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Help understanding effect of Crankarm length on gear ratios Trying to learn more about bike fit and gearing, and having trouble understanding the effect of crankarm length on gearing. In an article on bicycling.com it states "The relative jumps between gears stay the same, but the overall range will feel slightly easier to pedal, or smaller, with shorter cranks and harder with longer ones." It makes sense to me that crankarm length would have an effect on how hard it feels to spin a certain ratio, but instinctively I would assume the opposite effect described here -- that a longer arm would give more leverage and make the overall range feel lower. https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/components/what-you-need-to-know-about-crankarm-length <Q> I think the article you reference is in error. <S> Obviously a longer crank arm gives more leverage, requiring less pedaling force to move the bike but requiring a faster pedaling cadence the pedal to moved faster around a larger circle (same angle/unit time, more distance/unit time). <S> The rider's leg must therefore extend further and more quickly. <A> The difference between a 170mm and a 175mm crank is about 3%. <S> That will also be the difference of the leverage, so probably barely perceptible. <S> However the impact they may have on the pedalling will depend on anatomical differences, mainly on the length of legs as a shorter crank <S> reduces the circumference of the pedal circle which in return affects the angles of the joints in hips, knees and ankles. <S> The general recommendation is that shorter legs ask for shorter cranks. <S> Taller riders will need longer cranks. <S> A serious bike-fitter should find the best crank-length for the individual rider. <A> Shorter cranks increase gearing 3% for every 5mm shorter. <S> Mine are 150mm <S> and I struggle to get low enough gears <S> I have 12 to 32 cassette and even 32 is not low enough, my granny ring is 42 teeth. <S> Shorter is better with no loss of power, because a bent knee is the weakest, try doing half squats instead of full ones. <A> All the responses answer the question, but if you need help understanding what the ratios mean as they relate to riding, I would recommend heading over to Sheldon Brown's gear calculator . <S> It is very simple to use, just select your crank length, wheel size, chain rings and cassette, and it spits out a table of ratios for each combination. <S> In particular, I would suggest finding your gain ratio using the calculator. <S> He invented the formula, and in my opinion, it is the superior method of using bicycle gear ratios in the real world. <S> He describes it in an example he gives: <S> This number is a pure ratio, the units cancel out. <S> I call this a "gain ratio" (with thanks to Osman Isvan for suggesting this term.) <S> What it means is that for every inch, or kilometer, or furlong the pedal travels in its orbit around the bottom bracket, the bicycle will travel 5.58 inches, or kilometers, or furlongs.
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Also you get less injury's and pain with shorter cranks
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How did my stolen carbon frame bike get from D.C. to Guatamala? My bike was stolen from the downtown DC on nov 11 2017. It was locked and was stolen in the middle of the day. I had put a bluetooth device, more specifically Tile in the seat post of the bike. I figured it may help me locate my bike if its ever stolen or something. Someone with the app has to be in a proximity of the bike for it to send a signal. Anyways after it was stolen there was no signal for months, and now it was the app says the bike was found in Compalapa Guatamala. I know i will never recover the bike, but I am wondering what the possibilities are of how a stolen bike in DC ends up in central america? <Q> There is a large community of people from or born to people from Central America that live in the DC area. <S> The largest group has ties to El Salvador. <S> The percentage of Latinos from Mexico is only about 5%. <S> The is a also large presence from Peru as well. <S> Peruvian rotisserie chicken is very good. <S> MS 13 has a significant presence in Northern Virginia and DC and that gang has ties to Guatemala. <S> It isn’t surprising that a nice stolen bike would show up there. <S> Guatemala also has the highest murder rate in the world <S> so I wouldn’t go looking for it. <A> "You're not in Guatamala now Dr Ropata" (Opening line from a TV show that has been running 25 years <S> Conspiracy theorist here. <S> Maybe the bike is not in Guatamala. <S> As the veracity of the report can never be proved, they appear to be doing what they claim on the box to do. <S> Maybe someone found the Tile in the seat tube and posted it to Guatamala for a joke, or to put you off the idea of ever finding your bike. <A> In my area (the Netherlands, near the coast) there are regularly boats with loads of cheap looking bikes on the deck. <S> Sometimes those are legally bought from bikes found and reported to the police and bikes left on the streets even after a removal warning and not claimed. <S> But other times the bikes on are stolen. <S> And when a whole series of bikes is stolen in one go, the local talk is asking whether there is a boat about to leave or has just left. <S> Not sure that happened in your case as well <S> but I would not be surprised.
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Could be an mistake, or that that Tile noticed you bike was stolen and made up a report that its in a location far far away.
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Cheapest way to make 8 speed folding bike a good climber I'm planning to buy an 8 speed Dahon Mariner D8 folding bike (2018 version). I'm going add some bike bags to it and do little bit touring so I need good climbing performance. It's a bit difficult to climp steep hills especially with the bags. I believe it has 52T crankset and 11-32T casette. So I was thinking what if I buy the Shimano Nexus FC-C6000 38T crankset and replace the 52T one with it. Do you think it would be compatible? https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/nexus-c6000-int8/FC-C6000.html https://www.downtube.com/dahon-mariner-8sp-folding-bike/ <Q> I've done something similar with a 6 speed bike (42 tooth chainring, and 14-28 rear. <S> Its now a 48/38/28 with an 8 speed 11-32 cassette, so <S> the lowest climbing gear is 15.4 gear-inches. <S> A folding bike is kinda bad for touring for multiple reasons <S> Small wheels make everything harder. <S> Mine's got 20" wheels, some are 16" and some might be as large as 24" <S> Small wheels make the chainstay shorter than full sized bikes, so you can't use rear panniers. <S> Also, if I have a load on my rear carrier I get heel-strike. <S> There's little space on the front forks for panniers, and anything you did fit would interfere with folding the bike. <S> Weight balance is dreadful on a climb. <S> Mine's got a super-long seatpost, so when on a decent climb you have to be out of the saddle, else it gets very lifty. <S> Pedals - if your folder has folding pedals with plastic, either change them for normal pedals or get some high quality MKS folding/clipout ones. <S> Mine had plastic shells and a plastic tang on the locking mechanism, so the only way they held load was when pressure was put on the stubby bit right by the crank/thread. <S> It is a horrid feeling when riding in the highest gear you have, and you're still spinning out and bouncing in the saddle. <S> SOLUTION: <S> Fit at least a compact double chainring. <S> Or do what I did and fit a spare triple chainring from some old MTB. <S> The main downside is there's nowhere on my frame to attach any kind of front derailleur, so <S> changing is a finger-dirtying shift with your right hand. <S> Also, big/big gives a bad chainline which can cause the chain to drop to the middle chainring on bounces. <S> You could also explore a new BB like a schlumph mountain drive, which is a 2 speed IGH in the front chainring. <A> Could you fit an 11-34 cassette? <S> The Altus/MegaRange RD-M310 derailleur on the 2017 model appears to support it. <S> I've switched from an 8-speed 11--32 to an 8-speed 11--34 with a very similar (Acera RD-M360) on my hybrid and despite being within spec <S> it needed quite a lot of fiddling. <S> This may combine well with an chainring somewhere between what you've got and what you're looking at, so you don't lose so much at the top end of your gearing, somethign like a 42 perhaps. <S> In the extreme case you might be able to fit a double crankset but no front derailleur, and change between chainrings by hand (when stopped, you're not Sheldon Brown). <S> Going more expensive there are apparently quick-change chainrings <S> but I've never seen one in real life. <A> I believe the Dahon has a square taper bottom bracket, and the Nexus crank is compatible with that. <S> I have to ask though <S> , won't a 38 tooth chainring make the bike grossly under-geared? <S> There are other square taper single ring cranks with standard bolt patterns available that can take a ring between 40 and 50 teeth. <A> I have <S> a 24 spd Dahon Speed TR & it uses SCRAM Dual drive (on the rear wheel) with a multi spd free wheel. <S> The Dual Drive is really a 3 spd (low, med, high) hub that is shifted with a paddle shifter. <S> The bike is very good for riding in very hilly territory. <S> Site wold not let me mdse the pix property, sorry. <S> Green bike is the dahon. <S> Blue bike is a Full Campy, Columbus DB tubes, Cinnelli lugs, silk tubulars. <S> Not good on extreme hills, but a great, fast street bike esp centuries <S> .. enter image description here ] 3 ] 3 klxdrt
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Gearing - if you shrink the single chainring, then you have lost top-end gears. Weight balance is bad then too - I've had the rear wheel simply loose traction on climbs, mostly when I've put a bit of extra push on it to get up and over a lip, or a bit of loose gravel. Downside, it will be expensive.
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What are the benefits and drawbacks of different recumbent seat styles? I've just bought a project recumbent. It has no seat yet. There are many different types - why would I choose a mesh one over a solid one? Mesh style - a HPVelotechnik "ergomesh" "Bench" style - a HPVelotechnik "bodylink seat" This same shape comes in metal or wood as well as carbon fibre. an AAZZAA brand seat A homemade carbon fibre seat A homemade steamed and laminated plywood seat. <Q> In short: There is no definite answer and there are better places to ask. <S> Having used two different mesh seats (both with a cushioned sit upon part and a mesh back) and one kind of hard seat, I feel I can give some advice. <S> But as most is a case of availability and preference, I will not be able to give a definite answer. <S> When cycling you sweat and with your back on or against your seat (depending on how much upright you are) you want ventilation. <S> So your wooden seat is out unless you can introduce a ventilation layer or system. <S> Next your position on the bike is such that you have much less options to take your weight (as you would do on any bike where your pedals are below you) <S> so your seat will have to work with whatever springs and shock absorbers you have on the bike. <S> The more absorbers you have, the less flex or cushioning you need in your seat. <S> On a bike with no spring or shock absorbing you need a seat that takes up all shocks, not a hard one. <S> Cushions can work but are hardly anytime enough. <S> On all 'bents I have never needed anything to keep me in place. <S> On the other hand, I prefer to be able to change position a bit so I can use different muscles or skin spots to avoid problems on longer rides, just like you may want to shift around on a horses saddle or an upright bike. <S> The ventilation and cushioning can be aided by the cushion you select. <S> Ventisit pads are one kind which I have often seen in use, but as far as I know they are not the only kind around. <S> While I love the stack exchange sites, I feel a question as important as this should be asked where a lot of recumbent riders come together, exchange information and are willing to help out others. <S> Like the Bentridersonline forum. <S> Again, there are others, but this is one <S> I know that works. <S> Added:If your bike is more or less standard or you plan to repair it to standard, why not go for a seat that is standard for the bike or as near to it as you can get it? <S> The designers have experience with bikes and the design is proven. <A> One other thought: A seat with a frame (mesh) accepts a tailbox easier. <S> One can build a lightweight tailbox and connect it to the aluminum seat frame with just zip ties and such. <A> Interim differences summarised: Cloth seat is more comfortable than a rigid seat even with padding. <S> Pressure points (your sit bones) will compress padding to a rigid seat, where a cloth seat would be more forgiving. <S> Cloth seat has better ventilation, assuming an open fabric is used. <S> This allows airflow through and sweat to come out. <S> Rigid seat provides more elbow room, where the rails of a cloth seat could interfere. <S> Rigid seat is more aerodynamic because it is completely behind the rider's torso. <S> Cloth seat is slightly safer because it does poke out further than the rider. <S> This would protect the rider from the ground if sliding, or slightly from intruding objects. <S> Cloth seat frame could be built taller to form a roll-bar to add supports for a roof/rain deflector <S> /sunshade Cloth seat is safer because your bum and back are slightly cupped, where a rigid seat is less cuppy so you could slide sideways easier. <S> Probably more of an issue on a trike where there is no leaning into corners. <S> Cloth seat frame might be engineered to fold, making the seat pan adjustable separately to the seat back. <S> A rigid seat would only be able to tilt on its mount points. <S> Cloth seat is easier to build (this is debatable) <S> Both seat styles support a headrest of some sort. <S> Both can be under a kilogram total, or as heavy as you want. <S> Both can have their cloth/padding parts removable for washing. <S> I'll come back with more information in a couple months.
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Rigid seat presents more power because the rider's back is firmly supported, where a cloth seat has more give and will flex on every power stroke.
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Converting 3×7 speed into a 2(chainrings)×1(sprockect) I own Firefox Rapide 21s, which has Acera 7s(14-28t) groupset are rear and Tourney 3s(28-38-48t) groupset at front. In a recent accident, the rear derailleur took some impact and is bent now, it doesn't latch on to 7th &1st gear. I went to a mechanic he applied some pressure to make it straight, he said it(method) could potentially make the derailleur straight, and I don't want to spend money in getting a new one. While coming back home, I tried to shift up to 1st gear to see what happens -- it dug into one of the spokes, locking the tyre, making me fall. Now that spoke is bent and has become loose. However, the real question is: Now, I don't like the method he has proposed to straighten it. Hence, I have decided to remove all the gears and make it a single speed.My focus always has been higher speed, so I'm thinking of getting 53t×11t(chainring×sprocket).But I'm also thinking - the ratio that setup makes might be a little bit too much for me in all circumstances.Therefore, I was thinking of fitting a double crankset up front(possibly 34-50t or 39-53t) and single sprocket(possibly 12t or 14t, respectively).Or is that even possible? I goolged and looked at most places, but could find any answer. <Q> The length of the chain would differ between chain rings. <S> The derailleur compensates this by running the chain a longer path that may be shortened by moving the derailleur arm. <S> It also tensions the chain due to its spring, which hold the chain on the chainring. <A> The derailleur itself was possibly not bent. <S> It was most likely the derailleur hanger , which is meant to bend to save the derailleur from damage. <S> I would not use that mechanic again as he failed to set your bike up correctly ultimately causing more damage and putting you in danger of a crash - or - <S> if in fact you tried to save money by demanding only the minimum fix, you just learned a lesson about false economy. <S> You mentioned getting a double crank to replace your triple, that is not an insignificant cost. <S> You will also need a chain tensioner and single speed freewheel. <A> Your proposal makes little sense. <S> Instead of just replacing the rear derailleur, you’re proposing to replace the cassette and chainrings, which may also require new cranks, giving a setup that will still need a rear derailleur anyway. <S> So you’ll be spending much more money to get a less capable bike. <S> 34x12 is a reasonable ratio for a single-speed bike but 50x12 is a pretty high ratio that I only end up using when going down decent hills. <S> I suspect that your suggested setup with only one gear at the rear will require very precise adjustment to avoid the chain falling off in exactly the way it’s already done. <S> It’s hard to see this being reliable.
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Without a rear derailleur one cannot switch gear on the front chainring. You seem to want to convert the bike to single speed to avoid paying for a new derailleur, but the conversion will certainly cost more!
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Friction shifter for Rohloff speedhub? This is might be trivial for someone who actually have a one, but after countless hours reading and watching about the Rohloff speedhub I can't answer this question myself. AFAIK the OEM grip shifter is not the most loved feature of the system. It can't be used with drop handlebars, - as all other grip shifters - it is slippery when wet, and it is not a trigger shifter. So far I have found 23 quirky ways to overcome the handlebar issue, and one trigger shifter review . My first idea would be just to use a one-cable (maybe indexed) friction shifter, and some counter pull mechanism on the other end of the cable to replace the second cable. Seeing the how much effort has gone into mounting or replacing the original shifter, there should be something why this won't work. So why? Why there is no friction shifter available for this hub? <Q> The Rohloff shifting mechanism is designed specifically not to include a spring or other mechanism to move one of the directions. <S> Since it pulls so much cable, it would indeed be difficult to do a single friction shifter. <S> The 2-cable system is feature, not a bug, since Rohloff believes the 2-cable system to be more reliable than one cable + spring. <S> They discuss spring mechanisms as prone to failure. <S> I've had a high-end SRAM x.0 derailleur main spring break on me in the middle of a commute <S> (fixed it with a zip tie in the middle of the cassette <S> so I could at least get home with the 3 rings in front as my gears), so I've seen them go myself. <S> That said, there is a trigger shifting option (ed. <S> by cinq5 ) which is using 2 triggers. <S> It's described in a blog post by Cycle Monkey . <S> I love my Rohloff <S> but I'm no fan of the grip shifter, only because it slips in my greasy hands. <S> If it just had a different texture, I'd be happier. <S> Best solution I've seen was to save a few of those giant rubber bands, that are used to tie broccoli in stores, and apply them to the shifter with a cross pattern for an easy friction increase. <S> I need to go visit the produce section myself. <A> You could use a Rohbox from Gebla. <S> http://www.rohbox.de/ <S> These Boxes attach instead of the Rohloff shifting box to the hub. <S> To shift two modified SRAM shifters are used. <S> It can be eiter MTB or Road versions. <S> So it can be used with a dropbar or with a standard handlebar. <A> I'd second @nollak's answer on using the Rohbox ( here for prices and parts ). <S> The Rohloff hub has its indexing in the actual hub: gear changes are managed by moving a hexagonal nut through 1/14th of a whole turn, and the force required is the same in both directions. <S> This is a good arrangement: the indexing doesn't go out of adjustment. <S> I can't imagine though that a return spring would ever have enough force to move the nut, so two cables are absolutely required. <S> levers suggested at the above link. <S> The result is great: I can change gear from both hand positions, in my imagination not a million miles from the shifting of a formula one car, albeit without as good an engine. <S> Getting used to one lever for up and one for down was quick, and I now much prefer it. <S> I'd imagine on drop bars, if ergo-style levers = <S> brifters = <S> (shifting two gears at a time can be a little hit and miss: it might be that I need to adjust the cables or otherwise).
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The 2-cable system also makes it pretty simple to keep the bike going should one cable fail, since you can shift the bike with a wrench, something that wouldn't be possible if there were a spring trying to return the hub one direction or another (unless that were accounted for in some design). With the Rohbox and profile / bullhorn handlebars, I've used as shifters the DiaCompe 139 Road Safety Lever brake [sic] STI doesn't appeal, bar end levers such as "DiaCompe Bar End Shifters Silver" on the same page would also work well.
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How to tell if a chain should be replaced with park chain checker when it doesn't fit? I have a park chain checker CC-3.2 which has two sides to indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75% wear. However, since I often have some filthy chains due to off-road riding and daily commuting and multiple bikes, I lose track of which ones are worn a little and which ones are worn a lot, Especially after a winter of commuting in salty east coast slush, fine sandy spray from the rainy season, and dirt/sandy stuff flying off my tires from rail trails and singletrack. I've definitely had chains worn well over 1%. So, Other than performance issues, when neither the .5% and .75% sides of the chain checker fit, how can I tell whether a chain is relatively new (and not well worn) or whether it's really worn (probably past 1%) just using my super basic chain checker? Does it fit differently or is there anything specific to look for while it's sitting on the chain? To rephrase: If I have two chains, one with say 0.25% wear and one with 1.25% wear and neither chain allows the indicators on the Park CC-3.2 tool to drop between links, how do I tell the difference? Can I do that by just looking at the park chain checker? <Q> As Argenti Apparatus indicated the "go" / "no go" wear gauge such as the CC-3.2 indicates that the elongation has not yet reached 0.5%. <S> If you want some sort of measurement below that (i.e., 0% to 0.5%) you will need to use a different gauge such as the CC-2, measure the inter rivet difference via a ruler, or use a pair of Vernier calipers to measure the roller to roller difference then convert it to a percent stretch. <S> Using Vernier Calipers <S> My preference is for the Vernier caliper approach as I could it to give very reliable and repeatable measurements if done right. <S> Methodology can be found in this answer . <S> Example of an inner link measurement <S> (10 links apart) <S> I use the lookup table below to convert an inter-roller distance 10 links apart to percent stretch <S> (calibration methods can be found here ) Predicting Service Date <S> I then periodically take a few measurements to predict service dates using a regression approach, such as the example below for a KMC X11-SL chain. <S> As you can see wear rate is fairly linear so extrapolating outside observed data range isn't too problematic (assuming we use the chain under similar conditions). <S> In this case, the regression model predicts it will be time to change the chain at about 3,250 km. <S> If you want to get even more complicated it is fairly straight forward to add confidence intervals to the prediction, then check again at the lower confidence bound. <A> If neither size of the chain checker tool will fit between the rollers, the chain is less than 0.5% worn. <S> The Park Tool is not supposed to have more resolution than that. <S> I personally keep a ride log (relatively easy with Strava and Wahoo) <S> so I know how many miles my bikes have done. <A> How to identify extreme chain wear on a Park CC-3.2 (or similar tool) with only 0.75 side: <S> Chain is >= 0.75% wear and probably chain is < %1, it will drop between the rollers. <S> Chain is probably > 1% wear and worn more than a few percent, likely > 1% wear, it will hit the inner edge of the tool and the indicator will not drop between the rollers. <S> If a chain is very worn and the measurement gauge hits chain links on the inside edge of the gauge as opposed to the outside edge of the gauge, this can indicate that the chain is well past the .75% wear. <S> This technique can be used to identify whether a chain is heavily worn when you only have a "GO / NO GO" chain checker. <S> You can see an example of a heavily worn chain showing this condition below (See inner edge contact instead of outer edge contact). <S> Image Source: Dalemorrison66 on Instagram
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Chain is < 0.75% wear, it will hit on the outer edge of the tool and the indicator will not drop between rollers.
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Swap 7-speed for 9-speed I have a Giant Defy 9-speed road bike, and a thief stole the front wheel. I found a good deal on a set of used Bontrager (Edit: Mavic Aksium) wheels, so I bought them as a set. I want to swap both wheels so that they match, and also because the new wheel is 72g lighter. Probably a higher quality wheel overall. The trouble is, it's a 7-speed. I know how to change a cassette, but I've never changed a hub. I can see that the 7-speed hub is smaller, so 9 gears won't fit. Can I move the 9-speed cassette over? I'm guessing there might be some kind of compatibility issues, but I don't know what to look for. Edit : I just realized the Mavic hub has a spacer behind the cassette, which can be removed, leaving enough room for 9 sprockets. But now the locknut doesn't quite tighten all the way, it looks like I need to add a spacer of less than 1mm. <Q> This is why you do the research before buying (and why wheels get stolen). <S> If you really want to use the 7-speed wheel, you can leave out one cog from the cassette and use derailleur limit screws to prevent it from shifting outside the cassette. <A> Re-sell the nice 7-speed wheelset, then buy a wheelset that has a 9 speed freehub. <S> I assume you did not realize that the freehub body was a 7 speed when you bought the set - sorry that happened, and I realize that there is a myriad of parts compatibility issues with bikes that is difficult to learn. <S> Getting a bike repair shop to do it for you will likely cost more than the wheelset in the first place. <A> I've done something like this. <S> I had a rear wheel with a 6 speed freewheel, and an 8 speed hub and cassette. <S> I simply undid all the nipples and re-laced the new hub to the old rim. <S> Fortunately for me, the old spokes were the right length already If your rim needs a different spoke length then this will get expensive. <S> You also need the same number of rim holes and flange holes. <S> You might be able to unbolt your 9 speed freehub from the original wheel and bolt it to the newer wheel, but there's a very good chance the mountings won't be compatible. <S> There are multiple standards for this fitment and different ways to undo them. <S> So the single easiest thing to do is use the new front and the old rear wheel. <A> Actually width of the 7sp freehub smaller than 8,9,10 ones, also 7speed cassette has a wider space between sprokets, so if you set this wheel, and dicide to turn your transmission to 7, besides the cassette you have to change your chain, shifters, and likely change rear derailleur. <S> But if you want to keep 9, you can swap the freehub. <S> that's no easy to find it separately from hub, but this is can be cheapest decision, and you can keep the wheelset.
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As Criggie mentioned you could rebuild the rear with your existing hub - but - you may need new spokes and you need to know how to build a wheel and have the appropriate equipment. You did not get a 'good deal' on the nice 7-speed wheelset because it's not compatible with your bike.
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Ultra durable MTB for heavyweight rider (370lbs)? Some might remember me from this post . So basically after finding a fix for my dutch bike I was riding around London I now actually moved back to Germany. To the countryside to be exact and to the hilly countryside as well! With lots of forest. So now I am looking into building or buying a very rigid MTB. I will be mostly riding in the woods. I have also considered an E-Bike for extra boost up those hills but I am not sure if that makes sense or not. The KTM Mighty XL looks really good as far as ebikes go. It is officially rated up to 170kg (~370lbs) but that is actually for the whole bike + rider and baggage. So it's more like 150kg (~330lbs) for the rider. The price tag is probably fair but at about 4000 USD you could also buy a car for that. I am considering it anyways. However I also want to consider regular MTBs. What are some features or things that I should look at that would indicate a bike that can take heavy loads — or that you would recommend or should I have to go for a custom built? In the past I was given a quote for a custom built back in London by SBC Cycles . Great guys but I couldn't spare the coins at that time so waited until I found the working solution for my dutchie . The built was based on a Surly Troll frame even though that bike was conceptualised for the city but could probably easily be altered to be an MTB aka different tyres. In general I was wondering as well - is the MTB market completely international or would I find totally different makes in Germany than in the US? <Q> As you probably know specific product recommendations are off topic here. <S> However, three recommendations: Overbuilt wheels, heavy duty rim, 44 or 48 spokes. <S> The biggest tire you can run, especially on the rear. <S> Consider a full suspension bike. <S> A 90kg rider coming off a big drop is going to generate as much force as you will going over a pothole. <S> Props for your efforts to keep riding. <A> I don’t know if the fat tire bike fad has also hit Europe, but if it has, then fat tire mountain bikes give you many more options. <S> First, they’re not trying to be lightweight in any way. <S> Second, the thick wheels and tires mean that forks, axles, dropouts, and frames also need to be thicker. <S> Spoke counts also tend to be very high. <S> So they tend to be very sturdy and <S> the fat, thick tires are very lush to ride on. <S> Certainly something to consider. <A> I have stepped away from an ebike and am in the process of ordering a Schauff Sumo Offroad which has a guaranteed max load of 200kg(440lbs!!!). <S> Edit 06/21/2018: I just received my Schauff custom bike. <S> Here are some pictures: https://www.pic-upload.de/gal-1166769/gd4vz/1.html
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Fat tire bikes tend to be massively overbuilt.
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Preventing my trunk-mounted bike rack from being stolen I am new to all this - got a bike as a retirement present and bought a Saris Bones 2 bike rack. It seems to me as it is just clip on it could be stolen while I am happily off riding my bike - is this a serious risk or am I just being paranoid? If it is, any solutions? <Q> The metal brackets that clip on the edges of the trunk lid cannot be removed when the trunk is closed and locked, so no-one is going to casually unclip the rack and walk off with it. <S> I suppose someone could lever the brackets out, but that would damage the trunk lid and surrounding bodywork, so you would have a bigger problem and an insurance claim. <S> Also the straps could be cut, but what is the point of stealing a ruined rack? <A> Nothing is theft proof for a determined thief. <S> The best you can do is make more difficult to steal than a similar item close to yours. <S> If your rack is hitch mounted a small cable looped through the chain eyelet or a hitch pin lock should be sufficient. <S> A trunk mounted rack can be secured in a similar method. <S> Attach a length of cable to a block of wood. <S> String the cable through the rack and place the block of wood in the trunk. <S> The rack cant be removed unless the trunk is opened. <S> You could also remove the rack and store it in the trunk while you are riding. <A> Taking it off and put it in the boot is the best protection, however if someone is prepared to steal the rack off the boot, they are just as likely to break into the car and help themselves to its contents. <S> You could add a steel cable requiring bolt cutters to deter the thief but it won't stop them. <S> To prevent damage to the car and associated costs, you may be better to let them get the rack. <A> Make it so nobody would want to steal it. <S> Paint it Pink! <S> And who is going to go walking down the street with a pink bicycle carrier? <S> Not only is that embarrassing, but anyone who can see it would take extra notice of the guy. <S> Because you have got to want to know what guy has a pink bike carrier. <S> Of course if it was a girl thief then the pink carrier might not be so out of place, but it still will get noticed. <S> (although I think the likelihood of a girl bike carrier thief is a lot lower than a guy)
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If the bike rack is harder to steal than just breaking into the car (which is trivially easy for those that don't care about damage) it is as secure as possible.
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Why does my rear derailleur's indexing work for either the high or the low gears, but not both? I am adjusting my rear derailleur indexing. It seems impossible to find the correct tightness. When I tighten the tension with the tension barrel adjuster, I have one of two problems: either it is too tight and the derailleur jumps from the third largest to largest cog (skipping the second largest cog) or it is too loose and does not want to jump from the smallest to second smallest cog. I used the smallest turns imaginable to adjust the barrel adjuster, but still no luck. I kept the front derailleur in the middle cog (of three). Also, adjusting the B screw does not seem to have any effect. There are nine gears. <Q> When adjusting the tightness of the derailleur cable, it should affect the shifting across the whole range of gears evenly. <S> The way you phrased the question, it sounds like you are experiencing problems mainly in the high end when it's too loose and mainly in the low end when it's too tight. <S> That would indicate that your derailleur hanger is out of alignment. <S> You can check that by looking at your bike from behind and seeing if the two small pulley wheels on your derailleur are directly in line with the gears, and not bent at a slightly different angle. <S> It's an easy fix but it requires a specific tool. <S> On the other hand, and as others have suggested, it is very common for grime to build up around the bend in the rear shift cable. <S> It may be hesitant to shift into the highest gear because the remaining tension in the derailleur's spring (which will be at its lowest when the derailleur is most relaxed, or in the highest gear) is not enough to overcome the residual friction between the cable and housing. <S> Sometimes you can solve it just by cleaning the cable. <S> To check/clean it without any tools: <S> shift into the highest (most outward) gear in the rear Hold the rear wheel off the ground (somehow) <S> Pedaling forward with your right hand, use your left hand to push the derailleur in (shift into the lower/inward gears). <S> This will create slack in the shift cable. <S> Take out the housing coming from the rear derailleur from the frame stub holding it in. <S> You can do this because the shift cable should not be under tension. <S> Slide <S> the section of housing out of the way and wipe the cable down thoroughly with a cloth. <S> If you have any, apply a drop of chain oil to the cable (oil your chain while you're at it). <S> Reposition the housing admire your newly reduced cable friction <A> Obvious thought is a mismatched set of shifter/deralieur/cassette mixing pull ratios and number of gears incorrectly. <S> As gear cables are relatively cheap, the best solution is to replace the shifter cable, but if you don't have one around, a clean and lube of the existing cable can make a big difference. <A> at @mattnz says, shift cable and housing is the most likely problem. <S> You can replace both the cable and housing relatively inexpensively. <S> You can at least check the shift cable run. <S> Make sure the housing is sitting in the shifter, derailleur and frame bosses properly, there are no kinks or any damage. <S> Make sure the cable is not frayed. <S> You should also check the derailleur hanger is not bent. <S> Wedge the front wheel in something to hold <S> is straight (or have someone hold the bars), lift the back of the bike up and look down the line of the chain. <S> The derailleur cage should be parallel with the chainrings. <S> If it isn't your local bike repair shop can straighten the hanger.
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If the components are correctly matched, especially on a bike that used to work fine with no changes to components, in my experience the most common cause of this kind of problem is the gear cable itself having too much friction - either from poor routing, a crimp or just being old.
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What makes a good floor pump? There are so many options, mainly because of the own-brand alternatives. So how do I choose a good floor pump? What should I look for? <Q> It must have a good pressure control and display; it should have a proper pressure range. <S> It should have a good connector with detachable/replacable plugs. <S> It should have a long hose, so <S> you're not too close to the bike and make full control strokes on it. <A> A double-sided chuck for both Presta and Schrader valves, with sturdy lever <S> "Universal" chucks don't work as well and aren't as durable <S> (IME, so not the most expensive), while the type that involve switching bits inside are one thing for carrying on the bike when space/weight is at a premium but another for workshop use. <A> When you use the pump to inflate a tire the pump body gets hot. <S> This heating up results in a temporary expansion of the body itself. <S> If the cylinder and the base are made of two different materials (cylinder made of metal, base made of plastic) this thermal cycling can lead, in the long run, to loss of air tightness and less efficient pumping. <S> In the worst case the pump can simply break. <S> So I personally prefer full metal body pumps. <S> Additionally, it is good if it has: <S> versatile head to fit different valves pressure gauge with psi and bar reading large base to be stable during usage fair hose length <A> The ability to shove pressurized air into a tire :-) <S> Seriously, it is very hard to discern minor quality difference between pumps. <S> Best advice is: Look for and read reviews. <S> Get one that looks and feels sturdy and relatively heavy. <S> Avoid the cheapest 1/3 of the available models. <A> Park pumps definitely have rebuild / service kits, as do Zefal and Silca. <A> A Stable Base Floor pumps stand on the floor and you hold your foot on one side for stability. <S> So a base that allows the pump to tip over is less useful. <S> A falling pump could smash the pressure gauge, or worse, subtly uncalibrate it) <S> This is more likely if the gauge is up the top. <A> Don't fuss over this. <S> No-one makes a floor pump that only does low or high-pressure tyres. <S> Yes, a floor pump is less work than the type you clip to your bike frame, but isn't part of the reason you cycle to get exercise? <S> Sure, treat yourself to a floor pump. <S> No need to go mad though. <A> It must have a valve between the cylinder and the hose, or else you will never build up a high pressure like 5 bar. <S> The pumps that are also suitable for car tires have such valve, because the valve on the tire is opened by the chuck. <S> Unless you add a second valve..
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Cheap bicycle pumps that depend on the tire's own valve are useless, you are just pumping up the dead volume of the hose. I'd say it must have a good sturdy build and should be stable. I've never seen one that didn't have adapters for both types of valve, and YOUR bicycle only has one type, so you won't be constantly changing over. However the extra cost of the premium brand might be weighed up against the value. It may be a long way down the road, but look for a pump who manufacturer offers rebuild kits for their older models.
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How do you keep from coasting too much on a bicycle? Something that has always confused me about working out on a bike. I want a Hybrid to ride for fitness. I do not want the Road bike, mostly because I'm not going to ride on the road (I am too afraid of being run over). The Hybrid will be on paved trails. Plus, my back would not survive leaned over on a Road Bike, though I wish I could. My question is how do you keep from coasting too much? Whenever I think of biking, I inevitably think of hitting hills eventually. Granted I have to go up the hill, but then I'm coasting down. And on flat, how do I keep the wheels moving without coasting? Just the right gear and discipline? One can only go so fast, so sooner or later I will have to stop pedaling, and I also don't think I can go full out all the time. <Q> You are correct - keeping the bike in the appropriate gear is important. <S> that you try to keep constant. <S> Change to lower gears on uphill gradients, higher gears on downhill gradients. <S> There is no rule that says you have to spin your legs madly to keep pedaling. <S> Hybrid bikes tend to have fairly low gearing so coasting on faster downhill sections is normal. <A> Your speed on any kind of bike is limited by the power you can put through the pedals to overcome air resistance. <S> Air resistance increases with speed so <S> , if you pedal with a level of effort that's comfortable for you, you'll eventually reach a speed where your power balances air resistance. <S> Unless you're going down a long or fairly steep hill (or you're fairly powerful), the speed you end up at shouldn't be excessive. <S> So, if you'll pardon the statement of the obvious, all you need to do to avoid coasting is to keep pedalling. <S> Select a gear that means your comfortable level of effort gives an appropriate speed and doesn't have you spinning the pedals like a whirlwind. <S> Yes, you'll probably end up coasting down hills but remember that you had to put extra effort into getting up the hill in the first place and coasting back down again can be a useful time to recover from that. <S> Greg Lemond said, about training, "It doesn't get any easier, you just get faster" and that's basically what's going on, here. <S> Instead of letting it get easier by coasting, keep putting power through the pedals so that you go faster, instead. <S> That doesn't mean you have to go full our or put pro levels of power through the pedals, of course – just that you should keep up whatever level of effort you find appropriate, instead of coasting. <S> If you want to get fitter, pedal slightly harder than is comfortable; if you just want to get from A to B, pedal at a comfortable intensity. <A> Pedal when you need to, coast when you can. <S> What's the problem? <S> If you don't feey you've had enough exercise, ride another mile! <A> I was going to make this a comment, but perhaps it warrants its own answer. <S> Something to keep in mind. <S> When you are coasting downhill <S> it's generally because the bike is taking you faster than you can pedal. <S> Assuming that you eventually wind up at the same elevation you started, this means that that even if you coast down every hill, you'll still be pedaling a majority of the time - maybe even an overwhelming part of the time. <S> For weight loss, for instance, you generally want longer periods of slower exercise above a certain threshold, as fat burns more slowly than carbs. <S> For general fitness you may want to go through different regimes, for instance, starting off slow to get warmed up, the pushing as hard as you can to elevate your heart rate and get some anabolic action going, then dialing it back for some endurance, or whatever. <S> I'm not advocating any specific regimen, as that's up to you to research to decide what is best for you. <S> However, in doing so you may decide that it suits your purposes to attack hills and then recover on the down side. <S> This might sit better with you if you deliberately push harder (how much is up to you) right before you can't push any more (because it's down hill), because you will get your heart rate higher and you will burn more calories and on the way down you'll be able to catch some of your breath back. <A> You can also mix in riding an indoor bike where there's no problem with going to fast since you're not going anywhere. <S> You can either get a trainer for your outdoor bike, or use a stationary bike, perhaps at a gym if you have access. <S> A nice motivational aspect of riding a stationary bike at a gym is that you won't want to stop pedaling in front of everyone. <S> But as mentioned in elsewhere, if you want to pedal more and coast less then pedal more and coast less. <A> There is an underlying misconception in the question that coasting is bad for a fitness training. <S> However, if you can coast, it means you either gained enough kinetic or potential energy to overcome the many different types of friction. <S> In other words you already did the work! <S> Good on you, reap the benefits, let it roll, coast, enjoy, and recover. <S> The next hill will come or you may turn into the wind again. <S> Rather than thinking of coasting as a missed opportunity to train your fitness, think of coasting and accelerating/climbing as a combination. <S> How may we summarise such a training? <S> Intervals! <S> Interval training is widely accepted as an effective form of exercise. <S> High intensity interval training (HIIT)is often claimed as more effective than moderate intensity continous training (MICT) <S> (eg by Mailard et al ). <S> A slight caveat, recent meta studies did not find any clinically relevant effects on weight reduction in adipose patients for neither HIIT or MICT <S> ( Keating et al ) and little difference in effectiveness <S> ( Milanović et al ). <S> All studies found improvements of other markers of physical fitness, for example, VO2max, which quantifies the ability to breath. <S> All together this also means interval training is not worse than constant exercise either. <S> What is more, if HIIT involves coasting on your bike, it certainly is so much more enjoyable . <S> That in turn helps you to be out on your bike much more often. <S> And that really makes the difference!
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If you find yourself going downhill at a speed that even your highest gear makes you pedal too fast, feel free to coast. But remember that on road or track, your first priority is safety. Generally, you should have a preferred pedaling rpm, or cadence There are also different regimens of training for different purposes.
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Have multi-speed non-freewheeling bikes ever been common? Prompted by a recent question I was pondering the idea of bikes with variable gearing (derailleur or otherwise) but without the ability to freewheel. Have such bikes ever been widely used? They would appear to share many of the advantages and disadvantages of fixies but be better at handling hills (up and down) while being more complex. <Q> I read somewhere about a three-speed internal fixed rear hub, the Sturmey-Archer ASC (hmm, here maybe?; now replaced by the Sturmey-Archer S3X), and people were complaining that it had poor reliability. <S> Obviously if something is not used in a big cycling sport (and has access to its R&D budgets), it has little chances for a wider market effort. <A> Surly have a "dingle" which will let you change between 2 sets of fixed gears quickly: https://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/dingle_cog <S> This could be a solution to your problem. <A> In the duplicate of the original question I've posted an answer on a solution, i.e. the 3-speed Sturmey-Archer fixed gear hub. <S> It means that such a solution does exist. <S> Were they widely used? <S> I don't think so <S> , I see it more as a "luxury" (it does exist, it combines some characteristics of more products in one, and if you can afford it, you can have it).
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Anyway, the only advantage of a fixed-gear drive in the hilly area I can think of is that it spares the rim/disc brakes on longer descents as you can somewhat control your speed by resisting the pedalling (similar to Jake brake in trucks).
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What is the difference between city (urban) and mountain bike helmets? Is there any substantial difference between city (on the left) and mountain bike helmets (just examples)? I understand that cycling in mountains is different in terms of risks from city commuting, however, my impression is that the safety standards do not distinguish the two. In my case, I am looking for a helmet for city commuting. Can one say that a city helmet is provably safer in this case? What are its advantages and disadvantages? <Q> In my impression the differences are: <S> Look: as a commuter/city biker you don't want to appear as colourful weirdo / stick out in the supermarket. <S> The colours are therefore more casual. <S> (I actually heard the industry believes one of the main reasons people don't wear helmets is their looks, and invested into designing them like beanies; I myself believe they are compared to scooter helmets unpractical - you cannot store them on the bike and have to carry them around) <S> Ventilation: <S> as commuting is not considered a sport, you're expected to sweat less and in need of less ventilation. <S> Some commuter helmets have (similar to ski helmets) even closable vents. <S> Bear in mind, outdoor sport is biased towards nice weather. <S> Commuting is done in any season. <S> Probably many sport cyclists just skip rain cycling, where a commuter doesn't want to compromise safety (helmet) and a dry head (hat). <S> But some reports point out that the (European) safety standard for bike helmets has its flaws: only central hit from the top is tested, no side coverage tests, impact corresponds to a fall from 1.5m height (5 feet) and speed somewhere around 20 km/h (12.5 mph). <S> The report claimed that side impact and higher speed impacts are where high price helmets and low price helmets differ, but it didn't get more specific. <S> I am not aware of a safety difference as function of target user group. <S> EDIT: It appears the report I meant is not online anymore. <S> There are traces of it here <S> https://erfolgsebook.de/teuer-oder-billig-fahrradhelme-wiso-zdf/ <S> (it was German public television who're not allowed to keep their material online). <A> I've never seen bike helmets described as "city" vs "off-road" or "mountain bike. <S> " I can see where one might trade off between the amount of ventilation offered by a particular brand of bike helmet, perhaps even by season. <S> I've had two bike crashes. <S> I attribute the greater damage in one to the fact that I did not have <S> the helmet well-tightened on/fitted to my head. <S> Not sure that the type of helmet was as big a factor. <S> There seems to be growing evidence that current helmets don't prevent the brain from slamming around inside your skull; there may be newer helmets that help make that less traumatic. <S> So, fit and crash-ratings are what I'd look for. <A> A helmet should be capable of protecting your head on impact. <S> Nothing more and especially nothing less. <S> So based on this requirement you would always go for the full-face helmet used by downhillers, because it protects the largest area of your head. <S> The reasons for choosing lighter helmets are just ventilation and a lower risk of injury based on the type of riding you do. <S> On an Enduro helmet you ditch the front part of the helmet because you don't do extremely hard downhill tracks and such big jumps where you can expect unreasonably high forces on impact, and you also need more ventilation on the uphills. <S> However these helmets still cover a larger area on the back of your head! <S> On a road bike you don't expect a crash on rough underground and for flat roads, a lighter road bike helmet is sufficient. <S> If you look closely these helmets do cover less area on the back than usual mountainbike helmets. <S> This would imply a safety ranking like this: Full-Face > <S> Enduro > Road Helmet <S> You can use the mountainbike helmet for commuting without any worries, just be sure you don't to the opposite. <S> I even used a snowboard helmet for mountainbiking: The covered area is pretty similar to an enduro helmet, the safety standards are even higher because these helmets also have to work in cold conditions. <S> However there is less ventilation which is why I will probably buy a specific enduro helmet.
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But the only relevant data I can think of are the crash ratings--if you hit the ground, to what extent is the helmet judged to have helped prevent some injury. I'm not aware (but open to being better informed) of any differences, per se, between helmets marketed to mountain bike/off-ride riders vs. those marketed to commuters. All studies concerning safety and protection don't indicate a difference.
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My left pedal keeps falling off My left pedal keeps falling off, I think it's loose, or I'm not tightening it properly, but every time I ride my bicycle it gets loose. <Q> There’s a best case scenario and a worst case scenario. <S> Neither is too terrible. <S> Best case scenario: <S> Your pedal is just loose. <S> You can tighten it with a pedal wrench (some pedals can use a hex wrench) — however note <S> that the left pedal is left-hand threaded <S> so it’ll be the reverse of what you are used to. <S> Thus, you have to screw it counter-clockwise to tighten it. <S> Worst case scenario: <S> is that the crank threads themselves are badly damaged. <S> This can happen if you pedaled on it while it was loose — because the crank is usually soft aluminum and the pedal is hardened steel. <S> If the crank threads are worn, then no amount of tightening will work. <S> Instead, you’ll have to take the pedal to your local bike shop where they will drill out the threads, tap slightly larger ones, and insert a helicoil. <S> This will allow your pedal to go back on. <S> It shouldn’t be too expensive, usually one-half hour of shop labor plus the cost of the helicoil (5-10 eurodollars). <S> So neither scenario is too terrible. <S> Good luck! <S> P.s. <S> don’t ever use thread lock to try to retain a loose pedal. <S> Pedals by design are always tightening themselves when pedaled normally . <S> If a pedal is loosening itself, it’s not because of screw loosening forces, it’s because the crank threads are bad, and threadlock will not help. <S> However, if the threads are still good then threadlock can cause the pedal to bind terribly such that the pedal won’t ever come off. <S> Instead, you should grease the threads of pedals rather than ever use threadlock. <A> In my experience it is the pedal arm that is the problem. <S> When crank bolt loosens it wears away what should be a snug fit <S> to become slightly rounded hence however much you tighten will always come loose <A> The bearings on the pedal are stiff. <S> if the pedal is sealed then you will probably need a new one. <S> If it is not sealed and is serviceable then you might attempt to fix or replace the bearings. <S> What happens is that when the bearings on the pedal become stiff, the whole pedal with its axle will spin in the crank threads instead of the pedal spinning around the axle, causing it to unscrew and eventually fall out. <S> Pedals are self-tightening by design only in the normal condition of good bearings, where the main acting force on the threads is precession .
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When the bearings stop moving freely, your force gets transferred to the threads, thus defeating precession and unscrewing the pedal.
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Could a flat tyre two days later be due to a clumsy service? I had my bike serviced on Monday. Part way through the workshop called to inform me that they thought both tyres were perished and needed replacing. I trusted their judgement and gave them the go ahead. It was fine on Tuesday and Wednesday. Today - Thursday - I got it out this morning and discovered the front tyre was flat. I re-inflated it and rode to work and it seemed fine. But it was completely flat again by lunchtime, so it's a slow puncture. I haven't ridden any out of the ordinary routes, nor am I aware of having ridden over anything that would cause a puncture. So, obviously, I'm now wondering if the service might have had something to do with this. I don't want to take it back to the workshop and start throwing accusations around without some evidence. So is this likely just coincidence? Or, if there's a significant chance they might have damaged the tube while replacing the tyres, is there anything I can do to prove it? <Q> To me, this sounds like coincidence. <S> If the shop had punctured the tube and caused a leak, I don't think it would have held air for two days before showing any signs of going flat. <S> Especially given the fact that you reinflated the tube and it went flat again by lunchtime. <S> The leak is fast enough to make the tube go flat in just a few hours, so it seems unlikely that the tube would be OK for Tuesday and Wednesday and only start leaking on Thursday. <S> When replacing the tube, you should look for the cause of the leak. <S> If you find the side of the tube leaking, that might indicate that it got pinched by the tire during installation <A> Highly unlikely that tire installation was just clumsy enough to cause a slow puncture that appeared a couple of days later. <S> Pinching the tube with a tire lever would cause a relatively large hole or rip. <S> I think you would have a hard time convincing your repair shop <S> they caused the problem in any case. <S> Patch the leak and move on. <A> I have just repaired my second flat in two days, on a bike that has hardly been used since its last servicing. <S> I did not find the reason for the first flat, but for the second I did find a small piece of metal in the tire. <S> So I am pretty sure the hole comes from the way the guy worked on the bike. <S> Not on purpose but still..... <A> I find this is now a very common pattern - a (usually slow) leak within the first 2-3 weeks of putting a new tube in. <S> I think that 3 things have happened <S> Tube rubber is not very rubbery anymore. <S> Where the spoke nipples are, the tubes permanently stretch and thin out, and often times actually burst. <S> I assume this means more plastic and less latex in the mix. <S> I thought I was imagining this until I was under an old house, where there were old 26" wheels,tubes. <S> The tube for the 1-3/8" tyre is the same as I buy now for a 2" tyre. <S> Todays 35mm tubes are the same as I used to get for 27mm. <S> Tubes come from the factory with weak spots that fail in the first few weeks of use. <S> Mostly slow leaks, but sometimes they just get 1/4" splits in the rubber, just sitting parked. <S> patches fail more, I think because of the far greater tube stretch. <S> Possibly the non-rubber doesn't take the glue, as failed patches can be pulled off. <S> I recently discovered that 29ers are actually 700C, so I use 29x2" tubes for 700cx35mm tyres, and so far it seems to be working out. <S> So I recommend to get oversized tubes if available. <S> Do NOT use tubes at the upper part of the size range. <S> If it says it is for 30-37mm tyres, that means 30, and definitely not 37.
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I think the tubes are crap, and probably have bubbles (voids) in the rubber that fail quickly when stretched. You might be able to find a foreign object that caused it, but it's possible you won't with a typical puncture. Un-inflated tube circumference is much less than what it used to be. I now try to use "oversize" tubes.
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It is dangerous to bike with 5/36 spokes broken? I've got an old bike (not a sport bike, just an old fashioned granny bike). The chain was super loose so I have to tighten it, the tires are fine. The rear wheel, although reasonable aligned for how abandoned the bike looks has 5 over 36 spokes broken (3 on one side and 2 on the other). I am using the bike but I am a bit scared it can break down at any moment.Is that likely or not at all? <Q> Definitely not recommended to ride a wheel with broken spokes. <S> Even if the wheel does not catastrophically break and result in injury, the bike could leave you stranded. <S> If the bike is old and has not been maintained, you should get it inspected for other safety issues, especially proper functioning of the brakes. <S> There are a few questions on here about inspecting a bike for safety issues. <S> Here's one I found after a quick search: Safety check for a used bike <A> " You're basically asking people to evaluate an unknown risk for you – we don't really know the condition of the bike, we don't know how you'll ride it. <S> It's possible that somebody who rode the bike could understand its limitations and therefore ride safely on it. <S> But, even then, it's hard to advise somebody else, who doesn't have that feel for the machine, how to ride it, what situations to avoid and so on. <S> And how terrible would we feel <S> if we said it was probably OK to ride, you took that advice and ended up in hospital or worse? <S> Ultimately, if you can't tell by feel what is working and what isn't, you should just get it fixed. <A> You will probably be safe to ride it. <S> If the back wheel seizes it would just skid/stop. <S> I have seen wheels collapse catastrophically, but it has always been from impacting a curb or car or something directly at high speed. <S> I imagine with five spokes broken the rim would be more susceptible to that sort of catastrophic failure on impact <S> but I don't think you are risking that happening if you stick to smooth ground. <S> There are people who ride bikes with 5 broken spokes and not even notice. <S> So, it's by no means something you can jusy ignore long-term <S> and I wouldn't go bombing down any hills like that, but if you try riding it <S> and it works and stops, you shouldn't really have anything to worry about besides not rolling very efficiently and eventually (maybe quickly) breaking more spokes.
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Since it is the back wheel, you are not risking the front wheel seizing on something and getting thrown over the handlebars. In terms of safety, it's very difficult to give any advice other than "get it fixed.
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Why does a loose pedal destroy the crank threads? Can someone cite with sources the process by which a loose pedal pretty quickly destroys the crank arm threads necessitating a helicoil repair? I'm interested in how the thread on the crankarm gets destroyed in these cases. Shouldn't the pedaling action tighten the pedal back onto the crank if Sheldon Brown is correct ? <Q> Once loose, the pedal spindle will describe a cone as the crank rotates. <S> This concentrates force at certain points in the crank threads, leading to damage. <S> Top image shows the pedal spindle in the threaded hole in the crank. <S> The threads are fully engaged and tightened, and forces are distributed. <S> Note there is space between the male and female threads (somewhat exaggerated). <S> Bottom image show what what happens what the thread is loose. <S> The spindle can move around in the threaded hole in response to changing pedaling forces, and forces get concentrated at the red dots. <A> If the pedals is loose and purely rotated by pedaling, the pedal will tighten. <S> However, the pedaling motion is not purely a twisting motion, but instead a large downward force is applied. <S> This puts increased strain on the threads. <S> The more the pedals moves in response to this downward force of pedaling, the more the force will be concentrated on a small section of the threads. <S> This will cause these threads to fail, and as the pedal slowly works its way out, even more threads will fail. <A> The best explanation I heard is to visualise a pencil held vertically in a loosely-closed fist, such that the pencil leans at an angle. <S> Then move your hand in a flat circle so the pencil rolls around and along your index finger. <S> Notice that The pencil rotates as it moves. <S> This is the tightening action of the pedal spindle in the crank. <S> The pencil touches your index finger the whole way. <S> This represents the first couple of threads in the crank and the pressures pit in place <S> So? <S> If the pedal spindle has any play, the movement will slowly grind away the first thread because of the increased pressure and that it comes and goes with every revolution. <S> In theory its doing the same on the other side too, but we never notice that damage. <S> As the pedal spindle "self-tightens" it also presses the end of the pedal thread into the crank with applies a side force to the threads of the crank, also deforming and "squashing" the threads away. <A> The pedalling forces don't screw the pedal in very effectively if the bearings are good. <S> You can demonstrate this without damage by putting a bike on a stand and trying to screw in the pedal by hand-pedalling, only touching the parts your foot would touch (engage a turn or two first).
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If the crank thread has taken a tiny bit of damage and is stiff (or it's just stiff anyway), pedalling won't screw the pedal in at all.
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Protect chipping frame from metal bike lock with Sugru What's the best method to stop a Kryptonite Mini d-lock scratching/chipping an aluminium frame? Stickers have already been applied as a first layer of protection. Is there something similar to the LifeLine Rubber Frame Protector that could wrap around the metal parts of the lock to prevent metal—metal contact? Or is this wide enough to work by itself? My second thought was to use Sugru? In this case, what is the optimal pattern to apply this to the d-lock? I thought several rings around the circumference of the lock at perhaps 1 cm intervalz? Or would a spiral be better? Or just a line on the inner circumference? <Q> Any protection must be applied to the bike, as dirt between the lock and bike will abrade both, but the bike is more fragile and valuable. <S> The only way to avoid dirt is to not use the bike. <S> Stickers are good but have to be replaced fairly often. <S> Cable ties and clear repair tape are also useful. <S> I've used reflective tape on the seat stay of one bike where the D lock abrades the paint. <S> An old fashioned solution that works very well is to use an old inner tube on the bike, strapped or knotted in place <A> I use sleeves made of old inner tubes. <S> It is soft enough to prevent scratches but still durable. <S> Slide it over the "U" portion and put another piece over the lock body leaving holes in the tube for the U to slide into the catch. <A> You can use something like 3M scotch 2228 tape on either the lock or the part of the frame you want to protect. <S> Alternatively, you could wrap the lock in duct tape which is common practice with U locks. <S> The best way to protect your frame from your lock is to wrap the lock in something soft because protecting the frame will only protect a certain spot. <A> Heatshrink <S> I've successfully used modern heatshrink tube for a lot of things. <S> You would get an appropriate size tube, and slip it over the open lock. <S> Then apply heated air from a hairdryer or a hot-air gun tool and the tube shrinks, taking the shape of the object below. <S> As you can see it comes in different sizes, and shrinks by about 50% depending on the type. <S> I use 30mm and 35mm tube on handlebars, and 1.5mm tube on inner cables. <S> For a lock, 8mm-15mm would be about right. <S> For going over a chain, then 20mm-30mm might be appropriate. <S> If one layer is not enough protection, you can double up, or more! <S> And this stuff is cheap - <S> a metre at alibaba is perhaps 1~3 dollars plus freight.
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Wrapping around the lock like you suggest is a fine method.
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Do GPS computers always need online account I am looking to buy a GPS computer. I have looked at Giant's NeosTrack and Garmin's Edge series. Looking at the manuals, it is not entirely clear to me if you have to set up an online account. I would rather not because I value my privacy. The main thing I would like to do is transfer my routes between computer and device. I have no need for services like Strava Does anyone have experience on setting up these devices, or recommend one which does not require an online account? <Q> Depends what you want to do with the information. <S> If you just want to see your location on screen and nothing more, then no online account is required. <S> The device maker would want your information for registering the device, and warranty. <S> That would be a different matter, but doing this may give you access to firmware and map updates. <S> Finally, if your device wants internet access but has no internal cellular SIM, it might pair with a cellphone via bluetooth etc, to get internet access. <S> This is often done through an app on the phone. <S> Or you have to wait till you get home in range of a wireless AP to upload the device's recording. <S> I don't have a garmin personally, I use an android phone with ANT+ to talk with a HRM and a Cadence sensor. <S> The phone has a data internet link when in-range, and also has wireless ethernet when I'm at home. <S> I need a strava account, and a cellphone account, and a working internet connection at home. <A> As can any of the outdoor models, eg the Etrex, Oregon etc. <S> There is a handlebar mount available for these, so you can use them on your bike if you want. <S> Newer Garmin models work as a USB mass storage device. <S> ie you plug it into your computer, and it appears as a disk drive. <S> So you can just copy files on and off, usually in FIT, TCX or GPX format. <S> Some models also have the option of Bluetooth or wifi for uploading. <S> These will require a Garmin Connect account, and the app on a phone or tablet. <S> But you don't have to use this, you can just plug in a USB cable as above. <S> There is a variety of free software you can use on your own computer for viewing rides etc, eg TurtleSport - fairly simple, lets you view rides on a map, and basic statistics GoldenCheetah - good for more detailed analysis of power etc Garmin Training Center - now discontinued, may not work properly with newer devices For plotting routes, to transfer to the GPS. <S> Depends on what sort of maps you want to use, some options include Garmin BaseCamp <S> QMapShack <S> Also some websites will let you draw a route, then save it as a file, without an account. <S> eg GPSies <S> For updating the firmware, you can use Garmin WebUpdater software. <A> The short answer is not. <S> Although GPS devices with maps and routing existed before social media exploded and Garmin were the industry leaders in this, it no longer makes commercial sense to build products based on this model. <S> So where does that leave someone who does not want to leave a footprint on the internet - fundamentally you are stuck in limbo, no one wants to provide you a modern product. <S> The solution is rather than avoid online registration, set up an internet presence for just that one purpose. <S> Open as gmail account <S> "BobsGarminAccount.gmail.com" and sign in with this when using Garmin. <S> You will have the advantage of working within the system, getting updates etc, while remaining (relatively) anonymous. <S> Maintaining a separate digital identity for this purpose can be difficult, but it is, theoretically possible. <S> Avoiding logging into the shadow identity account from your normal pc or phone/home WiFi/ <S> regular Starbucks WiFi AP might be required, and may not be practical, but it is possible. <A> What you are trying to avoid is probably in fact almost unavoidable these days. <S> A bike computer head unit that uses a iPhone or Android phone with an app for GPS that does not specifically require creating an account still creates an identity and record of your activities that the computer vendor then stores, sells etc. <S> etc.
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All Garmin Edge models can be used without any sort of online account. However if you want to push your ride recording/location to a service like strava etc, then you'll need an account with them.
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How to lock up a bike with a rear wheel lock? Really did try searching for this but couldn't find an answer. I'm getting a bike with a rear wheel lock like this: Since the rear wheel is locked to the frame then would securing the front wheel and frame to a solid object with a ulock/chain be enough? Bike is around $1500 in the US, higher than average larceny in my city but not known for bike theft. Here are my options 1) Rear wheel lock + ulock or chain around the front wheel, frame, and bike rack = 2 locks in total 2) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + pitlock skewer for the front wheel = 2 locks + skewer 3) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + ulock around the front wheel and frame = 3 locks in total 4) Rear wheel lock + chain around rear wheel, frame, and bike rack + ulock around the front wheel and frame + pitlock skewers on the front wheel, saddle, everything <Q> Living in a country where this is the standard bike lock I have learned to work with it. <S> For a short stop where the bike is at little risk or while getting your second lock out, always lock this lock as soon as stopped. <S> Then you get a second lock out, U-lock, a cable or chain as per your choice or your insurance requirements or a combination of those. <S> As the rear wheel is locked to the frame, you can now select to use your second lock for the front wheel to the frame and both to a fixed point. <S> Or you can get a cable to be locked into your ring lock, either as a separate entrance to the lock for which the lock has its special hole, or one with a loop to go round the locking pin. <S> And use that to fix the bike to a fixed point when you chose to lock the front wheel to just the frame. <S> I have always chosen a separate cable lock (when insurance allowed) or a chain to connect the frame to a fixed point, but my bike is not as valuable and always one of many where parked. <S> If no good quality fixed point is available, I would not leave the bike there. <A> I can only offer my opinion: a $1500 bike is quite an attraction for thieves when parked in public space late a night: in front of library, station, cinema, pool, gym, or pub. <S> I would not recommend using a such bike in this situation, no matter what locks you use. <S> If you are using your bike in less public situations (to and from work, shopping, mostly during the day), locking frame and front wheel with a U-lock to a stationary object in combination with the rear lock is probably good enough. <S> Any thieve would have to deal with two locks, which is quite a deterrent. <A> Such a lock is enough to stop casual riding off, so fine while you pop into a cafe to order before coming back out to where you can see the bike, or somewhere busy with friendly cyclists. <S> I use a token cable lock for the same purpose. <S> For locking up in the same place every day, overnight, or for several hours, it's no more than a nice extra along the lines of a pinhead or pitlock skewer except you have to lock and unlock it. <S> You should still lock up properly, and to my mind <S> that's a solid lock securing the frame and back wheel to something solid, with an independent flexible lock on the front wheel (and frame) as a minimum. <S> The exception is very heavy bikes which are hard to move with the back wheel not rolling (such as some e-bikes), when you can afford to be a little more relaxed about then being carried away - one solid lock to an immovable object would be enough.
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For a valuable bike I would likely use a good quality U-lock, a good quality fixed point and use that to lock the front wheel and frame.
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How much should a long distance touring bike weigh? I'm planning in the far future to do a long ride of around 3000km (~1864mi). As I just have a single speed, I've been looking at what is in the market "designed" for that purpose in the price range 1000-2000€/$ and everything is around 14-15kg (30-33lb). Is that normal for such a bike, or is it too much, considering that you still have to carry some luggage? <Q> People tour on everything -- <S> bso 's , specialized touring bikes, mountain bikes, etc. <S> Find something that works for you and is within your budget. <S> You need a lot of planning to do something like that, which will affect what you carry (e.g. are you camping, staying in hotels, etc.), and you need that information and experience to choose the right bike for you. <S> For reference, a standard touring bike (like the Trek 520) is 13 kg in disc form for a 57 cm. <S> Note that the weight isn't that big of a deal; how it handles long rides carrying loads and how tough it is (e.g. are the wheels going to break in a little pot hole) is far more important. <A> That seems reasonable. <S> I've got an extra large Genesis Tour de Fer, and I've just weighed it. <S> With front and rear racks, full mudguards, a D lock (itself 1.3 kg), etc. <S> it comes in at around 17 kg. <S> That's set up for commuting, plus the front rack but minus the toolkit. <S> This was a £1000 bike so in the range you're looking at, and all the comparable bikes I considered were similar. <S> I can ride it up 25%+ slopes in that state, though slowly and not for long, and have done a flattish 100 km in 3:38. <S> With the 35mm tyres it also handles rough tracks pretty well. <S> It handles just the same as it does stripped down. <S> I had thought I'd tour more and do fewer long day rides. <S> I may consider a lighter wheelset for unloaded riding when I feel like spending the money, but I'm expecting to take it up the Col d'Izoard just stripping off the racks and mudguards. <S> Compare to a hypothetical 10 kg tourer, assuming a rider weight of 80 kg <S> you have <S> ~5% more weight, so that much less acceleration and extra climbing effort. <S> You will be slower uphill than on a lighter machine, but you'll have the gears for it <S> and you'll be able to keep going all day once the bike is set up to fit you properly. <S> If you're doing very light touring ("credit-card touring") and only need to carry your stuff for the day and a small overnight bag, you have much lighter options, like frame bags or a rack that fits any round seatpost but only carries up to around 10 kg. <S> You could put these on a <10 kg aluminium road bike, for example. <A> I've been looking at what is in the market "designed" for that purpose in the price range <S> 1000-2000€/$ <S> and everything is around 14-15kg (30-33lb) <S> [...] Is that normal for such a bike <S> Most touring specific bikes will weigh more compared to similar none touring bikes for a number of reasons: Frames and wheels are stronger and heavier. <S> This is by design to ensure the bike remains predictable and stable under load. <S> As you add weight the frame will become more prone to flexing, which can result in undesirable behaviors such as speed wobbles or tail wagging. <S> As such, touring bikes tend to be built with stronger/heavier wheels and frames to reduce flexing under load. <S> The stiffer frame can also lead to the bikes feel “less lively” when ridden without a load. <S> Stronger frame and wheels are also less likely to fail under extreme abuse (e.g., rough dirt roads) as compared to a bike with a lighter build quality. <S> Components are usually stronger and heavier . <S> Extra components . <S> Most touring bikes will come with more add-ons such as fenders, racks and lights. <S> All of these add to the weight of the bike. <S> Given items 1-3, the 30-33 lbs weight is generally reasonable. <S> is it too much, considering that you still have to carry some luggage? <S> Not at all. <S> As other answers point out, a couple extra pounds is small compared to your total weight of bike + gear + rider. <S> Unless you are doing some some kind of self-supported ultra endurance race (e.g., T ranscontinental Race ) this really won't matter. <S> Finally, I just wanted to point out that most bikes are over engineered to accommodate a range of rider weights and as such will do fine with a light load even though they are not designated as a “touring” bike.
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Similar to the frame and wheels other components are often selected for strength and durability over weight, which further adds to the heavier weight relative to a comparable non-touring bike. Unless you have a decent amount of experience with touring, I wouldn't worry about something that does 3000 km tours without breaking a sweat. My first touring trips (camping) are coming up soon, and I've test ridden with the bike loaded to about 40--45kg.
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Bike or e-bike/trike good for the rain My aging mom is looking to start biking to work as a way to stay healthy. But as an aging women she needs certain things so that she feels safe and comfortable riding a bike about 15 minutes each way. It must be somewhat covered to provide protection from the elements. 3 wheels would make her feel a lot more safe. An electric assist would be very helpful. It can't be super expensive. Does there exist a bike that matches these requirements or at least designs to create such a bike? <Q> Short Answer <S> I believe the short answer to your question is no. <S> The first three requirements that you list put you in the 'deeply customized' bicycle neighborhood. <S> This is in direct opposition to your fourth requirement--custom bikes are very expensive. <S> Additionally, without providing information about the climate where you live, local cycling infrastructure (bike paths/lanes/etc.), or your budget, this question is nearly impossible to answer. <S> Possible Solutions <S> Nothing makes me happier than people deciding to be healthier by way of bicycle commuting, so I'd like to offer you some ideas about how to get your mother on a bike! <S> Jumping into commuting can be difficult! <S> I'm not sure how long it's been since your mother was on a bicycle, but it seems like her expectations are divorced from the reality of bike commuting. <S> Does she ride regularly? <S> Can you ride with her on the weekends to build up her experience with modern bicycles and her confidence on the road? <S> I believe that she the following benefits from just getting out on the road: Strength (no electric assist) <S> Balance (regular two wheels?) <S> Confidence <S> If it isn't possible to ride with her, encourage her to join a local cycling club (if available) and ride with the older group. <S> Once she finds out whether this is something she can commit to (or not), you can start making plans to set her up with a commuting rig! <S> Other tips: <S> Buy used! <S> (this will keep the cost of gear down) <S> Use a rain suit in the rain <A> Look at how often it rains during her intended commutes. <S> In the Netherlands, which is known for 'always being rainy' you need your waterproofs about 6 days a year when commuting 5 days per week. <S> A good set of waterproofs which is easy to put on and take off is more useful than a cover that always catches wind and will likely not protect against rain in side winds. <S> Plan the route (as far as possible) <S> such that the quiet roads or bicycle paths are used and busy roads are crossed at traffic lights or other 'easy to use' points. <S> Try out several bikes, rentals or loans for a few days if available. <S> While she is still unsure about riding, easy access to the ground is good. <S> But the ride will be easier/smoother when the seat is a bit higher up. <S> So I would suggest a bike that allows both, the lower position and the 'proper' high up one. <S> If she is really not able to ride a two wheeled bike, think about a recumbent trike. <S> Those are available with e-bike tech as well. <S> Not only is the bike stable, also the position of the rider on the bike is stable. <S> You are lower down (gives more stability) but you are wider and when viewed really seen. <S> I would not go for the extremely low ones, but for one about the same height as a dining chair. <S> Yes, you get wet when it rains, but are you made of sugar? <S> I survived getting rained on all my life and still commute by bike. <A> Unlikely to match all your requirements. <S> An adult trike offers exercise, and stability. <S> But they're not overly cheap new. <S> Weather protection comes in the form of a helmet and perhaps a rain poncho, and even knee-high gumboots. <S> And electrification of these would be limited to a front-wheel kitset only. <S> On the plus side, you can locate the batteries in the cargo tray. <S> I'm sure you can google for "electric adult trike" and come up with some pricing, but such answers are off topic for SE. <A> Most ebikes are not weatherproof. <S> Some can take a light drizzle but many cannot withstand sustained rain or immersion (such as travel through deep puddles). <S> The problem is the high voltages. <S> It’s hard to weatherproof when you’re operating at 36-72 volts. <S> The most water resistant are the $5000+ mountain bikes with sealed Bosch mid-drives and Bosch batteries. <S> But the ebikes that you can get for under $2000 lack the weather sealing needed for truly rainy environments. <S> Just read the reviews on ebike sites. <S> The same goes for aftermarket kits - such as what would be needed to make an electric assist trike.
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A little drizzle should not stop a person from riding when a good coat is used and a hood/hat or helmet with rain cover if a helmet is the norm where you are. Have her try out bike seats in different heights. Familiarity with route, weather, and mechanics of modern bicyles I have used a recumbent trike for 5 years, just for the fun of it, and can certainly recommend it.
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My Supercycle chain keeps breaking randomly I have an almost brand new Supercycle bike and for some reason, the chain keeps breaking on it. What could I be doing wrong <Q> You have a low quality bike. <S> The low quality shows as failures in various parts, in your case the chain. <S> No need to go fancy and expensive, anything that is sold in a bike shop should do the job. <A> SuperCycle is the housebrand of a range of extremely inexpensive bicycles sold by Canadian Tire, a discount warehouse store. <S> The retail price is Canadian $109 or so. <S> To get to this price point, the cheapest possible parts, the absolute worst materials, and the minimalist of assembly attention is used. <S> So basically you can expect things to break or be impossible to adjust to work properly. <S> In bicycling parlance, we call these “ride once put away (ROPO)” bikes or Bicycle Shaped Objects ( bso ). <S> You could replace the chain with a better one but next week the brakes are likely to fail, or the wheel bearings. <S> It’s very expensive to keep a BSO running and at some point (perhaps now) you’re better off trying to return it if you’re within the return policy and getting a good used bike from your local dealer. <A> The cheapest and easier fix, is to replace the broken link with a 'quick link'. <S> This way you shouldn't have to break the chain and weaken it. <S> The best fix is to get a new chain. <S> Any cheap chain will do. <S> Over time chains tend to elongate, just a little. <S> As it will corrode over time, said fractures will open more and stretch, on every single link on your chain. <S> Even though it will look fine from afar. <S> When you break a link it is only the first warning to change an overdue chain.
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An immediate solution would be to replace it (either chain or the entire bike) with a decent quality one. If the material is not tiptop then it will suffer some small fractures and corrosion will set on it.
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How to configure an Avid Speed Dial brake I got this brake lever on my new bike and I am looking help how to configure this. I do not know what purpose the red screw has on the top I reckon this has something to do with the name "Speed Dial" but I cannot figure it out, neither on Google nor on YouTube. I just get shopping links but nothing like an instruction. Since this is the first time I am using a disc brake I would like to know if the back small wheel (where the brake cable comes in) has the same purpose as it has using V-Brakes? <Q> Just google 'avid speed dial 7 manual': <S> https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/Bv5FmtpDsTVHw9CpVeB-YkdnOyinFNaPxEkOXTgCQdA/mtime:1372788167/sites/default/files/techdocs/speed-dial-7-install.pdf <S> Sometimes you just have to go old school and read the manual, rather than looking for someone to explain it on YouTube :-) <S> From the diagram in the user guide one can see that the adjustment moves the attachment point of the cable to change how much cable is pulled for per unit of lever pull. <S> At one extreme the caliper will engage quickly, but more force on the lever will be required, and less modulation control will be available (will be harder to stop the wheel locking); at the other end the brake will engage more slowly, but you will need less force on the lever and modulation will be easier. <A> Reach Adjustment <S> - Set screw brings lever closer or farther away from the bar. <S> Barrel Adjuster - allows you to adjust brake cable tension. <S> "Speed Dial" <S> - change leverage (i.e., lever throw vs cable pull). <A> The big black dial is your standard inline cable tension adjustment, so <S> yes, the same as a normal V-Brake. <S> Based on the description here , it appears the red dial is the "Speed Dial" adjustment outlined below.
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If I understand correctly, this is for changing modulation so the same lever can be used with either linear pull cantilevers or disc brakes. Avid does provide a user manual for the Speed Dial 7 that describes what the different adjusters do.
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Should I change my Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre? I'm here trying to decide if I should get a new Schwalbe Marathon Plus for my touring bike. I've just finished a 6000km tour in Australia, riding on paved roads with a heavy load. Here's the looks of it: Next month I'll be leaving again for another 5000km tour, this time on rough dirt roads (Central Asia) but with a much, much lighter load. Do you think that this tyre is going to make it through ? Should I swap front/back ? <Q> There's a good thread already on wear of this model of tire here: <S> When does a Marathon Plus tire (not) need replacing? . <S> I'll repeat a shorter version of my answer from there: <S> The Schwalbe Smart Guard is an extra layer of rubber between the road side and tube side of the tire, and depending on tire model it is one of a few non-black colors. <S> Check if you can see the colored middle layer anywhere, if so , replace the tire since you've broken through to the middle layer and the road side of the tire could start delaminating. <S> If you want to keep using your tire but are getting lots of flats, check for small embedded puncturing agents e.g. small pieces of glass or radial belt wires from transport truck tire blowouts. <S> If the rear is very worn and front looks good, resist the temptation to swap them between front and rear wheels (AKA rotating the tires). <S> A worn tire is a greater candidate for blowouts, which are more likely to cause injury when they happen on the front wheel. <S> If you don't want to replace both tires, then chuck the worn rear tire, move the partially worn front tire to the rear, and put a nice new tire on the front. <S> More info on this from Sheldon Brown here . <S> FYI, I finished an 8,200km tour on these tires with no punctures, and a decent but not complete level of wear on the rear. <S> I would not have started another long tour with the same tires. <S> IMO, your tire probably has 5,000km left in it, but you should suck it up and buy a new tire before your next tour so you're less likely to need to replace mid-tour with the challenges that come along with that (Where to buy replacement? <S> Do you need to get them shipped to a hotel? <S> Etc.). <S> When you're finished your second tour, you'll probably have 4 Marathon tires that all have a decent bit of life left in them <S> and you can run them into the ground commuting around town or Randoneurring, situations in which it's not a big deal to have a tire wear out <S> (just replace it at home at the end of the day). <S> That way, you've got plenty of tread for your upcoming tour, and no tires are going to waste long term. <A> As previously said, I'd recommend changing the tyre before you go for this tour. <S> You have to take into account: <S> The load of the bicycle, rider and luggage can have an effect on your tyre wear. <S> Your riding style can cause things to wear either unevenly or in an unusual manner. <S> Relying on your rear brake or locking it can pronounce wear on the rear tyre, for example, or very rarely banking over during a turn. <S> Tyre age is a big thing. <S> Also, heat cycles. <S> Bicycle's tyres aren't likely to get too hot, but they are designed to a minimum, not only for costs, but for general use. <S> The rough terrain will really punish your tyres, luggage weight or not. <S> You wouldn't buy a racing slick for downhill mountain-biking, for example. <S> However, an option is to buy a new tyre and carry with you. <S> You can get your money's worth out of that tyre and change it mid-way through your tour if you need to. <A> I commute on marathon plus that are more worn than that. <S> However I wouldn't set out on a long tour with a tyre in that state, especially on rough roads far from the nearest bike shop. <S> If you're fitting something new you could take the chance to consider whether the marathon plus is what you want for that ride. <S> It might well be, but you might be better off with something like a marathon mondial if it's going to be really rough. <A> You drove quite a bit on these tires. <S> I recommend to ask the manufacturer for the life of these tires. <S> That is how many kilometers you can use them. <S> But 5000 is a lot. <A> I replaced both of my Marathon Plus tires after 5,000-5,500 km on my last tour. <S> The one in front developed a bulge in one side and appeared in danger of blowing out, so I proactively replaced it. <S> About 500 km later the rear one appeared to have worn down as I finally noticed the colored rubber through it at a couple of points - after two flats in two hours. <S> I rode mostly on paved roads and cycle paths, and over countless cracks and potholes, though with some few km of gravel roads and the occasional singletrack, with fully loaded rear panniers... <S> If those were my tires I would replace them before going out on another tour.
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A tyre should be bought to match the conditions it's used in. There's plenty of life left in that tyre.
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What tool do I need to remove this Joytech freehub? I have tried 10mm allen: too small, spins freely, with very little grip. Hub brand: Joytech On the outer side it has 9 ball bearings. Video showing right/drive side: Video showing left/non-drive side: It is a low-end (BSO-ish maybe), 170USD hybrid bicycle, bought from Decathlon.8 gears;Bicycle model: B'Twin Riverside 120;Derailleur model: B'Twin. I'm not a bicycle expert, this is my first freehub removal attempt.I'm not sure how this freehub is secured to the hub; any details are greatly appeciated. <Q> I believe this one is a 12mm allen inserted through the non-drive side. <S> 11mm is out there too. <S> Usually what I do is clamp an L-type one in a vise, long end up. <A> Inside, where the axle goes through, it is like a 12-point socket. <S> A 11 mm or a 7/16 <S> " hex key (Allen wrench) will fit. <S> You can also use a 3/8" square drive like for a socket wrench. <S> I used the latter. <S> The threads are right-handed. <S> You can work from either side. <S> Drive side counterclockwise. <S> Non-drive clockwise (driving it away from you takes the freehub off in that case). <S> The back of my freehub center piece (pawl carrier) has a 10-lug pattern that engages a female internally lugged pattern on the wheel's hub. <S> Mine is opposite what is shown in the video above. <S> The lugs trasmit the torque when you pedal. <S> On the drive side, a think steel ring sits over the wheel bearing balls. <S> With a nylon tire lever, I pried this out. <S> The bearing race has two slot 180 degrees apart. <S> The race is threaded onto the center piece of the freehub. <S> The threads are left-handed. <S> You need a tool that is 1 1/8" wide and about 1/8" thick. <S> The slots are 0.150" wide, but 1/8" will do. <S> Mine has 25 loose balls on each end. <S> A light steel spring holds three pawls against the center piece of mine. <S> These engage 15 ramped teeth on the inside of the freehub body. <S> One of my pawls had a burr on the tip of it, which I removed with a whetstone. <S> I hope that is what was causing the occasional skipping when I pedal hard. <S> Reassembly is the reverse of assembly. <S> Don't lose those balls. <S> I glued them in the races with grease. <S> Don't use too much grease inside the freehub, or the pedals will turn when you coast. <A> This looks mighty familiar. <S> I've been having similar problems removing the freehub from my 2014 Boardman CX Comp. <S> In the end, I got it off with a Park Tool 11mm hex wrench . <S> It was long enough to go all the way though which meant I could use a bit more leverage from an 11mm socket ratchet on the other end to free it. <S> You can't get the 12mm shank in far enough for the 11mm to engage. <A> Reviving an old thread here. <S> Me and my partner are doing a long cyclo touring trip and taking the chance for a stop to do some bicycle maintenance. <S> I wanted to address my freehub since it's been doing some noise and doesn't seem to roll very smoothly... <S> Having a look and if needed cleaning and putting some appropriate grease. <S> Prefer to do it now than in the middle of nowhere in Asia... <S> Supposedly it's a joytech D342RCC. <S> I found this thread and based on it bought a 12mm <S> and it does fit on the non drive side. <S> I was planning on putting the wheel in a vise and turning the wheel instead (in corresponding directions) but just wanted to confirm that i got the directions <S> right... <S> ?Also, is it expected to be lock super tight? <S> How strong should I go? <S> Bit afraid of ending up breaking it now instead... <S> Many thanks for any insight!!
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Unscrewing the bearing race will allow access to the internal bearings. Don't try and use an 11mm socket as they all seem to be like this, with an 11mm end on a 12mm shank. I tried by hand rorttating counterclockwise (looking at non drive side) and it didn't budge.. A long socket would also work but it would need to be very long. The bearing race is tightened against a pair of crush washers and is crazy tight.
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How can I improve my downhill mountain bike as a commuter? I have started commuting recently to work and university with my bike. It's not ideal, but as it is, I'm not willing to invest in a new one, hence why I'm looking for suggestions to improve my current one. Weight is around 20-22kgs. The wheels are Schwalbe Big Betty Performance Line 26" x 2.40" on the front, Kenda Kinetics 26 x 2.35 on the rear. On my way to work and uni I'm mainly on roads but do encounter some cobbled roads and uneven terrain. I previously used the bike on downhill trails. As of right now, I'm averaging around 8-9MPH or 15KM/H. I'd love to get that up to 20KM/H. <Q> You really can’t change it that much. <S> A dual-suspension downhill mtb will always have limitations, most notably its weight, wheel size and width, and geometry. <S> Instead, get a used, 1970s, steel, road bike for your commute . <S> It should cost you roughly $50-150 euros or dollars. <S> You’ll be amazed at how light a road bike (even a steel antique) will feel compared to a mountain bike. <S> My 1975 Peugeot MX-18 weighs just under 11kg <S> (I did swap the steel rims for alu ones). <S> This is half the weight of your mountain bike! <S> Finally, since a used beater is so cheap, you won’t worry as much riding it in all weather conditions or about bike thievery. <A> There is not much you can do to a downhill bike for better commuting beyond swapping out tires for narrower on-road ones. <S> Weight and bouncy suspension are an intrinsic part of the bike. <S> To go faster you will have to get fitter and stronger. <A> Lock the suspension if you can. <S> Every time you press the pedal, some of your energy is lost to bob as the suspension soaks it up. <S> A fully rigid bike will not bob. <A> Get smooth tyres (35mm), not knobblies. <S> This is the biggie. <S> Inflate to 70psi, I notice it below 50psi <S> Weight doesn't really change speed significantly (but it does make the pickup sluggish, creating the illusion that it is slow), nor does wheel size, or number of gears. <S> (when I changed from 20"3spd to 700C,24spd <S> my commute was exactly the same - depressingly) <S> (Electric motors do though!) <S> When I was at Uni the odds of keeping a bike like yours for 1 year were the lesser of zero and nil. <S> Save yourself time and worry, and just give it to a homeless guy now. <S> He needs it more than the bike stealing scum at Uni. <S> If you have trains, or friends with cars consider a folding bike. <S> They are really convenient for optimising your travel by hitching a ride then cycling off. <A> If you want to experiment to see how much energy is lost by the your profiled tires, try a pair of slick tires; there are some that look almost like the profile-less ones for road bikes, just wider <S> so they fit your MTB rims. <S> Obviously, they are a bit more sensitive to nails, glass etc. <S> , so do drive carefully with them, keep a flat repair set with you, just in case, and of course don't throw away your old tires. <S> If you do think that these help you a lot, either stick with them, or (if flats are a problem), find some semi-slicks. <S> Locking out the suspension is something you probably did already. <S> Aside from that, having been in your shoes, I didn't find too much to do. <S> You'll get more fit over time. <S> Try to ... <S> well ... pedal faster, try to find your sweet spot regarding cadence. <S> Try to pedal intelligently with respect to forced stops (red lights) - try to approach them slowly so you are already in motion when they turn green, shaving off a few seconds of acceleration each time. <A> You don't need a 'designer' bike. <S> Pick up a cheap or second-hand road model. <S> It also might not attract thieves so much, though I'm afraid here in London <S> they'll steal anything that isn't chained down, and plenty that is. <A> Get more aerodynamic <S> To do so <S> : move your knees in closer to the frame <S> move your hands on the handlebars closer to the stem. <S> You'll want to be in a high gear already. <S> pull your elbows in <S> so they are in-line with your thighs lower your head and shoulders down toward the bar to decrease your overall frontal size. <S> Downside of doing this is your hands are a long way from your brakes, so you need extra reaction time if its turning bad. <S> Don't do this in traffic or anywhere with a lot of people/kids/animals. <S> for your and their safety. <A> The back tire has more weight on it, so to start with you might only swap out the rear if you're on a budget. <S> Swapping the rims so you can use narrower tires might be even better, but on my (no suspension) MTB that I use for commuting, I kept the original rims and just use mountain-bike tires that are intended for riding on hard granite trails. <S> The middle part of the tread is basically pebbled, not studded, so they roll nicely on flat roads. <S> See Choosing good slick tires for a MTB for recommendations on this site. <S> My tires have some bigger tread to the sides; I think the (off-road) intent is <S> so you have grip if your wheel sinks into softer ground. <S> They look very similar to this: <S> Depending on how much / what kind of off road you still want to do on your bike, choose accordingly. <A> Increase the pressure in your tires (this was mentioned in comments). <S> This will make it less comfortable, but will decrease rolling resistance. <S> Also, try to optimize your route from a commuter's point of view <S> : use smooth roads where possible. <S> And if there are significant changes in height on your route, try to optimize them too.
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A road bike, even an old one, will be faster over paved surfaces and learning how to “float” over cobblestones and rough surfaces will help your mountain biking skills. If your suspension has no lockout functions, consider adjusting the controls till its harder with less sag and less rebound. You can get semi-slick tires that have less rolling resistance. But I totally second the suggestion of get a cheap second hand uni bike. If your ride has straight open segments where there is no danger from pedestrians, then consider getting more aero.
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Crack/fissure in the headtube My 2007 Ghost AMR 5700 developed a crack or fissure at the upper end of the headtube. I do not know whether it developed over time or whether there was a specific event leading up to it; it looked like that when I discovered it first. Still, everything else on it is in good condition. The bike obviously is not worth its weight in gold, but it would be a bummer just to throw it away. Questions: How on earth can a crack develop at that point (it's about 10:30 o'clock when viewed from the sattle)? I am riding slow and methodically on single trails, I don't race downhill, and am pretty sure that I never once "punched through" the front suspension (sorry, don't know how you would call that in english); I do tend to not put my full body weight on the handlebar anyways for the sake of my wrists. The location just seems a bit arbitrary. Or is that a common place for these kinds of injuries, for some reason? The bike is the entry level of the AMR line from Ghost, it cost about 1700€ (?) in 2007, and the parts are certainly not high-end, but appropriate to my needs; I like the bike as much today as in the past, and have not tried other fullies since then, so have no comparison anyways. That said, would you say it makes sense economically to look for a new frame (Ghost or different brand) and move everything over? I do have a family member who built his own road bike for a world tour from scratch, so the necessary know-how and maybe even most of the tools should be around, although he has no experience with suspension. But I have no idea how to select a proper frame, and frankly don't want to make this my "project" for the next year. I guess I'm asking how hard it is to find a fitting frame, or how easy it is to botch the choice. It would only make sense if the result would be able to run single trails again ( not crazy downhill with lots of jumping, I'm not getting younger). I don't even dare to ask, but will do so just for completeness: would a competent welder be able to fix that crack, and would you trust your own life to it afterwards? The crack itself: The specs from their 2007ish paper catalog: <Q> Q: "[W]ould a competent welder be able to fix that crack[?] <S> " <S> No, that frame is done for. <S> By attempting to weld such a crack, a welder would prove their incompetence. <S> Even if you fix that crack you might find another crack on the right hand side, mirroring this crack. <S> What is more, the crack will go considerably deeper. <S> I had a crack at the same spot <S> and we asked the manufacturer (Corratec). <S> According to their frame builder welding would warp the head tube too much to seat the head set properly. <S> Q: "[Why] can a crack develop at that point[?] <S> " <S> Aluminium is susceptible to fatigue under light dynamic loads. <S> The upper bearing of the headset is pressed into the headtube at this point. <S> The position of the crack suggests it is caused by a force pushing the upper bearing forward. <S> Due to the great mechanical advantage of the fork/headset system forces pushing the wheel backward require the upper support to bear a force pointing forward. <S> This strains the upper support. <S> (The lower support is compressed). <S> When you pull a ring from the inside it will typically break at the same points your tube cracked. <S> (If I remember correctly from undergrad engineering ±2/3π from the direction of the force.) (Try it for example with a bagel.) <S> A head tube that is too tight cracks when the upper bearing race is pressed in. <S> These cracks would then grow, for example, due to stress corrosion cracking. <S> Q: <S> New frame? <S> Have you tried to ask Ghost? <S> Corratec have given me a new frame when their ten year old frame failed in the same mode. <S> PS: Do not ride your cracked bike! <S> Not even a single metre: it might fail catastrophically without warning. <A> Re finding a replacement frame. <S> New bare frame sets tend to be high end models. <S> You could look on the used market for an older good quality frame, but you would have to educate yourself about geometry and component compatibility. <S> It’s not impossible but not trivial. <S> Then factor in the tools you would need to buy to do a full bike build, and components that might need replacing such as the chain, cassette etc. <S> You will almost certainly be better off buying new bike, and getting the benefit of brand new components. <A> My Ghost bike also failed :( <S> Looks like they have issues with frames. <S> But it is true that the frame is almost 10 years old with 10,000km. <S> Steel frames are better in this respect, as they have a fatigue limit. <S> Under this stress load it will not fail in "indefinite" stress cycles. <S> Carbon frames are similar to aluminium, but have much higher stress levels. <S> Source for fatigue strength: https://www.qualitymag.com/articles/94171-stress-life-fatigue-testing-basics <A> No, on any reasonable frame cracks cannot be welded unless they were at a location that was designed to be welded. <S> A reasonable frame means lightweight here, meaning that material thickness and thus strength at all locations is optimized to be just barely enough. <S> Welding seams have lower strength than the original material, and therefore, any welding at that location will eventually fail. <S> You wondered how a crack can form at that location. <S> The reason is simple: the material thickness/strength is optimized so that every location of the frame has just the bare minimum amount. <S> Thus, there are many potential crank locations, including the head tube.
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If your headtube showed cracks at any other place it would suggest machining tolerances not met. Aluminium has problem with fatigue and eventually cracks after N cycles of stress. If you want some value out of the bike, strip its components and sell them - or donate the bike to a local co-operative or bike charity as a component donor.
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How to remove a threaded bottom bracket? How to take this thing off? I think this bike is from West Germany. What tool do I need and is there a screwing direction trick? Thanks! (I am taking this off to repaint) <Q> That is called the bottom bracket and houses the bearings through which the crank axle sits. <S> You'll need a specialist tool to remove it (see the small notches) and there are several different types on the market. <S> Something like this might do it though? <A> A dirty hack is to use a hammer and drift, but it will marr the impact point on the lock ring. <S> Second option is to use a sliding lockjaw pliers around the whole lockring, because its wider than the BB you'll be able to get a grip. <S> Marring the metal can still happen, so layers of cloth can help protect it. <S> Finally, consider replacing the entire BB with a modern cartridge bearing housing. <S> That will use a common BB removal tool without a lockring. <S> This way you can bang off the old one without worrying about refitting it. <S> This will require different cranks too, your old cottered cranks won't fit. <A> For the unbolting directions a Sheldon Brown's bottom bracket cribsheet gives some information. <S> Unbolting the non-drive side is in almost all cases <S> counterclockwise (seeing the lock ring <S> I'm sure the cups aren't pressed in). <S> You may then extract the spindle and the bearings and have a deep look through the shell to the drive side to confirm whether the thread there is reverse ( unbolting is then clockwise ).
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You can use an old/rubbish flat screwdriver as a drift too, by putting the end into the corner on a notch. Buying the right tool is an option, but depends if you're going to get value out of it.
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How to clean disk brakes? I want to clean my disk brakes and am wondering if it is sufficient to only remove the pads and use water & soap when washing the parts. If not, is there a list of stuff to avoid when cleaning disk brakes? Thanks! <Q> In most cases a mild bike wash soap gets you past the minor services, no problem. <S> Used in conjunction with a toothbrush or the like. <S> What you want to avoid is any cleaner that is oil based(petroleum, paraffin etc.). <S> These leave residue and will affect your stopping power. <S> I have even found citrus de-greasers leaving residue films behind. <S> During major services you want to get the wheels and brake pads out after the normal wash. <S> You can then use isopropyl alcoho l to bush the caliper out. <S> Isopropyl is also great if you found the pads contaminated and can often save the day from having to buy new ones. <S> In addition, isopropyl is also used to wipe down the rotors' surface and that is very important to keep clean. <S> Isopropyl alcohol is cheap and easy to find, often branded as some type of household cleaner. <S> So you can add it to the shopping list or swing past a chemist/drug store. <S> In addition, if you are working on brakes, this should be part of your standard tool kit. <S> It is the go-to for removing and cleaning DOT brake fluid of the bike as well. <S> Also, when you go to the auto parts store, they will have brake cleaner as well. <S> Usually more expensive and mainly pressurized isopropyl alcohol. <S> Avoid sandpaper . <S> This is the very last resort. <S> Unless experienced, you are almost guaranteed to get the surface not flat and out of parallel with the other side and rotor surfaces. <S> This will decrease stopping power, cause squealing and require the pads to be re-bedded. <S> So effectively you'll sand away some of the pad and the lose more trying to get it bedded again. <S> Have used it in the past for very specific problems <S> and then you'd be looking at 800+ grit, super flat working surface and circle motions. <A> To clean the pads, use high-grit sandpaper (400 or so). <S> The best way to clean the rotor is with alcohol and a clean rag or paper towel, as that will evaporate and not leave a residue. <A> So, on the whole disc and disc brake pads of your bike, brake fluid appeared (or worse, oily lumps), what should I do? <S> With the disk, there will be no big problems. <S> It's not a bad idea to clean the disk with a good hard coat. <S> The easiest way is to simply take and wash the disc with water as the brake fluid dissolves in the water.
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Most manufacturers of disc brakes recommend cleaning it with alcohol-containing material and a clean cloth.
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Is this tire properly fitted on the rim? My tires are 622 x 38C, and on the rim it says 622 x 21C (m̶i̶n̶i̶m̶u̶m̶ ̶t̶i̶r̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶d̶t̶h̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶m̶ ̶s̶u̶p̶p̶o̶r̶t̶s̶,̶ ̶I̶ ̶b̶e̶l̶i̶e̶v̶e the rim width ).These tires cost around 18 dollars each. I've spent some time on: making sure I haven't pinched the tube and there is no foreign object between the tire and the rim; deflating, adjusting the bead, trying to straighten the tire, reinflating; The rim is true, the bead seems fine, yet the tire has a noticeable wobble (~2mm I would say): This is how the bead looks: These are the original components of a 170USD bicycle I bought from Decathlon a month ago. They have bicycle mechanics and a repair shop; but I guess they don't spend a lot of time fine tuning the bicycles before selling, especially the cheaper ones. The front tire (which I haven't touched yet) wobbles a bit more; the rim is also 1-2mm out of true. Will this tire wobble wear down the bearings faster, or other components?Or is this amount considered normal, and won't do any harm? Is this as true as you can get on such a cheap bicycle?Should I spend more time trying to adjust or leave it as it is? <Q> I'll answer all your questions in order. <S> 1) <S> "Will this tire wobble wear down the bearings faster, or other components?" <S> -Nope, this wobble will do pretty much nothing to the rim. <S> If anything, you will feel the slightest of 'floating' (the only way I can describe it, the bulge ever-so-slightly lifting the bike when you go over it.) <S> 2) "is this amount considered normal, and won't do any harm?" <S> 3) <S> "Is this as true as you can get on such a cheap bicycle?" <S> - The bicycle has nothing to do with the tyre. <S> If the bike was £120, you can still get £80 Continentals. <S> The tyre's quality, however, is quite a big factor. <S> If you bought them for £12 a piece, there's a high chance that there may be minor defects. <S> 4) <S> "Should I spend more time trying to adjust or leave it as it is?" <S> -Leave it. <S> If anything, you risk doing more damage to the tyre/rim, constantly playing with it. <S> Ride around on this tyre for a couple days. <S> In my experience with cheaper tyres, they'll settle down. <S> It's usually due to storage/transit. <S> Re-inflating usually gets rid of any deformation, though not always. <S> Riding it for a while will eventually get it to even out. <S> If the tyre is damaged, you'll usually notice a very major bulge. <S> It'll look somewhat like that, but on the tyre. <A> It looks to me that your tire is not properly centered on the rim. <S> The first thing you should check is whether the rim tape is well-centered. <S> One of the main reasons why a tire cannot center on the rim is that the rim tape has creeped up at some points towards one side of the rim. <S> When the rim tape is centered, you can put the tire and inner tube back on. <S> Center the tire roughly with your hands and check that the inner tube is nowhere squeezed between tire and rim. <S> Pump the inner tube to the maximum pressure indicated on the outside of the tire . <S> You will probably hear some plops. <S> At the maximum pressure the circular rim line on the tire should be at the same distance to the rim everywhere. <S> If so, the problem if solved. <S> Now reduce the inflation pressure to a value more comfortable for riding. <S> If it is not, there is a final trick. <S> Release the pressure and wet both the outside walls of the tire and the rim hooks with a solution of a detergent using a cloth. <S> A few drops of dish washing liquid in about 100 ml of water is good enough. <S> Apply it generously to all surfaces without splashing it around. <S> Now again pump to the maximum pressure. <S> The soap should facilitate the tire beads to slide into the hooks of the rim. <S> See also <S> "What can be done if the tyre cannot be centered?" on https://www.schwalbe.com/en-GB/montage.html PM. <S> For a 622x21C rim, the 21C stands for the rim width, not the minimum tire width. <S> According to Schwalbe's "Which tyre fits which rim?" the minimum tire width for a 21C rim is 35 mm. <S> See https://www.schwalbe.com/en-GB/reifenmasse.html <A> Mounting tires: Check the rim tape/strip. <S> Check the rim bead seat area. <S> Put a bit of air in the tube before attempting to mount the tire. <S> Put the first half of the tire on the rim. <S> Put the tube into the tire. <S> Start with putting the valve into the rim and stuff the tube into the tire. <S> If needed let some air out ( not too much, you want it to have a basic round shape. ). <S> This will keep it from getting pinched between the tire and the rim. <S> Starting away from the valve area, start pushing ( <S> by hand only, no tools ) <S> the second bead of the tire over onto the rim. <S> the last ( and hardest, resist the urge to use tools, even plastic tire tools can hole the tube ). <S> Now you will have the valve area to push on. <S> Do that, yes it will be a bit hard on your hands. <S> Keep the valve area as the last to go on. <S> Once the tire is on all the way, push the valve up into the tire as much as you can without loosing it. <S> This will un-pinch the tube there, if it is pinched. <S> If it will pinch, the last place you push over is likely to be where.
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Probably neither the rim nor the tire are faulty, but they require more effort to center the tire. -Any tyre wobble is not classed as normal, though it will not do any harm to you, the bicycle or your bike's performance. If you take an innertube and inflate it, looking at the valve, you'll notice it has a weird shape around where the valve is.
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Bike with a hi-ten steel frame for getting around the city? Recently I bought a new bike which has the following characteristics: Size of frames: M (44cm) / L (48cm) / XL (52cm) Wheel size / Number of gears: 26 "/ 21 Frame: HI-TEN Steel Fork: HI-TEN steel fixed 26" Hedsch: A -HEAD 1-1 / 8 " Stem: ZOOM, Steel A-HEAD, ML 80mm / XL 110mm Steering wheel: ZOOM, Steel 20 / 580mm Grips: HERMANS, KRATON Suspension: Steel 28.6x300mm Saddle: SELLE BASSANO PIPER Saws : BERETTA 26 "ALU double-walled 36H Front head: ALU 36H Rear head: ALU 36H gearbox / brakes: SHIMANO ST-EF51-L 3x7 Front brakes: PROMAX V-ALU Rear brake: PROMAX V-ALUFront Shift: SHIMANO FD-TX51 Rear Shift: SHIMANO RD-TX55 Terminal: SHIMANO MF-TZ21-7 14-28 Chain: KMC Z-50 Middle shaft: THUN cartridge Transmission: Steel 48x38x28 170mm Pedals: MTB PVC Backing: ALU Tires: KENDA 26x2.10 I'm not a bike expert, but a friend of mine made a negative remark about the hi-ten frame saying that he would prefer an aluminium bike frame, or maybe another kind of steel. I'm mainly going to use this bike to get around through my city, and nothing serious like mountaneering etc. I would like to know what issues can the hi-ten steel frame cause and should I change it for another one (aluminium frame bike) if I can? <Q> Yes, they're heavy, and normally cheap, but they can be tough and practical. <S> What's more important is that it works for you - that it's the right size and convenient. <A> High tensile or 'hi-ten' steel is the lowest end material used for inexpensive bikes. <S> The next level up is so called 'cro-moly' steel <S> (alloys using chromium and molybdenum). <S> High tensile steel frames are relatively heavy because the steel is relatively weak necessitating thicker wall tubes be used. <S> Cro-moly steel or even aluminum framed bikes can still be heavy if they are equipped with inexpensive heavier components. <S> If the bike works for you it's fine. <A> There was a time when all bikes where made of steel, people rode them around cities, and nothing terrible happened. <S> You don't have to change it if you don't mind the weight. <S> It 's more prone to rust, but it's not a big problem if you take good care of it. <S> I ride a steel bike from the mid-80's around the city, even when it rains, and it barely has any rust. <S> You can prevent rust by keeping your bike clean and applying grease to rust-prone areas - basically, places where the frame is touching another part or water can collect, like the collar of the seating tube and bolt holes. <S> (It should go without saying that you should keep the transmission well <S> lubricated too if you don't want that to rust, but that's the same regardless of what your frame is made of.) <S> But even if you keep it outside it shouldn't rust too much as long as you don't neglect it. <S> (That's true where I live, I guess it might rust faster if you live in a very humid area.)
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A steel frame is also more susceptible to corrosion, but this can be mitigated by taking care of the bike. I have 4 bikes, and the one I keep for just riding around a city is high-ten steel. It helps if you store it inside, or cover it if it's stored outside. If you had a aluminum framed bike some other friend would comment that they would prefer a bike with a carbon-fiber composite frame.
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Do hybrid bikes break/misalign easily? Hi I recently bought a Brodie hybrid bike from a local bike store for ~$600 and as I know nothing about bikes I just trusted their recommendation to buy it. However on the way home today I made a mistake and fell. I was right next to my garage when I fell so I wasn't going very fast, but now the front wheel is misaligned with the bike frame to the extent that it almost will not turn anymore. I've only had this bike for one day and I know nothing about bikes so is it just expected that a light fall can render a bike useless or are the parts bad or is this an easily fixable problem or anything else? I know I could probably just return the bike for a free repair since I think it was covered in the warranty so if this is a problem with the bike itself should I be wary and try to exchange it for a new bike? Thanks EDIT: Sorry I realized I should've attached a photo. By misaligned I meant more like off center compared to the frame. When I looked at the handlebar alignment it seemed straight to me so sorry for the confusion. <Q> Thank you for posting the photo. <S> It’s a bit clearer that the front wheel is touching the side of the forks. <S> This can be caused by one of two things: 1) the wheel “tacoed” or bent slightly when you had the accident. <S> If the bend is slight, your shop can straighten it back out and tighten the spokes 2) or the front axle slipped a bit in the front dropouts so that the wheel is no longer parallel to the forks and centered. <S> There’s a lot of forces involved when you crash, even at a low speed. <S> Suddenly, hundreds of Newtons of force can be concentrated on just one small part of the bike. <S> It’s impossible to build a bike that would survive all types of accidents especially as people want lightweight bikes. <S> And many parts of a bike are designed to either pop out of alignment or sacrificially break so that more expensive parts of the bike are saved. <S> In any case, take the bike back to the shop to get it fixed. <S> Most shops I know of would fix it as a courtesy fix — not because they or the bike are at fault, but as part of good customer service for a minor repair. <S> ///——-//// <S> included for historical reasons: <S> My first guess before you posted the photo was that the handle bars twisted so that they are no longer perpendicular to the wheel. <S> This can happen with any bike but hybrids have wider handlebars than many so they’re particularly easy to make crooked. <S> Also, I hate to say this but hybrid bikes tend to attract people who are relatively newer to biking <S> and so there’s more chance they’ll do things the bike isn’t designed to do, like run it into the ground. <S> You can easily fix twisted handlebars by holding your front wheel between your knees and straightening or forcing the handlebars to be perpendicular to the bike and wheels. <S> And you can ask your bike shop to tighten the fork bolts so that they’re tighter but a big enough spill will twist them — <S> it’s better that it twists out of alignment given it <S> ’s <S> so easy to fix — rather than the wheel bending out of shape. <A> The added picture (thanks) shows that the wheel is misaligned in the fork dropouts. <S> This is an easy fix. <S> (It's highly unlikely that the wheel was bent in a low speed crash.) <S> If you have a quick-release on the front wheel, just hold the bike upright, undo the release, the wheel axle should drop into the dropouts, then re-secure the release. <S> If the wheel moved in the fork, it's likely that the quick-release was not done up tightly enough. <S> There are many YouTube videos that show how to adjust them properly. <S> Here is a good one . <S> If the wheel is secured with axle nuts, your bike shop can help. <S> A good shop will likely do such a small task for free. <A> You'd probably have had the same problem after that accident on any bike of comparable quality. <A> From the picture it looks like it could be one of two problems. <S> The fall caused the wheel to be incorrectly seated in the fork, in which case it is an easy fix. <S> If this is the case, it's as simple as removing the wheel and put it back in, making sure it is seated properly in the fork. <S> Look up Youtube videos for help removing your wheel (or fixing a flat) if you are not sure how to remove the wheel. <S> The second scenario is that somehow the wheel was bent. <S> You'll be able to tell if the wheel wobbles left and right when it spins. <S> This is something that the bike mechanic would have to fix is your case, as it requires some specialized tools and expertise. <S> I don't think this is the case because that seems like quite a bit of wobb <S> It also appears that your brakes are also not centered properly and that they are pushed to the left in the picture. <S> This is probably due to the wheel pushing them to the left and will probably be resolved once the wheel is seated properly and/or is not bent. <S> To answer the broader question of whether or not hybrid bikes are prone to breakage/misalignment. <S> I would have to say that in general they are not, as they are made for day-to-day use. <S> A bike in your price range is generally built pretty solid. <S> However, from time to time some maintenance will need to be done. <S> Also, crashes can cause things to move out of place. <S> If you don't know a lot about bikes, it's probably best to have someone experienced look it over if anything seems to not be working correctly after a fall.
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Fixing this just takes loosening the axle bolts or quick release, setting the wheel back in the dropouts, and then tightening everything back up. Any problem such as this isn't really going to be related to the type of bike as much as the quality of the bike and the type of the accident.
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How much does a front wheel last with disc brakes vs calipers? I've read that the calipers end up "eating" the rim. How many km in the city or touring (with a normal use of the brakes) does it take to destroy a rim? Is it something to worry about? Considering that I already have calipers and I'm planning to change the wheels in the future in the range of 500€ (both)... If I change to disc brakes I would have to change the fork, buy the front disc, probably add weight... I want to have a bike reliable with really low maintenance both in money and time which can do a lot of kms, would changing to a front disc brake save me money and time in the long term? <Q> It will heavily depend on the conditions, but it's not something you really have to worry about. <S> At a rough estimate I have 25,000 km on my hybrid, with v brakes (there shouldn't be a huge amount of difference between rim brake types). <S> I ride in all weathers, and much of the distance is commuting with some longer road rides and dirt tracks. <S> There's plenty of wear left in the front rim, going by the groove that's there to indicate that, and most of my braking is at the front. <S> This is an aluminium rim, and one built more for strength the lightness. <A> Hydraulic Disks should be less maintenance than rims. <S> They are self adjusting, all you need to do is replace pads when worn. <S> They may need the occasional bleed, which is a more involved task than rim brake maintenance. <S> Rim brakes are simple, light and reliable. <S> All you need is the occasional adjustment and new pads. <S> They are fiddly to replace and adjust compared to modern disc brakes, but its not a big job. <S> Wear is something that happens on a bike, if you want reliable long life, avoid super lightweight racing components and go for quality components designed for reliability. <S> For instance, put on a 32 spoke touring wheel rather than a 16 spoke racing wheel. <A> Maybe 25 000km with relatively thin road bike rims. <S> If you are riding a lot and have expensive wheels <S> it’s indeed something to take into consideration and an advantage of disk brakes.
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Beyond that, if they have problems, its usually easier to replace the brake than repair it Cable disk brakes have the same adjustment requirements as rim brakes, easier pad replacement than rim brakes and in all probably about the same level of maintenance. In terms of rim wearing out, its not something I would factor into a decision.
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Stiff knee, can I use a shorter crank on one side? My left knee is stiff and arthritic after 5 operations. If I have the saddle high enough not to over-flex that knee, I can barely touch the ground ... as I am elderly and not very agile, this is not safe! It was suggested to me that a shorter crank on the left side only would allow me to lower the saddle a bit without over-flexing my stiff knee. Would it be practical to do this? Thanks (My bike is a Claud Butler Explorer 100) Justin <Q> Seems like a reasonable idea. <S> Two things to consider: Can you get a crank shorter enough to make a difference? <S> Common crank lengths are 170, 172.5 and 175mm. <S> (measured from crank axle center to pedal axle center). <S> Shorter lengths are also available for some cranks, in 2.5mm increments. <S> I think you would have to do some experiments and measurements. <S> Say you went from a 172.5mm crank (the most common length) to a 168.5mm one. <S> That would allow you to drop the seat 5mm and keep the same amount of knee flexion. <S> Is that enough to enable you to touch the ground safely? <S> Crank availability. <S> I looked at a few pictures of the Claud Butler Explorer. <S> Models at least a few years old seemed to have a 3-piece crank with a square taper axle-crank interface. <S> That's good as the square taper is an old standard, so used but <S> perfectly serviceable cranks are available, new ones are inexpensive also. <S> The left are <S> right cranks do not have to match, so you can use any that you can find in the right length. <S> Square taper cranks need a special tool to get off, but a good local bike shop can do it for you. <A> A more drastic solution, a bike with a different geometry. <S> The seat lower, the bottom bearing/crankset further forward and the sitting position a bit more upright. <S> For example, the above photo from the vanRaam website (fair use claimed) , I bet there are more models which have those basic facts. <S> The low step through might not be needed but will help some people. <S> And you can still adjust the cranks if needed. <S> (Not clear from the photos, but this kind of bike is available both without and with electric assist and my friend who recently rented one without was well able to keep up with her daughters on normal bikes.) <A> These have a small electric motor in the hub or bottom bracket. <S> Be sure to try out different ebikes and you might need to get a more expensive unit such as the ones with the Bosch mid-drive. <S> It has a torque sensing pedal sensor which reacts much quicker than rotation based sensors. <S> This can be very important for starting from a dead stop.
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One solution in addition to @Willeke’s suggestion of different geometry is an e-assist or e-bike . The motor assist would help with starting when you need a lot of torque; with maintaining a constant speed because the motor can provide power during the half of the cycle that your leg can’t.
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Bormio (Italy) to Annecy (France) multiday bike tour I'm planning a cycle tour from Bormio (Italy) to Annecy (France), estimating about 80km / day. Has anybody done this? Any recommendation for routes, preferably taking in cols / passes along the way. <Q> One option is to cross the border to St. Moritz, take a combination of these routes to Geneve and ride to Annecy from there (take the shortcut route over Mt. Saléve instead of flatter one). <S> I rode the route 4 some years ago and I strongly recommend it. <S> There is a Swiss cycle route map that shows a list of recommended climbs and shortcuts, which is great for changing the route on the fly. <S> One caveat is that Switzerland is an expensive country and staying on Italian side of the border might save significant money. <S> Border crossings inside Schengen area are more or less a non-issue. <A> Their Randonnées Permanentes might also be of interest to guide some of your route planning (especially the "Cent cols en <S> Savoie Mont Blanc" route for the western end, but there are routes in Switzerland and Italy as well). <S> I've been looking into day rides not far south of Annecy <S> recently, so have spent some time with (mainly offline) maps of the French side. <S> There aren't that many border crossings assuming you want to avoid main roads (which I assume you do). <S> If you didn't want to pass through a third country, crossing from Pré-Saint-Didier to Bourg-Saint-Maurice looks good,for example, as it avoids going too far south/too near Torino. <S> The border itself is the Col du Petit St. Bernard , and at a quick look you could reach the Italian side on smaller roads that run parallel to the main roads. <A> I suggest to avoid Switserland, except for a small corner, because it is horribly expensive and boring. <S> Stick as long as possible to Italy, my favorite biking country. <S> I also suggest to do a couple of legendary passes that you could skip if you followed the line of least action, but that will give you lasting memories of the riding Italy's backcountry. <S> Here is my recommended route, all done myself, but not in one season:Bormio - Grosio - Passo di Mortirolo - Edolo - Passo Aprica - Morbegno - Passo San Marco - Lenna - Passo San Pietro - Lecce - Como - Biella - Aosta <S> - Col Grand Saint Bernard <S> - Martigny - Col du Forclaz - Chamonix - Col <S> des Aravis - Annecy. <S> All in all 700 km and 14000 meter elevation gain. <S> See https://ridewithgps.com/routes/27430119 <A> That sounds awesome fun. <S> I'd suggest looking at Strava's heatmap and see where people ride - a road good for cars might not be good for bikes. <S> https://www.strava.com/heatmap#8.14/8.20914/46.72255/bluered/ride <S> Your language might come into it too - whether you're more comfortable in Switzerland or Italy. <S> Germany is probably too far out of your way, but Liechtenstein and western Austria are within reach. <S> Which passes to take? <S> I can't answer that.
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Your minimum is one border crossing from France to Italy, or two from France to Switzerland to Italy, or you may hop back and forth. The most direct route between Bormio and Annecy goes through Switzerland, which has a network of national bike routes which consists mostly of well maintained side roads. Regardless of whether my suggestion below is of any use to you: As you're looking for cols you might want to look into some of the resources from the club de cent cols , some of which are available to non-members.
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Fitting a 9-speed 11-50T cassette on MTB: which derailleur? I'm trying to understand if its possible to fit a 9-speed 11-50T cassette (found one on Ali) on my MTB. The plan is to go 1×9. The problem is that I can't seem to understand the if a specific derailleur can handle that. The rear derailleur in mind is Shimano M4000 long cage. Should I use a hanger extension? Will 11-42T be better for that? Thanks for the help <Q> https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alivio-m4000/RD-M4000.html says that derailleur will handle Low sprocket_Max. <S> 36 <S> T <S> Low sprocket_Min. <S> 32 <S> T <S> ANSWER <S> : You cannot run a 50 tooth cog with that derailleur. <S> Wolf Tooth's Roadlink allows up to 40 tooth, and Wolf Tooth's Tanpan says 44 or 45 tooth is the maximum cassette size supported. <S> Note <S> these are for 10 and 11 speed. <S> If you're absolutely stuck on a 50 tooth rear cog, then you're looking at a SRAM 12 speed Eagle setup, which will not be cheap. <S> Not a good plan. <A> Derailleur will not handle that, as Criggie says in his answer. <S> Apart from that, an 11-50 9 speed would have horrifically big jumps between gear ratios. <S> 1x systems only really became feasible with the advent of 11 speed drive-trains, and still sacrifice ratio jumps to get a full spread of ratios to some extent. <S> a 9 speed derailleur can handle, then get a small enough chainring to give you the low gears you want, and forgo the higher gears. <S> BTW, Shimano provides tech specs for all their products (as Criggie linked to). <S> This page is a good place to start looking for specs of a particular product. <A> I run a shimano m4000 with a 9spd goat link on a 9spd 11-50t cassette with no problems b screw doesn’t need to be fully wound in. <S> More recently, I’ve reverted to a 10spd SLX shadow+ mech sgs cage which I run with a sram x7 9spd shifter, giving even better shifting. <A> I have to agree with Dave - 11-36 works like a charm, gear spacing is just right. <S> I also tried an 11-42 which didn't really work well. <S> AFAIC <S> the issue with the wide range cassettes reg. <S> 9-Speed is that they have the cassettes but there are no (Shimano) derailleurs to shift it. <S> At least not out of the box. <S> There are howtos online with re-routing the cable for a different pull ratio. <S> 11-speed derailleurs might be too narrow, chain-wise. <S> You could also use a Sram 9-speed shifter with a Shimano 10-speed derailleur. <S> Trouble is, all of these solutions are rather expensive if you haven't the parts in the spares box. <S> Rather than spending that much money on an exotic 9-speed solution that doesn't get better over time, invest it in a Sunrace 11-speed cassette and Shimano SLX derailleur plus shifter. <S> What you don't want is a solution based on hanging your derailleur lower and the Wolf Tooth link extensions don't work with 9-speed derailleurs. <S> I tried it (and it's rather expensive too). <S> Best to stick to inexpensive 11/12-36 and a 30 or 32 NW chainring. <S> Or try the 11-40, but that's the max you will be able to get working properly. <A> 21% gear spacing is not a problem. <S> Shimano has over stated the need for tight ratios. <S> The shifting won't be quite as smooth, I have an 8spd 11-40, but will be well within acceptable standards. <S> 11-36 has never been a problem with 9 speeds and I usually have to double shift my 11-36 10 spd because the ratios are too tight. <S> You will have to use a hanger extender with a long cage derailleur. <S> The warnings that the extender doesn't allow the RDR to track the cassette properly is also over stated. <S> If you believe that Shimano wouldn't know. <S> Obviously that is ridiculous. <S> Shimano has stubbornly lagged 2 to 3 years behind the market in the area of gear ranges. <S> They don't belive in it and only participate well behind the market because they have no choice so pick another brand of RDR. <S> There are many options. <A> I looked at some offerings of such cassettes and what a vendor suggests as a derailleur for them. <S> An example of a cassette: <S> Compatibility chart from the same page: <S> It looks that no 9- or 10-speed dérailleurs are compatible with that cassette, but they claim that some 11-speed ans 12-speed parts from both Shimano and SRAM may be used instead. <A> Box Components have released a 9-speed 11-50 drivetrain (cassette, RD, and chain) for EMTBs (thicker chain and cassette to cope with the torque), and I think the gear jump ratios don't matter when it comes to mountain biking. <S> Even Seth's Bike Hacks uses it, and he's a very nitpicky kind of guy. <S> What I don't know is if it's compatible with a standard 9-speed system. <S> Box Components says it isn't compatible with Shimano and SRAM 9-speed systems, but I have a feeling they're just saying it for marketing purposes. <A> I have used a RD-M2000 and 11-50 on 9 speed with hanger, but the very connection of the gear wire on the inside just touches the bigger cog when in 1 gear, otherwise ok (almost :-) <S> Would probably try the RD-M370 instead next time
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A 11-40 cassette just works OK with the B-screw screwed in all the way or using an even longer replacement screw. You might be able to use a hanger extension, but that will make the small gears even worse. You could try a Shimano 10-speed derailleur and if it doesn't work ok (which it likely won't), try tweaking it. Cassette and shifter must change, and its very likely your freehub won't fit the cassette, and then the OLD will be too large to fit in your frame. If you really want a 1x 9 speed, get a cassette Shimano claims they do no testing with components other than their own.
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cogs for front wheel See this wheel. Can I put two freewheel cogs on it, instead of one freewheel and one fixed? (driving clock and anti clock, so both driving forward)Then get this wheel onto front steel fork, by bending open a bit?I haven't fully worked out the driving thing yet, so can't explain it.Thanks <Q> If you really need a freewheel on each side, that both drive the wheel forward, then you would need a custom built hub with a left hand freewheel thread on the left hand side, and you'd need to build a left hand freewheel too. <S> You would of course need a custom fork for either as rear hubs are wider that front hubs. <A> Focusing on the fork part of the question: Remember the front wheel is an OLD of 100mm (just under 4") <S> so you will need to spread the legs/tines of the fork to give room for your changes. <S> This means you will need a steel fork . <S> No other material can be spread, and even a steel one might break. <S> They will need to be bent back to vertical too. <S> You also require a rigid fork because this level of bending will render any suspension ineffective. <A> Some of the early velocipedes were front wheel drive: <S> And many folks have created experimental front wheel drive bikes and recumbents: <S> The problem as @criggie notes is that the dropouts are not the same size front and rear. <S> There’s another problem which front hub drive ebikes experience which is that the front wheel loses traction very easily when accelerating or going uphill. <S> So you lose all your power just when you need it most.
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If you just needed a freewheel on the right hand side, just use a single speed bike rear hub. Consider that spreading the fork will un-align the front dropouts.
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New to cycling, questions about over doing it I just got my bike last week, it's a single speed. I bought it to go ride the forest preserve trails near me for exercise and I don't know how far I should be riding before I'm pushing myself too far too soon. I've rode the past 2 days, 6 mile per day. Is this a good amount? Should I go further? <Q> It depends on a lot of things, like how fit you are to start with and how well the bike fits you. <S> But as a general rule (and assuming you're in decent health) tired is fine, muscle aches are to be expected, but don't ignore pain especially in your joints. <S> As with any new exercise, do build in some rest days, and expect to build up what you can do. <A> If you are healthy (no heart disease etc.) <S> and the bike fits you properly (saddle high enough etc.) <S> you almost can’t overdo it. <S> Bicycling is pretty easy on joints, sinews and ligaments. <S> 6 miles (10km) sounds little but depending on the circumstances it can take you almost an hour which is totally okay for a workout. <S> For people who spend lots of hours per week at relatively high intensity, overtraining can become an issue. <S> As a beginner you are probably much more limited by saddle and muscle soreness (during and after exercise) than anything else. <S> Make sure you get enough water and carbs during and after the ride. <A> Your muscles can adapt quickly, and your cardiovascular system can work on overdrive for hours without stopping. <S> Unlike the advanced athlete, beginners don't typcally bother buying a heart rate monitor and can afford to skate on sensations <S> (don't worry about every little thing your body is telling you). <S> Cycling takes a much longer time than most sports. <S> 100 km, which is so nice to roll on a day off, takes four to five hours of clean traffic. <S> For five hours your body runs on overdrive, your pulse is driven into an unusual training zone (you want to improve the average speed a little). <A> Meaning if you start feeling your thighs tired, your feet sore and MOST IMPORTANTLY your knees tired <S> (since you mentioned a single speed) there is no way to over-cycle more than over doing it as in any other sport. <S> For example you wouldn't go running in mid summer with 45C without water etcTry to relax and enjoy your bike, don't forget to drink enough water WHILE you cycle (not just before and after) to keep your muscles hydrated and avoid cramps etc. <S> Along with this try to maintain a more "healthy" diet and you will find yourself with the pleasant surprise of been able to cycle more and more as time passes.
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Get enough rest, listen to your body (a bit of muscle soreness and exhaustion is okay, real pain or dizziness is not) and you should be fine. The same distance can be a very different amount of effort depending on the surface, incline etc. Except the case of some serious health issue (heart, breath, knees related ones) there is not such thing as OVER-cycling as long as you keep an "ear" on what your body has to say.
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How can I reversibly uglify a bike? I'm likely to have to commute to somewhere that's less than ideal for security. The whole thing is less than ideal but it's only for a couple of weeks. Using using the beater bike I already have isn't an option: it's 23 km under time pressure, and sometimes I'll have to use the hybrid with child seat (and try to get there in 55 minutes). I'd rather use the tourer if I don't need the child seat. In either case I'll take two locks (probably one D-lock and one cable lock, possibly 2 D-locks). There are some fairly solid iron railings to lock up to, and both bikes are already security marked and registered. So as an added detterent I'd like to make the bikes look as undesirable as possible -- how can this be done in a reversible way? While Reduce Resale Value to Avoid Theft? (Uglify) is closely related, the answers there concentrate on permanent approaches, and I'm specifically after something more temporary. <Q> I like stickers. <S> Lots of stickers. <S> Almost anything will do, promo stickers after often cheap and fairly easily available. <S> First put reflective tape on the key areas of your bike, then cover as much of the rest of it as you can with stickers. <S> They will inevitably fade and degrade, but you can help that along by spraying muddy water on them then over-spraying with dilute varnish once the water dries if you want <S> (use acetone specifically to damage the printing if you can). <S> You can also often downgrade components cheaply - with drop bars hit the bargain bin and buy some cheap, thin bar tape and wrap that over your existing stuff. <S> If you're lucky you'll be able to get two mismatched rolls :) <S> And look out for wrecked bikes and swipe components off them. <S> Rusty, bent seat clamp mounted reflectors, for example. <S> The goal is obvious things that don't affect how the bike actually works. <S> You could also use packing tape to strap an old torch to the handlebars. <S> Don't use it as a light, it's there because it's big and ugly. <S> All of that will come off fairly quickly using a plastic scraper and a craft knife, but it'll look convincingly ugly. <S> For security, I would use secure wheel and saddle attachments (like Pitlock) because that way you can use a grungy old lock around the frame like all the other beater bikes do. <S> Spray paint them black before installing, and don't be too fussy about it. <S> Then get a half decent chain lock (secure, heavy) or cable lock (lighter, not as secure) and thread an old inner tube over it. <S> That way it looks cheap and awful. <A> Dodgy, ripped and heavily worn saddles often add a certain "look" to a bike. <S> Perhaps pick up a cheap as chips one and give it some abuse, or use an old one you've got lying around, then swap it back to your pristine, comfortable one after the couple of weeks are up. <A> I wrap the frame in old inner tubes. <S> This has the added effect of protecting the paint job from scuffs and dings. <A> Insulation tape. <S> In multiple colors to suggest a really bad taste, as opposed to single color conspicuously hinting at a bike that's been intentionally uglified. <S> I'd say also remove panniers, or any accessories that scream "quality". <S> There are sticker glue removal solutions in stores. <S> I've been using some cleaning solutions normally used in furniture manufacture for cleaning up marker writings, excess hardened glue and stickers from the final product before shipping. <S> Stickers instead of insulation tape have the downside that, being made of paper, they don't come off in one piece, making them even harder to peel off cleanly. <S> Further adding some really ugly (cheap, cracked) mudguards could contribute to the overall cheap feeling. <A> After some rain and sun it looked quite ugly.
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Adding some rusty bits and pieces from the other bike would help. Once I was hauling some long boards, so I wrapped parts of frame and brake cables with cheap painters tape (one that is more like paper).
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Why do only downhill mountain bikers wear full face helmets? A lot of cyclists are concerned about safety and having the proper equipment, but I have never seen a cyclist riding in the city with a full-face helmet, nor have I seen a full-face helmet marketed for city/road riding. Is there a reason for this? I have a friend who broke several teeth after a tire got caught in some trolly tracks resulting in many thousands of $'s of dental bills, and know of another young woman who died in a similar incident after hitting her head on the curb. Both were wearing standard bike helmets. If the full-face helmet offers more protection to more of your head, why wouldn't some people want that, even if they're not doing some ridiculous jump on a downhill or BMX bike? vs. <Q> I think there will be a significant subjective element to answering this question, but pressing on: <S> Full face helmets are relatively heavy <S> Full face helmets offer less ventilation that standard helmets <S> Full face helmets are less aerodynamic that standard helmets <S> Riders don't want to look silly or weird <S> Full face helmets are not marketed to cross country MTB, road or casual cyclists. <S> However, given that a few decades ago cycle helmets were rarely worn, but are now common; it seems plausible that in the future lighter, more ventilated helmets will be developed and become generally acceptable for less extreme forms of riding. <A> A point made in a previous comment suggests full face helmets affect peripheral vision. <S> This is a safety downside. <S> A bigger safety downside is this: They must also affect hearing ( <S> well-ventilated helmets that don't block too much sound will be prone to wind noise). <S> Hearing is a valuable tool for telling what's coming up behind. <A> I often wear a regular cycling helmet as it may slightly reduce the severity of traumatic brain injury in certain crashes. <S> The probability of such a crash is very low. <S> The probability of a crash where the helmet is sufficient to mitigate brain injury in a significant way is even slimmer. <S> However, since the reward for the rare cases where it helps is high (so i hope), I do wear it. <S> Wearing a helmet comes a a price though. <S> A cycling helmet is inconvenient, often unbearably hot, and rarely comfortable. <S> Oh, and they also do cost money. <S> On balance, considering risk, reward, and costs, it is oftentimes worth for me to wear a regular helmet. <S> The balance looks different for a full face helmet: <S> I consider facial injuries to be much less debilitating and severe than brain injuries. <S> Further disadvantages are discussed in other's answers. <S> To sum it up, I shall certainly not wear a full face helmet. <S> The balance may be different for me if I were riding steep inclines down off-road, as it were. <S> However, considering the draw-backs of full face helmets while getting to the mountain and up the mountain. <S> I doubt, I should use a full face helmet either. <A> Because full face helmets are way heavier, less aerodynamic and much less ventilated. <S> Wearing it on a road bike most probably wouldn't take you very far. <S> The same applies for XC or any discipline where you're making long and steady efforts for one hour or more. <S> A DH race consists of interval-type efforts, and there is rest in between; a DH racer will not be overheated between runs.
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Full face helmets are much hotter and heavier than regular helmets. The probability of jaw injuries from survivable accidents while road biking is even lower than that for traumatic brain injury (people rarely face plant from their road bike).
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Bicycle left outside for over a year. Possible to save? Two years ago I was knocked off my bicycle by a car and was too scared to cycle for a long time, and left my bicycle outside uncovered for over a year. That was a mistake. Now, WD-40 applied to the chain did not help much. The chain still won't bend. I think cleaning it won't be possible, I will replace it. But how about the rest? I have no idea what I will have to do to make it work or if it is even possible. Do I have to replace anything else apart from chain and cables? These are the bicycle specs. <Q> You don't have pictures of the bike, but honestly, theres not much you need to worry about. <S> Check that the brakes work (may need new pads, cables). <S> Add a new chain <S> and you're likely good to go. <S> A lot of bikes live outside their whole lives (in rain and snow) and aren't worse for the wear. <A> A chain left outside for a long period, unless freshly oiled beforehand (or in a desert), will be ruined. <S> The rest is worth checking over by someone experienced, but the bike can probably be saved by replacing routine components, and it's probably worth doing. <S> I'd expect to change the brake pads as well (another cheap consumable). <S> The cassette (rear gears) might want doing at the same time as the chain but it might be OK if it's not too worn, and the cables might have survived (they're probably stainless, though they might be a bit stiff anyway). <S> The tyres and tubes might have suffered but should be OK. <A> Is this the same bicycle that got knocked by a car? <S> Considering that it has an aluminum frame, I suggest you should carefully check it for cracks. <S> They can actually be easier to spot now that dirt and water has had time to work itself into them. <S> More details can be found in e.g. this question: I was in a collision the other day. <S> What should I check? <A> Braking ability, it might be highly impacted since there'll be deposits on the rim and the pad both. <S> Brake levers might also ought to be checked up. <S> Check the valves for air after 2 3 use. <S> Apart from this, everything will be better again with regular maintenance and usage. <A> According to my experience, most likely you'll be able to make it work again. <S> But the question is, will it be worth fixing it <S> (time + cost)? <S> I mean, if you have to replace many parts and pay a lot of money to fix it (repairing fee), it'll be a good choice to buy a new one. <S> Because even if you fix it, it's not going to be the same especially when you left it outside uncovered (or when you didn't fix it correctly). <S> If they think repairing cost is high, then you should consider buying a new one. <S> If not, then you should repair it. <A> Bring it into the local bike shop and ask for a full tuneup. <S> They will let you know what needs to be replaced, which we can only guess at without seeing the bike itself (a picture of the bike as it is now would help us guess better than a picture of a new one, though.) <S> My guess based on the damage my bike has suffered from parking outside during the winter is that you'll definitely have to replace the chain, and possibly the cassette (regular wear wouldn't be too bad on the cassette, but after a year...). <S> Maybe some other minor things. <S> None of those are especially expensive. <S> I'd count on a final bill of roughly $50 for the tuneup and $10-$70 for the parts (on the low end of that if the cassette is fine).
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You may also have to replace other parts like brakes (pad set, cable), front shock, tubes, cassette, chainring, etc ( depend on the bicycle condition ) especially if they got rusty. Pump up the tires and make sure they hold air. I think you should show it to a mechanic and get his/her advice.
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Where are stolen bikes sold? I live in a city on the east coast. I recently had my bike stolen. The frame was locked to a bike rack using a u-lock. They either picked or cut the u-lock. My simple question is: where do thieves sell stolen bicycles? More specific questions: If they sell them on Craigslist, how far away are they likely to sell them? Surely not the same city, right? Are they likely to wait a few months before selling them, in order to let the heat die down? I imagine flea markets and bike swaps are dangerous places to sell bikes? What are the top sites on the internet? Any input is helpful! <Q> I think that there are two kinds of bicycle thieves: Opportunistic <S> Professional <S> An opportunistic bike thief is most likely and opportunistic petty criminal, getting their hands on whatever they can. <S> This kind of thief is just looking for pennies on the value of the stolen items, and will likely try to sell them at a pawn shop or flea market. <S> Do this ASAP <S> If your bike was expensive and your lock was cut, you may be dealing with a more professional thief. <S> These folks will go through greater pains not to get caught by parting out the bike, or selling it in a different location. <S> In this case, keep your eye on Craigslist in both your area and areas around you, on websites like letgo, or on local Facebook buy/sell groups. <S> Good luck! <A> For future reference, I put two labels with name and phone number on the bike. <S> One on the handlebar stem, for easy finding, and easy removal by thieves. <S> One under the bottom bracket by the serial number, where the police will find it if it ever comes their way, and where thieves won't notice. <S> Quite common for bikes to be borrowed, then abandoned. <S> Also had a few bikes secured/moved by well-meaning janitors or others. <S> In both these cases a label might help the bike find its way home. <A> Professional bike thieves go as far as selling your bikes overseas in places such as Africa Evidence from Montreal
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I suggest checking local pawn shops and the like with your bike receipt and serial number in hand.
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What is the deal with serrated/non-smooth rim sides on a bike wheel? I recently decided to replace the rear wheel on my road bike since I couldn't disassemble the old Helicomatic freewheel I now have a new rim, which oddly has slightly serrated sides (I'll add a picture tomorrow), while the original wheel was smooth. As a consequence, the rear brake doesn't create a lot of friction which I think is dangerous. However, the seller insisted that the wheel was meant for rim brakes. Am I being lied to or what do I need to do to get proper brake grip on the rim? <Q> These are just machining marks from the tool that cut the braking surface. <S> Rim manufacturers don't bother to get the braking surface completely smooth. <S> The tiny grooves don't negatively affect brake performance and will eventually wear away. <S> You'll need to look for other causes of brake performance problems. <S> Do you have new pads. <S> New pads on a new rim make need 'breaking in', i.e. get a little wear before they achieve proper friction. <A> Steel and carbon fiber rims have both been made with deliberately rough brake tracks. <S> The downside is how it degrades brake feel, in some cases to the point of causing a juttery feel. <S> It's also harder on brake pads. <A> This is very common. <S> I've had numerous intermediate level wheels from various manufacturers (Shimano, Fulcrum, Mavic) <S> and they've all had slight groves in the braking surface
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At different points in time it's been done to increase brake friction for rim materials that can otherwise be subpar in that regard.
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Is it possible to replace a MTB crankset to a Roadbike crankset on an MTB frame? I just want my bike to go as fast on a road and can go trails as well. Update: I got a gear calculator app and this is what I would get if I upgrade my cassette and chainrings. A more than 10kph difference based on my normal cadence of 70. I hope this app is accurate. Kinda stick to all MTB parts and will not mixed with roadbike crank since its not workable. I think I may be pedaling slower for this upgrade but pretty sure will get used to it and improve my pedaling power in the long run. <Q> Sure you can, but its not going to do a lot for your overall speed. <S> As long as the BB to crank interface is the same, you can put whatever crank on you like. <S> Any older bike will have a square taper interface. <S> Newer bikes can have Octalink or something newer again. <S> You will require the same interface, and a crank puller to suit. <S> You can also change the rear cassette for one with a smaller-small cog. <S> 11 tooth is the common minimum size. <S> Downside of all this is that the bike is still about the same weight, and you're not putting in any more power. <S> So the bike's going to go about the same speed <S> but you'll be pedaling fractionally slower. <A> So your goal is to increase the gear ratio range of the bike for better performance on paved surfaces. <S> Know this: unless you are running a too-high cadence in your highest gear or completely spinning out on the road i.e., you cannot pedal any faster, there is absolutely no point in changing gear ratios. <S> Speed is determined by the rider's power, not gear ratios. <S> That said... <S> If the picture is your bike it seems to have a square taper or Octalink bottom bracket. <S> Depending on the BCD of your spider you may be able to simply fit a set of larger chainrings. <S> You may be tempted to just increase the size of the big ring, but that has negative consequences: <S> Front derailleurs have a max big-small ring tooth count differencethat you might exceed. <S> You may exceed the total capacity of the rear derailleur (differencein teeth big-small front + difference in teeth big-small in thecassette) <S> Shifting between rings with a too large difference in size may bepoor or impossible. <S> Update: Also check the above if changing set of rings or whole crank. <S> You also need to check that you have enough chainstay clearance for larger rings. <A> I got a gear calculator app and this would I get If I upgrade my cassette and chainrings. <S> A more than 10kph difference based on my normal cadence of 70. <S> I hope this app is accurate. <S> Kinda stick to all mtb parts and will not mixed with roadbike crank since its not workable. <S> I think I may be pedalling slower for this upgrade but pretty sure will get used to it and improve my pedalling power in the long run.
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Another option is to change the chainrings for larger ones, but that can have issues with too-large a jump between chainrings. You can fit any compatible triple crank you want.
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Popping/flexing, but *not* when pedaling hard My road bike is making very noisy popping/flexing sounds when pedaling. There are multiple sounds in a semi-regular pattern with each pedal stroke, and I can feel extra movement through the pedals as I hear the sounds. The sounds are most pronounced at moderate intensity and still present at light intensity, but when I do a hard sprint or threshold effort (i.e. when the drive-train is under constant pressure) the sounds disappear. Also, if I grab a pedal with my hand and press my weight down on the crank, I can feel some give and hear a sound as I do this. <Q> Check for any movement or play between:- The pedals and crank arms- <S> Crank arms and crank axle- <S> Crank axle and the bottom bracket shell <S> If there is movement between the crank arms and crank axle don't ride the bike . <S> Alloy cranks moving on steel axles will be irreparably destroyed. <S> Check that the pedals turn smoothly, and the crank turns smoothly in the bottom bracket. <S> It helps a great deal if you get the chain off the rings when you make the latter check. <S> If there is play, 'hitches', 'notchiness' or a grinding feeling when turning the pedal or crank, the bearings are wearing out / worn out. <S> You have not said what material frame you have or what bottom bracket type you have <S> but some press fit bearings tend to be creaky. <A> The problem was found and resolved successfully. <S> The bottom bracket was worn out and needed replacing. <A> When threaded connections become loose or dry, they creak. <S> If you haven't given your rig some greasy lovin' in a while, this is probably your issue. <S> To fix it: <S> Disassemble <S> Lubricate Reassemble <S> The creaking may be coming out of your drivetrain, but it could also be connections in your cockpit. <S> If you're still having this issue after the above three steps, it may be time to start inspecting your highest mileage components. <S> As for the "movement through the pedals," can you please explain what this means?
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I would suspect a problem in the bottom bracket, but would also check pedal spindles and bearings.
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Restoring a steel Japanese bike from the early 80s I recently picked up a Shogun 2001 touring bike from the early 80s. It's hardly been ridden and has a beautiful double-lugged frame with F&R racks, Al fenders and brazed-on threaded fittings for all of those those. It's an 18-speed with Shimano 600 DX brakes & hubs, Deore front & rear derailleurs & triple crank and some odd Deore pedals (see the pic). It even sported the original tires, w/the Shogun name, which are barely worn. But I have a couple of questions moving forward about bringing her back and upgrading. I want wider handlebars -- 44cm. Where do I get those? What (stem) clamp size do I need to be looking for? Obviously it's not 38.1mm. It has natural gum-rubber brake-lever hoods that are deteriorated. I want to replace these. What will work? I don't care about the color; synthetic black rubber hoods are fine. It has braze-on downtube friction shifters. I want to install bar ends. What, if anything, do I need to be watching out for when I do this? Given that it's a 6-speed, do I have to us old ones, such as a set of Suntour 3090s? Or can I use newer ones that are 9 or 10 speed? I've never seen pedals (see photo) that attach to the crank arms quite like these. There's a fat bolt spacer between the pedal and the crank arm, and they appear to be held on the back of the crank with a bolt. I don't object to these pedals but I'd like to know how to remove them if they ever need work. Can they be replaced with conventional pedals if need be? <Q> I want wider handlebars -- 44cm. <S> Where do I get those? <S> What (stem) <S> clamp size <S> do I need to be looking for? <S> As far as I know, 25.4mm was pretty standard internationally for handlebars for a long time. <S> You can probably improvise a pair of calipers by pinching the bars with a crescent wrench, then measuring the gap. <S> It has natural gum-rubber brake-lever hoods that are deteriorated. <S> I want to replace these. <S> What will work? <S> I don't care about the color; synthetic black rubber hoods are fine. <S> These are typically referred to as non-aero brake hoods . <S> It has braze-on downtube friction shifters. <S> I want to install bar ends. <S> What, if anything, do I need to be watching out for when I do this? <S> Given that it's a 6-speed, do I have to us old ones, such as a set of Suntour 3090s? <S> Or can I use newer ones that are 9 or 10 speed? <S> I'm not sure about all models of bar-end shifters, but the Dura-Ace ones can be set in two different modes: <S> indexed and friction . <S> Indexed shifting clicks into place for each gear, and friction shifting requires you to manually fine-tune the placement of the lever. <S> Obviously, indexed shifting will not work for 9/10-speed shifters to a 6-speed freewheel. <S> I've never seen pedals (see photo) that attach to the crank arms quite like these. <S> There's a fat bolt spacer between the pedal and the crank arm, and they appear to be held on the back of the crank with a bolt. <S> Disclaimer: <S> This is purely speculation, BUT I would wager that the bit you see on the back is actually a kind of large-to-small-diameter bolt hole adapter (not sure what it's actually called). <S> I suspect you might be able to remove the pedals normally, and then unscrew the adapter from the back of the crank with a socket wrench. <S> ( N.b. <S> left pedals are reverse-threaded; i.e., righty-loosey, lefty-tighty.) <A> I put 44cm handlebars and a new quill stem on my 1980 Rayleigh Super Course a few years ago. <S> You can get new Dia Comp brake hoods as well. <S> I got mine from the bike shop that Sheldon Brown worked at. <S> They had bar end shifters as well but were a bit expensive. <S> You can also look at Rivendell. <S> The hard part is the rear hub. <S> The drop outs are 126mm apart and finding a recently manufactured premium 126mm free wheel hub is difficult. <S> I gave my Rayleigh to my son when he moved to Europe <S> so I haven’t recently looked but for a lot of money, there was one offered by Phil Wood a few years ago. <S> If you can rebuild what you have, I suggest you do. <S> You can get hydroglide <S> notched free wheels. <S> They are a bit touchy on a down tube friction shifter. <S> At a certain point a new bike is cheaper and better <A> Other parts have already been answered, so here is info about the pedals: <S> To make room for the bearings, the crank has larger than usual hole. <S> The supposed benefit is that the foot is right at rotational axis instead of above it, or zero stack height. <S> If you want to install normal pedals, there are adapters available. <S> Search for "dyna drive adapter". <A> You'll find the pedal threads into the spacer and the spacer is fastened to the crank. <S> As long as noone has drilled or tapped the crank eyeholes, you'll be able to fit a normal 9/16" threadded pedal axle. <S> Left side will be a mirror of the right side, so left hand thread on the left side. <S> Mind out for any thin washers <S> - if there are washers keep them in place on the new pedals to help protect the crank's eyelets. <S> I know this model-name was imported into New Zealand and resold as "Healing Shogun" to test the market. <S> The early ones were double butted Tange steel and had decent spec. <S> Later years were made locally with cheaper single butted tube so were heavier.
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Those pedal adapters are possibly Q-factor adapters, intended to increase the width of the pedal platform. They are Shimano Dyna Drive, a system that has bearings partially inside the crank and no axle through the pedal instead of the setup with bearings under the foot.
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Road bikes for tall guys I'm looking to find out about any beginner road bikes for tall, and somewhat larger guys. I am currently 6'8" and 305lbs. Been losing weight a lot, so I plan to be somewhere between 250 to 265 sometime soon. I'm curious as to if there are any good bikes for a guy of my size, or if I need to have one custom made. My previous experience on bikes have been mountain bikes, but nothing too serious (difficult to sprint on those). If anyone could be of some help I'd appreciate it. Thank you. <Q> I'm 6 foot 5 or 195cm tall, with a weight of ~93 kg. <S> I've cracked two frames over time by doing this, and bent seatposts too. <S> So at its most basic, you need to get the right distance from your saddle-top down to your BB axle. <S> For me that is 840mm +-10 <S> mm. <S> If I can't get that set on a frame, its too small for me. <S> Note, I have proportionally longer legs than torso. <S> Once that's right, reach to the bars is next. <S> That is set via trial and error <S> , I don't even know what my measurement there is. <S> At a guess, you're looking for a 60cm frame size or larger. <S> Rare and expensive, so you may have to take whatever's available. <S> And do let us know how you get on. <A> We try to avoid specific brand recommendations here, but I'm going to violate protocol. <S> Rivendell Bikes makes their A. Homer Hilson in a 64-cm frame, which is pretty huge. <S> This would not be a cheap option, but probably cheaper than custom. <S> Lennard Zinn is a very tall guy, is a framebuilder who specializes in frames for the very tall, and also happens to answer technical questions in a column at Velonews. <S> He might be able to recommend some other off-the-rack options. <A> I'd probably look at a cyclocross bike or a gravel grinder like a niner RLT or a Surly. <S> They are capable road bikes but have relaxed geometries that fit big guys better. <S> They are not going to match the thoroughbred tour <S> de <S> whatever bikes, but with appropriate tires you will get good performance and have fun! <S> The components tend to be a little more durable than pure weight-minimizing road parts, to counter the weight limitations you're going to encounter. <S> For reference, I'm 6'5" and 230, so smaller than you, but fit very well on a 62cm RLT.
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The most important thing is to find a frame that fits you - if you try to up-size a small frame, it means long seatposts with lots of leverage into the frame. Start with a used bike and see how it works for you before commissioning a custom bike.
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Are there very deep (>40mm) rims with at least 32 spoke holes? I've been looking some days for different wheel options and it looks like it is really hard to find rims that fulfill the following: Deep rims (40mm or more) At least 32-36 spokes Durable (reliable for touring) Reasonably priced (range 400-600€ both) Don´t have to be ultralight but not much more than 1kg. I really like riding with deep rims but I found only pre-built wheels in the following two categories: Entry level: Wheels have the aero form just for aesthetics and usually are pretty bad, low number of spokes, crap hubs... Around 100-300€ per set. Really expensive wheels of carbon fiber starting at around 1000€ per set. Why is not there something in between? Is not there enough interest for such wheels? I think I have just seen 2 o 3 models which could fit and one of them is hard to get from Europe. <Q> Very deep aero rims exist for one reason: <S> To minimise drag. <S> The difference, however, between, say, 20mm and 40mm deep rims, is not that big. <S> So if you are concerned about drag, loosing a few spokes gives another few points in air resistance (as does using aero (blade) spokes). <S> To phrase it differently: You would not use the (much rarer) very deep rims unless you also save on drag by using less spokes. <S> I figure you are in fact not that concerned about drag. <S> You did not speak highly of aesthetics either. <S> That lets me assume you believe that deep rims are more durable. <S> This has been discussed on this site here . <S> My recommendation would be a good, proven, durable rim with 36 spokes (they are in fact not that expensive) and, considering your budget, have your wheels build to your liking. <S> Edit (based on your comment): <S> You say you want your bike to be "fast during the week" for commuting. <S> Bear in mind, though, that the clothing you would be most likely to wear or even panniers add considerable drag as well. <S> The weight you will be carrying further limits the effectiveness. <S> I can still recommend not being overly focussed on drag. <S> If you fancy deep rims, go for them. <S> But, unless you have a particularly long and exciting way to work, I am pretty sure you would be quite hard pressed to feel a difference between box rims with 36 spokes and very deep ones with 24 spokes, commuting. <S> Any usual number of spokes is fine to carry you (at 80kg). <S> However, if you plan to carry loads (eg. doing groceries regularly), I would err on the safe side. <A> Deep section rims were primarily developed for aerodynamic gains for TT (time trial) and now road racing in general. <S> In this application low weight and a low spoke count are the design priorities. <S> These design priorities are at odds with the touring application, where speeds are slower, aerodynamics at generally ignored (panniers hanging off the bike are essentially parachutes), and robustness is the top priority. <S> In the last couple decades deep section rims have also been cooped as a fashion statement by urban hipsters, so there may be the odd manufacturer who made something to fill this cross-over (e.g., Velocity Deep-V) <S> but now you are heading into boutique custom wheel builds. <A> Like you I run one bike for a range of things - commuting, touring, audax and the occasional faster ride. <S> It's a tourer. <S> When I want to spend the money I'll get a second wheel set: narrower (and narrower tyres), fewer spokes, lighter, deeper. <S> Then I'll have one wheelset for fast, another for tough. <S> Swapping wheels is quick enough to be not worth worrying about especially as I could commute on either set.
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As such, few if any manufacturer have developed a deep section touring rim as the functional use case makes little sense.
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Why did both of my inner tubes blow out on a new bike I've only put 4 hours on? I bought a new Diamondback Trace hybrid bike about a month ago. Rode it twice for about an hour a piece and the last time for about two hours. I had no problems any of the times and inflated the tires to about 70psi each time, well within the range specified. A week after the last ride I loaded my bike into the back of my Honda CRV. I didn't check the pressures at that time but they were obviously not flat. I ended up leaving the bike in the Honda for 4 or 5 days before finally unloading it. It became immediately apparent that both tires were completely flat. I took a look at one of the inner tubes and there was a four inch split at the seam that runs the full side of the tube. it was about 90-95 degrees on the days it was in the car and considerably hotter inside the car I would assume. based on the fact that the tires were aired up when put in the car and completely flat when I pulled it out days later I kinda assume it had to do with the heat. I'm just curious if other people have had this happen to them or if it might be something else I haven't considered. id appreciate any insight you have to offer <Q> I have had a couple of times that an inner tube blew up while the bike was parked in bright sunlight. <S> It seems that high temperatures are a contributing factor, but <S> overpressure? <S> I never pump my tires close to the maximum pressure, mostly the pressure is in the lower half of the min-max range. <S> The pressure of compressed air increases proportionally to the absolute temperature, i.e. 273+T ; T in degrees centigrade. <S> Hence an increase from 95F (35°C) to, say, 140F (60°C) will result in an increase by only 8%. <S> I don't believe this itself is causing the blow outs. <S> More likely the blow outs are due to an undersized inner tube in combination with a high temperature. <S> Beyond a point it starts a plastic deformation. <S> I guess that this point drops with higher temperatures. <S> Most inner tubes are specified for a certain width range, e.g. 18<-->23C for road bike clinchers. <S> The remedy is to buy an inner tube that matches closely with the tire width. <A> Tires blowing up in hot cars is a common occurrence, especially for high pressure road tires which are often already inflated to the specified maximum pressure. <S> Heat expands the air inside the inner tube, as the pressure builds eventually something gives resulting in a rupture like you experienced. <S> (Typically the tire bead comes off the rim, the inner tube escapes out, and without the reinforcement of the tire casing it expands until it ruptures.) <S> Pro tip: if you are storing a bike in a hot car, reduce the pressure in the tires. <S> Carry a floor pump to reinflate the tires before you ride. <A> I'll take the contrary opinion that high temperatures won't increase tire pressure enough to blow the tire. <S> Using the Ideal Gas Law PV=nRT and solving for pressure <S> : P=nRT/V. Since n, R, and V are constant, if we increase T by some factor, the pressure increases by that same factor. <S> (ok, the volume may increase a bit as the tire heats up, but not a lot) <S> So if the tire starts at 60 degrees F (288K) and it increases in temperature to 120F (322K), that's a factor of 322/288=1.12. <S> So if the starting pressure is 70PSI, it will end up at 78PSI. <S> Which shouldn't be enough to make it blow out since there's a margin of safety in the tire pressure ratings. <S> Even if the sun was beating down on the tire directly and raised it to 180F, that'd still only lead to a 23% rise in pressure, and I'd hope that there's a much better margin of error than 23% in tire pressure ratings. <S> I used to ride with a biking friend that switched from 23mm tires with a high 160psi pressure rating to 25mm tires with a 90psi rating, and he didn't notice the difference and he spent months filling it to 160psi until someone pointed it out to him. <S> This is pretty close to the rule of thumb of <S> 1 psi of pressure rise for every 10 degrees in temperature rise , which would predict that the 60 degree rise in temperature would lead to a final pressure of 76psi. <S> Also, tubes don't hold in pressure, tires and rims do, and the original poster said that his tube was split, not that the tire blew or the rim failed. <S> I suspect that it's a bad tube that failed during use, poor installation that damaged the tube and eventually fail, or maybe no (or bad) rim tape that led to the tube being damaged. <S> I just noticed that Batman gave an almost identical answer to mine in a different answer <A> This happened to me today and I'll offer a possible explanation. <S> I think I may have inflated my rear tyre on my Brompton too much. <S> Anyway I cycled to work <S> (this was a new tube by the way) and stored it under my desk. <S> It was very warm in the office. <S> After about 6 hours there was a loud hiss that took everyone by surprise - the tyre was flat. <S> I took it to my local shop and, sure enough, it was not a puncture but an internal blow out. <S> Who knows it may have just been a weak tube, a slight pinch in the replacement fitting - OR <S> the universe simply wanted me to experience it!!
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So IF a tyre is over-inflated AND the ambient temp causes the air in the tube to expand then it MAY have been the cause of the blow out. Rubber is a material that behaves elastically in a limited range.
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Can I swap a 700c onto a 26"/650b bike Can I put a 700c (28") wheel on a 26" or 650b fork, it looks like I'll have plenty of room but I would need to get something to move my v brakes as they wouldn't touch the rim <Q> I assume you have a mountain bike, as you have a 26"/27.5" fork. <S> Answering the question in the title: 26", 27.5" and 29" mountain bike wheels all have approximately that diameter with a tire installed. <S> Obviously the actual diameter of a particular wheel depends on the size of tire installed on it. <S> The rim sizes are 559, 584 and 622mm respectively, as defined by ISO standards. <S> In road bike circles 584 and 622mm rims are also known as 650b and 700c - hangovers from a old French wheel size system. <S> So on a MTB, you need about 1.5" of extra clearance to fit a 29" wheel instead of a 26" wheel. <S> Can you fit a 29" wheel on your 26"/27.5" fork? <S> Not really. <S> Even if you have the clearance, adapters to move the rim brakes are not available (to my knowledge, maybe there is some speciality manufacturer out there). <S> In addition, bike frame and fork geometry is designed around a specific wheel diameter. <A> If you are comfortable riding a frankenbike, there are several scenarios where you can put a 622 wheel in a 26" fork. <S> The brake contact location moves about 32mm, but if you run disc or hub brakes they will not be impacted, and v-brake arm lengths vary from 75 mm to 120 mm, so if the mounting points on your fork are not too low you can switch out v-brake arms. <S> If you keep a similar final tire diameter, the fork should not have clearance issues and the geometry and stresses on the frame will remain the same. <S> So, if you had 26"x2.50" to start with, a 622x32 mm would have the same final diameter. <S> MTB frames also usually have extra clearance, so you might be able to squeeze in a 38 or 44 with slight changes to riding geometry. <S> You might also have to contend with different hub widths. <S> 100, 110, and 120 mm are all available MTB front hub sizes, with 100 the most common, but if you're getting a free wheel it might be a different size. <S> Steel forks can usually be gently bent in or out to accommodate different sizes of hub, but aluminum and composite forks should not be run with different size hubs. <S> Even if you can wedge it in it can lead to failure when riding. <S> Even if you get it to fit, having different sized front and rear wheels will lead to challenges in maintenance, you'll need 2 spare tubes and 2 spare tires, you'll have different brake arm lengths that may apply braking force differently, and it will look funny. <S> But if you can't afford to buy the correct replacement wheel and tire and need transportation, it will get you around. <A> Two great answers. <S> A supplement to both is that everything will be higher including your bottom bracket, seatpost, toptube, and head tube (assuming you swap both front and rear): <S> Seatpost means that the minimum height of the seatpost will be higher. <S> Top tube means your top tube clearance will be less and your boy- or <S> girl-bits may be at risk when making a planned or unplanned dismount Bottom bracket means on the positive that you have more clearance <S> but on the negative you may have to raise your seatpost higher to achieve optimal cranking and this may make you top heavy Head tube means your handlebars will also be raised and this may limit your tuck-ability Etc. <S> If you swap just the front, your bike will feel as though it’s always going uphill.
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You could find an appropriate cyclocross tire in that size that would be reasonable on a 26" MTB frame. If you change the wheel size, the steering geometry will be altered, usually with negative effects.
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Precautions when riding in long-term low visibility Heavy fog or a narrow, overgrown and winding trail, can reduce visibility to 3 meters. Those conditions can continue for hours, and the safest approach 'don't go' cannot be always taken. I find that riding with appropriate speed as to be able to stop within those 3 meters can be quite fun and rewarding riding experience. This allows for safely intercepting tourists and animals (boars, turtles, bears, cows, horses). However, should a runner or another cyclist approach from the opposite direction , being able to stop by the end of your vision field becomes insufficient to avoid a crash. What steps can be taken to reduce the ever present risk of this happening. One approach is riding at walking pace or just walking. This seems appropriate to city parks or heavily inhabited trails. However, on a winding trail, this could mean pushing the bike for hours. Clearly not mountain biking! I have used a small speaker with quiet popular rock music. No idea if it did increase safety, but it did annoy some tourists, wanting to enjoy nature and peace. The only bike-only trails in my country are several downhill racing courses. All other trails are shared, with widely varying traffic loads. I have trails like this in mind, but with more vegetation and more turns: <Q> Adjust your speed for the road/trail conditions, especially on shared trails; they are not meant for "high" speed cycling. <S> Anecdotal, in Montreal, on the mountain, there's a gravel path, the Chemin Olmstead, shared by everyone, walkers, runners, cyclists and families, when cycling, it is understood that we should go slow, going and more especially going down. <S> If the trail is not large enough and you are forced to dismount and walk, then you should not bike on it. <S> In the fog (and night), you need to make yourself visible, wear some reflective clothing/harness/sash and have some small blinking lights in front and back of your bike (blinking is better than always on lights) <S> As for the music, I would advise against it, it is annoying as heck <S> and it <S> not a safety plus (IMO). <A> I think you mostly answered your own question, i.e. slow down and take more care as conditions dictate. <S> Traditionally this means a bicycle bell. <S> Pedestrians associate the sound of a bell with and approaching bicycle and mostly act appropriately. <S> Your rock music would act as a continuous alert but some people may be confused (or annoyed) by it. <A> Having a light that casts a visible beam at least 33 feet in front of your bicycle extends the visibility out in front of your direction of travel. <S> A car or other vehicle behind an obstacle can see the light cross their direction of travel before they emerge, giving them an awareness of your presence. <S> This still necessitates caution, but the 33 feet gives you a healthy stopping distance to react to dangerous situations.
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If you don't want to have to slow down or walk, bicycle where there are less or no pedestrians. A bright, focused light can be very helpful in situations low visibility or frequent visual obstacles. If you are in areas where there are many pedestrians, some form of audible warning is useful.
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How to deflate a tire properly? I need to flatten my bicycle tire. What is the safest and best way to do this? What I mean by safest is: I want to reinflate it again afterward. <Q> It's quite common to deflate a tube for some valid reason, like you want to change a worn out tyre or replace a spoke. <S> If your valve is a Schrader (a car style) then you remove the cap by twisting, then use a pokey object to depress the center pin in the valve to release the air slowly. <S> If the valve is not tight, you can tighten it or replace it using this tool. <S> If your valve is a Presta (a French valve, more common on high pressure road bikes) <S> then it's easier. <S> Remove the cap by twisting, then back off the knurled nut, by twisting two or three turns. <S> No need to remove it completely. <S> Finally press the end of the pin with your bare finger. <S> If you have a Woods or Dunlop valve, then the valve core needs to be loosened, by twisting. <S> (Seems like there's a common twisting element here!) <S> The knurled nut holds the whole valve stem down, so back this one off til air comes out. <S> If you undo it completely, the valve core can fly out and be lost. <S> These are common on Japanese and German bikes, or old English bikes. <S> Regardless of the valve, escaping air makes a loud hissing noise. <S> Don't be startled. <S> The air coming out also smells rubbery and is prety cold - <S> this is fine. <S> If you have airless tyres (foam filled ones), you cannot let the air out - they have to be cut off the rim generally. <S> These don't have a valve stem at all and are quite unusual. <A> I've made a deflating tool for Schrader valves (car style). <S> It's a plastic valve cap with two holes drilled across it to let the air out and a blunt-ended screw threaded in from the top. <S> Simply screw it onto the valve <S> and it lets all the air out. <S> It works well with an adaptor for Presta. <S> This is really useful when you want to get all the air out, e.g. when rolling up a patched tube for storage. <S> This is a workshop tool; at the roadside (if on a bike with Schrader valves) I typically use the end of a plastic tyre lever. <S> That's one reason for carrying that particular set of tyre levers (they hook onto the spokes <S> and it's the hook that presses the valve). <S> For Presta valves finger pressure does the trick. <A> In my youth I did 4WDing, and it was a common accessory to have a set of four valve caps for schrader. <S> They were pre-set to a specific pressure, so you could drive on road at road pressures of maybe 35 PSI, arrive at the meeting place and "air down" using these to drop your tire pressure to 25 PSI or 17 PSI or whatever your preset was. <S> They were a lot quicker than holding the pin and checking every 20 seconds. <S> 4WD car tires hold a heap more air and can take minutes to come down to an off-road pressure. <S> The top part is adjusted to pressure and locked using the lock ring. <S> You wouldn't ride or drive with these in place.
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If you want to completely deflate the tyre fast, you can use metal cap with special screwdriver to remove the valve from its case. A nail, or the end of a house key, or a Phillips-head screwdriver are all effective pokey things.
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Fix up old road bike or buy new one? Coming back to riding after a long layoff, my Cannondale R500, purchased around 2000, according to the local bike shop, needs a lot of work - new wheels, cassette, chain, cables. Also replaced stem with a new taller one so I don't have to bend down as low. LBS is saying the tune-up/restoration will be around 400 and offered a new entry level Giant for around 650 and won't charge me for the work they've already done on the old bike. Not sure what to do. The Cannondale rides fine to me, but to be honest, I haven't put that much mileage on it recently so haven't really tested it. I'm a casual rider, planning to do long rides 3-4 times a month and a century or two this year. My options are: 1 - Pay for whatever work they did and fix the bike up myself. Don't have a lot of tools and wondering if I did do my own work, I'd wind up wasting a lot of time and paying for tools I don't have. 2 - Have bike shop restore Cannondale, hope it holds up. 3 - Buy new bike. I don't need a great bike, not picky, don't need the latest and greatest - just want something that will be maintenance free-ish for the next 10-15 years. I can afford a new bike, but I rather use the money for other things. And it just seems like a waste to abandon the Cannondale. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. <Q> If you are coming back from a long layoff, I'd fix the Cannondale, then if you keep up riding in the future, spend some time considering if you want to upgrade and what to. <S> It's never a good idea to be choosing a new bike under pressure to get riding. <S> Cables and housings - yes that's a good idea and relatively inexpensive, but you could do that yourself. <S> Chain and cassette - make the shop prove they are worn out to the point of needing replacement. <S> If not ride them until the do. <S> Definitely get the shop to explain why exactly they want to replace the wheels, and what they want to replace them with. <S> You might be able to get a better deal on the used market through Craigslist or Ebay. <A> Unless the reason you were off the bike was an injury that changed your fit, you've already got a bike that suits you. <S> That's worth a bit <S> (how much is a personal decision but <S> I rate it fairly high). <S> That aside you can end up with a good as new bike (or very nearly given what they're proposing) for 400 or 650. <S> Needing new wheels is a bit odd, but there are plenty of good reasons, depending on how far you've ridden it. <S> Wheels are easy to replace - no more trouble than changing a cassette and a tyre plus tuning gears/brakes, but if they're working on the drivetrain that's a good time to fit a new wheel of you need one. <S> Overall it probably comes down to whether getting back on an old favourite or having a shiny new toy pleases you more. <A> Thanks to all for the responses. <S> I chose to have the LBS fix my current bike. <S> To add more info, while I haven't ridden lately, I did ride it a lot for many years after I got it, it has about 15K miles on it, but for the last 5 years, not much. <S> All that time, I never did any maintenance on it, no new components, no nothing. <S> The LBS explained in depth why the new parts were needed and I decided to go with what they wanted to do. <S> They suggested a new front wheel too, but I decided against that, I'll change that myself. <S> So for about 375ish (got down the price a little), I got a new rear wheel, new cassette, new chain, new stem, new brake cables, new brake pads, <S> whatever's included in the $100 tune-up package (I forget). <S> I'm mainly glad to hand off the drivetrain stuff to a professional to do, not so sure I'd do a good job of that myself. <A> Most of the parts listed are consumables that you would expect to replace based on mileage at some point. <S> All told, spending $400 to bring a bike up to snuff isn't bad. <S> You could spend 2/3rds of that on new tires. <S> I suggest go with the repairs, but be sure that the replacement parts are of equivalent componentry-level. <S> In other words, replace Shimano 105 with 105 or better. <S> Replace Ultegra with Ultegra or better. <S> If you spend $400 or $500 to bring it back to life, and you ride it a couple thousand miles, it's money well spent. <S> If, after a couple thousand miles you decide you really are itching for a new CF frame and higher-end components, buy a new bike, and fit your old one with a rack and fenders to use as a commuter or local-errand bike. <S> If you spend $400 to $500 to bring it back to life and then don't go on to ride it a couple thousand miles, you're only out $400-$500. <S> Remember, buying a new bike is only the start -- it still will need pedals, a saddle bag, cycling computer, lights, etc. <S> A $1800 bike will set you back $200 to $2200 just for typical add-ons. <S> If your existing bike has these, keeping riding the old one is vastly more economical. <S> I do like the concept of eventually owning two road bikes though -- <S> That R500 would make a great general purpose bike when you do get to the point that you decide it's worthwhile to buy a new bike.
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Wheels are somewhat dubious -- that really depends on what the problem is, but replacement wheels of equal quality to the stock wheels that came with the bike are probably not exorbitantly expensive. Make sure the things the repair shop wants to replace are really needed.
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I have changed the chain after my gauge showed that it's .75 worn. New chain jumps anyway. Why? How to deal with it? I am riding MTBs for over 8 years and either the rules and tools to measure the chain wear do not work or I don't understand how to use them.. I have bought Canyon Exceed with 1x11 SRAM drivetrain. I have been measuring the chain wear and after 1500 km the chain gauge showed .75, which as I understand means, that the chain is worn and need to be replaced, but the cassette should be ok. So I have changed the chain. Well guess what - it skipped on two sprockets. I was shocked. I had the same situation on my 3x9 Drivetrain. there I even tried to change the chain after 500km and the chain skipped on the 2 smallest sprockets. I keep my drivetrain quite clean, and lube it frequently, of course this new bike was always washed and lubed.. I don't know what I do wrong.. I expected that the 1x11 drivetrain will help me to avoid this problem, since all the shifting happens only on the cassette side and not on the chainrings. Maybe some of you have some suggestions, how I can avoid this problem - next to that will the SRAM x-sync 32 chainring (small aluminium chainring) be worn too if I will put the old worn chain again? Thanks a lot! Gidi <Q> The general rule does seem to be 2 chains to one cassette. <S> However, if you ride a great deal on a couple of sprockets they may be worn out more than the others. <A> Don't panic. <S> Let's suppose you got the correct type of chain, <S> mounted it correctly (aren't 11sp directional?), checked your rear derailleur is well adjusted. <S> Then it is possible that the two suspect cogs are indeed worn. <S> Do look at the cassette from the side and determine if their tooth shape is different from, say, the largest one. <S> If they are indeed worn, what will now happen is that your new chain will rapidly wear to a state similar to the old one. <S> As now the chain is longer, it will stop skipping over those cogs. <S> You will be able to get some mileage on it, before it hits the 1% mark and become damaging to the front chainring. <S> If the 2 smallest cogs are indeed worn, I can imagine possible reasons, which have caused it: <S> Very gritty drivetrain. <S> Ruled out in your case. <S> You ride only on those cogs. <S> Like riding a mountain bike exclusively on road. <S> But I doubt 1500km would be enough to wear the cogs with an unworn chain. <S> You constantly overstress those cogs. <S> Like riding standing uphill or somehow managing to drop your weight on only one pedal when landing from jumps. <S> Do think about your cadence when riding. <S> Also I have heard the rule as 3 chains per cogset and 3 cogsets per chainring. <S> As you see, not too often. <A> My experience, although not with a 1x11 drivetrain, is that the chain very rapidly adapts and stops skipping. <S> Recently I replaced the chain of my 10-sp Campagnolo Chorus drive train. <S> Initially it skipped frequently, say >10 times per km, on the 17-18-19t cogs, which is my usual comfort zone. <S> After riding in a strong headwind on 21t for about 30 km and return with a tailwind on 15-16t, surprisingly the skipping on 17-18-19 had almost disappeared. <S> After another two 60 km rides the skipping has stopped completely. <S> I expect that probably next time the chain is worn, say after 5000 km (road bike), the trick doesn't work and I have to replace the cassette. <S> So my advice is to go out for a ride in which you don't use the cogs that cause skipping. <S> See what happens after that. <S> Might be interesting feedback. <S> I don't think your chainring will be harmed from this. <S> It will wear according to the actual chain elongation, independent on whether you renew or not renew the cassette.
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Take a good look at the cassette to see if any of the sprockets are worn. Perhaps make some intermediate statistics in which you do use the bad cogs and count the number of skips.
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Options for carrying a smart briefcase on a bike (pannier or otherwise) Situation I don't own a bike: however due to a recent change of office location, I have worked out that I could cycle in half the time as driving through rush-hour traffic every day. I'm therefore interested in the idea of purchasing a bike Issue I carry a smart laptop-size briefcase to work, which is just fine while driving - however I need to figure out how I would take it on a bike, if I choose to buy one. The briefcase is approximately 45cm long, 30cm high and 12cm deep. It looks similar to this one: What I've thought of I'm aware that luggage is normally taken on bikes by means of panniers. However it seems to me that directly attaching such a bag to a pannier rack by use of "spiders" (bungee cords) would be fairly unstable. The problem is that the pannier racks I have seen are usually pretty narrow (only just wider than the rear wheel); and therefore there isn't much of a stable "base" on which to place such a bag. The bag would have to lie flat - but also due to the limited length of a pannier rack, it wouldn't support the length of the bag - meaning that the bag would have to sit length-to-width. I.e the length of the bag would sit from left to right across the top of the rear wheel, only supported by a relatively narrow pannier rack in the middle. I can imagine that this would be fairly unstable. From what I see, pannier racks are intended for especially-designed bags to be able to clip onto their sides - hanging down beside the wheel. However what does one do when one has an existing bag like the one above, which would not fit into one of those soft-sided pannier bags? Does there exist some kind of pannier clip, or cage, which could attach to or contain my bag, to enable it to clip properly onto the side of a pannier rack? Does any other solution exist which I have not considered? It may be pertinent to note that my eye is on a folding bike - as I only have a small space in my shed, and nowhere to store a full-size, non-folding bike. Therefore any solution involving somehow mounting a cage within the frame under the crossbar would be impractical. Any suggestions or advice appreciated <Q> Depending on the thickness of your briefcase it may be a solution to hang it under the frame in the main triangle (if it fits there) <S> but since you are thinking about a folding bike it is not a solution. <S> I've seen something else couple of times - a special carrier for briefcases: I'm not sure how a folding bike would accommodate such a carrier as it attaches to the seat-stay and the back of the normal rear rack. <S> Another idea would be to put the front baggage rack and tie the bag there. <S> Not only is this more stable (the bag is "in your hands") <S> but you also have the bag (probably containing important documents) always in sight. <S> This is what I mean: <S> But again - folding bike limits your possibilities. <A> I do not write from experience, but I have seen pictures of a Danish rear rack with a hook for suspending a briefcase. <S> Seems like it might work well for shortish distances, although I wonder how a large a bag can be used before striking it with the heel becomes a problem. <S> Here is an example commerically available: https://velorbis.com/product/all-products/rear-carrier-for-classic-gents-bicycles/ <S> Such a rack might not fit on a folding bike. <A> You want a way to carry your briefcase on your bicycle. <S> I do not think there is any way to attach your briefcase directly to a bike rack. <S> And in my experience using bungee cords to strap a backpack to the top of a bike rack, the backpack kept on slipping loose. <S> It was generally a pain in the butt. <S> This would probably be your best bet. <S> Banjo Bros make very high quality gear, and this pannier can fold when you are not using it. <S> It's also only $40 (relatively cheap as far as panniers go). <S> The only problem is that it is not long enough to fit your briefcase. <S> But based on the dimensions (from their website) on the picture below, if you put your briefcase on its side, it should fit snugly, with only ~16cm sticking out the top. <S> And because the pannier is intended to carry (heavy) bags of groceries, you don't have to worry about your briefcase sagging. <A> However, I'd recommend against this. <S> You have a nice bag and it will get scuffed up from rubbing against the carrier and also will get dirty from general road muck being thrown at it, especially after rain. <S> Instead, I recommend leaving your nice bag in the office and using either standard panniers or a rucksack to take your stuff into work. <S> Unless you put your bag inside some other bag, it will, frankly, be wrecked by cycling with it. <A> A bicycle trunk will probably fit your bag: <S> I have used one in combination with panniers: <S> It was rugged and stable enough to handle 15kg of luggage on mountain dirt roads with rocks, mud, sand and sharp turns. <A> Tie the carry handles of the laptop bag to the saddle rails (the small bars under the saddle by which it attaches to the seat post) with an old inner tube, bungee cord, carabiner etc. <S> The bag itself rests on the rear rack. <S> This would still allow the handles to twist and the bag to move to hang beside the saddle. <S> One solution is to make small holes in the bottom corners of the laptop bag and tie the bottom corners to the sides of the rack further back than the resting place of the bag. <S> These ties would have to be fairly non-stretchy. <S> This would prevent too much side-to-side movement, keeping the bag on the rack. <S> Another solution is to use the shoulder strap or its attachment hooks to prevent side-to-side movement. <S> In this case, when viewed from the rear, the left hook of the bag should be tied to the right side of the rack and vice versa (in an X shape). <S> The left-top-to-right-bottom tie prevents the bag from moving left on the rack when viewed from the rear. <S> Symmetrically for the right-top-to-left-bottom. <A> Your bag appears to have a shoulder strap - its perfectly possible to ride with the bag on your back and the strap on one shoulder and under the other arm. <S> However there are downsides: <S> The bag will encourage sweat in that one area where it presses. <S> The bag may suddenly shift downwards, altering your balance. <S> The shoulder with the strap on it can get achy after a fairly short time. <S> Bag will be exposed to weather, and road spray if you lack a rear mudguard. <S> It will need more-frequent cleaning, and periodic weatherproofing to keep rain out.
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Rather than trying to balance the bag on top of a rear carrier, you'd want to attach it to the side. However, Banjo Brothers make a folding grocery pannier which allows you to carry bags of groceries on your bike.
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Tools needed to unmount bike pedals My two pedals are squeaking a bit and probably need to be lubricated. But, I'm not sure which tools I need to buy to unmount them. What's the size of the square drive sockets to get to unmount the pedals? After googling the pedal size I see that the majority are 9/16", but the square bits are usually in mm. Is 14mm the right size?I suppose an adjustable wrench will also prove useful to remove the pedals from the crankset. Is there another component needed for that? Below is a small picture of the pedal in question: <Q> Look on the inside of the crankarms, where the pedal threads into the crankarm, if there is a socket for a hex wrench. <S> Cheaper pedals don't and I'm guessing these don't. <S> Google around for pedal spanners to see how the professional ones look like. <S> Lastly, I once again agree with Willeke to try and oil them in place. <S> Even if you removed them, disassembling a pedal can be a challenging and tool-requiring business. <A> The Park Tool pedal wrench has 15mm and 9/16" sides, so I guess yours will be one of these sizes. <S> An adjustable wrench might work, but often the flats on the pedal spindle are not wide enough. <S> After you get the pedals off you have to figure out how to service the bearings. <S> Pedal bearings are not standardized in any way, so you should proceed with caution. <A> Don't need to remove to oil these pedals. <S> Lean your bike over to the side, pedal facing to ground. <S> Run oil down the pedal shaft into the pedal bearing - spin the pedal on the shaft, and the oil will wick into the gap between the metal and the plastic. <S> More oil until it is free and quiet. <S> A thickish oil - wet-ride ride chainlube, Chainsaw oil, or thin motor oil is probably ideal. <S> Put (thin) oil on the thread end of the pedal shaft, hoping it will wick in (back side of the crank arm), this helps keep it from rusting up for when you do need to remove it. <S> If you actually need to remove them Usually 15mm, and you might need a longish spanner or extension the first time, as shops tend to assemble them dry, and they seize up. <S> Left hand pedal is a left hand (backwards) thread. <S> Put it back in with lots of grease on the thread, so it won't seize for next time.
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Pedals require a narrow spanner, as indicated by Willeke , thus an ordinary adjustable wrench ... could work but probably won't.
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Bike handlebars loose with front wheel If I put my leg on the side of the wheel and rotate my handlebars in the direction of my leg, the bars get out of sync with the front wheel as seen in the image below. This is a threadless headset. Do y'all have any ideas? <Q> Tighten the pinch bolts, not the centre bolt. <S> I recommend putting a drop of oil on the pinch bolts thread or greasing them, as they are steel-in-aluminium, and prone to corrosion. <S> The two pinch bolts (on the back side of the stem) hold the stem on, and perform two separate effects <S> They stop the handlebars rotating <S> They lock the steering bearings. <S> The top bolt is for setting the pre-load of the steering bearings. <S> BUT once the pinch bolts are tightened, it does nothing, as the stem is now clamped in place. <S> If you loosen the pinch bolts, then you should check that the bearings are still set right. <S> If you try to tighten the bearings by cranking down the centre bolt without loosening the pinch bolts, then you pull the star washer up or you can shear it, as it is only an M6. <A> Tightening the two bolts on the back side of the stem should prevent it from turning freely. <S> Make sure you align the stem and front wheel before tightening. <S> The bolt on the top is for adjusting the headset. <S> If the headset does not have problems, you should not need to adjust that bolt. <A> Very likley you have to tighten the screw in the middle of the stem, aka the one in the middle of the cap that says "Giant". <S> You don't want to tighten into too much however, because then steering will become very hard. <S> This video gives good explanations. <S> The procedure is both the same on roadbike and mountain bike. <S> If you feel unsure what to do, got to your LBS to repair this - if wheel/handlebar become desyncronized while riding the bike you'll face major injuries.
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You cannot tighten the bearings UNTIL you loosen the pinch bolts.
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What to call bike brake levers with two gripping points? I have a Schwinn Letour bike which has brake handles that can be gripped from two different points, but the whole brake handle is a singly body of metal, as can be seen here: I am wondering what this kind of brake handles are called? <Q> I was hesitating to flag this post as a duplicate of <S> Why don't brakes come with 'Safety Levers' any more? , <S> but the other post is rich in the names of those "dual-pull" brake levers which in fact answers the OP's question. <S> So the names are: <S> Dual pull Safety Levers (manufacturer's term) Extension Levers ( Sheldon Brown ) <S> Suicide levers ( wikipedia ) Auxiliary levers ( wikipedia ) Interrupter levers - <S> these are the additional brake levers placed along the brake cable. <S> Although their position is similar to those mentioned above, they operation (and effectiveness) is different. <S> I hope this gives the OP enough possibilities to chose from. <A> It's just worth mentioning that there are modern levers that serve the same purpose but are much safer. <S> If you're trying to emulate the setup above you <S> shoudl use the new products. <S> Other names include crosstop and inline . <A> Those are drop bar brakes, with an auxilliary brake lever for the tops. <S> They are also known colloquially as "sissy bars/levers" for people who can't or won't ride on the hoods. <S> Some people refer to them as "suicide brake levers" because they don't brake as well as the hoods directly. <S> They are not brifters, or STI, or ergo-anything. <S> Those are purely brake levers and have no function of shifting at all. <S> Where would you find them? <S> Bike-Boom bicycles would be a prime candidate, dating from the mid 70s through to perhaps the late 80s. <S> Racing bikes would not have these - they would lack the boss on the brake-lever body. <S> Your pictured bike is a bit of an abberation too - the brake is not a caliper, it seems to be a cantilever with a fixed mount point at the top of the headset. <S> Most boom bikes would be a simple single pivot side pull caliper.
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They are known as cyclocross or interrupter levers and are discussed here and here .
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Do I need to be aware of my diet? I have recently started biking consistently: commute 2x 5km@12min from/to school + 1x 12km@22min in the evening before dinner almost everyday. Now I started reading and viewing deeper into the "cycling diet"-thing and realized that I generally eat a lot of sugar(cookies, chocolate bars) and fat(butter) across the day and especially for dinner after a quick power-round. My question now: Do I have to be more aware of what I am eating or is it just fine for me to eat whatever I want, like I do at the moment? PS: I don't have any weight problems by any means (55kg@1.73m@18years) <Q> General answer to: ' <S> Do I have to be more aware of what I am eating or is it just fine for me to eat whatever I want...? <S> ' <S> I'm pretty sure a doctor or nutritionist would tell you that you should eat a balanced diet, not one that is high in calories sugar and fat. <S> I'm also sure a lot of people in this community will tell you that diet gets more important an you get older and <S> a more sedentary lifestyle is forced on you (sitting at a desk 8+ hours a day). <S> If you are only doing two 5km rides a day you don't need a special diet - just a reasonably healthy one will be fine. <A> At your current level of cycling: no you do not need to follow a athlete diet, you are simply not cycling enough to need a plan behind your food intake. <S> Regardless, the diet you describe isn't the healthiest and you could do with reducing the amount of sugary food and introduce more vegetables and fruit. <A> Specific diets are more important if you are a competitive cyclist, but not as important if you are just commuting. <S> That said, a good diet will inherently be more healthy, and will benefit you in your riding and day to day life. <S> However, it's good practice to try to eat a balanced diet in general, as it can be beneficial for the body and the mind.
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So if you are training and wanting to be more fit, you should definitely focus on a good diet, but if you aren't concerned about your health otherwise, don't worry about it.
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Clothing advice for beginner I've read online not to wear underwear with bike shorts. Unfortunately, I don't have cycling specific attire. What would be a best clothing to wear (below the waist, specifically) for first time 75 km ride on the road? Riding "Ride For Heart" in Toronto this Sunday, using Norco Cyclocross bike. Update: Thank you all for the advice. The ride went well and we finished in about 3.5 - 4 hours. Avg Speed was ~20 km/h. Highest recorded - 37.5 km/h :) Used normal synthetic gym shorts with synthetic undies. No rash, but my butt hurts a bit today :) <Q> I'd invest in a pair of bike shorts. <S> Casual riders going short distances on big comfy saddles can get away with casual or regular sports clothing. <S> You won’t be able to do that riding significant distance on a sports saddle. <S> Bike shorts have padding, obviously, but are also constructed so there is no seam between rider and saddle. <S> Regular sports shorts have a central crotch seam that is painful to ride on. <S> The reason to not wear underwear under bike shorts is to not re-introduce seams between rider and saddle. <A> I didn't get proper bike shorts until I was routinely riding over 100km. <S> Before that (and still for commuting) <S> I just went for whatever I would wear in the gym . <S> However cheap gel-padded (not foam-padded) shorts from ebay have been very good for me. <S> I haven't seen them in real shops but tend to avoid real shops if possible. <S> If you're in gym shorts, it's probably a good idea to wear something underneath, to avoid draughts etc., <S> though fully lined shorts designed for some sports are also good without. <S> I do suggest that on both halves you wear something that doesn't hold too much water, whether sweat or an unexpected soaking. <S> You can get very cold even on a warm day riding wet. <A> If you wear underwear, too, things supposedly slide around too much and chafe. <S> (I say "supposedly" as I've always just followed the advice <S> so I've no personal experience of the effects.) <S> Non-cycling-specific shorts don't have the pad, so there's no particular reason not to wear underwear with them. <S> Consider how far you've already ridden that bike in one go and how you felt after that. <S> When I got my road bike, I started riding in regular gym shorts and that was fine for me until I started riding about 65km, at which point the hard saddle made my butt ache enough that I went out and bought some proper cycling shorts. <S> However, that was just the tipping point where I decided to get the proper gear. <S> 65km got a bit uncomfortable <S> so I spent some money to avoid that. <S> It's not like I was in pain or dying or anything <S> so I'm pretty sure I could have done 75km with nothing worse than discomfort. <S> Long story short, if I was going to cycle 75km, I'd prefer to get some padded cycling shorts, but I'd be OK in gym shorts. <S> You have a different butt on a different saddle and possibly different financial priorities. <S> * Middle-aged man in lycra. <A> You don't necessarily need bike shorts for a long ride. <S> I have never owned a pair, and haven't thought that I needed them on longish rides. <S> Try to find a pair of gym/exercise shorts that is: thin loose <S> short <S> (bottom falls above your knee) <S> stretchy <S> Most big box/department stores sell a pair Hanes or Fruit of the Loom shorts that fit this description for dirt cheap. <S> The best part is that you can get 2 pairs, and change shorts when you take a break half way through the ride! <A> I guess there are two choices: elastic, or loose. <S> that would cause chafing. <S> I guess bike shorts are tight and elastic (and synthetic) -- stereotypically lycra or spandex. <S> I wear cotton shorts (which other users on this site are almost sure to downvote), which aren't elastic, and not tight either: they're like dress shorts or cargo shorts, I wear them with a belt. <S> Also loose cotton "boxer" underwear under that (with an elastic waist but no elastic around the legs). <A> Relatively new cyclist here. <S> Cheapskate, too. <S> For short rides (up to 40 miles) I wear denim short pants and boxers underneath. <S> By the end I am usually glad to get off of my bike. <S> This past April I rode the MS150, wearing the padded cycling shorts. <S> It would have been impossible to do this ride without them.
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You don't wear underwear under cycling-specific shorts because they have a cushioned pad in them that's designed to sit against your skin. It's likely to get wet (from sweat), so tight and inelastic (and wet) isn't a good combination ... However, for commuting (5–25km, depending on what route I take), I still just wear the gym shorts, because they're completely fine at that distance and nobody in the office needs to see me in MAMIL * mode.
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My 1000 watt rated hub only pulls 6.7A (321.6 watts @ 48v) suggestions? I am a big boy (~230lbs) living on a mountain. My 1000 watt electric hub powered by 78 18630 Lion batteries in 13 cells barely moves me level let alone up a hill (which was its intended purpose). I tested its current to find it only pulling ~6.7 amps on a wheel stand. Times 48v only gives me just under 322 watts. Did I get ripped off? Is there something I am missing? Under the circumstances I'm considering removing the rim and spokes, attaching a cog and connecting it (centered in the frame) into the existing chain/de-railer system, directly. Suggestions anyone? <Q> Even if you've only got around 300W, that should shift you reasonably well on the level. <S> The limit here is 250W and that can manage 15mph with your weight on the bike, though the acceleration isn't great. <S> But the current draw with no load (on a stand) will be a lot less than the loaded current anyway, so you probably can get the rated power or close to it. <S> I assume it's actually rated to 1kW at 48V <S> The motor controller is important - is that suitable for over 20A? <S> Is your wiring? <A> The motor outputs max power at half <S> it's rpm range: <S> Your only way to test this is on a dyno or out in the field. <S> Blast full power to the controller and mechanically restrict the motor to only go half the speed as it would go unrestricted - you are at max power then. <S> The other thing is the power rating itself. <S> The power quoted is input power and not the mechanical motor output. <S> This is because the motor controller is an integral part of the system and runs as an inverter. <S> the mechanical motor output + the heat the motor produces = input power <S> or you can get a datasheet of the motor and look up the efficiency curve. <A> Cannibalising your wheel to make a chain drive will be significantly difficult. <S> Getting a toothed wheel into the chainline and getting it to turn at a useful speed while maintaining chain tension. <S> Depending on where you put the motor, you'll probably stop the front derailleur from switching between chainrings, because the top run of chain is under tension. <S> Thinking about this, your hub motor will not work fixed to the frame without a complete redesign. <S> That's because the power/control cables assume the axle is fixed and the body of the motor rotates with the wheel. <S> If you want to go this route, you need a motor designed for fixed mounting that drives its output shaft only. <A> First, you need to measure the current at close-to-stall which is when electric motors draw the most current. <S> Ideally, you’d have a dyno or rollers but with bikes wheel traction on the rollers can be a problem. <S> So I’d try to stall the wheel with your brakes. <S> Only do it in short spurts to not overheat the brake or hub or controller. <S> Scenarios (note by fake I mean re-labeled): <S> Fake controller, real 1000 watt hub <S> But you’d want to buy a new controller anyway. <S> Real controller, fake hub : if your controller is rated for 1000 watts but your hub is only built for 350 then you’ll only get 350 Watts. <S> Nothing will burn out. <S> It’s the same as putting a 60 watt bulb on a switch rated for 20 amps, it won’t make the bulb any brighter <S> Fake hub and fake controller: <S> you’ll only get 350 watts but <S> if the controller is dodgy you might burn out the controller before the hub. <S> Scenario #1 is your best case as a new controller would fix it. <S> But if it were the case, the controller would have blown by now (or gone into thermal shutdown / self protect). <S> Does your bike throw a code and die completely when it tries to take you up a hill? <S> If not, then it’s incapable of doing so even with a new controller - it’s the hub. <S> The most likely scenario is #2 or #3 which are both expensive. <S> Note you can measure the winding resistance if you have a very good ohmmeter that can measure in the low ohm range (a crappy harbor freight won’t work). <S> Your stator resistance should be around 2.4 ohms . <S> If your stator are measuring 6 ohms then your motor can only do 380 stall watts. <S> But measuring low ohm resistance really does take a very good meter as a cheap meter will just be measuring itself or it’s own lead resistance.
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On a wheel stand there is not much resistence so the motor doesn't have to use much torque (current) to spin the wheel, so the power draw is that low. In your case you want the body of the motor fixed to the frame, and have the axle turn. To see how much power you can get onto the ground you need to use dyno again : You do have a good chance of burning out the MOSFETs of the controller if it’s a 350 watt controller labeled as a 1000 watt if your wheel can draw 20 amps.
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Is a road bike good for an Ironman race I am a race bike beginner and I am considering to buy a road bike. Is it doable to ride a road bike for an Ironman race or should I consider a Time-Trial bike? <Q> It will be good enough for a couple of years in all situations, not just triathlons. <S> You can upgrade it with some aero bars, better wheels and tyres. <A> It largely depends on your level of ambition for how you want to perform at the event. <S> You will need a road bike regardless, as you will perform the bulk of your training on it <S> (likely 8-10hrs/wk for an ironman) <S> in addition to potentially being your event bike too. <S> However if you are looking at doing a <6hr bike split then a Triathlon bike with a nice set of deep section wheels is going to be a significant advantage. <A> Riders do do triathlons of varying distances on road racing oriented road bikes that are not full-on tri or aero bikes. <S> Often they fit bolt on aero bars. <S> What you should be aware of is that not all drop bar road bikes are the same. <S> There is the obvious level of components, weight and cost, but there are also differences in geometry. <S> Some have a more relaxed, upright riding position and some are more aggressive. <S> If you want to race you should probably look for bike with a more aggressive geometry. <S> Do some research to find out what models of bikes would be suitable. <S> Go do some test rides at local bike shops. <S> If you are starting out the used bike marketplace is also a great resource. <A> Bicycling is generally the longest as well as the most technical part of an Ironman, in the sense that the outcome depends to a large extent on the quality of the equipment you have and not purely on talent. <S> Since it is the longest, if the equipment is not the optimal one, the time gap between you and others would increase. <S> You say that you are a beginner and in that sense, assuming you are not aiming to be the fastest, then a road bike would definitely be not much different from a TTR in terms of effort. <S> It would be a good experience. <S> Having run only one ironman in my life and that too at 35 deg C, I took close to 9 hours (only for the cycling part)struggling on a road bike that was too big for me. <S> If I were to do it again, I would definitely get a proper road bike, build up my fitness and comfort level more and then move on to a TTR.All the best.
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I suggest buying a regular road bike, have it properly fit and ride it.
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Rear Bike Rack for Full Suspension? I have a Giant Warp DS3 and id like to get a rear rack but am struggling to find anything decent & compatible. is there such a rack? 2001 Giant Warp DS3 from Bicycle Blue Book. <Q> The two styles that work are a seat post mount rack or once that clamps to the seat stay. <S> Seatposts often have a low load limit, and can be prone to swinging around, but are generally very popular. <S> Using on on a carbon frame would have to be done with caution - ensure a long seat post insertion. <S> For heavier loads, a frame mounted rack such as the Thule Pack'n Pedal is best. <S> A post rack puts all the extra weight on the rear suspension, so has the advantage its suspended, but you might need to adjust shock settings for an ideal ride. <S> A rear triangle mount is un-suspended weight, and will not affect shock settings as much. <A> This instructables posting explains how. <S> You attach a regular rack to the Axle and to the rear diagonal stay <A> The intended use of full suspension bikes does not really overlap with carrying luggage around on a rear mounted rack. <S> You can't fit a on the rear triangle, and there are no mounting points, and the triangle is really not designed for it. <S> There are seat post mounted racks but as @mattnz says they are load limited as the are cantilevered off the seat post. <S> Depending on what you are trying to carry, an oversize seat bag may work for you.
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You can get racks, what you get will largely depend on the load.
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Can't find any replacement original chainrings (SG A-52-42-30) . What can I use instead? I have an early 2000's Giant OCR 2 roadbike (3x8 speed) with worn out chain rings on the Shimano Sora FC-3303 triple crankset. The original rings are the SG A-type, 5 bolt, 130 mm BCD in 52T-42T-30T sizes. All I can find are used ones, and I'd prefer not to change the crankset. Can I just drop the A-type originals and go with new ones in the same bolt pattern and BCD that are close (ie 53T-39T-30T)? Thanks <Q> Yes, you don't have to use actual Shimano chainrings, you can use 'third party' brands. <S> There are a few manufacturers that produce replacement chainrings in a wide range of BCD measurements and tooth counts, so you be able to get exact matches. <A> Of course you can as long as the bolt pattern matches. <S> It may happen that the new chainrings have slight offset, you would need to adjust your front derailleur then. <S> What will change is the gearing. <S> Going from 52 to 53 for the largest cogring will decrease your cadence by less than 2% (will require more effort to maintain the same speed) but these are negligible values, I'd say. <S> You also may have to slightly rise the front derailleur, depending on how much clearance you have right now between it and the largest cog. <S> You should also check whether the new chainrings will fit your chain, i.e. if they are not too thick (for 1/8 chain only while your is 3/32) <S> but I don't think it will be the case. <S> For your reference, I've changed the complete crank on my old 26" mountain bike. <S> I went from 46 to 54 the largest (if I can recall) and I needed a longer chain and the front derailleur had to be readjusted for height. <A> Thanks for the help so far. <S> The original Sora 3300 triple has always required constant adjusting, and the only chainring replacements are 9 or 10 speed which means they should work, but might not depending on variables (which chain to use, etc). <S> It's a bit spendy, but since the frame and wheels are OK for my riding my current plan is to install a whole new Sora R3000 2x9 groupset (chain, shifters,RD,FD, cassette, crankset) for around $350 and do away with the triple altogether. <S> If it updates key components as a set and gets me another few years of riding this bike it seems worth it. <A> Update: <S> I found a very fair deal from Merlin Cycles in the UK for a Tiagra 4700 groupset (mechs, crankset,bottom bracket, brifters, cassette, chain and brakes) with my preferred choices (crank length, medium rear mech, large cassette). <S> It came in about a week through regular post (Canada) very well packaged and complete with new cable sets. <S> Switching a 2005 Giant OCR from Sora 3300 <S> Triple (3x8) to Tiagra (2x10) was straightforward, just had to Amazon a Hollowtech bracket wrench as I had not used one before. <S> The next bike will be 105 with more carbon, but this feels like a good move to keep this one at a good level, and I don't miss the Sora triple so far. <S> It feels as good as my older Dura Ace, although I know it's heavier.
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If you do decide to change gearing, derailleur position and chain length will need to be changed, but you should probably be replacing the chain at the same time as as rings anyway, and also checking at the cassette for wear and replacing that if necessary.
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Should I leave bolts in frame when I've removed component (mudguards for example) I've just remove my mudguards from my Ti frame and as usual I have put the bolts back into the frame where the thread goes into a tube - for example in the chain-stay bridge and brake bridge.I used anti-seize on the threads and did not do them up tight. Should I be doing this? I do it because it looks a bit neater and I suppose to stop water getting int but I thought that maybe I am just risking ruining my frame if the bolt gets stuck in there. Thanks <Q> I usually plug the hole with appropriate size hardware. <S> I add a dab of anti-seize compound. <S> My reasoning (other than appearance) is that while the frame is aluminum or carbon the threaded insert is typically steel and there fore subject to rust. <A> I leave mudguard, waterbottle mount etc. <S> bolts in the frame, with appropriate grease, anti-seize applied. <S> I do this mostly <S> so I can find them when I need to mount the component again. <A> It’s easy to put a bolt into them or a plastic or rubber plug (if you’re a weight weenie)
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You should plug the with something for two reasons: 1) to prevent water ingress into the frame 2) the brazing or frame threads are usually bare metal so they will rust easily
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Rohloff twist shifter is too slippery when sweating My Rohloff Speedhub is pretty slick, but unfortunately so is the twist shifter when I'm sweaty. In southern Florida, riding my trike, that's pretty much all the time. Switching gears already has higher resistance than your standard derailleur; when under a bit of load it takes even more effort, and there are times when I literally cannot shift gears because my grip slips. I don't have many options to change out the shifter (it's custom to Rohloff) and it's irregularly shaped so I don't think I could use bike tape or anything on it. I'm hoping someone can give me a solution that will give me a good grip even when sweaty or wet that isn't going to look ridiculous or be unwieldy. <Q> Cycling gloves are designed for comfort and to improve grip by absorbing sweat and providing a contact material that provides grip even when damp or wet. <S> Typically, hands do not sweat <S> much so most cycling gloves will help in this regards. <A> A thumb /trigger shifter has been developed for the Rohloff speed hub. <S> It has been manufactured by Cinq5 and is called Shift:R. <S> It involves two levers one for up-shifting and one for down-shifting. <S> I assume it will take some ride time to get used to the new and some what unusual methodology. <S> They are not inexpensive. <S> Reviews have pros and cons so you would want to read a few and decide for yourself, as product recommendations are off topic here. <A> Gloves ought to do the trick, but if want a solution where you don't wear gloves, you could use sugru, the "moldable glue" to make the shifter more ergonomic: https://sugru.com/about <A> How worn is your shifter? <S> When new they should be grippy and tactile, but with age, sweat, ozone and UV the rubbery grip will break down just like the hoods on a brifter. <S> I've successfully used electrical heatshrink to cover cheap MTB grips where the rubber has gone tacky or otherwise failing. <S> then heat it with a hairdryer to tighten onto the shifter neatly. <S> It should simply fall off once cut, if you don't like it. <S> Minor benefit, increasing the effective diameter of the shifter will make shifting feel easier because of increased leverage. <A> I have the same issue and am going to try a remedy I came across online. <S> Wrap a couple of those big, fast broccoli rubber bands around the shifter. <S> Tape of any kind is a bad idea -- the adhesive sticks won't come off and trust me, do NOT use goo-gone to try to remove it. <S> It'll melt the grip. <S> I got mine reversed with quick action and it dried/hardened again, but I thought I'd ruined it.
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In the same vein, you could use a piece of bartape or adhesive hockey tape, but those have a sticky back and will be harder to remove cleanly. Perhaps you can fit a short piece over your shifter
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Is it normal that the tyre fits effortless the rim? I've been constantly having problems with my wheel going flat. I couldn't find anything on the rim but I changed the rim tape and I bought a new tyre. The old tyre was a bit worn. It was also fitting the rim too easy, something I was attributing to the fact that it was old and also that I've been changing the tube a lot.Nevertheless, now I noticed that the new tyre also goes a bit too easy, as in, I didn't even have to use any tool to put it. I am sure they are the right size and I don't see any evident sign in the rim to make me think it is not usable anymore, although it is a bit hit here and there but nothing particular as to make anyone think it shouldn't work fine. Is this normal? Should I check something else? EDIT: The tyre size is 37-622. It is a city (Grandma/Grandpa-like bike). <Q> Not all tires are hard to put on (depends on type) and rims also have a variation in size (both between different types of rims and sample to sample variation within one model). <S> In fact, I'd say many tires for urban and mountain bikes can be mounted without tools if you know how to. <S> There are obviously counterexamples that are notorious for being tight. <S> Unless you can get the tire off easily and without tools too, you should be fine. <A> In principle, it should be possible to mount/unmount any tire without tools: The bead has a diameter that is smaller than the outer diameter of the rim, but also larger than the diameter of the bottom of the rim. <S> Thus, you can partially get the bead over the top of the rim in one place by pushing it down to the bottom everywhere else. <S> With real tires, the method above is tricky, though. <S> Tires have some amount of stiffness that counteracts your attempts to push the bead low. <S> So, the stiffer the tire, the harder to put it on / take it off. <S> Now, wide tires usually have a relatively soft and long flank (the part on the side which flexes as you ride), so they are easy to (un-)mount. <S> For a "Grandma/Grandpa-like" tire, I would expect to be able to (un-)mount it without tools. <A> If you really mean effortless , i.e. the tire slips onto (or off) <S> the rim with almost no force, there may be something wrong. <S> If it is just easy to get the tire on the rim, that's OK.
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There is some variation in time bead sizes and rim wall heights that make some tires easy to install and some difficult.
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2- or 3-speed fixie I am young...and dumb... so I want to ride fixed gear as all the other cool guys do.But without the trouble of having too high of a gear when starting away from a traffic light. So is it possible to have a rear derailleur with a two- or three-speed cassette and one front gear, while still having a fixed-gear set up? I thought of 48 in the front and something like 17-22-37 on the rear cassette? Thanks in advance <Q> There is a Sturmey-Archer solution for you: <S> S3X Silver <S> Just to copy the information available on their page: <S> Silver 3 Speed Fixed Gear Rear Hub FEATURES <S> 3-Speed fixed gear with gear ratio of 160% Gear steps of 20% and 33% Threaded driver compatible for non-fixed 3-speed conversion with standard single speed freewheel <S> 6061 Aluminium hub shell Available with 32 or 36 <S> spoke holes <S> Compatible with 1/8'' 13 to 22 teeth sprocket <S> Compatible with 3/32'' 12 to 22 teeth sprocket <S> High-polish anodised finish <S> Weight - 980g <S> Gear Ratio <S> Overall <S> Range - 160% Gear 1 - 62.5% <S> (Gear 2 - 37.5%) <S> Gear 2 - 75% <S> (Gear 3 - 25%) <S> Gear 3 - 100% (Direct Drive) <S> I have no idea whether the price won't be a deal-breaker for you. <S> Nevertheless - good luck. <S> EDIT: <S> A few words of explanation for those who say it is not possible to have such kind of gearing or a clutch is necessary. <S> Sturmey-Archer hubs are the internal planetary type of gears that (as some already mentioned) do switch decently under a load (however my experience with SA freewheel hubs are that it's much better not to put the load on the hub while shifting). <S> And yes, you'd have to abruptly change your cadence when shifting but your muscles, whatever strong they are, have some inertia and flexibility and can accommodate the change. <A> No, this is not possible. <S> Derailleurs require freewheels. <A> You may try this: put a three-speed freewheel on the rear hub. <S> If you want to use another gear you loosen the axle nuts, move the chain on another cog of the three available. <S> Then you re-align the wheel, retension the chain and re-tighten the nuts. <S> The chain line might not be too straight <S> but in a way you have re-invented Campagnolo's very early Cambio Corsa, without both the quick release and the shifting arms. <S> It will work with a freewheel pack only, of course. <S> And you may also need some kind of device mounted over the chainring on the seat-tube that keeps the chain from falling off. <S> Those fork-like thingies existed in the old days when there were no FD to do that job. <S> BTW, there are no fixed multi-speed 'cassettes'. <S> Let us know if you've tried it out. <S> Edit: The 17-22-37 rear might not be workable. <S> The wheel would have to move back and forth way too much to accommodate for the chain-slack. <S> I'd rather have a 17-19-21 or similar. <A> A Schlumpf drive puts a two-speed gear set between the chain ring and the bottom bracket. <S> I don't know if you can use it with 1/8" chainrings, or if you'll be restricted to 3/32". <S> Like some other ideas here it's not going to be cheap. <S> The Wikipedia article I've linked above is a nicer summary than anything on the manufacturer's own website .
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Without a freewheel any reverse force on the cranks would tighten the chain on the bottom crank-to-hub run, which would collapse the derailleur and create a mess of loose chain on the top hub-to-crank run, then the chain would come off of the chainring, which would jam the chain and rear wheel and cause a crash.
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Are there any mini pumps that can be mounted on a wide rectangular frame? On my previous MTB (a hard tail from 2002), I had mounted a mini pump (not sure which brand) under/next to the bottle cage. The pump came with a frame mount and a velcro strip to secure it in place in the frame. When I tried to mount this pump on my new bike (2018 Trek Fuel EX 8), I found that the frame mount of the pump does not fit the frame of the Trek - it's made for a round down tube, while the Trek's down tube (where its only bottle cage can be mounted) is more like a wide rectangle. The pump's frame mount doesn't fit that since the rounded shape does not fit on the bike's frame shape. Having looked at other mini pumps that come with a frame mount, I've noticed (from photos) that most of the frame mounts seem to be similar to what I have - expecting a rounded down tube. Are there any mini pumps that can be mounted on a frame like the Trek's? I've checked my son's Focus and my wife's Liv bike, and the pump does not fit on their frames either. If not, is there any other clever way to mount the mini pump on the bike? I don't think I can use the seat post, since it is a drop post... <Q> I have one that has long slots for the cage bolts that allow the holder to be mounted further away from the centerline of the frame and accommodate wide tubes. <S> You can also try mounting your pump holder on the seat tube or top tube. <A> Here's a "mini floor pump" which can be strapped on pretty-much anywhere on the bike that is out of your way. <S> (Please disregard the battery under the velcro and temporary wiring wrap.) <S> That holder is designed to sit on top of two bottle mounts, rather than off to the side. <S> So its a thin flattish mount on the back rather than being designed to sit off to the side. <S> Better photos on the reseller's site. <S> There are no rivnuts on that bike <S> so I used the two provided cable ties. <S> They seem fine so far. <A> If you're okay to buy a new pump, what about a frame pump? <S> As pictured, they wedge into a corner of your frame and run parallel to the top or seat post. <S> Downside, they're not very popular for aesthetic reasons, and your full-suspension bike has fewer places it could go. <S> Perhaps under the top tube? <A> Would fixing the pump mount with a couple of hose clamps be a solution for you? <S> And by hose clamps I mean those devices: Remember to use some electrical insulation tape to protect the paint on your frame and measure the perimeter of your frame to pick the correct size of the hose clamp. <S> If the clamps shown above won't please your aesthetics, there are other models, like those:
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There are mini pump holders that attach directly to bottle cage mount points under the cage, and hold the pump to one side of the bottle.
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Insect stings while bike riding This year, whilst bike riding, I was stung two times by insects, one time a bee and once by a wasp (most likely; I didn't see it but from the feeling, size and heat of the stung area I can't think of anything else). After some research on different websites ( https://www.roadbikerider.com/bee-stings-and-how-to-deal-with-them-d1/ / https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1080561-insect-stings-while-riding.html ) this has happened to others, though I never heard about it before. I only heard about insects getting into helmets, but my stings were on the lower arm through a longsleeve and the other one on the shinbone. Now I am asking myself, why/how is this happening? Do insects feel threatened by bike riders and attack them? Are they smashed into riders when there is heavy wind? When going too fast on a bike and "overtake" an insect, do you ride into their sting? I was riding on a road bike with an average 30 km/h both times with one time heavy headwind. <Q> It happened twice to me to be stung: once a wasp entered from the neck under my loose shirt, and being trapped between the fabric and my chest didn't find anything better than stinging me. <S> another time I was cycling along the coast and felt a sudden burn between my thumb and my pointing finger. <S> Something stingy was there and had the idea of sticking its harpoon into my flesh. <S> And if we don't consider stinging but insect accident in general... <S> another time, while I was speeding downhill, a bumblebee loaded with pollen splashed onto my glasses. <S> Not painful for me, but my face was half covered with a yellowish goo. <S> while panting for a climb, some mosquito decided that my mouth was a nice place to rest (forever) <S> Now, I ride for more than 30 years, so I would dare to say, based on my sole experience, that mishap with insect are rare but can happen, and if they feel threatened they fight back. <S> Wear tight shirt to avoid them being trapped between the clothing and your skin, keep your mouth closed as much as possible, and wear glasses to protect your eyes. <S> That should do for most of the cases. <A> I agree with Nate W on this one. <S> I usually have a short sleeve biking jersey on and have never had a problem. <S> I would say, worst case, if it is really a problem <S> and you think the bugs are out for ya, you could throw on another layer of protection. <S> Good luck, I hope you find a solution! <A> Well, this happened to me once when I hit a bee hive with my head, and another time when my group took a rest, and the fire ants decided to join us. <S> Flying into the sting of an insect is unlikely because for most of them, their stinger retracts, and they only push it out when they want to sting. <S> Ive had an assortment of bugs hit me while Im riding, and if there is heavy wind, theres nothing they can do. <S> Insects usually dont want to attack unless they feel threatened (just like most other animals) so just steering clear and keep moving would work the best. <S> Having one fly into a jersey or helmet suck a lot, so just take it off, dont try to shake it out. <A> I had this only once, but the way it happened was quite suggestive: A wasp seemed to have landed on my forearm while I was waiting at the traffic lights without me taking notice. <S> When I accelerated, the wasp was trapped on my skin by the slowly increasing head wind until it became so uncomfortable that it decided it needed to do something about the situation, so it stung. <S> The point is: The headwind is enough to a) trap any insect on your skin, and b) to make insects panic. <S> How they end up on your skin does not matter, it suffices that they are there, and if the insect is able of stinging, it will. <S> Unfortunately, I have no clue about how to do this (short of not riding at temperatures where bees/wasps can fly, that is). <S> However, if you are riding in an area with many bees/wasps, it might be a good idea to cover your mouth to avoid getting one into your throat. <S> Because a bee on your arm is a nuisance, a bee in your throat can be deadly. <A> I got stung yesterday by either a bee or a wasp while riding home. <S> It flew into my face at high speed, hit my lip very hard and stung me at the same time. <S> I'd assume that it was intentional though I can't see why it needed to attack. <S> It was still painful and swollen. <S> This is the second year I got hit and stung when riding. <S> I am not sure if the season or time of the day is a factor though I do notice a lot more bugs flying at the time, around 6 pm. <S> I guess it is just one of those hazard you have to live with. <A> Last time while riding, I swallowed a bug. <S> I had to stop and start coughing until the good guy went out. <S> Crazy but it happens. <S> Then yesterday, I got a stung by a wasp in the eye. <S> It was the worst ever. <S> I had to return home to put some ice on it. <S> For my bad luck, I was wearing prescription glasses. <S> I don't know if wearing wayfarer prescription sunglasses are good cycling and preventing bugs collide. <S> I have one and sometimes while riding I use them very often.
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Thus, I guess the only way to avoid being stung by insects is to avoid them getting onto your skin. I all my rides, either through forests or in the open air trails, I have never had a problem with being stung/bitten.
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Is it a problem to have tires of different width? I received a new tire for my bike. I believe this is a "Hybrid bike" in English and looks more or less like that image courtesy of Wikimedia I use it to commute, 50% on bike paths and 50% on easy forest tracks. I have a normal pace (say, 15 to 20 km/h) without any special acrobatic maneuvers. The problem is that this tire, mounted on the front, is thinner than the one on the back (significantly, I would say it is at about 2/3 of the width, leaning towards 1/2). The size of the tires are: front: 28x1.4 (ETRTO 37-622) back: 622 (28x1.60-700x40C) Sorry for the difference, one is from a photo of my tire, the other one is from the command details. I can have a look at the tires tomorrow if the measurements above are not sufficient. Is this an issue? Specifically: can this be dangerous? As I mentioned, I drive carefully but some unexpected moves (hard break, sudden change of direction) are always possible and these are these I fear most. I mostly know the consequences of having a narrow tire vs. a wide one - I am happy with both widths and their features. The question is about having two that are different. I already carefully did ~50 km and did not see anything special in the way the bike behaves, but the problem may be in some specific situations (wildly guessing) <Q> 37mm / 1.4" vs 40mm / 1.6" is not a very big difference. <S> There should be no problem for casual riding. <S> I'd keep the larger tire on the back as the rear wheel supports more rider weight. <A> I started doing this by chance: I got different width tyres on special, and had to use the narrower than usual one <S> So I run 32mm front, 37mm rear at present. <S> As the rear load is 60-70% of gross weight, it makes perfect sense. <S> It is what motorbikes do. <S> There is one drawback <S> : you can't swap front and rear tyres to even out the wear <S> ** <S> Width does not directly affect friction (grip). <S> You can choose soft, short-life, high grip, or you can choose long-life low-grip compounds.(Well you might be able to - you take what you can get here most of the time) <S> The second most important factor is how well the tyre surface conforms to the road surface during heavy braking and cornering. <S> It is quite likely that some thinner, ligher, narrower tyres actually do this better, but I have never seen any information about this. <S> Given that on-road tyres are perfectly usable in widths from 22mm to 40mm, and all brake just fine, it is obviously not that important. <S> ** or move the front tyre to the rear, when the rear is worn out, putting the new one on the front. <A> Having two different sizes of tires for common use, is not an issue. <S> Nevertheless there are some concerns that needs to be addressed. <S> Having a thinner tire in the front is frowned upon. <S> You need your best grip in the front wheel, the one that gives you direction and takes weight load on braking due to momentum transfer. <S> Also it gives you less of an attack angle between your frame and fork. <S> The only scenario I'd use a bigger tire, is when I need more "air" in it, to haul stuff, or when the back is loaded. <S> Like in a postman's, delivery, etc; bike. <S> In your case, I'd just swap them. <S> Cheers. <A> There's no reason to expect any handling issues or any other problems. <S> If you're worried about it, you can always ask the shop. <A> There is no problem with having different size tires on the front and back. <S> In fact Continental have a product call Attack that has a 22 on the front and a 24 at the back, the idea being that the 22 on the front gave better aero performance <S> (whatev's). <S> When 25's first became popular with 'roadies' it was quite common to rock 23 on the front and 25 on the back. <S> The inner tube will be the same for both. <A> If you need to carry two different spares, eg inner tubes or tyre <S> , then that is obviously an issue. <S> Beyond that, I think you should try it and see how it feels.
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Again, going at reasonable speed this is not a problem. The wider tyre on the back will be for comfort: more of your weight is on the rear and a wider tyre at lower pressure is better at absorbing the bumps. What's recommended is to sport to tires of the same width, or the front tire slightly wider than the back. The friction coefficient of the compound is what directly affects grip.
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Creaking which is temporarily resolved by tightening rear quick release My commuter road bike (Pinnacle Arkose 3 - actually a disc-braked cross bike, fitted with mudguards) has an annoying and loud creak, associated with each turn of the pedals - there is a creak each time a pedal passes the 2-3 o'clock position, on either side. It sounds like a bottom bracket creak, but I have replaced the bottom bracket and adequately tightened it, yet the creak continues. If I unclip one foot and pedal one-legged the creak stops - this works for either foot. If I pedal very lightly at a very high cadence (e.g. 120 RPM), the creak stops. If I pedal hard or sprint out of the saddle, the creak is louder. If I stop and tighten the rear wheel quick release (traditional QR, rather than through-axle), the creak stops, but inevitably returns, often within a few miles. So far I have tried/checked: swapping in the QR skewer from my turbo trainer and this makes nodifference - the creak only goes away temporarily checking the chain for wear - currently showing as 0.5% worn checking the rear wheel is properly seated in the dropouts tightening the bolts on the rear derailleur hanger, whichthe QR skewer tightens to What else can I try to resolve this annoying creak? It's driving me crazy! I'm also concerned it could be a sign something is under fatigue or close to breaking. <Q> In my experience, when tightening the quick release only temporarily solves the problem, try putting a little grease between the rear derailleur hanger and the dropout. <S> Often it is the seat post but ruled that out since you said it gets louder when sprinting out of the saddle. <S> Good luck! <A> I doubt this is the answer to your specific creak <S> but I think it's worth posting anyway, as it may be helpful to others in the future. <S> I've found that a bit of grit on the surface of the dropout can cause this kind of creaking. <S> I think it's worth cleaning your drop-outs and the contact points on the axle and QR, but I'm not sure why tightening the QR would temporarily solve the problem in your case if it was grit. <A> I had this exact symptom. <S> After wasting several days and dollars, I guessed it was coming from the dropouts, I wiped them clean and applied a thin rub of grease to all mating faces (hub to dropout, dropout to QR, and the QR cam). <S> Pure blissful silence even with all out sprinting. <A> Annoying creaks occur in hard to put your finger on places. <S> My father in law calls this "drivers ear". <S> Check that the BB is tight in the shell, probably worth removing, cleaning and greasing the threads: <S> Next, check and lube your freehub body, use disk brake mineral oil for the lubing. <S> Failing all that put your iPod on maximum volume and ignore it until the creaking part fails completely.
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A syringe with a fine needle can get the oil behind the seals: Last place to check is the headset, again remove, clean and regrease: As the frame flexes the grit gets ground between the drop-out and axle or QR and the frame tubes can amplify the sound a surprising amount.
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Repairing stripped threads on a nut type bottom bracket I recently bought a used 2011 diamondback outlook mountain bike for $30 on craigslist. The bike however needed some significant work. The bearings in both wheels need to be replaced, the shimano 7 speed freewheel was rusted to crap and best of all, the rear brakes were missing. I guess that's why it was $30. The previous owner also decided it would be a great idea to coat everything in some very heavy automotive grease. the only good thing about that was the chain was really dirty but just needed a good cleaning. Somehow that was intact... Anyway here's what we are getting to. I was removing the right crankarm to replace it with different ones that weren't so beat up and the threads are now stripped. Not the threads inside the crankarm, the threads attached to the bottom bracket that allow the retaining nut to hold the crankarm into place. Picture: As you can see the threads have been almost ground down. The threads at the bottom closest to the square taper are what they are supposed to look like, and above that is what the threads look like now. The nut also was stripped when I was removing it, so I ordered a replacement 14mm nut for this type of bottom bracket online since I can't find a nut like that in the fasteners section of my local hardware stores. But I can't easily do the same with the bottom bracket, so I need to fix it. My first thought is to wrap some thread tape around the damaged threads. They still seem to be "sort of" there, just sanded down. My second thought is to use a ton of threadlocker red on both the nut and the bolt, then tighten it in. This should hopefully create a good enough seal and the new nut won't move. Third option is to buy a thread tap and try to carve new threads into the bolt. The only problem is I would need some sort of hollow thread tap that would fit over the bolt, and I don't think that even exists. I also don't know the appropriate thread pitch tap to buy in the first place. My fourth choice is replacing the bottom bracket altogether. That will require me to buy more tools to remove the bottom bracket like a shimano bottom bracket removal tool, and costs the most. So I really want to avoid this if possible. Finally, is it possible to remove the threaded portion of the bottom bracket entirely by unscrewing it and just install a new threaded rod? Can that even be done? Any ideas? <Q> The thread repair tool that is used in this sort of situation is called a die. <S> The common size for crank nuts is M8x1.25. <S> However, too much material appears to be lost here for that approach to be reasonable. <S> Also, hardened steel threaded parts like this don't take as well to thread reformation as softer steel parts. <S> Taps and dies have some capacity to shove material on damaged threads back into place, but here it's likely to break off instead. <S> You don't indicate whether you have a cartridge or cup and cone BB, but nutted BB spindles are almost always (maybe literally always?) <S> found on cup and cone BBs. <S> If so there's nothing stopping you from just replacing the spindle; basic cup and cone BBs generally let you do that freely since they tend to all use JIS spindles. <S> You need the same length and, if applicable, offset. <S> Pull the existing one and hopefully you'll find a code on it like the one in the picture. <S> Match the new one with that. <S> Shops don't tend to just have them anymore, since the common approach is now to just replace everything with cartridge, but they are still able to be ordered, and are cheap. <A> You can carefully clean the threads up with a very fine half-round or triangle file until the nut goes on OK (remove the minimum of metal). <S> There are also specialised Thread files , they are not uncommon. <S> Reassemble with lots of grease on the square tapers, so they seat properly. <S> It might not work - there might not be enough thread <S> but you lose nothing trying. <S> Given the other bearings are shot, these probably need replacing or at least regreasing if you can get them apart (ie not cartridge type). <S> If you are going to fix your bikes, you might have to invest in tools <S> You can get them all cheaply off Aliexpress - if you order them <S> well before your bike breaks. <S> These are the special tools you pretty much have to have to work on a bike. <S> Cluster removal tool <S> ** <S> Chain whip <S> Bottom bracket tool <S> ** cone spanners**tools that match your type of part <S> Multi-tool with chain breaker. <A> Okay, so I managed to fix the problem. <S> However the way I fixed it I will likely need to purchase a new axle and bearings when it comes time to overhaul the crankarms again. <S> I bought a cheap tap and die set from harbor freight and used an M10x1.25 die to carve new threads into the bottom bracket axle. <S> After this I took the original nut, and used a tap to carve M10x1.25 threads into the nut. <S> It was VERY hard to turn at first likely due to the t handle in the kit being cheap and the threads being just a bit larger in the nut. <S> I did manage to give the new nut 1.25 pitch threads however. <S> I took a bottle of threadlocker red and covered the axle threads in it, then installed the bolt. <S> The bolt was very loose at first, but once I tightened it down, it didn't move at all. <S> If I ever need to remove the crankset again, I will purchase new parts and completely overhaul the bottom bracket. <S> This was really a one-way repair, and trying to remove and reinstall the crankset again will likely destroy the threads far too much to be reused. <S> I ordered a ton of bike specific parts from aliexpress, so I at least have some crappy basic tools now like a chain whip, pinch spanner, and a sealed cartridge bottom bracket removal tool. <S> I already have tools like a metric socket wrench set, adjustable wrenches, pliers, and allen keys because my grandfather used to work on cars, and our family inherited most of his tools that I still use today. <S> Problem fixed, but not really solved.
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Crank nuts/bolts are one of the higher torque items on a bike, meaning you don't really have much leeway for severely damaged threads. It turns out the threads were some very unusual M10 by somewhere between 1.75-2.00 thread pitch, and an M8 screw didn't seem to fit on at all.
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Damping effects of carbon forks Around where I live the common wisdom is that on a road, gravel or similar bike, a carbon fork will cushion some of the vibration more than a metal fork. On some web discussion forums I see that opinion reiterated. I don't have any personal experience of it yet. If indeed it is the case, given that composites can be incredibly rigid, how is this damping implemented? Is this a property of the composite that it can be formed in such a way that rigidity is in certain directions only? Finally, does anyone have any pointers to evidence of this fork property? Is this urban legend or is there truth to it? <Q> Having only my experience as source, it isn't a myth. <S> Carbon forks tend to "copy" the road better, translating into a more soft riding experience for your arms. <S> It makes the behaviour of the bike a little more "nervous" though. <A> From personal experience I tend to agree. <S> However, I think it’s <S> not really because the carbon acts as a suspension/cushion but be because a carbon fork is usually lighter. <S> Fork and front wheel are essentially an “unsprung mass” (assuming that your slightly relaxed arms act as suspension). <S> The heavier they are (compared to the rider) <S> the more they’ll tend to bounce over rough ground. <S> I’d love to see somebody mount an accelerometer to their handlebars and measure acceleration (vibrations) for forks and front wheels with different weights and materials. <A> I've ridden both steel forks and carbon forks. <S> Carbon fiber will damp vibrations much, much more than aluminum forks, which used to exist but are AFAIK very rare - they only existed as a lighter alternative to steel forks. <S> When carbon came on the scene, they went away. <S> I've searched for evidence, but I can't quite seem to find much that specifically addresses vibration damping in steel vs carbon forks. <S> There is some discussion of steel vs carbon rigid forks on the Singletrack forum here , and more on Bikeforums , but neither thread appears to be conclusive. <S> Ibis bikes have a good primer on materials properties for carbon , steel , titanium , and aluminum , and the carbon page gets at what @Chris H said <S> - carbon can be tuned in a lot of ways. <S> It can be made rigid in one direction but more compliant in another. <S> That said, there are a wide range of steel tubes that vary in diameter and wall thickness that can also tune the ride. <S> I will say that I don't think that this conventional wisdom is necessarily true. <S> Bikes are complex objects, and there are a lot of aspects apart from fork material that damp vibrations - e.g. your tire size and pressure, your stem, your bar tape, your gloves, the rest of the frame. <S> I have a road and a CX bike with steel forks, and I love them, but I also raced a season on a carbon Giant TCR in about 2005, and it was a good ride. <S> The frame and fork did damp vibrations considerably. <S> You are probably better off test riding whatever bike it is <S> you're interested in.
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Carbon fiber is much stronger than it maybe used to be, and it is unquestionably lighter than a steel fork, so I wouldn't hesitate to get a carbon fork if you like the overall bike.
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How to properly align the rear wheel to the bike (granny bike, single speed) I have an old bike in which the rear axle is like you can see in the pictures below. It has pedal-brake. I've been struggling with the wheel alignment with respect to the bike. Each time I put it in, I align it as much as I can making sure the chain is straight (the cogs are aligned) and then I press the axle nuts as much as I can trying to keep that alignment. After a bit of cycling the wheel moves a bit in such a way that the front and rear cogs are not properly aligned, making the chain to go off the cog very easily. What am I doing wrong? How can I solve this? EDIT: could this chain tensioners fit my bike? <Q> I suspect you either are missing the lock washer (toothed lock washer, picture follows) on the drive side or the one that is there is worn out. <S> Place one outside of the dropout, between the dropout and the hanger for the rack/stand. <S> And the promised picture of the washer I meant: <A> The underlying problem here is that the wheel's axle is moving in the dropouts. <S> I think your wheel nuts are not biting down enough to properly resist the tiny flexes of the bike while riding. <S> When the nut has undone a little, its looser in the dropout and <S> the pressure of your foot is pulling the right-side of the hub forward. <S> Assuming you're using appropriate levels of torque on the wheel nuts, they should not move at all. <S> I've had this on a cheap QR, where the ridging on the axle nut was worn smooth. <S> I had spare time and no money <S> so I spent time filing the grooves deeper and sharper using a rats tail file. <S> The second part of this is if your rear dropouts are not parallel. <S> Even a single degree is enough to stop the nut and axle from pressing flat against the dropout. <S> This allows flex with each pedal stroke. <S> and the nut backs off, again allowing the hub to move under pressure. <S> I had this exact problem on my cold-set MTB frame when changing from 5 speed to 9 speed hub. <S> See https://www.sheldonbrown.com/forkend-alignment.html for more info. <A> Is the chain too long? <S> For a new chain, you want to be around 1/3 away from the front-most position. <S> Single-speed bikes have the problem that the axle is pulled forward by the force of the chain. <S> Most single speed bikes use a chain tensioner if they don't provide another mechanism that pushes the hub back. <S> You can try to retro-fit a chain tensioner. <S> Your hub has an arm that keeps it from rotating but which can also help to protect it against moving forward. <S> Make sure it properly fixed to the frame. <A> Use a proper box wrench, not an adjustable wrench. <S> A short length of metal tube slipped over the wrench will give you more leverage. <S> Alternatively, take the bike to a local bike store and have them torque the bolts. <S> Be prepared for them to point out all the things wrong with the bike that they want to fix.
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The simple answer is that the axle bolts need to be torqued up tighter, so they grip the frame better. It looks like you have to move the rear wheel to the back-most position.
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Bike wheel help for newbie I was wondering if someone could help me? I have recently bought a Specialized Allez Sport road bike (61cm frame) and due to my weight I’m looking to upgrade the wheel set straight away due to my weight 140kg. Having researched I have found that either Velocity Deep V or H Plus Son SL42 wheel sets would be suitable for my weight, but how do I know if they are suitable for my bike? Will they fit? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! <Q> There are a few questions and answers on this site about wheel compatibility, but here is what you need to know in your situation. <S> Obviously you need ISO 622 / 700c rim brake wheels. <S> Dropout spacing on the Allez Sport <S> is standard road bike 130mm rear, 100mm front. <S> A beefier wheelset may have wider rims than those on the Allez. <S> Note that rim width refers to the inner width of the rim where the tire bead engages. <S> Searching on this site or the Internet will yield a chart of rim width to tire width compatibility. <S> As a heavier rider you may want to run slightly wider tires than the original 25mm. <S> The Allez will probably accommodate 28mm tires. <S> You can check by looking at the clearance between the current tires and frame. <S> Lastly, the freehub body that the rear sprocket cassette fits on only needs to be compatible with 9 or 10 speed cassettes. <S> (11 speed cassettes require a wider freehub. <S> 9 and 10 speed cassettes can be fitted with spacers, but 11 speed wheels will likely be more expensive.) <S> You actually have a massive choice of wheels available to you. <S> Search this site for advice for wheels for heavier riders. <S> Wheels aimed at touring bikes with high spoke counts (32 or more) seem to be what heavier riders go for. <A> I don't have enough reputation to comment on @Argenti Apparatus' answer, so I am posting. <S> Lastly, the freehub body that the rear sprocket cassette fits on only needs to be compatible with 9 or 10 speed cassettes. <S> (11 speed cassettes require a wider freehub.) <S> Actually, 11-speed Shimano wheels can take 10-speed cassettes. <S> You just need a spacer behind the cassette. <S> I see that the current version of the Specialized Sport has a 9-speed Sora drivetrain. <S> That might require some double checking as to compatibility. <S> I would guess that again, spacer behind the last cog, but I don't have experience or knowledge of that particular component set. <A> In the spec of the bike on the Specialized website it says: <S> 130mm spacing which is the width of the rear wheel hangers. <S> Front wheels normally are all the same with 100mm spacing. <S> So just look for those sizes and you should be fine.
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Rim bead seat width should be compatible with the tires you have, or intend to run.
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RB not ridden in 4 years unable to shift gear After a bit of advice. I recently dusted down my Carrera after a 4 year stint in the shed. Knowing that it had a few issues I dropped it in to my local Halfords store. It required a few things mending with the most relevant to this issue being the rear derailleur. I get home and decide to go for a quick ride and find that I’m unable to shift gear at all. There isn’t really any tension in the shifters and the chain is currently on the smallest cog. The obvious thing to do would be to drop it back in but if it’s something I’m able to sort then I’d rather get it done myself! Images below although I’m not sure if it helps in any way. Thanks in advance <Q> If people can figure out what the problem is, you can probably fix this yourself without needing specialist tools. <S> Honestly, though, take it back to Halfords and get them to actually do the work you've presumably already paid them to do, because this is pretty ridiculous. <A> Not clear from your question if the problem is in both front and rear shifters/derailleurs or <S> just one but basic troubleshooting is the same. <S> First check that the cable and housing from shifters to derailleurs are properly routed and the housing is inserted into the appropriate frame bosses. <S> Find a run of exposed cable (outside of housing, usually on the down tube) and make sure they have some tension - <S> i.e., not obviously disconnected from either the derailleurs or shifters, and there is not slack cable flopping around. <S> If that does not turn up anything, you need to look at the shifters. <S> Either both shifters are broken (unlikely) or they are not holding on to the cable. <S> Pull back the rubber hoods on the shifters and look at where the cables are inserted (opposite where the cables emerge on the side of the levers). <S> Sometimes the cable ends get hung up and are not properly seated inside the lever mechanism. <A> After four years and what looks like little use even four years ago, do you remember how to use the shifters? <S> To shift from a smaller cog to a bigger cog you push the brake lever, sideways, i.e inwards toward the center line of the bike. <S> The right brake shifts the rear derailleur. <S> The left brake shifts the front derailleur. <S> As well as the derailleur moving you should see the red indicator move in the brake lever/shifter plastic window. <S> Is that what you are saying isn't working? <S> In a word of support for Halfords. <S> I bought a bike from them four weeks ago and it was very good value. <S> It was set up badly but after a little fiddling I'm very happy.
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If you grab the exposed cable and pull outwards you should be able to get the derailleurs to move a little. In general, I'd recommend taking bikes to a specialist bike shop rather than somewhere like Halfords: the level of clue is generally much higher and they'll actually make sure the bike is working before they hand it back to you.
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Are 23mm tires on a 25mm rim (21 mm internal width) safe? Odd situation here, I'm putting together a 2nd road bike (I commute daily and need a backup for when my main ride needs adjustments, part replacements, etc). To stay on the economical side, I purchased Zipp 30 Course aluminum rim-brake clinchers: https://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-course-rim-brake-clincher/ rather than going with carbon. These rims have an external width of 25mm and a very wide internal width of 21mm. At the time I ordered these I was not aware of the internal width being the driving factor for how wide a tire ends up being after mounting/inflation. I mounted 25mm Continental GP 4000 S II on these rims and after inflating the tires are 27.5mm - 28mm wide. The clearance with the frame I'm using (which is stated to take up to 25mm wide tires) is extremely tight at the rear, where the tire passes both the seat stays and the chain stays. I haven't finished assembling the bike yet, but the clearance is so tight I'm pretty certain there will be a clearance problem under load. If anybody is curious the frame I'm using for this build is a Dengfu R02 http://www.dengfubikes.com/ROAD_FRAME/131.html Can I use 23mm wide Continental GP 4000 S II on these rims? If I try, will they mount? And more importantly, if I can get "23mm wide" tires (which would probably end up being about 25mm on these rims) to mount, is this a safe configuration? It would be a shame if I could never use rims I just paid $950 for, however I consider safety to be far, far more important. <Q> Actually, tires narrower than rims have an aerodynamic advantage, there's a "105%" rule of thumb that states your rim should have width equal to 105% of measured tire width. <S> That's why aero rims are getting wider year by year, all in order to accommodate a wider tire, which also brings comfort and lower rolling resistance. <S> Here's an explanatory article ( archive ) by Joshua Poertner, who used to be a technical director at Zipp ( source ). <S> On a side note, 25mm outer / 21mm inner rims aren't even that wide by today's standards, there are 28mm (I own a set) and even 30mm road rims available. <S> Update: <S> recently, I had the same question about 26mm tire on 25 ID rim and some people pointed out this might cause riding on sidewalls during sharp turns. <S> Something to keep in mind for sure. <A> Sheldon Brown 's website has a nice table with a general rule applied to safely using different tire widths VS rim width. <S> It's towards the bottom of the page in a section called Width Considerations . <S> Make sure your rim measurement is interior . <S> There's also a note at the bottom stating that this chart is very conservative, erring on the side of caution. <S> Of course, this applies mostly to more traditional setups. <A> If you can't find the specs in the material that came with the wheels or online, contact Zipp directly.
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In your situation, the only factor that limits tire width is frame/fork clearance, you will be fine even with a 23mm real width tire, not mentioning a Conti tyre that runs wider than claimed. Zipp should publish specifications for the range of tire sizes that their wheels will accept.
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Is this bike salvageable? I have an old Peugeot Vagabond. It's been sitting out in the New Mexico weather for more than a few years. I'm wondering if it's worth trying to fix up, or if I should just go get a new bike? I tried to get the chain off (yes, with a chain tool), but it's not going to come off without considerable effort. Both sprockets are very rusted. And the derailers. I know I'll need new cables, brake pads, cable tube things. I'm pretty sure the rims are still true-ish, but I'll probably need new bearings. The handlebars also are significantly stiff when turning. I'm thinking the only thing still salvageable is the frame. Ask for more pictures if needed. (Please suggest appropriate tags. I tried.) <Q> It might be salvageable but the cost of: new chain ($10) new tires and tubes ($25) rear cluster (maybe; $20) new brake cables and pads ($10) new derailleur cables ($10) <S> which is the minimal repair, is going to be around $75 in just parts, <S> that’s if you get the dirt cheapest versions. <S> You’ll quickly get to the price of a good used bike if you have to pay labor and even if you do it yourself, you’ll quickly rack up a bill. <A> I've seen far worse. <S> Go to a paint store and buy some "wood bleach". <S> Be sure to get the stuff that's a liquid and contains "oxalic acid". <S> Put some of that in a spray bottle and spray down all the rusted bits with it, getting them thoroughly wetted. <S> Wipe well with paper towel or rag. <S> Next spray <S> well with WD-40 & wipe. <S> Finally, oil thoroughly with a good "medium" chain oil, wipe, then oil again. <S> Of course, you need new tires, and the bearings may need to be taken apart and greased, but that's for another question. <A> Fundamentally, it’s the frame. <S> If the frame just has a little cosmetic rust or paint problems, but is fundamentally sound, it will be definitely not-not-worth-it. <S> You definitely need some new tires. <S> A little Phil Wood grease in the right places helps a lot <S> In many ways you have a lot of freedom. <S> WD40? <S> why not. <S> A pressure wash? <S> just take apart after. <S> Patience an persistence works. <S> Try riding it as soon as possible . <S> Liking a bike is the real answer. <S> It doesn’t need to be perfect and you should know in an hour worth of riding. <S> Does it feel like it can go faster. <S> How does it feel in a turn.
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If any of your bearings or hubs are seized, you’ll need to rebuild them which isn’t expensive in terms of parts (just bearings and grease), but is labor intensive and requires special tools. I’d sell the frame to someone who wants to rebuild it and already has all the parts — or find a donor bike with a cracked frame that you can steal all the parts from.
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Vibration and wobble after replacing chain I'm having a bit of trouble getting my back wheel on after replacing my chain. There is a wobble once per revolution. It wobbles such that, if viewed from above, it appears to spin straight for most of the revolution then veers to the right briefly then back to straight. Further, if I spin the wheel fast enough the entire bike vibrates a LOT. It is fixed-gear so the crank and chain are spinning at this time as well. My procedure was as follows: Spin wheel to confirm there is no wobble before starting any work Break old chain off with chain tool Connect new chain around frame (but not over the cogs yet) Loosen both nuts on back wheel so I could get the new chain on properly Put chain on over the cogs Tighten non-drive side nut so front of back wheel is angled a little away from drive-side Tighten drive-side nut with half-inch slack in chain (in each dir. vertically) Loosen non-drive side nut, let it land where it wants to, re-tighten (The last three steps were following this guide My searching so far suggests that the wheel may be out of true, but I believe it wasn't to begin with -- is it possible my procedure above caused it to go out of true? Is there anything else I can check? <Q> The axle is a single piece and it has 2 functions. <S> The first is to secure the bike to the frame <S> but it is also the stationary part of the hub that transfers the forces on the frame to the wheel through the wheel bearings. <S> Since the axle is a single piece, Tightening the frame to axle bolts could be tightening the hub to bearing torque. <S> The wheel will feel gritty when you rotate it. <A> I wonder if there’s a tight spot in the chain, caused by stiff links or cog/chainring tolerances. <S> Now check the chain tension with the cranks in and around this position. <S> You would need to adjust the chain tension to allow more slack in this position, or replace cog/chainring as appropriate. <S> Or, that’s not the problem <S> and I’m talking nonsense! <S> You can check the trueness of the wheel by installing it in the dropouts without the chain (leave that connected just hanging off the chainstay). <S> Rest something soft plastic (eg tyre lever) against the seatstay and move up close to the rim. <S> Check for deviations laterally and look for up and down rim movement too. <S> But there’s no reason to think you’ve put it out of true from what you’ve described. <A> I'm guessing you might have the opposite of the problem that Stanley P mentions -- your hub bearings could be too loose. <S> Simple test: With the bike off the ground grasp the tire and attempt to move it side-to side. <S> If you see/feel any "rattle" in the bearings then they are too loose. <S> With some "slow release" style hubs <S> it's fairly easy to get the bearing adjustment mucked up when you remove-reinstall a wheel. <S> (This could of course be mated with an un-true wheel or stiff links or some such, the combo producing the vibration.) <A> You have two problems. <S> First, the rim is out of true. <S> This probably doesn't have anything to do with the chain. <S> Second, your cogs are worn. <S> On a singlespeed the chain can't skip like with derailleur, but it will cause noise and vibration.
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If it is very taut then it could be pulling the wheel to the side every time the cranks hit this position. Rotate the wheel slowly and find the spot where the rim pulls to the side.
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How do carbon fibre road bikes handle rough conditions? I'm considering buying a entry level road bike for around 2000€. I'll use it for commuting every day 20km and for long rides up to 150km. I'll try to use an older bike when it rains, but I'll have to ride the new one sometimes. Also, on my longer rides, I can't always find a road and will have to ride on unpaved roads or even some gravel. I'm interested in some models like the Bianchi Intenso Centaur 11v, Canyon CF SL 8.0, or Stevens Izoard Pro, and I'd change the tyres to Continental Gatorskin 700x28. Will occasional rides in those conditions destroy such a bike? My worries are not so much about comfort, but losing such a lot of money because something gets broken if those bikes can't handle it. I currently ride a steel single-speed bike with the mentioned tyres, and I haven't had big issues in over 4000km with some bad weather with a lot of unplanned unpaved and gravel roads. <Q> Carbon fiber road bikes are generally perfectly capable of being ridden on less than perfect surfaces without sustaining damage. <S> Obviously you want to avoid large obstacles such as potholes, rocks, kerbs etc. <S> 28mm tires are definitely a good idea. <S> Depending on how much poor quality surface you plan to ride on, you might want to consider looking for a 'mild' gravel bike that can take 35mm tires. <A> There's two distinct sides to this question: how does carbon fiber the material fare the way it's used in modern road bikes, and how do carbon road bikes with the features they almost all have fare. <S> It's relatively easy for permanent damage to be done by piercing, denting, gouging, or abrading contact against frame members. <S> It also takes relatively less unintentional cyclic tire, cable, or rider contact with frame members to wear significant amounts of material away. <S> If your commutes mimic the type of recreational, sporty riding that carbon road bikes are really designed for, you're less likely to encounter issues from any of these weaknesses. <S> If you've got more "real world" type risk factors, for example the need to leave the bike locked up on a city street where anyone can lock up next to it and gouge it with a pedal, carbon can be a liability. <S> If the bike's economics as a means of transportation has meaning to you, i.e. if you need it to get around and replacing it if damaged would be a huge burden, carbon easily becomes an outright bad choice compared to a steel bike with none of the aforementioned toughness/fragility issues, much lower cost, and negligibly less performance. <S> A second factor is that the integrated headsets and various press-fit BBs now found on most carbon road bikes, and especially BB30, were really never intended to be low-maintenance and long-lived in real-world conditions, and especially with regular exposure to rain and grit. <S> They have inferior sealing and tend to develop creaks and/or wear out quickly compared to pressed headsets and threaded shells. <S> If you live someplace dry, these concerns are lessened. <S> Everywhere else, they are terrible features for a commute bike. <A> Pro cyclists, (road, gravel, mountain) have been using carbon bikes for at least a decade. <S> They ride hard, really hard, and in rough environment (think cobblestones) at full speed and in the rain as well in the dry. <S> If you take care of your bike, it will outlive you. <S> Have no fear. <A> Usually no problem, just make sure your carbon bike has the cables integrated into the frame and not externally routed ones. <S> This is much more durable when riding in rough conditions. <S> Furthermore some kind of a frameprotection is advised. <S> (Chain catcher, the new Ultegra RD-8000 with the shadow technology for gravel roads, frame protection stickers/foil for BB-area of frame.)
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Carbon road bikes, as they actually exist for the most part, are excellent at being structurally strong against all the typical loads on a bike, but are relatively vulnerable to incidental damage compared to metal bikes. Just be certain that the bike you choose allows wider tires if needed (for gravel...)
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Broken fork and front wheel after head-on crash, need to replace headset? Crashed out a couple of months ago, broke my front wheel, fork, and left collarbone. The crash busted my fork pretty bad, I can't even turn the front wheel now without it getting stuck on the frame. Will I need to replace the headset as well? As much as the front wheel permits, it seems to turn smooth, with no noise or resistance. Thank you. UPD: Ended up replacing the headset, the old one had a little resistance as the wheel passed the center. The repair guys said that it was good as new and probably just needed a new fork that's not bent to hell. However, my old headset was loose ball bearing and the new one is on sealed bearings, so I don't regret replacing it. <Q> I am sorry to hear about the crash! <S> You do want to get a bike store to inspect the bike. <S> Headsets can take damage in crashes like that, but we don't know for sure. <S> Ride like that, and over time, I think you have a good chance of damaging the head tube. <S> As @nollak <S> and @DanielRHicks mentioned, you also want to make sure that your frame is in alignment (and this is not something most people have the tools for at home). <S> Guys, your comments could have been answers. <A> Some years ago I crashed into a car. <S> I was probably exceeding 50 km/h and went into a completely stopped car. <S> The symptoms were the same as those of your bike but my wheel was salvable. <S> It is important to say that my bike and fork are made of aluminium. <A> A headset isn't that expensive but why not try a new fork and wheel in the existing one? <S> Nothing to lose really. <S> The only thing you might damage is the bearing race on the fork when you set it. <S> And if you do, just buy a new headset. <S> I'd be more worried about the headtube/downtube welds being weakened, but it's CrMo <S> so it's probably fine.
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If the headset was damaged, how it happened was probably that the fork steerer banged against one of the races and dented it, which would cause your fork to feel loose in the headset and not turn smoothly. If your frame is made of carbon, you may need to do a further diagnosis, not for the headset but for the frame. I didn't need to replace the headset, just the fork, and I still ride that bike everyday.
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Does toddler need a helmet inside a bicycle trailer? I am thinking about buying a trailer for my 1yo daughter. They are quite common in my region (southern Germany) but I haven't seen a single kid with a helmet inside. I know that there is no law that regulates it. Does trailer's manual ask to wear a helmet? Or are there any official (not necessary German) recommendations about wearing it? <Q> Generally helmets are recommended for carrier usage by manufacturers and governing bodies, although local cultural practices may vary depending on perceived risks. <S> Helmets are recommended because it is still possible to crash or even roll a trailer, just as it is possible to crash on a bicycle, even if you are riding slowly and in quiet areas. <S> While children should be wearing seat belts within the carrier/trailer, the structures would not provide adequate protection against head injuries, making helmets the last line of defense against a head injury in the case of a crash. <A> We opted for helmeting our kid whenever we use the trailer in bicycle mode (i.e. not as a pram). <S> This is why: Our neighbours managed to flip over their trailer once. <S> Kid got a nasty bump on the head, despite having been strapped in. <S> Establish from the start that bicycles and helmets go together, no discussion. <A> No, your kid does not need a helmet, if you have a proper trailer. <S> Proper trailers do have belts and rollover protection. <S> If you don't wear a helmet in your car, you don't need one in a trailer. <S> Smaller kids without proper neck muscles should be seated in a special seat (like the fitting car seats), which doesn't permit helmets. <S> Manufacturer advice is mixed: Croozer explicitly states the lack of need for helmet protection inside its trailers, Weber advises a helmet a protection against hitting the side or the other kid (Ritschies are two seated models). <S> As you state to live in southern Germany: if you travel to Austria, helmets are obligatory, even in trailers, until the age of 12. <S> Opinion : I find the focus on head injuries in biking excessive. <S> For trailers a very sturdy base tub (trailer is hit or trailer is damaged from below) and a secured connection (accidental separation at high speeds or on hard braking) is so much more important to avoid severe injuries. <S> Unfortunately the last systematic test by Stiftung <S> Warentest is quite old now (2010). <A> I mainly go with @Leonidas: no helmet for children inside. <S> We have a quality trailer (from Chariot). <S> I like my children not to wear a helmet in the trailer because: A helmet puts their head in an uncomfortable position (pushes headsdown) <S> In an accident, the inertia of the helmet may cause a whiplash injury. <S> Just to emphasize: This is highly controversial where I live (Switzerland). <S> I even do not agree with my wife on this. <S> As a fact Helmets are not required by law on a bicycle or in a trailer. <A> I too prefer a helmet, but many children that are well within the weight limit are too tall to fit inside with a helmet on (mine, for example, age 4). <S> Most trailers have a 5 point harness and a frame that acts as a roll cage, which combine to reduce the need for a helmet. <A> I'm with the others in saying that a helmet is a good idea. <S> Not only in the event of a crash, but also just in getting in the habit of wearing a helmet while out on the bike. <S> For what it's worth, Ontario law requires that all riders under the age of 18 wear a helmet whether they be on a bike, in a carrier or towed in a trailer. <A> Not as much needed as in a child seat, but still an added security factor. <S> The kid could bash their head on the struture in a sudden movement of the trailer. <A> Always get your child to wear a helmet, rolled the trailer Sunday with my 3-year old grandson inside and he had the worst head wound I have ever seen. <S> Horrific. <A> we have a 12 month old baby and a Burley Solo. <S> Where we live there is no mandatory rules on helmet wearing for any ages (which is a shame). <S> I am 100% on board with our baby wearing a helmet. <S> Although the construction is sturdy, and there is a quality belt system, I believe there are too many unknown scenarios to depend solely on the safety/contruction of the trailer and my ability to avoid an accident. <S> So the baby (as well as me) wears a helmet. <S> I agree the car analogy is erroneous, they are two completely different environments. <S> I agree that wearing a helmet from the get-go will hopefully instill this practice as a norm for the future. <S> Additionally the Burley Solo has extra space behind the head specifically for the helmet bulk.
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If I had a child in a trailer, I would put a helmet on them. They may cause (smaller) injuries to their sibling next to them
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Is it a good idea to lift the front wheel to go through small bumps? I was wondering if it is a good idea, when riding fast on a road bike, to lift the front wheel when I find a 5-10cm bump. Does it damage the rear wheel more? Is it good or bad for the front wheel? I feel like I don't feel so much the bump if I do that but what matters is if I'm damaging the wheels. <Q> Potential for damage to wheels depends on sharpness of the bump, speed, bike and rider weight, tire volume and pressure, and how tough the wheels are. <S> Moving your weight back or pulling up on the bars will lessen the impact to the front wheel but will increase impact on the rear. <S> Large or sharp bumps are best avoided altogether. <S> Standing on the pedals with bent knees and lifting your butt off the seat a little will allow the bike to move underneath you and absorb the impact. <S> You can also move your weight back as the front wheel goes over the bump then move weight forward as the back wheel goes over, but this gets harder to do as speed increases. <A> Hitting any obstacle with the front wheel has always a worse events development potential compared to hitting the same obstacle with the rear wheel: one can loose control over the bicycle and fall down. <S> Achieving the same result after a hit in the rear wheel is also possible, but much less probable (however, another possibility to be thrown out of saddle if one sits too tight on it arises). <S> Even if the rear wheel skids or destroys itself, you will still regain much of control so that you are more likely to make a controllable stop. <S> Because of this, if no other alternative is available (braking, avoiding, hoping over etc.), I would recommend lifting the front wheel. <S> If, after the wheel is over the obstacle and you still have reaction to unlift some weight from the rear wheel, do it. <S> If you do not do that, it is fine as long as you are not sitting fully on the saddle. <S> Otherwise the rear wheel bump will have chance to throw you into air. <S> Standing on the pedals is recommended during the whole time of attack. <S> I feel like I don't feel so much the bump <S> It is actually good that you do not feel the bump <S> — it means you have overcome it without creating a risk to loose control. <S> If you were standing on pedals, it were your legs that absorbed the bump for you. <S> If you sat fully on your saddle, the whole kinetic energy change caused by the bump would have been transfered to your center of mass, effectively launching your whole body into flight. <S> if I do that <S> but what matters is if I'm damaging the wheels. <S> Yourself avoiding undesired flight matters more than your wheels. <S> Wheels are built to withstand bumps, do not think about them too much. <A> For sharp-edged bumps it is better not to hit them "head-on" with either wheel. <S> In that case, a bunny hop to get both wheels over without contact is best. <S> If the bump is somewhat rounded it probably doesn't matter if you roll over it or jump over it and land the wheels from the air.
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Doing so will help the rear wheel to bump over the obstacle and minimize risk of wheel damage.
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New inner tube bulges near the valve when inflated I've installed a new inner tube in my wheel. I checked the tube doesn't make a knot. When I inflate the tube, it bulges near the valve, and this rubs against the brakes. REF tube: 32/47 609/642 REF tyre: 42-622 700 x 40C What could be the cause of this (wrong size of inner tube?) and how can I fix it? PS: I'm not sure if it's a dup of Uneven inner tube when inflated inside the tyre ? Thanks. <Q> Unless the tire bead (the re-enforcing wire around the edges) is damaged your tire is simply not seated on the rim properly near the valve and has popped off as the tube was inflated. <S> Tube size seems OK. <S> 32/47 possibly means it's compatible with 32-47mm tires. <S> If it's about the same as your old tube that it's OK. <S> Deflate the tube and re-seat the tire. <S> There are many good videos on YouTube that show correct procedure (try this one ). <S> but some key points: <S> Make sure the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim. <S> Make sure the reenforced valve area of the tube is pushed up into the tire <S> Make sure the tire is evenly seated on the bead all the way around. <S> There is often a line moulded into the tire around the bead that lines up with the rim you can use a a reference. <A> This is not uncommon. <S> The inner tube is not evenly distributed around the tyre. <S> To fix it, remove almost all air from the inner tube, remove the tyre on one side from the rim and put it back on, this time starting at the valve and moving towards the side opposite of it. <S> To make it easier, put some detergent on the rim to make it slippery. <S> Make sure the inner tube does not get caught between rim and tyre. <S> This has a good chance of fixing it by distributing the inner tube evenly inside the tyre. <A> In this case, looking at the picture, it looks like your tire bead is not properly set. <S> So the other answers of deflating and making sure it's set correctly before re-inflation make sense. <S> However, I came here via searching for a similar problem where my tire was set properly, but it was not straight after partially inflating. <S> Some of the tire was farther inside the rim than other parts. <S> This was a newish bike, so it was the first time I fixed a flat. <S> After attempting to re-set the tire multiple times, I realized that I needed to inflate the tire to the maximum PSI (in my case 85 PSI) and ride it around a little bit to allow the tire to slip back into place. <S> Then my tires were straight again!
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It's probably a good idea to get one side of the tire off the rim and make sure the tube is installed correctly too.
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Chain slips on low and high gear and sometimes when putting some strain into it I have been running an 8 speed cassette/freewheel, don't which cuz I never checked before it seized the other day.I was using it with a 7 speed shifter, not ideal I know but it worked OK just used 7 of the 8 cogs. As mentioned above, the other day my cassette/freewheel seized. I had a spare back wheel with a 9 speed cassette on it (I learnt how to check yesterday) so I whacked that on and thought I could just use 7 of the 9 cogs. The chain now slips at both high and low end and sometimes when putting extra strain on it. So my question is, what did I do wrong and what do I need to do to correct it please? Btw the rear derailleur is an 8 speed and the crank set is 3 rings, if that helps any. Thanks in advance XD <Q> Both wear of the rest of the drivetrain (chain in particular can be stretched) and chain width mismatch (9 speed chains are narrower, and so are distance between cogs in the freewheel) can contribute to the skipping you see. <S> In general, 9 speed freewheels work neither with 8 nor with 10 speed chains. <A> It can be, that the spacing between the chainrings is wrong. <S> What I mean is that say spacing between two adjacent chainrings (width 1.8mm) is different on 7/8-speed and <S> 9-speed. <S> I've just checked the spare parts and Miche advertises their 3mm spacers as suitable for 7/8- and 2.6mm spacers for 10-speeds Shimano. <S> With this information I can conclude the following: <S> the complete 7-speed cassette is 7 x 1.8 (chainring width) + 6 x 3 <S> making it 30.6mm and <S> this is what your indexed shifter expects . <S> the 8-speed cassette it will still be 8 x 1.8 (chainring width) + 7 x 3 <S> making it <S> 35.4 but for 9-speed cassette has the spacing reduced to 2.6 making 9 x 1.8 (the same chainring width) + 8 x 2.6 <S> thus 37mm total <S> Now the fun part begins - you decided to use only 7 speeds of your 9 speed cassette. <S> Assuming even width between the chainrings, 7 speeds out of your 9-speed cassette <S> has the width of 7 x 1.8 (chainring width) + 6 x 2.6 <S> making it <S> 28.2mm which is 2.4 mm (or 133% of the chainring width, or one and one third of the chainring inward ) misalignment. <S> If you align the derailleur on the middle gear it is still 1.4mm (or 78% of the chainring width) <S> misalignment on both ends. <S> That is a lot and this misalignment and while adding some tension the chain slips as if you were trying to shift (I've experienced it last weekend on Eroica) but is cannot properly shift as the next chainring is also misaligned. <S> What did you do wrong? <S> You've became a victim of spacer size change when going only one cog up. <A> Try checking your limit screws . <S> Maybe one of these methods work, I have that before <S> and I fixed it with the limit screws .
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if your chains still slipping, shift to the smallest cog and loosen the cable screw , put tension on your cable and tighten it back up. The solution for you is to either: use 9-speed indexed shifter, use non-indexed shifter, come back to 7/8-speed cassette or rebuild your current 9 speed cassette with 8 speed spacers and most likely drop one chainring from it making it an 8-speed cassette effectively.
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Knowing what size bike to look for I am presently riding a hybrid that apparently is a bit too small for me, and I'd like to replace it with a road bike. Having ridden this improperly-sized bike for as long as I have (about 8 months, including one MS150), I am interested in making sure that the next bike I buy is properly sized. The sizing numbers published for different bike models are only somewhat helpful, because a 54cm bike, even of the same type, will fit different people depending on who made the bike. It would have been more helpful if the sizing was listed as a range of heights for riders (such as, "best fits riders from 175 to 185 cm"). Somewhat complicating the issue is that (as I have mentioned in another question) I am chronically short of funds, and there is a high chance that I'll be buying something off of Craig's List or some other such place. I don't want to waste the seller's time by trying the bike if there's any chance that I won't buy it. I'd much prefer to know when I show up to make the purchase that the bike is manufactured for a rider of my height. The same goes for mail-order. If I go this route, I want a reasonable certainty that the bike is made for someone my size. I don't want to deal with the hassle of returning a bike that doesn't hit my own personal Goldilocks zone. I'd also rather not trouble bike shop personnel to let me try a bike to see if the sizing is right unless I'm ready to buy from that shop (possible but by all means not certain); I like to think that I'm a golden rule sort of person and using their time in this way seems too much like taking advantage of them. However, if this is considered by them to be a cost of doing business, then it's not a show-stopper. That all being said, what's the best way to go about finding what size bike will fit me best? (If it helps to be more specific, I'm mostly interested in a road bike.) <Q> While Michaels answer is the more correct one, I found ETT or effective top tube length quite useful for me when buying second hand. <S> It is easier for the seller to measure, and was more useful to me than the seat post height since that is trivially adjustable and my upper body is smaller than it should be for my height.. <S> Edit: The effective top tube length is the horizontal distance from the top tube/head tube junction to the seat tube. <S> This measurement has become significant as more and more bikes are designed with sloping top tubes. <S> (from https://www.bikecad.ca/effective_top_tube_length ) <A> As you’ve already noticed, comparing “sizes” or calculating a certain size for your body measurements doesn’t really work. <S> Generally you shouldn’t compare size numbers but the stack and reach values. <S> They are comparable across different brands and models and the only measurements which really matter. <S> Once you’ve ridden a bike you’ve felt comfortable on, be sure to find out its stack and reach values. <S> This is usually easiest by looking up the specific model on the internet. <S> If you don’t need/want an aggressive seating position (i.e. low handlebars) <S> the stack value is not that important since it’s almost always possible to go higher by adding spacers or a raised stem. <S> Reach can only be adjusted by changing the stem length. <S> Handling is usually okay-ish from around 80mm to around 140mm stem length on a road bike (most are sold with 90 – 110mm). <S> This limits the reach adjustability to a few centimeters. <S> As you’ve probably noticed, stack and reach completely disregard the saddle position. <S> That’s because the saddle can usually be adjusted in such a wide range that it’s not an issue. <A> In addition to that, the sizes do not tell you anything about the riding geometry of the bike - whether is has an aggressive or relaxed riding position. . <S> The stack and reach <S> (describes in another answer) <S> measurements are much better because they are absolute and define the riding geometry. <S> The trouble is it's difficult to know what stack and reach you prefer if you don't have a bike that fits you already or have not tried out several bikes. <S> The general advice repeated on this site is that when buying you need to try bikes out for size a test ride them. <S> Don't be afraid to ask for a few test rides at some local bike stores. <S> Offering test rides is a cost of doing business for them and they are not just trying to sell you a bike, they are also trying to give the best impression so you'll come back for accessories and bike repair services. <S> Also, it's worth checking out local bike stores for discounted models or deals they are offering. <S> As long as you have a good idea that a bike is in your size range <S> it's perfectly reasonable to check it out. <S> Just be polite and work with sellers to set up appointments to view bikes that are convenient for them. <S> Also don't be afraid to ask reasonable questions before hand. <S> A decent seller will be happy to answer. <A> Generally it is better to err one size too small than one size too big on the frame. <S> Overall fit really comes down to a triangle drawn between bottom bracket(pedals), seat, and grips. <S> This triangle can be stretched or rotated. <S> The length of the pedal to seat is pretty easy to fit. <S> Seat to grip length is still pretty straight forward and not too critical.(determined by effective top tube plus steering stem plus handle bar choice) <S> bottom bracket to grip length then determines your bend angle at the hip, adjusted with steer stem. <S> The rotation of the whole triangle is a bit more of a personal choice, it is determined first by seat tube angle and fine tuned with the seat <S> clamp(most clamps allow the seat to slide a bit fore and aft.) <S> and steer stem angle. <S> Crank length is determined by femur length and determines knee flex. <S> (most folks cranks are too long, use gears to get leverage not your knees) <S> But nobody seems to make multiple lengths these days, other than the most expensive models and even there it is a trivial selection. <S> Fore aft weight balance is a consideration but somewhat trivial unless you have an abnormal leg to torso ratio or find a rare bike frame that was intended for a special purpose. <S> Affected by seat tube angle, chain stay length(moves rear wheel), sliding seat fore-aft, top tube and head tube angle(moves front wheel), and steer stem length. <S> And so I would judge a frame in this order: <S> consider seat tube angle fits what you want in general riding position and that it has your required features eg. <S> clearance for fenders or braze-ons for racks, and of course overall quality/value. <S> effective top tube length is in a reasonable range so your steer stem isn't at a min or max <S> length.(allows some future adjustments) <S> double check the seat be adjusted high enough or low enough.(plus a bit extra for changes in cranks or a new seat) usually not an issue for average bikes with average people if the top tube length is good. <S> parts that can be changed; cranks, steer stem, handle bars, seat...
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As you say, bike sizes (either nominal seat tube length or small-medium-large etc) are only an approximation. Don't be afraid to ask to view and test bikes offered on Craigslist.
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Reduced braking force in V brakes I have a foldie which has always had bad/weak rear brakes, which keep getting worse. To preempt the response that they are expected to be weaker than front brake, this isnt a question about weight transfer, or traction being lower in the back, or the rear wheel locking up sooner. Right now, if i were to brake the rear while moving, I barely feel any braking at all. I have tried to adjust it to be angled correctly and hitting the rim correctly but it seems to make the issue worse. I recently noticed that both the rim surfaces are a bit curved (the centre is about 1 mm thiner/deeper than the top/bottom edges (if that makes sense). One side is worse than the other, which made me feel it was a manufacturing defect, but now i see that the other side has a similar (but less pronounced) curve, which makes me feel it is just a wear thing. I also notice that the rear brake pads are very smooth to the touch. They still have the grooves vertically, which indicates that they arent worn out yet? Should i try to sand it down a bit to try and improve the braking? Is there anything else I can do? Is the rim wearing down normally or is that the cause of the braking issue? (I have been sorta compulsively trying to adjust the back brake nearly as long as i can remember, cant get them working as I would like.) The bike is ~2 years old, ~1300km riden. Sorry for the rambly post. Edit: The rim is curved, but the wear indicators are still quite pronounced. Does this mean the rim has bent rather than worn out? The brake pads are quite worn out as well, one of the edges of one of the pads has reached the wear indicator, so I have ordered a new pair. Removing, servicing, and reseating the pads seems to have given me some braking power for now. Remains to be seen if it lasts long. I could find a couple of small metal pieces(like 2-3 sub mm size) on the pad, but not enough to explain the wear. I wasn't able to hear them when I brake either so might not have been a major factor. <Q> A 1mm curve on the brake track suggests that the rims are worn and you need new wheels; on the other hand, it's strange that they'd be so worn after only 1300km. <S> I'm not sure <S> how much that will affect your braking performance but the rims weaken as they're worn away by the brakes (of course) and will eventually fail if not replaced. <A> I agree with David Richerby : The curve in the rim is bad . <S> There is a chance that this was caused by some abrasive debries being caught up by the rubber of your pads, which was then regularly pressed against the rim when braking. <S> You should have been able to hear this, but apparently and unfortunately, you didn't notice. <S> This could have had an effect like replacing the pads with sandpaper, so even if it was temporary, it may have had a quite lasting effect. <S> You say that your pads are smooth now, so probably the pads are fine again. <S> Irrespective of the state of your pads, the rim is a security risk now, and should be replaced ASAP. <S> There are different brake types out there, some require the cable to move a large distance, some require the cable to transmit a lot of force. <S> Your lever either delivers one or the other, not both. <S> V-breaks require the long-move. <S> If you are using a wrong lever, the distance that you can move your break pads will simply be too short. <S> So, make sure that you are indeed using a V-break lever, or, if your lever is adjustable, that it's used in V-break mode. <A> Sounds like a cable issue. <S> In my experience the orientation of the brake pads and the cleanliness of the rim and pads has much less effect on stopping power than proper, low-friction cables and housing. <S> Are you able to move the levers smoothly and with very little friction/force up to the point where the pads engage? <S> Since the brakes and levers seem to be no-name parts: Is the front brake (which seems to use the same parts) working satisfactorily? <S> Edit: While you are at it you could also replace the brake pads for high quality pads (e.g. the green Swissstop or the salmon <S> Kool Stop pads) which should improve braking power, especially in wet conditions. <S> They will probably also reduce rim wear.
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Concerning your inability to tightly grab the rim with your break pads: You should check the lever you are using. This indicates an enormous amount of wear, that is not justified by your mileage, whatsoever. You might want to replace the housing and cable.
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Any knowledge on LaFree Electric Bicycle? I have this LaFree Electric Bike, all I really know about it is that it was made by Giant. I am an Electrical Engineering student and I am looking at bringing new life into it, would it be worth updating to more modern standards? Any information on this bike is greatly appreciated! <Q> This is a Giant Lafree e-trans e-bike. <S> They were made in three versions from 1999 on and yours is the Sport model. <S> It has two SLA batteries totalling 24 volts in the case. <S> The roadster version I knew had the charger integrated in the bike <S> so your's probably has too. <A> Looks like a comparatively old ebike. <S> Start by pulling the battery and check its chemistry and state of charge. <S> Googling suggests Sealed Lead Acid or possibly Nickel Metal-Hydride. <S> There are plenty of google results out there for "lafree electric bike" <A> I just bought the same one at the flea market, I have the book, it has few stains on it ( the book ) <S> I can scan it for you if you likeI have the battery housing, but I don't have any batteries inside it, I would love to adapt a connector so I can slip couple of power tools batteries in there from Kobalt or Dewalt or others since I already use those on my tools and have the charger for them <A> I bought a Giant LaFree Lite bike new in late 2003, and pedaled it until I broke a transmission case at about 5000 miles <S> (aluminum casting, weak design) wore out the internal hub gears inside the back rim (around 6000 miles) <S> then the frame broke, down near the pedals/transmission, because aluminum is weak, and weaker near a weld. <S> That was at just over 6,000 miles. <S> I am 5'8", average build, so am no Goliath or Superman. <S> The bikes were just built to last a few thousand miles, tops. <S> Altogether, in the 15 months or so I rode it to stay in shape, I was in my mid-50s, and put over 8,000 miles on it, and the battery still worked good. <S> It showed some signs of age, but was still at about 80-90%. <S> It seemed like 100% though, because I had gotten so much stronger over that year-plus. <S> I'm getting the battery rebuilt now, so I can get it out and ride it some more, now that I am old and retired. <S> (turning 69 next month!) <S> Looks like a bike that will snap in two like a wishbone because it has no triangle between the seat post and front yoke. <S> Aluminum frame, too, I bet. <S> Fenders were designed by an idiot, who does not know how water flings off a spinning tire.
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Give the bike parts a bike safety check, and probably replace the brake pads just because ebikes are heavy.
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Rear derailleur moves to much for each click - tried everything Two years ago I build a bike (flat bar) with SRAM 1x11. Around a month ago the rear-derailleur broke (guide pulley broke). I bought a new rear derailleur: Shimano 105 RD-5800-GS. After installation shifting got bad. The rear derailleur moves to far for each click, so sometimes it changes two gears for one click. It only takes 8 clicks to move the chain from the inner sprocket to the outer - and only 8 clicks to move it back. In other words it seems like the derailleur moves around 5 millimeters instead of 4 millimeters. I have another bike (road bike) with Shimano 105 5800 group (2x11). I tried to take the wheel and the rear derailleur from that bike to the bike with the problem. It did not help - problem was the same. I bought a new shifter: "Shimano XTR SL-M9000-R Rapidfire Plus Shifting Lever - 11-speed". Problem was still the same after installation. (Cable was also changed). I bought and installed a new derailleur hanger. Problem is still the samme. I have not had any crashes. I think I have tried everything. Any ideas, what can I try ? <Q> So you originally had a have a SRAM 1x11 derailleur and matching shifter then swapped the rear derailleur for a Shimano 105. <S> That is your problem right there. <S> Shimano derailleurs are not compatible with SRAM shifters. <S> The length of cable the shifter pulls for each gear change is different between SRAM and Shimano (and between Shimano road and mountain groupsets at 10 speed and above). <S> That's why the derailleur is moving the incorrect distance for each gear shift. <S> You need a SRAM derailleur <S> that is compatible with your SRAM shifter. <S> You can replace the guide wheels in all but the cheapest derailleurs, so you could fix your original SRAM derailleur and re-install that. <S> Or you could of course replace the shifter with one compatible with whichever Shimano derailleur you choose to run. <A> Your derailleur and shifter are incompatible. <S> Derailleur gears work by the shifter moving the gear cable in or out a certain distance (the "cable pull"), which causes a mechanical linkage in the derailleur to move the derailleur in or out a certain (different) distance (cable pull times "shift ratio"). <S> Different companies' cassettes may also have the cogs at different physical spacing. <S> For example, suppose your cogs are 5mm apart. <S> A very simple mechanism might just have the shifter pull the cable 5mm, which moves the derailleur 5mm, but a different system might have the shifter pull the cable only 2.5mm with the derailleur linkage doubling that. <S> You then had a Shimano 105 road bike derailleur, which isn't compatible with the SRAM shifter because it has a different shifting ratio so needs a different cable pull to move it the right distance. <S> You now have a Shimano 105 road bike derailleur attached to an Shimano XTR mountain bike shifter, which is still not giving the right cable pull for the derailleur's shifting ratio. <S> In short, pick a product line and stick to it. <A> You can rock 11 speed mountain with 11 speed road. <S> Check out these guys: <S> https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/derailleur-optimization/products/tanpan .
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You started with a SRAM derailleur and a compatible SRAM shifter, which worked.
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How to improve climbing speed new cyclist here. I've recently started riding and have worked my way up to a 50K in 2 hours 24 minutes, averaging 21 km/h. I noticed that I really wasn't able to carry my speed through climbs and would like to know how to improve. On flat ground I can go 23-24 km/h but am usually going at a slow jog type pace on any type of hill. Thanks for the help. <Q> Practice. <S> I moved to hilly area a few years ago: I now climb hills by standing on the pedals in a medium gear. <S> I used to climb hills sitting down and "spinning" n the lowest gear, and sometimes stopping half way up to catch my breath. <S> I used to stand on the pedals for a few strokes before getting exhausted. <S> Now I can do it (stand on the pedals) for about 100 breaths (long enough to climb a steep little hill). <S> I deliberately practice on hilly routes. <S> I've never practised only going up and down a hill repeatedly because I fancy that would be boring, but I also avoid sticking to the flattest routes because I'm lazy. <S> It takes me 20 minutes of riding to warm up, fortunately I start at the top of a hill so the up-hill is after I've warmed up. <S> My most regular ride down to the river, and half an hour along the (flat river), and then home via half an hour of hilly route (ups and downs, slightly more up than down). <S> It took me quite a bit of practice, if you're younger than me <S> I guess you'd need less. <A> Like mentioned before take it slow and work up to a steady cadence. <S> I try to keep my cadence uniform and not concentrate so much on speed. <S> Meaning I tend to wait longer until I switch to a higher gear ( easier pedaling but slower progression) and sometimes with shift down while maintaining cadence speed to really make the legs burn while training. <S> Remember to use front gears. <S> It’s important to find that sweet spot/gear for every condition and grade! <S> Hope this helps. <S> My first question answered do I could be way off. <A> In the end climbing is all about watts per kilogram. <S> Increasing strength endurance while reducing body fat as well as bicycle weight will help. <S> A proper seating position can improve your power output (watts) and help with breathing. <S> For steep climbs you can go out of the saddle which takes some training to do properly and efficiently. <S> Make sure you don’t start too fast (i.e. choose easy enough gears). <S> A heart rate monitor or – if you have the money – a power meter can help you pace yourself.
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That being said, I really drive through the watts when climbing to keep cadence up. Summary: when I focus on cadence I am not as concerned with how slow I am going and push myself to try lower gears on familiar hills.
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Why am I breaking Pitlock spring washers so frequently? I'm hoping some pitlock users out there can help me out. I've installed these on a pair of new bikes to add some protection for some expensive wheels. They seem to be a decent deterrent. My problem is that I can't seem to remove them without splitting the thin, notched spring washers that sit beneath the pit nut (and engage its grooves). I've been super careful to press in on the socket/pit when loosening to try to depress those sprung notches. I've also got the hardware on correctly (nylon washer, etc.). I've seen no internet trail of failure for these things, so my assumption is that I'm the problem, but I've busted 3 now despite trying pretty hard not to, and I'm still trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've watched Pitlock's YouTube videos of install/removal, and they're pressing the same way I was during removal (thumb on socket, fingers behind stay, squeeze in, and rotate with tool). Doesn't look like they're cranking that hard. I have installed about the same as they do and explain in the instructions (finger tighten, then 1 to 1 1/2 turns with a lever/tool). I don't think I've overtightened them, and in the last couple of re-installs (with the partially wrecked washers, since replacements haven't arrived yet) I've been erring on the side of a bit looser yet. <Q> I reached out to Pitlock DE about this question specifically (I'm an authorized North American retailer since 2006) and heard this back: <S> Regarding the question of your customer about the spring washers, I talked to our technicians. <S> If you press the key firmly into the lock when opening and closing it, the washer should really last a long time. <S> We’re in close contact with a lot of customers here and seeing their and our own bikes, the washers have lasted years with fairly regular mounting and unmounting. <S> The thing really is to press the washer down with the key when opening the lock. <S> Of course, there can always be an issue with the washer itself. <S> So while this is a part that is expected to wear over time, the experience you (and the respondents in this post) are seeing is unexpected. <S> We do offer replacement spring washers on our site, here: https://www.urbanbiketech.com/collections/accessories/products/replacement-lockring <S> If anyone else is having an issue with unexpectedly high failure rate, please feel free to reach out to me directly (via our contact us page), and I can help rectify the situation with the manufacturer and/or provide an appropriate discount on replacement products. <A> I encountered the same thing with them and had the same experience of it being maddening and inexplicable. <S> Don't go too far with installing them looser; one thing I did learn is that Pitlocks are perfectly good at coming loose if the initial torque is low. <S> My "solution" was to order a stack of them, which Peter White in the US has. <S> I feel like the one I have on now has held out a long time while others blew apart instantly, so there may be a randomness/QC element at play. <A> There is a reason why these washers break so often. <S> I have only used 2 pitlocks for one wheel pair - and already broken both : <S> but I discovered <S> why and can share it with you. <S> I think the problem occurs during improper installation. <S> The hexagonal cutout in the middle of the washers fits exactly over the hexagonal rise in the "pressure washer" when this rises up through the "conical locking ring". <S> I found the hexagons did not align exactly so the spring washers were forced down unevenly by the pit and therefore bent. <S> This is very easy to overlook. <S> I used 8NM - with a proper torque wrench. <S> Screw down the pit slowly by hand, gently to make sure the washer sits in the hexagon - then once tight apply full torque with a torque wrench (7-10NM).I suspect that the force of unlocking will break some spring washers occasionally as the pit must rotate against the "teeth" - but this should make it rarer. <S> Perhaps the instructions should be more explicit. <A> I understand that the reason for the Pitlock lockers installation is anti-theft protection. <S> Have you considered Zefal Lock'N'Roll QR Antitheft Skewers <S> (use your favourite search engine for the details and availability on the product, I'm not affiliated with Zefal anyhow). <S> Those are the typical QR skewers that can be opened only when the bike is upside down (some may be discouraged to purchase them, see http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#49 ). <S> It allows you to replace the wheels without using any specialised tools, adapters, etc. <S> You only have to make sure that when your bike is affixed with a bike lock, it cannot be turned upside down.
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The solution was to install the pitlocks with the bike on the side to make sure once aligned the washer hexagons will stay flush outside the hexagonal recess - making one flat surface. The spring washers are wearing parts in theory but they shouldn’t break that easily.
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Is this cone nut in proper condition? This is the original cone nut of a new coaster brake hub I bought recently. I didn't install it yet, it's new. What bothers me are those weird stains / corrosion signs on the bearing surface.It looks like the chrome plating is damaged (or whatever plating is on them) by corrosion (caused by improper storage conditions?), or physical damage (over tightening?). Just my speculations. The camera/contrast settings might make it look worse: Video (for different angles / light reflections): Is it a good idea to just ride it and recheck its condition after a couple of rides? Or will it just fail right away? Can I polish it with sandpaper? <Q> Update: <S> It's been over a year since I posted the question and I rode ~1000km on that bike. <S> I had no problems with the hub. <S> The cone looks better now, and performs well. <S> I believe there were just some stains on the surface. <S> Here's a picture of it now, cleaned and degreased. <S> I left the dust cap on now, because last time I took it off it was a pain to put it back on. <S> I think the imprefections on the bearing surface are being accentuated a little by my camera's default edge enhancement algorithms; with the naked eye they're less visible. <A> I'm just a guy who's serviced a few dozen cup and cone hubs in his day. <S> I can't imagine that's going to last. <S> Every cone I've ever had was highly polished, hardened steel. <S> I've never seen plating. <S> I've thrown out cones that were pitted less severely than the flaking on this looks, because they were pretty gravelly in use. <A> I would try to remove it with very fine wet and dry (800-1200). <S> (put cone in drill, sand off as it spins) <S> Aside from high-end cones, they don't actually come highly polished. <S> Often just oil blackened, sometimes fairly coarsely ground, The balls polish them in service, and the oxide just wears off into the grease, and is presumably OK. <S> The important thing is that the steel is not pitted by corrosion.
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However I expect it is just a poor flashing of zinc or cadmium (both soft, shouldn't be cadmium nowadays), that would normally wear straight off the bearing surfaces as soon as ridden.
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Is there a bicycle designed for slow riding? I enjoy my road bike, but recently my children have become old enough to ride, but still very slowly. I'd like to be able to ride with them on all or mostly flat pavement, but the road bike just isn't pleasant for slow riding as it takes more effort to balance and isn't that comfortable. What type(s) of bike is well-suited for very slow comfortable riding like this? <Q> Any bike with a comfortable seat, upright riding position and low ratio gears. <S> This is pretty much the definition of a 'cruiser' style bike. <S> Many hybrids, less expensive mountain bikes and fatbikes would fit the requirement too. <A> You could consider a 3-wheeled recumbent bicycle : <S> Photo courtesy of Willeke <S> These tend to be more comfortable, and the three wheels mean balance is not an issue, so you can go slowly or stop altogether without any balance issues. <S> (Note that there are also two-wheeled recumbents, but they would probably not serve your purposes as well.) <A> You might want to consider a fat-bike. <S> They're naturally slower, because they're meant for really rough terrain, so they have low gearing, high frame mass to be sturdy and higher rolling resistance due to the fat wheels. <S> The fat wheels also make them pretty stable. <S> Plus, if you're so inclined, after you don't need it for going slow anymore, you can keep on using it to do completely different kind of biking than your existing road bike: rough off-road. <A> Get a "mountain bike" rather than a road bike. <S> It's what I think of as a normal bike anyway, but they don't go as fast. <S> It's easier to keep your balance on them too. <A> A cargo tricycle? <S> Bonus is that you can save gas getting groceries with it. <A> Those designed for quick maneuvers are generally very short (criterium) wheelbase designs. <S> But the tradeoff is, of course, that the long wheelbase makes those quick direction changes a bit more difficult. <S> Modern bikes tend to have straight forks and very steep head angles (where the fork attaches to the frame). <S> Both of these shorten the wheelbase and make the bike more "responsive" aka "twitchy." <S> Shallow angles and curved forks go the other way. <S> Stability and comfort. <S> I hate to recommend anyone get a heavy bike, but there is some effect. <S> The lighter the bicycle, the higher the center of gravity overall (i.e. you). <S> On the other hand, track riders can ride slowly, even stand in place. <S> They do this with skill and the lack of a freewheel. <S> You can even ride backwards on a track bike. <S> These bikes are also twitchy in the extreme. <S> But it is rider skill. <S> With enough practice you can learn to "stand on the pedals". <S> That is, balance the bike in place, though with a freewheel you need to also use the brakes You've probably seen people doing this when stopped at a light, balanced upright. <A> I have a foldable bike which is quite comfy at low speeds (especially so probably due to the low CG). <S> With the added advantage that you can transport it easily to kid friendly bike paths.
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Generally speaking, a bicycle with a longer wheelbase will be more stable when ridden slowly.
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Chain shifting when back pedaling On my bike I found that when I backpedal, if the chain isnt perfectly straight, it is prone to shift to a more central gear. E.g would be if on the small chainring and the largest cog, backpedaling even a turn or two seems to result in a shift to the 2nd or 3rd cog. I came across a similar question which settled with the answer that it is due to the chainline, which I agree is not perfectly straight, but neither is it so bad that it is considered "cross chaining" and it works quite well in the forward direction. Beyond just chainline, is it also an indicator of other issues? Chain wear? Cassette wear (I notice that some teeth are angled forward/away from the bike, and such teeth end up causing the shift)? This is a second hand bike which is 5-10 years old. Running Tiagra 9 speed. <Q> This is pretty much expected behavior. <S> When you're pedaling forward, the top half of the chain is pulled tight by the tension from your pedaling, and the lower half is held in tension by the derailleur. <S> The derailleur is also very close to the rear sprockets so it can guide the nicely-tensioned chain onto the proper gear. <S> When you pedal backwards, you pull on the bottom of the chain which pulls the derailleur forward. <S> That creates chain slack. <S> Some of that chain slack shows up on the top half of the chain as the chain links get dumped off the front chainring into space on the way backwards. <S> So when you're pedaling backwards there's nothing on the top side to maintain tension. <S> A slack chain will flop around and there's nothing on the top side to guide where the chain lands on the rear gears. <S> So the loose flopping chain is free to go where it wants. <S> Derailleur-equipped bicycles are not designed to be pedaled backwards. <S> Pedaling backwards is a great way to drop your chain, especially if you do it suddenly and hard. <A> As already stated in Andrew Henles Answer <S> this is expected behaviour as the chain is not guided towards the correct cog except by the fact that it is already on it. <S> This should be sufficient to keep the chain on the correct cog if you back-pedal lightly. <S> The problem of the chain changing gear when back-pedalling is aggravated though by increased friction in your freehub. <S> This may have several reasons: <S> The grease inside got sticky <S> There is too little grease inside <S> There is dirt inside <S> The bearings are worn out and need replacing <S> Take the wheel out and spin the cassette to test the freehubs friction. <S> Another indicator would be to let your rear-wheel coast (spin without pedalling) and have a look at the upper chain line. <S> If it becomes slack then the friction in the hub is likely to be increased. <A> Definitely needs to be indexed properly, also need to ensure wheel is clamped in the dropouts <S> correctly(straight) and must make sure derailleur hanger is properly aligned. <S> Definitely a visit to the bike shop. <S> Although a derailleur hanger alignment tool is awesome for the home toolkit if you like tuning your own bikes.
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If you watch the chain closely when you pedal backwards, you can actually see the top of the chain go slack and flop around a bit. If there is a grinding feel to it or it feels very stiff a bit of maintenance may be due. There is too much grease inside
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Could you reduce the weight of a Santa Cruz Chameleon down from 12.82 kg to 10kg (2018 model)? I am currently thinking of getting my first mountain bike, I have ridden a lot of cyclocross and am used to a 10kg bike but am not that familiar where you could save weight on a mountain bike. What components would you use to reduce the weight of a 2018 Santa Cruz Chameleon which currently retails at 12.82 kg? I would mostly be riding rough cyclocross races and XC races. I would be purchasing a large frame size. <Q> Breaking the rules with a kind-of non-answer and personal opinion, but... 1) <S> Mountain bikes <S> should be heavier than a cyclocross bike. <S> It's got a suspension fork and frame and wheels need to be beefier to handle bigger loads and impacts. <S> 2) Don't buy a bike with a plan replace major components. <S> Just buy the bike that meets your needs in the first place (in this case a bike lighter than 12kg out of the box). <S> Doing so will be much, much cheaper than swapping out parts. <S> Another way of stating (2) is: there is only one component you need to swap out for a lighter alternative - the bike itself. <S> I note the higher level <S> SC Highball S hits your weight goal. <A> Bontrager's Law states parts can be light weight, durable, or inexpensive <S> you only get to pick two characteristics. <S> The only time it makes monetary sense to replace a part with a lighter one is if the component has failed. <S> If you think 3kg. will make a difference between winning and losing try this experiment. <S> Ride a timed course while carrying 2 full water bottles (approx. 1.5 kg) . <S> Then ride the same timed course with out the bottles. <S> Is the time difference greater than the time difference of the rider who finished before you. <S> My point is that for the most elite athletes 3kg can be the difference between placing 1st or 15th. <S> For most of us our times will vary more from conditioning variables than 3kg of weight. <A> To answer the question, you'd change the fork and wheels, probably the seat post. <S> Beyond that, you work down the list of diminishing returns through group set, going tubeless, bars, removing rotor bolts (!!) <S> etc. <S> until you get to <10kg. <S> This would take a lot of money for exotic parts. <S> However, I think you've chosen the wrong bike. <S> The Chameleon is not necessarily designed for <10kg XC racing. <A> I own a 2018 chameleon. <S> The frame is light. <S> You could also get carbon bars and a carbon seatpost. <S> It would be expensive and sort of silly.
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You could save weight on the wheelset with carbon hoops, lighter tires, lighter cassette. As others have noted, you're better off looking at the Highball, which is more XC than aggressive/trail.
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Would a recumbent bike be allowed at an ultra endurance event? & Why is no one using one? When I look at ultra-endurance races, for example, https://www.transcontinental.cc/ I always think two things: Wow! I want to do this This is ideal for a recumbent bike! So, I wonder: Would this be allowed? I kind of assume there is no rule forbidding it so: Why is not everyone doing this? Recumbents are a lot more comfortable for long distance and at least in the flat they are a lot faster, two. Rules for the transcontinental: Ride from start to finish via controls listed here No third party support, resupply or lodgings No drafting (other than with pairs partner) All forward travel must be self powered Travel by ferries only by approved routes All riders must maintain evidence of their ride Inactive for 2+ days without contact = scratch No insurance, no helmet, no lights = scratch Riders must know and obey local traffic laws Ride in the spirit of self reliance & equal opportunity <Q> The TCR is a race (strictly speaking a time trial). <S> In that specific case, Wikipedia states that recumbents and tandems are not allowed (no citation is given). <S> I suspect that races will either say that or have a separate category (as is the case for the race across America . <S> I can't find a definitive answer for the Race ACross Europe as the you appear to have to sign up to get the rule book, but I have found implications that they are allowed. <S> For the more generic events in your title (of which there are many more), the case is likely to be more permissive. <S> The TransOz (certificate error) for example, is run under Audax Australia rules, which state "A rider <S> may ride any type of cycle on a ride <S> provided it <S> is only capable of being propelled solely by human effort and complies with the road rules <S> * . <S> " <S> Many such events (1200km and above) are listed by the Randonneurs Mondiaux . <S> Wikipedia has a note of interest in the article on Ultra-distance cycling (the admittedly vague definition there includes much shorter rides than those in the question, right down to the sort of distances I ride). <S> "There are no longer any true ultra-distance bike races (i.e., that are longer than 300 kilometres (190 mi)) that are affiliated with cycling's main governing body, the UCI" <S> so we can't really blame the UCI directly for the lack of recumbents on such rides. <S> The oldest ultra-distance cycling event ( Paris-Brest-Paris definitely allows them. <S> This isn't technically a race any more, but first place finisher is a prestigious position. <S> * <S> From other context on the site, this seems to be referring to local law for road usage, rather than, e.g., the UCI rules for road bike races (which would forbid recumbents). <A> That said I can see a few reasons why recumbents are not favored for ultra-endurance events: <S> but I feel like there are less ways to stretch and reposition yourself while still riding. <S> Endurance riders love a variety of positions (on the drops, on the hoods, on the aero bars, out of the saddle, etc) so that their body doesn't get sore and stiff with hours and hours in the saddle <A> The recumbent cycles are mostly taking part in different categories. <S> Fully faired (or enclosed,) <S> tail fairing, <S> no fairing at all. <S> Some will also have different categories for bikes and trikes, children, seniors, new riders and whatever else they can think up to get more people joining in. <S> To find the events you will need to search for recumbent races or long distance events or whatever, as long as you include recumbent or the local name for it. <S> I have never joined in and only read about races in 'special bicycle' magazines and online , so <S> I know they exist <S> but I do not know many details. <S> There are more links , some in Dutch , the ones I picked for here are random ones out of a search Paris-Brest-Paris Recumbent. <S> If you know the name of other endurance events it is likely the best to search on those as well. <S> As far as I understand recumbents were banned from races because they were too efficient on the flat and downward bits, giving the riders an advantage. <S> But I also think that mixing bikes of different heights in close run busy groups is not really safe. <A> #TCRNo4 Race information, Issue 1 and TCRNo5 Race Manual, Issue 2 say: Tandems and Recumbents and other out of class machines <S> will not be classified on GC <S> (General Classification) unless they allow a rider to compete on par with the efforts of other abled body riders where they would not normally be able to do so. <S> Where registrations for the race exceed capacity riders <S> we will not be able to accept riders who cannot be classified on GC. <S> My understanding is that the TCR is always full. <S> So Bents and tandems are out.
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There are endurance rides specifically for recumbent cycles, sometimes alongside sit-up bikes and sometimes 'bents only. I don't see anything in the TCR that expressly forbids the use of recumbents but it would be worth reaching out to the organizers to make sure. Weight - recumbents aren't inherently heavier, but cost more at the same weight range and performance due to their novelty Cargo - nimble, fast recumbents sacrifice cargo capacity and don't benefit from the boom of bikepacking bags Maintenance - 700c wheels, tires, etc are widely available throughout the world while recumbents often use non-standard wheel sizes Position - I've not had the chance to ride a recumbent
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