qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
11,210 | Recycling a Robin Nano board to build a 3D printer using an old computer PSU (300 W), it only boots on when I have no endstops pugged in at all or if I trigger all the ones I have plugged. At the moment I release them the screen goes off (but the fan of the PSU is still on). Does anyone have any clue about what's going on ? | [
{
"answer_id": 11414,
"author": "Cobactan",
"author_id": 14785,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14785",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It ended up I had like super cheap endstops that were actually shorting VCC to GND, as suspected by r\\_ahlskog... | 2019/10/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11210",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14785/"
] |
11,212 | I have an Epax X1, I have just purchased the 2nd and 3rd bottle of resin, but I don't know what are the best settings.
What is the best way to find the best settings for a new resin?
Is it possible to print a calibration object that starts with some settings and changes as it goes? For example starts with 12 seconds and decreases half second every 5 mm?
**EDIT**
The 2 resins I am dealing with right now are [Nova3D](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0794RQPJ5) and [Elegoo](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FCMM2S7). Any help with those two resins would help right now, but I would love to have a more generic answer that would allow me to explore and troubleshoot any resin without asking every time. | [
{
"answer_id": 11414,
"author": "Cobactan",
"author_id": 14785,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14785",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It ended up I had like super cheap endstops that were actually shorting VCC to GND, as suspected by r\\_ahlskog... | 2019/10/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11212",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18857/"
] |
11,218 | I have an Ender 3 Pro with upgraded Bowden capricorn tube. The tube will move approximately 1-2 mm during normal operation, though it will not come out of the coupler at all. I have read that the movement if unchanging (constant movement of 1-2 mm) can be compensated for with settings adjustment to avoid retraction issues such that it will extrude or retract "that much less"... I do not understand how this is possible...
Im confused by comments that a slipping Bowden tube on the extruder side *only*, say by up to 2 mm, is "lost retraction"... I have this problem too with the Bowden tube *only* at the extruder end, not the hotend, and wonder if it is really an issue at all. Here's why...
The filament is in direct contact with the gear and wheel of the extruder. *If* the Bowden tube is *only* moving in/out of the extruder end of the coupler, there are no "gaps" being created to cause leakage of the filament, etc on the hot end...As the extruder is either pushing or retracting, the filament *inside* the tube is still moving as much as intended regardless of the amount of play of the Bowden tube... no? therefore, retracting will not be affected at all, nor would the extruding process. Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would be?
Note, I can see that this movement may cause under-extrusion on the feeding side process, as the machine is expecting say, 0.5 mm extrusion, but then has to compensate (unknowingly) for the slipping *out* tube during the "push", so not enough gets "out", but should not affect the retraction amount as the filament is still being *pulled* directly from the gears/roller.
Am I wrong and if so, can someone explain to me how this would affect the *retraction* along with the under-extrusion? | [
{
"answer_id": 11219,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "The slipping does result in lost retraction distance. It does not result in underextrusion, l... | 2019/10/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11218",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18900/"
] |
11,228 | I'm working with an older MakerBot Replicator clone, actually a Flashforge Creator 1, with original Creator firmware.
* I'm able to design objects, using Solidworks, and exporting the file as xxx.stl (ascii)
* Then I use Slic3r to generate tool paths with output as xxx.gcode
* finally, I use [GPX UI](https://markwal.github.io/GpxUi/) to generate a xxx.x3g file.
I don't understand where on the build plate the print starts. Is that controlled by the 3d printer's firmware values, or something else in the chain from .stl --> .gcode --> x3g ?? Right now my prints start in the corner nearest 0,0.0, instead of in the middle of the build plate.
How do I control where to place the 3d print on the build plate?
edit: Apologies for the delay. As a result of the answers posted here, I did a whole bunch more testing. The initial response from @mick, seems to indicate that what you see in the SlovenTf preview is what you'll see on the print bed. That makes sense, but **that is definitely not what I'm seeing**. I definitely don't see anywhere anything that remotely looks like a check the box [] center. Here's what I do see:
When I drop the object into Slic3r, it goes to middle of build plate.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNiWQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFgvU.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LLqrd.jpg)
Unfortunately here's what gets printed.
Attempt #1, off in space
========================
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IkzsV.jpg)
Attempt #2, Right Hand Margin
=============================
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJATD.jpg)
Attempt #3, Near the front.
===========================
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3aLM.jpg)
I tried moving the print head to center of build plate, thinking that might be a logical start point. No go. Print start moves head to home (rear right corner of print bed) then after elements heat up to temp, it seems to select a random spot on the build plate to start. I never touched the .x3g file between these attempts. So I'm right back to where I started, per the title of this posting "What determines print start location on the build plate?" | [
{
"answer_id": 11229,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It sounds like you have \"Origin at center\" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used... | 2019/10/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11228",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5014/"
] |
11,239 | My recently installed BLTouch probe regularly fails to perform ABL properly. There seem to be 3-4 failure modes:
1. Probe manages some points but fails partway through, with a "probing failed" message on the LCD screen, rendering it necessary to power-cycle the printer
2. Probe deploys on some point, then stows itself immediately, and treats that point as being a centimeter or two about where it actually is.
3. Probe completes all 9 points, then heats the nozzle in the back corner and never moves. The progress bar on the LCD counts up and eventually it claims to have finished the print, but the steppers (including the extruder) never move.
4. Probe flashes red throughout the cycle, which I believe means it failed a self-test probably because the mainboard started trying to speak to it before it was initialized, but occasionally when this occurs, it still works as expected.
For avoidance of doubt - sometimes it actually does work, and I get beautiful prints that adhere well during printing but are easily removed afterwards. And I have never had any issues with the Z homing using the probe, only the auto mesh levelling.
My setup:
* Creality Ender 3
* v1.1.4 mainboard with non-silent steppers
* genuine BLTouch v3, with official Creality pin27 kit
* Marlin 1.1.9 bugfix firmware, downloaded as hex file
* single iteration of probing
* 9 point levelling mesh
* Ultimaker Cura slicer 4.2.0
* Start G-code heats bed, homes `G28`, performs ABL `G29`, then heats nozzle (I don't have the actual G-code on my now as I'm away from my slicing computer)
[Related question: [BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345/bl-touch-probing-fails-intermittently) but answers do not apply as I am already using bugfix firmware and have checked all the cabling and connections] | [
{
"answer_id": 11229,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It sounds like you have \"Origin at center\" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used... | 2019/10/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11239",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12718/"
] |
11,261 | I have built a 3D printer with Manmil bugfix-2.0.x forked from github.
I am attempting to set the default value for junction deviation so that I don't have to change it through the printer's screen/interface every time I power cycle the printer, but what I thought would set it properly isn't doing the trick.
My thought was that uncommenting this in Configuration\_adv.h would work:
```
#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM 0.02
```
I have tried setting this define inside of and outside of the default `if` block in which it appears, just to make sure the issue wasn't because I didn't have something else set, and I get the same behavior when this `define` statement is either protected or unprotected by an `if`
Also, the default `if` block is this:
```
#if ENABLED( JUNCTION_DEVIATION )
#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM 0.02
#endif
```
Uncommenting `#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION` leaves me with a compiler error telling me that I don't need to do that, so I'm not seeing anything that I am supposed to enable to get it to use the JUNCTION\_DEVIATION\_MM setting. In other words, I can't actually enable "JUNCTION\_DEVIATION" any more, so I HAVE to break the JUNCTION\_DEVIATION\_MM setting out of the `if` but it still has no effect.
After setting this parameter, when I power cycle the printer, the junction deviation is set to 0 (although one touch of the adjustment knob makes it jump to 0.010, so I think that what is displayed as "0" may actually mean "unset"), which is causing a significant stop/start jerk on every angle change until I manually set the junction deviation.
My current [Configuration.h](https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Manmil/blob/printerx/Manmil/Configuration.h) and [Configuration\_adv.h](https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Manmil/blob/printerx/Manmil/Configuration_adv.h) are taken from [this Manmil fork](https://github.com/appideasDOTcom/Manmil/tree/printerx/Manmil).
In case it matters, I'm running this on an SKR V1.3 with TMC2208 drivers at 24V.
Any ideas what I'm missing? I'm sure it's something simple, I just haven't found it.
**UPDATE:** Still no solution after 10 days. Here is additional information from another forum where I posted this request:
>
> Did you run `M502` and `M500` after updating your firmware?
>
>
>
I dug into this a little more, and I am either running into a bug, or I'm simply not understanding what I'm supposed to be seeing.
I send this command:
`M205 J0.020`
Then verify that junction deviation is set correctly (it is)
Then this:
`M500`
And that responds with:
`Settings Stored (616 bytes; crc 51371)`
Then I send this:
`M503`
And the report for M205 is missing the setting I just confirmed to have changed and been working:
`...
M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00
...`
And power cycling or resetting the controller leads to the same result: Junction Deviation is reset to 0.
Shouldn't I see "J0.020" in the M205 line immediately after changing the setting, and verifying that it works? | [
{
"answer_id": 11774,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": true,
"text": "I've bought an SKR Pro V1.1 which is suffering from the same problem. It has actually to do with a shortcoming or des... | 2019/10/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11261",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18989/"
] |
11,265 | I have a Printrboard rev. D which includes Allegro A4982 drivers. I would like to replace them, but it appears that newer TMC drivers all require several pins for proper operation.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZnRf5.png)
How can I upgrade the drivers in the Printrboard rev. D? | [
{
"answer_id": 11292,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "You can't. In fact, pretty much all boards with directly soldered drivers are not upgradable.\n\nI'd recommend to b... | 2019/10/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11265",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338/"
] |
11,270 | I am printing ABS in an enclosure and most of the prints have worked out well with minor tweaking. However, the top layer always seems to split or skip a step (not sure which).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtGE7.jpg "Split top layer")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXANy.jpg "Layer was peeled of on previous prints")
The cube is sliced in Ultimaker Cura 4.3.0 with 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm nozzle, 80 °C bed on lexan and a 235 °C hotend.
The G-code to the calibration cube/chep's calibration cube is attached: [`PI3XL_CHEPCalibrationCube.gcode`](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GekxfKeUgv337_r0DeJ6_2JTWV_fT1_R/view?usp=sharing).
While I'm on the subject of slicing and calibration my calibration angle is coming out as before in Simplify3D, this time the layers look great but the onion skinning within the print itself so I could actually separate the calibration angle like an onion. | [
{
"answer_id": 15991,
"author": "ninja20",
"author_id": 27605,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/27605",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Personally, I have dealt with this problem myself! I messed around with the slicer a little bit, and I found tha... | 2019/10/31 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11270",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19004/"
] |
11,272 | I know this will be a really obvious question to some people, but I have bricked about 3 boards doing this so I want to be certain before I brick a fourth. I don't have a lot of experience working with AC voltage, especially crimping / hacking it like what's going on here. Trust me it was my last resort to ask this.
Basically, as a chamber heater I'm using some 120V heat lamps (here in the U.S.). The problem seems to be that when I connect my laptop to the board (if the laptop is plugged in, which it has to be for long-term serial control), sometimes I:
1. Hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried
2. Don't hear an electric shock sound -- the board is fried, though
What I interpret from this is that I'm stupidly wiring the 120V heat lamps incorrectly relative to my 3D printer board, such that when I connect it to my charging laptop via USB, the AC voltages are out of phase, causing my board to be fried. Alternatively, it's the 12V/24V power supply that's wired wrong relative to everything else, which also needs to be wired to the same polarity.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPD8v.png)
I was on the understanding that when crimping a three-wire male electrical cord:
1. White = Neutral
2. Black = Hot (or Load)
3. Green = Ground
... reinforced on the left side of the below image as well:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgeRE.png)
So, I know that much already. **The question is**, when I connect this AC outlet to a [relay](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00LW15D1M) like this, I got `NO`, `COM`, `NC` on one side and `IN`, `DC+`, `DC-` on the other. Which wire goes to `COM`, and which goes to `D-`? The board uses `COM` to denote the voltage that is switched 'on' by the relay, and `D-` to denote whatever the shared ground is among, the 3D printer, heat lamp, printer board, etc... (For more info, see link to relay)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuc81.png)
This 5V relay says it supports AC loads being managed by an arduino / 3D printer, so I was under the impression that I could connect the white wire to its `D-` pin (which also should receive the "GND" for my 3D printer board) and the black wire to its `COM` pin. However, what do I do about the green wire? Nothing? Also, was it wrong for me to assume it would support this function when the Arduino is connected to a charging laptop via USB?
Basically, I just need to be sure that my laptop (3-prong), power supply (3-prong), heat lamps (2 or 3 prong) and relay (only 2-prong) all have matching polarities and don't cause an electric shock or fry my board. But I am getting really conflicting results and frying a lot of boards, probably by overthinking this. | [
{
"answer_id": 11273,
"author": "r_ahlskog",
"author_id": 14957,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14957",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "You need to take a step back and think about what you are doing. From what I read there you are connecting the... | 2019/11/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11272",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/"
] |
11,278 | I got a Wanhao Duplicator 6 printer branded as a Monoprice Ultimate about a year an and a half ago, 6 months after I got it I decided I hated the buildplate (I had to use a gluestick on every print to get it to stay down) so I removed the original fake buildtak, and got a piece of borosilicate glass and a sheet of PEI that I attached to it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yl5Ns.jpg "Glass buildplate on top of aluminum bed, covered with PEI")
After about 8 months I started noticing issues with my bed being weird and never really being level no matter how much time I spent leveling it. (I level my buildplate by printing giant concentric circles, comparing the thickness based on the color in different portions, and turning knobs based on that.) Today after an hour of trying to level my bed I decided to just print the model I was going to print anyways (a pyramid model) and discovered why it never seemed level.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q5hTb.jpg "A single printed layer of gold silk PLA from tty3d")
It seems that different portions of my buildplate are at significantly different heights. Is there something I did wrong to cause this to happen, does it just happen over time, and is there anything I can do to fix it? My current plan is just to buy another sheet of the PEI and stick it directly to the aluminum buildplate installed on the printer. It would result in MUCH better thermal transfer between the heater and the PEI anyways, which is important because the whole point of PEI is that it sticks to PLA extremely well at high temperatures, and not very well at low temps.
If nobody knows what might cause this I'm just going to go ahead and get an new sheet of PEI and omit the glass (it was a bad idea anyways). Thanks for reading. | [
{
"answer_id": 11508,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "From experience, my PEI sheet did not stay flat after multiple use, this may be causing the problems you are facing.... | 2019/11/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11278",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19013/"
] |
11,285 | I have a basic Creality Ender-3 with a black rough bed cover. I'm printing with PLA.
After assembly, I printed 3 or 4 small toys sliced by Cura with basic settings. All were printed very well!
However, after that, extruded filament would not stick to the bed. I tried the following:
* Bed calibration with A4 paper (each corner with a tight nozzle to paper and repeated calibration again)
* Once raised up the bed temperature from stock 50 to 60 °C
* Washed the bed with a soap and water (and dried)
* Sprayed with a hair spray
* Changed the filament
Nothing helped so far.
What else can I try? | [
{
"answer_id": 11286,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 5,
"selected": true,
"text": "I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may hav... | 2019/11/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11285",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19035/"
] |
11,290 | So while doing some research I stumbled upon a [wiki page on reprap](https://reprap.org/wiki/Wnass_Nozzles#Step_1_Assemble_Parts_and_Tools) from a few years back where the user was creating a glass nozzle to replace the brass and PTFE assembly.[1](https://reprap.org/wiki/Wnass_Nozzles#Step_1_Assemble_Parts_and_Tools)
Does anyone know the theory behind this? Wnass is a great insulator so I could see how that would be beneficial for the heat break part but I can't see how it is appropriate for the nozzle as this is normally brass which is a good conductor.
Surely the glass takes much more energy to heat up?
On a side note I've seen similar projects using ceramic instead. | [
{
"answer_id": 11291,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Ceramic I can understand - very strong, great thermal range capability. Glass not so much - you'd need some ... | 2019/11/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11290",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19038/"
] |
11,300 | I recently got a Creality Ender-3, and tried printing a few things for some tests. I’ve printed a cube and just printed a cylindrical tube today, and I notice each time, it adds this random line on the left and a sort of outline around the actual print. Neither of these were there in my Cura file, but they’re always printed and I’m not sure why?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyhGh.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11303,
"author": "Mayoogh Girish",
"author_id": 17500,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17500",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The outline around the actual print is called **Skirts**. and the random line on the left is called **int... | 2019/11/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19062/"
] |
11,314 | According to the instructions I have read, you use the same output on the printers mainboard to control a 110 V heated bed with a solid state relay, as you do to power the 12/24 V heated bed that comes with the printer.
The relay's datasheet states that its max input current is 25 mA, obviously a 12/24 V heated bed would draw a lot more than that.
How does Marlin know that the heated bed pins are controlling a relay now instead of a bed directly, and therefore should limit their current output?
In other words: I am worried that if I just drop in the relay, it will burn up since the board still thinks it needs to supply high current to the bed. | [
{
"answer_id": 11315,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "There are two current parameters which you are looking at in your instructions for the solid state relay. The ... | 2019/11/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11314",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13829/"
] |
11,321 | I am trying to increase the flow rate on my Ender 3 from 100 to 108 % but every time I start a new print it reverts back to the old 100 % flow rate. I have clicked through the settings and pressed the "store settings" button but it still reverts back at the start of every print. I don't want to do this in my slicer settings as I run 18 Ender 3's so I want to be able to use the same G-code for each. | [
{
"answer_id": 11330,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Changing the **flow rate** during a print can **not** be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a f... | 2019/11/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11321",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17480/"
] |
11,331 | I understand the principle of why a heater block is used. Helping to reduce temperature variation as the filament is extruded using the heat capacity of the block.
But I’m wondering why it takes the form it does? I imagine it is cuboid in shape just for convenience as it’s easy to machine?
From a surface area to volume ratio a cuboid appears to be one of the worst shapes to use.
Note:
I am currently doing a project which requires me to increase the tool clearance of the nozzle of a 3D printer. Hence why I am exploring alternative print head configurations and heater block design trying to minimise the profile of the print head as much as possible. | [
{
"answer_id": 11330,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Changing the **flow rate** during a print can **not** be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a f... | 2019/11/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11331",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19038/"
] |
11,338 | I just order myself an Ender 3 Pro which will come by the end of the week.
Before it arrives I want to be ready to flash a bootloader onto it.
I was wondering what other options there are to flashing except using an Arduino?
I have a bunch of ESP8266/ESP32 and a [USB to TTL](https://www.banggood.com/FT232RL-FTDI-USB-To-TTL-Serial-Converter-Adapter-Module-For-Arduino-p-917226.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN). Would it be possible to use these somehow instead of an Arduino to flash a bootloader to the Ender 3?
Or should I just go buy an Arduino? | [
{
"answer_id": 11339,
"author": "Roberto Lo Giacco",
"author_id": 13989,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13989",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "What you need to is called a ICSP or ISP: [in-circuit serial programmer or in-system programmer](https... | 2019/11/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11338",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19122/"
] |
11,351 | I know that `M73 P19` means "Set completion progress to 19%", and I suspect that `M73 R42` means "Set remaining time to 42 minutes", but what is `M73 Q17 S43`? I can't find description of such syntax.
The command is seen in `.gcode` files produced by PrusaSlicer. | [
{
"answer_id": 11352,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The tooltip for \"Supports remaining times\" under `Printer Settings -> General -> Firmware`in PrusaSlicer quotes:\... | 2019/11/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11351",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14259/"
] |
11,356 | Is there a classification of method of control most (FDM) 3D printers fall under?
From a 1986robotics textbookref I was reading they defined three classes of control:
1) Pick and place
2) Point to point
3) Continuous path
However, both point to point and continuous path control are stated as requiring servo motors.
I know that the majority of 3D printers are actuated with stepper motors as opposed to servo. Does the continuous path classification still apply? Or is there another classification?
ref - *[Todd, D.J.(Ed.):Fundamentals of Robot Technology: An Introduction to Industrial Robots, Teleoperators and Robot Vehicles - Kogan Page 1986](https://www.springer.com/gp/book/9789401167703)* | [
{
"answer_id": 11357,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "The question is if robots classification terminology the textbook sketches applies to 3D printing?\n\nServos (closed... | 2019/11/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11356",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19038/"
] |
11,360 | The extruder on my Prosi i3 MK3S keeps clogging while printing. Loading is fine, and each time it clogs, unloading and loading the filament seems to work.
The filament extruded just after resolving a clog looks like it has small bubbled on it.
The problem only seems to happen when printing certain models. Printing the Bixxan symbol at 0.15 mm works every time. But the model I'm trying to print always fails at most a few minutes in.
I've tried cleaning the nozzle. Cold pull twice, and taken it out and heated it with my airgun and trying to work on it with the acupuncture needle.
The print that fails is [this "Small Pill Container"](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3211975) with 0.1 mm layer height and 100 % infill, but printing a simple cylinder shape (25 mm outer diameter, 2.5 mm walls) creates the same problem. Trying to print them both at the same slicer settings with 0.15 mm layer height still fails.
The model was sliced using the newest version of ProsiSlicer 2.1.0 and printed with Prosiment PLA at the factory recommended 215±10 °C, and tried 220 °C.
Any ideas what could be happening? Anybody experienced a similar issue?
Printing the bundled TreeFrog 50 μm sliced by Prosi for the Prosi I3 MK3S cased the same problem. Jam happened about 30 min in. I guess this rules out slicer problems as the root cause.
---
*After a lot of research, it seems a lot of people have problems with the MK3 clogging, especially with PLA, and especially with prints with a lot of retractions. The issue seems to be the design of the heat-break, which has a throat between 2.2 mm and 2 mm, where the PLA can get stuck. I've ordered a new heatbreak. Please read [this answer of my findings](/a/11409).* | [
{
"answer_id": 11365,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged ti... | 2019/11/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11360",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19133/"
] |
11,361 | In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10 mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.
I watched the entire Kraken assembly video:
There was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The [E3D Kraken assembly wiki page](https://wiki.e3d-online.com/Kraken_Assembly) may refer to this part as the "stainless plug".
Does the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?
Why was it included in the design at all?
I'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.
The video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats.  | [
{
"answer_id": 11365,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged ti... | 2019/11/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11361",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/"
] |
11,369 | For a model that has raised text on it, how do go about painting the very top layer of text, to make it stand out from the background? Lets say I printed the whole model the same color, what type of paint would work well, and not get on the background too?
Here's an example of a model that has raised text: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3025280> | [
{
"answer_id": 11370,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "The technique you look for is *drybrushing* and not dependant on a specific type of color, as long as it can be appl... | 2019/11/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11369",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18961/"
] |
11,381 | I've been printing with my Ender 3 for a while now and it's been great. I've had very few problems - depending on my settings, these are my typical first layers:[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGhr1.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/26XCJ.jpg)
However with no settings or temperature changes and attempting to print the same files, I am now getting this issue with every print - The lines lay down and adhere fine, but if I watch carefully it looks as if the nozzle is causing the previous line to lift and warp. I have checked belt tensions, calibrated all axes.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfIUS.jpg)
The prints come out fine in terms of dimensions - all within 0.1 mm overall size on large prints - but the quality is now terrible. I'm using the same roll. Prints were back-to-back and humidity is at 20 % in the room I store and print in. I've checked the nozzle, checked the belts, tightened everything, rest the printer settings and put them back, regenerated the G-code with multiple slicers... I'm at a loss now.
Any ideas, thoughts, comments, etc would be greatly appreciated. | [
{
"answer_id": 11903,
"author": "Stuart Alexander",
"author_id": 19954,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19954",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I had a similar problem with my 3 week old Ender 3 Pro.\nI changed the nozzle to no avail then double c... | 2019/11/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11381",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19164/"
] |
11,388 | It's fairly common for E3D to sell silicone socks for their hot ends. There are also other companies that sell these silicone socks for their hot end cartridges.
According to a brief internet search, it seems the ignition temperature of silicone is surprisingly low - around 450 °C. This surprised me because I was under the impression silicone would just burn / evaporate if it were heated up to a much higher temperature.
If my thermistor/[heatrod](https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/) slips off, my heatrod will glow into an orange temperature during thermal runway. This only happens briefly, but its color indicates it is reaching a temperature around 790 °C.
So, are silicone socks safe? Couldn't they ignite fairly easily?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XAH7r.png "Incandescence chart for iron") | [
{
"answer_id": 11389,
"author": "craftxbox",
"author_id": 6996,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6996",
"pm_score": 5,
"selected": true,
"text": "Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let ... | 2019/11/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11388",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/"
] |
11,400 | How can I correctly clean the lacquer from bed printer?
I have used some ethylic alcohol (ethanol) to help cleaning
But what is the best way to do it?
 | [
{
"answer_id": 11401,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "The Ender 3 does not come with a lacquered surface at all.The bed should have a rough build surface that is a clone ... | 2019/11/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11400",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16424/"
] |
11,435 | I have an Anet A8 with the Anet 1.7 board, Skynet3d v2.3.2, and the stock sensor. I originally had this configuration with the stock extruder, but recently purchased an E3D v6 clone with a Bowden extruder. After installing a new bracket I had printed ([TNS E3D v6 Bracket](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2099577)) with the [adjustable stock sensor mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2283440). I installed the extruder and sensor.
I knew I had to adjust sensor position. I went through the [3DStackExchange post on Z probe boundary limits](/q/8153/) as well, and added all of the end positions and probe to nozzle offsets (I will list below) to my `Configuration.h` file, saved, checked the changes were there in the `Configuration.h` tab in the Arduino IDE and uploaded the firmware. After this I went to hit auto leveling in the prepare menu, and the positions were different from the stock extruder and mount, but when it got to the third position, the sensor was off the bed, and the nozzle dug into the bed.
The configuration I was editing was from the Anet A8 5 button stock sensor `Configuration.h` file.
My probe is (When looking from the front of the Anet A8) forward and right of the nozzle.
* My Y-axis offset is -3 (the sensor is 3 mm in front of the nozzle when looking from the front)
* My X-axis offset is +37 (the sensor is 37 mm to the right of the nozzle when looking from the front)
The stock `min_probe_edge` is 10 mm, so with my math my Left Probe Bed Position is 47, Right is 210, Back is 207, and front is 10.
I want to get my probe settings properly set up so I get my bed leveling back and I do not want to ruin my bed while leveling. | [
{
"answer_id": 11449,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": true,
"text": "If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the... | 2019/11/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11435",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19250/"
] |
11,436 | I switched my Anet A8 over to a Bowden and it's printing great. Moving that weight off has enabled me to almost double the speed and resonance problems have vanished.
My question is regarding after the print is done should I add a retraction code and back the filament out of the v6 or is it okay to leave it in there?
My concern is that if I leave it in there, will it cause a clog or anything when I warm up the printer tomorrow to print something else? If that's not a something I should be concerned about let me know. | [
{
"answer_id": 11444,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "It's okay to leave the filament in the hot end, as long as you let it cool down with the hot end cooling fan runnin... | 2019/11/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11436",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19251/"
] |
11,438 | From the [`M502` documentation page](http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M502.html) can be read that `M502`:
>
> Reset all configurable settings to their factory defaults.
>
>
>
*Please note that this phrasing from the manual has been used in the question title!*
>
> To also reset settings in EEPROM, follow with M500.
>
>
>
Note that:
>
> This command can be used even if EEPROM\_SETTINGS is disabled.
>
>
>
The question is what is the definition of *"all configurable settings"*?
Are these the settings that are displayed with [`M503`](http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html), or are there hidden settings? | [
{
"answer_id": 11439,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "What Manmil does when `M502` is called is defined in the [`configuration_store.cpp`](https://github.com/ManmilFirmwa... | 2019/11/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/"
] |
11,450 | Update below
------------
Printed 650 of these tokens, no problem. Then all of a sudden I can't get them to stick and the first layer looks wavy and weird.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYuDc.jpg "Closeup")
After a few tokens it knocks one loose and the whole print fails.
Did try to recalibrate the z-height. Should it be even closer? The test pattern for first layer height looks good.
Removed the nozzle to inspect if it's damaged but it looks fine to me...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf49h.jpg "Whole bed")
Any help is much appreciated.
Update - Dec 29th 2019
======================
With the new nozzle and recalibration I managed to get one more print to stick as in my answer below. Then back to not sticking.
I did order a textured plate from Prosi. Recalibrated the XYZ. That did not help.
I have played around with the first layer calibration.
In the video below the setting of -0.900 is fixed the whole time.
The lines look good and healthy but then lifts on the right side of the bed.
[Video of first layer calibration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xsC4sDvSuY)
I then moved the nozzle even closer and REALLY smash it into the bed @ -1.050
It still lifts on the right side and a little bit in the corners. The first purge plastic that is output to the bottom left usually does not stick at all.
[Untouched with nozzle closer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acMJT58IKgY)
Things I have done:
* Recalibrated the XY & Z axis from scratch.
* Did two cold pulls of the filament ([link](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/WWVRzOY1dX-clogged-nozzle)) to make sure the extruder is not clogged. The pulled filament looked nice and clean.
* Switched to new textured bed sheet
* Switched to a new 0.4mm nozzle (E3D V6)
* Tried different filaments (only PLA though)
* Lubricated moving parts
* Checked heat bed to make sure screws are tight and the bed sits snuggly
Two ideas now:
Can it be the mesh leveling that is acting up? How do I check that?
The heat bed feels differently warm in different places. Is the heat bed constructed with different zones where one can fail and the rest keep working? Do not have access to a heat camera to check.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
EDIT:
=====
Thanks @Paulster2! It's good to find this community!
I've been using several different PLA filaments since this started happening. Before, they all stuck to the printing bed like champions, now none of them do. Pictured is som generic white, but getting the same result with Prosiment PLA. Nozzle 215°C, Bed 60°C. As I wrote above, I did check the nozzle and it *LOOKS* fine. It's very small though and I have ordered new nozzles. If no one has any other suggestions I will post more when I have tried the new nozzle.
Also thanks to @Greenonline for correcting spelling and layout. Cheers! | [
{
"answer_id": 11451,
"author": "Tim Li",
"author_id": 18867,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18867",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "A problem I encountered a similar problem with adhesion because the nozzle was pressing straight into the bed. Th... | 2019/11/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11450",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19284/"
] |
11,455 | To date I have used [RepG](http://replicat.org/) and [Repetier with CuraEngine](https://www.repetier.com/) to do my slicing. In various instances when printing a layer of a cylinder it will start in the middle and head out toward either side. Then it moves the nozzle back to the center and prints toward the other side.
Knowledge of [TSP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travelling_salesman_problem) suggests the print would go a lot quicker if the travel operation back to the middle were omitted. Here is an [example](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjGYc03HGU8&feature=youtu.be).
By that I mean that to fill the layer of a cylinder from one edge, across the middle to the edge on the right.
My question is why is this done? **What advantage does printing it in two passes have over printing it in one pass?** | [
{
"answer_id": 11457,
"author": "Tim Li",
"author_id": 18867,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18867",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It doesn’t really have much of effect in the actual print. I’m pretty sure the setting can be modified either in ... | 2019/12/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11455",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1397/"
] |
11,464 | I'm new to 3D printing. I've made some projects before just fine, but this project is giving me problems.
I 3D printed a trumpet mouthpiece, and the printer made supports inside the mouthpiece funnel. I can easily remove the exterior supports, but I don't know how to get to the supports inside. Does anyone know how I would do that?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6ys5.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJ9KP.jpg)
[Here is the link to the model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1539908)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8R11d.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11465,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Based on the photo provided, there's a strong possibility that you can print that model without internal supports... | 2019/12/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11464",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19302/"
] |
11,470 | I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with [this](https://www.amazon.ca/Ewigkeit-Extruder-Printer-Assembled-Aluminum/dp/B07Q493RYW/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=hot%20end&qid=1574768751&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFYVDRSMjVZRDU3QkMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODExMTRZSzAwSjdZQzJJTzkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDMxMzczNDNZWjNVUTRNNUU0MSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=). After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at room temperature. It also gives the "Heating Failed" error message. Printer halted when I tried to heat it.
Things I've tried:
1. Checked the wiring, the thermistors are reading about 110k and 10k at end of the wires.
2. Tried updating the firmware with a few different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C)
3. Tried with old thermistor and reading stayed at 135/185 °C.
I'm suspecting something wrong with the motherboard but was hoping I could figure out what's wrong before going ahead and buying a new board. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.
In troubleshooting the issue, I tried disconnecting one/both of the thermistors at a time and the reading stayed unchanged. Now thinking I might've somehow broken the board when I was disassembling it.
Upon receiving a new motherboard, that fixed the bed temperature reading. The hot end is now reading -14 °C with the thermistor plugged/unplugged. Took the resistances on the old and new hot end thermistors and couldn't get reading from either. So turned out both the stock motherboard and my hot end thermistors were not working. Ordered new thermistors and that should fix the problem. | [
{
"answer_id": 11582,
"author": "square potato",
"author_id": 19255,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19255",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I got my printer fixed and am posting steps I took for people with similar problems in the future. \n\n**I... | 2019/12/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11470",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19255/"
] |
11,472 | The heated bed output on my printer recently stopped working. I have an output for a second hotend. How can I reprogram this output as a heated bed output? The board is a [Geeetech GT2560 rev A+](http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560). | [
{
"answer_id": 11474,
"author": "user77232",
"author_id": 12857,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "If you want to use Extruder heater and thermistor 2 as a hotbed driver, then you will need to get an external ... | 2019/12/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11472",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19321/"
] |
11,489 | I've bought a new type of filament (GreenTEC Pro Natural) for my Anycubic Mega i3 to print some food-safe cookie cutters. Now I have changed the print settings to an extruder temperature of 210 °C and a heated bed temperture of 60 °C and everything works well.
But when I look at the print, I see that too little filament is extruded at the beginning of an extrusion and at the end. So every time the nozzle is lifted to move without extruding, it takes too long for the filament to correctly start extruding again (see picture).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HUztR.jpg)
What can I do? Is there a setting to print slower at these points (I'm currently using Cura)? Maybe change retraction distance? Different extrusion temp? Before I used PLA from Anycubic and everything worked fine... | [
{
"answer_id": 11498,
"author": "Avishka Dambawinna",
"author_id": 16256,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16256",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I think there's a retraction issue(had the same issue). You need to change retraction and check wheth... | 2019/12/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11489",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19344/"
] |
11,492 | I'm designing a mount for a cylindrical speaker to attach to my bicycle. It will mount on the bottle cages. I've printed a few iterations with various infill settings (using PLA) and the weak point is always the bolts holding the entire mount to the bike. They can't handle the compression needed to secure it properly. I had thought about using an imbedded metal part to distribute the load, but it's not easily replicable and I want to make the design public and fairly accessible to others with the same speaker. I currently have PETG and ABS, would one of those perform better or should I order a specialty high strength polymer? | [
{
"answer_id": 11493,
"author": "Anteino",
"author_id": 19290,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19290",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Try heating op your PLA while mounting it. The PLA wil temporarily weaken and will become a bit moldable. PETG ... | 2019/12/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11492",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19354/"
] |
11,501 | I want to make a project involving many small dots indents and I would like to know how I can calculate the smallest dot hole the Prusa i3 MK3S can extrude around on a layer using PLA. In other words, if I printer a mesh with circle shaped holes, how would I know the minimum diameter of the holes. Is it simply the same as the layer resolution (0.35 mm), filament size (1.75 mm), or is it something else? | [
{
"answer_id": 11502,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "That depends on the ability how fast you get filament to stick to the build plate and whether the filament is loaded... | 2019/12/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11501",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18877/"
] |
11,540 | I am printing minis and other very detailes stuff and I find that 0.04 mm layer height gives the best looking (smoothest) result. However it takes a long time, so I am looking for ways to speed it up. Is there any slicer which offers different layer heights for the outer perimiter? So you can print your model at 0.12 mm or so, but the outer layer gets printer first 3 times at 0.04 mm? | [
{
"answer_id": 11542,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "In Ultimaker Cura, unless you print a single perimeter outline and add extra wall infill support you are not going t... | 2019/12/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11540",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19381/"
] |
11,546 | We disassembled everything in order to unclog the filament from the tube, but now I can't seem to get the nozzle to screw back in to the hotbed with the PTFE tube in place. Is there some kind of trick? I feel like if the tube were slightly smaller in diameter it would work. I'm using the same tube, just without the filament that had clogged it. Am I just not using enough force?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8iq4.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11558,
"author": "Alfred Cheng",
"author_id": 19428,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19428",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I got the same issue before. When you tried to push out the material from the tube, one end of the tube was... | 2019/12/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11546",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19403/"
] |
11,549 | **Here is the context**
I've got an old car for which I have a small plastic piece who is broken. As it's an old car and a very specific piece, I can't find it anymore. So I was thinking about 3D printing it.
My problem is this piece is on the carburetor, so close to the engine. This means, it can heat a lot, close to 90-100 °C.
**My question**
Do the pieces created with the common 3D printing techniques melt at 100 °C? If yes, what kind of other 3D printing technique can I use?
Here is the piece I want to recreate (sorry for the bad quality), the scale is in cm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBZ6Q.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11550,
"author": "dex",
"author_id": 19305,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19305",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Depending on the exact mechanical load and material used to print, you might get away with 100 °C.\n\nNext to the me... | 2019/12/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11549",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19412/"
] |
11,562 | I'm printing with a Prosi MK3, with the following settings:
* 3 perimeters
* 50 % infill
* infill overlap: 50 %
The filament is Polyalchemy emerald green (PLA). Nozzle temperature: 210 °C.
On a simple part (it's a keychain), the shell detaches if I apply a bit of force on a zone of the part that is "fragile". See picture. You might not be able to see it, but only the 2 external perimeters detach from the rest of the part. I used to print this part on another printer, and I never observed this problem.
Any idea on how to solve this problem? It seems the 3 external perimeters didn't fuse properly.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUI0O.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 17973,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I am looking at your picture, and I realize that it is not only that the perimeter is detaching from the infill, but a... | 2019/12/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11562",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14188/"
] |
11,564 | I'm printing a model on my Ender 3 in Mika3D Silk PLA, which (just for reference, this is not atypical) has a stated temperature of 200 °C to 235 °C. I have used this filament before and found it works best for me around 200 °C, but was not the case with this print, and I'm wondering what else I can do to fix this issue.
I have retractions enabled, have lowered the printing temperature to 180 °C and decreased the feed rate significantly, to around 75 %. Both of these adjustments happened gradually, making sure there was no change in stringing between adjustments.
I do have rafts and Z hops enabled in Cura, as previous prints of this model were knocked off the base even after leveling the bed properly, and almost every time a "hop" is performed, some stringing occurs. Is there something I can do in my settings, etc, to fix this issue?
Here is an image of the problem.
Edit: did some extra research and *increased* my print speed and switched to a better testing model - same issue. | [
{
"answer_id": 12237,
"author": "user20472",
"author_id": 20472,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20472",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It's because the nozzle has nowhere to wipe itself, like when you don't use Z hop the nozzle wipes itself off ... | 2019/12/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11564",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19390/"
] |
11,576 | I am attempting to build a 3D printer using the [Bear Upgrade](https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade) for guidance.
However, I want to modify some of the parts. I am basing the modified parts on the original designs.
I would like to understand the reason behind some design details presented on the original designs so that, if necessary, introduce them into the new designs.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTG3N.jpg)
Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???
Item 2 ) There are some little squares inside the piece which i don't know if they are there for some structural reason
Please use [this link](https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/blob/master/full_upgrade/for_mk3/printed_parts/step/y_idler.step) to the piece depicted above.
Here is a drawing of the full assembly, showing that this piece is the y axes linear rods holder:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOAzb.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11577,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "> \n> Item 1) The holes are not round. Why???\n> \n> \n> \n\nTwo things about this. First, the print is upside ... | 2019/12/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11576",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19469/"
] |
11,591 | My first magnetic bed mat for my Ender 3 Pro is cracking underneath. On the top side there is a bubble in the middle which prevents any viable print. The layers are probably separating.
I am new to printing but have read many articles on hiccups to expect, fixes etc. I do understand these magnetic mats can break down. They're pretty cheap on Amazon (something like \$12 for a 2-pack). Not a huge deal. I've printed only about 1100g worth of filament over 30 prints. Despite their cheap price I don't feel I got a proper amount of mileage out of the mat.
I keep my bed at 60 °C and 215 °C for the filament. I'm pretty sure 60 °C is below the maximum temperature for this kind of bed. I am struggling to find articles on this issue.
What can I do to prolong the life of these mats? I have removed the mat (with its print) while the bed was still hot to remove items just as much as removing cold items. Am I supposed to wait until it's cold? The cracks I only assume are from flexing the mat. I'm not trying to fold it here. I do pull on the item as I'm curving the mat to break it free. I can't explain the bubble.
The bed deteriorated after my first large print which took 27 hours. Prior, longest print I had was about 5 hours, most prints 1-1.5 hours. Is this a factor?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z69pA.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11601,
"author": "GalacticCowboy",
"author_id": 13594,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13594",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "My personal technique for removing prints (particularly larger prints) is not to flex the mat at all. Ins... | 2019/12/20 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11591",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19504/"
] |
11,599 | I’ve just brought my printer back out after a month and it’s first print created a solid block of resin about 1.5 cm deep and the full width and length of the print bed. What could cause this?
My only thought so far is that the FEP film / vat bed is looking a little cloudy even after cleaning. I wondered if this could have caused the light to diffuse across the whole bed?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gucsU.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11644,
"author": "Community",
"author_id": -1,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/-1",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Is the laser (or whatever light source it uses) visible? The cloudy film sounds like a good candidate for light diff... | 2019/12/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11599",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19518/"
] |
11,605 | I've been thinking about alternatives to support materials for FDM printers, such as multi axis printers, dual head with soluble support material or printing in a gel/liquid which traps the material in place. Then it occurred to me that it might be possible to use the surface tension of a liquid to act as support material, same way small objects an insect can float on water even though they are heavier than water. This would also work great for cooling the extruded material. NOTE, we are still using a base plate like any other FDM printer, the only difference is that we have a water surface on the build plate which act as support material for large overhangs/steep angles. Everything is still attached to the build plate itself. We are not just printing stand alone parts on the surface of the water.
After some highly scientific testing (Dropping an extruded string of PLA and placing a thin printed PLA part on the top of water) I've concluded that it is very feasible to float PLA on the surface tension of water. See picture for refence: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hikJO.jpg)
As you can see the floating structure is not at all trivial, it has both smooth round shapes and many sharp corners and holes in it, it was still extremely simple to get floating (I could drop it in from a height of 5 cm and it would still not break the surface tension).
I also tried my best to investigate the effects of having structures underneath which might mess up the surface tension by placing larger PLA parts under the floating ring and trying to sink the ring by touching the underside and corners without any success at sinking the floating part. The only way I could get this part to sink was to push it down under water. Even if the surface tension was only broken half way along the ring the ring would still float. If you are thinking that the ring acted as a boat, that is not the case. I made sure to fill the small indents with water so that there were no pockets of air keeping it afloat.
An even more encouraging result was another ring which was much thicker than it was wide. It still managed to float from the surface tension on the top side of the structure while the rest of it was submerged, accurately mimicking how the structure would actually be in the water during printing. See picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPQSH.jpg)
While this ring much easier to sink it was very resistant to being moved around. Again, basically the only way to sink it was to push it down under water, though as soon as the surface tension was broken on one side the whole ring quickly sank.
All this leads me to my question: Does anyone know of a 3D printer which uses the surface tension of water as support material?
I've searched around some on the web and I have not really found anything at all on the matter. I can foresee many potential problems (such as the extruder moving unsupported lines to the side when changing direction, layer adhesion, enclosed areas not filling with water etc) but the potential to print without support and only have to worry about keeping the newly extruded material in place could open up a lot of potential.
UPDATE: I also tried 60 degree Celsius water (In case you need hot water to help with layer adhesion) and the surface tension still was able to float the thicker ring piece, though it felt like the surface tension was weaker. | [
{
"answer_id": 14211,
"author": "Ange Einstein",
"author_id": 23174,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23174",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I just had the same idea and googled it. My idea was to submerge the whole print platform in the water and... | 2019/12/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11605",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19381/"
] |
11,608 | I bought an Ender 3 two days ago and assembled it today. I think I did it properly, tested the movement of all axes which works for all axes. Then I performed the calibration as described in the manual. I used a piece of paper and adjusted the bed until it barely fits underneath the nozzle for all four corners. Afterwards, I wanted to print my first model so I selected the cat from the usb stick which came with printer. And now comes my problem. I let the printer run for 15 minutes. It moved and moved and moved but there was no filament on the bed. The nozzle and bed were heated properly. The one thing which I noticed was that the stepper which feeds the filament turns for like 30° and then flips back: to me it looks like the filament can not be fed in. After canceling the print the extruder moves back to the home position which is like 5 mm off the bed and then suddenly the filament flows out of the nozzle.
What part of the configuration I'm missing? | [
{
"answer_id": 11609,
"author": "kva1992",
"author_id": 19532,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19532",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I use Cura on my Anycubic Chiron which I encountered a similar problem with and I was able to resolve the issue ... | 2019/12/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11608",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19531/"
] |
11,634 | I'm trying to increase adhesion of the first layer (as well as to fill gaps for a more even surface) by squeezing more material against the bed. The obvious way of doing that in Cura is by increasing the "Initial Layer Flow", i.e. to make the printer push out slightly more material than it normally would.
But then there is also a setting called "Initial Layer Width" and according to the the Cura Settings Guide (see image below), increasing line width will make the nozzle
>
> extrude more material and that material has to flow wider outward. This causes the nozzle to press the material harder on the build plate (...) Not only will the lines be wider ... but they will also be farther apart ... by the same factor, so it would not produce overextrusion
>
>
>
This seems to imply that increasing the initial layer width will automatically *also* increase initial layer flow. If this is so, the question is: which setting is applied first?
In any case, it seems that the two settings should not be applied together, if they manipulate the same variable (but I have not seen this recommendation anywhere). Which leads me to my may question: **what is the difference between the two settings?** More specifically (based on my above reasoning): **what else does "Initial Layer Width" manipulate, apart from the flow rate in the first layer?** Just the distance between the lines so that increasing the setting will lead to fewer lines?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yzyn4.png) | [
{
"answer_id": 11635,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "Cura option `Initial Layer Width` will cause lines to be further apart or closer together, based on the value you set... | 2019/12/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11634",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19592/"
] |
11,638 | I printed a model and now I can't remove it.
I have been chiselling away with a putty knife and made little or no progress. I even heated the bed up to 70 °C. That really didn't seem to help.
Last time, I put it in vice, and tried to free it that way, but instead I broke the glass.
Suggestion? | [
{
"answer_id": 11639,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "It's useful to know what material you used for the print. Also, you've referenced the glass that broke in the vise... | 2019/12/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11638",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16395/"
] |
11,647 | I have seen several postings in forums about the power connector on some ender 3's being bad and causing issues or just burning out, potentially causing a fire.
How can I tell if I have the bad power connector? | [
{
"answer_id": 11649,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "If you can measure the voltage at the main board where the bed power line is attached, or at the last point in th... | 2019/12/31 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11647",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19333/"
] |
11,652 | Why does my 3 mm PLA filament always snap near the spool some time (usually a few hours) after a print has finished?
I have had it snap mid print but this is quite rare.
I have 3 rolls of 3 mm PLA filament from Velleman and 3DPrima. They all exhibit this behavior. They are between 2 and 3 years old. Each roll is stored in a foil bag with some desiccant, although this was not the case in the first year. The temperature in the room ranges between 14 °C and 18 °C in winter and rarely up to 30 °C in summer. Current relative humidity is 49 %. In summer I think I have seen it as high as 70 %. I baked one spool in the oven at about 50 °C for a few hours but this does not seam to have helped. When I remove the loose end of filament from the extruder after it has broken, some length of it seams to snap easily and some of it will just bend.
The printer has a direct extruder so there is no bowden tube. | [
{
"answer_id": 11653,
"author": "Mick",
"author_id": 3953,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "PLA seems to become brittle with age. Micro-fractures develop on the surface, and they will grow if filament is taken... | 2020/01/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11652",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19621/"
] |
11,662 | I've just built my first 3D printer. It uses a Bowden setup.
When I try to print the extruder starts fine, but after a few seconds the extruder motor start skipping and the nozzle is jammed.
I tried a cold pull, but it didn't help. I removed the PTFE tube and tried to push the filament with my hand, it works but at the start I need the push harder but after it flows fine. But if I reinstall the Bowden setup, it works fine for a few minutes, but after a few seconds it starts again.
---
Note I am using silver PLA at 200-205 °C. I tried to raise the temperature to 215 °C, but it also jammed, and the filament what after I pushed out was black (it is a new hotend and I never used black filament before), like it was burned (if it is possible). | [
{
"answer_id": 11664,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It is useful to diagnose your problem if you provide more information, specifically what material you are using a... | 2020/01/02 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11662",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19643/"
] |
11,667 | I'm using a Prosi i3 MK3S printer. After ~8 months of printing PLA, PET-G, ABS I decided to buy some HIPS and print something with it. I cannot print >1 filaments at once, so I'm not using it as a support for ABS, **I want to create some high durability working models, like gears, robot parts etc.**
While the quality of my models is perfect, unfortunately their **strength is disappointingly low. They easily undergo plastic deformation or break.** I've tried lots of settings, some yielding better or worse results, but the problem is present regardless.
My settings:
* Printer: Prosi i3 MK3S
* Nozzle: Default 0.4 mm nozzle for Prosi
* Layer Height: 0.2-0.3 mm
* Temperature: 230-240 °C nozzle, 100-110 °C bed
* Slicer: ProsiSlicer 2.0.0
I've read lots of tutorials regarding HIPS printing and they did not give me the answer to my question...
Am I doing something wrong or is it normal for High Impact PolyStyrene? At this point, the *High Impact* Polystyrene seems less *High Impact* than generic PLA. | [
{
"answer_id": 11670,
"author": "KeithS",
"author_id": 19313,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19313",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "The primary use of HIPS in 3D printing is to create sacrificial supports, which you're aware of. The material dis... | 2020/01/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11667",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16798/"
] |
11,673 | I'm having a problem getting a clean first layer on an Ender 3 with BLTouch auto bed leveling. Thickness seems to fluctuate all over the bed, but in a consistent (repeatable) way. Here's my attempt to print a [single layer 5 square bed calibration test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bKYFc.jpg)
I stopped the print midway through filling the first square, but you get the idea. Lines go from too low so no filament comes out to too high.
I printed this several (many) times with slight settings tweaks and it looks pretty much the same every time; the ups and downs aren't random. For example, the center square always is always too low on the left and too high on the right:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wI8h.jpg)
The printer is a SainSmart Ender 3 Pro with a BLTouch V3.1 and Creality glass bed, otherwise stock. I flashed a bootloader and Marlin 2.0 using the [instructions and pre-compiled firmware](https://github.com/3d-printing-canada/Ender-3-BL-Touch-Installation) from 3D Printing Canada. I'm using the glass bed upside-down on the plain glass side (no coating).
I pre-heated and leveled the four corners manually using the paper method. I auto-homed and then lowered the hot end until it would just catch a piece of paper and used that height to set the Z offset using M851 and saved it with M500. It's currently set at -2.80.
I added `G29` to GCode start in Cura, and it does a 3x3 probe before the print starts. Here's the output when I run `M420 V`:
```
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 -0.207 +0.172 +0.162
1 -0.100 -0.160 +0.220
2 -0.118 +0.215 +0.295
```
Here's what it looks like in the Bed Visualizer plug-in in Octoprint:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vy4YI.png)
If I understand this right (dubious) it's showing that the glass is lower toward the front and left, highest at back-right. But it's only 0.4mm from the lowest to highest points. And the whole point of mesh leveling is to compensate for this anyway.
At Paulster's suggestion I turned off mesh leveling using `M420 S0`, leveled manually, and printed again. The result is pretty similar (note that this time I let it run all the way through):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwWJ1.jpg)
Where should I start looking to diagnose this problem?
**Update**
I noticed my X-axis belt was a bit loose, so I tightened it up. It seems to have helped with the odd Z slanting. My test print is still not great though, so this may not be the whole problem. Also I've never seen this effect listed as one caused by loose belts, so it's dubious as the cause. Here's the current test print after tightening the belt:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWlJd.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1deao.jpg)
It's flatter, but I'm still getting (I think) under-extrusion and some odd wobbles at the corners. | [
{
"answer_id": 11719,
"author": "Steve061",
"author_id": 19503,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19503",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "Two things:\n\n1. Did you bring the bed up to operating temperature to do the levelling (manual or automatic). ... | 2020/01/04 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11673",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16902/"
] |
11,679 | I'm getting wavy lines on the first layer only in both the x and y direction identically. The first layer is 0.4 mm with a 0.4 mm tip. The other layers are 0.2 mm. I've tried changing the Z offset all the way from -1.2 to 0.5 mm. I've tried changing the hot end leveling the heated bed. None of these changes affected the wavy lines. The waves have about a 1 mm period. The printer is a German RipRap. The material is ABS. The heated bed is 110 °C. I've tried the hot end at 220 °C and 240 °C. So far, nothing has changed the waves.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e74SF.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11682,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The general recommendation for layer height is to go no thicker than 75% of the nozzle diameter. Your post states... | 2020/01/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11679",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075/"
] |
11,684 | I have just upgraded my board to TH3D's [EZBoard Lite](https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezboard-lite/) with their [Unified Firmware (U2.R1.15)](https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/ezboard-installation-guide/) and whilst dialling in all the setting I have found that using the BlTouch each time to be frustrating because of the time it takes to complete the Auto Bed Leveling, however, I cannot find the settings to increase the speed as shown in [Teaching Tech's video](https://youtu.be/BV11-VOQjMc?t=134):
```
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 5, 25 }
```
is changed to
```
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 20, 25 }
```
and
```
#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
```
is changed to
```
#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 100 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
```
and
```
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
```
is changed to
```
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 10000
```
I am not quite sure which parts to change as the two builds are organised and worded differently.
In the online firmware configurator, it does list an option to speed up the probing of their own EZABL but says not to do so for the BLTouch in the [manual configuration editor](https://ezfirmware.th3dstudio.com/editor/)
```
// Super fast probing - VERY EXPERIMENTAL AND ONLY TESTED WITH EZABL PRO SENSORS
// Do NOT use with EZABL_FASTPROBE (comment out above) or BL Touch Sensors
//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE
```
Would enabling this be the same as making the changes listed in Teaching Tech's video?
Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. | [
{
"answer_id": 13998,
"author": "user18181",
"author_id": 21759,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21759",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I dont know if you managed to solve this but if not I was facing the same issue and managed to do it just by s... | 2020/01/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11684",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13327/"
] |
11,690 | I am designing a part with a material which can bear up to a certain stress.
To keep the stress within the design limits, I need to ensure a certain surface of solid material per layer, in other words a minimum amount of extruded filament per layer and a smoothly changing infill ratio so that the infill can transmit the load efficiently to the neighbouring layers.
The part has an irregular shape and I cannot simply increase the infill ratio for the whole object because the part is big and it would cost more time and filament. I also cannot build straight pillars of solid material inside the part because there are no regions which are suitable for a continuous pillar.
How can I calculate and apply a smoothly changing infill ratio or in general how to ensure that each layer is made of at least a certain amount of material?
I use Prusa Slicer for slicing and Fusion 360 for the design.
Related questions about variable infill, which however don't answer my question because I need to specify the amount of material and because I need a smoothly changing infill ratio:
[Different infill in the same part](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6522/different-infill-in-the-same-part)
[slic3r: Can I vary the infill percentage for different heights of my model?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7025/slic3r-can-i-vary-the-infill-percentage-for-different-heights-of-my-model) | [
{
"answer_id": 11693,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": true,
"text": "Very interesting idea!\nThere may be a way to do this semi-automatically, but I believe it's not yet a part of any s... | 2020/01/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11690",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338/"
] |
11,707 | I have printed two objects with my new 3D printer (Anycubic Mega S) and everytime, my prints are stuck to my bed (sort of glued to it). I cannot remove them by hand. I have tried waiting until it cools off, but the only thing that works is scraping really hard the bed with the spatula.
I'm scared that if I have to do that for my next prints, I will break the bed (maybe peel off the element that keeps the plastic and the bed glued together while printing).
What is the safest way to remove a print from the bed ? | [
{
"answer_id": 11708,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "One method that works at our makerspace and also has worked for a user on another 3d printing forum is to use a 50... | 2020/01/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11707",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19675/"
] |
11,710 | I am using Cura for slicing, and OctoPrint for the actual printing.
On small pieces with roughly one square cm of surface area prints over about 6 mm have a risk of coming off at 60 °C.
In fact, I have had to use 71 °C so it stick properly. However, I don't want the print bed that hot all the time. I would like to try a different number of layers at different bed temperatures till I get it right.
Gradually, over the course of 1-3 mm, for the bed temperature to decrease back to 60 °C to save on electricity. Possibly even 50 °C as the layers get higher.
Cura only support the initial layer having a different temperature and that isn't enough.
Apparently you can have custom user events with [OctoPrint](https://docs.octoprint.org/en/latest/events/index.html), one of them being **ZChange** which is great.
```
{__currentZ}: the current Z position of the head if known, -1 if not available
```
I need on the ZChange event to check the `__currentZ` and execute an`M140` with a temperature varying with layer height. Normally I would use a simple `if` command or etc., but how do I implement this here.
However, its seems you can execute a command or a G-code.
I can't seem to find any examples where I can test the Z height in layers or mm and execute a different temperature for different layers.
An additional problem is the increased temps cause the model to melt so that the opening is smaller nearest to the glass than most of the rest of the model.
I am height of the raft, which helps, but I am hoping for a compromise.
The print bed shouldn't need to be 70 °C for the whole vertical height of the model.
Any suggestions? | [
{
"answer_id": 11711,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "**The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion**, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the pre... | 2020/01/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11710",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16395/"
] |
11,716 | For some reason the only the top layers keep failing or underextruding on my prints, for no clear reason. Here are my settings:
* Slicer: Simplify3D
* Filament: 1.75 mm Black PLA from Filamentive
* Resolution: 0.1 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle
* Temperature: 200 °C nozzle and 50 °C bed
* Speed: 45 mm/s and 50% outline speed
* Infill: 15%
The prints were going perfectly fine on a 0.2 mm resolution and only seemed to fail when I changed to 0.1 mm; which is strange considering the rest of the print goes fine, apart from the top layers (which I have 3 of).
My only thought is that it could be a bridging issue and is somehow underextruding, and getting caught on the infill as that it where it is centred around. I wouldn't know how to fix this.
If anyone could give me any information or tips I would be very appreciative, thanks.
The pictures are taken after some light sanding.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wnhbn.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyVoc.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11717,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "If you decrease layer thickness, you should increase bottom and top layer amount, or set it to a fixed shell thickne... | 2020/01/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11716",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17392/"
] |
11,722 | I understand that this is probably more of an electronics question, but was hoping that someone with experience of using an Anet A6 in the UK (or a country outside of the US/China) may be able to help... or alternatively, someone knowledgeable in electronics!
I recently bought and assembled an Anet A6. I am based in the UK. On the power supply transformer of the Anet A6, there is a switch that allows you to select the input voltage from the mains. There are two options, 100 V or 220 V.
When I turn my Anet A6 printer on, nothing happens... I have triple checked all connections and there doesn't seem to be anything wrongly connected or loose.
I am wondering if the reason it is not working is because in the UK we use a different mains voltage 230 V (I think) and a different frequency 50 Hz (I think) to the US and China (which I assume the printer was built to accommodate)?... I am not 100 % sure on this, just a guess, I am far from an electronics expert.
I don't have a multimeter to test if there is voltage flowing (not that I would even know how to test it lol).
Is it likely that this difference between voltage/freq is the reason that it is not working? If so, is there anyway to fix this? I would prefer to buy something (some sort of converter) than tinker with the electronics, as I have no experience in electronics and live in a rented flat, which I really don't want to burn down (not that I would if i owned it).
Any help is massively appreciated, thanks in advance!
---
**Update**
I have done what @Oscar suggested and also bought a multimeter to test the circuitry. I plugged my Anet A6 into the mains power supply and turned it on, but still nothing happens... the LED doesn't light up, not does the LCD screen turn on.
I tested the voltage of the power supply whilst it was turned on across connections 6 and 8 in the video below (taken from the assembly instructions video, 12 mins 46 seconds):
[Assembly Instructions Video, 12:46](https://youtu.be/mQzOHL_89nc?t=766)
The 6 and 8 connections correspond to the output from the transformer (ie the connections that would be connected to the mainboard). There was no voltage reading at all when I measured it here with the multimeter. Does this indicate that there is a problem with the transformer/power supply, or is this expected? Or am I testing in the wrong place and there is a better place to test when the printer is on to determine what the problem might be? | [
{
"answer_id": 11723,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "The UK uses 230 V mains voltage. The 220 V designation is from the past, Europe is now using 230 V. You do not have t... | 2020/01/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11722",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19704/"
] |
11,726 | Long story short, my wife and I are now the proud owners of an AnyCubic D, also known as the Predator. This is not our first 3D printer, but it is our first "delta" design, with the circular build plate and the extruder suspended by stepper-controlled tie rods (as opposed to the IMO more intuitive Cartesian designs like the MakerBot R2X and Ender 3 Pro we already have).
Got it all put together last night and ran all the basic setups including an auto bed leveling. This feature is both a blessing and a curse. It's a blessing because the actual leveling is a matter of fitting the probe, hitting a button and walking away as it maps the build plate, and the results in terms of a consistent extrusion thickness around the plate are excellent each and every time.
It's a curse because the printer *depends* on auto-leveling due to the build plate being bolted directly to the base; with no manual adjustment possible, probing is the only form of leveling you can do, and that leveling is dependent on an accurate "zeroing" of the extruder above the center of the plate, which has to be done using the steppers to bring the extruder down from "home" to the typical paper-thin clearance over the plate surface.
Thus the problem; the zeroing procedure has a minimum adjustment of 0.1mm. Getting the clearance *just right* for a solid first layer requires at least another order of magnitude finer adjustment. For now, I have it "good enough" to stick the first layer onto the plate, but the resulting prints show pretty classic plate clearance issues:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOVKz.jpg)
You can see the lines of the bottom layer aren't connecting horizontally, and the extrusions are thin and tubular, which are the textbook symptoms of excessive build plate clearance (not enough "squish" of the filament between extruder and plate). It's close, but this is a game of just tens of microns, and the printer simply does not give me that level of control; one more step down at 0.1mm and I hit the plate. The manual says you can babystep the Z offset at 0.04mm while actually running a print, but I have run several (including the leveling test GCode included on the printer's SD card) and have never seen that option enabled in the leveling menu.
I was wondering if there were any AnyCubic D/Predator owners with insight into how they really dial in the proper zero height on these printers. I do have Cura's features to work with; theoretically I could send a relative-positioned `G0 Z-0.04 F100` command from its remote control panel as the last step down in zero height adjustment (assuming the printer is listening to USB input while running the leveling procedure), or I could put a similar command in the start Gcode followed by a `G92 Z0` which will re-zero the extruder height at the new level (assuming the printer accepts a relative move below its known zero; Marlin 1.1.0 actively prevents that, but indications are the AnyCubic firmware is proprietary, so who knows). I could also leave the extruder height as-is and bump Cura's first layer flow rate setting in the material profile, to push more filament into the taller space on the first layer and so get more squish.
However, none of these strike me as something I should *have* to do to dial in a printer, given that extruder clearance is a problem trivially solved on either of the other printers, and these fairly kludgy fixes would have to be repeated every time the bed was re-leveled (such as after any disassembly for maintenance or any move to a new location, including one beyond USB cable distance of the slicing computer). | [
{
"answer_id": 11729,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I recently corrected a similar problem on a Robo3D R1+ printer. It is described as the z-offset setting.\n\nAn en... | 2020/01/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11726",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19313/"
] |
11,744 | My printer came with a knock off BuildTak like build surface. What can I use to clean it? I don't want to damage it. | [
{
"answer_id": 11746,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is the general recommendation I've heard and it works well for me."
... | 2020/01/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11744",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422/"
] |
11,747 | I want to create two piece labels for storage containers. The main piece would be the “badge” which would have text cut out of it (e.g. “Paint”, “Electrical” etc.). The second piece would be a positive of the text which is would be in a different colour, and would fit inside the cut out on the badge. Because of the tolerance of 3D printers, I need to make the insert slightly smaller than the cut out. Initially, I thought I could just scale the insert but that would affect the letter spacing. Then I thought it would work if I could somehow taper the letters so they are slightly smaller at the top than the bottom. So my question is, how I do that. I did the original in OpenScad but I would try Fusion360 if that’s a better solution. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thanks. | [
{
"answer_id": 11748,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "In OpenSCAD, apply the `offset` transformation to inset the letter outlines before extruding ... | 2020/01/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11747",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19756/"
] |
11,750 | I currently only have access to an old, 32 bit OS and need to slice a couple things. While there are a lot of slicers around, most popular ones, for example Ultimaker Cura 4, need to run on a 64 bit operation system.
What somewhat recent (late 2018, 2019) options offering common abilities are there that run on older computers? | [
{
"answer_id": 11751,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "The last version of Ultimaker Cura that supported 32-bit Operation Systems was [Cura 2.3.1](https://github.com/Ultima... | 2020/01/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11750",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/"
] |
11,754 | I've tried to apply a sharp blade (the one that came witht he printer) to scrape the model off like I usually do but this model seems overly robust. What method can I do to take this off safely?
See image [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9nIu.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11768,
"author": "KeithS",
"author_id": 19313,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19313",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Unfortunately, you may have to destroy this part, or the build surface, just to get it off the plate. It looks re... | 2020/01/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11754",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19758/"
] |
11,761 | Are there any statistics regarding how many units each manufacturer has sold, e.g. in 2019?
[An article](https://3dprinterchat.com/top-selling-3d-printers/) from 2016 claims Monoprice to have led the market back then - but all of the printers in that article have become obsolete since then.
Some manufacturers also claim theirs to be "one of the most popular" - but that likely doesn't translate to sales, at least for the more overpriced ones. | [
{
"answer_id": 11763,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "Getting this data is not easy. Many companies that make 3D printers are either private companies that do not report re... | 2020/01/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11761",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171/"
] |
11,782 | Say I wanted to print a plastic credit card like shape (like [these](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07193KG7G)), but with a QR code engraved. How could I do that for cheap? You can buy an "ID card printer" for $1,000-1,500 on Amazon, but that's way too much for printing one or two cards. Maybe down the road this would be a good option, but I kind of like the option of 3D printing the card from scratch, so the QR code bleeds halfway or all the way through the card, rather than just being printed on the surface. Is this possible for cheap? Maybe like [this](https://www.library.ucsf.edu/news/3d-print-the-ultimate-business-card/) but not as fancy. Mainly (I'm new to all this) I am wondering what machine would accomplish this for low price yet good quality, and what other equipment I would need.
Basically, what printer is best for this type of task? | [
{
"answer_id": 11783,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "**FDM printer?** \n\nIf you want to print one, maybe you should outsource it (let it print the tag on both sides), e... | 2020/01/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11782",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19796/"
] |
11,787 | I've been trying to print anything for the past few days. Every time I go to print something the printer stops pushing plastic out and usually the motor makes a knocking sound.
My original thought was that my E-steps were off (because they were) but I solved that and I still have a problem. Then I noticed that I was struggling with getting the PLA filament to feed into the nozzle. I assumed it was a clogged nozzle and possibly heat creep (because I was a dummy and used my old, bowden retraction settings on my new, direct extruder). I cleared out the clog and I'm able to feed plastic through after disengaging the idler arm. Though, I do struggle getting the filament into the nozzle. Maybe it's due to the Hemera's tight tolerances or due to a misalignment in the hot end, I'm not sure yet. Once I do get the plastic in, it quickly and easily pushes through and spits out of the nozzle so I think that my nozzle isn't clogged. I did do a cold pull the other day.
But I've noticed that my extruder is making a knocking sound, as if someone was gently rapping on my chamber door. I also see that the gears move one step back and forth. It looks to me that the motor is stuck or frozen. I'm pretty sure that it's not skipping steps. The sound happens at varying heights and not just the first layer. The first time I noticed it, it was printing the cabin of Benchy. Z > 1 mm when I finally decided to ask this question. The sound is kind of loud, but that's most likely the resonance in the machine than a symptom, stating it nonetheless.
My setup:
---------
* **Printer:** Creality CR-10S
* **Extruder:** E3D Hemera
* **Nozzle temp:** 205-220 °C
* **Retraction:** Initially 5 mm at 40 mm/s, then 0.3 mm, then most recently none
* **Motor Vref:** just north of 800 mA. (I've read somewhere that the Hemera motor wants 800 to 1000 mA)
I'm just not sure what could be wrong here. I feel like I checked all the steps and I'm just missing something. | [
{
"answer_id": 11788,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "A knocking or clicking sound does not imply you **have a problem**, it implies that you **could have a problem**; it... | 2020/01/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11787",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883/"
] |
11,809 | I got an Anycubic Predator last month, and after resolving a few mechanical problems, I was able to get it printing decently well. The only significant modification I've made so far is a set of 8-diode TL Smoothers, and I'm now mostly operating it via Octoprint.
However, during the last few prints, I've noticed the temperature dropping midway through the print. It warms up and cools down fine, but for some reason it's not able to sustain the temperature throughout the print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoRn1.png)
In this case, the print started out at the correct temperature (200 °C), held that temp for around 2 hours, then it dropped to a lower temp (174 °C). It eventually went back up to the target temp, then dropped again 5 minutes later. I tried manually adjusting it to see if that could fix it, but no luck.
After this print completed, I restarted it to show how it is easily able to reach the target temp and hold it at the *start* of the print:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmQlC.png)
Any tips on diagnosing and resolving this issue? | [
{
"answer_id": 11811,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "Safety First\n------------\n\nLet's look at the graphs. First: you should swap firmware for one that has [Thermal Run... | 2020/01/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11809",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19846/"
] |
11,827 | I tried printing a ["improved" calibration cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2939079) and noticed that the printer was laying down dots instead of a solid line. This was right after switching out my extruder motor and tweaking retraction settings. I believe my first setting was 0.3 mm, then I tried 0.1 mm. I didn't get a picture of the first setting, but shown below is when retraction was set to 0.1 mm. I think the print was at layer 3 roughly. The difference is 0.1 mm had a higher frequency of dotting, ie more dots that were closer together.
This was only present in the first couple of layers. The dots weren't occurring in the same spot so the picture shows dots overlapping each other making a sort of "twisted" or braided look. This also happened on both the x-axis movements and the right side of the y-axis movements. The rest of the cube came out relatively well.
Settings
--------
* **Printer:** Creality CR-10S
* **Temp:** 205 °C at nozzle; 60 °C on bed
* **Retraction:** 0.3 mm initially, 0.1 mm (pictured)
* **Bed Distance:** ~0.1 mm
* **Nozzle Diameter:** 0.4 mm
* **Layer Height:** 0.2 mm. I usually do 0.4, but I was lazy with slicer presets (AstroPrint)
* **Hotend:** e3D Hemera direct, e3D v6 heater and nozzle
* **Filament:** Hatchbox PLA white
I never saw this issue before on my printer nor have I seen it mentioned in various articles/videos online.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/usdSs.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11836,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": true,
"text": "I have seen this a lot of times on my tronXY-X1 with an e3d-v6 via Bowden tube. It is *not* related to retraction but... | 2020/01/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11827",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883/"
] |
11,829 | Which type of filament material(s) is safe to use as an in-wall box for regular, 120v wiring? For instance, an electrical outlet box.
In case it matters, location is the state of Washington, USA. | [
{
"answer_id": 11830,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "I haven't tested the commercial \"blue boxes\" used to hold 120/240 V electrical outlets, switches, and splices to see... | 2020/01/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11829",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98/"
] |
11,839 | I got a new CR-10S 3D printer (I received it at Christmas). It has been printing just fine until yesterday, I was doing a print and it randomly paused, it did not restart on its own, I had to restart the print, then the item finished just fine. I am printing today, a very small item, the printer now stopped 3 times. How can I fix this, or do I need to return it? | [
{
"answer_id": 11925,
"author": "D DD",
"author_id": 19973,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19973",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It would be great if you can write what the printer says when it stops. \n\nI suggest you try printing other small ... | 2020/01/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11839",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19899/"
] |
11,843 | I could have sworn I read somewhere that when printing with TPU to make sure the part cooling fan is blowing. But I just did a quick Googling and couldn't find anything stating such on Matter Hackers or All3dp.
I currently don't have a part cooling fan attached (waiting for square nuts to come in). I've been able to get by printing PLA without the fan. I'm curious if this is going to be a major obstacle with TPU. | [
{
"answer_id": 11852,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "You'll probably be fine printing TPU with no fan. I just started printing with TPU, and did a... | 2020/01/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11843",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883/"
] |
11,845 | I just bought new eSUN PETg filament. When I started to extrude it, I heard popping sound same as moisture boiling out of it. I don't expect new eSUN vaccum sealed filament having moisture content. Is there any problem with my e3d v6? Is it possible that due to old filament, moisture is residing inside my extruder assembly and new filament is carrying it while extruding?
My settings :
* print temperature: 250 °C,
* bed temperature: 80 °C,
* retraction length: 6.5 mm,
* retraction speed: 25 mm/s,
* print speed: 10 mm/s,
* layer height: 25 micron
What do I do in this case? Should I clean the extruder assembly? | [
{
"answer_id": 11884,
"author": "cmm",
"author_id": 2082,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The extruder can't hold much water and transport it to the melt zone. Filament can. The printer behaves like the filam... | 2020/01/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11845",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19906/"
] |
11,850 | I am an absolute beginner having issues with my Monoprice Maker select v2 printer.
The left half of my prints look fine but the right half always gets messed up. When I watch it print the right half of an object it seems that the PLA isn't sticking even though I level the bed thoroughly beforehand. I don't think the problem is that the right half of my board is not sticky enough, because when I move the print so that the whole thing prints on the left half of the bed the problem persists.
I have attatched a photo to show what I am talking about. Any help is appreciated
Edit: I'm using inland pla. The extruder is at 220° and the bed temp is 60°
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PpBtK.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 11873,
"author": "Maxx Flow",
"author_id": 19938,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19938",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "* Try cleaning bed with isopropyl alcohol to remove grease from the bed. (increases stickyness)\n* Try increas... | 2020/01/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11850",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19912/"
] |
11,854 | Looking for something to smooth out a PLA print. Would Mod Podge be a good solution? Will it stick? | [
{
"answer_id": 11855,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "From what I've read about Mod Podge, it is an adhesive with a vinyl acetate base. As such it is similar to both P... | 2020/01/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11854",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422/"
] |
11,857 | I'm printing flat objects (like rectangular) with PLA on a glass bed and 70 celcius degrees (also tried 75 celcius too, 65 celcius and lower ends with adhesion problem in general). Also I use brims too. Most of the time, after a while it shrinks and warps (when print continues).
Room temperature is steady, there is no airflow to cool down things..
I tried to slow down to 20mm/sec. I tried to increase heat for first layer... Nothing helps.
I am suspicious about moisture of the filaments. Can it be related? | [
{
"answer_id": 11860,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "PLA doesn't usually have water absorption issues. It usually prints just fine ... Maker's Masaxx did a video u... | 2020/01/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11857",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16714/"
] |
11,859 | This is my first time asking for some help on here and I have Googled, but only found a few reference to this issue. I know I am doing something dumb but I have no clue what it is.
I get an unknown motherboard error every time I try to setup my MKS GEN L. At first I found that in the `boards.h` file there was no reference to this board and the `pins.h` file was not there either. I have added both of these in and still nothing. I have checked the `configuration.h` and as far as I can tell I cannot find the error.
I have tried this in 1.1.9 and 2.x of marlin and get the same error.
The message is:
```
Arduino: 1.8.9 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:33:0,
from C:\Users\name\OneDrive\Desktop\Ender 5 1.1.61 version (1)\Ender 5 1.1.61 version\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
pins.h:235:4: error: #error "Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h"
#error "Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h"
^~~~~
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:39:0,
from C:\Users\jcgra\OneDrive\Desktop\Ender 5 1.1.61 version (1)\Ender 5 1.1.61 version\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
SanityCheck.h:311:6: error: #error "BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET requires a probe."
#error "BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET requires a probe."
^~~~~
SanityCheck.h:624:8: error: #error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined."
#error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires the Z_MIN_PIN to be defined."
^~~~~
SanityCheck.h:909:4: error: #error "HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board."
#error "HEATER_0_PIN not defined for this board."
^~~~~
exit status 1
#error "Unknown MOTHERBOARD value set in Configuration.h"
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
```
My config file is as follows [Config.h](https://gist.github.com/cripto101/9e9e36f509352ab19033beb189e166d7).
Please let me know if there is anything else you might need to help with this matter and thank you for your time and attention. | [
{
"answer_id": 11866,
"author": "towe",
"author_id": 13171,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "The MKS GEN L board was added in Manmil release 1.1.7 .\n\nAccording to the configuration file you've linked and [p... | 2020/01/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11859",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19927/"
] |
11,875 | What is the thread pitch of the Ender 3's bed leveling screws? The diameter measures about 4mm. Are they M4 0.7 (coarse) pitch or 0.5 (fine) pitch? I'd like to develop rigorous formulas for the amount to turn the knobs by after measuring (or visually inspecting, since I can see an accurate 0.2 mm first layer decently well) leveling-test patterns in the corners rather than using a closed-loop tune-and-retry approach. | [
{
"answer_id": 11876,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I don't know what the value is, but there are a few ways to find out. It is very hard to measure this with a caliper... | 2020/01/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11875",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
11,890 | I have an Ender 3 with a removeable build surface. The build surface backing has become warped - the center is at least 0.3 mm higher than the corners. I'm not sure what the material of this plate is - it's the part behind the BuildTak-clone surface that sits on the aluminum heat bed and is clipped to it. This makes it impossible to level the entire bed, and annoyingly tedious to level it enough just to use the center, since the paper method doesn't work at the corners. Can this be fixed, or do I need to source a replacement for it? | [
{
"answer_id": 11876,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I don't know what the value is, but there are a few ways to find out. It is very hard to measure this with a caliper... | 2020/01/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11890",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
11,893 | Marlin has a [Linear Advance calibration pattern generator](http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html), but I find it's hard to use because:
* It only prints the initial layer on the bed, where bed irregularities interfere with accurate reading of it.
* It doesn't do proper retraction and priming, so a mess of strings and underextruded initial segments/non-adhesion mess up the results.
* It's hard to visually evaluate.
* Getting a very wide range of K values involves multiple runs.
* It's hard to clean up.
Is there a better procedure for calibration of K value for linear advance? | [
{
"answer_id": 11876,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "I don't know what the value is, but there are a few ways to find out. It is very hard to measure this with a caliper... | 2020/01/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11893",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
11,909 | I faced some problem with my 3D printer device. It seems the bed warms up without any problem, however, the hotend does not warm up!
Could you please help me identify what the problem is? | [
{
"answer_id": 11910,
"author": "Razwer",
"author_id": 19961,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19961",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I really hope the extruder doesn't warm up as this would be a problem with your stepper motor :)\n\nI'm sure you ... | 2020/01/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11909",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19959/"
] |
11,912 | I have a problem with some models like this (trim\_tabs version) : <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401852>
When I import the model on simplify, the tabs are sticky to the model (see pic3.png) but when I slice it, on the preview, tabs are not sticky to the model (see pic1.png).
I tried to do it on Cura and it works ; tabs stay stiky to the model (see pics2.png).
What's wrong ?
I attach my Simplify and Cura profile to help.
To get pics and profiles :
<https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NkMBosI-xalRGjTSua1xDejZ2MKWZcV9> | [
{
"answer_id": 11916,
"author": "Razwer",
"author_id": 19961,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19961",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It's not uncommon that different slicers have different effects on different models.\nThe techniques used to slic... | 2020/01/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11912",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19965/"
] |
11,913 | I have two printers, one is an Anet A8 and the other one is a CreatBot DX plus. On both of them I installed a BLTouch, firstly on the DX and today on the A8. I have never had a problem with the probe, but today I am experiencing some problems. I just set the offset, by doing the procedure, and I found to that the Z0 is -0.8 mm.
Problem is, when I start to print (I use Cura as a Slicer and OctoPrint), I run `G28` and `G29`, everything is fine and the bed gets mapped. When the print starts, something weird occurs: the nozzle goes down for the regions where the bed is higher! So, the layer that is put down, is very thin and the nozzle actually dives into the bed! It is like a `Z0` too low, so the nozzle crashes into the bed, but it is not because in `X100` `Y100` it is perfectly fine! Could you have any idea why this occurs?
### What have I tried?
**Changing bed springs**
Because I was curious, and impatient I changed the springs with the Ender ones I bought online. The problem is still here! I can see the bed closer to the nozzle during bed leveling, compared to the left side. So I screwed the right side, to see any difference. However, the nozzle seems to be always closer on the right side! I checked the X rods, they are leveled.
**Searched online**
I checked almost everywhere online and I found out that it could be a problem related to the bilinear bed leveling. So I changed to linear, and apparently now I can print! I believe it is something related to the mesh the firmware creates after the leveling, which is avoided for the linear. | [
{
"answer_id": 11916,
"author": "Razwer",
"author_id": 19961,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19961",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "It's not uncommon that different slicers have different effects on different models.\nThe techniques used to slic... | 2020/01/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11913",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19966/"
] |
11,932 | I'm trying to troubleshoot an issue with my 3D printer (Robo 3D R1+). It cannot print vertical walls well any more. Here is a picture of what it looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Y4PE.jpg)
The walls are very inconsistent. To correct this issue, I've tried:
* Changing the nozzle
* Tightening the hotend (to remove wobble)
* Dehydrating the filament
* Using brand new (good quality) filament
* Printing faster & slower
* Printing hotter & cooler
* Trying different slicers (Ultimaker Cura & Simplify3D)
* Putting on a belt tightener
The 5 motor drivers are all new as well, but this was already happening before I changed them. | [
{
"answer_id": 11934,
"author": "Community",
"author_id": -1,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/-1",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Mmm... you've tried lots of obvious things. I don't have a printer the same as yours, so my help is generic. \n\nHow... | 2020/02/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11932",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5579/"
] |
11,946 | Lately I noticed that there is a new type of nozzles (called airbrush nozzles?!?) available; typically found on those online overseas vendor sites. The nozzles are advertised for usage in E3D hardware, but are not found amongst the [E3D genuine nozzles](https://e3d-online.com/nozzles-for-3d-printer).
These nozzles look like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH4O2.png)
What are the basic physics principles or what is the engineering relevance for application of airbrush nozzles? (Gimmick or actual product improvement?) | [
{
"answer_id": 11947,
"author": "user77232",
"author_id": 12857,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "They are used for nonplaner 3d printing.\n\n<https://all3dp.com/4/nonplanar-3d-printing-gives-the-smoothest-to... | 2020/02/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11946",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/"
] |
11,953 | In analogy to: [What glues for bonding printed PLA to injection-molded plastic?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6723/4762), what are the best glues to use for PETG?
I mostly print in PETG and have occasional failed prints which I usually reprint. But what if I'd like to repair a print e.g. a split between layers or a part broken off?
Knowing that PETG is more "greasy" than PLA, what typical glues can you use to create a good bond; this question excludes using heat to (re-)bond. | [
{
"answer_id": 11955,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "From [forum](https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=9281)\n\n> \n> YasonAQ plastic - works great for me... | 2020/02/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11953",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/"
] |
11,956 | I am developing an [image to gcode program](https://github.com/Stypox/image-to-gcode), that would recognize edges and generate corresponding G-code to be sent to a plotter. I was able to detect edges using the [Sobel operator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sobel_operator); then the edges are converted to an [undirected graph](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graph) using a search heuristic of my creation. Converting a graph to functional gcode is not difficult: [depth first search](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth-first_search) does the job. The issue is that using this method the generated paths for the plotter are far from optimal, since they contain many movements that could be removed or shortened just by printing paths in a different order. This can be seen clearly in the images below.
Is there an **algorithm that can convert an undirected graph to optimal G-code paths**? Otherwise, if there are none or the problem is NP complete, what heuristics can be used to generate almost-optimal gcode (e.g. the ones used in programs such as Inkscape)?
The graph on the left is converted to the gcode on the right using depth first search on the connected component of the graph. The white and red lines represent, respectively, the visible writes and the invisible movements of the plotter. The G-code can be found [here](https://github.com/Stypox/image-to-gcode/blob/master/graph.nc).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWVqxm.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLFq3m.png) | [
{
"answer_id": 11958,
"author": "Davo",
"author_id": 4922,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "If you can save your plot as a dxf, you can use Repetrel to generate gcode with our \"find nearest neighbor\" optimiz... | 2020/02/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11956",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20028/"
] |
11,963 | All of a sudden I seem to be having a lot of issues with under extruding on my Ender 3. The bottom layer (of height 0.1 mm) prints perfectly fine. This is done at 15 mm/s speed. However, The moment the print moves to layer 2 and above (at the default speed of 60 mm/s), I start hearing a lot of clicking noise on the extruder.
So far I have tried the following
* Replace nozzle to eliminate clogs
* Cleaned the inside of the hot end assembly
* Calibrated extruder steps/mm
* Reduced the layer height from 0.3 mm to 0.2 mm
* Reduced feed rate to as low at 50 %
* Cleaned the filament feeder assembly and verified that it is able to push the filament properly (Extruding when the print is not happening works just fine with no clicking)
Even with all the above, the issue is still persisting. I am not what else could be causing this.
I am printing with PLA at 200 C | [
{
"answer_id": 11977,
"author": "Community",
"author_id": -1,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/-1",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Not allowed to comment, so have to answer:\n\n1. The temperature sensor is a thermally sensitive resistor. Unfortuna... | 2020/02/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11963",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14924/"
] |
11,967 | I'm printing with opaque grey PETG on glass. The intention is to produce a house number plate, so a shiny, production quality finish on the bottom. For this reason, extruding at 245 °C with a bed at 95 °C, to give a perfect glass finish with no filament lines showing. Smaller test versions have been very promising; this seems to be the maximum temperatures before warping or a severe elephant's foot arises.
However when printing the full-scale version, areas of the first layer of filament seem to go completely "transparent"; there seems to be filament there - you can feel the filament "comb" when you run your finger over it, and it feels a similar thickness to its neighbours.
On the attached photo you might think that those gaps are simply not printed yet, however you can see on the top right corner that it's actually started on the next layer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JYOVA.jpg)
What could be causing this? Is it a blockage which is interrupting flow, and maybe insufficient filament is being "stretched out"? Or maybe it could be something to do with temperature? Could it be insufficient layer height (I'm using 0.2 mm, but 0.24 mm on first layer, increasing further reveals filament lines, but tested higher and lower on smaller scale with success).
I've tested a range of extrude and temperatures and chosen the temps with the best results; but when I "go large" this always seems to happen. I've also calibrated the bed height using the 3 point adjustment screws on this printer (Qidi X-Plus). (The transparent areas are actually occuring in the center where the smaller test prints where working perfectly, so don't know how it could be to do with this). | [
{
"answer_id": 12003,
"author": "Krista K",
"author_id": 20086,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20086",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "PETG becomes transparent when the layers completely fuse. Translucency is from incomplete adhesion or voids lef... | 2020/02/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11967",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19946/"
] |
11,968 | The e3D volcano features an extended heater block of length 20 mm with the cartridge heater running parallel to the filament.
The purpose of this is to increase the speeds at which filament can be printed (of course the extruder and other factors may still be limiting factors).
My question is how capable would this heat block be of printing at slow speeds with a 0.4 mm nozzle?
Is printing still possible at lower speeds or is the filament heated too much that jams occur? Is the retraction performance okay? | [
{
"answer_id": 11970,
"author": "dex",
"author_id": 19305,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19305",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Speaking from first hand experience running a Volcano hotend, mostly using a 0.6 mm nozzle, but I have used 0.4 mm as... | 2020/02/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11968",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19038/"
] |
11,971 | I have an Ender 5 printer, which is a frame-based printer with no enclosure. However, I want to print ABS. Some experiments with a massive cardboard box have shown me I need an enclosure.
Because the printer has a box frame, fitting some perspex sheets will be easy. The bit that won't be easy is the top - the filament tube projects fairly high.
Will I need to cover the top for ABS though? I read somewhere that drafts are a killer for ABS, which perspex around the sides should prevent. I guess most of the heat from the heat bed will be lost out of the top, so will this be a problem for layer adhesion? | [
{
"answer_id": 11972,
"author": "Davo",
"author_id": 4922,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Sides without a top will help.\n\nSides with a top will help more.\n\nDo you need either? That depends. How warm, how... | 2020/02/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11971",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3864/"
] |
11,974 | I'm new to 3D printing and have bought a resin printer.
Cleaning with **Isopropol Alcohol** seems to be the rage, however I think this is unaware of cost savings. It appears **methylated spirits** is ok and is 25% the cost of Isopropol Alcohol.
I'm now down to wondering if I should buy methylated spirits or **turpentine** (I ruled out **kerosene** as too flammable)?
I'm leaning towards methylated spirits, however would like input.
**Factors** I'm curious about:
1. Cost: same for methylated spirits and turpentine.
2. Evaporation/solvency: ?
3. Flammability: ?
4. Poisonous levels: ?
5. Resin object cleaning effect: ?
6. Skin effects: ?
7. Smell: ?
I checked a few [sources](https://www.sydneysolvents.com.au/mineral-turpentine). | [
{
"answer_id": 13857,
"author": "LukeDunkley",
"author_id": 21277,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21277",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I would personally stick to isopropanol. Be aware that 3D printing is a very expensive hobby, but health wis... | 2020/02/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11974",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20051/"
] |
11,980 | I'd like to prefix this question with the fact that I know virtually nothing about 3D printers, aside from the general principles of how they work.
I've recently seen that SLS printers have become more affordable, to the point where in a few years they might be a compelling investment. I'm mainly interested in 3D printing miniatures for painting, and as such this one:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQUMO.jpg)
For scale, the miniature is about 150 mm long. I'm mainly worried about smaller details, such as the faces of the Xunjej or Driver. Will a consumer-grade SLS printer be able to print to such level of detail? | [
{
"answer_id": 11981,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "It's difficult to tell from your photo the level of detail required. A scale reference in the form of a metric ru... | 2020/02/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11980",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20061/"
] |
11,984 | I'm using firmware Marlin 2.0.3 on an Anet A8 printer. I'm using a Roko SN04-N NPN bed leveller. I've managed to set up 3 points bed levelling but I wanted to try the bilinear levelling.
Issue is, the sensor goes out of the aluminum bed ever so slightly during levelling, resulting in the printing head crashing on the bed.
Where can I set the grid for the bilinear levelling in the config file? I didn't find the option in the file and Google wasn't of any help this time. | [
{
"answer_id": 11985,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "If you have managed to setup 3-point levelling, you should be able to enable bi-linear levelling in the firmware.\n\... | 2020/02/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11984",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20065/"
] |
11,988 | I purchased a (very) low tier printer a while back, and now I am looking to start upgrading. First on my list is to upgrade the controller1).
My initial plan was to upgrade to an Arduino MigiOE with a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin, but as I started to try to find a RAMPS 1.4 board I started questioning my plan. Almost every source I could find for the board was either out of stock or very sketchy. Then I discovered that RAMPS 1.6 exists, but I can find even fewer places with it in stock.
Is the MigiOE + RAMPS combo still what people are using? I made a printer 4 years ago and that was what I used, but due to the scarcity of RAMPS boards for sale I am now unsure if it is still being used by the community.
If RAMPS still is the recommendation, what brands are reputable? (I'm trying to figure out if using RAMPS 1.4 with a MigiOE is an outdated solution and if there are better solutions these days.)
---
*1) Upgrading is necessary for:
Temperature/humidity sensors for monitoring/feedback; enclosure heaters (plan on having enclosed build space, work in a relative cold space); larger display with plenty of tactile switches; light sensor so the LEDs illuminating the enclosure can be modulated to provide more constant light levels for a webcam; possibly some joy sticks to manually maneuver the extruder and bed; etc. Basically I want something that can feasibly handle any unnecessary sensor/input I may eventually want to add. I'm familiar with Arduino and know it has those capabilities, but have no clue about other controllers.* | [
{
"answer_id": 12016,
"author": "Kevin",
"author_id": 691,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/691",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "As per <https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6>,\n\n> \n> The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGT... | 2020/02/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11988",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19371/"
] |
11,989 | For practicality sake, I need to print a design such that there will be weight hanging parellel to the layer lines. Is there an infill pattern that would be better than others at handling this?
I realize that all kinds of infill will still have the same layer boundaries. Just wondering if choosing any given infill might provide better results. | [
{
"answer_id": 11995,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Yes, some infill patterns are better than others for preventing separation of layers. Basica... | 2020/02/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11989",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422/"
] |
11,996 | I've been fighting on and off with issues with my build plate seemingly not being perfectly flat. I've ordered a machined straight-edge and some new feeler gauges to diagnose the problem (and test any potential replacement) better, but I'd like to get an idea of what options are available for obtaining a flatter build surface. I'm not really interested in approaches like BLTouch since I want accurate flat bottoms on my prints, not just consistent adhesion.
My printer is an Ender 3 and I believe my problem is a mix of wear to the Buildtak clone surface and warping in its backing plate. Mine is the newer model with removable buildplate and clips, and the backing is [reportedly](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9quifs/having_trouble_finding_ender_3_replacement/) a "glass fiber" (FR-4) material that's hard to find genuine replacements for.
Wnass seems like an obvious option - I might even put a buildtak clone on one side of it and use that most of the time - but I'm somewhat concerned about weight and whether having glass moved by the Y axis is going to limit acceleration. I've had (seemingly unrelated) problems on and off with layer shifts, which seem to be mostly Marlin's fault not mechanical, but I'm scared to introduce another factor that might encourage them.
Are there other non-glass options I should consider that would provide a rigid, flat backing? I'm very happy with the buildtak clones and their adhesion properties, so my leaning it to look for something that makes a good backing for them rather than a material that's intended to be built directly upon.
**Measurement results:** Using a machined straightedge and feeler gauges, the surface seems to be at least 0.10 mm but less than 0.15 mm lower within a couple inches of the bed center. This is plausibly just wear on the buildtak-clone surface, so I think I'll try to see if I can get by with just replacing that for now. But I'm still interested in the general topic of the question. | [
{
"answer_id": 12000,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "You are almost certainly attempting to optimize a component rather than optimize the **system.** The quality... | 2020/02/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11996",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/"
] |
12,009 | Is it possible to convert an image image to STL file format?
E.g. I don't need the coloring, I need the lines. | [
{
"answer_id": 12011,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "PNGs are 2-dimensional picture data files. STL however is a 3-dimensinal surface data files. The two are not inheren... | 2020/02/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12009",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19339/"
] |
12,027 | I'm facing weird "pillars" of underextrusion on outer walls of my XYZ test cube.
On the pictures below I`ve printed PLA test cubes with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm height and 210/50 °C hotends/bed temperature.
Gaps are appearing in walls parallel to both X and Y sides. The pictured side is parallel to Y face.
I'm slicing with Cura, my printer is a homebuilt around Anycubic Kossel with Marlin 2.0 onboard.
What have I tried already:
1. Temperature from 190 to 210 °C
2. Retraction from none to 6 mm 60 mm/sec
3. Tuning down Jerk in Marlin from [10,10,0.3] to [5,5,0.3]
4. Tuning down acceleration from 3000 to 1000
5. Tuning print speed from 60 to 30 mm/sec
6. Checking belts, nozzle and extruder.
Now I just ran out of ideas. Delta is calibrated by `G33` autotune. Mechanics looks just fine. What am I missing?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUYpL.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJxp4.jpg)
**UPD1**: tried removing combing - it did not help. But I noticed that my printer accelerates strangely at this parts
**UPD2**: could it be stuttering? I have 320 segments per second with block buffer size of 8 bytes(?)
**UPD3**: lowering segments count to 120 and raising block size to 32 | [
{
"answer_id": 12028,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "Localized underextrusion usually means you're oozing material somewhere it wasn't supposed t... | 2020/02/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12027",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20141/"
] |