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I've yet to encounter one.
I will assume the Xiaomi one that's variable does
Desoldering this will be hard due to my wisdom of putting hot glue nearby
It does, but I'm pretty sure the CA3 can't make sense of that variability on the ebrake line. So you'd have to go out of your way to use that brake lever, which needs slight modification just to fit on normal handlebars, just to not use its one feature.
Just play the isopropyl and plugging it into power to see if it evaporate specific places
I’ve got a CC psu hooked up to it, it trips and draws 0.02A or something
I thought it would work since you define ebrake voltages on input, so it definitely detects it and standard ebrakes basically just shut off to a set voltage
But maybe acetone would remove the hot glue
I think I used industrial strength hot glue too
Wait, where do you define ebrake voltages on input?
...*don't mind me while I start digging through the CA3 suite for the first time in a while* <_<
Standard ebrakes just short signal to ground, though.
There's nothing about it in the CA suite when my CA is disconnected. Unfortunately I'm not sure where my cable is.
Gonna go check the on-screen menus.
Active high
Active High just reverses the action. It's for normally-closed brake lever switches.
And switching to it doesn't unlock any further settings in the suite.
That's output, not input.
No that's input
It's *definitely* not.
What input device do you have with a 0.8v-0.0v range?
Right. *Out.*
Read the first one
It's 2 different settings
Give me a sec. Verifying on mine.
IIRC we're even on the same firmware
I’m going to try desoldering this with hot air, without melting the hot glue. Wish me luck
Lmao you will need it
"SETUP EBRAKE" isn't a setting, it's a category lol
Enter it, and it takes you to the ebrake settings, same as in the software suite.
It just shows you your brake output settings upfront, so you don't have to dive in to see what you've set.
There are no settings for brake in besides Active High/Low, because that's all the CA3 can work with. Proportionality is 100% throttle based.
It must be for regen
Got it off and tinned the pads for the replacement
Even sab uses it for regen the 5v
Active High/Low is just for NO vs NC ebrake switches.
The voltage range (0.8v-0.0v) is *output to the controller*.
The CA3 controls proportional regen via your throttle, only. When the ebrake signal is active, the CA3 swaps from your throttle output range to your proportional regen output range.
You can't even fully adjust the voltage output range. It's always X-0.0v. That would always be a completely unworkable voltage range for a hall sensor signal input.
hmm
```“This input has an on-board pull-up to 5V to be used with an ebrake cutoff switch. When the signal is shorted
to ground, the CA thinks that your brake levers are depressed...“```
Yes.
That's how 2-wire ebrake switches work.
Tbh I don't know how 3-wire on/off ebrake switches work. Just vaguely aware that they exist somewhere.
You can do 2 wire but the opposite way around
5v and pulled down signal
Short signal to 5v to trigger brake
Interesting. I don't think I've knowingly encountered any set up like that, but it makes sense.
hall sensors
```The 4-pin ebrake plug of the Cycle Analyst supports digital ebrake cutoff sensors.
Most sensors are 2-wire normally open switches that close when the brake levers
are pressed, though some are powered hall sensor devices and require 5V too.```]
You can have some fancy adjustable hall sensor with binary output
Would be cool if they had a pot on it so you can use a little screwdriver to adjust it rather than moving the magnet
Ok cool, I’m 100% sure the microcontroller was the fault. I’ll be replacing that and hopefully it will be as good as new
Ah right.
Yeah that dusted off some long-forgotten knowledge in my brain. I'm back onboard lol
Still not sure I've ever encountered one though. Like, lots of 3-wire ebrakes out there, including ones that are or claim to be hall sensor based, but apparently you can just ignore one of the wires and they all work fine with 2-wire setups. See that workaround a lot with Bafang-intended ebrakes repurposed for generic kits.
So I'm still not clear on what situations / hardware makes the 5v a necessary addition
Yeah shouldnt be hard to bypass it to a basic on/off
replacement microcontroller, £13 ish delivered
I'd like to get rid of the handling charge if possible
btw is it easy to replace hall sensors without dismantling the whole motor?
Depends on the motor, and your definition of "dismantling the whole motor". You do need to open the motor up, since that's where the hall sensors are.
like pulling the stator out
Oh. Probably not.
Maybe if a given motor has the hall sensors mounted to the wrong side, but IDK if I've seen that
https://youtu.be/IPnM7xWpN7g?t=90
The company I bought my motor from
Oh, sweet
the guy just pushed it out lol
maximum YEETUS
Now the fun part, putting it back in without losing a fingertip
(or smashing the shit outta the windings)
and where do I get the insulation for the hall sensor legs?
Also, I feel like I would use a glue not best known for releasing with mild heat.
No idea honestly.
any recommendations?
_thinks..._
Prob just nothing, or your never getting them out again.
I feel like those leads are never gonna bend and the slots are prob tight fitting enough..
guess I'll have to see
High temp epoxy would be an option but yea, good luck ever getting them out again
might be a problem getting the old ones out
maybe zipties are a good idea
Looks like he just pulled the old sensors out.
Zipties would be a good idea, I assumed those boards would have 2 screws
Nylon is pretty high temp. (268c melting point)
(Another website gives 190–350 °C)
Still way better then most common plastics.
(zip ties are all nylon, AFAIK)
Hence why zip ties rule.
I can 3D print nylon too
Ok nylon filament isn’t as good
still seems to be good to 180c?
Prob a type of nylon designed to melt at lower temps so that printers don't barf at getting up to temp üôÇ
Ah yes, I love seeing these
Rest in pieces poor cell
Poor guy was getting amp dumped on by a little 10awg wire from UPP