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You can still ride without gearing |
Wawa .w. |
Broken phase connection or something with halls, and jeez those connections, should really crimp/&solder, it might be your doing that did the controller.... |
Turned out to be I connected the throttle to the wrong connection |
Connected it to headlight |
ü§î |
Was pressing throttle wondering why TF isn't this working |
So then when was about to give up , noticed headlight connector is exactly the same |
So switched them over and voila |
Ah AKJesus |
fun |
Please tell me they ripped him a new one? |
i think this is a poor sod who bought this from someone as a converted prebuilt, zero torque arms and when asked he says he doesn't know what that is |
RIP |
Looks like a cheap or older fork anyhow |
Probably has some contaminated aluminum |
1000w hub on a front fork is.. ballsy |
Oh it’s a front fork |
1000w… |
https://tenor.com/view/dbz-abridge-frieza-stupid-gif-7338709 |
I can picture the CAD stress model... |
I saw on reddit |
This guy bought it as a kit off......aliexpress. |
Just another example of why buying entire kits off there are dumb. |
And also front wheel drive in any capacity, particularly as front forks are often some composition of brittle metal that will shatter rather than bend |
He'll never get a refund either way, sellers will know sending it back will cost him more then the refund is worth, so theyll demand he sends it back to get him to bugger off |
Kits off aliexpress are fine. Torque arms and batteries? Not so much... |
Electrics and motor kits are perfectly fine |
Hell I've been using mine for almost 3,000km now |
and so have many others here with little to no failure |
*unlike* AliExpress batteries and torque arms |
Those have a hilariously high incidence of fault |
(When we say kits, we mean controller+motor without battery) |
By kits i really meant the entire bike, frame, electrics, the lot. |
Id not trust those. The motors though not to bad |
The frames can definitely be sketch |
the electrics and motor are usually good |
the batteries are always terrible |
and torque arms are also terrible |
That's a pre-built lol |
yeah to be clear that is a prebuilt but those alibaba people just built it onto a standard bike frame |
Broke speed sensor while playing around with the derailleur (got spooled around the bb shaft). Should’ve tied it down already, but I guess a bit of dodgy soldering and some epoxy resin will the job. |
not putting your speed sensor on the opposite side so it has nothing to catch on in any event of failure üëÄ |
Bike was stationary and cable wasn’t on the chain side. |
It’s just that I didn’t installed and tied it down. And didn’t noticed that it was stuck in the pedal. |
...my rear schwable marathon with just 1000km on it... |
Big slice with a schard of glass |
RIP |
Fortunately, I had both a spare tire and tube on me, so I made it home |
No, Sadness üò¢ |
Still, doubt much else would have survived that.. even slime |
car tire maybe |
Car tire ofc |
Depends the reason schwalbe invented the eplus is to stop this scenario |
The scenario being you ran over glass at some point in time and be er checked the tyres. Then it slowly digs it's way through over time as you repeateslg drive over it |
This was a few km after hitting the glass... |
I remember a couple things exploding in my rear tire today |
Guess that was one of them |
I seen this kinda hard rubber or plastic on a wheel barrow wheel , it wouldn't be practical for a bike tho |
Not sure what it was really but cool |
Didnt know the eplus existed, thanks. Is there any difference between the regular marathons and eplus? I tried looking it up but wasnt satisfied by the answers. |
Mayeb similar to some scooter or skateboard wheels |
Marathon 3mm layer of protection |
Marathon plus 5mm layer |
Marathon eplus 5mm layer + 2mm softer layer |
The issue with default 5mm/3mm layer on ebikes is with heavier bikes and hub motors people tend to not check if they run over glass etc and the weight of them rotating digs it in through the protective layer. |
The 2mm layer they added is meant to catch this as it's a thin hard to puncture fabric |
Thanks |
Toasty chinese hub motor running 8kw |
96v |
jsut a littke |
probably doesnt even have statorade , that takes skill |
cooked the outershell without core being able to transfer heat to the casing |
Yea the enamelled copper wire left this oily residue inside of the motor because it got so hot. |
But a qs205 5t is on the way! |
Crack an egg on it |
fairly certain that motor will be toast now. |
if you cant put your hand on it, it's too hot |
Yeah, that's cooked. RIP |
It is possible to order replacement parts |
The axle wasn't wobbling when this happened btw? |
As in the bearings getting worn? |
Nah the bearings seem fine but due to the stator expanding because of the heat, the stator grinded down the top layer of the magnets |
But you see ROBOT, that grinding typically is what overheats the motor to it's death. |
And that usually happens if the bearings go bad, allowing the whole thing to wobble and therefore cause the grinding. |
Nobody designs a stator without enough thermal expansion clearance, that is design 101 |
100% trust me, your bearings are fucked or there is debris in the motor, if stator managed to rub on rotor. |
(rust on the rotor/stator can also do it) |
@ROBOT yeah as I was saying, we're pretty certain it's not thermal expansion that's to blame here. |
Yes probably but I don't feel any wobble in the bearings and spin smoothly |
if the rotor is still in there, you won't be able to feel the wobble over the magnetic pull |
Yep, thats witness marks lol. |
They could still be worn from high mileage and be pretty smooth in the bare hands. |
If you don't feel any wobble in the bearings your not feeling carefully enough lol, even new bearings have some wobble |
Ofc, that's if the wheel is off the frame. |
You'd pretty much need to pull the stator out to feel for bad bearings |
and by then, its only 1 more step to replace the bearings.. |
Or pop the seals off to add grease like I do |
that doesn't fix worn out bearings lol |
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