qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
4,032 | When you have Auto Mesh Bed Leveling enabled on your printer, it's not possible to continue a failed print, is it? | [
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"text": "Continuing a failed print has nothing to do with automatic bed leveling. It has everything to do with knowing which li... | 2017/05/10 | [
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4,042 | I work in a biological laboratory where we have been using the FABtotum personal fabricator for several months now. The machine is good, however not flawless, and has set us back from doing experiments.
I have overcome many common 3D printing issues, which I find necessary to do when becoming proficient in this technique. However the printer has also had its own personal mechanical and software issues.
Our lab is seeking a printer that is more reliable, can produce parts relatively quick, good resolution, and it is nice if it has multiple modes (i.e FDM, SLA, and even 3D scanning is nice). This is what we figured we were getting with the FABtotum, but as I mentioned it has produced setbacks.
Now I would love to tinker with the printer and modify it to my needs, but unfortunately our lab is strapped for time, however we have funding for a higher quality printer if there is one.
Can you anyone recommend a printer fitting these needs in these budget categories?:
* 3000 USD
* 5000 USD
* 8000 USD or more
I know price doesn't equate quality, but I am saying that we are willing to pay more if that is where the quality lies.
For example, I have come across the Form 2, Ultimaker, and BCN3D sigma printers which seem quite nice. Any opinions are very appreciated. | [
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"answer_id": 4055,
"author": "Brad",
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"text": "I have only tried 2 different printers. I started with an Up plus printer and it was good to get started. After a few ... | 2017/05/11 | [
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4,044 | There are all sorts of stories of what to put on your printer bed to make your part not come loose when it is printing but can be removed after it is done without requiring a hammer and chisel.
Is there anything out there that shows an analytical comparison?
My biggest interest is PLA on a heated glass base. | [
{
"answer_id": 4045,
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"text": "I use a product called [3DLAC](http://www.3dlac.com/index.php/en/) but I suppose it's regular hairspray. Makes... | 2017/05/11 | [
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4,049 | I recently got a 3D printer and have been experimenting with it a lot, resulting in a lot of failed prints (as well as successes, fortunately).
I'd like to, if possible, find a way to reuse the material from these failed prints. I am thinking about two methods:
1. The obvious thing to do with the material is to chuck it in an old toaster oven and reuse it for injection molding. Is this something that is reasonably easy to do? If so, what temperature would be reasonable to use? What materials would be good to use for the mold? (off the top of my head, silicone or printed ABS with some kind of sealant seem the most promising)
2. Are there other ways to easily reuse the material? I've noticed that when PLA is heated to somewhere around 50-60 degrees C (120-150 F) it becomes somewhat soft and malleable. Does anyone have experience molding hot PLA?
EDIT:
To be clear, I'm specifically asking about ways to reuse scrap PLA material, not just leftover filament, and not ways to turn it back into filament or to just recycle it. I'm particularly interested in the viability of the two methods I suggested, and if anyone has experience (positive or negative) with either I'd like to hear about it. | [
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"text": "Here is a great article on the subject, [How to make your own filament by recycling old 3D prints | Part 1](ht... | 2017/05/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4049",
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4,066 | I know that the actual printing time is longer than the time estimated by Cura, due to acceleration and jerk factor.
However, I have printed a small pyramid for which Cura estimates 4.0 minutes, while the measured printing time is 2 minutes and 40 seconds.
What reasons could produce this difference?
For clarity, I'm using a Delta Wasp 20 40 equipped with a clay extruder for which parameters such as E-step (for E axis) are unpredictable since I have no filament. | [
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"text": "As you note, the estimates are usually optimistic because they're calculated without knowing the printer's actual... | 2017/05/15 | [
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4,071 | I have a solid of revolution defined by two equations, and I want to generate a STL file for printing from the [difference of the two equations](https://www.desmos.com/calculator/eh18uwasw9), revolved around x=0. I can get a good visualization when I [query this on Wolfram Alpha](https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=rotate%20the%20region%20between%20x%3Dsqrt(129%2B12y-y%5E2)-15.858%20and%20x%3Dsqrt(129%2B12y-y%5E2)-16.358%20around%20x%3D0%20from%20y%3D0%20to%20y%3D4), but I cannot figure out how to download an STL of this. I know there is a way to do this via Wolfram's Development Program but I'm not sure how or if that is the best way to do this. Solutions do not have to involve WA. | [
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"text": "As you note, the estimates are usually optimistic because they're calculated without knowing the printer's actual... | 2017/05/16 | [
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4,076 | I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.
Right now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.
Problem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes? | [
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"text": "Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.\n\n... | 2017/05/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4076",
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4,084 | 3D printing should be relatively safe, however, the inherent nature of 3D printers, with all of the heated parts, constitutes a fire risk. A well designed 3D printer should be designed to be as safe as possible, especially one used in the home... Yes, the recommendation is, when printing, to watch the 3D printer at all times and never leave a print unattended. However, with some print times lasting hours and days, this is not always feasible, nor practical. So, some inbuilt safety features should be included, to at least mitigate the risk of fire, to some extent.
* Is the use of thermal fuses1,2 a good idea3?
* Would you use more than one?
* Where should one place a thermal fuse? Next to a particular component, or *free standing*, in the air, to get an average, rather than *highly localised* temperature?
* Against which components should a thermal fuse be placed? There are a number of places to choose from, such as next to:
+ The hotend?
+ The heated bed?
+ The extruder?
+ Each of the stepper motors?
+ The power supply?
+ The RAMPS stepper motor drivers?
* Of lesser import, which type should one use4, radial or axial?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDeIh.jpg)
Has anyone added thermal fuses to their 3D printers? Or has anyone examined where the thermal fuses are placed in commercial 3D printer designs, if used at all?
---
### Background
I have recently found myself having to repair rice cookers and fans in Thailand. In those, it is very often the thermal fuse (axial thermal fuses for the rice cookers and the square "radial" types for fans) that requires replacing, as they have *blown* before the device got hot enough to start a fire. This got me thinking about their use in a 3D printer.
---
### Footnotes
1 We are *not* talking about the standard, replaceable, thermo-fuse,or [fuse](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(electrical)), which blow upon a current surge, short-circuit, etc. These are [thermal fuses](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_cutoff#Thermal_fuse) that contain metal connector within them that melts (permanently) at a specific temperature (typically ~135°C), thereby breaking the circuit.
2 Nor am I referring to [resettable fuses](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse) (AKA PPTC, multifuse, polyfuse or polyswitch)
3 Would a thermal fuse be preferable to thermal cut offs, in the case of fire?
4 The thermal fuses used in rice cookers are the *axial* type, and in the motors of fans are the *radial* type. | [
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"text": "Yes, measures which decrease the chance of a fire are a good idea.\n\nIn a DIY project, such a fuse is indeed a good i... | 2017/05/17 | [
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4,092 | I am interested in doing development on Cura. Initially I want to start with the UI rather than the Engine. I have found the [repository](https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura) and have cloned it to my PC. I have also looked over the [Wiki](https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki) and searched the web. For such a popular open-source product, I was surprised I couldn't find a build guide.
Can someone direct me on how to get started. I have a LOT of experience in Software Development (more years and languages than I want to admit to); but, I have never used Python. Consider that in your instructions. | [
{
"answer_id": 4097,
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"text": "As you are an experienced developer, these links should help:\n\nThis is a related question, but for Ubuntu [Ho... | 2017/05/18 | [
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4,103 | I have had an Anet A8 printer for about two months now and still have not gotten it to print good prints.
At first, it would only print completely solid parts and every time I would try infill from 10-90% the first layer would not stick or it would print really filmy like. As of now, it won't print the first layers for anything well but once it gets up about 10-ish layers it prints perfectly. I have tried a lot of stuff but it seems to be making it worse.
The pictures show my recent attempt at these settings below (Cura's default for normal quality), the print is supposed to be a 10 mm square. I have gone back to the default settings because nothing else was working.
* Using blue painter's tape
* Layer Height 0.1 mm
* In. Layer Height 0.3 mm
* WallThicken 0.8 mm
* Top/Bottom Thick 0.8 mm
* Infill Density 20%
* Grid Pattern
* Print Temp 210°C
* Bed Temp 65°C
* Dia 1.75 mm
* Flow 100%
* Bcit (raft is a little better)
Any suggestions?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQMNN.jpg "Photo of 3D print, showing top layer with two bubble effects")
In the top picture you can also how the top layer has two bubble effects.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0ZT3.jpg "3D Print with brim") | [
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"answer_id": 4104,
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"text": "Try lowering your Z height a bit more for the first layer if you find yourself having bed adhesion problems. Wh... | 2017/05/19 | [
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4,117 | Acetone is banned in my country, and I cannot get it.
What substitute could I use? | [
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"text": "The answer really depends on what you are using it for. Is it for dissolving ABS? A [quick google search](https:... | 2017/05/20 | [
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4,120 | Sometimes supports are very difficult to remove (physically) when I print with ABS. The image below, from [Thingiverse - MOF-5 unit cell](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1613957), is after significant effort to remove the yellow ABS supports from a black ABS model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Ze3e.png)
I've learned about polyvinylalcohol (PVA) as a 3D-printing filament which is soluble in water. It seems like a great option for dual-extruder printers, where you can print the model with ABS or PLA and the supports with PVA, then throw the whole thing in water and let the supports dissolve.
I've considered other options since PVA is ~4x more expensive than ABS.
Doing a PLA print with ABS supports, followed by dissolution of ABS with acetone, is my best idea currently.
Has anyone found success with another option? | [
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"answer_id": 4126,
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"text": "I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sit... | 2017/05/21 | [
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4,129 | I want to print multiple objects in a single G-code file on my Maker Select Plus 3D Printer.
On the Cura "Machine>Machine Settings..." menu, what are the correct settings for "Printer head size" in the upper right quadrant?
My best guess is below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJkip.png)
Note 1: I'm particularly concerned that I got the min and max directions correct. For instance, I just swapped my Y min and Y max values because when I tried them the other way, the print head impacted the first object when printing the second.
Note 1.5: I added 10 mm to my settings because I was concerned that Cura wasn't accounting for the width of the raft that I usually use when I print.
Note 2: From what I've read online before posting this question, this printer may be physically the same as the WanHao Duplicator i3. | [
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"text": "### TL;DR\n\nThe settings that you seem to need can be found here: [Print One At a time settings? CURA](https:/... | 2017/05/23 | [
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4,133 | I am having trouble printing a hollow object using Slic3r. On flat slopes on top, there are gaps that I cannot get fixed. The perimeters of successive layers just don't cover each other.
Cura however adds filament to cover the gaps.
The bottom left bunny is sliced with Slic3r 1.2.9.99.
The top right bunny is sliced with Cura 2.5. Take a closer look at the forehead and the back of the bottom left bunny.
I have "extra perimeters if needed" turned on. But turning it off makes no difference. What am I missing?
So far only adding infill and increase the solid top layer count helps to get a closed surface. But then everything gets stiffer. The bunnies are printed with nylon so they are a bit squishy.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTkjA.jpg)
The printer settings in both Cura and Slic3r are:
* 0.4 mm nozzel;
* 0.2 mm layer height;
* No infill;
* 2 perimeter walls, and;
* 3 solid top/bottom layers. | [
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"text": "What infill are you using? How flexible do you need the object to be?\n\nI suggest two or three top and bottom layers,... | 2017/05/24 | [
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4,144 | I've got the following PLA filament that is not feeding correctly into our Ultimaker 2+
It starts to feed and then all of the sudden, the wire 'eats' (read *breaks, but not entirely*) the plastic filament as you can see on the picture below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnQy7.jpg)
Any hints are more than welcomed. | [
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"text": "The photograph and your description indicate that the drive gear is eating the filament because the filament has st... | 2017/05/27 | [
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4,154 | I'm a new one for this community.
This also not directly related with 3D printing.
I searched about this and I couldn't find good answer.
One of my friends told me CNC machining centers (Milling) mostly use servo motors and CNC laser cutter and plasma cutters use stepper motors mostly.
Position controlling is more accurate in servo motors than steppers.
I think position controlling is more important in laser and plasma cutters than CNC machining centers, but laser and plasma cutters use stepper motors.
Why do laser and plasma cutters use steppers without using servo motors?
**P.S.**
This question has more area than 3D printing and CNC routing.And also, This question asked for more reason for why use steppers in laser cutters,plasma cutters and CNC router.SO, this is not a duplicate of [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3842/reprap-variants-with-servo-motors-rather-than-stepper-motors) one. | [
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"text": "Servos do have several advantages; but, they are more expensive and more difficult to control.\n\nGenerally, a ... | 2017/05/29 | [
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4,158 | I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3.
When I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z.
Any suggestions? | [
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"text": "It could be a hardware fault. \n\nFirst check, and compare, the control board connections to the motors of the ... | 2017/05/30 | [
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4,164 | I can't seem to understand the margins that Cura uses or how to fix them for my machine. Look at this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5oD0d.png)
I can't seem to tweak the stuff under machine settings to anything that does this better:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEd5k.png)
Maybe a bit of dup of [Cura not allowing full print area to used](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/645/cura-not-allowing-full-print-area-to-used), but I think my case is a lot worse and can't be explained by skirts. | [
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"text": "That looks like you've got the \"brim\" set to a very wide value. I know you said it's not explained by skirt... | 2017/05/30 | [
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4,165 | I have a wooden first generation Replicator with dual extruders and I'm trying to get an X, Y, Z position from the printer to the computer in real time. Is that even possible?
The firmware used by the replicator is version 5.5 I believe, and I've been doing tests with ReplicatorG but I'm not married to that software.
Please let me know if you need any extra info before being able to comment on this... | [
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"text": "That looks like you've got the \"brim\" set to a very wide value. I know you said it's not explained by skirt... | 2017/05/30 | [
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4,166 | Around 30% into a large print I had to cancel as the layers of the print were not full layers and looked very stringy. Here's a couple pictures of what it looked like.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/krwhC.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/L0Nl7.jpg)
I have a feeling that it may be because of my retraction settings either being too high or too fast as this section it was printing had to use a lot of retraction. My retraction settings are 40mm/s for 4.5mm. I was printing at a pretty slow speed (around 55mm/s), and I'm sure confused on why it's not extruding properly at certain times. If anyone has any idea on what is happening and how to fix it it will be gladly appreciated!
I have an Anycubic Delta linear printer with a Bowden extruder, I use white 1.75 mm PLA at 200C, .4mm nozzle | [
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"text": "It appears that at a certain point, you're running into issues with the extrusion being a bit too viscous / m... | 2017/05/31 | [
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4,173 | ### TL;DR
I need a complete list of fasteners (bolts, nuts and washers) for the *Sintron Kossel*.
---
Has anyone bought this kit, and knows the answer, or knows where this is documented?
A complete list would be great, but in particular, I need the dimensions (M2.5/3/4/5? and length) and quantity of the bolts (and nuts) which:
* fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches to the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders, and;
* fasten the PCB mounted mechanical switches and the PLA rectangular end stop spacers/holders to the extruded 2020 aluminium.
I have:
* Searched the web, but to no avail;
* Read the [product page](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sintron-3D-Printer-Kossel-Mini-Full-Set-w-Auto-level-for-RepRap-Rostock-Delta-/181845082062), which states only "screws and nuts provided";
* Contacted [Sintron](http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/sintron_tech_usa), but not had an answer;
* Obtained the [Sintron build manual](https://www.dropbox.com/s/iifhhmistuwfja1/Kossel%20mini%20instrution%20by%20sintron%20technology_v2.pdf?dl=0) but there is no list contained therein, nor contains details about the fasteners relating to the endstops, and;
* Obtained the [Blomker manual](http://www.robotdigg.com/upload/pdf/2a823cc8a8dcff9da99cce92710cc745.pdf), from which the Sintron manual is copied, but that also has no list (as well as not being relevant with respect to the endstops).
**Note that I am only interested in the fasteners *specifically for the Sintron Kossel* and not the Kossel in general.** The Sintron uses the PCB mounted mechanical switches (with four holes), and not the simple barebones mechanical switches (with two holes), and uses 2020 aluminium1, not 1515 OpenBeam:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lr1BU.png)
Why? Because I purchased only the 3D printed parts from Sintron, and I am sourcing the rest of the parts cheaply, either locally or from Chinese suppliers on eBay.
---
1 In my particular case, there is an additional complication. The profile of the non-standard/non-"European" 2020 extrusion that I am using, does *not* take T-Nuts, only M5 hexagonal nuts (it is unbelievably difficult to find the standard 2020 extrusion in Bangkok). Combine that with the fact that the Sintron kit uses only M3 nuts and *not* M5 (I only discovered this *after* purchasing the printed parts kit (see the email from Sintron, in my answer below) - not through lack of research, but because there *is* no available list of fasteners), then I have the problem of finding a nut to use (see [Fat hexagonal M3 nuts, with outer diameter greater than 6 mm](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/15628/fat-hexagonal-m3-nuts-with-outer-diameter-greater-than-6-mm)).
Here is a photo
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UgSHu.jpg) | [
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"text": "I found two lists for the Kossel mini (the documents you referenced are for a mini, so that is what I am assum... | 2017/05/31 | [
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4,177 | I have a Tevo Tarantula with a MKS Base 1.5 board and dual extruders. I am running Marlin RC8 Tevo Community build for the dual extruder, large bed and SN04 sensor.
All temperature sensors work and give accurate reading but `E1` when activated runs at 100% until the overtemps kicks in and shuts down the system. Like I said, it reads proper temperatures through the thermistor it just won’t stop at the set temperature. I checked the MOSFET and there is no obvious scorching or bad solder joints on the MKS board. This leads me to believe it is a mix-up in firmware but, being a bit of a newbie on this, I am still getting familiar with G-code and Marlin.
I have confirmed the correct board is being referenced in firmware from `boards.h` but looking at `configuration.h` I just get confused. What I am thinking is somehow/somewhere `E1` might be referenced as a fan that is just off or on. Anybody have ideas? | [
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"text": "I am not sure what the hardware config is for the **Tevo Tarantula**\n\nMake sure your `configuration.h` file ... | 2017/06/01 | [
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4,180 | I've always had trouble getting prints to stick directly on my bed, but had great reliability when use rafts. This didn't present a problem when I was using PLA, but I recently got a roll of PETG and it is very hard to remove rafts, so I am once again trying to figure out whats wrong.
I am printing the same file (currently a simple square for testing) with the same settings, except I am turning rafts on/off. When rafts are on, my print sticks perfectly. When rafts are off, my print doesn't stick at all - not even the skirt (which sticks fine on the raft print). With rafts on, I can watch my printer lay down a nice line for the skirt / first layer. With rafts off, I watched plastic ooze out of the nozzle and ride along with the print head, not sticking to the plate at all.
I have a stock Monoprice Maker Select v2 with the PEI surface it shipped with. I haven't tried any bed additions/changes to get better adhesion, since I know rafts stick fine with what I have. I figure there must be some settings I can change to make my first layer stick too. I am using Simplify3D & have tried a few basic tweaks, but I am largely stabbing in the dark.
What are the specific characteristics of a first layer raft, in comparison to a first layer of my print, that might make it stick better? | [
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"text": "You could experiment with the 'cleaning' part of the startup gcode shown [here](http://reprap.org/wiki/Start... | 2017/06/03 | [
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4,185 | I have this wing design that I want to print:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EF87K.png)
You can notice that its walls have a thickness, which is 1.0 mm.
I want to print it so that the perimeters are inside that thickness.
Here is the wing sliced with 1 perimeter and 0% infill:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MvFDx.png)
You can notice a gap between the perimeters. That gap is what I want filled and not the perimeters in the image. With 0 perimeters and 100% infill I got this zig-zagged line:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/U048S.png)
I want the gap to be filled; but, I don't want it to be zig-zagged like in the image. I want it to be smooth like the perimeters in the other image.
Basically I want a smooth infill that goes around the curves just like the perimeters. The reason why I don't want to print both the perimeters and the infill is because I want to save as much weight a possible as this is a wing of a model plane that must fly, so the lighter it is the more efficient it will be.
Any ideas how I can slice this?
The images are screenshots in Slic3r, but I can use Cura as well.
This is just a test slice. The wing model is not finished yet. | [
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4,207 | I've noticed that after my Anet A8 completes a print, the right hand Z mount ends up 1-2 mm lower than the left, even though I make sure both the left and right hand Z mounts of the X-axis are at the same height before switching on the printer.
Does anyone know what the cause of this might be?
I'm guessing something is causing the right hand Z to skip steps. I can't see or hear any obvious mechanical issues. I checked all guide and threaded rods were straight before assembly.
Could it be a faulty stepper or control electronics? | [
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"text": "Try winding the Z axis all the up and down a few times using the front panel controls. Does it still go out of alignmen... | 2017/06/09 | [
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4,209 | ### TL;DR
Is it possible to build a hotend, using separate parts, sourced on eBay, from China, and still achieve a high quality print?
---
In my opinion, the E3D V6 hotend is rather expensive, at $/£70, especially to those building to a tight budget. Now, obviously/presumably, there is some quite rigorous QA and testing of the build, and they have to pay for their research costs and initial machining set ups and this is reflected in the high cost. Also, the expression, *you get what you pay for*, springs to mind.
However, I wondered if I sourced the individual parts from China, for a dollar apiece, that is to say the:
* Throat (with Teflon lining)
* Heating block
* Heatsink
* Nozzle
* Pneumatic connector (PC4-05/PC4-M06)
* Heater
* Thermistor
could I too, end up with a hotend, that performs as well as, or even out performs, an E3D hotend, or am I living in cloud cuckoo land?
After all, let's not forget that most, if not, all of the parts used in a E3D hotend probably come from China anyway, these days, as most production facilites have moved from the US/EU to the cheaper manufacturing bases and machining shops, in SE Asia.
I have read *so many times* that people were experiencing extrusion problems, shoddy prints, etc, from their cheap printer, until they finally shelled out the cash and upgraded to a genuine E3D hotend. After that the prints were much improved. I have read this *countless* times, in blogs, threads, etc., so I presume that it is not possible.
I realise that if the parts are not finished correctly, and end up with burring on the inside of the throat, nozzle, etc., then the filament will not extrude correctly. See [tbm0115's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3985/how-long-is-an-extruders-nozzles-life/3988#3988) to [How long is an extruder's/nozzle's life?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3985/how-long-is-an-extruders-nozzles-life/) However, assuming that the parts that I receive are machined, and finished, correctly then there should not be a problem, right?
Has anyone actually done this? Is tinkering with hotends a done thing? Does anyone have any good pointers and/or tips?
NOTE: This question is not really after opinionated answers, in order to stay within SE rules - although opinions are always welcome - but I just want to know if anyone has first hand (positive or negative) experience of this. | [
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4,216 | I'm near the end of the build of a i3 MK2 clone and have run into a problem with the Z-axis motors. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up.
`M119` shows all endstops open. Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Using Marlin 1.1.3 with a RAMPS 1.4. Both motors turn and I've even uncoupled the entire X-axis carriage.
Additional test: reversed the z-axis motor wires and they only go up. Inverted the motor direction in software and they also only go up.
Any advice? I've definitely done a few searches but haven't solved the problem.
`Config.h` is as follows (clipped due to posting restrictions):
```
//===========================================================================
//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
//===========================================================================
// @section homing
// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
// coarse Endstop Settings
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
//#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
//=============================================================================
//============================== Movement Settings ============================
//=============================================================================
// @section motion
/**
* Default Settings
*
* These settings can be reset by M502
*
* Note that if EEPROM is enabled, saved values will override these.
*/
/**
* With this option each E stepper can have its own factors for the
* following movement settings. If fewer factors are given than the
* total number of extruders, the last value applies to the rest.
*/
//#define DISTINCT_E_FACTORS
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 100, 100, 4000, 120 }
/**
* Default Max Feed Rate (mm/s)
* Override with M203
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 200, 200, 3, 25 }
/**
* Default Max Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* (Maximum start speed for accelerated moves)
* Override with M201
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 }
/**
* Default Acceleration (change/s) change = mm/s
* Override with M204
*
* M204 P Acceleration
* M204 R Retract Acceleration
* M204 T Travel Acceleration
*/
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non printing) moves
/**
* Default Jerk (mm/s)
* Override with M205 X Y Z E
*
* "Jerk" specifies the minimum speed change that requires acceleration.
* When changing speed and direction, if the difference is less than the
* value set here, it may happen instantaneously.
*/
#define DEFAULT_XJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 10.0
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 2.0
//===========================================================================
//============================= Z Probe Options =============================
//===========================================================================
// @section probes
//
// See http://marlinfw.org/configuration/probes.html
//
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to the Z Min endstop pin.
*/
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
/**
* Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
*
* Enable this option for a probe connected to any pin except Z-Min.
* (By default Marlin assumes the Z-Max endstop pin.)
* To use a custom Z Probe pin, set Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN below.
*
* - The simplest option is to use a free endstop connector.
* - Use 5V for powered (usually inductive) sensors.
*
* - RAMPS 1.3/1.4 boards may use the 5V, GND, and Aux4->D32 pin:
* - For simple switches connect...
* - normally-closed switches to GND and D32.
* - normally-open switches to 5V and D32.
*
* WARNING: Setting the wrong pin may have unexpected and potentially
* disastrous consequences. Use with caution and do your homework.
*
*/
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN Z_MAX_PIN
/**
* Probe Type
*
* Allen Key Probes, Servo Probes, Z-Sled Probes, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, etc.
* You must activate one of these to use Auto Bed Leveling below.
*/
/**
* The "Manual Probe" provides a means to do "Auto" Bed Leveling without a probe.
* Use G29 repeatedly, adjusting the Z height at each point with movement commands
* or (with LCD_BED_LEVELING) the LCD controller.
*/
//#define PROBE_MANUALLY
/**
* A Fix-Mounted Probe either doesn't deploy or needs manual deployment.
* (e.g., an inductive probe or a nozzle-based probe-switch.)
*/
#define FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
/**
* Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm.
*/
//#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 // Defaults to SERVO 0 connector.
//#define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {70,0} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles
/**
* The BLTouch probe uses a Hall effect sensor and emulates a servo.
*/
//#define BLTOUCH
#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)
//#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 375 // (ms) Enable and increase if needed
#endif
/**
* Enable if probing seems unreliable. Heaters and/or fans - consistent with the
* options selected below - will be disabled during probing so as to minimize
* potential EM interference by quieting/silencing the source of the 'noise' (the change
* in current flowing through the wires). This is likely most useful to users of the
* BLTouch probe, but may also help those with inductive or other probe types.
*/
//#define PROBING_HEATERS_OFF // Turn heaters off when probing
//#define PROBING_FANS_OFF // Turn fans off when probing
// A probe that is deployed and stowed with a solenoid pin (SOL1_PIN)
//#define SOLENOID_PROBE
// A sled-mounted probe like those designed by Charles Bell.
//#define Z_PROBE_SLED
//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // The extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.
//
// For Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY see the Delta example configurations.
//
/**
* Z Probe to nozzle (X,Y) offset, relative to (0, 0).
* X and Y offsets must be integers.
*
* In the following example the X and Y offsets are both positive:
* #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
* #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10
*
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R <-- probe (20,20)
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G <-- nozzle (10,10)
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
*/
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 22 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 12 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
// Speed for the first approach when double-probing (with PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH)
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z
// Speed for the "accurate" probe of each point
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)
// Use double touch for probing
//#define PROBE_DOUBLE_TOUCH
/**
* Z probes require clearance when deploying, stowing, and moving between
* probe points to avoid hitting the bed and other hardware.
* Servo-mounted probes require extra space for the arm to rotate.
* Inductive probes need space to keep from triggering early.
*
* Use these settings to specify the distance (mm) to raise the probe (or
* lower the bed). The values set here apply over and above any (negative)
* probe Z Offset set with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, M851, or the LCD.
* Only integer values >= 1 are valid here.
*
* Example: `M851 Z-5` with a CLEARANCE of 4 => 9mm from bed to nozzle.
* But: `M851 Z+1` with a CLEARANCE of 2 => 2mm from bed to nozzle.
*/
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
// Enable the M48 repeatability test to test probe accuracy
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST
// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
// :{ 0:'Low', 1:'High' }
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders
// Disables axis stepper immediately when it's not being used.
// WARNING: When motors turn off there is a chance of losing position accuracy!
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
// Warn on display about possibly reduced accuracy
//#define DISABLE_REDUCED_ACCURACY_WARNING
// @section extruder
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true // Keep only the active extruder enabled.
// @section machine
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false
// Enable this option for Toshiba stepper drivers
//#define CONFIG_STEPPERS_TOSHIBA
// @section extruder
// For direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false.
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false
#define INVERT_E3_DIR false
#define INVERT_E4_DIR false
// @section homing
//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.
// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
// @section machine
// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 230
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
// If enabled, axes won't move below MIN_POS in response to movement commands.
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
// If enabled, axes won't move above MAX_POS in response to movement commands.
//#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
/**
* Filament Runout Sensor
* A mechanical or opto endstop is used to check for the presence of filament.
*
* RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN.
* For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN.
* By default the firmware assumes HIGH = has filament, LOW = ran out
*/
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
#define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_FIL_RUNOUT // Uncomment to use internal pullup for filament runout pins if the sensor is defined.
#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"
#endif
``` | [
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4,220 | I got an Anet A8 and want to build an enclosure for it. Since I'm currently only printing PLA, I would do it mainly for noise cancelling, because I have to run it in my room. I however want to have the possibility to upgrade it later with, say, an air filter etc., for example for ABS.
* What do I have to pay attention to?
* Do I need ventilation slits?
* Would you put the filament inside or run it through a small hole from the top?
* Any tips for making it especially noise cancelling?
* Is wood the right material? | [
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4,224 | I have a Tronxy X3 (i3 Clone) running Repetier firmware on a Melzi board.
I would like to share the printer over my home network so that:
1. Both my boys and I can use the printer. (We have separate Windows 10 PCs)
2. I can initiate a print from my computer upstairs
3. I can monitor the print progress remotely
I have (and could use)
* A RAMPS board set that I could use to run Marlin.
* A Raspberrry Pi 1B
* An idle laptop I (might) be willing to use
What I want to know:
* Are you sharing your printer on a network, and if so, how long
* What Hardware and Software are you using
* What do you like most
* What do you find most annoying
* What do you want to change
* What is the interface (web interface, print driver, etc.)
* What services are provided (printing, slicing, monitoring, etc.)
* Can two computers access it at the same time
Ex: To monitor, or still print if my sons forgot to disconnect
* What sort of monitoring is supported? Ex: camera?
* What runs the print job (G-code) | [
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"text": "**NOTE**: This is not from personal experience, but I thought it was worth mentioning:\n\n### Microsoft\n\nYou'v... | 2017/06/13 | [
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4,225 | Sometimes I notice that if I manually command a single axis movement (typically Z, when I want better access to the extruder), I observe that several channels move together (and they maybe move slower than I expect). After one 'coupled' movement, subsequent commands have the result I'm expecting.
What happens is as well as the Z-axis moving up, the bed moves forward, and the extruder moves to the right. I have no auto-leveling or anything else non-standard on this printer (dual Z steppers, X, Y, extruder, bed, extruder heat).
It even happens if I simply extrude some of the time (e.g. changing filament after warming up, retract gave me some X movement)
Printer is an ANET-A8, I'm using mainly OctoPrint, but I think I've also observed this with other PC software manual controls.
It doesn't happen often enough for me to have identified any pattern - maybe it only happens if I've not homed first after turning the printer on, but I suspect not.
It's not so much of a problem, as just a question for interest. Also not sure how to tag. | [
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"text": "This is easily explained - it's the stepper motors getting powered up. Stepper motors even if not moving are consta... | 2017/06/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4225",
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4,227 | I am having a strange intermittent printing error specific to one particular object I'm trying to print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Sxz.jpg)
My printer is a BCN3D Sigma R17. I am printing a thin wall (0.6mm) cup object. I'm using:
* Simplify3D with Sigma Progen profiles
* 0.6mm brass nozzle (w/thermal paste)
* 0.1mm layer height
* Spiral (vase mode)
* Filaform PLA.
As you can see in the images, the first few layers print ok, but then the nozzle seems to collide/penetrate the previous layer and grinds against it as it moves around in a circle. The result is a combination of rough textured surface and good quality surface. One half of the print also seems to be thicker, presumably from the increased extrusion width caused by squashing layers in the z-axis. I’ve tried
* changing model's wall thickness,
* disabling spiral mode
* increasing layer height
* changing filament
* upgrading printer (latest stepper drivers)
* changing extrusion width
* performing full calibration
All without success. You can view the gcode and S3D fff profile here:
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SnaYyiYI7vcGU1U3Uxb0RrX3M?usp=sharing>
The image shows some filament left hanging from a stopped print. It seemed to be squeezed out from excess pressure, as if it was being blocked during the print due to being pushed against the layers. | [
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"text": "I'd suggest you change the Flow (%).\n\nIt is usually at 100%, but can be adjusted.\nI'd suggest printing at 8... | 2017/06/13 | [
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4,236 | I am at my wits end with this problem. I start a print and the skirt goes down fine, then the outline of the parts go down fine (usually) and then when it goes to fill in the first layer, it will always get stuck to the hotend at some point and rip apart the layer.
Any ideas on how to solve this?
* Printing PLA at 210°C;
* First layer temp is 225°C;
* Bed temp at 60°C;
* 1.75 mm filament, and;
* 0.4 mm nozzle.
Maker Select V2.1, using Cura to slice. | [
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"text": "**Step Zero:** is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the f... | 2017/06/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4236",
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4,251 | I am using Marlin firmware with a RAMPS board on an Anet A8 printer.
The bed size for the printer is 220 x 220 mm and that is stated in the `configuration.h` file. When using mesh bed leveling, the nozzle jumps to the first corner on the bed perfectly after setting the x-min to 5.0 but the next two points are off the end of the bed. Here are my settings:
```
// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 5.0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0.0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 220
#define Y_MAX_POS 220
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
What could be my issue? | [
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"answer_id": 5580,
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"text": "The problem is in the code.\nPlease use these:\n\n```\n// The size of the print bed\n#define X_BED_SIZE ... | 2017/06/18 | [
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4,256 | I want to add auto bed leveling before each print. When I enable auto bed level in `configuration.h`, it only shows **auto bed** in menu. I found this code in `cardreader.cpp`
```
void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {
char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for "M23 ", filename, and null
sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR("M23 %s"), name);
for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);
enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);
enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR("M24"));
}
```
and changed it to
```
void CardReader::openAndPrintFile(const char *name) {
char cmd[4 + strlen(name) + 1]; // Room for "M23 ", filename, and null
sprintf_P(cmd, PSTR("M23 %s"), name);
for (char *c = &cmd[4]; *c; c++) *c = tolower(*c);
enqueue_and_echo_command("G28");
enqueue_and_echo_command("G29");
enqueue_and_echo_command(cmd);
enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(PSTR("M24"));
}
```
Now before each print, the printer does auto bedding **two** times but when print starts the auto bedding is ignored and printer acts like before doing auto bed.
Please help me solve this.
I'm using Marlin Firmware 1.1.0. | [
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"text": "I'm not that fluent in G-code, but at [Modern Machine Shop: Understanding G27, G28, G29 and G30](https://www.mmsonline... | 2017/06/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4256",
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4,259 | I'd like to start 3d printing in wax.
Is there a reasonably priced 3d printer that is capable of it?
Am I right in assuming that all I need is to make my own filament and set extruder temperature correctly, or do I miss something? | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.\n... | 2017/06/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4259",
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4,267 | I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.
I did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.
Don't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.
Here is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!
```
; -- START GCODE --
M136 ; start build
M73 P0
G90 ; absolute coordinates
;
; set temperatures and assert Vref
M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
M104 S{print_temperature} T0
G130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults
; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)
;
; home and recall eeprom home position
T0 ; home on the right nozzle
G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
;
; wait for heat up
G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
M116 ; wait for temps
;
; purge and wipe
G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0
;
; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
; Print time: {print_time}
; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
; Filament cost: {filament_cost}
; -- end of START GCODE --
``` | [
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4,272 | I got a life size model of a signaling post (trains) where I scale it down to 1/87 model (in SketchUp). When I send the model to my 3D printer (with Cura 2.4) some parts of the model are lost in translation even when their dimensions exceed the printer minimal dimension of 0.7 mm.
Is this a known problem of Cura or is something else at hand? | [
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"text": "One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.\n... | 2017/06/21 | [
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4,286 | I have been getting clogs and believe that it may be due to a damaged PTFE tube inside my hot end. I have a replacement (it came with my printer), but I can't seem to fit the tube into the nozzle.
I also tried to turn the original PTFE tube around, and I can't get the other end to fit into the nozzle either.
Is there a trick to it? | [
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"text": "One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.\n... | 2017/06/25 | [
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4,288 | I printed [Planetary Gears](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451) and the top looks great[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oq5DB.jpg)
but the bottom doesn't[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKMDQ.jpg)
I am printing on a TronXY X3 (Prusa i3 metal frame clone) using eSun PLA+ and sliced using Cura 2.4. I print on glass and do manual leveling (sheet of paper to set gap).
What could be causing this?
It almost looks like a raft; but, I selected to print with a Brim not a Raft.
I have seen this on some other prints so I suspect it is a slicer setting.
Note: Bed adhesion seemed great. First adhered well and part popped off with very little effort. | [
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"selected": true,
"text": "**Your nozzle is too far from your bed.** The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in thes... | 2017/06/26 | [
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"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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4,291 | I have an STL file from thingiverse. The model is of a rectangular lid with an engraving. I would like to print it using two different colors, so that the engraving would be in a different color than the lid base. In the model description, the creator explained that he simply switched the material mid printing.
However, I have a two-extruder printer, and I'd like to utilize it for this printing. What's the easiest way (tool) to select a part of the model and define that it should be printed using a different color? | [
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"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "One method is to use meshmixer to select the faces to be created in the second color and \"detach\" them without r... | 2017/06/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4291",
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4,293 | My 3D printer makes weird sounds. When it's at >75% printing speed the extruder motor makes a "tac tac" sound and it goes backwards, pushing the filament back, for a small interval of time. I have tried changing the nozzle temperature and I'm unable to work this out alone.
Has someone had the same problem?
This is the 3D printer: [Geeetech High Quality Wood Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro W 3D Printer Kit](http://www.dx.com/es/p/geeetech-high-quality-wood-geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-w-3d-printer-kit-469707?tc=EUR). | [
{
"answer_id": 4295,
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"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "You are extruding (rather, attempting to extrude) faster than the hotend/nozzle can melt & pump plastic. Eventuall... | 2017/06/27 | [
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4,304 | I have spent ages debugging this problem but I can't figure out what I am doing wrong.
I have a Wanhao duplicator i3 (Prusa i3 clone) and until recently I used Wanhao's adapted version of the Cura slicer. But it's quite an old Cura version and I wanted to make use of the improved supports in the new Cura.
Unfortunately it seems like I just can't get the infill in the newest Cura to work. I copied all the settings from my Wanhao branded Cura version and printed the same file.
**This is the result:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJPkN.jpg)
The infill is shaped like many tiny pillars. They are super fragile and while they do support material to be printed on top, they hardly withstand any pressure.
I have gone through quite a few testing cubes each with some setting altered, but nothing seemed to help.
It can't be the printers fault as I have successfully printed test cubes sliced with the old Cura in between (and not only once). Increasing temperature or slowing down the infill didn't help either. Neither did increasing flow rate or switching to triangular infill pattern. Also I have tried printing with all speeds set to 50mm/s and it still failed.
**My standard settings** *(from which I have created many test cubes with each cube having some settings tweaked)*:
```
Layer Height: 0.12 mm
Init. Layer Height: 0.10 mm
Wall Line Count: 2
Top Layers: 6
Bottom Layers: 4
Infill Line distance: 5 mm (used to be 20 % in old Cura, but this is very dense in the new Cura)
Infill Pattern: Lines
Infill Overlap Percentage: 20 %
Printing Temperature: 200 °C
Build Plate Temperature: 60 °C
Retraction: Enabled, Distance: 2 mm, Speed: 60 mm/s
Speeds: Print:60 mm/s, Infill: 60 mm/s, Outer Wall: 30 mm/s, Inner Wall: 60 mm/s, Top/Bottom: 40 mm/s, Travel: 100 mm/s, Initial Layer: 20 mm/s
Combing Mode: All
``` | [
{
"answer_id": 4439,
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"text": "This problem is most commonly caused by infill speeds which are too high.\n\nInstead of printing lines, the fil... | 2017/06/28 | [
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4,307 | Building a 3-D printer is obviously a huge undertaking.
Does anyone know of any reasonably cheap guides to build my own 3-D printer? | [
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"text": "If you just want to build your own, get a kit. There are several out there. Most kits take from 1-5 days to co... | 2017/06/29 | [
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4,310 | I know nothing about 3D printing and I was wondering if it is a good candidate for what I want to make.
I want to make a custom game cartridge which looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0RpQ.jpg)
Basically it's like a SD card in a custom shell. Now I can produce the inside as a thin PCB (0.6mm-1mm). But I was wondering what the best (and cheapest) way to prototype (and maybe make a small run production) the outer shell would be. The entire cart is about 2mm thick, so each half of the shell would be at most ~0.6mm thick.
Is this something I can do with a typical 3D printer? How would I "attach" the two halves together? | [
{
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"text": "With the experience I have with my 3d printer you can make (almost) everything you can draw with it.\n\n0.6mm ... | 2017/06/29 | [
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4,315 | As far as I know resin trays have a Teflon coat that allows prints to stick to the build plate easier than the resin tray but this Teflon coat wears over time.
I am new to the SLA scene and am currently troubleshooting a Draken Facture and trying to hone in my setting but my print keep sticking to the bottom of the resin vat.
How often should these trays be swapped out to allow for smooth printing? | [
{
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"selected": false,
"text": "I did some research and the life of the resin and resin tray appears to be dependent on how you use it. For ex... | 2017/06/30 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4315",
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4,326 | I bought some heating block cotton to insulate the exposed surface of my hot end. I thought the yellow as double-sticky but it appears to be Kapton.
What can I use to attach it to the extruder?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FFOY.jpg)
My extruder is already covered on four sides. I want to cover the other two.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png) | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "Kapton tape would be the logical material. It's unfortunate that your vendor did not supply that as a separate ite... | 2017/07/02 | [
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4,329 | Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbumF.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qo32X.jpg) | [
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"text": "It is possible that your selected layer height isn't compatible with the pitch of your leadscrew. I believe the rep... | 2017/07/02 | [
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4,330 | My Anet A8 frame are broken. I find frame project [AM8 - Metal Frame for Anet A8](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263216). I like it but I can't find aluminum extrusion needed, like this: [MiSUMi - Aluminum Extrusion - 5 series, Base 20, 20mm x 40mm](https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302684350/?Inch=0&CategorySpec=00000042730%3A%3A20x40).
Maybe somebody knows where I can buy it in Ukraine? Or maybe another frame options? | [
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"selected": true,
"text": "There are lots of online sources for T-slot aluminum extrusions from [ebay](https://www.ebay.com/) to [McMaster... | 2017/07/02 | [
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4,332 | I've gone on quite a few sites (thingiverse, grabcad, etc) in search for a coiled tube, but I have yet to find anything suitable. There are a few coils ("springs") but no coiled tubes (i.e. the springs are hollow). Maybe my searching hasn't been good enough! But I was wondering if this is a limitation to 3D printing models? | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "No, this is not a limitation. You should be able to create a coiled tube in almost every 3D design software ... | 2017/07/03 | [
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4,340 | This is a line drawing and I would like to print it a couple of mm high. I cannot figure out how to get this line drawing filled. I converted to SVG with Inkscape, used GIMP, took it online to TinkerCad and tried it with Onshape but all I ever get is just the line and this does not work well on my printer. What is a smart way to get this filled in and ready to go?
I use TinkerCad to convert to STL and that works fine. So I could also try to edit the STL in stead of the SVG file.
Maybe I should print the original scanned image (TIFF) and then fill it by hand with black ink and then scan it and convert it to SVG but that sounds really dumb.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzDoY.png)
**UPDATE**
I went back to the original drawing and using the bucket tool. The result is a rather noisy image and I need it to be sharp and tight to be able to convert it to a good SVG later on.
Looks like it is more of a graphics design question now..
<https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/94773/from-drawing-to-3d-print>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jakBT.png) | [
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"text": "If you don't mind adding another tool to your toolbox, you can use a plug-in for Inkscape called [Inkscape OpenSCA... | 2017/07/04 | [
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4,353 | I have been working with our SLA printer (Facture Draken) for a couple weeks now printing in makerjuice waxcast. . I have had some successful prints, but the majority (80%) end up as pancakes stuck to the bottom of the resin tray. Some others break in half mid print.
I have experimented with laying my models (round circular diks) flat on the build plate, but most of the times I place them on supports which stem from a square baseplate.
It seems clear to me that there is allot of force being put on the models while curing on the bottom of the resin tray. I have noticed that printing objects with a larger projection area are more likely to stick in the vat. I assume this is because of the increased contact with the tray. Usually it seems ~10 layers are built before my baseplate breaks away.
Things I have tried
* Pulling out the build plate, cleaning it with Acetone. Sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper.
* Emptying the resin tray and replacing with new resin.
* Upping base-layer cure-time from from 30seconds up to 3 minutes, and variations between.
* Upping base-layer count from 2 to 4.
* Rotating model base 45% to start the tray peel process from a corner rather than from a long edge to reduce initial tear force.
Anyone with experience got more suggestions on how to continue troubleshooting? | [
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"text": "Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. \n\n* Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose piece... | 2017/07/11 | [
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4,355 | What are the basic necessities needed to build a 3d printing machine.
* Workforce
* Technology
* Money
* etc.
I'm an undergrad and my friends and I would like to make a printer for a project. We wanted to get an idea of the prerequisites for this work. | [
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"text": "Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. \n\n* Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose piece... | 2017/07/11 | [
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4,361 | I have just ordered some filament samples (each sample is 10m x 1.75mm). How should I test the samples, given that there is only 10 metres of each to play with? Just printing a benchy will use about 4 metres. I would probably want to print a benchy, so that leaves 6 metres to play with. I am mostly interested in producing functional (not decorative) pieces. I do not have a heated bed. | [
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"text": "Select an STL that exhibits characteristics you want to test (bridging, resistance to various pressures) and print it ... | 2017/07/12 | [
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4,367 | Testing my new Wanhao i3+. PLA plastic(Wanhao), basic normal quality settings in Cura (I guess 0.1 mm layer, 40 mm/s speed, 60c bed temp, 200c extruder temp). After 1.5 hours of printing quality degraded, it makes some loose structure.
Edit:
After finish I noticed that problem exists only in layers where it cycles printing/no printing. There is no problem on layers where it print continuously.
What is the reason can be and how can I fix that?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W90dj.jpg) | [
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"text": "**It definitely looks like under extrusion.** \n\n1. First thing I would check is the filament feeder to make ... | 2017/07/12 | [
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4,368 | I am trying to control a laser with the fan (D9) and ran into problems.
So I tried P44, no good then P6 also not good.\
What my problem is I am trying to "burn" a group of vertical lines spaced about 0.75" apart, and randomly the drive to the laser power supply is either "skipping" (missing the control pulse) or stretching the pulse.
This results in missed burns and/or "streaks" where the laser does not turn off.
I am using Marlin 1.1.4 on a RAMPS 1.4 board (clone) on an Arduino close also.
When I am not printing, the pulses are perfect and I can control the pulse width with M42 P6(or 44) S0 (to 255) and it follows just fine.
It is ONLY while I am printing and the steppers are moving that things go south.
This also occurs on D9 (fan) and that is why I am trying these other outputs.
These other outputs use different timers in the 2560 as well.
I have tried all sorts and combinations of firmware settings, different USB cable and different USB ports on my computer, with no change.
What might I be missing? | [
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"text": "**Have you checked the supply voltage?** With everything turned on (steppers stepping, laser on, etc) you may ... | 2017/07/13 | [
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4,380 | I have a TronXY printer (i3 Clone). It has a 220x220 mm heated aluminum bed and I print with a Borosilicate glass plate.
I have a slightly longer print (245 mm) I would like to do and I think I could adjust to settings and end stop to stretch the y-dimension travel and I have found a 229x257 mm plate. This would extend over the edge of the aluminum bed.
Will the thermal conduction and mass of the glass plate be sufficient to still keep the bed warm enough? | [
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"text": "The aluminum plate is being heated by the heater element although I suspect the element does not encompass the enti... | 2017/07/16 | [
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4,381 | Is there a way to change the direction a motor goes with G-code instead of reconfiguring Marlin firmware? | [
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"text": "For the X/Y/Z axes, you can use `M92` to change the axis steps per unit to a negative value, which causes it... | 2017/07/16 | [
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4,385 | I'm working with a group at the MIT Launch startup accelerator for high school and I was hoping to do some market research regarding some of the current problems with desktop 3D printers. I was hoping to get some feedback from all your experience with 3D printing and the hours of troubleshooting you've likely encountered.
What workarounds and aftermarket modifications are the most useful? If you could change one thing about your printer what would it be? How do you troubleshoot issues and how long does it take? What would make you more likely to 3d print more often (ie never clogged, didn't have to watch first layer, etc)? In your opinion, what are the biggest issues the desktop 3D printing industry faces? Just share any wishes, thoughts, hopes, dreams, etc about 3D printing
Thank you so much for your time and sharing your experience! | [
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"text": "First, regarding **\"Why do 3D Printers Suck?\"** - The answer is **They Don't!**\n\nEvery tool has its limita... | 2017/07/16 | [
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4,395 | Can anyone help me find/confirm the information needed to setup the CR-10 in the Cura Software
I have following settings from research:
**Printer Settings**
* x = 300 mm
* y = 300 mm
* z = 400 mm
* Build Plate = Rectangular
* Machine Center is Zero = Checked
* Heated Bed = Checked
* G-code Flavor = RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) **-- Uncertain - please help confirm this**
**Print Head Settings**
* X min = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Y min = **Unclear where this comes from**
* X max = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Y max = **Unclear where this comes from**
* Gantry Height = **Unclear where this is measured from**
* Number of Extruders = 1
* Material Diameter - 1.75 mm
* Nozzle size = 0.4 mm | [
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"text": "**GCode flavor**: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that.... | 2017/07/18 | [
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4,411 | How do I speed up prints for the Monoprice Select IIIP Plus printer?
The manual shows [Cura] examples of:
* Print speed: 50mm/s
* Travel Speed: 80mm/s
* Bottom Layer Speed: 20mm/s
* Infill Speed: 50mm/s
* Outer shell speed: 15mm/s
* Inner shell speed: 30mm/s
However, this doesn’t line up with their advertisements online of a 150mm/s printing speed.
Are there better settings to use, especially ones which can speed up printing time? Or are there any other measures which I can take in order to reduce printing time in general? | [
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"text": "In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes... | 2017/07/22 | [
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4,418 | I cannot generate the upper part of the solid properly which contain a hole (as in the picture). The solid part (bottom section) printed well.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpBfR.jpg)
What should I change to print the part with hole properly?
Is it a problem with machine or the design?
I am using Hydra 3D printer. | [
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"text": "It appears that the upper part of your print contains less plastic than the lower. This would mean that as the pri... | 2017/07/25 | [
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4,421 | I have Ramps 1.4 and would like to get answer on extrusion in Marlin firmware. I have NEMA 17 stepper motor 1.8 deg, set to 1/16 step. Mk7 direct drive.
38 teeth in extruder drive gear. I bought it from [this website](https://www.robotics.org.za/RDKIT-00?search=extru).
Here are my current settings:
```
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80,80, 4000, 180 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 3, 45 }
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 9000, 9000, 100, 300 }
```
I am using ABS 1.75 filament and a 0.4 nozzle. | [
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"text": "According to the description, the drive gear you have has a `10.8mm` diameter. This means that (in the ideal... | 2017/07/25 | [
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4,429 | This is my first time building a 3D printer (a "[Creality Ender-4](https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/creality-ender4-3d-printer)").
Everything is going fine except the "extruder kit" part that does not have enough space to attach on the frame. Should I drill it to have a longer hole so it can be attached to the frame? I just want another set of eyes to look at it to make sure I'm not crazy.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw3kh.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VCDP6.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Z8C2.jpg) | [
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"text": "According to the description, the drive gear you have has a `10.8mm` diameter. This means that (in the ideal... | 2017/07/27 | [
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4,432 | I'm planning to make an LCD Resin printer. I'm still learning and I found out that I need daylight resin (which hardens when white light comes from the LCD).
If I search for "Daylight resin" on Google, the only "useful" result I find is for [Photocentric](https://photocentric3d.com/daylightresins/?v=9b6a28c805e0).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWTR9m.jpg)
Photocentric sells Daylight resins and the prices seem to be good too; however, I'm trying to search for alternatives. I'm not interested in something cheaper, I'd like to choose a resin which has more colors. Photocentric's hard resin only comes in cream/green/gray colors. I would need at least white/black/transparent resin.
Is it the only option we have? Are there any other manufacturer out there which produces Daylight resin/LCD-hardening resin with a variety of colors? | [
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"text": "It looks like [Ono](https://store.ono3d.net/) may fit what you are looking for.\nThey have several colors liste... | 2017/07/28 | [
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4,457 | I have an ANET A2 Prusa - which I've setup and performed a few prints on and they have various problems with the quality. I'm after some specific experience on what the flow of filament should look like or if my decription triggers someone
I've been adjusting settings - In particular the temperature - as the filament seemed too fluid as I could easily cause a large spurt of molten plastic by manually pushing the filament with very little effort.
So I reduced the head temperature to 195 and all seemed better
However after a time - I noticed on a longer print that the feeding was sometimes failing with the filament jerking back as the feeder slipped off it
The stepper did not appear to slip back just the gear skipped on the filament
It appeared to cause a problem in the print with a few of the lines being missing before it started extruding normally again
I increased the temperature back to 200 - however the issue continued intermittently however I left it and when I returned the head had become blocked with the final part of the succesful print consisting of very thin hair like extrusions and eventually stopping completely
The head is flooded and I need to clean it out
So my questions are - how runny should the filament look when the head is at the correct temperatures, is the extremely runny filament I saw at 200 obviously too hot - or is that normal or at least have people seen it looking like that when successfully printing?
Initially , before I reduced the temperature, I doubled the skirt and that seem to make a good enough print
Does anyone have experience of why it can seem to be printing but then slowly start failing until the head becomes blocked? | [
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4,459 | I am looking for methods to reduce the amount of noise produced by my CR-10. I have the printer in my downstairs study and if I'm doing a long print job, you can hear it upstairs in my son's bedroom and I don't want it keep him awake.
I've seen there are noise reduction feet available on Thingiverse but apparently these can result quite significant vibrations of the printer itself, which could mess up the print.
I've also seen one guy using a paving block but I'm not sure how effective that would be and also don't think my cheap Ikea desk would cope very well with having a concrete block put on it.
I was wondering about trying an off-cut of carpet. Has anyone tried this or have any other suggestions? | [
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4,460 | I play a [berimbau](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berimbau) for Capoeira. One of the most fragile (and most expensive) bits is the *cabaça*, a hollow gourd used as a resonator.
I'm not very familiar with the qualities of the resin used for 3d printing. If I were to take this to our local Maker Lab and have them scan and print a copy, how likely is it that it would work? My fear is that the plastic would be too sound deadening.
If you want a less exotic parallel, imagine the body of a guitar. That's a resonating chamber. | [
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"text": "I'll take a stab here, but my gut instinct is to say that a printed part will not sound the same as your original gourd... | 2017/08/04 | [
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4,469 | I am extending the bed of my TronXY X3 FDM RepRap printer.
I am extending the bed from 220 mm x 220 mm to 220 mm x 300 mm. For now, I will keep the existing bed and add and aluminum sheet on top. That leaves 40mm on front and back of the original bed.
Right now I only plan on running PLA; but, I do plan on heating the bed.
How thick does the aluminum sheet need to be? | [
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"text": "Main factors that control the process of the print bed selection are\n\n* weight: too thick plate increases inert... | 2017/08/08 | [
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4,471 | I have a mesh of a bowl that has the perfect shape of half a sphere. I want to easily convert it to the containing sphere solid and a box solid that will be subtracted from it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FlT0X.png "Conversion process")
Googling mesh to solid shows that in various tools such as 3ds Max, Fusion, etc., manual approximation of where the sphere might go is created manually by visually comparing to the mesh or the cross section when creating the solid but I am looking for the minimum enclosing sphere and box to be generated/calculated by the software.
Source file format is of course not an issue, it can be any known mesh file. | [
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"text": "The calculations for your objective could be considered simple geometry, although the results in terms of formulae... | 2017/08/08 | [
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4,472 | I am curious about the algorithm/principles behind the estimates that the slicing softwares provide. Is there a standard technique behind this and how accurate is it ? | [
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4,484 | On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in `/Applications/Cura250` and `/Applications/Cura262`.
How can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6? | [
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4,487 | For personal usage, indoor, I'm doing some experiments with following lamp (v0.1):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SrEhy.jpg)
LakhmJ is a led bulb enclosed in a methacrylate tube and with a 3D printed finish at the top using PLA (my first 3d print ;-).
In some www pages (by example, [here](https://www.lifx.com/blogs/the-latest/19032975-how-hot-are-led-light-bulbs)) I've read that the led buld radiator can reach 90º C. Experimentally, the methacrylate and the PLA feels only slightly hot, I suppose around 40ºC.
According to www info, PLA has a melting point of 150ºC, far from this usage, but a continuous operative temperature of only 40ºC ( !? this made 3d printing unable in a country as my own one, where ambient in summer is around 40ºC).
So, my question, is PLA a valid material for this application? If not, some other one better?
Thanks a lot. | [
{
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"author": "EvilTeach",
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"text": "I had a PLA print that would weaken and deform when sitting in the car on a hot day. I think you should try it wi... | 2017/08/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487",
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4,493 | Carbon 3d made a 100x faster printer which has a simple and cheap mechanism using a Teflon layer. It appears to have a 20mn in RnD Costs and $7000 mass market production cost.
The only access method for one is a USD$ 161,250 yearly subscription.
Their printer is not available in shapeways... Is there something wrong with Carbon 3D so that it does not view consumers as a direct market, and has no market news on it's website?
How can they spend 222 million in investment money and not have a 3d printer in shapeways or public access? | [
{
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"text": "I will take the question seriously, and consider reasons why Carbon 3D might choose to offer their technology through a... | 2017/08/14 | [
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4,496 | I am experiencing a minor layer separation when printing a body for a tipping-bucket rain gauge, which is basically a hollow tube with thin walls (3 mm). I am using **Prusa I3 MK2** and a **Fillamentum ABS** white plastic. The model has been sliced in **Siplify 3D** with the following settings:
* layer height: 0.2 mm
* perimeter shells: 3 layers (almost entirely
fills up the wall)
* extruder temperature: 230 °C
* printing speed: default - 50 mm/s, outline - 35 mm/s, infill - 35 mm/s
Is it possible to prevent the irregular and layer separation by adjusting some of the settings, and not significantly increasing the printing time, which is already 13 hours?
PICTURES:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNvWx.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/93hzZ.jpg) | [
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"text": "The best thing you can do for a large ABS print is to have an enclosure heated to 50C or better. For example, see [this... | 2017/08/15 | [
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4,505 | I was looking for some advice on which 3D printers are good for someone who is just getting into 3D printing?
I have been looking at the Anet A8 on ebay but not sure if they are any good or not.
Regards | [
{
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"text": "A budget would make answering your question alot easier. Do you have any experience with cad/cam software? W... | 2017/08/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4505",
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4,508 | I am wondering if anyone can help me achieve a good 3d print using polypropylene. I am trying to print custom insoles for shoes and I'm getting some bad warping/lifting (see image).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKi1R.jpg)
Some details about the print and process:
* I have a Prusa i3 Mk2S with a Flexion extruder
* I am using what I believe is a good quality filament (Verbatim PP): <https://www.verbatim.com.au/3d-printing/pp-filament/3d-pp-filament.html>
* I am coating my hotbead with clear packaging adhesive (OPP tape) as per the manufacturers instructions. This appears to help quite a bit.
* Bed heated to 75 degrees. I tried 100 but got hit with the "Heatbed Thermal Runaway" error which I believe indicates that not enough voltage is getting to the bed heater.
* I've tried printing at 220 degrees and 170 degrees.
* I've tried enclosing the printer in a makeshift enclosure to reduce the speed that the material is cooling at.
* Other settings: speed 40mm/s constant, 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 3 top bottom and side layers.
The print takes about 5 hours and seems to stay down for an hour or two before starting to warp.
Does anyone have any suggestions of things I should try? | [
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"text": "You should enable the \"brim\" functionality of your slicer. This adds additional perimeters to the first la... | 2017/08/18 | [
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4,520 | I have started printing with PETG so I can create objects that won't deform if I leave them in my car.
My first prints look good, but have strings of material coming off the print in places.
What should I try to prevent that?
I haven't had this problem with PLA. | [
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"text": "I've had similar experiences switching from PLA to PETG, and haven't gotten it fully figured out yet.\n\nFrom what I k... | 2017/08/21 | [
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4,527 | I'm /relatively/ new to 3d printing (I'm getting pretty good prints from my Wanhao di3 plus, but haven't done any DIY kits or anything) and materials engineering is probably the furthest thing from my area of expertise so I thought I would pose this to more experienced makers:
If I'm building a large scale printer (probably a similar size to substation33 - sub33D's 1200x1200 printer) that I'm only going to print in PLA and MAYBE ABS occasionally, can I substitute the heated bed for simply heating the entire enclosure?
The idea would be to have a thermistor measuring the ambient air temp inside the enclosure with a heat gun or two to hear the entire enclosure as necessary. I want to do this to try and reduce the cost (significantly as far as I can tell) as it seems 400\*400 silicone heat pads tend to go for about 80 bucks a pop.
An alternate idea I had was to use two or three heat pads and space them evenly under a glass bed, although I feel that this won't work as well because the heating won't be homogenous...
Any input is appreciated :) | [
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"text": "If you want to print ABS at even one third of that scale, you will want a heated bed **and** a heated enclosure. Posts... | 2017/08/22 | [
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4,530 | I print my ABS at:
* 240 °C;
* with a bedtemp of 80 °C;
* 5 % rectilinear infill;
* 0.25 mm layer height;
* 2 solid layers top and bottom;
* Fan is completely disabled;
* 0.25 mm extrusion width;
* 50 mm/s perimeter print speed;
* 60 mm/s infill speed;
* 20 mm/s top solid and solid speed;
* No acceleration.
When printing ABS, I place an aluminum foil lined cardboard box over my printer to help keep the ambient temps up for less warping and stronger prints. I've never actually measured the temperature inside, but the cardboard box insulates very well.
I get this weird kind of tearing in my prints, I'm not sure if it's from too large of gaps in my infill, too fast print speeds, or not enough top layers.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Y27.jpg "Torn print")
Another guess is some kind of drooping because of the high ambient temps.
The tearing only occurs on large top layer surfaces. | [
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"text": "I believe it is from the ABS falling into the gaps of your 10% infill. I print ABS with 35% honeycomb infill and I use... | 2017/08/22 | [
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4,533 | I'm interested in printing small machine parts (gears, linkages, structural components) so I'm looking for accuracy and mechanical strength over speed and volume.
I'm also somewhat concerned about harmful emissions so would like a solution with some sort of filtration, whether it's built into the machine or something added. I'm thinking I will run the machine in an unventilated garage, which is quite warm and humid during the summer in Texas.
My price range is \$1500-\$2000 USD. I've looked at several options but I didn't really come across any scenarios like I've described and would like some advice from the experts before committing.
Anyone in a similar boat have any suggestions? | [
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"text": "Your environmental conditions will preclude finding a machine suitable for your purposes in the budget specified.\n... | 2017/08/22 | [
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4,542 | I am an art rubber stamp maker, using a vulcanizer to make art rubber stamps from molds that are usually created with a magnesium plate.
The normal process is to send artwork off to an engraving firm to acid etch the magnesium plate (11 pt depth is desired) and that metal plate is then used with uncured matrix boards (a bakelight type material) that is "cured" in the vulcanizer that is then used over and over to make as many images of the rubber stamps as one would want. The vulcanizer heats up to 300 to 320 °F, and one usually uses 2000 to 2500 p.s.i. of pressure for 10 to 15 minutes to cure a mold. Once the mold is cured, it is impervious to the heat used in the vulcanizer, and the heat is used to cure the unvulcanized rubber (again, 300 or so degrees, 2000 psi, or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.
In reading up about the melting points of PLA and ABS, the 200 °C equates to around 460 °F, so there doesn't seem like the heat of the vulcanizer will be an issue, and the pressure isn't applied all at once, one usually allows the uncured matrix board to heat up before the high pressure is obtained, I'm just curious if any other stamp makers have had success with this method and/or have any suggestions about STL files for this type of printing, if there needs to be 2 or 3 degree shoulder angle added to the file configuration, or any other suggestions. | [
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"text": "I don't know if I understood your question properly. You using the mold to create a rubber stamp and then you use... | 2017/08/25 | [
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4,551 | My printer stopped printing during a few prints, and i found that the extruder had stopped heating, and the motors had stopped running. I checked the code, and nothing was wrong. My 5A fuse though, was extremely hot. I wanted to verify whether it was my fuse that had turned bad or there was some kind of short in my circuitry.
With the power switched on, none of my appliances drew any current. However, the RAMPS board drew about 0.16 amps.
Is that normal?
If that is normal, does it mean that my fuse needs replacement? Because none of my loads seemed to draw unnecessary current.
Thanks in advance. | [
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"text": "As @Mikhail Z commented, it does sound like the fuse may be bad.\n\nThe first thing to do is put an ohmmeter across th... | 2017/08/26 | [
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4,554 | I made a tea bowl, but it leaked when making it in PLA...
What are the key points to keep in mind when designing and printing an object that is intended to hold water using an FDM printer? | [
{
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"text": "When designing the object, you should make sure your object is completely enclosed (obviously). When printing, try inc... | 2017/08/27 | [
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4,556 | can anyone explain in the simplest terms please what is the difference between a point cloud and a voxel mesh? | [
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"text": "I believe a point cloud is just a collection of points, while voxels - \"3D pixels\" - define location and a cube area... | 2017/08/27 | [
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4,568 | I have a generic printer with no support documentation.
How do I determine what firmware is in use so that I can research how to make the print run? | [
{
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"text": "Send `M115` to the printer. This command is \n\n> \n> Request the Firmware Version and Capabilities of the curren... | 2017/08/30 | [
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4,575 | I'm getting this printing where it's not laying the plastic down very well. What could be causing this? I've printed with these settings before, and it turned out just fine. If you need any other info to properly diagnose this, let me know.
I'm using a Robo3D R1+
[![Bad Print[1]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cT7dV.jpg) | [
{
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"text": "I´ve seen this in my Prusa due two parameters that may vary your results depending on climate if your prin... | 2017/08/31 | [
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4,576 | We manufacture artificial corals for aquarium decorations.
We are trying to use 3D scanning and printing to duplicate live corals. Please see attached photos, left is 3D printed model, right is coral molded using resin.
The problem is lacking detail, the real corals have pores (tiny holes).
Can anybody please help to add pores to the 3D printed corals? Maybe using Blender 3D software?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6o2mq.jpg "3D printed coral is lacking pores (tiny holes)")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxHVE.jpg "3D printed coral (left) vs resin molded coral (right)") | [
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"text": "First thing to check it's, What printer are you using? is FDM or SLA/SLS? Technology used is the great bottleneck... | 2017/09/01 | [
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4,602 | I have a Maker Farm Prusa i3v 8" i just finished building. Initially when i first homed it, it ran fine, it even ran a test g code for movement. The problem is now the Z axis wont move anymore. First i checked for physical issues such as binding or nuts coming out of traps, everything's OK there. In Pronterface i can move x & y no problem, but Z will not move, there is no noise from the steppers. Also unusual is the the Z axis is not on the endstop, its resting on its own in a spot (the hotend is about 2mm off the bed). I ordered some new end stop switches to try on my Z axis....any thoughts? I'll update after switch install. | [
{
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"text": "If you are using Repetier the code to test the endstops is m119 I think. If your z stop is triggered, yo... | 2017/09/09 | [
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4,605 | Yesterday evening i have been trying to print a few upgrades but after coming home after an hour, it is printing in the air because there is to much filament dust inside the extruder. Is this because the filament that is being extruded is getting to soft so the gear grinds parts off? I never had this problem before.
Printer:
Anet A8. | [
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"text": "If you are using Repetier the code to test the endstops is m119 I think. If your z stop is triggered, yo... | 2017/09/11 | [
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4,609 | I like using "Vase Mode" (or single outline corkscrew printing mode) for quick nonfunctional prints, but it tends to leave gaps in horizontal or near horizontal surfaces. I understand why it does this, but is there a way (beyond printing with no infill\*) to get a little more horizontal coverage out of it?
\*Is the answer to this literally just "Try to print without infill?" | [
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"text": "Vase mode is what it is... As it prints one perimeter there is just one extrusion. Try increasing extrusion rate ... | 2017/09/12 | [
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4,619 | I am having issue with my new printer it is not printing circles correctly although I have change firmware and stepping of motor
advise if anyone know the solution.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7egRT.jpg) | [
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"text": "This could be because your belts are either old or not tight enough. Try adjust or replacing the belts and try again... | 2017/09/13 | [
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4,632 | I've been trying to get something decent printed for days but nothing works! I have a Tarantula Tevo i3 `MKS Base V1.4` and have done a lot of trial & plenty of error. Still I am puzzled to get good prints.
1. What is the stock firmware for a single extruder regular/large bed firmware & how to configure a large bed (if needed to be configured)?
2. Which is the auto bed leveling firmware?
I need help sorting out what's out there. I did not manage to configure a large bed with a single extruder. But did manage to restore firmware with [Marlin-2.0.x](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/)
1. So the [Tevo 3D Printing Store firmware link](https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/pages/tevo-tarantula-firmware) directs to a [dropbox](https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ndykfl1wkw8enpj/AACTlV5qC9dpaJA1PYYLACeha?dl=0) - only dual extruders - both regular & large bed,
2. There is JimBrown's GitHub [MarlinTarantula](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula) - Optimized firmware for RepRap 3D printers based on the Arduino platform,
3. JoelLisenby's GitHub [TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware](https://github.com/JoelLisenby/TEVO-Tarantula-I3-Marlin-Firmware).
I followed this, [YouTube - Setting Up Auto Bed Leveling (Tevo Tarantula)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93p5ziFiGqs), for setting up the auto bed leveling sensor but it just got me messed-up even more, see [Tevo Tarantula incorrectly auto leveling of bed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4624/tt-is-bed-auto-leveling). I'm just now in the process of trying to manually level the bed and I broke the hot end holder plastic plate...
---
**EDIT**:
The sensor I'm using is [SN04-N Inductive Proximity Sensor - 5mm](https://www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&catid=13&pcid=11&prodid=402) | [
{
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"text": "Answer for **\"2)\"**:\n--------------------\n\nThe default firmware seems to be Repetier. It also includes Bed le... | 2017/09/16 | [
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4,637 | I have make a little test with 4 dots aligned with A tower, B and C tower. Distance W and S are the same in the stl but not in the print. I have tried diferent values of diagonal root but S always is smaller than W, and all S are equal (more or less 38.20mm) and all W are equal (more or less 40.80). I expect that W and S will be 40mm. How can fix this problem?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkUAj.png)
**Update:**
Here is the stl I use: <https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vwjbo387cmk5qa/DeltaCalibration%20v15.stl?dl=0>
**Update:**
I have replaced the steper motor in tower B but same result. | [
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"text": "Well, you have two main issues:\n\n**1.-** Your calculation for stepping is a little wrong, for example y... | 2017/09/18 | [
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4,643 | I am having this problem with my printer. It doesn't print smooth circular objects. The objects are typically "ribbed" or ridged... never smooth. I am not sure how to fix this.
I have tried fixing it in Meshmixer, I've tried *Sli3r* (I normally use *Cura* 2.7). I've tried turning down acceleration as low as it will go (500 in my printer's case), tried slowing down the actual print and travel speeds. Short of just replacing the dang thing (not an option at all), I have no idea what to do... I'm at a total loss for words here.
My printer is a TronXY P802MA. Auto Level, runs *Marlin* firmware. I use Octoprint as my print server. The picture shows the odd texture. It's at the bottom of this particular model. For some reason, within the pictured model, the problem isn't reproduced in the partial spheres.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WKe5A.jpg "Unwanted texture") | [
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"text": "Did you try to use different infill? Denser or less dense?\n\nYou can also try to reduce overlapping infil with... | 2017/09/22 | [
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4,646 | I'm building my own DLP printer with UV LEDs. I use a 20A relay to power them on, since they require high power and can't be directly driven by arduino or Raswgesrh.
I'm planning to use them with NanoDLP on Raswgesrh + GRBL on Asquine.
Is it possible to make NanoDLP tell GRBL to power on (send digital 1/+5V) the relay when the print starts and power it off (send digital 0/GND) when the print ends?
The other way would be to just install an on/off switch and do it manually, but I feel this step should be automated somehow.
Is there a way to do it? | [
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"text": "I think you don't have to use the Arduino. There´s an option in NanoDLP to control the z-axis through the Ra... | 2017/09/22 | [
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4,660 | I have a [Alunar M508 machine](https://www.alunar.net/m508-self-assembly-3d-printer.html) that I am trying to get new firmware on. The firmware that was loaded on the machine wasn't very good. The x axis was mirrored and the home point was way off. I was looking into Marlin to put on the machine, but don't have any experience on what to edit in the code to make it work for this machine.
Does anyone have any experience with this machine? Uploading new firmware that works or editing the code to make it work for this machine. I appreciate any help!
Here is a link to [the firmware I am currently using](https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware). I'm on MacOS Sierra 10.12.5 using the 1.6.8 Arduino IDE. | [
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"text": "*disclaimer*: I am the maintainer of the firmware that [you linked](https://github.com/camalot/alunar-prusa-i3-... | 2017/09/27 | [
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4,661 | Is there anything special for printing TPU material e.g extruder or temperature?
It's my first time printing TPU material, so if you have any photos, it would be great if you can share them. | [
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"text": "Elastomers do much better on direct-drive heads (pulled to the head by the motor) than on Bowden designs (where the ma... | 2017/09/27 | [
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4,664 | I have had a 3d printer for a while now, and I have a lot of the quality settings dialed in pretty well, but one thing that constantly bugs me is removing the raft from my finished prints. I am using Repetier and I have set the air gap to 0.2 mm. That led to much better results than the default 0, which were impossible to remove at all, but it is still not great. Are there any settings I should look at changing to get easier to remove rafts? Does the filament affect this? I am printing in Hatchbox PLA at high temps. I have a heated bed, and reducing the temp on that did seem to help. Maybe it keeps the layers on the raft from fusing with the layers on the part? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. | [
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"text": "As comments suggest, a raft is not all that popular. Consider using a brim/skirt instead. I've had excellent ... | 2017/09/27 | [
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4,666 | Apologies, I'm a EE designer and software guy. We've been CNC'ing prototypes, and my office just bought a very cheap 3D printer.
I'm using Cura as recomended, and wanted to print a piece that has features on both sides.
Here is a screenshot of each side.
So if you laid one side flat, you see how there is a subtractive portion underneath it?
Is there a way to 3D print an object like this, and keep the details on each side?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2T54.jpg)
**UPDATE**
I copied some Cura settings from guys and basically tipped this thing to a 45 degree. Here are the results. Pretty good! The finish has some zits and pops, but the surface details are quite accurate enough to fit a PCB board in there with confidence.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jAWN.jpg) | [
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"text": "I haven't tried printing anything like that, but one trick is to print the piece at an angle of 45°, so as to minimise ... | 2017/09/28 | [
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4,677 | I'm using Solidworks to design parts to be 3d-printed.
I've noticed that if I'm making an assembly, where one part has features that touch other parts, then when I try to save that assembly as an STL for printing, I'll get a dialog from Solidworks saying "This assembly has coincident or interfering geometry that may be unsuitable for some rapid prototyping systems." If I save it, then this STL later causes problems when trying to print it.
What can I do? I'd like to be able to print my assemblies.
[Here is a very simple example assembly](https://www.dropbox.com/s/q6fpzxcpwbmb48o/Interference%20test.SLDASM?dl=0) where you can see this phenomenon. Part 1 is just a simple cube, and part 2 is another simple cube that is flush with part 1. | [
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"text": "When saving assembly as part, do not use the save external faces option. Exterior components is best option t... | 2017/09/30 | [
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