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How to repair warped sliding door frame? I've got a south-facing sliding door, the frame/track has warped stopping the screen from closing. I've seen replacement tracks, but the issue seems to be that the channel the track should ride in is too warped for a track to sit in cleanly. I was thinking about just trying to cut away some of the warped channel to get the track to lie down. Anyone know of a way to repair this short of replacing the whole door frame? Any big drawbacks (other than appearance) to cutting away some of the warped portion just to get the track to lie down properly? Overhead view: Side View after cutting away part of warped piece, also bows upward: <Q> To me, “a warped frame” means twisted. <S> Straightening the track could be the most difficult. <S> I’d try heating the track so you can twist it back to it’s original shape. <S> I think a tool like an electricians conduit bender will work. <S> (We use it to heat and bend Trex Decking too.) <S> It looks like this and you could put the “warped” end of the frame into it... <S> https://jet.com/product/Greenlee-PVC-HeaterBender/1519c3795e4b4943bccec436d81b0447?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_roc_gen_appliances_a1:appliances_heating_cooling_air_quality_space_heaters_a1:na:PLA_1062463102_53743929562_pla-306111780120_m:na:na:na:2PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=1062463102&is_retargeting=true&clickid=7f0505b1-7b91-4390-9fd6-468b0e8922f7&kclid=7f0505b1-7b91-4390-9fd6-468b0e8922f7&gclid=CjwKCAjw54fdBRBbEiwAW28S9sAKKhrHWzpb6aTbi4bOTQiwt6dy6WvLDGMN5IDvVVJWvS0hC-ItIhoCvVkQAvD_BwE <S> After it’s heated, you could remove any bumps or twists in the frame before you reinstall it. <S> (You may need to drill a few extra holes so you can add a some screws to keep it aligned until it cools.) <S> To keep the threshold watertight, I’d install flashing under the threshold and set it in sealant. <S> BTW, don’t over heat the frame or it will flop around like a piece of spaghetti <S> and you’ll never get it back to it’s original shape. <A> Here what I think happens. <S> Door leads to deck, on <S> heavy downpour deck floods and water works its way under door & frame. <S> The wood swells and pushes door & frame out. <S> Now screen doesn't work because frame and fixed glass door has been pushed out. <S> The only solution is remove sliding glass door frame, re-position and reinstall. <S> I am pretty sure this is the problem with the door I have. <S> Wood may or may not be rotted but I am pretty sure the wood has warped from occasional moisture. <A> As Ed said, the cause of your warping seems to be due to your rotting of your sill support and/or bottom plate . <S> This site already has excellent answers on how to address rotting that I will highlight: <S> You really need to address the source of the water that is causing the rot, else you'll likely end up with more to repair in a few years. <S> Once you've addressed your source, you can either replace the wood or use an epoxy resin to fix the existing piece . <S> I'd probably remove and straighten (or replace) <S> the track as Lee suggested during this step, but you might be able to get away with just shimming it back into place.
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In order to “fix” a twisted frame, you’ll need to 1) remove the track (threshold), 2) clean the track and where it’s placed, 3) straighten the track, and 4) re-secure the track to its correct position.
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Should I cover or move this outlet? I've got this lovely situation in my garage where there's an outlet right above the deep sink, and while I don't have my tape measure handy I'm fairly certain this is less than 6' from the sink, and the washer is plugged into it. Should I seal this outlet off (with a blank wall plate)? If I do, I'll need to use an extension cord to plug the washer in since it's to short to reach the outlet in blue (about a 6' span), or alternatively I could relocate it. Or should I just put a GFCI outlet above the sink or a GFCI Breaker on the circuit and continue to use it? <Q> Current code in many places (ymmv since we don't know where you are) calls for GFCI outlets throughout a garage. <S> (This assumes you don't have a gfci breaker or another outlet upstream that makes your sink outlet into a gfci.) <S> If you don't like the cord looping over your sink, be sure to get an appropriate extension cord. <S> Look for a 15A rating and stay as short as possible. <S> (These often get called "air conditioner extension cords".) <A> NEC Article 210.8 (A)(7) Covers sinks in areas other than kitchens. <S> All Outlets must be GFCI protected that are within 6' of the edge of any sink, and as it was already stated all receptacles in a garage should be on GFCI protection. <S> Although there is no specific code requirement for installing receptacles above a sink. <S> I think common sense will tell you its not a good idea to have one above a sink. <S> I would say this is the intent of the code. <S> You might think of installing a WP cover or extension ring at that location and moving the receptacle over to the washer in water proof conduit and of course GFCI protected. <S> The main idea is to create a safe working environment. <S> Good Luck <A> Junction boxes must remain accessible. <S> You can put a blank cover plate across them, that will be fine. <S> Better to put the GFCI protection before <S> the sink <S> If it's one /2 <S> Romex cable coming in, and one /2 <S> Romex cable coming out, slap a GFCI+receptacle there. <S> Or, you can go all the way back to the panel and slap a GFCI+ breaker there - <S> however these tend to cost a fair bit more. <S> At that point, tripping this GFCI should shut power off not only at the sink receptacle, but also to the wires leading up to the sink receptacle . <S> That way if water is splashed on the box, everything is protected. <S> If that's true, I don't care if a receptacle is above a sink. <S> Use surface conduit to relocate the receptacle <S> If you don't have wall backside access, and want to use that box to bring power to, um, better receptacle locations, <S> you can come off that box with a surface conduit adapter or starter plate . <S> This sits proud of the wall, and gives you side ports where you can launch off with Legrand Wiremold, Rigid, IMC, or plain EMT <S> (depending on the adapter). <S> Then you can carry the wires on a (granted, unsightly) surface-mounted conduit to wherever you please. <S> In conduit, best to use individual wires of THHN (ideally stranded). <S> You're allowed to use whole Romex <S> (sheath must stay on), but that's ...painful. <A> I don't think so. <S> It's above the tap, so leave it in place. <A> Yes you can put in a GFCI receptacle. <S> But remember the GFCI Receptacle you put in will also "protect" the receptacles that are wired "downstream" on that same circuit. <S> (Downstream simply means the receptacles/devises that are going away from, not back to, the main source of the power to that receptacle). <S> This is not too important unless you have a refrigerator or freezer plugged into a receptacle that feeds from this point,(receptacle). <S> You can also remove the receptacle from above the deep sink, install a wire mold extension box and us that extension box as a junction box and run a piece of wire mold down the wall to the corner above the washing machine and install a new receptacle there HOWEVER the same code will apply and it appears as though you may still be within 6 feet of the Faucet so you may have the same downstream issue as noted above. <S> IF the dryer receptacle was a bit higher up, you could do that same wire mold thing from the receptacle to the left of that dryer receptacle, running another receptacle back toward the washer, staying outside of that 6 foot perimeter. <A> These are designed to allow stuff to be plugged in and maintain a mostly water tight area. <S> You'll at least keep your grubby hands out of the power. <S> it could still be a safety issue since unprotected power is in the box. <S> Stay away from extension cords, as most are insufficient for heavy loads. <S> Extension cords are meant for temporary use and can cause more safety issues than that electrical box will. <S> Fire and electrical codes are both designed to limit their use. <S> If you still don't like the box there, get an electrical pro to move it or install one closer to the washer.
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In that case then you could omit that receptacle above the deep sink and make that simply a junction box for the wires if something else is fed from it and cover the box with a blank cover over it. Leave the outlet, convert to GFCI breaker or first outlet in the garage and use a cover like this . I would go to the next receptacle upstream (toward the service panel) from this receptacle and look at the wiring there. From a practical standpoint, a GFCI above the sink is recommended for safety, so I'd change it. There is NEC Article 406.9 (C) which states Receptacles shall not be installed within or directly above a bathtub or shower stall. Do not just change that outlet to a GFCI
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I have 10/3 wire. Can I replace my 3 prong outlet with 4 prong for a dryer? In my house there was a 3-prong outlet for the dryer and when I opened it I saw that there is 4 wires and the ground and neutral are on the same terminal. Can I change the outlet to a 4 prong? The hot wires and neutral are 10 gauge, but the ground is 12. Is this OK for the dryer? <Q> Paralleling neutral is not allowed. <S> Second, go back to the service panel and make sure the neutral is on the neutral bus... <S> And the ground is on the ground bus. <S> Inside a main panel ("service equipment" as NEC describes it in RME's post above) <S> don't be surprised if they use the same bar for neutral and ground. <S> That is wrong to do in a subpanel. <S> Now install the new receptacle in the normal way. <S> Hats off to the last guy for fitting the right cable. <A> The answer to your question is found in NEC Article 250.142 Frames of Ranges of Clothes Dryers. <S> I have taken the time to scan that section from the NEC Handbook which is the NEC with further explanations and examples. <S> As you can see it has quite a bit of detail and the NEC board usually does not address a single appliance circuit as much unless there is a lot of discussion and debate in the community. <S> My advice is to take this knowledge, but use your best judgement. <S> Stay safe <A> As long as you have 3 x 10-gauge wires + ground, you should be OK to put in a 4 prong outlet. <S> The 3 prong outlets were indeed designed to bootleg the ground to the neutral, which was a bad idea. <S> As one website noted <S> So, why did the NEC make the decision to switch from 3-prong to 4-prong dryer outlets in new homes? <S> 3-prong dryer cords contain two ‘hot’ wires along with a third wire that contained both the ground and neutral wire. <S> If a current happened to make its way onto the ground wire, it could travel up to the dryer. <S> The more recent 4-prong dryer cords feature two hot wires, a neutral wire and a ground wire. <S> This eliminates the possibility for a ground current traveling to the machine, as it features a separate return path for unused power. <S> The ground wire is always smaller than the hot/neutral because it's not meant to carry a load like the other wires do.
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Although the old 3-prong outlets were effective at providing power to dryers, they had one major flaw: the ground and neutral wires were grouped together, creating the potential for shock. First, separate neutral and ground at the receptacle, that should never have been done.
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Am I using packing tape wrong? Whenever I get a roll of packing tape, I hook the tape under the little teeth underneath the blade (pictured). Yet somehow, after I rip off a couple pieces of tape, the excess escapes from the teeth and falls back onto the spool, seemingly disappearing . You know this feeling. I then spend a few minutes hunting for the break, and then much wasted tape, pulling tiny strands into medium strands, medium strands into full-width ones, until I finally have the tape pulled back through the teeth. This continues. Of course, when storing my packing tape, I make sure to fold over a quarter inch or so, making it easy to restart the roll. But no such strategy is viable during usage. What gives? Is there some secret to packing tape I am missing? I find it hard to believe that after so many years of packing and taping, run-of-the-mill packing-tape spool manufacturers haven't made any progress in this field. Contrast with Scotch tape dispensers. Simple, usable, frustration-free, for the most part. Sure, they're far from perfect, but you don't get tape fallback every couple of pieces. Is there a similar invention for packing tape? Am I doing something wrong, some secret of packing tape that has escaped me all this time? Please help. I am moving out of my apartment this weekend, and have many a box to tape. <Q> Before cutting, you need to flip it in a way that sticks the tape to those little ears. <S> It also helps to use quality tape. <S> If the tape is crumpling and tearing when you try to peel it off e roll, that is definitely garbage tape, and just as it's side-tearing, it won't hold your boxes together either. <S> The apocryphal source for quality tape of any kind is almost always 3M. <S> It also helps to use quality dispensers. <S> Which those free red plastic dispensers found sonic-welded around the tape roll are definitely not . <A> To supplement Harper's answer there are a couple of things regarding these cheap red dispensers that you may not be aware of. <S> It is necessary to use your fingers to pull out the first short length of tape that then gets pressed against the box at the start of the tape run. <S> Then as you dispense the tape you are supposed to hold the assembly in one hand in a manner that you can apply small pressure in the spots marked as in the picture below. <S> This squeezes the red plastic against the tape roll sides to limit how fast the roll turns. <S> When you approach the end of the tape run you squeeze harder at those marked spots so as to lock the tape roll in the dispenser. <S> This allows you to pull the tape tight and then give the holder a slight twist against the serrated edge to cut it off. <S> If done properly and the right handling the end of the tape is left stick to the two ears. <A> Your cost per foot for tape will be much lower and it is much easier to use.
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Make your life easier and buy a real Packaging tape dispenser .
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electrical fixture replaced now lights dont go on/off I installed a new track light to where the old fixture was.I have power to the light track but the on/ off switch does not work anymore and the lights stay on, unless I turn off the circuit breaker. I replaced the switch thinking it was faulty, but did not help. There are 2 cables at the fixture box with a black and white and ground from each cable. I attached black to black ,white to white, ground to ground wires from track just like it was before.Any suggestions?Thanks, <Q> Wires are NOT color coded as well as you think. <S> However, black-white pairs are grouped into cables . <S> That's important. <S> (I'll disregard grounds; all grounds are ground and all go to each other). <S> One of the black-white pairs in the ceiling is supply power. <S> Black is always hot, white is neutral. <S> The other black-white pair is a switch loop . <S> When the switch is on, the two wires are shorted to each other. <S> The white is supposed to have a marking on it to indicate that it is not a neutral wire, but that was skipped. <S> This kind of lazy installation is what makes color coding so meaningless. <S> Disconnect the wires from each other and check which are energized with the power on. <S> Alternately, you can look for the pair whose resistance changes a lot when you throw the switch, but only check resistance with the power off! <S> The switch-loop white needs to be marked with black tape etc. <S> Code requires we use that one for always-hot. <S> The remaining switch wire (black) will be switched-hot. <S> That goes to the lamp black. <S> So join the black supply wire and the white-tagged-black switch-loop wire with a wire nut, push it into the back of the box, and never touch it again . <S> These two wires never went to the lamp, and would have been joined just this way, <S> so there was never any reason for you to touch it . <S> I understand the urge to learn electrical by dismantling things, but position information is very important in lazy wiring where nobody marks anything. <S> If you want to be the opposite of this, I am a huge fan of marking all wires as necessary so their function is clear, and all like colors can simply be joined to each other. <S> In my world, an unmarked white is neutral, an unmarked black is always-hot. <S> Switched-hots are red, unless there's 2 or more in the same box, then blue and yellow. <S> Two yellows in the same cable are the 2 travelers in a 3-way switch circuit. <S> (travelers are interchangeable and there's no need to distinguish them from one another). <S> The remaining white (from supply) is real neutral to the lamp. <S> The remaining black (from switch) is switched hot to the lamp. <A> I presume that you just disconnected the 2 wires from the old light, and connected the 2 wires from the new light. <S> Did you do anything to the switch? <S> That sounds like where the problem is. <S> Remember, the switch just breaks the hot wire. <S> "ON" connects the flow in the hot wire, "OFF" cuts that flow. <S> I am presuming you have a basic working knowledge of electricity <S> so you know when to turn the breaker off and on or you know how to work with a hot wire. <S> At the switch box---Isolate your black and white wires that come from your circuit box. <S> These should give you about 120 volts when you put your meter on them. <S> Circuit off-connect your black wire from the circuit box to the bottom screw and secure. <S> Now, secure the black wire going to the light to the top screw and tighten. <S> Now you have the neutral wire from the circuit breaker and the one from the light. <S> Bug <S> these 2 white wires together. <S> Everything should work. <S> Note <S> if this is a 3way, you have a runner wire to deal with. <S> Jim <A> I was thinking you might actually have an end of the line switch loop here. <S> If that's the case it wasn't simply three blacks spliced, three whites spliced, three grounds splice in the ceiling box originally. <S> If you put it back together that way, it would be on when the breaker's on, but it would trip with a dead short when the switch is closed, so that part doesn't make fit with an end of the line switch loop; however the switch wasn't working before, so if there's a broken wire in the switch loop, it could make sense. <S> I'd say the next step is to disconnect and cap all the hots, turn on power, and see which is hot - verify whether the feed comes into the switch box or the ceiling box.
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At this point I think your next step is to verify your wiring, because something does not add up.
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Cut rebar in concrete I opened up a hole in my concrete wall to pass a threaded PVC 2 inch male adapter. On the other side there is an aluminum metal sheet. The problem is that I hit rebar and can not change the position of the hole. I just need about a quarter or a bit less of an inch on each side of the remaining rebar to fit the adapter. I tried drilling into the rebar with increasing bits but started going nowhere. A grinding wheel does not fit in the hole, since all I have is a 4 and a half inch disc. I don't want to cut the aluminum sheet on the other side anymore than I have already. I even tried using a hacksaw blade and tried cutting, but it's very uncomfortable and didn't do much. Even tried filling, but it's too thick. The adapter fits in the hole, but the wider side catches on the rebar, so it over extends on the wall. I'm tempted to just grind the excess PVC. Hole Hole with threaded 2 inch PVC male adapter in place Other side with lock nut Any recommendations that don't involve a heat torch to cut a piece. Edit: Bought a Dremel 3000 and was able to cut the rebar. Took a while but worked out great. The Dremel cost me about $61 on sale at Wal-Mart and bought some discs that were also on sale. Always wanted to get a Dremel. No time like the present I guess. Here are some pics. Thanks to all! <Q> A Dremel Tool with a cut off wheel is going to be your tool of choice here. <S> Here is a picture of what that looks like: <S> When approaching a job like this I make sure I have plenty of the cutoff wheels. <S> I also have a half dozen of the mandrels so that I can have all of them with cutoff wheels premounted <S> so it is quick change in the tool when one wears down or breaks. <S> The cutoff wheels come in thin normal thickness and thicker heavy duty style as shown above. <S> The heavy duty ones have to grind away more to perform a cutoff bit are less prone to breakage. <S> You will have to cut the re-bar at an angle as shown on the below picture. <S> It may even be necessary to break a small amount of the concrete on either side to permit the tool to have a better angle of attack on the re-bar. <A> What you need is an oscillating saw, also called a "multitool" and maybe some other trademarked names. <S> They vibrate back and forth very fast but don't move a lot and are perfect for narrow spaces like that. <S> In the linked article below, look at photo #5 to give you an idea. <S> https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/how-to/g830/10-jobs-you-can-do-with-a-multitool/ <S> Most good home center type stores sell these now. <A> You'll be the judge of whether it's appropriate to grind the pvc (it's bound to be easier), but if you have to cut the rebar, my mind goes to a die grinder/ (small d) <S> dremel type tool with a small cut off wheel. <S> For a very small job like this, you might even just chuck a cutoff wheel+arbor in a drill. <S> (Just know that drills aren't really designed for sideways loads, so it's not a good idea for heavy use.) <S> If you don't already have a dremel, it's an excellent excuse to get a new toy. <S> One other idea, and this depends on the rebar being really well set. <S> (ie, not going to move around at all.) <S> Get a metal-cutting holesaw, cut through plywood for a guide, attach the ply to the wall, and cut through the rebar. <S> Repeat for the other side. <A> A bare hack saw blade will do it, with work. <S> Hold the blade with vice-grips; I have had to resort to this technique for automotive work. <S> Rebar tends to harder than ordinary cold rolled, possibly up to twice the strength but a hack saw will still cut it. <A> I think a hole saw will do what you need, the problem is you don't have material to drill the pilot bit into to keep the hole saw on center. <S> There is a trick that should work here. <S> You put two hole saws on the same arbor at the same time. <S> The inner hole saw is the diameter of the hole in the sheet aluminum. <S> The outer hole saw is half an inch larger. <S> That will trim a quarter inch off each side of the rebar. <S> You might have to put some washers between the hole saws to get the inner to stick out far enough. <S> You might have to mix or match brands / arbors to get the right setup. <S> If you can't get a combination of hole saws and arbors that works, just use the bigger hole saw to cut a hole in a piece of plywood, and use that plywood as a jig. <S> Mount the plywood to the wall temporarily to guide the saw. <A> Use an oscillating tool with a blade for metal. <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VJzEF0j0VA
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Just make sure you get the best metal cutting blade you can find for it and plan on going through several blades if the re-bar is hardened, as it often is in vertical walls.
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Can I install a 60A main breaker in a load center rated for 125A? Following my previous question about feeding a sub-panel... I have access to a new-in-box 125A load center, which is more current than I need, but the form factor is good. Can I drop to a 60A feeder wire and breaker setup without running into any obscure code-related incompatibilities? What additional hardware do I need to install the main breaker since this one is "Main Lugs Only"? <Q> Your panel uses what is known as a QOM1 main breaker frame size <S> -- this is standard for Square-D panels up to 125A. <S> While an ordinary Homeline 60A breaker won't fit there, the good news is that Square-D does make a QOM60VH -- so simply install that into your panel as per the supplied instructions, and you'll be golden as far as your main breaker goes. <S> (Some other panel makes would require you to use Harper's approach of using a backfed branch breaker for the main, instead.) <S> You'll also need a PK15GTAL ground bar or two, as this will be a subpanel instead of a main panel. <A> See ThreePhaseEel's answer above. <S> TPE is a panel master. <S> My info is more general to panels at large, leaving it up for reference. <S> You're powering a shed. <S> It's an outbuilding. <S> That means it needs a main break-- <S> I mean a main shutoff switch of its own. <S> Generally the cheapest way to provide a main shutoff switch is to buy a panel with a main breaker in it. <S> Also the most compact (as opposed to a separate shutoff switch). <S> That's not happening with this main-lug panel. <S> You could backfeed a plain breaker, but hold on - Code requires bolting the breaker down <S> so it can't tip out like a normal breaker. <S> Normally, when a sub needs a main shutoff switch, and you use a main breaker for that, nobody cares the breaker size. <S> However, I note that some of ThreePhaseEel's scenarios in the other question call for tapping a much larger feeder, and that definitely requires an actual, workin-for-a-living main breaker. <S> With any panel, prepare for the tiedown kit to glom 2 additional spaces, as many panels have unusable space abeam of the backfed main breakers. <A> Your 60A dual pole breaker will need to be in the main breaker panel to protect the 60A rated wiring you will use to feed the sub-panel. <S> Make sure such wiring has four conductors (2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 safety ground). <S> A panel with "main lugs only" will have a place to terminate the large size wires incoming into the panel. <S> There would not be a main breaker in such panel. <S> The main lugs:
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Yes you can get a 60A main breaker for this panel
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How to get rid of CO₂ in a house with A/C in hot summer? Recently, I've been measuring the CO₂ concentration during multiple nights and the levels in the bedroom where I sleep are very high and unhealthy (over 1600 ppm). I use an AirVisual monitor, which is high precision and catches the trends. I opened the window last night, and that's why the CO₂ is lower. But on all the other days, it's over 1400-1600 ppm. I get a high concentration only when I'm sleeping, so I assume that the CO₂ comes from me. Since the windows are shut and the door closed, the CO₂ gets trapped. The problem is that during the summer, the temperatures outdoor are over 95 F (35 C) with high humidity, and I have the airconditioning running inside. If I open the window, the heat comes in very fast and then the AC has to do extra work, which means waste of money and resources. And it's the same situation during the night. How do I get rid of CO₂ inside the house without opening the windows when the weather is hot? EDIT: After reading all the great suggestions, I have tried a new measurement with the device far away from my bed, so it will not be affected by my breath. I also checked for timers and couldn't find any. Last night I closed the window and the door at around 11 PM and the concentration started to slowly increase. During the night, the CO2 levels increased significantly (see graph below). In the morning, I opened the window and it slowly started decreasing. I have no doubt that there is a lot of CO2 in the room. So my question stands. How to get rid of CO2 or any other gases/vapors for that matter, in a hot, humid climate. Is HRV the only solution? <Q> You want an high-efficiency heat exchanger. <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_recovery_ventilation <S> It's typically installed on central hvac systems. <S> It needs maintenance to be efficient and it is quite often overlooked by contractors as it's hard to notice when it's not working. <A> That's a really high CO₂ level. <S> You need to figure out what is causing it and fix that, it's not normal. <S> Gas fired appliances with leaky vents are the most likely suspects — hot water heater, dryer? <S> (Probably not your furnace, since its summer!) <S> In the meantime I would seriously open some windows and suck it up, that's dangerously high if accurate. <A> What type of air condition are you using? <S> Some only cool the air inside, while others use fresh air from outside. <S> In a cafe or club there are norms about how much fresh air the air condition must put inside during a given period of time. <S> I would suggest the following: measure the CO₂ concentration outside to compare it with your inside CO₂ concentrations. <S> Measure CO₂ concentration on a Sunday while you stay at home. <S> Does it increase the same amount? <S> If it is much higher than it could be just by your breathing, search for other things that may increase CO₂ in your room.
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Basically, you pipe in fresh air, but have it cooled before, while you heat out the air that is going out. Try to calculate how much O₂ you turn to CO₂ while you sleep and make an estimate of how large the CO₂ concentration should be after one night.
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How to remove heavily rusted hinge This hinge has seized so needs replacing. But I can't even see the 4 Phillips screw head clearly, and a screw driver just slips so it's likely stripped. What's the best way of removing these screws? I was thinking maybe use a Dremel to cut a new slot for a regular screw driver but in going to have access issues on the left. <Q> The usual tool to use for this is a screw extractor. <S> The brand pictured has the drill and extractor on the same bit. <S> Drilling the hole is usually the hard part. <S> It may help to drill the smallest possible hole first, then re-drill with a bigger bit, then extract the screw. <S> If you're patient, you can use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel or tiny grinding wheel to cut the heads off, remove the hinge, then use vice grips to unscrew the bits left behind. <S> Rather than cutting a slot with the Dremel, you can try to just grind a flat on the head so you can get a better grip on it with vice grips, but in this particular case it looks like there's not enough room for that to work well. <A> I would just use a hacksaw and cut off the hinge then use vise-grips to unscrew the screws. <A> Using @michaelkaras suggestion I used a wire brush to remove the rust <S> so I could see the slots on the 4 Ph screws. <S> I managed to remove the right rear screw with a Phillips screw driver but the right front screw just cammed out. <S> This was the only screw I used the Dremel on to cut a new slot, and a flat bladed screw driver was able to remove that screw. <S> I then tried a magic saw to cut the hinge off near the remaining screws <S> but it just stuck. <S> But in bending the hinge back and forth it loosened the remaining two screws enough for me to remove them using the Ph screw driver. <S> I double checked, and these are all Phillips screws. <S> No pozi screws even though these are euro hinges.
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You drill a hole in the screw, then use the screw extractor bit in the hole you drilled.
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Why does my water leave this pink film? I have noticed that my water will leave a slimy pink film on certain surfaces like a sink drain, bath toys, or dog water bowl. What would cause this and how can I fix it? <Q> What you're most likely looking at is a bacteria called Serratia Marcescens. <S> According to Wikipedia <S> it is commonly found growing in bathrooms (especially on tile grout, shower corners, toilet water line, and basin) as well as many other places. <S> From that source (and others ), the best way to get rid of it is regular cleaning by soaking & scrubbing with bleach-based disinfectants. <A> I've also been doing research for a school project (relating to reddish and bluish stains on water fixtures) and some sources had said that the red stains are from copper. <S> In other words i'm assuming copper has entered your water through the pipes and the only way to fix the issue would be to essentially replace the pipes in general. <S> Bluish stains resort from iron as well. <A> It is an airborne bacterium that grows in moist environments. <S> This kind of bacteria is harmless and you can wipe it off easily. <S> There is no way get rid of it totally since you can never get rid of bacteria in the air. <S> You can prevent it to reappear often by keeping moist/damp areas in your home dry and clean. <S> Ventilation is key. <S> For things that are wet most of the time like bath toys, dog bowls, etc. <S> Take the time to clean them every once in a while and dry it out completely.
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You can also disinfect areas affected by it by using vinegar and water.
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What breaker configuration does my new on-demand water heater need? I purchased a on demand water heater.my old heater is hooked to a 20 amp breaker(see photo). Do I change out old breaker to a double-pole 60 amp breaker or do I have to move connection to a different breaker? <Q> I don't know what a "double pull" breaker is. <S> There is single and double POLE, and single and double THROW switches (that aren't actually breakers but resemble them - used in transfer switches), but not 'pull'. <S> The breaker marked HW is the right side of a tandem breaker and the left side is the washer (presumably washing machine not dishwasher). <S> It is, in short, a single POLE double THROW breaker. <S> (Although not really - it's actually two SPST switches on a single breaker <S> I believe) <S> What this means is that there are two different lines coming off this one breaker, running two different appliances. <S> It is 110V and can never provide more than 110v. <S> IT IS NOT OK TO REPLACE THIS WITH A 60A. <S> In order to run a 60A line to an on demand water heater you must put in a 220V, double pole single throw breaker which can feed 220V with 2 hot lines to the new on demand heater. <A> At a minimum you need a new breaker, which will take up two spaces, and you need to run new wire. <S> The wire that's in place is likely 12 AWG NM, too small for <S> the much higher current the on-demand will draw. <S> The NEC permits a 60 amp breaker for 6 AWG NM cable; however #6 NM is only rated for 55 amps. <S> If the instructions call for a 60 amp breaker, 6/2 NM is OK as long as the heater only uses 55 amps or less . <S> Hopefully you've already considered whether your electrical service has adequate capacity for the additional load of the on-demand water heater. <S> Your service was installed to supply a certain maximum capacity, with service conductors and main breaker sized accordingly. <S> If your actual utilization was at or near capacity before, and the increased load of the on <S> demand hot water heater puts you over, it's possible a service upgrade is necessary to supply the increased load. <A> The cable to your old heater cannot carry the power! <S> Your existing water heater cable is probably 12/2 (i.e. 12 AWG size wire, black, white, bare-for-ground). <S> Breakers protect wires . <S> Putting a 60A breaker on that small wire won't do. <S> The size wire you need for a 60A heater is 6 AWG. <S> 6/2 cable would suffice. <S> Fitting the breaker <S> In North America, power is split into two "poles". <S> If you use one pole, you get 120V. <S> If you use both poles, you get 240V. <S> Generally big loads will switch to 240V before they start bumping the amps, because that's cheaper. <S> So when you see a 30A or 60A load, it's most likely 240V and thus 2-pole. <S> The existing breaker location can't work. <S> It is a "tandem", "twin" or as we like to call them, "double stuff". <S> You notice it has 2 switches but sits in 1 space in the panel. <S> 1 space only has access to 1 pole. <S> To get both poles, a breaker has to be 2 spaces wide, like the dryer breaker. <S> More on all this in my "what is a double-stuff" answer. <S> You didn't shoot a pic of your whole panel <S> so I can't see if you have 2 empty spaces adjacent. <S> If you do, you can slap in a common $10 2-pole/60A breaker, e.g. A BR260. <S> Otherwise you'll need to use a piece of double-stuff exotica called a "Quadplex" breaker. <S> This fits in 2 spaces. <S> It gives a 2-pole breaker in the middle, and either another 2-pole breaker along the edges, or two 1-pole breakers along the edges.
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So yes, you must move to a new spot - and in fact you must move to TWO spots that are adjacent, in order to get the 220v 60A you need.
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Help with creating a DIY low voltage garden pathway light? I would like to create DIY garden pathway lights from complete scratch. I have some very nice outdoor metal lanterns that I'd like to retrofit and use for my design. I really don't like most of the options available for a variety of reasons. One being that you have to spend so much just for something that will last for years. But secondly, even the very high end good quality light fixtures are not what I am looking for. Plus, for my specific needs I'd like these low voltage LED DIY lights to each have about the equivalent of a 40w incandescent bulb. Even the most high end bulbs seem to only have a 20w equivalent. I know I will need a transformer to plug in, the correct wiring that will go under ground. But I will need to light sockets and the connections to make these lamps. I know this is a lot to ask but can someone direct me on how to learn how to do this? I don't expect someone to type out every detail as to how to do this DIY project. Has anyone ever attempted to do something like this with long term success? <Q> Timer controlled low voltage with LED lamps is the way to go, one reason is that the inevitable failure of "line voltage" temporary extension cords could lead to shock injury. <S> I agree that the consumer grade "big-box" stuff is junk and not likely to last more than 2 years without constant attention. <S> What you need is heavy duty professional grade equipment, check with your local landscape supply house. <S> I like this type because they are heavy duty and manufactured in my area of the good ol USA. <A> Yes, durable, reliable products exist that do the things you want to do. <S> However, you need to actually buy them . <S> Seems like your experiences thus far have been haunted by the spectre of "cheap". <S> And that's because I'm guessing your sources are Walmart, <S> endcaps at the big-box home improvement stores who are selling their Chinese made house brand , and even cheaper Cheese that fell off a truck in Shenzhen (eBay, Amazon Marketplace, AliExpress/baba). <S> I do that myself. <S> But when I do that, I know I'm doing that <S> and so when the thing croaks after 6 months, I understand why, <S> and I know that I can climb the quality ladder and buy from reputable vendors and get vastly better stuff that will last as long as I want to pay for. <S> So design the system right . <S> Use as good parts as you're willing to pay for. <S> When they blow up, own that mistake , adapt and press onward. <S> Nice thing is, this project will be a matrix of many little lights, so you have a lot of opportunity to experiment on a small scale. <S> LED is the only way to go. <S> Again I think your problem is you've only experienced cheap LED. <S> You need to get a good implementation of it. <S> Making a quality one isn't that hard . <S> The problem is, making junk is even easier and so much easier to sell. <S> LED emitters are perfectly capable of outliving all of us, and quality drivers and weatherproofing can be made as well. <S> Don't even consider another technology. <S> LED is the way to go. <S> It actually extends the life of the LED when there isn't a socket to corrode and fail. <S> If you've had short life with those, again, that's the cheap thing. <S> Don't even think about running 120V around your yard in this day and age . <S> There's simply no reason to do that, and it creates some life-safety hazards that do not need to be created. <A> I would highly recommend you make your own if you want top quality. <S> You can choose quality parts at every level. <S> Ex: you don't have to accept the manufactures choice of a cheap connector on an otherwise-gorgeous lamp. <S> You can get high-quality lamps, LED modules, wiring, connectors, and DC power supplies. <S> You can even swap out a white LED for a warm white if the lamp looks alien. <S> If any of your parts do fail, you can replace just that part, and perhaps even cash in a warranty that a maker of turn-key systems would never offer on something meant to be used outdoors. <S> The cost of DIY is a fraction of turn-key too, and that's without even considering replacement costs. <S> Making the lamps is fun and quick (generally) and gives you bragging rights. <S> The other parts will use just as much labor be they DIY vs commercial. <S> I recently helped a friend outfit his path with lamps made from cheap fairy lights, leftover copper pipe and empty wine bottles. <S> Sounds like it would look like a junkyard, but it actually looks great , and he's gotten several compliments since we put it up in May. Total project cost was about $30, including a spool of pvc-insulated wiring (sold for speakers originally), and took about 5 hours to make/install with 2 people. <S> A long-term concern could be the speaker wire, but PVC is tough and my mom has an outdoor fountain I wired with it that's been working for 11 years now; not bad for "scraps".
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LED is definitely the right technology. Good starter materials include candle-based lanterns (cheap), glass bottles, existing (used) lights (which might be broken or outmoded OEM-wise), xmas lights, LED strip, LED COBs (though watch out for heat), and LED fairy lights.
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Can I mount wall 75 inches (50kg) tv on plasterboard? I am going to mount a TV to a wall in my living wall.The only problem I have is the TV weighs about 50kg and I am little bit afraid of hanging this amount of weight on pure plasterboard. Is it safe to do so? TV i am trying to put on the wall: https://www.samsung.com/uk/tvs/qledtv-q9fn/QE75Q9FNATXXU/ The wall mount that I am planning to buy: https://www.samsung.com/uk/tv-accessories/no-gap-wall-mount-wmn-m22e/ I am aware of where the studs are. <Q> To answer the question I would say don't do it. <S> But an easy solution is to determine the width of the studs in your wall and then get 3/4" plywood and cut a rectangular panel long enough so that you can securely fasten both ends into a stud inside the wall. <S> Then you can securely attach your TV bracket into the 3/4" plywood and it should hold up well. <S> Once I actually had 2x4's and cut them to be 17" long. <S> I used 3" screws to secure them horizontally onto the wall attaching them to the studs that were spaced 16" in the wall. <S> I made sure the horizontal studs were placed so that the screw holes of the TV bracket were centered in the horizontal studs I attached to the wall. <S> If you do this correctly your TV is not going anywhere. <S> This makes your television stick out a couple more inches but if you don't mind this you will have a very securely connected TV to your wall. <S> Good luck! <A> If you can position the mount so you can attach to two studs, it will be fine. <S> If you had only drywall to attach to, with toggles or other heavy duty supports, you might still be OK. <S> I couldn't assure it because it really depends on the condition of the drywall, framing, etc. <S> But for example these anchors http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/tech_specs.php are rated for over 100kg pounds <S> shear strength in 1/2" drywall. <S> I'd use a bunch to be safe - I'd arrange them in a "W" pattern <S> And as I said, no guarantee, but I personally would be confident with this mount if the wall is well constructed and in good condition. <A> Adrien has the answer. <S> When the studs don't line up with the mounting holes then do as he suggested. <S> However that said, if the builder of the house had intended this wall for a wall mount television they might have nailed in lots of 2x6 pieces between studs to provide the needed support. <S> A stud finder should verify this.
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If you can position the mount so you can attach to one stud, and use toggle bolts to attach the four corner holes of the mount, that will be fine too.
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recessed led worked fine for 3 months but today turned on today and its blinking on and off; not on a dimmer and not using a 3-way switch help. For the past 3 months my recessed kitchen light has worked fine. Controlled by standard switch. Not a dimmer and not a 3-way switch. Today I turn on and started blinking on and off about 1 sec each. Not related to any other appliances coming on and off. No changes to house electrical recently. There is no insulation around the light either. The light fixture/unit cost about $70 from home depot. It screwed into the old can light socket for easy install. <Q> I left it off a few days and even removed and tested on anther circuit but same blinking problem. <S> Took back to HD given replacement...defective device. <S> Thanks for your suggestions however. <A> It's toasty up there... <S> This sounds like the classic behavior of a recessed fixture that is overheating and thus cycling on its thermal limiter. <A> I have been installing led retrofits in office fixtures for several years , I find 2 failures at this time <S> the light starts flashing or will not light at all in both cases the driver has failed in every one of the fixtures that I tore apart and examined. <S> I have lost or had failures at about 10% of the medium priced lamps / fixtures with 3-5 year warranties and less than 1% of high priced fixtures. <S> I have found that most all the drivers are made in Taiwan or China and the only way to get longer lasting fixtures is to look for DLC listing and a longer warranty.
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Try replacing the bulb with a smaller one, or one that has better heatsinking (doesn't get as hot).
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How can I cut extremely heavy cast iron? I want to cut up a large piece of cast iron (think storm drain cover ) with thicknesses greater than 1". What would be the cheapest way to accomplish this? It doesn't have to be a fast method. Could this be accomplished with: A hacksaw with a special blade? A 4.5-in angle grinder and then finish the job with an 8-lb sledge hammer? A 3-lb hammer, a cold chisel and lots of patience? The profile of the iron is at most 3 square inches, and is relatively square. I want the cuts to be somewhat precise (I'm not just breaking it up to remove it), but they don't need to be clean. <Q> If cost is the only factor, a hacksaw is hands down the cheapest option. <S> It's also the slowest. <S> An angle grinder would be next up. <S> a 4.5" with a diamond blade should do the trick, but the diamond blade will cost more than the hacksaw. <S> Best bet? <S> A circular or miter saw with a metal cutting blade. <A> The grinder offers the best option for getting the cuts where you want them and keeping them relatively smooth. <S> If some of the cut locations are too deep for the grinder wheel then you may have to come at it from the back side to finish it off. <A> It is likely gray cast iron which cuts easily with a hacksaw or circular saw , or reciprocating saw, much easier than steel . <S> (Standard hacksaw blade, start with 18 tooth ). <S> Nodular and malleable cast irons are tougher , but still easier to cut than steel . <S> Not likely to be white iron which would require an abrasive wheel to cut.
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The angle grinder is probably going to be your best bet for making cuts in the cast iron piece.
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can I convert a hanging light to a light with a switch First, I know nothing about electric and will get an electrician to do this.... if it can be done. So guess I'm wondering if it can even be done. I bought 6 gorgeous single light fixtures from Habitat for Humanity. They are on a pole with the electrical stuff/plate on one side and the light on the other side. 38" long, very ornate but newer, not old. There are two wires coming out of the wire side: 1 is just a silver wire with no coating; the other is coated in clear plastic with two brass colored wires in it. I'm pretty sure these originally were hanging from a ceiling. However my ceilings are way too tall and I want to place these on the walls in my living room. The pole swivels up and down from the ornate structure over the plate/electrical so attaching the plate to the wall and moving the pole in the upward position works, it stays in place fine. There are no individual off/on switches on these so I suppose they were connected in the wall someway where on switch on the wall turned them all on. I would like to be able to have an off/on switch on each one. Is that possible? I do have electrical outlets close to where I want to put each of the 6 lights. Two of the walls where I could put a couple of the lights have light switches. One wall has 3 light switches that turn off/on: the lanai light, lanai fan, and the third switch don't know what it's for as can't see anything it turns on. The other wall has 3 switches also: one switch for the entry inside light, one for my front porch light, and the 3rd one for the extended wrap around porch lights. Images added from links in comments: <Q> Something like a 3-gang box with 3 duplex switches sounds ideal for this plan. <S> However, you will have to endure quite a lot of damage to the walls in order to run wiring, and electricians usually don't patch the walls when done. <A> You can convert the socket you plug the light in to be controlled by a wall switch. <S> It's possible that the unknown switch does this already. <S> A wall switch often controls just one outlet on a duplex socket. <S> Doing this requires running 3 wires from the switch to the outlet you want switched. <S> Then you can have a proper cord put on the lights (possibly with an inline switch) and just plug them into the switched outlets. <A> This is a job for raceway of some flavor <S> You will want your electrician to run a raceway of some sort -- either metal conduit or ENT ("smurf tube") if you want the wiring in the walls, or a surface raceway (often called Wiremold™) <S> if you want to avoid having to patch walls when you're done, but don't mind having boxes and such on the walls insteadof in them. <S> This would allow the electrician to run hot wires from each switch to each light individually, while keeping all the hots, the neutral, and the ground grouped together.
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Based on reviewing the pictures, yes, a qualified electrician can easily wire these to be controlled by one or more wall switches.
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Ramifications of adding a second HVAC air return (in parallel)? Years and years ago a HVAC tech told me that one of the best things to do for a HVAC system was to add a second air return. He stated, basically, that doubling the size of the HVAC filter area would make the system quieter and put less stress on the HVAC components. That was years ago, so... Q: In a standard new, stick built home[1] what are the ramifications of adding a second air return, that doubles the filter area, to the HVAC system? Notes: Generally this is easy enough to do for the average home owner and costs < $50 for a “20 X 20 Steel Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter” (see Amazon). [1] Any reputable builder who’s won something like: Professional Builder magazine--Builder of the Year or National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)--National Housing Quality Award Edit 2018-08-27 11:11, Clarifications in reply to comments and answers: Since there are multiple possible HVAC build outs where a homeowner can achieve the same thing, I was trying to not use any one specific build out. As it seems my question wasn't clear enough, I'll add what the 'goal' is (which I should have done originally) and one specific build out for reference. Hopefully that'll make a better understanding? I'm going to also add a second, related question at the end of this edit. Goal : The HVAC change is to allow the homeowner to increase (double) the size of the return air filter area for less than $100. Alternate Q wording : Is doubling the size of the return air filter area, with no other changes, good or bad for a HVAC system? A specific Example : The existing HVAC return air filter is in standard(ish) drywall 'feed' ducting to the HVAC blower unit. In many new homes this return is located in a central hallway, or other central area, of the house and there is plenty of 'blank' drywall in this drywall 'feed' ducting to install a second 'Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter' assembly [1]. Worst case, to see exactly what the drywall 'feed' ducting looks like, you'll need to goto a stick built model home, and stick your head through where the HVAC filter is. Think of a rectangular return duct built with drywall... Two other clarifications: The existing air filter is in a wall, and there is no air filter at/on the HVAC system itself. The new return is added to the existing return 'duct work,' so the only true change to the HVAC system is there is now twice the filter area. [1] I don't know what the entirety of this component is called, it's the steel frame that holds the filter and has an airtight fitting into a wall. A unit that holds a 20x20x1 filter is less than $50 at Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, etc. Second, related Q (feel free to expand as desired! ..might need a physicist, as this is definitely outside of my math skills..): If the existing filter area is 20x20 (400 sq in.), and the builder recommends a MERV 8, now that the filter area is 2 times 20x20 (800 sq in.), can filters of MERV 11 or 13 be used without restricting the airflow below the original airflow? <Q> It is true multiple points of return will increase the efficiency at a very low cost. <S> Here is a common example from 1960's era tract homes. <S> The single air return was normally in the hall way that lead to the bedrooms all rooms had heat registers. <S> The kitchen and living rooms had large open areas that connected to the hall. <S> Many homes only have 1 return, and many only have filters at the furnace. <S> By installing filters at the original return and adding a second return with filters we reduced the pressure drop and kept the ducts clean compared to filtering at the furnace. <S> We started doing this in the late 70's on remodels, it was not that expensive back then, even cheaper with flex ducting today. <S> we started doing it to create a more modern look and eliminate drafts, the clean ducts became part of the resale pitch later. <S> The largest win in my opinion is drawing multiple points keeps the smells in the kitchen... <A> And generally, neither of those things happen. <S> If you have a central return and return ducts (doubtful), you'd screw up the balance on those returns. <S> If you just have a central return, it will be less restrictive and therefor quieter, but unless the ductwork is flippantly undersized (which they probably are, to some extent), the extra work the blower has to do is negligible and <S> not really the fault of the intake size. <S> Is it too noisy? <S> It works <S> okay, right? <S> When you said "ramifications", I though you meant doing it right, which means tearing your house open and adding return ducts. <S> The ramifications of doing that require every trade except a plumber - if you're lucky. <S> And obviously, now you'll go through filters two at a time. <A> I have heard of damage to air handler motors being caused by changing to an excessively restrictive filter. <S> We use the Aprilaire 201 pleated paper filter which is listed as 20 x 25 x 6 inches, listed as MERV 10, but the effective surface area is greatly increased by the fact that the filter is pleated. <S> I could not say whether doubling the surface area would allow you to go from an 8 to a 10 MERV. <S> But going to MERV 11 or 13 sounds to me like a big jump.
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One of the best things to do for a HVAC system is to have it properly sized and balanced. When doing remodels we added a secondary return at the opposite end of the home usually 14x18" if memory serves, this helped to balance the draw through the home especially if the bed and bathroom doors were closed and reducing the draft and a minor reduction of noise at the return.
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How bad is it for my A/C unit if I cut the power while it's working? I have a rental apartment with two a/c units. I installed magnetic contacts on the windows of each room and a small module (a sonoff basic flashed with tasmota firmware) that shuts off the a/c relay (25A) whenever a window is open. It was a proof of concept project which turned out to be a success and it's working great. Now I'm thinking of installing similar modules to another apartments. My concern is, what will be the effect of that (probably frequent) shut offs to my a/c unit.I understand that it's not good for any device to shut its power off while it's working but what's the case with a/c units.I ve seen several similar applications in hotel rooms, are they doing it differently? What would be the correct way to achieve this result if any? Thanks in advance. <Q> You will need to protect against short cycling the air conditioner <S> When you turn an air conditioner compressor off, the pressure in the system does not equalize instantly -- instead, it takes a few minutes for the pressure built up on the high side of the refrigerant circuit to equalize with the pressure on the low side. <S> If you turn the compressor back on before then, this is a problem because now the compressor is trying to pump refrigerant into a zone that's already at high pressure, which puts quite a bit of stress on the compressor. <S> As a result, your device will need to delay a few minutes (3-5 is typical) before allowing the air conditioner to turn back on after it shuts it off. <A> Most AC units today have a timer to prevent the compressor from turning on after a power cycle. <S> I have not seen a larger unit that doesn't have this protection and most smaller units also have this but not all. <S> Yes the fans turn on right away but the compressor may not start for 3 or more minutes. <S> Very high efficiency units that I have installed really don't need more than a few seconds to equalize and only run the compressor based on tempatures and pressure levels. <A> As amplification to the correct answer of @ThreePhaseEel: <S> Decades ago: if an A/C short cycled, the high load on restart would blow the fuse or circuit breaker for that branch circuit. <S> One solution was a Slo-Blo fuse. <S> It would blow at the same overcurrent level, but would tolerate that overload for a short time (seconds?) before blowing. <S> So the A/C compressor could have enough time to get running against the back pressure and drop back to normal current draw. <S> More recently: the A/C can sense that it's drawing too much current and stop the attempted compressor re-start for a pause of a minute or so. <S> Eventually the back-pressure drops enough that the A/C allows the restart to continue, since the current overload is small enough/short enough to not damage anything (even with normal fuses or circuit breakers)
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Killing power it tough on the electronics on these units but turning the thermostat down or off won't cause a problem on these units.
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Help making room on 200 amp panel for 50amp breaker I have got a couple different opinions from electricians and they all tell me something different. One said I could make room by pigtailing and another wanted to install a sub-panel to make room. Their prices were also between $1.5k and $2k. I need to add a 50amp breaker to this panel. What would be the easiest, most cost effective yet safe way to do so? The 20amp breaker on the left highlighted in yellow is not in use, so that can be removed. The two 15amp breakers on the bottom right feed the LED lights in my house, and carry a relatively small load. <Q> I would go with a larger panel, it looks like you could add another quad breaker since the existing panel is a 8-16 <S> but you are out of space again, to save some $ <S> I would add a sub and move some loads over to the sub and feed from this panel that would save some $ and require less rewiring and the need to bring everything up to current code that is usually required for a complete panel replacement. <S> Personaly with the very small panel you have I would bite the bullet and replace it with a larger 40 or larger slot panel. <S> It looks like the existing loads plus a new 50 you would probably be ok with a 200 <S> but we would need to know the needs like what type heating, water heater and range / AC? <S> Is used in the home. <A> You can fit a 50A/240V circuit into this panel, and get rid of the alien breaker (the BR120 in the far bottom <S> left is not approved for use in this Siemens meter main), by replacing the two bottom-left breakers (the half-used Q2020 and the errant BR120) with a Q22050CT, then landing the two existing 20A circuits on the outer poles and the new 50A circuit on the inner poles. <S> But, you'll need to have your electrician check some things first <S> However, this does not mean your service can handle the additional load. <S> You will need to have an Article 220 calculation run on your house at this point in order to ensure that you won't overload the 200A service -- if you charge ahead without this, things will mostly work, but you risk tripping the main breaker due to having too many things on at once. <S> Options for future expansion here <S> While the addition of your new circuit does fill up this particular panel, you are not without expansion options, either. <S> You can also add a panel tapped off of the feed-through lugs in your meter main -- they are the two lugs on the hot busbars visible at the bottom of your first photo. <S> This could be an indoor or an outdoor panel, limited only by the 200A main breaker in the meter-main, although using a sub-200A feeder and panel for this would invoke the feeder tap rules . <A> As mentioned the simplest thing would be to rearrange breakers, with a 15-50-15 triplex you could be squared away quick and easy, <S> but then you are dead full. <S> Another possibility may be to use the feed through lugs to feed a fused disconnect, worst case you'd need to put the disconnect for the charger right by the panel.
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Moving some circuits to the indoor subpanel is an option provided it has the spare spaces and ampacity to support such; even if it is short spaces, the fact it's a subpanel makes replacement relatively easy. A triplex breaker will let you fit the 50A breaker into this unit... If you have additional work in the near future that will require a panel upgrade you might be better off doing that now, but I wouldn't go that way "just in case maybe someday" - no need to open that can of worms now.
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Is this plaster over gypsum wallboard? In a Philadelphia-area house built in the early 1950s: I cut out a piece of wall to fit an old work box. The piece I removed is shown below. The original walls were finished in plaster, but I can't understand what I'm seeing here: There's half an inch of plaster on top of what appears to be a modern-style half-inch paper-faced gypsum panel! Is this consistent with known plaster wall construction from that era? If so, what is it called, what does it consist of, and how was it done? (Exposed, painted face of wall on left:) (The house has gone through various renovations over the years, so there are places where walls are just modern sheetrock. But I can't imagine somebody putting up gypsum and then plastering over it!) <Q> It represents a transitional stage between traditional wood lath and plaster to modern drywall techniques. <S> You'll probably find metal lath at inside corners and metal corner bead at outside corners and door openings. <S> The gypsum panels are 18 or 24" high. <S> I owned a home with exactly that in it for 17 years and consider it to be the best wall treatment ever devised due to its strength and durability, along with the fact that it can be easily cut to, say, add an electrical outlet. <A> The term for that drywall like product to my knowledge has been called "rock lath". <S> All the demo I have done in remodeling <S> , the sheets are/were 3/8" thick and 16" tall by 4 ft. <S> wide. <S> Before rock lath come along, wood lath was installed on the walls as 4 ft. <S> long by approx 1 1/2" strips. <S> It was nailed up in sections that were 16" wide. <S> The picture below illustrates this even though it is a ceiling. <S> It gets the idea across. <S> The rock lath was installed in much the same way. <S> Some of the makers of it added holes through the rock lath so the plaster would "key in" the same way the spaces the wood lath allowed. <S> The layers you see are the "brown coat" (even though this is gray) and the white coat on top. <S> White coat is the actual plaster surface that is painted and very durable. <S> The brown coat, to my knowledge is not plaster, but a portland cement based product used to flatten the walls. <S> Older versions on the east coast would have been different, that is how the term brown coat came to be. <S> The rock lath is installed much the same way the larger drywall sheets are done these days with nails. <A> But I can't imagine somebody putting up gypsum and then plastering over it! <S> There is a wall finish type called "Plaster Veneer" which is just this. <S> My house (in New England) is done this way. <S> The walls are typically roughed with a gypsum board with a moisture absorbent paper, (sometimes called blueboard) then skim coated with about an 1/8 inch of veneer plaster. <S> The result is a wall surface that is not soft like paper coated gypsum board that has simply been painted. <S> It resists the kind of denting that soft board would get from bumping. <S> It takes wall paper paste well, and can be easily stripped and/or painted. <S> The finish plastering is an art that requires some skill, and the result feels quite smooth to the touch, but has natural variations in the surface flatness due to the hand tooling. <S> Wikipedia - Plaster Veneer CertainTeed brand veneer plaster base drywall <S> Veneer Plaster bag sample <A> Believe it or not, drywall goes back to 1916. <S> At the time, plaster was considered the superior product . <S> I found this article which describes your scenario With all its uses and benefits, why were builders hesitant to use something as simple as drywall? <S> At the time, drywall was thought of as a cheap fix, with none of the fine art associated with making plaster. <S> People didn't want to live in homes that were shoddily constructed, so they stuck with the tradition and expense of plaster. <S> While drywall became the preferred material after World War II, it's not hard to see someone with money (and old-school thinking) in the 50's wanting plaster <S> so you get this strange inversion, where they put the cheaper drywall under the plaster. <A> I've ran into this now twice on two different remodels. <S> One was a 1960's era basement bathroom <S> and I thought it was totally strange the first time finding it. <S> Each was 16"x 1/4ish rock lath on the studs and then about 1/2" of sand plaster with a smooth top coat. <S> We attempted to cut out for a new door to reuse it to cover where we moved the old door from. <S> The 16" widths of this failed as the wall came down accordion style folding at every 16". <S> Next week we should be back to normal 1890's lath and plaster with a total gut. <S> I hope it's not this crap because the metal mesh that they use makes for very painful cuts.
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The plaster is installed the same way it is done with the wood lath with the exception of the "scratch coat" needed for wood lath. This was done over the whole wall or ceiling, so that each 16" X 4' section was staggered over the preceding section below. I found that I could patch with 1/4" drywall stripped on studs and then 1/2" or 5/8" drywall on top to match up the thicknesses. Nevertheless, the older scratch coat, brown coat and white coat all make up a plaster wall. Then I just ran into it again at my daughter's 1940's built house when we remodeled their Kitchen, Dining and Master Bedroom Closet. What you see there is a hybrid gypsum/plaster from the 1950s. I have also seen rock lath without these holes.
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How to repair this hefty wooden fence gate? Our place has a large wooden fence and gate. There's a gate for people, and then the fence itself can actually be opened by pulling up a latch from the ground. The gate for people ("door"?) has become unhinged this year and I want to figure out how to best repair it. Photos below to show damage: Here's the gate itself. The hinge at the bottom-left is where the damage is. Close up of the bottom hinge's current condition. Another view of that busted bottom hinge. It looks like the hinge itself is undamaged, and it's simply that the screws lost their bond with the wood, either due to the wood deteriorating and/or too much force on those screws. That bottom horizontal 2x4 is pretty solid (aside from the torn up screw-holes). I'm thinking to reconnect the bottom hinge back to that same horizontal 2x4 with longer screws and in slightly different screw holes. I'm not sure how to avoid the same problem happening again however. Should I first beef up the bottom horizontal 2x4 by screwing in another piece of wood on top of it (but that would tilt the door)? Should I add another hinge, but where (there's no horizontal 2x4 in the middle, and if I added one, it wouldn't extend across the door)? Can I add another latch on the right side of the door to take off some pressure from the hinges when it's closed? Currently, when the door is closed it leans against the 6x6 beam it latches to, and when the door opens it has to be held up by the user or its latch-side will scrape against the ground. I presume both of those things happen because of the broken hinge. Note that the 6x6 beam the door latches to is starting to bow a little bit, as are other 6x6s supporting this fence/pavilion ( similar to this ). We've asked carpenter and engineer friends about it and they said those posts should be OK for quite a while, but it does worry us (they're big, and all this wood is heavy and on one end attached to the house itself!) I share all that in case it affects options for supporting the gate. <Q> The hinge is damaged, it's bent. <S> You should either bend it straight or get a new one. <S> The hinge has three holes for screws your only using two of them. <S> That's putting extra stress on the two that you are using which is probaly why they pulled out. <S> Hard to tell from the picture how bad the wood is split. <S> I would not try to add any wood, if anything perhaps replace the bottom horizontal piece if it's split badly. <S> You should be able to find decorative ones that match. <S> Someone else may come along with a better answer. <A> You may need to through bolt the bottom hinge. <S> I can't tell if the gate is dragging when opened even grass <S> puts a huge strain on the hinges especially the bottom one. <S> If dragging this will pull the lag screws over time but through bolts will hold longer. <S> Once the hinge attachment point is repaired if the top of the gate is still hitting I would add a steel tensioning cable with a turnbuckle to tension where the current 45 brace is (do not remove the brace) add the remaining cable and tighten to square the gate and that should solve the problems. <S> I would agree with your friends the posts should be plenty strong to support the gate. <A> I would remove the entire gate and rebuild it with a new 2x4 frame. <S> When rebuilding, I would switch the direction of the diagonal brace, so it extends from the latch down to the lower hinge. <S> Carefully remove each fence board and hammer the nails out. <S> Build a new 2x4 frame, attach the fence boards to the frame with exterior screws. <S> Bend the hinge back into place and rehang the gate. <S> You can probably save the existing gate with some through bolts and tensioning cables as @EdBeal suggested, but it probably would not look as good as a new gate. <S> Price would be similar a new PT 12' 2x4 vs the steel tensioning cable.
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If it was my gate I would drill holes all the way through and use a nut and bolt as opposed to wood screws to re-fasten the hinge.
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Help with lights flickering at weird regular interval Lights flicker for ~17 seconds at 1 flash/sec, then normal for ~23 seconds. This cycle repeats itself continuously. The video starts with the 23 second "normal" period, followed by 17 seconds of flickering, and shows 2 cycles. May need to turn screen brightness up, but if you watch closely the flashes are evident. Context about my home's electrical system: video is of ceiling light flickering is not isolated to a single circuit. Occurs in bedroomcircuit, bathroom circuit, kitchen circuit (fridge light),outside garage light, and floor lamps plugged into outlets 1950's house, copper wiring, no ground on most circuits except forkitchen. Location is in Indiana, USA In Jan 2018, recently after purchasing house, I: installed GFCI outlets at the head of each circuit to conform with NEC code for having 3-prong (grounded) outlets on wiring with no ground. replaced all other normal receptacles and switches replaced all lights with LEDs flickering phenomenon only started about 4 months ago, well after I made above changes I have a single dimmer switch for kitchen ceiling light, which is LED. Both dimmer switch and LED claim compatibility with dimming functionality. Oddly enough, this light doesn't flicker, at least not strongly enough that I can perceive it 100 amp service Things I've tried already: Had utility company replace connections to weather-head due toimbalance on legs of main coming into panel. Flickering was occurringbefore this, and this did not solve. Asked utility company if transformer was sized appropriately/working correctly. Technician said yes, but also didn't climb pole to inspect transformer. Inspected breakers on all circuits. Replaced some that I thoughtcould have poor connection, but flickering continued. Inspected panel for any loose connections at bus bar, tightened a few, but found nothing suspect I'm fairly handy, an engineer, and confident in my ability to troubleshoot without getting myself electrocuted, but I'm out of ideas. Any thoughts? Link to video Panel model info: <Q> I had strange flickering in the past (but not quite with the strange periodicity you are), and this is how I found the device(s) that was dirtying up the power for my whole house: <S> Go to the breaker and shutoff all but <S> one of the flickering circuits Did the flickering stop? <S> if yes : <S> One by one turn each circuit back on until the flickering returns <S> Once flicking returns you now know which circuit contains the device causing the problem (the last one you turned on). <S> One by one, unplug/unscrew each device/bulb from the circuit until the flickering stops if no: <S> Turn off the circuit, and switch on a different one that you had noticed flickering on <S> If the flickering is gone, it was due to a device in your home, proceed to step 3 to isolate the device. <S> If you are still experiencing flickering, it is likely due to a problem your electrical carriers equipment. <S> Call them and let them know you've isolated the problem to something on their end. <A> It's the toaster oven cycling. <S> My Breville does that, whole house has LED bulbs that only flicker when oven is on. <A> I have this problem, it seems that power fluctuations can be common. <S> Unfortunately with LED bulbs in particular they are incredibly sensitive to slight variations in power / voltages.
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If this isn't a wiring problem and the flickering is once every minute or so - like mine, just swap the LED bulb for a dimmable LED bulb. This can be caused by a central heating system turning on or off, or an oven or something else. In my case I am suspicious that it's something going on with the meter.
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A guest pushed in my shower wall tile. How can I fix it? Some guests stayed over at our house a couple days ago and one accidentally leaned a little on the shower wall. Leaving behind a gap between what seems to be the drywall or backing and the actual tile! Now we’re not up to the idea of spend hundreds on tearing it down and replacing it. So is replacing it necessary or can we just fill in the cracks with grout filler or cement? Is this an option. <Q> So you have two options here <S> Whistle past the graveyard and caulk it up good. <S> It will fail at some point, but maybe not today? <S> (I don't really suggest doing this) Rip it down and fix it. <S> Because you should never be able to do this to shower tile . <S> You have serious issues. <S> My bet is they didn't put the backer board up correctly (or support it with, say wood behind it) and just tiled straight to back board as a quick fix. <S> 1/4" backer board would break this easily AND in the way you show. <A> In any case it needs to be demoed and redone. <S> If the tub or shower bottom is placed so that the wall must be single layer (green wallboard or cement board), it might be a good idea to put blocking between the studs. <S> Maybe 2x4 blocking at shoulder height and 2x8 <S> blocking centered at 36" above the floor for future installation of grab bars. <S> A 42" long bar horizontal on the long wall is useful even for young and mobile users, and a 24" long bar horizontal on the end wall helps with ingress and egress of a tub shower. <S> EDIT <S> I have seen one shower redo in which the original backer was 1/2" standard drywall, but the redo under the new tile was a single layer of cement backer board of thickness slightly less than 1/2". <S> In this job the tile used in the shower walls was left over porcelain floor tiles 18" x 18" so much stronger than standard bath wall tiles. <S> (It was certainly a pain to drill through.) <S> The original drywall was removed up to where the tile stopped and shim stock was placed on the edges of the studs so that the outer surface of the new backer lined up with the 1/2" drywall above it. <S> But the blocking for grab bars was put in before the shims and was lined up with the studs. <S> I don't remember if shim stock was placed on the blocking so, between the studs, there was, or could have been, a slight gap between the backer and the blocking. <S> Some years later I installed grab bars with screws into the blocking and had to be careful not to screw in too tight. <S> I later realized I could have squirted silicone caulk onto the holes in the tile to overflow into the air gap and so provided support for the grab bars. <A> Since the base buckled it probably is sheetrock. <S> Many homes with tile have inferior backing like sheetrock, if not regularly sealed moisture gets to it <S> and it starts to fall apart. <S> Could you repair it? <S> In my opinion repairs on this will only last a short time at best as the base is already comprised. <S> At a minimum if trying to repair the damaged backer needs to be removed to the stud on each side of the damaged area. <S> Install a new backer and clean and reuse the tiles. <S> I have also seen new tiles used as accent strips at top and bottom of tiled areas when this happened to do it on the cheap but still flip the home quickly.
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Being in the middle of the wall it will be tough to match but can be repaired, however I would recommend a complete replacement and you won't be going back in in a year or 2 patching another area. Unless the person was huge and really slammed into the wall, this damage is evidence of a seriously substandard shower wall. The cost of installing a new backer and tile can be done for much less than 1k and less than 500 depending on the type of tile as a DIY project.
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Cutting ceiling joist for attic ladder install Looking to take advantage of some open space in our attic and want to install an attic ladder. This would require cutting some of the ceiling joist. Before I do can anyone help me answer the following questions: 1) Can the joist be cut to make room for the attic ladder. 2) How much weight could the ceiling joist hold Some details: Single story house built in the 1940s Ceiling joist are 2x4 Ceiling joist are support by a wall that runs roughly down the middle of the house Hopefully the attached pictures provide additional info. <Q> Yes, you can typically cut through joists, but you must make some additions known as trimmers and headers to the framing as well. <S> Like this... <S> Note that the trimmers run the whole length of the joists in place. <S> The ceiling joists will not hold much weight being only 2x4’s. <S> I would not expect to be able to install plywood and flooring and walk around up there, but you could possibly store some lightweight things at the edges of the space and over the wall below. <A> I would not put the attic stairs/ladder assembly opening at right angles to the ceiling joists. <S> You potentially compromise too many of the rafter cross ties by doing that. <S> Instead you should place the cutout opening inline with the ceiling joists/rafter ties. <S> This way you only need to cut one of them to make the room for the rough framing opening. <S> As evidenced from your pictures of the attic area, your roof support structure is not created from engineered trusses. <S> Instead you have open rafters that depend almost completely on the rafter cross ties to triangulate the rafter structure and keep the building side walls from spreading out at the top due to roof loading. <S> This is the reason why you want to minimize the number of these cross ties that you end up cutting into. <S> This also means that you may need to be a bit more flexible as to where you locate the rough opening relative to what is built below the attic ceiling. <S> It is often considered optimal to place the attic stair access in a hallway. <S> That may end up placing it in the ceiling of a bedroom for example. <S> Another thing to consider is to make sure that you are able to orient the attic stair so that it comes up at its top in a location that has plenty of head clearance under the rafters. <S> This may very well mean that the top of the attic stair needs to face toward the center of the building structure where there is the greater overhead clearance to the rafters. <A> Similar to @paul's answer to your first question, but some additional information taken from this: If header spans a space less than 4ft, a single header can be used(as opposed to double), and it can be end nailed to the trimmerjoists. <S> If header spans 4ft or more, headers and trimmers must be doubled. <S> Doubled trimmer joists must be nailed together with two 16-penny nails every 16 inches <S> Doubled headers spanning up to 6ft can be end-nailed. <S> Beyond 6ft, use hangers. <S> Tail/cripple joists over 12ft should have hangers. <S> If double trimmers must be used, they need only extend from the outside edge of the nearest load-bearing wall to the outside edge of the other nearest (in the opposite direction) load-bearing wall. ... <S> Update - I found applicable code here: https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018P3/chapter-8-roof-ceiling-construction#IRC2018P3_Pt03_Ch08_SecR801 <S> Use your browser's search function to find "R802.9 Framing of openings"
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The consideration of the rafter tie direction and subsequent placement of the attic stair location may very well place some constraints on where the stair opening can be located.
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Should I install an air conditioner pad on existing unit? In budgeting time and money for a house I just purchased, the inspector noted that the central air conditioner is mounted outside without a pad underneath. The unit is a Carrier 38CKC024330, manufactured in 1999. The product data I found online lists using a unit riser (a.k.a. pad) as 'Recommended.' I live in the Midwestern United States, which enjoys high humidity and harsh winters. I'm not sure how good the drainage is in the area of the unit, but it is mostly sheltered by the eave of the roof. Given the age of the unit -- both how it may be nearing end of life, and how it has survived this long like this -- is it worth installing a pad underneath? Are there alternative techniques, say digging out a perimeter around the unit and filling it with gravel? <Q> Most units require a pad when installed . <S> at the age of the unit I would probably not try to put a pad underneath as this may create a leak. <S> In 99 the common refrigerant was R22 and the cost of a recharge if a leak is created may cost close to $1k as r22 is being phased out and local shops in my area charge 100 per pound.gravel around the unit could keep grass or weeds from growing close to the condenser coil but at this age I would not want to move it but want to keep it clean so it will last as long as possible. <A> In Florida we call them hurricane slabs. <S> I have been in air conditioning industry for 25 years. <S> I believe a slab (what ever anyone wants to call them) is a good idea. <S> They can help keep the bottom of the condenser from rusting out. <S> But only install on a new system at this time. <S> It could be rusted out by now. <S> You have a 2 ton system. <A> You can buy a plastic pad mold and make your own pads. <S> The pads or slabs can be used to support air conditioners or generators.
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Whenever you need a pad you can simply fill the mold with concrete and wire mesh and make one. Don't try to have someone left unit to install, it may cause damage to the unit. You have a old system, get an installer to replace it.
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Garage remodel: can I leave garage door in and put an insulated wall in front? doing a garage remodel and wondering how best to keep the garage door on facade and still be able to have A/C in the garage? I live in hot and humid south Texas. Is this a ridiculous solution to cutting cost of new brick facade. Are there any foreseen code issues or issues in general? <Q> There are kits you can buy to stuff into most traditional garage doors and get a decent amount of R value into the door (not as much as a wall, but not 0). <S> If you're wanting to block the door and insulate, you might just be able to rig up some 2x4 framing within the doorway, insulate and do something simple like concrete board outside (I'm not sure if there's any code that would prevent this, so check local codes before doing it). <S> Done with screws, it could be dismantled if you change your mind. <A> I had a similar issue but in a cold climate. <S> I thought about putting an insulated wall inside and under the garage door. <S> making a small space to heat and be completely insulated. <S> In the end, I found it was easier just to insulated the door. <S> you can take off the back panels and spray poly in them. <S> it's not a big job. <S> The major issue i found was having to build a dropdown ceiling below where the garage door opens and being able to insulate that. <S> Depending on the span of your garage you might need 2x6's or even 2x8's to pass code if you have no support in the middle. <S> maybe some sistered. <S> This is going to be costly and you lose too much space overhead as you are already down under the "ceiling door area". <A> I had a neighbour whom finished his garage. <S> He built a wall 2ft in front of the garage door and had the whole garage insulated. <S> Garage door still operated by the opener. <S> That way his garden tools still had a spot to hang up. <S> Probably a bit of framing involved.
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I wouldn't brick the door off since removing the garage door in a permanent way like that might impact the resale value later on.
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How do I mate two 2x6s together to make a 4x6 beam? I need to make (3) 4×6×12 beams and (2) 4x6x10 beams for an acquaintance who is building a lean-to horse shelter. What type of fastener should I use and how many? Must I use adhesive and if so what type? <Q> Keep in mind that lumber nominal dimensions are not actual dimensions. <S> A 2x6 is really 1.5" <S> x 5.5" not 2" <S> x 6 <S> " as the name suggests. <S> So a built-up beam made from two 2x6's is actually just 3 inches wide. <S> If you're supposed to use a 4x6 timber, you might not be able to substitute a built-up beam made from two 2x6's. <S> Using built-up beams made from doubled up or tripled up dimensional lumber is an everyday framing method. <S> The most common way to build them is simply nailing them together. <S> There are different standards for the specifics of nailing them up. <S> This illustration from Details for Conventional Wood Frame Construction shows nails 32" apart in a W pattern, with three nails at the ends. <S> The document specifies 20d nails. <S> Other standards may specify different types of nails and spacing. <S> It may not seem like a lot of nails, and there's no glue, but it's not necessarily better to make the beam more rigid; this type of beam may function better if the pieces are allowed to move a little so that all the pieces contact the material they support. <S> The important thing is to stick to whatever the design intended, and that that design is something applicable codes allow. <A> What you're describing is a laminated beam. <S> Since this is for a horse barn, I'm going to assume you're dealing with pressure treated wood. <S> You'll need a couple of things Construction adhesive. <S> Make sure it's something designed for outdoors (i.e. Liquid Nails heavy duty ) Lag bolts. <S> Use the screw-in types with a washer head (something like this , making sure it's rated for pressure treated wood). <S> Since we're talking 2x4s, 3" lag bolts should be fine. <S> Note that if you want to use deck screws, you can give that a shot, but the lags will perform better, given that this is structural. <S> You're probably not going to spend a lot more on the lags vs deck screws given the size of the project. <S> Place one board flat on the ground and put a generous bead of adhesive on it. <S> Be sure to get as much coverage as you can (i.e. don't have large bare spots). <S> Now place the other board on top and put a few lags on this side. <S> I would put 3 or 4 on this side. <S> Now, flip it over and put 3 or 4 on this side. <S> If you elected for deck screws, I'd put one every 12-16" or so, zig-zagging them on one side <S> so you're alternating them with the other side. <A> Imagine a stack of sheets of paper, each sheet 5.5" x 10 feet, the full stack is 3.5" high. <S> Is that as strong as a 4x6? <S> No, because each sheet of paper will simply bend individually (independently). <S> So will a pack of six 1x6’s or a stack of two 2x6‘s. <S> That's what makes the 4x6 stronger than six 1x6‘s. <S> Howver you may notice that a 500 sheet pack of copy paper in its package has some resistance to bowing out that the unwrapped stack does not. <S> That is because the package holds it bound in a stack. <S> The sheets are not free to slide past one another, so they can't bow as easily. <S> That's what lamination is all about. <S> It keeps the individual 1x6's or 2x6's from spreading or sliding past each other, making them more rigid. <S> Even the aforementioned stack of paper could do alright if it were glued together effectively. <S> The most effective way is to use glue, obviously. <S> I am cautious of gluing to new wood, especially treated wood, because it is so wet internally, and in my experience that makes glue ineffective. <S> I like <S> my lumber dried a year per inch (so 9 months on two-by's, which are 1.5" thick). <S> By the way, four-by's are 3.5" thick <S> so you have 1/2" of thickness to make up if that dimension is critical. <S> However you can also lam with bolts or screws. <S> Now if you want to make it extraordinarily strong, steel is freakishly strong when kept on edge. <S> Consider a laminate of two-by <S> 1/16" steel sheet 3/16" plywood 1/16" steel sheet two-by <S> All tightly bolted together in a stack (gluing wood to steel won't provide very good adhesion). <S> This plays to the strength of both materials, the stiff but not particularly strong wood forces the strong but wet-noodle steel into its strongest shape. <S> And also keeps weight down since the stiffener is wood, not steel.
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You must laminate them together (somehow).
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How to reset the breaker on this smart dimmer light switch (switched receptacle)? My condo came with these dimmer switches. You push once on up or down to fade the lights in or out fully, or press and hold to fade the lights slowly, releasing to set the light amount. I don't know the brand. The switches always glow green (not only when the light is switched on). As you'd expect, the top outlet of one room is switched. I brilliantly plugged a kettle into that outlet, which seems to have tripped an internal breaker in the switch. It now flashes red. In an attempt to reset the breaker, I've tried various patterns of pressing the button, pressing and holding, pressing both up and down. Nothing seems to have worked. I poked at the clear peg at the bottom of the switch, but it doesn't seem like it's an actionable button. I have had to reset this breaker once before, just tapping up worked. Any ideas on how I could reset this breaker, assuming it is an internal breaker? I'd also love a brand name and model, or even a manual reference I can read on my own, if anyone recognizes what this is. (I removed the kettle and moved it to a non-switched receptacle.) <Q> It was installed illegally. <S> That's why it failed. <S> Your plugging a kettle in there was reasonable. <S> What's illegal is placing a dimmer on a receptacle , and what happened to you is precisely the reason it is illegal. <S> Now if you really, really want to dim a socket, you can use a magic, specially keyed receptacle that only accepts special "magic" lamp plugs (which you then put on your lamp). <S> That's what they should have done. <S> You don't need to replace with an identical dimmer. <S> The rectangle shape is called a "Decora cover". <S> Most dimmers are compatible with it as are many plain switches. <S> You'll need to decide whether to put a plain switch here; or put a dimmer and the above receptacle kit. <S> Since this is the condo's mess-up, I would ask them to pay for it. <A> It took me a few minutes to find the code reference in the NEC 2017 code. <S> 404.14.E. Dimmers can be used for permanent installed luminaries unless listed for control of other loads. <S> I think I remember leviton or one of the other major brands make a "special" outlet that takes a non standard plug that is listed for use as a dimmer <S> but I have only seen 1 of these over the years. <S> So it is a code violation to have a dimmer on a standard outlet. <S> I looked up several brands of electronic dimmers and the ones I looked up maxed out at 600w with several LED models being under 100w <S> so I think the magic smoke came out of the switch and it is dead. <A> Switches like this do not usually have "circuit breaker" functionality. <S> It's possible though that it has an internal circuit, often called a "crowbar" that protects it's own internal components from permanent damage. <S> If you're lucky, that's the case and there is a "reset" procedure. <S> But without knowing the name of the manufacturer, there is no way to tell. <S> Anything like that would be specific to that manufacturer.
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Switched receptacles for lighting are legal.
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Do you remove an AC Capacitor from the circuit before or after you short it out for safety? Is it safe to short (discharge) an AC capacitor before you remove it from the circuit. Or do you have to wait until after you remove it from the unit? <Q> Always short the capacitor as early into the disassembly process as you can. <S> You may accidentally discharge it when handling it or removing it from the unit, and these components have enough energy to kill you. <S> I make sure to wear jeans and leather boots with a rubber sole when discharging capacitors, and always when it's relatively dry out. <S> I keep my left hand behind my back and short the capacitor leads with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. <A> When you do that, a huge current flows for a very short time. <S> This current is almost certainly far beyond the rated current capabilities of the cap. <S> You may not destroy the cap, but you are overstressing it and shortening its life. <S> I would recommend disconnecting one terminal of the cap first, then shorting it through a resistor applied to both terminals. <S> The resistor limits the current flow, while disconnecting one side prevents you from accidentally shorting/improperly loading your power supply if its still hot or turns on without warning. <A> So you shouldn't need to drain the capacitors, only verify they are drained, which you can do with your voltmeter. <S> If you do need to drain a capacitor, then best practice would be to drain it through a high value resistor. <S> In my opinion the least bad set-up would be two test probes connected via suitable resistors. <S> A chain of ten 2K 0.6W resistors seems like a reasonable choice (chains of resistors have the advantage over single resistors that if one fails it's not a disaster) <S> Be aware that electrolytic capacitors can partially re-charge themselves if they are left open-circuit after discharging. <S> Most capacitors used directly on AC won't be electrolytics though, electrolytics are normally found in DC applications. <S> Unless the capacitor has some kind of connector on it <S> I don't think trying to remove it from the circuit while still charged is a good idea. <S> Too much risk of an accidental short.
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In most cases properly designed electrical equipment will have built-in provision for draining the capacitors. After about ten seconds of shorting, I double-check that the voltage across the leads is zero before considering it safe. I wouldn't short the cap to discharge it.
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Diagonal brace left in the basement by builder. Can I remove it? Replace it? I have a diagonal brace running across an interior wall in the basement, and it even goes partially into the floor concrete. Is this meant to be permanent, or was it supposed to be removed during construction? I want to finish the basement and put drywall there, but this obviously gets in the way. What are my options for dealing with it? (Click images for larger views.) Nail locations. 3 nails into the beam at the top, 2 elsewhere: <Q> The diagonal brace is not secured in a manner to transfer any load at the top or bottom <S> The diagonal brace is not secured to top plate <S> The diagonal brace is not secured significantly to vertical stud... <S> the picture cuts off a portion of the brace that crosses the stud <S> so I’d verify that The diagonal brace is singular <A> That wall is load bearing; it is helping to support the stairs and that landing. <S> As such, it can be subjected to significant load (think two 250 lb guys, plus heavy furniture, for starters). <S> More importantly, it is subject to lateral impulses from people and things going up and down the stairs <S> so it should have lateral/diagonal bracing to help stop "rhombusing". <S> Such bracing will give the stairs a solider feel and also reduce cracking/popping in the sheetrock. <S> There are a variety of metal bracing products you can use, but it would probably be sufficient, in this case, to nail 5/8's plywood to the backside of those studs (in addition to the sheetrock on the front side. <S> I'd also use some steel L-straps on the other 2 landing supports (if there's not already something there). <A> It is/was a temporary brace, it is safe to remove it.
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Yes, you can remove the brace because: The wall is non-load bearing (not carrying a load)
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Add additional circuits after 3-way switch I would like to add a circuit at the far end of a 3-way switched circuit. I choose to wire the first circuit this way: I have the source coming in from the breaker to a light switch with 14/2, then continue with 14/3 to the light and then continue with 14/3 to the far switch. What I am now trying to do is power up 2 additional circuits from the far light switch, but because the common wire is switched at the first switch I don't see a way to have the far circuits work independently of the first 3 way switch. Please advise. Thank you. <Q> Here is another way to look at the switch configuration using three-way switches (the black wire being the 'white wire <S> taped black' in your diagram, the red wire to the light being black, and the neutral being white). <S> As you can see, the right-hand switch -- where you want to branch from -- does not receive the hot connection independently of the left-hand switch. <S> You'll have to run an additional, independent 14/2 through the conduit, or replace your 14/3 with 14/4 as Tyson suggests. <A> You are one conductor short* to do what you want to with regular mechanical switches. <S> However, it's easy enough to accomplish with wireless switches such as the Lutron Caseta. <S> * <S> To do this with four conductors between boxes ... let's say you have <S> Switch <S> Box 1 - black source hot, white source neutral, three way switch Ceiling box - light Switch Box 2 - black downstream hot, white downstream neutral, three way switch and a black-red-blue-white cable from switch box 1 to the ceiling box to switch box 2. <S> Make these connections... <S> Switch box 1 - source hot and black pigtailed to one traveler terminal; blue to common; red to other traveler terminal; white to white. <S> Ceiling box - tap red to fixture hot, tap white to fixture neutral. <S> Switch box 2 <S> - downstream hot and black pigtailed to one traveler terminal; blue to common; red to other traveler terminal; white to white <S> This is a California three way with the device in the middle. <S> You have constant hot, neutral, and switched hot in all three locations with four wires between. <A> Here's what your wiring actually is, based on your description. <S> Note that I've gone ahead and color-marked the wires for <S> their function : <S> Black/white for supply hot/neutral, yellow for travelers, and red for switched-hot. <S> I do that for real with colored tape; so can you. <S> You want to power additional loads, and they will require supply hot/neutral (black/white). <S> You want this from the rightmost switch. <S> As you can plainly see, neither hot nor neutral is present there. <S> If you go back to the lamp, you can pick up neutral, but that's no help. <S> You have to go all the way to the left switch to obtain hot/neutral. <S> I recommend running a /2 cable from the left switch. <S> It isn't really practicable to "bring this along" in the other cable; you'd need special /4 <S> cable to advance hot from the left switch to the lamp, and unobtanium /5 cable to bring it to the right switch along with the other circuits you do need. <S> Hail Mary play: <S> smart switches <S> Another option is to leave the 3-wire cabling in place, but junk all the electromechanical 3-way switching and use smart switches and smart modules to control the lamp. <S> These communicate with each other via radio waves or powerline signaling, greatly reducing the number of wires needed. <S> However each smart switch needs power 24x7, which necessitates bringing supply hot/neutral to each switch location, including the right one. <S> You can usually get this done within the 3 wires already in the wall; they kinda design for that. <S> Powering from multiple breakers <S> This is very dangerous. <S> The most essential part is you must keep all neutrals matched to partner hots . <S> So you cannot simply clump all neutrals together, you must only clump together neutrals that are served from the same "hot". <S> This requires you be mind-bogglingly fastidious about marking every single wire in some way with tape. <S> It's really a giant pain. <S> I do it in THHN/conduit, but that's why I stock gray neutral wire and 10 colors of tape. <A> Basically, you control the coil with one of the travelers, which would feed your NO contact. <S> Then your other traveler would feed your NC. <S> Then the common will be always hot, with your switch side interlocked, as to not affect your 3-way switched lights. <S> Keep in mind, relays typically aren't rated for much current, so if you need to run more than a few amps you would need a bigger contactor. <S> I can't speak to how legal this is pertaining to the NEC, but as long as everything is inside UL listed enclosures, and everything is grounded well, it would work. <S> Might have even done it at my own house. :)
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With your existing wiring, you'd need to install a wireless dimmer / switch at one location, and a Pico remote mounted in the cover at the other. You are correct -- there is no way to add independent circuits off the second switch. You can accomplish this using a SPDT relay. If you're not into 'fastidious', don't feed the same box from 2 breakers because you will lose your mind trying to keep track of all that, and create an unsafe situation that trips GFCIs.
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Should I install radiant-barrier insulation in a walk-up attic roof in Pennsylvania? I have a walk-up unfinished attic in an old ranch house in Pennsylvania, where we see summer temperatures over 100F and winter temperatures well below freezing. Because there is planking over the joists the in-joist insulation over most of the living space is realistically limited to R-25. The attic/roof is ventilated with soffit and ridge vents. Right now (it's still 100F outside!) I'm thinking of ways to reduce the cooling load on the central HVAC. I wouldn't mind moderating the temperature in the attic itself year-round either. I have a roll of AtticFoil-like radiant barrier. If I staple that to the exposed roof rafters (without blocking the soffit-to-ridge vent circulation) I understand it will reduce the heat gain on sunny days. But given that the house also goes through a cold season during which heat gain would be a bonus, should I avoid such radiant barrier insulation in this location and application? (I'm not sure how to balance the seasonality, especially given that there is less sun exposure during the winter due to shorter days and lower sun transit.) <Q> I have the same situation in Pa but have also tried radiant barrier with the ventilation holes. <S> I am still in a quandry about how to use it. <S> This is what I have experienced: I laid the foil over my insulation as often recommended. <S> In the spring I went into the attic to check on the nature of things. <S> I lifted a section and my fiberglass insulation was short of sopping wet! <S> It took me short time to yank it all off of the fiberglass for it to dry out. <S> I do have an attic fan and could put baffles in for even better ventilation. <S> I am left with this last attempt to achieve at least some temporary benefit before the big redo: I am tracking the sun and will staple foil in a strategic spot on the attic rafters. <S> The spot that is potentially hot in the summer (in my case the NW corner) but receives little warmth in the winter because of daylight hours. <S> This should help the summer AC. <S> I am not ready to yank out all my insulation and look for leaks. <S> One step toward betterment at a time. <S> I keep wanting to believe radiant barrier is wonderful but people with season changes better do their insulation/ventilation/air leakage homework before they think radiant barrier is going to be the best thing since sliced bread! <A> You could install a "roof and attic ventilation fan" in the attic. <S> They are temperature and sometimes humidity actuated. <S> Since you have ridge vents the fan should be mounted as high on the roof and as close to the peak as possible. <S> However, with a vent fan, some short cycling of hot air from the ridge vents is possible which will reduce the fan's effectiveness. <A> I believe the atticfoil literature says to lay it across the insulation in that climate zone, though I'm sure they'd support you purchasing enough to do both the lay on top method and also rafters. <S> They put out a second flavor of their foil with larger holes to avoid creating a vapor barrier when laying it on top. <S> Even with the foil, if you have poor insulation/drafts in the house <S> it's going to get hot / cold regardless of what's happening up top.
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I have concluded that I am not able to put down radiant barrier as I most likely have airs leakage through the ceiling causing heat to meet the cold.
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What foam is best for sealing radiator pipes in floor to prevent mice from getting in? Is there a specific foam recommended for radiator pipes coming up through the floor? <Q> Some of them will eventually kill the mouse, but there's always another one, and another one, and another one to pick up the task and eventually finish it. <S> They didn't chew THROUGH it, but they grabbed onto it and pulled it out. <A> Your best bet is to stop them before they get any where near your radiator pipes. <S> Mortar works best in masonry and scrunched up chicken mesh (or any fine metal mesh) works in awkward spots. <S> Follow up any areas where you find droppings or other signs of mice to determine how they are getting in. <S> It is often a challenge, they don't need much space to get in. <S> Keep an eye on foodstuffs and move anything they are eating or using as bedding. <S> If they can find no food they may well decide to move on... <A> Almost anything you put in the holes around the pipe that the mice can't pull out or chew through will cause the piping to make noise from contact with the flooring and the material. <S> As mentioned by others, steel wool and foams will not work. <S> I would have an exterminator get rid of the rodent problem. <A> You can buy copper mesh that's designed to keep rodents out. <S> Stuf-Fit brand is one example, but there are many to choose from. <S> Stuff <S> some mesh in the hole, then saturate it with expanding foam to hold it in place. <S> Keep in mind that you still need to eliminate the mice or they'll eventually find (or make) another hole. <A> Spray foam works great - easy and fast. <S> Spray it and then when it is still wet and fresh insert steel wool at any access that mice can get to. <S> The foam will expand all around the steel wool and he will not be moving the steel wool, and you can also add a little cayenne pepper on top before it dries.
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Check the perimeter of your home at ground level and fill any holes you find to stop mice getting though the walls and into the structure or under the floor. I've tried steel wool, it didn't stop them. No foam product will stop them, they will just chew through it. Aluminum or steel flashing is the only tried and true method.
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I'm worried about a fire this is my second question on this problem, i hope it's ok to ask another question because i'm pretty stressed about a fire in my walls like someone said could happen. In my kitchen we had a outlet that would crackle when i plugged something into the outlet on the other side of the counter. So in other words when i plugged something into outlet A outlet B would make noise. Yesterday outlet A stopped working and today outlet B is making noise when i plugged in my hot plate. So the two outlets must be connected. Here is my question, if all the outlets in the house are connected could may be say plugging something in the bedroom cause a problem "Fire" in the bad wiring in the kitchen. Now that i'm not using it anymore i don't hear it making anymore noise but right next to it is another outlet that has my icebox plugged in. So is wiring in the house like a chain where if one link is bad the whole chain is effected? <Q> It sounds like your outlets are daisy chained. <S> Over 95% of the time when I am called for this exact problem the outlets with backstabs were used, however in the kitchen the circuits should be 20 amp and back <S> stabs will not work with 12 gauge wire so it may be a loose wire nut or broken wire in the box. <S> I usually replace outlets with spec grade back and side outlets <S> they cost a few more dollars than the 98cent cheap construction grade outlets but are worth the few dollars extra. <S> The clamps are very solid compared to construction grade. <S> Replace the outlet and any damaged wire. <S> This may require pigtailing the whites together and blacks together if the wires are damaged (I prefer pigtailing any way) then put the white wire on the silver screw side and the black on the gold or brass colored screw side bare copper to the green screw attached to the yoke and reinstall the outlet. <S> Now turn the breaker back on and everything should work again. <A> This is a VERY serious problem and MUST be attended to by a licensed professional electrician immediately. <S> It's possible <S> that your other outlets are on a different circuit that the kitchen; modern codes in the US and Canada would require it (but we don't know where you are) <S> however if your house is old enough, maybe not. <S> Be that as it may, these are the symptoms of bad connections in the devices and/or wiring and will not only get worse, not better, but may get to the point where it will no longer matter whether you plug anything into it or not! <S> Get it taken care of immediately!!! <A> Regardless of where exactly the fire would happen, it sounds like you have faulty outlets they do create a fire hazard. <S> You probably want to take care of them. <S> You could possibly identify which outlets are connected, however it would be a somewhat complicated and dangerous process <S> and I don't think it's worth trying <S> : Even if you did identify the exact issue, I don't think it's a good idea to attempt to fix the electrical wiring in your house, since that requires technical knowledge to avoid serious problems (like death, injury, property damage, legal trouble). <S> So you would need to hire an electrician to fix it anyways. <S> It's not like figuring out <S> exactly what's wrong would save you any trouble either <S> So I would stop worrying about it and just hire an electrician, describe the problem to him and tell him to fix it. <S> You have a few days of higher fire risk until he shows up, so just be careful until then and don't plug too many things in. <S> You could also ask your fire department about it, but likely they will err on the side of caution and advise you to get it fixed by an electrician.
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: It wouldn't save you much money on the electrician's fee (because diagnosing is much easier for him than fixing it) and he probably wouldn't want to take your word for it anyway, since he has no way of knowing that you know what you're talking about. Turn the circuit breaker off. This is a very common problem and easily repaired. Pull the noisy outlet you will probably immediately identify the bad spot by finding some melted insulation or soot covered areas from the arcing (that is what is making the noise)
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How can I handle this splice joint between two shorter pieces of lumber? I want to build a mostly ground level deck. I have created plans and I want it to be 16' x 20' one long side will have a notch for a circle of rocks and a firepit. my issue is along straight the 20' side. I don't have 20' lumber available. How can I handle where two 10 foot boards meet? I've kept everything well below max span. I'll be using ground contact pressure treated lumber, and I checked it's southern pine. <Q> Another idea, I'd shorten that middle joist by 1.5" and double up the (looks like) 30.5" section of the rim joist between the adjacent joists with a piece 2x8 x 30.5". <A> Not sure how you are fastening the Rim to the end of the Joists, but you could use a double 2x Hanger on the rim to attach the joist and its doubler from the inside with something like an HHUS26-2. <S> If you wanted to go Simple get a 10' and a 12' and then put the splice between the joists and then use the scrap from the 12' as a backing to bind the two rims together. <A> That is called the rim joist and in this case does not take load but just ties everything together, and very little of that as the deck boards will do most of that work. <S> It's very common and very typical to just splice in the middle of a joist with 3/4" of each piece on the 1-1/2" wide joist and just nail each just like the other joists (number and size of nails), but a slight angle <S> so the nails are fully in the joist
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You could double up on the Joist back to the blocking and just have one rim a bit longer than the other.
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Is updating/avoiding this splice worth it, and if so, what's the easiest way to plug the hole? An outlet was discovered to be midway through a segment of unsafe (too thin gauge for circuit, no ground) wiring. Let's refer to point A as a junction to the rest of the circuit (which is all good to go), point B as this outlet, and point C as an important outlet at the end of this branch. There's nothing else on the branch between A & C. Because the outlet at point B was hidden by furniture and not used, and there's already ~8 other outlets on this circuit (maybe more), it's been decided that this outlet could simply be removed. To most rapidly get rid of the unsafe wiring between point A & C, new wire was pulled through each end of the gang box and spliced, thus completing the circuit with new wiring. However, this leaves an unnecessary splice in a gang box at point B, and the box itself seems a little unsafe to me (it is a not very secure/stable, old work box). To reduce electrical risks, it seems to me it's worth it (though not high priority) to re-run a length of wire from point A to C directly with no splice, and in the process remove the old work box. This is not that difficult and since splices and rickety junction boxes are some of the major electrical hazards as I understand it, it's worth upgrading: it will take 10 feet of 12/2 NM, pull part way through from point C to B and then pull the rest of the way through from B to A and get it all hooked up. When all that is said and done, the rickety gang box will be empty and unneeded. Easy enough to remove if that's best, it's practically falling out of place now. What's the easiest way to plug the hole? Do I need to add drywall + joint compound + paint, or can I just put a gang box cover on the empty box? Guess I'm trying to confirm if it makes sense to rewire the splice out of existence, and if there's any problem putting a cover on an empty box or even somehow putting a cover on an otherwise open but discrete hole in the wall. <Q> Even if you "improve" it by a wire directly from A to C, it is likely you have other splices in your other circuit anyway. <S> In terms of cover plate vs patching drywall, that's totally up to you. <S> If it's behind furniture, why not simply choose the easier way. <A> If the wire gauge is too small, you do need to replace it. <S> The only reason I can think of code wise that the box was added would be to have no more than 12 feet between outlets or no point more than 6' from an outlet. <S> Remove the old work box and patch the wall. <S> You will be able to find the spot in the future if you decide to install another outlet in the future. <S> You could leave the box and put a cover plate on it, and this would be legal also, but from your description it sounds like a service loop and a patch job <S> would be the way I would go. <A> Do Not run afoul of rules requiring receptacles at certain spacing along the wall. <S> I do not agree with the opinion that splices are a major failure point. <S> Whoever said that isn't very good at splices. <S> Use Ideal brand wire nuts in the middle of their working range, and tighten them gorilla tight. <S> Done. <S> The rickety old box is worrisome but why is it rickety? <S> Is it attached to only drywall? <S> If it's possible to attach it more firmly to the joist, I am fond of 7/8x#6 deck screws usng Torx or Robertson drive and a little sideways ratchet driver. <S> You can always replace it with another old work box, but a steel box beats a plastic one any day of the week in my book. <A> Since the 6' / 12' receptacle rules are design rules, not safety rules, and violating them doesn't cause a fire or shock anyone, I wouldn't worry about it. <S> It can be corrected in the future if need be. <S> Since it's an old work box, I wonder if it was even required for the 6' rule in the first place? <S> Maybe if the house is older than the rule. <S> So I'd run new wire bypassing the middle box and be done with it. <S> I am not sure I'd care much about an empty box behind the couch being loose. <S> If you get a sturdy unbreakable blank cover, the tension from the cover screws should steady it. <S> You could enlarge the hole and use a double gang old work box and cover, if the new half of the box opening is tight, it won't wobble. <S> a lot of work for little return IMO.
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You could patch the drywall... As long as the inline splice is properly connected at B, e.g. using proper wire nuts, it is not considered a major hazard. If you decide to remove the outlet, I would leave a service loop of wire in that location when you pull the new cable in. In my opinion it's not worth the effort and cost to re-run the wire. Generally any point on the wall must be within 6' of a receptacle using sensible routings, because that is how long lamp cords are.
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What is this PVC pipe in my basement I recently purchased a newly built house. It has an unfinished basement. There is a white pvc pipe that comes from the floor. It is about 4 feet tall. Out of it comes a sewer smell. Some days worse than others. What is this pipe? How can I stop the smell from coming into my basement? <Q> My basement has a 4 inch perforated drain pipe in 16 inches of washed septic gravel under the concrete floor. <S> It is reduced to a smaller diameter and taken up to the roof. <S> It is to vent any radon or any other gas that might be under the floor. <S> Could the OP's pipe be a vent? <A> I have one of these sticking out in my basement. <S> Though I also have a stubbed out drain for a sink and bath tube close by. <S> I'd cut the pipe even, right below the crack and glue a cap on it. <A> Looks like a Radon vent. <S> It was probably put in when the basement floor was poured and then should have been extended up through roof but never was (or maybe if you don't have a radon issue then just capped??). <S> Below is the picture of my vent in my basement which was just poured this year. <S> Since you just purchased the newly built house talk to the builder and see what they say.
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It may be a stubbed out pipe for a future toilet that is plumbed to either the sewage line or an underground sewage waste tank.
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Is it safe to enable a service panel that has been recently flooded? My breaker panel started gushing water during a storm. Is it safe for us to turn it on now that it's over? Does it need to be replaced? Will we get electrocuted if we turn it on while it's still wet though no longer gushing? <Q> Oof! <S> Shut this thing off, have the meter pulled, and keep this thing shut off until you can get it rectified! <S> Flooded light-duty electrical equipment is universally beyond simple remediation due to the potential for water, salt deposits, and debris to have gotten into inaccessible areas and absorbed into insulating materials, causing arc tracking vulnerabilities, reduced insulating capability of insulators, corrosion damage to metal parts, and the potential for mechanical jamming or contact impairment due to debris. <S> De-energize this equipment immediately (turn the main breaker off if it isn't already off and also call your electrical utility to have them <S> shut power off to your address as you can no longer trust the main breaker(s) to shut power off properly at this point), and do not turn it back on until the situation is fully remediated. <S> See this Square-D document and this Littlefuse document for more information. <S> If you provide more details about the affected electrical equipment, I can give more details about the remediation your situation requires. <A> All your cables are shot too NM cable is not rated for wet locations. <S> That is a wet location. <S> All your NM cables have paper packing, and all have had wicking action drag water several feet up the cable. <S> It may take a year to dry, in the meantime the hot and neutral wire insulation is not made for water contact. <S> Time for this panel to move, anyway <S> There's obviously some sort of environmental problem that makes this happen, and from the rust on the panel, I'm guessing this isn't the first time. <S> So, given that your house is now stone dead , and I'm guessing there will be other flood related issues rendering the home not fit for occupancy in the short term... <S> this is an absolutely fantastic time to do a DIY main panel replacment. <S> DIY saves a fortune in cash, especially if everyone else has the same problem and there's a big queue at the electrician's. <S> So solve your problem Houston style -- talk to the power company and figure a new place for a meter pan that won't flood, <S> get a meter pan with main breaker built-in, making your new panel a subpanel that can be fully deenergized by cutting the main breaker. <S> That makes it easier to work on safely. <S> Now, where cables have to go into the flood zone, first use UF cable which is made for immersion, and second put GFCI breakers on the wet-risk circuits. <S> If you've seen pictures of the Houston floods, you noticed many 2-storey apartments with lights and A/C running in the upper floors. <S> That's how they do that trick! <A> I have only repaired about 1/2 dozen flooded homes. <S> The breaker panel will need to be opened , cleaned and the breakers replaced. <S> Any outlets or switches that were under water should also be replaced. <S> After that each branch circuit should be checked with a megger this is a high voltage ohm meter that will verify the integrity of the insulation. <S> On one of the homes the owner tried to save some $ by using contact cleaner on the outlets and switches, that did work for many of the outlets but all the switches failed and the amount it cost for me to test then replace the switches and outlets that failed cost more than replacing everything the first time around. <S> Added on one of the homes I forgot to mention that the service was running for several days prior to the power being shut down and everything in the service panel including part of the metal case was eaten away so although this is a DIY site getting an electrical service back online after a flood requires special cleaning & testing unless everything is replaced.
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Once the breakers go under water they must be replaced.
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Is this a wood destroying insect? I live in Austin, TX, USA. Just looked under a wooden table in my dining room (shares wall with outside of house) and saw this little tubes hanging underneath. A few still had live worm-like guys protruding. I'm guessing some kind of larvae. There were little granules of something on the bottom of the table. The majority of them are near the floor in the corner where the wood end table was. Though I do see four or five hanging from the ceiling in that area. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but each of the tubes is maybe 1/4" long. Any thoughts on what these might be, specifically if they look like anything that destroys wood? Update: Just had a pest control inspector come out. He says the tubes are moth larvae, as suggested below (good call). The saw dust is likely from carpenter ants. He says they seem to be localized to the end table so I should probably get rid of it, which is what I'm going to do. I'll monitor the area for more signs up damage from the ants, but so far it looks okay. <Q> Those aren't termite tubes. <S> I am pretty sure they are moth larva cases. <S> Here's another example of one. <S> There's lots more kinds if you do an image search. <S> We had them on the outside of my home in CT growing up. <S> That was aluminum siding so they weren't eating it. <A> Please give us more information such as where you live and what we are looking at in your pictures. <S> Ugh. <S> This is when an expert should be called and pesticides used. <S> Try to not have ALL insects killed if possible. <S> Need to find out the attraction to the wood of your home, first. <S> Not all homes are attacked by termites. <S> I would call a few companies out to give you their ideas and bid. <S> I would also call a private home inspector. <S> There is a reason for termite infestation that needs to be addressed. <S> They are amazingly affordable to any and all home owners... <S> worth every cent. <S> How long have you lived in this home? <S> Did you have it built? <S> How old is this home <S> and when was the last time a remodel has been done? <S> There is the chance this problem was in effect when you first purchased this home and without discovery you do have a bit of power here. <S> This could be mitigated with responsible parties footing the bill...not you. <S> I am also thinking that you learning exactly what is happening, you will be able to 'vet' these pest contractors. <S> Make sure they show you their licensing for pest control! <S> Bonded as well. <S> This protects your home owner's insurance. <S> Update:Clothes moths? <S> I think this is more on target than termites with this crysallis thingy. <S> I learn something new every dang day. <S> wood boring insects that damage taxidermy <A> Better ventilation could help with this, as I have worsening humidity issues at present and inherently see more of these moth cases hanging down from the ceiling over the years. <S> Dehumidifiers are great in the short term, in the long term better positive / negative pressure ventilation in the home helps.
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You need someone familiar with dry rot as well as termite infestation and a professional, private, licensed home inspector is the best and first way to spend money on this problem that is rapidly reducing your investment. Gosh, this looks like termites, the white dudes are larva and that sawdust is sawdust that has been chewed up by the larva.
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How can I calculate the neutral load in a single phase circuit with disparate bus loads? In a 240 volt single phase, bus A has 4000 watt load and bus B has 7000 watt load . WHAT IS THE NEUTRAL LOAD? <Q> In typical split phase service, the neutral carries the imbalance of the current between the two legs, so the neutral load would be (7000-4000)W or 3000W. <A> 11000 watts <S> and it's illegal . <S> Two hots can't share a neutral under "just any" condition; only under certain conditions and you have not named one of them. <A> You should get a wire as thick as phase wire, on industrial balanced loads (230/400V), if phase conductors are thicker than 16mm^2 it could thinner with a minimum of 16mm^2. <S> In your case (wire thinner than 16mm^2) <S> your neutral must be as thick as phase conductor <A> keep it simple. <S> if you have a 20 amp circuit on A phase, put the next 20 amp circuit on B phase. <S> If its a 3 phase system, put the third 20 amp circuit on C phase. <S> ect. <S> It's not brain surgery.
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If you correctly engineered it to be one of the other conditions, particularly split-phase, the answer is 7000W because you can't count on that 4000W load staying on , the neutral must be able to handle worst case.
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Do washing-machines provide a AC connector which is live when the machine is working? I am considering to install an electrical valve between the water outlet and the pipe bringing this water to the washing machine (I have some traumatic memories from a pipe breaking and water flowing in an apartment for a week). This valve would need to be open when the washing machine is working and closed when it is not. One of the ways would be to power it from the washing machine, at some place which is live during the washing cycle. I do not want to experiment too much but was wondering whether is was usual to have such an output, probably for cases like mine. Since I suppose not, would there be another way to control the valve? <Q> No, they don't generally have such an outlet. <S> Perhaps you are looking for an Automatic Washing Machine Shutoff Valve ? <S> These devices sense when the washing machine is using electricity and open the water supply valves. <S> Once the machine stops using electricity (i.e., the cycle is done) then the valves shut. <S> Many models also include additional features such as water sensors for the floor, and timers that close the valve after x minutes even if the washing machine is still pulling current. <A> They sell supply connection hoses that will automatically shut off if the water is on too long. <S> I use these on the toilets in my home so that if I have a sticky flapper, they shut off the water <S> and I don’t ring up a huge water bill. <S> They sell them for washing machines too although as this blog post notes, not everyone is a fan of them because they rely on flow restriction: <A> What you want is a current sensing switch While you probably don't want to tinker with the washer (that voids any listing/certification it carries), what you can do is use a current sensing relay such as this to control your water valve. <S> The hot wire going to the receptacle for the washer goes through the "donut" <S> shaped core on the relay, and it will turn the water valve on when more than the set current flows through it (after a brief delay for the part linked). <A> Washers already have this <S> They already have two control circuits, one that energizes (I believe at 120V) to command hot water "on" and one that commands cold water "on". <S> They go to the dual solenoid mixing valve inside the washer. <S> Hijack off them and extend to your external solenoid valves. <S> And you're done. <S> Fancier would be to also remove/bypass the internal mixing valve, so you don't fry a circuit on the control board from trying to operate two redundant mixing solenoid valves at once. <S> You would simply be relocating the solenoid valve action to the fixed-piping side of the flexible hoses attached to the washer, and presumably using much higher quality solenoid valves than the "2 valves in a complex plastic piece for $28" valves they are using. <A> Since you can't utilize the washing machine unless someone is there to turn it on, just use a manual switch that the user uses to turn on the water before the washer is turned on. <S> If you are worried about them forgetting to turn it off again, put a timer on it, i.e. they turn on the water and it runs for an hour (or long enough for the longest wash cycle) then turns off. <A> You can get smart power strips that have outlets that are normally turned off until it detects current on the master outlet, then the slave outlets turn on. <S> They’re sold for people with stereo component sets (remember those?) or computers: [ ] <S> [1 <S> But note that your washing machine already has a valve controlled by the master controller — and if the master controller is haywire or the water level float switch is broken but the machine remains on - you’ll still see the same level of electric current and your “backup” valve won’t shut off.
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You could plug the washer into the master outlet then control a water valve with one of the slave outlets.
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Does my three season porch ceiling outlet require a GFCI? An electrician put an electrical outlet box in our covered porch ceiling. We want to hang a light fixture (one with a cord and plug over a dining table). I will be installing the outlet myself. Do I need a GFCI outlet or just a 15 amp regular outlet? The wiring is in the attic above the ceiling. The porch has sliding glass windows, the ceiling cannot get wet from rain, but there is normal humidity when the windows are open. <Q> It sounds like you described a damp area, like a bathroom. <S> Bathroom lighting does not require GFCI. <S> But... First, you are never required to use a GFCI receptacle. <S> That's a hardware limitation, not Code. <S> You also can't put a GFCI where shorter members of your family need a ladder to reset it. <S> How will they see to work? <S> Also practical, you don't want to put any GFCI device where it'l be exposed to rain, spray or condensate, so an upstream/more indoor location is more appropriate. <S> You wouldn't charge your iPhone out here! <S> The next question to ponder is whether you'll be touching or contacting this light. <S> Bathroom lights are generally grounded and garage or hi-bay lighting is usually unreachable. <S> If frequent contact or no ground, there’s a practical argument to be made toward GFCI protection, just because it "takes off the table" any risk of electrocution. <S> Now ceiling receptacles are perfectly normal for lighting. <S> Wiring luminaires via cord and plug connection is perfectly allowed due to NEC 400.6. <A> The code section that deals with GFCI protection for residential dwellings that would apply to you is 2018 NEC 210.8(A)(11) which specifically is for indoor damp or wet locations. <S> For example, the GFCI should be accessible without too much effort. <S> For this reason I'd recommend installing a GFCI switch in place of the regular switch. <S> If no switch, then GFCI breaker or accessible outlet upstream. <S> The code also requires AFCI protection for all habitable rooms so you might as well install a DFCI ( GFCI + AFCI) breaker and be done with it. <A> Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter... <S> they should always be in a bathroom or a kitchen. <S> Not a place to save money that is for sure! <S> These things should be installed by a licensed and bonded electrician to protect your home owner's insurance!
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The extra level of protection a GFCI offers is worth it as long as you don't create other problems in the process. You can use a plain receptacle, and if GFCI protection is even required , that can be provided from another GFCI device upstream. Also, having a GFCI device past a light switch is a bad idea , so if this is sourced from a wall switch, no GFCI here. Anytime there is a higher chance of rain, water splashing, possibly condensation you should always install a GFCI;
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Is it safe to store a wheel/tire set in my garage loft area? I'm not sure how much they weigh. I assume around 50lbs a piece. Here is the area I will store them in: Any specific way I should arrange the load or am I worrying too much? <Q> I'm no expert, but I suspect that there won't be any harm in storing them there. <S> I assume, they are just your seasonal tires? <S> Someone had to be up there to install the shelving, which would have been more weight concentrated in a smaller area (a foot). <S> So the distributed weight of the tires should have no effect. <S> In my In-laws garage, they store all sorts of stuff up there, bins and boxes full of clothes and other things. <A> There is very little bracing under the loft floor. <S> It may need to be framed in more to support the weight of stored items. <S> Objects falling from that height could definitely result in personal injury, or even death. <S> If you are unsure how to reinforce it, it would be best to have a professional come in to assess. <A> Looks like 2 X 6 on 48" centers , primarily they hold the walls from bowing out, not for supporting weight. <S> I suggest what I did for the same construction : add 2 X 6 between so it will be 24" centers. <S> That will hold modest weight like your wheels .
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Tires are not that heavy, but you definitely want it to be strong enough to carry the weight of a person safely.
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Is electrical tape enough to insulate contact that may be touching wall? I have a 3-contact switch like this. As you can see, the switch doesn't have an OFF position, it diverts the current either between middle and left, or middle and right contacts. Had to attach it to a wall lamp that didn't have a switch, by drilling a hole in the base of the lamp: I have therefore one contact that I am not going to use and where I don't want current to flow at all. I cut it off and rolled all over the switch body in the place with 2 layers of insulating tape. The remaining 2 contacts were rolled in a layer of insulating tape as well, after connected to incoming live (middle contact) and lamp live (left contact) wires respectively. As I drilled the hole in the base of the lamp, it turned out that the side of the switch with the spare contact may be touching the drywall a bit. The question: since the current is supposedly trying to go from middle contact to the spare contact when lamp is turned off -- is it liable to cause problems such as heating up its insulation or similar -- simply by being live? I am grateful and have upvoted all the three current answers, each of which provides relevant points for me. I feel that all three taken together answer the original question practically fully, but since I can only accept one, I gather I should accept the one, which most directly addresses the original question. <Q> You can use the other contact not the common for the hot <S> and then there would be no connection to the other contact point when the switch is in the off position but will work just fine <S> just switch the hot to the other contact and the load to the common <S> and you don't even need tape on the other side. <A> The lamp appears to be made from metal. <S> You need at least two insulation barriers, or protective earth, for this to be anywhere near safe or legal. <S> The protection mechanism - and implications are slightly different. <S> Protective earthing means that the chassis of the lamp has a robust connection to PE of the electrical wiring, so any fault current will pass trough the PE conductor, with low enough resistance that no dangerous fault voltage will be present on the apparatus. <S> It may additionally trigger ground fault devices, if such are fitted in the system. <S> Double insulation means that the chassis is not grounded, but you have two protective barriers between the user and the live current. <S> If either one fails, there is no risk of electrocution. <S> One device in this instance may be approved heat shrink tube over the contact terminals. <S> Electrical tape is for temporary fixes. <S> It's not a permanent solution. <A> The middle or spare contact won't heat up anything as long as no current is flowing, even when it is live and contacting the wall (which is usually not a conductor). <S> However that does not guarantee that your installation is safe and code-compliant. <S> What I would worry is that when current flowing through middle-left contacts when the light is on , the heat generated at the contact point between your wire and the left contact would downgrade your electrical tape and compromise its insulation.
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The other insulation barrier may be secure fitting of the switch in such a way that it will not touch the chassis.
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Water dripping from basement ceiling during heavy rain I would appreciate direction on investigating this water issue further: I have had water dripping (from ceiling) during heavy rain , along inside wall of basement only on one side of the house. Fortunately, this is also not a chronic issue. It happened only during two spring/summer seasons in past 7 years. Only after super heavy rain I saw this 3-5 times one year, and 1-2 time the next year spring. Dripping along the wall, stops after the heavy rain stops. For past two springs, it has been dry along that wall and now I am finishing the basement, so could use help on what preventive/investigative steps I could take before framing the inside wall. My plumber ruled out any water pipe leak. It is a 1950 cape in northeast, with poured concrete basement wall. Visuals below: The first image shows the stain on the wall from the ceiling, from water drippings. You can see the same basement window in the second image from an outside view. Since the basement ceiling is well over 18 inches above ground level, I ruled this out as collected ground water coming back in. The second image is an outside view of the same basement window: The water dripping along inside wall is isolated to the right of this window, in this view. The third image shows the full view of the outside wall, including the gutter & pipes on roof. I believe the gutters are fine, and water discharges about 21 feet away from the basement though a buried gutter extension. There is no other puddle or wet wall outside I could detect during rain. I am suspecting the problem is some leakage around the flashing on the roof coming down alone inside of exterior wall, or some seepage along the cracks on the outdoor wood shingles. Suggestions on other areas I could investigate, are very much appreciated. Right now I am think of calling a chimney professional to check flashings on the roof, as the next step to investigate. <Q> I know you say the guttering is fine, but my advice to all homeowners is: "never check the gutters when they are dry". <S> Always check them when it's pouring with rain, the harder the better. <S> There is no better way of seeing exactly where the water is going. <S> My thoughts are that if the roof or chimney were leaking, you'd see evidence long before the water hits the basement ceiling, no? <S> The fact the water leak is above <S> the ground level means the water is likely getting past the cladding. <S> The fact it only does it during extreme rain points to the gutter system overflowing (IMHO). <S> The problem may then be twofold; the gutter (as it is) can't cope with heavy rain, and second, there is a breach in the cladding and/ or membrane behind the cladding. <A> See the attached picture. <S> There is definitely no plumbing anywhere near the wall, and there is no leak in the roof. <S> It is called basement wall sweat. <S> This happens if your home is too humid, the concrete walls touch the air, and the concrete is colder than the air. <S> Concrete warms up slower than the rest of your home. <S> So if your home temperature increases even a small amount, the concrete will be the coldest point; so it becomes the first point to collect dew. <S> Check your dryer vent. <S> If a bird made a nest in there, you might not be venting water vapor properly. <S> Keep windows and doors closed at all times to keep out humidity, even when the outside weather seems nice. <S> Turn down your humidifier or throw it away. <S> Your ac and furnace both dry out your air, so they can help. <S> Search the net for "basement wall sweat". <S> Insulation can help, but you have to install it right, or it will make things worse. <A> I would consider the fasteners for the low bracket on the downspout. <S> How far do they penetrate the outside wall? <S> They could act as a pathway for rainwater to follow.
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I would expect the amount of water in a light rain to be insufficient to make the basement ceiling wet. A heavy rain on the other hand might be enough. Clean your dryer lint trap after each load. I just saw something similar in a parking garage stairwell.
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Proper reinforcing of electrical box on drywall There is a 2-gang outlet/electrical box that holds plugs rather well (hair dryer, vacuum, etc). That is usually great, however when pulling the plug from the socket, the whole electrical box gets pulled and bends slightly. It always bends back after the plug is removed, though I worry that one day it will not! Luckily, the other side of the wall is in a basement utility room, and thus exposed. It can be seen that the box is mounted with 1 screw and 1 nail, driven in to a block of wood that extends from the wall stud. Since the box is only mounted on one side, it bends on said side when pulled, especially when pulled from the GFCI outlet (right side of the last photo below, opposite of the screw+nail). I don't see how to secure it on the other side though. How can the box be more properly secured? Is a bit of bend typical? The box only has one mounting side, so I assume that the one side is usually enough. Still, the physics of it make me think there should be mounting options on both sides. <Q> It secures to the drywall and should fit easily since the stud is far away. <S> Trying to nail the box in further is pointless since the drywall is up. <A> The box should be tight to the stud. <S> You could add a thicker block and securely nail it to the stud. <S> A better method would add a 2x4 between studs snug to the back of the box and add a couple of wood screws to anchor the box to the new 2x4. <S> I would use screws to anchor the 2x4 because if you hammer it may damage your sheetrock. <S> This type of box normally has only 2 nails but is tight to the stud. <A> Since you have access to the back side you can reinforce the attachment of the box. <S> The box should have been up against the structural member and not with the space. <S> On the side next to the stud you could insert a piece of wood between the box and the structure to take up the space to support the box. <S> On the side away from the stud you could use an improvised support from a piece of wood. <S> In both cases you could secure the box with one screw through the inside through the side of the box and into the pieces of wood. <S> I would use an 8" long piece of 2x4 on the outside of the box. <S> Press this against the box and then use drywall 3 or 4 screws to secure the 2x4 to the back side of the drywall. <S> Then use one screw to hold the box to this 2x4. <S> This prevents the box from moving out when a plug is removed. <S> The face plate should prevent the box from moving inward when a plug is inserted. <A> You might also try a metal box support such as this: The one shown is a Caddy TSGB16. <S> I don't think you can buy it at a big box or hardware store but an electrical wholesaler will have a similar one, or maybe you can find a nice guy electrician that will just give you one. <S> Good luck <A> Try using this - I think it is called barrington bars or something. <S> But cost like a $1 and works well for old work no need to redo the box.
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Or you could use the special metal clamps designed for this purpose to secure the box to the back side of the drywall. Since the box is so far off the stud, my suggestion is to take that existing box off and put an old work double gang in.
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Electrical - 50A to 20A Adapter for heater? I am currently in the process of remodeling my detached garage and have run into a snag with the electrical. The previous owner ran 6-2 wiring out to the garage into a 50A outlet but then pigtailed a 20A outlet off of that (see attached pictures). I have a Cadet Garage Heater that needs the 6-20R outlet. The heater would only be used in the winter and when I am making something out in the garage which is not that frequent. I am assuming the pigtail connection the previous owner ran is not safe. Ideally, I would run 6-3 wire out to the garage for a subpanel and come off of that but I am hoping for an easier solution in the form of an adapter. As mentioned before, the usage of the heater would be limited to the winter, running maybe 2-3 hours max a couple times a month. I would like to keep the 50A outlet in case I ever decide to flirt with a welder. The 6-2 wiring is on a 50A breaker and is run underground to to the garage. Also ran out to the garage are two 14-2 lines as well as a 14-3 line. The two 14-2's are on a 15A breaker and the 14-3 is on another 15A breaker tied into a few things inside the house. I have already replaced the fluorescent lights with LED lights and added a couple more plugs off of the 14-2's. The 14-3 controls the lights on the garage (other switch is at the back door). All help is appreciated. Let me know if I need to provide more details. Thank you! <Q> I believe you could have a safe, code compliant install now if you used the 6/2 to feed a small subpanel with no neutral. <S> The 240V receptacles don't have a neutral. <S> There may be a tap rule that would allow you to tap the 50A circuit with #12 if you keep the tap very short, but only if you hardwired the heater, not with a receptacle. <A> Totally not legit, but it should be safe, provided the heater has its own breaker or fuse. <A> You can pull the 50 amp breaker or add another 20 and remove the 50 amp outlet since this is not code . <S> you can run the 20 amp circuit on the number 6 wire but may need to pigtail for the breaker. <S> If you want to use for a welder at a later time you still have the breaker and outlet that can be reinstalled
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If the heater has a built-in breaker or fuse, then I would just make a cheater cord.
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Is it ok to use push-in connectors for testing? Soon I am going to replace my 2 prong outlet with a 3 prong GFCI that will protect downstream devices. I am wondering to test the line and load if it is ok to use Push-In connectors Gauge 22-12. I just want to use them while testing. I appreciate any help. <Q> I don't believe you're referring to the push-in terminals on the receptacle, but push in connectors like these: In my experience, this type of push in connector is a safer bet than wire nuts for someone that isn't practiced at using wire nuts. <S> I have not seen any real problems with these, and they are very easy to use. <S> However, I would not use them for testing. <S> You have to pull and twist them to remove them, and it dings up the conductor a little bit. <S> For testing when you may have to unmake and remake splices, lever nuts are best. <S> They are easy to use and easy to remove. <A> Push-in splices, like backstab connectors, are a major source of connection problems down the road, where the circuit just goes dead for no apparent reason. <S> They are also a major source of arc faults and the fires which follow from them. <S> They the primary reason almost every circuit must now have a $40 Arc Fault breaker on it. <S> The point of any kind of jab-and-forget connector is speed. <S> (It isn't surety, obviously). <S> They cut the time of wiring a new-being-built home by like 20%. <S> For repairs like yours, the time they save is like 1% of the overall job. <S> Totally a false economy and not worth it. <S> Also, backstabs are single-use , so once you jab, that hole is finished and must not be used again (or it will fail quickly). <S> The receptacle types are only good for #14 wire. <S> Not to be confused with "screw-to-clamp" connections where the wire fits loosely in a hole directly behind the screw, and you tighten the screw to clamp the wire. <S> Those are fine if you set torque to spec with a torque screwdriver, can fit any wire they're rated for (#22 should be ok for testing) and are reusable. <S> Or the splice block equivalent with levers. <S> Otherwise, use wire nuts properly, or the side screws with J-hooks like normal. <A> I know quite a few electricians that use push on connectors. <S> I don't Personaly like them because they can be hard to remove (pulling and twisting <S> usually works) <S> I have had two many back stabs on mostly outlets but some switches fail in the past and these were limited to 15 amp circuits <S> #12 wire could be on a 20 amp circuit <S> but I know they can be listed for use on a 20 amp circuit.
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To simply cap single wires, insulating the stripped bit at the end for safety, wire nuts are fine for anyone - while it takes a little skill to get a good splice with wire nuts, anyone can cap a single wire - as long as the wire nut isn't too big.
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How do you remove a Carrier / Bryant Infinity thermostat control from the wall? I have a Carrier Infinity system with model # SYSTXCCUID01-V thermostat/control. I need to temporarily remove it from the wall. I found a diagram of how to install it: ( diagram source ) I do not know how to release the interlocking tabs. It feels very tight and I don't want to break it. <Q> It really will just pull straight off. <S> (Just did it!) <S> No tools required. <S> It feels tight but it seems designed to mount on/off this way. <S> (Encouraged to try that by this post ). <A> I did it <S> but I was not sure due to the difficulty of the release. <S> Secondly, I would not ever buy an AC system that would only work with a special Thermostat! <S> A replacement for my Infinity by Carrier is $960.00 (not customer friendly). <S> The only reason my Thermostat is a problem is that the AC button broke. <S> Otherwise if I remove the face and manually switch between Air and Heat- <S> I can get by. <A> I had the same problem. <S> I tried to pry the thermostat from the back panel with screwdrivers with no luck. <S> I was concerned that the plastic parts would break. <S> Finally I tried a method that worked well. <S> It came apart quickly. <A> Careful, these 2 pieces will come apart, but in my case, the drywall anchors gave up first. <S> Then a medium screwdriver was needed, but it wasn't tough. <S> More mad about the drywall anchors.
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My advice is to gently pull straight out. I used my finger tips on top of the thermostat to push opposite directions on the thermostat and the back mounting plate.
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Is copper piping required within a certain distance from a water heater? I have read that National Code requires you to use copper for 18 inches from your water heater. How can I do this when everything existing is PEX? I need to replace my existing low boy water heater next to my kitchen sink. It was installed by the builder ten years ago. All the pipe in the house is PEX. The existing water heater is connected using PEX as well. The supply line comes directly thru the wall to the HW Heater. There is no space to run 18 inches of copper! The heater is under the kitchen counter, and the countertop is directly over it. Only about an inch clearance. <Q> Although copper may not be required, it is possible that PEX is prohibited. <S> One reason for this would be building codes / regulations. <S> For instance, the UPC states: <S> 604.11.2 Water Heater Connections . <S> PEX shall not be installed within the first 18 inches (457 mm) of piping connected to a water heater. <S> The specifics of what your local regulations state can vary widely, so you should inquire with your local officials. <S> For example: Install a minimum 18 inches of metallic or other approved material piping between water heater and PEX tubing. <S> from the TUBING INSTALLATIONPRACTICES section of INSTALLATION HANDBOOK: <S> Cross-linked Polyethylene (PEX)Hot and Cold Water-Distribution Systems of the Plastic Pipe and Fittings Association. <A> Pre-assembled copper right angle extensions do exist. <S> If you can't get your hands on one, a plumber could assemble one for you. <S> It's just a 3/4 FIP to a short piece of copper pipe, to an eblow, to 18 inches of copper pipe. <S> It might even end up being SHORTER than what you have now. <A> Did it explicitly say copper? <S> I have used flex line from PEX to the water heater. <S> They come in 18” or 24” length some with a shut off valve. <S> I assumed it met that requirement. <A> Bend it in a loop if you have to. <S> Don't make it difficult.
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Another potential restriction could come from piping manufacturer's rules or recommendations. Use 18" copper flex line, sweat a PEX starter to it.
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How can I accommodate high washing machine drain flow rates with older plumbing? Newer machines have a drain flow rate which overwhelms older drains, and there's no adjustment. The only answer I ever hear is tear up your floor and put in new bigger drain pipe. That is not an option in some cases. Getting an older machine isn't feasible because it's starting to be hard if not impossible to find parts. Is there any way of cutting the pressure down so it doesn't back up and flood the floor in older homes? <Q> You could try building your own washing machine "sump". <S> Build a temporary storage tank for the water from your washing machine. <S> You could use a (plastic) drum or bucket with a capacity which exceeds the total water capacity of your washing machine by at least 50% (100% or more would probably be better to be on the safe side). <S> Let the washing machine drain into the temporary storage. <S> In the temporary storage tank install a (sump) pump with a flow rate that matches your home's drainage system. <S> The pump can the either be manually operated or have an automatic switch to turn on when a certain amount of water has been pumped into the storage tank. <S> Make sure the pump used can handle the occasional solids that may be ejected by your washing machine. <S> In The Netherlands a company sells a product which can also be used in this situation, here <S> is the company's site. <S> The site is in Dutch and French <S> but you should be able to get the gist of it or use google translate. <S> I'd assume that in your country comparable products would be sold. <A> The answer is to install a large(r) standpipe. <S> Some older homes have a 1 1/2" or 2" galvanized standpipe (with trap at the bottom) inside of the wall. <S> Others have the trap on the outside of the wall, with a traditional thin-walled galvanized standpipe running up the wall from the trap. <S> Both are undersized for newer washers with pump outputs that exceed their capacity. <S> For outside the wall traps, it is relatively simple to build a larger diameter standpipe out of ABS or PVC pipe, adapting it to fit into the existing (or better, newly replaced) trap. <S> For inside the wall setups it is a bit more invasive but still DIY feasible to open the wall and remove the original galvanized standpipe, plumb the trap to the outside of the wall, and build a larger diameter standpipe as outlined above. <S> The larger standpipe gives more holding capacity to allow your old crusty occluded drain system time to drain down prior to overflow. <S> I have "fixed" several issues like yours with 3" ABS standpipes. <S> Another option is the old laundry tub trick. <A> One reported solution is to put a restriction fitting on the back of the washing machine. <S> Obviously this could damage the washing machine if the pressure inside rose too high or could cause a leak inside the machine. <S> But maybe a modest restriction would reduce the flow rate enough to prevent drain overflow without causing these negative effects. <S> Our new Samsung top loader has a larger drain line than our old Maytag and a different type <S> (but we have not had any overflows from the 2" down-tube). <S> Perhaps one could plumb in a 1" or 1.5" PVC ball valve so one could adjust the resistance to achieve no overflow with the least restriction. <S> https://www.doityourself.com/forum/plumbing-piping/297214-washing-machine-drains-too-fast.html <S> 03-08-07, 10:44 AM formula formula is offline Member Join Date: <S> Jan 2007 Location: Central Indiana Posts: <S> 389 <S> Even though GregH told you, "No, You can not slow down the flow of the washer", this is precisely what you can do. <S> I've done it to solve the exact same problem. <S> There is nothing sacred about a washing machine pump. <S> It's just a centrifugal pump; if it has to pump against a little more restriction, it really doesn't care. <S> I lived in a house built in the mid 1960's and the plumbing drains just weren't done properly; not enough venting, and not enough flow capacity. <S> The washing machine would overload its drain and start overflowing. <S> A solution to your problem is to put a restriction in your washing machine discharge hose to slow down its flow to what your drain can handle. <S> Just don't slow it down to the point that your washing machine timer times out and goes on to the next step in the cycle! <S> I think I used a copper reducer fitting (copper solder fitting) that would fit inside the discharge hose and reduce down to 1/2" or so. <S> I placed the fitting inside the drain hose where it connects to the back of the washing machine and then put a hose clamp around it to hold it in place. <A> i use a switch. <S> Put floating lever on top of the drain pipe, and when the overflowing water hits it, the switch disconnects the relay and shuts the washing machine power. <A> An alternate, unexpensive option without any changes to the building or plumbing might be a phase control unit which is directly inserted to the hot wire to the drain pump motor. <S> F.e. <S> many modern vacuum cleaners have such a unit to change/adapt the power of the ca. <S> 800W vacuum cleaner motor. <S> The drain pump does normally not have more then 200W (typical 50-120W), but it lacks the air flow of a vacuum cleaner which is used to cool the triac. <S> Due to its construction and low efficiency the drain motor needs some minimum power to reliably start under load - the dial should be adjusted accordingly. <S> These phase control units - which must be suited for inductive/motor loads - are available in the Internet for a low budget or even free at the next recycling yard , where many vacuum cleaners can be found. <S> This method requests some skills, knowledge and precaution, the drain pumps of washing machines are normally supplied by the dangerous line voltage . <S> It should be done by an electrician . <S> Via this phase control <S> the drain pump throughput could be adjusted just like the motor of a vacuum cleaner.
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Maybe a change to the old style of drain hose would allow plumbing in a PVC ball valve or maybe a smaller diameter drain hose would by itself restrict the flow enough to prevent overflow.
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How do I flash two joining peaks of different heights? I'm trying to figure out how to flash this part of a shed I'm building that has a peak meeting flush with a larger roof section next to it. But I can't figure out what this sort of roof section is called so I can't seem to find any good information on google. What is this called, or how do I flash it? <Q> You could do the same with sheet copper. <S> It would probably tear a bit, but then solder a small patch over the small tear. <S> With either copper or lead, you can do it with one piece by folding the sheet onto itself creating a z-fold yielding a triple layer. <S> Start by laying it up the back side of the small gable, then up the rake board, then flat onto the main roof. <S> Then start the z-fold on what will become the lower edge that spans the small gable and onto the main roof. <S> Once formed, you'll want to install it under the rake board. <S> To help see how to do this, form it first with a rectangular piece of cloth, such as a bath towel. <S> The valley formed by the two lower gables will also need special attention. <S> Cut a narrow triangular piece of sheathing to sit in the valley to create a sloped floor on the valley (that slopes away from the upper gable's wall). <S> From the looks of it, the isosceles triangle would be 4-6 inches across the base, and 18" long (high). <S> The porpuse if the triangle sheathing is to support the flashing. <S> Sheet flashing with z-folds will work there too. <A> How to flash?? <S> ... <S> with lots of peel-and-stick membrane. <S> Remember, lap everything in “shingle fashion”, including the peel-and-stick membrane. <S> Be sure to lap the membrane onto the vertical wall section 12” or so and lap the wall moisture barrier over the membrane 12” or so. <S> Make sure the gable end metal flashing is installed on top of the main moisture barrier under the shingles. <S> (Be sure to turn the membrane down over the rake edge of the roof too.) <A> Where vertical walls meet flat/sloped surfaces we have always nailed a 1 x 4 along the bottom of the wall. <S> Flat/sloped roof membrane laps up onto the 1 x 4, then nailed a tin "Z" flashing over it. <S> Wall membrane laps down over the flashing. <S> In your case, just treat the lower sloped area the same? <S> maybe use 1 x 3 or 1 x 2 to make it less conspicuous <S> but you may have to cut down the z-bar. <S> Like this:
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You could flash it with 2 pieces of sheet lead, which will stretch enough to feather with sufficient overlap.
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Safety equipment for a pressure washer I'm planning to use a pressure washer for the first time, as a "once off" task, to clean and remove caked-on and ground-in mud, dirt and debris from rebar and concrete beams, before I pour concrete to embed them. The pour was delayed for over a year, during which time everything was heavily soaked, walked on, ground in, and baked on, during that time, so I need to strip back to the materials themselves before pouring. I'm aware of the seriousness of injuries that pressure washers can cause. I'm likely to be using an electric-powered washer at the higher end of domestic pressure, in the region of 130 bar/2000 psi operating - not "maximum" - pressure. I've got steel toe leather boots, leather welding gauntlets, and a cheap full-face plastic visor possibly with goggles too, lined up. I can't think of anything specific I could use for leg, torso and arm protection. I'll be working mainly in a long 1.2m x 70cm trench, and spraying the beams and steels from below and at the ends of the beams. The beams stick 20-25cm into the trench from one side. That means it will involve close-range work, at upward and other odd angles, with no scope for a long lance and even "full arms-length" won't be practical for much of it. On a positive note, being in a trench also means there's less scope to trip or fall over, and recoil force should be ok since I'll be almost always be within inches of a rigid vertical backstop behind me. Obviously I'll be pointing it away from me (!) and aiming for avoidance in the first place, but if I'm accidentally caught directly by the spray, by flying debris, or by water spray "bouncing" off the target, will these be adequate, and what else might be appropriate? Also on a similar note, is the spray bouncing back off the target still capable of causing serious injury, or has it lost enough force on impact to no longer do so? Comment: I'm not looking for answers that just say "most people don't do that much, so it's fine" (I know that most people don't do this much). I've had serious injuries and am quite motivated to avoid another. I'm more looking for reasoned comment on the proposed safety measures, the risks, and the scope/reasonableness of anything else that could be worthwhile. Thanks :) <Q> Unless you are unusually clumsy, the extraordinary protective devices you've listed would be excessive. <S> Eye protection in the form of safety goggles or safety glasses would be appropriate. <S> If the debris you are blasting is at or above eye level, your clear plastic shield provides sufficient protection for your entire face. <S> An ordinary ball cap for head protection takes care of the top. <S> If you don't care about being soaked by the water, long sleeve shirt with a button up collar and suitable long pants and boots will protect the rest of your body. <S> Hand protection by gloves of almost any type (other than latex or nitrile) will do the job well. <S> If you wish to avoid being soaked by the spray, there are inexpensive Tyvek brand full body coveralls, equipped with hoods that will shed water. <S> I've used them to operate a weed eater and avoid the "back-spray" of vegetative matter from the cutter. <S> It would be well suited for use with a pressure washer in the environment you describe. <S> All that would be needed beyond the coveralls <S> is a pair of gloves, as the suits include built-in booties. <S> The bounced spray has very little power. <S> I've been struck in the face with bounced spray and it has approximately the force of a strong rain. <S> You may already be aware that the direct force of the spray can cut skin. <S> I can confirm that. <S> I suspect the biggest danger to which you will be exposed is debris and gravity. <S> If the debris is small and the distance is short, neither item should be much of a factor. <S> The air space under a Tyvek coverall and the fabric will absorb much of that energy. <A> I think the worst that you can encounter is contacting your skin with the stream or getting debris in your eyes. <S> I have hit my leg before (when I was young) with the stream and it does tear the skin and hurt, but Iived to tell the story. <S> You'll find that pressure washing in goggles or glasses is difficult, they get quickly covered in spray and dirt. <S> As you mentioned, I take none of these precautions. <S> I only take it seriously when I'm pressure washing on a ladder or anywhere else I can fall. <S> On larger washers, the kick after pulling the trigger is no joke. <A>
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I believe a rain suit and face shield should be enough, I regularly pressure wash my big tractor and have never been injured by the blow back from a 5000 psi 3gpm industrial pressure washer, if you will be working in the trench a pair of rubber boots may make help, I use rubber boots in the winter and even with my gernade tip the rubber will be enough protection as I rinse my boots off with the washer about a foot (pardon the pun) away with no damage to the boots.
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Adding permanent bolt holes in a sliding door I need to cover 3 large windows in a sliding door every winter. I want to be able to use the same mounting holes every year. The outside of the door seems to be aluminium with wood between. Tee nuts are one possibility but are there better options? <Q> Threaded inserts are often used where repeated removal is needed. <S> They come in a variety of types, sizes and materials. <S> The door core is likely softwood, and stainless or brass fittings are probably needed for exterior use. <S> Some inserts come in a kit with drill bit and insertion tool. <S> Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources <A> There are two fasteners that ought to work for you. <S> One is an expanding screw anchor <S> These are quick and easy to install, but if the door has a solid wood core, it will not permit the anchor to expand. <S> The other product that may work for you is a rivet nut even if the door has a solid core, it will probably allow the rivet nut to expand. <A> I just so happen to work at a Window and Door manufacturer <S> and I would recommend locating a set of shop drawings (cross sections) of your door if they are available. <S> Why I bring this up is because in the frame and mullion members (the vertical members between the glass) may be constructed in a few ways. <S> Depending on the material used, those members may be: solid (i.e. wood or composite); hollow with multiple little chambers (with or without metal reinforcement) <S> (i.e. PVC or composite); or hollow with thick walls (i.e. PVC). <S> At times, especially with the multi-chamber config, you may inadvertently screw into a weak point that can crack/damage the patio door frame/members or compromise the door's drainage path or weather resistance. <S> You should also consider how deep the glazing cavity is as well or, <S> depending on where you install your fasteners, you might screw into the glass itself at the risk of cracking or shattering it. <S> With shop drawings from either the supplier or manufacturer, you can better determine what the door is made out of, where best to screw into, and what type of screw will be best suited for your needs. <S> Best of luck! <A> There are two main problems with putting the nut part of the nut and bolt in the door. <S> This requires the removal of a lot of material, probably a hole that is 1/2" to 3/4". <S> The insert could pull out of the door. <S> Drilling into a glass sliding door is pretty sketchy. <S> Minimizing drill bit diameter is going to maximize probability of success. <S> Using a bolts will maximize strength and minimize hole size. <S> Viewed from the side it would look like this: (inside) <S> Bolt -- <S> > <S> Sliding Door -- <S> > <S> Plywood Cover -- <S> > <S> Nut (outside) <S> Using this solution, four bolt heads would be visible on the inside of the door, and four bolt ends capped with nuts would be visible on the outside of the door. <A> I don't know if this is practical in your instance, but wouldn't it be better to attach covers to the frame of the door or the soffit/roof joists and deck or patio?
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While threaded inserts, T-nuts, or expanding anchors may be the most aesthetically pleasing solutions, they are not the strongest, easiest, or cheapest.
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Can I use #8 wire in a 15 or 20A circuit? I have a customer with a detached garage/shed unit that wants to install a few outlets and light fixtures/recessed lighting - common residential use, meaning no heavy power tools, washers/dryers, etc. The CLOSEST power supply to the unit is 8 AWG wire rated for 40A-- which is coming from a 40A breaker in the panel. This breaker previously powered an outdoor spa. The wire is run via underground conduit out to the original spa location -- which has since been removed. The conduit opening is about 6 feet away from the garage. My initial plan was to swap the 40A breaker in the panel to 15A or 20A and pull out the 8 gauge wire entirely and swap it with 14 AWG or 12 AWG. From there, I would extend the conduit to the garage and wire up the receptacles and lights from there. The customer wants to know WHY we can't just simply "tap into" or use the end of the existing conduit run with 8 AWG as a junction point for the 14/12AWG that will run into the garage. Besides always wanting to matching the wire gauge EXACTLY to the breaker I have in the panel -- I didn't have a good response. Obviously running NEW matching wire adds more to his cost -- so I want to be sure there is a technical standard I'm meeting by pushing for doing this. What options do I have here? Or is the customer correct? <Q> You're always allowed to use bigger wire <S> The circuit ampacity defines the minimum wire size needed. <S> If you have larger wire on hand, go ahead and use it. <S> For instance I often run single appliance circuits that demand a 15A breaker. <S> However, I stock 10 colors of #12. <S> I don't stock #14 at all because it's a useless and redundant wire size for me, I'd rarely use it. <S> So the circuit gets run in #12 and breakered 15A. <S> It's a 15A circuit because it's breakered 15A . <S> Good to be self-aware of the impulse to always match wire size exactly to the breaker. <S> That is a false impulse. <S> There are actually several reasons to consider an upsize besides the one I use: distance, conduit crowding, and <S> The splice must be accessible <S> So there must remain a hatch cover which can be removed to get to that splice. <S> Even if there was not a splice, if it is a junction box or other pulling access, it also must remain accessible. <S> If you wanted to bury the old junction site, you would need to reconfigure the conduit so it was straight thru, without any stops, to the garage. <S> Then I would see if I could shift the #8 wire so instead of going from spa to panel, it goes from the garage to a point still inside the house where you could fit a junction box. <S> Then extend the #8 from there to the service panel <S> so the whole run is #8. <S> Keep it metal <S> If the old conduit was metal, extend in metal of the same type. <S> IMC and Rigid conduit can be buried at 6" cover, which is pretty handy. <S> Otherwise you will be at 18". <S> Those metal conduits are able to serve as the ground wire. <S> You need separate neutral and grounds, no bootlegging. <A> There are many folks who advise against doing so because it might confuse someone later that would change the breaker without looking at the whole circuit, but it's not a code violation at all - codes specs minimum size. <S> More is always fine. <S> That future person needs to be a responsible worker, or not do this type of work. <S> I would strongly suggest using 8 Ga for the short run into the garage, and then splitting down to to 12 or 14 depending on what size breaker you swap to - but you don't have to <S> - it would make the sub-panel option (if there are 4 wires) easier in the future, and it also makes the point where 12 connects to 8 more easily findable by the future worker, if any. <S> It would be cheaper, in my experience, than pulling out and replacing cable, especially if the pulling out and replacing is not done DIY but by a paid worker, as your question appears to imply. <S> Whatever means you use to splice the wires needs to be listed for the wire sizes you splice, but that's not hard to find at all. <A> Thus, if you wire the lights / receptacles with #12 wire, you have to put a 20A breaker on; you cannot leave the 40A there. <S> All devices and connectors must be used according to their instructions, or else you violate the UL listing. <S> This means if you have wirenuts that will accept a #8 and #14, you're good to go. <S> If the 20A breaker accepts a #8 wire, good, otherwise pigtail it in. <A> Since a 20 amp breaker probably won't accept #8 wire I would use a blue+gray scotch lock wire nut or the large blue ideal brand they are listed for #6&14 (14 minimum size but can take quite a bit more than that) at each end with a 20 amp breaker but use 12 gauge at each end to make the change in size totally legal and with the splice in the panel it will be obvious what was done. <S> I agree that if it is a 4 wire a 40 amp sub makes more sense . <S> a small 100 amp main panel is under 70$ this provides a local disconnect and if fed by the existing 40 amp circuit <S> only a few 15 & 20 amp breakers would be needed + a ground rod well under 100$
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There is nothing inherently wrong with mixing wire sizes, provided that a few rules are followed: The breaker must be sized according to the smallest wire / lowest-current-device in the circuit. yeah, use of existing wire. There's nothing in code against oversizing wire (where you would change the breaker to 15-20A) or oversizing it for only part of the run. One of the rules of splicing in conduit is the splice must remain accessible. I'm not getting "triple a few hundred" for a subpanel install based on my own experience with the price of small sub-panels, assuming you have a 4-wire 40 amp feed within 6 feet of the building to be served. Be sure it's wet location rated as it's going to be a junction box in an exterior conduit, but again, not hard to find at all, done all the time, just know what you are doing or hire someone who does.
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Correct crimping tool for these sleeves? Are these the correct sleeves? I recently bought these aluminum sleeves for 3/16" wire, and this crimper tool . They will be used with this 1/8" wire coated to 3/16" I started using it today, and it seems the tool is too small. I pressed as hard as I could, and not even a dent on the sleeve. Either that or the sleeve is way too hard. Two questions: For 1/8" wire coated to 3/16", are these the correct aluminum sleeves? I bought 3/16" sleeves because the wire is technically 3/16" (with the vinyl coating). What crimping tool should I use for these sleeves? I will only be using it for this project, so I don't want to spend a lot. I've already spent too much as it is. For 1/8" wire coated to 3/16", is there a more inexpensive alternative to these aluminum sleeves? <Q> The tool you purchased is for electronics wire connectors and is not strong enough for wire rope/cable ferrules. <S> This is the tool you need. <A> The crimping sleeves that you linked to are made for 3/16" wire rope/cable. <S> For solid wire you would need to use a bolt or screw clamp. <S> For swaging the crimping sleeves with wire rope/cable you would want a tool like shown here. <S> This type uses a double action lever apply a lot of pressure to the sleeve to deform it around and into the wire rope. <S> (Pictures Source: https://www.lelong.com.my/wire-rope-hand-swaging-crimping-tool-30-5-32-5-16-td1002h30-ehardwarestore-I271955B-2007-01-Sale-I.htm ) <A> There are inexpensive multi-size swaging tools available. <S> The model I own and use is available at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty for what may be among the higher prices for this type of tool. <S> Lower prices for the same tool may be available from other sources. <S> This tool is useful to keep cost down when performing only a few or infrequent swaging. <S> $19.50 for the above item, which is about what I paid more than 20 years ago. <S> If you keep the threads lubricated, it will last at least that long. <S> The bolt-cutter designs are going to be faster and easier. <S> I found a closely priced version ($24.98) at <S> The Home Depot which was a surprise to me. <S> If ever I have to secure wire rope in the future, I'll have to check that one out!
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If you have solid wire then those sleeves are not the correct method to join or secure the solid wire.
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Turning 100A Main to subpanel of 200A new main I have a 100A old-style circuit breaker main (~1970, 2 conductor & ground) in the basement. I want to upgrade the circuits in the garage to allow for solar panels and PEV cars, so my thought was to install a new 200A service main outside the basement, turning the old main into a subpanel, and running a new 100-150A subpanel to the garage. So the garage components, being new would need to conform to NEC 2017 code. The question is about the old 100 main that would then become a subpanel. Since it wouldn't conform to newer codes, would I need to replace / upgrade it as well to separate neutral and ground. See attached picture below. Neutral and grounds are together on the same bar, and a braided bare copper wire bonds the box to the neutral bar at the inbound conduit. Also there is no copper grounding rod electrode outside at my house. My gut tells me I have to upgrade this box to new code, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks,Brian Edit. Adding second picture of upper left focus. All responses very helpful, hard to select just one. <Q> First your existing panel falls under the NEC it was built under, whatever it was, in 1970 in your area. <S> This is known as the grandfather clause. <S> So it is fine since you are not trying to add to it, just upgrade your service. <S> Now everything you are installing new has to fall under the code in enforcement in your area today. <S> So your intent as you have stated is fine. <S> The only thing that I would change in the existing panel would be the grounding. <S> Since you are installing a new 200A main the grounding process must start there. <S> So ground the new panel per the current NEC and remove the bonding screw or jumper from your sub-panel. <S> Install an grounding bus in the sub-panel and move your ground (bare wires) to the new grounding bus. <S> I can't give you the exact details of how because of lack of information. <S> Other than that <S> Good luck and stay safe. <A> The panel is fine for new work. <S> It's a BR panel, sold today at Home Depot branded as Eaton. <S> You will need to buy an accessory ground bar (note screw holes on left side of panel awaiting a ground bar) and remove the neutral-ground jumper from the neutral bar. <S> Also those bogus breakers in the lower right need to be replaced by proper BR breakers. <S> Those will cost you, are you sitting down? <S> $14. <S> Most panels use 1" breakers and a relatively similar way of hooking on the tail. <S> However the jaw and busbar are different and not physically compatible, they will snap in but with a weird insertion force, and will later burn up under load. <S> However the ground bar won't get a lot of business. <S> From the mirthful wire colors in use, it is clear that much of your wiring is THHN inside metallic conduit. <S> In those cases, the good metal conduit literally is the ground wire, and no ground wire is present or needed. <S> This can really freak you out if you're seeing it for the first time! <A> You'll need to do a few things while you're in here <S> There are a couple of points that need to be addressed to bring this panel up to where it needs to be for the upgrade. <S> Second, you'll need to fix the alien breaker problem in your panel -- the two bottom-right breakers don't belong in your panel at all as they're the wrong make/model for it <S> (they're Gould QP breakers in a Bryant/Westinghouse BR panel). <S> The proper replacements are a BR250 and a BR120, and should be available just about anywhere that has Eaton breakers available. <S> Third, you'll want to use some white electrical tape to mark the fat neutral wire going up into the top right conduit knockout as a neutral. <S> Simply wrapping the wire in the correct color tape for say, 6" or so will do the trick.
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I would say you are good to go. First off, you'll need to convert this panel to a proper subpanel -- the box bonding jumper will need to be removed, and the grounds moved to a new ground bar (an Eaton GBK21 should suffice given the size of the enclosure).
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GFCI with 2x 20 amp 1 pole breakers I had a 15 amp 1 pole breaker connected to a gfci in my backyard. Now I need more juice. I decommissioned this 15 amp circuit. I fished a 12/3 from a 2 x 20 amp 1 pole breakers thinking I was connecting a regular outlet outside as I've got 2 hot wires now. I thought the GFCI would connect like a regular outlet until I remembered the load/line and my mistake. Could you recommend a solution for this kind of situation. I would rather not install a double box and 2x gfci. I would like to have a single receptacle with 2x 20 amp and be able to gfci it somehow. I could fish a new wire. Else, I ran out of idea. It's a Nova panel 200 amp. 1985 I guess. I use Eaton cutler-hammer DNPL breakers. The double breaker fits bottom right. Not installed on the picture yet. <Q> You have the wrong breaker for what you want to do here <S> The Eaton DNPL (aka BRD) type of breaker is a tandem or double-stuff breaker, that has two circuit breaker mechanisms inside it that share a line terminal, but have separate load lugs. <S> These are used extensively to "cram" circuits into a panel, as we see in your panel. <S> However, since both of the breakers in a double-stuff are connected to the same leg or phase of the service, you cannot use one to feed a multi-wire branch circuit (like the one you propose) without overloading the neutral, since the hot wires in a MWBC must be on different legs or phases to allow only the difference in loads to flow down the neutral, rather than the sum of the loads. <S> If this were a regular branch circuit, you would need to replace the bottom rightmost DNPL1515 and the empty slot with a DNPL152015, then land the wires from the old DNPL1515 on the two outer poles and the new 12AWG wires on the two inner poles. <S> However , this creates other problems, so read on for details. <S> You don't have the space for a GFCI breaker <S> However, there is no such thing as a double-stuff GFCI breaker to begin with, as the electronics required to make a GFCI work take up too much space to be fit into a single breaker package along with the two breaker mechanisms. <S> So, you'll need to put the GFCIs somewhere else -- this could be a "spa panel" placed inline with the circuit with a 2-pole GFCI breaker in it, or a pair of GFCI receptacles or deadfronts at the "end of the line" for the MWBC in that you would have to have the two "sides" of the circuit have separate neutrals from that point on to avoid confusing the GFCIs with improperly divided neutral currents. <S> In this situation, you'll still need to use the DNPL152015 quadplex breaker in the main panel, as described above. <A> /3 <S> cable and double-stuff breakers, Danger danger! <S> You really, really need to read my treatise on double-stuff breakers . <S> Every single breaker in this panel is double-stuff, and the problem is you also have multi-wire branch circuits (MWBCs <S> ) - notice the red and black wires on many breakers particularly the ones in the lower left. <S> That slick trick you are doing, getting 2 whole circuits by running a 12/3, that is a MWBC. <S> Double-stuffs do not work with MWBC, at least not the way you think, because a double-stuff is not a 2-pole breaker . <S> Using them with MWBC you are bound to set your neutral wires on fire. <S> You must use 2-pole breakers for all your MWBCs (the alternative, handle ties, is not feasible with double-stuffs). <S> Those are called quadplex, as discussed in my treatise linked above. <S> MWBC (12/3) and GFCI <S> An entire MWBC can be GFCI protected by one device, but it must protect the entire MWBC <S> which means it must be a 2-pole GFCI unit. <S> Generally those come as breakers, but you will not be using GFCI breakers in this panel! <S> If I had that panel, I would lay a 42 space subpanel right next to it, and abolish all those double-stuffs. <S> MWBCs are considered obsolete because of how they interact with GFCI (not well). <S> However I think they are fine if you have panel spaces to spare for things like 2-pole GFCI breakers, and why shouldn't you? <S> Spaces are cheap. <S> Unfortunately given the sorry state of that panel, yes, your only practical choice for terminating a MWBC with GFCI is to push out to a 2-gang box and fit 2 GFCI+receptacle units side by side. <S> You will not be using the LOAD terminals at all. <S> If you do use the LOAD terminals to continue the two protected circuits onward, you cannot mix their neutrals, GFCI cannot accept that. <S> So you will not be extending onward with 12/3 but rather 12/2/2 or two 12/2‘s. <A> Try using a 2-Pole GFCI outlet , but they are harder to find. <S> Alternatively, depending on your set up you might be able to get away with 2 outdoor GFCI outlet or inline <S> adapters
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The bigger problem for what you want to do though is that you need a two pole GFCI to protect a multi-wire branch circuit, and those only come in breaker form. You already have this problem in several places on this panel. It is a 1-pole breaker with both hots on the same pole.
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Can an electronic ballast be used for a G23 lamp? I have a Rayton R3 UVB lamp for phototherapy. It consists of a this PL-S 9W/01/2P bulb with a G23 base, and the ballast is magnetic 120v/60hz. I would like to swap the ballast for a 240v/50hz ballast, and all I've found is a universal electronic ballast ( here ) but Wikipedia and others say that two pin lamps are designed for conventional (magnetic) ballasts. Does that mean that an electronic ballast should not be used? Can you tell me if the linked ballast is compatible? <Q> The given phototherapy tube is a glow start tube with filaments. <S> The glow starter is built into the base. <S> Glow start tubes are usually driven with conventional magnetic ballasts. <S> The given listing for "universal electronic ballast" is lacking in details (input voltage/frequency ranges, tube current etc.) <S> to give any recommendation for it's suitability. <S> I'd recommend replacing the existing ballast with an European model. <S> For example: http://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/lighting-electronics/fluorescent/fluorescent-electromagnetic/bpl-em-ballasts-for-cfl-pl-t-pl-s-and-pl-c-lamps/913710122350_EU/product or https://www.helvar.com/en/products/L11D240V50Hz/ or any other magnetic ballast with correct frequency, voltage and lamp power. <S> Also when converting the wires might need also upgrading for the higher mains voltage. <S> Consult a local lamp repair shop for advice. <S> Added, since unable to comment: Suitable search terms to try on your favorite online platform: "magnetic ballast 9w" "Helvar L11D" "pl-s ballast". <A> Fluorescents are arc-discharge lights, meaning like neon where a high voltage runs the length of the tube, and that arc must be initially struck on startup. <S> 2-pin simply means the lamp does not have electrode preheaters for gentle startup. <S> They are built extra tough to handle this. <S> So a 2-pin ballast needs a somewhat higher startup voltage. <S> That is not a significant difference, if anything it makes the ballast simpler than a preheat ballast. <S> So yes, it can easily be an electronic ballast. <S> For instance you see the same dichotomy on 48" fluorescent tubes, rapid/programmed start ballasts use the preheaters, instant start ballasts do not. <S> Both are electronic. <S> Once the arc is struck, the tube needs something to limit current. <S> That's tge other job of the ballast, and why they call it a ballast. <S> Again not a problem to do that in an electronic ballast. <S> Getting rid of buzz and flicker is still desirable, so I'm sure somebody makes an electronic ballast for your types of bulb. <S> Not sure I would trust a no-name ballast brand from eBay, though. <S> I would gravitate toward companies with an actual history at making ballasts, like GE, Philips/Advance, Sylvania and others often seen on sites like 1000bulbs.com. <A> I know in the early 2000's the U.S. outlawed magnetic ballast the universal ballast is based on voltage <S> they use 100-277v where the old mag ballast have a specific voltage 120v, 240v,277 as a common in the US now all 3 of these if the same lamp type use 1 type of electronic ballast. <S> You do need to match the ballast type with the lamp if not sized properly the lamp or the ballast will have a shortened life span. <S> The hospital I worked at used some photo therapy (in Oregon) for SAD treatment and we also had white light fixtures with the g23 base that we converted to electronic ballast. <S> Don't go cheap <S> I know the early electronic ballast were a high failure rate item but still find the failure rate high on electronic ballast if not a quality brand compared to the old magnetic ballast that lasted for decades.
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There might be also electronic ballasts for 2 pin tubes with built in glow starters, but usually electronic ballasts need access to all 4 pins of the tube.
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Will water damage a spliced coaxial cable? I have some R6 coaxial cable that runs from the alley underground and into my house to provide high speed internet and TV service. The line was cut by mistake while digging in the backyard. I've spliced it together and service is restored (yay!) but I wonder whether the splice will be OK for the long run. The coaxial cable is inside a 1/2" black plastic pipe of some sort (looks like sprinkler line) as a sort of conduit. There was water inside that black plastic pipe at the point where I cut into it, so the splice will definitely get wet if I leave it there. I stripped the ends of the cut lines, added 2 Compression F Connectors (one on each side), and screwed those compression connectors onto a screw-on splice connector. I haven't yet tried to pull on the coax to see if I could just run a new complete line all the way through. <Q> Chances are good it will oxidize if not hermetically sealed. <S> Ultimately this could result in a failed connection. <S> Also, you've added quite a bit of resistance to the signal. <S> You may see degraded performance, especially downstream of additional splitters and connectors. <A> It could create a dead short, which would likely shut down the service completely, or a high impedance short, which might only affect speed and error rates. <S> There are waterproof direct burial splice kits available for coax. <S> You might not have enough slack to make a splice repair - you might have to cut out a section and splice in a repair section. <A> If this is a house drop, the line that runs from the provider's pedestal to the house, it is going to be RG-6 cable most likely. <S> A bit larger than one-quarter of an inch in diameter. <S> There is a product for cable television installers that meets your description, coax in conduit, although that's a very loose description in my opinion. <S> Ostensibly it's been created to protect the cable from digging cuts (and you can see how that worked out) and to allow pulling of replacement coax. <S> Typically, the installation puts so many bends into the conduit that friction wins over pulling a new line into the tubing. <S> You state that you've spliced it, but did you use coaxial connectors including an F-81 barrel to join the connections? <S> As noted in a previous answer, you may not have enough slack to perform a single connection. <S> If you've not used "industry standard" connectors and had insufficient weatherproofing/waterproofing, you can be assured of poor signal (ghosting, snow/pixelation) and a quick demise to the splice. <S> If you've used the correct connectors and good waterproofing, you may get a few months of service from the connection. <S> Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing provides really good protection, but it has limitations in the underground environment, especially in wet conditions. <S> In twenty years of cable television service, I've performed (against company policy) <S> underground splices of house drops. <S> Almost always (can't think of an exception) <S> I've had to return to replace the entire drop. <S> No need to go all "sprinkler-system" on the trench. <S> It's common to use a square edge shovel, stomp it into the ground and wiggle it fore and aft to make a v-shaped trench. <S> Move one blade to the side and repeat until you reach your goal. <S> Television coaxial cable has no voltage and requires no minimum depth. <S> If you want to ensure future protection, get big-box-store small diameter conduit and trench it in, then put a pull string inside to make the replacement easier. <S> You'd really want to call the cable company to make the connections at the pedestal and house demarcation box to ensure problem free service. <S> Cable Television demarcation box <S> Cable Television pedestal <A> Two long for a comment , Since you have already spliced it I would wrap the splice with a quality electrical tape or rubber linerless 130c type of splicing tape in both cases 50% overlap starting a couple of inches before and after your f fittings <S> I have made emergency repairs where 480v lines were cut underground and wanted to go back and replace the lines but the owner said that was fine as it was a long large wire gauge run <S> I was concerned <S> but it has lasted for over 3 years so far <S> and I know the water table is higher than the splice in the winter as the plant is right next to a wet land area. <S> I used 130 linerless then electrical tape to protect the linerless.
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If water gets into the splice, it will certainly effect the performance of the cable. If your cable company charges you to replace a house drop, you can dig your own trench and ask them for a length of coax to replace the entire damaged run. The (presumably) steel connectors will rust, and the copper core conductor will turn green.
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Borewell circuit box button coming out When i turn on my borewell, after some minutes it stop pulling water and there is a button on circuit board which come out. When i press it in and restart the borewell it just start working and after some time same happen. What is the purpose of this button and why it come out? This is the button Internal circuit <Q> That button is a circuit breaker, which is protecting your wiring from overload. <S> The fact that it pops out means that your pump is drawing too much current for some reason. <S> It's time to pull it up and check it out. <S> There's either some corrosion or something is blocking the impeller. <A> It is a thermal fuse which switches off if the circuit uses too much current. <A> The breaker is rated for 6A and current should be measured to verify that the breaker is performing or the motor is overloaded. <S> I would have expected the Chinese OEM to circle the appropriate options on the label <S> but I see that was not done. <S> Motors can draw up to 3x to 5x rated current on starting and if this persists long than the thermal breaker’s time to heat up, it trips. <S> Measure the current and determine what maintenance is needed or if the workload has changed making the choices undersized. <S> E.g. is silt filter clogged?
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If it comes out regularly that means something is wrong/broken and the equipment should be inspected by a qualified electrical engineer.
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What type of crawlspace setup do I have? New home owner here - I’m working on sealing the furnace ducts that run through our crawlspace. Previous owner used silver duct tape and not the proper mastic or UL approves aluminum tape. Long story short - I realized there are ducts in our crawl that actually blow heated air into the crawlspace. We don’t have AC, just a furnace (located in Pacific Northwest). Is this normal? None of the ducts have insulation either, that was going to be my next task but now I’m questioning if it needs to be done? No insulation under the flooring or on the concrete slab. (Single story ranch home - approx 1500sq ft with a 3.5 ft tall crawlspace) <Q> I have seen this done in our area to keep the pipes from freezing and the floors from being cold. <S> On the homes that do this they usually plug the foundation vents for the winter. <S> Many years ago electric heat was super cheap so this option was less expensive than insulating everything. <S> Most places have gone back and insulated the floors and pipes then closed off the duct to save on heating cost <A> That looks like a black ABS water drain pipe (sewer pipe) right underneath the air duct. <S> There's probably other water supply pipes under there too, right? <S> I'm assuming it gets below freezing in the winter, so if your crawl space had no heat the water pipes could freeze and burst if there were no heat under there. <S> Even if it's just the sewer pipe, if it froze it could plug your sewer line, and water wouldn't drain (and it could burst too). <S> Insulating and sealing the pipe directly in that space wouldn't be necessary, since the end is open and you want to keep the whole space warm anyway. <S> Insulating the outside walls of the crawl space is an option, but you'd have to be careful to avoid creating any condensation that could lead to mould & water problems. <A> If the level of the soil on the other side of the foundation perimeter walls is significantly higher than inside, and if the soil has a high moisture content, then this introduction of warm dry air into the crawl space might be necessary to keep it dry. <S> I would definitely NOT shut off the air completely and if you reduce it to less than 1/3 of the current amount you should monitor the humidity and temperature in the crawl space. <S> It seems to me that the main problem with having significant air flow into the basement from the air handler is that the intake for the air handler is in the living space and so this amounts to a significant net pumping of air out of the living space. <S> This would be especially the case if there is significant installed vent area to the outside from the crawl space. <S> If there are no purpose built vents to the outside, then air pumped into the crawl space will cause exfiltration to the outside and back into the living space (the latter of which would be desirable, except for contaminants, if any). <S> So you could try to reduce to a minimum the airflow into the crawl space from the main air handler. <S> PEX is not destroyed by freezing <S> but obviously it is not acceptable to allow it to freeze, especially since the couplings could be damaged by freezing. <S> Insulating the PEX and the ABS drains could be done, but is not normally done and would interfere with detecting leaks.
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Heat flow into the crawl space through the un-insulated floor of the heated living space above might keep the pipes from freezing.
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Why is 2-3 volts on 120 v circuit that is not connected I see 2-3 volts on a 120 volt circuit that is not connected to a breaker. <Q> Disconnected wires are a radio antenna. <S> They pick up all sorts of junk which high impedance DVMs can see because they are so sensitive. <S> Mind <S> you, on AC mode your meter doesn't only look for 60Hz, though crosstalk between parallel wires is a common source. <S> Plug an incandescent night light into the circuit. <S> I bet the phantom voltage instantly goes away, and the night light does not light. <A> We call this a phantom current and basically ignore it. <S> It could be static or some sort of induction. <S> I would ignore it. <A> These measured voltages are sometimes called phantom voltages. <S> If it were a "real" 2.2 V between the wire and ground, then if you would put your meter into current mode, it would show a significant current, but I would bet it will not.
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Digital voltmeters are highly sensitive and some can detect micro-amps of current.
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How do I connect the two cables entering a switch box for a light? I removed the original light fixture from the side wall which was not connected to a light switch but had a button that turned the light on and off on the fixture itself. I took the original wire in the wall and extended it further down the wall where I had made a new box for a light switch. From that new box I took a second cable and wired up the wall over the ceiling into a brand new light fixture. Now I have two separate cables at the swtich box to connect into a single light swtich. Since the single light switch has only two screws, how do I connect the double white and black cables to it? <Q> Short answer: in the switch box, the blacks go to the switch terminals (not the green one - that's for the bare ground) and the whites are spliced together with a wire nut or other connector. <A> Switch Loop <S> The other answers tell you what to do, but they don't really explain it. <S> (white) going from the fuse/circuit breaker panel to the fixture. <S> Now you have TWO cables: hot (black) and neutral <S> (white) going from the panel to the switch black and white going from the switch to the fixture. <S> What you actually need are: hot from the panel to the switch switched hot from the switch to the fixture neutral from the fixture to the panel <S> switched <S> hot from switch to fixture - use the black wire currently attached to the fixture - connect it to the switch. <S> If the switch has a screw labeled "load", connect it to that screw. <S> As noted by Harper, marking both ends of this wire in red (or some other color that isn't black, white or green) is a good idea and will make things easier for any trouble-shooting by you or a future owner. <S> neutral from switch to fixture - use the white wires and connect them together with a wire nut in the switch box. <S> Do not connect them to the switch . <S> The switched hot does not need to be black. <S> However, if you ever install a dimmer or a smart switch then you will probably need the neutral, and then you can pigtail off of the two neutrals that are connected together. <S> Of course, grounds should be connected as appropriate - the specifics of that will depend on the type of cables, switch, fixture, etc. <S> But basically all grounds go together (but should not be connected to any hot, switched hot or neutral wires). <A> Try a pigtail. <S> I have attached a picture. <S> Ignore the receptacle and pretend it's a light fixture. <S> Good luck
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Here is what you do: hot (black) from panel to switch - if the switch has a screw labeled "line", connect it to that screw. Originally you had hot (black) and neutral The neutral is not used by an ordinary switch. But it often is out of convenience, and that's OK. So I'll try:
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"nuclear option" for mold growth on ceramics and other tiles? I have to clean a long-neglected area that has mold growing on tiled walls and floor. Soap and a good brush is called for, but I'd like to "fortify my assault" with household chemicals. Is there any way that I might spray either a dilute bleach solution, or a dilute ammonia solution (never mix them!) to either first to make scrubbing faster/easier, or to post-treat to remove organics to slow down regrowth? Rather than talk about this specific mold, I'm more curious about a general practice here, using household products beyond soap and water to make scrubbing easier (I'm currently nursing some tendonitis) and/or to remove traces of "mold food" so it won't grow back as quickly. I live in a humid subtropical area, mold is everywhere, it's a constant battle. <Q> Anytime I get any mold growing in a very humid area, like areas around a shower <S> let it sit and the mold goes away. <S> If it is a heavy growth you may need to spray it twice. <S> And yes, wear protective clothing and a respirator. <A> Wen working at a hospital <S> I learned that hydrogen peroxide is one of the best ways to kill organics without the bleach smell. <S> The hospital used 3% hydrogen peroxide and water to clean and sterilize. <S> This solution is stronger than the store bought hydrogen peroxide for personal use if you have a industrial chemical store a quart can be purchased an be added to water then sprayed on the area and rinsed off , remember AAA always add acid to the water, if the growth is severe a stronger solution can be used. <S> I started using this mix many years ago and have found it to be very effective to kill mold and mildew with very little work after letting it sit for a while you can see it working as it kills the mold <S> then a rinse has been all that was needed and no bleach smell. <S> Rubber kitchen gloves to protect your hands and being careful when pouring the full strength hydrogen peroxide into the water is the only safety precautions they used at the hospital <S> and I do the same. <A> If you're in or near the States, I've found Concrobium to be a better long-term solution because it addresses the one thing most chemicals don't: regrowth. <S> It won't solve regrowth permanently, but it inhibits it. <S> Hopefully would buy you more time between cleanings. <S> It's also not bleach based, so you can use it on things like fabric.
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I spray the mold growth with a strong water/bleach mixture (about 4 to 1) water to bleach.
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Do the quick connectors in my new bathroom fan need to be in a junction box? I recently replaced a bathroom extractor fan. The new model uses "quick connect" electrical connectors, where I stick the house wiring into this little plastic device, and apparently that's all! The previous extractor fan used wire nuts in a metal-enclosed space similar to a junction box, but for this new model the wires just dangle out of the extractor fan module, and there's nothing in the instructions about a junction box. Leaving the wires dangling next to the insulation in the ceiling kinda freaks me out. Is that really what I'm supposed to do, or are the connections supposed to be enclosed in something? <Q> They're mentioned several times in the instruction manual . <S> Pull the wire through the hole and into the junction box (not included). <S> Using a quick connector, secure 120 VAC house wiring from the wall switch to the fan as shown in the wiring diagram on page 3. <S> It is odd that this model doesn't provide an integrated box, but you're expected to provide one. <S> Either that or we're all misled by poorly-written instructions and the connections should be made inside the fan housing as with every other fan ever made. <S> Ever. <S> Be sure to use a strain relief on the knockout (which is also usually included). <A> They show it (oddly enough) with armored cabled or conduit, but you can easily do this with NM wire and a NM clamp (you'll need to buy a clamp as they don't supply it). <S> That should be a 1/2" knockout in that cover plate. <S> Note that the pictures on the Home Depot site show the hole, but not the plate as depicted here. <S> I suspect they might have redesigned this to where the housing itself unscrews to allow access <A> You're right that the manual is not clear about the junction box. <S> The fan housing itself either has a junction box, or counts as a junction box. <S> If you're using NMS cable, then you should use an appropriately sized wire clamp. <A> ALL wiring connections, whether wire nutted, kerneyed, or push connectors, MUST be made within some kind of junction box. <S> Most bathroom exhaust fans have an internal junction box specifically for this.
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All connections must be in a junction box. If you're using armored cable, then you need to attach the appropriate fitting to the wiring hole on the housing. But the manual clearly shows this model DOES have a box. Having installed a Hampton Bay myself (Home Depot's in-house brand) I was surprised to hear it didn't have a built-in box (in fact, it would be stranger to find a bathroom exhaust fan that has no box at all).
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Should I overlay or replace 3/8 inch drywall during my room update? I have a living room that I am looking to update. It currently has 1/4" Wall Paneling over 3/8" drywall. The drywall is in very good shape, but has not been taped. The house is from the 50's, so they used nails to attach the drywall to the studs. Those now have a layer of rust on them. I could just tape and mud, but I am worried about the drywall being too thin. My other consideration is to put another layer or 1/4" over it. This would cover over the rusted nails, which have a tendency to pop, and give me a cleaner wall. If this is the recommendation I was also considering what attachment method: drywall adhesive or screws? P.S. The room is getting new windows, so those will be adjusted as needed. <Q> I would just take the 3/8" down and install 1/2". <S> Here's why I suggest it Opening the walls would let you fix things if need be. <S> Want to add some new outlets? <S> Remove older wiring? <S> Add some coaxial or Ethernet? <S> Now's your chance. <S> You said you were adding windows. <S> You'll have an easier time if you just take the old stuff down. <S> 1/4" is less commonly used, so it is slightly more expensive than 1/2" (plus you really need to glue the new boards to the old and that starts adding up). <S> You could always stick 1/2" up over the top of the existing, but if you're going through that trouble, demo isn't that much more on top of that Speaking from experience, hanging new drywall on bare studs is easier than going over the top of existing drywall. <S> There's no guesswork at studs. <S> As to how to attach, I tend to use both nails and screws. <S> When you're mounting the boards, nothing is faster than nails. <S> A few nails will hold the board up. <S> Then I go back and add screws. <S> Be aware that screws are easier to goof up, but I like the lack of movement later. <S> Be sure to smash the nails into the board (as in dent the board around the head) or popping will drive you up the wall later. <A> You're right that 3/8 is too thin. <S> It would be much too prone to impact damage and would feel floppy. <S> I've seen 1/4" drywall installed over old plaster after a house move. <S> It worked out just fine. <S> Even if you need to do in-wall repairs or enhancements, you can reinstall the areas of 3/8 that you cut out and then overlay. <S> I would use some panel adhesive between studs to prevent waviness and sound (and to create a generally stronger wall). <A> I had a house with 1/4" paneling just over studs. <S> It was installed with paneling nails and wasn't holding up well. <S> I nailed it with larger head nails (for roofing I think) to hold it on better. <S> I used drywall compound in the paneling cracks (no tape or anything). <S> Then I wallpapered with a textured paper and painted. <S> Looks much better than plain painted drywall IMO. <S> It also strengthens the wall. <S> It's also advertised as able to hide minor imperfections and it does that well. <S> It's very easy to do, I didn't even remove the moldings. <S> However, it may be more expensive. <S> I don't remember what I paid, but it was more than drywall.
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If you find that removing the 3/8" drywall would be cumbersome, just overlay it with 1/4.
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Replace ceiling fan with fan + light I have an old noisy ceiling fan that I plan to replace. Can I install a ceiling fan with a light fixture regardless of the wiring, or do I need to open it up to see what I'm working with before buying the new fan? There's only one switch that controls the ceiling fan, I'm not sure if there's wiring for a second switch in the box or not. Regardless, I don't particularly mind if there's only a single switch for the fan/light - I can always use the pull cord to turn the fan on/off. <Q> I would open it up at the switch-box end if I were you <S> If so, then you can use a double switch to have separate wall switches for the light and fan. <S> If not, then you're stuck using the pull chains, a fan remote, or a specialized controller that lets you control the light and fan from a single wall device. <A> You can. <S> Only difference being, if the existing fan is switched, that your light and fan will be powered by the same switch. <S> You can optionally use the new units pull cords to operate the fan and light kit separately. <S> You'll have 4 wires attached to the motor. <S> A green ground wire, a white common wire, and a black and usually a blue wire. <S> Twist the black and blue wires together before securely attaching to the black lead that's in the ceiling box with a wire nut. <S> ( Black normally powers the fan while blue powers the light kit. <A> To answer your question your new fan and light fixture will ,more than likely, come seperated in the same box. <S> The motor connects to the existing wires on your ceiling, <S> once the motor is secured you assemble the rest of the fan. <S> The last step is connecting the electrical wires to the fan and then mounting fixture. <S> All the wire you need for the light comes with the fan where I'm pointing.
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What I would do if I were in your shoes is open up the switch box for the switch controlling this fan to see if an extra conductor is present in the cable from the fan to the switch.
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Do I need to switch off A/C external breaker for winter? My home’s A/C has an external circuit breaker. Do I need to switch it off for the winter? <Q> There is no need to switch off the external breaker serving the outside condensing unit. <S> I have never done so in 40 years at our house. <S> I have never heard of anyone doing so, and I have never heard it recommended. <S> In our installation the external box adjacent to the condensing unit contains a double pole switch, not a breaker, but I only shut this off to service the unit. <S> However, my experience is in the relatively warm winters of Dallas, Texas. <A> No, there's no benefit to it whatsoever. <S> Also, on most split systems, the compressor is still in use when the heat is on. <S> For split gas systems, they normally "steal" power from a leg on the compressor circuit to power the blower. <A> No, you should not be doing that.
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It will have no advantage to switch it off. Many of the houses run for long time with external circuit breaker that is working along the HVAC system.
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Why do Contractor Levels have two vials with the same orientation? It seems to me that having multiple vials in the same orientation is redundant, but many levels seems to include this feature. What am I missing? There has to be some reason. <Q> It's useful when using the level in the vertical direction (to e.g., check studs for plumb-ness) so that the bubble is at or near eye level no matter which end is up. <A> For a spirit level to work the tube cannot be perfectly straight and of constant diameter. <S> For the bubble to float towards the middle either the tube curves up towards the middle (a "block vial") or it has greater diameter towards the middle (a "barrel vial"). <S> If it is curved up towards the middle - the cheapest alternative - it won't work upside down. <S> In levels such as your picture the tubes at either end curve in opposite directions, so that the upper one works. <A> Contractor-grade levels are expensive, compared to home-grade levels. <S> Whether that premium cost is justified by build quality or not is a separate topic. <S> So one way to distinguish the more-expensive ones is to have more visible features/accessories like multiple sight vials. <S> A lesser second advantage is redundancy - a finely made level becomes nothing more than a fat straight-edge if its vials are broken or become inaccurate. <S> The best tools are those that keep working, so you can keep working.
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With multiple, you can keep working and continue to use the tool, rather than halting work (which means progress and income stops)
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Two capped hot wires in wall box I'm installing a light fixture in my dining room and there is an existing wall box just below where I want to put the light switch. I'm assuming this old box also contained a switch. I was going to run the lines from the existing box through my switch and to the light. However, when I opened it up and pulled everything out, I was surprised to see that both black wires had been capped but the whites and grounds are still tied together. Does anyone know why the two hots would be capped and not tied together like the others? <Q> That's exactly how it would be left if someone removed the switch. <S> When the switch was there, the two blacks went to the switch, and the whites and grounds were spliced just like that and pushed into the back of the box. <S> After removing the switch, if they wanted to emulate the switch being on, they would have spliced the blacks together. <S> If they wanted to emulate the switch being off, they'd do what they did. <S> That may be because they removed the fixture and did not want hot going somewhere <S> it did not need to be. <A> It is (most likely) an old Switch Loop <S> Switches are confusing until you have that "aha!" <S> moment (which actually took me quite a while). <S> A switched fixture typically includes: Grounds everywhere - connect them together, no reason to disconnect when removing the switch, so they are still connected. <S> Hot from the panel to the switch - that is one of the black wires. <S> Switched Hot from the switch to the fixture - that is the other black wire. <S> However, older switches (and current switches that are "just switches" and not dimmers, smart switches, lighted switches, etc.) <S> do not actually use the neutral. <S> Code now requires a neutral to allow for dimmers, smart switches, lighted switches, etc. <S> so the configuration you found - neutral from fixture and neutral from panel connected together - is perfectly normal. <S> If you need neutral for your new switch, pigtail it to the existing neutrals. <S> So why aren't the blacks connected? <S> Because that would complete the circuit. <S> The gap between the two blacks is equivalent to an "off" switch. <S> As others (especially Harper) often point out, a black switched hot is a convenience (NM cable is normally black + white + ground) but is confusing, so labeling it by putting red electrical tape on both ends (in the switch box and at the fixture) avoids confusion. <S> But most of the time it is just another confusing black wire. <S> The one important thing to figure out is "which black is hot and which one is switched hot". <S> That is actually easy: Using a non-contact tester with the circuit breaker ON, the "hot" black will be live and the "switched hot" going to the fixture will not be live. <A> To understand what you have you should determine which of the two cables has the line <S> hot and its associated neutral. <S> Use a non-contact voltage tester or a standard voltmeter with probes. <S> At this point you could just ignore the extra cable (and maybe disconnect its neutral and cap it) and run a new cable from this box to the new box you want to install. <S> Is there a ceiling box or a wall box for a light near this? <S> Alternatively is there a receptacle near the switch (on the same wall or nearby on a perpendicular wall which is currently not working (check both of the receptacles of a duplex receptacle)? <S> If all nearby receptacles are working, then you would have to look in them to see if there are capped off wires in them. <S> Or look for unusual extra connections like jumpers from one receptacle to the other of the duplex receptacle. <S> Here is one possibility for how these wires came to be in this configuration: <S> There was a switch in this wall box which switched one half of a nearby duplex receptacle (so a floor or table lamp plugged in would be controlled by the wall switch). <S> The other half of the duplex receptacle would have been powered by another cable and was always on. <S> If someone wanted both halves of the duplex receptacle always on, they would disconnect the wire from the switch and connect both receptacles to the always on power.
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The other cable would have supplied power to a light or to a switched receptacle. Neutrals - one from the panel to the switch and one from the switch to the fixture, so they are connected together. Sometimes you will not even find the neutral inside the switch box because it doesn't actually need to be there. If a fixture is still in place then it would always be on.
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How are mini drill bits mounted on a regular sized drill? I have no prior knowledge of drilling but I've stripped a screw on one of my electronics so I need to drill it out to access the insides for a fix. From basic research, I understand that the 'drill chuck' is the hole on the drill where the bit sits. However the majority of drills are suited for 'normal' sized bits. So before I make the wrong purchase, I'd like to know what drill + bit combination I need for holes between 0.5-1mm? <Q> One option that you have is to use a mini-drill chuck adapter or mini-drill chuck. <S> I used the latter term in a search and the auto-fill in The Google added adapter, but the results were the same: <S> This image came from The Home Depot and will accept from 0.00 inches to 0.039 inches (1 mm) according to the specifications. <S> You would find other mini-drill chucks with larger capacity. <S> I dislike the four-jaw configuration, but it's less expensive than a three-jaw chuck. <S> It's easy to get a tiny drill bit misaligned when securing it in a four-jaw design. <S> My initial search appeared at first to return only four-jaw designs, but I was able to locate a three-jaw eventually: <S> It has a price similar to the Home Depot version, but appears to be an online resource known as iOffer . <A> If you're drilling a hole that small near sensitive electronics, you may want to consider a pin vise. <S> They are often available at hobby stores. <S> Here's a picture of one of the first ones I found via Google: Image courtesy of wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk (with a nice description of use), no product reference implied. <S> The top (of some) pivot <S> so you can place a finger there to hold it, then you rotate it by hand. <S> You can even rotate back-and-forth instead of constantly in one direction (because it's easier) and you'll still make a hole. <S> They're very effective at drilling through plastic and pretty reasonable for thin metal. <S> Doing it by hand, you'll be much less likely to do damage to the surrounding areas by having the bit accidentally drift off course or by overdoing the hole and going through something on the other side that you didn't intend to drill through. <A> I think you misunderstand the nature of a good drill's chuck. <S> As you can see from other photos on this page, a chuck is essentially at zero size when fully closed. <S> It's able to accommodate virtually any size bit up to its bore diameter, which is typically 1/2", but may be only 3/8" with older or small drills. <S> I routinely use bits down to 1/16" in my DeWalt drills, and I'm reasonably sure that they'd do half that without issue, should I find the need.
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As an alternative, simply purchase hex-shank bits which will be securely held by even a worn traditional chuck.
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Is an exhaust fan required by code in a new basement half-bath? I am building a half bath in my basement. Is an exhaust fan required by code? Since there is no shower can it be vented into unfinished space? <Q> I can't say for sure about code - it varies a lot by location. <S> But generally either code requires or it is a good idea to have: <S> An exhaust fanor <S> A half-bath (normally that means no tub or shower) will not have as great a need for ventilation as a full bath, but it still needs a fan or window. <S> If you install an exhaust fan, you must vent it to the outside. <S> If you vent it into an attic or other unfinished space then you will eventually get some combination of mold, mildew, damage to insulation, damage to wood and other problems. <S> Venting to the outside is easiest if you can basically go "up" and put a hole (properly caulked/sealed) in the roof, but venting off to the side is acceptable. <S> The total length of the ductwork can be an issue - check the specs on the fan for more information. <S> There is quite a variety of exhaust fans available, but the biggest criteria to consider are noise (typically measured in either sones or decibels) and speed (typically measured in CFM). <S> You generally want the quietest fan you can afford that has at least the minimum speed for your bathroom - which will depend on the size of the bathroom. <A> A bathroom that has a window opening less than 1-1/2 square feet is required to have a fan. <S> The fan cannot vent inside the structure. <A> Yes, a 50 cfm exhaust fan is required and an 80 cfm is required if there is a tub or shower. <S> (See ICC Table R1507.4) <S> Note: <S> 2017 Code does not mention the use of a window as a substitute for an exhaust fan... <S> news to me... <S> it’s always been an option. <S> Exhaust duct to terminate a minimum of 3’ from any window.
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An operable window on an outer wall so that you can vent hot/moist air, chemical fumes from cleaning, etc.
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What's with the whole window thing? Why am I bothering with windows? I am looking at building an addition for a study and one issue is the need for windows. Frankly, I don't need to look out a window at a tree when I am working in my study and much of my work is at night, so the whole "natural light" thing is irrelevant. Windows add a lot of expense and heat loss to the building, so why do people even build windows? So they can look at the ugly bushes or the blind alley or the siding of the house next to them? Let's face facts: most windows do not look out on beautiful ocean vistas, or the Grand Tetons, so why even bother with them? <Q> Let's approach from a different direction: increase of value to your house. <S> Any realtor or homeowner will tell you that certain things add value to your home, and others do not. <S> Even for things that add value, you will only expect to recoup "most" of the cost (since you are doing it for yourself and will only sell to someone else eventually). <S> For evidence, google the phrase "recouping cost of home improvement", and note that a well-done kitchen remodel of 20k will add maybe 16k to the value of your home. <S> With all that in mind, I say:skipping the window does offer short-term savings of a few grand or so,but adding the window is an investment that makes your whole house worth more. <A> Windowless rooms tend to be less appealing to most people for a variety of reasons. <S> Homo Sapiens evolved with psychological and biological connections to daylight. <S> Most of us gravitate to it, and it can affect our moods. <S> Fresh air can have a similar effect, refreshing and invigorating us. <S> Even if you're consciously unaware of these effects, they're present in most people. <S> If properly positioned with respect to the sun and summer shade trees, they can cut heating costs. <S> And if your bushes (and the wild creatures they attract) are ugly, you may need new bushes. <S> Or a change of attitude. <S> Mr. Sparrow doesn't approve of your current one. <S> Photo credit me https://www.audubon.org/field-guide/bird/white-crowned-sparrow <A> If your “Study” has a bed or couch in it, it’s classified as a “sleeping room” and will need an egress window, unless your entry door opens directly to the exterior. <S> (See ICC R311) <S> If so, you’ll need a smoke detector too. <S> You’re getting a Building Permit, right?
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A well-done addition or remodel is one which 'improves mass appeal' of your house, because then it's easier to sell and more people bid on it. As for your heat loss claim... windows allow solar gain as well.
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Avoid rust where railing anchors into concrete If you have seen railings anchored into concrete, you may have noticed how they tend to rust at the junction between the railing, the concrete and the air. Here is a photo of a pretty typical example: How can this be avoided when building a new railing? <Q> Honestly, I don't think you can. <S> The problem is railings such as this rust from the inside out. <S> The outside gets primed and painted while the inside never gets any kind of treatment. <A> There are no magic tricks but I do have a couple of suggestions: <S> You can use paint as well but compared to a proper galvanization a regular paint is more decorative than protective. <S> Ensure there is no electrical contact between railing and the rebars in the concrete. <S> Otherwise the coating of the railing will act as agalvanization of both the railing and the rebars and disappear muchquicker. <S> Don't use any steel of thickness below 6mm (I prefer using 10mm when designing railings). <S> It will not absorb enough zinc when galvanized, and any loss of thickness when it does begin to rust will result in proportionally larger loss of structural capacity. <S> Expect to do significant repairs to the coating at least every 15 to 25 years as no coating will last longer than that in a corrosive environment. <S> Use a paint with a high zinc content for repairs, not just regular paint. <S> Use anchors of stainless steel — at least grade A4 — to fasten the railing into the concrete. <S> The parts inside the concrete are protected by the high pH-value of concrete but near the surface <S> they are very much exposed and it is impossible to apply anything more than a thin coating on threaded rods of regular steel without rendering the thread useless. <S> Don't use any de-icing salts near the railing. <S> De-icing salts are kryptonite for both concrete and steel. <A> The metal rusts where it's in contact with the concrete because concrete nearly always has free moisture residing in it. <S> That's also where the railing's coating tends to get chipped. <S> Shoes, shovels, bikes, and whatever else bangs into it down low, and sidewalk salt makes it all worse. <S> You can be sure to have a high-quality coating on the metal parts, and you can protect them from impact damage. <S> You can't stop the ravages of time, though. <S> 10 to 20 years is a reasonable life expectancy for iron. <S> Go with something else if you need more time.
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Make sure the steel is hotdip galvanized to a coating thickness of100µm zinc or greater. Aside from using solid "tubing", which is unrealistic, the only other thing I can think of is to "try" to treat the inside of the tubing in areas where water can seep up in to the tubing, such as an anchor point.
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What is the smallest and lightest wire I can use? I currently use a regular 50 foot power cord rated for 15 amps. I use it only for two laptops and one camera, making a draw of about 5 amps at 120 volts, according to the "input" label on the power supplies. The 50 foot cord is heavy and I would like to find a lighter replacement. I have seen cords rated for 13 amps that are a bit lighter, but I think I can do better. If I buy some wire and attach standard power plugs that you can buy at the hardware store, what is the smallest gauge I can safely use, assuming I never try to draw higher than the gear listed above? Would this also be safe for 100 foot power runs, if I connect two 50 foot cords together? To be clear, I'm in the usa and power would always come from standard plugs. <Q> I would never use zip cord for a long extension cord if you care about safety. <S> Connecting cords is not a good idea especially outside <S> I have seen many cords that the molded connectors have melted down that were used within there rating. <S> When you are looking at cords. <S> The letters SJ is junior hard service cord (just an S is hard service heavier covering). <S> O is oil resistance, W is wet, damp and sunlight resistant. <S> SJOW is the more common so cheaper, or possibly SJOOW both inner and outer insulation is oil resistant. <A> Regardless, you must use one of the cable types which is specifically designated as cordage for mains power. <S> You may also find better prices at electrical supply houses rather than big-box stores, online prices will be terrible owing to the cost of shipping. <S> Common mistakes are to take speaker wire or Romex and slap plugs on the end. <S> Romex is listed for use as wiring inside the walls only, as permanent wiring of a structure. <S> It is not meant to be walked on, unless it is . <S> Look for cable designed to go under carpets or other such applications. <S> Watch out for NEC 110.3b <S> (must obey labeling and instructions) and NEC 400.6-8 (allowed and prohibited uses for flexible cords). <S> 99% of the time, Code has a safety-related reason for being that way. <S> For "belt and suspenders" safety, AFCI and GFCI protection will stop arc faults starting fires and ground faults shocking people. <S> One of the weird problems with "lighter wire" is that below a certain size, wire actually starts to get more expensive . <S> This is very notable in THHN single strand wire; #14 is the cheapest and <S> then #16 is higher. <A> 600 W sounds like a lot for those loads, but the labels tend to be overly conservative. <S> In any case, the lightest wire you can use is 2-wire AWG18 "zip cord" or "lamp cord". <S> You should be able to find pre-made extension cords that use this wire, but probably not in 50-foot lengths. <A> There is a table 400.5(A)(1) in the NEC that shows a number of types of 18 AWG cord allowable for up to 10 amps, well over your load. <S> However, in my view, with an extension cord, it's a little more complicated than that. <S> You really have to make this safe from overload in the event that someone unwittingly plugs something in that will push the load on the cord over the safe 10A. <S> To this end I'd want to fuse the hot wire somewhere near the male plug end. <S> Although some plugs in the UK allow a fuse in the plug itself, I think the only option in the US would be to wire in an inline fuse in the cord. <S> This can be done a number of ways, the most popular being a big ugly lump of tape after splicing in the inline fuse. <S> The voltage drop with #18 wire would be about 6 volts, which most laptop and camera power supplies will tolerate, but check the specs.
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Cordage is special stuff, with special insulation optimized for wear resistance, and highly stranded wires meant to flex often. SJOW cord would be the lightest safest option with 18-3 for a 50' run but would move to a larger wire gauge for anything longer.
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Best way to remove all-metal staples from NM wire? Recently purchased an old home that has many different generations of wiring throughout it (K&T, cloth "romex", blue NM, modern NM, conduit-fed). At various points they were fond of using all-metal staples to attach the romex runs to the studs/joists. There are times where I cannot re-run the full wire and would prefer to re-use the existing NM run (if it's in good condition), but sometimes that means removing these staples. What's a good approach to removing them without damaging the cable? <Q> Options abound, but I like side cutters or tile nippers (similar to 'end cutting pliers'). <S> With either, grab the leg of the staple where it enters the wood and pry it up. <S> Don't ever pry against the cable. <A> Firstly, I'd update the wiring. <S> Even if it "looks good" get it to current code and the peace of mind of safe connections, and using 1 wire type etc has value on top of value. <S> If you just aren't going to do that:There's various tools you can buy where one will work better than another in each situation. <S> Basically get a nail puller, its small and managible. <S> Get a 2x4" or 1x4" block, or a 1x1" and cut a slot in it so that you can fit it right over the existing wire. <S> Then use the block as your pivot point for the pry bar to work against. <S> Cut new blocks as needed for awkward locations. <S> You could also use vice-grips and twist opposingly to widen the anchored hole and pull it out. <A> If those metal staples have a wider flattened section across the middle then you should be able to to use a claw hammer to remove them. <S> Position the claw perpendicularly to the wire and slide the slot over the back of the staple - it should grip the staple as the slot in the claw narrows so that you can then lever it our with the hammer.
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Lastly, you could use a dremmel to cleanly cut the staple off (using a cutoff disc) and use a new staple.
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galvanized or stainless turnbuckles for exterior wire rope fence? I'm working on a wire rope fence that looks like this . The difference is that we live fairly close to the ocean, which means lots of salty air. I've bought 1/8" galvanized steel with plastic coating and stainless screw eyes attached to the posts. What's missing are the turnbuckles. Ideally, I would like to buy stainless turnbuckles. The issue is that they don't sell them locally, and amazon is the only store that ships to my country and has a good selection of rather inexpensive stainless turnbuckles, like these . On the other hand, I can find good galvanized steel turnbuckles like these anywhere. Those are the two options. It seems that the galvanized steel turnbuckles are stronger. The problem is that I don't know how long they'll last being so close to the ocean. I can buy the stainless steel turnbuckles, but most of the ones sold in amazon say "light duty" and are being sold by questionable sellers. Would it be a mistake to buy galvanized steel? Just to give you an idea of how bad the corrosion here is: I bought these pliers , and they had shallow rust spots one week later. <Q> The age-old question of whether or not to use alloy materials is subjective. <S> cost vs. longevity consequence/cost of failure <S> Rest assured that the galvanized components will fail. <S> You will then be unable to adjust the tension of the cables. <S> If the consequences of the failure outweigh the initial investment for alloy materials, you should buy stainless (this includes the cable itself as well). <S> For decades and decades the oil industry resisted the use of alloys in piping and vessel construction due to cost; it was just easier and cheaper to replace carbon steel components at their earlier end-of-life. <S> Now, the safety and environmental costs of failure are beginning to outweigh the cost of investment for alloy materials, hence they are now "alloying up". <A> Galvanized will last forever in a desert and a few years " close to the ocean". <S> Stainless usually means 304 or 316 ; 316 is better near the ocean . <A> I have used galvanized messenger wire for services throughout my career to support feeder wires and service entrance wires and have never heard of a failure (other than wind damage from storms on the west coast of USA.) <S> In fact many steel items can be recoated with a zinc rich paint or cold process galvinization spray paint. <S> One thing that have seen if plastic coated wire is used after a few years the plastic coating may discolor and crack, even the covering that has UV protection lasted less than 10 years however the wire rope is still in good shape after 20+ years. <S> I did repaint several of the wire clamps about 6 or 7 years ago as they were showing rust spots <S> but I do expect this to outlast me. <A> "swageless stainless steel turnbuckle tensioners with lag screws" - quote from a deleted answer, and what you should be looking for imo, just like the suggestion in <S> this answer on your other question. <S> Or even better, 'swage able stainless steel turnbuckle tensioners without lagscrews' (the hidden kind, like what I'd assume they used in the picture, and <S> what you're SO probably expects it to look like). <S> Obviously SS will last longer, that choice is up to you, but if you want it to look like a picture out of Better Homes and Gardens , it will be stainless, and use hidden fasteners. <S> Neither anything galvanized nor classic style turnbuckles will be involved. <S> You've been advised to search marine stores for hardware, but anything with boats arbitrarily triples the cost. <S> Luckily you're after railing hardware, which is only double....
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Very pricey but, monel would be the best ; available as boat hardware at a marine supply source.
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Making sure old Honeywell Thermostat (round dial) doesn't turn on I've had to cover my baseboard heater with painter's tape and duct tape because I keep getting click beetles strolling into my apartment after 6pm (I live in Michigan, and the temps are dropping). I want to make sure that when I am sleeping, the heat doesn't kick on and melt the tape. When I set the dial all the way to the left, does it act like a switch (ie, turn off the heat)? Or, will it kick on anyway once the temp falls under a certain temp, even though I set the dial as far to the left as possible? I am waiting for the landlord to come up resolve the issue but it won't be till the weekend, and am just bundling up nice and warm. Any help would be astronomically appreciated! <Q> If you can't turn it off, turn it to cool. <S> If your thermostat doesn't have a switch like that, turn off the circuit breaker for the heater. <A> With base board heat depending on the size each room may have there own breaker at worst there may be 2 rooms that are controlled by 1 breaker . <S> Even if the other side is hot the heater won't be able to turn on if 120v or 240v <S> many older installed 240v line voltage thermostats only break 1 leg then <S> the heater can't heat and the power can be turned back on to run the second heater. <A> Turn the thermostat very carefully to the left and pay attention. <S> It operates smoothy through most of its range, but when it gets to the left, can you feel and hear a slight "click" like it's hopping over a detent? <S> If you don't feel that, then the thermostat does not have a hard "off" position. <S> This is typical in 1-pole thermostats. <S> In 2-pole thermostats like Honeywell, one pole is switched thermally only and the "off" position has no effect on it. <S> And the other pole is switched by the on/off <S> switch only and disregards temperature. <S> They are meant to be wired in series. <S> A 1-pole thermostat omits the on/off switch. <S> Any of these thermostats are about $12; you could ask the landlord to swap your 1-pole for a 2-pole.
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Look for an on/off switch or a heat/cool switch on the thermostat. If 2 rooms , you could turn the breaker off remove 1 hot leg and wire nut.
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Does this thermostat/furnace wiring make sense? Hoping I am positing this in the appropriate forum - please see the image below: https://imgur.com/upWbb6g Thermostat is a Honeywell TH4110D and furnace is a late 1980's installed Lennox G8D2. What is confusing to me is why the "R" and "Rc" terminals are bridged at the thermostat, and if they should be bridged in this configuration. I ask because I am interested in upgrading to a smart thermostat ("C" is available through an unused wire in the bundle). https://imgur.com/SNkmxpK https://imgur.com/a/MHlaNdQ Any help is appreciated, thanks. <Q> Many thermostats can figure it out on their own these days Modern "smart" thermostats such as Nests and ecobees have electronics inside them that figures out if they're being powered from Rh, Rc, or both, and handles the situation accordingly (usually giving preference to Rc if power is present both places), which means that they don't need a Rh-Rc jumper. <S> If your new 'stat does need the jumper, it will come with it <S> If your new thermostat isn't that smart (i.e. needs a Rh/Rc jumper), it will come with one, similar to the one on your current thermostat. <A> R terminal is your 24volt control power. <S> Rc stands for 24v Cooling.. <S> Rh stands for 24v heating. <S> Some older cooling systems have their own transformer inside the condensing unit. <S> If this is the case then the 24v to stat needs to be separated. <S> if this is NOT the case then you must have a jumper wire between the Rc & Rh to get proper control voltage to both pieces of equipment. <S> Some newer digital T-stats have that separation built in. <S> The stat themselves can determine what voltage is needed. <S> NOT all digital thermostats can do this. <S> Its always recommended to read AND understand the instructions that come with your T-stat. <A> How do you know if your thermostat is bad when calling for heat, get a piece of wire and jump R to W, that says I want <S> power to my furnace without the thermostats switch <S> The thermostats wiring just says R red is power from the furnaces transformer, RC is power from the ac units transformer <S> , W white is a loner until the switch closes for heat then power goes down it into the furnace, Y is also a loner until the thermostat switch closes for cool air, then green is your fan - is it coming from your furnace or your ac unit or both, if you have 2 fans you can hook one up to a light switch and only turn it on when you want a boost
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This jumper is needed because the thermostat doesn't have the electronics to figure out which terminal to draw power from on its own, and some situations (such as boilers, wall furnaces, and the likes) require the thermostat to keep the heating side power (Rh/W) rigorously separated from the cooling side power (Rc/G/Y).
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Why do I have Insulation in internal wall between two rooms? I have been carrying out a bit of DIY in my bathroom, in a new wall which was put up with my loft conversion which happened of the winter. Inside this new wall, I've found a significant quantity of insulation (rockwall or something of the like). Clearly this was put in for a reason. But this is in a wall separating my bathroom from my internal staircase to the loft, so there is unlikely to be much of a thermal gradient between these two rooms. Can anyone tell me why this was put in? Thermal insulation seems irrelevant, unless maybe it's to increase the fire redundancy of the partition wall. Only other idea I had was sound insulation, but wouldn't expect it to have that much effect. I'm in the UK in case that helps anyone. <Q> It was probably installed to reduce sound transmission. <S> It's common to see materials that are more dense than fiberglass used as acoustic insulation, but fiberglass is used as well. <S> The sounds of water running and being flushed, drawers being closed, and other... <S> human activities is often something folks wish to reduce in areas designed for serenity, such as a loft. <A> Around the bathroom, it is most likely for noise isolation. <S> Usually the material used in this application is different from standard fibreglass batts. <S> I've used Roxul AFB in this way before. <S> It is a rock based material, and the structure of it deadens transmission of sound. <S> We didn't do actual acoustic tests, but anecdotally the stuff really works well to keep noise down. <S> It might also be worth pointing out <S> you may find this material in other locations, as it is usually also a fire-retardant. <S> We put it around kitchens, or in walls separating a garage from the main housing space. <S> Also in every wall in commercial/office space, but I doubt that applies here. <A> Thermal insulation between bathroom and the rest of the house is very relevant. <S> Bathroom is a room which is expected to be sometimes used naked, contrary to the rest of the house. <S> Which means that the temperature in bathroom is expected to be kept at a higher value than the rest of the house . <S> For example, Polish building code in requirements for heating systems: in "rooms meant for constant occupancy of humans without wearing overcoats" <S> (eg: a living room) - "ability to maintain temperature at least +20°C", while in "rooms meant for undressing or for occupancy of naked humans" (eg: locker rooms or bathrooms) <S> it's up to +24°C. <S> That's 4°C warmer than the rest of the house. <S> Note that the law doesn't tell you to actually keep it that warm, just that you could if you wish so. <S> So, it's only reasonable to insulate a bathroom against the rest of the house, to avoid heating up adjoining rooms. <S> Also, the bathroom heats up (eg from a long, hot shower) even if you don't meant it too. <S> Having cold spots on walls would increase condensation there, leading to increased water damage. <S> Rockwool is not a sound insulation per se, but the empty space between drywall acts like a resonator - so filling it up with anything <S> yields noticeable improvement. <S> Filling it up with sand or concrete would insulate sounds even better, but the thermal performance would suffer. <S> And would require tougher structure to cope with the extra weight. <A> Closing the door and heating vents in an unused space, like a guest bedroom, will cause that room to be minimally heated and cut the cu.ft. <S> of space heated, and thus the heating bill. <S> Insulating the surrounding walls will reduce the heat loss from the fully heated space to the minimally heated space. <S> I built a house that way and it works quite well.
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Insulating internal walls is also useful for heat loss. This example is not about requirements in a particular country, but about general expectations for a bathroom to "be able to be warmer than the rest of the house".
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How close can CAT6 run to electrical? I've run CAT6 throughout my house, mostly in the basement where the TV area and office are. I have a cable that goes upstairs to my bedroom along the chimney from the basement to feed a wireless access point. There are 3 spots where the cable comes about 4-6 inches away from electrical wires. The power and ethernet wires are parallel for about 18" and about 4" away from each other. Will this make an impact on my data signal? <Q> CAT6, even "unshielded", is very resistant to electrical interference, just as it can carry very high-speed data while emitting little or no interference. <S> (For fun, here is an explanation of how CatX cables reduce crosstalk and increase EMI resistance.) <S> In real terms, 4" is plenty of spacing, even if you ran the two lines parallel for much longer distances. <A> NFPA 70, National Electric Code (NEC) Section 800.133(A)(2) requires communications wires and cables shall be separated by at least 50mm (2 INCHES) from conductors of any electrical light, power, Class 1 non-power-limited fire alarm or medium-power network-powered broadband communications circuits. <S> Exceptions are if separate raceways or conduit are used for separating the communications cables/wires from the power conductors. <S> This is for parallel runs. <S> They can cross perpendicular at less than 2". <S> An electrical inspector can fail a permit inspection and keep you from obtaining a certificate of occupancy (CO). <S> Differential Manchester Encoding generally prevents induced voltages on your Ethernet cable from power lines from creating an issue. <S> Because he voltage induced on both lines of a twisted pair <S> is the same the differential is zero. <A> CEI states that electreic cables could run in the same conduit if the insulation of all is capable to bear the maximum voltage in the conduit. <S> So if you have 230V <S> the LAN wire must have an insulation rated for at least 230V.
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Plus, your power cables have pairs of conductors carrying current in opposite directions, so any interference they emit is going to rapidly diminish with distance.
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Can I reverse my heating zone? I have a three zone hot water boiler based heating system. The boiler is currently at one end of my ranch style house. The radiators appear to be directionless (no valves or anything). One of the zones covers approximately half my house and it goes LR/DR->Family Room->Master BR then back to the boiler. The MBR is already a cold room for a multitude of reasons (above garage, low radiator to room size ratio and 2 exterior walls) and we are never in the LR/DR but in the current setup it is always significantly warmer than the Family Room (room we are in the most and the location of the thermostat) and Master BR. Would it be possible to drain the zone and reverse the in/out pipes so the flow reverses to MBR-> FR ->LR/DR? I feel like this would work better than using remote sensors with a smart thermostat (I am installing an ecobee anyway for easier control) because the remote sensors would just force the heat on more to make the Family Room and MBR more comfortable while the LR/DR would be sweltering and wasteful. Below I added a picture of the current valve setup, piping example and the input side of the boiler. I definitely have a single loop setup and I realized the zone goes LR/DR->MBR->FR (or so I hope). I think I may follow some of the advice and just add a new zone and split the LR/DR off. I need to do some digging because the MBR is over the garage and the pipes are inaccessible without tearing out the garage ceiling but as long as I can find where the pipe goes I can splice it. <Q> If the radiation is finned tube and you can access the piping from below, you could break-up or split that run in half by running another supply or return connected to the near middle of the run and/or add finned tube radiation in the colder rooms. <S> If you are going to redesign the heating system why not zone some or all the system. <S> You need to answer a few questions such as how the radiation is piped (single loop, mono-flow, etc). <S> There is a lot of possible fixes depending upon just how the system is presently installed. <S> Let us know and add pictures if you can. <A> Assuming that: No flow-checks are in the line except for what's at your furance <S> Then yes, you should be able to do that. <S> You'll need to make the changes after the flow check value on the feed side and circulator or zone value on the return side. <S> When I say 'after', I mean from the point of view of the boiler. <S> That being said, the best idea might be to remove the MBR and FR from the current loop and make them their own loop since it appears that the loop is far too long anyway. <S> You'll need additional equipment in order to add a new loop (circulator/zone value and related electrical equipment, flow-check, thermostat, etc) but in the end, it will make for a more comfortable home. <A> It doesn't look like you can easily reverse the piping system. <S> Series radiator piping is a poor design choice for piping in rads. <S> It's beyond me why anyone does it. <S> In the case of baseboards that are not controllable by an air shutter, seal the openings with tape or stuff something in the opening to restrict air flow. <S> Most baseboards are primarily convectors. <S> In the case of cast iron rad. <S> Covering it with a decorative wooden box reduces it's ability to radiate heat and thus lowering it's heat output. <S> Even simply throwing a heavy blanket over it's helps. <S> Also not bleading at of the air out of cast iron rads effectively reduces their capacity simulating a lower output radiator. <S> Placing furniture in front of radiators reduces their output slightly. <S> Don't do this with delicate or antique furniture as it will dry it out. <S> you could do something like this with less opening <S> Freshhome.com
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Some unconventional methods for cooling a room that is too hot is to cover the radiators with an insulating material. So, boiler-> flow-check or circulator/zone value -> rest of pipe to zone (make changes here) . The zone is one long pipe with no splits (monoflows like kgutwin said) Its normal baseboard along the bottom of the wall Remove the convection currant and you remove much of the outflow of heat.
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How can I wirelessly duplicate a lighting switch I have a ceiling light in my kitchen, which is nice to make the room well-lit but not convenient for actually doing kitchen work (the light is in the middle of the room, so when I stand near a working surface, my body casts shadow on the surface). I want to add under-cabinet LEDs to light the surfaces, but I'd rather not add another switch. Best if I can install them in such way that they're controlled by the same switch as the main light. This switch is an on-off switch that is only wired to the middle of the ceiling. I'm looking for a wireless switch that can turn the under-cabinet lighting on and off according to the main lighting, without replacing its switch. I.e., that the wireless transmitter will be activated by the main lighting circuit being closed and open. <Q> Why make it more complicated than it needs to be? <S> What you really want is a switched-hot and matching neutral to power the undercabinet lighting from. <S> Well, they're right there at the switch box, since that's where power comes in at. <S> No need to fuss with wireless switches or any of that, just a cable (or surface raceway/trunking with wires in it if running a cable through the wall <S> isn't an option) <S> from point A to point B. <A> My suggestion is to pull a 1,5mm^2 wire from the 'switched side' of current light switch to new light fixture location then to 'borrow' a neutral and a PE from an outlet near the new light fixture (possibly coming from the same circuit or the RCD will trip) <S> so you'll have both the switched line and the neutral. <S> You just need an 'electrician probe' to pull the wire inside existing conduits. <A> If you're willing to replace the main switch (not sure why you said "without replacing its switch"), a smart switch can do this. <S> I'll use Insteon as an example since that's what I'm familiar with, but there are other protocols/manufacturers that may also have a solution (Lutron Maestro, Z-wave, etc). <S> (I'm assuming you're in the USA, not sure how many of these product are available in other countries) <S> First, replace your main switch with an Insteon Wall Switch or dimmer , this will control your main kitchen lighting and act as a wireless controller. <S> Then at the cabinets, you can use either a plug in switch/dimmer , a switched outlet , or an embedded micro switch . <S> Then just link the main switch with whatever device you use at the cabinets and they'll work together.
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Using a pigtail and wire nut to tap the switched-hot, and tapping the neutral at the existing junction, going off into a /2 cable to the LED undercabinet lights, and that's all that's needed.
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Protect hardwood floor from bed posts? I have carpet in a bedroom that I am thinking of replacing with a hardwood floor, but the bed has big wooden feet and they might scuff the floor. Is there a standard way to protect the floor? Maybe a rubber pad or cup? <Q> In addition to Jim Stewart's answer, you can buy self-adhesive felt pads to place on the bottom of furniture legs. <S> These allow the furniture to be slid across the floor from time to time, without scratching. <A> The bed has "big wooden feet"-- <S> how big? <S> A large cross section of the ends of the feet decreases the pressure at each point and reduces deformation of the floor. <S> You might be able to use the bed as is with no significant damage to the floor. <S> Or you could make support pads for the feet of the bed out of 1/2 inch plywood. <S> A square 6" x 6" should be enough, then cut off the corners to make an octagon. <S> Some furniture manufacturers put metal buttons on the bottoms of wooden legs. <S> Does your bed have those? <S> If directly in contact with a softer floor, those will cause deformation and scratching. <S> If your bed has those, and you decide to use the bed without pads, pry the metal buttons off with a screwdriver. <S> But if you use wooden pads you can leave them on, especially if you make a slight depression in the wooden pad for the buttons to fit in. <A> I would consider either rubber feet (thick rubber designed for furniture, not just a sheet of rubber because it will tear) or sticky felt (one side is sticky, the other is felt). <S> I use rubber on our couch. <S> It doesn't move and protects our wood floor and felt for our furniture we don't sit. <S> If you felt furniture you sit/lay on, it will move around the room.
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You can buy glider pads for furniture and keep them under the legs all the time. Slightly relieve the edges with sand paper so that it doesn't leave edge marks.
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How do I bleed a noisy radiant heat system? I have a gas fueled (converted from oil just a few years ago) boiler in my basement with an integrated tank-less water heating system for the showers/taps/etc. The output is three zones as shown in the picture below. Only zones one and two ever get used. Zone 3 maybe twice a winters gets turned on. Not shown in either picture is a drain spigot. To describe what is happening here:The water supply comes from outside and splits. Half goes directly into the tank-less water heater part of the boiler and the other half move through the PRV and mixes in the air scoop with the return pipe from all three heating zones. There is one pipe and throughout the house the zones all drain into it. This enters the heating part of the boiler. One the left side of the boiler the water moves through a circulator (not shown) and then is split for each of the three zone valves. Each line after the zoning motor has a shutoff valve and a spigot. Last year (late winter) I noticed my hot water heating pipes sounded like a river was flowing through them and efficiency was reduced. I had a plumber come out and he bled the system and recharged the expansion tank (hadn't been done since I bought the house three years ago). He also replaced the bleed valve on top of the air scoop. Unfortunately the baseboard radiators do not have any bleed valves (project for next summer). This past weekend I was installing an ecobee and was shutting off the boiler periodically to do some wiring etc but now the pipes sound like a river again. What could be causing the reintroduction of air into the system? How do I bleed my system? UPDATE: I went down to check the expansion tank and on a lark loosened the bleeder valve cap a little more (it wasn't previously tightened down) and I got a huge spurt of air. Maybe making it a little more loose will help the system. <Q> I ended up not having drain or replace anything. <S> Just loosening the shrader valve cap a little let all the air out and the system is working normally again. <S> Thanks for your help. <A> I suggest you to check pressure of compensation thank on heating system (with system cold at pressure of 0bar, check that the tank has residual pressure of, about 1,2bar). <S> My system was also noisy, i replaced the thank and now is much quiter (my had internal membrane broken so air from inner bladder slowly passed to water). <S> NOTE: not the expansion thank on DHW, but the thank on heating circuit. <A> This system has a typical layout and is easy to bleed. <S> Turn off all three return line valves and hook a hose to one of the boiler drains above one of the valves <S> you just turned off and run it outside or into a bucket. <S> If into a bucket, you may have to empty it once or twice for each zone <S> Manual add water to your boiler using the lever on the automatic water feed until the water pressure is 20-25 PSI. <S> IMPORTANT: <S> Be sure to watch the water PSI the whole time and don't let it get above 25 PSI as the relief valve will open at 30 PSI. <S> If it goes above 25, release the lever. <S> Once it reaches that range, turn on the boiler drain that the hose is connected to and run it until you start to hear or feel air come out of the line. <S> If the PSI drops below 15, turn off the drain and let the pressure build back up and then turn it back on again. <S> Run it until the air stops. <S> If there is no air after a reasonable amount of time, turn the valve back on (the one you turned off earlier next to the drain) for a few seconds to bleed the other end and then turn off the valve and the drain and then repeat the process for the next zone. <S> When you're all done, bring the PSI down to 12 PSI, turn on all the valves you turned on (not the drains) and turn the furnace back on. <S> Keep in mind that the pressure will rise once the water heats back up to normal temperature, if you happen to look at it later. <S> Generally the zones on higher floors will have more air than lower ones <S> so I'd start there.
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Turn off the power to your boiler
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Mounting Computer Under Particle Board Desk I would like to mount a computer under a desktop made from particle board, the desktop is 1/2 inch thick, the computer plus mount weighs about 25lbs. Would the particle board hold? How could I mount the computer to the underside of the desk and ensure it doesn't fall and break? <Q> While there's no problem mounting things to particle board as others have described, 1/2" is just too thin to work with. <S> I would mount another board under your desk using construction or wood glue, at least doubling the current thickness of the top. <S> After that has set up for a day, I'd mount with 3/4" screws (or longer, depending on final thickness), properly piloted. <S> I've mounted many things to 3/4" particle board from below, including dual coat hooks that my kids have used for years. <S> 1/2" just doesn't offer enough grab. <S> It's likely that the screws will pull out a layer of material when it all comes crashing down. <A> They use special coarse thread screws that are made for particle board. <S> They make all kinds of under desk mounts - here's one: <S> The thickness of the material will limit the length of screw you can use; with thin materials, you may need to use more screws for a given task. <S> I'd say as long as you get four screws in, you'll be safe with a 25 pound computer. <A> The answers are good .. <S> just in case you still worry, you also can drill through the board and use a screw, big washer and nut to secure. <S> My tip: if your particle board is bigger than the computer, make sure it is supported by a good structure around it, or your board will bend over time.
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Most of the desks in cubicles and modular furniture are made of particle board and they are able to assemble and mount things with screws, so it should not be a problem.
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Can I run #10 and #12 cables through the same hole in framing lumber? I'll begin by saying that I'm no electrician. I was just wondering about the following: TLDR: Is it ok to have two 12/2 cables and a 10/3 cable going through the same 3/4" hole? For a washer and dryer there are currently two blue boxes with two yellow cables, which I suspect to be 12/2 cables, going through a hole (through wood, but not a floor joist) maybe 3/4" wide. Turns out a gas dryer wasn't possible so I needed a larger wire, so I ran an orange 10/3 cable through the same hole as the 2 12/2 cables. My question is whether or not this is OK? The reason I did this is because the ceiling is going to be boarded up and now is the time to do it. The 10/3 cable going to the panel has a drop ceiling so I am going to let the electrician handle the wiring of that (though for now I did just run it along the joists and to the panel). The 10/3 cable is pretty thick so I did have to tug a little bit to get it through the hole, but it appeared to be undamaged and fine. I'll add by saying that the 10/3 and 12/2 cables are not running parallel once through the hole. In fact they diverge (something like below) ^ | | | | | | | | | 12/2 v<---------10/3 cable ------> * <Q> If the bored hole was longer than 24", you would have to observe the rules for bundling and do derating calculations - that is, figure out the diminished current carrying capacity of the cables. <S> This would be very unusual in house construction, there are not many walls, beams, etc. <S> that are 24" deep. <S> There may be local codes that apply in addition to or instead of the NEC - can't say what applies for your area. <S> Some people have their own rules about how many cables can go through a single bored hole. <S> Sometimes these rules of thumb are pretty popular, and can be confused with actual code requirements, even by inspectors. <S> The safest thing to do in these situations is contact your local code enforcement department and ask. <S> Of course, it's often a lot easier to drill another hole. <A> Assuming the 10/3 is certified for that use, it's legal, although "I did have to tug a little bit to get it through the hole" means it's a tight fit <S> and I'm not sure the building inspector would like it, if the inspector ever sees it. <S> I'd just drill a new hole and be happy to not have to worry about it. <S> FWIW, not all 10/3 is legal to run for house wiring. <S> For example, you can't use SJ or SJO. <A> Yes you can run a cable of #12 and a cable of #10 through the same hole.
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In the US, as far as the National Electrical Code is concerned, you can run three cables through a hole bored in a joist or rafter as long as you can run the cables without damaging them.
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Not possible to build into cathedral ceiling? I have a house that has a two-story cathedral ceiling. I was thinking about adding a floor and turning it into new rooms in the house. However, a web page I read said "Vaulted ceilings create no floor space. In fact, they prevent you from ever building upward and into that space." The author does not further explain this remark. Why would I be unable to build into the space? From a geometrical perspective I could still get 10 foot ceilings in the living room and at least 9-foot ceilings in the upstairs rooms, so there would seem to be no limitation from a headroom perspective. <Q> "Why would I be unable to build into the space?" <S> No idea. <S> You would have to frame into the exiting wall structure (which would require knowledge, or if you ever wanted to re-sell the property you should get an engineering design first). <S> You could also install structural support posts in your existing room, again, as long as they were supported from the floor, joists, beams and rooms below. <S> The importance in this is that ALL load be carried down through structural components that carry weight ALL the way to solid ground. <S> Many people attempt adding rooms or doors, or removing walls and upend the structural integrity of a home causing sagging and movement of the remaining structure. <S> It's not easy to fix these created problems once the home starts shifting, sagging, or moving. <A> Depending on the size of the room, changing a two story room into two stacked one-story rooms is a big job and will require an engineer's stamp, but nothing magic. <S> Essentially all you're doing is inserting a floor at ceiling height. <S> You'll have to provide for a means of access to the new space - might be as simple as a set of stairs up, or cutting a door into an upstairs hallway. <S> The extra load of the structure (and the contents and the occupants) will have to be taken into consideration. <S> For example it's possible that two opposite existing walls are strong enough to carry the additional load to the foundation, and the distance can be spanned by trusses. <S> There will probably be many possible ways to do it and doing a careful comparison of costs <S> could save you a bundle. <S> There will be a million details to deal with - maybe redoing forced hot air ductwork, electrical, moving windows, etc. <S> - etc. <S> It may be that it's not impossible at all, but an addition gives you much more for your money. <A> The addition of an intermediate floor in a 2-story cathedral space is problematic because the foundation, studs, and headers in the load bearing walls were presumably not designed to bear the considerable weight of an intermediate floor and the weight of people and furniture on the floor. <S> And how would the introduced floor joists be connected to the load bearing walls?
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The requirement is that the existing wall structure could support the added weight of the new floor, furniture, and occupants. Generally nothing's really impossible, but a lot of things are impractical, usually due to expense.
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240 V outlet is not delivering 240 V I recently moved into an apartment with a 3-prong, NEMA 10-30 outlet. It looks like this: I bought an old dryer that I confirmed was working before purchasing it and hooked it up and unfortunately the dryer never heated up. I suspected something was up with the outlet, so I busted out the multimeter and measured each connection. I used an Etekcity MSR-R500 and had it set to the AC 500 setting and measured the following: Y to X: 0 V Y to W: 120 V X to W: 120 V Based on my research it would seem that Y to X should have read 240 V, not 0. However, the other two connections are both reading 120 V correctly. I'm wondering what this would typically indicate - bad wiring? If so, what would be a good next step to either fix the issue or confirm the problem? Or at this point is it time to call an electrician? <Q> I bet if you go to your service panel, you're going to find a completely full service panel, and a unique creature we call a " double-stuff breaker ". <S> He's out of space in the panel, so he resorted to those double-stuffs. <S> He moved the dryer from a 2-pole breaker (which takes 2 spaces) to a duplex breaker that takes only one space. <S> As my link discusses, one space sees only one pole, so you get what you saw. <S> Most jurisdictions require commercial work be done only by licensed electricians, and rental properties are considered commercial. <S> You can't, he can't, his handyman can't. <S> A pro electrician is required. <S> Given this level of incompetence, I would not advise trusting that circuit. <S> The obsolete and dangerous 3-prong connections absolutely rely on the neutral wire being intact and not broken. <S> If neutral breaks, the chassis of the dryer becomes electrified and can kill you, especially as you are handling wet things and touching both dryer (electrified) and washer (grounded). <S> This will require you change the dryer plug (back to what it was shipped with), but will be much safer for your family. <A> One possibility is that the two hots, labelled X and Y, are on the same line or leg of the service. <S> The 240V electrical service typical in the US is a three wire Edison circuit, with two of the service wires, commonly called the legs or lines, designated L1 and L2, are at 240VAC at 60Hz, with the neutral tapped midway between the two - 120V L1 to N and 120V L2 to N - and the neutral is grounded. <S> In your electrical panel, a 240V 2-pole breaker will attach to bus bars that are each in turn connected to L1 and L2. <S> So the two poles of the breaker are at 240V. <S> If the wires at that receptacle go back to a 240V breaker, properly installed in the panel, it would be very unusual to see anything but 240V at the receptacle. <S> The 240V breaker straddles both legs, so one terminal is tied to L1, and the other is tied to L2. <S> However if the wires for that receptacle are terminated on two breakers that are both on L1 or both on L2, you will see just what you're seeing. <S> Both of the breakers in a tandem tie to the same leg. <S> There may be other possibilities, including something wrong in the wiring between the breaker and the receptacle. <A> This happened to me a couple of years ago. <S> The builder (in 1972) apparently found some three-phase load centers really cheap and used those in place of a more normal 240V panel. <S> Instead of an ABABAB... pattern on the comb that the breakers plug into, the pattern was AABAAB..., so you had a i in 3 chance of placing a double (240V) breaker with both legs on the same leg of the 240V circuit. <S> And of course, that's exactly what happened when the electrician installed the new dryer circuit a couple of years ago. <A> It's wired wrong. <S> Someone connected both X and Y to the same 110V side of the electrical service. <S> The only fix is to move either the X or Y wire to it's proper location, attached to the other leg of the electrical service. <S> If the wiring problem is in the circuit breaker panel, it's because he used two single pole breakers instead of 1 double pole breaker. <S> If he had used the double pole breaker, it would have been impossible to wire wrong. <S> You need to tell the landlord, and he'll need to get someone to fix it. <S> If he won't fix it, you can actually modify the dryer to run on 110V. <S> It's a simple change and should be documented in the installation instructions. <S> The only problem is that everything will dry very slowly.
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He then wired two of the phases to one leg of the 240V circuit, the third phase to the other leg. Any proper electrician would notice a "red flag" where the duplex sides can turned off individually, making it unsafe for dryer use. For example, if they used a tandem breaker - the space saver breaker that squeezes two breakers in a single space - you'll see just what you're seeing. Quite likely the landlord does his own electrical work or pays a dumb handyman (naughty naughty). Since this is a rental, you can't fix any of this. But since he must fix it, he should consider bringing in someone competent, and upgrading the circuit to modern, safe NEMA 14 standard.
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Is it necessary to use ceiling joists (ties) with conventional rafters? I am going to be putting up an outbuilding with rafters. Is it necessary to use a ceiling joist with conventional rafters? This picture shows that I need one ( https://www.carpentry-pro-framer.com/Roof-Framing.html ) However in this video there is not one ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeNC98mCgoI ) Also, can I just nail the rafter into the ridge board or do I need a metal brace: <Q> Collar ties go on the top third of the rafters, and mainly hold the rafters to the ridge beam, they may or may not be required by local code, or may not be required if you use an approved metal connector like a Simpson rafter tie. <S> Rafter ties go across the bottom third of the rafters, in older construction they could be on the bottom half or bottom two thirds of the rafters. <S> They prevent the roof from flattening, and they're pretty much usually required unless the structure is engineered so the outward thrust is taken into account some other way. <S> For example some cathedral ceilings are made to be stable without rafter ties. <S> In most cases ceiling joists are parallel to the rafters and are installed in such a manner that they function as rafter ties. <A> The video you linked to is definitely not done. <S> There will be either walls added under the ridge board or posts set to support the otherwise severely undersized ridge board to act as a ridge beam. <S> The rafter ties, mentioned in an earlier answer is a new term to me, but would work in lieu of ceiling joists. <S> For what it is worth, I have seen ceiling joists raised above a plate line in the same fashion described like the rafter ties. <S> I still call them ceiling joists. <S> Never the less, an engineer prescribes where all this goes. <S> If you are looking for a cathedral ceiling in your outbuildng you would need a properly sized ridge beam. <S> A ridge beam is a much larger version of the ridge board. <S> it is supported on either end by posts set inside the gable end framing and is strong enough so when the weight of the framing is set to it, along with the roofing and a heavy snow load, the beam will not sag enough to cause damage at the sides of the building. <S> This is something an engineer typically sizes as well. <S> To answer the question about the metal clips at the top, there are not needed, unless required by code because of seismic activity or wind loads. <S> In my opinion, these became necessary when parts of buildings or decks would fall down or roofs blow off because the building trade is pushed so hard and the workers have a nail gun, they do not take the time to fasten anything properly, and because the worker thinks a nail goes into the wood it is doing something, in some cases, it is not. <S> Seen that myself, done that myself. <S> The metal clips are a "how-to" nail properly when the instructions are followed. <S> I have seen that screwed up too. <S> Pardon my cynicism.... <A> The answer depends on the strength and rigidity of the rafters. <S> I've built my last two yard sheds (which, admittedly, were only 10' <S> x 14') using 2x4 rafters with OSB gussets at the top. <S> The gussets were 48" wide at the bottom, effectively acting as collar ties. <S> The roofs on both were rock solid, even under the weight of several adults. <S> Many ears <S> later there's no sign of sag. <S> Since the span of the rafters and their relative stiffness is adequate, it's unlikely that the walls will ever bow significantly. <S> The roof sheathing itself acts as a shear plane, stabilizing the wall position.
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Ceiling joists are used to keep the walls from being pushed out by the roof rafters.
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Fixing the slope of a flat roof I consider myself pretty handy, but when it comes to roofing I have very little experience. I have re-shingled a couple of roof's but that's it. My home is a 1915 victorian home built with a roof sufficiently sloped to not require gutters. At some point someone put a flat roof sun room on the back of the house. The rain pours off the main house on the the flat roof and pools. It is leaking in multiple places including against structural components of the original house. I know I should probably add gutters, but right now I'm more concerned with stopping the pooling water. It seems that the overall pitch will need to be changed. Does anyone have any experience with something like this? I'm not exactly sure where to start. I tried half a dozen contractors and nobody even wants to look at it. I'm sure it's less than fun work, but I think I need to do it. I don't mind doing it myself I just need to know how to get started. <Q> I see two solutions: 1) add slope to your roof, and/or 2) install a tank liner roofing 1) <S> Adding slope can be done two ways: a) cut tapered wood members and install new roof sheathing and a new roof. <S> This can be done on top of the existing roof sheathing or remove the existing sheathing and sister in sloped joists. <S> Either way it will be difficult. <S> b) install tapered insulation on top of the existing sheathing. <S> Then install a low slope roofing. <S> You can buy rigid board insulation that starts at 0” height and increases 1/4” per foot. <S> It can slope one way or two ways (with a ridge or hip). <S> Either alternative has consequences. <S> You’ll be increasing the slope so the roof will get higher and could encroach on the upper roof. <S> 2) Tank liner roofing is basically used to hold water. <S> So, the ponding water you’re experiencing is not a problem. <S> However, tank liners are not made to resist ultra violet rays from the sun <S> so it will decompose in a few years if not protected. <S> I’d install a painted roof coating that reflects the suns rays. <S> You’ll need to reinstall every few years due to wear. <A> With the level of detail provided, the question is basically unanswerable. <S> I suggest you step back and consider what the root of the problem is -- <S> leakage -- and then think about how to deal with that. <S> A qualified general contractor could give you an estimate on building a sloped roof and then sealing it. <S> (If you can't get contractors out to look at it, you need to understand why that is. <S> They could simply be busy, or they might think it's a project that's not going to go anywhere due to cost/ feasibility/ etc.) <S> Once you have numbers from the pros, then you can decide how to proceed. <S> If you want advice here, you'll need to tell us about location, budget, your skills, and most importantly, provide useful drawings/photos showing both the broad context of the structure and the details (ie, where it's leaking). <S> To prepare for the worst case, you should also have guesses as to how your structure has been damaged by past water incursion. <A> Pics would really help. <S> That said, one option may be to add a gable over the roof. <S> That's what I did over my very flat front porch. <S> Other roofing materials may help as well - steel roofs can have much lower slopes then typical shingle roofs.
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A qualified roofer would be able to give you an estimate on sealing up any flat roof.
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How to fix holes in linoleum so that I can lay down sticky tiles over it My kitchen floor has old linoleum. I want to put down sticky tiles over the old linoleum. The linoleum has a few holes. Is there something that I can use to caulk the holes before putting down the sticky tiles? <Q> For small holes I just use spackle. <S> Mix it up and use a putty knife working any air bubbles out. <S> You may need a second application if the holes are deep. <A> You can use what's called "underlayment leveling compound". <S> There are generally two varieties, regular, which you trowel on and level yourself, and "self leveling" that is more liquid, which you pour on and let set, it naturally seeks level. <S> The problem with the self leveling in this case will be the edges of the holes in the old linoleum may end up as ridges that show through your new floor. <S> I would use the old fashioned type and level it myself. <S> Side note: some old flooring contained asbestos and if you knowingly cover it up, in some places you can be prosecuted long after you have sold the house when/if it is discovered. <S> You can send a piece of it off to be tested, but I have just opted for full removal of old linoleum. <S> It's hard work, but worth it in the long run (to me anyway). <A> The most universal answer for how to fix holes before tiling would be to mix up and use a small batch of the thinset <S> you will be laying the tiles into and scrape it level with your existing floor as you would joint compound / spackle on a wall. <S> A subsequent skimcoat with your thinset mortar can help you level out any other imperfections. <S> That said, as Ed eluded to in his answer, you can pretty much fill the hole with anything (mortar, cement, sparkle, painters putty) as long as it will stay put when you go to 'key in' and 'comb' your thin-set mortar. <S> However, it's best to try to match the consistency of the material you are repairing to avoid cracks in your grout lines. <S> Thus for linoleum an electrostatic compound like concrete patch repair or painters caulking / <S> putty would be ideal .
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If the holes are larger, after I have a nice even fill and when dry I will use a paint primer so the tiles will stick better, this is a good idea with self leveling compounds also so the tiles will stick and not have the edges roll up.
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How to mark an outlet as ungrounded I'll be replacing my ungrounded three-prong outlets with tamper-proof GFCI outlets in my home in the USA. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but is there a way to 'universally' mark the outlets as ungrounded for the sake of any future electrician? I figure that if I mark on the inside of the outlet box or outlet the electrician will already be able to see the absence of a green wire. But I don't care to write UNGROUNDED on the outside of every socket with a permanent marker. <Q> The gfci outlet likely comes with a few stickers with "no equipment ground" on them. <S> That is the universal marker. <S> Put them on visibly on the outlet itself and any that is protected by that gfci. <A> Markings where the socket user can see them are mandatory . <S> If you don't like the ugly blue stickers that come with GFCIs, get smooth white cover plates and a thermal labelmaker. <S> They will look professional and like they're part of the cover plate. <S> The GFCI Protected stickers are needed when a GFCI device is used to protect additional plain outlets downstream in the circuit. <S> Did you know you could do that? <S> While you're labeling, add a label for the location of the GFCI device, so people can easily find the RESET button. <S> If it's coming as news to you that GFCI devices can protect downline parts of a circuit, and that you only need one GFCI per circuit, then real simple: <S> Do not use the LOAD terminals . <S> They are not "extra terminals for the other 2 wires" -- they are special, and for wizards only. <S> Just like the warning tape says. <S> If you have 2 wires to attach to the 1 line "hot" screw etc., then use pigtails. <S> Using the LOAD terminals without really knowing how GFCI works, will endanger the success of your project by introducing lots of hard-to-understand complications. <S> The worst thing you can do is daisy chain GFCIs <S> so each one's LOAD feeds the next one's LINE... <S> That will make the network very annoying and confusing to use. <S> It's also a "Yo Dawg" joke. <A> so someone plugging a device in can see there is no equipment ground. <S> Every GFCI outlet I have purchased usually has a bunch of stickers in the box, but the marking is required to be visible on the outside after installing per NEC 406.4.2.
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Use the labelmaker to make GFCI protected and No Equipment Ground labels on white background material. Code requires the outlet to be marked on the outside
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Is Liquid Plumr or Drano safe to use with a septic system? Just as the title asks, is it safe to use products like Liquid Plumr or Drano in a Septic system? <Q> TLDR; <S> As a one-off use, Drano® is fine provided you aren't cleaning your floor or doing a couple loads of whites on the same day. <S> What independent studies say: According to a 2004 paper by Cornell researchers titled "Household Chemicals and your septic system" , despite the assertions of the corporations making Drano® and Liquid-Plumr®, these products can indeed destroy the beneficial bacteria in your tank. <S> Further, the 1987 study preformed by Mark Gross for the Arkansas water resource title "Assessment of the Effects of Household ChemicalsUpon Individual Septic Tank Performances" claims that for a 1,000-gallon septic tank, the maximum allowable maximum daily dosage of common cleaners is as follows : <S> Liquid hypochlorite bleach: 1.3 gallons <S> Pine <S> cleaner: 2.5 gallons <S> Crystal drain cleaner: 0.65 ounces <S> Research Notes: <S> Many plumbers claim that one should worry about the impact of what ever it is that caused your drain in the first place (fats, sanitary napkins, large solids, washing machine lint), than the use of the drain cleaner it self. <S> For this reason, it is preferable to snake your drain rather than clear it with a Drano®. <A> According to Drano <S> Will Drano <S> ® products harm my septic system? <S> Follow the package instructions for the right amount of product to use. <S> Use Drano <S> ® Max Build-Up Remover on a monthly basis to replenish the bacteria in the septic system that help break down toilet paper and organic matter in pipes. <S> And Liquid Plumr Is it safe to use Liquid-Plumr® products if I have a septic system? <S> Yes. <S> It’s safe to use Liquid-Plumr® products if you have a septic system. <S> The ingredients degrade rapidly and will not harm the bacteria in your tank. <A> In what way are you using "safe"? <S> It is not supposed to damage the pipes where some stronger drain cleaners will etch metal pipes. <S> As far as chemicals in the tank it may affect the bacteria until diluted but this is true with even soap and laundry detergent. <S> Over all I would expect infrequent use and that should not damage the system so in that regard <S> I would say it is safe.
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No, all Drano® products are septic safe drain cleaners and will not upset the bacterial action in septic systems. If used in excess, or in combination with other cleaner such as bleach you may encounter problems.
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How do you correctly pull the steel wire and crimp so it's tight enough for turnbuckle? So I'm installing wire between two 4x4 wooden posts. I've done two but it seems to take forever, so I know there's a more efficient way. Here's what I'm doing: The wire's plastic-coated, so I remove about 5" of plastic coating and crimp one side (where the eye screw is). I take the reel and go to the other post, with the turnbuckle. I reach the other post and I pull the wire (without bending it) to know the distance from the eye screw to the turnbuckle, say 30ft for example. I add about 7" (for the crimp) and cut the wire. Then I remove the plastic and put the wire through the crimp. The difficult part is pulling the wire so it's as tight as possible, holding the crimp so that it doesn't move, and then trying to use the very heavy and very uncomfortable swaging tool. At the end, I'm able to crimp the sleeve, but the wire's sagging. The turnbuckle tightens it a bit, but it could be tighter. Is there an easier way? I was considering buying a tool that I can use to pull the wire, but I don't know. <Q> Without photographs or sketches, this is going to be more of a general answer than a precise solution. <S> Focusing on the loose end, you have the cable passing through the sleeve, around the eyebolt and back through the sleeve, with the aforementioned seven inches extending. <S> This extension reaches to a location of some stability, a tree, a stake, the next post in line. <S> The extension is reusable, not wasted. <S> Place a lever at the base of the stable post and attach the extension as low to the lever pivot as possible and as low as practical. <S> Too low means insufficient travel, too high means insufficient force. <S> As the lever is pulled away from the loose end eyebolt, it will tension the extension cable and the original cable. <S> Tie off the top of the lever to maintain tension (or use an assistant) while securing the sleeve with the tool. <A> You could use a strand grip or a Chicago grip, a device made to grip a bare wire <S> you pull the strand grip to the pole with a come-along (hoist) <S> so it's tight, then you install the hardware on the end of the strand. <A> Ah another enthralling installment of the never ending quest by rbhat to install wire cable railing. <S> Good times ! <S> Make sure the turnbuckle is unscrewed to it longest length, use a mechanical clamp , ( video of clamps ) to secure the cable in place as tight as possible and then use your swagging tool to crimp on your ferrule, remove mechanical clamp and tighten the turnbuckle until wire is taught. <S> Good luck <S> and i look forward to installment # 14
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I would use a simple ground wire clamp attached to the loose end, to add an extension of the same cable.
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Is it better to have two A/C compressors running or just one? I'm about to get the A/C installed in my new apartment, and was wondering which of the following two situations would be more efficient: (a) Cooling 2 rooms on a single A/C compressor (same system) or (b) Cooling 2 rooms on their own separate A/C compressors (different systems) *both of these rooms are likely to have the A/C on at the same time, and are likely to run through most of the same times of the day (say, 11am - 8pm) Some background: My new apartment has 3 bedrooms, a living room and a dining room that I would like to have air conditioning in. Each of these rooms will be fitted with an air-conditioning blower, and I can have up to a maximum of 2 A/C compressors on the outdoor ledge meant for that. Two of the bedrooms will be converted into our 'offices' - a computer workspace for me, and a piano room for my wife. Both of these rooms will likely need to be air-conditioned throughout the daytime, but will likely be turned off at night. In the other areas, ie. our master bedroom, living and dining areas, I think we are more likely to use the fan since we won't be there much while it's hot in the daytime. However, we'd still want to have air-conditioning available since it can get insanely hot in some parts of the year (even at night) here. Our current plan is to have two A/C compressors, one for 3 blowers, and one for 2 blowers. Should we have both 'offices' on one compressor so that in the daytime only that compressor is used? Or should we go for having them on separate compressors so that both compressors are used in the daytime, but are each at a lower load. I think our main concern is the energy consumption of either option, since electricity costs are pretty high here. I understand that from a reliability standpoint, having our offices on separate systems might be good, but I think we can deal with that, especially since air-con servicing here is pretty easily available. <Q> I would install a split system with a single compressor. <S> A mini split system is very efficient and is designed to supply cooling seperatly where needed <S> the compressor condenser units only run at the speed needed to supply the load on the units I have installed. <S> Electricity is expensive but a 2nd compressor will end up costing significanty more compared to 1 compressor with 2 evaporators (or more) because with 2 you now need 2 disconnects and the extra wiring since they will be in the same location. <S> The only time I would suggest to have 2 compressors is when the home is large and the pressure and suction lines to the evaporators get long in this case it can be cheaper to have units located on opposite sides of the home reducing the line set length. <S> But since the compressors will be located in the same location I would go with a single sized for the evaporators you need. <A> It will work the same either way - you can cool two areas either way. <S> The inside part of the installation will be about the same cost either way. <S> The outside part of the installation will probably be cheaper with one unit - just one pad or hanger to prepare, one big electrical disconnect rather than two, etc. <S> Less space used up by one big compressor than two small ones. <S> For maintenance, generally parts for one big unit will cost less than parts for two smaller units, and labor to maintain two small units will be double one large unit. <S> So I'd expect lower maintenance costs with a single larger unit. <S> (Again just speaking in generalities.) <S> You may be able to oversize the compressor a little bit <S> so you have room for expansion, so <S> the single large compressor system may be more flexible. <A> I assume that you are installing ductless mini-splits so that each room will have its own evaporator/air handler. <S> This means that each room has fully independent temperature control and the air handler can be turned on and off at will. <S> In the past, central a/c condensing units ("compressors") were more efficient operating at full load and continuously. <S> I think that this is still the case with modern units, just to a lesser extent than formerly. <S> This suggests that you should have both offices on the same condensing unit. <S> On the other hand, if you have the two offices on different condensing units, then it might be possible to have smaller max capacity condensing units because during day the evaporator/air handlers other than the offices would presumably be at a reduced cooling level, and after the office work is over, at night, only the master bedroom would be cooled. <S> Of course, it is risky to try for the minimum total max cooling capacity because you could end up with an apartment which is not quite cool enough and which is too dry because the evaporators run continuously.
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If you don't need the added reliability of two systems, I think you'll want a single compressor outside rather than two small separate compressors.
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Why is my oven bulb so hard to turn? My oven light burned out. When I try to turn the new light bulb in my Kenmore oven it's like sandpaper against sandpaper. Why is this? <Q> It is bare metal, usually aluminum. <S> Cleaning it can be tricky <S> but if you endeavor to do it, unplug the oven first or turn off the circuit breaker if the oven is hardwired and wipe it with a damp (not wet) sponge or cloth and let it dry thoroughly before plugging the oven back in. <S> Then you can spray a spritz of cooking spray on a paper towel and wipe it onto the bulb threads (not the button on the end though) before screwing it in. <S> If it were not an oven you could use a little rub of bar soap on the bulb threads, but that will impart a flavor to your food in this case. <A> Carbon can form in a hot electrical environment. <S> Use a PLASTIC vacuum nozzle to suck out the socket. <S> OR use a clean dry toothbrush to clean it out by rotating the toothbrush, and then vacuum out the socket. <S> Wear gloves for protection against shock and broken bulb glass. <A> If either the socket or bulb base is aluminum , it has probably galled. <S> No nice fix; turn off power and twist, you will likely need to replace both socket and bulb.
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The socket is probably corroded or has debris in it, using oven cleaner sprays is very hard on that socket because it is not coated with porcelain enamel like the rest of the oven.
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How can I stop a toilet seat from rapidly loosening? The seat on my toilet always works itself loose. It has plastic thumb-screw-style nuts that tighten on to bolts on the underside of the toilet. The left nut works itself loose over the course of a few days of normal use. I can tighten it again but a few days later, the seat is back to wiggling around from the loose connection. How do I get this arrangement to stay tight? <Q> Nylon is self-lubricating. <S> Even when tight it's very slippery against itself. <S> You'll need to increase friction. <S> It may seem counter-intuitive, but you could apply some PTFE (Teflon) plumbing tape to the bolt threads. <S> Even though PTFE is used as a lubricant, it'll thicken the thread diameter and create resistance to movement. <S> Wrap 3-5 layers on the threads where the nut will rest, in the direction <S> the nut tightens (clockwise from the end of the bolt). <S> They'll grab the bolt more aggressively. <S> Be sure to use soft washers against the porcelain surface to prevent damage. <S> One other thing that can help is to reduce slide movement of the seat on the bowl. <S> Install rubber washers under the seat bolts to create some grip. <A> It may feel like it is tightening, but works loose because the threads are damaged. <S> You should grab a set of replacement toilet seat bolts at the plumbing shop, they are (fairly) universal and come in a set of two. <S> You do need to tighten rather firmly, but it is easy to damage plastic threads by overtightening. <A> Buy a set of new bolts and replace the bad set. <S> The one that loosens is stripped or contaminated or manufactured poorly. <S> Make sure everything is squeaky clean before reinstalling the seat with the new bolts. <A> If nothing is damaged, get a second nut of the same thread (not necessarily a wingnut). <S> Tighten the existing nut, then while holding that, tighten the second against it until they jam together. <S> This works well with nylon nuts, but use too much force and you'll strip the thread.
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It is likely that the plastic nut (or bolt it screws to) is stripped. You could also replace the nuts with brass or aluminum.
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Grounding issues and ground tester I put an Allied Precision Industries 15N water tank heater in a week ago and found that it's shocking the horses. Used one for 10+ years with no problems so something has changed. We have an old house. It has 100 amp service. The neutral (white) wires and ground wires are on the same and only bar in the main breaker box. When I test any outlet with a plug in 3 prong tester it reads open ground. I know this isn't true because I can use a multi tester and read 120 volt when touching the neutral slot or the ground prong hole. The outside grounding rod was an old galvanized pipe and very corroded. I replaced it with a new rod and new wire. Still not sure what's going on. Are the plug-in testers really reliable or doesn't it work because my wiring system isn't wired for ground fault receptacles? Thanks. <Q> A standard three-prong outlet tester will have three lamps (usually neon bulbs): hot to ground, hot to neutral, and neutral to ground. <S> The first two should be lit, and the third should not be lit. <S> There's not a lot to them, and neon bulbs are pretty bullet-proof, so they should be reliable. <S> An "open ground" reading is when the "hot to neutral" is lit, but the "hot to ground" and "neutral to ground" aren't. <S> The only bad reading is the "hot to ground" bulb, which means that there's not enough ooomph between the hot and ground terminals to light the neon bulb. <S> It's quite possible that your multi-tester (a DVM?) is far more sensitive than the tester, and so is reading a voltage that is only a phantom, i.e. isn't supported by any current capacity. <S> In any case, a bad ground shouldn't cause shocks to your horses. <S> And, the presence or absence of ground fault receptacles wouldn't change an outlet tester's reading. <A> Those plug in testers can be total crap. <S> I have about a dozen of them and 2/3rd of them show good circuits while the other 1/3rd show problems, and not all the same problem. <S> You might be surprised to find out with a high impedance meters ( the type most meters are) <S> you can plug the meter lead in the hot terminal (the smaller one) <S> you may read a voltage very close to your supply. <S> As for the neutrals and grounds being in the same bar this correct at the main panel but every place else it is not allowed. <S> Since you just replaced the water heater and are having problems I would add a ground bond to the outlet pipe, animals are more sensitive to leakage currents than we are and this might solve the issue. <S> I would also suggest to drive a 2nd ground rod. <S> Standard rods are only 8' long in the past when I have used pipe I use a full stick that is usually 10' long. <S> Current code requires 2 if this is your only grounding system 6' or further apart. <S> Unless the single rod has a 25 ohm or less resistance (takes a special meter to measure so most just drive 2 ). <S> Also, I was initially thinking we were discussing a water heater, now with the edit I see it is a "cal rod heater". <S> Put your meter probe in the water and then to ground. <S> If you measure a voltage the heater has leakage and is faulty, take it back. <S> All my tanks are metal and sit on the ground outside and we only have a few weeks a year where we have to break ice. <S> I would encourage you to put this heater on a GFCI outlet! <S> But I believe you have a faulty heater. <S> Even with no ground the hot conductor of the cal rod is in the center protected by a metal jacket. <S> this is the reason the horses are getting shocked. <S> Not a grounding issue. <A> Here are the manufacturers 15N instructions . <S> You might want to pay special attention to the Troubleshooting part called The livestock are being shocked and also Read and follow all instructions in this sheet. <S> Note: If all else fails there is an 800 help and tech line at the bottom. <S> Good luck and keep those horses safe.
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It is basically a big resistor that gets hot so either the jacket is cracked or the connection points are not properly sealed - You might try dropping one probe from your presumed DVM into the horse tank (or just touch it to the tank if it's metal) and pushing the other probe into the (damp) ground, and seeing what voltage you come up with.
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