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I'm sure there is probably one they would work
I know eh ... Lol
The side of it or the behind part?
The legs would touch the ground
It didn't pivot in place for enough, angled downward
But there is probably ones made for this kinda bike out there somewhere
In off-roading imo the bicycle drivetrain is the biggest weak point
I usually don't use kickstand anyways
Wind pushed it over too much
Yup for sure
Went thru a lot of chains and sprockets
I'm having a problem now
With my hub bike
The bottom brsckt
Bracket
A bit of play , and the lockring won't screw in all the ways
Things wear out :/
I think this frame is about 8ys old
There is a bb made with like car bearings, should last forever
It increases your q factor tho
Interesting
Probably not for fatbikes thon
Gotta sleep man, was fun talking, cya
U too night
Managed to convert a 190mm wheel to 170by taking out that nut just before the cone
On the axle
U mean the locknut... That's kinda needed
^^ kinda.. 100% needed.
Or your gonna be changing bearing preload every time you install/remove the wheel
I've seen wheels with extra nuts for spacing tho
No.... Those are locknut for the cup and cones. Is there's a wheels or couple setup with d screws nuts for spacing? Sure. But the chances that any wheel is one of those is very low
Yea they may look like extra nuts, but that is only because the top of the cone is also a nut
Don't plan on taking off the wheel much unless I get a flat . Plus it beats waiting a month for a new one .
But when I tried to put the trailer hitch on today , the freaking butter nut threads stripped out on the darn axle
Any way to make em stronger
Or fix em
Yeh I know it was for to keep the bearings seated properly. But , it sucks not being able to ride my darn bike üòî
There's also an actual spacer that slips over the axle
@Black Moons think it's possible to use my old bafang motors connectors?
I can just use some of that silicone fusion tape
And plus this connectors will house all the darn wires
Sure but why cut it off the motor when you could buy those for like $20 or something (just get a higo extension cable and cut it in the middle, BAMB you got both ends)
@mhatayas also make sure your using a connector rated for the current your new controller sends out
Thanks again I'm looking it up right now
@Black Moons , I have a bafang harness cable as well. Makes me wonder if I can also now just add the throttle to that now . (I have an old bafang thumb throttle that no work no more , can hijack the connector from that for the other end
But the poopy part is that pesky jumper cable
Since I no no use display
Well I'm gonna use my motor connection be cause my controller burnt out (not sure if you remember the pic ) connectors basically only thing I can salvage from it .
k. just saying you can buy those motor connectors pretty cheap instead of chopping it off your motor. @mhatayas
Might have to do that anyways don't wanna chop off the connector to my display üòû
But anyways, I cleaned out the corrosion from that square connector and now it still don't work the hub just cuts in for a split second then nothing besides a loud kinda high pitch electric noise . Can't get to the corrosion in the femaile connector
It was actual extra thin nuts besides the locknut on both sides taking it from 120 to 135 or something, on an old probably factory MTB,
You really shouldn't skimp on motor connectors, possibly bad things can happen... With that said, I don't run a waterproof connector as I probably should either, but it is able to carry the power more than well enough...
What's a butter nut?
Not an actual thing , but I meant the threads strip so easy they are seemingly made out of butter
Dealing with chinesium is pita indeed
Yep, Never buy grade 3 fasteners lol
btw of your hubmotor axle stripped, you likely cross threaded it..
No , the hub motor threads seem to be a whole lot better than standard bicycle threads
I kinda wish I could get a standard axle with threads like that
Oh you stripped a regular bicycle tires axle threads?
that sounds like a blessing in disguise... if the axle was that poorly hardened, it might have snapped/stripped in use.. Or stripped the next time you changed a flat while riding.
Wouldn't poorly hardened axle be less prone to snappeding
Mee too, let's start a bicycle company that builds bikes with tractor engineering
120kg pushbike, here I come
actually bent those axles a number of times
Never had one snap thankful
Anyone know how I would get a cassette splines setup out of a thru axle hub
To replace it
Yeh they are just very shitty especially for fatbikes that generally need more torque especially with a mid drive motor and trailer hitch .
Luckily I got a thru axle hub ordered now to get rid of that garbage for once and for all
Will it work on a drop out frame?
Me, too, basically all of the, also never snapped one, also never striped one, yet
Would've been really cool to have thicker axles, or just better designed wheels, I'm almost sure that is the bearing was right next to the dropout, basically no one would bend the regular axle
over hardened is still poorly hardened x3
Yes because I have a 12 to 20mm custom axle on the way . A seller on eBay makes them
12mm to 10mm*
Which motor again?
I find that confusing,
So you need 12mm to fit drop out and 10 to use existing wheel?
12mm fits the hole in the hub , 10mm fits the dropout
Hubmotor? or through axle or something?
Through axle
Ah... how does the 12mm fit through the 10mm hole in the dropout then..
There's a guy on eBay who makes custom axles to fit standard bicycle dropouts
Oh, neat.
12mm hole in hub, 10mm on each end to fit the dropouts
Yea I was assuming you where also putting it in a through axle bike and was like 'but hows the axle gonna get through..'
open ended dropouts would work
Can't really find em anywhere else , I bought like 4 off this guy over the years
Also makes them custom lengths
Neat.
The threads. If you wanted to put pegs and hitches etc
No motor. Its a custom axle for any bike wheel whose hub accepts a 12mm thru axle , but incompatible with standard bicycle dropouts. Example the 12mm thru axle is too big to fit in standard bicycle dropouts, so therefore these custom thru axles are 12mm spanning the length of the hub , but on the ends where the dropouts for, they are scaled down to 10mm to fit.
These custom axles make higher end thru axle hubs compatible with lower end standard dropout bikes
Oh, I misapprehended you
My mistake
I run a bbshd with mine
I'm just bad at explaining things a lot
Speaking of my bbshd ....