Datasets:
void-32
/
EV-conversation

Dataset card Data Studio Files
xet
Community
2
text
stringlengths
1
14.3k
that prevents bearings from getting worn out, if done regularly, before they ever wear out
Well yeah, didn't mean that's an option at this point heh
Funny enough I have my old tube here as well, looks like the old one popped in the exact same location this new one did
Right on the seam
Seams are weakness
Seems like it
I'm going to take it into a shop and get them to put a tube in, at least I'll know it's being done right and good quality
So yeah warning to anyone who buys a Zip, be super gentle with those tubes or get em replaced as soon as possible
Wtfff
Ree I forgot quality could be an issue
Evo, 49N, Bontrager, are quality
Yeah I think that's the case here, shit failed like it was wet cardboard
Was the stock tube straight from the manufacturer, glad I know not to trust em, also hiked up their prices a shit ton so that's highway robbery
Will write those brands down
The Evo Enduro tube is a thicker tube than usual. 49N sells the cheap standard tube.
Same with Bontrager, cheap standard tube.
But quality still
Bontrager self-sealing tubes seal small holes automatically.
Damn, Bontager doesn't have 20x4
Lots of these guys don't XwX
Tell ya what
Get some 20 x 4 from somewhere
Must have removable cores!!!
Then, buy the following:
Ohh, that’s for making it tubeless right?
U need a tubeless rim as. Well don't forget
It's a rear hub motor :/
Wanna know what it was?
The tire wasn't inflated to a high enough PSI so when the motor torqued up it pulled hard on the tube and caused it to rip
That's 100% what happened to the stock tire as well
It was not as tight as it shoulda been
Got the lug on there boss!
Hmm, not the headlight stopped working, tbh I plan on replacing it with a better one so I'm not too worried
So I was debugging my grin controller and this happened
I think something popped lol
lol. opps.
Might wanna e-mail grin about that.
Prob send you a new cable.
@THiicc in the head ^
I have not had luck with grin support üòÖ
I’m honestly done with this controller
It’s good for what it is but oh my god is it so finicky
😀 🏦💸
Yeah I just broke down and bought a awd set up
Dual 2000watt pre programmed controllers
Fuck grin dude
Nothing but problems
Grins response:
What controller is it ? Might buy it off you
it's a baserunner z9
Oh nvm
whats wrong with a baserunner?
Nothing
But I don't use those kinds battery anymore
I use bigger 30ah ones
sorry?
I'm not sure what battery size has to do with the controller?
do you mean that you need more voltage
@THiicc in the head isn't baserunner meant to go underneath one of those hailong/shark packs ???
It is designed to do that yea
But it fit perfectly in my e-bikes old controller pocket
Which you cannot possibly fit 52v 30ah in one of those cases
You can use it that way yes
You can mount it wherever you want
It’s got mounts
But id rather just get a phase runner at that point
If grins prices weren't so much id get one now
They’re nice when they work
Hence why I got a 25$ china troller
Yeah mine is throwing a code and blowing up my trrs
Which is annoying
Not good
Get on Justin for that one
“Board is fine” this is the board they sent back a month ago
I had to manually run 5v through the trrs to get it to work
It wouldn’t provide 5v to anything unless I did
It works fine if you run 5v through the trrs
But I’m guessing their connector isn’t designed to handle sustained current or something
That or something else failed
Anyways I’m done dealing with them
2am here and I ain't as hardcore as @sgasgyxdd was gonna go to sleeping now , night @@thiic
Night
@EPHIIOS @Deleted User
I once saw an image that depicted bearing wear like this. Specifically, in the case of the bearings in the steerer. You know how on some bikes the bars have a notch in the middle where they like to settle? Thats what I mean. I saw an image illustrating rly well how the bearings wear a big dimple on the center of the race and two smaller ones, equal angles from it to the side of the middle one. Ive been unable to find this image ever since and I dont remember where I saw it. The image has a bearing that's smaller but the angle is about right
Usually u get either track wear and ball wear. Track wear a groove is worn into the track where the balls roll. This leads to smooth rolling but wobble and play. Ball wear is when the balls don't roll smoothly and start to wear on one or more sides unevenly causing a flat spot on them.this leads to a notched or clicking feeling.
Yeah, and since the bars usually only rotate like 90 degrees max and mostly just in the center, the balls on bike steerers wear the same spots often?
The last is indents on the tracks due to twisting perpendicular to the track rotation. Ball bearings like the one u showed are good for load to the bearing 90 degrees to the rotation of it. In ur image it be up down etc. Once u add forces at an angle (say a bike headset) they can more easily dent and have other issues. This is why tapered bearings are better but they not only cost more but tend to be larger.
https://tenor.com/view/cat-nod-cat-nod-cat-nodding-cute-cat-gif-23793862
I've seen tons of bearings worn out yee, this is accurate.
Usually it's down to bad preload
Cones in axles wear out on the side facing down
And ppl not keeping an eye on it as the ride
Grease that has gone completely black is bad grease. Stuff goes acidic and typically will see the bearing die soon unless fresh grease is put in.
The additives in fresh grease also do wonders in extending bearing life. Zinc, calcium, etc, protect the surface of the metal.
*A cone with pitting on one side*
@Jimbo what u wanna say, potato!?!?!
i was just going to comment on good bones
bones also need calcium
Heh, it's actually for this reason. Calcium is hard stuff
The car motor with the highest mileage in the world was found to have calcium lining all the metal from the Castrol oil.