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I'm having error code 08 now |
Can moisture screw up the hall board ? |
Tried unplug and replugg connectors. And even hall board connectors in motor,Nothing worked . Will try new cable harness tomorrow. If they don't work should I just install a new hall board |
Funny thing is , the throttle pulled amps from the battery, and heard a high pitched electric noise when doing so . And before that motor would kick in for a split second. Now nothing. This is the same problem I've had with my previous bbshd and I haven't been able to quite fix it yet |
I'm just looking for diagnosis and suggestions on fixing problem |
The motor was working fine yesterday, but I left my bike laying down on the grass and I think heavy frost may have been the cause |
Can the frost permanently damage a hall board like that? |
Any way to save the darn thing |
Guess all I can do at this point is try to professionally do a job as an amateur |
And probably, miserably, fail üò¶ |
While keeping expectations high |
Damn it sux wit no bike |
@Aramož and these are solid, not hollow, right? And you still bend them, right? Not doing anything extreme? |
Don't you also have a hub motor bike? |
How did your previous bbshd end up? |
Yep , solid axle , it bent due to a friend standing on pegs and putting all his weight |
Yes I have a hub motor, 1500w and a bbshd and the bbshd error code 8 hall sensor fault . Got a replacement gonna do my best to try to fix it somehow |
The hub motor is also faulting because of corroded connectors |
Gonna swap them for my busted bbshd controller wires |
The hub motor bike having some connector problems I think. If not that it's controller |
And that is why only BMX with 14mm(?) axles are supposed to have pegs] |
Yes correct |
I honestly don't understand why they wouldn't just make fatbike and a lot of mtb like that too |
Ikr, they just want us broke, and driving cars, how you can get a whole drivable car for like 300€(lately 500€+) is so insane |
Car brake rotor, that would on a bicycle last 10; lifetimes costs like same as performance bike brake rotor |
Yeah it's insane. People are teasing me about my bike always broke down and spending so much money on bike parts . It's pretty nuts and there is so much cars around that you can theoretically get one for free that needs a bit of work |
"Free car, Mechanic told me it would be $2500 to replace the headgasket so it stops burning coolant and blowing more codes then a EA programmer in crunch time" |
I wonder if you could DIY for a fraction of the price |
@mhatayas Sure, its $250 for the head gasket and $2250 in labor, at $120 per hour for a trained mechanic to get at the head gasket and put everything on you engine back where it came from. |
I mean, yes but a head gasket is one of the more difficult repairs |
But also major reason ppl wanna dump Cars. |
Yea if it was an easy repair they would have paid for it |
what car and where |
that was a joke |
ah |
https://tenor.com/view/joke-missed-over-my-head-gif-26041934 |
Pannier rack mounting bracket broke on the last bump in my driveway as I got home. Temp fix until I get back to the shop. |
"sir these are structural wires" |
Wait, am I seeing this right, that you're using a 3 or 4-point rack on a full-suspension bike? |
If so, that breakage was inevitable |
Nah, the rust is what got it. I can also see that this crack was here a long time in the metal, but I couldn't see through the rubber ya see. It's been like this, albeit with much less weight, for a long time. Also, the rear suspension hardly moves. Super duper short spring. |
Yes, its a terrible idea to run a pannier rack like this, especially with a 17.5ah battery mounted to it. |
And a heavy lock |
And a spare tube, tire, metal water canteen, and... well I guess I'm just insane heh |
Still, even with only a little movement, failures with this style of rack *will* happen, because you're essentially attempting to lock out your suspension using your rack. |
^ |
^ |
^ |
Is it a spring or just rubber? |
Pretty sure that style is just a chunk of rubber lol |
Neither. It's a chunk of metal covered in rubber. |
Oops, I Did It Again |
lol... Yea, apparently andersons are not a replacement for MT60's |
time to learn how to solder NCC üòõ |
.. Or buy bigger andersons |
https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/resources/PowerPoleResourcesPage.html |
I don't even have a crimper for bigger Andersons. lol |
But yeah, definitely seems like learn-to-solder time. |
*It's almost like I was told repeatedly that this would happen.* lol |
also lol at how the next size up is literally 2x as big |
Way back around the time of my first ebike, I got my hands on a few PP75's. I don't remember why, or why I didn't end up using them. |
I should probably grab those MT60 pigtails that were linked on here a bit ago. |
My struggles last time were with soldering to that connector, more than with soldering in general. I think. |
And my motor could use a bit more wire length at this point, given that it's been trimmed down twice now. <_< |
Where did you have this connector? |
The middle connector has lost half its cooling capability from being clipped next to the other 2 connectors |
And I’m guessing where it was installed played a big factor |
Likely - it was resting along the chainstay, but covered for rain protection. |
96 phase amps was likely the main problem regardless. lol |
Not the first time I've done this. |
Did you have it ziptied against the chainstay? |
Because that will help conduct heat away from it |
More or less, yeah. Just with an old inner tube wrapped around it (wrapping it to the chainstay), which likely blocked most/all of the airflow. |
Do you know amass now have crimp 3 phase connectors? |
I did not |
A successor to MR60 |
They look good |
Interesting! |
Don't have time to dig into it right this minute, have to get to work, but I'll check out that connector later. |
You figure it's more robust than Anderson PP45's? I noticed these are only rated for 30-50A, though, granted, the MT60 seems about the same in that regard, and it's what Grin recommends for my situation. |
They can handle 120*C instead of just 105\*C |
That doesn't honestly tell me much |
Your motor probably uses very thin phase wires |
There isn’t much a connector can do when you have undersized wire |
The wire is emitting heat and reaching high temperatures, the connector has to be at a similar temperature |
There’s contact resistance which comes in to play but if the wire is already very hot it’s the bigger factor |
They’re probably ptfe insulated wires so can handle very high temps (250c rated) |
That’s why your connector is the first thing to melt |
This connector being rated at 120c should take longer to melt. It would be even better if you heatsinked the connector somehow so it could transfer the heat to your frame rather than letting it melt |
At that point I'd just use bullets |
That looks like a nice connector |
I feel so stupid running 8mm bullets on stock motor cables, but it works lol |
I'm still dreaming of the day when I will replace the axle, side plates and bearings, to be able to run thicker wires, probably never gonna happen |
Are there any pinching torque arms yet? I don't wanna spend on the common designs as IMO they really aren't sufficient for big power and regen |
check grin's site |
they have some new ones |
The new Grin V7, specifically, might be what you're looking for. |
At least if your axle is 12mm. |
I think it's 14 |
Might be wrong |
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