qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
6,602 | Looking in the Cura interface, I can set any whole number 0-100 for the infill percentage. Does Cura have an algorithm to calculate a pattern for any of those possible values, or does it have a few patterns where it selects the closest one? | [
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"text": "From what I can see, the only way to change the pattern is the manual way.\nThere is still an open gate to creat... | 2018/08/08 | [
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6,606 | I've just bought **Anycubic i3 Mega** printer and trying to level it.
So far I've printed test object and 2 others but looks like there are problems with leveling.
I want to make image of 5 small one layer squares(one in each corner and one in center). Looking for recommendations of **simple** software/tutorials/approaches to do it. I tried zbrush but found that it kind of complicated. | [
{
"answer_id": 6609,
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"text": "You are probably looking for something like [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479352):\n\n![leveling print obj... | 2018/08/08 | [
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6,608 | I want to tackle an experiment with the following goal:
>
> Determine the correlations between printing parameters (temperatures,
> speeds, humidity, perimeters, infill, etc.) and tensile strength using
> a specific 3D printer, test specimen, and filament brand/model.
>
>
>
This goal calls for two parts then: a standardized **test procedure** and **test specimen**. For the test procedure, I've been asking myself:
>
> What portable, measurable and roughly consistent tensile strength test
> does not require building a complicated machine, can be performed with
> ready-made tools or machines available at a large hardware store, and
> can be set up within 5 minutes?
>
>
>
I am thinking here about a procedure that lies somewhere between this [hanging scale test](https://youtu.be/CZX8eHC7fws?t=136) and ISO 527. Definitely not using [bare hands](https://youtu.be/R7gpW6aCz0o?t=116) or [pliers](https://youtu.be/bmgSojocJ3c?t=388). Once the procedure is defined, this begs the question:
>
> Is the ISO 3167 multipurpose test specimen an appropriate specimen for
> the test procedure outlined above or are there other specimens that
> are more suitable?
>
>
>
I was thinking that, since the usual filaments have an ultimate strength of around [40-60 MPa](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/), perhaps the "recoil" would be too much and one needs to use a smaller, weaker specimen. | [
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"text": "For these kind of tests you could rely on the [ASTM](https://www.astm.org/) standards. They define test procedures an... | 2018/08/08 | [
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6,618 | I came across this suggestion on the klipper github, <https://www.facebook.com/groups/Hypercube.Evo/permalink/192106034761003/>. In order to reduce the stretching in the bowden tube you can add fiberglass packaging tape lengthwise along the tube. This would decrease the elasticity while still allowing the plastic filament to run through it. Allowing you to reduce the retraction length and have better control over the amount of plastic being extruded.
Is there any reasons that this would not work or actually decrease the performance of the bowden tube? | [
{
"answer_id": 6674,
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"text": "The question seems to be built on a false premise, namely that the major extrude/retract errors in a Bowden d... | 2018/08/09 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6618",
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6,619 | I think it's best that I explain what my issue is before I explain how I arrived here. I have a Tronxy x5s with a stock board that I am repairing for the sake of repairing, even though I know I should probably just spring for a new board. It's the principle of the thing.
* The extruder thermistor accurately reads for a few seconds, and then gives a negative reading as if it's been unplugged.
* I know that this is the same reading of an unplugged thermistor because when you unplug either the extruder or bed thermistor from a known-good port, it gives this same negative reading.
* It is not attached to the original pin. It is attached to a new pin that I moved it to. I cut the old pin off from the thermistor port and soldered the new pin to the traces of the port. Then I changed the pin in the configuration file, and it works, for a while.
* The electronics are messy but sound; I have used my voltmeter to verify connectivity and voltage.
* The thermistor works; it reads a little over 100kΩ in my hot garage and the temperature changes after I put it in my hand for a few minutes. But this temperature change only registers, as explained in the rest, for a few seconds.
* I am sure there's a configuration somewhere in the firmware that I am missing that causes that pin to either go "off" or become disused after a few seconds.
Greater context:
The printer was working great for months, but one day the extruder thermistor shorted so badly that the Analog to Digital pin on the Arduino powering the Melzi board was permanently damaged. The temperature reading consistently stayed at 260 °C, even when unplugged.
I wanted to come up with a repair solution rather than replacing the board (even though I have plans to do that anyway), so I downloaded the datasheet for the Arduino Mega 1248P and looked for other ADC pins I could use. I found that ADC Pin0 was unused on the board, so I thought I'd isolate old pin (ADC Pin 7), solder the trace to the new pin, and change the firmware to reflect the new pin.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nr4D2.jpg "Datasheet pinout")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUuyj.jpg "Photo of trace and isolation")
Then I changed the pin used for that extruder thermistor reading in the `Pins_SANGUINOLOLU_11.h` config file (the old Melzi board for the Tronxy X5s is a Sanguino):
```
// Temperature Sensors
//
#define TEMP_0_PIN 7 // Analog Input (pin 33 extruder)
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 6 // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)
```
Changed to
```
// Temperature Sensors
//
#define TEMP_0_PIN 0 // Analog Input (pin xx extruder)
#define TEMP_BED_PIN 6 // Analog Input (pin 34 bed)
```
I didn't know what "pin 33" was or used to be so I just put xx in the comment.
Anyway, my hardware was good, and my software was supposedly good, so I flashed the new firmware, plugged it in, and turned it on:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrAAq.jpg "Good temperature reading")
Yay! But after a few seconds...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gbrNb.jpg "Bad temperature reading")
Boo. It stops working.
I am sure my connections are solid: I've tested for connectivity and voltage. Both the new port and the heat bed thermistor port get 4.97 volts, so it's not a voltage drop. It's something in the Arduino.
Any ideas? | [
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"text": "Thermal expansion is opening a connection somewhere. It might not be one of your solderings, but if you s... | 2018/08/09 | [
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6,624 | I just received my new Creality Ender 3. I was going through and checking/adjusting everything for alignment, and I noticed that when you "auto home" the print head, the nozzle stops off the front of the print bed by 5-10 mm.
Is that normal?
Is it perhaps by design to allow purging the nozzle without dumping on the bed?
It doesn't appear that there is any way to adjust the Y stop switch without making modifications to it. It also didn't look like there was any easy way to move the bed either. | [
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"text": "Yes, this is the \"intended\" behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly... | 2018/08/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6624",
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6,640 | I bought a buddha statue and I would like to scan it using photogrammetry and publish the result.
**Am I allowed to do that?**
Is this the same like scanning a book and publishing it? Sketchfab on the other hand is full of 3d models of commercial products. | [
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"text": "If the design was made from an artist and is not public domain, than you should not upload that scan without the (w... | 2018/08/12 | [
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6,644 | Cura has a layer view feature that lets you watch a simulation of the extruder head as it lays down material at each layer. Is it possible to get Cura to show a time stamp as it does this? That would let me set reminders to check a print just at certain critical times. | [
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"text": "These estimates tend to be very approximate, even if Cura has the accurate acceleration values for your firm... | 2018/08/13 | [
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6,654 | Creality does offer its firmware on [creality3d.cn](https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001) as .hex files. These are pretty good as backups as one can't alter and destroy them by accident.
But... How do you install them?!
---
This is about installing firmware *directly* and *without* another microcontroller. To use another mictrocontroller is [How to install new firmware via a Microcontroller?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685) | [
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"text": "Creality also does provide an installation PDF. The process they propose is twofold and might need different settings ... | 2018/08/13 | [
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6,659 | Up till now, I've tended to scale my first layer according to the print quality, so a 0.12 mm first layer for a 0.08 mm print, and 0.28 mm for a 0.2 mm print.
After changing to a PLA which isn't sticking well, I'm wondering if the first layer is best determined by the printer/tolerance/material, rather than the overall print quality settings. Am I going to get more predictable results if I stick to a 0.12 mm first layer regardless? This is with a 0.4 mm nozzle on an Anet-A8. | [
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"text": "Default settings for first layer height in Slic3r Prusa Edition print profiles regardless layer height is 0.2 mm.\n\nIf you... | 2018/08/13 | [
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6,661 | I would love to start a small engraving business without having to purchase expensive hardware.
Using scrap parts at home, or parts from broken CD players, are there any ways to make a laser engraver at home? My cousin managed to make one of his own from scraps. | [
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"text": "I have a printer and a diode laser head which will etch aluminum for under $4k, but you're going to have to manage pot... | 2018/08/13 | [
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6,664 | I got my Ender 3 a couple weeks ago. Within a couple days of test prints, I was able to get it working pretty well. Prints looked great. However, I installed [a more permanent solution to my X-Gantry binding issues](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2959991) and now print quality is down again.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5yjv.jpg)
The bottom .25" of the calibration part looks absolutely terrible, with hideous layer separation issues, while the upper .75" looks flawless. I have little idea what could be causing this issue.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5lab.jpg)
The only possible failure mode I can think of is that the bed isn't the right distance from the print head, but even fiddling with the knobs doesn't yield any better print quality than the print on the right of the first image. What can I do?
I slice with Cura and can make my profile available if it would be useful. | [
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"text": "Well, you have several problems with your print. One that could be affecting your print is the nozzle tem... | 2018/08/14 | [
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6,687 | I've been printing successfully on my CR-10 for the past year now. I've had issues now and then but have been able to look around the internet and solve them. I've been using some Flashforge white PLA with great results.
Example:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JlMqb.jpg)
Last week I got a couple of new rolls of filament, black and orange. SinceI tried printing with them, I've got nothing but jams. The white prints fine, however.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bC6Tt.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M8YN.jpg)
I dug around online and found this was happening to my printer: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vH_spN5wyw>
So yesterday I opened up my hotend to clean it out and got quite a bit of gunk out:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbatW.jpg)
I also changed my nozzle. I printed some with the old white PLA and printed fine. The moment I switched over to the new orange filament, it jammed after a few layers.
I ensured my nozzle was tightened and then got to measuring the filament. The older white one is 1.75mm in most places with some at 1.73mm.
The new ones that I got are pretty inconsistent - the orange one ranging from 1.68mm to 1.72mm; I found very few places where it was actually 1.75mm. The black one averaged 1.72mm.
So I made the change in my slicer but even then the first layer was visibly underextruding and it jammed soon after. I took apart the hotend and cleaned it out. Now, I put the white one back and its back printing fine.
Should I go ahead and return the filament? | [
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"text": "Not all filaments are created equal. Even with the very same manufacturer, the addition of colorful pigments can chan... | 2018/08/16 | [
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6,711 | Has anyone tried the steel-reinforced polyurethane timing belts? If so, how do they compare to the rubber ones? | [
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"text": "I do not believe the standard rubber/plastic belts have any significant stretching over time, nor do they str... | 2018/08/22 | [
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6,715 | So apparently the wiring in my home is... questionable. Very rarely, plugging or unplugging things will cause a power dip. This is almost always the result of turning on a fan or something, is only for a moment before coming back, but its long enough to cause my printer to reset. I want to add a backup battery supply using either the 12v cell pulled out of an old apc ups (before the suggestion of just plugging it into that... I did, somethings fried in it and it will ALSO power cycle everything connected to it every few hours) or an old car battery. Is there any reason I shouldn't use this circuit, which was originally intended for amateur radio equipment? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jd7Sp.gif)
Also is there anything else i should be considering? | [
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"text": "This circuit is correct as it does the job (provides a charge and switch-over when needed). \n\nThe only drawbac... | 2018/08/23 | [
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6,716 | I have an Ender 3 which I primarily use for printing with PLA. I haven't branched out to other materials yet. :)
I've done [some research into PLA fumes and airborne particulates](https://3dprinthq.com/desktop-3d-printer-safety/) which seemed to mention that PLA is mostly safe, but ABS is rather dangerous to print without proper ventilation. However, I understand that there isn't much research on the topic and that there haven't been many studies.
I have been keeping my printer in my bedroom, far isolated from flammable materials, which I sometimes leave on to print while I'm asleep. Should I be concerned with my health safety with respect to airborne particulates emitted by printing with PLA?
**Other questions ask about ABS, but here, I'm asking specifically about PLA.** | [
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"text": "Fire is the most obvious risk - firmware can now detect some of the more obvious failure modes such as a deta... | 2018/08/23 | [
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6,722 | I've seen many references to a FDM print being weakest in the Z axis, due to poor bonding between layers compared to the extruded walls.
Thinking about optimising this for a specific material (excluding temperature and geometry), is there an optimum layer height? It seems obvious that too thick a layer will give less compression and maybe less heat transfer into the layer below (so 0.3 with a 0.4mm nozzle might be expected to be a bit weak). Is there a single break point (i.e. less than half the nozzle is good), or are super fine layers either good or bad?
I'm specifically using PLA at the moment, in case different materials have different behaviour in this respect.
I am **not** asking how to model the strength of layer bonds or how to take that into account when designing a part. | [
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"text": "My3dmatter.com performed a [series of tests](http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern//influence-i... | 2018/08/23 | [
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6,723 | I will be creating a small tube styled piece to use as a junction between two pieces of plastic. The idea is to reattach the two pieces and provide strength so they don't break apart again. I plan on using PLA.
My question is, will superglue (cyanoacrylate) work best for this or are there better choices for attaching PLA to hard (injected molded) plastic? The big thing I'm wanting to make sure is if any of these glues will dissolve the PLA and whether some glues might bond better than others. | [
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"text": "Yes Super Glue is best choice.\nI personally use it in many PLA projects.\nI even apply Super Glue layer to ABS ... | 2018/08/23 | [
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6,726 | What are the 'headline' basic design rules for FDM?
Which topics for design principles do you recommend to someone who has purchased an FDM machine and wants to understand what is practical? In other words, where is the place to start when you don't yet know what questions to ask?
[This question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5215/3d-printing-references-for-beginner) and its answer discuss design tools and the workflow but doesn't cover design rules.
Design rules here meaning the principles of what is **special** about **planning** a design to be manufactured with an FDM process as opposed to traditional machining or a printing process like SLA, not the detailed/automated checks that would be applied to something like a PCB layout prior to sign-off. | [
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"text": "Designing a part for 3D printing often doesn't seem to have many special considerations, but I have learned the hard w... | 2018/08/23 | [
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6,739 | When I purchased my China made Anet A8 printer, it came with the ball bearing style linear bearings for the 8mm guide rods. While pulling parts out of the box and putting them together, I noticed several of the small ball bearings fell out of their respective holders. At the time, I really didn't know what to think of it (ie: were these just *extra* ball bearings falling out; were they actually needed). I put the printer together anyway and it seems to work okay.
I have noticed while I've been printing, there's a lot of noise during travel of the pieces. I'm not exactly sure where the noise is coming from, but realize it has to be coming from one or more of the bearings. To hopefully fix the issue, I've purchased some Igus Drylin polymer bushings to replace the linear bearings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dA0pj.jpg)
My questions are:
* When installing these bushings, should they be completely dry?
* Should I at least clean the rods?
* Are they completely maintenance free?
* Anything else I'm not thinking of to worry about? | [
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"text": "According to [igus commercial documentation](https://www.igus.eu/wpck/19864/drylin_plasticvsmetal), these bushing... | 2018/08/25 | [
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6,744 | ISSUE: Stepper motors are not working when connected with RAMPS 1.4.
OBSERVATION: The LED lights(LED 2,3,4) in the RAMPS 1.4 is not powering up.
PRACTICES: I use Arduino Mega 2560 and installed Marlin firmware in it. And I bought a RAMPS 1.4 in a local electronic dealer. I placed the RAMPS over Arduino Mega 2560. For testing I just connected 2 NEMA 17 stepper motors with RAMPS. When USB port connection is given from laptop to Arduino board, a LED light is ON in Arduino board (L) and in RAMPS (LED 1). I use SMPS 12 V 20 A as a PSU for RAMPS. But in RAMPS the LED 2, 3, 4 are not switched ON. I checked the input voltage to the RAMPS using micrometer and it shows 11.75 V. But there is no output from the RAMPS.
Also I installed and tried Repetier firmware and Grbl but it doesn't work. And I use Windows 10 pro 64 bit OS.
When I flashed Arduino with Grbl, in this case all of the LEDs on the Arduino and RAMPS 1.4 are switched ON. I use Candle GRBL software to test the stepper motors.
And I replaced and tested with another RAMPS which is bought from Amazon but the problem remains unchanged.
Kindly give some suggestions at the earliest.
I have attached the images of my circuit connection:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4Q68.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dyH6r.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Pk7V.jpg)
Board selection in Marlin:
```
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB
#endif
```
### Additional clarifications
In response to Professor's questions:
1. Yes the stepper drivers are connected correctly
2. Yes the stepper wiring is accurate (2B 2A 1A 1B) as per mentioned in the Ramps 1.4.
3. No there is no voltage input to stepper motor. But there is 12V input to Ramps 1.4.
4. Disabled cold extrusion
5. No, the firmware is not set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)
6. Yes, pins are set correctly for your board in Marlin | [
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6,747 | I sadly have a big problem since a couple of weeks and I cant fix it myself. For over 20 prints, I had the same problems: At the **start, everything goes well** but at some point of time, my Creality CR-10 starts **under extruding and** after like 1 minute, **NO filament is extruded anymore** and the 3D printer moves over the printing bed without extruding anything. After that, I have to pull out the filament and the feeder always grinds into it.
Some problem with the hotend (so the feeder works well but it cant push the filament through somehow - I cleaned the nozzle and couldn't find anything wrong there. When I push the filament through by hand it gets extruded but after a failed print, it is **VERY hard to pull it back** (because of the filament being slightly bigger at the nozzle - hard to remove! -
**That could be the problem:**
**I just tried to remove the filament from the printer (another failed print) I had to use two tongs because the filament was so hard to pull back. I noticed that the diameter of the PLA close to the hotend was a lot bigger (way over 1.75 mm) *For about 5 cm* that's a very long distance - that's the reason why it's hard to pull back (and also push through?) But I don't know why that happens... If I get an answer for that, I think that I have solved my problem**
I already tried printing at 50 % which didn't work.
* Creality CR-10 with 0.4 mm nozzle,
* 1.75 mm PLA filament used (white)
* 0.27 mm layer height
* 45 mm/s printing speed at 220° (I can easily push the filament through at 200° by hand)
* 60° bed temp
And here some pictures of the failed prints:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZPB2n.jpg "Failed print")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mrw3I.jpg "Filament grinding")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKJTQ.jpg "Sorry for the bad resolution")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/54vPw.jpg "Failed print #2")
**I think I can exclude these:**
It could be: (the things I can imagine but don't have a solution for)
* The feeder being too strong/my new PLA filament being too soft
* Maybe a software problem? I'm using the newest Cura version and I don't know what could be wrong there.
The filament seems to run out of the hotend. Something is really broken here. I tried to lower the print temperature and don't have an issue (at least not that big) with pulling out the filament but instead, the feeder started grinding into the filament again.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHT78.jpg "Filament exiting nozzle")
I'm very happy for any answer and possible solutions. | [
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"text": "Grinding is due to attempts to advance filament faster than it can be melted and dispensed. Try one or more of the fol... | 2018/08/27 | [
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6,750 | Issue: Printing is not continuous.
Observation: While printing, the upper layer of the nozzle is leaking. And also the printing is not continuous, the layers are not formed properly.
Practices: Alternate nozzle has been fastened, Bed leveling has been checked, Even used the other softwares to print. Reset-failsafe is also done.
Conclusion: Feeding of filament from the extruder motor is continuous but the printing is not smooth.
Attachment: The pictures and [videos](https://youtu.be/Zwp45vp5AxQ) (working) are attached.
Which should be a print of the following image of the model:
Certainly I have made certain observations along with your suggested queries. I have listed them please comment.
1. The brand which I'm using is the TEVO TORNADO.
2. The material is PLA.
3. The temperatures are 60-65C (BED) and 210-215C (EXT)
4. The software I used is REPETIER.
5. The extruder stepper motor works fine (No clicks) (The teeths are clean)
6. This is the nozzle leak
[](https://ibb.co/c6gf2p) | [
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6,751 | I get the concept of automatic bed leveling...the printer moves around the bed and uses a sensor to identify high and low spots, then "software compensates for differences".
But what exactly does "compensates" mean?
It is extruding more material in the low spots to build them up and thinning out the high spots? Is it adding or removing layers? Is it shifting layers as it goes up to compensate tilt? Or...?
In what ways will this affect the final outcome? Would it be valid to say that if you wanted an automatically leveled bed and dimensional accuracy you should always print to a raft? | [
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"text": "Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of t... | 2018/08/27 | [
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6,755 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qNWsZ.png)
Hey!
Pretty new to all this. Wondering how you would approach this problem to have an extruded element on top of a flat surface. I want to avoid lots of support material (actually no support at all for a cleaner print and no work with sanding etc.) I intend to print this inverted in Z (i.e. text down) for the main structure.
My only idea would be to print it separately and then glue it on. But maybe there is another solution that comes to your mind?
Cheers! | [
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"text": "Supporting the text while printing should simply not be a problem, if printed in the orientation shown. The text, ... | 2018/08/27 | [
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6,760 | Are there any specific type of FDM 3D printers that I should look for? | [
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"text": "Not all printers are suitable to print flexible filament. E.g. 1.75 mm filament printers with a Bowden extruder/hoten... | 2018/08/27 | [
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6,764 | A couple weeks before, I bought a custom 3D printer that has an Ultimaker 2 motherboard in it. However, the dimensions of the printer is not same with Ultimaker 2 (X and Y same, a bit smaller on Z). The printer had tinkerfirmware installed in it. Today, I tried to print a premade .gcode file (Which was for another 3D printer I guess) and after pressing print, The machine told me the file will overwrite machine settings, and I pressed yes for it. After that, the dimensions of my 3D printer has changed in it's firmware. The bed is raising more than it should while starting calibrating, and not setting it's position precisely. (To make the 1mm gap, I had to move the bed down 4-5mm away from where it should be.) Now the question is, what can I do to fix this problem ? I also tried reinstalling original firmware which didn't really worked. (All the parts are orginal except the frame, which is a bit more smaller on height) How should I measure the height of printing area? | [
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6,778 | When running [Marlin Firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin), is it possible to run [G-code](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) scripts/series of commands automatically when you insert the SD card?
---
I'm running Marlin on a 3D printer board using an ATmega 2560 based board with a reprap discount LCD controller with an SD card slot. I would like to do this without the need to add another computer/board, so native from the board running the Marlin Firmware. | [
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"text": "I am not *entirely sure* if this is what you are after, or if it will work, but from [this post](https://github.... | 2018/08/29 | [
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6,784 | I've heard I should store filament in sealed container, preferably with a desiccant.
But let's say I let a spool get a little old on the printer, or I purchased a filament spool that was old or improperly packaged. How would I know? How would this impact prints (what kind of symptoms would I see)? What things could I do (perhaps in the slicer) to correct for this and prolong the life of marginal filament?
And the corollary... in a typical environment, how long can filament be left out without suffering from the exposure?
I'm thinking mainly about PLA, but responses for ABS and other materials are useful, too. | [
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"text": "The primary issue with long-term exposure of filament to the environment is that it will absorb water moisture from... | 2018/08/30 | [
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6,794 | I had recently purchased an ender 3 and after setting it up and plugging it in, I received an electrical shock from the power supply. I live in the UK and so I was provided an EU to UK adapter which I used and I set the voltage to 230 V.
Does anyone know why I was shocked and if there is any solution? Was it because EU to UK isn’t grounded (or am I wrong)?
Would an older 10 amp monitor power cable work better as it’s grounded? | [
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"text": "The \"shock\" is likely from noise filtering circuitry at the power supply's input. For filtering, every pow... | 2018/08/31 | [
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6,804 | I have an Adventurer 3 printer from Flashforge and every time I unclog it, it gets clogged up again. I’ve done about 6 or 7 prints with it. So after I unclog it, I load the filament and it comes out of the nozzle like it should but once I start a 3D print, it’s clogged again. The process of what I do to unclog it is by heating the nozzle up and then shove a small metal rod down the nozzle to push out the clogged filament. I do this several times until its all gone. I’ve read up on what I can do to prevent it but it doesn’t seem to work. What should I do?  | [
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"text": "The Flashforge documentation is not much help, so unless there's a way for you to connect with their user commu... | 2018/09/01 | [
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6,806 | I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice:
* Can reach 300 °C or up
* Can handle nozzle size larger than 1 mm
* Can be used with polycarbonate filament
I plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something. | [
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"text": "By interpreting your question as *\"Can most hotends print polycarbonate at 300°C+?\"*, and taking into conside... | 2018/09/02 | [
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6,807 | I have printed a couple weeks perfectly fine with my Ender 3. Two weeks ago I changed the firmware but the settings were all fine and resulted in good prints.
Now, suddenly *during* a print the extruder motor started to under-extrude.
I thought "hey, could be the file" and used a test file that printed well two weeks ago: Under-extrusion, barely a line.
I looked at the extruder, no filament grinding, no clicking from lost steps or moving against pressure. The Bowden tube is firmly seated though.
I measured what is coming out: instead of 50 mm I ordered to push into the hotend got 28.7 mm. So I went and looked at the steps/mm, which is 93, exactly what it is also on the TronXY X1, which uses pretty much the same extruder setup but for a different style, same sized gear.
I cleaned out the nozzle nevertheless, but that didn't change the results.
What might be wrong and how can I fix it?!
Edit:
* Touching the filament while I was printing a freshly sliced test, I realized it DID lose steps, just the filament did slip back (almost) quietly. Pressing a finger on the filament made me able to feel the shiver in it.
* Inspecting what was printed showed, that the nozzle had migrated against the print platform a little over the weeks. | [
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6,815 | I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.
I am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp\_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).
I have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of `Watch_Temp_Sensor` in `Configuration_Adv.h`. I don't know what's going wrong.
Can extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block? I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.
The power supply is working fine
P.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.
This is the setup:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xvI9.jpg "Photo of hotend")
This is the thermistor setup:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnbVn.jpg "Thermistor setup")
This is a view of heater position:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vl3b0.jpg "Heater position") | [
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6,818 | The company I work for is protective of IP and has security procedures for disposing of anything that could be stolen for industrial espionage. Paper gets shredded and sent to trusted recycling center, all old data storage media gets obliterated, but what do we do with 3D prints? For any functional prototype, I have 10 or more early versions and failed prints. Is there a good way to dispose of these so that they are unrecognizable? Given the volume of prints I need to dispose of, it should be safe, cheap, and able to handle large batches. | [
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"text": "If your company has a shredder which would handle large amounts of paper at one time, it should be able to hand... | 2018/09/03 | [
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6,832 | I am attempting to write a basic slicer for some objects I am working with. I need to write a custom slicer as the objects are not polygonal based (they are implicit objects) and therefore cannot be plugged into slic3r. I can easily obtain the perimeter/shell of the objects I am working with and have a few successful prints. What I am having trouble with is how to add infill. I think the biggest hurdle is simply my inability to frame the question properly. How do current software tackle this problem?
I don't know of my current approach is feasible but if I have a collection of vectors that represent the path around the outside of the object and a collection of vectors that represent an arbitrarily large infill pattern is there a way to union the two paths together to from an outer path (the object shell) and an inner path that is the infill pattern cut out in the shape of the object?
EDIT:
Sorry for the lack of clarification. So lets say I cut out the infill pattern to match the inside of the object. How do I then intelligently connect all the broken infill segments together to form an efficient path that doesn't cross gaps or mess the object up in any way? | [
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"text": "simple answer is math but you know that for sure\n\nmore descriptive answer (but still simple and with no math)... | 2018/09/05 | [
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6,845 | When manually controlling the z-axis in reprap, it works fine. If I use the home button, it doesn't move. Instead, it stalls/freezes/hangs. It attempts to turn, but can't successfully make a full turn. | [
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"text": "lower the moving speed of the Z-axis motor, search for \n\n> \n> homing feed rate\n> \n> \n> \n\nin config.h as i... | 2018/09/06 | [
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6,853 | I've got a bracelet concept that I've sketched up as a flat design. I'm trying to found a route by which I can extrude this into a 3d object (depth map?), curve it into a bracelet, then ultimately create a STL file out of it. I'm having trouble finding a way to do this that allows me to "warp" the flat object into a bracelet before I try to print.
Is there a recommend technique for this? I'm not worried about representation of the picture; it's effectively meant to be an 'etched' pattern. | [
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6,859 | When exchanging the mainboard of my Ultimaker Original, I found the new (unoriginal) mainboard to have a condensator that is quite a little higher than on the original, which means the fan duct doesn't fit any more.
I read somewhere that those A4988 stepper motor drivers don't have to be actively cooled, but a heatsink will be sufficient:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oJmlL.jpg)
After testing the theory I found the heatsinks to be really hot, but not too hot to touch. Sadly I do not have any means of temperature measurement other than my fingers...
How hot do they normally get, when should I abort printing and look for a different solution?
Are there any good solutions other than the original cooler & cooling duct? | [
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6,860 | I am using cura with M3D entry level printer.
When I print things more than 6-7cm/2.5-3inches, at the end of the print, the hot end sink back into the print then gets stuck as it tries to return to idle position.
Please see the attached photo. Has anyone had this problem? Thank you[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xpD4.jpg)
The last 20 lines of gcode is:
```
G0 X50.83 Y49.982
G1 F600 X50.541 Y49.975 E4399.62304
G1 X50.268 Y49.985 E4399.62637
G1 X49.999 Y49.999 E4399.63024
G1 X49.73 Y50.012 E4399.6341
G1 X49.457 Y50.023 E4399.63742
G1 X49.168 Y50.016 E4399.63941
G0 F7200 X49.28 Y49.87
;TIME_ELAPSED:6301.614981
G1 F1500 E4393.13941
M107
M104 S0
M140 S0
;Retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
M104 S0
;End of Gcode
``` | [
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6,869 | After noticing that my ender 3 couldn't print a 'perfect' circle I decided to use a [calibration cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) to see if that could be the issue. These were my results:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHJOF.jpg)
I did have some successful prints before noticing these problems but it would be great if anyone could help/find a solution.
I think it may be because of the belts tension as I had accidentally over stretched it by putting it over the wheels instead of under: is it worth getting a new belt then?
I use 20% infill, with triangle pattern in cura, using the standard 0.4mm nozzle.
Edit
====
After doing a [different testprint](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090144) and measuring, it revealed that both had an accurate 20mm Y and Z, but only an 18.5mm X. Might I have destroyed my belt when I mounted it overstrained?
Edit2:
======
After purchasing a new X belt, the calibration cube was much closer at 19 x 20 x 20. But still not at a good enough tolerance for my liking. Additionally, when printing a cylinder, two relatively flat edges were printed with it either side (perpendicular to the x-axis). | [
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"text": "Your top layer looks like you need to add additional top layers and there are signs of a slight bit of over-extrusion ... | 2018/09/08 | [
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6,878 | Really strange observation with my MP Select Mini V2 printing PLA. I've printed a dual-fan shroud so I can have a dedicated part-cooling fan. I've noticed that when I turn it on, the extruder starts stringing everywhere. Little tiny spider-web wisps. No amount of temperature change will make them go away (printing at 200 °C). But if I simply turn off the part-cooling fan, I get a perfect print. This doesn't make sense to me - isn't the part-cooling fan supposed to reduce stringing by cooling the filament faster?
More info: Using Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, retraction enabled at 3.5 mm and 40 mm/s, which works great when the part-cooling fan is OFF. But when I turn it on without changing any other settings, I get stringing everywhere.
Please see picture below. The part on the left was printed using the part-cooling fan and the one on the right was printed without the part-cooling fan. No other changes. The part-cooling fan is pictured in upper left (bottom fan).
Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing?
Note that I print at 0.175 mm layer height, or "Normal" for the MP Mini. The cooling fan can be controlled but if I turn it completely off then the cold end part of the nozzle won't get actively cooled. Using Cura I can slowly increase the fan over the first several levels as well, but I'm worried that if the cold end doesn't stay cold it will get clogged up with melted filament. I will try some different fan speed settings and report back - currently running at 100 % all the time.
---
*I went back to the stock shroud with single fan to remove variables. The stock shroud has a small vent at the bottom where air blows over the part, but not much. I had the same problem - I had to put a piece of tape over the blow hole to get the part to print without strings. I also couldn't get the PLA to stick to the bed easily when the blow hole was open. I'm not using the heated bed in any cases - I've found I can print most PLA without heating the bed at all. I'm beginning to think maybe this PLA is just extremely temperature sensitive. The brand is 3D Solutech Printer Filament Real Black.* | [
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"text": "Your top layer looks like you need to add additional top layers and there are signs of a slight bit of over-extrusion ... | 2018/09/10 | [
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6,883 | **problem solved by resetting cura.**
I have problems like this: How can I fix this? I can't find the right setting.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cf9Q.png "No top layer")
Also, what are these yellow lines? Do you know how to remove them? They disappear when I disable to show the brim/raft/skirt.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj7Sx.png "Yellow lines #1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BnAc4.png "Yellow lines #2") | [
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"text": "I'm pretty sure the yellow lines are showing the full path of the extruder head, including where it's retract... | 2018/09/11 | [
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6,890 | Can the glTF format be used for 3D printing?
If not, is there any tool can convert it to another format such as STL, OBJ, STEP, and IGES? | [
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"text": "As far as can be found it should be possible to convert glTF into STL (or OBJ).\n\nYou could try to use an online conv... | 2018/09/12 | [
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6,896 | I'm looking for clamps to fix the glass on my heatbed. After some search I found that some people use clamps printed of PLA. Can I use PLA clamps for a heated heatbed (~60 °C)?
I also tried foldback clips but they block my nozzle. The Anet A8 starts in the front left corner. When I start to print, the nozzle moves a little bit up on z, then up on y and right on x. At this first move it moves into the fold back clip. I'm looking for a way to fix the corners and not to fix the edge in the middle.
What other clamps or clips can I use to fix the glass (~3 mm) on the heatbed (~2.5 mm)? I don't want to use glue.
My printer is an Anet A8. | [
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"text": "Let's analyze the problem:\n\n* We have a 5.5 mm total thickness.\n* We want to (semi)permanently affix the two layer... | 2018/09/12 | [
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6,914 | *The pictures explain my problem. I have already tried to reduce the retraction but that showed no effect. Thank you for your help.*
The effect is a total stop of the print (no material is extruded).
* Creality CR 10
* Cura 3.4.1
I recently added this new feeder aluminium block because the 3D printed stock version was bad quality.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/05Kkq.jpg "Filament not entering Bowden tube")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzUD5.jpg "Close up") | [
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"text": "This is typically caused by resistance in the tube or hotend but in your case it appears to be mostly caused by a very po... | 2018/09/14 | [
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6,922 | There's PLA filament clogged in my Bowden tube, is there a best practice for cleaning it out or do I need to replace the whole tube?
Also, the couplings are totally stuck, so I guess those would need replacement too or are there ways to get stuck couplings off?
Click [here](https://streamable.com/bi73e) for a video. | [
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6,937 | I've been looking into the viability of manufacturing a replacement part for a kitchen blender that has a broken part. I found [this page that talks about what makes a print food safe](https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/). One of the items mentioned was:
>
> ... a brass extruder may contain lead, and lead contamination can cause some nasty health problems. ...
>
>
>
I own an Ender 3, and I haven't replaced the nozzle yet. How can I tell if my printer is capable of creating food safe prints in its current state? | [
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"text": "Yes you have to change brass nozzle it contains lead.\nIf you are planning to print in PLA don't do that becaus... | 2018/09/18 | [
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6,938 | I am a newbie to 3D printing and ran into a weird infill line on my second 3D printing object on a new Qidi X-Pro machine (which works great). I've included a screenshot of the infill line, which is deliberately printed the full height of the object. I'm thinking this line has been deliberately inserted by the Qidi slicer for some reason, but I have no idea why. Do all slicers generate these kinds of lines? If so, why?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s1SAU.jpg) | [
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"text": "I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infi... | 2018/09/18 | [
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6,949 | I'm building a 3d printer of size 500 x 500 x 500 build area. For the Z axis, I'm planning to use this [Linear actuator](https://www.3dprintronics.com/Linear-Actuator-Ball-Screw-1204-p108536003).
The maximum weight Z axis might encounter is 15 Kg due to it being a clay printer. A single linear actuator can, according to the specs, lift 10 Kg. So I'm planning to use two of this.
My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when the motor is de-energized under a load of 15 kg shared by two systems.
What effect the diameter of rod has on it??
Is there any way to find that?? | [
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"text": "> \n> My question is a ball screw of pitch 4mm or 5mm, will it be able to Maintain it's position when motor ... | 2018/09/19 | [
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6,950 | I finished a 3D object for 4 wheels, but something seems wrong with the final scene to me:
The nearer wheels (#1 and #2) appear smaller than the far one (#3 and #4), and the distance between wheel #3 an #4 seems longer than between (1) and (2), like you can see in this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8YdzP.png)
I want to achieve the scene like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkHkU.png)
How to do that in FreeCAD? | [
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"text": "CAD programs uses parallel view not perspective view. \nSo the length of 2 objects with the same length are display... | 2018/09/19 | [
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6,965 | I recently became curious about the Line Width setting in Cura and why one might change it if they aren't using different size nozzle.
Since I've gotten my Ender 3, I've always kept the line width equal to my nozzle size (*0.4 mm*). I've [looked around a bit](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/5zxj1z/should_line_width_always_nozzle_size/), and it seems like most people actually set their line widths to be higher, depending upon who you ask anywhere from 120 - 150 % nozzle diameter.
Why is this? They mention that it helps with print adhesion, but why? Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide, necessitating a line spacing of 0.4 mm? | [
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"text": "> \n> Shouldn't a 0.4 mm nozzle create a line of plastic 0.4 mm wide\n> \n> \n> \n\nNot necessarily. Due to ... | 2018/09/21 | [
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6,982 | As I started to learn about 3D printing, the gist I learned was "it's better to store the filaments in a drybox." As I rechecked these notes, they were to a good degree from an era when PLA was rather new to the market and ABS was the goTo.
Then I learned "PLA is not really hygroscopic and can be stored freely."1
Now, I know some materials are pretty hygroscopic, but not all. So, let's try to pin it down:
**Which materials are hygroscopic enough to demand a drybox?**
I know that it is good practice to store all filament [in a somewhat dehumidified or airtight box](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/84/does-filament-have-to-be-stored-in-an-airtight-environment), but there are some materials out there that become **unprintable** and need drying before printing if improperly stored. ***This question is to point out these "special storage mandatory" filaments only.*** If a material can't be printed without dry storage it belongs here. If it is a nice to have, it doesn't.
This is a **Back It Up** question: answers need to provide one of two:
* explain personal experience, marked as such.
* provide an authoritative source (scientific paper/videos, manufacturer papers, quote from an experienced maker).
---
1 - For some time (month?). I do store my PLA in a closed but unsealed IKEA container with all the desiccant bags I can find as it is clearly *benefitial*. | [
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"text": "[PVA](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/pva)\n======================================================\n\nFro... | 2018/09/24 | [
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6,990 | I'm a 2-week newbie at 3D printing, working on a new Qidi Xpro machine (that is solid and one that I like). So, I do not want to believe that this issue is caused by my printer itself. I'm hoping that my settings have something to do with it.
The problem is all the filament lines (travel lines, I think) that start at a sharp corner and go somewhere else. Most often, the lines go to another sharp corner but sometimes can intersect the middle of a side. See the image below for many examples. I have drawn white lines parallel to the unwanted filament lines in case they are hard to spot.
The unwanted lines also appear in the infill underneath the surface lines. They look like porous infill grid lines since they should probably not be there, and they do not get a full load of filament extrusion. You could easily say "Oh, they are the result of a "leaky" nozzle with poor retraction, but I think it's more complicated than that. I have done a full load of retraction tests and calibrations to optimize retraction lengths and speeds to minimize hairs.
Here is an image showing the problem:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PnCci.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UWQbv.jpg)
My Cura settings seem reasonable for PLA: bed 50C, nozzle 200C, print speed 40mm, travel speed 90mm (100-110 makes no difference), retraction length 8.5-9.5mm (makes no big difference), retraction speed 35mm, infill: density 20% (line, grid, makes no difference), z-seam set to random, retract at new layer = enabled.
I want to believe that something in my settings is telling the machine to extrude a 1/2 or 1/3 amount of filament when it starts those travels from sharp corners to somewhere else. But, I have not been able to solve the problem.
Everything else works fine in a print (IMHO) except for another problem that I [described here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6945/infill-failure-at-the-far-corner-of-two-different-prints). I thought I fixed that one, but I saw it occur on the image shown above (inside the infill, under the surface that is shown above).
Does anyone have any ideas that I might try to solve the problem? Thank you.
UPDATE: Here's an image with Zhop when retracted enabled at zhop height 1mm. This is an infill picture, so it cannot be directly compared to the surfaced original. But, the unwanted trails are all still there (although very thin). Maybe 2mm hop height will do it. I will run another test.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYvRg.jpg)
UPDATE:
I ran a second test with zhop 2.0mm, but without success. The problem was still there. (Retraction on, 8.5mm, min distance 0.8mm). Here is a comparison picture. I think the gcode is definitely telling my printer to do what it does, because the problem is not just a random leak. I think I'll try a different slicer in hopes that it generates different gcode.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZjwx.jpg)
UPDATE ON COMBING
Oshac pointed me to the Cura "combing" setting in his comment below. He nailed teh problem perfectly. Combing means "don't retract, and ooze as you please while you move in a straight line to the destination." That's exactly what I've been showing in my images.
The default for Cura combing is enabled. As a newbie, I didn't know enough to turn it off. Worse yet, if combing is enabled ("don't retract"), it prevents "Zhop When Retracted" from zhopping. So, all my zhop experiments did exactly nothing and had zero effect because no zhopping was occurring. After I disabled combing, then for the first time in my life I actually saw what a zhop looked like. (And thus I can assert that zhopping was not happening with combining=enabled.)
Here is an image of my new "perfect" prints thanks to Oshac's pointer on combing. The left two prints have combing off, zhop off. They are almost perfect, inside and out. The infill walls are generally solid and smooth (20% infill) and without the globs and gaps in the image on the right (with combing on).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Mkik.jpg)
As a closing note, I think the combing setting was probably also responsible for the problem of missing infill grids in the corner, [as described in this question.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6945/infill-failure-at-the-far-corner-of-two-different-prints) The problem doesn't happen with combing off. My theory is that with combing on (as it was for that question), the oozing pulls filament out of the nozzle during the travel, so there's not enough filament at the destination to bite and bond to the corner. So, turning combing off solved 3 problems for me: the awful surface lines, the unwanted trails in the infill, and the missing infills in the corner. It also greatly improved the quality of the infill walls, too. | [
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7,002 | I have a Tronxy X5S and I am having issues calibrating my X and Y axis. When I print a 20 mm3 cube it comes out 19.9 mm x 20.4 mm x 20 mm. I have already made the belt tensions as even as I can get them but it did not change the calibration cube size.
I have added [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2815168) upgrade to my printer for the idlers and motor mounts:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QG60X.jpg)
I have also upgraded the hotend to a V6 clone, after this change is when I noticed the discrepancy in the calibration print.
**What else can cause the X and Y axis to be uneven in a CoreXY printer besides uneven tension in the belts?**
UPDATE:
Its seems Oshac was correct in his [assessment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7002/corexy-calibration-issue#7003) that my printer is not printing square. I printed [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563185) calibration square to measure the diagonals and I got: $ \overline{AC} = 141.82 $, $ \overline{BD} = 141.35 $. I believe the correct value for these diagonals should be $ \sqrt{2} \times 100 \approx 141.42 $.
[](https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/16/e6/d8/c1/f0/9bb6e035af9cc431b0bb4fa60281c967_preview_featured.jpg)
Oshac also mentioned that I can adjust my firmware to correct this but I would rather fix the problem than apply a band-aid. Does this indicate that I did not assemble the printer frame correctly? | [
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7,016 | I have a [Monoprice Select Mini V2](https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=21711) and I’ve recently been having issues with little strings that are thick and sturdy sticking off of models:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUMyH.jpg "Example of stringing")
I used Ultimaker Cura v3.4.1 to slice this model: [Basic Retraction test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563909) using [Hatchbox Black PLA](https://hatchbox3d.com/collections/pla/products/3d-pla-1kg1-75-blk) filament
And the following settings:
* Layer Height: 0.1313 mm
* Wall Thickness 1.05 mm
* Infill: 22%
* Extruder Temp: 200 °C
* Bed Temp: 55 °C
* Retraction Distance: 4 mm
* Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s
* Speed: 50 mm/s
* Z-Hop When Retracted: Off
* Supports: Off
* Adhesion: Brim
I’d appreciate any advice on how to fix this problem. | [
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7,019 | When modelling for 3D printing, can I distinguish somehow the type of infill in various areas of the model? Say there may be some areas in the model where I want 100% infill (maximum strength) but some areas where the infill can be less (maybe 25%).
I am new to 3D printing, doing my first model (enclosure for electronics - camera module). Using tinkercad.com only so far. Places where 100% infill is wanted are usually walls of the case and "threads" for the bolts but I want to make the enclosure as stiff as possible as a whole so I am thinking about using some sparse infill in the "free space" inside of the enclosure (so that it does not break so easily when it falls to the ground etc). I just do not know how to define this within the model. | [
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"text": "I found out I misunderstood some principles of designing/modelling for 3D printing.\n\nI designed my object for 100% inf... | 2018/09/29 | [
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7,025 | How can I vary the infill percentage for different layer heights of my model?
Context: The bottom part of my model needs about 20% infill. The geometry of the top part of the model (mostly cones of various sizes) prints well with 0% infill and is of course a lot faster to print if I can specify this. | [
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"text": "*Your question is very similar to [Different infill in the same part](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/... | 2018/09/29 | [
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7,037 | I've seen a few print time-lapse videos lately which use gyroid infill: wavy lines, which deform across layers so that the waves end up alternating between the two axes. Other than making the time-lapse videos look much cooler, what are the benefits of this infill style compared to the more common hatching or cross-hatching? | [
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"text": "From [this reference](https://mattshub.com/2018/03/15/gyroid-infill/) you can read that:\n\n> \n> A gyroid is a natura... | 2018/10/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7037",
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7,038 | When printing several objects, I recently encountered a problem that arises when the structure in itself is relatively thin or the support towers have a small surface: the printhead would in motion tend to knock one or more over as it traveled or catch at them and create layer shift.
How can I avoid collisions with the already printed parts of a layer? | [
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"text": "The problem was twofold:\n\n1. Lack of bed adhesion due to the small contact surface\n2. motion into the already print... | 2018/10/01 | [
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7,042 | I have a concept that's roughly 18"x30" (about 457x762 mm), and I just realized that the Makerbot and similar printers only allow dimensions around the size of a piece of paper. What are other options? Are there large 3D printers I just don't know about? I looked up TMC injection mold, but couldn't find anything on size (most links go to PDFs with printer images).
Is injection even in the same "world" as 3D..? Sorry for confusing the two. | [
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"text": "YesIf you have the money\n========================\n\nEither read [here](https://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-printer-l... | 2018/10/01 | [
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7,083 | I wanted to create a coin stacking device similar to this one:
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:499177>
But I wanted to only 3 coins, 5c, 2c, and 1c. Unfortunately the STL came in pretty messy after importing to Blender, which made it difficult to edit the model to have only 3 stacks. So I decided to create my own. I used a box and three cylinders with the diameter of the coins + 2mm so the coins can fall loose into the stack. The cylinders where used for boolean modify the box to create the stack gaps.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1dgA7.jpg)
Exporting the model as an obj and importing them to Cura showed it getting strange diagonal faces at the stack gaps and at the top.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xgjzt.jpg)
After slicing however the faces were gone and the test print came out pretty decent, even on low quality settings the measurement were quite exact.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPUWI.jpg)
Still I would like to know why these additional faces appear and how to prevent that. I am not a blender expert, but I guess it has to do something with the topology/faces? I started creating additional edges in Blender for the isolated vertex created by the boolean modifier, but I don't know if that's actually necessary for a 3d printed model that's not going to be textured ect. | [
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"text": "It is quite common for modelling operations to result in 'non manifold geometry', meaning that some of the fa... | 2018/10/03 | [
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7,122 | I just got [my first spool of PETG](http://smile.amazon.com/Stronghero3D-Printing-Filaments-Accuracy-0-05mm/dp/B07HDZ9K22/) and tried to calibrate an Ultimaker Cura profile for it on my Ender 3 today with limited success.
I've had severe issues with the filament not sticking to the build surface, instead balling up around the edges of the nozzle tip. (*rather like [this post](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/722/petg-collecting-on-the-extruder)*) Sometimes it sticks alright, but that happens properly > 50 % of the time. I've never seen this behavior with my PLA materials.
So far, I've only been trying to print [this calibration part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37869).
**Relevant Profile Params:** (*let me know if I need to post more, I think these are the relevant ones*)
* Layer Height: 0.2 mm
* Temp
+ Nozzle: 240 °C
+ Bed: 60 °C
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s (*more specific params left to auto calculation*)
* Travel Speed: 300 mm/s (*max*)
* Cooling fan
+ Initial: 0 %
+ Fan Speed: 100 %
* Retraction
+ Distance: 5 mm
+ Speed: 50 mm/s
* Skirt min length: 250 mm
I was initially going by advice from [Thomas Sanlanderer's video on PETG](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_adY2K-YIc), starting with 230 °C/70 °C, but when that really didn't work, I then tried the advice of a Reddit user (*can't relocate thread*) that said to try a lower bed temp. I then experimented with different bed temps in the 50's to mixed avail. Most other threads are talking about PETG + glass, which seems to work well with a PVA glue stick surface finish.
I'm getting a glass build surface soon (*as soon as GearBest can ship it from across the pond*), and I hear that will help, but in the meantime, I want to find a way to make it work with the fake Buildtak. What can I do to try to make this work better? My thinking is that the issue is with the bed config (*temp, surface, etc.*) and not with the nozzle temp, but I could be wrong. | [
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"text": "Thanks to the magic of r/3Dprinting, I have a solution. [u/Lhelge helped me out with a tip](https://www.reddit.c... | 2018/10/06 | [
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7,127 | Other than the most obvious issue with the filament kinking in the tube, what other issues could arise when trying to print flexibles (*i.e. TPU/TPE, Nylon, etc.*) with a Bowden style extruder setup?
Can the kinking issue be alleviated by a well-constrained filament path (*proper ID*) in a properly sized Bowden tube? | [
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"text": "As a user of an UM3E, which uses Bowden tubes and has TPU as an available material, I can tell you that the kinking i... | 2018/10/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7127",
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7,131 | When exporting an STL from Fusion 360, one must select an STL refinement level to use for calculating the maximum triangle count.
For FDM printing (*0.05mm and above layer heights*), where is the point of diminishing returns on STL refinement level when printing PLA and PETG on an Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle? All mechanical components on the printer are stock.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9cgx.png) | [
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"text": "I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs.\n\nThe refine... | 2018/10/07 | [
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7,140 | I am trying to create a mechanism with moving parts, and would like to see how it works (whether it even works) before printing it.
For example, there's a servo with a bracket, and I would like to see how far can the bracket move before colliding with other objects.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mlheh.gif)
Unfortunately I cannot find any information on how to set pivot points and rotate objects around these points in FreeCAD. Is this even possible? | [
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"text": "freeCad has a draft rotate function in **DRAFT workbench**:\n\n1. Select an object;\n2. Press the Draft Rotate bu... | 2018/10/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7140",
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7,154 | If I have an image like the one attached, what’s the best way to create an accurate depth map of it? I have photoshop CC and 3ds Max, but I don’t know what settings work best with Slic3r. There is a plethora of settings and combinations to choose from in either programs.
Did anyone do this before? If so, can you share your technique?
 | [
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"text": "From a single image from this perspective (front view) you cannot map the coin surface in detail. There is reported l... | 2018/10/10 | [
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7,159 | Assume somebody has a Monoprice Maker Select and has changed from the original brass extruder gear to a [D4 Plus](https://www.wanhaouk.com/products/extruder-drive-gear) one, which is slightly smaller (10.6 vs 10.9 mm outer diameter).
This person might be wondering if he/she needs to compensate for this difference, and which setting that would be in Cura IIIP.
(Have never calibrated the extruder and am still not sure it is absolutely necessary, since the difference in the gear size is only 3%.) | [
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"text": "If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if ... | 2018/10/10 | [
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7,162 | A Monoprice Maker Select V2, upgraded incrementally with a [Micro Swiss all metal hot-end](https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/all-metal-hotend-with-slotted-cooling-block-for-wanhao-i3), machined lever, and [D4 extruder gear](https://www.wanhaouk.com/products/extruder-drive-gear), systematically fails to produce complete prints, as seen below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQC1C.png "Incomplete prints")
The following observations can be made.
* The nozzle clog appears at different heights/elapsed times, so it does not seem to be because of heat creep, which ought to take the same time to take effect, each time.
* All the clogs so far have been easy to clear manually, once the hotend has been made accessible.
* The filament (1.75 mm PLA) is quite new, has only been sitting on the spool at the top of the printer, seems regular in density, is not visibly damaged etc.
* In the original configuration, before the upgrading, the printer worked fine for some months.
One possible explanation might be inconsistent temperature in the extruder, but the display does not show any great variation.
Any other theories? These latest prints were made at 210 °C.
---
The nozzle clogging was verified, each time, by trying to extrude using the printer controls; and then cleaned manually by taking off the "cold end" part, heating the extruder, and pressing the remaining filament out by hand.
Not so long ago the nozzle was cleaned with ethyl acetate and a needle, so I do not believe carbon build-up is the explanation.
Cura settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b6Tz.png "Cura settings") | [
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"text": "The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they... | 2018/10/10 | [
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7,163 | I got my first printer, a [Geeetech Prusa i3](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075FQRNY3/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_3p_dp_1), and for the price I paid (160$) I am so blown away. As I saved so much money, I treated myself to a legit copy of Simplify3D, which I am happy with.
I'm using white PLA filament (supposedly 1.75 mm) with a 0.3 mm nozzle. The hotend temperature range is 215-240 °C and the bed is usually at 90 °C (with hairspray it gives a nice shiny solid bottom surface). My goal is to print with 0.3, or with 0.2 if 0.3 is to big for the nozzle (ideally a 0.3 nozzle can print 0.3 layer height).
**The problem:**
It seems that, especially on the first layer with bigger prints, or any layer that continuously pulls filament through the nozzle (outside lining of a layer), the amount of filament that gets "printed out" isn't enough compared to the amount of filament that is pushed in by the extruder gear. This, in my theory right now, causes the new filament to stay in place until the melted plastic in the nozzle is used, which then makes room again for more filament to be pushed through. Until this happens, the gear slips/clicks and can't pull anymore filament.
The mechanics seem to work well, and I don't think the nozzle is clogged. I would guess that some settings need to be manually adjusted to keep the amount of filament pushed through the nozzle equal or less than the amount the nozzle can actually push through, but what is weird to me is that this happens semi-randomly. I have searched online and the issue intermittently appears with other people, but I haven't found a solution yet.
*What settings would I need to test?*
Here is a link to [some current successful prints and a layer mess up example(batman bust)](https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnDfnxILoXLp9TWV9u0Ue1OEW1cL).
My biggest print so far (Batman Bust) is amazing, but even here you can see certain layers where the gear couldn't push filament through and the gear skipped a few clicks, causing it to print less when it was suppose to print on the following instructions. This happens a lot more, but when it happens during an infill you obviously can't see it from the outside. The individual layer-height seems maybe a bit too small (0.1 for batman), and the times where the extruder usually skips and clicks appear when I print bigger sizes (0.2 and 0.3). I want to start printing more complex and bigger things, so using 0.1 seems like an overkill in detail and takes way too long.
Edit:
My filament is the generic Geeetech white PLA that I ordered together with the printer. | [
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"text": "A nozzle with a nozzle **width** of 0.3 mm cannot print a 0.3 mm layer **height**. You *could* do that but you *shoul... | 2018/10/10 | [
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7,179 | A z-axis homing issue is giving me an ulcer. I'm hoping someone can help with this.
As per usual, after the Z endstop is triggered on my TEVO Tarantula the gantry raises a bit then slowly lowers back down to the z=0 point established by the trigger. However, the gantry is now lowering well past the point triggered by the endstop. It's forcing the hotend to press down into the bed, and I need to reset the printer to avoid any damage.
I'm at a loss to understand why, and it's making re-leveling the bed impossible. Once I have the bed leveled, an auto home grinds the hotend into the bed.
I've done some cable management in the past couple of days but everything is connected where it should be. The endstops are responding, I've even manually triggered them so I know they're working, but the Z refuses to stop where it should.
I've printed at least once since organizing my cables but the bed wasn't level and then I noticed this issue when homing the Z for re-leveling.
For context, I've had several projects print successfully recently so things *had* been working fairly well. I haven't made any changes to the Marlin software since originally setting it up months ago. I had been poking around in some settings on the unit but I'm quite sure I reverted everything I tweaked. Regardless, I can't seem to find the menu I had accessed before, and I don't think I've ever had the TEVO successfully save any customizations made via the LCD interface anyway. | [
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"text": "The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops.\n\nAs t... | 2018/10/14 | [
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7,188 | I've been printing PLA on a Pegasus 12" for 2 years. Print quality has been great but in the last few months the quality of the prints has deteriorated. After looking into it, it seems when the head moves away from the spool and puts the filament in tension (and pulls on the spool) the extruder cog slips on the filament.
That results in traces where no plastic gets extruded the furthest away the head moves from the spool (the spool is on the left in the picture below):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0W9DA.jpg)
The cog slipping can be seen between 0:22 and 0:27 on the video below: the cog on the right spins continuously but the ball bearing on the left stops spinning for 5 seconds.
<https://photos.app.goo.gl/cTfySUgXDy1XKXGv8>
The end result is a part with multiple gaps, especially on the side farthest away from the spool.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX4eJ.jpg)
I've cleaned the teeth of the cog (removed plastic dust) to improve traction but that didn't solve the problem. I've also tried to clean up the extruder by inserting a wire from the hot end side, no improvement in print quality.
Any ideas on how to fix that slipping problem?
**Edit with solution:**
=======================
To complement Oshac's answer below, here is what I've done that fixed the problem: it turns out the issue was coming from a lack of friction on the filament. To increase the friction, I've slipped a pair of 0.25mm thick pieces of plastic sheet between the bearing axis and the mount. See pic below.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXw36.jpg)
That increased the force on the filament enough to fully solve the slippage problem. The print quality is perfect now (see pic below).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KqbYo.jpg)
The plastic sheet trick is just a short term fix. I'm going to try swapping the drive gear for a slightly thicker one and contact MakerFarm to see if there is any long term modification they recommend. | [
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"text": "The soldering in the Tevo components is very low quality as I replaced/resoldered most of the end-stops.\n\nAs t... | 2018/10/16 | [
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7,194 | I have an SLA printed part I want to put a brass threaded insert in using a soldering iron. The insert is slightly larger than the hole so I would assume the edge will melt and re-freeze around the teeth. Are there any issues with melting SLA or this idea in general? | [
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"selected": true,
"text": "The plastic used in SLA printing is what is known as a *thermoset* plastic, as opposed to the *thermoplastic*... | 2018/10/17 | [
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7,201 | My Anet A8 was working and printing great until my hotbed connector snapped and shorted out my motherboard. After replacing the connections to my hotbed and my motherboard I can't print anything because the filament flow is very inconsistent. It often laying down nothing. See my included picture.
I've tried a bunch of suggested calibration settings but none of them worked:
* increased extruder temp,
* decreased speed,
* increased flow,
Any ideas or thoughts would be great.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzZwN.jpg) | [
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"text": "*Please note that the problems you faced are typical for the Anet A8, the connectors are underrated for the applicati... | 2018/10/18 | [
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7,202 | I just assembled a Prusa i3 MK3 and went through the calibration process, but when I print the first layer doesn't look good and my prints come unstuck from the bed. I think it might be Z height but this was as high as I could put the probe without the paper moving on the calibration test. The layers after the first few look good but then the print either warps or comes unstuck and moves.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdidQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4voqC.jpg) | [
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"text": "Judging by the images you posted in your question, the first layer distance is too far away from the bed for the curr... | 2018/10/18 | [
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7,207 | How can I achieve keeping the motors active during pause to avoid moving their position during filament changes? I have changed the filament during some prints to change the color or to change the a newer spool, but sometimes the X axis is moved during the change. I'm now using some cloth clips to prevent moving during this change.
To pause the 3D printer I'm using the LCD menu ->pause, then I go to Move axis X, then I move close to 0. This change is manually and random since I don't know when the old filament reel is going to finish. The printer use Marlin as firmware with Ramps 1.4 | [
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"text": "I have not tried this, but you could use the `M84 S0` command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state.\n\n... | 2018/10/18 | [
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7,217 | I have a long print that keeps aborting. At some random point mid-print the printer says "Click to resume...". There is nothing in the G-code that asks for user confirmation. What could it be that triggers this? I noticed that sometimes (not every time) there is a blob of plastic in the way that should not be there.
On one occasion, after the "Click to resume...", the LCD showed the message `FY178.N16466` and again waited for a click.
The printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin 1.1.9. Slicer is Cura. I am printing via USB from Cura directly.
This is the error message:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXdNc.jpg) | [
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"text": "*This is not an answer/explanation per se, but it might help you track down the cause.*\n\n---\n\nIt *might* be... | 2018/10/21 | [
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7,224 | I'm at a location where I don't have easy access to toothed belts for my printer (a [RepRap Wallace](https://reprap.org/wiki/Wallace)). While trying to look for some solution, I saw some talk of using fishing line as a belt, along with a log of admonitions of `Don't`.
However, as I have easy access to fishing line, but almost no access to a toothed belt, I was thinking of using multiple strands of fishing line with regularly spaced knots to simulate a toothed belt. However, Google didn't help much with either usage or possible Gotchas.
Is there any possible issues that I may face with this solution? | [
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"text": "I’m going to recommend not using a fishing line with knots. Probably the biggest problem you’ll have using... | 2018/10/22 | [
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7,228 | With respect to [Himanshu's comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172/dual-extruder-clogging-problem#comment11340_7172) about applying a lubricant to PLA filament, and then having read the Reddit thread, [Seasoning all-metal hot ends with oil?](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/52xjcg/seasoning_allmetal_hot_ends_with_oil/), pointed to in [0scar's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7172/dual-extruder-clogging-problem/7181#7181), I was wondering if any studies have been done on the topic?
If so, what is the general consensus? From the Reddit thread it seems as if the better quality branded hotends, such as E3D do not require it, whereas the older, or less well finished clones, may well benefit from such treatment.
In addition, which oil is preferable, animal, vegetable or mineral? Is vaseline a good idea?
Also, would the advice differ if ABS filament is used, or would the same conditions apply? | [
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"text": "I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say this is probably not a good idea in any capacity.\n\nFirst off, if you tak... | 2018/10/22 | [
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7,229 | I'm having issues with ripples on the first layer of big flat prints. The initial corner of a big flat print is fine, but then ripples begin to form as shown in the screenshot.
I'm just a newbie, so I was thinking they might have something to do with heat or contraction or something. Normally, I use the default and print with no turbofan on the first layer. When I tried adding fan 20% or 50%, nothing much changed (slight differences in the ripple pattern and area, but that pattern varies anyway).
I also wonder if one strip gets bent, then maybe the rest just follow the bends. As far as I know, my heating plate is working fine, has no serious hot spots, and I'm using a high-quality PLA+ filament. I also tried adjusting the print temperature from 205-220 (the range on the box is 205-230). Nothing seemed to help. I am running a default first layer thickness of 0.3 mm because that is supposed to help adhesion (and adhesion is fine).
The ripples look worse than they feel. They feel fairly flat, only slightly rippled, even though they look terrible! (And I don't know what that weird row with blobs is in the top left of the picture. That only happened once; almost like junk was in the nozzle or the feed gears slipped or something).
I'm running a Qidi Xpro machine, Sunlu PLA+ (wonderful) filaments, bed 50 C, print temp 205-215, print speed 30-40 mm/s on the first layer, and first layer thickness 0.3 mm (normal layer thickness is 0.2 mm). This machine has a direct drive with gears immediately above the nozzle.
Does anyone know why this rippling effect occurs, and what I might to do to correct it? Thanks
UPDATE: I'm adding this info here to respond to several comments concerning bed leveling, etc. (Thank you to those who made comments!)
1) I'm sure that the bed is as level as I can make it because I always go through the cycle twice).
2) Regarding clearance, if anything I worry that my clearance is too small since there is a fair amount of drag on my leveling card under the nozzle. So, there is definitely drag on all three level points, about midrange between the lightest drag and the heaviest drag that makes me think I'm filing off part of the nozzle.
3) I do have two nozzles, so I suppose the problem could show up on one but not the other if the nozzles were screwed into the block to give different heights. But the ripple shows up on both nozzles, always in the middle of the build plate, always in the middle of a big flat print. Corners don't usually show ripple effects. I don't want to believe that my build plate dips in the middle on my new machine, either ... :-) Adhesion is fine on small prints in the middle of the plate.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the piece. A careful examination shows an oscillation in the squished filament segments on a filament thread. Almost like the extruder was oscillating vertically in the z-axis at that frequency, or perhaps the filament squishyness was oscillating at that frequency. Looks almost like a weave pattern, since the squished parts alternate position on alternating lines.
It's worth saying again that the piece feels pretty smooth on both the top and bottom sides, even though it looks awful. I don't know what to make of that.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1zZA.jpg) | [
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"text": "1. The first that I have in mind was connected with an acceleration, so you could play with it (set to half the ... | 2018/10/22 | [
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7,264 | I have what I thought would be a simple question.
I don't have an auto leveling probe, I do my leveling manually with 4 screws and a piece of paper (I measured the thickness to 0.1 mm).
For the longest time I would have trouble with the first layer, sometimes having to give the bed screws a quarter turn to bring the bed up a bit. I would see that the nozzle seemed quite far away from the bed. This went on for the longest time and I just chalked it up to the quality of my printer.
I realized recently that when I level the bed, I am inserting a piece of paper in between the nozzle and the bed. Obviously, I should be taking the thickness into account as a 0.1mm thick piece of paper accounts for 50 % higher than the nozzle should be for a 0.2 mm first layer height.
My question is, how do I set (either in Cura or directly in Marlin config) the z home offset to account for the 0.1 mm thickness of my calibration paper? | [
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"text": "It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with so... | 2018/10/23 | [
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7,312 | I'm 3D printing almost 2 years, and I expected to have better result after changing to complete smooth rods with new bearings.
I have a problem with my Z axis giving me inconsistent prints; I already replaced the leadscrews, E3D clone with Bowden tube, I decided to replace all smooth rods on all axis and also the bearings. After I replaced all this, my prints are still bad, also I'm very dissapointed with the results after the replacements. I have checked all I could think of; PID tuning, belts, ....) but I'm running out of ideas.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/33DQZ.jpg)
Printing settings:
* print speed is 40mm/s,
* retraction is 3mm at 30mm/s,
* extruder 205°C for the first layer, then 200°C | [
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"text": "From the pictures can be seen that you have good lead screws as there is no cyclic anomaly/wobble present at the side... | 2018/10/26 | [
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7,315 | I have been running my i3 MK3 for about 12 hours now and the motor on the extruder is fairly hot, not too hot to touch but I'd guess its about 60c on the outside. Is this within normal operating temperatures or should I let it cool down before starting more prints? | [
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"text": "The maximum operating temperature can be found in the specifications of your steppers. Usually the ambient temperature... | 2018/10/27 | [
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7,329 | After building a Delta printer, I noticed that my whole prints are slightly tilted around the Z-axis in comparison to the slicer (e.g. Cura). There is no twist layer wise. This means, the prints themself look actually perfect.
I just don't know what could be the reason of the rotation. I do not believe it is a build issue of the printer, because I tried to keep the printer frame pretty stiff and symmetric.
Could it be, that the Auto-Calibrate Feature of Marlin can add such a rotation?
The picture below illustrates the problem. I expect the black alignment of the print and get the orange one. Note that the print is still a rectangle with ~90° corners.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXiHY.png) | [
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"text": "If I am reading this correctly, your prints are being either stretched or your prints are shifting / leaning on ... | 2018/10/29 | [
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7,334 | As moving the endstop upwards reduces the range of the z-axis, I was wondering whether it reduces the maximum height of the printable object, by the distance the endstop was moved. Or is this somehow (to a certain extent) beeing counterbalanced?
(Follow-up question of [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7332/tevo-michelangelo-nozzle-below-build-plate) question) | [
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"text": "If you move up the end stop such that it raises the nozzle with respect to the build platform you lose height, so basi... | 2018/10/30 | [
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7,336 | I am trying to print a wing for a rc plane with my 3D printer. In order to make the wing as light as possible I need to hollow it (and afterwards put some stable structure there). I've tried the Blender Solidify modifier to do this but without success. The material on the sharp edge on the rear part of the wing gets thinner and thinner although the "Even Thickness" option is checked (see picture). When preparing this for printing, the slicer puts only one line of filament there instead of two. What I need is a brim on the inner side of the stl file with a constant spacing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUo9C.png)
I've also tried the Meshmixer Hollow and Extrude modifiers. They both had problems with those sharp edges (see picture).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPNym.png)
The third program I've tested was FreeCAD. But it crashed at all :-(
Can someone please help me? I would appreciate any suggestion or other programs which can handle this problem. Remodeling is no option for me as I have even more complex objects to hollow for example the fuselage.
The stl file of the wing can be found here: <https://files.fm/u/5futezwj>
Thanks so much for your help! | [
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"text": "Don't design your part as hollow. Make it solid. Then put it in the slicer and chose the infill (i recomment cubic ... | 2018/10/30 | [
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7,344 | A while back, I had worked on building a [Yostwerks Sea Cruiser](https://biber-boote.ch/yostwerks/SeaCruiser.html). Now I'm thinking of trying to create a 3D printable (or 3D millable) version of the plans.
The original design uses cross-sections cut from a half-inch thick HDPE sheet. However, I am considering changing this out for one of the easier to print materials, but I cannot find any comparative information about stiffness of HDPE versus other 3D printing materials.
Can I get a suggestion for a alternative to HDPE that is as stiff or stiffer as well as same density or lighter. The Kayak frame is expected to be compressing the cross-sections.
An example set of cross-sections is as below:
Please note that I have also considering changing the shape of the cross-sections to make stiffer yet lighter cross sections, but that will require some trade-off between portable sized cross-sections versus the stiffness of the cross-sections. | [
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"text": "Because of the inherent nature of FDM, material properties will most certainly be always lower than casted/extruded s... | 2018/11/01 | [
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7,355 | I am modifying some Slic3r config parameters and comparing the results. How can I have two instances (or equivalent: I would like to see two model windows with their associated configuration screens) of Slic3r at the same time? I'm on OS X, but if there is a generic (e.g. within Slic3r) solution that will be preferrable. | [
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"text": "From a terminal window, run the command\n\n```\nopen -n -a slic3r\n\n```\n\nEach time the command is executed,... | 2018/11/05 | [
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7,364 | I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got my first 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro by Creality.
I've tried to find information about the type of nozzles should I look for. I'm trying to find stainless steel nozzles but there are so many models (M7, M8, etc.) and I have no idea what nozzle type I should get.
I've tried searching on Google but the only info I could find is that the extruder is an MK-10.
I am also looking for a heating cartridge for the hot end, but I still cannot find no information about the size that I need (15 mm/20 mm/30 mm). Also looked for info about the heated bed so I know what kind of thermistor I need (I found two types and no clue which one to get).
Where can I find some technical information about these? | [
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"text": "There is no such thing as a single MK10 hotend design. The Chinese aftermarket has mingled the designations.\n\nIf it... | 2018/11/06 | [
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7,372 | I started using rafts more often, to get better results with complex or fragile parts, but my Ender 3 consistently under-extrudes the initial outside line of the raft (for the first inch or two, where extrusion starts).
It is often very thin and does not adhere. This often leads to problems with the following pattern of raft layer 1 curling up (ABS) as it does not meet the edge line (due to the 1-2 inch gap in the perimeter).
Skirts avoid this problem by getting the flow going, but rafts only print a single outer line.
1. Is it possible to specify more than one outer line on a raft in Ultimaker Cura?
2. Is it possible to add a skirt to a print that has a raft (or at least some initial printing to get the flow going)?
3. Is it possible to add some initial G-code that will extrude a line, say from near the start position to the start of the print?
 | [
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"text": "It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root ca... | 2018/11/08 | [
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7,376 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rtG5C.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1oaO.jpg)
I'm getting some slight pooling on the end of straight lines on my Ender-3
Is this due to over extruding? Or some other issue? | [
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7,382 | What are the most common 3D printing file formats, and which one is more effective or used more than others? | [
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"text": "[STL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)) is the standard for pretty much everything out there.\n\nEDIT: T... | 2018/11/09 | [
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7,385 | I want to print a piece of fruit modeled in Blender. It is an STL file.
Please note that I am an absolute beginner at 3D printing models.
What do these red zones mean? What is wrong about the mesh in each case?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGEQe.png)
The fruit has some low-poly seeds. These used to be a particle system but I then changed them into individual objects.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmOfL.png)
This view shows the base of the fruit, why is it colored red? | [
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"text": "3D printers cannot print in the air without a prior layer or a support structure supporting the new printed layer. Fo... | 2018/11/09 | [
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7,388 | I had a couple of recent nozzle/bed crashes, so I now frequently do a manual bed levelling. I do these while the bed is heated to allow for expansion.
Today I found, after levelling, a subsequent print could vary from having too much clearance (paper moves very freely) to less than no clearance (which left deep grooves in the bed as per the photo).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sAZk.jpg "Photo of bed")
What are the possible causes? Is it just a dodgy Z-limit switch or something else? What solutions are available and at what cost? Obviously an ABL seems essential now, but requires a lot of hardware and setup.
It has just happened again so here are some more details.
Printing PLA this time:
* Preheated bed.
* Levelled bed all over and got a very good raft.
* Print failed later so the print was aborted.
* Restarted the same print job.
* Nozzle gouged out a uniform depth trench around print perimeter.
The uniform depth of the gouge indicates a problem related to Z-axis only as the bed remains flat and level, but the height is off. That is to say, the bed is flat and level before and after this occurs.
Please note: I have done over 100 successful prints, prior to this issue, so I do have some knowledge about levelling the bed. I am interested in what could cause such a large variation. Initially I thought it was temperature as I switched to ABS at the time, but it now varies from one print to the next.
The machine is a month old and rock solid. The Z-axis is the slowest moving axis, controlled by the limit switch only, hence my suspecting that is the cause.
I purchased a couple of spare Ender 3's and will update various parts in turn to see what the cause is. The metal trigger on my Z-limit switch seems a little floppy sideways, but I am also starting to suspect the bed springs have lost their springiness.
I have the removal bed version and also a borosilicate glass bed. The glass is perfectly flat and the standard removable is dipped ever so slightly in the middle, but the difference is huge when it goes wrong. As you can see from the photo the trench it digs is quite uniform depth. That's why I keep coming back to the Z-limit switch. I have a spare switch now so will try that next. | [
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7,412 | When I adjust the probe offset to get the proper layer height and adhesion, one side is set right but the other doesn't work. If I decrease the probe offset (say -1.100 to -1.050) the right side seems to print better; if I increase the probe offset (-1.050 to -1.125) the left side will adhere to the plate properly.
Before I added the BLTouch and upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 I was able to print a perimeter square (with a little manual adjustment).
My Printer is the Ender 3 and I am using a [glass bed](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Glass-Creality-Printer-Ender-3/dp/B07DSC9TJQ) and the model is this [centre crosshair](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xVVfi.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBFny.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0usO.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JECOP.jpg) | [
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"text": "I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the... | 2018/11/14 | [
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7,417 | I am trying to add the line
>
> G4 P4000 G1 F4000 E-50
>
>
>
to pause and retract the print in order for the printed line to dry (printing in mid air vertically). Does the above code work or should i skip lines or does it not matter at all?
>
> G4 P4000
>
> G1 F4000 E-50
>
>
>
Would the following line do the exact same thing?
>
> G4 P5000 E-50
>
>
> | [
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"text": "This needs to be on two lines like in your second example:\n\n> \n> G4 P4000 \n> \n> G1 F4000 E-50\n> \n> \n> \n\nSe... | 2018/11/14 | [
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7,424 | Is it a good idea or do I need to calibrate my E steps after I switch to a new filament due to the different types I use (to make my prints accurate)?
E.g. calibrate when switching from PLA to ABS/PETG? | [
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"text": "No that will not be necessary.\n\nHowever, you could use calipers to measure the diameter of the filaments (e.g. at 5... | 2018/11/14 | [
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7,425 | I need help resolving some conflicting logic between the nozzle width and shell thickness--parameters in Cura 16.021--and the physical deposited line width (width on x-y plane).
DEFINITIONS
For clarity, let me define a few terms I'm using:
Nozzle size - nominal diameter of the nozzle / Cura parameter
Nozzle diameter - true diameter of the nozzle
Extrusion diameter - diameter of circular cross-section extrusion upon leaving the nozzle
Deposited line width - width of the rectilinear layer deposited on the build surface **in the x-y plane** (not the z-layer height).
Shell thickness - Cura parameter for part wall thickness
Cura - Cura version 16.021
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBhmE.png)
PROBLEM 1
Physics suggests that for regular continuous flow out of the nozzle the extrusion diameter (cylindrical material extrusion) would be slightly larger than the nozzle diameter, and the deposited line width (rectangular prismatic extrusion) on the x-y plane should be even wider than the extrusion diameter. I'm assuming the deposited line width is equal to the shell thickness as set in Cura. However, I am finding conflicting advice as to whether one should set the shell thickness slightly greater than or slightly less than the nozzle diameter.
In [this post](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/3297-what-does-it-do-when-i-change-the-nozzle-diameter-in-cura/?do=findComment&comment=43605) on the Ultimaker forum, the moderator seems to suggest that the nozzle size and deposited line width are one and the same.
In [this post](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1410/how-does-the-sizes-of-nozzle-diameter-and-the-z-axis-layer-resolution-work) on StackExchange, the discussion seems to agree with my understanding.
PROBLEM 2
A [commonly referenced procedure](https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/) for calibrating extrusion suggests printing a 25mm cube with an open top and bottom. My understanding is that by printing four walls of a single shell thickness, we should correct the extrusion rate to achieve a deposited line width equal to nozzle diameter (Cura requires the shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle diameter) . The problem I have with this is, as stated above, I don't understand a physical basis for targeting nozzle size = shell thickness (deposited line width). I'd expect to calibrate the extrusion to something slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/E04EG.png)
My printing experience seems to confirm my intuition. If I reduce extrusion rate to achieve shell thickness = nozzle diameter my prints appear visually under-extruded with poor layer adhesion. Calibrating to about 110% of the nozzle size looks about right.
PROBLEM 3
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsusB.png)
Although Cura constrains shell thickness to be a multiple of nozzle size, it will not slice thin shapes on the x-y plane equal to nozzle size, they need to be slightly wider. I have verified this multiple times by designing a part in SolidWorks with a 0.4mm wall, exporting it to Cura as an STL, and previewing the slices (using a 0.4 mm nozzle size). If I increase the wall thickness in the model to 0.41mm, Cura will slice the wall. This seems to suggest to me that Cura does account for a deposited line width > nozzle diameter. It calls to question whether the shell thickness is actually a physical dimension for the 3D print or just a parameter for the slicer engine. I have taken it to mean the number of passes around the perimeter in units of nozzle size, similar to other slicers that ask for a shell count.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has put in the time to read this post and kindly share some knowledge.
EDIT 1: My interchanging of terms "width" and "thickness" made it sound like I'm referring to z-layer height. Also, Lrisb pointed out that "line width" is the better term rather than "layer width" so I have updated this. My post is only concerned with the deposited layer width in the x-y plane--"line width". | [
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"text": "There may be die swell, which will depend on the extrusion force, the material type, and the exact temperatur... | 2018/11/14 | [
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7,432 | Given the Marlin Firmware what is the difference between the following lines of code:
>
> G4 S20
>
>
>
and
>
> G4 P2000
>
>
> | [
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"text": "The code `G4` refers to *dwell*. (From what I'm seeing, it can be written as either `G4` or `G04`). `P`is the l... | 2018/11/16 | [
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7,440 | Given a Marlin firmware and a line of G-code such as the following:
>
> G1 F100 X50 Y50 Z0 E-10
>
>
>
What defines the speed at which the stepper motor associated with the E-value is retracting? It is my understanding that the Feed Rate defines the speed of the movement (in this case 100mm/m) but I am not clear how I could accelerate a retraction?
The reason I am asking is that I am not seeing a swift removal of material as i retract. Could the slow feed rate be the issue? I am using a pellet printer (WASP 3MT) and generating G-code from polylines on Silkworm. | [
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"text": "You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While ... | 2018/11/17 | [
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