source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
What to do with a bent but not broken aluminum seat stay unfortunately I got hit by a car. I was on the main road, in the cycle way and the car had a stop sign coming out of a school. He did see me but got distracted by the kids. Anyway, I was wondering if you could help me out determine is my bike is safe to ride or I should do anything about it.The rear fork is a bit bent but not broken and it's aluminum. It's a Cube SL bike.Thanks in advance! <Q> Aluminum alloy is weakened by being bent. <S> The seat-stay is bowed in so that loads will tend to bend the stay more. <S> The stay probably will not fail suddenly, but it will develop a crack where it's bent if you keep riding it. <S> It's probably OK to ride on temporarily, even if the stay does fail the other stay will support the wheel. <S> You say the bike is a Cube so presumably you are in Europe. <A> Safe - probably yes. <S> Good idea - no. <S> As Argenti Apparatus stated, the bike should not fail without some warning, but it probably will fail sooner or later. <S> As people noted in the comments - the geometry seems to have been changed - the wheel seems to be pointing slightly to right, the drop-out seems out of plane etc. <S> The hub axle might be bent, also the bent drop-out may be causing extra stress on the bearing - in that case the rear hub will fail pretty soon. <S> If you ask frame maker they will tell you the frame is busted and you have to exchange it. <S> You could try to find someone who can bend the seat stay back into correct position and weld some piece of aluminum to strengthen the damaged part, but your mileage with this kind of hack repairs may vary. <S> My biggest fear would be, that after some time riding new weakened areas might show up, requiring additional welding. <S> If you want to go that way, you should find a good bike service and ask them for recommendations - often these places know of aluminum welders (at least here, in Poland). <S> Also - welding aluminum (requires TIG ) could be expensive and it might be cheaper to find new frame and swap everything from the old bike to new. <S> Winter is coming™, and so you can find good deals on new frames. <S> Couple of suggestions. <S> https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/aluminium-8675/l-24 <S> https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-rd-01-road-frame-and-carbon-fork-2019/rp-prod130456 <S> (be careful - <S> I think there is no disc brake mount on this frame). <S> Note that whatever you decide to do, you should not use the bike much in the meantime <S> - the components increased wear will add up to whatever you have to spend on repairs. <A> Further data - a change in geometry like that can screw up the handling something awful. <S> I rode this damaged steel-frame bike for a while: <S> That photo was before I straightened it somewhat with clamps and cold pressure. <S> Being steel that was much more acceptable than your bike where straightening will weaken the metal further. <S> The bike was "okay" <S> but always a bit odd on fast descents. <S> In later rides I wore out the wheels, so fitted a used pair with different rim shape. <S> Immediately the hill handling got horrible, to the point I wondered if my wheels were faulty. <S> Inspection showed they were fine. <S> On a trip with another rider, he commented that my rear wheel looked "buckled" while descending. <S> It turned out the seat stay was flexing more on one side than the other, making the dropouts move relative to each other. <S> This also backed off the cone nuts over time, which didn't help. <S> Upshot? <S> Frame's toast and should be replaced for peace of mind.
|
The bicycle will not ride straight now, and some parts will likely not work right and die much faster (shifting might be off similar to bent hanger, disc brake may act up if it is misaligned). The driver's insurance will cover the damage done to the bike, or you can sue the driver in some sort of small-claims court.
|
Warranty on lock damaged during attempted theft Someone attempted to steal my girlfriend's bike tonight and they damaged the lock. Do you guys know if we can use the warranty to get it exchanged? The lock has a 2 year warranty and I'm planning to take it to Decathlon to check what they can do but in the meanwhile is there anything we could do? <Q> The purpose of a bike lock is to help avoid your bike being stolen, so if it has prevented a theft of the bicycle then it has done its job well. <S> Perhaps you can ask Decathlon and report back to us by answering your own question for future readers, that would be most useful. <S> You would have to explore if the damage is covered by any of your insurances, check local laws on any time limits to report the attempted theft by (to police etc). <S> Sometimes lock companies will offer private schemes to replace stolen goods, like this number one Google hit , but you would probably know about such a scheme if it was advertised on your product and you'd likely need to have registered the purchase. <S> In this case, you bought a lock to protect the bike, and it worked, which is great. <A> Some locks offer "insurance" where you can get a payout if their lock fails to protect your bike. <S> Of course there are caveats like "lock must be used" and "thief must leave lock behind" (for inspection for weakness) and so on, and even "lock must be registered with company" <S> The only places that can tell you details would be the supplier and the manufacturer. <S> Half-related, the lock has worked this time, but thief knows what is needed next time and may return with the right tool. <S> I'd add another lock, or store the bike inside from now on. <S> You've had your warning, don't ignore it. <A> It still doesn't hurt to contact the manufacturer, but do not talk to as if they owe you anything. <S> Companies can actually do things out of the ordinary and isn't only bound by warranties. <S> Maybe they'll want your lock back to examine how it survived a theft and give you a replacement. <A> Locks are consumables. <S> Just like helmets, seatbelts and airbags, you're supposed to get a new one after it's used, even successfully. <S> In general, physical security devices are never about denying access. <S> They are about delaying access. <S> Delaying long enough that the chances of getting caught rise to the point that the risk becomes unacceptable (compared to the value of the items being stolen). <S> Anyone can defeat ANY lock, given enough time. <S> That's by design. <S> Your lock worked as it should. <S> There is no claim to be made. <S> Just like there is no claim about brake pads getting smaller from use. <S> As others have said, they MAY give you one for publicity, but that's quite far fetched. <A> You've misunderstood what a warranty is for. <S> A warranty protects you against a defective product due to, e.g., errors in manufacturing or possibly design. <S> For example, your lock's warranty might offer you a replacement if the locking mechanism jammed unexpectedly soon, or if the plastic coating on the shackle became brittle and cracked off. <S> Warranties do not protect against people actively trying to destroy the product. <S> That's what insurance is for. <A> So i went to Decathlon and as expected the guy told me that he couldn't replace the lock (Oxford Sentinel plus btw). <S> I asked him if he thought i should replace the lock <S> and he said that unless, the guy had a lot of time or an electric saw thingy, the lock should be fine because he only removed the cover bit of the lock. <S> Anyway thanks for all your help!
|
The bike was saved, your move now is to thank the manufacturer for a job well done and buy another lock. Warranties exist to protect you, the consumer, against defects in materials or workmanship, not against deliberate damage. Do an open inquiry and see if there's anything they can do.
|
Installing gear cable guide on 80s Holdsworth I have this Holdsworth frame that I got repainted and am rebuilding with mostly modern parts - I recently realised that I'm not quite sure how to run the derailleur cables past the bottom bracket. I have seen bikes from this era with brazed on above-BB cable guides, but this frame doesn't have them. I then remembered my Btwin has a plastic under-BB guide, so I got one of those but realised the hole in the Holdsworth's BB cage looks too small to have any sort of screw in it, and looks more like a drainage hole. (Also, even though the guide says "screw on type", it looks quite different from the screw on one on my Btwin, which has a split plastic nub which wedges into the BB cage hole when the screw is tightened. I'm really not sure how this one I got is supposed to be fastened - I looked up some diagrams on Shimano's site but they didn't help) Does anyone have any advice on how I should go about guiding the gear cables? Thank you! <Q> The little hole looks a similar size to the one in my early 90's steel frame BB. <S> Mine is threaded, perhaps yours is too. <S> Maybe it didn't get masked off by the painter and the thread is under the paint. <S> You could check for threading and possibly tap the hole yourself if if isn't already. <S> and there is no screw, it is held in place by cable tension. <S> I'll have a look for an image or something but might be a needle in a haystack. <S> Chances are an LBS or framebuilder/painters will have some miscellaneous ones, you could ask around in person and see if you can find one to suit your frame, designs vary. <S> Other suggestions, from here include glue (!) and double sided tape to position the guide before cable tension takes over. <S> I don't know how they would affect the paint long term. <A> I have Motobécane frame from the early eighties where a cable guide was mounted in such a hole. <S> Unfortunately I didn't take a picture before I chipped it off. <S> Here is a snippet of a photo where the cable guide is in the background: <S> It wasn't entirely clear how the guide was fixed: a bit of it protruded through the hole and was deformed so that it couldn't get out by itself. <S> There was no drain hole in the bottom bracket shell. <A> This might actually be from an earlier era, but there are clamp-on cable guides that mount on the down tube. <S> Search Ebay for "Vintage Campagnolo Record Bottom Bracket Lower Cable Guide". <S> They are pricy, but not crazy campaganolo pricy.
|
You can also get cable guides which have a little solid plastic nub which goes into the hole You could ask the painter if they remember taping it or not.
|
Why does a tire patch leak near the lip, and how to properly patch the flat? I had a flat in my back wheel because the tire was worn out. I removed it and patched it as in these directions , except for the abrasion with sandpaper, which I never do. I put the tire back in and mounted the wheel, but it deflated again overnight. The leak is under the lip of the patch, which didn't completely seal, as in these pictures: The hole was around 0.5mm so it is well covered by the rubber cement and the black area of the patch. I have patched many dozens of flats without this problem. Why does the flat still leak? Is the orange area different from the black area, and does it have to be perfectly glued to the tire? <Q> The edges of patches tend to come unstuck because you are attaching a stiff flat patch to a curved surface. <S> To avoid this, make sure that the vulcanizing solution covers the entire area of the patch, apply pressure to the entire patch while it is curing, and wait a sufficient amount of time before reinflating the tube. <S> And as others have commented, abrading the tube before patching does also help get a good seal. <S> Sometimes you’ll get a secure patch without it, but your chances are much better if you do it. <A> Sanding the patch area really shouldn't be considered optional. <S> Innertubes are coated with mold-release compound that prevents the vulcanizing agent from reacting with the rubber. <S> You can abrade it off or wash it off with soap and water. <S> The sandpaper probably also creates a little more surface area for the vulcanizing agent to react with. <S> In the case shown here, the vulcanizing agent doesn't cover enough area under the patch, as Argenti commented, so the edges don't have a chance to adhere. <S> In my experience, the tube of vulcanizing agent usually dries out before I've used all the patches that come with a kit, so there's not much point being stingy with it. <A> I took all of the above suggestions: I removed the previous patch,applied glue generously, let it sit for 10 minutes, and applied the patch. <S> Itook the "thorough pressure on the patch" too literally and used clamps;the tube adhered to the clamps and had another puncture, which I fixed in thesame way without the clamps. <S> It all works now. <S> I started using smaller patches instead. <S> All my punctures have worked without sanding, except maybe three occasionssimilar to this one where I ended up putting a patch on top of the previous patch. <S> @Criggie suggested that one could rip the previous patch and that works.
|
I had used too little glue because the patch had the width of the tube and the glue on one side didn't entirely contain it.
|
Cage Length (Rear Derallieur) and Total Capacity My drivetrain required total capacity is 14. (folding bicycle Dahon Eco C6, 14-28 rear, 1x front) The rear derailleur (Shimano TZ50, which I purchased), has total capacity = 34 and a long cage. Are there are any disadvantages , in such overkill, when total capacity of the derailleur (34) is much higher than required (14). <Q> There's a huge disadvantage for a Dahon and any other small-wheeled derailer bike, which is that the cage is gong to be unfortunately close to the ground no matter what you do, and having a longer cage than necessary makes the problem worse. <S> Shorter cages also manage chain slap better and are lighter. <A> As you no doubt know, the cage length is a significant factor in determining the link capacity of the derailer. <S> But having a longer than necessary cage has several disadvantages. <S> One disadvantage is that a longer cage tends to result in less precise/less "crisp" shifting. <A> Chain tension and control over bumps is reduced because the mere is greater leverage in the cage vi the lower pulley. <S> On a folding bike with small wheels you may find you have ground clearance problems.
|
Another disadvantage is that the longer cage is easier to damage.
|
Buy cheaper bike and upgrade Can I change group set of this bike from Tiagra to Ultegra 8XXX without changing wheel? If yes, does it depend on geometry of rear fork? I am asking because I would like to know whether it is cheaper to buy a new bike like this and occasionally change group elements (with used) Ultegra and you will get after some months one pro bike :). Thanks for your time More about what I want to buy here <Q> You can do it, but it will be much more expensive to buy the Tiagra-equipped bike and then buy Ultegra parts piece-by-piece. <S> Bike manufacturers get the parts much more cheaply than you can, and that price difference is reflected in the price of the bike. <S> Also, consider this: Ultegra is an 11-speed group. <S> Tiagra is 10-speed. <S> This means that you will need to upgrade the cassette, rear derailleur, and shifters all at once anyhow. <A> There is nothing about the wheel or frame that is incompatible with Ultegra R8000. <S> You might need an adapter for the bottom bracket but that's about it. <S> Additionally you will still have 'Tiagra level' alloy frame, wheels and everything else, which will negate having a better groupset to a large degree. <A> The only way to make this viable (economically speaking) is to find the parts you're looking for on discount during things like Black Friday. <S> It's not impossible as I have done so myself, however you'll still have to install everything by yourself or the savings will vanish when paying the shop to do it for you. <A> You could perhaps consider (if you go for the upgrade instead of the different bike route) to only replace some (the most important) parts with ultegra(or 105 if you want to save some money) and leaving the rest of the drive train parts as is (spec wise) or replacing them with higher spec but lower than ultegra/105. <S> Shifters will last you a very long time and shifting performance is very much related to proper shifters. <S> Also make sure your shift cables are in good condition to get optimal shifting performance. <S> Example setup: <S> Rear derailleur: <S> ultegraFront <S> derailleur: 105/tiagraChain <S> : 105/tiagraShifters <S> : ultegra <S> In my opinion this is a good compromise in terms of price/performance. <S> You could change the example by replacing Integra by 105 and 105 by tiagra to get a cheaper but still adequate option. <S> The modern tiagra parts are quite good imo. <S> So you could also consider 105 shifters, ultegra RD and 10 speed chain as an option <S> In regards to cutting costs: try finding the parts used but new (bought but never used) on eBay or another second hand marketplace. <S> Good deals can occasionally be found :) <A> This means Tiagra 4300 is not compatible with any other 10 speed groupset parts. <S> So its an all-or-nothing change for you, have to do the right brifter and rear derailleur together.
|
However, as others have said, groupsets are much cheaper when they come on a bike than bought separately, so you will not be saving money by upgrading incrementally. In my opinion the rear derailleur/shifter are the most important/first parts to upgrade since you shift a lot more with the rear derailleur and adjustment and such needs to be a lot more precise to produce clean shifts than in the front. Regarding ultegra being 11 speed and 105 being 10 speed: in my experience derailleurs are not speed specific and Shimano derailleurs with different 'rated' speeds can be used interchangably when using the correct shifter (same number of gears) for the casette/freewheel. Another point that could trip you up, is that tiagra 10 speed is unique and weird in its cable pull.
|
Can a road bike BB work on track bike? I have Merida track 500. It comes with a 175mm FSA vero track crankset and JIS square taper cartridge. I want to change it with Miche Pistard Air track crankset, 165mm and for that I need to change bottom bracket also. I wanted to know whether I can use road BB into my track bike. Here is the compatibility for Miche crankset. BB compatibility: -Evo Max 36x24tpi (ITA) - 1,370x24tpi (BSA) -Evo Max 68x42 (BB30) -Evo Max 68x46 (BB30) -Evo Max 86,5x41 (PF86) -Evo Max 86,5x46 (PF86) The size of Shimano BB I am looking forward to buy is BSA 1,37x24. Will it go with the crack? Please help ASAP. Are these two compatible? <Q> Bottom brackets are incredibly confusing--there is a huge number of standards, and some of them refer to the diameter in the name, some the width, etc. <S> The compatibility chart for your new crankset lists BSA as an option. <S> BSA uses the same bottom-bracket threading as JIS--which we know is already working on your bike--so that is the correct BB to get. <S> What you'll be getting is just a set of thread-in cups and bearings, rather than the cups, bearings, and spindle as you had on your old BB. <S> Italian bottom brackets are also threaded, but the thread pattern is different. <S> And the other BBs that the crankset is compatible with don't use threaded cups at all. <A> The product page you linked to is listing the crank in question as being compatible with Miche Evo Max bottom brackets, which in different types for different frame interfaces. <S> It will probably also be fine with a Shimano road BB, most 24mm road and track cranks are, but that's not being called out as compatible here, so you're rolling the dice a little. <S> One of the potential gotchas in a case like this is that this crank is the sort that uses one high-torque crank bolt on the left crank, which means unlike Shimano it does preload via either an elastomer or a wavy washer. <S> If it's a wavy washer and if it doesn't come with the crank, which they sometimes don't, then getting this plus a Shimano BB won't get you everything you need to install it. <A> The axle will probably be too long pushing the chainring too far out from where it should be which is inline with the sprocket. <S> Most track bikes have a rear spacing of 120mm and use a 107mm axle, compared to 130mm for a road bike, and all sorts of axle lengths depending on the chainring manufacturer, but mostly longer than 107mm. <A> TLDR: <S> Miche crank may not be compatible with Shimano external bearing BB. <S> The Miche BB is compatible of course and will very likely fit your frame (but bearing quality unknown, and probably not as good as Dura Ace). <S> If you are going to use the crank with the recommended Miche BB you need to know what frame BB shell width and thread size you have. <S> Majority of modern threaded shells are 'British/English' AKA 'BSA' threads. <S> The BB seems to have a varient for Italian threads as well, in case that's what you have. <S> See here for info on the difference. <S> It's very likely <S> the Miche BB is for a 68mm BB shell as that's the road bike standard, but I could not find that bit of info on the Miche site. <S> You can measure your BB shell easily of course. <S> If you want to use a Shimano Hollowtech II external bearing BB, then you need to know if the crank is compatible with that standard. <S> There are two parameters: the axle diameter and the total width of the BB when installed. <S> Hollowtech II has 24mm axles and 10mm bearing cups for total width of 88mm <S> (if I recall correctly, might be 11mm bearing cups and 90mm width). <S> I did not see "Hollowtech II compatibility" when looking at the Miche page. <S> You'll need to dig a bit deeper into the specs to find out. <S> As an aside, I don't know if there is such a thing as a dedicated track bike BB. <S> Most track bikes use a cartridge type bottom bracket with square taper cranks (or one of the splined types I guess). <S> The reason for this I believe is that cartridge BBs offer very good bearing alignment and low friction. <S> This is not guaranteed with external thread in bearings, and press in BB bearings can definitely have very bad problems in this regard. <S> You might want to think about that BTW when considering the Miche crank.
|
The Miche crank and BB may use a different axle diameter and BB width.
|
How do sidewinds affect forward speed? If I'm riding at 20mph on the flat with no wind, and then a 10mph wind kicks up, if I'm heading directly into it I'll slow down by X mph, and if I'm heading directly with it (i.e. pure tailwind) I'll speed up by Y mph. (As an aside, are X and Y likely to be the same? From experience I'm assuming not) If this is on a perfectly circular course, is the effect of the side wind (I should have said 'the angle of the wind') smoothly proportional? I.e. assuming constant power output, when doing a lap and so experiencing each angle of wind for the same amount of time, would my speed show a smooth trend from 20-X mph, through 20mph, to 20+Y mph, and then back again, maybe like a sine wave? Or do side winds mess with the cyclist in a way that pure head and tailwinds don't? For extra credit, do you know where the wind would be coming from for me to be travelling at my original speed of 20mph? <Q> The answer to your questions is not straighforward, as shown below. <S> The easiest to answer is your first question: are X and Y the same? <S> No, they are not. <S> This follows from the formula for the air-drag power <S> Pa = <S> ½.rho. <S> Cd. <S> V.(V-Vw)² , where rho is air density, <S> Cd is drag coefficient, A is frontal area, V is forward speed, Vw is wind speed. <S> Suppose that for a certain power input your speed in the absence of wind is V0. <S> Now if you keep power constant, we have for a tailwind <S> a forward speed <S> Vt : <S> Vt.(Vt - Vw)² = V0³.For <S> a headwind we have a forward speed <S> Vh : <S> Vh.(Vh + Vw)² = <S> V0³. <S> For any V0 and Vw, you can calculate Vt and Vf by solving a cubic equation. <S> It is easy to verify by substitution that for a no-wind speed of 20 mph and a wind speed of 10 mph, the headwind speed becomes 13.95 mph and the tailwind speed 27.16 mph (neglecting rolling resitance). <S> So Y>X. <S> However, I find it more elucidating to consider a return trip along a road heading straight in the direction of the wind first and returning in a tailwind on the same road. <S> Suppose that the trip without wind takes a time T0. <S> It can be shown that the total time Tw is always larger than T0 and that the ratio Tw/T0 does not depend on A, Cd and rho nor the distance : <S> Tw/T0 = <S> (V0/Vh +V0/Vt)/2. <S> A few years ago I made a graph where the ratio Tw/T0 is plotted against the wind speed, assuming a wind-free speed of 20 mph, shown below. <S> The graph shows that a wind always increases the return time. <S> At 10 mph wind speed the return time increases by 8.5%. <S> At 15 mph wind, the increase is about 20%. <S> This calculation assumes that the rolling resistance is small compared to the aerodynamic resistance, which is roughly the case at 20 mph. <S> Your question about the effect of a side wind is much more difficult to answer, because the wind-exposed area plays a big role. <S> This takes a much more elaborate study. <S> There is a free-access paper on the internet by Osman Isvan that investigates this question in depth. <S> See research paper Wind speed, wind yaw and the aerodynamic drag acting on a bicycle and rider <A> For constant input pedaling power, a sidewind will slow a cyclist down. <S> The action of the tires against the road producing a counter force also creates a force opposite to the direction of travel. <S> Unfortunately headwinds have more effect than tailwinds, because aero drag force is proportional to velocity squared . <S> [Aero drag force = <S> ½.ρ. <S> Cd. <S> A.v. 2 ] <S> [1] For a rider with Cd 0.4, area 1m 2 , air density 1.225 kg <S> /m 3 <S> Kph Drag (N)30 3025 11.820 <S> 7.5 <S> You can see the difference in force is greater for an increase of velocity than a decrease in velocity of the same amount. <A> I think this was what I was looking for, just didn't quite know how to search for it: <S> https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/wind.html <S> The diagrams show that if you have a perpendicular crosswind, if you turn 10-15 degrees so that it is coming from slightly behind you then that is about the same as no wind at all, in terms of energy expended vs speed. <A> Mathieu van rijswick has already given an excellent overview of the headwind/tailwind situation. <S> I won't repeat that. <S> However, what's missing is a good answer for side winds. <S> TL;DR: Even a perfectly perpendicular side wind slows you down . <S> Why? <S> Let's start with a brutal simplification: We model the cyclist as a single vertical cylinder so that they have exactly the same drag coefficient in all directions. <S> Yes, this is an oversimplification, but it serves our purposes. <S> Now that we have a perfectly rotationally symmetric cyclist, we can easily calculate the effective wind speed v_e that they experience by adding the vectors of the cyclists <S> speed v_c and the wind speed <S> v_w : <S> cyclist -> <S> o |\ <S> | \ <S> -v_c - <S> > <S> | <S> \ <- v_e <S> | \ <S> | \ <S> | <S> \ <S> v------X <S> ^ <S> | <S> v_w <S> This is the speed, not the force. <S> The force is quadratic with the effective wind speed. <S> So if we have a 20km/h rider with a side wind of 20km/h , the effective wind speed will be <S> v_e = sqrt(v_c^2 <S> + v_w^2)km/h = 28km/h . <S> This effective wind speed will put a force exactly twice as big on the cyclist as the headwind without any side wind. <S> cyclist -> <S> o |\ <S> | \ <S> -v_c - <S> > <S> | <S> \ <- v_e <S> | \ <S> | \ <S> | <S> \ <S> v------X <S> ^ <S> \ <S> | <S> \ <S> v_w = v_c <S> \ <S> \ <S> _| effective force is increased from no-wind scenario by factor 2 <S> This force splits into two components: One is perpendicular to the direction of travel and thus irrelevant to the work the cyclist must put out. <S> The other one is parallel to the direction of travel and slows the cyclist down. <S> Since the effective wind has a 45° angle with the direction of travel, each of the two components of the force gets sqrt(1/2) <S> = 70% of the effective force. <S> So, the total drag force experienced by our cylindrical cyclist in the side wind scenario is 2*sqrt(1/2) = <S> sqrt(2) <S> = <S> 1.41 times the drag in the no-wind scenario. <S> At first, this result seems a bit counter-intuitive. <S> However, it becomes more easier to understand when you consider that the side wind increases the amount of air that the cyclist interacts with. <S> And the more air the cyclist needs to accelerate, the more drag they experience.
|
The sidewind exerts a force on the cyclist, so they have to steer into the direction of the wind to keep on their intended course.
|
What is typically the best bolt to hold Park BBT-22 on to square-taper spindle? If one is trying to remove a stuck square-taper bottom bracket, it is hard to both hold the tool onto the bottom bracket splines and turn it at the same time. Many tools, like the Park BBT-22, have a hole so you can bolt it down using the crank bolt hole in the spindle, so you can just focus on turning it, or so you can just hold the tool in a vice and use the bike frame as a lever. However, documentation seems fairly sparse about exactly which bolt one needs for this. Obviously it's like a crank bolt, but longer. But what's crank bolt threading? What length works best? This forum thread has the advice "Get an M8x1.0 bolt 40 or 50 mm long. Note the thread pitch is 1.0 mm, not the more common 1.25 mm that is usual on M8 bolts." Can someone confirm that is correct? It seems hard to mess up the threading, but the answer is from thirteen years ago, refers to a BBT-2 rather than BBT-22 (typo?), and it's not clear what length is optimal. Hoping someone has such a bolt in their tool drawer and can just measure, so I can order the best bolt (and I'm sure I won't be the last person to have this question). <Q> There’s actually a tool made specifically for this purpose. <S> For example, here’s a link to the Pedro’s version: <S> https://pedros.com/products/tools/pedal-crank-and-bottom-bracket/bb-socket-holder-ii/ <S> They call it a “bottom bracket socket holder” <S> so try that as a search term for others. <A> I also emailed Park Tool, and C. Calvin Jones wrote back and said "[T]he M8 x 1mm x 40mm does the job nicely. <S> Another way it to use a quick-grip. <S> Of course this fills the hole where the torque wrench would go during tightening." <S> So that seems pretty definitive. <S> (A "quick grip" is what I'd call an "F clamp" or "bar clamp"). <S> I thought it would be destructive removal of the bottom bracket, but because the spindle was hard, high-carbon steel, it was the bolt's threading that got destroyed and the bottom bracket came out intact. <S> YMMV. <A> The square hole in a Park BBT-22 as actually for a 3/8 socket driver (9.525mm so a ~8mm bolt will pass through it). <S> I suspect that the thread may be different for different bottom brackets. <S> Take the crank bolt to your local hardware store or wherever has a good selection of nuts and bolts. <S> Find a nut that fits the bolt, then get a long bolt with that thread. <S> You don't need a bolt that is exactly the right length to tighten up on the BB tool before it bottoms out in the axle. <S> Either get a stack of washers and add or remove as necessary or a bolt that is a new cm too long and thread a nut onto it that you then tighten up on the BB tool once the bolt is threaded in the axle securely.
|
In a pinch, I recently used a bolt of the right diameter but wrong threading, which worked.
|
Carbon wheels set or new groupset? Currently, I'm running on Claris 3x8 speed drivetrain. I'm planning to either upgrade the groupset or a carbon wheelset. I dislike the groupset because of it's heavy and loud but usable but I want more gears in the rear. I'm leaning towards carbon wheelset because it could save major weight and its more aerodynamic. Any thoughts? <Q> You should evaluate your objectives. <S> What advantage do you feel a new wheel-set or groupset would provide? <S> If your objective is to ride faster, then I would suggest you invest the time in building your aerobic base and physical strength with interval training and some resistive weight training. <S> If your objective is to look cool then do what you wish but it is unlikely that 1. <S> a stock carbon aero wheelset exists for an 8spd hub 2. <S> it would be cost effective to have a set of wheels built with your existing hubs. <S> Also, your stopping power will be compromised in wet weather if your bike has rim brakes. <S> A bike is not like a car where an upgraded component can improve performance. <S> You are the engine and there are minimal gains to be had with components perceived to be better. <S> A pro cyclist or strong amateur can outperform most on a $100 big box store bike. <A> I think it very much depends on the bicycle, your own body and the terrain/usage. <S> If you ride on flat terrain at a continuous, high speed then aerodynamic wheels will help you the most. <S> Especially if the rest of your bicycle (+riding position) is already optimized. <S> More gears will only help you if they have smaller gear steps so you can pick the perfect gear for the desired speed/cadence. <S> If you ride on hilly terrain then weight and gears both play a role. <S> Though aerodynamics shouldn’t be underestimated. <S> If you are tall and/or heavy <S> then most of the weight and aerodynamic drag will come from your own body and you’ll benefit less from better wheels. <S> A good set of wheels can easily cost 800€. <S> The whole 2x10 Shimano Tiagra groupset (including crankset) is only ~390€, Shimano 105 or Sram Rival 2x11 <S> is ~480€. <S> Though of course you can also start with the wheels and get a new frame+groupset in the future. <S> The only consideration here is whether you’d like to have disc brakes in the future. <A> The wheels will make a bigger difference to performance. <S> The groupset will work fine if adjusted carefully.
|
A wider gear range (especially easier gears) can make you ride longer and more efficiently. If your bicycle is as old and heavy as the Claris groupset suggests then maybe you should consider a whole new (possibly used) bicycle.
|
Will 20 inch BMX wheels fit a folding bike (with 20 inch wheels)? I'm renovating a folding bike with 20 inch wheels and want to replace the wheels. Will BMX wheels fit ? EDIT 22-Feb-2020: 10mm BMX wheels dropped straight in with no mods. The BMX freewheel was threaded on, I just screwed it off and screwed on the shimano six-speed cluster from my old bike. It needed extra spacers on both sides of the rear axle beyond what came with the BMX wheels: I used the ones from my old wheels so I didn't have far to look. The only thing that shows that they are not made-to-fit is, on the front wheel, the ends of the axles stick out half an inch or so beyond the wheel nuts. I suppose I will cut them off in time. I get it that I will probably have to go single-speed and therefore also replace the crank and chain. Is there any other reason they are not compatible, like different dropouts or axle width... I also know that a 2-inch BMX tire will fit in this frame, I fitted one once. <Q> Thanks, guys, like you say "it depends". <S> But those pointers allowed we to find the answer for my own case which is: "Yes, if I get 3/8 inch BMX axles and bend (cold set) <S> the rear frame or add spacers." <S> Axle Diameter Cheap store-bought bikes like mine have 3/8" or sometimes 10mm axles, which are practically the same. <S> BMX ones are either 3/8", or are 14mm, which is a good bit larger. <S> It's not quite game-over for the 14mm BMX axles though because some have flats on them <S> so they fit 3/8 dropouts as well. <S> If the axles are solid you can file the flats yourself - but a lot are not. <S> Opinion was pretty unanimous - do NOT file-out the dropouts to take he larger axle. <S> Front Wheel <S> The width of the road and the BMX axles are both generally 100mm so <S> the 3/8" BMX front wheel often drops straight in. <S> Rear Wheel <S> The rear axle is significantly wider on a road bike - 130mm on the road vs 110mm on a BMX. <S> Or you can bend-in the rear frame if it is steel to take the narrower axle (cold setting). <S> Just want to reinforce that the full answer is indeed <S> "it depends", and this answer is specific to for cheap store-bought bikes with steel frames. <A> You are correct that different bikes have different spacings between the dropouts (and hence different how widths and axle lengths). <S> Measure the inner distance between the front and rear dropouts and compare with the specs of wheels you want to get. <S> Beware that sometimes frames and forks spring in or out a bit when the wheel is taken out. <A> Here are the wheels fitted. <S> Now, I can get on with renovating the rest of it.
|
The BMX axles might be over-length enough to fit if you put in a 10mm spacer each side.
|
Will tires with spikes on a loaded heavy touring bicycle puncture the tubes? I am thinking of buying Schwalbe "Marathon Winter Plus" or "Winter" tires with spikes. I intend to use them on a touring bike which when loaded will have: about 25kg (55 pounds) of luggage (2x5kg on the back rack and 2x5kg on the front, 3kg on the handle bar and 2kg for odds and ends). Myself 77kg (170 pounds) The bike itself, a Surly Troll around 18 kg (39 pounds) I normally inflate both tires to 3bar (43 PSI). Questions Will this load cause the spikes to puncture the tubes? What is the likelihood of the spikes puncturing the tubes? <Q> They have a pocket and flange design: <S> I don't know of a source for actual data on this other than personal anecdote, so I can offer that. <S> I have never had the stud on a commercially made/retail bought winter tire come through the casing and damage a tube, and I've never heard any of my colleagues complain about it. <S> But I have never used particularly cheap ones/off-brand, and most people around here <S> have Marathons because that's what the stores here stock. <S> Certainly with a Marathon PLUS <S> your studs are already outside what is supposed to be an industry leading protective layer, so I don't know what else you could do if it were a concern. <S> On the other side most of the so-called 'old timers' at the bike co-op will still recommend splitting and fitting an old tube on the inside of a winter tire if asked. <S> This bit of wisdom seems to be corroborated by Chris H's answer where some people have reported inconsistent quality with Schwalbes. <S> (Perhaps it is worth the extra $ for the 'Plus' model!) <A> If the weight of bike and rider increases the tire deforms more and the contact patch gets bigger until tire pressure x area = force exerted downward due to gravity acting on mass of bike and rider. <S> The force per unit area of tire or tube (i.e. pressure) remain the same. <S> Also, the pressure of the tube against the inside of the tire is the same whether that bit of the tire is pressed against the road or not. <S> The problem you may face with a heavily loaded bike is the rim bottoming out and hitting the road without exceeding the max pressure of the tires. <A> I've had exactly this happen with the "winter" tyres you're looking at . <S> I'm not light, and neither is the bike; a little of the distance was with a child on the back, so comparable to a heavy set of rear panniers <S> Schwalbe say the only difference between their "winter" vs "marathon winter" is the extra studs on the marathons. <S> The puncture protection is there on both (and the cheaper ones even have holes for the extra studs, so the moulding seems to be the same). <S> I've just fitted the old (3 or 4 winters, but only used for commuting) tyre in my old question, with a brand new one on the other wheel. <S> On the old tyre I've used a cheap tyre liner that I had lying around, though last year duct tape over the suspect studs was enough. <A> Greetings from the 60th parallel, where we ride studded tyres 5 months out of 12. <S> What is the likelihood of the spikes puncturing the tubes? <S> The first factor which this likelihood depends on is the tyre mark. <S> My commuting friends have been telling stories about Schwalbe (Marathon or not) <S> Winters doing that <S> ; I did not believe them until I got this: <S> (Naturally, this was not the only one place where the spike has rubbed the tyre through - <S> this was the first one which punctured the tube.) <S> I never heard similar complains about other tyre marks . <S> If you compare the thickness of the rubber in places where the studs sit in Schwalbe Winter and for example Nokian W106, you see notable difference. <S> Schwalbes are lighter, and this is the price. <S> Will this load cause the spikes to puncture the tubes? <S> My feeling is that it's the amount of rubbing which mostly contributes to such, well, rubbing through. <S> This amount depends on how much the tyre deflects, which in turn is a function of the applied weight and tyre pressure. <S> So (assuming my feeling is correct) you can reduce the probability of such internal puncture by running higher pressures. <S> My solution to the problem was: not save weight here and buy more sturdy studded tyres; use some liner with the Schwalbe Winters (not yet rubbed through) I have. <S> A cut-along tube or a special anti-puncture tape might carry you through the winter (or they might not).
|
The current generation of pre-manufactured winter tires you'd get from brands like Schwalbe do not use 'screw-in' style studs that have a point on the inside surface. Studs pushing through the tire carcass might occur, but Increased load on the bike will not increase the probability of it happening The pressure of the tube against the tire or the tire against the road surface is determined by the air pressure the tires are inflated to, not the weight of the bike and rider.
|
Smaller chainring on the right side of a bigger one possible? I recently converted my bicycle from a derailleur setup to an internally geared hub. During the conversion, I also replaced the previous crankset (with three chainrings) by a crankset having a single chainring. I am very happy with the result because I mostly ride in flat to slightly hilly terrain where the gear transmission ratios provided by the hub suffice. I especially like the perfect chainline on the bike. However, I might have to use the bike to climb steeper hills from time to time. For this purpose, a crankset with two chainrings might be interesting. Because with the current chainline the chainring is already very close to the frame, there is no way of adding an extra, smaller chainring to the left of the chainring I would use 99 % of the time while keeping the perfect chainline for this most important chainring. However, I have my old, now unused crankset to play around with. I wondered if it would be possible to mount a smaller chainring to the right of a bigger chainring. The answer is: Yes, it is possible, and to me it looks like it could work (see photo below). This way, I would have a rather bad chainline with the smaller chainring, but I would use it only in rare cases. The question is: Is there a reason that the chainring size in all bicycles I have seen so far increases from left to right or can this be inverted without difficulties? Has anybody here tried to change the chainring order and can tell if it works? Here is the photo of my old crankset with swapped chainrings: <Q> I've done the chain-setting by hand for a couple days when I was waiting for a replacement front mech to arrive. <S> It worked, but without a FD cage the chain could bounce around and fall off at bumps, like coasting through gravel. <S> Also, setting the chain while riding was awful-risky because you're bent right down to reach your chain. <S> It gets old fast, and every time risks catching a finger or missing something going on in the traffic. <S> Plus you get dirty fingers/gloves. <S> You already have the solution of a front derailleur. <S> The only perceived advantage is getting a straighter chainline in the big ring. <S> So the fix there is to use a triple crankset, and set your big ring in the middle position, leave the outside position empty, and put a middle ring on the innermost position. <S> The only question here will be finding a FD that moves suitably - you may need to mount it higher up the seat tube than normal, and possibly require a friction shifter not an indexed shifter to get the chain sitting right. <S> I have a shimano alfine 11 with a 22/34/44 triple, and I have never needed the granny ring even when going up a 15% gradient. <S> The granny 22 tooth simply didn't give me the 4~5 <S> km/h minimum speed I needed to keep balanced, so it was necessary to apply power in 34:gear1 or 25 gear inches, rather than down in the sub-20 gear inches ranges. <A> Since the front derailleur moves up when shifting out and the outer ring is smaller, the chain will most likely fall off. <S> And shifting inwards will wear the bigger chainring since it is not made for changing gears from the bottom right. <S> I'm not a pro at these <S> so I might look like I don't know what I'm talking about <S> but those are the things I think might happen if the chaining is like that. <A> Chainline could be an issue. <S> Cross-chaining, i.e. big ring and big cog or small-small, is bad because it increases chain wear and drivetrain friction. <S> With the large chainring on the outside as it normally is, it’s positioned to have good chainline with the middle and smaller cogs, i.e. your highest gears. <S> If the big ring was on the inside, then when you want your hardest gear, you are cross-chained. <S> The same issue exists when you want your smallest gears. <S> Also, if you put the small ring outboard and you want your lowest gear, it’s possible the chain will rub on the big ring. <S> I don’t know the angles involved, but it could rub much worse than running the rub you’d get running big-big or small-small.
|
The bigger chainring has small pins that will make changing gears smoother but the other side doesn't, so you're basically slowly but surely shift gears and wearing the chain more.
|
Switching the position of brake levers for a bike ordered from another country I purchased a bike from Germany and I noticed the front brake lever is on the left and the back brake level is on the right. I'm from the UK, and all the bikes I've ever ridden have had a setup that's opposite to this. It looks like the only way I can solve this would be to pull the brake wires out from their cables, and run them back through the levers again. This means I may need to cut the end of each brake wire. I'm wondering if there is an easier way to do this? For example, working from the levers and unhooking the top part of the brake wires? I remember when I used to repair my bikes as a teen, there was a part that I'd hook and unhook, but not 100% sure this was something to do with the brakes. I haven't worked on, or ridden a bike since I was a teen. I'm going to buy some tools to carry out this work, but just wanted to know how to easily switch over the brake order. Thanks in advance <Q> With the setup you have shown here, it looks like you could unclamp the brake levers from the handlebars, flip the left and right, clamp them back on, and be done. <S> The fixing bolts would be on top rather than the bottom, but if you can live with that, that would be the simplest method. <S> Normal road-bike levers located on the drops are often specific to the left and right hand, so this approach wouldn't really work. <S> So in that case, you'd need to re-run the cables and cable housings, which is what you are proposing. <S> This is not a difficult maintenance task, but having the right tools makes all the difference. <S> Tools a cable cutter, ideally a "bypass" cutter that leaves clean ends. <S> a "4th hand" tool to tension the cable correctly. <S> Not strictly necessary but makes the work easier. <S> Allen key--4 mm or 5 mm to lock the cable to the brake arm. <S> Pliers <S> Parts 2 new brake cables. <S> Brake cables are different from derailleur cables, so make sure to get the right kind. <S> You might be able to get away with the existing cables if there's enough excess left after you snip off the existing cable endcaps. <S> 2 brake-cable endcaps <S> Swap the cable housings between the left and right levers. <S> Brake cables usually have a mountain-bike tip at one end (looks like a small cylinder going sideways to the cable), and a road-bike tip at the other (looks like a sort of teardrop inline with the cable). <S> For these levers, you'll want to keep the road-bike tip, so cut off the mountain-bike tip. <S> Thread the cable. <S> Finger-tighten the fixing bolt on the lower brake arm and leave your allen key hanging in the bolt. <S> Use your 4th-hand tool to pull the cable: hook the cable grabber onto the excess cable below the lower arm so that the cable grabber is at the bottom, butt the other side up against the lower brake arm, then squeeze. <S> Once the brake pads are within a few mm of the rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. <S> Cut off the excess cable a few cm below the fixing bolt, then slide on the cable endcap on and crimp it with pliers. <A> If you are against the look that would be provided by simply swapping the levers, you would need to re run the cables. <S> You might be able to get away with simply crushing the cable end in the opposite direction and removing it (this has worked for me semi-regularly). <S> This may or may not leave a frayed end making rerunning the cable difficult. <S> The clamp area on the brake may have also create a flat or bent spot on the cable making the cable difficult to rerun. <S> The safe bet would be to buy an additional/new set of cables and stops, simply cut and remove the old ones and run the new ones after switching the housing ends. <A> It’s a bit of a project, but certainly don’t need to cut the wires. <S> If you grip the metal cap at the end of the wire with pliers, you can easily pull it off. <S> Then redo the cable and housing routing as you like. <S> You probably can’t reuse the cable ends that you removed, but a shop will probably give you new ones for free to crimp on. <S> In the meantime, a bit of tape is a good temporary solution.
|
What to do Snip the ends off the existing cables and pull them out through the brake levers. You'd also need to rewrap the bar tape, at minimum.
|
Why are bicycle tires incapable of maintaining pressure over time, while car tyres seem to have less of a problem? A typical car might have 2.5 bar tyre pressure, and use the Schrader valve system. A typical mountain bike might also have approximately the same tyre pressure, perhaps a bit more, and also use the Schrader valve. Why is it that a car tyre seems capable of maintaining most of its pressure after a year, while a few weeks might be enough to notice a significant difference in bike tyre pressure? There are other related questions here, such as: Do tire / tube / valve combinations that don't leak air exist? How long should a road tyre hold its pressure? These questions have answers that discuss how air can leak mostly through the rubber itself, but also in the valve system. This only brings me back to my own question: Is the rubber that different on a car? Are there any tires I can get for my bike that will not leak? I'm sure I'm not the only one that finds it annoying to maintain the bicycle tire if there is really no need for it with the right kind of material properties and valve systems to prevent that. When people can justify spending large sums on relatively minuscule gains, why not more of a focus on maintenance free tires? <Q> A car tyre has much thicker rubber than a tubeless bike tyre, thicker still than a tube. <S> The steel wires in the belts of a car tyre are impermeable to gas and occupy a significant fraction of the area of that layer. <S> So there is a material difference. <S> In both cases the rim can be regarded as impermeable, and the sidewall more permeable than the tread. <S> Car tyres, despite their much squarer cross-section, have a larger ratio of volume to surface area. <S> The volume determines the remaining pressure, while the surface area determines the leak rate. <S> Even taking that into account, car tyres don't really hold enough air for a year. <S> The fact that they may give acceptable handling for months on end has a lot to do with how forgiving driving a car can be compared to running on two wheels. <S> Try asking a motorcyclist (dimensions and construction close to car tyres) how often they top up the air. <S> But still, a few months should be OK on a car, <S> though topping up once a month should improve your fuel consumption. <S> I don't run tubeless, so the following assumes tubes. <S> My tourer and hybrid, pumped to the max pressure, gives an acceptable ride for about 3 weeks on ~32mm tyres with cheap tubes. <S> That's starting from nearly 6 bar (85 psi) <S> so over twice what most cars take. <S> My MTB doesn't get ridden much at the moment, but again with cheap tubes (though obviously fatter) can hold trail pressures for a little longer than that. <S> In practice I pump it up almost every use, because I tend to ride on road to the trails then let out some air. <A> The biggest drivers are: <S> The pressure itself: bike tyres usually run much higher pressure than car tyres, and this pressure is the driving force for leakages, hence bike tyres leak more. <S> The pressure remaining inside the tyre is essentially the amount of air still remaining, and car tyres having a significantly higher volume. <S> That means for the same absolute amount of leakage, they lose less air relative to the the amount of air they contain (hence retain higher pressure). <S> This effect is also visible for different bike types - a road race bike running at 8..10 bar needs <S> re-inflating a lot more than a mountain bike running at 2..3 bar <A> I think you have a wrong starting point. <S> At this time there is an ad on the Dutch radio, reminding car owners to top up their car tires once every second month. <S> As the loss of air makes the car spend more energy to drive, even though in the car you do not notice the difference. <S> On the other hand, when I get a good top up in my bicycle tires, (tube in tire system) I do not need to repeat that for quite a while. <S> At the moment I am at about 3 months and the tires do not feel as if they need a top up. <S> There have been times I can get longer out of it, depending on temperatures and use of a bike. <S> Of course, build of tubes and tires will make a difference. <S> There will be a big difference between the lightest versions for racing bikes and the sturdy tubes and tires used on bikes for rough surface use, that might be a bigger difference than between the average car tire and bike tire. <A> A car tyre has a thick carcass of varying materials that are all part of keeping the air in but a bicycle has just the inner tube and that is one relatively thin layer of butyl rubber. <S> As mentioned in the linked questions and answers, inner tubes themselves are not 100% airtight. <S> The butyl rubber is permeable and will allow gasses to escape. <S> What I haven't found is data to show how quickly you should expect to lose air from a bicycle innertube. <S> A car tyre, however, is expected to lose about 1-3 psi per month . <S> It also depends on what you filled the inner tube with. <S> CO2 is soluble in butyl rubber , so when you use a CO2 cartridge to inflate your tyre you should expect it to need topping up very soon. <S> You'd think tubeless bicycle tyres would be better but in my experience, they lose air faster than my tubed tyres. <S> So the lowest maintenance combo would probably be a good quality thick innertube in a mountain bike tyre, filled with argon gas.
|
Assuming we are talking about tubeless vehicle tyres against bicycles using inner tubes then I would think the biggest difference is mostly that it's a thick tubeless tyre designed to hold air vs a thin layer of rubber.
|
Wheel tru, bearing & cones tight but still WOBBLES I have a 35 year old Trek Mountain bike that I have refurbished.- Rear wheel is true within +/-5 thousandth (it is true as mounted on the bike using a calipers clamped to the frame and perpendicular to the rim)- Bearings (9 x 1/4") have been replaced and cone is tight (no perceptible rocking)- All spokes are intact- The wheel is set all the way back in the frame slot When I spin the wheel under no load, as expected, it spins true without any perceptible wobble. BUT when I ride, I feel and hear it rubbing back-and forth on the brakes -- and when I look down, I can see the wheel (and the rim itself) very clearly wobbling back and forth between the caliper pads. Also, if I put lateral pressure on the rim with my fingers, I can feel it giving laterally, though this may be normal given that it is all under tension anyway. Note bike was working fine until last week. What could be causing a wobble under load that doesn't exist under no-load? Could it be that the spokes aren't under enough tension? (i.e. would it be helpful to say tighten each spoke by say 1/2 turn?) Thanks <Q> As one commentator pointed out, the frame was actually cracked (severed even) at the end of the chain stay (on the gear side) near where the wheel is mounted. <S> For some reason I only noticed it tonight after riding home from work and experiencing an even worse wobble. <S> Perhaps the crack got worse and became through-and-through on my long commute today. <S> While frustrating, I guess I am lucky I didn't get hurt... <S> Thanks for all the helpful suggestions... <S> One question, is it possible (and worthwhile) to have someone weld it back together -- while the bike is almost 40 years old, the frame is solid, heavy and steel (it's a Trek Mountain Bike from the early 1980's). <A> You can easily just compare them to another wheel to get them in the ballpark without needing a tension meter. <S> How much is it moving under load and are you sure it's not an optical illusion caused by the tyre (which can often be much more uneven than the rim especially if yours is within a thousandth of an inch)? <A> Sounds like you need to closely check the spoke tension. <S> Or the rim maybe very slightly cracked, which causes the inconsistency in whether it’s true or not. <A> One possible explanation is broken rear axle. <S> This is easy to notice if you remove the rear wheel.
|
I think the next thing to check is that the rim isn't cracked (the drive side spoke holes is the usual place) and after that check the actual frame isn't cracked. Unless the spoke tension is so low that spokes are actually going slack as you ride it won't make any difference.
|
I want to replace 52/36 chainrings with 50/34 chainrings on a Praxis Works I want to replace 52/36 chainrings with 50/34 chainrings on a Praxis Works. Is this possible without changing the crank? Also if possible would other modification be required such as the chain and possible the front derailleur <Q> Looking at the road Praxis chainrings page , 52/36 through 48/32 ring sets are all offered in 110mm BCD. <S> All the roads cranks seem to have an evenly spaced 5 bolt pattern. <S> Without knowing exactly what crank <S> you have I can't say for sure, but it seems likely you can fit smaller rings. <A> IMHO, If you can buy a separate ring then you better replace just the small ring from 36 to 34 teeth. <S> Doing this has some benefits; 1) <S> You probably don't need to adjust Front Derailleur. <S> Just double check if front shifting is fine, be careful on derailleur height from big ring and L limiter for small ring. <S> I did this on my 2 bikes, never drop a chain during shifting. <S> 2) You can leave the chain as it is. <S> No need to shorten it. <S> Because Shimano's method measuring the chain length with big ring in front and big cog in the back, small chainring is not involve. <S> 3) <S> Wider gear range. <S> High gear remains the same ratio while low gear gets lower ratio. <S> A jump in ratio might be a little too high for racer, but it is beneficial for non-racer. <A> You should be able to do it with your current cranks as long as you get chainrings with the correct BCD (Bolt Center Distance). <S> How to measure your current BCD: <S> https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/how-to-measure-bolt-circle-diameter-bcd <S> (positioned slightly lower on the seat tube than it was originally), in order to compensate for the slightly smaller diameter of the new chain rings. <S> How to check if chain length is correct: The chain might need to be shortened by 2 links to get perfect chain length <S> but it should work with current chain length (since the difference in teeth between original and new chain rings is only 2 teeth). <S> How to adjust front derailleur (in your case most likely only the derailleur's height will need to be adjusted): when adusting the front derailleur make sure that: 1) <S> The cage is parallel to the chain (scenario C): 2) <S> The derailleur is at the correct height: To adjust the height press the derailleur outwards such that the outside part of the cage is hovering over the outer chainring and make sure the distance between the bottom of the cage and the top of the chainring teeth is approx 1-3mm.
|
You might want to adjust your front derailleur so that it's a few mm more towards the bottom bracket
|
Keeping face warm in the winter I regularly use a hat under my helmet and a neck warmer. This keeps me relatively warm in the winter but leaves a bit to be desired. What are the best options to keep your face warm? Some people in NYC particularly those riding electric devices wear full face motor cycle style helmets. I’ve never tried that but it must keep you warm... <Q> A trick that I found is used by NFL players to keep their face warm :"A jar of Vaseline is an old trick from veteran players to block out the wind"source: https://www.espn.com/nfl/story/_/id/14525394/seven-ways-nfl-players-stay-warm-frigid-conditions-nfl BONUS: If you get too hot with the vaseline on you can use the excess to lubricate your drivetrain. <S> I think some skiing/snowboard goggles with a clear lense will also help in keeping your face warm. <S> Something like this <S> : https://mx-deals.nl/oakley-crossbril-o-frame-jet-black-clear-lens.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAluLvBRASEiwAAbX3GU82TCnNSiATDbKyg5txyfgQ22RLn0RFJsY-fwpcHCIu53Mn8MTdwxoCEVkQAvD_BwE <S> A balaclava looks like it would keep you warm, you might draw unwanted attention though. <S> This might be a more subtle but similar alternative: <S> There are even versions of balaclavas which have heating elements inside: https://www.thewarmingstore.com/heated-balaclava.html <S> I've done a quick search regarding heated motorcycle helmets and could not find much <S> so I assume it will not be needed even in cold conditions. <S> One comment I found on a forum thread regarding heated motorcycle helmets (to illustrate their effectiveness at keeping your head warm) <S> : "Are you serious? <S> Why would you actually need that? <S> A helmet acts like a thermos for your head because of the EPS liner. <S> Keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. <S> " source: <S> https://advrider.com/f/threads/heated-cooled-helmet.639790/ <S> There are heated face shields for full face helmets <S> but I believe their main purpose is to prevent frosting/condensation on the face shield itself, not so much to keep your head warm. <S> They look like this: <A> A full-head balaclava that covers the lower face does a good job, but these can be too warm once you get going. <S> I have one that has a separate lower face panel that can be pulled up or down as needed. <S> There are neck buffs that can be pulled up over the face. <S> Used with a under-helmet hat they provide more adjustability. <S> There are also face makes made out of a stiffer material with vent holes for breathing that prevent glasses or goggle from fogging up. <A> I don't like having my nose or mouth covered when riding. <S> When it's down around freezing, I wear a neck buff pulled up just under my mouth and over my ears, although I could pull it up to cover my mouth if I wanted. <A> I bought a ColdAvenger a long time ago for bicycling to work in around-freezing temperatures and found it worked very well, but reviews online seem to be mixed. <S> See picture below:
|
A full face helmet will definitely also help in keeping you warm, but it's not the most practical solution.
|
Why is one screw in V-brake a lot tighter? I noticed that whenever tuning my V-brakes, I always have to tighten one of the screws a lot more than the one on the other side. I was wondering why this is the case. Of course this means the spring on one side is working a lot more than the other one. This difference seems to get larger very slowly. I even bought a used bike a few years ago and the brakes were so bad I actually had to use holes in different positions to install the V-brakes (one in the middle, one in the bottom). Worked well enough, though... So is there anything I am doing wrong when tuning the brakes? Is there a problem if I change one of the screws by a longer one if necessary? I usually leave one screw untightened and just tighten the other one as necessary, to minimize tension. <Q> Try spraying some penetrating fluid like wd-40 in between the brake arm and the pivot and see if that helps at all. <S> If cleaning (thoroughly, when taken apart) doesn't solve the issue I can think of a few alternative reasons your brake arm might not be properly moving: <S> The cable and housing can pull the brake arms to one side (adjust cable routing)(suggested by @Argenti Apparatus in the comments) <S> Mount bolt too tight on 1 side Spring incorrectly installed (unlikely) <S> one of the o-rings seen in the diagram below is incorrectly installed/seated <S> Are you sure your rim is properly centered in between the two brake arms? <S> If not your wheel might need dishing or it might need to be centered on it's axle. <A> Springs get old and loose their "sproing" over time, and not necessarily at the same rate. <S> Replacement springs may be available, but its generally less faff to replace the whole lot. <S> Most new aftermarket V brakes come as a set of two arms, brake pads, and springs. <S> You may or may not get bolts for your frame bosses, and generally you won't get a noodle. <S> And be mindful of the difference between V brakes and Mini V Brakes, which may not suit your levers. <S> Get the same length arms as your existing ones. <S> And if you're going that far, its pragmatic to replace the inner and outer cable at the same time. <S> There's no reason to change your brake lever assuming its working <S> okay. <S> When you fit new arms, give the frame bosses a good clean, and a light/gentle polish with some emery paper to clean any dings. <S> Also ensure the boss studs are not loose in the frame, and are parallel with each other. <A> It's not necessarily a problem when there's disparity between the centering screws. <S> The whole reason they exist is to be able to adjust the springs to different amounts of tension to compensate for asymmetry or imprecision in the brake posts, the springs, the brake arm forgings, etc. <S> If one arm is overtly sticky or rough when you disengage the spring <S> then you address that by cleaning and lubricating it, but don't worry about it otherwise. <S> Sometimes this is fixable, but sometimes not.
|
I suspect the brake arm with the tighter screw needs a good cleaning of its internals. Sometimes this is also caused by one screw missing the stub of spring entirely because of wear or imprecision in the spring carrier assembly, which usually results in that spring having no preload despite the screw being threaded in some amount, and then the other one will usually have to be nearly all the way out.
|
Can this crack in the steel chain-side dropout be welded? I have a thru-crack on the driveside dropout near where it meets the chain stay.The bike is an early 1980's steel frame Trek mountain bike. See pics. Bike rides fine otherwise and I have invested a lot of love (and sweat) in cleaning it up... If it can be welded simply and securely (at minimal cost), I will keep it -- otherwise I guess I have no choice but to throw it out. (Note that I don't think Trek had a lifetime frame warranty in those days, plus I no longer have the receipt — it was a present from my parents). <Q> A lifetime frame warranty may not require that you have the receipt. <S> Several of the shops I worked at did frame warranty work with no receipt. <A> You need to consult in person with someone local to you who can make a qualified recommendation. <S> "It is Steel <S> so can be welded" is mostly true, but there are always exceptions. <S> A good welder will give you their professional advice. <S> Don't bother asking someone with a stick welder in their garage. <S> I've personally just got a quote on welding a crack in a seat tube, and that came in at $100 NZ. <S> The bike cost me half that to buy, but I can't replace the frame for anything like that. <S> When you do find someone local, prepare the frame by stripping everything off the bike. <S> Everything that is not frame needs to be removed, and you should cover and protect all the threads/bearing surfaces with rags and tape. <S> Yes, I would remove the fork and headset, and the bottom bracket, leaving just Frame and Paint. <S> The only non-frame thing I might leave in there would be an old scrap axle bolted into the dropouts, to help keep everything in line and not getting extra-stressed while manhandled. <S> Also, clean the bike. <S> Noone likes getting dirty, and your welder is more likely to agree if its not filthy. <S> They may suggest a sleeve or fishplate for strength — take that advice. <S> Figure out if it will interfere with your chain/cassette or fitting of the rear wheel. <S> And lastly, if its not safe to fix, or if its super expensive, consider retiring the frame and put those costs toward another bike. <A> Yes I think it can be repaired as the failure is of the dropout itself which is quite thick steel (about 4 or 5mm). <S> It needs the paint removing an inch or so out, to be cleaned up, beveled and carefully TIG welded. <S> I have repaired a very similar failure like this before although that was a little bit easier as the break was a bit further away from the end of the chainstay. <S> The chainstay is brazed into the dropout <S> so we don't know for sure if it is a weldable alloy. <S> But it probably is (it is most likely 4130 cromoly). <S> If it's welded at the BB end that proves it is. <S> There's therefore no harm in the repair tying in to the end of the chainstay a bit. <S> As Carel said there is a risk of the existing braze melting out and ruining your day as it's so close. <S> But still worth a try <S> I'd say. <S> Or you could make a slightly bigger one so you can cut the stays back a bit. <S> Either way you also need a jig or fixture to hold the dropout in the right place. <S> All this would be quite a bit more work <S> so probably would not be economical. <S> Having said all this I can't guarantee that whoever you take it to will want to have anything to do with it or how much he would charge. <S> It wouldn't take more than about 20 minutes to do. <A> As a welder who has extensive experience with thin wall tubing. <S> This could easily be welded with TIG. <S> Depending on the metals just a little Beveling and alignment of the stay in a jig <S> and you’ll be all set. <A> I'm a TIG welder. <S> The dropout could welded and re-brazed into the frame, but better to make or get a new dropout and braze that in. <S> Best option is see a framebuilder in your area or cheaper option would be a engineering shop that does brazing and welding.. <A> Yes, I would TIG weld it but insert a small piece of flat steel that would go into the tube and lay flat on the rear wheel yoke by about 25mm then weld all round. <A> I'm also a combination welder, MIG or TIG <S> would be a good choice as long as the parent metals are throughly cleaned and free of paint and dirt. <S> I use this method or race car chassis's after drivers have had a hard impact.
|
As for the inspection of all other welds the use of die penatrant and developer is the easiest and fastest way to check for cracks. Replacing the whole dropout is quite tricky because you'd need to find one the same size and then try and unbraze the existing one without damaging the ends of the stays. If the welder suggests unbrazing and replacing the dropout instead of welding, then you should take that advice. Take it to a Trek dealer and see what they say. The break is thru the drop out not the brazed joint
|
My bike makes a constant squeak noise I have a Trek Ermonda AL 4 and whenever I pedal forward, I hear a loud and irritating squeaking noise from the middle center of the bike. If I pedal softly I don't hear the noise as much and if I pedal super hard I also dont hear the noise as much. Its just mainly whenever I'm riding at a decent pace. I just replaced the cassette and my derailleur.CrankShimano Tiagra, 50/34 (compact) Bottom bracketPress Fit BB86.5 <Q> Bicycle drivetrains can make all kinds of squeaking or creaking noises and it's not obvious where exactly the noise is coming from. <S> You have to use a process of elimination to track them down. <S> Can you replicate the noise with the back wheel off the ground and turning the pedals by hand. <S> If so is the sound coming from the front crank area or the rear derailleur area? <S> Does the noise continue when you stop pedaling? <S> If not turn your attention to the rear wheel. <S> Dry chains tend to squeak. <S> Bad rear derailleur indexing, chain rub on front derailleur tend to clatter or rattle. <S> Another prime suspect would be the rear derailleur jockey wheels, but you said you just replaced the derailleur. <S> Check <S> the crank is spinning freely and there is no play in the bearings. <S> This is easier if you open the front derailleur cage and pop the chain off the chainrings. <S> Also check <S> both the pedals are turning freely and there is no play in the bearings. <S> Try unclipping one foot at a time while riding. <S> If the squeak disappears when you unclip a foot it's that pedal. <A> 1. <S> Lube seat/seat post, saddle rails2. <S> Check pedal and cleat interface. <S> I’ve had issues with spd, spd-SL, look keo and delta cleats. <S> 3. <S> 4. <S> Bar and stem and brake lever mounts (for road bike)5. <S> Derailleur jockey wheels 6. <S> Chainring bolts7. <S> Then clean and lube chain properly Good luck <A> Given that it doesn't do it when coasting and it does when pedalling either in or out of the saddle <S> it's most likely to be the cleats, which can be noisy, or it could be the side of your shoe rubbing against the crank. <S> If the former then just ignore it. <S> It is considered normal and harmless. <A> Many Trek dealers offer the first tuneup at no charge. <S> It is a proper, thorough wash and tune. <S> Make certain to tell the service dept about the issue when you drop it off. <S> Bike shops are also FAR better at diagnosing mysterious creaks.
|
Bottom brackets tend to creak more when applying high torque through the pedals. If the latter try moving the cleat a bit towards the inside to offset your whole shoe a fraction towards the outside. My first guess is that your chain is not lubricated properly. Lube and torque rear derailleur hanger. The best way to handle this is to use process of elimination. If YOU purchased the bike locally, you can bring the bike into the shop where you purchased it and have them service it for you.
|
What are the round things near the main front cog? This bike in this picture has two rollers near the front sprockets. The chain goes through the lower one and not the top one. I've no idea on their purpose vs other bikes that don't have them and notice that they make a lot of noise. Questions What are they, what are they typically used for? Are they needed? What would happen if if remove them? Please refer to the image below <Q> They are chain keepers. <S> Back in the day before narrow-wide chain and 1x transmissions, the front mech/derailleur was a great way to keep the chain on the chainring. <S> And given bikes had two or three chainrings the front mech was necessary for changing gears. <S> However MTB riders liked to bounce around a lot, and that could still "throw the chain" which removed your propulsion. <S> This was not ideal. <S> The two rollers pictured work more like guides than like jockey wheels. <S> They are there to guide the chain, and may or may not have teeth. <S> These would be more common on bikes with full suspension, where the chain tension changes as the shock compresses. <S> Your bike appears to be a hard tail, so only chain slap from bouncing or landing can cause a derailment. <S> As for "chain goes over bottom roller and clear of the top roller" its because the plate in the back is maladjusted and needs to be rotated a few degrees anti-clockwise as pictured. <S> That it still rides okay as shown proves that this tensioner is relatively unnecessary. <S> You might be able to tap it into position using some gentle percussive maintenance, though this may upset the bottom bracket. <S> If you remove the two guide wheels it would leave the chain a bit long, so two or perhaps four links might need removing. <S> I'd leave it in place personally once its adjusted. <S> They make a lot of noise because the bearings are probably dry. <S> So remove, service and reinstall would be ideal. <A> The wheels in question are chain guides. <S> Their purpose is to maintain chain alignment and tension. <S> As far as if they are needed it's hard to say. <S> It is unusual to see them mounted on an entry level bike with a single speed front crank. <A> I suspect that they were added just for looks. <S> On this bike they are doing nothing except maybe adding friction and impeding the movement of the chain (well, the top one isn't as it's not touching the chain). <S> You can remove them without affecting the function of the bike. <S> You should check that the derailleur can still take up the slack in the chain when it is on the smallest rear sprocket.
|
As others have said these are chain keepers or tensioners designed to keep the chain on the front sprocket. If you remove teh whole plate, that will move the Drive side bearing cup inboard and possibly change the chainline. Most of the bikes that require them are bikes with long suspension travel or single speed bike that has limited rear wheel travel. Given this bike has a derailleur protector and relatively small rims, I think its a kids bike and the guides are more about protecting the bike from mistreatment rather than keeping the chain on during technical sections.
|
Should I buy this bike with a dent in the top tube? Is it safe? I'm considering buying this used steel-frame bike. But the top tube has a small dent (about one-third of the way from the saddle). Is this a problem? I plan to use it daily (~6-7mi) for commuting to work. Here's the link: https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/genesis-cdf-racer-/1361247559 <Q> A small dent in a steel frame should not be a problem. <S> However, It's hard to see how big that dent is in the pictures provided. <S> Damage to the top tube may indicate that something heavy fell on the bike. <S> If the top tube is bent then the frame will be weakened. <S> Don't buy this bike without inspecting it bike personally. <S> If the dent is small use it as leverage to negotiate the price down. <S> Check for other damage too. <A> Perhaps a better question would be to ask if you would allow your spouse, partner, daughter or son to strap on a heavy backpack, then attempt to set Strava descending record down the twistiest, steepest, and busiest road you know of. <S> If it fails, the consequences are high. <S> Do not purchase a damaged bike. <A> The answer depends on whether the dent is small. <S> How small is small? <S> Small dents can be repaired. <S> The website sheldonbrown.com says: "Small dents:Don't worry about these. <S> A professional framebuilder may use metal blocks, drilled out to the diameter of the tube and sawed in half, then clamped over the tube. <S> Because the margins of the dent are raised, clamping the blocks down may push the dent out." <S> https://www.bikeradar.com/features/rolling-the-dents-out-of-a-steel-frame-is-incredibly-satisfying-to-watch/ <S> Other websites suggest simply filling small dents in bike frames with car body filler. <S> Dents in motorcar bodies can be pulled out using hot glue and a slide hammer, but a bike frame may be too thick for this, unless you have a lot of patience. <S> I have never tried it, but I would try, if ever my bike frame got a dent. <A> In all honestly, I wouldn't trust it as a daily commuter. <S> There's a high chance that it will be fine, but there is still a chance for it to fail. <S> Especially if you decide, for any reason, to be fully loaded. <S> Also, we don't know how much you weigh, or how much stuff you will be travelling with. <S> Another thing to look out for is whether the bike is stolen, that dent looks similar to what would happen if someone yanked it from it's lock, and if it was a cheap lock then it could break. <S> The bike is cheap though, and if it were me, I'd buy it just for the parts! <S> Try and source a replacement frame and swap all bits over. <S> But again, I don't know how mechanically inclined you are.
|
In theory, the frame could be absolutely fine, but with use, there's a chance that the dent has exposed the frame to the elements and more likely to fail over time with corrosion etc.. There is simply no way to recommend to someone else to say it would be safe to ride a bike with obvious damage.
|
What is the purpose of an insert pin for Magura brake hoses? I just upgraded my broken Magura HS11 brake lever assembly to a HS33R . The new HS33R was packaged with a sleeve nut and an olive, which I used to connect the brake hose to the brake lever assembly. This all works as intended. If you look online for "Magura olive" you often find sites, that sell them as a kit with an insert pin. Do I need one or are they only used with disk brakes? What is the purpose? I also found an official video guide for shortening the brake hose and the manual , but neither mention them. <Q> I assume by 'pin' you mean the following part: <S> In other words: When tightening the sleeve nut the olive will be compressed and its inner diameter will decrease slightly (eventually causing the olive to seal against the outside of the brake hose). <S> The insert serves the purpose of supporting the brake hose in order to get a better seal (more pressure in between olive and brake hose which in turn results in the olive/outer surface of brake hose to get a better seal relative to each other). <S> Brake hose inserts are not unique to Magura by the way, I believe (almost) all bicycle hydraulic brakes use a similar insert when working with a sleeve nut tightening system. <S> Designs may vary between manufacturers however, so use the type specified by the manufacturer of your brake. <S> I would highly recommend istalling the insert to be sure that you get the best seal possible/your brake won't leak. <S> Sometimes you can reuse the insert (if you manage to get it out of the brake hose), you can burn/melt the brake hose away if it's really difficult to get off in other ways, a new olive would definitely be recommended over re-using an old one to prevent possible leaking of brake fluid. <S> A similar insert is used for plastic central heating pipes in order to prevent them from 'collapsing' when press-fitting the fittings onto the pipe. <S> This video shows you how to install the insert/'pin' : <S> ( watch from 2:39 ) <A> I already fitted a hose into a lever without this insert and it was really a bad idea : huge fluid leakage, and impossible to get any braking. <S> So from my experience : this insert is mandatory. <A> I sent an email to Magura to ask about the insert. <S> Their response: <S> Die Stützhülse ist nicht bei unseren HS Bremsleitungen zu <S> verwenden, <S> hier genügen der Klemmring und die Überwurfschraube. <S> Für den Teilebedarf zum korrekten Leitungsanschluss helfen die nachfolgenden Explosionszeichnungen wohl am besten weiter. <S> In English: The insert isn't used with our HS Brakelines, the olive together with the sleeve nut is enough. <S> The following exploded drawings show the parts required for a correct brake line connection.
|
This part is called the 'insert' or 'connecting insert' and its purpose is to 'support' the (non rigid) brake hose in order to prevent it from crushing/reducing drastically in diameter when the sleeve nut is tightened causing the olive to be compressed onto the brake hose.
|
Touring with kids - tag along and kids trailer behind same bike I am wondering if anyone has experience of pulling tag-along and then kids trailer? Would that be possible to tag a kids trailer to a 20 inch tag along? <Q> Those of us who tow bike trailers have generally encountered a situation where some other road user underestimates your total length. <S> If your road-train bike was <S> three units long there's more opportunity for someone else to screw-up and clip the end of your setup. <S> An off-road path or a park would be a much safer way to try this - if you intend to ride this on the road <S> then I strongly recommend a flag on a pole for each unit. <S> Perhaps even flag bunting between the poles (ie a string with little flags on it) <S> If you already own the three parts, there's no harm in trying it. <S> Start by rigging the train empty and see how it handles in a safe location. <S> For a better test, add some non-live ballast to the trailer (easy) and perhaps the tagalong (harder to do) <S> OPINION: <S> It looks quite fun, but I'd not ride that rig on a public road. <A> Sounds like a bad idea. <S> The biggest concern would be how the setup would act under hard braking, especially when going down an incline. <S> There will a lot of mass to stop which means your stopping distance will be very long. <S> Additionally the trailer and tag-along chain will be unstable under braking and may jack-knife. <S> Update: <S> Having a pro mechanic at a bike shop inspect and set them up would be a good idea. <A> I tow a 18 foot canoe with my bike, which is much longer and heavier then your setup. <S> As Criggie says use lots of flags. <S> Add a dash of common sense and give it a try. <S> Related post <S> How to tow a canoe with a bicycle?
|
If you are going to try this in a controlled fashion as Criggie suggests in his answer, Make sure your brakes are in good shape and properly adjusted first.
|
Reinforced Shimano pin snapped before connecting chain - how to resolve? My previous chain snapped weeks ago and only got a new one sorted. I've cut the chain to the right size, fed it through the derailleurs and onto the bike correctly. The last step was to use the reinforced Shimano pin to connect the new chain together. Unfortunately the reinforced pin snapped as it was being put into its slot. My wife was doing it so I'm not 100% sure what happened but she said it snapped very easily and unexpectedly. My only guess is that the chain tool wasn't going straight? Anyway, the actual link that you'd want to stay in and connected, wasn't far enough in yet so it fell out, the 'snapping' bit is now stuck pertruding out of the chain. I've never replaced a chain like this before so I'm slightly weary of doing damage. It'll be tricky, but should I be able to use the already snapped pin to connect the chain and hopefully it'll help push out the snappable portion? Should I attempt to get another reinforced pin instead of attempting the above and start again? I could attempt to pull out the 'snappable' portion with pliers but again slightly worried about causing damage! <Q> You can often use the chain tool to drive the half-way inserted pin back out from the chain. <S> I do not think it is advisable to attempt pressing it in again. <S> It is certainly possible, I did re-pressed regular roller pins a couple of times when I or someone else accidentally pressed them out too far so that they fell off. <S> It is not the most enjoyable experience, especially as the roadside repair. <S> You can get another reinforced pin and try again. <S> Alternatively, you could get a so-called master link which replaces one of the half-links on the chain (presumably one at the end of your chain with the broken pin sticking out of it). <S> The master link allows to close the chain using no tools at all, and often to open the chain using special pliers (or just bare hands, with enough swearing). <S> Several companies manufacture such links for chains of different widths (for cassettes from 8 to 12 speeds). <S> They are generally compatible with chains of all vendors, e.g. you can use a KMC master link on a Shimano or SRAM chain with no issues. <A> I think you can drive the detached 'leader' part of the pin out, then drive in a second connector link as normal. <S> The part of the connector pin that stays in the chain has a slightly greater diameter than the regular pins so that it has an interference fit in the link plates. <S> This is why if you want to re-break the chain you have to do it at a different link. <S> The first pin would widen the hole in the link plate then the second pin would not have the proper interference fit. <S> The leader part that gets snapped off is of slightly narrower diameter and just serves to line the link plates and roller up properly. <S> That means you can drive the snapped off one through without damaging the link plates, then drive in a replacement connector link. <A> I would use your existing 'snapped' connector pin and drive it in with the chain tool to force out the piece that is stuck (as you suggested in post). <S> And finally I would start over with a new connector pin. <S> It's definitely worth carrying a few shimano pins and quick links in your saddle bag. <S> They are cheap, weigh virtually nothing and can save you a long walk home.
|
I would then drive out the connector pin with the chain tool (as if I were breaking the chain).
|
How can I connect two pieces of square aluminum tubing together to make a bike trailer using n55 docs? Me and a friend are trying to build a trailer using principles found here ... http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRAMEVEHICLES/DIY.pdf They are using 25 mm aluminum square tubing with a 2mm thickness and 6.5mm holes. At the bottom of the docs is a bill of materials listing the materials. It appears they are just drilling holes and than inserting a bolt and nut to connect the pieces. Is this what they are doing? More specifically does their need to be a washer on both sides? <Q> Here is a nice clear picture of the basic joint used in constructing things from their website. <S> There is a washer on both sides. <S> Their bill of materials calls for stainless bolts, stainless washers and stainless self-locking nuts: <S> B O L T S & N U T S M6 SELFLOCKING NUTS, stainless (DIN985) <S> - ca. <S> 150 pieces (TWOSEATER: 200 pieces) <S> M8 SELFLOCKING <S> NUTS, stainless (DIN985) - ca. <S> 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: <S> identical) M8 NUTS NORMAL, stainless - ca. 5 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 and M8 BOLTS with Hexagon head, <S> stainless, (DIN931): 6mm x 140 mm - ca. 2 pieces <S> (TWOSEATER: 3 pieces) 6mm <S> x 90 mm - ca. <S> 15 pieces (TWOSEATER: 20 pieces) 6mm <S> x 90 mm - ca. <S> 5 pieces in DIN 933 (full thread) <S> (TWOSEATER: identical) <S> 6mm x 60 mm - ca. <S> 60 pieces (TWOSEATER: 120 pieces) 6mm <S> x 65 mm - ca. <S> 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: <S> identical) 6mm x 40 mm - ca. <S> 25 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) <S> 8mm x 120mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) 8mm x 100mm, 2 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) M6 WASHERS - ca. <S> 300 pieces (TWOSEATER: 400 pieces) <S> M8 WASHERS - ca. <S> 10 pieces (TWOSEATER: identical) Concerning galvanic corrosion : <S> Stainless steel fasteners in aluminium plates or sheets are normally considered safe, whereas aluminium rivets or bolts holding stainless steel parts together is an unwise combination, as there is a practical risk of corrosion. <S> An example of the safe use of stainless steel and aluminium together is where stainless steel fasteners and hold down bolts are used to secure aluminium roadway or bridge parapet guards. <S> Even with no insulation between the metals, there should be little risk of corrosion. <S> A drill press will make life much better for a project like this. <A> Yes, it looks like they're just bolting one piece of box-section aluminum to another. <S> I would use a washer on both sides. <S> They're using steel screws and (presumably) steel washers. <S> Also note that in the trike design, they're using a couple of pieces of plate at the front to mount the bottom bracket. <S> This will also help prevent the tubes from racking, which will be important for your project. <A> Yes - there should be a washer on each side on <S> the outside - Aluminium is a soft metal and a bolt head/nut will sink into it over time, effectively loosening your bolt. <S> I'd also expect there to be a small crush tube around the bolt, down inside the tube's square cross section. <S> This would be a good idea even if they don't mention it on the plan <S> - will stop the tension of the bolt from making your square cross section into a figure-8 under pressure. <S> There would be 6 crush tubes per joint, two per bolt, in David's excellent image. <S> Also will help to reduce fatigue from vibration.
|
You could join your corners using prefab corner plates; the bigger the plates and the more widely set the screw holes, the better they'll be at resisting racking. To avoid galvanic corrosion, I'd use plastic washers to isolate the aluminum from the steel.
|
Why does this hollowtech crankset have play? Background Shimano deore crankset (not XT) The crankset has done about 10000km (6200miles). It is from a touring bike. Most of those 10000km was done with thebicycle loaded (bags on both front and back racks). Problem The crankset in the picture has play in the directions shown by the arrows. However in this position (180deg opposite) the crankset does not have play. I do not notice the play while riding. I notice the play when tugging at the cranks with both hands. When I take off the crankset, clean everything, then grease and re-install the crankset, the play is gone but comes back after about 100km (62miles). The play does not seem to get worse. On half of the inside of the crank (non chain wheel), there are teeth marks. The teeth marks are smooth as far as I can tell. Here the marks. Here on the other half no marks. On the axle / spindle there are similar marks on the one side but not the other side. Here with the marks. Again the teeth marks are smooth. Here the half without the marks. Questions Is the play indeed due to a worn out crank? (I have not got the tool to remove the bottom bracket, so I cannot test to see if it is the BB)? Are the markings, or rather this type of wear normal? The original crankset was a deore XT which never had play and did about 20000km (12400miles). When buying a new crankset, should I buy the more expensive or the less expensive? I was told expensive means light materials but quicker wear of the chain wheel, and cheap means heavy materials (metal) but the chain wheel lasts longer? <Q> The marks on the splines look about normal. <S> It's hard to tell absolutely from the pics. <S> You're looking for any sign of deformation or rounding, which occurs if the pinch bolts are loose while riding. <S> Always make sure the pinch bolts are nice and tight, 14Nm or about as much as you would ever put through a long-handled 5mm L-wrench. <S> You need to be able to torque-check your BB cups to go further. <S> If one is loose that can cause all the issues you're experiencing. <S> Replacing the BB entirely at this mileage is within reason too, although if it still works and feels great then by all means keep with it. <S> For example, the black plastic "top hat" of an HT2 BB can get cracked or come apart and preload will be erratic like you're experiencing even if the bearing feel is good. <A> In Shimano cranks the plastic bolt is hand tightened prior to tightening the pinch bolts to 'preload' the bearings and take up play. <S> When the plastic bolt is tightened the crank arms press on the inner bearing races only which is what takes up the play. <S> I'd say try installing the left hand crank arm and adjusting the play take up properly with the plastic bolt. <S> As usual Park Tool has a great video that shows how to do this. <A> Looks like it was ridden while the bolts were not tight enough. <S> Possibly only hand tight. <S> I've seen similar wear several times. <S> Only takes a few miles of riding to incur the initial damage and then the left arm will not seat correctly again. <S> Your bb is probably ok along with the crank spindle. <S> I would look into replacing only the left side arm. <S> Mark
|
Also make sure you are doing the crank pinch bolts up to the correct torque so the crank arm is not working loose on the axle. Note they can have issues with looseness that's not accompanied by poor bearing feel. If you remove the left crank arm and take away the preload you will feel a some play in the bearings.
|
Converting a KHS FLITE 223 into a freewheel fixie? I have this KHS Road bike that I got back in high school and was wondering if I'm able to convert it into a freewheel fixie (I think that's the right term) The bike does have vertical dropouts. Would it be cheaper to convert it or just buy a new bike altogether? Here is a link with all the specs I haven't changed anything since I got it! https://khsbicycles.com/bikes/flite-223-16/ <Q> Based on the photo from your link, this bike will be difficult to convert because of the dropout having no adjustment at all. <S> Effectively this means you will need some other way of tensioning the chain. <S> Eccentric bottom bracket <S> (expensive) Chain tensioner <S> (looks like a derailleur) <S> This also means you cannot use fixed gear, because the chain will go slack on the top run if you forget and try to coast. <S> Also means skid-braking is impossible. <S> Half-link chain (expensive, heavier, somewhat uglier) <S> Also in your shopping list will be a single-speed conversion kit, which is a single cog and a bunch of spacers to replace your rear cassette. <S> Its probably advisable to fit a new chain at the time of conversion, to help keep track of mileage on components. <S> You might choose to replace your chainrings too, but that's more for aesthetics. <S> Its reasonable to pick a chainring, run the bike on only that ring by locking off the front derailleur. <S> You might choose to remove the inner grannie chainring for weight/appearances. <S> Removing the middle or large chainring will probably require a different set of chainring bolts, or some washers added to make up the missing thickness. <S> Brakes - For other future readers, just leave them on. <S> I am of the opinion that two brakes are mandatory on any road bike. <S> And that skid braking is not an effective emergency brake. <S> So don't strip off your rim brakes in the pursuit of appearance. <S> This doesn't apply to OP because the cassette conversion kit does not remove the freehub and the bike will just coast, if you try to skid stop on a single speed. <S> UPSHOT compare the sum of cost of parts, with the loss of versatility of your quite-nice road bike. <S> Compare that with the cost of a second bike, and make a decision yourself as to which is more suitable. <S> I'd recommend N+1 if you can afford it, and would only consider conversion for a bike that isn't being used. <A> In addition to Criggie's answer... <S> The usual configuration would be retaining the middle ring and removing the inner small and outer large rings, however as you will be using a single speed conversion kit you can position the single rear sprocket where you like on the freehub. <S> This means you could use the outer chainring and adjust the chanline appropriately, <A> Your gnna need a bmx chain because the the spaces on the geared chain are tooo small to fit on the freewheel/fixie cog and a few links frm a half link chain to reduce the slack on the chain since u cant adjust the distance frm the crank and the back tire. <S> Its actually really simple to do.
|
Also consider removing the two chainrings you are not using (you may need shorter chainring bolts as one set go through the middle and outer rings.)
|
What is this thing called that holds the gear shift cable (not the wire)? There is a small metal part that keeps the gear shift cable in place, so the inside cable can move without the cable hose moving as well. I think I damaged it slightly when making repairs so I need a new one, but I have no idea how that part is called or if it is something specific to my bike. I have a Shimano Nexus 8 internal shifter. I attached a photo of the part standalone and installed. <Q> In Shimano-ese, it is part of the "Outer Receiving Unit." <S> You can pull up the exploded view diagram for you specific hub model on techdocs.shimano.com to corroborate what you need. <S> Then you can google around for "shimano outer receiving unit" and get the right part number for your hub on the off chance that it's different for the different Shimano internal hubs. <A> Its definitely a stop for the outer cable, allowing the inner cable to proceed. <S> This kit is surprisingly not-too-expensive, considering the green/blue anti-rotation washers cost 1/4 of the whole kit cost each. <S> Note that the -8 suffix means for an 8 speed, a -11 suffix is the eleven speed. <S> I'm not sure if there is a different part for the Nexus vs the Alfine <S> 8 - a good chance its the same part for both. <A> This is called a "cable stop." <S> On most bikes with derailleurs, it is integral to the frame (welded, brazed, bonded, or riveted on). <S> Check with your local bike shop.
|
On your bike, it is part of the hub assembly. On a shimano Alfine or Nexus IGH it is on the end of the Cassette Joint, part "CJ-S7000-8" which is part of the "Alfine Small Parts Set" part nmber "SM-7000-8" There are clamp-on cable stops that would fit to your chainstay and might work here, but I think the better solution is to get an exact replacement part, which should be possible.
|
What are these rubber rings on my brake caliper bolts for? I have purchased a disc brake adapter which came with a set of mounting bolts for mouting the adapter and the caliper together. The bolts have a rubber ring on them, but I'm not sure what it's for. Should it be mounted together with the caliper and adapter, or is it just for holding the washers and shims in place as part of the packaging? <Q> The bolts have a rubber ring on them, but I'm not sure what it's for. <S> Should it be mounted together with the caliper and adapter, or is it just for holding the washers and shims in place as part of the packaging? <S> The rubber rings are just for holding the washers and shims in the right place and should not be installed on the bicycle. <S> There are many disk brake adapters. <S> Without a description of what you have I could not find instructions specific to your situation. <S> The pictured adapter is similar to yours ( it's a SM-MA-F180P/P2 ) and shows no rubber rings. <S> Added information after the part make and model was identified: The manual for the Tektro A12 lacks an exploded diagram or words describing the washer arrangement. <S> Frequently asked questions on their site <S> does not cover this. <S> Their videos have a how to install a caliper part <S> but they don't show the washer arrangement. <S> You can try their contact page . <S> Often the correct way to install something becomes clear once the part is installed. <S> Since Shimano has a similar bolt/washer setup try it without the rubber ring first. <A> From Tektro's website one can download the installation instructions of their disc brake adaptors, one of which is termed the "A-12." <S> You must download the instructions from a drop-down menu (titled with the heading "downloads.") <S> There is no mention of this o- ring in the caliper to adapter installation instructions. <S> However, diagram 3c, shows an o- ring that is removed from a 3mm bolt that is used to fix the pads in the caliper on the Aquilla, Lyra, and Aries mechanical disc brake systems. <S> If you are using one of these systems, could this be the pad fixing bolt <S> you're looking at? <S> If you determine it's not and the bolts are in fact the caliper to adapter fixing bolts, I would not install the bolts with the o rings in place as there is no mention of it in the directions. <S> One thing to think about is that the bolts securing the caliper to adapter are ones you would loosen prior to attempting to realign the caliper/pads to the rotor. <S> As such, one would not want to use a loctite-type product that is designed for permanent fixing of the fastener (i.e. red). <S> Use blue or purple instead. <S> I'd suggest contacting Tektro or an LBS that sells and services <S> Tektro brakes to determine exactly the nature of these o-rings. <S> Perhaps they're part of the adjustability of the caliper to the rotor? <S> It would seem unusual to me, especially positioned at the very inside where they'd be highly susceptible to being ground apart on initial install. <A> believe it's due to a 'galvanic reaction' between the aluminum and steel; ). <S> I've never had issues with brake caliper bolts becoming stuck <S> but then again I store my bike inside.. <S> thread-lockers should also prevent the thread from seizing.. <S> The rubber rings could perhaps serve the purpose of preventing the bolts from loosening due to vibrations. <S> Usually brake caliper (and brake caliper adapter) <S> bolts are held in place with lock-tite or a similar thread locker. <S> Although I have never seen rubber rings used for this purpose I can imagine this might be a possibility. <S> All brake caliper bolts I've removed/ <S> installed on bike's <S> I've worked on <S> so far did not have such a washer installed <S> so you should also be fine installing the bolts without a washer (but <S> a thread-locker is advisable in this case to prevent loosening from vibrations). <S> In the graph below some test results can be seen comparing loosening of nuts when using thread-locker compared to a few types of washers. <S> Unfortunately a rubber ring is not among the rings tested however the graph should still give an indication of the effectiveness.. <S> Source: <S> https://www.engineerlive.com/content/preventing-nut-and-bolt-self-loosening <S> Judging from the image thread-locker would be your best option to prevent loosening, rubber o-ring might come in second and thus be a good (albeit less effective) alternative <S> , unfortunately I'm not quite sure were in the graph <S> the rubber o-ring would be if tested. <S> I would expect it to be an average between the yellow (saw-toothed flange bolt) and green (nut with poly-amide ring) line. <A> Goes between the spacer and the caliper mount on the fork to hold the washers together .. <S> I think. <S> Saw that on a new bike I was working on.
|
The rubber ring could theoretically serve the purpose of keeping water out of the threads, thus preventing rust/oxidation (which when screwing the bolt into an aluminum fork can cause them to become very stuck in some cases)(I
|
I am always having a broken spoke once in every 500Km I have a Giant Escape hybrid bike, which I bought as a secondhand bicycle. After I had bought it, once in every 500km, according to Strava records, I am always having a broken spoke in rear wheel. Yesterday, I got my sixth broken spoke and I have noticed the old spokes broken always, not the ones I had replaced. I asked from a few repair persons but they just replaced the spoke without reasoning. Is there anything I can do to stop this? Because I think this is strange. As you can see in this picture most of the broken spokes are on drive side. As I remember I heard sound of breaking when I tried to speed up quickly. Most of the time the spokes break at the J Bend, not the nipple/rim. They all broke in the rear wheel, none in the front wheel. Most are on the drive side, and few are on the non-drive side. I am more or less 85kg (187 pounds) who commutes 8km/5miles up and down (16km/10 miles daily) with, most probably, 2kg (4.4 pound/ 4lb7oz) bag. While riding I have to go on concrete roads, uneven terrain, for about 2km/2200 yards. Moreover, I used to ride more than 50km/31 miles on weekends. <Q> Check if all spokes are properly tightened. <S> if some spokes are too loose that can put extra stress on the rest of the spokes which can cause premature failure. <S> If so (some of the spokes are not properly tensioned) you should true the wheel (or have it done if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself). <S> Is the back wheel <S> the original back wheel that came with the bike or has it been replaced with an aftermarket rear wheel? <S> If so it might be of lesser quality (in which case the spokes will most likely also be of lesser quality). <S> How old is the bicycle/how old are the wheels? <S> Metal gets 'tired' after a certain number of load cycles ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material) ).(If <S> (the latter is a more realistic option)). <S> If the wheel is indeed quite old, the spokes are all properly tensioned and there is no other reason to suspect spoke failure metal fatigue might be the issue, if so (as afore mentioned) <S> either replace all (old still remaining) spokes or replace the wheel (which is more conveneint/also cheaper in most cases). <S> Spokes are quite cheap but rebuilding the wheel will take a considerable amount of time. <S> Where are the spokes failing (at what point on the spoke do they break, near the nipple, near the j-bent?) <S> Can you add an image of the surface of the spoke at the break point? <S> The type of surface at the failure point can give an indication of the failure mode (if it failed due to fatigue or overloading (putting too much stress on the spoke). <S> I quote: <S> Fatigue usually begins from a stress concentration at the surface. <S> The fatigue cracks grow slowly and usually leaves a striated pattern that looks like a smooth sea shell. <S> Then, when the crack has gone far enough, the object will break suddenly due to the stress in the small remaining area exceeding the ultimate strength. <S> This sudden fracture will usually look different - rough or torn looking. <S> Source: http://www.learneasy.info/MDME/MEMmods/MEM30007A/properties/Properties.html <S> Source: <S> https://www.fastenal.com/en/3289/fastener-fatigue <S> Source: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/tensiles <A> Unless a spoke is damaged by external forces (e.g. chain falling off the largest cog) they usually break because of insufficient or uneven spoke tension. <S> A spoke should always be under tension. <S> When it’s repeatedly unloaded it can rub a teeny tiny bit against the spoke holes in the hub and the accumulated wear usually causes it to break at the bend after some time. <S> All the pictures of the Giant Escape I can find show entry-level wheels with 32 spokes and normal, double-walled aluminium rims. <S> They should be sufficiently strong for light off-road use, light luggage and a not-too heavy rider (let’s say less than 100kg). <S> I think your bicycle mechanics are reluctant to replace all spokes because it’s much easier and cheaper to replace a single spoke only. <S> The labour costs of rebuilding a whole wheel are often greater than getting a new, entry-level wheel. <S> You have a few options: <S> Check the spoke tension of the wheel (best done with a spoke tensiometer) and check for visible damage. <S> Replace any damaged spokes and correct the tension. <S> This is the cheapest option, but if spokes are already worn you could still suffer a break at any point in time. <S> Have the whole wheel rebuilt with new spokes and spoke nipples. <S> Probably almost as expensive as a new wheel. <S> If you do it yourself it’s best done with specialised equipment and quite fiddly and time consuming. <S> Get a new wheel. <S> This is probably your only option if you are a heavier (or more “abusive”) rider. <S> Even on new wheels it makes sense to check the spoke tension (and correct it if necessary) after a few hundred kilometres. <A> I have a Giant road bicycle, a 1999 model. <S> At about the same interval that you describe, I would break a spoke on the drive side of the rear wheel. <S> That side is where the spokes almost always break, because the stress on that side is much higher. <S> After replacing several spokes, I asked the owner of my LBS why they were breaking. <S> "Cheap spokes from Taiwan," he replied. <S> He said that spokes from Taiwanese manufacturers from that era were prone to breaking. <S> I weigh about 90 kg, which makes the problem worse of course. <S> The owner of the LBS predicted that once I had replaced all the spokes on the drive side of the rear wheel (with spokes that he sold me), then I would have much less failures. <S> And so it has turned out to be: I broke a few more after I talked to him, but soon afterwards the breaking stopped. <S> I haven't broken a spoke in over two years now. <A> First, start going to a different bike shop. <S> The one that is putting in one new spoke at a time on that wheel each time you break one isn’t doing you any favors. <S> Consider having your wheel rebuilt (i.e. all new spokes) by someone who knows what they’re doing or buying a replacement wheel. <S> If you think you’re a little heavy relative to the strength of the wheel (for example, if you have a 20-spoke wheel and you’re 260lbs) just buy a new stronger wheel. <S> A competent bike shop mechanic can guide you here. <A> If the failures happen to be at the bend on the non drive side it's almost certainly metal fatigue arising from insufficient tension. <S> If the fatigue damage to the unbroken spokes hasn't gone too far <S> , say 1 nipple turn each. <S> It may already be too late :(
|
the spokes break when trying to tighten them to a normal level the problem is most likely metal fatigue and you should either replace all spokes or replace the wheel it MAY be useful to increase tension in all spokes
|
What is a "gram" of drag? Bike components or upgrades are sometimes quoted as saving some number of "grams" of drag. How can a gram , a unit of mass , be used to quantify drag , which is a force ? And for extra credit, why is this a useful way to quantify drag? <Q> However, although there are small differences in the gravitational constant across the surface of the Earth, a reasonable rule of thumb is to assume it to be constant. <S> Accordingly, drag force in Newtons is proportional to kilograms by a constant term very close to 9.8 m/sec^2, so 1 N of drag force is approximately equivalent to "100 grams of drag." <S> That said, I try not to use "grams of drag" and instead use Newtons of force. <S> But, as you've undoubtedly seen, many others (including bike manufacturers and wind tunnel operators) do use "grams" <S> so in order to promote effective communication, I'll switch to using a term <S> I know they'll understand. <A> How can a gram, a unit of mass, be used to quantify drag, which is a force? <S> A kilogram-force is equal to the magnitude of the force exerted on 1 kg of mass in a gravitational field of 9.80665 m/s² ( standard earth gravity ), it is by definition equal to exactly 9.80665 N. <S> This unit is only useful to communicate with people unfamiliar with the Newton unit. <S> The kilogram-force (and its cousin the Pound-force (lbf) ) is easier to grasp for the interested layman. <S> It is however considered an unacceptable unit in the NIST recommendations and is often replaced by the decanewton (dN) in technical documentations, 1 dN being equal to 1.01971621 kgf. <S> A gram-force is equal by definition to 9.80665 mN (but often rounded to 10 mN for marketing purpose), so when one say "1 gram of drag" , it actually means "1 gram-force of drag" which usually mean "10 mN of drag" . <S> Please also note that the drag force is proportional to the square of the speed so any mention of drag force should specify at which speed <S> otherwise it's just marketing claptrap. <A> How can a gram , a unit of mass, be used to quantify drag, which is a force? <S> Only by using a gram as a shorthand, or malapropism depending on your perspective, for a gram-force , which is the force exerted on a gram mass by (Earth's) gravity. <S> why is this a useful way to quantify drag? <S> In the context of cycling this is simple: it allows the main energy costs that cyclists often seek to reduce to be handled with the same units. <S> The main value of reducing mass is that it reduces the amount of additional power from the rider required to climb uphill (it also reduces the work needed to accelerate, but most riders in most scenarios end up putting more effort into climbs). <S> This additional power is used to work against the gravitational force pulling the rider and bike down (and consequently back downhill). <S> Reducing mass thus reduces weight . <S> It is really these two forces – drag and weight – that cyclist are usually most interested in reducing. <S> We could choose to measure them both in a unit of force (Newtons, say) and this would speak more directly to the value of reducing them, but the reality is that it's easier to pop a derailleur on a set of kitchen scales and get a readout in units of grams of mass (though even the scales are really measuring a weight force) than it is to fire up a wind tunnel and get a balance readout in Newtons of drag. <S> The value of a Newton of weight compared to a Newton of drag isn't a 1:1 correspondence <S> but because the physics that makes the forces important in cycling overlaps a lot, dealing with both in the same units does help with developing an intuitive sense of one when you've already learned a bit about the other. <S> A gram is probably as good a compromise choice for this as any other. <A> It doesn't make any sense whatsoever to try to substitute a constant amount of weight for a force that is a function of speed. <S> Obviously the calculation is done by choosing a value for the speed, evaluating the drag force and dividing it by the gravitational acceleration g. <S> This doesn't provide any insight into the actual benefit of a reduction of drag. <S> To understand how wrong it is, consider that people's average speeds easily vary by a factor of 2, so the actual drag varies by a factor of 4. <S> If you compare climb speeds with flats, speed might even vary by a factor of 4-5 for a drag variation by a factor of 16-25. <S> So your "easily understandable" value is wrong by a whole order of magnitude if you don't know how exactly to use it. <S> Another way to be off by orders of magnitude is because for real weights you lift them up by the vertical climb amount which is rarely more than single digit kilometers, while for pretend weights you "lift" them forward by distances that can easily reach triple digit kilometers.
|
As well as reducing drag , cyclists are also often concerned with reducing mass . You're exactly right, drag should be measured in units of force, like Newtons. It's a misnomer related to the Kilogram-force (kgf) and its submultiple unit the gram-force (gf) , 1 kgf being equal to 1000 gf. The only purpose is to be able to brag about it or sell it to people who don't understand the concept.
|
What exactly do seats with a cut out in the middle achieve? I've read that seats with a cut out are a good way of relieving stress on your sensitive areas. So we have seats like this: My question is: from what I've read, the problem with cycling with bad seats is that it puts pressure on your perineum . This is the part that carries the nerves to the penis and testes -- but the cut out, which is in the middle will in no way reduce pressure on the perineum, which start off perpendicularly from a line joining the sit bones. So if you sit on the widest part of the seat, the perineum won't lie on the cut-out. As in: Our intention is to protect the perineum; so I'd wager that a cut out in the middle doesn't solve that problem at all. [I understand that this particular example of a saddle does seem to have some sort of a depression where the perineum would lie -but it's still not perfect, and my question also concerns the use of the cut out in the middle.] <Q> The depressed channel running down the middle of the saddle is what is taking pressure off the perineum, not the actual hole in the middle. <S> Some saddles merely have the channel with no actual hole. <A> All you need to prevent pressure on the perineum is adequate width for the sit bones to bear your weight. <S> You can sit on a perfectly flat board without putting damaging pressure on your perineum, no 'cutout' is necessary. <S> You just need a saddle that is actually wide enough for your personal hip dimensions and not have slapped a razor thin track racing saddle on your ride-around-town bike for fashion reasons. <S> (In the case of 'gel' or foam saddles a gap there probably also gives the gel somewhere to go when you sit on it without having to push up on you.) <S> Once that goal is met assorted anatomical saddle designs and cutouts then make it comfortable to actually sit that way. <S> Comfort is important so you don't shift forward to escape immediate causes of discomfort and ending up not placing weight properly long term. <A> Below is my saddle, using your marking colors. <S> Done properly, a cutout does offer relief in the area of the perineum. <S> However, due to anatomical differences (and saddle differences) not everyone needs one. <S> If the area of the saddle supporting the sit bones were high enough (relative to the rest of the saddle surface) <S> the cutout wouldn't do much. <S> In many cases the cutout just makes the channel more visible. <S> Keep in mind that like people's sit bones, saddles vary in width. <S> This means that for any one saddle, there will be variation in where people's sit bones come to rest, thus also variance where their other anatomy ends up (relative to the saddle parts). <S> There is also the fact that the saddle needs to be installed properly and positioned properly for any of it's parts to line up and do the work they were intended for.
|
There needs to be some support between the areas of the sit bone contact, or the saddle will simply flex (depending on material, etc) making the cut out or channel a pinch point. Saddle design varies and there is a lot more to a good saddle than just a cutout (or any other feature, really). The channel may also do the work (when designed properly).
|
Seeking a very deep/long reach dual pivot brake caliper. 90 mm drop required I can get a single pivot caliper deep enough, but the performance is inadequate. Does anyone know of a dual pivot caliper that's at least 90mm deep? Or another solution? It's for the front of a cargo bike where a disc brake or roller brake is not possible.I've done a lot of Google searches without result.Thanks. <Q> Even a dual-pivot brake probably isn't going to solve the problem you found with a single-pivot brake: after a certain point, those long brake arms are flexing and absorbing the energy you're trying to put into the pads. <S> This is why you generally don't see caliper brakes on fat-tire bikes. <S> I did a quick check, and even Tektro's long-reach calipers aren't long enough for your application. <S> They're widely available and a known quantity. <A> Thanks for all the input and advice. <S> Not easy to find a Google image of it, but here's a link <S> https://www.bicyclepartswholesale.com.au/product/4459-brake-alhonga-front-brake-arm-alloy-for-folding-bikes-drop-110 <S> mm . <S> That's what I'm going with <S> , I'll let the forum know how it works. <S> Another possible is a 91mm deep Altenburger/Point/Alhonga Synchron which is an early design dual pivot. <S> Reputation for being very flexible , possibly little better than many single pivots. <S> I could buy a new fork with disc mounts <S> but it's very expensive. <S> I can't readily get any fork mods done around here, frame builders are rather thin on the ground here in Western Australia :( <A> Henry - I ended up using a long reach brake caliper and had to create a lower mount point for it. <S> For me, this was caused by changing from 27" (630mm) wheels down to 700c (622mm) wheel. <S> So I made a dropper plate to provide a lower mounting point. <S> In theory I should have used two plates, one in front and one behind the brake bridge. <S> Steel would have been a better material than aluminium as pictured, but it was thick and its what I had. <S> Also, its a rear wheel <S> so there are far lower peaks in braking effort on this end of the bike. <S> The pictured calipers are Tektro R559, and even with my mount plate, they only just reached the rims. <S> Personally, for a front wheel, I'd recommend you find a better fork with disk mounts, and a wheel with a brake rotor.
|
Cantilever brakes would be the more orthodox solution to this problem. I've found an Alhonga U brake sold as suitable for folding bikes, it is a self contained centre pull almost like a Delta brake, in alloy with 110 mm max drop.
|
Pedal doesn't rotate freely; occasionally comes with grinding / clicking Apologies if that has been asked before; the search function shows up related but ultimately different issues. Here's what's going on: As I pedal along, occasionally the left pedal will be reluctant to turn nicely so as to stay horizontal and nicely level with my foot. At the very least it will make a protesting clicking sound. Occasionally it will just completely refuse to rotate, which awkwardly bounces my foot. So I got off the bike to see what happens. If I try to manually turn just the pedal on the crank arm, it's not a constant resistance. Rather, it'll turn a bit, then offer a big resistance that I can violently push past, producing another crunchy click grind sound. Would anybody know what's going on here? Time to replace the pedal? Or just some tender love and care? EDIT: Details of bike. Commuter bike. Officially 10 years old but pretty much everything got overhauled in the last 5 years, with a complete cassette / bottom bracket replacement last year.27 speed (3x9), not sure what derailleur style would be. The one that most normal commuter bikes have, I guess? Hub isn't geared. <Q> The pedal bearings are failing in some way. <S> This may range from a ball or race physically broken to a simple lack of grease. <S> Depending on what kind of pedals you have you may be able to service or replace the bearings. <S> The video linked at the end of this answer shows what's required to do so. <S> It's possible but somewhat of a pain. <S> You have to have the correct tools, if you have to replace balls you have to figure out what size they are etc etc. <S> Pretty much any bike shop should be able to sell you a pair and install them. <A> You can quite easily and cheaply buy replacement balls but in general the bearing races are harder to get replacement parts for (however if they are quite expensive pedals you might be able to find them). <S> Replacing a ball is quite doable. <S> Unscrew the nut at the end of the pedal axle. <S> Pull the pedal off (make sure not to lose any balls), clean everything and reassemble. <S> Also check bearing race condition whilst you have the pedal opened up. <A> Try to just remove the pedals, clean them really well, then reinstall the pedals. <S> If you have the tools and grease on hand this is very fast and easy to do. <S> It might not solve your problem but <S> it might and costs basically nothing in time and money to try. <S> If you don’t have the tools or grease, you can buy them at any bike shop for under $20; or maybe your friendly local bike shop will do this for you. <S> If you really like the pedals for some reason then sure, get them repaired or try to repair them yourself as others have already suggested. <S> Otherwise, just throw them away and get a new pair of pedals. <S> Pedals aren’t expensive unless you want them to be, and they’ll last for years, so this is the easiest solution.
|
If you have simple flat pedals the easiest option is to simple replace them as this type of pedal is inexpensive and easy to get hold of. Perhaps a broken ball in your ball bearing.
|
How can I prevent theft of mirrors? I want to know to permanently fix back view mirrors. Last night, somebody stole them.Please tell me any solution. <Q> Make your bike less accessible. <S> Don't park it near where people walk past. <S> Instead, park it down the row a little. <S> Avoid parking it anywhere that will be in anyone's way—inconvenienced people may take it out on your bike. <S> That means not leaving it outside overnight; ideally bring it into a lockable garage or shed, or even into your home. <S> Make the accessory securely attached. <S> That means no velcro, no quick releases, and no breakaway plastic. <S> A downside: <S> breakaway parts are a safety feature to reduce the chance of stabbing into you or someone else. <S> Also, look at the fasteners. <S> If it's a thumbscrew like a GoPro, anyone can undo that without tools. <S> So look for replacement metal bolts that can be torqued down tighter. <S> Ideally the new metal bolts would be into metal fasteners—plastic ones may strip out easier. <S> Or consider putting a blocker in, like a ball bearing into a hex socket. <S> Also prevent the bolt being removed by using a thread locker like locktite. <S> Generic superglue/cyanoacrylate glue also works fairly well. <S> Avoid the threadlockers that need heat to release <S> , else you can't get your own parts off without a hot torch which will melt other things. <S> An additional thought—depending on how your bike bars are set up, it may be reasonable to wrap your bartape over the accessory fitments. <S> This will obscure the fastener and make it take longer to interfere with your bike. <S> Naturally these suggestions won't make your bike theft-proof, just make it less-attractive and take longer to fiddle with. <A> There's no permanent fix, nor is there anything truly theftproof. <S> In my experience, if a thief tries to steal something which is not easy to steal, they will just break it in fustration. <S> Which will make your life harder when it comes to removing the broken bracket. <S> I would just buy the cheapest one I could find, and maybe paint the back of it an ugly colour to deter someone wanting it. <S> Replace the screw of bolt for a security torx and put some insulation tape around it to make it less obvious to the thief. <S> Same goes for lights and bells. <S> Also see this thread that discusses your problem more widely. <A> You can engrave something on your mirrors to avoid being sold after. <S> Is a practice of car owners. <A> tldr; If you have something nice and want to keep it that way, take them with you. <S> If you park your bike away from main pedestrian thoroughfares then any thief that notices your bike has less witnesses and presumably more time to enact their larceny. <S> If you use a permanent thread locker fluid then the thief will only become frustrated and likely create more damage trying to remove the mirrors. <S> They don't care about your property. <S> I've seen car windows that were smashed for the loose change in a console. <S> Specialty locking nuts are ineffective here since the mirror's L-shape is such that it acts as a wrench when the mirrored end is used as a leverage point to unscrew the attached (threaded) end. <S> Vandalism is often prompted by thoughts of 'he/ <S> she has something I don't have'. <S> Engraving or otherwise personally identifying your mirrors will only increase the likelihood of attracting a miscreant's attentions and adds the prospect of a unique trophy. <S> Thieves are lazy. <S> The reason that 'The Club' worked so well to deter car theft is that there was another car right next door without one. <S> And finally, Don't piss off anyone with your riding habits and if you inadvertently do, take the time to apologize. <S> Spur of the moment vandalism and/or theft is easily prompted by an 'I'll show that so-and-so who's boss!' <S> attitude that would never have erupted if you just hadn't knocked over that pedestrian or cut off that car. <A> Combination of theft proof screws. <S> These are screws which can only be removed with a special tool. <S> There are so many different kinds that it's impractical for a thief to have all of these. <S> https://www.brycefastener.com/?keyword=tamperproof&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzauLx_ar5wIVWyCtBh1TXQwwEAAYASAAEgK-E_D_BwE <S> And Locktite (or an epoxy). <S> This is an inexpensive adhesive which makes it more difficult to turn the screw. <S> https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-0-20-209741/dp/B000FP8EUS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=loctite+red&qid=1580408067&s=hi&sr=1-1
|
If you can live with a less-than-altruistic solution, park your bike beside someone with better mirrors that are easier to steal. To protect the bolt, you can use some weird security tool fitment that the thief won't be carrying on their person. Park your bike in a secure location if possible. You can retain it with candle wax or glue, annoying to remove legitimately.
|
Purpose of 'bore' on spoke nipples - why are spoke nipples not threaded through their entire length? I noticed that (most) spoke nipples have a thread which does not run through the entire length of the nipple. As can be seen in the image below some of the length of the nipple has no threads (and is called a "bore" apparently). This left me with some questions: What is the purpose of the bore? Wouldn't the nipple be stronger with longer threads? Are there disadvantages to using longer threads (/sacrificing some of the length of the bore to add more thread length)? Is the amount of thread the same on longer/shorter nipples and is the difference between these different lengths of nipples just in the length of the bore? If so (if thread length is the same)...what is the advantage of using longer nipples? Are there spoke nipples where the thread does have a longer length (thread across the entire length of the nipple)? Thank you for any input, it's greatly appreciated :) <Q> Adding threads to any sort of bolt under tension doesn't actually make it much stronger, beyond the first ≈5 threads. <S> Adding more basically just adds dead mass; either way the whole thing will generally fail somewhere close to the first thread. <S> So, filling the bore with threads wouldn't have any benefit. <S> What it would do however is move the expected point of failure out of the relative safety of the unthreaded bore, which particularly protects the spoke from being bent at that point, which would further diminish its strength. <S> The bore makes it so that if there's some bending, it will be on the unthreaded part of the spoke, which is stronger to begin with, so not as worrisome. <A> The bore guides the thread of the spoke to the threading of the nipple allowing easier spoking with less risk of cross-threading. <S> The bore also allows the spoke to be threaded deeper w/o adding more threading to the spoke. <S> Imagine you want to thread the spoke all the way into the nipple. <S> If there wasn't a bore, but the inside thread of the nipple would reach all the way up to the spoke side then the spoke would have to have threading there, too. <S> This would also be unnecessary, as I cannot imagine that you would need more than 10 threads for the spoke to securely hold the nipple. <S> Another benefit is optical, hiding the spoke's threading in most cases. <A> When inserting a spoke in the nipple, the spoke typically has to be bent quite a bit before making it into the nipple. <S> The bore decouples the acts of bending the spoke to fit the nipple, and turning the nipple to make the threadings connect. <S> That way, the threads of spoke and nipple are aligned before the threads catch even with the spoke still being bent somewhat, basically eliminating the otherwise imminent danger of cross-threading. <S> It also prevents the end of the tensioned spoke from unleashing and ripping through your hand while you try making the first turn of the nipple. <A> The "bore" allows the unthreaded portion of the spoke to enter the nipple body, eliminating the need to thread the spoke more or use a shorter nipple. <S> This is especially useful in some wheel-building factories where, to simplify operations, <S> the same length spoke is used on both sides of a wheel, and any protrusion beyond the nipple end is ground off. <S> Note that the "bore" end of the nipple has its length determined in part by how thick the rim body is. <S> Some rims have a thicker cross-section as measured from spoke side to tube side, and hence they need longer nipples. <S> But they don't need more threads. <A> Threads corrode. <S> Applying a large amount of force with a nipple key can deform the nipple and damage the threads underneath. <S> So not having threads underneath prevents damage to nipple and spoke. <A> What is the purpose of the bore? <S> Perhaps so that the threaded part of the spoke is covered by the nipple? <S> Wouldn't the nipple be stronger with longer threads? <S> Yes. <S> Are there disadvantages to using longer threads /sacrificing some of the length of the bore to add more thread length)? <S> Apparently not, as you don't hear people complaining about spokes ripping out of nipples. <A> A thicker ring around a rod, counterintuitively, doesn't strengthen it, especially if there is a sharp transition from thin to thick. <S> It weakens it, by creating what is called a stress riser - think of clamping a square metal rod in a vise and gripping it with pliers, you will have an easier not harder time breaking it, since the clamped portions can NOT deform to deal with the applied force. <S> Sharply cut threads are likely to just achieve the same... <S> And while this is more of a problem with bending than tensile/compressive loading, if a thinner rod (equivalent to the thinnest cross section in the threaded version) was sufficient, a thinner rod would have been used in the first place.... <A> Longer spoke nipples <S> will (with the same thread length) have a longer bore length. <S> On some (especially deeper) rims the spoke nipple will have to be longer in order for the tool interface (flat sides) to properly extend past the rim itself .
|
another reason for using longer spoke nipples (which providing they have approximately equal thread length, which appears to be quite common) is to allow for the tool interface of the nipple to reach far enough through the rim in order to be able to tighten the nipples. The longer the threaded piece, the harder to loosen corroded threads.
|
Bottom bracket length and chainline I'm considering to replace my bottom bracket. My current one is a cheap 68x115mm squared. As I'm obsessed by bike weight, there is a titanium product I'd really love to install. However, the closest available sizes are 113 and 119mm. My chainring is already close to the frame, and I'm also considering to install an oval (so sometimes larger) chainring, so I cannot install the 113mm. So, if I install the 119mm, this will theoretically make a chainline difference of 2mm. Is this acceptable? My transmission is 1x10. I do most of my riding on the high speeds (small sprockets), which is great for the case here (chainline closer to these sprockets). Still, I need all the 10 speeds to work ;) <Q> I think this is fine, especially if you are using the outer sprockets most of the time. <A> Not answerable in the abstract. <S> You need to measure the chainline that your existing spindle is giving you. <S> Only once you have that information can you make a reasonable guess what is and isn't likely to cause issues. <S> Most 1x bikes come with the chainline out in front to begin with, for clearance reasons as well as to prevent unwanted catching on the small end of the cassette. <S> It's likely that if you did what you're proposing, it would push it too far and cause issues in your big cog. <S> Also, your bike needs the right length spindle way more than it needs a titanium one. <S> If you want both just get a Phil, which come in all sizes, last forever, and have some chainline tuneability. <A> Since I crosschain my bikes (yeah that's how I roll <S> and I even do this on triple cranksets) <S> so I'm often in the two big rings and almost never have I had a chain come off. <S> So I wouldn't expect a chainline issue by moving the chainline 2mm <S> (I'm assuming the 4mm increase is split 2mm longer on each side). <S> BUT this assumption may not be correct. <S> Some cranksets were designed with a larger BB axle offset for the chainrings on the right. <S> In this case you could end up with crankarms which are 4mm closer to the frame on one side than the other <S> and it could mean the chainline will change by 4mm instead of 2mm. <S> I could only check this by measuring the two BB's side by side. <S> If this is a double crankset converted to single, and if the chainring currently is mounted on the outside position, and there is a problem with the chain coming off, you could also consider moving the chainring to the inside position. <S> BTW, make sure to use an anti-sieze compound to keep the crankarm bolts from permanently attaching inside the titanium BB axle. <S> Ti likes to do that.
|
Frame alignment and especially chainstay length are also factors.
|
148-to-141 conversion effect on spoke length? I'm building a set of wheels using: WTB KOM Light i40 rims - 27.5" Hope Pro 4 Hubs - 100mm front / 148mm rear However, I have converted the rear hub to a 141mm using Hope's QR conversion kit. Does this change have an effect on the spoke length calculation? I have used the DT Swiss spoke calculator with the values from WTB and Hope for ERD , and PCD/offset . But I'm unsure if the PCD/offset values are changed by the conversion to 141. <Q> The PCD of the hub flanges cannot be changed. <S> but the flange offsets might be. <S> What might happen is the hub body is shifted left or right relative to the centerline by the axle conversion. <S> The offsets are easy to measure, a millimeter scale ruler gives sufficient accuracy. <S> Try this page: https://leonard.io/edd/howtomeasure . <S> I'd personally check the published measurements anyway. <A> The QR conversion does not affect spoke length. <S> PCD is determined by the hub only, and offset would be changed only if the hub end caps were different size on each side. <A> The conversion kit "shouldn't" change the dish of the rear wheel. <S> The rim should be centered between the locknuts (aka the ends of the axle which contact the frame). <S> If you don't have a dish tool, take the wheel to a LBS and have them check the dish. <S> This should only take a few minutes and most shops will do this for nominal charge. <S> Should the wheel needs to be re-dished, there should be ample margin with the factory spokes to move the rim. <S> When I've had to adjust the dish of rims which were off by a couple mm it simply was a turn or two difference to the spokes on each side (i.e. loosen one side by a turn and tighten the other side a turn). <S> Hope makes excellent stuff so if there is a major change to the dish, I would contact Hope for technical assistance as there likely is another problem (wrong kit, missing part, etc etc).
|
Only if the conversion kit significantly changed the dish of the wheel would you need to change any spoke lengths.
|
How much space do I need between my tire and brakes to change from 700x23 to 700x25 or 700x28 tires? My concern is that the actual one (700x23) is quite close to my brake (about 3 mm). It's safe for me to buy a 700x25 or 700x28? I would like to have a slightly wider tires. <Q> A 28mm looks like it <S> would probably fit acceptably, <S> but I doubt a 32 mm would fit. <S> The best solution here is to take your bike to a Local Bike Shop, and buy your 28mm tyre/tube from there, on the provisio if it doesn't fit on either end you simply swap it for a 25mm. <S> Second option is to buy the tyre you want, and if it doesn't fit then sell it on ebay/local auction website, but you'll probably take a hit on the value. <S> Remember, you need to look at chainstay/seatstay clearances at the back, fork clearances at the front, and brake caliper clearances at both ends of the bike. <S> The other thing that may hold you back on tyre width is rim internal width. <S> The wider tyres prefer to sit on wider rims. <S> A 28mm tyre wants to be on a rim from 15-21mm. <S> More info at <S> What is the maximum or minimum tire width I can fit on my bicycle <S> Though do note these numbers are somewhat fuzzy edges. <S> You may need to change your methods, by only inflating the tyre once the wheel is installed in the bike. <S> Or you may have to look at how to get slack in your brake cable with a quick release or similar. <S> Not a problem, but it can be frustrating to have to deflate a freshly inflated tyre to get the wheel through the brakes. <S> More-so if you just used your last cartridge, or have to do it with a minipump (perhaps again!) <A> How much space do I need between my tire and brakes to change from 700x23 to 700x25 or 700x28 tires? <S> My understanding of the question is that you have 3mm between the top of the tire and the bottom of the brake using a 700x23 tire. <S> In the situation under question when going to a wider tire you need to worry about brake and frame / fork clearance. <S> In a perfect world you would have 1mm clearance on your brake if you installed a 700x25 tire. <S> However, different tires may be slightly wider than 700x25 and some tires are a little out of round. <S> So, it depends. <S> Also, we don't know how much frame clearance you have. <S> The only way to know for sure is to try the tire on your bike. <S> Don't assume that if a tire works on the back it will work on the front - you have to check both. <S> When clearance is tight <S> it's important to test ride on the wider tires. <S> Wheels will flex (some more than others) and the frame may flex so the tire may rub when riding (especially when pedaling hard) even if they don't rub on the bike stand. <S> How much space... <S> If the tires clear - all the way around (to clarify "clear" means your wheels rotate freely given frame/wheel flex and any riding condition, mud, asphalt you encounter) <S> when riding - then all is good. <S> There is no minimum amount of space needed if bicycle flex and environment are accounted for. <S> From experience, I was able to replace a 700x23 tire on the back with a 700x25, but not on the front. <S> The front 700x25 tire cleared the brake but rubbed on the bottom of the fork crown. <S> It might be time to look into getting a bike designed to use wider tires. <S> A test ride at your local bike shop would inform your thinking. <A> Your brake pads should not be touching your tires. <S> If they are touching, you need to reposition the pads immediately so that they contact the rim sidewalls. <S> The only time this should be a concern is when you are installing or removing a wheel (when fixing a flat, for example). <S> Brakes normally have a release that opens up the brake arms to accommodate the tire for this purpose—the release is either a small lever on the brake arms, or a pin on the brake levers. <S> An extra 5 mm should not be a problem when the release is open. <S> If you are already riding around with the release open, use the brake's barrel adjuster to loosen the brakes so that the pads are correctly positioned with the release closed. <S> If you need more adjustment than that, you'll need to loosen the cable fixing bolt on the brake arm and let some slack into the cable that way. <S> Another possible concern is that the larger tires will rub on your frame, although it would need to have extremely tight geometry for 5 mm to make a difference.
|
Relevant thoughts - wider tyres do make it harder to drop the wheel through the brake pads. WRT the photo - I'd be quite confident you can fit a 25mm in there without issue. Depending on your sensitivity it may not be worth changing. A 23mm tyre should be on a rim with a width of 13-17mm. A quick Google will tell you that there is a debate as to how much going from 23 to 25 matters and if the difference can be felt.
|
Tire size conversion from 700 x 23c A tire with the size of 700 x 23c, when changed to inches, what is the diameter and what is the width? <Q> You're asking a question that cannot be answered. <S> Sorry - the plethora of tyre size measuring systems means there is no good answer. <S> Diameter could be 29 inches, it could be 28 inches, it could even be 27 inches. <S> But the bead seat IS 622 millimetres without exception. <S> The width likewise varies - there are fractional inch measurements that do not line up with the decimal inch of the same size - <S> IE 1 1/2 inches is not the same width of tyre as 1.5 inches. <S> But 23mm is 23mm without exception. <S> This is why the ETRTO measurement system is simply superior to all that went before. <S> Not that its based on metric, but ETRTO is consistent and accurate. <S> A "700c" tyre in a width of 23 is a ETRTO measurement of 622-23, which is sometimes written as 23-622. <S> You might glean some more information from <S> How do I know what size tyres can I fit on my rims? <S> and from <S> How do I determine my wheel size Or consider asking about what you're trying to achieve - this sounds like an XY problem. <A> The actual width depends on the rim width, and manufacturers typically don't tell which rim width the announced width is measured with. <S> Diameter is more complicated. <S> 700mm is the outer diameter of "C" type tire when mounted and inflated. <S> This gives rim diameter of 622mm (the same as 622, one of the two 28"s and 29"). <S> It does not make any sense, but you can memorize or look up it. <S> The 700A and 700B sizes have been long forgotten, but 650A and 650B are specified the same way. <A> That said, ETRTO 622-23 tyres are sometimes sold as 28x0.9" ( random web example ). <S> This link is priced in €, which isn't surprising - it's often German manufacturers/sellers that use 28" as a tyre size, even though they don't use inches otherwise. <S> This may help you if you're shopping for tyres and they're only specified in inches, but confirm the ETRTO size .
|
It is correct (as stated in the other answers, which I've voted up) that tyre sizing systems mean the actual stated sizes can't be converted, and in fact the width of a given tyre will vary depending on the rim width. To answer the question as written, 23 is the width of the tire in millimeters when mounted and inflated.
|
What's this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever for? I made this lamp for my son out of his old Miyata he used to ride all over on. It was too good a machine to just sit outside and ruin. We never noticed this "spacer" lever on the front brake lever. When swung out, it adds some slack to the brake adjustment. What's it for? Question is specifically about the silvery lever outlined in Red, not the mounting stud outlined in Green. Additional photos to show other parts of the bike for relevance: <Q> Adding pictures to Weiwen's answer... <S> Here is a picture of a brake lever with the part in question circled in blue. <S> It is a quick release mechanism integrated into the brake lever that allows increasing the space between the brake pad and the rim for easy wheel removal. <S> Flipping the lever to the right or left in effect makes the brake cable longer allowing the brake pads to open wider. <S> Other ways a brake quick release has been implemented... <S> Sometimes the quick release mechanism is located in the brake caliper . <S> Sometimes it is located in the brake cable hanger/stop , in this case the front cable hanger <S> On a side note - is that speaker wire used to power the lamp? <A> That is a brake quick release lever. <S> Sometimes, our tires are slightly too big to fit through the brake pads when we remove a wheel from the bike. <S> That quick release lever releases a bit of cable, thus opening the brakes wide enough to extract the tires without issue. <S> On most modern rim brake bicycles, I believe the fashion has been to put the lever on the brake caliper itself. <S> Campagnolo continues to leave that quick release lever on their shifter/brake levers. <A> I believe that what you're referring to are so called "safety levers" aka "suicide levers" (also called "dual pull levers" ). <S> here's what they look like: <S> The 'extra' levers can be used to brake from the 'top' hand position (when your hands are placed on either side of the stem). <S> They used to be quite common but have gone out of fashion since. <S> What is available at the moment are so called 'inline levers' which could be seen as a modern day equivalent of these levers: <S> https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/in-line-brake-levers <S> Here is some more info on them: <S> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/36b0tw/how_dangerous_are_suicide_levers/ <S> Why don't brakes come with 'Safety Levers' any more?
|
This brake lever has a quick release button
|
How to keep Presta valve insert from detaching after inflation? I have Presta valves on my bike tires and for the rear tire, each time I inflate the valve, upon detachment, the insert screws off with the pump attachment and the tire deflates. I tried about 6 times, no luck. Here are pictures of the detached pump connector with Presta insert detached and the valve stem with no insert: What am I doing wrong? How can I inflate and detach the pump without detaching the insert? I had no issue with the front tire. Is the valve broken or am I doing something wrong? <Q> I've had this happen with some tubes - Continental, maybe? <S> Conti tubes are compatible with valve extenders, so the valve on them does come off like this. <S> You're probably screwing the chuck on too tightly, and then the valve comes off with it. <S> Or maybe some tubes come with the valve not properly torqued. <S> And after it did come off, you probably didn't tighten the valve tight enough into the stem to stop it from happening again. <S> There should be small flats on the side of the valve portion that comes off - you need to use a wrench on that when you rescrew it into the stem. <S> Be sure to hold the stem with a pair of pliers when you do this to prevent the stem from twisting . <S> If you don't you can tear the tube. <S> Worst case, put Loctite on the valve threads if it keeps happening. <A> Please look at the following video: <S> Basically, you removed the wrong bit or it was removed before. <S> There are two parts to the presta valve, they main valve that is attached to the bit that sticks out of the wheel and the valve opener. <S> You need to leave the whole thing attached to the tube but unscrew the valve to just open it, but not remove it from the tube. <S> If you look at the video, you'll see it easier. <A> You have a presta stem where it's possible to add stem extensions to increase stem length. <S> You are removing the Presta's main valve body from the factory stem because the manufacturer leaves these incompletely torqued for whatever reason. <S> You also appear to be using an adapter (the silver piece with gasket in your photo) that attaches to the presta valve, converting it for use with a pump set-up for Schrader valves. <S> When one unthreads this adapter (all the ones I've dealt with screw on, they can't just be pushed on), if you've torqued the adapter greater than the torque of the valve body, the valve body threads to the stem will yield first, the adapter stays on the valve body, and the next thing you hear is the hiss of air. <S> That gasket also contributes to the problem by gripping the valve body. <S> First, there are typically wrench flats on the valve body. <S> Sometimes in the threaded area. <S> Yours are likely to be found at that gap in the threads of the valve body. <S> Reinsert the body <S> any hand tighten it. <S> Often times the max torque you can achieve with your fingers is tight enough to keep the body in place using the adapter. <S> Somebody's idea of loctite isn't a bad idea, but I wouldn't purchase any for this task. <S> I'd also suggest to put the adapter on the opened stem first, then attaching the pump to the adapter to better gauge and control the torque at the stem-adapter interface. <S> IDK <S> it's a minor point and may work better the other way. <S> I typically use an air chuck you push onto the adapter to get air--same as filling a car tire. <S> The key to it all is not getting the adapter tighter than the valve body. <S> Many pumps these days have ends that are themselves adaptable to either Schrader or Presta valves using the same parts of the connecting end configured in different ways. <S> See <S> if that's possible with your pump, set it up for Presta and eliminate the adapter. <A> I also use a pump with a screw-on head and have had this happen. <S> It's annoying. <S> It would be a good idea to get a valve-core tool for reinserting the core and tightening it down. <S> Some multi-tools have valve-core tools in their arsenal. <S> In my experience, pliers don't do a great job. <S> You can use thread-locker (such as Loctite) to secure the core so it doesn't come back out.
|
Part of my airing up process is giving the valve body a firm twist right to check tightness between removing the cap and opening the valve. Needle nose pliers work well in that tight area of the flat in lieu of a small enough wrench.
|
Do I need to refill sealant after puncture? I got my first set of brand new tubeless wheels (Mavic Aksium Elite UST) and next day I had a somewhat large (it looks more than 4 mm) puncture. The sealant did its job, but my teammates described it as a "beer flowing from my tire". Now I'm worried that I might need to add more sealant to the tire, but I don't know how much and I don't want to waste whatever fluid remains inside, since it is totally new. Any recommendations? Also, is it OK to leave the tire with such a puncture as it is now? <Q> You want "some" free liquid. <S> How much depends on the tire size <S> but I usually look for at least 3mm. <S> So if you find there's no free sealant and you're surprised you lost that much, that might be why. <S> How much free sealant you want is largely based on preference in terms of flat resistance versus weight. <S> It's not a super exact science. <S> With the valve core removed you can inject more sealant using a commercial injector or various improvised tools. <A> Depends on your confidence levels - if you're going for a 3 hour tour then its a very long walk home. <S> For a 5 minute roll to the local shops, a walk would merely be annoying. <S> Topping up sealant is normal, and should be done every ~6 months anyway. <S> As long as you have the same stuff, I'd consider it. <S> First try to ascertain how much is left in the tyre, perhaps by shaking, or unseat the tyre from the rim and have a look at the bottom. <S> A puncture "repaired" by sealant should be permanent - but don't try to knock the "tree" off the inside unless you're fitting the emergency tube for other reasons. <S> However I'd always carry a tube and a pump and levers, in case the sealant doesn't work, like a gash in the tyre. <A> I know it's not a permanent solution, but you can actually use bacon strips, then put more sealant inside the tire. <S> It works better this way because the bacon strips absorb the sealant. <S> BTW bacon straps are a mountain bikers thing, but i've seen them work on road bike before too. <S> I hope this helps!!
|
Some amount of sealant from a new installation goes to coating the tire and in many cases filling in the porosity of the casing. Pull the valve core and poke a 2mm Allen wrench down to test the fluid level with the valve at the 6 o'clock position with the tire off the ground.
|
Using two tires on one wheel to prevent punctures? I have 20 x 3.0"tires, which seem to be pretty hard to find--especially with nice puncture-resistance like Schwalbe's "Smart Guard," or something of that nature. Unfortunately, I'm definitely getting more flats. My mechanic told me that I could double up on the tires--put old tires underneath the new ones so that it forms essentially an inner tire liner. He did this in the good old days, apparently. He in fact recommended that over other commercial products (Tire Liners) because apparently Tire Liners cause flats in themselves. I have an e-bike, so I wouldn't mind the extra weight and might give it a try, but was wondering if anyone still does this today and if there's anything I should be wary of when / if I try it out? <Q> I'd just buy tyre liners (example from Zefal) . <S> They're made from tough polyurethane which many sharp things won't get through or at least not quickly. <S> I've used cheap (unbranded eBay) ones on a cheap bike when I didn't want to buy expensive new tyres, and they worked well, with one issue <S> , probably what your mechanic was thinking of that was easily solved by taping over the end. <S> They can be cut down to fit your small wheel, and it looks like the ones I've linked are made wide enough. <S> If you want to try recycling instead of buying, then use the tyre liners as inspiration. <S> Here's Zefal's video on fitting them, so you can see the approximate proportions. <A> This sounds like one of those ridiculous old-time ideas that sound good <S> but noone does in reality, like backpedalling on a descent. <S> Assuming you put the old tyre inside your new tyre, they're doing to be about the same size so the old tyre's bead will poke out. <S> There will be no gain in the old tyre seating on the rim, you need the outer new tyre to seat there <S> otherwise it will move and flap. <S> Your mechanic says tyre liners cause punctures - thats because they have an end that abrades with motion. <S> Your suggested inner tyre would have at least one wrinkle, because a 20" tyre won't fit inside a 20" tyre without some give. <S> Or you could cut a sector out, leaving you with the same ends overlapping problem. <S> Instead of futzing around, buy tyres that have a decent puncture protection belt, like Schwalbe Marathons or any number of other brand/models that advertise an anti- puncture belt. <S> Since manufacturers tend to exaggerate, look at puncture ratings on https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/ <S> They're all tested on the same rig for consistency. <S> Do also explore the option of tubeless+sealant, or tubes with sealant in them. <S> They're not a perfect solution, but better than nothing. <S> an ebike with 75mm tyres is not going to be light, so traversing any broken glass is just asking for punctures. <S> Also learn to avoid bouncing over kerbs/curbs and through potholes. <S> Any area of the roadside that has a "shoal" of gravel will harbour wires too. <S> So avoid riding those areas. <S> The roads are extra glassy on Saturday/Sunday mornings and Mondays too to an extent. <S> On the flip side, if you have spare used tyres, absolutely give it a go and report back here with your results. <S> Try and avoid bias, in that new tyres are more puncture resistant than old ones, and replacing your worn tyres might be all that is causing a change in perceived rate of flats. <S> Remember you can answer and accept your own question, that's allowed. <A> you can add more than 1 tube with no issue,I've done this in the past for unparalleled puncture resistance! <A> I have used "Slime" which is another option. <S> You put it inside the tube and it will seal any punctures including any existing ones. <S> I was getting multiple punctures each week due to a mile long thorn bush that was cut along my route. <S> I probably have lots of thorns in my tyre now <S> but it's still inflated fine. <A> Sealants work best in a tubeless setup. <S> I've had mixed results when used in tubes. <S> Also note that many (all?) <S> sealants have a limited shelf life. <S> I use Orange Seal and they recommend replacing at 1 year ( <S> yes just one year). <S> My experience has been that sealant inside an inner tube does not dry quickly. <S> My bikes that are setup tubeless need regular refreshing (usually 3 to 4 months). <S> I had some 700x40mm (ish) tubes where the Orange Seal was still liquid after 2.5 years, and it didn't seal when I got a thorn. <S> To make it worse, the sealant was still liquid so it made quite a mess. <S> On the positive side I've watched as Slime in a tube sealed more than a dozen holes when a friend rode over a goathead bush. <S> So yes the sealants can work. <S> Aside from sealants I would suggest the tire liners. <S> A sturdy e-bike tire will resist cuts and the liners should help reduce punctures. <S> Note that as tires wear there's less rubber protecting the tube. <S> In cases where the sealant is partially sealing the puncture <S> a CO2 inflation system is awesome as it allows one to quickly inject some air, ride a ways, and then inject some more. <S> It's not an ideal setup <S> but it can get one home. <S> DAMHIK :-) <A> you could consider using strips of Kevlar for puncture protection. <S> It's also used in anti-stab vests (which protect the wearer from knife attacks and such), that being said you will need a few layers to get the desired protection. <S> IIRC you need approx 28 layers to make it bulletproof (Uzi, 9mm etc.) <S> :) <S> You could tape the layers together to keep them from separating, for example using duct tape. <S> You can get quite a lot of the raw material (woven Kevlar sheets) for cheap (from Aliexpress for example), here's an example: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32796301207.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.10ff47eaX3gE6p&algo_pvid=b75e54fb-b62f-41a2-8a23-a1c941ce1a3b&algo_expid=b75e54fb-b62f-41a2-8a23-a1c941ce1a3b-17&btsid=0b0a050115816127744011594e0dc4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603 <S> _ there are many different options/sellers. <S> An alternative: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32628896034.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.60da2e0ejHDAtt <S> As you can see in the description they tested it with an UZI Sub Machine Gun and it passed their test (at 24-28 layers thickness from what the seller has told me).
|
A Slightly different approach,Get an old tube, cut it open, then wrap it around your existing tube.put the whole lot inside your tire and fit as usual. Another popular brand is Mr Tuffy, though I've never used them. I work in a shop and regularly see bikes where the tire is flat and the sealant is clearly years old and does nothing but add weight. Also learn to modify your riding -
|
Ways to lock my feet to the pedals, OR, Cycling shoe options for (really) wide feet I have very wide feet, like ridiculously wide. I found some data for Australian male foot sizes and I'm at the 80th percentile for length but the 99.7th percentile for width. I'm currently wearing shoes a size too long in extra extra wide, and they're still barely wide enough. I've been road cycling for a while now, and I'm starting to take it seriously (looking for a club to join). I would like to be able to lock my feet into the pedals, but I don't know where to start. Old school around-the-toe straps are difficult because my regular shoes are too long, and as you might have guessed, off the shelf cycle shoes (at least the few that I've tried) aren't designed with someone like me in mind. What options are there to lock my feet to the pedals so I can practice optimal pedaling technique? Some kind of shoes+clipless pedals approach is clearly the most common way to deal with this, but I'm willing to look at some more unusual or exotic solutions, whether that relates to the shoes, the pedals, straps, anything. Ideally with some kind of quick release mechanism because I'll be on the road. As far as shoes go, this question is very similar, but it's over 9 years old and the linked pages don't exist any more. Plus, 9 years is plenty of time for more options to become available. <Q> Lake makes several shoes in wide widths. <S> I’m particularly partial to their sandals for my wide feet (but depending on what kind of club you’re aiming to join, they may not be the right look). <A> This assumes you can get some sort of shoe that works for you with toe clips, if we can help you get the toe clips to work. <S> These ideas involve modifying parts to some extent, so you'd need to be rather careful including testing them in safe conditions, and keep an eye on them in case they wear faster than you'd expect. <S> This would be a cheap option if possible. <S> The video from Zefal shows how some simple steel toe clips are fitted. <S> For a spacer, you can use a stack of nuts or (probably M5) <S> spacer tubes are available in various lengths (they're often used on mudguard fittings especially when a pannier rack is fitted as well). <S> The strap won't take a perfect line, because the top would be shifted forwards but the back wouldn't be, but in practice they often don't sit perfectly anyway. <S> You could also omit the strap and use them as half clips, or just buy half clips. <S> Another option might be to modify a clipless adaptor (example) . <S> These are used on track bikes and gym trainers for riders who don't have suitable clipless shoes. <S> You'd need to add extra holes to move the cleat backwards in the clip (probably easier for SPDs than road cleats). <S> It would need to be pretty strong to handle clipping in and out (unless you choose to just unstrap), but the forces it would have to withstand aren't full pedalling forces. <S> An extra plate underneath would be a good idea to give a solid mount for the cleat, which would have to move far enough back that the new holes are well clear of the original ones (roughly in line with the strap). <S> With the example I've linked, you could combine my other idea and space the toe-clip part a little forwards. <S> Either way foot position is important. <S> The ball of your foot should be over the axle at least as an initial fit, and you'd have to build this into any modification. <A> It would be a serious commitment, but you could get custom cycling cleats made. <S> In the plus column, you know they'd fit you perfectly. <S> In the minus column, they'd be very expensive--I did a quick search, and it looks like the going price is about US$1000 for a pair. <S> I have seen off-the-shelf shoes up to European size 50, FWIW. <S> I would avoid anything too hack-ish when it came to my feet because foot discomfort is common enough when riding, even with properly fitting shoes.
|
It may be possible to fit removable toe clips to compatible pedals with a spacer to shift them forwards and a longer screw; you may also need a longer strap for the width.
|
What is "height stroke" on a tire? I am reading a tire review at http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-lugano-2015 and it says the Lugano had a gigantic height stroke . Most tires have this, but the Lugano was awful, you will probably notice it on the bike. This is a sign of low-quality control. and quality control seems to be low as the Lugano used for this test came with a severe height stroke . To keep the price low, they probably just don't bin the bad tires. What is it? This tire is very low-scoring so I think it is bad. <Q> It means height variation, and it is a non-idiomatic translation. <S> Edit: As pointed out in comments, the translation is from "Höhenschlag", where "höhe" means height and "schlag" translates to blow, slap or stroke. <S> Lateral out of round is Seitenschlag. <S> My original guess <S> : There are many German words that translate into "stroke", and one of them is "Hub". <S> It translates to stroke in the same sense as "stroke" in four-stroke engine. <S> Other possible translations are "travel [of piston etc.] <S> " or "(vertical) lift", and it is used in phrase "Hub- <S> und Senkbewegungen <S> " meaning "up and down movements". <S> Even though the company behing Bicycle Rolling Resistance is located in Netherlands, the name Jarno Bierman sounds German (well, Jarno is Finnish name <S> but there are people named after motorcyclist Jarno Saarinen all over Europe), and Dutch language is closely related. <A> Searched and found nothing. <S> It seems that even within the Bicycle Rolling Resistance site that is the only article that uses that term. <S> With only the context of the article to guide - my best guess is that "height stroke" is another way of saying out of round. <S> Poorly made tires may have a high spot even when correctly installed/seated that can be noticed when riding the bike. <S> Emailing the site might give an authoritative answer. <A> Never heard it before sorry. <S> To guess, I'd say it would be the outer rolling edge of the tyre (when installed correctly and inflated) that has " runout ". <S> You know how a tyre sits poorly when some part of the bead isn't clicked into the bead-seat on the rim? <S> Well, imagine that but caused by variances in the construction of the tyre, so that the two opposite beads are not exactly parallel around the tyre. <S> That would lead to a sector of the tyre being either closer or further from the wheel's axle than the rest of the tyre. <S> The comments about "cheap price" and implied generous limits on quality control suggest that these are not expensive nor high-precision tyres. <S> However there are 12 700c tyres on Wiggle that are cheaper than this Schwalbe. <S> Note <S> it gets 1/5 and no other review has scored so badly on that site.
|
It means specifically bicycle tire or rim that is out of round vertically.
|
Wheel Building - Should key spoke be inside or outside flange? I’m working on my first wheel build and reading a lot of articles about spoke patterns. Some articles say the key spoke (drive-side, to the right of the valve) should be on the outside of the flange, but others say inside of the flange. Is there a recommended/better flange side for the key spoke? And then what is the recommended flange side for the spoke on the other side of the valve? In my current build my key spoke is on the outside of the flange. The parallel spoke on the other side of the valve is inside the left flange. Update Here’s my finished wheels showing the lacing pattern. I followed Shimano’s recommended pattern but would love to know if it looks in/correct to anyone. In both pics, the wheels are drive-side up, with the valve at the top-center (in the T of WTB). All spokes on drive-side go to holes on drive-side of rim, same for non-drive side. <Q> For the pulling spokes, the knee should be at the outside of the hub flange (i.e. spoke heads inward). <S> If you look at the wear marks of a used hub (picture below ; pulling direction clockwise) you see that the pulling spokes leave a strong impression on the hub flange. <S> Such marks are absent on the inside. <S> The knee of a spoke is the most vulnerable spot. <S> Also the dish (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Dish ) is larger when the pulling spokes run outside, which increases lateral stability. <S> In building a wheel and making final adjustments in spoke tension, you often have to add or reduce a small amout of tension on each spoke. <S> It is difficult to avoid a torsional wind-up because the nipple doesn't rotate freely. <S> There are many craft practises to reduce and release this wind-up, but often they leave some residual tension. <S> If the pulling spokes are running inside the hub, the wind-up tension is mostly concentrated on the knee of the spoke. <S> If the pulling spoke is outside the hub, the wind-up tension is more distributed between the nipple and the hub. <S> For disc-brake wheels, the spokes on the disc side running forward share most of the braking force. <S> So they also should be mounted with the spoke heads inward. <A> simple question. <S> pulling the spokes, outside. <S> Nowadays bikes more or less come stock like this though lots of people disagree. <A> In the end I discovered and followed Shimano's recommended lacing pattern for the front and rear wheels. <S> If I understand the terminology correctly, this means the front is symmetric, and the rear is asymmetric.
|
With the pulling spokes running tangential on the outside of the hub the load on the knee is shifted to the line of contact of the spoke with the hub.
|
Is there any way to remove a rear cassette WITHOUT a cassette wrench? I've tried to and tried, but just can't do it. Can anyone help me with a way to remove my crappy old 7 speed cassette and install a brand new 11 speed without using a cassette wrench? I'm not rich enough to own one. <Q> Use the correct tool. <S> There really is no other good answer. <S> Bodges <S> that could get the old one off, maybe a hammer and cold chisel - likely to upset the threads on the freehub. <S> a grinder and cutoff disk - guaranteed to damage the freehub, plus throws sparks and metal shavings into the mechanism. <S> I've actually done this to a cheap bike where all I needed to save were the spokes, and not the freewheel or hub. <S> Most enjoyable. <S> a gas axe/torch will definitely cut the lockring off, but you'll also damage the hub and spokes, and possibly the rim too. <S> Practical Alternatives <S> You need a cassette lockring removal tool. <S> As per comments they're a few dollars from China, or about 10x that from your local bike shop immediately. <S> Park FR-5, likely to last decades. <S> The correct tool is a Chain Whip Park SR-1, again expect 30 years service out of this tool. <S> It costs three times as much as the locknut tool. <S> I have managed to bodge this by using a length of worn old chain and a pair of vise-grips. <S> What can I do? <S> They're generally free or donation-if-you-can levels. <S> And they will have these basic tools for you to use, and may even run workshops. <S> For me locally, RAD (or Recycle-a-Dunger) is a good service, and can be found at http://www.radbikes.co.nz/ <S> Another option is any kind of "mens shed" which are global, and tend to be populated by some very handy chaps. <S> Example http://www.kinrossmensshed.org/what-we-do.html <S> A third option is to ask around anyone you know who cycles. <S> Worst that can happen is they say no. <S> Lastly, you might be able to take your (clean) wheel into your Local Bike Shop and ask for help. <S> If you're a customer, a LBS might be able to help by quickly slapping it through, for minimal or even no charge. <A> Criggie's answer helpfully details some good ways to go about borrowing the tools. <S> However... <S> As people have suggested in the comments, if you are changing to an 11-speed cassette, you need to change the shifter(s) and derailleur(s) as well, but even then the cassette might not even fit on your old wheel - it most likely won't fit, meaning you need a new wheel too. <S> Affording all of this but not being able to afford the basic bike tools required, even cheap versions, doesn't sound quite right. <S> If you can afford something in between that and nothing, you would be better served by replacing the cassette (and chain) with new versions of the existing items. <S> A well maintained 7 speed bike will be far better for you in several months time, than a poorly maintained 11 speed bike. <A> I once used ISIS spindle to undo cassette lockring. <S> Even though the shape and diameter is similar, there are 12 splines on lockring opposed to 10 on ISIS spindle. <S> There will be some contact, that might be sufficent. <S> Just undo crank on one side and use crank on the other side as lever. <S> However this probably won't work for properly torqued lockring.
|
You will also need some way to hold the old cassette to undo the lockring. You really will struggle to complete this task without the proper tools, I can't actually imagine how you would do it successfully. There exist Bicycle Co-operatives who exist to help you with your bike. My answer is, if you can afford to upgrade to 11 speed, you can afford to buy the tools, or to pay the labour, or to travel and visit someone who will lend you the tools.
|
Is this level of rusting removable by sandblasting? Is this rusted steel frame still salvageable? The local bicycle shop does sandblasting before they powdercoat a frame. Do you think the sandblasting alone would be enough to remove the rust? I'm aware that all traces of rust must be removed, or the corrosion will continue under the new layer of paint. I'm just not sure if it would be possible in this case. <Q> Any amount of rust is removable by sandblasting or chemical means. <S> That's not the problem here <S> though, the real concern is how much frame material have you got left after the rust is removed. <S> Remember the steel may be rusted on the inside too, and there may be rust 'pits' that go all the way through. <S> If enough frame material remains, it looks like you'll have to fill and sand the top tube <S> smooth <S> otherwise it will look horrible when painted <S> I think at this stage you have to ask yourself if all this work is worth the time and money. <S> If the frame is a rare, classic or means a lot to you it may be worth restoring, but would it cost less to just by another used bike? <A> This would also treat any surface rust prior to sand blasting. <S> Check your areas for auto shops which do restoration work as they likely can point you to a shop with a large bath. <S> Should you decide to attempt to do the acid bath yourself do your homework. <S> Some acids such as muriatic acid will release toxic gasses. <A> I recommend sandpaper on the paint and then emory cloth on the metal. <S> Blasting it could cause more damage. <S> It is tedious, but it is the best way.
|
The top tube walls may be too thin for the frame to have structural integrity. If there is significant rust inside the frame it can be treated with an oxalic acid or other type of acid bath. Some paint shops also do this service.
|
Can frequent light bicycle commuting severely damage pants? I bought a nice pair of pants to wear to work, and I am reasonably certain they were of good quality (although maybe I was mistaken) and I found that the seat of the pants was worn down to holes in less than a year of near-daily commuting. I commute by bike to my workplace and I don't bother changing because it's a leisurely 15 minute ride and I don't work up a sweat, even when wearing business-casual attire. I of course use the bike to go elsewhere but it is the same in that I don't "ride hard", so to speak. One thing to note though is that the seat was leather but cracked so there were some sharp edges on the torn leather which may have contributed to the problem. I'm just wondering if anybody else has had experience with pants becoming worn out in the seat due to only light riding, and with an undamaged seat, because it will make me more hesitant to wear work clothes on the bike in the future. <Q> Absolutely. <S> The thicker your thighs, the more friction, and the quicker the pants loose their thread. <S> This happens relatively irrespective of material, even jeans can wear through rather quickly. <S> I guess that specialized bike wear uses materials that are much less prone to this, but I have not tested that myself. <S> Of course, saddles with sharp edges do contribute to the wear. <S> Yet, one pair of pants in a year is not too bad. <S> I've worn down jeans within two or three months, simply by biking a lot more with them than you do. <A> It depends. <S> I have had one saddle that wore through pants quickly. <S> It had an embroidered logo. <S> After removing the embroidery (which took quite some effort) I did not have the problem with that saddle either. <S> Sharp edges or cracked surface could have the same effect. <S> Cycling specific trousers, both lycra and baggy, are made of slippery fabric. <S> The low friction both reduces wear and is more comfortable in the saddle. <S> Baggy cycling trousers are also often made of synthetic materials that dry quicker than cotton. <A> Absolutely. <S> The seat of my favourite ever pair of trousers was ruined in a single journey, no more than about three miles. <S> There was nothing wrong with my saddle. <S> They were an unusual fabric and I should have guessed they wouldn't take kindly to cycling, but it was late and I had nowhere to change. <S> It still makes me sad to think of them twenty years later. <A> I had several pair of wool dress pants ruined by a major premium brand of leather saddle: it was the rivets. <S> The leather sank around the rivet heads, and their sharp edges stuck up. <S> I didn't notice until my wife mentioned it. <S> I threw the saddle out and now use an economy vinyl saddle, which has remained smooth and is every bit as comfortable. <A> Aside from the odor issues, when perspiration dries it leaves salt crystals behind, which are very abrasive. <A> Biking-specific pants are a different story, and decent ones can tolerate thousands of kilometers in the saddle.
|
In my experience biking can destroy many kinds of "normal" pants quite quickly, whatever the saddle. In addition to the other issues, if you perspire at all while wearing shorts or trousers, be sure to wash them before wearing them again.
|
Two handlebars on bicycle I have butterfly shaped handlebars on my hybrid bicycle. These were an aftermarket addition. These allow for different positions but I would like to add another set of handlebars with a wider position above the butterfly handlebars. There is a component that allows this attachment of additional handlebars but I do not know what it is called. This looks like two bars with loops on each end and they are positioned on to the existing handlebars and affixed then to the additional handlebars above the existing. Can anybody help with the name of this component and where to get them? <Q> From later comments - those loop-type attachments are only rated for attaching accessories like lights and so-forth. <S> These are NOT handlebars <S> They are intended to be used like this <S> If you want higher bars, then raise your bars with a higher stem. <S> The dirty-hack described in JonR's excellent answer remains a workaround at best. <S> Always consider how you're going to get to the brakes in an emergency. <A> The part you describe is similar to the bracket that is used to add a short bar to give more space for installing headlights and cycle computers. <S> You can search for "bicycle handlebar extended bracket headlight mount bar" to find it. <S> I have never seen it used for extra handlebars, and I'm not sure it could support the rider's weight during braking or hitting a big bump. <S> The question reminds me of a double handlebar custom bike described on sheldonbrown.com. <S> It has a threadless fork with the lower set of handlebars clamped to the steering tube like normal. <S> The star nut inside the steering tube is omitted to allow a quill stem to mount inside the steering tube, like with a threaded fork. <S> Go read his description: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/org/thorn-index.html <A> The 2nd stem could have a high rise to farther separate the two sets of bars. <S> If you do an internet search for "threadless steerer tube extender" you'll find some examples. <S> Dimension makes a 115mm (4.5") extension. <S> I'm assuming you have a 1-1/8" steerer. <S> If you have a 1" steerer I don't know of any options beside buying a cheap used fork that has an uncut steerer tube... <S> Which by the way may be a lower cost option if you have a local bike Co-Op or similar non-profit.
|
A solution similar to the Sheldon Brown bike would be to use a steerer extension which you would use to mount a second stem & bars.
|
Fit a chainguard when there is a front derailleur My bicycle has a front derailleur. It's a hybrid. I use it to commute and would like to fit a chainguard. Is there any chainguard that can be fitted when there is a front derailleur? <Q> There are a few plastic chainguards for front derailleurs. <S> I never found a full chaincase but managed to fit this de Woerd Wave chainguard to a mountainbike used for commuting (3×7 gears I think). <S> I failed to get the same model working on my 3×8 hybrid, though it had the same chainrings as the MTB. <S> I would go on, but I couldn't avoid it rubbing in some gears because I couldn't get the bottom bracket clamp to sit straight, and never got round to modifying it enough to make it work to my satisfaction. <S> Holland bike shop has a wider range of de Woerd parts ; some are specified for double or triple chainrings. <S> I'm sure there are other makes, but these are the ones I've come across <S> A double chainring would be easier to work with than a triple, but you may have to modify the chainguard a little - easy if it's the fairly soft plastic part, but harder if it's the mounting brackets (which have to be secure to be safe). <A> With all the expertise here on SE, I must be missing something, but I throw this out there: Usually I don't have chainguards on my cranks and have no problems if I've strapped the right cuff of my pants. <S> For about 9 months, I ran the pictured crankset, was able to leave the strap off my leg and had zero problems. <S> For whatever reason, sweatpants--the nylon shell type ones--are the biggest catchers of the chainwheel unless secured. <S> Even these remained immune to snags with this device. <S> It was nice to be able to hop on the bike without regard for what I was wearing or the need to find a suitable strap to secure my pants leg. <S> At any rate, this ring of plastic did the trick every time irregardless of what I wore. <A> The two general purposes for a chain guard are: <S> Keep one's pants out of the chain & drivetrain <S> Keep the chain & drivetrain clean(er) <S> If you're only looking to keep your pants out of the chain, this DIY project would work for two chainrings: <S> Chain Guard Made From Chainring <S> The above option might also fit on a triple crankset by using longer chainring mounting bolts and spacers. <S> The challenge is having sufficient room between the chainguard and the crank arm. <S> A gap cut in the chainring could be used to provide clearance for the crank arm. <S> Aluminum chainrings are soft and easy to work with. <S> Steel, not so much... <S> If you don't want to fashion the above DIY chain guard you can also search the internet for "bicycle bash guard" and also "bicycle chain guard". <S> You should see many options, but it may be a challenge to get one to fit. <S> FWIW, the ones I saw were $45 to $65. <S> A couple more thoughts: <S> If there is a bike co-op or similar non-profit in your area. <S> I volunteer at one <S> and we get lots and lots of donated bikes to recycle <S> so there is never a shortage of stuff to rummage through and you might find something which will fit. <S> Similarly a local used bike shop may have something. <S> Or if money is no option there's a really really nice (and expensive) <S> 14 speed internal gear hub (IGH) which would make fitting a guard much simpler. :-) <S> Good luck,Greg
|
These chainwheels with chainguards are available on low to medium-end models, but I believe the touring version of an XT crankset (FC-T780 or T7000) has an optional chainguard. Changing the bike to a 1x setup will give more options as this makes for a simpler setup.
|
Changing SRAM Rival brifters to flat bar - which hydraulic brake levers? I've got a gravel bike, the Planet X London Road, with SRAM Rival 1x11 groupset. I'm thinking of converting it to a flat bar.From what I have read, any SRAM 11 speed shifter should work, as the cable pull is the same, but I don't know how best to handle the hydraulic disc brakes. Is there a lever that I can just plug the existing hydraulic hose into, or will I need to replace the whole hose from caliper to lever? Is there a specific model of lever I need to get? <Q> any SRAM 11 speed shifter should work, as the cable pull is the same <S> Sorry, that's not the case. <S> SRAM MTB 11 speed uses 'X-Actuation' pull ratio (3.48mm / shift) <S> whereas road 11 speed uses 'Exact Actuation' (3.1mm / shift). <S> See here for extensive documentation of cable pull rations, sprocket spacing etc. <S> However, SRAM makes trigger shifters for at least the Force groupset . <A> Here's a SRAM Q&A explaining <S> derailleur/shifter compatibility: SRAM Trigger Shifters <S> On A Road Bike <S> Regarding brakes SRAM states the road Hydraulic levers are not compatible with their mountain calipers so I would not expect the mountain levers are not compatible with the road calipers. <S> SRAM Road Lever Mountain Caliper <S> In-compatible <S> So if you want to go down this path you'll need the S700 trigger shifters and a complete set of MTB brake levers & calipers. <A> When choosing a lever you need to make sure the olive/insert (the parts you install on the end of the hydraulic hose in order to create a seal at the lever) are suitable for the (diameters of the) hydraulic hose that is currently installed on your brake caliper. <S> I've found the following sized for different brands: (ID=inner diameter, OD=outer diameter) <S> Here is an overview of the different hose sizes per brand : Shimano (BH90) + Avid + Formula + Sram: ID: 2.1mm , <S> OD: 5mmShimano (BH59) <S> + Magura MT: <S> ID: 2.3mm , OD: <S> 5mmTektro <S> /Hayes/Promax: <S> ID: 2.5mm, OD: 5.4-5.5mm From what I've found online Sram, Avid and Shimano BH90 <S> (shimano hoses come in two versions/sizes IIRC, BH90 and BH59) use the same size (ID/OD) <S> hydraulic brake hose. <S> This means you should be able to use any lever suited for flat bars from Avid/Sram (as long as they do indeed use ID = <S> 2.1mm and OD = <S> 5 <S> mm hydraulic hose (there might be some exceptions)) and all shimano brakes which use BH90 hydraulic hose. <S> If you use a hydraulic hose which is not the correct sizing (ID/OD) <S> you have a high risk of the brake leaking.. <S> so I would advise against this. <S> To get a similar 'lever feel' to your original brifters you'll need a new brake lever which has approximately the same mechanical advantage.. <S> (advantage due to brake lever arm itself and advantage due to different piston size in lever and caliper).You'd <S> be best off sending Sram an email regarding this I think since this info (especially hydraulic piston size) isn't readily available for most brake levers (in my experience). <S> There are examples online of people mixing and matching different brands of shifters/levers together, I don't have any personal experience with this yet.. <S> Example:
|
The hose diameters (inner and outer diameter) differ between different brands of hydraulic brakes. As Argenti mentioned, SRAM has the S700 series of trigger shifters that work with the road derailleurs.
|
Retaining M5 bolts for bottle cages I have a Ti frame. Alloy M5 bolts (they were greased) not working too well for me for holding the bottle cages - one seized / broke off, and I lost the boss/insert (?) when a mechanic drilled out the sheared-off bolt. I understand that a light or medium loctite usually performs better than grease However, are there any special considerations using Ti M5 bolts? (since in a moment of extravagance I have bought some, and currently awaiting delivery) <Q> Sorry to hear about your bike... <S> Titanium anti seize is what you need. <S> Park Tool makes one and you can usually find other brands of anti seize for a bit less at an automotive parts store <S> but you may end up with a lifetime supply as bikes use very little. <A> @peter If you use locktite make sure you DO NOT USE red. <S> Use the blue. <A> Titanium is light, strong, and like aluminum, is corrosion resistant by virtue of the formation of an inert oxide layer on the outside. <S> As long as this oxide layer remains intact, a titanium part is very corrosion resistant and will not react to other metals. <S> Thus, grease applied to the titanium threads will prevent galling, which will expose the reactive titanium as this protective oxide layer gets stripped off. <S> See this article on galling and titanium fasteners
|
Copper anti-seize grease seems to be the go-to product for the titaniums protection and prevents reactions between differing metals.
|
Does anyone know what make and model this bike is? Production year? I found this bike while cleaning up a foreclosed home. I liked it and saved it from others taking it to the recycling center. Does anyone know what make, model and possibly year that it is? <Q> Pictures can also be found here Just for image reference <S> If anyone has time, a whole host of Schwinn catalogues can be found here History Catalogues <A> I dont know the model name but it looks like electra cruisers . <A> I'm not sure who actually manufactured the frames, though. <S> The extended dropout was on models made in the 60's to 80's time period. <S> You may be able to find a serial number on the left side dropout extension, such as the one shown here: If the serial number is not there, it may be under the bottom bracket. <S> Here's a picture of the whole frame:
|
Those dropout shapes are very typical of bikes sold under the Murray and Sears names. Without too much digging around I came across a 1950s Schwinn Corvette, although I don't think its a 100% identical bike it is i'm fairly sure a variant of the OPs.
|
Why are my new rim brakes worn so much? Got these on 17 days ago and probably done no more than 60 miles. The main commute is 6 miles. 4 of that is a steep downhill. <Q> Reviews seem to be mixed, with reports of the pad wearing quickly, but other reports of the pad lasting forever and wearing the rims out quickly. <S> I'd suggest that when it comes to brake pads, this is an area not to look for cheap replacements. <S> Either use the brake manufacturers own pads, or ones from well respected third parties such as SwissStop or Kool Stop. <A> Check that they aren't pads for carbon wheels. <S> Those will wear quite a bit more quickly if you are using them on aluminum. <A> Maybe it wasn't quite aligned with the wheel. <S> In the image it looks like the end on the right is warn almost all the way through while the end on the left still has a lot of padding left.
|
Looking at the design of the brake pads, this appears to be a cheap generic pad that is then re-branded (in different colours) by various manufacturers. Pads can wear out more quickly when they don't make even contact with the braking surface.
|
How to remove the broken ball end of a small hex key that is now stuck inside the socket While trying to replace the yoke of my derailleur I made the mistake of using a multi-tool hex key that was not able to handle the torque necessary for the task and snapped while the head stayed inside.I tried using gravity, a magnet, shaking and all combined to make the head fall down, to no avail. I've no idea on how to proceed further and am really thinking of getting a new derailleur. <Q> Chances are you were turning it clockwise when it broke. <S> By tapping it anti-clockwise with a small drift or cold chisel, it may unjam it, when a magnet along with gravity and tapping should release it. <A> Option 1: <S> You say you've tried a magnet; was it a regular ferromagnet or a rare earth magnet? <S> It might be worth trying to extract it using a strong rare earth magnet. <S> I have a pair of small ones that are about 15mm dia, that are strong enough to cause damage if they snap together with any part of you between them. <S> I'd clamp the magnet in a pair of locking pliers first <S> so it's easier to handle. <S> Option 2: <S> (Only if option 1 fails) <S> Tool steel is usually pretty hard, but you still might be able to drill it enough with a carbide bit to get a small screw or screw extractor to engage inside it and pull it out. <A> You could try using an angle grinder or Dremel or similar multitool or iron saw to cut a slot into the bolt in which you can insert a flathead screwdriver to remove the old bolt. <S> Then replace it with a new one of the same size. <S> You could try gluing something (for example the part of the tool that broke off that is still attached to the multitool handle) to the part of the hex key that's stuck and wiggling it out. <S> Alternatively you could perhaps drill through the bolt <S> ( drill size just a bit smaller than the bolt itself) and chase the threads with a tap of the correct size (when there's just a thin piece of the bolt left after drilling). <S> I would advice center punching the bolt and drilling from the non-bolt-head end of the bolt (for easier centering). <A> Another option could be to put a tiny drop of CA adhesive ( cyanoacrylate , aka "super glue") on the broken end of the hex key still attached to the multi-tool, and then touch that end to the broken end stuck in the socket. <S> You'd want to be very careful with the amount, because if adhesive squirts out of the break then it could attach the broken piece to the socket even more securely. <S> For that reason, I'd try this method as a last resort before replacing the derailleur. <A> How about a shop-vac? <S> Use some thin tubing, seal everything well with duct tape on the vacuum hose and some oil or something at the other end. <S> With a strong enough vacuum, might work.
|
Similar to the method of removing broken bolts (where the head has broken off and the thread are still in the part you want to save for example an engine block) where a slot is cut into the remaining part of the bolt (that is stuck) and this part is removed using a flathead screwdriver..
|
How can I DIY a smaller Anything Cage/Versacage, or a mini bottle cage In my perpetual quest to carry ever more stuff without panniers, I'd like to fit a second bottle cage under the downtube, for small bottles (e.g. 200 ml of stove fuel). There's space for something small, as my tourer is massive with relaxed geometry, but even an adjustable bottle cage like the Topeak modula EX won't quite fit (and won't go thin enough for such a small bottle). The shapes of the Salsa Anything Cage and Topeak Versacage are ideal, but they're bigger than standard bottle cages, not smaller. The mounting hardware to use the versacage without threaded bosses also adds a lot of standoff, unlike cheap bottle cages that are designed to fit with cable ties or straps. I took this photo for something else , but it illustrates the available space under the downtube and above the toolcase. So, assuming there's nothing on the market, how can I make something, perhaps starting from a bottle cage or even a pump mount? It needs to be pretty robust as it's hanging under the frame, and wants to carry a bottle around 50 mm in diameter (about 2/3 of a standard water bottle). <Q> There is an option on the market as well, in the Specialized Burra Burra . <S> While the cage itself doesn't really 'hold' anything, I have one and find it super useful for strapping in any range of item sizes (water bottles, MSR fuel bottles, growlers, etc.). <S> I didn't love the straps it came with, but a cheap ski strap (e.g., this one ) works perfectly. <S> Anything cylindrical stays seated very well against the aluminum tubing of the cage. <A> Switch to side entry cages and sew a frame bag that neatly hugs the contours of the bottles. <S> Space maximized. <A> Cheapskate option <S> I've done this many times and it's worked great for me. <S> (and personally I find the result doesn't look too bad). <S> If you don't bent it too extremely the paint should survive (even at the bend points), if it does crack or otherwise become damaged you could touch it up with a permanent marker (the cheapskate way), a paint marker or some black (or whichever color <S> you bottle cage has) paint. <S> Before bending it clamped well on a regular bicycle water bottle and after bending It can be used for this (much smaller diameter) <S> salad dressing bottle :) <S> If you want I can send you some bottle cages (I've got a bucket full of them) if you pay the shipping (should be 9,5 euro if i checked correctly). <S> But for that price you might be better off just buying one locally :P
|
:Even though it might not be the prettiest solution you could try the following:Take a 'normal' aluminum bottle cage (similar or equal to the ones you have mounted on your down tube currently) and by pushing down on the part furthest away from the frame bent the bottle cage such that it will clamp down on bottles with a smaller diameter.
|
How to maintain the bicycle after a commute, when not home? When I commute, which is a 20 minutes bicycle trip, I'm able to park the bicycle indoors at a facility, where I can rinse water off of it. See my other question regarding whether or not this is a good idea: Should you hose down your bicycle after having used it on salty roads? However, I'm given the impression I should not only rinse off of it, but also lubricate the drivetrain after doing so. To do this twice a day is a stretch, but if I'm going to consider doing that on top of rinsing salt water off of it. What should I bring? This artificial limitation of "one item" is not meant as a joke, I'm sorry, but I simply don't have the energy or time to do full maintenance of the drivetrain after such a short commute. But a simple spray or oil is perhaps possible to add to my routine. I'm sure others find themselves in a somewhat similar situation, perhaps not with a facility to rinse off the bicycle, but nevertheless perhaps could bring one small spray or similar to maintain the bicycle with after every commute. So the routine in my case is: commute on roads with salt and debris, rinse the bicycle with cold freshwater at low to medium pressure. Then, what? What should I bring, how should I use it (chain, entire drivetrain?), and why? WD-40? Oil? Just a rag? Some other spray? <Q> Do nothing. <S> Yes, nothing. <S> Unless you are biking wearing a hazmat suit through some corrosive volcanic crater where it rains acid. <S> Rinse it off, at home when it's convenient, or it is especially dirty. <S> Give a more thorough cleaning once a year in the spring. <S> Lube the chain occasionally when it begins to make some noise. <S> Other than that, you really don't need to screw around hosing your bike off so much. <S> Just ride, it'll be fine. <A> I would wax the chain rather than worry about relubing it after every ride (and in fact I'm planning on making the switch with my own commuter). <S> Wax is fairly durable and won't rinse off readily. <A> There's lots you can do if you want! <S> The best maintenance is this: keep it inside a heated area whenever it's not being used. <S> Use it often. <S> The worst bikes I saw were ones that had been abandoned outside for long periods of time. <S> Not using the bike allows everything to seize up. <S> Using it will help disperse water off the bike and keep oil and grease from congealing. <S> Even the bikes that lived outside but were used every day weren't as bad off as the ones that had sat unused outside for a while. <S> So if you can't lug your bike indoors every day, at least bring it in when you know you aren't going to use it for a few days. <S> And remember: a little oil goes a long way. <S> Too much oiling, or not thoroughly wiping it off after, leads to buildup of oil and dirt. <S> This creates a gritty paste that will wear out your parts even faster. <S> Don't do that! <S> Yes, wipe it off after. <S> Trust me. <A> One thing you should do at some point in every ride is to shift through your full range of gears. <S> That way you will be warned of any issues with the derailleur(s) <S> getting sticky before they completely seize up. <A> Here is a perspective that my be useful. <S> I only clean the drive train. <S> I ride cyclocross bikes in mud all the time, and I NEVER wash my bikes. <S> I clean and lube my drive train all the time, probably every other ride. <S> I clean the dirt and gunk from cogs, rings and derailleur parts, de grease my chain, then apply good ol' Triflow to the chain, then wipe the excess off. <S> I have used waxes, and special chain lubes, etc. <S> It all wears off too fast, and my drive train always gets gunky quick. <S> I've had the best over all results and least chain wear by just using Triflow. <S> A good protective layer of mud and road junk adds a tad of weight, but who cares? <S> My carbon bike is mostly carbon and Aluminum and plastic, nothing to rust. <S> My steel frames have a corrosion resistant coating inside and out and eventually rust will win anyway, but why speed it up by washing them all the time?
|
If you're going to oil at all, do it sparingly, only when necessary (squeaky chain) and be sure to wipe it all off after. I do not wash the rest of my bike because there is no point. Keep the chain lubed and enjoy the ride. It does take some work to prep a chain for waxing the first time, and it's a little more work to wax a chain than lube it in situ . Keeping it inside is obvious: out of the elements is important for anything mechanical. I just keep my bikes clean where it matters.
|
Using 16 hole front rim to build a rear wheel I have the opportunity to buy 2 front Shimano Dura Ace C40 latest generation wheels at a very cheap price. The hole count for the wheelset is 16/21. Could I build / have built a rear wheel from one of the front rims, for example using a 32 hole rear hub or is 16 hole too fragile for a carbon rear rim? I don't have the hub yet, but from research I assume this is the most equilibrated option, correct? With these, do you think I would need new spokes or can I reuse the ones which come with the 16 hole hub? One of the patterns I saw could work, it doesn't require any crossing. Maybe the rear hub could interfere a bit though? The video corresponding to the screenshots supposedly is a professional wheel-builder as he was a making a project for a 16 hole rear wheel, tough steel / aluminium one. There is also a review from CyclingTips comparing the new generation wheelsets with the old ones. There is a part where they say only the rear tubular version rim is asymmetric. <Q> Sixteen spoke rear wheels do exist, but there aren't very many of them, and to function they need to have extremely stiff and strong rims. <S> In particular, making one of these a rear would require the compromise of either pushing the drive side spoke holes way beyond what they were expected to endure in terms of resisting cracking, or making the whole thing have way less tension than intended, resulting in it being weak. <S> Worth mentioning but pretty far down the list of issues with this plan is that the sort of rims these are (deep carbon rims in an ultra-premium prefab set) can have directional drilling that will contort the nipples around if a pattern other than intended is used. <A> I would keep that rim in the rear position, if these are the tubular version. <S> You could reuse the spokes, but if you are lacing them in a different pattern, <S> and/or if you are swapping hubs and the flanges on the new hubs are a different size, the spokes may not be the correct length anymore. <S> I would not feel very confident riding on a rear wheel with 16 spokes. <S> It's just my opinion, the wheel could be built up if done properly and provide you years of fun riding, but rear wheels are subject to stresses that the front is not, such as fact that more of a rider's weight is over the rear wheel, and torque from being the drive wheel. <S> This is also why you do not see rear wheels with radial spoke patterns. <S> The crossing of spokes allows the hub and rim to be braced firmly in the plane of rotation because of the opposing positions of the spokes when crossed over each other. <A> I observe that this wheelset does not come with a 16 spoke rear wheel, because it uses half-radial and 2:1 spoking <S> The OPTBAL (spoke lacing design) <S> rear wheel features a unique 2:1 spoke lacing pattern with half the number of spokes on the non-drive side,... from https://www.duraace.com/global/en/wheels-intro-deep <S> I can't get an exact count on the spokes, but their page suggests its 7 NDS spokes plus 14 drive side, giving a 21 spoke rear wheel. <S> This is all I could find about the number of spokes on the rear wheel. <S> In the endless quest for lighter-better-faster-stronger I'm positive Shimano would have tried to reduce the spoke count. <S> The fact they don't have a 16 spoke rear C40 wheel suggests that 16 spokes is simply insufficient. <S> I would not go through with your plan. <S> On the flip side, I'd have no problem making a rear wheel using a front rim with the correct number of spokes, which would be 32 or ideally 36. <S> Some people ride rear wheels with 24 or 28 spokes, but that's not enough for me.
|
The asymmetric design is intended to be used as a rear wheel to correct the offset caused by the right hub flange being closer to the center than the left. In this case, being a Dura-Ace product, it's reasonable to assume that the everything has already been pushed to around the limit in the design. Just winging it and assuming you'll be fine is not a good idea here. These limitations don't have to do with the rim being carbon per se.
|
Are there any downsides to cheaper biodegradable degreasers? I’m after a cheaper (than the bike-specific brands) biodegradable degreaser for cleaning my bike chain. I have found a few which are apparently biodegradable, however, I’m wondering if there is anything about non-bike-specific degreasers that could cause any damage to the bike? <Q> I use a generic citrus degreaser from Home Depot (largest home improvement stores) that costs $2.99 a bottle. <S> Works fine, does not damage the bike. <A> This question came up recently in Lennard Zinn's Technical Q&A column . <S> But this is a matter of weeks or months. <S> If you rinse off your chain the same day, it won't be a problem. <A> The ones available around here , at least, seem to be generally less effective than the bike ones on a per-unit-volume basis, so you might need to use a bit more, but it certainly shouldn't do any damage (which would tend to result from them being too strong).
|
Apparently if you leave a part in Simple Green (the degreaser he specifically discussed) for a very long time, the metal can deteriorate.
|
Methods for selling used bike I have a used bike I would like to sell. It's relatively high end (retail price was about $3.5k). I put the bike for sale on Craigslist at what seemed to be a good price, especially relative to others on the site that I've seen, but haven't gotten any responses at this time. What other methods or services are popular and reliable to sell a used bike? EDIT: To be clear, I don't want tips about why my ad might not be good on Craigslist, as that is a very different question and probably not helpful to most readers. I'm curious about reliable venues to sell used bikes from people who have experience with that. <Q> Best methods to sell a bike will vary depending on where you are located. <S> See https://www.facebook.com/groups/dcusedicyclemarketplace/ as an example. <S> Pinkbike has a buying and selling section https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/ <S> but it seems to be dominated for really high end bikes (think > US$5K). <S> The general rule is that if you can't sell something you are asking to much for it. <S> Try checking Bicycle Blue Book <S> https://bicyclebluebook.com <S> to get an idea of how much your bike is worth. <S> Many folks will say BBB values are BS, and I partially agree as values are dependent on many factors, but at least you'll get an idea what you should be asking ($100s vs $1000s). <S> Post Christmas winter is probably a bad time to try to sell a bike. <S> Wait until the warmer spring weather appears and you may have more luck. <A> Some additional options which may work... <S> Local bike shops sometimes have a bulletin board where one can post an ad. <S> There are many FB groups for specific types of riding. <S> For example in Colorado there's the "Front Range Fatties" which caters to all the snow/fat bike people. <S> Depending upon the group one may be able to advertise. <S> Similarly Colorado has a "Front Range Bike Swap" marketplace on FB. <S> This is generic to all types of cycling gear but posting anything not bike related will quickly get one banished. <S> Velo News magazine, based in Boulder Colorado, has an annual "Velo Swap" which is a huge event where manufacturers, shops, pro teams, racers, and people with way too much stuff will buy space and unload whatever they can. <S> You might check around to see if there is a similar used gear event in your area. <S> If you have friends who are in a club you might check to see if they have a FB group and if people advertise gear for sale. <S> Regarding BBB (Bicycle Blue Book), the pricing seems to be much lower than what people ask for their bikes in Colorado. <A> High-end stuff has a relatively small group of potential customers, and the supplier is more likely to know them. <S> As you say, its not a BSO, so consider whatever they offer as a buy-back value as an indication. <S> Another option is to go with an auction. <S> List it well with a low start, and the market will tell you exactly what its worth. <S> Sadly used bike prices are generally low, whereas high-end new bike prices are "inflated" by comparison. <S> If you're a business, check with your accounting people, to see if a donation makes financial sense. <S> I Am Not An Accountant, but its conceivable <S> that donating the bike to a charity may get you a better tax situation. <S> Locally to me, http://ironmaori.com/ have been looking for good usable road bikes for teenagers to get into triathlon without the big initial costs. <S> Your last option is to hold onto it with an aim to riding again. <S> This may not suit your present plans, but life has a habit of changing over time. <S> Storage might be a better solution for you, or pass it onto a family member as a "long term loan" <A> Search for a LBS sponsoring a consignment sale. <S> The bike shop does all the work in terms of collecting payment (cash credit or check), assisting the buyer with sizing etc. <S> In exchange they will typically either give you a 90-100% store credit or 70-75% in cash. <S> The commission varies with the sponsor. <S> You need not be present to sell. <S> They can guide you to set a price that is reasonable. <S> The advantage for you is people attend with the intention of buying a bike, they can compare yours to others and see what a great deal it is, they can pay with a credit card (buy more bike than they can afford). <S> Because there are typically large crowds at the opening people tend to impulse buy. <S> The one I regularly attend is for 2 days, they offer the option of automatically lowering the price on the second day if you wish.
|
A solution for a specialist item like a high-end bike is to check with the original supplier and see what they offer in terms of trade-in. If you are in North America local Facebook marketplaces oriented to bikes or bike gear can be good. If you're in an area with a small bike community you're likely going to get little or no interest in your ad.
|
Recurring flats on new bike I have had four flat tyres in less than two months. Some more information: I've only experienced repeated flats since I started using racing bikes (two months ago). I'm 194cm tall and weigh 74kg. I have cycled several 80-140km rides in the past two months. I only cycle on-road. I avoid potholes / manholes / cracks etc as much as possible (but not completely). It first happened on a cheap, unbranded second-hand racer. I bought a much newer (mono-q) racer and experienced a flat tire after within the first 100km. Even after getting a new bike with brand new tires, and having it all fitted professionally to my specifications, I'm still experiencing flats. It's really perplexing. What might I be doing wrong? Edit: mystery solved (for now). I think it's just a matter of me using the wrong tyres. The ones I was using are designed primarily for going fast, meaning they are apparently too thin / smooth to cope with small stones etc. Hopefully getting thicker and more textured tyres will solve this. <Q> I see three possibilities: <S> Your tire pressure is too low and you are getting pinch flats. <S> As a reference point, with 25mm wide tires and your 74kg weight I’d use at least 6bars (600 kPa) of pressure, better 6.5 or 7. <S> Refill every week or so. <S> Usually with pinch flats you’ll have two holes in opposing sides of the tube, like a snake bite (hence why they are also called snake bites). <S> Spoke ends or burrs are poking into the tube. <S> Also check that nothing is sticking out of the tire. <S> Sometimes the piece of glass which caused the previous flat is still sticking in the tire. <S> Bad luck or lots of sharp debris on the road. <S> You could use more puncture proof tires, use tire sealant or go all the way and go tubeless. <A> there are a few things to check: <S> make sure the rim tape is in good condition (no tears/holes, <S> make sure it's properly aligned in the rim) remove rim tape and check if any spokes protrude more than approx 1-2mm past the top of the spoke nipples, if they do consider shortening these spokes with a file, Dremel or the like or adjusting the spokes such that they are no longer protruding (if possible whilst keeping the wheel true/round) check rim bed/edges (where the tire contacts the rim) for damage (sharp/pointy spots which could potentially damage the tire), if you find any sand/file them down <S> so they're smooth <S> (inflate inner tube just a bit, check if it is not pinched anywhere and if all is good inflate the rest of the way) <S> For fixing flats I personally find it useful to clamp the inner tube with patch in between a bench vice (potentially with some pieces of wood in between the vice and the tube/patch for wider inner tubes), you could also use screw clamps for this purpose. <A> Others have already suggested some likely explanations, which I agree with. <S> If you're not already doing this, I suggest that you line up the labels on your tires with your valve stems. <S> Aside from looking more "pro," this has a real benefit: <S> when you find the punctured spot in the tube, you can map that back to the tire. <S> This is important, because a tiny shard of glass can get lodged in your tire and cause repeated flats. <S> Finding these even when you know where to look is hard enough. <S> When you get a flat, remove the tube and find the puncture by airing it up a little. <S> (This is also helpful for diagnosing flats caused by protruding spokes on the inside. <S> If you have the luxury of doing this at home, you can also roll the tube through a bowl of water to look for bubbles.) <S> Mark that spot and hold the tube up to the wheel, aligning the valve stem with the valve hole. <S> There are two spots on the tire that could be the puncture site (clockwise or counter-clockwise from the valve stem). <S> Check both carefully. <S> Look for a tread cut, and pinch the tire to expose the inside. <S> Feel the backside of the tire for anything poking through. <S> Sometimes you'll need needlenose pliers to extract the offending pointy bit. <A> This could possibly be a case of cheap low quality tyres. <S> It is common for bikes to come new with poor quality tyres that do not have any sort of puncture protection layer. <S> Manufacturers do this to keep the price point of the bike down reasoning that anyone that cares about tyres is likely to have their own preferences anyway. <S> So my advice would be to check the brand and model of your tyres and look for some reviews. <S> If they are not a good quality tyre then replacing them with something better could solve your problems. <A> Along with all of the other excellent suggestions I'd like to add - be road aware. <S> As you ride keep an eye on the level of road debris (along with an eye on traffic, pedestrians and everything else!) <S> far enough in front of you that you can make an adjustment if you need to. <S> Plan the best path for your tires. <S> When you see tire hazards on the road - metal, gravel, thorns the glint of glass, the metal grate designed to trap bicycle wheels - select a better path and ride there. <S> Road awareness is important on and off road. <S> The path you ride will tend to have tire hazards in certain places. <S> Be aware of where that is and adjust your path. <S> In the U.S. the shoulder of the road is where all the stuff that will puncture my tire ends up. <S> When possible I stay off the shoulder.
|
Sometimes you have to take it on the chin and ride through garbage but often you can reduce your chances of getting a flat by selecting the clearest path and riding there. check your tire for pieces of metal/glass/other objects embedded in/under the surface (by rotating the tire whilst removed from the wheel and pinching it every 2cm approx to reveal any splinters, do this on both the inside and outside of the tire check if valve hole has any sharp edges whilst installing inner tube make sure it is not pinched in between rim and outer tube Check that the rim tape is seated properly and nothing is sticking out of the rim. You can usually get pretty close by listening for the leak, and I find it helpful to hold the tube close to my lips, which are more sensitive, to find the exact spot.
|
Brake line is unwound can I cut part off? Putting together new bike and then brake line got frayed (just one piece) going pretty far back and cannot thread it now. Can I cut the one frayed piece or does that ruin the brake line functionality? Thank you <Q> If it's only one strand then you can safely cut it off. <S> The problem is that this leaves a jagged end that will hang when you try to thread it, so some very careful work is required to get the cut end bent tightly back against the remaining cable. <S> Often this is more trouble than it's worth. <A> I'm going to disagree with Criggie's answer here. <S> It looks to me like <S> the cable itself has come unraveled and the outer housing is fine. <S> I would not recommend cutting that brake cable or trying to rewrap the loose thread. <S> Simply throw it away. <S> Failure of that cable would be catastrophic. <S> Brake cables are really cheap. <S> The only way that I would use that cable is if there was enough excess to cut the entire thing an inch or two above the frayed line and still be long enough to attach to the brakes. <S> You should, however, be able to keep the outer housing. <S> Just pull the brake cable out and insert a brand new one. <A> Probably yes. <S> If its the outer housing that has come loose, the main risk is cutting the outer too short. <S> Depends on how much slack there is - an outer cable has to have enough slack for the fork/bars to turn without binding, and also enough slack <S> so the calipers can pull without binding (this last bit is more of an issue on rear rim brakes) <S> You will need to cut the outer housing only - so pull the inner cable completely back first. <S> Ideally use a cable cutter tool would be used to cleanly cut the outer. <S> A small rotary tool like a dremel works. <S> Pliers or bolt cutters do not work well because they tend to crush the housing. <S> There's an existing Q&A on this at <S> What is the proper way to cut brake cable housing? <S> You will also need to check if there is a ferrule that needs to be saved. <S> If you mean the inner cable has lost a strand and that it has come unwound, well that could go either way. <S> The best fix is to carefully re-lay the loose strand back into its groove. <S> Once its laid flat, drop some superglue on the cut end to restrain the strands for now. <S> You can also solder the end. <S> I have unwound one strand enough that the cut end was in the open air, and then I used solder to stop it coming loose in the future. <S> BUT this was on a rear derailleur cable <S> and I would not recommend this for a brake inner cable. <S> You need to make a judgement call. <S> You can save that damaged one for the front brake by cutting off the bad section. <S> Aside, this is why I often do the rear brake and rear derailleur before doing the fronts, to let me reuse a shortened cable if needed. <S> Based on photo, I'd definitely try and "relay" the strand into the fluke. <S> Use finger and thumb to wind it back in place - and secure with superglue as you go. <A> I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. <S> So I'll answer all three possibilities: <S> If you plan to shorten the brake cable up to the point where all strands are good, shortening the housing correspondingly: Make sure that you retain enough length and go for it. <S> Note that the brake cable/housing needs to handle any angle of the handle bar that is achievable. <S> If you can still turn your handlebar freely after you've shortened the cable/housing, you are good. <S> If you plan to cut only the one unwound strand mid-cable: Don't do this . <S> The open end of that cut strand will be somewhere within the housing when you ride and operate your brakes, and you will move it under quite significant forces. <S> It is very likely that the open end of this strand will start unwinding again, and this time right in the middle of the housing. <S> Once enough of the strand is unwound, it will stop the cable from gliding through the housing, leading to a failing brake. <S> If you plan to continue unwinding that one strand, up to the very end of the cable, and then removing it entirely from the cable by cutting it right at the end of the cable: I believe this should be safe. <S> There are enough strands in your brake cable to keep it safe. <S> And because all remaining strands are good and well-wound from one end to the other, you won't get problems with unwinding mid-cable. <S> Nevertheless, control of your brake may suffer slightly because there is now more wiggle room for the cable within the housing. <S> So, I would still prefer installing a fresh cable.
|
If the strand is really messed up and just won't lay flat, it is possible to undo one single strand and cut off, but the cut end never lies flat so it will snag any outer cable. Personally, buy a new brake inner cable for a few dollars and do over. It's not worth the risk to try to save it.
|
Is there a benefit of lacing trailer wheel spokes radially instead of crossed? Reading a review of a bike trailer one of the commentators noted that the wheels were laced radially: It is a 16" wheel. Does this configuration have some advantage making it a good choice? I always had the impression that wheel spokes were crossed for greater robustness. Cynically I suspect this could just be a way to make the wheels a little cheaper - but cheaper doesn't necessarily mean inferior, or does it in this case? <Q> <A> A consideration is the diameter of the wheel, compared to the hub diameter. <S> The smaller the wheel, the more difficult it is to "cross" the spokes. <A> Radial is cheaper, simpler, and perhaps lighter. <S> I think that hub flanges are stronger when spokes are laced with some cross. <S> I also think the spokes stay tight better, and it looks better, so my preference is to lace with some cross even in case of front rim brake wheels or trailer wheels. <S> But the default answer is it doesn't really matter for those types of wheels.
|
Crossed spoke lacing is primarily necessary to transmit torque from the hub to the rim, rather than for increased strength, although I suspect hub flanges have more strength when loaded by a crossed spoke. Given a trailer wheel will carry a lower load than a bicycle wheel this does not matter.
|
Should I upgrade the hub, cassette or wheel so my bike will make a sound when I don't pedal? I have a Hardtail 29' M Niner 2016, Shimano XT 10 speed, everything is perfect but I always wanted to have that sound from the hub when I go for a ride, so I want to know what I need to upgrade to have that sound? <Q> It's the freehub rachet mechanism in the hub that makes a rapid repeated clicking sound when you stop pedaling. <S> The cassette is not involved as it slides on the splined freehub body and has no moving parts. <S> (Older technology freewheels combined the sprockets and rachet mechanism on on unit though.) <S> Silent or quieter hubs are usually considered an upgrade. <S> If you really want a noisy hub you can but a replacement hub and have the wheel rebuilt. <S> Wheel rebuilds almost always require new spokes and take a couple hours of labor <S> so it's very often more cost effective to simply buy a new wheel. <A> As Argenti Apparatus already mentioned, the sound comes from the hub. <S> There are various kinds of springs and ratchets in different hubs. <S> You can use this Youtube playlist with hub sound checks as a guide when selecting your hub. <S> The videos also contain explanation commentary for the features of the sounds. <S> For example: <A> BUT, Shimano XT hubs are excellent and yes Shimano is noted for making quiet freehubs. <S> I have wheels from Mavic and Fulcrum Racing which are quite loud. <S> Both of these brands make excellent wheels and charge accordingly.
|
Instead of rebuilding a new hub to your rim, it will probably be most cost effective to get a new rear wheel with one of the louder freehubs or you could even go for a complete set of wheels so the front & rear wheels have the same spokes & rims.
|
Can I charge an ebike from another ebike battery? I have a fiido d2s, and I love it. I'm not sure if I could upgrade to a bigger bike, because it fits so well in the back of my car and public transport. Anyway, it doesn't have a detachable/replaceable battery. I've used this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07TG8WB27/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00 and the charger that came with it while out and about to extend my range. It basically takes DC power, converts to AC, and then converts back to DC. I believe the bike's battery is about 280 Wh and this gives me another 80 after some loss, give or take. But I'd really love to double or 2.5x my range. I've looked up tutorials like this one: , which end up with a battery that can charge a scooter (or ebike) using the DC input that comes with the bike for charging. But getting enough batteries alone (aside from other parts and me probably screwing things up) costs almost as much as one of these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-Ebike-lithium-li-ion-Battery-24V-36V-48V-10Ah-20Ah-1500W-350W-500W-1000W/174033645919 (not almost as much, but also not insignificant). Some of the ebike batteries have 36v, 2a discharges which is the same as the charger that came with my bike. Is there any way to take those and charge my bike's internal battery? Edit: I appreciate all the suggestions. For the record, I know that charging and riding at the same time will work. I do it with my 100 Wh battery pack already. And I know I use more electricity riding the bike than can be pumped into it. But I think if I could charge at the maximum (36v, 2amp) while riding the bike, I could extend the continuous riding time from 3 to 5 hours and maybe the total riding time to 7 or 8. I’m sure I could do this if I just bought a 300+ Watt-hour battery pack. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DVGYDL5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vTlEEbJ1GRQ9R But I can get a lot more watt-hours for a lower price and in a friendlier shape with the ebike batteries, vs that thing. I’m wondering more if there’s a simple process to connect the discharge port of the ebike battery to the dc input of the bike. Or does it need some sort of conversion? <Q> Yes in theory but the gain is not practical. <S> You’re better off swapping batteries than trying to jury rig something. <S> Let’s do the calculations. <S> You note that the AC charger puts out 36VDC at 2 amps. <S> That’s 72 watts per hour. <S> Even a modest eBike has an 8Ah battery, for a total of 36x8 or 288 watt-hours. <S> At 72 watt-hours per hour charging it takes four hours to charge. <S> So you’re trying to fill your “gas tank” with a very tiny spigot, so to speak. <S> Your internal batteries BMS charging may stop taking a charge well below the output of your external pack. <S> My 36v bike for example wants to see 42v on its input. <S> So you’d need a boost circuit. <S> Add to this charging inefficiencies which are usually on the order of 85-90% with each step and it’s not worth it. <S> So just get another spare pack and exchange when your empty. <A> Here is a video I found which is very detailed and shows how to add a second battery to your bike: Video: <S> How To Add 2nd Battery to the Fiido D2 <S> Here's the link to the battery which was recommended a ways down in the comments section: <S> 36V 10Ah Battery Supplier <S> In the video he explains that you are adding the second battery in parallel. <S> Thus both batteries will charge and discharge at the same time. <S> Note the warning to FULLY CHARGE BOTH batteries BEFORE connecting them! <S> You're also on your own finding the connectors, shrink tube, wire, etc. <S> Good luck! <A> Hmmmm... IMO <S> if you get a schematic drawing for the bike you should be able to purchase a 2nd battery and find a method to connect that battery in parallel to the original. <S> Having a second battery in parallel would mean both would charge & discharge at the same time. <S> This should increase the life of both as heat from charging/discharging is a major cause of LiIon battery wear. <S> Regarding the idea of plugging the 2nd battery into the charge port, without seeing the schematic I don't agree this is inefficient <S> but I am also concerned this may not be an option. <S> The bike may have a direct connection from the charge port to the battery (read: no energy loss). <S> If this is the case then you could have a 2nd battery pack with simply plugs in and your range is doubled. <S> OR there could be electronics which would disable the battery while charging (say to prevent the batteries from over heating while charging). <S> If this is the case, then plugging in the 2nd battery would literally disable the bike while it is charging. <S> If you can locate the schematic for the electrical system I'd be glad to walk through this. <A> My apologies if I have misunderstood the question, but connecting the output of a secondary battery to the charge input of the primary would not work "in the field" most, if not all such batteries include a BMS (battery management system) <S> this limits the charge current, often not more than 2A (to avoid damage and fire etc). <S> The primary battery output (when running the motor) should be in the region of 10A (36V 10A will provide 360W). <S> In short, you'll be filling a bucket with a thimble. <S> If you need further support with this, I'll be happy to help, not to blow my name own trumpet <S> but.. I have some silly letters after my name, mainly BEng. <S> I neglected to mention, a 36v ebike battery is 36v nominal, the charger is 42v continuous, so if you do charge using a second battery, you'll get charge when the battery is 42v to around 41v after that, the second battery will be sat doing nothing as the primary battery BMS won't even realise it's being charged.
|
If you're adamant that you will run a secondary battery, you may find it beneficial to find the primary input on the controller, attach the second battery in parallel, et voilà, more range. Or rebuild your current pack so it’s larger but scale the BMS accordingly.
|
How to enlarge dropout slots? I have a Raleigh Grand Prix and was trying to put a modern wheelset on it, but the front dropout slots are too narrow to fit the axle. Is it safe or possible to enlarge the slots? The fork is chrome plated which I hear is very hard to grind. In response to some comments, I'm moving from a nutted wheel to a quick release. Which is really weird to not have clearance for. To be clear, I'm referring to the axle diameter not the hub width. <Q> You can do it with files. <S> The chrome does make the surface harder <S> but it's not a big deal. <S> This is usually seen when the fork was originally slotted to take a 5/16" axle. <S> I'm not a Raleigh historian <S> but I'd be a little surprised <S> were that the case on a Grand Prix. <S> It's also possible that it's a fork that fits a 9mm front axle very tightly, and you're trying to put in a 3/8" axle. <S> (The difference is small enough that a lot of forks can do both.) <S> If that's the case then the amount of material you'll need to remove per face is tiny, whereas going from 5/16" to 9mm is more work with a lot more care involved. <S> When I do this I use a flat bastard file to do the "slot" part, the two parallel surfaces. <S> What I do is give each surface alternating or the same number of strokes with my best attempt at the same amount of force until the axle just fits. <S> This is way faster and as long as you're careful <S> , I don't think you could screw up the wheel alignment too bad doing this. <S> Then you have to do the back of the slot, the curved part. <S> The big trick to the whole thing is re-profiling that area without making it any deeper, or else the fork will lose alignment. <S> In theory you can do it by taking a round file with the right diameter and working the whole area down, both sides at once. <S> In practice using normal tapered round files I've always had a hard time getting that to work. <S> I always wind up using a smaller file, like a 6 or 8" bastard, and doing a kind of sweeping technique to get the profile right. <S> It's an analog process and takes practice, and you could ruin the fork. <A> If the fork is hard to grind, or you value it more and don't want to damage it, maybe you can grind the threads of the axle a little bit, where it meets the dropouts. <S> I've never done this, though. <S> Not sure if entirely safe. <S> But what I've done quite recently was to swap the QR axle for a non-QR one with nuts, on a commuter bike, for anti-theft purposes. <S> It worked fine for me. <S> Maybe you can do it on your hub too, and you can still use the rest of the wheel; no griding required. <S> If you choose to grind the axle, the difference between 3/8" and 5/16" is about this much, if I scaled correctly: <S> If your QR axle is 9mm instead of 3/8"(9.525mm) <S> the difference is even smaller. <S> You don't have to grind the axle all around, just on two sides, into a shape like this: <A> I had a 1981 Raleigh Arena with a more modern 1990's shimano wheelset. <S> The axle did not fit through the fork's dropouts, but there was enough space at the top of the dropouts. <S> Given it was a steel fork, I was able to pull one fork leg/tine out and over the axle, at a time. <S> On the plus side, that wheel could not fall out even if I lost the whole QR.
|
If you wanted to go nuts you could try to maintain the exact original alignment by using a caliper as you go on each slot to make sure you're taking an equal amount off both surfaces. You have to be very careful about this.
|
My front dérailleur doesn't shift into the big ring neither in the small one. If I pull the shifter nothing happens I have a Shimano Sora groupset and my bike is 1 year old. I already tried everything with the limit screws and the cable tension but now nothing moves when I pull the shifter. I'm not sure how to identify the problem and I don't know how to find out if the cable is broken. <Q> Try to set up the derailleur from scratch. <S> Unscrew the cable clamping bolt to disconnect the cable. <S> If the disconnected cable does not move when you move your shifter, the problem is in the shifter. <S> Check that you can move the derailleur all the way in and out. <S> If the checks are OK: Connect the cable back with such a tension that the chain on the small chainring is in the middle of the derailleur cage. <S> Then set the limit screws according to common tutorials. <S> There are many tutorials on Youtube and elsewhere. <S> Just search for setting up front derailleur. <A> In addition to Vladimir's answer, trace the route of the cable from the shifter to the derailleur, making sure the sections of housing are inserted into the shifter and frame stops. <S> If a section of housing has come loose the cable will not be able to pull the derailleur. <S> If you have exposed cable (likely along the down tube) then you will also be able to see if the cable is moving in response to the shifter. <S> If the cable is not moving in response to the shifter a possibility is that the end of the cable has become separated in the shifter. <S> When you find the problem and fix what ever has broken, you'll definitely need to re-adjust the derailleur as you messed with the limit and indexing adjustment. <S> Follow the Park Tool procedure Vladimir linked to. <A> Does the cable move when you pull the shifter? <S> If not and you have cable tension, i.e. the cable isn't flopping around, and you shift and nothing moves, then the problem is likely your shifter. <S> The internal gears are usually plastic and can break.
|
If you cannot move the derailleur when the cable is disconnected, the problem is there.
|
Which measurements are most important to consider for tall men? I am 6'8" and 255lbs so my figure is a bit between Kevin Durant (not as skinny) and Lebron (in shape but not as muscly). For smaller bikes such as what you would find in Wal-mart, I frequently see bike weight limits of 200lbs or so despite me still being able to still ride the bikes without any noticeable issues other than my knees hitting the handlebars. I thought bigger wheels (27"+ or 650b) would help, but I still see this weight limit which is absurdly low IMO as I'm a pretty skinny guy.. I saw another bike that had a suggested limit of 300lbs, but the recommended height limit was 5'7-5'10. Then I found another bike which claimed to support up to 6'3 and 220lbs, but the bike frame was smaller than all of the others at 17" where the others were set at 18". Because I'm looking for bikes under $500 so that I can ride around my neighborhood, I'm going to have to compromise in some size aspect but am not quite sure which size aspect matters the least: bike frame size, recommended weight limit, or wheel size. I saw other questions about tall riders but nothing specifically addressing this aspect. <Q> Among quality aka dealer-level bikes, each model comes in a range of sizes. <S> Published weight limits are not typically contingent on frame size, i.e. it's the same number for the whole size run. <S> There are questions on here about how to interpret weight limits, but most dealer-level bikes are somewhere around 300lbs, especially for more entry-level bikes. <S> All but the biggest bike companies wrestle with economies of scale for bikes on the far ends of the size bell curve, <S> so that's usually the main place someone your height will need to look. <S> In other words, you're likely looking at barely squeaking in, if that, on an XXL hybrid or MTB, and many companies only go up to XL. <S> In the US, brands I know that do XXL on a lot of bikes are Trek, Specialized, and Cannondale. <A> Of the three issues, wheel size matters the least. <S> If the bike is the wrong size, it can be uncomfortable and go unused. <S> It may even be dangerous (e.g., knees into the handlebars or feet hitting the front wheel when turning). <S> Weight/load is something to consider. <S> For larger riders, there can be problems with the wheels, specifically, breaking spokes. <S> This can be handled with wheels with high spoke counts (e.g., 36 spokes per wheel). <S> Over longer time periods, larger riders typically put more wear on the drive train and brakes over any given mileage, requiring more frequent replacing of parts. <S> Frames on new bikes typically carry a lifetime warranty for the original owner. <S> At your height and weight, for riding around the neighborhood, some kind of "hybrid" bike is an option. <S> A hybrid bike has a more upright position (generally more comfortable in the back and neck) than a road bike and is still meant to be used on pavement (Tires narrower and smoother tires than a mountain bike, meant for speed). <S> A mountain bike might better handle heavier loads than other bikes, due to the large volume tires. <S> For your height, you'll be looking at the largest size available. <S> Changing out some parts may be need to get a comfortable fit (e.g., longer stem at a steeper angle, steerer tube extension, re-cabling.) <S> Disc brakes are something to consider: They'll provided better stopping power (especially in wet conditions) and will still work if the wheels go out of round (another issue to be aware of at your weight). <S> If the wheels go out of round, they need to be "trued" (adjusted back to round). <A> Either way, you probably won't find what you are looking for at walmart. <S> They dont carry different sizes of bikes, each model is exactly one size. <S> You should go to your local bike shop and try out their largest size of whatever type of bike you are interested in. <S> Road bikes are so sometimes specified lower, around 250 pounds. <S> You may want to look into DirtySixer bikes . <S> They make bikes specifically for tall people. <S> They specifically engineer them bit big people in mind, starting with 36 inch wheels. <S> They are extremely expensive, but if you have it in your budget, it might be a reasonable approach.
|
Most high quality bikes from bike shops have weight limits around 300 pounds for mountain bikes and hybrids. Larger riders are probably at higher risk of breaking a frame, but a frame breaking is rare. Size and weight limit are both important. Wheel size in and of itself is immaterial to fit.
|
Replacing rear solid axle with skewer Hoping someone can advise. I recently ordered a Saris Fluid2 trainer, which requires me to use a special quick release skewer on the rear wheel. However, my regular road bike is an old Acapulco Giant and the rear wheel is not on quick release hardware at all (photos below). I am not much of a cyclist and even less of a mechanic, under normal circumstances I'd just bring the bike in to my regular shop and have them do the switch, but at the moment we're completely isolated here at home. Would really appreciate whatever advice you can give on doing the switch. Do I need to worry about the gears coming apart when I disassemble? Do I need any adapter hardware? What else do I need to know? Thanks in advance edited to add: I see that someone has already asked about using a trainer with an existing solid axle. That is a super helpful question and answer but my original question - now also very well answered - was about swapping out the existing axle for a different one. <Q> Leave the wheel in tact and see if you can order some 'turbo trainer axle nuts', pictured below, to replace your current nuts on existing axle. <S> If these don't work for you then start disassembling the wheel but research first; you need skinny spanners called cone spanners (£?) <S> to do the job properly and risk dropping ball bearings (annoying). <S> Not normally a huge problem <S> but if bike shops are closed and we're all social distancing atm, then you want to reduce the risk of messing up, temporarily, in case you are left without a functioning bike or help to fix. <S> Trying to patiently find a solution with low risk atm is reasonable. <A> As you have observed your bike has a threaded, solid axle. <S> The wheel is fixed in the frame with a nut on each end of the axle. <S> The Fluid 2 trainer is designed for wheels with a standard quick release mechanism. <S> When you mount the bike in the trainer the special quick release is used which interfaces into the trainer. <S> Older or cheaper trainer designs held onto the existing skewer ends and usually did a lot of cosmetic damage to them. <S> It is possible to replace a threaded axle with a quick release one, but this means disassembling and rebuilding the hub - not a fun or trivial operation. <S> Another option is to purchase a new wheel with a quick release hub. <S> (Replacing the hub requires a wheel rebuild which will cost more than a new wheel for this level of bike). <S> However, your frame has slotted dropouts which allow the wheel to be moved forward or backward. <S> These do not work at all well with quick releases as you have to re-align the wheel each time the quick release is undone. <S> With a threaded axle and nuts this does not matter as the wheel is not designed to be removed. <S> Additionally a quick release may not have enough holding power to keep the wheel aligned in the slots. <S> BTW, if you undo the bolts the wheel will come out of the frame, but the hub and sprocket cluster will not come apart. <A> This is not an easy swap. <S> It would be easier to buy a wheel and freewheel and swap the tire. <S> As Swifty points out in comments - it's a great convenience to have a turbo tire and wheel to swap in when training. <S> I looked up your trainer and read the manual. <S> I had hoped that they could somehow accommodate a solid axle - Nope. <S> It says that you have to use the special skewer that comes with the trainer. <S> The only exception is if you buy the thru axle kit - but you don't have a thru axle. <S> Swapping to a quick release axle requires special tools - Tool to remove the freewheel (assuming it's not a cassette) <S> It might look like this. <S> There are a variety of types depending on your freewheel <S> - Hub wrench <S> It might look something like this - just an example <S> A special flat wrench that lets you hold the cone while tightening the nuts. <S> I requires the right parts - quick release axle - assume your current cones / spacers / nuts will fit on the new axle (no guarantee) - Quick release skewer <S> Your current rear hub parts look like this <S> You would swap those parts with a quick release axle that looks something like this: <S> The simplified explanation of the steps is: 1. <S> Remove the wheel 2. <S> Remove the freewheel (various ways to do this) 3. <S> Remove the solid axle (sometimes tricky - worn parts, lost bearings, etc.) <S> 4. <S> Install the quick release axle. <S> Adjusting bearings takes some practice. <S> 5. <S> Install the freewheel 6. <S> Install the wheel <S> If your bike is a 1998 <S> Giant Acapulco <S> it has aluminum 700c wheels that can handle a 40c tire. <S> Quick release front, bolt on rear with 6-speed, 14 - 28 teeth freewheel <A> I have a similar Saris trainer. <S> I tried fitting a solid axle wheel onto it. <S> In my setup the wheel did not securely fit in the clamp. <S> The only thing I think would work is if you could find some domed caps nuts to go the end of the axle. <S> Finding these may be difficult as axle threads are not always a standard thread. <S> Their website did not offer and adapters or solutions. <S> I would contact them to see if they have a solution.
|
It would be easier to buy a wheel and a freewheel and swap the tire. Possibly your best option is to return the trainer and purchase one that specifically works with nutted axles. Quick release hubs have an axle that does not protrude past the frame dropouts and has a concentric hole through which the quick release skewer passes.
|
Best E-reader for a touring bike? OK, folks, since today is April 1st and April 1st is pretty much the start of the cycling season here in Tropical Southern Minnesota, I figure it's the ideal day to ask this question: What is the best E-reader to use on a touring bike? What will mount well on a drop bar, withstand the vibration, and not jiggle so much that you can't read it? Oh, and it would be nice if it had some sort of bracket to hold it upright, so you don't have bend your head down to read it. (I realize that "specific product recommendations" are off-topic on Bicycles SE, but what attributes should I look for? Humor me!!) Just to be clear For hysterical reasons it should be noted that this question was first posted on April Fools Day. I'm not enough of an idiot to use such a reader on my bike, no matter what my wife may say. (Using one in my car, however, is a different matter.) <Q> How's this for ultimate lounging - you could add a projector that projects onto the sail, not only could you read ebooks while you cycle, but also watch the occasional movie! <S> very nice ergonomics, no need to strain your neck. <A> I think it's obvious that you'll need a heads-up display in order to see the road through the text you're reading. <S> Safety first and all that. <S> So you're going to want to combine this project with a fairing . <S> The alternative is to hack your reader of choice to use a scanning laser projector , in order to paint the text on the road in front of you. <A> A serious answer - consider an MP3 player and an audio-book instead. <S> While sound-isolating headphones are bad for awareness, a single (ie mono) speaker can work quite well. <S> Personally I use two different items depending on the nature of the ride. <S> Its quiet and invisible and works well. <S> Sometimes I use some bone-conduction earphones. <S> These are stereo which is not ideal, but I deliberately downmix things to mono. <S> Often audiobooks are mono already. <S> These headphones don't obstruct your ear canals at all so ambient/background sounds are still audible. <S> Of course if the volume is up enough, its going to block out sounds, which is bad. <A> What is the best E-reader to use on a touring bike? <S> What will mount well on a drop bar, withstand the vibration, and not jiggle so much that you can't read it? <S> (yes, The Glass is back) would be a good solution. <S> There are several different versions of this type of technology. <S> Products like: <S> Optinvent ORA <S> Vuzix M100 <S> GlassUp <S> ChipSiP <S> Smart Glasses to name just a few. <S> Answering the question - It does not require a mounting bracket - It can withstand vibration - It won't jiggle too much to read because it moves with your head Other positive aspects - You won't look like these people: <S> You might look like this: Garmin's Varia Vision Or this: "Smart" Hat <S> To quote the article: <S> This bike helmet makes Google Glass look sexy <S> The down side is that: None of them are cheap <S> They all look terrible <S> It would further enable distracted cycling <S> A quote from well.blogs.nytimes.com <S> “You’re more likely to do silly things on your bike if you’re using a secondary device,” said Kate Terzano, a lecturer at the Arizona State University School of Geographical Sciences and Urban Planning, who led the study. <S> “And by silly I mean enter an intersection without looking.” <A> I’d get one of the early kindles, the ones with the free 3g for life it still works <S> and I’ve seen them in pawn shops for as little as $6
|
A small MP3 player with a build-in speaker that lives inside my helmet buff. Something like Google Glass
|
Alternative cranksets for a cross-country mountain bike larger than 48t I have to replace my chain and gears on my 28'' cross-country mountain bike and I like to use the opportunity to make some modifications. I've tried to read up on this and I already learned a lot from previous questions here, but nothing fits quite right or the answers are too old to be relevant in part searches now. Currently I'm using a Shimano XT drivetrain with a 10speed 11-34 rear set and a 26-36-48 crankset. The shifters are just Deore. The bike and parts are roughly 8-10 years old. I'm rarely using the lowest gear but I find myself wanting for a higher one. I figured the newer hubs with 10t smallest gear need new wheel hubs because of their small diameter, so this might be not an option.The 48t seems to be already the largest chainring offered by Shimano in the XT range. Is there anything I can do to get a >50t chainring on that bike while keeping the front and read XT derailleurs? I'm changing rear cassete, chain and chainrings anyway. Any other manufacturer that offers compatible equipment? Is there a Shimano road series that works with XT? Can I mix-and-match chainwheels from MTB and road series on my existing crank? Would it work with a new crankset? I think the bearings are worn anyway... Any help much appreciated.. <Q> Wanting a bigger ring indicates you'd like a higher gear, not a lower one. <S> Low gears are your climbing gears. <S> Part of the answer depends on which front derailleur you have. <S> Front derailleurs have a profile to their outer cage that needs to match well with the profile of a given chainring size in order to perform well and not cause derailment. <S> If you have a hybrid or trekking type triple FD whose spec sheet lists compatibility up to 48t, then pushing up to 50 might work okay, but it might also be pretty mediocre. <S> If you want to really go nuts, some success can be had be grinding the shape different, but it's easy for this to go south. <S> I don't think that 50t 104mm BCD chainrings for derailleur use exist. <S> Narrow-wides in 50 and 52 do exist if you wanted to 1x it. <S> There are numerous questions here about how to determine if you want to do that. <S> If you wanted to spend some money, you could easily do what you want here by getting a road shifter, front derailleur, and crank. <S> Many bikes with the sort of gearing you've got will encounter clearance problems with the chainrings if you go any bigger. <A> I'm guessing that what you could do is look for 3rd party larger rings that fit on the XT crank. <S> Beware <S> you may not have enough clearance between the drive side chainstay and larger chainrings. <S> You won't be able to increase the size of just the largest chainring from 48 to 50 or more. <S> Also there is a max difference between adjacent rings to be able to shift properly. <S> Update: <S> The 10 speed Tiagra 4700 group has flat-bar shifters in its line up. <A> Specialites TA makes a 50 tooth 9-speed chainring for MTB cranks. <S> Since the inner width of all derailleur chains is the same, it is probable that the outer ring from 9-speed series does not cause problems. <S> If you install one, it's on your own risk. <S> The clearance problems affect mostly inner and middle rings, the outer one is probably fine. <S> If you don't need the lowest gear ratios, with 10-speed <S> Shimano you can just use a road cassette instead. <S> Using a narrower range cassette would also solve any derailleur capacity issues. <S> With 11 speed the freehub bodies are different width, so this would not work. <S> 50/11 is a huge gear, though, and its probably better to learn to spin. <S> I have installed that 50 tooth ring on my bike so that I could use cassettes with 12t or 13t smallest cog.
|
If your front derailleur works with 48 tooth ring, it is very probable that it works also with 50 teeth. On a triple chainring drivetrain the rear derailleur will not have enough capacity (difference between sprocket teeth + difference between chainring teeth) to accomodate more difference between the chainring sizes. It occured to me that if you have a 68mm threaded bottom bracket shell (MTBs tended to have 73mm shells but some retained the 68mm width) and 130mm rear dropout spacing you could fit a road groupset.
|
Usefulness of high-pressure/high-volume switch on a track pump Among the track pumps (floor pumps) on the market, I see one advertised with the following feature: foot-activated high-pressure/high-volume switch I'm interpreting this to mean that the pump has two modes: High pressure and low volume, suitable for pressures between 80psi and 160psi. High volume and low pressure, suitable for pressures between atmospheric and 80psi. Is this interpretation about right, and does this feature make it more attractive than other models for someone who'll use it mainly for road bike tires, but also occasionally for mountain bike tires? I'm intrigued by how they achieve this, since a first guess of how to build it would involve changing the diameter of the tubular air compartment, not exactly something that can be obtained by a switch. But that's for another question (perhaps on some mechanical site). <Q> Are you riding on Tubeless tyres? <S> If so, the high-volume pump can help to "seat" a tyre to the rim. <S> Some tubeless-focused track pumps have a reservoir which can be charged with air, and then released in one fast PHSSSSST to "pop" the bead out to the rim and establish a seal. <S> Note they should not be stored charged, so its not like a portable air tank or a CO2 cannister. <S> I've never personally seen a track pump with a switch like you describe, but guessing its trying to be more things for more people. <S> A conventional floor pump will probably work fine for your bike maintenance needs. <S> Get an entry-level track/floor pump and go from there. <A> That interpretation is about right, I found some more explanation and a positive review of one here: https://off.road.cc/content/review/pumps-and-co2-inflators/crankbrothers-gem-floor-pump-review-2759 . <S> Interesting! <S> I see a couple of use cases <S> Two bikes one pump; if you have high volume tyres on one bike and high pressure ones on another, you can just have the one pump. <S> However, with inner tubes, there's not a huge penalty for inflating high volume with a conventional pump anyway <S> and the reviews I've seen don't mention how well it performs on tubeless. <S> Mid-sized and up tubeless tyres where you want to fill the tyre with rapid volume to seat the bead or save time, then top up to a medium to high pressure where a high volume pump won't cut it. <S> Whether or not any of the attributes are beneficial will depend on your own 'stable' of bikes, and even then how those wheels and tyres behave if you're using tubeless. <S> Sometimes seating tubeless is no trouble with just a conventional high pressure pump, other times they won't even seat with a mains air compressor. <S> You might want to suck it and see - it's not that expensive. <S> Think of it as a good track pump with a bonus feature that will be helpful some of the time, but not solve every problem. <S> For people who already own a pump to suit their bikes, it's not something to rush out and buy, though I am intrigued and interested to try one. <S> It certainly looks like a reasonable option for a first pump, with a little future proofing for the bikes you might come to own (n+1 where n is the number of bikes you currently own). <A> This switch is a feature of my shock pump (which also works as a normal pump) and is very useful to be able to pump larger tyres and still be able to achieve high pressures. <S> You start your pumping with the high volume setring until you are able to do so. <S> With more pressure in the tyre or in the shock (or whatever) <S> the pumping becomes harder and harder. <S> You then have to switch to the high pressure mode and continue pumping with a smaller amount of air per every push to achieve high pressures (in my case above 50 PSI <S> , it is a small pump on can carry around). <S> It requires much smaller force for each push. <S> If you use this mode for small pressures you would have a very large number of pushes. <S> Note: In my case it has nothing to do with tubeless. <S> In that case, the size of the pump's cylinder will be the limiting factor. <S> The larger, the more air you can get there at once. <S> But sometimes one might get out of luck anyway <S> , yesterday I did not get my tyre seated. <S> It had been seated around five times before without any issue but with time the ends became closer and closer. <S> So the air from a floor pump escapes too quickly. <S> I had to order a tyre booster and will see. <S> I believe these boosters (giving a lot of air by opening a large pre-pumped cylinder), no matter if included in a pump or separate, have a higher chance to seat a stubborn tyre.
|
But it could be useful for tubeless on a big floor pump, if it pumped more air than normally possible, to have a higher chance to seat the tyre.
|
Does the front derailleur limit chain ring size? Does the front derailleur have limits to which size chain rings can be used? I have a groovy old 1988 Schwinn Prelude and for the most part it does just what I need. However there are some steep sections of excellent paths nearby that are a bit to much. Fitness is decidedly a factor ;) I currently have a 2x6, I assume stock parts but I cannot be sure. Chain rings are 52-40 and cassette is 14-28. The aggressive old style. There aren't many options for changing the cassette, but I was thinking perhaps I could put a compact or even a gravel/mtb chain ring set on. I use exclusively the 40t ring. I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the 52t. I mostly commute and go for leisure rides, so the racing set up is impractical. Can I simply switch the chain rings out for a 42-34 for example? Or will the front derailleur be unable to function properly? The derailleur is mounted with a bolt on band so it is maybe possible to lower it on the seat tube slightly to accommodate the new rings. <Q> As Criggie says front derailleurs have a maximum chainring difference and min and max tooth counts. <S> the more modern a derailleur and shifter is the more important this is. <S> With an old friction shifter you can probably push this quite a lot. <S> It's probably wide enough to preclude a ring much smaller than 40 teeth, if you want a smaller ring you'll need to find an alternative crank. <A> A front derailleur has a quoted capacity, which is the maximum tooth-difference it can reliably shift. <S> The real capacity might be a little or a lot higher. <S> The actual numbers will depend a lot on the available positions on the bracket too - how high/low it can go. <S> Band-on mechs would have more space than Braze-on mount mechs. <S> In your position, I would simply ride in the 40 tooth chainring and leave it at that. <S> If you want some climbing gears (a smaller grannie ring) then that also depends on the spider you have, and its Bolt Circle Diameter (or BCD) <S> Additionally, if your bike has chainrings that are rivetted on, the whole thing needs swapping, which starts to get expensive. <S> A donor MTB might be a good source for parts. <S> The gotchu might be if the new smaller crankset is a triple, for which your bike's double shifter might not work, and that the chainline will be a little more to the right. <S> However as you observe, we've got more time on our hands now, so give it a go. <S> The worst that can happen is you need to return to original specs, so the only thing that might mess you up is shortening the chain <S> ... leave that till dead-last when you're happy the shifting is working okay. <S> Or if the 40 tooth is all you need, consider removing the 52 tooth chainring and ride a homebrew 1x setup. <S> You can even remove the left shifter and cabling, though the front derailleur might be required as a chain-keeper. <A> I am not that familiar with components of this age, but there are some general principles that apply. <S> The information here is complementary to Criggie's post. <S> Chances are very good that you can't switch out the chainrings on your current crankset for ones that small - you may hear this size called "sub-compact" if you were shopping for current-generation cranks. <S> Cranks have a minimum chainring size that's determined by their bolt circle diameter . <S> If your crank has a 110mm BCD, which is comparable to a lot of modern compact cranks, then it will not be able to take smaller than a 33 tooth chainring (some cranks with this BCD can accept 32t rings, but they usually are special cases; alternatively, oval chainrings exist that have effective gearing of 32t, but no smaller). <S> You would need to find the crank's BCD. <S> It's possible it may have two separate BCDs if there are two sets of mounting points for the chainrings. <S> Given your current setup, it's even possible <S> your BCD is 130mm, which means that 38t is the smallest ring you could possibly mount. <S> (I said that because 53/39 and 53/42 are fairly common setups for 130mm BCD cranks, and your reported chainring sizes are close.)
|
The bigger issue is the 'bolt circle diameter' on the chainrings and crank. It is likely your old schwinn has a square taper bottom bracket, any scrappy cheap MTB could offer up a suitable crankset.
|
Stiff but short daily commute leading to "heavy" legs I'm a long time bike commuter (over 10 years), I was living some 4.5 kms from my workplace, a mostly flat commute (well, maybe 40 m up-and-down). After two years of that commute, it had made my significantly healthier and fast. A year ago, I moved to a place a bit closer to my work, but much higher. I have now a 3.3 km ride home going 160 m up, most of which in the last kilometer (maybe 10% average in the last bit). While I had no problems with my commute just after moving in, over the time, it became increasingly more difficult, and now, I always have "heavy" legs when I start the ride home, and I take much less pleasure in my commute... Do you have tips to avoid this ? <Q> How hard do you ride? <S> If you ride hard and in hard gears it could be that your legs are accumulating fatigue and simply don’t have enough time to recover from one day to the next even though it’s only 3km. <S> It’s made worse because you don’t have an easy start to warm up. <S> Even pro riders don’t do hard training every day, most of the training is spent at an easy “endurance” pace. <S> Take it easy (at least every second day or so) to allow your legs to recover and get stronger. <S> Get easier gears if you don’t have them. <A> Find an alternate route <S> When commuting, we tend to gravitate to the shortest route, which is rarely the most fun or picturesque. <S> You know you can ride 4.5 km, so look out for some 5-8 km routes. <S> You might find a side road that is more enjoyable. <S> Time is not really that important when commuting. <S> You can look at Strava's heatmap and potentially get some ideas for popular routes/sections. <S> Also check out your local authority for cycle lanes or shared pathways, or even green parks where you can ride through, where larger motor vehicles can't go. <S> Possibly contentious idea <S> - your 160 metre climb is getting harder? <S> Consider a route that gives you more climbing - when you compare a 300 metre climb with half that, is not so bad. <S> And finally consider that your 160 metre climb is also a 160 metre descent the next day and you have to earn that free ride. <S> Just look forward to the hot shower at home ! <A> If the 160m climb is right at the end of your commute, overshooting your destination by a few hundred metres then turning back to get a light spin as a cool down may help. <S> This of course doesn't work if you're at the summit, or on a road that just keeps going up. <S> Similarly, keeping moving on arrival helps - walk around rather than just flopping into a chair and staying there. <S> You may also find stretching after getting off the bike helps. <S> I used to have a smaller but very steep climb towards the end of my commute, and found I needed to stretch my quads and calves, at least until I got used to that commute. <S> Try to use a low gear, so your legs are spinning fairly quickly but without much force. <S> 10% is a significant gradient, so you may need lower gears to be able to do this. <S> You can also review what you're carrying - could you, for example, leave clothes and heavy locks in work to avoid riding with them? <S> This could save a few percent on the weight, and you'll feel that (my D-lock alone is 1.5kg, and I can't usually leave it behind). <A> The bike industry is just now coming around to the idea that we aren't all TDF riders and need gears a bit easier than 39/25 for steep grades. <S> Heck even TDF riders are using super low gearing for steep grades. <S> The thing that I have found is that it doesn't take much of grades near 10% and above to really stress your legs. <S> If you've ever done lifting weights in the gym you know that above a certain weight, your repetitions are really limited and you feel it afterward. <S> Dropping the weight makes it all much much easier. <S> Lower gears are just like dropping the weight. <S> For me, I need something close to a one to one ratio to make 10% grades without blowing up. <S> This would be something like 34 front, 34 back. <S> This will seem painfully slow at first. <A> To add on Criggie's answer , it can be that you asking high performance to a cold motor. <S> It takes some km ride to get them warmed up and to their peak efficiency. <S> For your case, either take a longer route as suggested (it will allow your muscles to warm up) or consider doing some stretching/warming up exercise before starting the commute back home.
|
In my experience, whenever I had started pushing hard on the pedals without proper warm up I have always ended up with stiff legs, and I have been lucky, since I could have risked also more serious injuries. Depending on exactly what you're using for a bike getting a gear that low may be something you already have or a more complex and expensive process. Also look for bike paths instead of sticking with roads. When you start up out of the office, your leg muscles are basically cold. But if you can spin up the grade, you will arrive at work much fresher. Pressing down slowly and hard on the pedals is a different form of movement you may not be used to.
|
How tight should cycling shoes be? Ski boots are notoriously difficult to fit. The fitters will advise to go one and often two sizes down from what would at first seem like a comfortable fit. Do you find any performance advantages from wearing tighter clipless cycling shoes? The sizes on Shimano shoes seem to be one to two sizes too small from what one would expect. Is the reason for that that they are meant to fit (very) tight? Update: socks Companion, not a separate, question: What is the thickness of the socks you wear with cycling shoes? I imagine cotton is a bad idea in an intense (i.e. sweaty) workout. Polyester or wool are the only two options (moisture wicking, less hospitable to bacteria growth, etc). Wool would not help much with guarding against cooler temperatures, 1- because wool socks are usually so thick they'd require a different size of shoes, 2- because the shoes are ventilated and so the inflow of cool air will anyway negate the advantage of wool. Hence polyester is the only option. Can you confirm in your answer that the thinking above is accurate, that cycling shoes are worn with polyester socks. These, I assume, would not modulate temperature. The socks one would wear would remain on the thin side. One would modulate the temperature by full leg covers (and shoe coats if/when necessary). Briefly : Can you comment on the thickness of socks that one would typically wear during summer? Does it boil down to preference? Some people wear soccer shoes with extra thick socks and others with thinner socks. Does the same apply to clipless cycling shoes, or does everyone eventually find that thin or thick socks are the way to go? <Q> In my experience you mainly want them to be comfortable. <S> But there are several considerations: <S> If the shoes are too short your toes will bump the ends, and this can become torturous 75 mile into a centurion. <S> On the other hand, if the shoes are loose your feet will slide back and forth. <S> Not only can this be painful, but it means that you will not have a steady foot on the pedal, but rather the relationship between the ball of your foot and the pedal's center will be constantly changing, resulting in poor pedaling (and some additional pain in the foot). <A> IMO you want your shoes to be a "generously" large fit when at rest. <S> Not so large they slide around on your feet but still biggish while remaining comfortable. <S> Why? <S> That's why your slightly large fit becomes good after some time. <S> Naturally this assumes your socks are the same thickness as you'd wear when riding. <S> Avoid test fitting shoes with big woolly socks, unless that's what you ride in too. <S> Upshot here is that your winter and summer feet may vary in width by a noticeable amount. <S> Length of foot doesn't change as much, because the only flesh is around the heel, in the toes and between the joints. <S> Instead its more about width of foot, across the top more where the skin is more flexible/elastic. <S> This is one of the reasons why velcro closers and boa dials and other tension-adjustments have grown in favour - noone's going to retie their shoelaces while riding, but you can reach one hand down and tweak a strap/knob without stopping. <A> You control the angle of your skis through your ski boots. <S> Any slack between your foot and the boots compromises your directional control. <S> Therefore the boots need to be really close fitting. <S> My toes are right at the end of my ski boots, and it hurts when I put them on. <S> However, you control the direction of your bike through the handlebars, and it is possible to ride a bike fairly fast wearing flip flops. <S> Therefore your cycling shoes just need to be a comfortable fit. <A> Scenario: you are buying a pair of shoes, and want to determine whether it's the right size. <S> First of all, your feet are almost surely not identical. <S> Pay more attention to the larger of the two. <S> There are two useful tidbits of information to know about your feet: <S> 1- which foot has bigger bones, and 2- which foot has bigger bulk (muscle mass, or "meat"). <S> The answer to both questions may not lie in the same foot. <S> Now, if your toes touch the front of the shoes, tighten the straps. <S> Are you able to tighten the straps so that you have adequate blood supply and <S> get your toes off the front? <S> If yes, you've found your right size. <S> Perhaps the most important part of the answer is this: You do want to tighten the straps as much as you can (while maintaining blood flow). <S> If you don't, you will lose a small bit of efficiency. <S> Your foot will wobble up and down during your stroke. <S> Ideally, you do want to finish your down-stroke and immediately after find yourself able to start the up-stroke (and vice-versa). <S> A "lag" is not just irritating if you want to go fast. <S> It's also disturbing because, for just an instant, you will not have power, when you were hoping that clipless pedals & shoes provide power throughout the 360 degrees. <S> The straps themselves are likely quite adaptable. <S> If your feet do swell during your workout, as Criggie suggests, you'll have to readjust in the middle of your ride. <S> Whether it's safe enough to do so (for you) without stopping is an entirely different question.
|
Your feet will subtly swell during exercise, making a good fit into a tight fit.
|
I think I chose the wrong road bike size I went to a local bike shop a couple days ago and picked up a road bike. I think I chose the wrong size. I bought a medium size instead of a small. I’m 5’7 and I feel comfortable during the first two hours of riding and then the back of my neck starts hurting. The salesman told me that I have a long torso so I agreed to have a medium bike. Any suggestions to fit my bike better for me? I’m 22 years old and spent a ton of money for my bike and I really want to get the best out of it. <Q> Almost all road bikes have your torso leaning forward to some degree, meaning you have to hold your head up constantly. <S> If you've never ridden a true road bike before, you've probably never had to do that. <S> What's the longest ride you've done on a road bike before this two-hour ride? <S> Since you didn't mention your hands or arms hurting, you're probably not leaning too far forward. <S> Leaning forward (to get lower and more aerodynamic) can put more weight on your hands and can make your hands, arms, and/or shoulders hurt or go numb after a while, especially if you're not used to doing that. <S> But since you rode for 2 hours before things started hurting, your bicycle's size probably isn't too far from being correct. <S> There's a good chance you just need to ride more and get used to holding your head up. <S> As you ride more, you may find other fit issues. <S> You may have to get a completely different saddle, and it might take you three or four different attempts before you find a saddle you can ride without discomfort after some period of time. <S> You may find your shoes and/or pedal combination <S> starts making your feet hurt or gives you hot spots (you'll know what a "hot spot" is and why it's called that if/when you get one....). <S> You may find certain brands of shorts have padding that rubs your nether regions raw. <S> As already noted, you might have your hands go numb after a while. <S> Welcome to cycling - that's all a part of it. <S> But it's important to note that you apparently had NONE of those issues in a two-hour ride, and you seemingly haven't ridden your new road bike for that long ever before. <S> So you're really doing pretty well, and in my opinion you probably don't have to change much, unless you've left something out of your question. <S> At least not yet... <A> If you cannot return it you can still modify the setup of your bike. <S> In fact, an incorrect setup could be your problem, not the frame size. <S> The first thing is to correctly set the saddle height, it is paramount. <S> Then you can move the saddle front and back (within limits), install a seat tube with a different setback and move your cleats back and front (if you use clipless). <S> Then you can move your handlebars. <S> You can move your shifters on the handlebars (that was crucial on my current road bike!), turn the handlebars up and down slightly, move the step up and down (it is probably at the top in a new bike, though, but check) and buy a shorter (or longer) stem. <S> You can also buy handlebars with a different reach. <S> There is a lot to play with. <S> Still, it could help a lot, if you have the money. <A> You don't say how much you're used to riding for 2+ hours, and on what bike, but a sore neck (especially at the back) may be that you're too low for what you're used to. <S> A shorter (and possibly higher) stem, and/or more spacers under the stem will lift your hands, and you won't have to crane your neck as much. <S> I have <S> certainly found that hand/arm height affects the comfort of my neck. <S> Another potential issue is transmitted vibrations. <S> Double-wrapping your bars, and better-padded gloves can both help with that.
|
A professional bike fit would help, but it is not cheap and is better done before buying a bike. So your sore neck is probably just from doing something for two hours that you're not used to.
|
Loose bolt on stem, replace? My stem is secured to the steerer with two bolts. One bolt is strong. The other is loose. Replacing the bolt wont fix it, because the material around the bolt is not that strong anymore (small pieces coming out). Pls see attached screenshot. How can I fix that? Is it secure? <Q> Having just one bolt to bear the load isn't enough. <S> It's chunky <S> so helicoiling would likely also be fine if you found a shop to do it cheaply enough. <A> You need two fully functioning bolts to be safe. <S> Best to replace the stem if possible. <A> I would replace the stem using a 2nd hand part from your favourite online marketplace, as it will likely be the cheapest option unless you have access to either a tap and die set a collection of random nuts and bolts (although getting an assortment of a few common bicycle size specific nuts and bolts can get you out of trouble like this in the future as bolts do round off over time and do seize up if especially if you ride through cold and wet winter conditions)
|
In the bike hacker fix category: You might be able to use your existing stem by drilling out the hole with the stripped threads (leaving the good bolt alone) Using a longer bolt with a nut on the outside - it may take a little filing to get a flat spot for the nut to sit on. The main good option would be to replace the stem.
|
Right Shimano SPD pedal clicks on down stroke I recently bought Shimano SPD pedals for indoor cycling on Zwift. I have not had them very long at all maybe a month. Every downstroke I hear a loud click on my right pedal. I thought it may have been the cleat in the shoe because the position looked different than the left shoe. I made them match but I still have the issue. My pedal: <Q> It's a case of systematically hunting down the source of the click. <S> As Andrew Henle said in a comment it's very hard to understand where a noise is coming from when you are riding on the bike. <S> Once I was convinced I had a click in my bottom bracket <S> but it turned out to be a slightly loose seat clamp. <S> Try wearing normal shoes and pedal on the SPDs (awkward, but can be done). <S> That will determine if it's the pedal/cleat interface. <S> If it's still there check for play or roughness in the pedal bearings. <S> Take the SPDs out and re-install your old pedals. <S> If it's still there then you need to start looking at the BB or drivetrain. <A> If the click is once per pedal rotation, its 90% likely to be a bearing roller/ball or a bearing surface. <S> The unknown is whether its inside the pedal, or there's a chance <S> its in your bottom bracket. <S> Other very small and less-likely possibilities include A tooth on the chainring not meshing smoothly with the chain, so it Clicks audibly as the roller drops a little late. <S> A crack in the frame that faces sideways and only moves when the frame is stressed to the left by pressure on the pedal <S> Your saddle/rails/clamps <S> /seatpost clamp - again unlikely, but most of us have a preferred leg which is more powerful than the other. <S> Could be pressure is allowing some movement to click, and because your ears are approximately in-line with the saddle/clamp/bb/cranks/pedals then identifying the source of the sound while riding is hard. <S> This last can be easier <S> if you get someone else to ride the bike while you get down and look closely (can't try THAT on the open road!) <S> What its not : Chain (because the click would not be at the same point in the crank rotation) <S> Anything in the transmission after/behind the chain (if it were then the click would vary with gear, and would stop when coasting) Wheels (again speed of click would vary with velocity and not be synched with crank load) <A> Another possibility is the threads of the pedal. <S> I had a similar problem, and unscrewing the pedal, applying titan grease to the threads and screwing it back in solved it. <A> I screwed it tighter and now no noise! <S> Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone!
|
After playing around, it looks like my right pedal was not screwed in all the way.
|
How to get a decent workout on a mid sized, flat parking lot? I'm looking for a way to have a bicycle based workout in the middle of the COVID-19 quarantine. I do not own a roller trainer of any type, nor materials good enough to make one myself. In my country there is a full(ish) lockdown and I cannot go out for training. I live on a building complex that has a mid-sized parking lot but it is almost completely flat. I'm searching for a way to increase resistance to the bike to get a meaningfull training out of a 40-60 ride. The first idea thar I have is to put a rubber band to depreess the rear brake lever to make it act as a drag brake. (disk brake) (Would it damage or excesively wear the brakes pad/rotor?) Another idea is to put some sort of "fins" into the rear tire to make it generate air drag (Maybe attached to the spokes perpendicular to direction of travel). The goal is to get a decent workout at a moderate speed, the parking lot is not big enough to accelerate a lot, and does not provide a loop path, (I'd be like making a 'C' shape going back and forth.) Also, as it is a parking lot, I do not want to go full speed to avoid hitting or scaring a neighbor who may be walking to/from their car ans suddenly pops up in front of me. The fins idea could also be adapted to a simple stand that lifts up the rear tire to make it trainer like. Any additional ideas on how to get a workout are appreciated. I'd also appreciate anecdotal information if you wave opted for such an approach sometime. I'm DIY oriented and Currently I have with me a bike with street tires, and a bike with mtb tires. A spare worn out wheelset and some tools, and I cannot go out shoping for parts, materials nor extra tools. EDIT : Here I cannot buy online parts nor other goods than food or medicine. There is simply no such comerce stablished in this country. Any online buying I've done involves shipping to a P.O. Box and paying a second carrier to bring it from USA to my country. Currently such service is not active as only health/food/journalism workers are authorized to move on the street. I did read some applicable ideas on this answer: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/61837/2177 <Q> Consider constructing a parachute similar to those worn by sprinters: https://www.amazon.com/SKLZ-Speed-Chute-Resistance-Acceleration/dp/B002CLK21C <S> This would generate significant drag at moderate speeds. <S> Just be sure not to get it tangled up in the rear wheel! <S> Perhaps install an emergency release to avoid getting tangled yourself. <S> It's been discussed here: https://www.bikeforums.net/33-road-bike-racing/273066-anyone-ever-use-sprinter-s-parachute-added-resistance.html <S> I often achieve this effect unintentionally with rain gear. <S> Throw your bike into high gear and grind away! <A> This problem has been solved by many intrepid flatlanders, just tow an old car tyre. <A> Ideally you'd fit 4 panniers with something like 10-20kg in each, plus something on the frame, but unless you've got a touring bike you probably won't be set up to carry that much (my touring rear rack is rated to 40kg total, but the front rack is limited to about 2x5kg). <S> A bike trailer would be better still, if you had one and could get round your course. <S> Here we're currently allowed to exercise in public with no explicit distance limits; if we do get distance limits my trailer is going to see some use. <A> Here are a couple of options I can think of. <S> If you have access to some lumber and some blocks, you could build some ramps to provide you with a bit of incline to give you extra resistance. <S> This won't be much, but since the lot sounds like it's not that big <S> it could be better than nothing. <S> You could also possibly make do with any such inclines you might find nearby, such as a little hill, <S> steps shallow enough to ride up, etc. <S> Of course exercising in or near your apartment complex is problematic in any case because, as you say, there are people around, and even without a virus spreading it's not a good place to exercise. <S> On the positive side, there shouldn't be as much car traffic. <S> If I might, I would like to suggest a possible frame challenge. <S> People are supposed to stay at home because the normal alternative usually involves going where there are other people. <S> Is it possible for you to get out of the house and go to some isolated place where nobody is at? <S> Unless the police are actively out stopping people who are by themselves and maintaining proper distance (and this seems somewhat counterproductive if they are!) <S> you might get away with simply riding wherever you can go that seems the most deserted while going out of your way to avoiding coming within 20 feet or so of anybody on the street, such as crossing to the other side to go around any pedestrians. <A> Not totally flat of course, which would damage the tubes and/or tires. <S> If you do this, be extra careful to avoid pinch flats.
|
I don't know of any details of your local rules at the present time, or if you live somewhere near (even if not in) a less populated area, but in my location while there are "stay at home" orders people are not actively discouraged from getting out and getting exercise as long as they maintain a safe distance from other people. As your description implies that you'll be spending a lot of your time building up speed (i.e. stop-start riding), adding weight will add a fair bit of resistance. Another option is to wear bulky clothes that would act as a parachute/sail. Let as much air out of your tires as you can get away with.
|
Is my bike chain skipping? I’m new to cycling. I bought Giant Contend AR 1 road. It seemed to be normal the first time I rode it but the second time the chain felt like it was loose. Excuse my ignorance on bike stuff. I really don’t know what the problem is. Or is there a problem at all? Is this normal? On the video I didn’t change gears. <Q> Judging from the sound and the video, your chain is getting stuck in the rear derailleur pulleys. <S> Sometimes it’s loose and not engaging on the pulley, and sometimes the chain is routed over the metal bit between pulleys so that it rubs against the metal. <S> You can also get this if your chain is way too long, but it looks tight on the bottom. <A> If there was a difference between the first time you rode it and the second time, then there's likely some kind of problem. <S> (i.e. not normal). <S> Issues like new cables doing this mean that having the shop do a tune up on a new bike after the purchase is a normal part of the customer experience. <S> A good shop will offer this after a few weeks; if the bike is built well they won't actually have to do a lot, but you feel supported as a customer. <S> Equally if something more unusual is at play, they can detect it and put it right, a good shop would want to remedy issues like this. <S> When you just bought the bike and don't do a lot of your own maintenance yet, then it's just good customer service for them to take a look, and it's part of what you paid for. <S> It's also a learning opportunity if you can ask them to show you what's up <S> and if it's a simple thing you can fix yourself next time. <A> I recently had a problem with an old MTB of mine where the chain was skipping under power. <S> I seem to have fixed it by cleaning and lubing the rear derailleur. <S> I believe it was a bit 'sticky' <S> so wasn't keeping the chain at the required tension.
|
If it’s way too short, you can also get this by trying to force a gear that the derailleur can’t fit, so the chain downshifts or slips off the pulley. Viewing the video, I can't detect it from distance, but it should be a low-level issue - The most likely candidate for a new bike is the cables, new ones can bed-in over the first few rides and the indexing goes a little out of line but is easily fixed.
|
Shimano 105 freehub FH-5800 - pawls not engaging, repair or replace? After a thorough clean and (over) oiling with WD40, my Shimano 105 FH-5800 freehub stopped engaging. Sounds like a common fail: I had previously thought that more oil = better. Live and learn! Bike is just over 10 years old but in good condition otherwise. I don't know if: This can be dismantled, cleaned out, re-greased and put back If the bit with the pawls in it can be replaced? Or if the whole freehub should be replaced and wheel rebuilt around it? Any other options? I've looked at countless guides online to do with all three, but I just can't work out what applies to me and my kit and what doesn't. I'm also not sure what I'd attempt myself and what I'd need a shop for. I certainly wouldn't attempt (3), but would considering (1) and (2) with solid advice. I would need to buy the Shimano tool and a chain whip first though - until this happened I'd never heard of freehub, cassette, pawl or Sheldon Brown for that matter - I'm getting a good education here! Here's the back wheel when going wrong: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8p3vnYAyxyndNtoz5 https://photos.app.goo.gl/CYjnuzZFZSuhisDM6 (apologies for the poor backing track ) Update: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oBSpGwfBUpxfyxDJA (additional photo of hub model) Happy to send more images, but as far as I'm aware, unless I get the tools I can't currently get the cassette off to see more. Thanks all <Q> It should be possible to do one of 1. <S> or 2. <S> but the way Shimano hubs are, the pawls are contained in the freehub body, which is pictured below. <S> So that means option 2. <S> is that bit more achievable than option 1 (but costs more in parts). <S> You'd take the cassette off with tool and chainwhip, then disassemble the cup and cone hub using a cone spanner and regular 17mm, before the freehub body is removed with a big Allen key. <S> I doubt that WD40 penetrates all the way inside <S> , it might just need it's overdue 10-year clean (jks that's not a thing). <S> Here is an image of a random Shimano rear hub exploded diagram, that I stole off of eBay. <S> Part number 15 is a large bolt that you have to access to remove the freehub (Part Y3BL03000 for many hubs incl FH5800). <S> I believe from Q&A on a retailer's website that it is a 10mm hex. <S> Doing 3. <S> is a possibility, don't be afraid of giving it a go, but that might be 'running' <S> whereas option 2. is 'walking'. <S> Arguably. <S> Option 4. <S> is buying a new wheel. <S> Doesn't have to be that expensive, but would be more costly than option 2 and less fun. <S> Your next questions might include: <S> "how do I turn the 10mm Allen key with force now <S> the long end is in the hub?" <S> (Use a spanner) "help, I took apart my hub and can't get it back together!" <S> (see diagram, see How do I reassemble this Quando rear hub? ) <S> and, "something, something, Darkside" (see a counsellor). <S> You should check the rim wear and overall health of the wheel before spending any money on spare parts, or even tools. <S> If the rim is old and worn down near its limits then replacement parts wouldn't be the most economical way to go, you could put that money towards a new wheel. <S> Tools are fun and useful going forwards though. <A> WD40 is a water displacement product, not a lubricant and not oil. <S> It actually dries to a sticky mess. <S> I know mechanics who use it to put on MTB grips, because they slide on while it is wet, then when it dries to become tacky, it holds the grips on nicely. <S> It is highly likely that you have a mess of WD40 inside your freehub preventing it from engaging. <S> If you do not have tools to disassemble, you may try soaking your freehub in some sort of solvent, then relubricating with actual oil (this will lead to other issues down the road). <S> Freehubs are generally packed with some sort of grease that is intended to lubricate and prevent moisture intrusion. <S> If you contaminated it with pressurized WD40, you'll need to find a way to clean that mess out. <S> Unless you are running a very cheap wheel, I am guessing it would be least expensive to find a shop that will repack your freehub with appropriate grease. <S> Shimano's freehubs are not meant to be disassembled and repacked. <S> However, many cyclists that ride in colder tempeatures (like folks racing fat bikes in January) do take apart their freehubs to winterize them with winter weight grease. <S> You might be able to find such a mechanic with some searching. <A> The few times this has happened to me, it was because 2 of the 3 pawls were cracked and the last one was sticky, which is normal but not noticeable unless there’s only one. <S> They’re not that hard to replace if you can get spares and grease.
|
Ideally you will clean out the contaminated grease and lubricate it with new appropriate grease. You could always investigate inside the freehub body first and see if it just needs degunking.
|
Should I buy a mountain bike, what size should it be? My bike is becoming old and I'm upgrading. Where I live half the roads are offroad/gravel, half of them are really old asphalt that has pot-holes in it. I'm thinking of buying a mountain bike, because they look really cool (that's not the main reason ofc), and as I've heard they're pretty nice to ride offroad, but I'm not sure about normal road use. Do they need a lot of maintenance? Oh, and what size should it be? I'm 180cm which is about 5'11" for you Americans. My budget's about 200-300 euros, is that even enough for a good mountain bike that will serve me well for years? <Q> Many (most?) <S> people will want to have both, a road (or gravel) bike and a mountain bike. <S> Some people will want to hove both a hardtail mountain bike and a full suspension mountains bikes. <S> They are different machines for different purposes. <S> If you want to have one universal bike, a hardtail mountain bike is good for that. <S> So is a gravel bike. <S> The preference is really individual. <S> I have both (not at the same place) and the are of use largely overlaps. <S> Mountain bikes with suspension require the maintanence of the suspension system. <S> That is the job for a bike shop for most people, it is more complex than the maintenance of bikes without suspension. <S> It should be done regularly. <S> There are tutorials available, but even with that most people won't want to do it themselves. <S> The size can really only be selected after you chose the bike model you want. <S> Follow the manufacturer recommendation, try it if you can, ask the bike shop if you can. <S> But when buying online I would follow the manufacturer, you probably do not have enough free money for a bike fit. <S> Your size will probably be medium for many bike frames (for MTB 19" or 20"). <S> But surely not for all. <A> For 200–300€ you’ll barely get any new bicycle at all, not to mention a good one. <S> Cheap suspension is usually worse than none. <S> Look for mountain bikes or fitness bikes with wide tires and rigid fork. <S> Go for a test ride and see what you like most. <S> Unfortunately for a novice it can be quite hard to judge the condition of a used bike. <S> For example a rusty chain could only be in need of lube, or it – and the whole drivetrain – could be completely worn and in need of replacement. <S> Get one with slick tires or upgrade to slick tires if you plan to ride mostly on roads. <A> The 2-300 euros budget is really going to limit your choices. <S> The trade-off is always about what part of the bike gets your money. <S> Do you get a better frame that a brand makes, only bottom of range with lesser parts, or do you get a bike with shinier parts (hydraulic discs/better groupset/carbon forks) and a heavier frame? <S> You can always get a few low cost contact point upgrades in a year or so that really will make it a new ride by absorbing road shock and dropping <S> about 1.5 - 3kg's: <S> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32725571515.html <S> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000670284722.html <S> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32697992814.html <S> The manufacturers could put these parts on up front for a few dollars more, but it would cannibalize their more expensive (and highly profitable) bike market. <S> Whilst this doesn't answer your question about what bike, i hope it helps with making the final decision once you've decided on mountain or gravel bike. <S> Btw, gravel bikes are 3-5kph faster than a mountain bike on the road, 1-2kph faster on clean gravel, but 5-10kph (or more) slower on gnarly single track or downhill as shown on the youtube GCN channel.
|
We can't really say what kind of bike you should buy, you should buy the bike you will ride, that is the most important thing. No-one can make that decision for you. I’d recommend getting a used bike without suspension. But a frame upgrade that's lighter and absorbs more vibration, or a groupset upgrade that changes gear more smoothly, brakes better and lasts longer are major things.
|
Squeaky noise coming from rear derailleur or jockey wheels I have this horrible squeaky noise coming from my rear deraileur area. It only happens when I pedal. Watch below for the video. <Q> Sounds like jockey wheel squeak to me. <S> As part of your regular maintenance tasks you should be periodically replacing the lost/contaminated lubrication from your moving parts, in this case, likely to be your jockey wheels. <S> Here is a GCN Video on how to service your jockey wheels <A> Clean and lube the chain. <S> If that does not work service the jockey wheels. <S> Here's Park Tools page for derailleur service: <S> https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul <S> The top and bottom wheels are different and some derailleur's wheels have a direction of rotation. <A> I cleaned the chain today with the Park tool CM 52. <S> It fixed the squeaky noise, not sure how a dirty chain caused that noise.
|
If/when you do take the jockey wheels out, keep track of which is the top and bottom wheel and which way around they go. Although keeping your bike clean is generally a good thing, it does have some negative side effects like washing away grease and lubrication on your moving parts.
|
Swapping parts from old bike to new frameset I have a Piave (around 2009-ish year) road bike with a frame that has become to small for me. It has pretty good components i.e Shimano Ultegra and threadless stem etc. There is a 2014 S-Works Venge frameset being sold and I was wondering, could I swap all my components (bar the fork, seatpost, BB, headset) Onto this new frame if I needed to? I have looked around to try find the sizes of things to make sure they fit but haven't found a lot. Any help? <Q> Breaking it down: Wheels, yes, if they are rim brake wheels onto a rim brake frame <S> Rear derailleur, yes <S> Chain, yes <S> Cranks, yes <S> Front derailleur, <S> yes if yours is a braze-on type, otherwise new one needed Brake calipers, yes (looking at the frame brake mounts here ) <S> Shifters, yes <S> Saddle, <S> yes <S> All of these parts have pretty standardised interfaces with the bike, which would explain why you haven't found much information. <S> Rim brake wheels have a 130mm spacing at the rear, while disc brake wheels are wider in the frame, or newer ones have thru-axles etc which are different again. <S> If both frames are rim brakes then all is well. <S> You've correctly identified that bottom bracket, seat post and headset are most likely not compatible, as these components are a bridge between the specifics of the frame and the parts which get attached to it. <S> The 2014 Venge has a narrow OSBB bottom bracket, an aero profile seat post and headset with 1-1/8" upper and 1-3/8" lower bearings. <S> See our headset explainer <S> if applicable. <A> A few other considerations when considering moving components from an older bike to a new frame. <S> An Ultegra groupset in 2009 would be a 6700 or possibly 6600 series 10 speed. <S> That's sort-of not doing the Venge frame justice. <S> Would you be happier buying a used complete bike with a lesser frame but a newer 11 speed 105 or Ultegra groupset? <S> The Venge will have fairly aggressive cockpit geometry. <S> Low stack and long reach. <S> Is this what you want? <S> The 2014 Venge geometry can be found here (credit to Swifty for finding this). <S> Compare the stack and reach with your current bike. <S> Beware that the headset and bottom bracket bearings on the Venge may be worn out, finding replacements might be tricky. <A> A minor point of information on the cranks: you presumably have cranks with a 24mm spindle. <S> The 2014 Venge could have a BB that takes a 30mm spindle. <S> As detailed in this answer , BBs for any shell type might take 30mm spindle cranks or 24mm spindle cranks (or, less commonly, other spindle diameters like 25mm Campagnolo spindles, 24/22mm SRAM GXP spindles, 29.something mm SRAM DUB spindles, etc). <S> If the stock BB is designed for a 30mm spindle, you'll need adapters to accept the 24mm spindle. <S> There's a link to one by Wheels Manufacturing in the post I linked to. <S> In theory, you could also replace the bearings to ones that are designed for the Specialized BB shell and that accommodate only 24mm spindles, but I wouldn't bother with this. <S> You could also get a crankset with a 30mm spindle. <S> In theory, the spindle could be either slightly stiffer or slightly lighter than your existing one. <S> However, wouldn't bother with this either. <S> Many current aerodynamic framesets come with proprietary integrated stems and handlebars. <S> These shield the cables from the air. <S> Some may laugh at this, and these are definitely harder to work on, but this does in fact make a measurable improvement in aerodyamics. <S> I am not certain that the 2014 Venge takes a proprietary stem. <S> This 2017 review of the disc brake <S> Venge appears to show a standard stem. <S> If so, you'll be able to swap your current parts in without penalty. <S> While you didn't ask, I would add that if you are looking to improve aerodynamics, your kit and your helmet are two major areas where improvements are a lot cheaper than a new frameset. <S> Moreover, while latex tubes do need to be pumped up every day, they are a substantial and very cheap improvement in rolling resistance. <S> This is not to stop you from getting that Venge if you want it. <S> However, if the only reason you're getting it is to improve your aerodynamics, then you should be aware that there are most cost-effective alternatives.
|
You may need new handlebars and stem if these are not included with the Venge frameset, depending on the compatibility of your current set, or if you want a more integrated, aero style set to compliment the Venge frame.
|
9 to 11 speed partial groupset upgrade? Is it possible? I have a Shimano Sora 3500 full groupset (FD 50-34, Crankset 170mm length with BB RS500 (BC1.37 x 24), Sprocket 12-28) on my road bike. I want to make a partial upgrade to 105 set due to my budget limit, by: changing both shifters to 105 R7000; changing the rear derailleur to 105 R7000 GS (long cage); changing the cassette to Shimano 105 CS HG700, 11-34T (fortunately my wheelset can accommodate the 11 speed cassette); using Shimano 105 SLX CN-HG601 11 speed chain; and still keeping the current installed Sora 3500 FD, crankset, and rim brakes. Please kindly share your thought whether is it possible or I need to go with a full group upgrade? I believe the Sora's crankset and front derailleur should be fine, right? Thank you. <Q> The Sora front derailleur is not compatible with the front 105 shifter. <S> Shimano changed the actuation ratio (ratio of cable pulled to cage movement) on 11 speed road groups. <S> The Sora crank is not compatible with a narrower 11 speed chain. <S> The chainring spacing is optimized for a wider 9 speed chain. <S> YOu can look up Shimano component compatibility on their product information page . <A> No, in general it is not possible to do a partial upgrade when the number of speeds changes. <S> Even the cable pull ratio between 9 and 11 is different. <S> And the 11 speed casette needs an 11-speed chain. <S> If you are willing to change shifters, RD, cassette, you will also have to change the cranks. <S> The FD is then a minor piece in the budget. <S> Your BB also needs a change if you have the 345 Octalink but not if you have the 3500 Hollowtech II cranks. <A> You might achieve part of this, by changing everything for the rear and right hand shifter, but leave the front mech and chainrings and left shifter alone. <S> The downside of this is your brake/shift levers will be visually mismatched, and could have a different hand-feel. <S> Could even have a different mechanism for changing gear if your sora shifters have the thumb click and not the two levers. <S> A second somewhat historical answer might be to change both levers, but to also move the front mech to a downtube shifter on the left side only. <S> This was done in the 90s when big gears were in, and shifting the front was less common. <S> Downside here is that your bike probably doesn't have a downtube shifter already, and the cable stop might not work as a boss. <S> By the time you buy a complete replacement groupset, even less the brakes, you're still going to be spending a lot of money. <S> Do figure the whole cost, worst case, and compare that with a 105-equipped bike. <S> Add in the value to you of a warranty and see how the two costs compare. <S> Remember that there's nothing wrong with having 2 bikes, or you could even sell the old one as-is to offset the costs. <S> Do the numbers and make an informed choice based on your location and situation.
|
Even if you changed just the rear and kept your cranks, the shifting with the 11 speed chain would be bad. In general one has to upgrade everything and that commonly means buying a new bike where all other parts may be better too.
|
Crankset and arm fitting issue I have 2008 Specialized Rockhopper Comp. I bent my crank arm but can't find the same model online which is a Shimano FC-442/443 crank arm. If I wanted to replace my crankset what could fit onto my bike? I know there is Octalink and square taper but how do I know the difference and what is the right fit. <Q> Don't worry about square taper vs Octalink and finding a crank that will fit the bottom bracket you have in the bike, you are going to have replace the bottom bracket anyway. <S> There are a couple of technical reasons, but you bracket is probably worn out in any case. <S> See this answer for longer explanation. <S> If you go with a newer two-piece design (axle is permanently attached to the drive side crank arm), you'll need a different style bottom bracket of course. <S> I'm guessing the Shimano <S> FC-442 is a 9 speed rear triple crank. <S> Shimano's current lineup only has 3x9 cranks in their Alivio, Acera and Altus groups. <S> You could look for a used crank from a higher but older series (see this table on the Shimano Wikipedia page for and overview of mountain groupsets). <S> You can also look for a crank/BB from manufacturers like FSA. <S> if you go for Shimano can use the Line Up web page to pick a current crank and select the appropriate bottom bracket. <S> Don't forget about selecting the correct chainring sizes and crank arm length. <S> Your bike will have an ISO threaded bottom bracket shell; you'll need to know what width it is - either 68 or 73mm. <S> Shimano MTB BBs should fit both but check this. <S> Remember you'll need to replace the chain and probably the cassette when you replace the crank. <A> Octalink: <S> It's pretty obvious. <A> If you want to spend a bit more $$, I'd upgrade to Deore XT 10-spd. <S> Hollowtech is a big upgrade over octalink. <S> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Deore-XT-FC-M785-Crankset-Alloy-Bike-175-mm-10-Speed-Double-Hollowtech/264703915667?hash=item3da1953693:g:8tgAAOSwTAhemwY4 <S> Most of these cranksets come with the necessary BB, but if not you'll need the new external BB's. <S> Handy Visual from SheldonBrown.com
|
If you go with a three-piece crank (older style, cranks are separate from the axle which comes in the bottom bracket cartridge), it's typical to have to replace the BB with the crank, because different cranks require a different axle length to get the correct chainline.
|
How to define if brake pads suitble for carbon clinchers I have Carbon Tubeless wheels ZIPP 404 Weaponary 10 speed, which I have bought on my used Pinarello Ultegra rim brakes.Now I hear that Carbon wheels should / must have special brakes. Question is: How do I determine if I have right brake pads? and Is it MUST to be special pads for carbon, what if not? <Q> Yes, you need special pads. <S> Every manufacturer of carbon rims has their own recommendations for what pad to use, which you should follow. <S> Zipp makes their own pads. <S> This is very bad, of course. <S> Brake pads for carbon rims are softer and wear down more quickly so that they preserve the rim. <A> You need to identify the brake track on your rims - is it carbon fibre, or is it an aluminium brake track bonded into the carbon? <S> This determines if you need brake pads for CF or for AL. <S> From https://www.zipp.com/support/identify/wheel-timeline <S> In 2001 - New decals with red background, white ZIPP with yellow Speed Weaponry. <S> M2CM process allows for the first structural carbon rim with machined aluminium . <S> Weaponry is mentioned in 2002 and 2003 and no later. <S> Not a complete confirmation, but it does look like Al. <S> You should visually inspect both your wheels and look for the brake track. <S> This is a carbon fibre brake track on a Zipp branded rim: <S> Notice the texture, and the carbon fibre cross-hatching look, and a plastic colouration: <S> This is an Aluminium brake track on a Zipp 404 rim: <S> It is a dull or matt silver, and will not attract a magnet. <S> Your last resort is to get the serial number off your wheels, and email Zipp's customer support and ask them exactly what you have. <S> Good luck ! <A> As others have mentioned, you must use carbon rim brake pads on carbon rims with carbon braking surfaces. <S> One of the main reasons is that carbon rims have a lower thermal capacity than aluminum rims. <S> That is, carbon rims will heat up much quicker than aluminum rims under prolonged braking. <S> This article by Bicycling Magazine interviewed Christian Heuele, a representative of SwissStop, which makes various brake pads. <S> Heuele reported that they designed the carbon pads to operate at up to 320 degrees Celsius, versus 180 degrees C for aluminum rim pads. <S> The carbon rim pads also have a much harder rubber, and they don't brake well on alloy rims. <S> Logically, we might expect pads for aluminum rims to also not brake very well on carbon up to their normal operating temperature limits (which, remember, are a lot lower than the carbon pads!!). <S> Additionally, brake pads used on aluminum rims can sometimes have aluminum fragments embedded in them, particularly if they're cheaper brake pads. <S> This would damage the carbon rim. <S> This point is rather moot for the question, as you should be changing the pads anyway, and you should not be using the same pad type on different rims. <S> I tried a set of carbon rims (with carbon pads!!!) <S> in the early 2000s, and the braking was rather grabby <S> and it wasn't that strong overall. <S> The brake performance of good carbon rims has improved significantly since then, but the inherent limitations of carbon do mean that aluminum is a better brake surface. <S> I would normally urge rim brake riders to strongly consider sticking to aluminum braking surfaces - this can entail mid-depth alloy clinchers or deep section hybrid rims (alloy brake track and structure, with a non-structural aerodynamic carbon fairing bonded on). <S> However, this is a point on which reasonable adults can differ, and a good carbon rim should be usable by most riders who want one. <S> Many good carbon rims may have textured braking surfaces, like the Zipp rims shown in the Cyclingtips article I just linked.
|
Normal brake pads are harder, and can wear away the carbon rim surface.
|
How did these pimple/bubble/bump shapes form on my tube? I've been riding on the same rear inner-tube for several months without issue. I topped up the rear tube last week, went on ~10mi ride (including a rest in the middle), and had no problems. I was about to ride again today, but when I looked at my rear wheel I noticed the tube was completely flat. While removing and inspecting the tube I found two obvious bumps/bulges/protuberances/knobs on the inner-tube. These bumps are near a spoke. They are on the inner wall of the tube. I found the source of the leak. One of two bumps has a sizeable hole/cut. It's not a slow leak. If I try to pump it does not hold any air. I remember now that last week, after that ride, I had heard an odd noise from my kitchen (where I store my bike) and couldn't find the source when I went to check on it. I thought, "that's odd", but didn't think twice. In hindsight that noise must have been my rear inner tube very suddenly deflating. It wasn't a bang, but a sound vaguely similar to a bag of rice falling on its side and the grains coming out quickly then slowly then stopping. Sort of like a deflation now that I remember it! The issue isn't glass or debris , and the tire does not have a bubble and otherwise is not deformed or damaged when I inspect it. A similar question and answer makes me think that perhaps I overinflated it when I thought I was doing things like normal, but I've never experienced this particular behavior before and was curious. Also, that user did not notice these obvious deformities like I did, so I thought it could be a different scenario. On feeling the rim tape, I do not notice the spoke protruding out at this spot, but I do notice an obvious dimple/depression in the rim tape at that spoke! What may have caused these bubbles? If poor rim tape may be at fault, must the rim tape be re-done? Unfortunately I'd have to bring the bicycle to a shop mid COVID-19 lockdown for anything beyond changing the tube, as I'm only really equipped to swap out the tube with my skillset. For context, the tire says 700x28c, the wheel says 700x18c/23c. That discrepancy between 28c and 23c always bothered me, but I have no idea if it matters. The bike has been like that since I bought it ~7 years ago and multiple mechanics at multiple shops have replaced my tubes and tires with similar ones and never mentioned it. The max PSI is 115 and I usually only inflate to ~100 PSI, if my pump can be trusted. <Q> The culprit is the rim tape. <S> The glue that holds it in place has lost its grip, and when the tube is inflated, the tape is pushed away and lets the tube to extend into spoke hole. <S> Eventually the edge of the spoke hole cuts the tube with the results that you described. <S> In my experience, this is what cloth rim tapes do. <S> They can be replaced and there are tricks to gluing that may or may not help, but in my opinion the easiest solution is to buy a pair of plastic rim strips and replace the tape with them. <A> The bumps/dimples in the tube are due to the tube bulging out into the depressions in the rim above the spokes. <S> As the other posters have said, the primary suspect is the rim tape. <S> It might be stretching under pressure. <S> If you use a gas station or other compressor air pump to fill your tires, it's likely that you overinflated the tire at least once, which could have contributed to the problem. <S> I've also seen properly inflated tires do this when the bike is left out in the sun for a couple of hours. <S> If this is happening in only one spot, patch the tube (or put a patch on a fresh tube over that spot) and make sure the patch is always oriented over the suspect spoke hole. <S> The patch will not stretch as much as the tube and should prevent another flat. <S> If it is happening in multiple spots, replace the rim tape as suggested by the other posters. <S> If the tube has a Schraeder (automotive-style) valve, make sure the valve is always at right angles to the rim when installed. <S> Apart from provoking premature tube failure at the base of the valve, the valve being at an angle means the tube has slid to one side and might not be positioned properly anymore <S> (i.e. the patch might no longer be directly over the danger spot. <A> Is the spoke corresponding to the pinch location stiff or is it loose?The <S> two bulges shapes are a bit strange, but the suggestion of replacing the rim tape with a rigid plastic one is surely the long-term solution. <S> For the short-term: duct tape, two or three layers, for a section of 4-5 centimeters over the rim tape, to prevent it from moving too much or being punctured by the spoke. <S> If you cut it in thin stripes, allowing for the tyre to be correctly seated inside the rim, you will be fine for osme time (but sooner or later you will be reminded by a puncture about not having fixed it properly...) <S> Maybe the tube can work its way through the single fibers of the rim tape.
|
My theory is that the slightest imperfection or concavity in the rim, even with seemingly good rim tape, can have the effect of "sharpness" on the tube under enough pressure.
|
What width between dropouts is suitable for a hub of Xmm? For a hub of 120mm, what would the dropout spacing be on a typical frame? Or for 130mm, or other sizes - in each case, how close to the hub width should one expect the frame spacing to be? <Q> You can find the whole gamut of tolerances, especially if you include very low-end bikes. <S> All the numbers I have are my own estimations but they are based on taking rulers to plenty of frames and taking wheels in and out of thousands more. <S> There is no formal rule for what's acceptable, so any answer is likely to be viewed as too tight by some and too loose by others. <S> However, a lot of framebuilders and industry types see +/-0.1mm as the gold standard for most of the key frame alignment tolerances on higher end bikes, including dropout spacing, rear end alignment as measured with a Park FAG or similar tool, and a bunch of other dimensions. <S> Many decide upon .1mm as the number where if you try to do better you'll be chasing ghosts, struggling to reproduce measurements, etc. <S> A lot of nicer bikes measured out of the box will conform to that for their dropout spacing. <S> Less premium but still "dealer-level" bikes these days are almost always + <S> /-0.5mm or better for dropout spacing, although occasionally you see a bike where it's more like 1mm. <S> On a contemporary steel department store bike, it wouldn't be surprising to see + <S> /-3mm. <S> For aluminum the dropouts can't be leaned on to flex into conformity the same way and things aren't quite as bad, maybe half that number. <S> You mention 120. <S> Bike boom bikes had very sloppy tolerances for dropout spacing, probably something like +/-3 <S> mm. <S> Good modern track and singlespeed frames are usually very close to dead-on, <S> like +/-.2mm or better. <S> Quickly dialing in optimal chain tension is a total nuisance when you've got gap at the dropouts. <A> ideally it would match 1-to-1. <S> that is, a 120mm hub would fit in 120mm dropouts. <S> hub width is measured as the distance between the outside of the locknuts. <S> the locknuts are the parts of the hub that press against the inside of the frame. <S> the axle length is a different measurement and depends on whether it's quick release or bolt-on axle (or thru-axle). <S> with steel frames you can get away with a hub that is narrower or wider by a few millimeters. <S> for instance, lots of cyclocross frames come with a hub spacing that is between sizes, 132.5mm, so you can use either a road size (130mm) or MTB size (135mm). <S> aluminum is less tolerant, so i would make sure it's the right size hub for the frame. <A> Steel Bikes have tons of flex compared to aluminum so its not uncommon to see lots of slop. <S> Some manufacturers even design their frames with 123mm wide dropouts so they can stretch to fit 126mm hubs or squeeze to fit 120mm hubs. <S> There is also a process called cold setting where you can expand or contract dropout widths to fit your needs. <S> Aluminum has less flex so tolerances are tighter, but they can get quite loose of Walmart level bikes. <S> Carbon has very tight tolerances because very little flex and becasue carbon bikes are high end and it would be ridiculous to spend thousands on a bike and have sloppy dropouts. <S> Not really sure about Ti. <S> It can flex like steel but Ti bikes are high end and customers would expect tight tolerances.
|
Low-end and historic bikes are way more all over the place with dropout spacing fidelity. some hubs can be modified to be wider or narrower. I also suspect its is easier to manufacture carbon to exact specs because it isn't welded which causes warping in steel and aluminum.
|
Recovery from a cycling mishap I took my bike for the first ride of the season yesterday and unfortunately it was pretty short. As I was cycling through the rear gears I hear a plinking sound and then a large clunk. I stopped immediately and went to inspect the back wheel where I saw the following carnage: The plastic shroud that holds the return spring for the lower pivot was broken and the spring had been ejected. The pulley cage was crushed Two spokes were damaged, one snapped at the base of the rim (nipple?) and another snapped off at the hub. I suspect that happened where is the L limit screw was dialed in too far and the pulley cage was hitting on the spokes (thus the plinking sound) but when a spoke mounted reflector passed by it put enough force on the derailleur to break the shroud and mess up the pulley cage as well. With the why and how aside I'm looking to repair the damage so I can go on cycling! I'm fairly new to bicycle maintenance so I'm trying to understand this piece by piece. I obviously need a new derailleur, probably a higher quality one this time around. Is there anything a beginner should be aware of when buying a new one? Besides the minimum and maximum tooth sizes. Secondly, is it possible to buy just a few replacement spokes (I've been mostly looking on Amazon Canada)? Should I replace all the spokes at the same time? Thank you! <Q> I recommend you take the bike to a bike shop and let them deal with this. <S> Yes, you can get individual spokes, but they need to be exactly the right length, which is determined by the specific hub and rim you've got, and the lacing pattern. <S> You probably do not need to rebuild the wheel with all-new spokes, but if you do, it will probably be cheaper to buy a readymade wheel. <S> Lacing spokes and truing wheels is not exactly a black art, but it is an art about which entire books have been written. <S> You'd also need a freewheel-removal tool to get at the drive-side hub flange. <S> I'm a bit concerned that the spoke nipples damaged the rim at the spoke holes where they pulled through. <S> And it is possible that there are other problems that only an experienced eye will be able to spot. <S> It's possible the derailleur hanger is bent. <S> Your new derailleur will need to be compatible with your shifters and your freewheel. <S> I'm guessing that will limit you to a Shimano Tourney. <A> Having done something similar myself last year, beware of damage to other spokes. <S> I didn't break any at the time, but 2 snapped within 3km of each other, 150km later, and when I removed the cassette I could see that all the drive side outer spokes has chunks or of them. <S> This was presumably where the chain ended up after smashing the plastic disc. <S> A new rear derailleur was needed as well as replacing all 9 damaged spokes. <S> I replaced them one at a time, keeping the wheel dished and fairly true, so only a little truing was needed. <S> This was before I ever built a wheel. <S> Getting something caught in the derailleur could have caused this. <S> I think mine was due to a stick <S> , I've heard of a crisp packet getting stuck in the cage and causing the same damage. <S> Another repair option if you like the bike is to buy a similar cheap second hand one (which doesn't have to fit you, but the components have to be compatible) and take parts off it. <A> Sure you can replace spokes yourself. <S> You also need a way to remove your freewheel. <S> However a rim that permits the spoke nipple to pull through the metal sounds extremely sketchy. <S> I would not ride that rim. <S> Your rear mech is stuffed. <S> It will never work right again, so other than salvaging the lower parts of another derailleur, replacement is your best option. <S> I also see a freewheel not a cassette, so this is either a really old bike or a BSO. <S> I'm leaning toward BSO because of the visible disk brake rotor. <S> UPSHOT <S> A decent used bike will probably cost about the same as a bike shop's total charge to fix that.
|
You also need to check the derailleur hanger isn't bent, if you fix the bike. Instead of pouring good money after bad, its time to look for a replacement bike. You will need the correct spokes and a spoke key that fits your nipples.
|
How to measure and treat BSA bottom bracket housing misalignment? I own an old Raleigh steel frame ('89) and wanted to install a cartridge bottom bracket (Shimano UN55). I noticed it was difficult to fit it in the housing. When installed, the square taper shaft showed considerably more friction when turned. Also, when I took the BB out again I saw rubbing marks on one side of the inner face of the lock ring, but only on one side. The threading itself is not damaged. When installing only one side of the BB, everything goes in smoothly. To me it looks as if the BB housing is somehow misaligned. How do I measure it? And how do I treat it? <Q> The threads on bottom bracket shells can have angular misalignment. <S> The threads are typically cut in two operations, one from each side. <S> If the shell is not aligned properly in the jig when the threads are cut misalignment is the result. <S> Misalignment should be fairly easy to diagnose at least. <S> Install the cartridge only from the drive side making sure to not cross thread it. <S> If you look at the non drive side you should be able to see if the body of the cartridge is centered in the shell on that side. <S> That will tell you if the drive side thread is aligned. <A> The two sides of a threaded shell showing axial or angular misalignment like this can usually be repaired by chasing and facing the shell with the normal procedure. <S> Essentially what's happening here is the cutter on its pilot makes a new path for the threads to clear up the effects of heat distortion. <S> One could contrive a scenario where the two sides' threads were machined out of alignment from the start, but in practice it's not very likely, and distortion from brazing/welding is almost always the culprit. <S> There aren't any real alternatives to a proper piloted BB tap/facer set here. <S> For most people it's going to be a shop fix. <S> Sometimes it's parroted that cartridge BBs made shell prep less important, but this is the counterpoint, as problems like this with mating the large amount of contact area between the cartridge and the adapter cup can keep the whole thing from working right. <A> It could be just cross-threaded, that is quite common. <S> Or it could also be misaligned. <S> If it is not way too off, facing the shells and tapping the threads (especially when cross-threaded) again might help. <S> An individual who does not built new bikes is unlikely have the tools, but it should be doable in your local bike shop. <S> These tools allow the threads to be well aligned. <S> It is not cutting each from one side separately but in a single process on a single common shaft.
|
You can also install the lockring and see if its flange lines up with the edge of the shell (this is not a great indicator of thread misalignment , because the edge of the shell may not be true).
|
Scratch or damage on carbon frame I found this 'scratch' on my carbon frame on top of the front derailleur. Not quite sure when or how it appeared. Could this be more than a scratch? <Q> That's just a light scratch. <S> No issues. <S> if you are worried that the carbon-fiber composite has been damaged by an impact or scratch, the abrasion is far too shallow for that. <S> It has not even penetrated through the paint. <S> It's not a crack because cracks do no start in the middle of frame tubes, they propagate from edges or holes. <A> If you saw my Stevens Team Carbon cyclocross frame you'd feel much better. <A> It's very unlikely to be a crack because it is the same width throughout (cracks tend to be wider in the centre, or at least irregular width) and because it is straight, not jagged. <S> The shallow depth is also a clue that it is a scratch. <S> You can shine a focussed flashlight into it and see if it reflects from the bottom. <S> If it does, then a scratch is the likely explanation. <S> A crack's ratio of depth to width is much larger, so it looks darker in the centre. <A>
|
Its a scratch you shouldn't be worried about it
|
Could a slightly bent rear mech cable be the cause of poor shifting? I have trouble indexing my SRAM Apex 1x drivetrain. If I get it to shift correctly at one end of the cassette, it doesn't shift so well at the other end.Sometimes I have to click multiple times at the DoubleTap shifter to make the rear mech move enough for the chain to jump to the next sprocket. I have tried the usual, first of all the chain tension barrel adjuster at the rear of the mech. Also, I have tried removing the cable from the mech, changing the tension.And fiddling with the B and limit screws. To no avail. For context, the drivetrain has recently been moved from a few years old bike to a brand new frame by a seasoned bike mechanic. Could a slightly bent rear mech cable under the BB be the cause of the poor shifting (see photo)? And if so, can something be done about it - other than replacing the cable? <Q> No, the 'bent cable' is not causing the problem. <S> As soon as the shifter pulls the cable the tension of the derailleur springs will straighten it out. <S> It may be slightly bent when first installed but should straighten out in a short time. <S> The excessive slack you have in that cable indicates something is adjusted incorrectly. <S> Presumably the derailleur is on the smallest sprocket and is resting on the high limit rather than being controlled by the cable and shifter. <S> That would mean your indexing adjustment is off. <S> I'd work through a rear derailleur setup process to fix that problem first. <S> The Park Tool Rear Derailleur article and video is has a very clear step by step process. <A> If it's not excess slack then hanger alignment is always the first suspect. <S> While avoidable, it's easy to have this happen with Doubletap levers by nature of how you install cables into them, especially if existing tape is being left in place. <A> Problem solved! <S> After having replaced both the bent cable and the cassette, the shifting was still causing trouble. <S> It turned out it was shortened too much: Only a three link overlap (measuring by routing the chain over the biggest sprocket and the chainring bypassing the rear mech). <S> SRAM recommends a four link overlap . <S> After having replaced the chain and added a five link overlap (one of them being the PowerLock), the shifting is now nearly flawless!
|
The bends in the cable you can see shouldn't cause problems, but seeing them on a Doubletap bike makes me instantly suspicious of kinks inside the housings, which will wreck the shifting. If that does not improve your indexing, the next thing to look at is the derailleur hanger alignment. But then I checked the chain length.
|
Help in converting Trek Domane 2.0 road bike to be more comfortable and commute-friendly I have pudendal neuralgia issues which require that I use a noseless saddle (not shown in pic) which works great for relieving pelvic floor pain. The result, though, is that much weight then is placed on the arms and so I'm battling sore hands and wrists after being on the bike for 45 minutes or more. I've got the standard drop bars with the top part of the bars wrapped in double foam tape so its as soft and wide as possible but it just doesn't do enough and it really just seems that the only solution is to reduce the angle of my upper body so that I'm substantially more upright. I'm about 6'-0 and this is a 58 cm frame. I don't think raising or shortening the stem a few centimeters is going to be enough change. I think the only hope is to replace the handlebars with a some other handlebar pattern (or add-on) that might allow a range of positions including ones that might be 3-6" higher than the current top bar. Does anyone know of some that I could look at online? Not sure if this will make the bike unstable. The noseless saddle does cause a fair amount of instability now. I'm contemplating selling the bike and just getting something that will be comfortable enough to spend a couple hours of leisurely riding or commuting (any suggestions for <= $1000?) If you see a handlebar modification that might be possible without getting into replacing brakes and all cables (which I expect to be expensive) let me know. <Q> Regardless of the bar type you wind up with, the main way to raise the bars that much without swapping forks is via a steerer extender, which isn't safe to use with a carbon-steerered fork such as this, especially under a larger rider. <S> If you want the ability to go very tall, that means a steel steerer. <S> There are some carbon forks with them that would wouldn't be a horrible mismatch with the bike that exist for this kind of purpose. <S> Origin8 makes one. <S> Opinions are a little mixed about the viability of getting the kind of height you're talking about out of a steerer extender on an al steerer. <S> Usually manufacturers prescribe a spacer limit on such forks of no more than around 60mm and sometimes less, and I personally have never seen any reason why it makes sense to cheat that number using a steerer extender, as the resultant problems with excess leverage on the steerer will be the same. <S> Again as a taller rider, I don't think this is a reasonable approach. <S> There is not a way to do any of this without re-cabling the bike unless the current cables and housings happen to all be way too long. <S> Also, few if any of the bar types that would make sense for your situation use drop-bar type controls like you have, which is another major expense of switching. <S> Unless you need to be on a road bike, I would look at getting something like an Elektra Townie, or a recumbent if you could find one where the seat ergonomics work. <A> This is a racing bike. <S> It not designed for a couple of hours of leisurely riding or commute, but long and fast rides and people who are used to such rides. <S> My recommendation would be to sell this one and buy something more suitable for your needs. <A> Thanks for all your answers. <S> My motives for posting were somewhat mixed. <S> I did originally purchase the Domane for training in the hills and maybe even some bike touring. <S> It was sized correctly at a bike store but <S> the minute I pulled out my Hobson saddle <S> , they balked and kind of disowned the whole sizing effort. <S> They pointed to regular nosed seats with the usual slot cut through. <S> I've tried several of these <S> and they just don't work. <S> When you have serious nerve issues down there, the solution is NOTHING in contact with it. <S> But you'd be surprised how much control you exert over the bike by using your inner thighs and pelvic floor for support and guidance. <S> So stability is jeopardized and then more weight is immediately placed through the arms. <S> It doesn't all go into the sits bones. <S> As one poster pointed out - I probably should be on a recumbant bike. <S> There are a lot of fairly steep hills around here and also a lot of sport cyclists. <S> I never see recumbant bikes around here and figure that they probably can't maintain balance so easily when speed drops way down up long steep hills. <S> Maybe I'm wrong about this? <S> So I kind of lost hope in going out for a couple hours and riding fast in the hills. <S> Now I'm thinking more along the lines of going for a decent mountain bike trail ride every now and then and commuting to work with bike a few times per week. <S> For commuting I thought maybe I could convert this Domane if I could just get some handlebars that allow for upright seating. <S> Even if I could, I see that all the cables have little slack and the brake levers aren't going to be a good fit on a bar with a very different geometry. <S> So I've put the bike for sale and will look into one of those electras. <A> Have you seen a bike fitter? <S> If you can do 45 minutes right now I don’t think you need drastic measures to go to two hours or more. <S> A few millimeters of saddle position change could be all you need. <S> Some people ride extremely angled saddles in aggressive road bike positions without any issues. <S> Soft and wide bar tape could actually be counterproductive since it can put pressure on nerves and blood vessels. <S> You could try bike gloves which have the padding where you actually want it. <S> They could also help when riding on the hoods, which is where you should spend most of your time.
|
You can extend the handlebars higher and try to install wider tires, but you will still have handlebars way too forward, steering geometry that feels unstable and narrower tires than you need. And, you're right to look in the direction of other bar types, because it's unlikely you're going to be able to make much use of the drops no matter what, at which point drop bars make little sense. It also looks like the frame might be a bit too big for you.
|
Options for adding lower gearing for bike with Shimano 105 drivetrain I have a 2015 Salsa Vaya 2 with a Shimano 105 drivetrain. It has a Shimano 105 Triple front derailleur with a 30/42/52t crankset. In the back it has an 11-30T 10-speed cassette (installed for me by the LBS instead of the stock 11-28T one). I was told at the time that I can't get a lower-geared cassette on this bike. Now I'd like to get into some light touring, and want to lower the gearing for climbing with load. What are my options? I see some 105 cassettes with larger big cogs (e.g. 11-34 11-speed). Can I just drop one in? Do I need a different rear derailleur, a new shifter, or any other parts to ensure things work? <Q> There are a couple of parameters you need to pay attention to: <S> The rear derailleur's wrap capacity (how much chain it can wrap up) <S> The biggest gear the rear derailleur can fit under. <S> With your current setup, your derailleur needs to wrap 41 teeth of chain. <S> It looks like you've got this derailleur , which can wrap 37 teeth and fit under a 32-tooth gear. <S> So you're already beyond capacity in terms of wrap, but if you don't cross-chain <S> , it's probably not a big deal. <S> You could probably get away with a 34-tooth bottom gear by adjusting the B screw on the derailleur ( <S> the one pointing straight back, under the hanger) to push the derailleur down. <S> The current generation of 105 medium-cage derailleurs is designed to fit under a 34-tooth bottom gear and handle 39 teeth of wrap. <A> Sounds like you're at the limits of what your bike can go to in terms of low gearing. <S> Other things to try are more into technique: <S> try pacing your climbs better. <S> With a large load you will have a longer time up any given grade, so also develop your endurance to sustain an approximate effort at a lower average output for the duration. <S> Avoid the inside of a hairpin bend - some of those can be extreme. <S> Just be aware of other road traffic. <S> If there's no traffic you can also reduce the effective grade by wiggling back and forth across the grade, though this means more turns and can't be safe with traffic. <S> lighten your load - look at the heaviest things you're taking and see what you can do to make them lighter. <S> Can you camp under a fly not a full tent? <S> Do you need canned food or can you go with dehydrated? <S> Or can you buy food at the destination? <S> Do you need to carry a cooker? <S> go a flatter route with touring, its not about the speed. <S> You don't have to take the fastest direct route. <S> Consider taking a longer route with less elevation change, or takes longer to rise. <S> The best answer in my opinion, is to simply get out there and ride it . <S> If you end up walking the steepest parts, well its still type2 fun and <S> you'll get up it. <S> Just allow yourself as much daylight as possible. <S> Wear flat shoes, not clipless, or at least take some with you. <A> Your shifters and derailluers will only work with 9 spd. <S> Something that might not be obvious is that with small gears, small changes make a much bigger difference. <S> The diffence between 24t and 26t in the front is nearly 10%. <S> It's about getting a gear that allows you to go up the climbs w/o going into the red zone. <S> I'd also suggest going to 39/50 chainrings. <S> 26/39/50 will be much smoother. <S> Another crank option in the front is to switch to a 110 BCD triple and the standard 24/36/48 touring setup. <S> Since you've already spend some $$ on upgrading the rear cassette, this would be my recommended solution. <S> I think you'll enjoy the range of gears this gives you much more, this is the crankset that bike should have come with out of the box. <S> Second is switching to a 12-36 or 11-34 9 speed rear cassette. <S> There are two options to shift this properly. <S> Get a 9 speed MTB long cage rear derailleur, this will work fine with your 9 spd 105 brifters. <S> Shimano still sells 9spd MTB gear as replacement parts. <S> ( I haven't tried the 12-36 with this combo.) <A> You have 9 speed shifters, you're constrained to a 9 speed cassette. <S> Your 30:30 combo is 27.0 gear inches now. <S> a 32 tooth would give you 25.3 gear inches, and a 34 tooth would give 23.8 gear inches. <S> (High gears are 73.6, 103.1, 127.6 gear inches assuming 11 tooth) <S> If you want to spend up and fit an internally-geared hub with a tensioner, this will let you use your front mech still. <S> A Shimano Alfine 11 will give ranges in gear inches from 21.3 to 87 on the 30 tooth 29.9 to 122 on the 42 tooth 37.0 to 151 on the 52 tooth chainring, when using a 20 tooth rear drive cog. <S> Downside, this is not a cheap solution. <S> Or you could go a Rohloff for even greater costs which would be 11.3 to 60 gear inches on the 30 tooth, through to 19.6 to 103 on the 52 tooth.
|
Buy a Wolftooth roadlink, this will allow your current rear mech to shift an 11-34 try lessening the grade by taking uphill corners relatively wide. There are several options for lower gears. Unless you want to replace most of your drivetrain you should stick with 9 speed components. You will need some kind of chain catcher to avoid dropping the chain and upshifting from 26 to the current 42 will not be as smooth as shimano normal. The first and easiest is to replace the 30t inner ring with a 26t one.
|
How should I route the front derailleur cable on a bike without lugs or guides? I have just realised that the old touring frameset I bought has doesn't have routing lugs for the front derailleur cable. The downtube and the top of the right-hand chainstay have lugs for the rear derailleur cable. For the other one, nothing. There's no bolt-hole underneath the bottom bracket to mount a guide either. It's a steel Dawes Galaxy. I suppose I could drill a hole underneath the bottom bracket to mount a guide, but I'm puzzled how the cable would have originally been run. <Q> Either Adam's suggestion or this <S> Some not super recent mountain FDs have stops for full housing too. <S> If it would play nice with whatever you're building the bike back up with, one of those options plus a bolt-on housing stop as pictured is the cleanest-looking match with what you've got, although it does have the downside that upwards opening housings are bad news in general because they invite water contamination. <S> Most functional would be adding a nylon BB guide as you say, although not very aesthetic since having <S> a top mounted chainstay stop marries you to the RD cable guide you've got. <S> I believe there have been a handful of old front derailleurs with weirdo integrated cable guides that reach all the way down. <S> To my awareness these are all super low end, and I wasn't able to find a picture. <S> I don't know much about Dawes <S> but I doubt this what it came with, and <S> it's likely not worth pursuing now. <A> <A> If you say that there aren't any cable stops for front derailleur, originally it might have had this type of the derailleur: <S> This is not a direct answer to your question, however if you try to restore your bike and bring her back to the original condition it might be the way to go.
|
: If you're going with a very recent FD, like all the Shimano toggle ones and many mountain FDs in general, a lot of them have integrated stops also, so you could do the same sort of routing. It might have had a guide that clamped to the downtube, just above the bottom bracket like this , although if the chainstay cable-stop is on the bottom, perhaps not.
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.