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Is it OK to have a single front chainring paired with 7 speed at the back? I'm planning to have a single front chain ring to be paired with my 7 speed at the back. I'm still saving up for a 10 speed. <Q> Without taking into account whether it's a good idea or not; yes it's possible, with a few caveats. <S> You have two issues: Chain line <S> i.e., alignment between the front rings and rear cassette. <S> The single ring needs to be aligned with the center of the cassette <S> so you minimize the lateral deflection on the chain and avoid excessive wear on the chain and sprockets. <S> With a 7 speed rear its likely that you have a triple set of rings. <S> If so just us the middle position for the single front ring as it's aligned with the middle of the cassette. <S> If you have a double, things are trickier <S> but you may be able <S> mount the ring on the inboard side of the spider. <S> Dropping the chain <S> The front derailleur helps to keep the chain on the front rings. <S> Outer rings help keep the chain on inner rings. <S> With an unaided single front ring there is a greater chance of dropping the chain from it. <S> 1x11 setups feature a narrow-wide chainring that have alternating narrow and wide teeth that fit between the inner and outer chain connecting plates to more firmly hold on to the chain. <S> Leave the front derailleur in place to act as a chainguide. <S> You don't say whether you are saving for a whole 1x11 bike, or or planning to replace the drivetrain on you current bike. <S> In either case this article may be of use to you. <S> If the latter, bear in mind you will need to check compatibility between your freehub body and an 11 speed cassette. <A> I converted my '96 Gary Fisher Alfresco to a budget 1x7. <S> I simply removed the front derailer, kept the original Sugino chain rings and a Shimano hyperglide 7 speed cassette. <S> The only problem is that my chain falls off the chainring frequently. <S> There are chain guards available that help to keep the chain on the chainrings. <S> The chainrings on a 3x or 2x group set are designed to allow a chain to move off the chainring while shifting, but a 1x chain ring is designed to hold on to the chain. <S> If you go the 1x route, be sure to get a 1x chain ring. <S> It sounds like this is your plan. <A> 1x7 is totally fine. <S> Just remember to get narrow wide chain rings and also get a chain guide if possible. <S> Oh yes, and lastly cut short your chain enough for the tension to be high. <S> Hope it helps.
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The front derailleur helps to keep your chain on the chainrings. If you are looking to do this conversion as cheaply as possible you probably don't want to get a new chainring.
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Why is Giant's older Roam 1 more expensive than the newer Roam 2 and 3? I'm pretty new to biking and I have been looking at Giant's Roam line of bicycles, and noticed that the Roam 1 is more expensive than the Roam 2 and the Roam 2 is more expensive than the Roam 3 . Even the 2016 version of the Roam 2 is more expensive than the 2017 version of the Roam 2 . My question is why? Are they coasting off the name of a formerly-good bike and slowly decreasing the quality to lift profit margin? Or have they come up with better manufacturing methods and need less non-recurring engineering and advertising expense to be successful with the next version? Long and short of it is I have a friend who swears by the Roam line. I want to get the newest, but don't want to buy a lemon. <Q> Just like cars, things change between model years. <S> Sometimes they spec up the bikes and sometimes they spec them down even with the same model number. <S> And sometimes its for profit margin reasons or to improve sales next to competitors. <S> As for different model numbers, they have different quality levels of components. <S> Think of it as buying a car, with the base package, or the mid level package or top level package. <S> Typically, you'll get some nicer components (better fork/brakes/drivetrain/wheels), though in some brands, there are more pronounced differences than different components bolted on to the same frame <S> (e.g. the low end ones are made of aluminum and the high end ones are made of carbon fiber). <S> Now, for the real way to select a bike: the model year doesn't really matter -- a lot of people have 30 year old bikes which ride great. <S> And the best way to decide on a bike is to ride it to make sure it fits well <S> and you like it. <S> You can talk to the bike shop to see what models would fit for your intended goals. <A> The Roam 2 2016 model is more expensive because they used a higher end brakes on it, the 2017 one they used the bottom line shimano m315, but I would suggest you to get the 2017 model as they have updated the frame geometry design, which is a lot better compared to the 2016 one. <A> The primary reason is.........
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In this case, for example, the main differences between the same bike in 2 model years are a slight geometry change, a different brand of brakes and a slightly bigger tire. A used bike is a good starting point for people so they get to know what they actually want before dropping a large sum of money.
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Rear view ears at speed How can you hear cars approaching over wind noise? As I transition from a Sunday rider to a commuter I've gotten a good deal faster. This increases the wind noise in my ears, and it's gotten to the point were an unexpected car was surprisingly close as I glanced back prepping for a turn and I wobbled. At low speeds I used my ears for a general sense of what is around me, is that expected to become unreliable at better speeds? <Q> The stock advice is to put zero reliance on your ears ever. <S> There's this issue, there's the related issue of wind direction keeping you from hearing a car even not at high speeds, and there are extremely quiet cars. <A> In short, you can't. <S> I find turning my head to the side a bit reduces the noise a bit in one ear, but you can't do this all the time. <S> A rear view cycle mirror may help you. <A> I once met a chap who had attached long fuzzy fur to the part of his helmet strap that went just in front of his ears. <S> He claimed that it reduced wind noise considerably, same theory as the really fury boom microphones they use in windy conditions. <S> I have no experience, but it seemed to work for him. <S> I concur with Nathan <S> , don't rely on your hearing for cars, ensure you can see what's coming up from behind and very importantly, make sure you as as visible as humanly possible from all directions. <A> There are times you can <S> and times you can't. <S> I've got a regular descent at around 50km/h, which seems to be a bit of a transition. <S> The typical car speed there is 60-70km/h. <S> Cars coming downhill <S> don't make as much engine noise as on the flat, and small new vehicles are inaudible there. <S> It's not all engine noise of course. <S> I've heard a Tesla coming up behind from the wheel noise alone. <S> When you're behind a very noisy vehicle it drowns or other vehicle noises. <S> In fact the last time a car hit me <S> I would have heard it coming <S> had it not been for a very loud train nearby <S> (wing mirror hit my arm as I lifted my hand off the bars to signal. <S> The mirror broke; I didn't). <S> But they're still very useful (I say this as someone who has and uses a mirror on my main bikes). <S> Generally speaking you can hear when the closing speed is significant. <S> When you're going slowly you can hear cars at any speed. <S> What's really useful is that you can hear the change of gear and revs before someone pulls out to overtake. <S> At typical urban speeds you can also get quite a lot of information about speed and position of following vehicles.
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When you're going reasonably fast you can hear fast cars, but of course you don't get much warning before they catch you up. So you can't rely completely on your ears. Basically the choice is look back a lot and get good at it or use a mirror.
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Bike seems less stable when using handlebar bag On a recent 3 week trip I used a handlebar bag (together with two back bags) to carry the stuff I needed.In the handlebar bag I carried a reflex camera, my phone, a power bank and some candy. While my bike normally feels really stable, the first few days with the handlebar bag were a nightmare: the handlebar constantly felt really wobbly, to the point I had to check it was not loose. Then I got used to the feeling, but still could not completely trust the bike. Can the handlebar bag cause such behaviour, and how can I mitigate it? Edit: I had a picture of the handlebar bag to give an idea of the dimension. About the mounting, the bag itself is firmly held on the handlebar, and also the content did not have much clearance to move inside, maybe less than a centimeter. The reflex bag basically left only the space for the smartphone. <Q> Yes, the bag can cause the instability. <S> The physics is quite simple. <S> Ordinarily, a bike is self-stabilizing. <S> If you turn the handlebars to the left, you steer to the left and the bike leans to the left. <S> However, the turning gives a centrifugal force to the right, which causes the bike to want to lean to the right which, in turn, straightens it out. <S> With a bag on the handlebars, things change. <S> With the bike perfectly upright, the weight of the bag acts completely downwards and does nothing to turn the handlebars. <S> However, as the bike leans to the left, the bag can lower itself by turning the handlebars further to the left. <S> If the bag is heavy enough, this effect will overcome the self-righting stability of the bike and now you have a system that responds to a slight turn to the left by trying to turn more sharply (positive feedback) rather than the usual situation of responding to a slight turn to the left by trying to go straight again (negative feedback). <S> This is the instability that you felt while riding. <A> That's fairly normal behavior. <S> You point out that you got used to it, but couldn't "trust the bike". <S> It's a very similar scenario to moving to a new bike with much different geometry and not trusting the bike, your body and learned muscle memory needs time to adjust. <S> Weight strapped to the front of your handlebars tends to do this, especially when it wobbles a bit or is free to move. <S> I've done several races requiring a winter sleep system where I've ended up having to strap 10+ pounds (4.5+ kg) of -20°F (-29°C) sleeping bag, mat, and bivy to the front of my bike. <S> It definitely affects the handling on snow and even after my body gets used to the weight, it takes a bit before finer handling begins to seem normal. <S> There are really only two things you can do, pack as light as possible (if you NEED to pack on your handlebars) and make sure the load is WELL secured so that the weight doesn't have a sloppy feeling to it. <S> When securing the load make sure you don't interfere with your cables or damage them. <S> Simply mashing everything against your cables will/can cause shifting or braking problems. <A> Yes. <S> Perhaps your frame is just not suitable for a handlebar bag - <S> normally a fork with a lot of trail (ie a stable touring style fork) would be best. <S> If your bike is a "twitchy" or "responsive" or sporty bike, then the bag will put weight on the wrong side and essentially act like the fork is reversed. <S> So you should only put light stuff in your handlebar bag. <S> Clothes would be about it. <S> Instead you might find a rear rack works better for you, or possibly front panniers. <S> They strap on low-down and put their weight evenly over the fork rather than "in front" of the steerer. <S> If you have a lot of stuff, a load bike or even a cargo trailer might be a better solution. <A> Other options (given that you already have rear panniers) include: top tube bags (for phone, power pack and snacks but not the camera). <S> a trunk bag (on top of the rear rack) rearranging so that the heavy stuff is in the panniers a backpack. <S> That's what I do carrying my SLR because I have a camera backpack. <S> My handlebar bag recommends something like 2kg. <S> Above about 3 it's twitchy <S> but OK on my hybrid.
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Don't use a handlebar bag if it affects your bike's handling that badly. The first several hours riding (if I haven't practiced with it) are the worst, but eventually your body adapts to the feeling. Rear panniers or a frame bag might work for you.
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Is there a way to remember pedal, crank position before taking sharp turns I had a nasty tumble yesterday when doing a sharp right turn into a side road. A car was giving way to me at the junction. I turned right and I was basically thrown of my bike. flipped onto my left side ending up on my back. It was so quick a violent I can't say for sure what happened. The only thing I can think what caused it was my right pedal may have been in the down (6 o'clock) position. These things must have been natural when I was younger, as I've never had a incident like this before. <Q> Outside pedal down and your weight on the outside foot <S> , that 's how we were taught at the cycling school of the cycling club. <S> You may angle the inside leg more or less away from the bike if you want to turn faster (cf. <S> moto GP racers). <A> While the current answers about foot position in a turn are appropriate, I suspect your accident was more the result of trying to pedal through a corner, than the result of forgetting how to position your feet. <S> You mentioned having a car waiting for you. <S> If you felt rushed you may have tried pedaling through the corner in order to "go faster. <S> " This will place the inside pedal in the down position at some point in the turn, leading to a the pedal strike and a crash. <S> Therefore, if you are taking an aggressive corner: Do not pedal until you are sure you have sufficient clearance <S> Keep the inside pedal up (outside down) as suggested by @Carel for very aggressive turns or level as suggested by @sixtyfootersdude. <A> @Carel's answer to this question is perfectly acceptable, but I wanted provide another alternative. <S> When cornering and doing any kind of bike manoeuvring, you should be in the attack position. <S> The attack position allows you to shift your weight around on the bike and has the added bonus of keeping your pedals flat ensuring you don't have a pedal strike. <S> More info from MTB Techniques : <S> The attack position is achieved by standing on the pedals whilst they are in a level position. <S> ... <S> Riding in the seated position gives quite a stable riding position as the bike can’t move very much under you. <S> This stability comes at the expense of manouverability, fine on smooth, wide and straight paths <S> but not so good when the trail gets tight and twisty. <S> Standing up lets <S> you easily move about the bike for cornering and negotiating tough obsticles. <S> ... <S> Get your pedals level. <S> Stay relaxed, use your arms and legs as extra suspension. <S> Keep your knes apart to help with balance and cornering. <S> Lower your upper body towards the bars with your elbows out for better steering control. <S> YouTube demo of the attack position: This video is aimed at mountain biking but still provides a good overview of the things going on here.
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Even if you keep the pedals level there should be more than enough clearance for most turns. Use your arms to keep the bike upright.
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remove chainguard (?) lockring on fixed cup bracket I'm trying to remove the part of the frame that was holding the chainguard but there seems to be a kind lockring and I don't know which tool to use. Any ideas? EDIT: I am referring to the topmost six-edge nut, NOT the lockring (I do have a C spanner for that.) EDIT: I've accepted ojs's answer: the six-notch cup is the fixed part of the cup, it's not supposed to be removed at all unless the bottom bracket is completely replaced (and that was not my goal); the lockring is supposed to be removed without removing the cup. I took the bike to a mechanic who pointed out that this is a reverse-threaded cup, which I knew, however since the cup is reverse-threaded so is the lockring (it cannot be otherwise). The whole lot was seized and rusty (the mechanic had to hammer it a lot). Apparently I made things much worse but tightening it further while trying to unscrew it. Lessons learned. <Q> The tool is called lock ring wrench, or in non-bike contexts hook wrench or hook spanner. <S> There are a few different sizes, measure the lock ring before buying one. <S> EDIT: <S> Once the ring is loose, the inner part should be finger tight. <A> It is possible to use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap it out, but it will put nicks into the nut and possibly damage it, but if that isn't much of a factor, cheap and easy. <S> There are a few other tools you can use, either a universal wrench like this: Or a more specific tool similar to this one: <S> This particular one has 8 prongs where yours has 6, so check to make sure the tool you get will match the make and model of your bottom bracket set before you go this route. <S> You can also take your bike into a bike shop. <S> They will almost always just pop it off for you, if it won't take too long. <S> Maybe charge you $5, but in the shop I worked at, we would have done something this simple for free (and we had all those tools already. <S> Remember, they are trying to compete with online shops now, so their biggest selling point is "in person" customer service) <S> // <S> EDIT - <S> Actually, it might look more like this (but less prongs): As @Paul pointed out, that other one is for the outer ring, this one, however, is for the internal cone. <S> I didn't see the size difference because there was nothing to compare it too. <S> I actually have the exact 6 prong one you are looking for, somewhere, in some closet, but the bike I bought it for broke a while back <S> and I haven't needed to use it since, ever. <S> //EDIT2 <S> - Here is an example of what to use in your situation, both the external lock nut as Daniel shows, and the spanner shown above (slightly different spanner.) <S> I'd suggest getting a spanner, since they are more versatile than the other brand specific tools listed. <A> I'd tend to use something like this:
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If it's stuck, penetrating oil and pipe wrench or the pin spanner from other answer should help. The inner part is locked by the lock ring.
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Braking on a vintage road bike I recently bought a vintage Gitane road bike. I understand that in the 70s and 80s they sold a lot of these road bikes with drop handle bars. Sometimes they came with the extra lever for an easier grip from the top but mine doesn't. Most modern road bikes seem to have more of a grip from the hood which allows you to squeeze the brakes when sitting upright. So I am wondering if you are supposed to quickly change to the bottom grip to reach the handle bars? Is that something you get used to doing quickly after some time?Riding in the city seems very uncomfortable having your hands on the brake at all times while looking out for cars.Is that intended to be used more in touring than in busy city traffic? <Q> It is true that the old style brake levers were not as powerful from the hoods as modern ones. <S> The reason is geometry. <S> The picture below shows how old and new levers move when pulled. <S> With old levers, braking from the hoods requires one to pull back and push down at the same time. <S> As said in comments to other answers, this is doable but not very effective or intuitive. <S> With new levers one simply pulls the lever towards one's hand. <S> The small blue arrows show how brake cable moves. <S> If you want to improve braking on the bike and don't require complete authenticity, there are aftermarket levers with modern pivot placement. <A> What you are talking about are extension or suicide levers , which were common in the 70s. <S> These were poorly designed -- they basically keep the cable tension for the brakes partially on, so you don't get the full ability to actuate the brakes. <S> Modern bicycles have interrupter levers , which push the housing rather than pull on the cable to activate the brakes. <S> They don't have the drawbacks of suicide levers, and you can effectively apply the brake from the interrupter lever or from the regular brake lever. <S> The brake you use depends on your hand position. <S> For example, if you're on the top of the brake hoods or drops, you'd probably use the regular drop bar brake levers. <S> If you're near the middle of the bar, you'd probably use the interrupter lever. <S> The hand position is a matter of personal preference (nobody's stopping you from riding only in the drops all the time), but depending on how you're riding, some of the levers will be natural one to use. <S> If you're having issues with reaching the brakes, you can swap on a modern set of brake levers, and even add interrupter levers if you want to. <S> Some levers come in smaller sizes for smaller hands <S> (e.g. Tektro RL341 are a smaller hand version of the RL340). <A> Regular brake levers, without hoods or any additional levers or extensions, are intended to be used from the drops (i.e. riding with your hands down in the lower handlebar position). <S> So, if your riding environment dictates that you might need very quick braking reaction, you would need to ride with your hands down in the drops. <S> Most people - on many typical bike fits - would grow uncomfortable doing this, which is why it might make sense to add... <S> Extension levers or "in-line levers", which allow you to brake with your hands on the handlebar's "tops". <A> Back in that era cables came out the top and partially blocked access the brakes. <S> Once the cable was rerouted you have access to the brake from above so the need for extensions went way down. <S> Common position is on the hoods and brake with 2 fingers. <S> is-having-your-hands-on-the-hoods-of-drop-handlebars-safe-for-braking
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Hooded brake levers, which allow you to brake with your hands on top of the brake lever assemblies, near the handlebar's "ramps".
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Why are 36-spoke wheels a touring thing? I've been looking at tourers recently and they tend to have 36 spoke wheels (as does my hybrid on the back after I broke my original rim). What I don't understand is why high spoke counts aren't used on more bikes. Race-style road bikes with low spoke counts and smooth roads I understand. Maybe 26" wheels are tougher than 700C (I don't know). But CX bikes run (sometimes much) rougher surfaces on 700C and similar tyre widths to tourers -- without luggage but surely it's shock load that breaks spokes. Or 29er hardtails -- rougher conditions still, and it's not like you can expect good technique from all riders all the time. <Q> Summing up comments into an answer, including a few points of my own: <S> More spokes are stronger; more holes in the rim weaken it. <S> So a sweet spot must be found. <S> Standard numbers are good, for hole count and spoke gauge <S> Tourers have to keep going a long way from support, so durability counts (see also brakes); a little extra weight on a laden bike makes little difference unlike in a race. <S> One broken or loose spoke in 36 <S> doesn't make the wheel go as far out of true as one in 32 <S> (I've experienced this on my hybrid) <S> Although materials have improved, touring is a conservative discipline in which there's no imperative to change what works. <S> Touring can mean sitting and spinning over rough roads for hours on end with a lot of weight on the frame. <A> Touring bikes are often heavily loaded with paniers in addition to the rider. <S> The spokes transfer the load from bike frame to the rim and road. <S> Higher spoke count wheels means that the overall load is shared through more spokes resulting in a lower loading per spoke and thereby lowering the chance of spoke failure. <S> This is more important for a touring bike than reducing weight for performance purposes as the rider may be a very long distance from support or repair facilities. <A> I've been looking at tourers recently and they tend to have 36 spoke wheels (as does my hybrid on the back after I broke my original rim). <S> A touring bicycle needs a durable wheel, something that is repairable with lightweight equipment carried with you if it fails, and something that is likely to not fail in the first place. <S> What I don't understand is why high spoke counts aren't used on more bikes. <S> For machine-built wheels, installing less spokes makes the wheel building process faster. <S> At the same time, you can claim the low spoke count thing is an "improvement", supposedly reducing weight, and the fools with the money pay anything for the supposed "improvement". <S> Race-style road bikes with low spoke counts and smooth roads I understand. <S> I don't. <S> As I said, to reduce spoke count while keeping durability the same, you need a stiffer and heavier rim, which probably increases more weight than what is saved by eliminating few spokes. <S> Fortunately, everyone with money can affect the market. <S> Let's start a campaign to buy only 36 spoke rims and hubs!
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They don't realize that to make the rim equally durable, a low spoke count wheel needs a stiffer/heavier rim, something that adds more weight than the few eliminated spokes remove. If people buy the good stuff, the manufacturers are going to keep it in production. In CX most of the weight is above the suspension formed by the rider's legs and the rider can stand as required. It's a cost reduction thing.
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Kickstands "designed for steel frame" While looking for a rear kickstand, I came across one which says "designed for steel frames". Besides carbon frame which I am pretty sure cannot be "squeezed", is there a real difference among steel frames and aluminium frames that can account for different stands, or is it more a commercial thing? <Q> For carbon, the clamping mechanism has to be designed carefully because it can neither compress the stays too much (carbon is fragile in compression) nor can it scratch the carbon too deeply (if the fibers fray, the whole structure weakens). <S> Aluminium is in between. <S> The main concern with alu is that the stand can crimp or bend the chain stays if the bolts are clamped on too tight, or if there's too much of a load on the bike (full panniers) and all that stress and force is concentrated in one area. <S> If your bike is both expensive and made of either alu/carbon fiber, I'd either forgo using a rear kickstand, use track stands, or use center-stands that use the bridge between the rear chainstays and bottom bracket for support. <A> I contacted the dealer, asking the same question: what is so special about steel frames, and can it be used on aluminium frame? <S> The answer I got was: since steel frames are normally heavier than aluminium, the label means that the kickstand has been designed for those heavy loads. <S> Therefore it can be used also on aluminium frames. <A> Actually I just found out the reason, when I went to go purchase a kickstand for my steel framed Breezer. <S> It has to do with the width of the chain stay. <S> As steel bikes are stronger then aluminium, they tend to have smaller tubes, in particular the chain-stay. <S> As most rear mounted kickstands are designed for the thicker aluminum frames, they do not hold tight on the narrow steel framed bikes, causing them to be unstable. <S> I found this out the hard way. <A> I'm not sure there is a real reason to make a kickstand just for steel frames, except what you mentioned about carbon. <S> The only thing I can think of is maybe the one "for steel frames" has a steel plate where it interfaces with the frame, and they are trying to keep galvanic corrosion away...
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It's easy to design a rear kickstand for a standard steel bicycle since all you need is a strong clamp on one of the chainstays.
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Are there big differences in maintenance/care between different types of clipless pedals? I was reading this article http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/best-road-bike-pedals-33045/ and it talks about maintenance/care with a couple of the pedal options, even mentioning that "Shimano" pedals can have mud and dirt in the cleats, and still connect to the pedals fine. I am curious if there are pedals/cleats that we should avoid as beginners due to them needing to be taken care of frequently, as well as any that we should avoid getting dirt or anything that could "clog" the pedals? From what I've been reading there are a lot of interesting pedal systems out there, but in most articles it seems that the name "Shimano" keeps coming up as more of a beginner friendly option, even though there are some that sound nicer. <Q> As you said, they don't get clogged up easily, but it can happen. <S> It just takes a LOT of mud. <A> I think it's important to mention that pedals aren't simply "road" or "mountain" pedals, but that there are pedals designed for many different purposes. <S> Most people will classify "road race" pedals such as Look Keo, Shimano SPD-SL, and Speedplay as "road pedals" and most other pedals including Shimano SPD and CrankBrothers will fall into the "mountain pedals". <S> Road race pedals in my opinion are pretty much what they sound like. <S> They are built for road racing and very little else. <S> They are difficult to walk in, and many people have difficulty clipping into them. <S> This isn't a problem if you are road racing because most likely you will be clipping in and then won't be clipping out until hours later. <S> The shoes designed to work with them are usually very stiff soled and are designed only to be used for pedaling. <S> Mountain pedals on the other hand have a huge variety of pedal styles and shoes available. <S> Some pedals have almost no platform at all are little more than an axle with a clip attached to grip the cleat. <S> Others have quite big platforms and can be used with regular shoes as well as cycling shoes. <S> There are also pedals with a platform on one side and a clip on the other. <S> would be. <S> Shoes comes in all forms as well from very flexible shoes or sandals that you could walk in all day to stiffer racing shoes that, while still walkable, definitely wouldn't be good for extended walking. <S> Shimano also makes pedals called "Click'r" which are specifically aimed at more casual and recreation cyclists. <S> The are designed to be very easy to clip in and out of, while still providing many of the benefits of using a clipless pedal system. <A> Most of the beginner, inexpensive models you will likely be looking will require little maintenance (other than normal cleaning and checking your cleat bolts) and will likely last for years before they die. <S> As mentioned elsewhere shimano SPD style is a good choice for this because they are market saturated, parts (like replacement cleats when one falls off) are readily available and they are common. <S> If you start looking into a more expensive set of pedals, this may change. <S> I run eggbeaters on all my bikes (road and MTB!) and have at least one pedal set that although I initially paid several hundred dollars for, has been rebuilt twice (with inexpensive kits from the company) and still works just as well over a decade later. <S> Some companies consider even their most expensive pedals disposable, while others will sell rebuild kits and parts for theirs rather than just suggesting a new set. <A> Those are road pedals. <S> If you want best mud performance look for mountain bike pedals. <S> They are all designed to handle mud. <S> Some better than others. <S> You can still use them on a road bike. <S> Clean the mud off after each ride so you always start clean. <S> I hit mine with a little WD40 last to slow down rust. <A> I have used Speedplay pedals for 19 years now, and I love them. <S> I would also recommend that most beginners avoid them. <S> This Cyclingtips article appears to back me up. <S> Speedplays have small bearings, and they need to be serviced with a grease gun annually. <S> This can be a little messy, as the old dirty grease will get pushed out on the inside of the pedal. <S> Separately, the cleats need to be lubricated periodically, perhaps monthly. <S> Furthermore, the cleats need to mount flat to your shoes, and I have had some issues getting the base plate completely flat on some shoes despite using the manufacturer-specified shims. <S> (NB: this varies by shoe, and most users shouldn't encounter this issue, but I doubt <S> any SPD or Look user encounters this issue at all.) <S> Speedplay cleats may also be more vulnerable to fouling by dirt, which can affect you if you step in mud, sand, etc. <S> Also, some reviewers like Josh Poertner of Silca have suggested that being smaller, they are slightly more aerodynamic than other pedal systems. <S> Neither advantage is essential for all users. <S> At the time of writing, Speedplay sponsored two World Tour-level (i.e. top tier) road cycling teams and several second-tier teams, plus a few individual road cyclists (including former professionals). <S> However, Dan Empfield of Slowtwitch.com documents <S> that Speedplays are very popular among top-level triathletes. <S> He also explains the benefits of the pedal in some detail here .
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Shimano pedals are usually brought up as a good beginner pedal because they are readily available just about everywhere, have several low-cost options, have standards that much of the industry follow for cleats and cross compatibility, and require little maintenance. Despite the fact that many people use "mountain" to describe these pedals, many people use them on the road, and many of the designs are much better suited to the average road cyclist than a road race pedal Dirt alone is not likely to foul a pedal unless you never clean them. I bother with Speedplay because you can adjust the Q-factor using the cleat mounting screws, and if that’s not sufficient, multiple axle lengths are available for further adjustment. The aerodynamic difference is measurable but slight; consider that professional road cyclists would probably switch en masse if it were a large difference.
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What are these cracks in the side of my bicycle tyre called? Does this mean that my tyre is gone? I found out cracks in my bicycle tyre. I am not sure if the tyre is damaged. Following is a picture for referenceI would like to know what can be the possible causes for these cracks and how to avoid them. <Q> It doesn't really matter what caused it - could have been low quality, age, or extended use. <S> The cracks mean the layers the tire is made of are separating and in the long run you will see more punctures because the material is softening. <S> A brand-name tire costs 15 to 25 EUR/USD/GBP which I consider low enough to not take the risk of punctures. <A> It is not ideal, the tyre is approaching end of life, but the tube is unlikely to burst through that crack because the structural part of the tyre (the threads) still there and are still somewhat protected from the weather. <S> Do plan on replacing it, but you should get at least months or more of riding. <S> Basically wear the tread out some more then replace both tyres. <A> For the record, that is called "Dry Rot", and it's caused by rubber drying out and getting less pliable. <S> Commonly happens when a bike is on a concrete floor not being used(like in a garage or storage shed) for a long period of time. <S> It will make your tire brittle, and sometimes will make it unsafe. <S> Yes, you should change the tire.
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A little dry rot usually isn't detrimental, a lot can split the sidewall of the tire causing a blowout. I'd say, it's time to replace the tire.
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What makes a great kids city bike? (and where can I find or how can I build one?) I have two children age 6 and 8. In good weather we often ride 10 or 20 miles in a day to school and misc activities. I'd like to get them city / commuter bikes but almost all of the kids bikes I can find are BMX, MTB, or beach cruiser. However we mostly ride on paved surfaces and these styles aren't as efficient as a hybrid or 3 speed with narrower, higher pressure tires. I'd also like them to have fenders, racks, and water bottles. But I can't find such bikes at stores I've visited in the US or online. What type of bike would be a good city commuter bike for kids? I am happy to extensively modify what is available, but am not sure where the best place to start would be. <Q> So, if your kids are like most, they are going to be hard on bikes. <S> They will jump off curbs, do wheelies, and likely toss them to the ground when they dismount. <S> A bmx will take a beating but it is an awful commuter bike. <S> Beach cruisers are not much better - and they won't take the abuse. <S> I recommend a hard tail mountain bike for most kids. <S> A hard tail is one with only suspension in the front. <S> You will want to make a single change to it, put on some slick road tires. <S> A slick tire mountain bike can be fast, I recently had one fly by me on a 100-mile ride (and I am pretty fast) <S> You can often find them for a good price used. <S> They will accept all of the accessories that you mention. <S> Whatever you do, don't buy one from a department store. <S> A used quality bike will be much better than a brand new one from a box store any day of the week. <S> You will need help finding a good one, quality varies a lot. <S> Look for brands like specialized, giant, trek, Santa Cruz, though there are many others. <S> Stop by your local bike shop and ask if they have one used, or bring in some ads from Craig's list. <S> If you start by saying "I would like to get a bike and have you service it", they will be apt to help you more. <S> You can filter for bike types, location, price, etc. <S> Expect to pay at least $250 for a used one, and that is bottom end. <S> Process will go up from there. <S> I hope that helps. <S> Cheers <A> Here's a Devil's Advocate answer. <S> Your kids are still growing - blowing a lot of money on an expensive bike is going to be a waste because they'll grow out of it in short order. <S> Your best bet is to buy a used nice gender-agnostic rigid MTB that fits the eldest/largest kid and then let that trickle down as they grow. <S> For the younger child, whatever bike works will probably be good enough. <S> If young enough, they're more interested in colours, flags, and maybe a basket on the front. <S> A good older bike should not be discounted <S> - maintenance might be a bit more... interesting. <S> In short - doing the ride together is often much more important than having a super-nice bike to do it on. <A> So you can start there, and that's an easy upgrade. <S> If you go for kids MTBs, check the wheel size is something sensible, and put better tyres on. <S> My default choice for riding on road is the marathon plus. <S> That comes in 16", 20" and 24" as well as the more common adult sizes. <S> They're not cheap <S> but I'd spend the money to avoid punctures when out with kid(s), and they're very durable. <S> Other, cheaper options are available even with puncture protection.
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Kids bikes tend to have the worst of the worst knobbly tyres, even when they're blatantly not meant for serious offroading. Also, pinkbike.com is a good source for used bikes and parts. I recommend something that will take a bit of abuse. A hard tail is a great choice because it is cheaper, lighter, and easier to maintain than one with suspension in the back as well. I hate to say it, but a batman or barbie BSO is probably ideal for the younger/smaller child.
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End of brake cable touches tire On my Trek Domane SLR the end of the front brake cable touches the tire. It makes an enerving sound and I am a afraid it destroys my tire. I thought about using some tape, but that is not possible because of the moving brake arm. Is there any possibility to push the cable to the side without renewing the while cable? <Q> It looks like it's been cut too short <S> so can't be tucked out of the way. <S> But you may be able to cut it still shorter and use a smaller end cap/ferrule, or just part of one, or a blob of glue to stop the end fraying. <S> Use longnose pliers. <S> This stopped my front derailleur cable irritating my leg, for example. <S> You're right to want to fix it -- metal rubbing on tyres isn't a good thing. <A> Chris H has the right idea. <S> Eventually when you replace the brake cables leave it long so you can tuck it on the outside of the brake pad. <S> For the time being i agree with Chris, do what you can to try and prevent it from rubbing because over time it will wear a groove in the tire if it hasn't already. <S> Here is an image from Trek`s website showing how they have it long and tucked to the side. <S> Nice brakes but the cable routing leaves some to be desired in my opinion. <A> In addition to the the other options here, you may try extending the cable, or at least pretending like you're extending the cable - get some metal tube or maybe even a stiff plastic and crimp/glue it to the metal ferrule at the current end of the cable, then you may be able to extend that long enough to keep the end away from the tire.
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Bending the cable may work too -- you might not have enough length but a sharp bend away from the tyre might work.
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How to avoid the road bike physique Due to a house move I am soon to become a road bike commuter with approx. 18 miles to cover. I could do with loosing a few kgs but am worried about developing the emaciated physique so apparent in many of the road bikers I see. How can one avoid this? Is it simply a product of the high endurance aspects of road cycling over longer distances, or a combination of that and excessive dieting? I have been a mountain biker for over 10 years and have found that it helps one build muscle mass in the upper thigh and arms and shoulders. Any advice on how to avoid the skinny road biker look would be greatly appreciated. <Q> This would be a great problem to have for most of us roadies. <S> Simply eat more if you find yourself losing more weight than you care to lose. <S> You can alternatively balance with more strength based exercises like lifts, pulls, rows at the gym or elsewhere. <S> Or cake. <A> It's not exactly natural -- they're working to drop as much unnecessary weight as possible in order to climb faster. <S> While I think bike commuting should help make you leaner, you won't look anything like Bradley Wiggins unless you're also restricting your diet and training very hard. <S> Don't worry! <A> +1 on the weight work. <S> I read of a report that demonstrated reduced bone density in professional cyclists, attributed to the very smooth loading/unloading of stress on the leg bones in the pedaling cycle. <S> Google for it. <S> My wife's doctor recommended to her impact exercise (weights, running, etc.) <S> because she's under 115lbs and normal walking <S> doesn't stress her bones enough to delay/offset/combat osteopenia. <S> FWIW <S> I'm 63, 5'-7", 145lbs, upper body like Gimondi. :) <A> Roughly, your muscles are made up of two types of muscle fibers: <S> fast and slow. <S> Slow muscle fibers are relatively weak, but they have very high endurance. <S> Long rides at moderate effort level will burn fat and develop your slow muscle fibers. <S> Fast fibers are... <S> well, much faster, much stronger, but they have much lower endurance. <S> These are the ones you use when sprinting, or doing reps/lifting weights. <S> They also have more bulk, so they're the ones usually associated with the "muscle look". <S> If you don't work the fast fibers, you'll look like a climber cyclist or a marathon runner (and you'll suck at sprints). <S> If you only work the fast ones, you'll look like a track sprinter with huge thighs. <S> It is good to develop both, aim somewhere in-between. <S> Basically look at pro cyclists, there is not an extra gram of useless body mass on these guys, so pick one <S> you like, check if he's a climber or a sprinter, and train accordingly. <S> A nice way to do this on a bike is to sprint between traffic lights. <S> This is basically HIIT. <S> It's fun, too. <S> Makes you sweat a lot, so do it on the way home! <S> Pull on the handlebars to work your arms too... <S> but if you don't want the "cyclist arms", you gonna have to either lift a bit or do some rough MTB, which is a good workout.
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Elite cyclists work very, very hard for that emaciated physique!
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How to attach graphics to frame For attaching graphics to a painted metal bike frame, is there a better option than Scotch tape or clear packing tape? I'm looking for something transparent and adhesive, but not so adhesive it can't be repositioned or removed later. The graphics I have in mind are home-printed "stickers" (but on printer paper, so they don't have adhesive) and registration marks for things like seat and handlebar position and angle. I'm not up to speed on painting, so that's not an option. Scotch tape isn't fully transparent and I don't think it's going to last. Clear packing tape is nice because it's clear but the adhesive can be hard to remove after a while without using things that can damage paint. The project's coming along. I'll have a final report after I try some with sticker paper in the printer. Here's a picture taken when using Gorilla Clear Repair Tape (on seat tube above the FD) and packing tape (below the FD). For anyone horrified by the condition of the frame, keep in mind this is my beater bike, meant to look not worth stealing. If it hadn't come this way I'd have had to distress it on purpose. Sizing tests on the frame and a reminder on the stem, both with Scotch tape. The one on the stem has been holding for three months. <Q> If you want to use tape, then you want to use what's commonly called "helicopter tape" (or "racing tape" or "repair tape") by car customizers. <S> It looks like transparent packing tape but is much stronger. <S> The story goes that the tape was used to cover the leading edge of helicopter blades to protect them. <S> So it's tough, waterproof, and won't easily peel. <S> And when you do have to peel it off, it comes off relatively cleanly (the remainder cleans up with GooGone or similar removal liquid). <S> That said, you need to be careful of what you're covering. <S> Even with helicopter tape, some moisture always finds a way of getting underneath into the paper so it should be printed with waterproof ink. <S> And UV light will also fade. <S> So you generally shouldn't just use something that's coming out of your home inkjet printer. <A> I doubt any tape will last. <S> Sunlight, rain, friction and wind will knock heck out of both the tape and the printout pretty quick. <S> If they're custom graphics then look at printing onto Tee-shirt transfer paper - the sort which is used to customise t-shirts. <S> Downside is that it needs a high temperature iron to push the image to the cloth. <S> To do that on a bike frame will likely burn the paint. <S> You might get by using a hot air gun/paint stripper blower, but absolutely test this first. <S> Otherwise I'd suggest buying some fine brushes and some model kitset paints. <S> Then use your printout as a stencil and paint directly on the frame. <S> You'll want a steady hand and plenty of time. <S> Once dried, put a heap of clearcoat on top to protect your work. <S> Third option, is to make up a plate like a head-tube badge. <S> Cut and polish a piece of metal, and curve it to fit your bike frame. <S> Then paint the image in place, lacquer/clearcoat that, and stick it on the bike with epoxy. <S> I'd not recommend rivets unless you already have holes in the frame. <S> Do let us know how it goes. <A> I've used clear waterproof repair tape (from DIY shops, this link is Amazon) to attach labels to kayak paddles. <S> While I don't spend as much time in the boat as on a bike, conditions are pretty harsh. <S> With clean-cut edges it lasted several years. <S> I have replaced it and it came off cleanly in one piece. <S> It's much better than packing tape – it's tougher and the glue is meant to last. <S> The laminated version of the tape is good, and may even be sufficient on its own on a smooth surface. <S> (Amazon again) for your stickers. <S> I've only used it with black-and-white printers, but if you have a colour laser it should be quite good. <S> How it gets on when left in the sun for long periods may be an issue – some plastics fall to bits on UV exposure, others stay intact <S> but then the glue fails. <S> To get tape glue off I suggest WD-40, a rub with a rag, and finally a degreaser you'd use anyway on your bike. <S> I know WD-40 isn't what you'd use on your chain, but it won't damage any paintwork I've come across, and it does a good job of softening glue. <A> I used to make them quite a lot, but i always used sheets of sticker paper, you can buy it at craft stores or home office supply stores, it can be tricky to find <S> but then it runs through your normal printer and has a peel-able backing. <S> The adhesive is decent but not amazing. <S> Vinyl is the way to go if you can find a printable adhesive vinyl. <S> For what i used to use them for, which was outdoors, i would print them, let them dry and them coat them with about 3 coats of UV <S> resistant clear coat letting them dry in between coats. <S> That way you get a good seal to resist water and UV fading. <S> It seemed to work pretty well, most would last more than a year outside all day. <S> They are what i used to sticker bomb my mini fridge and it worked quite well.
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Another option (possibly under the repair tape) is laser-printable self adhesive vinyl I'd be wary of paper stickers even under tape – water has a way of getting in. You can also buy sticker packs of random things off of Amazon or other online stores but the sticker quality is so-so and i would still clear coat them for outdoor use. The labels I use underneath the tape are printed on a Brother label printer (Amazon).
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Saddle position for a long steep climb Various sources indicate that when climbing to slide back on the saddle. In about a month I plan to attempt Whiteface Mountain with its 13 km at an 8% grade. If I manage this climb I will be at my limit. Should I move my saddle back for the climb? <Q> Most of the new schools of thought suggest moving back or forth on your saddle is more of an indication that the saddle offset isn't set up correctly, than it is advantageous. <S> I would tend to agree. <S> If you find yourself constantly shifting forward or backwards, this likely indicates that the saddle isn't in the correct position. <S> Old school fitting have been obsessed with KOPS (Knee over pedal spindle), but this was originally derived as a general method to determine whether or not a frame size was appropriate (i.e., if you couldn't get into KOPS, you needed a different size). <S> (There isn't even consensus on how you even measure KOPS as everyone landmarks the knee differnently - <S> this can result in over 1cm difference in offset alone). <S> Depending on your body proportions and bike position if you setup your bike to comply with KOPS <S> this may have <S> put you into a sub-optimal position, which is why you may find yourself moving forward or backwards. <S> Best advice is to go out with a set of allen keys and level and ride a reasonably long climb. <S> If you find your self wanting to move forward, try moving the saddle forward (0.5cm at a time) then retry. <S> Eventually you should be able to fine tune your fit. <S> The level is used to ensure you can keep the attitude of your saddle (i.e, nose up, level, or down) <S> the same between trials. <S> Optimal saddle attitude is a topic onto itself (I feel a lot of "experts" have little understanding on the functional bio-mechanics of hips and how this inter-plays with saddle attitude.) <S> In about a month I plan to attempt Whiteface Mountain with its 13 km at an 8% grade. <S> If I manage this climb I will be at my limit. <S> Should I move my saddle back for the climb? <S> Honestly, I think gearing will be the most important factor for surviving 13 km at 8%. <S> I have done a 40 km ride at a similar gradient and being able to spin is a life saver <S> (when I saw the "only" 19 km remaining I shed a tear). <S> There are lots of long cage road derailleurs and wide range cassettes available now. <S> I would consider this as the most important change over fine tuning such as saddle offset. <A> It is not necessary to change your saddle position for climbing. <S> It will not increase your chances to overtake this mountain. <S> It will only give you a less confident feeling as you are riding in a position you are not custom to. <S> I recommend to do this at the most comfortable position you know <S> and that is your current saddle position. <S> Climbing advice: If you can, try and stay in the saddle, going in and out the saddle costs energy. <S> ( climbing is a constant tension for the muscle and to change the feeling you can go in and out the saddle ). <S> As for you being at the limit. <S> I don't think that this is possible, almost anyone can do these climbs if you have the right gears to do it and the motivation to get to the top! <A> Moving backwards in the saddle straightens out the leg and increases the peak power output (hence why track sprinters have their saddles set so high), but it also reduces efficiency. <S> The advice to slide backwards in the saddle was probably meant for short steep sections. <S> Think about getting a gear ratio that lets you pedal at a reasonable speed and sit in as normal a position as you can as this will be the most efficient and effective. <A> Depends on whether road biking or mountain biking. <S> in mountain biking you are looking for traction on uneven terrain when climbing - sitting forward facilitates traction on both tires. <S> In road biking, you have smooth tires and smooth terrain. <S> Shifting slightly back in saddle when climbing increases traction on the rear wheel, which is the only wheel taking your power (front wheel is passive), and reduces friction on the front tire, which is what you want.
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I only recommend going out the saddle when you feel the current section you are on is too steep ( but you must feel this for your own ) or you feel you should change the tension on the muscles
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Finding the right size bicycle I am 4'10" and about 300lbs. I would love to start bicycling around the countryside for pleasure and low level exercise. But my tummy gets in the way and it hurts to bend my knees at the top of the pedal rotation. Is there a bicycle for me? <Q> A cruiser-style, semi-recumbent trike might be the best for you. <S> You can lean back so your stomach isn't in the way. <S> Your back is supported <S> so all your weight isn't on your rear end. <S> Two wheels in the back spread the weight and result in fewer rear tire punctures. <S> The trike ensures that when you're stopped or riding really slowly (e.g., uphill), you won't lose balance. <S> It's impossible to do an end-over going downhill. <S> Because it's not fully recumbent, it's still easy to get in and out of, and you're higher off the ground so it doesn't feel as invisible to cars. <S> Steering is done with the usual handlebars so it's easy to get used to. <S> It's easy to move the seat forward for shorter or longer legs and the steering column can also tilt back. <S> Add an electric assist to the front wheel and you'd be in heaven. <A> A mountain bike or beach cruiser both for upright position and tire size. <S> A touring bike with flat bars that comes in XS. <S> Touring is built for extra weight. <S> Something like a Surly Troll. <S> Shorter cranks will reduce knee bend. <S> Higher seat will also reduce knee bend. <S> Most children (and adult) bikes are not built for that weight. <S> Consider a steel frame. <S> Consider upgrading the wheels and seat post based on weight. <S> Start with a bike that fits you before putting more money into it. <A> I'm picking you're doing this for health and fitness reasons - Great choice! <S> Cycling is non-impact and doesn't jar the joints. <S> The bike you start with may not be the bike you want/ <S> need in a year or two. <S> So I'd suggest starting with a used MTB, commuter or cruiser style bike. <S> Look for something with strong wheels, more spokes is generally better. <S> You will want straight or slightly bent handlebars as opposed to drop bars. <S> I'd also suggest you track your progress with Strava or some other kind of exercise tracker. <S> This will clearly show you when you improve, because generally cycling gets faster without being noticeably easier. <S> The numbers back up that you're improving. <A> I would go for a 'sit up and beg' kind of bike made by a company that makes kids as well as adult frames of the same design. <S> Sitting up allows for more belly room. <S> Those often have bikes all the way from the child sizes into the adult sizes. <S> In the Netherlands a lot of older kids and young teens ride those range of sizes. <S> The bikes are mostly very sturdy, allowing for heavier riders. <S> (Own experience.) <A> Most vendors don't make bikes for people outside the most common height range. <S> Even professional racers such as Emma Pooley (5ft) and Conor Dunne (6ft8) have struggled to get bikes that fit. <S> It sounds like you want a bike that also lets you sit rather more upright than the typical road or mountain bike does. <S> Some vendors that have bikes like this are: http://www.papillionaire.com.au/our-bike/sommer <S> https://www.bikefriday.com/folding-bikes/ <S> There will be more options out there. <S> Maybe ask at a local bike shop or look up a local cycling club's website and ask on their forums.
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As other people indicate, recumbent bikes are also a good option, but select a bike or trike that allows you to lean back, sitting upright on a 'bent bike still gives belly/legs conflicts. Fortunately there are vendors that make bikes to fit all sizes. You are on the low end of bike sizing for adults.
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Prevent trouser damage when biking? I am biking nearly every day to work and back (~ 3 km), but my trousers get damaged quite fast due to the created friction between my legs and the saddle. Which then means that I have to buy new ones rather frequently. Is there any way to prevent that? Saddle in question: <Q> Jeans and similar trousers wear fast on saddles. <S> This is partly the seam on the inside of the leg, which is more of an issue on thick, high-friction fabric. <S> They're also not very comfortable for riding in, especially if they get wet (including from sweat). <S> Sitting in wet clothes when you arrive isn't much fun either, and smart stuff doesn't like being rained on. <S> My solution on commutes over about 8 km (5 miles) is to get changed. <S> This also means I don't get chain oil on anything that matters. <S> I'm not suggesting lycra as a default for commuting; apart from anything else pockets are useful at the ends. <S> Gym shorts are good in summer, but in winter I suggest quick drying hiking trousers, and cheap ones at that. <S> The pair I relegated to bike commuting have done a few thousand miles/km without noticeable wear. <A> Depending on the dress code, you could look into commuter chinos or jeans. <S> They are reinforced through the crotch to prevent this. <S> Although they are expensive, they are cheaper than replacing your pants every few months. <A> I think you have a range of options: <S> Ride all 3km out of the saddle (good upper body and quad workout <S> and you can still coast while sitting in the saddle) <S> Buy a slightly narrower saddle with smooth contours. <S> This might be less comfortable on a long ride but will provide less area for wear. <S> Here are a couple very cheap options for saddles on amazon Narrow black saddle colorful options to match your bike <A> Same here, a better saddle delays, but does not ultimately prevent the inevitable hole in your pants. <S> I use cheap gym shorts, and change into trousers on arrival. <S> Also, non-sweaty trousers are a plus. <A> I haven't found a way to prevent it, only address it. <S> I've used both good saddles (like leather Brooks) and more run-of-the-mill (WTB). <S> I wear Carhartts usually and they certainly rip out prematurely. <S> I'm lucky to (1) work wear <S> I can get away with just about anything and (2) have a sewing machine with which I can patch the crotch, which is what I do. <S> Reinforcing usually with the pocket of another old pair of Carhartts doubles the life, so the crotch goes about the same time as the knees. <S> One shouldn't have to muck with their saddle height to save their pants (saddle height should be wherever you like it to be) and one shouldn't have to wear special clothing to pedal around town or always be lugging around a change of clothes (lugging is for milk and beer). <S> Perhaps as more people use bikes for everyday some of these manufacturers will start to reinforce the crotch like they do the knees.
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Wear something other than expensive work clothes when commuting Place heavy tape on your trousers where they normally get worn (don't forget to remove it when you get to work)
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Will driving through heavy rain with bike on my car damage the bike? I'll be driving for 4 hours with my bike on the rack through heavy rain. Will this damage the bike? <Q> The prevalent thought among many members of the Cycling Illuminati (trademark) is that the high vehicle speeds will drive rain into your bearings on a bike if it is mounted to the roof rack. <S> Seems kinda plausible, but here is a GCN video about how hard it is to actually drive water past seals and into bearings with a pressure washer: <S> Should You Jet Wash Your Bike? <S> Spoiler: <S> It took them a long time, with the pressure washer jet focused directly on the bearing itself at point blank for 3+ minutes to finally drive some water past the seals. <S> Unless you are traveling down the Autobahn at top speed with your bike mounted to a roof rack you hyper-car, you will probably be just fine. <S> Pressure washer water velocity is about 243 mph (391 km/hr). <S> A Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Super Sport is the world's fastest road legal production car with a top speed of 431 km/hr (268 mph). <S> Technically, if you had a special rack designed for your Veyron (wouldn't want to upset the handling at 400 km/hr), you might be able to generate enough velocity for this to be a concern. <S> Even then, it is likely only the head set bearings (or maybe bottom bracket if you have external bearing version) that will take the brunt. <S> Even then, these bearings are oriented in a plane perpendicular to the plane of motion (which will greatly reduce the velocity of the water that actually interacts with the bearing seal face). <A> If you're driving on the freeway, then you might be going 75 mph (120km/h) with a headwind adding another 15mph (25kph) so a total of 90mph (145kph). <S> That's fast enough to drive rain into the bearings in the headset, which is oriented right into the wind. <S> Rain can also get into the bowden cables for your derailleurs and brakes, which will hasten rusting and sticking. <S> The main purpose of these is to reduce the amount of bugs that collect on your handlebars and seat, but they'll also protect your headset -- as well as your brifters and brake/derailleur cables. <S> NB: <S> Your bottom bracket and axles are oriented perpendicular to the wind when on a roof rack so they'll get less water driven into them. <A> It will be about equivalent to exposing it to maybe 4-10 times the rain standing still. <S> And the higher the speed the worse the effect will be. <S> The problem is that the forward motion will tend to drive rainwater into the bearings, and, to a lesser degree, into cables and frame members. <S> But 4 hours is probably not long enough to be especially concerning, if the bike is well-maintained to begin with, and if it has a good chance to dry out afterwards (vs, say, being immediately locked away in a damp shed). <S> I'm trying to think if there's any good reason to mount frontwards vs backwards, but can't think of any. <S> Sideways would be worse, in addition to the obvious wind resistance problem. <A> There are many people who commute or compete in inclement weather with out issues. <S> just prepare for the conditions. <S> I would apply a coat of wax to the frame and any chromed parts. <S> Look for a chain lube designed for wet conditions. <S> Liberally apply the lube to the derailleur pivot points, exposed cables and the chain. <S> Avoid covering the bike with a tarp or plastic cover. <S> The wind will cause the cover to flap and buff the paint off the frame.
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Plus, don't forget that the front wheel usually rides inside the car and the rear hub is left on the bike, but will be running in disturbed air, which will further reduce the force of the rain water. When you arrive at your destination wipe off any standing water and relube if you feel you need to. You can get rack bike covers (condoms). Do not get lube on the brake surface of the rims or rotors.
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Riding on a failing bottom bracket - what could possibly go wrong? My BB is showing the first signs of being on the way out (a click when I drive either foot down hard; if I remove the chain there's a barely perceptible clicky feeling at the same crank position as the click). It's not convenient to get it fixed in the near future. The last time I wore one out, the ride was horribly notchy by the time I got it done, but I blamed the cassette/chain. What's likely to happen if I keep riding on it? I can tolerate a rough ride on this bike (I'm not doing much distance on it at the moment). But I don't want to damage anything else (this seems unlikely to me). I also don't want a sudden failure, especially one that causes things to seize up. <Q> Here's a BB <S> I personally exploded on my fixed gear commuter <S> Everything I described above happened and I would not recommend running a clearly faulty BB for too long. <S> I believe a BB using bearing cartridges might not fail as catastrophically as one with simple cages like the one pictured <S> but I doubt it would end well in the long term. <A> "What could happen" depends a lot on the brand and model of bottom bracket and the riding and maintenance conditions it has been subjected. <S> Different quality materials and design may have very different failure modes. <S> In my view, the failure of a particular BB may not be catastrophic, but may happen on a critical moment of the ride, resulting on an accident, injury or worst. <S> In the best case, the bearings will only develop some play. <S> If that is the case, it first becomes annoying and ultimately causes problem with the front derailleur or chain guide (if any). <S> In the worst case something may crack. <S> The crack itself may not be terrible, but it may affect the bike frame if used in that condition. <S> The click you describe may be a crack or dent on one of the races, which may over time cause a bearing ball or roller to break, possibly causing the axle to bind. <S> The resulting wobble would not cause trouble with shifting and at that time the bike was used for very short urban commuting on flat streets. <S> I neglected for too long until one bearing cage snapped. <S> The bearing balls fell out of place and the axle was bounced all over the shell. <S> The bike was rendered useless in a second. <S> I could not accelerate or even stand on the pedals while riding a busy street. <S> Luckily it happened right after a red light so no cars where buzzing past me. <S> The axle wobble in this bottom bracket <S> caused te seals to be less effective, letting water and dirt in, which in turn corroded the bearing cage, accelerating the decay of the whole thing. <A> Basically it is badly adjusted, damaging things until it fails outright in some manner. <S> That may happen today, or it might grind on for a decade. <S> munching at the ball bearings and the cups and cones. <S> If it's already spalling, replacement is the best option. <S> If you catch it soon enough, a clean / grease / refit might be all it needs. <S> Do you intend to throw away the bike when it breaks? <S> Consider a bike-cooperative to supply the tools for a one-time tweak, or just buy the tools. <S> You own the bike and will doubtless use them again. <S> Bikes can last forever if not crashed, and are properly maintained and my favourite line Bikes are not cellphones <A> On a Hollowtech II external BB I replaced once, one of the outboard bearings had disintegrated but been successfully ignored by the owner. <S> The metal pieces gouged a big groove into the crank spindle itself (2 piece crank) and the crankset had to be replaced. <S> Taking care of it sooner would have saved the crankset, but in fairness it didn't seem more knackered than anyone else's creaking BB from the outside. <S> So a little unlucky for the owner. <S> Sure, this is a fairly extreme example, but ignoring the noises and feelings from a cheap failing part led to the premature destruction of a rather more expensive part. <S> Not such a risk with cartridge square taper bottom brackets where the whole thing is contained and replaceable together. <A> Another bike, I was stripping it down for an overhaul <S> but it turned out not to be economical to continue. <S> Nearly everything was worn out pretty hard. <S> There was some play in the bottom bracket. <S> Despite being a cartridge type it disintegrated when I removed it and spilled its balls. <S> So quite worn out. <S> I then realised this damage on the chain stays is about where the chain rings would be. <S> I think the play was significant enough to allow the chainrings to gouge the chain <S> stay... <A> It happened to me once with an old racer and a simple open cup BB. <S> One of the cages holding the bearings decided to involve itself in the action, trapping itself between the race and the bearings. <S> The thing became harder and harder to pedal, like someone was adding more glue with every rotation. <S> Back-pedalling gave temporary respite, enough to get me limping home, but not enough for another ride. <S> paraphrase Upshot: as the bearing ate itself, I was unable to keep riding at the same speed, and could have ended up stranded, either walking, or worse having to phone home for a pick-up. <S> Motto: heed the warning signs and act before it's too late.
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Eventually your bearings will disintegrate and your BB will lose its ability to hold the spindle centred withing the BB shell, that will result in the crankset becoming wobbly, your chain will come off, your chainring might even go hit your chainstay and if you're lucky it will happen at low speed. This is what happened to me once: I had a Neco brand bottom bracket that developed a noticeable play (On a mountain bike frame with a mountain triple Shimano crankset).
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Alternating brakes on descents: is it really useful? I heard from many sources (some of them on this site, e.g. on answers to this question here ) that you should be alternating the use of your front and rear brakes . Most people give as a reason that the brakes can cool better that way. I have been mostly doing the same, but I never really understood if it actually helps and/or if there is a good explanation for it. The way I see it: when descending we transform all our potential energy (at some altitude) first to kinetic energy, then to heat in the brake pads/rims/disks. Does it actually matter if we first heat up the front brake a bit more, then the rear brake, then front again etc. compared to just braking evenly with both of them? <Q> I looked at modelling this <S> and it's surprisingly complicated. <S> There are quite a lot of time constants and heat flows to consider. <S> If I had a bunch of logging non-contact thermometers I'd consider an experiment. <S> For a finite length of descent, getting one brake hot enough to lose significant amounts of heat early in the process can help, but heat transfer is linearly proportional to temperature difference, which will counteract the effect of having one brake hot early. <S> The front brake will get more airflow and so cool faster than the back brake; but if you need to stop you'll need the front brake to work well (and predictably), so running downhill with the front brake lightly on probably isn't a good plan. <S> For the same total heat input per brake, if the peak temperature of the braking surface is higher it will lose heat into the air faster, potentially (and this is the hard part to model) reducing the transfer to the rest of the system (tubes for rim brakes, fluid for hydraulic discs). <S> In addition this can only increase the heat lost to air from the working face of the pads as a hot pad touching a hot rim can't give up heat, but a hot pad close to a hot rim with air blowing though the gap can. <S> This is more applicable to rim brakes as the airflow over the pads in a disc sysyem is tiny -- clearances are smaller and there's often a mechanism blocking the airflow. <S> Most pads have poor thermal conductivity meaning little or no heat out the back <S> (sintered metal disc brake pads are an exception). <A> Braking with both brakes at the same will make the braking more effective and shorter, leaving plenty of time in between for the system to cool down. <S> Brakes should be applied for a short period only at maximum intensity until your speed is reduced to the desired level. <S> Having brakes applied and dragging over long periods will keep speed down but only at the expense of considerable temperature rise of the disk, the rim and if it applies of the brake fluid. <S> There will be a risk of failure if the brake fluid reaches boiling temperatures. <S> This is true with any vehicle. <A> On paved roads (road bike, rim wheels) I always brake front and rear simultaneously and repeatedly. <S> This allows a better braking by having a stronger braking (front and rear) and allowing the rims to cool down. <S> Especially with carbon rims or on alpine roads this is actually obligatory. <S> Without the time to cool down for the rims the brake pads will be too hot and not be braking any more and the rims will be also to hot and may led to some tube explosion (latex) or rims damage (carbon). <S> Braking simultaneously and therefore having a stronger braking allows you to be faster before braking and to have a "late" braking. <S> This is my 25 years experience of biking (and racing) on all types of roads in Europe (including the Alps etc...) <A> Heat and temperature are related but not the same. <S> It takes a pretty long decent to over heat brakes. <S> By pumping the brakes more heat is released to the air. <S> Even on disc brakes a small gap is way bigger than no gap. <S> It does not take much air flow to carry off the heat. <S> On a hot day even the slightest breeze makes a difference. <S> Radiant heat will find its way out with no air flow. <S> Under harder braking you will generate less heat as it wears the brake down more and that absorbs some energy. <S> As the brake gets hot it has less friction so more of the kinetic energy goes to heat then temperature. <S> Alternating the brakes allows you to pump the brakes and maintain a constant speed. <S> You could pump both at the same time for equal cooling. <S> A slower decent will have less temperature because the brakes have more time to cool. <S> And the heat is generated at a lower rate. <S> There might be <S> window were medium braking <S> is more than light <S> but if you slow it down then you can pretty much always control temperature. <S> I loaded truck will creep down a long hill. <S> If you feel a brake starting to fade (less friction) stop and let it cool off. <S> On rim brakes you can heat up tires. <S> On disc brakes you can boil the brake fluid. <S> Naturally a bigger disc will have more cooling. <S> I will use the rear on a longer decent as the primary to have some reserve in the front. <S> Don't go into an aero position so more air drag. <A> As a kid, my family used to go on cycle touring holidays around Wales. <S> Once, on a very long downhill, several miles, my front tire exploded from overheating - from rim brakes, obviously. <S> Don't know if this is a common occurrence, but it might explain the alternating thing.
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In practical terms you might want to think about the failure modes if both brakes are working equally hard: If you need to slow down more but both sets of pads/rims/discs/brake fluid are already hot you have less in reserve than if one is cooling while the other is heating -- that last bit of braking might be enough to tip you over the edge.
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26 inch wheels and fork on a 27.5+ frame I have a 26 inch bike(Specialized Rockhopper 2007) with decent wheels and fork. I want a more slacker head tube and better geometry than what i have now. I might be interested in one of Ragley Marley, Ragley Piglet Ragley Bluepig frames. My fork is not tapered. I know there are some conversion rings for that. I wanted to know if i can transfer all parts from the present bike to this new frame. I am little bit apprehensive about quick releases. I heard some frames take thicker quick release rods. <Q> Overall its probably cheaper and certainly easier to sell the bike you have and buy the one you want. <S> The bottom bracket and seat post are unlikely to be compatible. <S> You may need a new chain as the chain stay length could be longer. <A> Check if the new frame you are getting has the same rear axle as your current one. <S> If I am not wrong, the piglet has QR axle <S> and it is a really good steel bike IMO. <S> Other than that, you must check the following: <S> Seat clamp Bb size Tire clearence <S> Headset size <S> Hope it helps. <A> Answering the core question here, no, it for most intents and purposes won't work to run 26" wheels and conventional trail/XC tires, say 2.4 or less, in a 27.5+ frame. <S> The outside diameter of the tires is way smaller, dropping the BB height beyond practicality and into the realm of regular issues with pedal strike etc. <S> It's almost exactly as though you were putting 26" on a 29er. <S> (Tire OD is basically the same between 29x2.3ish and 27.5x2.8.)
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The new frame is likely a though axle, and may have a wider (Boost) spacing, meaning the rear hub will need adapters or replacing. Building a bike from a 27.5 frame with 26 components you may end up with a bike geometry that is 'out' and handles worse than you already have.
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Possible to fit 7 Bikes in a Van/SUV? I am going on a long 200 mile tour over 3 days with six other people. We are riding down to Washington DC and then renting a car to drive back. We thought we could rent a Van or SUV and have two people drive that and fit all the bikes in it if the seats fold down. Then Rent another car for the rest of the people to fit in and drive back. The bikes will mostly be 26 inch tire bikes with medium to large frames. Two of the bikes will be large framed 700cc tired bikes. Any suggestions if this is possible? <Q> remove the wheels spin <S> the bar turn the fork 180 to pick up a bit <S> remove the seat with post remove the pedals (this is also for damage control) <S> use boxes for padding wheels on top deflate the tires <S> I think I could get 7 in my 4 Runner <S> but it would be close. <S> You could even drop the fork and leave the cables attached to put the bar in the triangle. <A> I fit 5 beefy mtb bikes in the back of my small Nissan frontier without taking anything off. <S> Removing the seats will help as the handlebars will want to hit them. <S> They will get scratched to heck, no matter how hard you try otherwise. <S> Watch that nothing is near the stanctions. <S> Your shifters will want to rub on the adjacent bikes frame. <S> I wouldn't do it with new bikes ... <S> but if they are already scratched, what's an extra rub mark? <S> Steve J <A> You could either pull a small trailer (u-haul or other rental places will rent them) or use a bicycle hitch mount. <S> With this option, be sure to lock the bikes solidly to the hitch mount or trailer with the sturdiest chain lock (not cable lock) that you can afford. <S> It's very easy for someone to snip a cable lock while you're waiting at a red light or at a fast food drive-thru and steal your bikes without you even noticing. <A> Look for a company that will rent you a real van. <S> You can get like 10 bikes and gear in a Chevy Express or GMC Savana with the seats removed.
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You might also want to see if the van has a trailer hitch. I can get easily get 4 or five bikes in the back of my Savana and still have room for other stuff. 7 can be done but you will have to remove the pedals, it is the only way. Also, alternate the directions the bikes face.
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Why does this bike have bosses on the bottom of the down tube? What can the bosses on the down tube, next to the front wheel, be used for? The only thing I can think of is a mountain bike style mudguard, but I've only seen ones that clip on. Evans' Cycles website . Click to zoom in: <Q> I would have to assume those are the... <S> Extra Features: <S> Tyre clearance for up to 700 x 45c with full mudguard and rack mounts ... <S> that are mentioned on their website. <S> Too far apart and to close to the tire to be anything else really. <A> They are most likely bosses for a "Crud Catcher", a type of mudguard usually clipped to the downtube. <S> Some frames allow them to be bolted to it rather than fastened on with rubber o-rings. <A> It looks like a road morph like I've got or an old fashioned pump would fit there. <S> Most pump brackets will fit bottle cage screws or clamp on directly to the frame <S> so it seems a bit unnecessary. <S> I was right next to one of these bikes on the train yesterday and there's quite a bit of clearance there.
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That's where I put my pump, so maybe they're for a pump.
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We offer our riders shared helmets. What sanitizing spray or barrier product can we provide alongside the helmets? We are lucky enough to have four shared bikes at work, which are available for any employee to ride. Due to New Zealand's compulsory helmet laws, we must provide some shared helmets. Some people don't like that idea, but it's not reasonable to ask them to provide their own if they don't have a bike. What's a helmet-safe anti-cootie spray ? Isopropyl alcohol ?Or should we be providing disposable hairnets like go-kart tracks offer to their patrons? Disinfectants/deodorants like Dettol or Febreze? Related - there is a bike rental scheme in my city (a bike-share system) and they also must provide helmets for riders. There is a periodic clean of the helmet when the bike is serviced, and they claim that happens 3 times a week Often these helmets stay in the bike's front basket instead of being worn, but they live outside <Q> I'd be wary of using IPA because it may affect the glues used in the helmet, even if it doesn't attack the foam in any obvious way. <S> And the manufacturer would probably advise against it (and many other disinfectants). <S> With regards to headlice, the CDC say Spread by contact with clothing (such as hats, scarves, coats) or other personal items (such as combs, brushes, or towels) used by an infested person is uncommon. <S> but how uncommon is another matter (other authorities disagree, but anyway headlice die in a day or so off a person). <S> Ringworm (actually a fungal infection tinea capitis ) may be more of a worry, but it's not common in adults to start with. <S> Disinfectants can stop it spreading. <S> I don't know how maintenance of the bikes and helmets will be arranged, but I think passive or minimal-effort solutions are probably going to be best. <S> It will cost more upfront but will extend the lives of the helmets so won't cost much more in the long run. <S> Storing them where they'll dry quickly is a big step in stopping them smelling. <S> Cheap helmets with little or no absorbent padding over the foam part will be able to absorb less sweat, and shared helmets won't fit everyone very well anyway. <S> If you get better helmets with removable pads, someone can wash the pads -- but who? <S> When? <S> Where? <S> This would reduce the load on the shared helmets. <S> I keep an old helmet under my desk, and would lend it with the bike I keep near work. <A> Have you also considered that Under NZ Heath and Safety laws, you have a responsibly to keep your workers safe <S> - you have to ensure you are not endangering there health though poor hygiene. <S> One thing you could do is ring Worksafe NZ and ask them for advice as to what you obligations are regards keeping helmets clean. <S> I imagine its a similar problem to hazardous areas and hard hats for guests. <S> EBay sells hotel shower caps for around $5/100. <S> Less than ideal from a sweating POV, but certainly provide the protection needed. <S> Workers who don't want to use these could provide their own helmet, or use a washable liner (At this time of year a beanie would work nicely). <S> A regular clean with soapy water would be all that is needed. <S> You cold also investigate reusable/washable liners - either one each for staff to use, or have a heap of them and launder them regularly. <S> e.g <S> Cycling Cap Bicycle Helmet Wear Headband Cap <S> Quick Dry Bike Hat <S> (Sorry for the shopping reference). <S> See if you can get budget to make these a giveaway to anyone who wanted to use the bikes. <A> Considering the health concerns, between any number of skin-borne infectiions, diseases and just the general grossness of other people's sweat touching me... <S> I don't think the bank of shared helmets is a good idea at all. <S> There are deodorizing and disinfectant products out there, I just did a quick google search for "bowling alley shoe rental spray" and came up with a lot of answers, which will probably go a long way towards getting those safe to use for multiple users. <S> However, there just isn't any info at all about whether that stuff is safe on helmet foams or glue used to attach helmet foam to shell. <S> I would worry about the risk of making the helmet less effective. <S> The best case scenario would be for each employee who uses them to have their own helmet. <A> Dawn and a little bleach in warm water will kill just about everything, or some sanitizer like they use in meat production like a quaternary ammonia chloride. <S> Alcohol based stuff is useless it doesn’t effect germs and viruses like the maker advertises.
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Some ideas: Just having plenty of helmets so they've got time to dry out thoroughly should help. (I have tried laundry bleach for destinking but find a good soak in homebrew sterilser most effective). Regular users of these bikes (perhaps cyclists who for whatever reason don't bring their own bike to work) may be encouraged to use their own helmet -- perhaps a bulk-buy discount could be arranged. I doubt a hairnet would help, as forehead sweat is probably the biggest issue that will get complaints (I suspect people will react more to unpleasantness than any real risk of catching anything).
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How to prevent chain looking dirty one ride after cleaning it! I try and clean my chain regularly and particularly when it's wet or dirty. Despite my chain looking pristine clean once I have finished it often looks black and oily again after just one commute of 18 miles (on dry tarmac). When cleaning my chain I use muc-off chain cleaner on the chain and the rest of the drive train and then I use chain cleaner in one of these gadgets to get right into the chain links. Once that is all done I rinse the chain with a garden hose and I usually let it sit in the garage for an hour or so before I then oil the chain. I wipe excess oil off the chain with a rag when I am done. I think that possibly I am not removing the de-greaser properly or not letting the chain dry properly before applying the oil... Any advice much appreciated, I love it when my chain is nice and sparkly but when it gets black and oily again straight away it's pretty annoying! Thanks <Q> Wiping off excess oil with a rag is good, but there will still be extra oil hidden inside the links in-between the roller and bushings. <S> This is what comes to the surface once you start riding. <S> You can try spinning the drive train a bit (to bring this oil up) before wiping down a second time. <S> Typically, you will need to wipe the chain off again even after a short ride. <S> Personally, I prefer a thicker oil, so that after second or third wipe to get the chain really clean I don't touch it again for a couple hundred km. <S> A lighter oil needs to be applied sooner, meaning less time running clean. <S> Also, when you spray with water it typically takes longer than an hour to dry the water inside the links. <S> As such, when you are adding oil it may not penetrate as well due to water being in the system. <S> This could further contribute to the dirty mess you are seeing. <S> Using solvents on the chain too early also removes the factory lube (typically a type of wax), which reduces chain longevity. <S> As the chain gets older, less factory lube remains and cleaning with a solvent becomes a non-issue. <A> Don't "oil" your chain. <S> Oil lubricants will take the worn metal from your bushings (which will appear black) and transport them to the outside of the chain. <S> This is normally a good thing but it also looks bad. <S> The oil also attracts street grime. <S> If you use a dry PTFE or lithium based lubricant, then the PTFE stays inside, the carrier will evaporate and there's less movement of residue and nothing for grime to stick to. <S> Cleaning and oiling chains are a religious issue and there's severe factionalism. <S> Some would argue that you want the worn metal pulled out of the bearings where it's causing more wear (thus: oil) <S> others would say that oil attracts road grime which causes wear (thus: dry lube). <S> I'm on the side of dry lubes as my bikes live inside my house and spousal approval <S> requires clean appearing chains. <S> Besides, chains are cheap. <S> I also should mention for completeness the availability of hot wax based lubricants. <S> If you have time and don't mind a mess, this is also an option. <S> Ps. <S> There's no reason for you to wash or rinse your chain with water. <S> That's just asking for moisture to be trapped in the bushings where it'll cause rust. <S> A shop rag will do just fine. <A> Use a dry lubricant - oil attracts grit & dirt. <S> Seem to recall that graphite based lubricants are good, but a bit messy. <S> Once that is all done I rinse the chain with a garden hose <S> and I usually let it sit in the garage for an hour or so before I then oil the chain. <S> Effective degreasing + water + wait a while sounds like a recipe for corrosion. <A> Here is one answer. <S> Its simple physics . <S> It has a lot to do with fluid dynamics , and wear & tear and the drag coefficient , commonly denoted as or is a dimensionless quantity that is used to quantify the drag or resistance of an object in a fluid environment, such as air or water, fluid oil film etc. <S> Im a cyclist <S> , I battle to keep my chain and chainrings clean too. <S> I do around 350 - 450 KM per week that includes racing at my clubs. <S> So you can test this yourself. <S> Get two, cut flat smooth bar squares of steel or stainless or hardened steel. <S> Rub them together with a bit of force that generates lots of friction with some oil or WD40, after a time of rubbing and more rubbing, this simulated friction and rubbing motion, the oil film turns metallic silver, and then grey, then metallic black in colour. <S> Now that added with micro crap on the ground and air, grit, like sand, salts thats on the road or gravel starts to make a black metallic paste. <S> One ride, black like axle grease. <S> You only need a small amount to see what the plastic tub has collected. <S> Go into the sunlight, there you will see micro metal and flakes and particles etc in the solution. <S> You can look further into this by pouring the solution you just collected into some filter paper, or toilet tissue to collect the debris particles to look at with a magnifying lens : )
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Set length of your dirty chain over a plastic tub, and rinse it with some petrol or brake cleaner fluid or thinners some sort of hydrocarbon. In terms or real world use I measured a 30% reduction in chain life if you strip the factory lube out early.
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How to release brakes to install front tire So, 21 yo mountain bike w/o quick release brake system. Reinstalling a front tire that was repaired but confused on easiest/simpliest way to release brakes so the fat 'ol tire can be seated. I do realize I can deflate the tire but wanted to learn another method. I don't want to create a mess by going at it w/o a bit of guidance - any help would be most appreciated <Q> There should actually be a quick release option with those older cantilever brakes. <S> On the caliper on the left (if you are looking directly at the bike from the front) where the straddle cable attaches to the caliper is a small metallic object connected to the cable that you can pull out of the caliper. <S> This will release the brake so you can remove/ replace the wheel. <A> The intended method is to unhook the cable from the far cantilever in the photograph. <S> If there is no wedge shaped piece, push the cable into the caliper to free it. <S> Some straddle cables have a piece of metal on the cable to help you do this <S> but I can't see one in your photo. <S> There is video and pictorial explanation here: http://www.madegood.org/bikes/repair/open-a-cantilever-brake/ <A> I see two ways to release that. <S> On the non-nutted brake arm there appears to be a groove the cable can move around in to release the barrel end from that arm. <S> Alternatively, you can also pull a little slack in the straddle cable from both sides and un-hook it from the yoke hanger.
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Hopefully the straddle cable end fitting has a wedge-shaped bit sticking out of the back of the calliper, as visible on the far left here: .Squeeze the two brake arms together, and pull on this wedge, and lift the metal cylindrical part out of the slot.
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Comfort Bike for commuting? I currently have a Trek 3500 Mountain bike which I use for commuting 34km total each day. I did put on thinner tires. My average speed is about 20 - 22 km/hrI'm tired of the leaning forward all the time and was considering getting a "comfort bike" where the handlebars are higher than the seat. This would provide a much more enjoyable view/ride. I'm thinking something like this: http://www.primeauvelo.com/en/cypress-dx-42604-0014040.html IMHO I am guessing (please correct if I'm wrong) that once you go non-road bike, the differences of hybrids are marginal. I believe most (all?) hybrids have more or less the same top speed, and my question is - would a comfort bike be more or less the same as a hybrid, but a hell of a lot more comfy. <Q> I commute on 28 km/day at 22-25 km/h average. <S> I normally use a city bike, where I am not exactly leaning forward but neither sitting at 90 degrees. <S> However, I had to use for an entire week a different model, where I was more "seated": <S> though at the beginning I was feeling more relaxed, on the long run <S> it was not that comfortable: keeping a decent pace was a struggle (drag and head wind, feet slipping on pedals), and also the steering was far less precise than I wanted, resulting in slower rides. <S> Maybe see if you can borrow such a (or similar) bike and use it for a week or so, before switching to it. <A> My experience of comfort bikes isn't good. <S> I find them less comfortable. <S> That's as someone who learnt to ride on a cheap mountain bike (probably too small for me) and then a hybrid. <S> A shorter, higher stem can make a huge difference to your existing bike and is cheap to try, but you'd still have the suspension <S> and I can't see whether that locks out. <S> I was very happy with a hybrid on a similar length commute to you (with hills). <S> My average speed (including stops for junctions etc.) was similar, but there were very few stretches where the bike was the limit - traffic and hills were. <S> Your assumption of all hybrids having the same top speed isn't quite right: Some have front suspension. <S> Not enough for mountain biking but enough to steal some of your effort. <S> It can't necessarily be locked out and even if it can its heavy. <S> As sold the tyres vary from nearly slick to nearly mountain. <S> As used there's even more variation. <S> Knobbly tyres slow you down. <S> If you encounter a lot of hills or even just do a lot of stop-start riding, weight makes a difference, and the weight variation in hybrids is a lot. <S> The upright sitting position of a comfort bike is likely to make it slower - even at the speeds we're talking about air drag is relevant, and it's not a position designed for efficient power transfer. <S> You're going to need a good test ride on the right sort of roads, ideally measuring your speed, if you're going to get something in the sweet spot between speed and riding position. <A> I strongly recommend you keep your hybrid bike, since comfort bikes are generally quite heavy/slow. <S> After you get used to a faster bike, especially if you use clip pedals, it is hard to use a comfort bike. <A> Not all hybrids are the same. <S> There are some $2500 carbon out there now that will clearly outperform a a $600. <S> In general a comfy bike is not going to perform better than a similar priced hybrid. <S> And it is not going to be a hell of as lot more comfortable. <S> I don't recommend a shock as it eats up pedal energy and does not add to comfort in my opinion. <S> Run larger tires (like 35 - 38mm). <S> In the $650+ range you find a lot of nice hybrid / city / fitness to consider. <S> They are are going to perform better. <S> If you even care about performance. <S> Or just extend the stem for like $40 <A> Hybrids bikes come in various flavors between being more road-ready or more trail-ready. <S> Some hybrids are road-bikes in disguise and while others are just a pair of knobby tires short of a "mountain" bike. <S> You seem to looking for one that is at least 70% road oriented. <S> Also, Think about what is more important for you when you commute? <S> Speed or comfort? <S> getting to work in record time? <S> or getting to work without any aches or pains? <S> Just based on aerodynamics alone, it's hard to have both. <S> Riding Hybrid bikes you will still be to leaning forward, decreasing the air resistance and going faster. <S> Riding a comfort bike you will sit straight, increasing the air resistance and thus going slower. <A> You can also consider changing your handlebars to allow you to sit more upright on your current bike. <S> Something like a northroad style bar brings your hands further back and higher up. <S> I switched to one like this on my commuter bike. <S> http://harriscyclery.net/product/sunlite-north-road-style-handlebar-aluminum-2765.htm
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Perhaps you could try to have a good bike fit on your hybrid to improve your comfort when cycling. Take a look at any manufacturer's website and see the various hybrid models they offer and see the difference in components like tires, gear ratios, component materials, and frame geometry.
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What happened to riding with no hands? I remember, as a kid in the seventies we were able to ride blocks without ever touching the handlebars.Today, I only see road-bikers riding without hands - and this is rarely. I almost never see hybrid or mtb bikers go without hands. What happened? Is it because I got older that I don't have the sense of balance anymore? Or are bikes made differently in the sense that they're not self-balancing? Or is it the forward positioning?? <Q> Nothing happened or changed. <S> Many children's bikes have relatively relaxed geometry, which makes them stable which has benefits for kids. <S> Mountain bikers value fast handling over stability, and so do many road cyclists. <S> However, many triathlons or time trials are events where maneuverability is not important, so many of those frames are much more stable. <S> Touring bikes are also in that group. <S> I have a bike built up from a nashbar touring frame, that is so stable <S> I can nearly fall asleep while riding. <S> I hop off that bike and hop onto an 80s <S> Bianchi racing bike, and trying to ride no-handed at any speed less than 35 mph (55 km/h) is virtually an instant crash. <S> My surly cross check is in the middle of that range. <A> I think there's a large element of selection bias, combined with changes to roads and traffic rather than bikes. <S> When you were a kid you used to ride with kids who rode a lot, probably on fairly quiet roads. <S> Kids probably ride less than they used to, especially on roads with traffic. <S> You're probably riding <S> busier roads - traffic has increased in many places; on top of that you're likely to be riding a direct route to get somewhere. <S> On the other hand for training, racing or social rides you're likely to be going a long distance on unpopulated roads,while your riding partners (if any) get on with riding - in even a loose group <S> you haven't got much margin for error. <S> On the bike paths round here I regularly see people riding no hands; neighbour's kids do too. <S> There are also people riding on the pavement (or sidewalk, it's illegal to ride there whatever you call it) <S> no hands, but much more rarely on the roads. <S> I bet you also saw a lot of wheelies when you were a kid too, and don't see many of those any more -- it's the same effect. <A> The biggest influence on how a bike steers is 'trail'. <S> Trail is the distance that the contact area of the front tyre on the ground trails behind a line drawn through the steering axis to the ground. <S> (see the Wikipedia on bike geometry ) <S> It would be interesting to find if 'trail' lengths have changed over time, and thus the ease of riding hands-free has changed. <A> Look Ma, no hands! <S> Look Ma, no feet! <S> Look Ma, no teeth! <S> The point is, you cannot ride a bike without touching at least one more point than your saddle. <S> When you ride without hands, that second point is your feet. <S> Lose the pedals from under your feet, and disaster is unavoidable. <S> You won't be able to do anything about it. <S> You won't be able to grab the bar, you won't be able to brake (the brake levers are on the bar), and you won't be able to steer. <S> If you happen to be heading into a moat, you'll go into the moat. <S> If you happen to be heading for a wall, you'll go into the wall. <S> If you happen to be heading at a truck, you'll go into the truck. <S> You are just a passive passenger on your way to disaster. <S> When you ride without hands, your pedals are a single point of failure . <S> Thus, you are risking your life for absolutely no gain. <S> This allows them to pull the pedal up at the back stroke, but it also makes their connection to their pedals much more failsafe than when you ride without this feature. <S> So, the best possible answer to your question would be: Because riders have wised up and learned to avoid this needlessly dangerous behavior. <S> I don't know whether that's actually the case, though. <S> Ps: I learned this the hard way, including four weeks on crutches. <S> Even a quarter century later, this accident still scores as my worst accident ever. <S> Please learn from my experience instead of making your own. <A> Larger wheels with heavier tyres have both more rotational inertia, essentially acting like a big gyro that stabilises the ride, and also higher damping through losses in the rubber, which has a further stabilising effect. <S> Just putting heavier tyres on the same bike can make it easier to ride it hands-free (and heavier tyres are obviously counterproductive if you want to go <S> fast).And <S> then there is the location of the handlebar and everything attached to it with regard to the steering <S> axis: a long stem that brings the handlebars way forward of the steering axis stabilises and makes it easier to ride hands-free, while a short stem together with handlebars angled backwards makes it harder.
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Bikes built for adults usually aren't as stable, because stability and maneuverability are at odds with each other, and the adult riders want the maneuverability. It's just your observational bias coupled with different demographics preferring different bike capabilities. Now, road racers click their feet into their pedals. If you do not have this extra safe connection to your pedals, don't ride without hands. Now you ride as an adult, you see fewer kids riding, and pay less attention to them. Besides the variables mentioned in the other answers, most importantly trail, i.e., the distance between the points where the steering axis crosses the ground, and where the front tyre touches the ground, there are a few further key variables.
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Maillard sprocket: is really this rare? Due to (understandably) large wear after 16 years of usage, I wanted to replace sprocket, chainwheel and chain on my byke. With my surprise the workshop where I took my byke was not able to find a spare for the sprocket, a 6 speed Maillard, and told that in the Netherlands they are pretty rare. They tried to install a 6 speed Shimano but it did not fit. I did also a quick search on some spare parts dealers in Italy, and also they didn't have it. Is it really that rare, or I have been simply out of luck? <Q> If the Shimano freewheel didn't fit, it means that your bike uses French threading for the freewheel (which isn't surprising given that it has a Maillard freewheel; the other non-bmx standards are interchangable). <S> You're basically out of luck and need a new wheel (or at least new hub). <S> Depending on the hub, you may have to re-space the frame(*), since 6 speed likely means 126 mm rear spacing, where a newer hub would be 130 or 135 mm. <S> This isn't difficult, and a shop that has a decent amount of clients with older bikes should be able to do this easily. <S> You can also still find 126 mm wheels on the market if you look (Velo Orange still sells them, for example), so you wouldn't need to respace the frame. <S> Or, you can respace it yourself . <S> But this is the way I'd go. <S> (*) <S> Assuming its steel, which given the age, it probably is. <A> It's also possible he has a Maillard Helicomatic hub ( http://www.yellowjersey.org/helico.html ) in which case it wouldn't be compatible with ANYTHING. <S> At the moment they're not as expensive as I thought, about $50 for a freewheel. <A> If you are lucky the threads are English and not French. <S> If so I think you can get any new freewheels to fit. <S> But they will be 7sp.
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You can usually find replacement freewheels and lockrings for those on ebay.
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Bicycle clicking awfully, with video I'm getting tired of debugging this noise, which seems to come from the back. I have sent it to the bike shop, for the second time, and they couldn't fix it. This sound came around 2 weeks after I bought it.It's not just sound; you can feel it in with every pedals revolution. They guy said the bottom bracket was loose, and that he greased, lubed and tightened everything. For a while it was smooth, but 2 hours later it returned. It seems to come from the back (I always believed it was the pedals because you felt it there), but once I went down and got a friend to ride it it most definitely comes from the gears in the back. It can't be replicated but under tension and the most use the worse it get. I only use the bike to go to work, I honestly don't know how it got that bad. ============ Update: they replaced the casette and I haven't heard the sound so far. <Q> I guess you need to be methodical about discounting possibilities. <S> Have you got any spare pedals you can put on to see if it's them? <S> Even just borrow a mate's set for 10 minutes. <S> Given that it always seems to be at the same parts of the pedal rotation I would discount the rear of the bike since the alignment of everything there varies with gearing. <S> Make sure the axle doesn't shift side to side and that the crank arm on the non-drive side is sitting snugly enough to the bottom bracket. <S> Are you short of some balls in there. <S> Did the bike shop do as they said? <S> Get a new bottom bracket. <S> They're often cheaper than you'd expect and fitting them isn't too bad. <S> Even fitting press-fit bearings is easy with some threaded bar and some big washers. <S> Of course your LBS can do this too. <S> I've had some creaks on my bike which happens to be carbon but because of this, the seat post noise seams to travel and sounds like a bottom bracket creak. <S> Do something similar just in case. <S> It certainly can't harm. <A> Looking at the video it seems the clicks are at the same point in the pedal rotation each time. <S> Based on that I'd say it's your bottom bracket or your peddles not being tightly connected to the bottom bracket. <S> You can investigate this a little more by flipping over the bike and resting it on the seat and handlebars, then apply pressure to both pedals at the same time in both the rotating direction and perpendicular to it checking for any play. <S> If there's any play try to determine where it is coming from. <S> It could be that a pedal is not tightly connected to the bottom bracket axle (especially if you only feel movement in one peddle) or it could be that the bottom bracket is loose or the axle broken in which case you ought to feel movement in both pedals. <A> If you are climbing most likely the noise is a loose rear hub. <S> Very often the noise is emplified in the bottom bracket. <S> Tightening less than a quarter turn of the pre-load will kill the noise. <S> I spent 6 months to locate thr noise. <S> The good thing is adjustments can be made with a Mavic tool without removing the wheel from tbe frame. <S> Hope this helps.
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It sounds like bearings slipping around but a lot of rattles and clicks sound similar on a bike. Check for play down at the bottom bracket. Take the crank shaft out and check the bearings yourself. It turned out to be fixable with a wipe down and some carbon paste in the end. My Mavic SLS wheel had this trouble.
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Cracked chainstay weld -- now what? Yesterday while riding my Surly Ogre around town I noticed that it was making a weird metallic popping noise on the left downstroke. When I got home to take a look I was rather surprised to find that the right chainstay had broken completely free of the dropout at the weld (see pic at bottom). The frame is out of warranty, so my options seem to be a) buy a new frame or b) try to weld it back. I know nothing about welding, and there is no frame builder in town, but a local machine shop said they could sandblast and TIG weld it back together for $120. My question is a) is this safe and b) is it worth it? The frame set me back ~$440 when I bought it new 5 years ago. So the repair option saves money, but I'd want to be sure the same problem will not arise again in a few years. Also I'm unsure whether it can be rewelded sufficiently strongly. More generally, what I can do to prevent this from reoccurring? I weigh 175lbs, I've never crashed the bike and have used it exclusively for commuting and ferrying groceries. Back when I built it I sprayed the inside with cosmoline, and it's been kept in a dry climate, so frame rust also doesn't seem like an explanation. I'm puzzled as to how such a beefy bike (to quote Surly's own marketing copy) could fail so catastrophically in a fairly short amount of time. <Q> Get in touch with Surly even if it out of warranty. <S> The worst they can do is say no, and even if they won't fix it, they should be able to offer advise on the the best way to proceed. <S> They live or die based on peoples perception of the brand, so have a vested interest in helping you resolve this kind of problem. <S> Any competent engineering shop should be able to make a reliable repair on Cromo. <S> frames. <A> There are possibly some ways a framebuilder could come up with to make it stronger than new as well. <S> (Another approach could be to put in new dropouts completely, to try and accomplish the same things.) <S> I think it's pretty safe to say that unless it was a defect that got you here to begin with, just going in and re-welding it probably won't make it as strong as new. <S> The frame alignment could get a little screwed up. <S> Non-bike welders have a tendency to not be prepared for just how thin walled bike tubing is. <S> The dropout end of the chainstay actually is just about the thickest walled tube on a bike, so this effect might be minimized here, but the risk is that they blow through it or just do a bad job on the weld because of it, and the flip side is that dropout is very heavy too. <S> (Generally speaking, one of the challenges of bike frames is managing your heat control when you're joining a thin-walled, low-mass thing to a heavy, slabby thing like a burly dropout or a bottom bracket.) <S> What I would do if Surly doesn't offer anything is send this pic to the nearest reputable framebuilder who does TIG steel mountain bikes, and ask what they think. <S> A side note is that one of the big questions here is what the dropout alignment was like during the life of the bike so far. <S> Poor dropout alignment often causes failure in this area, as the materials are dealing with a permanent stress from the QR or axle nut forcing them parallel, and the stresses of being a right chainstay are added on top of that. <S> It's sometimes the dropout itself that fails in these cases, but the one in question here is on the strong and totally inflexible side, so the joint would bear the brunt of it. <A> for what it's worth, I've gone through 4 Surly Troll/Ogre frames over the last four years, all four have cracked at the chainstay (twice on the drive side, twice on the non-drive side) weld. <S> They just did a new redesign in 2017 on both models <S> and I had high hopes - <S> but the 2017 Troll I got after six months of backordering and then trying to get it <S> warranty replaced by Surly, it lasted 2500 miles before it broke again. <S> I'm not bothering to try to get it replaced again (it seems harder and harder to get it replaced under warranty each time - I'm done with wasting my local bike shop's time trying to get it done). <S> I'm going to have the local bike shop (which also does frame building) blast the surfaces, weld it, braze on a brace around the chainstay and do the other side while they're at it. <S> (I might not be using the terms right <S> , I don't know anything about welding myself.) <S> I don't know what is going on with their manufacturing, but the chainstay/dropout weld is an incredible weak point on the troll/ogres. <S> I would have never bought a Surly bike if I'd known beforehand, or how much time it would take us to get them warrantied each time we had to do it. <S> I've given up on them, even though the design of the bikes is perfect for me. <S> (and the time the chainstay on my Ogre broke, it was 40 miles from home as the sun was setting and I had to get up & down a 2200 foot mountain to get back home where there was no cell phone service or cars around. <S> I was very displeased with surly on that day in particular. <S> The descent was even harder than the ascent.)
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Just getting it welded by a non-framebuilder could have a couple caveats: I think most framebuilders would approach this in a way where they get full access to the broken face of the dropout, so they could work it down smooth, and then replace either all or part of the chainstay, the goal being to re-do the miter between the chainstay and the dropout to get as much contact area as possible, for as much strength as possible.
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Distance discrepancies between Strava and bike computer I have an established 16 mile mountain bike loop I've been riding for a long time. I recently purchased a Magellan Cyclo 315 bike computer which I load files to Strava Premium from. Everything works great except the distance data. The distance value on the computer is always very close to 16 miles, but when I upload the data to Strava (.gpx file) the distance is between 15.2 and 15.4 miles. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem? <Q> It might have to do with how frequently the computer writes your GPS location to file. <S> To optimize storage some write out a location to file once every few seconds, but carry out its own calculations on a higher resolution dataset in-memory before purging. <S> If your route is quite twisty this can result in a shorter distance as Strava (and everyone else) assumes a straight line between locations in a .gpx file <S> (this is really the only workable assumption). <S> Check your bike computer settings, some allow you to specify the recording resolution (e.g., once per second). <S> The downside could be that your computer may not be able to store as many tracks as a lower resolution setting (e.g., once every 5 seconds). <A> If you have the 315hc model with the speed/cadence sensor then there can be a discrepancy if your wheel size is entered incorrectly. <S> (most likely also incorporating other people's data who have used the same route) that doesn't correspond to your wheel-distance or gps-distance as calculated by your GPS. <A> Strava has a proprietary secret algorithm for internally calculating distance, which involves smoothing the GPS data internally, although the original GPS data points are still stored in your history. <S> If that Strava-calculated distance varies from the device distance more than a threshold, Strava replaces the device distance with the Strava distance. <S> The Strava distance is not calculated by mapping your course to road and measuring the distance along a road. <S> Strava distance also does not account for elevation change - while that is negligent for shallow slopes, you will be losing ~2% of your distance will climbing a 10% slope. <S> Strava's distance algorithm tends to lose distance over windy roads, perhaps because it is by design blind to the actual road traveled, so the windiness is removed as noise. <S> It shouldn't be difficult to calibrate your distance sensor along a track of known distance. <S> Then you can know the answer. <A> There is a combination of 2 things that might be going on here.1- <S> Depending on the sampling frequency it can make it look as though you are zig-zagging and add a bit of distance vs your actual path traveled. <S> Some algorithms can smooth this out but it is not 100% accurate. <S> 2- <S> Your cycle computer's readout may based on the speed sensor which uses the rotation of your wheel & the diameter of that wheel. <S> It multiplies the number of rotations by the tire circumference in order to obtain total distance traveled. <S> There is a setting in your cycle computer to change the tire circumference and make it more accurate. <S> The circumference depends on your wheel size, tire size, inflation and wear. <S> If it is not accurate, it would give you a faulty distance measurement : https://www.cateye.com/data/resources/Tire_size_chart_ENG.pdf <S> lists some of the circumferences for different wheel and tire sizes
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Strava prefers wheel sensors over GPS because of GPS update frequency issues that the other answer notes has its own proprietary way of calculating distance The GPS trail you have has a certain degree of uncertainty (+- 1 to 10m depending on signal quality).
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Noisy chain when under tension I've recently purchased a second hand Orbea with a 105 groupset, and I've noticed the chain makes a rubbing-like noise when in the big front ring. It's not rubbing anywhere though - the gears are perfectly indexed, both at the front and rear, and the limits are set correctly on both. Gear shifting is perfect, both on the way up and the way down, on both front and rear derailleurs. I'm not sure of the history of the bicycle, nor how many miles it's done, but my first task was to degrease the chain and cassette and lubricate everything back up again - so it's very well lubricated and free of any dirt and grime - but no amount of lubricant makes this noise go away. The noise disappears when in the smaller front chain ring, specifically when the rear derailleur puts the chain under less tension. The chain is practically silent. When in the larger front chain ring, the rear derailleur puts the chain under more tension and the noise appears. If I keep it in the large front chain ring but take the tension out of the chain by moving rear derailleur by hand, the noise disappears. Does anyone know what might be causing this? <Q> Hard to diagnose without visual access to the bike, but in my experience, some causes of such noise can be misalignment of the rear deraileur - possibly caused by a bent hanger. <S> Watch this Park Tool video on rear deraileur hanger alignment: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment <A> Here is a suggestion that might help with your troubleshooting. <S> It might be the b-tension screw that needs to be adjusted. <S> If you say the noise appears under tension, check if the g-pulley (upper pulley) on your derailleur is somehow rubbing the largest gears in the back the wrong way :) <S> Here's a video tutorial on adjusting the b-tension screw . <S> This could happen because of a to short chain or bad derailleur (having play). <S> This one is also easy to check, by looking at the rear sprockets when the noise is present (should be done on a bike stand). <A> I had this issue and it ended up being the rear derailleur was bad. <S> The hanger was straight, but derailleur was damaged. <S> Replaced it and now it's fine. <S> Upfraded from a GX to an X01 too.
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Another suggestion that comes to my mind is that the derailleur arm could possibly give under tension and bend to the right or to the left, causing the shifting to be imprecise and rubbing the sprockets.
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What considerations are there around replacement of cable-actuated disc brakes with hydraulic-actuated calipers? I have a Dawes Discovery 401 hybrid bike that was fitted with QuadQMD-6 mechanical disc brakes. I like the bike but the brakes are beginning to show signs of wear and direct replacements are not available. So I was thinking of replacing the calipers with hydraulic ones and converting the cable-operated system to a hydraulic one. I'm pretty handy with a spanner and would like to try this myself. Is it easy to convert from cable to hydraulic and what bits would I need for adapting the cable runs? Is there anything else I need to consider? I don't want to spend a fortune but would like a decent set.Rotors: 160mmMount: post. <Q> If the brake lever is integrated with the shiftier, you will need a new shifter. <S> Cable run for Hydraulic will be continuous, and you wont have C-Clip mounts. <S> You will need to use zip ties to hold the cable to the frame. <S> Functionally there is no problem with this, how you feel about this depends entirely on if you prefer form or function. <S> MTB Caliper mounts have been standard for 15 years or so (Road has a different standard introduced by shimano in 2010 ). <S> In most cases you will be able to unbolt the mechanical calipers and bolt on the new ones, however some calipers are aimed as a different minimum rotor size. <S> This means you may need a new adapter depending what you have and what you get. <S> As long as the new caliper minimum rotor size is not larger than the rotor you have, you can get an adapter to fit. <S> I would think about installing new rotors (although $$ is a consideration). <S> It may make no difference but might help with longevity and reliability (e.g. if they are warped). <A> All hydrauluc disc brakesets come pre-bled, so if you're not fussed about the excess hose lengths then fitting hydraulic brakes over mechanical brakes has fewer steps. <S> I mention the excess hydraulic hose because brakes typically ship with 1000mm and 1700 <S> mm long hoses for front and rear brakes. <S> In my experience very few bikes really need hoses this long and if you're not cutting them down to a more suitable length then the excess hose will form large loops out from the handlebars. <S> If you'd like to shorten the hydraulic hoses then you'll need some specialist tools, at the minimum a hydraulic hose cutter and a bleed kit for the specific brakes. <S> This is where fitting hydraulic brakes differs hugely from mechanical brakes. <S> Depending on how well finished your caliper mounts are, it may also be worth having these faced by a local bike shop to ensure the calipers align perfectly with the rotors. <A> Your bike might have braze-on fittings for holding the current cables in place. <S> These won't fit the hydraulic line because the opening will be too small, and the braze-ons won't be wide enough to accept the line through the wire-slot. <S> There's nothing wrong with using cable ties to fasten down the hose/pipe instead, and you can run the new line beside your braze-ons for some support. <S> On the other hand you might wish to grind off the braze-ons for a more streamlined look. <S> Bad idea on carbon and even aluminium <S> I'd not do it. <S> But a steel frame is easy to work on. <S> Just touch up the bare metal after to avoid rust. <S> Internally routed cables suffer the same problem as braze-ons. <S> The entry/exit holes are generally too small, and you have to disconnect the hose anyway to get in them, <S> But you might want something that looks better. <S> Option 1. <S> http://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/clamp_on_cable_guides_-_27723 <S> These are intended for top tubes but may fit your fork. <S> Option 2. <S> Stick-on cable guides <S> There's a bunch of different brands and styles, these are Alloy ones. <S> And these are plastic ones. <S> You'd have to clean the frame really well to ensure a good adhesion, but there's fairly low forces acting on the tube while braking - all the pressure is internalised.
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The old brakes were not expensive, so the rotor won't be the best quality, new rotor would keep everything matching. And you can't generally disconnect the hydraulic line to feed through the braze-on anyway.
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If I change my cassette to a different range do I need to change my chain? I have a Shimano 8 speed 11-34 cassette (one of those "mega range" ones). If I change my cassette to a different one, say an 11-32, will I need to change or otherwise modify my chain? I just got the chain replaced and now it's slipping on the old cassette. I'm not the biggest fan of the mega range, so I wouldn't mind changing it out to something different. <Q> Theoretically, you could shorten your chain to accommodate the smaller (largest gear) cassette. <S> However, I never install a new cassette unless I install a new chain as well. <S> Cassettes and chains tend to "wear" to one another and one can sometimes encounter difficulty if you don't. <S> That "could" be the issue with your new chain. <S> If the old chain was run past <S> it's proper service life and damaged the cassette, no new chain is going to work well with it. <S> Depending <S> However, there are many other issues that could cause slippage. <S> A stiff link in the new chain if it was twisted/damaged during installation would be a prime example. <A> As the smallest cog is the same and the largest cog is smaller, the gear range is a subset of the old one. <S> The old chain length should give you no problems at all. <S> If you were going the other way a longer chain might be needed. <A> As there is only 2 tooth difference on the top end and the same number of teeth on the bottom end, you should not need a new chain or adjustment. <S> There is some room in the derailleur to adjust the length (between 11 teeth and 34 teeth). <S> Your new range of 11-32 is within the 11-34 <S> so there should be no problems. <S> The one thing you would have to make sure is that the chain and cassette are compatible, correct width, size, shape. <S> So if you are using Shimano, your new set should also be Shimano of the same groupset if you want to make sure it will work. <A> Generally <S> Yes you have to change your chain. <S> The only time you might get away without changing chain is if its JUST been replaced. <S> That is, under a hundred km of riding or in the last ~week. <S> Running an elongated chain on a new cassette dramatically increases wear on the cassette. <S> It really depends on how long/far since "it was jut replaced"
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how many miles/hours you put on the new chain, if you put a new cassette on your rig and leave the "new" chain, it could be fine.
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Recommended transmission for a commuting bike I want to get a new transmission group for my bike and I'm quite confused, so I'd really apreciate some help from the community. Here's some context: I own, since last October, a Giant Escape 2 ( https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/escape-2-2016 ) which I use for my daily 22km commuting (11km from home to work and 11km back) plus daily errants and the eventual lay-back ride with my GF or friends. It has a 3x8 Shimano M191-Altus group.My regular route has several elevation changes and a couple of steep climbs along the way. According to Runtastic Road Bike, I have about 74m of elevation up and 50m of elevation down and I have realised that I mainly use the middle cog on the front crankset, going from the 3rd (on full stops and uphill) to the 5th gear, and the large cog of the frontal set when going faster, applying the 6th and 7th gear. I have an average speed of 20Km/h. So, for my question, I'm wondering if I could do better with a 1x11 or 2x10 transmission set, since there's one frontal cog which I've literally never used in the 2500k that I've rode this bike. Or is it me that I'm not using it properly?If you think I should replace my transmission, which one would you recommend? Considering that I don't want to spend any body part on the upgrade =) Thank you very much for taking the time to read my amateurish-bad-english-nonsensical question and a big kudos to those who will reply it! <Q> New you can't do it for less than $200 unless it is off brand (not Shimano or SRAM) <S> Shimano does not offer 1x11 in the lower end groups. <S> It would be like 1/2 the value of your bike. <S> Not using the smallest up front is not a big deal. <S> I would just keep what you have. <S> You can remove the smallest and adjust the range if you want to. <S> Or you could swap to double crank. <S> Not sure if you can still use the same shifter or front derailleur. <S> Not seeing many used 1x11 yet. <S> Maybe look for a used 1x9. <S> I don't think there are any true (narrow wide) 1x8. <A> You own a bike that works fine. <S> As your riding experience grows, you start to notice things that could be better or improved. <S> Save these thoughts up, and when you are ready to buy a bike consider what meets those requirements. <S> I did 3000 km on a scrappy old MTB, but felt it was limiting. <S> So I obtained a terrible road bike, fixed it and put in 200 km while utterly smashing many of my strava PRs. <S> Since my main goals were fitness and speed, adding a road bike made a lot more sense than changing my MTB. <S> And if you did change the current bike, it would be less suitable for the steep climbs and headwinds. <S> Summary: add a decent quality used road bike to the stable. <A> You know the saying "Less is more"? <S> And Yngwie Malmsteen's response "How can that be? <S> More is more!". <S> With 1x11 you can have both at the same time. <S> More seriously, if using a single chainring works for you, there's no real need to change things. <S> It might even save some maintenance. <S> You'll still have the complexity and weight of front derailleur.
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If you have money burning in your pockets or think that a gear upgrade would be nice, 1x11 saves some weight and looks new and shiny for some time. Even though the smallest cog in the front is mostly useless, switching to a double doesn't benefit you much.
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Are my gears setup backwards? I have a trike with Shimano shifters. There are 3 gears in the front and 8 gears in the back. Gears are changed by rotating wheels found on each handlebar. The gear shifters have a window telling me which gear it is set to. When the chain is on the largest-sized gear in the front, the sifter says "3". When it is on the smallest-sized gear, it says "1". But the opposite is true of the back gears. When the chain is on the largest gear in the back, the shifter says "1". And when it is on the smallest gear in the back, it says, "8". Are my gears setup the wrong way? <Q> No, it's set up the right way. <S> (In fact, because of the way the front and rear gear systems work, it's essentially impossible to set them up backwards: you'd have to re-engineer the whole system.) <S> Think about it in terms of how many times the wheels turn for each turn of the pedals. <S> When you change to a smaller-sized cog at the back, moving the chain <S> the same distance causes the wheels to turn a greater number of times. <S> So, in both cases, moving to a higher-numbered gear causes the wheels to rotate more times for each turn of the pedals. <A> So 32 front and 16 rear teeth is 2:1. <S> For each pedal cycle the wheel makes two revolutions. <S> 1 Front teeth divided by rear teeth <A> Both shifters are numbered so that so that higher number gives larger gear ratio. <S> In front it's the larger cog, in the rear smaller.
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When you change to a larger-sized cog at the front, the chain moves farther for each turn of the pedals, so the rear wheel turns more times. The gear ratio is front teeth / rear teeth 1 , which gets bigger with More front teeth, or Fewer rear teeth
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Is 17 miles (27km) each way a lot for a newbie cyclist? I go to the gym on a regular basis and do a fair bit of running. I feel like I'm fit enough to do this. It would be a one-off ride from Wembley to Slough and back so it would be a fair bit of road which could be a problem. <Q> Your fitness from running and the gym should be plenty enough, especially as the route is pretty flat. <S> Bear in mind that it will be tiring, since cycling uses different muscles to running, and the saddle may get a bit uncomfortable if you're not used to it. <S> Make sure you have plenty of water and something like a cereal bar or a banana to eat half-way would be good, too. <S> (You want something that will release energy over time, rather than a big sugar hit.) <S> The thing you want to avoid most is narrow roads with lots of traffic: if cars can overtake you easily, everybody's much happier. <S> And there's lots of public transport available <S> so, if you get to Slough and can't bear the thought of cycling home again, you can always get on a train, though don't try to do that at rush-hour. <A> Man, just do it! <S> There isn't much that can go wrong. <S> If you feel tired, turn around midway. <S> If you end up at a different location than initially planned, so be it; my personal experience is that too much planning destroys much of the fun of riding. <S> I often start thinking about going for an hour ride and end up doing 100km. <S> Or vice versa. <S> As an inexperienced rider you may do 10 mph (16km/h), thus 3 and a half hours of riding time for 34 miles (54km). <S> Have fun! <A> Nope - go for it. <S> Here are two suggested routes from Strava, which were generated at https://www.strava.com/routes/new and then clicking a start and end point, and changing some options. <S> This first one is based on "most popular with cyclists" and runs for 30 km with total elevation change of 204 metres. <S> Another choice is "minimise elevation change" which saves you 5km and 50 metres of vertical ascent, but is a less popular path with cyclists. <S> I see part of it appears to be down the A40 motorway, but there appears to be a cycle path there. <S> Finally if you'd rather make your own way, here's the "heatmap" for the area. <S> You can access this at http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/#13/-0.44289/51.51782/blue/bike <A> Our LBS has a Saturday morning ride for which we often get beginners. <S> Many are no longer young and not particularly fit. <S> They can do 17 miles of flat ride before lunch. <S> I wouldn't worry about the amount of exercise if you have a nice break in the middle. <S> Discomfort after that much riding is more of a worry. <S> Allow enough time, about two hours each way with rest stops. <S> You will probably ride faster than that, but don't push too hard. <A> I typically tell people that any normal healthy novice can get on a bicycle and do 10 miles per hour without difficulty, so if you can walk for two hours stop for lunch and walk back, then you can do this with less work. <S> Pack water, a cellphone and lunch money. <S> If things go wrong you can put the bike in the boot of a cab. <A> If you were a little older I'd say work up to it over a month or so, doing progressively longer rides to give your body time to adjust and tell you how it's doing, but at 17 you can recover from almost anything. <S> Have a great time. <S> I can't tell how much you've ridden already, but maybe <S> (if you're not tubeless) practice changing a flat in the field to make sure you have everything with you that you need. <A> It's do-able. <S> We have some guests, a couple in their 20s or 30s, who both know how to cycle but aren't accustomed to it. <S> They were able to go somewhere and back, 25 km each way. <S> Caveat: <S> It took them several hours; partly because they stopped when they got there. <S> But also because they cycle relatively slowly. <S> They borrowed my bikes which are "hybrids" of reasonable quality (several hundred euros with good tires) <S> They went along a semi-paved river tow-path which is closed to vehicle traffic, so no worries about that. <S> When they went again some weeks later, they found it easier. <S> It seems to me too that any route is easier the second time you do it. <A> We did distances like that several times a year when I was 12 years old. <S> So just drive off, without any special preparation, I am sure you will find something to drink and eat near to your route as soon as you want some... <A> I drove that as a daily commute for a year. <S> Was slightly hard the first week, after that easy enough.
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Riding in traffic can be mentally tiring when you're not used to it so definitely consider a route using quieter roads and cycle paths, even if that adds a few miles. If you keep a normal relaxed pace you should be able to do the entire distance 2x27 in about three to four hours As a one-off, that should be completely doable. So just make sure you don't start in the evening. Take a mobile phone with you in case something happens, look up the weather forecast, take something to eat and drink with you (or some money to buy some). The main thing is to have fun so you keep riding. Ride a mile from the house then pretend you have a flat, then change or patch the tube right there by the side of the road.
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Helmet strap loosens as I ride then the day after becomes too tight Well, the title sums it up. It's a cheap (~50 EUR) KTM helmet. This is reproducible, is happens on every ride: if I adjust it to fit well at the beginning of the ride, it's loose after a while. If I tighten it during the ride then it is way too tight at the start of the next ride. <Q> Two One hypotheses: <S> Nylon does in fact absorb water and stretch when it gets wet, so this is the more likely cause. <S> 2. <S> Exertion causes vasodilation. <S> If you've had the sensation of your necktie getting tighter under stress, this is the cause. <S> Your body is pumping more blood to your head and the veins are expanding. <A> Seriously, hasn't every cyclist experienced this? <S> Every single helmet I have ever worn in the last 30 years does this. <S> The nylon straps stretch when wet and shrink when dry. <S> I keep hoping some engineer will fix this and replace the chinstrap material with something that doesn't stretch. <S> Kevlar straps would be a lot more expensive but wouldn't have this problem. <S> Alternately, surrounding the strap with a wicking material to keep it from getting so wet would also help. <S> Bottom line - there is nothing wrong with your helmet that isn't wrong with every bicycle helmet ever made. <S> I adjust by tightening the straps mid ride and then loosening them before the next ride because they tighten up so much while drying out. <A> The retightening is the surprising part. <S> I propose a test. <S> Adjust the helmet, then ride without using it for long enough that it good notice. <S> Wear a spare ideally, but rollers or conditions where you'd be happy without a helmet are other options. <S> Try the helmet for size when you get back. <S> If the fit has changed with the helmet at home, it's your head. <S> Otherwise it's the helmet. <S> A helmet that fits quite precisely could reseat while riding,and not necessarily in predictable ways given sweat and vibration. <S> Another test would be to ride gently on a cool day to avoid sweating - does the adjustment fail then? <S> That suggests vibration (on one of mine <S> there's vertical adjustment in a plastic band at the back of my head; if I put it on with that too high and it drops, the helmet loosens.
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Different helmets have different strap arrangements even if the material is the same, so you may find you're just unlucky with yours. The straps are getting wet with sweat and loosening, then constricting again when they dry.
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Riding my bike on empty pavement when the road is busy UK I often find myself in the situation that I'm riding my bike on the road, holding up several cars whom I can tell are getting impatient (there are oncoming cars so its hard to overtake safely). A lot of the time the pavement is completely empty. Would I be wrong to then switch to the pavement in order to (1) allow the cars to pass (2) reduce the risk of impatient drivers carelessly overtaking me? Where does the law stand on this? Moreover if it is allowed, does the pavement have to be completely empty? Edit: Clarification - I'm more asking what more experienced bike riders do in this situation, rather than the exact legislation. If you've had any encounters with the police with such a situation, then that would be even more helpful. <Q> It is illegal to ride a bicycle on pavement in UK by the law. <S> Penalty is £50. <S> But it makes common sense and cops generally put a blind eye as long as you are not doing anything dangerous. <S> But at the end of the day it will depend on individual officer opinion. <A> When it happened to me and I could not ride elsewhere, I preferred first to acknowledge the waiting drivers I noticed their presence (by raising my hand, so that they don't get into the mood of " this guy is not giving a dam about me ") and then taking the first chance to stop on the side and let the queue proceed. <S> I did this even when going downhill on a mountain road <S> and I was travelling around the speed limit of 50 km/h and had trucks and cars behind me. <A> When the roads are that busy, riding wide (so cars can't squeeze past) helps a lot. <S> Frequent shoulder checks, even if you have a mirror, are a good idea. <S> Then when there's a big gap in the oncoming traffic you can tuck in, sit up straighter and slow down - subject to potholes of course, they're another reason to not ride too close to the curb if there are too many cars around for you to pull out round the bad bits. <A> There are roads I call "meat mincers" - for obvious reasons. <S> But when travelling, I prefer to go a few blocks either side of the congested roads, and the side streets are comparatively free of vehicles. <S> There are bike paths, and parks and gardens, canals, rivers, and industrial estates etc., and depending upon the time of day etc., can be virtually vacant.... <S> This road from Footscray to Newport is completely vacant at 7am Google Earth: 37°50'01.11" S 144°53'41.29 <S> " E Use your brains, and GO searching for better routes, on maps, and experience etc... <S> Find the parallel routes and use them. <S> After all, you only die once.
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Aside from it being illegal, when the roads are busy is the last time you want to be going up and down badly dropped curbs and crossing side roads (not always where you would like to from the point of view of visibility). It is covered by 1835 Highways Act and Highway Code Rule 64: "You MUST not cycle on a pavement". In your case you can consider using the pavement strictly for the time necessary for the waiting cars to take your over.
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Front fender rubbing on tire On a 16" folding bike, the front fender slider tends to release over time and increase the distance between the tire and the fender. This is a problem because, as the fender angle changes, the end of the fender (which terminates before the brake) rubs against the tire. I could get new sliders and stays (they're inexpensive plastic parts) but this has been a problem with this bike since it was new and same problem will recur fairly quickly. How can I solve this problem? The bike: Front fender when it's tight and all is well: Front fender when it loosens and rubs against the top of the tire: The fender end: <Q> Ideally, the sliders should not be under any tension or compression - they just should keep the fender from some side to side and a little of fore and aft movement. <S> If you have a metal fender: I would bend the fender so that it's closer to the wheel even when under no tension: <S> Take off the sliders <S> Push the rear of the fender against the wheel with enough pressure that you feel the metal bending Release and repeat until the fender springs back to about the position you want it to stay in. <S> If it keeps springing back even though you've pushed it against the wheel, you might need to take the wheel off to get some additional space to push Once the fender is about where you want it, then (put the wheel back on and) <S> the sliders back on Plastic fenders: If the fender is made of plastic or wood, then there is a metal L-bracket underneath the brake calipers bolt that holds the fender on. <S> This bracket needs to be bent just a tad so that the fender is at a better angle viz a viz the wheel. <S> It's easier to bend this with the fender removed as you can crack a plastic or wood fender. <S> Finishing Touches: After you've done all that, you can put some polyurethane or hot glue on the sliders to help them grip a bit more. <S> I like to use glues that I can easily take off again. <S> One brand I like is ShoeGoo. <S> It is incredibly tough and tacky but you can also get it off hard plastics and metals if you need to readjust the fenders again. <A> If the fender is sliding in the mount, I suggest hot glue. <S> You can get it in black online if you're worried about it matching. <S> Just a little adds friction, or you can apply a bead along a joint when everything is set up just right. <S> It sticks quite well to most plastics but can be removed if required, and I've found it very useful for plastic bike bits, for adding grip and locking down rattling parts. <A> Thread or knurl the stays <S> so there's more friction with the black plastic clamps. <S> If that's not enough, do you ever remove the fenders/mudguards? <S> Two small metal jubilee clips should provide more compression around the stays. <S> An extreme solution would be to apply threadlocker or superglue inside the clamp. <S> You seem to have enough room between the mudguard and the tyre. <S> What if you bent the stays upward to 90degrees, so the plastic clamps rotated on their screws and pointed almost straight down? <S> The added damping might help, and will help protect the drivechain and BB. <S> Last resort is to replace the two sliders and clamps with a single straightened coathanger. <S> This would be a two-leg U shape such that the stay passes around the outside of the guard, with a retaining saddle clamp, and then back to the fork on both sides. <S> That way it can't possibly slip back. <S> In fact I'd probably just do this and not bother with the other solutions.
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The problem is that the metal fender (or fender bracket) has some spring in it and wants to spring back placing constant tension on the plastic retaining bits that hold the slider. Another option is that guard extension looks like rigid plastic - Some bikes have a 100-150mm (4-6 inch) piece of leather as a mudflap right at the bottom.
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Could a road bike be used for cyclocross? So i have a cyclocross bike, but most of my friends have road bikes. I am interested if people think that a road bike could be used to race cyclocross. I'm thinking that with a pair of nobbly tires it might work. EDIT: This is a just thought experiment. I have a CX bike which i use for road in the summer and cross in the winter. <Q> Depends on your road bike, but for the most part no. <S> Reasons against Many road bikes are limited to tire width of 25 or 28mm. <S> Because cycle cross is off-road <S> you need to find tires with knobbies. <S> This really isn't possible for such small tire sizes as most knobby tires available start at around 32mm or large. <S> Even if you could find knobby tires this small, The tight tolerance between the tire and the brake caliper will mean any mud would clog and slow the wheel from moving. <S> Finally, most rode bikes have a much lower bottom bracket and twitcher handling. <S> The lower bottom bracket will mean a lot a pedal strikes especially on off camber sections and <S> the faster steering will make this type of road bikes harder to hold a line in rough sections. <S> Cyclocross bikes also tend to have lower gearing, a much slacker front geometry and longer wheel base so that the bike hold the line better. <S> The higher BB not only reduces pedal strikes but also makes it easier to initiate change in directions by shifting weight, despite the slower steering. <S> Reasons for Some road bikes slacker geometries and more tire clearance (e.g.,older, endurance and adventure road). <S> I had one steel bike that could clear 35 mm tires, this one could have been used on dry courses. <S> The bottom bracket will still be too low and the handling likely a little too twitchy, but these would be much more suitable than what most manufacturers currently sell as race road bikes at the moment. <S> Note that many cyclocross series do not follow UCI regulations and are happy to let you race whatever bike you bring. <A> I am unsure of the equipment provisions that the UCI puts on cyclocross racing, though with that not being considered it is possible <S> yes. <S> A lot of people have converted older steel frames and road bikes into cyclocross bikes with great success. <S> One thing to consider though is that the newer cyclocross frames generally have wider clearance for larger knobby tires than road specific frames have. <S> So you may run into some clearance issues depending on how large of tire you would like to run. <S> For it to be used for cyclocross racing depends on how loosely you are using that term and whether or not it fits in with the UCI's rules and regulations. <S> If you do intend to use it in UCI sanctioned events <S> the rules and regulations for frames and forks can be found here <S> Other rules regarding cyclocross racing can be found here <A> There are several differences between a CX bike and a roadbike. <S> Most CX frames use either cantilever or disc brakes. <S> Cyclocross routes can be muddy. <S> The mud tends to collect at the crown of the fork if a road style brake is used. <S> Because the terrain of a cyclocross course can be varied and unpaved the gearing lends itself somewhere between a traditional mountain-bike crankset (42-32-22) and a traditional road compact- <S> double (50-34), cyclocross is typically (46-36). <S> The frame is generally a little more robust to deal with the uneven terrain. <S> The frame design tends to be an open triangle to facilitate carrying on the shoulder to clear larger obstacles. <S> So in essence you could use a road bike. <S> but there is the risk of damage, some of which could be mediated by dismounting and shouldering the bike. <A> Most cyclocross races have tiers or classes. <S> There's often an A grade and a B grade, right down to the Tyro or Noob class where the equipment requirements are minimal - in the order of "if you have a 2 wheel bike with working brakes, no obvious dangers, and a helmet you're good to ride in the beginner's grade" <S> For time reasons, sometimes the grades are run on the course together, so C grade and Newbies might mix it up, leaving the course nicely chewed up for the higher grade riders. <S> Locally there was a guy riding a raleigh 20 and <S> the only difference was he had fitted knobbly tyres and removed the fenders for clearance. <S> He didn't win but was not last, and he beat out nicer bikes too. <S> You can often even ride a mountain bike in a tyro-class CX races - The only thing often excluded is bar-ends. <S> If you're just trying out CX then go ahead and ride what you got. <S> If you find that you like the sport then consider a better bike.
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The geometry on cyclocross bikes is also a tad bit different than that of a road bike, but would likely not be a game changer for basic use. Tire clearance, your current frame may not have enough clearance between the rear stays to allow a larger tire with knobbies.
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Can I use a bike for commuting 10km everyday at Jönköping (Sweden)? I'm a French student going to Sweden for one year and I would like to know if I could use a bike to go to school even in winter for less than 150€ (or 1500 SEK). Is it possible without having a bad time when riding and or will I fall every five seconds due to icy roads? If it's possible I would like to know which type of bike should I use and if I have to add accessories like studded tires or tire chains. Here's an average weather of the city: https://weatherspark.com/y/78217/Average-Weather-in-J%C3%B6nk%C3%B6ping-Sweden And some details about my route: Start altitude: 102 metresEnd altitude: 111 metresMaximum altitude: 129 metresMinimum altitude: 93 metresDistance: 5.1 kmTotal ascent: 54 metresTotal descent: 45 metresMaximum gradient ascending: 5% at 1.7 kmMaximum gradient descending: 6% at 0.6 km <Q> As long as the bike paths and roads you'll be traveling along are reasonably well cleared of deep snow, this would be no big issue. <S> You can order basic Schwalbe Winter studded tires cheaply (around 40euro a pair) from Bike24. <S> You should probably be able to find a basic used bike for 110 euro. <A> If you do a google image search of "sweden january bicycling" you do get images of people bicycling even in the middle of winter. <S> The roads are icy and snowy. <S> A couple of thoughts: <S> Tricycles are more stable than bicycles <S> Studded tires are a must for icy roads, but not if they are well salted. <S> You could wait to get them until it's clear to you that you need them. <S> A good hat and gloves will be a must. <S> Helmets are optional. <S> If you're going to fall, fall into a snow drift. <S> Children are optional <A> You could certainly commute most of the year. <S> Look for a used single speed. <S> Gears is OK but single speed is less maintenance and less cost. <S> Look for something that will take 32mm tires and prefer 35mm. <S> It could even be a mtn bike <S> but you don't need (or want) suspension. <S> That budget limits your options. <S> At 300€ you get more options. <S> Used you will get most of that back if you take care of the bike. <S> A low quality bike may be cheaper up front but cost you more on the long run. <S> You only need it to last a year but still not BSO (bicycle shaped object). <S> A second set of studded tires is a pain to swap out <S> and you don't have budget for a second set of wheels. <S> Hopefully you have bike paths as road in snow and ice <S> is dangerous. <S> Get a good lock!
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Studded tires aren't strictly necessary for winter riding, but they do provide peace of mind on days with a freeze-thaw cycle. Your bike is so cheap ($150) that it doesn't matter what it's made of.
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Bike fitting for sore hands, Peugeot ~85 used as commuter I'm having problems with my Peugeot from ~85. I get sore hands quite fast when I ride it and it really feels like the pressure on my hands are too much (compared to when I ride other bikes with flat bars). This is my first bike with dropped bars (but I have been riding a lot on flat bar bikes before). There are a million questions like. Are the frame too big? Or are there any other signs? What am I doing wrong? And how do I know :) The frame is 60cm and I'm 187cm. Thanks in advance and have a fantastic weekend! <Q> A few thoughts/suggestions: Try wearing cycling gloves with some gel padding (perhaps you normally do but just were notfor the photo) <S> - I find that if the saddle tilts down towards the front, then you end up sort of sliding forward and to stop that, you put more weight on your hands. <S> Older style brakes are not well shaped for riding "on the hoods" as you demonstrate in the photo. <S> If you look at modern Shimano, SRAM or Campag brakes (especially the high-end ones) you'll see that they present a wide and flat surface to rest your hands on when in that position. <S> Older style brakes have a round (cross section) and often U shaped (long section) brake hood. <S> I have that on my commuter <S> and I agree it means for sore hands quite quickly if the road surface is rough. <S> Good core strength will help. <S> Can you ride with your hands off the bars, but right next to them? <S> I.e. Still bent forward, but without being able to rest your hands on the bars? <S> Actually that's probably too tough a test, and most cyclists who aren't racers can't do it. <S> Compare the drop from seat to bars between your flat-bar bike and the Peugeot. <S> If the drop is greater on the Peugeot (i.e. the bars are further below the seat than they are on the other bike(s)) then it may just take some time to get used to it. <S> Good luck <S> - that's a great looking bike! <A> Some more suggestions: raise the handlebars with a high-rise stem (might require new cables) add interrupter brake levers so you can spend more time with hands on cross bar <S> you can simply add another layer of bar tape - this would be easier than re taping with gel pads. <S> The easiest thing to try is to throw another layer of tape on there. <S> Of course most of this detracts from the classic looks of your bike. <A> I have sold this bike and bought another one <S> but it turned out to be exactly the same problem (even though the measurements were different).
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But you get the idea: if you can support your weight with your core/back muscles, then you wont get such sore hands. Check that your saddle is level I have now tried flared drop bars and it seems to work much better for my wrists.
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Is this a real vintage Bianchi Strada? I'm contemplating whether or not to buy a Bianchi vintage mixte bike. I was told that it's a 1986 Bianch Strada but I have never seen a serial number like this: 51027563 (all numbers no letters). Photos are attached below. If someone knowledgeable about Bianchi bikes could answer these questions it'd be of tremendous help! Is this bike a 1986 Bianchi Strada? Given this 8-digit serial number is this a real Bianchi bike (and not a knockoff)? <Q> Warning: this answer is based on rumours, speculation and hearsay. <S> Serial numbers: <S> I don't think the Good Lord Himself could make sense of Bianchi serial numbers, so don't put too much weight on that as anything is possible. <S> Thankfully, there is a fairly persistent rumour that Bianchi subcontracted cheap frames from Nishiki due to production problems while they were moving production from Japan to Taiwan in the mid 80s. <S> If true, this could be one of those bikes. <S> If this is the case, it's a fun bit of bike history curiosa. <S> As others have noted, the suicide levers on an otherwise mid-range equipped bike says it's probably a US-specific model <A> @Fossegrimen is right that the serial numbers are a mess and can't be relied upon. <A> Thank You for the posting. <S> I just purchased a Bianchi Mixte with very similar component group. <S> These are my differences.1) <S> Chrome plated forks2) <S> Forged Bianchi drop outs with frame adjusters3) <S> Brazed on down tube shifters4) <S> Dia Compe brakes with similar suicide brakes, gold embellishments5) <S> ITM quill stem made in Italy6) <S> Campagnolo or Gimpimmi hubs, with oil ports like Grand Sport <S> (previous Gen. N. Record)7) <S> Ambrosia rims8) <S> The seat tube is 26.2mm, the old Campagnolo N. Record n Grand Sport, which frustrated many trying to restore or upgrade old Italian bikes from 1970's n early 1980's. <S> Will try to post pictures for those interested. <S> This seems to be the 1/2 way point when Bianchi were still made in Italy with mix of Italian and JIS parts.
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I got confirmation from some Bianchi enthusiasts at BikeForums.net that this is indeed a genuine 1986 Bianchi Strada Mixte with pretty much all original parts. Lugs and frame design/welds looks somewhat odd for Bianchi, in fact without the decals I would have guessed Nishiki.
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Can I use an RC motor to make my bike electric? I would like to make my ebike to have the minimal look, so adding big hubs or mid drive motors isn't really an option since it also costs more. I found this Keda brushless outrunner 2000w 190KV motor on hobbyking and wondered if it can move my bicycle? It's 2000w so it should easily move it yes? Or do RC motors work differently, will it overheat? Do I have to use zippy battery packs or can I build my own 10s battery? And finally, if it can't move me on its own could I make it pedassist? Here's the link https://hobbyking.com/en_us/kd-53-30-high-voltage-brushless-outrunner-190kv.html Thanks. <Q> Its designed to attach the prop of a model aircraft directly, i.e its designed to drive a fan that cools it. <S> It has little (or none) weather protect, and would be destroyed on a bike in months. <S> Another concern I would have with that motor is the shaft size- its one thing to deliver 2000W to a prop, but to connecting it to a mechanical drive train that can load it with sudden changes in forces is likely to destroy it, you would need to get very creative with shock isolation from the drive line. <S> As far as costs, I doubt the basic motor part of the bike kit costs all that much more, after all, its only a few coils, a shaft and bearings. <S> The very best current commercial mountain bikes come, despite a lot of frame design and engineering, with a a huge, ugly and heavy mid drive motor. <S> With all the R&D, and money to be made creating the perfect E-Bike, do you honestly think if the big boys could add a 2000W motor weighing 670gram and the size of a bottom bracket, they would not have done it already? <A> The important number is not power, but torque. <S> The linked page doesn't say it, but that 2000W is probably achieved at a huge speed (thousands of rpm). <S> To get enough torque to drive the bike (and to step down the speed to usable levels, i.e. in the region of 50 rpm), you'll need a reduction gearbox. <S> Finally, regulations for ebikes usually specify a max. <S> power of 250 W and a cutout speed of 25 km/h <S> , so your motor would be illegal/would require registering your bike as a motorbike (depending on country. <S> In the Netherlands, there's a moped category for 350W/45 km <S> /h max, anything above that is a motorcycle). <A> These RC motors are made to be used on much smaller and lighter objects than a bike+human combo. <S> So even if it delivers 2k W, it will most likely just surge and either overheat, break its inner components, or at worst explode. <S> Regarding the battery, I would highly suggest you not to go with a custom made one for this kind of setup. <S> You don't want an overheating battery coupled to an overheating motor just under the seat. <S> Plus 10S lipos aren't that expensive, I wouldn't cheap out on this. <S> What would also be hard to figure out is power management. <S> With this kind of motor you would need to throw it to full throw to expect the smallest assistance, which is far from being efficient. <S> Running that way will get your batteries dry in no more than an hour (and I'm being generous) for an at best tiny assistance. <S> Worst case you won't feel any difference with or without the engine. <S> And using it as a pedassist would actually be letting the motor run freely for not effective improvement. <S> Considering how tiny the thing is and the power your lower body can develop, you'll easily outrun the motor even with the tiniest effort. <S> Not only you'll outrun it <S> but you'll destroy it also. <S> It is design to deliver power but not to resist to any received force. <S> Commercial E-bikes look the way they do because at this point, that's what we need to have an efficient setup. <S> To get to these levels of efficiency you'd need some massive engineering and incredible costs (for reference, check out this doc from a french tv). <S> This isn't really doable for us mortals... <A> This is a supplementary answer. <S> You're concerned about your conversion screaming ebike. <S> I'd like to challenge this premise. <S> Some of the new geared hub motors are small enough to hide behind rear disc brakes and/or look like an IGH hub and are hardly noticeable. <S> You can then hide the controller in a seat bag and hide the battery in a water bottle for the total stealth look. <A> I did this. <S> It is not impossible and very fun, some electronics skills required. <S> Derate the motor <S> : if the maker says "10Kw @ 100V" you know that the max admitted Amperes are 100. <S> Cut that down to 40-50. <S> Use a sensored Drive: <S> RC motors` rotors position is determined mainly by reading back-emf. <S> That doesnt work fine when you need to start the motor with a heavy load on it. <S> That is the key not to burn it. <S> Have fun! <A>
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You could use one but to avoid damaging the motor you would be better off using a one way bearing on the shaft so if there's any sudden stopping there wouldn't be any load on the shaft and motor Another issue you'll have with such a motor is that it's not waterproof so first water encounter and the thing is fried. As far as battery packs, with the right controller you can roll your own easliy enough. Use (or build as I did) a controller with CURRENT LIMITING.
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What are the best ways to start gravel biking for a complete novice (in the Bay Area)? I recently got a Cannondale Slate and because I’m a complete novice, I’m a little hesitant in starting to ride on trails alone. I’m mostly wondering if I’d have to perform many jumps (which I don’t know how to perform) on the trail. Any advice on trails or best practices would be highly appreciated. <Q> Welcome to the Bay Area! <S> First, you should become a member of Bike East Bay - they provide advocacy as well as produce bike trail maps for the east bay. <S> Being a member gets you a discount at most east bay bike stores. <S> Second, the gravel trails around here are all fairly gentle in terms of terrain except for some steep hills. <S> You could do them all with a hybrid if you're fit enough. <S> So my advice would be to just find some trails - either along the coastline where it's flat - or in the hills where you get the view -- and just do it . <S> If things get sketchy just take it slow. <S> There are group rides scheduled through Bike East Bay, REI, and other organizations. <S> Check through them or places like Meetup. <S> PS: You can find some very difficult, double black diamond trails for mountain biking in the east bay <S> but you'd really have to go out of your way to look for them. <S> Marked trails on the bike trail maps (and on google maps) are all beginner level. <A> Gravel riding does not have to involve getting over 'technical' obstacles on the bike, although even on straightforward trails you may find you have to carry the bike over obstacles such as mud, steps or stream crossings. <S> It's good to ride with others to get to know trails and techniques and have some technical backup, plus it's just good to ride with friends; but you tend to meet people to ride with and make friends on the trail. <S> Organized group rides are a great way to get started. <S> To get started on you own, research trails near you and select something that suits you in terms of surface, length, and amount and difficultly of climbing and descending. <S> If in doubt start on the easy stuff and work your way up. <S> When going out on a ride, on your own or with a group: <S> Check weather and dress appropriately, including applying sunscreen. <S> For longer rides, make sure you have plenty of daylight to complete the ride. <S> Take a few essential tools. <S> For short rides near civilization: a multi-tool and a puncture repair kit or spare tube are fine. <S> Obviously you'll want to know how to repair a puncture and make at least basic adjustment to your bike. <S> The tire's pressure range is written on its sidewall, or consult your bike's owners manual or tire manufactures website. <S> Bring sufficient water (or know where to top up), energy bars or snacks. <S> Bring a (charged) mobile phone for navigation or calling for assistance in case of bike failure or injury. <S> Bring a backup paper map folded in a sandwich bag so it does not get wet from rain or sweat. <S> (Putting you phone in a bag protects it from moisture too.) <S> Highlight your route or add hand written annotations if you want. <A> Nice bike. <S> Just venture out. <S> You can walk any section you are not comfortable with. <S> I jump <S> / hop on my mtn bike <S> but there are only a few spots I jump my cyclocross. <S> Off (down) camber drop is scary <S> so just walk them <S> - I am a pretty good rider <S> and I walk them as I want to keep my teeth.
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If you research trails online they often have maps you can print, or print from Google Maps with the bicycling option turned on. Make sure your tires are inflated to an appropriate pressure for the surface you are riding on (higher for paved, lower for gravel or loose). The best way to learn is to just ride!
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Shimano ultegra 11-28 to 12-32 options? I have a Shimano Ultegra RD-6700 rear derailleur with a 10 speed Shimano 105 5700 11-28 cassette and Shimano R565, 50/34 (compact) up front. I would really like a larger gear for climbing. Can I go to a cassette with a larger than 28t that would not require a new derailleur? I see that in Shimano 105 5700 cassette series only goes up to 11-28, but the Ultegra 6700 10 speed goes to 12-30. Is there another cassette that I could use that goes to -32t? How can I tell if I have the RD-6700-SS (capacity 33t) or the RD-6700-GS that has the 39t capacity? It only has "Shimano RD-6700 Japan VIA" stamped on the back. It's the one that came with my 2013 Trek Madone 4.5. I assume that I have to stick with a 10 speed cassette in any case. Are there any options beside the Ultegra 6700 12-30 that would fit? Any advice is greatly appreciated! EDIT: I measured the distance between the centers of the jockey wheels, and its about 6cm, so it looks like I do have the short version. Is it possible to go from a 10 speed to an 11 speed cassette, like the Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-32, without changing the shifter? I realize that I would have to change the rear D to something like the Shimano Ultegra 6800 GS, which says it can handle up to an 11-32. I didn't see any options for changing the the front chainrings, it seems like the 50/34 compact is the only one that fits this bike. <Q> To use older 10-speed Shimano shifters such as Ultegra 6700 with cassettes larger than 28t, you need to use a 9-speed MTB derailleur. <S> You'll be able to handle cassettes up to the largest specified for the MTB derailleur (and likely a bit larger). <S> Shifting won't be as good as a full Ultegra 6700 drive train, but it will work. <A> Have a look at the spec sheet for the RD-6700. <S> Instead you might consider a Tiagra RD-4700-SS which can fit up to a 34 tooth sprocket. <A> There is a very handy gizmo that you can use with road derailleurs to increase the size of cog you can use in the back. <S> Wolf Components Road Link <S> I use it on one of my bikes to have a 11-32 rear cassette. <S> The cassette spacing on Shimano 10spd is the same between road and mtb, so you should be able to just replace your current cassette with an MTB one. <S> You will still be within the safe range of the capability of your rear derailleur. <S> Long cage Road derailleurs generally have 39t capacity, so 16+ 21 = 37. <S> So you could even go to an 11/34 MTB cassette. <S> You can safely go beyond the capacity of the derailleur if you avoid small/small gear usage, However, that's hard to do with a compact double up front. <S> Another solution that I think you might prefer is to switch to a smaller crankset up front. <S> For most people 46/30 and 11/28 in the back makes a really good setup. <S> Unfortunately, 46/30 cranks are not the easiest thing to obtain, but that is changing with the popularity of "Gravel" bicycle components. <S> FSA makes a nice 46/30 "adventure" crankset and you can get those chainrings with MTB cranksets like the Shimano 10spd XT double. <A> You could look at SRAM cassettes (SRAM and Shimano components are compatible) for more options. <S> The SRAM PG-1070 has a 12-32 version. <S> You'll probably need to change the derailleur if the total tooth change is more than your current one can handle - and you can use 10 or 11 speed. <S> The 10 speed derailleurs have slightly chunkier jockey wheels than the 11 speed, but I've used a 10 speed derailleur with an 11 speed chain without any issues and an 11 speed derailleur will handle a 10 speed chain with ease. <S> The gear indexing is controlled by the lever, not the derailleur. <S> So if you fit an 11 speed cassette and have a 10 speed gear lever, you will only get 10 positions - which won't quite line up with the cogs on the cassette. <S> Unfortunately replacement brake/gear levers aren't cheap.
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Also note that you can use a mountain bike cassette if you want big sprockets (and the derailleur can handle it). In the table in the table in the centre it says that that largest sprocket for the RD-6700-GS is 28 tooth - so I don't think the RD-6700-GS will help you.
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Changing wheel size on Jamis Aurora Elite to 26"? Jamis Aurora Elite comes with disk brakes on 700c wheels. I am wondering is it possible to put 26 inch wheels on? Since it has disk brakes, I can't see any issues with fitting the brakes. Only problem might be the ground clearance to the pedals. The 26 inch wheels are good for touring with load, 700c wheels ideal for daily commute. I am looking for a bike which will fit both needs. <Q> What you don't want to do under all circumstances is make large enough changes to the outside diameter of the inflated tire that pedal/crank clearance with the ground becomes an issue. <S> Geometry will suffer too, but as a rule of thumb, dealbreaking ground clearance problems will arise first. <S> (It's my rule of thumb at least, having observed various wheel conversions where it seems fine at first <S> and then you learn you get pedal strike in turns). <S> Generally speaking, if the brakes are a non-issue or a solved issue, i.e. a disk brake or switching to a different reach of rim brake, you can do whatever you want with swapping wheel sizes as long as the tire OD stays about the same while avoiding frame clearance issues with the tire. <S> Lots of things about the bike and its ride qualities will change, but it will generally be rideable and functional. <S> Note how 27.5+ bikes interchange with 29x2.3-2.4ish wheels, many people convert 700x23ish road bikes to 650b <S> , downhillers running extra fat 24s in place of 26s, trials bikes with 19"x2.5" subbed in in back, etc. <S> All the same principle. <S> There might be a better resource, but the lazy way of comparing tire ODs across different wheel and tire sizes is a computer circumference chart and dividing by pi. <S> Tire deflection of course throws it all off a little, but meh. <S> In the case of a touring bike and trying to go from 700 to 26" (559), you'll usually find that you won't have enough fork/chainstay/seatstay clearance for the width of tires that get you into the right ballpark. <S> There are exceptions, particularly with forks and seatstays because they're less inherently constrained in this way, but chainstays will usually be a pretty major limiting factor in back. <S> Applying your idea with 27.5"/650B wheels is more likely to work out. <A> If the drive train is not modified the gearing will be altered. <S> More importantly the the steering geometry will be changed and crank clearance reduced potentially making the bike unsafe to ride. <S> You should be able to find a 700c touring bike that has sufficiently strong 700c wheels. <S> I note that Surly's Long Haul Trucker is available in both 700c and 26" wheel sizes. <S> Or perhaps you can compromise with a 27.5" wheel size bike. <A> The strength of a wheel has comparatively little to do with its radius, and a lot more to do with the quality of the wheel building, and the number of spokes, and the design of the rim. <S> If a frame is designed for a 700c wheel then fitting smaller rims will change the handling, and will 700c is 622mm in diameter, and 26" is 559mm, so you're dropping by 31mm overall. <S> However your 26" wheel may have larger tyres to offset this decrease. <S> As a test , find/borrow a couple of 26" wheels and fit them to your bike. <S> Even if the drive train doesn't mate up and the brakes don't fit, <S> just quietly scooter-about in a safe space. <S> You should be able to "glide" and coast, and feel how the steering is different. <S> Do report back on your findings. <S> Don't take this test rig on the road unless the brakes work. <S> I expect that the decrease in trail will make the steering very floppy, and it will want to turn a lot easier. <S> Based on this test, make your own decision.
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You are correct that smaller wheels can be fitted on a disc brake equipped bike, however, bikes are designed for a particular wheel size and changing that size can cause lots of problems.
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Looking for solutions to shorten warm up time I'm a relatively fit 30 years old road cyclist and I've noticed that I need a lot of time to warm up. When I ride with some club mates, I am typically much slower than most of the other riders in the first 20 miles. However, if I start slowly after about 20-30 miles my legs feel good and I can easily keep up with the faster riders. When I try to push hard from the start, my legs would start hurting so badly and my overall performance would drop. I should also add that I typically don't do any warm up off-the-saddle. My question is the following: is there any particular training to do to improve my performance for shorter rides, without needing 30 miles to warm up? <Q> Simplest solution would be to ride to the start of the ride, with a detour if you live <S> /work too close to the start of the ride. <A> When doing so, don't ignore any aches and pains, rest them or get them seen to as you see fit. <S> With a ride to the start that's too short to be a warmup on its own <S> you could try adding some dynamic stretching during the hanging around stage to keep on warming up. <S> Especially if it's something specific, a sports physio is well worth consulting. <S> You may actually need to help (strengthen or warm up) your supporting muscles more than the main engines, or have an old injury troubling you. <S> Think about whether there's a particular part that feels worse, next time you're riding like this, and seek advice if so. <S> 30 miles seems like a lot <S> so it's well worth looking for a solution. <A> I am a 32 year old cyclist and also find I need time to warm up to have 'more effective' legs. <S> The best shortcut I've found is caffeine. <S> I consume a sports gel with caffeine (~30mg) 15 or so minutes before the ride. <S> Specifically on what type of training to do perhaps 'high cadence' training will be useful as if you are better adapted to high cadence in training then you may be able to go faster in the first 30 miles using a higher cadence and lower gear without 'hurting' the legs. <S> I expect Chris H considers Glutes, hamstrings and calves as supporting muscles rather than main engine quadriceps. <A> I cheat - I warm up with a hot shower on waking, then get straight into my riding clothes (leg warmers+pants, a modern shirt and then a riding top and road shoes), and then put a warm jersey on over that. <S> , so the warmth stays in the muscles and its very much easier to get into it. <S> If I arrive at the meeting point too early, its all wasted cos <S> I cool down while waiting. <S> If its cold, I'll aim to get there bare minutes before leaving time <S> so I don't have time to chill and freeze up. <S> Standing about is bad, so slowly orbit the waiting area, practice trackstands or backpedal, or even do laps of the shortest block (but let someone know so they don't forget you.) <S> Edit: I'm treating your question as a warmup, meaning preparing to ride fast, which means getting the muscles physically warmed up by action and by external heat. <S> Then to keep them warm by not standing about. <S> If your question means something else, please clarify.
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If you can't ride to the start, a few miles and some stretching when you get there might be the solution. Eat a quick muesli+hot coffee breakfast and then get on bike, drop temporary warm jersey and ride As you've noted this is a very personal variable so you'll need to experiment.
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Rear Tyre torn at rim - what was the cause? I had a blowout the other day. On investigation, it was a C-shaped cut in the tube. It patched okay and on reinstalling I found this culprit : The tyre is not new but its not old either - plenty of tread left. I've seen very old / weathered tyres where the rubber has deteriorated and the bead has separated but the cords remain. However this has torn about 20mm worth of cords. I've wondered if it was too-high pressure, but the tyre sidewall says 40-65 PSI and I run them at 50-60. The tyre may be too wide for the rim - but its the original tyre which came on this bike from new. There is no noticeable roughness on the rim at any point, so abrasion seems unlikely. The bike is a 20" folder and has done 1,300 km since I bought it used. Previous owner did minimal riding, so its done maybe 1,500 km total (1000 miles) Lastly, I do occasionally use this bike as a tractor to tow a trailer. Its done 50km towing some amount of weight on a rear-axle mounted trailer, and despite moving some decent loads the nose-weight of the trailer has never been more than 10-12 kg (20-25 libs) Question What was the cause of this tear in my tyre? Edits Yes this is the rear tyre. Its a folding bike that started as 1x6 and this wheel was rebuilt onto an 8 speed cassette hub so its 3x8 gearing. yes it has rim V brakes <Q> You mentioned that it's your rear wheel and that you tow a heavy load. <S> Rear wheels in these setups get a lot of lateral (sideways) loading from the trailer. <S> This can put stress on the bead that it's not designed for. <S> A higher pressure would help stop the tire from rolling side to side -- but you've said you're already on the high end of its pressure range. <S> Maybe look for a tire that is known to have stiff or reinforced sidewalls. <S> I'm going to call herniated sidewalls: a "criggie" from now on. <A> I've lost a (front) tyre to similar damage caused by a sticking pressure gauge. <S> At a rough estimate I put 120psi into a tyre rated for 85 after dealing with a normal puncture (broken glass in the tread). <S> That pump stays on my frame in all weathers <S> but it's not the one I use for topping up or planned changes. <S> About a mile after getting going, a fairly sharp turn and some bumps left me thinking "that sounds like the brake's driving on the sidewall, I'll stop under the next light... <S> that feels like the brake's rubbing on the sidewall... <S> bang". <S> There was probably a slight weak spot but the tyre hadn't worked very hard. <S> So on top of any other causes I suggest you check your pump gauge. <S> Pumping up with very cold air then leaving in the sun can cause quite a large pressure change, but I doubt that's the issue in this case. <A> I've had a few tyres (well... 3) split like this. <S> I'm pretty sure it wasn't the brake block rubbing. <S> In one specific case I went through a pothole and heard a clunk as the tyre flattened out completely. <S> A few days later my tyre split like this and there was a visible mark on the rim at the same point that would have been from the pothole. <S> I think the other 2 cases were less dramatic versions of the same thing - the tyre flattened out due to a pothole, bump or stone that caused a small tear that gets flexed back and forth until it finally gives way. <A> I just had this happen to my rear tire. <S> I was confused at first because the tire didn't make it to even half its normal life span before failing. <S> It turns out I had ridden the bike a short ways during a previous flat tire event a year ago and the wheel rim edges in the bead area had gotten a rough finish on them from making light contact with the asphalt. <S> These rough areas acted on the new tire's surface area at the point of rim contact like sandpaper (or a nail file) little by little until strands of the tire were cut away, weakening the casing and causing the tire to fail. <S> I cleaned up the wheel rim edges to be smooth again and am back in business (with a new tire). <A> There are three variants how this type of tire failure may happen, two of which have already been described in other answers: <S> Local damage to the tire due to bottoming out on a pothole <S> (see WyD1234's answer ) <S> Overinflation due to wrong/faulty pump (see Chris H's answer ) <S> Global damage to the tire due to underinflated riding. <S> With the result that the tire may blow out in the way you've shown any time later. <S> This type of damage acts like a time-bomb: The actual blow out may happen when you are not even near your bike. <S> And you won't know something's wrong until you have the exploded tire. <S> It is enough to just push a bike for some distance when one of its tires are flat due to a puncture (I did that once). <S> Even on a brand new tire (my experience again). <S> So, whatever you do, make sure that you don't ride flat tires .
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If you ride a tire with a pressure so low that it (almost) bottoms out during normal riding, this will damage your tire.
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Labour cost in building a wheel What is the labour cost or time involved in building a wheel. I want to use a different hub with an existing wheel <Q> It depends. <S> If an inexperienced person such as your regular consumer does it, it could take a few hours especially if you don't have the proper tools or preparation. <S> If an experienced person at the shop does it with their tools, it could take half an hour <S> if all the spokes are the right length, it's a standard lacing, or they've done the same wheel before. <S> For example, in this youtube video, a skilled wheelbuilder only takes 7:30 seconds to built a new 32-spoke wheel up from scratch using pre-measured spokes. <S> Dishing and tensioning the wheel would take perhaps another five to ten minutes. <S> These days, many "hand built" wheels are really hand finished. <S> The machine does the initial lacing and tensioning, the human does the final tension balancing. <S> This could take less than five minutes of human time. <S> Note that if you give your shop a random hub and a random rim, it'll take some time to research what spoke length you'll need for the lacing you want. <S> Spokes might also have to be special ordered and/or cut to length. <S> This type of research and prep work would add onto the actual time spent building the wheel. <S> Rear wheels take more time in general than front wheels because of the dish. <S> In the USA in 2017, shop labor is between US$40-80 an hour depending on location. <S> This includes shop overhead such as rent and tool use. <S> The shop may cut you a break depending on how much you are a regular. <S> Tl;dr: <S> Between 0.5 - 2.0 shop hours depending on how much research, special ordering, and preparation is needed as well as the complexity of the job. <A> I bought the parts for a wheel, was $65 for a new rim, $76 for 38 spokes (36+2spares), $10 for nipples <S> and I had a NOS 7 speed hub already. <S> The bike shop offered to assemble the wheel for an additional $100 so roughly two-thirds the cost of the parts. <S> I spent a number of hours working on it myself and got it rideable, but it was not done well enough. <S> In the end I got them to finish the true and that cost me $20. <S> All dollars are New Zealand and date from early 2017. <S> The wheel was a 36 spoke rear 700c road bike wheel, and my main failing was in tensioning and dishing. <S> If you do a front wheel, or a MTB wheel they tend to be a lot more forgiving than a road bike's rear wheel. <S> Answer : <S> A third to half the cost of a handbuilt wheel is in the labour. <S> If you have time, and want to learn, its not hard to build a wheel. <S> HOWEVER <S> If you're not mechanically minded, you're better off to just buy a new wheel or get the LBS to assemble yours for you. <S> The more work you do, the less they have to do so cheaper <S> it is. <S> Also, clean stuff for them, because that's nicer to work on. <S> And allow plenty of time - customers who want it done immediately always pay the urgent rate, rather than "when you can fit it in" customers. <A> Depends on where you are an <S> how well you want it done. <S> Call your local bike repair shops and ask for quotes. <S> They may also be able to refer you to specialized wheel builders. <S> Note that you will likely need new spokes as well as the new hub will require different lengths. <S> Take the condition of the wheel rim into account as well. <A> I bought a hand built wheel set with custom parts for EUR 400 last year. <S> Retail cost of all parts would have been EUR 533. <S> Especially spokes are cheaper in bulk and business-to-business. <S> 48 Sapim spokes and DT nipples and washers alone are close to EUR 150 in retail now. <S> The labour cost of a wheel builder can be small compared to the increased retail prices we pay for some wheel components. <S> You may also get quotes from wheel builders with wheels similar to what you like to have.
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Depending on the quality of your wheel you may find it's cheaper and easier to replace the entire thing. So I would say in terms of shop labor time, on the short side it'd be 0.5 hours of labor for a hub and rim that they're familiar with and have premeasured spokes for; to 2.0 hours for a hub and rim they've never seen and will have to do some research and maybe special ordering or fitting before they can start work on it. The art comes in truing and tensioning that wheel so it works reliably. Always check the market for custom built markets before buying parts and bringing it to your LBS. Disc brakes will also take more time because of the dish or if you change the lacing on that side.
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Attacking during a race when your competitor has a mechanical failure? This question was spurred by the incident that happened during the 9th stage of the 2017 TdF when Fabio Aru attacked Chris Froome right as he experienced a mechanical problem with his bike. The breakaway group lead by Aru was eventually halted by other riders who maintained that they should wait until Froome recovered from the mechanical failure before attacking. What are the unwritten rules in this type of situation? Is it considered bad sportsmanship to attack in this situation, even thought it's a race ? Would a win in a this situation, having not stopped, be tainted in some way or recorded differently? <Q> It's just considered to be bad sportsmanship to take advantage of another rider's mechanical problem. <S> The underlying idea is that, as much as possible, the race shouldn't be determined by random strokes of bad luck. <S> It should be won and lost based on riders' strength, bicycle handling proficiency, as understanding of race tactics. <S> Had Aru continued the attack, most likely the other GC contenders would have followed, but openly chastised him later. <S> That scenario actually happened at the 2010 Tour when Contador attacked while Andy Schleck was dealing with a dropped chain. <S> Contador stated afterward that he was in a group, the group was going hard, and he didn't know about Andy's chain issues. <S> Other riders and commentators said that he shot past Schleck so fast that he must have known something was wrong and roundly criticized him. <S> Whatever the case, Contador took the yellow Jersey that day and held it until the end for the overall win. <S> ( CAS later found him guilty of doping , stripped him of o the title, and gave it to Schleck who had come in second, but that's a different story.) <A> There's also the somewhat nebulous concept of whether or not "the race is on". <S> But if people have already started attacking each other, it's less fair to expect the favorites to stop racing and wait up, potentially wasting whatever opportunities existed on that stage. <S> An example might be if the rider in 5th noticed that the riders in 3rd and 4th are having trouble keeping up. <S> If the person in 1st has a mechanical and the whole group waits up for them, the rider in 5th potentially loses a chance to move onto the podium, through no fault of their own. <S> The "race is on" defense was used in this year's Giro d'Italia. <S> The leader had some "gastric distress" right at the bottom of a major climb, when teams were already fighting each other for position with some in a group out front. <S> The rider in 2nd started to wait up a little, but the other teams were attacking each other, so he had to stay with them. <S> ( http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/racing/giro-ditalia/the-race-was-on-we-couldnt-wait-for-him-say-tom-dumoulins-giro-ditalia-rivals-332303 ) <A> Depends on whom you ask. <S> Ideally there should be surveys to answer questions like this. <S> Surveys for contenders, team leaders, supporters and so on. <S> Just to get a rough idea. <S> It is certainly possible that, like jim's answer, a majority would say it is not the best sportmanship. <S> But there will also certainly be others saying technical failure is, after all, part of the sport. <S> In fact one of the commenters on Belgian national television, an ex-racer and ex-coach, made exactly that claim saying something like 'it's a race , deal with it'. <A> Cycling is a weird sport because you need to cooperate with your opponents. <S> This leads to all kinds of surprising outcomes, such as choosing not to take advantage of an opponent's mechanical problem. <S> We may refer to this as "poor form," but what it really is is bad politics . <S> Rider A might take advantage of Rider B's bad luck one day, but may be dependent on Rider B in a later stage or future race. <S> This also leads to horse-trading in the peloton, where (for example) <S> Rider A and Rider B are in a break together. <S> Rider B is in contention, Rider A isn't, and Rider B offers Rider A a win in that day's stage in exchange for helping Rider B later in the race. <S> I'm not saying that courtesy and fellowship are alien to pro cycling, but these guys have intensely competitive personalities, and they owe their sponsors pictures of themselves crossing the finish line in first place, so I think in most cases, political calculation is a better explanation.
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Basically if you're cruising along in the peloton it would be extremely bad form to suddenly attack out of nowhere when you hear that the leader has had a mechanical, been caught up in a crash, etc. It is not technically illegal to attack in this situation.
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Loud cracking noise after installing new chain I did some work on my Rohloff bike today, installing a new chain & chainring and reversing the sprocket. When trying out the bike afterwards, something in the drive train was making a loud cracking noise under load. First I thought it was the hub, but after a while, I tracked it down to the new chain I had put on. Putting on the old chain was the only thing that made the noise go away. What would cause this kind of noise on a new chain? Did I break it or did it came broken out of the factory? Should I try to get a refund? You can hear the cracking here: <Q> My guess is you have some tight links that are making noise as they go over the sprocket. <S> Those can probably be fixed easily. <S> See this Park Tool video . <S> Tight links are addressed at about 10:35. <S> It might be that you did not join the chain links properly. <S> What method was used to join the chain? <S> A master link or rivet? <S> You can also see the chain tensioning advice in the Park video to check if that is the cause. <A> This happens when you replace your chain but keep your old front and back sprocket. <S> When you install a new chain, and you apply lots of pressure (like when you are accelerating) <S> the round chain links a squeezed into the "V" shaped olds and the creak. <A> It sounds like too much chain tension. <S> The new chain will be ever so slightly shorter (i.e., un-stretched). <S> There are also slight tolerance issues when between a chain ring and cog (e.g., how a chainring is mounted) <S> such that the chain will experience spots of high and low tension. <S> If you didn’t reset the rear wheel position after installing the new/reconfiguring drivetrain components you could a tight spot that is too tight. <S> The length difference between the new and old chain may be enough to make the sound go away with the old chain.
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The problem does not happen if you replace the sprocket and perhaps the cog when you replace the chain. After extended use, the sprocket and cog will wear down from use and the "U" shaped hold will look like more of a "V" over time.
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When to shift gears on a hybrid bike? I know what gears do what (what makes pedaling easier or harder), but my sister and I are having a debate on when exactly to shift. I think I read somewhere that it is better to shift when coasting or lightly pedaling and before the obstacle you are shifting to do better on. Sadly, I can't find the source so I have no proof to show her, she believes it doesn't matter when you shift it but it is better to do it while pedaling. Does anyone know which is correct? <Q> It depends on your transmission. <S> Some internal gear hubs, for example, are perfectly happy being shifted at a standstill. <S> For a derailleur based system, you should shift while in motion while pedaling lightly. <S> It isn't ideal to shift under load, and shifts will be sloppier under load typically. <S> The question of when to shift while riding is a matter of personal preference -- ideally, you want to maintain your cadence or power output, but due to obstacles, you might downshift and get into an appropriate pedal position for continuing riding. <S> It's like shifting in a car -- there are certainly wrong ways, but there isn't necessarily a right way. <S> For example, if I need to round a corner and slow down before, I might shift down before the corner, get the pedals in a position I can round the corner without striking the pedals on the ground, go around and start pedaling again. <S> But I could also get the pedals in position, slow down, come out the other side and downshift and continue going. <S> Neither of these is wrong, but the first one is likely easier. <S> It's also a good habit for coming to a stop and starting -- starting in a high gear is not so nice, and shifting down can be a bit jarring unless you build up a bit of speed in the high gear. <A> "shifting under load" is considered worse for the drive train, but if you have to do it then its not the end of the world. <S> Shifting halfway up a climb is okay, but you do have to back-off the pedal pressure for a half-revolution. <S> This is the same for Derailleur and IGB bikes when shifting to a bigger/easier cog. <S> Derailleur bikes can't shift while coasting, you have to be moving the chain to shift it. <S> Internally Geared Hubs can shift while coasting or stopped. <S> When to shift should be to keep your pedal revolutions in a comfortable range. <S> For most people that's somewhere between 60 and 90 RPM, with higher values for speedy types. <A> Derailleurs require the pedals to be turning forwards in order to shift properly. <S> While avoiding shifting under load is strongly recommended due to wear on the components and possible irregularities (I learnt this lesson the hard way long ago <S> - I was standing on the pedals to get up a sudden steep climb and the chain fell off when I tried to down shift), the rear derailleur handles shifting under load reasonably well. <S> There are other, more exotic, shifting mechanism which I will not attempt to list here. <S> The key thing to remember is to shift down before you absolutely need the lower gear. <S> If you shift too late, you will find you cannot stop pedaling to shift, because you are already going too slow, and you cannot speed up because the gear is too hard. <S> On the other hand, shifting up too late is rarely a problem. <S> In short: shift down before you need the lower gear and shift up only after the previous gear starts being too low.
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Internal gear hubs can shift while standing still but suffer when shifting under load - ease off on the pedals to shift.
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Are modern frame locks "safe"? In the older days I remember that frame locks were soldered onto the frame, but today they seem to be just screwed onto it (example film of installation can be found here ). Doesn't this open for the possibility that someone just unmounts the lock and removes the wheel? (And then takes the wheel to his shop where the lock could be forced and then the wheel combined with another bike that was stolen because the owner only secured the rear wheel to a fixed object) It doesn't look like the screws becomes covered when the lock is locked. I assume that the thief would not like to force the lock at site and that the bike frame and front wheel is locked to a fixed object (using a separate lock). The purpose of the lock would then be mainly to counteract someone stealing the rear wheel. <Q> They are not any less secure than the old style where they are built into the frame. <S> Even if you were to undo the screws, they would still be a solid ring around your wheel, and would prevent the bike from being ridden as it would come into contact with the seat stays, chain stays, and ground as the wheel went around. <S> However, in general, these types of locks aren't very secure as they are highly susceptible to the "pick it up and walk/drive away" method of theft. <S> Once the thief has the bike in their own garage, the lock can easily be cut with basic tools like a hacksaw or a grinder/dremel with a cut-off disk <A> Especially on a heavy bike (and bikes that have the mounting holes for such a lock normally are heavy) <S> these provide some deterrent against casual theftr of the entire bike, as they make the bike unrideable. <S> My wife's e-bike has one just like this, for example; that's a 30+kg step-through so walking off with it or even pushing it with the back wheel off the ground is out of the question. <S> They're sometimes called "cafe locks" based on the typical use case of popping into a busy pavement cafe leaving the bike outside. <S> They do provide some security for the rear wheel -- more than a nutted axle (which is often sufficient deterrent) and much more than a quick release. <S> However if you already have quick release skewers there are secure replacements for them that are lighter, at least as secure, and will fit a wider range of bikes. <S> The attachment to the frame is supposed to be done in such a way that the screw heads are covered by the lock bar when the lock is closed, thus they can't simply be unscrewed. <S> At that point the back wheel may be removed quite easily, depending on frame clearances (it might take a bit of jiggling. <S> This is OK given that it's a low security product in the first place. <S> If you're going to carry a D-lock as well, passing it round both (chain/seat) <S> stays and through the back wheel, to something solid, will provide more security than this lock. <A> When used with a chain it will not make any difference if the lock is unscrewed it still can't be removed from the bike. <S> Without a chain the thief would have to cut through the lock or your rim and tyre.
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They're not very secure though: a drill from the other end of the screw would make short work of it, among other ways to defeat the lock with tools.
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Why are puncture-resistant tires not used in professional races? Having used with great satisfaction puncture-resistant tires for more than 8 years, and having seen how it can happen than in professional races tires can be punctured, I wonder why are puncture-resistant tires not used from team racing in Giro d'Italia or Tour de France. I am sure it is not for economic reason, but I cannot figure why. <Q> To a racer, rolling resistance and handling top the list; durability is far down the list. <S> The coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) for a racing tire on typical French or Italian roads used during a Grand Tour is about .004, or even lower. <S> The Crr of a puncture resistant tire can be > .01. <S> Crr scales like gradient, so the difference between Crr's of .01 <S> and .004 is like constantly climbing a slope of .006 <S> (=.01 - .004), or slightly more than half a percent. <S> On a 150km stage that's like climbing an extra 900m hill. <S> No racer willingly gives up that much advantage, especially when there's wheel support from either a team car or neutral support (and for team leaders, a wheel swap from a team mate) <S> should you get a flat. <A> Puncture resistant tires are heavier relative to non-puncture resistant tires. <S> And you have the question of rider preference -- you're going to set the type of tire + pressures and what not, the way the rider likes it (subject to sponsor and team and race requirements). <S> There are also some cultural aspects with mechanical failures (see also CyclingTips Commentary: <S> Time to bid adieu to ‘gentleman’s rules’ in stage racing ) <S> -- you're expected to be gentlemanly towards the leader if he has mechanical failure with respect to not attacking (and you get criticized if you are not). <S> That being said, the CyclingTips article notes that some teams may be thinking about this to the point of sticking a bit of sealant in. <S> See <S> What are the disadvantages of “puncture proof” (or puncture resistant) tires? <S> for an extensive overview of the advantages/disadvantages in normal use. <S> For a normal person who is not a racer, the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. <A> If you have set of identical riders, and one rider puts a slower tyre on, they will lose if no-one gets a puncture <S> (let's simplify and assume a time trial so we can ignore effects of the peloton). <S> Anti-puncture tyres are slower as seen in R. Chung's answer. <S> Of course for a real race of merely very similar riders who may be having good or bad days, it's not quite as clear cut, but it undoes a lot of the marginal gains that are so popular. <S> Punctures in races are actually quite rare. <S> For a normal road race, that would require sabotage . <S> Here's an old article that might be of interest.
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They also have sloppier handling/less control/higher rolling resistance, and are typically harder to change (though professional racers will usually wheel swap). The only time an anti-puncture tyre would come into its own is if all the other riders suffer punctures.
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Which is safer: country road vs highway? Asking the park ranger about my planned itinerary, her answer was to take, instead, a 4-lane divided highway with wide shoulder, the argument being that it would be safer than using 2-lane/little-or-no-shoulder country roads. Adding that "people drive like crazy" on country roads. I've heard the same argument offered by a park ranger at another location. I personally hate riding on highways, because of the noise but also because this is where the occasional narrows (e.g. bridge, overpass) appears to present more hazard potential, and based on the impression that the difference in traffic volume makes it more likely that a DUI/sleepy driver might hit me. Anyone would be familiar with a source that would offer some indication of the probability of serious or fatal injury suffered by a cyclist as a function of the type of road? EDIT As much as I appreciate the sensible opinions expressed below, I couldn't find any evidence to support the impact of road type on hazard. The closest that I found is a statistics from the UK comparing built-up vs non built-up fatalities and serious injuries for various types of vehicles. The proportion of incidents affecting cyclists vs motor vehicles driver/passengers is the same, irrespective of the road type. Same for A vs B roads. Another way to look at this question - none of the reviews on the etiology of cycling mentioned the type of road. Mentions were made about the hazard posed by intersections (car attempting a right turn while a cyclist overtakes on the right; failure to obey stop or light) and dooring. Sorry for not providing links to sources - I am on tour and using a phone to post/edit <Q> This is highly dependent on where you live and the driving+riding culture in the area. <S> For example: In the town I live in (Midwestern US), heading south or south east on country roads is fine -- people are calm and aware for occasional cyclists. <S> Heading northwest its a tossup between the country roads and following the highway. <S> And heading southwest, I'd follow the highway as long as I could. <S> I've driven along I-40 in Arizona before, and it looked like a wonderful place to bike (esp. <S> near Flagstaff); You could see cyclists on it. <S> On the other hand, other highways may not be good, like I-5 in California from LA to SF (where I doubt it is even legal to bike; if I had to travel along it, I'd rather use PCH 1, depending on the destination). <S> You have asked two (presumably) trustworthy people, who should have a good idea of the area and suggest using the highway. <S> I'd heed their advice. <S> This is probably the best way to check itineraries (ask someone who knows). <S> Systems like google maps and stuff sometimes give you shorter itineraries or whatever, but they aren't necessarily safer roads to ride on or not properly verified data. <S> Highways have some advantages -- regular traffic flow and usually enough room to ride on the side of the road versus narrower roads in the country. <S> Plus, if you do get hurt on a highway, someones likely to see you. <S> On a country road, it isn't clear. <S> The threat of a drunk/sleepy driver on a wide highway shoulder is pretty unlikely relative to something like being hit by a car on a country road cause someone was driving recklessly <S> and/or didn't see you. <S> A shoulder is effectively your own bike lane (modulo the occasional broken down car), and it's ideal to use if you have one. <S> Only downside is you have to be a little more careful with debris like glass bottles and what not in some areas. <S> Plus, on some country roads, you have to deal with wild animals. <S> Less so on highways during the day. <A> Where I live we have one main highway (single lane each way, undivided) with wide shoulders and everything else is narrow country roads with 100km/h speed limits. <S> On these roads, the shoulder line is typically 2-4inches off the edge of the sealed surface, you ride on the white line. <S> Cars are usually driving with the car tire 6 inches off the line. <S> If a driver does nothing when he sees (or does not see) you on the highway, he passes, maybe a fraction closer than normal, you probably have no idea if he saw you or not. <S> On all the other roads in the area, he runs into the back of you at 100km/h, you will almost certainly die. <S> If something is coming the other way, you get maybe 1 inch gap between you and the car, if its trucks, there is no room for two trucks and a cyclist...... <S> Take the highway. <A> Motor vehicles aren't allowed to drive along them (they can only pull over when stopped), but you are, so there's no contention for space. <S> Most of Google maps has the resolution to let you know if the road you want to use has a wide paved shoulder. <S> Failing that, you want multiple lanes in the direction you're going, so that the motor vehicles travelling next to you can get into a different lane and avoid getting near you. <S> Failing, that, you want less traffic (so that there are fewer vehicles who have to maneuver around you) and fewer curves (so that those who have to maneuver around you get plenty of time to plan it). <S> As others have pointed out, many highways are off-limits to non-motor vehicles. <S> This will either be plainly stated in the applicable laws, or there will be posted notifications at the entrances. <A> I ride both sorts, and the width of the main road's shoulder is balanced out by the increase in traffic. <S> Locally our side roads might have exactly no sealed surface outside the lane. <S> Never wear ear-blocking anything when riding such a road - your ears are one of the best radars for sensing if a car is coming. <S> Ideally, I'd ride a road that has zero cars, even if it takes me out of my way. <S> However river bridges tend to be only on main roads reducing the options. <S> Suggestion <S> whatever road you ride, consider investing in daytime running lights for your bike. <S> These are essentially red back lights that are too bright for night usage. <S> Sometimes they may be yellow/orange, but never white (because they face the rear.)
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For your own safety, a wide paved shoulder is the best.
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Charging mobile phone using the battery of a rechargeable bike light? Most rechargeable bike light are charged via USB port. I wonder if is it possible to use them as a power bank for your mobile phone as well? Or only a subset of them can be use as a mobile phone charger? <Q> Answer <S> No, you need an item designed for this purpose. <S> Whether yours do or not, it totally depends on the product. <S> Many modern lights are charged by USB, but they can't supply USB to other devices. <S> Notice 80%+ of this item is batteries, and it probably weighs quite a bit. <S> That claims to be a Rugged 3Watt speaker and hands free kit with 8Ah Power Bank, in-built Charging Cable, LED Flash Torch and Bike Mount. <S> The price is not small. <A> Most lights are not designed for this, and it will not work. <S> Anyhow, even if you had a light that this could work for, its not a great idea to get into the habit of. <S> Why? <S> Phones take a decent amount of energy to charge. <S> With a battery the size of a bike light, you can easily end up draining the battery by trying to charge your phone (especially as the battery capacity degrades). <S> And then, you're stuck in the dark, without a light. <S> And that ain't good. <S> Its well worth carrying some usb charger instead. <S> Small ones which are good for say one charge of your phone can easily fit in a saddle bag or your pocket. <A> To charge a phone you need exactly 5V, at least 0.5A but ideally 1A or more. <S> Forget about USB lights. <S> Their internal batteries are 3.7V which is hard to convert; they're also inaccessible. <S> But many of the high-brightness rechargeable lights use detachable battery packs at 7.4V. <S> This can be converted to 5V with some electronics: <S> either a linear regulator like the old 7805 or better a switching regulator. <S> A better solution is to get a USB battery pack. <S> These are cheap and can charge a USB light or your phone, without running your light's battery down. <S> Update 2018 <S> : Direct USB-powered lights are becoming quite common. <S> These run off any source of 5V with a USB socket, typically a battery pack. <S> So you could have one light and one battery pack, and be able to light your way and charge your phone. <A> Yes, some models have the second USB A type port to provide power, using the charged lamp as battery pack. <S> You can charge your phone or the red rear light, for instance. <S> Google 'bike light USB power bank' to find them. <S> The photo shows Dosun light with 2500mAh capacity accumulator, enough to charge a typical phone battery from empty to almost full. <S> You obviously need to plan the battery usage and have enough also for the light. <S> The light I use has few tiny LEDs at the top that work as a battery charge level indicator. <A> Some lights with internal battery can also be used as a power bank, but only if they are designed for that. <S> There are some external batteries that can be used for that. <S> For example Lupine batteries have USB adapters (Usb one for old usb and Usb two for usb-C). <S> There is wide range of different battery sizes to choose from. <S> Typically external batteries don't use usb, because standard usb connector usually can't be made waterproof. <S> Also some lights require higher current than usb (except usb-C) can provide. <S> Other option is hub dynamo and for example B&M Luxos U and Sinewave Beacon. <S> They are dynamo lights that can also be used to charge devices. <S> Modern dynamos are very good for both light and charging.
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There are other products which combine a USB battery with a light, but the batteries inside these are much larger than a plain light. You'd need a little electronics skill to do this - I won't go into detail here.
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Is there an inherent problem with expanding chainring drives such as Veridrive and WaveTrans? The Veridrive is just the latest iteration of the idea of using an expanding or contracting chainring rather than a derailleur for shifting: There also WaveTrans: We've seen this design tried before (Linley & Biggs' Protean Gear in 1896). What are the problems with these types of systems that make their mass implementation doubtful? On the surface, they seem simpler than epicyclical (planetary) gear systems such as internal geared hubs and cranks. <Q> Yes, there are problems. <S> The moving parts of the chainring drive has to withstand the total force the rider is delivering, because the input to the pedals will try to drive the expanding elements inwards. <S> Complicated precision mechanisms, high strength, and low weight is a combination that is rarely found together for reasonable prices. <S> Compare that to a derailleur system. <S> In a derailleur based drivetrain, the derailleur doesn't see any significant loads. <S> All it really has to do <S> is to move the chain from side to side. <S> That's about it. <S> It can be a little tricky when you are shifting under load, but pins and ramps on chainrings and cogs can do the job to ease the load on the derailleur. <S> In the expanding chainrings, that has to bear the brunt of the entire rider's power output. <S> Ever had a brake cable slip through the binding bolt while braking? <S> That was only with hand power. <S> Imagine standing on the brake lever, imagine how much of a hassle it would be to make that connection rigid enough. <S> Furthermore, imagine trying to shift under load when you have to overcome the force you're putting to the pedals. <A> One possible problem with the Wavetrans is that that a chain drive is inherently not CVT. <S> It is based on integer ratios of teeth. <S> If a given blade of the front ring is aligned and meshing with the chain, its neighbor is likely not aligned properly except in certain precise diameters: (o = o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o)=(o = <S> o) <S> [chain] ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> ^ <S> [chainring] aligned < <S> == variable gap = <S> > <S> oops, not quite <S> It's okay when the arrangement is precisely simulating a 48T ring or a 49T ring; but <S> what if it's sitting at the effective equivalent of "48.37T"? <S> Oops; there is no such thing; it's a misaligned case with "phase shifts" between the sections of the ring, that are fractions of the 0.5" link spacing which the chain doesn't conform to. <S> This could cause issues. <S> Aha, "it's controlled by a microprocessor and a PLC" and actually has six speeds. <S> This probably means what it sounds like it means: the microprocessor dials in proper non-fractional-T ring sizes. <S> If this control system is open-loop (has no error feedback telling it whether it has actually achieved an integer ring size), it's doomed to drift. <S> A microprocessor can be generally regarded as just another problem, not a solution. <A> I attempted to make a CVT like this. <S> However in the end it turned out to be impractical. <S> Here is what I came up with:
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You still need a chain tensioner on the drivetrain too with these systems so there really isn't any benefit apart from novelty. Not only do the mechanisms have to be complex, as you can see in the videos, but they have to be very strong , too.
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How to install a chain that has a pre-fitted pin? My new chain (Shimano 5800 HG600 105) comes with a pin inserted in the outer plate as seen in the picture below. The Shimano dealer's manual makes no mention of this scenario. How to install such a chain? <Q> Shimano 11 speed (5800) should be assembled with a Shimano chain connector pin. <S> The pin is pushed through and the end breaks off. <S> 9/10/11 speed chains outer plates are too narrow to reuse pins. <S> There is literally no margin for error. <S> You actually break part of the pin when you push it out, as such it won't stay in place if reinserted. <S> A missed shift can easily pry the outer plate off the pin causing the chain to fail. <S> I suspect you were sold a used or pre-installed chain, where they pushed the pin partially as a "service" to you, but if you reinsert that pin in all likelihood the chain will fail at some point in the future. <S> Shimano chain connector pin UPDATE <S> The online retailer (guessing chainreaction) may also be selling an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) chain: <S> CRC supply OEM chains which have a short rivet <S> pin partially inserted ready for use. <S> Never had a problem since I learnt how to use this rivet. <S> You have to be careful that you get it in the right position first time <S> when using your chain tool, as there is no room for error, when compared to the long pin type of rivet. <S> If you try to adjust the chain pin it soon comes loose. <S> It isn't just a removed pin, as these are always too loose to use, as part of the rivet shoulder breaks away during removal. <S> Mind you <S> it's always handy to have another way of joining the chain if you don't get the pin right first time. <S> I find that you have to just take your time when pushing the pin through the last bit to avoid going too far through. <S> -- <S> Forum Thread <S> I have never personally had access to OEM (equipment purchased by bicycle manufacturers) <S> so I cannot confirm whether or not this is how the chains come. <S> Either way, the forum thread suggests assembling with these short pins can be difficult (other answers discuss how to do this). <S> You may wish to purchase a connector pin as this is how Shimano intends home mechanics to assemble chains. <S> To clarify this short pin may not be the same as a pin that has been pushed out on an assembled chain. <S> But it is hard to verify what the OP has. <A> Then you'd close the loop by pushing in the master pin. <S> Here are a couple of images of chain tools putting in pins: Chain tools are relatively cheap but make sure it is compatible with the "speed" of your bike. <S> I.e., if you have a nine speed chain make sure you have a nine speed compatible chain tool. <S> This is because the diameter of the pin on the tool that pushes in the link pin has to be smaller than the bushings of the chain. <S> Lower 'speed' tools have wider pins and might damage your chain bushings. <A> See the image of a chain tool pushing the pin in <S> That might be punching the pin out but pretend what you see there is the pin
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You use a chain tool to push the pin into place after making sure the chain is the right length by shortening it (by removing links on the other side of the chain as the master pin).
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Downgearing with a road triple My mother is trying to get back on her bike after years of knee problems + surgery, which so far has gone ok, but she has had some trouble with climbing hills. She's thinking that she should try to get some lower gearing on her bicycle. She currently has a "road triple" with a long cage derailer and a (relatively small, in my book) 11-26 tooth rear cassette. I figured that with a long cage derailer, she should have plenty of flexibility in downgearing her cassette (with a new chain, of course). She took it to her local shop though, and they insisted that she couldn't downgear any more than to a 28 tooth cassette. When I called to ask about it, they said that even if she replaces her derailer, "with a triple it just won't work". I wasn't able to get more details, just a repeat response, even after I asked if the issue had anything to do with taking up chain slack or chain length on the large front + large back combo. Every source I've found about the issue doesn't mention anything very triple dependent. Sheldon's site seems to think that shops are generally overly conservative on their downgearing recommendations, but that page seems to expect a bike with a double chainring. What are the usual limiting factors on a downgearing conversion? What specific concerns should we have with a triple in front? How can I figure out how large a cassette I can get away with? And what ill effects can she expect if she violates the advice of the shop and puts a larger cassette on? <Q> The triple is irrelevant. <S> There may be other ratings on the data sheet -- minimum cog rating, and maximum front chainring difference. <S> These aren't really important. <S> Exceeding the maximum front chainring difference may increase the chance of dropping the chain since the derailleur will need to take up some amount from a front shift. <S> The capacity is generally conservative -- if you don't use combinations like small-small, you can exceed whats written on the derailleur. <S> Obviously, the derailleur needs to be matched for compatibility to the shifter. <S> Another item might be switching the type of bike your mom is riding -- if she has a regular road bike, a more relaxed geometry like a dutch bike may be more comfortable and ridable. <S> Spending some time working out bike fit may also pay off, even with the existing bike. <A> I have a road triple with a 28 tooth maximum. <S> The main limiting factor is where the top jockey wheel sits when over the center-most cog. <S> On my folding bike I overdid it with a 34 tooth gear, and the top jockey wheel does not clear the big cog. <S> Upshot is that it works fine, with the jockey wheel pressing slightly into the edge of the cog under spring pressure. <S> Downside is when I shift up (to a smaller cog) <S> its totally possible for the jockey wheel to be hooked on the wrong side of the cog, and you're stuck in the lowest gear until manual intervention. <S> The fix is to increase the B screw tension, to hold the derailleur down further, but that will reduce the tooth engagement on the smaller cogs, increasing wear. <A> Shimano road derailleurs are rate at 28 max tooth capacity (even the long cage ones), hence the answer you got. <S> However all is not lost. <S> refer Sheldon brown for how they can be made to work on larger cassettes. <S> SRAM road derailleur work with 32 tooth, so you could switch to that. <S> A smaller chain ring might be the way to go. <S> Going to compact will get you down to 28 tooth. <S> Work out what you are prepared to spend, and work back from there. <S> A 32 cassette will probably be able to work well enough, especially if she is careful on the final shift onto the 32. <S> If that failed, you could go to SRAM (Derailleur, shifter and cable) if its in your budget. <S> A good bike shop would have had a discussion aimed at finding a solution for you, not left you hanging wondering. <S> A great bike shop would have worked towards a solution within you budget.
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That being said, you may also want to switch to smaller chainrings depending on the size of your chainrings. So long as the derailleur has enough capacity(which is determined by the size of the chainrings and cogs in the back; this is basically controlling how much chain length derailleur can keep tensioned) and largest cog ratings (for clearance ratings), you can put a bigger cassette. Another option could be a right of return on a 32, and return it an change chain rings, and maybe go up to a 28 tooth cassette.
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Are there real use of the lowest bicycle speeds? I'm confused about the speeds amount in my bicycle. There are totally more than 20 different speed configuration on my bicycle, but are there any practical use of such speeds as 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 2-1. What are that crazy places to use these speeds in real world? Imagine, we can mount top 7 speeds of 10-speed cassette. Would it make sense to avoid slowest speeds since they are unused? P.S.: The smallest speed i have ever used it 2-3 and that was a crazy steep uphill ride with plenty lot of small stones on it. What is your lowest speed? <Q> I dunno about your riding, but I have a 21 speed (3x7) and the lowest gear is 26/28 <S> (that's a 26 tooth front chainring with a 28 tooth big cog on the back block) <S> and I occasionally want one lower on the super steep climbs. <S> At the other end I have a 52/12 and on a downhill I am spinning out too soon. <S> This shows that 28/16 is about exactly the same ratio as 48/28. <S> You might choose to be on the big chainring if you're about to go down hill or flat and smooth, but if the next section is an uphill you would want to be in the little chainring ready for the grade. <S> So the middle chainring is useless? <S> No - without that the front mech would have to lift the chain from the small to the big chainring, <S> and that's a gap of 20 teeth. <S> Most derailleurs can cope with 13 teeth gap, not 20 teeth. <S> To make best use of your gears, you want to ride at a pedal cadence of ~80 RPM. <S> So pick a gear that lets you spin the pedals at about this speed. <S> Too slow <S> and it hurts your knees. <S> Many riders live in the middle ring and use the rear mech to get gears, only changing front ring in the extreme of headwind/uphill or downhill/tailwind. <S> Edit: Here's a segment where 26/28 is only just sufficient: <S> https://www.strava.com/segments/9230838 <S> Strava says the grade is in the upper 30's percentage, and having ridden it I'd agree. <S> The main problem is keeping the front wheel on the ground. <A> I ride the trails and they are steep as heck, and torturous. <S> 30% - 45% climb, and they aint smooth climbs <S> , most of it is rocky. <S> Hence this is when the light gear comes into use. <A> I just returned from a tour with moderate climbing and 1-1 (11-22) was not "low" enough for me on decent grades with 25 kilos strapped to the back of my bike. <S> However, back when I was commuting, I just ran a 1x9 on the 52x(11-32) with a decent uphill climb one way. <S> In this setup I wish I could have gone "higher". <S> I agree in most situations the available standard ranges are unnecessary. <A> Separate answer - I use a 20" folding bike as a tractor to pull around a trailer. <S> When the trailer is loaded, the bike has a lot of weight to get up to speed and then to slow back down. <S> Starting from stopped on the big ring even in 32 on the back is very hard work. <S> The bike in question has a triple on front with 48/38/28 teeth, and the rear is 11-34 8 speed cassette. <S> Combined with 20" wheels, gives this bike an ultra low gearing of 15.4 gear-inches. <S> You can play around with combinations at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html <S> So this bike is 18 kilos <S> , I'm 100, add a trailer at 8 kilos <S> is not a lot more, but add 90 kilos of load on top <S> and then you've essentially got a bike that outweighs the rider. <S> A small incline up to a railway crossing was hard work, and even crossing through some traffic lights, the camber of the cross-road required a drop in gearing. <S> Braking with the heavy trailer was reversed - normally road braking is 90+% from the front wheel, but with a hefty trailer it just pushes the whole bike over the front contact patch. <S> So 90% of the braking here is done with the rear wheel. <S> At one point I was standing astride the main bar with the brakes casually on, and teh trailer started pulling the unladen bike backwards down a slight slope. <S> So I had to stay seated in the saddle even when stopped. <S> tl;dr Low gearing is very handy when towing, exactly the same as in trucks.
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Changing gears will also help spread your overall wear, and lets you get moving quicker from a stop at the red light. You're right - there's an awful lot of overlap between the gear ratios offered. Personally I live in the big ring all the time, until it gets steep. It really depends on your usage scenario.
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Lock jammed on bike My cable lock is jammed. The key fits in but won't turn. What can I do? My bike is locked up outside on the street so I guess the first thing would be to put a second lock on it in case the first randomly comes unlocked. <Q> This depends on where you are to some extent. <S> I would start by asking either the local police or council and if they're not interested a locksmith. <S> Going with someone <S> official makes the job look a lot less sketchy. <S> Might be worth while having the receipt or some photos of you and the bike <S> handy incase you're challenged. <S> And, yours isn't, but for combination locks, you can usually decode them by pulling on the lock body and turning the barrels gently until you feel a click. <A> I suggest you secure the wheels and saddle before long. <S> Component theft is an issue especially on bikes that look abandoned or are otherwise left in the same place for some time. <A> The lock may be corroded inside which has jammed it. <S> You might try spraying a little WD-40 or similar product into the lock and see if this frees it up. <S> If something has broken in the lock, then you'll have to cut the cable using bolt cutters.
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That said, most cable locks are pretty worthless and if you're not worried about getting stopped, some quality cable cutters or small bolt cutters would do the trick.
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Stripped threading on upper rear rack bracket One of the rear rack holes on my aluminum frame have become stripped after a year of taking the rear rack off at least once a week. I've been using this bike for commuting and weekend riding, so I like to remove the rack when I'm not carrying panniers. I've asked a few bike shops about rethreading the hole and have gotten multiple responses. One shop there is a tool that some shops have that can rethread it. Another said I was out of luck. One criticized me for taking the rack off often. The last one I asked said some shops could do it but you'd have to go up a screw size. What's the consensus here on this type of frame repair? At the moment I can still use the rack since it's still secure with the one loose screw. I intend on getting a new bike at the end of the year for non-commuting, so I will make this a dedicated commuter bike where I can leave the rack on it when that happens. <Q> A few ideas: Buy a seatpost-mounted rack (this would be a good solution for the long term if you want to keep taking your rack on and off, but check the weight limits). <S> If you're going to keep doing this, when you've solved the immediate problem, put some stainless studs in the holes with threadlocker and use a nut on the outside. <S> You should probably use a dome (acorn) nut to avoid hard edges. <S> If there's a rubbish thread but just enough to get a bite, degrease the hole, cover the first few turns of a stud in epoxy and screw it in. <S> Leave overnight before fitting the rack. <S> P-clips onto the seat/chain stays can replace the mounting bosses for all but the heaviest racks. <S> You could probably tap it out. <S> I'm used to M5 rack mounts so you'd need to go to M6. <S> I'll the hole out with a 5mm drill then use an M6 tap. <S> You'll probably need to start with a taper tap then change to a bottoming tap. <S> You'll also need to open the hole on the rack to a little over 6mm (if you can't get a 6.2mm drill, use 1/4"). <S> I reckon a metric tap set is worth having, but be sure to get one with pilot drills as these are otherwise uncommon sizes. <S> On my bikes I'd go for (1) P-clips (or tap if high loads and plenty of material); (2) tap it out (3) seatpost rack; <S> (4) epoxy and only on my old bike. <S> But I already have all the tools/materials for all these options. <S> All links are examples rather than recommendations. <S> It should probably go without saying <S> but if you've got a child seat mounted on the rack, you should probably forget about the repair, or using the rack in its current state. <S> But you can get a seat that fits to the seat post. <A> Most anchor points in aluminum frames are not an actual tapped holes in the frame. <S> It is a threaded inset that attaches to the frame similar to the way a pop rivet works. <S> On older frames they were sometimes referred to as braze-ons. <S> If you search for Nutsert or rivet nut they may be available at your local home center. <S> While the individual inserts are not expensive the insertion tool can be close to $80. <S> The inserts can also be troublesome to remove. <S> Attempting to drill them out usually results in the insert spinning in the mounting hole. <S> A local custom frame builder may be able to help you as they likely have the tool to install bottle cage mounts and such. <A> Going up a size (to M6) or installing a Helicoil are both good options if there's a reasonable amount of material surrounding the eyelet, which is true for all but the daintiest. <S> But either approach is sound and any real shop can do either as needed. <S> If clearance is tight, use a buttonhead M5 bolt run from the inside out, so the nut is outside.
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The simple, non-shop fix is use a longer bolt plus a nut. If you want to keep taking it off regularly, the Helicoil is a little better option in terms of preventing similar issues in the future, since now you'll be doing it with steel threads.
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Entry level bike for 140kg rider - what features to look for and what to avoid? I am a fairly large person (140kg). 7 years ago I used to bike quite a lot (I would go everywhere every day on the bike). Back then I weighed much less (I also was much younger, now I am 20 years old). I am looking to buy an entry level bike (is around 250 euros but I can go higher, which is a decent sum in Romania). My question is: what should I look out for in choosing my bike in order to be sure that I am buying a bike that will last me for some time: what parts that tend to be most affected my the users' weight should I check, what dimension for the tires (I am 1.90 m tall) etc. I will mainly use it to go on normal, asphalt, roads, so I don't require something that is sturdy from that point of view. I plan on using it almost as much as I used the bike back then. <Q> You should buy a touring bike. <S> Whereas a regular road bike can accommodate a person weighting 100kg, a touring bike can accommodate a person weighting 100kg and also 40kg of cargo. <S> So, without cargo, a touring bike will accommodate a 140kg person. <S> Needless to say, avoid those low spoke count wheels and select 36-spoke wheels. <S> Less spokes than 32? <S> No way! <S> (Although I have to say you can get away with 32 spokes on the front wheel, but I don't see the reason for making such a strange choice.) <S> Unfortunately, such quality bikes cost starting from about 1000 EUR, not about 250 EUR. <S> The one I have has been built myself from the Long Haul Trucker frame: <S> http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker <S> but I wouldn't recommend building a bike yourself unless you really want to learn how bikes work. <S> I don't believe you can find a decent touring bike as new costing only 250 EUR, so your only options are to increase your budget or to look for used touring bikes. <S> http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/constrictor <S> If you find the spokes don't stay tight, first have <S> a competent mechanic adjust spoke tension and true the wheel, and if that doesn't help, buy some good quality rims and have new wheels built. <S> The wheels I built myself use these rims: <S> https://www.rosebikes.de/artikel/xtreme-sari-t-19-r-28-atb-felge/aid:46903 ... <S> that absolutely can withstand a 140kg person, provided that the spokes are tight. <S> Unfortunately, they don't seem to offer a 36-hole variant anymore (I bought them when 36-hole variant was offered), so that may necessitate making the strange choice of 32 spokes. <S> Use DT Swiss Alpine triple-butted spokes in the 2.0mm variety if you need to have a new wheel built. <A> The older Bridgestone (MB-2,3,4,or 5), Trek 820 or 850 or Specialized RockHopper. <S> The older mountain bikes were built for what was then considered abusive conditions. <S> They are more than strong enough for bike paths or grassy trails. <S> Don't even consider taking them on any kind of technical terrain. <S> If you mount street slicks or mild knobbie they can be quite streetable. <S> The cranks tended to be in the 48t-36t-26t range. <S> This gearing lends itself to touring and hilly road riding. <A> With cheaper bikes the rear cluster of sprockets may be the old screw-on freewheel type. <S> Avoid this at all costs. <S> I was about 110kg when I bought my first bike with a freewheel <S> and I kept snapping axles. <S> The layout of the bearings within the hub means your weight and pedaling force exert a strong leverage on one end of the axle. <S> You want a newer cassette type rear hub. <A> I'd suggest a used steel rigid commuter bike or mountain bike. <S> Used is cheaper, and you'll get more value for your money. <S> However look out for stolen bikes, and have no fear of walking away if anything feels bad. <S> How do I tell if a used bike (craigslist) is worth it? <S> and What should I look for when buying a used bicycle? <S> are good reads. <S> Steel <S> because its relatively strong, and more forgiving when you stress it. <S> Rigid because suspension breaks down over time, and at your mass you'll be stressing it pretty hard. <S> Also, suspension adds weight making the riding slower and harder. <S> Commuter or hybrid or MTB <S> style with a flat bar gives you a more upright position, and helps avoid the belly/thigh collisions that come about if you try and ride a road bike. <S> There's a fair chance that when you've lost a bit of weight, you might want to try something road-ish, but to get started, just be riding. <S> Finally - one of the great quotes of cycling is that "it never gets easier, you just go faster" <S> So it can feel like you're not making any progress at all. <S> Instead, get a phone app like Strava and track all your rides. <S> Once you've been down some segments a couple of times, you'll notice your times steadily improving, and that's exactly what you need to see to maintain motivation.
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If you find your seat post slips due to your high weight, buy a big honking seat post clamp: I would suggest a quality older Chrome-moly steel framed rigid fork mountain bike. You don't need suspension on the road, and not even on many off-road trails. There is absolutely no reason to choose 32 spokes unless you really have to.
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Bike ride not smooth I've a full suspension mountain bike with a 26 inch knobby on the front wheel, this knobby has got these rectangular knobs poking out. My problem is that I find my bike's ride "not so smooth". I currently inflatate my front tire to 32 PSI and the rear one, with a better tread and sleeker dimension, to a 34 PSI. The knobbies are particularly buzzy and make this very unlikeable buzz, even on low speeds. Plus my bike's rear hub makes the rear wheel and freewheel wobble, plus the wheels doesn't rotate very smoothly, what should I attribute the bumpy and seemingly harsh ride to? Also, what degree of changes should I make to my inflation levels? My knobby front is new, so changing is really not an option and well, the knobby owes itself to my unknowing self a while back. What I'm looking for is a better riding experience and satisfaction. And, how urgent is the rear hub overhaul, really? I mostly ride on nice paved roads with zero dirt trail encounters (a metropolitan, no far-off excursions) <Q> I have similar treads and vibration on my hardtail. <S> I don't recommend this one. <S> I would prefer to keep the vibration than to reduce my efficiency. <S> I recommend this one because smoother tires will not only make your ride smoother, but also increase efficiency. <S> You should do this unless you are on a limited budget. <A> On the road knobby will buzz. <S> If you want less buzz then less knob. <S> You need to get the hub serviced and wheel trued. <S> Why did you buy a knobby if you mostly ride on roads? <A> Increasing pressure a few PSI may help or it may be worse - you'll need to experiment yourself on this. <S> And it'll buzz until worn smooth. <S> I've never tried this, but I have seen someone's effort to make slicks. <S> http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-bicycle-slick-tires/ <S> However this will drastically reduce your tyre life, and one slip with a grinder will leave you needing a new tyre anyway. <S> Plus it makes a huge mess. <S> Also, the rubber inside the tyre is softer than the rubber on the surface, so it will wear quicker.
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Just replace the tires to smoother ones. You can try wearing your knobs off by riding, but this will leave you with relatively thin carcass and more vulnerable to punctures. Some solutions: Reduce the pressure, but this will increase rolling resistance, thus reducing efficiency.
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How to disassemble this v brake arm? I have managed to repair 10yr old diamondback hybrid as different parts fail. I even disassembled the rear wheel to replace few spokes. But I cannot figure out how to disassemble the rear v-brake arm. (I already replaced the front.) In the second image you can see the regular bike bolt on the left. When I unscrewed that the arm came off. But looks like the bolt doesn't directly connect to the frame and there is something else (a boss?) between the bolt and the frame and that came off with the bolt. The new brake (Shimano Mountain Bicycle V-Brake - BR-T4000 - Rear) is exactly like the old one, but does not have this extra piece. So I need to dissamble that from the old brame arm and reuse. So far I have tried soaking in wd-40 and also freezing the whole thing and then heating the boss(?) but neither worked. Also noticed that this piece is tubular and has threads inside. A regular bike bolt fits in there and probably it goes all the way. So screwing something into that doesn't give me much grip either because it turns the same way. Any ideas other than 'take it to the bike shop'? Thanks. The reason I need to replace the brake is that the small metal rod which pushes the brake away during releaseing the brake broke. <Q> Looks to me like you've managed to unthread the brake boss from the frame. <S> That's not part of the brake lever. <S> Normally you'd undo the dome-head silver bolt visible on the left side of your photos. <S> Then you need to grasp the thread and undo it without damaging the thread.... <S> that's difficult. <S> One "dirty hack" is to find two nuts of the same thread and internal diameter. <S> Thread them on fully and cinch them up against each other as hard as you possibly can. <S> Then put those two nuts in your bench vise tightly, and use a long arm 5mm hex tool to lever it off. <A> That is the brake boss. <S> It should not come out easily Instead of trying to save it, just buy a new brake boss and fit it using red loctite (ie the medium strength one) <S> Clean the fork threads first according to your threadlocker's instructions <S> Consider replacing both brake bosses. <S> One has come loose so the other might too. <S> Brakes are kinda important. <A> Sometimes you can fix this problem by screwing the whole thing back into the frame and tightening it a bit. <S> Then when you unscrew it again the brake bolt rather than the brake boss will come free. <S> If that happens your problem is solved! <S> Make sure that the brake boss is secure and doesn't have play. <S> That would suggest some damage may have caused the loosening.
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Even though it should not come out easily, occasionally the brake boss will work its way loose. If you stick a 5mm allen key/hex tool in that bolt, and mount the allen key in a vise would be a start.
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What is the maximum tire pressure? I have a Trek FX3 with Bontrager AW1 Hard-Case Lite, 700x32c and I would like to know what the maximum tire pressure is? The reason I ask is when riding at higher speeds and turning it feels like the back tire is going to come off. I found this article on bontrager tire pressures but it is unclear which precise model of tire I have as there is no combination of AW1 and Hard-Case Lite ? UPDATE I inflated the tires to 85psi and the issue has gone away (they were at 55 psi). Went on a 40 mile ride and noticed a significant improvement in the bike performance and stability. Thank you for the help. <Q> Often the embossed lettering is hard to read, shining a flashlight at an angle can give you the contrast to make it easier to read. <A> The min and max pressures for a tire are written on its sidewalls. <S> Funny <S> that the Bontrager table does not have an entry for AW1 Hard-Case Lite <S> 700x32c, however, I notice that the pressures for AW1 Hard Case and AW2 Hard Case Lite for each of 20, 23 and 28 mm sizes are the same, so you should be safe with the specified pressure for the AW2 tire: 55-100 psi, 3.8-6.9 bar. <S> Update: To get a feeling a tire is coming off a rim in a turn you would have to be running a very low tire pressure, probably less than the minimum specified. <S> 70 - 80 psi in that tire should be fine. <S> If increasing the pressure does not help, there may be another issue with your rear wheel. <A> The max pressure should be written on the tire's sidewall. <S> If you haven't felt it sluggish or squirming at low speeds, then your tire should be quite well inflated. <S> If the tire is inflated over its min pressure, and it seems that it is, then there's really little chance that it will come off. <S> A normal pressure for a 32C tire is around 4.5 to 5.5 bars or 65 to 80 psi for an avg weight person on an unloaded bike, usually, there's no reason to go above that. <S> (If you weigh over 80-90kg, then you can go a bit higher) Option #1: <S> Your hub is loose (or your spokes are not tensioned well, but this is not likely). <S> Your rear wheel should not have any side to side movement, other than a small flex from the spokes. <S> Some wheels are more flexy than others, but you shouldn't feel any play in the hub. <S> If there's play, then it's the best to take it to your LBS. <S> Option #2: Probably you corner so fast/hard, that your tire does not have enough grip on that given road surface <S> and you're sliding a bit as you hit the limits of the tire. <S> Option <S> #3: Your tire is one that squirms that much even at the right pressures. <S> You should not over inflate your tire because of this as it will decrease the grip, comfort and over a point even rolling resistance. <S> You have to find the sweet spot that works the best for you. <S> Also note, that a tire inflated over its max pressure is not safe and I wouldn't run any tire near to its max pressure, if there isn't a good reason, like carrying a heavy load or being really over weight.
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The maximum tire pressure should be written on the sidewalls.
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What makes a durable and dependable commuter bicycle? I ride between 150 - 180 Km per week (depending on route) and all of it is on bike path or road. I have been riding a Norco Alloy Threshold Sora. It has not been a fun experience, because within a year I have had both wheels replaced (lost too many spokes), oh my riding weight is close to 90 Kg. And recently the left pedal crank sheared off...(still within a year of purchase).I am just wondering if I am expecting too much from this bike as a daily commuter?Whether I should be investing in something like a Surly etc?Love to get some advice from you guys. <Q> You probably have too high expectation. <S> I imagine very few bikes with Sora quality components would be ridden that far in 10 years, let alone 1. <S> At those distances, a weekly maintenance check on the normal stuff - tire pressures, cleaning and shifting, brakes etc needs to also include tires, wheels and spoke tension, chain wear and bearings <S> (Headset, BB) etc. <S> Most main stream brands have a model that is aimed to be robust than their out and out racers, so its more matter of choosing the right frame, then the right component level. <S> At those distances, 105 would be a good level to aim for. <S> Too high spec components are trading durability for weight. <S> Wheels and spokes fail from poor initial build quality and lack of maintenance - a Sora quality bike would have come with machine built wheels so chances are the problems started before it left the factory. <S> Upgraded wheels are better to the point they are being made lighter rather than stronger. <S> if you really want them to last, go for 36 spoke wheels, and get them tuned by a good wheel builder before riding, and after a few hundred kilometers. <S> Wheel made for gravel or touring bikes will last longer than wheels made for speed. <S> Crank failure is most likely due to something other than high use - accident damage or manufacturing fault. <S> Cranks do have a very high margin of safety as a failure is catastrophic - More expensive cranks are usually stiffer and lighter, and if anything, weaker rather than stronger. <A> I've had a few years of only slightly less distance per week on entry level components (mix of mountain and road shimano on a GT hybrid, gearing is 3x8) <S> so you can do it without spending a fortune. <S> I'm a similar weight to you. <S> In 30-40 000km I have replaced the chain and cassette a few times, crankset (riveted) once and BB twice. <S> I didn't take particularly good care of it. <S> I've also had to replace the back wheel when the rim broke at the end of a spoke. <S> I took the chance to fit a 36 spoke touring wheel (hand finished in a factory; it was perfectly true and stayed that way for months). <A> A bike with hub gears may be of benefit if you can live with the upright riding position. <S> The modern dutch bike with 7-speed hub gears, enclosed chaincase dynamo lighting front suspension and racks for pannierbags etc have a lot of durability and need modest maintenance, but they are not cheap to buy!I <S> bought such a "dutchie"7 years ago, I do not commute daily but for shopping and 20 mile trips my dutchie workhorse earns its keep. <A> I bicycle about exactly the same amount per week, and I bike both on road and in parks. <S> Bikes are essential for me getting to work and other places, so I decided for a bulletproof solution (which may not suit you, or most other people): I commute on a singlespeed bike. <S> There is almost nothing that can go wrong on these bikes. <S> All the maintenance I do is the occasional oiling of the chain, and topping up the pressure in the tires. <S> Paired with puncture resistant tires, I have the confidence that I will be able to ride my bike to work and back home, every day. <S> As I mentioned, this is not a solution everyone will like, but you might consider it as an option.
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With any bike the amount of regular maintenance is far more important to longevity than any other aspect. There are enough potholes that I can't always go round them in traffic, but unweighting the saddle helps a lot with reducing the load on the bike. Low spec will wear out too quickly. Buying something like a Surly would be a good choice, any brand renowned for reliably rather than performance (Clydesdale vs thoroughbred) would be a good choice. I use drum brakes on the rear wheel, which are completely insulated from atmospheric conditions and dust, and I never have to adjust brake pads.
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Clicking noise coming from rear When I first set out on my bike for the first 10 minutes there is a very audible clicking sound coming from the bike. After 10 minutes have passed the sound disappears. It's coming from either the Bottom Bracket area or Rear Wheel area but I have looked at it and cannot figure out what is causing it. Any ideas? Bike model is a Pinnacle Ramin 3 <Q> Pinnacle is Evans Cycles' house brand. <S> Evans offers a free "6-week" check up with all new bikes. <S> Ensure they note the spoke tension problem on the worksheet when you book the bike in. <S> When wheels are built, the spokes can hold a smooth curve through a crossing point, especially with thicker plain-gauge (unbutted) spokes, rather than forming a kink at the crossing point. <S> With normal "J-bend" spokes, the bend at the elbow may keep its original 90 degree angle and prevent the head from settling properly in the hub drillings. <S> Over time, this bend may tighten or loosen (depending whether it passes through the hub flange outwards or inwards) until the head is properly flat against the face of the hub flange. <S> Both of these stresses may settle over time causing spoke tension to be lost. <S> Experienced wheelbuilders will attempt to relieve most of this stress before finally ensuring the wheel remains true and has the correct tension. <S> As the wheel is used, the twist-tension of wind up can release itself by unscrewing the spoke from the nipple or by spinning the nipple within the rim. <S> Wind-up can be limited by using proper lubrication at the nipple threads and where the nipple sits in the rim, and by using brass washers between the nipple and rim (especially with a rim that doesn't have eyelets). <S> When choosing lighter spokes, a bladed spoke (such as the Sapim CX-ray) allows the wheelbuilder to see wind-up and prevent it by holding the flat section of the spoke. <A> 1) Check the rear quick release is on tight .A <S> lose rear quick release can cause clicking issues / noises from the bottom bracket. <S> 2) Check the tightness of the chainring bolts. <S> Make sure they are tight. <S> Some alloy chainring bolts will cause clicks as the chainset is placed under strain on hard efforts. <S> 3) <S> Your bottom bracket is worn or loose?Check the fitting is flush and tight. <S> Check if the bearings still feel smooth when turning the chainset. <S> A press-fit BB should be dry-fit. <S> A threaded BB should be greased. <A> If it is full suspension mtb bike, it is possible that the cracks are caused by worn joints of the full suspension (bearings).
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Another cause of tension-loss with lighter butted spokes is wind-up, whereby as the tension is increased during the build, friction between the spoke threads and nipple threads can prevent the nipple from screwing further onto the spoke, causing the body of the spoke to twist instead.
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4 punctures in one week, even after replacing tube and tire, what's happening? I've just had my 4th puncture in 8 days on the bike I use to commute to work. Same back wheel each time. I haven't had a puncture before in the 2 years I've had this bike. After the first puncture I replaced the tube.After the second puncture I repaired the tube.After the third puncture I replaced the tube and got a new tire.Two days later it's punctured again. What's strange is that the punctures - tiny, like a thin needle - have all been on the part of the tube facing the tire. They have all been randomly spread around the tube with respect to the valve. Both these seem to indicate it has nothing to do with the rim, and yet with a new tire it's still punctured...? Any thoughts? (I'm considering the possibility that someone is sabataging my bike while it's parked in my university parking, though there is evidence against this also.) <Q> The first three punctures were caused by some damage in the tire (the punctures on the tube were all on the tire side). <S> After I replaced the tire, I got another puncture - but this time the puncture was on the part of the tube facing the rim. <S> On inspection I was that my rim tape was protruding up at the point of the puncture. <S> Because I had a new tire and tube I had pumped the wheel up more than usual, which perhaps meant that rim tape protrusion was now a problem. <S> So, four punctures in one week: three from the tire, one from the rim. <S> For anyone else experiencing a confusing series of punctures, consider that you may be unlucky and that there are multiple problems in your wheel! <A> Did you replace your tire with a brand new one, or did you originally buy a bunch of tires? <S> Replacing your old tire with another tire you bought at the same time as the one in the bike, will not solve your problems. <S> One advice I feel very comfortable giving you, is to use Schwalbe's puncture resistant tires. <S> For a commuter, this is a no-brainer. <S> If you want a bombproof solution, you could get the Scwalbe Marathon <S> Plus: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-plus.html <S> Depending on your body weight and the conditions on the road, a Marathon Plus might be overkill. <A> Also, check beneath the rim tape to make sure <S> the spoke hasn't been adjusted so the end of the spoke protrudes beyond the nipple and into the tape. <A> Had anything significant changed on your route? <S> In my city we had a bad delivery of crushed glass, which is used for marking cycle lanes like this: <S> And suddenly there was a spate of punctures. <S> Turns out that green covering is made of glass which has been tumbled long enough to remove all the sharp edges, but not long enough to polish the flatter sides. <S> So its got some grip for the paint, but shouldn't be sharp enough to puncture. <S> Consider what might have changed on your route - new asphalt or roadworks? <S> A new patch of broken bottle in your lane somewhere?
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The answer to my question -- why did my bike puncture four times, even after replacing the tube and tire -- turned out to be: bad luck . Some brand/model tires (for example, some cheaper Continental tires - the ones Conti outsourced to Russia) deteriorate over time just by being exposed to air/oxygen.
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There don't seem to be many (or any?) carbon wheels for 9 speed bikes I have a 9 speed Shimano Sora road bike and I would like to get some nicer wheels without upgrading the bike or anything else at the same time. Carbon wheels seem to mostly (or entirely) 10/11sp? Can any carbon wheel be made to fit a 9 speed bike with some sort of spacer? <Q> Shimano 11 speed road freehub bodies are longer and require a common 1.8mm conversion spacer to put a 10/9/8 speed cassette on. <S> Many wheels come with this spacer, or a generic one can be used. <S> 11-speed road cassettes do not fit on 8/9/10 speed freehub bodies, although some machining hacks can allow it in some cases. <A> All Shimano 8-11 speed road cassettes fit on the same freehub body and you just have to use spacers to accommodate for the different widths. <S> More info from Bike Radar Shimano 10 speed cassettes are actually smaller than 9 speed, as the spacings are narrow and go on a Shimano 8-10 speed cassette with a spacer, which is provided with the cassette (Tiagra does not use the spacer). <S> They also go on the newer 11 speed Shimano freehub, as long as the 1.8 mm spacer (as included with the hub) is used in combination with the tiny spacer provided with the cassette. <S> Also 9 speed Shimano cassettes and 8 speed will go on an 11 speed freehub using only the 1.8 mm spacer. <S> If you have an 11 speed Shimano cassette, this will only go on the new wider 11 speed freehub. <A> I just got a pair of Vision TC24 carbon wheels (for tubular tires) for use as racing wheels on a 90's vintage Bianchi steel road bike, that we already retrofitted with 9-spd system a couple years ago. <S> Although the wheels specs state <S> Shimano 10-11spd compatible, my 9-spd cassette fits just fine without a spacer. <S> It's going to be an awesome ride! <S> Wheels can make a huge difference in performance, and are arguably the most cost effective way to improve the performance of your bike. <S> Plus, as another reply stated, wheels are "portable" for when you upgrade to another bike.
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Any Shimano compatible 10-speed wheel, other than a very few with special deep-splined aluminum freehubs such as WH-7800, can take any 9 speed Shimano cassette without additional spacers.
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Higher saddle height and pressure on palm It is recommended to adjust saddle height using a formula . I made calculation and adjusted the saddle position to a higher point than my usual riding position. But now pressure on my palm increased significantly in spite of comfort in riding. Should I use some hand gloves or put some good type of handlebar cover? What are the recommendations for saddle height and palm pressure adjustment? <Q> Rather than setting your seat height according to a formula, I recommend setting it through experimentation. <S> The rule of thumb is that you should set your seat height so that when one leg is fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, that knee should be almost but not quite straight. <S> You should be able to pedal comfortably without rocking your hips in this position. <S> Note that this height can change based on how much you ride, the fore/aft position of the seat on the seatpost, your age, etc. <S> This is just a starting point--you need to repeatedly fine-tune your seat height to find what works for you. <S> Raising your seat without making any other changes is naturally going to rotate your torso forward so that you carry more weight on your hands, as you've discovered. <S> You may simply get accustomed to this in time. <S> You could also raise your handlebars to rotate your position back. <S> Lots of cyclists (myself included) do wear padded gloves, and it's not a bad idea to try them, but these are more to smooth out shocks transmitted through the handlebars than to redistribute your weight. <S> Either adapting to your position or correcting it is more important. <A> I would not regard that site's seat height calculator as a good guide. <S> It seems very simplistic, and there is no indication of what method it is based on. <S> The best saddle height for any given rider really cannot be determined through a couple of measurements. <S> Most methods involve the rider sitting on the bike, looking at how far the legs extend when pedalling, and making adjustments. <S> Then making further adjustments based on how they feel while riding. <S> One of my favorite guides to saddle height is this video from GCN . <S> Googling can yield other guides and how-tos. <S> Once you are sure your saddle height is good you can address hand pain. <S> You may be in a too aggressive position (body leaning more forward) that is putting more weight on your hands than you want. <S> The body's core strength serves to take weight off of the hands, so you may find you get used to the new position and the problem goes away. <S> If not, consider raising and moving back your handlebars to achieve a slightly more upright riding position. <A> How long have you been riding in the new position?
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You can also try to adjust the handlebar height or using gloves. It can also be that your back muscles need to get used to the new position and therefore you are temporarily overloading your hands.
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Help identify this Raleigh bike New to Bikes so hoping this question is OK. My partner was recently given an old Raleigh bike for free and has since taken it to get the cables and tyres replaced, but as it's quite small (for teens?) she plans to trade / swap / sell it for something more her size. I know nothing about bikes whatsoever, but apparently the people in the repair shop said it's quite unique. Can anyone tell me anything else about it? Era / 'model' / history or the like? <Q> The Jeep is a giveaway. <S> There really was a Raleigh Jeep. <S> It's on page 7 of this 1971 catalogue . <S> You're right, it was meant for girls. <S> That massive headlight isn't original. <S> Otherwise it's a nice looking bike that needs some work. <A> Not unique (ChrisH has already nailed it), but unusual, and possibly rare. <S> What it won't be is valuable. <S> Kind of fun, but kind of clunky by modern standards. <A> I had one of these bikes for Xmas in 1971, it was my pride and joy. <S> I seem to remember that it had white tyres, and the saddle was white plastic.
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You have the bicycle equivalent of a 1970s manually-tuned push-button TV. It didn’t have the light on the front, or the rear carry frame when it was new, they must have been extras.
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I'm a novice not sure where to get a bike education? Like most kids I road everywhere through high school than my biking waned to the neighborhood rides with my kids when they came along. Currently I have a Schwinn Single Speed Cruiser that my dad special ordered for my mom from a Schwinn shop in the late 80's/early 90's. She didn't ride it much and I've had it about 18 years and my hubby has kept it maintained for me. I have no knowledge of bike vocab/lingo but want to extend my biking skills and ride more trails. I don't know where to start, don't know if I have the best bike although at this point it's what I can afford. Advice? <Q> I would inquire at your local bike shop or look on the internet for a local bike advocacy group in your area. <S> These are generally a fantastic resource. <S> Some of the education my local group offers are below, additionally they also have regular rides, both adult and family oriented. <S> I have heard of other groups offering comparable resources all over the US and Canada. <S> If you happen to be in the US, The League of American Bicyclists has a search tool to find local groups. <S> Youth Education Confident City Cycling Basic Maintenance Skills Safe Routes to Schools Resources for Employers <A> To learn the vocab/lingo, I suggest Tom Cuthbertson's "Anybody's Bike Book," which is out of print but can usually be found for a few dollars on Amazon.com. <S> There are some terrific drawings in the book that name the various parts and show where they are. <S> It's also an entertaining read, although I also like "Chainbreaker" by Ethan Clark and Shelley Lynn Jackson. <S> For actually doing repairs, Youtube is essential. <S> just search for videos on any subject regarding bikes and you'll get plenty of choices. <S> I myself gravitated to videos by the Park Tool company, Global Cycling Network and RJ The Bike Guy. <S> Incidentally, that old Schwinn could be worth significant money, depending on its condition (rust, etc.). <S> Lots of folks enjoy refurbishing a good old Schwinn from the 80s. <S> Have fun! <A> Look for cycling clubs and local bike shops (usually abbreviated to 'LBS' here) in your area. <S> Many cycling clubs cater to casual riders and organize group rides that include casual groups. <S> Riding with like-minded others <S> so a great way to learn about cycling and find trails in your area suitable for the type of riding you want to do.
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Many local bike shops also organize group rides that cater to casual riders.
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Hydraulic disc brakes not sticking after replacing pads and bedding in So i first bleed my brakes and really botched it, getting brake oil everywhere. I cleaned up, got new pads and wiped the rotors down. I got new brake pads which i the proceeded to bed in. Eventually they stuck well and I declared them ready to go and put my bike away. About 2 weeks later I get it out again, and the brake doesnt stick well, and is squeaking. I sand the brake pad and bed it in again and then braking performance improved. Now i took my bike out and it seemed like the same thing happened. Is it that the brakes arent fully bed in yet? Why would my braking improve then become worse after I put my brake away? <Q> Place a wooden ruler or a piece of paper folded 8 times instead of disk rotor to check brakes. <S> Then take your rotor and pads and thow them away to get new one. <S> When oil gets between rotor and pads, your pads get oiled and they will place oil onto new rotor. <S> Rotor itself can still contain some oil on it after washing, you will not be able to remove it. <S> So old rotor will place oil onto new pads. <S> That is why you need to replace both. <S> The other way is to overheat your pads and rotor in open flame for about 10..15 minutes. <S> Open fire will burn oil, but it is dangerous - pads may blow up and rotor may get screwed, so this is "i have no money" way <A> Your best bet is to replace both, and wipe down all the other relevant parts (e.g. brake caliper housing) with something like rubbing alcohol before trying to put the new pads and rotors on. <S> If you're really set on reusing the existing rotors, I'd recommend take them off and wash with hot slightly soapy water until "squeaky" clean, then rinse thoroughly with very hot water. <S> Allow them to dry, then wipe thoroughly with clean paper towel wetted with rubbing alcohol as a final step. <S> Allow to dry again. <S> Do not directly touch the braking surface again after doing this. <S> I've found rubbing alcohol works well for rotors and the surface of pads because it cuts small amounts of grease nicely (e.g. the tiny bit left over after the above soapy water process), and evaporates very quickly (hence the cold fealing you get when you spill it on your hands), and leaves no residue after evaporating. <S> It's also nice & cheap, and readily available at all pharmacies and most grocery stores. <S> However, it's not magic: the oil contamination in the porous pads probably can't be reliably cleaned out without BBQ'ing them per filimonic's answer above. <S> Addendum: <S> If you're REALLY hell bent on keeping the current rotors and the above process doesn't work, you can investigate the method colloquially known as Disco Inferno in which you cover them in rubbing alcohol or some other flammable item that leaves little residue after burning, and light them on fire, burning off the contaminants. <S> Proceed with caution. <A> My solution ended up being sanding rotors lightly and cleaning them <S> well wth automotive brake cleaner. <S> For the pads What ended up working was sanding them down well past the pitting that occurred and wiping them off with isopropyl alcohol. <S> After breaking in the brakes worked much better although not as great as before. <S> New pads (and maybe rotors) may be necessary for a complete fix but for now the brakes are satisfactory
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Per the comments above, the old rotors you wiped down may be contaminating the new pads or vice versa.
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Is a name sticker with my name enough to prove a bike is mine if it gets stolen? Apart from the fact that stickers can be removed (as thats not the point of my question) would if my bike got stolen and i found it, would a sticker with my name on the frame be enough to prove that the bike is mine? Thanks. <Q> It may be better than nothing, but <S> no. <S> There are free registries online that you can use to register your bike's serial number. <S> The shop where I purchased mine set me up as a part of the purchase. <S> Some home/renter's insurance policies require you to have pictures of the bike along with the registration. <S> Pictures with a datestamp could help prove how long you have had the bike. <A> I am not a lawyer, but I believe the only thing proving ownership is going to be a receipt or bill of sale. <S> When I sell a bicycle to someone else, I usually write a short "To whom it may concern" letter saying that I sold the bike and how much I was paid. <S> I include the serial number and brand of the bike. <S> If you're buying a bike from someone else, draft up something like that and ask him/her to sign it, and ditto if it's a gift. <S> There's no guarantee this would be sufficient if you buy a bike that was stolen from someone else, but it could make your life easier if that turns out to be the case. <S> As for recovering the bike, a sticker is easily removable. <S> Engraving is better, but I don't know if it can be safely done on composite frames, and it makes the bike less desirable if you want to sell it to someone else. <S> I've taken to writing my name, phone number, and a reward offer on the rim tape, on the hypothesis that a mechanic who is changing a tire might see it and notice that the name on the wheel doesn't match the name on the repair ticket. <S> My reward offer includes the promise that I will buy the mechanic a beer just for making the call to check. <S> There are also bike registration services. <A> In France, we have Bicycode ( https://www.bicycode.org ). <S> What they do is that they engrave your frame with some sort a serial number. <S> It's considered irreversible because attempt at erasing it would likely damage the frame. <S> There is a contre-indication for carbon or titanium frames (but if it's a alu or steel composite you can certainly engrave on the metal part). <S> Then once it's tagged, the bike is entered into a national database along with your infos (so basically you enter a VIN registry but for bikes). <S> If you want to sell you bike, you will then just need to transfer the ownership and if it's stolen you can report to the authorities in order to put you bike on some blacklist which should render it "more difficult" to sell <S> (it's juste like cars, you'll always find shady people). <S> But the good thing is that if your bike is found you should normally be contacted. <S> So it's like with your antitheft, it's not perfect but that could incite the thief to go for the next bike rather than yours. <S> Maybe there is some sort of equivalent in your neighborhood <S> , it's worth a search (in my town <S> it cost 2euros). <A> No, a sticker on its own proves nothing: there's nothing to stop you walking down the street, putting a sticker on the nicest bike you see and claiming that it was stolen from you. <S> However, a sticker would suggest that the claim the bike was yours isn't completely ridiculous, especially if the sticker obviously wasn't put on the bike two minutes ago. <S> It would provide some indication that the bike you'd found was potentially your stolen bike, rather than just another bike with the same brand and colour. <S> Of course, a thief would be likely to remove the sticker. <A> A sticker with your name on would do little. <S> A sticker with a unique ID tied to a database entry that's searched by police if they recover a bike is another matter. <S> Two of my bikes are marked using kits from bikeregister (UK) (the third is registered but isn't worth much more than the marking kit, so I didn't buy the kit). <S> The registration on the database includes the serial number etc. <S> Of those two, one was marked for free. <S> The police around here occasionally do this outside the major stations.
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But to actually prove the bike was yours, you'd need more evidence such as purchase receipts or information about the bike that you'd provided to your insurer. Police departments used to do it, but there are fewer that do, and registration doesn't really prove ownership unless you are required to provide proof of ownership when you register.
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How to find key values of a chain? My chain says "Z KMC 3C-2 RB" which I suppose refers to as 'Z8 RB 1/2" x 3/32"'? The bike shop where I have bought from until now doesn't have this exact model. So what are the key properties of the chain, so I ca buy another brand? I want to get the best possible quality if possible. Update It is a 7 speed. <Q> Update: Based on your other question: Possible to identify sprocket without taking the bike apart? <S> - you have a Nexus internally geared hub, which would mean you may need a single speed chain. <S> For derailleur gear equipped bicycles <S> you just need to get a chain compatible with the number of gears ('speeds') on the rear sprocket cassette. <S> More gears require a chain with a narrower outer width because the sprockets are closer together. <S> Generally speaking derailleur chains are available in 6, 7 and 8 speeds; 9 speeds; 10 speeds and 11 speeds. <S> Just for completeness and to address the 1/2" x 3/32" measurements on your current chain: <S> All bicycle chains have 0.5 inch pitch <S> (distance between center of the pins) <S> (Single speed chains use a wider 1⁄8 inch inner width.) <A> "I want to get the best possible quality if possible." <S> All 1/8" or 3/32" wide chains will work and last about equally-well. <S> Take the mass market leader, KMC, and its mainstay single speed chain. <S> Very inexpensive and in a wide range of colors <S> The lasting quality of a singlespeed chain is not likely to vary much by make because for practical manufacturing purposes chains are made of more or less soft steel. <S> The silica dust that swirls into the chain incorporates with the lubricant to make a fine lapping compound. <S> Soft steel will lap away somewhat faster than hardened steel. <S> Oil a new chain. <S> Run it a short while. <S> Wipe. <S> The gray color on the rag is the color of wear particles of steel. <S> The wear results in chain "stretch" entirely at the rivets and the inner plates that flex on the rivets. <S> The rollers wear on their bushings, too, but do not contribute to chain stretch at all. <S> That is, the only degradation which matters is the wear of the rivets and side plates because that ever-increasing slop alters the pitch of the chain. <S> Side plates can be hardened, sure, but rivets, less-so, because then they cannot be riveted very well. <S> And running in the presence of fine silica grit these small and highly pressured parts will grind-away regardless of their relative hardness. <S> Point: for six dollars <S> , a new basic quality KMC chain is easy to swap in and it has the easiest to apply and remove master link around. <S> Z chain is liable to last as well as any more expensive chain you may buy. <A> 7 speed is enough information. <S> All bicycle chains share the 1/2 inch pitch (with one extremely rare exception) and derailleur chains for same number of speeds are very close to same width.
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All chains for derailleur gear equipped bicycles measure 3⁄32 inch between the inner plates.
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Croozer hitch -- axle quick release lever on the left? The croozer manual states that to mount the axle hitch [with the hitch on the left/non-drive side and the quick release axle skewer oriented such that the quick release is on the right/drive side]: The quick-release lever must be positioned on the right side of the bicycle (relative to the direction of travel). If the lever is on the left side, the quick-release skewer must be removed and reinserted from the right side I'm not sure I want to put the QR on the cassette side though :/ . Does anyone know why they want the QR on the right here? <Q> This is about adding a hitch for a bike trailer. <S> I can see why the company recommends to have the quick release on the right (cassette) side, whereas it is usually on the left. <S> The hitch mechanism needs room and is often secured with an additional strap. <A> I tried mounting the hitch on the non-drive side, and the problem was that the hitch itself is slightly in the way of the quick release lever <S> so I can't actually close the lever. <S> I now mounted it on the right side as recommended by the manual. <A> View from left hand side of bike, so trailer would be to the right of photo. <S> I have a 20" folder <S> and it has an inordinate amount of grit and dirt and dust from the chain. <S> So putting the QR on the drive side would expose the cam to a lot more contamination. <S> For my trailer, I mount the towball on the left-hand-side and have the QR pointing forward. <S> The safety cable goes around the main spar and back to the trailer draw-bar. <S> There's no way the QR could be opened by any part of the trailer - its more likely to catch a stick or some vines or grass. <S> So you do whatever works for you on your bike.
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By putting the quick release to the right, there is no danger of the hitch (and the strap) interacting with the quick release lever.
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Is it safe to wear a helmet without a plastic covering? A friend of mine gave me a foam bike helmet had the plastic covering removed from it. Besides for the plastic being removed, the helmet is in excellent condition. Is there any issues with using this helmet for riding locally as far as safety is concerned? I think the plastic cover was thin to begin with so I think it wouldn't make much of a difference. <Q> The foam protects the head from impacts by deforming. <S> The plastic cover obviously protects the foam from wear and aging. <S> However it also serves safety aspects in most helmets: <S> A good helmet has a smooth outer shape, preferably close to a ball, to allow it to slide over tarmac or other hard surfaces in an accident. <S> The hard and smooth plastic outer shell helps this by reducing friction and it prevents snagging. <S> A reason why we want the helmet to slide rather brake ones horizontal movement is to prevent rotational acceleration of the skull. <S> Due to its inertia the brain resist that acceleration. <S> This in turn exerts a force on the brain ( warning, oversimplification the brain is in large parts mechanically decoupled from the skull by a gap filled with fluid). <S> This so called rotational impact is thought to be an important contribution to concussion (cf Kleiven 2013 ). <A> One thing the plastic is designed to do (and for which it doesn't need to be thick) is to have low friction with the road. <S> So if you come off your head slides rather than snagging. <S> The friction that the plastic stops would injure your neck, and also lead to very fast abrasion of the foam,perhaps just in time for it to be destroyed before you hit something solid. <S> Even a fairly thin layer backed by foam also spreads the impact of a point over a larger area. <S> Flexible plastic does a very good job of holding the helmet together, so that it absorbs more energy if it splits and still has some use after the first hit (one crash can easily cause multiple head impacts) <A> You are correct that the impact protection comes from the foam. <S> Now that it is gone (which I doubt could be done without damage, most helmets are directly molded into the plastic), it will be easily damaged. <S> Fun fact: <S> Early non-racing helmets didn't have the plastic cover. <S> They generally didn't last long.
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The plastic covering is there to protect the foam from dents and gouges.
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Fitting a vibration-proof bell for drop bars I have a bike with drop bars which I need for commuting, but I live in a city which is not only full of idiots † both on foot and on bikes themselves (thus meaning going bellless is idiotic), but also full of broken paths and cobblestones. I've now lost two bells due to them vibrating enough to the point of coming apart — I try to screw them together after every few rides, but at some point they just come apart while riding and I lose the bits needed to put them back together: Issues Bell: Unfortunately, the screw head holding the whole thing together slowly becomes looser over time, making the bell function worse and worse and even becoming somehow "out of tune" making it not work well even when tightened with one hand while riding... and then when riding over lots of e.g. cobblestones, I hear it go ring-ring-ring while loose and then it stops ringing... forever. Screw head gone missing. Bike: I've got drop bars with old brake levers which can hardly be used at all from the hoods, meaning that I spend all my time in the drops and thus that the bell has to be accessible from the drops. How can I fit a bell to my bike which is durable enough to survive lots of vibration and yet still be easily accessible from the drops? † In this regard, possibly the only places in the world which can safely be called idiot-free are all in the Netherlands or Denmark. <Q> If your screw head is actually a nut, like the picture looks like, replace it with a nylock nut. <S> If that is not possible, thread lock fluid like blue Loctite works nicely. <A> I've never had one fail. <S> The screw that attaches it to the bar should stay tight but anyway can be tightened if it works loose. <S> The adjusting screw (if there is one) should have some friction. <A> If you are not happy with the loctite suggestions above, then you can try a different type of bell. <S> The Knog 'Oi' bell has a fundamentally different construction which doesn't rely on a the traditional bell dome. <S> It will not come loose. <S> However, it is expensive (for a bell) and you may feel it is too much for a bell. <A> If it's an old road bike I presume <S> it's 1" threaded. <S> Get a bell with a 22.2 clamp diameter and no other fasteners but the clamp. <S> Incredibell Brass Duet is one such. <S> Mount it on the quill and Loctite the threads. <S> You could also just use a bar end mount bell.
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The simple cheap design of bell that makes a single ping when the lever is flicked against its spring should be more robust.
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Charging eBike Battery with Solar I need some advice / info on solar charging an eBike battery. We have two RadRovers from Rad Power Bikes. They are powered with a Panasonic Dolphin 48V, 11.6Ah Lithium-Ion battery https://www.radpowerbikes.com/collections/replacement-parts/products/radrover-battery-pack . We are planing a road trip from the North West US down south and would like to extend the range of the bikes. The specs say that the range is between 20 and 40 miles depending on how you ride. We are planning on using the low pedal-assist setting as much as possible, so we should be able to get to 40 miles or above. We are bringing a second battery so we should be able to count on 70 to 80 miles a day. With that said, I’d like to rig up a solar set up to extend our range even further. Ideally, we’d have it set up so that the solar panel is plugged directly into the battery being used to extend the range. I have found these 100w folding solar panel that will work for us https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YP7X4F/ref=psdc_2236628011_t3_B01M28W7KR . We can attach this to the rear of the bike with a frame. However, the panel will be fixed in a flat horizontal position, and will not always be in direct sunlight, but it’ll still be better than nothing I figure. If we can get just a little extra boost in between plugging in for a recharge, its worth it. My question is, is it possible for us to plug directly into the battery that is currently powering the bike? If not I’ll just charge the spare battery while in transit, but the first option is preferred. Also, what additional equipment do I need to achieve this? I know I need a controller, but I am not familiar with how this works exactly. A link to an ideal controller would be much appreciated. Finally, if I then want to change the solar charger over to this laptop battery to charge it on occasion https://www.voltaicsystems.com/v72 , would this same controller be used? How would this work. I really appreciate any advice and info you can give us. <Q> A 100 watt solar panel is nominal watts under ideal situations. <S> You'll be lucky to get <S> 25 watts/hr tied to the back of your bike - and this would be only for a few hours of the day, from 11a to 3p. <S> Given that your bike is likely using at least 100-200 watts/hr even on low pedal assist, you're only going to gain 5-10% more range over the entire day. <S> From experience, even with low pedal assist, its highly unlikely you'll get anywhere near the maximum (or even middle) <S> advertised range of the ebike. <S> There is a further complication that your battery management system won't allow you to charge while biking. <S> Many if not most don't. <S> If you overcharge or overvolt, a poorly design lithium pack can go up in flames. <S> It'd be much easier and safer logistically to just bring another spare battery pack or two. <S> I assume you'll be pulling trailers and as a result your mileage will be even further reduced but it means you can carry more. <S> Just load up your trailer with spare packs and bring multiple chargers. <S> Forget solar, it's not worth the hassle. <S> The one exception would be to use solar to charge your iPhone/iPad and other electronic devices -- it's relatively easy to find small solar chargers that have USB leads. <A> Those are 48V batteries, which you want to charge with a 12V (nominal) solar panel. <S> That's not going to work directly. <S> So we look for an indirect solution. <S> At the very least some form of boost convertor would be required. <S> I won't go into details as we're now on bicycles.se not electronics. <S> But designing a charger for lithium batteries isn't for the uninitiated as a significant failure mode <S> involves flames and not easy ones to put out. <S> Therefore unless the manufacturer makes a 12V input charge we're still not getting very far. <S> The solution that could work would be a 12V solar panel, connected to an inverter, feeding the original mains-powered charger (or the laptop charger <S> but that's another issue). <S> I'll assume for the moment that the input voltage of the inverter is forgiving (some will run on anything from 12V nominal to 24V nominal without a break). <S> You'll need the solar panel to put out enough power in real use to enable the inverter to work properly. <S> That means some margin over the input power requirement of the charger. <S> Test it <S> A 100W solar panel is rather large. <S> If you're riding during the day, then to catch much sun you'll need to ride with the panel, as you've spotted. <S> That means extra drag and extra exposure to catching the wind. <S> But if you're towing a trailer anyway and use the solar panel on top, this is less of an issue. <S> The control electronics might not like it. <S> The e-bike <S> I'm familiar with specifies that the main switch should be turned off before charging, to avoid damage. <A> All great responses above, particularly regarding the true efficiency of charging the batteries via solar. <S> In an ideal world, this would be so effin cool, to theoretically ride across the country without ever plugging in. <S> I have a 1400w Li-ion solar generator from goal zero and fabricated a trailer to tow behind my Radwagon. <S> I intend on getting an extra Rad battery to go a little further. <S> To start with, the battery must be turned off in order to charge. <S> So you could charge a second one while riding, however <S> , the problem is that the charge rate is not equal to the depletion rate... <S> in other words, you will deplete one battery, replace it with the second and then plug in the first while riding on the second charge. <S> By the time you have depleted the second battery (30 miles or roughly one hour, at best), the first would not be anywhere close to completely charged. <S> Diminishing returns... <S> You could possibly get away with it using 4 or 5 extra batteries, keeping them in rotation, but at that point, your weight would be significant. <S> You'd be better off bringing 1 or 2 extra batteries and plan your trip around 50-80 mile increments, stopping for the night and recharging. <S> Enjoy the ride, and also enjoy the scenery :)
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I also wouldn't advise charging the battery while it's in use. So you can only charge the spare pack and you'll have to figure out how to convert the solar panel to the right D.C. voltage and amperage for your charger.
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How do I best clean the cog wheels? Would it be best to take it off first then soak it in soap, or should I use petrol to get the grease off first? <Q> You don't need to take the cassette (cogs) off to clean it. <S> Use a citrus degreaser fluid. <S> Clean the chain and chainrings at the same time. <S> You can use a rag pulled taut to get between the cogs, or there are a number of specialized cassette and chain cleaning tools available. <S> There are many instructional videos out there with tips on cassette and chain cleaning also. <A> I remove the chain and cassette, drop them in a wide-mouthed jar, cover with Simple Green (a non-toxic cleaner, possibly not available where you are), and let it sit for a few hours, agitating occasionally. <S> Then rinse, let dry, and re-lube the chain. <A> Same as the others - I leave it on the bike to clean. <S> I use a combination of an old screwdriver to break up and pick off any compacted dirt from between cogs. <S> Too much of that and <S> the chain doesn't sit right. <S> Then I use a cassette cleaning brush tool to brush off the loose and powdery dirt. <S> Last is a wipe with an old rag to restore some shine to the sides of the cassette, but I don't degrease it. <S> The chain I clean in a similar way <S> - I pick off larger blobs of dirt that live on the outside of the inner plates. <S> Then I use a chain cleaning machine with degreaser in it, either turps or proper fluid. <S> Petrol tends to upset the tool's plastic. <S> Then I let that dry, and apply a wet or dry lube after an hour or so. <A> I've found out that those cotton strings or ropes from paper shopping bags are a rather practical tool for cleaning cassettes. <S> Remove the wheel, sit down and put it against your shins, cassette facing away. <S> Then engage one of these strings between two cogs and move it left/right/left/right. <S> The freewheel helps and for increased efficiency the string can be soaked with detergent or solvent. <S> It may be washed and re-used quite a number of times. <A> You don't need to take the cassette off the bike. <S> Spray/squirt a concentrated degreaser and use cloth strips (I recommend 1 inch wide and 3 inch long) to get in between the cogs, clean them nicely and free the surface of all the tough muck. <S> Better yet, if you've got a specialized cassette cleaning claw, give it a go: they work pretty well. <S> Hope this helps you. <A> Depends on what is meant by "best". <S> The most thorough approach would be to remove the cassette from the wheel and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner. <S> Probably excessive. <S> Second best it to remove the cassette and use a mild solvent (e.g. WD40) and a rag to clean the sprockets. <S> This is a good time to examine sprockets for cog wear (the smaller ones in particular). <S> Whatever you do, do not flood a mounted cassette with solvent. <S> You might inadvertently remove lubricant from the freehub and/or wheel hub. <S> I personally remove, clean and examine my cassette once a year. <S> If your chain is well maintained you are unlikely to have to clean your cassette more frequently. <A> I personally do a full bike overhaul every six months, though I absolutely torture my road bike doing off-roading on places I wouldn't even put a mountain bike.... <S> My chain is cleaned thoroughly after every ride, and then stored in a small vat of chain oil to keep it from rusting. <S> (Bad practice, I know, <S> but I'm lazy and like to make sure the chain is ready for every ride. <S> Pull it out, attach it, run it through the cogs a couple of times and then wipe off the excess oil from the chain and cogs and derailleur before the ride.) <S> I'd first remove the wheel, get my cassette lock-ring removal tool and a chain whip and remove the cassette, taking a note of all the positions of the rings. <S> Then, on my cassette, there are little holes that were probably put in for weight reduction; I'd nail each cog onto a big board of ply-board, soak in a strong degreaser and agitate with a brass wire brush, then pressure-washing off everything, then repeat on the other side. <S> (As I said, this bike is tortured, and as such, everything needs a very heavy cleaning...) <S> The free-hub itself <S> I would also replace, too. <S> Every year or so, I replace my chain, chain-rings and cassette, bottom bracket, headset and hub axles/bearings. <S> I personally disagree with using a degreaser on the cassette whilst it's still on the wheel as the degreaser can get into the wheel hub, and much worse, into the free-hub mechanism itself. <S> A more basic way would be to just remove the cassette, degrease it in a plastic tub and leave it to soak for a couple of minutes then brush off with a plastic brush, rinse off and then re-assemble. <S> Place your (I'm assuming) freshly-cleaned chain back on, lubricate the chain and then ride on! <S> If possible, avoid getting oil on the chainrings; only the insides of the chain need lubrication. <S> There is no extreme heat happening on the chain and cassette, so lubrication is not a requirement, and if anything, would hinder the efficiency of your chain by something hilarious like 0.0005 percent because of the layer of oil there. <S> A pathetic number, but another good reason is it'll turn any road dust and brake dust into a grinding paste for your chain.
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If you've got the tools (chain whip, lockring tool, wrench), it is easier and more thorough to remove the cassette and soak it in a degreaser than it is to clean it in situ. It is also possible to clean in situ with a wipe, a rag or some kind of floss.
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Is it safe to cut off from the inside of my helmet? Having a rather "pointy" head (think of something like Patrick Stewart's head ), all bicycle helmets I've every tried on tend to have contact with only one point at the top of my head. Now my idea was to cut a little bit away from that rigid foam at that location. Let's say 1-2 millimeters at the size of a dime. My local bike dealer told me that the whole helmet has a fine-tuned structure that completely breaks down when removing even the slightest piece of rigid foam, no matter how small. While this sounds strange to me, I'm confused right now. Therefore my question is: Does a bicycle helmet still has protection when slicing some 1-2 mm from the inner rigid foam at a size of a 1-2 cm circle? (I'm from Germany, in case this matters; maybe our helmets here are different) <Q> Unbeknownst to many consumers, different helmet manufacturers use different molds for their helmets. <S> Just like some shoe brands are known to be thinner or wider than other brands, some helmets are more oval, some more round, and some pointier. <S> Even from the same manufacturer, their racing models might be different from MTB, skateboarding type, and general lines. <S> And there might be a helmet with a vent hole in exactly the right place out there. <S> It's important to find a helmet that fits correctly and comfortable. <S> That being said, through, if it were my head and I had to decide between a helmet that was partially shaved to fit -- or a larger helmet with some extra padding to fit; I would choose the latter. <S> The helmet manufacturers provide extra padding pads of varying thickness in the box because they know they can't produce a helmet that fits perfectly on everyone's head. <S> As long as the helmet is snug on your head and not uncomfortable, you should be good to go. <S> Remember that many cyclists wear beanies in the winter and cycling caps in the summer under their helmets -- something that is well known to the helmet manufacturers. <S> Remember the worst helmet is the helmet you don't wear. <A> Does a bicycle helmet still has protection when slicing some 1-2 mm from the inner rigid foam at a size of a 1-2 cm circle? <S> You don't know. <S> It's as simple as that. <S> The amount of material you're talking about removing is a tiny fraction of the helmet's overall volume but you simply don't know what effect that will have. <S> You have no way of knowing if the material you're removing had some structural purpose. <S> You have no way of knowing how badly you're damaging material around it. <S> You have no way of knowing how the helmet will behave after alteration. <S> Some analogous examples. <S> If you're careful, you can stack a few bricks on top of an empty coke can. <S> But deform the can slightly and it'll be instantly crushed. <S> The inside of your helmet is a smooth curve but it stops being smooth when you remove some material. <S> Aircraft have rounded window corners. <S> Squaring off those corners would only remove a tiny percentage of the aircraft's hull but it would cause stresses to concentrate at the corners leading to planes breaking up in flight . <A> The main function of a helmet is to absorb energy during an impact, I you think about it, the material that is between your head and the object being impacted, is compressed or crushed during the impact. <S> In that regard, the more material there is to compress/crush, the more energy can be absorbed before it is too much for your skull to handle. <S> This crushing also diminishes the deceleration for your head, thus preventing your brain from hitting the inside of your skull too hard. <S> In the same line, the more material there is in the helmet, the more time to decelerate your head. <S> Another function of the helmet is to spread the load over a greater area. <S> For example if a rigid flat object hits your head, only a tiny "contact patch" of your head takes the whole impact. <S> With a helmet, the impact is spread over all the areas of contact between the helmet and the head (in the direction of the impact, of course). <S> For this function the helmet depends on it's structural integrity. <S> In the case of a vented helmet, the material is similar to beams or trusses of a construction. <S> If you shave part of those, you are weakening the structure, thus a softer impact will be able to deform or break it. <S> So, it is a terrible idea to remove material from a helmet. <A> This is a touchy issue. <S> In general, unless the helmet is one that was very precisely designed for the lightest possible weight and the smallest dimensions, you should be able to cut away about 1/4 of the thickness of the liner in a small area without seriously reducing protection. <S> It could be a bit tricky to do this over a larger area without endangering the integrity of the liner, however, from the standpoint of it fragmenting in an accident. <S> Probably better is a slightly oversize helmet with additional padding added. <S> But one must be careful to use appropriate padding material -- <S> not too hard, not too soft. <S> A too-hard liner would transfer too much stress to the skull, while a too-soft liner would allow the head to "bang" against the real liner in an accident. <S> And an added liner is apt to reduce ventilation and make the helmet less comfortable. <S> It's not really rocket science, but you have to have some understanding of the forces involved and how a bike helmet works.
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The thinned part is more flexible, which could affect the whole helmet's behaviour under the load of your head hitting the deck. You don't know what effects removing your tiny fraction of material will have. It might take having to go to different stores and trying different brands and types (or even to a store in a different country, if you have the opportunity).
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What are the benefits of cycling gloves? So cycling gloves? I don't see how this can change my experience of riding bicycles. Someone please explain what benefits I get from them. Maybe I would buy some if the benefits are good enough. <Q> All sorts of reasons: <S> Less damage to your hands when you fall off. <S> Vibration dampening. <S> Somewhere to wipe snot/sweat. <S> In practice, I use them when I am touring (long distances in the saddle - so reason 2 above), and when I am mountain-cycling competitively (reasons 1 and 3), but don't wear them when I am on my daily commute. <A> Additional points to Penguino's answer <S> Its scary to reach for the brakes on a downhill and find your fingers aren't reacting very fast. <S> I have long arms, so my shirt sleeves never reach the gloves, so I wear some wrist wraps to seal the gap too. <S> Visibility - when you're signalling with your arms, it can be hard for drivers to see you. <S> Gloves often have reflectorised strips to help show where you are indicating at night. <S> More so if you're wearing a black top. <S> Grip as per comments. <S> Some glove and bartape combinations work really well, some don't. <S> Sun protection - I'm a pasty computer geek, I burn on cloudy days. <S> Gloves help protect my skin from solar damage. <A> Gloves are pretty handy. <S> First of all, they offer better grip with the handlebar, without causing skin loosening or similar symptoms. <S> Secondly, they help avoid scratches and injuries in case of fall or passing through trails with thick bushes (mtb). <S> They are also a good piece of fabric to absorb sweat and clean your googles. <S> Last, but not least, they might be great when theres cold/wind/rain.
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Warmth - Even on a summer's day some light gloves help keep your fingers limber.
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Replacing bolt and nut I want to change my bolt because it is rusty. I am concerned that something bad will happen if I remove the bolt completely. Can someone please tell me if it is okay to remove this bolt completely? There are three bolts in the picture and all are rusty. Your quick answer would be helpful to me. <Q> From the picture that seems to be the brake lever clamp. <S> Make sure to note the position of the lever in case it moves or falls off when the bolt is removed. <S> You can then position it properly when you re-install the bolt. <A> That is surface rust. <S> You can remove the bolt and clean it off using sandpaper and then a rust fixer like "rustbuster" and then paint it to keep the rust away. <S> I find grey primer spray paint works well enough once hardened. <S> Never had much luck with chrome-paints though. <S> You should apply some penetrating oil before undoing the bolt, and make sure your hex tool is well-seated in the bolt before applying leverage. <S> There are three bolts pictured the smaller one at the top of the photo is part of the lock-on clamp holding the grip in place. <S> It can be removed, there is likely no nut because it threads into the clamp. <S> There will be a matching bolt at the outboard side of the grip too. <S> The big bolt closest to the middle of the photo is probably holding your brake lever to the bars. <S> It can be undone completely. <S> There is a medium chance of having a nut on the other side, so don't loose it. <S> The bolt at the bottom of the photo will be holding your gear levers in place. <S> Same as for the brake lever, this can be undone completely and some chance of a nut. <S> Without these bolts in place <S> you should not ride the bike until they are replaced. <S> Your brake lever and gear pod will slide around the bars and would be unsafe to ride. <S> If you need to ride your bike to the shop, take some tools and undo the bolt once you get there. <S> Fit the new or refit the old one before you ride home. <S> Be mindful of the angles when you refit a bolt, and make sure the tool is well-seated in the socket before applying torque. <A> If you want to replace it, just remove the bolt, take it to a hardware store or your local bike shop and find something of the same size. <S> Nothing bad will happen if you remove it.
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The bolt can be removed, cleaned or replaced and reinstalled with no problems.
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Why do e-bikes need dedicated tires? While shopping for new tires on my bike, I saw that some dealers had a specific section for e-bike tires, where the various brands production for e-bikes was present. Why do e-bikes need dedicated tires? <Q> They don't need them <S> but they are good to have. <S> I have an e-bike that I use as a daily commuter. <S> Here are my thoughts: E-bikes are heavier than regular bikes and put considerably more power out at the rear wheel (my motor has 350 watts, I add maybe 60-80 watts at most) compared to a regular bike which only has 80 watts alone. <S> if you have an ebike with a rear hub motor, that’s a considerable amount of unsprung weight at the rear. <S> It’s much harder to hop curbs and potholes with an ebike <S> so it’s getting whacked much harder E-bikes travel at much higher average speeds than regular commuter bikes. <S> I average 30km/h with peaks of 40km/h which is the electronic assist speed limit. <S> More importantly, I don't make any attempt to conserve inertia as I do with a regular bike, so I stop at all the stop signs and traffic lights. <S> Thus, there's a lot of braking and acceleration that I do that is hard on the bike and its wheels. <S> Finally, the rear tire needs to be sturdy as it is getting more wear and also taking bigger hits on bumps at higher speeds than a standard tire. <S> All in all, I'm still on the original tire which is a regular tire. <S> I'm on the tail end of its lifetime which has only been about 1/3 that of a regular tire. <S> I will replace it either with a beefy "regular" tire or go with one from an e-bike line. <S> I think the actual difference between the two (beefy regular or touring and a e-bike tire) will in reality be minimal. <S> Update <S> 2018.7: <S> I ended up replacing my rear tire ahead of schedule due to a sidewalk blowout. <S> I’m not actually sure if it was natural wear or if the bike was shivved by a thief. <S> Replaced with a tire from an ebike tire line. <S> TL;DR <S> : Ebikes require a strong, hard-wearing, high speed, puncture resistant tire. <S> These are also roughly the same requirements as touring tires so some vendors are labeling their touring tires as "ebike ready." <A> According to Schwalbe at https://www.schwalbe.com/gb/e-bike.html <S> For standard pedelecs with pedal assistance <S> up to 25 km/h no specific tyres are stipulated by the legislators. <S> But the loads and average speeds of these bicycles are also higher than in the case of normal bicycles. <S> We therefore recommend only certain tyres as “E-Bike Ready 25”. <S> Primarily, these are the tyres of the Marathon and Energizer series as well as the comfort tyres Big Apple and Big Ben. <S> I call BS on this. <S> 25km/h is not a high speed, nor is the extra weight significant compared to the weight of the rider. <S> Compare this to touring bikes. <S> A touring bike will generally be expected to ride at this speed (less than 16mph) and the luggage will exceed the weight of a motor and battery - but nobody makes touring bike tyres that are made due to the expected "high speed". <A> In brief - "sales and marketing" Changing tubes/tyres on an ebike can be more awkward, especially on the powered wheel, plus ebikes tend to attract less "mechanical" riders than regular bikes, being a gateway ride. <S> They won't be cheap either, because ebikes aren't. <A> A regular bicycle tire can be just as sturdy and last just as long under more stress by a regular rider. <S> The joke I have heard among cyclists involve a newcomer to a bike race such as RAGBRAI with an electric bike who inevitably falls behind (and is surprised by this) because regular cyclists (not even pros, just people who ride daily and are serious about cycling) can frequently output more watts on a consistent bike than the legal limits of an electric bike, or at least outperform on stretches where the electric has trouble and falls behind. <S> So, an e-bike may or may not need "dedicated" tires. <S> But... eBikes are not marketed towards people who are interested in putting in a lot of exertion in their ride. <S> Those people don't need electric assist. <S> While the question does not say what "dedicated" means, there are a couple of possibilities. <S> One is that, being marketed towards people who are more interested in getting from point A to point B economically which a bit of fitness thrown in on the side, it can make sense to sell "niche" or "proprietary" tires which are optimized towards that goal. <S> These tires can be cheaper to make, at the expense of the second point, weight. <S> But the rider can easily tolerate this since the bicycle is motor assisted. <S> Because of this trade-off a heavier tire can also be made tougher to last longer to match the target market of people who don't want to be on the side of the road changing a tire. <A> I ride a regular bike (Trek Fx7.2) and an eBike (Giant Quick E+) in casual fashion (ie not superfit or above average). <S> The Giant weighs about 10kg more than the Trek, but since riders vary over 20kg it can't be a weight issue. <S> The Giant is limited to 25km/h assistance which means I very rarely get over 30km/h <S> (Weight/motor/big tyres makes it difficult), whereas I can cruise at 30km/h+ on the Trek (for limited amounts of time on the flats). <S> So it can't be a speed thing either. <S> Based on this I think it's just a marketing gimmick. <S> Tyres are either built for durability (slower, heavier, more puncture resistant, long lasting) or performance (fast, light, easily punctured, limited life). <S> I can't see how an electric motor changes any of that.
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So an ebike tyre will be a marketing term for higher puncture resistance and lower rolling resistance, and probably in the wider sizes to cope with the extra weight.
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Can a road bike stand constant 40km/h for long distances? I am planning on converting my road bike into an electrical one and I can see that I can get average speeds of 35-40kmh. So I am planning on biking long distances at this average speed. Is it safe to do it? What can fail at such high speeds in long run, considering different types of asphalt quality. I know that it depends on the bike manufacturer, but can a generic failure be anticipated? <Q> Stopping distance is definitely something to be aware of. <S> As speed increases, the distance needed to stop increases non-linearly . <S> For illustration, in cars, with 1 sec reaction time: 20 km/h = 8m <S> 30 km/h = 13m (50% increase in speed, 63% increase in distance) <S> (Source: http://www.nzci.co.nz/tools-calculators/stopping-distances.html ) <S> In other words, it may feel safer than it really is. <A> Yes - the bike can stand higher speeds fine. <S> Generally. <S> wear is caused by distance travelled, not the speed it travels. <S> You might suffer increased wear through increased vibration but this would be very hard to measure and is likely quite small. <S> On the other hand you might suffer increased damage through accident or sudden pothole, which would have been more avoidable at a lower speed. <S> Additionally, your bike's braking distance will be increased as velocity increases. <S> So your electric bike requires more defensive riding, anticipation and prediction of what will or could happen. <S> Consider replacing brake pads with really good ones (like kool stop) and consider your tyre tread too. <S> I rarely mention head protection on SE, but do consider that your momentum is increased by riding an electric assisted bike. <S> That energy has to go somewhere if things go badly, best not through your head. <A> As you may know kinetic energy is ½mv² where m is mass, v is velocity. <S> You have more mass on the bike with the addition of motor and batteries. <S> A bigger concern is that energy increases with velocity squared . <S> For 100 Kgs of bike, motor, batteries and rider: <S> 10 <S> Km/h: <S> 0.4 <S> Kj 20 Km/h: 1.5 <S> Kj 30 Km/h: <S> 3.5 Kj 40 Km/h: 6.2 Kj Note that going from 30 to 40 Km/h almost doubles the kinetic energy. <S> The two things I would be concerned about that have to absorb energy are brakes and wheels. <S> Brakes obviously have to absorb all the kinetic energy when you need to stop. <S> There are concerns about stopping distance as noted by others. <S> The wear on pads rotors or rims will also be increased. <S> You will also have think about the heat capacity of the brakes. <S> Is repeated stopping from your max speed going to overheat the brakes? <S> You don't say if you have disc or rim brakes. <S> I personally think I would not have enough confidence in rim brakes for this application. <S> I'd want to fit the beefiest disc brakes possible, preferably a set intended for a downhill mountain bike. <S> If you have a set of skinny rims with a low spoke count, I'd be looking to upgrade to something strong with a high spoke count (which you would actually need to support strong brakes also).
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Also make sure your conversion has a brake sensor cutoff, you wouldn't want your braking distance increasing because the motor is pushing while you're frantically trying to stop. The wheels are going to take more punishment as they roll over bumps at higher speeds.
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Training wheels for adults I'm new and just found this site and look forward to being able to contribute where appropriate. I am a stroke survivor and trying to do my best to stay in shape despite my limitations. I want to return to cycling, but only have the use of one hand, so a conventional bike is not an option. Recumbent bikes are of interest to me. I recently purchased one and had it modified to allow operation with only the one hand that works. All seemed fine until I tried to start riding once again. Even though both my legs work somewhat normally, there is some remaining weakness I have to deal with. Due to this weakness I've had a very hard time getting started on the bike. My balance is not what it used to be,so getting both feet onto the pedals to get started is turning into a big issue for me. If I have help by someone holding the bike steady while getting started, I have no issues after that and enjoy the exercise greatly. This is not practical since I may not always have help getting started each time. So, if was suggested that training wheels might be what I need. Has anyone ever heard of or seen training wheels on a full size bike used by an adult? Or does anyone see any reason why training wheels would not work for me? fyi, I have located heavy duty training wheels on Amazon, but before I order them, I thought I'd ask if there might be issues I've overlooked. Any help will be appreciated!Thanks to all in advance! <Q> This sounds like a really bad idea. <S> Training wheels limit your ability to lean into a turn. <S> So you would need training wheels that retract when you get above ~5 mph, and deploy below that speed. <S> Apparently something like this does exist for motorcycles, but I've never heard of anything like it for bicycles. <S> The alternative would be to ride a trike. <A> They definitely exist for bicycles. <S> I work for a distributor that stocks them, they are referred to as adult stabilizers. <S> They only thing <S> i'm not sure of <S> is how compatible they are with recumbents. <S> I realize a new ride can be quite expensive though, the adult stabilizers are also a bit pricey however. <S> The MSRP on the ones we carry is over $200 but that is because they are heavy duty and hold up to 300lbs. <S> I was going to write this as a comment <S> but it became lengthy <S> and i thought an image may be helpful in deciding whether or not something like these could be attached to your recumbent. <S> As you can see, this type attaches at the seat/chain stays and possibly the axle, i am not overly familiar with them and have not personally installed any but mounting them on a recumbent could be tricky. <A> You can also opt for the 3 wheels cycle (or tricycles). <S> Being made on purpose <S> I think they can be more sturdy than added wheels. <A> Halfway between Nate and Dutch's answers, you can buy a trike conversion kit. <S> I've never used one, so can't comment on their effectiveness. <S> Note the unit bolts to the rear chainstays and replaces the rear wheel completely. <S> You end up with a wide axle in the same place as your rear wheel, but this kit has a stub chain <S> so it probably only has one driven wheel. <S> Other kits offer band brakes for the rear, or disk brakes at the rear. <S> Some kits give you a differential, making turning easier. <S> Not sure if this is useful or a gimmick. <S> I'm not making a particular recommendation for a supplier. <A> For setting off on Recumbent bikes, you can use your hand on the floor to hold yourself up. <S> May I confirm you're changing gears and setting off in a low gear, working your way up through said gears? <S> If not, that could seriously inhibit your setting off; <S> The faster you accelerate, typically, the more stable your set-off. <S> With recumbent bikes, I highly doubt that training wheels would work well at all, let alone FIT the bike. <S> If you have a Recumbent bike, make sure you set the gear limiters and indexing very, very accurate as you'll find yourself using the gears A LOT if you're fluent enough with the gear-to-speed ratio, so-to-speak. <S> If you take that stand and a little dolly with you to a garage and ask if they'd be able to weld something up for a fee, they'll most likely hook you up, and then you can attach that to the frame, come to a stop and lower the stand ready for when you set off, pulling it up when you've reached a 'stable' speed. <S> Tried this on a bike with a trailer that I had welded up to pull/carry 300KG, which was ridiculous, and it had an electric-assist motor for going uphill! <S> This stabiliser technique may just work for you, though it might be a bit of a pain to get this idea to fruition. <S> I hope you enjoy your Recumbent, ever since I made the jump to road bikes, I missed the increased raw power output, acceleration and speed that you just can't get on an upright bike, heheh. <A> Would a two-legged kickstand help at all? <S> In theory you could mount the bike with it on the stand, and then pedal off and the stand folds up under spring pressure. <S> Your recumbent may not have anywhere it can fit. <S> You could also hold a short prop/cane or walking stick in your side bag and use that as a third leg when stopped or getting going. <S> Downside its another thing to deal with while riding and you only have the one hand which is needed for steering and braking. <S> A tadpole or delta trike sounds like your best answer. <A> Training wheels serve a very specific purpose on a child's bike. <S> They are designed to keep a child upright and prevent them from tipping. <S> However, they are also designed to ride off the ground when the bike is upright and to be slowly raised as the child's skill level improves until they are no longer needed. <S> If you expect to regain strength and function (this is something you and your doctor should be able to discuss), then training wheels may be appropriate as they will function in a similar manner as they do a child while you recover. <S> If such a recovery is not possible or is a very long term goal, you would likely be better served with a trike which is more stable and designed to be ridden on multiple wheels.
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If you're going fast enough to balance without the training wheels, you're going fast enough that you need to turn by leaning. One other thing to consider would be a recumbent trike or a tadpole trike which is just a recumbent with 3 wheels rather than two. One final note on a recumbent with stabilisers; If you buy a bike stand designed for mounting on the chain-stay, that attaches via clamp, you might be able to mount it to part of the frame.
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How can I extend my rear rack backwards? My pannier rack/carrier is not long enough and consequently, if I want to pedal with the tip of my feet, my heel touches my bike bags. I have seen that Basil sells a "carrier extender" (see there ), which is primarily aimed at using bags with children seats. I'm afraid that this carrier extender will go too far in length in the rear of my bike whether it's safe to do so. Does anyone know its dimensions? If you have other suggestions on how not to be disturbed by my bags, I will gladly hear them too. <Q> That phenomenon is called "Heel Strike" and its really annoying while riding. <S> I managed to extend my rear carrier rack. <S> The purpose was to line it with plastic to make a pseudo mudguard rather than add more pannier length. <S> Mine had a plastic part across the rear which popped off, so I used two convenient lengths of brass pipe to extend the side rails, and simply inference-fitted the whole lot back together. <S> Worked for my need, but did not move the carrier clamp backward at all. <S> Your other option is to extend the "arms" that fasten to the seat stays. <S> If they were longer, the whole rack would be moved backward. <S> Being more extended it will be wobblier though, with more leverage on the mountings. <S> However I think you should be looking at your Panniers first. <S> It probably has two clips at the top and a third centered and toward the bottom. <S> Something like this: The lowest clip goes near your rear dropout, which is a fixed location on the bike. <S> The two top clips are also somewhat fixed in they have to be evenly before and after the bottom clip, and share the load. <S> If you extend your carrier rack, it won't move your pannier unless you change the clip locations as well. <S> So the red one pictured above can be adjusted with screwdriver to move the hooks, or you might be looking at saddlebags that look something like these, which clip under the carrier's clamp and are held on by equal weights on both sides. <S> Other options could include to put stuff on your carrier rack, not beside it. <S> front-mounted basket for carrying items <S> small items can go in a saddle bag (dangles under the saddle, often used for tools/spares) diamond frame bag where the items sit inside your main triangle, in a cloth retainer. <S> (not always possible) <S> Bike jersey pockets - they generally have three large/oversized pockets for carrying stuff backpack - horrid things on a bike but universally available. <S> Bad in an accident. <S> Finally, consider not carrying the thing at all - I have a work computer and a home computer <S> and I do not move either one about. <S> Instead I use VPN over the internet to control one from the other, should the need arise. <A> I was faced with a similar problem, and was able to solve it that way. <A> In Russia, there is a special sport discipline "bike sport tourism" that includes travelling in urbanless areas for couple of days, without any possubility of communicating with anyone else except your group. <S> In this case, we wear special rack bags up to 120 liters, but mostly around 90 liters for 3+ days or 45 liters for weekend-tourism mode. <S> See PIK99 <S> site, this is an example of how it is done. <S> Note that it is very different to travel with about 25 additional kilagramms at your rear wheel, so be careful for the first time until you feel your bike with new weight mode. <S> So for the offroad travels, I recommend putting something like I described before. <S> For the asphalt-only, I would recommend putting bags on your front wheel mount or on a fork's legs
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Depending on your bags, rack, and the severity of the problem, you may be able to solve the problem by repositioning the mounting hooks on your panniers, without modifying your rack or getting new equipment.
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Can anyone help me identify this touring bike? I found this LL Bean Touring Bike on Facebook marketplace, the price looks pretty good and the owner said it was around 15 years old. I know that at some point, but not very recently, LL Bean Bikes were made by canondale. Can anyone give me any information on this bike? <Q> I bought the bike, along with a Cannondale LL Bean mountain bike in 1983 (I believe) from the catalog, and I'm pretty sure I still have the owners manual. <S> The rear rack is not original to the bike. <S> It has twelve speeds, which was pretty cool at the time when everyone else was still riding bikes with ten. <S> Cheers! <A> Cannondale did make bikes for LL Bean in the 1980s, and this looks like a Cannondale. <S> I think @ojs has it. <A> It does sort of look like a Cannondale. <S> I think the tubes look a little small for aluminum but also look too big for steel. <S> It has the hallmark Cannondale plastic housing guides along the top tube. <S> You can check the crank and maybe the handlebars and see if they indicate 'Coda'. <S> Cannondale tourers came with rear racks that look like that. <S> I can't see the chainrings but most tourers come with a triple. <S> It does look like <S> the rear is a long cage for a wider gear range. <S> But I would agree that this isn't 15 years old. <S> I wouldn't even put it in the 90s. <S> My T700 was a '94 <S> and it had the cables below handlebar tape and had barcon shifters. <S> This looks more like an 80s bike with the combo stem shifters and non-aero brake cabling. <A> It looks like a fairly standard mid-late 90s road bike. <S> If owner is positive its only 15 years old then its potentially a BSO. <S> Nothing there makes it a tourer specifically. <S> The frame looks slightly chunky, but not thick like early aluminium bikes. <S> I could be wrong - do the magnet test to see if the frame and/or fork is steel. <S> The stem shifters say mid 90s, and the over-the-top brake cables would agree. <S> Someone's added a parcel rack, perhaps for commuting in a dry place? <S> Lack of mudguards/fenders suggest its not from a wet location. <S> The last person to ride it was not a strong rider, its in the lowest low hillclimbing gear. <S> Gumwall tyres are not common anymore - could they be original ?
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I have a bike just like this one, same color - if you look on the back sprocket protector, (the black plastic piece), it will have Cannondale in raised letters.
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Why are emergency inflation cartridges filled with CO2? Why aren't they filled with ambient air using air compressors? Isn't compressing ambient air cheaper than generating CO2? If it is, then those cartridges would have two benefits: Cheaper to manufacture CO2 filled tires deflate on their own far quicker than ambient air, so using air will mean, once you inflate your tire with a cartridge, you will not have to inflate it again when you are back home. <Q> CO2 charger cartridges are used for bike tire inflation because they are a common, inexpensive product that has been around since the 1950s. <S> Their other uses include powering air guns and inflating life vests. <S> They were originally developed by the Crosman Corporation and marketed under the name "Powerlet". <S> Reasons I can think of are: CO2 turns into a liquid at relatively low pressure compare to other gases <S> -liquids are much denser than gasses so a useful amount of CO2 can fit in a small container. <S> Containers are easy and cheap to make to withstand the required pressure CO2 is cheap and easy to make (although probably not very environmentally friendly). <S> CO2 is inert, will not react with the container material. <S> It isn't flammable but heating a cartridge probably isn't a good idea. <S> Updates to my answer seeing as it popped back up on the main page for some reason. <S> CO2 cartridges are not filled with compressed CO2, they are filled with liquid CO2. <S> That has to be done to get enough of the stuff in the cartridge to be useful. <S> The cartridge is not completely filled however, and the gas pressure in the space is essentially constant (the vapor pressure) as long as there is some liquid CO2 remaining. <S> You can't put liquid air in a cartridge because it's comprised of nitrogen, oxygen, water vapor and CO2, all of which have different boiling points. <S> In fact, C02 turns to a solid before nitrogen turns to a liquid. <A> I believe you will find these articles informative: <S> The hidden life of a CO 2 cartridge <S> [PDF] The CO 2 Cartridge … an Under-Appreciated Marvel of Technology! — <S> George Fox Lang <S> [PDF] <S> At room temperature (below the 31 <S> °C/87.8°F critical temperature) <S> a CO 2 bottle is to a practical extent self-regulating. <S> This is not possible with simple compressed air. <S> You would need a larger, stronger, heavier "high pressure air" bottle with a regulator (and its associated cost and complexity) to serve the same function. <S> This makes CO 2 far more suited to a bicycle repair kit due to: small size low weight <S> low cost reliability (simplicity) <S> This video of supercritical carbon dioxide provides an interesting window (both literal and figurative) into the phase behavior described in the articles above: <A> This explains part of the reason in what may be too much detail: <S> http://chemed.chem.purdue.edu/genchem/topicreview/bp/ch4/deviation5.html If you're going to read any of it, read the material starting after the table listing "van der Waals Constants for the Various Gases". <S> It calculates that compressing CO 2 from 1 Liters to 0.2 Liters using the Ideal Gas Law (which will be nearly correct for air) "the pressure would have to be increased to 112 atm" but that for CO 2 (at 0°C) "The van der Waals equation, however, predicts that the pressure will only have to increase to 52.6 atm". <S> This is much less pressure for the same volume of gas (at normal atmospheric pressure). <S> Think about the safety aspects: the container for this won't need to be nearly as strong (as expensive) as one for the same std. <S> volume of air. <S> Economically and safety wise, it's a no-brainer.
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Powerlet cartridges are filled with CO2 presumably because it's the most suitable gas.
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I just bought a Giant TCX SLR 2, but I still have money to spend. Which parts should I upgrade? I am new to bicycling. I bought this bike because it had good reviews and ratings and it fits the area where I am living. I am not intending to use this in a cyclocross race, but maybe in the future. I still have money to spend, so which parts of the bike should I upgrade for the bike to function even better? <Q> A good investment for someone new to cycling who starts with such a sporty bike is to get a good bike fit. <S> Based on the findings of the fit a part that maybe has to be replaced, is the stem. <S> As these come at different lengths but are not adjustable. <S> You need to get pedals as well. <S> You may choose between flat pedals, clip-less road pedals and clip-less mountain bike pedals. <S> Each have their advantages as well as disadvantages on a cyclo-cross bike. <S> For the clip-less pedals compatible shoes are needed. <S> Criggie mentioned in a comment useful tools and accessories that you might need depending on your intended use. <S> For instance, if you use it to practice CX on a lawn, five minutes walk from your home, you will not need spare tubes and tools on your bike. <S> Conversely, if you ride long remote gravel roads, a days march from the next settlement, you will need to be very well equipped for all kinds of field repairs. <S> In addition, each use case requires a distinctly different bike fit. <A> The answers are mostly opinion based but here goes ... <S> I'd leave the bike alone to start with. <S> After you get an decent amount of miles on it a <S> you may find you want a different length stem, different handlebar or seat etc. <S> To optimize your riding experience I'd invest in good, well fitting shoes and pedals, good clothing, helmet, water bottles, a multitool for on-trail adjustments. <S> Some basic bike cleaning tools and supplies. <S> Lights add some safety and extend riding into twilight and darkness hours. <S> If you really, really want to upgrade the bike itself, the best bet would be to return it and buy the next model up in the range (TCX Advanced Pro). <A> After the fit, accessories and contact points, I think that wheels are the most important piece of hardware. <S> Unfortunately it's usually the most expensive upgrade save a new group set. <S> Im going to disclude saddle and pedals because they're givens and they need to be comfortable so that expense is unavoidable and not necessarily and upgrade. <S> Good wheels are usually a nice upgrade, can last many years, can often be transferred from bike to bike and make a noticeable difference in ride. <S> Then I'd say good rubber to put on those wheels <S> is money well spent. <S> And maybe a good pair of fenders depending your local climate.
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But first of all, get accustomed to the bike and find out what you like to use it for, as this changes everything.
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Tubeless with liquid or inner tubes with liquid? I am about to replace the worn tires of my Cube Acid 29". My question is what to choose among: tubeless tires with sealant liquid, or normal tires, with inner tubes with sealant liquid? My most important factors are: puncture proof, and total kilometers and time resistance of the tires. Let's put aside all other factors (grip, cost, ease of use, rolling ability etc), as my style of bicycling is low rhythm, no trails, but on unpaved roads with stones, thorns, roots, everything you face in a forest road. <Q> In your case I would go with tubes. <S> The Tubeless evolution comes from the advantages you list and some disadvantages. <S> The only one that is of interest to you is puncture resistance. <S> By putting slime in tubes, you gain that without most of the the disadvantages of tubeless. <S> As the slime dries is needs topping up, if using tubes and neglecting this maintenance won't induce a leak as can happen with tubeless. <S> You will need to source tubes with removable cores in there valve. <S> This not only allows you to insert the slime (without puncturing the tube), it allows you remove the vales when it gets gummed up by slime for cleaning or replacement. <S> To be clear, the disadvantages of tubeless over slime filled tubes are small - initial seating of the tire and burping. <S> You probably won't have a problem with burping as you won't be running low pressures over rough ground, so really once the tires are mounted, there is not all that much difference in it. <A> If sealant is used in tubes, it must plug two holes every time there is a puncture. <S> These holes can move relative to each other, making it harder to get a good seal. <S> Furthermore, tubes can pinch flat if run at too low pressures or if you hit a sharp bump. <S> Sealant cannot seal pinch flats easily as they occur on the part of the tube closest to the rim while the centrifugal motion makes the sealant end up on the tire side. <S> From my personal experience, going tubeless has been great. <S> I've yet to have a flat on my mountain bike since I set it up tubeless despite running much lower pressures. <S> I like it so much that I plan to set up my road bike up tubeless soon. <A> The fact that there are two opposite answers, each with two upvotes shows that there is no clearcut best answer to this question. <S> Also consider how self-reliant you need or want to be - no more than 10 minutes walk from transport, or multi-day rides in the back country should have bearing on what you choose. <S> Any level of self sufficiency requires you to carry spare tube(s) and tools to change a flat, and have the mechanical aptitude to do so alone. <S> Price comes into it too - if you need new rims to go tubeless then I wouldn't contemplate at all.
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The tube is much harder to plug with sealant, and if not perfectly sealed, air can also potentially escape from around the valve stem (or other whole in the rim if no rim tape is used). In your case I would go with tubeless. You need to think about how and where you ride, and pick the one with the advantages that match your needs.
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I keep getting flats right at the valve! I changed 3 inner-tubes, they keep getting cut right at the bottom of the valve. I sanded down the hole where the valve goes, it had a sharp edge! Flats still happening... <Q> As Paparazzi said: make sure the valve goes straight through the valve hole, i.e. perpendicular to the tube. <S> This is likely the solution, but I've seen it happen that even after properly aligning the valve it somehow wasn't aligned anymore after a couple of rides. <S> Which resulted in the bottom of the valve getting cut by the edge of the valve hole in the rim. <S> Which means the tube did not (or not completely) stay in place, i.e. at least a part of it shifted with respect to the rim (and possibly the tyre, hard to tell). <S> As far as I know two things could cause this, first one more likely than the other: if your tube diameter is bigger than your rim and you force it in the tyre anyway <S> , there whill be one or more wrinkles in the tube. <S> If this wrinkle is near the valve, it's not too hard to see that it's possible that under stress the tyre can move a bit, resulting in an unaligned valve, resulting in cutting even with a proper tube diameter, if your tube sticks to the tyre around the location of the valve (caused e.g. by lack of some antistick agent like chalk, water getting in, ...) <S> and there is quite a lot of stress on the tyre, the tyre could in theory move with respect to the rim and drag the tube with it. <S> Can, as far as I know, only be caused by skidding or incorrectly landing jumps or so: unless the tyre is the wrong size, it requires sheer force to rotate it over the rim. <A> Make sure the valve is properly aligned. <S> It should not be tilted to either side. <A> I had this happen <S> when I ordered a bike with fatter tires, it took a year of wrong guesses to figure it out.
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If this keeps happening, it is possible the tubes are too small for the tires, so that the tubes slide around inside the tires and the stem goes askew.
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Commuting 36 kms, 5 days a week My workplace is 18 kms ( 11 miles ) away from home. I am planning to commute to and from every workday, 5 days a week. My stats - 6'1" (185 cms )82 kgs (180 lb ) I generally average around 22 km/h while going and coming (13 mi/hr). The commute takes about 50 mins, I am in the zone for 30-35 mins. I am able to follow this routine, but worry that I am overdoing it. I feel that I am loosing muscle mass. So far, I do no weight / strength training. Eat a normal and healthy 3 course. Can anyone please give me idea about - Diet regiment. ( I really hope suppliments can be avoided.) Body weight exercises if any is required. I hope I can avoid the gym. The aim that I am able to achieve is to keep continue cycling with this routine hopefully generally around 15mph ( 25 kmph ) <Q> If you are feeling physically worn out by the commute and you are not used to, well, you are just tiring yourself out and not allowing you muscles to recover between rides. <S> Keep riding and your body will eventually adapt. <S> Maybe you want to do this commute every other day for a while, or at a slower pace to help you your body strengthen itself. <S> Simply riding will build strength and endurance. <S> Doing some body weight core exercises will probably help stabilize you torso and let your legs work efficiently. <A> You will lose muscle mass (apart from cycling muscles) if this commute replaces going to the gym. <S> That's pretty much inevitable unless you can find the time and energy for weights sessions. <S> When I did a little less than that commute my shower was at a gym <S> and I did a mini session (upper/core) most days. <S> You may or may not have that option. <S> If you don't, consider whether with a small investment of money you could get some suitable weights at home. <S> Time-wise the key is to get your weights in while you're sweaty and warmed up anyway. <S> I chose to have protein bars as recovery snacks after my morning ride /gym session. <S> That might help, but most people don't need extra protein. <S> With that amount of exercise, you can pretty much eat what you like in terms of calories; your dentist (for example) may have other things to say. <S> If you started fit but not muscly you'll build your legs and the rest won't suffer. <S> What you'll lose is fat. <A> With that commute, you are probably burning ~1000 <S> kCal/day more than you would without that commute. <S> Are you sure you're eating enough? <S> I've had cyclist friends who complained of constantly being tired and not being able to build strength. <S> It turns out that these friends were eating enough calories, but weren't getting nearly enough protein. <S> It sounds like you might be in the same boat. <S> I'm no nutritionist, but from what I understand, you should be eating 1-2 grams of protein per kg of bodyweight per day, and you should space that out over the course of the day, since your body can't absorb it all at once. <S> The best way to get faster at cycling is to ride faster. <S> I realize that sounds glib, but there are a lot of tutorials for interval training, etc, on the web. <A> I seriously doubt you are losing muscle mass. <S> The body only consumes muscle mass in extreme situations. <S> There is also a layer of fat under muscles so loss of fat may look like loss of muscle mass. <S> Many people train much harder than that. <S> No need to for special diet. <S> Add some healthy calories if you feel like you are losing too much fat. <A> personally, I commute 11km each day to and from work, with general traffic. <S> I then bike back home at the end of the day. <S> My tips for a good commute are as follows : <S> spend time on Google Maps and find out a route that has dedicated bike lanes or lots of roads that are not major. <S> Also, try and avoid stop signs and red lights. <S> Your safety is very important when you go fast, so taking the time to figure out a good path is crucial. <S> Observe other bikers when biking yourself while I would never usually run through stop signs and sometimes red lights on small intersections, if this is the norm, it may be worthwhile to follow the other people. <S> I cannot condone this behaviour, but if a motorist is used to everyone running stop signs, they may act in a way that is dangerous to you and them if you do not do as they expect . <S> split up your day, and rememeber to stretch <S> Chamois creme <S> you will need it for the first few weeks. <S> Even after just to make your ride comfortable.
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I personally do not believe that just biking is good for your health, so it is important to do other exercises, and especially do stretches at the beginning. Optimize your route in terms of safety and shortcuts I take a shower at work, where we have a bike-to-work club with lockers and showers, and then I hit the gym during lunch, either for crossfit, squash or spinning.
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Bottle on frame alternative I've been riding with a bottle filled with isotonic drink + hydration backpack with plain water for quite awhile. Recently my bottle stated to fall off on descents (not the best frame design + increase in speed). I'm looking for alternatives to frame mounted bottle cage that will suit aggressive trail riding. Solutions like Source dual bladder won't fit, because once you had a sweetened drink in your bladder it's just a matter of time before mold starts to grow there. I've looked on runners belts, but 600ml is way too little for hot conditions. Assuming I want to separate between sweetened electrolyte drink and regular water, and a minimum of 1l liquids all together, what are my options on the market nowadays? <Q> First of all: You mention that the placement of the bottle mount is bad. <S> There are adapters which allow you to mount a bottle cage without frame holes. <S> E.g. SKS <S> Anywhere , Minoura or this set . <S> All look rather flimsy though. <S> Mounts for the handlebar or behind the saddle usually look more sturdy, if you have space there. <S> There is also the Salsa Anything Cage which allows you to mount and tie down anything anywhere. <S> If a better, more vertical mounting point for your existing bottle cages doesn’t solve the problem, maybe you should get better bottle cages. <S> For example I use these Elite bottle cages with various normal ~800ml bicycle bottles on my cyclocross <S> and I’ve never lost a bottle (except in a 40km/h crash, but that doesn’t really count). <S> They also seem quite popular. <A> My bottle holder under the frame (the third) is also prone to dropping its contents. <S> That's easily fixed with an elastic strap round the bottle and down tube <S> (I use an old reflective ankle strap or bungee cord. <S> I doubt many people will be drinking from a bottle mounted there while riding anyway, so the extra difficulty of getting it out doesn't really matter. <S> The cheap aluminium cages can be bent tighter, but with plastic cages it's easier to pad them out using an old inner tube, cable ties, and/or duct tape. <S> You can buy clamps to put a bottle on the handlebars . <S> Two-bottle belts are available -- I have an old one that I sometimes use if I ride then run. <S> Mine takes 800ml bottles happily, but anything bigger would be awkward. <A> I would like to summarize all the common wisdom that was mentioned here. <S> Note I'm talking about MTB enduro/ <S> all mountain/aggressive trail riding that involve hammering down downhill style trails, with roots, stones, drops above meter height. <S> Also I assume your frame does not have any bottle cage mount, which is common among modern enduro bikes (Nukeproof Mega, YT Capra, Polygon Square One) <S> In a perfect world I see it as a bladder backpack with a secure belt pocket for bottles size <S> 500-800 ml. <S> I guess there are exceptions, but for me none of those options will fit, because a. the only place I can allow another 750 g. of weight is close to the bike center of gravity; b. can't see most of those options survive aggressive downhill hammering. <S> There are runners belts that should take 2 bottles of volume 500 ml, but that's not officially mentioned on brand's sites. <S> @Chris H mentioned that his Karrimor Duo X holds bottles up to 800 ml. <S> volume. <S> Another option (and IMO the best one) is to separate between hydration & energy needs and add sweeteners free salt tablets to your hydration bladder and use gels, snacks or jelly candies to restore energy. <S> This way you can care less about your bladder maintenance, avoid aftertaste if you decide to ride with the same bladder after sweetened drinks and plan your carbohydrates intake better during the ride. <A> I think you can fix this by buying a better water bottle cage. <S> The Camelbak podium, especially older ones have a ridge that can fit into water bottle holders well. <S> When paired with a water bottle holder that can exploit this ridge then it is a very secure fit. <S> I think you should go to a bike store and look at different water bottle cages and bottles to find a pair that fits really well. <A> I recently saw a bottle holder in a shop that consisted of webbing and velcro. <S> The design was for a bottle smaller than you describe, but you might be able to make your own. <S> An internet search did not show the one I did see in the shop <S> but it did show this one out of this page about how to attach a Fire Extinguisher to an UTV. <S> With a flexible cage you can fit in the bottle you want, and use the position on the bike that suits it best.
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There are solutions to mount your bottle on the frame, all of them lame in a different way: Velcro mounted bottle cage (less lame), on the bars (very lame), on the saddle (also very lame). As to current state (fall 2017) there is no ultimate solution that has a mount for both sweetened drink bottle and regular water bladder. There is a nice solution by Source , but you should remember to do your best to clean it after a ride ASAP and store in the freezer, otherwise you'll share your energy drink with other forms of life (mold).
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Will Deore M6000 SGS derailleur work with 42t cassette in 1x10 configuration? I'm building a 26er 1x10 commuter. I have a 40t chainring and 11-42 cassette. Will an out-of-the-box (no goat link or extra-long B screw) 2017 Deore M6000 SGS Rear Derailleur work with this? Will the YBN SLA 101-TiB chain have enough links to cover the drivetrain? <Q> I talked to Shimano this morning and got the final word. <S> The reason the long cage is designated as having a shorter reach than the medium cage is because the long cages is designed to be used with the triple crankset. <S> The Shimano representative <S> I spoke with confirmed that the long cage is indeed only designed to wrap around 36T cog. <A> I'm very late <S> but here's my experience with my 26" commuter bike, actually I converted it for summer touring because during the rest of the year I commute with 42 front and 12-25 <S> rear <S> M6000 SGS (designed for 36 max) can work with 42 but you need a longer M5 screw, that's the quickest and cheapest solution, now I'm using 34 single ring front, 11-42 HG500 cassette, also the previous SLX derailler is fine with a rear 42. <A> I just converted my 26er from 3x7 to 1x10 (32x11-42) and it works fine with Deore M6000 SGS. <S> Tried both attaching the derailleur with/without an extension, surprisingly it works better without. <A> I am even later and had exactly the same question/issue. <S> I have the RD-M6000-SGS and the 11-42 HG500 cassette. <S> When I put the height setting bolt full in I believe it's maybe just ok. <S> But to have a bit more range I changed the original bolt <S> , M4 x 18 (note, it's M4, not M5!) <S> to a headless M4 x 20mm. <S> Note that the original Shimano bolt has a small head (~ Ø5.3mm) <S> , typical is 6.9mm. <S> Since the RD has a cavity for the head <S> a normal size bolt will not fit. <S> You need to go either longer, M4 x 25 or go headless. <S> My headless type is DIN 913 <S> but ideal would be a headless bolt with dog point DIN 915
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The bottom line is the medium cage m6000 derailleur is the only 10 speed derailleur designed to work with the 11-42t cassette out of the box.
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