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Adam Selman
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,016
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Ever the adventurer,Adam Selmanwill gleefully chart a course where others dare not go.Fallfound him obsessed with Cookie Mueller, an oft-overlooked bad girl in John Waters’s morally bankrupt coterie. This season Selman blew all the way to one of the smaller Hawaiian islands, where he discovered Taylor Camp, a ’60s and ’70s nudist colony on the oceanfront property of a witting Howard Taylor, shortly after his impossibly glamorous sister, Elizabeth, played her baddest role yet inWho’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?. Selman is keenly aware that he has a fondness for foul-mouthed spitfires: “I’ll always have my bad girls,” he chuckled backstage, beaming through his signature ’stache.Clothing isn’t optional on a runway, so Selman snapped out of his beach-induced high, brushed off the sand, and set about crafting latter-day hippiewear with a focus on what he called “nonchalant exposure.” Joyful flower prints and appliqués on jaunty summer dresses bounded out to a cheery sing-along soundtrack. They were mixed with breezy denim separates, as well as white bandeaux and drawstring slacks, some of which were reversed to reveal seams and pockets. An erstwhile symbol of modesty, gauzy crinolines were stripped of their cumbersome shells and placed front and center, starting with the first exit. Converse All Stars were also reworked, DIY-style, to become platform espadrilles. However, a baby tee with an illustrated image of “a woman smoking a blunt” was obscured by a denim jacket by the time it hit the catwalk.This wasn’t just a nod to pot-smoking, free-loving, skin-baring hippies, but also an ode to an authentic “craftsy” look, in particular the work of Todd Oldham, the designer perhaps best loved for so artfully cobbling things together on MTV’sHouse of StylewithCindy Crawford. Unbeknownst to most, there he was in the audience today, happily yakking it up with more of Selman’s bad girls, Amy Sedaris and Lea DeLaria (Orange Is the New Black). “It’s a tribute to me?” asked Oldham after the show, in believable disbelief. He described how he and Selman had met while hanging wallpaper with Sedaris. “I’m in awe of Adam,” he said. “He’s the real deal.”
|
Lee Carter
|
September 11, 2015
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 300
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Adam Selman
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/adam-selman
| 2,016
|
resort
|
In a refreshing burst of honesty, Adam Selman admitted today that his inspiration this season was…Adam Selman. "I feel like girls appreciate the way I put myself together," he said, "and it struck me, they're probably looking for that in the clothes I design, too." Selman was on to something, and his instinct to emphasize the accessible and matter-of-fact as he embarked on his first-ever Resort collection was spot-on. With this outing, he went on to explain, he was trying to strip away the "show" elements—the spectacle and snazzy camp—and focus on the kind of clothes cool girls want to wear, day in and day out.With that in mind, the designer zeroed in on stripped-down garments with a relaxed attitude, ones that he elaborated with some novel detail, like the oversize grommets on his jersey dresses, or the silk back on his blue and navy-striped knits. (The puckish pearl embellishment, meanwhile, was an unlikely utilitarian detail: Selman had a ton of pearls left over from last season.) He also showed some playful denim pieces, which featured selvage fringe and a texture puckered with eyelash. The standout items here, though, were the space-dyed ribbed knits. Virtually brainless to wear, the knits were of a rayon that was fine yet muscular, with a hand you'd have to describe as "sexy," in that you felt an instant desire to be embraced by them.In sum, Selman's effort to produce a collection bare of bells and whistles served to affirm his canniness as a designer of wardrobe workhorses. It made you realize that, for all he likes to put on a good show, he's not just in the fantasy business.
|
Maya Singer
|
June 10, 2015
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 301
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|||
Adam Selman
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Adam Selman loves weaving his collections with quirky obsessions. His past fixations have included wayward John Waters characters, a forgotten nudist colony loosely affiliated with Elizabeth Taylor, and a Netflix crime drama that he couldn’t help but binge-watch. But top of mind for Fall, he said, was an old favorite: denim. In particular, he was taken with the rare bookAmerican Denimand its colorful illustrations of the craftsy world of ’70s denim art, each example more exhaustively embroidered than the last. “The book was sitting on my desk forever,” mused the designer, himself a fan of workwear, habitually seen in blue jeans or, as today, overalls. “Finally I picked it up and I was blown away by all the crazy creativity.”It’s not hard to imagine Selman poring over those images, wide-eyed and agog at the possibilities of denim, even if his own vision today was rather tame by comparison. A pared-down denim biker jacket, trench coat, and short skirt appliquéd with red roses emerged to a soundtrack taken from another current obsession, the 1966 spaghetti westernThe Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Only a few looks in, though, and we were confronted with the reality of another and quite opposing sartorial symbol of the ’70s: disco chic. Out came shimmering Lurex minidresses, midriff-exposing halter tops, sweater dresses, jumpsuits, and pleated party dresses. They smacked of a febrile Halston flashback, but in fact Selman said they were influenced by another Studio 54 staple, sisters Mariel and Margaux Hemingway. “You know how I look to the Hemingways for inspiration. They always do me right.”Those two things, denim and disco, merged into one supremely wearable collection, softened with a gently faded print—by fashion illustrator Ricardo Fumanal—of a woman in cheesecake-like nude repose, possibly a nod to mudflap girls. The desert vibe was topped with a cat-eye sunglass collaboration with Le Specs and culminated with a topless model holding a “ridiculously big bouquet of roses,” Selman chuckled, to cover her bareness. And so, while whipping up elaborate costumes for Rihanna, Lady Gaga, and RuPaul seems to be a thing of the past (mostly) for Selman, we’ll always have his motley obsessions.
|
Lee Carter
|
February 10, 2017
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 302
|
||
Adam Selman
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Why settle for just one great reference when you could have the whole lot?Adam Selman’s long been a bit of a magpie, aesthetically speaking, in recent seasons referencing a ’60s and ’70s nudist colony and, with his ongoing Le Specs collab, creating cat-eye shades inspired by Catherine Deneuve’s pair inThe Hunger’s iconic opening. And for Spring the designer made a cornucopia of touchstones work for him harmoniously.Perhaps in part that can be chalked up to the fact that now Selman is really setting his sights on His Girl and what it is she’s looking to his brand for. As one of this year’s CFDA/VogueFashion Fund finalists, Selman’s showing serious muscle when conveying the larger vision of his universe (rounding out the offering with accessories in collaboration with Chris Habana and a pair of corset-laced denim platforms).In palette, the collection followed a thread of dawn to dusk and beyond, opening with a series of whisper-soft ballet pinks, giving way to juicy, ’70s-inflected coral and tangerine knitwear, and closing with a story in inky midnight blue denim. Hewn from Selman’s far-flung fixations, the resulting show wasn’t dissimilar to leafing through a diary. Like the designer, it was a little bit country, a little bit rock ’n’ roll, and yes, bearing even a dose of disco (this season’s hero entry-level piece was the Summer Fever graphic crew—an homage to Donna Summer, with its slogan pulled from herFour SeasonsofLovealbum). Late Pittsburgh artist Aaronel deRoy Gruber’s candy-color Plexiglass sculptures informed a handful of luminous numbers created from stacked iridescent paillettes topped with pearls. Crafty, deliciously fusty crocheted styles could teach your grandmother’s afghan a few things, and the aforementioned Chris Habana-designed jewelry nodded to a little-known accessories capsule Antonio Lopez created in the ’60s.Like any good journal under lock and key, there were some saucier bits here, too; on closer inspection the darling pj’s sets Selman showed both solo and teamed with denim and Chuck Taylors (hallmarks of Selman’s own personal uniform) bore a porno print culled from X-rated 1940s footage. And while Selman is fluent in both cheek and kitsch, he clearly holds the masters of all-American sportswear in high esteem. To round out his red carpet options for his growing coterie of A-list fans (beyond a certain, singular Bad Gal), this lineup’s closing looks included a spare and structured strapless gown in dark-wash denim, and a stunner of a grosgrain-striped tulle gown finished with overall straps.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
September 9, 2016
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
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Adam Selman
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| 303
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Adam Selman
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Always ready with a playful wink and a nudge, Adam Selman outdid himself today with his unabashed ode to ’80s haute-camp. It came off particularly kinky, even by ’80s standards, perhaps a nod to the surreal style of Guy Bourdin or to the clever satirists atToilet Paper. But no, in fact those cheeky illustrations and their fluorescent hues were based on the work of Cheyco Leidmann. As a whole, the collection was a tribute to the spandex-loving photographer and his eternally flame-haired muse, Ypsitylla Von Nazareth.Selman had been poring over the now-collectible photo booksFoxy LadyandBanana Splitthat the two produced back in the glam-is-good decade. He wanted to collaborate with them on the prints in the show as a way of acknowledging their lasting influence. (Good news from Selman: The two are very much still at it, kicking around Miami’s more colorful corners.) And he cited another reference, Paper Moon Graphics, illustrators of visually ironic, sexually suggestive greeting cards from the same era. Combined, they made for a madcap runway romp that alternated between amorous pop imagery and not-yet-forgotten ’80s froth, as in prom-like minidresses with puff shoulders, oversize blazers with a zipper down the center back, and bright faux fur galore. Shoes came as flat boots or daring thigh-highs fit for a dominatrix.Fun, bold, ever-so-sordid was the aim here. Upon closer inspection, one shirt bore an allover print of a girl salaciously straddling a giant banana. Selman said he was most enamored with a tiger print, which he rendered as a wrap tank dress, loose V-neck knits, and seductive off-the-shoulder numbers. A sexy, sheer version of that print stalked the runway as a sharp-shouldered and cinched trench. And, denim’s biggest fan, Selman couldn’t have a show without that most provocative of materials—well, after vinyl, and there appeared to be some of that too.
|
Lee Carter
|
February 9, 2018
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 304
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Adam Selman
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-selman
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
“People are running from America like it’s a bad word,” lamented Adam Selman backstage before showtime. “So I wanted to run toward it, embrace it even more.” Ever the contrarian, he seemed to be citing both the less than auspicious political reality the country finds itself in, to put it mildly, and this season’s mass exodus of American designers to the catwalks of Paris.For Spring, Selman doubled down on his signature motifs, emphasizing “ease over froufrou” as he flitted between key looks. Denim, a classic among classics and Selman’s enduring material of choice, held particular fascination for him. He noted the recent Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum, in which the quintessential American artist’s off-duty personal style—particularly her penchant for denim at a time when only cowboys donned the stuff—was given as much attention as her inestimable oeuvre. On Selman’s runway, denim took the form of indigo overalls, work jeans, and traditional jean jackets, as well as a showstopping last exit, a combination of the latter two items made entirely of opaque blue sequins. O’Keeffe as a touchstone also resulted in large iris flowers printed on the hems and cuffs of various pieces. Seemingly hand-painted, they echoed the show’s fantastic set design, paper irises sprouting on either side of the runway made by artist Daniel Murphy in collaboration with Papyrus stationery.“Fashion should be fun and bold,” Selman said in a defiant tone. How else to explain rompers, pajamas, gingham boxers, and high-stretch knit tops with trompe l’oeil plackets and hankie-stuffed breast pockets? Decidedly disco platforms, too, stalked the runway in unabashed metallic shades—Selman’s first foray into footwear. He’s also capitalizing on the popularity of his ongoing eyewear collaboration with Le Specs, christening the cat-eye styles with plucky names like The Last Lolita and The Fugitive. And now his fans can enjoy another outlet for his creative subversion; Selman is a consultant on his pal Amy Sedaris’s new TV show,At Home,in which the actress-comedian demonstrates her oddball crafts-making skills. Humor may be the best resistance.
|
Lee Carter
|
September 8, 2017
|
Adam Selman
|
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Adam Selman
|
Adam Selman
| 0
| 305
|
||
Adeam
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,013
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
We're posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss Tommy Ton's street-style shots.
| null |
October 18, 2012
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 306
|
||
Adeam
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Sandwiched between so many collections billing themselves as that most nebulous of things, "edgy," an offering like ADEAM's New York runway debut runs the risk of feeling quaint in its primness. And yet, even with her hyper-feminine forms, designer Hanako Maeda carried off a collection both ladylike and relevant. Perhaps that was thanks in part to her Nobel Prize-winning inspiration, Yasunari Kawabata's 1935 novelSnow Country. While Maeda drew on both the male and female protagonists (a dilettante writer and a geisha), clearly it was the latter that won out in the end. The palette leaned heavily on delicate powder pink and icy dove gray; there were plenty of floaty yet structured party frocks. A custom brocade with a camellia print was particularly pretty, and things got a bit more femme fatale with a fitted black number that had an asymmetrical silver fox trim. Nods to the Western men's-tailoring craze that had swept Japan by the thirties were relatively surreptitious, and should please the woman who doesn't typically go for androgynous designs.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
February 8, 2014
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 307
|
||
Adeam
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
When Hanako Maeda launched ADEAM (an inversion of her last name) back in 2011, she chose to accent the label's logo with a plum flower taken from her family crest. Fittingly, nature has served as a continual source of inspiration for the young designer since the beginning. For Fall, Maeda conjured up a modern woodland fairy tale. She referenced Japanese cherry blossoms during Resort, and used hydrangeas as the jumping-off point for her latest lineup today. Riffing on that theme, she developed an interesting, shibori-effect pattern by manipulating hydrangea cells viewed underneath a microscope. The blown-up biological print was shown on feminine pieces like an A-line cap-sleeve dress and a pair of shorts with sheer fabric peeking out from underneath the hem. Maeda also embroidered petals along the sides of a kicky navy miniskirt. If the collection sounds very sweet, it was indeed—particularly the flirty frocks that mixed together eyelet lace and delicate organza. Still, "every rose has its thorn," as Maeda pointed out backstage before her presentation at Lincoln Center. "All beautiful things have a darker strength, too. I wanted to do pretty pastels in grayer, washed-out tones," she said. Working in that palette, she toughened things up a bit by including more menswear-inspired silhouettes and clean lines. A slim tailored suit looked fresh styled with a structured wool bra top underneath, and longer, lilac-colored leather shirts tapped into current trends. Overall, it was a carefully considered, easy-to-wear collection. The only remaining question is, what will be in bloom at ADEAM next season?
|
Brittany Adams
|
September 7, 2013
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 308
|
||
Adeam
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Fall found ADEAM designer Hanako Maeda in a quieter mood, far from last season's Yves Klein blue and glossy heat transfers. Here was a lineup in charcoal, black, oxblood, cream, and little else. Fabrication is always paramount to the brand, but the rich fil coupe from Maeda's Fall '14 outing was nowhere to be found–though with what she showed instead, it was hardly missed. Take the dreamy cashmere-sable blend the designer whipped up and sent out in wrap tops and jackets, or a long navy wool coat with geometric designs in mohair (a statement piece without verging on full-on street-style bait). Elsewhere was a great nylon parka trimmed in curly lamb at the collar, and a nubby white sweaterdress, eyed hungrily by half the front row.While the looks on offer might have benefited from a slightly tighter edit, this was a strong showing for Maeda, with a clear message: easy, cozy, and, of course, hyper-luxe. And the designer's got only big things in the works for the coming months. In addition to the forthcoming debut of ADEAM's first ad campaign and market appointments in Paris, come February 25 Maeda opens her first brick-and-mortar location, an in-store boutique at Tokyo's Isetan.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
February 16, 2015
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 309
|
||
Adeam
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,015
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Hanako Maeda has had quite a year. Back in February she showed formal, confectionary clothes at Lincoln Center for Fall. June saw an about-face as ADEAM turned out sporty, sometimes space-age ensembles for Resort. And for Spring '15, she struck a compelling balance between the two. Bearing in mind Yves Klein'sAnthropométriesseries (part paintings, part performance art pieces in which the artist directed nude women as his "human paintbrushes"—dipped in International Klein Blue, of course), Maeda heat-transferred glossy, globule-like shapes onto neoprene frocks and separates. Fully fashioned pleated knits were at once futuristic and classic, as seen in midi dresses. The boxy, midriff-grazing tops seemed an especially long way from the relatively patrician looks on Fall's catwalk.But in many ways, Maeda dialed back the edge factor from Resort's mod androgyny. From soigné boatnecks to high-low hemlines and delicate chiffon trims, there were plenty of elements to suggest that the designer hasn't lost her taste for the ladylike. Ever a devotee of luxe materials (custom brocades, fox trim, et al.), here she sent out a stunning geometric fil coupe. It was impossible not to notice that ADEAM has some power behind it in the production department, too; intercontinental music man Michel Gaubert supplied the tunes, and Aaron de Mey handled makeup. With cohorts like these—and design chops to match—the brand's future is looking bright.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
September 8, 2014
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 310
|
||
Adeam
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/adeam
| 2,015
|
resort
|
ADEAM's second Resort collection flies in the face of the frothy femininity sent down the catwalk just a few months ago—more or less. Here, some of the ladylike silhouettes remained, but designer Hanako Maeda had kitted them out in conceptual accents, zeroing in on the idea ofwabi-sabi—organic beauty in all of its imperfections. Fitted shifts got asymmetrical cutout overlays; a metallic machine-knit felt more than a little like modern chain mail. This harder, sportier edge was echoed in slick, double-faced neoprenes. Slashed by glossy heat transfers in a graphic bamboo print, they felt downright disparate compared with Fall's brocade cocktail frocks. But Maeda hasn't banished her clearly feminine tastes and eye for the opulent: A foil plaid circle skirt seemed fresh here, and a leather trench with muttonchop sleeves was covetable. This new direction, with its tension of refinement and irregularity, is an exciting one; it seems safe to say that ADEAM's recently launched e-commerce site can expect a workout in the months to come.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
June 3, 2014
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 311
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
ADEAM’s Hanako Maeda is stepping ahead; her Spring 2016 collection was picked up by Net-a-Porter, a big deal for any young brand, and her follow-up Fall presentation continues, perhaps more expressively and kinetically, in the vein of exploring Japan’s cultural capital. “I looked at Japanese arts and crafts, its folklore,” said the designer. Specifically, she’s repurposed boro patchwork (“artisans, fisherman, they’d take rags from old kimonos and patch them up to use for their own stuff”) and kumihimo braiding (“it’s the weave samurai used to put their armor together”). The latter leitmotif is particularly arresting, especially when done in denim or as silvery embroidered accents on sleeve cuffs (the collection’s high mark, a lab coat dress buttoned down the front and ring-belted across the back, features the detail).Maeda mentions a focus on “separates for eveningwear,” which is a smart and relevant concept (though there are still plenty of dresses to work with, and at least five of them are under $1,000). A vertically ribbed knit—neck to floor, with gigantic braided yarn wraps at the wrists—opened in the back to reveal a bra top and mid-rise pants. The pieces nailed the designer’s intent; together, they looked very nighttime and very now. The only red flag, really, is that if you didn’t know beforehand that these clothes were ADEAM, you might have trouble ID’ing a few of them. But, given the strong bond between and subsequent evolution from Spring to Fall, and the lovely lightness of her Japonisme applications this time, Maeda is moving in the direction of finding her aesthetic signature—step by step.
|
Nick Remsen
|
February 11, 2016
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 312
|
||
Adeam
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,016
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Hanako Maedahas been busy rediscovering her Japanese roots. On a recent trip to Kyoto, she grew particularly enamored of her native country’s architecture. ForSpring, she focused on marrying the aesthetic heritage of Japan with the lean sophistication of New York, her adopted hometown, just as East met West during the Edo period.Maeda’s clothes have never lacked in urbane appeal, so it was a particular treat to see how she incorporated traditional elements and pitted structure against fluidity. The past several seasons have witnessed the designer loosening up her once ladylike vernacular, and there was a downright languidness to these pieces.The kimono was of particular interest to Maeda, who borrowed traditional prints from those garments and elements of the obi that cropped up on a flowing wrap dress, or across the front of a long vest. Elsewhere, the knotted neckline on a gauzy maxi nodded to the process behind traditional shibori dyeing techniques, and the red, harness-like sash on a starry black-and-white gown (perhaps the strongest look in today’s lineup) echoed the tasuki traditionally worn by Japanese drum players, among others. But you could hardly hope for a more fitting marriage of the modern-day and the traditional than Maeda’s raw indigo denim mini with a flowing underlay of shibori-printed chiffon.Despite the newfound ease to her clothes, Maeda remains as adroit as ever when it comes to evening: Her strapless, obi-inspired jacquard dress (look 29) was just the antidote to overwrought red carpet fare. Between day and night, these pieces added up to the label’s strongest outing in recent memory. If Maeda has had a tendency in the past to change her course a bit from season to season, you hoped she’d stay this one.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
September 14, 2015
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 313
|
||
Adeam
|
resort-2016
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/adeam
| 2,016
|
resort
|
Hanako Maeda studied art history at Columbia University, and while it may not have been a direct path from there to her current role designing ADEAM, there's no downplaying the influence it has had on her collections. See: Spring 2015, with its brilliant cobalt splashes in homage to Yves Klein, or Resort '15's urbane brand of wabi-sabi. This season's inspiration was the Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, whose lacy pavilions of latticework call to mind the kaleidoscopes of Maeda's childhood. Their candy-colored repetitions yielded some beautifully icy beading and a watercolor pattern that the designer printed on silk chiffon, using it to trim and tier eveningwear.Ban's direct influence, meanwhile, was a more abstracted one. It got Maeda thinking about organicism, a happy addition to her largely luxury-driven vocabulary. Raffia detailing on jackets and dresses tapped into a softly crafty mood without feeling forced; ditto the macramé top of a color-blocked gown. The industry's current yen for a sense of artful unraveling, for trailing threads and their ilk, got a nod in basket-weave pieces with long, untrimmed knit tape. That story was one of the standouts here.At times it can be hard to get a precise read on Maeda's longer-term vision for her brand. After all, Fall '14 was all fur, A-lines, and fil coupe; Resort's silhouettes skewed toward the boxy and nicely arty; and the road in between has been paved with neoprene, plush knits, the girlish, the boyish, bold prints, and no prints at all. But ADEAM is a young label, helmed by a designer whose talents are apparent. Whatever the journey brings, it's sure to be a lovely trip.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
June 3, 2015
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 314
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Let’s start with Hanako Maeda’s finale, shall we? When the last model, clad in a dreamy black gown, made her way down the stark white runway, she didn’t turn. Instead, she kept going and took her seat at the drum set that had remained untouched the entire show. She began to bang on the drums, whipping her jet black hair all around and writhing like a rock ’n’ roller unchained. This was the moment that Maeda’s collection actually started to make a little more sense. At first, the looks that preceded the big loud ta-da felt somewhat all over the place, as if the designer wasn’t sure if her Fall muse was a tidy Victorian matriarch or a body-pierced, blue-haired raver. As the pretty drummer eventually personified though, it turned out that the references were meant to be mixed up and the message was supposed to be a rebellious one. Maeda clarified backstage, explaining that she was going for a “Gothic Lolita, which originated in Harajuku in the ’90s.” She added, “I really wanted this collection to be about expressing individuality and strong femininity—that doesn’t have to be about appropriating men’s clothes or androgyny; it can just be about being yourself.”Maeda’s ideas of independence and self-expression came in the form of a diverse cast wearing miniskirts layered over balloon-sleeved shirtdresses; ruched one-shouldered tops in bright blue worn over tight burgundy turtlenecks; embellished tights; and anime-esque, sky-high platform Mary Janes. There were sporty pants fastened at the side with delicate pearls and floral print dresses with black ruffles. Some pieces were cinched at the waist while others were uninhibited. The styling of the show wasn’t exactly concise but, once picked apart, Maeda’s nicely crafted, chic pieces could make for a fun game of dress up during day or night.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 9, 2017
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
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| 315
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Adeam
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,017
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Hanako Maeda has been mining her Japanese roots since she startedADEAM, but this season found her thinking along more introspective lines. Her starting point for Spring ’17 wasshodo, the Japanese art of calligraphy, which she chose for both its beautiful, curving brushstrokes and its meditative qualities. It’s believed that focusing on the precise (and very permanent) script helps to “clear one’s thoughts,” or at least forces you to ignore your buzzing phone and other external agitations. The fashion industry can certainly relate to that, and considering Maeda’s business doubled this year thanks to a successful Resort collection, she’s probably ready for a breather, too.At times, Maeda interpreted the calligraphy motif in literal ways, as in the charming, scribbled-on embroideries that decorated a khaki parka. There was an abstract calligraphy print, too, in a swirling black, cream, cherry red, and “porcelain blue” brushstrokes. On a ruched and twisted silk dress, the print stood to win over even the print-averse. There were subtler, more emotional details, too; cold-shoulder tops and dresses hung delicately over the biceps, recalling the graceful movements of a calligrapher’s hand. Loopy bows and knots echoed the flourishes of a brush, and the relaxed, slightly undone styling (see the cardigans pushed off the shoulders and plisse gowns layered over trousers) reflected how Maeda sees her woman as “composed, but also at ease.” Now that ADEAM is stocked by retailers from Tokyo to Riyadh, Maeda is tasked with designing clothes that resonate with lots of different women in lots of different places. The common thread? Most of those women want to look polished but effortless, and most of them shop for “items.” Maeda was wise to take that into account. You could pluck any one piece from this line-up—say, the white bell-sleeved blouse—and wear it a hundred different ways, from day to night. That’s really ADEAM’s sweet spot.
|
Emily Farra
|
September 7, 2016
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
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| 316
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Adeam
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/adeam
| 2,017
|
resort
|
On a steamy June morning, Hanako Maeda’s vision for Resort 2017 could hardly have felt more resonant. TheADEAMdesigner’s mood board was outfitted with images of traditional yukatas, the warm-weather, casual kimonos from her native Japan. They’re hundreds of years old, but something in their simplicity and offhanded elegance felt particularlyright. Worn slung low off the shoulders (think: along the lines of Balenciaga parkas) and cinched artfully but un-preciously at the waist, the garment looked definitively cool.Of chief interest to Maeda in recent seasons has been riffing on a traditional Japanese aesthetic vocabulary with 21st-century forms. Rarely has she struck upon that as elegantly as with Resort’s lushly textured shibori organzas; whipped into floor-skimming gowns and strapless crop tops, they made for a very pretty synthesis of East and West. To note of the former: Maeda’s eveningwear is an unsung strong suit. Those lovely dresses would be a welcome break from the conveyor belt of usual red carpet and black-tie suspects.The action wasn’t all after sunset, though. Maeda has honed her eye for offhanded daywear, genuinely easy, slouchy styles like her cotton cashmere hoodie sweater or louche trench in an indigo-dyed linen. Looking back to her Fall ’14 collection, when she was a considerably younger designer, spare, slightly sportif pieces like those would have been unimaginable amid her then-ladylike vernacular; her line’s evolution is a pleasure to witness.
|
Kristin Anderson
|
June 7, 2016
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
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| 317
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|||
Adeam
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The ladies of 1920s Japan had a few things in common with women today. Referred to back then as “modern girls,” they were the Far East version of American flappers, who broke with ancient traditions, celebrated their worth, and experimented with independence. “These were working-class women who suddenly had financial freedom and emotional freedom,” Hanako Maeda said backstage at her Fall 2018 ADEAM show this afternoon. “They started choosing what they wanted to wear and broke free of societal constraints, like having to wear a kimono every day—they started wearing drop-waist dresses under their open, untied kimonos and played with ideas of Western-style suiting.” Maeda borrowed from this gesture for her new collection, and the results were lovely. The opening look set the tone: A marigold trench was layered over a matching dress with soft, cascading ruffles. Then came the Western vibes in the form of structured dark denim peplum tops, skinny jeans, and a belted jacket. Some of the most successful outfits were those that tricked the eye, like the mixed fabric overlay dresses, one of which was decorated with sashes across the front and another worn with a feather-embellished sweater underneath. One of the strongest and most thoughtful garments was a gorgeously draped strapless houndstooth frock, which was placed over a long-sleeved black blouse.This was what Maeda wore to her show, and while explaining her references backstage, she looked confident in it. In fact, the designer was more outwardly confident than she has been in seasons past, breezing past each model as she put the finishing touches on the clothes and saying, “We are actually so on top of everything this season.” Self-assurance is something Maeda should have, since she has built a successful business in the past few years and proven herself a pro as far as technical design aptitude is concerned. In the past, she has seemed more nervous before shows—for many women, especially in this moment in our Zeitgeist, confidence can often fall by the wayside. We’re bound to see many designers respond to the Me Too and Time’s Up movements this week, and here’s hoping they follow Maeda’s lead. Her clothes weren’t highly conceptual, pretentious, or printed with the wordresist. They simply made up a clever wardrobe meant for a woman who wants to push herself forward.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 8, 2018
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 318
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||
Adeam
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It’s only been two days, but ideas about diversity and optimism have already started to punctuate New York Fashion Week, and you didn’t have to be psychic to see it coming. If designers can do anything right now to help soften the daily blows coming out of the White House, it’s to stay away from doom and gloom and give us something—anything—to smile about. Today the talented young designer Hanako Maeda set the ADEAM Spring show inside a scene-y, intimate Chinese restaurant downtown and served lychee cocktails. Dumplings were passed around, too, which would have been enough to make any hangry editor smile from ear to ear, even if the clothes ended up being subpar. Thankfully, Maeda’s collection had joyfulness in spades.It also had a strong point of view. Maeda was inspired by a recent trip she took to Hong Kong, specifically the Soho neighborhood there (yes, they have one, too, and it stands for “south of Hollywood Road”). The area is known as a sort of melting pot between Eastern and Western cultures. As Maeda noted backstage, she saw old dim sum stands and food markets run by grandmothers and grandfathers lining streets that were occupied with cool kids dressed in sneakers, Supreme, and traditional Chinese clothing. “For me, being homogenous isn’t very exciting,” the designer explained. “I really liked how much people took liberties with the way that they dressed in that neighborhood. That’s what fashion is about: being different and expressing your individuality.”Maeda’s clothes definitely have that unique, one-off quality to them. In fact, she seems to be redefining her aesthetic with each new season, the next one more streamlined and stronger than the last. Her use of pleating and paneling merited high marks this go-around, especially when it came to looks like the rose-quartz cropped safari shirt and matching mini wrap skirt. The China blue–color dresses were also sophisticated, as were her twisted pleat bustiers and the ruffled scarf skirts. In all, this ADEAM collection had an impressive, well-conceived range, including hints of freewheeling, wear-anything ’70s disco vibes.Maeda is a real talent, not only for the way she constructs her garments, but for the way that she is able to create a meaningful, positive, smile-inducing narrative around them.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 8, 2017
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 319
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||
Adeam
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
It’s not uncommon for Hanako Maeda to mine her cultural history for inspiration. In conceptualizing her previousAdeamcollections, she’s looked to the rebellious breakthrough of Japanese women in the 1920s and the origination of the Harajuku punk girl during the ’90s. Her interpretations of these zeitgeist moments in Japan are never literal or derivative; instead they nod, ever so slightly, to the signs of those times through beautifully tailored silhouettes. For Fall 2019, Maeda went back in time once again, but instead of focusing on one time, place, or style, she zoned in on a very specific group of indigenous people. The designer borrowed from the Ainu people of Hokkaido, one of the oldest tribes in Japan, known for their dedication to living in harmony with nature. They perfected the art of crafting textiles and garments often dyed using natural shades from flowers and plants. The Ainu also specialized in detailed prints meant to symbolize spirituality and the world around them.Maeda paid homage to the Ainu culture by trimming nearly every piece with texture in the form of lace, fringed ribbon, or pleating. Her main goal, she said in a preview of today’s show, was to shed light on the artisanship that was born out of Hokkaido. She wanted this season to feel handmade and organic, and she certainly succeeded with pieces like the yellow corseted jacket and the apron dress with a geometric print (look closely and you’ll make out the cleverly hidden Adeam logo). A fuchsia suit was sharp as well, as was the dramatic, strapless finale gown and a two-tone denim dress with balloon sleeves. Maeda’s aim was to turn our attention away from modern technology, at least momentarily, and give praise to the ancestors who first put their hands to a garment and made it into something spectacular. She is an artisan in her own right, and this season was proof of that.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 9, 2019
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 320
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||
Adeam
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/adeam
| 2,019
|
pre-fall
|
It’s obvious to state that humans are now completely dependent on their phones and computers for communication, information, and commerce. In fashion, however, despite the fact that many labels are focused on upping their Instagram footprints or selling clothes with the help of a digital avatar, precious handmade things are au courant again. Sure, there are luxury brands like Balenciaga and Maison Margiela pushing the future-is-now agenda, but consumers seem to be drawn to the finer details of a non-machine-made garment these days.Designer Hanako Maeda has always appreciated and utilized the handcrafted in her work. When she launched her label Adeam in 2013, Maeda set out to design clothes that showcased functionality and Japanese artisanship, and to sell those clothes at a not-so-astronomical price point. Her latest outing is a sort of greatest hits album, one that showcases her love for shirting, convertible clothing, the mix of masculine and feminine silhouettes, and nods to the kawaii (cute in Japanese) aesthetic.There are pretty tiny bow embellishments on the sleeves of a button-down made with water-resistant gingham, a ruffled obi-style belt that can cinch the waist of a boxy jacket, and sharply tailored bustier dresses. A plaid dress with tied sleeves is reversible, as is a cool denim ruffled top. Every piece is made in Maeda’s Tokyo atelier using fabrics like Japanese crepe and a synthetic material that feels as light as linen but won’t wrinkle.As a whole, Adeam offers a digestible, practical version of the handcrafted fashion phenomenon. Maeda isn’t asking anyone to shut down their social media pages or to stop shopping online but, rather, to buy beautiful clothes that are made for humans, by humans; this collection is proof of the allure of that simple notion.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
December 4, 2018
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
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| 321
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Adeam
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,019
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
The thing about Hanako Maeda is that she makes really pretty clothes. There are others doing that too, but when looking at the overarching fashion landscape, especially in America, really pretty clothes seem like a blip on the radar. Mostly, the hype has been built around ugly-chic, tacky-chic, and crafty-chic rather than, well, just chic. Though it’s exciting and inspiring, much of the fashion currently commanding attention is unwearable for the average woman, those of us who don’t live in some fabulous universe where street style photographers bow down at our Balenciaga-platform-Croc-clad feet. Pretty clothes are refreshing right now, and for Spring Maeda executed them well. This season was, according to the designer, all about the exploration of nightclub culture, but the interpretation wasn’t at all literal. The collection was Japanesekawaiior “quirky cute,” but in a grown-up, boss-lady kind of way. It was ’90s plaid and a little prep without looking like it was ripped off the body ofClueless’s Cher Horowitz. Maeda’s designs always have a point of view and they’re never too on-the-nose.This season, she introduced bubblegum pink denim into her repertoire, which, if done wrong, could look like part of a costume for a bad tween rom-com. Maeda made it sharp by turning it into an off-the-shoulder top with balloon sleeves and blink-and-you-miss-them bows tied at the sides. Her most provocative pieces were done in black and red PVC, including a sleek trenchcoat and a corset. The designer also did great suiting, and the trenches with lacing details at the back were statement-making. Instead of putting a Japanese phoenix on a silky bomber, she added it to a structured plaid jacket and gave the club-kid favorite a much-needed makeover.Overall, the collection was diverse without losing its through line. We were seated in the old Tunnel nightclub, a New York icon of debauchery in the ’90s, and though Maeda spoke about the quirky, crafty, cool fashion that once came out of such places, her Spring collection was singular and, in a word, lovely.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 8, 2018
|
Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 322
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||
Adeam
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/adeam
| 2,019
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resort
|
Designer Hanako Maeda used to bury her head in Japanese teen magazines. Growing up in Tokyo during the ’90s, publications aimed at young fashion wannabes—two of the most popular beingCUTiEandOlive—provided her with a special lens into the world of creative self-styling. Maeda learned how to layer clothes and play around with prints and textures while flipping through those glossy pages filled with quirky street style photographs. She was drawn to the Harajuku girls who mixed and matched various genres, whether skater, preppy, or vintage. These images have always informed her aesthetic as a designer, as well as her personal style, but they also provided a specific source of inspiration for her latest Resort collection. Maeda is adept at balancing literal interpretations with imaginative ones, and this season she did well in that department again.Nods tokawaii(which translates to “cute” in Japanese) fashion culture were woven into the collection by way of cotton-poplin bustier tops and dresses that can be worn on their own or over knits and easy shirting. There were removable collars and cuffs, and ties to leave loose or knot up however one might want. “Convertibility” was a word Maeda used several times while thumbing through her latest wares. This, combined with her asymmetric ruffle detailing, a new vintage bandana print, and plaid jacquard, made for a nostalgic collection that felt rather modern.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
June 6, 2018
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 323
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,020
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Sportyis not a word you’d typically associate with Adeam. Hanako Maeda’s designs are dreamy and sometimes fanciful, with sparkly embellishments or a voluminous silhouette. They can be sculptural and clean-cut, but they aren’t the sort of clothes you can wear to and from yoga class. This season, however, Maeda switched up her game. She collaborated with 22-year-old Japanese tennis champion Naomi Osaka, who sat nervously in the front row (it was her very first fashion show), on a five-piece capsule collection that Osaka helped sketch. In fact, Osaka has always adored fashion and has been sketching her own designs since she was a kid. The line included an angular ruffled-hem tank and matching skirt with black lace paneling; a dramatically ruffled white gown with a black lining; and two additional gowns, one in red and black and the other belted and done in a classic pinstripe. All of it was an extension of Maeda’s fall lineup inspired by the ancient Japanese football game called kemari. Popular during the Heian period, between 794 and 1185, the noncompetitive sport was played by aristocrats in their gardens. During the games they’d wear spectacularly decorated kimonos.Maeda’s interpretation of athleisure looks something like this: velvet bike shorts lined at the sides with subtle ruffles, logo sweatbands, and tailored track pants in a mens-y plaid. Beyond that, she showed beautifully crafted pinstripe suiting and pretty but strong matte Japanese crepe dresses and tops. In fact, it wasn’t really athleisure at all, and that’s what made this collection so covetable. Maeda’s move toward a sportier vibe didn’t feel forced, and neither did the collaboration, which is hard to do these days. Collaborations—and for that matter athletic offshoot labels from established brands—are a dime a dozen. This whole collection came off as honest and organic, even with the ubiquitous bike shorts and logoed headgear. Maeda has proven herself to be a designer who never sacrifices her personality and point of view for a trend or a celebrity partnership. That’s what makes this slightly sportier new Adeam such a home run.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
February 10, 2020
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 324
|
||
Adeam
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,020
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
In the last year, Hanako Maeda has been busy building up a celebrity clientele. Michelle Obama and Oprah are fans of Maeda’s brand Adeam, and today, Maggie Gyllenhaal was seated in the front row at the Spring 2020 show. As the designer mentioned backstage, she’s also been creating a lot of custom pieces for her VIP clientele, and it got her thinking about adding more red carpet–worthy gowns and cocktail dresses to her repertoire. Maeda’s latest collection was thus directionally different, most visibly in the mermaid-inspired pearl- and Swarovski crystal–embellished tulle and organza confections that came sashaying down the runway this afternoon.Maeda has always been entranced by the Japanese kawaii aesthetic, which translates to something cute and princess-y, both apt descriptions of her floaty, ball skirt tulle dresses. It’s a fine idea and those dresses certainly were beautiful, but Maeda will really excel in the eveningwear category if she makes it an organic extension of her ready-to-wear. That means sharp tailoring and strong, structured silhouettes (less kawaii, more cool and modern), much like the black gown with one ruffled shoulder or the navy floor-length bell-sleeve dress embellished with one small line of pearls at the neckline. A wide-leg evening jumpsuit in the same hue with a cascading ruffle down the front was also peak Adeam at its most glam.That kind of architectural, intentional construction is what always makes Maeda’s ready-to-wear designs so lovable from season to season. For Spring, she continued to do daytime well with separates that recalled her parents’ hometown of Yokohama, which sits on the Tokyo Bay. Maeda riffed on sailor stripes and naval officer uniforms, the results of which were not only wearable but desirable, because they never felt too on-the-nose. They weren’t preppy or nautical, but they were personal—the special, singular items that a celebrity, or any woman, would love to own.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 7, 2019
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 325
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||
Adeam
|
resort-2020
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/adeam
| 2,020
|
resort
|
If the Fall 2019 runway collections proved anything, it was that the idea of a pantsuit, at least one cut like a man’s, is tired. In its most powerful and purest form, a women’s suit doesn’t straddle the gender lines. It’s crafted to hug and accentuate and amplify a woman’s body, however curvy or skinny or tall or imperfectly, beautifully shaped she might be.With Adeam, Hanako Maeda’s perspective revolves around practicality, even if her designs are elevated. For her, it’s not about playing to trends. This season she showcased her talents, crafting stylish, strong clothes for real, everyday women (plus Oprah, who just wore one of Maeda’s dresses to an event).The Adeam Resort 2020 collection is based around a traditional Japanese woodblock art calledkacho-ga. These prints depict soft, peaceful scenes of birds and flowers through serene colors like pastel peach and earthy green. Maeda personified the zen-like feeling one gets when viewing akacho-gathrough a lineup of clothes that were pretty and approachable but still disciplined as far as cut and silhouette are concerned. She achieved this through the asymmetrical long-sleeve peacoat and high-waisted bootleg pant, and through the double trench worn over a pressed ruffle dress. More playful tailoring was accented in a pair of patchwork jeans paired with a matching, off-the-shoulder denim corset top. Maeda incorporated beautiful freshwater pearl detailing onto her knitwear and tops, which gave another hint ofkacho-ga-like juxtaposition between the natural and the handmade. Adeam continues to be a strong brand as far as technique goes. And with tailoring currently leading the fashion conversation, Maeda is speaking the language well.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
June 4, 2019
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 326
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Hanako Maeda looked to six contemporary Japanese artists featured in the “STARS” exhibition at the Mori Art Museum to guide her fall 2021 collection. Silhouettes inspired by Yayoi Kusama’s sculptures and Hiroshi Sugimoto’s architecture photographs met modern details like exaggerated sleeves and two-piece sets.After spending more time than usual in Japan throughout the pandemic, Maeda found herself exploring the local factories and focusing more on craftsmanship. The standout look this season was a crinkled pleated poplin trouser paired with a matching blouse: “One of the great things about pleating is that it gives the fabric a natural stretch without it being a jersey fabric or a knit,” Maeda explained. The pleating details, which are specifically engineered for each A-line silhouette, draped the body while also lending a playful element of texture. Also new: a soft new micro-ribbed knit, work-from-home-friendly fabric that feels like sleepwear without looking slept-in.Versatility was stitched into this collection with a few convertible pieces, like a cutout silk dress, poplin-buttoned blouse, and double-faced jersey sweatshirt; each had detachable sleeves to create multiple looks. Other highlights include elevated outerwear options, like a belted wool poncho, and a new monogram logo, which Maeda splashed over headscarves. She also found inspiration in the JapaneseWashokucolor palette, mixing deep tones like violet and scarlet with lighter shades of blue and rosy pinks.Alongside her fall 2021 collection, Maeda introduced another labor of love: a genderless, size-inclusive line of streetwear. Styled to reflect how we’ve dressed based on our mood this year, Maeda worked closely with her male and nonbinary team members to make sure the collection was truly fluid. “I think it’s impossible to make something that fits every single person,” she said. “But I wanted to make sure the collection feels inclusive and feels comfortable for a lot of different people.”
|
Eliseé Browchuk
|
February 16, 2021
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 327
|
||
Adeam
|
pre-fall-2021
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2021/adeam
| 2,021
|
pre-fall
|
For pre-fall 2021, Adeam’s Hanako Maeda drew inspiration from her childhood memories spent at her family’s summer home in Kawaguchiko, a countryside escape near Japan’s Mount Fuji. “I wanted to focus on the more calm and serene aspect of summertime,” she explained of the easy, comforting vibe. Using shades of pastels that mimicked cherry blossoms, Maeda leaned into a “loose fullness,” with empire-waist dresses and flowing wrap skirts.The main print was an interpretation of Japan’s other native flower: hydrangeas, which bloomed over a trio of dresses. Maedam used a linen-like fabric that is both wrinkle-resistant and machine washable, making the Adeam woman’s day-to-day just a little easier come 2021.In this moment of waist-up dressing, elevated shoulders were a relevant highlight. The square-neck babydoll dresses felt put together for a Zoom call with colleagues, but could also be thrown over a swimsuit by the pool. Versatility was another focus this season, partly because the collection will ship in late spring, when the days are warm and the evenings are cool. The cotton cardigan sets and ruffled boleros came with a touch of nostalgia: “I wanted to do a youthful, modern take on a twin set,” Maeda said. “My mother used to wear a lot of knit twin sets, and it was kind of my quintessential idea of a polished woman.”Another standout this season was a convertible side-tie blouse. The superfine plissé top with cutout sleeves elevated both the pleated gingham chiffon shorts and palazzo pants it was paired with. Also new: the final three looks, which were part of Maeda’s first “room wear” collection. Made from the brand’s leftover deadstock fabrics, they’re a feminine take on loungewear, and will be available exclusively onadeam.com.
|
Eliseé Browchuk
|
December 7, 2020
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 328
|
|||
Adeam
|
spring-2021-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,021
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
A few days ago, Hanako Maeda presented her spring 2021 collection from her parent’s home in Tokyo. She was dressed casually and wearing glasses as she spoke about working remotely and sleeping in her childhood bedroom. The COVID-19 lockdowns have drastically changed the ways in which we live, and for Maeda, who runs a global business between New York and Japan, hitting pause was a shock to her system.But despite the pandemic, the ADEAM designer has been working hard on her spring 2021 collection. If these were normal times, Maeda would be prepping for a runway show at New York Fashion Week, one with an imaginative set design, inspiring music, and a front row filled with celebrities and influencers. Instead, Maeda drew inspiration from her surroundings in Tokyo and from the summer season, which, without the thousands of annual tourists the city usually welcomes, looked and felt completely different. Maeda actually had time to wander through the lush central gardens and listen to the sounds of cicadas. She thought often about these images as they were once conjured by the 17th-century Japanese poet Matsuo Bashō.Her spring collection speaks to this feeling of summertime serenity, via breezy cotton and linen fabrics and loose, airy silhouettes. Knits were oversized and cozy, while Maeda used soft Japanese crepe for a hoodie dress with a flounced hem and striped indigo and camel linen for wide-leg trousers and tiered shirt dresses. Convertibility was key, as it often is with Maeda’s designs, whether that means trompe l’oeil detailing or a two-in-one garment that can be tied or twisted or tucked to the wearer’s liking. One of the most thoughtful pieces was a riff on a traditional Yukata, which is a more casual, comfortable version of a traditional kimono that can be worn both at home and outdoors.Speaking of the outdoors, the designer filmed her collection in the grounds of the Meiji Kinenkan, a reception hall that was built in 1881 near the Akasaka Temporary Palace. It was a smart location for Maeda, since her aesthetic blends organic ease and practicality with something bold and regal, even. Her clothes are luxurious but not over-the-top. It’s what makes ADEAM’s brand resonate with a broad customer base.
|
Brooke Bobb
|
September 14, 2020
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 329
|
||
Adeam
|
fall-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Hanako Maeda is celebrating 10 years of her label Adeam this season. As such, she’s indulging in some well-deserved nostalgia. First, she remembered her earliest memories of living in New York, when she would walk in Central Park after school in the fall. The other core memory informing the season is her New York Fashion Week debut in fall 2013, when she presented anInto the Woodsinspired collection.Both are equally important in understanding the fall 2022 collection, though the academic influence is often more apparent than the fairy tale. In 2013, the collection was dressier and darker. Maeda’s feminine aesthetic was apparent, but it wasn’t as refined or individualized as it is now. What a difference a decade makes.For womenswear this season, Maeda honed in on wearable everyday pieces with a scholastic edge, many of which can be converted or styled differently. The look book opens with a puffer jacket deliberately deconstructed to show the detachable sleeves and skirt. This versatility, which is repeated in shirts and even knits, can be really effective especially when the mechanics of how you’d take something apart or put it back together are hidden.This season is two collections in one: the main womenswear collection and Ichi, a unisex, less expensive line. Again, the uniform influences are apparent, though via asymmetric polo shirts and khaki pants rather than pleated skirts and sweaters. Someone, go flag theGossip Girlwardrobe team.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
February 14, 2022
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 330
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||
Adeam
|
pre-fall-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/adeam
| 2,022
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pre-fall
|
Hanako Maeda was reminiscing on past summers while dreaming up her pre-fall collection, specifically a semester when she studied abroad at Parsons in Paris, traveling within France and to Lake Como on the weekends. The memory of those idyllic European landscapes provided ample inspiration, both for the floral print seen throughout and the sailor motifs.The collection opened with a beautiful encyclopedic print of flowers she would have seen in France, labeled with biological descriptions. “A lot of the time floral prints can feel a little too girly,” said Maeda. “I wanted to create something that felt a bit more mature.” The Boardwalk top featured convertible ties that are styled as a halter-neck in the look book, but can also be worn as a bow tie or scarf. Paired with a matching skirt, it looked like something a duchess might wear to a charity luncheon.Oversized collars have featured in Adeam collections for a few seasons now; this time Maeda expanded on the nautical theme. Her modern version of the sailor top was a slouchy white tee with a scarf in the aforementioned botanical print pre-tied. Paired with butter yellow wide-leg trousers with a rope tie on the front, it created a whisper of a sailor’s uniform. A boatneck Breton-stripe top with the same pants in navy and white was far more literal and, as a result, less interesting.Maeda is focused on versatility and wearability. Many of the designs in the collection featured details that can be altered or styled differently depending on the wearer and their mood. “When I create a piece, it’s not fully complete until it’s in the hands of the person who is wearing it,” she said. The finale outfit embraced this philosophy while also offering a sleeker outlook for a brand known for its feminine designs.A poppy red halter top with buttons down the side paired with roomy matching trousers almost looked like a jumpsuit. Maeda said the fabric is wrinkle-resistant, making it an easy set to throw in a suitcase for special occasions. It would be just the thing for a night of pasta and red wine overlooking the Mediterranean, without having to worry about spills. Here’s hoping by the time the collection arrives that will be a possibility for now-dormant travelers.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
December 6, 2021
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 331
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|||
Adeam
|
spring-2022-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,022
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
When presented with the challenge of creating a digital fashion show during a global pandemic, there are two main schools of thought: Either you use limitations to your advantage and make a collection that highlights the beauty of making do, or you turn to the unlimited resources of the internet and technology and make a virtual fantasy to showcase real clothes. For spring, Hanako Maeda, the designer of Adeam, chose the latter (though she went with the former for the resort 2021 season).The resulting digital show’s CGI landscape, Adeam Island, is rosy with crystal blue waters punctuated improbably by palm trees. The models walk along a narrow strip that calls to mind the highway around Australia’s famous pink lake. The cast is visibly pasted in, and the effect is more like a collage than a standard video. The clothes evoke a true lady on vacation: someone who will relax at the beach and sip a mojito but still makes sure to pack gray, windowpane-printed, chambray suit separates in case they’re needed.That is true to the longstanding vision of the Adeam woman. Maeda is known for creating ever-appropriate feminine clothes that make just enough of a statement. This season, the most casual pieces are a souvenir-like graphic T-shirt and an anklet made from shells and baroque pearls. The label’s take on a Hawaiian print (you know, the kind that tourist dads wear?) appears on satin twill in blouses and dresses. A standout look is a baby blue basketweave tank top with fringe paired with coordinating wide-leg trousers. A little edge would have been nice, but our stay at Adeam Island was certainly easy breezy.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
September 8, 2021
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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] | 0
|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 332
|
||
Adeam
|
resort-2022
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/adeam
| 2,022
|
resort
|
Though many who grew up in the early aughts protest, Y2K fashion has officially been revived. Just a quick scroll through TikTok will show you that Gen Z has embraced the high-gloss look resplendent with rhinestones, low-rises, and lots and lots of skin. For resort 2022, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda joined the pack of designers looking to put their own spin on the trend but in a way that felt true to her tasteful emerging label. “When you look at TikTok or the next generation, it’s too literal an interpretation for me,” she said. “So I wanted to do it in a way that feels more acceptable to people who were teenagers or adults at the time.”She was inspired by her own wardrobe as a teenager growing up in Azabu, Tokyo, when she listened to grunge and punk music and wore a uniform to school. As a result of this personal backstory, you’d have to really squint to find recognizable Y2K hallmarks, though that’s likely to appeal to a wider range of customers than a literal interpretation. In the first look, she reimagined a uniform cardigan and flannel pants as a convertible knit top featuring a removable wide collar and cuffs, with pants made of plissé gingham chiffon. Maeda also says that she used to wear oversized shirts as dresses in the era; that look is shown here as shirtdresses and T-shirt dresses with tie details along the waist. Among the most obvious nods to the early aughts are the trompe l’oeil double waistbands, placed on flowing midiskirts and denim minis, that mimic a teenage boy’s sagging jeans in a way that will appeal to the refined Adeam customer.Some references are more ’90s, like the dress with a plissé gingham skirt and a white tie on the waist, and a top that resembles a T-shirt over a flannel shirt. The latter is distinctly feminine and is paired with sensible white pants and slip-on loafers, suggesting, as the rest of the collection does, that the punk grew up and got a penthouse on the Upper East Side.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
June 11, 2021
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 333
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,023
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The angel from my nightmareThe shadow in the background of the morgueThe unsuspecting victimOf darkness in the valleyWe can live like Jack and Sally if we want.You read that right: Blink 182’s “Miss You” is being quoted in an Adeam review. The teenage angst anthem of the 2000s was on the soundtrack of Hanako Maeda’s fall 2023 collection. While the last few seasons saw Maeda steer Adeam down a whimsical, almost saccharine path—her cutesy lineup for spring being the climax of this idea—for fall she entered darker territory.“This season my inspiration was music,” Maeda said backstage right before the show, “most specifically the music I was listening to in my childhood,” she added, explaining that as we’ve seen Y2K exhaustingly bleed into the runways and people’s closets, she was curious about what culture she was consuming during that time. “My childhood was a lot more punk or emo, I listened to pop-punk like Blink 182 or Green Day, so a lot of the textiles and silhouettes come from that subculture of fashion.” Other inspirations include Harajuku and the gothic face of Lolita style.This melting pot of influences resulted in a surprisingly focused lineup. Colorful tartans were cut into tailored skirts and dresses and styled under silk blouses and sleeve sets. Lace opera gloves and pleated tulle accents captured the sweet end of Harajuku, while black leather harnessing, pleated tulle accents, and leather skirts imbued the darkness of gothic Lolita in the collection. Maeda loves modularity, and so has embedded this idea deep into Adeam’s DNA. This season she made the best use of this language in her evening offering: Many of the puff sleeves on the runway were removable, and look five, for instance, consisted of a skirt and a top. “Options are important,” she said.For day, Maeda cut tailored coat dresses and jackets in double-faced wool and silk in what was some of her sharpest tailoring, and introduced leather separates in addition to a beautiful knit dress draped in a soft pink ribbed knit. This was the “Sally” in the collection, if you will.The “Jack” showed up after an interlude guided by a Japanese musician known as “Samurai Guitarist.” Maeda presented her latest collection for her ICHI line, the more affordable gender-neutral collection under Adeam. This was the runway debut of the collection, and this section of the show leaned into grunge as its main reference. The decision to show both collections together allowed Maeda to push her main line to the evening space she’s been toying with of late; the presence of ICHI eased the load of having to dress down her woman to find versatility in her wardrobe proposals.The fifteen looks added a necessary edge to the collection, and the oversized silhouettes shared across male, female, and non-binary models offered a compelling point of view on layering. It was definitely grunge with all the plaids, Doc Martens, pocket chains, and painted nails, though one almost wishes it was dirtier, messier, and slightly, well,grungier. The ripped sweater in look 39 was a great start. After all, what made grunge cool was not just the clothes, but the ease and preternatural angst of its subjects. Where Maeda did less with more and leaned into this vibe, her ICHI collection was at its strongest.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
February 12, 2023
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 334
|
||
Adeam
|
pre-fall-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/adeam
| 2,023
|
pre-fall
|
Adeam’s Hanako Maeda grew up in between New York City and Japan. She spent many of her childhood summers in the resorts of Kawaguchiko, one of the five lakes located at the base of Mount Fuji, where her preferred activity was tennis. For pre-fall, she. ruminated on her memories of the preppy tennis outfits that were a sartorial common denominator between New York and her summers in Japan.Rather than rehash country club outfits, Maeda stayed true to her label’s hybrid sensibility and merged this stylistic archetype with the fashion of contemporary Japan. “Something that is very interesting now in Japan is that the younger generation is really into American vintage, but in a very Japanese way,” she said. “It’s very oversized, deconstructed, and with a lot of layering.”Maeda’s reimaginings of oxford stripe shirtings took the form of white cotton layered with sheer striped fabric and cut into loose and pleated summer dresses. She could’ve expanded on this idea. Cut & sew knitwear looked particularly sharp. An elongated cardigan/pleated dress combo was her most successful hybrid, but closely following it were a blush double-collar oxford stripe off-the-shoulder blouse, and a poplin button-down/knit polo mashup. To add visual interest, Maeda included a vibrant jacquarded windowpane plaid, though this would have sat better with the rest of the lineup had the green base been closer to the grass green hue used elsewhere.Adeam returned to New York Fashion Week for spring, and celebrated 10 years in business with a collaboration with model Carolyn Murphy. Maeda’s next step, she says, is to expand her retail presence stateside, in Japan, and the rest of Asia. “It would be fun to expand our reach, going global is my next goal,” she shared.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
December 8, 2022
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 335
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|||
Adeam
|
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,023
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Hanako Maeda was in a celebratory mood for spring: it’s her label’s 10th anniversary. Today’s Adeam show, held at the penthouse of One Hudson Square, marked the brand’s return to the runway after almost three years. “I still cherish the excitement of my first time presenting at Fashion Week,” wrote Maeda in her show notes, “and it feels like a homecoming to return for our anniversary show.” The show was intimate, lighthearted. Supermodels Karen Elson and Carolyn Murphy sat front row, the latter of whom recently partnered with the brand on a capsule to celebrate this same anniversary.Matsuri, the Japanese summer festival, served as the starting point for Maeda’s spring collection. Its festive fireworks, contagious uplifting mood, and colorful paper lanterns (which were spread throughout the show both on the floor and off the ceiling) provided visual references for Maeda’s lineup. The season's print came inspired by traditional Japanese woodblock prints. It only came in two of 30 looks, but, together with textural plaids and stripes in separates, it was enough to provide a novelty space for Maeda’s mostly solid color assortment.The collection was sweet and sentimental, its pastels and ruffles teetering on the edge between saccharine and earnest. It was most persuasive when Maeda leaned fully into the jolliness of her source of inspiration and took it to a more contemporary space. Crystal tights, gloves, and transparency in other places added the right amount of whimsy to the collection, while Croc inspired platform clogs in patent finishes lent a slightly quirky edge.Per usual, Maeda worked in cutouts and versatile styling. This was strongest in a series of floor-length silky dresses with a cutout in the abdomen that could be dressed up to feel like eveningwear or down as casual daywear. Maeda’s shirting was strong, especially a tiered puff sleeve button down with a shirred yoke. This designer also loves separates and modularity; she often layers pieces together to create less conventional silhouettes out of them. This worked best this season with a modern interpretation of the traditional Japanese obi belt worn as a corset or harness skirt.Maeda has found her way around building a signature look out of the separates and versatility her customer seeks. If she continues to be true to her customer’s needs while honing into her own signatures and idiosyncratic aesthetic, she might have another ten years or more on her horizon.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 15, 2022
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 336
|
||
Adeam
|
resort-2023
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/adeam
| 2,023
|
resort
|
This is a big year for Adeam and its founder Hanako Maeda. The label is celebrating its 10th-year anniversary, planning a return to New York Fashion Week this September, and launching a collaboration with Carolyn Murphy later this month at a pop-up store on Madison Avenue.While Maeda’s fall 2022 collection focused on nostalgia, looking back at the preppy academic style of her childhood in New York City and herInto the Woodsinspired first collection, she is looking decisively into the future for resort. “There was a lot of looking back the past few seasons,” she said during a preview, “but this season I wanted to look ahead and focus on the technical aspects of creating shape.” To do so, she looked closely at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s collection, which she used to visit often–there is definitely some nostalgia left in her, but her outlook for resort felt fresher and lighter.Maeda’s main inspiration was Isamu Noguchi’s “Water Stone,” a stone-sculpted fountain set in an abstract garden that explores the relationship between exterior and interior space. This translated into deftly cut and draped pieces, most asymmetrical and made in monochrome colors.A short trench jacket captured her East-meets-West aesthetic by merging the outerwear with a kimono, it was the most successful out of three trench experiments. The Noguchi inspiration translated the best into a navy sweater patchworked with five types of ribbed knit in different widths, mimicking the artist’s focus on texture and shadow over color.This practice of patchwork and bricolage featured prominently in Maeda’s mind this season; constructing versatile pieces became a priority. “After the pandemic, the customer wants to find something they can dress up or down,” she said. While some looks came off slightly over-complicated, she had luck layering knitwear over woven items. The two-in-one nature of these pieces appears to be resonating with her customers. She says they’re doing well in both her Japanese and American markets, as they reflect the ease of pandemic dressing while feeling “a little bit more designed, more put together.”“I feel like this season is almost a palette cleanser,” she said. That’s an apt description of not just the collection, but also Maeda’s frame of mind as she looks forward to 10 more years of Adeam.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
June 6, 2022
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 337
|
|||
Adeam
|
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,024
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
For Hanako Maeda, opposites attract. “I feel like throughout this collection you see this dichotomy between something that feels more romantic versus something that feels more minimal, between fabrics that are constructed and fabrics that are soft,” the creative director of New York and Tokyo based Adeam said from her studio in Ginza. A knit top was layered underneath a leather bustier, a denim skirt came with asymmetrical pleated chiffon paneling, and a peekaboo black lace turtleneck peeked out from a gap in a crisp white oxford. Meanwhile, the traditionally masculine suit was given a feminine, flirty edge via an off the shoulder jacket with dangling belted straps.Whereas for pre-fall Maeda embraced a cheery color palette of yellow, greens, and blues inspired by the Amalfi Coast, this collection returned to her signature muted hues. Part of this was, sure, the season—these clothes are meant to be worn in the fall and winter by her dedicated urban customers. (New Yorkers, they love their blacks and grays.) Yet it goes beyond utilitarian practicality: Maeda believes that the detailed craftsmanship of the clothes shows better when the silhouettes are the eye’s main focus. “I feel like when you have a lot of loud prints or loud colors, sometimes it's difficult to see the details of the garment,” she said. “I really wanted the color palette to be subdued but play more with textures.” One all-black look, for example, had vegan leather as well as matted fabric. Those subtle, tactical details are much more apparent to the wearer when in monochrome. “You really see the handwork of the people that are creating and sewing the pieces,” Maeda said.That was another goal of Maeda’s: to show off the meticulous work of Japanese artisans. Adeam makes everything in Japan. They have an in-house workroom filled with pattern-makers and sewers, and their factories are in the Kanto region just outside Tokyo. “I really wanted to focus on this idea of Japanese craftsmanship and highlighting it,” she said. A number of suits showed off the sharp preciseness of their tailoring.For the select eveningwear pieces, Maeda played with color more. A chiffon suit came in a cherry red; dresses were in maroon and a shimmery powder blue. It could be hard to connect the more streamlined, sharp looks to these flashy, feminine pieces, as beautiful as they were. But even the most dedicated of minimalists sometimes like to switch up their shades.Along with her womenswear collection, Maeda also released the newest pieces for Ichi, her gender-neutral line. They’re meant to be wardrobe workhorses that become the backbones of one’s everyday dressing: think classic zip jackets in tans and blacks, oversize sweater vests, and wrap-around scarves. Whether you want to embrace a style statement or just a style staple, Maeda has something for you.
|
Elise Taylor
|
February 12, 2024
|
Hanako Maeda
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 338
|
||
Adeam
|
pre-fall-2024
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/adeam
| 2,024
|
pre-fall
|
Hanako Maeda is perennially inspired by Tokyo and New York, but this season she brought a little dolce vita into her sensible modern wardrobe. If her spring collection was a serious alternative to balletcore, pre-fall takes tomato girl summer to task. “I was really inspired by my trip visiting the south of Italy,” Maeda said. “The scenery, all the vegetation, like the trees, and the olives, and blood orange, and the citrus-y lemon color.” The color palette is certainly villa-ready, but the fabrications are equally summer-y and practical: lots of linen and cotton twill, mixed with organza and some easy knit cardigans. Maeda was also influenced by Italians’ penchant for striped shirting. Her version mixes sizes of stripes for a more dimensional look.A classic Adeam dress in the collection is the pale blue striped Amalfi dress, with a shirt collar, wrap waist, full sleeves, and a pleated mini skirt. It’s a style that could work in many of Maeda’s collections as it’s easy and feminine. Same goes for the blood orange Bella dress, which is a modern, more sophisticated update to a classic fit-and-flare. It’s a holiday-inspired collection, but there’s plenty that could work for more corporate settings, too. Consider the dark linen vest and trouser set, or the sensible beige twin-set. It doesn’t look out of place. Quite the contrary, since you get the sense that the Adeam woman is always perfectly put together, whether she’s in New York, Tokyo, or Capri.
|
Sarah Spellings
|
December 4, 2023
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 339
|
|||
Adeam
|
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,024
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
In case you missed it, balletcore took over the micro-trend TikTok multiverse last year. Such was the virality of the trend that it bled onto the runways and many a magazine’s website, including this one.But Adeam’s Hanako Maeda did not have TikTok—and its ballet flats and pale tights and frilly tutus and cutesy bows—in mind when she started working on her spring 2024 collection. She was thinking of the real thing. “When people think about ballet, they think of something that’s romantic and delicate and pretty,” said the designer backstage at her runway show this afternoon, “but I wanted to focus on ballet as a sport.”The athleticism Maeda had in mind took shape most prominently in the collection’s tights, which she crisscrossed the way dancers do their pointe shoes. “I know a lot of people are into the pantless look right now, so I wanted to do it in a more elegant way,” she explained. The impetus of the collection may not directly be the TikTok craze, but don’t discount Maeda’s curiosity and appetite for reinterpreting what folks are currently fascinated with, even if her take on the trend played closer to athleisure. Once again, the athleisure-fication of fashion has proven impossible to run from this spring season—meet your customer where they are, it’s been said.More compelling were Maeda’s less literal interpretations of ballet. She used small pleats and shirred tulle to evoke the dynamic but graceful movement of a dancer, which was captured best by a skirt with two pleated panels layered on top of each other at the sides and a striking fully sheer hoodie with shirred tulle accents. There was also a run of sheer corseted jackets and dresses built to resemble crinolines. These veered closer to costume territory but added a layer of allure to Maeda’s otherwise sweet collection, ditto the sheer knits she layered under dresses.In case you needed confirmation that Maeda sees ballet as more than a fleeting internet-diluted trend, the designer partnered with New York City Ballet once again—the first time was in 2015 when she designed costumes for its fall gala—to have one of its principal dancers, Tiler Peck, perform at the closing of the show. That’s as real as it gets.
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
September 10, 2023
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
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| 340
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Adeam
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resort-2024
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/adeam
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resort
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Adeam’s Hanako Maeda has been designing for more than 10 years. Now that she’s reached her mid-thirties, as she shared over Zoom, her point of view has evolved. Both Adeam and Maeda have grown up, as has her customer, she said. It’s through this introspection that she arrived at her resort 2024 collection.“I feel like my last collection was very focused on a theme,” Maeda said of her punk-inspired fall 2023 lineup. “I love what I did, but when I design for a runway show I’m always focused on a specific concept.” For resort, rather than hone in on a mood, she decided to focus on “the building blocks of what the Adeam wardrobe is.” While it’s true that every designer aims to deliver “a wardrobe”—a less crass way of referring to a commercial assortment—for resort and pre-fall, Maeda seems earnest in her attempt at paring things down.The most important part of the Adeam design philosophy, the designer explained, is the idea of convertibility. Opening the look book is a belted cropped jacket, which reappears later as a trench coat—the piece is modular and can be either a short jacket, a long trench, or a long vest. Modular and convertible fashion can oftentimes feel over-designed, but Maeda has the right approach in designing with her customer’s lifestyle in mind: “This is great for traveling, because it’s three looks in one, also, when you invest in a designer-price-point piece, you want it to feel timeless and like something you can wear in more than one occasion and past a single season.” Another example is a knit dress that breaks down into a skirt and either a long-sleeve sweater or a sleeveless top.Elsewhere, Maeda played off this utilitarian design sensibility by adding workwear details onto denim and tailoring. A run of three dresses taps into the whimsy of Adeam while adhering to the brief of this collection; they look both interesting and easy to wear.Spread throughout the otherwise streamlined silhouettes in this lineup you’ll spot a peplum or two. Peplums were big in the first half of the 2010s, their popularity often attributed to the explosion of business casual in the mainstream. They’ve had a slow but steady return over the last couple of seasons, and Maeda here makes a solid statement for their comeback. “I like this idea of returning to something that feels classic or a bit retro,” she said, “but it’s also a flattering proportion, and it can be feminine and romantic while being modern.” That’s something else maturity will give you: hindsight. Why not revisit the things that have made us feel our best?
|
José Criales-Unzueta
|
June 5, 2023
|
Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
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| 341
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Adeam
|
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/adeam
| 2,025
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
InThe Devil Wears Prada, Meryl Streep’s Miranda Priestly famously rolls her eyes at the constant presence of flowers in spring collections. “Florals, for spring? Groundbreaking,” she tells her editors. With all due respect to Mrs. Priestley, in the case of Adeam, it did feel like an exciting feat.This season, the New York and Tokyo-based designer Hanako Maeda set out to honorikebana, the Japanese art of floral arranging. (In Japan ikebana, is treated with the same seriousness as painting or sculpture, explained Maeda.) In her first look, a strapless minidress pinned with an abundant array of yellow and white silk flowers, she embraced the technique literally: “The process of making this dress was actually very similar to doing actualikebana,” she said. “When you make ikebana arrangements, you have a tray with needles— which is calledkenzanin Japanese. You put the stem of the flower onto the needle and put them in place. Then you keep on adding more flowers and branches to create this flower arrangement. So this dress was created in a similar way, where I was just organically placing flowers.” (Maeda said it took her over a day to place them and three more to sew them strategically into place.)She also explored a more conceptual interpretation. A minidress with a ball gown skirt featured an artful organza ruffle that mimicked “a cascading flower petal going down the vines,” she said. (Although the model who wore it, Maeda’s friend Yuka, offered her own interpretation: “This dress reminds me of a cappuccino foam,” she told the designer while trying it on.) A sheer button down shirt was adorned with delicate floral embroidery that appeared to bend with the body, as did a pair of flared pale blue pants. Meanwhile, Maeda made a number of looks with matelassé fabrics, stitched with an intricate sunflower pattern. Speaking of specific blooms—the designer used flowers native to Japan. A bra top featured white hydrangeas, which spring up across the country during the rainy season in June. Mimosas were accents on shoes, and blue camellias lined a skirt.Not wanting to seem too overly sweet, Maeda smartly stuck with a muted palette: blacks, creams, whites, and navy were her go-tos, along with dusty pinks and blues. “I really like the balance between something that feels a little bit more effortless and sporty with something that feels romantic and delicate,” she said.Examine her lookbook closely, and you’ll see that aforementioned bra top pop up in several of her looks. This was Maeda’s attempt at both practicality—see, it’s a style that can be worn in more than way!—yet also ephemerality: “Ikebana is so beautiful because it doesn't last forever,” she said. “I wanted to reflect this philosophy in the styling of the collection. The pieces really morph with how the wearer wants to style the piece.”
|
Elise Taylor
|
September 9, 2024
|
Hanako Maeda
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Hanako Maeda
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resort-2025
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/adeam
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resort
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Hanako Maeda’s Adeam is inspired by her own upbringing; she was born in Tokyo but grew up in New York City, and her label fuses the fashion she wears in both cities. “My own life experience does have this kind of duality between the Eastern world and the Western world,” she said.For her resort 2025 collection, she decided to take a macro view of her own micro experience. Japan and the West have a long, rich history of influencing each other’s art: Commodore Matthew Perry’s opening of trade routes between Japan and Europe in the mid-19th century led to the Japonisme movement after creatives like Edgar Degas and Éduoard Manet were exposed to their restrained, uncluttered aesthetic. Fast-forward to the modern day, where Japanese bakeries often blend flavors like yuzu matcha into traditional French desserts. “This exchange of cultural ideas between the East and the West isn’t a one-way street,” Maeda says. “You see French and European influences in Japanese culture, and vice versa.”So, Maeda decided to pay homage to this historical relationship through her clothes. She embraced dusty Impressionist-like hues for many of her Japanese tailored jackets and pants. Tulle skirts with frills—reminiscent of a Degas ballerina—are made in muted shades associated with the legendary Kano school in Kyoto. “I wanted to combine something romantic and soft with something that feels more structured,” she said. Meanwhile, a green minidress feels like the sartorial equivalent of a famous Lady M matcha crepe cake, without being overly sweet. “I feel like it is a little bit more relaxed, rather than prim and proper,” Maeda added.The designer also continues to play with texture, rather than color, making a look stand out: knits are mixed with jersey, whereas a sweatshirt top has a tulle skirt underneath. “I played with a lot of different elements,” she said. It seems Maeda was all about mixing and matching—on literal and metaphorical levels.
|
Elise Taylor
|
June 12, 2024
|
Hanako Maeda
|
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|
Hanako Maeda
|
Hanako Maeda
| 0
| 343
|
|||
Agnona
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Collezione Uno, Stefano Pilati'ssecondcollection for Agnona (the first being the ground Zero of his creative directorship), was a more complete offering than his first: more eveningwear, something for the cocktail category, a signature bag, plus the beauteous Dree Hemingway as the face of the label. But Inez and Vinoodh were still responsible for the imagery, and Pilati, although once againphysicallyabsent from the presentation, waspsychicallyvery present. That's because Dree was such a competent ambassador."She's a strong girl with a secret," was her take on the Agnona woman. "And you can hide many secrets in these clothes." What she meant was that Pilati had created luxurious, cocooning volumes in cashmere and alpaca. There were coats you could move into, and damn the mortgage payments. Even when outfits were cinched at the waist, they were generous in volume. And the long dresses were hung with an unhindered high priestessly-ness. There was something veryAmericanabout them: straightforward and sensual. Pilati wanted to convey the impression of a woman in constant movement, so the leitmotif of the collection was a wave pattern, debossed tone-on-tone on a navy coat, or undulating everywhere in colors he called "dusty brights." The pink and turquoise were particularly striking.It's a true testament to the vision of the Zegnas that they've given Pilati Agnona to play with. And itisall him. He talked about how he wanted to convey the image of agrande bourgeoisein Inez and Vinoodh's pictures of Dree, but there was a twisted, hard little edge: thigh boots and leather collars, a white cotton shirt edged in zippers. A Belle de Jour for now.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 21, 2014
|
Stefano Pilati
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 344
|
||
Agnona
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
If the launch of Stefano Pilati's first collection for Agnona was somewhat unconventional, his intentions for the label are nothing less. He is making a stab at genuinely season-less dressing, and, to underscore that, the launch took place in a pop-up shop where people could immediately buy the clothes and see prototypes of upcoming pieces. Pilati decided to stay away because he wanted the focus to fall firmly on the clothes, but his presence still filled the room. For one thing, the collection was dominated by a checkered motif called Palaka, taken from a Japanese fabric that was originally used for surfers' shirts and shirts in Hawaii, where Pilati came across it in a vintage shop. It took us back to the surfboard that was propped in the corner of his office at YSL. Surfing in Hawaii was always his escape.Another signature Pilati flourish: He labeled his debut ZERO, after Group ZERO, an affiliation of avant-garde artists that came together in Düsseldorf during the late fifties. Their manifesto called for creativity unfettered by tradition. Given that Agnona turns 60 this year, it would be a wonder if Pilati didn't have tradition on his mind, with a little unfettering not far behind. Revolution at Zegna, evolution at Agnona: That was how one insider defined the designer's approach to his new role with the Zegna Group. But evolution wasn't quite it. It was more like reinvention.Agnona is best-known for its double-faced cashmere. Pilati kept that bit of the past, by double-facing not just cashmere but everything else from kid mohair to stretch cotton. Otherwise, the play with proportions was purest Pilati: the short jacket sleeve over the long shirt sleeve; the bigger, softer jacket shoulder; the culotte; the shirttail coat; the long jacket over short shorts. The languor and the occasional masc/fem ambiguity of the clothes were familiar. One khaki coat could have come straight from Pilati's own closet. Then there was the Palaka, as a woven or a print, fused with florals, on a leather coat, and even printed on a short-sleeved jacket in crocodile. The casual extravagance of such a gesture—onlyyouknow it's croc—also felt like a welcome blast from Pilati's past.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 17, 2013
|
Stefano Pilati
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 345
|
||
Agnona
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
When Stefano Pilati pitched his tent at Agnona, he was deliberately a shadow figure. He wanted a clear division between his creative duties there and at its menswear counterpart, Zegna. There would be no shows for Agnona, no designer appearances. He would be a presence unseen. But, oh, how he was felt. The Pilati signature was that distinctive. Now, a couple of years have passed, Agnona debuts its smart new space in Milan, and lo! Pilati is on hand to greet visitors, walk them through the new collection, and talk with refreshing honesty about ironing out the wrinkles."At first I was a bit frustrated with not showing," Pilati admitted. "But now I'm enjoying that I've taken the time. I was able to develop a business structure, and because I wasn't reacting mechanically to deadlines, I've also had the luxury of developing the brand." And that has brought Pilati to a point where he is happy to acknowledge the symbiosis between Zegna and Agnona. "There's a self-assurance that comes from menswear," he said. So there were not just fabrics carried over from Zegna's menswear—the sensational Century cashmere, cut here into dresses, tunics, coats over trousers—but also an attitude, "a fantasy about identity," Pilati called it. "I work on cut and silhouette most of the time, so the details are symbolic," he added cryptically. If that meant a zipper pull exotically shaped like an elongated crescent moon, then so be it. But there were also a cabled sweaterdress with a thick fringe and an equally heavily fringed poncho that spoke to something much gutsier. The culotte jumpsuit, a particular favorite of Pilati's, had a Cossack back. And the coats—always a high point in a Pilati collection—were fluidly caped.Drama attaches itself to Pilati. That is undoubtedly hard for him as an individual, but as a designer it's the kind of asset that subtly elevated the collection he showed for Agnona. And now that he has built an overt bridge to his sterling work at Zegna, things can only get better.
|
Tim Blanks
|
February 27, 2015
|
Stefano Pilati
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 346
|
||
Agnona
|
spring-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
If you were going to give a snappy title to today's presentation of Stefano Pilati's third collection for Agnona, Old Egypt and New Bondage would probably do it. Pilati's not a fan of nostalgia in fashion, but as he was working the volumes of his new looks, he made a silhouette out of a paneled skirt that reminded him of something he'd seen in a book about ancient Egypt, a period so long ago that nostalgia was safely out of the picture.A papyrus inspired the ancient Egyptian floral motif that was applied with a water laser to a gorgeous sand-colored suede coatdress (an ordinary laser would burn the delicate hide). Hieroglyphics traced silk knitwear, and a trio of sequined dresses were colored jade, amethyst, and amber, which Pilati took for ancient stones. The bags and shoes were a Pharaonic gold. So were the "Rolex" bracelets—like faceless watches "to convey the idea of a timeless woman," according to the designer.The initial challenge Pilati set himself was how to wrap a skirt from a single piece of fabric without it looking like a pareo. His solution? Curving slashes. Pilati cut them into skirts, dresses, and a cape. He thought it was a kind of punkish action, so the result inevitably reminded him of new bondage straps. And if it was a challenge to Pilati, it will be even more so to his Agnona customers. But Pilati paired these pieces with jackets and morning coats in double-face "Century Cashmere," the lightest luxury fiber known to womankind. So it was a win-win situation for the avant-garde and the accessible. Besides, the entire sidewall of the presentation space was lined with commercial distillations of Pilati's ideas, and quietly ravishing they were, too.
|
Tim Blanks
|
September 19, 2014
|
Stefano Pilati
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 347
|
||
Agnona
|
resort-2015
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/agnona
| 2,015
|
resort
|
The simplest definition of Agnona under the creative directorship of Stefano Pilati would be that it is Ermenegildo Zegna for women, though Pilati himself would never want you to say that. Still, there was enough DNA shared between the Zegna men's show on Saturday morning and the Agnona Resort show that Pilati presented later in the day to make the two collections at the very least kissin' cousins.The Agnona woman as Pilati sees her has always been surrounded by powerful, entrepreneurial men, and she plays with their wardrobe. Hence the ambiguous spirit that was almost as strong in Agnona Resort as it was on the Zegna catwalk. Case in point: The tailored jumpsuit in a charcoal silken micro-tweed, with matching blazer. Paired with loafers, the look had a sartorial sobriety that read more masculine. But the jumpsuit was actually asalopette,or overalls. "See, she's completely feminine," Pilati insisted. "All the tops in the collection are backless."The feminizing of masculine details could almost be a running theme in Pilati's work (equally, the masculinizing of feminine details). Here, for instance, a classic shirt collar was dropped to form a neckline, and the plastron of a tuxedo shirt was turned into stripes for a shirt and skirt. Speaking of stripes, the designer's yen to experiment has meshed with Zegna's fabric technology to produce Century double-face cashmere, so called because it is Super 100 cashmere, a whole lot finer than the previous industry standard of Super 160 (measuring infinitesimal degrees of fiber diameter). The material defined the collection. "Double cashmere with a summer attitude," said Pilati, cutting the cashmere into a striped blazer, cardigan-soft, and a spectacular dress that wasn't much more than a simple square held in back by two darts.Thinking about other things that define Pilati as a designer, languorous sensuality comes to mind. For Agnona, he made coats cut on the bias. When he carved a pocket from the fabric, it was so sharp and flat that it disappeared. In gold Lurex, the coat is almost all you'd need for a night out.
|
Tim Blanks
|
June 20, 2014
|
Stefano Pilati
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 348
|
|||
Agnona
|
fall-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
At last,Agnonagets a show—in a conspicuously modest space—and a dedicated designer in (the conspicuously modest) Simon Holloway. When Zegna charged him with jump-starting its previously stalled attempt at reviving this ’50s-era knitwear label as the feminine counterpoint to Zegna itself, Holloway said, “the brief was wide open.”“This is everything I love as a designer—beautiful expensive fabrics, exquisite workmanship,” he added. “And what I think was really surprising for me was that the Agnona archive was so much more creative and interesting that it had appeared from the outside. They made fabric for every major couturier from the 1950s onwards, and they still are.”While trawling those archives, Holloway discovered a recurring seasonal use of soft nude tones as a baseline palette, so naturally he restored it here. Those tones though were often subtly underlaid with stronger stuff. The opening bias-cut slip dress in “Century” cashmere—of a micron so fine and a cost so high as to be barely creditable—was double-faced with a hue of apricot intense enough to pulse discernably through that outer layer. Furs—something inconsistent with the Agnona backstory—were used here not as superiors but as complementary equals to the house knits around them. So the sleeves of one coat mixed goat and fox to mimic the just as lustrous checked alpaca of its body. Another hybrid blended lavender and gray brushed alpaca in a herringbone on its top, then mink and fox in the same classic menswear pattern below.Waistlines were gently cinched, sometimes even corseted by a gentle tug at the sternum in blouses of silk georgette. One pant and sweater combination—way too elevated to be equated withsportswearbut easy to wear despite that—was mostly made in a lamé jacquard of silk and wool. This had flash, and was eye candy. But a closer look at the sweater’s sleeves, back, and ribbed hem revealed a knitted, bonded, then felted cashmere jersey of such transcendent lightness that it seemed almost criminal to be so relegated to mere context. This collection changes the direction of fashion not a jot—but it should fly straight onto the want lists for retailers whose customers will thrill to conventionally sleek, unapologetically uptown daywear whose fabrication is the non plus ultra of its form. “It's like being given a beautiful present,” said Holloway, explaining that he now feels “very responsible” for taking care of the brand. Which sounds like absolutely the right attitude.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 26, 2016
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 349
|
||
Agnona
|
spring-2016-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,016
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
This was a poignant presentation—yet not necessarily in the way thatAgnona’s producers intended. In the atrium a tree had been installed whose foliage was a mixture of desiccated leaves and dead butterflies. From its lifeless branches hung 16 looks that were two-thirds miniaturized in cashmere voile—11 from the archive and five from the new collection. What they demonstrated was how rich the history of this mill, specializing in rare yarns and founded by Francesco Ilorini Mo in 1953, truly is.Balmain,Dior,Chanel, Cardin,Saint Laurent(when it was all about Yves)—back in the day, Agnona cast all of these canonical designers’ sketches in wool. Agnona made brilliance real.Today? Well, it’s not awful. Agnona is never going to be a summer house, obviously. Still, there was a gorgeous suede wrap dress that, while completely divorced from the essence of this brand, was a thing of beauty and rightfully spotlighted center stage. Some impressive hand-painted plissé pants were worth an ogle. The brown leopard blouse was less moving, the foliage-print caftans were definitely wearable, but the safari jackets just served as piquant reminders of Saint Laurent. Agnona is owned byErmenegildo Zegna—a titanic fashion house whose main business is the sartorial outfitting of men. The arrival ofStefano Pilatiwas heralded as a new dawn for the Agnona-Zegna womenswear dream team. That plan changed when Pilati’s focus shifted to the wonderful Zegna Couture. In the meantime, Agnona has been left out in the cold—a book without an author. It deserves one.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 25, 2015
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 350
|
||
Agnona
|
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Simon Holloway was on a buying trip when he found an old photo of Halston on the roof of the Agnona mill. “They were all wearing these great taupe suits,” said the designer admiringly (wearing a camel cashmere blazer, himself).That photo was taken in the 1970s, around the same time the brand graduated from simply functioning as a supplier of knitted fabrics to producing clothing under its own line. So Holloway looked back at those early collections—a lot of brown, a lot of taupe, a lot of innovation, and a lot of hope—and thought about updating the sporty-sensual-sophisticated, American-flavored luxury freshness Halston once telegraphed, but from a European, 21st-century point of view.And, hey, it worked! With the exception (to this eye) of statement furs that were too screamingly volumized and heeled boots whose height undermined the ease of the pieces above, this collection brimmed with highly want-able wearables. The opening A-line skirt and round-shouldered trucker jacket in a cashmere denim mix signaled Holloway’s intent to broaden his parameter. A long leather piped overcoat in alpaca came served in rust and camel check, drawn from Agnona’s first collection back in the day. Particularly fine was a leather-shouldered tunic whose body was a panel of orange-on-navy weave by a factory Ermenegildo Zegna only recently acquired a majority share in. These were worn above straight-cut cashmere jeans and the cool vulcanised shearling sneakers that were this collection’s footwear highlight.Alessandro Sartori is the artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, but his purview does not extend to Agnona. It was interesting how two camel looks—one a double-layered cashmere blazer over a V-neck, the other a slightly darker (edge of khaki) purl knit, loose gilet worn with an over-long-sleeved sweater (both looks were worn with cashmere harem pants)—subtly mirrored one of this menswear fan’s highlight outfits from Sartori’s debut show in January (look 18). From Agnona to Zegna this is a house in fine creative fettle right now.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 25, 2017
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 351
|
||
Agnona
|
pre-fall-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/agnona
| 2,017
|
pre-fall
|
While delving into the archives,Agnona’s creative director, Simon Holloway, happened to find an advertorial from the ’70s shot on location in the Sonamarg valley in the Indian Kashmir region. Against a backdrop of snowcapped mountains, two blonde models swathed in sumptuous layers of the label’s albino cashmere were playing shepherdesses to a herd of Himalayan goats. “It looked like one of the extravagantVoguespreads that Diana Vreeland used to style,” crooned the designer, who was obviously thrilled by such a glamorous find.Holloway’s aesthetic has a restrained flair, which seems to suit Agnona’s core values. He infused the new collection with a plush yet contemporary feel, touched by a whiff of ’70s cool. It was translated into elongated lines, played around a layered silhouette, whose sophistication was enhanced by delicate cosmetic shades. Noble fibers were firmly at the heart of the design process; cashmere had the lion’s share, as well as precious camel hair and fluffy, feather-like alpaca. They felt so heavenly soft, you just wanted to wrap yourself in one of the many impossibly chic capes, coats, and sweaters on display, as if in a snug cocoon, and forget about the world.In keeping with the collection’s modern, urban vibe, ’70s-inspired elements were given a luxuriously utilitarian attitude, as in a lean taupe city coat in double cashmere zippered like a biker jacket. Capes were thrown with nonchalance over cropped pants or light crepe skirts, topped with ribbed cashmere sweaters for a layered, softly architectural look. For a touch of modernist bohemia, spiced up a bit with a sense of humor, a crepe de Chine dress with poet sleeves was printed with little alpacas, goats, camels, and vicuñas happily roaming as if in a Himalayan valley; they would have certainly inspired Vreeland for one of her flamboyant, witty editorials.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
February 3, 2017
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 352
|
|||
Agnona
|
spring-2017-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,017
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
It’s hard to argue with a collection full of clothes beautifully made to be beautiful that succeeds as well as this. The only possible caveats to proffer are that a) this uptown cracker of a collection from Simon Holloway will almost certainly be fiendishly expensive (I felt a sense of impending doom just to be near a double-faced, tortoise-shell-detailed jacket inAgnona's finest gauge cashmere) and b) this was not a collection that said much apart from “I am very rich and beautiful, and I am dressed accordingly.”With ODLR currently in a fallow phase, there may be an opportunity at present to seize the “ladies who lunch” market. Agnona, long false-started, might be in the mix. Holloway went straight for the exquisitely attenuated jugular by imagining this collection through a prism of Truman Capote’s swans (Slim Keith, Babe Paley, Gloria Vanderbilt, et al). Paley inspired the double-faced linen-to-satin softly tailored jackets. There was a happy interplay of softness and expression in an intarsia dress of blue lace and crisp printed cotton. The apparently white denim buttoned jacket and pants, in fact denim-effect crepe cotton topstitched and bonded with a silk lining, was formally casual in the best possible way. Marella Agnelli’s severely lush aesthetic inspired the closing column dresses in yellow, lime, and pink. This was not retro, though: The knit dresses of contrasting machined panels whose Lycra-spiked bodices ensured fit and flare were testament to that.There is not much opportunity in 2016 to casually wear a nude printed fil coupe silk floral and butterfly-print dress under a lightweight fox fur mini chubby in green. If you have it, and can have it, seize it.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 25, 2016
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 353
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Agnona
|
resort-2017
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/agnona
| 2,017
|
resort
|
Simon Holloway was appointedAgnona’s creative director just a season ago, but he’s putting his mark on the label’s look, firmly yet gently, as his personal style dictates. Unfailingly polite, the British-born Holloway seems well suited to give Agnona both flair and consistency. One of the storied Italian textile brands of impossibly high standards, Agnona’s wildly expensive knitwear has been favored by well-to-do Milanese ladies, obsessively discreet types so understated as to be snobbishly horrified of even the smallest evidence of showing off. Its signature neutral palette is so extensive that the word beige is translated into countless different variations, probably at least as many as the Inuit have for snow.“I wanted purity, simplicity, a lightweight approach,” said the designer. Yet there was nothing simple in his stylistic vision for the label. On the contrary, his articulate, sophisticated eye filtered Agnona’s legacy in a contemporary way. “I delved in the archive,” he said. “It was full of hidden gems. In the ’50s, the house’s founder worked alongside the modernist movement on textile design, innovating the fabrics’ development; it wasn’t just a mill.” Hence the slightly couture spin that infused the silhouette; it looked cultivated. In keeping with house tradition, materials had a luxurious tactile quality; double cashmeres and crepes, silks and wool cottons, and georgettes and chiffons were of impeccable standards. An off-white suede duster was punched with a guipure-inspired floral motif taken from the archive; at the touch, it felt almost impalpable.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 21, 2016
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 354
|
|||
Agnona
|
fall-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,018
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Simon Holloway was leafing through past editions of the no-longer-publishedAgnonamagazine from the late 1970s and early 1980s when he stumbled across a trove of rather lovely film noir–style editorials featuring the knit house’s garments in makeup shades: chocolate, taupe, nude, plum. These proved the starting point for a collection that enveloped the “protection” theme running through this season in a softly colored, innovatively fabricated, totally luxurious, and ever so slightly retro-futurist-flavored wrapping.Those down inserts were the satin-wrapped inner layer of double-faced cashmere coats and parkas: double protection, worn over knit dresses or slip dresses and wedge boots wreathed with rope-like coils. The prints on those silk dresses and shirts, worn above attractive cashmere-lined, high-waisted nappa trousers, were decoupage reproductions of the old shoots that first sparked Holloway’s creative direction this season.Holloway’s counterpart at Ermenegildo Zegna, Alessandro Sartori, was in the audience today and would rightly have been impressed by a fine rustic-yarn three-piece suit that updated the form with poppered fastenings at the ankle and a cool-looking track-tabard vest. Berry-dyed Donegal tweeds were enmeshed with satin and nylon down inserts in a lush-looking peacoat-bomber hybrid. At the last, Holloway ramped up the color via a dégradé alpaca/cashmere/shearling coat striped in a powerful orange, and an all-orange double-faced mohair overcoat over a long tunic in Shetland wool. Both protective and innovative, this Agnona collection would, you reckoned, not only insulate but embolden its wearer, too.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 24, 2018
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 355
|
||
Agnona
|
spring-2018-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,018
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Agnona is a lush knit specialist with a long history of producing garments that emanate unshowy poise. And, by his own admission, creative director Simon Holloway tends to start his process by focusing on neutrals.This season, Holloway was inspired to turn that around after examining the fiercely colored fabrics commissioned by couture houses from Agnona in the 1960s and visiting the Tate’s epic David Hockney exhibition. So, that hand-embroidered cashmere Fair Isle over lilac pants in Look 15 was based on Hockney’s drawing of Ossie Clark, and the bold blue, lemon, pink, and raspberry color palette was lifted, with heartfelt respect, from the artist as well.In terms of furthering Holloway’s development of Agnona as a sportswear-rooted label for the progressively inclined (but with an unabashed commitment to luxury), the color served him well. The two dresses—a shift and a kimono wrap near the beginning in blue and pink, respectively—were both made in the house “century” cashmere, digitally printed with a soft white shade to add contrast and depth. The closing three-look section of viscose knitted silk column dresses in gradient panels with loosely futuristic complementary knitwear slung above were impactful without compromising on points for poise. The tropical-print pieces—also inspired by the attire of a Hockney subject—were the perhaps the biggest jolt of irreverence, but they translated effectively onto polo shirts with knitted silk trims and matching wide-cut pants. Most of the outerwear featured slashes at the armpit to allow the owner or model to wear the garments with sleeves or without. This sister brand of Zegna rather boldly laid a claim to its brother’s tailoring turf by offering gently oversize blazers in cashmere with off-color decorative stitching and an angle that ran from bottom button to hem, which was rather reminiscent of Alessandro Sartori’s cutaway detailing during his days at Berluti. A mac and a sibling skirt both lacked Hockney’s searing color—Holloway described their tone as “cord”—but were enlivened by inner hems of something shiny and metallic, which lent both a sleek, look-twice gleam.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 23, 2017
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
| 0
| 356
|
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Agnona
|
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,019
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ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
WhenMarc Jacobs’s Spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellishit the runway, it got him fired and the critics in an almighty lather. “Grunge,” pronounced Cathy Horyn, “is anathema to fashion.” “Grunge is ghastly,” averred Suzy Menkes. Similarly, bothThe New York TimesandNew Yorkmagazine descended into fits. It turns out that collection—reissued late last year—proved to be one of the most significant in New York Fashion Week’s history. One publication that spurned the winds of prevailing opinion to embrace Jacobs’s take on youthquake wasVogue: Its December 1992 spread by Grace Coddington and Steven Meisel ranks as both the first and the finest editorial encapsulation of Jacobs’s ’90s-defining eureka moment.Today at Agnona, Simon Holloway paid full homage both to the editorial and the Jacobs-catalyzed injection of teen spirit into fashion of the time. “It was about when I left fashion school,” said the designer. “And I’ve been thinking about that landmark ‘Grunge & Glory’ shoot, and how it relates to a moment like now in terms of the continued casualization of fashion.”This collection played between Agnona-flavored riffs on the source material of grunge and Agnona-flavored interpretations of the informal nature of fashion’s contemporary manifestation. Examples of the first included Look 35—four-figure Seattle thrift—that combined a hand-beaded silk georgette dress with Agnona archive floral print under a blue-on-white buffalo plaid coat. Or Look 13’s hand-tinted alpaca coat worn under a silk buffalo-print shirt, slouchy cashmere pants, and, ahem, health sandals. Or 18’s shearling plaid-clad car coat over more slouchy pants, this time in suede.These cover versions were the launchpad for Holloway’s articulation of today’s shifting conventions with a few pieces to “elevate that and make it more tailored and hyper-luxe.” A beautiful suit in double-face gabardine with a leather lapel and that key slouchy pant with a soft break at the ankle was among the most lovely looks, yet least convincing as part of Holloway’s thesis. That’s because the real disruptor of fashion now is sports/streetwear. Looks 25 and 32 were cut in an Agnona woven textured tweed whose pattern reflected the work of Anni Albers, a mover in a far more venerable creative uprising. Philo meets Fila via Agnona: This was not a youthquake, but it was pretty great.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 23, 2019
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 357
|
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Agnona
|
pre-fall-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/agnona
| 2,019
|
pre-fall
|
Simon Holloway, Agnona’s creative director, was fascinated by the recent exhibition “Making Her Self Up” at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which showcased Frida Kahlo’s private belongings, displayed for the first time outside Mexico, where they had been locked away for 50 years after her death. They revealed the formidable strength as well as the fragility of the artist’s identity; while her crutches, body casts, and prosthetic legs exposed her impaired physical condition, the bright red lipsticks and nail polishes, perfume bottles, and powder compacts spoke of her refusal to give up the seductive power of her femininity.One black-and-white picture in the exhibition seemed to express a less theatrical side to Kahlo’s self-possessed, forceful personality: Sitting in the sun, simply dressed in a masculine tunic and boot-cut pants apparently made of denim, she wears no makeup and her dark hair is loose. “I love that picture,” Holloway said. Kahlo’s relaxed poise, coupled with the cosmetic color palette of her belongings, was a loose inspiration for the Agnona Pre-Fall collection, the lookbook of which was photographed on model Mariacarla Boscono. “She reminded me of a modern Frida Kahlo,” said Holloway. The fact that her hair, which was recently dyed a bright shade of strawberry blonde, matched the collection’s chromatic range was a kind of serendipity.Shades of plum, rosewood, amber rose, and terra-cotta had a gentle sophistication; combined with darker tones of charcoal and smoky quartz, they were well calibrated to enhance the luxurious feel of high-end fabrications, like double cashmeres, zibeline flannels and wools, and gauze mohairs. A soft purity of cut and a modern, balanced take on volumes and proportions, together with an attitude of refined ease, is what Holloway has been up to at Agnona. Here, double cashmere wrap coats were layered over loose cowl-neck sweaters and wide-leg pants or elongated napa V-necks. Tailoring leaned masculine on herringbone coats and double-breasted peacoats, and on fluid pantsuits in extra-fine light wool. Knitwear was also emphasized, as in a ribbed-knit cashmere cape sumptuously trimmed in astrakhan. The collection offered plenty of desirable outerwear, often paired with relaxed track pants that were made in a luxurious camel-hair velour jersey.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
December 13, 2018
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 358
|
|||
Agnona
|
spring-2019-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,019
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Edie Campbell in a trench, a shirt and bra made of a poplin woven in vicuña, and a loose pant, and Amber Valletta in a vicuña knit kaftan dress were at the top and tail of this lushly fabricated Agnona collection. Who even knew poplin in vicuña could exist? Simon Holloway riffed loosely on the work and attire of Joan Jonas after being inspired by the exhibition dedicated to her at Tate Modern in London. The silver parka, the sequin relief skirt and mismatched shirt, and the dress in parrot-print silk were all literal nods to the performance artist’s personal style. More broadly, Holloway’s this-season recipe for full-volume but still structured, often ingeniously layered looks (many of whose source code lay in menswear tailoring) produced some deeply chic and grown-up pieces of womenswear.The red—okay, cinnabar—look combining a fine-knit sweater with an extended hem at front and back over a machine-pleated silk skirt that was layered front and back with an additional panel of slightly broader-pleat crepe de Chine was a handful to describe but a delight to watch: really lovely. Holloway sometimes repeated his shapes—the silk and wool voile trench in look 34 and the in-house “Century” cashmere the look after, for instance—and played with a delicate mismatch of color. There was a pleasing contrast between the obvious softness of his minimally profiled cashmere outerwear and the riveted hardware applied sparsely to it. The shoes, both cashmere-upper, molded-sole sneaker boots and heeled leather boots, were beauties. Not many houses are providing properly womanly womenswear in Milan this season: Agnona is one of the exceptions.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 22, 2018
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
| 0
| 359
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Agnona
|
resort-2019
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/agnona
| 2,019
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resort
|
Simon Holloway is not keen on delving into elaborate references for Agnona’s collections; he doesn’t need to. He seems to have a natural understanding of the Italian label’s codes, which are as deceptively simple as they’re sophisticated. He has a real woman in mind, not abstract archetypes: “Our collections are ageless; our customers are young women in their 30s, as well as ladies in their 70s,” he said. Inclusivity? The box has already been ticked.During his tenure at the label, which started in 2016, Holloway has focused on polishing the brand perception, bringing a subtle, consistent modernity to classic wardrobe staples, updating proportions and volumes while keeping a sophisticated, understated style. He has even further elevated the already luxurious quality of the fabrications, taking full advantage from the rather extraordinary combination of innovation and craftsmanship that Italian manufacturers can provide. His approach was well displayed in the Resort collection, where apparently uncomplicated, quiet materials were in fact anything but.A sporty washed-denim jacket-coat, clean-cut and elongated, with a reserved, unassuming charm, at closer inspection revealed itself as being made in the heavenliest double cashmere and lined with a detachable layer of shaved shearling so thin it felt lighter than any bird’s plumage. Same thing for a pair of pants, which looked like usual chinos but which were actually made in the finest, most expensive feathery wool poplin.That quite sensational, illusionistic cashmere denim fabric took a long time to be perfected; it was displayed in many iterations throughout the collection, rendered in slightly ‘90s-inspired, minimal silhouettes, a recurring trend this season. An elongated shirtdress looked casually chic, while a sporty parka had a relaxed, easy attitude. A gently oversize bomber jacket was worn with an ankle-grazing A-line skirt, which looked pretty cool.Elsewhere in the collection, a feel of fluidity and ease was highlighted in sweater dresses, caftans, and pleated tunics in precious lightweight fibers: wool cady, nylon silk, extra-fine merino, cotton voile. A delicate watercolor print on pleated skirts and matching blouses added a touch of graceful finesse.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 7, 2018
|
Simon Holloway
|
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Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 360
|
|||
Agnona
|
fall-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,020
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Blonde hair scraped back and forward-facing stare serene: The resemblance between model Maggie Maurer and this Agnona collection’s co-inspiration, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, was a little spooky this afternoon. Simon Holloway said he had been moved to base his lineup around Bessette-Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr. after seeing a piece featuring the gone-too-soon Camelot couple by artist Jordan Wolfson. Said Holloway, “What I admire is that she was very polished but not a typical socialite lady. Her style was very cutting edge. The rigor of her taste level, even when she was dressed casually, was very, very high.” That Bessette-Kennedy’s day job was in PR for Calvin Klein at the height of his powers surely contributed to this. Here, Holloway used his own rigorous eye to channel that high watermark of New York’s reign as the superpower of style with all the material assets of this Italian fashion superpower (Agnona is part of Zegna) at his disposal.The opening camel coat, for instance, was made of real camel hair and given extra texture thanks to a shearling midsection and suede pockets. The suede-edged and pocket-flapped work shirt in the second look was cut in camel-hair flannel over an 18-gauge (so very, very light) camel-hair turtleneck. The pants and pencil skirt looked like denim but were much finer wool twill dyed indigo.A strapless leather dress in dark blue featured a knitted back section, before a very camel Klein asymmetric knit skirt and top prefaced the big innovation of this Agnona season: the first menswear it has presented in 20 years. This Kennedy-shaped look was a dark wool cashmere jersey suit, so therefore unstructured, and Holloway was keen to emphasize that tailoring was not his chosen direction—this makes sense considering that Zegna’s tailoring territory is already pretty expansive. Instead the role of the masculine here was to act as a sympathetic foil to the feminine, which in this context meant luxurified Ivy League dressing right down to the loafers.The men’s camel coats, an amazing dark checked quilted overshirt, and Aran knits were as swoony as Kennedy Jr. himself, but carefully fashioned to not steal the womenswear’s thunder. This clapped most loudly in a long knit—yes, knit—overcoat in a monochrome simplified Prince of Wales: an extraordinary piece. Also worth noting was that much of the cashmere here was recycled. A “contemporary, timeless modernity” is how Holloway described his ambition for Agnona’s aesthetic. The problem with that is modernity can never be fixed, and all styles of dress must eventually pass. What this flashback today showed, though, is that the spirit of dress Bessette-Kennedy once epitomized is still highly compelling 20 years into a century she never got to see.
|
Luke Leitch
|
February 22, 2020
|
Simon Holloway
|
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|
Simon Holloway
|
Simon Holloway
| 0
| 361
|
||
Agnona
|
spring-2020-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/agnona
| 2,020
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
A big part of what makes Agnona so very special is its fabrication, the details of which can be challenging to glean when the clothes are whooshing past at speed. Happily, the label’s designer, Simon Holloway, is on hand and willing to dig deep into the granular data.Take the trenchcoat in Look 13: “That’s in a silk dupioni woven on an antique narrow loom. There are only four of them left, and when a part breaks down, we have to remake it from scratch.” Or the check tailored looks that ran through the midsection of the show: “These are all in patterns taken from the Agnona archive and made in double-face Century cashmere.” As for the attractive double-breasted, short-sleeve, shirting-reminiscent wrap dress of Look 34: “It’s a yarn-dyed crepe de Chine in a candy stripe. And the belt is napa wrapped around cork.”These were a few of the ingredients in a collection that saw Holloway zero in on Milan’s golden age intersection of fashion and industrial design, the late ’70s to early ’80s. He said: “It was before everyone became obsessed with shoes and handbags, and fashion was all about daywear, which the Italians did better than anyone else.” His starting point had been a grainy, wide-angle photo of baggy pants–wearing Milanese clustering outside the first Memphis Group exhibition in 1981. This was the source of the pastel color story in the last third or so of a show that followed a first two-thirds as neutral as Switzerland. The attention to period silhouette here was precise in its “important” shouldered and low-skirted jackets, but these were also shapes you could imagine working in the world today. Although doubtless mind-meltingly expensive, there was a satisfying sense of roughness in the slubbiness of its silks and the texture of its piqué that contrasted pleasingly with the impeccable leather, voile, and cashmere. If you are both rich enough to buy Agnona and discerning enough to buy Agnona, then game over—you win.
|
Luke Leitch
|
September 22, 2019
|
Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
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Agnona
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resort-2020
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https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/agnona
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resort
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Need a crash course in the finest, most inconspicuously luxurious fabrics on the market? A visit to the Agnona showroom can provide it. And if you could secure Simon Holloway’s fluent, meticulous expertise to guide you through it, even the trickiest exam could be passed with top grades.A fastidious attention to quality has always been embedded in the label’s DNA. For Resort, the variety of blends where silk, cashmere, and wool were variously combined to achieve an almost preternatural featheriness was mind-boggling. When you have at your disposal fabrics of such exquisiteness, you don’t need style pyrotechnics: Holloway’s play on shapes is subtle. Pure lines are substantiated by the fabrics’ discreet richness. It’s high-brow minimalism.The designer always filters references through a contemporary lens; the Resort collection hinted lightly to an elegant ’80s aesthetic, as in Paul Schrader’s movieAmerican Gigolo: “It recalls that clean American sensuality, but wardrobed in an Italian way,” said Holloway. “There was something about the relaxed tailoring mood of that time that I’m just feeling for at the moment, that polished American good taste but with that European luxury tailoring.”Soft tailoring imbued with a light sporty flair was the collection’s strong point, highlighted by subtly mismatched textures and a neutral color palette. A checkered linen silk trench coat, thrown over an elongated chemisier dress with matching slouchy trousers in wool silk toile, was emblematic of the collection’s spirit, as was a loose-fit, deconstructed and unlined double-breasted blazer in fresco gabardine in a delicate linden color. “It’s a little David Bowie moment,” mused the designer, explaining that he took cue from a famous picture of the artist wearing a bright apple-green suit, toned down in the Agnona way.Elsewhere, the chic, relaxed approach was reiterated in buttonless kimono-cut cabans in light double-faced silk-linen-cashmere blends, worn with ’70s-inspired midi skirts in buttery-soft nappa or with sporty slouchy pants. Dresses came mostly as fluid, elongated tunics worn over matching trousers, while an archival illustration provided the graphic patchwork-printed motifs for a feminine chemisier dress. Usually, the wordpatchworkevokes a disorderly feel: It wasn’t the case here. As with the rest of the collection, it was serene and poised. To cut through the fashion noise, you don’t need to scream to be heard.
|
Tiziana Cardini
|
June 10, 2019
|
Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
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Simon Holloway
| 0
| 363
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Akris
|
fall-2004-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2004-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,004
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Every season has one or two of those shows where a well-respected but not terribly exciting line suddenly whips off its glasses, undoes a few buttons, and shakes out its topknot, leaving jaded fashion-world regulars stuttering over their words and groping for notebooks. This time, that delightful transformation happened at the venerable, 60-year-old Swiss company Akris. There's always been an upper-echelon customer for its painstakingly perfect suits and coats, but over the past few years, with Albert Kriemler (son of founder Max Kriemler) at the helm, Akris has been quietly freshening and lightening its designs, and fall's show proved the transformation complete.As much as this season's frill and flourish are fun to look at, ultimately women want clothes that can survive a grab-and-go lifestyle while still performing the important role of personal enhancement. Enter Akris' nip-waist jackets, trim trousers, pencil skirts, and snappy coats cut from cashmere, tweed, suede, and lamb, worn with luxe cashmere sweaters or silky tunics. Those kinds of basics can easily turn boring, but Kriemler has a gift for proportion and cut, and he managed to balance all the elements—rough with polish, bulky with airy—without getting bogged down in tradition. The silky dresses and gowns that closed the show emitted just the right amount of subtle sex appeal. And, while his fluttery smocked chiffon tops may have Swiss milkmaid in their genealogy, their flirty confidence was purely modern-day.
|
Janet Ozzard
|
March 8, 2004
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 364
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||
Akris
|
fall-2005-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,005
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Since the Swiss label Akris, designed by Albert Kriemler, entered the Paris scene, it has quietly garnered an impressive reputation for stealthily luxurious clothes that also happen to sell like crazy. So what's the secret? A conundrum that tangentially reveals a lot about our times, as it happens. For the buzz (or, more accurately, the high-frequency bat squeak) about Akris lies in the paradox that it's off the radar: nonfashion fashion. At a time when seeking out label-free anonymity in clothes is beginning to seem, contradictorily, fashionable, the collection is a need-to-know resource.For fall, Akris certainly is a place for women who can't find a nifty pantsuit to look. (And how many millions are we?) Cut with a tight, short double-breasted jacket and a slimly flared trouser in pistachio cotton-cashmere corduroy, it's an outfit guaranteed to send girlfriends into fits of "where did you get that?" distraction. Same with the velvet versions in subtle slate and duck blues.And while we're at it, there are beautifully unidentifiable coats to check out here. Take one in gray, with a raised waist, a subtle flare, and a yoke in back. Or another cut into a narrow collarless early-sixties couture shape, which makes a nice nod to the season without screeching "mod." Or yet again, a slim man's overcoat that transcends trend.These are pieces the nonfashion-fashion hunter is going to feel mighty pleased to have bagged—now, and next year, too. As for the rest, the quietly textured wrapped knits and the separates, like jersey fit-and-flare skirts, are minted for another, more conservative market. But the fact that Akris can attract both kinds of women (all of whom are fleeing from excess, yet willing to invest) explains the health of the company's bottom line.
|
Sarah Mower
|
March 3, 2005
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 365
|
||
Akris
|
spring-2005-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,005
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Unlike many labels, the Swiss house of Akris doesn't use ear-splitting music or crazy styling to jazz up its understated urban staples. This season did, though, see a small yet significant change: Instead of showing at its chic Paris HQ, the house chose the Carrousel du Louvre, the location favored by the likes of Chanel and Valentino. Quiet and refined or not, designer Albert Kriemler just may be trying to edge Akris into the spotlight.Either way, Kriemler's spring collection was as clean and fresh as an alpine morning. He referenced the innocence and purity of his roots via billowing, snow-white linen peasant blouses and flared cotton skirts. But Switzerland is also home to some really hefty bank accounts, so the Akris woman is well versed in the language of international moneyed chic: Witness a white cotton double-faced trenchcoat with tulle edges over supernarrow trousers, or a white linen bustier with a full organdy skirt etched in shell-like swirls of cotton. From there on in, the collection embraced some of the season's key colors (sage green, sea blue, sweet pink) and gotta-have-'em pieces (cuffed shorts, little jackets, billowing skirts).Kriemler closed with lightweight tulle evening dresses in shades of taupe and beige; while some were worn with heels, it was the few that came out with flat thong sandals that looked most in step with spring 2005.
|
Mark Holgate
|
October 7, 2004
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 366
|
||
Akris
|
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,006
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Albert Kriemler's Akris collections speak in hushed tones. That's what makes his clothes so popular with ladies of decorous taste yet lavish means, but it doesn't always make for good runway. To compare him to the showman Karl Lagerfeld—whose Chanel productions directly precede those of Akris—isn't fair, of course, but Kriemler doesn¿t help his cause with some of his staging choices. Why not select music that's a little more upbeat? And while we're on the subject of change, perhaps he should think about swapping the catacombs of the Carrousel du Louvre for a new venue—someplace spare and fuss-free like his clothes.Like many other designers this season, Kriemler found inspiration in the sculpted silhouettes of Cristobal Balenciaga. Coats in black mattelassé and ultra-luxe heather-gray vicuña had a cocoon-like shape. Whether or not Akris customers will embrace this backward-looking, forward-moving new direction remains to be seen. But Kriemler played it safer with such items as slouchy cashmere knits and pants cut two ways: slim and tapered or fuller with flap pockets. For evening, the designer rather puzzlingly eliminated structure, draping silk satin or crepe in front and back and occasionally leaving the sides of the torso uncovered. Unlike other elements of the collection, these won't make the leap to retail without some serious rethinking back at the studio.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 2, 2006
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 367
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||
Akris
|
spring-2006-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2006-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,006
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The precision with which Albert Kriemler cuts his clothes—to say nothing of the efficiency of his presentation—came as a welcome tonic amid spring's endless frills (the ruffles! the bows! the lace!) and elaborate setups. Backstage, Kriemler described the starting point of his collection as a nude plissé blouse worn by Anjelica Huston in a 1973 Richard Avedon portrait. "It was its simplicity and lightness," he said, "that moved me."Kriemler did a deft job of charting the season's trends, too, starting with those pleats and continuing with subtle colors including aubergine, mushroom, and smoke. These came together beautifully in a nude (the noncolor of the season), accordion-folded frock with a deep V-back. Embellishments included tulle leaves hand-stitched onto organza; perforated-leather swing coats looked lighter than air; and crocheted cardigans had enough heft to stand in for a blazer.But Akris is really all about those dependably chic pantsuits. To persuade customers who already have a closetful of his short jackets, and perhaps convince new (younger?) ones, Kriemler lengthened his spring styles to the hips, cinched them with a belt, and raised armholes for a look he described as "rock star—but Akris rock star."
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 6, 2005
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 368
|
||
Akris
|
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,007
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Herzog & de Meuron, the visionary Swiss architects, were on Albert Kriemler's mind this season. The silvery high-tech "skin" of the Walker Art Center was interpreted as a georgette-covered metallic shrug, and San Francisco's new de Young could be seen in the sequins scattered over a black slip dress. Some of the more obvious building motifs, like the severe suede wedges and the 3-D cubes superimposed on large-gauge knits, looked clunky rather than light. But the theme was generally a good match for this designer's spare, precise sensibility and his strength as a tailor.Kriemler delivered in the suit department, showing sharp, lean cuts in charcoal gray, sometimes with a minimalist ring of ruffles decorating the hem of a putty vest. Jackets were cinched with a polished stainless-steel belt for a slightly futuristic touch. And the interesting surfaces on the coats turned them into the highlight of the show. Crushed aluminum made a cocoon shape modern, while leather made a cropped anorak deluxe. Parkas were taken apart and rebuilt as evening toppers, a trick clever enough to even impress Jacques and Pierre back in Basel.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 27, 2007
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 369
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||
Akris
|
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2007-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,007
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ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
In a switch from the typical seating arrangements, buyers rather than editors sat at the head of Akris' runway, with the best views in the house. It was a fitting development, since Albert Kriemler's take on the week's black-and-nude illusion dressing trend was lessStrictly Ballroomthan strictly chic. Akris has become a quiet retail powerhouse on the strength of this designer's subtle and approachable interpretations of runway developments. In addition to those organza dresses with tulle insets or straps so sheer they almost performed disappearing acts, he also did volume. But that didn't mean trapezes or tent dresses. Those aren't his style, nor his clients'. A subtle bustle gave the back of plunge-front dresses in platinum shot silk, striped voile, or coated wool a youthful swing. Likewise, blouson tops were reined in by bands at the upper arm and waist. The season's billowy cuffed shorts appeared here, too, although with the front pocket linings dipping visibly below their hems, they didn't seem as comfortable a fit with the brand's sophisticated sensibilities.In a city where the grand gesture rules, this label risks being overlooked. That's why Kriemler and co. invited show-goers to Akris' St. Gallen, Switzerland, headquarters for a quick tour of the brand's archives at a special exhibition last weekend. By all accounts, the Alpine town has an illustrious past as a center for textiles. But today Kriemler looked straight ahead with the show's modern, geometric embroideries.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 3, 2006
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 370
|
||
Akris
|
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2008-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,008
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Albert Kriemler smartly avoided the decorative motifs that distracted from his impeccable tailoring last season. There was a minimalist, almost ascetic appeal to double-faced cashmere suits—the jackets long with high, stand-up collars and narrowed waists, and the trousers with graceful, sleek lines. Anything superfluous was eliminated.His coats were also elongated, several grazing the ankle and accessorized with floor-scraping knit or fur scarves. For a more casual take on the pared-down, cleaned-up look, there were streamlined suede tunics over second-skin turtlenecks and slim pants, as well as a horizontally ribbed dolman-sleeved sweater dress worn belted—like everything else—to accentuate the waist.The collection wasn't completely free of decoration. Graduated rectangles on silk tulle coat-dresses were more subtle than the mille-feuille layers of organza ribbon at another dress's hem (or, worse, bodice). The strongest evening pieces took their cues from the streamlined daywear: a floor-length cashmere dress with envelope pockets and double-inset pleats, or even simpler, a matte-jersey knife-pleated column with a double skirt in back. All in all, much improved.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
February 26, 2008
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 371
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2008
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2008/akris
| 2,008
|
pre-fall
|
Albert Kriemler's pre-fall palette was a muted one of graphite, taupe, and storm blue, inspired by photographs of Icelandic landscapes. Spring's line-play continued, but now in monochrome on a textured sweater, say, or on a topper that featured fur worked in geometric stripes. Fuller pants were shown with slightly militaristic jackets, some made of double-faced cashmere. Two knit dresses, in contrast, were all about curves.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
January 28, 2008
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 372
|
|||
Akris
|
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,008
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Albert Kriemler finds himself in a tricky position: As the creative force behind Akris, he dresses seriously chic women—Diane Sawyer, for one—in seriously chic clothes that are fashionable without being fashion-y. No small accomplishment. But he wants to be taken seriously as a designer, too, which means setting trends, not simply setting his focus on the timelessness of a well-cut suit.He made a stab at it for Spring, using sailing as a leitmotif. The wooden runway, for starters, was made to resemble a high-tech yacht, and within this setting the designer loosely interpreted the sailor suit as a vertically striped sleeveless blouse worn with high-waist full-legged pants. Elsewhere, the maritime concept was given a full-on spin in tailored jackets with the squared-off back flaps of naval uniforms, and a two-piece dress stitched from strips of leather to resemble decking.Unfortunately, the conceit often came across as contrived. A poppy-colored organza dress adorned with laser-cut square pennants was like a red flag: Danger! Kriemler would do better for himself and his customers by sticking to the sophistication for which Akris is known.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 2, 2007
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 373
|
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Akris
|
resort-2008
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2008/akris
| 2,008
|
resort
|
Trends evolve rather than ricochet back and forth at Akris. For Resort, Albert Kriemler explored some of the ideas from his Fall show—such as coats with a sheer fabric layered over a solid—in warm-weather materials. Delicate ladder work added subtle decoration to cream-colored shift dresses. New for the season were high-waisted, wide-legged sailor pants made of silk/linen denim. Will they continue the journey into Kriemler's upcoming spring collection? Stay tuned.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
July 9, 2007
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 374
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,009
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Akris' profile is on the upswing lately, thanks to Angelina Jolie, who wore a minimal white suit from the Swiss label during the press junket forThe Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Designer Albert Kriemler, an avowed architecture buff, found inspiration for Fall in a pavilion in China's Jinhua Architecture Park designed by Mexico's Tatiana Bilbao. The result was a trapezoidal leitmotif that materialized as the geometric embroidery on the tulle sleeves of a fitted wool dress, on the geometric quilting of a bomber jacket, and on a floor-length number with a front constructed of interconnected trapezoids (one editor cracked that it looked like tile swatches).If there was a heavy-handedness to such pieces, there were others that gave glimpses of the sort of understatement that makes the likes of Jolie a fan. Take a deep bordeaux long-line vest in double wool crepe with a slightly padded shoulder and matching pants; a black-purple cashmere leather-belted coat; or a crackly glazed-wool tailored top worn with a matching skirt. Chic and wearable, they proved again that Kriemler is at his best when he thinks simple.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 7, 2009
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 375
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2009/akris
| 2,009
|
pre-fall
|
After a stellar 2008 that included a million-dollar trunk show at Bergdorf Goodman, 2009 is off to a good start for Akris: Angelina Jolie wore a suit from the Swiss label to aBenjamin Buttonpremiere this week. Not one to let things go to his head, designer Albert Kriemler kept things down-to-earth with a pre-fall lineup of great-looking items like a slim ski pant or sporty jackets in rain-resistant silk lined with cashmere. The collection's sheared mink coats were a clever marriage of subtlety and luxury.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
January 20, 2009
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 376
|
|||
Akris
|
spring-2009-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2009-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,009
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
There's a rumor going around Paris that Akris is dressing the Republican vice presidential candidate Sarah Palin, but we didn't see much that was campaign trail-friendly on the runway today.The brand is known for its understated, chic tailoring and exquisite, expensive fabrics. Designer Albert Kriemler likes to show off the know-how of the company's textile mills in St. Gallen, Switzerland. So, tapping into the current see-through trend, he spliced the label's superclean jackets with sheer panels, suspended step-pleated georgette from illusion necklines, and layered pencil skirts over net slips. The overall effect, thanks in part to an icy gray, light blue, nude, and white palette, was light and unfussy. (Still, however refined it was, when politicians talk about "transparency," this isn't usually what they mean.)What really stood out were Kriemler's flower-print silk georgette dresses. If not a first at Akris, they were truly an unusual sight. To make them, he had the famous mill pixelate photographs of gardens; the impressionistic results called to mind Monet at Giverny. Again, not exactly Sarah Palin's kind of thing, but we'll be paying extra-special attention at Thursday night's big debate.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 30, 2008
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 377
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2009
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/akris
| 2,009
|
resort
|
In May, Albert Kriemler's pre-fall collection for Akris briefly quieted retail doomsayers when it netted a cool million dollars at a Bergdorf Goodman trunk show. From the looks of Resort, the cash registers are set to keep cha-ching-ing. In addition to the house's classic full trousers, there was a new scrunchy, carrot-silhouetted pant. Kriemler took a lighter than ever touch in his perennial play with transparency, seen on sleeveless tops worn under tailored jackets, twenties-style pleated dresses with delicate meshlike panels, and a deep-sea-colored number with Deco-inflected insets that was a sheer delight.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 22, 2008
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 378
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,010
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Picking up where his smart pre-collection left off, Albert Kriemler's Fall lineup was focused on languid, seventies-ish tailoring and outerwear with a sportif sensibility. The lean, spare silhouette of his suits—elongated jacket, high-waisted flared trousers—provided an opportunity to showcase the fine fabrics that Akris' St. Gallen mills specialize in: Prince of Wales checks, houndstooths, tweeds, and plaids, all in the supplest cashmere. And it doesn't get any more luxe than Kriemler's long-sleeved blouse in a taupey-gray sheared astrakhan. As subtle as that fur and those menswear cashmeres were, his leathers were vibrant: a trim, to-the-body sleeveless dress in cassis, a fitted double-breasted coat in plum. As for the sportier fare, you're never going to see a straight-up down parka here. Kriemler's came in camel hair with drawstrings on the sleeves and across the torso and back to adjust the fit.Ornamentation only entered the picture for evening, but it remained understated: Trapezoidal black crystals adorned the sheer shoulders of a black double-face long dress; the bodice of a strapless cocktail number was stitched with smooth feathers.If Kriemler got carried away, it was with his bags—not with the totes themselves, which are as finely made as they were when they debuted last season, but in the sheer number of them on the runway. In the end, though, they didn't detract from this well-considered, elegant collection.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 6, 2010
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 379
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2010/akris
| 2,010
|
pre-fall
|
Removing the pressure of a runway show can free up a designer to do his best work. That's what's happened to Albert Kriemler at Akris for pre-fall. Focusing on traditional yet timely shapes—like the trench, shrunken double-breasted jackets and high-waisted, full-legged trousers, and capes—he let the luxe fabrics that the Swiss label is famous for do all the talking. And speak to his patrician-class customers these materials will: the double-face cashmeres, the bonded leathers, the buttery suedes. His black wool tweed pantsuit qualifies as one of the sharpest of the season, but it wasn't all boardroom material. Akris has its sporty side, too; one smart highlight among the off-hours looks was a knit poncho (with sleeves, so it stays put) teamed with matchstick-thin pants.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 17, 2010
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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| 380
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Akris
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spring-2010-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,010
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ready-to-wear
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spring
|
Albert Kriemler has designed his first-ever handbag collection for Akris, and his Spring clothes served as a well-considered minimalist canvas upon which to launch it. A few coats and dresses were made from leather that was scissored into narrow trapezoids, then re-glued for a geometric effect. But for the most part, Kriemler dialed down the sometimes overwrought fabric treatments from Fall and got back to the spare, clean lines that the Swiss company has been known for.For day, that meant layered fine-gauge silk sweaters, sleekly tailored coat-dresses, and pantsuits with cropped jackets, elongated tees, and tapered knit pants. A sporty element came through via a gray laminated parka inset with athletic mesh and zip-front, blouson-back dresses. For evening, Kriemler was thinking streamlined. Long gray gowns draped gracefully from asymmetric shoulders, and a tall column of jersey came inset with inverted triangles of tulle at the neckline, front and back.As for the bags? It's a measure of the company's commitment that Akris bought a horsehair factory before launching its accessories. Logo-less save for the trapezoidal zipper pulls, the results stand apart from the hardware-heavy styles currently popular. Showing large bags can turn your runway into merch fest, but Kriemler avoided that fate by producing a range as subtle as his clothes.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 3, 2009
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
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Albert Kriemler
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| 381
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Akris
|
resort-2010
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/akris
| 2,010
|
resort
|
Akris is a name on everybody's lips these days because these are clothes that seem especially right for the times. Beautifully made and trend-resistant, they're the very definition of investment dressing. Albert Kriemler wanted his Resort collection to be a feel-good one—literally. To that end he focused on fabric development, creating featherweight jersey for smocked dresses that softly caress the body. A neat chiffon bodysuit—worn with a tailored coat and jeans—had a wafting neckline. Giving shape to these light fabrics were tucked sleeves that resembled lobster tails—a good thing, it turned out, when worked into jackets and a galaxy-print dress.
|
Laird Borrelli-Persson
|
June 25, 2009
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 382
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Akris
|
fall-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
The Salle Wagram, a dance hall dating to 1865, suggested we were in for a different kind of Akris show than we're used to. And indeed the program notes said that designer Albert Kriemler took the Vienna Secession movement as muse for Fall. But he hardly went as bohemian or Art Nouveau as all that suggests. Kriemler is a committed minimalist: He has a light touch.Here's an example: fur. It was there, but if it wasn't exactly flying the way it has been on so many other runways this season, that's because it was used so discreetly. A vicuna bolero worn over a cashmere coat was shorn thinly enough that it almost looked like velvet. Everything had that pared back yet still luxe feeling, from a suede and wool second-skin sweater worn with skinny suede pants to a wool jersey sleeveless dress whose only adornment was a zipper detail front to back on one shoulder. Even paillettes looked classy here, densely embroidering the hems of a shift and a dress.Kriemler used a photo print of architect and Vienna Secession founder Joseph Maria Olbrich's Wedding Tower for an otherwise understated sheath and a floor-length cape, both in double-face wool. It's not a sure thing that the Akris woman will want to wear something quite so overt, relatively speaking. As for something that will be on her playlist, that's easy: the new additions to the house's burgeoning bag line, horsehair iPad cases.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 5, 2011
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 383
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2011/akris
| 2,011
|
pre-fall
|
Albert Kriemler isn't the kind of designer who looks for inspiration in movies, but something about the 1968 filmTwo for the Road, in which Audrey Hepburn ditches her Givenchy for blue jeans, really resonated with him. While you won't find denim in his pre-fall collection forAkris, there's a newfound casualness to, say, a cashmere rugby stripe dress or the second-skin knits with contrast tipping at the shoulders.That said, Kriemler hasn't neglected the needs of his power women clients. He cut a sharp pantsuit in a bold, no-going-unnoticed plaid, and whipped up a great-looking sleeveless shift with a supple leather bodice and a two-for-one cashmere skirt. Unbutton the two buttons at the waist, and in place of the full skirt there's a narrow pencil. The most powerful power woman of the moment (Michelle Obama, duh) should add it to the top of her shopping list.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
January 23, 2011
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 384
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|||
Akris
|
spring-2011-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,011
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
The minimalism trend has been good for Akris' Albert Kriemler. Everyone's shopping for a pantsuit lately, and smart tailoring is in his family company's DNA. The upshot: More than a few women who might've previously written off the Swiss brand as strictly for uptown types have been turned on by the quality of its fabrics and the sharpness of its cuts. Other Paris collections are moving away from the spare and the streamlined this week, but not Akris.The starting point was the classic button-down shirt. (Funnily enough, there was a similar inspiration at an otherwise very different brand, Viktor & Rolf, a day earlier.) Kriemler opened with a simple, but not boring, asymmetrical shirtdress in crisp white cotton, and riffed on the idea in denim and (surprise!) a lush floral-print organza.Those bold blooms were a bit too much on a vest and pants, but that was the show's one big misstep. You could picture a lot of the rest stepping off the runway and into real life, and not just the straightforward sea blue pantsuit or the khaki cardigan jacket and matching pants, but also the more adventurous pieces. A short jumpsuit with a bateau neck looked like Kriemler's play for the under-35 set, and he did his own discreet take on Spring's cutout trend, via a V-neck silk shift dress that unzipped at the torso to reveal a triangle of silk mesh. Both of them worked. And both were signs that Daphne Guinness (the brand's ad campaign star and ardent fan) won't be the only in-crowder searching out Akris next season.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 2, 2010
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 385
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2011
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/akris
| 2,011
|
resort
|
Albert Kriemler took his cues for Resort from Jean-Luc Godard's Capri-set filmLe Mépris. It made for an unusually unrestrained Akris outing, complete with a pair of vivid photo prints—one of the island's sun-drenched Marina Grande and another of a packed outdoor café—which he used for shirtdresses, horsehair tote bags, and, yes, capri pants. The prints informed a color palette lush with coral, aloe green, and a gorgeous azure blue, and the easy, relaxed atmosphere of the vacation spot itself inspired some of the collection's most winning silhouettes: a breezy A-line camel silk polo dress, a boxy cotton shell tucked into a slim skirt with an asymmetric button closure, and a three-piece bermuda shorts suit. Yes, there were more buttoned-up options hanging on the racks, but the Akris customer likely has plenty of those in her closet already.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 20, 2010
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 386
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,012
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Franz Kline'sPainting No. 7was Albert Kriemler's starting point for Akris this season. The black slashes on the action painter's famous canvas inspired not only the geometric grid print of the opening pantsuit but also the graphic color-blocking and patchworking of different fabrics and textures that informed much of collection. Kline is also something of a totem for Kriemler for the way his work embodied a dynamism and freedom of movement.Among the collection's highlights were a jacket pieced together from parallelograms of leather, cashmere, and ponyhair; a color-blocked cape; and a patchworked side-zip jacket teamed with fitted, tapering pants. All of these were in varying degrees of black, but Kriemler also embraced color. His clients will get a lot of wear out of double-face cashmere coats in purple and a fiery orange.At times, Kriemler stumbled. Simplicity isn't effortless. The fit of the low-waisted, pleated trousers could've been better, and the allover paillette embroidery on evening pieces was distractingly sheer; it would've looked more elegant worn with slips. But he ended on an up note: A series of dresses that were belted in front and hung loose from the shoulders in back captured the ease of movement he was talking about.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 3, 2012
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 387
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Akris
|
pre-fall-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/akris
| 2,012
|
pre-fall
|
The sportiness of race cars inspired Akris' Albert Kriemler to go shorter, sleeker, sheerer, and sunnier for Spring, but he's relaxed into his more restrained Swiss groove for his latest pre-collection. That sections of his new offering were divided into color-coded blocks called Steam, Wheat, and Steel should give you some idea. He was still thinking of travel, but of a less heart-in-your-mouth variety: The season's inspiration came courtesy of the Trans-Siberian Railway and its stately journey, in days gone by, between Moscow and the Far East. (To set the appropriate mood, he shot the lookbook in Le Train Bleu, the nineteenth-century train car-turned-restaurant at the top of Bloomingdale's.) The Trans-Siberian itself, and the views from it, provided the photo print that has become a house signature, here emblazoned on dresses, tops, and soft cashmere coats. Overall, fluid tailoring and smart outerwear (from almost-casual to full-on luxe in natural mink) defined this quietly elegant collection. The Akris woman travels business class, no doubt, but there's more than enough here to exercise her imagination.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 29, 2012
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 388
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|||
Akris
|
spring-2012-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,012
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Like Miuccia Prada, Akris' Albert Kriemler got turned on by cars this season. Kriemler specifically referenced John Frankenheimer's 1966 filmGrand Prix, set in Monaco and other pit stops from motor racing's golden age. Still, the two collections were as night and day as you'd expect; where Prada was cheeky, Akris was sleek.Kriemler devoted a large part of the collection to the photoprints that have become a house signature. A shot of the Hotel de l'Hermitage on racing day and another of spectators gathered on top of a large rectangular viewing structure were bold. More clever, if not necessarily more subtle, were the tiny speedometer print and a graphic horizontal stripe made from manipulating the image of a car.Speed was the organizing metaphor here: Shifts were aerodynamic and A-line, while jackets and pants with racing stripes looked inspired by uniforms. Sport has been a persistent trend this season, and this collection puts Kriemler and co. in the center of it.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
October 1, 2011
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 389
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2012
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/akris
| 2,012
|
resort
|
Disco, at Akris? Albert Kriemler looked to Studio 54 for Resort, a well-trod reference point if ever there was one, and somewhat unlikely for a brand that prides itself on its elegance and refinement. If a black-and-white photo print of the jam-packed club erred on the literal side, it came across surprisingly subtly on a sleeveless sheath—chalk that up to the designer's sure hand. Kriemler's cutting and draping skills were also in evidence on a sleek one-shoulder jersey gown of the sort Bianca Jagger once rocked; it was a head turner in vivid azure blue.Otherwise the seventies vibe was just that, a suggestion rather than a full-on commitment. A linen pantsuit was full-legged and boxy silk tops slouched off shoulders. As for another pantsuit in a striking black and silver jacquard, it pointed to the modern accomplishments of Akris' St. Gallen, Switzerland, fabric mills. Chance are good that it'll be the collection's big hit.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 20, 2011
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 390
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,013
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Albert Kriemler lost his mother, Ute, last December. His show today, accompanied by a small orchestra playing her favorite composer, Bach, was a tribute to her, he explained backstage. Although it was almost all black, and inspired by her personal wardrobe of turtleneck gowns, blouse-and-pant combos, and clean tailoring, his new Akris collection wasn't necessarily somber.Though in demeanor still mournful, Kriemler found interesting ways of letting in the light. Starting with the house's signature photoprints: This season, he used a dark photograph of a street, the streetlamps casting horizontal white lines across the planes of what he called his new three-piece suit—a double-face cocoon coat worn over a double-breasted jacket and a tunic dress. A nubby, three-dimensional St. Gallen embroidery added shimmer to a short cape and its matching pencil skirt, while a floor-grazing skirt in unlined lamb's fur had its own sheen. Other embellishments, including gridlike patterns of jet crystals and silk fringe, lit up his evening offerings. The fringe was contained by horizontal seams; Kriemler didn't seem quite up to the cheerfulness that loose fringe might've suggested.And yet there were other intimations of a son and a company moving on. Kriemler had some brilliant sportswear on the runway today; his customer will love the look of an oversize herringbone sweater and snood worn with matching chevroned pants, or a pantsuit in a tonal plaid cut from cashmere, angora, and wool. In right about the middle of the show, he included a single white lamb's-fur coat. That bright moment served to underscore the poignancy of this season's story, and one couldn't help but be moved.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 2, 2013
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 391
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2013/akris
| 2,013
|
pre-fall
|
Amelia Earhart had something of the tomboy about her. Who knew she was such a sucker for loveliness? Albert Kriemler took her as his muse for Akris' pre-fall collection, which he prefaced with a quote from the aviatrix herself: "I have often said that the lure of flying is the lure of beauty." She was convinced that this was the real reason that flyers fly.In knowing that, you know more about why Akris, with its focus on sensual luxury, would make Earhart its icon. (That the house is also well known for tailoring doesn't hurt.) The more boyish shapes of the pre-fall collection—the pegged trousers, bomber jackets, and penny loafers—called tomboys to mind. (Even if you happened to be dense, the red leather aviator's jumpsuit and the flying goggles on every model should have made that all very plain.) But the fabrications were, as always, pushed to the hilt. There was shearling for miles—in coats, in vests, in capes—pushed further here than Akris ever has before, in colors like sunset and canary: horizon shades. There were blue suits in a color the company called "denim," but don't get confused—they're cashmere. There'll always be a photo print at the label, and this season's represented the abstracted lines of landscape seen from the air.After the rich colors of the early deliveries, the collection shaded into more graphic black and white—territory, a rep hinted, that Kriemler will be taking up for Fall. The delicate blouse in laser-cut silk chiffon was feminine, almost to a fault. Earhart and her influence had been grounded. Or maybe it's nicer to think of her still out there somewhere, far removed but appreciating it all from the above.
|
Matthew Schneier
|
January 28, 2013
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 392
|
|||
Akris
|
spring-2013-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,013
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
Akris is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, but the first look out was designer Albert Kriemler's way of telling us the Swiss brand is 90 years young. The black pebblestone-embroidered tulle sheath wasn't a model of discretion, if you get our meaning. In fact, many of the outfits in this 90-look show were noticeably sheer, but they weren't as compelling an advertisement for the brand's vitality as the tailoring, most of it softly structured and paired with sexy jersey racerback tanks that dipped low in the front.Models strode out confidently in Walter Steiger-designed ballerina flats, wearing cardigan jackets and A-line horsehair skirts or double-face, elongated gilets with flaring bootleg pants. Tailoring is the heart and soul of Akris, and Kriemler showed the label's range, going from a casual yet crisp oversize button-down and leather almost-leggings (not quite second-skin-tight), to an ivory take on a smoking, to a fluoro orange jacket and matching color-blocked pants.Another theme he touched on: the house-signature photoprints. This season, Kriemler used images of gardens designed by the famous Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, a personal hero of the designer's known for his curved and sensual silos. An overhead shot of the roof garden of the Banco Safra headquarters looked pretty sensational reproduced on a floor-length skirt shown with one of those low-key tanks.With 90 looks on the runway, though, they couldn't all be hits. An organza shift with a huge leaf appliqué didn't quite live up to Akris' elegant reputation. Still, we like what it suggested: that even after nine decades, Akris is still in growth mode.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 29, 2012
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 393
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2013
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/akris
| 2,013
|
resort
|
Akris is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. There's a new book, penned by Valerie Steele, to mark the occasion, and the Swiss label will throw a party in September the night of its Paris show. Standard practices both for a company marking a big milestone. One thing you won't get from designer Albert Kriemler, though, is a retrospective collection that rehashes the brand's past; he's too interested in improving the present. His new Resort lineup contains more than a few pieces designed to make his luxury customers' lives even richer. Take, for instance, a navy evening jacket made from a high-tech Japanese fabric in which the paillettes are woven into the material rather than sewn on top of it, or, at the more casual end of things, a zip-front hoodie whipped up in double-face cashmere. A painting of Prince Albert I of Monaco helming his yacht, thePrincess Alice, is one of three photo prints in the collection. It informed the other two—a print of light reflecting off the Scandinavian sea and another of the Caribbean. A relaxed, casual attitude permeated. Kriemler even showed two different styles of jeans.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
June 26, 2012
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 394
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
This season marks ten years on the Paris runway for the Swiss label Akris. Cause to celebrate. The brand's creative director, Albert Kriemler, has used photo prints in his collections for nearly as long as he's been showing here, but never the work of a living artist, despite being an avid collector of contemporary art. For today's milestone collection he approached the influential German photographer Thomas Ruff. Ruffs thirty-year career spans genres, but he's best known for manipulating existing images. That makes him an apt source for Kriemler, who was doing his own appropriating here.Saturn and its rings were intarsia-ed into a red mink jacket, and an up-close shot of the surface of Mars became a print for a skirtsuit. Both looks landed on the louder side of Kriemler's output. Then there was a sleeveless dress printed with one of Ruff's night-vision photos on top of which the designer embroidered three-dimensional tiles of differing sizes and colors. It sounds busy on paper, but it looked unstudied and chic. Rounding out the collection was luxuriously minimal fare like jackets that reversed from sheared mink to leather or waterproof silk to cashmere. The marvel was how light they were. For the finale, Kriemler lit up embroideries of outer space inspired by Ruff'sStarsseries with LED lights. In another designer's hands, pyrotechnics of that sort could've been silly, but Kriemler was in control of his material from the beginning to the end.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 1, 2014
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 395
|
||
Akris
|
pre-fall-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/akris
| 2,014
|
pre-fall
|
Albert Kriemler tends to look at art and architecture for inspiration. For Pre-Fall, he was thinking along more cinematic lines. Bonnie Parker and Clyde Barrow, as played by the photogenic Faye Dunaway and Warren Beatty in the 1967 movie, are his new muses. Beyond the jaunty berets, however, the references were subtle and smart, as befits the Akris brand.Bonnie and Clyde's getaway car was a Ford, so Kriemler and co. hunted down Ford's color card from the early thirties and used it as the basis for the collection's palette of deep reds, charcoal grays, ivory, and black. Pleated below-the-knee skirts and pleated full-leg trousers likewise hinted at the outlaws' heyday. But Bonnie never had the good fortune of slipping into Akris' oversize leather bomber jacket, which reverses rather luxuriously to nubby shearling. And Dallas and its environs probably had nothing in the way of Akris' St. Gallen mill, nor the silk dresses with fused and embroidered lace that came out of it this season. If it had, Ms. Parker might have been tempted to swipe them.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
November 19, 2013
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 0
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 396
|
|||
Akris
|
spring-2014-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,014
|
ready-to-wear
|
spring
|
One of the subcurrents of the Spring season that is slowly rolling to a close here in Paris is nature. Our manipulation of it (mostly to our detriment) on the one hand, and its awesome power on the other. Akris' Albert Kriemler focused on the latter. His press kit featured photos of sandstone lines, algae, honeycombs in the sand, and granite curves. "It's a dream of fabrics and nature—moved forward through technology," he wrote. That sounds like fertile ground for Kriemler, who treasures fabrics and has Akris' fabulous St. Gallen mill at his disposal. In a number of cases it was.To begin with, Kriemler reproduced those nature images in large scale on cotton voile, plissé chiffon, and even leather. The designer has become known for his photoprints, but these signaled a new direction; they were more abstracted and more exuberant than the street scenes and aerial landscapes he's used for the last couple of seasons. That's why they worked best on a shirtdress, or a breezy skirt worn with a thin-gauge sweater. Paired up in a suit, the patterns tended to be overwhelming. As the collection progressed, Kriemler laid the textures on thick: St. Gallen embroideries in honeycombs of lace, fagoting designed to look like horizontal strands of algae, and, most vividly of all, tiny holographic foil appliqués. The tricky, midriff-revealing cuts on a few dresses did not simplify things. Nature is a dangerous beast, but in the end Kriemler finished strong, confidently in control of a trio of pieces in black and gold wave-pattern chenille.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
September 28, 2013
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 397
|
||
Akris
|
resort-2014
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/akris
| 2,014
|
resort
|
The Pritzker Prize-winning Mexican architect Luis Barragán inspired Albert Kriemler's new Resort collection for Akris. Kriemler's de rigueur photo prints came from Barragán's famous Cuadra San Cristobal in Mexico City; the pink stucco walls are his stables, the flowering trees his bougainvillea. Currently listed at Christie's for $12.9 million, the estate's modernist yet lush style is a good fit for Kriemler, who has branded Akris with a sleek sort of über-luxe.Beyond the vivid color palette—all fuchsia and azure blue—Kriemler's other big obsession this season was fabric development: a wool suit made with 10 percent polyester so it doesn't wrinkle; a double-face wool coat as fine as cashmere, but not as delicate ("which makes it sportier," he said); and a leather tunic cut so thin it moves like silk. Innovations like that keep the Akris customer coming back for more. The most compelling material he used was a black stretch denim, which looked positively elegant cut into an hourglass sheath with sheer tulle shoulders. Kriemler promised its below-the-knee length was a teaser of what's to come for Spring ’14.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
May 15, 2013
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 398
|
|||
Akris
|
fall-2015-ready-to-wear
|
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/akris
| 2,015
|
ready-to-wear
|
fall
|
Akris' Albert Kriemler has long been known as a minimalist, but it's a misconception. It's true that his work is understated compared to much of what we see on the Paris runways, but he does quite a bit of fabric development and invests a good deal of time and energy dreaming up novel ways to embellish the luxurious materials that come out of Akris' St. Gallen mills. That's rarely been truer than it was this season, when Kriemler made an in-depth study of a rather straightforward subject: jackets.It started simply, with his take on the athleisure trend that's swept through fashion. Kriemler's hoodie came in bicolor Sea Island cotton, and was shown underneath a reversible silk fleece blazer downy as all get-out. From there, he upped the ante: quilting leather for a fitted down jacket, laser-cutting small checks into the gray and white tartan of a pantsuit, and embroidering tiny bits of wool onto the silk tulle of a column dress and matching redingote gilet.Things culminated in cotton-lace parkas that appeared to be lacquered. These were clean, streamlined clothes—the real bang for the buck will be found at close range, where the details can be savored. Kriemler's main interest here was surface treatments, so he stuck to a restrained palette of barely there neutrals and black, save for a one-off bright yellow leather tunic. A little more of that kind of color could've woken up this well-executed but somewhat sleepy collection.
|
Nicole Phelps
|
March 8, 2015
|
Albert Kriemler
|
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] | 1
|
Albert Kriemler
|
Albert Kriemler
| 0
| 399
|
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