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Remove bearing cartridge on a Formula RX-142 hub I am trying to replace the free hub side bearing cartridge on this Formula RX-142 rear hub. It came stock on my 2018 Fuji Jari 1.7 and was not available after market and I can’t get docs on it. Do I just push forcefully from the opposite side to force the cartridge out? I’m trying to avoid needing to buy a new hub and wheel set so I don’t want to damage the hub. Update: here’s a better direct view <Q> Ideally you'll need a blind bearing puller to extract the bearing, most decent bike shops should have one handy. <S> There doesn't appear to be anything preventing removal of the bearing, so the indents are not for bearing extraction. <S> The tooling indents are most likely for the freehub mechanism removal. <S> You may have to remove the freehub if you choose to go with the hammer/punch technique; they're not always easy to undo, as most designs tighten under pedalling forces. <A> Found a drawing of the hub. <S> Hope <S> this helps. <A> Based on the second photo, it looks like a threadded retainer ring of some sort. <S> Perhaps a park FR2 or similar would fit it ? <S> from <S> https://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-2 <S> You might also be able to use some sort of 2-pin spanner to engage the slots and rotate it.
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If you're lucky you can get in from the back of the bearing and simply punch it out with a hammer and punch, as bearings are simply a press fit.
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What features should I look for when buying bib tights? I want to buy a new set of bib tights for cold weather biking, but there are many choices and variations and huge variations in price. What qualities should I look for - e.g. fabric, padded insert, straps, back material, water resistance. Some have a section of material on the back but would these models only be for more extreme cold weather riding? I consider cold to be 5 degrees celcius to -5. Extreme cold -5 and lower. Majority of my cold weather riding is not extreme. <Q> But for me (a skinny 30 something riding in Scotland where winter is typically -5 to +5°C): Fabric: Generally <S> a thick 'roubaix' style brushed lycra for warmth. <S> Windproof fabrics tend to be less flexible/comfortable <S> and I would only use them in extreme cold weather. <S> Padded: <S> No. <S> You can wear your existing shorts under non padded tights. <S> If they have their own pad, they need to be washed every use, without a pad the tights can be re-worn after some rides. <S> Straps: Personal preference. <S> Some prefer the higher waistline and extra material for warmth. <S> Personally I prefer easier natural breaks as riding in very cold conditions <S> makes them a more regular occurrence. <S> Water resistance: <S> I find DWR treatment an amazingly good feature on tights, with splashes from puddles just bouncing off, keeping you much drier and warmer. <S> Softshell type materials (which are also usually coated) will be even more water resistant, but have their own drawbacks (covered above). <A> Additional points to complement Andy's answer. <S> Length - enough of it <S> so your ankle cuffs are lower than the top of any shoe covers you wear. <S> Otherwise that strip of exposed ankle skin is going to get very cold. <S> Fit. <S> I have several pairs of tights/pants, and the looser they are the worse they are. <S> They should be quite snug around your legs all the way down, but especially so at the upper thigh. <S> Storage - very few bike pants have any sort of pockets. <S> Personally I wear my normal pants over top of the tights, which gives me a belt and pockets for keys and wallet and cellphone. <S> My warmest tights are almost furred on the inside, and are significantly warm. <S> But they were very cheap, have poor fit and zero water resistance, and minimal wind resistance. <S> I've also worn tights under waterproof overtrousers, and this can work well or can parboil you while riding. <S> YMMV, so try and have several options for different levels of weather. <A> Stirrups or non-stirrups. <S> They prevent the tights from riding up your lower leg. <S> They also prevent you from putting the bottom of the tights over the top of any boots, shoes, or shoecovers you may be wearing. <S> Putting the lower end of the tights over the top of whatever is on your feet is a useful means of delaying your footware from filling with water when it's wet outside (note <S> I said "delaying" and not "preventing"...). <A> Medium weight wool is good for me from 0-12°C. <S> You'll want zippers down around the ankles to facilitate removal with your shoes on. <S> It's also useful to have a rack and bungee cords for extra layers -- either carrying a little extra in case the weather goes sour, or for the layers you take off as the weather improves.
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Wool is quite breathable and helps you stay warm when you inevitably get damp. You also want minimal friction between any skin in the crotch and genitals, and your legs, specifically the inner thigh. This is a somewhat subjective topic as everyone has their own personal preferences. Some tights have stirrups - strips that go from one side of your ankle, underneath your foot, and to the other side of your ankle. I'd like to suggest wool tights instead of Lycra.
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Since hybrid bikes may be a compromise with no benefits, why are they still often preferred for commuting instead of drop bar bikes? Since hybrid bikes may be a compromise with no benefits, why are they still often preferred for commuting instead of drop bar bikes? According to at least one opinion, hybrids are a compromise with no benefits. What is the downside to me purchasing a road bike instead of a hybrid? Using drops bars instead can make you a few mph faster because the posture makes it more aerodynamic. I felt that my road bike with a pannier was faster than my hybrid bike without it! It seems like a lot of cycling commuters I see are missing out. My city's pretty bike friendly. From what I've read, bikes with drop bars can be comfortable, be affordable, have wider tires, have fenders, and carry panniers. Some of those features are more common in cyclocross and touring bikes than road bikes. Interestingly, people find that drop bars make the bike more comfortable for longer distances. Often, when there's discomfort, bike fit or changing the posture or pedalling form is recommended. If the rider isn't used to such a low posture, the stem could be raised. It's possible to get a used bike with a drop bar at a reasonable price. If a faster bike makes you drive less, you might save more even if you had to pay more for a faster bike and its parts. It's possible to get bikes that have eyelets for mounting racks for panniers, and fenders. If they don't have them, it's possible to get adapters so that they could be mounted. Another option is bikepacking bags. So far, the only advantages of hybrid bikes that I know of are peripheral vision and braking power. In bike friendly cities, they shouldn't be as much of an issue. <Q> Simply, I reject the premise of your question and I'm sure I'm not alone. <S> I say that as someone who has a tourer and a hybrid, and commutes on both - the speed difference is much less than the variability in traffic volumes. <S> In practical commuting conditions you're rarely aero-limited <S> anyway, rather it's the speed of traffic, and to a lesser extent the acceleration. <S> The extra visibility from the more upright position can mean getting away from a junction a touch sooner than in a lower position. <S> The biggest aero benefit from drop bars is when riding in the drops - and you don't often see people commuting in the drops. <S> That position is much more useful for sustained effort than the typical stop-start commute. <S> Hybrids generally have a sufficiently forgiving fit that you can buy nominally the right size, get the saddle height right and go. <S> No hassle, no need to be particularly flexible. <A> You are wrong that hybrid style bicycles have no advantages over drop bar road bikes. <S> You kind-of invalidated your premise by saying hybrids are a compromise , which means by definition certain beneficial features have been chosen over others in order to obtain a desired result. <S> In fact all bike styles are a design compromise. <S> Compared to a road bike hybrids trade mass, speed and efficiency for comfort, control, safety and and affordability. <S> A more upright riding position is more comfortable for casual, infrequent cyclists and offers better visibility and control. <S> Flat, wider bars also provide more control and position the brake levers more naturally to hand. <S> Flat bar frames also position the front wheel relatively further forward which helps prevent the rider going over the bars under hard braking. <A> I'm a bike shop employee of five years, and I've been a bike commuter for ten. <S> So why buy a hybrid? <S> Because they start off at half the price of a road bike. <S> Basic mountain components are dirt-cheap compared to road parts, and the frames usually use cheaper aluminum and forgo carbon forks. <S> A lot of our customers looking to commute are college students on a limited budget, so price is definitely a factor. <A> The hybrid I use to get around town and short distances: has dynamo lights a rack with no risk of heel strike <S> wide mudguards <S> 35mm tyres a chainguard triple chainring & mtb gear ratios allowing me to tow a heavily laden trailer up steep hills. <S> very easy to hop and <S> just ride wearing anything including a suit. <S> Reassuring in icy conditions <S> Whilst you could rig up a drop bar bike to have all that stuff, <S> the ones you get "off-the-shelf" are typically touring bikes with a higher price point in most shops due to being a fairly niche product (unfortunately!). <S> Also - the vast majority of people don't suffer from an n+1 mentality. <S> They own a bike. <S> In the probably rare instance that they want to go on a leisurely family outing with the bikes, a hybrid/mtb fits the bill. <A> A hybrid is more of a all-rounder workhorse. <S> Besides I imagine not everybody likes dropbars. <S> For as long as there is demand, manufacturers will keep making them. <S> Otherwise a rhetorical question, which really has no answer, imho. <A> I too have a bunch of bikes, including both a race-style road bike and an upright bike. <S> The upright was actually my nineties road bike; I put fenders and upright bars on it, originally to have a rain bike. <S> It's essentially a hybrid. <S> I've commuted 5 miles each way to and from work for over a decade. <S> With that context <S> I'll say, the rain bike has become my daily commuter <S> and I much prefer it. <S> I don't really care if my commute takes 90 seconds longer. <S> I'd rather have all the dorky commute bike conveniences--fenders <S> in case it rains (often hard to fit on road bikes), a rack <S> so I don't have to wear a backpack and am less sweaty, an upright posture to able to better see traffic and pedestrians. <S> Hybrids also typically have room for wider tires, which are less likely to get stuck in ruts--I live in San Francisco, which has lots of train tracks. <S> It's just more chill to ride. <S> In short, hybrids are preferred for commuting because they have many benefits.
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In general, a modern gravel or cyclocross bike is more efficient, more versatile, and just as or more comfortable as a hybrid (when fit properly). Most commuters won't have heard of the concept of having your bike fitted properly, and would rightly have no interest in it.
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What mistake might I have made while truing this wheel? I bought a spoke wrench and tried to true up a wheel (for a heavier rider 220+ lbs.) However, as soon as they got on, there was a chinking noise, and the brake rub I had just fixed resumed (albeit slightly.) I used the motion of the brake pad (I had one pad rubbing on the rim) as the stand. There was still a slight hop in it. I wasn't systematic, but, whenever there was too much deviation in one spot I would tighten or loosen the spokes a few times until it was fairly straight. Does anyone know the most likely error in my process? Thanks. <Q> Wheel truing is an iterative process. <S> The "chinking" noise is where the spokes cross <S> and they are moving relative to the other one. <S> The fix is to stress the wheel sideways somewhat, by: <S> Gently laying it on the ground and press opposite sides of the rim Ride it a little Grab pairs of spokes in your hands and give them a solid squeeze. <S> ... <S> and then to continue with the truing. <S> You also want to check wobble, vertical displacement, and spoke tension. <S> Alternate around, working on the worst thing to make it better but not perfect. <S> There's little point in fixing one area of the rim perfect, then adjusting another bit which puts the first bit out of whack. <S> Another gotcha with using the brake pads as a truing reference is that the rim may not be consistent width. <S> A rim that has taken an impact may be bulging or widened, which can put your measurements off. <S> Truing with the tyre on can also make it harder to get that very last bit out. <S> For a quick improvement its fine, but to do a really nice wheel you want the tyre/tube off. <S> Some people will even remove the rim tape. <A> Mainly it's a process, not an action. <S> You need to slowly true the wheel, finding the high/low spot and tightening the appropriate spoke about a half turn at a time, then checking again. <S> Normally you will just tighten, not loosen, and usually, for a reasonably severe warp, you'll want to tighten several spokes, not just one. <A> If I understand correctly - once you mounted the wheels and started riding, there was noise? <S> That means either spoke twist unwinding (ping sounds), or loose spokes moving and rubbing each other (more of a creaking sound). <S> Wheel building (and truing) is a simple, straight forward process, but it needs to be done step by step, with incremental adjustments. <S> Being an experienced mechanic, I still have problems when trying to "just touch up" a wheel that has spoke tension highly off ballance on several spokes - it's often quicker to loosen them all and "start from the top". <S> Your current wheel(s) might be such a case as well. <S> Best answer I can think of is recommending this book . <S> It's relatively cheap. <S> Easy to read, short. <S> Has all the DIY advice (building your truing stand, nipple driver etc - anything but a spoke key is explained how to make on a cheap). <S> It's among the best books that explain the topic - <S> so you know what you're doing <S> and it's really easy after that. <S> Not selling the book, nor getting any commision from the sales. <S> I also made a video explaining the process, in detail (not the best sound - synced to Tarzan English :) - <S> but it's free ).
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I'm guessing you trued the wheel but the spoke tension had not been relieved - and when it did relax, the rim went a little more out of true.
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Is a tyre with sideways bulge going to cause damage to the rim or the hub or the axle? My Schwalbe Marathon plus tour 26'' x 2.0 has a sideways bulge (both rear and front). In between the 2 tyres and tube there is a anti puncture strip. The rim seems not to be the problem. I think the strip is the cause of the tyre's sideways movement. The tyre is already tight/difficult to mount. With the strip mounting is even harder. Will such a bulge / sideways movement eventually (i.e. in the long term) cause damage (e.g. by bending) the rim, hub, axel, or bearings ? I am interested in the consequences of this sideways movement not how to fix it. Update The bulge is not pronounced. It is at a single spot. I see it when looking down on the tyre (bicycle is flipped over and resting on saddle). When spinning the wheel the tyre suddenly moves right then left (wobble). This happens over 10degrees arc. I cannot determine the tyre pressure. I've pumped the tyre hard - my guess 3bar. I used soapy water between the rim and tyre. <Q> I can't say 100%, and full caution etc that if it's bulging that has to do with casing failure/damage or installation error <S> then you should stop riding it, but it sounds like it's probably distortion caused by imperfections at the casing seam. <S> Marathons, for everything nice about them, are a little notorious for this. <S> Schwalbe will generally warranty particularly bad ones, which if you can feel it clearly while riding I would say these are. <S> At times I've seen a lot of them that needed to be sent back for reasons much like you describe, suggesting a QC step getting missed or a machine not working right or the like. <S> As the incidence of the problem has seemed high during certain time periods, it doesn't strike me as unusual to have two tires with it, and in fact that both tires have the issue suggests it's the seam rather than casing damage. <S> You can usually confirm that it's happening at the seam by examining the tire to see the look of the fabric layer under the rubber, or inside if you have the tire off, then following around to where you see that pattern disrupted, stacked double for a small bit, etc. <S> I've speculated that the kind of left-to-right diagonal distortion you describe is caused by something along the lines of the cuts of material not being square or the seams not putting them in a square orientation. <S> Riding the tires like this won't typically hurt anything except perhaps your enjoyment and steering control. <S> It won't affect the tube, rim, hub, etc. <S> Also, the distortion by itself from messy seams usually doesn't imply any inability of the casing to constrain the tube. <S> If you're using rim brakes then you'd want to make sure the distortion isn't causing rub between the tire and pads or brake arms. <S> And you also want to make sure the bulge isn't causing that spot to get close enough to the frame/fork to cause rubbing or clearance too tight to allow for some debris build up. <A> Incomplete answer: <S> A bulge in the sidewall is potentially a sign of a weakness, where something allows that point to stretch under pressure. <S> A weakness could lead to a blowout or a sudden peeling off the rim. <S> A bulge can also rub on things - rim brakes are likely to rub most, but even if you have hub-brakes then the next candidates are chain/seat stays, or kickstands. <S> Again rubbing leads to slower harder rides, and eventually sidewall blowouts. <S> If its an installation error, then there are a lot of causes: could be tube caught under the bead, and inflation lifts it a bit <S> a bead may have failed to seat in the rim right because of damage or obstruction from the rim tape <S> None of this explains the "left-then-right" description in the original question. <S> More info needed please. <A> A small uneveness in the line of the tire is usually not a problem, and I've never managed to mount a tire without such a small uneveness. <S> As long as the bead is solidly seated within the rim all around the tire, you are fine. <S> That said, if you are riding the Marathon Plus, you probably won't need an anti-puncture strip. <S> Unless the road conditions in your area are significantly worse than mine, it's simply not worth the hassle. <S> From my experience, you don't have to expect punctures more frequent than once every 10000km with that tire; I've only once managed to find a piece of glass that was large enough to cut through my Marathon <S> Plus.
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If your tubes are too long for the rim, then the excess material could fold and cause bulges and failure to seat the bead. So, if the uneveness is really due to the anti-puncture strip, you may want to try without it.
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What are the disadvantages of having an old, worn cogset? I'm always a little wary of people telling me I should replace things on my bicycle that aren't broken. Because of this, I'd like to know details and symptoms about what happens if I ride my bike with an older, worn cogset? Do I lose efficiency? How much? Is there higher potential for breakage? Do my gears skip? FYI, the answer to this question should be about the same as answering these similar questions: "What are the benefits of replacing an older, worn cogset?" "Whatsymptoms will my bike exhibit that means I have to replace mycogset/casset/sprocket?" <Q> As a chain wears out, the distance between links gets bigger <S> (this is what chain wear tools measure). <S> As this is happening, the chain will grind the cogs to match the worn chain (distance between teeth increases). <S> This is why your gears might not feel so bad, but then they get much worse when you put on a new chain. <S> The new chain's links do not line up with the teeth on the cogs. <S> This will be noticeable in a few ways depending on how worn the cogs are. <S> First is the noise coming the drivetrain and no amount of lube will silence it. <S> The next one will be shifting performance as you find the chain getting stuck on a cog more often. <S> This last one can actually be a safety hazard as you might fall if you are out of the saddle pushing, then suddenly the drivetrain lets go (it feels similar to a broken chain when it happens). <S> Based on this, you might think that it's a good idea to keep the worn chain on for as long as possible, but that will lead to much faster wear on other components as well. <S> Chainrings and jockey wheels rarely need replacing on a well-maintained drivetrain, but if the chain is too worn, then it will grind into these just like the cogs, making it a much more expensive replacement. <S> This ensures that you won't put excessive wear on the chainrings and jockey wheels. <S> I prefer to replace my chain at 0.75% which allows me to keep the cassette for about 5-6 chains. <S> This is cheaper for me since I use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes, but if you're using more entry level gear, then it's usuallly cheaper to wear them out together and replace them both at once. <A> I've done the opposite to a lot of riders - I had a chainset of unknown mileage and rather than guess, I simply rode the whole thing into the ground. <S> Shifting got progressively worse over time, but it wasn't linear. <S> There were certain gear combinations that slipped more under normal load, and others that slipped under heavy load. <S> Climbing a grade became risky, a good steep ramp could see me slip. <S> So I learned that climbing seated (or very close to the saddle) was a wise plan. <S> Toward the end, the gears could slip when taking off from stopped, or when putting in some power to accelerate. <S> At this time I changed everything, chain, cassette, chainring, inner/outer cables, and both jockey wheels. <S> Even though the old cassette was ultegra and other parts were 105, replacing with the lowest cost (tiagra?) <S> components was a phenomenal upgrade in shifting accuracy and snappiness. <S> I also changed brake pads and cables, and bartape because the old stuff was a bit thin and didn't survive removal. <S> There's no gain to replacing only the chain if its already significantly elongated. <S> The cassette will be worn to suit, so all you do is get worse shifting and drastically accelerate the wear of your new chain. <A> If your sprockets are worn your chain is probably worn too. <S> A worn drivetrain will suffer from poor shift shifting and with advanced wear, the chain skipping over the sprockets. <S> A worn chain is also more likely to break. <S> A worn drivetrain will definitely be less efficient although I can't point you to anything that quantifies how much. <S> How worn you can let the drivetrain really depends on what kind of riding you are doing. <S> If you are riding casually and don't care how fast you go you will be able to tolerate more wear. <A> Sloppier shifting, faster chain wear. <S> In extreme cases you'll get chain skipping. <A> it's a drag to replace things that are just old , but being an old dog myself, keeping things up to date makes riding easier and more fun, no skipping of the chain which is so annoying. <S> I live in a city where the rain and grit are murder on my chain and cassettes. <S> My whole bike really. <S> The filth on my bike every week is amazing. <S> I find getting my bike tuned each spring and fall just part of the small cost of keeping my bike shops going. <S> I also replace pieces like the chain and the cassette which I can't do (am no good at this) but it makes my girl run so much better. <S> I don't see it as a cost, but as an investment for both of us.
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If the cogs are extremely worn, you'll then get slippage as the chain slides forward over the cog (staying on the same cog, not shifting) when you put pressure on the pedals. Many people replace their cassette and chain at the same time once the chain length is 1% longer than when new. So in summary - wear is a gradual degradation process that you might not notice over time.
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Panniers and handlebar pack I am planning to tour and would prefer highly visible panniers and handlebar packs. Also waterproof. Do racks come with panniers? Suggested brands please? <Q> Racks generally do not come paired with panniers, although there are some exceptions. <S> There are some high-vis panniers out there, and some that have reflective patches. <S> We generally avoid specific product recommendations here on bicycles.se, but Ortlieb is a standby pannier maker. <A> Racks and panniers are separate items. <S> Buy the best waterproof panniers you can. <S> A small pocket on the outside for tools, oil, a pump and a tube is always nice. <S> If you are travelling you want fully waterproof. <S> They will likely cost $200 each, give or take. <S> Don't scrimp on this item. <S> Remember though, watch the sizing. <S> They can get heavy when filled. <S> Only you will know how much you can carry up the hills. <A> Did a 500mile tour in college with panniers. <S> I just shopped at the local outfitters store. <S> It's not a specific product but the racks I used had Black- in the name. <S> Honestly can't remember the full name. <S> You want a solid rack fit so no wobblies, I appreciated the mount system to my fork/frame braze-ons. <S> Don't skimp on rack quality, you want a light frame to mount, but a firm metal. <S> Oh, n be friends with the local mechanic, you might need to swap out longer allen bolts for same braze-on hole fender/rack mounting. <S> I'm not ashamed to have been bribed with pizza as a wrench turner <S> ;D... <S> The panniers I had hooked on the top and had an attached bungee looped system on bottom to attach, EZ off/on to pack into a tent n secure. <S> My panniers were purple, but I put reflectors, red blinky lights and high viz reflective tape on them too. <S> LOLz, I get your waterproof idea, we had rain in August at the end of summer on South Pacific coast, go figure. <S> Weather similar to the Hawaiian Islands, blue skies, then mild rainfall and unprepared for it. <S> Two words, plastic bags... <S> Made ponchos n wrapped everything we didn't want wet. <S> Don't forget fenders, actually liked this the best, no butt skid marks! <S> Oh, n test run everything weighted with books n junk a bit, then look for hardware coming loose before the ride. <S> Happy n safe trails to you!
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Waterproof panniers are widely available.
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How tight should I screw my thru-axles? I have a new road bike with thru axle and disc brakes (Ultegra). I noticed that depending on the how tight I screw the axle in the frame, the brake disc will be closer to either side of the brake pads. I didn't pay attention at first, so now the rear left pad is much more worn that the right one. Is there a way to find the perfect torque to make sure that the disc is perfectly centered? <Q> You should screw your through axle according to the manufacturer's specified torque value range. <S> The torque applied to the axle is not meant to be used for adjusting relative brake/disc position, even if you observe such effect. <S> Keeping the axle under-torqued is dangerous, and over-torquing it might damage the fork/frame dropouts. <S> A proper solution would be to adjust the position of the brake caliper itself relative to the disc. <S> Loosen both bolts that attach the caliper to the fork/frame. <S> Do not unscrew them too much; you should just be able to wobble the caliper by hand. <S> Squeeze the brake lever so that both pads hug the disc. <S> If the pads were symmetric, then the caliper would become centered relative to the disc. <S> In your case, you should probably do this with a new pair of pads. <S> Keeping the lever pressed (by using a rubber band, rope etc.), tighten the caliper bolts so that the caliper will stay in the new position. <S> Make sure to tighten these bolts to a proper torque as well (typically in a range 7-9 N×m, but it may be different) <S> Now, when you release the brake lever, the distance between pads and disc surfaces will be equal (given that both pads move at the same rate, of course). <A> I suspect a little that it was loose at one point <S> and there won't be much movement of the brake within the thru-axle's window of "good" torque values. <S> In other words, the range given for allen-headed "stealth" type thru axles, the only type that readily take a torque wrench, is usually about 9-13Nm, and I doubt there would be movement of the brake without about that range. <S> Torque it so that it's firmly bottomed out <S> and you can feel there's heavy resistance to further preloading of the threads. <S> Make sure there's some grease on the threads to make it easier to sense what's going on. <S> The nature of big coarse aluminum threads actually makes it pretty clear to tell through wrench feel when you've reached the "bottomed out" point. <S> If it's still vague and you're having trouble with the brake wanting to move, that's unfortunate. <S> Make sure the hub isn't missing any hardware and that any removable bits of the dropouts are tight. <S> Finally, you can use a marker to make an index mark to set the rotational position of the axle to every time. <S> For example, on the drive side where the end of the axle is visible when installed, you could draw a line across its face and onto the dropouts. <S> You still have to make sure it's tight when you reinstall it in case <S> something shifts/wears, but for the most part that should make it easy to reproduce the "adjustment." <A> I also have seen this problem when the axle tube is warped/bent.. <S> To check , when wheel is in position , before it is tightened , rotate the axle tube while observing the disc alignment to brake pads and watch for changes in the gap <S> s.
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One possible way to achieve that: Screw the wheel's axle to manufacturer's recommended torque.
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How do I know what brake rotors to get for my bike? In the next month or so I plan on getting the 2019 Trek Crockett 5 as a cyclocross/road bike. I will also be getting some nicer road wheels for the bike so I can swap out the wheels whenever needed. Of course I plan on getting the same cassette for the rear wheel, but I was wondering about the brake rotors. On Trek's site it says the brakeset is "TRP Spyre mechanical disc" and in the close up of the brake rotors it says "160-35" on the rotor. I'm assuming this means they are 160mm rotors, but I don't know if I need to get the exact same discs that come with the bike or if I can just get any 160mm rotors. Here's the link to the bike for more info: https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/cyclocross-bikes/crockett/crockett-5-disc/p/23092/?colorCode=black Thanks! <Q> TR160-35 is the model number. <S> They are 160mm Centerlock rotors. <S> If your new wheels have Centerlock hubs, then you need either centerlock rotors or adaptors. <S> If the wheels are 6-bolt, then you need 6-bolt rotors. <A> As you already noted, rotor diameter should be the same. <S> The rotors should not necessarily be the same, but hub distance and rotor thickness tolerances <S> might (or not) cause brake rub after swapping wheels, but that can be adressed by caliper position ( <S> adjusted so no rub happens with both wheelsets) or shims between rotor and hub. <A> In addition some rotors claim not to be suitable for metal pads, but all seem to be suitable for organic pads. <S> This is only an issue if you run metal pads.
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There are two rotor interface types , you need to get something that matches hubs on the new wheelset. Either way you'll want 160mm rotors and to keep it easy, I'd stick with Tektro rotors for this system.
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What kind of tool will loosen this nut holding a chainwheel on a one piece crank? Can someone tell me how to remove this nut that is holding the chainwheel in place on this one piece crank? In the picture below, the red arrows are pointing to three slots in the nut that a tool would fit into to remove the nut. Is there a name for a too like that? I looked on the park tools web site but I didn't see anything. Is there a way to loosen it without having to buy a specialized tool? Thanks in advance, <Q> The nut is holding the inner race of the bottom bracket bearing. <S> A web search with "bottom bracket" and "hook spanner" produces a couple of hits. <S> (For instance, the tool mentioned by Klaster in the comments.) <S> You may use a vernier caliper to determine the dimensions of your nut and find the right tool for you. <A> Another option is to clamp the lower crank in a vice and use a hammer and brass drift into the three notches. <S> Downside, heavy blows are likely to distort the metal, so use more but gentler taps. <S> A smaller hammer helps with control. <S> This is a one-piece crank, so they're not exactly known for having fine tolerances. <A> They come in various sizes. <S> I think you need something like this: hook spanner
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Such a tool may be called hook spanner.
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Suspension seatpost for mountain biking? I've seen several seatposts on the market with suspension built into them such as the Thudbuster, Redshift, and Kinect and was wondering if anyone is using one for mountain biking? Is it worth the money and does it improve the ride quality? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks! <Q> It is more common for modern mountainbikers to use adjustable, or dropper posts, rather than suspension posts, both on hardtail and full suspension bikes. <S> The difference is that a dropper post's length can be dynamically varied with a lever press, but without pressing it there is no spring action what so ever. <S> This way, the rider's center of gravity can be lowered on rough and steep descents, but pedaling efficiency can be returned back whenever needed at the post's full extension. <S> In contrast, a suspension post has a fixed length and saddle position oscillating around that length with help of a spring of some sort. <S> It is typically used for comfort riding or touring long distances on rough roads. <S> No modern high-grade modern mountain bike known to me comes with a suspension post, but a lot come with a dropper post. <S> Is it worth the money <S> It is only for you to decide. <S> does it improve the ride quality? <S> Having a bit of something to smooth road chatter is always welcome. <S> Think about the trade-offs however: higher weight, higher cost, need for maintenance, and occasional return spring action smashing the saddle into your crotch (a spring saves kinetic energy only to give it back later). <S> For mountain biking, where road chatter is not an issue, I would always prefer a dropper or even a classic rigid seat post to a suspension post. <S> For a 100+km gravel road ride, I would go with a suspension post. <S> I want also to add that a suspension post is likely redundant on a full suspension MTB because there already is a spring at the rear of the bike that should provide similar, if not that pronounced, effect. <S> For hardtails, modern frame designs attempt to build limited amount of flex into rear parts of frames (seatstays) to fulfill the same purpose of filtering out the road chatter getting to the saddle. <A> The goal of a suspension post is different than that of suspension fork & rear suspension. <S> Suspension fork & rear suspension is to absorb impacts while keeping the wheel in contact with the ground or obstacle, thereby maintaining traction & control. <S> Suspension seatpost is mostly about rider comfort. <S> Don't seem to be as popular as in the past. <A> In recent years we have seen widespread adoption of larger wheel diameters (27.5/29") and high volume tubeless tyres. <S> Fat bikes and 'plus' bikes in particular are known for their plush magic carpet like ride quality with the large low pressure tyres deforming round objects greatly smoothing the ride and providing a surprisingly low rolling resistance off road. <S> 10 years ago I would have been running 26x1.9" tyres at 40psi, and a suspension seatpost would have seemed a great idea. <S> These days i'm running 29x2.2" or 27.5x2.4" at 22psi and 27.5x2.8" at 14psi and even on a hardtail have never even contemplated a suspension seatpost.
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Suspension seatposts have always been a niche product, but in my view are now a niche that is redundant for mountain biking, and perhaps more suited to a gravel bike.
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Roadbike with aluminium wheels in mountains. Is it safe? I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas. I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube? I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :( I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed. <Q> This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. <S> I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. <S> If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex. <A> I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. <S> See the following thread where similar topic is discussed: What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill? <S> Have a look at this article as well: <S> Braking and blowouts The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). <S> Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down. <S> I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether). <S> To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain! <A> There really is nothing to worry about. <S> Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues. <A> So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. <S> However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). <S> (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them) <S> Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick. <S> The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). <S> The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. <S> But the lower 5 km (ca. <S> 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). <S> While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. <S> In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. <S> Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). <S> On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). <S> While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". <S> We also employed water cooling: <S> wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-) <S> (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches) <S> You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not .
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When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues. I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.
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What is the generic name for the gear shifter where you have one trigger for the up shift and another for down shift? I recently bought a bike with new advanced gear shifters where you can shift easily as the shifter has a trigger for the up shift and downshift? I would like to replace the twist shifter in my old bike with these but do not know the generic name for it. So I would like to know the generic name for it so that I can get the old ones replaced at a bike shop. This one comes with integrated brake lever and position indicator <Q> Sounds like an indexed thumb shifter or an indexed pod shifter or a trigger shifter. <S> All three names mean the same kind of thing, though different designs may put the two levers in different places, or may use a button for release. <S> Examples: <S> Shimano Tourney 7 speed <S> TX50 <S> Shimano Altus three position left hand shifter. <S> Integrated <S> Its possible to get shifter/brake levers integrated into one unit. <S> Advantage is that you have fewer mounting bands on your bars, so its a space saver and a small weight saving. <S> Disadvantage is that changing a shifter MAY mean changing the brake lever too. <S> Shimano has a bunch of standards for combination shifter and brake levers, named I-Spec and available in variants called "I-Spec A" which is the original, and "I-Spec B" and "I-Spec II" none of which are inter-compatible . <S> There is nothing wrong with running a separate gear shifter and brake lever, as long as they're both reachable from your grips. <S> From a future-proofing point of view, separate makes a lot of sense. <S> Others <S> These are commonly found on cheap nasty bikes known as BSOs, and are renowned for having a short life. <S> They tend to crack rending them useless. <S> The exception would be the Rohloff grip shifter which is super robust. <S> bar-end shifters - popular with touring riders, and can often run in indexed or friction modes. <S> I find the cable routing looks weird, so its not uncommon to route the cable under the bartape, or even completely internal to the bars. <S> This is a friction shifter, where the position is determined by your skill only. <S> This is a pair of downtube shifters, more common on 80s road bikes. <S> These never really appeared on MTB. <S> Can be mounted on the stem, in which case they're called stem shifters. <S> Finally brifters - the gear change of choice of the drop bar rider. <S> Common on Road bikes and Cyclocross, and gravel. <A> "Trigger shifters" is pretty close to being a standard generic term for them. <S> Basically all English-speaking mechanics would recognize it as meaning the type of shifter and only the type of shifter you describe. <S> Notably, calling these anything with "thumbshifter" in the name is incorrect. <S> " <S> Thumbshifter" refers specifically to flatbar shifters where a lever is rotated around a pivot and keeps its position, as opposed to springing back like trigger shifters do. <S> For better or worse, it's the name we've got for this type; that you also use your thumb on trigger shifters <S> makes it a little confusing. <A> When looking online searching for "flat-bar trigger shifters" will present results with products like you describe. <S> Within any specific bicycle products online shopping site, one can use filters to narrow down the product selection with some of the last, most specific filter options, labelled "flat-bar shifters" or "trigger shifters. <S> " <S> An example of a filtered search would be (homepage of an online store), select (products),(recreation/fitness), (bicycling), (bicycle components), (road bike or mountain bike or trekking or city bike or ALL), (gears, drivetrain), (gear shifters), ( <S> flat bar shiters OR drop bar shifters),. <S> (trigger shifters OR grip shifters OR bar end shifters OR brifters <S> *). <S> *Brifters are a component of road, gravel, or cyclocross bikes which are utilized on drop-bar style handle bars. <S> The levers actuate both the BRakes and shIFT gears depending on the direction the lever is moved. <S> Shimano has a propietary name for their trigger shifters called "RapidFire" and <S> "RapidFire Plus". <S> SRAM simply uses "Trigger Shifter" and their most common models of these have an "X" followed by a number.
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"Rapidfire" or "rapidfire-style," referencing Shimano's name for their shifters of the type, are sometimes used synonymously for trigger shifters along the same lines as V-brake versus linear pull, Frisbee versus flying disc, etc. The grip shift, or revoshift, or many other names.
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Technique for self-adhesive puncture repair patches Is there any special technique for using self-adhesive puncture repair patches? Today, I've had two different tubes fail within a minute of being inflated because the air pressure had split through the glue, effectively forming a little pipe from the puncture out to the edge of the patch. These were both patches that had been on the tube between one and three months, and I've had other patches fail the same way. I figure I've not done anything catastrophically stupid, since the patches haven't been failing immediately. I've followed the instructions on the patches as closely as possible ("Lightly scuff tube with sandpaper. Peel backing from patch and press patch firmly onto tube. Tube must be clean and dry for patch to adhere." – that's it). They're decent quality patches (Park Tool GP-2). I've never had any problems with old-school glue and patches. Is there something I'm missing or are pre-glued patches just useless pieces of excrement? <Q> This kind of failure is basically the reason sticker-type patches have a reputation for not being reliable. <S> Scrupulously sanding the area and getting it as clean as possible (ie, with alcohol or other residue-free solvent, cleaner than anyone can probably get it on the side of the road) wards off the problem but doesn't eliminate it. <S> Sticker type patches are essentially bad products. <S> You can't trust the tube long-term, so you really should change it back out when you get home, because if you don't you'll likely get another flat sooner or later when it fails. <S> Vulcanizing patches are superior. <S> You almost never actually wind up using the vulcanizing kit on the side of the road, and when you do it's no big deal because you've developed good technique. <S> Vulcanizing patches make the tube as reliable as new, so it's fine to leave the tube in there and forget about it. <S> Self-adhesive patches play to peoples' desire for a simple one-step solution, contrasted to how vulcanizing patches do require a degree of technique and care - keeping track of where the puncture is, applying a nice even patch of glue that's the right size and waiting long enough for the it to dry, comprehending at all that you let the glue dry and then apply the patch, handling things carefully so as not to contaminate the patch contact surface or the tube with skin oils, etc. <S> A lot of people running around now just can't and won't jump through those hoops, and in that sense there is a place for self-adhesive patches, but what's unequivocally true about them is they don't save time or hassle once the need to change the tube out again later is factored in. <A> I believe pre-glued patches were always intended to be a temporary fix to get you home. <S> When they first came out on the market I remember explicit warnings that these were not a permanent fix. <S> Waiting for glue to set up on the side of the road is a pain, and these were intended to solve that issue by providing a quick fix to get you moving again. <S> Afterwards you should replace the tube or properly repair the puncture. <S> Once applied these patches are easy to peel off again (a good indicator that they are not permanent fixes). <S> A bit of sandpaper can remove any residual adhesive and as a bonus the surface has now been prepared for gluing with a proper vulcanizing glue and patch. <S> I have always viewed them as an option of last resort when you have run out of tubes and you need to quickly patch a tube so that you can keep going. <A> Since almost all of the other answers (except for Criggie's) seem to focus on telling you that self-adhesive patches are bad, I feel like I have to add an answer that actually focuses on the question (i.e. technique for applying these) <S> ;-) <S> I have only carried self-adhesive patches for about half a year, but never had one fail on me (Lezyne branded, but I doubt that there are major quality differences). <S> From my experience and what I read of reports from failing patches, two things seem most important: <S> Clean and roughen up the area around the puncture, e.g. with the scuffer that is included in most patch kits or a bit of sandpaper. <S> Firmly press on the patch for about half a minute, rubbing a bit from side to side in varying directions. <S> Especially the second part seems to be overlooked quite often; after that, I immediately re-install and inflate the tube. <A> Minor techniques that seem to help. <S> Use an abraider/scratcher around the damaged bit. <S> I have a saw and a coarse file on my leatherman which work well enough. <S> This gives the adhesive somewhere to key into rather than the shiny slickness of the Butyl tube. <S> Then have the tube inflated to about the size it will be inside the tyre, before sticking on the patch. <S> Not swollen up and not loose and floppy. <S> As for all punctures - making the effort to find the cause is a very good idea. <S> Try to not move the tyre relative to the valve-stem hole, and then once you find the hole compare the tube to the wheel to isolate a small area to find the cause of the damage. <A> My primary solution is better tyres. <S> I average something like 5000 – 10 000 km per puncture, or 1 – 2 per year. <S> That's with marathon supremes on the distance bike and marathon plus on the hybrid/commuter. <S> Then I carry a spare tube attached to each bike plus another in my tool kit. <S> I've never needed two spares in a single ride; if I did I'd patch a dead tube using proper patches and vulcanising solution at the next warm dry stop, because I carry a tiny tube of glue and a good supply of patches. <S> Glueless patches ( <S> and I do carry a couple) are an absolute last resort for if I'm out of tubes in the rain - hunched over to keep the rain off, drying the tube on my jersey, and patching is easier with glueless. <S> I tested this approach on a commute a few years ago and it got me home but leaked a little; my only failures with glued patches were caused by not being able to keep them dry. <S> Note that I haven't gone down the tubeless route <S> - I know where I am with tubes and see no compelling reason to change something that works.
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The system of carrying a spare tube and a vulcanizing patch kit, using the patch kit only if you get multiple flats in the same ride (should be a very rare occurrence), and patching your punctured tube when you get home so it can become your spare is popular and time-honored because it works and is cheap. In practice I would never trust them to last more than a few days after application.
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Can I mix brands of chain and missing link If I stick to the same speed (e.g. do not mix say 9 speed and 10 speed), can I mix the brand of chain and missing link safely. For instance, can I use a Shimano missing link on a KMC chain, or should I only use KMC links on KMC chains and SRAM links on SRAM chains? <Q> Shimano recommends their 9 &10 speed chains be reconnected utilizing the specific speed link pin, which inserted with a chain tool. <S> In practice, these can be used multiple times, no problem, but I base this on reading others' assessments not my own experience. <S> Shimano's11 speed system uses a connecting link. <S> Typically bike shops I frequent have KMC, SRAM, and Wipperman (product is called "connex") connecting links to choose from. <S> Connex are a bit more money it appears to me. <S> At any rate, based on the selection, why not stay within same brand for chain and connecting link? <S> Regarding Shimano, I use the replacement link pin but again, no problems have been noted by myself or others when a Shimano chain is joined with a connecting link from SRAM, KMC, or Wipperman. <A> Yes. <S> I've used SRAM and KMC missing links on <S> 9- and 10-speed Shimano chains for years. <S> Shimano missing link <S> Good luck finding those, though... <A> Almost certainly, but do your homework. <S> At 9-speed, Campagnolo and Wippermann chains are slightly wider than the SRAM. <S> So, Wippermann quick link works with Campagnolo but SRAM does not. <S> There are probably combinations with similar issues at 10 and 11 speeds.
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Note that SRAM's 10 speed link is termed "power lock" and is suggested for use "one time only" because of the tighter tolerances present in ten speed systems. In my experience, there has not been any issue, including noise, using KMC's "missing link" or SRAM's "power link." Prices are similar between brands within same speed categories.
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Fix pushchair brake wire with balls at both ends - can my idea work? The problem is with a Jane Trider pushchair so it's not exactly a Bicycles question, I'd love suggestions for a better place to ask this. But all the parts are like on a bike, only they are attached to my daughter’s pram. A short summary is that an unusual wire has snapped, I have a few ideas how to fix it but each idea has an issue with it. The brake is based on separate wires for either wheel and a lever pulling both wires at the same time – please see the photos below. All photos are taken after removing the snapped wire. The original wire is approx. 1mm diameter, the balls are approx. 3mm diameter, and the gap between the two pins in the handle is only a little less than the size of the ball. Each wheel has a fail-safe spring, which pushes a locking bolt into a slot in the wheel unless retracted by the handle. One of the wires has snapped, so I had to remove the spring and bolt and we are down to one braked wheel. I’m not sure why the wire snapped as they really do not carry that much load (not the braking force anyway). I can only think it was fatigue worsened by gradual wear from rubbing on the two silver pins holding the ball in the handle. There is an original replacement available for £25 + £2.99 delivery, which seems a bit steep considering the amount of work then involved in routing the replacement cables. I would much rather spend that money on some tools and replace the wire myself. Below is the solution I came up with together with some specific questions to keep SE rules happy, but if someone has another solution then I would love that too. For the record, one of the questions I have asked myself is whether it snapped at the ball or not; the answer is I can’t tell for sure because I’ve already removed the snapped wire from the black cable, but it probably doesn’t matter as it’s definitely too short to just put a new hook/ball on it. So the best solution I can think of is this: Cut the “first” 50mm from the handle end of a bike brake wire Feed through the two pins in the handle so that the cylinder on the bikewire imitates the original ball Join the remaining part of the old wire – and here is the question in my post, how do I do this? Options include: One or two wire grips or clamps (like shown in the annotated photo below, the orange part is the saddle) – different styles exist but the smallest I can see online are for 3mm wire, way too large. I could make one to imitate how wires are held in brakes and derailleurs, but can’t think what to make it from. A lap splice – but I can’t think of a way to secure the two wires other than by super gluing A coupler of this sort used for rebar – but I can’t find any for 1mm wire A swage crimp – but I’m not convinced the crimps for electric wires have enough grip, and general mechanical ones don’t go down to this size. Can anyone suggest how to overcome the issue with one of the above four options? Or can anyone suggest a better fix? I don’t fancy replacing the entire handle etc. <Q> As the brake system is designed to fail safe, I think you're good to repair it - carefully of course. <S> To crimp-splice the cable is perfectly possible. <S> I found these by searching eBay for wire rope crimp (the word "rope" excludes electrical crimps quite nicely). <S> The 2 mm size should do 1.6 mm cables quite effectively, but if you've got 1.2 cables (as used for bike gears) you might want to get 1 mm crimps as well to see which works better (my daughter's puschair used those). <S> in they look like MTB brake cables). <S> old end <S> crimp crimp old run to brake lever↓ <S> ↓ <S> ↓ <S> ↓ <S> ______ ______O------| <S> |--- ---| <S> |---------//---O <S> ---|______|----------------|______|--- ↑ new bit of cable <S> If there's space I'd double up the crimps on each join, with a few mm gap in between. <S> The crimp tool probably costs more than the manufacturer's spare part, though a cheap crimp tool for electrical joints might work. <S> Alternatively I've been successful on similar parts by using blunt <S> If they're very cheap a file will do, otherwise a grindstone or coarse wet/dry paper. <S> Then squash each crimp twice at 1/3 and 2/3 of its length. <S> Squash them hard and pull-test. <S> If you've got offcuts and spare crimps you can really put a sample join to the test - it should easily take your weight. <S> Once again, if this was a pull-to-stop brake I'd be more cautious, but as it's pull-to-release (by your description) <S> you should be OK. <S> You do however need to plan and test that the repair doesn't even come close to defeating the spring mechanism. <A> A wire swage would be the correct tool for the job. <S> The middle image here demonstrates two ends overlapped and swaged together. <S> Bicycles generally don't do this because bike brakes/gears have a fixed end and a trimmed end which is clamped down under a bolt. <S> Your problems will be finding a swage small enough for the job, and a swage-tool small enough to compress that swage properly. <S> A pliers are the WRONG tool! <S> identifying a part of the cable path that you can get to with the tool making sure there's enough run out in both directions for the wider part of the inner wire to move back and forth without snarling. <S> A chocolate-block style joiner will slip eventually, so don't try and use electrical joiners. <S> This will depend on any surface coating and the metallurgy of the wire and so on. <S> This could be good in addition to swaging, but not as the sole joining solution. <S> But honestly, while 28 UK Pounds is a lot for a wire, it is a part of a brake system and not something you want to risk failure. <S> You have to make the judgement call on whether its worth the piece of mind. <S> And do check the other wire to see if its fraying in the same/similar place. <A> My first idea would be to fabricate a new cable by taking a fresh bicycle brake cable with a barrel on one end and sufficient length, cut it to size, put the housing and make the other barrel using the method presented in the following youtube video: Throttle Cable Solder Repair Tool - Simple Fix! <S> There the author presents a mould made from an old bolt and melts soldering lead to form the barrel. <S> Of course you'll spend more than £25 + £2.99 on the torch, soldering tin, flux, brake cable, etc. <S> but on the upside - the tools remain for the next job and you gain some new skills.
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side cutters - take a cheap pair of wire cutters and remove the cutting edge. You can also use solder bath to affix the barrels at the end of the cables like in the next video: Repairing / Soldering a Motorized Bicycle Cable - Throttle Clutch or Brake You might consider silver-soldering the overlapped wires together. You probably need to splice in a new length of cable unless you can buy a bike cable with the right end (and you might be able to - zooming
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Banged frame: Is it still safe to use? My girlfriend's bicycle was vandalized by a neighbour. It seems like they banged it with a hammer or something right in the middle of the frame. Is this still safe to use? <Q> There's a chance that when a big bump or pothole is hit the top tube will fold and dump the rider face first into the road. <S> Additionally, the head tube probably is not aligned with the seat tube anymore, which means the wheels are misaligned which will negatively affect steering. <A> That frame is definitely not safe to ride anymore. <S> While some steel frames can handle dents pretty well, that is some major damage in what seems to me an aluminium frame. <S> The top tube seems both dented and bent, which likely has affected the steering of the bicycle and also introduces risk of the frame bending inwards under stress. <A> Sorry for that act of vandalism that happened to you. <S> But I'd refrain from using this bicycle any longer. <S> You'd have problems riding it in a straight line because the wheels are certainly misaligned now which could even cause more uncertain behaviour at speed. <S> The other danger could reside in the sudden failure of the compromised top tube of the frame. <S> The only thing you could do, apart from filing a complaint with the police would be to take the bike apart and re-use or sell all the undamaged parts. <A> Not safe, due to buckling That top part of the frame has buckled . <S> As such it has — and I am not exaggerating now — less than one tenth of its design strength. <S> That bike will fold in on itself if you try to use it. <S> Hence, sorry, but that frame is busted for good.
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Unfortunately I think that level of damage with a big dent and buckled top tube will make the bike dangerous to ride. I recommend you don't ride that anymore, start looking for a replacement and see if you can get the person responsible for that to fund it.
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Why does my chain slips when I put pressure on my pedals When I get on my bike and put pressure on my pedals or stand up and pedal, my chain slips. I want to know what the problem is so I can fix it myself as I don’t have a lot of money for a bike shop to fix it. Any help would be appreciated. My whole chain slips when I put pressure on my mountain bike's pedals. I have a 3 speed at front and 7 speed on the rear. Bike is approximately 5/6 years old. it happens on all gear combinations but happens mostly in front 2nd gear. And it steadily happened and got worse over time. Chain has not been replaced. <Q> These are things I have experienced that have caused chain skipping under load: Running a new chain with a worn cassette Rear derailleur out of adjustment <S> Badly worn chainring Freehub engagement problem <S> The last one isn't actually the chain skipping, but it feels similar <A> Another culprit can be a worn front chain ring. <S> I had that problem in the past. <S> Can be checked by looking at the teeth on the chainring to see if they are excessively worn. <A> The two basic possibilities are 1) <S> the chain slipping on the cogs, and 2) the ratchet mechanism in the rear hub slipping. <S> For #2 the hub needs to be serviced. <S> You can do this yourself if you know what you're doing, but it can get tricky. <S> Also, the fine adjustment of the derailers needs to be checked. <S> A good resource for videos on servicing a bike is the Park Tool website . <S> (I'll add that if you got the bike used it's vaguely possible that it has some incompatible components installed.)
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For #1 you need to evaluate the condition (wear) of the chain and cogs, and whether the rear derailer is putting sufficient tension on the chain.
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How do I make Shimano SPD cleat lock into pedal more securely? I bought Shimano SPD pedals and shoes for MTB. They’re great for uphill and straight gnarly sections. There is one problem - when I’m clipped in I have a ton of movement. I have tightened the spring but there is lots of movement so how do I get a tighter feel? <Q> You're probably talking about "float", the way your foot rotates over the pedal. <S> This is considered a feature, not a bug. <S> There are different cleats you can get with different amounts of float; looking around, I do see there are "zero float" cleats that you can get for SPDs, and others with only 4° of float. <S> The spring adjusts your release tension, not your float (I think). <S> After having ridden zero-float pedals for a long time, I'll take all the float I can get. <A> Shimano makes two different SPD cleats for MTB-pedals. <S> One that has only lateral play and another one with vertical play as well. <S> The dual play SM-SH 56 type is meant for casual riding and trekking riders who don't feel too secure with tightly clamped shoes and they are mainly used on roads. <S> They unclip with left and right movement and upwards motion. <S> Those might make you feel insecure on a trail because they permit some upward float before unclipping. <S> The other type SM-SH51 only unclip if you turn the heel sideways, in or out. <S> For both the left and right right freedom is +/- <S> 3 <S> ° As other comments pointed out, tightness meaning the point when the pedals releases the cleat is the only possible adjustment. <S> Float is built-in to lessen the load on the knee and cannot be adjusted. <S> This is a road pedal only feature to be achieved with one of three different types of cleats. <A> If your shoes are actually loose on the pedals i.e. there is play between the shoe and pedal in the vertical or lateral directions, your cleats might not be installed correctly, or you have shims underneath the cleats that are too thick. <S> Check the cleat installation. <S> This moves the cleat further up into the shoe so the sole is held more firmly against the pedal body.
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If you have shims under the cleat, try removing them.
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What options do I have if my rear derailleur breaks when I'm out on a trail? I ran into an unfortunate situation earlier this week. I was out on a mountain bike trail, alone — just me and my hardtail. I'm pedaling, when I suddenly hear a CRUNCH and my bike stops. The hanger has broken, and the derailleur is totally bent. I couldn't pedal, because the derailleur would travel with the chain and get stuck in the gears, and I had no way of reattaching it. Luckily, I happened to be pretty close to the town when this happened, so I ended up walking it for ~15 minutes and dropping it off at my local bike shop. However, I'm wondering what I can do if this happens again and I'm at a less convenient location - say deep in the woods. I don't generally carry any tools besides for a Swiss Army knife and an Allen wrench set. Is there anything I can do to patch it up enough to at least get back home if I happen to break my derailleur? <Q> If you carry a multi-tool which happens to include a chain tool, you could also convert your bike to a single speed. <S> If you do so, you would have to replace the chain afterwards as well (since you shorten it) <S> but in some situations it could get you out of a rural area. <S> If you do so, carefully select the gear you would put it in, as you won't be able to shift anymore afterwards. <S> There is a nice video online illustrating the idea: how to do a roadside fix of a broken rear derailleur .GCN <S> has some more videos online explaining roadside repairs of various issues, which may also interest you. <S> Additionally, I always take a missing link with me, as it allows you to get home after a broken chain. <S> This speed link can also be used while converting your bike to a single speed. <A> Another suggestion: Scooter it . <S> The bike is functional but the drive train cannot transmit power. <S> This can be uncomfortable, so rotating your saddle ~30 degrees to the opposite side from where you're standing <S> can give your hip something to lean on. <S> You can still use your brakes to slow and stop,and steering is just like normal. <S> This suggestion is pretty useless if there are any uphills, or any challenging terrain to cross. <S> If the chain is slapping around, you can tie it to the chainstay with cableties/slipties, or if your equipment loadout is missing these then long grass or flax or even soft twigs can help retain things. <S> If your chain has a master link, then dropping the derailleur and chain completely off the bike and into a plastic bag can help too. <S> Related answer <S> Tow it out <S> If you are riding with someone else then see if they are prepared to tow you out. <S> All the above applies, but you'll be moving faster so secure any loose bits. <S> The towstrap needs to be long enough that the tow-bike's back wheel clears the towed bike's front wheel. <S> Half-wheeling can bring you both down if it all goes poorly. <S> A spare innertube or two makes an adequate towstrap. <S> A suitable branch might work but will require some creative mounting to the tow-bike. <S> Fasten the towstrap to the front bike, and <S> the disabled bike is NOT secured - instead the back rider holds the towstrap in their secondary hand and steers/brakes wiht their primary hand. <S> Communication is critical, and not going too fast. <S> If anything goes wrong, the towed rider simply drops the strap and steers/brakes with two hands. <S> There is no need to tow on a downhill. <S> Do take the easiest line everywhere <S> - remember the tow-bike rider is doing a lot more work than normal, so you will owe them. <S> Aside - those loose bits can help with repair later on, so don't litter/lose them. <S> If not refitted in the repair, then they can help identify the right replacement hanger to buy. <A> I hope that your derailleur hanger was a separate part and not integral to the frame. <S> Some options: If you do have a separate derailleur hanger you can carry a spare. <S> If the hanger gets broken install the spare. <S> You will need more tools than a few hex wrenches to do that, maybe pliers to hold the broken hanger while you unscrew the derailleur bolt. <S> Of course if you break the hanger you may break the derailleur as well. <S> If the hanger or derailleur breaks: remove it, shorten the chain and make a singlespeed with the chain on a chainring and sprocket you can pedal out on. <A> This is a last resort and is a dirty bodge. <S> Not recommended. <S> Use your multitool to undo the lower jockey wheel from the rear derailleur. <S> Mind out for small parts - keep them. <S> This would let the chain come free. <S> You may choose to undo the inner cable from the derailleur and pocket it, or tie the derailleur up high on the seatstay out of the way. <S> At this point you have a massively long chain. <S> Pressing a pedal will tension the top, and the lower loop will dangle, probably dragging on the ground . <S> You can then set the chain on the middle or big chainring and gently ride. <S> Downsides: <S> At the rear the chain will probably migrate toward the smaller cogs. <S> Every time you lean the bike, the dragging chain will want to step to a smaller cog/higher gear, so you have to keep the bike as vertical as possible. <S> You might ride over your own chain with the rear wheel. <S> You will damage your chain, possibly ruining it. <S> The chain will try and step off the smallest cog to the right, and could wedge between the frame and cassette. <S> There's an enormous risk of the chain catching something on the ground. <S> This could stop you suddenly and promote the situation from a mere mechanical to a full-on injury situation. <S> Upside: You're rolling, not walking.
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Carry a chain tool and spare joining pin or quick link. So one solution is to scooter along with one foot on the opposite pedal, and your other foot pushing directly on the ground.
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Is the term "24 inch gear" universal (in the context of fixies)? Recently the group I ride with has included more fixie riders than I'm used to, and there's a phrase which was initially puzzling but makes perfect sense: the 24-inch gear. I've hidden the meaning under a spoiler so readers get the experience I did. 24 inches is two feet, i.e. walking. (we have lots of hills, some quite steep) I think we're all familiar with the term "gear inches" to describe the equivalent diameter of a directly driven wheel - this question is specifically about the 24" gear (not low gears in general as you'll see if you look at the spoiler). Other experienced riders, including those with fixed-gear experience hadn't come across it, and it doesn't seem common on the web (most hits are UK long-distance riders like the ones I ride with, but there are lots of sales of bikes with gears and 24" frames to bury the hits). Is this a universal term, or localised? <Q> "Gear inches" is universal enough to have a Wikipedia page : Gear inches is one of several relative measures of bicycle gearing, giving an indication of the mechanical advantage of different gears. <S> Values for 'gear inches' typically range from 20 (very low gearing) via 70 (medium gearing) to 125 (very high gearing); as in a car, low gearing is for going up hills and high gearing is for going fast. <A> 24 gear inches would be about the same as a 700c or 26" wheel with a 30 tooth chainring and a 32 tooth rear cog. <S> This combination would never be used on a fixie or singlespeed, it's just impossibly low. <S> Normally a fixie would be around 70 gear inches, with 60-75 being a reasonable range. <S> More is hard to get started and less will spin out easily. <S> This phrase does not feature in google's ngram viewer - the nearest is "gear inches" This phrase also doesn't feature as anything local in New Zealand. <S> I have a folding bike with 20" wheels and 3x8 gearing, when in a 26:32 gearing that returns a low-low 15 gear inches. <S> This combination cannot be ridden on the flat - my legs spin out <S> and I'm pedalling 100 RPM at 5 km/h. <S> On a steep hill the primary challenge is to keep going upward and stay balanced on the bike. <S> Such low gear-inch values would be only practical on the steep slopes and never on the flat. <S> Even towing heavy trailers on the flat I've never had to drop below 40 gear inches. <A> As this seem new to everyone here I've done a little more digging myself. <S> It seems to be an Audax (Randonneuring) thing, maybe with our longer rides we have more time to ponder wordplay. <S> Here are some examples. <S> I've been very careful to select those where the meaning is absolutely certain; as has been pointed out in comments and other answers, 24 gear-inches is a reasonable low gear on a bike with many to choose from (my tourer's lowest gear is 26 gear-inches, while my hybrid's is 22) <S> so I wanted to avoid citing sources that could even possibly mean this more conventional sense. <S> Most of the unambiguous hits I've found are from the British Audax scene, such as " <S> if you insist on riding fixed there's nothing here that would require the use of a '24 inch gear' (IE 2 feet!) <S> " <S> and "Determined not to be beaten and resorting to the fabled '24 inch gear'" with quite a few relating to Paris-Brest-Paris <S> "Halfway I dismount and change to the 24 inch gear," . <S> One <S> quote that could be referring to some of my club " <S> Even the mental nutter fixie audaxers I know <S> realise there's no shame in utilising the 24 inch gear (2 feet) on a really steep hill <S> - the payoff is gearing that is correct for the rest of the ride." <S> Some are unambiguously American; these seem more likely to explain the term <S> "I WILL, at a couple points be using my 24 inch gear (a clever way of saying I’ll be using my two feet, <S> aka walking … pretty clever eh?) <S> " , "Some folks say "I've got two speeds: riding and walking. <S> " <S> Others use the mathematical expression "dropping to the 24-inch gear. <S> " Twenty-four inches equals two feet. <S> Sometimes, we get by with our own two feet." . <S> All the American hits I can find are from 2010-11, while definitely British uses found in a simple Google search range from 2008 to 2017.
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'Gear inches' is actually the diameter in inches of the drive wheel of a penny-farthing bicycle with equivalent gearing.
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Can I glue this crack as a temporary solution? I suddenly noticed a crack in my frame. Is it practical for me to use glue to seal it off as a temporary solution? Edit: Further information ...two incidents so far. Someone opened their driver side door on me and I slammed into it. That considerably weakened it. Then I fell again while turning a sharp corner, it broke it. Update from 29th Jan 2019: I went to a bike shop and they told me they could not replace it; I need to talk to the shop where I bought it from and get a replacement from them. Does it have to go this way? I would imagine this fork could be easily replaced. <Q> No. <S> The consequences of fork failure are likely to be severe and painful. <S> This may only be a secondary fork crown <S> but it's still structural. <S> Any glue joint would be under huge stress and aluminium <S> doesn't glue well. <S> If this happened out on the trail it might be possible to ride back to civilisation at walking pace on a fire road, but I'd probably rather scoot the bike standing on one pedal. <S> I wouldn't even ride it to a bike shop. <S> More generally (thanks to cmaster): <S> Never ride a bike where there's so much as a crack in a) <S> the front axle, b) <S> any part of the fork, including the steering tube, c) <S> the stem, or d) the handlebar. <S> There is zero backup for any of these parts, and failure usually means immediate loss of control and consequently unmitigated crash. <A> NO!! <S> That's not a "crack" – it's broken in two! <S> You need a new fork. <S> Your current fork has completely failed. <S> Any attempt to repair it will create a massive weak spot which will just break again. <S> Anything going wrong around your front wheel has the possibility of throwing you over the handlebars into the path of a truck. <S> Furthermore, a significant piece of structural metal on your bike has broken. <S> Unless there was a pre-existing crack, whatever did that must have applied a huge force. <S> Check <S> very carefully that nothing else on your bike is damaged. <A> As others have said the fork is trash and the bike should not be ridden. <S> Given the nature of the incidents that led to the fork breaking (described in comments), the rest of the bike should be checked for damage, especially the front wheel and headset area of the frame. <S> Update: <S> Re: fork replacement: any decent bike store with a competent repair shop should be able to order and install an replacement equivalent fork, even if it is of a different brand. <S> If the fork is branded the same as the rest of the bike, that may be why the bike store told you to go to the store you bought the bike for. <S> Find a different store that is more willing to help.
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As your picture indicates it's indoors, you need a new fork before riding it anywhere. The fact that it's such a wide crack means something is already deformed and weakened.
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New wheel. Does it need that little rubber lining between it and the tube? I recently replaced my rear wheel (hooray for figuring out how to remove the cassette). Now I am about to put the old tube in the new wheel. I noticed the new wheel doesn't have any rubber lining to protect the tube from the metal as my old, now broken, wheel did. Is this an important barrier? <Q> There are a few exceptions we come to later. <S> The rim is the outer part of your wheel. <S> Along its or circumference run two flanges to hold the tyre in place. <S> Between the flanges is the rim bed. <S> A rim tape usually needs to be in this bed. <S> Thus can be a glued cloth tape, a strong adhesive tape, a strong elastic tape, or a rubber strip. <S> Often the rim profile consists of a chamber. <S> It's one end <S> is the rim bed and the other the inner circumference of the rim. <S> The latter has drilled holes for spokes and nipples. <S> The former has wider holes to access the spokes. <S> Purpose of the rim tape is to prevent the inner tube from expanding into these holes. <S> The rim tape has to be quite strong to prevent this under pressure. <S> The tape should also cover the whole width of the rim bed. <S> This keeps it from sliding. <S> If the inner tube expands into the holes it may burst. <S> Either for being over-strained or by rubbing at a burr from drilling. <S> Some rims have only one chamber. <S> This was especially common in the days of steel rims. <S> Here the inner tube may be protected by a soft strip of rubber from chafing at nipples. <S> If a rim has no spoke holes you do not require rim tape to cover the holes. <S> However, it provides an insulating layer to protect the inner tube from heat coming from the brake track. <S> There are plugs available to cover holes, where the same may apply. <S> Another exception are tubular tyres that are glued to the rim. <S> But these are only found in sophisticated race bikes. <A> That's called rim tape and it protects the tube from sharp edges in the rim and the ends of the spokes and spoke nipples. <S> Without it you will get endless punctures. <S> Most wheels come with rim tape installed, but you can buy it separately. <S> It's not hard to install, you just have to make sure you get the right width for your rims: <S> wide enough to cover the inside of the rim but not too wide <S> so it interferes with the tire bead. <A> The rubber lining is called Rim Tape. <S> Its designed to stop the tube being punctured by the ends of the spoke nipples that poke through the wheel rim . <S> If the wheel is double walled then the spoke nipples are recessed and the rim tape can stop the tube expanding into the access holes to the nipple. <S> It also hopefully stops the tube wearing on the edge of the hole that allows the inner tube valve through the wheel rim. <S> You could take the rim tape off the old wheel and use that or a new one would only be about £1-3. <S> I would recommend using one.
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Yes, you will need a rim tape to protect your inner tube from the spoke holes or the spokes in your rim.
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How can I dry a chain? I've started cleaning my mountain-bike chain more regularly, using this process: Wash off mud. Use chain-cleaner tool with de-greaser. Wash off de-greaser. Dry chain (see below). Re-lube with wet lube. Wipe off excess lube with rag/paper. The bit I'm having trouble with is #4 (dry chain). What's a good way to achieve that? Currently, I do this: Dry chain as far as possible with rag/paper. Squirt GT-85 all over chain to drive out water. Dry chain (again) with rag/paper. ...but even then it's clearly not dry enough, because when I put the new lube on the whole lot emulsifies into a brown gloopy mess :-( At this time of year (winter) I'm normally doing all this when I get home after a couple of hours riding and a couple of pints in the pub - late at night, in the dark, outside in the freezing cold, often in the rain - so I'm looking for a quick solution that doesn't involve a workshop (which I don't have, far less an air compressor). I've tried leaving it overnight before putting the lube on, but in cold weather it's still not dry in the morning. And it tends to form surface rust too... Do I just need a better (fluffier?) rag? Or is it simply not realistic to be able to clean it and re-lube it within 15 mins? <Q> It takes about three minutes to get the chain dry and hot. <S> At the particular shop I was at where this was the protocol, we'd then pull the chain out with a spoke and dip it into a jar of Boeshield T9 for a few seconds, then pull out and let drip dry. <S> The heat does a lot to pull the lube into the inners of the chain, and the results look and feel like a new chain out of the package. <S> I imagine a lot of lubes would have the same result, although you need to develop the system in a way that doesn't cause fires (choice of lube and <S> how hot you get it). <S> An old toaster oven would probably work too. <A> A mix of GT85 and chain oil isn't necessarily a good idea anyway. <S> One beater bike of mine generally has its chain oiled with GT85 alone, which I use all over the chain and front/rear mechs to reduce surface rust (it's kept outside work) <S> but the better bikes get proper oiling. <S> A fluffier rag won't get into the rollers, but these can largely be dried by spinning the chain, either on a stand or by riding a couple of hundred metres fast in the smallest chainring. <S> So you can wipe down, spin, wipe down and that will get most of the water off. <S> The rags I use are old T-shirts or bedsheets becuase they shed fewer fibres into moving parts than old towels. <S> Paper towel is rubbish for this sort of thing - it either falls to bits or <S> it's too stiff and not absorbent enough. <S> Assuming you use wet lube to oil your chain you can apply it to a damp (not soaking) chain, and work it in. <S> I do one drop per roller and back-pedal by hand until the whole chain has been round several times, before wiping off the excess, and that's noticably smoother and clearer of surface rust than if I leave it to dry overnight (in an unheated built-in garage). <A> This isn't something I've tried, and I suspect it would be horribly wasteful in practice, but you could try a quick rinse of isopropyl alcohol just before drying out a towel/rag/etc might help. <S> I've used it for smaller items that I wanted to dry quickly; it's not magic but it will get mostly dry <S> quicker <S> than just water would. <S> Of course, if the concern is that your fingers are freezing, this might not be any improvement at all. <A> Wipe off as much water as possible with a rag. apply hair dryer or a heat gun (careful with a heat gun though, those things can burn off paint, melt plastic and even degrade epoxy in carbon fiber composite.) <S> When I wash my bike I blow excess water off it with a leaf blower and wipe it down with a clean rag. <S> (The water where I live is quite hard and leaves a white residue if allowed to air dry). <S> I don't have problems with my chain rusting. <S> Shop-Vac style vacuum cleaners also work quite well, with the hose connected to the 'blow' side and a small-diameter attachment adapter. <A> Try a different oil. <S> Your MTB chain lube should be able to withstand the amount of water left in a rag dried chain. <S> I wipe the chain dry with an absorbent rag and oil it immediately, I never had a problem. <S> In winter, one option is 'give up' keeping it clean, spend 2 seconds with a chain measuring tool and replace chain when its worn (or in spring if that comes first). <A> It's not terribly eco-friendly, but try a can of compressed air . <S> It doesn't need a workshop or electrical outlet, it's portable and quiet, fairly cheap, and it generally works quite well on non-porous surfaces where it can just blow off surface water. <S> Just make sure you get in all the little nooks and crannies -- <S> oh, and don't turn it upside down or shake it (as you appear to dislike the freezing cold). <S> I'd include a link <S> but it's usually not worth buying it <S> online - shipping canned air is expensive. <A> There is no need for all that work! <S> First wipe the chain with a rag. <S> Next, use a chain washer and commercial chain cleaner fluid. <S> If you're really obsessive, drain & refresh the cleaner fluid and give it a second wash. <S> (You can store the dirty washer fluid in a jug for a couple of days, then decant & reuse the clear stuff off the top, if you want to conserve resources.) <S> Wipe the chain with a rag again. <S> Lubricate with your preferred chain oil. <S> Note that you never need to remove the chain from the bike.
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A method I've used a lot is after the chain is thoroughly clean but still wet, use an old hair dryer rigged up to be pointed into a small bucket, in which the chain is sitting in a wire basket or similarly suspended.
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Mixed Tire Size and Speedometer Setting Which Circumference do you use on the speedometer (Cateye Strada Wireless) when running a larger rear tire versus a smaller front tire (25 verus 23)? Does the larger tire determine speed, distance, etc. over the smaller tire? Thanks,George <Q> The tire on the wheel you are metering decides it. <A> These devices work by counting revolutions of the wheel and turning that into distance. <A> Assuming your bike computer is the sort that reads wheel revolutions using a magnet on a spoke, and a pickup sensor on the fork, then that's the only wheel that matters. <S> Test <S> - Imagine a bike with different sized wheels - say a 16 inch wheel with 1.5" tyre, and a 700c. <S> The 16" has a circumference of about 1185 mm, and a 700c wheel with a 28mm tyre has 2136 <S> mm circumference. <S> So the back wheel will roll around once, and the front would roll 1.8 times. <S> If your magnet sensor was on the front wheel you would be overreading by 1.8x if you used the back wheel. <S> Likewise you'd underread by 0.556x using the front wheel circumference on the back. <S> In reality those sensors are notoriously inaccurate. <S> You can do a rollout test counting how far the bike goes in 3 ~ 5 wheel revolutions, but its still up to 5% out. <S> So I tweaked mine till it gets about what strava returns, my 26" wheel measures 2030mm, but 2020 is what matches.
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So you need the circumference of the wheel you're using the device on.
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SPD vs. SPD-SL: Which unclips most easily? I got my first real road bike a few weeks ago, and am now hearing from my local bike club fellows that I should get some clipless pedals. A quick Internet search reveals that the main types are SPD and SPD-SL, and that shoes made for one type cannot be used with the other. That's not really a problem, since prices seem to be about the same for the whole pedals + shoes package. Being new to this, I am concerned about not being able to unclip in time to avoid falling over, and for this reason if there is a definite difference in ease of unclipping, I'm heavily in favor of whichever one is easier. So in the experience of those of you who have used both types, which is easiest to unclip? <Q> In my experience, Time/Mavic Iclic. <S> This should, however, not be the reason for decision. <S> Don't believe the people who claim falling is part of learning, just practice leaning against a wall and unclip a couple of hundreds times or until it feels natural. <S> What you should consider is: SPD-R and road systems in general are very uncomfortable to walk in. <S> They are compatible with some very nice and lightweight road shoes, work very well with shoe covers and have some roadie credibility <S> There are some SPD shoes that look like road shoes but are in general heavier and less stiff. <A> All road and mountain style clipless pedals are actually easy to unclip from if you twist your heel outwards. <S> You need to build muscle memory so you unclip without thinking about it when you need to get your foot down. <S> What I advise people to do is 'unclipping drills' - ride around in a safe area and repeatedly unclip and touch the ground with alternating feet, say every few crank rotations. <S> When on 'real' rides be mindful to unclip early when you need to stop. <S> You can make a decision between road and mountain shoes and pedals. <S> In addition to the points ojs made, road pedals are generally lighter and offer more support underneath the foot, but they are harder to get into as they are one sided. <A> You can get shoes compatible with both, but I don't really get on with my pair <S> and I'm not sure whether that's me or the shoes. <S> For touring, audax (i.e. long days riding, quick but not racing) and commuting <S> I have a strong preference for my walkable shoes, that go with SPDs. <S> They're much more suited to when you have to get off at a stop or if a hill becomes too much. <S> In stop-start riding it's much easier to get a couple of pedal strokes in before clipping in, or ride very slowly unclipped in traffic, if you're using shoes with a conventional sole (which means touring or mountain shoes) and a suitable pedal. <S> True road shoes slide off the pedals if you try that (or at least mine do). <S> If you're thinning of a lot of winter riding, there's much more choice of winter bike footwear in SPD (and sandals for that matter) <S> For SPDs you can also get cleats that release if you pull up hard, but I've never tried them. <S> This is the one hardware factor that may actually make a difference. <S> The actual ease of unclipping, once you're used to the movement, and assuming no trouble with your legs isn't a big factor. <S> I have my SPDs set quite loose because that's what I've always done, but I recently did a track session with Look Keos (more like SPD-SL) and while noticeably stiffer to twist out of, the actual twisting action was no more difficult (doing it on fixed gears was). <S> It all comes down to practice, so get plenty while leaning on something solid. <A> To answer your direct question: Personally, I've ridden SPD for years, and have now ridden SPD-SL for months. <S> For unclipping they're equally easy - different, but equally easy. <S> To expand I'd say that for road riding and wanting a large platform optimised for power transfer go SPD-SL, anything else, SPD as it's more versatile.
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Both are easy enough to unclip if you remember to twist your foot instead of just lifting it and neither will unclip if you forget it. SPD is walkable (but uncomfortable, has loud crunching sound on pavement/rocks and destroys floors), compatible with MTB shoes including waterproof and insulated ones and has credibility among grumpy stackoverflowers.
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Gates carbon drive on carbon frame It is hard to prove non-existence, but as far as my research goes, there is no carbon frame available for belt drive systems like Gates. My guess is that this is due to the requirement to be able to open and close the frame during belt installation. However, at the same time, carbon frame manufacturers claim that they can tailor a frame's lateral & etc. stiffness by layer density, fibre orientation and the like.So my question is what is the exact reason why belt drive systems are not available on carbon frames? ...of course, I'd also be happy if my research turns out to be incomplete... <Q> There is no reason a carbon fiber composite frame could not be built to accommodate a Gates drive. <S> CFC can be bonded to a metal split dropout no problem. <S> CFC frames designed for Gates drives are likely not common because the frame materials and drives are intended for different niches. <S> CFC frames are intended to be light, efficient and fast, are relatively expensive compared to other frame materials and are combined with derailleur drivetrains. <S> Gates drives require internally geared hubs which are a bit heavy and are aimed at 'practical' cycling offering no mess and low maintenance, where CFC frames are not used as alloy frames are perfectly adequate. <A> It is not the case that carbon frames are unavailable, but they are few and far between. <S> There was the Trek District Carbon, but that was single speed. <S> Apart from that the only Gates Belt compatible carbon frames I know of are made by http://olsenbicycles.com <A> what is the exact reason why belt drive systems are not available on carbon frames? <S> In addition to the other answers that point out that there is no such reason, because the premise itself is false, I'll point out that while a split frame is a common way to accommodate a belt drive, it's by no means the only. <S> The other main approach for accommodating belt drive is to use an elevated chain stay, which allows the drive belt to pass entirely under the chain stay, rather than having to be routed through the triangle of the rear frame. <S> This avoids having to split the frame at all. <S> This is the approach taken by Olsen, mentioned in a different answer, as well as several other bike manufacturers who support belt drive configurations. <S> Reasons for lack of availability, to the extent that there even is less availability for carbon frames as compared to frames made of metal or other materials, are much more likely to relate to market conditions, i.e. that there's rather much less demand for belt drive in that market due to differences in the way the bike is expected to be used. <S> Belt drive trains are typically heavier than an equivalent chain drive train, and very often are chosen for riding in conditions where the use of the belt significantly reduces maintenance hassles (e.g. due to rainy or muddy conditions, such as for commuting or off-road). <S> Both of these factors have a small (but certainly non-zero) intersection with the goals of riders who choose a carbon fiber frame.
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There is no technical reason that a carbon frame couldn't be designed to accommodate a belt drive system, and indeed there are examples of both major design approaches in the carbon fiber frame market.
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How much of a difference would shifting from a (24/34/44, 14x28) to a (28/38/48, 11x34) configuration make when going downhill? I currently have a Proton MTB with a 24/34/44 crankset and a 14-28 cassette. I have found the configuration to be lacking when going downhill: The front chain ring doesn't feel stiff enough on the highest gear resulting in me pedaling too hard. How much of a difference would it make if I shift to a 28/38/48 crankset and a 11-34 cassette? This configuration is found on the Giant Roam 3 (2018) which I am considering buying. I've done some math: On the MTB, running the highest gear, I am at an effective gear ratio of 44/14 = 3.14 while the Roam 3's config would give me 48/11 = 4.36. On paper, this is a 38% increase , but I am not experienced enough to know if this translates to a significant difference when pedaling. The other configuration I've mentioned is actually on another bike that I am considering buying (Giant Roam 3 2018). I am not looking to modify the current bike. <Q> 38% is a huge difference, and very noticeable on road. <S> Since the bike you are considering has 622mm rims, it adds even more to the effective gear ratio. <A> The main comparison I would suggest is that 48x11 on 38mm tyres is exactly the same ‘gain ratio’ as you would have on a road bike with 50x11 top gear and 23mm tyres. <S> You’d just have a slight aerodynamic penalty on the flat bars, which actually benefits in the context of this question when you’re maxing out your cadence on the MTB. <S> Weirdly. <S> See this table from bikecalc.com - when pedalling at 100 rpm in 48x11 you would be travelling at 35 mph which is a good pace on any bike, especially if you can keep it up! <A> Going from 44/14 = <S> 3.14 48/11 <S> = 4.36 is a big difference. <S> On a given downhill your pedaling speed would 70% of that required with the lower gearing. <S> You would not lose out on low ratios either: 24/28 = 0.86, 28/34 = 0.82. <S> The trouble is, your rear derailleur probably cannot accommodate a 11-34 cassette. <S> (Derailleurs have total capacity and max sprocket size specifications. <S> Capacity is the difference between chainring sizes plus the difference between sprocket sizes - the wider range cassette requires 7 more teeth of capacity). <S> Your chainstay may not have a may not have the clearance for the larger chainrings either. <S> You don't say how many rear speeds you have <S> but I'm guessing <S> it's 6 or less if you have a 14-28 sprockets, and you probably actually have a freewheel rather than a freehub and cassette which limits your options. <S> You may be able to squeeze a 12-28 freewheel in which would bring your highest ratio up a bit. <S> Honestly, if you want better gear ratio options, you may just need to buy the better bike with a more modern drivetrain.
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Gravity is your friend though going downhill, it’s not like the higher gearing of 48x11 will make you way faster downhill, but you would be able to sustain a comfortable cadence on longer, gentle descents before freewheeling Meanwhile, at the bottom end, you wouldn’t be sacrificing your lowest gear by much and if you’re riding on the road you would have a gear for most hills (28x34 is lower than or comparable to most roadbikes). It will make a significant difference and increase the top end speed for a given cadence noticeably.
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I replaced my rear hub, but I'm not sure about how to attach the derailleur I'm new to working on bikes and have been unable to find an answer via the internet, which, too be honest, is probably really simple. I got a bike just for riding around the city that had a cheap hub which went out recently. I replaced the hub and cassette with a Deore T610 and HG51, which I had no problem doing and they seem to fit the bike just fine. My problem is that I'm not sure how to attach the derailleur. The old derailleur was attached inline with the axle bolt, tightened down by a nut. I was planning on using the old derailleur for the time being, but the axle for the new hub is the standard 142mm, which means it doesn't extend past the bike frame itself, as seen in the picture below. I can mount the derailleur on the outside of the frame and tighten it with the quick release, but I'm hesitant to do so since it won't be supported by the axle. Is it normal for the derailleur to be supported just by the pressure of the QR and not supported by hanging on the axle? I also thought that maybe I should just replace the derailleur altogether, which I have no problem with, but it seems like most derailleurs also attach via built-in hanger or via a removable hanger, which would also be attached to the main axle. So even if I did replace the derailleur, I'd still have a similar question about how to actually attach the hanger to my bike. Further more, my bike doesn't have any kind of slot or bolt hole for a hanger. Can I just use a generic hanger an tighten it down with the quick release? Thanks for taking the time to read through this! I'd really appreciate any help! <Q> Compare @mike 's photo with your hanger. <S> Yours does not show a bolt head. <S> Mike's does, <S> and there's a specially-shaped nut on the other side. <S> This semirounded nut is supposed to slide up the dropout, and acts as one anchor. <S> Your wheel axle acts as the other, to stop the derailleur rotating around. <S> Good news is these generic claw hangers are cheap, so buy the whole unit and you'll be able to fit the derailleur. <S> Note - you may need to file the backside of the rounded nut to get chain clearance in the smallest cog. <A> Whether you are planning to use standard nuts or a quick release it doesn't matter, the frame is not meant for thru-axle only. <S> The derailleur you have right now is perfectly fine for the new setup - have a look at the underside of the hanger - there should be some kind of profile that fits in the dropout. <S> And the hollow axle stands out from the dropout enough to prevent the hanger from rotating. <S> Compare your current hanger with the one presented in one of the answers . <S> If you don't have this semirounded nut, you can drill a small hole in the dropout to fix the the hanger there with a small bolt (depending on the tools you have you either can thread the hole or use a low-profile nut). <S> In such configuration, should you have to remove the wheel (e.g. to mend the puncture), the derailleur stays in place. <S> Furthermore, later on you can also use the following simple hanger to put another derailleur: <S> In fact I have used this type of hanger to fix a vintage Campagnolo Nuovo Gran Sport ('70s, I reckon) derailleur to a 1937 frame that was originally meant for velodrome. <A> As I think you have realized your frame was intended to be used with a threaded axle hub, not a quick release. <S> That style of derailleur has to be held on securely by the axle nuts. <S> Personally. <S> I would not attempt to hold the derailleur on with the quick release <S> - there is too much risk of it moving and potentially jamming the rear wheel causing a crash. <S> Update: <S> I did some googling and it seems DMR makes a chain-tug for slotted dropouts that incorporates a derailleur hanger.
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You may be able to find an adapter that engages in the dropout slot that incorporates a derailleur hanger to use with a replacement hanger mounting derailleur.
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Strategies against getting blinded by oncoming cars When I ride on a bike path alongside an unlit road in the dark, I find myself blinded by the lights of oncoming cars, even when their lights are dimmed. This is even more true if the bike path is on the left side of the road. Currently, I mitigate this by holding one hand in front of the lights of the oncoming cars, but I wonder if there are superior strategies. The military tend to use bright flashing lights as one weapon to blind their adversaries, so I expect they have also developed defensive strategies against such blinding. How can I prevent being blinded by the (dimmed!) lights of opposing cars? Example of bike path. It's much worse in sections without a rail. <Q> Also, you can avoid looking directly at the headlights. <S> Look slight off to the side, and maybe downwards a bit. <S> I'd probably look at the edge of the path the farthest from the road. <S> That way, you'll see things on the path, without your eyes looking directly into the lights of the car. <S> You'll still be able to see the path just fine. <A> This is obvious but I think it is actually the best solution, if it applies. <S> If you wear glasses, make sure they're very clean. <S> If it's raining, consider using a different route even if you wouldn't in the dry.. <S> It blocks off some of the road while not blocking the view forward too much. <S> I find it helps to run my front light brighter than I normally do, when I'm using such a cycle path. <S> Then there's slightly less contrast between the path infront of you and the oncoming lights. <S> Be prepared to dim your light if somebody's cycling the other way and make sure you're not being obnoxious to the motor traffic. <S> Ultimately, there doesn't seem to be a better shield than your hand. <A> Maybe if you use a helmet with a sunshade (I have one), you can tilt your head downwards and sideways to block the car lights while still seeing forward a safe distance. <S> By the way, I detached the sunshade on my helmet because it rotated too much forward/downward with rucksack and thick clothes in the winter and it cut too much forward visibility.
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I find that a cycling cap under my helmet helps quite a bit if I tilt my head down and towards the traffic so the peak is at an angle. Use a different route, if one is available.
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Mounting Stiff Metal Fender with Strive Bolts I am trying to mount a metal fender on my bike that was formerly a cross bike. I explicitly moved to this one (used) because the "crossy", plastic ones tend to slip to one side or another, and are not long enough in either direction. The fender came with four screws that are, I believe, translated to English as "Strive Bolts" (German: Strebenbolzen/Klemmschraube). In the below image, the screw will sink into the "center" ring, and thus the hole becomes tighter. One centrally on each fender (see below) to connect the metal bar to the fender, and two to connect it near the wheel's center on the frame (back) / front fork, to be secured with a nut on the other side. The holes in the frame/fork are threaded. This gives me the following problem: Since the direction of the hole is somewhat predetermined by the angle from which the metal bars come, the suitable position for the strive bolt is only every 1/2 turn. Now it seems to me that I either have it such that the metal bar is loose and will slip right out (and it did already on a pothole), or I turn it another half rotation before trying to insert the bar, and then the hole starts to get covered because the bolt "sinks" into the cover-thing (center, first picture) and I cannot fit the metal bar in at all anymore. I also cannot screw the bolt further in after inserting the metal bar into it, because the metal bar is connected to the fender which is already mounted on top to the fork. What am I missing? To me, it seems like the "strive bolts" are perhaps supposed to be inserted in a non-threaded hole on the fork where they can spin freely, then insert the metal bar in the bolt, and then lock the metal bar in the bolt by screwing the nut on the other side tighter and tighter, thus pulling the bolt in and closing the hole. Am I thus trying to combine two incompatible designs? <Q> Many old French bikes are like this. <S> You've wound up with hardware for one. <S> You need the type of hardware used to connect the same struts to an M5 eyelet. <S> They're sometime's called R-clips or -clamps. <S> Here are the Velo Orange ones, probably around the cheapest out there. <A> The part in question is called a drawbolt. <S> Are you sure you're mounting the struts correctly? <S> Does the other end of the fender strut have an eyelet? <S> If so, I believe you mount the strut eyelet end to the fork eyelet with a regular bolt and washer and the drawbolt is mounted on the fender end. <S> Mount the fender and struts on the bike the way you want them and cut the excess fender strut. <S> I've seen some fender kits that have little plastic covers to put on the ends. <A> You need R clamps instead of those bolts. <S> They're specifically for that type of fender strut and will work much better. <S> Honjo makes metal ones and Berthoud makes plastic ones. <S> The plastic is safer for use on the fork because they allow the strut to pop out if the fender is damaged. <S> That will keep it from stopping the front wheel suddenly. <S> You can find them both here
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Bikes from certain times and places have used large (compared to today) unthreaded holes and draw bolts for fender attachment.
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Why are recumbent bicycles and velomobiles illegal in UCI bicycle racing? As stated in the title. However, the "superman" position is also illegal, and the question applies to that as well. Motor racing will often lean on safety to explain why there are so many limitations to how a car can be built and configured. In Formula One, e.g. fairings are illegal - it can't go too fast, as it becomes "too dangerous" (which is of course not defined, but that's a different matter). Other reasons for different types of motor sports may claim that the cars (such as in SuperGT or DTM) cannot be too dissimilar from actual production cars. Sure they are heavily modified, but they aren't purely built specifically for racing from the ground up. However, even these modifications are strictly regulated, e.g. there are limits on practically everything to slow the cars down (anything from the engine output to aerodynamics to tires, active geometry, etc.), again for safety reasons. Even though these are justifications perhaps not everyone would agree with, they are at least some form of justification. Now, what excuse does e.g. UCI cycling regulations have for banning recubment bicycles? It doesn't seem like they can use the safety feature. Would a recumbent bicycle or velomobile really be that dangerous? From what I understand, recumbent bicycles are legal to use in many countries and are sold openly. What about not adhering to the real world, being too dissimilar from "normal" bicycles? That also seems strange, given that again recumbent bicycles are sold in the first place. The only thing I can think of is that a recumbent bicycle or velomobile is simply too "weird". People don't appreciate the aesthetics of it. Perhaps they also don't learn to ride such bicycles, and are discouraged from trying them. Is that the reason why such rules are imposed on e.g. Tour de France? To a naive and rather inexperienced bicyclist myself, this seems very arbitrary and counterproductive. I would like to have more efficient bicycles in general. However, again since my knowledge of bicycles is limited I hope there is a host of problems I don't think about that makes recumbent bicycles and velomobiles dangerous and impractical. I'm curious what they are. Now before someone points out that a recumbent bicycle may have some disadvantages, I'm talking about in general. If a fully faired recumbent bicycle or velomobile has more advantages than it has disadvantages, then why are they illegal in racing? <Q> This seems like a pretty good history of the circumstances around the UCI's banning of the recumbent. <S> Your guess seems to be about right: recumbents were perceived as too weird. <S> It's interesting to note that Faure had been racing on recumbents with success and official imprimatur for a while before they were banned. <S> According to that article, there were safety concerns about fairings even back then. <S> The UCI has generally gotten more and more restrictive about what qualifies as a "bike" (although they have relaxed some rules after creating them—read the Wikipedia article on the hour record for some insight into the back-and-forth) and their current rationale is basically that a member of the public should be able to look at a racing bike and recognize it as a regular bike. <S> There is certainly a chicken-and-egg aspect to this: if more people rode recumbents (or other configurations of bike), those would look like regular bikes. <S> There is also the argument that achievements in cycling should be more attributable to the cyclist than the bike. <S> I can speculate about other factors playing into these decisions, but that's all it would be—speculation. <A> There are a number of factors that come into it. <S> Cycling is a sport with a lot of history and tradition which many want to preserve. <S> There are many technological innovations which could improve the performance of cyclists, but they each take it one step further away from the roots of the sport. <S> You see examples of this, just look at the bikes of the Boardman era on the track. <S> Bikes with no seat-tube and bizarre frame shapes made for faster times, but really seemed to have nothing in common with the bikes that racers had been riding in these events in previous decades. <S> To get a sense of consistency and maintain tradition in the sport, the UCI brought in the double triangle rule along with a few others to ensure that any innovations that were brought in would still recognisably resemble the bikes ridden in the very first iterations of the tour de France. <S> As for safety, that would also be a major concern if some riders in the peloton began racing on recumbent bicycles. <S> In a peloton, you don't have the luxury of a neat, organised paceline to know where riders around you are. <S> It's a huge mess of riders jammed into a tiny space and to move through it, you take whatever gap you can. <S> You rely on your peripheral vision to know where you can go, because you need to keep your eyes forward to not crash into riders around you. <S> A recumbent being much lower to the ground would have riders moving across thinking that there is a gap only to bump into the recumbent rider. <S> This would lead to far more crashes in the bunch. <S> To allow recumbents in road racing, you would have to entirely phase out regular bicycles in the peloton. <S> The other option is that they could replace time-trial bikes and only be ridden in time-trial stages, as time-trial bikes are also unsafe in a peloton, so are not allowed in road racing, but then there is a second set of rules on which bikes are allowed in time-trial stages. <A> the Recumbent bikes have their own federation/competition https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle <S> I guess the UCI reasoning is to find out who is the best athlete using the approved bicycle. <S> Everybody has the same bike and the only difference is the runner. <S> IHPVA on the other hand put not limit on the bike and the goal is to find out which couple bike+athlete is the best. <S> There is some car competition where everybody has the same car ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_Clio_Cup for example) and <S> the goal is to find out who is the best driver/mechanics. <A> The hour record for a recumbent faired bike is somewhere at the 90 kilometers. <S> Meanwhile, the hour record on a "normal" bike is somewhere at the 54 km. <S> Faired recumbent bikes will smoke any other kind of bike on flat stages, and wind from the front will make the difference even greater. <S> Meanwhile, side wind which would be uncomfortable for a normal race bike will sweep fully faired recumbent bikes from the road. <S> Also, while the performance difference between a lightweight climbing bike and a aero one is minor anywhere but in races (6.8 to 8-9 kilograms), the recumbent bike weighs 21 kilograms. <S> In short, recumbent bike racing is a different sport, just like drag racing and Formula 1. <S> And by the way, faired recumbent bikes look just like small cars <A> First of all: unfaired recumbents and faired recumbents racing are two different classes currently and adding unfaired recumbents would be far from as dramatic as faired ones.(An unfaired recumbent compares to a TT bike, like a TT bike compares to a roadbike basically, while a faired one is much faster) <S> While I agree with most of the answers above, the main reason to keep things the way they are (with the exception of TT ) is that the mechanics and tactical decisions of roadracing would change drastically if recumbents were allowed for the following reasons:1. <S> They cause less drag, which means there is less reason to keep the peloton together.2. <S> What makes roadracing exciting for me is watching the tactcal decision of when to push it and when to just hang on - that part of the sport would be a lot less important if recumbents were allowed in UCI road races.
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While a recumbent bicycle might be perfectly safe you ride by yourself or with other recumbent riders, it would be a disaster to mix them in with a peloton of riders on regular bikes. The weird factor is a major one. The rider cant see the front of their own front wheel, which makes it a lot harder to stay in a close formation, and would make it a lot more dangerous to try to do so.
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What determines crank length? Without getting really technical what determines the length of the cranks that you would use on your bike? I was wondering if longer cranks without being ridiculous would act as a fulcrum and make climbing easier in a higher gear ratio. <Q> As an opener to your question.... <S> Femur length. <S> Theoretically. <S> The longer the femur - the longer the crank length. <S> The old pros used to favour the longer crank lengths 175mm to 180mm being common. <S> Iirc Pantani who was a short rider even favoured a slightly longer 172.5mm for reasons of leverage as you mention above. <S> There has been a trend towards shorter crank lengths - which lend themselves to a slightly faster cadence. <S> Natural cadence speed. <S> Most riders find when they switch to shorter cranks, their cadence increases. <S> Flexibility. <A> You are correct that a longer crank arm acts as a longer lever resulting in greater peak torque output on the power stroke of the pedaling cycle. <S> That might lead us to think that longer cranks are better. <S> The most important factor determining optimum crank arm length is obviously the length of the femur (between hip and knee joints), but there are other physiological factors that mean a given rider may prefer a slightly longer or shorter crank arm. <S> Really, there's no simple way of determining optimum crank arm length. <S> Pro riders who really want to do the optimization will do controlled tests with different crank arm lengths and a power meter. <A> You have two questions there. <S> What determines crank length? <S> Personal preference Equipment availability Drive train type <S> Stories you read on the internet <S> Not necessarily in that order. <S> Do long cranks make climbing easier on high gear? <S> Increasing crank length increases torque and reduces pedaling speed (gears can be used to convert RPM to torque and vice versa). <S> Whether your body accepts such trade decides if it makes your climbing easier. <S> You will still need to output the exact same power.
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However, the optimum crank arm length is that which enables a rider to produce maximum power which does not necessarily correspond to maximum peak torque. A longer length will bring the upper leg at the top of the stroke closer to the abdominal cavity.
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How do I purchase a drop bar bike that will be converted to flat bar? I really like the Kona Sutra from both a price and specification point of view. As I have only ridden flat bar bicycles I am not sure if I can used to the drop bar. In case I cannot, I would like to convert the bicycle to Velo Orange's Crazy Bar . I know for sure, I will like that. What do I have to know when I purchase a Kona Sutra? I know that drop bar bike frames are shorter and that I need be careful about the brake and shifter pull ratios (i.e. MTB vs. Road bike components). The second is not a problem in case of the Sutra, but I am a little bit afraid of purchasing a bigger size bike just because of a potential conversion. Is there anything else you need to watch for? <Q> Converting between drop and flat bars is generally a huge amount of hassle. <S> As you say, there are all kinds of incompatibility issues around brakes and shifters, and the geometry of the frame is designed with particular bars in mind, because changing the bars makes a big difference to riding position. <S> There's no point spending £1400 on a bike and then spending a couple of hundred more to turn it into some weird Frankenbike that will ride worse than a hybrid costing a quarter of the price. <S> I wouldn't advise spending anything like that much money on a bike that you're not sure you'll be able to ride comfortably. <S> Decathlon will sell you an entry-level road bike for £250 ; Halfords will sell you one for £180 . <S> You can probably get an old, second-hand one for £50 – and then sell it again for the same price. <S> Even if you get an old bike with down-tube shifters, you can still evaluate the riding position. <S> Or hire a bike for a weekend or a week. <S> Do you know somebody who can lend you one? <S> Once you know what you want, you can consider more expensive options. <A> You have other options as well if you get on with the bike but not so well with the bars. <S> I bought a new primary bike a couple of years ago <S> - it was a steel tourer with similar specs to the Sutra, and I'd only spent a couple of hours total on drop bars before. <S> I believe fit on a gravel/adventure road bike to be closer to a touring fit than a race fit - easier to get right, and based on a slightly higher stack (I'd think of the Sutra as a gravel-tourer, while mine is more of a tourer with rough-road capability, due to its longer wheelbase and slightly thinner tyres). <S> That more relaxed fit makes the transition from flat bars easier. <S> I took it for a reasonably long test ride <S> (~1 hour, >20km including two blocks of 6km in the drops), mainly testing for fit and confidence, as I was used to a high vantage point on my hybrid (I'm tall). <S> The test ride is crucial. <S> I had a plan B for if I didn't get on very well with drop bars: interruptor levers . <S> They allow you to brake from the bar tops and are easily retrofitted. <S> I never bought them and after the first few days had no desire to. <S> Riding on the hoods is easy, as it's mean to be. <S> Good bar tape and good gel gloves (even cheap ones) will deal with any hand comfort issues. <A> This is just a generally bad idea. <S> There are plenty of flat bar bikes with similar specs (700c wheels, 40mm tires, disc brakes, 9 speed mountain drivetrain) available. <S> and you don't know if you'll even like the end result.
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Swapping out the bars shifters and brake levers is expensive, time consuming, you have to work out the compatibility problems - It's a much better idea to test ride bikes that you think you might like, then when you purchase you know what you are getting.
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Budget brands for gears in India A total newbie here. I'm planning to upgrade a single speed to geared one road/tour bike. I haven't decided the gear system though. I guess I'll decide that upon availability of the parts. Well, I am looking for a budget but reliable alternative to Shimano brand gears. I live in India. Can anyone suggest some other brands? Also are there any local companies? <Q> Changing major features of a bike (e.g., drop/flat handlebars, gears/no gears) is rarely an economical option. <S> There are all kinds of compatibility issues (e.g., different drop-out width, nowhere to mount a derailleur, etc.) <S> and overcoming these takes time and money and tends to leave you with a worse bike. <A> What’s wrong with Shimano? <S> They offer good range of budget group sets. <S> SRAM is of course another option. <S> Do some research on converting s single speed bike to derailleur gears. <S> Single speed bikes typically have narrower rear hub spacing that does not allow for a cassette. <S> They also lack derailleur hangers and cable mounting bosses. <S> You can get over these problems with special parts but it’s not straightforward. <A> I also wouldn't advocate adding gears to a single speed bike; it's unlikely to be economical and is unlikely to give as good a result as buying a geared bike. <S> This related question has some other ideas in the accepted answer, but probably don't count as budget. <S> Looking on Decathlon's Indian website, they sell road bikes with Shimano Tourney derailleurs and also Microshift, both good budget options. <S> They also sell hybrid bikes with Suntour and Microshift components. <S> Some of these look a little outdated compared to the high end products these companies also offer, but I don't think this means they are any less reliable. <S> These are all established brands, recognised worldwide and with reputations to maintain - they should be reliable parts or have reasonable support from the manufacturer if problems do occur.
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Usually, the most economical and most effective way of making this kind of major change is to sell the bike you don't want and buy the bike you do want, possibly second-hand.
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Rust hole on tube between chain stays I've inherited a frame my father used to ride and was planning on getting it blasted and coated. Checking it over it all seems to be in fair condition (its decent 531 Reynold tube), some rust, but not deep. Except the tube behind the bottom bracket shell between the chain stays (what do you call that bit?) which has a large rust hole. How bad is this? Safe to ride? Fixable? If it didn't have sentimental value I'd probably chuck it, but it does so I'd like to use it if possible. <Q> When building frames high quality tubing, such as Reynolds 531 is often only used on the main tubes (i.e., main triangle) and if you are lucky the rear triangle. <S> Less critical tubes, such as the cross-brace, will typically use a lower quality steel, such as a mild steel, which is more susceptible to rusting and will show earlier signs of deterioration. <S> Therefore, there is still a chance that while the cross-brace has severely deteriorated, the main structural frame may have remained relatively intact. <S> There is of course no way to know for certain until you strip off all the components and paint and really have a close inspection of the main structural tubes. <S> Once the paint is off you can can see how deep the surface rust goes. <S> You can also try tapping the tubes lightly with a small hammer to see if you hear tone changes (i.e., severe thinning due to interior rusting). <S> Careful inspect the chain and seat stays as some frame builders use cheaper steel here, which may not have faired as well. <S> This is a delicate proposition as you want to ride it as lightly as possible until you see how it reacts and slowly build more confidence as you use it in differing situations. <S> One of the things working in your favor is the failure mode of steel is a lot better than other frame materials such as aluminum and especially carbon, which you should generally avoid riding if you have concerns over structural damage. <A> How bad is this? <S> Bad. <S> Real bad. <S> Safe to ride? <S> No. <S> I sure wouldn't. <S> Fixable? <S> No, not in my opinion. <S> That's what you can see . <S> What does the inside of the seat tube look like? <S> Or the insides of the welds that hold the steer tube to the top and down tube? <S> Just look at the peeling paint on the bottom bracket. <S> And water doesn't generally pool nor collect and remain on <S> the outside of the bike... <S> If it has significant sentimental value, blast it, clean it thoroughly, and then see what you find. <S> It might be salvageable, but I wouldn't wager too much on that possibility. <S> That cross brace is completely rusted through. <A> I would say that the frame is probably not safe as it is. <S> For one, I don't know how important that connection was for the structure of the frame. <S> But most importantly: Water is likely to have entered the chain-stays through the hole created by the rusted connection. <S> The consequence is, that you cannot trust the chain-stays without checking them. <S> And chain-stays are a vital part to the security of your bike. <S> So, you don't want to take this lightly. <S> Depending on how far the water (and rust) entered the frame you can have either of these outcomes: <S> No hole in the chain-stays = <S> > <S> the frame can be salvaged by replacing the connection. <S> Hole in the chain-stays and water/rust entered them = <S> > <S> Hole in the chain-stays and water/rust also entered the bottom bracket from that direction = <S> > <S> well, looks like you need to replace the bottom bracket as well. <S> I guess this kind of repair could get expensive due to all the welding that would need to be done. <S> I guess, it should become clear which of these it is once you have fully removed the rotten chain-stay connection. <S> Look at the state of the chain-stays themselves at the point where the connection was welded on, and proceed accordingly.
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Finally, the cross-brace was often used for fender mounting and was usually drilled, paint damage at this point is also common which could have further accelerated the rusting. Even if you do all this and the main frame seems reasonable intact, I would still be cautious in use as there is no way to determine with absolute certainty the safety of the frame without pressure testing it (i.e., ridding it). you may need to replace the chain-stays.
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Hybrid flat to drop conversion advice I have a Whyte Portabello hybrid, I wanted to swap to an adventure bike with drops. I thought as an alternative it might be easy to convert my existing bike instead, and save a bit of money. It has hydraulic disk brakes but most brakes on drop bars seem to be cable operated? The rear derailleur is a Shimano, so would I just have to get some Shimano road brake/ shifters and fit some cable operated calipers instead? Or is it a bit more complicated than that? thanks <Q> You'd end up with a bike that doesn't handle very well because you're moving the handlebars to a completely different place and the rest of the bike geometry doesn't match that. <S> Sell the bike you have and buy the bike you actually want. <S> If that doesn't fit in with your finances, a second-hand bike is almost certainly a better option than trying to convert your existing bike. <A> Hydraulic road brakes are available on 105 and up. <S> I think road and MTB levers and calipers are compatible. <S> Your 10 speed Deore derailleur will not be compatible with 10 speed road shifters. <S> Shimano derailleur pull ratios diverged when MTB drivetrains reached 10 speeds. <S> As David said, the main problem is hybrid bikes have different frame geometry than drop-bar bikes. <S> They are longer (greater reach) because flat bars do not extend so far forward as drop bars. <S> The Portobello also seems to have a large stack (height of the top of the steerer tube above the BB). <S> You'd have to use a very short stem to get a usable hand position, which will negatively affect the steering. <S> A set of hydro road shifters is not cheap, you'll either have to learn how to bleed hydro brakes (and buy a bleed kit) or have a LBS do it for you; and you are taking a risk that you'll end up with something unridable, or at least very compromised. <A> Assuming it also has Shimano brakes, probably it's enough to change the brakes and shifters. <S> A short search would indicate this: https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-st-rs685-hydraulic-disc-brake-stis-br-rs785-disc-brakes-post-mount-75654.html at a price of some 160 GB pounds so less than 200 eur for the brake/shift levers. <S> You would also need to mount them, connect the brake tubes (they are probably long enough), bleed the brakes, find the brifters (STI) with the correct number of speeds. <S> Also, the pull ratio (how much the gear cable must shorten for a gear change) might differ from MTB to road gear shifters, in which case you probably need new derailleurs (road). <S> I've checked and the 2018 version has Shimano Sora (road) groupset, so you could either go with combined hydraulic brake/shift levers for Shimano road 9 speed, or change the brakes to a cable/hydraulic or full cable combo (if available). <S> EDIT: <S> the 2019 version seems to have Shimano Deore rear derailleur, so MTB not road. <S> Not sure of your exact year/version and derailleur.
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You'll need to replace a lot of components because the derailleurs and brakes used on flat-bar bikes aren't compatible with the levers typically used on drop-bar bikes. Simple advice: don't do it. Selling the bike and getting a new one is a better option.
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Loud cracking/creaking sound only when cycling uphill I've bought a new road bike with disk brakes from Canyon ( Endurace AL Disc 8.0 ) and have it now for a month. Since the beginning it makes a loud cracking/creaking noise. It sounds metallic, almost like the noise you get when placing a bike upside down, spinning a wheel and bringing it to a full stop instantly with the disk brakes. I sounds like it is coming from the front wheel, although I'm not so sure of that. The noise only appears, when i cycle uphill at a rather steep gradient and especially when I stand up on the bike. The noise is consistently triggered when the right foot is at its lowest point. I can also eliminate the noise by sitting down in my saddle and applying a more constant force to the pedals. Unfortunately it's quite hard to tell where the noise is coming from since I have to be climbing a hill in order to hear it. What could be making that noise and how do I fix it? <Q> Strangely, I have a Canyon and suffered the same creaking / clicking which developed after a couple of years of ownership. <S> It would appear when putting power down on ie. <S> Hills. <S> In every examination - the noise appeared to come from the front - the chainset - and only under harder effort on hills. <S> Firstly, you need to look at and consider the obvious. <S> pedals - smooth with no play? <S> bottom bracket - is it worn? <S> crank fastening bolt(s <S> ) - is the top hat on tightly? <S> and the non drive side fastening bolts (for Shimano) tight? <S> Then consider the not so obvious. <S> And consider noise to be caused by the tiniest amount of movement between the cranks where the main force is being applied - all the way back to and through the rear axle. <S> So starting at the front end with the cranks... chainring bolts. <S> Make sure they are tight and have a decent amount of thread on them. <S> 3rd party alloy chainring bolts often minimalise the amount of thread. <S> quick release levers. <S> Are they on tight enough? <S> Lightweight 3rd party skewers can be a little flimsy on the clamp and tiny movements on the axle can cause noise. <S> Try using a Shimano one for instance - and see if the noise subsides. <S> cassette. <S> Is it wobbling on the the freehub? <S> If it is - check the lockring. <S> rear derrailleur - is the rear mech fastened tightly to the frame? <S> rear derrailleur hanger - has this loosened over time?(this happened to be my issue!)The tiny allen key fastenings bolting the replaceable hanger to the frame can come loose. <S> As was the case in my problem. <S> Amazingly, the tiny movements from the rear mech hanger - caused the noises at the front of my bike. <S> It took me many months to work this out - and in this time I stripped down the chainset at least twice and needlessly replaced the bottom bracket. <S> Best of luck in your hunt. <A> You are riding uphill. <S> Frame is bending when applying power to pedals. <S> That's normal. <S> My first guess would be that your disc brake pads are rubbing against disc when applying force to pedals. <S> Frame and calipers move, disc stays still. <S> Try to widen distance between pads on your bike or try to slightly touch your brakes at that power to see if there is a change of sound. <S> If nothing happens move on searching for another problem. <A> Firstly, if the noise is in synch with crank rotation <S> it's being caused by the crank or something associated with it. <S> I though this would be due to press fit BB bearings, but <S> when I looked up your bike specs i see it has <S> a BSA threaded BB. <S> Check <S> that is tight and the bearing run smooth. <S> Pedals are another possibility. <S> Check bearings run smooth, cleats tight etc. <S> If you have a friend who would be willing to swap pedals temporarily you can rule these on or out. <S> Also check to see if the chain is hitting the front derailleur cage, when you apply more force the frame may flex enough for this to happen. <A> If it sounds like the sound is coming from your front wheel, it may be coming from your front wheel. <S> Look for cracks in the rim around the spokes, and, assuming a normal rim-brake wheel, on the brake tracks, especially where the sidewall of the rim/brake track joins with the rest of the rim. <S> Cracks aren't likely on a front wheel - unless you have one with a manufacturing defect. <S> Which is possible. <S> (I had an almost identical problem - creaks from the front wheel at specific points in my pedal stroke when pushing harder. <S> I never could figure it out until one of the front wheel spokes pulled completely through the rim where the rim had cracked. <S> That caused the noise to stop. <S> But that wheel had literally tens of thousands of miles on it.) <A> A farfetched possibility, but -- check the integrity of your frame. <S> I know it's new; check it anyhow. <S> I had a similar situation, creaking from somewhere low on the bike when I applied max force to the pedals. <S> I thought it was my bottom-bracket bearing or perhaps my crank. <S> It turned out to be a crack in the frame near the bottom bracket; eventually, it got bad enough to be visible, and to let the chainring wobble visibly as I pedaled. <S> RIP, Shogun 1500; you gave me 30 good years of service. <A> Seems like the problem solved itself... <S> I checked the if the crank was loose in any way (which it didn't seem to be) and newly screwed in the right pedal. <S> I checked if the noise was still there and, unfortunately it was. <S> The day after, however, the noise disappeared. <S> It is now the second day and I haven't heard the noise since. <S> I'm not sure if it really was the pedal <S> but at least I got what I wanted. <S> Thanks for all the answers!
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You could have a problem such as a cracked rim on the front wheel that only makes noise when a specific, not-usually-encountered force is applied, and that force is only applied when you're in a certain position. If the lockring is tight - then your freehub might be worn. If the creaking gets worse when the force on the cranks is higher, either through going uphill or standing up (which produces a higher peak force for the same average power), that points to the bottom bracket.
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Fitting front derailleur to one-by hardtail Would a front double derailleur be possible on these hardcore hardtails? In grey: Kona Big Honzo (carbon) In black/yellow: Transition Throttle (carbon) In blue: Ragley Blue Pig (steel) I only ask the question regarding the frame architecture, not about the parts I will have to change. Thanks ! <Q> Everything is possible, the question is "is it worth one's while". <S> When fitting a front derailleur to a bicycle the following aspects need to be considered: affixing the derailleur to the front tube - is there a hanger already or one needs to be put, or a clamp-on derailleur will fit is routing the cables possible - <S> are there the suitable eyelets can the shifter be easily added or perhaps a brifter needs to be installed <S> For the first one - putting any clamp on a steel frame with round tubes is easy as pie. <S> Even brazing a hanger (if you plan on painting the frame afterwards). <S> For oddly-shaped tubes you are facing a challenge, and remember not to overtorque the clamps on carbon tubing. <S> The second one on steel and aluminium frames can be solved by attaching some routing guides with pop rivets (or brazing those on for a better visual effect if you plan on painting the frame afterwards). <S> The third issue is the easiest to solve but depends on your current setup. <S> And remember not to overtorque the clamp if having a carbon steering bar. <S> Thus, it is possible. <S> But if you are looking for more speed range <S> I suggest you watch <S> this RJ <S> The Bike Guy video where he converts a 2x7 to 1x10 and explains how the current speed range is kept in the new setup (see the chart from 13'54"). <A> Given that you've pictured three bikes, I infer that you're considering buying a bike and then immediately upgrading it. <S> Don't do that. <S> Instead, buy a bike that has the features you require. <S> ( Mike's answer gives more detail about the hassle involved.) <A> Adding to Mike's answer... <S> If you want a 2x setup, chances are you want a bigger front ring. <S> These bikes are designed for 1x systems with a small ring and wide ratio cassettes.
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You can install an electrically activated derailleur (e.g. Di2 from Shimano, EPS from Campagnolo or eTap from SRAM) and simply attach the wires with tie-wraps or electrical tape. Adding new features to a bike is expensive and usually means that you end up with a bike that's less good than one that was designed to have those features from new. Carbon is not that easy to customise. A larger diameter front ring may have clearance problems with the drive side chainstay.
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Is it possible to convert a suspension fork to rigid by drilling it? I have been given a Falcon MTB. I've sorted out all its troubles but the front suspension fork is worn.When using the front brake the slack in the tubes make them judder. Is there anyway I can "solidify" the fork as I don't need suspension. Can I drill it back to front and put a bolt through or something like that? <Q> DO NOT DRILL HOLES IN YOUR FORKS <S> That would weaken them substantially and run the risk of them breaking under stress (e.g., when you hit a pothole). <S> A broken fork will probably put you in the emergency room, and potentially the morgue if you're unlucky with vehicles nearby. <S> Hopefully, other answers will address how to fix your forks; worst case is replacement, which isn't crazy-expensive for rigid forks. <A> As others said don't drill the fork, as others said go for a new/used fork they come by cheap in most countries when no suspension is needed. <S> But if you still want to go DIY <S> I will give you a couple approaches. <S> What you can do instead is to put a spacer inside the fork, that way it will have no travel avaliable. <S> You will need something like Nilon or Lexan, as they have more plasticity than pvc it will only deform under load, so it won't crack and break. <S> You can also use aluminium or steel. <S> About the "give" between the tubes and the legs that's tricky. <S> You can slide a tappered rubber gromet. <S> You will have to custom fit tho, but it should reduce the jugger. <A> You seem handy with tools. <S> Your best fix is to swap in a different fork from a donor bike. <S> Things to look for in a replacement fork: <S> Same stem mount format (threadless or threaded) <S> Same steerer outside diameter <S> Enough length in the steerer Same mounts for your existing brakes, whether they be disk or caliper or cantilever. <S> If you need mudguard mounts - they're handy to have too. <S> Also closely inspect the donor fork for cracks and possible wear in bearing races. <S> You may be able to salvage the lower headset race from the old fork. <S> You can use a fork from any material, steel or aluminium or carbon, but check its crash history first with the owner. <S> Where to source a fork? <S> Try your local auction websites like ebay or gumtree or craigslist. <S> Expect to buy the whole bike and pick off the bits that could be useful. <S> You're unlikely to find a new fork with the right fittings for reasonable prices. <S> Last option is to buy a donor bike with rigid forks, and fix that up as well. <S> Then your N is 2. <A> The judder is likely due to slope between the fork stanchion and the bushings in the fork lower. <S> The only real fix is to fix the tolerance issue by replacing the fork bushing, which may not be possible on low-end forks or cost prohibitive.
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The best solution therefore may be to replace with an inexpensive rigid fork, as other answers have suggested. Most solutions to make the fork “rigid” (i.e., no compression or rebound movements) will not address this tolerance issue, so in all likelihood the judder would persist after making the fork “rigid”.
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Is this a touring bike? I’m thinking to buy this bike. I usually ride mountain bikes and this is my first time looking for a touring bike. I only need something for ride on the roads to go school. Could someone recommend me something?? Info: 10 Speed CCM Ladies Bicycle 25" Rims diameter 21" or 53cm Frame Size Women's road bike sizing Rider Height 55" - 58" / 165cm - 172cm Frame Size 53cm - 55cm Frame Size Medium <Q> It's not a touring bike: touring bikes would have mounts for front and rear racks, as well as mudguards. <S> This bike has mudguard mounts (the little "eyes" near the front and rear axles) but no rack mounts. <S> Rack mounts would be bigger versions of the same things near the axles, and also mounting points near the saddle and at the top of the forks. <S> Honestly, though, don't focus on the name. <S> If you don't want to carry a rucksack while you ride (which can get quite sweaty in hot weather), you'll need something that has mounting points for a rack. <S> Unless rain is rare where you live, you'll want something that has mounting points for mudguards. <S> Assuming you're riding on roads or paved/gravel cyle trails, you won't need suspension or knobbly tyres. <S> If your ride is quite long (say, more than about 15km each way), you'll probably want something with drop handlebars to give yourself more hand positions for comfort; if your ride is fairly short (say, 10km or less; yes, I know I've left a gap in the middle), it won't much matter what kind of bars it has. <S> For longer rides, you'd probably also want a bottle cage, though you can get cages that mount with a strap around one of the tubes, instead of screwing into mounting points. <S> For commuting, you might want to replace whatever tyres come with whatever bike you buy, and get something more puncture resistant. <S> Being 45 minutes late for class because you got a puncture (in the rain; it's always in the rain) is no fun at all. <A> No that's not really a touring bike. <S> I'd call it a vintage road bike from the 70s or 80s, dating from the big Bike Boom created by the oil crisis of the 1970s. <S> Its got some kind of centerpull brake calipers, which implies medium or above in terms of overall quality. <S> Possibly has steel rims still which are not as good in the rain as modern alloy rims. <S> The secondary brake levers will be rubbish at stopping you, and in the bike boom riding on hoods and drops was relatively uncommon for people who weren't racing. <S> Places to pack things on the bike too, like frame bags and bar bags etc to carry your touring kit.... <S> touring riders don't generally wear backpacks. <S> This bike doesn't have a bottle cage, and I'd bet it lacks bottle cage mounts, dating from the era when hydrating while riding was uncool. <S> In short - get a leg over it and test ride for a bit. <S> Then make a decision about how it feels. <S> Still - a very nice bike, should do the school trip fine, and is less likely to be stolen than an expensive-looking newish MTB or road bike. <A> By the look of it, it has 20mm tires, which would suggest an internal pressure (depending on rider weight) of 7-9 atm. <S> Kick sometime a bus or truck tire. <S> That's 7 to 9 atm for you. <S> I went from 20 to 23 mm tires, and it made a large difference in comfort, grip and rideability. <S> As for buy/not buy, ride it a bit <S> - you might love it or you might hate it, and either is fine. <S> Anyway, for anything up to a couple of hours ride it should do fine. <S> Also, nice conversation opener :)
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A touring bike would have more places to mount racks, mudguards fitted, and sometimes multi-position handlebars for rest and variety. You say that you need a bike to cycle to school, so focus on finding a bike that will be suitable for that. You could absolutely ride it anywhere you like, but it probably has 27" wheels which is ETRTO size 630, and they're a bit less common nowdays.
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Going from 7 Speed Cassette to 8 Speed Cassette here is the situation – I have a quasi-vintage 7-speed bike that still has the original front and rear derailleur (Deore DX) in very good condition. I have recently took a wheel building class which, naturally, resulted in a nice new set of wheels that I would like to use on this bike. However, the freehub on the new rear hub is for a 8/9/10 cassette. Now, I realize that I could buy a spacer and place a 7 speed cassette on that bad boy. My question is this – Could I put an 8 speed cassette on the new hub, avoiding needing a spacer, and then adjust the limit screws on the rear derailleur to accommodate the extra gear on the cassette? I’m currently using a set of dura ace 8-speed bar end index shifters at the moment, so that wouldn’t be a concern. I also believe a 7 speed and 8 speed drivetrain uses the same chain, too. Thanks for any help! <Q> Dura-Ace 6/7/8-speed used different cable pull ratios from other models. <S> To get your shifter to work properly with your DX rear derailleur <S> you may have to try alternate cable routing. <S> As always, Sheldon has the details: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/dura-ace.html <A> Well, if you have 8 speed shifters an 8 speed cassette those will work together. <S> (I'm a bit confused about how you were getting this to work with a 7 speed cassette as the spacing between sprockets is 0.2mm different (see here ). <S> If you have a putatively 7 speed derailleur, it will still work OK because Shimano used the same derailleur actuation ratio for 7, 8 and 9 (and road 10) speed systems. <A> Congrats on the new wheels! <S> I'm sure they will roll for many years. <S> What you described will work perfectly. <S> That is because as you said 7 and 8 speed systems use the same width chain and the shifter assumes the same distance between the gears. <S> On the other hand, if you wanted to put a 9 or 10 speed cassette, you would also need to get a new chain and shifter and the front crankset would be slightly wrong.
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Yes, 7 and 8 speed chains are the same but you'll want a new chain to run on the new cassette.
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Can I pump my MTB tire to max (55 psi / 380 kPa) without the tube inside bursting? I have a e-mountain bike and I use to commute to uni every day. I have heard that higher tire pressures give you a bit more speed. My tires say I can pump to 55 psi (380 kPa) but I don't know if my tube can handle the same pressure. Don't want to buy a new tube. I currently have them at 40 psi (280 kPa). Will 47 to 50 psi (320–380 kPa) burst my tubes? <Q> It can't burst the tube, because the tube is completely surrounded by the tyre and rim. <S> Bear in mind, though, that higher pressures don't automatically mean a faster ride. <S> I don't ride mountain bikes <S> so I don't know where that trade-off starts to bite. <S> On an e-bike, I'm not sure this will make much difference, though: it just means that the assist motor will have to work less hard at any given speed. <A> The tensile forces are borne by the tire, not the tube. <S> So go ahead and pump it up to the maximum pressure on the tire if you're riding mostly on roads. <S> I think you'll find the bike rolls significantly easier. <S> David Richerby argues a tire too hard will lead to a less efficient ride. <S> JimmyJames gives two examples of testing lower pressures in road tires. <S> Apparently there is a significant "lower is faster" camp of roadies. <S> Their argument isn't applicable to your situation, in fact the data suggest 55 psi is what you want. <S> A higher pressure would probably be better, if the tire could handle it. <S> Here's a graph from the first example : <S> This is the time taken to roll down a test hill: less is better. <S> For the two clinchers tested (your tires are almost certainly clinchers), in neither case did they find a pressure that was "too high". <S> For the tubulars, they did find a higher pressure that was slower, but look at the pressures involved: the lowest pressure tested was 85 psi! <S> Not to mention of course your tires aren't tubulars, you aren't on a road bike, and you probably aren't riding as fast <S> and you probably don't have high-end tires. <S> Also note the potentially misleading axis which starts at 24: this makes the differences between tests look much more significant than it really is. <S> Also note the author of this article is selling something . <S> The data from the second example : <S> This shows the power required to sustain 40 kph. <S> Lower is better. <S> Note in every case , higher pressure was better. <S> In some cases the margin was very small. <S> And again note the pressures tested: the "low" pressure is too high for your tires: 84 psi. <A> I know from my own experience (several decades of riding bicycles of various sorts) that harder tyres roll quicker and resist puncturing more (particularly on the road), but softer tyres grip better (particularly offroad). <S> Only your own experience will find you the best compromise between the two for your riding style. <S> The one thing I found could force a tyre off the rim (and therefore explode the tube - with a very load BANG!) <S> was a flat spot on the rim, but I did pump the tyre up to 115 PSI. <S> The tube was in no way to blame. <S> A round rim would prevent this from happening at recomended pressures.
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There are two competing factors: a soft tyre is constantly losing energy due to being squashed flat against the road, but a hard tyre loses energy because any bumps you go over have to lift the whole bike, instead of just deforming the tyre.
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Changing 23mm tyre to 25mm - considerations? I got a L size Opus Allegro 4.0 (2014) which came with Vittoria Zaffiro tyres 23-622 (700*23c) on an Alloy Shimano Asoo WH-R501 wheelset 622x15c. I'd like to fit a wider tyre to improve my experience and feel when I am on bumpy roads. I'd like to know what parameters I should consider when I fit a wider tyre (say a 24 or 25) on the current wheels/innertubes and, what are the limitations of my current set up if I don't want to change all at the same time (i.e., bike frame, etc.) <Q> Inner tubes fit a range of tire sizes. <S> 15 <S> mm rims will easily take 23 or 25mm tires. <S> Check that your frame has sufficient clearance for an extra mm or two on either side (some tires are a bit wider than specified width) at the brake calipers, fork crown and chain stays. <A> 23 to 25 is pretty minimal - you might not feel much of a difference. <S> I'd look at the chainstay and seatstay gap, and then the brake bridge to see how much space you have, and then go for the largest tyre that will fit without causing frame rub. <S> Different tyre brands have subtly different sizings, and they vary across rim widths too. <S> Also remember frames flex while riding, so that which fits statically may cause frame rub in a dynamic ridden environment. <S> Your question about tubes is answered elsewhere on the site - start with: Will a "700 x 25-32cc" inner tube fit my "700Cx28/38c" / "ETRTO 622x20" rim? and read the linked questions etc. <A> If your inner tubes are 18-23mm, then by all means go for new tubes.
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The two things to consider when increasing tire size are compatibility with the rim width and frame/fork clearance. I'd be very surprised if the frame does not have clearance for 25mm tires. However, current smallest tubes from both Conti and Schwalbe are 18-25 compatible, so you should probably be fine.
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Can I patch a tire (not a tube) that has a hole? I've got a relatively new bike tire (hard case Bontrager) that got punctured by a nail. So now the tube bulges out of the tire and is of great risk of bursting (though I biked several miles before realizing this). I'm wondering if it is possible to patch the tire? If so, how would you do this? I'm guessing you'd want a non-stretchable patch. <Q> To get you home, you can use a tyre boot. <S> This is essentially a non stretchy patch that sticks on the inside of the tyre. <S> They're not recommended for long term use but people do run them long term (for example relegating them to a commuting bike/wheelset). <S> If you do use them long term it's a good idea to check then occasionally. <S> This assumes tubed tyres. <S> Boots also don't work next to the bead as there isn't enough material for them to stick to and resist the considerable load. <S> I've improvised a boot from a glueless patch (and run the tyre soft). <S> Crisp (chips) packets, gel wrappers and strong banknotes are also used. <S> Something sticky to hold it in place while you reassemble and inflate is a good idea. <A> now the tube bulges out of the tire <S> It's likely time to get another new tire - this one is probably dead. <S> The tube bulging out of the tire means that the structural integrity of your tire is compromised - one of the functions a tire <S> must do for you to ride safely is hold the tube securely. <S> This tire no longer does that. <S> And a patch really can't fix it. <S> The fibers embedded in the rubber compound are likely cut. <S> It's those fibers that give the tire the strength it needs to hold the tube in place against the pressure of the air inside the tube, and no patch can uncut those fibers. <S> A glued-on patch can fail, as the glue is not really designed to take the shearing forces that are pulling the tire apart at the cut. <S> The tire's fibers are designed to withstand those forces, but they're cut. <S> If you do the math, the total forces put on the rim and tire by the air inside the tube are pretty substantial. <S> For example, a 1.5" 29er tire has an area over 410 square inches (area of a torus). <S> If that tire is inflated to mere 50 psi, that's a total of over 20,000 lb of force spread out over the area of the tire trying to pull it apart and push it off the rim. <S> A tire boot (as mentioned in what's currently the other answer) is, IMO, a temporary fix for a cut tire. <S> It gets you home. <S> Tires are wear items - they wear out, sometimes faster than you'd like. <A> Personal experience. <S> I've successfully patched a round tread-hole of ~1mm across where the tube herniated through and wore through after ~200 km. <S> Buff then tube patch on the inside, and a spot of RTV to fill the void on the outside. <S> This was a hole not a cut, so the integrity of the tyre carcass was fine. <S> I figured a patch added no more offset weight than the same patch flipped and stuck on the tube. <S> Probably okay for commuting and normal usage, to get the maximum wear out of a tyre. <S> Not suitable for a race. <A> I did use a tube patch on a sidewall hole in the tire (I too had a nail) - and the tire bulging has decreased somewhat. <S> It's not a long term solution though. <S> Keep in mind that auto tire patch (the one in the thread) is NOT TO BE USED for sidewall holes <S> (once a car tire has a sidewall hole, you must buy a new one). <A> You could have used a sleeve glued on the inside using vulcanising fluid, you can do this in any position on the inside of the tyre. <S> You just use a oversize patch vulcanized in place, works as well as anything and is safe as it holds the tyre together where it is split.
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If the hole is not on the sidewall but on the tread, you might possibly solve it with an auto tire patch (the kind used for holes in the tread).
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Independent drivetrains on tandem bicycle On a standard tandem frame, is it possible to build a tandem bicycle with independent drivetrains for the two riders? Is there a custom frame builder that would build a tandem like this? I'm aware of the half-recumbent tandem that has independent drivetrains, but I'm specifically interested in the classic/normal tandem frame. EDIT: By independent drivetrain, I mean that I would like each rider to be able to coast independently of the other. The cadence can remain constant between front and back when both are pedaling. <Q> As Chris H points out in his comment, this could mean two different things. <S> The half-recumbent/half-upright design does have separate gearing for each rider. <S> There's a different system that some conventional recumbents use that gives each rider the ability to coast independently, but they pedal at the same cadence: both sets of cranks drive a jackshaft (located just in front of the stoker's crank), which in turn drives the rear wheel. <S> There have been numerous ideas for bike drivetrains over the past century, and it's easy to imagine that other ideas have been tried out and lost to history. <A> Here's a picture of a half recumbent tandem from https://www.ucycle.com/merchant/2856/images/zoom/hase-pino-allround.jpg <S> Here is a link to a video of people riding a recumbent tandem. https://binged.it/2TXkxJC <S> The video does a good job of explaining that the front crank has a freewheel mechanism that lets the riders pedal at different speeds. <S> The front rider can also stop pedaling. <S> If this is what is meant as "independent drivetrains" then the functionality is in the crank rather than the frame itself. <S> The key to having a regular tandem like the recumbent tandem in the video is to find someone who makes a crank with a freewheeling chain ring. <S> Like the old school Schwinn Suburban's from the late 70s with Shimano Positron FFS (Front Freewheel System). <S> Here's a link to a product for mountain bikes with a freewheeling chain ring https://dirtmountainbike.com/news/hxr-easy-shift-crankset-allows-change-gear-without-pedalling.html <S> With this part - or something like it - any tandem frame builder should be able to get you going. <A> I know of two solutions to your question - I'll post two brands, however they are not meant as an advertisement, rather as a starting point for further search. <S> One is used by Onderwater Fiets from Amsterdam. <S> Their tandems (and also more persons bikes) combine the stoker and pilot function and are meant for families. <S> There, the drive is permanent between the last bottom bracket and the rear wheel and other bottom brackets are somehow free-wheeled <S> so the passengers in front can pedal individually. <S> The other is <S> R&B Fly , not much can be found about those on the Internet. <S> Funny thing, I own one, hence the independent drive can be further inspected. <S> There, each chainring (single for the pilot; double, same size for the stoker) attached to the crankset is freewheeled, thus pedalling can be done independent. <S> Anyway, this bike awaits some renovation, I haven't ridden it yet.
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Thus, it is possible to build a tandem with independent drivetrains and with enough invention you can even build one where the cadence don't need to match (add a front derailleur and triple chainring to the pilot's seat for higher / same / lower cadence as the stoker).
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Shifting from a Tiagra BB to an Ultegra or Dura Ace BB? So after about 10,000 miles with my bike I bought in 2015 the bottom brackets have had enough. I need to switch them out, and considering they're quite cheap in retail and also does a lot of the heavy lifting I thought I could upgrade to a better series. And here's where my problem is, I have no idea whether a BB I'm considering will fit the bike or not. Here's the bike I have It's a 2015 Nishiki Hyper Pro The original Bottom Brackets are Shimano SM-BB4600, which seem to be the Tiagra series. ( https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/shimano-tiagra-4600-bottom-bracket/rp-prod67221 ) The Bottom Bracket I hope to upgrade to would either be Shimano Dura Ace BB-R9100 ( https://www.wiggle.se/shimano-dura-ace-bb-r9100-vevlager/ ) Or the Shimano BB-R60 Bottom Bracket (Ultegra, 6800/105 5800, Hollowtech II) ( https://www.wiggle.se/shimano-bb-r60-vevlager-ultegra-6800105-5800-hollowtech-ii/ ) Would you say these bottom brackets are interchangeable? And if so, for me who mainly use the bike for a high pace 12 mile commute (in sun, rain or snow) each day, what BB would you recommend? Never mind the price difference, I only focus on durability and performance. <Q> There are three current Hollowtech II road threaded BB designs (different model numbers of identical designs also exist). <S> BB-RS500 - this is the 44mm 16-notch cup design and weighs 92g <S> SM-R60 - <S> this is the 41mmm 16-notch cup design and weighs 77g <S> BB- <S> R9100 <S> - this is the 39mm 16-notch cup design and weighs 65g <S> These measurements refer to the diameter of the bottom bracket cup, which is only a concern during fitting/removal. <S> The bottom brackets themselves all fit the same frames. <S> Technically only the R9100 is considered 'Dura-Ace', the others are 'non-series'. <S> In any case they are all interchangeable - you can use BB-RS500 with an R9100 crankset. <S> In general weight savings are the primary driver of the higher BBs. <S> It would not be reasonable to assume that they are more durable. <S> However Shimano advertise that SM-BBR60 & BB-R9100 use 'small ball bearings'. <S> This is not necessarily a good thing, in that smaller bearings are weaker . <S> However there are more of them. <S> Still it would be reasonable to assume that the RS500 will be DIFFERENT in durability from the other two, but not necessarily worse. <S> My money would be on the RS500 if durability is a concern as the extra weight does not seem to be a bad thing in this context. <S> It is possible there are design differences such as seals between the models, but I would not assume this without evidence. <A> I personally wouldn't bother with the Dura Ace or Ultegra units, I'd put the price difference between those and a Tiagra or 105 unit into a better quality chain. <A> The bottom brackets are interchangeable as long as you go for the same bottom bracket type which in your case seems to be the standard english threaded road bottom bracket. <S> You can just replace it with a new Tiagra and will probably notice a good enough difference simply because it is new. <S> If you want something that will give more longevity, you'd have to go to a different system such as square taper which moves the bearings inside the bottom bracket and away from the rain. <S> But this would require changing out your crankset. <A> All Shimano HollowTech 2 chainsets have 24mm axles so the bottom brackets will be interchangeable. <S> The higher quality BBs have smoother more polished bearings which generally makes them last longer.
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However, I don't think that at your level of cycling that it would make much of a difference to simply upgrade the bottom bracket itself. All Shimano Hollow-Tech II road bottom bracket cups are interchangeable, that is they all have the same bottom bracket shell threads, fit in same shell width, have the same axle diameter and overall width.
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New brakes for 90s road bike I am riding 90s road bike with Shimano 105 dual-pivot brakes and brake levers, and 2x7 downtube shifters. Since braking becomes less and less reliable I want to replace both brakes and levers with something new. There's a plenty of good opinions on 105 br-r7000 but I am having hard time to find matching levers. I don't think there are any compatible shiftless levers. Can I go with cheaper claris shift levers or do I need to pay for 105? Bonus question: could I use 11 speed 105 shifters to work with 7/8 rear derailleur if I do STI conversation? EDIT: First, thanks for so many great comments. I see I have missed some important information: my goal is to improve braking performance - it feels underpowered and my rear brake lever has a crack already. I have already replaced cables, brakepads (swisstop) and my bike is running brand new wheels (frame was cold-set to 130mm) fit 28mm tires From what I have found, here are some interesting brake / lever combinations: Shimano BL-R400 ($35, brake levers, no shifter, SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR) Claris: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R2000 ($50, NEW SuperSLR) Claris+105: ST-R2000 ($130, NEW SuperSLR) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV) 105: ST-R7000 ($185, SLR-EV) + BR-R7000 ($75, SLR-EV) SRAM S 500 ($75 brake levers) + SRAM Rival 22 brake ($75) <Q> Most likely the problem is not with the actual brakes, but cables and brake pads. <S> Replacing these is very likely to fix your problems. <S> If you want to replace everything and keep everything in official Shimano spec, it seems that there aren't non-shifter brake levers. <S> The options are to install the expensive and useless shift levers, non-Shimano brakes or use a non Super SLR lever that results in slightly mushier feel. <A> There's no reason that old brake calipers should become less effective. <S> In the 1990s, we knew plenty enough materials engineering to make good brake calipers <S> and there's no reason for calipers to degrade. <S> In contrast, brake pads wear away and brake cables stretch and fray. <S> It sounds very much like those are the components you should be replacing. <A> Answering the bonus question - no. <S> 7 is decades away from 11 speed. <S> New 11 speed cassette <S> New 11 speed chain <S> New 11 speed freehub, which probably means a new 11 speed compatible wheel hub. <S> About this time add up the costs and see its an affordable number. <S> I doubt its a small number, so unless you have some ebay wins or some spare parts or a complete donor bike, it going to be expensive and therefore a bad spend. <S> On the plus side, if you do this there's a fair chance the front derailleur and chainrings will work okay in an 11 speed environment. <S> Or you could leave the downtube shifter on the left for the front mech and only use the STI brifter on the right hand. <S> May benefit from squeezing the front mech's cage slighty to account for the narrower chain.
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So if your OLD is 130mm you could throw money at the problem and replace Brake levers with STI Brifters New inner/outer cables Remove downtube shifters and fit two barrel bosses New rear 11 speed derailleur
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Could the E-bike drivetrain wear down till needing replacement after 400 km? The drivetrain (chain? gears?) of my E-bike started to make loud clicking sounds, with the impression that the chain is skipping over teeth. The gear switching itself still works well. I have tried to regulate the rear gear mechanism by adjusting the position screws but failed to make any improvement. The chain seems positioned properly. I started to think, maybe some parts would require replacement. Could this possibly be for the bike that has been traveled only 400 km so far? It was rather cheap for E-bike from the other side, and on flat terrain it was mostly used on the same (fastest) gear. Could some parts be already worn if low end? If so, which parts are likely to be? <Q> I have tried to regulate the rear gear mechanism by adjusting the position screws but failed to make any improvement. <S> That's almost never the adjustment that the rear derailleur needs. <S> Those screws are called the limit screws, and they set how far in and out the derailleur can move. <S> All they do is stop the derailleur from moving the chain all the way off the cassette on either side. <S> There's basically nothing that causes those screws to move on their own so, assuming they were set correctly when the bike was built, they should almost never need to be touched. <S> The correct adjustment is to use the barrel adjuster to get the correct cable tension. <S> That very often is needed on new bikes, because the cables tend to stretch a bit after they're installed. <S> Argenti Apparatus has already posted a video <S> so I'll not go into more detail than that. <A> Yes it can <S> and I've seen it before, but the problems you describe sound like issues which could be fixed with a simple gear tune rather than being caused by worn-out components. <S> The only one that I've seen wearing out that quickly could largely be blamed on the riding style of its owner. <S> He was a heavy rider and reasonably strong, so he was someone who would put more stress on any drivetrain. <S> He also had a tendency to ride with the motor on full assist at all times to allow him to get over any hills without having to shift out of the 11 tooth cog at the rear. <S> The load that he was putting through the drivetrain combined with the tiny cog taking all of the stress meant that components wore out very very quickly. <S> He came in for new chains and cassettes <S> (couldn't just buy a new 11 tooth unfortunately) a few times before I found a cheaper, more permanent solution for him. <S> We replaced the chainring with a much bigger one and put on a cassette with a 13 tooth as the smallest cog. <A> Even for a low end eBike using 400km will not wear out drivetrain parts. <S> If the chain was slipping over the sprockets, you would feel the cranks and pedals slipping forwards. <S> This tends to be sporadic and makes a loud clang or crunch. <S> If you are hearing a periodic ticking, It's likely the rear derailleur indexing needs adjustment. <S> From your post it sounds like you adjusted the limit screws rather then the indexing barrel adjuster. <S> Try following a derailleur adjustment procedure and see if that fixes the problem. <A> I finally brought the bike to technician who discovered that the gear switching cable does not move freely enough (gets stuck). <S> This is why I was not able find the good positions for any screws I attempted to adjust. <S> Regardless of my desperation, the components of the gear itself were not worn, hence I leave the accepted answer as correct. <S> As for now, when I discover the gear mechanism going crazy again, I simply shift the gear from highest to lowest few times, "exercising" the cable. <S> So far this always helps. <S> Maybe the problem will go away by itself. <S> It is also true that I almost never use any other gear apart the fastest one, because of the flat terrain, so the cable does not see much usage.
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The symptoms that do mean they need adjustment is that either the chain is falling off the top or bottom of the cassette (derailleur able to move too far) or that gear changing is just fine, except that you can't change into the smallest or biggest cog (derailleur not able to move far enough).
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How to commute by (electric) bike in excessive heat I am from India and this is beginning of summer. I rented an electric bicycle for daily commute during winter but now it is difficult to do during summer screeching heat. What should I do to continue my cycling activity in summer while being eco friendly? Updated: My office is 12km in one direction and it is not having much traffic. I generally leave to office at noon and it takes me 30-35 minutes to reach. <Q> You mentioned that you rented an electric bicycle, I am assuming you still need to put in efforts and the motor just provides pedal assist. <S> Most pedelecs are limited to providing assist only up to 25 km/h. <S> Beyond this speed, the motor is cutoff and the rider has to put full effort to maintain the speed. <S> If this is true for your case, you will get the best outcome by maintaing speed just below 25 km/h. <S> You also mentioned you leave office at noon, so it looks like you are only concerned with the ride back home. <S> If sweating is your only concern, keep your self hydrated and go on anyway. <S> Take a shower once you reach home and cool down for a few minutes. <S> Ensure you do not shock your body with too much of a temperature difference though. <S> The following are generic points which can help further. <S> Midday temperatures can reach 40°C in summer, where I live. <S> My work hours are mostly fixed so commute to office is easy. <S> See if you can adjust your timings for this season if you are working in shifts. <S> Along with a good pair of sunglasses, a wet handkerchief under my helmet and another around the neck are useful accessories. <S> For longer rides, I found that squirting small amounts of water on my face from time to time feels good. <S> Another advice i started following is to ride slow for the last 5 mins etc. <S> to allow my body to cool down. <S> When I have to go out in the afternoon or <S> if there is any uncertainty in the duration i might have to spend outside, i take the public transport. <S> Car/bike pooling is another option that is still quite eco-friendly. <S> I keep myself hydrated with plain water, and with sugarcane juice or tender coconut water for longer rides. <A> Put a rack on your bicycle, and buy a good quality pannier so you don't have a backpack on. <S> When cycling use light clothes, when at work go to the first toilet and dress whatever dress you need to have during work time. <S> If it does not work, just go slower, if going uphill take it super easy. <A> Keeping cool on an ebike is the same as keeping cool on a regular bike. <S> Lightweight moisture-wicking clothing and a ventilated helmet make a big difference. <S> Road cycling shoes are designed with parts made of a mesh material to allow air to flow through, keeping your feet cooler. <S> These shoes may not suit your ride, but the same principles apply. <S> Get some light, airy running shoes and some lightweight sport socks too. <S> Hydration is essential. <S> Freeze a half filled bottle the night beforehand, then top it up with cold water in the morning. <S> Using an insulated bottle like the Camelbak Podium Chill will also keep your water colder for longer. <S> Take small sips often. <A> While may not fit for every situation, simply pouring a bottle of water over head have solved for me the problem previous summer when I have unexpectedly ran into severe heat wave. <S> It can buy 10 - 20 minutes of time that may be enough for the 35 min ride. <S> Make sure water has good conditions to evaporate <S> (my helmet has really many holes). <S> I assume, the water will be warm, as everything around. <S> I have tried on myself and worked for me well. <S> I am however not a specialist; try on your own risk and be careful.
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Drink very cold water before starting to bring your core temperature down and bring a cold bottle of water to drink while riding too. I would still advise you to follow your instincts and slow down or stop if you are feel exhausted. I plan my rides to avoid the hotter parts of the day. Also watch your cadence, choose a gear that is not too hard or too easy so your body uses cardiovascular and leg muscles optimally. I switched to riding in cycling shorts/jersey and change of clothes at office instead of riding in work dress.
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Which tube will fit a -(700 x 25c) wheel? BF got a fancy new bike, and promptly punctured the inner tube, I’ve been looking in shops for the right size and getting in a right faff trying to find the right size. His wheel says on it -(700 x 25c) I know it’s a Presta Valve, and has to be 700, but I’m confused on the 25. Does the inner tube have to be 700x25c, or would a 700 x 18-23c fit? There’s a 700 x 35-38c which I’m sure is way too big, but I’m also concerned that the 18-23c is too small? Does the inner tube specs have to end in 25? Or include 25 in the numbers? Like say 18-28 would? (Just random numbers) Many thanks for any help <Q> The marking on the tire '700 x 25c' means a 622mm diameter rim, with a nominally 25mm wide tire. <S> ('700c' comes from an older French standard for wheel and tire sizes, it's very commonly used to refer to the standard road bike rims and tire size). <S> Inner tubes fit a range of tire sizes as they are quite flexible. <S> The two numbers denote the min and max tire sizes. <S> As long as you tire size fit in the range specified you are good. <S> Note that tires and tubes may also be marked with 'ISO 622' or 'ETRTO 622' <S> These are both equivalent to 700c. <S> You also need to get a tube with the correct valve stem length. <S> Tubes come with a range of valve lengths to fit different depth rims. <S> The length is not usually marked on the tube but is easy to measure. <S> The simplest thing to do of course is take the punctured tube to a bike store and simply ask for new tube that is compatible, for a 25mm tire. <S> Or get your BF to buy his own tubes (or learn how to patch them). <A> Any 700c tube with "25" in the range would fit - assuming the valve stem is long enough. <S> Deep-rim aerodynamic wheels require longer stems than older-style box-rim wheels do. <S> A 700 x 18-23c <S> would probably work fine, especially if the tire is a "small" 25. <S> That can be significant for clearance and tube fit. <S> And tubes are more than a bit flexible - obviously. <S> Flats are also an expected problem, especially with racing-type bicycles. <S> Almost everyone riding such a bicycle rides with a tool kit that can fix at least one flat tire. <S> Such a kit usually includes a spare tube - or two. <S> Because flats happen, and no one wants to have to patch a tube in the rain. <A> I think you have the hang of the 25 needing to fit into the range of numbers on the inner tube. <S> You're right that the 700 x 35-38 tube is way too big. <S> If you chose that one, it would be unnecessarily heavy and the bagginess of the tube would make it more susceptible to getting pinched when the tyre gets mounted. <S> Putting a hole in the replacement tube is never fun. <S> Now the 700 x 18-23 tube is a marginal case. <S> This time, the tube will be stretching up to and just beyond the size it is designed for, by 2 mm. <S> There is a difference of opinion on whether this is a problem or not. <S> There was even a semi-recent question on this site about whether a tube should be used at the low or the top end of its range and lets just say there are arguments for either case (cyclists can rarely agree on anything). <S> I would certainly use one of these if I didn't have an alternative <S> but I would prefer to have an 18-25 tube so that it wouldn't even need thinking about. <S> By using an 18-23 or 18-25, when you put a little air in to install the tube, it takes its size and shape without any bagginess and stays out of the way a little better when you mount the tyre. <S> So yes, it would be best <S> if there was a 25 in the size range of the tube and 700 x 18-25 tubes do exist quite readily if you can track down a shop with them in stock. <S> 18-28 would also be just fine of course. <S> TL;DR <S> I think you're on the right path, just facing a bit of doubt because you haven't found them in stock yet. <S> That said, 25 mm tyres are very common on road bikes <S> so I’d expect most bike shops to stock a compatible tube, keep looking and don’t be afraid to ask shop staff to direct you or dig one out from the stock room. <A> A 700 x 18-23c will fit on a 700 x 25c. <S> I got a 700 x 25c tire, and just had my first puncture on my new road bike last week. <S> Stock inner tube is 700 x 18-23c.
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These numbers refer to millimetres, the width of the tyre, and tubes can be stretched within reason to suit a few different sizes of tyre. A 700 19-25c tube will fit, as will a 700 25-28c. Bicycle tire and tube sizing is a bit of a crapshoot - one manufacturer's "25" can be a a mm or two larger or smaller than another manufacturer's "25".
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Any MTB trigger shifters that work with Shimano RD-4600? Are there any MTB style flatbar trigger shifters that are compatible with Shimano 4600 road components? <Q> SL-R780 and SL-R460 shifters are also listed by Shimano as compatible, so you have a couple more options than I first thought. <S> IIRC mountain bike <S> 10 speed shifters use a different pull ratio <S> so all are off the table, which you probably know hence the question. <S> Even the new 4700 shifters use a different pull ratio to 4600 <S> so don't be tempted to use the SL-4700 version. <A> Shimano use several pull ratios for their shifters/derailleurs 6-9 speed road <S> /MTB (aka standard ratio) & most 10-speed road 10 speed <S> MTB <S> 11 speed <S> MTB 11 speed road (and Tiagra 4700 (10-speed)) <S> 4700 is ruled out because it uses the 11-speed ratio. <S> This leaves 7800, 7900, 6600, 6700, 5600, 5700, 4600 as the road groupsets using standard ratio. <S> The relevant parts: <S> SL-4600/SL-4603 (2x10/3x10) <S> SL-R770 (2/3x10) <S> - this one requires a special front derailleur the FD-R770/R773 SL-R780/SL-R783 (2x10/3x10) - multi-release, but basically the same quality level as the cheaper R460/4600 <S> (choose based on colour) <A> At least Tiagra 4600, 4700; Sora R3000 and Claris R2000 have flar bar shifters available in their line ups, presumably for use on road-oriented hybrids, commuter or fitness bikes. <S> Drop bar shifters have the component code ST-[series code] , flat bar shifters SL-[series code] . <S> You can look all this up on the Shimano line up charts . <S> As an example, open the Rear Drivetrain chart and search for 'SL-4600', you'll see it's compatible with the RD-4600 derailleur.
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The Shimano SL-4600 are flat bar shifters for the 4600 road components. To figure out what is compatible with what, you can look at Shimano's compatibility charts . As 4600 uses standard ratio, this rules out 10-speed MTB (different ratio), and obviously 9-speed. SL-R460 (2x10)
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Sealant in inner tubes: what's the difference? I was thinking of converting my wheels to tubeless but my rims and tyres are not tubeless ready. I just recently learned that I can add tyre sealants into inner tubes. Can it prevent pinch flats like the normal tubeless setup? <Q> Putting sealant in your tube does nothing to prevent pinch flats. <S> (The long gashes caused by pinch flats would normally be too big for the sealant to handle, at least reliably.) <S> Putting sealant in a tube adds to the weight of the tube, rather than replacing it as in tubeless. <S> Likewise, with sealant in a tube, you have all the rolling resistance you already had with the tube, plus more energy cost to turn the wheel due to the sealant. <S> ( Bicycle Rolling Resistance tested this. ) <A> Pinch punctures are caused by the tube getting crushed between the tyre and rim when you hit a bump, as distinct from ordinary punctures, which are caused by a foreign object piercing the tyre and inner tube. <S> Tubeless prevents pinch punctures because pinch punctures are intrinsically something that happens to inner tubes, and tubeless doesn't have inner tubes. <S> However, the proper way to avoid pinch punctures is simply to inflate your tyres enough and avoid kerbs and potholes. <A> Inner tubes have stretchy thin walls. <S> Tyres in contrast are several times thicker and the threads of the tyre carcass prevent stretching. <S> The thin walls will lead to different aspect ratios of punctures in tyres and tubes. <S> A long narrow hole will much more easily get clogged by a sealant than a short wide hole. <S> In the latter case the sealant may remain not long enough in the hole to cure. <S> The stretchiness is an issue when the inner tube had been sealed. <S> When the sealant plugged the puncture only after the inner tube list most of its pressure re-inflating might inflate the tube again to conform the inside of tyre and rim. <S> This in turn stretches and tubs the tube's walls. <S> The material in the plugged hole also needs to stretch the same as the home becomes wider. <S> If the plug formed by the sealant does not the puncture opens again. <A> The time it takes to seal is a little longer, but it should do fine against most punctures. <S> It will do nothing for pinch flats. <S> And you must replace the tube with new sealant every so often. <S> It is not true that most tubes do not come with removable valve cores. <S> Quality bicycle products (the largest bicycle parts distributor in the country) makes tubes with all variety of valve options and wall thicknesses. <S> As well as most other brands honestly.
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I suppose it's possible that putting sealant in your inner tubes would prevent some mild pinch punctures.
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how do i put my bottom bracket back together I was bloody relived I could get the bb apart that I just rushed ahead and fogot to take note of how it came apart.DOH!! I now have the following dilemas 1)What size bearings were they again(dont ask where those bearings went) 2)which side does the longer side of the axle go in 3)which is the fixed cup and which is the adjustable cup Am guessing the one with more threads is the adjustable cup and goes on the non drive side. <Q> Here's a link to a comprehensive description of what goes where along with bearing sizes. <S> Can someone else help?) <S> http://bikeraceinfo.com/tech/cranks-cottered.html <S> Do you have a lock ring for the adjustable side? <A> In most cases the longer axle end goes on the sprocket side. <S> The right-handed ("normal") cup goes on the left side, and the left-handed cup goes on the right side. <S> With some BBs, both cups are "adjustable", to allow the shaft to be moved left or right a few mm to line up the chain with the rear sprockets. <S> But in most cases one cup is "fixed", meaning it has a sort of lip or flange on the outside end that determines how far it can be screwed in. <S> Usually this fixed cup (if either is fixed) is on the right (sprocket) side (but of course the threads of the cup might say otherwise). <S> So normally the fixed cup is screwed in until it's <S> flange is tight against the BB housing, and then the other cup is screwed in sufficiently to achieve proper bearing motion. <S> But it's unclear whether the flange is present on your cups. <S> It sorta looks like there's something on the left cup in your top picture, but it's hard to say for sure. <S> Note that, unless a cup has a flange on it so that it's screwed tight against the BB housing, there should be a lock rings installed to maintain the position of the cup and hence the adjustment of the bearings. <A> As to your bearings, it's hard to say. <S> If you managed to save even one original ball then you can take it to a bike shop to be measured and buy new balls to match. <S> Otherwise, take all three pieces to a friendly shop with knowledgeable people and they should be able to find the balls to fit. <S> (Of course, there's some chance the original unit used "caged" balls, but in general loose balls are superior. <S> Installing loose balls can be a cute little puppy, though, so if you're wondering about that task a separate question may be in order.)
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The two cups presumably have opposite threading, one "right-handed" (normal) and one "left-handed" (backwards). Quick summary - Long side of the spindle goes to the crank side, right - Fixed cup goes on the crank side, right - Bearings - see chart at link (after re-reading the chart I don't think it applies.
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Road bike handle bar adjustment to one weaker and shorter arm I have Erbs Palsy causing my left arm to be shorter and weaker than my right arm. Can the handle bars of a road bike be adjusted to accommodate this or is there another resolution I can consider? <Q> This of course compromises the position of your right arm to some degree. <S> If the difference is too great, I think you would need to look at a custom built handlebar. <S> This could possibly be made by cutting a bar 5-10cm to the left of the the stem clamping area, and adding a block that clamps the two together and moves the left side up and back. <S> If you are using a road bike drop handlebar, possibly you could adjust the bar position so that you ride with you <S> left hand on the hood position, and right hand on the drop position. <S> Presumably another concern is having enough strength in your left hand to operate the front brake and shifter effectively. <S> The majority of braking should be performed with the front brake so a stronger right hand is preferable to a weaker left hand. <S> If you can't operate the front shifter with your left hand you could of course fit a one-by drivetrain with only a rear derailleur and shifter. <A> For a small difference in reach, it could be a simple as adjusting the position of the hoods on your handlebar such that the left one sits a little higher and further back. <S> It's a change that will often look small, but it adjusts the angle of the lever at the same time, which amplifies the change too. <A> I used to regularly see a cyclist with one noticeably thinner and shorter arm. <S> He used a normal road bike and just had his weaker arm on the top of the bars all the time, while using all positions with the right one. <S> He also had an extra brake lever on the right. <S> He seemed to do quite well, even climbed very steep hills, but I've never talked to him. <S> If the difference isn't too great, you can try simply rotating the stem so that the bars will be slightly askew.
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If the difference is small, you could adjust the handlebars to be correct for your left arm by bringing them higher and further rearward by fitting a shorter stem with greater rise. A solution will very much depend on exactly how much shorter and weaker you right arm is.
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Is it ok to trim down a tube patch? I got a 700x18-23 inner tube that just got punctured. The small round patch on my patch kit is a bit wider than the inner tube itself. Is it ok to cut around the patch so it fits? An added question: when buying an inner tube, should i buy the smaller 700 x 18-25c, or the 700 x 25-32c for my 25c tires? <Q> Don't cut it. <S> Roll the tube sideways and you can glue first one and then other edge. <S> There are smaller patches that are made for narrow road tubes. <A> My experience has been the same as zeus; I've been cutting those bigger patches in half for decades. <S> However, I have had a couple of these peel up on the thick cut edge, long ago. <S> That led me to taking more time with such patches: making sure that the tube is well abraded and partly inflated, that the glue runs right to the edge, that the edges are firmly pressed into the underlying rubber. <S> With these precautions, I never lose air on a cut patch. <S> However, if I was stuck doing a roadside repair, I would always choose a whole patch. <S> (As an aside, why do they include those monster size patches in a bicycle tube repair kit anyway? <S> If a hole was big enough to need a patch that big, you'd never be patching it.) <A> You don't need to cut it just because the patch is slightly wider: you can wrap it around the tube. <S> Just before I put the patch on (that is, when the applied glue dried somewhat), I pump up the tube a bit so that it expands roughly to the size it would be inside the tyre. <S> This allows to apply the patch easier, esp. <S> if it's oversized, and also presumably avoids unnecessary stress (or rather, stretch) on the patch at full pressure. <S> That said, I frequently cut patches. <S> So I cut them in 3-4 smaller pieces. <S> I never had a problem with the sharp cut-off edge, whether I put it along or across the tube, even on the 700x23 high-pressure road tyres. <S> And I have decent statistics: I estimate roughly 10000 km with at least one patch cut like that.
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The typical kit contains several long patches which never get used in full: if you have a cut that big, it's better to replace the tube. The patch is thinner at the edges and cutting leaves a thick sharp edge where it can tear.
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Change Derailleur on CX Bike I have a Giant 2013 TCX Advanced . It has a Rotor 3DF, 36/46 Crankset and a SRAM XG1190 11x28 cassette. I'd like to swap the cassette for an 11-40 or 11-42. The guys at Wolftooth said: "..derailleur does NOT have enough capacity to handle an 11-40 cassette and a double chainring. You will have to be careful to not use small/small and large/large gearing combinations.." Can I simply buy a new long cage derailleur, such as Sram Unisex's NX 1x11? Edit: Thanks David and..Ouch! Never realised that! So, to keep it relatively simple (and less expensive): my best choice to get to at least 1:1 is to replace the 36 crankset with, say, a 32 and the cassette with an 11-32? ...Again using the roadlink from Wolftooth? Do I need to replace the short cage? Can I replace the 36 with a 30... (and install the 11-32 cassette?). <Q> You can't just get a derailleur and cassette to make this work the way you want. <S> The components are designed as part of a system with parts that are designed to work together, at least according to SRAM. <S> You will want a rear derailleur that matches your SRAM Red shift levers . <S> According to page 2 of this chart : You can get gearing of 11-32 or 12-32 with a range of front chain ring sizes if you use the mid length arm of the SRAM <S> Red 22 <S> rear derailleur. <S> This would be a derailleur and cassette purchase <S> (I'm assuming your bike came with a short arm rear derailleur) <S> that would get you closer to your goal, but not all the way. <S> To get to 11-40 or 11-42 and have all the parts match you'd have to go with a different parts group. <S> According to page 3 of the chart linked above the Force 1 or Rival 1 shifter, long cage derailleur and cassette will go to 42. <S> You'll also need a longer chain. <A> As David D said in his answer, mixing and matching SRAM components isn't really possible. <S> The 46/36 crank on that bike is a bit unusual (to me at least). <S> Normally there is a 16 tooth difference between rings on compact cranks (52/36, 50/34, 48/32 etc.) <S> I think the rotor cranks have a 110mm BCD so they should be able to take a 34 tooth ring. <S> a smaller small chainring combined with a 11-32 cassette will drop your lowest ratio from 1.28 to 1.06, and should stay within the total capacity of your rear derailleur. <A> To answer your follow-up question: So your main goal is to get easier gears? <S> The smallest chainring you can get for your crank with a 110mm BCD has 33 teeth. <S> The biggest cassette you can get for your rear derailleur (largest sprocket 32t) is an 11–32t. <S> If you keep the large 46 teeth chainring you’d already exceed the rear derailleur’s capacity of 32 by two teeth. <S> With a Wolftooth Roadlink you could go for a 11–34 cassette and a 42/33 chainring combination. <S> Another option are the so-called “super-compact” or “sub-compact“ cranksets which allow you to use 30 teeth chainrings. <S> See these articles for some examples: <S> https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/super-compact-chainsets-the-next-big-thing-for-road-cyclists-48974/ <S> , https://www.cyclingabout.com/low-climbing-gears-road-bike-crankset/ Be aware that for good results with super compact cranksets you have to move the front derailleur downwards which might not be possible.
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So officially a 44/33 (or 44/34) chainring combination and 11–32 cassette is the closest you can get to 1:1 ratio. As far as I’m aware a 1:1 ratio with your SRAM components is not officially possible.
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Should I cover my bicycle overnight while bikepacking? I'm wondering if all the moisture from being out overnight will damage my bicycle. I'm thinking 30+ days of being in use, with maybe a couple of those days being light rain.If the water will damage my bicycle, are there lightweight and compact covers that could be suggested? Or, would just wiping down the bike with a towel in the morning work to prevent damage? <Q> A little rain won't hurt. <S> Others may disagree but I wouldn't get a cover. <S> But, depending on how much rain there is and how long it lasts, when riding in the rain often the rain mixes with dirt/dust/sand and creates an abrasive liquid that can be hard on the drive train - and can even work it's way into bearings and cables. <S> Fenders help keep the water mixed with dirt that's on the road off of you and the bike. <S> I think of rain / water as a riding factor that increases how often I should do maintenance. <S> 30+ days on the road should include at least drive train cleaning and lubrication. <S> Here is a link to an article on bike prep for rain . <S> The article links to washing and lubrication articles. <A> The bike will be fine as is. <S> I have personally never bothered to cover, or do much maintenance to touring bikes (beyond wiping and lubing the chain occasionally). <S> If a bike was so delicate that a couple days of rain would render it useless, then it really shouldn't be used for touring. <S> Typically a couple days wet won't hurt most well maintained bikes. <S> About the only real concern would be if your chain was not receiving any maintenance during your tour, then, depending on the quality of the chain, some surface rust could form. <S> Even then, this would be largely cosmetic and of little concern functionally (i.e., next day's riding would break free any small amount of rust forming in moving joints). <S> But again, even here, it will be largely a cosmetic concern. <S> The only really concern for rust is in long-term storage or neglect. <S> Here extensive surface rust can eventually start bind moving parts together. <S> This however takes a long period of neglect (e.g., years). <S> If you use your bike frequently, this is highly unlikely. <A> I agree with the others saying that overnight moisture is not a problem. <S> However, you may wish to cover your handlebars and saddle (seat). <S> I like to use foam-pad grips on my touring-bike's handlebars, and these can absorb water, which is then transferred to your gloves/hands when you start out for the day. <S> It's only a minor annoyance for-sure, but an annoyance none-the-less. <S> I wouldn't consider carrying anything with significant weight just for this purpose though. <S> I always carry a couple of lightweight "bin-liner" bags when I travel (by bicycle or not) <S> in case I need to pack, say wet clothes or muddy boots, etc. <S> This is enough to cover your handlebars and one for the saddle - of just use a plastic bags you pickup on the way. <S> (Oooh, maybe a shower-cap (for your head) would work on the bike seat). <S> My seat is a plain-leather seat (Brooks) <S> , I don't let it get wet if I can help it.
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If you are in wet conditions for extended periods (i.e., weeks to months), then some surface rust can be expected (depending on quality and materials used on your bike). As Daniel indicates - overnight moisture on a well maintained bike isn't a concern.
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Stopping power of mountain vs road bike I have recently been restoring a Btwin Triban-500 road bike, given to me from a friend who had let it sit around for a few years. I've rebuilt the bike sparing no expense, new inner tubes, cables, levers, chain, cassette and everything else has been thoroughly cleaned (with dish detergent, degreaser and re-greased). It's been a fun project and I've currently got the brakes and rear derailleur connected. I've taken the bike for a spin around the block and I'm not happy with the braking power. I've got the brake cables tight and the pads are adjusted (i've done the same on my V-brake cheapo mountain bike and that stops quickly!). When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) but I take longer to stop than I'm perhaps used to. I mentioned my cheap mountain bike and those brakes are sharp (despite being cheap V-brakes). I've previously owned a hybrid with hydraulic discs and even half the lever was enough to violently throw me over the bars, I strive for brakes that powerful! In comparison to my mountain bike, I'd say I take an extra half second to stop (I did a very scientific test past a street lamp). It worries me because the mountain bike is one of the cheapest rubbishest bikes from Halfords, surely the road should stop before it? The mountain has 1.95 wide tyres and the road has 23mm tyres, will the reduced rubber be making a big impact (less friction) stopping the bike? or should I be able to get the rim brakes to perform just as well as the cantilevers? Thanks <Q> You have already answered your own question really. <S> When I slam the brakes on the wheels lock up(front and back) <S> but i take longer to stop than i'm perhaps used to. <S> If the brakes are strong enough to lock up the wheels they have plenty of power, but you have overcome the ability of the tyre to grip the road. <A> The maximum braking force is achieved when the tire is just about to loose traction and start sliding on the road surface. <S> Braking force decreases sharply as the tire begins to slide. <S> If you are locking both wheels, you are not getting maximum braking force, so try to modulate the force you are putting on the levers so that the wheels do not lock up. <S> You should be able to apply more force on the front brake lever as the deceleration of your mass pushes the front tire against the road harder, making it more difficult to lock that wheel. <S> Also be aware that the 23mm road tires have a much smaller contact patch and therefore less grip. <S> Higher tire pressure reduces the contact patch size, so you could try a lower tire pressure. <A> A review I read says the brake calipers are own-brand and describes them as "basic" and "average". <S> Possibly an upgrade there would help, but you'd have to decide if it's really worth spending that much money on a second-hand bike that only cost about £350 new. <A> You were definitely not locking up the front wheel or you'd be writing your question from the hospital because you lost all control, the wheels went out from under you and you fell. <S> You are also not the first one having this problem, the brakes seem poor (simply google "Btwin Triban-500 brakes"). <S> The google search results include videos showing how to do that (what did we do before the internet?).
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Exchanging the brake pads is worth a try; if that does not work mount better brakes.
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Is it possible to rebuild a a steel bike frame (to make it lighter) by welding aluminum tubes I have an old (80's I guess) road bike, it is heavy, I'd like to make lighter. is it posible to cut and replace the tubes on the frame by welding aluminum ones? <Q> I would not. <S> Instead I'd strongly recommend you look at buying the bike you want rather than chopping up a working vintage bike. <S> At best you'll come out with something worse than a replacement aluminium road bike, and perhaps slightly better or worse than the bike with which you started. <S> A used 2000's bike would be a far better bike than some chopped-up monster, and then you have N+1. <S> Steel and aluminium are dissimilar metals and welding is not possible. <S> You'd be looking at brazing them. <S> If you expected to weld them, then perhaps this is beyond your welding skill level. <S> If you are paying someone commercially to do the welding, then they will braze or silver solder the work. <S> Check for what their workmanship guarantee is as well. <S> You will have to paint the whole frame properly afterwards too, the steel parts need protection. <A> There is a lot more to a bike frame than just weight. <S> If there is one thing early aluminum frames taught us is that straight gauge aluminum rides harsh! <S> Modern aluminum frames typically employ hydroforming to tailor the compliance and ride characteristics of the frame. <S> This is why modern aluminum bikes ride a lot better than 90’s aluminum frames which were often too stiff. <S> You will likely be stuck with overly stiff straight gauge tubes and a harsh ride if you are able to get it to work. <S> Even if you successfully execute this frame chop up (Criggie’s answer overviews some of the issues - although I assume you would need to bond the tubes), I suspect the Frankenstein frame would have much worse handling as it will be difficult to keep the frame the geometry in check. <S> In all likelihood I suspect some frame dimension will be altered and handling will suffer as a result. <S> If you want to do it to see if it can be done, then giddy up! <A> I think your question is basically, "Is it possible to build a frame out of different parts?". <S> The answer is yes, because frames exist in the market, and most of them are built of different parts, so it's definitely possible to build them. <S> On the other hand, a bike frame being something that can get you killed if it suddenly fails, I most definitely would not build (and ride) <S> my own unless I were an expert in bike frame construction. <S> If you had to ask this question you are probably not such an expert. <S> So I'd advise you <S> just buy the bike you need instead. <S> Unless you're just going to hang the bike on the wall as a decoration, of course. <S> If that's the case, do what you wish with the frame.
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If the only reason you are doing this is to save weight, there are a lot of better options, including selling and buying a used aluminum bike. Getting a bond between aluminum and steel will likely be your hardest task.
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Why is an old chain unsafe? I recently took my bike in for a service and the mechanic urged me to replace my chain, potentially at great cost (might need a new wheel). He said it might jam or pop off. He couldn't explain to me why my safety might be threatened but repeatedly asserted that it would be threatened. So, why exactly is an old stretched chain a safety issue? How exactly might I be more likely to crash because of this? <Q> A worn, stretched chain will accelerate wear on sprocket and chainring teeth. <S> There will then be a greater chance that the chain will slip off of and override the sprocket teeth as you apply a power stroke through the crank. <S> When this happens the pedal and your foot suddenly slips downward, which could throw you off the bike, especially if you were off the saddle and standing on the pedals. <S> A new chain is not usually regarded as a 'great cost'. <S> They are not cheap but not expensive either. <S> You probably do need a new cassette though. <S> Whether you need to replace the chain and cassette depends on your situation, your bike and how you ride. <S> If you have a quality bike, do a lot of miles and want an efficient drivetrain you absolutely should replace it. <S> If you do a few casual miles occasionally and are not experiencing any problems you can probably get away with leaving it as it is. <A> As chains stretch, they wear the chainrings and rear cogs and the teeth on them start to become pointed and eventually don't grip the chain so well. <S> The danger is that, when you push on the pedals, the chain slips from tooth to tooth on the chainring, which turns with much less resistance than you were expecting – you just have the friction of the chain slipping against the teeth, rather than the resistance of you driving the bike forwards. <S> When the pedals suddenly turn much easier than you were expecting, you can very easily fall off the bike, especially if you were pushing hard, which is the time the chain is most likely to slip. <S> Any time you fall off the bike while you're just cycling along in traffic is a potential under-a-truck moment. <S> To some extent, you can mitigate this by cycling gently <S> but there's always the risk that you try to pedal hard in some kind of emergency situation, forget that you can't do that, and come off. <S> Having said that, there is something a little confusing. <S> Maybe you just misunderstood your mechanic, but there's no reason that you should require a new wheel, unless that's completely independent from your need for a new chain. <S> However, you may well need new chainrings and new rear cogs: because the stretched chain wears them to match itself, they'll also skip with a new chain. <S> Unless you need a high-end chain (which you'd probably know about if you did) <S> I'd expect a new chain to cost about 10 dollars/pounds/euros ("about" means the currency unit doesn't matter much among those), new rear cogs to be about 25 and new chainrings maybe 30ish. <S> Plus labour. <A> That is explanation why it is unsafe. <S> As others have pointed out it is economically unsound not to change it since it will cause damage on other more expensive parts. <S> Something like insisting not to change oil in your car because it is expensive (and you might need to change filter with it!), or brake fluid. <S> So while it is great to want understand things about your bicycle, you might want to give a bit more benefit of doubt to your bike mechanic. <A> Chains have a clearly defined specification for wear. <S> Once the length of a specific number of links is longer than some maximum tolerance the chain should be replaced. <S> If the chain is stretched, it is a good investment to replace it. <S> A decent chain should be around $20-$40. <S> They are very easy to replace . <S> No, another wheel is not necessary. <S> You do not have to buy a new cassette. <S> Severely worn chains will eventually wear rear cassettes and cause performance issues though, so it is a thing to consider. <S> Is there a safety issue? <S> Maybe the chain will break and jam up your rear wheel causing a crash. <S> Maybe it will break or slip and your foot will slip off causing a crash. <S> Probably mostly a scare tactic, but not completely imaginary.
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Well, if chain is worn, it might snap when you push pedal strong, which will cause your leg that was pushing to drop down very fast, and as consequence you could loose balance and fall. There's no reason you need a new wheel, unless there are other problems of course.
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Why is doping illegal in Tour de France? It seems like a self-evident truth, but I've never heard the rationale behind it. Why is doping illegal in Tour de France? I assume it is related to the safety of the riders? Then why don't they simply limit the doping to forms of doping and medical treatments that have been peer reviewed and demonstrated to be relatively safe? Yeah, sure, it can never be completely safe, but that can be said for the sport itself, and any other sport. Riders make contact in Tour de France, they fall, there are inherent hazards to the sport. This is true for almost any sport. <Q> You have to draw the line somewhere. <S> If you allow all doping, then the winner will be the one most willing to sacrifice their long-term health to use the most drugs and maximise performance enhancement. <S> Then why don't they simply limit the doping to forms of doping and medical treatments that have been peer reviewed and demonstrated to be relatively safe? <S> They do this to a certain extent. <S> One of the three criteria for adding a drug to the banned list is that it represents a health risk to athletes. <S> There are also some substances which are allowed up to a certain threshold. <S> Asthmatics (and non-asthmatics if they feel like it) for example are allowed to use a salbutamol (ventolin) puffer, but if an unreasonable amount of salbutamol is detected, then it is deemed as being a performance enhancer instead of being used for health. <S> The two other criteria for banning a drug are about fairness. <S> They are "If the substance is performance enhancing" and "If the substance violates the spirit of the sport". <S> If a substance meets two of those three criteria, it can be added to the WADA list of banned substances. <S> You can read more about this here . <A> Allowing Doping defers the risk of participating until after the end of the event. <S> In normal situations, risk taking that does not pan out is normally associated with losing, so taking risks is self limiting (people who take too many risks lose too often so do not make to to the top levels of sport) <S> Allowing doping means the risk taking involved in the sport will no longer be self limiting. <S> The top level sports people will be those who are fastest, regardless of the risks they are taking. <S> Any down side of risk taking is so too far in the future to affect the outcome. <S> The question then is no why is doping <S> banned, the question is what is sport trying to identify. <S> If its purely 'the fastest' and we discard morality, then banning doping makes no sense. <S> As to allowing drugs that are deemed safe by some authority - that is a slippery slope as someone has to define and enforce a line - where does that line sit, what is safe, what is peaceable, what morals are being used to guide these decisions? <S> Much easier, and therefore safer to enforce 0 tolerance. <A> The root of Tour de France was a celebration in human suffering and perseverance, with anything that undermines this frowned upon. <S> In the original incarnations riders were self-supported including having to do all aspects of bike repair: <S> On the way down from the Tourmalet, Christophe was hit by a race vehicle, and his fork broke, rendering his bike unusable, and the rules said that he had to repair it himself. <S> He walked more than 10 km down to the next village, and found a place where he could repair his bicycle. <S> He worked on it for over three hours, being watched by race officials who made sure that he was not helped by anyone. <S> When Christophe asked a small boy, of seven years old, to work the bellows, he was fined with ten minutes. <S> 1913 <S> Tour de France <S> The ability to persevere was what brought people to watch and follow the original Tour. <S> Over time, the race evolved, and some rules relaxed, but perseverance of the human spirit still remains the top commodity of the race. <S> Arguably, anything that makes the race itself "easier" in terms of apparent suffering frowned upon by race promoters. <S> This is likely why the race has had such a complicated history with doping. <S> They can't be seen as directly supporting doping, as it could appear to diminish the perseverance component, but at the same time they realize the physiological demands are insane so they have at times turned a blind eye. <S> As long as the race still appears "fair" and the riders are shown hurting, then everyone so to speak is happy. <S> These historical constraints and nods to tradition make it unlikely that the race will ever suddenly embrace bold new approaches. <S> The interest has never been in "fairness" but in ensuring there is a good show of suffering and perseverance.
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If we are looking for the fastest, within moral boundaries, then banning doping is required to protect athletes from themselves.
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What to expect from an e-bike service? My e-bike manufacturer recommends a service every 1000km. Tomorrow I'll bring my bike to the shop where I bought it for the first service. I already had a mini-service for free at around 300 km in which I don't know what they did exactly, probably some fine screw tuning. My bike is a city bike built by a reputable manufacturer. I ride it nearly everyday to work. The city has some serious hills. What can I expect the shop where I'll bring my e-bike will be doing for this ~1000km service? (And will it be the same for every 1000km services in the future?) <Q> The first free service is usually just to account for "bedding-in" from new. <S> They originally build up and tune the bike with all new components, but as you ride it for a few months, it's common for cables to bed in a little more snugly to their fittings as well as for bearings to push into the frame a little more, requiring the components on either side to be tightened up. <S> The bolts on the bike may be a little loose from all of this, so it's always a good idea to get it fully checked over once it's been ridden for a while. <S> After 1000 km, it would be checked over for all of that as well as for the general wear and tear. <S> Components requiring cleaning and lubricration will be inspected along with any bearings. <S> Depending on motor position, ebikes might wear out a drivetrain more quickly or require wheels to be trued more often. <S> If you know how to clean and lubricate your bike and measure the chain wear, it's unlikely to need such regular maintenance, but the recommendations tend to be based on the worst case scenario. <S> Someone who rides in all weather, locking it up outside during the day and just puts the bike back in the garage every evening without cleaning it can extensive maintenance within 1000 km. <S> To minimise maintenance required, there are some basic things to do at home. <S> If the bike gets dirty, clean it off, taking care not to leave it soaking wet for a long time afterwards. <S> Regularly (every 300km or so) degrease and relubricate your chain and pump up your tyres to the correct pressure. <S> An honest bike shop will usually take a look at a bike to tell you whether any more work is required at the time. <S> Unfortunately it can be hard to know how honest your shop is of you aren't an expert, so you should ask your friends for their opinions on the local shops <A> Most bike shops offer several levels of service depending on what you instruct them to do. <S> For example: Basic: <S> Check tyres, brakes, adjust gears <S> Intermediate: <S> Basic + check/true wheels <S> Advanced: As intermediate + check/re-grease all bearings as appropriate <S> In addition there can be extra 'add on' services such as bleeding hydraulic brake systems and servicing suspension components. <A> After 1000km there shouldn’t be any major wear&tear <S> so no replacements (chain, battery, brake pads etc.) should be necessary. <S> I guess they’ll <S> Check/tighten all bolts with a torque wrench <S> Adjust shifting cable tension <S> if necessary Adjust (mechanical) brakes if necessary <S> Check spoke tension and wheel trueness and true it if necessary. <S> Clean and lube the chain if necessary Check for bearing play and adjust if necessary Check for obvious damage <S> If the bike was properly built initially there shouldn’t be anything wrong after "only" 1000km. <S> If this service is expensive I wouldn’t do it. <S> It’s mostly just a check if anything’s gone out of adjustment. <S> After 2000 to 3000km you’ll need a new chain and possibly brake pads. <S> After 6000km you’ll need your third chain and cassette <S> and it’s <S> probably a good idea to replace cables&cable housing. <A> Here is the list from the service I got from my local store <S> Perform drivetrain inspection including chain ring nut tension <S> Clean front chainring area Check bearing operation Check motor mounting bolts <S> Check spoke tension Check suspension operation Lubricate chain Check and test operation of all sensors Check battery <S> mounting <S> Visually check wiring harness Clean speed sensor and check tension Plug in diagnostic tool Check system for errors Check system for software updates <S> Print report <S> Inspect all critical components Check and adjust tire pressures <S> Your store may have a different procedure but that sounds typical for any ebike service. <S> Every 4000km is closer to how often I would do it.
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Perform gear tune up Perform brake inspection If you know how to do some maintenance yourself like cleaning and lubing the chain as well as replacing it when it gets worn you shouldn't need to take it in for a service every 1000km. Most bike shops offer different maintenance services and list what each service entails.
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Fitting question for first trekking bike - differences in stack and reach I understand this might be a pointless/dumb question, but as an bike freshman, I am confused: Trying to select an entry level first bike (cross/hybrid) and so far I'm between two of them (local EU brands)I'm 176cm, inseam 74cm. For the first one, i fit better on their 18'' model and on the second one on their 19''. I tried both of them on a LBS but unfortunately not for an extensive ride - just a tour around the block. However, their frame geometry is quite different, having:Stack:518,2 mmReach:383,5 mm And having:Stack: 497,7 mmReach: 394,6 mm I enjoy upright riding position and I favour stability and comfort more that speed. With these in mind, am I wrong to assume that the first one is a better option for me? Will the difference be too noticeable? Thanks a lot. <Q> Impossible to tell you whether a couple of centimeters either way will make a bike fit you better. <S> A slightly lower bar may actually suit you better than a higher bar, even though you value comfort over speed. <S> You might feel slightly more stable with a little more weight on the front wheel. <S> Honestly you just need to ride the bikes back to back and make a decision as to which you feel comfortable with. <A> That's a mere 2 cm difference in stack and a 1 cm difference in reach. <S> TLDR summary : that small difference isn't going to matter. <S> Get the one you like. <S> Longer answer : <S> And that difference in stack and reach is well within the range that's easily addressed by changing stem length and/or angle. <S> Stack height pretty much only really matters if it's too high to allow you to get as low as you want. <S> Reach is also affected by the saddle position, and that's affected by the seat tube angle. <S> Of those two bikes, the top one appears to have a slightly steeper seat tube, placing the saddle further forward. <S> On that bike, you may find you want to have the saddle further back on the seatpost, or on the bottom bike you might want the saddle further forward. <S> But again, the differences are slight - a cm or two at most, and well within the range of what you can address by moving the saddle. <S> And off-topic : <S> Be aware that saddles that seem great on a short ride can wind up feeling like you're riding a fence post, a spike, or a bowling ball on a longer ride. <S> Pay attention to that, and be aware you might have to swap saddles on whatever bike you chose. <A> If you are relatively new to bikes, as you learn to ride you will probably shift one way or another. <S> While bikes like the two above are sufficient for anything, the "you" a couple of years from now might have shifted more to mountain biking, or more to road biking, or maybe towards some other discipline. <S> Not knowing what the future will bring, just buy what you like best now - the best choice is the one that will keep you biking. <A> I would have thought that was a reasonable idea, but the fit can be affected by the stem choice for a start and the photos show quite different stems. <S> I think that stability and comfort for a given style of bike is more affected by other numbers like wheelbase, rake/trail etc as well as tyre size and choice. <S> At some point they are just numbers though. <S> If someone had asked whether bike a or b would suit them based on the numbers, the answer would be to go test ride both bikes. <S> You are fortunate enough to have ridden both, and most likely welcome to test them both again and find out IRL which one you prefer. <S> That’s the way to find out! <S> I have no idea of the stack and reach of my bike (except the frame size) <S> but I know that I love riding it, <S> that’s what counts.
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Unless you know for a fact that one of the bikes is the exact fit you want (and you can't know that until you've actually ridden the bike a good bit...), you're probably going to have to adjust the fit in the future anyway. Since you don't want to get low, it doesn't really matter for you.
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What are the benefits of purchasing a complete bike from a respectable brand? (Road cycling) I've been into cycling (almost) my whole life. I've been riding BMX for over 20 years and since 5-6 years I've been doing a lot of road cycling. I ride contests, crits, TT's,... I've been looking to get a new road bike for some time now. I outlined some requirements that this bike should have. With that out of the way I started looking around for my options, there are a wide variety of bikes that handle my needs. But coming from BMX I am used to building my bikes from the ground up. Changing parts as they broke, building completely new setups,... The only complete setup I ever got was the bike that got me started. Apart from price, what are the benefits of purchasing a complete bike from a respectable brand? Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 9.0 DI2 for example, this bike meets the requirements and falls neatly in my budget. If I would start building my bike it would end up parts wise like the Aeroad. What not to take into consideration: I am technically able to build and maintain most bikes on my own. This should not be an issue. <Q> Warranty - buying one bike from one supplier means the whole thing is under warranty. <S> Stuff like internally routed cabling simply works better when the parts are all specified on the one build. <S> Compatibility <S> - Its not your problem to make sure that a front mech and a chainring set match up. <S> A complete bike will work from new as it is supposed to with no fiddling and fettling. <S> Set price - a complete bike has a set cost. <S> On the other side, the parts you need might be in your possession already so have zero net cost. <S> Timeliness - you want to ride your new bike, not spend time assembling and troubleshooting it. <S> Suggestion : Since you can afford a high-level bike like a canyon, and time is valuable, just buy it and ride it and spend the time on maintenance. <A> Basic compatibility issues won't arise. <S> You don't have to make sure the inner chainring won't hit the chainstay, for example. <S> There really isn't much other than that, but at the level of component you seem to be aiming for (DI2), any problem you find as you assemble parts is likely to be expensive to address. <S> (And yes, I realize you stated "Apart from price..." and even bolded it, but for anyone else who reads this: <S> it's almost impossible to acquire your own set of separate parts to build an entire bicycle and beat the price you'd pay for an equivalent complete bike. <S> Economies of scale usually make the complete bike a lot cheaper.) <A> You don't have to have in depth knowledge of all the various component standards and compatibility issues - which takes some time to learn. <S> You don't have to have a workshop space, bike stand, general tools and a number of specialized tools. <S> Some of the specialized tools required are expensive - torque wrench, bearing press etc. <A> What I'm getting from your question is: You have solid bicycle knowledge and skills <S> You have large budget <S> You enjoy spending time building bikes <S> You enjoy hunting down the right parts <S> You like trying out one part and then swapping it out for another to see how different things work <S> You value the experience and skills you will build as you go through the custom build process <S> Based on these assumptions for you there is no benefit in buying a complete bike. <S> You place high value on the experience of building bikes so all the benefit is in the spending time researching, buying, assembling, riding/testing, trying new things process. <S> I miss the days when I was in your shoes :)
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New bike frames may have anything from one year to lifetime warranty, but often have a rider about "must be assembled by an authorised and qualified bike shop" Integration - all the parts will physically fit into the frame quite well. A build has an unknown end cost because you may not find the parts you need at a fair price.
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Anything wrong with using MTB saddle on hybrid bike I'm been having problems with fit on my hybrid. When I spend around 1hr on the saddle I start to get pain in the left prostate. I can no longer ignore the problem because I plan to do C2C. Right now I need to do some training because I'm not that much better than a couch potato. I have a feeling I won't make it otherwise. The thing is I have two other mountain bikes and I don't seem to get the same problem. Shall I just get a MTB sadddle? <Q> This is fine. <S> There is not really any hard "Hybrid" and "MTB" saddle categories. <S> The cycling gods will not smite you down for committing bicycle components miscegenation. <A> This goes both on and off road. <S> If there is any difference in saddles designed for these it is that MTB gear is sturdier and road gear lighter and may have breathable surface material. <S> The saddle that come with a hybrid may be any of these or something in between. <A> There are no hard and fast rules - saddles are completely personal to the rider. <S> The only numbers that count are "width" because of how far apart your sit-bones are, and total weight because some people like a light bike. <S> Another often-overlooked point is that the pants you wear absolutely affect your saddle comfort too. <S> Tighter cycling shorts will make your body parts sit more comfortably and predictably over time, reducing chafing. <S> I personally use a woman's specific saddle on my road bike despite being a bloke, because it was the most comfortable available at the time
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Usually there is a relationship between saddle style and riding position: the lower the handlebars, the narrower and flatter saddle. There's very little that is discipline specific in bicycle saddles, so there is no reason to not use MTB saddle on a hybrid if it works for you.
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What does 'tubeless ready' wheelset actually mean I know this may sound daft or simple, but can someone tell me what is meant by 'The wheelset is tubeless ready' on an bike advert. I have asked in a shop and had 2 answers ranging from 40 pounds to 300 pounds to change the tyres to tubeless. Surely if the advert say's tubeless ready it means a simple and inexpensive conversion to make you tyres tubeless. Any help is much appreciated. The advert states' Answer Atac AM, 15x110mm/12x148mm, Tubeless Ready' <Q> It's ready for tubeless in the sense that all you have to do is unseat one bead, remove the tube, add a tubeless valve, add sealant, re-seat the one bead, slosh the sealant around, and go. <S> Manufacturers have gotten pretty good in recent years at making this actually work as planned, i.e. the factory tape job is good. <S> That's not an absolute given though; it's always a good idea to look at it and make sure the tape application and coverage are something you want to commit to. <S> What's a little inconsistent with the term still in my experience is whether the bike comes with valves in its goody bag. <S> Some do, particularly if it's got a named prefab wheelset, but a lot don't, so if you for example want to make sure you're ordering everything you need to tubeless it right away, get valves too unless it says it includes them. <S> If the term is being used for a wheelset, I would take that to mean it comes with tubeless tape. <S> For a tire, it just means it's a tubeless compatible tire. <S> (If you look around and read old things you might see some reference to "tubeless ready" meaning a tire with conventional non-sealing sidewalls, as opposed to UST tires with their extra sealing layer for use without sealant, but nobody really cares about distinction anymore.) <A> The bike was likely assembled with conventional tubes and tires on wheels that accept tubeless tires. <S> If you were to go tubeless it would require new tires and valve stem assemblies. <S> Adding sealant would be a good option during assembly, plus the shop's labor charge. <A> Bikes often come with rims that can accept tubeless tires, but with tubed, non-tubeless tires, likely to save cost but also to allow the purchaser to swap tires easily if they wish. <S> If conversion involves new tubeless tires, total cost will be cost of 2 new tires plus labor time to fit them, which is significantly more involved than fitting tubed tires. <S> Low quotes are probably for fitting tubeless tires which you already have only. <S> £40 (I assume UK?) sounds implausibly low. <S> Maybe that's per wheel.
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In the context of a new bike spec list or marketing copy, it's most commonly understood to mean a wheelset and tires that are both tubeless-compatible, plus the rims already have tubeless tape.
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Why aren't road bicycle wheels tiny? My understanding is that air resistance is where most of the pedal power goes to at high speeds, and that this is a concern not least for the wheels: What you pay for in a road bike wheel is aerodynamic and/or light wheels, not so much to other losses like rolling resistance and bearings. So if air resistance is the thing to optimize a wheel for, the wheel should be tiny. Obviously in width, but also in radius, because even shortening the length of a surface reduces boundary layer drag, and the top half of each wheel is basically a surface that moves faster than the rest of the bike. Has anybody thought of this? Postulate: The faster angular speed of a small wheel is irrelevant to air resistance: If the forward speed is given, every point on the wheel at a given fractional wheel radius has a speed compared to the ground that is independent of the wheel radius. In other words, shrinking the wheel does not speed up any point on its surface; you just get less surface. Which should be good! Some speed record bikes have had small wheels, including the current record holder . <Q> Assuming a bicycle with a conventional rider position, the rider cannot be positioned any lower because there has to be a certain amount of clearance between the cranks and the road. <S> As wheels shrink, the frame has to extend downwards to reach the axles, so you are not really removing structure that causes drag, you are replacing it with something else. <S> There are a host of other practical reasons, for instance: <S> As the driving wheel decreases in size the gear ratios have to increase to maintain the same distance travelled for a turn of the cranks. <S> This is why folding bikes have huge chainrings. <S> Small wheels are less stable, as anyone who has ridden a Razor scooter knows. <A> The boundary layer drag (skin friction) is pretty small at large Reynolds numbers and even if still significant, most of it does not happen on the wheels, but also on the frame and on the rider, so the wheel causes only a small part of the drag (and even of the boundary layer drag). <S> As explained in other answers, all other practical factors favour the design of bicycles as we know them. <S> Especially for off road bicycles the aerodynamics is not very important <S> and you can see how bike are designed for handling other capabilities. <S> Road aerobikes don't really choose to use smaller wheels (although 650 mm wheels are readily available). <S> What is MUCH more important to the drag of the wheels is the tyre width, because that directly changes the form drag. <S> The wider the tyres, the larger the form drag. <S> Other forms of drag are obviously different. <S> I DO know that racers use larger tyres for today's races, that does not invalidate the argument (I use 40 mm tyres myself for touring and gravel). <S> But thin tyres DO offer lower aerodynamical ( not rolling) resistance. <A> You also have to count for stuff you can get over - that's why 29-inch wheels are so popular with the mountain bike crowd these days. <S> They suck at cornering, and that's why they came up with 27.5's. <S> Smaller wheel diameters are great for accelerating quicker, hence the popularity of 650C wheel sets for triathlons. <S> Scooters have tiny wheels because they ideally are ridden on paved roads or sidewalks, and can therefore get by without hitting any major potholes or bumps. <S> At some point, people got together and determined an ideal threshold for wheel size that would prevent accidents by their sole ability to get over stuff. <S> That's the best explanation I've got!
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Smaller wheels have higher rolling resistance, at some point that become significant compared to aero drag. For bluff bodies, and a bicycle (and a rider) is a bluff body, the decisive part of the drag is the form drag , not the skin friction.
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Can I grease a crank spindle/bracket without disassembling the crank set? A bit of history: the grooves on the spindle are partially destroyed/skewed by cycling with a loose crank, so I applied a lot of force to a hexdriver to get the crank arm on. Now, it would be quite hard, if possible, to disassemble it. I got the bicycle on a garage sale for a price of two cups of coffee. The crankset began to creak. Can I get a grease on it without disassembling the crank set? I tried leaving the bike laying on a side and pouring WD-40 on the side of crankset. It helped for some time, because it's fluid enough, but WD-40 is not a proper grease; it needs to be reapplied once in few days, and then it makes it worse because it also acted as a solvent for the original grease. Maybe there's a grease I can heat up to about 80°C to make it fluid enough to get into the crankset and curdle inside? I don't have access to special the tools like crank arm remover, or whatever else could be needed. I only have generic wrenches, screwdrivers and hexdrivers. I would highly appreciate NOT receiving these answers/comments: invest time and money -- buy proper tools and disassemble it. I recognize this is probably the right answer; but it's just a creak of a bicycle that costs me two cups of coffee. replace the whole crankset. I'm pretty sure I can get a few more hundred miles out of it and replace it later. Plus, it costs as much as a new (used) bicycle - more than this whole one, - plus the time and tools to install. take it to a bicycle shop. I live in a very expensive area; it will probably cost me more than buying a new bicycle. WD-40 is not a (proper) grease, use the right one. Thank you. <Q> I'm going to offer the contrary answer - why not fix it properly? <S> Summary : <S> Your spindle/crank interface is damaged, so the crank has been forced onto the spindle and is now at a high state of torque. <S> And the rest of the bike is OK. <S> So the worst case is that your BB needs replacing, and that the crank arm is damaged enough to need replacing too. <S> Replacing the BB with a nice new cartridge will give you a new spindle/axle, and it will give you a much better pedal feel. <S> You will have to match the new spindle to your crank's interface, being square taper or octalink or whatever. <S> You won't know if the crank's a writeoff till you get it off. <S> So pick a time when you don't need the bike for a bit and can work on it. <S> Consider that had you changed the BB for a new cartridge, the crank arm would have gone on easier and not been damaged. <S> By cramming it back together, you've made your problem worse. <S> Do it right sooner, not postpone till later. <S> Just cos the bike had an initial cost to you of 2x coffees, doesn't mean its junk. <S> You could look for another donor bike to salvage some cranks, or check Ebay/craigslist/gumtree/etc. <S> Note that your left and right crank don't need to match, they just need the same fittings and same overall length. <S> As for getting the current one off - leverage will help. <S> If the bolt shears then the stub will be in the BB spindle/axle which is trash anyway, and the new one will come with replacement bolts. <S> You don't need a LBS for this <S> - its dirty but its not hard. <S> The only tool that will be odd is the fitting for the ends of the cartridge. <A> Given the parameters of the question... <S> The goal is to get a better lubricant than WD-40 into the bottom bracket. <S> Two suggestions: <S> It's much better than WD-40 but not as good as grease. <S> I have a can of spray lithium grease. <S> It's thicker than oil and you might be able to spray something like that into the bottom bracket between the axle and the cup. <S> Heating grease changes it's characteristics. <S> My thought is I'd rather use motor oil than heated grease. <S> Keep your eye out for a different two-cups-of-coffee bike from a garage sale. <A> <A> No. <S> It seems that you have already done your homework and know why you don't want to fix things properly or why WD-40 doesn't really work. <S> But you had to ask, didn't you.
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Its confirmed that the spindle is damaged and likely that the crank arm is now damaged as a result. Do the "leaving the bike lying on a side" thing and use motor oil. i spray garage door lube thru the small drain hole at the bottom of the crank with the bike upside down, works fine
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Map of water taps to fill bottles Are there any maps of taps where I can fill my water bottles (bidons) on long rides. I live in Scotland, but would be glad to learn of the existence of such resources worldwide. <Q> Openstreetmap with the cycle layer certainly shows some. <S> Here's one <S> I was very grateful for in the French Alps. <S> OSM is not complete <S> but it's open source <S> so you can improve it <S> (I haven't added any taps, but I have added bike parking). <S> This is a good approach, as it also shows cafes and shops where you should be able to buy water if there's no tap (flipping between the "standard" and "cycling" layers can show more facilities). <S> In the UK, the cafes on Cafe Network will almost all be very willing to fill bottles for customers - I normally plan on a cafe stop every few hours and take the opportunity then. <S> Pubs and coffee shops generally will too. <S> Some chain fast food places won't - they say they can't. <S> This is problematic late at night when nowhere else is open. <S> A possible fallback in the UK is churchyards - there's generally a tap outside, but no guarantee the pipes aren't lead. <S> It's possible to query OpenStreetMap for drinking water by modifying the following link to give an appropriate bounding box (the last 4 comma-separated numbers): <S> https://tools.wmflabs.org/query2map/featurelist.php?key=amenity&value=drinking_water&types=points-areas-infos&BBOX=-2.9914,51.5871,-1.32,50.81 changing value= <S> drinking_water to value= <S> water_point returns some more (e.g. next to canals, for filling boat tanks). <S> Of course some are on private land. <S> I've seen campsites and schools showing all their water points. <S> But that's fairly obvious from zooming in. <S> The bigger downside is that many are missing. <A> A switch on most restaurant soda fountains will dispense plain tap water. <S> I also filled up at local parks and roadside rest areas. <A> In the UK, we used to pay tax for public services, now everything has been privatised but we still pay loads of tax. <S> There was a time when most railway stations, bus stations, high streets all had drinking fountains. <S> All of these have been removed, for people to buy plastic water and then throw in landfill. <S> I had thought at one point the access to free clean drinking water was a defining mark of a civilised nation. <S> On a less pessimistic note, using a map to find water courses, coupled with a handheld water filter, or bottle filter should see you right somewhere like Scotland. <S> They are surprisingly affordable, and some claim to remove 99.99% of bad stuff, seen inline filters for drinking bladders.
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In the USA free tap water is virtually universal, and I was able to fill up my water bottles at any fast food restaurant and convenience store I stopped at, all over the country.
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How to cut derailleur cable housing This is a job I will do very rarely, so I would prefer to avoid buying a specialty tool, if possible. Unfortunately I don't own a dremel. Side cutters just mashed everything and did not cut at all. Are there any other methods you can recommend? EDIT: I think this is different from the brake cable housing question, in that side cutters will get the job done with a little effort on brake cable. They have a much harder time cutting the parallel strands of derailleur cable housing. EDIT2: I asked the guys at the store where I bought the housing to cut it to length for me and they didn't mind. :) <Q> I see you don't want to buy the proper tool - do consider that while some are silly expensive, there are also reasonably priced alternatives. <S> Brands like Birzman and X-Tools are a third the cost of a Park or Pedro's tool. <S> Another option is to use a rotary cutoff disk in a tool like a dremel, or even a full-sized cutoff wheel in a grinder. <S> If you have one already, then this is a no-cost. <S> To buy one would cost more than the right cable cutter tool as already suggested. <A> This is definitely not the best method, but it has always worked for me. <S> I have managed to cut brake cable housings with this method which are much more difficult to cut with this method than shifter cable housings. <S> You may want to finish up the result with a file to get a really smooth cut. <A> I've got a couple of high-quality cable housing cutters, and they never do a decent job of keeping housing (brake or cable) <S> nice. <S> I cut with them, then Dremel off the end nice and square (bending the housing to match its line on the bike, so the end is square under those conditions) and then, while it's hot, I run a cable back and forth in the plastic inner lining to keep it open. <S> You did the right thing for someone not wanting to own tools, but in the end, there's no substitute for the right tools.
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I usually just fix the housing in a vise (very, very little pressure!) and use a saw very carefully (only pushing so that the teeth of the saw cannot really bite into the housing material).
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Trainer for recumbent bikes I've been thinking about getting a trainer for my M5 CHR. Wahoo Kickr seemms nice, but they do not recommend it for use with recumbent bikes.Is it just because they lack the experience or would it be bad for any particular reason? Anyone got good experience with other trainers for their recumbent bikes?(Preferably zwift compatible) <Q> The main reason that they don't recommend it for recumbent bikes is that it's much harder to make a universal fit for recumbents. <S> Regular bicycles have far fewer compatibility issues regarding frame shape at the rear dropout. <S> Some recumbent bikes will have tubes that mean that they simply won't fit on a kickr. <S> If you can get access to a Kickr, the only way to know if it will fit is to remove the rear wheel and try to put it on the trainer. <S> If you can fit it on the trainer and your frame has ~5mm of clearance (to account for flex and wobble as you ride) to the trainer, then there is no reason that it can't be used. <A> Cyclops makes a "smart" fluid 2. <S> We've got 2x Cycle-ops fluid 2s in our house, one a decade old, the other newer. <S> Both fit every bike in the house, mostly recumbents, but also several uprights. <S> I've had them on: Volae Team, NoCom, Catrike Expedition, Rans Rocket, Bacchetta Giro 26 + uprights. <S> The cycle-ops used to sell an adapter (just an extension) so that it could be used with a 20" drive wheel as well. <S> We have also used them on several other standard fluid trainers that have passed through the house over the years, and they have all worked perfectly fine. <S> They've got no tech on them, and they're reasonably priced. <S> You can usually find one (or similar) on Craig's for less than $100, and there's not a ton that goes wrong with them. <S> On our floors they sometimes rock and make a creaking sound (but they'd do that on an upright, too). <S> Grab a rubber weight-lifting or treadmill matt for underneath <S> and you'll probably be happier. <S> The direct-connect ones even look like they'd work with the chain and chainstay lines of the M5 CHR, Kikr included, but if they're giving a blanket "no recumbents" recommendation in order to CTA, I wouldn't bother handing them the $1100. <A> The trainer went belly up <S> so I purchased a Tacx NEO2 smart trainer from Garmin. <S> Used it for 1 winter with the 2 wheel bent then sold the 2 wheel bent and bought a recumbent trike. <S> Using the trike on the Tacx with no problems at all. <S> The rear mechanism on a rear wheel drive recumbent bike/trike is the same as an upright bike. <S> I have 11 speed Shimano cassette, 11 speed Shimano derailleur, etc. <S> All standard components. <S> I mainly use Zwift and Rouvy and neither one knows or cares if I'm on an extremely comfortable trike or an upright. <S> Yes the avatar on these programs is an upright. <S> I don't care, I'm comfortable. <A> Common sense tells us if the bent fits on the trainer there is no discernible reason for a smart trainer to fail on account of it being attached to a recumbent. <S> I wonder how such a ridiculous notion like that got started. <S> The circuit board failed on my trainer. <S> A new circuit board costs about a 100 dollars and it was out of warranty. <S> I gave the trainer to my brother in law. <S> He'll fix it and have a fairly decent trainer for a 100 bucks. <S> I went with a wheel off trainer because of higher accuracy and more bells and whistles. <S> Bells and whistles help soften the boredom of indoor riding.
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The stresses on the rear hub of a recumbent are not so different that a recumbent will be able to fit on the trainer, but should not be used simply because it's a recumbent. I like the fluid trainers because they've got a nice power curve that just requires upshifting and going faster to increase resistance, and they're fairly quiet and troublefree. I used an Elite Qubo smart trainer on my 2 wheel bent for 4 winters.
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Can I ride a big bike? I am a MTB beginner and I just bought a used Giant stance 2. I knew from the beginning the bike is bigger than I should have, but it was a good deal. The bike frame is XL and I am 6’. Based on Giant size tables I should be 6’3”. I feel slightly stretched, but I don't feel bad on the bike, but I also haven't been on the bike for a long time. What is your opinion about the bike size? I heard most people saying that is better to buy a smaller bike than a bigger bike, but my concern is if I will be able to ride the bike and have fun anyways. I suppose I will have to put more effort in stuff like manual, wheelies, but I should still be able to do that right? EDIT: I am 24 so no longer growing. <Q> There are a few things you can do. <S> I would be very surprised if the XL is that much too large it cannot be setup to be ridden by you reasonably comfortably, if not ideally. <S> A bike that is too large may make some technical trails a bit more challenging, so how successful you are on that bike will depend on the type of trails you ride and what you expect to be able to achieve. <S> Aim here is to reduce the effective top tube length. <S> Here a few $0 Cost, completely reversible things you can try. <S> Move the seat forward on the rails. <S> 'Slam' the stem - put the stem on the steerer first and put thespacers on top (can arrange stem and spacers any way you like). <S> If riser bars rotate the bars a little. <S> If really wide bars, as is popular these days, move the controls and grips inboard. <S> This narrower position effectively 'lengthens' your arms. <S> Other things that might help if the above fails that cost a bit, but not a lot of money. <S> - Flatter bars - Higher bars - Shorter stem <S> - Longer seat <S> If you find a position that works, you may consider trimming the bars or replacing with narrower ones. <S> I would hesitate to recommend trimming the steerer as unlike bars and seat posts (which can be relatively cheap to replace), The forks are an expensive bit of kit. <S> Personally I suggest play with the above setups, get the bike as comfortable as you can. <S> If you find after a few months its limiting your riding, it probably best to sell it and book this one up to experience. <S> A bike that does not fit well is never a bargain. <A> It's also roomier. <S> If the reach seems too long, you can adjust your saddle fore-aft or change your stem to a shorter one. <S> Some though, find big bikes too lazy and sluggish, especially if they're the type of riders who like to do jumps and tricks. <S> As long as you're not too finnicky with your bike fit, not riding steeze like a dirtjumper, and also given more saddle time, you'll get used to it. <A> Yes, you can ride a bike that's bigger than the standard for your size. <S> I ride a 60cm track/road bike when I 'should' be riding a 50-55cm. <S> That measurement is taken from the bottom bracket to the top of the top tube (around where it connects to the seat tube, essentially the length of the seat tube <S> is the 'size' of the bike). <S> I've had to make adjustments in the front to compensate for how deep my seat post is buried (it barely protrudes more than a few inches) by cutting off less from a new fork to accommodate the longer head tube, adding spacers, flipping my stem upside down, as well as positioning my saddle closer to the front. <S> This makes for interesting control and dynamics of my high steel horse.if <S> it's wrong, I don't care about being right. <S> As long as you're comfortable and safe, you'll be fine.
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Riding a bike bigger than your typical size is good if you want a tame, planted, stable bike. If the seat won't go low enough, trimming the seat post will help.
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Why do freehub and cassette have only one position that matches? When I'm installing cassette on my freehub, I need to make sure that the spaces align correctly. That is, there are 10 splines on the freehub and 10 corresponding splines on the cassette. My first attempt was just to put it in any of 10 positions but then I found out that one groove on the freehub is slightly bigger and the corresponding spline on the cassette matches it. So in fact, there is only one acceptable position. Why is this like this? Why aren't all of the splines the same size? Naturally, I managed to replace the cassette, so I ask this out of pure curiosity because to me this "feature" seems annoying because I need to look closely to match corresponding splines, so I thought there must be some smart reason for this behaviour. <Q> Early cassettes (Suntour Accushift and Shimano Uniglide being some commonly encountered examples) weren't like this. <S> The splines were all the same and there was no hunting for the little spline or big gap. <S> To summarize a bunch of history, these cassettes were current at the same time as early indexed shifting. <S> Accushift and early Shimano SIS both functioned, but not all that well by modern standards. <S> The cog teeth on some of them had various thinned out or axially twisted bits to act as a primitive shift aid, but they were substantively like the freewheel cogs that came immediately before them. <S> Arguably the key innovation in Shimano's entire history, the first Hyperglide cassettes were released in 1989. <S> Hyperglide uses a system of mapped-out chain exit and entry points (the different profiled teeth on modern cassettes) along with pickup ramping on the sides of the cogs to facilitate smooth shifts that demand a bare minimum of finesse on the part of the rider. <S> It's the piece of the puzzle that made indexed shifting start working really well, and has been universally copied. <S> Hence all modern cassettes only go on one way. <A> Nathan's answer above is great - just a minor ELI5 as it may be a little technical. <S> The full cassette functions as a unit, not just individual cogs, with additional grooves / shaping to assist gear changing (look at the sides of the cogs and you will see they are not flat). <S> The 'fits one way only' feature ensures that these gear changers work properly. <A> If you consider the cassette as a whole, it doesn't really matter how it is installed on the freehub. <S> What matters is each individual cog is aligned with relation to other individual cogs. <S> Why it is important (re: shifting) is described in Nathan's answer. <S> But, as you know, only the inner three large cogs are typically riveted together, while the rest is freely replaceable. <S> Thus, we need these freehub splines to keep the teeth alighed properly.
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If the cogs in our cassettes were all riveted/welded together at the factory into one solid non-disassemblable "supercasette", then we would not need these differently shaped splines on the freehub. But by nature, in order for it to work, the cogs have to be in an as-designed position relative to one another.
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Unidentified items in bicycle tube repair kit What are these items in my bicycle tube repair kit for? I found them in several repair kits but I do not know what to use them for? <Q> They are tube patches. <S> Here’s the contents of one of my kits: <S> From top to bottom, we have, plastic container tyre levers to remove the tyre crayon to mark the location of the puncture on the tube sandpaper to roughen the tube surface prior to ‘gluing’ rubber solution to attach the patch tube patches with a black front and a white backing. <S> Remove one patch from the sheet then peel off its backing before you apply. <S> chalk to sprinkle over the finished patch to prevent sticking to the tyre after reinstalling <S> Now you know what they are you can get instructions online or in my case on the back of the tube of rubber solution <A> Those are blocks of various sized rubber tube patches stamped from a single larger sheet of rubber. <S> Individual patches are torn off the block as needed. <S> Patches are applied over holes in the inner tube, bonded to it with de-vulcanizing solution, which causes the polymers in the rubber patch and tube to join to one another. <A> They can be used to temporarily repair a tyre. <S> If you (for example) go over a stone which tears a hole in your tyre as well as your inner tube. <S> Simply fixing the inner tube will leave it <S> exposed so it will puncture again. <S> Place this tyre patch in between the inner tube and the type hole. <S> Hopefully it will last long enough to get you home... <A> Some tires are tubeless and required different patch kits.
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These are patches for inner tubes found inside the tires.
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How to improve/restore vintage Peugeot bike, or is it even worth it? I've got an old Peugeot bike I've been riding, and I like it but I'd like to make it better for long rides. I'd like to replace some parts, the steel rims aren't good for braking and I'd like handlebars / brakes that are more comfortable. I can try grabbing random used parts and replacing them, or buying new ones, but I'm wondering if its even worth it. Would I be better off just buying a new bike, or what parts would you recommend I use to improve this? Thanks! <Q> This is often called "the slippery slope of knock-on upgrades" which can get expensive quickly. <S> There are two simple and relatively cheap upgrades to try. <S> Replace the brake pad inserts with modern compound Kool Stop. <S> They will brake better than the original ones, which may also be a bit hardened with age. <S> There will be a model that fits your brake pad holders. <S> A relatively invisible upgrade. <S> Replace the bartape with something a bit nicer. <S> I think you've got the thin nylon strap stuff, and its come away from the corners. <S> Try some new modern material/retro style. <S> But wrap it properly and it will be more comfortable. <S> If you change the wheels to get aluminium braking track rims, then the brakes may not reach - modern wheels are 622mm and yours are probably 630mm or maybe 635mm. <S> This would mean new brakes, which may mean new brake levers as well as new tyres and tubes. <S> See how the knock-on effect works ? <S> Other option is to sell it on and buy a more modern bike. <S> Someone would love to own that loverly `80s beauty. <A> Upgrading older bikes (or even new bikes) requires and investment in time and money: learning about all the different standards in use and parts compatibility, buying special tools, scouring Ebay for parts etc. <S> However, if that is your idea of fun then by all means go ahead. <S> Just beware that 'a few upgrades' can be a quite complicated endeavor when dealing with older bikes. <A> If you are planning to ride the bike, replace the handlebar stem
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If you just want a reliable, more comfortable, more efficient and safer bike - just buy a new one. You might choose to remain with white to match the brake levers, or a more dirt-hiding black to match the saddle, or some other colour that appeals.
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Rear tire dragging on rim brake arm Just bought a used bike- it's great, but needed new brake pads. Got new brake pads and now the tire is rubbing on the brake arm. I do not understand! The front brake is with new brake pads is the same make/model and is amazing in every way. Is there a solution to thin? Is there something about brakes I don't know??? The tire is 700c x 25mm 2005 Trek 1500 WSD <Q> You need the top of the brake arm to move up and give you some clearance. <S> Options Get thinner brake pads <S> Cut the new brake pad down some so that it will be thinner <S> If there are any washers between the back of the brake pad and the brake arm remove them (I can't tell from the picture) <S> Hopefully all you need to do is remove some washers. <A> If you was to remove the pads would you get sufficient clearance on the centre? <S> If so get thinner but longer pad blocks. <S> They look to be a fairly chunky pad block <S> but it could be the angle of the image playing with my eyes. <A> I have a 28mm tyre on a bike that should max out at 25mm. <S> Its a really close fit, and I have a similar problem to you when the brake quick release is open - namely when the brake pads are further apart, your brake arms are wider and the metal up near the pivot point is in a different place. <S> In your case the new unworn pads are thicker and pushing the arms apart, eating up the last millimetres of clearance. <S> The proper fix would be to put a smaller tyre on, but that's annoying. <S> In my case I ended up filing the center of my brand new tyre where the mold join lines were, which gave more clearance. <S> In your case, look at your brake pads and see if you can swap around or remove some washers. <S> The Drive Side brake pad holder seems different height to the left one, but that could be an artefact of the carpet pattern in the background. <S> Another option is to add some wear to the brake pads with a file, to provide a little more clearance. <S> You might want to buy some thinner low-profile pads for the back wheel and save those ones for the front wheel where you're not having any problems. <A> In relation to David D.'s answer and Daniel R. Hick's comment, it's most likely both. <S> If your dropouts look like this: The tyre size is too big, but the old, thin pads made it look and feel like it fitted. <S> It's either you slice your newly bought brake pads thin and be done with it or think long-term and replace it with an actually proper-fitting tyre. <S> BUT, if your dropouts are the horizontal/angled/adjustable ones, like these: <S> then you might wanna adjust your wheel axle to the back just a bit. <A> Did you remove the wheel to install the new brake pads? <S> Maybe now the wheel is in a different position. <S> To correct this, the wheel needs to be pushed slightly down, while closing the skewer lever. <S> Just check that the nut is not massively out of the dropout.
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It looks like your new brake pads have pushed the right brake arm out moving the top of the arm down, touching the tire.
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Is disk brake effectiveness mitigated by tyres losing traction under strong braking? So I understand that disk brakes are superior to rim brakes and this leads to faster stopping particularly in wet weather. I have wondered though, in wet conditions when you wish to stop as fast as possible doesn't the superior stopping effect of the disks result in the tyre losing traction ? At some point the benefits of being able to stop the wheel moving is presumably overcome by the tyre being unable to maintain traction on the road surface. I'm assuming a decent quality tarmac surface and commuter type tyres on a day that is wet enough that rims and rim brakes would be compromised to some extent. I realise there are a ton of variables here but I presume somebody has looked into this and I was curious to know. Thanks. <Q> Ideally, the brakes should be able strong enough to break traction otherwise you will not be able to brake maximally (i.e., just before the threshold of losing traction). <S> Rim brakes can do this, even in wet weather, if set up correctly. <S> The real advantage of disc brakes in wet weather is other aspects of how the brakes perform. <S> From personal experience, disc brakes have superior wet weather performance for the following reasons: <S> Modulation: as stated above maximal braking is when you are on the threshold of losing traction. <S> Good hydraulic disc brakes are typically renowned for their feel and modulation (i.e., enacting finite changes in brake force), letting you approach those thresholds with more control. <S> Response time: while a well set up rim brakes can generate strong braking forces, the response is often delayed in the wet due to the need to first clear the rim of water before effective braking can occur. <S> In a similar manner disc brakes must clear water from the rotor, but this tends to occur much more quickly due to rotors being better protected than rims and the slots in the rotors giving water a place to go when the bake pads are engaged. <S> This gives disc brakes responsive brakes even in down pour conditions. <S> Wear/longevity: <S> rim and disc brakes both use some type of brake pad, and in both cases these brake pads will wear faster in the wet. <S> Structural integrity: Disc brakes have a dedicated braking surface (i.e. the disc rotor), where as with rim brakes the braking surface is built into the rim. <S> Wearing the braking surface of rim brakes can eventually result in rim failure without regular inspections and replacements. <S> Where as rim brakes require a wheel replacement or rebuild, with disc brakes wheels should theoretically last longer as it is fairly trivial to replace a disc rotor. <S> Furthermore, damage to a rim will affect braking for rim brakes, but not disc brakes. <S> In dry weather and/or clean conditions there is arguably less of an advantage to disc brakes compared to a well set up rim brake. <A> You are correct that the maximum deceleration is limited by the maximum force the tires can generate against the road surface. <S> If the brakes can cause the tires to reach that point (usually just before the tires start slipping) they have sufficient maximum power. <S> The problem is the braking force required to keep the tires at the point they generate maximum deceleration force changes as the bike velocity and road surface changes. <S> What makes brakes powerful in a real sense is the ability to modulate the braking force to keep the tires at the changing point of generating maximum deceleration force as the bike slows down and stops (this is essentially what automotive ABS systems do). <S> Disc brakes initially appeared on mountain bikes, where there are a lot of advantages aside from braking power: they remove design constraints on the wheel rims and front and rear suspension structures and provide for better tyre clearance. <A> Another advantage of disc brakes is they are made a lot more powerful than needed to lock up the front wheel, allowing low hand pressure to get to wheel lockup. <S> I can lock my MTB rear wheel with just my pinky finger. <S> This is a significant advantage mountain biking, and I imagine in some road situations, where you need to have close to maximum braking for extended periods. <S> The reduced effort means you less fatigue <S> so can brake for longer while maintaining modulation, giving control. <S> Anyone who has mountain biked with good brakes and gone to a bike with a cheap set of brakes <S> appreciates just how much faster good brakes allow you to ride (without crashing). <A> In my experience if the brakes are well set up, rim brakes are very effective for little outlay. <S> Disc brakes I find are more controllable and I find myself rarely using the front disc unless I need to endo / 90 spin or 180 spin the rear round. <S> Both have advantages and disadvantages. <S> I do see a lot more bikes now coming standard with discs <S> so maybe that's what the future holds.
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That said, brake pads associated with rim brakes tend to wear proportionately faster due the rim braking surface being closer to the road causing it to get dirtier quicker than a disc brake rotor which is close to the wheel hub.
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How to verify bicycle by frame serial number I have a problem to verify the model of the bicycle. I have frame number - A4D58277 but can't check anywhere in Google, by which company was made. <Q> Basically, the answer to the title question is "You can't. <S> " There's no global database and each manufacturer just uses whatever scheme they want. <S> Unless you've already narrowed it down to a couple of candidate manufacturers, the serial number won't help you. <A> The logo on the downtube shows some similarity to the logo on this bike: https://www.ccrracing.de/road-rahmen/13-ccr-attack-carbon-rahmen.html <S> I can’t find a similar looking model on that site <S> but you could contact them at least to ask about the serial number. <S> It seems like the best place to ask, in the first instance. <S> It looks to me like it <S> ’s a metal frame, road style, but current models on that site are all carbon and mostly TT frames. <S> Could be relevant to the question, maybe it’s an older model <S> , I don’t know the history of the company. <S> We’re now looking at Quantec, so I’m parking this link here for posterity: http://www.quantec-bikes.de/page/road/race_sl.html <A> @Swifty I have written a letter to https: //www.ccrracing.de/road-rahmen/13-ccr-attack-carbon-rahmen.html <S> but they didn't approve and said "Its looks like a quantec bike"
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Googling CCR is hampered by a model of Fuji bikes with that name, the band Creedence Clearwater Revival and a model of Koenigsegg which all seem to be more famous.
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Rusty chain and back cassette – Replace or repair? Reference of the chain: KMC Z51 Reference back freewheel: Shimano TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Reference of the bike: BTWIN Rockrider 340 I recently acquired a second-hand bike and decided to repair it:The chain and the freewheel cogs are in very poor condition and rusty as you can see in the pictures below: The bike has not been used for a year by the former owner. As I don't have that much knowledge about it; I was wondering: Should I change the chain or repair it? as for the freewheel, can I even repair it? If I have to repair them how can I achieve it? <Q> As long as the crank arms, chain and freewheel turn freely and all as one. <S> The surface rust will not prevent it being fit for purpose and should wear off with use and some decent lubricant. <S> they are not interchangeable <S> so avoid disappointment ordering a part that will not fit. <S> The part you would need to order if you decide to is a 7speed freewheel not a 7speed cassette. <A> Try it! <S> Does the chain move at all when you move the cranks? <S> If some parts are rusted to a solid chunk it is done for. <S> You may apply some wet lube, see if it moves. <S> If it is rideable it may rub off surface rust. <S> If the rollers are rusted inside and out doesn't flex properly replace it. <S> Likewise for the cassette. <S> The rust might be superficial and it might work still. <S> I shouldn't push too hard wherever a snapped chain might get you into danger (eg sprinting in traffic). <S> But that's probably not what you bought a rusted decathlon bike for. <S> Of course you may always replace it. <S> A seven speed cassette and chain often cost in the range of 10 €$£. <S> It's perhaps a good idea though to ride the bungee and see if it's worth investing into repairs. <A> Surface rust on sprockets and chain is not a problem, rust between chain plates and rollers is, as it prevents the chain from articulating properly. <S> Apply liberal lube to chain, spin cranks <S> , wait to let lube soak in, spin cranks. <S> Manually go around the whole chain flexing the links. <S> If they are all relatively free moving you are OK. <S> You may need to repeat the process. <S> If there are particularly sticky links you can't get rid of replace the chain. <S> The other concern is chain wear and elongation (wear increases the play at each roller allowing the chain to elongate). <S> Chain wear gauges are cheap, or have your local bike repair shop check it. <S> If it's substantially worn replace it. <A> Was working on a bike not quite that bad yesterday. <S> Starting off the chain was frozen solid. <S> Sprayed the chain <S> (BEFORE oiling!) <S> with oxalic acid, then waited a few minutes. <S> Most of the links freed up nicely, but there were about 8 stubborn ones. <S> Since I didn't want to wait overnight for the ox acid to work further, or remove the chain so I could soak it, I used two pairs of pliers to flex the stubborn links, then a dash more ox. <S> Freed up nicely and worked smoothly after a treatment with the chain washer. <S> (Which leaves me wondering if I could have used ox in the chain washer.) <S> (Note that I also used ox on the rusted seat post and several other components. <S> Melts the rust nicely.) <S> Ran out of time working on a bollixed brake lever, so I didn't get to test ride it. <S> Next week...
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Without clunk's, slipping or sticking at any point there should be no need to replace any of it. You could always try a wire brush to remove surface rust without having to disassemble any parts and also just for reference if you do decide to change your "cassette" be advised that is a freewheel and not a cassette
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Need help replacing old cassette and chain I have an old bike with a cassette and chain that needs replacement. The problem is that I can't identify what kind of cassette it is or how to remove it. There are 14 teeth on the smallest cog and 28 teeth on the largest cog on the cassette. How do I remove it? There are only two nuts. Will the bike take any Shimano chain (that matches number of links of the current chain?) From comment: I took the wheel off, i watched the video from Parktool but couldn't see any groves inside the cassette <Q> If it's 5 speed, it's probably a freewheel rather than a modern style cassette that slides on a freehub. <S> Park Tools do a tutorial video on how to change one: <S> Additional information can be found on the Park Tools blog <A> Regarding the replacement chain and freewheel (as many people have pointed out you have a freewheel not a freehub and cassette): <S> Chains are sold with more links than needed then cut down to size and joined, so you don't buy one with the proper number if links. <S> Chains are specific to the number of sprockets on the freewheel/cassette, you will need a 7 speed or less chain (5, 6 and 7 speed chains are the same, the differences start at 8 speed). <S> Here's a Park tool Video on chain sizing and joining https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing <A> If you are replacing the freewheel anyway. <S> I would personally not buy the tool as you can easily remove a freewheel with a light hammer and a punch or screwdriver if you don't have a punch/drift. <S> Look at the two recessed dots on the face of the freewheel. <S> Place the punch on one of the dots and strike down it in a clockwise direction it should easily come loose without damage and save you buying a tool you may never use again. <S> As long as you don't hit too hard you won't cause any damage to it and if you are replacing the freewheel <S> anyway it seems the best option to me. <A> Having spent some significant time taking bits of bikes apart when I was younger, my experience is the opposite of David's. <S> My experience is that freewheels are very reluctant to move when applying a hammer and drift to the "two dots". <S> Especially if the wheel and freewheel have had years of being married together, they'll seriously resist divorce. <S> And if you hammer in the wrong direction, that plate with two dots is a cover for the ball races and you'll have a floor full of tiny ball bearings. <S> I'm going to give you a slight frame challenge instead. <S> The spokes are probably in a bad way, and you don't really want to be stuck with an old-style freewheel anyway. <S> If you're planning on chucking the freewheel anyway, why not chuck the whole thing and buy a decent new alloy wheel and cassette? <S> No need to remove anything. <S> Don't forget that you want a new chain as well, whatever you do. <S> They're pretty cheap anyway. <S> You'll need a chain remover tool if you haven't already got one, of course.
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The interface between hub and freewheel is standardized so any 5 speed freewheel with the appropriate sprocket sizes will work. Chains wear into the geartrain, so if you change the cogs then you should change the chain too. If this is an old bike, I would not be at all surprised if the wheels were steel, or at best some low-grade alloy.
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Could I use a front rim to build a rear wheel? Could I build a rear wheel using a front rim? Edit: Follow-on question Spokes stick out of nipples when rebuilding wheel reusing spokes. <Q> In the days before factory built wheelset, rims where produced without being specifically for front or rear wheels. <S> On most general-use standard bicycles it is still that way. <S> The only difference was the spoke-hole count. <S> But many rear wheel rims today are no longer symmetrical, meaning the right side is different from the left. <S> This is mainly due to the fact that with 11 or even 12 speed cassettes the dish of the wheel is very unsymmetrical and the angle at which the spokes reach the rim makes the spokes puts a lot of pull on the rim. <S> This is being countered by positioning the spoke holes differently for the drive or non-drive side. <S> Although 36 holes was and still is the normal count on most bicycles, you could build wheels with 32 or 28 spokes, those being mostly used on front wheels, mostly for weight saving or aerodynamics. <S> Nowadays many rims are specialised for their use and designed for front or rear wheels in mind, mostly for aerodynamic or load bearing abilities and often with different spoke counts. <S> Although with the advent of disc brakes the spoke count on many front wheels is on the rise. <S> Disc brakes put about the same stress on front wheel as the drive puts on the rear. <S> Side-note: In the old days also front wheels would be built with thinner often double-butted spokes (1.5-1.2-1.5mm), while rear wheels had thicker (2mm) straight spokes. <A> Yes, but, it's a lot of work and you should consider whether it is cheaper/easier to buy a rear wheel already built. <S> Wheel building is a skilled job and does require tools most people don't own and or wouldn't be cost effective to purchase for a one off wheel build, which I can only assume this is. <S> Not to mention the fact that if op does not know whether it is possible to build a wheel up as a front or rear shows they are not trained in wheel building. <S> That's no big deal. <S> Most people couldn't build a wheel myself included. <S> So basically don't get in to a specialised job if you lack basic knowledge. <S> In simple terms wheels are available cheaply online, ready built by a trained specialist. <S> This is a far easier and cost effective solution than buying all the tools and parts then learning to build a wheel. <A> Yes, with standard wheels the front and rear rims are identical. <S> Just make sure the number of spoke holes of the rim matches your rear hub. <S> Sometimes they use fewer spokes on the front. <S> Some manufacturers offer asymmetric rims for the rear wheel (because a rear hub with cassette is inherently asymmetric) but you could still use a normal, symmetric rim. <S> Some proprietary wheel sets have other asymmetries and complex lacing patterns, but I assume you are not asking about one of those.
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But if you use one of the many 'standard' rims that are still in production, you may build a rear or front wheel with any rim.
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Can I do brevets (long distance rides) on my hybrid bike? If yes, how to start? I have a hybrid bike with 27" large frame, 700c wheels and 35mm tires. Can I do brevets (long distance ride) on this bike? If yes, what are the points I should start working on to achieve this? Currently I am a beginner and riding around 40 minutes per day and little more on weekends. <Q> This question gets asked quite often. <S> There are a few things you can do to your bicycle to make it more efficient and easier: <S> Especially that your saddle is high enough. <S> This will improve power output and reduce risk of knee pain/injuries. <S> Reduce air resistance by lowering the handlebar. <S> If you have front suspension, lock it (or get a rigid fork). <S> Wear tight fitting bicycle clothes. <S> Keep it well maintained. <S> Get road bike tires with low rolling resistance. <S> In the end the most important part will still be training. <S> During long rides nutrition (and of course hydration) is also very important. <A> You can certainly do Brevet Populaires (100 km). <S> Plenty of people do them on all sorts of bikes. <S> I've seen a few people on flat bars on Brevets de Randonneurs 200 in the UK, including an MTB with knobbly tyres ( the one with the backpack in this picture ). <S> Hybrids on these rides tend to be set up as flat bar road bikes, i.e. smoothish tyres around 25-35 mm and to have gearing comparable to a tourer. <S> I don't think I've seen flat bars on a 300 (but I'm doing one tomorrow <S> so I'll try to remember to look out for them). <S> You might end up as a full-value rider (i.e. close to the time limit) especially if there's a headwind, but no-one will think any the worse of you for your choice of bike. <S> One day I may do a 100 on my hybrid but not with its current saddle - hybrid saddles can be rather fat and chafe. <A> What "long" means varies from person to person so, <S> to a large extent, you'll just have to try going on longer and longer rides until you find out what your body is comfortable with. <S> I would note, though, that 40 minutes at the 11mph you said you average in your other question is a long way from brevet-style riding. <S> Don't try to run before you can walk. <A> Two summers ago I rode 1,300 miles around Lake Superior on a Trek Verve 2, averaging about 70 miles a day. <S> I am over 60 years old, and I like a more comfortable ride at this stage. <S> The more durable tire of a hybrid came in handy when I needed to navigate rougher terrain. <S> These days I am riding a Specialized Cross Trail on long rides. <S> I love it. <A> Last year I rode the Houston MS-150 on a hybrid. <S> This year some guy rode it on a penny-farthing. <S> Your bike should be no problem, as long as it's a bike that fits you. <A> My experience is that pretty much any bike can do pretty much any type of ride <S> (within reason; a track bike cannot do mud racing, for example). <S> I’ve done a 160 km ride (60 km sportive, 20 km to get there and 80 km to get home) on a fixed gear bike with narrow raiser bars. <S> That worked fine. <S> Was it the ideal bike for such a long ride through mostly countryside? <S> Certainly not. <S> But it was still very enjoyable. <S> An endurance bike would have been faster. <S> A tourer would have been more comfortable. <S> But it was fine. <S> A hybrid would have worked, too. <S> Heck, even a town bike can do that; it just takes a very long time. <S> This weekend just passed as of writing this answer, I did maybe 100-120 km around the southeast of Scania in the south of Sweden, on a gravel bike. <S> It has the same 700x35C tyre size as on your bike. <S> 35 mm tyres are fine even on long stretches of road; the rolling resistance is comparable to the 28 mm tyres on my fixie, but the ride is more comfy. <S> I find that on longer rides, the different hand positions of drop bars really help. <S> If possible, I would recommend looking into a different handlebar. <S> The typical wide, mostly flat bar that most hybrids have gets really uncomfortable after a while. <S> Look for something that gives you a few different hand positions. <S> That’s probably the single most important upgrade you can do to your bike for longer rides.
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The short answer is that you can do long distance rides on basically any bicycle as long as it’s comfortable for you. Training for long distance rides basically boils down to riding a lot. In practice, most people find hybrids rather uncomfortable for long rides. Make sure your seating position is good. Get clipless pedals and shoes.
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How well are new helmets packaged? I am considering buying a new helmet online, which means it'll be delivered to my door by courier. In my experience, couriers can be careless with parcels. Should I be concerned about this, or are helmets packaged so that they're safe even if knocked about a bit? In case it matters, the brand of helmet I shall be buying is Specialized. <Q> Helmets are like hats and shoes — everyone has a different shape head or foot and so the standard sizes really don’t apply. <S> Some heads are pointy, some are flat. <S> Different helmet companies use different head forms — and some even use different shapes between their different helmet line. <S> So a ‘L’ for one helmet might not be the same as an ‘L’ in another. <S> So I’d recommend going to your local bike shop and get a properly fitting helmet. <S> You’ll be surprised just how much better it fits on your head and <S> how much more secure it is. <A> We had a new helmet delivered this week, it came in the normal post and was packaged in a polythene mailing bag. <S> The helmet was in its retail packaging alone inside the bag. <S> In the past I’ve ordered one along with other things and it came in a larger outer box all in together. <S> In both cases, the retail packaging showed no signs of damage or neglect and neither did the helmet inside. <S> If there had been damage to either I would have likely returned the helmet for a refund. <S> That all said, there are no guarantees, so what can you do? <S> Buy from a retailer you trust and contact them beforehand if you want to. <S> Consider ordering extra items you will use like a sweet new pair of spare tyres. <S> Then these will be shipped together in a secondary box and possibly padded. <S> When it arrives, check for any signs of damage and return it if you need to. <S> Oops I meant to finish by saying if you’re still not comfortable, it’s worth a visit to a shop to inspect before you buy <S> and then you can transport it home yourself. <S> Not the only benefit, See also RoboKaren’s answer. <A> Unless the box is punctured or really horribly abused, it should not be damaged in a meaningful way. <S> Helmets are meant to withstand the force of high speed collisions and can handle a little rough and tumble dropping in a well packaged box. <S> One thing to consider about the risks of having the helmet shipped via courier: most bike shops get their product via courier and have little to no issues with the products being damaged.
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Helmets are typically packaged pretty well with soft foam inserts inside the box to cushion the helmet during shipping. Choose a retailer you know to use package padding, or make a special request.
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How can I stop someone borrowing my bike anymore? There's this kid I've been riding with for quite some time that keeps borrowing my bike non-stop leaving me riding his broken bike. Not that I dislike him riding my bike or anything, is just that Everytime I lend him my bike he will be crunching gears uphill, skiddding and knocking on stuff carelessly and my bike will end up having problems, and when I told him my bike has a problem he will say it's not his fault and I end up using my money to fix it. He is riding a folding bike with everything loose and a mountain bike that is at his home that is broken, he is not even bothered to fix both of his bikes. Once, he asked to borrow my bike again and I say no, he looked like he is upset and a bit angry. Is there something I can say to avoid lending my bike to him? P.s. is this question okay to be posted in this website? If not I'll delete it and I'll just keep lending my bike to him. This is closed as a duplicate of https://interpersonal.stackexchange.com/questions/21719/how-can-i-avoid-borrowing-my-bike <Q> He probably doesn't feel very empowered to fix his own bikes, and they may have issues that are beyond his means to fix or get fixed for him. <S> It sounds like the allure of a bike in working order and despair over his own situation is causing him to act jealous and selfishly in turns. <S> As he's your friend, you might consider offering help in fixing his own bikes. <S> Getting some support there may be what he needs to move forward from the habit he's in of leaning on you unfairly. <S> And by learning what it takes to get and keep a bike working well, he may learn to be less unduly hard on them. <S> Remember you can always post here about whatever mechanical issues you encounter. <S> Also, I feel this question is reasonably within the bounds of 'bike culture' and is not out of place here. <A> Good friendships have boundaries. <S> In this case you need to set your bike as off limits. <S> I'm sure he has stuff that he does not want you messing with. <S> In the nicest way possible tell your friend: <S> He's rough on bikes when he rides and you are not comfortable with him riding your bike. <S> When he takes your bike it leaves you stranded with a broken bike. <S> You'd like to help him fix up his bike so that he has something to ride. <S> It's not that he's a bad person <S> , it's just where you are right now. <A> This is probably not best handled as a bicycling problem, but for sake of completeness, within the bounds of the question literally asked there are a few technical possibilities. <S> If you are willing to buy compatible shoes and ride clipped in, you could put clipless pedals on the bike. <S> It won't be impossible to ride with ordinary shoes but far less pleasant. <S> Gears that reverse the direction of the steering are a pretty much complete impediment to anyone else being able to ride your bike - the mind can maybe handle reversing the intention of turns, but not that the steering corrections for balance all end up reversed as well (someone locally has one in a collection of toys he lets people try). <S> The downside is that once you adapt your balance reflexes to reversed steering, you probably won't be able to ride any normal bike, either - which would make the idea impractical for most. <S> Sometimes it is best not to give reasons, because reasons are just invitations to potential new arguments about those points, which detract from the overall message of "no". <S> Similarly even something like the clipless pedals has some risk - your friend might decide that he likes telling himself he is overcoming a challenge by riding them without the right shoes (or maybe he starts insisting that you trade shoes, too!)
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He may not really understand like you do that things need to be taken care of to work well, which is perhaps a reason why he's unduly rough on your bike. Really though, you need to work on being willing to say "no" in situations where saying "yes" has uncomfortable consequences.
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Frame adjustment for engine I want to turn my bike into a motorized one, but i can't get engine clearance because the 2 tubes in the picture are so wide on my bike. I was wondering if I cut those tubes and replace them with thinner tubes will the bike still be safe to ride? <Q> No. <S> Those tubes are what stop you hitting the ground - hard. <S> If your modification fails you could have a very bad day, or a very bad (even brief) rest of your life. <S> A competent frame builder could modify a frame if it's steel, but would probably find it easier to purpose-build a frame. <A> <A> NO <S> That you have to ask such a question suggests a lack of the engineering skills and experience required to bring such a project to completion, safely. <S> The existing brakes really won't suit anything larger than a couple hundred watts, which is 1/5 of a horsepower. <S> If you want an ebike then look for a retrofit kit that puts a hub motor inside your wheel's hub. <S> If you're fixated on a liquid fuel engine, then try the mechanics SE site.
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Regardless of whether a modified frame would be structurally safe, modifying the frame wold almost certainly more expensive than just buying a different frame more suited to your purpose. Also, any engine that won't fit in your bike will likely be too big to be legal on the road of first-world countries.
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Do you need to remove the disc rotor to replace a drive side spoke? Today I had a spoke break in the middle of a ride. I did notice it had a wobble but I don't have the experience to tell what's passable. Even new bikes can have a slight wobble. so I dismissed it. I was quoted £30 to replace the spoke and true it - the mechanic said he had to remove the cassette and rotor to replace a drive side spoke. Is this true or they're having a laugh? Should I replace myself? if I remember correctly this wheel has had a a spoke break on me before. <Q> It's typical <S> that wheels that break spokes are going to keep breaking them due to build or material quality issues or both. <S> So which is the least painful between doing it yourself 16 or 32 times versus paying for it versus buying a new wheel or paying to get it rebuilt all at once is up to you. <S> If the bike/wheel is within a warranty period and it's having this issue, it's an especially good thing to use the warranty for because if they're breaking when still fairly new, it really may not stop until they're all replaced. <S> I've rebuilt or replaced many such wheels. <A> On hubs which use traditional J-bend spokes, spokes alternately come from each side of the flange, and are therefore threaded through the spoke holes from alternating sides. <S> If the new spoke needed to be inserted from the non-drive side, it may have been required to remove the both the cassette and rotor to allow that. <S> It's well within the scope of most riders who do their own bike maintenance to replace a single spoke. <S> There are plenty of resources online that show you how to do it. <A> This is just an 'Is it blocking the way' kind of situation. <S> It's up to you if you want to faff around installing spokes with the rotor installed, since it's just a thread-in-the-needle kind of installation <S> (the spoke to flange part, that is). <S> If you're looking for the best way to do it, then I'd say you remove the rotors first as you don't want to accidentally rub your oily fingers on those surfaces as you thread in your spokes.
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Yes, usually you have to remove both to get the spokes through, although not every time depending on the specific hub and rotor. Replacing spokes is low to moderate difficulty, depending on how messed up the wheel is once you're getting it true, but does have a lot of steps, so shop rates for it unfortunately tend to be something like what you're encountering.
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Does it matter what way the tires go if no directional arrow? As the title suggests, I have just put on two new tires but now I'm not sure if I put them on in the right direction. No directional arrows so I presume anyway is fine, however me being me it made sense to have the tread pattern going in the forward direction. So do these look right or should I flip them around? <Q> Tires with directional arrows usually have a tread that's asymmetric in terms of rotation of the tire about the hub (i.e. the tread appears to "point" forward or backward along the direction of travel of the bike). <S> Asymmetric tread is designed to improve traction in certain scenarios. <S> For example, they can be designed to encourage water, snow, mud, and other liquid or semi-liquid items to move out from under the tire, improving traction. <S> Mounted incorrectly, they will do the opposite and encourage the same stuff inward toward the center line of the tire. <S> The direction arrows you mention are to reduce the guess-work and just tell you exactly how to mount the tire to get the tread pointed the right direction. <S> If there is no explicit arrow, look at the tread and see if it has a pattern that "points" in one direction (forward or backward). <S> In every case I've seen, the pattern should point behind towards the back of the bike when it contacts the road, or forward when you look at it from the top. <S> Shouldn't matter. <S> Also, make sure to look very close for the arrows. <S> Sometimes they're painted onto the tire and easy to see, but other times they're just traced with a raised ridge of tire rubber and that can be hard to spot. <S> Check the entire perimeter of the tire on both sides, in good lighting. <S> Summary <S> Did <S> the tire manufacturer include an explicit rotation direction arrow printed or embossed on the tire? <S> If so, follow that. <S> If there is no explicit rotation direction arrow included by the manufacturer: Is the tread asymmetric in the direction of rotation, i.e. does it appear to "point" forward or backward? <S> If so, mount the tire <S> so the tread is pointingforward when viewed from the top of the bike. <S> Is the tread symmetric (doesn't appear to point forward or backward)? <S> If so, mount it either way, rotation direction doesn't matter. <A> Although hard to tell, I’m pretty sure for those tires it does not matter, if it had a specific way it would say so. <S> If it looks the wrong way then change it, but I would just leave it the way you put it on. <A> If the company did not bother to add rotational direction (especially one like Continental), it mostly doesn't matter. <S> On that matter, I've had experiences where if the tread/knobs are angled and seem to point to a direction, putting it in either direction gives different performances for different intentions/applications. <S> If we see the tread as a V-shape, installing the tire with it pointing forwards would result in less rolling resistance and very grippy braking (typical), while installing the tire with the tread pointing back will have massive grip when pedaling (mostly in climbs) but less grippy braking. <S> That's just my experience <S> so take it with a grain of salt, but it might give a bit of insight.
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If there is no direction arrow, and the tire is either slick or has a symmetric tread (doesn't "point" forward or backward), I would say mount it either way.
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Differences between starting a road bike vs a mountain bike? I'm having problems getting rolling on my road bike. For some reason I have hard time hopping back into the road bike saddle. It's the pedals spinning causing my feed to lose grip, or the bike tilting on my way up. That's what I've struggled with, and I can't quite figure out why it' so hard for me. I ride a mountain bike and my feet have no issue hitting the ground and waiting until it's time to go again. That's not the case with the road bike, where I have to get out of the saddle when stopped. I never had issues with a mountain bike but last year I struggled a lot on the road bike.. not with braking but with the actual complete stop and then starting again. I’m about to get back in the road bike again for the season and am hoping to do better this time. I guess I don’t understand why stopping / starting is so much harder than a mountain bike. Does anyone have any tips/tricks in starting a road bike? <Q> I ride a mountain bike and my feet have no issue hitting the ground and waiting until it's time to go again. <S> That's not the case with the road bike, where I have to get out of the saddle when stopped. <S> You say you have to get out of the saddle when you stop the road bike. <S> Is there a large difference is saddle height between your road and mountain bike? <S> Are you staying sat on the saddle with a foot on the ground when stopping the MTB, but have to drop out of the saddle to get a foot down when stopping the road bike? <S> You should be able to reach the ground with your toes when sitting in the road bike saddle, without tilting the bike. <S> Make sure you stop in an appropriate gear so pushing down on the pedal gets you underway and able to lift the other foot of the ground. <S> Look at the saddle height on your road bike. <S> It may be too high. <S> Also your MTB saddle may be too low. <A> The first thing that may help quite a lot is to push off quite quickly then pause your stroke and stand up on one pedal to get on the saddle. <S> You can even stand on both pedals with the cranks horizontal, which is handy if your clothes snag on the saddle nose. <S> I like to put in a couple of pedal strokes before this, which works well in my touring <S> (/commuting /MTB) shoes, with the pedal under my arch for those 2 strokes. <S> Trying this in road shoes with hard plastic soles is less successful and results in bruises on the inside of my left ankle. <S> So it may actually be your shoes that are the issue. <S> On the road bike I run clipless pedals - it's not clear whether you do, but clipless just adds an extra step compared to platforms. <S> When stopping, it should be possible to point your toes and tilt the bike to the side while on the saddle. <S> It may not be comfortable for long. <A> I ride a mountain bike and my feet have no issue hitting the ground and waiting until it's time to go again. <S> That's not the case with the road bike, where I have to get out of the saddle when stopped. <S> If you can put a foot on the ground while still seated on your mountain bike, your seat is too low. <S> It sounds like you've gotten entrenched in a bad habit, and finding it difficult to adapt to a different setup. <S> As with so many things, practice should solve it. <S> Many riders have a "good foot" that they prefer to start off it. <S> When you approach a stop, downshift a little and rotate your pedals so that the crank on your good foot's side is at about 2:00, so you can get the full benefit of a pedal stroke. <S> When you start, put all your weight on the pedal, which will naturally force your body up so you can get your butt back in the saddle. <S> Trying to do this while thinking about it will be a lot harder than doing it without thinking--you want to get to the point where this is automatic. <A> You need to note what they do that you don't, and vise versa. <S> Either casually observe other people on the road near you, or look out for beginners riding groups. <S> You can find these by asking at the local bike shop or cycling clubs. <S> Or check out Strava's heatmaps to see where people ride in your area of the world, and ride those roads on weekend mornings to see other riders. <A> My suggestion: practice riding out of the saddle directly from a stop, and don't put your keister in the saddle until you've got some momentum going. <S> That is, rather than kick-stomp-sit-pedal, try kick-stomp-pedal-sit.
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You should be able to start sat in the saddle, one foot on the ground and the other on a pedal. One suggestion is to observe other people riding, and try and spot the differences between your method and what others are doing.
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Keeping a 2006 Giant SCR 3 on the road - 9 speed to 11 speed? I have a Giant SCR 3 which was a freebie from a mate, who had it new. It's approx a 2006 I think, and I've had it about 5 years. I've spend a relatively small amount along the way at the LBS, keeping it going. Due the serious mileage it's seen between the two of us, the following are now clear; The original Tiagra 9x3 groupset is nearing End Of Life (confirmed by friendly LBS, who don't try to sell me anything I don't need) The original Alex rims are WAY beyond the wear indicators, although, nothing bad has happened yet! Braking is now a serious effort on the hands (needs new cables I guess) As much out of nostalgia for my first decent road bike, I'm tempted to give it a new lease of life. I have other bikes, but this is/was my go-to commuter, and old enough to lock up in town on a night out too. I believe the 9 speed is now obsolete in Tiagra? So do I go Sora 9 speed (Sora in 2019 perhaps similar standard to 2006 Tiagra?) OR, as I need to change wheels too, is this an opportunity to go to new 11 speed Tiagra? Am I missing a trick here? Can I just by new cassette, chain-rings, chain, and keep it going... Thanks all James PS: Little bike DIY experience to date, although I am mechanically minded. <Q> I think your minimum refurb to bring the bike up to a good standard would be: new wheels; bottom bracket, chain, cassette and chain-rings; housings and cables (shift and brake); tires, brake pads, bar-tape; and a total, thorough cleaning and re-adjustment. <S> This is assuming the derailleurs and shifters are actually working OK, and your LBS just means 'obsolete' when they say they are at 'end of life'. <S> That's a fairly big chunk of the bike, so you may want to go the whole way and upgrade the groupset. <S> Personally I'd want at least 10 speed as an <S> upgrade - Current Tiagra 4700 is 10 speed. <S> Another option is looking for lightly used 105 5800 or Ultegra 6800 <S> (or perhaps even R7000 or R8000) <S> 11 speed components. <S> I'd look for a good set of lightly used wheels. <S> As tech has moved to disc brakes and thru-axles you can probably find some really good light and strong rim/QR wheels for reasonable money. <A> I may well be far too late <S> but I upgraded my 2007 SCR 3.0 in Dec 2016. <S> I used a Tiagra 4700 bottom bracket, with a 2 x 10 Tiagra chainset - replaced the cranks, rear derailleur and cassette (11-34; we've got a lot of 20% hills around where I live). <S> I replaced the shifter set and front derailleur with Tiagra 4700 as well. <S> New Tiagra R451 brake calipers, etc. <S> I replaced the wheels with a Mavic Aksium Elite clincher set but have since replaced those with a Shimano RS11 wheelset as I had worn the rims right down. <S> I almost need to replace those now! <S> The whole lot cost me in the region of £600 <S> but the frame is solid and suits me for sportives, long day rides or touring <S> and I don't mind doing miles on bumpy canal paths or putting it on a plane in a C2C bag. <S> I haven't regretted doing it <S> and I learnt a lot about bike maintenance and mechanics along the way. <A> I had an older LS Vortex with DA 9 sp and re-did the whole kit in R8000 (11 speed). <S> New cable housings and rims as well. <S> It was a sizeable investment but it was worth it. <S> If you can find NOS in Ultegra 6800 <S> you can't go wrong in my opinion.
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Used wheelset makes sense if you can inspect first.
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Buying a bike that has been idle in a garage for years? A close friend who can no longer ride (illness) asked me if I wanted to buy his 2009 Trek Fuel EX 9. This bike has been hanging in his garage for 9 years and was only ridden for a couple of hours after it was purchased. What are the potential problems in buying a bike that has been idle in his garage for years? <Q> Its entirely possible the bike is good and safe to ride with a bit of air in the tires and shocks/forks - this would heavily depend on the climate in the garage it was stored in and condition <S> it was in before being hung up. <S> Presuming the bike looks in good condition with little or no surface rust, the following are the things that might need attention apart from what a regular service would entail <S> (regular service is things like chain clean and lube,tuning brake check etc. <S> Tires/tubes - Personally I would be putting on new tires and tubes. <S> They may be OK, but the rubber will have hardened and not be as grippy as tires should be. <S> If they look OK, check them after each ride for a few rides to be sure they are OK. <S> Brakes - Check they are not seized and work reasonably well. <S> Seals could be gone, so look for leaks around the calipers, Keep in mind if it has not been used for a while, leaks may not show up immediately. <S> Presume the pads and discs have been contaminated. <S> Budget for new pads and if needed give the discs a really good clean and put new pads inDepending how its stored, a brake bleed may be needed. <S> If Dot fluid I would suggest a bleed regardless as DOT is hygroscopic (Absorbs moisture) and after 10 years it will probably be contaminated. <S> Shocks <S> /Forks - Best to give these a full service with new seals and O-Rings. <S> These are expensive bits to replace so its cheap insurance. <S> Check for pitting and corrosion on the stanchions and shock damper body. <S> They will be ridable - for a while - with pitting, but the cost of replacements on such and old bike makes it uneconomic. <S> If there is surface rust on things like the chain, things like a new chain and new gear cables may be in order. <S> These are low cost items so should not be a concern. <S> Apart from these components, a bit of surface rust largely cosmetic. <A> The suggestions in the other answers to your question are all excellent points. <S> ,Many relate to the overall safety of the bike which focus heavily on the tires and hydraulic brake system and these should be addressed first of all. <S> Minimally, the tires inspected and inflated to the riding pressure of between 45 to 65 PSI for the stock 26 x 2.25 inch rubber. <S> The brake system clears my suggested pre-ride inspection when rotors appear planar and are free of damage or rust. <S> The pads are intact, positioned correctly and when the brake lever is squeezed, the pads come into contact with the rotor at the same time. <S> I'd take the time to clean both pads and rotors with rubbing alcohol and use fine grit sandpaper on the pads to prep them. <S> Thouroughly bleed the brakes as soon as possible. <S> The '09 Trek Fuel EX 9 has left piles of positive reviews in it's wake, features Shimano XT front drivetrain, SRAM XO rear end, and Fox suspension. <S> It cost over $3600 new a decade ago and still holds a good value today. <S> It is a sweet, sweet ride and <S> if the storage atmosphere was even just average.... <S> well, I'm excited for you! <S> While 26 inch wheeled bikes are fast fading away, this baby will shine just fine in this sunset of 26ers. <S> My plan would be to thoroughly clean and lube the entire machine. <S> A bike shop's complete tune up.... <S> repacking the wheel and pedal bearings, rims trued, chain cleaned and lubed, made to appear fresh out of the box. <S> Shifter cables and housings would stay if free of damage and rust, but I would dismantle, clean and lube them (Tri Flow IMHO). <S> Lightly wax the frame after a good wash. <S> Regarding the suspension: inspect pivot points and lube--it would take a fair amount of rust with pitting to get me to replace any bolt or bushing right away <S> but they'd shine clean and lubed. <S> Shocks would have service kits budgeted for and put on order. <S> In the meantime, air them up, new oil saturating the wipes, set the sag, pre-load, and fiddle the rebound speed. <S> After 20 or so fairly tame miles of a shakedown ride or two, I'd put that baby to the test collecting Lucky Charms (green circles, blue squares, black diamonds). <S> Enjoy! <A> Mattnz above mentioned some very good items. <S> Next, I check the chain for problems related to dryness and gunk. <S> Inspect the braking system to see if it even brakes. <S> Then, see if your friend is willing to let you take this bike to a local bike shop for a check on what needs to be tuned up. <S> Doing this will keep you riding on a safe bicycle. <A> The biggest potential problem may be the price. <S> If after you pay for all necessary service listed in other answers can end up with total cost around 50-60% of new bike of similar class it would be great thing to consider. <S> But they do not factor in service <S> you still have to do, and the fact that while some components were top of the line at the time bicycle has been manufactured, now days they are not, and similarly equipped bicycle can be bought for fraction of the price.
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Having gone through this situation, I usually check the tires for cracking problems, and pump up the tires to see if the tube is still good. It may just be dust and good clean will fix it, but in a garage that dust may contain oils. If you don't want to go that far, a basic service is highly recommended. However many people would stick to the price they have paid 10 years go and reduce it by 10% because "it is as new".
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Bottle holder for mountain bike I want to get a bottle holder for my bike. It has no pre-drilled holes for the holder. I found some that clamp on but not sure if they would work with the wide tube that I would need to mount it to. <Q> Get a clamp-on solution like the SKS Anywhere, Topeak VersaMount or Elite VIP. <S> As Nate W pointed out in the comments, make sure it doesn’t interfere with your cables. <S> A quick and dirty solution with cable ties and duct tape can work temporarily as well. <S> for example the TacX Saddle Clamp: <S> I think a disadvantage of this solution is that you can’t slide behind the saddle on descents. <S> They are primarily intended for time trial bikes. <A> There are a number of options here: <S> Use a hydration pack on your back <S> Use a feedbag attached to the handlebars to hold a waterbottle <S> Get creative! <S> There's lots more ways to carry water out on the trail. <S> Clamps, drilling, etc into the frame are probably not the best idea for maintaining the integrity of the frame and security of the bottle. <A> Using a strap on cage would likely be the easiest method. <S> You should be able to ask a question of the manufacturer and get strap lengths to compare to your tube circumference and determine fit. <S> It's quite common for bikes to have very large downtubes <S> and I imagine it's common for strap on kits to come with longer than necessary straps, since they can usually be trimmed. <S> You could also get a quote at a shop to get holes drilled in the frame and threaded rivets installed and mount a cage. <S> More info here . <S> I've done this on both bikes that came with no mounts and as a fix on bikes where the threaded rivets from the factory became stripped (after drilling out the stripped factory rivets). <S> This might be more expensive up front <S> (labor from a shop) <S> but allow you to use a much less expensive cage.
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There are also bottle cage mounts which clamp to the saddle’s rails, Use a hydration pack in a framebag
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Locknut on threaded headset doesn't tighten It's a second hand bicycle that I've owned for a short time, but the problems seem to have started after a crash. The headset started to rattle, and I didn't have a tool to tighten it, so I would just do it with my fingers every 30 minutes of riding. Now that I have a tool, when tightening the locknut, it "overturns", i.e. you can't tighten it. I'm guessing that it's either the threads on the locknut that are worn-out or the threaded tube on which the locknut screws on. I'm not sure how to identify which though. If it's the threaded tube, is that easy to replace, or do you have to change the whole fork? <Q> Maybe it would be possible to repair threads on the fork, but since you have been in the accident it would be vise to get your fork and headset examined, maybe there are some other issues with it now. <A> You'll need to take the locknut and top race off to examine the threads on the race, locknut and steerer. <S> What you are looking for is the 'peaks' of the threads being flattened off. <S> Using a bright light helps. <S> If the locknut just spins on the steerer without tightening the damage should be obvious. <S> If the steerer threads are damaged you'll need a new fork. <A> You have received two good, detailed suggestions already, but I would definitely recommend that you have a good read of this checklist <S> if you haven't already.
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Well if both nut and the lock nut are skipping then chances are that thread on fork is stripped. When you take the setup apart you may find that it's obvious that a particular part is damaged (like it was in my case a few years ago - picture below) but bear in mind that there may be some less visible damage to other parts too.
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How to patch glass cuts in a bicycle tire? How do you deal with the small cuts in a bicycle tires main tread? Do folks fill these small cuts? I have continental gatorskins which I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards. thanks! <Q> I periodically check and pull out the street glass shards <S> I have been doing the same for as long as I have a bike. <S> Glass shards, small sharp stones, nails, drawing pins... name something I haven't pulled out of my tires! <S> But I never worried of patching the tire, and never had problems because of that. <S> My tires (even those which weren't puncture resistant) reached end of life because of wear, not because of cuts. <S> I just patched the tube inside, and went on. <A> The only times you need to consider the tyre is if the hole is large enough for the inner tube to poke through, or if the hole is in the thin sidewall <S> I once had a hole that was ~1 mm across, and seemed okay. <S> It took about 3 flats every 200 km of riding to realise that the tube was herniating through the hole and wearing through. <S> A black tube and a black tyre made it hard to see the issue. <S> If you can't see the tube or the threads of the tyre in or through the hole, its fine. <S> If you can, then its possible to stick an inner tube patch on the inside of the tyre to get more wear out of it, or if the tyre's worn out anyway <S> then its time to replace. <S> Not easy I know. <A> If it's a large enough cut that the tube pokes through the tyre once inflated, then the best solution is to use a regular tube patch on the inner surface of the tyre with the vulcanising glue just like when patching a tube. <S> While less recommended, I've also had success just using a drop of superglue for a small cut in a tyre. <A> You can use a small amount of super glue to close the area that was cut by the shard of glass. <S> Depending on where the cut is located you will have to re-apply the super glue every few hundred kms, but this can greatly extend the life of the tire. <A> Some puncture kits come with a piece of rubberised canvas which is intended for glueing over a (small) tear or hole in the tyre carcass - but I wouldn't rely on it for anything bigger than a slot a few mm long - perhaps you could get away with longer on a relatively low pressure tyre but not on a racing bike. <S> For pinpricks or cuts to the rubber that don't penetrate into the fibre structure I've never bothered doing anything other than removing the foreign material from the tyre so it doesn't get worse. <S> I've never had a tyre fail because I'd not glued up or repaired damage to the tread... <S> general wear gets them in the end. <A> I don't bother patching cuts caused by tiny shards of glass and have never had a problem. <S> When touring I carry a Park Tool emergency tyre boot in case <S> I develop a bigger cut in the tyre - but I would only use it as a temporary solution until I can get home and replace the tyre. <A> It might be overkill, but I see no reason why those would not work when using tubes.
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There are also tire plugs which are designed to plug holes in tubeless tires that are so big the sealant does not work. Your other option is to work on your technique, and try to stop riding through broken glass so much.
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Replacement stem cap and bolt Our oldest son has been alternating between mine and my wife’s bike (Carreras from Halfords) whenever he has to go anywhere, but over the last week or so we noticed he had stopped using my bike, saying the other one was more comfortable. I was moving the bikes into the shed last night and noticed that the stem cap and bolt (think that's they're called) are missing!! Don't know what he did and I've not had a chance to talk to him about it yet. Here is a picture of the bit I'm talking about: Is this an easy part to source and is it difficult to fit correctly? Am I better just taking the bike into Halfords and asking them to fix it (assuming they can)? Update, I've got what I thought I needed and went to fit it today. But it seems there's something else missing! I've taken pictures, can anyone see what the issue might be: Thanks Swifty, didn't notice I'd posted the wrong picture. Here is a better one, it looks like there should be something inside the star. The bold is just spinning. Thanks Alex <Q> You can get them with bottle openers and clocks. <S> Once the stem bolts are done up, the cap and bolt does nothing (although for safety, I would not ride a bike with no cap). <S> Therefore if you do not undo the stem bolts, all you need to do is put on the new cap and do the bolt up. <S> The bolt only needs to be tight enough it does not come undone - 5 <S> nm should be enough (that is not much). <S> You do not want to be a gorilla on the end of the spanner. <S> If you have undone the stem bolts, you need to loosen the stem, do up the cap bolt till the play is removed from the head set, line up the handle bars and tighten the stem bolts (typically 5-7nm, much less than most people think). <A> Stem caps are easy to get and easy to install. <S> The purpose of them is to take the play out of the headset. <S> To do this you have to first loosen the two bolt of your stem and then tighten the cap bolt until there is no more play. <S> Now you can tighten the bolts back on your stem. <A> If the bolt you now have is just spinning freely, it sounds like there is no thread for it to engage. <S> You could compare this one against the thread in your wife’s bike to double check. <S> The star shape item is a ‘star-fangled nut’ and is driven down into the steerer, the tangs resist the pulling up of the bolt. <S> If it’s damaged you need to replace it. <S> Sometimes people will drill the whole thing so it disintegrates, then fit a new one, or drive it all the way down and out the bottom. <S> Installing the new one requires a star nut setting tool which you aren’t going to use very often (hopefully!) <S> so decide early if you’re going to do it yourself or accept paying labour on a shop doing it. <S> You can find tutorials for replacing a star-fangled nut online, if you have any problems it would now be best as another question, though you are very welcome to do so. <S> You can always link back to this one for context.
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The cap and bolt is only needed to set the preload on the bearings when installing the stem. The cap and bolts are readily available, if you want no need to stick to a boring round black thing - they come in all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes, colours and functions.
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Is it possible to fit full coverage fenders on a road bicycle with V-brakes? I would like to get a used road bike on a budget. However, I need to ideally fit full coverage fenders due to frequent rain. Do I simply need to save up for a bicycle with disc brakes, or should I look for a particular type of fork, frame, gap between the wheel and fork, that would allow the fitment of full coverage fenders? I'm trying to avoid making this an opinion based question -- surely this must be a well-known problem with an equally well-known solution? It seems like most road bicycles have V-brakes, hence many would experience this exact problem? <Q> It would help if you clarified what you mean by "road bike", since I've never seen a road bike with V-brakes. " <S> Road bikes" are what many people would call "racing bikes" and they come with either disc brakes or caliper rim brakes; bikes with V-brakes tend to be either mountain bikes or hybrid/city bikes. <S> Nonetheless, it's perfectly possible to fit full fenders to a caliper-braked (or disc-braked) road bike, and also to a bike with V-brakes. <S> Many road bikes don't come with the mounting bolt-holes for fenders but you can still fit fenders using other types of mount (e.g., clips or zip-tie-like straps around the forks). <A> The main thing you need to look for is sufficient space around the tyre, at the chainstay and at the seatstay, as well as at the brakes. <S> It is also helpful if there are threadded holes down in the front and rear dropouts for mounting the mudguard/fender's stays. <S> Full-length fenders need a bit more support than stubby ones. <S> Most frames have this, but do check. <S> You can also bodge much of the mudguard functionality using a rear parcel rack. <S> V brake arms are normally long enough to clear the guards. <S> However mini-V brakes may not be long enough. <A> It's definitely possible to put fenders on a bike with V-brakes; <S> my old Trek 520 had V-brakes and the fenders fit just fine. <S> (It was a bit tricky attaching the fenders, since I had to take the rack off to get access to the fender braze-ons, but once the fender was on it was fine.) <S> Depending on the geometry of your bike there are other clearances that may be more of a problem than the brake clearance, TBH. <S> (Some road bikes are really tight for space between the seat tube and the rear tire, for instance.) <S> For reference, this is the 2005 <S> Trek 520 <S> you can see there's plenty of space above the tire below the brake cable (more space in fact than between the tire and the rack): <S> The picture isn't very clear, but it came with Avid SD5 brakes :
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Most mudguard/fenders expect to mount to the brake bridge too, so your bike should have a through hole in the crown of the front fork, and through the brake bridge over the rear wheel even if its got V brakes.
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Can I install a back bike rack without attachment to the rear part of the frame? Can I install a back bike rack without attachment to the rear part of the frame? Also, if someone can clarify, whenever I google bike rack I get hits on racks designed to carry bikes on a car and such. I am referring to the racks on the bikes themselves which will allow me to haul things on my bike. I bought a bike recently assuming it would have attachments near the rear part of the frame but they are not present. I have seen some bike racks which secure only to the rear wheel axle, but that does not seem too stable. As you can see in the pic there are no holes for screwing into like I see in many other bikes and nearly all of the racks I looked at. <Q> Several manufacturers make replacement seatpost collars with integrated rack mount holes. <S> Just make sure you get the right diameter for your seat tube. <S> Here is an example: <A> Is the seatpost carbon? <S> If it is replace it with an aluminium one because you'll get a number of racks that clamp to the seatpost. <S> A rack that clamps to the seatpost would normally take up to 10kg. <S> You may find one that also has stays that attach to the axle. <S> Some are attached with bands to the seat-stays. <A> A search of "bicycle cargo racks" led me to what you are looking for. <S> You can modify your search to specify "seat post mounted racks". <S> There are also models that clamp to the seatstays ( the frame member that goes from the axle area to the seatpost). <S> Just check to make sure the clamps are compatible with your frame type. <S> Clamp on racks are generally a no-go for carbon frames. <A> There are various models that clamp onto the seat post (assuming it's round metal). <S> Topeak calls theirs <S> "beam rack" for example. <S> These tend to have a lower weight limit than conventional designs, but are still more than adequate for many uses. <A> You can try searching for "pannier rack" which might give you some more results. <S> As to your problem, perhaps take a step back and see if a rack is what you really need. <S> What are you planning to carry on your rack? <S> You can get some pretty massive (expandable) <S> saddle bags these days, or perhaps a 'floating' type of rack that attaches to your seatpost and clips or straps things onto it (as others have said, these have weight limits based on the strength of your seatpost). <S> You could also consider a front rack if your forks have mounting holes (unlikely if the back doesn't <S> but you never know), though this affects handling more. <A> You could consider a 'bike packing seat pack' (the best search term I could find). <S> These attach to the seat and seat post only: <S> There are dozens of brands and sizes and variations, and other 'bike packing' style bag mounting positions also. <S> The idea, as far as I can tell, is a more streamlined/aero and minimalistic approach to touring, combined with being able to be mounted on frames without the pannier mounts like yours. <A> Another option which doesn't seem to have been mentioned is Thule <S> ’s Tour rack as shown here and described in this article <S> - you may have seen it already but if not just scroll down to "What if my bike doesn’t have eyelets?". <S> It's not the cheapest but looks solid and sometimes it's just good to see what your options are. <A> I have an extra collar installed around my seat post. <S> There are also often collars that would replace the existing one so that you don't have two (and so you're clamping on the frame instead of the seat).
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Yes, you can do this by attaching it to your seat post. This should only be done with a metal frame not a carbon one.
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How do I remove this style of bottom bracket? I am attempting to remove and replace the bottom bracket from a cheapish 1970s American department store road bike. I've gotten the lockring off, and now the non-drive side looks like this: [Whoops, I definitely took photos of the drive side by mistake. You can look at them if you want: head-on view of drive side , angled view of drive side .] The situation on the non-drive side is similar, but the only photo I have right now is slightly less clear: That photo's from a few days ago and I have since gotten the lockring off the usual way. What's the tool or technique that will let me get the bottom bracket cup itself out? My shop doesn't have a bottom bracket tool with notches like this, nor have I seen one online. I tried a pin spanner to no avail. It's difficult to see in the photos, but the sides of the notches in the BB are somewhat sloped, so the pins don't get any "grab" and just slide right out when I start to turn them. That's what I've tried so far. What am I missing, or what else can I try? <Q> When I fixed up my old bike it had a typical BB with fixed and adjustable cups. <S> I planned on replacing with a cartridge BB <S> so I didn't want to get the special tools just for a removal operation. <S> Though I did get the special toothed socket needed to install the new BB (a cheap version online since I'll only use it a few times). <S> Using a slot screwdriver, or better, pin punch or cold chisel, and mallet/hammer, you should be able to get the cup turning. <S> Make sure you're driving it in the correct direction. <S> To remove drive side, turn clockwise. <S> A small amount of penetrating fluid can help too. <S> Edit <S> :Forgive my crude sketching abilities, hopefully this helps. <S> As in the side view, hit the notch perpendicular, and as in the top view, keep the pin/punch as parallel as you can to the face of the cup. <S> (in this sketch this is for removal of the non-drive side). <S> Depending no how stuck it is, it might help if someone holds the bike upright with the brakes on. <A> Here are some examples of tools made for that kind of cup, which doesn't really have a universally understood name or type that I've ever heard of. <S> The Hozan one pictured has a guide/holder bit that wouldn't be used with a cottered spindle like the one you have. <A> I would go out and buy a tool. <S> French bikes have slightly different threading than do other bikes and vice versa. <S> There were no threading standards back then, so if you damage the threads, it might even be that there aren't even tapping tools out there to reassemble the thread.
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Using a mallet and a hammer to remove bottom brackets could potentially damage the threads. To remove non-drive side, drive it counter clockwise.
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How long is chamois cream meant to be effective? In the context of long rides*, how often is chamois cream meant to stay useful (whether measured in hours,km or whatever)? I typically don't carry it on the road, but wonder if a top-up might make the end of a ride more comfortable. *To give a example of what I mean by "long": my longest single day ride so far was just under 20 hours/just over 400 km) <Q> It massively depends on the brand/consistency of the cream, how much you use, and the weather conditions. <S> For me, a small amount of Assos cream will last 4-6hrs in normal conditions, but if its particularly hot (and hence sweating a lot) or if its rainy it lasts much less. <S> There are some products that are much more durable (morgans blue solid for example), but are also not easy to wash out of shorts again afterwards. <S> I never carry any with me on a normal ride, but it is always in my day bag if i'm doing a supported tour. <S> If I was doing something properly long like PBP or LEL <S> i'd definitely take some. <A> For very long days in the saddle, I use a wax-based chamois cream (I use QM4 <S> and I believe Squirt does one too or you can just use regular Vaseline) <S> that forms a layer on top of the skin, rather than being absorbed the way that Assos or Muc-Off are. <S> Sweat seems to have little effect on it. <S> When showering after a 10 hour ride, I'm still be able to feel it on my skin and need to use a soap to get it off as it isn't water-soluble. <S> Before I started using a wax-based cream for long rides, I would pack a tiny zip-lok bag with a single serve of chamois cream to re-apply after ~200 km. <A> To look at how it is sold, you have two inconvenient options: a giant tube (or for some brands, tub), or expensive little foil packets. <S> I just went and bought a 1 oz (28 ml) sample size tube of hand lotion, squeezed it out and washed out the tube. <S> It's a little tricky to do, but at home I squeeze the large tube into the small one, and use whatever leaks in that process for my initial application when setting out. <S> That little tube is perfect for a saddle bag.
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As others have mentioned, chamois cream has a service duration depending on many things including perspiration and the degree to which you are depending on it.
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How to deal with fog, condensing on the outside of glasses? I had a particularly foggy commute both ways today. I was having to wipe the glasses lenses every 10-20 seconds as traffic permitted to maintain some semblance of visibility. I already wear a cap with a brim/peak/visor under my helmet, but the fog is light enough to flow under with air-flow - its not like rain that would fall more downward. Short of "wipe lots" what can be done to keep fog from depositing on glasses? <Q> Dishwashing liquid, cheapest and best way to lose that extra liquid. <S> If you have a yellowish lens they make a difference with seeing contrasting low light. <A> For outdoor sports, when I wear googles or lenses, I spit on the interior of my lenses and spread a thin layer to prevent condensation. <S> A tidier option would be to buy an anti-fog spray at the local sport or ski shop and apply. <A> Put on neat, then rinse off with warm water, drying with kleenex tissue, but one without aloe vera as this will smear the lens. <S> Edit. <S> I use the clear fitovers in foggy conditions and they seem to work. <S> But you could also use the dishwashing liquid method as well. <A> for me, when my glasses become more of a hazard than a benefit, I take them off.
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I have used mild dishwashing liquid with some success. In the conditions described in the question I don't think there is anything you can do to keep your lenses perfectly clear. Can also use clear fitover safety glasses from a hardware store.
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