text stringlengths 1 14.3k |
|---|
with my hayes, clarks and Shimano hydros over the time ive been riding, Never had any issues what ever the weather |
All I did was swap to 180 front for less pad wear |
Bed your brakes and lean back if you only have the front |
Changes pads 2 weeks ago |
Bleed them also two weeks ago |
I think I be needing a stronger rim, this is the sight on multiple spokes |
Yeouch, yea thats a catastropic failure in the making |
Dunno if thats rim strength or overtightened spokes? Either way not a good sign, that rim is done |
Fun times when you call the shop and they are like yeah we have space on 7th of September... |
Ouch. |
Laced to a hubmotor or regular wheel? |
My dad said it looks like metal fatigue |
Enviolo transmission hub |
Crap -_-; gotta get that laced into a new wheel |
This is on my Riesse and muller charger 4 |
chain drive? |
Belt |
Ugh... Maybe see if the bike shop can get you a single speed wheel to drop in there? |
Least get you on the road again |
Or try other bike shops.. |
Shop I got it from is fucking useless |
Doh. |
But I am debating if this would make sense for a warranty claim or not. |
Overall my opinion on Riesse & Muller is dropping more and more. |
IF it was not for the government fucking me over and demanding 1200 EUR back from me suddenly I would have been ordering stuff for my DIY solution now. But well that has to wait a little longer so I need this bike to work, it is my only realitic option for getting to and from workd |
Anyhow I did toss an email to Rodi, see what they make of it as it is their rim. |
Id try to make a warranty claim. Generally they will deny/accept you before you ship it off anywhere, so worst case is generally just "nope we're not covering it" |
I will make the case with the shop for sure if I bring it there. Really should just not happen in 5000km and it only been 1000km since it was last in for a service. |
Yea. I don't think iv ever seen pics like that of a rim here. |
Not something that should happen if the person who laced it was competent. |
(could be overtightened spokes) |
But then you'd prob expect some spokes to have snapped.. |
Generally you see spokes snap from impacts/overtightening/shit spokes, rim get warped, unable to true anymore after it gets bad enough and rim is thrown out/replaced. (Or it tacos from a collision/jump) |
I never seen something like this either. I know I am tall and heavy and I have had issues with alloy spokes and rim combos just unable to hold true, but never this. |
Yea I mean, I got rid of most of my issues just by no longer climbing curbs. (still jump speedbumps lol) |
but yea, had lots of spokes snap, rim trueness issues, etc... but never ripping spokes outta the rim |
No curbs to jump for me, but some rougher roads and speedbumbs for sure and yeah I am not slowing down much if it all. I am sure most people are more gentle on their bikes, but to me it is something that has a job to do and not something I should baby cause if that is the case it is a shit bike. |
Man I love good brakes. More G's then acceleration, gotta love that last second straight line braking. |
Good breaks are a must, do not really need to go ham on them unless there is something happening, but want to have them. Corners I tend to take at speed, my pedals are both quite well scraped from hitting the tarmac üòÑ |
@wobufet supremacy#3865 |
This. |
My hydraulics are some nobrand chinese name stuff but are surprisingly good. |
If you gotta fret and baby your brakes then likely theyre shit brakes. |
Aside from basic maintenance/preventative maintenance, i dont do anything to them |
If you can't stop the thing reliably, you shouldn't start! |
I recently had to bleed/refill my rear brakes, took 15 minutes. Probably wont need to do anything else for months now |
Such a classical issue, Riese & Muller contact form is only available on their German website, so fuck it you get it in English regardless and then send you a lovely confirmation in Dutch... |
Not only are their bikes faulty, so clearly is their website. |
truly an incident |
hopefully has enough teeth left to get it out |
Hey bud |
Is it worn out? |
I know how to get that damn thing off if it's too worn out. That old style of BB loves to seize extremely hard into the aluminum frame. |
no i used a low quality socket that didn't quite go all the way. I ordered a better one now |
So, this is this bud: that's an older style BB. It's a spindle with caged ball bearings and 2 steel cups |
The steel cups when worn-out, will bend their threads down into the aluminum. |
on the non drive side it's just a standard threaded |
@Deleted User but it looks like the inner teeth which I've damaged, and the outside notches move the same thing |
so something like this |
and that's steel threads into aluminum bottom bracket threads? |
Yes |
Hmm |
Weird actually |
I dunno what kind you're dealing with |
I still recommend the C-clamp method for holding the BB tool on |
I'm dealing with a standard threaded BB |
https://tenor.com/view/cat-nod-cat-nod-cat-nodding-cute-cat-gif-23793862 |
Maybe is an aluminum cup then |
In which case, should be eqsier |
And cartridge-style |
actually maybe not standard since it's 73 length |
it's cartridge style on the non drive side, and has this extended part on the drive side |
That's still pretty standard |
Oh let's see both sides actually |
What's the drive-side look like |
The drive-side is normal-threaded, while the other side is reverse-threaded. |
ups sent nondrive side |
this is disc brake side |
the drive side is this |
Hmm hmm |
should just unthread normally clockwise with a better tool i kind of messed up with that cheap one |
That's certainly cartridge-style |
alternatively i could use something on the outside ridges |
Perhaps. For sure employ the use of a C-clamp. |
If you can, get both a splined tool for the outer spline, and a tool for the inner spine at the same time. |
And yeah,clockwise is correct |
Normally we remove the drive side first though |
ye that's what i tried to remove, i will ping you Wednesday when i have the better tool. If i fail, i take it to the shop or get the splines tool |
100% let the local bike shop handle it. |
they got the best tool, huge breaker bar and huge vise to put bike into (and/or multiple people to hold it, if needed) |
if you stip it much more, they won't be able to help |
if i strip it much more i have the backup ridges on top :think: |
also i have a bike stand and people to hold the bike so i will try first, then admit defeat and take it to shop |
breaker bar as well |
Hook wrench |
yeah i removed it easily. Standard plastic (?) cartridge, and was quite loose. There was even dirt and grit inside. I had to do some dremeling to get the mid drive in because the frame holes has ridges on them |
You could try , a hammer and tap to initially break it loose |
Not saying it won't screw up the outside tho |
O.O |
https://tenor.com/view/hammer-tools-woman-sassy-gif-19202079 |
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.