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14.3k
Winter
Lots of salt
I've had the chain and cassette for like 2 months now
Yeah, but mine doesn't look anywhere near as bad.
What lube are you using?
But the link was broken for like a week
I've been skipping the lube because I go out and I'm already on the road when I remember and I ride all day so I don't get many breaks to lube it
Get yourself some all Weather lube
Holy fuck
youre so fucking lucky, I had a link bend and get stucj in my derailleur, snapping the hangerand getting it into the spokes
Honestly, his looks GOOD
Mine is way more rusted.
That means you need to maintain your drivetrain more effectively :)
I cant be bothered, really
Its not qorth it when the winter or my mid drive destroys it anywY
I do lube it when the chain is dry or its wet outside
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0c8Dzesha6/?igshid=MjM0N2Q2NDBjYg==
1/3 venting, 1/3 *help me, god please help me*, 1/3 this is fucking hilarious.
Bought a used giant anthem with seized forks for $250 with plans for a middrive. Guy was like "I have no idea why the fork seized, I didn't do anything to it". He didn't lie. I don't think this bike saw even one day of maintenance.
Had to pull off the lowers from the stanchions with reversed pipe clamps.
The foam rings are, no exaggeration, in a liquid state. If I wipe my finger on them, they come out with the texture of grease.
Long dried mud all over the interior, air-spring, and dampers.
Seals on both dampers and airspring, had LONG since failed, and there was at least 10 ml of oil inside both the air spring, and damper sides.
And uh... I have included a picture of the oil in the tupperware. Yeah. That's oil. blackish-green stuff was in the air spring/damper. The pale white, disgusting stuff, was in the lowers.
The Rear shock just needs a CTD seal kit, and the frame is fine (Apart from having to replace the suspension bearing, but that was fairly cheap), so i still get out ahead...
but holy crap how do I save this fork? I do not have the budget for a new fork right now lol üòÑ
Oh and uh, not to mention this is my first time dealing with suspension work... i thought this would just be a fun small adventure to learn some suspension work... oh god was I wrong.
Rebuild kits for most major forks exist... But I dunno if thats gonna be enough
Sexy fork if it has oil/dampening cartridges in it though, prob worth fixing.
or at least giving it a shot
Yep it's a fox 34. Thought I was getting a steal of a deal üòõ
I do have all fox 3 rebuild kits! It's the stanchions and bushings I'm worried about the air side stanchion seems quite dead to me.
I might try some epoxy... but it's pretty bad....
Looks like someones actually selling just the stanchions
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333308551947
Dunno if that fits but yea
But yea, dunno if its worth it eithe with bushingsl ooking like that.
honestly if you roads are heavily salted you should just wipe down and relube after every ride
also the linkglide chain is kinda trash its an 11 speed chain for 10/11s its not even stronger than most
i defaulted to using an sram pc1130 and its lasting me like 20% longer at least and its cheaper aswell
That's constant under load shifting
Plus I'm using the same chain for the third month now
Regular HG chains would've started to skip by now
3k km with a derailleur that is not shifting correctly, with no washing except rain, under heavy use with a bbs02 and only using dry lube is not that bad imo.
How many miles tho
4500 km
Ish
Okay you should have changed that that chain half the distance ago
I'm changing chains monthly but I'm also doing like 2000km
Which is why I swapped to the SRAM pc1130 costs half the price and gets more range
For anyone here, just get a Parktool CC-4.
Don't bother saying ''replace it at X distance''.
Just look at wear.
I have one of those ali chain checkers, whats your experience with those?
Unreliable.
They told me my chains were stretched way earlier than usual, but the CC-4 indicated they were just fine.
it is a
LASER-CUT PIECE OF METAL
HOW DO THEY NOT FIGURE IT OUT
Alright, ill just shred my chains and toss my ali chain checker lol
Because that would require having good tools, tolerances, and engineering üòÇ
BTW, most of the cheap ones are stamped, not laser cut.
No. Just get a Parktool CC-4.
Make the investment please 🙏 🥺 🙏
it's like $16
expensive for what it is but it isn't a super expensive tool
But my chain dies in the winter regardless of what I do 🥹
Get some Silca Synerg-E then.
Wait for the winter sale, and it should be like 10-12$USD.
Dont htink I can buy this in my country, id have to import it from somewhere else in the eu which would cost a lot but ill maybe try it
üò≠
üò¶
A welder who lives just north of me said he could reinforce it. I gots some good luck it seems
OOF
Ouch.
Id consider buying a new swing arm... And maybe having him reinforce that?
also make sure its not heat treated steel..
or you really don't want to weld it
I have a spare swing arm (I'd be the only guy to just have one on hand lol) and it's already on the bike.
So I'm gonna bring the other one to the guy after vacation
He may want the shock too for welding the ears back on, if he cuts em off and replaces em
or at least, the bushing inside the shock
(or its exact size..)
kinda seems to me like the area just under the shock mount is hollow, so might be worth dremelling that area out and welding a block in or something to prevent that from happening again
and yeah I've got a calliper for measuring exact distance I suppose, would probably just mark the spot with a quick grind or something
no, the width between ears
its 100x easier just to bolt the two ears to the shock or bushing
then tack weld em on
automatic perfect alignment
(at least, to each other and width of the bushing)
I suppose so, guess the heat won't affect a bushing unlike a bearing
tack welding hardly heats up the parent metal
and you generally pull it apart before giving it the weld proper
lucky for me I have a spare shock as well. lol
spare everything
Nice
cause if I was doing that job, id just slice the ears right off, slap a plate or several thick bars on top of the swingarm and then add some fat ears back on to distribute the force
that cracking and ripping though, looks heat treated to me.
so id want to cook the entire part after welding it, and adding enough steel that it wouldn't matter anymore..
I mean... it is life critical.