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Stopping interference between LED lights and wireless cycling computer My LED lights seem to be causing my wireless cycling computer to not pickup the signal (suggested by the manufacturer and verified through tests at home). What strategies/options are there for reducing the interference outside of repositioning the computer (since I've tried all available positions)? <Q> Because the items are going to have to remain in close proximity, it's unlikely that there is anything that will completely solve your problem, but there are a couple of things you can try. <S> If the lights are wired, it is possible that the wire is working as an antenna, and you can use a Ferrite Choke or two on the wire. <S> Tape one near where the wire leaves the battery, and another to where the wire lead plugs into the light. <S> The can be found at stores like RadioShack for a few bucks. <S> If the lights are wireless, aluminum and tin foil is an excellent reflector for this kind of Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI). <S> The first step would be to see if foil will help. <S> Try wrapping the outside of the lights with foil and repeating the tests you did before. <S> I doubt you can add foil to the computer because this will interfere with it picking up the wireless signal from the sensors. <S> If that reduces the interference you can tape the foil to the lights, carefully cutting away the foil around mounting brackets and buttons and see if the EMI is still reduced. <S> Good Luck. <A> The problem is the current controller built into the LED bulb has no or ineffective EMC suppression. <S> This is extremely common in cheap equipment from unbrand named suppliers, who save costs by not going though the rigourous CE or FCC testing requirements. <S> They also cut costs by not placing components (usually a small cap is all thats needed), and lay out the board poorly so it radiates noise. <S> I have heard of people successfully soldering a small tantalum cap onto the LED board. <S> Best palce is as close to the control IC as possible, across the power input wires. <S> If that does not work, another across the LED itself would help. <S> (Careful, they are polarised) <S> Alternately wrap it in a conductor (Tin foil is good), and tie it to ground to create a Faraday cage. <S> Problem is with it tied to ground, its hard to ride far, and you need a hole to let the light out, but that lets out the RF noise. <S> A better option is to buy a light that meets CE or FCC EMC standards, but they tend to be more expensive. <A> I too had major interference problems between my 700lumen Smartlight (no, not the Garmin one, just a brand called Smart) and VDO M6 wireless computer with all 3 sensors (speed, cadence, HRM) stopping when light was on. <S> I tried wrapping the light in normal, household aluminium foil <S> and hey, it works! <S> Not too pretty but no need to spend time making a bracket to mount the light away from the computer. <S> By the way, it also started working, without the foil hack, when I held the light more than 12cm from the computer. <A> When wrapping your light with tin foil, remember high power means maximum ventilation is required. <S> They can chuck out some heat. <S> On the computer side, when was the last time you changed the battery in the sender unit attached to the fork? <S> Does the problem only occur when your light is on flash or pulse? <S> If so try switching to a steady light instead. <A> For me, foil allowed the computer to operate only if I covered the entire light, cord, and battery with foil, including the lens. <S> So, I got a new computer that uses signals from GPS satellites rather than pulses from a magnet on the wheel to measure speed and distance. <S> This solved the problem. <S> My light is a Nite Rider MiNewt. <S> It has a cord: it is not the wireless version. <S> My old computer was a Specialized Sport. <S> My new computer is a Garmin Edge 25. <S> I had used the MiNewt with other wireless computers without problems. <A> Another thought is to disassemble the light, and paint the inside of it with electrically-conductive paint. <S> Downsides are that the light is more capable of shorting should anything go wrong with the internal wiring, and you might damage the light by disassembling. <S> Note the paint used MUST be electrically conductive, not just silver-coloured. <S> These paints are expensive, probably more expensive than a new light.
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If the lights can be easily disassembled you can try taking them apart and lining the interior with foil as well; take care not to short out the internal electronics. You could also paint the outside of the light, but it would suffer from wear.
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Upgrade my Globe Vienna for commuting and distance riding, or look for a new bike? I've been cycling for about six months now, and am looking to get into some distance cycling and want to get my speed up on my commute. I currently ride a Globe Vienna and was wondering if it was worth upgrading my current bike or just biting the bullet and buying a new road/racing bike. Any help/advice would be much appreciated! T <Q> You mentioned long distance ridding. <S> Here is what I would be thinking about: <S> Comfort <S> When I think about comfort there are two things that I think about. <S> Most importantly I think about handlebars and more specifically how many places you have to put your hands. <S> Drop bars are nice because you get three positions, but I don't like drops when I am riding socially. <S> Check out <S> the handle bar page to have a look at your options. <S> Also thinking about your saddle will be pretty important. <S> Point: <S> probably it is possible to upgrade your bars and saddle to achieve a more comfortable ride Speed Put on some slick tires <S> Weight of the bike is important (especially in hilly areas) <S> How aerodynamic can you become on the bike? <S> Cargo <S> Will you want to mount saddle bags? <S> How many water bottles can your bike hold? <S> Other <S> When I do longer rides I usually bring along a friend. <S> What will your friends be riding? <S> You don't want to have a bike that is too fast (or too slow). <S> What kind of terrain are you going to be riding over? <S> Do you want to have slick tires (and narrow wheels) or wider tires? <S> Will you be riding in winter? <S> Most road bikes do not have enough room for studded tires. <S> Are you going to leave you bike <S> locked up outside (while you are at work, getting groceries, etc)? <S> You don't want to have to worry too much about your bike. <A> The two upgrades which make the biggest difference are the wheels and the frame itself. <S> (I know, better shifting is fun but it won't change your speed/distance much) <S> You could also look at getting better tires, but since you have a commuting bike they should already be fine. <S> Given the price of a good wheel set you might be better off with a complete bike. <S> Now the type of bike really depends on the road you're cycling on. <S> You mention commuting, if the majority of your time is spent riding in the city you'll enjoy a higher-end commuter more than a race bike. <S> Also, since you started cycling quite recently, you'll probably get faster with time as your "bike muscles" and your cardio get better. <S> I don't know how fit you were to begin with or how frequently you've ridden your bike in the last 6 months, though. <A> I'll be blunt. <S> No matter what you do to the bike you have, which is an excellent hybrid, it will never be a road bike. <S> It will always be a nice hybrid. <S> The #1 issue you need to deal with when road cycling is fit and a flat bar hybrid will rarely give you the proper fit you need to increase your speed and maintain your comfort over the long term. <S> If you are looking for something more durable than a pure road bike <S> then I would recommend perhaps looking at a cyclocross bike which will fit most of your needs. <S> I would only caution against the 'cross bike if high intensity group rides are going to be a part of your future.
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If you want to go faster and you are interested in road cycling, buy a different bike.
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How do you carry a dog on a bike? Over the years I have seen a few people transport a dog on a bike. What options have you seen? Please include a photo in your answer if possible. <Q> I just googled "Bike Dog trailer" and got tonnes of results. <S> I have heard that trailers from "WIKE" are good. <S> Here is a pic of their biggest dog trailer: <S> I have also seen a few DIY dog trailers. <S> I like this quite a bit. <S> The dog is just tied in so they don't jump around <S> but they still get a good view. <S> Found at Bike Trailer Blog <S> I have seen lots of pictures of these. <S> Basically you just need to put some bolts through the flatbed of the trailer. <S> This is a more professional example from Tony's Trailers : <S> I guess in theory you could also put a small dog in your front basket, but I would not do that. <S> If the dog moves around that will make your bike unstable, also the dog may try to jump out causing a crash. <A> The folks on Amazon sure seem to like their other model, but that one doesn't specify if it includes a leash clip. <S> Just remember: safety first. <A> I've been using a K9 Sport Sack for my 25 pound dog. <S> https://www.k9sportsack.com <S> The dog <S> and I ride a couple times a week. <S> It took awhile for my back and shoulders to get used to the weight <S> but it's no problem now. <S> We have a bike trailer for dogs and have used it once. <S> The backpack is much less of a hassle. <S> No need for extra bike attachments. <S> No storage concerns. <S> No difference in bike handling when I use it. <S> Rough surfaces don't jostle the dog around because my legs and back absorb the bumps. <S> My dog actually gets upset if I ride without him. <S> He ended up liking riding more than walks and more than going to the park.
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There is also the option to mount the dog's crate onto the trailer. Get your best friend some Doggles . I've never used one of these, but these Snoozer baskets look good for small dogs:
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If I'm riding on the road, and there is a red light but a walk signal in my direction, should I go? I frequently come to stop lights in which there is an all-way stop and a pedestrian signal. I always stop at such lights, but I'm wondering if I should then bike slowly across after determining that it is safe and I will not be interfering with any pedestrians who are crossing, or if I should wait until the light turns green just as I would were I driving a car. <Q> Only cross if you are walking and pushing your bike. <S> If you are riding, you are a vehicle and generally you are required to obey all traffic control devices in the same way any other vehicle operator is. <S> There are exceptions, like the Idaho Yield laws, but generally you have to behave like a car. <S> The other thing to think about is that the more you behave like a vehicle, the more predictable you are, and the more predictable the behavior of other vehicle operators will be. <A> I'm pretty sure it's illegal. <S> I suppose if you wanted to cross on the crosswalk, you could dismount, and walk your bike across, <S> but I doubt that's worth the effort. <A> I don't pay attention to walk signals, but if I know the way a particular light's cycle works, I will indeed go through when it's red. <S> In California we have a lot of protected left turns, where the folks turning left get a green arrow and the opposing straight-through traffic still has a red light. <S> Protected lefts generally happen with two opposing left turn lanes simultaneously getting the arrow. <S> Often, the turn lanes will empty before the green arrow goes away. <S> If the turn lane across the intersection from you still has an arrow, but the lane itself is devoid of cars, then you can safely cross the intersection. <S> In order to reduce the ire from automobile drivers, I refrain from blatantly crossing red intersections, but instead use the above knowledge to get a head start on cars before the light changes so that I can be through the intersection before they start moving. <A> It is, as usual, advisable to learn your local regulations. <A> You are not walking, you are riding a bicycle, which is considered a vehicle. <S> Act accordingly unless its early Sunday or no one is on the road. <A> I think that technically you're supposed to walk across <S> but I make a decision on how busy the intersection is. <S> If there are plenty of pedestrians, I get off. <S> That's pretty rare where I live in western Massachusetts. <S> Most of the time, I ride through.
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Of course, different areas might have different laws on the matter, but the guideline is "if you're riding your bike, you're a vehicle and should obey all the same rules". In your given scenario, use due caution, motorists noticing a red light on the cross street may not expect someone in the crosswalk in front of them. For example, Washington state law explicitly allows cyclists to ride on sidewalks and in crosswalks, as long as they yield to pedestrians while doing so.
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In shared bicycle/pedestrian facilities next to a road, do I obey the pedestrian or the vehicle traffic control devices? My commute takes me on a bike path that runs parallel to a road (with a sidewalk in between). When crossing other roads, the sidewalk and bike path merge, and there is one curb-cut and cross walk with a pedestrian signal. Unless you actually press the button to cross, there will be a green light on the parallel road but a "don't walk" signal for the crosswalk. Should I go anyhow? Should I come to a full stop before doing so, or simply slow down to pedestrian speed and check carefully for turning cars before doing so? Or should I press the button and wait for the pedestrian light? I'm trying to figure out how "same road, same rules" actually works in practice; the problem is, there are no specific rules for bicycles on bike paths which share crossings with pedestrian crossings, and of course you can't apply the same rules as for cars since cars can't use bike paths. To clarify, since there seems to be some confusion about the setup of the intersection, there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a "Don't Walk" sign for the crosswalk, and there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a "Walk" sign for the crosswalk (possibly based on whether someone has pushed the button, or possibly based on the timing, I'm not sure). That is, there are times when there's a green light on the parallel road, and cars may turn, but pedestrians (and presumably bikes) are encouraged to cross, and some times when there is a green light on the parallel road, cars may turn, but pedestrians are encouraged not to cross. <Q> Honestly, I think that's a crappy design for a bike path, and I would just ride in the road instead. <S> A bike path like that is great for a weekend ride, but for a daily commute, it just wouldn't cut it. <S> If that road isn't safe to ride in, I'd try to find a different route. <S> And if that's not an option, I suppose I would probably ride against the pedestrian light, slowing down to make sure it's safe to do so. <A> Most state laws in the US are based on the Uniform Motor Vehicle code. <S> Usually there will be specific language that states if you are a cyclist on the road, you obey the laws that apply to vehicles, and if you are a cyclist on "pedestrian facilities" eg. <S> sidewalks, sidepaths or multi-use trails, you obey the laws as they apply to pedestrians. <S> There is also usually phrasing that you must obey "traffic control devices". <S> In this case if you are on the path, crossing a roadway and continuing on the path, from a legal standpoint you most likely have to obey the signal. <S> From a practical standpoint, ask yourself "As a pedestrian, what would I do here?", since the pedestrian rules are what most likely apply. <S> Edit after O.P. added the picture: If I am not in the road traveling like a vehicle before the intersection, I would absolutely behave like a pedestrian here - especially if there are similar trees on this side. <S> Any car turning right is going to be barely aware of pedestrians and won't be looking for bikes at all. <S> An on coming car turning left has the same problem, but at least you have a chance to see and avoid them. <S> Their awareness will be even lower if the crosswalk sign indicates "Don't Walk". <S> If you were to ride out at even 10 MPH you will catch most drivers completely by surprise. <S> This is one of the most common types of collisions. <A> Simple: If you're riding in the street, you do what the cars do; but if you're riding where the pedestrians walk, you do what they do. <A> There is a setup like that in downtown Indianapolis, and <S> along at least one part of the Cultural Trail, there are signs making it very clear . <S> (And yes, that is part of the trail under construction below.) <S> I don't know how much those signs cost, but they sure help to clear up confusion. <S> In their absence, I'd behave as a pedestrian, and I'd definitely proceed with caution. <S> Even though there are signs along that trail warning drivers to watch for cyclists, there's no guarantee they either read or acknowledge those signs, much less the accompanying signals. <A> What I see too often are cyclists riding on sidewalks heading against traffic at crossings. <S> It is difficult for drivers travelling the same direction and making left turns to see them, as they are in the driver's far right blindspot. <S> Since you're off the road, it's a good idea to give drivers more opportunity to see you before you enter the crossing. <S> Also, the more direct reason is that if you've been merged with the sidewalk crossing, then the rule to dismount takes precedent (if this rule exists in your jurisdiction). <A> In Vancouver, BC they have several ways of dealing with this. <S> At heavily trafficked intersections they have dual parallel crosswalks: <S> one for bikes and one for peds. <S> Each has its own signal control button to stop traffic and their own crossing signal, although they seemed to operate in concert. <S> They also do not allow motorized traffic to turn right on a red light across a bicycle path, although it is normally allowed. <S> Where bikes and peds share a crosswalk path and bikes are allowed to ride across, there are "elephant feet," large square painted rectangles which form a parallel path adjacent to the crosswalk lines. <S> Otherwise, there are signs telling bicyclists to behave like a pedestrian in crossing the street.
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In the diagram above, the walk/don't walk signs line up with the bike path, so you'd follow them. I would stop and dismount, or at least slow down to walking pace.
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Does it make sense to complain to companies about bad driving? On my commute in this morning I found myself in another situation where I was in conflict with another road user. (Briefly, a truck and I arrived at a roundabout at a roughly similar time, but I was into the junction marginally sooner and, crucially, had priority. He didn't/couldn't stop in time and only my emergency stop prevented a collision.) So, naturally, I shouted at him, pointing out his faults. I know this won't help the situation but adrenaline and the rush of almost being knocked off aren't great ways to start a productive discussion. We had, as they say, a full and frank exchange of views which ended with my whipping out my phone and taking a couple of quick photos of his number plate and the company name from his door. Realistically the police have better things to do with their time for this likely non-offence, but I did find the company's website and have filled in a 'contact us' form. I fully expect to not hear another word about it, I presume my complaint will be filed in the lunatic/whinging file and nothing will come of it. The question here is what should we do in these situations? We could just put up with it, going gently into that good night, putting up with a genuine belief in some other road users that cyclists are not equal peers (cf. discussions about ignoring red lights and cherry picking rules). Or if it's not serious enough to report to the police, am I just being too thin-skinned? <Q> Anecdotal evidence I have heard is that in a lot of cases complaints actually do have an effect, particularly if the company is a large one. <S> All complaints have to be followed up and <S> while you may not hear back from the company, management does speak to the drivers involved. <S> Whether this has a positive effect or just creates resentment with the driver, I don't know. <A> I know someone who's on the receiving end of those bad-driving complaints for a company that has a "Tell us about how I drive phone number here " sticker on their trucks. <S> I know that I have a small sample, but it's probably representative of how it works in most companies. <S> Here's how it goes: <S> You call The person understands your troubles and will make sure the message is delivered <S> The person who received the call says to the driver "Hey, someone complained about your bad driving!" <S> "Oh really? <S> random comment " <S> Everyone laughs it off Moving on <S> It won't be much better with the police. <S> So in the short term I'd say they're is nothing to do. <S> * They're is a lot of work to do, but really it's the only way to reduce the number of incidents like the one you're telling us about. <S> *The mutual part is important here. <S> If there weren't so many cyclists doing not-so-smart (I'm staying polite) moves all the time, drivers would probably be more tolerant. <A> It's easy to become angry and militant when you're cycling. <S> It feels like cars don't respect you, and everybody's out to kill you. <S> Nonetheless, yelling and giving the finger ultimately makes you look like the jerk, even if you are in the right. <S> Be courteous, forgiving, and smile. <S> Drivers probably won't hear you from their cars anyways. <A> No idea if it works <S> but I do remember advice given to salesmen driving sign written vehicles to drive courtesly the point being hammered home by the tale of a sale lost (very high value) when the potential customer realised that the idiot who had cut him up and given him the finger on his way into work was the salesman sitting in front of him he placed the order elsewhere and explained why.
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In the long term it's all about sensibilization and working on developping mutual respect between drivers are cyclists.
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Finding good pants for winter biking Winter is soon upon us here, and I'm gearing up for the season. I currently have a pair of rain over-pants which I use during the other 3 seasons, but honestly I really dislike them. They're baggy, requiring the use of an ankle band, and not entirely warm. They do a decent job of keeping out water, but I don't know how they will perform with snow. Can someone recommend a type of pants which are more form-fitting and will do well in both rain and snow? <Q> It really depends on your budget, but you should check this out (or anything similar), from Gore bike wear : 179.99 <S> USD MSRP <S> http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_TULTRO?landingid=1208436873480O <S> They aren't the tightest pants out there, but "real" tight pants are very rarely (trying not to say never <S> ) waterproof because of the type of fabric used to make them. <S> An alternative idea would be a nylon pant (waterproof, windproof, but absulutely not warm) <S> that's relatively tight with a warm baselayer. <A> I have a pair of Sugoi long tights for commuting in the winter. <S> I add or subtract a base layer depending on conditions. <S> I don't really care if it's Sugoi or not; other companies make bike-tights compatible with base layers. <S> Maybe I choose a different brand next year? <S> Depends on what's on sale... <A> Foxwear makes great rain pants and jackets. <S> They're a little baggy, but they close at the ankle -- <S> no ankle clip required. <S> They're also good layered over tights for winter riding. <S> I have two pair, and will use them until they fall apart (which may take some time). <A> The trick to staying warm for your winter rides is layers. <S> Keep in mind your overpants aren't there to keep you warn, per se, just to keep you dry. <S> You can wear under them pants, long johns, long warm spandex, whatever floats your boat. <S> That's part of why they would be baggy too. <A> REI has a Novara brand rain pant that isn't too expensive. <S> I use mine all year round, rain or snow. <S> I don't wear them when it is warm, as they tend to keep moisture in as well as out, which leads to soaked clothing. <S> However, I believe that is a problem with most rain gear. <S> I got my pants on sale for around $30 a few years ago. <S> When I go to the website now, I see that the men's version is around $100 in the catalog. <S> I'm not sure why the price difference. <S> www.rei.com <A> that are the cat's pajamas (or some such metaphor). <S> Definitely not baggy <S> (when you see them you'll understand -- "I'm going to fit into THOSE???"), and plenty warm down to maybe 5-10F, but they breathe well -- never get clammy. <S> I no longer do winter cycling, but I often use the tights when I run the snow blower. <S> The snow doesn't stick to them <S> and they keep me warm in the wind without overheating. <A> I wear my Craft Storm Tights for my winter commuting and even some recreational longer rides (I get too hot when I wear them for an interval type of workout). <S> http://shop.craftsports.us/sports/bike/mens-pxc-storm-tights.html <S> They have a thermal liner and keep me nice and warm. <S> I also like them for the ease of use <S> , I just slip them over my underwear and off <S> I go. <S> Not skin tight but not loose around the lower legs. <A> I got the MEC Roubaix Tights this year <S> and I have found them surprisingly warm, despite that they are quite thin. <S> I wore them down to -15 Celsius and had no problems with my legs getting cold. <S> Depending on where you live, and what you consider "winter" something like this might be just fine.
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When I used to commute in Boston through the winter, I wore thick long spandex pants under my snow pants, and that, combined with the heat generated by riding, was enough to keep me warm through -5F blizzards :) I have a pair of Polartec tights from Col d'Lizard
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Determining if a road is safe to bike on How do you determine which roads are safe to ride on and which should be avoided? What traffic patterns do you feel comfortable riding in, and which ones set off alarms? What sorts of intersections do you avoid? How about for nighttime riding; are the same roads safe at night, or do you take a different route at night than you would during the day? Are there any statistics on ratio of accidents to total bicycle usage on certain roads to help inform this decision? There are several streets in my area that I will always avoid. There are a few parkways with no shoulders whatsoever, narrow lanes, winding roads, fast moving traffic, and very few stop lights and side streets to calm traffic. There are several that I feel pretty confident on, with reasonably wide bike lanes, low traffic, and frequent intersections that mean that traffic doesn't usually get too fast and drivers are on the lookout for people turning in. I'm just wondering if there are any more objective criteria I can use, or good rules of thumb, for where it's safe to ride. <Q> I consider several factors. <S> Traffic density <S> Traffic speed Road shoulder or not Bike lane or not Route efficiency <S> Road condition Bus and truck traffic density <S> Streetcar routes <S> The main combination that I really work hard to avoid is high density, high speed, and no shoulder or bike lane, with poor road condition thrown in as a bonus. <S> I will ride on high density, low speed roads without a lane/shoulder most any time. <S> For intersections, if possible, I tend to avoid ones that are poorly signaled; but on some routes I just have to be extra careful on those. <S> At night, high speeds and poor road conditions gets extra weight. <A> I try to avoid any road that'll have me cycling on the same lane (i.e. no bike path or shoulder) as cars allowed likely to go more than 50 km/h (30 mph), day or night (if I have a bicycle with proper lights). <S> However, depending on where you cycle this is not always possible. <S> In those places I take my rear-view mirror with me on my bike and stay out of rush-hour traffic. <S> As per Murph's comment, winding narrow country roads are usually pretty safe to ride despite the high speed limit because the traffic density is low and all the corners keep car-speeds down. <S> So I changed "allowed" to "likely". <S> This of course requires some local knowledge. <A> Determining the safety of a roadway as a cyclist is rather simple if you realize that its all about negative space. <S> By that I mean if the roadway is our space, everything not a car, obstacle, or other cyclist is negative space. <S> The first question is is there enough negative space (where you want to be) to accommodate you. <S> ie. <S> a pack of ten cars one meter apart moving at 5kph has a lot more of that navigable negative space then 4 cars with 5 meters apart at 50kph. <S> Next is the condition of the road. <S> Some times this may take a trip or two to discover pot holes, rough shoulders, backwards grain grates etc. <S> are met, it may be worth a try. <S> Of course be reasonable, if something seems like a bad idea it probably is, and even if it sounds good, its probably bad. <S> Most importantly be safe & smart. <S> Its not difficult & will keep you alive. <A> Two words..."common sense!" <S> An experienced cyclist will want as light a traffic pattern as possible during the hours you intend to be on that particular road section. <S> A wide berm or preferably, your own "bike lane. <S> " <S> As few intersections as possible, and those intersections that are there..having a traffic signal device rather than <S> stop/yield signs and turning lanes. <S> Fairly well lit area if night rides are required ( although too many business/advertising signs may distract drivers! ), and the driveways are always dangerous places where vehicles enter/exit. <S> Of course using proper safety equipment on your bike ( rear-view mirror(s), lights and possible horn ) as well as your personal safety equipment ( helmet, proper clothing ) always make the experience less traumatising if you're prepared for the possibilities. <S> The Oregon Bicycling Manual... <S> ( http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/BIKEPED/docs/bike_manual.pdf )...is the best bikeing manual I've come across for the bicyclist to take a look at. <S> Every state should have a bicycle manual as good as this one. <S> It's good to read for motorists too! <S> The state of Oregon seems to be a leader for keeping their bicyclists safe from what I'm seeing!
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If the cyclists do what a vehicle driver expects, you're much safer. But mainly your general assessment of are you comfortable ridding on that with the speed and reaction required for the surface Providing those conditions
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Submitting road data to Google I have really enjoyed Google Maps cycling directions but find it lacking a lot where I live. I really want to update the maps with new/better information but I don't know the what, how, or where. What data can I submit to update Google Maps cycling data? What format does the data need to be in to submit it to Google Maps? Where do I submit this data? (i.e. url) How is the data submitted? <Q> The easiest way to submit data is to right-click on the map and choose "Report a problem" . <S> This pops up a small form with a marker. <S> You drag the marker where the problem is, and you pick a category and type something to explain the problem. <S> In a few days, a human being reads it and (assuming he/ <S> she agrees) fixes it. <S> For instance, Google Maps would send bicycle routes near my house to a road with a killer hill. <S> There's a reasonable alternate route that adds only about a quarter of a mile, but avoids the killer hill for a much more gentle hill. <S> So I reported it. <S> In a few days I got an e-mail that said "Your Google Maps problem report has been reviewed, and you were right! <S> We'll update the map soon and email you when you can see the change." <S> Sometimes you'll also get an e-mail afterwards that says "Google Maps has been updated to correct the problem you reported. <S> You can see the update here, and if you still see a problem, please tell us more about the issue: (link)" <S> And now those same bicycle routes, by default, route along the gentle hill instead of the killer hill. <A> openstreetmap.org is a google map style map built from user supplied data. <A> If you want to submit large amounts of data, you might be able to do it using their Base Map Partner Program . <S> I haven't tried this myself. <S> See my answer to the question "Do I have to simply wait for google maps to add cycling directions to my area? <S> Or can I help?" .
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You can upload GPS tracks and edit the existing map data to add cycle routes or tracks
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Should I buy a PVC or aluminum roller? I'm currently trying to choose between the CycleOps PVC roller and the CycleOps Aluminum roller . How big of a difference is there between them? I don't really care about riding the roller outdoors, so that difference is moot for me. <Q> How big of a difference is there between them? <S> The difference is this big... <S> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobmarley753/249120602/ <S> Seriously though, after some research and asking friends, many who have aluminum rollers prefer them over PVC rollers <S> The unasked question: <S> Which one would you buy? <S> Neither! <S> Some of my friends have rollers that are cylindrical like the two you have linked to. <S> When asked about their rollers, their biggest complaint is how often they end up riding off the side of their rollers. <S> One even has gotten in trouble with his wife after riding off the edge of his rollers leaving burn marks on the floor. <S> oops! <S> With cylindrical rollers, more concentration is needed to stay on, which can be a good thing if that is something you are looking to improve in your form and concentration. <S> If I were to buy another set of rollers, I would most definitely purchase another set of parabolic rollers. <S> I love my parabolic rollers! <S> They were really easy to learn on <S> and I have yet to ride off the edge of them. <S> : ) If you are looking at getting a set of rollers, I would highly suggest adding parabolic rollers to your consideration list. <S> Google search for parabolic rollers to get you rolling ... chuckle <S> My thoughts about having ridden on plastic rollers: Never had my rollers statically shock me. <S> Haven't seen any major wear on the rollers that makes me worried that they won't last for years on end. <S> Love how quite the rollers are especially compared to my CycleOps Fluid 2 Bike Trainer. <S> Never needed to use them outside. <S> Has been a very smooth ride for me and much smoother than my fluid trainer. <S> Resistance? <S> I love that my rollers have a variable resistance module so I can change the resistance depending on what kind of workout I am going for. <A> Aluminum is more durable, but highly used PVC rollers have been seen to hit the decade mark <S> so it's not really a big difference maker. <S> The other difference would be that PVC rollers charge up static electricity and it can be annoying to get zapped every time you ride your rollers. <S> Now it's up to you to see if that's worth an extra 90$. <S> It's most likely possible to ground the rollers to avoid the shocks and save some money. <S> (The main difference is that PVC rollers can't really be used outside, but it doesn't matter here.) <A> In a nutshell, they're far more pleasant to ride on. <S> Try both, and you'll notice the difference right away. <A> A major consideration would be the weight of the rollers themselves.
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Heavier rollers are easier to ride because they have more inertia and are therefore less sensitive to the small changes in wheel speed related that occur over the course of a pedal stroke. In addition to what has already been said, aluminum rollers tend to be smoother, easier rolling, and quieter. Not having to worry as much about riding off the edge is really big for me as it allows me to ride longer, feel more comfortable shifting my hands to shift and readjust, and allows me to watch an occasional movie or two while riding.
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How much do you need to concentrate when using rollers? I'm consider getting bicycle rollers for use over winter, and I expect after the initial newness has worn off it might become boring. Can I realistically watch a DVD while using rollers? Or do they take too much concentration, and I should look at getting something like a fluid trainer instead? <Q> Rollers are awesome! <S> At least I think so. <S> I have used both a trainer and rollers <S> and I much prefer using the rollers. <S> Once you are used to using the rollers you will be more than capable of doing things like watching a movie. <S> One of the best things about rollers is they magnify issues with your cycling form. <S> Once you have trained enough on the rollers your body will figure it out and it will start to be second nature. <S> It's fairly entertaining to do a youtube search for bicycle roller tricks. <S> I don't suggest doing any of those tricks but worth a few minutes to watch and laugh. <S> There are several different kinds of rollers, so I would suggest learning about some of the pros and cons of each discussed a bit in another question = <S> > <S> Should I buy a PVC or aluminum roller? <A> I agree with Mike - the first time I come off the rollers and hit the road I can definitely fell the difference in my form, particularly with my cadence. <S> They're great as an adjunct to regular season cycling, too, since they really force you to concentrate on a smooth pedal form (if you're "pushing" the pedals as opposed to turning them you'll surge back and forth). <S> I'd recommend starting up next to a wall or in a doorframe since it'll take a little while to get used to balancing on them and staying in line on the rollers. <S> Don't give up - we've all fallen off them. <S> And definitely check out the range of rollers available; I have some nice Action Mag aluminum smooth rollers with an adjustable flywheel on them, but you can do what you need to do without a lot of the add-ons (and add them on later, too) <S> As far as getting boring, I usually listen to music, either on an iPad strapped to my arm <S> (so I can flip through my play list) or on the stereo. <S> If you're just starting out <S> I'd suggest avoiding watching TV and concentrate on a spot about two feet in front of your front wheel. <S> Sounds weird, but it helps keep you straight. <A> Getting used to rollers is similar in difficulty to driving a manual transmission car. <S> The first day will be really tricky (especially the first hilarious 20 minutes). <S> Over time you develop motor skills that kick-in and that frees up your concentration so you can do things like sip water or watch TV or juggle. <S> The main point is that the amount of actual concentration that you need will decrease as your motor skills develop. <S> Eventually, you won't need to "think" about it when on the rollers at all. <S> The amount of time this takes seems to vary a lot and depends on how much practice you're willing to put in. <S> The purpose of rollers is different from trainers. <S> On rollers you're developing form. <S> This translates to increased efficiency on the road. <S> The trainer is more about developing strength and power. <A> The question is about focusing on something other than the wheel in front of you, whilst using the rollers. <S> Am I right? <S> In that case, my best tip is for you to do exactly that and NOT look at the bike or the rollers. <S> That will throw you off balance, because your mind sees the ground around you and the rollers, but it's not "passing you by" as when you're out riding for real. <S> The only thing moving are the rollers, and as far as physics is concerned, you're balanced by the fact the bicycle and yourself are riding. <S> Both your body and the bicycle "think" you're out on the road. <S> So to focus on something in front of you like a video etc <S> is exactly what you should be doing . <S> You'll regret getting a stationary trainer. <S> Boring as %^&%^&^%% <A> Since this question was posted, services like Zwift have appeared. <S> They let you partake in "virtual rides" but tend to require a fair amount of extra stuff. <S> There is some suggestion you can get part of the experience using a Heart Rate Monitor that can talk to your PC, so either Bluetooth or ANT+ again. <S> https://zwift.com/
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Soon, you get familiar with it enough that you can use the rollers without needing to occasionally grab something for stabilization as long as you have total concentration. You'll need a bike on rollers or a trainer, some way to read the power (ie some kind of power meter on the bike or integrated into the trainer, a reasonably capable computer, an internet connection where your trainer is, and an ANT+ receiver in your computer.
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What are the features that I should seek in cycling glasses? I am seeking eye protection for cycling. I don't know if I should buy glasses or goggles. <Q> A frame that doesn't obscure your vision at all. <S> Also, glasses that fit quite close to your face are good because they reduce the chance that a bit of mud or an insect is going to get around them and into your eye. <A> Glasses are suitable for most all cycling purposes. <S> Goggles are more specific, like for some mountain biking and perhaps in snow. <S> Even so, I see cyclists in glasses far more often than goggles. <S> In terms of glasses. <S> For the frames: Most manufacturers have road and mountain models at various price points. <S> If googles, ones that fit your face and vented. <S> For the lenses (glasses or goggles), which are key, there are a few things to look for. <S> Polycarbonate lenses. <S> Because they're impact resistant and durable. <S> UV protection. <S> (Non-polarized lenses suck) Interchangeable lenses. <S> For changing lighting conditions. <S> Clear for night, various tints for bright, cloudy, etc. <S> There are also photochromatic lenses that change tint based on brightness. <S> Prescription lenses or prescription inserts if necessary. <S> (And if you don't use contacts) <S> FWIW <S> - Last weekend at a very muddy cyclocross race I watched, no one was in goggles. <A> Do not reinvent the wheel! <S> Most replies just list things -- they don't tell you how you can get them all-in-one. <S> Well, here is a shortcut: do not search for cycling lenses instead ballistic lenses , SWDG or ESS . <S> They are standardized products so you will surely know whether you can use them with prescription lenses, just google their SKU and check the manual -- no pling-pling marketing in-between, just pure data, cool. <S> Do not let its look stray your thinking from bicycles, here , the bottom has a search that covers pretty new development things about the lenses. <S> My favourite products are by ESS and, by the way, they do manufacture more eye-protecting things, not just goggles. <S> What I do like with this kind of products is that they are high-quality products and tend to be cheap bought as surplus, no Lidl-style marketing needed. <S> I can guarantee such eye-protectors work fine during variety of riding from very cold winter riding to sandy allergenic summer riding. <S> Flying stones, mud and snow are none, even among other traffic and even if you are very allergenic or don't like poor quality of air during some seasons.
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Polarized lenses for glare protection. Get a frame that fits your face well. Especially if you're cycling on the road, you want to be able to do a shoulder check without the frame blinkering you at all.
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What is a good way to learn how to ride a bike on rollers? After seeing a few questions about rollers pop-up, such as this one , it has spiked my interest in these things again. So how do you learn how to ride on rollers? How long does it take you to get the hang of it? Is it like learning to use clipless pedals where you are almost guaranteed to fall off a couple of times before you get it nailed? <Q> how do you learn how to ride on rollers? <S> Do it! <S> Do it in a doorway. <S> Practice <S> How long does it take you to get the hang of it? <S> Took me about 30 min. <S> on a set of plastic parabolic rollers before I felt comfortable enough to take the rollers out of the doorway and just be next to a wall. <S> are almost guaranteed to fall off a couple of times before you get it nailed? <S> No... <S> and maybe. <S> I have yet to ride off of or fall off of my parabolic rollers. <S> I had spent a lot of time on a bike before ever getting on the rollers the first time and my balance is fairly good. <S> Not looking down and getting the wheels spinning makes a big difference. <S> The hardest part is getting going. <S> I found it fairly easy to start out by holding on to the doorway and having my bike in a middle gear <S> so I didn't have to shift when starting out. <S> I would then have one hand on the top of my handlebars and start pedaling. <S> Focusing on getting my wheels spinning, I would slowly let go of the doorway but keep my hand there <S> so I could grab the doorway when I wanted. <S> Once I was starting to get comfortable, I slowly let go of the doorway and put both hands on the handlebars. <S> Success!! <S> http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeride/250957762/ <A> Keep looking ahead and find a cadence where you only need slight pressure on the pedals. <S> When you start too hard/easy will probably make you fall off. <S> I found that I got the hang of rollers pretty quickly. <S> One or two rides and they were easy <S> and I didn't need the door frame to get going. <A> Focus your vision about 15-20 feet away. <S> Don't look down at your front tire, or you will wobble more. <S> One other step for beginners... do your first ride on the rollers with flat pedals and tennis shoes, rather than your clip-in pedals. <S> Stop and hold onto the doorway when you get a drink of water. <S> After you move out of the doorway, make sure there are no sharp pointy objects on the floor around you. <A> I bought a set of Cyclops rollers a few years back <S> and it was scary to say the least when I started riding on them. <S> I too was trying the door-frame technique, but I felt it to be dangerous in case <S> I fell and could not grab onto the door frame in time! <S> So I simply watched a few videos on YouTube and learned the best way <S> was to start riding with the rollers next to a wall, with about 20cm gap between the edge of the rollers and the wall. <S> Next I placed the bike onto the rollers but leaned it downwards towards me, so I could saddle my left leg (assuming wall is on your left) over the bike. <S> I then clipped on my left foot first and whilst holding the breaks firmly in place, I sat myself up and clipped on my right foot into the last pedal. <S> At this point I am actually leaning against the wall slightly. <S> With my left hand on the wall, I started to pedal (yes, set the gears to low resistance before starting, so you pedal with high cadence). <S> This is the point of no return. <S> Let go of the wall! <S> And do it sooner rather than later. <S> Quickly place your hands on the levers as you would normally and look over the front wheel. <S> You will naturally balance as you pedal. <S> After a while you'll get used to it and think, why were you so scared trying in the first place! <S> Some guys on YouTube can do amazing things with rollers, riding one foot, standing on seat, etc. <S> I wouldn't dare!
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If I had learned on a pair of cylindrical rollers, I think I would have ridden off or crashed at least a few times before really getting the hang of it. Depends on your comfort level of being on a bicycle, hand eye coordination, and what kind of rollers you are riding on. I found the easiest way was to put the rollers in a door frame. Believe you can do it.
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Charities that accept bike donations I have a few old-but-still-working bikes collecting dust. Instead of trashing them, I'd like to give them to a charity so they can have a new life. I figured we could make a list of charities who accept bike donations. One per post, please specify location and website (if any). <Q> There is a Wiki with an International List of Bike Collectives and Community Orgainizations at BikeCollectives.org. <S> There are many other organizations, like the Salvation Army in the US, that take almost any item and either operate second-hand stores or sell the items to other thrift shops. <S> I prefer to deal with organizations like the Salt Lake City Bike Collective because I know the bike is going to checked well and repaired if needed before being returned to the community. <A> In Boulder, Colorado, Community Cycles accepts donated bicycles and puts them to good use. <S> Their website lists other bike collectives across North America that may make a good starting point for finding a similar organization elsewhere. <A> In Madison, Wisconsin, Red Bikes will take old bikes. <S> Budget Bicycle Center on Regent Street is the dropoff location. <A> In Austin, Texas, Yellow Bike Project (YBP) accepts bikes and parts. <S> The organization is an opened all-volunteered based community. <S> I have volunteered to fix up bikes before and met people who have gotten free bikes from YBP :). <A> In Rochester, MN the Kiwanis club collects and reconditions bikes. <S> Most go to Christmas Anonymous, and a few others go to various worthy causes. <S> (There's often a need for adult bikes for getting back and forth to work.) <S> When I was unemployed a couple of years back <S> I worked with them reconditioning the bikes. <A> In Hebden Bridge, UK you can drop your parts/whole bikes off at Cycle Recycle . <S> It's a part of the Alternative Technology centre on the canalside. <A> Christchurch, New Zealand has two <S> Icecycles <S> aimed at getting Inner City East people on bikes, and helping out those in the health system. <S> Update - now only deals with a very specific geographic zone. <S> RAD bikes aiming more at self-reliance, repair your own bike with guidance and assistance. <S> CBC Christchurch Bicycle Cooperative, including PUFU aka Popup Fixup <A> Bristol, United Kingdon has the Bristol Bike Project which does repairs, fixups, and sales of used bikes. <S> They also have specific fixup nights for different groups. <A> Goodwill takes bicycles in the US. <S> They're all around the country. <S> Note that the Goodwill shops are independently operated, so the quality and amount of community impact can be different in various parts of the country.
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Some very grungy bikes are taken in and lovingly restored, and the really lost causes are recycled (after stipping off any usable parts).
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Do I have to simply wait for google maps to add cycling directions to my area? Or can I help? Related to this question about submitting road data to google maps . I'm curious to know if there is any way to get Google started on cycling data in my city. There are a lot of cyclists in my city, but as it is located outside of the US, it will probably take some time before cycling directions show up on Google Maps. It does seem to be possible to use the "report a problem" feature of maps to add new route data. But what can I do if there is no cycling data to begin with? <Q> Have a look at http://www.opencyclemap.org/ <S> it uses the http://www.openstreetmap.org/ data, so you can help them by mapping your local cycle ways. <A> While there is community bureaucracy to learn, you can now indeed participate directly. <A> The "report a problem" feature can be used to suggest minor corrections. <S> Once I tried getting bike directions and they gave me a very indirect route. <S> I reported the problem and they fixed it within a few days. <S> For larger amounts of data, you may have some luck with Google's Base Map Partner Program . <S> It can be used to send them data in standardized formats such as KML or CSV. <S> They claim to be currently accepting "bicycle and pedestrian paths" , among other things. <S> I haven't tried it myself. <S> If I ever try it, I will report on the results here. <A> If you are in the UK, use CycleStreets . <S> It's a free journey-planning website designed specifically for cycling, so it can route you across off-road cycle tracks and bridges, and it gives you a choice of faster routes for more confident cyclists, and quieter routes if you want to avoid traffic. <S> As well as the main and a mobile website, they have free apps for iPhone and Android. <S> They use OpenStreetMap data (as other people have mentioned) as the source for the routing, so they have the same property that you can fix dodgy routes yourself, and add new links straight away. <S> In my area, a new foot and cycle bridge was built more than five years ago. <S> It's still not visible on Google Maps, so not available for their walking directions, but it was added to OpenStreetMap the day it was opened. <S> Sorry <S> if you're not in the UK, as it's currently UK only: as a not-for-profit they can't yet afford the server capacity to route in other countries too.
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You can now participate in updating Google Maps to the point of adding streets and updating information, using Google Map Maker .
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Is a leather saddle appropriate for all-weather riding? In our climate, it rains pretty steadily for 3 seasons. Would a leather saddle (like a Brooks) be appropriate for my bike, or should I look for a different material? <Q> Treat the topside with Proofide every 6-12 months and keep the underside dry (fenders, wedge bag, etc). <S> Store the bike in a dry place between rides so that the leather can dry out naturally. <S> A saddle cover would probably help but I've never used one. <A> I have a Brooks, properly treated with Proofide, and I use full fenders, but major rides while raining make the saddle so soft that it bends all the way down. <S> That is a problem that can be partially avoided with rain covers, but you cannot forget yours never! <S> Also, if the saddle keeps wet when you arrive, you can pull it to original shape and wait for it to dry again. <S> It becomes even more comfortable after that. <S> The only problem is the case where you need to keep riding (for example, on a holiday tour) and the saddle is STILL wet from yesterday. <S> I don't know what to do then... <S> Amazingly, though, even all the way down it is still comfortable and pretty rideable. <S> Once, a dutch guy was crossing my town on a long tour, with his brooks fully stretched down, and he only complained from sore hands, not from sore bum. <S> It was incredible! <S> So, I would say: "Yes, go for it, but you have been warned!" ;o) <A> I've been riding an old Ideale saddle for a while now in all weather in New england with a year round commute for several years with no problems. <S> The secret is as others have said- FENDERS and treatment. <S> I treated the saddle with proofide for break in, and once the saddle had more or less molded to me, I treated the whole saddle top and bottom with sno-seal, which is a wax based waterproofer for leather used in winter conditions. <S> Its semi-solid so apply with a hairdryer to heat the leater and let it melt and soak in. <S> I reapply the sno-seal as needed (when water gets absorbed) or sometime in the winter, and the leather practically beads water off now. <S> Still lets it be soft enough to continue to adjust to my bum as well. <S> If it works on a 50+ year old piece of leather its got to work on a new one! <A> In your case I would say that you can use a Brooks-style leather saddle with two recommendations: Fenders - having fenders on your bike will keep much of the water and gunk off the underside of your seat. <S> Find a waterproof seat cover. <S> Velox used to make a great one, which you can still find sometimes online. <S> Rivendell sells one that looks very similar <S> but I have not used it. <S> If you have used a leather saddle before and want to make it work in your climate, I would give it a try with those two changes. <S> If you are just considering switching, I would probably stick to a modern style saddle like the Specialized Body Geometry series. <A> I ride my B-17 in the rain, on the trail, through the mud, rivers, and streams. <S> I don't apply Proofide and it stays in great shape. <S> It was worn in about a 2 years ago <S> and I tightened the spanner bolt about 1 full turn <S> and it hasn't moved since. <S> I even branded the leather with my initials and it hasn't changed the way it feels on my bum. <S> I cant imagine a better saddle to ride. <S> With not having any trouble out of mine in all weather/all mountain riding, I say go for it, just keep an eye on it to make sure its not doing something crazy. <A> I'm a recent Brooks convert and have a B17 on my road bike. <S> A great hack for riding in the rain is to use a plastic carrier bag. <S> Simply put it over the saddle and wind each handle loop around your seatpost in opposite directions and tie the ends together. <S> This protects the top of your saddle from rain and the bottom of it from road spray. <A> i have been using proofide on my champion flyer for about four years now. <S> it works great. <S> it absorbs better in warm weather, not really in cold winter months. <S> i would not use any thing else, period! <A> Not everyone thinks that a leather saddle, i.e. 'Brooks', is necessarily suited to year round riding. <S> Hence there is an aftermarket saddle cover specifically designed for 'Brooks' saddles: <S> https://www.randijofab.com/products-page/bicycle-accessories/saddle-cover <S> If you are concerned about your 'Brooks' seat holding up over winter then you might want to get one. <S> I got a cover for my girlfriend, its well constructed and seems like it should hold up very well. <A> I've ridden mine in the rain (and after being parked in the rain), and everything has worked out. <S> I treat with proofide regularly, and the water beads up and slides off, even after 8 hours in light rain. <S> I recently bought a Team Pro, and they seem to come with rain covers now. <S> I still suggest proofide after each ride for a week after getting a new saddle, and then at least monthly. <S> The stuff is cheap: just use it.
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So if you get a new Brooks and have fenders, your saddle won't even be exposed to water while riding in the rain. I've used a Brooks saddle in a similar climate (Vancouver, BC) without any major issues.
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How can I tell if a helmet will be comfortable before buying? Barring taking a helmet on a 50-mile ride before buying it: Some kinds of chin straps, for example, won't stay tight, and some kinds of cages aren't comfortable no matter how I adjust them. What should I look for? This isn't a product recommendation question (although that would be nice). I'm interested in knowing what features to look for. Alternately, is there anything I can do to an existing helmet to make it more comfortable on longer rides? (If it'll help, I ride for commuting, running errands, and touring; aero or ultra-light features are appreciated but aren't a priority, but ventilation is important.) <Q> Put one on your head, adjust it to fit, and then try to slide it off your head in all directions. <S> As far as long-ride wear-ability is concerned, when you try on a helmet you need to be very aware of places <S> the hard foam contacts your head. <S> You also need to be aware of the weight of the helmet and ventilation when you start thinking about long rides. <S> In most cases, for rides longer than about 2 hours, a more expensive (read: <S> lighter and more ventilated) helmet will be more comfortable <S> IF and only if it fits ok on your head. <A> For stuff like that, I just tend to find a bike shop I trust, and listen to what they have to say about different helmets. <S> They get a lot of feedback about the equipment they sell, so if a particular helmet doesn't stay adjusted, they'd know. <S> Of course, it's important you do trust them, both to actually collect the feedback and not ignore it, and also to not just try to sell you the most expensive item they have. <S> But building a good relationship with an awesome bike shop is something I think every serious cyclist should do anyway, so this would just be the payoff :) <A> Past performance is the best indicator, if you have a helmet that you like. <S> Most helmet companies vary the shape and suspension very little between models. <S> For instance, the company may have a few low end models that use only adhesive or velcro pads and straps, then a set of mid to upper end models with more of a suspended 'cage' harness and straps. <S> The harness may adjust with sliders or with a dial, but will have a fit fairly similar between models. <S> I've never spent more than $60 on a helmet, so I can't speak about high-end models, but I know from past experience that one particular company makes a helmet/harness system that fits my head substantially better than the two others that I have tried.
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If you feel any pressure points or hot spots, you then need to determine if that will be alleviated by the little bits of foam included with most helmets, or if you need a different size or model of helmet.
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Do Pros use compact cranksets? Do pro riders use compact cranksets for hilly races? I'm trying to determine if switching to a compact double will mean I don't have the top end speed to be competitive in higher levels of racing (I'm not a pro racer) and unfortunatly I haven't been able to find information on the setup of top racers. <Q> While pro riders often change gearing or whole bikes depending on the nature of the race or the stage, you do sometimes see compact cranksets, particularly among domestiques in mountain stages or races. <S> A big-name example is Tyler Hamilton in the 2003 Tour De France. <S> After crashing and breaking his collarbone before the huge mountain stages he was unable to climb out of the saddle. <S> FSA who makes compact cranksets and was a team sponsor set up his bike with a 52/36 crank; allowing him to climb seated. <S> FSA did a couple of releases and maybe ads about it - and I started to see a lot more compact doubles in local rides. <S> Just note - a lot of times you can accomplish the same goal (bigger and smaller gearing) by switching the typical 12-23 racing cassette for one that is 11-25 or 11-27 at a lower cost. <S> You can play around with Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator to help you make a decision. <A> It is important to remember that the pros are not like us. <S> Their power to weight ratios are extremely high--much higher than even you see at even the elite amateur level. <S> So, they don't need gearing as easy as mere mortals most of the time. <S> I use a 50x34 with an 11-27 in the back. <S> I spin out the 50x11 only on reasonably fast downhills and flat sprints that have a very strong tailwind. <S> I use the 34x27 more often than I would like to admit if I am on a sustained climb that is steeper than 7%, and I don't want to hammer it. <S> So for me, compact makes sense. <S> But my threshold power to weight ratio is only 4.15. <S> Pros are more like 6 or 7. <S> If I had that kind of power, I would be rolling the 39x23 up long climbs at the same relative effort that I now do in the 34x27. <A> In the 2010 Giro, on the Plan de Corones, Vinokourov rode an 11-32 cassette to 8th place (with compact (34) up front). <S> Gadret rode the same setup to place 3rd on the stage. <S> http://www.theroaddiaries.com/?p=2726 <S> Compacts are definitely used by PROs, but only on really steep stages. <S> The opposite end of the spectrum, PROs will often ride 53-42s (or some variation, sometimes 44, sometimes 40) for the classics. <A> Agreed. <S> Most non-elite amateurs cannot sustain rpms to use a 53x11 or even the 12 cog in a competitive ride/race. <S> A 50x34 (or 36) w/terrain-suitable cog range makes better sense for more road riders than what is typically used. <S> Many pro group training rides cruise 4-5 hour rides on their 53x17's at > 90 rpm. <S> They don't live on those super-human gears the mags and "experts" tout. <S> Great advice in this forum with excellent real life examples. <S> We used to have a restricted-gear early Spring race series (February to end of March) <S> w/little ring and 12 or 13 cog to encourage using a tolerable gear and developing cardiovascular fitness prior to the April-October road season.
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And, the top sprinters and their leadout trains are ungodly fast, and they actually can use a 53x11 to good effect. As already mentioned, pros will use compact cranks on serious climbing courses. Contador used a compact and a large, I think 30-something rear cog, on l'Angliru in the 2009 Vuelta a Espana.
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Cycling uphill on a road - sitting or standing on pedals? When cycling uphill on a road, what are the pros and cons of cycling while standing up on pedal versus sitting on saddle? <Q> You're most efficient sitting with a cadence between 80 - 100 (faster if you can do it) <S> so it's recommended that you stay seated as much as possible. <S> For mountain biking staying seated increases the weight on your rear tire and reduces the chances of it slipping as long as you can keep a smooth spin stroke and not 'mash' the pedals on the down stroke. <S> Standing is harder on your body but in long climbs it's great to switch it up so that you move some of the force around your muscles and give them a break. <S> Standing is also great to get you up that 'really steep' part of a climb or to sprint over the top and lose your friends (or win a race). <S> As stated above stay seated with a high cadence for as long as possible. <S> Switch up to standing as needed to give yourself a break or an extra boost of power. <A> curtismchale's answer is spot-on -- <S> I'm only answering to quote from my favourite cycling article " <S> On the Technique of Climbing" by Luis Bernhardt: <S> When you are sitting in the saddle, you are basically on a Universal Gym. <S> The way you fit the bike prescribes how efficient you are. <S> Seated climbing is the most efficient way to go: just pick a low enough gear and spin it out. <S> Standing requires proper technique and can never be as efficient since your muscles have to support your entire body weight. <S> But standing does change the muscles in play and can be a nice break from that uncomfortable saddle. <S> It also might be your only option if you don't have low enough gearing to spin up a steep hill. <A> Effectively what you are doing when you stand on the pedals and rock the bike from side to side is lowering the crank length and reducing the gear ratio. <S> The only situations that really warrant getting out of the saddle is to either give your muscles a chance to rest by using a slightly different set or to accelerate very quickly, such as coming out of a corner in a race. <A> I don't agree that seated pedaling is better since standing exerts a higher weight (effectively all your body weight) on the pedal. <S> The link below explains it better: <S> https://www.bikejames.com/strength/why-this-video-shows-that-standing-pedaling-really-is-better-than-seated-pedaling/ <S> I agree that your cadence is lower but if you have more torque (due to larger weight on the pedal) you can shift to a higher gear. <S> I also agree that your balance is in jeopardy (I fell once while biking standing) <S> so I suppose don't stand up unless you have good balance <S> and you can spare some energy to balance yourself. <S> Personally I bike standing only on a tricycle since it needs no energy to balance it <S> but that's another story.
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You are also using a lot of energy to hold the bike stable while you change from side to side & as well as wasting energy through the extra flexing of the frame, cranks & pedals.
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How should a bicycle helmet fit? I see enough folks wearing helmets in such a manner that they might as well not be. What is the proper way to fit & wear a bicycle helmet? <Q> This image has kicked around the net for a while - IDK what the original source was: <S> Otherwise, I second the guidance and link provided by @fady. <A> Snug! <S> It wont work if the helmet is not securely strapped to your head. <S> Here is a good article/post about wearing helmets. <S> You want the helmet to be comfortably touching the head all the way around, level and stable enough to resist even violent shakes or hard blows and stay in place. <S> It should be as low on the head as possible to maximize side coverage, and held level on the head with the strap comfortably snug. <S> http://www.bhsi.org/fit.htm <A> My summary of helmets.org 's fitting tips: Size the shell to your head by using/removing the (comfort) pads. <S> Different helmets are made in different sizes. <S> Place your helmet level on your head. <S> Typically the front rim of your helmet sits two fingers' width above your eyebrows. <S> Raise the Y connection of the side <S> straps up to <S> just below your ears Tighten the chin strap until you know the helmet can not move or rotate without your head coming along for the ride (but make sure you can still speak, drink from your water bottle, and so on) <A> Coincidentally I brought my kids to a local bike safety event this weekend. <S> The rules they prescribed were: (1) If you look up you should be able to see the front of your helmet, (2) <S> The straps should form a "V" around your ears, and (3) When you open your mouth you should feel the helmet push down on the top of your head. <A> Then adjust the straps binding just below the ears and then adjust the length of the strap under your chin so that you are able to move your head comfortably without tightening. <S> is important that your front is not see, even when trying to move the helmet forward and back (Gary's picture). <S> -- google translated
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First, buy a helmet of a size that fits your head (you should not be able to put a finger between your head and helmet).
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Fixed-gear vs single-speed for clipless pedals I currently ride a single-speed bike with a flip-flop hub, both for my daily commute and for pleasure/exercise a couple nights a week. I've decided to pick up my first set of clipless pedals and shoes. I've never used toe-clips of any kind or ridden a fixed-gear so I'm curious if I should consider switching to a fixed gear setup. My commute runs through the city and hits several intersections where I'm stopped by red lights. I know with a fixed-gear I could learn to track stand at intersections, but I'm unsure whether that's easier than clipping-out/in at red lights. Conversely, the same commute involves a large hill that I can't pedal fast enough to keep up with, and I don't know how difficult it would be to control my speed with a fixed-gear. I'm not sure if there is a non-subjective answer to this, but I'm basically wondering if there is a case for or against fixed-gear instead of single speed with clipless pedals. <Q> Track standing at intersections is more about showing off than about being quick off the stop line. <S> Other than that, riding fixed vs. SS is a matter of taste. <S> Do you like to coast down hills? <A> I've ridden fixed with clipless pedals for years and while I have been trying to learn how to track stand <S> mostly I clip out if I reach the red and need to stop. <S> The worst that will happen is that you need to spin your wheel a fraction of a rotation to place your lead foot at the right point when you push off again. <S> If you're at the front of a queue of cars, you probably don't want to be wobbling and twitching while showing off. <S> With a bit of practice you can clip in and out in barely more time than a normal shoe. <S> The key to a fixed (and with clipless pedals) is that it promotes a need to predict what's about to happen. <S> I definitely approach junctions more slowly - trying to keep moving as the lights change, to avoid being stationary. <A> Going down a hill on a fixie sounds like insanity to me. <S> Are you sure about that? <S> Controlling your speed will waste a lot of energy. <S> (keeping the speed of your pedals low enough to be able to keep up). <S> I'm with Nick concerning track standing.
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By the time you can track stand consistently (btw, you can learn to do this on a freewheel bike, too), you will have mastered clipless pedals and you'll be able to clip and unclip very quickly.
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Is it possible to fit a chain guard to a bike with derailleur gears? I've been slowly going through the process of converting my old hardtail mountain bike into a commuting bike. One of the things that I'd like to do is to fit a chain guard so that I can ride the bike while wearing long trousers and not have to worry about chewing up the trouser cuffs. A complication is that the bike (like most mountain bikes) is fitted with both front and rear derailleur gears. I'm not keen to replace these with an internally geared hub system as I have been trying to keep the changes relatively modest in their cost. Are there chain guards that you can add to bikes with derailleur gears? <Q> I don't have one, but you can google SKS Chainboard and find several reviews. <A> In general it can be done. <S> My Unibike Voyager has both a chain guard and a front derailleur. <S> I see two possible difficulties: You might have trouble finding a chain guard that fits your particular geometry (size of sprockets, model of the derailleur etc.) <S> and you might have even more trouble attaching the chain guard to your frame, as it might need custom attachment points <S> (for example my chain guard is screwed to the bottom of the bottom bracket). <A> The combination of a "chainring protector" and a chain tube will do 80% of what you need at relatively low cost, or you can fold one up out of metal or plastic. <S> A friend of mine obsessed about this for a while and went through several iterators of folded plastic guards, but none really worked for long. <S> Eventually she bought one of the plastic chainring protectors you see on city bikes, just a ring of plastic that sits outboard of the chainring to keep your clothing off it, and a length of polypipe over the top section of chain, held in place by a clamp on the pipe and a bit of string tied to the bike frame. <S> It looked very DIY but had been on her bike and working for about 6 months of touring by the time I saw it. <S> You could add another length of polypipe on the bottom to help keep muck off the chain if you wanted to. <A> Great idea to add chain guard to 21 speed bike. <S> Easy, if you are handy with cutting and grinding. <S> Just remove the 'back side' of the chain guard that is closest to the frame. <S> Your pants will thank you, and your friends will say, OH, no more funny looking pant leg clamps!
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SKS Germany - a company that make great bike products, including the fenders that I put on two of my bikes, make a product called the Chainboard - a chain guard designed to accommodate front derailleurs. You can DIY a solution if you need to.
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Why is my chain so noisy after cleaning and lubricating? I have recently gotten into commuting to work with a road bike. Once a month or so I will degrease, clean, and lubricate the chain. I change through all the gears to distribute the lubricant and wipe any excess from the chain when I am done. The problem is that for the first 2 or 3 hours of riding after cleaning the chain, my bike is constantly making clicking+creaking noises. They sound similar to what one would hear if the bike was having trouble changing gears and seem to be coming from the area of the rear derailleur. I can "feel" the noise in pedals also. It seems to be most noticeable in certain gears on the rear derailleur (3, 5, and 6) but totally absent in others (such as 4). After a couple hours of riding the noise goes away and the bike feels great. What is going on here? <Q> Likely some coarse particles get in between the chain elements and also between the parts of the derailleur and the star wheels. <A> How do you lubricate the chain? <S> The proper way (in my view) is to drip a drop of lubricant on each chain-link, and then cycle through all the gears. <S> How aggressively do you degrease and clean? <S> Removing gunk, sand, dust, etc. <S> Is necessary, but if you clean it really really thoroughly you might need to apply extra lubricant (and you could be overcleaning). <A> After lubrication, silence is king.
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After you cycle for a while those particles either fall out or get crushed into finer particles and thus the noise goes away. For cleaning the chain and derailleur, I use an old tooth brush. It sounds as if the lubricant is not yet properly distributed when you start cycling.
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What is a good sandal type of cycling shoe for summer riding? I am looking forward to the southern summer and was wondering if anyone could recommend a good sandal style cycling shoe (I have SPD pedals)? <Q> I bought a pair of Northwave Shark shoes this year which are SPD compatible and used them in the short British summer. <S> They have open vents on each side <S> so are kind of sandal like. <S> Weird thing is that the site www.northwave.com , only shows these in the PDF catalogue and not in the Product listing. <S> I had been looking for some time to get this style of shoe <S> so grabbed them when I could. <A> Unfortunately everything I've seen personally looks relatively dorky style-wise, but I'm sure someone offers a SPD compatible sandal that also looks cool. <S> Then again, some cyclists think their glove/short/jersey tan looks cool so YMMV... <S> but I guess it would still look less dorky than wearing casual clothes and cycling shoes! <S> Shimano sandal Keen Bike Nashbar <A> Here you go Simon: <S> http://www.northwave.com/eu/shoes_det.php?itemid=464&catid=4&area=4 <S> They look great!
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There are several companies that make sandals which are SPD compatible, even Shimano!
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Oiling bike frame to keep it cleaner? A friend recommended that I take an oily cloth (with regular motor oil or such) and wipe down the entire surface of my mountain bike frame. He claims that it's easier to hose off after, and it actually keeps cleaner. It seems counter-intuitive to me, as I think the dirt would just stick to the oil. What do you think? Do you do this, and does it work for you? I should add that this is for a wet, muddy climate; the argument being that oil repels water... <Q> I'd think that oil would repel water (make washing harder) and attract dirt. <S> Maybe since we're in such a wet climate ( <S> Andrew and I live near each other) <S> it's decent advice to keep the rain/wet trails/dirt of your bike <S> but I still think that your bike would gather dirt even in the West Coast rain. <S> Especially in areas that are hard to get at like around the seat stays and seat tube. <S> We oil our chains and they get filthy, even on the road. <S> I'm not sure why it would be any different with the frame. <S> I can't see any scenario where that is good advice. <S> I agree with the comment that waxing would be a better option. <A> Pam cooking spray. <S> Spray the frame and the mud falls away. <S> I'm sure the same can be said of waxes etc... <S> anything that gives your bike a nice shiny coating. <S> Anyways, people have been using Pam for years. <A> Bad idea. <S> As Curtis said, dirt will stick to it like crazy. <S> The only dirt that won't come off with a hose is dirt that has been on there for days/weeks and has baked itself on. <S> So just clean your ride regularly <S> and it shouldn't be a problem. <S> The paint finish on bikes is so smooth that dirt shouldn't really be able to 'grab' onto it anyway. <S> Maybe if you are riding an old bike covered in rust it might be an idea <S> but otherwise I'd just leave it as is. <A> I think you've been given bad advice. <S> I don't think oil will do any harm to the bike, but I don't think it will do much good either. <S> The problem I see here is "hosing it off afterwards": Using high-pressure water on a bike, particularly the drivetrain, is a bad move. <S> It'll throw the deraileurs out of adjustment, and the water will force its way into any cracks or ships in the paint, possibly into the cable housings, and you'll end up with water inside the frame and possibly the bearings . <S> (This is a particular problem with steel frames, where rust can accumulate inside and you may not know it for years.) <S> Some people use citrus degreaser spray to clean the frame. <S> (My shop uses lemon pledge to keep all their bikes clean.) <A> This advice may be better applied to steel frame bikes where rust and corrosion are a problem. <S> The main benefit is that it prevents nasty stuff from getting extremely stuck on (tar, bugs, etc)--but <S> it won't magically keep your bike spotless. <S> If you have a hard time cleaning the nasty stuff off or are starting to see corrosion issues then it might be worth it, otherwise it's probably not going to have any real benefit. <A> When I was mountain biking here in Missouri, mud and other gruck were pretty much standard. <S> I must say I never really obsessed about cleaning the bike... <S> When I got home I'd simply leave it on the car rack and hose it down with a standard garden hose to get the big stuff off. <S> It was an aluminum-framed model with stainless cables and such.. Not much to worry about. <S> Take it off the rack when done, bounce it on the pavement a couple of times and leave it sitting in the Sun to dry. <S> Re-lube the chain and DRs.... <S> Funny story.... <S> I came out of one of the local trailheads one spring afternoon literally covered with mud. <S> Bike, me, everything. <S> A young couple were just getting their bikes ready to go. <S> The girl looks at me and says.. <S> "Is <S> it muddy?"
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Leaving a (very) thin oil layer will keep water from reaching any pits or cracks and turning to rust. A bucket of soapy water and a sponge or a cloth will do the job just fine.
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Is it possible to put a chain on without removing the rear wheel? I have a bike with a single chainring up front and an internal hub and a coaster brake in the rear. (For those unfamiliar with this setup, it's essentially like having a single-speed bike in that the chain is exactly as long as need be, and tension on the chain is adjusted by moving the rear wheel in the rear dropouts before tightening it.) My preferred procedure for cleaning the drivetrain is to completely remove the chain. The obvious way to do this would be to loosen the rear wheel in the rear fork and take the chain off. (Remember, no rear deraileur and no chain tensioner.) However, rear wheel placement with an internal hub can be tricky. If I were to install a chain with a master link , would I be able to remove the chain without loosening the rear wheel, or would the tension on the chain make this operation difficult? <Q> It depends on the style of master link and how much chain tension is in your setup. <S> An SRAM power link needs about 1-2mm of chain slack to unhook the link. <S> If you can find this amount of slack, it should work with most types of master link. <S> The tighter your chain, the harder this is going to be to snap back together. <S> Depends if you would prefer fiddling with a master link on a tight chain versus the re-aligning the rear hub. <A> A full chain guard may be a better solution to the problem. <S> As there no movement in the chain when changing gears, a chain guard can fit tightly and completely cover the chain. <S> Then assuming you are not riding in deep water the need to clean the chain will be greatly reduced. <S> I have gone well over a year with daily use (on roads) on a bike with a full chain guard without having to clean the chain. <S> The chain only need oiling every few months as it is no protected by the chain guard. <A> Agree with the answer above but one note on other ways. <S> I've also been able to remove a chain with a standard chain breaker on BMX bikes, which essentially duplicate the setup you speak of. <S> It's harder to put them back on than a bike with a rear derailleur (since you can get chain slack easy by compressing the bottom pulley) but entirely possible. <S> Just takes a bit of practice. <A> Sometimes it is possible to close the master link with the chain disengaged from the chainring, so that it is loose. <S> Then, you engage from the chainring bottom and pedal backwards, so that the chain "snaps" in place.
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If your chain doesn't have 2mm of play, but isn't too tight, a master link that snaps off the side (like the first one pictured in the terminology index) should work.
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Finding a rattle in my bike I recently installed a rear luggage rack and washed my bike, and now I get a buzzing rattle when I ride over bumps in the road, independent of whether I happen to be pedaling at the time. It sounds like it's coming from somewhere below me as I'm riding, which probably indicates somewhere between the bottom bracket and the rear hub, or as high as the saddle. With my bike up on a repair stand I tapped the various components of the rack and tightened the screws but I didn't find anything obviously loose or that rattled as I tapped it. How can I narrow down the source of the rattle? <Q> Since you don't hear the noise when the bike is up on the stand, the problem is probably linked to the load of your weight on the bike (trying to formulate this in a way that doesn't sound like I'm saying you're a problem <S> or you're overweight <S> but it's impossible! <S> haha). <S> Sit on the bike, swing on the saddle to simulate the effect of a bump and have someone check if there's anything swinging/bending and touching a part of your wheel. <S> If you're really desperate and have some time on your hands, remove the luggage rack and go see if you hear that noise. <S> Then re-install it carefully. <S> Actually you might save some time doing this right off the bat. <A> You can pick the bike up and bounce it from an inch or two. <S> Check all the joints of the rack. <S> Remember to check the lock-rings on the valve stem of your tube. <S> If those are loose they will rattle. <A> Try the following: <S> Then, make the bike jump like a pogo stick (specially good for noises in the front). <S> For any of these, if you have a friend to help you shaking the bike and/or listening, the more ears the better! <S> Hope it helps!
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Take your bike on your side, lift the rear wheel and let it fall from a short height, many times, while trying to find the noise; Pull the bike along an irregular surface (rocky) and try to figure out the source of noise; Grab the bike by the handlebars, brake rear wheel and lift front wheel until the bike stands. You can check any and all bolts and tighten them, including bottle cage bolts.
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Shoes for oddly shaped feet I have somewhat oddly shaped feet; They're very wide and my big toe on either foot points slightly inwards. Shoes with pointed toes generally cause me a lot of pain, so finding a road shoe has been somewhat difficult. Typically, I buy shoes that are slightly too big, and I'm wondering how this will affect cycling shoes. I'm looking at a leather pair that has an extra inch of room in the toe, and lacing them up very tightly seems to do the trick for now, but I'm worried they'll stretch with time and become too big to hug my foot tightly. Has anybody had similar problems finding cycling shoes? Any recommendations for a wide-toed shoe, or some brand specifically known for conforming to your foot over time? <Q> You should look at using mountain style Shimano SPD compatible shoes. <S> In general, mountain shoes have a little more room and give and there are a lot of brands that are SPD compatible. <S> Keen has a line of cycling shoes and sandals that you can find at larger outdoor retailers like REI or many places online. <S> I mention REI specifically because in the past I have ordered two sizes of clothing and footwear online and returned the one that didn't fit with no hassle. <S> My experience with Keen footwear is that the run a little wide all over and are especially wide in the toe box. <A> Not sure that cycling shoes that are an inch too long would work, the reason being is that your foot would end up pressing down with your toes instead of the ball of your foot, most shoes have some room for adjustment but its measured in millimeters not inches. <S> A quick google found this site: http://www.d2shoe.com/2010/customdefined.html they may be able to accomodate your need, although I dont know how much they will cost! <A> I wear bontrager street shoes. <S> They fit me OK, and I have pretty wide feet, and they also come with customizable insoles from esoles. <S> They offer a decent compromise between speed and comfort for me. <S> Also I can walk around in them which is a bit practical advantage. <S> So I'd give these a look <S> (if you can find any, I don't think they're very widely sold) <A> http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/lake-cx-400-road-shoe-id36796.html Looking at the write-up for these, you can apparently place them in a conventional oven to make them pliable enough to be moulded to your foot shape. <S> I imagine shoes of similar material/build quality will allow the same method. <S> Not cheap though!
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The standard insoles seem to be fine for my feet, but if you have more specialized needs you could get a fitted set (I'd imagine that might cost a lot though).
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Larger tires on a road bike I am curious if anyone has put larger tires (mountainish) on their road bike. I am thinking about doing this to do some riding on gravel roads/touring/commuting from rural areas. I have an older steel Norco. How rough can I ride this with bigger tires without damaging the bike? (Purely just for curiosity. I am not planning on doing any drops etc but if I drop off a curb now and then does that matter?) <Q> Well, it depends a lot on the specific model of bike, and likely even on the exact frame size. <S> You can probably eyeball it to get a good idea. <S> Remember that larger tires are both wider and stick out more from the wheel. <S> If you want to make a big jump you probably also want to get wheels with a wider rim. <S> Note that for off-road tires, the knobs aren't usually counted in the mm size but definitely do affect whether or not the tires fit on your bike. <S> Look for: Front and rear: <S> Brake clearance — can a larger tire fit in the brakes? <S> If this is the only issue, you can get different brakes <S> Rear: <S> Stay width — <S> will a wider tire rub on any of the stays (rear)? <S> Rear: <S> Stay <S> bridge clearance <S> * — will a larger tire hit the bridge between seat stays or chain stays? <S> Rear: Seat tube clearance <S> — many bikes have a geometry where too large of a wheel/tire will hit the seat tube above the cranks Front: Fork clearance <S> — how much room is there under the fork crown? <S> (height and width) <S> Front: Down tube clearance — how much extra room before the front tire hits the downtube? <A> Road frames come in a wide variety of styles, so it's impossible to give an exact answer without knowing more about your bike. <S> Also keep in mind that wider tires also have a larger diameter, so <S> your bike has to have enough clearance for both. <S> A typical modern road bike with caliper brakes is going to have very tight tolerances: many will max out at a 28mm tire, some at only 25mm. <S> When mine was built, I had the frame customized and used long reach brakes just to allow 28mm tires plus fenders -- <S> even then it's a tight fit. <S> Another problem with calipers and wide tires is that you may not have enough brake cable slack to remove the wheel easily (I have to deflate mine slightly to get the tire past the brake shoes). <S> Touring and cyclocross frames tend to be built with much more generous proportions and have room for bigger tires. <S> Using cantilever brakes also helps give much more tire clearance vs. calipers. <S> My last touring frame used 32mm tires and could have easily gone up to at least 35mm, if not bigger. <S> If you're putting on much larger tires, you should also consider larger rims (see Sheldon Brown's tire/rim sizing chart ). <S> Using a big tire on too small a rim is a recipe for trouble. <S> Plus a wider rim adds more strength. <S> So you may need a wheel rebuild to make this happen. <A> If your bike has 700C wheels, you could convert to 650B. <S> The wheel radius is only 25mm less, so most things work the same, but you have that much more room for tires and fenders. <S> You'll probably need to replace your brakes with long-reach brakes. <A> In the eight years since this question was written, road-style bikes with fatter, grippier tyres for off-road use have become pretty common. <S> They're usually called "gravel bikes" or "adventure bikes". <S> Plenty of companies are making bikes of this type: <S> essentially, a relaxed-geometry road-ish frame with enough tyre clearance for something like 40mm tyres for use on ground that's, say, as rough as a hiking trail but not so rough that you'd need a mountain bike. <A> I have a Norco Search 2017 Sora and actually has 700x38C tires (B'Twin tires). <S> It came originally with Schwalbe Road Cruiser 700x32c K-Guard. <S> So, it depends what are the height and width of the fork. <A> For our small expedition with our bicycles in Patagonia we invested into slightly larger tires and more durable ones (we choose the Schwalbe Marathon XR in 700C, the widest our bike frame could accomodate). <S> It did quite a change, you hear more the tire noises, it helps better in muddy terrain and feels more confortable in gravel roads or in the fields. <S> However, it's not really good in sandy parts or when the gravels are too big or too loose. <S> Overall it was a good and needed change, it would have been much less confortable to ride down in Patagonia with out those wider tires. <S> It's not always possible to put different tires because of the rim, brakes or frame.
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On a road bike, odds are high that you can put a slightly larger (say, go from 25mm to 30mm) tire but not a hugely larger tire. If you decide to change yours, follow freiheit advice or go pay a visit to a local bicycle shop.
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How can I improve my pedal stroke? I know a part of biking endurance and speed come from having a perfect pedal stroke. What should I do to improve my pedal stroke? <Q> Pushing down on the pedals is a natural thing. <S> So to improve the "roundness" of your pedal stroke, completely ignore the down-stroke, instead focus on the following: <S> Continuing the pedal stroke "across the bottom". <S> This will probably feel something like trying to scrape mud off the bottom of your shoe. <S> At the top of the up-stroke, focus on sliding your foot over and down into the down-stroke. <S> Focusing on the non-instinctive 3/4 of the pedal stroke has really helped me improve form. <S> Using a fixed gear (or staying in a low-ish gear), find someplace where you can spin out your cadence (a slight down-hill but not too steep). <S> Focusing on the 3/4 of the stroke that isn't pushing straight down, pedal as fast as you can until you find yourself starting to bounce. <S> Keep doing this, and as you get better at the non-down-stroke, you'll find that the pedaling cadence at which you start bouncing will get higher and higher, as your pedal stroke gets more round. <A> One of the best reasons for having a round pedal stroke is efficiency. <S> Some exercises for improving your pedal stroke; the winter is a great time for such low intensity exercises. <S> Pedal a very big gear up hill (20-40 rpm) for intervals of 5-10 min x 2-5/day Pedal with one leg at a time 2-5x4-10 min x twice/week Ride rollers <S> Ride <S> a fixed gear combine two or more of the above. <S> Also note that it is not actually possible to get a perfect pedal stroke. <S> I learned the above exercises from one of Massimo Testa's apprentices who was coaching the UC Davis cycling team. <S> My pedal stroke was smoother than many professionals who had been through the lab, but as you can see (below) my dead spot (going over the top) was only 1/6 as powerful as my down stroke (at 90 degrees). <S> This test was done with pressure sensors on each pedal. <S> My right and left feet are shown by the blue and red lines respectively, at a constant power of 120W and about 90 rpm. <A> Pushing and pulling and rhythm: <S> You'll certainly need clipless pedals - you won't develop a decent stroke if you're only pushing down on the pedal. <S> You need to be pulling as well. <S> I would advocate spending some time riding a fixie, too. <S> If you have to keep you legs moving, you will start to feel more connected to your bike and its speed. <S> Get yourself a cadence monitor and try to maintain an even cadence when in different gears. <S> When you're not on your fixed, concentrate on spinning your legs. <S> Perhaps try a gear or two higher than you might, purely to spin up a higher cadence. <S> Also maybe trying a stationary spinning bike. <A> First, make sure that you're properly fitted to the bike. <S> Very hard to get it right without the basics being in place. <A> If you ride on a trainer some of the time, consider getting a set of rollers. <S> They force you to ride smoothly at a high cadence so you don't bounce up and down, and I've seen them dramatically improve my girlfriend's pedalling technique. <S> They're much better for your technique than a turbo trainer.
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If you pedal stroke is smooth and efficient, you will get more power to the wheels with less effort. On the up-stroke, focus on driving your knee upwards toward the handlebar.
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How can I stop my feet/shins getting soaked/muddy when cycling offroad in the winter? I went for a ride last weekend around some forrest trails, it was particulary muddy with lots of puddles, and was also raining at the time. I've got a good set of mudguards, so my back was reasonably clean The only part that really got wet/dirty were my trainers and shins. I understand mudguards can only prevent dirt/water to a certain extent, but what can I get to prevent me ruining my trainers on each ride? I've heard about overshoes, but have read mixed reviews about how after 10 minutes or so you'll still be just as wet as if you didn't bother, and they're not much use if you come off your bike and step in a puddle.. What about mountain bike shoes, are they waterproof? <Q> I've never had a pair of MTB shoes that are waterproof though I wouldn't doubt if they exist. <S> Even if they were you'd still have water coming of your shin and into the shoe <S> (this is what makes even waterproof shoe covers a bit wet inside). <S> I just tough it out. <S> I have a set of neoprene shoe <S> covers that keep my feet warm and maybe even dry depending on how wet it is. <S> I have a set of full length tights and a set of leg warmers. <S> If either of those are dirty <S> I'll wash them every few rides. <A> Full fenders with mudflaps keep you much, much drier -- you can make your own mudflaps out of a cut-in-half water bottle, if need be. <S> Neoprene booties are nice, too. <A> If you take a look at photo shoots of professional DH/4X riders, you'll be surprised at how many of them use cling-film around their shoes/lower legs to keep them water tight. <S> A bit of a ghetto fix, but if it's good enough for the pros... <A> I wear waterproof Gore-Tex walking boots. <S> My feet have never got wet while wearing them, even when riding in a downpour. <A> For platform pedals , the solution is IMHO obvious: How about mountain hiking boots, with gaiters over them. <S> The boots breathe, unlike nylon wrap or neopren overshoes. <S> Get brown shoes, this way the mud won't stain them. <S> Get the longest possible gaiters - right up to the knee. <A> If you ride SPD shoes, Buy Shimano MW-81 winter boots. <S> They are waterproof with gore-tex lining. <S> Water generally can only enter via the top of the shoe. <S> Combine these with gaiters and you'll be very dry. <S> I find these good down to about freezing and are great for spring / fall commuting or off road riding in sloppy conditions. <S> Also for SPD shoes in colder conditions, buy 45nrth fasterkatt or Wolvhammer boots. <S> They are basically a cycling shoe with a waterproof bootie integrated in to the shoe. <S> Fasterkatt is for moderate cold, Wolvhammer is for sub freezing weather. <S> These are pricey, but very effective. <S> Again, water can infiltrate through the top of the cuff, so gaiter covering the upper area will reduce the chance of that. <S> Shoe covers will help a bit, but most shoes are not sealed around the cleat and are very vented on the sides and may have water infiltration there, and will likely fill up with water if you step in even a shallow puddle. <S> You can wear these with normal shoes. <S> Your feet may get a bit wrinkly, but it keeps the hot water in and the cold water out. <S> If it's not cold, then just deal with wet feet getting wet. <S> Rinse your shoes when you get home and dry them out with newspaper, a hair dryer, or get yourself a fan powered boot dryer. <S> Wear wool socks as well, since if they get wet, they still retain some insulating ability. <S> For you legs, a downtube mounted grunge guard does a good job and can be installed and removed relatively easily and doesn't tend to get in the way of suspension or big tires as much. <A> I don't ride a mountain bike and I ride mostly in the city, but when conditions are wet, I always wear rubber overboots . <S> They're cheap, durable and oh-so stylish.
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Neoprene socks (look for ones called SealSkinz) are recommended by some for very wet and cold weather. The stiff sole, when used on a spiky platform, provides excellent pressure distribution, as if the platform of the pedal was way larger Ankle protection in a possible fall I just hose them off when I clean my bike at the end of the ride and let them dry. The gaiters could also be breathable, if one puts the extra $$ into a pair of gore-tex ones.
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Are rusting screws a sign of cheap/bad material? I noticed rusting screws at a ~ 1 year old bike and rusting screws at another bike after a few months, where the screws were part of a replacement (front gear ring package). Both bikes were usually placed in rain protected places when possible. Thus the question: Is this normal? Or do I have to change my bike dealer? I mean, are not stainless screws standard? Or are they too expensive? <Q> Stainless steel is rust-resistant not rust- proof , especially if the bike sees the outdoors a lot, it isn't uncommon for screws to get a fine sprinkling of brown spots. <S> If you were very enterprising you can probably replace all your screws with titanium ones, they are slightly stronger than steel and are less temperature dependent (not that any of this really matters on a bicycle) and are fairly resistant to corrosion AFAIR a little more so than stainless steel. <S> Painted components (like your bike frame) are naturally rust resistant because the paint prevents contact with oxygen, which means that the metal can't oxidise and also explains why its not a bad idea to touch up on large paint chips or scratches with touch up laquer. <S> ADDED <S> a quick wikipedia glance explains that while stainless steel gets covered in rust, unlike regular steel the rust is passive meaning that it will just stay there (looking unsightly). <S> With regular steel, rust has the nasty habit of eating away at the metal (it is an active oxidation site). <A> This is fairly normal. <S> Many of the screws are are stainless but where you use the hex key on them they still rust. <S> My best guess is that this is because you scuff the metal when you remove and put them back in. <S> I'll also mention that this happens on whitewater kayaks. <S> Again typically in the places where a screw driver has touched the screw/bolt. <S> To my understanding stainless steel is a trade off between stainless and strength. <S> The more stainless it is the weaker it is and so on. <A> Is your frame aluminum? <S> It is worth noting that, due to the differing electrical properties of different materials, oxidation (rust on steel) will occur much more quickly when dissimilar metals are joined. <S> On an aluminum bike with steel hardware, electron transfer between the aluminum and the steel will encourage more-rapid-than-normal deterioration of the steel. <S> Aluminum will continue to look great--actually protected somewhat by the transfer of oxidation to the steel. <S> This isn't an uncommon issue. <S> The U.S. Navy just got done replacing an entire class of destroyers that were built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures--it's a problem that we sometimes accept as a tradeoff. <S> It is, as other respondents have said, easy to just replace a few bolts every now and then. <S> Steel bolts are much stronger than aluminum bolts! <S> But the aluminum frame is plenty strong and is SO MUCH lighter than a steel one. <S> The rusting probably has little to do with the quality of your bike shop.
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The rust on stainless steel behaves like a coating that prevents further oxidation. The good thing about screws is that they can be easily replaced.
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What should I look for in a cycling jersey? Time has come to refresh the wardrobe a little, and the old woollen cycling jerseys need some young blood to compete against. What should I be looking for in a modern cycling top? Is lycra used anymore? Does the cut of the jersey (other than being tight) have any effect? <Q> Fit is the most important thing I look for. <S> A cycling top should fit snugly, without being skin-tight. <S> Having less extra fabric will mean less air resistance, which makes a surprising difference at higher speeds. <S> Also, too much excess fabric will flap in the wind, which can be annoying too. <S> If a long-sleeve, the sleeves need to be long enough to cover your wrists with your arms extended out front. <S> (some normal clothing fails these two checks) <S> One last caveat about jersey style: <S> make sure the zipper opens far enough for you to be able to take it off after a long sweaty ride. <S> I have one with a short zipper <S> and it's a real struggle. <S> For materials, there's <S> lots of nice synthetics to choose from that are lightweight, wick away moisture and are very comfortable in hot weather. <S> But for cool or wet conditions, nothing beats wool. <A> I've had a wasp enter my shirt while I was doing 70 <S> + <S> km/h down hill on two occasions <S> and it was all I could do to keep my bike under control while breaking as hard as possible. <S> Apart from that, like darkcanuck , I look for a tight fit, a long back, and long enough sleeves (for long-sleeve jerseys anyway). <S> I prefer light synthetic materials for summer riding and wool for when the weather gets colder (I actually wear woolen jerseys all year round here in the Netherlands). <S> An extra advantage of wool I like is that it doesn't pick up the sweaty smell as quickly as synthetics do. <A> If you do longer trips then check if the bags on the back are large and solid enough. <S> I also like summer jerseys that have zippers to the bottom or at least low enough. <S> This is especially practical when riding uphill on hot days. <A> Agree with previous posts, you want a perfect fit first and foremost. <S> Personally I also look for the particulars, like a good quality zip and proper stitching - its a dead giveaway between a knock-off and something that is going to last you the years to come.
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One essential feature I have learned to appreciate in cycling jerseys is a tight fit around my neck, preferably with a zipper. Make sure that the length in back is long enough to cover your lower back when you're riding in an aggressive position.
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Are slick tires worth it for commuting? I commute to work on a Marin San Rafael on roads over a mix of flat to steep roads. My bike came with "700 x 35c with Puncture Protection" semi-slick tires: In the bike shed at work I noticed another bike had slick tires, without any tread. After doing a little research online I found these tires : I'm wondering whether or not it's worth changed my existing tires for these. My main desire is faster, easier riding on the road. Will these (or similar) tires provide less rolling resistance over the default tires I already have? <Q> Rolling resistance is huge and equates directly to effort, though as you start going really fast it is dwarfed by air and gravity of course. <S> Per the graph here : <S> However, one caution: <S> road tires tend to be skinny, and you probably want fat-but-bald tires instead. <S> If you go from a 35mm wide treaded tire to a 25mm bald tire, you will feel a lot more bumps. <S> So in summary: bald, for sure, but don't sacrifice too much width/comfort in the process. <A> Short answer: <S> Yes. <S> You will notice a significant difference immediately by moving to a proper road tire. <S> Unless you are doing significant amounts of riding of that bike on dirt or mud, you are better off going with the gators. <S> Those tires are pretty tough and will do well even if you have some of your commute on gravel. <S> (I have these on my commuter bike) <A> All the above answers are seriously off in their estimation of the effect it will have on your speed. <S> Going from semi-slick tires, like the ones pictured, to even very narrow slick tires will not improve your averages by more than 1-2 km/h. <S> The effect of rolling resistance on pavement is not "huge", it's dwarfed by air resistance, especially at higher speeds <S> (air resistance increases in proportion to the square of speed, while rolling resistance increases linearly). <S> You can try to plug different rolling resistances into this model to see how little effect it will have on your average speed (and since you are on a trekking bike, your position's frontal area will be definitely closer to 0.7 than 0.4) <S> : http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesSpeed_Page.html <A> Yup. <S> Go for it. <S> I recently changed from my hybrid's default 700x35 with some tread to a 700x32 slick. <S> Since my avg. <S> speed has gone up a couple mph <S> I think it was worth the change from an "effort" perspective. <S> Granted <S> , I wonder if going from 80 max psi on the factory tires to 110 max psi isn't the key factor here. <S> But I like it! <A> This summer I switched from pretty nobby tires on my mountain bike to slicks. <S> I was doing a longer overnight trip with a friend and wanted to put in a little less effort. <S> I found that I could go so much faster with slicks that the gearing on my bike was bordering on being too slow. <S> Just shows what a bit difference swapping out the tires does. <S> Here is one counter argument about swapping out your tires. <S> After you switch to slick tires, going the same distance, you will exert much less energy. <S> If you are cycling for exercise and only want to go a certain distance you will get a better workout with studdy tires. <A> I switched from 40mm semi knobby tyres to 32mm slicks . <S> Replaced the original tubes too, which were very heavy, with lighter road tubes. <S> The difference for commuting was wonderful. <S> I could go about 15%-18% faster or the same speed with 15%-18% less effort(at normal 20-25kph speeds). <S> Really noticeable into a head wind or up a slight grade. <S> Should have done it years ago. <S> The slicks were just cheap ones with very slight tread pattern. <S> The tyres are quieter too! <A> Do it. <S> I went from a commuter-friendly Schwalbe tyre to Specialized Fat Boys. <S> The difference on my 6mile commute is palpable and has made my ride to work a lot more fun. <A> You don't need to have the same tires on the front and rear.
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A high pressure slick on the rear will cut down friction, but you can keep a lower pressure one at the front for better grip and comfort. Yes, definitely -- if you're riding on mostly paved roads, switch to bald-ish tires.
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When and how tight should you adjust your clipless pedals? I'm new to clipless pedals. I got some Shimano ones, with Specialized MTB shoes. They are an SPD clipless pedal, and the shop adjusted them as loose as they go to unclip from them. My questions are: How tight should I adjust them? I'm not unclipping unexpectedly from the pedals, and so far (crossing fingers) have not had any crashes due to the settings. When would you want to change the tightness of the pedals? Based on terrain? Riding? etc? Do you ever really adjust them? <Q> Two guidelines: <S> If you're unclipping unexpectedly (happens most often when pulling up) then increase the tension. <S> That means turning the adjustment bolt clockwise to increase the spring tension. <S> Turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise to relax the spring. <S> If you're not having either problem, then no need to adjust at all. <S> If you're having both, then you'll need to choose which is more important (probably clipping in/out) and adjust for that. <S> (It's been a while since I used SPDs, but I think double-sided pedals have an adjustment bolt for each side -- make sure to set both the same!) <A> The answer is, as often the case, 'it depends', but these are the guidelines I tend to go by: <S> If you are new to clipless, I'd tend to leave them a bit loose, at least until you get past the 'in danger of tipping over at a stop sign' phase of clipless ownership. <S> If they aren't causing you problems <S> and you don't do much aggressive riding <S> , I'd leave them setup at pretty loose. <S> If you do any racing or spirited group rides, then it will probably be worth it to tighten them down some. <S> Coming out of the pedals while standing and sprinting is a fairly good way to end up on the pavement or taking someone else out. <A> I haven't adjusted mine in 2 years (?) <S> - all I do is wipe a bit of lube on the pedal cleat clip thingy when I oil my chain. <S> Keeps my foot from freezing into the clip.
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If you're having trouble clipping in/out then loosen the tension until you can easily clip in/out when you need to. If you are a mountain biker and you use this bike to alternate between cross country and commuting rides, then I personally would tighten the clips before doing any lengthy or technical offroad rides.
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Is it ever legal in the USA not to have two brakes on a bike? When using a bike on a road in the USA, is it ever legal not to have separate brakes on the front and back wheels? <Q> Many places have adopted the Uniform Vehicle Code language . <S> It currently states: 12-706. <S> Brake required Every bicycle shall be equipped with a brake or brakes which will enable its driver to stop the bicycle within 25 feet from a speed of 10 miles per hour on dry, level, clean pavement. <S> (FORMER 11-1207(c)). <S> The goal of the UVC is to have consistent laws between states, counties, and municipalities. <S> It doesn't entirely work - often <S> the process of changing the laws is too complicated, so many outdated variations exist. <S> In 2006, Portland, Oregon saw an interesting challenge a similarly-worded law. <S> A cyclist was cited for failure to have two brakes, even though the fixed gear on their bicycle allowed them to meet the requirements of the statute. <S> (Ridiculously, the previous UVC phrasing that the ORS statute is based on doesn't even require the ability to stop , only the ability to skid .) <S> The judge and ticketing officer's contention was that a brake must be a separate device . <S> Meeting the UVC phrasing is your best bet for a US-wide policy, but definitely review the local statutes for the places you will be riding if you are concerned. <A> I don't recall anything in the Ohio Revised Code that requires bikes to have any brakes. <S> I've never seen a single speed bike around here that had anything other than the standard rear coaster brake. <S> While that doesn't prove legality, the shops around here tend to be really picky about all the details (such as not wanting to sell/service bikes without sound making devices back when those were required). <A> For example in Minnesota from https://www.revisor.mn.gov/statutes/?id=169.222 <S> (b) <S> No person shall operate a bicycle unless it is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make the braked wheels skid on dry, level, clean pavement. <S> It's kind of hard to tell if this means one or two brakes is required. <S> However, it is enforced that a single front brake is acceptable, yet skidding the front wheel is never a good thing, but not doing so doesn't mean the brake is not capable of safely stopping the bicycle. <A> The laws may differ from county to county and state to state, but as it stands for California : <S> V C Section 21201 Equipment Requirements <S> (a) <S> By this interpretation, so long as you have a brake that allows you to skid your tires, it is legal for you to ride your bicycle. <S> Some may even argue that riding fixed gear and skidding the rear tire technically makes for a legal brake equivalent. <S> I do however feel that this law is lacking, as it is near impossible to skid the front tire with a brake on a level, clean pavement, and a disgruntled officer may use it as an excuse to ticket you, even though it holds 80% of the braking power. <S> But that's another tangent... <A> Although they are very rare, we even occasionally see "fixed gear" bikes with no brakes whatever. <S> The panic-stop routine is either to try pedal-back-pressure or to press the soles of your feet against the tires..... <S> Lunacy, <S> but I don't know of any law against it locally.
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No person shall operate a bicycle on a roadway unless it is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make one braked wheel skid on dry, level, clean pavement. It depends on the state , and some states have bizarre wordings.
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Why don’t fixed gear bikes have brakes? It seems to be assumed you will not have any brakes on a fixed gear bike, why? <Q> The reason is historical. <S> Fixed gear bikes have been traditionally used for track racing, long after most other bikes had switched to using freewheels. <S> In the high-speed velodrome environment, it would be dangerous if the rider in front of you could brake suddenly: you would crash into them, and likely most of the group behind you would join in the fun (this is also true in a paceline or peloton on normal roads). <S> So brakes have always been banned, and aren't really needed on the track anyway. <S> But track bikes sometimes get retired to road use. <S> And as fixed gear has gotten more popular, many frame makers are building similar bikes for the road. <S> Some of them are closer to track bikes (no brakes), others might include front brakes or both front and rear. <A> You surely must mean a fixed gear bike. <S> A freewheeling bike with no brakes is going to require you to stop via crashing, some sort of flinstones-esque maneuver, or a ted shred move. <S> A fixed gear bike can be ridden marginally safely because the pedals are locked to the rear wheel in both directions, so locking up your legs can slow down the rear wheel. <S> People do that because they believe it gives them a better connection and feel with the road, a more 'zen' riding experience, and that the bike has better looks. <S> Fixed gear bikes are ridden in track racing with no brakes, and so the track bike origin is part of why people ride them on the street with no brakes. <S> There are still many people who have brakes on fixed gear bikes. <S> I have a fixed gear, but I have brakes on it because I prefer to stop quickly and safely. <S> People that ride coasting bikes with no brakes are insane. <S> Lastly, this excludes coaster braked bikes, which have a brake built in the hub, common on bikes for small children. <A> When a fixie on the road has no brakes it is because someone is being macho. <S> They will insist they can stop just as quickly or they can always see the road and path ahead. <S> The former being easily disproven and <S> the latter generally being optimistic. <S> There seems to be a fair overlap with the same crowd that shuns helmets in traffic. <S> I ride a fixie with two brakes (rear rarely used). <S> The bike store near me sells fixed gear bikes set up for both track (no brakes, swept handlebars so as not to catch) and for road (with brakes and regular handlebars). <A> My fixed gear bike has brakes. <S> And I wear a helmet when riding it. <S> And I don't listen to my iPod while on the bike. <S> I'm the new non-conformist. <A> Why spoil the clean look of a lumberjack shirt, rolled up jeans and espadrilles with hideous cabling, calipers and pads? <A> I'm not sure about that assumption, while you can ride a fixed without brakes and use solely pedal pressure, I wouldn't want to rely on it on the road. <S> Track bikes don't have brakes and historically fixies came from the track. <S> My fixed has both front and rear (although I don't use the rear much as it chews through pads) and while I can brake reasonably well with just the pedals, through in the front brake too and I can stop on a sixpence. <S> Of course, in the UK to be strictly road-legal you must have at least one brake.
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A track bike has no brakes because braking would cause a pile up.
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Sandals in the winter? Other winter footwear options? I used Shimano cycling sandals during the summer months here in the Chicago, Illinois area. I'm wondering if I can use these during the cold winter months also or if different shoes are required. In favor of continuing to use the sandals, I could add SealSkinz and/or wool sock layers as the sandals are expandable. Other than looking strange in the winter, are there problems with doing this? What other winter cycling footwear should be considered? <Q> I go through 3 different types of shoes as the seasons change: <S> Hot (80F+): sandals Variable (30-80F): indoor soccer shoes (eg adidas sambas) <S> Cold (30F-): <S> light hiking boots/ <S> trail running shoes <S> For cold weather, you not only need to be comfortable while pedaling on your bike, but also confident off your bike. <S> Lightweight hiking boots, with windproofing, waterproofing, and breathable layers, not only keep your feet happy while pealing but also let you feel like a mountain goat when you put your foot down in the slush at a stop light, or dismount on top of ice, or have to portage down wet stairs. <S> Trail running shoes with these attributes are also a great choice if you want something even lighter and without the additional ankle support. <S> As others mention, wool/smartwool socks and switching to platform/toe clip/half-clips on your pedals are both good changes in addition to changing up your footwear. <S> My winter setup is smartwool socks, size 13 light hiking boots from North Face and Velo Orange half-clips. <A> In the winter I wear neoprene overshoes/galoshes. <S> (Some kind of socks on the outside of my shoes): <S> These are not intended for walking. <S> They wear very much, and the nose slides up, even after a few steps. <S> The bottom is open, so you can use your SPD or other clickless pedals. <S> But while cycling they keep your foot dry and warm. <S> And they protect your shoes from dirt and mud. <S> In the autumn and winter, I always wear them for "sport cycling" (mtb, road). <S> I wished they were around when used to cycle to school (20 km through open terrain). <A> I haven't tried it myself, but according to the quite informative ICEBIKE website , sandals with layers of socks, including breathable waterproof ones, works quite well. <S> There are a number of cyclists, not always in the coldest of climates, but plenty chilly never the less, that swear by SPD Sandals, either from Shimano, or those pictured at right from Lake. <S> What's this, you say, are they Daft? <S> Not at all. <S> Sandals adopt quickly to the addition of another layer of socks, Gore-Tex Oversocks, or neoprene booties. <S> When out in the cold wet, you won't have wet shoes, as no water accumulates, it all runs off. <S> Personally, I just wear boots, and use toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots. <A> I have done the sandals and socks through the winter, living in Minnesota. <S> I usually would wear 3 layers of wool socks. <S> When it was wet, I'd put a plastic bag between the outermost sock and the next one in. <S> It worked very well and my feet were never cold. <S> There are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime though. <S> You sure do look kinda funny when you do that though. <A> I've got some "toe warmer" type things that slip over the front of my cycling shoes. <S> Has an opening in them to go around the clipping mechanism. <S> Works <S> surprisingly well. <S> I go cycling in the snow with them, but have not gone out in days colder than upper 20's (F). <A> Living here in Southern California doesn't make me the best judge of "wet and cold" cycling gear, but I have had a few experiences in heavy downpours. <S> Being low on a budget, I find that it's often easy enough to slip a plastic bag over my socks and then lacing up my shoes, but there is a serious lack of style there, not to mention that your feet can't breath. <S> I have found a better alternative to keeping my feet dry regardless of what shoes I happen to wear, but it requires a little bit of work. <S> I happen to be lucky enough to own one of those wooden shoe inserts that help retain the shoes' shape. <S> Anyhow, through layering plastic bags and ironing them together, I was able to make a thicker "fabric" of sorts which was molded to the shape of the inside of my shoe. <S> I also made some that fit over the shoe, and it has done an incredibly good job at keeping my feet dry, on a low budget, with minimal weight increase. <S> While they are a little pricey, it helps your feet breath and keeps the cold water out. <S> And while I have not tried it myself, I hear that shoe covers work just as nicely. <S> There are many winter foot wear options <S> so I thought I'd list a few. <A> I've been using Lake's winter biking shoe for many years. <S> The latest model (MXZ302) is absolutely superb. <S> They fixed the main problem the shoe had which was the escape of heat through the cleat. <S> Now with the latest MXZ302, two inner wool sock layers, and an external booty (of any brand) I can ride in temps down to -15 <S> (minus fifteen) celsius (I think that's about 5 degrees farenheit) without frozen toes. <S> And I have chronic low blood pressure which causes my feet and fingers to go numb easily. <S> Now, if I could only fix the frozen finger issue... <A> In the winter I use Shimano MT60 MTB shoes - really comfy, gore-tex, warm and you can run cross-country in them with a bike on your shoulder. <S> They were fine down to -20 Centigrade last winter.
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Another solution which works quite well are neoprene socks which you can wear directly over your feet, or over a few layers of socks.
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what to do during the week before a century? I'm planning to do a century ride in the near future, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do in the week leading up to the ride (besides training - duh). I was thinking inspecting your bike, carbo loading, etc? What to eat? How to sleep? Should I be riding at all? etc <Q> What to do: Eat well, but don't overdo it. <S> A hearty meal the night before and a solid breakfast the morning of the ride are a must. <S> Get plenty of sleep. <S> If you've been burning the midnight oil lately, cut back on your riding and catch more z's. <S> Lube your chain (and clean if needed). <S> Check your tires for any debris like glass or wire that might work <S> it's way through during the ride. <S> Top up the air in your tires. <S> What NOT to do: any high-intensity rides or workouts <S> another century (disregard if you normally do centuries on a regular basis) major mechanical changes to the bike <S> any bike fit adjustments buy new shoes <S> (Assuming you've got the base training in already, of course) <A> If you do that, do it early in the week though, so the last few days before the century you can take it easy and be fully recovered by the day of the big ride. <S> Ideally you'd have done something like a 60-70 mile ride a couple weeks before hand, but the last week is really a bit late for that. <S> As far as the bike goes, my advice is to inspect it, but resist the urge to "fiddle" with things -- if you see something that's really wrong , fix it, but otherwise leave it alone. <S> In particular, do not change any adjustments in the hope of making things a bit better -- you're better off with the bike adjusted as you're accustomed to it, than deciding that maybe you'd be just a tiny bit better with the seat raised and the handlebars dropped a bit (or whatever). <A> It really depends on what you're normally used to and what your aim for the century is. <S> If a century is a big deal for you (that isn't meant to be patronising) <S> I would think that your training schedule will have been slowly building up the miles over the previous few months, throwing in occasional shorter and sharper rides for a bit of variety <S> ( never underestimate the importance of speed work while building up your endurance). <S> Your last longer ride will have been 60-70 miles a couple of weeks before, probably with 40-50 the previous weekend. <S> Your body will adapt gradually to incremental additions and will keep hold of the new abilities for a while. <S> Don't be afraid to do nothing in the week before if that's what you feel like <S> , you won't lose all ability (even stopping your bike commute if you do that), but utterly resist the temptation to cram in any sessions you feel like you've missed. <S> As others have said, it's too late to fix your training schedule now. <S> In many sports there's a saying that a start to a race won't win it for you, but it can surely lose it for you if it's bad enough, and this goes as well for the week before a long event. <S> My advice, especially if it's your first century, is to rest well, eat well, hydrate well. <S> Try and do a short-ish ride (25-30 miles) a few days before, at the very least to make sure your bike is ok. <S> And never, ever, do something new and untested to your equipment on race day: that includes new shoes, new shirt, new power bars, even new bar tape. <S> You might get away with a new bottle, that's about it.
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Feel free to ride, but go for less distance and intensity than you normally would. Make sure you get plenty of sleep, eat about normally, and ride less -- mostly just enough to stretch your legs, with maybe one semi-hard ride to tire you out somewhat. Check that your brakes still work properly. Stay well-hydrated.
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Repairing a bent bike frame, is it worth it? I have a bike with an incredibly bent frame. The bike itself I have tried to replace with other inexpensive bixes, but this one just had a certain geometry that I keep wanting to resurrect it. It is one of those give-away Schwinn Firenze GL 5000 road bikes from the 80's . I continue trying to find a replacement as I am sure it will be cheaper (and the bike holds no sentimental value aside from the quality of ride); but for the sake of reference, how much would it cost to get a bike frame bent back into shape? I think this frame was likely an lightweight steel one, but referencing aluminum & carbon prices would be appreciated, too. (I don't know if it's even a viable solution, but wanted to at least crush the hope if it wasn't.) <Q> If its "incredibly bent" then the answer is no. <S> Replacing a tube on a typical lugged steel frame will run you a couple hundred dollars from a good frame builder. <S> It goes up from there. <A> Even if the frame is repairable, you should consider the forces that it experienced which led to its bending in the first place. <S> Steel--and these Firenze frames were steel, Chromo-oly, I think--will accept a fair bit of abuse and isn't as prone to catastrophic failure as aluminum. <S> I have had steel frames break, though--and it always happens at some point where the metal was stressed. <S> If this bike has been through the wringer enough to bend it "incredibly", then even if you fixed it, the problems would not end there. <S> One day, you'll ride along an notice a new sway in the frame if your lucky... then you'll notice that the downtube is cracking at the shifter braze-ons. <S> Or maybe you'll hear a squeek and notice that one of the seatstays has detached itself from the seattube... <S> there are just too many variables for it to be WORTH what it would cost to even replace a tube as whatsisname reasonably suggested. <S> These bikes were giveaways. <S> If it fits you well, you know what you are looking for. <S> Measure the bike <S> so you know what size it is, and start hunting on ebay and on www.bicyclebunker.com for your new ride! <S> At bicyclebunker, you can find pretty much whatever you want. <S> You just have to negotiate with a seller on shipping. <S> Get rid of that thing or make it into an art-piece! <A> If you really just liked the bike because of a "certain geometry that I keep wanting to resurrect", have you considered getting a frame custom-built? <S> This is still expensive, but probably in the same ballpark like getting the frame repaired, and you could ask the builder to make you a bike with the same geometry as the old bike (or maybe even improve it :-)).
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I agree with the other posters: Bending back will probably not work, because every bending act weakens the metal (less for steel than for light alloy, but still).
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Difference between 650c and 700c wheels? I've seen triathalon setups with either 650c or 700c wheels. What are the pros and cons behind both wheel sizes? <Q> They are primarily used for high-performance road bikes for smaller riders. <S> 650c wheels are designed to address that. <S> Smaller riders can also have road bikes built with 26" wheels. <S> So if you are of average height there is no significant advantage to 650c wheels. <A> I have been considering this question lately. <S> Here's my input... <S> I understand that 650 wheels have advantages because: <S> The less weight there is the easier <S> it is for the wheel to accelerate, turn and climb. <S> I understand that 650 wheels have dis-advantages because: Less popular than 700 & 26" with retailers, so potentially harder to source. <S> Smaller diameter means bumpier ride on uneven surfaces. <S> Less weight, less inertia. <S> Less inertia means more prone to small speed fluctuations caused by things like uneven pedal stroke, wind gusts, and road bumps/fluctuations. <S> Most likely less aerodynamic. <S> Generally speaking the longer something is in relation to its width then the more streamlined it is. <A> I'm in the USA and mostly ride on 700's so that is the angle from which I see this. <S> 700C wheels are larger and will require slighty less energy to make them go round and round. <S> If you have a really small frame (like an XS), though, these 700's may be large enough to cause toe overlap. <S> In this case, you're hitting your toes on the tires when going around corners. <S> Not good. <S> Smaller frames often have 650 wheels for this reason and also because the smaller wheel allows a slightly lower stand-over height. <S> 700C wheels are the most common size road wheels in the USA. <S> Elsewhere, my understanding is that 650's are more common. <S> The real cons of the 650 is that they are less common in the States and are slightly smaller and therefore not quite as fast. <S> If you are doing Tri and you are doing it just in the USA... <S> I think that 700's are the way to go. <A> Since this might have really been a question about 650, I am going to answer if from perspective of why use 650B. 650B is common in Randonneur style bike, currently one of the more popular types of bikes being requested in the handmade bicycle market. <S> 650B allows the use of 42 width tires with full fenders, big tires even at low pressure with 650B become about same size total diamteter as 700's with typical racing widht high pressure tires 25 width for example. <S> 650B rando bike with compact crank designed for front load carrying may the fastest overall bike for practical use, see Bicycle Quarterly magazine for detailed analysis.
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Some touring bikes will have 650's even in larger size frames for this reason--if you need a new tire in Romania, it may be eaisier to find 650's than 700's. There comes a point where a proper fitting frame for a smaller rider will have strange handling using 700c wheels. Less weight, less inertia.
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What size are the nuts holding the front wheel? I am trying to install a front wheel on a bike - the axle of the wheel is threaded, but I'm having trouble finding out what size thread it is, and what nut can go on this. The size of the thread on the axle is the same as an 8 mm screw, but a standard M8 nut (with 13 mm hex) does not fit on it. Do bikes have some special kind of nut there? If I look at the thread, and at a standard M8 screw, the thread on the bike axle is a bit more dense then on the screw, but I am not aware of existence of two kinds of M8 nuts, so far every M8 nut I've seen fits every M8 screw. <Q> Park Tool list a number of common sizes . <S> 3/8 inch <S> x 24 tpi <S> Some solid axle bikes, including coaster brake <S> 3/8 inch <S> x 26 tpi Solid rear axle <S> 10mm x 1mm Most quick release rear axles <S> 10mm <S> x 26 tpi Rear axle, quick release, Campganolo <S> ® Note that the difference between 24 and 26 tpi is small and can be subtle, meaning that if you're using a spanner to do the nut up you can wreck the nut without really noticing that anything is wrong. <S> The symptom is often that the nut strips before ever becoming tight. <S> To avoid this put the nut on by hand until it is right over the axle. <S> If it still spins freely it is the right thread pitch. <S> Less commonly you will find 12mm or 14mm axles, often on load bikes and Asian or African bikes, and some mountain bikes. <S> But those are fairly obvious. <S> Some older front axles were 9mm or even 8mm, and they bend easily. <S> It's sometimes possible to replace a 9mm axle with a 10mm one, depending on the bearing cups you have available. <A> There's a wide variety of axle diameters and threading. <S> There is a spiffy table here: list of common bicycle thread sizes from Park Tool. <S> Edit: while it's probably too much to include the whole table, the ø8mm sizes are reproduced below. <S> 8 <S> mm x 1mm Square-type crank bolts, front solid axle hubs, suspension system hardware 8 <S> mm <S> x 1.25 <S> mm <S> Stem hardware, stud type crank nuts, suspension hardware <S> 8mm x 0.75mm <S> Chainring bolt <S> So, 8x1 isn't exclusive to bike use or non-standard <S> , it's just less common. <A> Could be 5/16" which is very close to M8 (7.9375mm vs. 8mm). <S> Thread might be UNF 24 (24 threads per inch) or British Cycle Std. <S> at 26 threads per inch. <S> There are even some that are metric in terms of diameter but use BSC for thread spacing! <S> If it's 5/16" at 26 threads per inch then an M8-1.00 nut may fit since 25.4 tpi is very close to 26 tpi and 7.9mm diameter is very close to 8mm. <A> It is a M8 1.0 nut. <S> I found out the hard way because all the hardware store has was a M8 1.25, so I bought it and the threads were way too coarse <A> First try your LBS, take the wheel with you. <S> You might save yourself pain in the long run by swapping out the axle for a standard size thread. <A> So, in your case you need to know if the threads on your axle are 8mm course, 8mm fine or 8mm extra fine. <S> Also as already mentioned, your axle could be an imperial size not metric, for example 3/8" is a common size <A> The below answer is copied from ( http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/basic-thread-concepts ) <S> Bicycle Industry Threads <S> The bicycle industry has a long history of using many different thread standards. <S> Both factional and metric sizes are in use. <S> Below is a table of some of the threads and their uses. <S> This table is not intended to be complete and exhaustive. <S> Always measure diameter and pitch when possible to determine threading. <S> Nominal Thread Size Example of Bicycle Uses2.2 <S> mm x 56 tpi <S> Common <S> 2mm spoke threading3mm <S> x 0.5mm <S> Dropout adjustment screws, some derailleur hardware, accessory hardware4mm <S> x 0.7mm <S> Some derailleur limit screws (DIN standard)4mm <S> x 0.75mm <S> Common derailleur limit screw (JIS standard)5mm <S> x 0.8mm <S> Many uses on bicycles, including derailleur wire pinch bolts/nuts, disc rotor mounting bolts, fender and racks mounts, water bottle cage bolts, and others6mm <S> x 1mm <S> Many uses on bicycles, including brake caliper mounting bolts, brake pad bolts/nuts, some fender racks, some brake adjusting barrels7mm <S> x 1mm <S> Some handlebar binder bolts5/16 inch <S> x 24 tpi Front hubs, solid axle, less expensive bikes8 <S> mm x 1mm <S> Square-type crank bolts, front solid axle hubs, suspension system hardware8mm <S> x 1.25 <S> mm <S> Stem hardware, stud type crank nuts, suspension hardware8mm <S> x 0.75mm Chainring bolt9 <S> mm <S> x 1mm <S> Front hubs, quick release, Asian manufacturer9 <S> mm x 26 tpi Front hubs, Campagnolo <S> ®3/8 inch x 24 tpi <S> Some solid axle bike, including coaster brake3/8 inch <S> x 26 tpi <S> Solid rear <S> axle10 <S> mm x <S> 1 <S> mm <S> Most quick release rear axles, derailleur mounting bolts, brake lever adjusting barrels10 <S> mm <S> x 26 tpi <S> Rear axle, quick release, Campganolo® <S> 12mm x 1mm <S> Some spline crankset bolts1/2 <S> inch <S> x <S> 20 tpi Pedal threads, one-piece cranks9/16 inch x <S> 20 tpi Pedal threads- <S> common three piece <S> cranks14 <S> mm x <S> 1mm <S> Oversized frestyle <S> axles15 <S> mm x <S> 1mm tpi <S> Crank bolt, Octalink® and ISIS Drive <S> ®1-inch x 24 tpi Threaded headsets, one-inch standard1-1/8 inch x 26 tpi Thread headset, 1-1/8 inch <S> standard1-1/4 inch x 26 tpi Thread headset, 1-1/4 inch <S> standard1.37 inch <S> x <S> 24 tpi Bottom brackets, ISO/English/BSC, and threaded freewheel <S> hubs1-3/8 inch x 26 tpi Bottom brackets, older “Raleigh” three <S> speeds36mm <S> x 24 tpi <S> “Italian” threaded bottom brackets
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Assuming that the thread on the axle that you are trying to fit a nut is metric, you need to be aware that with metric threads there are 3 different pitches on every size. FWIW 8x1.25 is the (coarse) default for M8, but 8x1 and even 8x0.75 are allowed as the "fine" pitches by ISO 262. Some threads are also used almost exclusively in the bicycle industry.
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Bicycle innovations in the pipeline? The (road) bike I bought 25 years ago is very similar to my current bike. (The derailleur on my new bike adjusts exactly the same way). The materials of my current bike are vastly different than the old one. Other than that it's all the same. What are upcoming bicycle innovations, and if so what? Considering the comments Last week cruising through a bike shop, I saw a carbon fiber chain. Have not seen any sort of radical shifting system lately. <Q> I dunno about upcoming innovations, but I reject the idea that nothing much has changed in the last 25 years. <S> Bike lights have improved enormously. <S> I started cycling with the big EverReady-style lights that took two enormous D cells and gave only a few hours of rather weak light (that is, if the bulb didn't fail). <S> If you wanted to ride for moderate distances in the dark then you had to use a dynamo that dragged like a 30kph headwind while you were moving and went out as soon as you stopped. <S> Now my rear LED light lasts all winter on two AAAs, and my high-power front LED is good enough to ride all night on dark country lanes on four AAs. <S> Dynamos have improved too, with hub dynamos and standlights the norm. <S> GPS has made a big difference to navigation. <S> No more staring at maps in the dark to figure out where on earth you are and why that junction that you should have reached 5km ago has stubbornly failed to show up yet. <S> Online mapping makes planning bike rides much easier: a route-planning task that used to involve covering your floor with maps and marker pens can be done in a few minutes on your computer. <S> And you can check out the awkward junctions in Google StreetView <S> so you won't get lost. <S> Mechanically, the advantage of the upright bike is its simplicity, ease of repair, and standard parts. <S> There can be tinkering around the edges: better materials, cheaper parts, slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers). <S> There's nothing much that needs doing to improve the machine. <S> What we can improve is the way we ride. <A> Folding bikes are getting better and there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system. <S> Low maintenance is important for a lot of people, so better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes are important to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires. <S> It must be possible to come up with better locking/tracking systems. <S> There have been lots of advances in practical light systems over the last few years, this will continue. <S> However all the above must be cheap enough that they come as standard on a “cheap” bike brought from the local supermarket; otherwise they don’t have any effect in the “real world”. <S> I see the biggest need for innovations being aimed at people who see a bike as a transport solution, rather then an object to worship. <S> However most innovations are created by and for people that love bikes. <S> (My wife can own and drive a car, while knowing nothing about how a car works; she just has to book it into the garage once a year when they send her a reminder [or a "error" light comes on]. <S> How can bike be made as easy to use and own?) <A> Electricity Electric gadgets on bikes (while available now) will become mainstream. <S> Examples Electrical bikes , not the ones your grandmother uses to go shopping, but electrical race- and mountainbikes. <S> Implemented using invisible and low weight devices like the Gruber Assist . <S> You could also think about electronic shifters like the Dura Ace di2 . <A> On my wish list would be more focus on comfort (consider the timelessness of the Brooks saddle combined with newer materials/design) and reliability (could we get puncture-resistant tires that don't have so much rolling resistance please?). <S> Too much focus is currently on weight and aerodynamics -- which makes sense given that pro racing typically drives innovation, but doesn't help the average cyclist much. <A> Heck there is even a Wikipedia entry on it. <S> I have never tried riding one. <S> But the thing about bicycles is they are pretty darn good, as currently designed. <S> Brake innovations have come and gone (things like disc brakes on MTB's). <S> I am sure there are more. <A> Belt-drive is on the rise. <S> Supposedly much quieter than a chain, and no lube... <A> I've had the same niggling feeling myself, yes our bike lights are better than 20 years ago and the frame is a 'nicer' type of aluminium <S> but that's not much. <S> A cross over vehicle that takes the best from the HPV world and the best from the cycling world would rock. <S> The role of the UCI in restricting aerodynamic innovation is probably to blame. <A> What I really fear is strong-hybrid bikes. <S> Not hybrid as in a normal bike, but an electric bike with pedals, but the pedals are only connected to a generator. <S> Pedal when you want, how much you like. <S> It doesn't matter so long as you have enough juice left. <S> That's going to change the feel of cycling much more than current electric bikes do. <A> Many improvements already exist: everything in the hubs (dynamos, brakes, gears) chainless transmisison <S> puncture-free tires <S> recumbent bikes <S> Moreover, many equipments are available today that didn't exist 25 years ago, especially for carrying things and people.
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I think current trends in simpler bikes with cleaner lines might help popularize (thus bringing the price down) wide-range internal gear hubs like the Rohloff hub . There is a drive shaft bike available.
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How do I change a road bike into a commuter bike? I have a road bike that I commute to work on, just a 9km trip each way. I also have some tightness in my lower back, especially since I usually sit in front of a computer screen. My wife wants me to change my road bike set up so that I am no longer bent over when riding, but have a more upright posture. Can I change the stem and handle bars easily (and cheaply) for a flat bar configuration so as to turn my road bike into a commuter bike? P.S. I am also planning on getting some panniers fitted, so as to take the weight of a backpack off me, but that will probably be another question. <Q> You can probably change the stem to something shorter with more rise and not have anything else to change. <S> This may be enough to relieve the back pressure and the drop bars will give you more hand positions which I've always found easier on my carpal tunnel. <S> Changing the handle bars to flat bars will mean you have to get a set of shifters and brake levers to go with the new handle bar style. <S> I'm a designer and programmer <S> so I understand the issues around sitting all day. <S> A better investment may be in your chair at the office and your desk. <S> You're spending way more time sitting there every day than you are on your bike. <S> That is the place that you can most likely get the most benefit by setting it up for a proper ergonomic workspace. <A> Getting the weight of your back is a good idea. <S> Much better than getting some hybrid good for nothing cycle! <S> I am hesitant to suggest exercises as I am not a doctor <S> but there is a lot of body-weight stuff you can do easily enough. <A> I do not know how heavy your backpack is, but I would defo start by getting that off your back, If you carry your laptop round in it then its too heavy. <S> Stick it in a saddle bag. <S> It makes the whole trip more enjoyable, you are free to move around, your back gets relief and the bike carries the weight and you'll be quicker!. <A> Panniers are a great idea. <S> Having the weight off your back will give you more stability. <S> Flat bars are nice but not required. <S> If your road setup has C-drops, just ride with your hands on the hoods. <S> Check into an adjustable stem. <S> This will allow you to position it as you like. <S> Since this will be a commuter, the extra weight of an adjustable stem is of less concern. <S> Check into bigger tires. <S> This is pretty low cost and will add a) better traction and control and b) better wear protection from unknowns in the road or hopping a curb. <S> Reiterating other posters, core strength is key for many reasons. <S> Shortening your distance from the saddle to the bars can help with back stiffness but getting your core fitness up is the best approach. <A> Also, a lot of bike stems can be flipped. <S> This increases the height of your handle bars and should keep you from having to bend over as much. <A>
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Remember that any changes you make to the stack and reach of your handle bars may require you to make other adjustments to your seat and seat post. Another thing to try is some back/core strengthening exercises. You may find that you have some spacers on the steerer tube above your stem that you can move below it to raise the bar height for free. I'd also recommend that you get a set of full wrap fenders so you can keep the road spray to a minimum.
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What headset/radio products exist for bike-to-bike communication? I commute to work by bike, sometimes I share the journey with a co-worker. The problem is because of the wind and distance between the bikes, it's very hard to hear what the other person says. It would be great to have some kind of hands-free radio headset to communicate while riding. For example, one solution might be a bluetooth headset, like the ones used with mobile phones, coupled with some kind of mobile phone or radio. The best I could find were wired units meant for two people sharing one motorbike. The radio based units I found were again for motorbikes and also seemed very expensive. Do units like this exist for cyclists? <Q> Years ago, when my wife and I started riding together, we got a pair of cheap two-way-radios, with headsets that included VOX . <S> This allowed us to talk even when we weren't riding side-by-side. <S> And since we weren't trying to talk from a mile away, it didn't matter how cheap the radios were. <S> Of course, this requires you coordinate with your co-worker, both have radios set up and tuned to the same frequency. <A> Most bluetooth accessories (like headsets) expect to pair up with something smarter, like a cellphone or computer. <S> One simple alternative would be to each use a bluetooth headset and cell phone. <S> Start a call at the beginning of the ride and stay connected until you finish or part ways. <S> You will ideally need a cell plan that allows unlimited calling to a specific number (your cycling partner's) or else plenty of minutes. <A> Maybe a ski walkie talkie would do the job? <S> For an example check out the ligo Buying Guide . <A> The Cardo BK-1 is a new product and first of its kind on the market, Bike to Bike intercom and Bluetooth connection to phone/MP3 player, from the makers of the scala-rider Motorcycle communications systems. <S> Coming soon according to their website. <S> http://www.cardosystems.com/cardo-bk/cardo-bk-1 <S> The BK-1 product line has been acquired by Terrano, LCC. <S> and will from now on be marketed under the Terrano-X label. <S> See http://terranosystems.com/ http://terranosystems.com/ <A> This is a wireless system specially designed for cyclists and comes with a remote control on your handlebar. <S> The range is 500m between 2 riders and you can have up to 4 riders in a group with a range between the first and last rider of up to 1.5km! <S> battery life is 10hrs. <S> There is wind noise filtering and also an anti-panting feature - your friends cannot hear your panting but only when you talk! <A> Bluetooth tech is meant for short range use. <S> Under 10 meters if it's clear line of sight. <S> I'd suggest you get a retail level portable 2-way radio (FRS) and a headset with mic. <S> Class 1 = 100 meter Class 2 <S> = 10 meter Cards now <S> Terrano is class one. <A> I can recommend the Motorola T5522 radios with VOX (though PTT is more reliable). <S> Used to use them to co-ordinate at 24 hour races. <S> It's discontinued now, but similar systems can be had for around £25 or so. <A> They are a bit pricey, but the solution my wife has used for a number of years is Eartec's Simultalk 2.4Ghz radios. <S> Roughly $300 for the pair. <S> Advantages are small, lightweight, simple and very user friendly since it's like talking on the phone. <S> The disadvantage besides the cost, is that adding a 3rd rider is problematic. <A> Its a rough tough place on a bike. <S> I have used cheap PRS radios (UHF frequency) because they can be found for $30-$40 NZ used, they run off normal AA batteries, and earpiece/mike sets are $10 each. <S> I clip the radio onto my collar <S> so its up high enough for good signal, or on my belt and use the PTT mike on my collar. <S> Example radio <S> http://www.trademe.co.nz/955489690 <S> Example of earpiece http://www.trademe.co.nz/959138702 <S> Range is about a kilometre, more if its open space like a road. <S> VOX is a setting but I found it too sensitive. <S> They're not small nor light either, but at the price I won't cry for breaking one. <S> Finally - they're a standard transceiver rather than a proprietary pair, where one breaks and the other becomes useless.
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FRS/GMRS radios with VOX and a good headset that will fit under a bicycle helmet should be a more cost effective solution, but I suspect you might have to try a couple of radios and headsets combinations until you get a setup that works will for VOX and bike helmets. A radio with VOX adjustments would be highly desirable. There's a new product in the market which was just launched from VERTIX .
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How to weight pedals? I have some odd kind of track pedals on my bike. I believe they are clipless pedals; but for description, on one side they are flat and comfortable to pedal with. On the other side there is a raised hump in the middle that is a bit difficult to hop into the pedals quickly for fear of one's foot sliding off. They are comfortable enough to ride with once I am off and going (though I have become proficient with nipping the pedal with my toe to get it on the right side). However, I would like to weight the pedals so that they rest with the hump side down naturally. They are similar to these: Please bear in mind I have already accepted that buying new pedals are probably a best option generally. However, in the interest of modding: No suggestions are too ugly or odd as long as they work and bear in mind the problem of pedal strike (thanks @Teddy); I am looking for a pragmatic solution above all - hopefully not involving too much duct tape! <Q> The pedals you have are known as mountain bike clipless pedals. <S> They have a platform side where you can use normal sneakers/shoes to ride, and the other side with the "hump" is the clipless side. <S> There are special shoes with cleats on the bottom that attach to the pedals,and they're there to increase your pedaling capacity by allowing you to pull up on them as well as push down. <S> As for weighting the pedals I wouldn't know how as I don't have the pedals in my hand, but I'm sure that if you were to go to the hardware store with the pedals, you may be able to figure something out. <S> I'm sure that duct taping a weight to the "hump" side would solve your problem, but keep in mind that you are adding mass to the pedals, and it may make contact with the ground (aka pedal strike) during a sharper turn. <S> My suggestion is to go to your local bicycle shop and buy some platforms pedals so that you don't have to go through the trouble of modding your pedals, or have the issue of extra weight, or pedal strike. <S> And considering that cheaper platform pedals are around 15-30 dollars, I think it's a worthwhile investment as they'll be functional on both sides, without the trouble of fabricating a weight attachment. <A> You know how some pedals have reflectors attached to the front and back of the pedal? <S> Put a weight in the same position as the front reflector would be when the pedals are right-side-up. <S> That way, the pedal will normally rest with the front edge down, and you can place your foot on it with a slight backwards motion to be sure to stand on the good side. <S> Putting the weight at the front of the pedal lets the weight be smaller than if it was on the bottom of the pedal since it's further from the axis of rotation. <S> It won't decrease your ground clearance and it's less likely to get scraped off, too. <A> Just go buy a pair of pedals that suit... <S> that's by far the most sensible option. <A> I solved this problem. <S> My pedals were designed with metal toe clips. <S> For safety reasons I removed the metal clip and replaced them with soft strap toe clips I found at REI. <S> However, I found it annoying that the new toe clips were always pointed downward. <S> It took me several seconds while starting my ride to get my foot into the left toe clip. <S> I noticed that my pedals were weighted on the bottom side with two metal weights. <S> This required some experimentation. <S> I found that a small test magnet would attach itself to the metal weight already on the pedal. <S> If your pedal doesn't have a part that will attract a magnet attach a fender washer. <S> I then used Magcraft <S> NSN0802 Rare Earth Magnets <S> that I bought from Amazon.com. <S> [broken link removed] <S> These magnetic disks are far stronger than normal magnets. <S> I bought a 0.2 x 1.2 x 6 inch steel support from Home Depot. <S> I needed about 1.5 ounces per pedal. <S> Using an accurate scale and some basic math, I determined the size of the steel support to cut off which was 1.4 inches. <S> I then attached my steel weight to the rare earth magnet. <S> I was able to fine tune the angle of the pedal by moving the steel weight higher or lower on one side of the pedal. <S> The weight needs to be attached below the center-line of the pedal on the side of the pedal which is pointed upward. <S> The lower the weight is attached the more affect if will have. <S> (The weight is a moment arm: weight x distance from the center-line). <S> Make sure the pedal shaft is well lubricated. <S> Spin <S> the pedal and the toe clip should always come to rest with the toe clip up. <S> You can then test ride the bicycle and the weights should stay put. <S> When you are happy with the pedal positions, I recommend attaching the weights permanently with J-B Weld (a steel reinforced epoxy) to both sides of the rare earth magnet.
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My goal was to add a weight to one of the bottom side weights of just the right weight to flip the pedal to normally sit with the toe clip on top. I determined the approximate weight that I needed by attaching some small spring clips.
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Are bananas still a good food to carry when cycling? I am very much an old school cyclist and I always carry a banana with me when I go on rides longer than an hour. In the past I have found them ideal - they easily fit in my jersey pockets, the wrapping is biodegradable (if I accidentally drop it when riding), high source of potassium to stop muscle cramp. Should I change my ways and ditch the bended yellow pill for a more modern fare? <Q> There is an interesting Q&A on independent.co.uk (though it dates from 1995) talking about bananas and tennis... <S> Q. Witnessing players at Wimbledon chomping their way through pounds of bananas between games prompts the question: who began this sporting food fad and are there sound nutritional reasons for the players' preference for bananas to other fruit or food. <S> In what other sports (leaving aside lunch and tea breaks in cricket) do the participants eat during the course of play? <S> A. <S> The sporting fad for bananas was started by sports nutritionists <S> such as myself. <S> Also, unlike most other forms of high-carbohydrate foods, it contains very little fat but is also high in fibre. <S> The combination of fibre with the banana's three natural sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels, <S> thus so many players at Wimbledon were seen eating bananas. <S> Bananas are also an excellent recovery food for replacing potassium lost in sweating , something most players must have been suffering from at this year's tournament. <S> - Jane Griffin, Consultant Nutritionist to the British Olympic Association, London SW17 <S> Sounds like it would be good for long bike rides as well. <A> Real food like bananas are better than processed food any day. <S> Don't ditch old school foods. <S> Remember when they said that margarine was better for you than butter? <S> 30 years later, they find out trans-fats are bad. <S> The banana stands the test of time. <S> Gel packs and bars won't. <S> Keep at it brother! <A> They are easier to carry than coconuts (although two of you could carry one on a line) <A> I'm not a nutrition expert, but I swear by bananas! <S> I have always had issues with cramps and bonking on long rides (over 50 miles). <S> I don't train a ton because I have young children, but I like doing the Palm Springs Century each year. <S> The way to prepare for this for me is to ride my usual 20 mile loop around town first twice, then 3 times, and yesterday I did 4 laps for a total of 80 miles. <S> I had 4 bananas, one each hour, along with 2 large water bottles and felt great! <S> I have tried the GU Packs, sports drinks, sugary chomp bites, and none of them seemed to work. <S> From now on, it's just electrolyte water from Trader Joe's and good old fashioned bananas! <A> In addition to the points made in other answers, I think bananas are good because you can stuff one down in no time at all. <S> Like, less than ten seconds. <S> I think that's handy when you're on the bike. <A> I took a banana on a race a couple months ago. <S> It went from nicely firm and yellow to bruised, squishy and messy in a couple hours. <S> I binned it in the end. <S> Plus the ratio of packaging to content is pretty high, unless you eat the skin or carry it peeled. <S> Possible replacements - dried banana chips may work. <S> I tend to buy three things from supermarket bulk bins, a chocolate or carob bite, a yoghourt based bite, and something mostly nut or grain based. <S> Don't forget your water though! <A> No one addressed the question of how long does it take for the banana to break down and work. <S> It can not be immediate. <S> I think two hours might be too long, but if the banana needs say 1.5 hours, you will need to eat something about one into your ride max before eating the banana for it to work 2.5 hours down the road. <S> To suggest gel and cliff bars don't work is also not right. <S> But you need the most important thing: water or Gatorade/water mix with the gels cliffs or the banana. <S> You need 80 grams of carbs per hour on a long ride, one banana wont cut it. <S> I like bananas but the fact that half the volume you throw away (the peel) makes this only a partial solution in my opinion.
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The banana is rich in carbohydrate - an important source of energy for athletes and has significantly higher levels than any other fruit.
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How fast do you need to be going to get an effective slipstream on a bike? How fast do you need to be going to get an effective slipstream on a bike? <Q> It depends. <S> I don't know of any scientific research to support an actual speed. <S> The main factors are the speed of the wind that you are riding in, and the size of your shield (i.e. the bunny in front who is giving you the wind break - the bigger the better) and how closely you follow. <S> In still conditions I find that even at about 24km/hr (15mph) I will notice after half an hour or so that I have not worked as hard had I been riding out the front. <S> Just try being out for a while at the same speed and you will feel the difference in your heart rate and muscle output. <S> The size of your shield also helps. <S> Being in a large bunch effectively increases the size of the shield, though it is not a linear increase, but rather a diminishing one. <S> That is, as you go from say two riders to 5 riders you get a fair increase in advantage , but going to 10 riders only gives you a small increase in advantage over 5 riders. <S> As you go faster the distance at which you get an advantage increases. <S> Of course the maximum advantage is obtained when you are within millimetres of the wheel in front, which is why track racers ride so close, but then you increase you risk to touching wheels and having a crash. <A> It is not necessarily how fast you go, but how closely you are following the person cycling in front of you. <S> The closer you follow, the more likely you are to trail in the wind they have helped part for you. <S> The effects of this feel greater the faster you and the other person is traveling. <S> The effectiveness of the slipstream is relative to the speed and distance you follow. <A> Even runners use the slipstream, and they run at a max of 12mph, but I have enjoyed drafting at considerably slower running speeds. <S> It also depends on the strength of the headwind. <S> And, as Teddy pointed out, the distance you are from the rider in front is important. <S> This is why runners can draft at relatively slower speeds, although for a skilled cyclist (e.g. one that rides rollers all winter) <S> you can ride just about as close as you could run next to someone. <S> Furthermore, unless you have a direct headwind, you should ride off to the leeward side. <S> For example, if the wind is coming from the right(left), your right(left) hand / shoulder / arm should be as close to the left(right) butt/thigh of the rider in front as you feel comfortable. <S> Put your head down and enjoy. <S> That is the place where you can hang on when the going gets tough. <S> But remember a golden rule - whoever's front hub is in the lead has the right of way (e.g. if you are drafting, you must yield).
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If there is a raging head wind then virtually any speed will find you having a noticeable advantage in the slipstream. The third factor of distance is not as important I feel, provider you are within one to two feet and are not going at top racing speeds.
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How to remove a crank arm with stripped threads? A friend called me up yesterday after a mis-adventure during his attempt at a bottom bracket overhaul. He stripped out the threads on the (left) crank arm while using a Park crank puller. In a pinch, we rented an automotive gear puller but could not get enough purchase for that to work. Any tips on this? Especially a way that will not ruin the crank arm. (I know, the crank arm is now ruined in terms of future removal, but in the meantime with a bottom bracket overhaul and without any further damage, it'll get him through another season's commute.) Update 12/31/2011 This question was asked over a year ago now, so problem solved at that time. Followed the advice by whatsisname and we got the crank arm to loosen by slowly riding around the block a few times. Once it was loose, we were able to finish the job using some strategic tapping with a padded dead blow hammer. Then replaced/rebuilt the entire crankset and bottom bracket. (The thing was trashed beyond the removal issues...) The recent additional answers may be of use to others who find themselves in a similar predicament. <Q> Your crank arm is trashed. <S> With the crank bolt removed, gently ride around a few miles, it should work itself loose enough that you can yank it off. <S> The crank arm typically goes into the garbage at that point however. <A> A similar idea to whatsisname 's: Use a rubber mallet to tap on both sides of the crank arm, alternating between the inside & outside, so as to work the arm loose. <S> The hits do not have to be brutal, but with enough force to get some movement happening so that the arm is loosened. <S> Put more force on inside face, since you are trying to take the arm off, and only a light tap on the outside face. <S> This method has the advantage of not having to get on the bike and risk an accident should the arm come off unexpectedly. <A> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/removal-of-cranks-with-damaged-threads-square-type-only http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Research-Crank-Arm-Thread-Chaser-TC-8-/110600007315?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c0462e93 <S> http://www.ehow.com/way_5865105_bicycle-crank-removal-stripped-threads.html Bicycle Research Crank Arm Thread Chaser, TC-8 <S> or: you can try a tool called the "Var #932" <A> I just heated the crank arm up with a butane torch, grabbed an aluminium drift, laid by bike across my knees, and gave the boss where the inner chainring bolts on a firm blow with a hammer using the drift. <S> Came off real easy. <A> If you know someone that works on automobiles ask if they have a tie rod remover. <S> It looks like a heavy duty tuning fork with tapered ends. <S> In the absence of one of these use two large screwdriver and wedge them between the crank arm and the bottom bracket,being careful not to damage the chainring. <S> Tap the screwdrivers or the tie rod tool just hard enough to exert some pressure. <S> If it doesn't pop off try to warm the crank arm with a heat gun or a hair dryer. <S> As it warms tap the scewdrivers to see if it moves. <S> You might want to apply some lubricant <S> just be careful of heat and combustable fluids. <S> Let it sit over night with the pressure applied and keep tapping the tool until it releases. <S> The shock from the moving hammer distorts the crank arm hole while holding the second hammer stabilizes the shaft. <S> This seems like it involves some complicated positioning and may be easier with two people until you get the hang of it <A> I've just been through this in a restoration I'm doing. <S> I have a decently equipped shop <S> so some people might have to find a friendly mechanic... <S> The Park tool simply pulled the threads right out of the crank. <S> I've not had that problem before <S> so I know it's not me. <S> I have often suspected that the Park tool is very slightly undersized, so this did not inspire my confidence. <S> I tried heat (MAP gas, don't use oxyacetylene, it will melt the crank), various solvents/releasing fluids, riding the bike without bolts up steep hills, tapping with hammers on the sides etc... all to no avail. <S> Finally before giving up and cutting the damned things off, I took it to my friendly bike shop where their profession-grade tool was able to dig into the remaining threadforms and just barefly get the drive side crank off...but not the other. <S> From here I could disassemble the bottom bracket and used a 12 ton press to push the axle out of the right crank arm. <S> The taper LOOKS OK, but before re-installing, I'm setting up to bore out the crank arms and push in a steel threaded insert. <S> I'm going to try retaining the insert with just friction and Locktite Green (671) <S> but it may need to be peened. <S> Doing it this way shouldn't weaken the crank arm and will provide steel threads to pull against next time.... <S> Not the answer for everybody, and it may be too costly to hire a machinest. <S> Even with the tools and ability, it would probably be cheaper on some scale to just buy a new crankset, but then why replace when I can fix it? <A> Thought: <S> Go to a building supply place and get a bundle of tapered shims. <S> Probably the plastic ones would be best. <S> Insert four shims, in pairs, with opposing tapers, one pair on each side of the crank shaft. <S> Tap the shims in tighter and tighter until the arm pops off (or <S> the bearing cup pops off, whichever occurs first).
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Otherwise many shops have basically a slightly larger crank puller for addressing this issue, where they chase out a larger set of threads, then use the larger puller to get it off. The idea is to heat and expand the crank arm but not the shaft. You can also try to tap the arm with a ballpeen hammer while holding a second hammer 180 degrees opposite.
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What should I look for in a "trailer bike"/"tag-along" bike for a child? My daughter is growing fast, and will soon be too big for the child seat that is on the back of my bike. She is not yet ready to ride on the road, so I am thinking of purchasing a "tag-along" bike. What features should I look for, and are there anything to look out for? <Q> Most of of trailer-bikes are pretty similar: <S> One speed. <S> An inexperienced child will struggle to keep up when you pick up speed. <S> She will also not be able to help much on the steep climbs. <S> No brakes. <S> Your hands do a lot of work, and your stopping distance is longer. <S> BMX-style handlebar that can rock back and forth, as child size/shape changes Attaches to tractor-bike's seat post. <S> When you turn left, the trailer will lean right. <S> Flexy. <S> As your kid gets heavier, this can make slowly climbing a steep hill really hard. <S> You can't go straight. <S> I found that it was really good for teaching my son how to pedal, and build the appropriate muscles, so he was at an advantage on his own bike. <S> The flex was not an issue when we started, but a couple years later I had to retire the trailer. <S> I couldn't track a straight line up a hill. <S> Some models have 5 speeds. <S> That's more complexity, but if it breaks you can still get home. <S> It can help a kid learn about shifting. <S> The Burley Piccolo attaches to a special rack, making it lean properly in turns and supposedly reducing flex. <S> I used to hitch on a standard 2-wheel trailer to my tandem-trailer, either to carry groceries or to pull my baby twins. <S> We had 5 wheels, 4 people, were 16' long, and weight 400+ lbs. <S> I had to take corners carefully. <A> I know that it does not answer your question directly, but there is an alternative to the trailer bike that you could consider as well. <S> It is bicycle tow bar. <S> The one that is available on the market is Trail-Gator . <S> They can be bought for under £45 from amazon Photo from www.trail-gator.com <S> It works reasonably well <S> , it is not that stable as a good quality trailer bike but works pretty well for shorter journeys. <S> I personally find it ideal as I would be cycling mostly on the quiet roads or in parks, where my daughter would be cycling on her own, but to get there we need to cycle on a busy road and that is where I would have her bike attached to the tow bar. <S> If you decide to buy it make sure you fit it tight and check it after first and probably each ride to make sure that it does not get loose, but that probably applies to any type of trailer bike as well. <S> Also the child bike mount (Receiver Kit) is a bit rough so if you daughter bike has an aluminium frame, make sure to put some padding between the mount and the frame <S> (I used an old slick tyre) to avoid any damage to the frame. <S> PS. <S> Here is a link to a shop in Australia <A> The problems with tag-alongs are listed in Jay's response. <S> I think the WEEHOO is hella cool. <S> It's similar in function to the tag-along trailer that you mentioned, but the child's position is RECUMBENT. <S> The child sits lower on a WeeHoo than on other tag-alongs which is better for balance. <S> There are pedals so the kid can feel like he/ <S> she's helping. <S> If the little one gets tired of pedalling, they can sit back and fall asleep! <S> It's great for little kids. <S> Our LBS carries this. <S> It is also on the web at http://www.weehoobicycletrailer.com/ . <A> There is also a Trail Angel (site available in English too). <S> They are also available on Amazon for around £45 .It <S> contains the "receiver kit" and "sit post kit" for quick mount (as Trail Gator). <S> Extra advantages are: <S> It is more robust construction <S> You can adjust the height of the front wheel of the kid's bike.
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Tag-along trailers are nice because they allow your child to PARTICIPATE in what we all know is a great experience--a bike ride. "extra fork" when folded can be secured against "rear fork" of the bigger bike
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Why/How should I bed in disc brake pads? Why should I bed in my disc brake pads and what's the best way to do it? <Q> Bedding in brakes removes any glaze from your new pads, and any contamination from your disc rotors. <S> It also transfers material from the pads onto the rotors, which helps them work together. <S> It's essential to get the optimum performance from your brakes when you change pads. <S> Follow these steps: <S> Clean your rotors <S> - you don't want them to transfer any grease andgrime to your new pads. <S> You can buy dedicated brake cleaner. <S> Fit the new pads and find a place where you can build up a bit of speed. <S> A hill is helpful for this. <S> Build up some speed and then brake to a gradual halt. <S> Repeat a few times. <S> That's probably all you need to do. <S> However some people, myself included, like to pour water over the hot brakes. <S> I'm not sure this actually improves anything <S> but even if it doesn't it sizzles and steams, which is pretty cool <A> The reason you need to bed in your pads is so that they contact the disc rotor evenly. <S> Even if you think you've set them up perfectly, the rotor and the pad are very hard and when you apply the brakes initially there is not going to be completely even contact between pad and rotor. <S> By bedding them in, you're effectively wearing away the top layer of the disc rotor <S> so you get completely even contact. <S> To do this you simply need to brake hard, generating heat and wear. <S> I find sprinting down the road and put the front brakes on hard, whilst keeping my weight well back to prevent an embarrassing endo, works well. <S> For the rear I again sprint off but then apply it steadily and firmly, also with weight well back and just enough pressure to brake hard without skidding. <S> It helps if you're on a really grippy surface like tarmac. <A> Bedding in is a term applied to most metallic braking devices. <S> Pads and rotors/discs wear at different rates and can end up slightly grooved depending on the natural variations in the pad/disc materials. <S> when replacing one or the other or both items you need to bed them in to ensure that both surfaces conform to each other. <S> Too light pressure and you could "glaze" the pad <S> - i.e. turn it too hard and polished to effectively brake, too hard and you could damage the rotor or pad by scoring its surface or worse. <A> The reason for bedding them in is to get the proper performance and lifetime out of them that they were designed for. <S> The process should be specified by the manufacturer. <A> The how has been described already: repeated brakes to near stop from some speed to put heat into pads. <S> Try to avoid holding the brake after you've come to a full stop to avoid uneven transfer of pad material. <S> I think the why hasn't been fully covered yet, aside from the fact bedding in transfers some pad material to the rotors/discs. <S> But the reason this is important is that most of the stopping power comes from adhesion rather than friction. <S> Brand new pads have only friction between hard pad and steel rotor. <S> Friction alone - as you'll know if you've ridden on new pads - doesn't slow you very effectively. <S> Adhesive friction between the pads and rotor, particularly with sintered pads, is much more powerful. <S> Imagine the pad sticking like glue to the pad material on the rotor. <S> As the rotor passes through the pads it smears material from the pads, rather than grinding the rotor down. <S> Adhesive friction is also used in tyre technology, particularly for performance tyres. <S> I have a picture from a recent track day where I was able to stick a screwdriver to the side of the tyre on my motorbike. <S> The tyres were literally sticky to the touch when they hit their operating temperature. <S> The same thing happens to your brake pads when they hit operating temperature. <S> So when bedding in you're just getting them hot enough to smear a coating on the rotor, ready for you to take advantage of adhesive friction the next time you get them to operating temperature. <A> Yes, you will need to do a series of brake applications to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk. <S> What your essentially doing here is cooking your pad so that the rotor will have pad material transferred to it. <S> Also, your also making sure the pad is mature enough to be used for those big hills. <S> If you want to know what a rotor looks like when you do this wrong, then check this car website out: http://www.cquence.net/blog/brake_pads_and_install_guidelines/
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The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly. It will vary based on the pad's materials/design.
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How can I be visible in the dark when I'm signalling a turn? My bike and I are fairly visible at night--white light in front, red light in the back, bright yellow fenders, reflective tabs and a light on my helmet. I use hand signals to alert motorists when I'm turning... but I don't think they can see my hands in the dark. Is there anything different I should do when I'm signalling a turn in an unlit place? <Q> I should imagine you should be looking for some reflective gloves. <S> Or even some glo glovesCheck these out as an example ... <S> http://lifehacker.com/395978/glo-gloves-reflective-cycling-gear <A> Putting reflective bands on your sleeves can help make your movements visible. <S> They don't need to be attached permanently: a second pair of trouser clips works very well when strapped around your cuffs, or possibly the cuffs of your gloves if you're wearing big winter gloves. <S> Something like Ron Hill snap bands <S> (there are lots of equivalent products with different names) are very visible, take up next to no space when you're off the bike, don't encumber your wrists or get uncomfortable, and take only a few seconds to put on when you set off. <S> You might even find your local road safety organization gives away bands like these at events, so they don't have to cost anything. <S> Wearing reflective (or at least brightly coloured) <S> gloves is also pretty good. <S> Other than that it's all about being extremely cautious. <A> Similar to the LED gloves, you can always make a signaling jacket . <S> I bet I know a few of our friends that would be totally down helping with that <S> ;) <A> I did a project to add electronic Arduino turn signals, brake lights, speedometer, and odometer to my bike. <S> You can check out my project here: http://jdeboi.com/pimpmybike/ <A> I have a pair of these from Sierra Trading Post: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/north-american-trading-soft-deerskin-gloves-reflective-strip-for-men-and-women~p~4617m/ <S> The reflective strip is wide and works as advertised. <S> If you're biking in cold weather (I'm a Sconnie, so "cold" to me <S> is "25F or below") <S> , I recommend glove liners and/or wristbands; these gloves are a bit drafty. <A> This problem is easily solved. <S> Just buy some pants cuff protectors ( the kind that keep you pant leg from getting into the chain ), get the ones that have reflective material sewn on them <S> and you can just use these around your arm at night. <S> Any light from a cars headlights in either diredction should light up the reflecting material. <S> Probably cost less than $5 if you want a pair. <S> Most of them are either velcro or elastic for a custom fit. <S> They can be used in all seasons, with a jacket or bare arms. <A> I wear cheap white cotton gardening gloves on my hands, while biking - they started white and are now a light grey from oil and exhaust fumes. <S> Only cost $2 at the local hardware store. <S> The other thing is to look for full arm length high-vis jackets or overvests with reflective piping on the arm. <S> Orange is considered better than grellow for night-time visibility. <S> And ride like they haven't seen you, because they probably haven't. <A> There are also some (I think experimental) lights with turn signals for bikes. <S> For example, I once saw an ad for these Lights: <S> http://www.bicygnals.com/indicators.php <S> A wide front and rear light, both are wirelessly connected together, with yellow lights at the side. <S> One minus point I see for the front light is that it might take up all space on your cockpit, but it seems a pretty reasonable but a little high effort way to go. <A> Visijax make a high-visibility cycling jacket that also includes battery-powered indicators. <S> It may be the way to go, at least in winter, if you don't mind looking like a bit of a prat. <S> http://visijax.com/
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Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful.
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Night Riding With Heavy Traffic I live in a fairly urban setting and there are plenty of cars around when it gets past dark. The main point of having a bicycle light/backlight (I contend) is not for you to see, its for others to see you. Besides just using lights, there are plenty of other reflective Doohickeys that purport to make you visible at night. (see this thread for an example) In practice this works just fine in relatively suburban or lightly trafficked areas. Where an extra light on the road does stand out and people notice a bike rider. However, I live in a fairly urban area, and down-town is saturated with light that a dincky bike light will not stand out in the crowd. I've experienced this both from the POV of a driver and of a cyclist. Just today I was driving downtown and almost hit a biker with the notorious right hook. Luckily we didn't make any contact, but afterwards I recognized why I didn't notice him even though he was wearing a reflective vest and had a decently bright light. His light made him blend in more with the backdrop of downtown. The oversaturated lighting of downtown desensitized me to certain visual cues that usually would tip me off to the presence of a biker or a car (i.e. their glaring lights in my mirrors). If I was driving down a darkish residential street I would have noticed him right away. So what are some good tips on biking at night in urbanized areas, where there are more than just a few cars out after dusk. More specifically, what can you do (that you normally wouldn't do during the day) and besides making yourself brighter that would make your night ride safer? <Q> When winter arrives and brings shorter days, I add additional lights. <S> I prefer a light with an erratic blink pattern, such as Planet Bike's BLAZE with superflash mode (http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3047.html). <S> This erratic pattern forces you to the forefront of attention. <S> Lights and reflectors are essential but are not the whole answer. <S> I ride at night to be right where the motorists can see me. <S> It is always important to do this, but more so at night. <S> When there is no bike lane and no wide shoulder, I take the MIDDLE of the lane. <S> This is particularly important in an urban setting like Oakland or Sacramento, CA--where I ride. <S> Traffic in the city is heavy and often not much faster than I am. <S> Often cars are maxxing out at 25mph whereas I'm riding at around 15-18mph. <S> I can ride in the middle of the lane and if they're anxious, they can pass me. <S> The downside of this is that I hear a few drivers sounding their horns in protest. <S> The upside is that no one is surprised by me. <S> No driver wants to damage their $20,000+ automobile by hitting a cyclist. <S> I'm a big guy, too--I'd damage their car. <S> So I ride right where they see me. <S> Most places where I ride are urban city streets--usually with two lanes in each direction, sometimes a left-turn lane. <S> I use all of these just as a motorist would--and California state law supports me in doing this. <S> My goal and the goal of the law here are to be visible and predictable. <S> I ride like I belong there--without trying to be a jerk about it. <S> The motorists have a passing lane to get around me--and if they don't, I let them pass whenever it's safe and with easily-recognizable hand signals. <S> If they're right behind you, after all, you have their attention. <S> Be both visible AND predictable. <S> Have good situational awareness <S> --know what's going on all around--and react to motorists who may not be doing the same. <S> Have a safe ride! <A> Besides the brightness? <S> "The cyclist must always be on the lookout for idiots, cell phone users, dreamers, jerks, and bigots. <S> The cyclist has excellent visibility and can see everything. <S> To that must be added an instant readiness to respond to bad moves, and I've had motorists make them all. <S> " <S> Quoted from: http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/traffic.htm <S> And one other tip: <S> Ride as if you were invisible <S> You're not trying to be invisible, you're trying to make it irrelevant whether cars see you or not. <S> I frequently ride after dark. <S> The number one thing that has saved me in close calls is alertness. <A> I live in Minneapolis and ride around in the city regularly. <S> I have a planet bike superflash tail light. <S> I haven't had any issues (relative to biking in the daytime). <S> Reflectors alone are nearly as bad as nothing. <S> Blinky lights are good though because very few things fiercely blink, in the city or in the country. <S> I feel far more comfortable between lanes of cars in the city than out in the suburbs where people only encounter "one of those people" every few months. <A> I cycled loads in the UK in cycle unfriendly cities. <S> I think it comes down to: Lots of good lights <S> Hivis Jacket <S> Helmet Be completely predictable. <S> Take the safe route. <S> Now live in the Netherlands <S> , wow that is a different experience.
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As you say, this is just more urban lights, but a bike light--especially if it is blinking--does make you more visible. At night in urban traffic, I seriously ramp up alertness . .It's often helpful to ride in such a way that motorists won't hit you even if they don't see you. Also, drivers in the city typically are more accustomed to the presence of cyclists. Expect others (Cars and other cyclists) to be completely unpredictable.
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What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets? Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection? <Q> No, usually expensive helmets are lighter and more comfortable because have more ventilation. <S> So, if you plan to ride for long hours it's better to buy the more expensive helmet that you can afford, otherwise - for short rides - a cheap helmet will do the job. <A> The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute did a impact test of two sets of helmets. <S> One of them cheap (US$20.00) the other expensive (US$200.00). <S> The results are clear: there's no difference. <S> Buy from a reputable brand. <S> Just check: <S> If it has the U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION (CPSC) label If it is confortable in your head <S> (you'll use it more) <S> BTW, they give nice and reasonable tips : "Beware of gimmicks. <S> You want a smoothly rounded outer shell, with no sharp ribs or snag points. <S> Excessive vents mean less foam contacting your head, which could concentrate force on one point. <S> " <S> Aero" helmets are not noticeably faster, and in a crash the "tail" could snag or knock the helmet aside. <S> Skinny straps are less comfortable. <S> Dark helmets are hard for motorists to see. <S> Rigid visors can snag or shatter in a fall. <S> Helmet standards do not address these problems--it's up to you!" <S> Their site is really informative. <S> It's worth to spend half an hour browsing it. <A> There is actually some misinformation here. <S> It is true that both cheap and expensive helmets must conform with CE-certifications and EU-regulations etc. <S> but the Swedish insurance company Folksam did a more comprehensive test of bicycle helmets. <S> While the best helmet was a relatively cheap one (if you don't consider the airbag helmet), there was a large difference between the amount of protection they each offered. <S> Here is a link to the test, but unfortunately it is in Swedish. <S> Google translate was not to keen to parse the link either. <A> Trust. <S> Of course the manufacturers trade on that, but would you trust a helmet that cost a meagre amount? <S> I wear a helmet because when I race I have to and when I commute I'm under personal pressure to wear one. <S> (To be fair I did recently have a crash and my forehead would have looked worse <S> had I not been wearing one <S> - it at least protected me from a longer cut.) <S> Personally I spent more money because I wanted light and comfortable, but I also figure that something that costs the same as a big lunch cannot have been designed, tested and built properly. <A> From the same manufacturer (or similar reputable) the safety is the same. <S> This years model costs more, mostly to make up for selling last years model at half price!The top end ranges do have better ventilation, more comfortable or more adjustable padding and straps and have a logo on the box that says they were endorsed by this years Tour de France winner (unless they have just been caught taking drugs) <S> Personally I buy last year's model from a reputable maker when the LBS has them on sale. <S> Since helmets need to be replaced every few years (the plastic degrades) I don't worry about how long a better quality helmet will last. <S> For me the padding and straps become horribly degraded from sweat long before the impact foam chemically degrades. <S> I also buy two helmets for summer use and alternate them so they at least have a chance to dry out. <S> Older ones get relegated to winter use with the padding removed when I wear a hat. <A> As long as it meets EU/US minimums, price does not make much of a difference safety-wise; a cheap helmet will do a fine job of protecting you: https://helmets.org/testbycost.htm <S> More money gives better ventilation, aerodynamics and comfort but you should question whether a shaped bit of plastic foam can justify a £200 price-tag or if you're just paying for the brand.
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The more expensive helmets are generally sculpted and designed to have more ventilation, be lighter, be more adjustable, be more comfortable, but ultimately, do you trust them to do the job.
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What should one eat while cycling? What should a bicyclist make sure to eat before and after riding a bike? <Q> <A> Chris's answer is good if you are planning for some serious training/ride. <S> IMHO, if you ride just a few Kms there's not even need for a particular diet, as long as it's mixed and well balanced. <S> I stick to such a regular diet for rides of 50 Km or less, otherwise some tuning (as described by Chris) is needed. <A> That depends on the type of ride, but generally something not too heavy with <S> Porridge, maybe with yogurt and stewed fruit, works really well for me. <S> After a ride, there's a 15 minute recovery window where you want to replace those carbs and also get some protein, so your body can replenish its energy reserves and rebuild muscle mass. <S> There are specialist recovery drinks that do this, but to be honest a milkshake made with semi or skimmed milk and not too much sugar is ideal. <A> I just consider the nature of the ride I plan to do. <S> And think of the time I'll be on the bike and the intensity of the ride. <S> A short commute, errand or casual ride. <S> Probably nothing more is needed other than normal balanced meals with a snack (energy bar, banana, fig bar, or whatever you prefer) in your pocket. <S> A long commute/errand or moderate fitness ride. <S> Preferably a meal 1 - 2 hours before the ride (60% Carbs, 20% Protein, 20% Fat); then a high carb snack 30 minutes before the workout (granola bar, banana, etc); after the ride a light meal/snack with a 4:1 carb/protein ratio within 2 hours. <S> High intensity fitness training/fitness rides such as interval training. <S> A meal and snack, as above, 1 - 2 hours and 30 minutes before; an energy/electrolyte drink during the workout; and a recovery meal/snack as above. <S> Very long rides where you'll be on the bike for several hours, such as centuries. <S> Same as the previous. <S> However during the ride, it pays to eat and hydrate throughout. <S> I find that I'm eating the equivalent of a high carb energy bar about every hour. <S> This is a rough answer as there are entire books on the subject of exercise nutrition. <S> A couple that I've found useful are by Chris Carmichael . <S> One is Food for Fitness and another <S> is The Time Crunched Cyclist . <A> The only thing to 'make sure' to eat is carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt, and water, in any form. <S> Here are some of my favorite snacks to eat while cycling- <S> as opposed to before/after; some make the list because they are ubiquitous at convenience stores (in order of quantity that I have consumed) <S> misc 'bar' peanut butter sandwich (banana and honey optional) <S> sandwich <S> bananas <S> equal parts soda:water (optimum osmotic pressure for sugar uptake as recommended by Greg Lemond, first line of defense when a bonk is coming on) peanuts <S> pop-tarts <S> Before/after long rides: pancakes with peanut butter oatmeal with fruits and nuts <S> big bowl of cereal eggs <S> protein shake burrito <S> shwarma <A> I love the honey stinger waffles. <S> It is like a 3-inch waffle with honey in the middle. <S> It is all natural, very tasty and fits very nicely into the seat bag or back pocket. <S> Only drawbacks are that they can be challenging at the moment to get into. <S> There is supposed to be new packaging this year (2011). <S> There also is no protein but on the ride itself that should not be a problem.
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Bananas and as I need at least 15 characters, don't forget to eat bananas during your ride as well. plenty of complex carbs is good before a long ride. You want something that is going to release plenty of energy over the course of the ride. "a rare steak is a good breakfast for what lies ahead" "A Sunday in Hell" Roger de Vlaeminck eating a pre-race meal at 15:09 (make sure to cut small pieces and chew well!)
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How do I use the plastic backing on patches? It seems that the patches I buy for fixing inner tubes come in one of 2 types. Both have metal foil on the stick-to-tube side. One has paper on the other side, the other plastic. With the paper ones I can peel off the foil, glue them down, wait a minute, then split the paper from the centre and tear it off. I can't do this with the plastic backing - any attempt to remove it seems to lift the edges. Am I supposed to leave the plastic on, remove it before I glue the patch, or what? <Q> The Rema <S> Tip-Top patches that I use--which sound similar to those which the questioner describes--come with instructions in each plastic box. <S> The package that I have shows the instructions pictorally in seven steps. <S> Here is the product that I use: <S> http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-79002.html <S> In step 7, the manufacturer distinctly recommends that the user remove the plastic backing. <S> I usually remove this cellophane backing myself. <S> It sometimes is a little finnicky--if your patch isn't totally set it will seem to pull up the patch. <S> Just use your thumb to set the patch more carefully. <S> In the package's Step 6, the manufacturer uses a totally unidentifiable rectagular object to smooth out the patch before removing the cellophane. <S> I use my thumb, personally, and it works just fine. <S> If one side of the cellophane won't seem to come off without removing the patch, you didn't put down enough vulcanizing fluid. <S> Try the other side. <S> If the patch is reasonably centered, this shouldn't be a problem. <S> The answer about leaching chemicals is news to me--though I admit freely that I never looked farther than the instructions in the box for advice. <S> Once in a moment of frustration, I left the cellophane on and put it into the tire--no problems so far. <S> I had some concern there would be a problem if the cellophane were stuck between the rim and the bead but this doesn't seem to have been a problem for Anthony K or Darren Cope. <S> It looks as though it doesn't matter, but the manufacturer of Rema patches recommends removing it. <S> I say remove it carefully. <S> This is best done if you are generous with the vulcanizing fluid and careful to press the patch into place. <A> I followed the advice of leaving the plastic film on. <S> After a few days the tire went flat again. <S> Inspection revealed that the tube was puckered around the patch because the plastic film does not stretch in the same way as the tube and the patch. <S> The new leak was coming from under the patch. <S> Therefore from now on I am going to try to take the plastic off. <A> If the edges are lifting when you're removing the plastic, that is a strong indicator that the glue you used is not of a pedigree suitable for this type of repair. <S> The adhesive is not melting into the rubber and not vulcanizing, but only providing a superficial tack, like the back of a scotch tape. <S> The edges will stick quite well to the inner tube if the glue is good. <S> However, even if the adhesive is good, to avoid "tempting fate" <S> , what I do is peel the plastic backing from the centre out. <S> When the patch has set (I give it 12-24 hours, clamping the tube between two wooden blocks with a wood clamp), I then peel the plastic backing from its center cut out toward the edges. <S> That direction reduces the tendency to lift. <S> Another important aspect is that there must be a decent amount of glue there all the way to the edges of the patch, and at least a millimeter beyond. <S> When I'm applying the patch, I wiggle it around in a circular motion to get the glue spread to a slightly larger area than the patch, but still mostly within the limits of the plastic backing sheet (to avoid adhesion to the clamping blocks, and an overall tidy job). <S> At "peel time", you notice a big difference between the behavior of cheap rubber cement and proper tube repair contact cement: with the good adhesive, the extra glue squeezed out of the patch, caught between the plastic backing and the tube, is almost completely tack-free and releases the plastic backing easily. <S> The poor type of adhesive remains more of a sticky, gooey mess, indicating a product that is for temporary paste-up jobs that allow repositioning. <S> If your glue is like that, of course the edges lift, because in fact the whole patch will lift easily. <A> You should leave the plastic backing on, and the paper ones as well. <S> The backing stops chemicals from the patch and glue working their way into the tire at the location directly in contact with the patch. <S> I do not know if this leaching weakens the tire at all, but in many cases it will cause a dark "patch" to appear on the tire sidewall after an amount of time, which can look unsightly. <S> After a long period of time (months) the plastic and paper will disintegrate by themselves so you don't have to worry about removing them. <A> I've learnt the hard way over 30 years of applying patches to inner tubes and I'm still not convinced I can get it right each time. <S> One of the problems with new tubes being manufactured in Asia is that the production process leaves ridges along the length of the inner tube. <S> These can comprise the patch and so should be reduced as far as possible when roughing up the tube before applying the rubber glue. <S> Incidentally don't be in a rush to apply the patch over the glue as the curing process can take between 2 to 5 minutes depending on temperature. <S> Also leaving the repaired tube 24 hours before reuse is a very good idea. <S> As for the cellophane or clear plastic film, it must be removed to ensure the patch sits properly inside tyre. <S> Save the environment (and some money !!) <S> ......patch your inner tubes and if they can't be patched because the valve has pulled out they can still be used for many other applications such as bungee straps washers, lagging etc...
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Peeling from the centre of the patch seems to be the best way to remove the film but this will require cutting an "X" in the centre............... Before even gluing the patch on, I score a small X crosshatch cut in the center of the plastic backing with a sharp tool (but gently, without damaging the patch, obviously).
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Do I need to buy a special stand for my front wheel when using my turbo trainer? I have seen available special "stands" (please tell me the correct terminology) to be placed under the front wheel when using a turbo trainer. I normally just put a copy of the phone directory down on the floor, opened in the middle to hold the wheel in place. Should I lash out and buy one of the specialised devices? <Q> A nice advantage of the specialized stand is that it will keep your front wheel pointed front. <S> So you won't have to expend energy keeping it that way. <S> A brick or telephone directory (or anything that's just level and the right height) won't do that. <S> A piece of wooden plank will, after you hack away at it with an axe a few times right in the middle. <S> If you're looking to save $20 <S> it's the perfect solution. <A> However, I occasionally forget to use it <S> and it really doesn't seem to matter either way. <S> Since I have it, I try to remember to use it, but if I didn't have it, I wouldn't bother to buy one. <A> If you're anything like me, sooner or later your directory is going to be a pile of paper/sweat mush. <S> But until then this seems like a good hack provided the height is right and the wheel secure. <A> I always found a house brick to be the perfect height and obviously nice and solid (and unaffected by sweat!)
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My trainer came with the appropriate front stand.
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How do you know when you need to add more air in the tires? How much air is too little and you should add more for the safety and ease of your bike ride? <Q> Look on the sidewalls of your tires, and you should see a recommended pressure range. <S> If your tires are outside that range, you need more air. <S> The lower end of the pressure range is good for soft ground like dirt or gravel or snow, where you need more traction; the higher end is best for roads, and will help you avoid pinch flats . <A> The short answer is: it depends on the tires. <S> If the air pressure is lower, there is more contact between the ground and the tire. <S> This has the advantage of more grip (especially in rainy and/or icy conditions this can be nice), but the disadvantage of more resistance, making the cycling harder. <S> If the air pressure is higher, the advantage is making it easier, but the disadvantage is less grip. <S> In addition, if the pressure is low, the wheel can damage the tire, if the pressure is high, the ground can damage the tire. <S> In general the thin tires (such as on racing bikes) do require higher pressure then wide tires (such as on mountain bikes). <S> If you see the bottom of the wheel as cutting in to the side of the tire, then the pressure is definitely too low. <A> Other looking at the sidewall, here are some clues that I use: If the rim hits the edge of a pothole or uneven sidewalk when you go over it. <S> Learn the relationship between the feel at the thumb and the amount of pressure in the tire For a given tire, too low can depend on what you want out of the tire and the conditions that you expect to ride in. <A> Simple answer is, they always need more air. <S> Tires leak, slowly, but they all leak. <S> If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride. <A> There are 2 ways to determine this. <S> One is to use an air pressure gauge. <S> The other is to squeeze the tire with your fingers. <S> Like Neilfein says above, first check the inflation specs on your tires. <S> Roughly.... <S> Mountain bike tires = 35 - 65 psi Commuter bike tires = <S> 75 - 100 psi Road bike tires = <S> 100 - 120 psi <S> Ok, so here's something you can do. <S> Using a pressure gauge, pump up your tires to the max pressure. <S> Then, using your fingers, see how that feels. <S> Now, let the air out, and pump up to the min pressure, and see how that feels. <S> Also, do the same with a middle pressure. <S> Now you have a range. <S> And of course, you can always use a gauge to check the pressure before each and every ride. <S> For casual short rides I just squeeze the tires. <S> And it works. <S> Beyond that, I get out the pump and top them off.
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If you find it difficult to hold your line in a turn because your tires are not firm enough (in extreme cases the tire will roll off), you should increase the pressure. Once you are familiar with how that pressure range feels, you can either head off for your ride or add air. If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days.
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Is a "run-bike" equivalent to a bmx bike with no drivetrain? My son is about to turn two and he really likes the Skuut Balance Bike , but is this functionally any different than a small Bmx bike with no drivetrain? Update Specifically, is a run-bike designed to be easier to balance (e.g. by changing the distribution of weight relative to a bmx bike)? by the way, I was thinking of bmx-style of equivalent size, not a true 20" bmx bike– Since my original post, I have found that this type of bike is called a 'run-bike' and that they are made by multiple companies. However, I have never seen one in a regular bike shop. Knowing the generic name, it was easy to find the wikipedia site and answer my own question 'no'. But I am still open to the possibility that there are differences. I have found a related but distinct question on the best method to teach a child to ride a bike Update 2 My son received a Kinderbike for his birthday. I decided on the kinderbike based on this NYtimes article and some Amazon reviews that suggested that the Kinderbike is of better quality than the Skuut. Review Indeed the Kinderbike uses 'real' (if cheap but sufficient) bike parts, including a real brake and headset. It even comes with a bell! I don't want to talk up the quality too much - while certainly better than what you might find at a box-store like Walmart (those bikes are often non-serviceable), but nothing like what you might find on an entry level adult bike. Out of the box, the rims were out of true, the headset was on too tight, and the tires smell like plastic fumes. But this is all fixable since the components are basically like a regular bike. The Skuut, on the other hand, apparently has plastic washers and cheap tires that make the bike overall not as durable. Although I prefer the aesthetics of a wooden bike, common sense chose durability. <Q> Are you thinking to get a small BMX and take the drive train off instead of getting a run bike, so you can put the drive train back on when he's ready? <S> Otherwise I don't quite understand the purpose of the question, sorry. <S> If that is you're idea <S> I'd suggest that's probably not a good idea. <S> It's going to be difficult to find a BMX small enough for a two year old to easily put their feet down and run, and you're paying for extra components (chain, cranks, pedals, brakes) that you don't need. <S> Unlike an adult bike those components aren't likely to be easily removeable, and it's likely to be a lot heavier and more clumsy for your son to use. <S> A run bike is going to be focused on what is most important at that age - teaching balance - and everyone <S> I know who has had one has enthused about how easily their child was able to transition to a bike with a drive train after having a run bike. <S> Also, because they tend to be quite well made and not abused, there's a healthy market in them on ebay, so you should be able to sell it relatively easily when it's time for the first proper bike. <A> You can use a kids bike without the drive train. <S> Specialized Hotrock 12" without a drive train works. <S> The Specialized Hotwalk was small for my son. <S> By removing the pedals etc and lowering the seat to the min it worked well. <S> Downside, it cost $160. <S> Upside, I can put the pedals back on. <A> But it is possible that some models have specific advantages, e.g. related to geometry, weight distribution, or handling
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The answer is 'yes', given that a 'run bike' is defined by wikipedia as any bike without a drivetrain or training wheels.
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Will a bicycle trailer damage my (steel) bicycle? I have a rhode gear trailer with a 100 lb capacity, similar to the burley and other brands, that attaches to the left chainstay (see image of hitch below). I currently have it attached to my heavy-duty commuter, and I am not concerned with any adverse effects that it might have. However, I am having so much fun with it that I would also like to attach it to my road bike, which has a steel frame built for racing. I accept that this can affect the paint, but I don't want to cause structural damage (e.g. bend or break) the frame. Should I be concerned? Thanks! <Q> These hitches don't work very well. <S> They don't grab tightly enough, so they can twist around the bar and bump in to the wheel. <S> As they twist they will take off the paint. <S> They also require a lot of turns to attach and remove. <S> I had two trailers with this kind of hitch, and 3 bikes to pull with. <S> I bought this Burley flex connector for each trailer: <S> I used this kind of hitch : <S> It works pretty well, but on one bike it's slippery, so the quick release lever can turn a little even when tight. <S> But not enough that it's going to make the wheel fall out. <S> Also, on one bike it bumps in to the QR, so I have to put it in just the right spot. <A> The "tongue weight" of such a trailer would probably be in the twenty-to-thirty pound range. <S> Just don't load this trailer--or any trailer--with all of the weight forward of the axle. <S> Minimize your tongue weight. <S> Remember we're talking about tubular steel on your bike which is some pretty strong stuff. <S> I wouldn't hang an automobile trailer on it or anything, but it can handle this little trailer. <S> Also. <S> How many times can you load a Rhode Gear trailer up with 100# and still have a trailer? <S> I think the trailer is the weak link in this equation. <S> Most often, you will use this trailer with maybe 40-50 <S> # max, right? <S> Even pulling it every day--not likely to cause much problem. <S> If you start a bicycle-based concrete business, go back to the commuter bike. <S> I ride a Sakae Ringyo Litage. <S> Thin aluminum tubing--road racing geometry--from the early 90's. <S> I pull a trailer with it from time to time--sometimes a Burley flatbed with a lawnmower onboard. <S> (Ususally, if I'm smart, I pull it with my Schwinn Tempo). <S> Someday that aluminum frame is going to break on me. <S> It isn't going to be the trailer's fault--it's going to be the 200# rider that causes it to break! <S> Your steel frame is going to be fine pulling that trailer for the trailer's entire natural life. <S> Ride on! <A> I have that exact hitch, and it is terrible. <S> My chainstay gets smaller further back, so the only way this clamps on right is when butted up against the seat stay. <S> There's only grip at one end, and the clamp rotates downwards over 10-20 km. <S> At that point its close to clipping the rear spokes, and only takes one good bump to fall right off. <S> As the clamp moved it scraped all the topcoat off the clamp area (admittedly my bike's paint job is sub-par too.) <S> I now stop and check it every 5-10 km, and I'm not putting kids in it until I change to a ball and hitch arrangement. <A> See: http://www.equinoxtrailers.com/store/browse/101 Fitting a hitch mount onto your seat stay, chain stay or a rack which is attached to the stays are good solutions. <S> The frame is weaker at the connections to the rear drop out. <S> There are instances of the frame breaking at this point when a trailer is connected to the rear hub.
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A trailer with a 100# capacity fully loaded over the axle is unlikely to cause significant damage to your bicycle frame--even using the attachment device shown for the Rhode Gear trailer, above.
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How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable? I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house. So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable? <Q> Riding in snow depends on a bunch of factors, so you won't really ever be able to know unless you just go for it and try it out. <S> What bike/wheels you have Should be obvious. <S> Mountain vs Road, 26" vs 29", wide vs skinny tires, etc <S> Your skill level in snow <S> The better and more comfortable you are in the snow is important. <S> I'd say its the most important factor apart from the bike. <S> While some have trouble steering in just an inches, others can handle nearly a foot or more. <S> Tracks in the snow <S> You mentioned fresh snow, but I'm going to include this as part of a general answer. <S> The difference between fresh snow and tracked snow is huge. <S> Tracked snow is vastly more difficult to bike in. <S> Consistency of snow <S> Lastly, fresh powdery snow is a lot easier to go through than wet solid stuff. <S> But powdery can be far worse if a hard icy surface lurks below the snow. <S> Bottom line: Just go out and ride through snow and see what you can handle, then ride through something a little tougher. <S> Best part is, the soft snow makes falling easier! <A> My experience from last winter was that I could keep moving through falling sticky snow up to about 6 <S> " = 15cm <S> but it took a great deal of effort, <S> even more so if your tyres end up cracking through frozen puddles under the snow. <S> There were sections where I had to pedal hard just to keep moving even down some normally fast downhill sections. <S> It's great fun - but maybe don't stray too far from home on your first outing. <A> Depends on how heavy it is and what you want to do. <S> For a light snow, below the hubs should be fine. <S> For heavier snows and slush, well, you have to worry more about losing control of the front wheel. <S> Fatter tires or a mountain bike are easier to ride in slush and snow. <S> If you want to test the limits go as fast as is safe 2.use <S> a big gear keep a light touch on the handlebars only brake when going in a straight line and only use the rear brake <S> A fixed gear is easier to control in these situations because of the direct control that you have over the rotation of the rear wheel. <A> I agree with the other answers, but think one subtle detail is important. <S> It depends on the type of snow. <S> Eskimos have 50 words for snow? <S> Well there really are different types. <S> Light and fluffy is easy. <S> There comes a point, where each forward motion is wasted as the wheel spins, while sinking down through the snow up ahead, till it hits the bottom where it can get traction. <S> That is very hard riding if it is possible at all. <S> I am not sure how to discuss the very different types of snow to really answer this question completely. <A> If you are talking about riding your bike on normal streets, then this might be helpfull. <S> I recently got lots of experience riding on various kinds of snow. <S> Here in Germany, the bicycle paths are cleared and sometimes salt is put on them so that you have various mixtures of mud and snow. <S> I find it easiest to ride on a road where no salt is put on and where the feet of the people made the snow essentially a flat hard surface. <S> Riding on that type of snow is possible even with temperatures below 10 Fahrenheit. <S> If you have snow about 5 inches deep and not yet a hard surface but lots of footsteps and bike traces, then it is difficult to ride. <S> You bump constantly into tiny snow hills, and you will drive in snake lines or fall off. <S> If you have salt on the road and it is no colder <S> than 20 Fahrenheit, then it is ok to ride in this snow-water mud. <S> It get much more difficult to ride if you go below 20 Fahrenheit <S> , then the mud freezes, even if you follow the path of other bikes. <A> On packed snow (IE from cars), my hybrid performs better than my mountain bike. <S> The narrower tires cut through and contact solid pavement underneath. <S> The bigger mountain bike tires can't cut through and end up floating on the surface. <S> The effect is like hydroplaning. <S> Very hard to steer, although I don't know the physics behind that.
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With just a few inches of solid snow and some criss-crossing tire tracks, it can be nearly impossible to ride at any significant speed. Deep and heavy gets to be problematic.
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What is the stopping force of your average road bike? Does anyone have any data on the stopping force of a modern road bike ? IE when a road biker slams on the brakes the force applied to the ground is x.xxx Newtons (or lbf). Another way to ask would be if anyone has any speed vs stopping distance vs rider weight data for road bikes. TO CLARIFY : I'm asking if anyone has a data set of numbers, I'm fully capable of going out and testing my own bike and doing the physics / math to obtain the information I need, but I'd just rather not do the testing. I would expect some deviation based on the kind of brakes and rims involved, but I would expect any modern road bike to have similar stopping force. <Q> I used this search to find that paper and some of the other results look relevant. <S> The number that springs to my mind is 0.3g, but that may be for cars. <S> Bicycling Science or Human Power are where I would go for well-researched answers. <S> Human Power doesn't seem to have anything, although it may just be missing from the index. <S> A great deal depends on the geometry of the bicycle, since that's the limiting factor (most bikes can throw the rider by overenthusiastic braking). <S> A little thought experiment might help. <S> Assume the CoG of the rider is in the hips, so about 10cm above the seat. <S> A line from there through the front contact patch will be roughly 45 degrees above horizontal (give or take, say 15 degrees), so an upper limit of 1g is likely. <S> To further Feynman it, 10m/s is 36km/hr, so 1g would stop you from 36km/hr in one second. <S> During which time you'd travel about 1/2at^2 or 5m (I cheated by making t=1). <S> One simple test would therefore to sprint to 35kph then hit the brakes at a marked point and see what your stopping distance is. <S> On reflection, 1G or 10m <S> /s/s sounds more plausible as an upper limit. <A> You can find out how to estimate this at wikihow ; given a starting speed of 20 mph and a stopping distance of 30 ft, they provide an estimate of 14.6 ft/s^2 which is equivalent to 4.5 m/s^2. <A> I'm going to guess that, with good tires and good brakes, if you slam on the brakes then you'll go over the handle bars. <S> If this is so <S> then the limiting parameter isn't the weight of the rider, but rather the location of the rider's centre of mass relative to the front tire, which is more or less independent of (constant with respect to) the rider's weight.
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Beck Forensics have figures (pdf), peaking at about 0.5g for a MTB on flat concrete.
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When are studded tires necessary? Aside from racing or riding across a frozen pond, under what conditions do you find studded tires useful? I have never used them, and the worst I have had to do is take a day off when it is really nasty and icy. Maybe some climates or landscapes are more prone to the spontaneous formation of ice patches? <Q> I find them useful on the street during the winter. <S> Here in Minneapolis it gets pretty cold and the streets can get pretty icy. <S> Their studded-ness plus their aggressive tread pattern give me good traction in snow and on ice. <S> However, studded tires are really slow. <S> The majority of the time, even in winter, there isn't much ice <S> and I am completely fine riding on slicks. <S> For days when its snowing and icy, I have a spare front wheel with a studded tire mounted on it. <S> I'll swap that in for those days, leaving the slick on the back. <S> Traction on the back is less than optimal, but it is a good speed/stability tradeoff. <S> I can handle my backwheel slipping around, but if the front wheel slips I am going to end up on my face. <S> Also I did this when I commuted daily, so I didn't skip very snowy days. <S> In fact very snowy days made me want to ride more. <A> It depends on where you live. <S> On many winter days there isn't much difference between the frozen pond you mentioned and the middle of the street around here. <S> Studded tires are definitely not a must for any winter rider, it's more of a if-it-fits-your-local-needs type of item. <A> I got myself studded tires when my commute had ≈150 m elevation difference which went through a narrow valley with a grade of 15 - 20 %. <S> I'm in western/central Germany, so temperature stays around freezing point most of the winter: <S> lots of frost cycles, meaning thawing during the day, water running on the road and freezing there in the night a period of freezing temperatures may end by freezing rain, also fog over frozen groud can create a black ice layer <S> if there's snow, it it will almost always stay slippery due to temperatures not far below 0 °C. <S> It will probably also thaw a bit during the day and then often form black ice the next night. <S> In contrast, I once spent a winter in Winnipeg. <S> Due to the low temperatures, biking on the snow was fine throughout almost all winter (except a few days in January below -35 ° <S> C: the rear hub freewheeling mechanism froze). <S> They also help with frost on asphalt - but unless there's a lot of it and/or steep grade <S> I'd say this can usually be managed without. <S> Things change a bit if you have a dog with the bike and thus cannot rely on not having any unexpected side forces. <S> All in all I'd say that if there isn't substantial grade or some local feature that is particularly prone to ice and cannot be circumvented, studded tires are not needed in most parts of Germany: while the above mentioned happens, it will affect only a few days each winter.
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Studded tires would have helped during the week or two of thawing when we had water on top of ice.
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Is there a All-In-One Bike that I can use for several types of riding? Is there a bike, which can be used for several types of riding? By this, I am referring to commutes, tours, cross country, off-road mountain biking, trailing especially. The bike should contain the major quality of several specifically designed bikes. By this I mean the following: Road Bikes: Lightweight, speed, ergonomic Downhill MTBs: Rigid Frame, High performance suspension and Tires Cross Country: Comfortable (on Long tours ) For me, I have an habit of using a MTB for most of all the activities I mentioned above and most of time, this is not an comfortable experience over long run. So, the question is simple Is there a bike, which contains all the qualities in one? <Q> In general you can get an very good all-around road bike, or a very good all-around mountain bike. <S> To get a single bike for everything there will always be trade-offs in areas like weight/durability; speed/traction; etc. <S> That said - many people own one bike and use it for everything. <S> If I had to drop to one bike I would buy a 29"-wheel based front suspension mountain bike with the following: suspension front fork with lockout disk brakes rack and fender mounts (and a rack and fenders) a spare wheelset <S> In my mind the spare wheelset is key - that way you can run a high pressure slick on one set, and then switch to a knobbie without the hassle of swapping out the tires on each wheel. <A> There are always trade-offs so it depends on what you do, but there will probably always be arguments in favour of multiple bikes. <S> Simple answer, though, is that there is no such thing as the "all-in-one" bike (unless you have a really small, tight definition for "all"). <S> My cyclocross is great (ticks the heavy duty, gear range, off-road, comfortable boxes), but my fixed is way lighter <S> (so is faster, less attractive to thieves, easier to maintain), my time trial bike is fastest (but not so useful for commuting) and my road bike is too fragile for daily use (and too nickable). <S> I couldn't do the shopping on my trial bike, I wouldn't want to leave my road (or trial) bike locked up away from home <S> , I couldn't race on my fixed (even if I wanted to). <S> So the cyclocross is the closest to an allrounder, but there are things it can't do as well <S> (it's not fast, it is relatively heavy). <A> You can ride it off road like a mountain bike with a bit of skill , you can put road tyres on it <S> and it's still light enough for road riding, <S> provided you don't get a top end one <S> it'll probably have mudguard eyelets and rack mounts so you can go touring, and the frame is strong enough to tow a trailer and it should last for years. <S> That's been my personal experience since getting one earlier in the year (I got a Kinesis Crosslight 5T , but plenty of other cyclocross bikes are similar), but may not match your requirements. <S> If you add a bit more detail about all the different things you want to use it for you might get a better recommendation. <A> I use a Surly cross-check as my all-purpose bike. <S> I use 23/28 mm (summer/winter) Bontrager Race lite hard-case tires for day-to-day (including towpath/flat trail). <A> All good answers, figure out what will be the primary use and base your decision on that. <S> That way the compromises you make will be less apperant on your primary rides. <S> Having said that, and owning multiple bikes (hybrid, cyclocross, hard tail mountain) if I were forced to keep just one, it would be my Trek Lane, steel frame cyclocross bike. <A> I agree with everyone's answers as well but over the years I have found myself using Trek's 7.5 fx hybrid bike as a do everything bike. <S> It has mounts on it and everything you need for communting, touring, leisure rides, camping, gravel roads, and some other big bike events and riding in the median. <S> I also have a Specialized road bike that I use for speed rides, windy days, and races and some touring. <S> I favor my hybrid for riding with the kids and friends that are not avid cyclists and do not have the endurance and speed. <S> The only thing I hate about the road bike I use to scoot across town is I can't leave the asphalt. <A> Agreed on the choice of a CX-style bike with a selection of wheels & tyres for road vs off-road use: I ride a Surly Cross-Check, which is light enough, comfy enough and handles pretty much everything I want to do, though Salsa's Vaya (or even the Fargo) would probably be my first choice if I was starting again from scratch...
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That's a pretty broad question, but my personal take is that if you want one bike that will do anything a cyclocross bike isn't a bad idea. I have a second set of old wheels/tread tires that I can stick on if I'm planning on going across very rough terrain.
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How to descend mountain roads? What skills and techniques are required to descending at high speeds while maintaining control of the bicycle? How does this change when the roads are wet or have gravel in them? <Q> Whilst I come from a mountain bike background so my advice might be different from someone with a road background <S> , I've found the following tips work well when I've been on a road bike in the mountains. <S> Keep your weight centered - don't be tempted to lean back. <S> You want to keep a good amount of weight over the front wheel to help it grip. <S> Look through the corner, not at the corner, focusing on the exit. <S> On dry roads with a good surface you can probably lean the bike a lot further than you realise. <S> Brake before the corner, not in the corner. <S> Braking in the corner will cause the bike to "stand up". <S> If you can clearly see through the corner, use the full width of the road (but ONLY if you have good visibility of what is coming up the hill). <S> On wet roads, go slower :-) <S> The same advice applies, but it's even more important to not use the front brake in the corner. <S> You'll be able to hear them braking <S> and you'll be surprised how much faster you can go! <A> The only thing I have to add to Chris's answer is that brakes can overheat rims on long descents. <S> I'll either alternate brakes front-back where possible, or gently pulse them a little from time to time. <A> Another tip or two from a road biking perspective. <S> When cornering, remember to drive down the outside leg and lean on the inside drop. <S> If you need to throw a knee out, that's fine, but keep your outside elbow in close and your head and shoulders level. <S> This will help ensure your tires stay in contact with the road. <S> Stay relaxed. <S> Like Chris said above, keep your eyes on the exit. <A> Just some other tips to add on... Have a buddy with you when attempting a significant descent in a remote area. <S> Stay cool and try to mentally anticipate what is going to happen before you start reacting. <S> Pick your line and think about contingencies if a car or obstacle shows up. <S> Look far ahead, not just at your buddies in front. <S> Don't get aggressive with speeding up unless you've been on the road before and knows what lies ahead. <S> Gravel is awful on a descent and you'll almost certainly wipe out on it if you try to take a turn on it at high speed. <S> This also applies to wet roads to a lesser extent (although paint stripes are like ice). <S> Beware of "tar-and-chip" sections that can appear with little warning even on roads that have no need of maintenance. <S> Rural municipalities are infuriatingly unpredictable about this type of maintenance. <S> If you just want to slow down a little bit <S> (eg to put a little more distance between you and the guy in front), try sitting up or standing instead of applying the brakes. <S> As others have said, it is good to alternate front and rear brakes. <S> I've heard of outright blow outs in the case of tandems (that's the worse case scenario). <S> However, you'll notice that the brakes fade in power as they get too hot and this happens on any kind of bike.
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And in gravel, take it slow - it's just not worth taking risks because you can lose the front wheel without any warning. If you have to brake through the corner, only use the back brake. The best way to lean to descend mountain roads is to follow someone who knows the road and has carbon rims.
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Single speed conversion chain keeps derailing rear cog under load? The chain on my SS mt bike keeps coming off the rear cog under load (like when I hit a steep hill) it will hold right after it's tightened but after a few hills it starts coming off non-stop. Talked to the LBS they so far are just telling me to tighten the tensioner, I was thinking i might need a bigger rear cog for more "chain wrap" any advice. <Q> Some possible culprits: cog and the chainring are not in line. <S> rear hub is not tight enough and twists under load (see 1.) <S> chain is stretched or cogs worn out - so <S> the chain doesn't 'seat' <S> well in teeth <S> what the shop says - chain <S> not tight enough <A> Most likely you do not need a larger cog. <S> If you need more tension and you're out of drop-out space, you probably need a shorter chain. <S> You may need to remove a link or use a half-link. <S> Otherwise, David's suggestions are all recommended. <S> Check your chain-line, chain & cog wear and make sure your wheel is tightened adequately. <A> For me, simply pulling the axle as far back as it will go and tightening the nuts is not enough. <S> I don't use a chain tensioner, I use the wheel as a lever to tension the chain. <S> How I Tighten My Chain Seat the chain. <S> Looking forward push right side of the hub axle as far back as it will go such that the right side of your tire can is hitting your frame. <S> Tighten the right side hub nut. <S> Lay your bike down, peddle side down. <S> Place your left foot gently on the the frame near the bottom bracket. <S> With your left hand, grab the rear tire by the bottom bracket next to your foot. <S> Pull up (perpendicular to the plane of the wheel) <S> gently on your tire. <S> This should have the effect of using the tire rim as a lever arm to cam your rear cog farther backward, fully tensioning the chain. <S> Pull up enough <S> so the tire is centered and no longer touching the right side of the bike. <S> Using that wrench you are holding in you right hand, tighten the left side axle nut. <S> NOTE : <S> Be careful you shouldn't have to pull on the rim to hard. <S> If you need to you can always go back and adjust the right axle nut forward a little.
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If your front and rear cogs are inline, the most likely reason that it keeps popping off is that the chain is not tight enough.
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Damaged rim or just the tube valve? I had a flat on the way to work today. Not really earth shattering, it was about 5 miles in, only a short walk until the office, where I could fix it in comfort. But walking the bike, I noticed an odd behaviour. The flat was on the front wheel, and I noticed that once per revolution, the handlebars would turn slightly to the left. Very consistent, just as the valve would get to the bottom of the wheel. What would cause this? Is it just the valve being slightly thicker than the (now deflated) tube, or did I somehow damage my rim in the short while between the puncture and me stopping the bike? <Q> It's possible you damaged your rim, but it should be very easy to check. <S> Turn the bike over and spin the wheel and eyeball it both side to side and up and down. <S> If you have put a flat spot in the rim it should be very noticeable. <S> It's more likely that it is just the way the (flat) tyre is sitting on the rim, which might well be affected by the valve. <S> If you've got a narrow tyre and a lockring on the valve, that may be holding the tyre on the rim at that point only, causing a wobble when that part of the wheels hits the ground. <A> However, you may need to true the wheel which could be why you're noticing the wheel being out of alignment. <S> Otherwise, it's probably the tire causing the wheel to wobble. <S> To tell if the rim is off, <A> This means that you may have put a flat spot in your rim. <S> Another thing, it could have been the hub. <S> The hub has either sealed or unsealed berrings inside, depending on the quality of your bike. <S> You then proceed by taking the lock nut off completely. <S> Then you unscrew the hub bolt only enough to see the berrings. <S> You'd have to check with them to find out. <S> Do not unscrew the hub bolt all the way. <S> This will break the warranty.
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A flat tire will rarely damage the rim unless you hit a rather large pothole which resulted in a pinch flat. If there is shredded metal inside, you need new berrings or a new hub. Depending on the company of bike, they may warranty it. To check if the berrings are dammaged, you simply unscrew the axel nuts in order to take off the wheel.
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How to keep the pants from getting dirty If it is wet, not necessarily pouring rain, it is easy to get the bottom of the pants and the shoes dirty. My tires have protective plates fenders, yet it is not enough. If there a way to avoid that? <Q> Protective plates? <S> You mean Fenders/Mudguards ? <S> I can think of 3 things that could help, other than simply bringing a change: <S> Bigger fenders (wider, <S> and/or go down the tire more). <S> Basically, some fenders are better than others. <S> A mudflap hanging from the bottom of the front fender. <S> This is a flap made of something flexible (rubber, leather, etc) <S> that hangs from the bottom of the fender. <S> It effectively extends the fender down even further without it being a problem if it hits something. <S> Some fenders/mudguards come with this. <S> Or you can add one. <S> Protective pants over your regular pants. <S> Nothing will be 100%. <S> It's always possible to get splashed by something else from the side. <A> You can avoid getting your pants dirty and save rotational weight at the same time by not wearing any pants at all. <A> You could get big socks and try tucking your pants into them. <S> I personally like these as they're waterproof too: http://www.sealskinz.com/socks <A> I use Helly Hansen Voss pants. <S> They are great and I can take them off/put them on with my shoes on. <S> http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=voss+pants <S> EDIT: <S> Yes, I do sweat but not too bad as my commute is only 30 min. <S> If it's warm and raining I usually wear shorts and put pants in my bag. <A> Like the other answers, I would recommend putting on special trousers for cycling. <S> For colder/wet weather, I use long cycling or hiking trousers (like these ); those have the additional advantage of protecting from cold an rain. <S> You can either put them on instead of your regular pants, then change at work (more comfortable, less wear on regular trousers, but awkward to change in public), or just put them over your regular trousers (easier to change, and warmer). <S> For warm weather, I just use common Lycra-type cycling shorts. <S> Yes, they are not very stylish, but they are very comfortable for riding, and changing into regular trousers is quite fast. <S> An additional option, particularly for short distances where changing trousers is too much hassle, are bike gaiters . <S> They are easier to pack and quicker to put on/take off than cycling trousers, but protect shoes and lower legs from dirt (and rain). <S> They are also a good alternative to rain-proof trousers, if you wear a poncho. <A> Much easier to wear cycling-specific clothing and just carry a change of clothes/shoes with you in a waterproof bag/pannier or leave some at work. <S> Anything more than fenders and flaps is going to be a hassle to deal with. <A> I haven't cycled for years, but I walk about 9,5 kilometers to work every workday (and the same distance back), so I know the problem well. <S> From my experience the single most efficient measure is to wear shoes and pants of light colors - light gray, clay, etc, so that typical dirt is not that visible on them. <S> This fixes the problem once and for all <S> - I wash my sand color jeans once in maybe three weeks <S> and I just never wash light color shoes <S> - their outsoles get abrased to holes faster (that is in about three months). <A> I recommend Neos Overshoes, which both my wife and I wear. <S> You wear your regular shoes inside of these, and these "overshoes" add a little warmth, protection and traction, covering some of your pant leg as well as your shoes. <S> They aren't the most attractive things out of the street, but you may arrive perfectly dry and clean at your destination. <S> I have the Voyager NEOS , but they have a less expensive Villager model as well. <S> The nice thing about NEOS is their versatility. <S> They are useful any time you need to go out in wet/dirty conditions, and are not just for cycling. <S> The don't "clip in", but if that's important to you, you might consider a reversible pedal that is flat on one side and has a clip on the other. <S> I use such pedals on one of my bikes that I use for both and long trips. <A> Gaiters such as skiers wear would be another option.
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I have a pair of yellow rain pants that I put on over my regular pants when cycling in the rain. A front fender that's wider than the tire with a stay (rod) going back for support that hugs the tire fairly closely and extends down to the height of the bottom bracket is ideal. And for your shoes, you can get overshoes to protect them: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_shoe#Overshoes
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Should I oil my seat post? In a previous question I asked how to remove rust from my seat tube/post. In the comments of one answer somebody said I should be oiling my seat post to prevent it from rusting into my seat tube, but I'm concerned this will cause the tube to slip when jarred. Should I be applying a thin coat of oil to my seat post to prevent rust from forming between it an the seat tube? What sort of oil, if any, should I be using? <Q> You should absolutely grease your seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber). <S> It won't slip around if your seatpost clamp is properly tightened. <S> Get a thing of grease from the bike shop, like the park tool PPL-1 grease. <S> Better yet, get the big tub. <S> Then, generously apply it all over inside your seattube. <S> When you think you have enough, add some more. <S> Then put the seatpost in and twist it around a lot and move it up and down to ensure the grease covers all of the seatposts surface. <S> Screw threads are often greased when they are installed, but that doesn't cause them to get loose any easier. <S> Same thing with the seatpost. <A> Greasing your seatpost will prevent problems like this: "Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube" . <S> Don't use chain oil, grease is what you want. <S> As whatsisname pointed out, all fasteners on your bike should be lightly greased. <S> This is what keeps them from corroding and seizing over time, becoming a real pain to remove. <S> Contains enough grit to keep from sliding, while still offering protection. <A> Slipperiness isn't the reason for the grease. <S> The goal here is to keep out moisture and oxygen, thereby discouraging oxidation. <S> Aluminum oxide is especially problematic, as its molecules are substantially larger than the aluminum molecules in your seat post. <S> Oxidation will cause it to jam very tightly. <S> In general, you don't have to worry your seat post slipping. <S> The surface of the seat post and seat tube are not perfectly smooth. <S> The "high spots" will push the grease out of the way, in to the "low spots" where you might otherwise see moisture and oxygen. <S> It doesn't take much grease to do the trick, since the seat post is already quite snug. <S> Just make sure it's all covered. <S> In some cases it's possible for grease to get trapped and not be able to squeeze out, giving a result similar to hydroplaning. <S> You tighten & tighten and things are still slippery. <S> It's not likely in this case, because the seat post clamp is narrow. <S> For overkill, you can even use anti-seize:
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If you have trouble with a slipping seatpost (like me), carbon grease is what you need. Heavy, water-proof grease is a good idea.
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Night cycling: Is it worth using electroluminescent wire? It's currently winter in the UK, so for my commete to and from work I need lights and reflective surfaces for safety. I've read about local people losing their lives cycling, so I don want to make myself as visible and safe as possible. I currently have: Lighting 2 x Smart Lunar 35 Lux front lights Energizer head torch Smart Lunar R 1/2 Watt Rear Light Fibre light (Flashing red) attached to back Reflective ALTURA MENS NEVIS WATERPROOF CYCLING BIKE JACKET 3M Reflective spoke covers I'm considering buying and fitting electroluminescent wire to my bike frame in order to make myself more visible. Does anyone have any thoughts or first hand experience? On one hand I consider the brighter and more visible I am, the safer I am. However I'm already got lots of lighting and reflective surfaces on my bike. Also I've made sure that my front facing lights are white, rear facing red and other surfaces reflective. So I worry that el wire could add a non-standard and confusing colour into the mix. Update: 4th December 2012 I found some el wire for £6 at Suntekstore so I decided to give it a go! I've also recorded a quick video <Q> There is some interesting research here (pp 56-60), in amongst some decent comparisons of methodologies, they suggest that reflective material on the major joints makes the real difference in having cyclists being identifiable and identified. <S> The thinking, as I understand it, is that lights are just lights and could be on (more or less) anything but reflective material on ankles and knees <S> introduces motion and makes you look like a cyclist to a viewer's subconscious. <S> This isn't to say that you shouldn't light yourself up like a Christmas tree, but unusual and unexpected things aren't necessarily going to help you be noticed. <A> I think the biggest advantage of EL wire is that it would increase your side visibility. <S> Front and real lights aren't that great for that. <S> On my folder, I have wheel lights installed - with the small wheels on the folder, they make a very distinct pattern, very noticeable to drivers that are otherwise likely to T-bone me. <A> I have 3M reflective tape on my cranks too. <S> These should be pretty visible, and the motion would clearly indicate that I am a bicycle, not a car. <A> Sorry no idea what the el wire looks like. <S> If you have never driven, do remember that just because you can see the car does not mean the car driver can see you. <S> Also winter causes windows to steam up and if poorly cleared or grease smeared even street lights can cause problems. <S> When I cycled regularly in my youth <S> I could reach 25mph on the flat. <S> Car drivers only expect cyclists to travel marginally above walking pace. <S> Incidentally the only time I was forced off the road was in broad daylight on a straight road wearing everything possible to make me visible. <S> Fortunately I was alert, otherwise I might have been injured. <S> I didn't get the offending driver's number or I would have reported him. <A> After reading the journal article @Unsliced linked I think the answer is undoubtedly yes. <S> Also interestingly, it's good to learn that the benefit of fluorescent, non-reflective material is apparently little more than wearing all black once the sun sets. <S> I'll add my 2c: <S> IMO the best luminescence-for-the-buck <S> is the " ansi class 2 vest " - i.e. construction worker vest. <S> They cost $10, are super bright in light and wrap around the the body. <S> Curiously, wearing one often elicits 'extra' space from pedestrians and cars. <S> Maybe because it looks "official"? <A> Wow, that's about 5x more lighting than I have on my bike! <S> Good for you! <S> I am a big fan of those reflective jackets, they really light up in the car headlights. <S> I think i agree with you about the confusing color, and some states have laws about what color lighting you can have on your car. <S> Mostly for good reason because drivers get distracted when they see something unusual.
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As a driver the best features especially in town are flashing LEDs front and rear, reflective ankle bands (these work from any angle) and relflectors attached to the bike wheels. Car drivers are often blinded by other vehicles lights and even some poorly positioned or shielded security lights.
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Frozen suspension in the winter Winter is coming! Last season I put my road bike in the garage and just rode my mountain bike all winter. Something strange happened: my suspension fork froze. When spring came everything unfroze and was a-ok. Questions: Should my fork freeze when it is cold outside? Do you like having suspension when it is below freezing? I mostly just do road/logging roads. There are not really any trails where I am. I don't see too much value to suspension in the winter. Comments? If you want to use suspension in the winter do you need a special fork or can you service your fork somehow? <Q> Disclaimer: I used to design and sell after market suspension parts for proflex bikes <S> There are three main strategies for the "spring" in fork suspension coil spring <S> elastomer stack inert gas, e.g. air or sometimes something fancier. <S> Nowadays all springs are dampened somehow either by using oil, negative air (opposing force on the spring) friction (frequently used on cheaper elastomer stack forks) <S> In sub 0'C temperatures oil can become much more viscous and can't dampen the shock properly (oil is forced through little holes to slow down the spring-back of the fork) and thus make the fork feel like it is not responding. <S> If you keep riding, the friction might heat up the oil a bit. <S> Elastomers are harder to heat up. <S> I know Proflex riders in the nineties used to pour boiling water on the elastomers before going out for a ride. <A> Very timely question. <S> A cold winter (we have lowest -28 <S> °C here) is a big test for any fork. <S> The third winter I rode a bike, since my fork is not cheap, I decided to temporarily change it to a cheap rigid fork (it can even be used). <S> Last winter my fork was freezing every ride so I can imagine how much the fork is experiencing every freeze-unfreeze-freeze-unfreeze-... <A> Well it needs to be pretty cold, but it can happen. <S> It's really up to you. <S> Personally I don't use suspension out of the trails. <S> Fork oil properties will change with the cold. <S> So if you live in a place where it gets seriously cold, you might want to look into an oil that's more adapted for winter. <A> You can apply some multi-purpose lubricant on the uppers and top seals. <S> This will keep it from freezing up, help prevent it from getting damaged and will help keep moisture out. <A> IMHO the mtb fork "freezing effect" has little to do with oil viscosity variations. <S> As thermal expansion coefficient of polyethylene is 10 times greater than that of steel the slider shrinks around the inner leg and even pulls out of the outer one. <S> You may try to cut the slider vertically and glue it to the inside of the outer leg, or just block the suspension till warmer days.
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Cold temperatures effect oil and elastomers but have no real affect on the other types of springs and dampers. You might want to use a suspension if the road you use is particularly bad. The cause is in the plastic slider (liner) sitting between the outer and inner stanchions (legs) of the fork.
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Should I grease a carbon fiber seat post? I was reading a recent question when I saw this answer : You should absolutely grease your seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber). Why should I NOT grease a carbon fiber seat post? <Q> As the person who made that claim, the reason is that allegedly some greases can attack the epoxies found in some carbon fiber applications, causing a breakdown of the CF structure, and causing expansion which will jam the post in place. <S> The epoxy will otherwise not corrode, so it's not necessary for that purpose. <S> The manufacturers also recommend you do not do it. <S> I have a carbon fiber seatpost in a steel frame that I greased a long time ago before I learned about this <S> and it isn't stuck, but <S> I might just be lucky. <S> And of course, if you use a grease specifically designed for carbon fiber applications it negates all these claims, for they refer to the run of the mill stuff. <A> Carbon parts will cause aluminum to oxidize, as a chemical reaction which is why seat posts wind up stuck in frames. <S> But that isn't why this is necessary. <S> "Carbon grease" is not actually grease. <S> It's a friction compound which increases the friction between your fancy carbon seat post and your frame. <S> Increasing the friction allows a lower torque on the fixing bolts for the individual part, which reduces the risk of crushing the part, or having it slip in the frame. <S> Slippage of seat posts and handlebars in the frame was why we were originally told not to grease carbon parts. <S> The grease reduced friction, which meant higher torque and more broken parts. <S> After parts started to get stuck, they realized that they need something, but it had to increase friction, rather than decrease it. <S> Hence, carbon "grease" compounds. <A> Pace make some (Pace RC005 Carbon Fibre Seatpost Grease) <S> and I'm sure some other people do as well. <A> I just confronted this problem exactly. <S> Carbon post, almost "welded" into a Columbus SL seat post. <S> I had removed it less than a year previously, but was now stuck so firmly <S> the shop guys nearly had to destroy it to remove it (took over half an hour with the seatpost clamped into a vice, and two guys [carefully] applying torque on the frame to get it unstuck). <S> The better the interior surface of the seat tube the better, then polished it to remove some brazing residue from the original assembly. <S> They also applied an anti-seize compound to hopefully prevent this from happening again. <A> I'd imagine that there's no point in greasing it. <S> You're not going to have any issue with it wanting to bond itself to the frame tube due to corrosion or dissimilar metals.
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You can get carbon seat post specific grease, it's designed to reduce the clamping pressure that is needed to hold the seat post in place and prevent it either sticking or slipping.
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Listening to audio without obstructing ears I'm looking for a way to listen to my audiobooks while commuting without obstructing my ears. One (rather expensive) option appears to be the Tunebug Shake (a Bluetooth turn-your-helmet-into-a-speaker gizmo); however, I'm hesitant to spend $120 on a device made by a company which does all their consumer promos with skater-style helmets and doesn't answer emails asking questions about sound quality with vented helmets. Another option would be a water-bottle speaker (I commute with a Camelbak -- this is Austin, after all -- so either of these mounts are fine). Obvious downside is positioning -- my two water-bottle cages are below and behind my ears -- and several of the commercially available devices are specific to Apple hardware (and the thought of buying an iPod rather than using my existing Android-based phone smarts a little). Suggestions? Experience? <Q> I'm assuming you want those more to be able to hear traffic, less because how unobstructed ears look. <S> I use a pair of cheap sony ear plugs. <S> They're the kind of plugs that don't go all the way in the ear, but are only small round bulbs that sit at the front. <S> Thus they still allow me to hear everything around me perfectly. <A> I think this would be ideal for the purpose listed. <S> Audio is vibrated to the ear with bone conductance. <S> Not sure how good they are but they do fit the bill for rockin while riding. <S> http://www.neatoshop.com/product/Audio-Bone-1-0-Headphones-Black <A> Almost any low quality ear plugs (so, unexpensive) will do the job. <S> That is because cheap ones fail to insulate your ears from the external noise sources, and that's precisely what you do want to achieve. <S> Of course, you shouldn't set the device's volume to full throttle :-) <A> There are products like this one: http://www.iworld.co.uk/p/Slipstreamz_Cycling_Earwear_for_Headphones.htm?affiliatecode=gbase which claim to do what you want, and appears to be relatively cheap. <S> They appear to take your existing ear phones and position them in such a way that you can hear your music, the shields cut out the wind noise but you can still hear your surroundings. <S> Whether they work as advertised is another question, along with whether they'll make you look like a tit. <S> Weird earphone mounts <S> http://img.iworld.co.uk/images/products/Slipstreamz%20Cycling%20Earwear%20for%20Headphones_A_P.jpg <S> There's a previous thread here: <S> Is listening to music dangerous while cycling? <S> which discusses whether listening to music whilst cycling is safe. <A> The Cy-fi speaker is an option. <S> It is a wireless speaker that attaches to your stem or handlebars and wirelessly plays from an ipod/mp3 player. <S> The upside is that it doesn't cover your ears at all. <S> The downside is that you're playing loud enough other people hear. <A> I simply stream Pandora on my Blackberry and then put it on speaker-phone with the volume all the way up and the phone tucked inside a runner's waist pouch (similar to a fanny pack but very small and made of lycra and meant to hold a few bucks and a credit card. <S> Available at most running shoe stores) strung around my neck. <S> Very safe and <S> the audio isn't bad at all. <A> I travel everyday across town, I like to hear the traffic when its busy and I like my music to sound good on quieter stretches of road, <S> all the in ear <S> bud things just sounded rubbish. <S> I am now really happy using some igrado on ear head phones. <S> like these http://whathifi.com/Review/Grado-iGrado/ <S> They are completely open so about as antisocial as you can get on public transport, they bleed sound its untrue, however its perfect on the bike since you can hear everything around you and the music sounds great. <S> Took some getting use to though, the band goes round the back and clamp the ears quite tightly. <S> The cord is also one that hangs down infront instead of around the back of the neck which does cause some tangles sometimes. <S> As for the robustness, the build quality is great, but as they are open, they are quite exposed to the elements, so far so good <S> but I have only been using them through the winter, snow, sleet but no driving rain.... <S> well see how it goes next year, may also be a bit sweety in summer though. <A> I think by definition, if you can hear the your music/audio book/whatever, you are 'obstructing' your ears. <S> Don't put yourself (and others!) at danger! <S> When you are riding, you should be fully engaged in RIDING. <A> /headphones <S> designed to be worn in one ear only <S> , that combine a stereo input into just that one speaker. <A> I use the regular Blackberry ear phones with mike. <S> They are $2 on Amazon these days, and they leak noise around them very well. <S> However, of course the issue is not entirely related to hearing the things around you, as well as paying attention to the things around you. <S> I personally prefer to listen to talk radio (I Heart Radio or Pandora) or podcats while riding. <S> Or even talk on the phone. <S> But it does distract somewhat while riding. <A> I've not tried them yet, but I read <S> these ear buds allow ambient sounds in. <S> Supposedly they fit in the outer <S> ear without actually penetrating the ear canal. <S> http://www.marshallheadphones.com/product/minor
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These look like an excellent solution: earbuds
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Is taking a bike TRAILER on SF Bay Area Rapid Transit permitted? My partner and I were considering purchasing a Burley Travoy (http://www.burley.com/products/cargo-utilities/travoy.cfm). We thought we might do this because we like to get groceries at Rainbow in San Francisco sometimes, though we live across the Bay in Oakland. It seemed like the Travoy would be easier to get on an off the train (with a bike) and easier to keep out of the path of other passengers than our Burley Flatbed... but is this even allowed? It says NOTHING about trailers in any of the BART literature. Is there anyone out there who has tried taking a trailer on BART? Did you get hasseled? Are there other transit systems that have a policy on bike trailers? <Q> I also contacted BART via the customer service email listed on the BART website and received this answer while out for the holidays: <S> Dave, Bike trailers are permitted on BART, with the same basic restrictions as bicycles (no bikes in the first car, or on trains passing through downtown San Francisco, Oakland or Berkeley during rush hours). <S> Thanks for choosing BART. <S> Operator #6 <S> BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) Transit Information Center <S> Tel. <S> 510-465-2278 (live operators) 6AM to <S> 11PM - 7/Days" Hi, <S> I called BART and the person I spoke with <S> was very nice and quite informative. <S> Basically, there are a number of bicycle restrictions regarding peak commuting hours. <S> You're pretty much committed to following those rules. <S> According to the rep I spoke with, during "non-peak" hours, you may or may not be allowed to use a trailer. <S> The station masters will look at the length of your set-up. <S> So the message I got is this. <S> You will not be able to commute during peak hours with a trailer. <S> You're probably ok with some trailers during non-peak times; except at times when a big event is occurring in the city. <S> I'd suggest that you pick an off-peak time when it's not terribly inconvenient and try out your bike trailer set-up. <S> Also, according to the BART rep, if you're organized about things and your trailer is basically a large piece of luggage, you're probably good to go during the off-peak hours. <A> My guess is that BART is very intentionally NOT making a policy on the matter. <S> They wouldn't be able to make one that allows trailers, but as long as they haven't been forced to speak on the matter, it becomes an issue at the station agent's discretion. <S> Yes, that makes it difficult to plan around what you know is allowed, but I think it's still better than a flat out " <S> no you cannot do this". <A> I'd try this: http://www.bart.gov/siteinfo/contact.aspx <S> The link provides local phone numbers and email addresses, etc. <S> Just saying. <S> Give the BART office a call. <S> They'll most likely answer your question. <S> And to add, I did what I'd do in my locale and found this: http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx Especially check the first and second bullet points. <S> A bike seems to be ok on an uncrowded train. <S> ( BART rules = <S> Regardless of any other rule, bikes are never allowed on crowded cars. <S> Use your good judgment and only board cars that can comfortably accommodate you and your bicycle). <S> They're not saying anything about bike+; <S> so guessing, it's probably ok if the car can accomodate your bike and the trailer.
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The only additonal restriction would simply be extra awareness, as you will be using more space then a regular bike, and to avoid crowded trains, even if it is not during the restricted hours. So, during low demand periods, you're probably ok if your trailer and bike are detached and compact as possible. So, first thing is that you need to follow the standard BART bicycle rules.
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How to carry a concealed firearm on a bike? For those of you that happen to cycle through rough neighborhoods and are able to do concealed carry of firearms... Wondering what you wear to conceal them that works well while cycling. Obviously the standard cycling outfit isn't going to do any good whatsoever... Various back/fanny packs seem like they'd be inconvenient. Most jackets that would work fine while walking would tend to "ride up" I'd think. Just curious as to what works and what doesn't work. <Q> A thread on this subject on Bikeforums ran to pages and pages... <S> Some expressing utter horror that a bicyclist would feel the need to be armed, others ridiculing the whole idea, others with decent suggestions. <S> I'm a cop, I know that numbers of cyclists ride in conditions that are less than optimal. <S> We have had armed robberies and muggings of cyclists here in St. Louis, usually the bad guy is after the high-end bike. <S> As well, mountain bikers have been attacked by cougars in Western states. <S> Bicycling magazine detailed several such incidents while I subscribed. <S> Rare, but possible. <S> First up. <S> Having the weapon concealed on the bike is rather a bad idea if the intent of the bad guy is to steal the bike... <S> Your first indication of anything wrong might simply be a pedestrian knocking you over at an intersection. <S> Now, he's got your pistol too... <S> Unfortunately, cycling gear isn't much designed for concealed-carry. <S> I have a little Taurus 2" 38 special as an "off-duty" weapon. <S> Drops right into my jersey pocket. <S> Sure, it "prints" there. <S> But then, I'm a cop... <S> I don't care. <S> A reasonable idea is the "fanny pack" ( <S> I've just been informed that Aussies call them "bum bags" <S> ...).As <S> far as I know, you can still buy a fanny pack that is designed specifically to carry a firearm.... <A> Seems like stuff made for joggers could work for cycling. <S> http://www.activeprogear.com/jogger_holster.html <S> Would a small triangle frame bag work? <S> The kind I'm thinking of seem about the right size to hold a small-to-medium pistol, and fit on the rear end of the top tube. <S> Some sit on top, secured by the seat post, some hang under, secured by the seat tube. <S> Lots of options... <S> http://www.google.com/images?q=triangle+frame+bag <S> Or a frame bag designed to attach to the front of the top tube. <S> Or a handlebar bag... <A> I have a Bike Nashbar frame pack that would definitely fit a compact frame handgun: <A> Just ran across a line of holsters that look interesting. <S> Relatively low cost <S> , so I may have to try one out to see how well it works. <S> http://www.pistolwear.com/ <A> I have one like the Nashbar frame pack, different brand but substantively the same thing. <S> Sucks that my Kahr PM-9, small though it is, adds pounds to my ultra-light bike, but in certain areas, I'd much rather not leave my firearm at home. <A> First off you'll have to wear mostly regular clothes. <S> You can tuck a shirt in over the holster, then if you wear a jacket over that, it will be completely hidden. <S> I have an MTAC holster , and I sometimes carry when I am buying or selling stuff from craigslist. <S> I've never had issues where it became visible that I was carrying. <A> One option that works well for me is using a belly band holster and a Ruger Lcp. <S> It hides easily under my cycling jerseys and is comfortable and secure even on 70 <S> + mile rides in the heat of summer. <S> The only real issue is that the sweat can corrode the non stainless slide and spare magazine. <S> If you can spring for it get your slide and magazine covered at Robar in their NP3. <S> If not be sure to clean and re oil your gun after every ride. <A> I use an Assault III backpack with a waist strap and a drop leg holster modified to attach to my hip using the leg platform as a pad. <S> I have a Glock 29 and it works well on a mountain bike. <A> I pedaled my bicycle from Seattle to key west carrying two guns . <S> I used two safepacker holsters strapped through the waist band for a Fannie pack which was attached around my waist. <S> Just Google safepacker holsters to get to the sites . <S> On the early portion of the trip I carried a 44 magnum Alaskan redhawk, then switched it out with a glock 20 and ruger <S> 380 incase my primary malfunctioned .I switched the 44 magnum to the glock 20 after I was out of the mountains. <S> My every day carry on my bicycle around Miami beach is a glock 29 and a ruger 380 still using two safe packer holsters.glock29's are serious firepower as is the glock 20 and 44magnum Alaskan red hawk. <S> The 44 magnum will will take care of all natural threats I am told while the glock 20 has a tad less firepower. <A> I carry either a Sig938 (9mm) or a S&W 640 Revolver (357 Mag) in a TommyGun fanny pack works like a charm
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Using an inside-the-waistband holster will suit you well.
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What's the most efficient riding style for losing weight? I plan on setting up my bicycle with one of those devices that holds the rear tire and gives some resistance so I can exercise through the winter. I think it's called a bicycle trainer. When using one of those for weight loss: Is it better to ride for a long time on low resistance or at a low speed? Or is it better to ride harder, spinning your legs faster or with more resistance for a shorter amount of time? Sorry; there isn't even an exercise tag on here. Feel free to retag as appropriate. <Q> The answer to this question is dependent on a number of factors, but the short answer is just 'yes'. <S> If you are purely looking for weight loss then the equation is calores in minus calories out equals delta, and so long as the delta is negative, i.e. that you burn more than you consume, then you will lose weight. <S> It's just simple arithmetic. <S> So, in the first place, just eat the same as you have ever done and do more exercise, then the weight will come off. <S> To do more training, though, will also require a balanced diet. <S> If you up your training load without changing your diet, you will get more tired and notice other negative effects. <S> You'll be hungrier <S> , you'll eat more, it's not as easy as just upping the workload. <S> What you're actually asking is about making this weight loss more efficient, maybe even drastic, and getting the bang for your buck. <S> But if you try for a low cadence, with low stress, you'll maintain for a lot longer, but you'll burn less quickly. <S> You'll lose weight either way, but you'll also do it differently and prepare your body differently. <S> To do this properly, you'll probably want to work just below the anaerobic threshold, this is the point at which the body is still able to consume enough oxygen to assist the work through using sustainable sources within the body (i.e. fat stores), but without all that pesky lactic acid being produced (and burning other sources, e.g. muscle). <S> This is the point where many endurance athletes will try and aim their training (also known as LSD - Long, Slow, Distance), to sit for extended periods at a heart rate set at a maintainable point. <S> For a reasonably trained athlete, this will likely be around 150 bpm. <S> For what it's worth, my rule of thumb is that I'll burn about 40 calories per mile almost irrespective of speed ... <S> but if you really want to lose weight, go running. <S> I reckon I burn about 120 calories a mile when running. <A> The 'best' way is by measuring your bodies response to whatever you are doing. <S> The best method by todays understanding is while using a heart-rate monitor. <S> As Unsliced mentioned, riding just below the anaerobic threshold. <S> You achieve that by monitoring your heart rate as you exercise, and holding it in that zone as long as possible. <S> That allows you to continuously work very hard, but not so hard that you deplete your bodies ability to deliver oxygen and get tired. <A> Gary Taubes makes a very reasonable argument that you can't "exercise to lose weight". <S> Or rather, that the conventional view that manipulating calories in through diet and calories out through exercise will cause you to gain or lose weight is not backed up by science. <S> That is, while "Energy in - energy out" is true, it is not useful, as the cause of fat gain or loss is elsewhere. <S> (He argues that carbohydrates in the diet are the "true cause" of fat gain, but this part of his argument is not as strong.) <A> The equipment you are talking about is called a turbo trainer. <S> In terms of weight loss I'm not sure which is best, spinning (pedalling quickly against low resistance) is good for cardiovascular stuff, whereas grinding along in a high gear or against a higher resistance is going to improve your strength and build muscle. <S> My gut feeling (if you'll excuse the slight pun) is that spinning will help you drop weight, but that's just intuition not knowledge talking.
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So if you sprint, on a higher resistance, with higher cadence, then your heart rate will be higher and you'll burn more - but you'll be able to maintain it for less time. You'll need a heart rate monitor and a means to test yourself .
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How to prevent my hub body from freezing? In the winter, as soon as its gets a little bit below 0°C, after 10-15 minutes the body of my rear hub gets frozen. This means the pedals/chain do not have any grip anymore on the rear wheel, the pleasure is over, and the walking begins. Peeing over the cassette helps for another 15 minutes, seriously, but I only carry limited amounts. I use my bike in summer and winter. And try to keep it clean with water and soap (no high-pressure). But it is stored in my garage, where temperature is just above freezing point. Any tips from preventing it to freeze? <Q> Winterize your freehub body. <S> This kind of failure is common in colder temperatures and a hub acting like this should not be ridden. <S> In addition to the safety issue, you can destroy your freehub with partial engagement. <A> Ice wax definitely helps. <S> I switched to a bottle of Pedro's Ice Wax 2.0 this winter, and haven't had a freeze-up yet. <S> I hadn't tried peeing on the cassette. <S> My ride may be a little too public for that... <A> I don't know how to stop it freezing, but if I whack the right chain stay hard with my heel <S> it is normally enough to get the pawls to engage and get me going again.
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The freehub needs to be disassembled, the factory grease cleaned out of it and regreased with a winter weight grease.
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What is the actual width of a Panaracer Pasela tire? Not unlike other brands, I've heard that older Panaracer Pasela tires ran slim when compared to their advertised width, probably a marketing ploy to get the weight down for its size - but I've also heard and read (on the internets..) that recent production has changed such that the widths are wider, more true to spec. The cool thing about the Paselas is that they come in so many sizes. That's also the bad thing - none of the local bike shops carry them. I'm trying to determine the widest tire I can fit in my bike. Anyone out there with Paselas on your bike, can you report the width of the tire at its widest point, along with the spec'd width? Even better would be someone with the Pasela TG 700c x 28 - the size I'm aiming for - that would more than awesome. <Q> I just got an email from Harris Cyclery, and they said the plain Paselas (no Tour Guard etc.) <S> run "pretty true to width". <S> Didn't get any measurements from them, though, and i don't have any Paselas myself. <S> I use 28 mm Panaracer Rolly Poly tires, and will soon be getting a set of 28 mm Grand Bois Cerf. <S> Would be nice to have a webpage of true width measurements of various popular tires on various popular rims. <A> My plain black Pasela 700X32C tire measures only about 29mm on a fairly standard road rim. <S> Had it a couple of years, so it may be older production. <A> I'm decidedly a non-expert, but the following opinion is based on my experience with tires for other types of vehicles. <S> To match the tire width specified by manufacturer you have to have rims with the same width as the reference rim they use. <S> If your rim is wider, then the tire will inflate slightly wider (the side walls will bulge out further, and the contact patch will widen as well), a narrower rim gives you a narrower tire. <S> To get a feel for how this works, in the extreme (for snow bikes), Surly Large Marge rims <S> are 65mm wide and are typically used with Surly Endomorph tires that are 3.7" wide, but another company, Chain Reaction Cycles sells a 100mm wide rim for use with the same tires. <S> The reason for the added width is because it adds volume to the tire and actually makes the contact patch wider, a useful benefit when you are trying to float over snow.
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One thing that might be a factor in determining the correct tire width (for any tire) is the rim width.
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Can I convert a road frame to a mountain bike? Some years ago, I picked up a Cannondale R3000 and moved all the components to my current bike as an exercise in bike building, never repeated (in fairness, the Cannondale fit me a little better but my beautiful 1998 Klein has such a sweet, sweet paint job...). I've been putting the frame on Craigslist off and on for a few years, but no one seems to want to pay what I'm asking. Regardless, my current MTB is an all-mountain beast that I bought before I knew my riding style, and I'm thinking of picking up a more cross-country steed. Times being tight and all, is there anything preventing me from building out the Cannondale road frame as a mountain bike? Obvious [potential] answers (e.g., tire clearance) are good, more involved ones (e.g., frame robustness) are too. I'm trying to get a picture of what might lie ahead in this venture. <Q> If you want to use it for "proper mountain biking" (however you define that) <S> the answer is almost certainly no. <S> Additionally, the geometry will be all wrong (if you put straight bars on it you'll probably feel quite cramped without a long stem, which will make the handling wierd). <S> That's without getting into the strength issue - Cannondales have always seemed quite fragile to me (but that's an opinion only, never owned one). <S> However, if you want something for blasting along relatively smooth forest trails that aren't muddy, fit the widest grippiest tyres you can and give it a whirl. <S> A few small bumps are unlikely to break it assuming you're not a large rider, you don't try jumping and you don't crash. <S> It'll be a very different experience from a proper mountain bike, but on the right trails could still be a lot of fun. <S> Ultimately though for proper cross country mountain biking you do need a mountain bike (or a cyclo cross bike). <S> Second hand aluminium road bike frames aren't that desireable any more, even if they did have dura ace on them when purchased, simply because carbon frames are so much cheaper. <S> However, second hand mountain bike frames are also pretty cheap, and a couple of hundred dollars towards one from selling the R3000 frame is infinitely more than nothing if it's just gathering dust. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Converting to a straight-up mountain bike would be hard. <S> Converting a road bike to a 650B bike capable of handling dirt trails and gravel is a pretty established practice, mostly entailing swapping the wheelset and brakes: http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2010/cc769-joehuddleston0410.html <S> It's more usually done on older frames, but nothing necessarily precludes doing it on a newish racy frame. <S> However, a narrow chainstay/seatstay/fork gap may make fitting fat tires difficult. <S> However, you'd be able to pick up a decent used mountain bike for the price of a decent 650b wheelset, especially if you'd be fine with a rigid bike. <S> $125 or so can get you Tange Prestige with early 90s Deore LX and the like. <S> If you want a project for your R300 frame rather than selling it cheap, there's always a singlespeed conversion (the Wabi wheelset is great for the price). <A> I would strongly advise against converting an aluminum Cannondale road frame to mountain bike duty. <S> They're not built to take the headtube stress a typical suspension fork will inflict on the frame. <S> If you keep a rigid front fork and go the cyclocross route, you'll have better luck.
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Despite what I said about strength in relation to proper mountain biking, road bikes are surprisingly strong provided the forces are applied to them in the way the bike is designed. You won't be able to fit wide enough tyres to give you decent grip, and punctures are likely to be a problem. I'd suggest trying ebay with a reserve price to find out what people are prepared to pay for it.
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Is a 51cm frame road bike the correct size for someone almost 6ft? Looking for some advice on my first road bike. I've had my eye on a Carerra Virtuoso for about 6 months now, they haven't budged from £350, however I've just spotted one on ebay second hand. None of my local stores have this bike in stock, otherwise I'd go sit on it to size it up. Being 5'11" (about 180cm) and 194 lbs, would I be too big/small for this bike? I currently have a 22" Carerra Kraken and that feels about right size wise Also, bearing in mind they are £350 new from halfords (and I have £50 halfords vouchers..), how much would be a reasonable bid? <Q> But there is no substitute for actually trying out the bike, or at least something similar to it. <S> and it's based on more than just the seat tube length. <S> Remember that a bike that's comfortable and fits you well will be more fun to ride. <S> Good fit is more important than weight or colour -- or even price -- so choose wisely. <A> I'm 5'8" and have ridden a 56cm frame (Kestrel) and now 54cm (Orbea). <S> Each manufacturer will fit differently based on the other tube lengths, the position of the seat stays, etc. <S> Darkcanuck's post from the website makes me think you may be ok, though it could be on the smaller side. <S> I prefer riding a frame on the smaller side though. <S> 51cm sounds really small though, not knowing the other details, so I wouldn't consider that your "normal" size for other bikes. <A> "Pubic Bone Height", basically your standover height, is the main measurement to consider when sizing a bike. <S> Not overall body height. <S> There are many other factors, <S> so until you sit a given geometry, you can't really know if fits you. <A> Depends on your inseam. <S> I'm 6' and typically ride a 58 or 59cm road frame, or a 19" mtn. frame. <S> My inseam is 33". <S> Your torso to inseam ratio matters a great deal, as some frames will have a longer top tube to seat tube ratio than others. <S> There is no substitute for a test ride. <A> I think it would be too small. <S> 22 inches is 56cm <S> so I think a 51cm. <S> frame would be too small for you. <S> I'm 183cm and use a 56cm. <S> road frame, that's approximately what you should be looking for. <S> You could enlarge the bike using longer seatpost and stem. <S> For mountain bike I use a 18 inches frame which fits me correctly too. <S> If I'm not wrong road and mountain bike frame sizes are calculated differently. <A>
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Your leg, arm and torso lengths all have an effect on how well any bike will fit you From the website: Large bottom bracket to top tube = 51cm which is equivalent to our standard 58cm frame 51cm sounds too small for you; 58cm might be ok or it could be too big. Someone nearing 6' should be on a 54-57cm frame, depending on reach, inseam and geometry. If you're about 6' and this is their "large" frame, instinct tells me it's probably the right fit.
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Does inseam of pants convert to stand over height of a bike? If I know my jeans size, for instance 32", 32", can I convert this into an estimate for standover height on a bike? <Q> This might not be a very good place to start from when sizing a bicycle. <S> Your feet go all the way to the floor. <S> Inseam is specifically to determine what pants you wear. <S> I might point out that pants and bicycles are made and sized quite differently. <S> Most LBS sales people will be more than happy to put you on a couple of bikes and let you take a test ride, even if you say, "I don't plan to buy anything today, I'm just starting to shop around." <S> It won't cost you anything <S> and you'll start to get a feel for how different styles of bikes feel in different sizes. <S> Note also that standover is not the only measure you need to size your bike. <S> The TOP TUBE length will also come into play--depending on how long your arms and torso are. <S> Different manufacturers build different bikes with different ratios of top-tube-to-stand-over. <S> At least, don't be surprised if you do so <S> and then it doesn't feel right. <S> Try out several actual bikes--even if they aren't ones you plan to actually buy <S> --so you know how those different geometries feel when you're riding. <S> AND IF YOU'RE LOOKING AT A USED BIKE... it still pays to try out some new ones and know what geometry suits you. <S> When you are negotiating with a seller of a used bike, show up with tape measure in hand! <A> It's close enough for a very rough guess, but in most cases (especially if using a sizing formula) you'll want to measure the distance from the ground right up to your pubic bone. <S> Unless your pants drag along the ground, you're inseam size <S> will be a bit shorter: somewhere in the range of 1-3" (as a guess). <S> You can get <S> this quickly measured at many road bike shops as part of the shopping process (i.e. it should be free). <A> The short answer is no. <S> For information on frame sizes and all things bikes, consult the late Sheldon Brown's website: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html <S> It's an incredible resource!
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Your inseam measurement is from the top of the crotch (top inseam point) to the BOTTOM SIDE OF THE ANKLE (lowest inseam point). Depending on the bike, you will also want to consider handle-bar width, crank-arm length, etc. Don't plan to buy a bike off of the internet because it has the right stand-over! As @darkcanuck suggested, you're better served to stop by a local bike shop (LBS) and have them size you.
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Are there brands that sell weather-resistant chains? I have to bike in bad weather and especially at work i have no way to store my bike in a dry place, this means that my bike chain picks up rust like nothing else, forcing me to clean it a lot. Now i'm wondering whether there are any brands of chains that are made for this kind of environment (and maybe cost a bit/lot more)? In other words: I'm looking for the quality product in the chain world that's in a similar place of status as a Brooks saddle in the saddle world. <Q> Lube your chain frequently. <S> As in every time it rains if you need to. <S> The same will hold with a Brooks saddle. <S> No matter how awesome it is, if it's exposed to poor conditions without proper maintenance, it will deteriorate quickly. <S> So lube your chain frequently, and dry it off whenever you get a chance before storing it. <S> Disclaimer: If you go riding around with tons of lube on your chain in dry, dusty conditions, you'll pick up lots of dirt in your drivetrain. <A> There is no way any chain will survive the winter salt and sand of the roads conbination they use in my coutry (Latvia). <S> Chains should be changed every 1000 miles, so just use cheaper chain in winter. <A> Titanium does not rust, but I'm pretty sure it still needs lubrication to prevent binding. <S> Also apparently public-hire bikes in London have chains with some kind of ceramic coating which need no lubrication; but they use 3 speed hub gears I think. <S> Also, note that with lubes, there is a trade-off between stickiness and longevity. <S> Waterproof marine grease would be incredibly resistant to washing off, but it would also pick up an incredible amount of dirt, which would have a negative effect on your drivetrain. <A> I live in a wet and rainy climate. <S> Portland, OR. <S> I just lube the chain regularly. <S> I buy replacements as needed during spring sales. <S> Cheapest ones I can get. <S> A local shop has an annual sale, and that's where I get chains. <S> One can easily spend anywhere from $8 to $60 on a chain. <S> I'm not a racer, but for commuting , I usually spend ~ $8 - $10 on the chain and swap it out annually or as needed. <S> No salt on the roads here. <S> Just wet; so I can't speak for places with salted winter roads. <A> Wax, my friend. <S> The initial time investment might be higher than squirting on oil, but it will last longer, cleaner and be easier in the end. <S> Here's a great description of how to do it: <S> http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/01/08/for-the-non-believers-in-the-crowd-chain-waxing-re-visited/ <A> Zinc coated chains apparently work well. <S> I've never used one (yet) <S> but they come highly recommended .
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Depending on the drive-train, you can get Shimano or SRAM chains at places like Nashbar or Performance Bike, but even top-of-the-line, expensive chains will get rusty if they're out in the rain all the time. I think you shoud use some midrange drivetrain components for the winter period and replace them in spring with whatever you prefer. You could try a stainless steel chain (Wipperman makes them), or if you have very deep pockets, a titanium chain - however I've not seen one for sale for a while.
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Is fluorescent clothing effective? I read recently that fluorescent clothing was not effective at all at night. If this is the case, how effective is it during the day, and should I stop buying tops that are fluorescent to use on my daily commute? <Q> There are several terms around this subject. <S> A key thing here is reflectivity (or more specifically retroreflectivity), rather than fluorescence. <S> Fluoresence is the property of a material where it absorbs light at one wavelength, e.g. ultraviolet sunlight, but then reflects back light from the visual spectrum. <S> This is most useful in daylight conditions, using the sunlight to create more human visible light. <S> Everything (well, almost everything ) is reflective to some degree, mostly diffuse reflection where light hits a surface and scatters, but this reflection goes in many directions and breaks apart into many wavelengths. <S> Alternatively there is a property called retroreflection which reflects light back to its source, in contrast to mirror (or specular) <S> reflection which just bounces off, as light does with a mirror, in a single opposing direction. <S> Hence a person near the light source, e.g. a driver in a car, sees the retroreflective surface. <S> Thus in terms of visibility, you don't just need flourescent material at night because there isn't enough light in the usable spectrum <S> , so a yellow jacket isn't going to be any more useful than a white t-shirt. <S> So while they'll both be more visible than something black, in order to stand out in a driver's headlights, you need retroreflective material to actively react, rather than passively reflect. <S> [Possibly related: visibility at night , using electroluminescent wire ] <A> The question asks how effective fluorescent clothes are during the day, and should he stop buying those tops for his daily commute. <S> Fluorescent clothing is very effective during the day, but not so much at night. <S> From <S> How Does Hi-Vis Clothing Work? <S> : <S> The main thing to remember is: “Fluorescent for daytime visibility, reflective for night” Fluorescent for Day <S> Did you know... <S> Fluorescent colours <S> help you to be seen in the daytime and near dusk. <S> They work really well in dull or rainy weather and when daylight is fading. <S> On a rainy day it's hard for drivers to see pedestrians and cyclists <S> so <S> it's a good idea to wear or carry something fluorescent. <S> Fluorescent colours look really bright because of the way they absorb and emit different kinds of light. <S> Many people don't realise it but... <S> fluorescent colours don't show up in the dark or 'glow in the dark'. <S> To be seen by drivers at night you need something reflective. <S> Different Fluorescent Colours <S> Lots of colours can be fluorescent and used for high vis clothing and bags, not just yellow but red, pink, green and orange too. <S> (These colours are listed on the EN1150 quality standard.) <S> In industry , yellow and orange fluorescent clothing is often worn under health and safety laws (for quality standard EN471). <S> You’ve probably seen police officers, postal workers, lorry drivers, builders and refuse collectors wearing these jackets. <S> Lifeboat crews have orange lifejackets; this colour shows up best against blue and grey water. <S> What colour were your armbands when you learnt to swim? <S> Horse-riders often wear pink as it is a colour not found often in nature and so shows up well against autumn leaves. <S> The Safe Lanes scheme in Mayfield, Sussex has even encouraged motorbike riders to wear fluorescent pink so they can be seen! <S> However... <S> The colour blue is not so effective for fluorescent clothing; because of its wavelength it is not good at <S> emitting light and the human eye is not so good at seeing blue generally. <S> So if you’ve got a blue school uniform <S> it’s a good idea to also wear or carry something fluorescent to make yourself seen . <S> And it continues about why reflective material is good for the night, but not during the day. <A> Fluorescent/Reflective clothing only help you if there is a light pointing at you from about the same direction as the driver is coming from. <S> The little light a fluorescent object will give out its self is not of any use as the car driver has the bright light from his/her headlights reflecting of the road just in front of his/her car. <S> Given that most people get knocked of bikes from the side, with car drivers pulling out, rather than from the back, it is very likely you will be outside of the car <S> ’s headlights beam at the crucial time you most wish to be seen. <S> So you need good lights! <S> However Fluorescent/Reflective clothing does help make you more visible and can make you show up a lot better in street lights. <S> It may also help you win the legal case if you knocked of.
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To be seen day, dusk and night you need something that is fluorescent and reflective.
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How do you deal with flats in the winter? I was lucky last winter I went the entire winter without getting a flat. I attribute it mostly to: sharp items on the road being hidden under snow and ice less agressive riding resulting in no blow out flats I am curious how other people deal with flats in the winter. Although I always carry a spare tube and CO2 I don't think I would be able to change a tire with bulky winter gloves on. Changing a tire gloveless is also not really an option. How do you deal with flats in the winter? <Q> Prevention (good tyres, good inflation, regular checks). <S> For most rides, walking isn't an option, while I do sometimes run my commute, I use the bike because generally I want to get home. <S> So a spare tube and CO2 is obligatory - with practice and a decent place to work (which can't always be guaranteed at the side of the road) I can change a tyre in less than five minutes. <S> If you're operating in a climate that regularly sees weather that's cold enough that five minutes without gloves is not an option, chapeau. <S> But I think I would be looking for run-flat options (e.g. goo) and some way to get me home quicker than on foot! <A> I walk. <S> I'm not being a smart arse. <S> I'd rather <S> the inconvenience of a walk rather than having to bring the necessary equipment with me every time, knowing the one time I forget is when I get a flat. <S> Granted <S> this could be difficult if distances are long <S> but I'd try and call in for help in that case. <S> Like yourself <S> I've managed the whole winter without a flat, yet! <A> When I was living in the North Country and it was cold... <S> like below zero for most of January... <S> I switched to puncture-resistant tubes. <S> I mean, I wasn't going for long rides. <S> I wasn't riding because it was a lot of fun <S> --it was transportation <S> and I was on a beater-mountain-bike with big knobbys, anyway. <S> The extra weight wasn't that big a deal. <S> The thick rubber tubes are heavy, but they keep your rims off of the pavement and you have to hit something serious to get a puncture. <S> In the spring, I took those damned things out of my tires and put lightweight tubes back in. <S> Nice thing about the heavy-rubber tubes is that they last for several winters. <S> For running back and forth to the grocery store, it worked fine. <S> So. <S> Answer to your question... <S> at -22F. Avoid changing a tube. <A> It doesn't work for everyone, but in my area I can take it on the train, taxi or just walk it home. <S> One of the advantages of having a small folder and living in a dense area. <A> I always carry good walking shoes with me. <S> If the bike fails on me for any reason, I can walk it the rest of the way.
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In colder weather (at or around freezing) I ride with thin liner gloves inside cold weather gloves and I find I can change a tyre with them still on; this both keeps the fingers slightly less cold, but also a little cleaner.
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Will my road bike fit in the racks on a public transit bus now that I have put fenders on it? I ride to work most days. If I'm getting a cold or something, I sometimes hop on the bus. I save no time by riding the bus, so I rarely do it. About a month ago, I installed Planet Bike full-coverage plastic fenders on my bike, a mid-80's Schwinn Tempo. I've got the Hardcore fenders. http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Hardcore-Road-Fender/dp/B002KCFSPI I'm pretty sure that the bike racks on public transit buses are fairly universal, in the U.S. anyhow. They appear to be the same on all of the transit buses I've used throughout California and in the Chicago area. Maybe there are different ones--but in these two areas they appear to be the same. http://bicycling.511.org/transit.htm My question is this. Will the fenders interfere with the bar that goes over the front wheel? I haven't tried it because I don't want to inconvenience other bus users by futzing with a bike that might not fit. <Q> Probably fine <S> I have a bike (Surly LHT) with 700c wheels, wide tires (35mm) and full fenders (I think same model, but next size up). <S> The local buses have 2 or 3 different types of rack, and it works on all of them. <S> I think this problem might have more to do with maintenance, since with otherwise identical racks some the arm pulls out far enough and <S> some it doesn't. <S> One caveat <S> : you have a choice between slowly damaging your fender by putting the arm over the fender, or possibly having a slightly less secure grip by putting it at the front tip of the fender. <S> On mine that bit of fender seems to be fine despite me smashing a bus rack arm on top of it frequently; worst case I could trim that off, since the bit of fender that sticks forward of the fork crown doesn't seem that essential. <S> Basically, the racks are designed to be able to handle the cruiser and commuter type bikes, and a road bike with fenders is a lot like that for these purposes. <S> There's a type of rack, but there's definitely some differences, so it's possible your bus bike racks are different somehow. <A> I've had my folder on the bus racks, with it's fenders, and it wasn't a problem. <S> But that's with smaller wheels than your Tempo, so I'm not sure if that really answers your question. <S> FWIW, the bar always seems to extend further than I need for the road bikes, so I don't see why it wouldn't extend enough to go past your fenders. <A> I just tried my new large-size cruiser bicycle on the bus yesterday and the front wheel fender wasn't damaged, but buses constantly transmit forces in varying directions from bumps, potholes, turns, accelerations, decelerations and braking, so my concern is regular use of the bus racks over time. <S> There's also a problem with the bike's back fender but it has to do with our light rail trains, not buses. <S> Our Minneapolis light rail trains have vertical racks inside each rail car (you hook the front wheel at the top and the bike's rear wheel fits into a vertical slot at floor level). <S> These vertical racks therefore put the entire weight of the bike, once secured in the rack, on the rear tip of its rear fender, bending the fender, stressing the fender brackets, possibly eventually breaking the fender's paint, and/or throwing the fender out of alignment. <S> I wish transit admin staff, bicycle designers and bicycle rack designers could all be locked in the same room when the engineering specs for these vital accessories are put into a Request for Proposal.
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On some of the 3-bike racks it's difficult to get the arm over the tire in the middle rack, but the fender isn't really a problem; usually I can just move it to the front rack if it happens to be one of those busses.
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Best place to shop for parts in Canada (used parts) What is the best place to buy bike components that will ship to Canada? I would prefer a Canadian company or someone who ships within Canada to avoid large shipping costs and inport duty. I am especially interested in buying used components. Right now I am interested in buying: Some non-indexed bar end shifters for my road bike A mountain bike fork with disk breaks and no suspension Where would be the best place to look for this? I have tried my local craigslist postings but these items are too specific. I have also looked in my local bike shop but buying these parts new will cost more than buying an entire new bike. I like to do most of my own work and being a student I have a fairly small budget. Where would you look for these parts? <Q> Have a look at PinkBike's Buy/Sell pages . <S> This is a site for hard-core bikers, there are always parts of various qualities and conditions up for sale. <A> While not 100% on topic, if you are in southern Ontario, consider the Toronto International Bike Show every year around the first few weeks of March. <S> (It usually conflicts with a half marathon in Burlington, Ontario, the Chili Half, so I often have done both!). <S> Usually it is in the CNE grounds. <S> They have a ton of local bike stores there trying to sell new stuff, but also clear out anything left in the store. <S> I have gotten an excellent series of deals, year after year. <S> I now live in New Jersey near NYC, and I wish they had the equivalent here! <S> Alas, I have yet to find anything similar. <A> It can take you to a site that has what you want. <S> Here's an example: <S> Just today, I did a Google search for toronto used | second-hand | preowned | pre-owned folding bike . <S> And indeed, the first Google hit took me to a local classifieds site where someone currently has a used folding bike for sale. <S> Google knows everything.
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If you want to buy locally, and you're looking for uncommon parts or an uncommon bicycle, try a Google web search.
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Why would hydraulic disk-brakes become sluggish in cold winter? Just an incident or due to the cold? Related question , I haven't bled the brakes (again a possible error). I bought the bike as second-hand and the seller said that the mineral oil cannot be the problem. He said that the mineral oil in the brakes is one-year-old and his dealer instructed to buy a new bike (so I got mine 2-3 years old, driven 10k km). I cannot really trust the words so the rear brakes (no problem with front brakes) may have discolored oil, a thing to watch for according to Shimanos' guide . The caliper is Shimano BR-M485 , and apparently other parts are proper (not verified), original Crescent Sport bike brakes apparently (not verified). I haven't yet checked that the brake pads are over 0.5mm as instructed but I feel it is not the problem, speculating. So possible errors: not bleed the air from the brake system discolored oil not tighted some knob(?) too worn-out pads weather: perhaps some water in the tank and it freezes or oil vaporizing unknown factor (?) So why would you hydraulic brakes stop working in cold weather? The question is a bit confusing -- the problem started during cold winter and it persists in room temperature. I have earlier repaired inner hubs so is the procedure the same: break thing up to logical pieces and then follow Shimanos insructions or have you found better ways to repair broken hydraulic disk brakes? Again, the term broken is ambigous, the brakes work in a way that you need to press a lot more but now they feel loose (not with the front brake). Could someone explain what the term bleeding here actually mean? Must I really use Shimanos' mineral oil and not some cheap substitute? Which minimum equipments are needed to repair|maintain the-brakes? Tips to maintain the disk-brakes on low budget welcome. <Q> Hydraulics are the same for car brakes, as for these style brakes, as anywhere else in the physical universe. <S> Liquids have an amusing property that they do not compress well, if at all. <S> (They do of course compress, but not very much in the grand scheme of things, and it takes a lot of pressure to noticeably compress them). <S> Thus your hand started breaking force is transmitted direct to the brake, through the medium of the fluid. <S> If the fluid is getting viscous, due to cold weather, it might become thicker, and thus less responsive to your hand pressure. <S> Bleeding in this context means to release any trapped air inside the hydraulic cylinder. <S> Same as in car brakes. <S> First the air compresses, absorbing much of the energy being applied to brake, <S> until finally the liquid starts to transmit the energy. <A> If you lubed the chain, derailleur, hub or whatever and some of it went to the disk and not cleaned up properly. <S> It can have damaged the brake pads and hence they not braking properly. <S> If that was the case, the solution would be cleaning the disk and polishing or replacing the brake pads. <A> it happened to me too. <S> i bought a brand new bike from a local store, and the rear brakes had a leakage, so all the rotors where covered in mineral oil.it doesn't matter how much you clean your brake pads <S> , it wont go very easily.i <S> sank the pads in water and then boiled for a couple of minutes, i burnt the pads over the oven, and with alcohol. <S> then i sanded the pads with a very thin grit and finally rode the bike braking only with rear's of course, also cleaned the rotor almost every day for a week with alcohol. <S> After 3 months, the noise stopped and the pads are getting much sticky and more sensible to the finger, but if you don't want to go through all that, just buy new pads AND CLEAN PERFECTLY THE ROTORS. <S> it's only a matter of pads contamination, its OIL, that's why. <S> sorry for my english, and good luck <A> There's an outside chance <S> it's frozen cables. <S> Definitely not the likeliest problem, but if you run through everything else and it's still happening...
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It could also be a problem of some product having been applied to the disk, for example: lubricant. The reason to bleed air out of the system is that air compresses very nicely, thank you, unlike a liquid, and so destroys the hydraulic principle in use.
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What should my first adult bike have? I bike a lot and I'm looking to spend £400-800 on a full size bike. It must have full suspension, detachable front wheel, preferably room for a minipump and a large water bottle (without using the far bottom side of the frame). I see this is close to a discussion, but I think there are some obvious answers I'm overlooking. Bike or shop suggestions welcome. Update: I commute (half off-road), use the canals, in-town and between-town roads, and a lot of off-roading. I would like to be able to manage my bike well, hopefully learn to do more than just replace tyres/tubes. It will occasionally be carried by car. I use bike lanes, pavements and the middle of the road fairly equally. How complex are softer drivetrains and disc brakes? I'm not familiar with either of them. <Q> £ <S> so if you are in the UK, check out Edinburgh bike coop if there's one near you. <S> Definitely get disc brakes. <S> Opinions on full suspension bikes differ - it used to be said that if your are spending less than $1000 don't get it. <S> But I don't do extreme downhill <S> so don't really know. <S> Most mountain bikers use camelbacks rather than water bottles because off road the bottles get covered in dirt (=cow shit) and you catch lurgy and die. <S> You can always add a water bottle holder later. <A> Even with lots of good advice, it takes a while to get to know what bike works best for you. <S> Each person's body is different , so getting a good fit is difficult. <S> And getting a good fit has a huge impact on the joy of riding, which makes the difference between the ride you can't wait to start vs. the ride you talk yourself out of. <S> Get a tuneup right away, as there are a few safety and longevity issues with neglected bikes. <S> Once you have that, you can adjust the handlebars & seat to fine-tune the fit. <S> I like a great drivetrain . <S> Smooth shifting under load is wonderful to ride. <S> I'm not too picky about brakes, as long as they work. <A> It's sounds like you're committed to a full suspension bike. <S> But, I worry you won't find a quality bike for that price range, and you may end up with a heavy bike that will be a drag when you're on the road. <S> You could consider <S> the Boardman Team Mountain Bike: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_501999_langId_-1_categoryId_165499 <S> They've got a full suspension version, but that'll take you over your £800 limit.
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Getting the right frame is the most important thing, as it affects everything else, and is the hardest to change. Start with a used bike . Look for one that has been stored out of the rain, and where the wheels don't wobble when you spin them. You can get a good quality hard-tail for that price range that might suit you well.
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Alternatives to trailers for transporting young children A representative in Oregon has recently introduced a bill that would prohibit children under the age of six from riding in bicycle trailers . While it is far too early to tell whether this bill will pass, and what the final law would look like if it did, I am curious what alternatives to bike trailers people can recommend. I don't have kids myself, but I grew up riding around in a bike trailer, and know people who do have children and use trailers like these. I am particularly interested in suggestions for families with multiple young children, since one reason my family loved bike trailers was because it could easily fit two of us at once. If this law were to pass, what alternatives would be available? <Q> Followed some links from your links and found the actual text of the law , which summarizes the law as: Prohibits person from carrying child under six years of age on bicycle or in bicycle trailer. <S> Elsewhere in Oregon law, a bicycle is defined as: [a human-powered vehicle] designed to travel with not more than three wheels in contact with the ground. <S> So a unicycle, bicycle and tricycle are all covered by the proposed law. <S> There's also a wheel-size provision in the definition, which makes me suspect that too small of wheels or 4 of them puts you in a category like skateboards that probably aren't allowed on the road. <S> So I think you simply have no solution if that law passes as written. <S> Everything I've ever seen for using a bicycle to transport a child constitutes "on bicycle" or "in trailer". <S> Even if you devised some clever sidecar or push-cart mechanism to get around the letter of the law, I doubt that would work. <S> But just in case it's useful <S> , there was an earlier question along these lines that I think covers all the answers you could be looking for: Recommendations for Transporting Twins On The Front of a Bike Basic summary: <S> Common in Netherlands, rare in the US. <S> Search for "cargo bike" in your area <S> (I know there's bikes of this type made in Portland, OR) <S> Next best is probably a long-tailed bike, such as an extracycle, especially if you can get seats designed for that use <S> (you could combine this one with any of the other options) <S> Trailers are pretty darned good for carrying children. <A> Try Christiania bikes from Denamrk, if they an be delivered where you live: <A> One of the best reference articles on the topic of children and bicycles is Family Biking Ages and Stages from the Totcycle.com blog. <S> A bakfiets is great for the youngest rides because a the child rides in front of you, so you can make eye-contact. <S> A rear-facing carseat can be strapped in, and the center of gravity is down low, and the baby is further protected by a wooden box as well. <S> I took my 3 month old soon for his first bike ride in our bakfiets today. <A> I've been pretty happy with a connector piece between my bike and a small kid's bike. <S> I even did two cycling holidays with it. <S> The brand I used was "follow me" which made for a particularly solid connection. <S> Some pictures (spiced up with unreadable Dutch text): http://reinout.vanrees.org/ligfiets/follow-me.html
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There's child seats that mount on a bike rack behind you child seats that mount on the handlebars in front of you Coolest option is a bucket bike (long wheelbase with a big box built in).
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How do I separate hydraulic disc brake pads after pulling the brake while the wheel is off? I take the front wheel off my mountain bike to get it in my car. When I get it out and try to put the front wheel back on, the space between the brake pads isn't wide enough for the rotor. Whoops! I must have pulled the lever on my hydraulic brakes. How can I separate the the pads without damaging them? <Q> Just put the screwdriver between the pads and lever the pads apart evenly! <S> Just be carful though as sometimes the pistons that push the pads out can come out too far resulting in the pistons being slighly out of line <S> , however if the pads have plenty of material left on them you should be fine to just lever them back in with the screwdriver, ther will be some resistance as you will also be pushing against the pistons and fluid pressure. <A> I've used a (clean) drywall putty knife. <S> The blade is wider than a screwdriver, so there's less chance of gouging the pads. <S> Slide the knife in between the pads, twist and pry a bit, and they open right up. <A> I just had to look this up for a friend, who accidentally completely closed them. <S> The recommended way, taken from "Zinn and the art of Mountain Bike Maintenance" is as follows. <S> "Sometimes <S> the pads in hydraulic disc brakes can rub because the pistons get pushed out too far, especially if the lever is applied without a rotor or spacer between the pads. <S> You will have to push the pistons back in, usually by removing the pads and pushing the pistons back in with a plastic tire lever. <S> On Hayes, the only thing pulling the pistons back in is the reversal of the twist the pistons apply to square-cross-section o-ring seals surrounding the waist of each piston, so the pistons tend to stay out too far once there. <S> Pull out the pads, carefully push the pistons back in with the box end of a 10mm wrench(avoid pressing on the pin sticking out of the piston, which hooks the wire catch on the back of the pad), and replace the pad" <A> You could try blowing them with air to remove any dust particle that may prevent them for separating completely. <S> If that's not enough you can use a "flat" screwdriver. <S> When you have the screwdriver between the pads turn it carefully not to damage the brake pads and separate them a little bit. <A> I found this video to be extremely helpful in understanding the problem and solving it: I fixed my similar situation by removing my disc brake pads and pushing against the pistons behind them with a flat head screw driver. <S> Using a credit card (or similar) to push against the pads wasn't enough for me.
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As mentioned try a blunt bladed instrument (A large flat blade screwdriver will do) to pry the pads back in.
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What are compact cranks? In overheard in a post ride discussion this morning about wanting a set of compact cranks. My search on bicycles.se has only found this question with them in the title, but the answers don't mention exactly what they are. Are they similar to the old biopace cranks? <Q> They probably weren't talking about the cranks per-se, but the whole crankset, which is the cranks and the chainrings. <S> Compacts are cranksets with smaller chainrings (typically 50 teeth and 34 teeth) as opposed to standard cranksets which have say 52:42. <S> Combined with wide-range cassette this can give a good range of gears without having to have a triple-ring. <S> Biopace were oval rings - you can get non-round chainrings for either compact or regular cranksets. <S> Note that the cranks themselves do come in different lengths to account for different leg-lengths, but this is independent of the chainring diameter. <A> There are 3 size aspects to a crankset (and, of course, lots of variations between product lines as far as materials, color, price, etc.). <S> The length of the crankarms, usually around 170mm +/- <S> 2.5mm increments--these are the same with both normal and compact cranksets <S> The diameter of the bolt circle to attach the chainrings--compact are 110mm, regular are 130mm <S> The number of teeth on the chainrings (and this is the whole reason for a compact crankset, to allow smaller chainrings). <S> Most compact cranksets are sold with 34-tooth and 50-tooth rings (referred to as 50x34), whereas most regular cranksets are currently sold with 53x39 combinations. <S> You can also purchase other chainrings, but those are by far the most common. <A> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html <A> Technically speaking, a compact crank is one with a smaller bolt circle diameter (110mm) than the standard road crankset, which has a 130mm or 135mm BCD. <S> This allows a crankset to have an inside chainring smaller than 39 teeth, which is the smallest that a standard will fit before the teeth hit the chainring bolts. <S> It allows a better climbing range, and when combined with an 11 tooth rear cog it is actually faster than the 53/12 combination standard on a "standard double" crank.
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It's a crankset that allows the use of smaller chainrings e.g 110mm rather than the more common 130 mm.
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What kind of tires should I buy for an e-bike, commuting on maintained off-road? I need to buy a new front tire for my new e-bike. Let me give you a few of the conditions I'll be riding in, and I'd like your advice. First of all, this bike is primarily going to be used to commute to work. I live near an airport, and my work is on the other side of the airport. The consequence of that is that I have to ride 5 miles along a 55 mph road. It doesn't have a bike lane, but there is a large path of gravel right next to the road, which I will most likely use extensively. I should also say that I would like an affordable tire, but I am willing to invest more in a tire that will last me for longer. If you'd like to see my bike, see this question . It's pretty obvious that the front tire is quite flat, and in fact, it just needs to be replaced... EDIT: Here's a few pictures of the current tires. <Q> A fat tire will let you "float" over the surface instead of sinking in, like a snowshoe. <S> If you're sinking, it takes tremendous effort to keep riding, and you can't really steer. <S> Gravels vary widely . <S> Coarse-edged crushed rock locks together to create a firm, traffic-bearing surface. <S> Round-edged "pea gravel" shifts under load, dispersing energy <S> - this is good under playground equipment. <S> There are different sizes, and some are mixed while others are consistently-sized. <S> Which one you're on will have an effect on what kind of tire you need. <S> I like to choose the fattest tire that works well in my frame / under my fenders. <S> I avoid knobbies because I think they have way higher rolling resistance and wear out faster. <S> Since you're already hauling a battery, you can definitely afford the weight of the rubber. <S> Also, if you ever find yourself in ground that's too loose <S> and you can't steer, shift your weight back. <S> Unweighting the front wheel will let it steer without sinking. <A> Has the tyre perished? <S> Perhaps, it's just an inner tube that needs replacing. <S> Take the tyre to your local bike shop <S> and I'm sure they'll be able to suggest a suitable alternative. <S> I'd ask for a plain road tyre, something pretty standard should do, just as long as it's the correct size. <S> You don't need nobbly or off-road tyres unless you're trying to get over obstacles such as rocks or travel through mud. <A> I fitted hybrid tyres to my ebike and road speed improved, while track speed was unchanged. <S> Sadly its gone now <S> so I can't show a photo. <S> There was a slight knobbly pattern to the shoulders of the tread, but the bare face had a solid line of flat rubber all the way around. <S> So when riding straight and vertical, it was a slick. <S> When the ground was a little irregular, or when cornering the small lugs had a chance to bite. <S> Cornering on the road stayed mostly on the ring of rubber though, so it was not squirmy. <S> Downside, the pressures were 80 PSI , which took ages to get to on a 1.75" tyre. <S> Plus it was a bumpy ride <S> should the road be less than smooth. <S> The weight of my batteries would have contributed too. <S> Edit : Do be aware that ebikes are heavy. <S> So my 17 kg MTB had another 26 kg of batteries on it, plus me and my gear. <S> When carrying my work toolbag of 20 kilos plus me, that's ~165 kilograms. <S> Handling is definitely affected by the mass, so your tyres have to cope with the full load. <A> Just a seconding for Jay's response that "gravels vary widely". <S> A number of cyclocross style tyres have a file-type central pattern, with more pronounced knobs around the edges for when traction is important. <S> Such a pattern might be good for your commuting requirements, if you are expecting a degree of loose gravel. <S> In my experience, ebike setups can place some additional wear on tires and can slip during acceleration (so need good grip). <S> I note that some manufacturers are introducing ebike specific tires, though I'm not sure on the value of these variations (haven't had a chance to look into them further).
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In general, the softer the ground, the bigger the tire should be. I had Marathon Plus tires on an ebike and these worked quite well and balanced grip with rolling resistance/low wear (front wheel drive, 20").
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How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing? My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry. Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me. <Q> Squealing can be reduced by "toe-in" - making the front part of the brake pad touch first. <S> Check out <S> Park Tool's instructions on servicing side-pull brakes: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service Squealing is the result of a harmonic resonance from a slip-and-stick phenomenon, similar to how a violin bow resonates on a string. <S> The brake pads grab the rim and are pulled forward by the force of the wheel. <S> The arms must at sometimes jerk backwards, but if you are still braking, the arms are flexed forward again. <S> This is repeated again and again many times per second, and this creates the squeal. <S> Because of this, flexible and less expensive arms tend to squeal more than stiff calipers of better brakes. <S> This tends to reduce the back and forth jerking of the arms. <S> But before you go trying to toe-in, make sure you're working with parts in good shape: <S> Examine your brake pads . <S> If they are old and hard, worn deeply, or full of junk, replace them. <S> Otherwise, use coarse sandpaper to take off the surface to bring out fresh rubber. <S> You only need to take off a tiny bit. <S> Clean your rims . <S> Road grime, bike lubes, and brake material all collect on your rims. <S> Rubbing alcohol, vinegar, Simple Green, a product marketed as "degreaser" can all work. <S> Don't let any get on the drivetrain or in the hubs. <S> Also, you'll need rags. <S> True your wheels . <S> There's no point in trying to adjust brakes on a wheel that isn't true (round and dished is good, too). <S> And you can't true a wheel if the hubs aren't in good shape. <A> Jay's answer covers most of it <S> and you should start with his suggestions ( <S> toe-in and greasy rims are big culprits). <S> I'll only add two things: Brake pad type can sometimes make a difference. <S> Kool-stop "salmon" pads are widely recommended to reduce problematic squeals. <S> Some bike setups are more prone to squealing, even with clean rims, new salmon pads and perfectly aligned brakes. <S> It's very unusual <S> but I had this problem on a previous bike (V-brakes on a carbon fork). <A> My bike with pull brakes, squeal like crazy... <S> New pads, clean rims, adjusted well, still squeal. <S> Roughed up pads, still squeal. <S> Now I put alittle baby powder on each side of Rim, just a dusting. <S> Fixed my brakes, stops good and no squeals. <A> The above answers cover the critical information, but I'd add that some brakes make "toe in" adjustment easy (offset washers, or other means). <S> Some brakes require that you bend/twist the arms. <S> For the latter, I'd recommend your local bike shop mechanic... <S> if for no other reason that brakes are important safety equipment, and are therefore worth being looked at by a pro. <A> Another cause for the noisy brakes is the brake pads not being fully tightened. <S> In my experience such noise is more commonly seen in cantilever brakes whose mechanism is well explained by Jay Bazuzi's response. <A> Painted wheel rims causes the squealing.
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It is possible to reduce squeal by having the leading edge of the brake pad strike first. You can try rubbing it down with sandpaper or just wait for it to wear down... hence why the talc works! I put a little baby power in palm of hand, take finger, dab in powder and rub some on the rim, each side.
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I've got numerous bikes, bike frames, wheels, etc.that I'd like to donate I have many old bikes, parts, specific tools, etc. Where can I give them to? <Q> The best option would be to find a local bicycle co-op and offer them the parts. <S> (They would probably welcome bikes, rims, and tools.) <S> You may not be near a co-op; if that's the case, there are numerous "pay it forward" threads on bicycle forums, but you'd end up paying postage; useful for small or esoteric parts. <S> (I've given away a lot of stuff that way.) <S> You could also try Freecycle , but since that's more of a general audience, I doubt many people on those lists would even know what, say, a bottom bracket is , let alone how to use it. <S> For giving away a complete working bike, this might be an excellent option. <S> (Hey, their logo includes a guitar and a bike!) <A> BikeWorks3709 S. Ferdinand St. <S> Seattle, WA 98118, USA Bike Works <S> (See comments for more info.) <A> If they're parts then they'll probably be glad of them, if they're frames then they'll probably only take them if they're not aluminium. <S> You can never have too many tools. <S> Alternatively, depending on how much stuff you've got buy an arc welder and build your own trike or recumbent - plans here: Atomic Zombie Extreme Machines <A> I would just look for ads and/or post an ad on craigslist/kijiji. <S> I just saw an ad last week for someone looking for "old bike parts in any condition". <S> I kept the parts that I knew I could fix and that I would need and dropped the rest off to him. <A> In the Chicago area, donate those parts to Working Bikes Cooperative. <S> Working Bikes is a 501c3 non-profit with the goal of diverting used bicycles and parts from the waste stream. <S> Bikes and parts are redistributed to partners in developing countries, primarily in Africa and Central America; to local partners in Chicago; and sold as the means to fund the organization. <S> www.workingbikes.org for more info. <S> Working Bikes has drop off locations in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana and more.
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If you've tried all of the charities and bike co-ops in your area and are still left with a pile of parts, you could try offering them (free or for a nominal charge) to the bike hackers over on the Atomic Zombie Forums (or somewhere similar).
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Is there a recycling program that accepts unrepairable inner tubes? The local bike shop, not the wealthiest operation, has a pile of dead inner tubes growing on the floor. I'd love to discover something where used inner tubes are repurposed, melted down, made into something else. Similar to how e-waste is harvested and repurposed. We have need for only so many rubber bands and so many bungees. <Q> http://alchemygoods.com/ <S> They recycle inner tubes into usable products, and will give you credit towards their products for recycling. <A> How about recycling them yourself? <S> Here are some ideas posted on the brilliant BikeHacks website. <S> Shoelaces, wallet, yarn, handlebar tape, top tube passenger seat, dog lead, Maglite handlebar attachment, rack, key chain bling, bike bell, <S> repaired bike seat... <A> <A> Somewhat off topic <S> but when I was 13 (or something like that) I went to a scout summer camp. <S> A bike shop had given the camp a big pile of used tubes. <S> It was Awesome. <S> We made tonnes of stuff with them that summer including giant sling shots between two trees. <S> I am not sure <S> but maybe an ad on kijiji or craigslist could find a home for these. <A> See http://www.ibike.org/environment/recycling/ for organizations that ship bikes to 3rd world countries. <S> I am a member of the Village Bicycle Project in Seattle WA we collect bikes and parts including usable tires and inner tubes. <S> Inner tubes with no worse than a simple puncture are accepted. <S> We do not encourage making usable inner tubes into designer handbags. <A> I've seen a number of local bike shops that were running programs to recycle old tires and tubes. <S> They never seem to keep running for a long time though, so it strikes me that there's some sort of problem with those, otherwise they'd keep going. <S> I suppose it's worth asking your LBS? <A> Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes. <S> If the store also sell the green guru gear they get a discount off the wholesale price and the will alternately pay for the shipping. <S> They have a pretty good price point too. <S> They will pick up anywhere in Colorado and have quite a few places to drop tubes in California and also in Minneapolis and near Charlotte, NC. <S> I think they are in REI and MEC now. <A> I have a way to repurpose them, but recycling is a hard thing to come by. <S> Right now its just a local project called Bicycle Re-Cycle, in Austin, TX but open for ideas and poeple willing to help make a difference. <S> check out http://bicycle-recycle.com/
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MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so i'm guessing REI in the states also will
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How can I make a weather-proof bike? Suppose want to park my bike outdoors all the time. Conventional wisdom is that you should park a bike under cover, but suppose that's not an option. What should you do? Maybe sealed cartridge bearings would be better than cone-and-cup? Maybe belt- or shaft-drive, or at least a full chain guard to keep rain off the chain? Maybe a treatment to protect the tire rubber? <Q> Steel frames are strong and durable, but can rust; aluminum would be a better option. <S> (Carbon fiber or titanium won't rust, but these are expensive enough not to want a bike left outside for security's sake.) <S> An internal hub is sealed and will eliminate most drivetrain problems, especially if you don't use a front derailer. <S> In addition, cleaning an internal-hub-only drivetrain is faster than on a traditional dual-derailer setup. <S> Downsides: A bit more expensive, and removing the rear wheel to change a flat is a little more complex. <S> Full fenders will go a long way towards keeping your drivetrain (and you) clean. <S> Anything made of leather will not wear well (mostly saddles, grips, and bags) <S> so you would do best to avoid it on an outdoors-dedicated steed. <S> Attachment hardware , such as screws holding stuff like racks, fenders, shifters, brake levers and so on will rust. <S> It's a good idea to keep an eye on this, cleaning or replacing as needed. <S> Screw threads will sometimes also rust, so keep an eye on that. <S> Also, frequent cleaning in general will help enormously. <S> Much of the above can get expensive. <S> If you don't ride far or fast, there's the opton of finding a cheap, used bike and replacing it at the end of the season; used bikes can be found fairly easily if you're not picky. <A> You might enjoy reading David Hembrow's analysis of regular Dutch bikes: http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html Like the URL says: anatomy of a reliable everyday bike. <S> Things like fenders and a fully-enclosed chainguard. <S> Hub gear instead of derailler. <S> Enclosed brakes. <A> How about a stainless steel chain ? <S> Also if you could remove the saddle and seat post inside and cover the hole that would help. <S> You don't want to consider some kind of bike cover ? <A> Static fork. <S> The are both cheep and low-maintenance. <S> Here's what happens to a low-end suspension fork, after being left for a winter in the rain & snow (my workplace had not garage/bike shelter).
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As icc97 has recommended , a stainless steel chain might be helpful, but replacing a chain is very inexpensive if you do it regularly. A chain guard isn't a bad idea, but a lot of the gunk that gets caught in the drivetrain is kicked up by the tires.
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I often get a sore neck when riding. How can I adjust the setup of my bike to help prevent this happening? Quite often if I'm riding for longer than about an hour I get a sore neck. I assume that I can make some adjustment to my mountain bike to help prevent or reduce the soreness, but I don't know what. Can anyone help? EDIT I think my riding position is more upright than leaned forward, but I couldn't say how much because I don't have a feel for it. <Q> I can think of a few possible explanations: If you're sitting too upright, vibrations from the road/trail (anything from pavement quality to serious potholes) will travel straight up your spine, causing your the gaps between your vertebrae to expand and contract. <S> This can add up on a long ride. <S> Ideally you want to be leaning forward enough that your back has at least a slight arch to it so that your muscles absorb the impact instead of your spine. <S> If you're riding with your elbows locked, or letting your shoulders sag <S> then again you're letting your inflexible skeleton take the shocks instead of letting your muscles do the work. <S> If you're leaned too far forward, then you'll constantly be craning your neck upwards to see the road ahead. <S> The solution here is to raise your handlebars and/or shorten the stem length. <S> Finally, long rides require stretching out muscles that tend to get stay in the same position all the time. <S> This is especially true for your upper body and neck. <S> If I didn't stretch my neck periodically, I'd be a mess after a 10+ hour ride! <S> Sheldon Brown also has some excellent tips on neck pain & riding posture . <A> I have a similar problem, and there's one thing that oddly affects it: <S> Whether I wear prescription glasses or contact lenses. <S> With my glasses, I have to bend my neck a little more to see the road ahead, and this has an effect on rides longer than an hour. <S> With contacts, I normally also don sports sun shades, which have a wider field of view and don't make me bend the neck so much. <S> Something to consider. <A> When you ride a motorcycle or bicycle you have your neck in a chin up posture. <S> When most people walk which is most of the time or sit and work at a desk (the rest of the time), either walking or sitting you are in a chin down posture. <S> I learned this riding a motorcycle cross country 7-8 hours a day for 2 weeks. <S> Your body will learn over time that your neck muscles can re-train themselves. <S> Don't try going (if your a guy) to Home Depot for 2 hours and walking around looking up and not have a sore neck. <S> Some people with bad posture look at their feet when walking, they will suffer when riding the most! <S> Just my 2 cents. <S> Pm
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Either stop to stretch or learn how to some basic stretches while riding. Suspension (either rear or a sprung saddle/seatpost) can help here too. Try riding in a chin down using the top of your eyes or focusing up a little with your chin down.
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How can I get started building a bicycle? Now that I've been riding a while, I'm interested in building my own bike. In this case, it will be a bike for commuting and getting around town. It will probably be a flipflop fixie/single gear, but the kind of bike isn't important to this question. What resources (books, web sites, magazines, shops) do you recommend for information about building a bicycle from scratch? <Q> In particular: sheldonbrown: how-to-fixed-conversion sheldonbrown: fixed-conversion Loads of general wrenching info at Park Tool <S> Look out for a bike co-op or skills-sharing non-profit/community organization. <S> They may run classes and provide parts and tools. <A> Although it's mostly geared towards chopping up existing (steel) frames and converting the resultant bits into either recumbents, trikes, quads, electric bikes or choppers, there's a fair bit of generally useful info at the Atomic Zombie site and in their forums . <S> Atomic Zombie's Bicycle Builder's Bonanza <S> Some other books include: Bicycling Science Bicycle Design: <S> The Search for the Perfect Machine (Richard's Cycle Books) <S> Art of Wheelbuilding <A> Is there a bike co-op near where you live? <S> Many offer classes. <S> It's a great way to learn hands-on how to build bikes and breathe new life into old steeds. <S> Also: So far, no one at any local bike shop has turned me down when I've expressed interest in learning and asked if I could watch them build bikes and ask a few questions. <S> Seeing the process demystifies it and makes it seem doable. <A> Second, print out a sheet of common torque values and keep it handy. <S> There's one at the link above. <S> You can destroy parts by over-tightening and you can build a bike that'll fall apart underneath you by under-tightening. <S> Get yourself a maintenance manual . <S> They're the best reference when trying to build out a bike. <S> Some co-workers that I used to ride with <S> and I pitched in for a set that we kept at the office <S> and we'd come in on the weekend to work on bikes. <S> I know I just recommended paper manuals, but I found it helpful to download installation instructions for components and use my PDF viewer to zoom in on the diagrams . <S> The printed ones are too small for my eyes to really see small details which might help you tell whether parts that come in pairs have any chirality to them. <S> Finally, take your time . <S> Don't plan to start building out your first bike 2 weeks before a tour. <S> Start getting parts and working on it early and try to do anything that might require specialized tools or skills like reaming or press-fitting first. <S> Some things like prepping a head tube will probably require a trip to your LBS. <A> Check out the classes at bikeschool.com. <S> Excellent frame building classes, and great mechanics classes as well. <A> If you're after a book on bicycle building you may want to have a look at this one <S> http://www.timpaterek.com/ <S> It is meant to be quite a comprehensive resource. <S> Am considering buying for myself.
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And of course a friendly local bike shop. The same couple who run the Atomic Zombie site also have a couple of bike building books out: Bike, Scooter, and Chopper Projects for the Evil Genius First, get yourself a decent torque wrench with allen head bits in all the sizes you use for bike parts. My main resources for pretty much anything include: Sheldon Brown "Zinn and the Art of {Road,Mountain} Bike Maintenance" are much shorter (and cheaper) alternatives and are fine if you're using fairly standard components. If you can afford a used copy of Barnett's Manual , you should have them available. The web is a great resource, but professionally edited manuals organize information far better than any mailing list.
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Should I feel self-conscious wearing cycling shorts to school? I cycle to school and intend to wear my new Lycra shorts for my commute as they are much more comfortable. But I want to know if I will look dumb wearing the tight shorts, as my legs are only average and I'm only 15, and also if it will be weird stripping down to no underwear when I get changed in the locker room at school. <Q> I'm currently a senior in high school, so I understand your concern about style. <S> In my opinion, and that of all my friends, wearing lycra shorts to school looks ridiculous, no offense. <S> I don't know how far your commute is, but when I take my road bike to school, it's only 3 miles, so I just wear regular shorts and bring another t-shirt I can throw on <S> so I'm not all sweaty and throw a pair of sneakers into my bag <S> so I'm not stuck wearing cleats all day. <S> If you have a longer commute, just put a pair of basketball shorts on over your lycra shorts. <S> It looks good, feels fine, and others can't even tell you have lycra shorts on underneath them. <S> Baggy cycling shorts don't look much better than lycra when you're in high school, even just for your commute. <S> I've done the same thing plenty of times. <S> If you're self-conscious about it, you can always use a shower stall or something so you have some privacy. <A> Unless you are travelling really far (5+ miles) or going for some kind of home to school time trial record, just wear your regular clothes (tuck your trousers into your socks if need be) and cycle a little slower. <S> Too many people are too obsessed with racing their bikes places, but if you think of cycling as a faster and more efficient way of walking then you'll get on just fine. <A> Change out of the Lycra ones in a toilet cubicle if you are concerned. <S> You can also buy baggy cycling specific shorts which have many of the advantages of Lycra based ones but without the concern about showing off your entire package. <S> A quick google for "baggy cycling shorts" found me loads of hits, top of which was this page from <S> Wiggle a UK cycling shop. <S> For instance here are some possibilities: <A> When should you wear cycling clothing? <S> When your destination is so far, that you can't do the trip comfortably in normal clothing. <S> You should be aware that different saddles can also make a difference I have one for rides below 40km - this one is really comfortable. <A> I would suggest not wearing cycling shorts to school simply because you're going to wear them out much quicker as well as likely developing butt pimples. <S> The chamois in the shorts act like a sponge, a sweaty, greasy, bacteria filled sponge. <S> Sweat will break down the elastic in your shorts, the longer you wait to wash them, the more likely they are to begin breaking down. <S> I commuted approx 9 miles a day to work via bike. <S> I started wearing cycling shorts in the beginning then decided it wasn't worth it. <S> I still wore shorts to work on hot days, non-cycling shorts, as I didn't want to wear them out. <S> Purchased a cheap used bike with a seat that allowed me to ride without cycling specific shorts. <S> In the end, you certainly can wear your shorts to school, but most people don't have the same perspective as us cyclists and wouldn't understand the need for them, thus you'll probably get some remarks. <A> Rivendell has a lot of non-lycra clothes . <S> Some of that stuff might pass for hipster.
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Wear some non-Lycra shorts/tracksuit bottoms over the top of your Lycra ones if you are self conscious about them. As far as changing in the locker room, that should be fine. Simply put, you shouldn't wearing cycling clothing to school unless your commute to school is really far.
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29" wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels? I was wondering what advantages 29" wheels give. From what I understand they are well suited to mountain biking. Are they any use on road bikes perhaps? <Q> Regarding road bikes, the 29" rim size is actually the same as standard 700c wheels used on road bikes -- only the tire is different (larger). <S> One difference that I don't see mentioned often is that 29" vs 26" wheels change your effective gearing. <S> If you have two bikes with the same gearing but one with 29" wheels and one with 26", the larger wheel will have a higher gearing overall because of the larger wheel diameter (one turn of the pedals move you farther down the trail). <S> This means that the 29er can help you reach a higher top speed, but the 26er will have a lower climbing gear. <S> Also see the comparison on Wikipedia . <A> There is a lot of discussion about 29 inch wheels versus 26 inch wheels. <S> I would summarize it as such: Major advantage of 29 inch wheels: ability to roll over obstacles easier. <S> Major disadvantage: <S> weight <S> There are other advantages/disadvantages <S> but I think those are the main ones. <S> There are many places online that summarize the debate more completely, for instance. <S> . . <S> http://www.mountain-bike-world.com/29-inch-mountain-bikes.html <A> Here is a YouTube video explaining advantage of having bigger wheels. <S> This is only part of the answer, most important reasons were explained by darkcanuck: <A> They do roll over objects easier, if you google angle of incidence it will explain why. <S> That same distance is why they will accelerate slower. <S> Think of a tennis ball on a string. <S> short string easy to get going and stop. <S> Longer, harder to get going but will keep moving easier. <S> There is also a traction advantange since the contact patch is larger.
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Considering that weight reduction is a major focus of road bikes, and rolling over obstacles is not a great need, I don't see 29 inch wheels catching on for road bikes. They also tend to keep momentum better, since the weight is farther from the axle.
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