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Acne Studios
|
spring-2016-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,016
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Jonny Johansson indulged his personal passions as he went about gestating this Acne collection. It started with his growing yen for surfing, an intoxication stirred on the wind-raised waves near his summer house, which formerly belonged to Ingmar Bergman. Through surfing, he came across Robin Kegel, a Californian-born, Biarritz-based surfer who cuts his own hair and shapes his own boards. Kegel's longboard decals provided the prints that flickered in and out of this show, while the rest of it—especially the platforms—arrived via Johansson's guitar playing and his fondness for the New York Dolls. The only thing preventing the connection between Kegel and the Dolls feeling utterly arbitrary was Johansson's keenness on both. Kegel's hairstyle, all blunt-scissored terraces of copper, worked well on the models' wigs. The colors—pistachio, pink, and yellow—were an adroit mix of surf and pre-punk. With its Johnny Thunders platforms, ribbed cashmere dresses, and romper suits, the collection tapped into menswear's current fixation with gender fluidity—especially when teamed with the brand's as-yet-unchristened man bag.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 27, 2015
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 200
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||
Acne Studios
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/acne-studios
| 2,016
|
resort
|
From a cavernous gallery near the Bastille, Jonny Johansson explained how, as Acne Studios matures as a brand, the clothes need not necessarily chart the same course. Which is to say, he doesn't want to lose the naïveté. He then pointed to works by cubist Albert Gleizes and postmodern artist Mario Schifano—both found in the aspirational Rizzoli tome on Marella Agnelli—as fundamental to the Resort collection's expressive attitude.By the time the first model emerged from a mixed-media installation (a cross between kindergarten and Arte Povera), her bonded linen and poplin trench, accented with a stiff, stand-away storm flap and pockets, seemed far more sophisticated than Johansson's lead-up. And because he holds such high regard for fabric and fabrication, the collection largely stayed that way, whether it was the effortlessly tailored robe coat in contrasting wallpaper stripes or the knotted paperweight suede skirt. Even the collaged viscose shapes patched onto an organza base required precise craftsmanship; of the orange strip running across both trouser legs, Johansson noted dryly, "It was easier to sketch than produce."But if the rusty red leather coat was unapologetically grown-up, the collection elevated certain nostalgic '90s throwbacks—those stretchy tattoo chokers now in metal, tear-away shorts in leather—to play up the fun. Add in the eccentric touches—the frayed fabric monk shoes, the fabric-blocked smock tops, and the spray-paint-effect stenciling atop floral printed silk—and you ended up with a collection well matched for art-fair-hopping. Someone might even comment that the hot pink lining peeking out from a slashed striped dress calls to mind Arte Povera's Lucio Fontana.
|
Amy Verner
|
June 18, 2015
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 201
|
|||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Where designers in New York were grappling with the current political climate, many in Paris have been yearning for more innocent times, including Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson. His artistic reference point this season was especially telling; he was inspired by the finger puppets that Paul Klee, the renowned Swiss-German artist, made for his son back in the mid-1910s and 1920s. He’s not the first to draw on a homespun naïveté. In fact, a more hand-hewn and imperfect idea of femininity has been percolating in fashion for the last few seasons.At Acne Studios, it played out with long deconstructed linen dresses in earth tones that were cut along a skewed asymmetric line. That intentional off-kilter aesthetic came off a little derivative at times, though it had a fresher feeling when it was spliced with more optimistic floral prints. Johansson has always enjoyed experimenting with proportions, often testing the limits of the body with blown-up, extra-big silhouettes. He toyed with the conventions of tailoring this time around, another big theme of the season, and pinstriped blazers were turned back-to-front and extended to the floor. It was the more whimsical takes on executive realness, however, that hit the mark here, including a cropped floral jacket that was layered over crinkly pants, and a tunic in a matching fabric. The designer tends to have big ideas in the accessories department as well, and the irregular hoop earrings, which were made from clay and came dangling with charms, were a nice update on the brutalist jewelry trend and had a cool gallery-girl vibe to them.Though Acne Studios often looks to the rarefied world of art for direction, the roots of the brand are in the street and started with denim. The closest thing to jeans on the runway today, however, was a pair of indigo blue and white striped pants. Now that the high fashion hoodie has reached saturation point, the move towards a more grown-up aesthetic is surely a sign of the times, one that is also resonating with formerly denim-centric brands such as Off-White and Marques' Almeida. Taken apart, there were pieces that had an uncomplicated, playful appeal—geometric tinted sunglasses and cozy sweaters with polka dots that were streaming with thread—just the kind of cheery pick-me-ups we can all use in dark times.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
March 4, 2017
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 202
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,017
|
menswear
|
fall
|
Jonny Johansson is the winner of this menswear’s Finest Inspiration award. Why? Because the oversize silhouettes at this morning’s Acne Studios presentation were, he said, inspired by “Keanu Reeves’s swollen face.” Don’t fret, Keanu; Johansson meant that in a good way—swollen with beauty in your youthful pomp. This was just one delight in a presentation fairly brimming with them. While we sat in the lecture hall of a beautiful old medical school, a French professor ran through a slideshow of self-portraits in art history, from Rembrandt to Otto Dix to Kafka—and occasionally made provocative assertions about the selfie generation in an accent so melted gruyère it was impossible to entirely discern.Johansson, who was situated at the back of the class, said he’d been thinking about business tropes of ’80s menswear and the masculine urge to fetishize detail—so geekiness basically. The result was a collection walked by its models onto a tiled table that was presumably once used as a slab for cadavers under study by aspiring French doctors. It consisted of some almost parodic ensembles of ’80s formal tribes subjected to the swollen-Keanu treatment. The first look was a gray pinstripe peak lapelled jacket ballooned by the neoprene within, to excessive proportions, worn over incongruously skinny pants and wedge sneakers whose pastel paneling complemented the teal body of the white collared shirt above. A pink cashmere sweater under a mint high-necked fine gauge knit above some wide but tapering blue pants, held fast by a felted belt-suspender combo, looked very back-then Giorgio Armani. The embroidered hounds on a pale green knitted zipped shirt with an oversize collar were an Acne Studios-fied take on Brooks Brothers prep. And the swollen camel coat over another camel coat and camel zip-up looked like a loving but irreverent re-rendering of Max Mara, perhaps the greatest brand in all of fashion that should make menswear and doesn’t.There is no belittling meant in mentioning these other designers, by the way: Johansson was riffing on a decade whose style they were fundamental in shaping; seeing them here so clearly just meant he was getting it right.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 21, 2017
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
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| 203
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Acne Studios
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/acne-studios
| 2,017
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pre-fall
|
The photos might have given initial cause for confusion: HasAcne Studiosopted to combine its men’s and women’s collections as other brands are doing? Or is the male model wearing the women’s pre-collection? Wait, is that Bobby Gillespie?Indeed, the Swedish label featured the 54-year-old post-punk singer (also recognized among fashion people as the husband of super-stylist Katy England) in half of its Pre-Fall looks (model Angelica Erthal took on the rest). This wasn’t, however, a gimmicky exercise in wardrobe sharing—even though he happens to look marvelously debauched and debonair in the double-breasted velvet jacket and slim trousers. This is what results when Acne Studios’s Jonny Johansson thinks subversively about wearable clothes, subsequently inviting the artist to play an interpretation of himself. “As I was finalizing this collection, I realized I had designed a look for Bobby Gillespie,” explained Johansson in a statement, as he was unable to make the trip this time. And Gillespie doesn’t just wear the clothes—he assumes them with sardonic verve. In a draped azure satin evening dress inspired by a barbershop cape, he conjures up a disenchanted gospel singer.But just because these ’70s pieces with their charismatic accents were designed with Gillespie in mind doesn’t distract from their intention for the rest of us. Johansson is a big believer in an elongated silhouette for Pre-Fall—obvious as a leather trench or unexpected as a vintage-inspired print dress over a caftan. It’s a persuasive look. Fans of the brand’s denim should prepare to add the pair embroidered with flowers and bees to their closets. Come to think of it, the real stars of this collection were all of the pooling corduroy pants.
|
Amy Verner
|
January 18, 2017
|
Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 204
|
|||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Acne Studioscreative director Jonny Johansson isn't one for political fashion statements, preferring to make clothes that reflect experiences in his inner world. Given the current state of global events, however, it's almost impossible not to feel personally affected. The refugee crisis continues to dominate the conversation in Europe, and prompted Johansson to look for inspiration outside the borders of his native Sweden, toward the rich textile traditions of the countries where many have been displaced. The distinctive geometric motifs commonly found in Arabic nations, including Syria, were woven throughout the collection, with hefty sweater dresses that looked like they might have been cut from hand-knotted byzantine rugs, and kaftans that appeared like a patchwork of the scarves worn by nomadic tribes in the Sahara.The oversize shapes and workwear silhouettes Johansson used to play out his references were far closer to the brand’s roots; a wise move on his part. In fact, it felt like the baggy dungarees and cropped denim pants embroidered with tonal paisley motifs were a return to the brand's core tenets: Lest we forget that the label used to have the word jeans in its name.Johansson enjoys experimenting with extreme proportions, and the robe coats and jackets that were finished with utilitarian trimmings struck the right chord. The extensive selection of extra-thick, supersize sweaters and jumpers didn’t quite hit the mark, though, and would be tough to pull off for non-models. Those pieces tended to weigh down the offering, along with the sculptural wooden heels. Still, accessory magpies won’t be disappointed with the embellished lace-up slippers and the great paisley-printed shoulder bags. Jane Birkin, who sat front row next to New York rapper Mykki Blanco and French musician Soko, was pretty impressed; she was among the first to congratulate Johansson on the show. If her track record with accessories is anything to go by, then Acne Studios could be on to a winner.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
October 1, 2016
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 205
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2017-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,017
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Jonny Johansson, creative director ofAcne, masterminded a strange and interesting game of musical chairs in the romantically ravaged interior of the Lycée Charlemagne. Every 60 seconds or so, the PA would stop pumping and his models would get up and pull their metal-legged chairs here and there across the floor before sitting down again once the tunes resumed. At first sight they appeared to be wearing tents, or at least something tentatively tent-ish of aspect, and that proved to be the case. Said Johansson: “It’s very simple. It’s about the emptiness of the Swedish summer . . . I think it’s quite romantic in a way. I wanted to have romance in a show but without the regular runway thing.”We walked down the hall between them, adjusting conversational volume in sync with the DJ, as Johansson delivered an exegesis of the huge A-line ponchos that were the defining garment of the collection. “They are inspired by tents, old-fashioned tents,” he said. The silver eyelets pressed in at the top of the spine were peg-ready, and the variously laminated, plasticized and bonded fabrics sometimes had the realistic look and feel of well-used tarp. Others were shiny and came in shirting stripes. They flared out widely from the body, tentlike, of course, with particular volume at the back. Completing the campsite capsule was a selection of shoes that ran from coated Chelsea boots to surf booties to rubberized Mary Janes. Zip-away techno jersey pants and shorts in plain color provided cover. Vests and tops in tablecloth checks and stringy bouclé, plus woven hemp shirts and tees (with matching shorts) in a neutral wheaty tone delivered texture. One especially striking knitted vest came with hand-painted flecks of green and orange fluoro, which competed winningly with the oaty texture of the yarn. Nostalgic, avant-garde, and Swedish, this was Acne all over.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 25, 2016
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
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| 206
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Acne Studios
|
resort-2017
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/acne-studios
| 2,017
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resort
|
Thanks to three days of unrelenting rain in Paris, the color-bleeding and -dyeing techniques that appeared on various pieces of theAcne StudiosResort collection seemed uncannily apropos, as if a slip dress, slouchy utilitarian ensemble, and deconstructed tank had been subjected to the elements leading up to the presentation. But a tête-à-tête with creative director Jonny Johansson revealed the real sequence of events: that his increasing devotion to surfing led to an interest in the Grateful Dead and, in turn, the concept of how the daughter of a Deadhead might interpret the subculture’s idiosyncratic look. Freely admitting he didn’t listen to the band during its golden age, Johansson clarified how the next-gen narrative allowed him to keep the collection in, shall we say, the hear and now. While an onstage attitude often registered in the styling—amping up a black side-belted, draped dress with plongé “harness” gloves, aka supple leather arm stockings—the general vibe aligned with Johansson’s pursuit of fluidity and softened volumes. Whereas one jacket was puffed up with a crinoline underpinning, another was opened up, barely held together with hook-and-eye closures. The crinolines appeared elsewhere, their exposed layers of cotton and linen like a rebellious attempt at historical femininity. Skin, by contrast, was rarely exposed, more often hidden behind a flattened duvet dress, bunched motocross pants, or rearranged asymmetric layers.Johansson noted how all the hand-bleaching, oil-printing, and tie-dyeing returned the studio to its DIY beginnings. But in the spirit of keeping things contemporary, the effects were rendered extra trippy by way of digital scanning. “That’s what makes things interesting for us—we’re not going back,” said Johansson. By the time the 19 models had assumed a seated mise-en-scène within the Musée des Beaux-Arts, it was clear that Acne Studios was making a concerted effort not to be basic. Those who find the key pieces too specific—too psychedelic, too youthful—can still feed their brand fandom with clog sandals; a new bag with interchangeable straps; and the Deadhead-inspired jewelry, which includes skull drop earrings in semiprecious stone skulls and finger and toe rings in glossy enamel.
|
Amy Verner
|
June 1, 2016
|
Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 207
|
|||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
Of all the designers moving from regular Fashion Week to the haute couture, the switch by Acne Studios to show its women’s collection might be the most convincing and believable. That’s not intended as criticism of the others who’ve decamped to this slot on the fashion calendar, and it’s certainly not because Acne’s Jonny Johansson fancies himself ready to take on the daunting, double-trouble challenge ofle tailleurandle flou, the twin pillars of the couture. As he put it in a pre-show backstage chat, “We’re not trying to get the limelight of the couture, or to disturb it in any way.” Johansson explained further: “It’s quite a bold decision from a business perspective, but from a life perspective, it’s an important choice. I love fashion, but I can’t keep up with these long, long, long seasons. We’ve gone backwards; now we do one collection that contains a wardrobe, that we always do obviously, with some spice, and that’s it.” So now he shows his men’s in Paris as usual, and his women’s a matter of days, rather than many weeks, later.If that sense of life choice explicitly influenced his decision, a lifting of the eyes away from the grindstone for just a minute to think about ways to deal with the industry’s ceaseless desire to always be showing you’re doing something,anything, then the sense of re-prioritizing also factored into the collection itself. Johansson has watched as friends and colleagues have chosen to move away from urban environments to live in the countryside. “And they come back looking amazing, great skin, relaxed,” he said, laughing. It’s a zeitgeist-y, don’t-we-all-feel-it-right-now yearning that he’s caught here, much in the same way as Acne’s recent ad campaign starring Atlanta couple Kordale Lewis and Kaleb Anthony with their ridiculously adorable kids celebrated what family means in the 21st century.This then was the Swedish label’s ode to the rural idyll, to reconnecting to a quieter, less incessant rhythm of life, and what resulted felt romantic, comforting, and rich in spirit, and with a cool whiff of the early ’90s; not grunge, but more the downbeat beauty of Corinne Day shooting Cecilia Chancellor in a field. Wind-beating, weathered trenchcoats snapped over crumpled silken polka-dot print trousers or cuffed leather crop pants. There were terrific bias-cut, pintucked, floral-sprigged dresses that looked like they’d been left out to dry in the wind and the sun, some partnered with metallic and ever-so-slightly kitschy floral shirts, haphazardly buttoned to trail from the shoulders. And there were plenty of the great coats that Acne Studios has proven itself to be so adept at these past few seasons, too; the label is based in light- and heat-challenged Sweden, so practice has clearly made perfect here. Next Fall’s standouts: the floor-length fake fur and wool-paneled looks, or a leaf-strewn print on an oversize blanket-wool piece tied at the waist with an oversize shoestring. Do try this styling trick at home. Or in the country. You know, either will work.
|
Mark Holgate
|
January 24, 2018
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 208
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,018
|
menswear
|
fall
|
To see fashion through a child’s eyes Jonny Johansson recruited a team of children to sketch this collection. Backstage after his crowded show-presentation hybrid, he explained that a group of school kids up to 14-years-old had delivered some drawings of clothes, whose naivety he had worked to integrate into the real ones. “It was a quest for pure creativity,” he said.The work of these young brand consultants was evidently reflected in a 2-D felted gray V-neck T-shirt and in an opening sweater in a felted red on green wool whose elongated arms looked beguilingly both innocent and impractical. The same goes for the rustically applied woolen stars and rockets placed upon the chests of some fine-gauge knit sweaters. Oversize pants in an attractive abstract jacquard had a distinctive double pintuck crease on the outside of each leg, by coincidence a detail also seen at Ermenegildo Zegna this season. There were a few particularly lovely pieces, including some diamond-knit sweaters in mustard or bordeaux overlaid with startling wavy lines of pink and blue, respectively, and a pared-down duffle coat in blue whose shoulder patch was that same many-yarned jacquard. The duffle was both distinctive and fresh. Golden threads, some chewed pensively by models backstage, acted as jewelry. The presentation was a little flawed, but the collection was highly enjoyable.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 19, 2018
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
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| 209
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Acne Studios
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The runway at Acne Studios was shrouded with an enormous translucent shower curtain this afternoon. And as models hit the catwalk dressed in sugary pastel colors, the effect was something like looking inside a frosted jar of sherbet candy. That through a glass darkly conceit was merely temporary, though, and it wasn’t long before the plastic drapes were lifted on the brand’s Spring 2018 collection.According to creative director Jonny Johansson, the show’s dramatic opener was a way to replicate the vantage point of an outsider. “I’ve always felt that I’ve been a bit apart from the system, and really, the collection was about exploring that idea,” he said backstage. Johansson summed up the inspiration in less conceptual terms as “thrift shop on acid.” There’s been a resurgence in secondhand nostalgia, and Acne’s version of it had a ’70s groove.Saturday Night Feversuiting abounded, with sexy satin blouses covered with a python print or tinged with zingy shades of lime and mint green. Traditional pinstripes were also given the disco treatment, with fine strands of metal fringing swinging along the lines of tailored trousers and pants. It was a nice way to whisk 9-to-5 dressing off into the night.There were beach references that surfaced at the party as well. Johansson was inspired by the surfers of Biarritz, where he often vacations—hence, the shiny Hawaiian shirts and mesh polo tops. Like many designers right now, he’s been rethinking the notion of customization. Washed, over-dyed, then hand embroidered with thousands of sequins, the glittering jean shirt that was paired with a fringed crochet dress came with lots of glamour and personality. It also brought Johansson’s mission statement for the brand full circle, back to more humble beginnings: denim.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
September 30, 2017
|
Jonny Johansson
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 210
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2018-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,018
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Was this the wrong door? As you walked into Acne Studios today you found yourself backstage. Nobody ushered you out, but just encouraged you down past the emptied rails and hanging look boards. There was the sound of applause beyond the stage wall. Wait, was this even a show—had it started?“One, two, three, go!” said the headset-guy to the guest in front of you. Ahh! We were the models. Once past his counted prompt you turned a corner onto a raised catwalk with a line of Paris’s osteopathic tragedy circus chairs alongside, on which sat the models wearing Jonny Johansson’s Acne Studios collection. We watched them and they watched us, occasionally rising to applaud when the music faded out.To be truly authentic, it was put to Johansson, the models should not have applauded us but instead taken desultory pictures on their phones and looked around for the door. “Ah! You’ve stolen the setup for the next season!” he replied.The collection on the models was, he said, based on the idea of transitioning from a sweaty city to the Swedish summerhouse—the clapboard family-owned structures dotted around that country’s gorgeous archipelago of islets and islands. “I wanted a general mood of sensitivity, something romantic,” he added: “These are times that everybody is dressed in hoods—urban apocalyptic, likeMad Max—but for me it was important to show something beautiful, inspiring maybe, without being pretentious.”Johansson’s signature oversize summer outerwear was cut in chiffon or linen in pale blue and deep red—shades named in Swedishfalurodanddalablarespectively, the release said—and accompanied by matching superwide pants you couldn’t really see the drape of because the models were seated. Crochet tank tops and some narrower-cut outerwear and suiting came with naive stitching details derived, Johansson said, from typical mumsy Swedish cushions. The slingback sandals and slippers were especially nice, in fish scale–print leather or stiff fine-mesh crochet. As Johansson finished riffing on his summerhouse fantasy the models rose again and applauded: overkill, guys.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 24, 2017
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 211
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||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,019
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The staging for the Acne Studios show began as an elevated ledge that followed the curved wall of a gallery within the Palais de Tokyo. Once models reached the end, they descended a few steps to arrive at the main runway. Not all seats had the full view, but the setup was significant as far as supporting Jonny Johansson’s concept this season—essentially, high fashion from the perspective of young people. “All the power dressing that I consider iconic womenswear, maybe they are attracted to it too but in a different way,” he explained backstage. And thus, on high and at a distance, the looks projected sharply defined silhouettes and an attitude to match; up close they revealed subversions that were destabilizing yet persuasive.Seemingly oversize pants took on new form when cinched at the waist and tucked into slouch socks; equally standout were the coats that remained beautifully rounded in the shoulders and sleeves while boasting buttons down the back. A sophisticated damask in bright colors became as bold a statement as any streetwear signaling. Experiments in draping, smocking, and ruching dialed up the sex appeal of certain dresses in a way that felt unfamiliar to Acne Studios but was certainly not unwelcome.Carry this thought through to the rectangle bras and hand-draped nylon stockings—their very visibility, whether under a leather jacket or from the slit of a dress, would determine those who would identify with a look versus others who might feel intimidated by it. But Johansson suggested he’s no longer courting youth, simply curious to occupy their headspace. “I think I’ve changed, and now I’m more interested in the academic side, like what time does to fashion.” As in? A Helmut Newton photograph, he replied, where a detail as seemingly minor as a pair of pumps has the capacity to register as relevant all over again, or maybe even for the first time, depending on perspective. Pumps, needless to say, were added to this collection—and amidst the irregularly shaped trussed boots, they held the power.
|
Amy Verner
|
January 20, 2019
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 212
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,019
|
menswear
|
fall
|
When it comes to his part in the fashion playground, Jonny Johansson said this afternoon that he always feels like a double outsider: “Because we’re from Stockholm, which is from way outside [the fashion world], plus I’m from the very north of Sweden, which is way outside even Stockholm.” For this Acne Studios collection, Johansson harnessed the advantage that provenance from the periphery affords: fresh perspective.Here, he worked to mash together many disparate elements into a newly coalesced menswear proposition. Farming has been a pretty rare reference at the shows, but it was present today in tractor-soled, half-length rubber work boots reimagined in leather; a flecked pale work jacket with a strapped satin utility pouch; and cow-print trenchcoats. He touched on late-mid-century bohemia and counterculture in the psychedelic swirl vests; superlong snoods with even longer fringing; and the colored snake-effect trenches, shirt-jackets, and moto pants. Shirts worn above high-waisted leather pants with carpenter’s pockets were semi-sheer and patterned with distressed chevrons in Lurex that Johansson had drawn from vintage soccer jerseys; these sometimes resembled Arsenal’s immortal “bruised banana” stripe of the 1990s.There was stretch suiting in textured jersey, some nice long coats in soft velvet in hard colors (the pale, pale pistachio looked especially strong), fitted pants and tightly darted shorts in top-to-toe finely lined brown with lavender topstitching, and super-oversize work shirting. Pants featured vibrantly lined pockets that could be worn open on the hip, as they were in this show, but were also built to function when fastened at one side by hook and eye to the waistband. Accessories included rugged fanny packs and necklaces hanging with hollowed silver globes, partially sliced, whose insides were colored to complement the garments they were worn with. Whatever he says, Johansson these days is as inside as it gets in fashion; that outsider eye, however, remains.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 16, 2019
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 213
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Long is the list of fashion designers who have created costumes for dance or theatrical performances. When a choreographer friend in Stockholm approached Jonny Johansson with a similar proposal, the Acne Studios cofounder and creative director recalled that he contemplated the idea before ultimately declining. How come? “First of all, I just know fashion; and second, I didn’t want to ruin his show.” Whatever the reasons, his research wasn’t for naught, as it turns out that the dancer-as-muse proved a dynamic fit for the Acne Studios aesthetic.Even without knowing that the brand’s Instagram had been taken over by Alice Renavand, a principal dancer from the Paris Opera Ballet, the influence was clear from the start: sheer and stretchy materials as a base for fluid layers or fitted leather bodices; bodysuits visible under jackets; and shoes that hybridized the familiar Acne babouches with a ballet slipper. All that graceful balletic vernacular was constantly exposed to a contemporary edit—and vice versa. See the scooped neckline of a top trimmed in macramé lace that had a whiff of Dégas’sPetite Danseuse, or the red leather bootleg pants that appearedtrèsAcne from the front while yielding ribbed leggings down the back. Things turned especially modern and meta through the placement of decades-old Merce Cunningham posters and dancer photos reduced to patches and placed onto ample outerwear or a linen jumpsuit as though fragmented scrapbooks. And of course, it was impossible to miss the many signs ofSwan Lake, whether as a swirling jacquard of swans or the birds as large crystal and paillette embroideries. A retro New York City Ballet T-shirt embellished with a pretty knit neckline felt emblematic of the entire inspirational exercise—something that a dancer takes from her closet and gives her own creative twist. The accessories—bandana bags, chain accessories loaded with charms, and futuristic sneaker sandals—seemed appropriated from her everyday look, dialed up with desirable edge.Postshow, Johansson said he envisioned the lineup as four acts: rehearsal, onstage, off-duty, and evening. This last grouping consisted of elegant, allover looks featuring the Palais Garnier plus old stage illustrations as an architectural spin on toile de Jouy. They, along with the tuxedo and black dress, bode well for what he mentioned as an interest to push the formal register going forward.By now, it should be pretty obvious that this was a diverse collection with excellent, inclusive styling; unlike the usual ballet tropes, there was no expectation of being 16 and a size zero. For every gal who falls for the furry black swan slippers, there will be an Isabelle Huppert–type woman (the estimable actress was seated next to this reviewer), already singling out certain sophisticated looks that would be worthy of any stage.
|
Amy Verner
|
July 1, 2018
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 214
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2019-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,019
|
menswear
|
spring
|
As I walked into this show, Bryan Grey Yambao (aka Bryanboy) gave me the up-and-down and observed, “I had no idea that men over 40 evenworeshorts.” Meow, Bry,meow! Even for those not blessed with the best legs in the influencer game, this was most definitely a show to be bare-legged in: It ran super-late and got as hot as Hades.Once it was under way, though, this new-to-runway outing for Acne Studios was gently experimental and occasionally excellent. As Jonny Johansson had explained preshow, “It’s an experiment with the definition of garments. We were looking at the archetypal constructions of one garment and applying them to another . . . I think a lot of shows are driven by categories, but if the perception of them is played with, you can make something interesting.”This translated into an opening blouson with inverted jean pockets and a jean waistband worn above fine-cotton pants with a subtle kick, as well as what looked like a trenchcoat with a purple polo shirt collar, and a field jacket elongated into a piece of full-length outerwear (great in orange). There was some good soft suiting in linen that came in that violent orange and a tantamount-to-luminous green; an interesting loose trouser tied at the right hip; plus an overcoat in a woven greenish yellow fabric that sported old-school curtain fringing at the hem: soft furnishing for him. Bags mixed webbing and nylon with what looked like a print, but Johansson said that the image of a lake in Sweden was in fact woven: an organic rendering of a digital image of a natural scene. There were also some excellent shorts.Afterward, Johansson, also over 40 and in shorts, took his bow to deserved applause. And, no, Bryan, I will not be going Prada short-short anytime this season. There are limits, and they start just above the knee.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 20, 2018
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 215
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,020
|
menswear
|
fall
|
So the good news is that on the evidence of this highly original Acne menswear collection, clothes design is not a human profession under threat from from AI anytime soon. The schtick was this: Jonny Johansson showed simultaneous fall 2020 women’s and menswear collections in a room beneath the Louvre. Although both collections were in the same space, a big, white wall split the runway so the showings were divided. My esteemed colleague and Louvre expert Amy Verner watched from the women’s side while I watched the men’s.Before the show(s), we did at least get the chance to gang up on Johansson and grill him on what seemed initially a pretentious gimmick as we ate all his backstage fruit. He explained that really, these shows are not the end product of the season, but mid-stage in a process that will see them combined in some project at a later date. The collections had been divided for reasons not entirely clear, but Johansson spoke ominously about a sense of shift on the horizon and an instinct to anticipate it somehow. He said: “We don’t know what’s coming next, we just know that something is coming.”Okay. So each side got a different treatment, and during the show(s) I could catch just a glimpse of the women’s offering via a gently moving mirrored ceiling that sometimes was at the right angle to show the top of the female models. They seemed to be wearing a lot of messed-up long velvet gowns.Over in the men’s half of the room was a collection that had been created in collaboration with a “generative artist” named Robbie Barrat, who writes algorithms to realize his projects. As far as I could tell Johansson had sanctioned the processing of all of Acne’s archives through Barrat’s algorithms to enable an AI-authored menswear collection. There was, I’m sure, plenty of artistic license left here, but running with the idea that this was a tech-authored collection, it was fun to consider whether this was the beginning of fashion Skynet.On the evidence of the first look, especially and much of the first section in general, AI is really, really poor at clothing design—unless its design is to embarrass man to death, in which case it is quite brilliant. The high white-and-tight pants and split-to-the-navel white meshed shirt of that first look were accessorized with a bag that carried as many compelling ideas as this lineup promised to present. With time, however, this collection warmed up a little. Perhaps the shocking start was just a glitch. There was a great Klein blue puffer jacket and some amusing miniaturized pool-toy accessories. A snake-print suit was not the worst of its kind. There were various distressed-knit tabard-y things of the type digested here before. The collection slowly learned from the lessons of past behavior and became pretty consistent with the Acne aesthetic—not surprising if you consider it was a math-crunched amalgam of all previous Acne Studio collections. This show felt like a conceit that had a tangible foundation but whose execution was considerably flawed. However, I’m certain that an AI Acne Studios–commissioned fashion show review algorithm (or indeed guest influencer) would say something very different.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 19, 2020
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 216
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,020
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
You wouldn’t know it from these photos, but the Acne Studios women’s and men’s collections took place together. Meaning, at the same time, in the same venue, with the same music. But instead of being shown together, they had been consciously uncoupled—separated by a featureless white wall running the length of the runway(s).This segregation of guests, who were either invited to one show or the other with no possibility of attending both, was somewhat a tease owing to a massive mirror overtop that regularly tilted back and forth, thus providing a partial, inverted view of what was on the other side while the collections played out. Spotted during one of these glimpses: a shirtless model, a fair amount of space-age white, and my colleague Luke Leitch.There we were, having completely different Acne Studios experiences based on collections that were completely different (Luke’s entertaining, acute review is worth a read). In fact, we learned that this would be the case shortly before when we shared a tête-à-tête with Jonny Johansson, who explained that the tension of simultaneous collections felt more compelling to him than a mixed lineup.“Fashion seems to be in this in-between moment, where it’s referring to history a lot and we’re trying to get to the future,” he said. But if gender fluidity is defining our present, isn’t the wall regressive? “The wall could also be going backwards because we don’t know what’s coming next, but something is coming,” he said.As if hedging his bets—and throwing off any synchronicity between the design teams—Johansson determined that the men’s direction would be forward while the women’s direction would look back (let’s avoid any temptation to read into this). More specifically, AI and algorithms contributed to the men’s designs, whereas Old Masters artworks and ornate, ornamental fabrics formed the basis of the women’s show. Beautiful jacquards, brocades, and velvets that might have otherwise been used for upholstery, theater curtains, or a mondaine’s corset were transformed into dramatic dress coats, cocoon-shaped tunics, and sumptuous suiting with edges frayed and tasseled to varying degrees of decadent distress. Pooling pants trimmed with similar techniques made for an alluring silhouette, especially as a coordinated look, but were essentially glorified dust brushes and a tripping hazard waiting to happen. A series of twisted tailored looks, including a leather coat painted with a faded scene of classical nudes, reiterated a certain unhinged, arty attitude that comes so naturally to Acne Studios. A body-contoured dress enhanced with a burnout treatment that traced the acanthus pattern was gorgeous in a way that transcended time. The notion of a frame bag took on new meaning with picture-frame pieces affixed as decoration.By the end, one hoped that the lineups might merge, or at least cross sides; and the fact that they didn’t probably had more to do with the incongruity of the collections than faithfulness to an experimental concept. Those on the men’s side would have seen what—and whom—they were missing (Robyn was in our front row). It was interesting to learn from Johansson that the team reworked couture forms to appear “non-modern, like ‘wrong’ fashion.” But as a coda to a week of elaborate men’s collections—and potentially as a precursor to the women’s collections next month—all this wrong looked rather right.
|
Amy Verner
|
January 19, 2020
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 217
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
If explorations of nature have come from all directions over the past few weeks, Acne Studios has now added another—and naturally, it has a Swedish slant. Backstage before the show, Jonny Johansson touched upon various evocative influences—escaping to the archipelagos, writer August Strindberg’s stormy seascape paintings, folkloric textiles from the National Museum—as laying the groundwork for a collection that swerved away from last season’s power-dressing message. “It’s less rigid; [it’s] treasured and loved in some way, and confident in that sense,” he said.Whether intentionally or not, it also played out as some sort of music-festival fever dream. The city aspect so emblematic to the brand became a dystopian countryside, where these characters scavenged and salvaged new wardrobes. Their looks appeared timeworn, homespun, and earthy yet somehow also luxurious: linen pants and coats foiled in gold, suede coats or dresses dotted with raindrop crystals. Layers were their leitmotif; large vests and shabby sweaters were shown over worn-in shirts; dresses and tunic knits shifted open over body-skimming underpinnings. Tactile embellishments sprouted up everywhere: random embroidery strands, charms along back belts, sandal straps loaded with Western buckles. One jacket stood out for its allover cracked effect; in fact, it was a fil coupe overprinted as a trompe l’oeil. Other trippy treatments included shirt pockets that became shadowy outlines, and bucket hats that had been sliced open and laced back together. For all this density of detail—simultaneously intricate and unhinged—these were still the same Acne girls who prefer extra-long sleeves and jeans, who give off that sense of alt-intellectual superiority.The printed pieces featuring Strindberg’s paintings proved the standouts, in part because these wild, poetic scenes embodied the attitude of the collection. You get the sense Johansson found comfort in this pathetic fallacy (when human emotions are attributed to nature) even while ensuring accessible entry points (the bags and scarves, for instance). It had all the ingredients of a good trip.
|
Amy Verner
|
July 1, 2019
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 218
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2020-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,020
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Even with my generously supplied,Vogue-arranged credits from Uber it would have been physically impossible to interview Jonny Johansson as per his desired one-one-one (read, slow) basis after this Acne show and make the next one seven kilometers away—until Uber starts running drone-dispatched human deliveries. So instead it was a case of please email the logic of this collection. When that email arrived, it kind of made sense of a mish-mash that included a mix of the attractive (especially the woven, fringed red pieces) and the meh (quite a bit).Acne is an amazing brand that has done a lot, but Johansson should have reconsidered details as basic as his location and presentation. The collection was indulgently shown (read, slow—only Bode was slower). That said, it was deeply thought through, and related to the idea of filtering applied by photographers on their lenses to massage the conditions of light. This was reflected in the transparency of many pieces. The most interesting filters were provided by those garments woven in scarlet with fringing—they were basically quite attractive—but the overall ambition of the collection was not always fulfilled through its execution.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 19, 2019
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 219
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Jonny Johansson has rather enjoyed lockdown. Spending it at his Swedish country house, he has found it a sort of pastoral escape from reality: “a dreamscape, fantasy situation,” he said. “It’s been quite an easy place to focus, a comforting world to be in.” It’s not been the experience of many over the past 12 months, but it was that envy-inducing sentiment that he chose to translate into his latest Acne Studios collection, which revolves around something likely more relatable to most: duvet dressing.Distressed dressing gowns and fuzzy fabric pajamas, floral nightgowns and distended knits appropriated the cutesy fabrics that furnish his home, making for a collection which, in many ways, you wish debuted this time last year rather than (hopefully) in time for our collective emergence (although “it’s not ending yet,” he cheerily pointed out). But his brand regularly leans into a curated, vintage sensibility, and within the context of his audience’s desires, it maybe makes more sense. Thick knitted socks stuffed into stilettos are already a street style staple, and the new shoes he’d designed, with straps made to accommodate heavy layers, will facilitate its endurance; the artfully askew cuts of chunky cardigans or draped dresses offer inbuilt insouciance. Stripped back, some of the underlayers (notably a tie-dye, silken dress, or a button-down micro-floral ’90s number) were charming. It would have been nice to see some of them appear center stage.Johansson explained he was also designing with the future in mind. His somewhat severe snapback to reality, which appeared toward the end of the collection, revolved around the weddings and funerals precluded by gathering restrictions—hence the monochromatics that followed a palette of well-washed pastels. It felt somewhat dystopian, gaping crochet and wader boots read more directly as apocalyptic than churchgoing attire, but a twisted lace version of a wedding dress or some black taffeta tailoring would certainly suit cocktail hour. This season, designers are grappling with the notion of a post-pandemic wardrobe, and nothing has yet been decided—although it feels unlikely that many people will want to extend a year spent in pajamas much longer than is strictly necessary. But who really knows how any of us will really feel when we finally get there? Maybe the arrival of this collection in stores will prove me wrong.
|
Olivia Singer
|
March 3, 2021
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 220
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2021-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,021
|
menswear
|
fall
|
Fastening dungaree/salopette suspendersovera tailored jacket was the styling detail that most clearly pointed to Jonny Johansson’s strategy to make a mishmash of menswear categories, spice them up with counterintuitive fabrication decisions, and see what came out in the wash.Elsewhere the same dungarees in a gray chalk stripe were worn with those same straps hanging down beneath a raw-edged leather waistcoat lined in buffalo check wool—a sort of center-of-gravity piece for the collection that united the source material of tailoring, workwear, and rocky stuff with which Johansson was playing. Drop-shoulder oversized suiting was made meta thanks to the patterning of a bootleg Acne Studios logo—slightly “wrong”—that the designer found online and reappropriated. Other creative appropriations included loose shorts inspired by the golfing looks of his parents. A workwear jacket in taffeta, some satin dungarees, and Western jackets in fake fur were examples of the contrast between form and fabrication he was driving at. Crochet prints seemed more akin to paisleys on tie-dyed velvet pants, while the body prints on a black suit were another trippy allusion to the inside-outness of it all.Accessories included an oversized scarf that looked a bit like a bag in a padded jersey and pointy-toe, stacked-heel shoes. In his notes Johansson said: “The global situation this past year has allowed us to look inward, renewing our commitment to an experimental studio practice. Experimentation is what I love in design. It’s like the artist’s studio or the band’s rehearsal room.” His approach to the season led to some beguiling formulations and ended with a suit cut in ripstop printed with denim as a nod to where the Acne journey began.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 20, 2021
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 221
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
If—thanks to the horror movieMidsommar—Sweden now reminds you of creepy cults and boys trapped inside hollowed-out bears (what, rather than “Dancing Queen” and salty licorice?), you may have found a home at Sweden’s own Acne Studios. Well, sort of. While Jonny Johansson didn’t spend the lockdown period on a brightly lit forest farm run by sacrifice-practicing lunatics—but in Stockholm—it did fill him with a sense of spiritual rebirth. “A little bit,” he said. “It feels like a transition to something more positive. I’m very optimistic about what’s happening. I feel positive. I spent more time with myself and my family, and just in the studio with people. It’s been a less stressful period, although the stress has come from somewhere else. I’ve been quite happy, actually, although I know that sounds weird.”Maybe that explained why Johansson’s show notes referenced “gatherings for a spiritual moonrise” (cinemagoers will know what that’s Swedish for), and the garments quite literally reflected it. Everywhere you looked, there was a shiny, metallic, or iridescent texture. Within the context, it felt a bit like New Age spirituality, an element you could associate with the surfer culture Johansson belongs to. “When the sun is going down, hordes of people are staying on the beach looking at the sundown. It’s like a tribe of people that go towards the light,” he said.The shine mingled with raw materials like crinkled paper, washed linens, and hemp on heels. Styled together, it had a certain density about it. A raggy dress in stained leather and tattered netting drove home the cultish association. There may have been a stringy straitjacket in there too. A collaboration with the Los Angeles–based artist Ben Quinn, who interprets his personal experiences with the mystical via supernatural imagery, produced various pieces that made the whole affair feel that extra-bit pagan.Invited to experience a repeat of the show after its livestream, guests walked through a series of rooms in the Grand Palais, each reflecting a different time of day and the light that defines it. The looks were selected to match those different occasions. Models were lined up and walking around in circles, eerily staring up at a massive sunlamp as if they were participating in a séance. In all their textures and intricate cuts, they looked like the street style stars who pose for pictures outside fashion shows. Johansson suggested he was envisioning a wardrobe for the post-pandemic woman. If what she was searching for was the cult of full-throttle fashion aspiration, she’d have found her guru.
|
Anders Christian Madsen
|
October 1, 2020
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 222
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
When Jonny Johansson was a teenager still at school he lobbied his mother to get him some Levi’s 501s. Mrs. Johansson resisted, bought Swedish, and came back with two pairs of denim pants that she’d snagged from H&M for the same price as one pair of red tags. “She said this is the best choice,” Johansson sighed backstage tonight. At the same time, however, Mrs. J also picked up a jacket which Jonny initially was not into—but which he decided to have a go at turning into something he liked. “It needed to be shortened and then I added a belt. I went into school wearing it, not knowing if people would notice it, or notice that it was home-made—which was not cool,” he said today. None of Johansson’s schoolmates reacted either way.Well just look at him now. This collection leaned into Acne’s denim heritage in front of an influence-loaded audience with great effect. Upcycled patched denim paperbag skirts, an upcycled patched denim crini dress, and the opening look, averrrywide-leg garment dyed denim skirt, all paid homage to the single medium that was chiefly responsible for this multi-hyphenate success. Against this he played denim’s natural co-conspirator, leather, via a series of double-breasted trench coats reduced to slit-skirted armless dresses, sometimes also overdyed.Other notable elements included tuft-lined and sometimes-quilted regal blanket dresses in grandma florals, crystal embedded rib-kit socks over shoes, grungily faded jersey separates, layered fringed curtain dresses, and repeated returns to the post-Talking Heads boxy blazer in overdyed leather that was another early Acne signature. As tattered and ragged in its delivery as it was complete in its conception, this was an Acne collection that seemed more comfortable with itself than many that I have witnessed since 2010’s Kensington Palace outing—which was delicately referenced here.
|
Luke Leitch
|
March 2, 2022
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 223
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,022
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menswear
|
fall
|
It started with a button. It was shaped like a cartoon flower and marbled like a 1960s Bakelite bangle, and once Jonny Johansson came across the retro fastening in Stockholm, he found he couldn’t stop thinking about it. The button made him both hone in on the hyper-local and come over all crafty for fall. “It’s not like we’ve been on any exotic excursions,” he said wryly, explaining how his obsession became the collection’s starting point. Besides, in normal times, “we’re kind of like nomads, flying around all over the world, all the time. So anything local is kind of gold in my opinion.”Johansson was speaking over the phone from Stockholm, where he was preparing to receive his third vaccine shot. He was unable to present his latest collection in Paris, nor to travel for inspiration. So, he decided to stick with Sweden, particularly with the nomadic communities in the north near where he grew up. A woven woolen bib paired with a figure-skater style metallic blue top recalled the tapestries his mother used to make on a loom in the family sitting room. Boots and slip-on shoes with a distinctive “beaked” toe, part of a collaboration with Kero, a brand native to Swedish Lapland, were based on the ones Johansson wore as a schoolchild. Even the thigh-high chaps—seriously outlandish, and drawing admiring looks in the showroom presentation—were inspired by traditional styles worn by reindeer herders. “I think what has been coming with this whole streetwear explosion is this functionality that we’re quite used to in Scandinavia,” remarked Johansson. “I really didn’t like those boots as a kid, but my mom thought they were cool, and now I realize I quite like them.”Elsewhere, the collection had a grungy, lived-in feel that refused to conform to any singular look. Baggy trousers with appliqué patches were styled with crushed velvet blazers. A brocade patchwork waistcoat was paired with a shearling bolero and loose-fitting fleece trousers in a murky shade of brown. Those floral buttons popped up on a crinkled leather trench coat, the kind that looked like it had been rolled up in a ball under a teenager’s bed for a few months too many. If there was the odd eyebrow-raising item, well, all the better. Acne Studios turns 25 this year, and its perversity has been its strength. “We were wrong from the start,” mused Johansson, when asked to sum up the secret to the brand’s staying power. “We had the wrong name, we come from the wrong place, we don’t do things as people usually are supposed to do. We are honest about that.”
|
Ellie Pithers
|
January 19, 2022
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 224
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
From bed clothes to underclothes. That’s the difference half a year of pandemic living can make. The last time Jonny Johansson was showing off his Acne Studios womenswear on the runway, the concept was duvet dressing. This time, with vaccines available to all who’ll take them and a generalized excitement about getting back on the scene, the collection was about undressing, specifically the idea of exposing your lingerie.As a solid Gen X’er, Johansson comes at fashion for the Gen Z shoppers who are the target market these days less by feel than by close observation. “I’m interested in how important it is for them to present themselves,” he said. “Fashion has become almost as important as religion, which is different from when I grew up, when music was the most important religion.” Those of us who fondly remember expressing ourselves via mixtapes can relate. Elaborating, he said he’s noticed a post-lockdown trend toward undone exposure that spans genders. Johansson has teen boys, and they’re just as free and fashion-curious as their female peers.On the runway today, floral-print blouses that fastened with a single bow in the front were paired up with minis bearing straps and buckles that hinted at BDSM or old-fashioned girdles, depending on your references. Corsets got a rework, too, in tooled leather, plaid, or military-grade nylon. And fitted skirts did indeed take their details from girdles, with stretchy side panels and garter snaps—talk about an anachronism. If it wasn’t lifted directly from the boudoir, it was otherwise sheer or clingy or midriff baring—or all three.All this puts Acne in the middle of the fashion conversation for spring 2022, which is right where Johansson wants the brand to be. He also aced the season’s chunky shoe trend with what have to be the most precipitous platforms going. The towering sandals tell the story: They are ridiculous in the way of most fashion shoes, but they aren’t paralyzing the way some runway heels have been this week. To understand sexy in the 2020s versus the sexy of previous, pre-COVID generations, start with the feet.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 29, 2021
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 225
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2022-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,022
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Down south in French Basque country, in the village of Guéthary on the Atlantic coast, there is a nonprofit surf hostel meets gallery meets happening space named theMarienia. As Jonny Johansson described it, the place is wonderful—a bit like Tacheles in Berlin, the Chelsea Hotel, or the Rainbow Temple near Byron Bay—in that it attracts souls of an unconventional perspective who find themselves happily washed up there together. As he talked, I half recalled that the Marienia is also frequented byShawn Stüssy“Yes!” Johansson said. “I have met him many times there. And Miki Dora stayed there. And this guy called Ivan [Terestchenko], who made the wonderful bookBeyond Chic. There is this great melting pot of people coming in, going out, and it is a real cultural experience.”As well as shooting this collection at the Marienia, Johansson literally replicated some aspects of it within the garments here; the pattern of a red-buttoned tunic was inspired by bedclothes, and there were flashes of hydrangea to reflect the bursts of color in the garden and an emphasis on burnished brown tones that reflected the paneling of the structure. Less literally, he also worked to recreate that melting-pot vibe by placing hippieish knits and tie-dyes against Lurex-licked suiting against seditiously spirited berets against sexy-boy flares.The styling, less hectically try-hard than at some past Acne shows, nicely played up the creative unorthodoxy Johansson was working to evoke along with his parodically subversive reworking of military vintage. Especially covetable pieces to this eye included a paneling brown suede jacket fringed with black crochet work; a floral-print overdyed shirt in purple with four contrasting patch pockets in blue; some sort of gardener’s jodhpurs worn north of nearly knee-highs; T-shirt-caftan combos with gentle Rabin Huissen prints; and a suit in a croc pattern intended as mock in both senses.There were lots in that melting pot, and overall this was an Acne collection containing much to enjoy staying in. And I’m not just saying that because Johansson opened our conversation by saying this: “When I design collections, it’s a very easy process: I just go for it. I’m scared of getting bad reviews...I’m scared of all of that, but at the same time, I can only do what I do.”
|
Luke Leitch
|
July 7, 2021
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 1
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 226
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
With crystal strands dripping from twisted tree trunks and psychedelic crochet flowers in full bloom, the stage was set for an enchanted forest at Acne Studios tonight. For creative director Jonny Johansson, the fantastical reference was rooted in memories of his childhood growing up in northern Sweden, where the backyard was, as he put it, “infinite woods.” Now a longtime resident of Stockholm, Johansson has built the Scandi brand on a decidedly urban aesthetic, one that first leaned into hardworking denim and cool outerwear. The new collection was presented as a nostalgic exploration of the natural world through a city dweller’s lens.Models stomped out like bleary-eyed wood nymphs on their way to some all-night rave, decked out in skinny lace-up leather pants and cropped moto jackets that were painted to look like flaky white birch trees and moss green crochet slip dresses studded with flowers that gently unraveled on the bias. Johansson described the distressed look and handwork of the clothes as a rejection of the hyperreal look of digital fashion that has swept social media in the last few years. Perhaps in theory at least, the clothes were conceived of as an antidote to an overstimulated, highly technological way of being—the sartorial equivalent of the digital detox we’ve all desperately been craving.In practice, that destroyed look had an apocalyptic bent that verged on the threadbare in places. It would be tough to imagine some of the barely-there devoré-and-silk-chiffon leaf dresses finding a place in the real world. The wrapped and draped herringbone wool coats and crinkled oversized blazers, on the other hand, had a practical swagger that was more tangible. That down-to-earth feeling was in line with the mood of the season and seems most likely to hold sway on the street come fall.
|
Chioma Nnadi
|
March 1, 2023
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 227
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,023
|
menswear
|
fall
|
Negotiating the space around (and between) “menswear” and “womenswear” is nothing new in fashion. What is new, however, is the social context in which that negotiation has been revived. This season JW Anderson, Dolce & Gabbana, and Saint Laurent have all already thrillingly re-engaged in the conversation, this time in front of an emerging generation for which the traditional binary constructs of sex and gender are all up for review, if not already dismissed as hopelessly unfit for purpose.Over at Acne Studios, creative director Jonny Johansson took a typically ironic approach to subverting the biological differences that both define and confine us societally. “I’ve got a lot of masculine baggage,” deadpanned the designer: “so I wanted to explore something that was as masculine as possible.” In fact the collection offered a parodically fabulous version of the traditional in order to lampoon its absurdities, offering wearable ways to get changed.The collection was shot in that ultimate crucible of raw masculinity, a cave. But Johansson’s primitives favored a fresh type of pelt. Oversized strapped and battered jacquard denims (he!) played below woven crop tops (she!) and biker pants motored alongside stretchy tops. There was a pastel soccer shirt worn beneath a bleach splattered ’80s sports blouson. Soccer boots were transformed into heels, worn with a spiraling Aran knit tube dress. “I feel very comfortable with the masculine aesthetic, but not with masculinity itself,” said Johansson. This was an exercise in unconventional comfort designed for those who defy convention.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 18, 2023
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 228
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The Palais de Tokyo venue was carpeted a light pink, and here and there shell-covered candelabra stood at attention among a maze of beds covered in matching satin duvets and pillows. Kylie Jenner perched on one of the mattresses and the British rapper Little Simz on another. We were all guests at a wedding. Acne Studios’s Johnny Johansson said he’d been thinking about his own nuptials nearly 20 years ago; he’d been having regrets about his outfit, it was too safe.His memories gave the Acne team cause to produce their most dressed up collection since the Swedish brand began showing here in Paris 10 years ago. The denim that forms the company’s foundation was reserved for a strapless all-in-one with a ‘waistband’ neckline and a couple pairs of jeans worn with tulle confections.The ostensible bride wore white embroidered tulle in the shape of an elongated pillow case, the corners creating drama around the shoulders, but Johansson said that he was less interested in the affianced than in the crowd of nearest and dearest that might assemble to celebrate them: the bad brother, the mother who lets the bad brother get away with everything, the tipsy aunt, etc.“Weddings are kind of kitsch,” he pointed out. Surely, the pink satin bed sheet dress qualified. Ditto for the pastel bows trapped between layers of lace and tulle, and the gingham suits with bra tops worn over the jackets, each cup boasting a blooming rosette. All that sweetness met its opposite in thrashed leather blazers trimmed with metal spikes.At weddings, the ceremony often goes on too long and the band is rarely to everyone’s taste. This show was guilty on both counts, but for anyone in need of a friend-of-the-bride dress, the red number with ruching around the heart on its bodice was a knockout.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 28, 2022
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 229
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2023-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,023
|
menswear
|
spring
|
By any objective measure at least, Acne Studios is on top. September will see the proudly independent Swedish fashion arthouse mark a decade on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. And it used the pandemic dynamically, making a multi-million euro investment to cook up a fresh retail concept for the grand store that opened with much fanfare earlier this week, at the very same Rue St Honoré space where Jonny Johannson once used to shop for Helmut Lang in the early aughts. Oh yes, and there was this collection too.Johansson dialed into the showroom to describe a typically multi-faceted collection that had sprung, he said, from a very personal place: his wedding. “When we got married I had wanted to wear white. But I chickened out. I ended up wearing a black smoking with a wide lapel that seemed funky, but now, looking back, it probably wasn’t the best choice.” Thinking back on his own nuptials plus those of a few friends who’ve gotten hitched much more recently, Johansson started thinking about occasion wear. This led him to a collection that messed with the archetypes of special-event attire by imagining an Acne-fied cast of characters attending an imaginary wedding.This correspondent’s instinct was that the designer’s own chosen wedding attire—if he could go back and do it all over again—was look 18’s bib shirt and short. On the day though, he would most likely chicken out and go for look 30’s undeniably funking low-hipped pink satin two piece suit. There was a satisfyingly bad boy studded minimal lederhosen-ish leather two-piece perfect for a badly behaved uncle. The woozily wispy distorted crochet knitwear seemed destined for a dangerously boozy auntie. And the linen suiting decorated with almost saccharine sweet bows by artist Karen Kilimnik was a dangerously overt signalling of sweet intentions ideal for any wedding party Romeo to hit the dancefloor in.These fantasy characters aside, you could easily see customers not caring a jot about the inspiration behind the collection but being highly attracted to a suite of clothes that signaled the specialness of the context for which they’d been imagined, but which were also conduits of character and anything but uniform. Top stuff.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 25, 2022
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 230
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,024
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ready-to-wear
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fall
|
Denim and leather are the meat and drink upon which Acne Studios has sustained itself and flourished since its late 1990s founding. Backstage today Jonny Johansson confessed that over the years he has sometimes hungered for other design outlets—“I was like: ‘I need something else. Ineedit!’”—which is how tailoring, knitwear, accessories and all the other categories Acne covers have entered its lexicon. Denim and leather, however, remain the source.Today Johansson returned to them as the foundations of a collection through which he built out a much broader Acne edifice. It was informed and inspired by two works, named Chairs in Rubber, by the Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo: these were made from recycled tires sliced into strips and then fashioned into beyond human-size, vaguely sinister thrones. Some guests were seated in the middle of the runway on smaller reconstructions of them. Johansson said that Jaanisoo’s “mechanical treatment” of objects designed to envelop the human form had accelerated the approach to the clothes we saw tonight.Denim, the first of Acne’s twin poles, was rendered by spray or soaking to variously carry a rusty, oily or metallic surface sheen. Thus mechanized it was cut into high collared truckers, jeans, full-length trucker-shirt dresses, or strapless dresses. These treatments were echoed in the matte, paint-like coating applied to thick rib knit dresses.Leather was delivered in two main ways. Broadly ruched bodies and dresses in smoothly finished, supple hides meant to recall saddlery were contoured with wide zippers meant to echo those of a handbag. This was part of a broader story that saw bag straps accent shoes, and padlocks used as earrings, shoe hardware, and in gunmetal necklaces: a cross-category mash-up designed to question where one began and the other ended.The second leather story came via three dresses that were as stiffly rigid as the zippered pieces were soft and yielding. These had been shaped through repeated wetting to hold their form, which was pre-molded to fit around the bodies of their wearers. Their sculptural aspect was further reflected in the colored printed dresses that featured a sculpture of a renaissance winged cherub.Further elements in Johansson’s fit-out included heavy, high-volume coats in Icelandic shearling and further versions in faux furs. Skin-tight short-legged bodysuits (also zippered) and layered and light ribbed-knit base layers were racy in a vaguely automotive sense. Conversely, two dresses whose bodicing flared at the hip to allow the skirts to fall widely from them, and some looks in a tailoring check, were more stately. “Sometimes you really want to crash things,” Johansson observed. His collection of curated collisions did just that.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 28, 2024
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 231
|
||
Acne Studios
|
fall-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,024
|
menswear
|
fall
|
“When I see people wearing denim today it seems new again,” said Jonny Johansson over speakerphone from Sweden. Kept at home by family matters, he was checking in to the presentation in Paris, where Acne Studios was unveiling the results of the creatively fired founder’s return to a genre he calls “rebellious denim.” The fabric is Acne’s staple and cornerstone, but often in this most “elevated” collection is shown as a side-dish, if at all. Today it proudly returned to the podium.Johansson shot this lookbook on Yves Tumor, an artist he says typifies the shapeshifting chimera spirit he worked his denim to amplify. He said: “when I was with Yves they were always moving and their look was always changing: not considered but also composed.”Much of the denim was printed with trompe l’oeil effects, like chains and straps. “This is very surface, which feels very contemporary-futuristic as well as sustainable,” he said. Similarly, the ribbed knit baselayer pants and top that appeared painted were smooth to the touch, their image embedded by print in the fabric.Cyberpunk—a word now over 40 years old—seemed revived (updated of course) in the articulated bulbous-legged work-jeans, strappy shorts, fluoro accents, and hypertight shirting. Johansson said he swung between a loose high, skinny low silhouette and its opposite as the only point of order in a collection that was otherwise riotous. Shearling lined boots with back pocket uppers, denim bags and candy toned super-sized fur hats were amongst the additions that felt both throwback and fresh. A skirt printed with a black gloved hand sticking its middle finger upwards nicely captured a mood that never gets old because there is always a new generation stepping up to feel it.
|
Luke Leitch
|
January 17, 2024
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 232
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,024
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
“Sometimes there’s a lot of kerfuffle,” said Jonny Johansson before this show: “Ideas, ideas, ideas—spinning on ideas but not really directing.” That’s not to say there weren’t concepts in a collection that collided construction sites with that moment when the lights come up as the club closes—spaces of transition—and garnished the results with the feminocentric archeology of artist Katerina Jebb. But there was plenty of execution too in this engaging Acne show. And it all went back to denim.“It’s always been the most important product, and I feel strongly about it. But I also felt embarrassed—[as if people were saying,] ‘It’s not real fashion’—and I wanted to be a real designer, if that makes sense,” said Johansson. Today he moved on from those early-collection hoodoos by going back to make runway reclamation of the five-pocket pant in denim that was the foundation of Acne’s success. Its imprint was evident on the back of a flying-waist gray skirt or under a layer of chalky cracked plaster or at the waist of a heat-pressed red leather coat. A lace trucker jacket was similarly layered in plaster, as were denim miniskirts. Denim was under renovation and restoration.Elsewhere, scanned relics from Jebb’s suite Physical Evidence of a Woman (a pair of false eyelashes, some chaotically discarded pantyhose) were placed on garments as imprinted fossils of femininity. Tufts of feather sprouted from a ribbed jersey dress and vest; a trench was lumpily cut to look as if done up in the dark; and tulle pom-poms were dotted in disarray across sheer plain and check dresses.There was a fun trio of dark brown leather coat, teak leather skirt, and off-white leather minidress that came with conjoined hands-free handbags. Skirts of ragged jersey were articulated to sit off the hip, suspended. Vest tops and bras were entangled in a morning-after-the-night-before inversion of the conventional, reflected in the enormous sunken and fracturing disco ball from which the models came out to walk. The square-studded jeans that closed the show had a glint of a return toward something more conventionally put together. Kerfuffle-free—or at least almost—this Acne outing offered directionally disheveled and deconstructed womenswear paradigm pieces aplenty.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 27, 2023
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 1
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 233
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2024-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,024
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Jonny Johansson elected to ship out on a truncated but still transformative Grand Tour as he shaped this menswear collection, traveling to Venice late last October. Of course the Swede swung south for the art, the architecture, and the Thomas Mann vibes, however he said his chief objective “was to explore the psychology of how you change your look when you travel, how you are inspired to dress differently in order to shape a different alter ego.”That experience-fueled consideration served to turbo-charge Johansson’s customary eclecticism to new heights. The central route of this worn itinerary was directed around his personal obsession with denim, a fabric that wears its use, experience, and movement like a diary. The designer created raw undyed denim jeans that were printed with a collaged patchwork of his own vintage pieces, creating a sort of meta-vintage melange. These would have looked good with a similarly collaged soft pink and black check button-up shirt. Elsewhere a jacquard weave monogram on pale denim acted as a kind of branded worn postcard.One highlight of this seasonal Acne trip was a series of items created with the Swedish ceramic artist Per B. Sundberg. These includedMars Attacks!–reminiscent death’s head curios and unsettling prints of cutesy animals and distorted wraith-like figures on garments that were treated to have a glassy finish, as if the images were entombed in glass. The designer said visiting the famous glass blowers of Murano had fired the idea for these.Pink but grungy velour pants (certainly not Barbiecore), studded garment dyed dungarees, swimwear with sexually competitive messaging, leather wrap skirts, footprint-print knits, and the house soccer shirt were also present in Johansson’s suitcase. A deep purple flared-collar, shirred-waist doublet—quite New Romantic—was his concession to dressing local. This was an Acne collection whose rails were a pleasure to travel through.
|
Luke Leitch
|
June 21, 2023
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 234
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Acne Studios
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/acne-studios
| 2,025
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ready-to-wear
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spring
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This collection and show’s germination dates back to last year, when Jonny Johansson saw an installation by the artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase at Sadie Coles HQ in London. Backstage tonight Johansson recalled how he was affected and inspired by the work’s “tenderness, playfulness, and spontaneity. And it made me think that I’d been going too mad for fashion and that I wanted to do something different and maybe take more of a risk.”Due credit to that thought’s catalyst was the new installation by the artist within the Acne Studios runway space tonight. The raised curated arrangement of layered furniture and sculpture adorned with a front row of mostly Acne-wearing show watchers encapsulated this liminal spanning of fashion and contemporary art.Lyndon Chase’s explorative approach to domesticity, privacy, and what he called “interior moments” was reflected in a collection that seemed sometimes upholstered by materials drawn from interior design. The garments also seemed to reflect an ambiguity within—or at least an ambivalence toward—the codes of identity that clothes so often encapsulate. Like much of the furniture, the garments were fundamentally conventional, yet through the process of making had become altered and amplified to interrogate that convention.This was fun. The models wore crushed coiffures and librarian’s rimless spectacles—possibly inspired by Johansson’s childhood piano teacher—as they walked past in clothes you sensed they would (and should) never grow into entirely inhabiting. Tailoring in padded mock-croc and leather overcoats was oversized and amplified. Knit looks were artfully disarrayed as if put on while still entangled from the dryer. Shrunken tops in what looked like boiled-wool blankets were frayed and picked at along their edges.All this made great context for some masterfully meta mom jeans worn under fitted tops in floral-pattern waxed tablecloth coverings (at least apparently). These jeans were fitted at the waist but then flew wide and straight at the hip, down either to a multibreak hem or a wide-cuff edged in more florals (just like some cool kids used to). Evening looks included jersey dresses in angularly layered irregular seams of differently printed fabrics—the result of some fierce argument at the haberdashery—and an endearingly klutzy lampshade gown spattered with bows: formal abnormal.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 25, 2024
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 235
|
||
Acne Studios
|
spring-2025-menswear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-menswear/acne-studios
| 2,025
|
menswear
|
spring
|
Years in the making, the opening of Acne Studios HQ in Paris was decidedly worth the wait. There will be more to reveal soon, but let’s just say that the building—located in the 10th arrondissement—gives off a carefully calibrated clash of opulent and raw, with the spaces as well-suited to a party or photo shoot as today’s showroom.From a crinkled patent leather sofa in the brand’s signature pink (nicely done, Max Lamb), Jonny Johansson explained how this season’s lineup revolved around the notion of superheroes and how most of us have an article of clothing that makes us feel more kick-ass. For some, this might already be the Acne Studios extra-long colorful fuzzy scarf. But Johansson was thinking on a whole other level of hero piece.Cue a multitude of looks covered with Wonder Woman, Catwoman, and other DC femme fatales in an official collaboration with Warner Bros. Discovery Global Consumer Products. From Pop art patterns to patches on bags, they prompted the inevitable gender-charged question. “Women are the real superheroes—or they have more superpowers, at least,” Johansson replied. “They’re violent but in another way.” Subtext: sexier—and nods to fetishwear cropped up in a suit piped with silicone and cotton short shorts that teased with holes. Clearly, Acne Studios doesn’t need latex suits to offer up some kink.Elsewhere the collection doubled down on last season’s ingenious trompe l’oeil printed jeans (actually a cotton canvas), tricked out with illusion chains and charms or stacked with studded belts—no need to further accessorize—while also introducing an elaborately distressed jacquard denim. Despite the two extremes of technique, the difference in photos might be barely discernible. And there were plenty more novel ideas, too, including a cargo in a fluid fabric, a side-zip warm-up pant in supple leather, and a camera bag that was almost named Photoshopper. Second-skin mesh tops were printed with Johansson’s old band logo from the ’90s. What is his superpower? “Guitars,” he replied. “You can listen to music, but you can also make music, and you can live music.” Put another way and specific to this fun and frisky season, if we can’t be sexy rock stars (or superheroes), we can at least dress the part.
|
Amy Verner
|
June 19, 2024
|
Jonny Johansson
|
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] | 0
|
Jonny Johansson
|
Jonny Johansson
| 0
| 236
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,006
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Buddakan, soon to be the latest addition to the 24-hour open-air club/mall known as Manhattan's Meatpacking District, was the location of the Adam + Eve presentation. This was the first public outing of the company's ready-to-wear line, which was introduced to retailers last spring. Adam Lippes, a former Oscar de la Renta creative director, initially launched the company in 2004 as an underwear and T-shirt line, and it seems to be growing rapidly—having taken just two years to expand into sportswear.Lippes set out to create "luxury basics," rather than follow trends, and the presentation featured great, collegiate-feeling pieces for both men and women. A fur vest would be great for tailgating, and jackets had three-quarter sleeves—all the better to layer over longer sweaters, many of them striped and V-necked. Dresses, like a pintucked tank number with feather embroidery at the hem, were worn with comfy alpaca cardigans, projecting an attitude of ease.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 5, 2006
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 0
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 237
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,007
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Adam Lippes' Fall collection embraced the sporty collegiate life—a theme familiar to those who've been following his line. Cozy cable-knit sweaters—enormous, and thick as duvets—were paired with slouchy tweed coats or a shrunken rain slicker. A wool trench with a tie-dye effect would make a cool cover-up for day or night, on- or off-campus. The rebel might be drawn to a patent-trimmed, cropped jacket or a gathered sack dress studded with brass spheres; the party girl would favor the cocktail dresses, particularly the black taffeta bubble with sequin trim or the triple-tiered plissé mini with glittery dots. While Lippes' vision remains fixed, his execution and materials have climbed to a higher level. Now let's hope for some deviation from the schoolgirl theme in the future.
|
Joanna Rodger
|
February 4, 2007
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 238
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,007
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Presenting his sportswear line, Adam + Eve, for the second time, Adam Lippes chose the Banchet Flowers shop in the far West Village as his venue. This made for a cramped, if fragrant, show location. But despite the crush, the clothes looked smart. Inspired by the rich fabrics and photographs from a long-ago trip to Kenya, Lippes balanced an organic, natural element—with obvious African roots—with his all-American sensibility. This juxtaposition of earthy and clean came to life in a knockout cream satin shift with distressed-metal embroidered trim.A bright, Afro-centric print on cotton voile was cut into a breezy blouse and paired with crisp pleated shorts. Thick, embroidered cotton eyelet, meanwhile, was hand-painted white to give it a touch of earthy texture, and it showed up in a strapless top as well as a ladylike dress. Combining a bit more sophistication with a solid dose of the sporty edge on which he founded his line, Lippes' collection is evolving each season.
|
Joanna Rodger
|
September 10, 2006
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 239
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,008
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
If anyone should understand sophisticated American style it should be Adam Lippes, an alumnus of both Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta, right? For Fall, he borrowed a page from the former and set out into the country for the weekend. There were hand-knit sweaters, herringbone pants, and buffalo-plaid jackets for the girls, and L.L. Bean duck boots for the boys. One of the strongest looks was an ombré mohair wool coat that blended in with the mural of trees on the runway's backdrop. Unfortunately, nothing seemed truly signature or unique, the proceedings were a bit repetitive, and Lippes got rather lost in the woods.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
February 2, 2008
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
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| 240
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Adam Lippes
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,008
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Witness the buffing and polishing of a young sportswear line: In August, Adam Lippes announced he'd be changing the name from Adam + Eve to the more user-friendly ADAM; this week came his first runway show, after three seasons of lower-key presentations; and later this fall, the doors to his first freestanding store, in New York's Meatpacking District, will swing wide.And while the wheels of his business have been strategically churning away, Lippes has, of course, been at work designing Spring. He showed a relaxed easy-dressing collection in a scheme of mostly cream and beige shot through with bright color. Japanese influences were evident in the kimono sleeves and obi belts, while gestures in the direction of the Abstract Expressionist Morris Louis—colored stripes and the like—rounded out the agenda. Pairing breezy, to-the-floor dresses and wide-leg pants with chic flat sandals and gauzy head wraps, he set a laid-back tone sure to strike a chord among the contemporary Adams and Eves who buy his clothes. It was appealing and wearable—exactly what contemporary sportswear should shoot for. The hand-painted, striped knit pieces and the dégradé silk dresses will blow out of stores come spring.
|
Joanna Rodger
|
September 4, 2007
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 241
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,009
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
"This is the center of the American design industry," Adam Lippes replied when asked why he'd decided to bring his latest show to the Bryant Park tents now, in this season of discontent. "It felt like the right time to be here."Lippes also thought the time was right for bright, upbeat shots of primary color—and he didn't hold back. Inspired by an exhibit of Japanese photography at Boston's Peabody Museum, he interpreted images of samurai warriors and Mount Fuji into sunny, wearable separates (many bedecked with layers of sequins) for a fun-loving girl.ADAM does a brisk business in outerwear, and the oversize felted wool blazers and realistic faux-fur jackets were just the sort of attractively priced basics that recession-weary shoppers could be convinced to shell out for come autumn. With the recent opening of a second boutique, this one in his native Buffalo, N.Y., Lippes appears poised to become a torchbearer for a new generation in American sportswear.
|
Romney Leader
|
February 13, 2009
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 242
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,009
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Not even a last-minute tropical storm-induced shift indoors could ruffle Adam Lippes' feathers. "I think the colors will pop even more against all this brown," he said of his 11th-hour venue, a Victorian Gothic church in Chelsea. And pop they did, in hues inspired by Museum of Modern Art's color-chart exhibit earlier this year. Lippes was at his best when he kept it bright and uncomplicated—with a cerulean georgette gown, for example (a shorter version in amber was also nice). Other standouts included a pair of groovy shift dresses, one embroidered with a rainbow of molded plastic beads and another with clear Lucite shapes that swished like fringe down the catwalk. With the exception of some distracting straps and buckles, this solid collection should spell fair weather ahead for Lippes.
|
Romney Leader
|
September 5, 2008
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 0
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 243
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/adam-lippes
| 2,009
|
resort
|
"I just want everything to be easy," said Adam Lippes of his ADAM Resort collection—not surprising from a designer who began with T-shirts. But here Lippes achieved T-shirt ease with khaki cotton sateen cut into a smart little dress or cropped pantsuit; great pieces like a quilted bolero with tulle-covered crystals (still refreshingly simple in all white); and maxi dresses in buttery jersey or featherweight taffeta. Despite his vacation bent, the designer stressed the wear-now factor, particularly in multitasking knits that will be right for Barbados and the Bowery.
|
Meenal Mistry
|
June 18, 2008
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 244
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,010
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
If Adam Lippes isn't the first designer who comes to mind when you're seeking an understated darted shift or a timelessly polished wrap dress, his latest effort could change those expectations.Lippes stretched himself beyond the young, simple-and-sporty basics (jumpsuits, sweatshirts, and blazers) he's turned out in the past, skewing toward a more luxe and detailed look. The outerwear—including a fatigue jacket lined in coyote and a striped peacoat with shearling trim—was impressive; blouses and dresses were intricately embroidered with sequins. Cropped cable-knit sweaters and a few billowy maxi dresses, meanwhile, hinted at classic ADAM and gave the collection some familiarity."My woman is stronger this season," the young designer said backstage. "The collection is more sophisticated; the emphasis is on fashion this time." It's too soon to tell where this new maturity will lead, but kudos to him for pushing his own envelope.
|
Romney Leader
|
February 12, 2010
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 245
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2010/adam-lippes
| 2,010
|
pre-fall
|
If Adam Lippes' 2010 plans are anything to go by, we can call an end to the recession. The designer has a swanky new showroom, a third boutique recently opened in Philadelphia, and a Nantucket outpost is coming this summer. His pre-fall clothes, by contrast, are slightly more muted than usual. Instead of the vivid jewel-toned tank dresses and slouchy tees he's known for, Lippes emphasized menswear-inspired tailoring in subdued shades. A charcoal pantsuit, slim black jackets, and a pair of dusty turquoise tweed trousers proved the designer has range. He has good business sense, too: These pieces were cut in lightweight wool-silk blends, allowing for a smooth transition from the easy-breezy summer wares they'll be replacing on the sales floor. As for the flirty little frocks—Lippes' bread and butter—he's done some thinking there, too: A silk T-shirt dress with a pleated chiffon skirt unzipped at the waist, making it three pieces for the price of one. With smart ideas like that, it's no wonder the brand is on an upward trajectory.
|
Romney Leader
|
January 13, 2010
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 246
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,010
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Now in his fourth season showing on the runway, Adam Lippes is clear on his "mythical muse," as he puts it: the gyp-setting girl who's equally at home in New York City, Paris, or a tiny hut on the Indian Ocean. For Spring '10 she traveled to Lamu, Kenya (where the designer vacations). Lippes trimmed a miniskirt in raffia and wood beads and worked a mud-cloth embroidery pattern on a laid-back organza tank dress. At the heart of the collection, though, were his city-girl staples: draped twill shorts, sporty rompers, and slouchy tees, all in bright, saturated hues. Clothes women will wear, to be sure—but, unfortunately, modern basics don't make for the most exciting runway show. Lippes might want to flex his creative muscles a bit more with his next effort.
|
Romney Leader
|
September 11, 2009
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 247
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/adam-lippes
| 2,010
|
resort
|
Silk shifts with braided satin rope embroidery and wavelike chiffon miniskirts were elements of Adam Lippes' "new take on nautical" for Resort 2010. You might wonder how many fresh explorations of those well-charted waters there could be, but Lippes' easy-breezy maxi dresses in shades of lemon and papaya had us dreaming of the seaside. When paired with cropped trenchcoats and slouchy sweatshirts bearing beaded epauletlike shoulders, the result was a vibrant sportswear collection the "gyp-setting" ADAM girl can pair with the existing contents of her closet or suitcase.
|
Romney Leader
|
June 1, 2009
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 248
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A few weeks ago, the small workshop in Uruguay that Adam Lippes uses for his hand-knit sweaters burned to the ground, destroying a good portion of his Fall collection. But Lippes knew the show must go on, so he got resourceful and hired a local ladies' knitting circle at the last minute to replicate the designs he lost in the fire. And yes, the show did proceed seamlessly, chunky knits included. This season was spurred by a recent visit to the National Museum of the American Indian, so an indigenous influence was detectible. There was an elaborate shift dress with a skirt of dégradé feathers sewn over tiny gold sequins for a bit of shine; a mid-calf skirt made from patchworked lamb fur; and a raccoon coat that was simultaneously wild and refined.The Native American theme was more subtle for most of the lineup, where spot-on tailoring took center stage. A long, blush pink vest with leather piping was paired with a matching collarless wool topper for a clean silhouette. And a crepe de chine jumpsuit with crisscross straps was simple, sexy, and flattering. But the blockbuster hit with buyers is sure to be the delicate Chantilly lace T-shirt shown in black and cream—it'll go with everything.
|
Brittany Adams
|
February 11, 2011
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 249
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/adam-lippes
| 2,011
|
pre-fall
|
The return of ladylike dressing is a boon for Adam Lippes. Ladies are who he's been dressing from the beginning—not sexlessly, not uninterestingly, but prettily and with a practiced sense of well-mannered chic. For pre-fall, he took the successful silhouettes from his Spring collection—in particular, the long, wide trousers that caused a stir—and developed them further. The entire look was lengthened: His skirts and dresses hit just below the knee or just above the ankle now. Lippes has also developed a liberal hand with tiny buttons, which snaked up skirts and down the back of blouses. They almost seemed schoolmarmish until you looked again and realized that unbuttoning them one by one could be a fetish unto itself.The entire collection was inspired, Lippes noted, by Wirtz International, the Belgian landscape architecture firm. Looking like the land—is that what women want? But Lippes made it work, with inky, painterly prints resembling wood bark and flowers, and delicate pleating that calls to mind, he said, Wirtz's angular designs. The pleating, as well as quilting (on a cotton vest and leather jacket), will recur for Fall, Lippes hinted. For evening, he whipped up a flowered version of a showstopper from Spring: a sheer bodice that explodes around the bust line into a voluminous, floor-length floral skirt. You might have to be the size of his showroom model to pull off that much fabric, alas, but there's no beating it for drama.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
December 14, 2010
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 250
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Before his show today, designer Adam Lippes confessed that he found the recent movieThe City of Your Final Destinationa bit of a snorer. Apparently, though, he stayed awake long enough to glean some quality inspiration, because he cited the film's images of Charlotte Gainsbourg pottering around a remote estate in Uruguay as the sole reference of the collection.We'll quibble with that. The show itself would have been a bit of a snorer if all it had done was retread the look of rusticated aristocracy. Peasant blouses and city trousers and zzzzzz… No, what elevated Spring was the fact that Lippes' constant and cohesive inspiration iswomen—real ones, not movie ones. Real women with all kinds of bodies, who want to look pretty, and sexy, and a little edgy, and also elegant, and very now, but always like themselves, and not like fashion victims. Lippes seems pretty clearly to believe that his job is to help all those real women square the circles of their desires, and show them clothes that are pretty and sexy and edgy and elegant and very now, and that will never, ever make them look like fools.Let's start with the trousers, high-waist flares tailored to a T and shown in navy, gray, peach, and tomato red, among other colors. The fabrics were unpretentious (twill and denim), but the effect was ridiculously chic, coupled with smart lace blouses and cropped hand-knit sweaters and tuxedo jackets. A pair in cement gray, with sailor-pant-inspired lacing up the back, is a must-have for Spring; they may even sound the death knell of stovepipes. With the sundresses and diaphanous long skirts, Lippes went so far over the horizon of pretty, he wound up back at edgy. (Pretty does feel subversive, after all the spiked platforms and leather leggings of the past few years.)Standouts included a long skirt of pleated chiffon, printed subtly in gray on the top side of the pleat, and left plain cream underneath. The skirt had plenty of movement, given the play of hard pleats and soft chiffon; the print/plain contrast gave it unexpected dimension, too. Another highlight: spaghetti-strap sundresses in white eyelet and a toile-esque chiffon, with fishtail hems as an added surprise.While all that sounds sweet enough to threaten diabetic shock, Lippes cut the treacle with rough linens; punctuating colors of rust, copper, and chambray blue; and dense hand-knits—coincidentally from Uruguay—that had a feeling of real earthiness. Less effectively, he tried to toughen up his collection with Celine-esque leathers and the embroidered sweatshirt jerseys his line has been known for. Both felt out of place. In general, however, this outing had the snap of good sense. That may be an odd thing to say about a brand that is overtly romantic, but it is probably the correct thing to say about a designer with an unerring sense of the relevant.
|
Maya Singer
|
September 10, 2010
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 251
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/adam-lippes
| 2,011
|
resort
|
"This season, it's less about a certain travel or inspiration," Adam Lippes said at his showroom, "It's about the girl being refined, but still at ease." That refinement can possibly be traced to Lippes' booming business in London, which includes recent launches at Harrods and Browns. A focus on relaxation, meanwhile, is not hard to achieve in his serene new studio overlooking the Hudson.Whatever the origin of his ideas, Lippes turned out sleek long gowns—including a great strapless red crepe number—paired with flat sandals; bright yellow sweater sets; an inky silk shirtdress; and a pair of cotton jackets that could effortlessly take the wearer everywhere, or nowhere, as the case may be. It's this kind of real-life approach to dressing that should continue to spell fair weather ahead for the brand on either side of the Atlantic.
|
Romney Leader
|
June 6, 2010
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 252
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,012
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Adam Lippes' design offices overlook the High Line, and he can't help but take in and fixate on his view of that "runway in the sky." Perhaps it had something to do with all the buckets of rain that have been coming down lately, but the ADAM Spring collection was in full bloom. Backstage before the show, Lippes explained one of his floral prints—a rock rose that he "blew up and made pointy," which made a convincing statement on both an ivory silk column dress and a slouchy suit. There was quite a bit of flower-screened denim, which looked best on an A-line knee-length skirt paired with a silk polka-dot pajama top. The designer also paid lip service to the ongoing neon trend (has anyone else noticed how many of those electric Cambridge satchels are floating around Lincoln Center this week?) with the trim of a transparent sleeveless trench, as well as a hot pink long-sleeve tee.In the eveningwear category, there were a few looks that flirted with bedazzle overkill (one model had to walk in a heavy crystal dress that probably weighed more than she does). But the finale number—an organza party dress embroidered with hundreds of tiny French knots—made up for any previous bling blips. Later on that evening, we noticed that Lippes' pal Natalie Joos had plucked that stunning closer right off the runway and was wearing it out for a night on the town.
|
Brittany Adams
|
September 9, 2011
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 0
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 253
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/adam-lippes
| 2,012
|
resort
|
Adam Lippes had fun with proportions for Resort, showing crisp looks that you'd want to steal straight from the sample rack and start wearing now. An oversize twill jacket was paired with a tight miniskirt covered in hand-stitched micro plissé pleats, while long slipdresses cut on the bias from fluid silk were mixed with chunky knit sweaters. The palette here was quintessential Resort: clean white, cool mint green, and soft blush (terrific in super-soft, shaved lambskin on an easy sweatshirt). There was also a graphic element at play, with Lippes taking his cues from minimalist German artist Imi Knoebel. A graphic crosshatch pattern appeared on a party frock in carnival colors with sweet, suspender-detail straps, and also a drapey sequin tunic, cinched at the waist, with a large cutout back that offered cross ventilation for those hot vacation days.
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 1, 2011
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 0
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 254
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,013
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Leaving the industry for a year and buying back the rights to his name brought about personal growth for Adam Lippes. Accordingly, the new eponymous collection that he debuted for Fall is decidedly more grown-up than his former ADAM line. "It's a total progression in a lot of ways," the designer said. "I am excited to produce this kind of quality, and proud of the work that goes into each piece."He emphasized ease and simplicity with sportswear staples, including a sweeping navy military topcoat, as well as a sharp vest-and-trousers set shown with a silk tie-neck blouse—all in crisp winter white—that was a new way to wear a suit. To help get the fit just right, Lippes brought in a menswear tailor. ("They know how to make a jacket," he explained.) He also experimented with innovative fabrics like a duchesse satin bonded with French lace, which was cut into a cool skirt that stood away from the body. Paired with a gauzy sweater featuring subtle mesh inserts, the look was casual yet elegant, and suggested a promising fresh start for Lippes.
|
Brittany Adams
|
February 10, 2013
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 255
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The unexpected inspiration behind Adam Lippes' Fall collection was the Grateful Dead. As a self-proclaimed Dead Head, the designer has seen the legendary jam band live over fifteen times, and views them as quintessentially all-American. This tied in nicely with his signature refined take on classic sportswear. Lucky for Lippes' sophisticated customers, who would likely turn their noses up at the idea of hemp necklaces and festival tees, he treaded lightly with the theme. A heavy georgette shirtdress was tie-dyed with a windowpane check pattern that was more graphic than psychedelic, for example. Elsewhere, Lippes riffed on the idea of bandannas with cowl-neck blouses that came in crisp men's shirting fabrics, and he whipped up luxe intarsia cardigans and cashmere ponchos. The designer elevated bohemian fringe on satin gowns featuring silk tassel accents, and showed a pleated maxi skirt cut from delicate black Chantilly lace. Traditional outerwear styles including toggle coats and moto-inspired toppers were reinterpreted in rich materials like double-face satin and cozy, bottle-green shearling. Overall, Lippes succeeded with this mature lineup that was full of playful twists.
|
Brittany Adams
|
February 8, 2014
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 256
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/adam-lippes
| 2,014
|
pre-fall
|
Over the four seasons since relaunching his namesake label last February, Adam Lippes has carved out a niche in the designer market for his subtle, sophisticated sportswear, and built up a substantial customer base abroad—more than 50 percent of his sales are international. His first Pre-Fall collection was chock-full of refined fabrics that begged to be touched. An enveloping, reversible cape was cut from ultrasoft double-face cashmere, while eveningwear items including a cocktail dress, full palazzo trousers, and a bracelet-sleeve coat came in sumptuous, raw-edged duchesse satin. Loosely inspired by Balthus' paintings of young women in uniforms, Lippes channeled a schoolgirl vibe with a crepe suspender dress featuring bar-tack stitching, as well as a cozy gray crewneck sweater paired with a pleated leather skirt broken up with panels of gauzy organza. But it was the opulent outerwear here that ultimately stood out. Lippes topped a crisp shirtdress (adorned in delicate pearl closures) with a voluminous shadow fox fur, and belted a terrific navy shearling over a floor-skimming column gown.
|
Brittany Adams
|
December 5, 2013
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 257
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Adam Lippes hit the ground running when he relaunched his namesake label back in February. Now on his third collection, the designer has already established a clean and sophisticated, feminine tone for the brand. And so it seemed like Lippes was throwing us a curveball when he claimed this season's inspiration was lowrider culture—big in Mexico, California, and now Brazil—which revolves around tricked-out cars with flashy paint jobs and dazzling chrome rims, and cholo-chic fashion. But Lippes loosely interpreted the barrio street movement in his own restrained way, showing white double-face satin overalls layered over a slim python bandeau, as well as a boxy T-shirt dress that was cut from the same exotic skin. A standout pair of wide-leg denim trousers was fabricated by embroidering together nubby strips of indigo that were influenced by turn-of-the-twentieth-century African shawls. They were styled with a crisp take on the classic men's guayabera shirt featuring a beautiful drape in back.Elsewhere, Lippes got more adventurous with his reference point. Nodding to racy bucket seats covered in animal skins, he whipped up a structured car coat and ladylike midi skirt in a digital leopard pattern. Meanwhile, a giant lion tattoo print was splashed on a sleek shift dress, and the beast's mane was echoed by appliquéing laser-cut pieces of leather onto an organza miniskirt. These statement makers added interest to the lineup's beautiful basics, including delicate cashmere knits, tailored track pants, and on-trend culottes.
|
Brittany Adams
|
September 8, 2013
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 258
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/adam-lippes
| 2,014
|
resort
|
Things are on the up-and-up for Adam Lippes, who relaunched his career last season with a new namesake collection that was picked up by retailers like Net-a-Porter, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. For Resort, Lippes is continuing to hone his elevated vision of American sportswear. Track pants, which appeared in his first outing, were updated in silk twill featuring an allover floral print inspired by Peter Dayton's bold artwork.Blooms also featured on a tuxedo coat in the form of delicate lace that was bonded with neoprene, then re-embroidered to really pop. Fringe inlays appeared throughout, adding a feminine slink to tiered skirts and slipdresses. Other highlights included wide-legged culottes cut from white leather, as well as a crisp, tailored summer suit, also in white. All in all, this was a tight sophomore outing for Lippes.
|
Brittany Adams
|
May 30, 2013
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 259
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Since buying back the rights to his name and relaunching his label in 2013, Adam Lippes has specialized in understated luxury. Great cashmere sweaters, clean tailoring, a delicate slipdress for evening, lots of navy, black, and neutrals. It's a testament to his confidence and a healthy bottom line that he strayed from the script for Fall with a luscious floral photoprint.Lippes credited the photographer Philip-Lorca diCorcia, whose career he's followed since the early '90s, as the inspiration. "I worked with the florist Putnam and Putnam, and we used diCorcia's lighting for the photo, which we cut up to create the print." It appeared on a zip-front parka and a matching top and skirt, and, more sensationally, on a long, lean pantsuit with a sheer blouse in the same pattern.A certain exuberance was detectable, too, in a pair of wild and woolly sweaters with piles of fringe at the shoulders and down the arms. Hand-knit in L.A., both the pullover and the cardigan required 10 different gauges of wool. They're bound to be popular; Lippes should let it all hang loose more often.But the collection had no shortage of subtler charms: a navy leather hooded trench with a removable quilted lining, tweedy wool-cashmere pants with a killer flare at the hem, suit jackets featuring an elongated cut and a slightly nipped waist. Lippes has his suits made in New York by a men's tailor, and it shows.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 14, 2015
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 260
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2015/adam-lippes
| 2,015
|
pre-fall
|
Adam Lippes, like so many fashion designers, is an architecture buff. He said he was looking at the Japanese architect Kengo Kuma for Pre-Fall. "His work is traditional but modern and simple, like what we're trying to do here," he commented, adding that it's his dream to have Kuma design a home for him. The designer, who relaunched his business 14 months ago, has found fast success; he makes sophisticated American sportswear with a luxurious streak. He treaded lightly on his chosen theme here; the lace back of a cardigan sweater and the ribbon embroidery on a coat echoed the graphic fretwork on Kuma's buildings. Otherwise, this was a collection of elevated essentials. A summery white three-piece pantsuit in quilted trapunto; a sleeveless tunic belted over wide-legged pants with generous inverted pleats at the hem; a long-sleeved sheath dress in midnight blue lace topped by an elongated vest with big, polished brass buttons at the waist. All three looks were elegant, yet retained an easy-to-wear feeling. They had a certain timelessness about them, too, which means they won't date as fast as a lot of the other clothes we've seen for Pre-Fall. In that sense, the collection was very much in the Kuma mold.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 8, 2014
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 261
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Talk about intimate gatherings. This season, Adam Lippes hosted his Spring presentation at his beautiful Greenwich Village apartment overlooking Washington Square Park. The welcoming setting spotlighted the deeply personal approach Lippes has taken toward his namesake label since relaunching it nearly two years ago. As guests could see, Lippes is an avid interior decorator, and his latest lineup was inspired by North African carpets from the turn of the 20th century. He said, "I recently became obsessed with vintage Moroccan rugs. But the question was: How do you do rugs for Spring?"Reinterpreting those textiles in a modern way, Lippes embroidered tuxedo jackets and topcoats with knotted silk tassels that were a playful take on "summer fur." He paired them with relaxed Berber pants, which came in a variety of luxe fabrications including textured silk linen and supple leather (a hot pink pair was particularly noteworthy). A billowing silk caftan, meanwhile, featured a hand-drawn tapestry print that Lippes created with a Sharpie marker.Elsewhere, the designer continued to evolve his sophisticated vision of American sportswear with updated staples, including crisp, oversize shirts; hand-loomed sweaters; and finely tailored suiting. Hands down, the standout look here was a sporty tank gown boasting an elegant plissé skirt cut from more than 20 yards of tightly pleated silk. Slinking across Lippes' parlor floor, it simultaneously conveyed drama and ease and was a smash hit with the designer's fans. "I never say this, but you're the only person who does collections I want 100 percent of," enthused pal Elettra Wiedemann.
|
Brittany Adams
|
September 6, 2014
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 262
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/adam-lippes
| 2,015
|
resort
|
Continuing to evolve his refined vision of American sportswear, Resort found Adam Lippes in a relaxed mood influenced by French visual artist Willy Daro's decorativeobjets, which fuse together natural metals and stones. That inspiration was reflected in the collection's emphasis on organic shapes, particularly evident in easy pieces such as paper-bag-waisted trousers, fluid silk slip or wrap dresses, and soft double-knit merino ponchos. Daro's works also gave rise to the graphic foliage print found on Lippes' boxy, thigh-grazing shift, which would look terrific with a pair of flats. Keeping in mind the season's early November delivery window, Lippes was sure to offer plenty of transitional outerwear to take his customer into the colder months. Highlights included an unconstructed topper cut from ivory wool, backed in duchesse, as well as "monastic," robe-like coats (in either boudoir-ready satin or luxe, brushed cashmere) with open slits along the sides that imparted a dynamic movement. Elsewhere, Lippes continued to elevate denim—a relatively new category that has met with retail success—in the form of boxy chambray tunics and indigo wrap skirts, which communicated an easy elegance that wasn't too fussy.
|
Brittany Adams
|
June 1, 2014
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 263
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
There will come a day whenAdam Lippes’s brand is too big for the presentation he puts on in his beautifully appointed Washington Square home. That will be too bad. Architecture and—especially—interiors are so central to his aesthetic. This morning, he mentioned the British architect Edwin Luytens and designer Gertrude Jekyll, who were known for building and modernizing English estates at the turn of the last century. “What they did still looks modern today,” he said. That’s Lippes’s own trick; he makes luxe clothes that feel of the moment without succumbing to fickle trends.Yes, there were the season’s de rigueur culottes, but they came in a luscious nut brown leather. And sure he had his own spin on the omnipresent bomber jacket, but it was whipped up from a wallpaper floral jacquard. Anyways, the stars of the collection were a pair of dresses that tapped into his singular obsession with interiors. Working off the textiles of the British artisans de Gournay, Lippes designed a black and gold velvet burnout jacquard shirtdress destined for heirloom status. Even more exquisite: a gold-flecked black point d’esprit gown with delicate glass bead wisteria embroidery layered over a black lace slip.As precious as those frocks were, he didn’t ignore his clients’ more quotidian needs. A shearling bonded raw denim coat that was the product of a year’s worth of experiments at the factory would come in handy in the blistering wind of today’s polar vortex. Inside his apartment, with a fire going in the fireplace, you hardly noticed the cold. Other news: A first foray into footwear produced a trompe l’oeil buckle-front pump-slash-thigh-high-boot that sounds complicated, but looked very cool.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 13, 2016
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 264
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/adam-lippes
| 2,016
|
pre-fall
|
Adam Lippessaid he looked upeaseon Thesaurus.com and was surprised to find its synonym wasluxury. And also:peace,quiet, anda lack of difficulty. “I loved that,” he said. “I hope I’m able to translate that with these clothes.” He presented his Pre-Fall lineup in his sunny new NoMad studio, which is lined, unlike most such designer spaces, with antiques he handpicked himself. Multi-ply cashmere sweaters were stacked on a vanity in one corner, and others were neatly folded on a low-slung credenza.Lippes has a great eye, and he brought it to bear on a collaboration with fashion’s go-to florist Miho. She designed a bouquet, and Lippes and co. photographed it and cut up the image to rescale the print. It appeared in micro form on a leather skirt that he spliced with lace, a style that’s been popular this week, and in macro form on a jacquard coat he threw over a silk-lined travel sweatsuit that was decadent and practical at once.Come to think of it, that’s a good way to describe Lippes’s overall approach to sportswear pieces with a special touch. Take his undyed shearling coat. It’s decidedly not inconspicuous, but nothing would keep you warmer. Or the blouson jacket in a look-at-me tiger print that was actually cotton jacquard. So how’d he do on the peace, quiet, and lack of difficulty front? We’d say he’ll have very little trouble finding customers for these clothes.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 7, 2015
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 265
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Walking intoAdam Lippes’s Washington Square apartment presentation is a rareFashion Weektreat. From the breakfast spread to his trio of standard poodles to this season’s piano player, you feel instantly at home. At the very least, you want to move in.Against this exceedingly pleasing backdrop, Lippes presented a fine new collection, one that solidified his reputation for effortless chic, but also found him developing new categories. Lippes said an audacious floral-print suit from hisFall collectionhad something to do with his Spring experiments. He figured its bold color and pattern would render it an outlier. On the contrary, it’s been a total sellout, and its success gave him the license he needed to try a glam white jumpsuit with an outer layer in hand-macraméd silk cord. It’s a feat of engineering and easily the sexiest thing he’s done yet. A strapless black silk faille gown was more demure, but an equally convincing foray into high evening.Still, it’s his polished sportswear that’s been helping him double his business each season, so the big emphasis here was on daywear. Pieces like a 16-ply cashmere sweatshirt accompanied by gold micro plissé pants as comfy as pj’s, a washed denim apron dress thrown over an oversize poplin tee, and slouchy linen track pants teamed with a striped shirt, its elongated tails hanging loose in back. Lippes’s m.o. is refined, but not so much so that it compromises his clothes’ casual factor. Extra credit for the generously proportioned slip dresses in an Agnes Martin–inspired abstract print.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 12, 2015
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 266
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Adam Lippes
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/adam-lippes
| 2,016
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resort
|
With the opening of Cuba to American visitors, it was inevitable that the island country would have a ripple effect on fashion. Adam Lippes used his Resort collection to explore and express his enthusiasm for the place. He went two decades ago, and the trip still lingers in his memory. But Lippes is not a designer who treads heavily in themes; the clothes wore their Cuban influences lightly.His guayabera, for example, looked utterly feminine elongated into a shirtdress and accented with delicate ladder stitching. And the hand-drawn print of jungle flora and fauna was subtle, not overly ripe on a breezy, double-layer dress. Elsewhere, the references were glancing at most. Crocheted knits had the feel of the homespun but remained urbane, and the same went for dresses trimmed with deep swathes of fringe at the hem. Probably the most covetable pieces in the collection, which Lippes says is consistently his biggest of the year, were the leather separates. Extroverts will like the red leather overalls. This introvert preferred the bottle green jacket that cinched at the waist.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 1, 2015
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Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
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| 267
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|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Does American fashion need saving? Adam Lippes takes issue with all the talk surrounding a certain famous Belgian’s arrival at a certain famous New York brand. Lippes’s own American business doubled last year, thank you very much. One look at his new Fall collection, and it’s not hard to see why. Lippes has an eye for divine materials and he elevates his essentials with very special touches.His new collection started as a meditation on the Park Chan-wook filmThe Handmaiden, but took a detour through India when he spent two weeks touring the country over the holidays. He met a pair of brothers in Kashmir who make cashmere blankets, bought as many as he could, and has turned them into the softest robe dress you’ll ever have the pleasure of wearing. A printmaker in Udaipur hand-painted the printed silk Lippes has used for an even more sensational scarf dress; he’s accessorized it with a jeweled shell belt made by jewelry designer Sara Beltran of Dezso. The antique pearl and paste buttons on a peacoat and on a pink and black houndstooth topcoat were sourced in India. There’s not an unlimited supply, so he’s commissioned the shopkeeper for more.Other pieces can’t boast such exotic provenance, but they’re just as lofty. See the chunky cashmere V-neck and matching pants in a pattern lifted fromThe Handmaiden, hand-knit right here in New York City, or the true-blue denim that he’s cut into a shearling-collared jacket and high-waisted culottes. Peeking out from the sleeves of a rosy pink silk velvet pantsuit, or layered underneath a sleeveless leather shift dress, with their deep fluted cuffs, not even his turtlenecks are mundane.An hour or so after his presentation, an editor who follows Lippes’s work remarked, “You know, I think Adam is underappreciated.” This is one homegrown designer whose talent should not be overlooked.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 11, 2017
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 268
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/adam-lippes
| 2,017
|
pre-fall
|
Interiors have proved rich fodder forAdam Lippesalmost since he started his eponymous label. For Pre-Fall, it was Victorian-era drawing rooms and their layers of tapestry murals, animal prints, and velvets that turned him on. The most exquisite material in Lippes’s new collection is a devoré silk velvet with Lurex jacquard spotted like a leopard. He used it for a pair of shirtdresses as easy in cut and line as the fabric was fine. It was a compelling juxtaposition, one that he explored in other pieces in other ways. Take, for instance, a brushed silk cashmere sweatsuit with Victorian puffed short sleeves, the fabric of which was developed by a Japanese mill. We’ve all heard of athleisure; Lippes called this “athluxury,” and one touch and it was clear why.Amidst the muchness, there were quieter, simple staples like khakis, denim trousers in a mélange of washes, clever asymmetric sweaters, and a cool scarf-neck silk blouse. But Lippes’s point of difference is in his terrific eye for print and texture. Also in the mix: a landscape mural jacquard used on a mini, a black and gold lace slip dress, and a fab spotted tigrado lamb coat (the fur also turned up as patch pockets on a hand-knit cardigan). So, would Lippes consider doing interiors on the side? “I’m available,” he laughed, hinting there may be more news on the home design front in 2017.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 5, 2016
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
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| 269
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|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Delicate floral embroidery on a Chantilly lace slip, Rhea americana feathers hand-rolled to achieve a three-dimensional trim on the skirt of a lime green party dress, 14 yards of starburst pleated citron-hued silk on another breezy frock.Adam Lippeshas exquisite taste in materials, and there was no shortage of them in his new Spring collection. He took inspiration from the hand-painted ceramics of the Milanese artisan Costanza Paravicini, specifically a set of plates that were in turn influenced by the botanical drawings that the scientist Sir Hans Sloane made on a trip to Jamaica in the late 17th century.It’s a lyrical backstory that showcases Lippes’s deep appreciation for art and, especially, interiors. It’s resonant also because it set him off in a fresh direction: He took his own trip to Jamaica this season. The deep tiers of ruffles seen on the country’s traditional quadrille dress was multiplied on many of the pieces, spiraling down the outsides of silk trousers, circling the asymmetric neckline of a camisole, and peeking out from the bib of a terrific jumpsuit with generously proportioned pants. Meanwhile, the deep turquoise of a clingy knit dress with verve to spare seemed evocative of the island’s crystalline waters. Lippes’s aforementioned exquisite taste has made him a popular resource for special-occasion clothes; more of the sexy approachability of that knit dress will make him a go-to guy for everyday, too.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 10, 2016
|
Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 270
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||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/adam-lippes
| 2,017
|
resort
|
Adam Lippesspent weeks on the road this spring, visiting department stores and spending time with salespeople and customers. He said it put a question in his mind when designing Resort: “Can I sell this?” That sounds straightforward enough as to be obvious, right? Actually, it’s a point that seems regularly overlooked in some corners of the New York fashion world. Years in the design room atOscar de la Rentataught Lippes the importance of brand identity. As concerned as he sounds about the bottom line this season, he didn’t play it safe. Rather, he seemed interested in stirring things up a bit.See: the emphasis on shocking pink and black-and-white zebra stripes. The former was put to electric use on a Chantilly lace dress and matching under-slip; the latter turned up on a terrific intarsia shearling, among other pieces. One look combined a black-and-white zebra jacket with a red-and-navy zebra T-shirt dress—full-on and casually fab. Bright yellow leather pants super-full to the ankle was another brave move that looked good with a navy ribbed knit with bell sleeves. As gutsy as all of those items are, Lippes didn’t ignore the more decorous aspects of his aesthetic. Case in point was a burnout silk and velvet dress dyed a rich panoply of different colors. It’ll sell. In fact, it will be hard to find a prettier dress this season.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2016
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 271
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Adam Lippes held his Fall presentation at his new place in Brooklyn Heights. We won’t reveal too much about the interiors—there are magazines lining up to do that. Just a word about the paint job: The lovely, soft shade of pink on the walls is Farrow & Ball’s Setting Plaster, and Lippes worked with the paint company on the shade “for months.” That detail’s relevant because Lippes and his team (which other designer calls out assistants by name on his press release?) spend the same kind of time and care developing the exquisite fabrics in his ready-to-wear collections.The focus of their efforts for Fall was Scotland, but it wasn’t merely a reference point. Lippes typically makes much of his clothing in the States; this time he went to the source—or actually they came to him. The Harris Tweed company’s iconic label is stitched below his own on an exceptional coat made from tweed woven with black lace. The lively silk plaid print of a button-down and matching skirt is special in a different way; Lippes trimmed the skirt in a dark-rinse denim, giving it a hardier sensibility than it would’ve otherwise had. His Fair Isles were knit from the loftiest, lightest cashmere; ditto a patchwork paneled crewneck and matching midi skirt. As for the horse print, it was inspired by a tapestry that once belonged to Scotland’s King James V, but it was hand-painted right here in Lippes’s New York City atelier. The wordsofthardly does justice to the touchable, luminous gold silk velvet and pale aquamarine silk of Lippes’s lightly waisted dresses. They’re the sartorial equivalent of his wonderful new home.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 10, 2018
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
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| 272
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Adam Lippes
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Adam Lippes has recently hired a distributor in Japan; his business is expanding. The new relationship got him thinking: Though he’s never been to the country, he’s long harbored an interest in its culture, from the furniture to the food. Why not celebrate it in a collection? Why not, indeed. The obsessiveness for detail associated with Japan lines up well with Lippes’s own—see the vintage Japanese buttons he’s collected to accessorize his sharp tailoring and shirting, each one delicately hand-painted in enamel.Of course, Lippes is a maker of American sportswear; he likes denim, he coined the termathluxuryfor his deluxe sweats, and he knows his way around a slip dress. So his idea here was to take familiar American codes and filter them through a Japanese lens. The process produced a rich collection with a lot of variety. A satin bomber was quilted (a very American technique) with floral Japonica using vintage kimono scraps, while a 1950s-ish party dress—fitted bodice, full skirt—was stitched with smaller versions of those quilted flowers. A reversible coat and culottes in a jacquard that reproduced a Japanese screen scene (quite grand) hung on the rails side by side with silk jersey bodysuits (athletic). Best of all were the East-West denim mash-ups, among them a fitted skirt made from vintage shibori-dyed textiles from Burkina Faso (which apparently adopted the traditional Japanese process) and loose-fitting pants in checked indigo linen. There was also acid-wash denim (an American invention, surely) on a kimono-style jacket. As for finally making that trip to Japan, Lippes has his sights set on April. “For the flowers.”A word about the sublime white silk dress made from one piece of fabric and knotted at the neck: It would make a lovely wedding dress for a bride on any continent.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2017
|
Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 273
|
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Adam Lippes
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Adam Lippesis working with a Madagascar entrepreneur who’s established a factory that supplies knits to Christian Dior and Hermès. That’s good company to be in. As their names suggest, the sweaters that are the result of the new partnership are extremely fine: tissue-thin cashmeres with pointelle flower detailing and delicate trims, in both crew- and turtleneck styles. Lippes said that the Madagascar factory funds a local orphanage. The knits are a look-good-do-good opportunity, but even absent the charity component they’d be a hit. A retailer at his presentation took a guess at prices, and Lippes surprised her when he said they’ll sell for half of what she predicted.“It all starts with fabrics for me,” said Lippes, as he thumbed through a rack in his elegantly appointed Brooklyn home. That same Madagascar factory is responsible for the elaborate embroidery on a charming red organza dress that looked like heirloom napkins sewn together. As withPre-Fall, Lippes took the cues for his rich materials from Studio Peregalli, the Italian architecture and design firm known for its poetic mix of time periods, cultures, colors, and textures. Of special note was the deep red paisley he used for a pleated skirt with placement prints at the hem and a hooded coat—treated to be water repellant, he noted.Luxury has long been essential to the Lippes aesthetic, but more and more he’s considering the social and ecological implications of his business. The mink collar on his trim cashmere peacoat is made from upcycled fur, for example. But he also has an answer for occasions that call for pure fabulousness. This season that would be the black tie–worthy red silk jumpsuit.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 10, 2019
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 274
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||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/adam-lippes
| 2,019
|
pre-fall
|
Adam Lippes visited the Tangier home of interior designer Roberto Peregalli this summer and was instantly smitten. Its poetic mix of textures, deep colors, and time periods were on his mind as he worked on his vivid Pre-Fall collection, which ranged from a boyish cotton jumpsuit to a Met Gala–worthy double chiffon long dress, without a wrong note.The centerpiece of the new lineup is an electric abstract photo print of which Studio Peregalli would surely approve. Lippes photographed a bouquet by Putnam & Putnam—his go-to florist—on expired 35-millimeter film and used the best blurry shot, printing it small on a narrow double silk skirt and blown up on a weightless techno fabric trench. The woman who wears them will be unmissable, but color was exuberant throughout. Most memorable: the warm shade of reddish copper he used for a smocked off-the-shoulder taffeta dress in an easy silhouette that will have his customers ordering in multiples (it’s also available in black). The same hue turned up on a dress with thin shoulder straps and a swingy trapeze volume—another summery winner—as well as on a long, lean pant suit in a cotton-wool blend that reminded the designer of his youthful Brooks Brothers suits.Lippes is expanding his tailoring repertoire. Of note beyond the suiting were the flattering paperbag-waist pants that he showed in black leather and a dark-wash Japanese denim. Also interesting on the more casual side of the offering was a chunky cardigan in a cozy shade of brown with mink pockets upcycled from vintage fur coats. From one end to the other, spot on.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 6, 2018
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 275
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|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Not long after New York Fashion Week wraps, Adam Lippes is hitting the road with his Fall collection. He’ll visit 16 cities across the U.S. and also do London. All that legwork pays off. Lippes knows his woman; he’s not chasing trends. In fact, business is going so well he’s shopping around for real estate on Madison Avenue. After he opens a boutique in New York, San Francisco will be next.So, just who is the Adam Lippes woman? The designer says she wants luxury, she loves color, and she has a real curiosity about materials. There was no shortage of very special ones in his new collection, from the substantial satin back crepe of a shift—any heavier and the fabric would become stiff, Lippes said—to the silk and linen milled in England that he used for tailoring. Speaking of color, that silk linen took it beautifully, as evidenced by the deep berry shade of a pair of full-leg trousers and the honey gold of a chicly cut pantsuit.Lippes spent his August vacation in Tangier, Morocco. A photograph of the city’s flower stalls was reproduced on a sleeveless sheath and a short ruffled frock à la Cristóbal, the latter of which was shown with matching over-the-knee boots made in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. Across the ocean, a festival in the Guatemalan town of Todos Santos Cuchumatán provided the inspiration for shirting inset with macramé lace, usually in contrasting colors. Really, it felt like there was a story behind every piece. That’s going to go over well with Lippes’s women when he takes this collection on a store tour next spring.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 8, 2018
|
Adam Lippes
|
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] | 1
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 276
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/adam-lippes
| 2,019
|
resort
|
Most designers these days name-check millennials and book them for their Insta campaigns. Not Adam Lippes. Though he recently dressed the very excellent millennial Phoebe Waller-Bridge, the English actress, writer, director, and producer, for the L.A. premiere ofSolo: A Star Wars Story,for Resort Lippes quoted the style of elegant octogenarian and medical philanthropist Deeda Blair. In our youth-obsessed moment that takes a certain audacity, but Lippes has the confidence of conviction; bucking the industry trend, his business is up.Blair’s impeccable style informed his new collection: Her taste in flowers is reflected in the prints, and her favorite color, the palest lilac, turned up on a cashmere sweatshirt and a Chantilly lace gown, among other pieces. But more than her manner of dress, what moves Lippes is Blair’s exacting sensibility, developed over decades of wearing couture. “She’s taught me things about construction,” Lippes said. A similar appreciation for the finer things infused his new lineup, from the Loro Piana wool-silk blend of a plaid sheath to a sharply tailored blazer cut from burgundy double wool milled in Italy at Marini & Cecconi. The bronze panne velvet of a boatneck shell-and-trouser set was deliciously rich while remaining understated. The rare exception to the luxurious austerity of this collection was the rather fabulous fringing on a double trench and a tuxedo blazer, leather in the first case and silk in the second. Cleverly, that fringe is removable, a detail that the disciplined Deeda would no doubt appreciate.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 5, 2018
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 277
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|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
“When everyone is saying that New York Fashion Week is dead, it seems like the perfect time to show,” said Adam Lippes, who hosted breakfast and his first-ever sit-down show this morning at Veronika, the new Roman and Williams–designed restaurant in the Swedish photography center and museum Fotografiska. It was a lavish spread at a moment when other designers of his ilk seem to be in retreat, but if Lippes has a contrarian streak when it comes to business, he makes some of fashion’s most comely clothes.His new collection was inspired by an enchanted visit to the garden of Umberto Pasti in Rohuna, Morocco. He’s hardly alone in his penchant for flowers, of course; it’s the manner in which he reproduces them that elevates his designs. He used a lovely silk fil coupe—its gold and yellow threads vibrant against a white background—for a frothy evening smock with ruffles at the neck and cuffs, and fulsome blossoms were placement-printed above the hem of a willowy long-sleeve dress. Special but not precious is a good way to think about what Lippes does. A lavish metallic floral jacquard was cut into a hooded coat, a rather unexpected silhouette for so fine a material. He said he was confident it would be one of his best sellers.Lippes spends weeks each season doing trunk shows around the country, where he gets to know his customers and their likes and dislikes. His own design agenda found him advancing his tailoring. His jackets have taken on a bolder, boxier shape with prominent shoulders; these he showed with A-line midi skirts. Or else he cut cropped bolero styles and paired them with pleated full-leg pants. Also new for the designer: a stunning and quite sexy wrap-neck evening column in black, with shades of the beautiful Catherine Deneuve inIndochine. This collection was proof positive that New York fashion is thriving.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 8, 2020
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 278
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,020
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
A new home in Brooklyn precipitated a studio move for Adam Lippes. He’s in the process of installing himself and his team in the 33rd floor of a tower downtown, perched high above City Hall. He used the place to stage his first show. It’s been stripped down to drywall, and just days ago, loose wires were dangling from the ceiling, but as usual, Lippes laid out the Sant Ambroeus treats and filled vases with fresh-cut flowers, in this case, luscious dahlias from his house in the Berkshires. He creates spaces that people feel good in, and the same goes for his clothes.Discussing the collection he said, “I wanted joy, fun, and color.” All three are very much in Lippes’s repertoire, but he upped the ante here. “Women need a reason to buy,” he said, “there has to be a spark.” He went about lighting it by exploring mid-century couture volumes. Waterproof coats had trapeze swing, a shift dress worn with Bermuda shorts boasted a Watteau-ish back, and a citrine gown looked positively Cristóbalian. Proudly noting that it was sewn here in New York, Lippes pointed out that the pleating detail at the bustline was created by twisting the fabric around matchsticks then tacking it down. Elsewhere, the ivory opera cape tied with a black satin bow had an irresistible flamboyance.His tailoring, by contrast, was more subdued, but the trim blazers and sunray pleat midi skirts looked particularly of the moment. Same with those aforementioned Bermuda shorts worn with voluminous tops. Lippes isn’t a designer who bothers much with trends though. He’s motivated more by his personal passions. Interiors are central among them. He hired the ceramicist Costanza Paravicini to paint this season’s botanical print, which also appeared embroidered in translucent sequins on a floor-length white dress. Lots of sparks. He’ll be retailing the shoes and boots, which he made in collaboration with Sergio Rossi.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 7, 2019
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 279
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/adam-lippes
| 2,020
|
resort
|
Adam Lippes came across his muse serendipitously this season. At first, he fell for the British painter Hannah Gluckman’s flowers. It wasn’t until he began researching Gluck, as she was called, that he learned she was a gender non-conformist who wore her hair cropped short and sported jackets and ties just as often as fancy lace and jacquard frocks. The chance discovery produced a rich collection that spanned the gamut from menswear-inflected tailoring (more than usual for this designer) to delicate dresses. Lippes doesn’t wear his politics on his sleeve, but he very much believes in inclusivity.These clothes will charm the women he spends weeks on the road cultivating at the country’s best stores. He says customers are savvier than ever about fabrics, and he’s developed some beauties. Consider the variety of lace on offer, from the most ephemeral Chantilly to successively more substantial mohair-embroidered lace and corded lace stitched with silk. Consider the range of knits he’s had made in Madagascar, from fine to lofty, including polo and crewneck cashmeres intarsia’d in a discreet “A” pattern. And consider the long dress made from burnout gold silk velvet re-embroidered with tiny silver threads. There hasn’t been a more captivating material this season.As for the tailoring, which season by season becomes a bigger part of his business, Lippes likes the look of full, slightly flared culottes. He cut them in myriad fabrics and paired them with knee-high boots dripping in silk fringe—a surprising, kicky combination. Volumes were likewise effusive on two other looks: a blush pink jumpsuit paired with a matching pouf-sleeve shirt and an oversize white tuxedo shirt buttoned to the neck and worn with black pants. That last look seems particularly Gluck-ian. In a world that’s increasingly intolerant of difference, it was satisfying to see her through Lippes’s eyes.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2019
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 280
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Optimism is a word we’ll no doubt hear a lot about this season, but for Adam Lippes, it’s not just empty talk. He’s optimistic enough to be opening his first-ever store in a few weeks time. Lippes has chosen a spot in New York’s Brookfield Place mall where Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci will number among his neighbors, and he plans to stock the space with a selection of antiques, books, and other small gifts, alongside his ready-to-wear and his recently launched jewelry line. Where others see limitations, he’s made opportunities. The new store and an optimized e-commerce site, he says, “have given me the freedom to design more with our woman in mind.”As a function of the pandemic his fall collection is smaller than usual, but it isn’t any less buoyant. He worked with Putnam & Putnam, his favorite florist, on a poppy print—poppies signify hope—and he used the same bright shade of red for both a hand-quilted cropped leather jacket and the men’s trousers in wool and silk that it was worn with. Color played a starring role here; those pants were also cut in chartreuse and accompanied by a bow-neck blouse in thin purple and white stripes.“Knit dressing, it’s been everything,” he said of the last 11 months. Keeping his woman in mind, there’s a marled cashmere turtleneck and a matching skirt, as well as a striped ribbed knit dress in cotton: comfortable but sexy, not sloppy. His tailored jackets have slightly oversized proportions for similar easy-to-wear reasons, and he joked that a double layer silk crepe and silk charmeuse dress was relaxed enough to slip into bed in at the end of the night. The collection’s most hopeful looks were the two ’80s-ish cocktail frocks—one in the poppy print and the other in black silk bouclé—whose hems barely grazed the knees. Bare legs, party dresses! What fun!
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 16, 2021
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 281
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2021/adam-lippes
| 2,021
|
pre-fall
|
Adam Lippes is opening a boutique in lower Manhattan early this year, reversing the trend of store closures we’re seeing elsewhere. When this collection starts shipping to his new shop in mid June, he’s hoping his customers are going out again—or at least feeling ready to go out.But will they be ready to get out of their sweatpants? That’s fashion’s million-dollar question in 2021. Once we’re finally sprung free from a year in lockdown, will women crave excess and exhibitionism, or will they shrink from it? The answer is probably both, but there’s one thing that Lippes is betting on: “I think women have gotten used to being comfortable,” he said from his showroom, which is a convenient walk from that soon-to-be store. “Our internal challenge is how to engage them.”To start, he met the challenge by thinking differently about materials. A Japanese denim, for example, was dyed an unexpected shade of light pink here in New York, and cut into sailor-front pants and a matching sleeveless peplum top, while a black denim button-down and pencil skirt were treated to Swarovski pearl buttons. An Italian jacquard with no fewer than 12 different colors of yarns—the sort of thing one might’ve once used for a fancy dress—was cut into Bermuda shorts and a safari jacket.Other pieces more straightforwardly emphasized a sense of ease. A pretty printed silk dress in shades of blue and white fell gracefully to the ankles from a softly elasticized waist, and a white silk crepe dress with vintage buttons accenting its single sleeve was caftan-like in attitude. Not a hint of excess anywhere. That said, Lippes isn’t opposed to a flash of legs. His take on the shorter silhouette we’re starting to see around town came in A-line white denim with those special vintage buttons.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 8, 2021
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 282
|
|||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Adam Lippes did not idle away his time in lockdown. His spring lookbook features a new range of semi-precious and enameled 24-karat gold plated jewelry that he made with a small family-run factory in Rhode Island. The signet rings, wrist cuffs, exuberant floral earrings, and pillbox charms worn on substantial gold chains mix and match with his new ready-to-wear, but they’re designed to age well—Lippes calls them “forever pieces.” The enameled pillbox charms, for instance, are inspired by his own collection of antiques.The last six months have reshaped Lippes’s thinking about his label, or at least the way he approached the new season. “Where did we start? What was our ethos? We asked ourselves those questions,” he said over a Zoom call. The concepts he rallied around include refinement and comfort, luxury and ease. “We’re in a business to make and sell more, but the world is telling us to make and sell less,” he added.Think of this collection, then, as “The Condensed Adam Lippes.” Focused mostly on daywear, the 16 looks span tailoring, shirt dresses and slip dresses, and knits. But if these are AL essentials, they aren’t basics; each piece has a special flourish. The jacket is finished with double-face silk ribbons at the waistband to adjust its silhouette, the smocking on a ruffled white shirt features subtle tone-on-tone embroideries, and the slip dress is cut in a heavy French silk and suspended from delicate silk cording.All these clothes reward close inspection. The pandemic may continue to make once taken-for-granted intimacies—lunch with a friend, a dinner party—difficult or impossible well into 2021. But Lippes reports his customers are telling him they want to dress up again, even if only for themselves. In that regard, a top and pants in a blue Japanese sweatshirting material bonded with black guipure lace looked especially well-suited to this moment.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 13, 2020
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 283
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
“How can we push our fabrics even further?” That’s the mission Adam Lippes set himself for fall. He’s always prioritized luxurious textiles, but at a showroom appointment earlier this week he rattled off the names of top European mills, an IYKYK list that included Taroni for a wafty hand-pleated coral silk dress, Luigi Verga for a printed silk wool pantsuit, and the cashmere makers at the small family-owned Filati Biagioli. That cashmere is a good place to start. This is not the quick-to-pill one-ply stuff you see at stores up and down Broadway, but thick, lofty yarn, knitted in a three-dimensional basketweave stitch. The sweaters, vests, and short skirts made from the stuff are finished with Swarovski pearls, fitting embellishments for the treasures they are.Lippes is adding to his range at the other end of the spectrum, too. In December, he launched Franger, a collection of fine athleisure, and the turtlenecks used as layering pieces here underneath pieces like a crisp white cotton shirt and a floral print ankle-length dress are pulled from that line. Redefining casual for a post-pandemic world is one of the season’s emerging themes. Lippes’s take on the look includes slightly oversize camp shirts with matching bralettes—the twinset, reimagined—that he paired with banded edge wrap skirts or wide-leg trousers. Though he’s better known for dressier fare, he cuts a smart pair of pants.About those dresses. For the Lippes customer who already has a closetful, he’s dreamed up some new proportions. A long-sleeve, banded seam blush silk dress softly belted with ribbon had a subtle, understated elegance, as did a blue dress in the same silk whose collar was finished with one of those Swarovski pearls. An embroidered slip dress had a more familiar silhouette, but with a special detail in the form of a Chantilly lace lining. “Nobody lines dresses in Chantilly lace,” Lippes laughed. “Who does that?” He does.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 16, 2022
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 284
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Adam Lippes discovered Natasja Sadi on Instagram. He shares a passion for flowers with the Dutch couturier-turned baker-turned floral designer, and when they hit it off over a two-hour Zoom she agreed to collaborate for his new spring collection. The prints on a button-front shirt and matching full skirt and a tiered trapeze slip dress are collaged from the photos Sadi takes of her arrangements, which feature both real flowers and sugar ones. Lippes won’t let that charming detail go unappreciated when he takes to the road with this collection later this month. He has stores in over a dozen US cities on his itinerary. In the age of e-commerce, that kind of personal attention can make a difference to a shopper.She might also learn that the embroidery of a Delftware vase and flowers on a sleeveless ivory dress took upwards of 150 hours to complete. That the delicate lace collars on Lippes’s menswear shirts were inspired by an antique Dutch bonnet sampler. Or that Albertus Swanepoel is the milliner responsible for the deeply brimmed bucket hats designed to coordinate back to the clothes.Lippes is hopeful for a spring 2021 that is, if not Zoom-free, then at least more in-person than most of 2020 has been. He can make a special occasion out of a button-down—see those Dutch collared men’s shirts. Elsewhere there were exceedingly well-cut cuffed trousers in navy of copper, in a week that has so far been short on that subject. But the collection leaned dressy, and clients with a big event on the calendar will have their pick of pretty frocks. Of particular note is a princess dress in butter yellow silk taffeta worn with flat sandals by Manolo Blahnik. Like his collaborator Nastasja Sadi, Lippes has a gorgeous eye for color.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 9, 2021
|
Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 285
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/adam-lippes
| 2,022
|
resort
|
We’ve been talking about reemergence for months now, since well before the fall “shows” took place via Zoom appointments and look book reveals in February. Those collections were hopeful, but perhaps a bit tentative. Few of us had been vaccinated at that point and case numbers were still threatening to increase. Fast forward to the resort collections now taking place and the collective optimism is a lot more convincing.New York state’s positivity rate is down, and sales are up. That helps. So does the backdrop of a city coming alive again. Everywhere you go, people are reveling, and they’re dressing up to do it. Adam Lippes tapped into that energy for a resort collection designed for “going out again.” The rack that greets visitors at his new showroom is lined with party clothes: a gold Lurex fringe slip dress as glittery and weightless as tinsel, a draped long dress with a peekaboo bodice in black Chantilly lace, a candy pink taffeta gown with a sculpted neckline. Even the jewelry knows how to have a good time. The rectangular locket in many of the look book pictures holds a pair of dice.Reemerging means more than cocktails and galas, of course. Lippes’s blazers have become a go-to for Dr. Jill Biden since her husband took office; last week she wore an icy blue version aboard Air Force One along with a matching sheath. The first lady sheath dress mingles with corduroy bombers and flares; the silk charmeuse pajama sets he developed during the pandemic that he’s keeping in the mix; double-face cashmere in the form of a tunic, a lapel-less jacket, and a hooded camel coat; and a draped bodice, nipped waist dress he calls the Waterfall that one client liked so much she ordered it in 16 different colors. How could his mood not be up?
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 3, 2021
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 286
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|||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Adam Lippes opted out the runway this season, like several other New York brands. Speaking to Vogue Business, he said: “My biggest goal is to protect my employees and their jobs... Is now the best time to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on a show, or would it be better to put that money into something else?” Lippes is indeed working on “something else”; he’ll open a new store in 2023, and eight more are planned over the next three years.Strategic talk aside, the showroom is a more than satisfactory place to discover the designer’s new collection; his fabrics have to be touched to be believed. This season, the quilted silk of an evening coat, each tiny stitch made by hand, was the most extraordinary fabric on the racks, but there were others that were quite special, too, be it the double-face silk duchesse in a shade or rich bordeaux that he used for a cutout-bodice gown, or the vivid citrine-hued silk wool of a sleeveless sheath punctuated with crystal buttons on the bodice. The striped shirtings may look like cotton broadcloth from a distance, but close inspection reveals that they’re actually silk, some shot through with metallic thread.Vita Sackville-West’s Sissinghurst garden was the loose inspiration, but Lippes is an avid gardener himself; season in and season out, he can be counted on for a lovely floral motif. Fall’s combines roses and delphinium on a black ground and appears printed on easy cotton sundresses and embroidered in subtly spectacular fashion on an evening jacket shown with a high-neck lace blouse and a narrow pencil skirt cut to the season’s trending midi-length. Trends, though, are not really Lippes’s thing; he prefers to think about what he does as “forever clothes.” A coat with short, puffed sleeves in the zibeline cashmere he’s made a signature more than qualifies.In keeping with the gardening theme, Lippes enlisted the New York City milliner Rodney Patterson for a few hats after their spring 2023 collaboration proved to be a surprise hit. Their prodigious shapes added a playful layer to this charming collection.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 17, 2023
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
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| 287
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Adam Lippes
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Collections inspired by designers’ travels have been few and far between these last two years. When the pandemic closed borders, fashion turned inward; horizons narrowed and we lived in loungewear. Designer Adam Lippes had the good fortune to go exploring again earlier this year, and a two week trip to Egypt provided him not just with inspiration—he sketched the country’s native flowers for this season’s prints—but also with new production partners. The fine cottons he used here were produced by Hesni, the country’s oldest mill, and he partnered with Threads of Hope, a Cairo organization that employs refugees, to create some of the embroideries.This doesn’t read like a destination collection of old, however. Lippes’s vocabulary is well-defined; his work is rooted in American sportswear and he knows his way around a pretty party dress. This outing delivered on both of those fronts. If you didn’t know the exquisite tapestry linen-silk blend of a crop top and full skirt were influenced by Egyptian architectural details, you would’ve simply assumed they came out of Lippes’s avowed love for interiors. Other notably lovely textiles included the ivory silk leno weave of the show’s opening look, a material whose delicacy belies its strength, and the blanket stripe linen of a poncho worn over cuffed khaki trousers, a swaggering outfit. A sundress in a vivid red and a camp shirt and bikini top set in deep brown were hand-crocheted in Kenya.Lippes presented his collection along the Hudson not far from his New York store on a day that threatened rain. With the sun briefly shining, the soft breezes ruffling the hems of an ankle-length dress in peach cotton voile and another in cornflower-print silk crepe reinforced what a pleasure his clothes are to wear. Any one of the white dresses would make a wonderful alternative to the traditional wedding gown, but the embroidered tulle number with the pin-tucked bodice was a real beauty.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 13, 2022
|
Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 288
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,024
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
If you think Adam Lippes’s fall 2024 images look different, you’re not wrong. The designer celebrated the 10-year anniversary of his company with a dinner for friends, family, and some notable fellow designers at the beginning of New York Fashion Week, and he’s entering his next decade with big ambitions, starting with the way he communicates about the brand. To do so, he brought on a new creative team, who made a more editorial set of photos. The pictures will do the job for which they were intended: attract people who haven’t been paying attention to this small-ish New York label and raise its profile.For those already apprised of Lippes’s obsession with textiles, the care with which his studio creates their own prints, or the elegant lines of his tailoring, sorry to break it to you: Your fashion secret weapon won’t be a secret for long. But here’s a ray of light: “I pushed fabrics this season to the level where I really feel like I’m a fabric designer,” he said at the photo shoot for this collection. “We keep pushing the construction, too, but in a way that’s understandable. We want to make forever clothes.”A sleeveless dress was cut in a navy double-face cashmere that was last used by Dior Couture in 1999, he said—how’s that for forever for you? Or consider the collection’s sweaters: One was in a gray cashmere brushed to resemble downy mohair and embellished with crystals, like something out of a grandmother’s treasure chest. Another was embroidered Fair Isle–style not with yarn, but with organic feathers (meaning they are found, not plucked).The waterproof wool silk blend used for a trench as well as a double-breasted pantsuit was striking: sturdy in a way that could stand up to the elements and any challenge you may come across. Another suit was cut from a nubby black and white tweed, proper and playful in equal measure. “The collection is the same, our position is the same; I think we really built that,” he said, “but I want to twist it a little bit.” Speaking of playful, the skirts will be sold with lace and tulle underskirts, some studded with crystals that can be mixed and matched or worn solo.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 14, 2024
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 289
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/adam-lippes
| 2,024
|
pre-fall
|
The Adam Lippes label turns 10 in 2024. It’s a milestone worth celebrating in what’s otherwise a difficult moment for independent brands. The festivities will start with the February opening of a new store in Houston, his second after New York City. Lippes is headed down to Texas before the end of this year; he’s made dresses for both mom and daughters for a deb party there, and he’ll squeeze in some time to work on the new boutique—building a brand is a hands-on endeavor for this designer.That’s a fine segue to talk about this new pre-fall collection. “We’re paring back a little and focusing just on the luxury of the fabrics and the silhouettes,” Lippes said at a showroom appointment. The allure of his clothes really does start with the way they feel to the touch. Here, that goes as much for a summery hand-twisted bra top and matching midi skirt in a dark chocolate liquid silk jersey as it does for a platinum-hued recycled silk duchesse strapless sack gown with hand-embroidered beading.As for Lippes’s pre-fall shapes, they tend to be roomy and away-from-the-body, the kinds of things you reach for on summer’s hottest days. His new pants shape comes in Japanese cotton with an elastic waist and full legs that taper to the ankle. Though there are other more fitted styles, like a calf-length pencil skirt in butter yellow with crystal buttons dyed to match, for women who prefer clothes that hug them. His fine eye for detail and commitment to craft was showcased on the smocked and embroidered neckline and cuffs of a lovely long dress in that same soft shade of yellow.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 12, 2023
|
Adam Lippes
|
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Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
| 0
| 290
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Adam Lippes
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,024
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ready-to-wear
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spring
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Adam Lippes is spending a lot of time in Texas. He’s set to open his second store in Houston in October, the first of 18 openings planned for the next five years, and last Friday he was in Dallas, where he was the guest designer at Neiman Marcus’s annual Crystal Charity Ball and fashion show. It meant he missed the chance to put his new spring collection on the runway in New York, but why not go where the customers are? He toldVogue Businessthat 15% of his client base lives in the Lone Star State.Lippes has long made store visits part of his business plan. Earlier this year, he was on the road more than not, and at a showroom appointment before his trip, he said they’re as much listening tours as they are about selling. “I kept hearing my customers say, ‘Your clothes make me feel so good,’ so we drilled in on that in the studio, asking ourselves how to keep giving them that feeling, how we keep creating what they call their ‘go-to’ pieces,” he said.The answer starts with fabrics, like the double-face duchesse silk from Taroni of a trapeze; the Belgian linen of a timeless shirtdress; the Chantilly lace of an evening number, pleated and gathered and hand-smocked at the waist; and the vibrant madras of a three-piece set consisting of a camp shirt, bandeau top, and smocked-waist skirt (madras being a budding trend at NYFW). The floral motif on a silk crepe skirt was inspired by Danish wallpaper and painted by hand in Lippes’s studio. “It’s a super old-fashioned way of doing things,” he said, delighting in the fact. It will be screen-printed in production.In the showroom, a table stacked with knits was especially tempting, from the loftiest hand-knit cashmere sweaters to charming crocheted shift dresses to slinky silk-and-metal-thread ribbed slips. On the runway, the spirit of the collection was fancier than usual. Lippes said it was because of the setting in which it was shown, and indeed one of the bestsellers was a strapless mint green gown with sprays of flowers hand-embroidered neckline to hem with beads and crystals. “There’s no price resistance for anything unique and special,” he said.That goes for Texas and beyond, presumably, and he didn’t leave his New York–iest clients out of the conversation—see the black radzimir tuxedo worn with a quilted silk vest at the end of this slideshow.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 11, 2023
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Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 291
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||
Adam Lippes
|
pre-fall-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2025/adam-lippes
| 2,025
|
pre-fall
|
Adam Lippes is in growth mode. He’s got a salon-style store on Fifth Avenue that’s redefining luxury shopping and a growing list of boutiques here in the US and in Japan. But it’s not just on the retail front where change is happening. With this pre-fall collection he’s experimenting with new pattern-making techniques, cutting shirts and dresses from circles, squares, and rectangles, which adds an element of avant-garde artsiness to his soigné aesthetic. It’s an exciting development.The new shapes were inspired by a trip to Sicily where the summertime heat affirmed the usefulness of roomy silhouettes cut away from the body. There’s also an emphasis on fabrics with a dry, crisp hand, like the cotton organdy he used for a sleek chocolate brown trench and a voluminous honey-colored jacket, shown belted in the lookbook. Clicking through these pictures you’ll notice ruffled skirts with asymmetric hemlines; on one side they dip to the ankles and on the other they inch above the knee—that’s another way to capture the airy feeling he was going for.The painterly flower print that appears on a generously proportioned caftan is inspired by the rhododendron bushes that grow so lavishly in Sicily, while a diamond print motif (not featured in the lookbook) is a reference to the 18th century Palazzo Castelluccio. Lippes mentioned that it’s also a nod to his redesigned logo, which can be seen elsewhere, on a peekaboo evening dress embroidered in a crosshatch of gold beads, the glammest fishing net you ever did see. For those not island bound, he cut some cool baggy jeans in Japanese denim. Next year promises even more big news here; Lippes hinted at a category launch in mid-2025—lots to look forward to.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
December 11, 2024
|
Adam Lippes
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Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 292
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Adam Lippes
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/adam-lippes
| 2,025
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Adam Lippes held his spring 2025 appointments in his new salon off Fifth Avenue, steps from Central Park. The space once was occupied by Donna Summer. He’ll live across the foyer in even grander room that used to belong to Adolfo, the designer to Nancy Reagan. In a busy week of shows and presentations up and down Manhattan and across the river in Brooklyn, it made for a delightful interlude. There was a Sant’Ambroeus lunch spread, and for a repeat visit when the fashion month rush is over, a well-stocked bar, a stack of books, and a fireplace. Oh, and he’ll have a sales team and seamstresses on site; though it’s officially a by-appointment operation, he says the door will always be open. He already has a store downtown, launched bravely in the early days of reopening post-pandemic. But this private experience is something new for him—and for New York City. There’s been a lot of talk about a return to retail, but not much in the way of innovation on the sales floor. “I built the brand one-on-one, and this is a luxurious way to shop,” he said.Lippes’s new spring collection looked at home in the beautiful space: serene and lovely, but not retiring. As tempting as it might be to linger in the hushed embrace of his new salon, Lippes’s clients lead busy, active lives, and he designs for them. The first piece he pulled off a rack was a jean jacket, cropped and boxy with gold buttons featuring his freshly redesigned logo, made from hand-loomed, stonewashed Japanese denim. It looked refined but not without a sense of cool. That’s a hard balance, and it’s one that Lippes just keeps getting better at. He had downtown editor types cooing over a black double-satin evening coat with a removable hood, a lean-line silk crepe shirtdress with delicate broderie anglaise, a 1930s-ish dress in butter yellow bias silk with twisted shoulder details, and an exceptional tunic-length tank of hand-cut mother of pearl teardrop beads worn with full-legged utility pants. The most luscious material of all was the mulberry silk he used for both a bouclé skirt suit in palest lilac and a knitted tank, shown in black in the lookbook belted over another midi-skirt. “It’s the finest silk in the world,” he pointed out. Chez Adam Lippes of course it is.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 11, 2024
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 293
|
||
Adam Lippes
|
resort-2025
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/adam-lippes
| 2,025
|
resort
|
Construction is underway in a new uptown retail space for Adam Lippes, though retail isn’t quite the way to put it. Rather than opening another store—Houston, which bowed in May, was his second after a boutique in Brookfield Place in lower Manhattan—Lippes is creating a by-appointment salon, a place to engage one-on-one with his clothes and enjoy his well-curated world.Anyone unfamiliar with his decorating sensibilities need only open this month’sArchitectural Digest. If the new space is anything like his Berkshires home, which was photographed for the magazine in its high summer splendor, it will be a place his clients want to linger—if not move in. He reports that the feature in AD has prompted some inquiries about his availability as an interior decorator.Naturally, Lippes has brought his trademark discerning eye to his new resort collection. A spin through the racks reveals, among other things, a dress in a floral print inspired by an 18 century botanical painted by hand in his studio and wide-leg khaki trousers embroidered down the sides with the same motif, high-waisted leather culottes with brass buttons lifted from authentic fencing uniforms, and a leopard jacquard glinting with metallic thread on a full midi-skirt and straight-leg trousers.His focus in this pre-season was sportswear separates. “I wanted to go back to a little more of an easier way of dressing,” he said, adding the caveat that it’s all “as refined and luxurious as we can make it.” Charcoal gray cashmere suiting and the cashmere “denim” in a deep shade of indigo he used for a relaxed jumpsuit both lived up to their luxury billing, while the collection’s many belted paperbag waists had the sense of ease that he was after. An evening column in pale double-face Taroni silk crepe with a drape detail above one hip elegantly combined the two instincts.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 6, 2024
|
Adam Lippes
|
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|
Adam Lippes
|
Adam Lippes
| 0
| 294
|
|||
Adam Selman
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
What a difference five months makes. Since Adam Selman debuted his line last September, he has been picked up by a bevy of key retailers, including Opening Ceremony and Browns of London, and is working with one of the biz's most prestigious PR firms. Does the fact that he's Rihanna's costume designer and the cocreator of her recently wrapped River Island capsule have anything to do with that? Maybe. But we've got to give him props. Last season, Selman seemed like Riri's costumer who just happened to have a clothing line. This time around, he came off as a designer with a vision who just happens to collaborate with Rihanna.Selman's Fall story grew out of a bizarre current event: About four months ago, a hiker in the French Alps stumbled upon $300,000 worth of jewels. Allegedly, they were relics from a plane that crashed there in the 1950s while flying from Bombay to New York. "So it's hiking clothes meets India, but in a weird, New York, Stephen Sprouse kind of way," said Selman. How did he pull that off, exactly? For starters, there were his prints—a paint-splatter-cum-cow-spot pattern, and a seed motif that referenced traditional saris but was rendered in such a way that it recalled an urban grate.The designer's campy-flirty take on sportswear did the rest. Jersey caftans, a tech-fabric pencil skirt, luxe sweats galore, and playful wide-leg overalls, all worn with red or cobalt heels, blended far-flung glamour, athletics, and city life. There were easy, pared-down options too, like high-waisted twill trousers and a nubby wool bomber, as well as clever touches of sexed-up glam. For instance, one look—a black body-con floor-length dress and matching opera gloves—was made entirely of sport mesh. A hooded black jumpsuit paired with a snood seemed equally saucy (not to mention comfortable). Same goes for a roomy blue sweat suit, if only because it was shown with a hip-baring leotard (presumably this ensemble is Rihanna-approved).The details here—namely grosgrain embellishments, unexpected mesh panels, and braided backpack straps—deserve a nod. As do Selman's ribbed hats, the tops of which were knotted into floppy little bows. Apparently, they were born during a hazy night at home. "I was just playing around with some fabric and tied it around my head, and that was it. But it kind of came out TLC," he said backstage. No need to overthink it, Mr. Selman. Whatever you're doing, it's working.
|
Katharine Zarrella
|
February 6, 2014
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
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Adam Selman
| 0
| 295
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Adam Selman
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
When one hears Adam Selman's name, Rihanna inevitably comes to mind. The designer, who got his start by helping to create costumes for stars like Britney Spears and Michael Jackson, has worked with the Barbadian pop singer's stylist Mel Ottenberg for the past few years to dream up custom tour looks. And, of course, he serves as the co-designer on her River Island capsule. This season Selman stepped out on his own, presenting his debut eponymous collection. "I definitely like to embrace that my name is going to be associated with Rihanna," said Selman at his buzzy presentation at a gallery in the West Village. "I love working with her, but I've got a few tricks up my sleeve."For his first effort he turned out a vintage boudoir collection inspired by retroCosmopolitancovers shot by Francesco Scavullo and an eighties HBO documentary about supermodels,Beautiful Baby, Beautiful."I thought about the model-photographer relationship," said Selman—a sentiment he spoofed by getting cult comedienne Amy Sedaris to direct his models during the presentation. Blending references from the seventies (evident in tricolor rayon palazzo pants paired with a turban-esque headband and a black blouse tied just below the bust) through the early 2000s (oversize backpacks with a raver vibe), Selman's offerings were playful and nostalgic. "I love the idea of a super-sexy, sultry woman, wearing something cut down to here, but it's unrealistic. I really respond to masculine shapes interpreted in a feminine way," he explained. Some of his wares, like a baby-pink silk cropped baseball shirt worn with matching short shorts, or little spaghetti-strap slips made in the same style, seemed more appropriate for the bedroom than the street. But others, like his oversize sharp-collared white twill trench shown with a black rayon one-piece swimsuit, as well as navy twill denim high-waist skinny trousers and a workman's jacket, were youthful and fun. An easy black twill romper was also a wearable standout.When it was suggested that Rihanna might favor some of his skimpier Spring styles, Selman offered, "I would hope so! She can have anything she wants."
|
Katharine Zarrella
|
September 6, 2013
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 296
|
||
Adam Selman
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,015
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
A lover of camp, Adam Selman put together a clever send-up of '60s bad girls, complete with beehives and a bubblegum-pop soundtrack—like a sassy scene out of a John Waters flick. In fact, that's exactly what the collection was based on, a scene fromFemale Trouble, when Chiclet Fryer (played by Susan Walsh) talks back to her teacher for reprimanding her outfit. "It's just a skirt and sweater!" she sneers, every bit the ill-tempered delinquent as her partner in crime, Divine's Dawn Davenport. In a moment of pure fandom, Selman delivered the line himself with the same petulant intensity.So that's how he arrived at the twinset, tweaking and twisting the '60s symbol of virtue until it became "rotten and spoiled." Selman filled out the collection further with gingham schoolgirl uniforms, polo-collared dresses covered in little bows of yarn, a belted midi dress fashioned after a trenchcoat, accordion-pleated skirts, and matching gloves. There were also bobby socks, oversize fuzzy sweaters, and rib knits—a first for the designer—as well as cat-eye shades in collaboration with Les Specs.Most of it managed to feel contemporary, not costumey, even though Selman's models stayed in character throughout, sauntering around the runway while smacking gum and twisting their hair. During rehearsal, the show's stylist, Mel Ottenberg (who also counts Rihanna, a bad girl in her own way, as a client), directed the girls to "stare into space like you're stoned." That's exactly what they did, to the delight of audience member Amy Sedaris, whose short-lived TV showStrangers With Candy, a sort of updatedFemale Trouble, was surely another cult inspiration.
|
Lee Carter
|
February 13, 2015
|
Adam Selman
|
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|
Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 297
|
||
Adam Selman
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
OK, let's just get it out of the way. Yes, Rihanna made an appearance at Adam Selman's Spring '15 show. Yes, she arrived after it ended. And yes, she was wearing a flirty white baby-doll dress from the new collection.For anyone who managed to miss the sartorial shocker of the year, Adam Selman was the man behind Rihanna's sheer crystal-covered CFDA gown. Whatever opinions you may have about Bad Gal's nearly nude turn on the red carpet, that dress got Selman's name into practically every paper, news broadcast, and household in the country. That's an achievement for any fledgling talent. However, Selman is more than a pop star's sensationalist one-trick pony, a fact he proved when he unveiled his sporty Spring range at the West Village's Algus Greenspon Gallery. That happens to be the same location in which Selman held his inaugural presentation just one year ago—but this was not a presentation. It was Selman's first full-fledged runway show, though he was hesitant to recognize it as a milestone. "I just want it to have the same energy and personal feel of my first two," he said. "It's not formal."Selman has a soft spot for nostalgia, and for Spring, he expressed it in more ways than one. The high-gloss '80s kitsch of Japanese airbrush artist Harumi Yamaguchi served as the starting point for the 24-look lineup, Selman's largest to date. "I also studied what my friends are wearing, so Spring is kind of this New York City girl with a dirty face of makeup meets Harumi Yamaguchi in a cool Jane Birkin way," said the designer.What on earth does that mean, you ask? Youthful, slightly suggestive ready-to-wear mixed with Selman-ized summer classics. Models carrying number cards (like in the old days, when designers held salon presentations) walked out in airy pleated trousers paired with teeny bra tops (and, on one occasion, a spilled nail polish logo tee), denim tweed athletic shorts or miniskirts, and grown-up iterations of overalls. The latter are sure to be a hit among the downtown set—the best version was done in white linen and shown with a billowing pajama shirt. The ensemble fell somewhere between streetwise and angelic.Despite the ongoing sneaker overload, Selman's choice to pair everything from floor-length gowns and ruffled minidresses to bathing suits with them still felt fresh. Visors wrapped with bow-front scarves were sweet, but not saccharine, and sleek cat-eye sunglasses, a collaboration with Le Specs, brought onlookers further into Selman's retro, Pop-colored world.The designer seemed most excited about Spring's copious pearl embellishments, an idea he got after watching the 1986 made-for-TV flickBeverly Hills Madam."The only thing I took away from that movie was pearls. Lots and lots of pearls," he laughed. They appeared scattered on a sweatshirt; nestled between cutouts on waists, sleeves, and hemlines; and hanging from crop tops and separates. The danglers had a chintzy-meets-flamenco effect, but on the whole, the decorations were employed wisely. Selman also covered an entire mesh tennis dress with pearls. The resulting mini was very similar to (albeit much more opaque than) RiRi's CFDA look. "I think people were expecting that from me, and I wasn't going to give it literally. But I needed to give a little bit," Selman said. Including a wearable version of that infamous dress was a terribly smart move. Also smart? The fact that Selman kept 'em wanting more.
|
Katharine Zarrella
|
September 5, 2014
|
Adam Selman
|
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] | 0
|
Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 298
|
||
Adam Selman
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Inspiration can come from the unlikeliest of places. Take, for instance, the anime-like scribble on a white baby tee inAdam Selman’s Fall lineup. “Oh that,” said the designer backstage. “I was hanging out with Justin Theroux and Amy Sedaris during the big snowstorm, and we decided to have a drawing party. Justin drew that and graciously let me use it in the show.” Remember, the idea for Selman’s last collection sprang from a wallpaper-hanging party with Todd Oldham and, again, Amy Sedaris, both of whom were front and center at today’s outing.But that’s where the arts-and-crafts theme ended for Fall, which veered sharply from the tropical breezes and John Waters camp of seasons past to a much colder, darker place. “I’m obsessed withMaking a Murderer,” Selman professed, referring to the smash-hitNetflixseries, a whodunit that follows the real-life trials and tribulations of Steven Avery, a Wisconsin man who goes in and out of prison for violent crimes he may or may not have committed. “In fact I’m a fanatic of the true crime genre. It’s all I read,” added the designer.It’s a bone-chilling, nail-biting new direction for Selman. Killer cocktail dresses, noirish knits, a plethora of his signature denim, several great puffer jackets (a new item for him), and a mysterious black velvet jumpsuit told his murder mystery—or, as he called it, “murder-in-the-night theme.” And, like his defaced baby tee each season, Selman likes to play with fringe, which here came as seductive black tulle in the closing dress, as well as allover barbed wire tinsel in red and silver. Selman also gave a shout-out toDavid Bowiein the hand-painted silver striping on various pieces, a nod to Kansai Yamamoto’s costumes for the Starman in his younger days.
|
Lee Carter
|
February 12, 2016
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
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Adam Selman
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| 299
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