text stringlengths 1 14.3k |
|---|
Not sure if you remember, but your advice for replacing that NTC with a peice of wire , is still holding up quite nicely on my charger ! |
Ultimate goal is to buy and mount a controllable grin charger right onto my bike frame or onto my battery box |
Hmm , guess there's nothing stopping me from mounting my current charger on there |
You might wanna get a replacement NTC someday.. but yea. |
I was wondering that too, just pot the whole thing, maybe derate it a bit (as it has a fan, but potting should also absorb some heat) and add a vacuum cord üòÖ |
Would be so much neater than taking everything out the bag every time, and running to unplug it if rain |
As long as you have enough space , I can't see it being an issue |
ok so me and my friend just looked at a bike |
the brake rotor was bending every time we applied the rear brake |
and it had barely any rear brakes |
has anyone seen that happen before? |
it was a rad power from 2020 btw |
Was it a mechanical disc brake (as opposed to hydraulic)? |
If it's mechanical, a little bend of the rotor during braking is normal, because the brake caliper has only one moving pad. |
the front wasn't moving at all tho |
it was mechanical |
Obviously something's wrong if the rear brake hardly worked. But a little rotor bending on mech discs is normal. |
Hard to say what's going on with those brakes without more info, which you would get from getting hands on with them and trying to adjust / fix them. But mechanical disc brakes are very user-serviceable, and not too expensive to replace (unless you want to *upgrade*) in the rare event there is actually something wrong with them. |
how much would it be to replace the rear brakesa? |
Most of the time, a poorly functioning mechanical disc brake is the result of a user who just doesn't realize they need regular maintenance / adjustment. |
like rotor and pads |
ball park |
80 something right |
Pretty rare to need a new rotor, but like, $30 maybe? If you're not going too fancy. |
Pads like $15/set. |
Just spitballing - been a bit since I've looked. |
got ya got ya |
A whole new caliper (which probably isn't needed), like $30-$50. |
I paid a little more for my rotor |
would you say 1k is a good price for a used rad runner? |
Yeah, it's not hard to find nicer and more expensive brake parts. |
I'm just figuring, if you're looking to replace Rad stock parts with roughly alike parts. |
got ya got ya |
On that, honestly no idea. I'm very not in touch with the used prebuilt market. lol |
Worth asking over in #prebuilt-ebikes though |
I just recently bought the most popular cheap mechs on Amazon(EU) and so far they are fing great, probably down to soft pads and a rough new rotor, they were like 32€+shipping for a pair with discs, rotors, levers and cables, my old rotors I wore down 0.2mm in 15 years of not constant riding, so they need to be replaced eventually... Things I dislike compared to my old, they are single casting instead of two parts, and the pads are a bit smaller, so probably won't last as long, as far as constant adjustment and bendy rotors, you can (I did just now, so can't say yet, probably not recommended) mount them slightly loose and use threadlocker to keep secure, and they will self adjust, most economy cars also squeeze from just one side and while caliper slides... |
You can also get a mech caliper that squeezes both sides, still not as good as hydraulic... But hydraulics are their own can of worms, if you don't know how to work on them, maybe stick to mechs |
I can vouch for two-piston mech calipers. I use TRP Spykes, and they're great. |
As good as midrange or better hydraulics? lolno |
But good enough, very low maintenance, and easy to work on. |
I just realized, I've never worked on a car that hasn't had had the brakes squeeze from both sides |
they all are either single piston or dual piston on the wheel well side |
but tbf brake rotors on cars are DUMMY thic |
and the pistons self adjust |
unless they're drums but fuck drums lmao |
Drums are love, drums are life |
Regen is the shit tho |
And that is why. Bicycle single piston brakes flex the rotor over. |
Drums also self adjust btw. |
Not from the piston |
(I believe either when using the parking brake, or when stoping in reverse the adjuster is activated) |
Drums have an adjuster opposite of the piston |
It’s a little flat bar, with a knotch and a rachet usually |
On the piston you screw it in or press it back, the piston itself is what adjusts |
Yea |
I’ve done many drums |
Too many |
Shits absolutely fucked |
The nice ones tho are the ones that you adjust yourself |
Usually they’re much simpler |
You just gotta adjust them every year |
And they’re only on really old cars |
But it’s so much easier to replace the brake |
Im going to sleep, cya. |
Cya bro have a good sleep üò¥ |
Good night |
just 20 hours late on that one |
I messed up badly and blew all 3 hall sensors on my hub motor and blew the vesc at the same time. All my mistake, muddled up some connectors and sent battery voltage where 5v should have been |
Eeeeeeeek |
Yea 52v up the old 5v line will screw a few things. |
Bahahaha what |
How did you end up feeding hall sensors 52v |
You know how the KT LCD takes battery voltage? |
Yeah |
I stupidly made the mistake of using the same connector for the display as for the hall sensors |
Lmao |
Oof :( |
Note future akbar use a 6 pin jst sm for controller to motor |
I've made similar mistakes before, but never anywhere near that costly. That's painful. |
What makes it worse is my motor does use 6 signal wires |
As it has a temp sensor |
Yeah |
But I didn’t have a 6 pin connector so I decided to use a 5 pin and a 2 pin |
My display also uses 5 pin |
Yeah |
Time to use 2 3 pins |
And end up sending battery voltage to my throttle? |
I’ve tested the controller and I think I know what died on it, the microcontroller |
5v rail is fine |
3.3v buck is squealing |
Hmmm you got me thinking now that maybe my old hub motor faulted because of corroded connectors |
Time to use a 4 pin and a 2 pin |
2 pin being ground and temp |
Time to be like Grin, and make up less-intuitive pinouts just to avoid this sort of thing. 4-pin for ebrake? Why not! lol |
I think the 3.3v squeal is buck is protecting itself from overcurrent with the mcu shorted |
That's only because they added a 5v line to it optionally reee |
Why is it even there |
I’m going to desolder the mcu and see if I get voltage |
Time to replace your hall sensors |
Apparently some ebrakes out there... somewhere... actually use 5v. |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.