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Human: Hey there,
I've had a long string of issues with my boat's electrical system. So I'll give a brief history.
Bought the boat, factory charging system dead. Upgraded to an alternator, installed as per instructions. An electrical short in the dash was burning up the alternators when driving the boat on the water. Had a marine shop find the short but the alternator still runs very hot and the belt squeals terribly when running faster than idol. I suspect another short somewhere in the dash.
My question is what should the gauge cluster pull for amps? Mine currently pulls over 6 amps without any accessories or lights. My volt gauge also reads 3/4 of a volt less than my multimeter attached directly to the back of it. Just looking for some unknowns.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance! Assistant: | Hopefully, that was the problem. Let us know if it solved it. | Hopefully, that was the problem. Let us know if it solved it. | If compression is good and motor looks maintained, I wouldn’t be worried. They aren’t perfect motors, but as long as you take care of them, they’ll work. |
Human: Hey there,
I've had a long string of issues with my boat's electrical system. So I'll give a brief history.
Bought the boat, factory charging system dead. Upgraded to an alternator, installed as per instructions. An electrical short in the dash was burning up the alternators when driving the boat on the water. Had a marine shop find the short but the alternator still runs very hot and the belt squeals terribly when running faster than idol. I suspect another short somewhere in the dash.
My question is what should the gauge cluster pull for amps? Mine currently pulls over 6 amps without any accessories or lights. My volt gauge also reads 3/4 of a volt less than my multimeter attached directly to the back of it. Just looking for some unknowns.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance! Assistant: | Even a cheap alternator is rated at 30 amps... a 6 amp dash draw ( lights on instruments on???) is beneath its notice. Look elsewhere. | Even a cheap alternator is rated at 30 amps... a 6 amp dash draw ( lights on instruments on???) is beneath its notice. Look elsewhere. | It does have a new fuel pump. The marina that repaired it ,I think ,half assed everything
It does run run fine not using the water separator |
Human: Hey there,
I've had a long string of issues with my boat's electrical system. So I'll give a brief history.
Bought the boat, factory charging system dead. Upgraded to an alternator, installed as per instructions. An electrical short in the dash was burning up the alternators when driving the boat on the water. Had a marine shop find the short but the alternator still runs very hot and the belt squeals terribly when running faster than idol. I suspect another short somewhere in the dash.
My question is what should the gauge cluster pull for amps? Mine currently pulls over 6 amps without any accessories or lights. My volt gauge also reads 3/4 of a volt less than my multimeter attached directly to the back of it. Just looking for some unknowns.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance! Assistant: | OK so this is what I have found.
After a couple days on a 2 amp trickle charger has made a big difference. I have had a battery maintainer on the battery off and on over the winter to keep it charged. Although it checked out with a load tester and had the power to start the engine, it is clear that it still needed a few days on charge before running the engine. The Alternator runs much cooler now.
In addition, with the bad connection in the fuse block fixed and all contacts cleaned, the dash voltmeter reads far more accurately and the charging system dummy light doesn't stay on. The bad connection read 12.5 volts with the key off and 10.8 with the load of the key on.
I have yet to take it out on the water to see how it performs, I will be sure to update after I do.
Thanks again for all the help. Chawk_man, I will be sure to message you, a wiring diagram is always valuable. Thanks! | OK so this is what I have found.
After a couple days on a 2 amp trickle charger has made a big difference. I have had a battery maintainer on the battery off and on over the winter to keep it charged. Although it checked out with a load tester and had the power to start the engine, it is clear that it still needed a few days on charge before running the engine. The Alternator runs much cooler now.
In addition, with the bad connection in the fuse block fixed and all contacts cleaned, the dash voltmeter reads far more accurately and the charging system dummy light doesn't stay on. The bad connection read 12.5 volts with the key off and 10.8 with the load of the key on.
I have yet to take it out on the water to see how it performs, I will be sure to update after I do.
Thanks again for all the help. Chawk_man, I will be sure to message you, a wiring diagram is always valuable. Thanks! | Nice to meet you William. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | if you have an old trailer and you are rewiring it, its prudent to run dedicated ground wires to the lights....
if you have a good meter, you can measure the voltage drop across each connection on the trailer and find the issue....
you can also connect one of the new units directly to the truck plug to make sure the truck wiring is still sound.... | if you have an old trailer and you are rewiring it, its prudent to run dedicated ground wires to the lights....
if you have a good meter, you can measure the voltage drop across each connection on the trailer and find the issue....
you can also connect one of the new units directly to the truck plug to make sure the truck wiring is still sound.... | Ive checked more thoroughly today, and the oil is clearly dripping from the small exhaust hole directly below the engine cowl clip. The oil is still clear and viscous. Is this a sign of broken rings or scarred barrel ? Will a compression test tell me anything as the engine is running perfectly. Help☺ |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | Thank you for the response. Double checking the truck plug was on my list and I was thinking of running ground wires from the truck to the lights on each side, or perhaps to run one ground the length of one side of the trailer then across to the other light and not depend on the grounded frame to provide the ground. I am still stumped of how the brake applied could shut off the right side (the weak side - dim lights) while still powering the left side. Like, DC is not a complex system. | Thank you for the response. Double checking the truck plug was on my list and I was thinking of running ground wires from the truck to the lights on each side, or perhaps to run one ground the length of one side of the trailer then across to the other light and not depend on the grounded frame to provide the ground. I am still stumped of how the brake applied could shut off the right side (the weak side - dim lights) while still powering the left side. Like, DC is not a complex system. | More or less the same as a model 8SN or 8LN that was distributed in the US in 1984.
Parts breakdown can be seen at the Yamaha USA website. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | depending upon the frame for the 'ground connection' has gotten a lot of people in trouble.....and frustrated even more.
the brake light signal is a signal signal shared between both sides and is the highest current circuit on a 4-wire system....without seeing it, its hard to be accurate but I'd be inclined to say the right side ground isn't very good.
DC wiring is very simple, in theory....from what I've seen over the decades is many people will take short cuts and expect things to be perfect, forever....trouble is things like scotch-loks and 'tuck the ground under the mounting screw' aren't "best practices' for long term, reliable connections. current will flow thru the path of least resistance - and when there are issues, that path is rarely considered.
Seriously, if you want the new lights to last, run dedicated grounds for the lights....and use heat-shrink connectors with a decent tool....I did an equipment trailer about 15 years ago - and the only time I see the owner is when somebody drove over something and ripped up a section of the harness...light 13 lights and the battery and brake system.... | depending upon the frame for the 'ground connection' has gotten a lot of people in trouble.....and frustrated even more.
the brake light signal is a signal signal shared between both sides and is the highest current circuit on a 4-wire system....without seeing it, its hard to be accurate but I'd be inclined to say the right side ground isn't very good.
DC wiring is very simple, in theory....from what I've seen over the decades is many people will take short cuts and expect things to be perfect, forever....trouble is things like scotch-loks and 'tuck the ground under the mounting screw' aren't "best practices' for long term, reliable connections. current will flow thru the path of least resistance - and when there are issues, that path is rarely considered.
Seriously, if you want the new lights to last, run dedicated grounds for the lights....and use heat-shrink connectors with a decent tool....I did an equipment trailer about 15 years ago - and the only time I see the owner is when somebody drove over something and ripped up a section of the harness...light 13 lights and the battery and brake system.... | Re: Yamaha F20 ESR won't start after tune-up (SOLVED)
Good news! Got it running smoothly with a second new carburetor. The first one must have had an issue.
Anyway, we're back in action... next step is to get it mounted on our 11' RIB and get out in the ocean and do some fishin'. Thanks for all your suggestions and advice. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | makomark: Thanks for the followup. What wire gauge do you recommend for ground wire. The light set appears (not marked) to be 16 gauge. Do you recommend separate ground wires down each side, or one wire down one side and a jumper to the other light? | makomark: Thanks for the followup. What wire gauge do you recommend for ground wire. The light set appears (not marked) to be 16 gauge. Do you recommend separate ground wires down each side, or one wire down one side and a jumper to the other light? | Motor is failing, high amps resulting from this could have burnt the contacts in the relay too but suggest replacing motor first and try it, if intermittent you will need to replace the relay too. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | depends upon how long the trailer and truck are as well as the current the lights require....16 AWG should be ok for most trailers...I prefer a ground on each side, tied together at the "Y" and run to the trailer connector from there....one other tip for a long lasting install - use marine (aircraft) wire - its fine stranded and tinned and the insulation is better at resisting water than the 'cheaper stuff'... | depends upon how long the trailer and truck are as well as the current the lights require....16 AWG should be ok for most trailers...I prefer a ground on each side, tied together at the "Y" and run to the trailer connector from there....one other tip for a long lasting install - use marine (aircraft) wire - its fine stranded and tinned and the insulation is better at resisting water than the 'cheaper stuff'... | On muffs, there is no back pressure. If you set the idle on muffs fuel will not be enough to keep the engine running in the water. Quick fix which you asked for in a pinch... crank up the idle RPM on muffs and then hit the water. See if that works. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | Totally agree with Makomark on everything he wrote. From what you described, your left side ground is very weak. Recently I completely re-wired my boat trailer. Ran separate ground wires down each side. That way, you can also run a ground wire to your side marker lights and your center rear light, if your trailer requires one. I ran white 14 AWG ground wire just to be on the safe side to assure adequate current flow at max power draw. It was marine grade wire I happened to have in the shop.
One other trick on a re-wiring job. Whenever wires come through the metal frame, that has the potential to chafe off the insulation over time. Most trailers have plastic insets to mitigate that problem. But over time and exposure, they get brittle and break. Get a small block of duct seal compound from your local hardware store. This stuff will not dry out and it's non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-conductive and non-staining. Take a small gob of it and work it all around every wire where it comes through a hole in the metal frame. It will protect those wires forever, and it makes the wiring job look very professional. | Totally agree with Makomark on everything he wrote. From what you described, your left side ground is very weak. Recently I completely re-wired my boat trailer. Ran separate ground wires down each side. That way, you can also run a ground wire to your side marker lights and your center rear light, if your trailer requires one. I ran white 14 AWG ground wire just to be on the safe side to assure adequate current flow at max power draw. It was marine grade wire I happened to have in the shop.
One other trick on a re-wiring job. Whenever wires come through the metal frame, that has the potential to chafe off the insulation over time. Most trailers have plastic insets to mitigate that problem. But over time and exposure, they get brittle and break. Get a small block of duct seal compound from your local hardware store. This stuff will not dry out and it's non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-conductive and non-staining. Take a small gob of it and work it all around every wire where it comes through a hole in the metal frame. It will protect those wires forever, and it makes the wiring job look very professional. | Thanks for answering. The motor ran fine. When I got home, the trim switches and the start switch did not function. No clicks nothing. All three switches failed at the same time. I got the motor down by leaking the fluid and proceeded to check. So far, 13.5v at the motor, all fuses, ptt solenoid and start motor. Checked the trim motor by connecting to battery. Runs fine. Checked start motor by jumping solenoid to battery line. It fires up. Still no action from start switch, the trim switch on the motor nor the trim switch in the throttle quad. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | Use tinned marine grade wires and solder all crimp connections then seal them in shrink wrap tubing. | Use tinned marine grade wires and solder all crimp connections then seal them in shrink wrap tubing. | both 2 stroke btw. |
Human: My truck has factory tow package, so the truck wiring to the fuse box should be good. Socket is standard white, brown, yellow blue. (Ground, tail light, left turn, right turn). Problem: Left lights are dim. Right lights are bright - everything works - tail, stop, turn, flasher. Left lights are weak (which I think indicates a weak ground). Tail, turn, flasher work, but dim. BUT, when I hit the brakes the whole left unit goes off! Right unit still going. I bought a new set. Plug in the new set (white, brown, brown, yellow, blue) to the truck socket. Make sure the mounted left unit is grounded to the frame. Ground the new set to same spot as the old set - frame tongue. Both sides getting the same grounding, it seems to me. Run new brown-yellow to left unit. Run new brown-blue to right unit. (Just running wires on the outside, on the ground, for testing). Getting same results - weak left lights, all work, but brake shuts the whole left unit down. Right unit still going strong. I am stumped. Assistant: | (which I think indicates a weak ground).
Click to expand...
Ayuh,.... A good diagnostic tool is a set of jumper cables for boostin' a dead battery,....
Take the jumper cables, 'n hook 1 end to a clean spot on the trailer frame,...
Hook the other ends to a clean spot on the truck frame,....
If all the lights suddenly work right, ya got a Bad ground, on the trailer, or on the truck side of the plug,.... | (which I think indicates a weak ground).
Click to expand...
Ayuh,.... A good diagnostic tool is a set of jumper cables for boostin' a dead battery,....
Take the jumper cables, 'n hook 1 end to a clean spot on the trailer frame,...
Hook the other ends to a clean spot on the truck frame,....
If all the lights suddenly work right, ya got a Bad ground, on the trailer, or on the truck side of the plug,.... | Looks like all of that is in the gear pump. Ughhhhhh. I have heard not to take those apart as more issues than you have will arise......... |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | The battery bank-inverter setup sounds a bit marginal to me.....but since its exists and you just invested int he panels, I'd suspect there's little desire to ditch it...
First off, I'd an ACR (automatic charging relay) in place of the 'isolator' as you eliminate the isolator's inefficiencies....one approach would be to use the ACR and have one engine/alternator charge both starting batteries and the other the 450AH bank....
another thing to consider is adding another alternator to charge the 450AH bank. I'd also be inclined to have the 'house functions' live off the 450AH bank vs the starting battery.
Finally, if the batteries are good and the alternators/regulators are functioning correctly, there's little risk of 'boiling' - the bigger concern is one battery (bank) suffering from a non-optimal charging source at the expense of the other bank - especially if they are 'mixed technologies'..... | The battery bank-inverter setup sounds a bit marginal to me.....but since its exists and you just invested int he panels, I'd suspect there's little desire to ditch it...
First off, I'd an ACR (automatic charging relay) in place of the 'isolator' as you eliminate the isolator's inefficiencies....one approach would be to use the ACR and have one engine/alternator charge both starting batteries and the other the 450AH bank....
another thing to consider is adding another alternator to charge the 450AH bank. I'd also be inclined to have the 'house functions' live off the 450AH bank vs the starting battery.
Finally, if the batteries are good and the alternators/regulators are functioning correctly, there's little risk of 'boiling' - the bigger concern is one battery (bank) suffering from a non-optimal charging source at the expense of the other bank - especially if they are 'mixed technologies'..... | Fogging is what we do to our gas powered equipment in Canada before storing it for the winter. Keeps the cylinders and bearings from rusting up. |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | Thanks for the suggestions. I too would prefer having all house functions off the 450AH battery bank, but presumably due to the PO's advanced age, he installed the new bank at the other end of the boat from my DC power panel. A couple hundred dollars worth of cable, plus the absurdity of sending the charge power forward only to send it right back again. Not an efficient setup.
It might be possible but adding another alternator would be a real PITA, logistically speaking. Just getting to the one requires all the dexterity I can muster, never mind trying to cobble in another bracket system.
Can you explain to me how it's possible not to overcharge the starboard battery? The batteries are new BTW, but if I'm pumping 14V out of my alternator as it charges the depleted port battery, and that same voltage is on the mostly charged starboard battery, won't it cook it?
The boat has a built in 120v battery charger for when we are plugged in, and that doesn't have separate charge output for the two batteries either, even though the manufacturer knew that one battery would get drawn down a lot more than the other one. | Thanks for the suggestions. I too would prefer having all house functions off the 450AH battery bank, but presumably due to the PO's advanced age, he installed the new bank at the other end of the boat from my DC power panel. A couple hundred dollars worth of cable, plus the absurdity of sending the charge power forward only to send it right back again. Not an efficient setup.
It might be possible but adding another alternator would be a real PITA, logistically speaking. Just getting to the one requires all the dexterity I can muster, never mind trying to cobble in another bracket system.
Can you explain to me how it's possible not to overcharge the starboard battery? The batteries are new BTW, but if I'm pumping 14V out of my alternator as it charges the depleted port battery, and that same voltage is on the mostly charged starboard battery, won't it cook it?
The boat has a built in 120v battery charger for when we are plugged in, and that doesn't have separate charge output for the two batteries either, even though the manufacturer knew that one battery would get drawn down a lot more than the other one. | maybe they are not 'live wells'.....if there's no pump, nothing you put into them will stay alive for long.... |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | Energy flows into a battery from the alternator.....most alternators (old factory designs) control the voltage (fixed) and allow the current delivered to vary. Say your two batteries are lead-acid (vs one of the newer designs)...the regulator will likely have a voltage set point ~ 14.3 VDC and the current flowing into a battery will vary based on its state of charge....a 'fully charged' battery won't accept much current.
Now if you have a lead acid battery on one side and say an AGM on the other, then the regulator's set point will only be 'ok' for one of them and the other will likely have issues down the road (this is a 'bad implementation or a bad design')....BTW, newer batttery designs have 'optimal' charging curves and typically need 'newer designed' regulators to produce best performance...
if you are concerned, then by all means, measure whats going on at each battery (voltage and current)....then you'll know what you have and what to expect.
A single output charger is like your alternator - multi-bank chargers are pretty cheap nowadays....that expense may make sense.... | Energy flows into a battery from the alternator.....most alternators (old factory designs) control the voltage (fixed) and allow the current delivered to vary. Say your two batteries are lead-acid (vs one of the newer designs)...the regulator will likely have a voltage set point ~ 14.3 VDC and the current flowing into a battery will vary based on its state of charge....a 'fully charged' battery won't accept much current.
Now if you have a lead acid battery on one side and say an AGM on the other, then the regulator's set point will only be 'ok' for one of them and the other will likely have issues down the road (this is a 'bad implementation or a bad design')....BTW, newer batttery designs have 'optimal' charging curves and typically need 'newer designed' regulators to produce best performance...
if you are concerned, then by all means, measure whats going on at each battery (voltage and current)....then you'll know what you have and what to expect.
A single output charger is like your alternator - multi-bank chargers are pretty cheap nowadays....that expense may make sense.... | I actually have 3. (24 volt trolling motor) two trolling, and then the cranking. And sadly I don't have a battery selector switch, not yet at least. |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | Hmmm, I thought that the current that will flow into a battery is a function of voltage - ramp up the voltage and the current will increase. Even a charged one? I thought that's how you overcharge a battery, putting too high a voltage on it for the state of charge. Which is why we charge a battery with a higher voltage which drops off as the battery charges. Am I mistaken about that? | Hmmm, I thought that the current that will flow into a battery is a function of voltage - ramp up the voltage and the current will increase. Even a charged one? I thought that's how you overcharge a battery, putting too high a voltage on it for the state of charge. Which is why we charge a battery with a higher voltage which drops off as the battery charges. Am I mistaken about that? | Jump the coil - Run a hot wire from the battery to the Plus + side of the coil, then crank to start. Remember if it does start, you must pull this wire off to shut down the engine, you're bypassing the key. |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | a lot depends upon the capabilities of the charging equipment you use....if things are functioning correctly, the voltage should adjust based on temperature as well as current into the battery (based on level of charge). if the voltage get too high, then yes, you are very likely to "overcharge the battery". If you have ancient charging equipment, its very likely that neither the voltage or the current are monitored (or controlled) anywhere close to optimal. DEKA makes decent batteries and publishes lots of tech data on their current product line - it makes for an enlightening experience.... | a lot depends upon the capabilities of the charging equipment you use....if things are functioning correctly, the voltage should adjust based on temperature as well as current into the battery (based on level of charge). if the voltage get too high, then yes, you are very likely to "overcharge the battery". If you have ancient charging equipment, its very likely that neither the voltage or the current are monitored (or controlled) anywhere close to optimal. DEKA makes decent batteries and publishes lots of tech data on their current product line - it makes for an enlightening experience.... | Thanks for all your help guys....im not sure if everything was working well, i just purchased the boat. i just replace even if they are new...it will start and everything comes on so far, i dont want to be a hour into my trip and then i have issues.......the volt meter...yes, i have just purchased a real time volt meter and im not installing it, a marine mechanic i trust is installing it.....so hopefully that helps......and yes, i am going to start this weekend as far as the electrical system...sanding, cleaning and inspecting....well my mechanic and I....hes going to show me what to look for and im going to go through it with him.....I feel part of the pleasure of owning a boat, house, car....Doing your own up keep....its pleasure, its pain,,,but its all mine, like love....lol....thanks a million guys.... |
Human: Hi all, I have a 40' trojan with twin 6-71 DD, and there are 3 different battery setups. First two are the stock system: 8D batteries, one for each engine but the port one is also used as a house battery running water pumps, interior lighting etc. The 3rd bank is 450AH of golf cart 6v batteries, powering a 2kw inverter running a fridge, microwave, and various electrical outlets in the boat. The PO set up this last system to only charge when the boat is plugged in at the dock, no onboard charging capacity. I found that inadequate as I spend a lot of time on the hook, so I installed 600w of solar panels which keeps everything fresh except on the wet months of the year. But since we are motoring from anchorage to anchorage it seemed crazy to not be charging this last bank when the engines are running, so I disconnected the starboard engine alternator from the start battery and connected it to charge this bank.
These engines light up immediately so I wasn't too concerned about the starboard battery going flat, but of course I can only start the engine so many times before that battery will be toast. Often I have to use an emergency solenoid to also use that battery to start the port engine, as the port battery gets pulled down as we sit at anchor. Long story short, I want to be able to charge the starboard battery as well as the port battery and house bank, all three batteries with different needs, with two alternators.
Recently a battery isolator came into my hands and I set it up so that the port engine alternator will charge the starboard battery, but we won't draw from it when we're using the port battery at anchor.
But here's my concern: the port battery is constantly being drawn way down. The starboard battery gets drawn down only for a few seconds at startup. My fear is that while the alternator is pumping out all that juice for the port battery, the starboard battery is going to get boiled alive. Is this a valid concern with these batteries? What's my (inexpensive) alternative? Assistant: | Got it. Thanks for your help. | Got it. Thanks for your help. | it sounds like you are just trying to PROMOTE the sale of this item. just what exactly are you trying to repair with it ? (that would help) |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | Just guessing, but suspect that your port engine harness is not hooked up correctly. Check hook up at both ends against your starboard engine. | Just guessing, but suspect that your port engine harness is not hooked up correctly. Check hook up at both ends against your starboard engine. | judojim said:
however, I also checked the timing with a timing lite and found the timing to be off a couple of degrees. My next step is to follow a friends advice and put the boat in the water, and check the carbs and timing there where I may find that it runs a bit differently than while on the hard. Better I hope. I'm also wondering if it may be worth my while to buy a set of gauges to attempt to "sync the carbs." I've seen a few YouTubes that explain syncing, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. I don't see anything about syncing in the service manual, so it may not even be possible for this engine.
Click to expand...
My pleasure, glad to hear it's running better. Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions for setting the timing. It makes no difference if boat is in or out of water for this adjustment. However, as I mentioned in my previous, the engine should be at normal operating temp prior to syncing carbs.
Re: carb sync gauge
The intake of newer model engines are designed to allow for the hose hook ups that connect to the gauge. But your engine does not. I'm sure a master mechanic could figure out how to do it, but the old school method detailed in the manual does the job. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | if it was "all great" before the swap and now aint so keen, somethings gone south with the wiring.....the hour meter is independent of the engine harness so I'd be inclined to start at the instrument panel.....
the oil pressure gauge reading suggests its sender wire may have an issue as well.....they usually go Full Scale or Min depending upon the 'standard' used...last idea, is do you know what the '86' came out of - helm configuration?? | if it was "all great" before the swap and now aint so keen, somethings gone south with the wiring.....the hour meter is independent of the engine harness so I'd be inclined to start at the instrument panel.....
the oil pressure gauge reading suggests its sender wire may have an issue as well.....they usually go Full Scale or Min depending upon the 'standard' used...last idea, is do you know what the '86' came out of - helm configuration?? | Sink the lower unit as deep as it normally would be in the water on the boat and try it. These pumps are not self priming... they have to be under water to pump or need earmuffs hooked up to a garden hose that forces water under pressure through the inlets and up to the pump. The cavitation place should be fully submerged at rest for the pump to work. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | makomark said:
...last idea, is do you know what the '86' came out of - helm configuration??
Click to expand...
Dual helm Station, 38' Carver
No issues with Tachometer(s) 1975 to Present, a fair statement? | makomark said:
...last idea, is do you know what the '86' came out of - helm configuration??
Click to expand...
Dual helm Station, 38' Carver
No issues with Tachometer(s) 1975 to Present, a fair statement? | papyson said:
if your vent is coming out of the top of the tank then the tank will be full before it leaks gas thru the vent...same as before...however if you fill an extension above the tank(like your new fuel fill) then when you top off the tank and fill the extension you may get some leak from the vent if the end of the vent tube is below the tank...just dont overfill and you should be ok...
Click to expand...
Ayuh,.... Exactly,.... By itself, movin' the fuel fill doesn't effect the vent,... |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | chawk_man said:
Just guessing, but suspect that your port engine harness is not hooked up correctly. Check hook up at both ends against your starboard engine.
Click to expand...
Only one plug clocking orientation
86 vs 80 are a match but, are they impedance matched?
I'll check Grounds, again, smear Grease in THE PLUG and all the Thunderbolt connections
Looks like Purple wire Key Switch to Tach or Key Switch could be an issue | chawk_man said:
Just guessing, but suspect that your port engine harness is not hooked up correctly. Check hook up at both ends against your starboard engine.
Click to expand...
Only one plug clocking orientation
86 vs 80 are a match but, are they impedance matched?
I'll check Grounds, again, smear Grease in THE PLUG and all the Thunderbolt connections
Looks like Purple wire Key Switch to Tach or Key Switch could be an issue | Looking at same problem. Think it's mech. fuel pump.
Replaced anti-siphon in tank. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded).
Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use....
And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections... | There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded).
Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use....
And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections... | contender31 said:
New gauge and no reading at all at the tank??? the terminal connectors should have nothing to do witht the reaidng at the tank gauge should it? the gauge is magnetic, all the contact terminal wires that connect to the gauge do is send the reading back to the helm doesn't it?
Click to expand...
The SENDER is magnetic. I'm calling the gauge the meter at the dash. But, yes, the mechancal part of the sender does have a little dial, and it should work without any power. There is a magnetic transfer, as you say. It is also possible the interior part of the sender is stuck/defective. Have you looked at these yet? http://www.isspro.com/products.php?cat=99 |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | makomark said:
There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded).
Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use....
And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections...
Click to expand...
Ok, this is all good information
I'll R/R the Oil Sender
Temperature is reading appropriately
Found right hand dash Voltage diff from Left. So, R/R Starboard Alternator and now reading same voltage as Port, YAY!
Proved out the Gray wire today, Dash to Module, R/R and Lubed every wire connection I could find.
Looks like the Tach signal wire (Gray) is independent of the run circuit (Purple) wire. So, I assume the Tach function of Thunderbolt Module is a Secondary function to Ignition. In other words, The Engine shouldn't be Running when the Tach reads zero but, it is running rather well?!! Pretty Crazy, Huh?!! LOL!!!
I'll try another Thunderbolt module | makomark said:
There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded).
Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use....
And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections...
Click to expand...
Ok, this is all good information
I'll R/R the Oil Sender
Temperature is reading appropriately
Found right hand dash Voltage diff from Left. So, R/R Starboard Alternator and now reading same voltage as Port, YAY!
Proved out the Gray wire today, Dash to Module, R/R and Lubed every wire connection I could find.
Looks like the Tach signal wire (Gray) is independent of the run circuit (Purple) wire. So, I assume the Tach function of Thunderbolt Module is a Secondary function to Ignition. In other words, The Engine shouldn't be Running when the Tach reads zero but, it is running rather well?!! Pretty Crazy, Huh?!! LOL!!!
I'll try another Thunderbolt module | a lot depends upon the capabilities of the charging equipment you use....if things are functioning correctly, the voltage should adjust based on temperature as well as current into the battery (based on level of charge). if the voltage get too high, then yes, you are very likely to "overcharge the battery". If you have ancient charging equipment, its very likely that neither the voltage or the current are monitored (or controlled) anywhere close to optimal. DEKA makes decent batteries and publishes lots of tech data on their current product line - it makes for an enlightening experience.... |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | the purple wire is more commonly called the IGNITION circuit and yes it is independent of the tach lead....I doubt there is any good reason to swap the module.....if the coil fires and the tach shows ZERO, I'd suspect the tach or its wiring....if yours has the selector switch, cycling it thru a few full sweeps can help restore tach functions.....on the other side of the thought process - a bad tach can keep the coil from firing....just something to keep in mind... | the purple wire is more commonly called the IGNITION circuit and yes it is independent of the tach lead....I doubt there is any good reason to swap the module.....if the coil fires and the tach shows ZERO, I'd suspect the tach or its wiring....if yours has the selector switch, cycling it thru a few full sweeps can help restore tach functions.....on the other side of the thought process - a bad tach can keep the coil from firing....just something to keep in mind... | Another solution is KiwiGrip. It's a one-coat non-slip coating. I've been using it for 4 years, now. Nice thing about it is that if you get scars and mars, touchup blends in so that the repair is not noticeable. Draw back is that it is darned pricey. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | makomark said:
the purple wire is more commonly called the IGNITION circuit and yes it is independent of the tach lead....I doubt there is any good reason to swap the module.....if the coil fires and the tach shows ZERO, I'd suspect the tach or its wiring....if yours has the selector switch, cycling it thru a few full sweeps can help restore tach functions.....on the other side of the thought process - a bad tach can keep the coil from firing....just something to keep in mind...
Click to expand...
Agreed but, we'll R/R the Thunderbolt Module, anyways, see what happens and tell ya the results.
Another weird thing is no coil.
Be easier to understand If it did't run LOL!
I ran a wire over to the Starboard engine Coil Negative from Left Engine Gray wire at Plug and the Tach worked fine (Port Engine Off Key On, Starboard engine Running). Still need to Put a test light on the Gray wire position on module with the Gray wire unattached
So, with all that said; I'll most likely R/R to 1980 Points Ignition but, not yet, more to come
Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor? | makomark said:
the purple wire is more commonly called the IGNITION circuit and yes it is independent of the tach lead....I doubt there is any good reason to swap the module.....if the coil fires and the tach shows ZERO, I'd suspect the tach or its wiring....if yours has the selector switch, cycling it thru a few full sweeps can help restore tach functions.....on the other side of the thought process - a bad tach can keep the coil from firing....just something to keep in mind...
Click to expand...
Agreed but, we'll R/R the Thunderbolt Module, anyways, see what happens and tell ya the results.
Another weird thing is no coil.
Be easier to understand If it did't run LOL!
I ran a wire over to the Starboard engine Coil Negative from Left Engine Gray wire at Plug and the Tach worked fine (Port Engine Off Key On, Starboard engine Running). Still need to Put a test light on the Gray wire position on module with the Gray wire unattached
So, with all that said; I'll most likely R/R to 1980 Points Ignition but, not yet, more to come
Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor? | There are (or should be) 2 hooks on the cover itself. One in the front and one in the back near the latch.
https://www.yamahaonlineparts.com/o...743cd6/95cd5d4a-9cd1-4b68-b9dc-ff15038132a7/y
Maybe you're missing one. The one in the rear is where the lever clamp on the bottom cowling attaches to.
If you can't see the problem, record a video for us. Sometimes a video will pinpoint the problem. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | So, today, I checked the Signal from the Thunderbolt Module Gray terminal with the Engine wiring Harness Gray wire disconnected
I got nothing while engine running and Nothing Key on to off with engine off, Next ran a wire from the disconnected Gray wire of the Engine Harness to the Negative of the Starboard Engine's Coil and the Tachometers ran perfectly in Unison see youtube videos below.
Yes, I'll be replacing the Thunderbolt some how, haven't figured which way to go yet
Soooooo sad to see the ends of the Thunderbolt Saga so quickly
I suppose it's way of telling the Captain head back to a dock cause, I'm gonna fail!!!
Long time Tuner and First time User! Thank you all for readin and the power steering, wait here I'll be back real soon and stay tuned!
https://youtu.be/PW75zZb6Bag and https://youtu.be/VkdSuXg2ZiY | So, today, I checked the Signal from the Thunderbolt Module Gray terminal with the Engine wiring Harness Gray wire disconnected
I got nothing while engine running and Nothing Key on to off with engine off, Next ran a wire from the disconnected Gray wire of the Engine Harness to the Negative of the Starboard Engine's Coil and the Tachometers ran perfectly in Unison see youtube videos below.
Yes, I'll be replacing the Thunderbolt some how, haven't figured which way to go yet
Soooooo sad to see the ends of the Thunderbolt Saga so quickly
I suppose it's way of telling the Captain head back to a dock cause, I'm gonna fail!!!
Long time Tuner and First time User! Thank you all for readin and the power steering, wait here I'll be back real soon and stay tuned!
https://youtu.be/PW75zZb6Bag and https://youtu.be/VkdSuXg2ZiY | Is there a sub floor in fiberglass boats that could be holding the water
Click to expand...
Ayuh,....... There's millions of glass boats, built thousands of ways, so what is yer's,..??..??
Outboard, or I/O powered,..?? |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | Going back to your question, "Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor?". There is. It's called the Delco Voyager EST and there is a version of it for the 454. It comes as a kit - a distributor with spark plug wires and a coil.
http://www.atpengines.com/documents/Delco_Voyager_Installation_Guide.pdf | Going back to your question, "Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor?". There is. It's called the Delco Voyager EST and there is a version of it for the 454. It comes as a kit - a distributor with spark plug wires and a coil.
http://www.atpengines.com/documents/Delco_Voyager_Installation_Guide.pdf | Could this be the head gasket? |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | DJR said:
Going back to your question, "Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor?". There is. It's called the Delco Voyager EST and there is a version of it for the 454. It comes as a kit - a distributor with spark plug wires and a coil.
http://www.atpengines.com/documents/Delco_Voyager_Installation_Guide.pdf
Click to expand...
Any others with the Works under the Cap and only need one wire (B+) to fire and be off to the races? | DJR said:
Going back to your question, "Is there Marine Equivalent to the Delco HEI Automotive Distributor?". There is. It's called the Delco Voyager EST and there is a version of it for the 454. It comes as a kit - a distributor with spark plug wires and a coil.
http://www.atpengines.com/documents/Delco_Voyager_Installation_Guide.pdf
Click to expand...
Any others with the Works under the Cap and only need one wire (B+) to fire and be off to the races? | Justintime-
Assume no spark as it would be difficult to check. Coil? I am trying to go ahead and replace what may be the problem as diagnostics do not seem to have been able to find an issue.
Thanks |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | There're a few.....personally, the Voyager's are OK but far from the 'best' - biggest objection is the advance curve is fixed and can't be altered..
whichever path you take, make sure the "chosen part" is marine rated (no vacuum advance)..... | There're a few.....personally, the Voyager's are OK but far from the 'best' - biggest objection is the advance curve is fixed and can't be altered..
whichever path you take, make sure the "chosen part" is marine rated (no vacuum advance)..... | Good Deal & glad it worked out! |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | makomark said:
There're a few.....personally, the Voyager's are OK but far from the 'best' - biggest objection is the advance curve is fixed and can't be altered..
whichever path you take, make sure the "chosen part" is marine rated (no vacuum advance).....
Click to expand...
Agreed!
I just notice in the picture a "vacuum advance", My Bad
There, fix it
Found one at Summit Racing (Marine) looks just like this one arced for 24 degrees and all aluminum housing $100
I think that's the one, I'll look at it!
24 degrees is correct for my running at about 3500-4100 rpm, Right?
I'll set at 6 degrees. Oooooooh, that's close?!! I'm already maxed out at 30 degrees, correct?
Should be 28 degrees.
Ok, I'll set my ignition timing at 4 degrees! Perfect | makomark said:
There're a few.....personally, the Voyager's are OK but far from the 'best' - biggest objection is the advance curve is fixed and can't be altered..
whichever path you take, make sure the "chosen part" is marine rated (no vacuum advance).....
Click to expand...
Agreed!
I just notice in the picture a "vacuum advance", My Bad
There, fix it
Found one at Summit Racing (Marine) looks just like this one arced for 24 degrees and all aluminum housing $100
I think that's the one, I'll look at it!
24 degrees is correct for my running at about 3500-4100 rpm, Right?
I'll set at 6 degrees. Oooooooh, that's close?!! I'm already maxed out at 30 degrees, correct?
Should be 28 degrees.
Ok, I'll set my ignition timing at 4 degrees! Perfect | Could the rectifier be bad? |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | ☆Update☆
Looking further into the possibility of missing parts:
The thunderbolt has a weird rotor with a cookie cutter like
Metal thing on the bottom which is alarmingly missing on mine
I bet dollars to Dougnuts; That's the problem! | ☆Update☆
Looking further into the possibility of missing parts:
The thunderbolt has a weird rotor with a cookie cutter like
Metal thing on the bottom which is alarmingly missing on mine
I bet dollars to Dougnuts; That's the problem! | That would sort of work but is not a great solution. It definitely sounds like your trim limit switch has failed. You could potentially set your trim at the desired planing attitude while in neutral and let the trim tabs give you stern lift on take off. But, this is not ideal because you won't be able to adjust while running if the conditions dictate it.
I don't know volvo penta systems but are you sure the part is discontinued? Maybe you could find a good used unit at a bone yard or on Ebay? |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | Nope, lost that Bet
I really thought I had a simple solution but, Noooooooooooo!
Mine Has a metal disk, with slots in it and some kinda optical eye ...where the vacuum plate would be. | Nope, lost that Bet
I really thought I had a simple solution but, Noooooooooooo!
Mine Has a metal disk, with slots in it and some kinda optical eye ...where the vacuum plate would be. | Thank you so much! Appreciate your help! |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | That's the trigger wheel.... | That's the trigger wheel.... | no, I havent had a chance to work with it yet, but I am going to give all of your suggestions to my brother and see if we cant get it fixed. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to try and help me, This forum is GREAT!!! |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | Can the trigger wheel be replaced with conventional Points or Spit fire Electronic?
IF not the whole Mercruiser Thunderbolt ignition system is Junk! I wouldn't trust em any farther than my Dock line lol!
Well, anyways, R/R the Mercruiser Thunderbolt Control for another one I have and the result is; the same
Note: Found a NO-NO; the Wires between the Thunderbolt Control Module and the Thunderbolt Distributor are Aluminum core should be copper.
So, on to the Cure! Just to see if my next idea with the HEI would work, installed a sweet, 1980 HEI (Will Be Replacing soon for new) and the result is; Everything works GREAT
See Video; https://youtu.be/ajHrhJ-GMds | Can the trigger wheel be replaced with conventional Points or Spit fire Electronic?
IF not the whole Mercruiser Thunderbolt ignition system is Junk! I wouldn't trust em any farther than my Dock line lol!
Well, anyways, R/R the Mercruiser Thunderbolt Control for another one I have and the result is; the same
Note: Found a NO-NO; the Wires between the Thunderbolt Control Module and the Thunderbolt Distributor are Aluminum core should be copper.
So, on to the Cure! Just to see if my next idea with the HEI would work, installed a sweet, 1980 HEI (Will Be Replacing soon for new) and the result is; Everything works GREAT
See Video; https://youtu.be/ajHrhJ-GMds | I'm old school and got used to West Systems a long time ago...406 or 404 filler, if i remember, would be a good choice, depending upon what you have access to....lots of similar products around now so its mostly a matter of personal preference nowadays. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | I've never seen anything other than stock stuff (or aftermarket replacements) under a TB cap...
Never seen any AL wire in a factory harness so don't know what caused that...glad you have a solution to go forward with... | I've never seen anything other than stock stuff (or aftermarket replacements) under a TB cap...
Never seen any AL wire in a factory harness so don't know what caused that...glad you have a solution to go forward with... | I've got the engine back home after the engineer's assesssment, which I am very pleased with, and the price which I felt was reasonable.
I have had my own investigation. just a preliminary hour. What seems to have happened is that the engine was left in the water and the sacrificial anode corroded and fell away, and then this led to corrosion of the lowermount bracket (the clamp with the rubbers just bellow the water line), due to electrical corrosion between the aluminium alloy bracket and the stainless steel bolt which held it together, causing one side of the bracket to fail, to break off one side. Consequently the engine was thus pushed off center by the other side which remained in tact, though itself corrorded much around the aluminium alloy clamp and the steel bolts. Hence the shift rod was off-center, off vertical.
The guy who had it, now passed away, had been a commercial pilot. Maybe he was used to control levers which had electronics, so he didn't have a feel for controls which were purely mechanical....when he pushed the shift rod down using the remote, he did not do it with mechanical feeling, to help the gears to enmesh, he just slammed the lever and expected it to happen, and using force to do so. But because the shift rod was not vertical, it was to the side, because one side of the lower clamp had broken away, the shift merely bent/buckled, not being of a suficient guage of rod to stand that off-centeredness and such force. Thus the shift rod was in effect too short to engage the gears, and this is where the story ended, except for a last-ditch attempt by putting pliers or mole grips on the square shift bar at the cable connection end. Then it was given up on and left to stand until now.
I could be wrong about this sequence of events, of course, but it is interesting to try and discover what happened. But for sure the shift rod has bent, and apart for this everything is absolutely superb. Apparently the engine has only done 500 hours, and I have no reason to doubt this information.
The section of the shift rod which goes down into the gearbox is something I can straighten. I think the top section may be bent, which seems a bigger problem. But this is all is wrong with it. It looks fabtastic.
I have to take adavntage of the little bit of good weather left tothe paint things on the boat, but later when the bad weather comes I will get cracking with sorting this engine in winter weeks. Please, if you can help me during that time then I would welcome your help. I can hardly wait to get started. Please look out for my post in a few weeks, and any help anyone can offer I of course will be very thankful for. I'll learn how to post pictures so that will make it all better to communicate. Should be fun. Cheers. |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | 454 said:
Another weird thing is no coil.
Click to expand...
Oooooooppppsss correction, I found that Big bad boy Coil under the Module. | 454 said:
Another weird thing is no coil.
Click to expand...
Oooooooppppsss correction, I found that Big bad boy Coil under the Module. | This is the 2nd string on this motor....what it boils down to is we dont have enough information about the failure to help you...the first decision you have to make is it a fuel or a fire problem..you say water somewhere in the electrical is suspected...so does the engine have fire at the time of failure? |
Human: 1980 Points Ignition vs 1986 Thunderbolt ignition
Is there a conversion I can buy and plug in to correct this problem?
Memorial Day weekend 1980 Sea Ray SRV 310 project;
Replaced Port 1980 454 Merc with a 1986 454 Mercruiser Straight Drive with thunderbolt ignition, plugged it in, Now;
Tachometer and Hour Meter won't work, Oil Gauge reads at top of Scale (Starboard engine all working Perfect)
Was working perfect no issues with old port engine except for Oil leaks and Bad rod Bearings
What I did after install;
Hit the Port Side Key first time started right up with no issues at least on the Engine end; Running Port Side Dash Tachometer Reads Zero, Dash Hour Meter Reads Zero and Dash Oil Pressure Gauge is reading at the top of Scale (Engine off Key on reads about 35lbs), Port Engine still Starts and Runs Great not a miss, took it out anyways, jumped up on a plane, Idled perfectly back to the Marina and put her away Assistant: | makomark said:
Never seen any AL wire in a factory harness so don't know what caused that...glad you have a solution to go forward with...
Click to expand...
Yeah, the wires fell apart when I touched them and not apart more like fell into dust.
ALUMINUM WIRES; Something to look out for, Boys and Girls!
All things considered, The above Cure is temporary until I get time to R/R the Whole Engine wiring harness, Senders and Distributor to match the Starboard side engine | makomark said:
Never seen any AL wire in a factory harness so don't know what caused that...glad you have a solution to go forward with...
Click to expand...
Yeah, the wires fell apart when I touched them and not apart more like fell into dust.
ALUMINUM WIRES; Something to look out for, Boys and Girls!
All things considered, The above Cure is temporary until I get time to R/R the Whole Engine wiring harness, Senders and Distributor to match the Starboard side engine | It's confirmed.. There was a hole in the exhaust port which allowed fumes to come up under the engine cover. The motor doesn't like breathing these fumes. |
Human: I have a Yamaha jet boat and realized the batteries were nearly during summer prep at home. Stereo turned on but not enough juice to crank the motor over.
As a result I put a charger on each of the batteries overnight.
This morning I disconnected the battery chargers and moved the battery switch from 'off" to "1&2" . As soon as I did that, the thick positive battery cable started to smoke big time. It It was enough to totally melt the red sheath. Majority of the smoke was coming from where the positive cable was connected to the boat's battery on and off switch. I reached back down and moved the battery switch back to off. LOTS of smoke.
Please Help!!!
Thanks ahead of time for your responses,
John Assistant: | Ayuh,.... Sounds like the battery switch is wired to be a dead short,....
So,.... Just how ya got this thing wired up,..?? | Ayuh,.... Sounds like the battery switch is wired to be a dead short,....
So,.... Just how ya got this thing wired up,..?? | Fuel line fittings good? |
Human: I have a Yamaha jet boat and realized the batteries were nearly during summer prep at home. Stereo turned on but not enough juice to crank the motor over.
As a result I put a charger on each of the batteries overnight.
This morning I disconnected the battery chargers and moved the battery switch from 'off" to "1&2" . As soon as I did that, the thick positive battery cable started to smoke big time. It It was enough to totally melt the red sheath. Majority of the smoke was coming from where the positive cable was connected to the boat's battery on and off switch. I reached back down and moved the battery switch back to off. LOTS of smoke.
Please Help!!!
Thanks ahead of time for your responses,
John Assistant: | no, something has been omitted.....literally doesn't pass the sniff test..... | no, something has been omitted.....literally doesn't pass the sniff test..... | welcome to ME.com!
There's some www info on your hull/model but it is scarce. I'd check with the guys at chris-craft.org. They specialize in the older, wooden flavors but willingly embraced the newer 'glass' models. Think there's an annual fee - ask/email and see if they can help. That hull is from the "Murray age" and some hulls have had structural issues so check it out thoroughly before you sink a lot of time/money into it. If it has issues, they should be pretty obvious by now.
As far as the tank goes, try a mirror and flashlight to get the data off the plate. if that doesn't work, you can always measure it and calculate an approximate volume. What you will find is the tanks are made in "nominal" sizes and will have a little variation between parts. What is more important is how much of the fuel you can use from the tank.
One last note, boat builders are notorious for 'stretching' the truth, especially with marketing and model numbers. re-measure the hull length, down the keel line if possible. If it exceeds 22' by anything, it is likely to be labeled as a 23x model. The x should give the powertrain/hull configuration (can't provide anymore specifics than that on the use of the 'x' digit). sometimes, old sales brochures show up on ebay. |
Human: I have a Yamaha jet boat and realized the batteries were nearly during summer prep at home. Stereo turned on but not enough juice to crank the motor over.
As a result I put a charger on each of the batteries overnight.
This morning I disconnected the battery chargers and moved the battery switch from 'off" to "1&2" . As soon as I did that, the thick positive battery cable started to smoke big time. It It was enough to totally melt the red sheath. Majority of the smoke was coming from where the positive cable was connected to the boat's battery on and off switch. I reached back down and moved the battery switch back to off. LOTS of smoke.
Please Help!!!
Thanks ahead of time for your responses,
John Assistant: | makomark said:
no, something has been omitted.....literally doesn't pass the sniff test.....
Click to expand...
Nothing has been omitted.
I literally did not touch ANY of the wiring. Each battery has their own charging posts so I used that to connect the charger to.
Could the fact that I deep charged the batteries have an issue?
The smoking was coming from the battery selector switch. | makomark said:
no, something has been omitted.....literally doesn't pass the sniff test.....
Click to expand...
Nothing has been omitted.
I literally did not touch ANY of the wiring. Each battery has their own charging posts so I used that to connect the charger to.
Could the fact that I deep charged the batteries have an issue?
The smoking was coming from the battery selector switch. | Have your new battery load tested. |
Human: I have a Yamaha jet boat and realized the batteries were nearly during summer prep at home. Stereo turned on but not enough juice to crank the motor over.
As a result I put a charger on each of the batteries overnight.
This morning I disconnected the battery chargers and moved the battery switch from 'off" to "1&2" . As soon as I did that, the thick positive battery cable started to smoke big time. It It was enough to totally melt the red sheath. Majority of the smoke was coming from where the positive cable was connected to the boat's battery on and off switch. I reached back down and moved the battery switch back to off. LOTS of smoke.
Please Help!!!
Thanks ahead of time for your responses,
John Assistant: | You have some dirty and corroded connections some place. Check the battery switch first. | You have some dirty and corroded connections some place. Check the battery switch first. | "The guys up here who have the
"The guys up here who have the skids like them, but I still prefer rollers. All the bunk guys have to sink their trailers..often to the point of the rear wheels of the tow vehicle being in the salt on a shallow ramp.....not good for the rear brakes!! I love my Shoreland'r, great roller system, dropped axles and disc brakes standard equipment! I have a 22 ft Seasport it rolls off with a slight push everytime...have to hold it back it goes off so fast." |
Human: Hello,
Recently I bought a new fuel gauge and sender.
In the shop they told me that the gauge and sender are good to use with each other with the resistance.
When I tested the sender, connected to the gauge it worked like it should.
Now installed when I turn my key the fuel gauge peggs over full.
I think it's a problem with my ground connection.
My gauge has 3 connections,
- ignition
- ground
- sender
The ignition is connected to my ignition cable behind the key.
The ground is connected to my ground cable begind the key.
The sender is connected to the center bolt of my fuel sender.
My sender has 2 connections,
- The center bolt is connected to my sender connection on the gauge.
- A bolt on the side connected to my negative ground of my battery.
When I connect the gauge only with my ground and ignition the gauge stays empty so the gauge should be good.
The sender I tested manualy before the installation and it worked also.
Inside the cork washer of the fuel sender is a metal staple to connect my center bolt to my ground, I think this is the problem but I don't know how I should properly connect this if this should be the problem.
Regards,
Jasper Assistant: | When key is turned on gauge is supposed to peg at full,after starting engine needle should show proper reading,sending unit needs to be grounded, gasket under sender insulates sender from tank,no metal to metal connection, Should be a male terminal connection on sender | When key is turned on gauge is supposed to peg at full,after starting engine needle should show proper reading,sending unit needs to be grounded, gasket under sender insulates sender from tank,no metal to metal connection, Should be a male terminal connection on sender | "The guys up here who have the
"The guys up here who have the skids like them, but I still prefer rollers. All the bunk guys have to sink their trailers..often to the point of the rear wheels of the tow vehicle being in the salt on a shallow ramp.....not good for the rear brakes!! I love my Shoreland'r, great roller system, dropped axles and disc brakes standard equipment! I have a 22 ft Seasport it rolls off with a slight push everytime...have to hold it back it goes off so fast." |
Human: Hello,
Recently I bought a new fuel gauge and sender.
In the shop they told me that the gauge and sender are good to use with each other with the resistance.
When I tested the sender, connected to the gauge it worked like it should.
Now installed when I turn my key the fuel gauge peggs over full.
I think it's a problem with my ground connection.
My gauge has 3 connections,
- ignition
- ground
- sender
The ignition is connected to my ignition cable behind the key.
The ground is connected to my ground cable begind the key.
The sender is connected to the center bolt of my fuel sender.
My sender has 2 connections,
- The center bolt is connected to my sender connection on the gauge.
- A bolt on the side connected to my negative ground of my battery.
When I connect the gauge only with my ground and ignition the gauge stays empty so the gauge should be good.
The sender I tested manualy before the installation and it worked also.
Inside the cork washer of the fuel sender is a metal staple to connect my center bolt to my ground, I think this is the problem but I don't know how I should properly connect this if this should be the problem.
Regards,
Jasper Assistant: | I don't believe the "metal staple" is necessary or desired....remove it and try again....based on your description of what was done, I'm inclined to think the staple is your problem....if the gauge stays at "full" when the key is on AFTER the staple is removed, try running a 'new' sender wire, from the sender to the gauge....try it temporarily at first.... | I don't believe the "metal staple" is necessary or desired....remove it and try again....based on your description of what was done, I'm inclined to think the staple is your problem....if the gauge stays at "full" when the key is on AFTER the staple is removed, try running a 'new' sender wire, from the sender to the gauge....try it temporarily at first.... | Tegweni said:
check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart.
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Could you supply a link on how to do that as well as a link to the chart you reference? Thanks for the suggestion. |
Human: Hello,
Recently I bought a new fuel gauge and sender.
In the shop they told me that the gauge and sender are good to use with each other with the resistance.
When I tested the sender, connected to the gauge it worked like it should.
Now installed when I turn my key the fuel gauge peggs over full.
I think it's a problem with my ground connection.
My gauge has 3 connections,
- ignition
- ground
- sender
The ignition is connected to my ignition cable behind the key.
The ground is connected to my ground cable begind the key.
The sender is connected to the center bolt of my fuel sender.
My sender has 2 connections,
- The center bolt is connected to my sender connection on the gauge.
- A bolt on the side connected to my negative ground of my battery.
When I connect the gauge only with my ground and ignition the gauge stays empty so the gauge should be good.
The sender I tested manualy before the installation and it worked also.
Inside the cork washer of the fuel sender is a metal staple to connect my center bolt to my ground, I think this is the problem but I don't know how I should properly connect this if this should be the problem.
Regards,
Jasper Assistant: | found the problem, was a bad ground, thanks | found the problem, was a bad ground, thanks | johnnygjr said:
Mounting height of engine comes to mind,keeping cavitation plate about level with keel of hull for proper performance and keeping WOT within specs
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Yeah absolutely I would be keeping everything at same angles and levels in regards to the keel. Just making an engine bracket for extra flotation and moving engine back about 20" or so. |
Human: hi everyone. 1st time boat owner and having some trouble with my 1991 Lasrson. has 125 Merc outboard. i bought it last saturday and the guy who i bought it from showed me how to raise and lower the motor. being that ive never had a boat before i was listening intently. i got my boat home after a 3 hour drive and started to play around. i pressed the tilt trim switch located on the throttle and pressed up. no problem, hydraulics kick in and it raises. i press down on the toggle and nothing. doesnt lower, doesnt make a sound. after vast research online and talking to the previous owner, he thought it had hydraulic lock because of the drive home and it was in the most raised positon, so i bled the fluid and it came down manually. i replaced the fluid and tried again. goes up, but still no power coming down. started to read that it is probably a faulty relay. i switch the two relays and same result. up and no down. not even a click that you hear in the relays. i read further and pulled the down relay and placed jumper wire between the terminal from battery and the trim/tilt terminal, bypassing the relay, and it lowered. so this is where i am now confused. by testing both relays and then testing the motor, does this indicate that the actual switch is the issue? any help would be greatly appreciated. want to get out and do some fishing this weekend! Assistant: | I'd say it's a bad switch. Get a voltmeter or test light and check it out. | I'd say it's a bad switch. Get a voltmeter or test light and check it out. | Jwharton said:
I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too?
Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that.
Thanks
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Just tried running her with muffs on and fishing some plastic weed wipper chord into the out nozzle at the head a couple of times and run more Salt Away into her and it's peeing like a champ! Thinking I must have some scale or sand in there somewhere giving me circulating problems? Anyway I'm not going to do anything drastic for a few weeks as the Sockeye salmon are hitting hard out there and some big Coho are coming thru.
Cheers |
Human: hi everyone. 1st time boat owner and having some trouble with my 1991 Lasrson. has 125 Merc outboard. i bought it last saturday and the guy who i bought it from showed me how to raise and lower the motor. being that ive never had a boat before i was listening intently. i got my boat home after a 3 hour drive and started to play around. i pressed the tilt trim switch located on the throttle and pressed up. no problem, hydraulics kick in and it raises. i press down on the toggle and nothing. doesnt lower, doesnt make a sound. after vast research online and talking to the previous owner, he thought it had hydraulic lock because of the drive home and it was in the most raised positon, so i bled the fluid and it came down manually. i replaced the fluid and tried again. goes up, but still no power coming down. started to read that it is probably a faulty relay. i switch the two relays and same result. up and no down. not even a click that you hear in the relays. i read further and pulled the down relay and placed jumper wire between the terminal from battery and the trim/tilt terminal, bypassing the relay, and it lowered. so this is where i am now confused. by testing both relays and then testing the motor, does this indicate that the actual switch is the issue? any help would be greatly appreciated. want to get out and do some fishing this weekend! Assistant: | Most definitely the switch. It could be bad contact. Before tearing it apart, turn off power, then spray electrical cleaner in and around the switch and move it back and forth many times as if you were raising & lowering. Turn on power and see if that worked. If not either repair or replace switch. Many of the older ones can be taken apart and cleaned up. | Most definitely the switch. It could be bad contact. Before tearing it apart, turn off power, then spray electrical cleaner in and around the switch and move it back and forth many times as if you were raising & lowering. Turn on power and see if that worked. If not either repair or replace switch. Many of the older ones can be taken apart and cleaned up. | Well, geez...sorry for the double post...If a mod is handy, please feel free to delete this one. |
Human: Boat is a 20 ski boat. The transducer doesn't have an up or down arrow and instructions dont explain. One side is hard plastic and other side like a gel/glue side and concave. I assume the hard side but it has a line down that center that allows it to rock but ever so slightly. Will the adhesive i use allow for the small line on it? The wire comes out the side and says radarsonic on it. Pics are from ebay. the transducer is similar other than wire comes out the side not top or bottom.
Also this is a 4.3 inboard merc. the old transducer was glued on just below front of engine. I plan on putting in same cleaned up location. Boat is not in the water and holding it there i get no reading. Display says 0.0. If i put in a bucket of water and just let it dangle i can get a reading.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! I've thought of just taking it out and gluing it down out in the water. Assistant: | Most definitely the switch. It could be bad contact. Before tearing it apart, turn off power, then spray electrical cleaner in and around the switch and move it back and forth many times as if you were raising & lowering. Turn on power and see if that worked. If not either repair or replace switch. Many of the older ones can be taken apart and cleaned up. | Most definitely the switch. It could be bad contact. Before tearing it apart, turn off power, then spray electrical cleaner in and around the switch and move it back and forth many times as if you were raising & lowering. Turn on power and see if that worked. If not either repair or replace switch. Many of the older ones can be taken apart and cleaned up. | Tps sensor in ECM is bad. Try to find a loaner to verify. Thank's Martin |
Human: Boat is a 20 ski boat. The transducer doesn't have an up or down arrow and instructions dont explain. One side is hard plastic and other side like a gel/glue side and concave. I assume the hard side but it has a line down that center that allows it to rock but ever so slightly. Will the adhesive i use allow for the small line on it? The wire comes out the side and says radarsonic on it. Pics are from ebay. the transducer is similar other than wire comes out the side not top or bottom.
Also this is a 4.3 inboard merc. the old transducer was glued on just below front of engine. I plan on putting in same cleaned up location. Boat is not in the water and holding it there i get no reading. Display says 0.0. If i put in a bucket of water and just let it dangle i can get a reading.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! I've thought of just taking it out and gluing it down out in the water. Assistant: | not the best picture to post....based on your description, I'd say you have a "trolling motor mount" transducer....the concave bevel is shaped to match to motor housing on a trolling motor, so it goes up....many have slots at the 'top of the ears' for a hose clamp to secure to a motor....
If you take your "setup" to a pool (instead of the bucket of water), it should be pretty easy to verify this... | not the best picture to post....based on your description, I'd say you have a "trolling motor mount" transducer....the concave bevel is shaped to match to motor housing on a trolling motor, so it goes up....many have slots at the 'top of the ears' for a hose clamp to secure to a motor....
If you take your "setup" to a pool (instead of the bucket of water), it should be pretty easy to verify this... | Sarrre said:
Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever!
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Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running? |
Human: Boat is a 20 ski boat. The transducer doesn't have an up or down arrow and instructions dont explain. One side is hard plastic and other side like a gel/glue side and concave. I assume the hard side but it has a line down that center that allows it to rock but ever so slightly. Will the adhesive i use allow for the small line on it? The wire comes out the side and says radarsonic on it. Pics are from ebay. the transducer is similar other than wire comes out the side not top or bottom.
Also this is a 4.3 inboard merc. the old transducer was glued on just below front of engine. I plan on putting in same cleaned up location. Boat is not in the water and holding it there i get no reading. Display says 0.0. If i put in a bucket of water and just let it dangle i can get a reading.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! I've thought of just taking it out and gluing it down out in the water. Assistant: | This is not the one but similar. the wire comes out the side. No way to attach to a trolling motor. Mine doesnt have the lip like this on the top butthat is where i say it is concave. | This is not the one but similar. the wire comes out the side. No way to attach to a trolling motor. Mine doesnt have the lip like this on the top butthat is where i say it is concave. | Any sign of water? Do a compression test. |
Human: So a few weeks ago I made a rookie mistake of leaving the key in on position and didn’t turn master battery switch to off. The next week couldn’t muster enough juice to turn it over. Tried charging the battery but couldn’t bring it back to life. Bought new battery yesterday and hooked up. However, I’m not getting anything when I turn the key one click, no fuel gauge movement, trim, etc. But when I turn the master power switch on, I can get radio, horn, fish finder to work. Does anyone know what may be causing this issue, what I should check?
2016 Nauticstar 203DC w/Yamaha 150 Assistant: | I'd suggest rechecking the work you did....cable ends clean....and tight?
If they are okay, check for a main fuse or circuit breaker.....If the battery's voltage has made it to the 'dash' (key switch), you may want to verify the switch functions (routes current to the RUN and START terminals... | I'd suggest rechecking the work you did....cable ends clean....and tight?
If they are okay, check for a main fuse or circuit breaker.....If the battery's voltage has made it to the 'dash' (key switch), you may want to verify the switch functions (routes current to the RUN and START terminals... | ok, so I put in thermostats, changed fuel pump, checked spark, and adjusted air screw to two turns out. idles fine, acceleration is kinda low. on top end, it is still starving for fuel. while running, if i squeeze the prime bulb, it picks up. almost like fuel pump is not pulling enough fuel. pick up tube has a screen on it, but it has nothing plugging it up. its clean. i have an electric fuel pump from my old boat. could this help or not a good idea? Also, while running, it will bog and serge as if it gets fuel to run, then loses it again. I'm waiting on an external fuel tank from a friend to try from a different tank. Until then, any other ideas as to what could be going on? |
Human: So a few weeks ago I made a rookie mistake of leaving the key in on position and didn’t turn master battery switch to off. The next week couldn’t muster enough juice to turn it over. Tried charging the battery but couldn’t bring it back to life. Bought new battery yesterday and hooked up. However, I’m not getting anything when I turn the key one click, no fuel gauge movement, trim, etc. But when I turn the master power switch on, I can get radio, horn, fish finder to work. Does anyone know what may be causing this issue, what I should check?
2016 Nauticstar 203DC w/Yamaha 150 Assistant: | Radio, horn and fish finder are not likely powered through the key switch. At least they shouldn't be. First check all of your fuses on the engine. | Radio, horn and fish finder are not likely powered through the key switch. At least they shouldn't be. First check all of your fuses on the engine. | Was there a question in that post? |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6 Assistant: | Double post | Double post | Re: Service Manual
It was the only 1992 4hp manual available, so I'm assuming its content applies to your model.
Take a look at #9 in this parts blow up, control engine. I have the number circled in red. This knob on the tiller is a friction control knob. Is it possible the knob is turned too far in the direction of less friction? Try turning the knob clockwise, if this is the direction to increase tiller handle friction. Turn counterclockwise if not.
I'd remove the carb intake and take a look at what's happening with the carb throttle plates and butterfly when you're engaging/disengaging choke, as well as when your turning tiller throttle. When choke is engaged, the carb butterfly should completely close, or if you engage only halfway then the butterfly should only close halfway, etc. As you turn tiller handle to increase/decrease throttle, you should see the throttle plates inside the carb move back and forth.
I really can't explain why rpms are increasing as you engage more choke, somehow acting as the throttle body. Who knows what has been tinkered with in the past with this engine. It's quite possible you'll need to disassemble the chokes articulating parts and tillers throttle cable, then reassemble following the service manual. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6 Assistant: | johnnygjr said:
Double post
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Johnny girl you are amazing to notice that. Please forgive me, I am a newbie and learning | johnnygjr said:
Double post
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Johnny girl you are amazing to notice that. Please forgive me, I am a newbie and learning | I see! You got it. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6 Assistant: | based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid..... | based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid..... | If you could find a temp gauge that reads off resistance instead of actual water temp (and of course it would need to be the same resistance specs as the installed temp alarm) it should read the resistance of the temp alarms and work ok.
I would probably install a water pressure gauge instead of a temp sensor. The pressure gauge is going to read regardless of water temp of course, where as a temp sensor is going to read at different temps while the engine runs depending on how warm/cold the surrounding water is. The pressure gauge would give you a better indication of the status of your water pump after you run the engine enough with a new water pump so you can see the "normal" max water pressure.
The draw back to a water pressure gauge is this; some impellers are small diameter (which mean they work by building up pressure) whereas other impellers are large diameter (which mean the work on volume of water). My 99 Yamaha SX150TXRX OX-66 uses the larger diameter impeller so of course it is designed to produce more volume of water vice higher pressure of water. Eitherway, you would be able to gain a sense of how the water pump is working. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6 Assistant: | makomark said:
based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid.....
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Thanks mako, I ran all new wires from battery to motor. Voltage went up but still not firing. I just don't have the equipment to troubleshoot motor so hauled it to macanic. Thanks for the input | makomark said:
based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid.....
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Thanks mako, I ran all new wires from battery to motor. Voltage went up but still not firing. I just don't have the equipment to troubleshoot motor so hauled it to macanic. Thanks for the input | a regulator should hold at about 14.8 volts...a rectifier only system will creep up....sometimes 16-17 volts and higher depending on the battery used...the battery should be the old type...non sealed..the kind you have to maintain with water level etc....take a multi meter and see exactly how high the voltage goes..has the fish finder just been added? |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6 Assistant: | ok..good luck | ok..good luck | I have seen the videos on that type of repair it is just an expensive band aid. You need to cut out all the dryrot and replace with new marine grade plywood then glassover it. If it's curved just laminate 1/4 inch pieces with hot glue then glass over it. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6. Motor will not crank HELP Assistant: | Is there a splice between your battery cables from the engine and the cables at the switch? | Is there a splice between your battery cables from the engine and the cables at the switch? | Need the model of the motor. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6. Motor will not crank HELP Assistant: | Docksidemarineservices said:
Is there a splice between your battery cables from the engine and the cables at the switch?
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Thanks I was wondering about that, I'll check that out tomorrow | Docksidemarineservices said:
Is there a splice between your battery cables from the engine and the cables at the switch?
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Thanks I was wondering about that, I'll check that out tomorrow | Nearly all lower units have a prop shaft seal x 2 (vacuum and pressure), a shift shaft seal, and a drive shaft seal x 1 (or 2). Figured it had to be the one you hadn't checked. Good luck with the repair. |
Human: I have a mercury optimax 225, I've bought new batteries ( 1000 mca) I have disconnected the hot cables off of the main cutoff switch and bolted all 3 together and still when I try to crank motor, voltage drops down to around 7.5. Using a voltage meter on the sienoid before trying to crank it reads right at 12.6. Motor will not crank HELP Assistant: | Are battery cables getting warm also? | Are battery cables getting warm also? | If they are not grounding they are working. If you have everything hooked up correctly, after you turn the key on with the engine off, the alarm should sound after a short period of time due to no oil pressure. |
Human: I am trying to check it using a stevens pva-1 peak voltage dva adaptor. but I can not get it to read any help you offer would be great Assistant: | Ayuh,.... What, 'n How are ya tryin' to test exactly,..?? | Ayuh,.... What, 'n How are ya tryin' to test exactly,..?? | That would sort of work but is not a great solution. It definitely sounds like your trim limit switch has failed. You could potentially set your trim at the desired planing attitude while in neutral and let the trim tabs give you stern lift on take off. But, this is not ideal because you won't be able to adjust while running if the conditions dictate it.
I don't know volvo penta systems but are you sure the part is discontinued? Maybe you could find a good used unit at a bone yard or on Ebay? |
Human: I am trying to check it using a stevens pva-1 peak voltage dva adaptor. but I can not get it to read any help you offer would be great Assistant: | Check with cdielectronics.com for trouble shooting procedures. | Check with cdielectronics.com for trouble shooting procedures. | V4 Yam's are 400lbs....so no, there isn't a V6 under 400lbs, let alone 200lbs. |
Human: No power to front fuse in motor fuse box, fuse is good but no power to fuse,what to do? Assistant: | Nicky, Backtrack from fuse box with your voltmeter to find open circuit,trace the power source | Nicky, Backtrack from fuse box with your voltmeter to find open circuit,trace the power source | The brakes are sold in pairs. You need to have one brake on one side and the other on the opposite side same axle. When done in salt water I always washed down the calipers when flushing the engine. The disc brake system I had installed was Tie Down's stainless system. |
Human: No power to front fuse in motor fuse box, fuse is good but no power to fuse,what to do? Assistant: | Post your question on the Yamaha Forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to the Yamaha outboard site. | Post your question on the Yamaha Forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to the Yamaha outboard site. | Spent about 4 hours on the boat today.When I first got there, naturally I tried starting it, and of course, this trailer queen fired right up. Like instantly. *&^%$#@!
Pulled the battery cables off completely. They're the original (appear to be original) and ridiculously long, #2 from what I can tell. I purchased 8ft of #4 Red and Black (pos and Neg, I know) prior to going to the boat or knowing for sure what size cable was on there, at West Marine (only thing open today and on the way). ICables I bought are a good 4 feet shorter than the cables I took off. I'm thinking I'm OK with what I bought, reduced length and one diameter smaller.
I didn't get it done as I need a smaller lug for the starter Solenoid (1/4") everything else was 5/16" Although I hit the ends with battery corrosion inhibitor before I crimped them, and wrapped them with elec tape, I still want to get shrink wrap and protective boots for them as well.
At the original Perko 4 way, Both positive cables going to each of the batteries were toast...severely corroded. Interesting thing I found there though...the Positive cables were #2 and the negative cable connecting the two batteries together was only #4. Not sure if that's a big problem or not. Not the way I would have done it though. If anything, I would go one larger, not smaller.
I did find one 16AWG wire right behind the batteries in the huge bundle, that had a small hole through the shielding and corrosion had all but completely eaten through the wire there. I cut the bad area out and spliced that back to together. Best I can tell, it was the the feed for the Float switch at the bilge. Previous owner did tell me that he added a fwd bilge pump, so I'm guessing that I found where he pierced the shielding to find the hot lead to the bilge.
I cut every zip tie,l undid every clamp, removed the flex plastic rigging tube, etc...everything I could do to break the wires as loose as possible from the motor along the transom to the battery hold.
I also removed the enclosure hiding all the wiring from under the dash. The wiring itself looked clean, but geezus was there alot of sawdust and other crud built up laying in the bottom of that enclosure. It was all dry, very dry. No corrosion to speak of. And not the rats nest of wiring that I was expecting either. It was nice and tidy, and "clean".
From the motor, I cleaned every strand of wire, fuel line, control cable, etc. Every one. The rigging tube was packed solid with greasy dirt, sand etc. It came off and out in chunks. The back of the boat was a mess. Nothing was chaffed though. I didn't find any other breaks in the wiring jackets, no corrosion, nothing.
The battery cable terminal ends at the motor side looked brand new. The battery side didn't look new, but they definitely didn't look bad.
Once again, I'm baffled. Kinda hard to trouble shoot, when it seems to run just fine, again. |
Human: No power to front fuse in motor fuse box, fuse is good but no power to fuse,what to do? Assistant: | Thank you for your reply. I think I found a faulty starter solenoid relay as it has 12.5 v to it but when turning the key on it drops to 5v. Removed it and ohms it
It would ohms and then it wouldn't so I ordered a new one from boats.net, electrical page 3 part number 21. I believe that this particular relay is prone to failure as the shaft on a spring wears out and does not make good contact. It lasted 15 years, that's not to bad. the first time I have had any repair for 15 years is lucky. | Thank you for your reply. I think I found a faulty starter solenoid relay as it has 12.5 v to it but when turning the key on it drops to 5v. Removed it and ohms it
It would ohms and then it wouldn't so I ordered a new one from boats.net, electrical page 3 part number 21. I believe that this particular relay is prone to failure as the shaft on a spring wears out and does not make good contact. It lasted 15 years, that's not to bad. the first time I have had any repair for 15 years is lucky. | Hello again Scott ::: That's would be wonderful, I'll contact you next week.... Lots of ice here--- not a huge hurry....(I hate winter)..
Thanks :: Dennis |
Human: No power to front fuse in motor fuse box, fuse is good but no power to fuse,what to do? Assistant: | Yep. That's a good record. You probably maintain that engine properly, so few problems. Glad you ID'ed the problem. Good for ya. | Yep. That's a good record. You probably maintain that engine properly, so few problems. Glad you ID'ed the problem. Good for ya. | Ayuh,..... Sounds like a fuel delivery issue,...... probably the carb,...... |
Human: I have upgraded my outboard engine from a 20 HP Mariner to a 2004 Mercury 25 HP long shaft. I did not have a battery on my old motor but did have controls for throttle and forward and reverse. I used to just pull start it. My new motor seems like it needs a battery or key to start it. It has a 8 pin plug in but only uses 6 of the pins. It does have a pull cord. I am wondering if anyone knows how I can continue to use my remote control cables for throttle and forward and reverse but put in a switch to be able to turn my motor off and on. I would continue to pull start it and not need a battery. Is this possible? I would appreciate any feed back a all. Assistant: | Post your question on the Mercury/Mariner Outboard forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to the Mercury/Mariner Outboard site. | Post your question on the Mercury/Mariner Outboard forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home" and scroll down to the Mercury/Mariner Outboard site. | Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box.
If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000. |
Human: I have upgraded my outboard engine from a 20 HP Mariner to a 2004 Mercury 25 HP long shaft. I did not have a battery on my old motor but did have controls for throttle and forward and reverse. I used to just pull start it. My new motor seems like it needs a battery or key to start it. It has a 8 pin plug in but only uses 6 of the pins. It does have a pull cord. I am wondering if anyone knows how I can continue to use my remote control cables for throttle and forward and reverse but put in a switch to be able to turn my motor off and on. I would continue to pull start it and not need a battery. Is this possible? I would appreciate any feed back a all. Assistant: | I did about a week ago and still no luck getting a answer. | I did about a week ago and still no luck getting a answer. | check the fuel tank vent.also could be the fuel pump not pumping.pull it to bits if you can and check for any dirt,you should be able to blow thru it,but not suck back.must admit my 3cyl 30hp 1992 does similar things,seems to starve at full throttle.tried all sorts. |
Human: I have upgraded my outboard engine from a 20 HP Mariner to a 2004 Mercury 25 HP long shaft. I did not have a battery on my old motor but did have controls for throttle and forward and reverse. I used to just pull start it. My new motor seems like it needs a battery or key to start it. It has a 8 pin plug in but only uses 6 of the pins. It does have a pull cord. I am wondering if anyone knows how I can continue to use my remote control cables for throttle and forward and reverse but put in a switch to be able to turn my motor off and on. I would continue to pull start it and not need a battery. Is this possible? I would appreciate any feed back a all. Assistant: | What is the serial number of the new motor? | What is the serial number of the new motor? | Amazing! That makes sense thank so much. Quick follow up question - any advice on the best approach to remove/replace the current one? |
Human: I have upgraded my outboard engine from a 20 HP Mariner to a 2004 Mercury 25 HP long shaft. I did not have a battery on my old motor but did have controls for throttle and forward and reverse. I used to just pull start it. My new motor seems like it needs a battery or key to start it. It has a 8 pin plug in but only uses 6 of the pins. It does have a pull cord. I am wondering if anyone knows how I can continue to use my remote control cables for throttle and forward and reverse but put in a switch to be able to turn my motor off and on. I would continue to pull start it and not need a battery. Is this possible? I would appreciate any feed back a all. Assistant: | http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quicksilver...ash=item464d212d0e:g:SaUAAOSw1DtXIMvK&vxp=mtr
Maybe something like this | http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quicksilver...ash=item464d212d0e:g:SaUAAOSw1DtXIMvK&vxp=mtr
Maybe something like this | I filled tank to the top with water and found a tiny leak. I wonder if JB weld would fix it? |
Human: what year did mercury switch to electronic ignition? I'm looking to buy a bowrider with 4.3 ltr. Assistant: | Post your question on the Mercury Outboard forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", then scroll down to Mercury. | Post your question on the Mercury Outboard forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", then scroll down to Mercury. | It should move fairly easy.
There's a grease fitting on the mid section.
However the grease in there is probably turned hard.
You can try adding new grease and use a heat gun to warm up the old grease
before adding new.
That helps wake up the old grease and helps move it out.
Heat it up for 10-15 min. before adding new.
If you use a propane torch, you can melt the plastic bushings at the top and bottom.
So don't get it too hot. |
Human: what year did mercury switch to electronic ignition? I'm looking to buy a bowrider with 4.3 ltr. Assistant: | Or is that a mercruiser? | Or is that a mercruiser? | chawk_man said:
I think just a rectifier/regulator. At least that is what was on my old Johnson 200.
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Yep, verified that this is correct. I felt like it had to be but didn't want to get the flywheel off and find a defective part that I didn't know was there! |
Human: what year did mercury switch to electronic ignition? I'm looking to buy a bowrider with 4.3 ltr. Assistant: | My bad. Didn't pay close attantion. Do the same thing I recommended, but scroll down to the Mercruiser forum. | My bad. Didn't pay close attantion. Do the same thing I recommended, but scroll down to the Mercruiser forum. | I've never heard of a faulty oil level sensor causeing a no spark situation. Does the starter engage when you key to "start" position? Have you checked all fuses including the fuses in the engine? |
Human: what year did mercury switch to electronic ignition? I'm looking to buy a bowrider with 4.3 ltr. Assistant: | Ayuh,.... As far as I know, the 4.3l Always has had the T-Bolt ignition,....
T-Bolt IV, then T-Bolt V,.... | Ayuh,.... As far as I know, the 4.3l Always has had the T-Bolt ignition,....
T-Bolt IV, then T-Bolt V,.... | Did you have a fuel leak prior to replacing fuel system components? I would suspect so. If you’ve ruled out the leak coming from the fuel pipes that connect carb and fuel pump, then yeah you’ll need to pull and open carbs.
Smoke from seafoam treatment is expected. Though the nasty stuff you mentioned in the water tank is coming from the cooling system, not from running seafoam. Wouldn’t run in tank anymore unless you wanna keep recirculating that junk thru the cooling system. |
Human: Need some troubleshooting help. All I have hooked to my starter is my motor. I noticed my battery would be drained completely dead the next day. After further investigation, I realized the motor was continuously pulling power even with the key in the off position, and pulling power even though the key is out of the ignition completely. What's my next step? Appreciate the help. Assistant: | What motor? What year? What HP?
Charge up your battery and disconnect the harness to your key switch and instruments from the motor. Then check to see if your battery is draining. If not, you have a short in your harness or key switch. If so, you have you have a short in your engine. If you have tilt/trim, it is often in those relays or the tilt trim wiring. | What motor? What year? What HP?
Charge up your battery and disconnect the harness to your key switch and instruments from the motor. Then check to see if your battery is draining. If not, you have a short in your harness or key switch. If so, you have you have a short in your engine. If you have tilt/trim, it is often in those relays or the tilt trim wiring. | I was trying to set the timing on a friends 15 yammy and noticed the same problem. Reading the manual I'm thinking that it wasn't going to full throttle because it was in neutral and there is a mechanism to stopping it over revving in neutral. I'll test this theory tomorrow and let you know what I find out. If yours isn't revving in gear there is a chance it may be a fault with this same mechanism. Failing that there is a chance that the teeth on the two shafts where the tiller bends are misaligned. This would mean undoing the two bolts on the cowling half to separate the teeth and let you re-align the two halves of the throttle linkage. This probably means turning the tiller end back towards idle so that it has more travel again. There are also stop screws under the cowling for idle and full throttle.
Stuart |
Human: Need some troubleshooting help. All I have hooked to my starter is my motor. I noticed my battery would be drained completely dead the next day. After further investigation, I realized the motor was continuously pulling power even with the key in the off position, and pulling power even though the key is out of the ignition completely. What's my next step? Appreciate the help. Assistant: | chawk_man said:
What motor? What year? What HP?
Charge up your battery and disconnect the harness to your key switch and instruments from the motor. Then check to see if your battery is draining. If not, you have a short in your harness or key switch. If so, you have you have a short in your engine. If you have tilt/trim, it is often in those relays or the tilt trim wiring.
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You may be right, because I forgot to mention in the post that my tilt/trim wasn't working. | chawk_man said:
What motor? What year? What HP?
Charge up your battery and disconnect the harness to your key switch and instruments from the motor. Then check to see if your battery is draining. If not, you have a short in your harness or key switch. If so, you have you have a short in your engine. If you have tilt/trim, it is often in those relays or the tilt trim wiring.
Click to expand...
You may be right, because I forgot to mention in the post that my tilt/trim wasn't working. | It looks like the stain on the sole (deck) is only on the portion that is "no-skid"- is this correct? |
Human: Hello, I have been having problems with my boat it was mostly working fine until I did a stupid move, I brought it home for the winder to fix it up for many reasons. But one being the wiper motor, it looked like there's were wires unplugged for the motor I fitted around with it for a few hours could seem to find out what's wrong. So I took it all apart and took the switch off and I also unplugged the inline fuse because it wasn't long enough, then I still couldnt figure out what was wrong with it, and in my eyes the colors for positive and negative looked back words so I switched them and turned the switch on and then it beeped like when you turn the key. The low fuel pressure beep, that goes out when you squize the fuel ball, it went on for about 1 second and got quiteer and the fuel gauge went a little bit higher (it was at full). Orginily my battery was dead, and it would beep and then right away slowly go quiter and only the radio and nav lights, as well as the fuel gauge and after the battery was charged and it would then turn over. Now the radio, nav lights only work the motor doesn't turn over and no beep, as like it was dead. I do know it's not the battery because today I just tried another battery. There is another problem as the wireing going into the throtel body three wires I would move them and the access lights would work. There is only one inline fuse and its still googoo, I have spent 3-4 days trieing to figure out what is wrong with it. I don't want to have to take it into the marina if I don't have to, as it expensive, any help appreciated. Assistant: | Ayuh,... Whatcha workin' on,..??
What motor,..??
What drive,..??
What year,..?? | Ayuh,... Whatcha workin' on,..??
What motor,..??
What drive,..??
What year,..?? | the OD will grow with the plug's thread size....perko and groco and maybe attwood would be starting points. 2 3/8 OD flanges appear available...MARELON is another option...
You can always fill the hole and redrill it to whatever size you need.
another option, if needed, would be to get a machinist to cut the 3" flange down to whatever you need...and maybe relocating the screw holes, too.
I would definitely 'rotate' the fitting and use new screw locations...and your favorite bedding compound...and use a thru-bolt for the bonding wire... |
Human: Hello, I have been having problems with my boat it was mostly working fine until I did a stupid move, I brought it home for the winder to fix it up for many reasons. But one being the wiper motor, it looked like there's were wires unplugged for the motor I fitted around with it for a few hours could seem to find out what's wrong. So I took it all apart and took the switch off and I also unplugged the inline fuse because it wasn't long enough, then I still couldnt figure out what was wrong with it, and in my eyes the colors for positive and negative looked back words so I switched them and turned the switch on and then it beeped like when you turn the key. The low fuel pressure beep, that goes out when you squize the fuel ball, it went on for about 1 second and got quiteer and the fuel gauge went a little bit higher (it was at full). Orginily my battery was dead, and it would beep and then right away slowly go quiter and only the radio and nav lights, as well as the fuel gauge and after the battery was charged and it would then turn over. Now the radio, nav lights only work the motor doesn't turn over and no beep, as like it was dead. I do know it's not the battery because today I just tried another battery. There is another problem as the wireing going into the throtel body three wires I would move them and the access lights would work. There is only one inline fuse and its still googoo, I have spent 3-4 days trieing to figure out what is wrong with it. I don't want to have to take it into the marina if I don't have to, as it expensive, any help appreciated. Assistant: | bondo said:
Ayuh,... Whatcha workin' on,..??
I'm working on a cadorette boat
What motor,..??
motor is a Johnson GT100 is motor. There is no drive it is all part of the motor
What year,..??
Click to expand...
I belive it's 1991 | bondo said:
Ayuh,... Whatcha workin' on,..??
I'm working on a cadorette boat
What motor,..??
motor is a Johnson GT100 is motor. There is no drive it is all part of the motor
What year,..??
Click to expand...
I belive it's 1991 | Wish the "edit" window was open longer. This "OMC Gasket Sealer" is still available:
http://www.amazon.com/OMC-Gasket-Sealing-Compound-508235/dp/B004H4HVFC
I have always (before and after the 1998 incident) used either waterproof grease or an appropriate "Never Seize" on Bolts and Nuts with never a problem like this.
The most popular 'Never Seize' is the Copper formula and that would bring galvanic corrosion to any use around Aluminum.
They also sell a Graphite formula which works well, but is messy and your Marine Service Tech will hate that you used it.
Probably the best for exhaust cover bolts would be the "Aluminum" formula version Never Seize.
Hoping for knowledgeable input here before I reach the point (if ever) of reassembly.
Art |
Human: Hello, I have been having problems with my boat it was mostly working fine until I did a stupid move, I brought it home for the winder to fix it up for many reasons. But one being the wiper motor, it looked like there's were wires unplugged for the motor I fitted around with it for a few hours could seem to find out what's wrong. So I took it all apart and took the switch off and I also unplugged the inline fuse because it wasn't long enough, then I still couldnt figure out what was wrong with it, and in my eyes the colors for positive and negative looked back words so I switched them and turned the switch on and then it beeped like when you turn the key. The low fuel pressure beep, that goes out when you squize the fuel ball, it went on for about 1 second and got quiteer and the fuel gauge went a little bit higher (it was at full). Orginily my battery was dead, and it would beep and then right away slowly go quiter and only the radio and nav lights, as well as the fuel gauge and after the battery was charged and it would then turn over. Now the radio, nav lights only work the motor doesn't turn over and no beep, as like it was dead. I do know it's not the battery because today I just tried another battery. There is another problem as the wireing going into the throtel body three wires I would move them and the access lights would work. There is only one inline fuse and its still googoo, I have spent 3-4 days trieing to figure out what is wrong with it. I don't want to have to take it into the marina if I don't have to, as it expensive, any help appreciated. Assistant: | Dukeboyty said:
I belive it's 1991
Click to expand...
Sorry read the quote... | Dukeboyty said:
I belive it's 1991
Click to expand...
Sorry read the quote... | that is what I am interested in. what is a better steering system and where should I start looking ? are there any steering assist assy. available, do I need to replace my assembly from my steering wheel to the engine ? I have no idea what direction to go ? |
Human: Hello, I have been having problems with my boat it was mostly working fine until I did a stupid move, I brought it home for the winder to fix it up for many reasons. But one being the wiper motor, it looked like there's were wires unplugged for the motor I fitted around with it for a few hours could seem to find out what's wrong. So I took it all apart and took the switch off and I also unplugged the inline fuse because it wasn't long enough, then I still couldnt figure out what was wrong with it, and in my eyes the colors for positive and negative looked back words so I switched them and turned the switch on and then it beeped like when you turn the key. The low fuel pressure beep, that goes out when you squize the fuel ball, it went on for about 1 second and got quiteer and the fuel gauge went a little bit higher (it was at full). Orginily my battery was dead, and it would beep and then right away slowly go quiter and only the radio and nav lights, as well as the fuel gauge and after the battery was charged and it would then turn over. Now the radio, nav lights only work the motor doesn't turn over and no beep, as like it was dead. I do know it's not the battery because today I just tried another battery. There is another problem as the wireing going into the throtel body three wires I would move them and the access lights would work. There is only one inline fuse and its still googoo, I have spent 3-4 days trieing to figure out what is wrong with it. I don't want to have to take it into the marina if I don't have to, as it expensive, any help appreciated. Assistant: | So it's a '91 Johnson Outboard,..??
If so, post yer question in the Johnson/ Rude outboard forum, above this forum on the main page,..... | So it's a '91 Johnson Outboard,..??
If so, post yer question in the Johnson/ Rude outboard forum, above this forum on the main page,..... | Is the motor mounted on the transom ?----------Is the motor mounted in a " lazarette " and not enuff fresh air? |
Human: ok i bought a harris flotebote used and i opened the bench seat in the back and there is a aproxx 4 x 4 inch blk box with a red wire coming from it
have nothing on it saying what it is does anyone no what it might be? Assistant: | Only one wire ?? | Only one wire ?? | Thanks Chris, I will inspect. Is this something that would only rap under load and not at idle? I don't notice the rap in neutral, only under load. |
Human: ok i bought a harris flotebote used and i opened the bench seat in the back and there is a aproxx 4 x 4 inch blk box with a red wire coming from it
have nothing on it saying what it is does anyone no what it might be? Assistant: | A flight data recorder,LOL,actually no idea,Couldn't resist, Trace red wire back to source and let us know, a picture might help solve this issue | A flight data recorder,LOL,actually no idea,Couldn't resist, Trace red wire back to source and let us know, a picture might help solve this issue | Finding out the correct name for part is 68F-8591B-00-00 yamaha driver Found a few used on ebay around $400. Has anybody heard of these going bad? This must be problem but I wish I could tell for sure. Thanks For Listening! John |
Human: I have a Lowrance elite combo which l am fitting to my 2100 Reagan bowrider. It is a fastback hull which is designed to run air under the rear of the hull.
whare should l mount the transducer? Assistant: | Have you looked into a thru hull transducer? You would need to cut a access hole in the deck and mold it into the hull just in front of the lowest part sitting in the water. | Have you looked into a thru hull transducer? You would need to cut a access hole in the deck and mold it into the hull just in front of the lowest part sitting in the water. | If you disconnect the cables and the rudder still won't move, it's likely you hit something and bent the rudder...
if the rudder swings free, the issue is in the steering system somewhere....could be the cable is worn out, corroded and bound up, or the steering head has an issue.. |
Human: I have a Lowrance elite combo which l am fitting to my 2100 Reagan bowrider. It is a fastback hull which is designed to run air under the rear of the hull.
whare should l mount the transducer? Assistant: | I didn't realise there was a difference until today. I will enquire at the shop today as to what they have | I didn't realise there was a difference until today. I will enquire at the shop today as to what they have | Sounds like too much weight up front to me. Maybe figure the weight of 12 gallons of fuel and put that much weight up there and see how the boat performs first. |
Human: I have a Lowrance elite combo which l am fitting to my 2100 Reagan bowrider. It is a fastback hull which is designed to run air under the rear of the hull.
whare should l mount the transducer? Assistant: | If its the HDI series it will mount on transom...... | If its the HDI series it will mount on transom...... | Treetime said:
Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results.
checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Repair made. Apparently the fuel line had a leak somewhere. I replaced the lines and everything works great. |
Human: I have a Lowrance elite combo which l am fitting to my 2100 Reagan bowrider. It is a fastback hull which is designed to run air under the rear of the hull.
whare should l mount the transducer? Assistant: | Fazt
True it can be mounted on the transome but from my understanding the design of the hull make it useless when on the plane. Lowrance have a transducer that can be mounted on the inside of the hull forward of the step for about $220, it is only a down scanner but l am leaning toward this option | Fazt
True it can be mounted on the transome but from my understanding the design of the hull make it useless when on the plane. Lowrance have a transducer that can be mounted on the inside of the hull forward of the step for about $220, it is only a down scanner but l am leaning toward this option | try this:http://postimg.org/image/7pvuvvi7l/ |
Human: I have a Lowrance elite combo which l am fitting to my 2100 Reagan bowrider. It is a fastback hull which is designed to run air under the rear of the hull.
whare should l mount the transducer? Assistant: | If you only going to use the down imaging go with a cheaper unit... | If you only going to use the down imaging go with a cheaper unit... | Donaldjohn said:
Motor sounds good....goes up just fine...comes down good until it gets to the trim at which point it goes very very slow
Click to expand...
Try bringing your motor all the way up, lock it, loosen the manual release screw, manually lower and raise your motor a few times, then tighten screw back up with motor up. |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | myself.......i would take them home | myself.......i would take them home | "Trent,
Had the same proble
"Trent,
Had the same problem. I was lucky that my fishing partner was a mechanic. It was a stuck float. Need to drain float bowl which sometimes works. I disassembeled the carb to see if there was trash causing the stick. No trash. The carb is easy to take off with socket. I keep tools for disassmbly with me at all times.
Herb" |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | Place batteries on a block of wood,not on concrete,preferably in an area that's not going to freeze and put a trickle charger on them | Place batteries on a block of wood,not on concrete,preferably in an area that's not going to freeze and put a trickle charger on them | tilting the motor out a notch, will it in essence plane the boat level ?
Click to expand...
Ayuh,.... Try each hole til ya find the one that works best,.... |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | dgross said:
First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries?
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks for the feedback! | dgross said:
First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries?
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks for the feedback! | Ayuh,.... You'll get better answers if ya post in the Johnson/ Evinrude Outboard forum |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | I would just make sure they're fully charged, disconnect them and leave them in the boat for the winter. If they're any good they'll be okay in the spring. | I would just make sure they're fully charged, disconnect them and leave them in the boat for the winter. If they're any good they'll be okay in the spring. | Moeller Yamaha paint $55.00 a 12oz can
in Canada. |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | It really depends on the charge state of the battery, the health of the battery, and the outside temperature. A fully charged, new or nearly new battery will not freeze until about minus 75 F. A fully discharged battery will freeze at 32 F - the same as water. If the battery is not new, and/or there is a possibility of even one cell being weak, then it would be best to remove them and store them in a dry place where the temperatures will not get below zero. | It really depends on the charge state of the battery, the health of the battery, and the outside temperature. A fully charged, new or nearly new battery will not freeze until about minus 75 F. A fully discharged battery will freeze at 32 F - the same as water. If the battery is not new, and/or there is a possibility of even one cell being weak, then it would be best to remove them and store them in a dry place where the temperatures will not get below zero. | WadeF said:
I'm rewiring the dash controls and gauges on my '97 Bass Tracker TX-17. There's a five wire connector that runs from under the dash to the ignition box: black, grey, brown w/white line, purple, and tan w/blue line. The grey is the hot and the black is ground which leaves the other three. I believe they are for the tach and speedometer. Can anyone verify this and tell me which one goes where?
Click to expand...
Ayuh,... Purple is usually the Ignition,...
Grey is usually the tach feed,...
Tan, 'n Blue is usually alarm wires...
'n, I have no idea what the brown, 'n white is... |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | If a battery has a weak cell in it it's not worth keeping over the winter. It will fail on you next summer at the wrong time. | If a battery has a weak cell in it it's not worth keeping over the winter. It will fail on you next summer at the wrong time. | Look real closely at the ignition switch where the key goes in. You should find a number on it. Take that number to any OMC dealer and he should be able to find a key for you. |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | chawk_man said:
It really depends on the charge state of the battery, the health of the battery, and the outside temperature. A fully charged, new or nearly new battery will not freeze until about minus 75 F. A fully discharged battery will freeze at 32 F - the same as water. If the battery is not new, and/or there is a possibility of even one cell being weak, then it would be best to remove them and store them in a dry place where the temperatures will not get below zero.
Click to expand...
Thanks, this will help! My deep cycle battery might be going bad so I will be testing them all just to be sure. | chawk_man said:
It really depends on the charge state of the battery, the health of the battery, and the outside temperature. A fully charged, new or nearly new battery will not freeze until about minus 75 F. A fully discharged battery will freeze at 32 F - the same as water. If the battery is not new, and/or there is a possibility of even one cell being weak, then it would be best to remove them and store them in a dry place where the temperatures will not get below zero.
Click to expand...
Thanks, this will help! My deep cycle battery might be going bad so I will be testing them all just to be sure. | well i misspoke. it is a two stroke. I checked the compression all three were 80 psi. there was about half a quart of oil in the lower end, and it was black. i filled it half way up and ran the motor to try to clean it out. Drained it and filled it with new oil from the bottom plug till it came out the top plug. it almost took a entire circle jug. sorry i dont remember how much that is. |
Human: First time winterizing this houseboat. Is it better to leave the batteries in the boat with a multistage charger for the winter or should I remove them and take them home to keep charged? I have one deep cycle battery and two other regular marine batteries? Assistant: | this is the same advice given to our yard by a battery manufacturer. we pulled a lot of batteries every year, tried it as told, just made sure fully charged, in the spring the battery was good if it cranked, bad if not, dont do it any other way now. | this is the same advice given to our yard by a battery manufacturer. we pulled a lot of batteries every year, tried it as told, just made sure fully charged, in the spring the battery was good if it cranked, bad if not, dont do it any other way now. | Picture attempt |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | house battery, Circuit should be fused | house battery, Circuit should be fused | Attached is a photo of the corroded water pressure sensor. Just trying to figure out what I need to order. Thank you!
https://ibb.co/dkT2NJP
https://ibb.co/KGL78TD |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | Thanks Johnny , Iv fused all circuts . So you only run the motors starter off the starter batt ? | Thanks Johnny , Iv fused all circuts . So you only run the motors starter off the starter batt ? | Hi Chris
I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad? |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | you got it | you got it | Use an ACR or VSR (same thing but different name from different brands). Blue Seas, BEP are two common ones. You will lose a lot of charge if you use diode isolators due to the losses in them. There are I believe also some types of lossless isolators available now but I haven't played with one yet. |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | Looks like I may have fried my trim relay harnesses while replacing relays. Forgot to undo battery and when
changing out relays the harness started to smoke. I immediately pulled relay and unhooked battery.
just wondering if I need to replace just the harnesses and relays or everything in the relay box?
Harnesses look like they somewhat melted. Any suggestions on how to repair is appreciated.
1990 Evinrude 60 HP motor. | Looks like I may have fried my trim relay harnesses while replacing relays. Forgot to undo battery and when
changing out relays the harness started to smoke. I immediately pulled relay and unhooked battery.
just wondering if I need to replace just the harnesses and relays or everything in the relay box?
Harnesses look like they somewhat melted. Any suggestions on how to repair is appreciated.
1990 Evinrude 60 HP motor. | MV. I understand your issue, but it seems to me that your better setup is to have a two battery system with a three-way battery switch - battery A, both, battery B. Battery A is your cranking battery, battery B is your deep cycle battery for powering cabin and accessories, and the 8 hp trolling motor. Switch to B when you are trolling. Switch to both when you are starting the main engine, which with that 60+ amp alternator will charge both batteries easily. I have that setup, but without the trolling motor and have never had a problem with discharging the B battery too much, even while running a mapGPS, fish finder, 2 VHF radios, a Surius XM weather receiver, and occasional use of the wash down pump.
But, again. You'll likely get a better response from the Yamaha Forum on this site. |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | Check ends of each wire in harness with ohm meter for continuity | Check ends of each wire in harness with ohm meter for continuity | Send an email with your issues to simyamaha... There used to be guy there who posted on this forum quite a bit and could diagnose about everything. Think his name may have been "Chris". He's the one who led me to that damn VST filter in my F115 Yammy after I had checked everything I could... Of course, there's no mention of that stupid filter in the owner's manual! |
Human: Running wires for trim pump , do I go to the starter batt or house batt ? Im running a 2 batt system do I run everything from house or somethings from house and some from starter ( like bilge pump ) ? Assistant: | tomedee said:
Looks like I may have fried my trim relay harnesses while replacing relays. Forgot to undo battery and when
changing out relays the harness started to smoke. I immediately pulled relay and unhooked battery.
just wondering if I need to replace just the harnesses and relays or everything in the relay box?
Harnesses look like they somewhat melted. Any suggestions on how to repair is appreciated.
1990 Evinrude 60 HP motor.
Click to expand...
You need to start your own thread it is not polite to hyjack a thread it makes it confusing. Model and year help to make the responses better. | tomedee said:
Looks like I may have fried my trim relay harnesses while replacing relays. Forgot to undo battery and when
changing out relays the harness started to smoke. I immediately pulled relay and unhooked battery.
just wondering if I need to replace just the harnesses and relays or everything in the relay box?
Harnesses look like they somewhat melted. Any suggestions on how to repair is appreciated.
1990 Evinrude 60 HP motor.
Click to expand...
You need to start your own thread it is not polite to hyjack a thread it makes it confusing. Model and year help to make the responses better. | racerone said:
Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ?
Click to expand...
IMO it looks like it had a bend in the rod. |
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