qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
5,312 | I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change.
As an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other.
Maybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish.
My setup is:
* Anet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8
* Bed auto leveling before each print
* Slic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018)
* PETG from Das Filament
I tried disabling all "retract" settings but the issue persists.
I'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure.
Any opinion is welcome! | [
{
"answer_id": 5313,
"author": "Sean Houlihane",
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"text": "If you think it is a slicing problem, look at the G-code. You might want to arrange for the infill to be ort... | 2018/01/20 | [
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5,318 | I am trying to print a model that requires support material to be on the first layer, what is the best way to accomplish this? I am currently using Cura. It seems that the support material is too flaky. I have the infill for the support at around 8% | [
{
"answer_id": 5320,
"author": "Mick",
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"text": "I cannot comment on your infill percentage for supports, since I never use them. In any case, increasing the infill ma... | 2018/01/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5318",
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5,322 | I am looking for a plastic which is transparent to radio waves. I want to place my transmitter in a cylinder. That cylinder would be placed in a big RC plane ( whose body is made up of cardboard). I want the plane to be both telemetry, and RC controlled. That cylinder should allow the signals, should be strong and light.
So which material would you suggest and is that material easy to do 3d print? | [
{
"answer_id": 5326,
"author": "mac",
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"selected": false,
"text": "For the kind of application you are looking for, transparency to radio signal shouldn't really be an issue, so you are ... | 2018/01/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5322",
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5,332 | Dear experts and 3D printer users;
I am a beginner in 3D printing field. I read couple of answers in forums and i cannot find exact answer to my problem.
Printing quality dropped when i try to write vertical axis (i mean, columns). There is no problem in horizontal axis.
My column width must be 0.5 mm, and printer nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. I think I should write 0.5 mm column with 0.4 mm nozzle with ease.
I added messy structure to this post and you can find writing details below. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbBo0.jpg)
What do you think? What is your suggestion to overcome this problem?
Printer:Ultimaker 3,
Slicer:Cura,
Printing Details;
Nozzle diameter:0.4 mm,
Profile:Fine 0.1 mm,
Layer height:0.1 mm,
Wall thickness:1 mm,
Top bottom thickness:1 mm,
Infill density: 100 %,
Gradual infill steps:0,
Printing Temp:240 C,
Build plate Temp:65 C,
Diameter: 2.85 mm,
Dimensions of the material:10X10X5 mm | [
{
"answer_id": 5334,
"author": "Mick",
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"text": "You cannot hope to print 0.5mm columns with a 0.4mm print head successfully using an FDM printer. Basically, you are a... | 2018/01/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5332",
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5,333 | Anet A8 printer, Github Marlin, Repetier Host, Cura slicer
Just setting up printer and printed 20mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. X,Y,Z & E not too far off but not quite right (centre hole was oval not round) X19.5mm, Y19.5mm & Z20mm.
Followed Youtube calibration help and updated firmware to Marlin. I ran several iterations of request travel, measure result and tweek stepper settings (M501,M92xxxx, M500) Live Die Repeat...
When I now print the calibration cube I get X25mm, Y20mm & Z19.5mm.
Could the issue be with the firmare being upgraded to Marlin? The cube was sliced by Cura and I have used the same file for all of the prints. When I stop the print and ask Repetier to move the steppers the distance is as they should be for a 100mm travel. | [
{
"answer_id": 5365,
"author": "Gekko09",
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"text": "There could be a number of issues causing this.\n\nSince you just set it up here is a list of questions for you to ... | 2018/01/23 | [
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5,338 | I have been playing around with the bed for a while and I still can't get the first layer to stick properly. I think I am getting the bed leveled good, I use the paper method. But yet I find myself with the filament lifting off and getting pulled away with the nozzle or some balling in rare situations.
I use masking tape, which I found for $3 at Dollar general. I heard something about shine being a factor, but why is that important? And is more expensive masking tape worth it? I don't want to buy it because I would hate for it to tear when I take off a print.
I also use some glue stick, which seems to sometimes not help, almost like it doesn't allow the filament to stick. I don't think I was adding too much, maybe I was. But is glue stick needed? Does it really make that much of a difference?
So other than that I don't know what to try. I can't get the first layer to work properly. Maybe it is my speed, what is a good speed to print at for the first layer, I am doing 60 mm/s, just like the rest of my print.
Any advice from there with first layers would be great. I am tired of wasting time and filament over failed first layers. But when I do get the first layer done, the second+ layers all work fine, no issues.
Here are the specs of my printer, that should be helpful for people:
* Printer --> Anet A6
* Print area --> 220 x 220 mm
* Heated bed? --> Yes
* Bed temp --> 50°C
* I use masking tape on bed
* nozzle dia. --> 0.4mm
* Nozzle temp --> 210°C
* Print speed --> 60 mm
* Material of choice --> PLA
* Fan is on after 3 layers
I think that covers everything, Let me know if I need to add anything else. | [
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"answer_id": 5340,
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"text": "Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking t... | 2018/01/24 | [
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5,341 | I am using python 3.6 with pySerial library to connect to the Hyrel System 30M 3D Printer. I am able to read the data from the device but unable to write any commands to it
Here is the code:
```
ser = serial.Serial()
ser.port = 'COM4'
ser.baudrate = 38400
out = ser.readline()
ser.write(b'M106 T14 S30\n') %This is the command to turn on the fan at 30% power
```
Can somebody suggest me how to write commands to printer through python | [
{
"answer_id": 5343,
"author": "mac",
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"text": "If the one in your question is your *complete* code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output f... | 2018/01/24 | [
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5,346 | 
This is what is happening to my motor. Any suggestions would help.
1. I have tried adjusting the trimpot.
2. Rewire the connector to match the one on the motherboard.
3. Anything else I found on the internet. | [
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"text": "If the one in your question is your *complete* code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output f... | 2018/01/25 | [
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5,351 | I would like to ask this in more of a general sense than anything, just for people to make note.
I am printing out things for people and some files have some edges hanging out the side. I always worry, since it is printing in mid air, that it would screw up the print. But I was able to go, maybe 1mm(I am not to good with metric when it comes to guessing). My question is, how far at 90\* from a wall can a printer pull off before it is necessary to have support? This would help me when slicing up files. | [
{
"answer_id": 5353,
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"text": "It is typical for a 3D printer to be able to manage one-half the width of the nozzle for unsupported layer printin... | 2018/01/26 | [
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5,372 | I recently changed filament and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. It's like droplets are forming on the surface (finished item + 3 undersides):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgPyl.jpg)
The final part is (for me) okay but I'd like to get rid of those pesky 'drops'.
**As the defect is quite stable and quite recognizable and it happens all the time, I bet somebody more experienced than me knows what's going on!**
Info:
I'm using a 1 week old eSun filament, a E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm on my scratch CoreXY printer, short Bowden direct drive, Repetier, Marlin, Linear advance (M900 K60 so quite low).
The print is done using a 0.4mm diameter nozzle at 0.2mm height at:
50°C(122°F) heat-bed and 214°C(417°C) hot-end for first layer, then lower a bit to
40°C(104°F) heat-bed and 211°C(412°F) hot-end.
I use Blue-painter tape.
Worked perfectly well with my black eSun and my white eSun.
**What's my problem?**
Thank you all!
[Edit]
Tried about everything (more temp, less temp, fan on item, more / less bed temp, underextrude, moving around z delta, removing linear advance, radically lowering speed) but the only thing that worked about okay (problem was quite reduced but didn't go away totally) was to bump up the layer thickness to 0.3mm
[Edit 2] Finally it seems it was, as it usually is, a conjuncture of several problems that I will list here:
* The bed was not perfectly flat
* The heatbed moved/bended when going from a hot first layer to a colder second (and on) layer
* Maybe the speed was a bit high for the first layer (25mm/s)
I fixed this by installing a borosilicate glass bed on top of the heat bed which ensures a perfect flatness.
I had to change my inductive sensor to an 8mm one (insteéad of the 4mm I had previously added) to make this function. I think it is not as good as it can be as it detects the heatbed under the glass (which is not perfectly flat), but it's enough for now. I'm thinking about how to make the glass conductive, like aluminium or something, but that's for another day/post.
I also put blue tape on the glass because the first layer was tricky. This might be because the inductive sensor doesn't do its job that well (see above).
Heatbed temperature for first layer: 70°C
Extruder temperature anywhere from 190°C to 220°C works fine, that was not the problem, or it is no longer a problem.
I also lowered the first layer speed to 20mm/s because the first layer didn't stick easily directly onto the glass, with blue painters tape it sticks even too much so I'll try higher speeds. It did mitigate problems though so it might be a path to try if you run into similar problems.
And now it seems that it works even amazingly well, I just have to print something really big to see!
---------------Old:
Moving z up made spaghetti :-) and different temperatures made quite extreme warping:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eV7UJ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VeCT.jpg) | [
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"text": "Mine is more of an educated guess than a definitive diagnosis, but **it looks to me like if your printer may be overext... | 2018/01/30 | [
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5,382 | Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware.
I've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal.
[How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3112/how-to-directly-send-g-code-to-printer-from-a-linux-terminal)
My first attempt to get access to low-level printer interface looked like that:
```
./baud.py <> /dev/ttyACM0 250000
tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &
cat > /dev/ttyACM0
```
First it was fine: i've entered g-code, printer executed it and returned an ok message into my terminal.
Then i've turned the printer off and on again and repeated the whole process, but now `tail -f` didn't output anything and printer LCD displayed garbage in the status line after I ran the command.
I've also noticed that printer controller reboots every time the serial port is accessed, not sure if it happened in the first time when everything worked well.
The output of `cat /dev/ttyACM0` after baud setting is a bit weird too - and there's garbage in the status line instead of standard "%printername% ready" as well:
```
start
echo:Marlin1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: May 20 2017 18:12:04 | Author: (none, default config)
Compiled: May 20 2017
echo: Free Memory: 3763 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z3200.00 E97.94
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X50.00 Y50.00 Z2.50 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo: M201 X750 Y750 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo: M204 S500.00 T500.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z1.00 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo:SD init fail
echo:Unknown command: "starto"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "SD init failstartuthor"
ok
echo:Unknown command: " (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "Unknown command"
ok
echo:Unknown command: " "starto"own comm"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "PID settings"
ok
echo:Unknown command: "okechecho"
ok
```
The "SD init fail" line and everything after it appears when sensor data appears on the LCD, there's a delay before that during which the LCD is empty.
If you send commands to printer using something like `echo "G0 X10" > /dev/ttyACM0`, it executes them only on next serial port accessing (and therefore reboot) - or doesn't execute at all.
The interesting part is that Cura "Monitor" tab can actually manipulate the caret and the Cura itself can print things in general - but i want to be able to do it manually. | [
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"text": "Mine is a wild guess, but judging from:\n\n```\necho:Unknown command: \"starto\"\nok\necho:Unknown command: \"SD init f... | 2018/02/02 | [
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5,389 | I am printing some minion chess pieces for my teacher at school and on every model I have found something called "ghosting", or at least I heard that is what it is called. For example there is a strap on the model for the pants. And going left and right there is very shallow "straps" or something happening.
I am interested to know what causes this to happen and how to fix it. It is not super bad, but would be nice to fix. | [
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"answer_id": 5393,
"author": "mac",
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"selected": true,
"text": "**Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the printer that are induced by rapid changes of directi... | 2018/02/03 | [
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5,391 | Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extrusion temperature is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temperature never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints.
The bed temperature is fine.
Any suggestions on how to fix? | [
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"answer_id": 5394,
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"text": "Two common problems to look out for in this situation:\n\n* Make sure that your **part fan** (the fan that is supposed ... | 2018/02/03 | [
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5,395 | I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer.
I'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament.
The [LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-dual-extruder-v3-tool-head) says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in.
Here is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs.
If you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at [LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-aerostruder-tool-head) for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head?
If you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use. | [
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"answer_id": 5396,
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"text": "Not an expert by any means but I can’t see any reason you couldn’t use one half of a dual extruder. The benefits... | 2018/02/04 | [
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5,402 | I saw an extruder mod on Amazon *"EAONE 2 Pcs PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) with 4 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD)"*
Anybody know how this is fitted? Is it simply tapping the feed hole on the top? | [
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"selected": true,
"text": "Is [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/EAONE-Teflon-Fittings-Printer-Filament/dp/B077X6FW97) what you are referring to?\n\nI... | 2018/02/05 | [
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5,413 | I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line. | [
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"text": "I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print tha... | 2018/02/06 | [
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5,414 | I have a homemade 3D printer running on ramps 1.4
When i start a new print and the hotend reaches melting point of PLA, the PLA start coming out of the hotend.
This goes on for as long as the temperature is kept above melting point, without moving the extrusion gear.
The extruder is a bowden type.
Hotend is a J-head.
I am currently using simplify if that makes any difference regarding configuration.
Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening? | [
{
"answer_id": 5417,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
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"selected": false,
"text": "Does it really go on for more than a minute or so? You can't get filament from nowhere, so if the feed gear i... | 2018/02/06 | [
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"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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5,418 | I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA.
Can anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that? | [
{
"answer_id": 5421,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
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"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I've been a fan of epoxies for unusual adhesion problems. I found on [Amazon a product with titanium](https://rads... | 2018/02/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5418",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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5,430 | I read that the best way of removing ABS was to let the temperature at the hot end to drop to around 190deg c then a sharp pull. This worked really well. I am trying to print with PLA but no matter what temperature I drop the hot end to I get left with a length of PLA in the feeder tube. OK I can heat the hot end and poke the excess down with a wire but that is a pain. I think the technique is right but the temperature is wrong. Any help great fully appreciated. | [
{
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"selected": false,
"text": "One resource you can use is called the [nylon cleaning method](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-... | 2018/02/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5430",
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5,432 | Some filaments suggest "reducing cross-sectional area" of the print. Is this referring to the vertical plane or horizontal plane? In other words, if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed? | [
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"text": "One resource you can use is called the [nylon cleaning method](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-... | 2018/02/08 | [
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5,445 | I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides.
Is there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it? | [
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"text": "Yes, there is a \"select\" tool in the toolbar next to \"make\". You can use select filters to select components, bodi... | 2018/02/09 | [
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5,447 | When using `G1` command in G-code, what is the difference between `Z`- axis and `E`- axis?
I see all `E`, `F` and `Z` in
```
G1 Z0.350 F7800.000
G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000
G92 E0
G1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000
G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000
``` | [
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"text": "z-axis refers typically to vertical movement\n\nF references are feed rates/movement rates\n\nE references are for... | 2018/02/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5447",
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5,451 | I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? Or perhaps the difference is negligible?
Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft? | [
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"text": "I can't address polycarbonate specifically, but can provide a general overview of the higher temperature filament ... | 2018/02/10 | [
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5,461 | That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.
That's what I was trying to print:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1V22.jpg)
and that's what I've got.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPEfT.jpg)
Here you have a video of the impression. [it is a G2S pro rostock mini](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdBQL44R3M) | [
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"text": "From the video it is very clear there is **a major problem with bed adhesion**.\n\nIt also looks like you are printing o... | 2018/02/10 | [
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5,465 | I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality? | [
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"text": "> \n> The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend\n> \n> \n> \n\n**Unless yo... | 2018/02/11 | [
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5,474 | I had a problem with my nozzle on my homemade printer. The problem was that the nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter wasn't putting out any plastic. I replaced the nozzle with a 0.2 mm one and now the bottom of my model is looking like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFSHV.jpg)
I tried to change flow,temperatures and speed.
But nothing helped it keeps making this waves. At the old 0.4 mm nozzle there everything was okay. | [
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"text": "Without more detail is difficult to say with certainty what the *root* cause of the problem is, but it looks like **too... | 2018/02/12 | [
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5,481 | Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology
On a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0PE.jpg) | [
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"text": "Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick t... | 2018/02/12 | [
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5,486 | Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75 % of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50 °C, but it was at 18 °C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try).
I want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed.
Please note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on)
Upon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0 °C, when plugged in it went to 18 °C.
Is it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard? | [
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"text": "This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cab... | 2018/02/13 | [
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5,490 | I recently rebuilt my A8 printer to have a metal frame and replaced the board with a GT2560 reva+. I'm having problems with the temp readings from both my hotend and hotbed. Using marlin 1.1x and Its possible I have something configured incorrectly. I can get successful prints with good quality but sometimes I get thermal runaway during a print.
Both cold and at temp (200c) have fairly large temp spikes. I didn't have this problem with my old board. I had much smoother temp curves. I'm using the default PID values for Ultimaker Kp 22.2, Ki 1.08, Kd 144.
I have tried to use PID autotune but get drastically different values every time I run it and using the results gave worse results (sometimes giving a heating error during the autotune). I checked all the wiring and nothing looks frayed or damaged.
First pic is cold temps. Second is trying to do a PID tune. Third and fourth are during a print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H8KC.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpW8E.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9bU0.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwyP4.png) | [
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"text": "I had a similar problem and there could be three reasons(if the connections are ok):\n\n* thin wires to the hotend... | 2018/02/13 | [
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5,492 | Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print.
I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print. | [
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"text": "Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to m... | 2018/02/14 | [
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5,500 | While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand? | [
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"text": "Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand... | 2018/02/15 | [
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5,508 | I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing.
After calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap.
Why am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here? | [
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"text": "That is very bizarre. Since GCODE describe each movement of the printing head (so, the printer does not get to decide a... | 2018/02/18 | [
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5,519 | As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home position and the PINDA probe is too far out over the heatbed so it doesn't detect the printing surface. What is the simplest method of moving the home position so that the printer can be properly calibrated?
UPDATE:
I am planning on removing the heatbed and placing spacers that will move the printing surface 17mm forward. This should then prevent the printer losing any printing area and hopefully prevents me having to edit any code. Can anyone see any problems with this I'm overlooking?
The simplest thing to do would be to move extruder 17mm closer to be the same as the original printer but my deadline is fast approaching and I haven't time for a redesign that large. | [
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"text": "Consider the original installation with the orientation of the Pinda probe to the nozzle. Let's say for argument's... | 2018/02/20 | [
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5,527 | Is the firts time that I saw this movement after the printing has finishig and causes the nozzle crashes to the printed part and I noticed due the part is 14x8 and the nozzle is to near and below to the border of the shape. I supposed that some scripts has changed but, seems to be everything ok.
this is the end script:
```
G92 E0
G1 E-1.5000 F1800
; layer end
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G28 X0 ; home X axis
M84 ; disable motors
; Build Summary
; Build time: 3 hours 9 minutes
; Filament length: 12689.1 mm (12.69 m)
; Plastic volume: 30520.78 mm^3 (30.52 cc)
; Plastic weight: 38.15 g (0.08 lb)
```
Z axis moves down 4mm after finishing going to X0, why? I don't want the nozzle crashes the part on going to zero. | [
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"text": "You can use:\n\n```\nG91\nG1 Z10\n\n```\n\n`G91` make the printer use ralative positioning, while `G1 Z10` would move th... | 2018/02/21 | [
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5,530 | Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own?
I am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them.
I do that by turning off the power supply.
I haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me. | [
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"text": "Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 ([datasheet](https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_... | 2018/02/22 | [
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5,535 | I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1st print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine.
Does anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine? | [
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"text": "Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 ([datasheet](https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_... | 2018/02/23 | [
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5,537 | What is the power consumption of your heatbed (size) and hotend (model)?
I want to verify that it is possible to use a battery to power them. | [
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"text": "I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is... | 2018/02/23 | [
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5,541 | Is it possible to design a heat block without cartridge heater?
My idea is to build a very small heat block to increase/decrease the heat as fast as possible. The resistance of the heat block will be used. The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)? | [
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"text": "I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is... | 2018/02/23 | [
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5,544 | Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies?
I have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file. If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files? | [
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"text": "I've been able to manipulate an STL file using the hobbyist version (free) of Fusion 360. There's a series of step... | 2018/02/23 | [
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5,558 | I am having problems with my tevo tarantula large bed 12Volt power supply, I am getting the thermal protection message when heating my bed with target temperature set to 115 degrees.
The process slows down after reaching 90.
I changed merlin settings to trigger thermal shutdown after 5minutes/2degrees and added a cover to the printer, so getting now 103 degrees (usually shutdown was at 100/101).
link to a video showing panel: <https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3D0P.jpg) | [
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"text": "You need to increase the power of the heated bed. With a given amount of power, there is an upper limit to th... | 2018/02/26 | [
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5,575 | I have modified my Prusa i3 MK2 printer so that the existing extruder motor has now been attached to a 5mm lead screw with a 1mm pitch. What is the easiest way to control the extruding of the printer now.
For example is it possible to change the settings in slic3er at all for the extruder? or would I have to download and edit the marlin firmware? | [
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"text": "The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (pri... | 2018/02/28 | [
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5,579 | Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5" x 6.5").
Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller? | [
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"text": "The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (pri... | 2018/03/01 | [
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5,582 | This print failed a couple of hours in. I was wondering if the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts (similarly the previous print which was OK) might have contributed to the clog, or if it's just bad luck? To be clear, the surface has lots of short dead-end, not just a wiggly perimeter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iymMN.jpg)
The filament seemed to have stopped moving, and was cut through by the drive gear.
This was a genuine Titan Aero extruder, 0.4mm nozzle, 215C (on an Anet a8 printer) | [
{
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"text": "Reading your question it's not clear to me if you are referring to *filament retraction* (which is a configurable settin... | 2018/03/03 | [
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5,585 | After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US? | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "I am afraid unless you are available to accept the mark-up, you won't find a *reputable seller* other than in mainland ... | 2018/03/04 | [
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5,589 | I am building a Prusa i3 MK2S ([Dolly](https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/)). I find it very difficult to find M5 rods for the Z axis, I have an M8 lead screw with 8 mm lead, So I thought since M8 is widely available online I could just use them instead of M5. What do you think about it? What should I keep in mind? | [
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"text": "Amazon has a few hundred M5 rods listed for sale, so I don't know where or what you've been looking through. ... | 2018/03/05 | [
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5,596 | I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:
Printer: Anycubic i3 mega
Slicer: Cura 3.2.1
Printer chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, *Gcode flavor* changed to *RepRap*
Cura Profile: *Fine*, "Outer before inner walls" enabled
What might be the reason? | [
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"text": "Our local library has a genuine Prosi i3 Mk2.5 that recently had this problem. Because of the number of fingers en... | 2018/03/06 | [
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5,603 | One of the CAD programs I use is called [TinkerCAD](http://www.tinkercad.com), which lets you export your design in either STL or OBJ form. What is the difference between these two file types? And which one is better to use? | [
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"text": "**STL is the *de facto* standard in consumer-grade 3D printing**. It is a bare-bone format that describes the shape of t... | 2018/03/08 | [
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5,611 | This question is similar:
[Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/156/are-there-biocompatible-materials-available-to-the-general-public)
But appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted.
Are any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe.
Highly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications.
I've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is "non-biodegradable", but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of.
I found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383
I found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y
I found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331
By extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)?
I'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as "too broad"). | [
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"text": "Perhaps more than biocompatible, which generally refers to a material that does not illicit a harmful inflammatory r... | 2018/03/09 | [
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5,618 | I have this [fan model](https://www.tme.eu/en/details/mf50151vx-a99/dc12v-fans/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/), it is a SUNON model number [MF50151VX-B00U-A99](https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/b30ea71fee61d11101012e50df6ac0ad/MF50151VX-A99-DTE.pdf)
and it is a blower type.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg)
When the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise.
I think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions.
I think the noise is coming from the axial of the fan because I think there is a clearance in the axial for moving up and down.
When I put my finger on the fan body(the rotating part) the noise stop!
**My question, What type of fans suitable for rapid movement and rapid direction change? and if this is not the problem what is the problem in my situation?**
I have tried searching but I can really find a direct answer! | [
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"text": "As discussed in the comments...\n\nThe problem with the fan seems to be its flimsy attachment to the printer head. The f... | 2018/03/11 | [
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5,621 | About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260 °C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240 °C.
This is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200 °C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646 °C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings.
What could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge? | [
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"text": "This can come from several sources:\n\nHardware\n========\n\nThe thermistor or its connections might be dama... | 2018/03/12 | [
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5,623 | I'm about to build a [Prusa i3 dolly](https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/). I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6.
What is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)? | [
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"text": "This can come from several sources:\n\nHardware\n========\n\nThe thermistor or its connections might be dama... | 2018/03/12 | [
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5,625 | So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small "test print" on? | [
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"text": "I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co... | 2018/03/12 | [
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5,637 | We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed "load filament", it didn't make anything.
Often after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work.
Sometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem. | [
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"text": "First make sure that the hotend is hot enough.\nSecond you need to check your extruder if it is clean.\nThird try... | 2018/03/15 | [
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5,641 | I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped.
Does anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws? | [
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"text": "I don't own the printer, but the [intertubes](https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32827343801.html) identify it as a \"TR8X8 ... | 2018/03/17 | [
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5,645 | I am attempting to print the Benchy boat but every attempt so far has been unsuccessful. The print has a sort of slope/blob on the nose of the boat, which emerges after the first 30 layers.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vx2cM.jpg)
Here you can see the front of the boat already arching up:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9Z6A.jpg)
I have tried decreasing speed to 40 mm/s but the issue remains.
**Printer**: Geetech Prusa I3 Pro B
XY Accelleration: 1000 mm/s2
XY Jerk: 20 mm/s
Retraction Accelleration: 2000 mm/s2
Extruder Jerk: 5 mm/s
Printing Speed: 50 mm/s
Travel Speed: 120 mm/s
Layer Height: 0.1 mm
Infill: 60% (Lines)
Material: PLA, 200 °C, 1.75mm filament, retraction enabled. | [
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"text": "The lines along the length of the boat also appear to be wobbling, can you confirm this? Have you used this material... | 2018/03/17 | [
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5,649 | I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall.
I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a "100K NTC Thermistor", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!!
Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside.
Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type?
[Documentation for MK8](http://www.geeetech.com/assembled-mk8-extruder-p-857.html) | [
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"text": "A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is ... | 2018/03/18 | [
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5,660 | I am building a [dolly](https://andypi.co.uk/2017/09/17/dolly-build-notes-prusa-i3-mk2-clone-3d-printer/) and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use.
Should I go for M8 or M12 and 5 V or 6-36 V?
What should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8 mm. Which one should I select? | [
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"text": "Tomas Sanladerer has produced a nice video on this topic: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY>\n\n@ 7:31 you ... | 2018/03/21 | [
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5,664 | I re-read my question and realized I made a confusing one, so I am rewording a LOT.
So the software I use is Craftware. When it comes to the first layer I have it set to .25mm, with the following layers being whatever I specify otherwise. And because of this there shouldn't be a difference with the first layer even though I choose different layer heights based on the project. But for some reason it is not the case.
When printing .2mm layer height everything works great. The print adheres amazing, the nozzle is at a really good height. Everything simply works.
When printing .1mm the first layer does not stick. A lot less plastic is coming out the nozzle. And it is a disaster. Have tried increasing the amount of flow a bit, but didn't help (I might need to raise it a lot more)
So I don't understand what is going wrong. The first layer is supposed to be set at .25mm no matter what the layer height is otherwise. What do I need to do or look at? | [
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"text": "You have asked several questions here. \n\n\"why is first layer set to 0.25\" -- check the gcode file, openin... | 2018/03/21 | [
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5,666 | Harking back to the days of "singing disk drives," I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord. So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier). | [
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"text": "Yes, it has been done before, see [here](https://github.com/forflo/gCodeMusic) and [here.](https://github.com/yeokm1/mid... | 2018/03/21 | [
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5,669 | I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.
What I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png)
And this should be the front view of the counter part:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png)
So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?
What hardware and material should I use to do this?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry for bad english, I hope you understand!
**EDIT:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png)
(6mm is the depth of the hole) | [
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5,673 | I've built and done some simple tests on a TEVO Tarantula but I've noticed some pretty dramatic under extrusions.
My equipment:
* TEVO Tarantula;
* Jim Brown's easy config fork of Marlin;
* Titan extruder (came with printer).
I've updated the firmware with the 400 steps as advised and calibrated the extrusion with the 100 mm method:
* When I run the calibration with the Titan extruder, *only* the 400 steps is fine and works as expected;
* When I connect the Bowden tube to the hotend and calibrate (at 200, 225 and 250°C), I see only ~50 mm of extrusion.
I've disassemble the hot end, changed filament and I can't see any signs of blockage. The Bowden tube in the hotend is not showing any signs of melting etc. and it is pushed all the way down to the hotend, as per the instructions.
So, what's going with this? | [
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5,674 | Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light?
I wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process. | [
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"text": "This is more of a Chemistry question, but seeing as we love 3D printing with exotics, here are a few.\n\n[To... | 2018/03/23 | [
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5,686 | Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help? | [
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"text": "The clicking you are hearing is either the stepper motor skipping steps or the hobbed gear losing grip on the filament.... | 2018/03/24 | [
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5,689 | It's my first time printing in vase mode, and I noticed my printer underextruding badly. The settings have not been changed from default vase mode settings in slicer, and earlier I was printing non-vase mode and the prints came out fine. Layer height is 0.2 mm and perimeter width is 0.3 mm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXiKt.jpg "Under extrusion #1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCy5X.jpg "Under extrusion #2") | [
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"text": "Finding the cause of under-extrusion is very hard as a lot of parameters of the print process can influence this. The... | 2018/03/26 | [
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5,695 | <https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2>
I tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly.
Some Info:
* Marlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both)
* Robotdyn RAMPS 1.4
* 0.9 angle stepper motors
* DRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref
* Anet A2 Plus stock for all the rest | [
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"text": "As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed.\nas per Marlin, the homing for X sh... | 2018/03/26 | [
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5,697 | I'm looking for suggestions for 3D design software which support designing multi-material parts.
I will be printing on a multi-extruder machine based on RepRap firmware. The printer will handle the files when given a proper g-code file. Slic3r will produce a proper g-code file given the right input. STL seems to be single-material, so I am looking for something like AMF files, or any alternative.
My question is, what is available for 3D design software which will produce a geometry file which slic3r (or some other slicing software) will properly process? I'm not asking for opinions on which software is best.
I believe this is my first question in any StackExchange forum, so if I have trespassed on community standards, it was not my intention. | [
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"text": "You do not necessarily need a specific design tool, you can use any tool you want to create your multiple material pr... | 2018/03/26 | [
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5,706 | I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it.
First the issue:[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg)
This shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg)
This is how the print looks when it fails:[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg)
I have tried the following:
- Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it.
- Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.)
- Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through.
- Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.)
- Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together.
I have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things.
I have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options. | [
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5,710 | I have been searching around on google and not found any answers to this dilemma. I am using a Prusa I3 printer with PLA, trying to print horseshoes for the company I work for. They are for model horses, so quality is fairly important. I seem to have gotten all the settings dialed in just the way I want them and for the most part, the prints come out fine. There is however one annoying thing that keeps happening. When the filament is going around the curve of the top of the horseshoe on layers beyond the first, the filament does not follow the curves of the first layer. But its not every time. It seems like it is just the 2nd or 3rd Layers that are doing it. I have adjusted the flow rate, the speed, the layer height, temperature, and nothing seems to get rid of this irksome issues. I can of course provide more in depth details, and am including a pic of what i am getting. Any Ideas?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vr1tx.jpg) | [
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"text": "It could very well be that your print speed is too high (starting from the 2nd layer) for the motors to keep up comf... | 2018/03/27 | [
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5,719 | I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print.
I am printing on a genuine Prosi i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210 °C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60 °C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prosi Control. Settings: 0.3 mm layers, 30 % infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a *fraction* too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well)
After it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the "actual" layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of "squeeze out" when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture).
Then, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess.
What appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting "ruffled up", or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues.
Failed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of "fine" support material that sort of survived.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKa4E.jpg)
Close up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEmXD.jpg)
Slicing in Prosi control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMFL5.png)
Close up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4belv.png) | [
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5,724 | I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3" x 6" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.
I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).
Does this sound like a sound plan? | [
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5,736 | I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta
The conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try
* a razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board
* using no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself
* it is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun
* when scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA)
What’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin | [
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"text": "Based on your description \"it is very thin\" about the skirt, and by the other characteristics you've provided, I... | 2018/03/31 | [
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5,743 | Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “*touching buildplate*” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “*everywhere*” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate.
I have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4 mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface? | [
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"text": "> \n> Is there a software that will enable this?\n> \n> \n> \n\nYes, as of Ultimaker Cura 3.3 Beta, Ultimaker Cura all... | 2018/04/02 | [
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5,748 | For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you **could** use/do the following:
* Create G-code using a program of your choice.
* Load it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL).
* Pass it into an Arduino with GRBL.
* The arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield.
* The drivers will control the steppers.
If you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs?
EDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc. | [
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5,756 | I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works.
I discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired.
I looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything.
Is there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner? | [
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5,757 | How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended? | [
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5,760 | I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them!
* Is this a nice to have or must have feature?
* Are there any downsides to heated beds? | [
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"text": "It can help with bed adhesion. However, most 3D printing plastics will warp without a heated bed (since they shrink as... | 2018/04/06 | [
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5,762 | I want to run two stepper motors using Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. But, somehow I burned the Arduino while I was connecting the motor and plugging the board to the computer.
Can I plug external power supply and USB connection to the computer at the same time?
### Additional info from comments
I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Polulo red stepper drivers and Arduino Mega R3. I am only using two Nema 17 stepper motors and not using any hotbed or anything else other than the two stepper motors for the x and y axes. I am feeding 11.9 V supply to the RAMPS board. When powered on, can I plug the USB to my computer?
Suppose I have connected two motors on the X and Y outputs of the RAMPS, and the external power supply is on, then can I connect my Arduino to my PC using USB? Will it burn my board or not?
My only trouble is that when the board is on load, connecting the USB to computer motors would take power by Arduino pins instead of the RAMPS external supply. | [
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5,765 | I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a [Keenovo silicone heater](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400X400mm-1200W-220V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-Pad-for-Huge-Mega-Cube-3D/32550597606.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Io1mMV)
It is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use.
I also bought a [Crydom D2450](http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/series-1-240-ac-panel-mount.pdf) SSR.
Could someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe?
Do I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg) | [
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5,768 | With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation? | [
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"text": "There are some contradicting sources out there on whether plastics, especially ABS, have toxic fumes. It is w... | 2018/04/06 | [
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5,778 | Recently I noticed that Cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my TEVO Tarantula with Marlin firmware.
The time difference is about 15 %, at requested 50 mm/s printing speed.
**How could I verify real printing speed?** | [
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"text": "**Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer**.\n\nSlicers typically compute th... | 2018/04/07 | [
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5,798 | I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board?
I'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses. | [
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"text": "**Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer**.\n\nSlicers typically compute th... | 2018/04/11 | [
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5,800 | Note: I have extended my question as some of you mentioned that the question is not clear.
I am using a RAMPS 1.4 board with an Arduino mega 2560. I need to drive a stepper motor as an extruder using either E0 or E1. I am using Repetier-Firmware and can drive the extruder (stepper motor) using the E0 (RAMPS 1.4).
Now for my application, I need to make sure that the extruder is in home position before it starts to drive for the very first time. I am trying to use a switch to connect to the end stop and perform this homing operation. I can do this for X, Y, and Z axes. I was wondering how (h/w connections and firmware modification) can I do it for the extruder? | [
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"text": "**The edited question** appears to mention that **the actual extruders of the print head need to home / limit themsel... | 2018/04/12 | [
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5,807 | I would like to be able to add custom commands/script to be executed during a print.
For example I would like to write some software to take a picture check the print hasn't moved off the bead between layers.
Does anyone know if any of the available software/firmware allows custom scripts or calling back to the computer before continuing printing?
I am happy to build/buy a new printer if anyone knows a control board that has this sort of feature. | [
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"text": "One of the solutions could be adding a layer change script (simplifi3d has that out of the box) and then using m... | 2018/04/13 | [
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5,822 | Are these vertical lines described as "banding"?
Would the most likely culprit be the extruder?
FWIW, this was printed in "vase mode".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg) | [
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"text": "Banding usually refers to Z banding and manifests itself in a wavy/non-straight wall in Z direction: \n\n[![Z-banding... | 2018/04/17 | [
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5,835 | I am trying to make stencils of Japanese Kanji characters with my 3D Printer.
I am very new to Autodesk Fusion360 so I am running into some barriers:
1. I am having trouble sketching a rectangle and then a text character and extruding them separately. If I extrude one they both disappear. Therefore I have to sketch one, then extrude, then create the next sketch object.
How can I create both sketches and select different ones to extrude?
2. I am having this basic problem where my stencil has parts that are disconnected (see example below). I've tried sketching lines and thin rectangles to connect the pieces but they both didn't work. I once again can't extrude after it's created.
How can I connect the pieces after extruding? How can I connect them inside a text object?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLaBH.png "Example Kanji Stencil") | [
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5,840 | I have the same problem as [this person](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/tevo-tarantula-owners/forums/general/topic:29448) but I don't have those lines in my `RAMPS.h` file as seen [here](http://joxi.ru/DmBgR75UNe8k52.png).
I've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share. | [
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"text": "the fastest way is to slice using two extruders and assign all print work to E1.\nSet the head offsets to [0,0] ... | 2018/04/19 | [
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5,850 | I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm).
I would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate).
Would it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA.
Would the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses.
Related: <https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows> | [
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5,857 | How does Z offset (`M851`) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the `G29` mesh? or the `G29` value replaces the `M851`?
My printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let `G29` get the mesh offsets and its working good now.
I was looking through Marlin G-code page but couldn't figure out how `G29` affects `M851` or vice-versa.
My setup with level issues:
```
M851 Z0
G28
M211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset
M851 Z-0.59
M500
M211 S1
```
And `G29` before printing. | [
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"text": "`G28` instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis... | 2018/04/21 | [
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5,869 | So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out...
One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a "pause at z-height" feature ("post-processing tool"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make).
My one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what "60 degrees Celsius" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good.
On the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a "roof" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened.
**Does anyone have any experience doing this?
Is there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think?
Am I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion?
Anyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?**
Any more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this?
A more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any. | [
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"text": "I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that ... | 2018/04/24 | [
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5,874 | I'm thinking about building my own 3D printer/Laser Engraver/CNC. Since all use a standard Cartesian axis I wanted to be able to swap out tool heads depending on the purpose. I have everything thought out except the coding aspect of the project.
I currently own a 3D printer and am familiar with some of the coding aspects, gcode, stepper motor moment, axis zeroing, etc; but if I am to build a 3 axis system how do you go about coding it? Are there programs that automatically calibrate all the motors? Can I take existing 3D printer programs and adjust the stepper motor values and build plate area? or do I have to code a new printing program from scratch that can read gcode? For simplicity lets just talk about the printing aspect of the build as I realize that CNC's and laser engravers work on different vector systems. Thanks :) | [
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"text": "The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type contro... | 2018/04/25 | [
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5,876 | I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head.
I successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh.
I tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction.
However, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it.
Is there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing? | [
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"text": "The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type contro... | 2018/04/25 | [
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5,877 | I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)
Edit: Here's the link to the file
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bInCO.png) | [
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"text": "The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type contro... | 2018/04/26 | [
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5,882 | I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens.
So, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic? | [
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"text": "Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting.\n\nFirst, p... | 2018/04/26 | [
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5,886 | Given a large set of data, I was able to create a 3D graph in Microsoft Excel. How can I create a STL file similar to this graph to create a physical model of this graph?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvJhX.jpg) | [
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5,892 | If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time? | [
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"text": "All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time.\n\n[![Ex... | 2018/04/28 | [
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5,903 | I just changed my nozzle on my Anet A8 after it was fully used up. When I started printing with my new 0.4 mm nozzle (same as before) my [extrusion](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEOul.jpg) was VERY bad and inconsistent, even so bad I couldn't continue printing because it would pull the first layer off.
If I compare it to my [extrusion](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cjuO.jpg) before the nozzle switch, it is really bad, even though I tightened everything as before. I am quite sure it doesn't have to do with adhesion to the heated bed since I use tape with PVA glue.
Any advice on how to remove this under extrusion so I can continue printing?
All the specs:
* 25 mm/s first layer print speed
* 200 °C nozzle
* 60 °C bed
* PLA filament;
* 0.4 mm nozzle size
Let me know if there is anything else you need to know. | [
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"text": "Your good extrusion look also a little bad , and the bad extrusion looks like a big feeding problem. for ... | 2018/05/02 | [
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5,905 | Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg)
The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg)
Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need
In the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current | [
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"text": "Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will ***not*** make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is unde... | 2018/05/02 | [
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5,913 | While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem.
I own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did:
1. I check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually.
2. I checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK.
3. I checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine.
4. I checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not.
It would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands.
After some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way.
What can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible. | [
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"text": "Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will ***not*** make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is unde... | 2018/05/04 | [
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5,921 | My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15).
Is there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything? | [
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"text": "Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperat... | 2018/05/06 | [
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5,935 | I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format.
Suppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so?
My requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time. | [
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"text": "You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a... | 2018/05/07 | [
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