodka is tasty, and also makes a great base for cocktails. <S> You can also infuse it with horseradish , or ginger, or any other kind of root the same way that you would with a fruit peel - slice it thin, chuck it in, and give it a day. <S> Unsweetened cranberries are great, and cranberry vodka is very popular in Russia and Finland. <S> With the right infusions, you can turn your vodka into gin . <A> I know of two methods: <S> Add some aroma-containing plant-material (herbs, spices, fruit-peel, ...) into a bottle of vodka and let it rest to infuse. <S> Remove when desired taste is achieved. <S> An infusion with bison grass is well known in Poland as Zubrowka . <S> Some examples: lemongrass sage (mix result with lime-juice and sugar) orange-peel juniper (that's kind of how gin is made, i fact just look at a list of gin-botanicals to get ideas) <S> rosemary cinnamon <S> safron Dissolve <S> some candy in a bottle of vodka. <S> Where i come from a handful of blue mint cooler candy dissolved in vodka is called " smurf pee ". <S> Just use real candy made from real sugar and all the flavours are yours. <S> It tastes awfully artificial, but a lot of people like it. <A> They make the exact product you are looking for. <S> Home Distillers can add flavorings to their neutral spirits with these products. <S> Still Spirits <S> I would look around the website as there are many different types of flavorings if you are interested. <A> To add other flavors, you would add them into the simple syrup, mashing as you go along. <S> You have to consider the temperature and amount of fruit to add to get the desired flavor. <S> If you are trying to follow the simple syrup recipe and bring the sugar/water/additives to a boil ASAP, you shouldn't really lose any flavor. <S> From personal experience (and preference), strain the simple syrup with a cheese cloth , or other straining device ( chinoise mentioned below). <S> This is especially true when making things like a Strawberry Habeñero Margarita if you add the seeds in during the simple syrup process. <S> Recipe: <S> Strawberry Habanero Margarita <S> Ingredients <S> • <S> ¼ cup <S> Strawberry Habanero Simple Syrup• ¼ cup Fresh Lime <S> juice• <S> 4 ounces Grand Marnier• 4 ounces Tequila• Strawberry Habanero Simple Syrup:• 1 cup <S> sugar• 1 cup water• 1 cup strawberries• 1 habanero with seeds Instructions for Strawberry Habañero Syrup: 1. <S> Bring everything to a simmer and let cook for about 5 minutes over medium heat.2. <S> Strain the syrup through a chinoise and reserve juice. <S> Discard the berries and pepper.3. <S> Chill the syrup. <S> Making the drink <S> 1. <S> Combine ice, the syrup, the lime juice and the liquor in a cocktail shaker.2. <S> Shake vigourously and then pour into a chilled ice filled glass. <S> Preparation time: 5 minute(s) <S> Cooking time: 5 <S> minute(s) <S> Number of servings (yield): 2 <S> Granted <S> - you're asking about Vodka infusions... <S> This is my relevant experience with infusions and simple syrups. <S> 10/10 will make this margarita again. <A> I actually use skittles to add flavor to vodka. <S> The process takes a while to complete the process and get all the flavor. <S> I found instructions that seem to be the equivalent to what I do(except I use coffee filters). <S> Separation of the skittles is key in my opinion <S> but whow knows you may come up with a combination that you really love. <S> I personally just buy a large bag from Amazon. <S> Skittle Vodka Tutorial
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Simple Syrups can be a great way to infuse other flavors into your vodka.
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Good non-alcoholic, sedative drinks to replace alcoholic drinks As active as I am on this Stack and enjoy the occasional drink I'm realizing more and more that, regardless of how little I drink from day to day, for the most part booze just tends to bring me down a bit, and if I avoid it I usually feel better than if I had had something to drink. So I'd like to put this question out there to get some ideas for drinks that act as sedatives, but which are non-alcoholic. So far I've primarily been using lavender and chamomile teas, and straight water. Water specifically isn't sedating but does tend to balance out overloads of caffeine or sugar. Is there anything else that's commonly used for this purpose? <Q> Allow me to suggest a Kava tea as an alternative to an alcoholic drink due to it's sedative properties. <S> When ground up and mixed with water, the root turns into a juice that some claim can be a natural alternative to alcohol . <S> It has been used for thousands of years as a ceremonial and social drink in the South Pacific. <S> Basically, the drink mimics alcohol's relaxing and sedative effects without the downsides - no extreme emotions, no memory loss, and no hangover. <S> Tech Insider previously reported on kava's key compound, kavain, which mimics a sedative and triggers relaxation in the body. <S> It works as a muscle relaxer, so while you're mentally alert, you feel physically loose. <S> Here is what Bulletproof has to say about Kava: <S> Kava is like chamomile on steroids. <S> This muddy-tasting little root comes from the Pacific Islands, where people have used it for centuries as everything from a pain reliever to a ceremonial drink. <S> A potent anxiety reliever, kava offers a non-alcoholic way to wind down at the end of the day, especially if you’re working late or you have trouble falling asleep. <S> The secret lies in kavalactones, the psychoactive parts of the kava plant. <S> The kavalactones in a cup of kava tea, or a few drops of kava extract, can put you into a rare state of relaxed focus. <S> If you can not find it locally, it may be obtained on Amazon . <S> YOGI TEAS Kava Stress Relief Tea <A> I don't know where you are located, but in my state Cannabis is legal and would be a perfect replacement for alcohol. <S> Cannabis oils are not water soluble, so you have to get there a different way than just putting the flower buds in water, but it's pretty easy. <S> The effects of Cannabis are well known, so I won't go into what it does to you. <S> Cannabis tea can be made in a variety of ways from many different ingredients depending on your personal preferences. <S> A few methods include: <S> An infusion of dry flowers and water — typically less psychoactive because THC is not water-soluble. <S> A mixture of cannabis infused with fat (e.g., coconut oil, butter, and/or dairy) combined with tea leaves and water to make a chai or latte-type drink. <S> A mixture of regular tea leaves and water heated with an alcohol-based extraction (such as a tincture) added to it. <S> How to make Cannabis infused tea <A> So I went to my local tea shop and had a chat with the owners there, who are experts on this topic, and ended up picking up a few more sedatives. <S> So far these teas seem to be good options : <S> Update : I've also taken the suggestion in one of the other answers to try Tulsi, and this has turned out well. <S> Where teas like Chamomile or Lavender are good sleep aids, Tulsi acts as more of a relaxant that can be drunk at different times of the day. <S> So far the teas seem to work out like this: Lavender - sleep aid Valerian - sleep aid Chamomile - sleep aid <S> Mints - muscle and body relaxant <S> Tulsi - stress relief <S> Second Update : <S> I'm going to share another update here as this question is getting a lot of views, and I believe this information to be pertinent to the question. <S> To help cut back on caffeine I've been mixing caffeine-free coffee beans with regular ones, and gradually increasing the amount of caffeine-free beans in the mix. <S> At this time I'm at about 25% regular / 75% caffeine free. <S> What's interesting to note about this is that since seriously cutting back on caffeine I've found that I no longer have much need for the sedative herbals I'd been drinking . <S> As it turns out, once your body acclimates to not pumping itself with stimulants, there is less need for sedatives to calm yourself down at the end of the day. <A> Tulsi, aka holy basil tea actually lowers the cortisol levels in your body, and speak as a person who used to drink daily for stress, this has worked the best for me.
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Kava drinks - often referred to as "kava tea" - are made from the roots of a plant grown in the South Pacific, and they're known for their purported anti-anxiety and antidepressant effects. Chamomile Lavender Mints Valerian Root Lemon Balm (mint family) In the past year I've not only been making use of sedatives, but have also been reducing the caffeine content I drink via coffee.
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Wine recommendation on the sweet side with 12 to 15% alcohol My wife loves drinking Moscato and Stella Rosa but they don't intoxicate her. I have to occasionally spike her drinks (obviously knowingly) with whiskey for her to feel a "buzz." Are there any wines that are maybe not as sweet as the 2 mentioned but less dry that provider maybe like a 12 to 15% alcohol content? <Q> It depends on how sweet you are looking for. <S> If you are looking for very sweet than dessert wines are the way to go, <S> a Sauternes or Mustacel will be at least 12% if not higher. <S> If all you want is a fruitier wine then many German white wines like Rieslings or Gewürztraminers tend to be on the sweet side, sometimes too sweet for many palates. <S> Slightly less sweet whites are Sauvignon Blancs, Chenin blancs , soaves, the list goes on. <S> All of these should be above 12% <S> Reds are tough for people with sweet palates, there are red dessert wines out there, and there are sweeter reds <S> but there's no variety I can think of that <S> is reliably sweeter. <S> Roses are often sweet, especially the cheaper ones like White Zinfandel , but those can be low quality. <S> A good Zinfandel red is a great wine, but not what I'd consider sweet. <A> Most fortified wines such as port, Madeira, (sweet) sherry, Commandaria are both very sweet and are very high in alcohol. <S> Many are in the range of 20% ABV. <S> I would strongly [ <S> pun intended] suggest seeing if she enjoys Port or Madeira. <S> My personal favourite strong, sweet wine is Elysium Black muscat . <S> It is so sweet that I commonly have it as dessert in restaurants. <A> A little primer on alcohol and sugar in wine. <S> The lower the alcohol is usually associated with higher acid levels because the grapes are picked less ripe. <S> Champagne is a good example of this. <S> To offset the biting acids, winemakers usually add sugar to compensate. <S> That's why so many low alcohol wines are sweet. <S> Can you find higher alcohol wines that are sweeter? <S> Sure, dessert wines come to mind. <S> Sauternes, Ice Wines, Tokay, Late Harvest wines are sweet with more alcohol. <S> A lot of mainstream wine brands, like Sutter Home are purposely made sweeter. <S> Unfortunately, the cheaper the wine, usually the sweeter <S> it is. <S> Like I always mention here, wine is an adventure that only you can travel. <S> You need to discover what you like (or your wife in this case). <S> But I think these are several recommendations that should set you on the path. <A> I find that the great house of E. Guigal offers an excellent price/quality/ratio for this wine. <A> My favourite wine varietal these days is Portguese Vinho Verde which is a super-sweet white wine. <S> Two major brands are Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde at 9% ABV, sugar content 11g <S> /L or Caves Alianca Vinicola De Sangalhos Vinho Verde which is actually 10% ABV, <S> sugar content 14g/L <A> Following my personal taste, I would advise these two "meditation" sweet wines: <S> DOC <S> (Italy, up to 18%); Samos Muscat <S> (Grece, around 15%); lighter instead (I'd say below 10%) and very different concept than the above two, Italian Fragolino . <A> appasemiento and rippasso wines from Italy are sweeter due to production method of drying/partially drying the grapes before pressing allowing a richer flavour and keeping alcohol levels as high as regular wine.
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Please consider the sweet and fortified wines of the Rhone with Muscat de Beaumes de Venise being the kind of wine that might give satisfaction allround. Malvasia delle Lipari passito
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Unique drinks to make Halloween memorable? Are there any unique drinks out there to pair with Halloween in order to make it truly memorable? We like having a Halloween party in an area with some so called haunted houses and where stories of Sasquatches abound. we have a grand old time with stories, movies and eats the whole week of Hell Week (the week leading up to Halloween). For my part, I would like to bring the following eats to our evening soirees: My own variation of the Croque Monsieur . The béchamel sauce that I make contains enough Keens Mustard to make your eyes weep and your nose run. These are best served warm to hot, but can be eaten cold. Mummy Dogs or something resembling Piggy Coffins . Green pasta salad dish of sorts. Stuffed Jack-O-Lanterns Bell Peppers which after my Croque Monsieurs are my favorite. <Q> I tend to think of drinks with scary names. <S> Specifically you could serve Zombie Dust from 3 Floyds Brewing which has the advantage of being a really excellent beer . <S> Lastly, there is the Pumpkin Ale beer style. <A> Why not try this chillischnaps liquor: <S> Kehlenschneider. <S> It has an 80% ABV and is a real evil drink if taken in untamed quantities! <S> Kehlenschneider is of German origin and means <S> throat slicer <S> and some say it is the hottest liquor/liqueur in the world. <S> Kehlenschneider Caution : This is one hot drink and is made with extremely hot peppers. <A> Pumpkins and pumpkin colored foods and drinks are often associated with Halloween. <S> Crushing: <S> Orange Wines <S> “That’s right: <S> red, pink and white have company,” exclaimed a recent newsletter from the Chelsea Wine Vault. <S> Laden with cartoony images of a wine glass filled with bright orange liquid and a grape vine dangling bright orange grapes, the newsletter featured an infamous, under-the-radar vino known as orange wine. <S> Save all judgment! <S> Unlike gimmicky green beer sold on St. Pat’s Day, orange wine has a legitimate backstory… <S> The practice of making orange wines, despite its relative anonymity, spans centuries, dating all the way back to Eurasian wine production in Georgia (and we’re not talking the Peachtree State here). <S> Much of the orange wine that is commercially distributed today comes from Italy (specifically its northeastern Friuli region), but other producers include France, Germany and California. <S> Orange Wines -- <S> A great get for your Halloween Party? <S> Photograph by: <S> Tom Censani
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A Google search for "Halloween themed beer" will yield several articles with similarly scary named beers such as here and here . Why not try some orange wine.
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What are some affordable brands of good Scotch? I've just recently begun drinking Scotch, and I find it absolutely delicious. However, most brands I see in the store are quite expensive. So far the best Scotch I've tried is Aberlour single malt, and although it's not prohibitively expensive, it's not exactly cheap either. What are some good brands of Scotch that won't break the bank? <Q> So, I am answering assuming you want to stick with single malts rather than go blended. <S> Also because people live in different parts of the world, prices may vary. <S> I would recommend Glenfiddich 12-y as a standard go to single malt and usually a bit cheaper than the rest. <S> Other good brands include Dalwhinnie and Dalmore(this one being my personal favorite) but these prices will range around the same as your Aberlour. <S> Lastly, I've once thought about getting cheaper single malts <S> but I have never tasted a good cheap single malt. <S> Were they decent? <S> A few, most were not the greatest and I would not buy again. <S> This has been my personal experience. <S> Hope that helps. <A> If you like Aberlour you will probably enjoy other Speysides, some well know brands are: Glenfiddich <S> Glenmorangie <S> Glenfarclas <S> The Balvenie <S> Dalwhinnie <S> They vary in price and each brand has different years which will obviusly effect the price. <S> Of the above the Glenlivet Founders Reserve and Glen Maray Classic tend to be on the cheaper end of the scale. <S> You can also pick up some really great whisky that isn't from a well known brand, for example here in the UK <S> we have a discount chain Lidl which does a really great Speyside that is really cheap: Lidl Ben Bracken Speyside Review <A> Are you looking for a single malt? <S> Those may be a little more expensive. <S> A blend like The Famous Grouse will include good scotches from the region including Glenturret. <S> If you are looking for something a bit smokier, I am a fan of Talisker Storm . <A> The problem you have is implied in the question: 'affordable' and 'good' Scotch don't really go hand in hand, depending on what you mean by affordable. <S> It's not a matter of brands, it's a matter of the average entry-point for a quality product, which is surprisingly consistent. <S> If a distillery produces a good whisky, they are going to price it according to it's quality. <S> In Canada, you can typically expect any bottle that costs over about 65 CDN to be what I'd call a good, drinkable Scotch. <S> A good metric to go by is the price of a Glenmorangie Original, or Aberlour 12. <S> These are two starter Scotches, and most bottles at or above their price point will be what I'd call a decent whisky. <S> Once you get under the prices of those two bottles you'll start seeing a hit in quality, and if you get significantly lower, like 30-40 <S> you're talking an entire tier down. <S> That said one recommendation to look into is 'McClelland's'. <S> It's most certainly not a premium Scotch, but it does perform well above <S> it's price point. <S> Another recommendation <S> I'd make is if entry-level and above Scotches are too expensive for you then check out some bourbon and Irish whiskies. <S> Black Bush, Writer's Tears, and Bulleit Bourbon or Rye are quite drinkable whiskies for a much better price. <S> FWIW, I'd also hazard against the Glenfiddich 12 recommendation above, it is affordable but is a notoriously weak Scotch. <A> Another great Whiskey that I can recommend is "Jameson Black barrel". <S> This is an Irish whiskey but it tastes different from most traditional Irish whiskeys.
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If you're looking for affordable single-malts, I can recommend: Deanston, Cardhu 12, Glenfarclas Heritage and some of the Glenfiddich's whiskeys. The Glenlivet Glen Moray
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What soft drinks mix well with alcohol to make a great drink? What soft drinks mix well with alcohol to make a great, yet unique tasting drink? We have all heard of rum and coke which is known as a Cuba Libre . I would like to try some other soft drinks with alcohol mixes that could be in someway less commonly known to the average person, like rum and coke. I would appreciate any recommendation possible and the reasons why the recommendation makes a great yet unique tasting drink. Bottoms Up! <Q> If you want something sweet you can try amaretto and coke ( some more detailed information) for an even sweeter experience you can even go for a mix with Dr pepper <S> It has a slimier taste to a bakewell tart <S> so it is recommended if you like sweet things <A> My favorite Hi Ball of all Time is Vernor's(an obscure, potent ginger all type soda) and whiskey. <S> Two powerful flavors that manage to keep their potency while still blending very well. <S> As a general rule for all of these Using a 12oz glass, I would pour 1.5 oz of liquor with 4.5oz soda directly over ice- stir gently. <S> Drink with a full sized straw. <S> Garnish with lime, orange, cherry, or lemon as appropriate. <S> (The straw may seem unimportant, but in fact it creates a different experience than a sip straw or no straw) <S> If you're into sweet things I recommend Tuaca and Cream Soda (Jones' is my favorite for this). <S> Tuaca is 80 proof and is sort of a Vanilla and Orange Liquor with butterscotch after notes. <S> It's sweetness blends well into soda(also Vernor's as above, coke, orange soda, etc..) <S> and very efficiently hides the alcohol. <S> Some traditional Hi-Balls: Vodka with Soda Water and Lime: <S> Descriptive words: <S> Strong, simple, skinny, diet, crisp Spiced Rum and Coke- <S> Quite different from a cuba libre. <S> Descriptive words: Sweet, easy, deceptive, spiced, flavorful Vodka and Tonic and Lime: <S> Descriptive words: <S> Strong, simple, skinny, diet, potent, blunt, Quinine Jack Daniels and Ginger: Descriptive words: Sweet, Bright, Easy, Traditional Scotch and Soda ( <S> The original Hi-Ball): <S> Descriptive words: Traditional, potent, slow-sipping <S> Some non-traditional quick combos: Cake Vodka and Coke: <S> Descriptive words: Soda Shop, Sweet, Vanilla Coke, Rich Whipped Cream Vodka and Orange Soda: Descriptive words: dessert, old-fashioned, soda shop, masked alcohol, deceptively strong Pear or Apple Vodka and <S> Sparkling Apple Juice: <S> Descriptive words: <S> Apple Pie, Crisp, Sweet, Refreshing Skinny Bitch - Vodka and Diet Coke: <S> Descriptive words: Diet, skinny, easy Dirty Shirley <S> - Vodka (or cherry vodka) <S> Ginger Ale (or Sprite) and grenadine(3/4 oz): Descriptive <S> words: Sweet, fun, masked alcohol, deceptively strong, bubbly Double O-7 <S> - Orange Vodka/ lemon vodka orange slice or splash of OJ mixed with <S> 7/up sprite : <S> Descriptive words: <S> Crisp, lively, effervescent, citrus, refreshing, bubbly Swamp Juice (Named for color of beverage) <S> - Mountain Dew and Captain Spiced Rum: Descriptive words: Energizing, sharp, citrus <A> 7 & 7 is popular Seven Up and Seagrams 7 Crown <A> Tastes like fuzzy peach juice. <S> You can mix 7-Up/Sprite with any of the other flavors of Cioc(or any flavored vodka if we generalize) but I find Peach the best for my personal tastes. <A> And do not forget the ice... <S> It is great one hot days. <S> Turns out <S> this is quite a hit in most of Europe already. <S> Who would have thought that red wine and coke would go this well together? <S> It is coke with a grape twist and its taste killer. <S> - Red Wine and Coke
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Try Red Wine and Coke . A very interesting one is Ciroc Peach with 7-Up/Sprite.
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Wine Recommendation for Soupe au Vin? Some years ago when I was in France, we would drink soupe au vin (wine soup) which was served extremely cold on hot summer days. Not being in France and the summer days are now getting hotter, I would like to make some soupe au vin myself. Here is my intended recipe: One bottle (750 ml) of wine Water (500 ml) Sugar (100 g) Strawberries (600 g) Toasted bread in cubes to be added just before serving Can anyone make a recommendation of what sort of wine would be best? The wine does not necessarily have to be red or French and if my recipe could be improved somehow please go for it. I simply recall that on hot summer evenings this was such a nice pleasant drink to have while using a bowl and soup spoon to drink it from. <Q> I think you are mixing up Soupe au Vin with Soupe au vin sucré <S> It looks like it can be either red or white wine, but mostly it's made with red wine. <S> A Burgundy or Beaujolais but not too expensive. <A> It can be red, white, or even sparkling wine (such as 'Crémant' , less expensive than Champagne, white or rosé). <S> The choice will affect the taste of the soup, so it's better to know whether the persons you intend to serve the soup to <S> will like this kind of wine. <S> There's no known to be the best wine, there's the one your guests <S> /you like :)You can then make the soup accordingly, and adapt the type of wine/strawberry/ingredients you use (lemon ? <S> mint ? <S> cinnamon ?...) <S> The bitter the strawberries, the sweeter the wine is a kind of good rule AFAIK. <S> If not using wine, I've had a really good experience with a blackcurrent cream (6/8°). <S> It came from Burgundy/France. <S> It gives a more sweet, and a little more thicker soup. <S> It can be use alone, or mixed (40% to 60 % or +/-) with red wine. <S> Pinot noir is my favourite, but @Ken already gave you some good tips about wines (Muscat, Chardonnay, Pinot, Asti , Gamay...) <S> so I'll focus about the if my recipe could be improved somehow part of your question. <S> I made soups with a couple of freshly cut mint leaves in it (feels really refreshing then). <S> You can also add cinnamon , or vanilla , or ginger in the wine when you heat it <S> (but I recommand not to use any two of them at the same time and mixing). <S> A tiny lemon juice (some drops) over the strawberries also adds some refreshing taste. <S> Instead of the toasted bread, little cubes of cinnamon bread is good too ( <S> but then, no cinammon in the wine when heating, otherwise, it's too much of it). <S> No strawberries ? <S> any fruit like raspberries, peaches or cherries can do it too... <A> Basically the Strawberry Wine Soup is an uncooked soup and as such a wine that is paired with strawberries should fit the bill. <S> So consider something from a cool-climate region, because cooler spots produce grapes with high acid: Germany's subtle, beautifully balanced dessert rieslings; a demi-sec (medium) champagne; or frothy, honeyed Italian moscati d'asti. <S> Choose a premium Bordeaux pudding wine such as sauternes if you really want to splash out. <S> Or go for a sweet muscat instead. <S> Muscat produces amazingly versatile dessert wines, juicy and fresh-tasting, even when they come from a warmer region and are strong and weighty in texture. <S> Think apricots, oranges, a drop of caramel. <S> And think affordable. <S> Muscats from southern France and moscatels from Valencia in Spain are extraordinarily well priced. <S> - Wine Review: <S> Wine to serve with strawberries <S> More wine pairing with strawberries can be seen here <S> This site <S> (Top 13 Fruits to Pair with Wine) <S> pairs strawberries as follows: <S> Strawberry Pairing White Wines : Champagne, Prosecco, White Zinfandel, Chardonnay Red Wines : Pinot Noir, Zinfandel <S> But then again one could simply go with strawberry wine . <S> Soupe de Fruits au Vin Rouge <S> As seen in the above image the French use all sorts of fruit in their Soupe au Vin. <S> This soup is simply not done with strawberries or toasted bread cubes.
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I would look for a fruity, light bodied red wine to complement the fruit and sugar.
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Sediment in expired Belgian Beer I have 3 bottles of La Chouffe Blonde Belgian Beer that is cloudy. It is out of date as of May of last year. Is it ok to drink? Theres a lot of sediment in the bottle. Can I decant or shake and drink? Thanks. <Q> Yes, it's ok to drink. <S> Belgian beer usually has a lot of sediment to begin with. <S> I've aged Belgian beers for several years. <S> Some taste quite good with that amount of age. <S> It's up to you if you want the sediment or not. <S> I am a decanting guy but not everyone is. <S> All you can do is pop it in the fridge and try it out! <A> It may be okay to drink or it may not, it depends how it's been stored. <S> If it's gone bad <S> it's not going to be poison or anything, just unpleasant to taste, <S> so there's no harm in trying it. <S> Treat it as if you'd just bought it. <A> Don't worry about the sediment, most of it will be yeast and if the beer was preserved properly it will still be alive. <S> It's up to your personal taste to add it or leave it in the bottle. <S> When I sample old bottles I listen to the sound the beer makes when I lift the cap, if it's quiet silent the beer goes down the drain. <S> I wouldn't age <S> La Chouffe Blonde myself <S> , it's a beer that get <S> 's most of it's character from subtle hoppy notes and those <S> are lost once the beer gets older.
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Sediment and cloudiness are common characteristics of many beers from that area, they aren't a sign of whether it is gone off or not. Personally I'm in the decant crowd, I usually find the sediment unpleasant, however that's all your personal taste.
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Besides wine, are there any alcoholic drinks associated with any religious rituals or customs? Besides wine, are there any alcoholic drinks (beer, liquors or liqueurs, etc.) associated with any religious rituals or customs? I am deliberately not interested in wine because it is associated with the eucharist and the Roman Ritual contains a blessing for wine which is associated with the Feast of St. John . The Roman Ritual also has a blessing for beer which I exclude as a response to this question as well as which beers are associated with Lent . Easter Beers and beers associated with any Christian liturgical season are to be excluded also. This question is open to religious rituals and customs of any belief, whether Christian, or otherwise. The brewing of beer is not to be considered a ritual either. <Q> <A> Of course there are! ' <S> associated with' allows for a great deal of latitude. <S> Lenten beers are an entire category in and of themselves, but since you don't really want to hear about the giant selection of Bocks and their variety of flavors and the rich history therein, we'll skip those for now. <S> Whisky as indicated here has been associated with religious rites. <S> Mead has been associated with various rituals, mostly from the Scandinavian regions. <S> Some of these rites and rituals are so ubiquitous that it's fairly common to hear people ascribe the origin of the phrase 'honeymoon' to drinking mead. <S> Chartreuse , 'the only liquor so good they named a color after it', is brewed by Carthusian monks. <S> These are just a few examples; some others, besides beer, wine, whisky, mead and chartreuse, include; ayahuasca, which isn't specifically brewed to be alcoholic, but tends to be stored and fermented kefir, which is technically haram, forbidden in islam, but definitely does get fermented kombucha, if you want something fun, which typically isn't part of a traditional religion (that I know of), but read the article. <S> It's pretty funny. <S> There's a lot of interrelation between alcohol and religion, because yeast has been around for a long time, and so have various religions. <S> Dig deep enough, you'll hit a religion that uses the drink. <A> Whisky and wakes were written about in <S> James Joyce 's Finnegans Wake as well as being sung about by the Dubliners . <S> Unfortunately this seems to be anecdotal, as I struggle to find more modern references. <S> Beer and sports (some follow it religiously). <S> Champagne and new years.
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According to this link Pastafarians have many holidays dedicated to alcoholic beverages including daiquiri day, Vodka day, wine day, lager day and many, many more. In fact, just in beer itself, there are several beers that are associated with, but not directly a result of, religious customs.
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What was the most common hard liquor of the Late Middle Ages? Is it possible to know what was the most common hard liquor of the Late Middle Ages? I am not asking for the strongest drink in the Middle Ages, but which hard liquor was the most common during the Late Medieval Period. <Q> I finally did a little digging. <S> The Late Medieval Period is generally considered from 1300-1500. <S> Whisky, did not become wide spread until the 1700s. <S> The first recorded instance of Whisky production was in 1494: <S> The Guild of Barber Surgeons.[15] <S> The earliest Irish mention of whisky comes from the seventeenth-century Annals of Clonmacnoise, which attributes the death of a chieftain in 1405 to "taking a surfeit of aqua vitae" at Christmas.[16] <S> In Scotland, the first evidence of whisky production comes from an entry in the Exchequer Rolls for 1494 where malt is sent "To Friar John Cor, by order of the king, to make aquavitae", enough to make about 500 bottles. <S> There is ample evidence that liquor distilled from grapes and other fermented fruit well before the 1300's and Brandy was widespread by 1500. <S> had a several hundred year head start on Whisky. <S> There were distilled beverages in Asia, but again not as widespread as Brandy in Europe. <S> Just based on the fact that the first mention of Whisky production isn't until 1494, only 6 years before the end of the Late Medieval Period and Brandy production is mentioned many times in The History and Taxonomy of Distilled Spirits before 1500, <S> I think we can safely assume that Brandy was the most widespread distilled beverage in this time frame . <A> I would imagine it would be either whiskey or wine brandy came from Brandivine (excuse spelling or similar pronunciation) meaning <S> burnt wine also cider was probably popular due to the fact that the water quality was poor <A> It would depend on the crop the region had plenty of. <S> Corn and rye would lean towards bourbon and wheat and potatoes towards vodka <S> but it's all shine in the end. <A> It depends on the region. <S> Most produced ales at the time were barley wines and meads, all reaching anywhere from 7% to 12% ABV. <S> (Roughly, I am not an academic in this by any means.) <S> As for liquor, I don't think liquors came around until later.
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Neither Brandy or Whisky was drunk as much as wine or beer during this period, but just from the time line it looks like Brandy was a) easier to make since you start with wine and no cooking involved until distillation b)
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Can I re-cork a beer bottle? If I open a bottle of Belgian beer-with a cork- drink a little then put the cork back in the bottle will the cork randomly pop or the bottle explode from any pressure? <Q> Yes, you can do this just like a bottle of sparkling wine. <S> It should keep the beer for a couple of days, but not forever. <S> Sometimes the corks don't work great, so I would buy a Champagne bottle stopper like the one below <S> Don't get the one that hold onto the ridge under the bottle opening. <S> They work great for Champagne bottles but not so good on Belgian beer bottles. <A> After opening the bottle the beer will begin to oxidize and degrade in quality, so flavor will begin to suffer shortly after opening. <S> Pressure will not continue to build in the bottle from fermentation, the yeast have consumed what residual sugar is present for bottle carbonation. <S> A recorked bottle will be most likely to drive out the cork if allowed to warm, or agitated physically. <S> A recorked bottle will be less likely to drive out the cork, if recorked warm, and then placed gently into cold storage. <S> Lastly, volumes of CO2 in Belgian beers can range wildly, but their level of CO2 is generally higher than domestic US beer, however much lower than champagne. <S> Pressure in the bottle will react as such. <A> We've tried doing this years ago, so as for any corked drinks, it doesn't pop out or randomly pop out, but in case you're wondering how it would taste like, there's two diversions of the taste, either the taste would randomly contribute to the corkage of the wine to make it taste better.
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That being said, the dissolved CO2 will remain in solution at cooler temperatures but escape rapidly as it warms, so capping while the bottle is cool and keeping the bottle cool will preserve more CO2 in solution after opening.
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Things people put in bottles of liquor or liqueur and are sold commercially? People put the strangest things in bottles of liquor to be sold commercially. We have all probably heard of liquor stores, pubs or other drinking establishments occasionally selling tequila with a worm in the bottle. Be what the history of the mescal worm is: true or false is not my question. The other day, I was in a local liquor store and noticed bottle of liquor called Eau de Vie de Poire in the Bottle with a real full sized pear inside the bottle containing 40% (ABV) of pear brandy. One can see how they get the pear in a bottle here and here . Eau de Vie de Poire Pear In The Bottle My question is quite simple: What other things are sold in bottles of liquor or liqueur commercially other than fruit or possibly worms (tequila)? <Q> There are two methods of inserting the snake into the alcohol. <S> The maker may choose to simply submerge the snake in the alcohol and seal the bottle, thus drowning the snake. <S> Alternatively, the snake may be put on ice until it passes out, at which point it is gutted, bled and sewn up. <S> When the viper is thawed and awakens, it will quickly die in an aggressive striking manner, which is what most producers look for. <S> The manufacturer will then put the habu in an ethanol bath for a month to preserve it. <S> Pit vipers immersed in a bottle of habushu. <A> You can see pretty much anything in the bottle. <S> This article provides a good first look (trigger warning!). <S> Besides the stuff described there I witnessed bottles with exotic fish, giant prawns, and kelp. <S> I even tasted some of them; we were not amused. <A> "Goldshlager" has little flakes of gold leaf, which is used for wood signs, and glass. <S> Gold leaf is expensive to purchase at the art supply store, and expensive for the customer who wants gold leaf pounded onto glass, or a customer who wants a sand-blasted redwood sign with gold leaf. <A> Two relatively boring answers: <S> The spherical plastic <S> widget <S> (yes, that's its official name) found in bottles and cans of Guinness stout. <S> I don't fully understand the physics, but it seems the point is something about generating a smooth and creamy head when the beer is opened and poured. <S> The "one-of-a-kind shimmer" found in Viniq fruit liqueur. <S> This how-to blog post <S> convincingly theorizes that the source of the shimmer is luster dust , more commonly used as an ingredient in cake frosting.
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Habushu is a common Japanese liqueur, where they put snakes inside the bottles.
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How to avoid egg white being cooked in drinks? So, i love to drink Peruan Pisco sours. You make these with Pisco, lemon juice, sugar and egg's white. You are supposed to shake the drink. However, every time i make this drink, i end up with little pieces of cooked egg in the drink. They are disgusting. How can i avoid this problem, while still conserving the the foam obtained with the eggs? Thanks. <Q> Several suggestions: On a fresh egg, remove the chalazae, the ropey bit in the white (it anchors the yolk); Use either pasteurized egg whites or powdered egg whites; Add ice only after the mixture has become foamy and voluminous; Use a finer mesh strainer (if bits are getting through your shaker strainer). <A> Chicago bartender here. <S> Dry shake first. <S> Then add ice and shake for 20 seconds. <S> Double strain through a mesh strainer. <A> I’m not familiar with pisco but whatever ingredient is cooking the egg(citrus juice I’d think) needs to be separate when shaking and added afterwords. <S> It may be already in the glass that you pour the cocktail but finding a bartender that makes them often enough will usually be willing to show you the steps.
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Try adding your egg whites to one half of the shaker and your pisco and citrus to the other.
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How long will an opened bottle of whisky last while stored under ideal conditions? I've recently made the decision to put my whisky collection into storage and slow down my drinking habit. Assuming I keep the bottles under moderate temperature, and out of sunlight, is there a ballpark figure to how long they'll remain palatable? More specifically, I'm interested in real numbers, and not just 'a long time'. <Q> Whisky will never go bad after it's opened and kept closed and away from sunlight. <S> How should I store my Scotch Whisky ? <S> Unlike wine, whisky does not mature in the bottle. <S> So even if you keep a 12 year old bottle for 100 years, it will always remain a 12 year old whisky. <S> Whisky that is stored at very low temperatures can become cloudy, but the cloudiness should disappear when the whisky is returned to room temperature. <A> Aged Whiskey has gone through the majority of its chemical changes during barrel aging. <S> It has been oxidized and condensed. <S> The final product is generally stable, however further evaporation of liquids will occur over time just as in the barrel aging process, so storage in airtight containers would be recommended. <S> Sunlight has been known to increase the amount of substances like hydroxymethlyfurfurals in stored alcoholic beverages like mead and wine. <S> I have not read any studies in direct correlation with whiskey, but with residual sugar present the production seems likely, thus storage in darkness, or non-UV light would also likely be a positive for long term storage. <S> Whiskey's shelf stability, especially if sealed, will bypass that of wine providing one of the most harsh environments for any sort of spoilage organism to take hold, with it's high ethanol content, as well as being more acidic than many more neutral liquors such as vodka. <A> In addition to other answers it is worth noting that there are some noticeable changes when the bottle is nearly empty, presumably due to evaporation inside the bottle. <S> Because of this many people either finish the last bit quickly, or decant it into smaller containers. <S> If you have any bottles like this, it may be something to consider with long term storage.
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As long as the bottle is kept out of direct sunlight, the Scotch Whisky will neither improve nor deteriorate, even if it is opened.
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How much alcohol is in rum extract? I generally use rum extract to make a "non-alcoholic" version of my eggnog recipe (which calls for rum and bourbon). However, the rum extract in my cupboard still technically has some alcohol in it, and therefore might not always be an acceptable substitute, depending on who I'm cooking for. What is the approximate difference in alcohol concentration when using an extract to mimic flavor, compared to the original spirit? I have always heard that the alcohol in (e.g.) rum extract is "trivial" or "insignificant," and certainly don't disagree -- but I am hoping for a more quantitative measure. <Q> As an example, McCormick Rum Extract has 35 percent alcohol, and lists the other ingredients as water, run, and natural flavor, in that order. <S> Depending on the volume of your other ingredients, the alcohol content may become insignificant. <S> Bakery emulsions are an alcohol-free alternative, a water-based flavor concentrate, such as those marketed by LorAnn Oils and Flavors . <A> How much alcohol is in rum extract? <S> That will depend on the rum extract being used. <S> McCormick Rum Extract has 35 percent alcohol. <S> Others have 40 to 45 percent alcohol in them. <S> Extracts are about 35% alcohol whereas most liquor is 40%, so you can pretty much substitute one for the other. <S> Most extracts labeled “pure” are a solution of whatever flavoring component they claim (vanilla, lemon, anise), some pretty strong alcohol (80 – 90 proof), and sometimes a bit of sugar syrup. <S> The chemicals that we recognize as a “taste” are alcohol-soluble, so the easiest way to concentrate them to a baking-ready liquid is to dissolve them out of their skins, seeds, or pods. <S> - extracts vs. alcohol in baking <A> Rum extracts have between 10 and 15% alcohol. <S> Given the amount of extract you use, the final content of alcohol in your recipe will be almost nil
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Even imitation extracts, rum and others, contain alcohol.
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How to recover a carboy of cider? I'm one of those people who puts nearly all my energy into things other than brewing. And yet I still do it a little. That's why I have a carboy of cider that is 18 months old in my basement. I don't know if the cider will be good or not when I try to bottle it, but I do know that all bubbling stopped long, long ago. I'm not sure if all the yeast is dead at this point (does that happen?) or if all the sugar is gone. Seems like one or the other must be true though. So on the off chance that I don't need to just pour this down the drain, what's my best bet for getting it carbonated in the growlers? Yeast? Sugar (though I actually used all honey initially)? Both? <Q> First, I would check to see if it's still drinkable. <S> You might have a carboy of apple cider vinegar if you haven't put any sulfites into it or somehow prevented from oxidation. <S> The way to test it is to get a siphon (that you have sanitized) and suck out a little to taste. <S> If it tastes ok, then you need to prepare for bottling. <S> I would follow these directions except when it says to prime with 1/2 cup of corn sugar, I would put in a little yeast (maybe a tablespoon?) and mix with some water before you bottle. <S> I'm sure the yeast in your carboy is dead at this point. <A> I once did the same thing. <S> I must have added water to the fermentation lock 4 or 5 times. <S> The taste was fine <S> so i just bottled it as usual. <S> I always suck up the part of yeast when bottling. <S> by the way, the yeast is dormant not dead. <S> Adding additional yeast would not hurt. <S> Just don't add it before boiling the sugar and water or cider or it will be dead. <A> I have used a soda stream to carbonate wine in the past. <S> It works well with very little work. <S> Once the fermenting is done in the bottle, turn the bottle upside down so that the yeast sediment settles in the neck of the bottle. <S> Once the yeast has settled and your wine or cider looks clear, you then place it in a freezer and watch for ice to form in the neck first. <S> Once the yeast sediment freezes in the neck only, remove it from the freezer and open the bottle and the frozen yeast can be easily removed. <S> Most of the time the pressure from the carbonation will push the frozen yeast wad out. <S> You can then top it off with more wine or cider if you plan on storing it for later.
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Make sure the yeast has dissolved. If you want to go with an old school method of carbonating in the bottle then you must be sure that your bottles are rated for 90PSI.
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Are there any Whiskey better for cocktails? I would like to know what whiskey is better with cocktails. I've bough the Jack Daniels, but I feel that the taste of the cocktail is off since the flavors of the Jack Daniels is stronger than others. I might be wrong but I really do taste the Jack Daniels in any cocktails involving whiskey. I wonder then what whiskey is mostly used for cocktails and what whiskey is mostly used for shots or straight consumption. If any of my sayings are wrong or badly expressed just let me know. <Q> Jack Daniels is not a whisky! <S> It is a Tennessee Whiskey! <S> That is very different to the Scotch whisky usually recommended in whisky cocktails, which require more of a bitter/tart edge than the sweetness of Jack Daniels. <S> For any whisky cocktail I personally would use a decent single malt Scotch whisky to get the best taste for me, but everyone's palate is different. <S> I only use Jack Daniels in sweet cocktails, or with cola. <A> So if you don't like that the Jack is getting so much attention in your cocktail, you can switch to something other than a rich Bourbon. <S> If you want a recommendation, you can try mixing Jameson with Ginger Ale as Longdrink. <S> Or if you want to mix a cocktail, the Long Island Icetea is a way to see if your choice of Whiskey mixes well with other spirits. <S> For this cocktail you can even choose a cheaper Whiskey, be it Bourbon like Jim Beam or Tullamore Dew as for an Irish one because it is more difficult to aknowledge the different spirits in the mixture. <S> And after all, you shouldn't mix expensive Whiskey in a cocktail, that's just not right. <A> You should really think about all of the different Scotch, Whiskey, and Bourbon selections as spices in a recipe. <S> Cinnamon and sugar go great on doughnuts but not so much with spinach salads. <S> Sure, <S> some people will <S> LOSE THEIR MINDS <S> if you were to put "a rare sipping ::insert spirit of choice::" into a coke... <S> But... if that is what you want to do. <S> You do it and enjoy it fully. <S> Start looking at Flavor Profiles and then learn what pairs well with the types of drinks you want to mix into them. <S> There are probably a lot of mixology-style techniques for drink prep (think Flaming Dr Pepper shot ) that I am unaware of.
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Personally, I mix Cocktails with Irish Whiskeys into cocktails because of their smooth taste and generally, because they match so well with other alcohols.
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Angove's 1995 "Port": Drinkable or Not? I came into possession of a bottle of fortified wine - it says on the label "Premium Vintage Angove's 1995 Port". I happened to be at Angove's cellar door doing a tasting and I mentioned to them that I had the bottle at home, and the person behind the counter gave me the impression that it was not likely to be worth keeping / drinking (without saying as much). There is little information that I can find about this wine on the internet, which leads my to my question": would it be possible / likely that this wine would be drinkable and possibly good? Here is the bottle in question: I cannot vouch for how it has been kept over the years, all I know is I've had it for four years or so but have never dared open it. <Q> What's the worst that could happen? <S> As it mentions on the label, "extended bottle maturation" where the port is bottled with unfiltered sediment usually means they should be cellared for 20 or 30 years or even 40 years. <S> So I'd suggest it will be coming into its own soon. <S> Give it another few years and then open it. <A> The person you talked to knows nothing about Port. <S> Port is meant to age a very long time. <S> Personally, I've had 50 year old ports that were excellent. <S> Port is made by stopping fermentation with alcohol leaving behind some unfermented grape juice and about 20% alcohol. <S> Because of the high alcohol, properly stored Port rarely has the problems that regular wine have. <S> Actually, part of the reason they started putting alcohol in wine like this was exactly for abuse. <S> It was meant to ship all over the world in adverse conditions and still be drinkable. <S> Enjoy your Port now or hold for as long as can. <S> Maybe up to another 20 years! <A> I would open at the next possible occasion. <S> Twenty three years is usually enough time for the majority of vintage ports to mature fully. <S> When the previous commenter says he’s had wonderful 50 year old ports, he surely means ones from the very highest quality <S> : (1) Producers - I don’t know much about Angove’s but my quick research has revealed some older vintages of Angove’s (early 70s) retailing for about $90. <S> Top vintage ports from this era typically retail much higher. <S> (2) <S> Vintages - how was ‘95 for Australian port? <S> I don’t know. <S> (3) Provenance - you said yourself you’re not sure if it’s been stored properly. <S> Good luck!
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That said, Vintage Ports are typically supposed to last a long time. If Angove's are suggesting it may not be good, then its value as an investment is going to be low or zero, so if I were in your shoes I'd probably open it and try it.
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What's a good (neutral) sample beer to spike with a sensory training kit? I recently ordered a sensory training kit from Siebel Institute. In short, glass vials of liquid isolating flavors (including off-flavors and contamination) commonly found in beer. The instructions explain how to spike samples of beer, but say nothing about how to select a suitable beer: I'll be hosting a party of six, and our tastes vary wildly: from craft drinkers to macro drinkers, and an enologist (winemaker). How should I select the base beer(s) to help us get the most out of this experience? Should we all have the same beer? If so, a macro, even though some dislike them? Or should I pick something like a pilsner? Or should I have two tiers, a macro and something else? (What kind of ale would be appropriate?) <Q> I would suggest a Kolsch or Helles Lager or a Mild. <S> Pilsners can be heavily hopped. <S> I have done a lot of this with wines when I taught winemaking classes at a community college near here. <S> We used very low aroma wines like a warm climate sauvignon blanc. <S> You want the same for this since you don't want anything to get in the way of your samples. <S> Also keep a small cup of coffee beans and water nearby to "reset" your nose and mouth between smelling and tasting. <S> I wouldn't do two different beers it will muddy things. <S> Good luck! <A> You should definitely all use the same beer as the base, and you want a beer that has a good balance of hops and malt. <S> Too much aromatic hops (e.g., an IPA) will mask the aromas. <S> Too much malt will mask the flavors. <S> A lighter, neutral beer is the way to go for an educational tasting. <S> I agree with <S> everything farmersteve said except for the part about the coffee beans. <S> That's an extremely strong flavor and aroma that will taint the beer tasting. <S> As one who dislikes coffee, I can say that smelling coffee beans would ruin whatever beer sample I next tasted. <A> I would choose Coors. <S> It's easy to get, always tastes the same so it makes for a good control. <S> Also, it is light in flavor so it won't mask anything.
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The less flavor the beer has, the more the "spiked" flavors and aromas will stand out. You want a mildly flavored, low hop beer for something like this.
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How should I drink limoncello? I was given some decent Limoncello from Italy as a gift, 30% proof, brand name 'Villa Massa' from Sorrento. I had a tiny sip of it and it is quite smooth, not too sharp and rather nice. However I'm not sure if I should continue drink it neat or whether to mix it with tonic water, lemonade or something else altogether. I've read it is good as a cocktail ingredient, but I'm not too keen on the hassle of making a cocktail. How should I take it ? <Q> Drink it neat but chilled. <S> the author of the Wikipedia entry seems to agrees with this statement too. <S> Limoncello is traditionally served chilled as an after-dinner digestiv <S> I would recommend it chilled in a chilled shot glass. <S> It’s an aperitif/digestiv <S> so you wouldn’t want to fill up on it... <S> Separately you are quite right though, it is a nice cocktail ingredient and there are plenty of recipies on your search engine of choice! <A> This is how limoncello is served in the province of Salerno (where it mainly comes from): <S> Very cold shot glasses <S> (they're not opaque, it's rime on them). <S> But I'd rather drink it in a cocktail, it's just tooo sweet for my taste. <A> The sweetness is a little much for me on its own <S> but I find it very refreshing, <S> So I tend to enjoy it as a frappe. <S> Simply equal parts ice and Limoncello and run it through “crushed ice” setting in the blender for a mintute or two. <S> Brilliant summer time drink! <A> I like it as a digestive, refreshed around a few °C above 0. <S> However, making some ice cubes in a freezer (nice to have a few of these special plastic bags in the freezer, each filled with a different liquor in fact), and after having crush a cube (e.g. with a mortar and pestle), adding that "slush" on top of an adequate cocktail (fruity one for instance) plus a leaf of mint, makes a great beverage. <S> Do not abuse those cubes… :o) <A> And above all, take the time to enjoy it in your mouth, as the essential oils, trapped into tiny droplets of some hundreds nanometer size, will be released giving rise to the taste of Limoncello. <S> Some more info can be found in this article: Looking into Limoncello: The Structure of the Italian Liquor Revealed by Small-Angle Neutron Scattering <A> I either pour a little at the bottom of a glass, and then add prosecco... or as of late... <S> I pour a shot of it into a fruity beer, such as a cranberry/ raspberry sour. <S> I call it an italian car bomb. <S> It's surprisingly refreshing.
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It is served cold, in a cold glass.
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Does adding honey to bottled wine increase the alcohol content? I purchased a Montepulciano, added 80 grams of honey and some pepper, and then put it in the fridge. A glass of it after 24 hours seemed to me more alcoholic than what it was originally. Is it psychological, as I had read this was the case (but can't find the source right now, and I tend to think it's not true), or is the increase of ABV real? <Q> Highly unlikely that the alcohol went up. <S> Four reasons. <S> The alcohol already in the wine is a barrier for the yeast to re-ferment. <S> The sulfites in the wine could inhibit refermentation if it hasn't dissipated yet. <S> The cold temperatures that will also inhibit fermentation. <S> Many commercial wines are sterile filtered so yeast counts are zero to very, very tiny. <S> So, in 24 hours it's highly unlikely that it fermented again. <S> High alcohol wines routinely taste "sweeter" to many people even though sugar levels are low. <S> You might have tricked yourself into thinking sweet wine = higher alcohol. <A> It's pretty unlikely. <S> Given that it was a commercial wine <S> I do <S> n't there was much live, viable yeast in the bottle. <S> Particularly if sulfites were added, triggering additional fermentation would probably be difficult. <S> On top of that, refrigerating it for the whole 24 hours means that, even if there was viable yeast uninhibited by sulfites, it's very unlikely it much fermentation could occur. <S> It's possible you could see some fermentation due to the Crabtree effect <S> but it wouldn't have been much. <A> The feeling of alcoholicity, at tasting, is very dependant of many factors, such as temperature of beverage, sugar, glycerol and a few other molecules content, and of course personal abilities of the taster as well as the preceeding tastings. <S> Concerning the present situtation, a simple experiment is a comparative tasting : keeping two glasses of the same wine, in closed glasses (sealed with plastic film to limit oxygenation/oxidation), put them aside the honeyed bottle in the fridge ; then a few minutes before tasting, get them all off the fridge, serve a glass from the bottle ("glass 1"), in "glass 2" (one from the fridge) add the same relative quantity of the same honey that was added in the bottle, and in the last fridge glass ("glass 3"), add the same relative quantity of white sugar. <S> Again seal the three glasses in order to mix "2" and "3", and let them dissolve their addings (without forgetting to shake "glass 1" as much as the 2 others), and finally get all three be at the same temperature. <S> Then taste, or better, have someone taste them without knowing which is what (blind tasting)… Not a complicated experiment, but sure the best way to know. <S> My bet is "1" and "2" will be considered almost the same, and eventually a bit more alcoholic than "3". <S> And my proposition for an explanation is that in honey, there are other molecular chemicals that enhance the feeling of alcohol (ethanol) (other "-ol"s and esters…?).
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Your perception of alcohol may be enhanced by the sugar that you added.
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Best way to consume Mezcal? About Mezcal I know that Mezcal is a drink made from 100% agave and so a more pure drink than Tequila. Rather bad Mezcal will include a "worm" which is a larva of two different kind of insects, as I read. But except of the curious "tradition" that the last shot comes with the "worm" I do not know much about how to enjoy a good Mezcal in best way. I would take it like a Whisky (pure at ambient temperature), but is it better on the rocks, with soda, cold, with salt and lemon or sugar and orange (like Tequila) or in a much better way as a cocktail? I assume there must be other (better) tradition and receipts on Mezcal than just swallow the worm? Are there any recommendations about the glasses to be taken with respect to the different alternatives? I have read that, comparable to Tequila, Mezcal frequently is consumed with a lemon and a spice made from salt with chilli. I would use that only to cover the taste of a bad product. <Q> As you said, many of the traditions like salt & lime are primarily used to disguise low-quality tequila and mezcal. <S> If you're buying a reposado, añejo, or aged mezcal, you'll want to get the full aroma and flavor. <S> The colder the drink, the less aroma you get. <S> Room temperature is recommended by most distilleries. <S> Using a snifter glass, as Jedicurt suggested, lets you warm the liquor a bit more with your body temperature, which releases even more of the aromatics. <S> While there are mezcals that have the "worm" (it's actually a caterpillar or larva) in the bottle, they're generally the ones you want to avoid if you're drinking for flavor. <A> First of all mezcal does not contain a worm, it's a hollywood misconception and if you ever find one do not drink it <S> The average way to drink mezcal is just raw but there are other ways to drink it <S> Salt or chilli powder around the edge of the caballito (the tiny glass) Drops of lemon Mixed with grapefuit soda <S> Mixed with mineral water <S> Blue gatorade mixed with coconut cream (we call it pitufo or smurf) <S> Pomegranate glucose syrup and ginger beer with ice and a couple of others <S> I don't remember <S> but these are the average ways to drink mezcal <A> Sadly don't have a link for this, but had a tasting locally put on by a rep from Pierde Almas. <S> The way we were directed for a "traditional" drinking was in a snifter and served at room temp. <S> He said that you should always start a drink with a deep smell. <S> To keep your mouth closed and you breathe in the scent, and then open it while taking this breathe so that you go from smelling to tasting the aromas. <S> You then take sips and let it sit in your mouth for about 10 seconds while you exhale slowly through your nose. <S> And that as you keep doing this, you will start to smell and taste all the Mezcal <S> has to offer. <S> Again, I don't have any links for this. <S> Just what I was told in person by the Rep.
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While I certainly know a lot of tequila and mezcal drinkers that add ice to their drinks -- I've been known to do it myself -- we'll generally add a single ice cube after taking that first big whiff to experience the aroma.
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Do beer bottles explode in freezer? I have had cola cans explode in my freezer. But I cannot afford to test this on my long neck beer bottles. Do beer bottles (or cans) explode in a freezer (of a typical fridge in a household) ? <Q> Yes, they will. <S> Given beer is (generally speaking) more than 90% water, and water expands when frozen, beer will make a mess of your freezer if left in there too long. <S> The bottles themselves don't tend to break, in my experience, but the cap seals fail and the beer will leak out everywhere. <A> They do not explode (in a sense of explosion crushing your freezer) but may break. <S> I have forgotten once three (different) bottles of beer in the freezer over night. <S> Results: a) broken off bottom, b) sealed off cap, c) <S> nothing happened (with the bottle, the beer turned to beer-ice of course). <A> Bottles do not necessarily break or open. <S> Seems to depend on the thickness of the glass. <S> These three bottles stick together by ice. <S> Brazilians love ice-cold beer. <A> There is indeed the possibility that a bottle of frozen beer does not break. <S> It depends mainly on the amount of alcohol in the beer and how the bottle was filled. <S> You can expect that a normal beer expands by approx. <S> 6.5-7.5% in volume when you start cooling at approx. <S> 20 <S> °C. <S> If the bottleneck can contain this volume increase, the bottle should not break. <S> This would be usually the case with homebrews. <S> The exact amount depends on how much alcohol and solids are in the beer, as ethanol does not expand when the temperature is lowered and solids do not change their density significantly. <S> Depending on the alcohol content and the temperature of the freezer, the beer might not even freeze solid, or at least not fully, as ethanol lowers the freezing point substantially. <S> With a bad freezer, high ambient temperature (e.g. on a hot summer day) or short freezing times, the possibility of breaking the bottles is rather low. <S> You could weld your beer into 2 inch thick cast iron and it would break just like your glass bottle. <S> A better container would, however, be less susceptible to leaks. <S> A modern beer can would most likely not survive the process because it deforms at the top and creates a leak at the lid.
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Because ice has a very low compressibility compared to water and ethanol, you cannot expect that better and thicker bottles will solve the problem unless they have the necessary amount of elasticity.
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Kinds of wine, how to identify same grape differences A brief explanation with beers : I love IPAs , but some of them are a disgrace to the kind, when I'll buy some, I look for the alcohol and IBU level, so I know I'll like the beer before I even buy it. A few months ago I discovered that I also like some wines, more precisely cabernet and malbec , but unfortunately I don't find every malbec tasty. Doesn't matter if it's red or white, I like some and dislike others. I've been looking for a way to know if I'll like the malbec wine or not, but most of the tips I find tell me to memorize the "wine factory" I like the most, but I don't think it's a good method. Is there a way, a measure, like the IBU, or some other characteristics, that can help me to see if I'll like the malbec wine or not? PS: I'm good with the cabernet, as for now, I've liked every one I tasted. <Q> Your liking one wine over another is a purely subjective practice. <S> This is what makes picking out wines so difficult and expensive because you have to try it before you'll really know if you like it. <S> Some people enjoy the journey and others want to be told what to buy. <S> My suggestion is to try as many Malbecs as you can afford. <S> Narrow down wineries and regions that you like. <S> Let's say you figure out you like Chilean Malbecs or Washington State ones, then I think you know that a region will have similar flavors. <S> Unfortunately, that's probably all we can do for you. <S> So, just get out there and taste as many as you can! <A> Farmersteve's answer is good <S> but I'd like to add a little extra to consider. <S> You've only tried wines made with two grapes. <S> The world of wine is much broader than this. <S> The popular red grapes include Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah, and many others. <S> Also, there are wines made from blends of grapes such as found in the Southern Rhone. <S> I'm lucky to have access to a few <S> and you can get good advice from the salespeople. <S> Good stores won't look down on you for starting with inexpensive wines. <S> A lot of shops have free tastings which is a great way to try different wines without investing in a whole bottle. <S> I was a bit confused by you implying you have had white Malbec. <S> Malbec is a red wine grape and while it might be possible to make a white wine from it, I've never heard of one <S> and it would certainly be uncommon. <S> If you are getting started, you should probably try Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs for white wines although there are lots of other white wine grapes. <A> The taste of a wine derives from ... <S> the grape variety the ripening conditions of the grapes (includes climate, region, year, nutrients etc.) <S> secondary fermentation (type oak, time etc.) <S> yeast strain(s) <S> (cultivated or wild etc) <S> style (e.g. beaujolais, ice wine etc.) <S> Information about the secondary fermentation could give you an idea how the wine tastes, especially about oak tannins. <S> Information about the yeast strains would most likely either be a trade secret or a mix of wild yeasts that depends on the natural blend that occurred in that year in that particular vineyard. <S> This is, at least to some extent, what creates the difference between "a good vintage" and a bad one. <S> The effect of the grape variety on the actual taste is often overrated. <S> Oak flavours are sometimes more dominant than most people would imagine and the same variety grown in different regions can create entirely different profiles. <S> Instead of looking for certain varieties, I would suggest considering information about wine regions, vineyards, alcohol content and, if given, descriptions on tannins, oak and fruit flavours. <S> Third party reviews might help but there is never a guarantee that they are in any way correct. <S> IBU is btw a bad way to measure bitterness in most beers where is matters. <S> It entirely neglects large portions of the flavour profile found in hops, in particular those that give an IPA its typical taste. <S> The bitterness also changes with time, which is not accounted for either. <S> The higher the malt content, the more hops you need to compensate for the same taste. <A> As noted in a comment Malbec is only red. <S> The common term is wine producer. <S> Sometimes referred to as label. <S> In (nominal) order the factors are Grape Region / vineyard Year Producer / process <S> Malbec has a pretty broad range. <S> Initially was used almost exclusively as a blending wine. <S> A cheaper wine is going to have more variance. <S> They are often buying a grape from an number of vineyards. <S> There are publications. <S> Find a wine reviewer that you match their taste. <S> At your wine store get to know one of knowledgeable sales people. <S> Ask for advice and then next time tell them what you thought of the wine. <S> They will get to know your taste. <S> Or you might tell them some of wines you like and ask for a recommendation. <S> Go to wine tasting <S> were you get to sample a number of wines.
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What I do recommend is seeing if you have a good local wine store. Bitterness also changes with stronger beers.
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Can wine be made from all edible fruits? I am an amateur in the topic, so I was wondering, can all edible fruits be turned into a fruit wine? Why have grapes historically become the main fruit for wine making over other fruits? <Q> Yes, wine can pretty much be made from all edible fruit, including tomatoes . <S> But the reason we make wine out of grapes is three fold. <S> Sugar, tannins and acids. <S> Sugar . <S> Grapes produce the highest naturally occurring amount of sugar of any fruit. <S> Almost no other fruit comes close. <S> Grapes have the ability to make wines that are anywhere from 10-18% alcohol and even higher in the case of late harvest grapes that have too much sugar to finish alcohol production. <S> Acid . <S> Grapes have a very high naturally occurring acid levels coming from Tartaric acid. <S> Acids help preserve wine and keep the nasty bugs from eating the sugar. <S> They also make it more drinkable. <S> Wine without any acid is flat and awful. <S> It's like beer without hops. <S> Tannin . <S> Red and white grapes contain tannin in both the skins and seeds. <S> These are a natural antioxidant that help preserve the wine for long term storage. <S> No other fruit has the right combination of attributes to do this on it's own. <A> If they can make wine out of durian fruit, then one can make wine out of any fruit. <S> Most people find the taste or flavor of this fruit disgusting. <S> In fact durians are not allowed on the Singapore subway or on many commercial flights at all. <S> Sign informing that Durian fruit is not allowed inside the Singapore subway. <S> Yet durians can be made into wine and what is great about it, is the fact that the durian wine is devoid of its' pungent smell. <S> It's a formidable feat pulled off by a team of student researchers at the National University of Singapore who hope to commercialize their durian wine and see the product on store shelves. <S> Known as both the "King of Fruits" and the world's stinkiest fruit, the durian is likewise perhaps the most polarizing food with people who either love it hate it. <S> After testing out different fermentation methods, the end result is a wine of 6 percent alcohol which is devoid of the fruit's pungent smell. <S> World's stinkiest fruit is turned into wine <A> Contrary to the others, I'll say no , at least if you're going to have some reasonable definition of the word "wine". <S> Fruits which will produce no fermentable juices are simply not going to work. <S> If you have to treat the fruits in such a way as to convert starches in order to get sugars to ferment, can you really call the product a "wine", even in a loose sense? <S> You are going to struggle mightily to produce wine from avocados or eggplants, for example... <S> even limes are so low in sugar and high in acidity that even after neutralizing some acid you will have to add a bunch of sugar to have anything to ferment... <S> in this case, you're really making a flavored kilju, rather than a wine. <S> And if you want to get technical about fruits, then "all fruits" is actually a very broad category . <S> Brazil nuts, maple keys , and even carrot seeds are all fully-fledged fruits that are going to be very difficult or impossible to extract a fermentable juice from. <S> Of course, you could probably use a koji to first saccharify your initial base and produce something like a sake, but despite the colloquial misnomer "rice wine", if you're going to call this a wine, then you can do it with nearly anything: why limit yourself to fruits? <S> Then is there really a further difference with kvass or even kumis . <S> Is beer now wine? <S> This is completely discounting the whole classes of toxic fruits that you might be able to produce something technically alcoholic but definitely nondrinkable from, e.g. belladonna and other toxic nightshades, baneberries , etc.
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Since grapes have such natural high sugar levels, they also have large colonies of yeast on the skin (aka the bloom) and because of this, grapes are a complete package requiring nothing else to make a high alcohol beverage that can be stored for a very long time without spoiling.
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Beer expired last year and this year We have lots of Blonde beer which expired last year and some expired May this year. Is it still safe to drink? <Q> Most likely - Yes, it is safe to drink it. <S> Your beer is almost guaranteed to be safe to drink for humans. <S> No pathogens like alcoholic beverages. <S> Your beer could taste bad, but 1 year over expiration date is usually nothing serious. <S> A lot depends on the type of beer + alcohol percentage + earlier exposure to oxygen + present bacteria in the beer. <S> When I brew Blondes, wheat beer or beers with belgian yeast, I'd rather have them condition in the bottle for several months before I drink them. <S> Maybe your beer has become even better and more conditioned. <S> Good luck tasting! <A> From experience the only way you will be able to know it to crack one open and give it a try you <S> they will be safe to drink. <S> Of course if you try them and it tastes funny <S> (e.g sour/bitter) or is not what expected in terms of carbonation <S> (don't know what blond beer you are talking about to say) then just pour away <S> there is no harm in giving it a try <A> Yes it's safe to drink. <S> There is nothing in there that wasn't in there already. <S> If it was stored properly it should show some signs of aging which can be a good thing if you are into that. <S> The oldest beer I ever drank was a 9 year old doppelbock and it was still pretty darn good. <S> I have had beers turn to malt vinegar after a few years. <S> Just open it and taste it! <A> Dark beers often age better than Lighter beers, and since the beer past its BBD is a Blond beer the taste could be affected. <S> To preserve beer it is essential to shield it from its 3 enemies: <S> Oxygen: bottlecaps are NOT airtight oxygen can get in and ruinyour beer. <S> Light: Keep your beer in the dark, light can make it taste like cardboard. <S> Temperature: Keep your beer no warmer than 15 degrees Celsius. <S> Higher temperatures can affect the taste. <S> This is why I only buy dark beers in a can (no light can get into a can) when they are close to the BBD, and then keep them cold. <S> But even if you kept your blond beers in a bright and warm environment they are still safe to drink. <A> My brother stayed at a hotel while his house was being built and he moved to town a year or so before it was finished. <S> He would buy Bud Light and drink what he could while it was cold and just put the unoppened bottles in the corner of his room. <S> I came over and moved all the beer after like 8 months <S> and I had like 20 12/18 packs of Bud Light. <S> These were cold origionally but then sat in a room that was at 65 degrees <S> (he ran air all the time) and it was dark in there - pretty much used it to sleep in and kept busy at my house or at friends when he wasn't there. <S> A 3rd was expiring in the same month I was drinking it - tasted like the beer he would buy from store with an expiration date 2 months from when he bought it. <S> Then I got to August (it was October) <S> - tasted the same. <S> Then June - tasted fine - had carbination - didn't notice. <S> Then April - I was amazed when I had a December 2019 expiration beer followed by the April one, and they tasted the same. <S> Then March, tasted fine. <S> January I havn't gotten to yet. <S> The only beer I noticed a difference from was from cans <S> - he had two 24 packs with feb expiration dates. <S> It tased funny but drinkable <S> - had kinda a flat sweeter taste <S> - I give those to friends when they drink all their beers (some when they stop by for a moment - just to test the beers) - I don't tell them and they drink it like it was any other beer <S> (makes me think the Feb cans is a placibo effect for me). <S> Just thought I would share.
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If you have bacteria in your beer, you will just have another style of beer (see Sour Beer). Overall the only way to see if it is ok is to pour one and give it a taste
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A brand of scotch that routinely prints the release year on the bottle? I enjoy drinking scotch, and I am about to have my first child. I would like to buy a bottle of scotch that has the year my child is born printed on it, and then give them the scotch as a gift when they turn 30 or so. I am well aware that the scotch won't age the same in a bottle as it would in a cask, but the idea is that I will be able to give my child something that I have held for them for 30 years. I am aware that I could find a special one-time release of some sort, but I am looking for a brand of scotch that routinely prints the year it was released somewhere on the bottle because when I have my second child a few years down the road, I would like to do the same thing for them, and I thought it would be nice if they were the same scotch. The closest thing that I can find is Booker's Small Batch Bourbon from Jim Beam. They do a few special releases a year, and the release year is printed on every bottle. If I cannot find a brand of scotch that does something similar I will just go with the Booker's. However, I thought I would ask this question here in case anyone is familiar with the sort of thing I am looking for. It would also be nice if it was a speyside or highland scotch, but that is not really necessary. I thank anyone in advance for taking the time to read this, and hopefully being able to point me in the right direction. Best regards,Josh <Q> I think there are two ways to look at this. <S> it will just take some leg work. <S> Even cheap Old Turkey has a bottled date stamped on the label <S> Then the other way is to do some reverse math. <S> There is such a thing as vintage whisky. <S> Distilled and put into barrels in say 1990 and aged 25 years. <S> So it would be bottled in the year 2015. <S> Obviously you might have to wait until they bottle it the year someone is born. <S> You can see some of this at the G lenfiddich website (unfortunately they have an "are you old enough question" to get past). <S> The last option is to just buy a bottle of 20 year old whisky the year someone turns 20 (or whatever year you want) and just give it to them then when it's released by the distillery. <S> Holding on to a bottle for 20 years or so can leave it vulnerable to all types of accidents. <S> Don't risk it and just buy the bottle when they turn 21 or whatever age you want to bestow it upon them. <A> Just to extend farmersteves answer... <S> There are quite a few that produce limited releases annually. <S> These tend to be limited releases produced either by a new brand or established distilleries but they are usually limited to smaller cask numbers. <S> As they are limited I would expect you to have to pay a bit more, many sell out quickly from shops so you may have to use an Online Auction. <S> The following auction is highly regarded and this search (simply for the year 2018) will contain many of this years release. <S> Note in these cases 2018 is the year it was bottled, the age determined by when the cask was put down. <S> Whisky Auctioneer search for 2018 whiskies <S> Just yesterday MacAllan released one limited to a few hundred but very difficult to get and managed very poorly by them if I say so myself... Finally. <S> I am also aware some distilleries let you buy casks to bottle at a later date, or alternatively buy a bottle from a yet to be bottled cask. <S> If you do it this year you could request the bottling at a specific milestone for your child (I know people who have done this). <A> I just looked at several of my bottles, and the only one having a date on the bottle was Ardbeg and it was stamped on the bottle not on the label. <S> You should look at smaller distilleries as they would use it as a marketing gimmick. <S> An alternative would be to buy a bottle of Laphroaig which allows you to register a square foot plot of land at the distillery and get a certificate for it, which includes the date of registration. <S> If you expand your horizons, many bourbon distilleries in the US either batch or date their bottles by hand. <S> Bean-ball Bourbon from Cooperstown does, others such as Hillrock give a batch number, and Hudson Valley also does batch numbers by hand. <A> I've seen several scotches that are labeled "From the harvest of..." a particular year, if you want the birth year to correspond to the production year. <S> I got my kids vintage ports since they 1) age <S> well nearly indefinitely if properly stored, and 2) everybody can tolerate a little glass of port even if they don't like alcohol. <A> This is not a very common practice, but there are some options: <S> I know for a fact that Laphroaig currently print the bottling year and month on their 27yr old. <S> There are probably others, but I suspect these will all be on the older/expensive end. <S> look for single cask bottlings, as these are more likely to print this information. <S> Single cask bottlings are rarer directly from distilleries, but quite common from independent bottlers. <S> Finding more examples is likely to involve manual inspection of labels, some of which might be possible with images posted online.
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Some distilleries do put the date when they bottled the whisky/scotch Pick a annual limited release option like the Bowmore warehouseman's selection that has been created for a specific year.
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What ingredient may I be allergic to in certain beers? Mandatory disclaimer: I'm not asking for health related advices, this question is just out of pure curiosity . I drink the occasional beer, wine, or whatever other alcoholic drinks: no issues with that, not getting drunk with just a beer, etc. etc. But...since I have memory, a single red beer can put me under the table. From the next day . (yeah, not the same day) With lot of stomach and intestinal pain and "funny" side effects. And a few days needed to recover. Now, it's not a big deal: on my list of things to avoid "Red beer" has been put in the top 5, and problem solved. It doesn't happen with 100% of the reds, but at 95% occurrence I just play safe...plus I prefer dark beers anyway :-D Only, exactly one week ago I got the same amazing effects, but worst, and I'm still halfway from full recovery...from a bock. Ok, "bock" is a pretty wide definition, but while I'm not an expert on beers I've always been pretty certain that if I order a bock I never feel bad the next day. So now I'm extremely curious to understand what it may be to knock me down this way, but as I said I'm no expert and that's the reason I'm asking here. Question : What 95% of red beers and a Scheyern Kloster Doppelbock Dunkel (Poculator) have in common, in terms of ingredients and/or preparation? (bonus: I get the same effect with some Scotch) <Q> Sounds like allergy to malted barley or other grains, such as wheat and sorghumhopsyeastassorted colorings, flavorings, and preservatives <S> Can you eat rye normally? <A> What ingredient may I be allergic to in certain beers? <S> (Bonus: I get the same effect with some Scotch) <S> If I were to take a guess as to what could possibly cause your medical condition, I would say that it is the possible gluten content in the beer. <S> I am celiac myself and can not drink most beers because of the exact symptoms you are experiencing at times. <S> Though celiac disease and wheat allergies are often confused due to similar diet restrictions, people diagnosed with wheat allergies may still consume rye and barley <S> whereas celiacs cannot. <S> Read: most beers are off limits, but wine and hard alcohols are not. - 10 Myths And Facts About Celiac Disease <S> As for scotch: From a gluten-free standpoint, scotch is safe to drink for most of the celiac population. <S> Even though whiskeys are commonly derived from barley, a gluten-containing grain, they are distilled alcohols, which means the gluten proteins have been removed to less than the proposed FDA standard of 20 parts per million. <S> There is always the potential that the distillation process doesn't completely remove the gluten. <S> If you are ultra-sensitive, then it may be prudent to avoid scotch, but most celiacs tolerate distilled alcohols just fine. <S> Just like with all foods and beverages, it's important to check the ingredients statement to determine if any gluten-containing ingredients have been added, and to call the manufacturer <S> should you have any concerns or uncertainty. <S> - <S> Can I Drink Scotch? <A>
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Off the top of my head - any allergy to wheats or grains pertaining to the alcohol being consumed, and then also gluten sensitivity, allergy to hops or sensitivity to the alcohol itself
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I buy a bottle of wine from a supermaket - can you tell where it's come from? Many wines are often sold under different brand names, or sold with a very generic label (Merlot - France). Of course these wines will all have come from a chateau/co-operative/blender somewhere, I was wondering if there was anything on the label that would identify these wines further, or if it is pot luck. <Q> Looking at large supermarket brands, sometimes all that is necessary is listing country of origin and a vague address on the back (and other things like alcohol % and size of bottle). <S> They don't even need to put the types of grapes on if they don't want too. <S> So, to your questions, if you can't find anything on the label about the manufacturer of the wine, it will be very difficult to track it down if they don't want. <S> That's the price you are paying, a super low price without a lot of questions asked. <A> Usually you can get a significant amount of information from a wine label. <S> I would suggest simply doing an Internet search for a comprehensive review of what you can glean from a label. <S> Wines, such as those marketed as Trader Joe’s Charles Shaw label, are not specific to a vintage or region for that matter. <S> If I recall correctly these wines referred to as “Two Buck Chuck” has sold for $1.99 a bottle and is a blend of grapes from many unidentified sources, but may be listed as a California Merlot, etc., specificity beyond that is a guess as to region or vintage. <A> For wine from France, all bear address of the producer or the cooperative due to traceability and customs, it may however be retagged out of the country. <S> Most French wines also bear AOP information, which states the geographical domain of production. <S> As for other countries, I don't know.
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Depends on the country, but companies can make it very hard to find where the wine is made and where the grapes are grown.
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Ice cubes in rum I drink my rum straight. Recently was sipping on a glass of rum and a mate poured some cubes (before filling the rum) into his glass. If this is not the same difference of opinions vis a vis whiskey & cubes, I’d appreciate some (distinct) criticisms of the pros and cons of ice cubes in rum. <Q> When it comes to what is socially accepted in the US, ice is mostly reserved for the harsher stuff like bourbon and scotch. <S> The ice serves a purpose of diluting the liquor, thus making it smoother on the way down. <S> It serves a purpose for different whiskies that have harsher spice notes. <S> Tequila, vodka, brandy, cognac, and rum should be put in the freezer rather than mixed with ice (unless in a mixed drink). <S> This isn't to say ice will ruin any of these drinks, but more so that they are generally considered to be smoother and thus do not need ice. <S> While spiced rum might be harsher than the rest, it is still kept in the freezer with the other rums. <S> That being said, it's all personal preference. <S> Drink it the way you like it! <A> I find rum good when it is served neat, but then I am far from a connoisseur on the subject of rum. <S> It really is an amazing drink because it’s made in so many different places and in so many different ways (white, aged, agricole, black strap, spiced, etc). <S> The following may be helpful in drinking rum: <S> Most spirits are distilled to 40 percent alcohol by volume, or 80 proof, but many rums are bottled at higher proofs. <S> His rule of thumb: “I'd say 45 percent [ABV] or lower you should drink it neat, but anything above that you may enjoy more with dilution.” <S> - The 5 Most Useful Rules for Drinking Rum <A> Ice in any spirit is always about personal preference. <S> Adding ice does two things to any spirit, regardless of category: It lowers the temperature, slowing down evaporation of the ethanol, making the spirit more pleasant to smell and softer on the palate. <S> It dilutes the spirit, again softening the effect of the ethanol on your palate. <S> Some people will opt for a few drops of water instead of ice in order to get the dilution, but more stable (as the ice melts, the dilution increases) as well as not dropping the temperature too low for the nose to really come through. <S> Ultimately, this is about preference. <S> Try a rum neat. <S> Then try it with a few drops of water. <S> Try it with ice. <S> Which way did you prefer? <S> Drink it like that. <S> You'll find that different rums (and different styles of rum) will suit you more with ice, with water, or neat. <S> And those preferences will change over time. <S> When I was tasting new rums for reviews multiple times a week, I became more tolerant of the bitterness of the alcohol and found I was drinking heavier, harsher rums neat more often. <S> These days I'm more likely to add water or even ice on a hot day. <S> Drink <S> what makes you happy (unless it's Captain Morgan).
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For those stiffer rums, “adding ice or a splash of water will mellow it out so the alcohol vapors don't overpower the subtle flavors,” says Vida.
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Does it make sense to store hard liquor in the freezer? I usually see bars keeping spirits at the room temperature.However, I have heard that some people tend to keep them in the freezer.Alcohol doesn't freeze, and having ice cold spirits readily available might be convenient. I use hard liquor for both cocktails and to be drank without mixers, on the rocks. So the question is: does it make sense to store hard liquor in the freezer? More info: I understand that cocktail recipes are adapted for spirits kept at room temperature, as introducing ice dilutes the drink. So the result might be different with very cold spirits. I live in the tropics and the kitchen (where I keep liquor) is not air-conditioned, so the room temperature is frequently at around 30C and might not be appropriate, which is another reason why I ask this question. <Q> This mostly comes down to personal preference. <S> Think about it this way: beer can be served at room temperature or cold, but when most people (in the US) ask for a beer, they want a nice cold brew. <S> Go to a place like Germany and their beer may be served at room temperature. <S> One overall benefit of storing any liquor in the freezer would be making it smoother on the way down -- it eases any burn on the throat. <S> This can apply to just about any liquor, though some types of liquor have noticeable differences in taste when served warm vs cold. <S> A couple that come to mind are: Cognac (specifically Salagnac) Deep Eddy Lemonade Fireball <S> During the Hennessy shortage of 2017 , many customers at our store had to look for alternatives. <S> Those who didn't go for Remy Martin went for Salagnac. <S> When cold, Salagnac has a very similar taste to Hennessy. <S> When warm however, this isn't as much the case. <S> Both Deep Eddy Lemonade and Fireball have stronger, sweeter flavors at room temperature. <S> When cold, the sweetness isn't as much of a smack in the face, and with fireball the flames seem to more along the lines of a smolder. <S> You do not put bourbon or scotch in the freezer. <S> Both are intended to be straight or on the rocks. <S> It doesn't make the liquor go bad in any way, but is seen as heresy and you may be shunned by friends or family. <S> There is a noticeable difference in the taste notes of smoke and oak, so it's best to leave these ones out. <S> When it comes to the bar, it just makes more sense to have the alcohol out on display. <S> It shows the customers what they can have, multiple bartenders don't have to fight for control of the freezer, and a large portion of their sales are from mixed drinks which are served with ice anyway. <A> Does it make sense to store hard liquor in the freezer? <S> The short answer is: It depends on the liquor and the individual. <S> Here’s the thing, sticking any spirit in the freezer has its benefits. <S> As the temperature drops, the viscosity (thickness) of a liquid increases. <S> That means after vodka hangs out in the freezer for awhile it has a better texture. <S> According to Claire Smith of Belvedere, “[vodka] becomes more viscous, richer. <S> It coats the mouth.” <S> The same can be said for any spirit (or liquid, really). <S> However, with that viscosity comes a tradeoff: the muting of flavors and aromas. <S> As a spirit gets warmer, it releases more volatiles, compounds that easily vaporize. <S> However. <S> when a spirit is too cold, the aromas and tastes might seem downright non-existent. <S> Now for vodka , this isn’t a huge deal, because in general vodka has less flavor and odor than whiskey. <S> We’ll just say it: vodka is less complex than whiskey. <S> It has less impurities. <S> That doesn’t mean vodka is bad. <S> Hey, it reportedly gives you less of a hangover than whiskey. <S> However, to the average person, if you lose some vodka flavor, well, you’re not losing much. <S> However, much of enjoying a dram of whiskey is taking in the nose (the same goes for wine, which is why we also don’t recommend freezing it). <S> Says Kevin Liu, Chief Cocktail Maker at The Tin Pan, “There are comparatively fewer volatiles in vodka, while the whole point of aging whiskey is to create desirable volatiles.” <S> He adds, “[The whiskey doesn’t lose any volatiles, [they’re] just harder to detect when you have cold whiskey. <S> Putting [whiskey] in the freezer and then taking it out will have no effect at all.” <S> In general, spirits that have hung out in a barrel longer will have more depth than vodka, so it’s best to keep them out of the freezer. <S> - <S> Why Do We Put Vodka In The Freezer, But Not Whiskey? <A> I don't generally like my spirits that cold. <S> One exception is drinks where the flavor of the liquor is largely overwhelmed by the mixers being added to it. <S> If, for example, you are making a batch of cold bloody marys, using ice-code vodka means you don't have to dilute the drink as much with ice cubes.
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We know that if a spirit is too hot, the smell of pure alcohol can be overwhelming (see: why we put ice in our whiskey).
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Can modern distilling techniques produce quality Scotch in significantly less time? My brother-in-law is opening a distillery in Canada, which has got us discussing whisky on the regular. And by the sounds of it it looks like there are certain techniques that can be used these days that 'age' whiskies faster than has classically been done. So what this has got me wondering is whether the 12 or 18 year old labels of some Scotches are more of a placebo, and a product of popular opinion on how Scotch should be distilled? In other words, the history of Scotch has created a situation where the consumer demands a specific age, when in reality it's not really necessary. And so Scottish distillers use this aging method more for image than necessity. <Q> As alluded to by Eric Shain, this is more a matter of the mathematics of aging than anything about the distilling process. <S> The key trick going on here is that years of aging have been standardized with respect to interactions with the barrel they are aging in. <S> As shown here , conversions are done based on the internal surface area to volume ratio of the containers used to age the whiskey. <S> A greater surface-area-to-volume ratio means more rapid interaction between the whiskey and the barrel and therefore faster acquisition of the flavors desired from aging (though the different parameters will almost certainly yield at least subtly different results). <S> It is important to note, however, that this is a trade-off. <S> Yes, you can age whiskey faster using smaller/higher-ratio barrels <S> but you'd need many more to make the same amount of whiskey. <S> So for a smaller producer who wants to match their demand as best they can, using small barrels can be a good way to sell longer aged whiskey more quickly and in more manageable quantities. <S> On the other hand, for a larger producer who expects to have a large demand down the road, full-size barrels are likely a better option. <S> So ultimately, this is more a matter of the fact that "years" of aging has an implicit "in standard size barrels" as a part of it, we just don't generally think of it that way. <A> Having distilled my own whisky in a small American Oak barrel, previously sherry-filled, with a little charring, I can give some direct experience: From blind taste tests with representatives from 3 major distilling groups in Scotland, at 3 years, my whisky had the look and feel, and taste, of an 8-10 year old whisky. <S> The progression from raw spirit was very rapid after year 1, taking on colour very quickly. <S> And from the year 2 check (obviously a very young whisky, although pleasant) to 3 years it fully developed. <S> To me as a hobbyist, the cost was cheap (cask and duty were the most expensive elements) but for a distillery the profit margins would not be high. <S> The Angel's Share loss is high - I wouldn't want to age mine for 12 years, for example. <S> Interestingly, Scottish distillers have as an industry moved well away from age specifiers as they can make much higher profit on branded flavours. <S> There are still prestige or premium age whiskies, but that accounts for a much smaller volume. <S> They aren't, aside from some very small distillers, using small barrels. <S> Remember, if they wanted to capitalise on age, this still wouldn't help them as they'd have to report the age correctly. <A> I buy a lot of single malts, and I have to say that some of those without age statements on the label are very good, e,g, Tullibardine Sovereign or Talisker Storm. <S> I am not saying they are as good as the likes of Clynelish 14 or Aberlour 12 <S> but they are very good. <S> There is a lot of snobbery about single malts, but personally I prefer Bowmore Legend which has no age statement to Bowmore 12.So in my view, as someone who spends a lot of money on single malts <S> , I think new techniques are making very good whiskies.
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While time is certainly important when it comes to aging whiskey, much more important is contact with the barrel.
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Contradicting sayings about the order of drinking alcoholic beverages Growing up in Europe we had a saying that said: "Bier auf Wein, das laß sein - Wein auf Bier, das rat' ich dir" Translation: Beer after wine, leave it be - wine after beer, that I recommend. In the US, a similar saying goes like this: "Beer before liquor, never been sicker; liquor before beer, you’re in the clear." Those two sayings have always perplexed me, as they seem to be contradictory. Visualizing the order of drinks it would look something like this: As is apparent, one recommends to drink by increasing alcohol content, the other recommends against it. Intuitively I assume that these sayings recommend best practices to prevent becoming sick (Reality Check: I understand the order of drinks is mostly irrelevant - it's the total amount of alcohol and the speed of consumption that drives whether someone gets sick.) So my question: Are there any other reasons for why one would recommend consuming alcoholic drinks in a certain order? <Q> According to this link , different types of alcohol have differing amounts and different types of congeners (which are one of the primary toxins contributing to a hangover) in them, leading to varying degrees of hangovers. <S> Combining these varying toxins in different ways can lead to different results. <S> Red wine apparently has the highest amount of congeners in it, while clearer liquids tend to have have fewer. <S> Another thing noted by this article is that carbonated alcoholic beverages (e.g., beer) cause the body to absorb alcohol more quickly; therefore, if you were to consume beer before liquor, your body would have even less time to deal with the alcohol absorption than the other way around. <S> Other than your reasoning as to the amount of alcohol content drinks contain, this is the only thing I can think of! <A> It's all nonsense. <S> To wit, if you have a beer and then a single shot of liquor, most adults are fine - and there will be no difference if you reverse that. <S> The rules came from people who would have 4 beers, then switch to whiskey, then tequila and wake up with a hangover and decide it was the switching that did it when what really happened was that they had 6-8 drinks. <A> There was a news item about this on the BBC website which contradicts this piece of verse: <S> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-47143368 <S> So it seems to be nonsense. <S> Too bad.
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You get hangovers when you "mix" because if you're "mixing" you are probably drinking more than you realize.
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Why are wine bottle volumes in centiliters not in liters or milliliters? Almost every beverage bottle I have come across has it's contents' volume specified in either liters or milliliters. That is except for wine bottles which are more often than not designated in centiliters. For example: Milliliters or liters are far more popular than centiliters in the countries using SI units. Why use centiliters then, especially for something as simple as 1 liter in the example? Has it some historic background? <Q> Why are wine bottle volumes in centiliters not in liters or milliliters? <S> Part of the answer is in the marketing system used in a particular country or region and part of it would be about the size of bottle being purchased. <S> In Canada and the USA, in a standard bottle of wine, there are 750 millilitres (ml), 75 centilitres (cl) or 0.75 litres (l). <S> Wine bottles aren't quite litre-size, but the average wine bottle will contain 750ml of wine. <S> I see only 750ml bottles in the area where I live. <S> I am fine with that. <S> And one marketed with a 75cl label seems less traditional in this neck of the world and may not sell as good as one sold with 750ml marked on the label. <S> It is sold in a more positive light so to speak. <S> I am sure there are other reasons, but take a look at Difford's Guide to mandatory bottle sizes around the world. <S> It is an eye opener to say the least. <S> However there is more to the Subject: <S> When glass bottles become popular though, it is surprising to see that both continental Europe and Great Britain had glass containers of a similar size. <S> The British had an official glass-container size of a fifth of their Imperial (UK) Gallon at around 900ml, while other Europeans' bottles gravitated around 700ml to 800ml. <S> The US officially adopted the 750ml bottle as a standard in 1979, as a metric equivalent to the fifth of a US Gallon (757ml). <S> - Standard Bottle Alcohol measurement in bottles has undergone several revisions in the last few decades as Difford's Guide point out for the USA mandatory spirits bottle sizes (January 1, 1980) and the European Union mandatory spirits bottle sizes (January 1, 1990). <A> They are not. <S> I looked through my collection of wine labels (about 50 from around the globe) - many of them are 0,75l <S> , many are 75cl and some are 750ml. <S> I couldn't determine any dependence of volume unit on country or region or type of the wine. <A> Copied from: Why is 75cl the standard wine bottle size? <S> The volume of 75cl was standardized in the 19th century. <S> At that time, the biggest clients for the French wines were the British. <S> The close neighbors do not use the metric system and used to order wine in “imperial gallon”. <S> One gallon is about 4.546 liters. <S> Barrels were used to transport wine at that time. <S> One barrel is 50 gallons, about 225 liters. <S> A real nightmare for conversion! <S> So to ease the calculation, the wine makers from Bordeaux decided that 1 barrel would be 300 bottles of wine instead of 225. <S> Do the math <S> and you’ll find that it makes a bottle at 75cl! <S> One gallon is 6 bottles, and since then, that’s the reason why we still order wine in packs of 6 or 12 bottles.
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It is all marketing. A bottle of wine marketed as 0.75 liters seems less appealing than wine sold in a bottle marketed as 750ml.
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What is "Five Fruits" in this 1920s cocktail recipe? From Shake 'Em Up! A Handbook of Polite Drinking (1930), page 46: GIN PUNCH NUMBER ONE 2 quarts of grapefruit juice 2 quarts of gin and one quarter cup of Five Fruits or Grenadine Keep the punch in the ice box for two hours before serving time,so that it will be thoroughly chilled.Pour over chopped ice in the bowl and serve at once. What exactly is "Five Fruits"? From context I infer that it's a sweet juice blend, maybe something like modern-day Hawaiian Punch ; but I haven't been able to Google up anything about the name because everyone on the Internet wants to tell me about 1980s-era beverage Five Alive . <Q> Old advertisements show that it was made starting in 1900 in Portland, Maine. <S> It consisted of a syrup made of pineapple, orange, lemon, raspberry, and strawberry juices with sugar , red food coloring, and sodium benzoate as a preservative. <S> Unfortunately, I can't find anywhere what the ratios are, but I'd start by doing equal parts of juice in a 1:1 ratio with sugar for the syrup since it was compared to grenadine as being an analogous substitute. <S> The Hay’s Fruit Juice Company was founded in the year 1900 and produced Hay’s Five Fruit, a fruit juice syrup used to make and flavor beverages and desserts. <S> This album was created after September 1923, following the completion of additional construction to a recently purchased new factory at 55-71 York Street, in Portland, Maine. <S> - Hay's Fruit Juice Company album <A> Although I am not sure what "Five Fruits" are <S> I think I know what they are talking about. <S> Having seen enough crappy fruit punch in my day, I am guess that they are talking about Fruit Cocktail from Del Monte <S> https://www.delmonte.com/products/fruits/peaches/fruit-cocktail <S> It could be just the liquid or the fruit with the liquid. <S> It has five fruits, Peaches, Pears, Grapes, Pineapple, Cherries. <A> What exactly is "Five Fruits" ? <S> "From context I infer that it's a sweet juice blend, maybe something like modern-day Hawaiian Punch; but I haven't been able to Google up anything about the name because everyone on the Internet wants to tell me about 1980s-era beverage Five Alive." <S> Due to the lack of historical data, it may be impossible to find out what exactly is "Five Fruits" . <S> The original Citrus version: orange, lemon, grapefruit, tangerine, lime - Five Alive (Wikipedia) <S> Here’s a modern image of the drink The “Five” represents the five fruit flavors in the drink. <S> There has been a total of seven varieties, but the original was a blend of orange, lemon, grapefruit, tangerine, and lime. <S> I have no idea what this combination tastes like; I’ve never had Five Alive. <S> The memory I have of this product is entirely visual, etched into my psyche from a passing glance in a grocery store some 22 years ago. <S> While relatively popular in the U.K. today, Five Alive’s accessibility in the United States is limited. <S> How it fell into reticence is anyone’s guess. <S> - Juicy Details (Five Alive) <S> Five Alive Varieties <S> You can always use the modern Five Alive drink or Grenadine if you want. <S> The one quarter cup in the recipe could be for either a syrup or a juice. <S> A syrup would definitely make it more sweeter.
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My own personal suspicion is that "Five Fruits" may be somrthing like the original Five Alive drink.
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Is the country of origin for a beer always the same as the brewers country of origin? I am creating a craft beer application which will contains a lot of information about beers. Now when modeling the data I am contemplating whether a beer itself should have a country, city and other address information, or whether this data should come from the brewery which owns the beer. Can anyone come up with a valid reason why for example the country of origin from a beer would differ from that of the owning brewery's country of origin? I ask this because a lot of time when you look at open source beer databases and projects you will see a country of origin when looking at a single beer but they are probably fetching it from the brewery that owns the beer. <Q> It is not that common, but brewers may open subsidiaries. <S> In 2016, Stone Brewing Co. from US opened a new plant in Germany (I suspect they wanted to expand in the European market). <S> Where would your application locate those beers? <S> (Plant was recently sold to Scottish Brewdog ). <S> I suggest you locate beers where they are brewed. <A> Exploring and Expanding the business is one the most important objective for every business especially for Food and Beverages Industries. <S> Let's take an example of well <S> know brewery company i.e Heineken. <S> On February 15, 1864, the Heineken is establishing and manufactured in Amsterdam. <S> Later on, It was started the selling in other regions of Netherlands such as Zoeterwoude, Rotterdam, Etten-Leur and so on. <S> After the consuming and popularity of Heineken beer. <S> It is also brewed in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Serbia, Australia, and Saint Lucia for those respective markets. <A> If you look at the large multinational breweries like Budweiser or Heineken, they always have to list the country the beer was brewed, but not the country that the business originated in. <S> Heineken is brewed in the UK and Ireland and Netherlands. <S> If you are in the UK it should state on the bottle that it was brewed in the UK, unless they imported the bottles so it might be hard to track down. <S> But all products, whether they be cars or soap or toys or computers must have a country they were manufactured in. <S> Read this about Heineken.
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It's not common that the country of origin fora beer always the same for brewers country of origin.
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Unique and valuable gift for drinker? I want to give a close friend a unique and memorable liquor-related (his stipulation) gift. He's particularly fond of whiskey and beer but drinks most anything. What are some ideas, not necessarily limited to actual liquor? In the past I've given him special whiskey glasses, a $100 bottle of whiskey, a home brew kit, and a bottle of chartreuse. He's got a pewter stein he bought himself. Think big, between $100 and $200. <Q> While: this might not be the type of drink they like <S> this was a numbered birthday present <S> this website is in the UK <S> Nonetheless, it might spark off some ideas: https://www.thewhiskyexchange.com/p/18434/grahams-40-year-old-tawny-port <S> It was his 40th birthday, so a 40 year old port with a custom engraved bottle. <S> He's a Tolkein fan, so the inscription read: " <S> Such an excellent and admirable hobbit" <A> A wine cooler. <S> It would be memorable if he doesn’t plan on getting one himself. <S> Membership to the Scotch Malt Whisky Society . <S> Maybe you’d even be able to find a particular bottle (or two - given your price range) <S> whose description memorializes some aspect/episode in your friendship. <A> Unique and valuable gift for drinker? <S> The following suggestion I have already done as a gift. <S> It is awesome. <S> It may not be the price that makes it valuable or unique. <S> But a Crown Royal with a personalized label would definitely be an unique item to say the lest. <S> And yes do not forget the custom bag(s). <S> For example: Crown Royal Northern Harvest label goes for only $3.00 <S> CROWN ROYAL RESERVE BAG goes for an additional $9.95 <S> Then of coarse you must buy your appropriate bottle of Crown Royal to go along with your label and/or customized bag.
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[VIP] tickets to a high-end wine/whisky tasting event.
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Where to buy Absinthe I have heard a lot about this legendary beverage and I know it was forbidden in the market for a while because of some rumors, anyway, I want to give it a try but I have never seen it in any store.It is still available on the market? <Q> Here in British Columbia, I have never seen a liquor outlet without absinthe for sale. <S> They are usually imported from various countries such as the Czech Republic and France. <S> Canada also produces some of its’ own absinthe as is seen here . <S> Liquor laws in Canada differ in the provinces, with no blanket national regulations. <S> As of this writing, there is no law that bans or outlaws absinthe in Canada, but like in the United States, there are laws governing the amount of the psychoactive chemical thujone, which is present in absinthe. <S> British Columbia has no regulation for thujone content, essentially legalizing absinthe in any form there. <S> The provinces of Ontario, Alberta, and Nova Scotia allow the sale of absinthe with a thujone content of about 10 milligrams per kilogram. <S> The remaining Canadian provinces do not allow the sale of absinthe containing thujone. <S> As the laws governing thujone content in Canada vary by province, the laws are subject to change. <S> - Absinthe Laws <A> I buy from here: https://www.absinthes.com/ Plenty of choice and they ship worldwide. <A> Just wait until you are in Canada... <S> E.g. <S> https://okanaganspirits.com/products/absinthe/taboo-genuine-absinthe/ https://nationalpost.com/appetizer/happy-hours-guide-to-absinthe-the-louche-bag-brands-available-in-canada
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In Canada you are able to purchase absinthe in most liquor stores including government run liquor stores.
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How to open a beer without a bottle opener? How does one go about opening a bottle of beer when (gasp) there are no bottle openers present? Twist off is not an option. And, anything involving using one's teeth should be omitted (safety first!) <Q> Almost anything can be used to open a bottle of beer. <S> What we used as university students: spoon (fork, knife), key, table, park bank, fence, another bottle of beer. <S> If you are outside you can use any hard surface. <S> Place the bottle as in picture and push on it or hit slightly. <S> Keep in mind that wood can be damaged by a bottle cap. <A> The most common method that I have seen and used is "ye ol' lighter trick." <S> With which, one uses the butt of an igniting lighter as a lever and one's own finger as the fulcrum. <S> Depicted here: <S> https://youtu.be/fvlrRjNVaqg <S> Another nifty trick that I have seen and tried (though my technique could use a bit of improvement) is using a ring on your finger... <S> Albeit, the ring should be strong (steel or the like) because the rigid edges of the bottle caps will really bite into and damage precious metals, like softer golds and .925 silver... <S> Depicted here: https://youtu.be/X-HSgXflNec <A> Take a can of chewing tobacco and blast off.
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My preferred way (when there's no bottle opener) is to use a spoon (I hold the spoon differently but this way is also worth consideration): Using another (closed) bottle: Technique is important with this one because one can really cut/scratch up one's knuckles if this is done improperly.
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How to open a bottle of wine without a corkscrew? How can one safely go about opening a bottle of wine when there is no corkscrew present? (Obviously, we are talking corked bottles and not twist-off...) <Q> -**1. <S> Wrap a small towel around top of bottle and screw. <S> Pry slowly and cautiously the screw out with claw hammer, just like pulling a nail. <S> -**2. <S> ** Push the cork in with the handle of a wooden spoon, or any blunt object similar in size. <S> -**3. <S> * <S> * Pump it out. <S> Start with a bike pump and place the pump needle between the cork and the rim of the wine bottle. <S> Pump it three or four times, but be careful because if you pump too much the bottle could explode. <S> After a couple of pumps it cork will jump out or you can pull it out.-**4. <S> * <S> * Twist it out with keys or a serrated knife. <S> -**5. <S> ** Wrap the bottle with a towel and use the wall to smack it out. <S> -**6. <S> * <S> * Slap it out with a shoe, with wine bottle facing horizontal or between your legs facing down to start. <S> -**7. <S> * <S> * Take a hanger and form it in the shape of a hook with a pair of pliers. <S> Place the new hook on the edge of the cork with the u shape facing up. <S> Wiggle the hook back and forth until it’s about 2 inches down. <S> Rotate the hook so it grabs the bottom of the cork and then begin pulling once it catches the hook.-**8. <S> ** Make a small cut on either side of the cork and find a pair of clean, curved nail scissors or a pair of pliers. <S> Put the nail scissors or pliers into the place the cork was cut and lift.-**9. <S> * <S> * Insert a key, preferably one you have extra copies of, at a 45 degree angle into the cork until most of it is inserted into the cork. <S> Then begin twisting the cork up as pushing up with the key until you get the cork out. <S> Be careful because a weak key has a possibility of breaking.-**10. <S> * <S> * Insert a screw hook into the cork and once sufficiently screwed in, <S> pull. <S> Next time you won’t have to spend so much time searching for a wine opener.-**11. <S> ** Use a string. <S> Tie a figure eight knot and slip it past the cork by wedging it down with a screwdriver or scissors. <S> Once the knot is below the cork, tilt the bottle and then pull the string. <A> (Sometimes this cannot be done safely, however, considering that pushing the cork down into the bottle MAY create more pressure within the bottle and cause it to burst - though I have never seen that happen.) <S> There is another cool trick, that I have seen though I have not needed to try it personally, where one can use one's own shoe and a hard vertical surface (usually a wall.) <S> Depicted here <S> (You don't need to speak French to understand this...): https://youtu.be/pfWu76kyFmw <A> DO NOT risk the alcohol! <S> Push cork slowly into bottle. <S> Use a nail or something metal not a stick. <S> A stick risks the alcohol!
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** Use a Screw (the longer the better), a screwdriver, and a hammer. A technique that is rarely thought of is to simply push the cork slowly down into the bottle (like with the end of a fork or with a stick,) instead of attempting to pull the cork out of the bottle.
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Can a beer be stored for 13 years? I recently bought a bottle of beer (imperial stout) which is "best before" 2033. It's more than 13 year from now. I know that strong beers have a high longevity and I even have some Belgians expiring in 3-4 years. But 13? Is it possible that a beer can be stored for 13 years without loosing its quality or is it rather a typo (and it's not 33 but probably 22 or 23)? <Q> I recently acquired a book called "Vintage Beers" by Patrick Dawson. <S> The subject of the book is about aging beers and what characteristics of beers lend themselves to cellaring. <S> He lists 14 rules for aging beers. <S> He clearly states that most beers are not good for aging and that they are best consumed fresh but if a beer meets certain criteria than it can, and will, benefit from aging. <S> I will not take the time to paraphrase the whole book but i will include a few quotes. <S> You cellar and drink 10-year old beers? <S> Are you crazy? <S> Aging beer allows time for flavors not immediately present to develop and meld. <S> Rule #3, Darker malts create sherry and port flavors with age. <S> Beers should be cellared bellow their fermentation temperature. <S> The bottom line is if you love a particular beer and it falls withing the guidelines set forth in his book <S> then you would be well advised to age it properly and enjoy it at a quality and taste level not available unless it is aged in a cellar. <A> I was trying to find a study, which would prove if it is true or not, but I was not lucky. <S> At least I found a few resources, that say, that especially imperial stouts can last even 10 years. <S> 1 , 2 In one article, there is even written about imperial stouts, that Bolder flavors and mouthfeel tend to smooth out after several years. <S> 3 <S> In that case, I do not think, this would be a typo. <S> Still, there certainly can be some change in quality. <A> I'm not an expert on very old beers <S> but it doesn't sound too unreasonable. <S> Heavy beers with lots of hops and alcohol would usually stay good for longer than lighter beers. <S> The way the bottles are stored may become a factor if you are going to store them for longer periods of time. <S> The way the bottles were stored might affect their value if you were to sell them later on. <S> Usually beers intended for long storage would have cork and muselet, rather than a metallic cap. <S> You can mitigate the effects of the metallic caps by storing the bottles in an upright position so the beer makes as little contact with the cap as possible. <S> Storing the bottles in pitch black would probably be a good idea if you wanted them to last for that long. <S> Not sure what would be a good temperature.
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High quality beers would typically be in dark bottles to protect them from light.
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Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim? I keep losing pressure in my tires, and among other things, I'm looking at the valves in the tubes. It's an old mountain bike with 26 inch tires. Can I use Presta tubes on rims drilled for Schrader valves ? I know the valve will be smaller than the hole and could cause issues there, but has anyone had success (or failures) with this? <Q> As you mentioned, one of the primary differences between a Presta and Schrader valves are the diameters--with Schrader valves being slightly larger--and therefore the valve holes on bicycle rims are drilled to suit one size or another. <S> Your foremost concern with using a Presta valve in a rim drilled for a Shrader valve shouldn't be 'movement' of the valve stem, as geoffc suggested, but rather a 'hernia' of the tube through the excess space at high pressure, leading to a blowout. <S> Most mountain bike tires sit at a low pressure, therefore you will probably get away with it, however, there is a very inexpensive adapter, sometimes called a 'valve grommet', which is made out of rubber or metal and serves to make the valve hole small enough for a Presta valve to fit snugly. <S> It will also not come loose under high pressure, unlike geoffc's 'old tire' solution. <A> Yes you can. <A> I do this all the time, basically use the presta nut on the inner side to avoid the tube getting "pinched" in the extra space, then if you can find another presta nut, screw that one to the outside where it's supposed to be. <S> Works like a charm. <A> I have not tried it, but consider, once the tube is inflated, the pressure will hold the valve stem pretty much in place. <S> The concern would be if the edge is rough enough that it would cut into the tube that protrudes. <S> and you would probably be fine. <A> As others have mentioned, there's ways to do it. <S> I'd just recommend not doing it. <S> I have more pressure loss problems with my Presta bikes than I do the Schrader equipped ones. <S> Strikes me as a downgrade rather than an upgrade. <S> The only advantage I find to the Presta is the size, which will let you run narrower wheels/tires. <A> It should work fine if the Presta tube is meant to inflate as large as a MTB tire is supposed to be. <S> I'd tape the valve to increase it's size. <A> I have done it and it worked fine. <S> Another alternative is to drill the correct size hole in the opposite side of the wheel - thus you can run presta or schrader in the same rim. <S> I inherited the wheels set up this way. <S> The person explained his reasoning that he preferred to just pump up the tire after a flat rather than changing tubes or patching. <S> My questions about puncturing the newly inflated tires immediately after got me a dim look since it sounded like he didn't bother to do any triage to remove the cause of the flats... <A> Back when I rode a road bike hybrid, I always used presta tubes with schraeder rims. <S> I can't say it worked 100% of the time, but I only had an issue once. <S> And that was across a couple years. <A> On my hybrid I have a schrader valve on the front wheel (the tube hasn't had a flat <S> yet <S> so I've not changed the inner) and a presta valve on the back. <S> The nut that holds the presta valve to the rim seems to prevent any "hernia" from occurring, although occasionally I burst a rear tube when pumping it up too vigorously (it appears to "hernia" through the hole slightly and causes a burst around the base of the valve). <S> I always tighten the nut after inflation. <S> The reason for the presta valve on the back is that the size of inner tube I use only comes in presta valve versions at Halfords which is where, through pure force of habit, I end up buying replacement inner tubes. <A> I've been using a Presta valve in my front schrader rim since I picked up tubes last, because they were out of schraders in my rim size. <S> Haven't had any problems yet, knock on wood. <A> I have used both types of valves in tubes. <S> In my view the presta is strictly for narrow rims. <S> I prefer schrader valves my self for several reasons: the schrader valve tubes will hold high pressure the same as the presta. <S> They are easier to fill <S> they are easier to check the pressure using standard pressure guages found anywhere. <S> I say this based on more than fourty years of repairing and riding bicycles. <S> However, if you prefer presta then I can say that a presta valve in a schrader rim is usually no problem.
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Many presta tubes come with a grommet to allow you to use presta valve tubes in a wheel drilled for schraeder valves. Consider cutting an old tire and wrap the base of the stem with some old tube material
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What is the easiest way to fix a loose chain? Are there adjustments that can be made instead of replacing it? <Q> It depends on what you mean by 'loose'... <S> Chains stretch naturally over many hundreds of miles, and the stretching of the links is actually a good indicator of wear. <S> If, instead, it seems like there is a lot of slack or 'extra' chain <S> , this is an indicator of one of two issues: <S> The chain is simply too long. <S> All new chains (not already on bicycles) come longer than they need to be. <S> If you recently replaced your chain, and didn't remove the extra links, this would cause the chain to be loose. <S> The dérailleur is not creating chain tension. <S> It's hard to determine without further details, but if this is the case, the dérailleur may need to be replaced. <A> There is a neck to this, as you don’t want chain too tight and you need the wheel to be aligned when turning. <A> I believe you can just remove a link if it's that loose. <S> But beware that more stress could cause it to break. <A> You can loosen the back wheel's axle then pull it back <S> so the chain is tight. <S> After you do this you can tighten it in place. <S> If the back axle nut is rusted and stuck, you must buy a new one. <A> If it's a single-speed or fixed-gear bike: Loosen the back wheel pull the tire back into the dropouts,tighten wheel - whaala.. tightened your chain. <S> This is a temporary fix, you will eventually need to replace your loose chain or your entire drivechain due to wear.
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If the bike has hub gears , then you can undo the wheel nets and firmly push the wheel back into the axle slots while doing up the nets. If you find that the chain seems to sag at both the top and the bottom, this may mean that your dérailleur has lost some of it's 'springiness' and is not effectively creating chain tension.
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How do I measure the size of my bicycle frame? From what point to where do I start measuring? I suspect the bike I'm trying to measure is a 56cm because I usually ride a 54 and this is slightly too big, but I want to be sure. <Q> Centerline of the bottom bracket hole to the top of the seat tube (where the seat post goes in). <A> There are a few more tricks that you need to be aware of. <S> The most important is that a lot of modern bike frames, particularly mountain bikes, have a sloping top tube. <S> If you use the method described by @kkeilman you're size measurement will end up being too small. <S> The trick in this instance is to get an assistant to hold a horizontal reference such as a yardstick, metre rule or broomstick aligned with a spirit level (or by eye) at the level of the top tube/head tube junction. <A> My understanding is that most US mountain/road bikes are measured from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the top of the seat tube, European road bikes are center of the bottom bracket shell to the center of the intersection of the top tube and seat tube, and BMX bikes are from the center of the top tube intersections between the seat and head tube. <S> Summary: <S> US Road/MTB: Center to Top (C-T) <S> Euro Road: Center to Center (C-C) <S> BMX: <S> Top Tube (TT) <S> This page backs that understanding up, with pictures.
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You can then measure the size from the centre of the bottom bracket to this reference line, keeping the measuring tape in line with the seat tube.
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How do I reduce slack in the chain of a single-speed bicycle? I have a single speed bicycle that has some slack in the chain and threatens to come off. How can I reduce this slack? <Q> If you have horizontal dropouts (the wheel axle slides into the frame from the back of the bike) <S> the dropouts have long slots which will allow you to pull the rear wheel back and take slack from the chain. <S> Be careful to ensure when you torque the wheel nuts down the wheel <S> doesn't slip from being aligned straight, or the chain is running at a slight angle. <S> If the chain is so stretched to the point where it's falling off, you really should consider replacing the chain. <S> You can get away with removing a link to remove the slack but a worn chain will be prone to sticky links and popping off unannounced. <A> Typically the adjustment would be made at the rear dropouts. <S> Loosen the bolt back there, hold some tension (not a lot) on the rear wheel while you tighten it back. <A> If you don't have a tool to measure chain stretch then a normal ruler can work. <S> The pins on links should line up at the beginning and 12" mark. <S> I change my chain 2 or three times a year based on the distances I'm riding. <S> Chaning chains regularly means that your gearing doesn't quite wear enough to fit a single chain <S> and it's less likely that you'll have to purchase some new drivetrain components when you get a new chain. <S> Many/most single speeds also have the rear dropouts set up so you can slide the wheel back a bit. <S> At least last time I looked at them. <A> The best method I've found for adjusting tension without using a Surly Tuggnut or similar tensioner is to walk the axle back and forth. <S> Generally, just holding the wheel at tension is not enough to get the tension right without undue frustration. <S> NOTE: while this method works for singles and fixies, it doesn't work with quick releases. <S> (It will also work with eccentric hubs where dropout tensioners don't help.) <S> Then, loosen the right axle nut and pull the wheel (using the leverage from the rim) to tension the chain and tighten that nut. <S> You want to get the chain a bit too tight and then gently tap the nut to back off the tension until it is just right. <S> Repeat the process on the left axle nut to get the wheel aligned, keeping one or the other axle <S> nuts tight. <S> Proper tension should allow the bicycle to pedal smoothly without binding and with as little chain droop as possible (the big risk of a droopy chain is that it will derail and that would not be healthy.) <S> By using the wheel as leverage, you don't need to rely on physically holding the wheel perfectly straight and taught. <S> After you've tensioned and aligned the wheel (the rim should be centered between the stays) be sure the axle nuts are tightened to spec to keep the wheel from slipping forward. <S> (Additionally, if as you're adjusting your chain tension you find that the tension wobbles - i.e. it is tighter at some spots in the pedal rotation - then you need to center your chain ring!)
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The idea is that you install the wheel in the dropouts with the chain routed correctly and then tighten the axle nuts a bit beyond finger-tight.
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Slow leak on front cruiser tire I ride my cruiser to the supermarket and back, using either a trailer or a basket over the front wheel for carrying groceries. The bike has developed a persistent slow leak on the front wheel, and I've replaced the tube without it helping. I can't see anything puncturing the tire, and the spokes aren't poking through the rim tape that I can see. These are 26" wheels with low pressure (around 40 - 50 psi). What else can I look for that might be causing this? <Q> Mark your tire where the tube's valve stem is located, remove the tube, inflate it and put it in a bucket of water. <S> Look for bubbles. <S> This is where your leak is. <S> Now inspect the tire and rim at the correlating point for something that may be causing the leak. <S> Good Luck. <A> Another trick for finding leaks that I don't see mentioned here is soapy water. <S> Pull the tube out, and make a preparation of very soapy water. <S> I particularly like dish detergent (e.g. dawn) because it is so concentrated, but any soap should work. <S> When you brush soapy water over the tube, the air escaping from any leaks will form soap bubbles. <S> If you don't have a great place to submerge it, this trick can be a lifesaver. <S> When you're looking for a slow leak, you want to find the cause of the leak. <S> To do this, it's important to mark the tire, the wheel, and the tube in some way so you can figure out exactly where the hole came from. <S> You can use the valve stem on the tube and the rim to figure out where they fit together, but you should mark the tire to indicate where the tire sits in relation to the valve stem. <S> If you do this, and keep them oriented the same (i.e. don't flip them over as you work on them), you should be able to find the leak and to find the place in the rim and the tire that's near the leak. <S> Once you find the spot, inspect the rim and the tire. <S> Any problems with the rim should be fairly obvious if you run your finger over them; check it and move on to the tire if you don't find anything. <S> When you are inspecting the tire, start by running your finger over the offending surface. <S> If you feel something sharp, be sure to dig it out. <S> If that doesn't work (and with a really slow leak, it often won't), you'll need to get more aggressive. <S> Turn the tire inside out, and fold it over in that area. <S> The fold should stretch the inner rubber wall, and any holes caused by punctures will be more obvious. <S> Find the hole, and then dig around in the hole with a small screwdriver or something. <S> I've often found little shards of glass or bits of wire embedded in the tire itself. <S> You can't feel it, you can't see it, but it can still puncture your tube when you go over a bump just wrong. <A> Before buying a new tube, check and see what your problem might be. <S> Slow leaks can be caused by a bunch of things. <S> First of which is obviously something making a tiny hole. <S> The next could be that your tube is old/degraded and air simply leaks from it. <S> Or you may have some damage around the valve. <S> For some reason that still alludes many cyclists, air just happens to leak out of your tire quicker when you're not riding it. <S> Compare your tire pressure after riding everyday, to having put the bike down for a week or two. <S> There's a significant difference in pressure. <S> Anyhow, on to business. <S> Check if the edges of your rim are sharp, and check to see that your tire isn't pinching your tube. <S> I also recommend checking your tube for any holes. <S> I suggest pumping your tube (outside of the tire) up until it expands beyond its expected size. <S> There is no harm in doing this. <S> The more pressure inside the tube the easier it will be to hear the air escaping. <S> Of course if you don't hear any air escaping it will help to place it in water and look for bubbles, and like someone else said before, move your tube around, bend it in different shapes as some holes are so small, or in such a fashion that they only show under those conditions. <A> It's possible that there is a small shard of glass or metal imbedded in the tire that you're missing. <S> That's the only thing I can think of since you've checked the other obvious potential problem areas. <S> Mark the position of the valve stem to the tire and the remove the tube a check for that slow leak. <S> Hopefully you'll find a small hole that's causing the problem. <S> Then allign the valve stem mark to the tire so you can check the area of the tire where the leak showed up for a shard of glass or metal. <S> If nothing is visible from the outside, carefully feel the tire carcass with a finger on the inside to see if you can feel anything that is sharp poking through the carcass. <S> Remove anything you feel and hopefully you can patch the tube and not have that slow leak any more. <A> Ok, as an addition to all the answers. <S> There is a possibility of the puncture being too tiny. <S> And cannot be found easily, through submerging techniques or any other. <S> On that case, only one last thing remains, inflate the tire at least 150% or double it up, if it is resistive. <S> And then submerge it in the water. <S> You will surely find the puncture. <S> This sort of puncture occurs in old tires or bad quality tire. <S> And this method should only be applied as last option.
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Remove your tire from the rim, and check all along the inside of the tire, as well as the sidewalls of the tire to see if you feel anything sharp, or piercing into the tire, as this could be causing your air leak. It might also help to know how often you ride your bike.
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How do I prevent the rear derailleur from slipping gears? What's the best way to tune the rear derailleur of my bike to stop slipping gears? It seems that every time I re-adjust it, the middle/upper gears are perfectly aligned, but the lower gears never stay put. When I'm climbing up hills, the chain keeps slipping up/down a gear, and never stays put. <Q> If your derailleur is adjusted properly, and you are slipping gears, it's usually a worn chain and rear cog. <A> Ok, a number of the other responses have captured some of the possibilities here. <S> The possible causes and fixes I can think of are: Worn Cassette , which is also usually associated with a worn chain. <S> If this is the issue there are two key indicators that you will see. <S> The first is that the gap between the teeth on the sprockets will look less like a "U" and more like a "V". <S> The second is that the chain will measure more than 12.7mm between each rivet. <S> Sheldon Brown has more information on this here . <S> If this is the case, then the cure is to replace the cassette and the chain, and quite possibly the chain rings as well. <S> Bent Derailleur Hanger . <S> When viewed from behind, the derailleur cage (with the two jockey wheels the chain runs over) should be vertical. <S> If it isn't, you'll need to either bend the derailleur hanger (carefully) to the correct alignment, or replace the derailleur hanger (if it is replaceable). <S> I wouldn't try bending the hanger myself - I'd take it to a bike shop. <S> Friction in the Gear Shift Cables . <S> A bit difficult to tell if this is the issue, but realtively easy to fix. <S> A temporary fix involves putting chain lube on the points where the cable enters and exits the cable outers and changing the gears around a bit. <S> A better solution is to remove the cable from the outers, wash it with degreaser, clean and dry it, then re-fit it to the bike. <S> If the end of the cable is worn, it can be difficult to re-fit it. <S> New cables are pretty cheap, so you may consider replacing the inners and outers. <S> Weak Derailleur Spring . <S> Unless you have a fairly expensive deraileur, you can't replace the derailleur spring. <S> You can stave off the inevitable for a bit by cleaning and lubricating the derailleur, but ultimately this means it is time to get a new derailleur. <A> To add on to Mike's answer, slipping is probably due to your chain being old. <S> As a result of your chain being old, it has probably worn down the teeth on the rear cassete (you should be able to examine it and see grooves and uneven wear on the gears you use the most). <A> The chain may not appear worn - but check to see if it's stretched. <S> Check this comment with a quick way to measure your chain to see if it's stretched.
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Replace both the chain and cassete, then get yourself a chain wear indicator and check it periodically to prevent your chain from destroying your cassete again. Take the bike into your local bike shop, and they can help you get replacements.
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What is a good rear wheel for a heavy load? I'm a heavy man, and I find I'm breaking spokes on my rear wheel fairly often. Is there a particular wheel I can buy or anything I can do to prevent this? Edit: I was having the problem with a hybrid with 700c wheels, but I gave up and sold that bike in preparation for my move to LA. I'll be looking to purchase a new bike to use for commuting once I get out there, but I'm open as to style. I gather we'll have Surly dealers out there, so I'll definitely be checking those out. <Q> I had the same issues riding on pre-built 26" mountain bike wheels. <S> I'm 6'5" and weigh <S> ~400lbs, so I break stuff left and right (including frame welds). <S> I have found two things that broke my wheel-breaking streak. <S> The first thing I found was the Surly Pugsley and the Endomorph (or Larry ) tires that fit on it. <S> The 26"x4" tires are massive , and absorb any blow without threat to the wheels. <S> At the same time, I also went with wheels based around Large Marge rims, which have never needed to be trued (even through the frame break!). <S> The other thing I found was beefy, hand built, wheels. <S> My second bike is a Surly Karate Monkey (a 29er) which I had wheels built for using 36 hole hubs (again a Surly product). <S> This wheel shows a bit more wear and tear (after 5 months of riding), but it hasn't broken anything. <S> Bottom line: <S> If your current equipment can't work for you, go big. <S> It will cost you a lot up front, but save a ton in the long run. <S> ( I swear I don't work for Surly, though my bikes make it sound like I do. ) <A> I am a big guy. <S> Usually 230-270 lbs. <S> (Alas currently at the high end). <S> I feel your pain. <S> Once you go to this level, it is 'heavy' and <S> light weight racers will point and mock you, but it will stop breaking spokes. <S> Until I did this on my two regular road bikes, I was breaking spokes monthly. <S> Drove me nuts. <A> After my last rear wheel bent under my weight, my LBS hooked me up with a 36-hole rhynolite (rinolyte?)-based wheel. <S> It has done pretty well so far. <S> I am 260-270lbs. <S> Your riding style matters. <S> If you slam in to curbs <S> it's a lot harder on the wheel than if you pop over them. <S> Build quality matters. <S> They may also not be evenly tensioned. <S> But they are so <S> much cheaper than custom-built wheels that the shorter lifespan may be acceptable. <S> Tires matter. <S> I use big, fat tires with relatively low pressure. <S> I don't believe they slow be down substantially, but I rarely get flats. <S> If 36-hole wheels fail on you, you can get 40-hole wheels for tandems. <A> Single-butted spokes <S> are what you need, such as Sapim Strong . <S> Used on tandems and heavily-laden expedition touring bikes. <S> That also means hand-built wheels, naturally. <A> Depends if you're riding a mountain bike or a road bike. <S> Ultimatley I'd think that the wheel isn't built right. <S> A good rule of thumb is that if you break 1 spoke replace it. <S> If you break a second one have the wheel rebuilt. <S> A good wheel builder should be able to build a normal 3 cross wheel that can handle anyone able to ride a bike hard.
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My solution has been to get a 32 or 36 hole hub and rim, with the heaviest gauge spokes they make. Machine-built wheels strain the components while building, and that means they're weaker. I also run higher volume (but nowhere near the Endomorph) tires on this bike, with a pair of Schwalbe Big Apples .
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What type of brakes are best for mountain bike racing? Disc brakes are more expensive than v-brakes, but in a heavy rain they will break down. V-Brakes are becoming harder to find, but they're much easier to maintain and don't break down as easily. What kind of brakes are best for mountain bike racing? <Q> Look at any high end bike and you will find hydraulic disc brakes. <S> There will be people who argue the pros/cons of hydraulic vs mechanical disc brakes <S> but it's hard to deny what the entire industry is putting on their most expensive rigs. <S> For ease of stoppage, minimal brake fade and ease of modulation - the hydraulic disc brake wins hands down. <S> You can hammer downhills w/ disc brakes all day long and your hands don't get tired... try that with old school cantis or v-brakes. <S> Plus - disc brakes will maintain stopping power in wet vs a rim brake which will definitely be compromised in wet. <A> There are plenty of advantages to disc brakes while mountain biking. <S> Rim brakes can be set up to work as well, but it has been a long process every time I've tried it. <S> Rim breaks also can cause problems by heating up the rim itself, and as a result the air in your tires. <S> It may seem silly, but you can blow out a tube with enough heat. <S> There is also a problem with "brake fade" as the pads heat up. <S> As for riding in the wet, I have never had a problem with my BB7's stopping my over-sized self in the wet. <S> Even in rain puddles up to the bottom bracket. <S> I have also never had to maintain the brakes during a ride. <A> From my experience racing USAC Collegiate xc and short track, disc brakes are the way to go, and I prefer hydraulic to mechanical, as long as they're the right model. <S> You can find a lot of reviews on the mtbr.com forum about disc brakes to find one that would work for you. <S> The Avid Elixir R SLs I use on my full-suspension mtb have never let me down and are easy to adjust. <S> From general riding experience, disc brakes are much more responsive in dusty and wet situations than v-brakes are. <S> Disc brakes provide another advantage during race situations: If you flat during a race, you just have to flip your bike over, open the quick-release and pull the wheel off. <S> Since disc brakes don't go around the tire like rim brakes do, you don't have to disengage or reengage the brakes when you pull the wheel off or put it back on. <S> Also if you're running rim brakes and you hit a rock during a race that makes your wheel go out of true, your rim will be hitting the brake pads <S> while you ride, which can end your hopes of placing. <S> With disc brakes, your braking power is not affected by the trueness of the wheel. <S> You'll probably want to true the wheel when you get back to your tent, but your race isn't over if you're running discs. <A> My MTB region (Belgium / Holland) has a lot of mud. <S> Disc brakes seem less capable of handling these wet and muddy conditions. <S> They simply cannot handle mud, and start making noise. <S> So most people here use V-brakes or the hydrolic version: <S> Magura <S> I have also seen front wheel: disc brake (does not get as much mud), rear wheel: Magura. <A> For cross country - hydraulic disk brakes with small rotors. <S> For downhill - hydraulic disk brakes with big rotors.
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In my opinion, disc brakes give much better feedback to the lever with almost no fiddling with them.
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Perfectly setting up gears - how? Every time I have my bike serviced, the bike shop sets up the gears on a stand in their workshop. The gears change perfectly on the stand, but when the bike is on the road, the rear derailleur doesn't change smoothly, and some gears are jumped. I've fiddled with this myself, but can't improve over the default setup. Is it possible, or does this mean the Shimano gearsets are worn/the springs worn out on the rear derailleur? <Q> There are three adjustments that you can do on the front derailleur: <S> Clamp Position Low limit stop <S> High limit stop <S> Clamp Position <S> Here you can adjust the height of the derailleur, normally this is recommended as a 2mm clearance between the bottom of the outer cage and the teeth of the large chainring. <S> Picture from bicycletutor.com site <S> You can also adjust the rotational angle of the derailleur. <S> Picture from Parktool site Limit stops <S> The Limit stops are for adjusting the inward and outward travel of the front derailleur. <S> Limit stops are marked "L" for Low and "H" for High. <S> The L-stop will stop the movement of the derailleur toward the smallest chainring. <S> The H-stop will stop the movement of the derailleur toward the largest chainring. <S> There is a good guide on the Parktool site that gives a lot of detail on adjusting the front derailleur. <A> There are a number of reasons that the shifting on your rear derailleur is not working well: <S> The derailleur hanger (the bit of the frame that the derailleur bolts onto) could be bent. <S> To check this look at the angle that the derailleur cage is at. <S> When viewed from behind, it should be vertical, when viewed from above, it should be parallel to the centreline of the bike. <S> Your bike shop should be able to either re-bend the hanger to align it properly or supply a replacement hanger if you frame <S> has a replaceable derailleur hanger. <S> The cassette and chain could be excessively worn. <S> The standard way to check this is to look at the distance between chain links - you can get a tool that does this for you. <S> If you haven't replaced your chain for a while, this can often be a problem. <S> The fix is to replace the chain, and if required the cassette. <S> There may be excessive friction in your gear cables. <S> You try an interim fix of pulling the cables out of the outers, washing them through degreaser and then re-fitting them. <S> You may need to repeat a few times to get the gunk out of the outers. <S> The rear derailleur spring could be worn out and weak. <S> Not much you can do about this short of replacing the derailleur. <S> Only really high end derailleurs are able to have their springs replaced. <A> The difference probably arises because there is more tension being exerted on the chain when you are cycling as compared to the bike being up on a stand. <S> The screws on the dérailleur (as you probably know) are for setting it to stop at the right place (ie not to come off either towards the wheel or off the small gear). <S> Do you have shifters which move the dérailleur a fixed amount (indexed?) <S> or do you just have levers? <S> On mine if there are problems shifting between the gears then I have to fiddle with an adjuster at the shifter, some dérailleurs also have adjusters at the dérailleur itself. <S> If you have a Shimano rear dérailleur (or a front one for that matter) go to the Shimano Technical Documents site and see if your model is listed, check there for a guide to setting up your specific model and troubleshooting it once you have set it up. <A> I'm surprised they do it on a stand. <S> The flex of the frame while in use makes a significant difference in how it needs to be setup! <S> I put my bikes on a trainer when doing the shifting calibration. <S> That way I can jump on the bike and do test runs under load. <S> Sometimes ends up being a bit clunky if you spin it by hand while not riding, but always works perfect out on the road! <A> A friend of mine had a similar problem lately, and it turned out that her cable was damaged in the housing and was slowly lengthening as it degraded. <S> It took her several shops to find the problem, but eventually they did. <S> Pulling the cable out of the sheathing is easy and should eliminate the cable as a possible culprit.
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The first rule is make sure the rear derailleur is adjusted correctly before adjusting the front derailleur. A longer term fix involves replacing the cables.
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Should I clean the grease off the gears? I usually keep my chain well lubricated. However, my gears are usually greasy. Should I be cleaning the gears or are they supposed to be greasy? <Q> I clean my gearing and whole drive train every few months. <S> I ride about 250km a week <S> so it's not a time frame requirement but a use thing. <S> I would suggest that every few thousand km or each year you should take apart your whole drive train and get it entirely clean. <S> Replace your chain but keep the old one just in case the new one skips. <S> I replace my chain with each cleaning so that the gearing doesn't wear to fit the chain and thus cause skipping. <S> Well worth the price of a few extra chains vs the cost of a replacement cassette. <S> My goal for each cleaning is that all parts should be back to their original colour. <S> The older they are the less you can acutally do that as they scratch up <S> but I'm sure you get the idea. <A> Degreasing the drivetrain is a good idea. <S> You don't have to disassemble it and soak the cassette to get the grease off. <S> Use foamy, citrus, earth-friendly squirt degreaser and a coarse plastic brush (both can be bought at your LBS). <S> curtismchale has a good point about the gearing being worn by a stretched chain... but doing it with every cleaning is overkill and expensive. <A> They should be lubricated but not dirty. <S> Get the rag right in between two cogs and move it back and forth. <S> You'll notice that the cassette rotates as you floss left and the rag picks up dirt as you floss right.
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It's easy to clean the cogs/cassette/freewheel by taking out the rear wheel, spraying on a small amount of degreaser and flossing between the cogs with a rag. That said, there is some amount of dirt that can't be helped - it's a bike.
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Why should I wear bicycle clothes made of spandex? What's the reason for wearing biking clothes made of Spandex (Lycra)? They sure look pretty strange. <Q> I thought spandex shorts looked weird too, until my wife bought me a pair with the padding. <S> Now, I can't ride in regular shorts at all! <S> There's no binding or rubbing in the wrong areas, and all your jiggly parts are held securely in place. <S> And a big, important point about bike shorts <S> - you wear them without underwear. <S> Jerseys also come in tight and loose fitting material - I personally prefer the loose-fitting jerseys (I'm not exactly skinny enough to wear the tight jerseys). <S> Other than the moisture-wicking they provide, they also come in extremely visible colors, which is nice when you're out riding by yourself, especially if visibility is low. <A> There are a few good reasons for it. <S> More aerodynamic, we humans don't put out much power so every little bit helps Padded shorts. <S> You want these for anything longer than a short ride. <S> Most shorts with pads happen to be spandex. <S> Moisture wicking Read some things a few years ago about muscle fatigue when jiggling (rough road/mountain biking) <S> is greater than if you can compress the muscles a bit <S> so they don't move as much <A> If you don't like the way they look (and frankly, no man looks good in lycra shorts), you can wear a pair of lycra shorts with baggy shorts (or trousers) over the top - that way you still get all the comfort benefits with none of the style penalties. <A> Depends on whether you want respect at the LBS or every other place you go into. <S> I'm cut-offs, T-shirts, and tennies. <S> I like going past the dudes that spent more on their clothes than I spent on my bike. <S> Sure, I look like a construction worker that's lost his driver's license <S> but I don't wear <S> 420/tie-dyed either. <S> Misdirection and a contrarian streak. <S> As soon as someone says 'you gotta...' I'm gone, and it is cheaper. <S> Clothes might make THE man but they don't make a man. <S> Go to a ski resort and look at the people coming off of the ends of the 'bunny runs', they've got all the fancy stuff. <S> "Just do it." <A> Because sweaty, crumpled cotton a) chafes and b) is pretty unhygienic. <S> Lycra ("spandex") doesn't bunch up, shifts sweat more effectively and (if padded) takes a bit of the road buzz away. <S> I'm so used to wearing it the idea of looking strange doesn't even cross my mind. <S> Whatever you wear, make sure you wash it often. <A> The first few years of bike commuting, I was all about cotton shorts and shirts. <S> I thought lycra looked stupid, and was a waste of money. <S> Then I tried some lycra shorts. <S> What a difference. <S> My stuff didn't get chafed or squished on the 15km ride to work. <S> I kept cooler and drier. <S> Totally worth it. <S> I always wear lycra bike shorts now (the padding and hold-stuff-in-place ability are essential for comfort). <A> For those who aren't thrilled at dropping a bunch of money on expensive lycra shorts that look weird and make you uncomfortable, there is an alternative! <S> You can buy liners that do all that same amazing stuff (moistore wicking, bottom-padding, gonad-compressing) at a fraction of the price. <S> For example these: Men's Cycling Liners <S> I'm sure there are other alternatives, from other sources. <S> These will let you keep your baggies and have 90% of the benefits of $100 lycra shorts :)
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The shorts with padding help protect your sensitive groin parts, as well help keep you cooler and drier (preventing nasty sores) by wicking the moisture (sweat) away from your body.
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Why do cyclists shave their legs? Why do cyclists shave their legs? Is it because of wind resistance? <Q> Cyclists shaving their legs is more tradition than anything else--there is a whole industry around creams, soaps, and salves. <S> However, I'll defer to Sheldon Brown 's explanation for a few acceptable reasons why they do it: To prevent infection when crashing. <S> To pull off bandages more painlessly after dressing a wound. <S> To get a massage of the legs without hair pulling. <S> One reason I've often heard is 'To be more streamlined in the wind'--but <S> I don't believe it! <A> It's the best way to show off the hard work you've put into developing all those muscles :) <A> I have found, from painful personal experience, that road rash from a crash heals much more nicely on shaved skin than hairy legs, mostly because bandages and tape become much easier to remove! <A> So you can get razor sharp tan lines. <S> Pesky hair can result in migrating shorts which leads to blurring of the tan line. <S> And really ... if you are going to look foolish, you might as well just jump RIGHT in. <A> Guys figure " <S> if I shave my legs, other cyclists (and even some non-cyclists) will recognize me as a fellow cyclist. <S> " If being a cyclist is an important part of your identity, that'll be important to you. <S> It is kind of cool to be able to pick someone out and strike up a conversation about cycling just based on their weird tan lines and/or shaven legs. <A> Aesthetical reasons trump all else. <S> Hairy limbs peeking out of tight lycra just look nasty. <S> Contemplate attached picture to see what looks better, Astarloa's legs or arms? <A> One reason not yet mentioned is that in summer your legs feel cooler. <S> But I think the No. 1 reason is psychological - <S> it looks good and all the fast guys do it <S> (sorry ladies, the shaving legs things for girls is so not an issue). <A> There are two additional things that haven't been mentioned yet. <S> First, road rash is actually made worse by hairy legs. <S> We all know that when you hit the pavement it acts like sandpaper scraping a layer off your skin. <S> However, if you have hairy legs the hairs get pulled out by the root as well. <S> This makes the road rash deeper where your skin actually comes into contact with the ground as well as making the surface area of the wound larger because of hairs that get pulled out around the actual contact area. <S> And second, while road rash isn't as much of a concern for mountain biking, there's an additional advantage there too. <S> It's easier to wash the crud off after a ride. <S> You can just hose your legs off out of your water bottle and watch the dirt come off in rivers. <A> In addition to the previously mentioned benefits, recent wind tunnel testing performed by Specialized has shown that shaved legs will save about 50 to 82 seconds over a 40km TT...certainly not an inconsequential amount. <S> Turns out the oft-cited study from 1987 that many use to say that leg hair doesn't affect <S> aerodynamics was performed in a miniature wind tunnel using a fake leg with or without hair glued onto it . <S> Hardly comprehensive, but only recently challenged. <A> FYI: <S> embrocation is an ointment used to heat muscles & joints on chilly days. <A> Common, Am I the only one whose thigh hairs gets pulled while cycling. <S> Or when cycling on jeans(I know its horrible thing), the ups and downs of hair is just kills me. <S> Thats the reason I shave. <S> To be pretty, when I am cycling, no way. <S> I am cycling, not modeling for the cycles. <S> (Sorry, guys if I have offended you.) <A> Cyclists shave their legs for three reasons:1. <S> To avoid any insect clings in their feet hair2. <S> Get a better massage3.
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Allegedly, shaved legs make it much easier to apply and remove embrocation, increases it effectiveness, and eliminates the "bugs crawling on skin" feeling when hairs pop back into position. I agree with Dustin's answer as the putative reasons usually cited, but I think at some level, it's a mark of the tribe . I've never seen a noticeable difference in wind resistance whenever I've shaved my legs for cycling, though I was never competitive to the point of measuring time in hundredths of a second. Interestingly, shaving your arms could save about 19 seconds over 40k, while shaving the beard will only save about 1 second. For a cool feel during the ride
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How do I determine the correct position for my bicycle seat? I have been suffering from IT band problems on my outer knee, which I'm pretty sure were caused by raising my seat height too much. I raised the seat on the advice of a friend who said that a higher seat gives more power in each stroke. By trial and error over several months I have found a (lower) seat height that seems to be acceptable, but I still get occasional twinges if I cycle a lot, so I suspect it's still not quite right. Is there a well-understood way to correctly determine the best height for a bicycle seat? Are there factors other than seat height that are important to consider? <Q> For a quick fit, the general goal is to keep the seat high enough that you can get a nearly-full leg extension, without 'locking' the knee. <S> Over a long period of time, if you find that you are having knee, foot or hip pains, try making small adjustments with the saddle, about 0.5-1.0cm at a time, either up, down, forwards or backwards. <S> If the pain gets worse, try the other direction. <S> Give it some time, and eventually you should find a painless position. <S> A tip I recently got from a friend having a similar problem proved interesting: <S> Those of us who are males typically 'dress' right or left. <S> For him, aligning his saddle with the nose turned slightly off-center (away from the direction of 'dressing') alleviated all of his knee discomfort! <A> The best advice I heard on the topic is to sit comfortably on the bike while placing your heel on the pedal. <S> Move the seat up until your leg is fully extended, and then tighten the seat. <S> This way, the leg will be only slightly bent at full extension when the ball of the foot is on the pedal. <S> You definitely don't want the leg to be fully extended while pedaling, or else you can hurt your knees. <S> Here's some other guides on the subject: <S> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm <S> http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/bike+fit.html <A> Depending on how much you ride, you may want to consider having your bike professionally fit at a bike store. <S> My wife received a free fit when we bought her Dolce at Peleton Cycles , but they told me they will fit anyone to their bike for about $70. <S> It's pricey, but if you are riding your bike constantly, it may be worth the money. <S> It took them about an hour to fit my wife's new bike - they measured the angle of her knee throughout the stroke, did knee-foot alignment, adjusted her seat height, repositioned and gave her a new head, did a butt test and got the proper sized seat for her sit bones 1 , and even went as far as adjusting the angle of her brakes so they were easier to reach. <S> Then, after all of that, they send you home to ride your bikes for a few weeks and then have you come back and tell them what's bothering you, and they adjust it some more. <S> 1 <S> This was the #1 thing I did for my bike that made riding so much more comfortable. <A> Adapted from Brooks catalogue: <S> I find the "numerical bike fitting" methods not to work everytime, and they do not consider rider's preference, comfort and interpersonal variability. <S> Also, on some of my bikes, the best position I end up settling down with is against some widespread fitting rules. <S> As for me, a good way of measuring saddle fit is to ride no hands: you could be able to do it "almost" comfortably. <S> If it is more comfortable to ride no hands than the normal position, the saddle is too back and/or too nose up. <S> If it is hard to maintain balance, it could be too nose-down and/or too forward. <S> At last, saddle shape and front geometry (handlebar, fork, etc.) have some effect in saddle adjustment, I think. <A> When you cycle, you leg should be almost straight when the pedal is down, but not completely. <S> It should have a slight bend in the knee. <A> One other thing to consider is when your thighs are parallel to the ground the front of your knee should be breaking over the axis of the pedal so make sure your seat is set back far enough <A> The saddle can be moved forward or backwards too, besides being raised or lowered. <S> Here is a link form Sheldon Brown on the adjustments of a saddle to the rider on the bike. <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
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Adjust your saddle up, but not so much that you have to tilt your hips side to side to fully extend the pedals; Adjust your saddle forward, but not so much that you feel your body thrown forward while pedalling hard; Adjust the nose of your saddle down, but not so much that you slip forward over your hands.
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How to store a bicycle for an extended period of time? What's the best way to store a bicycle for an extended period of time, say 2 months? <Q> Doesn't really matter. <S> Just try to avoid really wet places. <S> I have left bikes in the garage for years. <S> Or for months at a time between rides. <S> (Road bike during the winter, while I ride my MTB to work, and vica versa). <S> I have left them standing on the floor. <S> Hanging from both wheels in the ceiling. <S> I recall a thread on hanging from just the front wheel and consensus <S> was it did not matter. <A> Just make sure you give it a good once-over when you take it out to ride again. <S> Make sure there's no rust and that everything that should be tight is tight and lubed is lubed. <A> Probably obvious, but don't leave it unattended outdoors, make sure it's properly locked and put somewhere where it's really hard to steal it. <A> Clean the bike, air the tires to a normal pressure, and make sure everything's lubricated that should be. <S> Try to store it in an inside location that you are in every day. <S> Nothing like deciding to get your bike out of storage, only to find that it's missing! <S> If it's going to be sitting on the floor, then some type of cover may be appropriate to keep any dust or dirt away from the bike. <S> After a couple of months, all you should need to do is air up the tires and look forward to a ride.
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If you can secure it with the normal bike lock, that would be an added prevention of theft.
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Rear wheel slipping out under load My commuting/cyclocross bike (a Surly Crosscheck) has a problem. If I tighten the quick release skewer to a normal level, sort of firm to close it, then if I step on the pedals hard at some point, the rear wheel basically comes right out of the dropouts. To keep the wheel actually in the frame, I have to cinch the quick release down hard enough that I get a bit concerned about ever opening it again. The springs get mangled. This is a somewhat recent development and appears to be getting worse. Any ideas? <Q> I had a similar problem on my Pugsley, though it was under braking (discs) that I was kicking the wheel around in the dropouts. <S> After talking with the guys at my LBS, I learned that I wasn't putting enough force into the quick release. <S> They said that a good, tight, clamp should leave an imprint of the lever on your palm when you close it. <S> It will be difficult to open, but not horrible. <S> This measure of tightness has served me well so far. <S> I would also check to ensure that your clamping surfaces are clean (get rid of any excess lube which may have seeped in there). <S> You can also look at the skewer itself to ensure it is a high quality skewer. <S> For a while I was using a pair of Surly Tuggnuts which have a smooth surface facing the frame which made my problem even worse. <A> I have seen this a few times where the axle is just a tad too long. <S> No matter how tight you clamp your QR, it won't be snug enough. <S> Did you buy the frame and build it up yourself? <S> If it is the axle, you can pop the wheel out, remove the QR and take a file to one end or the other. <S> Are the axle lengths on either side of the lock nuts (these are the nuts that hold the cones in place on the hub) equal? <A> Are the skewers internal-cam or external-cam? <S> Internal-cam QR skewers have more mechanical advantage and allow for more clamping force. <S> They're also less affected by dirt and crud. <S> If you don't have internal-cam skewers, get some. <S> All you ever wanted to know about skewers, courtesy of Sheldon Brown. <A> I had this same problem <S> but i went to a bike shop and explained the situation <S> , the bike mechanic gave me a serrated washer to be placed between the skewer and the bike frame on the cassette side. <S> This solved the issue <A> I have this problem myself. <S> Take it as a compliment from your bike--it means you're capable of putting a lot of torque/power through the rear wheel! <S> It might chew up the surface and your paint a little bit, but it will help prevent slippage. <A> In my case, it turned out I had a broken axle. <S> This only became apparent after a shop offered to do a Gold Service (full strip down). <S> The only symptom that the axle was broken was the rear wheel slipping out of the frame. <S> I actually rode on a broken axle for several years! <A> PROBLEM SOLVED! <S> I got a 3/8 inch stainless lock washer (Everbilt Part #597 618 package of 2 for 60 cents) at Home Depot. <S> I put one lock washer on the drive side of the rear wheel skewer. <S> Apparently, the slipping can result when the ridges in the dropout get worn off or clogged with something like paint when you do a rattlecan paint job. <S> UPDATE: <S> OR NOT. <S> I though that the lock washer had solved the problem. <S> Well, it worked for about a week, but now the wheel is back to rubbing again. <S> I have purchased an Ultegra internal cam type QR skewer to replace the weaker external cam QR skewer that came with the wheel. <S> Hopefully this will have enough pressure to keep the wheel in the dropout. <A> Thanks for the great information on this thread. <S> I'm having the same exact problem with my bike that has horizontal dropouts. <S> I've been frustrated by the shifting rear wheel which usually happens on uphills and other inopportune moment. <S> Even wrenching my QR super tight doesn't prevent the slipping. <S> It's been an ongoing problem that has only been getting worse over time. <S> After reading this thread I inspected my QR and sure enough, the cheap aluminum grips are totally worn down (see my pic below). <S> Sheldon Brown recommends using QR with steel teeth on horizontal dropouts. <S> I believe they also have steel inserts you can use along with aluminum QR. <S> I'll let you know how it works out, but I'm feeling pretty confident about this fix. <S> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html (scroll down to "Acorn-nut design" to see steel inserts) <A> Make sure your dropout faces, inside and out, are flat with no paint, burrs, or distortions, file if necessary. <S> Then use the tool to adjust for parralel dropouts. <S> Then tighten firmly. <S> Start out in lower gear to reduce torque.
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A better solution would be to purchase a quick release skewer with a rougher interface with the dropout. The type of clamp (I don't know if the older style even exists anymore, but I do run into them from time to time) can make a difference as well as the roughness of the clamping surface. Another possibility is the the wheel was built incorrectly and the axle actually needs to be moved back to center. For me, the solution was to do what you've been doing--clamp down and take your wheel off sparingly. I positioned the lock washer on the skewer between the outside clamp/nut and the spring so that when the wheel is mounted the lock washer is between the frame and the outside clamp/nut on the outside of the frame.
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How can I keep my feet from falling asleep while riding? I have mountain bike shoes and clipless pedals. When I go on long rides, my feet fall asleep and then very, very painfully wake up (on my most recent long ride, this started happening after 30ish miles and continued for the remaining 45 miles). What can I do to avoid/fix this problem? <Q> I've been suffering from this recently now that I've upped my mileage to 40+ mile rides. <S> My solution was 3 fold: 1) <S> Starting the ride with my shoes quite loose. <S> I have Shimano road / race shoes with 2 velcro straps and a ratchet strap across the top of my foot. <S> I found that I was ratcheting the shoes down too tight. <S> 2) Cleat position. <S> Try experimenting with your cleats in different positions, I've found having my cleats at the rear most setting, allows some of the pressure to be taken off the balls of my feet. <S> 3) <S> Insoles - I've bought some decent insoles as I have quite a high instep, which means all the pressure gets put through the ball of my foot. <A> I often get tingling in my outside 2 toes during long road rides. <S> Doesn't even require stopping. <S> If it becomes more severe, you may find stopping and doing some full stretching will help. <A> Correctly fitted shoes must be part of the solution. <S> However it is not good for our body’s <S> to keep making the same constrained movement for a long time . <S> So you could try stopping every hour, and removing your shoes and then flexing your feet. <A> I ran into this issue a couple of seasons ago. <S> It took a combination of three things to make my problem go away. <S> 1) <S> I wear custom-made orthotics for running and walking. <S> I had new casts done and new orthotics made. <S> (The type I use breaks down/wears out after a couple of years) <S> 2) <S> On the recommendation of my podiatrist I loosened the laces/straps on my cycling shoes. <S> I try to keep them barely snug enough to prevent my foot from sliding around. <S> 3) <S> I lowered my saddle about 1/4". <S> My saddle position was set by a fit kit at my LBS years ago. <S> I never messed with it. <S> But, you are supposed to used that initial fit and make small adjustments from there. <S> The slightly lower saddle position also helped reduce the occurrence of sore knees. <A> It could be that you over-tighen the upper part of your foot. <A> I second the recommendation to visit your LBS for a fitting. <S> Not only might they be able to help with shoe/cleat placement, but a fit in other areas such as seat height may help alleviate any nerve impingement that might be happening. <S> If you ride a lot, this is pretty important to take care of. <S> Hope it gets cleared up. <A> I had this exact problem for a while on my hybrid (which was at the time my only bike). <S> It turned out not to be shoe/foot-related at all - it was the saddle. <S> It was a wider "comfort" style saddle that came with the bike. <S> When I bought a road bike, I found that I didn't have the same problem there, and I replaced the saddle on the hybrid with a narrower road bike saddle and never had the problem there again either. <S> My guess is that somehow the way my legs were meeting the saddle was pinching a nerve or something. <A> Same - my shoes are too tight which is the root cause, but others have answered that. <S> Another factor is temperature - my shoes are built with a lot of mesh for cooling, which is great in summer. <S> However wet, cold, wintery rides make it quite unpleasant. <S> I had one MTB ride where both feet were underwater, then an hours ride home in a cold southerly. <S> The foot on the shaded side of the bike went numb and stayed numb for hours. <S> The fix for this is shoe covers, like an overshoe made out of neoprene or similar. <A> I've run into this issue recently, too. <S> Luckily, I'm in the shoe business and have easy access to custom-made orthotics. <S> I'd highly recommend visiting a local pedorthist who can fit your feet correctly in your cycling shoes to ensure proper blood flow to all areas of the foot.
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This should include proper cleat placement on your footwear. I find periodically taking one foot off a pedal and stretching my leg out and flexing my ankle around really helps. If that's not an option for you, you might consider visiting your LBS for a good fitting on your bike.
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Which mountain bike pedal is most suitable for racing? Which kind of mountain bike pedal is most suitable for racing? It needs to be pretty light, but also durable to be able to resist a tough race. <Q> I've found them to be way better than SPDs. <S> You can clip in on four sides rather than two, and in my experience, they're easier to clip out of in emergency situations than SPDs are. <S> Also, unlike SPDs, eggbeaters don't have flat surfaces, so you're less likely to slip off if you're trying to get back on after hike-a-bike sections of muddy trails. <A> I'm assuming we're taling clipless since we're talking racing. <S> I've owned a number of SPD pedals and always found them lacking. <S> I prefer Time Pedals and raced x-country on them for years. <S> I own a pair of Alium's. <S> When I bought them (5 years ago) <S> no SPD kept as clean as they did. <S> Speedplay and Crank Bros are also supposed to clear mud <S> well <S> but I've never tried them. <S> Ultimately this is a personal preference. <S> See if you can get on a few different pedals at your LBS and read some reviews in magazines and on forums. <A> The Eggbeaters as above pretty much win on weight, ground clearance and clogging up, but I have heard about the odd reliability issue, and they don't have adjustable tension <S> The Shimano SPDs have adjustable tension, even on the bottom end M520 pedal and are a bigger target to stamp a foot on if you have unclipped and need to put some power down. <S> Not that this is likely to be an issue when racing. <S> The Shimano style pedals also have a more defined 'float' (yaw of the foot) than the Eggbeaters, and a more defined point to unclip. <S> Finally, they guide your feet in quite well. <S> I have a few pairs in excess of 8 years old which are still running. <S> I haven't tried Time or Speedplay so can't comment there.
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I have had SPDs and eggbeaters, and I love the Crank Bros eggbeater pedals. If you are new to clipless pedals in general I'd recommend the M520 as the cheapest way to try them, and from there once you know what you like/don't like you can find pedals that'd suit, as all they should all be compatible with your chosen shoes.
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Periodic Maintenance Task for Bike Commuters What are the periodic maintenance tasks (weekly, monthly, annual, every X miles) that anyone who relies on a bike for transportation (typically in urban/semi-urban environments) should be performing? Ideally stated in terms of miles travelled (where applicable). <Q> Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, and road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc). <S> At a minimum what I do is: Daily : check tire air pressure. <S> Weekly : <S> Check brake pad wear, tire wear <S> Annually : complete tear down, inspection and reassembly with synthetic grease on all bearings. <A> My bike service guys wrote a blog article along these lines. <S> You may find it useful. <S> The article recommends four principals for basic bike care. <S> These are <S> Keep your tyres pumped <S> If it lives outside, use it. <S> An unused bike exposed to the elements will fairly quickly rust & seize up Lubricate - little & often, less is more Check your cables and bring back tension where needed <A> Being a big guy (~400lbs), I do a lot of damage to my bikes, so I check things more often and most of the time there isn't a problem. <S> It's just better to double check. <S> So as a result, here is my paranoid check schedule: <S> When needed: Brake fine adjust (at the lever to maintain feel). <S> Chain lube. <S> Chain cleaning (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below). <S> Clean disc brakes with rubbing alcohol. <S> Daily: <S> Tire pressure by feel <S> ( squeeeeze , it's like a hug for your tires!). <S> Brake feel (give it a good hard stab on my way out of the driveway). <S> Every 3 rides: Accurate tire pressure. <S> Weekly: Headset adjustment. <S> It's a quick check, takes all of 30 seconds if it isn't out of adjustment. <S> Visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment. <S> Chain clean. <S> Wheel bearing check. <S> Accessory tightness (is that rear rack still attached?). <S> Lube rear cog bearings with chain lube. <S> Every 3 months: <S> Chain ring bolts. <S> Pedal bearings and make sure they're tight. <A> Just to Add to the already good suggestions,If you bike at night, Weekly Check headlights/backlights and Replace batteries; especially if you have a older incandescent (ie Not LED) <S> light <A> Simply checking tire pressure weekly/monthly and maybe lubricating the chain once a year will keep it in good conditions for years (with minimal repairs needed). <S> The reason is that very few sensitive parts are exposed to weather and outside conditions: completely covering chaincase, internal hub gear, hub dynamo, etc. <S> My feeling is that it does help a lot to store the bike inside or at least under a roof to better protect it from rusting.
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Monthly : Check chain tension, chainring/cogs for wear, lube chain, adjust brakes, oil all pivot points on derailleurs, brakes etc. , clean/wipe down entire bike This depends greatly on the type of bicycle: a Dutch type commuter bike requires very little maintenance. Monthly: Bottom bracket adjustment.
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Why does my road bike come with only one valve adapter? My front tire has the skinny valve (I believe it is a Presta) and so does my rear tire. But my rear tire also has a screw-on piece that goes over the valve which I believe to be an adapter. Do they simply provide one adapter because it is cheaper and you can move it from one tire to the other? <Q> Because you only fill one tire at a time. <S> The adapter screws off and can be used on either tire if needed. <S> It can also be easily stored with your patch kit, so it doesn't need to be on the bike. <S> I only keep one around in case I get stuck with only a schraeder pump at my disposal. <A> Yes, you can remove the adapter and put it on the rear tire. <S> The reason for putting on an adapter is so that you can use air-compression equipment which is available at gas stations etc. <S> You don't actually need it if you have a good pump at home which is two fit (presta and schrader). <A> You shouldn't keep it installed while riding. <S> Many bicycle pumps can be used with both presta and shrader valves, but I'd reccomend that you keep a pump around that can pump presta natively so that you never need to mess with the valve adapter. <A> I used to always keep my adapter taped to my bike, <S> in case I needed to use a car pump.
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The adapter is only meant to be used while pumping up the tire. Most bike pumps will deal with Presta valve, so you should not have to use the adapter often.
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What are the advantages of investment casting? I'm starting to see more and more frames using investment casting for head tubes, drop outs, seat tubes, etc. Such as the new WTP c.r.e.a.m. frame . It looks nice, but I'm suspect on how much more strength this gives you over traditional welds. Does anyone have more info on this technology? The current version of this frame has a traditional seat tube and head tube. For 2014 we have done quite a bit of work to the C.R.E.A.M frame. The advanced invest casting junctions have been replaced with a more conventional welded design. The main reason for this was to make this beautiful frame more affordable. <Q> I think the investment casting of the entire headtube is something particular to BMX bikes. <S> It makes sense, for reasons outlined below. <S> Typical parts of a bicycle which can be investment-cast are: Head lugs Dropouts <S> Seat clusters <S> Bottom bracket shells <S> Seat-stay and chain-stay bridges Fork crowns <S> The easiest way to see why investment casting is preferable is to compare it to the alternative ways the same items can be made: (modified from here ) <S> This is the oldest form of metal forming on the planet. <S> Stamped & Rolled : This is the lease expensive way to make lugs in large quantities, as they can be stamped from a flat sheet, and formed into the required shape. <S> Bulge Forming : <S> Relatively rare, this involves placing a steel tube into a shaped mold and using hydrostatic pressure to expand and shape the tube. <S> Welding/Brazing Tubes Together & Filing : <S> This is also a common method, but intricate and time consuming. <S> Machined <S> /CNC'd : <S> Possible but not really used. <S> Wastes a lot of material. <S> The two biggest problems with all the alternative methods are: They are formed into a different shape from a cold, pre-formed piece of metal (Stamped, Bulge, Machined/CNC'd), thereby reducing strength, or They have some weak spot (Rolled, Welding/Brazing), thereby reducing strength. <S> In investment casting, the steel is allowed to settle into its final shape while it's hot and allowed to slowly cool. <S> This means that in it's final form, the metal is under absolutely zero stress trying to maintain it's shape. <S> Furthermore, it ensures very even distribution (for example, rolled steel may be thin on the convex side and thick on the concave side). <A> Investment casting has always been used for lugs and dropouts. <S> What you're seeing is really just a return to the old techniques, in a way. <S> Probably also the development of computerized rapid prototyping systems to produce the patterns has made designing with investment castings more attractive. <A> The advantages of investment casting are: Excellent surface finish High dimensional accuracy <S> Extremely intricate parts are castable <S> Almost any metal can be cast No flash or parting lines
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Investment Casting : This is the most common method of making high quality lugs. What happened is that bike manufacturers got away from using lugs about 20 years ago, when NC welders became available that could weld a frame quickly enough to not destroy the temper of high-quality chromoly or aluminum.
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How often should I lube my chain? I ride less than 200 miles a week, and I'm at about the 200 mile mark on my new road bike. Most of my riding is done on the road in an urban city, so there is a lot of odd, unnatural debris. My LBS told me to lube my chain every 150 miles, but I've read conflicting opinions. How often should I be lubing my chain? <Q> Lubricate when needed. <S> I don't think it's possible to put a mile marker on when to lube. <S> I think most people add chain lube too often. <S> Too much can cause debris to build up on the chain. <S> Too little lube can cause unnecessary friction; but you'll know pretty quickly by the looks (and possibly sound) of it if you have too little lube. <S> Hints: <S> Wipe your chain off before you addmore lube. <S> [*] Is the color black? <S> Is it greasy? <S> Wipe all that schmutz off until it'slooking dry. <S> Add lube while rotating cranks. <S> Tips: <S> Lube the night before you ride <S> : thisgives the lube a chance to 'spread'. <S> Wipe <S> the excess off immediatelybefore you ride - but not until dryas above. <S> ^ <S> [*]. <S> Wiping off the chain is best done in a work stand or while the bike is in a position where you can rotate the crankarm such that you can hold a rag to the chain while the chain is moving. <A> Definitely lube the bike after cleaning the drivetrain, or after riding in the rain. <S> In terms of adding lube in between cleanings, every week or two should be fine, more often if the drivetrain is getting noisy. <S> Just a few drops of lube should be enough, unless you ride on very dirty roads. <A> The better you maintain your chain the longer it will last. <S> To clean your chain you can either use a chain cleaning tool, I use this one from Park Tool which is excellent: <S> The alternative is to put a SRAM powerlink in your chain: and remove your chain and clean it in with a solvent like paraffin (kerosene to Americans) <S> The choice of lubricant is also debatable, speak to someone at your LBS and get their recommendations for your riding conditions. <A> Every 150 miles sounds like an awful lot, but then I guess I don't cycle as much as you. <S> "Little & Often" is the best advice I've heard. <A> I ride 250KM a week and I give it a squirt just before my long ride on the weekends. <S> You can't really damage it by over lubing the chain. <S> Sure if you store it inside too much lube can make the chain drip. <S> If you do it just before a ride then no dripping in the house. <A> I only lube after I clean the chain. <S> I ride around 100 miles per week on average. <S> My bike has been holding up well over the years. <S> I clean and lube once every 2-3 weeks. <A> I have a couple of different lubes. <S> One is for dry weather and is prone to washing off if it gets too much rain or puddle water on it, it's easy to tell when that needs replacing because you can hear it squeak. <S> The other one is a wet lube which I tend to use from autumn to spring <S> but it's a lot stickier and even with a good wipe down after applying, it will collect dust, dirt and grime. <S> If I notice too much build-up it's time to clean and re-lube. <S> I will often clean with a rag, spray with GT-85 to displace water for a bit and then wipe down before applying lube as per the other posters' recommendations. <S> Leave for 2-5mins before wiping off the excess.
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I would say that it is best to clean and lube your chain after every ride.
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Quiet and strong chain recommendation for fixed gear commuter bike I went through a couple of chains on my fixie bike, but I was not too happy with any of them.Basically they seemed pretty noisy when more pressure was applied where cycling. Could you recommend one that would be both strong and quiet. Thanks <Q> Chain noise is not completely avoidable on fixed-gears, due to the stress from chain tension, etc. <S> However, there are many types of chain which would be inappropriate to use and would cause extra noise. <S> Also, be sure to keep your chain clean and well lubricated! <S> Even on regular bikes, the majority of chain noise comes from a dry chain. <A> I've used the Sram PC7X <S> and it was a perfectly fine, silent chain for me. <S> Ensure your chainline offset is equal on the front and rear. <S> Also, it is a common misconception that fixed-gear chains should be "as tight as possible", this leads to binding and premature chain wear. <S> Lastly, I note that you're using a 1/8" chain; if you have a 3/32" chainring or cog in your drivetrain the extra 1/32" of slop can definitely cause a bit of a chattering noise. <A> You could try the Izumi 1-1/8" V super-tough track chain. <S> It's expensive, but very good.
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Another typical source of noise in fixed-gear or singlespeed riding is an offset chainline. A dry and/or dirty chain is, in fact often the culprit. Be sure to purchase a 'track' chain (some are produced by Miche, Izumi, and KMC) and expect to pay $20+ for a quality chain.
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Best type of bike lock (materials, style, etc.) I recently lost the keys to my lock and had to borrow a bolt cutter to free my bike. It was a bit of an eye opener to realise a) just how easy it was for the bolt cutters to cut through my D Lock (<10 seconds), and b) that nobody on a busy town shopping street batted an eyelid at me doing so. When choosing a new lock, what should I look for in terms of build material or design that would make it harder to cut through (using relatively small/discrete bolt cutters)? <Q> Get the kryptonite fahgettaboutit - as small as possible. <S> Kryptonite 997986 <S> Best lock out there. <S> Because the shackle is 18mm thick, I don't think you could cut it with bolt cutters, so you would need a hydraulic jack -- but the opening is too small for a jack to get through -- that's the main reason to go for a smaller lock, <S> so there is no room for the jack; or, a disc grinder to get thru it. <A> I second the advice suggesting a small U-lock. <S> Also, see Sheldon Brown's advice for locking strategy, which has done me well so far. <A> I like the Axa Defender that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bike stand. <S> It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you. <S> As they are not common in the UK, most people don’t know how to defeat them. <A> Take a look here for a nice bike lock guide, and make sure you browse the comments, there are some good info there as well. <S> Also, there is this little trick my friend does... <S> he has a good U-Lock <S> but, he also uses a cheap chain lock. <S> His reasoning is that the thief usually carries one specialized tool and would probably skip his bike, because it would require fiddling with two completely different set of tools. :) <A> I use a Kryptonite Evolution Mini: https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1000&pid=1100 <S> It fits in a back pocket, is compact enough that it's hard for thieves to get a tool inside of it to pry it apart, and lets you lock your bike to parking meters since it is too small to fit over the top. <S> This lock is too small to secure anything besides the frame, so I also use locking wheel skewers and carry the key everywhere I go. <S> This is a great combination of equipment; it only takes me ten seconds to lock up my bike. <A> Two suggestions for securing your wheels, seats and components: <S> Pitlocks are locks that will lock your wheels and seat in place. <S> I have never used them before but they seem like an interesting solution. <S> I have also heard of people locking in their components by dropping a ball bearing followed by hot wax into the allen screw. <S> This makes it very difficult to quickly take off the components. <S> To do so you need a long nettle or a lighter. <S> Die! <S> Bike thieves! <A> If you bike in a big city with plenty of street signs and bike bars to lock up to, the TiGr lock is the strongest and lightest lock you can find. <S> Titanium bar bike lock <S> It is basically a titanium bar bent in a U shape (and covered in clear plastic so it doesn't scratch your bike). <S> The thin version weighs 11.3 ounces! <S> You carry it on your top tube with a couple of velcros straps. <S> It locks both front and back wheels plus your frame to any stop sign or bike parking fixture. <S> I got mine during their KickStarter project a year ago. <S> Advantages: <S> Extremely light weight (11.3 ounces) Doesn't rattle on the bike. <S> Can not be cut with bolt cutters Takes much longer to grind through than a Kryptonite lock <S> Disadvantages: <S> Can not be used to lock your bike to large objects (like trees, street lights...) <S> It is pretty expensive <A> In NY, there are many people, including me, with this lock . <S> The one downside is its weight, <S> ~6 lbs! <S> I usually carry in a backpack or wear it around my <S> waist(that's what the badass bike messengers here do... <S> I'm <S> not one of them. <S> :) ) <A> I'm not sure if it is the best lock, but it certainly is more safe against lockpicking than many locks: <S> The Forever Lock See YouTube video and store . <S> (and an attacking YouTube video ) <S> Three locks I often read about when looking for secure bike locks are: ~ <S> $145, 1.6kg: <S> Abus Bordo Granit <S> X-Plus (Folding Lock; shop ) <S> ~ <S> $80, ~1.4kg: ABUS Granit X-Plus 54 (U-Lock; shop ) <S> ~ $80, ~2 <S> kg: <S> Kryptonite New York Lock (U-Lock; shop ) <S> General lock type security <S> According to the German ADFC ( source ): <S> Cable locks are not secure even against simple attacks Frame locks are not secure even against simple attacks - but they might be good to prevent the theft of a wheel. <S> chain locks offer medium security <S> U-locks are most secure - however, if you get the cheapest one it will still not be secure.
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steel-jacketed cable lock offer medium securit 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock,Black Mini As always best to combine with a second lock of a different design.
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When should I use lockout feature on my fork? I have a trekking bike with a 63mm fork which has a lockout feature enabling the control of the suspension. Can you explain when should I lock the fork, in what position and why? One obvious example would be when climbing hills, one should lock the fork in minimum suspension (almost no suspension, the fork is stiff/hard as if there is no suspension at all). The reason is to prevent that the part of the energy is lost on the amortization... But, what are other examples? What should one do when going down the hill? Or going really fast? <Q> Anytime the fork bob is robbing you of power. <S> That can include flats, sprints, climbing... <S> Best advice is probably to try it out on all the terrains you ride and decide where it works and where it doesn't. <A> Any time you're climbing and can handle the obstacles without suspension. <S> The force of your foot gnashing down the pedal is going to compress the suspension, thus sapping some of your precious force (and thus, speed). <S> Also good for any time you don't need suspension due to good surface quality. <S> For example, the well maintained fire-road leading to where you want to ride. <A> On my hybrid, I keep the front suspension locked at maximum height when I'm on the road/flat cycle route. <S> If I go off a flat route onto a more lumpy one, or get to a particularly bad section of road for pot holes (like the A6 as you come into Little Hulton from Horwich) <S> then I unlock the suspension. <S> when I have the suspension locked at maximum height I feel as though I'm getting more power for my energy expenditure (although this is totally subjective and could be completely the opposite to what is actually the case), and it feels like it takes more enbergy to do the same stretch of road when I have the suspension unlocked. <A> Elite athlete road bikes do not have suspension but top competition trail bikes do--that should tell you something. <S> but it comes at the price of weight and energy waste as you pump away on the pedals. <S> A rocky downhill route--use a bike with suspension; a hilly but smooth road course--grab that bike without the suspension. <S> My regular route is a combination of both: I bushbash for short sections through sand, mud and tree roots but most of the way is smooth tar with scream descents and hard climbs, thus I have a hybrid with a suspension lock on the front forks. <S> While the road bikers get away from me on the smooth, I quickly overtake them on the rough sections. <A> As others have said, you should lock it out when you want to put more power to the wheel. <S> i.e. a flat road, moderately smooth trail. <S> Being robbed of energy isn't as bad on a hard tail, but on a full sussy it is noticeable in various situations. <S> I always lock out when climbing, especially if you stand while climbing. <S> Tire pressure will also play a role. <S> If you can run lower psi then you may not need the fork as often. <S> Personally, When I'm trail riding, I always have the fork unlocked. <S> If I happen to hit a fast flat section, I will lock it out. <S> If I'm on the road I lock it out. <S> Of course it all depends on personal preference. <S> Try different things until you find what feels right. <A> I have several bikes but I ride my fatbike through the winter months, and in summer when my usual route is to wet/muddy, leave my fork unlocked most of summer but lock it all winter because most suspension seals are not intended for temps lower than 20 degrees F. <S> I dont want to have to replace seals every spring.
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If I come to steep climb, I lock it. Suspension is for giving the best possible contact with the road and therefore safety and rider comfort For descending I always have the fork unlocked.
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Where can I find local bike routes? Where are the best places to find bike maps with local routes and trails? Places I typically reference when searching for this includes: Most local bike shops (LBS) have local maps available or for sale. Employees of any LBS are often avid riders and will hold a plethora of knowledge about the local area and trails. Local trail clubs (typically volunteers that help maintain trails in an area) can be a resource to direct you to finding maps or trail information. Your local Chamber of Commerce or Parks & Rec type of department will typically have maps of local bike routes. Google Maps has recently introduced the ability to find directions from one place to another by bike. For certain metro areas they will route you along known bike routes or trails. When doing directions click on the "Bike" icon to tailor it specifically for bikes. Please feel free to add more. <Q> (still in beta but very good nonetheless. <S> http://www.bikely.com <S> http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/ <S> http://www.ridethecity.com <S> http://www.pedaling.com <S> are some of the more popular routing sites <S> , I'm sure there are more but <S> that should get you started :) <S> Also (added by editor) <S> http://ridewithgps.com/ <S> http://bikeroutetoaster.com/ <S> https://www.strava.com/activities/search <A> OpenCycleMap , based on OpenStreetMap, is another resource you might consider. <S> It uses a Creative Commons Attribution-Share <S> Alike license, which is why many of the mobile applications actually use the OpenCycleMap data. <S> Anyone can register and contribute to OpenCycleMap, so in that sense it is like Wikipedia, in that it is often more up-to-date. <S> Just looking at OpenCycleMap is much easier than a Google Map for instance, because the cycle routes are clearly marked. <S> www.skobbler.us <S> is useful as an app on a smart phone. <S> It does not only provide car routes but also for bike and pedestrian. <S> But both are basically maps, not so much suggestions where to ride. <A> Type in the region that you're interested in, and you'll see bike routes that others have ridden on. <S> It's a great way to find new routes and there's very detailed GPS data (and elevation profiles!) <S> available for each one of those routes. <S> Here's an example of routes that I found for my vacation in Seaside, OR earlier this year. <A> Ride with GPS <S> is my current fave and keeps getting better. <S> Here are the features: <S> Draw routes on a map before you ride, then download to your GPS unit for turn-by-turn directions <S> See elevation profile as you draw <S> , so you know how difficult the ride will be before you head out No sign-up required <S> , no GPS required <S> In my area there are a lot of user contributed routes, but may not be the case everywhere. <A> I can see that nobody has yet mentioned http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com <S> which I use for route creation before I head out on an unknown territory. <S> Slowdown uphill calculation based on steepness <S> The best thing about it is that you can set few parameters (defaults are quite fine for advanced recreation) and it calculates timing based on these parameters which turn out to be quite good. <S> You can then upload it to your GPS unit (ie. <S> GARMIN EDGE 500) and use it as your virtual partner. <S> You can also set track points, so your unit can tell you when and where to turn (you can do that easily on a map because you see roads). <S> I'm using GARMIN EDGE 500 <S> which doesn't have maps so <S> these turns on unknown roads are great. <S> I can focus more on my ride than finding my way on unknown village roads. <S> The only downside to it is that it doesn't calculate descends. <S> It uses your flat speed for that, because descends are tricky. <S> So you gain a bit over your virtual partner on descends. <S> But if nothing else that's a nice confidence booster for you. <S> So I use: <S> http://connect.garmin.com for uploading data <S> http://www.ridewithgps.com <S> for better section analysis <S> http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com <S> for great pre-ride routing capabilities <S> If anyone knows of an alternative to bikeroutetoaster.com I'd be interested to hear about it. <A> http://www.mapmyride.com/ <S> is another good resource. <S> Those are the ones I use. <A> Some cities also have a Google Maps layer for bike routes. <S> When punching in source and destination address, there will be a little bike icon if it's available. <S> Haven't tried it out, so have no idea how accurate it is, but it might be worth a shot. <A> Strava.com and mapmyride.com are particularly nice for finding routes. <S> They also categorize the climbs (from #5 to Hors) as documentation for bragging rights. <S> Both have smartphone apps. <S> Mapmyride has a slightly better UI (IMO), but strava has more users/rides (at least in the areas I am interested in). <S> One interesting thing you can do on strava for giggles is to check out what the pros do on their rides: Like this ! <S> Bikely used to be the best, but they have problems with uptime and lag (the server is in GB). <A> In Belgium and The Netherlands there exists a "Fietsroutenetwerk" (Bicycle route network). <S> This is great for planning road trips. <S> Short and longer ones. <S> Alongside save and good cycling roads, there are simple signs with numbers that point to the next node in the network. <S> At nodes, there are signs to connected nodes. <S> The idea is, that you plan your own route, but you need to know the numbers of the nodes. <S> There are websites and plans that can help you with your planning ( Example ). <S> At home you make a list of node's to follow, like (14 - 15 - 16 - 14), and you can simply follow the signs. <S> Nodes are not connected with the shortest route, but with nice and safe bike routes. <S> There's over 20.000 km documented, and connected routes. <A> I'm rather fond of Everytrail . <S> You can find maps for just about any activity, not just biking, though that's what I primarily use it for. <S> There are iPhone and Android apps too, which work really well. <S> They just added the ability to search for trails based on your current location (in the Android version at least), filterable by activity (road biking, mountain biking, etc). <S> I've found a bunch of new places to check out this way. <A> Transport Direct have a route planner which includes cycling routes and has some nice options (especially the choice between quietest, quickest and most recreational route). <S> CycleGM have details of all cycle lanes and traffic free routes through Greater Manchester on their website, but the online map is not very user friendly. <A> I mostly use Wikiloc . <S> You can find routes for different activities, visualize them in Google maps, open them in Google Earth and load them into your GPS.
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You can use google maps, and click on the bike to see local bike paths and trails. Go to http://connect.garmin.com , and click on the "Explore" link. Runkeeper.com can have some routes but the only ones I find for my area is the ones I've added.
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Basic toolkit for bicycle maintenance What should be in the basic toolkit for someone that wants to maintain their own bicycle?I'm looking for something for your average day to day maintenance and tools that I will get the most use out of. Ex: I don't think I need a chain oil/lube/clean contraption...(do I?) I have some hex wrenches, a few tire levers for changing tires, random screwdrivers, and pliers. Do I need a chain tool? Do I need a bike stand? (I sometimes invert the bike and do tuning that way) <Q> I would classify tools into two groups. <S> The ones you ride with, and the ones you keep at home. <S> There may be a bunch of overlap, but it is harder to work with a multi-purpose tool, so if you end up using one tool all the time, a purpose-specific tool may be worth the purchase. <S> Tools to carry with you: <S> Tire levers. <S> Patch Kit. <S> Multi Tool . <S> There are a plethora of these. <S> I'd suggest visiting your LBS to find one you like. <S> Should have all of the hex wrenches you need for on the route fixes. <S> Leatherman (optional). <S> When you need it, you need it. <S> Until then, it's just dead weight. <S> Tools for at home: <S> Hex wrenches (optional if your Multi Tool has them already). <S> Bikes tend to use hex bolts all over the place, so a nice set of these can make your life easier. <S> Regular wrenches (optional based on the bike). <S> Axel nuts, pedals, and a few other odd bits might use these. <S> I believe everything on my bike is a 15mm wrench. <S> So maybe just need one? <S> Also may be included in your Multi Tool. <S> Chain lube. <S> I prefer T9 lube, but I know a lot of people who run straight 30w engine oil. <S> Yes, you need lube. <S> Otherwise your bike will end up sounding like a hamster wheel. <S> Chain Cleaner . <S> If you ride enough that you are posing this question, you will probably need one eventually. <S> Road grime sticks to chain lube and can grind away at the soft internal workings of your drive train. <S> They're also pretty cheap and really easy to use. <S> Other Tools: Chain breaker. <S> This is useful if you need to replace or shorten your chain. <S> Until then, it isn't really needed. <S> May be included in your Multi Tool. <S> Bike stand. <S> Almost never necessary. <S> Nice , but not necessary. <S> Most of my bike work is done with the bike upside down on the carpet at home. <S> Cone wrenches . <S> Really nice if you know how to adjust your bearings. <S> I don't, so I take it to someone who does when they are out of adjustment. <S> Bottom bracket tool . <S> Most of the time your bottom bracket will not need maintenance, so it is easy to take it to your LBS. <S> That is everything I can think of right now. <A> A cheap box of latex gloves. <S> There's nothing worse than having to do one small job, and then having to spend longer cleaning your hands than you did doing the job in the first place. <A> cassette tool BB puller <S> wire cutters <S> lube tire levers <S> chain whip <A> I have the following in my bag <S> (bike related):- pump- tire repair set- <S> spare batteries- <S> spare inner tire- screwdriver and wrenches <S> At home I have a complete set for almost anything (I'm a tool addict, and we now have a workshed with space for anything).
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My kit includes: portable shop stand allen keys screw drivers chain breaker
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At what time of year can I buy a bicycle for the best price? Is there a month when new models come out and dealers discount stock like with cars? Do they raise prices in the spring and lower them in the winter? <Q> Probably not what you're looking for, but... <S> if you live near a college campus and are willing to buy used, the end of May might be a good time to check Craigslist. <A> According to lifehacker end of January or February: <S> http://lifehacker.com/5440376/the-best-times-to-buy-anything-all-year-round <S> why? <S> Bicycles and outdoor <S> The stores start replacing fall and winter stuff with spring and summer models, and that's true for most all outdoor gear from shoes to bikes, hiking gear, everything," says Dennis Lewon, senior editor for Outside magazine. <S> Some companies will send out special holiday items that will land in the discount section after the season. " <S> In general, most of the new products come to stores in February," Lewon says. <A> Where I am in NY, all of the dealers tend to have big sales in Feb-March to make room for the new stock. <S> I bought my bike @30% off, which is a pretty big savings. <A> This depends on where you live, however, in the UK the cycling season is May to September. <S> Nowadays, in the UK, Christmas is a minor blip, not a sales extravaganza as people wanting kids bikes go to non-specialist shops and get something cheap. <S> Much like how Christmas comes earlier and earlier every year, so it is with 'next year model' bikes. <S> As a consequence you can have two model years in the showroom. <S> Sometimes the model range is tweaked (e.g. Ridgeback) or all new (e.g. Giant). <S> Tweaked model ranges tend not to precipitate a sale price on the old models, all new model ranges can result in sale prices for the old ones. <S> Given the above, February is probably the best month, i.e. when the local bike shop is most wanting any money in the cash register for cashflow reasons. <S> The question is, do you really want the bike that nobody else wanted, the one that has already seen a few test rides and been knocked about a bit? <S> It can be a case of buyer beware but definitely worth looking out for. <S> However, given that the new bike will hopefully be your pride and joy, consider getting a new bike, in your size, on special order so that it is truly brand new. <S> If you have the mechanic skills try to get the bike in the box rather than assembled. <S> Some shops will give you a fair discount for that if you have the ability to convince them that you can set it up all by yourself. <S> Check the contents of the box when you collect it, take it home and have fun setting up the bike perfectly... <A> As others have stated, it depends on the season, but also on the type of bike you want. <S> I have noticed that in Southern Ontario (Canada), the new models for mid-range and above bikes (say $800 CAD) can be discounted by September, if not sooner. <S> Large bike manufacturers tend to announce their models for the next year by early fall, so retailers may be anxious to clear out old stock at that point. <S> By year end, there will also be more consensus (sadly this information tends to be conflicting) on which models have quality or build problems (more frequent than you may expect). <S> Speak to several riders you trust for feedback, but beware of of the 'zealous' who often try to impose their opinions <S> ;-) <S> Retailers are often present with stock they want to sell off, and you may find a good deal. <S> In this case, since you may only have a few hours at the show to make your purchase, it's very important to do all of your research in advance . <S> Find out: <S> Which retailers are attending, and what can you find out about them? <S> What products will they be selling? <S> Do you have a personal relationship with the retailer/purchased from them in the past? <S> You may be able to negotiate a better price based on repeat business. <S> Will the retailer provide a full warrantee . <S> Also, are they located close enough for you to take advantage. <S> What payment methods will be accepted? <A> January, Most of the bike shops sell a lot of bicycles during Christmas and they want to get rid of all extra stock when the holidays are over. <S> But it's at least true in a bit warmer places. <A> As aptly said in previous answers, where you live, your budget and local customs/festivals are the major factors affecting the reduced bike prices. <S> In western India (as far as I have observed), the prices of old models of bike do come down before or after big festivals like Diwali. <S> During that time it can maintain a bit of peak pricing. <S> The price has been observed occasionally to come down around Dec-Jan & Feb-March since new products are being dumped into stores. <S> In all honesty, nobody can answer this better than a local shop guy where you go regularly.
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Other times to look for deals are during local bike shows. This might depend on the region where you live, as Christmas time might not be suitable for biking and bike shops will thus not sell a lot of bikes. "January is good for looking for the old models in the classic post-holiday shopping period." gear"If you want the newest stuff, the time to look is in February and March, when the season's models come out.
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How do I get my brakes to stop squealing I've tried sanding them down just a bit, cleaning the brake surface on the wheels, and this does stop them from squealing for a day or two, but it always comes back. I'm using Kool-stop pads if it matters. <Q> There are a few causes for brake 'squealing': <S> New pads. <S> After a bit of wear (or sandpapering), the squealing will stop. <S> Misalignment. <S> Check out Sheldon Brown's tips for alignment suggestions. <S> Oil or water on the rim. <S> Either of these substances, even in small portions, combined with dirt or debris on the rim can create squealing. <S> Incompatible rims/pads. <S> No one else has mentioned this, but this is often the most common cause. <S> Rims are generally made from one of two materials: steel or alloy. <S> (You can tell the difference by seeing if a magnet will attract (steel) or not (alloy)). <S> Incidentally, brake pads are made of specific compounds to work on one or the other. <S> Often, using pads designed for alloy rims (like most Kool-Stops) will squeal if used on steel (which I'm guessing you have). <A> Brakes have to be toed in. <S> What that means is that the front of the brake pad has to touch the rim before the back of the brake pad. <S> It does not have to be an extreme variance <S> but it will make a world of difference when properly adjusted. <S> Hopefully you have aluminum rims. <S> I have had the misfortune of working on some bikes with steel rims from which I could not remove the squealing. <A> Take a look at the adjustment of your pads. <S> Sheldon Brown has a great article on how to do this. <A> Could be just from touching or leaking braking fluid. <S> Use rubbing alcohol on pads (after sanding) and on rotors. <S> That's how I fixed mine a year ago and never heard a squeal again.
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As some others have mentioned, misalignment may cause squealing (although it would be reduced with some wear). Wipe the rims thoroughly on the braking surface, as well as the pads, with a dry cloth. The major cause of squealing is oil on your rotors/pads.
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Convert fixed gear to coaster bike I want to convert my fixed gear 700c bike (raleigh rush hour) to coaster break bike. Can anyone recomend the best way to do this. Can anyone recomend a good coaster rear hub or coaster rear wheel? <Q> This can be done two ways: <S> Easy way: <S> Purchase a new 700c wheel with coaster brake hub from your Local Bike Shop or the internet. <S> It may be hard to find this as it is not a particularly popular option, but it's not uncommon to find one at a well-appointed bike shop. <S> Hard way <S> : Purchase a new coaster brake hub, and rebuild your existing rear wheel (or have it rebuilt--wheel building is a complex process) with the new hub. <S> Additionally, you'll be sure to have matching front & rear rims. <S> Other than that <S> , there are no other steps or considerations you'll need to take. <A> I found a great set of coaster wheels online at espresso wheels dot com. <S> They sell ready made deep V coaster wheels in four colours: white, matt black, polished silver and turquoise for £139. <S> They also do custom wheel builds, sell the rims and hubs separately and ship anywhere in the world. <A> Don't forget to make certain the reaction arm is properly and securely fixed to the frame. <S> During mad skidzzzz there will be serious force put on it, so don't take the matter likely. <S> If it comes loose while stopping, not only might it make stopping a challenge, it can destroy the hub bearings.
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One advantage to rebuilding your existing wheel is that it will be easier to find a new or used, unbuilt coaster-brake hub.
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How tight should my chain be? I recently put new tires on my bike, and in so doing, removed and replaced the wheels. It seems that now my chain has more slack in it than before, and if I pedal backwards while in the smaller cog in the main set of gears the chain rubs on the deraillieur. Is this normal? Why is my chain more slack now that it was before, if the wheels are the same? What shold I do to fix the problem? <Q> Dérailleurs exist not only to change gears, but to add tension to the chain as well. <S> If you are noticing chain slack, and nothing else has changed or been replaced, the reason for chain slack is that the dérailleur has lost this ability. <S> This could be for a few reasons: <S> The dérailleur has lost some of it's 'springy-ness'. <S> This can happen over long periods of time, but also can be indicative of damage, but is less likely. <S> The dérailleur has shifted positions. <S> Some dérailleurs bolt directly to the frame, but some do not, and instead are positioned in the dropout. <A> It could be that the deraillieur has moved to the front. <S> It could be that the entire unit has rotated around <S> it's attachment point, or that it has other adjusts screws you accidently touched. <S> Have a good look as to how it sits now before you start twiddling. <A> The small jockey wheels on the derailleur can also seize up preventing it from functioning properly, you should if you're lucky be able to remove them and regrease them if needed.
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If you have this type of dérailleur, and recently removed your wheels, it's possible that the dérailleur has 'slipped' in the dropout.
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How do I align a wheel? I broke a couple of spokes on my wheel, now it's all bent, how can I align it back again? What kind of tools do I need to do a good job? <Q> First, replace the missing spokes with properly sized spokes. <S> Next, on the drive side of a rear wheel with derailleur gears you will need to remove the cassette, insert the new spoke(s), then replace it. <S> That requires a special tool (there are several variations for different cassettes and freewheels). <S> A bike shop can do this or sell you the correct tool. <S> You will always need the next special tool: a spoke wrench <S> that fits the size of spokes you have. <S> While a truing stand is great, you can do some basic truing of a bike with rim brake by simply putting the bike on a stand. <S> With disk brakes a cable tie round the bike frame or fork can be turned so the free end is almost (but not quite) <S> touching the rim. <S> Anything similar will work, you just need something close to the rim that lets you see the gap between that and the rim. <S> Let the air out of the tire. <S> Air pressure in the tire will push the tube against the turning top of the spoke head, and can puncture the tube. <S> Spin the wheel slowly and watch the space between the rim and the brake pad. <S> When you have found the centre of a an area that is listing to one side, use your truing wrench to loosen the spoke nearest to it on that side ¼ to ½ turn, and tighten the spokes on the opposite side an equivalent amount. <S> As long as you work in small steps and work slowly, it is safe to play around and figure out how truing works. <S> Patience is required. <A> Other things to note are: <S> Deflate the tyre before performing the re-truing. <S> If you don't do this, you can end up drilling a hole through the rim tape with your spoke nipple. <S> Look at the way the other spokes are laced to get the lacing of your new spokes correct. <S> Consider buying a few extra spokes from your local bike store when you get the replacements. <S> I find that once a wheel reaches the stage where a spoke or two breaks, it is common for a few other spokes to break not long after. <A> The basic tool you would need is a spoke wrench . <S> This will allow you to pull the rim (by the spokes) back into true. <S> The spoke wrench is actually turning the spoke nipple out at the rim. <S> The tool you would need in order to tell if it is true is a truing stand . <S> The tool you will need to make it all work is your brain. <S> =-] <A> For your wheel, you'll want to get spokes cut to the length of your wheel by a local bike shop. <S> The length depends on the rim size, the hub size, and the spoke pattern, so the best way to do this is to bring the wheel in yourself. <S> Bringing the wheel in will also help the mechanics to tell you if it is beyond repair - once wheels have bent more than an inch or so, they rarely can be trued to be as strong as they were. <S> Once you have the spokes and the nipples to attach them to the rim, you can tighten them with a spoke wrench. <S> Keep in mind that you are tightening the spoke into the nipple, so if you are looking from hub to rim, you want to turn left to tighten and right to loosen. <S> There's a more in depth explanation of this up on wikibooks, as well: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Wheels_and_Tires/Truing_a_bicycle_wheel <A> Yet another very-slightly different answer follows below. <S> I never owned a stand, and don't have the space for one in my apartment. <S> Plus I prefer to do it in the park in clear air with a beer in hand. <S> My procedure: (0) <S> This answer concerns only the in-frame method, that is, when you have V-brakes. <S> Why would you true a wheel on which the rim is not rubbing against any pads? <S> (1) Turn the bike upside down. <S> (2) Check if there are any very loose or very tight spokes. <S> Your wheel is already out of true, it won't hurt to correct problems. <S> Overtightened spokes may break, while loose ones might rattle when they become even more loose. <S> (3)Tighten your brakes excessively. <S> That is, unscrew this so that the wheel barely turns and rubs most of the time: (4) Turn the tire and find the place where it rubs the most. <S> Identify which side it rubs and correct it as others have noted. <S> (5) Repeat 4. <S> lots of times. <S> (6) Finish your beer and get another.
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Once you have the new spokes tightened down, work your way around the hub, tightening spokes to adjust the rim position. You can use the frame itself as a truing stand. As per the other responses, the main tool you need is a spoke wrench. If the rim itself is bent, it may be hard or impossible to true.
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How can I pedal in circles? I couple of years ago I switched from using a normal pedal to using a clipless pedal. It takes a little while to get used to. Now, to be able to use it optimally I need to learn how to pedal in circles instead of in squares, eg applying the same force during the whole rotation "orbit". What do I need to think of to be able to pedal properly? <Q> With your bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes. <S> Then switch and do the same for your other leg. <S> This exercise will give a very natural feel to how your legs should be rotating to achieve an efficient pedaling stroke. <A> I was told to imagine that you are trying to scrape some mud off your foot. <S> I am not too sure where you should stop this pulling, but I would say it is about 8 O'Clock, since by that stage your other foot should be starting to put some pressure on the other crank. <A> Mountain Biking is the best thing. <S> Was just reading a training article by Chris Carmicheal (trained Lance Armstrong) and in studies he did mountain bikers had the best natural spin. <S> They figure it came from climbing on loose dirt while seated to make sure you had good traction. <S> Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot. <S> I do this once a week at the end of a ride. <S> Only for a block or two <S> but it really emphasizes the lack of pedaling in a circle. <A> I find that the best time to practice making good circular rotations is when I am completely out of gear (doing 20mph in the granny gear, for example). <S> I ride a single speed, so this is pretty easy for me. <S> Being out of gear allows me to feel how circular my movements really are. <S> If I'm not pulling back at the bottom of my stroke and then up the back side, I feel the bike lurching around under me. <S> This helped me, maybe it can help you as well. <A> <A> There are a couple tools (both quite expensive though) that can help. <S> It all comes down to muscle memory though, the more you spin the better you get at it. <S> Computrainer has a spin scan to help identify flat or dead spots in your cadence. <S> Powercranks force you into leg isolation by disconnecting the cranks from each other. <A> If you are after smoothness, then pulling up may improve your game. <S> The concept that you need to pull with the upward-bound leg/pedal is a myth that has been perpetrated because it feels good! <S> It may be worth doing, for that reason, alone. <S> ;] But experts have found that max power is generated when concentrating on the downward leg while completely unweighting the other until it returns to the top of the stroke. <S> In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues you are dealing with, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will def help you find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke. <A> I got this trick off the Internet about ten years ago. <S> Can't remember where, I'm afraid, or I'd credit the source. <S> Imagine that your feet are really hands , and that you're not pedalling, but winding yourself along some kind of rack-and-pinion track. <S> Picture it, feel it, and keep that motion in mind as you pedal. <S> Stay vigilant: if you notice yourself going back to piston-pedalling, just think of hands again, and you'll soon make it a habit.
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A technique which may help you get a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called isolated leg . Our hands are much better equipped for the right kind of push-pull motion than our feet, so thinking of winding with your hands primes your motor cortex to keep a consistent amount of force round the whole revolution. As you pull down from about 1 O'Clock, just as you reach about 5 O'Clock, start to pull your foot back, pointing your toes towards the ground, like trying to scrape some mud off the front of your shoe. I certainly am no expert but some things that helped me a set of rollers (not a stand/trainer) but rollers can help smooth your motion "thinking in circles" helps as well. Visualize the foot/pedal motion
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When to change disk brake pads I was wondering how to tell when your disk brake pads need replacing. My front seems to be not stopping as quickly as it used to, or as I would like. I know this could be road grime build up, but I am not sure the indicators for replacement time for the pads. <Q> You should just pull the pads out and see how worn down they are - or if they are really dirty. <S> Sometimes it helps to get some rubbing alcohol and clean the pads and rotors. <A> I change mine as soon as they don't work as expected. <S> You usually notices this when you have to apply an unusual amount of force on he levers to make the bike brake. <S> It really depends on how much you use the bike, it can be enough to go out in the rain and brake hard a couple of times to destroy a set of break pads. <A> Shimano and SRAM specify minumum pad thickness, which you can look up. <S> Park Tool suggest at least 1mm, which you can measure with 3 business cards . <A> Causes of poor performance? <S> Hydraulic fluid leaking from brake cylinders (even tiny amounts you cannot see) or burning of pads by over-exuberant use before they are bedded-in. <S> I'm getting better at both these issues!
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I've had disc brake pads become poor performing well before they are worn out, with no recovery possible, so I now keep a small stock of relatively cheap pads to swap out when I start to get performance issues.
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What is a good small bicycle bag to store your gear and/or personal things? I'm looking for one that attaches to your bike and easily detaches so you can take it with you. I usually ride with a small Timbuktu messenger style bag (really small, it's about the size of a large book) and I carry my wallet, phone, keys and stuff in it. Is there something for bikes so that I can easily attach and detach from the bike? <Q> Saddle Bag <S> It may seem too small at first. <S> But check what I can fit in with my Specialized Saddle Bag : <S> Two spare inner tube boxes Cell phone Keys Money Train travel card 3 tire levers Small toolset <A> I just picked up a Timbuk2 Handlebar Bag , and so far am loving it. <S> Has a nice velcro-down pouch, and attached to the bike via two velcro strips. <S> It is on the bike well enough to hold my daily lunch, u-lock, glasses and a few other things. <S> It also has straps to turn it into a fanny-pack style bag. <A> I actually just found this great bag that got high reviews. <S> Avenir Bigmouth Velcro Seat Bag . <S> It easily attaches/detaches. <S> According to one reviewer, it takes less than 15 secs. <S> This is large enough for my stuff and a few essential tools that were recommended here in this forum. <A> You might want to look into pannier bags (if you have a rack on the back of your bike). <S> There are all sorts of sizes, styles, and types of bags, including those large enough for groceries. <S> I got a pair from Walmart (I can't remember which brand) for about $25 that I use to commute to and from work. <S> They're big enough to carry all of my work clothes, lunch, and water plus some extra. <S> They're also water-resistant, which is nice when I get caught in a sudden rainstorm (happens a lot in Colorado). <S> I always have a spare ziploc bag to toss my phone into, just in case. <S> My bags hook on to the edge of the rack and have an elastic strap that runs around the bottom of the bag and the "leg" of the rack. <S> I have a set of bungie cords that strap everything down tight <S> so they don't bounce loose. <S> It takes me about 30 seconds to take the bags off, and mine came with shoulder straps, which makes them easy to carry into the office. <S> Performance Bicycle has a nice selection of pannier-style bags . <A> From your description, a medium-sized handlebar bag might do the trick if you can mount one. <S> I love my Ortlieb Ultimate handlebar bag , but it's not a cheap item; here are some others . <S> FOr maximum convenience, look for something that clips onto and off of the bike quickly. <S> Most bike shops carry handlebar bags.
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I find that handlebar bags are the ultimate in convenience.
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Where to find good bicycle maintenance info? If there is a good book what would it be? I'm pretty sure I can find stuff on YouTube (any particular user?). Any blogs out there? <Q> A Bit More Than Basic Bicycle Maintenance for the Average Cyclist , at the <S> How to Fix Bikes Sheldon Brown's site has articles on many aspects of bike maintenance <S> Bicycle Tutor has <S> videos demonstrating many repair jobs Beachbike's Youtube channel has a lot of information specific to beach cruisers. <S> The videos on internally geared hubs are helpful and clear. <A> These two books came highly recommended to me, and together they cover about every bike part your bike may have. <S> (The road bike book doesn't cover "V" style brakes, since they're considered mountain bike parts). <A> I'd recommend Park Tool's Big Blue Book of Bike Repair . <S> Plenty of pictures and good explanations. <S> This book has made a number of things seem a lot less intimidating. <S> (Moved over from a duplicate question. <S> I can't vote on comments yet, or I'd just +1 to Gabe .) <A> This one is pretty good: <S> T <S> he Bicycling guide to complete bicycle maintenance & repair : for road & mountain bikes / Todd Downs. <S> ( 6th edition out soon) <S> I personally have Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance as mentioned above. <A> I use a combination of: The Haynes Bike Book which is like a standard Haynes Manual but for bikes. <S> The Complete <S> Do It Yourself <S> Bike Book by Mel Allwood <S> The Internet <S> Between them the two books tend to give me a thorough step by step breakdown of what needs to be done and what tools I might require, whilst the internet just pads this out (and can occasionally be either difficult to search or confusing with it's results). <A> This website if you've got a more specific question about which bit of your bike you want to maintain! <A> Look for courses at your local bike store. <S> In the UK Edinburgh bike coop do excellent basic and more advanced course, as do MEC in Canada - both also do women only courses. <S> Most local bike advocacy groups will do something similar, sometimes it's helpful to see how to do it. <A> If we're sticking with websites, I also like Thomas Driemeyer's site . <A> I also use Todd Downs "Bicycle Maintnenance & Repair" book as it has great pictures and really explains things well.
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The Park Tool website has instructions for most basic repair operations, and their handy bike map is great when you don't know a headset from a handlebar. Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance
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What kind of maintenance does a shimano dynamo hub need? I have a shimano dynamo hub on the front of my bike. Does it need any special maintenance, or maybe it needs just a little synthetic grease once a year, like a normal front hub? <Q> The common Shimano Dynamo hubs don't actually use sealed cartridge bearings, see the DH-3N71 and DH-3D72 techdocs. <S> Shimano dynohubs do use good seals, however, and should hopefully be maintenance-free for many thousands of miles. <S> Alistair Spence has a good <S> exploded view of an Alfine DH-S500, which is very similar to the DH-3D71. <S> He also links there to a disassembly guide <S> PDF, the original of which can be seen (minus images) in the internet archive . <S> The steps are basically the same as a standard front hub, with the caveat that it is important to be careful to avoid breaking the axle wire. <A> It uses sealed cartridge bearings <S> so there is nothing to grease. <S> The Shimano hub probably has a similar design? <A> The Shimano hub dynamo bearings on one side probably not so difficult and you can look at their drawing but on the other side it can be difficult. <S> I haven't tried to open the other side but you can check this out: http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-700163.html
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I have a Schmidt dynamo hub and it is "maintenance free".
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How can I get rid of I.T. Band pain caused by cycling? I have struggled for a while with Illiotibial Band pain or Illiotibial Band Friction Syndrome when cycling and running, here are some of the things that I have done to get rid of the pain: When it is inflammed: Cataflam (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory - NSAID ) Ice Transact patches (topical anti-inflammatory) Rest Prevention: Hamstring strectches Massage (cross friction on ITB) Strengthening of gluteus medius Stretching of gluteus medius and TFL (Tensor Fascia Latae) Foam roller Bike setup correction (moving saddle forward worked for me) There are some good resources on the Internet, here are some I have read: Cycling Problems - ITB Pain And Tightness , by Karen Doyle ITBS Help Site What have you done to get rid of ITBS? <Q> Not sure if my direct pain was related to ITBS - but this cut out a lot of pain <S> I was having: Custom Pedal Extenders . <S> I am large person and this reduced a lot of pain <S> I was getting in my inner thighs and hip. <A> According to the chiropractor I was working with, pronation in the feet can cause stress up the leg to the ITB and all the way up into the lower back. <S> I put orthotics in my regular shoes and my running shoes. <S> My bike fitter was able to put shims in my biking shoes in the cleats to help with pronation on the bike. <S> YMMV, but it was part of the solution with stretches, ice, the stick , and massage to get rid of the pain. <S> Good luck. <A> I saw a sports doctor and he performed an ITB release. <S> It was a very quick procedure peformed under local anasthetic where they partially cut the ITB, lengthening it. <S> I walked out of the doctors and was back on the bike a few weeks. <S> Since then I've had no trouble at all. <S> Surgery is mentioned on wikipedia . <S> There is more information here
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Part of the solution for me was orthotics in my shoes. I would really recommend discussing it with your doctor.
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What are some good exercises to prevent knee pain? About four or so years ago, I hurt my knee on a fairly long ride (~150km or so). It was really my own fault, as I hadn't been training regularly, and I pushed myself a bit too hard. By the time I arrived home, my left knee had swollen up and was in quite a bit of pain. I stopped riding for about a half year, and when I started up again I took things lightly and tried to train more regularly. Fast-forward to today. I am riding 20km per day, and am spinning at high cadence when I ride. I try to stretch both my knees before/after riding, but I still feel some soreness or pain when I ride. Although I haven't yet experienced anything as bad as the original injury, I'm worried that if I will get injured on the next long-distance ride that I take. What are some good exercises that I can do to prevent re-injuring my knees during future rides? Are there any particular stretches which are helpful in loosening up the knee before riding? <Q> The problem with diagnosing knee pain is there are multiple possible causes. <S> The original cause may not even be in the knee itself! <S> I have a cyclist friend whose knee seized up. <S> He went to a physiotherapist, who explained that the real problem was an extremely tight lower back. <S> The tightening back was tugging at his gluteal muscle (buttock), which in turn was tightening his hamstring - which was pulling his knee out of alignment! <S> His body was actually acting against itself, as each muscle struggled to retain its preferred position. <S> The physio pummelled out his back and glutes, he did back stretches for a few weeks, and everything relaxed. <S> I've had ITBS for almost a year, caused by a combination of incorrect seat height and an over-aggressive cycling schedule. <S> The iliotibial band is a tendon-like bit of muscle which runs down the outside of the thigh and connects the hip and knee. <S> When it tightens, it pulls at your knee-joint and rubs painfully against the bone, becoming inflamed. <S> For this problem, stretching has been surprisingly effective. <S> I stretch the IT band itself, my hamstrings, and my lower back and glutes. <S> The stretches I do are: IT band - Standing stretch . <S> Stand upright and cross one foot behind the other. <S> Then lean towards the foot that is behind the other. <S> Hold this stretch for about 15 to 20 seconds, and then repeat it 3 to 4 times on each leg. <S> Hamstring - Standing stretch . <S> Basically, try and touch your toes, although I do this with legs <S> crossed one behind the other. <S> With this one, if you let your upper body just hang loose, you will feel the stretch increase naturally after a few seconds. <S> Glutes/lower back - Seated twist . <S> This is an effective stretch for the big muscles in your buttocks. <S> Great for the lower back, and your hips. <S> Obviously, these exercises may or may not be helpful for you, depending on the exact cause of your problem. <S> Only a doctor will be able to correctly diagnose your issue. <S> But they're easy to do, safe, free, and may be helpful. <A> I did something similar a few years back... <S> I hyper-extended my knee and it was swollen and sore for a few months. <S> Never saw a doctor and continued riding once the pain went away. <S> A few months later I put a foot down and my knee popped. <S> Went to see a doctor this time and my ACL was shredded. <S> After surgery, doc said it looked like a frayed rope and had probably been torn for years. <S> Morale of the story, your knee pain could very well be something more serious. <S> To me, it sounds like mild cartilage damage. <S> After a lot of friction on the joint it starts to flare up in an attempt to protect itself. <A> I don't think that stretching is the most important thing for preventing this injury from reoccurring in this case. <S> Stretching after the exercise is certainly a good habit to keep. <S> But, as you pointed out, what caused the original injury in the first place was the 150km ride with no proper training. <S> What you have to do now is to build up the distance more slowly. <S> Maybe 20 km is still too much for now. <S> If you cycle 5 days a week, that's already 100 km a week, which is a significant training volume for beginners. <S> For now, reduce the distance to a point that you're comfortable with, i.e. no pain. <S> Then you can increase the distance every week, but no more than 10% per week. <S> If that doesn't help, go and see a doctor or physiotherapist. <A> Like ire_and_curses mentions above there are multiple causes of knee pain . <S> Solving a knee pain problem is entirely dependent on the cause. <S> Stretching, strengthening, physical therapy and surgery are all possible solutions. <S> If the cause is tightness, then stretching can help; if weakness is the cause, then strengthening the relevant muscles can help; or <S> if torn/damaged tissues, then perhaps surgery. <S> I think you have gotten some good answers, but personally I would not seek a prescription on a web forum. <S> I would strongly suggest that you see a physician and get the injury diagnosed properly. <S> The knee is a complicated joint and the wrong solution can easily make it worse . <S> In my own case through physical therapy, I was prescribed hip strengthening and targeted stretches. <S> Wrong. <S> It didn't get better, so I went to the doc who referred me to a physical therapist. <S> The therapist put me on a hip strengthening routine coupled with specific stretches and targeted use of a foam roller. <S> Much better now! <S> (According to my therapist, hip issues can often be a cause of knee pain , and in my case that's what it turned out to be.) <S> Anyway, bottom line. <S> Get it checked out. <A> I have also done some damage to my knees. <S> I have found that using a knee brace greatly helps to keep my knees working well. <S> I find that even the extra heat from the knee brace dramatically helps to keep them running smoothly. <S> I bought mine for $20 at the drug store. <S> Best bike investment per dollar that I have ever made. <A> Personally, I find that the best warmup for my knees is actually just riding. <S> Spinning very easily for 10-15 minutes, putting very little pressure on the pedals works far better than any stretching or exercise I've done before getting on the bike.
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When I started experiencing knee pain several years ago, I decided to do knee strengthening exercises + some stretching. The most important thing is to get the cause of the pain diagnosed so you can treat it properly. Glutes/lower back - Supine spinal twist .
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Lock for extremely frequent use Are there lock products out there specifically designed for easy handling when locked unlocked dozens of times a day? I'm using a normal, chain-based lock at the moment and I'm annoyed because I'm doing constant slight damage to the frame when removing the lock from the bicycle I need to carry a key at all times, fumble it from my pocket when it's time to go (often in a thankless, noisy, roadside environment), and fumble the lock back onto the bicycle Are there any solutions out there that make frequent use as painless, and still as secure, as possible? I'm thinking about something that works like a remote-controlled car door lock. It should, however, still be possible to attach the bike to an object to prevent it from getting carried away. Related: best bike lock <Q> For frequent use, I think it is hard to beat a lock that is built into the bike, e.g. the Axa Defender that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bake stand. <S> It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you. <A> I find that a lock that you can wear across your chest like a bandolier is most convenient for carrying around. <S> There are a number of chain locks around in this length that have a plastic tube over the chain to prevent scratches. <A> I'd recommend kryptonite. <S> The Evolution Mini is used by a number of my friends (messengers) and they use it many times in a day. <S> Keeps things secure and it's small. <S> If you want a bit more flexibility in what you can attach to then go for a larger sized one. <S> https://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/list.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1000 <A> A simple solution to part of your question -- <S> that of scratching up your bike while removing the chain: I used to have a chain lock with a plastic sleeve, to prevent just this. <S> You could probably find a similar sleeve in any hardware store, just use some inexpensive transparent tubing. <A> After working as a Courier in Toronto for a few years (and some other cities), I have found that the best lock (in my experience) has been something of good heft and quality from Master Lock & a length of thick chain from the hardware long enough to wrap around your waist while ridding. <S> (they make some nice steal & brass ones with combinations insted of keys if your not to keen on a key with the jonas of being pretty corrosion/oxidation resistant). <S> If its long enough to wrap around your waist like a belt, its usually long enough to loop around your frame, wheel set, and something sturdy to anchor on. <S> Your bike won't be going anywhere & it will only set you back about $15
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A trick that couriers use around my area is to carry the key on a rubber band around their wrist - no more fumbling around in the pockets for a key.
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