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14.3k
BAK H18650CQ 2550mAh - 10.2A
Yeah that BMS tho really should trip when you pulling more amps
Also that controller peaks over 2000W without the shunt mod
it made nearly 2000
1950 or something like that
1500w is already enough to do 30mph+
now with shunt mod it shows still 1950 peak but its way faster
I can do 35mph at 29a 1500w limit set
how you do that?
maybe iam tooo fat
I have a phaserunner and cycle analyst I have profiles with different amp and watt limits
oh great! Unfortunately, I don't even know how to edit the firmware.
Well yeah it shows 1920w but you doing more than that
I was able to edit the firmware on the xiaomi m365, but I don't know how to do this on these kt controllers
The only benefit you get out of a shunt mod is more torque and accell
controller gets boiled now , i need to add a fan
You voltage will drop harder under loads meaning less top speed
And it's cooking your controller and motor
But i like that mod its double fun as before ^^
Well there's no real benefit and you just killing your controller and motor.
my benefit is a big grin on my face when driving
next project is to build on of these bomber bikes
Shunt modding doesn't even increase top speed
but it did
It doesnt
wtf
i did nothing else
its 10 kmh faster now
Unless you are so heavy that it needs the torque to push the extra speed
I weigh 110 kilos
So 15 more than me
i think that just wasnt enough power before to reach the 500 rpm of whatever that engine really does
Me and my bike combined is 125kg
its one of these cheap chinese motors
oh that's little, the acceleration would be phenomenal with the weight üòÑ
I know the motor
does my dealer's 3000 watt kit come with the same motor? he looks exactly like this.
i got the 1500 watts kit
your weight is much better distributed
Well yeah I don't have my entire storage on the rear wheel
I use my pannier for its intended use.
yes, my bike shouldn't stand out, you shouldn't see that it's motorized
How much does your bike weigh
uff
wait
39 kilos
Cause it looks like you just put in the most amount of cells for the least amount of capacity
yes i built crap
Yeah mines 30kg
cells with little capacity because they were on offer
The battery depending on which one is 6.7kg - 7kg
ya same here but i have 2 of these
Both are same dimensions and 52v/30ah
52v nice
52v 30ah battery 6.7kg
that is a lot ya
next battery will be better
Cost me £300 in cells from nkon
i buy my cells there to
Samsung 50g 21700s
next battery gets better cells
And that little black rectangle behind the battery in the frame is my controller
so small?
It's a phaserunner it's a 36v-72v controller
With the display I can toggle max amps it draws
Most I've tried with battery is 60A
i don't know these phaserunners yet, i'm just a beginner but if they are only half the size they seem to be good ^^
Yeah I run like 3000w through it, some do 4000w+
you even have a parallelogram damper nice
what the costs of these?
eheeheh cute
üòÑ
What's that
price
You mean the suspension seatpost?
with so little cooling surface, it doesn't even seem to get hot
no the controller
That looks like an efficient piece of technology
Oh they quite pricy
I have this other damper prop that everyone has
I feared that. but looks like it would be worth it for the final built
And yeah it's an FoC controller
6 fets that are more efficient
50Amps 400€
340 euro on faster bikes for a phaserunner
It's probably the same price or less directly from getting it imported from grin directly in canada
The standard KT controller 12fet gets hot at 40A
It will take a while before I'm ready, I'm still thinking about what exactly I'll build next
yes, that's what I noticed, these kt controllers are always boiling
I have thermal throttled this controller twice
Once during a heatwave and once running it at a constant 50a with stops starts and hills
I think that happens to me on every second ride when it suddenly only shows 1400-1500 watts
But at 40A + and a shunt mod you should consider getting statorade for your hub motor
The motor by default doesn't dissipate heat properly
that was this magnetic liquid? or this cooling fan attachment?
So if the outsell feels warm/hot it's actually well over 120c+ internally
Yeah ferrofluid specifically for direct drive hub motors
my display informs me about the engine temperature, feels just lukewarm on the outside but has 100 degrees celsius yes
The fan attachment doesn't work without statorade
Because statorade makes the heat transfer to the outershell