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Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant:	kimcrwbr1 said: You need to start your own thread it is not polite to hyjack a thread it makes it confusing. Model and year help to make the responses better. Click to expand... I am very sorry to have made it confusing. Thank you Johnny for your reply I will check and let you know what happens. I did not know I was hyjacking.	kimcrwbr1 said: You need to start your own thread it is not polite to hyjack a thread it makes it confusing. Model and year help to make the responses better. Click to expand... I am very sorry to have made it confusing. Thank you Johnny for your reply I will check and let you know what happens. I did not know I was hyjacking.	This motor was not even " sold " on a site.---------But already listed elsewhere for $4900 by someone ??????
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant:	Just click on the johnson/evinrude forum and click new thread. Give the model number of the motor your working on makes it easier and you will get more responses.	Just click on the johnson/evinrude forum and click new thread. Give the model number of the motor your working on makes it easier and you will get more responses.	Remove intake silencer bolts (2), #44 in picture. Looks like these are the only 2 bolts securing carb to block.
Human: I plan on turning my refrigerator off on my houseboat this winter. We will not be using it till spring and I have always done this on my campers. We prop the door open for ventilation to prevent mold. Some of my houseboat neighbors plan on just leaving their refrigerators turned on. I feel this is unnecessary wear on the refrigerator if it is not needed. Any thoughts? Assistant:	Ayuh,.... I see no reason, what so ever to leave it runnin', other than makin' the PoCo happy billin' ya,....	Ayuh,.... I see no reason, what so ever to leave it runnin', other than makin' the PoCo happy billin' ya,....	Its a 302 engine omc stern drive.
Human: I plan on turning my refrigerator off on my houseboat this winter. We will not be using it till spring and I have always done this on my campers. We prop the door open for ventilation to prevent mold. Some of my houseboat neighbors plan on just leaving their refrigerators turned on. I feel this is unnecessary wear on the refrigerator if it is not needed. Any thoughts? Assistant:	ditto,could be a scenario for an onboard fire, I'm a volunteer fireman 30+ years,have seen an entire row of boats go up in flames from a droplight left on	ditto,could be a scenario for an onboard fire, I'm a volunteer fireman 30+ years,have seen an entire row of boats go up in flames from a droplight left on	Ok, will do. I hadn't thought of that angle. I wonder if my thirty year old converter was causing a lot of my electrolysis problems on my boat..?
Human: i have a 1960 Crestliner with a 1962 Evinrude engine with the selector shifter. I have no reverse currently. I purchased a new push button gear selector and still no reverse. I started to test power across the cables and I have power across the forward ( since this one works) but no where in the wire harness does the reverse wire have any voltage. I have traced the cable from the shifter to under the console. From there it goes back to the electical box for the boat. I am unable to tell where the wire connects to inside the electrical box. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Assistant:	Edit............ Old post.	Edit............ Old post.	kimcrwbri has the answer and I agree 100%, airboat233
Human: Hi, new to board,but have been a guest for awhile,now i have a question an knew i could get a answer here. I have a 1983 wellcraft sunhatch 196 i recently bought it needs a little love and a new engine chevy 305,while removing engine i found like 8 ford type starter solinoids all wired into harness,why so many and is it really nessesary Assistant:	Are they hooked up into trim system, Is your craft a sterndrive?	Are they hooked up into trim system, Is your craft a sterndrive?	1984-89 9.9 and 15hp should work.
Human: Hi, new to board,but have been a guest for awhile,now i have a question an knew i could get a answer here. I have a 1983 wellcraft sunhatch 196 i recently bought it needs a little love and a new engine chevy 305,while removing engine i found like 8 ford type starter solinoids all wired into harness,why so many and is it really nessesary Assistant:	yes i/o omc sterndrive,and yes looked like a couple were hooked to bennet trim tab pump	yes i/o omc sterndrive,and yes looked like a couple were hooked to bennet trim tab pump	1984-89 9.9 and 15hp should work.
Human: Hi, new to board,but have been a guest for awhile,now i have a question an knew i could get a answer here. I have a 1983 wellcraft sunhatch 196 i recently bought it needs a little love and a new engine chevy 305,while removing engine i found like 8 ford type starter solinoids all wired into harness,why so many and is it really nessesary Assistant:	FWIW, in addition to the trim functions, most marine engines use a slave solenoid to excite the starter. This eliminates any issues with voltage drops in long harnesses going to the helm....	FWIW, in addition to the trim functions, most marine engines use a slave solenoid to excite the starter. This eliminates any issues with voltage drops in long harnesses going to the helm....	" COM" or common on a switch refers to switch terminal technology, where you have normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) terminals which indicate electrical conductivity depending on switch position, where the COM (C) is the connection point that is "common" depending on switch position to both the NO and NC contact circuits. Mechanically, it is the "swinger" between NC and NO.
Human: Hi, new to board,but have been a guest for awhile,now i have a question an knew i could get a answer here. I have a 1983 wellcraft sunhatch 196 i recently bought it needs a little love and a new engine chevy 305,while removing engine i found like 8 ford type starter solinoids all wired into harness,why so many and is it really nessesary Assistant:	All those solenoids are put there for a reason. You'll have to figure out exactly what they're for.	All those solenoids are put there for a reason. You'll have to figure out exactly what they're for.	PBRMAN said: I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. Click to expand... Yes that is correct my horn is not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and it is keeping up with consumption. However my oil low level light is on warning me of such thing but it has always been like this even when it was running great. The problem just happened out of the blue while I was on a plane about an hour On my way! To my destination and just suddenly bogged down and would not exceed the 1800 rpm.
Human: Hi, new to board,but have been a guest for awhile,now i have a question an knew i could get a answer here. I have a 1983 wellcraft sunhatch 196 i recently bought it needs a little love and a new engine chevy 305,while removing engine i found like 8 ford type starter solinoids all wired into harness,why so many and is it really nessesary Assistant:	Thanks for all the responces just got my manual	Thanks for all the responces just got my manual	You could replace them with right angle fittings.
Human: I have a 59 Johnson fat 50 model v4s-11. the wire the comes off the magneto down to the distributor then into the harness. Should this wire have 12v going to it when key on? Dont seem to to have a spark, and just trying to get a better understanding of this system before I get messing with it much. Assistant:	Disconnect the wire at the distributor and you should have spark on all four plug wires. To kill the motor you short that wire to engine ground. If you applied battery pos to the distributor you need to get a new coil in the driver assy. May as well replace the two sets of points and condenser. There are two M terminals on the ignition switch one goes to ground and the other goes to the magneto.	Disconnect the wire at the distributor and you should have spark on all four plug wires. To kill the motor you short that wire to engine ground. If you applied battery pos to the distributor you need to get a new coil in the driver assy. May as well replace the two sets of points and condenser. There are two M terminals on the ignition switch one goes to ground and the other goes to the magneto.	use tc-w3..i prefer a brand name..with the price of new motors and the cost of parts and labor and with ethanol i used a gas treatment year round...in fact i use both a cleaner and a treatment available at your local dealer...a bottle of each will cost around 20 bucks but they will last you a year with a 20 hp...
Human: I have a 59 Johnson fat 50 model v4s-11. the wire the comes off the magneto down to the distributor then into the harness. Should this wire have 12v going to it when key on? Dont seem to to have a spark, and just trying to get a better understanding of this system before I get messing with it much. Assistant:	Nope didn't apply 12v to the magneto, just wondered if it should have 12v to it. so to eliminate a bad switch unhook the wire and try it? if still no spark, that would mean timing issue or bad magneto, coil? All those can be tested with a ohm meter correct? If so what should the readings be?	Nope didn't apply 12v to the magneto, just wondered if it should have 12v to it. so to eliminate a bad switch unhook the wire and try it? if still no spark, that would mean timing issue or bad magneto, coil? All those can be tested with a ohm meter correct? If so what should the readings be?	Plug wires are tough but they can fail can you borrow a wire from another cylinder for a test? It doesn't have to fit properly just let the spark jump to the block.
Human: I have a 59 Johnson fat 50 model v4s-11. the wire the comes off the magneto down to the distributor then into the harness. Should this wire have 12v going to it when key on? Dont seem to to have a spark, and just trying to get a better understanding of this system before I get messing with it much. Assistant:	Clean and adjust the points first. Use rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the feeler guage and points. Sometimes a bad condenser will cause a no start condition. If you know the points and condenser are good and you still get a no spark condition the coil is likely the suspect. A ohms test of the coil can be deceiving if it a internal short no real way other than a spark gap test with a open air spark gap tester. There can also be a internal crack in the cap or rotor diverting the spark from the plug wires. Start with the cheap parts points and condenser first you may need to sell your first born for a new coil, cap or rotor. Never apply battery + to the magneto for even a split second.	Clean and adjust the points first. Use rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean the feeler guage and points. Sometimes a bad condenser will cause a no start condition. If you know the points and condenser are good and you still get a no spark condition the coil is likely the suspect. A ohms test of the coil can be deceiving if it a internal short no real way other than a spark gap test with a open air spark gap tester. There can also be a internal crack in the cap or rotor diverting the spark from the plug wires. Start with the cheap parts points and condenser first you may need to sell your first born for a new coil, cap or rotor. Never apply battery + to the magneto for even a split second.	Got pics? Grind or coarse sand it down to raw fiberglass. Bondo makes a good filler in the green can. Clean the area good with acetone just prior to applying the patch. Mix a small cup of regular resin at the same time mix up the patch and with a chipping brush tack coat the area to patch and quickly apply the patch mix and build up past the lines of the boat. Let it cure until solid but before it fully cures use a flat rasp to knock down the high spots and get the shape close without cutting too deep. Were you planning on coating the bottom or just the patch? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAND-SURFOR...791121?hash=item3a5a761491:g:3oMAAOxy-j9STQyj You can get the smaller palm rasp at most any home depot/hardware store and dont plug up just work it slowly after the resin gets hard to the fingernail. Temp and amount of catalist are factors on curing time. If you find it is taking a long time to cure get a rag wet with acetone and wipe it lightly a few times and the resin will finish curing. Let it finish curing at least 24 hrs before finish sanding and then overcoat.
Human: I have a 59 Johnson fat 50 model v4s-11. the wire the comes off the magneto down to the distributor then into the harness. Should this wire have 12v going to it when key on? Dont seem to to have a spark, and just trying to get a better understanding of this system before I get messing with it much. Assistant:	Those mags were known to have bad rotors shorting to ground.	Those mags were known to have bad rotors shorting to ground.	https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...791ED3434E0FF38C877C791ED3434E0F&&FORM=VDRVRV
Human: I have my pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS boat. I need my livewell to work for a tournament next month. It has just a single pump that both pumps water and circulates it. I didn't know this exist? Lol anyway only the power switch and the bilge pump work now, none of the other wires have power, and the switches are bad. And all the fuses are good, is this just the corrosion on the wire connection to the panel? I've got a new fuse block and marine wire etc coming. But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Assistant:	But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Could be, 'n probably is,.... Get yerself a test light to trace the circuit for the new board,...	But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Click to expand... Ayuh,.... Could be, 'n probably is,.... Get yerself a test light to trace the circuit for the new board,...	Just to add. Went and check primer bulb again now and its still pretty firm from pumping about 2hrs ago, which suggests no leaks
Human: I have my pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS boat. I need my livewell to work for a tournament next month. It has just a single pump that both pumps water and circulates it. I didn't know this exist? Lol anyway only the power switch and the bilge pump work now, none of the other wires have power, and the switches are bad. And all the fuses are good, is this just the corrosion on the wire connection to the panel? I've got a new fuse block and marine wire etc coming. But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Assistant:	I am assuming he when you say fuse block is because you have barrel style fuses, if he is the case they are notorious for going bad specially on a marine environment, take all fuses out, use a wire brush on the block till it is shining, clean all the ends of the barrel reinsert them make sure that everything is working and apply a generous coat of anti-corrosion spray.	I am assuming he when you say fuse block is because you have barrel style fuses, if he is the case they are notorious for going bad specially on a marine environment, take all fuses out, use a wire brush on the block till it is shining, clean all the ends of the barrel reinsert them make sure that everything is working and apply a generous coat of anti-corrosion spray.	Ayuh,..... By-pass that valve, 'n see if it'll run,.....
Human: I have my pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS boat. I need my livewell to work for a tournament next month. It has just a single pump that both pumps water and circulates it. I didn't know this exist? Lol anyway only the power switch and the bilge pump work now, none of the other wires have power, and the switches are bad. And all the fuses are good, is this just the corrosion on the wire connection to the panel? I've got a new fuse block and marine wire etc coming. But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Assistant:	Thanks for the input! I got everything re wired with a new fuse block, new fuses, new wires, heat shrink connectors, etc! Sadly enough my livewell still doesn't work, the only accessory I was trying to get to work!! Now I guess I have to drain and drop the gas tank to see if it needs replacing or if the wires just pulled apart	Thanks for the input! I got everything re wired with a new fuse block, new fuses, new wires, heat shrink connectors, etc! Sadly enough my livewell still doesn't work, the only accessory I was trying to get to work!! Now I guess I have to drain and drop the gas tank to see if it needs replacing or if the wires just pulled apart	Ayuh,.... This should be asked in the OMC Outboard forum, not here,...
Human: I have my pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS boat. I need my livewell to work for a tournament next month. It has just a single pump that both pumps water and circulates it. I didn't know this exist? Lol anyway only the power switch and the bilge pump work now, none of the other wires have power, and the switches are bad. And all the fuses are good, is this just the corrosion on the wire connection to the panel? I've got a new fuse block and marine wire etc coming. But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Assistant:	tow thing, first, jump the livewell with 12 v to see if the pump works, or rewire the livewell from dash to pump with new wire.	tow thing, first, jump the livewell with 12 v to see if the pump works, or rewire the livewell from dash to pump with new wire.	please image of fiberglass coving aluimin I'm now thinking of packing under DP w floation Sinces it is already very sturdie curious if I can get away using I JB cold weld glue to smooth over inbetween plate and tube and probablley glue where I bend over the triangles? I should have mensioned that I'm installing the natic planner plates so hoppefulley I will get to run WOT at over 53Knt.s 　 currentely she's a tad unstable at high speed.
Human: I have my pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS boat. I need my livewell to work for a tournament next month. It has just a single pump that both pumps water and circulates it. I didn't know this exist? Lol anyway only the power switch and the bilge pump work now, none of the other wires have power, and the switches are bad. And all the fuses are good, is this just the corrosion on the wire connection to the panel? I've got a new fuse block and marine wire etc coming. But would the corrosion on this original fuse block be the culprit? Assistant:	The wiring has power, I checked it, and when it was connected to the wiring from the dash, it had power. The pump simply does not run.	The wiring has power, I checked it, and when it was connected to the wiring from the dash, it had power. The pump simply does not run.	Toasted, brother. Maybe look for a used powerhead. If not, there is a beautiful little Suzuki 4 hp 4 stroke on eBay out in Pennsylvania for 900. You could still get a couple hundred for parts out of your old motor too.
Human: [FONT=&quot]Hi All[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong section.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]I have a Sealine 190, basics are, it wouldn't start, so we replaced the Alternator, cap, rotor arm still no spark, turned over ok, but no spark.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Got it down to the ignition coil and then to the 8 terminal module, it's this that we need to replace, but i have had more luck finding Lord Lucan, one appeared in the US but that has gone, so my question to you all, we want to bypass the module and stick an electronic ignition conversion kit, but how the hell do i know what one to buy, the engine is an AQ171C 2.3L Petrol[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]If anyone has any info, i would be eternally grateful for some, this has been an arduous last 3 months.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Thank you.[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT] Assistant:	I'd suggest reposting in the Volvo Penta area of the Gas Inboards section of the forum...there's lots of knowledgeable individuals there...Id suspect the 4 cylinder GM EST distributor may work...depends on the block used...	I'd suggest reposting in the Volvo Penta area of the Gas Inboards section of the forum...there's lots of knowledgeable individuals there...Id suspect the 4 cylinder GM EST distributor may work...depends on the block used...	I would suggest a factory service manual for that model.
Human: I have my uncle and pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS. Very little wiring actually works. I need to get livewell working for tournament next month so I'm trying to completely redo all the wiring.The power switch works, and the bilge works. That's it. No other wire or switch works. They are all just hanging there connected to nothing. I have no clue what wire goes to what accessory. Nor with the correct amps. I have new wires, connectors, and waiting on a new fuse block to arrive. The boats wiring is fairly standard color code wise, but I'm not sure on a couple. I have a light gray wire, a dark gray wire, and a brown wire still hanging. There's one brown wire that appears to be the bilge since it works. I also have a white one, but it's for the horn. My uncle told me that a few years ago, he had a completely new setup with the livewell, where it was just one pump that both pumps water and aerates it. Do those even exist? Never heard of a single pump that does both jobs in one! But I didn't know what amp fuse to use for the Livewell, or this other light gray wire. Help!! Assistant:	https://instagram.com/p/BKhQXgRAs70/ oh and also, I was just gonna run the old power switch to the new block, but look at the pic from the link, why is there a red wire that runs to both left and right side of the panel? Is that for the master power switch? Does it have to be wired that way?	https://instagram.com/p/BKhQXgRAs70/ oh and also, I was just gonna run the old power switch to the new block, but look at the pic from the link, why is there a red wire that runs to both left and right side of the panel? Is that for the master power switch? Does it have to be wired that way?	The tachometer is usually connected via a fused harness to the key switch. For power, ground and the tachometer signal itself. Then another harness is used that connects the tachometer to the motor for the trim information, low oil pressure information and over temperature information. Look at the back of the tachometer. Is everything connected or not?
Human: I have my uncle and pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS. Very little wiring actually works. I need to get livewell working for tournament next month so I'm trying to completely redo all the wiring.The power switch works, and the bilge works. That's it. No other wire or switch works. They are all just hanging there connected to nothing. I have no clue what wire goes to what accessory. Nor with the correct amps. I have new wires, connectors, and waiting on a new fuse block to arrive. The boats wiring is fairly standard color code wise, but I'm not sure on a couple. I have a light gray wire, a dark gray wire, and a brown wire still hanging. There's one brown wire that appears to be the bilge since it works. I also have a white one, but it's for the horn. My uncle told me that a few years ago, he had a completely new setup with the livewell, where it was just one pump that both pumps water and aerates it. Do those even exist? Never heard of a single pump that does both jobs in one! But I didn't know what amp fuse to use for the Livewell, or this other light gray wire. Help!! Assistant:	If you're asking about the short 'red loop', I'd suspect it is the B+ feed from the larger gauge wire to the 'other' half of the block. If you are going to redo the whole thing, get Marine Grade components....and use the double wall heat shrink....as far as the color code goes, the AB&YC standard is available from a www search....just be forewarned that not every boat builder follows every recommendation. Finally, most people only pay attention to the "positive side" of their wiring - the ground side is just as important....electricity need a complete circuit to flow and the best ones have solid connections and adequately sized wire (little voltage drop)...done right, it should last 2-3 decades; done poorly, you'll be lucky to get past two seasons...	If you're asking about the short 'red loop', I'd suspect it is the B+ feed from the larger gauge wire to the 'other' half of the block. If you are going to redo the whole thing, get Marine Grade components....and use the double wall heat shrink....as far as the color code goes, the AB&YC standard is available from a www search....just be forewarned that not every boat builder follows every recommendation. Finally, most people only pay attention to the "positive side" of their wiring - the ground side is just as important....electricity need a complete circuit to flow and the best ones have solid connections and adequately sized wire (little voltage drop)...done right, it should last 2-3 decades; done poorly, you'll be lucky to get past two seasons...	Awesome! Got them to go through! So the zoomed in photo shows where it came off. It's more on the bottom of the engine, not the top where the finally connection is made to rotate the fuel flow lever (sorry I don't know proper terms). Looking at your drawing, 6 and 7 look more at the top where it didn't disconnect. The bottom connection is where it came off and can't go any further, it runs into the gray stopper. I guess if it is the levers, the one on top would have had to have shifted or something but it looks like it's going as far as it can go. That's why I don't believe we fixed it improperly and maybe something else is going on like fuel flow. Btw, typically if I haven't driven it in a couple weeks I need to get starter fluid out to get it to start.
Human: I have my uncle and pawpaws 97 sprint 277 FS. Very little wiring actually works. I need to get livewell working for tournament next month so I'm trying to completely redo all the wiring.The power switch works, and the bilge works. That's it. No other wire or switch works. They are all just hanging there connected to nothing. I have no clue what wire goes to what accessory. Nor with the correct amps. I have new wires, connectors, and waiting on a new fuse block to arrive. The boats wiring is fairly standard color code wise, but I'm not sure on a couple. I have a light gray wire, a dark gray wire, and a brown wire still hanging. There's one brown wire that appears to be the bilge since it works. I also have a white one, but it's for the horn. My uncle told me that a few years ago, he had a completely new setup with the livewell, where it was just one pump that both pumps water and aerates it. Do those even exist? Never heard of a single pump that does both jobs in one! But I didn't know what amp fuse to use for the Livewell, or this other light gray wire. Help!! Assistant:	Bigger is better in wiring!	Bigger is better in wiring!	I tried to check it with a borrowed multi-meter (that I'm not 100% sure how to use) and the numbers kept fluctuationg from about 13.5 volts to 18. It has enough juice to easily crank the motor, etc. I also made some jumper wires, and ran the postive to the blue and negative terminal to the green wires taken off the relay. I think this should raise the motor. Doesn't work. Also tried negative to blue and positive to green to lower, nothing happens. Wonder if the electric motor just suddenly died? Previously it would work when warm out, but when below 40 or so it won't work. Won't be above 40* here till probably May (gotta love Montana). Lastly, I thought with the hydraulic bypass screw all the way in, the motor would stay up (like a floor jack). But, it easily just falls back down.
Human: Hey threre everyone first time on here but was hoping to answer my question. I have a 1996 evinrude that shuts down once it's gotten to normal operating temp...when it Shuts down ithas no spark on all three cylinders. Wait 5-10 mins and will start up. Coils look mint and no visual damage on any electrical components including connection. Does this sound like stator or Cdi. I've had to replace both once before about 6 years ago. Thanks Also runs great before shuts down. Assistant:	Post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum by going to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to Johnson/Evinrude.	Post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum by going to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to Johnson/Evinrude.	I would run the S/N of the motor and then go to a parts guide and find the part number to find the right carb. Cant go by the numbers on the carb itself.
Human: Hey threre everyone first time on here but was hoping to answer my question. I have a 1996 evinrude that shuts down once it's gotten to normal operating temp...when it Shuts down ithas no spark on all three cylinders. Wait 5-10 mins and will start up. Coils look mint and no visual damage on any electrical components including connection. Does this sound like stator or Cdi. I've had to replace both once before about 6 years ago. Thanks Also runs great before shuts down. Assistant:	Thanks chawk. I realized that yesterday and I posted it there to. Thanks for the help. This site is really good. Thanks everyone.	Thanks chawk. I realized that yesterday and I posted it there to. Thanks for the help. This site is really good. Thanks everyone.	The "output" of an MBSS (main battery selector switch) is the "common" terminal. The #1 and #2 terminals are "source" connections. Use the #1 and #2 as though they are direct battery connections....... I.E., charger connections, bilge pump float switch power, etc. Most use a dedicated starting battery on #1 and multiple Deep Cycle batteries on #2. Avoid using ALL/BOTH! Keep the #1 in reserve when on the hook!
Human: Hey threre everyone first time on here but was hoping to answer my question. I have a 1996 evinrude that shuts down once it's gotten to normal operating temp...when it Shuts down ithas no spark on all three cylinders. Wait 5-10 mins and will start up. Coils look mint and no visual damage on any electrical components including connection. Does this sound like stator or Cdi. I've had to replace both once before about 6 years ago. Thanks Also runs great before shuts down. Assistant:	Sounds like a bad CDI pack.	Sounds like a bad CDI pack.	Yes the motor starts up fine but won't tilt motor. No sound for tilt motor just a clicking noise
Human: Hi I have just bought a brand new 20 hp 4 stroke motor. It has power trim. I bought the motor from west marine, and had to order the oem controls for it. So I received the controls, hooked it all up. power tilt works, motor turns over but wont start. Have spark, fuel is pumping through the fuel line, and is pumping all the way to the carb. So I pulled the spark plug and put a half a straws worth of gas in, replaced the plug and it popped... wanted to go.. the controls are making a beeping sound? So I tryed a tad bit of carb cleaner into the carb, and it ran for 3 seconds.... The gas is flowing to the carb... Its brand new!!! so I tryed putting it into gear and try to start knowing that it should not. It didnt, but when i gave it a squirt of carb cleaner it ran for a sec? In gear.... so then I put it back in neutral, hit the kill toggle switch to the off position. no go, but if i hit it with a squirt of carb cleaner it pops and runs for 2 sec.... I was under the impression that the motor shouldn't even try to run if the toggle is off or the motor is in gear. and this beeping noise? The controls are oem from merc... Im stumped. Could a brand new motor have a carb that is dirty already some how? Cause thats the way it is acting, but for the motor to try and start with the kill switch in the off position? and it also tried to run with the carb cleaner in gear? At this point i dont wanna do much else as this will screw with my warranty... I just wanna go out fishing!! any info would be appreciated. Also western marine is the worst, all they tell me is to call merc. Should a motor try to run with the toggle switch in the off position? Cause mine does... In gear also??????? Assistant:	Also brand new gas tank, brand new gas, brand new plugs, brand new batteries... everything is brand new except the boat! 88 13 ft whaler. The cables are still on there way as mercury gave me the wrong part number!! the throttle cable or shift cable shouldn't have to be hooked up for the motor to run...	Also brand new gas tank, brand new gas, brand new plugs, brand new batteries... everything is brand new except the boat! 88 13 ft whaler. The cables are still on there way as mercury gave me the wrong part number!! the throttle cable or shift cable shouldn't have to be hooked up for the motor to run...	OK. Thanks.
Human: Hi I have just bought a brand new 20 hp 4 stroke motor. It has power trim. I bought the motor from west marine, and had to order the oem controls for it. So I received the controls, hooked it all up. power tilt works, motor turns over but wont start. Have spark, fuel is pumping through the fuel line, and is pumping all the way to the carb. So I pulled the spark plug and put a half a straws worth of gas in, replaced the plug and it popped... wanted to go.. the controls are making a beeping sound? So I tryed a tad bit of carb cleaner into the carb, and it ran for 3 seconds.... The gas is flowing to the carb... Its brand new!!! so I tryed putting it into gear and try to start knowing that it should not. It didnt, but when i gave it a squirt of carb cleaner it ran for a sec? In gear.... so then I put it back in neutral, hit the kill toggle switch to the off position. no go, but if i hit it with a squirt of carb cleaner it pops and runs for 2 sec.... I was under the impression that the motor shouldn't even try to run if the toggle is off or the motor is in gear. and this beeping noise? The controls are oem from merc... Im stumped. Could a brand new motor have a carb that is dirty already some how? Cause thats the way it is acting, but for the motor to try and start with the kill switch in the off position? and it also tried to run with the carb cleaner in gear? At this point i dont wanna do much else as this will screw with my warranty... I just wanna go out fishing!! any info would be appreciated. Also western marine is the worst, all they tell me is to call merc. Should a motor try to run with the toggle switch in the off position? Cause mine does... In gear also??????? Assistant:	Is tank vent open? loosen bolt on carb bowl is fuel there? Are you following the factory starting procedure? Is primer solenoid working,are you using it?	Is tank vent open? loosen bolt on carb bowl is fuel there? Are you following the factory starting procedure? Is primer solenoid working,are you using it?	If the engine does not see minimum cranking RPM it will not start.
Human: Hi I have just bought a brand new 20 hp 4 stroke motor. It has power trim. I bought the motor from west marine, and had to order the oem controls for it. So I received the controls, hooked it all up. power tilt works, motor turns over but wont start. Have spark, fuel is pumping through the fuel line, and is pumping all the way to the carb. So I pulled the spark plug and put a half a straws worth of gas in, replaced the plug and it popped... wanted to go.. the controls are making a beeping sound? So I tryed a tad bit of carb cleaner into the carb, and it ran for 3 seconds.... The gas is flowing to the carb... Its brand new!!! so I tryed putting it into gear and try to start knowing that it should not. It didnt, but when i gave it a squirt of carb cleaner it ran for a sec? In gear.... so then I put it back in neutral, hit the kill toggle switch to the off position. no go, but if i hit it with a squirt of carb cleaner it pops and runs for 2 sec.... I was under the impression that the motor shouldn't even try to run if the toggle is off or the motor is in gear. and this beeping noise? The controls are oem from merc... Im stumped. Could a brand new motor have a carb that is dirty already some how? Cause thats the way it is acting, but for the motor to try and start with the kill switch in the off position? and it also tried to run with the carb cleaner in gear? At this point i dont wanna do much else as this will screw with my warranty... I just wanna go out fishing!! any info would be appreciated. Also western marine is the worst, all they tell me is to call merc. Should a motor try to run with the toggle switch in the off position? Cause mine does... In gear also??????? Assistant:	You might want to post this on the Mercury Outboard forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" then scroll down to Mercury Outboards" and post it there.	You might want to post this on the Mercury Outboard forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" then scroll down to Mercury Outboards" and post it there.	My 90 hp had similar problem.changeing a 1 inch white plastic filter mounted on the back of the motor solved it. replaces a filter on the port side did not help
Human: Hi I have just bought a brand new 20 hp 4 stroke motor. It has power trim. I bought the motor from west marine, and had to order the oem controls for it. So I received the controls, hooked it all up. power tilt works, motor turns over but wont start. Have spark, fuel is pumping through the fuel line, and is pumping all the way to the carb. So I pulled the spark plug and put a half a straws worth of gas in, replaced the plug and it popped... wanted to go.. the controls are making a beeping sound? So I tryed a tad bit of carb cleaner into the carb, and it ran for 3 seconds.... The gas is flowing to the carb... Its brand new!!! so I tryed putting it into gear and try to start knowing that it should not. It didnt, but when i gave it a squirt of carb cleaner it ran for a sec? In gear.... so then I put it back in neutral, hit the kill toggle switch to the off position. no go, but if i hit it with a squirt of carb cleaner it pops and runs for 2 sec.... I was under the impression that the motor shouldn't even try to run if the toggle is off or the motor is in gear. and this beeping noise? The controls are oem from merc... Im stumped. Could a brand new motor have a carb that is dirty already some how? Cause thats the way it is acting, but for the motor to try and start with the kill switch in the off position? and it also tried to run with the carb cleaner in gear? At this point i dont wanna do much else as this will screw with my warranty... I just wanna go out fishing!! any info would be appreciated. Also western marine is the worst, all they tell me is to call merc. Should a motor try to run with the toggle switch in the off position? Cause mine does... In gear also??????? Assistant:	Where is my manual?	Where is my manual?	Too much air mixture is the minor issue. Head gasket is the bigger issue. It needs more fuel in the combustion chamber to fire up. Once you started it, rev it up and test the primer bulb to see if it's soft. If so, fuel diaphragm is ruptured/bad. Basic diagnostic starts with compression, spark and fuel/air mixture. Good luck.
Human: Hi I have just bought a brand new 20 hp 4 stroke motor. It has power trim. I bought the motor from west marine, and had to order the oem controls for it. So I received the controls, hooked it all up. power tilt works, motor turns over but wont start. Have spark, fuel is pumping through the fuel line, and is pumping all the way to the carb. So I pulled the spark plug and put a half a straws worth of gas in, replaced the plug and it popped... wanted to go.. the controls are making a beeping sound? So I tryed a tad bit of carb cleaner into the carb, and it ran for 3 seconds.... The gas is flowing to the carb... Its brand new!!! so I tryed putting it into gear and try to start knowing that it should not. It didnt, but when i gave it a squirt of carb cleaner it ran for a sec? In gear.... so then I put it back in neutral, hit the kill toggle switch to the off position. no go, but if i hit it with a squirt of carb cleaner it pops and runs for 2 sec.... I was under the impression that the motor shouldn't even try to run if the toggle is off or the motor is in gear. and this beeping noise? The controls are oem from merc... Im stumped. Could a brand new motor have a carb that is dirty already some how? Cause thats the way it is acting, but for the motor to try and start with the kill switch in the off position? and it also tried to run with the carb cleaner in gear? At this point i dont wanna do much else as this will screw with my warranty... I just wanna go out fishing!! any info would be appreciated. Also western marine is the worst, all they tell me is to call merc. Should a motor try to run with the toggle switch in the off position? Cause mine does... In gear also??????? Assistant:	of cores the vent on the tank is open, ther is no prime.... and yes there is a ton of fuel in that carb... I have been building motors for a while now.. But mostly 2 strokes.. My KTM is like a space ship to me!!! The harley is a bit easier than the KTM... Im confused about the motor wanting to start with the kill switch in the off position and in gear if you put carb cleaner in the carb... I talked to a mercury tec today and he said that if i, hearing a constant beep noise the whole time while turning the motor over than somthing is wrong with the wiring? But how hard is it to plug in a 10 point harness? And of course i am still waiting on the manual that I have called 3 times about and they just can't seem to ship it to me... I even offered to pay for it and pay for over night shipping! I started a new forum where the mercury outboard forums are.... thought this was it??	of cores the vent on the tank is open, ther is no prime.... and yes there is a ton of fuel in that carb... I have been building motors for a while now.. But mostly 2 strokes.. My KTM is like a space ship to me!!! The harley is a bit easier than the KTM... Im confused about the motor wanting to start with the kill switch in the off position and in gear if you put carb cleaner in the carb... I talked to a mercury tec today and he said that if i, hearing a constant beep noise the whole time while turning the motor over than somthing is wrong with the wiring? But how hard is it to plug in a 10 point harness? And of course i am still waiting on the manual that I have called 3 times about and they just can't seem to ship it to me... I even offered to pay for it and pay for over night shipping! I started a new forum where the mercury outboard forums are.... thought this was it??	I finally had a chance to bring the motor to my shop and have a look I pulled the carb. and saw this: The stuff on the throttle plate was a brown/red sticky goo. The stuff in the bottom of the fuel bowl was same color, but more like pieces of grit. Oxidized gasoline? I disassembled and cleaned this carb before launching around Memorial Day. It was clean as a whistle. Ran great the first few times I used the motor, then one day it didn't/ Fuel was purchased around Memorial Day and I added Yamaha fuel stabilizer. Fuel filter is new. Water separator is new. Fuel lines have all been replaced in the past 3-4 years. What's going on here? Thanks.
Human: Hi, I am hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. I have a 2007 alumacraft 17ft with a 60 yamaha outboard. Lately when I have been on the water and go to move fishing spots I turn the key to start the motor and nothing happens. The trim also doesn't work. It is not a bad connection on the batteries or bad battery. What makes me think there is some short in the cables or something is that if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right it will start up. If it doesn't on the first try I keep turning it in the opposite direction. Not sure what the problem would be. Does anyone have a idea? I would like to see if I can find the problem before I take it somewhere. Thank you. Assistant:	Check your wiring harness that goes thru engine cover,look for a pinched wire,loose wire,wires with insulation damage. Check battery connection on starter& solenoid. Pull wiring harness apart look for corrosion,loose pins,ETC, Check all grounds on engine. Check continuity of battery cables from battery to starter,disconnected of course.	Check your wiring harness that goes thru engine cover,look for a pinched wire,loose wire,wires with insulation damage. Check battery connection on starter& solenoid. Pull wiring harness apart look for corrosion,loose pins,ETC, Check all grounds on engine. Check continuity of battery cables from battery to starter,disconnected of course.	Docksidemarineservices said: Did you have the injectors serviced? They may not be flowing enough fuel... How sure are you that the engine is turning 6000RPM? Click to expand... the original tac is showing 6000 but it’s pretty damn old and not digital. The injectors I replaced about two weeks ago when I cleaned the vst. I’m still not ruling out an injector might need cleaned
Human: Hi, I am hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. I have a 2007 alumacraft 17ft with a 60 yamaha outboard. Lately when I have been on the water and go to move fishing spots I turn the key to start the motor and nothing happens. The trim also doesn't work. It is not a bad connection on the batteries or bad battery. What makes me think there is some short in the cables or something is that if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right it will start up. If it doesn't on the first try I keep turning it in the opposite direction. Not sure what the problem would be. Does anyone have a idea? I would like to see if I can find the problem before I take it somewhere. Thank you. Assistant:	you need to check for 12v + at the starter/solenoid, if nothing there then check the battery cables,	you need to check for 12v + at the starter/solenoid, if nothing there then check the battery cables,	cooperfly said: Seems to shake more when I put it in gear, give it more gas and the shaking will go away. I assume my carbs or jets could be gummed up - would sea foam help this Click to expand... I would check the RPMs. It might need adjusting. Sounds it set too low.
Human: Hi, I am hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. I have a 2007 alumacraft 17ft with a 60 yamaha outboard. Lately when I have been on the water and go to move fishing spots I turn the key to start the motor and nothing happens. The trim also doesn't work. It is not a bad connection on the batteries or bad battery. What makes me think there is some short in the cables or something is that if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right it will start up. If it doesn't on the first try I keep turning it in the opposite direction. Not sure what the problem would be. Does anyone have a idea? I would like to see if I can find the problem before I take it somewhere. Thank you. Assistant:	The cable can be corroded under the insulation and not visible bend it end to end looking for a weak spot?	The cable can be corroded under the insulation and not visible bend it end to end looking for a weak spot?	I realize that this thread is not current.... but what the heck, this may be useful. bondo said: Ayuh,... In my experience with 'em,... You can't plumb enough Amps to the boat to make it work Right... Click to expand... I just spoke with a man last week who owns a water heater repair/replacement business. This is residential, but the On-Demand concept is apparently the same industry wide. He confirmed what Bill just said regarding the wattage required. Natural Gas (or Propane for that matter) is much more efficient, but Propane On-Demand is likely not legal for Marine use, unless the unit was to be mounted externally and out in the open. Don't know for sure.... better check on this! FYI: My boat is equipped with a 12 gallon Electric Strip/Engine coolant Water Heater. Both engines are equipped with closed cooling systems, Port Engine provides coolant to the WH's internal heat exchanger coil. Engine temps are approx 160/170. I can leave the dock, and in approximately 45 minutes, I will have 12 gallons of fairly hot water. When running to a destination and staying on the hook, we will have plenty of hot water the following morning. To heat water further, my choices are to fire up the Port Engine, or to fire up the Generator. One nice feature w/ a conventional WH, is that throughout the day we'll have warm to hot water available, and without the need to fire up any engine! You mentioned "a little less freezing"..... and I'm not quite sure what you meant by that! If this were to mean that an On-Demand system may be easier to winterize, I suppose that it may be a tad bit easier. However, I believe that either will be relatively simple to winterize once you get a system down. My WH itself is completely drained of all potable water. The engine coolant side requires nothing done! The cold supply is then by-passed via a valving system (turn 3 valve handles and I'm done) and is joined with the Hot out supply creating a loop. The RV type anti-freeze can then be pumped through the entire system (both Hot/Cold plumbing) and out each Hot/Cold fixture. (you can purchase a by-pass kit, or make up your own..... I made up my own) It takes me about 15 minutes to winterize my O/B water system. Just a suggestion for you!
Human: Hi, I am hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. I have a 2007 alumacraft 17ft with a 60 yamaha outboard. Lately when I have been on the water and go to move fishing spots I turn the key to start the motor and nothing happens. The trim also doesn't work. It is not a bad connection on the batteries or bad battery. What makes me think there is some short in the cables or something is that if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right it will start up. If it doesn't on the first try I keep turning it in the opposite direction. Not sure what the problem would be. Does anyone have a idea? I would like to see if I can find the problem before I take it somewhere. Thank you. Assistant:	You can use a set of auto jumper cables to bypass the battery cables. If that eliminates the problem, then the problem is with the cables. If it doesn't eliminate the problem look elsewhere.	You can use a set of auto jumper cables to bypass the battery cables. If that eliminates the problem, then the problem is with the cables. If it doesn't eliminate the problem look elsewhere.	Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting get rid of your signature and i will help ya
Human: Hi, I am hoping someone could help point me in the right direction. I have a 2007 alumacraft 17ft with a 60 yamaha outboard. Lately when I have been on the water and go to move fishing spots I turn the key to start the motor and nothing happens. The trim also doesn't work. It is not a bad connection on the batteries or bad battery. What makes me think there is some short in the cables or something is that if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left or right it will start up. If it doesn't on the first try I keep turning it in the opposite direction. Not sure what the problem would be. Does anyone have a idea? I would like to see if I can find the problem before I take it somewhere. Thank you. Assistant:	Reeves,kyle Any news	Reeves,kyle Any news	Soooooo- new headgaskets and head cover gaskets. All the water passages are clean, waterflow is good, and new thermostats are functioning. My IR heat gun shows the head covers at 128 degrees at idle. Both sides show this now, which is good. I ran her at about 3000 rpm on the trailer at the ramp last night for 10 minutes - no overheat problem. I think launched her and did a few laps in the area close to the launch. in less than 5 minutes, the overheat alarm came on and the boat went into limp mode. It recovered within 20 seconds when I put her to idle. I couldn't even get the cover off to take a heat reading on the heads before the alarm silenced itself. I am beginning to think it is either a bad temp sensor, or a bad poppet valve. I plan to test the heat sensors today. I have a poppet valve on order. I also plan to change out the 4 month old impeller, just in case. Any other possible ideas guys? This is getting to be an epic freakin' troubleshoot. Rob
Human: I have a tahoe 215c. The motor starts just fine but the master power switch is not working. What could be wrong? Assistant:	Need more info. What else is not working? a little history would be helpful. How is engine starting if master power switch isn't working??	Need more info. What else is not working? a little history would be helpful. How is engine starting if master power switch isn't working??	These fuel pumps are very reliable.----Rarely fail.-----Often replaced as a last effort to try and fix a motor.---------What is the motor doing / not doing that leads you to the fuel pump ???
Human: I have a tahoe 215c. The motor starts just fine but the master power switch is not working. What could be wrong? Assistant:	It is a tahoe 215cc deck boat. We have two batteries in the back for the engine and accessories (bilge pump, radio, depth finder, sink and I am sure a couple other things). Under the center console we have another battery for the trolling motor and a battery charger that we plug in when not using the boat. Also in the back is a switch to turn the batteries on. We turn the switch in the back by the batteries on and then hit the ignition and the motor starts. Then we need to flip the switch on the console for the master power for everything else to turn on and nothing is happening. We just used the boat on vacation with no problem two weeks ago. We were going to go out this weekend and checking the boat last night ran into this problem. We are new to boating and are in the learning process.	It is a tahoe 215cc deck boat. We have two batteries in the back for the engine and accessories (bilge pump, radio, depth finder, sink and I am sure a couple other things). Under the center console we have another battery for the trolling motor and a battery charger that we plug in when not using the boat. Also in the back is a switch to turn the batteries on. We turn the switch in the back by the batteries on and then hit the ignition and the motor starts. Then we need to flip the switch on the console for the master power for everything else to turn on and nothing is happening. We just used the boat on vacation with no problem two weeks ago. We were going to go out this weekend and checking the boat last night ran into this problem. We are new to boating and are in the learning process.	What motor / drive is it ??
Human: I have a tahoe 215c. The motor starts just fine but the master power switch is not working. What could be wrong? Assistant:	The master power should be wired direct to the battery and there should be a inline fuse at the battery. If not you want to put a fuse on any small wire attached to the battery/s. A cheap test light will work just fine for troubleshooting wires and switches. Check for power to the switch and power coming out it could be just a faulty switch?	The master power should be wired direct to the battery and there should be a inline fuse at the battery. If not you want to put a fuse on any small wire attached to the battery/s. A cheap test light will work just fine for troubleshooting wires and switches. Check for power to the switch and power coming out it could be just a faulty switch?	Pull stat and test in a pot of water on stove, should open at 143F, Check temp. with a infrared temp. gun on head, Try the hand on head test for 6 second count. Are you running in salt water? Water from telltale should be warm but not hot enough to burn hand
Human: I have a tahoe 215c. The motor starts just fine but the master power switch is not working. What could be wrong? Assistant:	If no power is found at switch,check the ground and check the feed supply wire connection,12volt If fuse is blown check for continuity on +wire,check continuity on ground also. If u can't find break in wire,run a new wire,a lower gauge,thicker wire!	If no power is found at switch,check the ground and check the feed supply wire connection,12volt If fuse is blown check for continuity on +wire,check continuity on ground also. If u can't find break in wire,run a new wire,a lower gauge,thicker wire!	"John, How many of your oth "John, How many of your other vehicles sit in and function in water only? Not only that , but boats also have a vented fuel system, which lets pressure out, but moisture in as well. Ethanol will asorb water, become heavy,seperate from gas(rermember oil and water dont mix)gas goes on top, water goes below, the fuel pump sucks up water, and your day is shot "