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14.3k
ive seen so many horror stories with the dual rear shocks
single rear shock
larger battery compartment
actual welded tube frame
with sheet metal welded for enclosing
field weakening kicks in on x1 pro at 10k rpm but is only rated for 12k
so stupid
people are getting it to almost 14k though
:FireDuck:
@EPHIIOS
Oof
Holy cracked cells batman.
Wonder why they cracked... Least they didn't burn
I'm more worried about the rust on the "nickel" @Black Moons
@Rad Not sure if rust, or cell goo. Do cell tops usally rust?
Bosch is officially on my no go list either way
@Rad I can think of much better reasons to never use bosch, but sure. lets go with that.
I mean, Bosch was already on my no-go list for entirely unrelated reasons. Too much history of proprietary locked-down nonsense.
But yeah, I'm not sure that's rust. Seems more likely it's cell goop and corrosion from that.
I also wonder if the cracked cells couldn't be from impact.
Ok the serialized parts is another reason
TBF, Im amazed it didn't go up in smoke
Like, 2 cracked cells, what?
something went *horribly* wrong in that packs life, and I don't think assembly was to blame, unless somehow their method of adding strips put immense stress on the cells?
I'm glad it didn't catch fire
Especially considering the bad cells still have voltage.
I wonder what the BMS thought of all of that.
bosch isn't known for its 'high power' either, so I kinda doubt they where discharged too quickly/overheated.
I bet they are high ESR as hell
ESR?
equivilent series resistance
Yeah that didn't clear it up
I'm just a big dummy
Cracked cell is reading 47.5mOhm in the picture, and 3.74v
Apparently 40mOhm is typical for the LG MJ1? Unless I'm misreading the datasheet.
Weird.
Cell has a big ol' crack in the side and is probably leaking goop everywhere, and it's like "Nah I'm fine."
Also, are those the balance wires?!
I guess
Ever since joining that facebook group I've had nightmares
Who... uses yellow/brown for balance wires.. and pretins the wire and hardly.. solders to the pad?
Thinking of leaving it
the brown wire shows damage to the insulation too..
There's more shit like that on there
I feel that pack is sus as hell
I can't imagine bosch doing that shit for balance wires
Yeah, it's weird how everything looks precision machine-assembled except the balance wires, which are just kinda... *there.* Like an afterthought.
Interesting that the seperators are designed for the balance wires though...
True
I wonder if it could be a rebuilt pack?... that or impact..
I mean, how do 2 cells blow?
.. crack
https://www.facebook.com/groups/diyebikes/permalink/1524431544675517/
yea that picture sums it up
And yaknow, because his fork wasn't wide enough, he just welded the back end from another bike onto the front end of that bike
https://tenor.com/view/screams-externally-oreimo-ruri-gok%C5%8D-kuroneko-screaming-gif-16851484
I'd rather be shot
I like the lack of front (rear?) brakes.
you think he could have at least left that shit on when chopping the frame but nah, its fine
Being shot is a quicker death
So my hands were getting super fatigued with throttle riding a thumb throttle. I popped it open and uh… loosened the spring a bit. Now it’s significantly easier to maintain power levels for long periods. Just… now I can accidentally wiggle the throttle into sending power. Oops
was it a universal thumb throttle
those suck fr
i almost never use them
i think for constant throttling twist is still best
Half-twist is my favorite, but I don't do much constant throttling.
Also cruise control is a thing
Don't use cruise control unless you have e-brakes setup though.
you really want the controller to know your going 'OH SHIT' and stop applying power. Especially if its a mid drive.
Even a hub motor can significantly extend your braking distance if it's fighting you. But yeah
(that said, its freaken amazing using cruise control on a mid drive on mild offroad trails, just hearing the motor get slightly louder on hills but the pitch not change at ALL)
just HILLMURDER.
ez just pratice emergency falling off
I just wish I could tell the CA that I want cruise control to set *speed* instead of power (for current-mode or torque-mode controllers). If I'm cruising at 15mph and reach a hill, I want to stay at 15mph, not at 250w or whatever.
Not a huge issue, since I do most of my cruising at the max speed cutoffs I set in the CA, but still.
@NCC1941 Interesting, I assumed that'd be the default behavior but I guess its cause I have a speed mode controller. (that or maybe Iv only tested my controllers cruise control and not C/A's
Yeah, most likely due to speed-mode controller. All the CA's cruise control does is lock the throttle output voltage.
Lame.
Wish I had enough people on my patreon that I could start work on a replacement for the C/A...
Especially since iv already done microcontroller programming, electronics, etc...
Yo what??
@NCC1941 *drools* I just had an idea.. for the most epic C/A feature ever
You know how gyros are pretty cheap now right?
those mems units your cellphones use...
Auto-off gyro controlled turn signals.
*Take my money.*
I mean, I'm broke right now. But in concept, *take my money.* lol
Hehe.
Like imagine that, turn signals that actually detect that you turned
Especially if you stick it on the handlebars, it should be able to detect even lane changes
And you could have something like a momentary center return button, and just press either direction for 1+ second for 'off' if it ever screws up
(or another button)
See if I made a C/A, id throw some power outputs on it too.
That's a you issue
For turn signals/brake light/headlight
I just have my mf switch set to toggle speeds so I can cruise at that
And it will dynamically adjust power based on throttle curve you were on when you triggered it
That's why a thumb throttle is great since you can finely select a throttle level consistently .
If I throttle at absolute minimum I can get like 150-200w CC
That is on almost no level a 'me' issue. lol