qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
3,456 | I got a new MKS 1.4 controller board and it came with A4988 driver chips. But I can't figure out which way they install. I found something saying to match the printing on the back of the chip to that on the board. But I don't see anything that matches. Suggestions?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQers.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RdjAB.jpg) | [
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"text": "The below image was taken from [their AliExpress shop page](https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-printer-... | 2017/01/23 | [
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3,461 | I am making a "fun button", with a dome-shaped top. The vertical sides, top center, and raised lettering seem fine, but the more sloped outer parts of the dome are very thin, with some gaps and the infill pattern is quite visible. It's almost like the slicer isn't recognizing the sloped part as an exterior shell.
What is causing this, and how can I fix it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cU2IR.jpg)
The model was made in Fusion 360, sliced in Repetier with Slic3r, and printed on a Monoprice Maker Select Mini.
Edit: More information after checking values used and taking more photos.
This was my second attempt, after increasing the shell count already.
On my first print, I clearly had a low value for horizontal shells, top and bottom were both at the default of 3. I upped these both to 8. (Layer height is 0.13125.) The bottom of the button is now good. The "good" center area extends a little further out, so I think it's probably thicker up at the top of the dome. But the sloped sides are pretty much the same - this is why I'm thinking it's not being considered as a "horizontal shell".
Comparison:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6C7aX.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgwOd.jpg)
There are some design iterations, but the top surface is the same shape.
**Update:**
I did a print using Cura, with 0.8 mm shells, and it looks great!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4iC5.jpg)
I cut the two bad prints with a hacksaw to see a cross-section. The bottom is clearly thicker. The top on the outer infill void is pretty much the same. The top on the other void is thicker most of the way across, but suddenly changes to thin.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A27aV.jpg) | [
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"text": "Slice with more solid top layers. I always use five with low-density infill."
},
{
"answer_id": 3501,
"aut... | 2017/01/24 | [
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3,470 | I have a Tronxy P802M (very similar to the Anet A8, but using a Melzi2.0V5 board) that seems to work fine (I just finished building, and axes movement and the integrated display work) but when I try to connect to the printer from my Simplify3D on Windows 10, I get the following:
```
[...]
Connected to machine!
SENT: T0
READ: ok 0
READ: wait
SENT: M105
READ: ok 0
READ: T:24.44 /0 B:23.33 /0 B@:0 @:0
Connection failed.
```
My other printers all connect fine. | [
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"text": "The [Simplify3D support site](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/faq/#faq-4630) mentions to disable the \"wait... | 2017/01/26 | [
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3,471 | I received a Monoprice Maker Select v2 (I3 V2 clone) from my wife for Christmas. The sample .gcode files that came with the printer generally print great with no noticeable defects.
However, when I try to print miniatures for use with table-top gaming (D&D, primarily), I tend to get a lot of oozing and stringing. On top of that, bridge supports don't cool in time and tend to get fudged by the print nozzle, which results in oddities like arms being only half printed, sticking to the nozzle, and getting relocated to some other part of the print. If I use full grid supports with the most modest fill settings (8%) they end up being stronger than the miniature and are a real pain to remove.
My printer is calibrated, as level as can be (the desk it's on is slightly warped but I've got the printer in the center of the warp; there is no wobble or lean) and squared. The build plate is calibrated and set to the right height.
I'm using the version of Cura that came on the SD card with the printer (honestly not sure which one and I'm not at home to check). I've fiddled with print speed, extruder temp (ranging from 185 to 210), layer cooling, retraction settings, and tried switching to Slic3r (didn't go over well -- couldn't even get past the first layer).
I'm using Hatchbox silver PLA filament (1.75mm +/- 0.05mm). I don't have another filament I can test with to compare performance.
Even when I import the profile settings from one of the sample .gcode files I tend to end up with blobbing, pulling, and stringing all over the miniatures, in addition to missing or deformed parts. Notably, arms and hands -- most often overhangs -- tend to stick to the hotend and get repositioned, sending the whole thing out of whack.
I end up with similar problems when I use the Novice mode settings in Cura (Normal Quality, High Quality, etc).
Is there something I'm missing that I can do to improve the quality of small, detailed prints, or is the I3, as an entry-level printer, simply not up to the task? I'm especially interested in answers from users who have experience printing miniatures and their experiences in tuning for that type of print job.
A few things I've tried test printing:
[Printer calibration test model v1](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409)
[Printer calibration test model v3](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023)
Both of these came out very stringy, with lots of blobbing and layer pulling, especially towards the upper portions of the taller elements.
I have also tried printing these two models:
[Knight with sword - high detail](https://www.shapeways.com/product/YDCPJF8KV/knight?optionId=59811831)
[Elf monk - high detail](https://www.shapeways.com/product/4Y699HM6N/elf-monk?optionId=61531553&li=marketplace)
All test prints of these two models had at least one missing hand due to it getting stuck to the hotend and pulling off the part, and both demonstrated lots of minor blobbing and pulling on otherwise smooth surfaces, with loss of detail in the more finely detailed areas. Here's a sample of the output for the knight model. Please ignore the fact that he has been dismembered, that was mostly my fiddling with it post-printing (I guess I don't know my own strength), though the left hand was not well-attached and fell off rather easily. He was printed with both hands and feet/base intact, but you can see the blobbing and pulling pretty well.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T4pth.jpg) | [
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"text": "I have an Alunar(Anet) Prusa i3 printer I bought from amazon 7 months ago. I have not done much for ultra high d... | 2017/01/26 | [
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3,472 | [In this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/2820/5782) user [Barafu](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4345/barafu-albino) says,
>
> Yet I manage to keep my tolerances +- 0.05 mm which is enough for everything but miniature printing.
>
>
>
I have asked for clarification on that answer regarding what is meant by "miniature printing" but in the meantime, I want to ask the general question.
What impact does dimensional accuracy of filament have on final print quality, and why? Does it vary between different filament types? | [
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"text": "Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament... | 2017/01/26 | [
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3,482 | Brand new to Slic3r, I've been using Cura for a while, so not sure is happening. I tried to load [this Knight model](https://www.shapeways.com/product/YDCPJF8KV/knight) into Slic3er (v1.2.9 running on OS X), and it's reporting "Manifold: auto-repaired (11430 errors)", and the model looks incomplete. Hovering the model with the mouse shows more details:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb2DY.png)
Preview mode shows supports holding up the head, so I don't think it's just a screen rendering issue. But I loaded this same model into Cura earlier today, and it worked just fine; I've printed the resulting GCode. So I believe the model is fine. I wanted to print using Slic3r and compare the results.
Is this a known issue with certain types of models? Not sure what to try next. | [
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"text": "Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament... | 2017/01/29 | [
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3,487 | I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 (A.K.A. Maker Select, Cocoon Create).
My extruder got clogged: I noticed that it wasn't extruding, so I stopped my print, removed the fan, heatsink and the extruder motor and I saw that the clog is at the heater block level.
This is a what I have:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDyF2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iL1mQ.jpg)
As you can see, there is some PLA clogged at the very beginning of the 1.75mm hole in the extruder block.
I can see there is something white inside (a stone? something that is **not** PLA?). I tried to heat up the extruder to 250°C and pushing with an hex tool but the block did not move.
I solved a lot of clogged nozzle issues with the [cold pull method](https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-How-to-Unclog-the-Hotend-The-Cold-Pull), it always worked like a charm, this time I tried too but as a result the PLA filament broke and the "stone" is still there.
Does anyone know if there is a way to unclog the extruder in this situation?
Do I have to change it? | [
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"text": "I'm sure this is not the best solution, and if you have some ethyl acetate you should try that before going \"the ... | 2017/01/29 | [
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3,492 | I have seen many people saying on this site and many other 3D printing websites that 24 V systems are safer, compared to 12 V systems. By safer, I am talking in terms of fires or other electrical and component failures.
Why would a 24 V system cause less danger? I would think that 12 V would be safer because it is very common (automotive) and many parts have been around for a while that use it. Although there are an increasingly amount of boards that support 24 V, many don't or need fuses or other parts that do support 24 V.
Also, many parts that I have used are rated for 12 - 24 V. A 12 V power supply can go a bit over fairly comfortably. A 24 V power supply can't without partially going over the rating.
If I had to build a printer designed with safety as a main priority, what voltage would be best? | [
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"text": "From a pure safety standpoint there is nothing about a 24v system that is distrinctly more safe than a 12v syste... | 2017/01/30 | [
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3,493 | I print on a glass bed covered with BuildTak. Prints stick well, release is difficult. They sell a mod, self adhesive magnetic sheet that holds a steel plate which in turn you put the BuildTak on making it easier to get your prints off by twisting the flexible steel as opposed to chiseling your print off a glass plate while attempting to not peel chunks of the expensive Buildtak off.
Magnetic sheets have different strengths proportional to thickness in milimeters. I can get 0.03 mm locally which provides 85 lbs pull per sqft. and was wondering if this might work. It's hard to find the stronger pulls, 0.045 mm and 0.06 mm which can pull 115 and 145 lbs respectively.
I'd prefer cut my own new bed sandwich rather than pay 90 bucks for one.
* Has anyone made a bed using adhesive magnetic sheet>
* What thickness magnetic sheet has worked for you?
* What thickness steel are you using?
Assume it has to flex easily to twist the part of and also flexible enough for the magnet to pull it flat.
---
With respect to [the comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3493/bed-design-for-easy-release-pla#comment4773_3493) by tbm0115:
>
> I don't think you need that much magnetic pull for this application. Adhering basic coin magnets to a material in a large array should secure the material appropriately for a desktop printer.
>
>
>
I see where you are going with coin magnets. Have you tried this? In the original Makerbot Cupcake this is how it was done though with larger build surfaces you get warp on metal plates. Most metal sheet comes from the plant on a roll. Though your metal looks nice and flat, temperature changes will cause it to warp and as you know with SLA printers, a changing bed can cause a failure. This happened on the original Makerbot replicator 1st release followed by using a machined plate as a replacement. | [
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"text": "Follow up:\n\nI used the 6mil magnet, cut a sheet of thin steel, (about .5mm) to fit, added a layer of Buildtak and... | 2017/01/30 | [
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3,507 | I am planing on printing something that will make contact with PCB boards. The print will be most likely to be in PLA. I don't want to fry the PCB board so I want to know if 3D printed PLA objects are conductive.
I googled and found out about special non-conductive PLA and conductive PLA. But what about the conductivity of normal PLA? | [
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"text": "Normal PLA is non-conductive. You can take an $\\Omega$-meter to a test part if you're really concerned somehow yo... | 2017/02/01 | [
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3,510 | I intend and would like to print a transparent hemisphere. I have a Taulman T-Glase clear 1.75 mm filament and I have XTC-3D.
You can read this interesting page, [Hacking t-glase to look more like glass!](http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html)
First question, what kind of printing settings should I use? Should I go for a low infill percentage or a high one? Should I go for line or hexagon? I would say 5% line but perhaps there is a better setting.
Then, how should I use XTC-3D as mentioned on the above link? I'm a little bit confused how it can make the part more transparent. | [
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"text": "Refraction of light is caused by changes in medium or angle of inflection. Any changes in medium will cause refrac... | 2017/02/02 | [
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3,514 | Last night there was an error in printing that caused the printer to stop printing, but kept the hotend on. This morning I discovered that it had fused to what it was printing after remaining on all night - it took some time to remove.
Prints afterwards showed signs of under extrusion. Now when I tell it to extrude a millimeter, it no longer extrudes a thin strand, but instead exactly a millimeter of filament comes out the same diameter as it went in. Cleaning the hotend has done nothing, cleaning the extruder has done nothing.
I'm left with two conclusions, either:
* this is what is supposed to happen, it was broken the whole time, I had calibrated it for the broken setting and just need to recalibrate everything, or;
* something, most likely the nozzle, is broken. | [
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"text": "When you have a disaster print like this you almost always get carbon in the hot end. I have micro hand drills (0.... | 2017/02/02 | [
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3,519 | I'm not really sure if I'm asking the right question here, but I just made a noob mistake of buying 3 mm filaments instead of 1.75 mm. I have a Makerbot Replicator 2 which I've been using and so far it is pulling in 1.75 mm quite well.
Is there any way I can still make use the 3 mm filaments, or do I need to use the filaments on different models? If it is the latter, which particular model is able to pull in 3 mm filament well? | [
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"text": "This is not a definitive answer (and has turned into a ramble), as I have not yet had to change my filament size... | 2017/02/03 | [
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3,521 | I am wondering if it would it be feasible (at an affordable price) to 3D print a boat hull (small dimensions, maybe something like 60x40x20 cm).
I am mostly concerned about:
* **durability** (against salty water, UV rays, extreme temperatures
(under the sun or in a cold ocean)
* **strength** (the material should be able to resist some chocs and maybe a little bit of pressure if a wave was to smash on it).
* **waterproofness**
Those characteristics should *last* during extended periods of time in water (at least several months, maybe more, about a year or two).
**Is there any easily accessible 3D printing material that would match those characteristics?** | [
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"text": "Something similar has been done in ABS already, although I don't expect it gets left in the water for years. See the [... | 2017/02/03 | [
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3,527 | Many 3D printers employ a GT2 band for the *y*-axis plate and the printhead in the *x*-axis carriage.
However, there seems to be the obvious disadvantages of:
* stretching (and need for adjustment) and;
* possibly slight inaccuracy, or "wobble" (for want of a better word (as wobble is often used in describing *z*-axis deviations)), due to the elasticity of the band.
Is there any particular reason why GT2 is used over a straight forward rack and pinion system?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUTlt.jpg)
In particular, for the *y*-axis plate, as a rack would appear to me, be:
* easy to install;
* more accurate, and;
* require a lot less adjustment1.
If the rack is made from aluminium, surely *weight* can not be a major factor... or can it?
Is *cost* a factor? A pinion seems to cost around \$10-\$15 (650 B\$, here in BKK, Thailand), which is obviously more than a reel of GT2 and a couple of GT2 pulleys.
Would the *rigidity* of the rack be less forgiving of an imperfectly aligned axis, something which the GT2 band and pulleys combination would not be so affected by?
---
### TL;DR
Which of these factors cause designers to use GT2 en lieu of a rack?
* Accuracy
* Weight
* Cost
* Maintenance
* Tolerence of non-square axes, manufacturing errors.
---
1 Maybe constant adjustment is not required on an everyday basis, but the tension would still need to be checked now and again, whereas a pinion would not have this requirement. | [
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"text": "With a belt system, the belt engages roughly half the pulley. This, and the tension in the belt, ensures the ... | 2017/02/05 | [
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3,532 | I have a Prusa i3 made by Geeetech. My 3D prints keep suffering from warping when printing with PLA.
Whenever I print something with a base at about 10 cm x 10 cm, at least one corner of the print would warp up. I've read numerous articles about warping and tried all sorts of methods. My printer's bed is level, and heated to 60°C. My bed is made from clean glass. I've tried all sorts of adhesives. I tried blue tape, and used hair spray.
The only way for me to combat this is gluing the base to blue tape with 502 Glue. I used brim and the whole brim just warps up. I sometimes leave the model printing over night. For the first few hours it's perfectly flat. When I go back to it the next morning I'd find one corner warped up. This is very dysfunctional to my prints.
Is there a reliable way to stop this warping from happening? | [
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"text": "For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. \n\nThat said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: \n\... | 2017/02/05 | [
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3,537 | SketchUp Make is licensed for non-commercial work only. This includes the output from the software.
>
> Trimble Navigation Limited and/or its affiliates ("Trimble") gives you
> a personal, worldwide, royalty-free, non-assignable and non-exclusive
> license to use the executable version of the Software for
> non-commercial use only. Non-commercial use means: you may not sell,
> rent, lease or lend the output of the Software or the Services.
>
>
>
The above retrieved 2016-02-07. The full [SketchUp Make license](https://web.archive.org/web/20181005195026/https://www.sketchup.com/license/b/sketchup-make) can be found on the [SketchUp website](https://www.sketchup.com/).
In what ways does this restrict my use of SketchUp Make generated material with sites that allow the sharing of models (and deisgn files)? This would include sites such as [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), [MyMiniFactory](https://www.myminifactory.com/) and [3D Warehouse](https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/?hl=en).
---
For example, must I always set a non-commercial license for my designs?
Thingiverse allows several different license choices to be selected.
Can I permit the design to be printed by someone for money?
Thingiverse has links to [3D HUBS](https://www.hubs.com/) and [Print a Thing](https://printathing.com/) which can be disabled per model.
Obviously [the SketchUp Pro license](https://www.sketchup.com/license/b/sketchup-pro) makes many of the restrictions on what can be done with the output go away, which would be much simpler. However I do not expect to generate anywhere near the costs of purchasing a license ($695 US at the time of writing) by tweaking a few designs now and then.
---
I want to comply with the licenses but I need to understand the limits of what I am permitted to do with SketchUp Make in order to do that. It may be much more prudent for me to invest my time in learning other tools that have no restrictions on what can be done with the output.
As this is a legal question it might matter what jurisdiction I am in and what jurisdiction the sites I may share to are in. I am based in the UK. Thingiverse is based in the State of New York. MyMiniFactory uses the Laws of England as a base. 3D Warehouse selects the State of California. | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "IANAL, naturally, so take this with that in mind.\n\nFrom what I've read and been instructed, any software wh... | 2017/02/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3537",
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3,545 | I'm still putting aside money for buying my first 3D printer and I'm designing all the things I have to print.
As I have **a lot of things** to print I would like to print as much of them as possible in a single print.
I have some arcs of circle (between 90° and 320° and 10/30 cm of diameter) and I'm going to slice them so I'll be able to print many of them, vertically, in a single print. I read in the internet that I cannot print over 45°... but starting from where?
The image below shows how I would like to print my (orange) things
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wNnOf.png)
I suppose I can print my things without supports because from Y-start to Y-end they are <= 45° (as the green line shows) is that right?
The red line, instead, shows a case where the angle, starting from a (Y: 50%) point, is higher than 45°.
**So the question is**: Can I print my things in such way? | [
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"text": "IANAL, naturally, so take this with that in mind.\n\nFrom what I've read and been instructed, any software wh... | 2017/02/07 | [
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3,552 | I have just built a Prusa i3 MK2 printer. One of its features is automatic XYZ axes calibration done using inductive probe which is located next to the nozzle.
In my case, this calibration procedure failed with the message:
>
> *XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.*
>
>
>
The [manual](http://www.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk2_en.pdf) on this problem reads:
>
> 1. **XYZ calibration failed. Bed calibration point was not found.**
>
> Calibration routine did not find a bed sensor point. The printer stops close to the bed
> point, which it failed to detect. Please verify, that the printer is assembled correctly,
> that all axes move freely, the pulleys do not slip and the print nozzle is clean. If
> everything looks good, re-run the X/Y calibration and verify with a sheet of paper
> between the nozzle and the print bed that the print nozzle does not touch the print
> bed during the calibration routine. If you feel a friction of the nozzle against the sheet
> of paper and the nozzle is clean, you need to screw the PINDA probe slightly lower
> and re-run the X/Y calibration.
> 2. **XYZ calibration failed. Please consult the manual.**
>
> The calibration points were found in positions far from what should be expected for a
> properly assembled printer. Please follow the instructions of case 1).
>
>
>
My nozzle is new, therefore clean and I have already checked that all axes move without any problems. The manual does not seem to offer any additional advice.
I tried to put the PINDA probe lower. It had helped the calibration, but at the same time the probe was lower than the nozzle, which means I couldn't print with it being on the extruder.
What else can I check? How to find the issue? This is my first printer, so I'm totally clueless. | [
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"text": "I suggest that you ask on [shop.prusa3d.com](http://shop.prusa3d.com) and click the Forum tab button. The fol... | 2017/02/08 | [
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3,554 | The problem
-----------
When I print with my mElephant 3D printer from Makeblock, the prints come out with waved walls like in the picture below. I am using PLA filament from <https://makeblock.lt>
What I tried
------------
I tried changing temperatures 190-220, tried to change the flow rate. Also checked if the bolts are not lose. Everything seems good.
My printer
----------
 | [
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"text": "Repeating patterns like that usually stem from issues in the Z axis. This is likely caused by bent screws which in turn ... | 2017/02/09 | [
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3,557 | We have a toy with some broken parts, an Executivity Gear Master. I don't think it's made anymore. Some tiny parts were easy to break and we'd like to 3d print some replacement parts. We don't have CAD or any other 3D drawings file, just a few of the unbroken parts. What's the best way to get some of these printed? Do I have to turn this into a 3D file first? (Is there a quick way to do that from the part itself?) Or is there a way to do it where I just need the part, rather like getting a spare key cut from a pre-existing key being used as the template?
Here's a photo of the part I need to print. Placed next to a quarter for size comparison:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZ6VN.jpg) | [
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"text": "Repeating patterns like that usually stem from issues in the Z axis. This is likely caused by bent screws which in turn ... | 2017/02/10 | [
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3,568 | I saw this cool [Nuka-Cola bottle opener](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1231999). I made it:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysVvW.jpg)
As you can see, nasty gaps have appeared in the text. What could've caused them? I am sure I set the filament diameter correctly. So why did the Slic3er not generate enough paths here to fill the letters properly?
I used Slic3er and Repetier Host. My printer is Prusa i3 MK2 1.75mm. The material I used was PLA. | [
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"text": "I had a similar issue as described in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3461/why-does... | 2017/02/11 | [
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3,572 | I am using a Prusa i3 printer and just recently I have been having problems with the first layer. Here is a picture of what it looks like.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ShfZn.jpg)
I have tried levelling the bed and it seems to be level. I was using a glue stick before but it started bubbling on that, so I switched to tape and that worked once but it is not working now. I wiped the tape with rubbing alcohol and it happened again.
What else can I do to get the first layer right? | [
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"text": "Oh wow. You are way over cooking your PLA. It is bubbling because it is BOILING. I can tell you have it too hot b... | 2017/02/11 | [
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3,582 | I´m currently writing my own firmware for a custom delta printer. Therefore I also need to read G-code from programs like Slic3r. Even with an small example like an cube I´m struggling to find out where the z-coordinate is hidden in the code. Here is a small example of the code.
```
; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-02-13 at 15:08:01
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.58mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.58mm
M107
M104 S205 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0
G1 Z0.500 F7800.000
G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X-31.893 Y0.000 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
G1 X-31.893 Y-25.001 E3.57871 F1800.000
G1 X-31.496 Y-27.307 E3.72646
G1 X-30.350 Y-29.347 E3.87420
G1 X-28.588 Y-30.886 E4.02194
G1 X-26.413 Y-31.748 E4.16968
G1 X-25.000 Y-31.894 E4.25936
G1 X25.000 Y-31.894 E7.41663
G1 X27.306 Y-31.497 E7.56437
G1 X29.346 Y-30.351 E7.71211 F1800.000
G1 X30.885 Y-28.589 E7.85985
G1 X31.746 Y-26.414 E8.00759
G1 X31.893 Y-25.001 E8.09727
G1 X31.893 Y25.001 E11.25470
G1 X31.496 Y27.307 E11.40244
G1 X30.350 Y29.347 E11.55019
G1 X28.588 Y30.886 E11.69793
G1 X26.413 Y31.748 E11.84567
G1 X25.000 Y31.894 E11.93535
G1 X-25.000 Y31.894 E15.09262
G1 X-27.306 Y31.497 E15.24036
G1 X-29.346 Y30.351 E15.38810
G1 X-30.885 Y28.589 E15.53584
G1 X-31.746 Y26.414 E15.68358
G1 X-31.893 Y25.001 E15.77326
G1 X-31.893 Y0.075 E17.34724
G1 E15.34724 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X-22.715 Y-22.716 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
G1 X22.715 Y-22.716 E4.86865 F1800.000
G1 X22.715 Y22.716 E7.73745
G1 X-22.715 Y22.716 E10.60609
G1 X-22.715 Y-22.641 E13.47016
G1 X-23.607 Y-23.609 F7800.000
G1 X23.607 Y-23.609 E16.45155 F1800.000
G1 X23.607 Y23.608 E19.43309
G1 X-23.607 Y23.608 E22.41447
G1 X-23.607 Y-23.534 E25.39128
G1 X-24.500 Y-24.501 F7800.000
G1 X24.500 Y-24.501 E28.48541 F1800.000
G1 X24.500 Y24.501 E31.57969
G1 X-24.500 Y24.501 E34.67382
G1 X-24.500 Y-24.426 E37.76336
```
Here some configuration details:
G-code flavor: RepRap
Nozzle diameter: 0,5mm
filament
diameter: 3mm
general:
layer height: 0,4 mm
perimeters: 3
solid layers top:3 bottom :3
[Here](http://pastebin.com/YW05y3ze) is the full G-code | [
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"text": "It isn't hidden at all. It's just that the Z-axis position only changes with each layer change, so the Z coo... | 2017/02/13 | [
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3,587 | According to Wikipedia, Tetrahydrofuran dissolves PLA. It also apparently dissolves PET.
>
> THF is considered a relatively nontoxic solvent, with the median lethal dose (LD50) comparable to that for acetone.
>
>
>
Wikipedia further states that it's not particularly dangerous provided you keep it away from air circulation, so that it does not form peroxides.
>
> One danger posed by THF follows from its tendency to form highly explosive peroxides on storage in air.
>
>
>
So well, this seems acceptable compared to other possible solvents which are all ridiculously dangerous. The question at hand is now of practical nature:
* Is Tetrahudrofuran actually viable replacement for acetone, which only works with ABS?
I am asking because the fact that it does dissolve PLA does not really at all mean that it will work well. It could damage PLA structure, be more toxic than wikipedia says or not dry well. | [
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"text": "From what I have read, THF is not super effective, it seems that Dichloromethane or DCM is actually a better s... | 2017/02/14 | [
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3,590 | I have a cheap cartesian printer with the usual arrangement - X axis with three linear bearings, build plate moving as Y axis on three linear bearings as well, Z axis with lead screws. After about 2 kg of filament printed, I can see that one of the linear bearings (the single bearing on one side of the Y axis) is leaving an almost black residue at the front of the axis. I have thoroughly oiled all of the bearings before mounting them and repeated that after about 1 kg of filament printed. No other bearing is showing this issue, and the black goo appears only on the front side of the rod, not the back side. What might cause this goo - is the bearing breaking up or is it just some residue from the manufacturing process that is slowly being pushed out of the bearing? | [
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"text": "After completion of the print job, I was able to perform a closer inspection. The black goo contains metallic parti... | 2017/02/14 | [
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3,591 | Using a 3D pen I printed a small box. However, I was doing it on plain paper and of course the paper didn't come off the plastic very well. It didn't matter for that specific case, but if I want to print something else, which non-sticky surface would you recommend? Is there any way to use transparent surface (so that I can put a paper with picture as a guide under it)? | [
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"text": "You could use a piece of glass, that's what most people using 3D printers have as a build surface. An easy source of glas... | 2017/02/14 | [
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3,595 | I've recently initialized OctoPi onto my Raspberry Pi, proceeded to connect it to my local internet, and then connected it to my FlashForge Creator Pro (2014 edition)
Everything seemed to be going smoothly until I tried to connect to the printer; the Pi didn't seem to be able to pick up a usable Baudrate (after being trying out all of the usable ones).
For example, when trying out 9600, I would get:
>
> Trying baudrate: 9600
>
>
> Send: N0 M110 N0\*125
>
>
> Recv: ��r># ���& �
>
>
>
What should I do to fix the problem?
---
*Note that I got the same types of messages back (with garbled 'special' characters) when trying using the "**auto connect**" feature.* | [
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"text": "I got the same problem. \n\nAuto-detect baud rate was not working too. \n\nSo I manually tried every baud-rate ... | 2017/02/14 | [
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3,596 | I have a Prusa i3 that homes properly when you use the menu. After adjusting the bed and homing several times, it keeps the head at a reliable distance. However, when I try to print from an SD card, the printer buries the hot end in the heat bed.
What needs to be adjusted to fix this issue?
G-code from one of the 2 files
```
M190 S50.000000
M109 S200.000000
;Sliced at: Mon 13-06-2016 15:39:25
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.2 Walls: 1.2 Fill: 20
;Print time: 3 hours 47 minutes
;Filament used: 11.435m 34.0g
;Filament cost: None
;M190 S50 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S200 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F3000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F3000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
;Layer count: 446
;LAYER:0
M107
;LAYER:1
M106 S127
G1 F2400 E-4.50000
G0 F3000 X81.474 Y58.603 Z0.300
;TYPE:WALL-INNER
G1 F2400 E0.00000
G1 F2220 X83.063 Y56.456 E0.06663
G1 X84.277 Y55.080 E0.11240
G1 X84.836 Y54.444 E0.13353
G1 X85.799 Y53.476 E0.16759
G1 X86.755 Y52.587 E0.20015
G1 X87.179 Y52.244 E0.21376
G1 X88.836 Y50.911 E0.26680
G1 X89.285 Y50.610 E0.28029
``` | [
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3,598 | So they say PLA is biodegradable. But I still don't know how much biodegradable.
I live in a flat and we have composting trash can in the courtyard. However if I throw PLA in there and it does not decompose, neighbors are gonna be pissed since many of them are intending to use the soil for their balcony flowers.
So can I really compost PLA, or does "biodegradable" just mean it falls apart *eventually*, eg. in years? And **if** it decomposes, is it safe to use for plants? | [
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"text": "PLA products will take up to 6 months to degrade in commercial composting facility. In home composting facility,... | 2017/02/15 | [
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3,605 | Is there anything to the process of 3D printing that might make the dice unfair/land on a specific side more frequently? Or will any imperfections be negligible, thus making the dice fair? I'm more concerned about making a d20 than anything else, so focus on that shape if need be.
---
I am using a MakerBot Replicator+ with FDM, so take this into consideration if it affects your answer, and if you believe a different printing process would have an advantage over this don't hesitate to include it. | [
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"text": "It probably won't be fair.\n--------------------------\n\nIncidentally, I have a decent amount of experience with 3D... | 2017/02/15 | [
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3,613 | I have [Ultimaker 2+ 3D Printer](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus "Ultimaker 2+") and I need to print a piece that doesn't fit within the build volume of the printer. Even though it would fit I'd still need to print it in two parts because I'll need to fit some equipment inside. I could use glue to put it together, but I'll need to remove the equipment later.
So I'm trying to find some feasible solutions how to attach/snap it together. The wall thickness is currently 3mm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFckZ.png "Cut Plane")
Plane for cutting the part.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2hhV.png "Cut Cross Section")
Cut cross section. | [
{
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"text": "If the equipment has to be removable, then there's no point in trying to make a one-piece object in the first... | 2017/02/16 | [
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3,617 | This has happened a few times whenever I print with the white PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm). It seems that the print job produces smooth sidewalls for most of the part but at a certain point and above, the walls become rough as if the alignment is off or something. I've attached a picture to show the issue. Does anybody have any insight?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/796O7.jpg)
I'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal and some of the print settings are listed below:
* Slicer: Slic3r
* [First] Layer height: 0.2 mm
* Perimeters: 2
* Solid Layers [top/bottom]: 3
* Infill: 25%
* Fill pattern: Rectilinear
* Top/Bottom Fill pattern: Concentric
* Perimeter speed: 30 mm/s
* Infill speed: 80 mm/s
* Travel speed: 150 mm/s
* Acceleration (perimeters): 1000 mm/s2
* Acceleration (default): 3000mm/s2
* Default extrusion width: Slic3r chosen
* Print temperature: 220°C
I've noticed in the Slic3r rendering that the affected area seems to be the point where the infill switches from 25% to solid as seen in the included picture. If this is the problem, is there any way to enforce solid infill a few layers below this to eliminate the awkward transition, or specify a smaller extrusion width at this point?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfWDP.png) | [
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"text": "Slic3r has an option of\n\n```\nSolid infill threshold area \n\n```\n\nwhich is the area that when you pass it (an... | 2017/02/18 | [
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3,619 | The question is how to scale an existing mesh without changing the thickness of the walls?
I am using Blender to create STL files for 3D printing. Let's say I create a shell for a model railroad car. Since 1/87th is the most common scale I make the walls of the shell just thick enough to make it rigid in 1/87 scale. Now, if I want to print the same shell in a larger scale, say 1/48, the wall thickness will nearly double and it will waste material printing walls that are thicker than needed. If I want to print in 1/160 the printing may fail because the wall thickness falls below the minimum the printer will support.
Any ideas? | [
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"text": "Your question falls into two different categories, here at 3D Printing SE and there, at [Blender SE](https://blend... | 2017/02/18 | [
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3,621 | A plastic gear of an older DVD player broke. I always read about being 3D printing a "repair revolution". So I looked for a template to give to some printing service, but I found none (and nothing close to it).
Could you please explain me, what steps a layman should take to get the gear piece replaced using 3D printing? | [
{
"answer_id": 3622,
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"text": "If you have the remaining pieces of the gear and enough remains to determine certain measurements, one can either ... | 2017/02/18 | [
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3,631 | I have been trying to print an object that is 4 inches tall. About at 3 inches it falls off the bed. I am using tape on the heated bed and right before the print I am wiping the bed with rubbing alcohol. After the first time I tried hot gluing it to the bed when it was mid way through so that it wouldn't fall off but that didn't work. I am printing at 185°C and the bed is 55°C. I am using PLA to print. Should I increase the temperature of the bed or is there something else that is wrong? | [
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"text": "Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA... | 2017/02/20 | [
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3,633 | I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and wanted to get a few things understood.
Firstly, I am unclear on how Hexagonal infill is stronger than, say, diamond pattern.
Can anyone explain how the different shape causes the structure to be stronger? I saw a few places that hex is stronger; usually, more vertices means 'weaker' shape (i.e. a triangle is stronger than a square), so how does that work with hex vs diamond?
Also, in small objects, where the printer makes only a single dot as the infill (a dot instead of a line in larger objects), does the infill strengthen the object at all?
EDIT: I am trying to understand the effect of the infill pattern on the *strength* of the print, regardless of print time. | [
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"text": "Correction: I believe I found what you are looking for:\n\n[Report from EngineerDog.com](https://engineerdog.com/2015/... | 2017/02/21 | [
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3,641 | Marlin offers a bunch of different choices for auto-levelling and assisted manual levelling for bent build plates (mesh levelling), but for the moment I want to level things completely manually.
That is, I want to move Z to 0, disable steppers, and then move around the print head and adjust the distance between bed and nozzle at various points with a piece of paper.
With the old Repetier based firmware on my printer, selecting "home all axes" did not only home XYZ to endstops, but it also moved the head to position (0, 0, 0) afterwards. Then I could simply disable steppers via the menu and go on with my levelling. Note that in my case, the coordinates of the endstop positions are negative for all axes, so moving to the endstops alone isn't cutting it.
With Marlin, selecting the "auto home" option merely moves to the endstops and then to some positive Z position (+10). This means I have to use the menu to manually move Z back to 0, which is quite inconvenient, unless I have a PC nearby that allows me to enter G-code.
So, that leaves two related questions for me:
Is there some simple way to move to (0, 0, 0) with the menu?
Can I implement an assisted manual levelling (i.e. some procedure that simply moves the head between a number of different X/Y positions) easily? Does something like that already exist? If not, I wonder why. | [
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"text": "Write a few pieces of gcode to do this. Place it on an SD-card (I assume you have a reader) and select the file ... | 2017/02/22 | [
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3,659 | I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3.
I have done many excellent prints with this printer, and have first hand experience that it can do a pretty much flawless print.
But... Recently, I am experiencing weird results. My "flow" seems uneven. When laying down the first layer of the raft, I can see it looks like it "beads" in some places. Thin lines with little "beads" here and there (which seem to be in a constant pattern) i.e. -------()-----()-----()------()------ etc.
I initially thought, wet filament... But drying the filament had no noticeable effect. Further more, all my prints seem to be horribly laminated at a certain "height" of the print. This is really strange as it will print perfectly and only at a certain height, mess up about 5mm of layers (height wise), and then print great again. This seems to be a constant now.
I dont understand how/why this could happen, as the whole z-axis is on a linear spiral shaft. Unless there is a gcode issue somewhere that I am not aware off. I am using CURA as my slicer and I feel that even if there was an isnturuction hidden somewhere at a certain height, it would possibly effect a single layer, and not 5mm worth of layers.
Any ideas?
I have tried:
Different filament
Pushing flow % to 105 and 110% respectively
Cleaned extruder gears and print head
Oiled z-axis shafts
What baffles me, is the weird delamination (or rather lack of lamination) at a certain height. I have not measured this height exactly, but from guestimating, it looks like roughly the same height on every print where the issue is visible (about 3/4 up in the attached image). My support structures are also VERY messy, whilst they were very precise and perfect previously.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/epy7e.jpg)
Thanks | [
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"text": "Write a few pieces of gcode to do this. Place it on an SD-card (I assume you have a reader) and select the file ... | 2017/02/27 | [
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3,661 | I am wondering - of course if the 3D printer's bed big enough - printing multiple copies of the same print could save me significant amount of time in a small production line, excluding minor wastage such as setup time, post-processing time, etc.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQ1Zt.png)
e.g. if my foo print takes 10 hours, printing 2x copies at the same time would take 2x times more, increasing linearly or it would be significantly less? | [
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"text": "The proportion of production improvement is dependent on the size of the items being printed, generally speaking. ... | 2017/02/27 | [
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3,668 | I'm starting to get familiar with 3D printers. I wish to know if printing details the size of 10-7 m (3.9\*10-6 in) is possible these days with metals or any other material.
If anyone has information or articles as leads, I would really appreciate it. | [
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"text": "Today, only SLA/DLP will give features of that size (if even these technologies do), and I am unaware of anyone using... | 2017/02/28 | [
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3,670 | I am doing a quad-copter now.
I am not sure what color is the best to use for outdoor durability, especially in sunlight.
They say PETg is the most durable material amongst cheap ones.
But what color to choose: white or transparent? Or it does not matter? | [
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"text": "Unless you plan to use your copter outside Earth atmosphere or expected lifetime is more than tenths of years, UV ... | 2017/02/28 | [
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3,683 | When I am printing objects that have a lot of surface area on the first layer parts of that layer will rise up causing there to be gaps in the first layer. Here are two pictures. The first one was printing with a raft and the second one was without a raft.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLnZA.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/x6vXw.jpg) I am printing on 3M Painters tape, extruder temperature at 200, bed temperature at 60. I am using Hatchbox PLA Filiment. | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "1. Too far from the surface for the first layer. Filament doesn't look flat enough\n2. Possible slight under-extr... | 2017/03/05 | [
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3,696 | I have been playing around with creating scripts to generate some custom G-code for a Malyan M180 and I am having trouble understand what commands to use to switch nozzles. Sometimes I can get the nozzles to switch and it doesn't recenter but sometimes it does.
I have been using:
```
G54
M108 T0; switch to left
```
and
```
G55
M108 T1; switch to right
```
Has anyone else looked into this and have any idea what commands or sequence of commands should be used to change nozzles? | [
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"text": "No, M108 does not do that. You are looking for **T#**, where # is the tool position you want:\n\n```\nT1 ; switch to to... | 2017/03/08 | [
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3,700 | In trying to understand 3D printers, I have watched some YouTube videos where the crafters make items with hinges. That in itself blows my mind. It is hard to grasp how something with moving parts can be printed. But specifically I am wondering if the concept can be extended to food printers to make, for example, a sugar or chocolate telescoping lollipop (sucker)? | [
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"text": "No, M108 does not do that. You are looking for **T#**, where # is the tool position you want:\n\n```\nT1 ; switch to to... | 2017/03/09 | [
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3,702 | I'm building an automatic warehouse system using three NEMA 17 stepper motor.
My problem is to move the motors with precision, since I do not have any kind of encoder on the motor and so I cannot know the position of the axes. I thought that the system could be similar to a 3D printer, since neither 3d printers have encoder on the motor.
Where can I find a sketch for Arduino of a 3D printer, to understand how they work? How do they move with such precision without any kind of sensor? | [
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"text": "[For now] most of the open source 3d printer firmware written for Arduino-based hardware. This means you can just ... | 2017/03/09 | [
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3,710 | I've heard that using hairspray is useful for keeping the 3D objects from peeling off of the bed, but every example I have seen where someone uses hairspray, they use it on a glass bed.
Is it okay to use it on a metal bed as well? | [
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"text": "Do you mean bare metal or metal with some film on top? You can apply hair spray to bare metal, but you will ... | 2017/03/10 | [
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3,711 | I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.
The closest I have found is the [pixelstone](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoqCrwr91bNH_hbPtBrprw) but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.
There is a similar house printer [fastbrick](http://fbr.com.au/) but it is also just a prototype.
There is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this ([brickify](https://all3dp.com/brickify-rapid-prototyping-lego/)), but these don't have machine assembly.
And there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. ([firepick](http://delta.firepick.org/))
So are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together? | [
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"text": "I've prototyped a design that used beads similar to these <http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.j... | 2017/03/11 | [
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3,713 | I recently bought a 3d printer and right now i am printing a normal cube just to try it out. However I was wondering, when it has the last part left of the printing where it needs to create the roof, how will the filament stay there and not just fall down as there is nothing underneath?
Will I need to check the "Support" function in the print-settings before hand or is there something else i need to do?
Thanks a lot for the help/tips! | [
{
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"text": "If you are printing a solid cube with infill, then the infill will support the \"roof\".\n\nIf you are print... | 2017/03/11 | [
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3,720 | I'm looking for a post processing method for increasing the functional strength of a 3d printed part originally made by FDM. I've tried printing my part with solid infill but the layer separation is still the primary failure point. I'm looking for a way to get something closer to a cast or injection molded part. Obviously less strength but there is a pretty big gap in material properties.
The only method I've thought of that might work is drilling a small hole, or series of holes in my part to inject an epoxy into the part. Haven't tried it.
I'm open to any possible ideas or advice if someone has tried something like this. Not sure if this is necessarily the best place but thought it's a good place to start. | [
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"text": "Layer separation will always be the primary failure point of FDM. So your best action would be to design part... | 2017/03/12 | [
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3,728 | Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.
I got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).
I set my extruder to 210 °C and bed to 50 °C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).
I figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out.
I bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes? | [
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"text": "[Using The Burn Test to Identify Plastic Materials](http://www.boedeker.com/burntest.htm) is one way. From the... | 2017/03/12 | [
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3,732 | I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to "split object into parts" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed? | [
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"text": "I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x. \n\nAs the developers say on the v2.1 release, \"Cur... | 2017/03/12 | [
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3,738 | I know this is still gray territory and it is asked so many times within the 3D printing and maker community but I'm curious about the limits of 3D models and were it touches on Free Use and infringement. I'm not trying to push the envelope, I just want to be clear on the matter.
Is it legal if a design is rendered in a CAD program of a copyrighted material for **no** purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, internalizing, re-licensing under GPL/CC, or any unauthorized use outlined by the owner of the original work? For instance, if someone is demonstrating the abilities of a particular CAD and makes a mock-up of Miwmey Peusi just to show the limits of said CAD and the STL/OBJ isn't released or distributed and a letter of intent is given along with the demonstration regarding the original work (in this case, Michum), is that infringement? In this example, no loss of revenue or sales will affect the original owner, no claims of ownership is implied or stated, and no physical model will be created.
While considering all of this, I figured that it wasn't very much different than if an artist sat down and drew a picture of Miwmey Peusi. As long as the picture isn't sold, distributed, or released, in my mind, that is the same thing as a 3D render.
To further the details of the 3D model, the render would be made from scratch and not imported, copied, or reverse engineered from any other work. Bottom line, it will be a likeness that is created but it will be as close to the real thing as possible to demonstrate capabilities of a particular program (such as organic shapes, stitching, grouping, layering, or any other facet and characterization of 3D modeling).
I already understand that it is recommended to err on the side of caution and steer clear of things like this but it is more of a curiosity than a request for legal advice regarding a specific case.
Can this be covered under Fair Use?
Since there is nothing to be made from creating the render, it isn't released or distributed to others, isn't re-licensed, and no ownership is implied/credit to the original owner is given, is this Free Use or copyright infringement? | [
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3,742 | I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me that? | [
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"text": "Some slicing programs will give this information. Here is the first comment at the end of the print, which gives volum... | 2017/03/14 | [
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3,750 | I am wanting to buy a 3D printer to add to my shop.
I am an engineer and enjoy making/building things so the kit idea sounds fun and economical.
I see Tronxy has two different styles for their larger printers:
* P802 (reprap frame) style
* X3 (metal frame) style.
As far as I can see, both printers have the same basic resolution, accuracy, and material specs.
1. What are the advantages/disadvantages/differences between the
P802 and X3?
2. How important is auto-leveling? | [
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3,755 | I am about to purchase a TronXY X3 or P802; but, my PC is running Windows 10.
The spec sheet for the printers does not list anything above Windows 7.
Is anyone using either of these printers with Windows 10? | [
{
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"text": "Since the printer supports using an SD card, you don't *need* to connect it directly to a PC. Serial over USB... | 2017/03/17 | [
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3,758 | Laboratory centrifuges have buckets that hold the sample tubes in inserts.
The buckets are the black things on the rotor in the upper left corner holding the bottles. Examples of inserts are shown below (the colorful containers with slots for tubes). These fit into the buckets and I'd like to print them since these are expensive.
Is it safe to 3d print these using a makerbot given the g-forces these rotor inserts will be subjected to (potentially 150g's under our settings), or will the inserts deform and unbalance the rotors under the stress?
Additionally, is the precision of the printing good enough that the inserts can be expected to be well-balanced (the correct weight, with a symetric design having even weight distribution)?
We have a basic makerbot that makes little plastic robots.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVFZg.png) | [
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"text": "It's difficult to determine if the buckets are fully enclosed, but I suspect that they are. The enclosure into whi... | 2017/03/17 | [
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3,771 | Is there a commercially available fume and nano particle extractor for a 3D printer, like the Ultimaker3 extended? I'm looking for a safe solution, to use at home, for around $800. | [
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"text": "To try to answer your question, I found these enclosures on [3DPrintClean](https://www.3dprintclean.com/store-1/), b... | 2017/03/19 | [
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3,782 | My printer just stopped working. It seems like it's working perfectly, but it gives me an error whenever I move the Z-Axis (Error: Printer set into dry run mode until restart) then, the bed temperature appears to be at 293ºC when it's actually at 95ºC.
I suspect that the bed wires short-circuited since they got stuck behind the bed when the printer was moving Y-Axis to home (the wires blocked the movement). Since then, the error appeared.
I suspect that the controller board could have been harmed by the supposed short-circuit, but despite the error, I can move perfectly any axis; I can heat the bed and the extruder; I can extrude filament; it is just the error which doesn't let me print.
**Printer:**
Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3
**Software:**
MatterHackers: MatterControl 1.7
**Update:** The bed temperature is stuck at ~95ºC, sometimes ~250ºC, even if I disconnect the sensor wires and restart the printer, so apparently, it's failing to read the bed temperature. | [
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3,786 | I'm having a similar issue to [this one](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1207/how-to-remove-a-pla-print-stack-to-a-buildtak-sheet): I have retrofitted my printer with a BuildTak sticker. I'm printing PLA at 60°C bed temperature - currently using a 0.3 mm nozzle, but I had similar issues with the 0.4mm nozzle before.
If I bring the nozzle close enough to the print surface to get a reasonable first layer, I need excessive force to remove the parts afterwards - so much force that I already have damaged the BuildTak in one or two places. If I lower the bed (the physical bed using the screws, not the temperature!) so that the parts come off easier, the first layer is very uneven and it takes 5-6 layers until the layers start to stack onto one another the way they are supposed to. What can I do to influence the adhesion of the printed parts to the BuildTak surface - especially to lower it in a controlled manner without changing the nozzle height? | [
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"text": "Try printing with the heated printbed off. Heat makes the pla stick more to buildtak"
},
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"answer_id": 5720,
... | 2017/03/24 | [
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3,788 | I've been 3D printing as a hobby for a couple of years now, and have always heard how 3D printing is great for prototyping, but once you get beyond 10 or 20 pieces it's just not cost competitive with other technologies. I just accepted this to be truth, and have even told some of the customers I've gotten through 3DHubs and other marketplaces the same thing.
Now I'm creating an item for resale and am 3D printing the case. As I'll need 40 - 50 cases at a time I thought I would shop around for other options. But I just received some quotes back on injection molding. The mold price (for half the case) was \$15k, plus \$10 per unit at a quantity of 50 and \$4 per unit at a quantity of 500. Even in the case of the latter, the cost of tooling plus production is \$34/piece. 3D printing the same part myself costs $7 in filament, and paying someone else to 3D print it cost \$28.
Keeping in mind that 3D printing allows me to make changes to the design on the fly and print the exact number I need without having to worry about volume discounts, I now wonder if I've just been repeating a common misconception. Is 3D printing really noncompetitive for medium (10-500 pieces) production runs? If so, what makes it noncompetitive, given the extremely high up-front cost of IM? | [
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3,793 | I have a makerbot, and am using their slicer program. The part I am printing has an extremely coarse thread, 5 threads per inch with a 2 mm thread height. The thread face is at a 30 degree angle (15 degrees of overhang)
I have printed external threads like this without issue and without support material before for various gardening tools (a flow straightener for example). I'm now trying to print an internal threaded part however the rest of the part needs to have support. I've played with the settings in the makerbot software but can't find a combination that will acomplish my goal.
I'm looking for an idea, a setting, or an alternate way of printing the threads without support, but still have supports for the other sections of the part that I know do need them.
Perhaps there is an alternate software that can do something like this, or is best practice to modify the part to have weak structural elements to support the extremely overhanging sections that I'll then break off afterwards and print the part with no supports? | [
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"text": "Consider to create an externally threaded part to mate with the internally threaded part, perhaps with a tenth of ... | 2017/03/26 | [
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3,795 | I replaced the controller board in my Monoprice Select Mini with an Arduino/Ramps setup and compiled an uploaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC8 to run it. I've got most everything calibrated and working with one exception.
I tell the printer to home for xyz and then level my bed with a piece of paper then start a print and the nozzle consistently drops too far down into the bed and nothing can extrude. If I adjust the bed and put 1-2mm gap between the nozzle and bed then it prints fine.
I can't find anything in Marlin to adjust for this and I'm kind of stumped. I'm printing the original cat gcode that came with the printer that should just work fine as it always has and shouldn't have anything that a slicer would put in there to screw things up.
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
This is the output of M503
```
Send: M503
Recv: echo:Steps per unit:
Recv: echo: M92 X93.00 Y93.00 Z1097.50 E99.00
Recv: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
Recv: echo: M203 X300.00 Y300.00 Z5.00 E25.00
Recv: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
Recv: echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z100 E10000
Recv: echo:Accelerations: P=printing, R=retract and T=travel
Recv: echo: M204 P3000.00 R3000.00 T3000.00
Recv: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
Recv: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Y20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
Recv: echo:Home offset (mm)
Recv: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
Recv: echo:Material heatup parameters:
Recv: echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F255
Recv: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0
Recv: echo:PID settings:
Recv: echo: M301 P26.15 I2.74 D62.35
Recv: echo: M304 P231.09 I45.21 D295.34
Recv: echo:Filament settings: Disabled
Recv: echo: M200 D3.00
Recv: echo: M200 D0
Recv: ok
```
I also wanted to test whether the nozzle is actually moving closer. I did a G28 and manually put a piece of paper's width gap between the nozzle and the bed at all points. Then I started a print with no filament but with the sheet between the nozzle and bed. When it got to temp it homed all the axis and moved the nozzle to the first position. I would expect the paper to maintain the same gap but it tightly presses into the paper. The first gcode move that includes the Z before extruding is :
```
G0 F3600 X42.228 Y46.985 Z0.3
```
Which you would expect would put even more space between the nozzle and bed for the first .3 layer of filament but it isn't.
I printed directly from the SD Card to hopefully rule out Octoprint running gcode before the print so I really think the culprit is Marlin at this point. | [
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3,804 | I spent the last days trying to make the best gears I could but they are not "smooth" nor good. I searched at thingverse with "gear" but I see no set of gears. I would like someone to point me a good set of gears (with 5, 10, 15... teeth for example) so I can use this STL file with Google Sketchup.
Do you guys know any good matching gears that I could print?
I will be using this gear in a fast spinning matching so it would be nice these gears to be well designed to support some fast moving.
Also, I think in my case I would like to use gears with this shape (the white gear). Any idea why is this gear design better than the usual? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mHxj.jpg) | [
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"text": "This type of gear is known as a \"herringbone\" gear. A traditional straight-cut gear is strong, but can cause mor... | 2017/03/29 | [
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3,814 | Lately I'm having some issues with white PLA.
It sticks nicely to the print bed, but the very last layer of the print comes out really ugly.
I'm not a native english speaker, I don't know what is the proper term to describe what I see, so I'm attaching two pictures instead:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4A8Gn.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/76KNF.jpg)
As you can see, the surface has wrinkles. If you touch it, it feels like a [jaggled surface](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ab7vc.jpg). What is causing this? I've never had this kind of issue before with the same PLA roll, what can be the issue?
I have a prusa-style printer, 45°C printbed, 225°C hotend, 10% hexagonal infill, 30mm/s print speed. The object stays on the surface without warping, I can tell for sure that it isn't detaching from the bed and coming up towards the extruder.
It happens only for infill, perimeters are just perfect.
What can be the issue here? | [
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3,823 | I am facing a problem with my 3D print. Whenever I am printing any object, the print from the top is shifting to the right hand side - it is symmetric at the bottom but not at the top.
Checkout the photo below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uocCD.jpg) | [
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"text": "The usual cause here is a loose belt on the X or Y drive, leading to hysteresis and a shift in the perceived ... | 2017/04/04 | [
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3,826 | I've never gotten a 3D printer, nor do I know very much about them, but I'm thinking of buying a delta 3D printer kit for around $450. When I looked online of some disadvantages of Delta printers I found that they typically don't have Bowden extruders. I'm wondering what are the advantages of a Bowden extruder and should I spend more money in a 3D printer just to get one. | [
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"text": "My FLSUN Kossel 3D Delta printer ($224) has a bowden extruder. It works really well too.\n\nThe main advantage... | 2017/04/04 | [
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3,838 | Why does the Ultimaker 3D Printer has a Heater + Heater transfer plate (aluminium) + Glass?
I wonder why a glass plate, and if is possible to remove the glass and print directly in the aluminium plate adjusting the heating.
[Link to the ultimaker](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-3).
Pictures:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBsTd.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uf2vc.jpg) | [
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"text": "Printing directly onto aluminum is something I've never seen before, likely due to the fact that PLA (and other material... | 2017/04/10 | [
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3,841 | I'm considering removing the driver motor from the extruder assembly, and placing it on a stationary mount point instead, and then using a flex-shaft type connector from the motor to the extruder assembly to actually drive the extruder. The motivation for this change is to reduce the overall weight of the extruder driver and hot end assembly, allowing for quicker movement of the carriage on it's associated axis(one of X,Y).
Would it be better to run a pair of drivers (one for each direction) to manage reversing the filament pressure or would it be better to use just one driver and reverse the motor as usual? | [
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3,842 | In a discussion about motors with a friend who used to work in the robotics industry, he told me that he despised stepper motor systems, as every stepper based system he had worked on required a bunch of hacky software fixes to make the system perform to the required level.
He said that servo motor based systems had their own foibles, but at least they could generally be tuned out and you always knew that if the encoder said you were in a given place then you would be (to within the constraints of the backlash compensation).
Because of this, I was wondering if there were any options for using brushless DC motors + encoders + drive electronics instead of steppers + drive electronics. | [
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3,853 | The backstory: I'm installing a pigeon net in my home. Because of the shape of the opening I'm installing the net in and the material on the sides it's difficult to anchor the net using the normal means but I can print clips that will hold the net in place.
The clips will be outside and will be exposed to the weather and direct sunlight, the weather here is relatively hot (up to 30C) with a lot of sun most of the year and rain in the winter.
I only have PLA, ABS and PETG available, anything else will take too long to arrive.
I don't care about the parts changing color and mostly I don't care about them deforming a little bit - only about breaking.
If the parts have to be replaced after a year I'm ok with it, less then that will be annoying, longer will be better.
So, under those conditions, which of the 3 materials is more durable? | [
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"text": "PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it's biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but w... | 2017/04/13 | [
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3,863 | The overall goal is to create a print of the liberty bell. No clapper is needed. The support beam is not needed. I am just looking to mimic the outside shape of the bell. After an application of Google-fu I found this image. It has been cleaned up and cropped a bit.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTg2W.png)
In OpenScad the surface function was applied to the png to generate a height model. I subtracted out a few cubes, and eventually got it down to a layer of about .1 height.
My Evil (pun intended) plan is to get it down to a 2d model. Then by shifting a copy of model from itself, and subtracting the two. That should leave just the curve. Then rotate\_extrude the curve to generate the actual bell at the desired thickness.
I see the problem coming. If the model is layered down to zero height it will vanish. Leaving me nothing to rotate.
So on to the question.
**Is there any tool or technique to turn the image into a 2d openscad object or failing that is there another way to approach the problem?**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0joh6.jpg)
The direction that fred pointed me at is viable. I didn't use the actual image shown here, but a manually generated one from OpenScad. As a proof of concept the technique works well. | [
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3,866 | I am doing laboratory experiments and need to print some components.
I am working with different aqueous (water) solutions containing sulphuric acid (H2SO4), hydrochloric acid (HCl), and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), separately and in combination. The pH of the solutions are in the range 0 to 7. Temperatures don't exceed 40° Celsius.
In another application we have aqueous solutions containing high concentrations of FeCl3, HCl and in some cases H2O2 at temperatures of up to 180° Celsius.
Which 3D printing filament materials can you recommend for these applications? | [
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3,872 | I have a reprap printer with 0.3mm nozzle. It prints quite well, I am really surprised with quality of all the surfaces and the general precision of the parts printed. BUT I HAVE a problem: when making (for example) a 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube with a 2.8mm diameter hole from top to bottom (to fit a screw) after I print it gets a size of 3mm diameter.
I know this is related to extrusion width but cant the slicer software (I am using s3d) know that it is using a specific extrusion width and compensate for that in order to get the diamter right?
OBS: this printer is supposed to get 0.05mm precision. | [
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"text": "It's a generally accepted fact that FDM/FFF printers will have [deviations when it comes to holes and perimeters]... | 2017/04/17 | [
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3,874 | What does the pink color in Slic3r preview mean? Yellow is my model, green is support, and pink is..?
If the pink color is some kind of warning, how do I fix it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2PIRU.jpg) | [
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"text": "Having had direct experience with Slic3r, I can offer up this information. Your model is composed of bottom layers... | 2017/04/17 | [
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3,877 | Whenever I try putting the filament through the nozzle it does not go through. I have searched everywhere online and have found nothing. | [
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"text": "My first step would be to cut the filament at a bit of an angle. This will help the filament enter the extruder co... | 2017/04/17 | [
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3,884 | I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.
I am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.
I am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface. I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be. It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.
Is there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry? I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax. It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.
I don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files. The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.
Thanks.
Edit: Per requests for additional information:
* I am not sure what is considered a "thin" wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).
* I would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.
* The clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.
* With my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.
Edit 2:
Based on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vJ0A.png)
The little nubbins in the back fit into the "neck" at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock. 220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work. | [
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3,886 | I am creating a 3D printed part which will act as an attachment between a plate (actually a strain gauge) with two M2.5 bolts and a 2kg load with a single M4 bolt. I wouldn't be happy with tapping a screw thread into the print itself so I want to try embedding the nuts into the print itself - so I'll pause the print at the right layer and then insert the nut and, hopefully, the print will resume.
I'm wondering is it worth also including washers? It's a major pain because, while a nut can be captive in a hex space, a washer is circular. So it needs to be glued down on insertion in case it rotates while the printer is printing on top of it.
For a 2kg load I don't believe the nut will attempt to pull through the part but there isn't a whole lot of support between the bore hole and the edge of an M2.5 nut though, only about 1mm.
Edit: I'll add an image of my initial design. The strain gauge is one of a set pulled out of a weighing scales (from Lidl, €5.99. You can buy each separately on the internet for 20 euro, so I saved 74 euro!). The gauge itself is mounted on the narrow "neck" of the gauge. The whole block will drop into a holder that grabs the outer edge of the gauge.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bdelf.png) | [
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3,887 | I had this idea for bulky parts for just printing the shell (PLA) then pouring in some kind of filler in to make up the bulk/strength.
Printing bulk .2mm at a time line by line is slow and subject to warping!
So I though precision print a shell and fill it with 'something' - has this been done by anyone? What is a good something to use?
Yours hopefully! | [
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"text": "Or you could use a second head to do low-density infill with very thick layers, like a 1.5mm nozzle and 1.2mm layers."... | 2017/04/19 | [
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3,889 | So when my Prusa I3 is heating up, a small bit of filament is coming out of the nozzle, forming a small string at.
When the printing starts, this results in a small plastic ball on the bed, impacting the overall printing process.
How can I avoid this? | [
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"text": "On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot. ... | 2017/04/19 | [
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3,902 | I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8Cl.png "Detailed 3D form#1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qV4Np.png "Detailed 3D form#2")
I want to keep all the form's details.
If it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing? | [
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"text": "Best option for something like this would be to use an SLA printer. They can do sharper image detail compared to FDM... | 2017/04/21 | [
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3,904 | What are the "magic numbers" people refer to regarding print resolution on the Monoprice Select Mini? | [
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"text": "The \"magic numbers\" are optimal values that work particularly well for the layer height. Rochaav U'Grien der... | 2017/04/21 | [
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3,909 | I've done *some* research on this matter however I cannot find any clear answers.
How does a SolidWorks CAD file get 'converted' into a file format suitable for 3D printing, in detail? | [
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"text": "When you convert it to, let's say, a .stl (3d object file) file, I believe it converts the geometry of the par... | 2017/04/23 | [
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3,910 | I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail. Any ideas on how I can fix it?
I'm using Slic3r.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD4AX.jpg "Photograph of first printed layer") | [
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3,922 | For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, [poppy-project.org](https://www.poppy-project.org/fr/).
We are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.
It prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.
Have you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?
Thanks for the replies | [
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3,924 | I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print.
I will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press "`Print File`" and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows "`Preheat PLA`". The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle.
Any help would be appreciated. | [
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"text": "I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two ... | 2017/04/25 | [
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3,925 | I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK.
There is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output. | [
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"text": "you can find pin.h in marlin directory and in pin.h file change # define pinout of z motor and extruder motor"
},
... | 2017/04/26 | [
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3,955 | I have a 3D printed object that I'd like to print on. Adhesive stickers are an option, but as the surface is rounded it's difficult to get a good film to stick well.
Is there any system to print on a 3D object (e.g. ink jet). I need at least 300dpi. Black in the first instance, but color would be nice for future projects. | [
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3,967 | I'm struggling with my new printer, and I just want to make sure that I have the basic configured correctly.
What motherboard ID in [`configuration.h`](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h) is appropriate for MKS BASE V1.5 in Marlin Firmware? | [
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3,968 | ### TL;DR
Is ABS a better material to use for structural parts of a 3D printer, as opposed to PLA?
---
I have been looking at various suppliers of printed parts for a [Wilson II](http://reprap.org/wiki/Wilson_TS#Wilson_II), on eBay.
[One supplier](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252871697915) supplies all of the parts printed in ABS, whereas [another supplier](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182099145671) provides the structural parts, which form part of the frame, in PLA, and the remaining (non-structural) parts in ABS. The second supplier states the following:
>
> This kit is printed in two materials, the structural parts are printed on high-quality PLA to provide the necessary rigidity, and the others in premium ABS.
>
>
>
MJRice, who developed the printer, also supplies [the printed parts](https://www.tindie.com/products/mjrice/reprap-wilson-ii-plastic-parts-kit/), which are made of PLA.
Is PLA really a better choice for structural components? A quick google lead me to [ABS or PLA: Which 3D printing filament should you use?](http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/abs-vs-pla-3d-printing-materials-comparison/)
>
> **ABS is going to give your projects better structural integrity and will be more suited to mechanical use** given the material can better withstand the elements, but it will also require specific types of printers and printing surfaces. On the flip side, PLA will give you more precise prints and better aesthetic quality, as well as more flexibility with printing conditions if you can do without the **strength and resilience of ABS**.
>
>
>
Another link, [What's stronger? PLA or ABS?](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/JiPjCMt0-Bc), also implies that ABS is stronger than PLA:
>
> The strongest ABS is stronger than the strongest PLA
>
>
>
and
>
> ABS is much less brittle than PLA
>
>
>
although warpage could be an issue...
>
> I choose ABS for it's strength over PLA. *I would love to avoid the warpage/shrinkage problems of ABS*.
>
>
>
Heat seems to affect PLA more than ABS (obviously, due to the lower melting point),
>
> FWIW, I know a guy who had a reprap using PLA-printed parts. He was taking his machine around to do demos and he left it in the car mid-day once. It melted the parts enough that prints were coming out very poorly even after his best effort at recalibrating the machine.
>
>
>
and as I am in Thailand, my room gets up to 50°C some days (it is unbearable), I wonder if that would be cause for concern?
So, from the above nuggets of information, wouldn't ABS be a better choice? I am surely missing something, as both the second supplier, *and* MJRice, use PLA. | [
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3,972 | After I updated the firmware on my Prusa i3, the Bed won't switch off anymore. It worked perfectly before the update, but now, the moment I power up my printer, the LED on the bed turns on and it starts heating up. The manual control in Repetier Host doesn't turn if off or on and I even tried g-codes `M140 S0` as well as `M0`, but it does not switch it off.
**Edit:**
I have an Arduino Mega2560 with a RAMPS shield. The Marlin firmware came pre-configured from the store I bought the kit from. | [
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"text": "50°C is hot for you. PLA's glass transition temperature is 65°C. A car in the mid-day sun can get very hot indeed.... | 2017/05/01 | [
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3,973 | For the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus I have to upload data to the 3D printer from a software called Asquine and then close it. Then I open Pronterface and put in the right port and baud rate that is in the Asquine files and then click "connect". Afterwards it says
```
connecting...
```
and that is all it does and doesn't fully connect to the printer. I've tried changing the baud rate and port in Pronterface, Asquine and the bit rate in the Device Manager but nothing works.
Any suggestions on how to fix this? | [
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3,994 | I have recently purchased an Anet A8 but have been wondering why the prints look squished and have tiny balls on them.
I am using 1.75 mm cheap PLA bought from eBay and have also had problems of filament oozing out of the print block.
][1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bEPO.jpg "Photos of squished prints") | [
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"text": "It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have some... | 2017/05/04 | [
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4,000 | I´m currently working on a custom delta printer running Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. To control it I´m using the Repetier Host software with the onboard Cura software to slice my objects. The printing works fine but it takes the nozzle nearly 5 minutes to move from the homing position at 250 mm to the starting position of the print near z=0.
I already tried to increase the travel speed but nothing changed. Can you guys please tell me how to increase the speed of my nozzle to move down to my starting point of the print? | [
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4,012 | TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?
---
A case in point, from [RepRapWiki - Kossel](http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel), there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:
>
> Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand
> luggage size limit (see transportation):
>
>
> * Frame height: 550 mm.
> * Footprint: triangle, 270 mm width, 250 mm across (210 mm 15 x 15 mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).
>
>
>
However, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).
Now, as per my previous question, [For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3965/for-a-larger-build-volume-what-lengths-of-2020-aluminium-do-i-need), is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: *Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware*, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.
I have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.
Looking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Muvi and XL:
* 600/240 mm versus 180 mm
* 750/360 mm versus 300 mm
I really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel.
Unless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60 mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150 mm?
By extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000 mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940 mm?
Any ideas? | [
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4,014 | I'm using Marlin 1.1.0RC8 to control an MPCNC, using a RAMPS1.4. We've just added a touch-plate to do Z-probing, which works nicely for a single probe (I just want calibrated height for variant bit-lengths, not bed-leveling, but I think it amounts to the same thing). I've set it up in Marlin as *FIX\_MOUNTED\_PROBE*, which seems closest.
I can make it do a `G38.2 Z-50`, `G92 Z12.6` (which sets Z to the height of the touch-plate, 12.6mm), which is ok to be going on with, but it seems I'm having to hard-code the Z offset, which I'm sure should really be set by eg `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` or `M851`.
My feeling was that I should be able to invoke a G-code `G30`, and it would do a nice fast-slow double tap, do the equivalent of a `G92 Z+zzz` to set that height and then withdraw to a safe height. And after a bit of config, it does exactly that...
... except it doesn't do anything with the height that it measured! Seems odd. The `G30` code seems to be an elaborate way to move the head up by the clearance amount, via a touch-plate (with the added excitement of being able to crash the bed if anything goes wrong)! What's the point?
Have I misunderstood what `G30` is meant to do? I've read [the docs here](http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G030.html), and traced through `Marlin_main.cpp` and there really is no "outcome". Unless I've missed something? | [
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4,018 | I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.
I'm trying to print a calibration cube.
The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C.
As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdPaw.jpg)
I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle.
How could I resolve this? Any advice? | [
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4,022 | I'm using `M80` and `M81` G-codes to power on/off power supply.
Is there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply? | [
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4,026 | I have had many problems with my heat shrink for the thermostat on my Anet A8 melting from the heat block.
Is there a way I can insulate my wires from heat but still have enough room to put the thermistor into the block? | [
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"text": "You could use Kapton tape to tape the thermistor. It is usually the best option for sticking something onto the hotend... | 2017/05/09 | [
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4,031 | By "better" I mean "more precise"...
With respect to a RepRap P3Steel or Wilson II, I am getting some 330 mm T8 leadscrews for the Z-axis movement.
There seems to be a choice between a *lead* of 1, 2 or 8 mm - the *pitch* is 1 mm in the first case and 2 mm in the last two cases1. However, there is precious little information about the advantages and disadvantages of each lead size in [RepRapWiki - Threaded Rod - Leadscrew](http://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod#Leadscrew).
It seems to me that using a leadscrew with a 1 or 2 mm lead could result in a more precise Z-axis movement, as one rotation of the stepper results in a smaller increment in height. Therefore the layer thicknesses could be smaller.
However, is the minimum layer thickness not, also, dictated by the thickness of the filament, horizontal speed of the print head, nozzle size, etc.? Thus, at some point there would be no need for a super fine vertical resolution from the leadscrew, as it may be constrained by other limiting factors.
Of course, conversely, the use of a 2 mm lead would mean that the stepper would need to "work" four times as hard, than when using 8 mm, in order to raise the print head the same distance, as well as making the movement, during a "home", take four times as long (or, if you will, four times slower). In the case of a 1 mm lead that would become eight times...
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### TL;DR
Is it worth getting a leadscrew with a 2 mm lead, or is 8 mm sufficient?
By extension, would a 1 mm lead be even better, or just overkill?
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### Footnote
1 Nomenclature:
* **Pitch** is the distance between the adjacent threads;
* **Lead** is the distance that a nut will turn with one rotation, and;
* **Start** is how many starting (or thread entry) points at either end.
So, for a leadscrew, with a *pitch* of 2 mm, if there is only one *start* to the screw then the lead is the same as the pitch. However, if there are four *starts* to the screw, then the lead will be 8 mm. If there are two *starts* to the screw, then the lead will be 4 mm. And so on.
For more information, see [Wikipedia - Lead, pitch and starts](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Lead.2C_pitch.2C_and_starts). | [
{
"answer_id": 4034,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
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"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "Based on what I've learned over 8 months of printing:\n\nWhat matters the most is getting a very accurate zero... | 2017/05/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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