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How to best determine if a bike will fit without riding it I would like to get a Surly Cross-Check but the local bike shop doesn't stock them. They have suggested a 56cm, but I am concerned about the top tube length (I am more legs than torso). Are there proven ways to figure out whether a bike fits other than riding it? <Q> The best answer to your question is simply "no." <S> Unless you've ridden the exact geometry before, there's no great way to know if your body will enjoy the fit. <S> Sure, there are MANY adjustments you can do to any bike to get it close, but nothing replaces taking the bike out for 20 miles to find out how your body will respond. <S> Now, with that said, if you haven't been riding a bike on a regular basis and only plan on riding this a limited amount of time, a good fitter could make a reasonable judgment call without any serious problems occurring later. <S> The bike can be tuned to your needs, as long as the general size is correct. <A> An approach that can give you some confidence is to measure your existing bike(s) along the critical dimensions to see how they compare. <S> Basically, you can get a certain amount of adjustment in "reach", the distance between your saddle and the handlebars by adjusting the saddle on the rails, and the stem you've got, but the range of variability is quite small. <S> Seat posts can be extended through quite a significant range, and you can generally play around with the rise on the stem, as well as the spacers on the steerer to get a lot of vertical adjustment. <S> So, download your specifications for the cross-check <S> and we find that the top tube has an effective length of 570mm. <A> Many bike shops do a 'fit' session. <S> Maybe more common for roadies but still useful for any rider. <S> They'll measure you, watch you ride (video probably) and then come up with measurements that you'll be most comfortable on. <S> Those measurements can be matched up against the bike. <S> My LBS charges $75 <S> but I've seen places charge up to $300. <A> Two resources I know of that might help (or, possibly, cause more confusion): <S> WrenchScience fit system. <S> You have to sign up for account to get access to it Sizining & fitting spreadsheet on WW
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Go out and measure the top tube of your current bike (or a bike you are comfortable riding) and if it is close to this, then you are good to go. To my mind (and apparently also to the mind of the late, great Sheldon Brown ) the most important dimension to consider is the top tube length.
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700 wheels on bike made for 27" wheels I just bought an older road bike with 27" wheels. I am curious if I can mount 700 wheels (typical road size) on it. Has anyone ever done this? The main reason I am interested in doing this is so that I can have more tire selection. I like the body positioning on my road bike but since I live in a rural area I do a fair bit of biking on gravel/dirt roads and pathways. <Q> In a general sense, the important considerations you must make stem from the difference between a 700c wheel and a 27" wheel. <S> If we look at a more precise measurement than the common nomenclature, the bead seat diameter, the difference is more obvious: <S> 700c wheel: 622mm BSD <S> 27" wheel: 630mm BSD <S> This means that the former is 8mm shorter in diameter than the latter, and when you mount a 700c wheel to a bicycle with brakes set for a 27" wheel, they will be mis-aligned by 4mm (a significant amount). <S> In the case that you can't, you will be able to replace them with brakes designed to have a longer 'reach'. <A> You will also need to find 700 wheels that will have the correct number of rear cogs for your existing derailleur system, or get ready to upgrade that. <S> So, it can be an inexpensive change, or costly depending on your bike and what rims you can find. <S> A less expensive way out, is to ask your LBS if they can order tires, or just purchase tires off the internet stores. <S> There is a much larger selection at places like: <S> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/630.html <S> Take a look at that first tire the cross tera - if you go off road quit a bit, that would be more like a XC tire. <S> Otherwise an extremely good choice as well is the Schwalbe Marathon - they are made for 700 rims as well and are an extremely good tire. <S> Whatever your decision, best of luck to you. <A> True the brakes may be an issue. <S> The other problem you will encounter is different spacing on the hubs. <S> Usually you can spread the fork and frame to fit. <S> Borrow some 700s from a friend or stop by your LBS to test fit a set of wheels. <S> You'll know very quickly that way. <A> I am just about to do this myself. <S> Re-use the old hubs to save your sanity. <S> This may involve replacing the spokesif they're not compatible with the new rim. <S> A new set of front and rear brakes will run you about $70.You should replace the brakes if they are the Diacompe-typevintage from the 70's or 80's. <S> They are too weak by today's standards. <S> Tecktro makes a great dual pivot design that's a great replacement.
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Yes it can be done, but more than likely you will need to buy new brakes as well unless yours will adjust to the 700 wheels. Yes, this has been done and is very often done for the exact reason you mentioned: far greater tire selection. Depending on what type and variety brakes you have, you may or may not be able to reposition the brake pads correctly.
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How to fix new chain that switches gears when pedaling backwards I just recently replaced a chain that got incredibly beat up in the winter (it was rusted, and practically stiff when I removed it.) I removed links from the new chain to match the length of the previous chain. The previous chain was the manufacturer installed stock chain. It is a 3*8 - 24 speed configuration. I usually leave the front derailleur on 3, and make all adjustments on the rear. If my bike is on the 4th cog or larger (so 4,3,2,1), the chain will "slip down" to the smaller cog if I pedal backwards. So for example, if I am in 3x4, and I pedal backwards, the chain slips to 3x5. It corrects itself as soon as I start pedaling forward. If I try to pedal backwards any farther though, the chain just wraps around on itself and falls off. The bigger the rear cog (for instance 3x1 or 3x2) - the slower I need to pedal for it to slip. All comments & answers are much appreciated :) <Q> I consider it standard practice to replace the rear cogs at the same time as buying a new chain. <S> If you don't the rear cog's teeth start to look like shark fins after a while and your chain will "climb". <S> Esp. <S> when pedaling backwards. <A> There are a few problems that could cause your chain to de-rail when pedaling backwards: dirty/stuck Jockey wheels <S> dirty/stuck link <S> stretch on the derailleur cable (normal for new bikes or new cables) <S> so either the front or rear derailleur is now a touch out of adjustment and causing it to derail(the LBS <S> you purchased it from <S> should adjust it for free). <S> Worn chainring or rear cogs <S> Lastly, if you take care of all those problems, some chains are just a bit temper mental. <S> Try removing one link to increase your tension and see if that helps. <A> Seconding JDV... <S> I replace chain, cogs and sprockets as a set. <S> These parts mesh together by design. <S> Using parts with different wear patterns accelerates wear on the new parts. <A> To dissent slightly... <S> It's common practice for mechanics and bike-shop folks to recommend this... <S> It does result in selling more parts... <S> However, if your chain is all rusted up as a result of sitting out and not as a result of running it in that condition... <S> The cogs and chainrings might be fine. <S> The skipping while backpedaling might well be due to similarly gunked-up derailleurs. <S> Before springing for a bunch of new parts, I would take everything off. <S> Both DRs, chain, etc. <S> Clean and lubricate everything. <S> I spray the DRs down with WD-40 and let 'em soak for a bit, then attack 'em with a toothbrush and the wire wheel on my Dremel to get off any caked-on lube and road grit. <S> Then just wash 'em in hot soapy water and re-lubricate. <S> I restore old bikes for re-sale, and I've done dozens this way with only a chain replacement and they shift perfectly before I let them go. <A> You state that you adjust rear while front is on the 3 (largest) chainring. <S> That's what causes your problem. <S> The derailleurs and the chain are not supporting this combination of gears. <S> All adjustments of rear are basically made while front is on the 1 (smallest) chainring. <S> Other problem that may be in your case <S> (but usually it will not cause your issue) is that you cut new chain to match the length of the old one, but your old chain is stretched <S> therefore it's too long. <S> When putting new chain, it measured by number of links rather than overall length. <S> As it's hard to count the links, there are other ways to check the length needed like this one (youtube) .
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Edit: worn cogs, even if they don't cause immediate problems, will stretch your chain causing it to wear out quickly. Make sure the idlers are free-spinning and unworn on the rear one.
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How do I keep my seat from tilting back? When I first got this bike, I got the saddle adjusted almost perfectly. Recently it slipped back (so that the nose sticks up). I loosened the bolt under the saddle, tilted the saddle back into the proper position, tightened the bolt up, and within a week the nose had tilted back up. Did the same thing again, but cranked the bolt even tighter; still happened. I noticed that there's visible "scarring" or scraping on the top of the seat tube where the clamp that holds the saddle (not sure the proper term for those pieces) grabs onto the tube. This is a 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker (touring style bike; equipped like a commuter) with the stock seatpost (pretty sure it's 27.2mm. No real branding on the seat post). I'm a fairly heavy rider (near 250 pounds) and I do sometimes ride over some pretty rough stuff, so I suspect that might be part of the problem. So far I'm seeing maybe 3 options: Get a hex tool with more leverage and tighten that thing down even more Some sort of super glue or epoxy (or maybe just a bit of old innertube?) to keep the seatpost from sliding back Replace the seatpost (and clamp assembly, of course). Except I don't know what to replace it with that wouldn't just get the same problem again... Update : Pics: (sorry, phone pics, but I think they're workable) First: overall picture, very careful to take the picture close to level. Top tube has just a teensy amount of slant, almost level. Closer in (you can see some of the scarring on the seatpost): Attempt at closer-in picture of scarring after disassembly, but can't focus close with this camera: Here's the saddle itself, which has no bending, no visible damage to the rails, etc.: Here's the actual pieces of the "clamp". On the right is the bottom piece that sits on top of the seatpost and under the seat rails, there's matching "scarring" at the points that touch the seatpost. On the left is the top piece that goes on top of the rails. On top is the bolt that goes through everything from the bottom (with a curved sort of washer thing that fits into a matching curved area on the seatpost). The opposite side of the "bottom piece" basically looks just like the visible side of the "top piece", and the opposite side of the "top piece" is boring. Update 2 : Used a hex tool with a longer arm (more leverage), removed the bolt, greased it up and tightened it as much as possible, not worrying about damaging the already damaged seatpost further. The grease helps to allow a bit more tightening. This held up for a couple months but eventually seat started sliding back again. Final solution : Thomson Elite seatpost , specifically the shorter model with a setback in silver ordered through my LBS. (they had black in stock but decided I was willing to wait an extra week to get silver) It's a two-bolt design that seems to be the top-end for seatposts that don't slip. I considered a Salsa two-bolt seatpost that was a less expensive, but it didn't seem to be as heavy-duty. I also considered a Nitto S-83 which is a two-bolt seatpost about the same price as the Thomson and has more of the classic touring look to it, but the Thomson seemed to be a bit better engineered and I like the markings on the Thomson that help you keep the same adjustment. <Q> The problem is that there is only one bolt holding the seat at the angle you want. <S> Put enough torque on the back of the saddle and can overcome the friction that's holding the seat in place. <S> A few options: Tighten up that bolt as much as you dare (but you've already tried that). <S> Increase the friction between the seat post and the bottom of the seat clamp -- either scuff it up or use some carbon assembly paste (ask your LBS, I've used it to keep my seat post from sliding down). <S> Switch to a seat post that uses a two-bolt design to hold the seat in place. <S> This is what my current and previous bikes used, one bolt pulls the nose down and the other tilt the seat back. <S> Get enough tension on the two and your seat stays right where you want it to. <A> I also have a 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker with the same seat post and the same problem. <S> I'm also 100lbs lighter. <S> I think the seat post is a terrible design and one of the cheaper parts that came with the bike. <S> I use a Thompson Elite seat post on my mountain bike which has two bolts that prevent the slipping problem. <S> It also has markings on the seat clamp so that you can put the seat back to it's known angle after taking it off and reinstalling it. <A> As Jared suggested you should check the seat hasn't shifted. <S> Also it could be an idea to check that the "grating" that causes the friction has good grip before you start turning it. <S> Loosen the bolt, adjust saddle, tighten it a little and try turn it a little bit. <S> Then tighten. <S> Otherwise it is probably time for a new saddle... <A> Old thread.. <S> But here's how I fixed it on my bike... <S> Cut an old inner tube into strips that wrap around the rails. <S> Wrap them around the rails and tighten down. <S> It should last virtually forever this way and won't damage the rails like sandpaper will. <S> It might also slightly lower vibrations in your seat. <A> Found this helpful idea in another forum, it helped me <S> so I'm passing it along. <S> Get some sandpaper, glue two strips back to back <S> so both sides are rough. <S> Wrap around the rails and tighten down. <S> Seems to work for me ! <S> Good Luck
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I was able to tighten the single bolt enough to prevent the seat from sliding back. If it wasn't getting good grip, it may shift a few degrees. If the seatpost is aluminum don't force it.
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Is a 3-bike rack needed for two bikes? I've been looking into getting a trunk-mounted bike rack for two bikes. However, I've heard a few people say that I actually need a 3-bike rack because there isn't really enough space on a 2-bike rack for two bikes. Is this true? If so, why do 2-bike racks even exist? Does it just depend on the brand? 3-bike rack models are a bit more expensive than their 2-bike counterparts, and I don't plan on ever transporting 3 bikes, so I'd rather not buy a 3-bike rack if I don't have to. <Q> It depends on how... scratch averse <S> you are for your bikes. <S> A 4 bike trailer hitch rack by Thule can get 4 bikes on it. <S> If you want to ensure that there is never any pedal to frame contact, then you can get 2 bikes on it. <S> In general with some wiggling and possibly removing a wheel or two, you can always get as many bikes as advertised on a given rack. <S> Just be aware that there will be some rubbing as you fiddle with the bikes to get them on. <A> I think it depends on the type of bikes you'll be loading onto the rack. <S> I have a 4-bike hitch-mounted rack ( similar to this rack ). <S> My wife's cruiser is just large enough that it takes some attention to position when I load the next bike to get them all to fit. <S> What I've run into is that the handlebars of smaller bikes tend to get in the way of the seatpost of the next bike (I load each bike facing the opposite way). <S> In my case, her brake lever likes to get caught on my rack, so it takes some practice to get around these problems. <S> If you can, I would try purchasing a 2-bike mount from a place that will let you return it, take it home and try it out. <A> It depends on the bike rack and the geometry of your bikes. <S> Typically, from what I've seen, if it says it can hold two, then your fine. <S> I typically recommend the Thule T2 . <S> It's a great rack and is super easy to use; I never worry about the bikes when they're on it. <A> I had one of these: With a bit of fiddling I can get 3 adult bikes on there. <S> Depending on the bikes I sometimes have to alternate the direction they face and sometimes not. <S> To preserve the paint from scratches you can buy foam pads to insert between the bikes, plus I've found that either wrapping the pedals in old teatowels or removing them completely can make life easier. <S> You should be able to get two bikes on a two bike rack with a bit of manoeuvring (it may be quite straightforward), but if you can afford it a three bike rack might be easier to use and gives you more leeway in the future. <S> I found that for peace of mind I needed to add two extra straps to the bottom of the rack to secure the bottoms of the bikes and stop the whole lot from bouncing away from the car when you hit a bump (this was probably unnecessary but it made me feel better).
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If it can hold both bikes, you're good to go, and if not, you can take it back and purchase a larger rack.
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Bike tires need air every ride...is this normal? I ride my bike maybe once a week at most. I need to add air to the tires every time to bring it up to the right pressure. (I ride a mountain bike and I put about 45 - 50 PSI's into the tires.) Is this normal? <Q> If you're putting in 5 or maybe even 10 PSI every week, that's not too much out of line; it's normal for tires to lose a little bit of pressure over time. <S> If your tires are sinking down to much more than that, you may have slow leaks. <S> If both tires are decreasing by the same amount, perhaps you have older tubes that need replacing. <S> If one tire is doing this but not the other, you may have a very slow leak. <S> Try replacing the tube and see if that fixes the problem. <A> Latex tubes? <S> The posh 'extra comfy', low-rolling resistance 'latex' tubes that cost twice that of normal tubes can deflate quicker than is desirable. <S> Valves can also be a problem, typically from getting chalk dust particles inside the valve innards. <S> This can be the case with both valve types, however, with Presta you can mitigate against this by ensuring the valves are done up tight. <S> Remember that rubber perishes when in contact with the elements, to minimise the chance of this <S> make sure the valve caps are present. <S> This puncture may not necessarily be visible to the naked eye, holes can be a 'normal' part of the manufacturing process or they can be introduced around the valve seat. <S> Different tyres deflate over time at different rates. <S> This is proportional to the tyre volume, e.g. a 20" x 1.5" tyre will deflate quicker than a 26" x 2.3" tyre. <S> 5-10 PSI is borderline acceptable, even if accounting for air lost connecting up your track pump. <S> You should only need to attend to tyre pressure every fortnight. <A> High-pressure,low-volume tires like typical roadster tires often need to be checked daily. <S> They might only need a few pounds pressure to bring up to normal, but it's best to check. <S> Lower-pressure higher-volume tires like typical MTB tires seem more forgiving, but in maintaining our department fleet of 25 patrol bikes, I find a minimum of weekly checking is necessary. <S> It's next to impossible to tell without actually putting a gauge on the tire; the thing may feel quite firm and still be 20 pounds under pressure.
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As noted, if one tyre deflates quicker than the other then it is likely that you have a slow puncture.
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Best chain lubricant for commuter/utility bikes? What's the best chain lubricant for a bike used for riding in normal(ish) clothes, year-round? I've been using Tri-Flow, but that tends to leave black greasy/dirty stains on pants, shoes, etc. I've heard of melting solid parafin, but that seems too labor-intensive. Most important: not picking up dirt; not staining anything that touches the chain. (yes, I know of various ways to keep clothes away from the chain, but none are perfect) Must also work in a wide temp range and wet conditions. For my area, I'll ride in temps from 30F (-1C) to 106F (41C). With heavy rains in winter. Just this last week I've ridden in drizzle, 55F (13C), and 107F (42C)… Would be nice if it was long-lasting… <Q> Wax lubricant does not work well when riding in wet conditions because a lot more road grime gets kicked up into the drive train and the wax tends to do the opposite of what is advertised. <S> Your best bet is to get a chain protector to keep your clothes and your chain separated. <A> I prefer White Lightning. <S> The major proviso is that you must shake it thoroughly before application. <S> It's wax-based, so it generally picks up less dirt than most of the alternatives. <S> You want to wash the "new chain goop" out before the first application, but after that don't normally need to clean the chain at all -- just add more lube every few weeks (or few hundred miles...) <S> The only thing I've used that is (or was) better was pure Teflon -- years ago, you could get tubes of pure DuPont Teflon (two varieties, one for bearings, one for chains). <S> It was difficult to get the chain thoroughly lubed initially (you basically had to put a tiny droplet at the edge of each roller <S> , then "massage" it in with your fingers), but once you did, it lasted nearly forever. <S> Unfortunately, at least AFAIK, this is no longer made -- but if you happen to run across some for sale, it's well worth grabbing some. <S> In case you care, here's what they look like: <S> This is the bearing grease. <S> If memory serves, the chain lube was printed in red instead of blue (and said "chain" instead of "bearing", of course). <A> I find automatic transmission fluid (aka "the red stuff") works really well. <S> It's pretty thin, so it gets into all the places it needs to go, and it doesn't seem to attract dirt/dust that much. <S> Oh, and you can get a quart of it for four bucks! <A> Have you considered trying something with a different application method? <S> Hosing your chain down with Tri-Flow works, but there is a lot of excess to go along with that. <S> This summer, I switched from T9 to using motor oil on my chains, and it seems to work well in all the areas you discussed. <S> I have heard a lot of people don't like using motor oil, but it hasn't let me down yet. <S> It keeps the chains quiet and happy on both my bikes, even in the worst of rain (puddles up to the bottom bracket). <S> I'm in a fairly cold environment (80F to 20F) <S> so I've been using 30 weight oil, but any weight should work. <S> I use an oil can with a hand pump (similar to this one ), which makes it easy to apply one drop per roller. <S> After giving the drive train a good spit (keeping the chain moving for a minute or two), you can wipe any excess off the plates. <S> This allows you to put on just enough lube, without creating a dirt trap, or having lube flinging off onto clothing. <S> It may sound boring to oil the chain in this way, but after a few runs at it, it becomes quite relaxing. <S> Still is takes ~5 minutes to lube it up, though. <A> I'm a big fan of Pro Gold. <S> Year round, all weather. <S> Road bike. <S> Commuter bike. <S> http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm <S> Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment. <S> So think of lubricating metal in adverse conditions. <S> Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally. <S> It's available online though. <A> It's the bike advocate's WD-40. <S> Fairly lightweight penetrating dry lube. <S> It's a good balance of most traits - it goes on clean, is fairly long lasting for being as lightweight as it is, doesn't build up (quickly), and it's very easy to apply if you get the aerosol version. <S> I use it for road and mtb unless I'm riding in mucky conditions. <S> It's also a good lube for squeaks and creaks, sticky shifters, derailleur pivots, etc. <S> Get a can <S> and it'll last you nearly forever.
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Tri-Flow works the best. Any wax or lubricant that contains wax is only somewhat useful on a brand new chain, or a chain that has been thoroughly cleaned. If you've never tried Boeshield's T-9, I highly recommend it. You aren't going to find a chain that doesn't leave stains on your clothes.
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How to choose a bicycle seat I'll need a new saddle for my bike soon. I use it mainly for short commutes (30 minutes). About once a year I go touring for a few days, up 8 hours in the saddle. My current saddle just came with the bike. I see there are a lot of different saddle types available now, from the ultra thin, to the wide & comfy to the downright fruity .I associate the thin saddles with racers, but thats the limit of my knowledge. When choosing a new saddle, should I choose based on my body frame or my cycling type (i.e. get one for short commutes, one for touring)? <Q> The wrong saddle can lead to numbness and pain in the crotch area, and in the long run serious health issues. <S> The right saddle for you should fit comfortably regardless of what type of riding you do and will depend mainly on the width of your pelvic. <S> Ideally you should get a professional fit . <S> If one is not available to you, you should try a few saddles of different sizes to determine what fits you before you purchase. <A> The only rough rule that applies is that the more you ride, the narrower and harder saddle you need. <S> Beyond that it's very individual and there seem to be be no shortcuts <S> - you need to go through a few saddles. <S> Also, a saddle that fits on one bike may not be the best fit on another bike, due to differences in position. <A> My LBS lets you use a trial saddle for a week. <S> That's a pretty good way to get an idea. <S> You put a deposit down, take the saddle home and ride as much as you can. <S> It took me a few tries to find the right one. <S> One of the ones I rejected I liked a lot the first two rides but the third started reveal lack of fit. <S> If you do different kinds of riding (commuting, touring, etc.) <S> it might be overkill to get a saddle for each. <S> If it works for long touring, it should work for a short commute. <A> Another suggestion I've heard is that you should invest in a leather saddle such as a Brooks, and it will over time mould itself to fit your sit bones. <S> A Brooks B17 was the suggestion (if I recall correctly), as you can get one for about £50. <A> There are a couple of factors that at least help you narrow your search. <S> Sit-bone width. <S> You can measure this at home , and lots of shops have special benches for measuring this, but the saddle should support you directly under your sit-bones (ischial tuberosities). <S> Some manufacturers today produce a given saddle model in a number of widths to accommodate this. <S> Riding position. <S> If you're sitting more upright, you'll be sitting on a wider part of your sit-bones. <S> Some manufacturers have different lines of saddles to suit different riding styles. <A> As others state, you often have to try a lot of saddles to find one which is right for you . <S> One way to do this is to buy a few recommended ones from eBay or similar second hand shopping site. <S> If they look a bit scruffy it doesn't matter. <S> If they don't work for you, resell on eBay, hopefully without losing much money besides postage. <S> Once you have one which works for you consider buying new or, for the environmentally-conscious, nearly-new.
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Choosing a saddle that fits you is very important. But you do need one that is going to work for your longest activity. At best you can try to get an arrangement with your local bike shop where if a saddle doesn't fit you, you can return it at a markdown.
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Why are tubeless tyres popular in mountain biking? I've noticed that a lot of people use or promote tubeless tyres for mountain biking. Why is this? It seems a lot of hassle to get a special rim conversion kit and goop to put in the tyre. As far as I can see it still makes a lot of sense to carry a tube in case it all goes wrong out on the trail any way. <Q> Although this is purely anecdotal, I know from my own experience mountain biking that most of my flats were from so-called "pinch flats" (where the tube is pierced by pinching or friction with the tire/rim rather than piercing by an external object). <S> This was highly annoying. <S> After having switched to tubeless some years ago, I've not yet had a single flat. <A> Tubless tires let you run less pressure than a tubed tire can. <S> They're also less prone to flats. <A> One of the main adavantages is reducing flats. <S> I don't think it's such a hassle converting rims to tubeless. <S> I just converted mine with this kit: http://www.sincamaras.com/INGLES/indexenglish.HTM . <S> I know there are several other on the market but my local bike shop recommended me this one. <S> I decided to install it because in my area, this winter, a lot of vegetation has been cut around the trails and everyone is having lots of flats due to the spikes on the ground. <S> With the sealant liquid I hope to hugely reduce the number of flats I got last months. <S> 9th July 2012 update: After almost a year and a half with this system <S> I can say I just got one flat <S> and it didn't affect my ride <S> , I found it later at home. <S> Another important advantage of removing the tubes is making wheels lighter. <A> They are especially useful in areas that have a lot of thorns. <S> I agree with you that tubeless conversion are a hassle, however you do get tubeless specific rims that don't require a conversion (e.g. UST by Mavic, <S> TNT by Geax or TLR by Bontrager) <S> that simply things tremendously. <A> I prefer the feel of tubeless tires.
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Using the same tire, there is less rolling resistance by removing the tube. And, obviously, without a tube to get pinched, there's no way to get a "pinch flat".
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What is must-have gear for mountain biking? All types of biking, mountain biking in particular: what are some must have items/gear to keep with oneself on mountain biking trips? I'm think of items such as extra inner tube, bike pump, etc...What products or items do you use? Specifics would be helpful, thanks! <Q> For long rides of 1-3 hours, I carry the following: Tube + mini pump (CO^2 if you want, tire leavers for new or difficult tires) <S> Mini tool with allen keys, spoke key and a chain tool Water Snack <S> For longer trips, you'll want to consider panniers (carry bags) and a hydration pack so you'll be able to carry the load more effectively. <S> In general, advice on backpacking trips should apply. <A> Tyre levers <S> Cable ties <S> Duct tape Tyre boot material <S> Derailleur hanger for your bike Mobile phone Cash and/or credit card Food and water <S> (depending on length) <S> There are also a few small things that I normally take, that are necessary on long/remote rides: <S> SRAM powerlink Chainring bolt <S> Cleat bolt <S> Whistle <S> If you are riding with a partner you can share the spares between you. <A> I typically ride with the following list - some of it I take out depending on the ride and how well travelled the trails are: water cliff bars/granola bars <S> extra tube(s) <S> tire irons <S> patch kit <S> mini pump <S> multi tool pocket knife butterfly bandage <S> ace bandage <S> zip ties <S> light <A> I needed one once. <S> Also helped someone else out once. <A> For every ride I take: A multitool with allen keys and a chain tool Spare tubes (at least 2) <S> Tyre Levers <S> Pump Instant Puncture Patches <S> (mine are from Park Tools). <S> I'd always use my spare tubes first though Plenty of water/energy drink <S> Unless I know the area very well I'll also have relevant maps and a compass, and my GPS. <S> First aid kit (geared towards cuts/bruises and breaks/dislocations) <S> Whistle Spare batteries for anything that needs them Waterproof jacket and, in cold seasons, warm clothes <S> A headtorch <S> if there's any chance that it'll get dark while I'm out <A> Definitely a chain tool. <S> And make sure it's a decent one and that you know how to use it. <S> This, more than any other tool has saved me from a long walk home while I've been out riding the trails. <S> With one you're on your way in 5-10 minutes. <S> Without one you're walking or, if you're lucky, rolling downhill. <S> It's also a really good idea to carry either a headlamp of have a light fitted on your bike if you're riding in the evening. <S> If you get lost or have a breakdown and spend more time than you planned you'll be glad you have this one as well. <A> I ride large group rides in France. <S> A small kit should be the minimum. <S> Riding partner took a bad ride over the handle bars. <S> He broke his shoulder. <S> One arm sling cloth, an Ace bandage, geo coordinates from my Garmin, and a simple phone call to my wife did the trick. <S> She was able to come to within 100 meters of the fall to pick him up. <S> Each of those items made it possible for a quick extraction. <S> Fossdog
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I would take the following on a ride (mtb): Pump Tube Puncture repair kit Multitool If I'm going somewhere remote, or for a day ride, I also take: Food (more than I will need, and some energy bars) Basic tools are great, but I need to use my First Aid kit more than my bike repair kit. My phone, keys, and wallet The lists are missing a chain tool.
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Where is the best place to carry water (back or bike)? Where do you prefer to carry your water? I find when I am mountain biking I prefer to carry my water in a hydration pack on my back (easier to rock the bike). When road biking on flat ground I prefer to have it on the bike. Where do you keep your water to optimize speed/agility/enjoyment? Edit: It seems to me that road bikers never use camelbacks. Is there a reason for this? <Q> Best? <S> Doesn't seem like there's any one right answer. <S> Pros for carrying on bike: <S> Weight is on the bike, not you <S> Doesn't make your back all sweaty <S> No adjustments necessary <S> Generally easier to clean Easier to choose alternate beverage options (with the right bottle) Easier <S> to just always have a water bottle on the bike (one less thing to worry about remembering to bring) <S> Pros for carrying in a hydration pack <S> : Easier to drink from (so you drink more often in little sips) <S> Can drink without waiting for smooth riding (don't necessarily need to remove a hand from the handlebars) <S> Less likely to pick up dirt (cleaner; but see comment about flip-top for bottles) <S> Seems like the kind of cycling you're doing makes a big difference. <S> Mountain biking has more dirt and more rough terrain where your water bottle nozzle could pick up trail dirt and be hard to reach down and grab to drink from. <S> Road biking tends to have plenty of smooth pavement allowing for drinking from a bottle and not as much dirt to worry about. <S> I mostly ride on the road and generally use a water bottle (or two or three; or a water bottle and a coffee travel mug), but if I'm going for a long ride (especially in hot weather), I'll use the hydration pack (and probably have a bottle in all 3 cages, maybe with juice or something like that in one) just to be sure I keep well-hydrated. <A> The core of this question seems to be the following: <S> Where do you keep your water to optimize speed/agility/enjoyment? <S> Disclaimer: I've never had a Camelbak, but I do drink water! <S> Speed : If you mean speed of access, keeping water in a bladder is obviously the winner. <S> If you're concerned with aerodynamics, I'd think the answer is a toss-up. <S> Agility : <S> Water higher up on your back will make the bike a little more top-heavy. <S> I know that carrying a half-gallon of milk in a backpack throws me off, particularly on a road bike. <S> Enjoyment : It depends what you mean by enjoyment. <S> For a short ride, having something on my back isn't a big deal, unless the day is very hot indeed. <A> Judging by the price, this water bottle holder must be the best option. <A> I prefer it on my back in a hydration bladder, that way, it is easily accessible and out of my way. <S> Regardless of the type of biking I am doing... <A> For MTB <S> The camelbak is very nice, since it is cleaner, and easier to drink. <S> But I prefer to fill it with only water because it is harder to clean. <S> So I take a bottle with sportdrink to get some sugar on longer trips. <S> For the road <S> So I also take my Camelbak with me. <S> Conclusion <S> On longer trips (3 hours or more) I take bottles of sportdrink and a Camelbak with water, both on my MTB and on my road bike. <A> I have a Camelbak Razor which I do use for road cycling. <S> However, I am selective about when I use it. <S> In general, it does not have detrimental effects on agility, but no doubt somewhat on aerodynamics. <S> For rides less than 4 hours, I go with water bottles in the bottle cages. <S> For longer rides, especially in remote areas where I won't have easy access for refilling water bottles, I've found the Razor to be quite useful. <S> If riding in generally "civilized" areas, I tend to just go with the water bottles. <A> I decided on a compromise I was looking for water after the ride that wasn't warm and had a powder or energy thing in it to replenish <S> so I put a bottle in the camelpak <S> so it was kept cold by the condensating ice and the energy supplements in another pocket
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Bottles are good, but on longer trips I like to have some extra water with me.
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Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube I have an old steel frame (Columbus Number 2 I think) that has the seat post (Suntour Superbe Pro - see, I said it was old!) rusted in. I have tried lots of WD-40 but it will not budge. Any tips on how I can get it out without having to cut the frame up? <Q> Before you take any more forceful measures, it may be a good idea to think a little about chemistry: <S> 'Rust' is typically the name put on any type of corrosion, but technically & specifically, it is the corrosion of iron (or steel) to form iron-oxides. <S> Although your bicycle is most definitely steel, your seatpost is not -- it's aluminum-alloy, which does not 'rust', but definitely corrodes (creating aluminum oxide). <S> WD-40 is a penetrating oil which is designed to, amongst other things, break up iron-oxides. <S> However, it is pretty much useless against aluminum-oxides, especially when they have already corroded & bonded. <S> Ammonia, however, is spectacularly good at eliminating aluminum-oxides. <S> It may just be all you need! <A> This is a tough one. <S> It's not impossible <S> but you really need mechanical advantage. <S> If you can clamp the seatpost, you will get the best chance at freeing this. <S> You will probably damage <S> /lose the seatpost with this method. <S> Make sure the seatpost is free ofgrease and oil on the outside. <S> Turn the frame upside down and clampthe seatpost into a bench vise. <S> Spray WD-40 into the seattube fromthe bottom bracket opening. <S> It will probably be dripping rusty coloredoil out the top of the seat tube (which is now facing the floor - you might want to put something to catch the oil under there.). <S> Carefully hold the head tube and therear stays and try to rotate theframe on the post. <S> Work it slowly and carefully beingsure not to bend the stays! <S> * <S> Make sure the seat post is notrotating in the vise (if so, clamptighter) <S> This process can take some time. <S> You will need patience and lots of WD-40. <S> Eventually, the post will rotate in the seat tube and you will be able to work it out. <S> * <S> The trick is knowing how much force to apply. <S> Sometimes you need more than you think and sometimes you apply more than you need (which results in unwanted damage). <S> This difference comes with experience. <S> Oh and also: grease the new seatpost <S> well before you put it back in - you'll appreciate it later. <A> You should check out the 15 Way To Unstick a Seatpost by Sheldon "Unggggghhh!" <S> Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html <A> Untested and at-your-own-risk, but this is what I would try: <S> Soak the rusted join with WD-40 from above and below <S> (ie. flip the frame and spray down the seat tube). <S> Let it sit for a few hours or overnight. <S> Secure the frame against something solid, like a heavy workbench (not a repair stand!). <S> Put an old saddle you don't care much about on the seat post. <S> Hit the side of the saddle's nose with a hammer or mallet. <S> Use short, hard taps -- using wild swings <S> you're liable to hurt yourself or the frame. <S> The idea is to use the torque of the saddle to break the bond between the post and the frame. <S> You don't need to move the post much. <S> If the post moves, then you should be able to work it loose without the hammer. <S> If it doesn't, then worst case you've destroyed an old saddle. <A> Cut the top off of the tube then carefully use a hacksaw blade inside the seat post to cut toward the seat tube. <S> A handle for a hacksaw blade works or just wrap the plain blade with a bit of tape to make a handle. <S> You should then be able to free the old seat post. <S> Or does the seat post extend way down into the frame? <S> Even then this should help as the WD-40 will get a better chance to reach the lower parts. <A> At the non-profit workshop, where I volunteer, we sometimes ream out the old Seatpost enough to stick in another, smaller-diameter Seatpost. <S> Especially if you don't care too much about aestetics and the seized seatpost reaches deep into the frame(at <S> least 8-10cm, preferably more) <S> this might be a viable option to just make the bike rideable again. <A> I had this problem with a very stubborn seat post (turns out there was a wedge in it to keep the post in). <S> I would only try this after WD40 has failed. <S> Disclaimer: this may damage your bike <A> there is aerosol spray available at most hardware stores called PB Blaster <S> it is much more effective when dealing with rust than WD=40 <A> Try put your seatpost / saddle on the vise ( reverse the bike ) then rotate the frame for pulling out the seatpost, put WD-40 or other lubricant for before you do it....
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If it is less, you might be able to saw a slice out of the old seatpost(would have to be all the way into the downtube of the frame) and the crush the compromised tube with vise-grips. Therefore, if WD-40 isn't doing the trick, get some ammonia, apply it in a similar fashion, and let it sit. One thing that I tried was putting a blow torch on the frame to try and expand it a bit to get the post out and loosen any corrosion. In my experience, seized seatpost and their removability often boil down to how much effort and time one is willing to invest.
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Does this chainring need to be replaced? Here is a closeup of my triple: All three rings are Shimano Ultegra and have never been changed. They probably have at least 12000+ km on them. I've been pretty good about changing the chain regularly although at this point I'm pretty sure that the rear cassette is in need of changing. If you compare the middle ring with the two outer ones, it looks fairly worn (shark fin pattern). Is it bad enough to need replacing? If I just change the chain and rear cassette will I be entering a world of pain? UPDATE: Thanks for the advice so far. I have a new cassette and chain standing by but would need to order a new middle ring since it's a bit exotic (one LBS didn't know Shimano still made Ultegra triples). I know that there's a lot of km's on these rings (mostly on the middle one) and I'm also familiar with the "if it still skips, try changing it" philosophy, but I was hoping for a more objective answer. Something about the wear pattern or what to look for if I put a new chain on? <Q> Presumably with 12K+ km, and never having bought new chain rings, you have a very high cadence. <S> You should get a new chain every time you change your cassette, btw. <S> Try the new cassette and chain and see how it works. <S> If it isn't broke, don't fix it. <S> If it doesn't ride well after changing the first set of parts then yes, change it. <S> On the other hand, if you are taking it to a shop and paying for the work, it's probably worth having them put on a new chain ring while they've got it in the stand. <S> 12K is a lot of distance for the equipment, so I wouldn't hesitate to change it either way. <A> Judging by Sheldon's Guide , it definitely looks like you are in need of a new chainring. <S> Your middle and larger sprockets in particular look like they have taken on a significant ramp-like profile, which will surely lead to lackluster shifting. <A> I would only replace if: The chain is skipping because of wear of the teeth <S> You get chainsuck even when the chain is clean (small chainrings are more prone to chainsuck) <S> For cassettes <S> I would not consider changing unless it skips when you have put on a new chain. <A> I use to successfully reshape chainrings like these using a round file (diameter more or less similar to the chain roller). <S> This is a tried and tested method, and is very easy (much more than doing the same with the cogs, which I also do when needed). <S> The only limitation is with skill and time, since it is a bit monotonous and require a bit of labor. <S> You just have to remove material in a way that it gets the same shape as the others, which means the teeth would be thinner looking from the side. <S> Of course, it is necessary to remove the chainring from the crankset. <S> (and a final advice would be: change the chain often, before this happens again) <S> The picture below shows the regions that must be removed: <A> Interestingly enough, I just replaced my middle ring on almost the identical equpment that you have. <S> It cost me $27 US dollars for a new 42 tooth Ultegra ring (from Amazon), and it took about 5 minutes to swap out. <S> and mine isn't nearly as worn as yours! <S> (A few facts about chain-line wear: 1. <S> The actual wear-out of almost any chain is the rollers against the pins. <S> The rollers are just a little cylinder of metal, and it isn't as hard as the metal of the chain pins, so it wears first. <S> As the roller gets thinner-walled, the effective length of the chain gets longer, although measuring pin-to-pin with a ruler barely changes at all! <S> 2. <S> Old chain/worn rings "works" because the chain has so much slop in it that it can get right over the teeth. <S> 3. <S> New chain/worn rings <S> fails in this way: <S> Picture the top of the chainring, just as the chain is feeding onto it. <S> A link goes over a pin, and the roller "beds down" into the hollow of the sharktooth pattern. <S> The next roller would do the same, but first it has to clear the tip of the next tooth, which it can't quite do under high tension, so it "sits on". <S> As the chainring rotates, eventally the roller that it stuck on the tip of the tooth "drops in" - with a loud snap and a very disconcerting feeling of the pedal dropping out from under your foot. <S> Ride it that way for very long <S> and you'll wear out the chain <S> VERY <S> QUICKLY INDEED 4. <S> Filing out the teeth of a worn ring to keep using it - <S> yeah that oughta work, in a way, but the shifting performance won't be as nice. <S> The reason the teeth are so strangely shaped is for smoother, quicker shifting. <S> Also the teeth will be much weaker and the end-game of filing them down for "extended" life <S> is that they will eventually start breaking under high load.) <A> In general, you only need to replace the front rings when they give you problems, either with skipping, chain suck, or shifting problems. <S> Running with a worn front will not add appreciably to the wear of other components. <S> But a well-equipped bike shop should have a gauge for checking the rings.
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The best tactic is to change your chain often enough so that you minimise the wear in your cassette and chainrings. If you are doing the work yourself, I don't see any reason to change the chain ring immediately. A good shop will test ride it and be able to tell you if it is needed before you buy. The shifting wasn't the problem, it was the horrendous "snap" I would get when pedaling more than idly when sitting on the 42...
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How do I know when to replace my tires? The treads on my road bike's 28C tires are almost completely gone—they only persist along the shoulders of the tire. Do the treads matter? What is a good indicator of when the tire as a whole needs to be replaced? <Q> The tread on a road bike's tires is really quite unimportant and purely cosmetic. <S> Road bike tires have tread patterns because they sell better, not because they perform better. <S> Here's some questions to ask to decide about replacing a tire: <S> Can you see any of the fabric? <S> Are you getting flats more easily than you used to? <S> Is any part of the tire bulging out or lumpy? <S> Are there visible holes/gashes in the tire? <S> Does the wear indicator indicate you should replace? <S> (Some tires have dimples or grooves that are there to indicate when the tire should be replaced. <S> Some have an alternate color of rubber underneath, and when that shows through the tire should be replaced) <S> Smooth tread is actually ideal for road conditions, but not commonly found on tires. <S> If you're on hard surfaces such as pavement/asphalt, the tread doesn't help you and actually slightly reduces contact area and increases rolling resistance. <S> On most road tires the minimal tread pattern is just cosmetic to make their customers feel better (since a smooth tire looks slippery). <S> See also: Sheldon Brown's comments on tire replacement and tread patterns If you plan to ride through mud, sand or other soft surfaces, you need tread. <S> So when you no longer have tread on your mountain bike or cyclocross bike's tires, it's time to replace them (unless you plan to only use them on the road). <A> Many road tyres would have wear indicator . <S> Usually that would be a small hollow on the tread. <S> As long as it is visible the tyre is ok, once it is gone, the tyre should be replaced as that indicates that the main rubber layer is worn out, the grip is no longer that good and it may not be safe to ride. <A> For the last two worn-out road tires I replaced, I've noticed a pattern in wear that seems to be fairly consistent. <S> This isn't a large sample size, but the tires were from different brands, and the wear seemed consistent with various comments I've seen from others. <S> Based on your own tradeoff between cost- and safety-consciousness, you have to decide at which stage in the wear process you need to replace the tire. <S> First, the tread (if present) begins to wear. <S> Not all road tires have tread, and in most cases it's purely cosmetic. <S> Then, the tire develops a flattened, almost squared-off shape instead of the round shape that a new tire has. <S> Next, the tire starts getting a lot of small cuts in a short period of time. <S> This doesn't necessarily mean there are flats or that the cuts are deep. <S> (After removing the tire, I could more easily see that the outermost layer of rubber was extremely thin and beginning to delaminate. <S> This explains why I was seeing so many small cuts.) <S> Finally, the outermost layer of rubber wears through and threads begin to appear. <S> By this point, the tire is definitely unsafe. <S> This process might not be exactly the same for all tire models, but I've noticed it in several of them. <S> Of course, even a new tire should be replaced if it develops any signs of trauma as discussed in other answers (bulges, cracks, or gashes), or if the frequency of punctures increases. <A> I replace my tyres when i start to get a lot of punctures. <S> With new tyres, i rarely get punctures, despite what i see that i cycle over. <S> after some time, and wear, i suddenly start getting a lot of punctures. <S> As a hypothetical that doesnt happen: If i dont get any punctures and i start to see the tyre fibers coming through, its definiely time to replace the tyre. <S> I know it meets no manufacturers or performance guidelines, but its a method that requires absolutely no monitoring and lets me get all the life i can out of the tyre. <A> Rubber degrades over time due to ultraviolet light damage and oxidation.
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Old tires where the rubber looks dried out with lots of cracking or rubber coming away from the fabric carcass should be replaced.
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How do I replace road bike hoods? I commute daily on a road bike with Shimano Tiagra STI shifter/brake levers. The rubber hoods are pretty grimy and getting sticky, torn up and unpleasant these days. Repair and replacement of pretty much everything on my bike seems very straight-forward, but I can't figure out if these parts can even be replaced, much less how to do it. Ideas? <Q> Some are 'ergo' and have a right and left hood <S> so make sure that you watch for right and left hoods. <A> If you can't get a replacement hood, try making one yourself. <S> Here I have stretched a section of 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 inner tube over the brake lever. <S> The inner tube fits better if you cut off the tip of the "horn" of the aero levers. <S> With these Shimano Exage Action BL-A351 levers you can slip the edge of the rubber under the plastic front of the lever to help hold it in place. <S> The lump at the bottom of the dip in the brake lever is caused by a metal tab. <S> I'd cover that with a leftover piece of padded handlebar tape before adding the inner tube. <S> To avoid the seams on the surface of the rubber, try turning the inner tube inside out. <A> before you do anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag. <S> if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before. <S> i use mine for over 5yrs+ its very scratched now but still don't need to replace. <A> I think the first thing you should do is take the hoods off the bars. <S> Usually there is a screw or an allen key that will loosen the hood on the bar. <S> On my hoods this is only viable when the break leaver is pulled down. <S> After you loosen this screw you should be able to slide the hoods along and off the bar. <S> (You might need to remove the tape). <A> If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option "hack" is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body. <S> You can use electrician's tape to hold the last end and stop the tape from unraveling.
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Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever.
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How do I adjust my rear derailleur (Shimano SIS) when it is only slightly out? It has been a while since I had my bike serviced and the gears are sometimes slightly out of perfect alignment. This results in the occasional mis-shift. I also think the change in seasons have played a part. What do I need to do to get it back to perfect? <Q> Adjusting the rear derailleur is a matter of tightening or slackening the shifter cable so that the chain runs smoothly for all rear cogs. <S> The easiest way to do this is using a barrel adjuster -- there's normally one where the cable runs into the derailleur <S> and you may have another where the cable runs into the shifter or on the downtube for a road bike. <S> If you look at the barrel adjuster from the point of view of the cable <S> housing (not the bare cable) running into it, turning the adjuster clockwise will slacken the cable and counter-clockwise will tighten it. <S> Adding slack to the rear derailleur should adjust the chain towards the small cog, tightening moves it towards the large cog. <S> If the barrel adjuster doesn't give you enough range, then you'll have to adjust the slack where the cable clamps into the derailleur. <S> With your bike in a stand, or flipped upside-down, change to your middle chainring (for a triple) and try it out. <S> You should be able to see small movements in the derailleur as you tweak the barrel adjuster. <S> I like to get the middle cog dialed in <S> really well <S> (change gears in/out this cog) and then check that this setup works for all of the others. <S> You'll probably have to adjust this slightly once you ride the bike. <S> (Once you get comfortable with this, you can actually tweak the derailleur mid-ride without stopping if you have a barrel adjuster on the shifter or down tube) After tweaking the derailleur setup, you should also double-check the limit screws just to be on the safe side. <S> These are two screws on the derailleur that adjust how far it can move. <S> One keeps the chain from going past the large cog (sometimes marked L?) <S> and the other does the same for the small cog (H?). <S> Make sure that the derailleur cannot move the chain off of the end cogs. <S> Turning the appropriate screw clockwise should push the limit in towards the center of the cassette, counter-clockwise normally gives the derailleur more freedom. <S> Of course, there are a whole range of other problems that can affect shifting (worn chain, worn cogs, bad chain line, worn cable/housing, sticky derailleur, etc.), but try this first. <A> Put it up on a stand or flip it over and shift and play with the barrel adjuster. <S> Knowing which way to spin it is more a matter of experience with adjusting gears than anything else. <A> Just a visual supplement to @darkcanuck's excellent description: <S> This image (105 rear derailleur) shows the barrel adjuster, and how clockwise rotation will pull the derailleur toward smaller rear cogs, while counterclockwise (blue) moved the chain towards the larger rings. <S> So, for instance, if you're slipping down a cog, counterclockwise will snug things back up to where you want.
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You can probably use the barrel adjuster on the derailleur to tighten or loosen the cable slightly and get the shifting back to perfect.
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Recommendations for transporting twins on the front of a bike are there any child seats that can be used for twins (6 month old)? I don't like the idea of putting them in a trailer as I suspect its easy for cars to not see it. Also - special bonus point to anyone who knows of a solution that is compatible with a tag along bike (used by a five year old)! Edit I am discussing some custom options with local bike mechanic, will report back when I have update. <Q> An alternative to long tail bicycles is long wheelbase bicycles: <A> Recommendations for transporting twins on a bike? <S> A trailer. <S> I'm a father myself - my son is nearly 9 months old, and I cycle a lot. <S> In the area that I live, I wouldn't feel safe having him on the road with me at all . <S> (they can't wobble you, don't change your centre of gravity, and won't fall over when you do). <S> Anecdotal evidence that I've read suggests that drivers are actually more likely to give you a wide berth with a trailer, <S> simply because you look unusual and they notice you ( this question has some links to an interesting study on factors affecting the gap given to cyclists, which touches on a similar thing). <S> This article makes a very good case for the trailer vs a child seat in a collision with a car. <S> Aside from anything else, kids love to ride in trailers. :-) <S> I know your question states that you don't like the idea of a trailer, but if they were my twins I'd want them in a trailer <S> - so I can't offer any other answer than that! <A> Probably have to have them trade off to minimize fights, since the front seat is probably a lot more fun (and easier to watch the kid). <S> I see a couple around town where the wife carries their kid in a handlebar mounted seat that looks just like that one. <S> Or you could get an Xtracycle and get the " peapod " accessory to put two kids on the back of your now-longtailed bike. <S> There's probably similar options for other longtailed bikes, or simply seats that you can mount two of two a longtailed bike... <S> Here's a Kona Ute with two peapods on the back: <S> You should check the age, though... <S> I understand that you want to wait until a couple of months after the child can hold their own head up <S> (the helmet makes it even harder on the child's neck, but small children really need to be wearing a helmet). <S> Something like 9 months? <S> Or maybe find a seat arrangement that has the kid laying down instead of sitting upright. <S> For a solution that's compatible with a tag-along bike, you probably need something that puts both kids in front of you. <S> A bakfiet's probably way too expensive, though. <S> I see lots of parents carrying kids on bikes, but only ever a single kid on the bike, if there's 2 or more kids, all the others are in a trailer, on a trail-a-bike or on the other parent's bike. <S> Disclaimer: I don't have kids and have never tried to carry even one on a bike. <S> Closest <S> I've ever come is either a lot of groceries on the bike or an adult on a trailer. <A> This is pretty unconventional and not necessarily available to you, but here's some food for thought. <S> Friends of mine had had a custom 'rack' built for their Kona Ute by a local rack & frame-builder to transport their two daughters (although they are much older). <S> It came out exceptionally well (plus the girls love it): <S> (Photo courtesy Lois Keenan , rack by Dan Neidz ) <A> If you have the requisite skills you could make one of these (or get someone to make it for you): <S> There are lots of details on his site Rutzer Tales . <A> you could use one behind seat kid seat and one top tube kid seat. <S> and <A> Danish solutions can be found here: http://www.christianiabikes.com/english/uk_main.htm <S> and here: http://nihola.info/en/nihola+bikes/cigar+family/ <A> For bigger kids: http://www.workcycles.com/home-products/child-transport-bicycles/onderwater-family-tandem <A> Kevin I'm a father of 3 girls and a boy all grown up now <S> but i use to ride them to pre-school [back in the day] using side streets when possible. <S> In my opinion a trailer would be the best and safest.. <S> when and if the bike falls the speed at which the childrens heads hit the ground <S> is very very fast it is sometimes refered to as "tip-speed" <S> even with a helmet i would highly discourage it.. <A> Winther kangaroo but its expensive. <S> Front trailer. <S> Three wheeled and lots of storage space. <S> Trailers are safe for 6/12 babies. <S> A place for them to rest and shady. <S> Water proof and bug proof too. <S> Seats can change to face you or look at the front view. <S> They also have the four seater one for your 5 year old. <S> Capacity weight is 100kg. <S> Saw it in the web. <S> Tested safe.
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You could always get a seat for one in front of you ( handlebar mounted child seat ) and the second behind you ( conventional rack-mount child seat ). If I were offroad, or on more quiet roads, I would definitely prefer to have him in a trailer; they're more stable for you and your child
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What pressure should I run my Mountain Bike tires at? Should I run my mountain bike at the suggested PSI/Bar on the tire/rim? Or should I run it a bit lower? Or is it more about conditions? Should I run lower if I am running on softer terrain? <Q> Tire pressure is generally a trade-off between three things: Rolling resistance (more pressure == <S> rolls easier) Pinch flat resistance <S> (more pressure == <S> less chance for the tube to tear when a rock squashes the tire toward the rim) <S> Grip (with less pressure, the tire can conform better to rocks, roots, and other terrain giving a larger contact surface) <S> If you are riding steep downhills and/or on slippery open rock outcroppings, grip will be more important than rolling resistance, so use as little pressure as won't pinch-flat quickly. <S> There is a 4th trade-off as well: weight. <S> You can buy double-sidewall downhill tires that allow you to run very low pressures (such as 25psi) without any danger of pinch-flatting, but these can weigh almost double what normal cross-country tires do. <S> As mentioned in other answers, your tires don't have to be the same pressure. <S> Usually grip is more important on the front tire since most of your weight is on it while descending difficult downhill sections. <S> Similarly, when riding on flat or climbing, most of your weight is over the back tire, so rolling resistance and pinch-flat resistance are more important for the back. <S> I personally ride with a low-pressure (30psi in a tire rated 35-65psi) <S> double-sidewall downhill tire on the front and with a higher pressure ( <S> 50psi in a tire rated 45-65psi) cross-country tire on the rear. <S> I sacrifice some weight, but otherwise get the best of both worlds: fabulous grip going down and easy rolling on the flats and climbs. <S> Use your best judgment in going below the rated pressure of the tire, as pinch flats become more likely. <S> If you go below the rated pressure, be sure to test it out on hard impacts (such as a rock-corner) on easy terrain before throwing yourself at high speed down a mountain where a blow-out would be catastrophic. <A> If you know the terrain is slick rock or really loose and will require more contact between the tire and the surface then make them a bit softer. <S> This will increase the chance of pinch flats though so be careful. <S> I almost always run my front tire a bit softer than my back since most of my weight is on the back tire. <S> Just something I've found that I prefer. <A> It really depends on that the trails are like as well as your weight. <S> If you are riding really flowy trails with few obstacles, jumps, or drops, you can probably ride a bit under 25psi if you are light. <S> THis will give you significantly more traction and control. <S> If you are riding trails with jumps and drops, you will want to air it up more. <S> With rockier trails, you will want to ride at a higher psi to avoid pinch flats. <S> These are the kinds of trails that I typically ride <S> and I usually go with 30 - 35 psi in the front and 35 - 40 psi in the back. <A> I would say that you should run the lowest pressure you can without the tyre rolling off the rim on corners or burping on rocks. <S> The assumption that harder tyres have less rolling resistance is not necessarily true, here is a study showing the opposite. <S> [updated link, if it breaks again, search Google for "Rolling Resistance Eng Illustrated". <S> The document was originally written by Schwalbe Tires] <A> I agree with the other answers, but my strategy is to run the lowest pressure I can while consistently avoiding pinch flats. <S> There's too many variables to come up with a general answer (bodyweight, trail type, tire manufacturer), but I find that something in the mid-30's is safe for me (200+lbs, xc race courses). <S> If you want to play it safe, find a safe pressure and add 2-3 psi. <S> Also, always check your tire pressure, taking the few minutes before most rides keeps you riding longer. <A> A tip my friend showed me at the weekend was to take to take a wheel and find a pointy rock. <S> Lean all your weight gently onto the wheel. <S> If the wheel doesn't hit the pointy rock then you're not likely to suffer from a pinch flat. <S> If the rock easily touches the rim then the pressure is too low. <S> This should account for a number of critical variables such as the volume of the tyre and the weight of the rider and the reasoning that you'll hit the rock at speed or on one wheel only (normally each wheel only takes 1/2 your weight). <A> Some very good answers, but I think it's also worth saying that the sidewall gives a maximum <S> not suggested pressure on all the bike tyres I've seen. <S> The only time I ever run my mountain bike tyres at their maximum is if I'm riding on the road and in a hurry. <A> None of the answers mention tubeless tires. <S> A tubeless tires has no tube <S> so no tube to pinch. <S> The primary purpose of tubeless is for lower pressure. <S> Need both tubeless rims (wheels) and tubeless tires. <S> Can get conversion kits for regular rims. <S> Tubeless comes in fully tubeless and tubeless ready. <S> With tubeless ready you need to use a liquid sealant. <S> Tubeless ready is a more common.
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If you are riding terrain where grip isn't too much of an issue (flat or low-angle dirt and dry rocks for example), then higher pressure will keep you going fast without pinch flatting. Generally run what the tire says.
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What should I look for in an indoor cycle trainer? I'm considering getting an indoor cycle trainer . I had a look on ebay. There are a lot, and the price ranges from under 20 pounds to several hundred pounds. Quality and function range accordingly, so I'm a bit lost. My main reason for getting it is to use it for cardio fitness training. So, I'm looking for something that meets these criteria a) Its got to be stable (no annoying rocking / wobbling) b) As small/compact as possible so it can be packed away (while meeting criteria a) c) I can change the resistance, or incline to increase the cardio workout. Preferably mid workout. Can anyone recommend a trainer that meets these requirements? <Q> I can't recommend any specifics offhand, other than I've used two different types of Tacx trainers and have been very happy with them. <S> Both were in the $150-$200 range new. <S> A couple of comments though: a & b: <S> As long as it's not a really low end one if you are wobbling you might want to spend some time working on spinning smoothly. <S> And most everything on the market will fold up a bit, though not tiny. <S> Think something in the loose ballpark of the size of half a wheel. <S> c. <S> If you're looking lower on the budget range, don't worry about not being able to switch the resistance mid-workout on the trainer. <S> You can get a wide range of workout just by shifting gears on your bike. <S> d. <S> (you didn't mention this one) <S> Noise level. <S> Some of the wind and magnetic trainers are loud . <S> If you can try it out, great. <S> The Minoura one I've used was painful. <A> My only cycle trainer experience is with the one I bought, an Elite Fluid Primo. <S> It's a fluid trainer with a beefy stand, so less noisy than other types and the design is fairly simple. <S> Just a matter of clamping the trainer onto the bike's rear axle <S> and you're ready to go. <S> As an apartment-dweller, I've got the whole thing setup on rubber tiles from Home Depot to reduce the amount of vibration sent to the neighbours below. <S> As far as your criteria: <S> Stability is great, despite my initial skepticism. <S> At 225lbs I can get out of the saddle no problem although it feels odd not balancing the bike yourself. <S> Folds down to about 8" tall, 26" x 18" <S> so not too difficult to store. <S> Resistance is based on how fast the wheel spins: gear up for more, down for less. <S> As geoffc points out, riding a trainer indoors gets very hot. <S> I set mine up by the balcony door and only use it in the winter so that I can get plenty of cool air. <S> It's also pretty mind-numbing to ride, after an hour I've had enough. <S> I only use it in the off-season and combine it with a heart rate monitor to decide how hard to push. <A> I cannot recommend a specific model, there are way too many products. <S> I have a Cyclops Fluid trainer that is ok. <S> I hate riding a trainer, it is too dang hot indoors for me. <S> The tripod stands most trainers use look less stable than you would imagine, but they really can be quite stable. <S> With a fluid trainer, the harder you ride, the harder the resistance. <S> So actually spinning fast is pretty hard to do on it. <S> Most of the tripod style ones, the support legs fold back to the frame, so it is as thick as the resistance mechanism is thick. <S> I would NOT get a wind trainer! <S> Even the fluid trainer I have is louder than I would like, but the other options are louder. <A> There are primarily two types of low-end consumer trainers: Magnetic Trainers and Fluid trainers : Mag Trainers - Uses Magnets to alter the resistance. <S> Rider typically uses a handheld controller that is connected to the trainer to adjust the magnets/resistance while on the bike. <S> The "harder" you pedal, the higher the resistance is automatically increased. <S> No handheld controller necessary. <S> These are more convenient than Mag trainers but also more expensive. <A> i'm glad i'm not the only one that needs a little bit of help deciding on an indoor bike trainer. <S> I'm pretty new into cycling <S> but i've really started to love it, which is why I think I need an indoor bike trainer now <S> , I'm addicted!! <S> I've been looking around and <S> I need some suggestions, I found this site http://www.squidoo.com/best-indoor-bike-trainer-stands-mats-risers <S> and I really like the Forza F-2 Model <S> and I was curious if any of you guys have had experience with that model or forza <S> and if it's a pretty reliable brand. <S> any help would be great, thanks guys.
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The tacx trainers I've used were relatively quiet. Virtually any trainer on the market is going to be pretty stable unless you are out of the saddle and sprinting. Fluid Trainers - Uses actual fluid enclosed in the trainer assembly to alter the resistance. Cheap trainers are typically Mag trainers.
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Gear indicator on SRAM X5 Shifter shows wrong gear I have SRAM X5 Shifters like this one: The indicator is now showing the gear above the one I'm actually in, so if like the picture it shows a 2 I would actually be in 1 (the smallest chainring), a 3 showing means I'm on the middle chainring and no indicator means I'm on the biggest chainring. I've tried searching for tutorials on overhauling the shifter in the hopes that these would include the gear indicator but all of the ones I've found seem to deal only with the actual shifter part of the array and not the indicator. Does anyone know if it is possible to fix the gear indicator? Can you point me towards (or give me a run through) of how to go about fixing it if it's possible to do so? Other than showing the wrong gear everything else about the shifter works fine. <Q> I don't know if you're still having this problem, but this could be useful for others, so I'll go ahead and answer it. <S> To be honest I wouldn't bother trying to fix a gear indicator, especially a front one. <S> It's not difficult to remember which chainring you're in and opening up the shifter is definitely going to invite problems for inexperienced mechanics. <S> The above notwithstanding, this is a very easy problem to remedy. <S> 1) Shift the chain to the lowest chainring (least cable tension). <S> 1.5) Slide the shifter off of the bar if possible. <S> (This step is not strictly neccesary, but I find it makes things easier.) <S> 2) <S> There should be a number of small allen key heads around the top of the shifter. <S> Undo these and carefully remove the top cover of the shifter. <S> Take a picture of the internals in case anything falls out. <S> 3) <S> The top cover is composed of the cover and the bar clamp (which contains the gear indicator). <S> All of the working parts are contained in the lower part of the shifter. <S> In the middle of all of these you will see a cog which is raised up and doesn't appear to mesh with anything. <S> This is what drives the indicator. <S> Slide it with your finger to '1' (which is where you should have shifted to at the start). <S> 4) Put the top cover back on and put the shifter back on the bar. <A> Your derailleur cable is probably stretched. <S> It happens normally on newer bikes. <S> Take it to your local bike shop and it'll just take them a minute to fix it. <S> They'll probably even do it for free to get your future business. <A> That said, the best solution I could find is the manufacturer's maintenance manuals , which is somewhat lacking. <S> Unfortunately I don't think there are many people who've worked on this specific shifter that can answer your question. <A> Crack open the shifter. <S> There are four screws holding it together. <S> If you do move the main one, it is meant to be attached over the cable router and within a small hole in the white plastic near the centre. <S> As for correcting your perceived problem. <S> In general there is a white strip with sprockets. <S> Move the white strip as you see fit. <S> You can test the location as you go along to see where it is at. <S> All that being said, I agree with previous posters, if it ain't really broke don't fix it. <S> I wouldn't open the shifter if I didn't really have to. <A> I agree with Chris Leon, if the shifting mechanism is functioning properly, this is just a cable tension issue. <S> I have often overtightened my front derailleur cable and had to back it off. <S> It's actually a pretty good project to work on if you're interested in servicing the bike yourself. <S> You can do it!
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You can adjust the derailleur cable yourself or if it's a new bike the shop will generally do free adjustment at 30 days. This seems like an example of 'if it's broke, don't fix it'... I understand how it might be bothersome or annoying, but modern shifters such as these are relatively complex and can be easily 'messed-up'. What Chris said is probably wrong: the gear indicator will not be affected by cable stretch. On the underside of the top cover you will see a toothed strip of plastic: this is the indicator. Be careful to not displace the springs.
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My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me? My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me? We don't own a van, the size of any "bike" is important as it will have to fit in a car. <Q> I've seen quite a few older people in my city riding around on 3 wheeled bikes, similar to the ones shown here . <S> They offer quite a bit of stability, without making you low to the ground like a recumbent. <S> However, I can't think of how you would get one into a car. <S> Getting a regular bike into a car is hard enough, have you thought about a roof rack? <S> You almost might want to look into stabilizer wheels which can be attached to any bike, and you may be able to find some that are removable for transportation. <A> Check out the Hase Pino . <S> Tandem Bike, but built to let a recumbent rider get a full view from the front, without having to steer or balance, while the captain can sit upright with the same awesome view. <S> There's accessories for seatbelts or handcranks, if that's your thing. <S> Also, the newest models fold in the middle, so they can fit in a trunk. <S> On the other hand, mine doesn't fold, but it's short enough that I can just put it on a trunk rack. <A> Of course this does bring up the transportation issue. <S> Another thought would be a tandem. <S> If you can balance enough to keep you both up and she can manage not to fall off. <S> Again this brings up transportation as you'd have to have a big car (truck really) to get a tandem inside. <S> Really I'd look at the recumbent and roof racks. <A> You really should read Shelton Brown's site: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ <S> He was a great resource for the bike community (RIP) and you have some common threads with him. <S> A note on the bike having to fit in the car, it is possible to get racks for the tandem, it doesn't have to be transported in the car. <S> www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem/index.html <S> He had one before he died and has an write-up on it. <S> www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/ Cheers,Chris <A> I found a long list here (I don't know how good or recent it is, but it is quite long, and pan-national) <S> : Where to Find A Four-Wheeled Bike or Tricycle . <S> The various sellers might tell you whether/how it's possible to transport them by car. <S> There are also second-level links, for example one of the links is to http://www.roman-road.co.uk/ <S> which then links to http://www.tricycleassociation.org.uk/ <A> My sister works in Cardiff and one of her part time jobs is working with severally mentally disabled adults. <S> She often takes them out on specially adapted bicycles/tricycles which in Cardiff there are a lot of trails and tracks to enable them to get around. <S> Although this does not directly meet your requirements of fitting into your van they do offer other sort of mobility bikes which you can read more about the kind of bikes that are provided here: http://www.cardiffpedalpower.org/
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You could look at getting a roof rack or rear platform for the car which could negate the transportation issue. Your best bet is probably a recumbent trike. The other option that Shelton Brown can also speak to is the trike. He talks about tandeming, which would be an option for you.
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As recumbents are low to the ground and hard to see, how to you use one safely on a normal road? My wife thinks that she can't use a recumbent on the roads, as a car driver will not be able to see it. What’s the solution? <Q> Getting a high safety flag is common on recumbents (and trailers), at least in the US. <S> Photo credit <A> Sorry for the late answer. <S> The solution is to persuade your wife that she will be seen. <S> Obviously you can make the bike more visible, as the other answers suggest, but this is probably an emotional issue rather than a reasoned one. <S> She feels less visible on the recumbent. <S> The solution to the feeling is not so much reasoned argument as it is to start riding and focus on riding in places that she feels safe. <S> Try to balance that against being exposed to motorists, so look for quiet back streets and places where bike paths cross roads. <S> Avoid car parks because those are insanely dangerous even if they're low-speed. <S> If she doesn't have a recumbent yet, a velomobile might also help. <S> The combination of feeling somewhat enclosed and actually being surrounded by a huge blob of colour does wonders. <S> Not to mention the (almost always positive) comments the velo gets. <S> Faling that, a tailbox is a useful addition - it provides storage as well as a block of colour. <A> I've never had a car not see me, who would have seen a bicycle. <S> I also use a flag and reflectors. <S> I particularly like reflectors on my body and helmet, since we perceive body motion more easily than machine (straight line) motion. <S> That said, flags don't help the worst visibility problem: when a car is approaching from a side street and not looking in your lane. <S> Your front gears may be the only part visible, and they blend in at night. <S> You need to grab that car's attention, so I have reflective tape all over the sides of my pedals. <A> Remember, a conventional bike can be hidden by vans and buses. <S> The key thing, in my limited experience, is to stay well out of the gutter. <S> Refuse to be intimidated by cars behind wanting you out of the way. <S> Make sure you are where you can be seen. <S> For instance, if two cars facing each other are turning right (across the road in the UK), just hang back away from the curb. <A> <A> Get a really high and visible safety flag. <S> Remember that as a recumbent rider you'll quickly grow a large stomach and beard to cushion you from car impacts.
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I'd add that getting reflectors and a flashing tail light, along with some sort of front flasher, will increase visibility. That said, it's crucial to bike safely and to stay where the cars are looking: in the street, not the gutter or sidewalk. Overall, you are probably going to be safer on a recumbent than a conventional upright bike.
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Are there any recumbent tricycles that can be transported with a normal car? My wife would like a 3 wheeled recumbent, but I can’t see how we can transport one with a normal car. I can put my bike on a rack or the roof, but all the recumbent I have seen are too large to transport. What solutions have people come up with? <Q> If your car doesn't have a trailer hitch on it, you can have one installed and purchase a "trike and bike" rack that mounts in the trailer hitch receiver: <S> Wheel holder and bike support arm styles are available for the bike carrier position. <S> The rack fits both 1 1/4" and 2" vehicle receiver hitches (patented). <S> My inlaws ride recumbent bikes and had a hitch installed on their Toyota Camry and purchased a double-trike rack. <A> HP Velotechnik Scorpion FX and ICE <S> (UK) make folding tadpole recumbent trikes, which can fit in the back of a reasonably sized car. <S> TriSled (Australia) make one with a break in the frame that serves the same purpose. <A> Firstly I've seen a variety of trikes on the roof of a fairly wide variety of cars - hmm, I've carried one on the roof of mine along with two recumbent bikes, so its perfectly possible to carry a trike on a car. <S> The challenge - as it has always been with recumbents - is that you may not be able to do so with a single standard piece of kit. <S> From memory wheels either side of a set of roof bars being quite a common solution (challenge being getting the thing up onto the roof in the first place). <S> After that it rather depends on the trike - there are an ever increasing number of folding (well collapsible) <S> trikes - the latest being HP Velotechnik's Scorpion FX which is picutured being loaded into the boot of a Smartcar here: <S> http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/scorpionfx/index_e.html <S> Similarly Hase have taken steps to make it easy to break a KettWiesel down for transport. <S> Hmm, here's the Challenge variation on the theme: <S> http://www.challenge-recumbents.com/index.php?language=en&selection=trike-alize-en with, guess what... a picture of the bike going into the back of a SmartCar - so clearly the solution to the problem is to buy the right car (-: <S> Pragmatically, if you can find your way to an HPV club event (e.g those run by the BHPC in the UK) you'll be able to see and ask people who will have addressed this problem. <A> I've had good luck strapping my TerraTrike to the top of a Matrix. <S> We have a roof rack, which makes it easier. <S> But before that I just fed the straps through the doors. <S> The trickiest part is that at highway speeds, there's a lot of stuff that can fly off. <S> (I lost a fender that way.) <S> So my procedure is <S> Put the seat back as far down as possible, to reduce drag. <S> Strap down fenders and anything else that's loose with velcro. <S> Put cargo straps through the trike tires to strap the car to the roof.
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Hitch Rider Trike-N-Bike™ hitch mounted racks transport a trike and bike at the same time. Greenspeed GT3 (Australia),
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What's the best way to track your performance? I was checking some options to track my performance (kms/hr, distance, altitude, etc...), I do MTB and city biking. The first choice is a nokia based tracker ( http://www.sports-tracker.com/ ), I love nokia phones. Various choices come from this question ( What is a good iPhone app for bikers? ) and almost all are iphone based. But, I'm being attracted to a GPS-only gadget. I want to upload my performance to the cloud(internet). What you guys use for track your ride? <Q> I would recommend getting a Garmin and using Motion Based software to track your rides. <S> They track all of the metrics that you mentioned. <A> Works pretty good. <S> You also might want to check out MapMyRide . <S> They have a Blackberry and iPhone app to track your route. <S> Personally I find the only problems with using my cell phone as a GPS device is that the battery drains really fast, and also that the reception isn't that great. <S> SportyPal and MapMyRide both support GPX imports, which can be exported from a wide range of GPS devices. <A> Try Runkeeper for iPhone and Android. <S> http://runkeeper.com/ <A> Garmin Edge 500. <S> It's small, light, and works with ANT+ devices. <S> For a full review see Ray Maker's blog: <S> http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2009/11/garmin-edge-500-in-depth-review.html <S> I've had mine since March, and I've recently coupled it with a Powertap PRO+ power meter. <S> The combination is a bit pricey though, but there are two great things that you get from this combo: 1) <S> Once you've figured out your power levels, you can ride right at the edge without blowing up. <S> This is especially important on hills where your initial effort at the bottom winds up being way too much for the conditions. <S> 2) <S> It's great for measuring your progress over time, especially if you test yourself on the same course over a year. <S> The Garmin connect software is OK. <S> What is cool is you can look at other people's numbers to see how you stack up. <S> For example, you can check out Ryder Hesjedal's "easy mountain day" on Stage 14 in this year's Tour de France. <S> Newbie here <S> - I can't add the link, but you can find it by searching for "ryder hesjedal stage 14 garmin connect". <A> I love strava.com to track my performance, my GPS collects the data, upload to strava and see where I rank for different segments of road. <S> I can see that my friend was two seconds faster up that hill and then work harder to go faster the next time. <A> If you don't mind wearing something on your wrist, the Garmin Forerunners are great. <S> You can keep all of your workouts online at Garmin Connect . <S> They are a little pricy. <S> There are a few models and can run you anywhere from $150 - $400. <S> I actually have the one pictured here . <S> I use it for running <S> and it's the cheapest model (also the oldest). <S> I have to admit that this is really big on my wrist. <S> If you could afford it, get one of the newer/trimmer models. <S> The interface is pretty nice. <S> If you're a programmer, you can even use their API to create your own apps to chart and track your performance! :) <A> Running Ahead http://www.runningahead.com <S> Free <S> You can track your running, cycling and other workouts. <S> No advertisement at all. <S> Very clean interface. <S> You can customize your home page and reports Many charts and reports on your workout data <S> Supports the import of GPS data directly from the GPS. <S> (Depends on the model that you've got) <S> Supports the import of data by file ( <S> e.g. from GPS file or from mapmyride.com export file) <S> Google map views of your runs/rides. <A> I like SportyPal myself. <S> Several platforms are supported (iPhone, BlackBerry, Android, etc) and there is a free version that does the necessities. <S> It also does a good job of displaying your results online. <S> This is a great choice if you don't want to buy a separate GPS/Bike computer, but you might find it lacking if you want the features from a dedicated device. <S> Examples: <S> SportyPal Community Page <A> If you're considering an Android phone at all, google put out a MyTracks app that does what you're looking for. <A> I'm currently developing GPSLog <S> Labs to do just that. <S> I'm a keen cyclist and built the site to track my rides and training that I record on a simple GPS logger. <S> It's got zillions of features and stats and does smart processing of the resulting logs to help you compare rides as accurately as possible. <S> Give it a try <S> and I'd love to hear what you think. <A> It's really good and their site is pretty neat too. <S> It does full GPS tracking (for free) and you can manually create routes and enter activities ( <S> despite the name it isn't just for running, in fact I even use it for open water swimming). <A> I use dailymile.com to track my running and biking . <A> I use movescount to sync with my suunto T6 watch, witch recods the data from my bike ( distance, cadence and GPS ) <A> I discovered Fitness on Strands.com and really like it <A> I log all my rides with a Garmin Oregon 450. <S> After riding I download the data to my Mac and archive them using Ascent . <S> The software lets you compare activities and gives you a lot of different metrics. <S> You can also export your data in gpx, tcx etc. <S> formats to use various online tools.
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If you have a Garmin you can sync it to your dailymile profile. I've used SportyPal also. I use a RunKeeper app for my phone (available for both iPhone & Android devices). You can also use your Nokia or any of the many Android and iPhone apps that let you export GPX files.
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Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones? Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long. I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again? Do they work? <Q> They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine. <S> If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these. <S> The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't buy the glue-less ones. <A> <A> Slime scabs suck as a permanent repair. <S> I think they would be fine for a temporary repair, because that is about how long they last. <S> Self vulcanizing cement and regular patches are still the best way to go. <S> I still have some scabs, but will only use them in an emergency, or when I patch my ex girlfriends tubes. <A> I have used the stick on patches. <S> The durability is conditional with proper installation.1-scuff the tube2-try and have the tube the same size as the inside of the tire.3-after placing the patch on the tube take a smooth object and rub air out from under the patch. <S> This is the most important step! <A> Glueless patches are to get you home, and glued patches are for the permanent repair once you make it home. <S> Personally, I carry a spare tube and glueless patches, and at home I have a nice glue kit. <S> The glue kits actually bind the patch to the intertube, where the glueless stick on top over the puncture. <S> That being said, I've had glueless patches stay on until I tossed the tube. <A> No! <S> Still the same experience as a few years ago. <S> Don't bother wasting your money on them (again). <S> My experience has been that sometimes they don't even get you home before needint to be reapplied. <S> Carry a spare tube and if you get a flat, take it home with you and patch it with a glue patch, or carry one of the small glue patch kits with you if you are flat prone. <A> I do carry them with me <S> but I've never patched on the road -- I always carry a fresh tube instead since most of my flats happen in wet conditions. <S> But I've occasionally used "glueless" <S> (they're actually pre-glued) patches from the comfort of home <S> and they've turned out fine. <A> I bought some once. <S> Never again. <S> The problem is that if you patch once, then have to patch again, the first patch crinkles when the tube deflates and then develops a leak because the patches don't stretch with the tube. <A> I use the Park GP-2 patch kit and have found them extremely durable, lasting the lifetime of the tube. <S> This is with 28-32mm tires and pressures up to 90 PSI or so. <A> I've had no problems with the Park ones that I haven't had with 'proper' ones and haven't felt the need to replace them when I get in. <S> Like regular ones, my experience is that if it's on, it's on and if it's still good after 24 hours then it'll last as long as the tube. <S> I've had some issues with getting them to stick in the rain <S> but I think that probably applies to all patches.
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I've use glueless patches for a number of tube repairs and have found them to be just as durable as the glued patches.
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How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy? I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike. I was changing the tube in my rear tire. The rim strip (rubber lining around the wheel to protect the tube from the spokes) had moved a bit so I went to adjust it and it broke at the hole made for the valve. I've never shopped for this part before. How do I know what size to buy? Are there different types? My tube size is 26 inches. <Q> There are a couple of types of rim tape available: <S> Cloth <S> - This has a glue backing and is very long lasting. <S> If you need to replace a spoke nipple, depending on the age of the tape, you will most probably have to also replace the tape since it will no longer stick to the rim. <S> Rubber - This is continuous loop of rubber (stretchy) and the stretch is what holds the tape in place. <S> As it ages there is a tendency for the area around the valve stem hole to break. <S> The rubber can also perish or become brittle with age. <S> Plastic <S> - This is a slightly stretchy plastic in a continuous loop that can be slipped over the outer rim. <S> I found that the tapes have issues as they age with cracking, particularly when you are using high pressure tyres. <S> You can get little splits in the tape just above the holes of the rim. <S> My personal favourite is the cloth tape, over time they have been the most dependable. <S> It is very important to get the right width of rim tape. <S> If the tape is too narrow you can get the tube being pinched into the rim hole, or cut by the hole. <S> If the tape is too wide then you can get the tyre being lifted of the rim when at high pressure (not instantaneous and leads to a huge bang). <S> I know you can get both the cloth and rubber tapes in various widths for the various wheel sizes, <S> so shop around to get the right one for your wheels. <A> I just use electrical tape. <S> Been doing it for years <S> and it's never let me down. <S> Replacing a spoke means you have to replace the tape <S> but I've broke 2 spokes in 10 years. <A> Rubber rim strip is pretty stretchy stuff--and you want it to fit snugly! <S> Therefore, if buying rubber the diameter of your rim strip is not nearly as important as the width . <S> It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim. <S> That said, your local shop should have some in a size that fits 26" rims best. <S> Alternatively, there are brands of rim strip which are not one continuous piece and are not rubber, but instead are similar to thick tape. <S> It's important to note the thickness--electrical tape may work in a pinch (and after a couple layers) but it's not nearly as resilient. <A> For getting the size correct, I stick coins into the rim until I get a combination that barely fits in the slot of the rim. <S> Then measure the that stack. <A> This image is the current recommendation. <S> Rim ID width +2 <S> mm (to allow for shape)Stick on variety. <S> I use 2 laps of masking tape. <A> It depends more on the make/model of wheel you have I think. <S> The 26in diameter is fairly standard (i.e. only small variation) but the width of the rim can vary depending on the type of wheel (i.e. trail, all mountain, race, etc). <A> From what I understand,a tape, such as Velox would be your best bet. <S> This is a premium cloth tape that has a sticky backing to it, so as to hold it in place. <S> If you've changed a few tubes and are using a plastic tape, you'll know what I mean when I say the tape has a tendency to move sideways on you. <S> Like Dustin mentioned, you really only need a tape as wide as the "spoke trough". <S> Any wider and your tape may impinge on the seating of the tire bead to the rim. <S> Hope that helps....
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This type of rim strip is basically one-size-fits all and is generally considered higher quality that the rubber type.
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Where Can I Legally Ride Off Road in the UK? As it says in the title, where can I ride legally ride my mountain bike off road in the UK? <Q> In England, Wales and NI You can legally ride in lots of places: On any bridleway On any Byway open to all traffic (BOAT) <S> Restricted Byways (Used to be called RUPPs) <S> Permisive Bridleways Dedicated MTB trial centres (of which there are now lots) <S> The first three categories of path can be found on your OS map, although the definitive maps are held by local area councils and the OS map can (very rarely) be wrong. <S> Permissive Bridleways are open to bikes but are not often marked on maps, they are there with the permission of the land owner and aren't a statutory right of way. <S> There is a good overview here as to the position in Scotland. <S> A good way to find your local routes is via your local cycling club if they have an off road section. <A> Sustrans has created a lot of of road cycle paths in the UK, details on there website <A> Cannock Chase have some good (handbuilt) trails - http://www.chasetrails.co.uk . <A> Here are a couple of links to sites with information about trail centres in the UK: <S> Trail Centres Find where to cycle
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In Scotland the rules are differnt and much more liberal - if there is a trail then you can probably ride it.
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When or how often should I replace my bike helmet? I’ve fallen a couple times, but no serious damage is visible on the helmet except for a couple divots here and there. Should I consistently be replacing my helmet after a certain amount of time? After every relatively serious fall? <Q> Helmets should be replaced roughly every 5 years and after any crash where your head makes contact with the ground. <S> Helmets will crumble, compress or otherwise deform in sometimes hard to see ways when you hit the deck. <S> The structural integrity of the thing will be massively diminished after even a relatively tame fall. <S> This is one area where you don't want to mess around much. <A> When to replace a bicycle helmet: <S> Any fall that impacted the helmet. <S> There can easily be hard to see cracks, crumbling or compression of the foam; and all of those will make the helmet less effective. <S> If you dropped it pretty hard and there's any likelihood of damage. <S> If the outer shell is separating from the foam. <S> The shell helps protect your neck. <S> Also, if the shell is separating it may indicate the foam has compressed. <S> One of the ways that a helmet protects you is by helping your head to slide across rough surfaces instead of sticking, so if the helmet surface is now rough instead of smooth you lose that protection. <A> The general rule is every 3-4 years or after a crash. <S> Some people say that excessive sweat or UV exposure can also degrade your helmet, but no one has proven that so far. <A> Why are you using a helmet? <S> If you're using it because you're doing something which involves a decent probability of you falling and hitting your head, then you should probably replace it after every serious incident. <S> Some companies (e.g. Giro) will give you a discount if you trade in a damaged lid , so that they can learn from its demise. <S> If you're commuting or doing something less dangerous, but which offers some scenarios where you think a lid will assist, then you might be less concerned about replacing after every ding. <S> But the helmet is designed to work when pristene; as soon as there is damage, any damage , it won't act in the way that is was designed to, so is going to offer you a sub-optimal service. <S> But if you're just using a helmet because you think you should, although remain generally unconvinced (peer pressure, race rules, certain state/national legal obligations, enhanced air flow around the scalp), then don't worry about it ... <A> Bicycle helmets are designed to absorb impact by cracking or crumbling. <S> The insides of the helmet may crack with no damage visible on the outside. <S> I'd replace the helmet as soon as you can. <A> Dents, maybe, it depends how bad they are. <S> Better safe than sorry right? <A> Inspect the helmet for damage inside and out. <S> If you see any cracks, then it's time to replace it. <S> If not, you're fine. <S> You don't want to risk your cranium when you could just buy another helmet. <A> It depends what you use it for. <S> The primary advantage I have from my helmet is not hitting the branches with my head, when riding in forest. <S> For that I don't need a new one each 2 years. <S> I even heard that this is actually what bike helmets were made for in the first place.
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If there's visible damage to your helmet, like a crack, then you should definitely replace it. If the outer shell has any significant scuffing.
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What are the 'easiest' ways to determine functional threshold power? I recently picked up a powertap and have done a fair bit of riding around and a few races now with it on, so I've started to get familiar with some of the numbers. I would like to figure out what my functional threshold power (FTP) is and would like to know which methods are more accurate. I know a 40km time trial is sort of the gold standard, but I find these so mentally tough that it's nearly impossible for me to give an honest effort outside of a race situation. Nothing is going to be easy, I imagine as any interpolated ways of doing this will probably require maximum effort for a certain amount of time, but I'm hoping there is a reasonably accurate method that is easier mentally and physically. <Q> First, get 'Training and Racing w/ <S> a Power Meter' by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan. <S> So incredibly helpful in learning about your device. <S> Second, use WKO+ for analysis. <S> I have been using it for 4 years and it is fantastic. <S> In reference to you question, I typically use the 20 min time trial as a good way of setting my training zones. <S> After a solid warm up (typically with a 5 min LT--->V02 effort) and then proper rest <S> I do a flat 20 min TT. <S> I take the avg. <S> power from that TT (not the norm. <S> power) and multiply by .95 <S> (or take 5% off, whatever is easiest). <S> For example: a 300 watt average over 20 mins would indicate an FTP of 285. <S> What I do after that is keep an eye on my IF (intensity factor) and my TSS (training stress score). <S> If that is all gibberish to you I would recommend getting the book! <S> http://www.peakscoachinggroup.com/Archivedarticles/Determining%20Your%20Lactate%20Threshold.pdf http://home.trainingpeaks.com/power411.aspx <A> Joe Friel claims a 30-minute TT which is not part of a race (ie, when the athlete is less motivated) estimates FTP. <S> Other estimations of FTP include the NP from a hard 1 hour mass start race. <S> See this 7 deadly sins article for more. <A> There are lots of different field tests approaches. <S> I've been using the Carmichael one (two 9-minute full out TTs with a cooldown between them). <A> You might interest a friend of similar skill in a 40km time trial? <S> You could both work on beating the other which might help you with the mental toughness outside of a race. <A> I wrote a quick guide outline some of the best and effective testing methods you can use. <S> These are word for word how they are delivered to my own athletes. <S> Enjoy! <S> How to find your functional threshold
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He also suggests FTP can be estimated from weight and age , though clearly this is only going to hold for athletes who are similarly trained.
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Mountain Bike on Paved Roads I'm an occasional biker. I bought a mountain bike (nothing fancy) with the idea that I might use it off-road or on mountain trails (of which there are many here in Calgary). However, since I've bought it I've done nothing but bike in the city on streets and paved bike trails. Is there anything worth doing to my bike to convert it to something more suited to urban biking? In particular, the tires have me wondering; they have large rubber off-roading lugs that surely aren't doing me any favors on pavement. I'm not looking to spend a tons of money on a retrofit, but will do so if its worthwhile. <Q> You can get a set of slicks or semi-slick tires that will reduce your rolling resistance. <S> I have a snap on rear fender that goes on any bike I'm riding if it's raining (outside of races). <S> I hate having a wet butt. <A> I am in the same situation and I was much happier after I picked up some more appropriate tires. <S> I went with a set of Serfas Drifters, which actually have an inverted tread so that you don't have to worry about going off road if you want. <S> I even use them quite a bit for light trail riding. <S> As long as you can avoid mud, loose uphills, etc you are fine. <S> It was like night and day after switching to thinner and less knobby tires. <S> And it isn't just the nobs <S> , you want a thinner tire also for even less rolling resistance. <S> I went with a 1.5" width. <S> The first time I tried mounting these, I used my MTB tubes and I swear I broke a tire iron trying to get it on the rim. <A> Another thing you could consider would be getting a larger large-chainring if you find yourself hitting top speed often on the streets. <A> for urban riding you can use lighting if you often ride at dark, and don't forget to get some lock to your bike. <S> better safe than sorry <A> Almost 9 years have passed since this question has been asked. <S> Technology have evolved quite a bit now and somethings you may want to get: 1) <S> Action Cam <S> Largely for safety reasons. <S> In case of any accidents, you can have evidence to strengthen your defence or to claim damages against the other party. <S> These are pretty reasonably priced .. can get a very decent one for less than US$100. <S> Just remember to buy the mount when buying one. <S> Bike mount is good <S> but if like me, a food delivery rider .. <S> a helmet mount may be more practical 2) <S> Lights - Super bright lights with USB charging Again for safety reasons. <S> And USB charging cos the prices have come down quite a bit and the battery life have improved too. <S> My battery operated ones are costing a hell of a lot over time .. <S> I find them very useful for getting attentions at junctions where cars turn out into your lane. <S> Or on pavements, it acts as a "silent bell" to notify the pedestrians in front of you. <S> 3) <S> Rear Mirrors <S> Low tech and really cheap. <S> No need to keep looking back for oncoming vehicles. <S> May also double up as a reflector .. <S> Just note that will most be mounted onto (or near) <S> the ends of your handlebars .. <S> you have a slightly wider profile .. <S> so be careful when manoeuvring tight spaces 4) Anti-puncture tyres <S> In urban riding .. there tend to be more debris like broken glasses .. <S> tiny metal bits .. <S> etc .. <S> I got sick and tired of fixing punctures .. <S> after I started using my Schwalbe Marathon .. had a peaceful 4 years without any .. <S> and the one I got recently .. <S> I'll attribute it to the thinning rubber after all the wear. <A> Depending on where you're riding and what you're taking, a rear rack might be worth the investment. <A> I'm a Calgary rider, too (15km each way). <S> And they have kevlar threads <S> so are pretty rugged and puncture resistant. <S> They're slick enough to not provide much rolling resisitance. <S> Makes a HUGE difference while riding.
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If you're using it to commute lots as well then fenders are awesome to keep the rain off. Also, make sure you pick up some tubes that are the right size for the tire! The best thing I can recommend is to get a set of Armadillo Crossroads - they've got some traction, and I use them year round (until the ice builds up and I get out the studded tires).
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How much should I inflate my tires? I just purchased a new bicycle pump with a pressure gauge and after checking my tyres, inflated them to the top end of interval printed on the tyres (4.5-6.5 bar). I'm wondering when the tyres should be in the lower range of the interval, and when the higher end is appropriate. Is it a question of weight? Type of terrain I'm going to ride? The tyres in question are Schwalbe Kojaks , mounted on a light urban hybrid bike. <Q> My general rule of thumb is 10-15% lower than the posted maximum for normal road riding. <S> Higher if you're carrying a load or are a larger rider, lower if you're a lighter rider. <S> There's an article in Bicycle Quarterly <S> that's a pretty good guide on tire pressure for road riding depending on weight and width of tire. <S> http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf <A> Well, I am a large rider and I was advised (and seen) that I need to keep my tires to the max before each ride. <S> If I do a long ride - over 2 hours - I have to make sure to check and inflate accordingly. <S> I ride 700cc road tires and with my weight a tire that starts to slack gets a "pinch flat". <S> Basically the tube pinches inside the tire. <S> If you are riding a bike with "knobbie" tires like a mountain bike, you can get away with less too. <A> A higher pressure will be faster and 'harder' (less suspension); a lower pressure will be slower (more rolling resistance) and smoother (it'll ooze over cracks and bumps). <S> I was told that the 'max pressure' is just a guideline and that in practice you can go a little higher. <A> I think this question has the best answer: <S> What pressure should I run my Mountain Bike tires at?
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If you are a very light rider, you can get away with a little less. I think my tires say 85 psi maximum, and I inflate them to 95 (not because I'm especially heavy but because I'd prefer to go faster with less effort than smoother).
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What type of chain lube is best for winter riding? I've read a lot about wet vs dry chain lube and there doesn't seem a definitive answer on whether to use wet or dry chain lube in the winter. Some forums are full of people saying they only use dry lube because it doesn't wash off as easy, then other forums are full of people saying the opposite, for the opposite reason! What type of chain lube is best for winter riding (water, gritted roads etc) <Q> Personally I would go with the finish line wet as opposed to the dry. <S> Typically I use the dry if I want something that will keep my chain looking clean as well as lubricated. <S> From personal experience I have found that I need to reapply the dry lube more often. <S> I will use a wet lube, sparingly mind you, for the nastier conditions. <A> My experience has been that the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for. <S> Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions. <S> Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet "gunk" left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc. <A> I use a product called 'Purple Extreme' , originally developed for offshore oil rig components. <S> I guess it is 'dry', because it dries on the chain (although you can use it immediately, they recommend letting it dry on first). <A> I've never had much luck with dry lube. <S> It has very low viscosity and feels like it washes off easily. <S> I use <S> Finish Line Wet lube all year round. <S> It's cheap, widely available and clean when applied carefully. <S> I apply by taking the chain off the bike, cleaning it and dropping a couple of drops on each link, allowing it to soak in and then wiping off the excess. <S> Sounds fiddly but it doesn't take long and you get lube where you need it (inside the links) and not where you don't (everywhere else). <A> I'm a big fan of Pro Gold. <S> Year round, all weather. <S> http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm <S> Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment. <S> So think lubricating metal in adverse conditions. <S> Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally. <S> It's available online though. <A> I just recently mixed Finish Line Dry with 0.5 micron hexagonal boron nitride powder, a.k.a. white graphite. <S> Night and day! <S> And the HBN seems to add a lot more staying power.
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Having wasted your time with that I would say that storage temperature/location, how you clean the chain (method, frequency and intensity) and how you apply the lube (gobs vs. sparingly on each link) is more important than the type of lube.
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Converting an existing cyclocross bike to disc brakes I have a bike (Surly Crosscheck) that is used for commuting and cyclocross. As it's a bit older and disc brakes were not legal for 'cross until recently, it has cantilever brakes for optimal mud clearance. They also kind of suck for commuting in a rainy city with panniers. I have been debating doing a conversion to discs for this bike, but I don't really know what I'd need to replace, so a list would be highly helpful, then I can price it out and decide whether or not I should just buy a new bike... Possibly I could also keep the cantilever on the rear and just go with a disc on the front for good stopping. Presumably the wheels and front fork at the least would need to change. As would the brifters as those probably pull differently. What else would I need? <Q> Hydraulics for your drop bar bike might be difficult to acquire. <S> I believe that someone made a cable actuated hydraulic brake ... <S> it was downright terrible. <S> The clamp on adaptors are in my experience a nightmare. <S> They allow for greater vibration and therefore terrible noises. <S> First, check your bike for disc tabs. <S> If it doesn't have them you could have them welded onto your frame by a local builder. <S> As well this could be your opportunity to upgrade your bike. <S> Haha. <S> As well it might be cheaper to simply purchase a new fork rather than have tabs welded on. <S> Who knows? <S> Second, check your wheels. <S> Do you have disc hubs? <S> If not you will minimum have to rebuild your wheels with a new hub. <S> Again, this might be the time to get a nice new set of wheels. <S> Or the opportunity you have been looking for to start building your own wheels. <S> Thirdly, what shifters do you have? <S> Does your crosscheck have barcons <S> w/ independent brake levers or STI style shifters? <S> This caliper has had the pull adjusted to accommodate road set ups. <S> If your setup features independent brake levers for the calipers the road bb7 is your best choice as well. <S> That's about all I've got for you. <S> If I can think of more ... <S> I'll be back. <A> You'll need new hubs to mount the disc on (probably whole new wheel). <S> They used to make clamp on adaptors for forks that didn't have disc mounts so you may just be able to get one of those and keep the fork you have. <S> You can go with cable discs (cheaper but not the same stopping power) or hydraulics (best stopping power but more $$). <A> I have done this conversion with my 2006 Specialized Sequoia. <S> However, I did only the front fork and wheel. <S> You don't need to change the Brifters. <S> Avid makes a mechanical disk brake ( BB7 ) that has a road version that works with standard brifters. <S> ( I use Shimano 105 on my bike ). <S> http://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb7-road-mechanical-disc-brake <S> You will need a new front fork, wheel and the BB7 brake. <S> Nashbar makes a low budget carbon Cross disk fork, I used a Winwood for my project. <S> http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175019_-1_201511_10000_201514 <S> On a Surly CrossCheck, the geometry might be tweaked a bit, but it should be pretty close to the original. <S> I build my own wheels, but if you can find a "29'er" front wheel with 9mm QR that should work just fine. <S> www.blueskycycling.com has a easton front wheel that is pretty cheap. <S> You can buy bolt on adapters for the rear wheel, but IMHO <S> it's just not worth the hassle and expense. <S> google site: <S> www.bikemag.com <S> braketherapy
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Disk brakes do help a lot, but I think it's not worth the hassle that a retrofit on the rear wheel requires. If you have STI style shifters then AVID makes a bb7 road disc caliper. Ensure that you can build the wheels in a nice dependable 3 cross pattern to resist wind up.
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Studded tires for small wheels I'd it possible to purchase 16" studded tires? I have an old Dahon I use as a winter bike, and I'd like to replace the tires with proper snow tires if this is possible. If not, has anyone here successfully made studded tires from smaller-wheeled knobbies? <Q> You can buy roofing nails for very cheap, and put lots of studs on the tire (most commercially available studded tires don't have that many studs). <S> Push the nails through from the inside of the tire, wherever you want them. <S> It's a good idea to put some on the rolling surface, and some on the sides for cornering. <S> Once you have placed all your nails, put a layer (or two) of duct tape over the heads of the nails to protect the tube. <S> You'll probably need to trim the nails down to the desired length with metal clippers. <S> That's all there is to it! <S> Scroll down on this page for DIY instructions. <A> Now, however, there are: http://www.schwalbe.com/en/pressereader/spikes-for-birdy-and-brompton.html <S> But unfortunately there are two different 16" rim sizes, and the new Schwalbes are 349mm (as used by Brompton), and 16" Dahon is 305mm. <S> It might be possible to fit a Brompton sized wheel in some 16" Dahons, but I wouldn't bet on it. <S> It's possible to fit a 20" wheel in a Birdy, but only with a skinny tyre, so the new 18" makes a studded Birdy possible.) <A> I have two links for you: <S> First you can by <S> Schwalbe Ice Spiker tires at MEC in Canada <S> (The reviews are quite favorable). <S> Here is a list of different studded tires on the market. <A> The best option is to make your own tires as previously stated. <S> Since you don't like the idea of using nails or screws as studs, (which I agree with), try using pop rivets instead. <S> It is more time consuming, but they work better, are more durable, and will stay in place better than a nail or screw. <S> Use a small, sharp drill, usually 1/8", and drill through the knobs of the tire from the inside of the casing. <S> Select a pop rivet which will just protrude from the knob of the tire. <S> Stainless steel is most durable. <S> Place 2-4 rivets approximately every 4 inches around the tire. <S> (On a 16 inch tire, 2 inches might be better.) <S> Fill the divot created by the compression of the rivet on the inside of the tire with silicon. <S> That prevents the back of the rivet from popping the tube when installed. <S> I hope this helps.
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EDIT: I have had luck with nails in the past, but on looking around at studded tire designs online, I realize that screws may in fact be a better option, as they will better resist backing out, and would be easier to replace. The best thing to do is make your own studded tires from the old tires you have. At the time the question was asked, there were no 16" studded bike tyres. (Since the title asks about "small wheels" and readers with other size small wheels might find it in a search: 20" studded tyres, as used by different Dahons, have been available for a while, e.g. Marathon Winter .
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What range of sprockets is useful in a road bike cassette? My road bike currently has a 27/39/53 crankset and a 13-26 cassette, both of which need to be replaced. I occasionally find myself in both extremes—while heading up the very steep hills of the Bay Area the lowest gearing sometimes isn't enough and on much of a downhill grade my legs can't keep up in the highest. Is it worth going to a wider range on the front or rear? <Q> Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears. <S> There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out. <S> If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range) <S> you may find that you're never quite in the "right" gear for all of the in-between situations. <S> I'm using a 11-32 cassette on my road bike (with a MTB derailleur for more capacity). <S> I have plenty of climbing gears but rarely use the small cogs since I spin at around 90rpm. <S> Like the Bay Area, there are a lot of hill around here. <S> But I find the jumps between gears too big (either spins too easily or too hard) <S> so am looking for a narrower range cassette. <S> If you want just a bit more range for climbing, you'll need to jump up to at least a 28-tooth large cog (you'll barely notice the difference going from 26 to 27) which might require a long-cage derailleur. <S> On the high end, a 12-tooth cog will be a noticeable difference over your 13. <S> Since you're used to a compact range you probably don't want to go with a much bigger cassette. <S> Sheldon Brown has a great gearing calculator that you can play with to see what different combinations will give you. <A> Depending on your drivetrain you might be able to fit a 11-32 MTB cassette, though you'll probably need an MTB rear derailleur too. <S> The jumps between ratios on wider cassettes can be annoying, though. <A> It certainly sounds like you should look at going to a wider range of gears. <S> Your triple on the front already seems like a pretty wide range, and unlikely to easily get a wider range up there, so <S> I'm thinking you'd mostly be looking at a wider range on the cassette. <S> The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range. <S> You should definitely pay attention to the actual gear ratios. <S> Right now your low end is basically 1:1 and your high end is 4.1:1. <S> A smallest sprocket of 11 instead of 13 (without changing from a 53) would get you to 4.8:1 for your highest gear, which is about an 18% improvement and could easily be enough to get you the higher-end range <S> it sounds like you need. <S> Much more low end than that might require replacing the rear derailer, <S> but I've seen 11-34, etc, which would get your lowest gear down to 0.8:1. <S> Usually those have a specific "granny" gear on the back that's a big jump, which could still leave you with plenty of fine tuning in the rest of your gear range. <A> Another option to consider is a “ bottom bracket gear ”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5. <A> I highly recommend getting a compact crank (50/34) since for the vast majority of mere mortals a 53/39 crank is too much gearing. <S> It's a relatively cheap upgrade (about $300). <S> I pair mine with a 12-27 9 speed cassette. <S> Around here in Seattle, I find that there really aren't any hills I can't climb with the 34x27. <S> For my weight (160lbs) that lets me climb pretty much anything around here, including some hills with a 17%+ grade. <S> However, I'm finding that I could really use some additional gears so that I can pedal an optimal cadence. <S> I suspect a 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25 is in my future someday when I can do 5 min climbs at 300W+. <S> But that's a really expensive upgrade though since that involves swapping out my 9spd drivetrain for a 10spd one. <S> That will happen when I get a new bike ... <A> Since you have a triple you already have about as wide a range as you can get on the front (for practical purposes). <S> Before changing the rear you would want to make sure your derailleurs can handle the increased range of teeth. <S> If you go to the manufacturers' websites (I'm guessing.... <S> Shimano?) <S> you can look up the tooth capacity of those components. <S> If they will handle it, then you might be able to get a wider rear cassette that helps you. <A> If you like to visit very steep climb, I suggest using 50/34 for chainring and 12/27 10 speed12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27 for your sprocket, or 11-28 includes - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,2827 <S> or 28 is very usefull if you climb more than 25% grade... <S> I did 20% with 39/25....so every one is unique for this sprocket/chainring selection, depends on your leg :)
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A 12-27 cassette would give you a slightly wider spread of gears. Some careful selection (work out all your current gears and figure out what the new gears would be) could help a lot. But if you have a strong power output 53/39 chainring with 12-25 includes - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25 should be sufficient...
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non-steel frames and longevity Until recently, I had a late 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike (now a thief has a 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike, but that's another story). I had heard a number of horror stories about early aluminum frames--that the welds weren't properly done, or that the technology hadn't been perfected yet, that one should expect the frame to come apart any day, etc. I assume these kinds of rumors are being spread about carbon frames as well. Is there any hard evidence here? I know this is very hard to quantify because there were dozens of manufacturers, and there are/were lots of technologies being used. But is there any evidence, or is it just a cloud of Fear Uncertainty and Doubt? <Q> I ride aluminum frames almost exclusively and have had no problem with them. <A> I know in BMX, aluminium frames are too soft. <S> I had a frame and it was designed for racing <S> but I used it for dirt. <S> Did not take too long for the headset (was not setup loose) to ovalise due to it being not hard enough. <S> I did bodge this with shimmys from coke cans for awhile. <S> It's also not a wise idea to put pegs on an aluminium frame as it leads to bending the whole frame out of shape due to the force on the pegs. <A> I ride a 1999 Specialized Allez Pro with an M4 aluminum frame. <S> It's a great frame - light and extremely stiff. <S> Apparently it's had some problems with cracks around the dropouts, but I've had zero problems with mine. <S> I weigh 160 lbs FWIW. <S> You can see others' opinions on this bike over at roadbikereview: <S> http://www.roadbikereview.com/mfr/specialized/older-road-bike/PRD_18545_1610crx.aspx <S> Apparently it's a harsh ride, but it's been a long time since I rode my steel frame Miele with Columbus tubing in the 80's <S> so I don't have a great basis for comparison. <S> A carbon frame will be in my future sometime, but I'm spending my $$$ on stuff that will actually make me faster in the short term. <S> My Computrainer arrives next week :)
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The welds are what tend to break first on most bike you hear these horror stories about, but this can happen with any sort of weld (though some forms of welding are more effective than others), so if a bike seems to be too good of a deal to have an aluminum frame, make sure to check out the welds, for those could very well be the deal breaker.
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How to fix front gear taking 2 shifts just to move onto next cog I was out on a ride yesterday and several times when I was changing up and down between big chain ring and little chain ring (I only have the 2 rings up front) it required 2 gear changes. The gears actually settled on an imaginary middle cog! How can I fix this? <Q> I think Shimano integrated shifters ("brifters") for the front derailleur on a triple normally have 5 indexed positions: 1-3-5 are the main positions that match the chainrings and 2-4 are intermediate spots to avoid chain rub for some chainring+sprocket combinations. <S> If you give the front shift lever a short pull it will click once and the front derailleur moves one position. <S> Give it a full pull <S> and it should click twice, moving two positions. <S> Normally going up to a bigger ring <S> requires a 2-click upshift; sometimes you need to give it a one-click downshift afterwards to eliminate chain rub if you're in a larger rear cog. <S> Going down a ring may only take a 1-click downshift, depending on what position the derailleur is in. <S> All of this is based on my experience with a triple, but should work the same for a double. <S> If shifting problems are more noticable going up to a bigger ring (needs more clicks than before) <S> then this is probably due to cable stretch. <S> If you have a barrel adjuster on the front derailleur cable, try turning it counterclockwise (looking at it from the side where the cable housing enters it) to tension the cable a bit. <S> If the problem is when dropping down to a smaller ring, then either the cables are sticking somewhere (worn cables/housing) or the front derailleur is sticking (needs lubrication or has a worn spring). <A> This is probably down to the gear cables. <S> If the cables have been on the bike for some time then the problem is probably sticky cables, water and dirt get inside the cable outers and stop the shifter pulling enough cable through. <S> from your description this seems the most likely option. <S> You can try cleaning the cables but in my experience new cable inner and outers is the way to go. <A> I know my Sora group on my Trek has two lower positions. <S> If I'm in the lowest position then my chain will rub slightly on the smallest cassette gear. <S> I'll move it to the second position which doesn't shift it but removes the rub on the front derailleur. <S> When I shift up to the large chain ring from position two is goes fine. <S> When shifting down I need to shift two positions to get it onto the small chain ring. <S> The shifter is set for this and a full throw on it is two positions. <A> Happens on occasions on my good old 16 speed Shimano 105. <S> Typically not enough cable tension (tension up at a barrel or at the anchor). <S> Also dirt between the cable and a sheeve (inject oil into the sheeve or replace cables).
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If the cables are new they may have stretched a little and you'll need to take the slack out by adjusting the tension, you usually do this with a barrel adjuster either at the shifter or inline in the shifter cable. It is also possible that you have extra positions on the shifters to accommodate the chainline.
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Is there a difference in having tires filled with CO₂ vs air? When you fill your tire with a CO₂ cartridge you are obviously putting CO₂ into it. When you use a pump you are putting air into it. Are there significant temperature variations that may lead to poor or better performance when using one or the other? For instance, if you fill a tube with CO₂ and another with air at same temperature and then the temperature rises 10°F, will one be more likely to explode than the other? What precautions must be taken when using one vs. the other? <Q> This is a debate that gets picked up on every bicycle forum known to man (okay, that might have been exaggerating a bit). <S> Typically you start to ask the question when you notice that the morning after you have used your CO2 cartridge, your tyre is ridiculously low. <S> By no means am I a chemist but, as it has been explained to me, CO2 and butyl are more soluble than N2/O2 and butyl. <S> Most tubes are constructed from butyl (fancy pants cyclists will sometimes use Latex tubes, haha). <S> Due to the increased solubility you can expect that a CO2 inflated tyre will need re-inflating sooner than one you pump up by hand. <S> http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/may98/895552329.Ch.r.html <S> While the explanation above is dealing w/ escape from balloons I am going to assume that we can take that information and apply it to our discussion. <S> Now, if i am incorrect (which I often am) please let me know! <S> I just noticed I didn't tackle the temperature issue. <S> I do know that temperatures exceeding 50 degrees celcius (above 125 farenheit) can result in the potential for ... explosive fun, in regards to CO2 canisters. <S> http://www.stayfill.com <S> This company has a proprietary gas blend that won't leak from your tubes apparently ... ... ... <A> The air we breathe is made up of 78% nitrogen (N2) and 21% oxygen (O2), with trace gases making up the rest. <S> So the easiest comparison is between N2 and CO2. <S> As far as pressure changes go, they should both follow the ideal gas law which states that the pressure in your tire has a direct relationship to the temperature of the gas inside it. <S> The density of the air molecules doesn't matter, just how many there are. <S> Whether its N2 or CO2, that relationship remains the same. <S> So to answer your question, a 10degF change should affect the pressure of a CO2-filled tire about the same as an N2-filled tire. <S> I'm curious about the higher density though, that would mean that a CO2-filled tire will have more rotating mass... <A> Check out this article and the pressure tests of air, CO2, and nitrogen at the end: http://www.powertank.com/truth.or.hype/ <A> I have never noticed a significant difference between the two. <S> CO2 is great on a ride because using mini pumps, well, it just isn't fun.
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N2 is less dense than CO2 but otherwise they're very similar (to your tires) unless you somehow find yourself riding in temperatures near their liquidation points -- in which case you have bigger things to worry about. at normal temperatures (human life temperatures) and pressures all gases behave about the same with temperature variation.
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does a tire bead 'jack' work? I'm having great difficulties getting a kevlar belted tire onto my rim (maybe I'm getting old). I had heard about the Kool-Stop tire bead jack as a possible alternative to using just my tire levers. Has anyone used these things? Am I signing myself up for a pinch flat? <Q> Interesting tool. <S> I haven't used one but can sympathize after breaking many tire levers with my old tire+rim combination. <S> It's no fun being in the middle of nowhere and snapping a lever while fixing a flat. <S> I've since switched tires (and later the rims) and can now roll the tires over the rim by hand -- what a difference! <S> Unless you plan on taking this tool with you on rides, you may want to look at tires that are easier to work with (if this one is new, you can probably exchange it at your LBS). <S> Otherwise a single flat could end your ride. <S> For beefy plastic levers, I'm now using a set of Pedro's. <S> They're about 3-4 times the size of the ones I had before and were strong enough to wrestle my bad old tires back onto the rim before I switched. <S> This will make it hug the inside of the tire instead of getting caught between the tire and the rim. <A> I've used a Quik Stik for about 17 years pretty successfully. <S> Not totally free of pinch flats, but I think using darkcanuck's technique of putting a bit of air in the tube first really helps. <S> Much better than regular tire levers, although it actually seems to be softening after all these years. <S> Rumor has it that certain brands of kevlar-beaded tires are a lot harder to mount safely (as in free of pinch flats), notably Vittoria, and that was my experience with them too. <A> With the few problem tires that I've dealt with, I find that they always get easier to mount after successive changes due to the beads stretching. <S> I haven't tried stretching a bead in advance before, but you might be able to do it by hooking the tire under your foot, pull upward, rotate tire, repeat. <S> It only needs to stretch a bit before it will mount, so don't kill yourself. <A> As with any tight tire-rim combination, you still have to be careful not to pinch the tube. <S> However, I've found it a lot easier to keep the tool from pinching the tire when compared to using tire levers (I've given up on trying to use levers to put a tire back on--just too easy to damage the tube). <S> It can still be a bit of a hassle until you get the hang of it because you will pull up on one spot using the jack and the tire will slip off on another spot. <S> The tool is light-weight enough that you could carry it with you, though it's somewhat large. <S> You would need to keep it in a pannier or would need an extra-ordinarily large saddle/frame bag. <S> For $10, I'd definitely recommend it over any other tool or solution I've found short of buying a different rim/tire combination.
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To avoid pinch getting flats while putting the tire back on, try putting a bit more air in the tube. I have used the Bead Jack a few times now with great success.
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What's the cheapest way to get into training with power? I used to train with a stopwatch, and later on, heart-rate. Both required relatively inexpensive tools. Now I'm interested in training with power (measuring the watts produced) and I'm finding that the tools are at least an order-of-magnitude more expensive. I was hoping the ANT+ standard would drive down prices a bit. <Q> There is a new website/download/software package called TrainerRoad <S> that will allow you to train with Virtual Power for the price of a Trainer, ANT+ stick, Speed/Cadence sensor and $10/month subscription. <S> Checkout the compatible hardware page (linked on the main page) to see if you already have a trainer on their list of known power curves. <S> If not the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine has a very consistent power curve and is available just over $300. <S> Add an ANT+ stick ($20-$40 online) to plug into your computer <S> , it will pickup the signal from the speed/cadence sensor. <S> Add a Speed/Cadence sensor (Garmin <S> $25+ - Timex <S> $37+) Optional (for virtual power) is an ANT+ HR strap <S> You could start to use the Virtual Power (with nothing but your bike and computer to start with) for under $400, much less if you already have a compatible trainer. <S> The $10 subscription can be canceled anytime and they offer a 30 day money back guarantee, so almost free to try it. <A> The expense is usually due to the physical hardware needed. <S> Somewhere along the way some device needs to measure the power output. <S> But how? <S> Well inside the hub seems like the most common version. <S> Thus you need a wheel build around a 'heavier' hub to get this to work, and thus is never cheap. <S> Polar had a power sensor I never could figure out how it worked, but it had an external sensor along the drive train side back stay. <S> It supposedly watched the chain tension, on top of cadence and wheel speed to calculate power. <S> But that silly sensor was close to $500 or more at the time I looked at it. <S> Still seemed like Voodoo to me, personally. <S> A friend relied on it, and thought it was pretty good and accurate. <S> ANT+ is just a data transport protocol, which makes the send/receive module cheaper and more common, but for power, the rest of the sensor is the expensive part. <A> Here's a listing for $399 for a complete wheel with a Mavic open pro rim: http://cgi.ebay.com/Cycleops-PowerTap-PRO-Rear-Wheel-Mavic-Open-Pro-700c-/310247397790?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483c2f999e <S> You'll still need to find a wired Saris head unit though, and it won't work with the fancier new head units like the Garmin Edge 500, but that's pretty cheap. <A> They're expensive because they use highly-sensitive strain gauges and require careful calibration. <S> A lot of design has to go into working out how to overcome external factors like temperature changes while at the same time producing a light and weatherproof system. <S> I only have experience with Powertap systems. <S> The cheapest is probably a Powertap <S> Elite+ (£540, cyclepowermeters.com ) hub built into a cheap, workmanlike rim (Open Pro, £100?) and coupled with a Garmin Edge 500 computer (£145, Handtec ). <S> The Elite+ is heavy but has a stiff steel axle and is ANT+ compatible. <S> Second-hand systems might be cheaper but watch out -- they can be expensive to repair if dodgy. <S> Common Powertap problems are duff bearings, miscalibration or broken torque tubes (expensive). <S> There are various indirect systems like the Polar (mentioned in another answer) or the iBike , which works out power from rolling resistance (friction, wind, gradient) and rider weight. <S> They say it works fine; I've never tried it. <A> The CycleOps PowerCal is a good, inexpensive way to get introduced to power. <S> It uses a derivative of your heart rate to estimate power over a period of time. <S> It also doubles as a heart rate monitor. <S> http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/power-meters/powercal.html <S> It is not suitable for short intervals or instantaneous power <S> the way other power meters are. <S> Rather it is good for comparing relative power output over a given period of time (usually a few minutes). <S> It works very well for understanding your power output on long sustained climbs or moderate to long sprints. <S> There are some excellent reviews of the PowerCal with comparisons to other power meters. <S> It is actually quite accurate when used for its intended purpose. <S> http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/cycleops-powercal-in-depth-review.html <A> My first answer is specific to where you live, I could not mentally justify the big ticket price for a power meter (let alone a garmin as well) <S> but when I found that when stages power meters were coming out with they would be 40% cheaper in US than the would be in the UK/Europe. <S> All this meant I had to do <S> was to be able to afford the power meter, garmin for the data and the book training and racing with a power meter <S> was buy and sell enough power meters to pay for it. <S> This meant I had to trade roughly 20 power meters with a 10% profit margin on each sale to be able to afford my own gear. <S> So I suppose my answer is you have to find a way to pay for it, whether it means selling your older gear and stock piling the cash slowly and little by little or being a bit entrepreneurial.
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The older wired Powertap hubs go for pretty cheap on ebay.
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Recommendation for panniers used off the bike a lot I'm looking for panniers. I mostly just potter around town, and am not planning any cycle touring so my main criteria is that the panniers should be easy to carry around off the bike. Built in rucksack straps or a shoulder/cross-body strap would be good. Just a carry handle would not be enough for me. <Q> You might consider: Arkel Bug , which works as a backpack. <S> Quite modern, sporty look. <S> Ortlieb Downtown , which has a comfortable shoulder strap. <S> You might check other products of those two producers, if you need a bigger/smaller cargo capacity. <S> Both of these panniers are very easy to attach to your bike. <S> Perfect for your daily commuting needs and running errands. <A> I've tried several options here, including specialty options like Arkel's laptop bag with a shoulder strap. <S> There are some things that I didn't like about carrying panniers off-bike. <S> The attachment hardware adds extra weight that I'd prefer not to have. <S> The hardware always seem to find a way to bump into my side, even when it's covered. <S> And finally, sometimes I just don't to immediately be identified as a cyclist when I walk into room, based on the bags I'm carrying in.(Orange bags with reflective strips don't go great with formal attire and settings) <S> My recommendation is to choose a bag that works for you off-bike, and find a way to carry that bag on your bike. <S> For example, Clarijs makes some large size panniers that made to reside on the bike. <S> The would be large enough to drop another bag into: <S> Another option is a front rack. <S> Workcycles has a giant, masculine box if that's your thing. <S> It apparently isn't getting stolen while parked on the streets of Amsterdam, so it will likely survive live in your location as well: <S> Cargo bikes like the XtraCycle, Yuba Mundo and bakfiets also have permanent storage capacity in the form of standard bags or boxes, and this is what I'm used to using frequently myself now. <S> Here's the giant Go-Getter bag, which as you can see can easily swallow several other bags with in it: <S> It basically looks like a black shoulder bag. <S> It's designed as a kind of small courier bag, but it doesn't scream "CYCLIST ACCESSORY" when you walk into a room due the smaller form factor. <S> It is however basically waterproof and easy to fill and access. <S> For simple, shorter trips, I can cinch down the strap and where it over my shoulder like a courier bag. <S> For heavier loads or longer trips, I currently drop it into my XtraCycle bag and go. <A> I use an Altura pannier (or both if I'm caring a lot and need the full 46 capacity), and a detachable shoulder strap that I keep in the top pocket of the pannier. <S> It's on the bike most of the time, but when I need to take it off and carry it round the strap is always there handy, and the rixen & kaul fittings make the pannier easy to attach/detach. <S> It's not quite as comfortable as a dedicated over-the-shoulder-bag <S> (sometimes the pannier clips can get in the way as I'm walking about), but it's definitely good enough for what I need. <A> I have an Arkel Bug and an Arkel Briefcase , and I think that they are great. <S> Both have straps that can be used over the shoulders, in fact, a shoulder bag can be added to any pannier. <S> I use the Bug for my clothes, lunch, and tools, and the briefcase for my laptop and other work related items. <S> They are convenient to use easy to carry around, and Arkel makes high quality panniers. <S> They are pricey, but worth it. <S> The way that the laptop holder in the briefcase is built provides shock absorption. <S> It is worth noting that the backpack functionality of the bug is inferior to that of a regular backpack, there is always a metal bar on your back. <S> Arkel has one of the best attachment systems , it keeps the bags secure even without the bungee cord. <S> Jandd also makes great panniers and some of the best racks, but I found that their briefcase was poorly made when I tried it out in 2006 (same year I purchased the Arkel bags above). <S> They have changed the material and possibly the quality since then, so it might be worth checking out. <S> Another drawback is that it hangs sideways rather than 'right side up'. <A> I would suggest the Woodward Convertible from North St. Bags . <S> To be fair, I work for them, but given the nature of your inquiry and the tasks you're looking to achieve, this product is perfect. <S> We've designed the Woodward to work well both on and off the bike <S> and we have worked hard to make the transition process easy and quick. <A> Not to confuse anyone, but we at North St. Bags also make a second convertible pannier backpack, the Route 9 . <S> This bag is designed as more of a long haul touring option with less frequent on and off transition than that of our other bag, the Woodward Convertible . <S> Depending on the nature and length of your ride, you may prefer one design over the other. <S> But both are quick converting options that are great sellers for us. <S> The goal was an uber simple design, using quality Made in USA materials, made in house in Portland, Oregon. <S> We sell these bags to about 60 bike shops throughout the USA. <S> Also we have a sizable following in Japan and we do in fact ship worldwide direct to consumer. <A> I got a North St Bags Woodward Convertible Pannier/Backpack and use it all the time. <S> It has hidden backpack straps which make it easy to wear on your back and quickly converts to a standard pannier for mounting on your rack.
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Given all the above, my "off-bike pannier" is the Walking Bag by Courierware .
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What is the maximum number of pucture repairs an inner tube can take? Any thoughts - my spare tube that I carry in my bag currently has a dozen or so patches on it, but still works fine. I'm tempted to keep going to see how many I can get on there until it get impossible to mend. What is the most number of patches you reckon a tube can take ? (And I know new inner tubes are only £5 or so, but a puncture repair costs about 10p if you buy the patches and glue in bulk, so "It's cheaper to buy a new one" is not necessarily true...) <Q> I would carry at least one unpatched, pristine tube as a spare. <S> Put the patched ones on the bike or keep for repairs at home. <S> The idea being that when you need it -- in the middle of nowhere, in the dark and pouring rain -- you're guaranteed that the old patches aren't peeling off or weakened and the tube should "just work". <S> Then swap it for a patched tube when you get home if you like. <A> <A> I find the bigger problem is not the number of patches, but rather the age of the patches. <S> There is a correlation though, in that by the time you have patched a tube for the third time, I find that the first patch is starting to get a little suspect. <S> In my student days I would patch a tube four or five times, but I often had patches eventually fail. <S> Nowadays I draw the line at two. <S> Tubes are just too cheap to have one fail on you in the middle of a ride. <S> The time and inconvenience of having to change a tube that has failed is not worth the money, especially since it always seems to happen on wet windy nights!
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When the patches start to overlap, or you are fixing old patches that have failed, it is time to get a new tube.
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Is it safe to ride a dual suspension bike in sub freezing temps? I have a Giant VT3 with dual suspension and I'm thinking of using it as a winter bike is there any special care I should take before heading out into the cold? <Q> If you're riding in temperatures that are only a few degrees below zero, I wouldn't worry too much. <S> As suggested elsewhere, make sure you keep a closer eye on maintenance (brushing off snow/ice, lubrication, etc). <S> The colder it gets though, the greater the risk that drivetrain components will fail. <S> I've had at least free hubs, where the pawls would stop engaging (i.e. no forward propulsion). <S> I'd say that all your parts will be more brittle in such conditions, so take it easier on your bike than you would normally. <S> Also, I've heard anecdotally that it's better to store your bike at sub-freezing temperatures if you ride regularly in the cold. <S> The reasoning is that the snow and ice on your bike won't melt and find it's way into moving parts. <S> This will be more important with the pivots on a dual suspension. <A> If you have air shocks, front or rear, be mindful of temperature impact on pressure. <S> If you store your bike at about +20 C (room temperature) and ride it out into -10 to -20 C (seriously freezing weather), after a moment you will experience about 10% pressure drop in your shocks (and tires, too). <S> While 10% is not much, it can cause a noticeable change in shock's characteristics i.e. cause it to become softer. <S> Of course, in winter that may not be such a bad thing... <A> If you're running oil in the forks then you might want to look at switching out for something that's meant for the colder temps but other than that <S> I think it should be fine. <S> Rinse it off after every ride with some water and store it where it can dry. <A> I used to ride every day straight through winter when I was in college. <S> It doesn't even have to get below 0 for this to happen. <S> You need to replace the lube with all synthetic lube if it doesn't have it already. <A> Years of winter riding in Vermont - never a problem with both oil and air suspension. <S> Used Hayes's disc brakes which use the automotive brake fluid (DOT whatever). <S> No problems, though I suspect the disc brakes which use mineral oil may have a problem.
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The problem with suspension bikes is that the suspension freezes up at cold temps. The biggest thing I'd worry about is the salt/sand on the bike.
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Why does my rear derailleur keep breaking? I upgraded my rear-mech with a new cassette, chain and new cables a few weeks ago since then i've mangled two rear mechs! Both times I've just been riding along; not in a big gear; not at the extremes of the cassette, the mech just seems to get caught on something (the chain?) and bends and snaps! I've got to buy a 3rd mech and I'm wondering why it's happening, is it just bad luck? The mech I replaced (an ageing XTR) I'd had for years without any miss-hap but now I've mangled two XT mechs, one was a Shadow and the one prior to that was a standard. Any sugggestions? <Q> Did you change the chain after the first derailleur broke? <S> Another thing to watch out for is loose pannier straps (or anything else that could get caught in the chain and take out the derailleur). <A> It turns out that this could have been caused by breaking and joining a Shimano chain without using the correct connector pin. <S> The final time I got the derailer replaced along with the chain <S> and it's been fine. <A> If your chain is too long, and you are in the 'small-small' combination, it is possible for the derailleur to sort of fold up on itself. <S> Flip your bike over and put it in the smallest gear up front and the smallest gear in the rear and make sure the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur.
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If the same chain was on and you're positive the derailleur didn't connect with the spokes, then the chain is a likely culprit.
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New, cheap mountain bike: What's most likely to break? I have a very cheap (less than USD $100), new mountain bike I'm about to break in on a 2-4 hour ride on a mountain trail. I'd like to be prepared for equipment failures or problems - can anyone suggest what's most likely to break (or have problems) first? I already have a spare inner tube (and pump!) to handle a punctures, and expect to have a sore rear end, anything else? (thanks for the articles warning about cheap bikes - I should probably add that I will use this bike only once a year at most, and can't afford a better one anyway - if not for cheap bikes I'd just be walking. For anyone coming across this question considering buying a very cheap bike, see the link posted in the comments and make sure you know what you're getting into!) Update: Thanks for the answers so far. Thought I'd do a quick post-mortem for anyone interested. I went on the ride (Oaks fire trail, very scenic, good fun - Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia). I managed to escape without notable failures on the bike, though I think the cheap suspension fork had already seized up and the derailleur only changed gears when in the right mood. In our group of 15, we had 3 flat tyres and a broken chain (all on $1000+ bikes, oddly enough - maybe they were just riding them harder). The most unexpected problem was with replacing punctured tubes on the expensive bikes. The tube valve hole in the fancy rims wouldn't fit the spare tube's larger (standard car size) valve, and many pumps couldn't fit the fancy tubes (to re-inflate them once patched). <Q> Information about the specific components would help. <S> I am not sure what will break first, but the derailleurs will probably be the first component to need servicing - especially if you purchased this bike from a sporting goods retailer instead of a bike shop. <S> Brakes will probably be needing some love in the near future. <S> If you ride on trails at all the fork will probably end up needing some maintenance quickly. <S> The wheels will also probably go out of true pretty quickly as well. <S> One thing you can do to help keep the bike in good running order is to frequently put chain lube on your chain to keep it, your derailleurs, and cassette well lubricated. <A> Cheap “mountain” bikes are not up to mountain tracks! <S> However cheap “mountain” bikes are good on roads that have some pot holes and are easier for most people to ride then a road bike (but a lot slower). <S> They also allow you go along tracks that have some mud or a few rough spots. <S> If you are nice to your bike, and don’t expect it to cope with any hard of road usage, I would not expect anything to break quickly. <S> However you will have to adjust your derailleur and brakes, trim your wheels and tighten up loose bolts and nuts a lot more often than on a quality bike. <S> You may well find the first think to break <S> is your will to put up with a cheap bike! <A> When I was fixing bikes for Christmas Anonymous we got a fair number of Wally World grade "mountain bikes". <S> The most common failure was probably the shifters. <S> Twist grip shifters were bad on about half the bikes that had them. <S> Otherwise, damaged wheels were probably the biggie. <S> (Though it may be that some of these were garage accidents vs from riding.) <S> Of course, bearings always needed tuning up and wheels needed truing, but that's not uncommon for any bike that hasn't been maintained since it was unboxed. <S> The bikes actually appear to withstand considerable abuse. <S> The only structural problems we saw were really old, rusty bikes, or bikes that had apparently been damaged in the garage. <S> I'm guessing <A> Becareful, I've heard from fellow riders of kids tackling Welsh tracks (notably the Marin Trail in North Wales), and the suspension fork riping itself loose from the front of the frame. <S> The split happened where the cross bar and down bar (right name?) meet the headset. <S> Apparently the kid had got the bike for christmas and rode a couple of trails, and literally the welds weren't strong enough the frame pulled itself apart. <S> Now that's a scare story, not to mention a parents nightmare! <S> I heard the kid was very lucky, and escaped with cuts and bruises. <S> Personally I've taken a Raleigh Activator (about £200 new, 15 years ago) along the same trail and managed to bend the front forks quite considerably. <S> Mind you that was a steel frame, and <S> the aforementioned story probably was done on a aluminium frame. <S> Of course, it all depends on the welding, as I've crashed a old steel road bike and the welding came apart on the rear chain stays. <S> So just becareful have fun, and if you see any hairline cracks appearing on the frame. <S> Get off, and push it home.
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If you would not consider walking along the track in a pair of sandals, then the bike will likely break very soon if you use it on the track. that tire, drive train, and shifter problems are far more common than any sort of structural failure.
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What is the best floor pump? I'm looking for a pump at home to use with my high pressure (100-120 psi) road bike tires. My bike has presta valves, but I would like to be able to use it on Schrader valves, should I get a bike with them. Who has a floor pump that they like? <Q> I have a Specialized pump which works very well for both high-volume and high pressure tires. <S> I've also used a couple of different Joe Blow pumps from Topeak , which worked pretty well. <S> In light of this, I'm of the opinion that your best bet is to hit up your LBS and see what they have, and what you like using. <S> For me, handle shape and size plays a big part (you need comfort to pump up a 26"x4" tire). <S> Some require you to screw off a cap and flip something over, others can have a two-sided head, and others (like my Specialized) have a head that works for both without any changes. <A> I have a 15+ year old Silca floor pump with a gauge and Presta attachment plus a screw-on Schrader adapter. <S> I replaced a gasket about 4 years ago. <S> I ride a lot <S> so it gets frequent use. <S> That being said, if I were in the market for a new floor pump, I would get one made of quality materials and one that has replaceable parts. <S> The old Silca will probably be in my will at this rate... <A> The question is marginal 'cos its asking about specifics which change over time and products which are not necessarily universally available. <S> My (very wonderful) trackpump has certain attributes that make me like it but given that its at least 6, more likely 8 or 10 years old <S> so... <S> better to define the things that make me like it <S> : It works i.e. it puts a lot of air in the tyres efficiently (hard to evaluate <S> but it is key). <S> Big, clear, gauge - at the top - with a "target" marker so your getting the right pressures <S> Smarthead - don't have to worry about <S> presta or schraeder just push it on and lift the lever Very stable in use - big base to put one's foot etc. <S> Solid. <S> Very solid. <S> If you put everything away properly the hose loops through a hook, there's a hole to park the head and there a "hook" so that you can carry it by the handle. <S> Last but <S> not least, its still working a lot of years. <S> The keys are 2, 3 and 4 the rest are bonus features that differentiate it from the alternatives. <S> For what its worth, its a Topeak <S> Jo Blow Pro - but what resemblence mine bears to a current model is unknown. <A> I have a Tioga, which has a universal connector so that you can put onto either Schrader or presta valves. <S> The current model (Zero Comp Floor Pump) looks pretty much like what I have. <S> It also has a pressure gauge. <S> Very versatile and does more than enough for me.
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Plenty of pumps work for both types of valve, and your LBS should be able to point out which pumps can do this.
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Truing stands, go big or stay home? I'm looking to buy a truing stand. Is the Park TS-8 Home good enough? Or should I pay double the price and get the Park TS-2.2 Pro . I have some experience truing wheels, but never on a nice stand. I was using my makeshift home made stand which consists of an old fork and calipers constructed from u-brakes that are bolted on to the fork. Obviously anything would be huge step up from my current method, but I wonder if the Pro is really that much better? I only need to true bmx wheels (20in) and I used to run 48 spokes so they would stay true for a long time. However, I recently switched to 36 spokes and I find they need a lot more attention. <Q> The TS-2 is what I use <S> and I quite like it. <S> 3 of them are 17 years old and we just purchased a brand new one. <S> Of course everyone likes the older ones ... <S> hah. <S> Anyways, in my opinion you do not NEED to buy the more expensive one. <S> If you are truing 10+ wheels a day, yes you need it (in my opinion). <S> For home mechanic work, the TS-8 is just fine. <A> The cheaper one will probably work reasonably well, but (crucial point) <S> you'll need to use a dishing tool with it. <S> With reasonably careful adjustment, a TS-2 can substitute for a dishing tool most of the time <S> (i.e., anytime the dishing isn't really critical). <S> You need a dishing tool to adjust the stand, but you only rarely need to use it otherwise. <A> so would be more likely to get damaged in the house (moving....). <S> If you end up buying the home one twice because of damage the pro one would have survived then you didn't really save any money. <S> It's also much easier to work with two calipers (one per rim side) than a single one. <S> I'd find it pretty annoying to constantly flip the wheel over to check the other side of the rim.
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I think that the more expensive one would be worth it in the long run. The home one looks like it's made from a much lighter material
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What should I look for in choosing wheels for a road bike? I have a commuting/touring bike and my riding is a good bit of commuting mixed with weekend rides of up to 50 miles. In my lame knowledge, I'll assume that lighter wheels can be had when you spend more money, but what are other things to look for or avoid when choosing wheels for a non-racing bike? <Q> If you're doing mostly commuting I'd look for strength above light. <S> Go for something with more spokes and with a 3 cross lacing pattern. <S> You want something that is reliable. <S> Of course you weight is a consideration so there is always a trade off between that and durability. <S> so there is less chance that durability will be a factor. <A> In response to an earlier post, you don't want to change your wheelsize. <S> And 28" and 29" <S> both refer to 700c wheels (and hence are the same size). <A> I'd avoid anything with deep (aerodynamic) rims as the wheel will be stiffer and less comfortable. <A> Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28" instead of 26", or even 29" <S> but they need to fit your frame (you should check). <S> More narrow wheels will reduce rolling resistance. <S> Less profile in your tires will reduce rolling resistance. <S> higher pressure in your innertube will reduce rolling resistance. <S> for commuting a puncture resistant tire such as <S> the schwalbe marathon plus is very nice. <S> In googling this question I came across this article which shows that there is quite a difference between different tire types, also, whatever the tire type, increasing the pressure will reduce resistance (probably at the expense of some durability) <A> Amongst the other good advice I would recommend non-radial wheels - it doesn't save that much weight generally and is stronger; with 28 or 24 spokes you can go cross 2 .
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Going with something with radial (straight) lacing up front can save weight and you're less likely to break a spoke on the front wheel Build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub.
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Formula for Homemade sports drinks I am interested in home-made sports drinks. I have used "Hammer Nutrition" products, but I could probably put it together myself, just by using the key ingredients. Anyhow, has anyone done this? And, how do you determine the carb/fat/protein + vitamin/mineral ratios? A couple of years ago I ran across an FRS ad on a cycling site. Since Lance was promoting it, I took a look at the claims. Basically, the FRS products contain sugar, some vitamins, plus supplements of Quercetin and Catechin . The main benefit claim for FRS turns out to be the quercetin. So I came up with a simple concoction of honey sweetened tea, and also pop a multivitamin before a ride. (Tea is one of the highest sources of quercetin.) And carry along a high cocoa bar for catechins. (Cocoa is high in catechin.) So, all in all way cheaper than buying FRS. Does anyone make their own sports drinks? And if so, what do you put in it? I personally dislike most commercial sports drinks and so for electrolytes, when needed, I use Endurolyte tablets. Maltodextrin will go into the mix. However, how do I formulate the rest of it? Edit: This was recently downvoted. Maybe it's a bad question? <Q> Maltodextrin. <S> It is basically pure glucose, which is the only sugar that your muscles can use directly without converting, so it's just pure energy. <S> It also has no flavor or sweetness, so it is completely inoffensive, and you can sweeten (or not) to your desired level. <S> Look in any sport beverage and it will contain maltodextrin. <S> A lot of home brewing places sell maltodextrin and you can also get it from websites that cater to racing dogs (e.g. for the iditerod) as a dog supplement, but it's totally safe for human consumption. <A> One of the recommendations for heavily training athletes now is to drink a fair amount of carbohydrate within an hour of finishing, in order to replenish glycogen stores in your muscle cells. <S> Furthermore, the uptake is better in the presence of protein, so there are 'after ride' drink mixes you can spend <S> more hard-earned $$$ on. <S> My substitute: chocolate milk! <S> About 16 ounces, and important to take within an hour of riding. <S> Stopping at a coffee shop and getting a mocha does the job equally well. <A> There are two categories of sports drinks as far as endurance folks are concerned: <S> During-the-ride hydration for replacing water and electrolytes, and providing some supplemental carbs and sugar to help keep the fat-burn primed and avoid bonking. <S> Post-ride drinks for recovery. <S> These typically include some protein in the form of dairy products. <S> I suppose that is why regen is popular. <S> It is (or tastes identical to) chocolate milk-- <S> of course folks are going to like it. <S> This makes it easy to consistently dial-in the right amount of dilution (can't stand the stuff "straight"). <S> Powdered gatorade has worked fine for me. <S> YMMV. <S> I think that creating a sports drink from scratch would be too much of a "science project"!
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The most practical solution I've found is to buy sports drinks in powdered form and mix them before the ride.
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What are the most effective methods of bicycling advocacy? Are all the best efforts truly local, or are there good regional/national causes (for example, the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy ) that are worth supporting? <Q> Like the saying goes, "Think globally, act locally". <S> The best form of advocacy is to ride as much as you can. <S> In the developed world we tend to look at cycling as recreation or a hobby. <S> As such, many participants drive their bike to the place where they ride their bikes. <S> The more visible you are to your friends, neighbors and co-workers as a cyclist, the better. <S> The more you ride for transportation, or utility the more 'credibility' you have with those around you. <S> Begin in your local community. <S> If you ride to the store, restaurant, or library and there is not a convenient place to lock your bike, talk to the manager. <S> On a couple of occasions I have mentioned to a manager that I and other cyclists like a particular restaurant <S> but we don't visit as often because there is nowhere to lock our bikes other than a chain link fence, or a tree. <S> Two 'strip malls' now have bike racks. <S> Finally, your town or county may have an advocacy group already - join - be active. <A> Showing example is a great way for cycling advocacy. <S> People around me take usage of car for granted. <S> But when they see me riding my bike everyday for working, for shopping or just for the pleasure of cycling, they start to question their behaviour. <S> There is still a long way before they are converted but the seed has been injected in their mind. <A> There are lots of cycling clubs that are associated with IMBA (International Mountain Biking Association) . <S> These clubs often run events and maintain trails. <S> By joining an IMBA club, you'll help support efforts on a regional and national level. <A> <A> My usual approach to this is to get work colleagues to volunteer to take part in a charity bike ride a few months from now (we usually do the Manchester to Blackpool Bike Ride in aid of <S> The Christie which is about 60 miles long). <S> Out of the various people who volunteer and do the bike ride each year, a number carry on cycling (if they hadn't already been keen cyclists), this was what got me back into cycling a few years ago, now. <S> So my suggestion would be to try and get friends or colleagues to do something cycling related with a few months to prepare for it, and hope that as a result they will rediscover cycling and become once more converted to the Way of the Bike. <A> Slightly silly but... public transport strikes. <S> Preferably in sunny weather! <A> Here is a great link from Bikes <S> Belong on effective methods of bicycling advocacy by individuals! <S> To summarize: Ride your bike and represent bicycling Connect with local advocacy Connect/network with government and community leaders <S> Get involved at the national level <A> Adventure Cycling Association is a great group. <S> Their nonprofit mission: "to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun, and self-discovery." <A> Although there are great local groups, some things are best addressed by nationwide efforts. <S> The vote in the US Senate over transportation funding - MAP-21 - was publicized and lobbied over by groups like the League of American Cyclists - and I think that was instrumental in getting things changed for the better. <S> This question has answers which include organizations all around the world.
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One of the aspects of Cycling Advocacy is to make cycling more popular. Rails-to-trails , LAB and others are all great groups who do a lot of good, but not necessarily in your area. Buying from your local bike store that does advocacy, instead of ordering online or buying from Walmart.
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How to tighten a brake? This is probably a really basic question but I'm confused by the whole brake mechanism so... My left (front wheel) brake has to be pulled in really far before it actually starts to brake (I guess before the brake pads touch the wheel). What do I do to tighten it up? (diagrams would really help, I think) <Q> There are two basic adjustments that apply to all types of rim brakes (v-brakes, cantilevers, calipers): <S> Tension: <S> The cable tension from the brake lever to the brakes adjusts how responsive your brakes feel. <S> Tighten it up and both brake pads will engage sooner and the braking action will be harder. <S> Loosen it up and braking will feel spongy and you may not get enough power. <S> Adding tension periodically is important since your pads wear down over time and the cable stretches a bit too. <S> The easiest way to adjust the tension is to use a barrel adjuster: they're usually on the brake lever or the brake or both if you're lucky. <S> Add tension by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise (looking at it from the side where the cable housing goes in). <S> But whenever you adjust tension, you need to fix... <S> Balance <S> : This controls how far each pad is from the rim. <S> Adding tension will pull both pads closer to the rim, but usually one will move more than the other. <S> So by adjusting balance you can move the closer one further away and the other pad will do the opposite. <S> You want to balance the pads so that they're about the same distance from the rim and engage at about the same time. <S> If it's skewed (like your brakes) then you won't get as much braking power. <S> For v-brakes and canti's there's a spring inside each brake arm. <S> You can adjust the spring force by turning a small set screw on the side of the brake arm. <S> Screwing it in (clockwise) will pull the arm away from the rim (which pulls the other one closer). <S> It's best to adjust the two arms together: <S> screw in the closer arm first by half a turn to start, and screw out the other one by the same amount. <S> Check the balance and then repeat as necessary. <S> For caliper brakes (road bikes) there's normally just one set screw to adjust. <S> Turn it to see which way the brakes move. <A> @darkcanuck has the right idea with his explanation. <S> Adjusting brakes is easiest if you've got a friend to help you or a "third-hand" tool that you can use to hold the brakes all the way in while you adjust the cable. <S> The basic process that I'd follow for setting up brakes is: Check that the brake pads don't need replacing. <S> Get your friend or your "third-hand" tool to hold the brake closed so that both brakes touch the rim. <S> Wind <S> the barrel adjuster on your brake levers in <S> so that it is as far in as it can go <S> , then wind it back out a turn. <S> Find the bolt that holds the end of the cable to the brake mechanism. <S> Loosen this bolt. <S> Pull the end of the brake cable as tight as you can <S> and while holding this tension tighten the bolt that holds the end of the brake cable to the brake mechanism. <S> Your friend / tool can now be removed from the brakes. <S> Wind <S> the barrel adjuster on the brake lever all the way in. <S> This should let the brakes out a little bit so they clear the rim. <S> Check the balance of the brakes (see @darkcanuck's post). <S> If your rim has a few wobbles to it, you may need to wind the barrel adjuster out a bit more when you set the tension. <A> Most V-Brakes have a little screw at the base of each 'arm' that adjusts the pre-load. <S> To move the brake pad closer to the rim, I believe that you need to loosen the screw. <S> If that doesn't completely fix the problem, you might have to apply some oil to where the arm pivots. <A> You can probably used the barrel adjuster near the brake lever itself to take up some slack in the cable. <S> While looking from the cable towards the brake lever, turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise (to the left) <S> a turn or so at a time until the distance of pull on the brake lever is reasonable.
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If one brake pad is rubbing adjust the balance so that both brake pads are clear of the rim. Normally you want to add tension; removing tension is only done when you put on fresh pads or if you set the tension too tight.
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How do I calculate spoke length? I have lots of bikes and lots of interesting wheel sizes, I would like to know how to calculate the right spoke lengths for a wheel. I appreciate that there are probably rather a lot of variables but this is something that has been an issue for me from time to time so being able to work out the right spoke length for an arbitrary wheel (did I mention that I have half a dozen or more different wheel sizes in the garage?) would be useful. To be clear - I don't want a calculator, I want to know what the sums are. <Q> The basic arrangement for cross-laced spokes is thus: Spoke Length = sqrt[ (RRSP - (HSR * cos(SAA)))^2 + HFO^2 - (HSR <S> * cos(SAA))^2 ] <S> RRSP <S> (Rim Radius plus Spoke Penetration) is half of the Effective Rim Diameter given by the manufacturer plus 2mm for the spoke's penetration into the nipple HSR <S> (Hub Spoke Radius) is the radius from the hub center to the outermost edge of the spoke holes on the hub <S> SAA <S> (Spoke Anchor Angle) is the angle of from the hub spoke hole to rim hole that the spoke goes to. <S> It depends upon the lacing pattern and which individual spoke you are calculating for. <S> HFO <S> (Hub Flange Offset) is the distance from the hub's flange to the lateral center of the wheel, based upon the dish of the wheel. <S> For a front wheel, this will be the same on each side, but for a rear wheel, which has a dish to accommodate the rear gears, this is different for each side since the hub's own lateral center is different from the wheel's lateral center. <S> I'll credit this page for the formula; it also has more detail. <S> There are also a bunch of calculators online, the easiest of which is probably Damon Rinard's spocalc spreadsheet . <S> Other calculators: <S> Danny Epstein's Roger Musson's (he literally wrote the book on wheel building) United Bicycle Institute <S> As usual, Sheldon Brown has a great page on wheel building <S> and you can learn more about the math from the above mentioned book . <A> If you're still interested, you can check out the site <S> I'm developing that draws the wheel for you, allows you to play with all the variables and select different lacing patterns. <S> It may help to visualize what you want before you build it (and even see it spinning). <S> Note <S> : It's still in active development, so don't expect perfection. <A> The wheel illustration above would appear to be a non-drive side radial lace and a drive side 3cross rear wheel. <S> I've used this combo with a full radial laced front on a 24" BMX Cruiser I built in the late 90's. <S> I referred to the rim manufactures data base through a distributer and found their recommendation to be spot on. <S> I have found some spoke lengths can be hard to find. <S> A Phil Wood Spoke <S> Cutter/Threader is a vital tool to have access to in situations like that.
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For radial (straight) spokes, the formula is simpler: Spoke Length = sqrt[ (RRSP - HSR)^2 + HFO^2 ]
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Headphones with low wind noise? I have some Sennheiser PMX70 headphones that I quite like, in particular because the around-the-neck design allows me to quickly drop them down onto my neck and out of my ears. The one thing that I don't like about them is they create a lot of wind noise, which makes it hard to hear both what I'm listening to and ambient noise. Can anyone recommend headphones of similar style with low wind noise? For discussion on safety of cycling with music, see this question . <Q> I use a pair of the basic Apple ear buds that came with my iPod Shuffle for riding. <S> I've found that they put out "ok" quality sound (not as good as my Sennheisers), but the open-air design of them lets a lot of road noise through, as well. <S> I can hear almost any car coming up behind me (including hybrids), and can hear about 90% of the bicycles coming up to pass as well. <S> As for dropping them down around your neck, I usually take my ear buds out and slip them in the neck of my shirt. <S> They might look like funny little lumps on your chest at first glance, but it is obvious what they are after you notice the wires. <S> I would certainly steer clear of anything with "noise canceling" however. <S> In the case of ear buds with rubber tips, the rubber is intended to seal out outside noise, like cars. <S> Bad idea. <S> I would also suggest perusing this question about safety concerns. <A> I use a combination of a single earbud (currently Sennheiser CX380s) with a head band (I've 3 Assos headbands in rotation: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=38937 ). <S> The headband both stops the sweat rolling into the eyes but also routes the wind around the ear. <S> (I do generally wear a lid, so the headband doesn't look so daft.) <A> Not exactly the same category, but I use Creative Aurvana Live! <S> They cut off most of the sound from outside (including wind), so you need to rely on your sight more. <A> You might want to look at this before deciding to ride with earphones. <S> You could always wear a hat that covers your ears to block the wind. <S> I think that most in-ear phones will be affected by wind, maybe you could try some over-the-ears types. <A> There is, however, some trouble fitting these under the helmet straps and they probably won't be much fun in the summer. :-) <A> Without getting into the advisability of using earphones while riding; I have hearing aids that amplify not only what I want to hear, but any other sounds in the usual frequency ranges. <S> Hence a comparable wind-noise problem. <S> Have not tried all the products advertised for wind noise reduction, but have experimented with various wraps and covers to winnow down the choices. <S> Best so far resulted in a purchase of long-nap faux-fur strap wraps that do a fair job of reducing wind noise without interfering with ambient sound. <S> My hearing aids have microphones on tiny tubes that curl into the fold of my ear, not built into the in-the-canal amplifier or behind-the-ear. <S> That feature is in itself fair at avoiding some wind noise, but the Cat-Ears help more. <S> http://www.cat-ears.com/
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There are some earmuffs with integrated headphones, for instance the KitSound Audio Earmuffs or Vibe Sound Earmuff Headphones, that finally solved the problem for me since they have a soft cover on the outside that dampens the wind noise.
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V-Brake pads for wet conditions In wet conditions, my current brakes are pretty poor. Without switching to disc brakes, what are my options for v-brake pads that work better in the wet? I'm only thinking about this for my commuting bike, which is mostly a flat ride to and from work. But sometimes the rain can get pretty heavy this time of year. <Q> I've had good luck (with cantilever brakes) with Velo Orange's Squeal-Free Brake pads , but many people say that the Salmon compound brake pads from Kool Stop <S> are the best choice for wet conditions. <S> The dual-compound Kool Stops are a good idea, since supposedly they work well in all conditions... <S> My LBS stocks brands, but Kool Stop is a much more usual brand of brake pad to carry. <S> In general: any brake pads that say they're made for wet conditions. <A> Your best bet is to switch to a different compound of brake pad. <S> Your LBS should carry winter pads which may work better in the weather conditions you're asking. <A> They last pretty long. <S> It is also useful to clean them after muddy ride or use a file to clean its surface (it should be flat).
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I personally reccomend using switchable brake pads like these: http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/UNBVPNN3C
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How can I repair a tyre with a deep cut? I have some foldable racing tyres, still with plenty of tread but with some small cuts through the tread & cloth. Can I do anything to them or are they destined for the bin? <Q> You should be able to patch the tire with a tire boot , which you should be able to pick up at your LBS. <S> It's basically a rubber patch that you apply to the inside of the tire, where a gash is. <S> Similar to a tube patch, but thicker. <S> There's all sorts of things that people use for makeshift boots, too, such as a $1 bill. <S> The important thing with a boot is that it prevents the tube from herniating through the gash. <S> Park Tools Emergency Tire Boot <A> If the cuts are very small (1mm as you posted above) <S> then there's not need to do anything. <S> Normal punctures -- especially from glass -- are liable to leave that size of cut. <S> I've used a tire this season for at least 3000km <S> which accumulated many such minor cuts -- I only replaced it last week because it was getting far too thin. <S> You'll want to watch out for larger cuts though -- <S> anything that the tube might bulge out through. <S> The sidewalls are especially susceptible to this since they're thinner and gashes squeeze open wider where the tire meets the ground. <S> My rule of thumb is if you can see the tube through the tire, even if you have to pinch it open, then it's probably done. <A> If tire is heavily cut, it should not be used for racing anymore. <S> It can be repaired, but give it to someone who rides on pavement only. <A> If you can see cloth, I'd be seriously considering replacing the tyre. <S> While it might have lots of tread, a deep cut is going to be an area of weakness and while you might be able to back it with tape, notes or similar padding, the tyre will not cope well with high pressure - and will be much more susceptible to rupturing at that point. <S> And make the next set of tyres you buy Kevlar-lined, it really does make a serious difference to longevity.
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Put a tire boot in to limp home but replace the tire as soon as possible.
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Is an exercise bike good enough for keeping fit in the winter, rather than a turbo trainer I bought a turbo trainer for winter training last year, but the hassle of using it (lugging my bike up the steps and into my narrow apartment, changing the wheel to one with a trainer tyre, setting up something to watch at the same time, getting the bike computer set up right), plus the noise (the NOISE!) whenever I get up to a decent speed, mean I probably won't be using it much. So I was thinking of getting a standalone exercise bike instead, figuring it will be easier for me to hop on when I feel like it and less noisy. Edit: (to make it less subjective):What I'd like to know is what are the drawbacks of using an exercise bike when you're used to riding a road bike? <Q> what are the drawbacks of using an exercise bike? <S> Noise (you mentioned this) <S> Many quickly get bored riding on an exercise bike Promotes bad cycling form <S> Can be large, heavy, expensive <S> My favorite alternative to riding in the snow in the winter is to ride on rollers. <S> Not as boring Amazing for form <S> Foldable space saving models exist More like actually riding on the road <S> No switching out tires Ride on bicycle <S> Getting comfortable with riding on the rollers took me about 2 hours <S> and I feel that it has been a great way to stay in shape and in good form while I'm not able or willing to ride out in the weather. <S> Photos of my rollers: Is an exercise bike good enough for keeping fit in the winter <S> Yes... <S> and no. <S> Completely depends on what level of 'fit' you are trying to attain and how consistent and hard you work on the exercise bike. <S> If you are just trying to keep your blood moving and stay generally fit, then an exercise bike is a great winter workout tool. <S> If you are working towards a 206 mile - 1 day race in the summer then you will probably want to mix your exercise bike workouts with other exercises like weight lifting and yoga. <S> Is an exercise bike going to be better than a turbo trainer? <S> Depends. <S> Exercise bikes tend to be more upright in their posture which may make the exercising more comfortable. <S> There is another bicycle stackexchange question and answer similar to what I have said. <S> I wish to get fit, therefore should I have a heavy bike? <A> The noise will always be an issue and it will depend on your personal space issues, but I went on gumtree (a London equivalent of craigslist) and got a dirt cheap, old beat up road bike as my turbo bike - at least that would remove the hassle of lugging it up and down the stairs. <S> That way, I wasn't killing my normal road machines, nor did I have to reset everything every time. <S> My tri club often did classes on spin bikes, but I just didn't get on with them. <S> I found that exercise bikes just aren't the same as even a turbo, IME. <A> My wife & I "share" an exercise bike, mainly because we don't have room for it as well as <S> my wind trainer :-( <S> It was fairly cheap, from Aldi, so you might want to keep an eye out for one. <S> I don't mind it, as it is easily adjusted and quiet. <S> The only thing I would change if I could would be the seat. <S> It is a typical exercise style one and is way to short and wide. <S> In terms of training, I find that I can get just as good a workout with it compared to the wind trainer. <S> And since it is quiet I get more chance to do so, since I can ride either early in the morning or later at night without disturbing others. <S> The only minus is that it has a funny shaped pair of bars and after a while I get rather bored with the hand positions. <S> I find that the road bike's drop bars give me more variety. <A> Most exercise bikes don't simulate the same riding position that you have on your road bike. <S> If your goal is to improve your performance on your road bike, you'll either need a specialized exercise bike that lets you get in the same position, or you'll need to use your road bike. <S> There really is no substitute for getting miles in using the same position as when you're riding "for real".
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If you are wanting to be better trained and acclimated to riding your bike for races or rides, then a turbo trainer will probably better suit your needs. The rollers I have used have several advantages Pricing and space will also be something to take into consideration when looking at exercise bikes vs. trainers.
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Ever seen a locking bag that could be locked to the bike? This might take a little explaining. I've got stuff on my bike that removes easily and could be stolen: head light, tail light, cyclometer. If I'm riding to a concert or something, I don't want to lug that kind of stuff around in my pockets, but I don't want to leave it sitting out on my bike for thieves, either. I've been looking for some kind of small bag or pouch made from a tough material (like those locking bags banks use for deposits) that could be locked to the bike. I'm imagining something with a sturdy strap that would fit through an opening on the other side, so you could then feed your U-lock or chain through the loop, thus locking the bag shut and to the bike at the same time. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Is this overkill for a problem with a simpler solution? <Q> Do you mean something like this from PacSafe <S> it's got a secure steel mesh inside: <S> I remember using one of their bigger backpack bags when travelling to New Zealand a few years ago, and the only complaints I had were from the TSA when we went through the US. <S> Alternatively if you have a rack on the back, then it may be possible to attach a lockable box to that in some secure way. <S> Although my worry would be that anyone who noticed such a box, would immediately wonder what was locked up inside and decide to break it open. <A> I've used zip ties to secure four panniers to the back of my Kona Ute. <S> It's cheap insurance against opportunistic snatches of the panniers themselves, but the unattended contents are vulnerable. <S> Someone before made the point that heavily secure-looking panniers make the contents appear more desirable. <S> I'm thinking that secure panniers ought to have a rigid shape, so it's hard to tell whether or not they contain something. <S> As for easily-removed racks. <S> There are utility bikes on the market, such as my Ute, in which the storage rack is actually part of the frame. <S> With such a bike, one only has to concentrate on how well the locking pannier is attached to the bike, and the quality of your usual bike locking strategy. <A> Maybe you can get/addapt a hard saddlebags for motorcycles. <A> Here's one . <S> And another <A> I'm using aircraft cable on my panniers... live in NYC and after 2 years, panniers got ratty and now have new ones cabled on. <S> Affix the cable so that they would need to either cut it or destroy the pannier to take it. <S> I looped the cable round the mount of a locking child seat on the back of my Kona Ute before locking the seat on. <S> You can cut and swat 1/16" cable without much trouble. <S> 1/8 is a little tougher but still doable if you have a wire cutter/crimper for electrical cable. <A> I cam across this post whilst carrying out market research for a design I was developing. <S> It was a problem I had noticed also when leaving my bike and always having to put my lights in a bag or pocket. <S> It's been a while since this was first asked but if you are interested in these types of products check out my Kickstarter. <S> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2049310942/bikeboot-the-lockable-bike-bag <S> Best regards, Pete <A> My first thought was to use a bag that has a reasonably strong handle and just pass the bike lock though the handle – this will stop most opportunistic snatches. <S> Given the correct handle design it could also stop someone opening the bag. <S> (I have done this with my panniers) <S> Then I thought that fixing a very loud rape alarm in the bag, with the strap locked to the bike lock would be good. <S> When (if) the bag is stolen, the rape alarm will activate as the strap will be pulled out – at that point if the bike has been left in a good parking spot <S> a lot of people will know the theft is going on. <A> For my panniers I took some lightweight aircraft cable and ran loops to the screws that secure the bag to its frame. <S> These loops are long enough to run my regular lock through them, and they're stuffed in the bag when not in use. <S> In my case the purpose is to prevent "opportunistic" thefts by stupid kids, but the technique could be used with heavier cables to discourage more "professional" thieves. <S> Obviously, with any sort of fabric bag the fabric can be cut, so there is a practical limit to the amount of security provided by this technique. <A> You can also easily adapt the variety of rear cases that are made for scooters. <A> Make eyes/loops either end of some brake or gear inner cable using 2mm ferrules and use a mini luggage lock to secure. <S> As mentioned above this is a delay/move on to easier pickings tactic. <S> Try to keep your bike in full public view and use two different types of bike lock i.e. chain and U lock as most bike thieves do not come equipped with two sets of removal tools.
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I've seen a couple of lockable boxes that mount to your rack. They do sell a variety of bicycle hard panniers - and people have made their own using a variety of materials from ammo boxes to plastic tubs. A punch & hammer also works.
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Luggage rack attachments for laptops? So, while out riding my bike, I really dislike having a backpack on. I have a trek luggage rack on my bicycle and would love to find something that could attach to it, capable of holding a 17" laptop, preferably in a hard case, with padding. I would really hate to lose the laptop (or its drive stability) to a fall/crash or even just the basic road vibrations and bumps... Has anyone seen a product like this, or potentially know a good way to build something like this? :) <Q> Your best bet for weatherproof and crash worthiness is going to be a pelican case. <S> They have a whole series of cases for laptops. <S> http://www.pelican.ca/case_group_search.php?CaseGroup=Laptop <S> I've personally taken a 'hardback' case on a paddling trip and it held up great. <S> Many pelican products also have a warranty against failure as well so if the product does leak you've at least got a new case and a replacement laptop. <S> If you get one of their other cases you can also lock the case which will assist in keeping it secure from a thief. <S> Yeah it's not going to stop a determined person but at the least it will give you time to realize and change any vital personal information. <S> Past that make sure you backup your data with something like Mozy.com. <S> At some point you'll have a drive failure no matter what. <A> Another option is Ortlieb l bought Office pannier which l can recommend <S> give it is waterproof, robust and the way it attaches to the rack works. <S> This is what l use for my company laptop in a padded bag. <S> If you are looking for something tougher try Office 2 bag <S> I did not go for this one based on price and weight, that said it looks like it would offer more protection, and would be waterproof. <S> Vital in Sunny Scotland :-) <A> The case below is not a hard case but it is well padded, and attaches securely with very little sway. <S> It also includes a rain cover. <S> It's my favorite. <S> Jandd 19 inch laptop case <S> I haven't seen a hard case that attaches to bike rack but there certainly may be one out there. <A> The Topeak MTX Office Bag claims to fit a 17" laptop in a "padded laptop compartment". <S> The bag will only work (well) with a Topeak MTX rack, but with the right rack the bag will slide and snap securely to the rack. <S> It doesn't look like it'd survive a direct collision, but in that case the laptop would probably be the least of your worries. <A> I use an Arkel bug with the laptop compartment which fits my Mac (36.5 x 25 cm rectangular which is a 17.4" diagonal) and it works like a charm. <S> It converts to a backpack which helps since I bike to and from the train. <S> I wouldn't go with that color. <S> They have others which are more reflective to headlights, and sell a bright yellow raincover.
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I've also used padded sleeves and just slipped them in either my messenger bag or one of my panniers.
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What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash? Crashes are an inevitability in cycling. This weekend, I hit a 4" stick on my bike. It flipped over, stuck in the spokes of my front wheel and did this to it: It stopped my bike really quickly and I wound up flying over the handlebars, and earned a trip to the local ER where they spent an hour scrubbing the road out of my face, arms and shoulder. So what tips and tricks do you folks have for recovering quickly (and without scarring) from road rash? <Q> Wow! <S> That looks like a horrid crash. <S> There are some newer ideas on road rash healing. <S> My doctor recommended that I NOT use Neosporin type ointments. <S> The reason being that it only has an affect on the superficial layers of the wound and that infection, if it occurs, will be in the deeper layers; and also that topicals are shown to interfere with wound healing. <S> The keys to healing and preventing scarring are to keep the wounds clean and moist. <S> The advice I got from my physician (who is a cyclist) is pretty much the same as the advice here on freewheel.com . <S> According to the article and my doc: After a proper cleaning it's recommended to apply an application of a hydrocolloid or semiocclusive hydrogel dressing. <S> "A moist healing environment is provided by the dressing... <S> Two basic options fulfill this requirement." <S> Semipermeable film dressings , such as Bioclusive (Johnson & Johnson, New Brunswick, New Jersey) andTegaderm (3M Company, St Paul), in combination with semiocclusive hydrogels such as Spenco 2nd Skin (Spenco Medical Corp, Waco, Texas). <S> These dressings are impermeable to water and bacteria but allow the exudate to evaporate." <S> Hydrocolloidal dressings . <S> Examples of hydrocolloidal dressings are Duoderm (ConvaTec, SkiUman, New Jersey) and Cutinova hydro (Beiersdorf, Inc, Norwalk, Connecticut). <A> One suggestion: Neosporin. <S> Every time you change a bandage, wash it out and slather that stuff on. <A> Scabbing retards the healing process greatly, and will increase scarring. <S> The Neosporin that was suggested above and other generic antibiotic ointments help with this; this is an economical solution. <S> You can get gauze that is already impregnated with Neosporin-like things, or you can apply the ointment to the wound and then put regular gauze on top. <S> For large areas, it can be hard to keep the bandage on the wound which is why I recommend other products like Tegaderm . <S> Tegaderm and similar products that are designed for burn victims work great. <S> The nice thing about tegaderm is that you can stick it on the rash (once it's clean) and then leave it on there. <S> It stays on the wound without needing tape or other adhesives, but it doesn't pull or damage the healing skin when/if you pull it off. <S> It forms a protective "skin-like" layer while the skin underneath grows back. <S> You can leave it on for a long time without changing, and it speeds the healing immensely. <A> First is getting the hair and dirt out of the wound, which it sounds like the ER has done for you. <S> In the first 24-48 hours, I've found the gel bandages to vastly improve the time it takes road rash to heal. <S> They seem to wick away a lot of the fluids which build up on a fresh wound. <S> I get something similar from playing goalkeeper on occasion. <S> I'm unsure of the exact science involved, but as the bandages never seem to be able to get 100% coverage, it is easy to see exactly which areas have the bandages and which don't. <S> The area under the bandage heals considerable faster and the scabbing comes out much smoother and flush with the skin. <A> I have followed both @Jack M. and @LanceH's advice before and both worked well. <S> I also followed that up with anti-scar cream for a nice face wound I had. <S> I think it helped, but I'm not that interested in doing a personal comparison study. <S> Search on amazon or head to your local drug store/chemist and ask someone there for a recommendation. <S> You use the anti-scar cream after the scab is off if I remember right. <S> And don't pick off the scab! <A> Bactine is an antibacterial with a pain relief formula of some sort in it. <S> I'll swear by it, as i got some rash longboarding a few weeks ago and after using it once or twice a day for a few days i don't even feel it anymore and it healing faster than normal. <A> So many different way to heal, I'm noticing when I cover <S> n let nature take its course <S> I'm watching my facial burn heal more each day. <S> It is irritating having to tape up my face tho <S> so I am off in search of duoderm or something that will allow my face to be free of sticky tape while avoiding scarring. <S> Definitely keep your wound covered. <S> My sister who is a dr without the degree swears I'm going to get infection by the bandages, but she is being proven wrong. <S> I have photographed the wound each day and see a noticeably different wound each day that passes. <S> I cannot wait til <S> it's gone tho, but realize time is of the essence. <A> What I've found, after the first 24 hours or so when the wound is oozing, is that leaving it uncovered but coating it with ointment works best. <S> (Preferably use an antibiotic ointment, but plain old petrolatum is OK.) <S> If the wound is in a place where it might get bumped, or you consider it terribly unsightly (though how can a biking wound be other than a badge to wear proudly?) <S> then you can lightly cover with gauze. <S> The ointment holds in the moisture, which is what you need most to promote healing. <S> And antibiotic ointments have been shown to increase the speed of healing over non-antibiotic. <A> Not really an answer in the long term, but excluding air from the wound helps. <S> Also stops the wound from stinging as you get home. <S> Using this method I have a 3" line on my forearm where there are now no freckles, but you can't feel it, and hair grows normally. <S> Plus you can see through the plastic and observe if you've missed any lumps of road.
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So as a get-home fix you can use something like clean gladwrap / sarin wrap to cover the wound after washing out all the dirt. The main idea is to keep scabs from forming. He also told me not to use hydrogen peroxide as it damages tissue.
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Are there any bicycle computers that will log ride data? I'm looking to get a computer for my bicycle to give me some more information when I go on rides. I have seen and used several that belong to friends, and while they seem invaluable, the one feature they all lacked was data logging(more than simple avg. speed, avg. cadence, etc.) and the ability to pull that data onto my computer. I'd love to be able to make some graphs of my rides so that I can track my progress, this seems simple enough that it must exist, I've just had no luck finding one. Ideally, I would like it to have the following features: Speed and Cadence sensors Trip functionality USB interface to get data the data onto my computer. If anyone has any recommendations for a good cycling computer it would be greatly appreciated! <Q> Garmin Edge-series computers coupled with Garmin Connect ... not inexpensive, but have traditional bike touch points (wheel and cadence sensors) coupled with GPS, logging and USB. <S> Edge 205/305 are BW, 605 and up add color, ANT integration, etc ... <S> all the modern bike computer features. <A> VeloComputer looks like it does what you need assuming you have a compatible phone. <S> It's a Bluetooth module that connects to a variety of mobile phones (Blackberry, Android, Nokia etc.). <S> It tracks distance, spot speed, acceleration and cadence and monitors a number of other metrics too. <S> If your phone has GPS it can also do trip tracking. <S> The data can be exported as CSV via USB and converted to KML if you want to load it into a mapping application. <A> Polar's higher end heart rate monitors now offer a foot pod for tracking running distance and a bike computer (wireless as well). <S> The data can be downloaded via the data link. <S> Again, like ttt notes, not inexpensive. <S> But then this level of functionality is alas, never cheap. <S> I recall there was a Palm Pilot app that had an interface to some common bike computer standard, but that was ages ago, and I doubt it is still around. <A> LiveRider <S> This just popped up on gizmodo.com, requires an iPhone or iPod touch but looks like it has what you're looking for. <A> If you have a smartphone or Garmin device, you can use this site to do what you want: Endomondo. <S> I use it to track and map my runs, walks, bicycle rides, etc. <S> Seems to work well for me (with their app running on my iPhone) and is web based <S> so there is no upload issue. <S> It also is free, which is always nice :) <A> How about building your own? <S> MSDN has series of articles about building a bicycle computer using <S> the .Net Micro Framework. <A> I generally use a Garmin Edge 305 which hooks up reasonably well to the computer (Mac or PC). <S> But I also use the RunKeeper app for the iPhone which syncs to their website. <S> And if you're an Android-ist, here's a recent post offering options (disclaimer, not my post <S> , I just subscribe to the feed). <A> The Sigma ROX 9 <S> - It has every feature you could ask for from cycling computer, except the turn by turn directions of a Garmin Edge 800. <S> Including a dock to connect to your PC and Training log software. <S> It's also roughly half the cost of the Garmin Edge 500, and 70% less than the Edge 800, in my area at least. <S> Includes Heart Rate, as well <A> New answer to an old question. <S> Strava is the new thing on the block, and has been around since 2011. <S> You get a client running on a smartphone and it does the tracking. <S> The website has a lot of social aspects, with leaderboards and best segments. <S> There is a premium version at ~$70 USD/year, but the free tier does pretty much everything you want. <S> Plus there's an API for other web sites to connect to, for extending the functionality. <A> (Not the one linked... <S> mine is older.) <S> They make a number of models both with and without GPS that contain your desired feature set. <S> I have 6 or 7 years of ride data generated by the CicloSport and a workshop wall of printed ride graphs. <S> It tracks distance, speeds, elevation profiles, temperature, HR data, cadence, etc. <S> And the price range is much less than a Garmin. <S> I had been considering using my Android phone as the bike computer. <S> However, there are size, battery life and mounting issues that are leading me to prefer a dedicated cyclometer. <A> I have used the Veloset / MainNav MG-600 <S> which logs location using the GPS signals to give speed, trip distance and average speed. <S> This data can then map the route you took and show graphs for speed and altitude over time.
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Its also possible to synch from garmins and dedicated cycle computers with GPS, but that still needs USB. I've used a CicloSport for a number of years. There does not appear to be any logging from Cadence sensors but the data that is logged can be downloaded to a PC.
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How do I make sure my bike's the proper size? I recently received a used road bike. I took it to a bike shop where they told me the seat and handlebars had to be raised for my height, so I had them make the adjustments. I now have trouble getting on and off my bike, and when I have to stop my feet barely touch the ground. Would these be indicators that my bike's the wrong size for my height? <Q> You ought to be able to straddle the top tube fairly easily with your feet flat on the ground. <S> Sheldon Brown's article on starting on a bicycle may help with getting accustomed to having the seat higher than you are used to. <S> Do visit his site to see the video, but here are the basics: <S> Stand astride the frame, both feet on the ground. <S> Do not try to sit on the saddle while the bike is stopped, this is not usually possible if your saddle is properly adjusted. <S> Rotate the pedals so that the pedal for your less skillful foot is 45 degrees forward of straight up. <S> Put your foot on the high pedal, then press down hard, and mount the bike as you begin to move forward. <A> No you shouldn't be able to fully touch the ground from your seat. <S> Maybe with your toes totally pointed you can get them both down <S> but that's about it. <S> As for getting on an off the bike, practice will make it easier. <S> If you've never been riding a properly fit bike then I would anticipate it feels odd. <S> You should be able to place both feet flat on the ground while standing over your top tube with a bit of room to spare <S> so you don't accidentally hurt yourself by landing on the top tube. <S> As for handlebars they should be at least 1 inch lower than your seat generally. <S> The more flexible you are the lower you can go with comfort. <S> Your seat should be high enough that at the bottom of your pedal stroke your knee is slightly bent. <S> If you're experiencing knee pain that doesn't go away after a few rides (to get used to the new setup) the general rule is to move your seat up if the pain is in the front of your knee and down if it's in the back of your knee. <S> Stem length changes based on your torso length <S> so I have to assume that the shop provided you with the proper length/rise of stem to suit your body. <S> A proper bike fit is one of the best things to spend some money on with a bike. <S> Just give it a bit of time as you get used to a bike setup properly. <A> From my understanding (certainly no fit expert), you're probably fine as long as you're not crunching your privates on the top tube. <S> Your leg should be close to fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, so you would be on tippy-toes or less when at a complete stop. <S> You'll also probably find that mounting requires the use of the pedal as a "step" to get on. <A> Get measured 'properly' and then compare that to your frame - and also consider what you're planning to do on the machine. <S> If you have drop handlebars (e.g. like a road bike) and might be using them a lot, then you'll expect a different setup in comparison to using straight (or courier bars) or aerobars. <S> Also different bikes have different geometries, i.e. the lengths of the various tubes. <S> I have a relatively long back and short legs <S> and I know that certain brands are wrong for me <S> (i.e. the frame is too short and I am very cramped over the handlebars because I've a downtube correct for my legs, but a top tube too short for my back). <S> @curtismchale gives a good set of things you can do yourself, but there really is no substitute for expert advice and measurement here. <S> A few centimetres here and <S> then, a spacer on the stem or longer cranks or dropping the saddle ...
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While in the saddle, your feet should not touch the ground and your leg should be almost completely extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Your seat should be level with the ground (not the top tube) or slightly pointed down.
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How can one maintain cycling fitness as one ages? As I approach my mid-50's, I'm looking forward to a few more decades of cycling if all goes well. How can one avoid and/or mitigate age related issues in order to maintain cycling fitness? I've thought a lot about this and already engage in several practices. I'm sure that I can always learn more. <Q> Just to get started with a couple of things I already do. <S> Strength training with some emphasis on lower body. <S> Since cycling is not a weight bearing exercise, older cyclists are at a greater risk for pelvic, hip and leg fractures. <S> Update <S> As noted by darkcanuck's comment below, cycling as a cause of bone loss may very well be incorrect. <S> In the article, Dr. Mirkin advocates vitamin D supplementation to prevent bone loss, and I've also read other sources recommending the same thing. <S> So, probably a good idea especially for those in Northern climes. <S> As for strength training, I have other reasons for how it's been beneficial for cycling as I get older. <S> One is that a few years ago I was experiencing considerable neck/shoulder pain on long rides. <S> At the time I was spending long hours at the computer and cycling was my dominant physical activity. <S> I came to the conclusion that my neck/shoulder issues were posture related and so developed a strength and flexibility program to correct my posture. <S> In doing that I have been able to eliminate the pain and now ride comfortably on long rides. <S> Another issue that developed a year or so ago was knee pain. <S> Apparently I had some muscular imbalances related to cycling. <S> Since starting this new routine 6 months ago, the knee issues are significantly improved. <S> For further info on strength training for older, and even younger cyclists, here's an article from Velonews . <A> This is an old question of mine from the early days of bicycles.stackexchange, and I never really felt that there was an optimal answer. <S> So, here's another shot at it. <S> A couple of recent tweets by Joe Friel ... <S> (FYI - Joe Friel is an endurance sports coach best known as an elite triathlon and cycling coach as well as the author of several books on endurance sports.) <S> "As you age the more important workout intensity and strength training become. <S> Unfortunately, most aging athletes do the opposite." <S> "What we call “aging” is really a sign of disuse & misuse. <S> Most people age much too quickly. <S> Exercise & nutrition are the keys." <S> I did a bit of searching on Friel's site and found an excellent article that pretty explicitly answers my original question. <S> To paraphrase and summarize, here are the key factors that the aging cyclist (athlete) needs to be mindful of: Workout <S> Intensity - As one ages, there is a tendency to increase workout duration and reduce intensity. <S> It is beneficial to workout at relatively high intensity levels with the emphasis on muscular endurance, anaerobic endurance and sprint power. <S> Strength Training <S> - There is considerable research indicating that strength training is highly beneficial to the maintenance of bone density and muscle mass. <S> Sleep - As one ages, the recovery time from exertion increases. <S> Good sleep and rest are vital to allow the body to recover from physical stress and exertion. <S> Nutrition - Quality nutrition is key, featuring micronutrient rich fruits, vegetables, and animal protein. <S> Additionally, consuming sugars during a long, intense workout; and starch for recovery following the workout. <S> And to finish off, here's a quote from Middle Age: A Natural History by David Bainbridge <S> , The average man's body fat rises from 23 per cent to 29 per cent over the fifth and sixth decades of his life, while women's will reach 38 per cent. <S> So, keep on riding. <A> I can add one thing: <S> It is possible to exercise a muscle beyond it's metabolic capacity and cause serious muscle injury as a result. <S> This happens with non-trivial frequency in sports "boot camp" environments where the participants will be run ragged all day with insufficient food, then subjected to, eg, intense squatting exercises. <S> Surprisingly, muscles do not expend energy when they contract, but rather the energy is expended when the muscles "reset". <S> If the muscles contract and then it turns out that there is not enough available glucose, et al, to reset them, the muscle cells "depolarize" and die. <S> In the "boot camp" scenario this results in intense muscle pain in the major muscles of the legs, followed by "rhabdomyolysis" -- the breakdown of muscle -- and "myoblobinuria" -- the excretion of the breakdown products in the urine (seen as a rust-colored sediment -- myoglobin -- in the urine). <S> In young, healty people there is generally enough "reserve" muscle that, though this injury is effectively permanent, it does not result in any noticeable disability. <S> (However, the myoglobinuria can result in serious kidney damage, and there is a secondary condition where the damaged muscles of the leg swell up and constrict that can also be quite serious.) <S> In older people, however, especially those on statin drugs and some diabetes meds, the resulting injury itself can be significant and life changing, especially if repeated several times. <S> The injury is most apt to occur in situations such as a relatively long, intense climb near the end of several hours of cycling, but can occur in shorter episodes of intense energy expenditure. <S> The symptom will be a "muscle pull" type pain that doesn't appear until about 36 hours after the exercise (in fact, long enough removed that the individual may not associate the pain with the prior activity). <S> And, where a regular "muscle pull" usually clears up in 3-6 weeks, the rhabdo injury remains painful for 3-6 months. <A> I'm not sure what kind of cycling you do. <S> But, a mountain biker mentioned to me that more suspension is appreciated more as you get older. <S> Some seat post suspension might help. <S> The reviews for this are great, but it's a bit pricey: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/seat-post-seat-pin/product/thudbuster-lt-10308
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Higher intensity reduces workout time and helps maintain muscle mass. After seeing my doc and a physical therapist, I was prescribed a new 'hip' focused addition to my strength routine. An advanced dynamic flexibility routine in order to maintain mobility, coordination and balance.
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How much distance can I put on drivetrain components? I figure the jockey wheels on my derailer will last nearly forever, but what about the rest: cassette, chainrings, and chain? How many miles, kilometers, or furlongs do they normally last? I know that there are definite signs of worn out sprockets —what sort of mileage is typical before the point where the wear is significant enough to require replacement? This is for a commuter/touring bike with Shimano 105 components that is reasonably well maintained. I clean & lubricate the chain every few weeks. <Q> Personally, I've never tracked the mileage of my drivetrain components. <S> But I do know that I replace chains far more often on my commuter bike than on my road bike. <S> Ok, I pulled out my copy of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance... <S> Chain life: 1,000 - 1,500 miles in dirty conditions or infrequent lubrication. <S> Lighter cyclists riding on clean, dry roads might expect 2,000 - 3,000 miles with poor maintenance and up to 5,000 miles with a daily high-quality lubrication. <S> Zinn also says that he gets almost infinite life out of his chainrings and cogs! <S> He said that in the section on checking for chain elongation. <S> Here in Portland, commuting year round, I'm probably near the bottom end for my commuter bike. <S> wdy <A> Drivetrain components tend to wear in this order: <S> Chain Rear cassette/sprockets Front chainrings <S> (and the teeth on your derailleur's jockey wheels may last, but the bearings may not) <S> The chain is usually the culprit for wearing out the other two. <S> As it wears, the distance between links effectively increases, and the mismatch between the links and teeth will grind away at your gears. <S> So the key to making your cassette and chainrings last is to change the chain before it wears too much. <S> I use a Park Tool chain measuring device -- it slots in between the pins on the chain <S> so it's a bit more accurate than a ruler. <S> Keeping the chain clean will help increase its life. <S> Also keep in mind that 9- and 10-speed chains (and perhaps 8 as well?) are narrower than the other chains. <S> Their construction allows more gears to fit in the same space, but it also means that they wear much faster. <S> I've stayed with <S> 9-speed and my chain lasts at least 1500km with a lot of riding in wet weather. <S> Every time I've pushed it (and ignored my chain tool's advice), I've had to spring for a new cassette afterwards. <S> I remember chains on my older bikes (7-speed) lasting much longer than this. <A> I've heard different rules of thumb (rule of thumbs?) <S> about how much use you can get, and remember none of them. <S> Not stretch like taffy, but gain overall length due to the pins and bushings in the links wearing down, getting slightly more room in how they link together. <S> Once the chain stretches it wears the teeth of the cassette and chainrings much rapidly. <S> Bottom line: lube and clean your chain often enough and everything else will last longer. <A> As darkcanuck mentions, make sure you check the chain for wear and when it gets outside of acceptable limits change it. <S> If you don't then you'll end up having to change other components too. <S> I left mine too long (much, much too long) and ended up having to buy a new cassette and chainrings. <S> The rest of the drivetrain may survive for years but only if you look after the chain properly and and replace it when necessary.
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What I do know is that not lubeing a chain often enough--actually, cleaning and lubeing--will cause it to wear such that it 'stretches'. Mileage will vary greatly depending on the riding conditions and component maintenance.
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Which states or countries have stop-sign-as-yield laws for bicyclists (Idaho stop law)? In Idaho (PDF) , bicyclists are allowed to treat stop signs as yields, and red lights as stop signs (essentially; see the actual law for details). This seems like a very reasonable approach, balancing the fact that bicycles are smaller, more maneuverable, and less dangerous for crossing intersections against the fact that you still do need to stop at red lights and be safe when going through intersections. Are there any other states or countries that have similar laws? 49-720. STOPPING — TURN AND STOP SIGNALS. A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a stop sign shall slow down and, if required for safety, stop before entering the intersection. After slowing to a reasonable speed or stopping, the person shall yield the right-of-way to any vehicle in the intersection or approaching on another highway so closely as to constitute an immediate hazard during the time the person is moving across or within the intersection or junction of highways, except that a person after slowing to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a turn or proceed through the intersection without stopping. A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a steady red traffic control light shall stop before entering the intersection and shall yield to all other traffic. Once the person has yielded, he may proceed through the steady red light with caution. Provided however, that a person after slowing to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a right-hand turn. A left-hand turn onto a one-way highway may be made on a red light after stopping and yielding to other traffic. <Q> Utah also considered it, but several groups including a large group of experienced bicycle commuters opposed the change. <S> The main reasons are: <S> It further designates cyclists as a "different" road user, possibly making it easier to limit our access to the roadway. <S> It has the potential of increasing the conflicts at intersections (the most dangerous area for cyclists) because cyclists can behave differently than other vehicles, and motorists may not know what to expect. <S> While I like maintaining momentum, and recognize that I can see farther, sooner than motorists, I believe that being predictable is more important. <A> but failed to win enough support to be passed. <S> California and Montana have considered adopting similar laws , but they have not yet been brought to their respective legislatures. <S> Here is an an animation explaining the law: http://vimeo.com/4140910 <A> E.g after all the other “legs” have a red light and the cyclist can see that all traffic have stopped. <S> In is normal practise in some towns… <S> So a law allowing cyclists to treat a red light as a “stop” could work well <S> , however I think the “come to a complete stop” needs to be enforced well. <S> We don’t have many “stop signs” in the UK, <S> the ones we have are on junctions when you cannot see to “give way” without stopping, so in the UK <S> I think cyclist should always stop at a “stop sign”. <S> In some parts of the EU, there are separate lights for cyclists at junctions that turn green a short time before the normal lights turn green, so letting all cyclists clear the junction before motor vehicles start <S> moving.(The fact that in most of the UK the advanced stop lines for cyclists are ignored by car drivers so are worthless due to the lack of enforcement may make this pointless) <A> Virginia's law, mentioned by Jacob, allows for bicyclists or motorcyclists to proceed with caution through a red light after 120 seconds or two cycles of the light (presumably the latter part is intended for turn arrow signals, where the light cycles but the rider doesn't get the signal they need). <S> So it's less liberal than Idaho's law. <S> The idea is to keep cyclists from being trapped at signals that only change based on a sensor in the pavement, which often can't sense bikes or motorcycles. <S> I don't think there is any modification to the effect of stop signs. <S> http://forthunt.patch.com/articles/bikes-can-run-red-lights-under-new-virginia-law-2 <A> While we do not have Idaho Rules here in Washington, there has been a push for it at times. <S> A "dead red" law took effect for cyclists earlier this year, but that's a far cry from Idaho Rules. <A> Washington State's Senate just passed a bill to allow this. <S> It passed by a wide margin and should clear the house as well. <S> https://app.leg.wa.gov/billsummary?BillNumber=6208&Year=2019&Initiative=false <A> As of this writing, it looks like the list of states with Idaho Stop <S> laws includes: Arkansas Colorado (opt-in per municipality) Delaware Oregon <S> There's a longer list of states with "Dead Red" laws that explicitly permit a cyclist to proceed through a red that won't turn green (typically because embedded induction-coil sensors don't pick up bikes), although there are inconsistencies between them. <A> I'm not aware of any Minnesota law that allows cyclists to treat a stop sign as "yield" (though it's common practice, and I've never heard of anyone being stopped for it if they do so in a responsible manner). <S> The regular vehicular law allows a vehicle to "proceed with caution" through a malfunctioning red light, and arguably a light that does not sense the presence of a bicycle is "malfunctioning". <S> But this law would only go into effect after a cycle of the light had clearly missed the bike.
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In the UK cyclist are not allowed to go through red lights , however at some junction the safest time for a cyclist to move of when waiting in the advanced stop box at a red list is just before the light turns green. So, in the US, it sounds like Idaho is still the only state with such a law. Idaho passed their law in 1982 and it was brought up in the Oregon legislature
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Frequent blow outs in the same location I keep getting blow outs in my front tube and always in the same location: right next to the valve stem. The blow outs look like: On this same tube, there is wear on exactly the other side of the valve stem. I have checked the tire and the wheel and there doesn't appear to be anything sharp enough there. What can cause this? I suspect it's something that I'm doing. I'm tired of buying new tubes, as I hear these flats cannot be patched. If it matters, it's a presta valve and I usually inflate to 110 psi, the maximum. <Q> Is the rim tape intact? <S> Does a spoke push through when weight is placed on the bike? <S> One of my friends had a problem like this, and it turned out that when he sat on the bike his weight caused the end of a spoke to push through the rim and puncture his tyre. <A> A few things come to mind: Using a presta tube on a rim designed for schraeder valves. <S> This would cause wear around the valve stem. <S> See <S> "Can I usea a presta tube in a schraeder rim? <S> " for more details. <S> Worn out rim tape near the valve. <S> Does the tape look worn? <S> Is there some nasty edge or burr under the tape that's getting through? <S> Try replacing the rim tape or doubling it up in the area where you're getting the flats. <S> Tubes getting nicked when you install them. <S> When replacing your front tube, do you put the valve stem in first or last? <S> (first is better) <S> Is it possible that the tube is getting pinched against the rim edge when putting the tire back on? <A> The picture of your blow-out doesn't show up for me, so I'm guessing a bit based on your description. <S> Do you use the little nut that comes with the tube and threads down the stem of the presta valve? <S> Typically, you'd thread this nut on and screw it down to the rim after installing and inflating the tube. <S> The nut provides a bit of support for the vavle stem against the rim. <S> If you are using this nut, you may be overtightening it. <S> The symptoms if this is the case will be the valve stem separating from the tube where it joins the tube.
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Check inside the rim at the point where the punctures occur. If this sounds like your problem, I'd suggest you either don't fit the nut or you only fit the nut after you've inflated the tube in the tyre, and that you make sure you don't tighten the nut too tight.
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How often should I grease and repack my hubs and bottom bracket? I am commuting 7 miles a day (round trip) in all weather in New England (temperate, moderately wet climate, cold winters). Overall I am putting about 1000 miles per year on my commuter bike, a 2009 Giant Transend DX with lower-end Shimano components (Alivio and whatnot). I lube my chain and check brakes and tire pressure weekly, but how often do I need to get the hubs and bottom-bracket taken apart and lubed? <Q> Looking at the spec of your bike it says the BB is a cartridge unit. <S> This probably isn't serviceable -- it's designed to be replaced when worn out, so just keep riding it until it grinds or gets excessively sloppy. <S> The hubs might be serviceable. <S> If you ride a lot in nasty conditions, or you're aggressive with the degreaser you might want to service them. <S> However, if they're well-sealed (like most modern hubs and in particular Shimano hubs) then they almost never need servicing. <S> If you're worried, learn how to service them yourself and see what they look like. <S> If they're still packed with grease and nice and clean inside <S> they don't need servicing. <S> Servicing them isn't hard <S> but it's a bit fiddly -- you'll lose a bearing under the fridge, then you won't be able to remember if there should be 9 or 10 balls, and whether they're 3/32" or 1/8" or 5/32", and so on. <S> Don't do it for fun. <S> I ride a lot. <S> My Campagnolo Neutrons have probably seen 10,000+ km. <S> In that time I've had a look at the bearings once or twice. <S> Still greasy, still smooth. <S> The rims will wear out before the hub bearings do. <A> This is a very subjective opinion. <S> A standard like "change your oil every 3000 miles <S> " doesn't exist as far as I know, although here is a suggested one . <S> I ride about 3,000-4,000 miles a year and my rule of thumb is to do the hubs every 300 - 500 miles or so, and the bottom bracket twice a year. <S> Works out to a hub overhaul about every other month. <S> Both of these are more frequent than the suggested schedule. <S> That said, there have been a couple of times I have ridden in an area and ended up with the bottom bracket or hubs completely submerged. <S> When that happens I like to overhaul them at my earliest convenience; preferably within a day or two. <S> Another point here is - I do the maintenance myself. <S> Hubs are easy and you should be able to learn to do them yourself from a book and with a $10-15 investment in tools - bottom brackets are a little harder and you will probably just want to include that as part of a "shop service" unless you want to learn and invest a little more in doing your own maintenance. <A> At 7 miles a day on road riding , assuming you have well sealed hubs and bottom brackets I would expect you to be able to go well over a year before having to grease and repack. <S> A lot depends on the space you have and if you are happy to do the work your self – if you have a warm dry workshop then you may decide that doing maintenance more often is a good trade of to make your components last longer. <S> However if doing the maintenance is a pain to you, or you are having to pay a bike shop with all the inconvenience of taking the bike to the stop in your car, you may decide that you would rather just replace the bike/components after a few years. <S> Greasing and packing your hubs every time to put on a new tire on is a good option, as it is easy to remember to do it. <A> A friend of mine goes to the trouble of installing a grease nipple in the shell of each hub. <S> Then, instead of having to take the hub apart, all you need to do is pump more grease in every so often and wipe the excess that comes out around the axle away. <S> This has the advantage of pushing any dirt and gunk out of the bearings when you add more grease. <A> As far as I know, most modern hubs and bottom brackets are designed not to need service. <S> Bottom brackets in particular are often constructed in a way that they cannot be disassembled. <S> My experience: <S> My bike (good quality, but not top-of-the-line) is about 7 years old, and I ride around 2,000 km per year. <S> I have never serviced the hubs or bottom bracket, so far without any problems. <S> I don't do extreme off-road riding, but I do cycle in winter and in the rain, plus the bike is sometimes parked in the rain. <S> So if you are not using your bike under extreme conditions, you may not need to worry about maintaining the bearings at all. <A> Water (and its cousin mud) more than anything affect grease bearings. <S> When they are freshly packed pay attention to how easily the wheels spin when you hold them off the road or the bike is upside down. <S> Then do this every so often and if they seem to be getting even the least bit slower then it is time to pack. <S> You will get a feel for their condition over time. <S> and I ride mine through everything.
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I would personally with your type of riding, only consider getting the bottom bracket done when the bike has to go into the shop for something else or after a few years if you have not had to visit the bikes shop in the mean time. I do mine every 1000 to 2000 miles The more rain, and or mud that you ride in the more often you will need to repack your grease bearings.
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Will using dry lube and wet lube together give you better protection/performance than from using just one of them? I think the only way to use them together is to put on dry lube first and then wet lube.Will the wet lube hold? Will applying both give you the best that each has to offer? Update Just found this video on YouTube. It teaches you three techniques to clean your chain. If you forward to timecode 8:20 of the video. He mentions that you can put on Finish Line's Dry Teflon Lube and later you can put another lube on top of it: Just wondering if this is ok. Update Just bought some Finish Line products to do some chain maintenance. On the back of the Finish Line product pamphlet they have a list called "Pro Team Mechanic Tips". Two of the items on the list contain techniques that use two different lubes/greases on the same chain...I've included them below... In extremely wet conditions, some mechanics will lube the chain with WET lube, then apply a top coating of Teflon Grease to the chain. In semi-wet conditions, some will apply DRY Lube to the chain as a base coat, and then a top coat of WET lube. So, I think based on this list and the video link I found above. Applying both lubes is an acceptable technique. <Q> I don't think so - they are designed to be used individually, and for a specific purpose. <S> Like I answered to a previous question , the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for. <S> Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions. <S> This will pick up dirt and gunk, but it will be mostly kept on the surface and will help keep water and other corrosive substances out of the links. <S> Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet "gunk" left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc. <S> and is great for dry, dusty conditions. <A> I asked a friend about this. <S> He's a bicycle mechanic, and he sent me this in response to this question: <S> I don't think it will do any harm, I just doubt it will do much good either. <S> First of all, my experience makes me think that "layering" lube isn't going to do much, since the motion of the chain pivots (the lube only works <S> INSIDE the chain, where it pivots, all the lube sitting on top of your chain does nothing but attract dirt) will simply stir the two lubes together and mix them up, so <S> the order that you put them on isn't going to have a measurable effect. <S> Second, I don't know what benefit you'd get by blending the two. <S> Teflon "dry" lube is a great all around lubricant which attracts relatively little crud. <S> However, in very wet conditions it washes off pretty easily. <S> Wet lubes are stickier and pick up more dirt, but don't wash off as easily in wet conditions. <S> What the video he referenced may have meant is that you don't have to clean dry lube off your chain before putting on additional wet lube. <S> It is possible that you can "thin out" a wet lubricant by mixing it with a lighter lube to get an in-between mix, I've never really experimented that much. <S> The only way to really damage your chain with lubrication would be to use something like motor oil which hardens with prolonged exposure to air, to allow a sticky lube to attract too much grit which will wear your chain down, or to rely entirely something like WD-40 which evaporates within 48 hours and leaves your chain effectively unlubricated. <A> After some experimentation with dry and wet lubes I've found that they are -indeed- designed for what they're named after. <S> In summer I'll use dry lubricant. <S> My chain will pick up less dust and other crap <S> but if I get caught in the rain I need to clean and re-oil <S> my chain immediately after or <S> it'll start to rust. <S> The rest of the year I use wet lubricant. <S> My chain picks up more gunk but less of it comes off the road when I pass, so that evens out, and with the wet lube my chain can take a few showers before I have to clean and re-oil. <A> Doubtful. <S> Differing lubricants can act as solvents for each other, causing it to drip out and be lubeless. <S> This was attributed as the cause of Alaska Airlines Flight 261 crashing; differing maintenance crews lubed the horizontal trim jackscrew with two different lubricants. <S> They dripped out, the part failed, and the jet crashed. <A> They will work one against the other. <S> If it was such a good idea, you could probably find a pre-mixed bottle at your local bike store.
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So by mixing wet and dry lube you should get a coating of lubrication that... well, picks up a lot of dirt but doesn't wash off easily in wet conditions.
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What is a reasonable speed for long distances on a bike? I am curious what a reasonable speed to travel on a bike is. Speed will obviously vary based on the conditions in which you are riding. I am planning on taking the GPS out with me this weekend to see how quickly I go. Before I did that I wanted to get some benchmarks. For the most part I will be riding an older road bike on crushed rock. (Very small rock, with good rolling resistance but still much worse than pavement). I will also be riding that road bike on the road (i.e.: pavement in North America, Tarmac in Great Britain). What is a reasonable speed on these two surfaces? I am more interested in speed over long distances, i.e. if you were going 80 km what would your target speed be? <Q> Some of my observations (cruising speed based on a flat, paved road in good condition): 20km/h (12.4 mph) <S> - many "occasional" cyclists ride around this speed 25km/h (15.5 mph) - most commuters 30km/h (18.6 mph) - fast commuters, slower roadies 35km/h (21.7 mph) <S> - fast roadies any faster than that on a long flat and they're probably a racer (based on who I pass and who passes me when riding around 30km/h) <S> Average speed will usually be slower than you think, once traffic stops and hills are factored in, especially over longer distances (like 80km). <S> On my 21km commute I'll hit 30+ on every long stretch I can, but my average still only works out to 24km/h. <S> For longer rides I cruise around 27-28 km/h, which is more sustainable; averaging 22-24 over a very long ride (200km) <S> is a great pace for me. <A> Average speed is extremely dependant on: <S> Your fitness (main factor) Weather (particularly wind) Road surface quality Interruptions like traffic lights, dog-walkers on bike-lanes Accumulated fatigue over multiple days <S> How hilly the terrain is (although this can be balanced out by the faster descent) <S> As you mentioned, best way to see is using a GPS and seeing how fast you go.. <S> I've found over the course of about 6-months of riding, my average speed over long rides is around the average of my shorter rides <S> (I'm classifying "long" as around 150-200km, and "short" as maybe 30-80km) <S> For example, here is a plot of my distances vs average speed: <S> (the axis's are in km/h and km) <S> The >50km rides averaging 25-30km/h are mostly group rides. <S> Ignoring those, beyond about 80km begin to converge to an average of 20km/h (although at 80km I've ranged from about 15-25km/h, but this includes when I just started riding..) <S> These numbers are all specific to me, and even still they vary (particularly over time): <S> These averages are spread over a few different bikes (start to April was on a hybrid bike, April to mid May was on one road bike, and the rest was on a different road bike) - but, the spikes are almost all related to either terrain (there's a large dip in July related to a Strava hill-climbing challenge), fatigue (the dip in August was another Strava challenge, to cycle long distances over consecutive days), or other factors mentioned above Sorry for the rather rambly answer, but it hopefully conveys that average speed depends on a lot of factors, and it's hard to give a specific answer <A> I've already answered this question, but this is a different answer; I've recently started using a website called Strava (they do also have iPhone/Android apps as well as accepting GPX uploads which can be generated by many platforms and devices <S> - I use MotionX-GPS for the iPhone). <S> Their (I think unique) central point is to allow users to defined specific 'segments' of their ride and then anyone whose uploaded route passes over that segment is included in a virtual league table. <S> This allows you to easily compare yourself to others over short routes, climbs, sprints and so on. <S> So long as you cycle in reasonably populated areas, you'll be amazed at how many segments your ride already covers, at least around the London area, I was. <S> (I've no connection to the website, apart from being a satisfied, paying customer.) <A> Randonneuring or Audax riding is about riding audaciously long distances for the pleasure of riding audaciously long distances. <S> ( www.audax.org.au ) <S> One method involves riding at 22.5km/h (14mi/h) in a peleton for up to 1000km. <S> Another method involves riding at any pace above 15km/h (9.32mi/h) (up to 600km) or 13.33km/h (8.32mi/h) (1000 / 1200km). <S> I would suggest that the reasonable speeds for very long distance riding are 15km/h total average including breaks up to 600km, or 13.33km/h for 1000/1200km/h rides. <S> As a result I feel good when I make 15km/h of actual time when riding long distances, and try to improve my riding so that I'd be able to make 15km/h of actual time including sleep for longer distances. <A> How long is a piece of string? <S> Your speed is totally dependent on your surface, equipment, bike type ... and you! <S> I keep a record of most of my training ride (for the last few years with GPS, but summary data going back further) and compete with myself. <S> If you're interested in what you should/could be doing, maybe liaise with a local club. <S> On my commute my rolling average with lots of braking and accelerating, is a good mph or two lower than training rides (further, but quieter roads) with race pace being another mph or two higher; cyclo-cross and off-road is completely terrain dependent so your mileage really will vary enormously <A> Here's an article with average speeds for various different cases. <S> Pick a sustainable heart rate and stick to it, regardless of momentary or average speed. <S> In long distances, if it's not racing with tactics and all, it is important to go steady. <A> Lots of great answers, but one variable not mentioned is whether you are riding alone or with others. <S> The effects of drafting is significant. <S> I'm at least 2 mph faster riding with others since I can spend much of the time in their wake. <A> If if you live somewhere where the law lets you ride on the pavement, you should not be going over about 8mph as pavements are for walkers.
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When doing longer than 100km distances, I find it useful to guide by heart rate not speed. Speed varies widely by cyclist, depending on fitness, road conditions and traffic. And if you have professional road aspirations, you'll want to average at least 25-27mph.
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Where can I find replacement screws? I have a handful of rusty screws on my bike; where can I find such small parts? <Q> Most bike screws are 4, 5, or 6 mm allen bolts. <S> Any bike shop will also have these in stock. <S> On the net: <S> Loose Screws bicycle small parts Planet Bike does free shipping on small parts (scroll down a bit to rack hardware and such) <A> Bike shops usually carry even the most obscure screws. <S> It's a good thing to get to know your local bike shop and be "friendly" with its staff, when you're missing small parts like that <S> (a screw or two, or small replaceable parts from the derailleur let's say) they might even give it to you. <A> Those are called stem bolts. <S> I'm not sure what size those are, but all bmx stems use the same sized bolts and you can get a new set of 6 for under $10 at your local(online) bike shop. <A> Many decent hardware stores (at least in the US) will also carry them. <S> Look in the fastener section of the store, where I usually find them is in the collection of small boxes that holds all of the oddball hardware.
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You could probably hunt up some stuff in your local hardware store, just bring your bike along.
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If I don't use a torque wrench, how do I tighten to the approximate torque? What can go wrong? I don't think I can drop $50-$100 for a torque wrench right now. What parts of a bike are the most critical to get the torque just right? Is there a way to make sure the torque is ok without a torque wrench? I know what would happen if you don't tighten enough. Too tight is probably better than not tight enough!Is there a way to make minor adjustments based on some sort of observation or feel? <Q> You can't approximate torque by feel. <S> If you use ti/aluminum bolts, carbon components, high end aluminum do not cheap out, get the torque wrench. <S> If you tend towards stainless/steel bolts and less expensive components, you can forgo the torque wrench and just ensure you are working to even torque. <S> For example, if it is a faceplate make sure that the gap between faceplate and stem is even all the way around. <S> Saying 'too tight is better than not enough' is not true. <S> Too tight can create stress risers in a component (specifically I am thinking handlebar) that can lead to catastrophic failure down the road. <S> Too tight on a square taper crankset (specifically the fixing bolt) can cause deformation of the taper fit and eventual loosening of the crank. <S> Hopefully that helps. <S> Noticed <S> I didn't answer the question fully. <S> Faceplate/Bar interfaceStem/Steer interfaceCrankset (whether pinchbolt or square taper style BB) <S> Those are areas where I would ensure proper torque. <S> Seatpost is dependent on style of bike (ie. <S> Madone seatMAST, or carbon post/carbon frame) <S> as to whether torque is super important. <S> Rotor bolts, brake mounting bolts etc... but with increasing importance as exotic materials increase. <A> In my area, Community Cycles is a non-profit organization promoting bike riding. <S> For a modest membership fee (less than the price of a torque wrench) one gets access to their bike shop's tools. <S> Their site includes a list of other bike collectives in North America , which might be a good alternative to buying your own tools each time you need a new one. <A> Bolts will also break, sometimes leaving a very hard to remove bit in your frame. <S> Not tightenough <S> and it will work loose, and then you know to do it a bit tighter next time. <S> (You don’t need to be spot on with torque, just not a long way over or under) <S> However wheels and brakes are not hard to do without a torque wrench, so a lot comes down to what maintenance you will be doing and how much your bike is worth. <A> You said Too tight is probably better than not tight enough! <S> That is incorrect - Too tight <S> is just as bad as not tight enough. <S> What can go wrong? <S> When its too loose, things slip under pressure, or there's enough slack to allow small amounts of motion, which cause wear. <S> And this can happen when its too tight. <S> Yes, the eagle-eyed among you will notice I managed to break two rotor bolts while reassembling this.
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Too tight and something will break , it may be the thread on the bolt, or much worse the thread on in the hole. Loctite, grease, carbon compounds can all alter the 'feel' when you are tightening down bolts and if there was anyway to 'approximate the feel' these variables render it fairly impossible.
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How long should a road tyre hold its pressure? How long should a road tyre be able to maintain a pressure of around 100psi, and what factors are likely to reduce this time? Background: My tyre pressures are consistently dropping to around 60psi after about a week (three commutes, total ~50 miles), which makes the bike feel sluggish and less responsive. I've only recently got a road bike, but I've always had mountain bikes - they've always held around 30 psi for weeks and weeks with no problems. I'm wondering if it's the higher pressure that's causing my tyres to need inflating more frequently, or something else? This answer to another question , and some other answers I've seen suggest that you should check your tyre pressure every day , but is this to be cautious or are you likely to actually have to inflate your tyres every day? <Q> As they are high pressure and low volume they tend to lose air quicker than that of a tube that is low pressure and high volume (MTB). <S> With daily inflation checks you will vastly reduce the instances of pinch flats, which IMO are typically the result of too low pressure. <S> Butyl tubes, the typical tube, retain their pressure better than their Latex counterpart but still ... check regularly. <S> This touches on why your tyres leak down ( <S> solubility etc) <S> : Is there a difference in having tires filled with CO₂ vs air? <A> Inflating daily might be a bit more work than necessary. <S> Inflate them before every ride. <A> With 23s at 100psi you may need to inflate daily. <S> My 35s run at 100psi <S> and I need to inflate every 3-4 days, and relative leakage rate increases as tire width decreases. <S> But two things: Use decent quality tubes, and beware of some brands. <S> Some "racing" tubes are very thin and leak very rapidly. <S> Ask the guy at your LBS which brands they get complaints about and stay away from them. <S> Don't over-tighten the valve. <S> There is a rubber gasket in the valve that can be damaged by over-tightening. <S> Air pressure is sufficient to hold the valve closed, and the nut is there just to secure the valve on bumps, etc. <A> My recommendation is that road bikes get inflated before the first ride of each day. <S> With lower pressure mountain bike tires I find that the pressure is acceptable if I've inflated them within the last 7 days. <A> Another thing is that it is highly worthwhile investing in a good track pump (known as floor pump elsewhere in the world). <S> Here in Australia you can get a reasonable one for around 70-80 AUD. <S> With a track pump it takes only a minute or two to top up the tyres and check their pressure. <A> With 700x28 tires @ <S> 110psi, I only inflate them about once every two weeks (if I remember), or right before a major ride. <S> I always give the tires a quick squeeze before every ride just to make sure neither has developed a slow leak. <S> Daily inflation, or before every ride seems like overkill to me. <S> When you connect a pump or gauge to measure your tire pressure, you're probably losing up to 5psi just from air used to fill the pump/gauge (plus any leakage while getting them lined up right). <S> This gets worse the smaller your tires are. <A> I use 700x23c tires with 120 psi recommended. <S> In my experience my tires lost about 5-10 psi in a day with riding and slightly more if I don't ride for a day or two. <S> I check the pressure and fill it to recommended before every ride. <S> Avoid pinch flats, and damage to wheel-set, check and fill tires to right pressure before each ride. <A> the figures you'd quoted seem to be normal, i check and pump mine at least once every 3 days when i used to ride regularly. <S> unlike car tyres the bike tubes have much lower material density but the pressure held inside is 3x higher than your typical city car tyres ... <S> , in that case you need to replace the tube too.
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From my experience with 700x25c tires at 115 PSI, I find they lose about 5 PSI after 24 hours, just due to the natural properties of the rubber. I ride a few times a week, and it's part of my standard pre-ride checklist to give each tire about 3-4 strokes on the floor pump, or whatever it takes to get them back up to 115. Do yourself a huge favor, inflate them daily. if you are really paranoid, get some commuter grade tubes which have thicker walls hopefully they hold the air longer, another possibility is that you have a crooked valve
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Does the plastic cap on a Presta valve serve any purpose once fitted to a rim? I can see the use of the valve cap on a Presta valve when the tube is still packaged (it obviously stops the valve puncturing the tube), but does it do anything except look pretty (or not) once you've fitted the tube to a rim? I've kept them on out of habit, because I've had problems with sticking Schrader valves in the past when I've lost the caps and dirt/grime has got in there - but the design of Presta valves suggests to me that they wouldn't suffer this fate. Given that I really need to inflate tyres on a road bike every day , is replacing this cap something I can leave out of my daily chores? <Q> The cap keeps dirt and rocks away from the valve, particularly the fragile release mechanism. <S> It's not the end of the world if the caps are missing, but I suggest leaving them on. <S> They don't take that long to remove and replace. <A> Nobody has noted this yet, so maybe I'm particularly clumsy. <S> The caps prevent you from bending the somewhat delicate presta valve stem if, like me, you're fitting a fairly beefy lock between your spokes every day. <S> I smacked mine pretty good after a groggy morning commute, and it bent the valve stem pretty severely. <S> They're somewhat known for snapping off when you try to bend them back, but I was lucky in that regard. <S> Ever since I've kept valve caps on. <A> They have one big benefit on road / commuting bikes - they stop the valve corroding and seizing due to the salt and crap they get exposed to. <S> On a mountain bike, this isn't such a problem, as the salt gets washed off by puddles and mud (and you tend to wash your mountain bike more). <S> That's been my experience in the muddy, wet UK, when the roads are salted for over half the year. <S> I leave them on the road and commuting bikes, and leave them off the MTB for speed of tyre changing. <A> <A> In case someone still reads this, in addition to protecting the valve, you can cut the plastic top off with a knife or razor blade at a gas station and you have an instant Schrader adapter! <A> I don't use them is if someone is into racing and we are looking at changing a flat being important down to the second. <S> In that case it is just another impediment to speed. <S> Otherwise it keeps the system (whether presta, schrader or dunlop) clean and easy. <A> There is a bit of rubber inside the Presta valve: <S> Leave the valve cap off and oxygen in the air gets to the rubber causing it to perish. <S> This problem will take time to develop, however it will do regardless of where you live, where you ride and how often you clean your bike. <S> If that bit of rubber goes then you need a new tube or a new valve insert.
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Keep the cap on to protect the valve from accidental damage, dirt, salt and oxygen . On my MTB I leave them on to keep mud from crudding up the works. On road and commuter bikes they are useless and I toss them.
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How are the categories for climbs decided? In cycle racing, there are five grades or categories for climbs - Category 4, 3, 2, 1 & Hors (Above Category or HC). How do they decide what is category 1 and what makes it so hard it is a HC? <Q> As noted above, part of the ranking of a climb depends on its placement within a stage: usually, the ending climb of a stage gets "bumped up" by a category. <S> You can see that in the plots below, which show climbs as categorized by the organizers of the Tour de France itself for the 2012, 2007, 2005, and 2004 editions of the Tour, and plotted by the length of the climb and its average gradient. <S> If given the length of the climb and gradient, you can calculate the total elevation change for that climb, and the dotted contour lines in each plot show that. <S> Cat 2, 1, and HC climbs are named. <S> For example, in 2004 the Vilard de Lans climb was classified at a Cat 2 climb rather than (evidently) a Cat 3 because it was the end of the stage. <S> Similarly, in 2005 the climb to Pla d'Adet ended the stage, and it appears that its category was also increased from (arguably) Cat 1 to HC. <S> As an aside, the Madeleine was climbed in both 2004 and 2005 <S> but, as you can see, the length and gradient of the climbs were different in those years. <S> In 2004, the Madeleine was climbed from the southern side; in 2005 and 2012, the approach to the Madeleine was from the north. <A> As has been mentioned, the actual categories are fairly subjective. <S> Things such as the fame of a climb as well as how the organizers feel about giving out King of the Mountain points on a given stage will affect rankings. <S> That said, there are some general rules of thumb if you want to get an idea of how your local climb rates up to a given ranked climb in the tour though. <S> There are always exceptions to climb rankings, but this should give you a basic list to start with. <S> Category 42km <S> or so @ <S> 6%4km or so @ <S> < <S> 4%Category 32-3km @ <S> 8% (or less on average, but <S> with very steep pitches)2-4km @ <S> 6%4-6km @ <S> 4%Category <S> 25-10km @ <S> 5-7%10+km <S> @ 3-5%Category 15-10km @ <S> > <S> 8%10-15km @ <S> 6%HCOften Category 1 climbs as the last climb of the day15+km @ 8%+ (Alpe D'huez, etc.)20+km @ anything uphill. <S> (Galibier is ~=4% over 40km if I recall correctly) <S> As I mentioned though, you can find exceptions for any of these. <S> Some examples would include: 2006, the TdF included the Cauberg, a key climb of the Amstel Gold race. <S> It covers about 1.5km with an average of about 5%, it was ranked Category 3. <S> There are a couple hundred meters @ <S> 11% on it and placed just before the finish, it shattered the peloton. <S> 2010, stage 12 finished just after the Col de la Croix Neuve. <S> This was ranked as a Category 2, despite being only 3.1km long. <S> It averaged 10% though, so hardly easy. <S> Many of the category 4 climbs in the early flat stages would be unranked on a hillier stage. <S> They exist <S> so there is excitement in the king of the mountains classification early. <A> For Strava climbs there is an objective categorization that is length in meters times grade in percent, with this categories: <S> score = length(m <S> ) * grade(%) <S> Cat 3 : <S> score <S> > 16000 <S> Cat 2 : <S> score > <S> 32000 <S> Cat 1 : <S> score > <S> 64000 Cat HC : score > 80000 <S> For example Alpe d'Huez has a length of 13800m and average gradient of 8.1% (according to Wikipedia), giving a score of 111780, which would place it as a HC climb since its score is way above 80000. <A> Another criterion which seldom makes a big difference is road condition. <S> Some people feel that the ratings have been inconsistent over the years, or have been inflated in recent years. <S> In short, there is no scientific way of rating the climbs <S> , it's just a judgement call from the race organizers. <S> Note, others have indeed tried to quantitatively rank the climbs. <S> You could apply their methodology to climbs near where you live to figure out how a local climb might be ranked at the end of a tour stage. <A> I prefer the cycling lore that it was decided by which gear of a Citroen 2CV you needed to be in to drive up the hill/mountain. <S> For HC climbs you had to go up them in reverse. <S> Scientific? <S> Not so much. <S> Perceived Gallic? <S> Mais oui! <A> Another important criteria is where the climb is placed. <S> If you put an otherwise cat 1 climb at the end of a mountain stage with an uphill finish, it becomes an HC climb. <A> I was told by Doug Dailey (a club cycling colleague and long ago British champion, British Cycling legend), that the categories were historical, and based on early Citroen capabilities (1920’s ?). <S> If said car could only go up a hill in 1st gear, it was defined as category 1. <S> If it could do it in second, category 2, etc. <S> Sounds plausible and very French. <S> J
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The tour organizers rank them subjectively based on their steepness, length, and also where they occur in the stage (climbs near the finish garner a higher ranking).
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What brands of repair stands are sturdy? I'm considering getting a repair stand, used if I can find one. Aside from the obvious (Park Tool stands), which ones are well-made? I'd like to try and snag a good one on an eBay auction if I can for very little money, but I don't want to waste my time with a piece of junk that will fall apart on me. <Q> I have a Velomann V2500. <S> They are made in Italy. <S> The stand is great overall. <S> Very stable. <S> My only complaint is that the clamp is a little bit fussy. <S> Getting the bike into the stand is a bit of a pain. <S> (Once it is in no problems though). <S> If you where working on 20 bikes/day this would cost you endless annoyance however if it is just for your personal use <S> I would defiantly say get it. <S> I think that a Parks Tools Stand would definatly be better quality <S> but I only paid $109 (Canadian) for this stand. <S> In Canada you can buy it from MEC (they will ship internationally <S> but it is probably cheaper to order it from somewhere else). <A> A friend has a Topeak stand. <S> I forget the model but it has "Pro" in the name. <S> My friend likes it and it seems sturdy and functional to me. <S> I've had a Park stand for years and as far as I can tell I won't be replacing it any time soon, if ever. <A> I got a Feedback stand from MEC . <S> VERY sturdy and adjustable. <S> Folds up <S> so I can hang it from a hook on my garage wall, too. <A> Also collapses to a reasonable size to go in the shed <S> (hung up next to the ladders. <S> Evans Cycles: <S> Park PCS10 <S> Folding Repair Stand <A> , I've been using it for a while and <S> 2 things annoy me, the clamp is screwed which takes time to get a bike on and there's shaft that insert into each other to shrink it, the middle ring is loose and at a certain height, the smaller shaft slides down. <A> If you are on a budget and need a quality repair stand for your garage or workshop, do consider the two-hooks in the ceiling and two bits of rope method. <S> The idea is that you have two hooks in the ceiling spaced approximately a metre apart. <S> These hooks are the ones that you can get in bike shops for storing bikes with and typically cost less than £10. <S> The rope has to be fairly thick, 20mm or thereabouts. <S> With both pieces of rope you need to put a loop around each end and tied with a simple knot. <S> Length depends on your ceiling height, with one loop going from the hook, around the saddle and back up to the ceiling. <S> The other loops around the stem in the same way. <S> When the bike is suspended from the hooks and rope it needs to be level and with the brakes just below your eye-line. <S> The two-hooks method gives you better access to the whole bike as there is no stand in the way. <S> This is particularly useful when setting up the gears. <S> Another benefit is that you do not have a stand molesting your paintwork as can happen with those stands that have cheap jaws. <S> Perhaps the greatest benefit though is speed. <S> To hook the seat through the loop of rope and feed the second rope around the stem takes seconds, with a proper posh stand this can take a lot longer, which is not that fun if the bike is heavy or the front wheel flops around a bit. <A> I like my Spin Doctor Pro G3 due to the stable tripod base that works well inside and out on a variety of surfaces. <S> Though it might not be necessary for some, I like that I can swivel the bike around the main vertical post to reposition my working angle on the bike (sometimes I'm on a stool). <S> I don't think it's as easy or even possible to do that with some of the bipodal stands. <S> Some people do not like the spinning knob used to operate the clamp. <S> I find that it allows a nice sense of how tight I'm clamping various bike tubes as I close it. <S> When I'm forced to clamp a thin tube on a road bike frame, I'm not quite as paranoid that I'm going to scratch or dent it. <S> I'm also less likely to hold the frame tube at a bad angle and slam a clamp closed onto it because of the gradual but still quick and easy process.
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I use the Park Tools Folding Repair Stand and have found it very sturdy and reliable. When working on the bike (whilst it is hanging from the ceiling) there are situations when you will have to steady the bike, there are also a few tasks (such as removing a crank) when the improvised 'stand' may not be up to the forces you apply to it, requiring you to drop the bike to the ground to get 'a bit more purchase). I also have a Feedback stand from MEC !
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What pedals should I upgrade to for racing on the road and possibly track? I currently have SPD pedals on all of my bikes. I've stuck with them so far as they worked relatively well and I couldn't justify having two types of shoes. I can justify two types of shoes now. These pedals/shoes/etc would be for my road bike and likely used on the track as I am going to spend a bit of time at the local velodrome this winter. My primary criteria is probably strength, with price second. I'm a sprinter and saving money is always good. Weight doesn't really matter at this point. The Look and Shimano road pedals look good, but they have a number of different models across the board. Any suggestions or ones to stay away from? <Q> They offer a carbon version if you decide to spend the extra bucks for the lighter version. <S> Popular and well-liked pedal with the extremely common Look cleat style. <S> I picked my pair up from probikekit.com, they had the best price at the time and offered free shipping but YMMV. <A> This will probably be fairly subjective. <S> I ride with Time MTB pedals and keep up with anyone in my category. <S> Stick with known brands <S> and I'm sure you'll be fine. <S> Time, Look, SpeedPlay, Shimano, Crank Brothers... <A> I ride Speedplays and will never ride anything else. <S> Due to the amount of float it's unnecessary to have an intensive cleat fit for these. <S> So basically you can spend $50 less for Looks or Times, but then you have to spend that on a cleat fitting, if you want them adjusted correctly. <S> That being said, some people don't enjoy the amount of float. <S> Newer Speedplays have adjustable float, though. <S> I would definitely try a pair before making a decision. <S> I love them. <A> On the track you want a pedal with little float, on a road bike <S> you'll want a bit more, but they will both still be a lot stiffer than your current SPDs. <S> I presume you'll be using your own pedals on the track bikes <S> so it isn't a question of needing to liaise with the track to confirm to their standard. <S> I use Look Keo on the road bike mainly because there's a decent selection of pedals available so the upgrade path just isn't something to think about. <S> Some decent background reading .
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I would recommend the Look Keo Classic pedals if you are not hyper-sensitive to the weight.
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How do I stop my EBB (Eccentric Bottom Bracket) from creaking? I have a '09 Felt Niner 29" SS with an EBB. After a thorough clean and reassembly of the BB the creaking will subside for a ride or so and then come back. Any suggestions? EDIT: the problem appears to be dirt getting into the bottom bracket area. The combination of sweat, water bottle drip'age or post ride spray down results in dirt getting into the BB area. The only way I can see to prevent the creaking is to somehow seal off the exposed face of the BB preventing dirt from getting inside. <Q> Your mileage may vary, but this has worked for me. <S> Try using some telfon tape around the outside of the EBB before you put it in. <S> It's cheap and you can get it at a local hardware store in the plumbing section. <A> Try greasing the interface between parts. <S> The bolts provide enough clamping power to prevent slippage. <S> Also confirm the creaking is indeed coming from the EBB. <A> This particular EBB has two set screws which press into the EBB cups and prevent them from rotating. <S> Due to the gear ratio that I'm running and the pressure I'm applying my EBB is slightly rotating which then causes the screws to scrape metal off part of the EBB cups. <S> The fix as someone jokingly made once was to get a new frame and ditch the EBB. <S> I think I've come around to their way of thinking. <S> BTW I tried all the other alternatives with no luck.
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The resulting metal fragments find their way into the EBB chamber and are what result in the creaking. As it is now I have to remove and clean the EBB once every 1-2 weeks.
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How to make studded tires Has anyone ever made a set of studded tires? What did you use? I read about a method somewhere but I cannot recall where. I heard that you can: Drill/make a small hole through the tire Screw a screw through the hole Cover the screw in part of the screw with duct tape I am somewhat skeptical if this would work or not. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking rivets might work better. Picture source. <Q> ICEBIKE has a good page describing studded tires , including how to make your own. <S> Count the knobs and evenly spread out the 25 screws for each side. <S> Punch holes, from the outside of the tire, into the designated knobs. <S> Use Robertson bit in the drill to drive the screws in the tire from the inside. <S> Put liner inside tire and make sure it covers the screw heads <S> Put a generous dusting of baby powder between the liner and the tube. <S> Mount tire on the rim (ouch! <S> watch out for the points!) <S> Inflate to maximum pressure. <S> Put the wheel on the bike (mind the points). <S> Spin the wheel to make sure that the studs don't catch on anything. <S> I think the takeaways here are that you don't need screws in every tread block and that the screws shouldn't be in the center. <S> Screws placed in the center of the tread will simply wear down quickly; you really just want them on the outer tread blocks, positioned such that they barely touch the ground when the bike is upright. <A> You can also create semi-studded tires by wrapping zip-ties around the tire , with the lock in the same position the screws are shown in the illustrated answer. <S> You'd need a bike with disk brakes for this to work. <S> So for a road bike it would probably be slightly less than practical. <A> I built a set from baldies by driving screws through the knobs--advice on this is very common and I won't dwell on it here. <S> I used mine all winter in the UP of Michigan (we get as much snow as Duluth and upstate NY). <S> A few tips: <S> Use hockey stick tape (NOT DUCT TAPE) as the first line of defense on top of screw heads inside the tire . <S> The easiest way to do this is to stretch it out 2 feet at a time and wear jeans to avoid annoying scratches while stuffing it inside. <S> You will likely need to use multiple strips depending on the size of your tire (I recommend lefty, righty and a center strip). <S> Use a blown-out tube as the second layer of protection . <S> Don't have any dead tubes? <S> Don't worry, you will... <S> My usual strategy for changing tires has me putting a few PSI in the tube and stuffing it into the tire while it is partially inflated and holds its shape--do this but tape the dead tube around the good tube with more hockey stick tape <S> (I have found that every other method I've attempted was awkward). <S> Give the bike a good test ride after it has chilled to eliminate simple problems. <S> Realize you will most likely have two flats after your first 4 mile ride (unless you're stupidly lucky, in which case just buy lottery tickets and real snow tires with the winnings). <S> In all seriousness though, bring at least one spare tube and at least one spare tire on your first ride in addition to a bike pump and something that can artificially reduce your frustration level (chocolate has worked in the past for me). <S> I have found the process of making winter tires to be quite iterative . <S> Keep this in mind as you tread forward (pardon the pun). <A> Try using bike chain. <S> Deflate tire, put chain around tire and rim. <S> Do the same around tire. <S> Reinflate tire with air, and ride. <A> and I thought it was really useful. <S> These are geared more for off-road mountain bike riding than on-road riding (with studs in the center of the tire), but you could easily just leave out the center screws. <S> They line tire with an old road tire to protect your tube from the butts of the screws/studs. <S> Just check out their blog here for the details: http://thickbikes.com/blog/?tag=stud
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A local pittsburgh bike shop, Thick Bikes, put up instructions on how to DIY some cheap studded mountain bike tires The basic process is as you describe: drive screws from the inside of the tire and cover them with something to protect the tube. Zap straps/cable ties are useless.
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How to make a cargo trailer? This page is for a general answer and it consists of at least two main parts: personal experience and technical part. The technical parts are perhaps the two hardest parts. Has anyone attempted to make a cargo trailer for their bike? How did you do it? How has it worked? How long did it take? Would you do it again? Technical parts with their own separate questions How can you make a trailer hitch between a bike and trailer? How can you attach/mount a wheel onto a trailer? <Q> I've made several and documented at least some of them: <S> 2 wheel trailer 1.6x1m: <S> http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/megatrailer 2 wheel trailer 0.8x0.4 <S> m: <S> http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/shoptrailer <S> 12 more of the above with a better design <S> a four wheel, inertia braked trailer 2 wheel, single sided wheel mount trailer with telescoping drawbar <S> I much favour the mass produced design because it's easy to weld or braze together and quite robust. <S> The chain-in-spring hitch is reliable and durable and very hard to break (the chain links eventually wear though but that takes years). <A> I made a trailer similar to this one . <S> It's based on using a second hand aluminum backpack frame and lightweight conduit. <S> This one connected very simply to a carabiner attached to the seat post. <S> At the time I had access to a drill press which simplified things for someone building it alone - you will want help keeping things aligned if you don't. <S> A friend built one out of a large container like this very simply - again connecting to the seat post. <A> Haulin' Colin has built about 30 trailers using a fairly simple MIG-welded steel box-frame design using square tubes. <S> I can attest to hauling several hundred pounds in one easily, with uphills being slow and downhills pushing the limits of my bicycle's braking system to the limits. <S> Recently Duncan Cycles has been documenting his construction of a TIG-welded steel-tube version of the same design. <S> If you have the know-how and the equipment, welded or brazed designs are going to have significantly higher strength for the same or lower weight as a bolt-together design. <S> I also helped with this monstrosity of a trailer built around a shopping cart specifically to win the Idiotarod . <S> I wouldn't recommend it unless you absolutely need to incorporate a shopping cart into your design. <A> The guy's at Umwelt <S> und <S> Projektwerkstatt Freiburg e. V. <S> (Germany) are developing a three wheel trailer for heavy loads. <S> It's named Carla Cargo <S> and it's Open Source Hardware. <S> Their documentation is just at the beginning (they spend their time more with building and trying out new stuff, than with documenting) and until now only in German. <S> The dimensions can be seen at Werkstatt Lastenrad . <A> Here is a bad shot of mine with the first cargo load. <A> I paired a Trail-Gator seat post hitch and a quick disconnect tie rod end like this one ( http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=16 ) that lets the bike lean while keeping the trailer flat on the ground. <S> If memory serves me correctly, the stud thread is 5/16" (8mm). <S> I'm also sure that McMaster-Carr carries the same type of connection. <S> The trailer I built was also inspired by a Burley Travoy, so towing children is not an issue in this case.
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I made a trailer using a kit from here which was inspired by finding this .
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What is your favorite/preferred road shoe? I recently purchased Specialized Sport MTB Shoe for my Dual Shimano pedals . Love the clipless pedals, but this specific shoe seems to rub/apply pressure to both my big toes after a long ride. They fit, but I think the tip of the shoe is too tough, or made cheaply. They only cost $90, so I thought I might need to invest in a lighter, softer, more expensive shoe. I have been using them for about a month everyday to work/back, and weekend rides, figured they're broken-in enough. Not really sure, and I know the community here will be able to help. Which is your preferred, favorite? <Q> My preferred cycling shoes are the ones that feel good <S> and I can stand to be in all day. <S> Currently for road cycling I have Specialized and before that it was Sidi. <S> I have some Shimano mountain bike shoes for commuting. <S> I have no idea what I'll buy the next time. <S> I'm a bit obsessive about shoe fit <S> so I usually wind up trying on several pairs before I walk out of the LBS with a pair of shoes. <S> One thing is that I ignore brands other than as an indication of quality and previous experience. <S> Two, I start out by trying on the same model I have if I liked it. <S> Three, I compare at least 2 others. <S> And also, look at the shoe as to quality and construction. <A> I've always come back to SIDI shoes <S> no matter how many other pairs I've tried on. <A> I recently bought a second pair of Bontrager Street shoes to replace my first pair. <S> They're comfortable, they come with removable, customizable insoles. <S> They're leather and thus pretty waterproof unless the rain's really heavy. <S> They've got recessed cleats so I never need to change my shoes when I get to my destination. <S> They also look quite nice. <S> Thinking about it, since I cycle to work and then don't change them, I spend most of my waking hours wearing them! <A> I have two pairs of road shoes - the SPDs on my commute bikes (because I need to clip in and out a lot and possibly to walk around at the end of the ride) are very comfortable ... and are exactly what you have. <S> You could take a more precise look at the setup - if you move the cleat slightly, perhaps the location of some application of undue pressure might shift and relieve the toes?
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Been almost 10 years with a pair of SIDI shoes powering my cycling.
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What hand signals work best for cyclists in the US? I am looking for some guidance on what hand signals and strategies to keep me alive on the roads. <Q> Actual legal signals: <S> Left <S> I'll often point with two fingers to help convey the message. <S> Right Turn - hand out straight to the right; mirror of the left turn. <S> † Stop (or slow) <S> - Left hand straight down with palm flat. <S> Commonly recommended but not necessarily exactly what the law says: <S> Merging - Point at the lane position <S> you're merging to. <S> Or point straight, the same as with a turn. <S> Straight forward (at intersection) - point forward. <S> † <S> In most of the US, left hand straight up (palm forward) and upper arm straight to the left to signal a right turn is a legal alternative or the legally preferred signal, but many drivers will misinterpret it. <A> Being a motorcyclist, I stick to the standard hand signals using the left arm. <S> At least in Arizona (other states may vary) this is listed as the official method for turn signaling, and even appears in the Driver License Manual . <S> Left arm straight out: <S> Turning left. <S> Left arm <S> bent pointing the hand straight up: <S> Turning right. <S> Left arm <S> bent pointing the hand straight down: <S> Slowing down. <S> Looks like this ( image credit ): <S> If it appears that I'm dealing with a total moron (at a stop sign, for example) I will occasionally throw the right arm straight out to say that I'm turning right, but this is fairly rare. <A> The Right Turn and Stop signals (using the left hand) make sense when driving a car, since you can't stick your right hand out the window, but on a bike the right-arm/right-turn signal is probably more intuitive and therefore understandable. <A> As a Brit coming to the States and trying to negotiate cycling not only the other side of the road but these variations of hand signals is a little daunting. <S> In Uk left arm straight out is left turn right arm straight out is right turn and right arm (remember we are on the left side of the road) straight out but waving up and down is slowing or stop. <S> The rude sign to taxi drivers of course is the left or right V sign ( the other way round to the peace sign man) <S> I now know I am now too old to deal with he consequences of using this sign and while here in California I shall be the model of politeness as a gracious guest of your extra ordinary county. <S> safe cycling all. <S> Bill
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I highly recommend using the right hand straight out to the right version (either with palm forward or pointing with your fingers), since many people are either unfamiliar with the left-arm-straight-up signal, or misinterpret it (perhaps even as a rude gesture). Turn - hand out straight to the left (with palm forward (not down or up). Looking over your shoulder in the direction you're going to merge can also help make drivers aware you're planning to merge.
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What are the accepted hand signals for cyclists in the UK? see also " What are the accepted hand signals for cyclists in the US?" <Q> From a UK government website I found the following document (linked from a page about the Highway Code for cyclists). <S> Signals to other road users (scroll to the bottom for cyclist information) <S> Left arm out - "I intend to move in to the left or turn left" <S> Right arm out - " <S> I intend to move out to the right or turn right" (Right) arm up and down - <S> "I intend to slow down or stop" (very rarely if ever used...) <S> In reality you will find only the left and right signalling used by UK cyclists - any other gestures would not be understood by enough other road users to make them worthwhile. <A> When I'm turning left I put my left arm straight out. <S> When I'm turning right <S> I put my right arm straight out. <S> Then I do the Hokey Cokey..... <S> sorry got a bit carried away there. <S> I vaguely remember from my Cycling Proficiency test that flapping your right arm up and down signals that you're stopping, but in the more than 30 years since I passed it I don't remember ever using it. <A> In addition to the normal right, left signals, I also like to give little friendly waves to any drivers where they've demonstrated a rudimentary knowledge of the highway code, such as not turning across my path when I have right of way. <A> I use all four official hand signals when cycling. <S> This is in the UK of course. <S> Turning right: <S> Right arm out. <S> Going straight across (for junctions): <S> Right arm bent out at the elbow with hand pointing up. <A> In Canada, It's <S> Left <S> Turn <S> : Left arm straight out. <S> Right Turn <S> : Left arm bent up at the elbow. <S> Stop/slow down: <S> Left arm bent down at the elbow. <S> The right arm isn't used because it's harder for drivers to see. <S> I thought the rules were pretty universal. <S> But according to @Amos, they aren't. <S> Actually, In the UK, I assume it would be reversed to use the right arm, sing you ride on the left and side of the road.
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Turning left: Left arm out. Slowing down or stopping: right arm out, palm down and waving clearly up and down. Essentially there are three signals for cyclists:
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What clothing is best for wet weather/cycling in the rain? I tried wearing a raincoat to keep out the rain, but find I get hot and sweaty inside. So my question is, what clothing do you find works best for you when cycling in wet weather? Thanks. <Q> Pearl Izumi is my favourite. <S> Bike specific rain jackets are a must if you are looking for comfort. <S> Generally they are very thin and have air vents in them. <S> There is no reason to wear heavy rain jackets. <S> Instead, layer up up with a base layer (often merino wool or synthetic thermals) + mid layer + the shell (which is the jacket). <S> That is probably the most common layup for cyclists and it will keep you warm. <A> I bicycle year round in the Pacific Northwest and follow the mantra: there is no inappropriate weather, only inappropriate clothing. <S> (Well, snow and ice may be inappropriate weather for bicycling) <S> Despite commuting daily, I only purchased dedicated cycling rain gear yesterday -- and only did that for better visibility and more convenient pocket locations. <S> Start out bundled up. <S> After 5-10 minutes, you'll be warm and want to remove some clothes. <S> When you do, outer layers should pack well. <S> Alternately, you can just slow down. <S> Some commuting days, I will just ride slow enough that I don't sweat. <S> Riding a little slower only makes 10 minute difference in my commute time. <S> I could often spend more time fine tuning my gear (and much more time parking a car). <S> Specifics: <S> For raincoats, something that vents well is essential and will minimize sweat. <S> No fancy fabric will do as much for sweat reduction as a zipper under the armpit and zippers that can open the coat from the bottom. <S> I used a multi-purpose Marmot rain coat in this configuration for a decade with very little sweat. <S> You will also use the raincoat on cold days to cut down on wind-chill. <S> Visibility: If you use a general purpose rain jacket, it may not be bright. <S> These have the advantage that you can use the vest when it is too hot to wear your high-visibility rain jacket. <S> Gloves are essential on days below 50F. <S> I just used ski gloves in the winter. <S> I got some waterproof cycling gloves that I'll try this winter. <S> Long underwear (as used for skiing) will extend your cycling season by months. <S> My legs and feet usually warm up fast. <S> As noted by Kibbee , make sure your socks are not cotton. <S> They will stay warm even if wet. <S> I bring an extra pair of socks for the way home to avoid the yucky feeling of putting on wet socks. <S> Much cheaper than waterproof booties. <A> There is nothing more annoying for me that arriving to work and have the shoes and socks wet, there is no chance for them to dry completely before the journey back home <S> so you will end up putting the wet stuff on. <S> I tried some cheap waterproof overshoes first but they did not really work in any heavier rain wet conditions, basically after 10 minutes you were the same as not wearing them at all. <S> Then I bought overshoes made of neoprene, and they seemed to work a bit better, but again after about 15 minutes in the heavy rain the shoes were all wet - to be fair <S> they kept the feet warm, so were better then nothing in the winter but still did not serve well the purpose of keeping the feet dry. <S> 2 years ago I eventually invested in the Gore Tex overshoes and finally it is something that actually works. <S> I have about 35-45 minutes commute journey and so far they kept me dry. <S> So my advice would be to invest in a quality gear from start- <S> it will save you the annoyance and in the long run the money as well. <A> Rainclothes designed for cycling, preferably in a material that "breathes" (Goretex being the best known, I think). <S> You will still get wet from the inside if you go too fast, but this type of material is way better than "non-breathing" varieties. <S> I have a Gore Bike Wear Path jacket and pants that I am pretty happy with. <S> Rainclothes for biking is essential in rainy Denmark :-) <A> Biking raingear is always a compromise. <S> Do you want to get wet from the rain or from sweat, or a little bit of both? <S> I use a Foxwear jacket and pants, and I stay dry if I go slowly and don't work up a sweat. <S> The material is warm but somewhat wicking and water resistant. <S> In the summer I'll be more likely to change into lycra for the ride and just get wet, changing when I get to my destination. <A> I usually just put up with the wetness. <S> The best are clothes that don't absorb water, and therefore don't get heavy when they get really wet. <S> If I'm going to work, I have a change of clothes anyway, and otherwise I'm usually just going out on a recreational ride, and will be back home after I'm done. <S> One thing I would recommend is a pair of gloves with good grip. <S> Personally, I use MEC CyclPad gloves, as they are quite cheap, and provide quite a bit of grip from the rubberized palms. <A> And, of course, once you've got where you're going, you'll feel a lot better about yourself if your belongings are dry. <S> I have an excellent Ortleib, courier style bag, which is totally waterproof, sealed by folding over the top. <S> If you can change into dry clothes (in particular dry socks and shoes), embracing the wet is a lot easier.
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You are getting some good advice here on rain jackets, but the part of the accessory for cycling in rain that I find critical are a good quality overshoes - especially for commuting. Lightweight polyester or microfiber materials do the job. Generally: Layer so that you have options. You can get reflective vests of various styles from bicycle shops.
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How do I get rid of this clicking sound in the back wheel? Difficult to diagnose, I know. Basically, I bought a single speed Schwinn a few months ago, and after riding it for a couple of weeks it started clicking in the back wheel somewhere. I've taken it in for a tune-up, mentioned to them there was a clicking sound, but they didn't notice anything (or didn't pay attention), and it still clicks. It doesn't click, however, if you just pedal it with your hands, but seems to have something to do with putting your weight on it when you're actually riding. Should I just take it in again? Or is there something cheaper I could look at? <Q> The problem could be the lubrication on the rear hub. <S> Perhaps it wasn't well greased at the factory. <S> A tune-up should have caught this problem, particularly as you mentioned it. <S> Another possibility is that there is a ball bearing missing from the rear hub, so that once every time the wheel turns around, the axle falls into the small gap created by the missing bearing (this happened on my daughter's new bike after about 3 months of occasional riding). <S> If the bike is still under warranty, then I would take it in. <S> The problem should have been fixed the first time. <S> If you want to try fixing it yourself, you will have to take off the rear wheel and disassemble the hub. <S> This isn't hard, but if you've never done it before, try finding a local bike shop that will show you how. <S> Some towns have co-op bike repair shops where for a small fee you can use their tools and there will be a mechanic on hand to guide you.(for example <S> Ottawa - http://www.re-cycles.ca , Waterloo - http://www.theworkingcentre.org/ct/cycles/cycles.html ) <S> Try looking at this wiki for a shop near you. <A> Clicking from the back wheel while pedaling can come from the drivetrain. <S> The worn parts no longer mesh together correctly and can make a clicking sound while pedaling, particularly when you push hard on the pedals. <S> For information on measuring chain "stretch," see: Problem with chain <S> `skipping` (but not trying to shift) How to know when to change a chain? <S> This is more likely to happen on frequently-used or smaller cogs (fewer teeth across which to spread wear). <S> This doesn't apply to your new bike, but users with older bikes who happen upon this question may find this helpful. <A> I had a bike making noise only when pedaling up a slight hill. <S> After two visits to Safety Cycles on Western Ave. <S> in Hollywood,CA. <S> It was still making noise. <S> Then it finally broke. <S> They said they had never seen this before, but that it was a defective freewheel.
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Specifically, it can come from a "stretched" chain and/or worn rear cogs. On Saturday July 11,2015 I carried the bike home, took it to the shop, and they replaced the part for free because the bike was under warranty.
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What height should drop handlebars be - relative to my saddle? I've done most of my cycling with flat handle bars on a mountain bike. I'd like to start commuting to work though and am considering getting a road bike with drop handle bars. The thing is though, I tried a bike in the past that had drops and didn't really find them comfortable. I hardly used the drops because it felt uncomfortable. This meant I usually kept my hands on the tops of the bars, and then that has the problem that I couldn't get to the brakes as quickly as I could with the flat bar bike I had. Perhaps I had the drops set up at the wrong height when I tried them. What height should the drops be relative to the saddle? <Q> There is no single official accepted guidance. <S> Typically the more you ride, the lower you will tolerate your bars, drops or straights. <S> Pro cyclists have them as low as 10-15 cm below saddle, while amateurs tend to have them level or slightly higher than the saddle. <S> Don't worry that you cannot spend all your time in drops. <S> Even pro cyclists prefer the more upright position with hands on top of the bars, and will typically go to drops only in critical moments (when in the front, in a breakaway etc.) <S> The thing with the brakes -- <S> well, that's just the way it is with road bikes and drop handlebars. <S> For giving up immediate access to brakes you gain more hand positions on the bars, which helps immensely on long rides. <S> With your hands in the convenient "on the horns" position, typically you will be able to apply enough pressure to the brakes to slow down, though for emergency braking you'll need to get down to the drops. <S> You can get an adjustable stem to experiment with handlebar height. <S> Just change it for a normal stem once you decide, or other road cyclists will look down on you -- an adjustable stem is pretty much the mark of a "Fred" :-) <A> The first rule is seeking comfort: adjust the height until it fits for your body. <S> Generally, drop bars are used for road bikes to optimize the biker's performance, because they provide an aerodynamic position. <S> Try different heights until you find the height that fits you. <A> I'm a road cyclist with a bit of experience, and like most of us, without ever having been a champion, so I trust my thoughts may be useful. <S> It could also be the result of a bike that is the wrong size for you, i.e., too big, forcing you to stretch too far. <S> The shape of the bars may also be at fault, some angles suit and some don't. <S> I've changed handlebars in the past to ensure a comfy fit. <S> Most of your riding will be on the tops, only some in the drops. <S> From both positions you must be able to firmly engage the brakes. <S> You must be comfortable when riding, injury can potentially result otherwise. <S> Saddle position fore/aft may also be a factor in your stretch limitations. <S> I'd recommend seeing your local bike shop, and getting a bike fit. <S> But remember everyone is different when it comes to flexibility, leg, arm and back length, and riding style and position preference. <S> For example, I've got short legs, and a long back, so typically buy a frame 1-2cm larger than an otherwise a 'normal legged' person would, to get the frame length right. <S> I compromise as a result in that my drop from the saddle to the handlebars is only 6cm instead of perhaps 8-10cm, but it helps me on hills, and is easier on my back, which at age 48, is useful as I'm not as strong or as flexible as I was when I was 22. <S> Once you are set up, some minor modification of your position can be found with experimentation, and some miles under your belt. <S> I trust this helps. <S> All the best with the riding. <A> The difference from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars at the stem can be down to around 3" or 75mm. <S> Assuming the bike is the right size and everything else has been set up correctly. <S> Wind resistance only really becomes a major factor when you get up to speeds around 30kmph and higher. <S> Or riding into strong winds. <S> So an aerodynamic position may not be necessary for many recreational cyclists. <S> At higher speeds riding in the drops may restrict their VO2 efficiency slightly but the benefits of lowered wind resistance will far out weigh the loss. <S> The longer the ride the more <S> the cyclists weight should be balanced over the cranks remain comfortable. <S> Over reaching and lack of flexibility are the main causes of fatigue and discomfort in the back and shoulders. <S> You have to be comfortable or it will not only affect your performance but your enjoyment of cycling.
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If you find the position of the drops uncomfortable, this is perhaps due to your bike setup being wrong for your particular body shape. Most bikers adjust them to about 3/4 cm below the saddle. There are guidelines, but no one rule fits all.
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Do mountain bikers yield to hikers? I've seen rules and graphics online that basically say that bikers are to yield to hikers. Is this the generally accepted rule, and if so, how do you define "yield"? BackgroundThe areas I normally hike are wilderness areas (US) so I don't encounter cyclists very often. Yesterday I found myself on a trail that is very popular with mountain bikers and can honestly say that while hiking uphill I think that most of the cyclists barely bothered to slow down to allow me to step off the trail. Coming down and normally being approached from behind they would slow and pass with comment like you normally would on a multi-use path. I'm not being critical of the behavior of the cyclists - and in general I found them to be courteous - but it seemed that the expectation was that I would get out of the way, especially while I was hiking uphill. <Q> The usual trail etiquette rules are, basically: Cyclists yield to everybody <S> Everybody yields to horses <S> If you're both cyclists (or both hikers, etc), somebody going downhill yields to somebody going uphill <S> So as a pedestrian going uphill on a narrow path, the cyclists were supposed to yield to you. <S> However, if you looked like you were stepping off the trail, they probably assumed you wanted to let them pass. <S> Yield means something like: slow down to the hiker's speed, and if needed pull to the side and let the hiker pass, and depending on conditions would likely mean needing to stop entirely. <S> See also: http://www.imba.com/about/rules-trail <S> http://www.imba.org.uk/WhereToRide/TrailEssentials.html (the UK says "Give Way" instead of "Yield") <S> http://www.romp.org/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=8#hikers <S> Cyclists that don't yield on trails scare other trail users and eventually lead to controversy over cyclists on the trails and possibly closing or limiting access for cyclists to those trails. <S> For instance, Mount Tamalpais was important to the original development of mountain biking, but cyclists are now banned from many of its trails. <A> Communication is key. <S> I have a cowbell I attach to my bike when riding on trails <S> so people know that a bike is coming. <S> Or that a cow is speeding toward them. <S> Either way, the trails I go on are vacant, save for the occasional hiker, and they're often courteous enough to move off the trail in order to let me go by. <S> I thank them as I pass by because hikers do have the right of way. <S> When hikers hold their ground, I have to clip out, go to the side of the singletrack path, and then lean my bike as far as I can toward the brush so the hikers can get by my handlebar. <S> Is it bothersome to yield to hikers? <S> Absolutely. <S> But I think crashing into someone is worse. <S> Especially with all the lawyers here in California. <A> In most cases these paths, e.g. in Snowdonia, are not open to cyclists anyway. <S> Obviously if you are on a path used by walkers then you go at a fairly pedestrian speed and give them lots of room. <S> However, there are other trails that are not so popular with walkers <S> and you kind of expect to have them to yourself. <S> Negotiating the terrain without falling off is really the name of the game and 'oh there could be a walker ahead' is not really what you are thinking about. <S> Equally they might not be expecting mountain bikes to be heading their way. <S> So, even with the best of intentions, there are occasions when mountain bikers will set a bad example to others enjoying the great outdoors.
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In the UK the general idea is to not go mountain biking on the 'tourist' paths that walkers use.
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what benefits does a road bike give over a regular mountain bike for casual cycling? I'm a casual cycler, for recreation. I have a carerra kraken, MTB with front suspension and wide tyres. I use this for forrest trails and local back roads cycling (normally do a 15mile or 30 mile route once a month, all road with several inclines) What benefits would a road bike give me for countryside cycling? I've never actually used one and wondering what I would "get" out of investing in one <Q> This is because they are: Lighter - Less mass to get up to speed and keep moving. <S> More rigid - less flex, so <S> the bike itself absorbs less pedal energy, meaning when you pedal, more of that energy is used to propel you forwards. <S> Less suspension, as suspension on a mountain bike works by moving oil/air around, and that warms up - you're providing the energy to warm the suspension up instead of moving forwards. <S> Have higher gears, so you can go further for one revolution of the pedals. <S> Have thinner tires - <S> For less contact and friction with the road that would slow you down. <S> Have higher pressure tires - <S> So they squish less and don't use up energy. <S> Get you in a more aerodynamic position <S> so you incur less wind resistance. <S> But, this might mean you feel less comfortable. <S> You might get: Fun from choosing one and getting bling'ed up with a new shiny bike you can show off and take pride in. <S> The buzz/addiction for cycling more and wanting to go on longer rides. <S> The ability to keep up with other road cyclists who you can be buddies with, especially if you join a cycling club. <S> Fitter because you cycle more so you live longer. <S> A strange desire to wear lycra which will show off your body better and may attract the opposite sex, and you might end up with a better sex life. <A> Aside from increased speed on pavement, the main comfort-oriented benefit to a road bike is drop handlebars. <S> You get a ton of places to put your hands, at the cost of slightly decreased control. <S> You can help make your mountain bike more comfortable by adding bar ends (see the second picture on that link) to your flat bars and try that for a while. <S> Another option, it an expensive one, is to get a recumbent bicycle. <S> These are the ultimate in comfortable cycling. <S> They are quite expensive, but you cycle in a normal, chair-like saddle. <S> Despite having a reputation for not climbing hills as well, recumbent are fast. <S> Very, very fast. <A> For casual cycling I don’t see the benefit of a road bike if you already have a mountain bike you like . <S> If you wish to go a bit faster on roads you could change your tyres, also replacing you suspension forks with normal forks could be an option. <S> Your suspension fork may have some way to “lock out” the suspension if you are lackey. <S> If I was only cycling one a month, I would rather than have one well look after bike then two bikes. <A> I am a mountain biker, and sometimes take the mountain bike for a longish road ride. <S> What becomes clear is that the mountain bike's geometry is not designed for comfortable riding for more than a few hours straight. <S> After 20 miles <S> or so my back starts to hurt <S> and I desperately wish I could lean down and do that "resting on the handle bars" pose that you see road riders doing. <S> (I've tried, and it doesn't really work on a mountain bike ;) )
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I think a road bike gives you better efficiency so you can go further with less energy and do it quicker.
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How do I cycle up steep rocky ground? When mountain biking with my friends, we sometimes end up tackling a severe up hill over rocky ground. I usually find I end up putting a foot down first. I'm not sure what's going wrong. Sometimes my back wheel spins and I lose power and stop, or my front wheel lifts up and I somehow lose balance and end up going off to one side. What techniques can I use to get further up hill before I lose it? Thanks. <Q> Weight distribution is critical, and it is a bit of a fine balance, much like doing a track stand. <S> I find that it is easiest to do this by staying seated and crouching towards the front of the bike. <S> Standing on the pedals will tend to put your weight too far forward and make it difficult to achieve smooth power transfer to the wheels. <S> Smooth Power Transfer is another important aspect. <S> Remember that your rear wheel only has a small amount of friction keeping it from slipping. <S> What you are trying to do is keep the pressure on the pedals strong enough to keep you going up the hill, but not so strong as to make the wheel spin. <S> Things that can help with this are: Staying in a seated position Concentrating on pedalling in smooth circles, rather than <S> a in separate pushes from each foot Using as high a gear as you can manage while still maintaining a reasonable cadence. <S> If you are using your lowest granny gear, it is much easier for your legs to overpower the friction between the tyre and the ground. <S> Balance , working on your low speed balance by practicing track stands and the like will mean that you are less likely to need to put a foot down, and more likely to be able to recover from a brief "halt" in your progress. <A> A technique that works well for me is to hold the handle bars in such a way that your elbows are pointed down towards the ground. <S> This makes sure you stay low and puts pressure on the back wheel. <S> ;) <S> If you trust in yourself and don't stop pedaling, you can sometimes recover from a back wheel spin or even a dead stop. <A> This is about fore and aft weight distribution. <S> Also means you generally won't be sitting. <S> When your rear wheel spins, you have too much weight distributed forward. <S> And when your front wheel lifts, too much in the rear. <S> What to do? <S> Find a hill and practice distributing your weight until you find the sweet spot where you are neither spinning the rear or lifting the front. <S> Then there's always the cyclo-cross technique where you pick up your bike and run up the hill. <A> From my experience on slippery roots with hard MTB, it is critical to: lift your weight from the wheel hitting the obstacle <S> (that's what full suspension does for you), like you (should) do when hitting the curb, have appropriate tires (not just tire pressure), ...except for already mentioned: smooth pedaling, weight distribution (low center weight), balance (sideways). <A> Full suspension - the rear suspension limits wheel bounce <S> when going over obstacles, this helps to prevent the rear wheel spinning out Reduced tyre pressure - same concept as above Bigger wheels - I have found climbing rocky stuff easier on my 29er than on my 26er Practice...
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The back wheel is spinning because there's not enough weight towards the back of the bike because you are not sitting on the seat. As mentioned the balance (front/back) is key, but there are a few other things that help: Also, don't forget to KEEP PEDALING!
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What's the rubber tube in my puncture repair kit for? I've got an old school puncture repair kit, the type with glue and patches. As well as the sandpaper, patches, 'vulcanizing fluid' and instructions, there is a 2.5cm long, 3mm wide, beige rubber tube. What's it for? (it doesn't seem to appear in the pictorial instructions) <Q> It is the Dunlop valve, it was used a lot in Holland, UK, etc. <S> You can see it in action here: <S> But currently it is replace by the Blitz: <A> Just inside the cap <S> (that you could screw off) was the rubber tube that acted as the valve. <S> If it split or broke (usually when the rubber perished) you could replace it and be on your way again. <S> We have Dunlop valves described in the Terminology Index , and you can find more out at Wikipedia . <A> Sounds like extra material for the type of valves that aren't Presta - and not "car-like"- ( Schrader ) <S> either - Dunlop valves . <S> They use a short piece of rubber tube to seal .
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They are for old "Dunlop" or "Woods" valves, that were halfway in size between a presta & schrader valve.
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Can I ride home with a broken spoke? I noticed a wobble in my back wheel while commuting in this morning. Broken spoke. Is this a problem that I should take care of before my 7 mile commute home, or can I pick up a spoke and repair it at home? <Q> Yes you can ride home with a broken spoke. <S> I'd probably unscrew the spoke from the nipple before doing so, so that it doesn't wobble around and get caught in other bits of the bike. <A> You can even ride home with several broken spokes ; ) <S> It's not exactly great for your wheels <S> but if you take it easy (no jumps!) <S> they'll be fine. <S> I have done this many times without any permanent damage to my wheels. <S> But do take Deemar's advice about unscrewing the spoke. <A> I'm doing bicycle touring, and we do end up with broken spokes, with sometimes no place to fix it. <S> I think the longest stretch was 120km in the South of Chile, on bad roads (gravel and dirt) with one and then two broken spokes. <S> Even with the bicycle load (due to the luggage) <S> the wheel handled that, although I've just been straightening it a bit from time to time. <S> So sure, you should be fine on a commuting bicycle with almost no load. <S> Just take care of the bumps on the road (esp. <S> when going on a sidewalk, if it's a shared one) as you might put pressure on the wheel which could bend a bit == <S> > <S> the wheel could then touch the brakes if you don't have disks ones. <S> But don't wait too long. <S> It's not because it's possible that it doesn't harm the rim to have broken spokes, <S> eventhough I saw bikes in the Netherlands with quite a few broken spokes, still cycling and sometimes with 2 people on it! <S> Crazy Dutch ;-) <A> I rode a whole summer of commuting with a broken spoke. <S> You'll be alright. :) <A> While riding with broken spokes is possible, I have started to keep a pair of spare spokes taped down low on the seat tube mostly out of view. <S> I typically only seems break spokes on the rear wheel and then on side away from the gears. <S> So it's a quick fix to pull out the broken spoke and thread in a spare. <S> The wheel is far truer that with the broken spoke. <S> I only need this trick every two years or so <S> and I feel a lot better riding on and then home. <A> You should be fine as long as you can secure that broken spoke to the nearest spoke either by twisting it around the good spoke, or securing it with a piece of duct tape or bandaid which all bikers should carry. <S> As long as you're sure it won't get loose and get into the derailleur or brake. <S> You can losen it up to make the twisting job easier, but that usually isn't necessary. <S> Just take it easy on the ride home.
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Bike wheels are wonderful things that can easily put up with having a few spokes missing.
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Winter maintenance before putting bike in winter storage? What kind of maintenance should I do before putting my bike into storage for the winter? Are there any special considerations for storing it? Does temperature matter? If it's hanging on the wall from the rim all winter long, will that affect the shape of my rims? Any other winter storage advice would be nice to hear. <Q> Wash it. <S> Dry thoroughly. <S> You can even wax it if you truly love your ride... <S> Lube <S> the chain Lubricate all pivot points (derailleurs, brake handles, etc) Loosen the tension on the cables and put a small amount of grease on the cable ends. <S> If the hubs haven't been overhauled in a while you can do that. <S> Remove the seatpost and if metal apply a light coat of grease and re-insert but leave the seat clamp a little loose. <S> If carbon fiber, remove, clean and re-insert (no grease). <S> Remember to tighten again in the spring. <S> Inflate tires to full recommended pressure. <S> Store your bike in a warm place and check the tire inflation periodically. <S> If they deflate and it's cold your sidewalls are likely to crack when you pump them back up in the spring. <S> While it's unlikely that hanging the bike will result in pitting on your hub cones, spinning them a couple of times over the months can't hurt. <A> I hang them from the frame and not the wheels to make sure that there are no issues with the rims deforming over that time. <S> Otherwise, I don't do much else to them. <S> I don't go out of my way to clean them up as I'm never quite sure when I put them up if it's just for a week or the whole season. <S> I've never had an issue come spring with any parts corroding or not working properly. <A> I have always stored my bike hanging from a beam in my attic. <S> I remove my wheels, deflate the tyres and remove all items attached to the bike that are not integral (bike bag, lights, bottles, etc.). <S> I hang the weels from seperate hooks. <S> I always leave a tray of dehumidifier near the location to make sure that any stray moisture in the air is soaked up. <S> Below taken from Calfee " Thankfully! <S> An opportunity to dispel the myth that one shouldn't grease a carbon post! <S> I don't know where the myth started, but carbon composites are not affected by grease. <S> Our advice is simple: If the seatpost fits tight, grease it. <S> If it slips, de-grease it. <S> As has been known for many years, when aluminum and carbon fiber contact each other, galvanic corrosion can start. <S> That is why Calfee uses a fiberglass sleeve as a seat tube shim. <S> Aluminum seat tube (or sleeve) and a carbon post will result in corrosion of the frame and possible seizure of the post within the frame. <S> A carbon sleeve on an aluminum post will result in corrosion of the post. <S> Salty environments accelerate this corrosion. <S> Anodizing merely slows it down. <S> About the only common chemical that will hurt carbon fiber is paint remover (which attacks the resin between the fibers). <S> But there are many solvents that will dull a nice paint job. <S> Craig Calfee "
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I always remove my seat post and apply some form of a carbon paste/grease to the post before popping it back in. I store my bikes in my unheated garage and hang them from the ceiling. If hung, you may want to periodically take it down and spin the wheels (and the crank) and then hang it again.
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At what age/stage should my child be at before I start using a child seat? Does anyone have any experience or references on when it is ok to start putting a child in a bike child seat/carrier? I am aware that our child will need some extra neck strength to not bobble around too much with the added weight of having a helmet on his head. <Q> The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute , the US Consumer Product Safety Commission and the American Academy of Pediatrics agree that: ... <S> Until this age, infants have not developed sufficient bone mass and muscle tone to enable them to sit unsupported with their backs straight. <S> Pediatricians advise against having infants sitting in a slumped or curled position for prolonged periods. <S> This position may even be exacerbated by the added weight of a bicycle helmet on the infant’s head. <S> In some US jurisdictions it is illegal for children under the age of 1 to be passengers on a bicycles as well. <A> In the Netherlands the accepted age for first bicycle rides is about 9 months. <S> The main point to watch out for is that many bicycle seats are a bit big for children that age <S> so you have to take special care <S> they can't bounce or climb out. <S> Recently bicycle adapters for maxicosi chairs have appeared such as the one below. <S> Thus you can also transport babies on a bicycle: <S> If you have a cargo bike you would typically use one of these for your baby. <A> If you use a trailer its pretty much the same as using a pushchair (stroller) and indeed some double up (I wouldn't get one that doesn't) - you'll get a 5 point harness, a seat that reclines and you can get head cushions and the like too. <S> Of course a trailer may not be practical in your circumstance (though I'd be surprised) <S> but if it is it also helps deal with the problem of all the other stuff you want to carry when going out with a small child. <S> One other option for practical as opposed to more recreational use is a cargo bike or trike of some sort <S> - I'd've loved one of these a Nihola or a Christiana Trike - in which you can put the same seat/carrier you'd use in a car 'til they're of a size to sit up. <S> There are also Dutch cargo bikes that can similarly be equipped with benches, rain covers, etc. <S> But I'd probably still have wanted a trailer too for longer rides (-: <A> As others stated, for sitting in a bicycle seat <S> the child should be able to hold their head (9~12mo). <S> But in a Bakfiets <S> (e.g. Babboe) <S> you may transport even newborns in a Maxi-Cosi, with much care of course. <S> ( source of image^^ ) <S> ( source of image^^ ) <S> ThisMomBikes <S> has a nice and long blog post about biking with babies .
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children under 1 year of age should not be on bicycles. Children are just learning to sit unsupported at about 9 months of age.
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Good books on mountain biking What books do you know about learning mountain biking. <Q> I am an avid reader, and while I agree that the best way to learn is get on your bike and ride, I like to have a book to refer to and enjoy when riding isn't an option. <S> I have three recommendations: Riding Skills : Mastering Mountain Bike Skills by Lopes and McCormack - great descriptions, photos and diagrams. <S> Can really help you become familiar with terms and techniques. <S> Now in it's second edition, so if you get it from the library you may want to see if they have the newest. <S> Maintenance : Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance - unless you are interested in shelling out $200+ for a shop quality repair guide, this the 'bible' of mountain bike maintenance. <S> Again, there are multiple editions of this book. <S> Training : <S> The Mountain Biker's Training Bible by Friel <S> - A little dated now, and a lot of crossover with Friel's book The Cyclist's Training Bible. <S> Really designed for someone who wants to coach themselves to better performance; it requires some work on your part to develop the plans. <S> Hope you enjoy one or more of these. <A> They are a bit old now, but many of the fundamental techniques are the same, and the graphic presentation really helps to get the "image" of the skill into your head. <S> Mountain bike! <S> : a manual of beginning to advanced technique <A> I've just read Mountain Biking <S> The Manual which was a good read. <S> There's a lot of information inside covering a wide variety of topics. <S> I've also read Riding Skills mentioned in another post which is also very good. <S> I know everyone learns differently but for me I find that reading books is a very good way to learn about techniques you will use when out on your bike. <S> If you can read a good description of what you should be going then you can visualise yourself doing it and putting it into practice on the trail becomes easier. <S> Also it gives you some glue about which areas of your technique are lacking and how to improve. <A> It is difficult to actually learn anything physical from a book - the best way is to go out and do it - find a local trail, start riding and you'll meet plenty of people who are happy to help. <S> What you can get from books on mountain biking are trail guides, maintenance guides, etc. <S> Basically all the peripheral things you will need to know to get the most enjoyment form the sport. <S> If you're reading, you aren't riding , and the best way to learn is by riding!
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I found William Nealy's books to be quite good when I was learning how to mountain bike.
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Pros and cons of auto bike rack types I just bought a car and my girlfriend has a similar car. We don't really want to scuff up the cars with the types of racks that use pressure points on the trunk. Neither car currently has a hitch at the moment. Neither car has a roof rack nor the ability to put one on as far as I know. What are the pros/cons of installing hitches and using a hitch rack vs. buying one rear rack and switching it between cars as needed? Edit: We went to REI today and picked up the Yakima SuperJoe 2 . After trying to fit it on my car, there's no way it's going to work because the inside bike will rub on the car and not sit correctly because of the pedal. We are going to go back tomorrow and grab the Yakima SuperJoe 3 because it should give us more distance from the car. <Q> I've used a trunk rack myself and only put a little denim pocket I made over the pedal of the inner bike and haven't had any troubles with it leaving marks, even after transporting a mountain bike from Mississippi to Massachusetts using it. <S> Before I started using the denim pocket, I did have an occasion where I wasn't careful with the pedal and scratched the trunk lid, but that was it. <A> The Thule T2 is the way to go. <S> The T2 uses trays so that you just set your bike on the tray and lock it down. <S> It is a hitch mount so you will need a hitch on your car. <S> The pros are that it is super easy and hassle free to use. <S> Additionally you can put heavier bikes on here that you wouldn't be able to put on most bike racks. <S> The downside is that it is a bit on the expensive side (though REI is having a 20% off sale right now...) http://www.rei.com/product/799935 <A> Here's a comparison from REI's Car Racks: How to Choose : Roof Rack <S> Cost : $$$ Pros : <S> Most versatile system; more secure and stable; unimpeded access to car doors or rear trunk <S> Cons : Some hoisting and reaching required; wind resistance; may not fit in low-clearance spaces Hitch Rack <S> Cost : $$ Pros : Simple installation; easy to load and access bikes; some models allow clear access to rear door; good for frequent use <S> Cons <S> Cost : <S> $ Pros : <S> Less expensive; portable; easy to load and access bikes; can be used on multiple vehicles; good for occasional use <S> Cons <S> : Interferes with access to trunk or hatch; bikes may sway and contact one another Spare-Tire Rack <S> Cost : $$ Pros : <S> Easy to load and access bikes; provide clear access to trunk/rear door <S> Cons : <S> Dependent on tire size; can carry 2 bikes max; bikes may sway Truck Rack <S> Cost : $$ Pros : Easy to load and access bikes; can handle heavier loads; can be attached to tool boxes Cons : Bikes dominate storage capacity within truck bed Cargo Box Note : not for bikes <S> Cost : $$$ <S> Pros : <S> Enclosed, lockable gear storage; can hold wet or dirty items outside of vehicle interior; keeps gear out of sight Cons : Cost; wind resistance; may not fit under low-clearance spaces <A> I've had a bike rack for my car for many years, and having a portable one I could move between cars was very very useful. <S> You never know when you end up with a rental car for a weekend, or go on a trip with a friend (in their car). <S> FWIW, I had this rack , and after 4 years of regular use it didn't leave any marks on my car. <S> The fact that it folds easily and can be stored in the trunk of your car is just a bonus :) <S> Also, now that I have sold my car, I keep it in the trunk of my GF's car, so if I ever get stranded, she can come pick me up. <A> You can get one of those racks that hangs off the boot of your car, I have a hatchback (Vauxhall/Opel Astra) and it works fine <S> There are two straps that are anchored inside the boot and the straps come out of the top door hinge <S> , no marks/wear there <S> The other two straps clip onto the side of the boot door <S> There are two other straps which go down and clip underneath the car <S> The frame itself is foam padded on the points that contact with the car. <S> One gold piece of advice I'll give here, is if you rest the rack on the ground, make sure you brush the foam bits with your hands. <S> I forgot to do this, there was a stone it picked up from the ground and after a 40 mile journey it dug right into my paintwork on the bumper and made a nasty scratch <S> These styles of racks are cheap, around £40 / $60, and take about 20 minutes to setup/takedown
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: Advanced models can be expensive; basic models interfere with access to trunk or rear cargo area; bikes may sway Trunk Rack
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How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket? With out completely removing the cranks and bottom bracket, how can I tell when it's time to replace my bottom bracket? The current symptom is a slightly 'rough' feeling when I pedal. It's not constant, and it's not the pedals - I've swapped them out recently with nearly new ones. <Q> Pull your cranks laterally. <S> Do theymove? <S> Give your cranks a good spin,preferably without the chain. <S> Hearany unusual grinding noise or littleclicks ? <S> If you answered no to both questions, keep pedalling. <S> You're still fine. <A> I am going to assume we are dealing w/ a JIS style square taper bottom bracket for this issue. <S> At least, I am going to address it as such. <S> If it is a cartridge style BB <S> you really have no choice in repairing the less than perfect feel so either accept the roughness and look at a new one next season or switch her out when you feel. <S> If it is a loose ball and you are partial to it <S> (ex: ti spindle) <S> the roughness is a sign that you should get on servicing it asap. <S> The roughness can come from contamination of the grease and result in the spindle race pitting and the cup races pitting as well. <S> Once these are pitted you will most likely never get it back to that silky smooth feeling you so desire. <S> In reality, chances are it is a cartridge <S> JIS BB. <S> Domsterr is spot on with the 'lateral' play issue. <S> hold the down tube or seat tube and 'feel' for the grinding through the frame. <S> You would be surprised how effective that is. <S> I use it regularly for assessing hub condition. <S> That's about all I've got. <A> If your crank is wobbling or there's a noise in your bottom bracket when you're pedalling, maybe it's time for you to replace your bottom bracket. <A> I have one suggestion to add to this thread... ...the best way to check cartridge bearings is to check them. <S> Remove the cranks. <S> No need to remove bottom brackets for this, but if you have the tools available you might as well. <S> This is a good opportunity to clean the BB face and shell and check for any corrosion. <S> To check the bearings simply spin them with your finger. <S> If they feel buttery smooth, then you have nothing to worry about. <S> If they spin freely, you need to think about replacing them, or stripping and re-greasing (if you are up to it and you have the necessary tools). <S> It is normal for one side to give out before the other, so it will be obvious when this happens. <S> Personally, given the low cost of new brackets, I think it better just to replace. <S> In fact, you can do this as part of your scheduled maintenance depending on your mileage and the quality of parts used. <S> I just did mine (FSA MegaExo) <S> after 3,000 miles (DS was spinning freely, NDS was ok), so <S> I know I am unlikely to get another 3,000 miles before they need doing again. <S> As mentioned above, you can run cartridge bearings into the ground and you won't damage anything else. <S> It's just about riding pleasure and efficiency.
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To add to the recommendation of spinning the cranks I would add the following: take the chain off of the chain rings, when giving it a spin, as the chain will interfere with your ability to assess by ear. It would be nice if the BB was always smooth as butter, but a little rough doesn't mean it's broken. You will very quickly notice if there is any play or roughness.
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Are reflectors mandatory by the UK highway code? I bought a set of mudguards recently, the rear one attaches onto the seat post. I have a red reflector that also attached onto the seatpost, so if I have both the seat has to be too high and only my toes can touch the ground when seated. I've removed the reflector, is this OK or is it required by the highway code? <Q> There is a good "common language" guide to the bike specific regulations in the Highway Code here . <S> The relevant paragraph reads: <S> At night your cycle MUST have white front and red rear lights lit. <S> It MUST also be fitted with a red rear reflector (and amber pedal reflectors, if manufactured after 1/10/85). <S> So, while I am not a barrister, nor a UK citizen, the answer appears to be that you have to have a rear reflector somewhere. <S> However, there may be some wiggle room since the law specifies at night . <S> It seems unlikely that if you only ride during the day that you will run into a problem if you remove it. <S> Most jurisdictions in the US and other countries have similar laws. <A> In theory, yes, in practice, not really. <S> The CTC have a decent summary of the situation . <S> Rear Reflector One is required, coloured red, marked BS6102/2 (or equivalent), positioned centrally or offside, between 350mm and 900mm from the ground, at or near the rear, aligned towards and visible from behind. <S> Note also that the highway code is not the law, so breaking it is not illegal. <S> Although generally speaking if you contravene it you will probably be breaking a law somewhere or other. <A> The main problem with having no rear reflector is that if you are involved in an accident with a car at night and make a claim on the drivers insurance, then the insurers, being insurers, will probably seek to nullify the claim by proving that your bike was not adequately equipped to be on the road at night due to the lack of legally required reflectors. <S> You're also supposed to have amber reflectors on both sides of the pedals too, which doesn't seem feasible on clipless pedals.
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While safety experts generally agree that a rear light is much more effective (and UK law seems to recognize this by requiring not only the light, but that it be lit), you can usually get away with a rear light that is also made out of red or amber reflective material.
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How often should I clean my bike? How often should I clean my bike? I've used it several times over the summer, but only once in muddy conditions, should I clean it after every ride or once per quarter? <Q> There's a saying that a clean bike is a happy bike. <S> You really can't clean a bike too much. <S> Make sure to clean the bike more often in the winter when riding on road salt, which is bad for the drivetrain. <S> For all bikes, I'd definitely clean the drivetrain if it gets muddy. <S> Mud can interfere with shifting and braking. <S> Do not put oil or grease on the rims. <S> The clean-rim-squeal-sound goes away on its own after a bit. <S> In terms of the frame: With a steel frame, you'll need to worry about rust, particularly where you have any scratches in the paint. <S> Patting the bike dry after a ride in the rain should deal with that. <S> (This applies to steel and aluminum, I know very little about carbon or Titanium frames, or about disc brakes.) <A> Depends on what you want from your bike. <S> If it's a knock-about treadly that you use for the short commute to and from work and for getting your shopping, then wash it as infrequently as you care to. <S> The only thing that really needs regular cleaning and lubricating is the chain. <S> If you aren't planning on cleaning the chain too often, then ask your bike shop about which chain lubricant will last the longest. <S> You probably want to lubricate the chain at least once a month. <A> To give some context: I just ride on roads and I cycle for fun and transport. <S> I'm minimizing cleanup-time while trying to maximize ride smoothness and bike(part) lifetime. <S> From that I clean my bike (and by "my bike" I mean "moving parts of my bike" i.e. chain, gears, all the gear-changing stuff, the sides of my rims (where brake-pads hit)) <S> when one of these is true: <S> My chain starts to look dirty. <S> Since the last cleanup I rode 30K or so (this is two one-way commutes for me) in wet conditions (i.e. in the rain, or close enough after rain to have mud/sand sticking to my legs when I get home). <S> My chain starts to make more noise than the regular clicking <S> I get just after I cleaned it. <S> I had trouble changing gears at some point during my last ride. <S> Since 3 and 4 are basically "error conditions" I usually try to clean it after either 1 or 2 becomes true. <S> Again, this is only for the moving parts. <S> I clean the rest of my bike when I'm already going to clean it <S> and I'm really annoyed by the amount of dirt sticking to my bike. <A> In my world how often you clean really depends on how convenient it is for you to clean your bike and how much you enjoy a clean bike. <S> For myself I have a fairly convenient set up <S> so I clean my bike(s), in parts, almost every time I ride. <S> For example: I go on a ride ('cross ride perhaps) <S> and I come back with a moderately dirty frame and drive train. <S> Knowing it is fall and that if I do a top to bottom job it will only be dirty again tomorrow I simply hang the bike in the stand, turn the hose on it (low pressure working top to bottom, front to back) and remove the majority of the mud etc. <S> Grab a rag, wipe down the chain and re-lubricate. <S> Done. <S> If I ride the same bike the next day, after the hosing I might clean the rims and brake pads or fix the bar tape etc. <S> etc. <S> Each day sees something small being tackled resulting in my actual tune ups taking 10-15 minutes tops. <S> For my setup that constitutes 3-5 minutes of my life and typically gets done after every ride which gets some sort of road grime on the bike. <S> I like to operate on the 'clean before anything goes wrong' principle. <S> When you are cleaning your bike you are also inspecting it for wear and tear. <S> But really, how often do you have to? <S> It all depends on your preference in terms of how you like the bike to operate and how often you ride it (them).
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If you're bike is a high performance, lightweight machine and you expect many years of trouble free performance in tough conditions, then wash it as frequently as you can. If you have rim brakes, they may squeak after cleaning the rims. As long as it doesn't interfere with braking power, I don't worry about that.
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Does anyone still use the old Brooks-style saddles? About 30+ years ago I bought my first road bike. It had an old (used) Brooks leather saddle on it, whose design probably dated back to 1900 AD. To anyone who hasn't seen these, they look like a they were inspired by horse saddles, but tinier. The leather is rock hard, but once they get broken in are surprisingly comfortable. Nowadays the saddles you see in shops are all high-tech, lightweight creations. I had to search, but found some ads for Brooks on Amazon. So: does anyone use them? Or are they outdated and anachronistic? <Q> Yes, people still use them and swear by them. <S> I've seen them for sale in most of my local bike shops. <S> The breaking-in thing (that they mold to your backside over time) is the big feature that everybody who uses one seems to love. <S> They're very popular amongst the touring crowd, especially the B-17. <S> Yesterday, I was volunteering at a huge road ride event and even saw some Brooks saddles on fancy new carbon bikes (though I think that was one with titanium rails ). <S> Brooks' Website - where you can find out that the design dates to 1882 and that maybe part of why they seemed to somewhat go away and then resurge was that they were part of Raleigh and are on their own now... <S> Velo Orange's copies of Brooks saddles Cardiff <S> another company making copycat saddles <A> Brooks saddles are on the way back in with the trendy fixie crowd. <S> You can certainly see plenty of them on the streets of Sydney, and two of my friends have them on their bikes. <S> Apparently they are pretty comfortable once broken in, just as you've said in your question. <A> Yes! <S> I use one and would estimate that about 50% of the long distance riders I've met also use Brooks saddles. <S> They're not for everyone, but the custom fit (after the break-in period) can be very comfortable on long rides. <S> They're also slightly wider than most saddles sold in bike shops, which I needed to accomodate my sit bones. <A> That picture appears to be the B17 which is the "light weight" touring type saddle, Brooks also makes even more comfortable springed saddles that are great for city, around town riding when you are not wearing biking shorts. <S> They are very popular in EU, especially on more upright style city bikes. <A> They're not anachronistic at all. <S> That said, there's nothing particularly magical about them. <S> They're definitely stylish and for utility bikes, the wider Brooks models look far better than any other seat on the market. <S> For road bikes, Brooks are just one of several "top-choice" vendors that would definitely also include fizik and Selle Italia. <A> not I.. <S> but that's me. <S> I have heard that they need a break in period of time to conform to the rider's body.
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The range of saddles offered by brooks are good for all types of cycling. I use the Brooks pro, never had a problem with it, and expect it to last some multiple of the ~7 years I've had it. yes, some people use them and love them..
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Mountain bike -- exciting after-market parts, modifications or paint jobs I have a Specialized Stumpjumper Comp FSR from 2009. My previous bike was a mean-looking matte black Cannondale Jekyll 1000 with a Lefty fork. Now I've got this vanilla, grey boring looking bike that I love to ride but is so boring to look at. How can I make this Stumpjumper cooler looking? The only thing I've done thus far is get some cool new grips and that helps a little. Other ideas for parts to replace? Has anyone had experience with paint jobs? Any other ideas? ;) I'm willing to put some money into this. Basically, I'm looking tips based on what other people have done to make their mountain bikes look cooler — more eye-catching. <Q> Let's create something of a (price) ordered list: <S> I would suggest if the bike is a neutral color like yours, you try to find a detail color from, say, a decal, and replicate that in various places over the bike by hunting down the parts that match. <S> This process is an endless rabbit hole, after which you realize you would have been better off building your own . <S> You can even go the best function route, which may end up looking inconsistent to the uninitiated, but you'll know <S> it looks good :) <S> Almost Free Valve caps Clean and Polish! <S> Cheapest Grips, check Brake discs Brake pads (caliper brakes) <S> Colored bolts (but be careful - because they are normally aluminium and significantly weaker) Handlebar end caps Different color chain <S> Handlebars <S> Middling <S> Tyres <S> Saddle with Shiny bits or Brooks, according to preference Cranks and rings, shiny, anodised or matt, machined or forged Frame repaint (strip, sand blast, powdercoat or automotive paint, sealer/clearcoat) <S> Crazy <S> All the parts have to be made of Titanium and/or Carbon Fiber <S> I'm sure there's plenty more that I've just forgotten. <A> I've had a couple of frames stripped and powder coated, but I've not really done anything fancy with them. <S> The cost was around $150 locally for a nice glossy red and a deep black. <S> I assume that if you wanted fades or gradients that the cost could be significantly higher. <S> and they will coat it for you and ship it back in about 2-3 weeks. <A> A cool paint job looks great, but if you ride at night, nobody can see it. <S> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wuertele/12063153/ <S> There's a lot you can do with spoke lights for a truly "illuminating" experience.
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Reflective tape can be an inexpensive way to decorate a bike, and it's pretty cool-looking: It all depends on what kind of look you are hoping to achieve. I've never tried an out of state company, but there are several online like PowderCoat Studio that will have you ship your frame to them
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Suggestions for outdoor commercial (security/parking) stands I'm looking for suggestions for space efficient stands for parking multiple bikes. A sports club (not cycling) for which I sit on the committee is looking to solve a bit of a problem. At the moment many people come to train in the evenings/weekend by bike and end up piling them up in one of the gym rooms. This has been mostly fine because it's dry, relatively secure and they aren't really in the way. The numbers are increasing, though, and ''something has to be done''. So we're on the search for some stands. We have an amount of outside space that can host some racks, but we want to buy something that can maximise the numbers held, while hopefully still allowing random access (i.e. any bike can be taken away at any time by its owner). The current suggestion is http://www.esedirect.co.uk/p-2246-the-s-stand-bike-rack.aspx - we've space for about five of these style (i.e. ten bikes). I feel sure that we must be able to fit more bikes into the space. So without knowing the dimensions within which we must work, I'm looking for a few candidate types of solutions which are particularly space efficient. Edit The main problem I think with these 'S' stands that have been proposed is that, when placed against a wall, I think that the asymmetric nature will mean that, when busy, the slot facing the wall is likely to not be used. I must admit that my initial reaction is that you have to argue as to why to not just get the Sheffield stand. The wall mounted option looks like an interesting idea and that was certainly the kind of response I was hoping to get! <Q> It is hard to beat a “Sheffield” stand, as they make it easy to lock the bike and don’t bend your wheels if the bike is knocked over. <S> Cambridge Cycling Campaign did a good write up on the options . <A> If you need to fit a large number of bikes into a small(ish) space, hanging them on the wall is usually the best option. <S> The simplest and cheapest route is to mount hooks into the studs which will normally be at 16" centers. <S> By offsetting the racks/hooks we have space for 18 bikes in what used to be one oversize parking space. <S> The plan and rack are from CycleSafe , and I really like that "tray" style of rack. <S> I have seen similar rack arrangements at a few local businesses where the racks are mounted to the outside of the building. <S> This style of wall rack is also nice because you can secure your bike with a standard "U" or cable lock. <A> The recently opened Berkeley Bike Station has a few of these , and I've been quite impressed: <S> They're really easy to use, and are the highest bike/sqft solution I've seen. <S> They also have some of the less fancy ones , which are similar to the solution suggested by Gary. <S> Ray: <A> The dutch cycling association has instituded a quality mark for bicycle stands called fietsparkeur (a contraction of the dutch words for bicycle, parking and quality mark) getting the mark means: They don't damage your bike directly <S> They allow bikes to be removed easily <S> They are vandalism proof. <S> They have a site here which has english information at the bottom, and a list of producers here . <S> The model called "tulip" produced by VelopA is my favorite. <S> It is used for the streetside bicycle parking facilities near almost all dutch train stations. <S> The first one linked by Zigdon here is very nice, the best for space efficiency I would say, but not suited for a public space because they can be wrecked relatively easily. <S> If they'll be behind a fence during the night you should be fine. <S> Finally, to boost the credibility of my suggestions, check here for reference material about the type of issues we're dealing with. <A> Just another idea (plus the ones already shown): <S> Some time ago I figured out the best way to store my bikes at home is to put them side by side with the front wheel sligtly turned, about 30 or 45 degrees. <S> So I put a bike against the wall, with front wheel pointing slightly to the wall. <S> The second bike goes the same position, leaning against the first, so that the handlebars don't interfere with each other, and the front wheels form a ////| pattern (last vertical line is the wall). <S> This principle can be expanded to optimize space in any kind of bike rack, but last week I went to a place where the bike rack was only a single horizontal rail placed 1,5 meter above the ground. <S> Then the bikes were hanging in the same position I explained here, the rail stucked behind the fork crown. <S> The rear wheels were still in the ground, with the bikes tilted around 60° in the "wheelie" position. <S> I was afraid to damage the painting, but surprisingly it was extremely simple and "comfortable" to hang the bike and close the lock, while saving a lot of space for the rack owner. <S> A simple plastic cover on the rail would make that the perfect bike rack, in my opinion (except for recumbents or tandems).
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We have a bike cage in our parking garage that we patterned after the plan below. If you want different spacing you can mount a header like a 2x6 or 2x8 to the to the wall and attach the hooks to the header.
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How do you remember which rack you have left your bike in? I have more than once had to spend time looking for my bike at the station, what’s your method to remember the rack you put it in? Do any town have a system of numbering or labelling the bike racks so it is easy to find your bike? <Q> Use your phone to take a photo of your bike location, being sure to get some easy to find landmarks in the photo as well. <S> E.g. if you had just taken the photo above and your bike is the front centre one, those two trees should be fairly easy to find again when you come back. <S> If it still takes a while to find (or the search area is very big) and your phone has GPS, you can probably tag the photo with the location as well. <A> Aside from the fact that your bike is the only one you'll be able to unlock, the best thing for you to do is park in the same location every day. <S> That can be an invitation to have your bike stolen, however. <S> You can either: <S> Make your bike easily distinguishable from the crowd. <S> Putting something brightly-colored on the bars might help, attaching a safety flag to the rear rack would be even better. <S> Either of these calls attention to your bike, again this is something inviting bike theft. <S> You could jot down a note to yourself for later -- "bike 3 arches down from the big ugly tree", for example. <S> What I would do is find three or four medium-traffic parking locations and rotate among them . <S> That way I'd only have a few places to search, but I wouldn't be using the same spot over and over. <A> In these kind of situations I use the tips that a guru taught me when I was learning the ways of triathlon. <S> In the transition area, where you leave your bike to collect at the end of the swim, you are quite often assigned a spot for your number (otherwise everyone clamours for the ends of rows). <S> So it's about landmarks, "3rd row, lake-side, half way down, past the second tree", and memorable things, so <S> the the flag (or strategically placed towel) is a good idea too. <S> Don't make the mistake of using temporary, movable landmarks. <S> That nice Cervelo might well have come out of the water (or work) before you :) <S> The key takeawayss here are to make them instantly and accurately memorable. <S> If you're in the same area day after day you don't want to to get too confused about whether you're remembering yesterday's or today's position, so @neilfein's rotation of possible locations is a good feint. <S> In triathlon you're trying to keep it simple (because your mind is inherently fuzzy when you're out of the water and trying to peel off a wetsuit), and at the end of a long day you probably haven't given much thought to your bike since about 2 minutes after you left it. <S> My bike is in a secure area in an underground car park, so I leave my helmet on the saddle which is generally still there, un-knocked-off, at the end of the day. <A> Buy an electronic key finder. <S> Attach the keyring part to your bike, when you want to find your bike you press the button on the remote and the keyring beeps and flashes. <S> Range is 40 meters which should easily be enough. <A> <A> I painted my mudguards bright red to aid visibility, but it doesn't actually help that much. <S> The thing that worked best for me was attaching a small pink teddy to the back of the pannier rack (like truckers do to their radiators). <S> It's eye-catching even in a crowd. <S> It's less good at Cambridge station, which is an extreme case, but works well in a long row of racks because it sticks out the back where it's visible as you approach the row. <S> I only don't do that any more because I bought a rear light that mounts there. <S> If you're coming back to your bike after dark, you're better off with unusually placed retroreflectives. <S> Most car accessory shops sell rolls of retro-reflective tape in various colours, and you can get sheets of stickers which you can cut to shape. <S> I always put a white triangle on my steerer tube where it's visible from the front, and a red stripe down my rear mudguard. <S> Since you're probably carrying your bike lights anyway, just turn on the front one and play the beam along the row. <S> Your own bike will wink back at you.
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I usually paint the rear mudguard a bright colour and attach something colourfull to my handlebars. And I try to park my bicycle in the same row each day. Decorate your bike so that it stands out a bit.
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