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BAK H18650CQ 2550mAh - 10.2A |
Yeah that BMS tho really should trip when you pulling more amps |
Also that controller peaks over 2000W without the shunt mod |
it made nearly 2000 |
1950 or something like that |
1500w is already enough to do 30mph+ |
now with shunt mod it shows still 1950 peak but its way faster |
I can do 35mph at 29a 1500w limit set |
how you do that? |
maybe iam tooo fat |
I have a phaserunner and cycle analyst I have profiles with different amp and watt limits |
oh great! Unfortunately, I don't even know how to edit the firmware. |
Well yeah it shows 1920w but you doing more than that |
I was able to edit the firmware on the xiaomi m365, but I don't know how to do this on these kt controllers |
The only benefit you get out of a shunt mod is more torque and accell |
controller gets boiled now , i need to add a fan |
You voltage will drop harder under loads meaning less top speed |
And it's cooking your controller and motor |
But i like that mod its double fun as before ^^ |
Well there's no real benefit and you just killing your controller and motor. |
my benefit is a big grin on my face when driving |
next project is to build on of these bomber bikes |
Shunt modding doesn't even increase top speed |
but it did |
It doesnt |
wtf |
i did nothing else |
its 10 kmh faster now |
Unless you are so heavy that it needs the torque to push the extra speed |
I weigh 110 kilos |
So 15 more than me |
i think that just wasnt enough power before to reach the 500 rpm of whatever that engine really does |
Me and my bike combined is 125kg |
its one of these cheap chinese motors |
oh that's little, the acceleration would be phenomenal with the weight üòÑ |
I know the motor |
does my dealer's 3000 watt kit come with the same motor? he looks exactly like this. |
i got the 1500 watts kit |
your weight is much better distributed |
Well yeah I don't have my entire storage on the rear wheel |
I use my pannier for its intended use. |
yes, my bike shouldn't stand out, you shouldn't see that it's motorized |
How much does your bike weigh |
uff |
wait |
39 kilos |
Cause it looks like you just put in the most amount of cells for the least amount of capacity |
yes i built crap |
Yeah mines 30kg |
cells with little capacity because they were on offer |
The battery depending on which one is 6.7kg - 7kg |
ya same here but i have 2 of these |
Both are same dimensions and 52v/30ah |
52v nice |
52v 30ah battery 6.7kg |
that is a lot ya |
next battery will be better |
Cost me £300 in cells from nkon |
i buy my cells there to |
Samsung 50g 21700s |
next battery gets better cells |
And that little black rectangle behind the battery in the frame is my controller |
so small? |
It's a phaserunner it's a 36v-72v controller |
With the display I can toggle max amps it draws |
Most I've tried with battery is 60A |
i don't know these phaserunners yet, i'm just a beginner but if they are only half the size they seem to be good ^^ |
Yeah I run like 3000w through it, some do 4000w+ |
you even have a parallelogram damper nice |
what the costs of these? |
eheeheh cute |
üòÑ |
What's that |
price |
You mean the suspension seatpost? |
with so little cooling surface, it doesn't even seem to get hot |
no the controller |
That looks like an efficient piece of technology |
Oh they quite pricy |
I have this other damper prop that everyone has |
I feared that. but looks like it would be worth it for the final built |
And yeah it's an FoC controller |
6 fets that are more efficient |
50Amps 400€ |
340 euro on faster bikes for a phaserunner |
It's probably the same price or less directly from getting it imported from grin directly in canada |
The standard KT controller 12fet gets hot at 40A |
It will take a while before I'm ready, I'm still thinking about what exactly I'll build next |
yes, that's what I noticed, these kt controllers are always boiling |
I have thermal throttled this controller twice |
Once during a heatwave and once running it at a constant 50a with stops starts and hills |
I think that happens to me on every second ride when it suddenly only shows 1400-1500 watts |
But at 40A + and a shunt mod you should consider getting statorade for your hub motor |
The motor by default doesn't dissipate heat properly |
that was this magnetic liquid? or this cooling fan attachment? |
So if the outsell feels warm/hot it's actually well over 120c+ internally |
Yeah ferrofluid specifically for direct drive hub motors |
my display informs me about the engine temperature, feels just lukewarm on the outside but has 100 degrees celsius yes |
The fan attachment doesn't work without statorade |
Because statorade makes the heat transfer to the outershell |
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