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Yeah that is one of those rare things you see and go "welp i can't ride on this with that" |
but yea, some stupidly long ears would help distribute the force, vertical bars are so much stronger then horzontal |
(on that axis) |
I'll have to think it over during vacation, but yeah welding an extra plate on the top of the swingarm might work out along with new ears |
Especially welding a plate directly to that part right by the wheel which seems to be pretty thick steel |
Yea. I feel like the existing top plate is kinda badly compromised at this point |
and new ears should make it all the way to the part by the wheel |
like there is no reason for the ears not to go that far, and hell start sooner too |
oh yeah my concern was the distance being affected by more steel under it, but i guess if you get the ears closer to the wheel it would even out |
so long as they don't hit the shock at full compression |
Nah, same hole spacing, but wider ears |
but yea if you add material, you could move the ear holes back a bit |
But I mean like, instead of skinny little I ears, you want fat /--\ ears |
something like 3x the thickness I'm guessing? |
If they're too spaced then i'd get to get spacers by the bushing |
to distribute the force better into that plate, and make it all the way to the thicker plates |
not thickness, length |
oh you just mean to distribute the force over a longer ear then i guess? |
vertically short, horizontally very long, i could see that |
with a long weld |
yeah exactly, and a little shorter vertically so I can add in a full plate under it without rising it |
yea if there is room |
straight up i think the shock has like 1.5-2cm clearance so could add in a 1cm plate |
do note the shorter you make em, the more precise they need to be welded on, to properly close on the bushing when you tighten the bolt |
(hence why its pretty standard to use the bushing and bolt em in there, maybe with some card stock to add some clearance for installing/removal) |
Bolts are poor in shear, but amazing in tension, hence these setups don't ride on the bolt: they clamp the bushing and its that friction that supports the force the shock pivot puts on it |
that makes sense, a friend of mine saw it on my snapchat and said "jesus bolt?" |
bolt didn't bend because it's just clamping the ears to the shock bushing |
Yep. Its also why you can tighten the bolt properly without it seizing. Its designed to 'seize' on the bushing. |
Whenever you see someone use the bolt as the pivot itself, especially with a locnut or similar to keep a loose bolt from coming undone... that is horrible engineering |
(One exception being shoulder bolts, those are ok) |
Since its essentially just a bolt and a bushing in one. |
ah yeah I think I talked about that with you long ago, about thinking I *needed* those, but not necessarily. They just don't add any harm |
yea. Either way works. Just don't ride serious pivots on bolt threads or loose bolts üôÇ |
And bolt shanks are meh sized |
This coil is 850lb/in so it is in some serious force territory. 220mm travel distance in the shock so as far as how far the coil will compress, I'm not the shock engineer... but a significant compression would be a literal tonne of force lol |
yep. |
thats a what, 3/8" bolt? |
Diameter? Seems to be an M8 |
so about 5/16" then.. |
grade 8 is good for 5000lbs clamping load |
that'll do it lol |
M8's are often my go-to for a lot of things including foot pegs and torque washer mounting |
They're still quite small while having a shit load of force capability |
i don't think it's even possible for my coil to compress more than 3in (or up to that) |
Finding shear values for the bolt give results of everything from 800lbs to 3000lbs |
but from real life experience id say its likely closer to 800lbs |
(ie: yes tighten that bolt to recommended torque because if it gets loose it might snap) |
By shear does that mean the force acting upon friction? |
ie 800lb of "clamping" force against the ears |
No, it means 5000lbs of clamping, 800lbs of 'support' for the shock (likely in single shear, mind you..) if that clamping force comes loose. |
you have double shear (support on both sides) so that gives it more strength, but I still wouldn't trust it loose lol |
So I've got 1600lb before the bolt slides in that theory? |
You get 5000lbs * friction constant of the materials when the bolt is properly tightened |
1600lbs before it snaps if its loose. |
Damn even that surprises me that 8mm of steel (more like 7.5 with threading) can sustain that |
I mean I could be rather wrong on the shear, that was... very inconsistant from one source to another, but its definately around 5000lbs clamping |
Bolts are amazing at clamping.. The power of the inclined plane |
of course the shear limit depends how long the bolt is and how distributed the force is.. but yeah the clamping is good headroom |
I assume the 800lb shear means 0 space between the force and support |
ie, force and support stay aligned and just try to shear it like.. well, a mechanical metal shear |
Yeah cause I can bend an M8 by standing on it at a long distance lol but directly over a bolt never of course |
(more or less what you have with 2 ears supporting it and a bushing inbetween) |
my estimate is 3in compression is the most i would ever imagine in my coil which is 2550lb so the 5000lb clamping force should sustain that |
it's likelier max 2.5in compression |
The bigger problem is the threads get absolutely thrashed if it gets loose and its undersized so everything starts moving around and wearing |
(another reason why bolts are for clamping and not pivot points) |
Would be cool if electromechanical engineering was a more widespread course |
because specifically mechanical, or specifically electrical, leaves so much to be known |
I was about to start asking about a weird creak that's been starting recently. I first thought it was the nut that came loose again (I replaced it with a Lekkie one nut after the first time, but it turns out that was holding just fine). After doing a bit more research... I didn't tighten the crank arms enough it seems.... |
Narrow wide sprockets almost eliminate front chain drops |
It is a narrow wide though :Sweat_Fiend: |
Ah |
Also: If my bike currently has 180mm front 160mm rear, can I buy a brake kit that's 160mm both sides and just use the existing discs? |
check the park tool video on chain sizing, your chain might be too long |
My suspicion is that the derailleur is just not keeping up, only happens on rapid downshifts and it's a mid tail there's lots of room for the chain to bounce around if the slack isn't being kept properly. |
the difference is in the rotor + adapter (if used), so if you got a 160 kit you'd need to replace the front adapter with a 160 (if its less naturally, it might be naturally 180), or reuse the 180 rotor |
the caliper doesn't change at all, just the little $10 adapter bracket and $20+ rotor. |
That was the main question. As long as the calipers are the same I can just do whatever works best |
yep |
I believe front/rear rotors are the same too, so.. you'll have a spare 160 for the rear |
(they do wear, slowly... And get bent in crashes/parking bike/unattentive tire reinstalls) |
Look, I'm just not used to bikes having disc brakes. I don't know why you're attacking me like this! /s |
üòÅ |
lol |
At least the disks and pads are easy to replace and depending on what you get, not to pricy either, though disks can become silly in price, like stock ones be 20 and some other brands up to 80 |
@Black Moons check it out grin learned controllers based on the asi bac800 max out at 90 not 96 the same way I did |
chain guide / old derailleur |
ultra cheap compared to narrow wide |
Also, doesn't the chain need to be installed in a specific way on narrow wide? Like matching the teeth to the chain? |
If you want to upgrade, a clutched derailleur should help witj tension or any slipping on the chain |
That's probably what I'll look at next. This thing has a very long chain so it's a lot more susceptible to shocks in the system |
I think my chain drops all happened during rapid shifts too |
lol. |
Yes, but its literally impossible not to do.. it just doesn't fit the other way |
Can fix this with a rubber mallet |
Can fix a lot of things, even people with a good rubber mallet |
https://tenor.com/view/pskt-hammer-time-ban-gif-23557002 |
Set it on fire then put the fire out with a hammer. Usually works for me |
https://tenor.com/view/myth-busters-c4-explosion-when-in-doubt-gif-14612449 |
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