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Adam Selman | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/adam-selman | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | Ever the adventurer,Adam Selmanwill gleefully chart a course where others dare not go.Fallfound him obsessed with Cookie Mueller, an oft-overlooked bad girl in John Waters’s morally bankrupt coterie. This season Selman blew all the way to one of the smaller Hawaiian islands, where he discovered Taylor Camp, a ’60s and ... | Lee Carter | September 11, 2015 | Adam Selman | [
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Adam Selman | resort-2016 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/adam-selman | 2,016 | resort | In a refreshing burst of honesty, Adam Selman admitted today that his inspiration this season was…Adam Selman. "I feel like girls appreciate the way I put myself together," he said, "and it struck me, they're probably looking for that in the clothes I design, too." Selman was on to something, and his instinct to emphas... | Maya Singer | June 10, 2015 | Adam Selman | [
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Adam Selman | fall-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-selman | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | fall | Adam Selman loves weaving his collections with quirky obsessions. His past fixations have included wayward John Waters characters, a forgotten nudist colony loosely affiliated with Elizabeth Taylor, and a Netflix crime drama that he couldn’t help but binge-watch. But top of mind for Fall, he said, was an old favorite: ... | Lee Carter | February 10, 2017 | Adam Selman | [
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Adam Selman | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/adam-selman | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | Why settle for just one great reference when you could have the whole lot?Adam Selman’s long been a bit of a magpie, aesthetically speaking, in recent seasons referencing a ’60s and ’70s nudist colony and, with his ongoing Le Specs collab, creating cat-eye shades inspired by Catherine Deneuve’s pair inThe Hunger’s icon... | Kristin Anderson | September 9, 2016 | Adam Selman | [
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Adam Selman | fall-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-selman | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | fall | Always ready with a playful wink and a nudge, Adam Selman outdid himself today with his unabashed ode to ’80s haute-camp. It came off particularly kinky, even by ’80s standards, perhaps a nod to the surreal style of Guy Bourdin or to the clever satirists atToilet Paper. But no, in fact those cheeky illustrations and th... | Lee Carter | February 9, 2018 | Adam Selman | [
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Adam Selman | spring-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/adam-selman | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | spring | “People are running from America like it’s a bad word,” lamented Adam Selman backstage before showtime. “So I wanted to run toward it, embrace it even more.” Ever the contrarian, he seemed to be citing both the less than auspicious political reality the country finds itself in, to put it mildly, and this season’s mass ... | Lee Carter | September 8, 2017 | Adam Selman | [
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Adeam | spring-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | spring | We're posting runway pictures from Tokyo fashion week for the first time ever. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss Tommy Ton's street-style shots. | null | October 18, 2012 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | Sandwiched between so many collections billing themselves as that most nebulous of things, "edgy," an offering like ADEAM's New York runway debut runs the risk of feeling quaint in its primness. And yet, even with her hyper-feminine forms, designer Hanako Maeda carried off a collection both ladylike and relevant. Perha... | Kristin Anderson | February 8, 2014 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | When Hanako Maeda launched ADEAM (an inversion of her last name) back in 2011, she chose to accent the label's logo with a plum flower taken from her family crest. Fittingly, nature has served as a continual source of inspiration for the young designer since the beginning. For Fall, Maeda conjured up a modern woodland ... | Brittany Adams | September 7, 2013 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | Fall found ADEAM designer Hanako Maeda in a quieter mood, far from last season's Yves Klein blue and glossy heat transfers. Here was a lineup in charcoal, black, oxblood, cream, and little else. Fabrication is always paramount to the brand, but the rich fil coupe from Maeda's Fall '14 outing was nowhere to be found–tho... | Kristin Anderson | February 16, 2015 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | spring | Hanako Maeda has had quite a year. Back in February she showed formal, confectionary clothes at Lincoln Center for Fall. June saw an about-face as ADEAM turned out sporty, sometimes space-age ensembles for Resort. And for Spring '15, she struck a compelling balance between the two. Bearing in mind Yves Klein'sAnthropom... | Kristin Anderson | September 8, 2014 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2015 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/adeam | 2,015 | resort | ADEAM's second Resort collection flies in the face of the frothy femininity sent down the catwalk just a few months ago—more or less. Here, some of the ladylike silhouettes remained, but designer Hanako Maeda had kitted them out in conceptual accents, zeroing in on the idea ofwabi-sabi—organic beauty in all of its impe... | Kristin Anderson | June 3, 2014 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | ADEAM’s Hanako Maeda is stepping ahead; her Spring 2016 collection was picked up by Net-a-Porter, a big deal for any young brand, and her follow-up Fall presentation continues, perhaps more expressively and kinetically, in the vein of exploring Japan’s cultural capital. “I looked at Japanese arts and crafts, its folklo... | Nick Remsen | February 11, 2016 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | Hanako Maedahas been busy rediscovering her Japanese roots. On a recent trip to Kyoto, she grew particularly enamored of her native country’s architecture. ForSpring, she focused on marrying the aesthetic heritage of Japan with the lean sophistication of New York, her adopted hometown, just as East met West during the ... | Kristin Anderson | September 14, 2015 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2016 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/adeam | 2,016 | resort | Hanako Maeda studied art history at Columbia University, and while it may not have been a direct path from there to her current role designing ADEAM, there's no downplaying the influence it has had on her collections. See: Spring 2015, with its brilliant cobalt splashes in homage to Yves Klein, or Resort '15's urbane b... | Kristin Anderson | June 3, 2015 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | fall | Let’s start with Hanako Maeda’s finale, shall we? When the last model, clad in a dreamy black gown, made her way down the stark white runway, she didn’t turn. Instead, she kept going and took her seat at the drum set that had remained untouched the entire show. She began to bang on the drums, whipping her jet black hai... | Brooke Bobb | February 9, 2017 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | Hanako Maeda has been mining her Japanese roots since she startedADEAM, but this season found her thinking along more introspective lines. Her starting point for Spring ’17 wasshodo, the Japanese art of calligraphy, which she chose for both its beautiful, curving brushstrokes and its meditative qualities. It’s believed... | Emily Farra | September 7, 2016 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2017 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/adeam | 2,017 | resort | On a steamy June morning, Hanako Maeda’s vision for Resort 2017 could hardly have felt more resonant. TheADEAMdesigner’s mood board was outfitted with images of traditional yukatas, the warm-weather, casual kimonos from her native Japan. They’re hundreds of years old, but something in their simplicity and offhanded ele... | Kristin Anderson | June 7, 2016 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | fall | The ladies of 1920s Japan had a few things in common with women today. Referred to back then as “modern girls,” they were the Far East version of American flappers, who broke with ancient traditions, celebrated their worth, and experimented with independence. “These were working-class women who suddenly had financial f... | Brooke Bobb | February 8, 2018 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | spring | It’s only been two days, but ideas about diversity and optimism have already started to punctuate New York Fashion Week, and you didn’t have to be psychic to see it coming. If designers can do anything right now to help soften the daily blows coming out of the White House, it’s to stay away from doom and gloom and give... | Brooke Bobb | September 8, 2017 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | fall | It’s not uncommon for Hanako Maeda to mine her cultural history for inspiration. In conceptualizing her previousAdeamcollections, she’s looked to the rebellious breakthrough of Japanese women in the 1920s and the origination of the Harajuku punk girl during the ’90s. Her interpretations of these zeitgeist moments in Ja... | Brooke Bobb | February 9, 2019 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | pre-fall-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/adeam | 2,019 | pre-fall | It’s obvious to state that humans are now completely dependent on their phones and computers for communication, information, and commerce. In fashion, however, despite the fact that many labels are focused on upping their Instagram footprints or selling clothes with the help of a digital avatar, precious handmade thing... | Brooke Bobb | December 4, 2018 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | spring | The thing about Hanako Maeda is that she makes really pretty clothes. There are others doing that too, but when looking at the overarching fashion landscape, especially in America, really pretty clothes seem like a blip on the radar. Mostly, the hype has been built around ugly-chic, tacky-chic, and crafty-chic rather t... | Brooke Bobb | September 8, 2018 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/adeam | 2,019 | resort | Designer Hanako Maeda used to bury her head in Japanese teen magazines. Growing up in Tokyo during the ’90s, publications aimed at young fashion wannabes—two of the most popular beingCUTiEandOlive—provided her with a special lens into the world of creative self-styling. Maeda learned how to layer clothes and play aroun... | Brooke Bobb | June 6, 2018 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2020-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,020 | ready-to-wear | fall | Sportyis not a word you’d typically associate with Adeam. Hanako Maeda’s designs are dreamy and sometimes fanciful, with sparkly embellishments or a voluminous silhouette. They can be sculptural and clean-cut, but they aren’t the sort of clothes you can wear to and from yoga class. This season, however, Maeda switched ... | Brooke Bobb | February 10, 2020 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2020-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,020 | ready-to-wear | spring | In the last year, Hanako Maeda has been busy building up a celebrity clientele. Michelle Obama and Oprah are fans of Maeda’s brand Adeam, and today, Maggie Gyllenhaal was seated in the front row at the Spring 2020 show. As the designer mentioned backstage, she’s also been creating a lot of custom pieces for her VIP cli... | Brooke Bobb | September 7, 2019 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2021-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,021 | ready-to-wear | fall | Hanako Maeda looked to six contemporary Japanese artists featured in the “STARS” exhibition at the Mori Art Museum to guide her fall 2021 collection. Silhouettes inspired by Yayoi Kusama’s sculptures and Hiroshi Sugimoto’s architecture photographs met modern details like exaggerated sleeves and two-piece sets.After spe... | Eliseé Browchuk | February 16, 2021 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | pre-fall-2021 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2021/adeam | 2,021 | pre-fall | For pre-fall 2021, Adeam’s Hanako Maeda drew inspiration from her childhood memories spent at her family’s summer home in Kawaguchiko, a countryside escape near Japan’s Mount Fuji. “I wanted to focus on the more calm and serene aspect of summertime,” she explained of the easy, comforting vibe. Using shades of pastels t... | Eliseé Browchuk | December 7, 2020 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2021-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,021 | ready-to-wear | spring | A few days ago, Hanako Maeda presented her spring 2021 collection from her parent’s home in Tokyo. She was dressed casually and wearing glasses as she spoke about working remotely and sleeping in her childhood bedroom. The COVID-19 lockdowns have drastically changed the ways in which we live, and for Maeda, who runs a ... | Brooke Bobb | September 14, 2020 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2022-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,022 | ready-to-wear | fall | Hanako Maeda is celebrating 10 years of her label Adeam this season. As such, she’s indulging in some well-deserved nostalgia. First, she remembered her earliest memories of living in New York, when she would walk in Central Park after school in the fall. The other core memory informing the season is her New York Fashi... | Sarah Spellings | February 14, 2022 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | pre-fall-2022 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2022/adeam | 2,022 | pre-fall | Hanako Maeda was reminiscing on past summers while dreaming up her pre-fall collection, specifically a semester when she studied abroad at Parsons in Paris, traveling within France and to Lake Como on the weekends. The memory of those idyllic European landscapes provided ample inspiration, both for the floral print see... | Sarah Spellings | December 6, 2021 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2022-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,022 | ready-to-wear | spring | When presented with the challenge of creating a digital fashion show during a global pandemic, there are two main schools of thought: Either you use limitations to your advantage and make a collection that highlights the beauty of making do, or you turn to the unlimited resources of the internet and technology and make... | Sarah Spellings | September 8, 2021 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2022 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2022/adeam | 2,022 | resort | Though many who grew up in the early aughts protest, Y2K fashion has officially been revived. Just a quick scroll through TikTok will show you that Gen Z has embraced the high-gloss look resplendent with rhinestones, low-rises, and lots and lots of skin. For resort 2022, Adeam designer Hanako Maeda joined the pack of d... | Sarah Spellings | June 11, 2021 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2023-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,023 | ready-to-wear | fall | The angel from my nightmareThe shadow in the background of the morgueThe unsuspecting victimOf darkness in the valleyWe can live like Jack and Sally if we want.You read that right: Blink 182’s “Miss You” is being quoted in an Adeam review. The teenage angst anthem of the 2000s was on the soundtrack of Hanako Maeda’s fa... | José Criales-Unzueta | February 12, 2023 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | pre-fall-2023 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2023/adeam | 2,023 | pre-fall | Adeam’s Hanako Maeda grew up in between New York City and Japan. She spent many of her childhood summers in the resorts of Kawaguchiko, one of the five lakes located at the base of Mount Fuji, where her preferred activity was tennis. For pre-fall, she. ruminated on her memories of the preppy tennis outfits that were a ... | José Criales-Unzueta | December 8, 2022 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2023-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,023 | ready-to-wear | spring | Hanako Maeda was in a celebratory mood for spring: it’s her label’s 10th anniversary. Today’s Adeam show, held at the penthouse of One Hudson Square, marked the brand’s return to the runway after almost three years. “I still cherish the excitement of my first time presenting at Fashion Week,” wrote Maeda in her show no... | José Criales-Unzueta | September 15, 2022 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2023 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/adeam | 2,023 | resort | This is a big year for Adeam and its founder Hanako Maeda. The label is celebrating its 10th-year anniversary, planning a return to New York Fashion Week this September, and launching a collaboration with Carolyn Murphy later this month at a pop-up store on Madison Avenue.While Maeda’s fall 2022 collection focused on n... | José Criales-Unzueta | June 6, 2022 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | fall-2024-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,024 | ready-to-wear | fall | For Hanako Maeda, opposites attract. “I feel like throughout this collection you see this dichotomy between something that feels more romantic versus something that feels more minimal, between fabrics that are constructed and fabrics that are soft,” the creative director of New York and Tokyo based Adeam said from her ... | Elise Taylor | February 12, 2024 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | pre-fall-2024 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2024/adeam | 2,024 | pre-fall | Hanako Maeda is perennially inspired by Tokyo and New York, but this season she brought a little dolce vita into her sensible modern wardrobe. If her spring collection was a serious alternative to balletcore, pre-fall takes tomato girl summer to task. “I was really inspired by my trip visiting the south of Italy,” Maed... | Sarah Spellings | December 4, 2023 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2024-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,024 | ready-to-wear | spring | In case you missed it, balletcore took over the micro-trend TikTok multiverse last year. Such was the virality of the trend that it bled onto the runways and many a magazine’s website, including this one.But Adeam’s Hanako Maeda did not have TikTok—and its ballet flats and pale tights and frilly tutus and cutesy bows—i... | José Criales-Unzueta | September 10, 2023 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2024 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2024/adeam | 2,024 | resort | Adeam’s Hanako Maeda has been designing for more than 10 years. Now that she’s reached her mid-thirties, as she shared over Zoom, her point of view has evolved. Both Adeam and Maeda have grown up, as has her customer, she said. It’s through this introspection that she arrived at her resort 2024 collection.“I feel like ... | José Criales-Unzueta | June 5, 2023 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | spring-2025-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/adeam | 2,025 | ready-to-wear | spring | InThe Devil Wears Prada, Meryl Streep’s Miranda Priestly famously rolls her eyes at the constant presence of flowers in spring collections. “Florals, for spring? Groundbreaking,” she tells her editors. With all due respect to Mrs. Priestley, in the case of Adeam, it did feel like an exciting feat.This season, the New Y... | Elise Taylor | September 9, 2024 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Adeam | resort-2025 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2025/adeam | 2,025 | resort | Hanako Maeda’s Adeam is inspired by her own upbringing; she was born in Tokyo but grew up in New York City, and her label fuses the fashion she wears in both cities. “My own life experience does have this kind of duality between the Eastern world and the Western world,” she said.For her resort 2025 collection, she deci... | Elise Taylor | June 12, 2024 | Hanako Maeda | [
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Agnona | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | Collezione Uno, Stefano Pilati'ssecondcollection for Agnona (the first being the ground Zero of his creative directorship), was a more complete offering than his first: more eveningwear, something for the cocktail category, a signature bag, plus the beauteous Dree Hemingway as the face of the label. But Inez and Vinood... | Tim Blanks | February 21, 2014 | Stefano Pilati | [
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Agnona | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | If the launch of Stefano Pilati's first collection for Agnona was somewhat unconventional, his intentions for the label are nothing less. He is making a stab at genuinely season-less dressing, and, to underscore that, the launch took place in a pop-up shop where people could immediately buy the clothes and see prototyp... | Tim Blanks | September 17, 2013 | Stefano Pilati | [
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Agnona | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | When Stefano Pilati pitched his tent at Agnona, he was deliberately a shadow figure. He wanted a clear division between his creative duties there and at its menswear counterpart, Zegna. There would be no shows for Agnona, no designer appearances. He would be a presence unseen. But, oh, how he was felt. The Pilati signa... | Tim Blanks | February 27, 2015 | Stefano Pilati | [
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Agnona | spring-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | spring | If you were going to give a snappy title to today's presentation of Stefano Pilati's third collection for Agnona, Old Egypt and New Bondage would probably do it. Pilati's not a fan of nostalgia in fashion, but as he was working the volumes of his new looks, he made a silhouette out of a paneled skirt that reminded him ... | Tim Blanks | September 19, 2014 | Stefano Pilati | [
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Agnona | resort-2015 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2015/agnona | 2,015 | resort | The simplest definition of Agnona under the creative directorship of Stefano Pilati would be that it is Ermenegildo Zegna for women, though Pilati himself would never want you to say that. Still, there was enough DNA shared between the Zegna men's show on Saturday morning and the Agnona Resort show that Pilati presente... | Tim Blanks | June 20, 2014 | Stefano Pilati | [
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Agnona | fall-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | fall | At last,Agnonagets a show—in a conspicuously modest space—and a dedicated designer in (the conspicuously modest) Simon Holloway. When Zegna charged him with jump-starting its previously stalled attempt at reviving this ’50s-era knitwear label as the feminine counterpoint to Zegna itself, Holloway said, “the brief was w... | Luke Leitch | February 26, 2016 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | spring-2016-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,016 | ready-to-wear | spring | This was a poignant presentation—yet not necessarily in the way thatAgnona’s producers intended. In the atrium a tree had been installed whose foliage was a mixture of desiccated leaves and dead butterflies. From its lifeless branches hung 16 looks that were two-thirds miniaturized in cashmere voile—11 from the archive... | Luke Leitch | September 25, 2015 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | fall-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | fall | Simon Holloway was on a buying trip when he found an old photo of Halston on the roof of the Agnona mill. “They were all wearing these great taupe suits,” said the designer admiringly (wearing a camel cashmere blazer, himself).That photo was taken in the 1970s, around the same time the brand graduated from simply funct... | Luke Leitch | February 25, 2017 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | pre-fall-2017 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2017/agnona | 2,017 | pre-fall | While delving into the archives,Agnona’s creative director, Simon Holloway, happened to find an advertorial from the ’70s shot on location in the Sonamarg valley in the Indian Kashmir region. Against a backdrop of snowcapped mountains, two blonde models swathed in sumptuous layers of the label’s albino cashmere were pl... | Tiziana Cardini | February 3, 2017 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | spring-2017-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,017 | ready-to-wear | spring | It’s hard to argue with a collection full of clothes beautifully made to be beautiful that succeeds as well as this. The only possible caveats to proffer are that a) this uptown cracker of a collection from Simon Holloway will almost certainly be fiendishly expensive (I felt a sense of impending doom just to be near a ... | Luke Leitch | September 25, 2016 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | resort-2017 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/agnona | 2,017 | resort | Simon Holloway was appointedAgnona’s creative director just a season ago, but he’s putting his mark on the label’s look, firmly yet gently, as his personal style dictates. Unfailingly polite, the British-born Holloway seems well suited to give Agnona both flair and consistency. One of the storied Italian textile brands... | Tiziana Cardini | June 21, 2016 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | fall-2018-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,018 | ready-to-wear | fall | Simon Holloway was leafing through past editions of the no-longer-publishedAgnonamagazine from the late 1970s and early 1980s when he stumbled across a trove of rather lovely film noir–style editorials featuring the knit house’s garments in makeup shades: chocolate, taupe, nude, plum. These proved the starting point fo... | Luke Leitch | February 24, 2018 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | fall-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | fall | WhenMarc Jacobs’s Spring 1993 collection for Perry Ellishit the runway, it got him fired and the critics in an almighty lather. “Grunge,” pronounced Cathy Horyn, “is anathema to fashion.” “Grunge is ghastly,” averred Suzy Menkes. Similarly, bothThe New York TimesandNew Yorkmagazine descended into fits. It turns out tha... | Luke Leitch | February 23, 2019 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | pre-fall-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2019/agnona | 2,019 | pre-fall | Simon Holloway, Agnona’s creative director, was fascinated by the recent exhibition “Making Her Self Up” at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, which showcased Frida Kahlo’s private belongings, displayed for the first time outside Mexico, where they had been locked away for 50 years after her death. They revealed... | Tiziana Cardini | December 13, 2018 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | spring-2019-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,019 | ready-to-wear | spring | Edie Campbell in a trench, a shirt and bra made of a poplin woven in vicuña, and a loose pant, and Amber Valletta in a vicuña knit kaftan dress were at the top and tail of this lushly fabricated Agnona collection. Who even knew poplin in vicuña could exist? Simon Holloway riffed loosely on the work and attire of Joan J... | Luke Leitch | September 22, 2018 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | resort-2019 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/agnona | 2,019 | resort | Simon Holloway is not keen on delving into elaborate references for Agnona’s collections; he doesn’t need to. He seems to have a natural understanding of the Italian label’s codes, which are as deceptively simple as they’re sophisticated. He has a real woman in mind, not abstract archetypes: “Our collections are ageles... | Tiziana Cardini | June 7, 2018 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | spring-2020-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/agnona | 2,020 | ready-to-wear | spring | A big part of what makes Agnona so very special is its fabrication, the details of which can be challenging to glean when the clothes are whooshing past at speed. Happily, the label’s designer, Simon Holloway, is on hand and willing to dig deep into the granular data.Take the trenchcoat in Look 13: “That’s in a silk du... | Luke Leitch | September 22, 2019 | Simon Holloway | [
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Agnona | resort-2020 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2020/agnona | 2,020 | resort | Need a crash course in the finest, most inconspicuously luxurious fabrics on the market? A visit to the Agnona showroom can provide it. And if you could secure Simon Holloway’s fluent, meticulous expertise to guide you through it, even the trickiest exam could be passed with top grades.A fastidious attention to quality... | Tiziana Cardini | June 10, 2019 | Simon Holloway | [
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Akris | fall-2004-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2004-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,004 | ready-to-wear | fall | Every season has one or two of those shows where a well-respected but not terribly exciting line suddenly whips off its glasses, undoes a few buttons, and shakes out its topknot, leaving jaded fashion-world regulars stuttering over their words and groping for notebooks. This time, that delightful transformation happene... | Janet Ozzard | March 8, 2004 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2005-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2005-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,005 | ready-to-wear | fall | Since the Swiss label Akris, designed by Albert Kriemler, entered the Paris scene, it has quietly garnered an impressive reputation for stealthily luxurious clothes that also happen to sell like crazy. So what's the secret? A conundrum that tangentially reveals a lot about our times, as it happens. For the buzz (or, mo... | Sarah Mower | March 3, 2005 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2005-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2005-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,005 | ready-to-wear | spring | Unlike many labels, the Swiss house of Akris doesn't use ear-splitting music or crazy styling to jazz up its understated urban staples. This season did, though, see a small yet significant change: Instead of showing at its chic Paris HQ, the house chose the Carrousel du Louvre, the location favored by the likes of Chan... | Mark Holgate | October 7, 2004 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2006-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,006 | ready-to-wear | fall | Albert Kriemler's Akris collections speak in hushed tones. That's what makes his clothes so popular with ladies of decorous taste yet lavish means, but it doesn't always make for good runway. To compare him to the showman Karl Lagerfeld—whose Chanel productions directly precede those of Akris—isn't fair, of course, but... | Nicole Phelps | March 2, 2006 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2007-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2007-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,007 | ready-to-wear | fall | Herzog & de Meuron, the visionary Swiss architects, were on Albert Kriemler's mind this season. The silvery high-tech "skin" of the Walker Art Center was interpreted as a georgette-covered metallic shrug, and San Francisco's new de Young could be seen in the sequins scattered over a black slip dress. Some of the more o... | Nicole Phelps | February 27, 2007 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2008-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2008-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,008 | ready-to-wear | spring | Albert Kriemler finds himself in a tricky position: As the creative force behind Akris, he dresses seriously chic women—Diane Sawyer, for one—in seriously chic clothes that are fashionable without being fashion-y. No small accomplishment. But he wants to be taken seriously as a designer, too, which means setting trends... | Nicole Phelps | October 2, 2007 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2008 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2008/akris | 2,008 | resort | Trends evolve rather than ricochet back and forth at Akris. For Resort, Albert Kriemler explored some of the ideas from his Fall show—such as coats with a sheer fabric layered over a solid—in warm-weather materials. Delicate ladder work added subtle decoration to cream-colored shift dresses. New for the season were hig... | Laird Borrelli-Persson | July 9, 2007 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2009-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,009 | ready-to-wear | fall | Akris' profile is on the upswing lately, thanks to Angelina Jolie, who wore a minimal white suit from the Swiss label during the press junket forThe Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Designer Albert Kriemler, an avowed architecture buff, found inspiration for Fall in a pavilion in China's Jinhua Architecture Park design... | Nicole Phelps | March 7, 2009 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2010-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2010-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,010 | ready-to-wear | fall | Picking up where his smart pre-collection left off, Albert Kriemler's Fall lineup was focused on languid, seventies-ish tailoring and outerwear with a sportif sensibility. The lean, spare silhouette of his suits—elongated jacket, high-waisted flared trousers—provided an opportunity to showcase the fine fabrics that Akr... | Nicole Phelps | March 6, 2010 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2010-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2010-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,010 | ready-to-wear | spring | Albert Kriemler has designed his first-ever handbag collection for Akris, and his Spring clothes served as a well-considered minimalist canvas upon which to launch it. A few coats and dresses were made from leather that was scissored into narrow trapezoids, then re-glued for a geometric effect. But for the most part, K... | Nicole Phelps | October 3, 2009 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2010 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2010/akris | 2,010 | resort | Akris is a name on everybody's lips these days because these are clothes that seem especially right for the times. Beautifully made and trend-resistant, they're the very definition of investment dressing. Albert Kriemler wanted his Resort collection to be a feel-good one—literally. To that end he focused on fabric deve... | Laird Borrelli-Persson | June 25, 2009 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2011-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | fall | The Salle Wagram, a dance hall dating to 1865, suggested we were in for a different kind of Akris show than we're used to. And indeed the program notes said that designer Albert Kriemler took the Vienna Secession movement as muse for Fall. But he hardly went as bohemian or Art Nouveau as all that suggests. Kriemler is ... | Nicole Phelps | March 5, 2011 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2011-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2011-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,011 | ready-to-wear | spring | The minimalism trend has been good for Akris' Albert Kriemler. Everyone's shopping for a pantsuit lately, and smart tailoring is in his family company's DNA. The upshot: More than a few women who might've previously written off the Swiss brand as strictly for uptown types have been turned on by the quality of its fabri... | Nicole Phelps | October 2, 2010 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2011 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2011/akris | 2,011 | resort | Albert Kriemler took his cues for Resort from Jean-Luc Godard's Capri-set filmLe Mépris. It made for an unusually unrestrained Akris outing, complete with a pair of vivid photo prints—one of the island's sun-drenched Marina Grande and another of a packed outdoor café—which he used for shirtdresses, horsehair tote bags,... | Nicole Phelps | June 20, 2010 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | fall | Franz Kline'sPainting No. 7was Albert Kriemler's starting point for Akris this season. The black slashes on the action painter's famous canvas inspired not only the geometric grid print of the opening pantsuit but also the graphic color-blocking and patchworking of different fabrics and textures that informed much of c... | Nicole Phelps | March 3, 2012 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | pre-fall-2012 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2012/akris | 2,012 | pre-fall | The sportiness of race cars inspired Akris' Albert Kriemler to go shorter, sleeker, sheerer, and sunnier for Spring, but he's relaxed into his more restrained Swiss groove for his latest pre-collection. That sections of his new offering were divided into color-coded blocks called Steam, Wheat, and Steel should give you... | Matthew Schneier | January 29, 2012 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2012-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2012-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,012 | ready-to-wear | spring | Like Miuccia Prada, Akris' Albert Kriemler got turned on by cars this season. Kriemler specifically referenced John Frankenheimer's 1966 filmGrand Prix, set in Monaco and other pit stops from motor racing's golden age. Still, the two collections were as night and day as you'd expect; where Prada was cheeky, Akris was s... | Nicole Phelps | October 1, 2011 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2012 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2012/akris | 2,012 | resort | Disco, at Akris? Albert Kriemler looked to Studio 54 for Resort, a well-trod reference point if ever there was one, and somewhat unlikely for a brand that prides itself on its elegance and refinement. If a black-and-white photo print of the jam-packed club erred on the literal side, it came across surprisingly subtly o... | Nicole Phelps | June 20, 2011 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2013-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | fall | Albert Kriemler lost his mother, Ute, last December. His show today, accompanied by a small orchestra playing her favorite composer, Bach, was a tribute to her, he explained backstage. Although it was almost all black, and inspired by her personal wardrobe of turtleneck gowns, blouse-and-pant combos, and clean tailorin... | Nicole Phelps | March 2, 2013 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | pre-fall-2013 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2013/akris | 2,013 | pre-fall | Amelia Earhart had something of the tomboy about her. Who knew she was such a sucker for loveliness? Albert Kriemler took her as his muse for Akris' pre-fall collection, which he prefaced with a quote from the aviatrix herself: "I have often said that the lure of flying is the lure of beauty." She was convinced that th... | Matthew Schneier | January 28, 2013 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2013-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2013-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,013 | ready-to-wear | spring | Akris is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, but the first look out was designer Albert Kriemler's way of telling us the Swiss brand is 90 years young. The black pebblestone-embroidered tulle sheath wasn't a model of discretion, if you get our meaning. In fact, many of the outfits in this 90-look show were noti... | Nicole Phelps | September 29, 2012 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2013 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2013/akris | 2,013 | resort | Akris is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. There's a new book, penned by Valerie Steele, to mark the occasion, and the Swiss label will throw a party in September the night of its Paris show. Standard practices both for a company marking a big milestone. One thing you won't get from designer Albert Kriemler, ... | Nicole Phelps | June 26, 2012 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | fall | This season marks ten years on the Paris runway for the Swiss label Akris. Cause to celebrate. The brand's creative director, Albert Kriemler, has used photo prints in his collections for nearly as long as he's been showing here, but never the work of a living artist, despite being an avid collector of contemporary art... | Nicole Phelps | March 1, 2014 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | pre-fall-2014 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2014/akris | 2,014 | pre-fall | Albert Kriemler tends to look at art and architecture for inspiration. For Pre-Fall, he was thinking along more cinematic lines. Bonnie Parker and Clyde Barrow, as played by the photogenic Faye Dunaway and Warren Beatty in the 1967 movie, are his new muses. Beyond the jaunty berets, however, the references were subtle ... | Nicole Phelps | November 19, 2013 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | spring-2014-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2014-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,014 | ready-to-wear | spring | One of the subcurrents of the Spring season that is slowly rolling to a close here in Paris is nature. Our manipulation of it (mostly to our detriment) on the one hand, and its awesome power on the other. Akris' Albert Kriemler focused on the latter. His press kit featured photos of sandstone lines, algae, honeycombs i... | Nicole Phelps | September 28, 2013 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | resort-2014 | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2014/akris | 2,014 | resort | The Pritzker Prize-winning Mexican architect Luis Barragán inspired Albert Kriemler's new Resort collection for Akris. Kriemler's de rigueur photo prints came from Barragán's famous Cuadra San Cristobal in Mexico City; the pink stucco walls are his stables, the flowering trees his bougainvillea. Currently listed at Chr... | Nicole Phelps | May 15, 2013 | Albert Kriemler | [
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Akris | fall-2015-ready-to-wear | https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-to-wear/akris | 2,015 | ready-to-wear | fall | Akris' Albert Kriemler has long been known as a minimalist, but it's a misconception. It's true that his work is understated compared to much of what we see on the Paris runways, but he does quite a bit of fabric development and invests a good deal of time and energy dreaming up novel ways to embellish the luxurious ma... | Nicole Phelps | March 8, 2015 | Albert Kriemler | [
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