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What should one look for in fusible electrical protection hardware to avoid insurability issues? A common anecdote, and one that is not without substantiation , is that some home insurers refuse to insure houses with fuses in their electrical system. While this is substantiated in the typical case, where the presence of fuses for circuit protection is a sign of an electrical system that is generally obsolete and/or has a significant risk of overfusing and/or fuse bypassing, there are cases where circuit breakers are not readily applicable to the circuit protection need at hand. This is true where extensive DC systems are present, circuit protection devices of unusual ampacities are needed such as for a power meter potential tap or for overload protection of motors, or if power is stepped up to 480V onsite for a long feeder run to an outbuilding . In these cases, modern fusible hardware, such as fuse holders/blocks and fusible safety switches, that has rejection features engineered into it to prevent bypassing or gross overfusing, represents an effective and NEC-compliant alternative to circuit breakers that either don't exist (there are no UL489 breakers with a fixed 100mA overcurrent trip, and probably never will be) or are cost prohibitive to install (such as large DC or 480V straight rated breakers). This hardware is made by reputable manufacturers and widely distributed, accepts UL-listed rejection-type ferrule/cartridge or blade fuses that can be obtained through most suppliers of electrical equipment, and is fully rated and listed for service in the applications in question. How can someone who is planning an electrical installation where engineering constraints may put fuses back on the table as a circuit protection means avoid finding themselves in a situation where insurers are refusing insurance coverage over a safe and Code-legal installation? Is the aforementioned anecdote truly an overgeneralization of the situation? <Q> I think this is an over generalized thought. <S> Since you mentioned 480, many industrial equipment sets using variable frequency drives require class j fuses for protection, their are still some AC units that state max fuse size (most have changed to max fuse or hvacr breaker in the last few years) in these cases it would violate the listing to use a breaker. <S> I have updated quite a few homes in my area from fused to breakers because of insurance requirements but there are still companies that will insure homes with fuses or even FPE stablock panels, where fuses would be safer if properly sized in my opinion. <S> I think the bigger problem is on fused system k&t or cloth wrapped wire was used and some of that insulation is failing being the root cause of the problem. <A> I think the key is finding a company that is willing to work with you. <S> You need an agent to whom you can explain the situation, explain that you are sure this installation is in line with all their policy's rules, you just can't check a box that says "no fuses" on the application. <S> If the insurance company's agent is an app on your phone and an offshore call center, you probably won't be able to work out coverage with that company, and you might wind up paying more premium, but it might be worth it to be with a better company if you ever need to make a claim. <S> Show them this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dckmSgp1nw <A> I think the key to it is they want to see modern circuit protection on everything. <S> They don't want to insure cases <S> where the only circuit protection is obsolete . <S> So if you have fuses, but the fused thing is behind a competent circuit breaker, that is all they will care about. <S> For instance: the 100ma fuse protected device is behind a 20A breaker and fully encased in metal EMT, so even if it has a sparky-bangy moment, it won't be able to expend more than 4800W trying to burn through the junction box metal. <S> The 30A on 480V fuse is in the shadow of a 60A on 240V modern breaker, and is basically there for statutory reasons, as it would only activate in an edge condition where it exceeded 30A without the supply breaker exceeding 60A . <S> That would require the intersection of several highly improbable events which would share no common cause. <S> In my own house, a legacy fuse box is fed by a 120V/20A "QO" breaker. <S> Nothing on it anymore <S> but lights, so that is adequate. <S> Low voltage DC systems remain a mystery to me. <S> Firstly, an obligatory disclosure: <S> DC above about 40 volts is not to be trifled with , it has extremely, nay, phantasmagorically hostile arcing behavior because there is no zero-crossing to snuff the arc, and equipment made for AC is derated often 10:1 for DC voltages. <S> That said, it occurs to me that breakers cannot discern voltage or frequency . <S> I cannot see why a common-as-dirt mains panelboard like a QO130M200PC couldn't be used to distribute 12/24 VDC.
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If you can provide a written explanation for review by an underwriter, it's likely that they'll agree that this specific use of fuses does not violate the policy's rules prohibiting fuses and you'll get the coverage.
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GFCI Protection for Garage Lights? I know all receptacles in a garage require GFCI protection. But what about garage lights? I plan to hard-wire some new wiring to new garage lights and I'm wondering if this circuit needs to be on a GFCI breaker. <Q> Exhibit 210.10 provides a illustration of this. <A> Find out if your jurisdiction has adopted NEC 2014 yet. <S> Many haven't, because the requirements for AFCI and GFCI are really, really over the top , especially since the requirements for $40 AFCI basically to cover lazy builders who insist on using backstabs. <S> Pre-2014, garage lights whose receptacles are on the ceiling, and therefore are not readily accessible, do not require GFCI protection. <S> Most especially, lights should not share GFCI protection with common receptacles, because a tool tripping the GFCI will plunge you into the dark. <S> Now you have a dreadful situation <S> : you are blind, the saw blade is still turning with a lot of energy, and the SawStop's contact detection has lost power, so it will not stop the blade if you get your hand in it. <A> Here in Italy is mandatory for all (home and home-related) circuits to be RCD-protected. <S> That's because here we use TT distribution and short-circuit current <S> usually isn't enough to trip the magnetic breaker (short circuit protection). <S> Also because RCD let trough little lower current than MCB <S> so there's big chance of not being killed in case of touch of an active conductor compared with MCB-only protection. <S> So my suggestion is to install it anyway.
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NEC 210.8.2 requires all outlets in a garage to be GFCI protected so if your lights are connected by an outlet they need GFCI protection if they are hard wired they do not require GFCI protection.
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Large concrete patio poured against the foundation - should it be tied to the foundation or not? Over a year ago I had a large concrete patio (24' x 26') poured. This concrete patio butts up against the foundation of our home. I'm unsure if it was tied into the foundation of the house or not, but I strongly suspect it was. I wasn't around for the entire installation, only arrived home when the contractor was screeding (unsure if that's the correct term, bear with me) the slab. I'm worried that if it is tied to the foundation, it'll crack my foundation and cause water to leak into the basement. The home is 12 years old, proper drain tile setup. The foundation is wrapped with the dimpled plastic for drainage. There is no expansion joint or whatever between the foundation and patio because the contractor said the plastic wrap was good enough. The slab has several control joints. Slab has rebar and wire mesh in it. The patio has a good slope away from the house, it has no puddling in heavy rain, etc. House is built on a hill so drainage in the area overall is quite good. I live in Vancouver area, Canada. Our average winters barely ever hit freezing. With all that info, can anyone answer if the slab should be tied to the foundation or not? Thanks! <Q> From my experience they generally are not. <S> Have you tried reaching out to the contractor and ask if this is something they do in general. <S> They probably won't remember your house specifically but you could ask in general. <A> On the few jobs that I have tied a slab to a foundation there were engineering reasons for the tie. <S> Most slabs are poured next to the stem wall and do sit on the footing. <S> As long a slope away from the house to drain the water you should have no worries. <A> You do NOT want the new slab tied to your basement wall. <S> Basement walls are designed as 1) cantilever walls, or 2) “beams” supported at the top and bottom. <S> 1) Cantilever walls have rebar placed near the OUTSIDE of the wall. <S> (Tension side of wall when the wall bends.) <S> 2) Walls designed as “beams” (supported at the top and bottom) have rebar placed near the INSIDE of the wall. <S> (The tension side when the wall bends.) <S> When you tie the slab to the top of the wall, you change the tensile side from the outside to the inside of the wall. <S> This doesn’t mean that you’d have “failure”, because the rebar could be placed in the middle of the wall.
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It depends on soil conditions, height of wall, subterranean drainage, etc.
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How to diagnose crack on ceiling Today I woke up to a nice surprise, a crack and stain on my first floor ceiling. The damage is below the shower wall of the upstairs bathroom, so I'm thinking this could be water related. I'm new at this and would love to hear some advice for how to start diagnosing this problem. <Q> I'd say your hunch is correct. <S> Look at the plumbing. <S> If you'd like more help, provide more information. <A> That is clearly a split in your ceiling gypsum board. <S> This could be caused from 1) moisture, 2) temperature, 3) settlement 1) <S> Moisture is the most difficult to “track down”. <S> If it’s sudden, like you indicate, it could be from a “new” user of the shower. <S> Do you have guests? <S> This could be a one time event. <S> You said “shower”, you did not say “tub/shower”. <S> If it is a tub, it could be an unintended overflow problem...also probably a one time event. <S> 2) <S> 3) <S> Any hairline crack will cause a problem. <S> Also, if the shower wall settled, from an extra heavy snow load, it could cause a crack. <S> Obviously, you’ll want to remove the shower valve cover and see if there’s <S> a leak at the valve (be sure to turn the water on for awhile)... <S> likewise at the shower head, door to wall fasteners, etc. <S> The leak could have been building for a long time, so check for even small leaks. <S> I’d isolate the drain line by plugging it and putting 2-3” of water in the bottom for 6-7 hours. <S> If it leaks, then it’s not <S> the drainline... <S> Remember, water will run a good distance (in the direction of least resistance) <S> so you can’t just look at what is directly above the crack. <A> You’re going to have to repair the water damaged drywall anyway, so why not just cut a hole where’s it damaged to see what is causing it.
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If the shower space had been extra cold and extra hot water was turned on the floor, it could crack the floor. For showers, I’d look closely at the joint between the wall and floor AND the joints between the walls. The crack is just where there is a joint in the gypsum board which allows the moisture to drip through. I’d guess the leak is probably several feet away from the crack.
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What tool should I use for an octagonal nut on a plumbing trap? I have a PVC P-trap under a sink and the trap nut is a very low profile, flush plastic nut that appears to be octagonal. The nut is only about 1/8" thick or less and 1" across so there is very little area for a wrench to grip onto. To make it even worse, the corners of the nut are not sharp, but are rounded off. Is there some kind of special tool that is used for this kind of nut? <Q> It's much quicker and more reliable than an adjustable wrench due to the clamping force you're able to apply and the gripping teeth. <A> I would opt for the channel locks for any kind of gland nut grasping as well, but if the ring nut is low profile and sunk, well first I'd just free up any other joints along the drain by loosening them or removing them where I could, as the P trap often comes apart in two pieces, and then I'd just try and GRASP the upper stem with one hand and the lower stem of the P trap with my other hand, and PULL the socket apart along the joint's longitudinal axis, and give that a go, adding a little twisting motion, you may be able to loosen the threads by twisting the joint a little bit, twisting back and forth, like wringing out a washcloth, and you can bend the pieces a little bit as you pull them apart and they may be springy or they may give a little, because you may just have a trap that slips apart like that, and it may be a decorative nut, or it may conceal an inner ring that seals it up. <S> In the event you have a threaded nut with worn surfaces, hammer blows concentrated by a center punch or similar chisel <S> implement to the exposed head or faces of the nut, directed in a tangental fashion such as to impart loosening torque by hammering it tangentially <S> , can sometimes loosen some of these class of low profile bolt heads, when channel locks, crescent wrenches, or a socket can not. <S> You may find that you should attempt turning it left-hand as well as right-hand <S> hey you never know. <A> While a channel-lock plier like the others said is definitely the tool for the job, in some cases like possibly yours, since the edges are rounded off, you might not be able to get a grip on it. <S> In this case, I would reach for my handy vise-grip pliers, my favorite tool. <S> You can grip just about anything with vise-grips. <S> After you remove the nut with your vise-grips, I recommend replacing the nut for later convenience. <S> It probably costs a few cents at your local hardware store.
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A channel-lock plier is the best tool for about any PVC nut.
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Not enough room for door trim Hi I'm redoing my bathtub surround (because I did it incorrectly the first time). Basically there is only 3" between the tub and the door frame. How much should I extend the tile past the tub? How thin should my door frame be? If I install the door frame this close to the tub should I use special wood proof material (all the trim I currently have is MDF but I've heard that's bad to use in wet areas). <Q> I think I'd run the tile all the way out over the door frame. <S> You definitely don't want to do mdf trim there. <S> Go with natural wood, or one of the synthetic materials. <A> I have seen the tile and trim done a few different ways. <S> There are two ways I prefer, but only one of the two ways would work in your situation. <S> That is to stop the tile on top of the tub and not bring it down the side of the tub. <S> This would give you the full 3" for the trim. <S> If your trim will be the standard 2 1/4" that is used a lot these days, this arrangement will give room so the trim and tile do not compete for the space. <S> Also I have cut tile to meet the trim, but never cut or ripped trim to meet tile. <S> It would make it look incomplete in my opinion if that was done, depending on the style of trim which has not been mentioned. <S> The painting of the backside of the trim as mentioned by Kelly, is a good way to combat the water that may get on the trim. <S> It is a lot less than you may think, unless somebody simply does not use a shower curtain properly. <S> But never-the-less I would paint the front, back, sides and especially the bottom where it meets the floor with an oil based paint, water based allows moisture to pass through. <S> You could prime 2 coats with oil based and finish it with the latex (water based) of your choice. <S> I would not sweat the difference in thickness <S> the paint builds up to, there are other factors the make the joints not line up as expected as it is. <S> It is all part of installing trim. <A> As for the door frame, you can buy a moisture resistant trim, which is not expensive, and paint it with moisture resistant paint. <S> I would recommend you paint the trim on both front and back and with a couple of coats. <A> I would use vinyl trim such as https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-White-Vinyl-Prefinished-Trim-Kit-2-Piece-0201/202033621 <S> Regarding that 3" area, what Jack suggested would give you the best look in my opinion.
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The tile is really up to you and what looks best to you.
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Can I add a second thermostat in my basement for more control? I would like to install a second thermostat on the lower floor of my home. My thinking is that when we have guest staying on the lower floor I could turn the upper floor thermostat off and the lower on and the heater would respond to the temperature on the lower level. Would this arrangement work? <Q> Remember, warm air RISES, so if your return air resister is not in the basement, it will be a long time before there is enough air exchange to make a difference down there. <S> What I would do (have done) is to add a baseboard heater as a supplemental system, with its own thermostat in the basement, along with a way to keep the basement air from rising out of the basement (i.e. stairwell door). <A> This would work if wired in parallel. <S> When either stat calls for heat it would activate the furnace. <S> The only problem I could see if you used smart thermostats that combined may draw more than the control transformer can supply but if simple non powered thermostats I don't see any problems. <A> I assume you have forced air heating & cooling. <S> If not this is very simple with baseboard 220v heat. <S> Add a heater or more on a different 220v circuit, connected to a thermostat. <S> Forced Air, isn't hard, but probably expensive. <S> You will have to isolate the runs to that particular area. <S> Add a flow switching device, that also activates the end device, with its own Thermostat. <S> Hot water... <S> if you have PEX and open ports on your manifold. <S> Adding a new controller and zone is cake. <S> If it is an iron pipe... <S> just NO. <S> IMHO
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The other issue will be that if the temperature sensor is in the basement, the upper part of the house may get too warm by the time the furnace displaces all of the cold ait in the basement.
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Old Work Box for Vanity Light? So I went to go change my bathroom vanity light today and discovered that it simply had the wiring coming through a hole in the wall and the previous vanity was literally just screwed into the wall with 2 screws. Went to the local home improvement store and the employees guided me to some old work boxes that look like this: So I get it installed, but it had me wondering...is this safe? I mean the vanity light isn't THAT heavy (I weighed it at around 3 lbs). I do not have a stud nearby (that I can see anyways) (nor would it matter because I would need to have access behind it anyways), and I really don't want to be tearing out an entire wall ideally) Is this ok? I looked at various guides on changing or adding vanity lights and most seem to use these boxes (Which "seem" to be rated for 6 lb's, and only mention NOT to use them for ceilings). <Q> Yes, an old work box is completely safe for what you're using it for. <S> Just make sure the dogs are snug against the drywall. <A> When you have a heavy fixture, you need one that will support the weight (by being secured to studs or joists), but your vanity light is.... <S> well, light. <A> They usually do and makes it unsightly for the homeowner. <S> I made that mistake as an apprentice once and made a huge mess for the drywall guy/boss man/everyone else to fix. <S> More higher-end expensive fixtures have a wire gutter built-in and the splice takes place inside the fixture. <S> Never splice inside a wall cavity. <S> Then just place a plastic button connector in the back. <S> Unless its a piece of lead or iron, then weight shouldn't be a problem.
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Drywall anchors should be fine or find a stud to screw it too if its a long fixture. I've used lots of old-work boxes of various designs and love them. Make sure the box doesn't show around the fixture. You need to splice in an UL approved box.
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What is this type of screw head? Head is similar to a round, slotted head, except where the arrows point is like it was cut out. It is on an old double cylinder deadbolt. Wondering if I’m going to have to drill it out. <Q> Hard to tell from the picture, but based on the description, that sounds like a one-way screw. <S> See this page for some more information. <S> Basically, the design is to make it easy to install with a regular screwdriver, but hard to remove, which is what you want on a lock . <A> These type of security screws are designed to be difficult to remove. <S> While a screw extractor will work it may be easier for someone with limited experience to drill the heads of the screws off using bits of increasing size. <S> Use a center-punch to dimple the screw-head so the drill will stay centered. <S> Start with a small bit (1/8"inch), gradually increase in size until you are using a bit the same size as the head (5/16"). <S> The heads are tapered so do not drill too deep or you will remove the countersink in the lock. <S> Drill just deep enough to go through the exposed head. <S> Then remove the lock. <S> I would grab the screws with vise grips and twist the screws out of the door. <A> I run into this situation all the time. <S> It's usually pretty easy to overcome. <S> I just use a hardened straight pin, like a centre punch or in a pinch you can use a long drywall screw. <S> Just find a nice flat spot near the outside of the screw head, give it a few light taps with a hammer to make a dimple and then angle the pin so that the force is directed in a counter clockwise direction. <S> Usually it takes only a little effort to get the screw to loosen. <S> Sometimes you can fet the job done just by using a flat head screwdriver and lots of pressure. <S> Good luck.
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To remove it, you may need to use a screw extractor - basically you drill a hole into the screw, grab it with an extractor, and then unscrew the combined extractor + screw.
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very fine solenoid wires won't burn from AC source? I've seen tiny solenoid electromagnet (that is the solenoid used to open contacts inside a GFCI receptacle) with very fine wire used in the winding.. won't it burn if exposed directly to 120v ac power at each end? How is the winding computed? <Q> Wire thickness doesn't relate to voltage. <S> It relates to current . <S> So a coil of that nature would either need to be externally current-limited (resistor in series), or internally limited due to its own practical impedance, being a coil and all. <S> In that impedance, frequency would be a factor. <S> And coil wires don't need enamel strong enough to block the entire voltage, only the worst-case voltage between adjacent windings. <S> If each winding layer has a separator with higher dielectric strength, that may be all that is needed. <A> The current to operate the solenoid is tiny, so the current draw is small, and <S> I believe it just operates a trigger that disconnects power, so the loading is very brief. <S> So the insulation and the wire gauge can be much lighter than what's usually see for 120V devices. <A> The 'tiny' wire will have a high resistance per length, yes, and it will likely melt with a constant 120 Vrms applied to it. <S> But the solenoid only engages for half a cycle (17 ms for 60 Hz, 20 ms for 50 Hz) before the contacts open, so the heating is minimal and designed for. <S> For more info, see US patent US8760824B2 and related <S> GFCI controller datasheet (FAN4149) . <S> Especially interesting may be the Function Description in the latter document. <S> Further questions about the design process, however, belong in the EE StackExchange .
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Insulation thickness relates to voltage .
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Do I need a mixing valve in my boiler/water heater system? My hot water seems to run out sooner in the winter than in the warmer months. This has been the case for the 5 years I’ve lived here. Last year seemed worse and this year though seems like even more so. We’ve had no changes to our living situation. I had a plumber come and he checked the efficiency on the water heater, said it’s all good but that the installation was done improperly. That it needs a mixing valve and a pump, we turn the temp up and the tank will last longer and recover faster. He wrote up the estimate with “boiler not piped with priority and no mixing valve. Bandaid repair install mixing valve on tank and set outlet temp to 120 degrees and raise tank temp.” Does this sound legit or is he just working an extra $900 out of me for plumbing work only to turn around and tell me I need a new water heater afterward? Thanks. <Q> Looks like you have a hydronic boiler that is heating your house through multiple zones as well as heating your domestic water via a heat exchanger within the tank to the right. <S> If so, this would be referred to as an indirect fired hot water heater . <S> During the warmer months, the boiler only needs to heat the domestic water as the zone control valves for the heating zones would be closed. <S> This allows for 100% of the boiler’s output to be used to heat the water. <S> Now in the colder months, the boiler must satisfy all zones, including the domestic water tank. <S> Therefore the output of the boiler is being shared to each of the zones as they call for heat and the zone feeding the water heater will no longer be getting 100% out the output of the boiler. <S> There could be many potential reasons that your’s is not keeping up with <S> he demand such as: <S> The boiler is undersized and cannot satisfy all the zones during peak demand Improper balancing of the zones Something piped incorrectly and causing a reduction in efficiency A schematic diagram of your setup would be helpful in reviewing for potential issues. <S> However, being that this seems to have always been the case, it might be that your boiler is undersized. <S> Regarding the addition of the a mixing valve and pump: where were they suggesting them being installed? <S> If you have turned up the tanks temperature too high, there is potential for scalding to occur at the plumbing fixtures. <S> However it is often more efficient to run the water heater at a higher temperature and in these cases a mixing valve is installed on the outlet of the domestic hot leaving the tank to bring the temperature of the water as it leaves back to below scalding. <S> The only place I see that a pump might help would be on the heating zone that heats the domestic water tank. <S> Similar to this setup: <S> However, a better understanding of your setup would be required to determine if feasible. <A> A mixing valve can be installed and the temperature raised in order to get the hot water to last longer. <S> As for the recovery rate it will vary depending on how much water you use and how hot it has to be reheated to. <S> I don't know why the plumber wants to install a pump however. <A> It isn't required. <S> I can't quite make out the piping configuration, but if you are getting hot water already, it should be fine. <S> I don't know what the plumber did, but I would check the dip tube to make sure it isn't cracked. <S> I would also look into adding a heat trap loop to the hot and cold (not required). <S> That looks like a Triangle Tube indirect water heater and that's in the installation instructions. :)
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A mixing valve will allow you to run your water heater at a higher temperature and mix cold water in to get to the desired temperature at the tap.
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How can I remove thick dust on the top of a wardrobe? I am talking about dust that have been accumulated for years. The options that I've considered are: a vacuum cleaner. However it's container is too small and it's very hard to use it on a ladder. Using wet towels. It looks like a lot of work that will release dust to the air. Applications using static electricity. I've no experience with this. What would you suggest as the best practice? <Q> Cover entire top of wardrobe with king sized bed sheet. <S> Lay it down gently across the top, right on the dust. <S> Don't stir it up. <S> Scoot edges in along the top of wardrobe, pushing dust in front of them. <S> Dust pushed into the air will remain trapped under the sheet. <S> When you have pushed edges in to center, dust will be inside sheet. <S> Bring sheet back in and use it to wipe off residual dust. <S> Take back outside to shake. <S> Bring sheet back in and use furniture polish and sheet to clean wardrobe top. <S> would it be too much to ask that you post a picture of the dust? <S> Prurient interest, perhaps, <S> but I want to see dust that thick. <A> a vacuum cleaner with a wand <S> wet rag, after you use a floor scooper or straight piece of cardboard to first shovel up as much as possible <S> (wet rag after you vacuum - and shovel up before vacuuming, to save on the filter - if you're ok with getting a poof of dust in your face). <S> No vacuum? <S> : shovel and wet rag. <S> static electricity: take a balloon and rub it on your head, then... <A> Give this a idea a whack, Big box stores sell plasticpaint scrapers. <S> Tape a garbage bag to an opposing side of the wardrobe so that its opening (mouth) is readily accessible and dirt will fall into it. <S> Scrape towards the bag from the outer edges working in. <S> Similar to shoveling a driveway. <S> Vacuum the remainder with a brush attachment. <S> Dust regularly. <A> Go with the garbage bag taped to one side of the wardrobe then scrape the dust into the bag and then wipe clean with a wet rag. <S> After that help it from collecting by using a swiffer want with folding arm extension and keep it dusted off.
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Gather edges in the middle of the wardrobe and take sheet (now bag) outside to shake dust out. Plastic used thoughtfully will not destroy a finished surface if you have one.
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How can I square up slots cut with a circular saw? I used a drop-saw to create these slots: Due to the circular blade, it's obviously left a bit of the wood in place, more easily seen here: My question is how can I clean up these slots? I've considered filing, of course, and I'd be happy to buy a file that fits if that's the best option. But there's a lot of wood there and I think filing would take a long time. I also thought of chiseling. Again, I don't have a chisel that fits, but am happy to purchase. However, I can't see how it would actually work. Sure, I could chisel the sides of the slot, but then how would I actually knock the bit of wood out? I'd need a tiny chisel to fit the slot - 5mm or less. Are there other options? <Q> Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts. <A> It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws. <S> I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. <S> It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well. <S> Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. <S> Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found. <S> Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. <S> Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout. <A> If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. <S> This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot. <S> Saw with set in teeth: <S> (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm ) <S> ** Saw with no set in teeth: <S> ** <S> (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html ) <A> If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. <S> Make the cut from both sides to your line. <S> There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.
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A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts.
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Does using an existing attic exhaust pipe to also serve air flow from a range hood cause smells/micro particles of oil/soot/etc to get into attic? Our kitchen renovation contractor decided to change plans on us and vent the range hood out via the same pipe as was pre-existing to passively control the temperature in our attic, instead of vent out the side of the house as this person originally suggested (See further below). It has got me thinking that perhaps with an opening in the side of this pipe in the attic to allow hot air in the top of the attic to make it's way out the top of the roof, that some/all of whatever is going to be sucked up by the range hood could make it's way into the attic instead of going to the vent on the top of the roof. Is there some scientific principle that would prevent that, or has the contractor taken a shortcut with ramifications (vermin being attracted into the attic as a result of meaty smelling oils is one thought)? <Q> Yes, this will cause a problem. <S> You say, “with an opening in the side of this pipe...” <S> (Good practice calls for the pipe joints to be lapped in the direction of the exhaust and sealed... <S> no openings.) <S> Having a “gravity” vent in your attic does not allow for backdraft flaps... <S> so it can’t be fixed. <S> These are two separate venting procedures. <S> One is power vented and one is gravity. <S> They cannot be combined. <S> The power exhaust vent will blow smells into your attic. <S> I’d check with your Building Department and they’ll tell you that the new kitchen exhaust vent must be vented to the exterior...without “openings in the side of the pipe”. <A> Some of the odor will swirl back into the attic, but I can't see how it would be a serious problem. <S> I (for better or worse) vented a bathroom just like that for many years in a previous home. <S> Assuming that you have soffit venting, natural convection will pull most of the exhaust air out. <S> Of greater concern than odor is moisture. <S> You don't want to rot out your roof. <S> I doubt you'd see enough to cause problems from a kitchen vent, however. <S> There's a chance you'll see some grease residue over time, also. <A> I didn't read everything, but I don't have to. <S> That pipe needs to be terminated properly through the roof. <S> If not it will condensate and you will get water dripping in your attic.
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If there isn’t a solid pipe (without openings) in your new exhaust pipe, it will partially vent kitchen air into your attic. Aside from a little lint fuzz, no harm done. If you are in a cold climate it needs to be insulated as well.
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How do you keep bugs/dust out of electrical conduit which terminates in the open? Though it isn't specifically stated in the code, I try to protect cable that is installed less than 8 feet from the ground with conduit. This tends to be accepted by inspectors as "protection from physical damage." If I am going straight up from the electrical panel, into garage rafters, I would like to use a conduit sleeve up to the 8ft mark and then continue on with bare cable. This means the conduit would create a path for critters/dust to enter the panel... is there something I can put over the end of the sleeve? Thank you! <Q> Electrical insulation putty (duct seal) is ideal for this. <S> Most bugs aren't going to have the perseverance to chew through it. <A> Get two fittings of the kind that screw into knockouts or threaded junction boxes: one for your size conduit into that same size of knockout. <S> a common strain relief as you would use when that type of cable enters a junction box, of the same knockout size. <S> Then add a Rigid conduit coupler of that same size. <S> Use the first one to give your conduit a threaded end, then the coupler, then thread in a strain relief. <S> Remember, no more than four cables per conduit, and no more than three if any 30A circuits are involved. <A> Use a EMT-to-NM (or GRC-to-NM) combination coupling <S> They make fittings specifically for transitioning from conduit to a cable, such as an Arlingtion 8600 or equivalent. <S> One of these can be used to keep detritus out of the end of the EMT and strain-relief the cable where it exits the EMT sleeve.
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You could also run through a junction box and use a strain relief clamp to close things off where the cable exits.
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Why would a light fixture be incompatible with dimmer switches? I'm considering buying the Aero Pure AP80-RVL, which is a recessed bathroom light/exhaust fan combo. It's important to me to be able to use a dimmer switch for the light, but the installation instructions for this unit specifically say not to use one. Use an on/off switch to operate this fan. See “Connect Wiring” for details. The humidity control and fan can be operated separately. Can be used with a dual “stacked” switch for fan / light control. Do not use a dimmer switch to operate the humidity control or light. I checked the "Connect Wiring" section for further detail, as mentioned in the quote above, but there is no further information about dimmer switches. Doing a text search on the rest of the installation manual yields no further references to dimmer switches either. I understand why you can't install a dimmer switch for the fan/humidity control, but for light fixtures I always assumed it was just the bulb and whether or not the dimmer switch was compatible with the bulb (in the case of an LED bulb) that determined if you could install a dimmer switch. This leads me to the following two questions: Why would a light fixture itself not be compatible with a dimmer switch or why would a manufacturer say not to use a dimmer? Would I run any risks such as damaging the unit, causing a fire, etc. if I went against the installation instructions and put a dimmer on the light anyway? <Q> The reason why is non-dimmable CFLs cannot and should not ever be used with dimmer switches. <S> and To put it in layman's terms, most modern dimmer switches essentially function the same way as if you were to turn a light on and off really, really fast (about 100 times per second). <S> (snip) <S> basically the problem is this: CFLs have less resistance than incandescent bulbs, which means that the floodgates are opened when they are exposed to the electrical fluctuations that a dimmer sends, and they actually can consume up to 5x the current as when they're not connected to a dimmer (and that's when the dimmer is set to max). <S> This overheats the bulb and can actually cause it to light on fire. <S> Bad news. <S> The fixture has a GU24 base (non-standard) which is going to further limit your selection of bulbs (as in your local store may only carry non-dimmable bulbs). <S> So rather than accept liability for a potential fire hazard, they're just going to tell you not to use a dimmer at all for the light. <S> In theory you should be able to hook a CFL/LED friendly dimmer to the light only and install a dimmable GU24 bulb, but beware that any liability for doing so lies solely with you. <A> My guess is that it's a boilerplate CYA statement due to the variety of bulb options listed. <S> A user could inadvertently attempt to dim a CFL or other non-dimmable bulb and exceed the heat specs of the unit. <S> Assuming that the light circuitry is completely isolated from the fan, etc., <S> and you use dimmable bulbs, I'd probably go ahead with your plan. <A> Product testing, listing, and instructions <S> The first six paragraphs of NEC include 110.2: Equipment must be approved, and 110.3 it must be installed according to its labeling and instructions. <S> What's up with that? <S> The approver is generally Underwriters Laboratories or other nationally recognized testing lab. <S> The manufacturer submits the product, labeling and instructions. <S> The lab tests it according to the labeling and instructions . <S> If you go, as we graciously say, "off-label" -- you are in the wild west. <S> That means It may not work. <S> The company won't be responsible for that usage, i.e. void the warranty. <S> In this case, I could not find any prohibition on dimmers in the item's marketing and instructions, which seem to describe a fixture made for incandescents, and taking an Edison socket LED only as an afterthought. <S> Note that the fixture I describe cannot comply with modern building codes, unless it is used with a motion sensor . <S> So I suspect you are dealing with a mod of that fixture which is either socketed for LED only, or has a built-in hardwired LED. <S> In those cases, the prohibition on dimmers is reasonable. <S> Dimmers are not magic. <S> They are not resistor or variac based. <S> They do fairly bizarre wave-shaping to make the dimmer as cheap as possible to build with 1970s silicon tech, exploiting a unique behavior of incandescents. <S> Now they are building CFL and LED bulbs which have a microcontroller which analyzes that 70‘s waveform and decodes it into a dimming command for the CFL or LED. <S> So now we are stuck with that dimming method for good. <S> If only we had found another system, like the 0-10V signal used by commercial dimming.
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The best explanation I can think of is that many compact fluorescent(CFL) and LED bulbs are not compatible with dimmers. If trouble follows and a safety inspector connects it with the misapplication, homeowner/fire insurance may refuse coverage and leave you to finance the consequences yourself. Nobody knows what will happen if you use the device that way.
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Paint color with same codes do not match I ran out of paint after the first coat. I had the paint custom made to match a specific color. I still had the numbers/code so I thought it would be easy to match. The sample the store put on top of the can sure looked like it would match, however after the paint dried it wasn't close to the sample on the can. I was expecting a burgundy, but instead it dried a pinkish color. I double/triple checked that the numbers on the new can does indeed match the colors on the old can. The sample they put on top of the can does look correct, so I do not think that the store mixed the paint incorrectly. The paint is Sherwin Williams Satin, Deep Base from Lowes. What can I do differently to help make the paint match better when I repaint next time? Unfortunately I did not take a picture when it was completely dry. However it did not change much in color. This is the color I was expecting: This is the color I ended up with: <Q> The codes are nice, and they're usually pretty close. <S> But, especially at the retail level, it's not an exact science. <S> There can be variations even between buckets in the same purchase. <S> Based on advice from family who have worked as a painting contractors for decades... <S> When you buy paint, make sure to get enough for the entire job in one go. <S> Make sure it's all the same base. <S> I tend to go to dedicated paint stores rather then Lowes or Home Depot for significant jobs. <S> That's where the pros go for a reason. <S> They have better equipment & training and - in my experience - do a better job. <S> Mix <S> well, scraping off the bottom - particularly if it's set awhile since the store shook it. <S> Get one of those drill operated paddles. <S> Have a few extra empty 5 gallon buckets (depending on size of the job) <S> Start the job by using those extra buckets to mix all of your buckets of paint together and stirring thoroughly. <S> This ensures that you'll have a consistent color for the entire job. <S> I've definitely noticed differences in tint when pouring buckets together in this step. <S> Back to your situation. <S> I think your only solution is to get another batch of paint and re-paint both pieces. <A> First, the human eye can distinguish millions of colors when they're laid right next to each other . <S> However, in terms of seeing colors separately and trying to remember their matches, we are positively hopeless. <S> Further, even small changes in light cause significant changes in perceived color even if you had a color sampling device , so cameras are as blind as we are. <S> The Smithsonian recently restored a Jim Crow era passenger coach. <S> Naturally, their color research was pristine . <S> However, having nailed the right color, they then altered the color to correct for the flaws in the fluorescent or whatever lighting in their display hall. <S> Except the lighting industry was innovating like crazy, and three years later, you could buy true-daylight lights at Lowes. <S> But now, that would make the color wrong , eh? <S> So they are stuck using their 1970s tier lighting. <S> I am not Smithsonian tier, but I usually nail it. <S> But even with my book of 1700 color chips, careful matching with photos and Photoshop analysis, I've ordered a $300 gallon of paint and had it not match the exemplar. <S> This was burgundy, and my mentor had the same problem with another burgundy. <S> All this to say, this is a hard problem. <S> It ain't you . <S> That said, you did err by expecting two cans to come out the same. <S> The problem is, there is "rounding error" on the tint shots. <S> Computer controlled tinters are an attempt to solve it, but even that is not perfect. <S> This problem is much worse on smaller cans because rounding error matters a lot more when the shot is 1/4 or 1/16 the size... <S> so you greatly amplified the issue with 1/2 pint sampler cans. <S> At that point sampler cans stop making sense. <S> At least you are working in "latex" (emulsion) paint, which is basically nontoxic and not hard to dispose of. <S> Lucky you! <A> I took the cans back to the store and asked for advice. <S> Turns out, the two different colors (gold & brown) used two different base colors (stain & deep base vs. satin <S> ultra deep base). <S> I didn't realize it when I purchased the original cans of paint, because I just asked them to match specific colors. <S> When I purchased the 2nd set of cans, I only looked at one of the colors. <S> I have to admit I feel pretty foolish. <S> Thanks for all of your help. <S> Here's the result: <A> Take the two empty cans back to the store and ask them for a refund or replacement. <S> Most big box stores offer satisfaction guarantees and will replace mismatched paint; the policy is designed for situations like what you're describing. <S> Then, follow the excellent advice in the other answers: <S> Buy the whole quantity you'll need right up front, versus buying two cans in separate transactions. <S> Check the stamps on the two cans of paint prior to them <S> being mixed to make sure they came from the same batch (not often an issue, but if the two cans came in different batches, they base sometimes won't exactly match, so it won't matter if the added coloring matches) Mix from both cans as you paint, so you're evening out any differences
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Yes, you must buy all your paint and "average the error" by mixing all the cans together.
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What is the safest and quietest practical lightweight electric saw to cut 2x4 to use inside an apartment? I have a miter saw but that thing is loud. Same with the circular saw. Moreover, while the miter saw can be used on the ground with not even a table, the circular saw is too dangerous without a full workbench. A table saw, even mini one, is too big, expensive, and also too loud. It needs to be handheld. Obviously, chainsaw is not the answer either. Of course, the quietest is a simple hand saw. Unfortunately, it's also too much work and takes too long. I want something electric. This brought me to the reciprocating saw. It could be used easily with a couple portable sawhorses or even just clamped to the table. Handheld jigsaw might be the same. For safety, of course awareness, alertness, glasses, earmuffs, gloves, and common sense will all be used. Still, some tools are less safe than others without a full workshop. I'm also thinking of building a small portable workbench. I don't want to disturb the neighbors or cause any alerts with the apartment complex. So, what is the best, quietest, safest, and easiest electric saw to use to cut 2x4 without a full workshop or full work bench? <Q> jigsaw. <S> but really i think you underestimate how easy it is to cut through dimensional lumber with a sharp handsaw. <A> I don't know if this is a legitimate answer, but I'd reconsider a hand saw. <S> I'd try a pull saw, very easy to use and makes a nice clean cut, almost anyone can get good results with this type of saw. <S> They don't bind and they are very easy to get started. <S> The way the blade is made, there is not much set to the teeth, so it takes less energy to cut. <S> Lubricate the surface of the metal by spraying it with some WD40 or whatever, as long as you're not concerned about a little oil on the end grain. <S> Some people try to use a hand saw just like they use a circular saw and get poor results. <S> The sawhorse setup usually used with a circular saw is not ideal with a hand saw. <S> Sawhorses or a pickup truck tailgate are higher than you'd want for use with a hand saw. <S> A traditional saw bench is about knee high, that's a good height so you can get your knee on the board. <S> If the word "ergonomic" had been invented back when saw benches were commonly used, they would have been called ergonomic. <S> You'll want to look for or set up something approximately that height. <S> No clamps needed, your body weight on your knee is the clamp. <S> Usually you can improvise and find something that's a good height, for example the bench seat of a picnic table is usually just right. <A> A reciprocating saw or jig saw isn't going to give you a very good quality cut. <S> How much cutting do you expect to do? <S> Maybe plan on doing it in the middle of the day when noise is less objectionable. <S> Or talk to the neighbors and see what times are reasonable for them ... <S> in case somebody works nights or such. <S> You might also look into a local makerspace or other shared workspace. <S> More space, better tools, mentors, etc. <S> I've done woodworking in an apartment ... <S> it's not great. <A> You might want to consider a scroll saw. <S> Mine is a good bit quieter than my jigsaw and the base provides decent stability for good cuts. <A> Buy the right blade for your circular saw first. <S> Technology has come a long way, always keep it sharp!! <S> A soft start takes the bang out of start up... <S> huge difference. <S> An electric brake helps heaps. <S> You don't get that wind down end noise which is useless noise time really. <S> Buy a blade stiffener.. <S> well worth the money.
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Depending on what works well for you, and what you need to do with the saw.
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Can I combine 1/2" and 3/8" plywood for a total of 7/8" subfloor for laying a hardwood floor? We have some old flooring that comes to a total (flooring and planks) of 1 5/8" from the top of the joists. I want to add a new section of flooring ( this one ) beside it, and am trying to get them to be as close as possible in height. The planks in the section I am replacing are too far gone to be used, I have to replace them. So my question is, for this particular floor (or flooring like it) can I combine 1/2" and 3/8" plywood for a total of 7/8" sublfoor? This was I can lay the 3/4" flooring on top and hit the 1 5/8" thickness I am looking for. Our floor joists are 24" on center, if that helps. Thanks! <Q> I don’t think you can glue them together successfully. <S> What about “extreme fiber in bending” and long term creep. <S> Plywood manufacturers use heat and pressure. <S> The neutral axis will remain with the 1-2” plywood. <S> Id use 3/4” plywood (which is rated for 24” spans) and add 1/8” plywood or moisture barrier to achieve the 7/8” height. <A> But I suspect your floor might be prone to squeaking due to having 2 layers of plywood rubbing each other. <S> Gluing them together will prevent the squeaking. <S> But gluing large pieces isn't that practical <S> thus a less reliable option would be putting lots of screws to keep the 2 together. <S> That being said, don't you want to put an underlayment between the plywood and the new flooring? <S> That serves as a cushion, moisture barrier, and help w/ the sound isolation. <S> Take that in account. <S> It is usually 2-3mm thick. <S> Would 3/4" plywood plus the pad be close enough to your existing floor? <A> Yes you can however if you want the equivalent structural capacity you need to glue them together essentially the same as the layers are done in the factory. <S> The underlayment is a great idea too.
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Just use lots of glue and lots of screws to hold them together so the glue can cure with good contact. Structurally, there is nothing wrong with your plan.
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How can I extend an electric wire without a large cross-section connector? I want to extend a couple of electric wires coming out of a ceiling to get to a hole at the top of a lighting fixture. Let's assume for the sake of discussion the lighting fixture is fixed and will not be moved, rotated etc. I'm used to this kind of wire connectors: (obviously I'll need just two 1-to-1 units in this case.) and I could use those - except that I don't have enough cross-section for them. The wires will be located between the top surface of the lighting fixture and the ceiling, and will not have more than a few millimeters of spare height. Here's how it looks (black blob is the hole): How do I connect the wires in a stable fashion, hopefully without too much fuss? Are there special thin-profile connectors I could get? PS - I live in Palestine/Israel in case that matters w.r.t. tools/equipment available to me. <Q> Use a crimp joint with heatshrink Join the wires with a crimp . <S> This is a permanent means of connecting wires that, done properly, will never come loose. <S> It involves crushing another piece of metal into the wire with a special tool. <S> It is, however, critical that you use the correct size crimp for your cable, and the correct tool. <S> Test the crimp by trying to pull it apart - they should hold at least 5-10kg force. <S> This is a special type of tubing that can be slid over the cable then heated, causing it to shrink radially and seal onto the wires/cables. <S> Apply heat using a hot air gun or blow torch <S> - avoid applying too much heat . <S> The shrinking effect prevents the sleeve from moving, and reduces any gaps. <S> Glue lined heat shrink is available if the joint needs to be watertight. <S> Image courtesy Smial of Wikipedia under CC BY-SA 2.0 DE. <A> Wow, I am with @threephaseeel. <S> Pretty sure Israel is 230vt for household current which would likely make mandatory that electrical connections are enclosed in an approved electrical box. <S> Please look into at least finding a shallow electrical box you could mount on the surface of the ceiling, to contain the wire connection. <S> You could then mount the light fixture to that. <S> Yes, it would hang down a bit and maybe would not be as pleasing to look at, but better than a fire which burns down your home (which also would be less than pleasing aesthetically). <A> My fallback solution will be, for each wire: Getting some extension wire Stripping the ends of the extension wire <S> Braiding the stripped end of the existing and the extension wires together <S> Soldering <S> the braid (Difficult, since I would have to work near the ceiling). <S> Applying a good few rounds of electrical tape: <S> (Sorry about the lack of images for the other steps...) <S> But I dislike this solution because it's very involved <S> and I'm not sure about the strength of this arrangement against pulling (which I don't plan on of course). <S> A different solution which improves on this would be much appreciated.
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Ideally you would use one sleeve over each individual crimp/conductor, then another larger diameter layer over the sheath of the whole cable (assuming you are joining sheathed cable). Insulate with heat shrink tubing .
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What to do with baseboard for this basement with concrete box? This is in my basement and I plan to install wood flooring.But this is what in the bottom of the wall: It is like a box 2x2. Previously I had baseboard on top of the concrete box running along the wall. BUT it was ugly. Does anyone have a better idea what to do or cover this? Maybe I can just paint it as same as the wall and run some 1x2 on top??! UPDATE 1 The wall looks like this: ||||-- |-------------------- <Q> Some tile would look good. <S> You can attach the tile easily with some Power Grab or other construction adhesive. <A> If you are going to put down a wood floor would it make sense to finish the basement walls that would enhance the whole basement. <S> The walls could be insulated then finished any way you desire. <S> This would yield a larger sq. <S> ft. home that you could use as a finished game room or whatever . <A> My first answer was aimed directly at your desire to simply do something with the curbs. <S> However, you also stated that you planned on installing a wood floor. <S> Here is a side view drawing of how you can achieve both issues at once. <S> First, attach a side board on the top of the curbing (Make sure it's level all the way across) <S> Nail it to the concrete wall with cut nails or Tapcon screws. <S> Nail/screw the joists to the side plates on each end. <S> I would do one joist on each end of the room and then run a string across the top of it to keep the others level. <S> You can adjust the height on each end of the other joists by chiseling out a little more wood from your notches or adding shims. <S> Install 3/4 T&G plywood with liquid nails and screws and <S> then whatever flooring you desire. <S> And for doorway issues this would be a good option...
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Cut out joists that will sit snugly against the curbing and allow a small space between the bottom of the joist and the existing floor (in case of a basement leak). Once the tile dries you can grout it and then seal it.
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What is this strange coiled wire and should everything be redone? Problem 1 So I'm going through my house, replacing the switches and came across this switch that controls a fan in my bathroom. It looks like this may have been something the previous owner did, and did incorrectly. If you notice, there is this strange coiled wire looped around the terminals. The wire itself appears to be stripped in the middle for the terminal connections and continues with the tip exposed. This looks bad and I think should be fixed. Problem 2 In the bathroom, the light switch controls power to this switch, so the light switch must be on to use the fan. I assume that the wires from the light switch, go to the light, then to the fan. From the fan, I believe the hot splits off and goes to this switch and back. There is no ground in the box for this switch. The problem itself is not that big of a deal for me, just an annoyance. Questions Besides having the ends exposed, is using this coiled wire a hazard? Should there be a ground wire with the switch? Should it be replaced with standard 14 gauge wire? Any other concerns that may stand out based on what I described? Probably the best thing I can do is to replace it and make the fan independent of the light. This just puts a lot of work on my end as I only want to update the switch, for now. I have other plans to get an electrician to add circuits to my house at some point, just not anytime soon. Edits I'm a little afraid to pull it out as I believe the wires will not stay in place/can bare any weight without dangling. Here is a different angle of the switch, you can see the majority of the box. <Q> As a result, there is no ground in this box at the moment, nor is their a neutral, which is now a requirement to provide at switch locations to accommodate smart switches and such. <S> As a result, the entire cable that connects this switch to the fixture it controls needs to be replaced with a 14/3 NM cable -- black goes to always-hot in the vent-fan box, red goes to the vent fan hot, white goes in with the neutral bundle that the fan connects to, and bare goes to the ground bundle. <S> In the switch box, bare goes to the green ground screw on the switch, black goes to one switch terminal, red goes to the other switch terminal, and white simply gets capped off with a wirenut as it's not used for a "dumb" mechanical switch that simply sits in the circuit hot and breaks it. <S> This is also a sign of further trouble lurking This sort of sloppy work in one place means one thing: that there's probably more trouble lurking where you cannot see. <S> If you have a friendly electrician at hand, you may wish to call them in and go on a Code-violation scavenger hunt through your house with them, even. <A> It looks like someone has used lamp cord here. <S> It should be pulled out, and redone with Romex, or whatever is legal where you live. <A> I'm a little afraid to pull it out as I believe the wires will not stay in place <S> /can bare any weight without dangling. <S> The good news here is that, whomever did this, used an "old work" box to add this switch. <S> See the screw in the top right and bottom left of the box face? <S> If you unscrew those, the box will come loose and you can pull it back out of the hole (the screws attach to tabs that flip up and grab the backside of the drywall). <S> This will make re-running the wires MUCH easier, since it's likely they just fished the wires up from whatever the wires attach to (the wires come into the bottom of the box, not the top)
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Do not be surprised if you see more flagrant Code violations during further work. This should definitely be redone with a standard 14/3 NM-B cable Whoever installed this lightswitch used the first thing they could get their hands on, apparently SPT-2 parallel cordage of some sort, instead of NM cable.
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What tool can I use to block light from a 50W bulb? I bought a lamp & the incandescent bulb is not fully covered by the shade. Since the shade is at eye level that hurts my eyes. What can I use safely to block the light? Any tape safe to use? Or does anything exist for such an issue? I'm using 2 50W olden type incandescent bulbs with the lamp. Lamp I got: https://www.wayfair.ca/lighting/pdp/brayden-studio-davey-61-led-tree-floor-lamp-bstu5008.html?piid%5B0%5D=26194658&piid%5B1%5D=26194659 <Q> Photographers use Cinefoil to block light. <S> They attach these foils to the barn doors of lights with pegs. <S> You could try to clamp such foil to the shade, but make sure the peg itself is heat resistance. <S> Bulbs can get extremly hot after some time. <S> The heat of the bulb should have enough space to exit. <S> Examples of Cinefoil: <S> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00915LB6M/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <S> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44690-REG/Rosco_RS100113_Matte_Black_Cinefoil.html https://static1.squarespace.com/static/50aa7079e4b040d142112688/t/576c2863893fc0c13dd81ad0/1466706022795/ <S> (Cinefoil attached to barn door) <S> Downside: They are quiet pricey. <S> Therefore a new shade might be cheaper. <A> You may try to use a "half silvered" bulb in those fixtures. <S> These specialty bulbs are relatively common and are made for cases such as a light fixture hanging over a table where you don't want bright, direct light shining straight into people's eyes. <S> I've seen these sold at most hardware stores, but you may have to ask someone to help find them. <S> The silvered side is totally opaque and is designed to reflect the light towards the shade where it can be diffused. <S> Image from HomeDepot.com <A> Use an LED bulb that is physically shorter <S> LED bulbs come in many shapes and sizes. <S> Look around for one that has the shape and light emission pattern you want. <S> For instance PAR style spotlight that is fairly squat may fill the bill.
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Don't fully cover/wrap the bulb/shade with foil.
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What is the black stain on my exterior brick, and how can I remove it? The brick wall above my apartment is blackened, what is it and is it possible to clean it? <Q> The brick wall above my apartment is blackened, what is it? <S> It is caused by water leaking from that drainpipe. <S> It is some form of mould that thrive in damp conditions. <S> And is it possible to clean it? <S> Yes, a stiff-bristled brush and hard effort will make a big difference. <S> You can probably experiment with various chemicals, such as diluted bleach, to kill the mould. <S> If you do not repair the drainpipe, the problem will return in some months time, perhaps after winter or seasonal rain. <S> You can buy sealants that are intended for use on brick which prevent water penetration and which might help prevent this. <S> They will alter the appearance of the brick though. <S> This only works if the water is coming from the outside, not if the pipe with the leak is internal to the brickwork. <A> It’s localized. <S> That is to say, it’s only at the corner of the balcony and only extends down to the lower floor. <S> Moisture is causing the problem, but it’s not clear where the moisture is entering the wall. <S> It could be coming from: 1) bad mortar joints, 2) drainpipe, 3) cracked brick cap at balcony wall, 4) crack around pipe <S> If you look closely at the mortar joints, you’ll see cracks and gaps in the mortar. <S> I doubt this is the cause of the leak, because the entire balcony wall (and pillar below) has the same bad mortar. <S> However, it’s odd that it stops at the upper floor line, unless there is a concrete slab that extends out to the edge of the balcony, thus stopping the leak from extending down the wall (column). <S> it seems more likely that the construction at the corner is different than the rest of the balcony wall. <S> Perhaps the corner was constructed differently and now is cracking and allowing moisture to enter. <S> I’d check the top balcony wall cap and see if cracks are occurring along that portion of the wall cap. <S> I doubt if it’s JUST leaking around the pipe. <S> Otherwise it wouldn’t be so uniform throughout the corner. <S> The column and adjacent walls look like they could be “solid” brick construction and the area where the mold (discoloration) could be a veneer brick wall. <S> If it’s veneer, water could easily get behind the moisture and be drawn out by high temperature (especially where you live) causing the black mold. <S> I agree with another response, you must find where the moisture is entering and fix it or it will return in a short time (one rainy season). <S> Adding water to clean the mold could cause additional water penetration into the wall. <S> Fix and seal the wall before cleaning. <A> I would wear a mask and buy a cheap power washer.
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If the pipe is a drain line it could be leaking in the wall.
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Can I use WD40 to remove rust from my electric hob plate? I used WD40 to remove some rust from my bicycle u-lock recently (locking mechanism). It worked very well (I put some bike lube on it afterwards). Now, I have plenty of rust on my electric hob plate. My hob looks similar to this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81CQ1Jot2CL. SL1500 .jpg I tried to use vinegar first, but the effect was minimal. So I was wondering if I could use the same oil for my hob? I have the following concerns: Hygiene: Is it bad to use it next to food appliances? Heat: Will oil leftover start to burn after switching on the hob? <Q> I would keep the WD40 as far away from food and food preparation equipment as possible. <S> The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for WD-40 as published by the manufacturer states: <S> Emergency Overview: DANGER! <S> Harmful or fatal if swallowed. <S> May cause eye irritation. <S> Avoid eye contact. <S> Use with adequate ventilation. <A> WD40 is a good product <S> but it's nothing special for removing rust. <S> There are similar lubricants sold that are labelled "food safe" for use in commercial kitchens. <S> A lot of food safe lubricants you'll find are <S> silicone-based, I'd avoid those for this purpose. <S> Plain mineral oil is sold in pharmacies, and it's one of the main ingredients in WD40 and many other lubricants. <S> In addition to the medicinal uses, it's used on cutting boards and that kind of thing, it would certainly be safe. <S> It should work fine to loosen rust. <S> For that matter, any vegetable oil will soften the rust the same way, although it might not be as good as mineral oil. <S> Canola oil was used as an industrial oil before it was used as a food oil. <S> If there's oil - whether it's WD40 or mineral oil or vegetable oil - on a heating element, it will burn off when the temperature exceeds the flash point of that oil. <S> You'll want to remove as much as possible simply by washing with soap, dish soap should be fine, then drying immediately. <A> I use barbeque cleaner and it works wonders especially if you let it soak for few hours. <S> After you clean off the barbeque cleaner, wash the hobs of with soapy water. <S> Just make sure you rinse it out very well before you turn the hobs on again.
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(You're going to wind up washing off whatever you use, and I doubt traces of WD40 would be dangerous at all, but why even take a chance.)
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How to wire multiple 240V, 20A electrical baseboard heaters I have two baseboard heaters to install on a 240V, 20A circuit. One heater is 1500w and the other is 2000w. From my panel, I leave the 20A breaker with 12/2 wire to reach the first baseboard. Obviously I will be waiting for my electrician to come and do this but I am curious as to how both heaters will be plugged. Will these be plugged in series? If so, how does he do this? P.S: Located in Quebec, Canada <Q> The cables are in sequence. <S> The cable will have ground and two hot wires, we'll call them black and red. <S> The "red" wire may be the white wire taped red, or even taped black. <S> Doesn't matter which. <S> Red and black come from the panel, stop at heater 1, and continue to heater 2. <S> At heater 2, they terminate with red and black on opposite poles of the heater. <S> At heater 1, red and black are each tapped. <S> Don't forget a branch for your thermostat. <S> That must come off the first heater in the chain. <S> It should be 12/3 cable <S> so you have a chance of upgrading to a smart thermostat later. <S> (the third wire isn't neutral, it's always-power for the 'stat). <S> I'm not sure of <S> that's required by Code for 240V heaters, or for Canada, but do it anyway <S> - you'll thank me later :) <S> Right at the heater is obviously much warmer than the rest of the room. <S> Even a remote thermostat can be thrown off by the heating that occurs inside its wire connections. <A> You would not normally wire two heaters that are rated for 240VAC operation in series on a 240VAC power source. <S> Instead they would be connected in parallel along a daisy chain of wiring like shown here. <S> Note that the below does not depict the safety ground wire connections. <A> Loads are generally connected in parallel across the 240 Volt mains. <S> The 1500 Watt heater draws 1500/240 = <S> 6.25 Amps and the 2000 Watt heater draws 2000/240 = <S> 8.33 Amps. <S> Together these loads draw 6.25 + 8.33 = 14.58 Amps, which can safely be serviced by a 20 Amp breaker and 12/2 wiring, provided nothing else is connected to this branch circuit. <S> Each heater must also be grounded.
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These red and black taps go on opposite poles of the heater. The wires are in parallel. You don't want thermostats at the heater, because you want the heat switched based on the room's temperature, not the heater's. The cure there is go with a 24V/relay/low voltage system, as a bonus that lets you use modern 'stats like the Nest.
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How does water flow through my water heater and up to the top floor without a pump? My house has a gas based water heater(geyser) on the outside. The plumber has connected it such that without the use of electric pump, just through pressure alone, hot water reaches the 1st and 2nd floor. How does this work? <Q> Typically about 60 psi. <S> Imagine a bucket with a lid and <S> in the lid you have two holes cut. <S> In one hole, you place a garden hose that fits snugly. <S> You turn the water on and the bucket begins to fill. <S> When the water reaches the top of the bucket, it will start to come out of the second hole. <S> Your water heater works the same way. <S> The tank has two holes. <S> One for water in and one for water out. <S> The water coming into the tank will push water out of the outlet and up through your house because of the pressure. <A> The same pressure (provided by your local utility)that pushes the water out of the first floor faucet. <S> It all requires pressure. <S> The water heater provides very little resistance to the flow of the water. <A> Assuming your municipal water pressure is 60 psi <S> , that's enough to lift water about 140 feet, so getting the water a mere 15 feet or so above the water heater only reduces the water pressure by about 6.4 psi.
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The water coming to your home is under pressure.
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Can I remove the sheathing from cable just where it passes through conduit? I am adding an outlet in my unfinished basement from a cable that will run from the ceiling down a corner of the room. I was going to just attach the cable to the studs but I would like to protect the wire due to the location. I've read that I should not run the cable through conduit, but was wondering if there's a way I can use the same cable, but take the sheathing off when it's just inside the conduit (and use some type of clamp). That way I don't have to use a junction box where the wire meets the conduit and I still am not having the heat issue of cable through conduit. I was planning on using PVC conduit and outlet rated for outdoors since it's in the basement where it gets cold in the winter. Thank you! <Q> Romex is just a brand name. <S> I assume you are referring to NMC 14-2 wire non metallic <S> coating(house wiring). <S> It can be run down the stud no problem about the cold. <S> Conduit is not required just be sure that the wire is fastened to the stud within 12 inches of the box and no more than four and a half feet apart. <A> Technically you should install an NM connector on the end of the raceway to keep the exposed conductor from showing in the event it gets pulled on. <S> At a minimum install a male adapter and plastic bushing. <A> It is ok to run the cable inside the conduit but this can be difficult. <S> Since the area is unfinished, conduit is the best way to go here. <S> Code requires conduit or 1/2" sheetrock or plywood to protect the wires below 8'. <S> So it would not be legal to staple to a stud unless you were going to cover it. <S> The outer sheath protects the wire (NM wire or Romex). <S> Removing the sheath may sound ok, but the insulation on the individual conductors may not hold up to even a short pull. <S> If you examine THHN (the type of wire to be pulled as individual wires), there is an outer pull jacket that protects the insulation from being damaged when pulling. <S> Without the protection of the sheath, it could be a disaster and the sheath also has the required listing of the wire size and type so it needs to stay on. <S> NMB is rated for 90c, so you really won't have any heat issues with the wire in conduit. <A> Running cable inside conduit is not prohibited , it's just annoyingly and needlessly hard , and takes an awful lot of statutory space in the conduit, so we disrecommend it . <S> Heat is not a factor, unless you have 4 or more circuits in the conduit. <S> What is prohibited is running wire through conduit that is unidentified <S> so it is impossible to determine whether it is a wire type legal or safe for use. <S> In typical Romex/NM cable, the interior wires have no markings, which forbids their use in conduit.
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No, you cannot remove the outer covering, the wires would not be properly protected inside the conduit. Yes you can strip the jacket after the cable goes into the raceway.
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Likelihood of asbestos under newer ceiling texture? Edit: Adding some up-front clarification because people seem to be fixating on the "asbestos" part of this question. This is what I am asking for: help determining what prior work may have been done in my house based on the context I have and some visual clues. If that's not appropriate for diy.stackexchange, that's fine! But the provided answers and comments have not made it clear if the problem is with the asbestos part of the question or the fact that I'm asking for opinions about previous work. What I am not asking for: determination of asbestos content based on photos or discussion of the varying degrees of danger that asbestos exposure represents. OP follows: We moved into our house about 2 years ago, and at the time it had 2 bedrooms with asbestos popcorn ceiling texture (that we've since had removed). The rest of the house has either a (poorly-done) knockdown or orange peel texture that was done sometime before we bought it. I'm trying to figure out how the previous owners dealt with the popcorn ceiling that was very likely throughout the house (besides the 2 bedrooms we know about). If they did it right, they would've scraped it, repaired the drywall and re-applied texture, then painted. There's one area where the ceiling meets the stone fireplace, that makes me wonder if they could've instead just covered it rather than removed it. This photo is from the top left of the fireplace. There's a little bit of texture that looks like popcorn texture to me, to the right in the photo. To the left, where the ceiling meets the wall, it looks like there's some drywall tape? This is basically the same shot, but from a little further away for context. What's the likelihood they covered or contained the old asbestos popcorn texture, rather than properly scraped? The knock-down is pretty thick and not very well done. Seems possible that they sprayed on a bunch to contain the old texture, but I don't really know how common that is. To clarify in response to some of the comments - the popcorn ceiling we had removed was tested independently and contained asbestos. I'm trying to determine the likelihood that the previous owners removed vs covered the popcorn ceiling in the rest of the house. <Q> There is lots of "popcorn texture" (Artex in the UK) which doesn't have asbestos and some that does. <A> Welcome to DIY! <S> If you're looking for someone to guess what someone may or may not have done in a house that contains popcorn ceilings which may or may not have asbestos because not all popcorn does, you won't get answer <S> you're looking for because people don't like to play the guessing game with asbestos. <S> The answer will be pure speculation. <S> Some people will fix it properly and others will just cover it. <S> My answer is to get it tested because it's the only answer that will give you peace of mind. <S> You don't want to be 20 years down the road and say "some person on the internet said not to worry about it and now X has happened". <S> There should be multiple places around you that can do the testing and not just the previous contractor you used. <S> There are even kits you can buy at the big box store that you can mail in. <A> The reason is because the texture has very little body (even less than popcorn). <S> If you have ever painted popcorn texture the stuff comes off with the lightest pressure <S> so on many jobs we got it damp and just scraped it off. <S> For me personally I would poke the ridges if they are solid like dry mud I would not be concerned. <S> If they are spongy like a spray paint over the top of a sponge then it is encapsulated and is safe. <S> If you want to work on the ceiling the little bumps at the edge would be the closest thing I see that may be residue that was not totally removed, have those bumps tested prior to working on the ceiling.
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The only way to tell if a ceiling contains asbestos is to take a sample and have it tested. In my experience it is very rare to overcoat popcorn ceiling texture. I am not saying an overcoat could not be done but think there would be much more of a mess than I see. Look closely at the texture it looks more like a sponge or rolled mud application.
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Is 3/4" OSB a better soundproofing material than 5/8" drywall? Assuming the construction was done properly, would 3/4" OSB (oriented strand board, it's like a particle board but better) a better soundproofing material than 5/8" drywall? This OSB has an R-factor of 0.90, which is really good. 1/2" drywall of course is abysmal at 0.45, but actually 5/8 drywall isn't much better with an R-factor of 0.5625. Compare this to common brick. Brick has an R-factor of 0.80, so the OSB has even a brick wall beat. 1" plywood actually has an R-factor of 1.25, just a side note. Soundproofing has several elements: mass (weight, density) airtight absorption (e.g. foam [good] vs thin steel [bad]) damping (e.g. green glue) resonance (e.g. foam [good] vs metal [bad]) Mass is non-negotiable. If you put two sheets of 1/16" plastic together with green glue and make it airtight, it still isn't going to do much. And because plastic has little absorption, the sound may well pass right through. So that's an example of a poor design. OSB seems to kill it with mass. Not only is it nearly the same price as drywall, but it has nearly double the R-factor of 5/8 drywall. In fact, it's similar to having two sheets of 5/8 drywall (without green glue). That's not the only benefit of OSB. If I wanted to put it on a hinge or screw something in, OSB is a lot greater material since it can hold a screw, and not crumble under its own weight. It's possible with drywall but you also need to build a full frame for it which not only increases the cost and resonance (both bad) but is a ton more work. The downside of OSB is finishing it, but for some applications it doesn't matter. The best way is to seal it with resin, or sand and paint before install. If you don't need to finish it, there isn't much downside to OSB as far as I can see. Also, cutting to shape is easier and less messy. There is some sawdust but drywall has drywall dust which is way more messy for install. The only thing I don't know about is resonance of OSB. However, being strands of wood held together with glue, I'm guessing it should be at least comparable to drywall if not better - but this is just a guess so don't take my word for it. You could even put two layers of OSB with green glue, and anectodal evidence says it is about the same benefit - except that the 3/4 OSB will have double the mass of the 5/8 drywall, so possibly far greater sound reduction. So, can 3/4 OSB be a better bet for soundproofing than 5/8 drywall, for the same installation? <Q> 3/4” OSB board is better than 5/8” gypsum board. <S> Sound control is measured in STC ratings (sound transmission coefficient). <S> Here’s a website that tests various materials: <S> https://www.ecopacificinsulators.com/uploads/4/7/1/6/4716609/sound_transmission_stc_rating.pdf Gypsum board is not as good as OSB board. <S> 1/2” OSB board equals 5/8” gypsum board. <S> As you can see, 3/4” OSB board is not listed, but OSB board increases by +1 for each 1/8” thickness. <S> Therefore, you could surmise that 3/4” OSB board would be +6, and 5/8” gypsum board is +4 and fire <S> rated gypsum board is only +5. <A> For the best noise insulation, try layering materials with different acoustical properties. <S> For example, you could sandwich some foam board between two layers of OSB. <S> As the sound reaches each of the material transitions (air to OSB, OSB to foam, foam to OSB, and OSB to air), a great deal of it will be reflected back . <S> Additionally, the foam will absorb some of the sound. <S> This is the strategy used by some commercial products that consist of foam-filled rigid panels. <A> According to this website , As for soundproofing- <S> it (OSB) very similar mass to drywall and hence, will give similar results. <A> I don't have science to back this up, but there's more to it than mass. <S> Internal structure is also a large factor. <S> Because gypsum is soft, it may have more ability to resonate internally and diffuse sound energy, whereas plywood or OSB may have more tendency to propagate the sound through drumming. <S> I'd take the drywall over the wood.
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So, I would expect the thicker OSB to insulate sound better.
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okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools? I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay? I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips? <Q> The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. <S> The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. <S> However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord. <S> (Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.) <S> You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). <S> The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. <S> A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. <S> So I'd feel completely confident with <S> a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible. <S> If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. <S> If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood. <A> Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. <S> One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections. <S> I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. <S> You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). <S> As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load. <A> You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with : V drop = <S> ( K x P x L x A )/ <S> ( M ) <S> Where: K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase ) L = <S> Wire length ( one way not there and back ) <S> A <S> = current in amperes <S> M = wire area in circular mills <S> Values for K are: 11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 <S> F 12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 <S> F 18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F 19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F 20 for both aluminum 122-167 F <S> The wire circular mils can be easily looked up. <S> You want the V drop to be 2% or less. <S> Calculate that with ( V drop ) <S> / ( V input ) Answers to you 3 questions... <S> Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord? <S> 10 guage = <S> ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) <S> / 10400 = <S> 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%) 12 guage = <S> 9(11 <S> x 2 <S> x 100 <S> x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 <S> = 0.042113 (4.21%) <S> So I'd say <S> No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.) <S> is heat + powerloss the big problem? <S> Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life. <S> Voltmeter measurements. <S> Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. <S> You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return. <S> Overall <S> I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
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The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw.
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Matching wood stain to paintable plastic I have stained cedar siding on house. Recently installed new HVAC system with paintable plastic covers on the exterior of house. How do I match the stain on wood to paint on covers? <Q> I/ <S> E: <S> A piece of window trim, a loose knot hole, or use a painters 5-way tool to chisel out a very small piece from the bottom of a corner board or other inconspicuous place. <S> Also, you might try calling a local paint distributor like Sherwin-Williams. <S> Tell them you are considering some paint upgrades <S> and you would like them to come out and match up the color with a fan-deck so you can weigh your options. <S> If they think there will be a big future paint sale at stake, they will send out one of their road reps to speak with you and match the color. <S> Remember to use a primer on that plastic before you paint it. <A> I am afraid that would be impossible to match. <S> Stain is absorbed into the wood and not uniform across the entire surface. <S> It is very dependent on the grain of the wood and the red hue in the wood shows up. <S> You could get an approximate match but the two will always look visibly different. <A> I agree with Quoc Vu, the match will never be perfect. <S> Acceptable? <S> Perhaps, but that is quite subjective. <S> An alternative approach might be to pick a complimentary color and make it an accent/feature. <S> For example, matching the color of soffit/fascia/gutters instead of the siding.
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The best way to match it is to remove a small piece of the siding and take it to any paint store that offers computerized color match.
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Are standard UK wall sockets a 16A power supply Hi I have bought a IPL hair remover from a British company and in the manual that the unit is configured for a 16A power supply. So it should be plugged into a 16A wall socket or a 20A kitchen appliance socket. Are these the sockets that we use as standard in the uk.It’s telling me that it can be reset to 10A sockets if necessary but I don’t know what amp the uk standard power socks are.Asking in fear of blowing the machine up by just plugging it into the wall. Thanks <Q> BS1363 is 13A max <S> The UK BS1363 plug system is 13A, maximum, per receptacle. <S> Since your appliance does not support that setting, only 10A and 16A, the 10A setting is correct; furthermore, they were smart enough to fuse the plug properly (at 10A) -- this means that if you tried to set it to 16A, you'd eventually blow the fuse in the plug. <A> No. <S> UK standard (type G) plugs are rated for a max of 13Amps. <S> In the UK, appliances that draw a higher current will be either hardwired into a circuit via a FCU(in a home setting) or use a suitable industrial type plug (for commercial/industrial applications). <S> Edit: where are you? <S> Do you have issues with voltage/frequency? <S> Feel free to post a link to the device. <A> My suggestion is to replace the fuse in the plug with a 13A max one (not a crappy seld-o-work but a known brand), if your appliance will draw more than 13A, the fuse in the plug will blow and <S> you know you should hardwire your appliance or just put an IEC 309 <S> [BS EN 60309-2] socket where you use it, if 16A is just an 'over-labeling' for appliance designed to work in Europe <S> (most domestic sockets here are rated 16A) <S> you could keep use your gadget safely with <S> it's 13A plug <A> You probably want to check the devices power rating to calculate the actual current. <S> The 10/16A numbers are indeed typical for outlets in continental Europe, but that does not mean your device happens to consume exactly 10 or 16 A. <S> That is why I suggest using the (more accurate) power in Watt.
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A 13 Ampere UK socket will deliver 13A*230V = 2990 Watt; if your device needs less than 2990 W it won't blow your fuse.
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Joining two wires into a single breaker I need to combine two wires with very light room lighting loads into one breaker in the panel to free up one breaker for another use. How best to combine the two wires and insert only one into the breaker (since the two can't fit)? <Q> You can simply pigtail them in the panel - splice those two wires to a short third wire (pigtail) of the same gauge and type, and land the other end of the short wire on the breaker. <S> Wire nuts are most commonly used for splices, but they do take some skill to use successfully. <S> In either case, you must be very careful to select connectors compatible with your wiring. <S> In particular, be very careful if there's any aluminum wiring involved. <S> There is a persistent myth that the NEC prohibits splices in panels, but there's really no such rule. <A> You can also check the manufacturer of the circuit breaker to see if it is listed to have two wires per lug. <S> Not all of them are, but there are a few very common brands that allow it. <S> Square D QO series breakers for example are UL listed for two wires per terminal. <S> (I am assuming from the wording of your other posts that you are in North America somewhere so that the Square D brand name is relevant). <A> Also can you wire <S> nuts three awg 10 together? <S> Wont they get so thick? <S> – <S> Jtl Are you unaware that wire nuts come in different sizes? <S> There is a size for three #10 copper wires, e.g., Scotchlok <S> (tm) G (the grey ones). <S> EDIT <S> The listed sizes and numbers of wires to fit in a given wire nut does not take into account the thickening from "pre-twisting", i.e., the listed sizes and number of wires for a given wire nut presumes that the wire ends are just held parallel and the wire nut is twisted on until it is on hard tight.
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Push in wire connectors are also commonly available, and are much easier to get right on your first attempt.
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How can I allow guests to manually control lamps under wifi control? I have a few lamps in the house that are now wifi control enabled. I use google home to control them. So far, I have been using wifi plugs - but the issue is that some guests who are not comfortable with google home are unable to control the lamps. So, I want to install a physical override in parallel. Most of the examples I am seeing are for wall mountings. For a floor lamp, this is my plan: - Use the Sonoff wifi switch - House it in a plastic unit where at the top, I can install a push button or on/off switch My question: - Anyone who has done this and can give me some inputs. - Any downsides to what I am proposing or a better way or better products to achieve this? - Is there a readymade product that is a closed module that has wifi and a physical switch together? Thanks <Q> Google Home is nice, but you can't control primary room light exclusively with it. <S> The building codes absolutely require that some lighting in each room be controlled by plain wall switches in standard locations . <S> The locations of the mandatory switches are defined by Code. <S> The brightness level is defined by Code, though in some living spaces it is allowed to switch a receptacle and the citizen is on his own recognizance to plug in a workable light. <S> You can have as many other lights as you please, control them any way you please, and you need never use the statutory light switch. <S> Lack of legal lighting could endanger your occupancy permit and thus, your mortgage. <S> What's more, if an accident is caused by someone being unable to turn on the light, the insurer will cite the defect as reason to refuse coverage. <S> Your mortgage lender will have a problem with that too. <S> On top of this, that Sonoff junk is a direct import from China and uses this loophole to bypass all our safety regulations, that's why it's cheaper. <S> As such, it is not approved by a Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NEC 110.2 on the very first page) <S> so there goes your fire insurance. <S> And again if the inspector catches this in your home, he'll make you tear it all out. <S> Rules are eased somewhat for smart devices which are not made part of the house wiring and are merely plugged in. <A> Another clean solution for this, which I have deployed in my own house, is to use the smart switch technology from Lutron. <S> They have the Caseta series one of which is a smart plug module that goes into an outlet and then can have a lamp plugged into it. <S> The unit has on/off and dimmer control buttons right on it. <S> Then they have their PICO remote control that can be easily paired with the smart plug. <S> The PICOs can then be mounted on a nice little pedestal that lets it be used as a table top control. <S> Example in picture. <S> (Picture Source: https://www.lbclighting.com/lut-l-ped1.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o3&scid=scplp108705&sc_intid=108705&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4aXiBRCRARIsAMBZGz_XSuciYQjHeFOT7FndULQwXC3L-28f2uFSDJs0TgS7x_HIjzL5lIMaAgqREALw_wcB ) <S> (Picture Source: https://www.energyavenue.com/Lutron/PD-3PCL-WH?keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4aXiBRCRARIsAMBZGz9cGZLgR_rIms4bjsJZroP3Hre6RvT6kX3PW81w2UIn4luC85-RAE0aAlJfEALw_wcB ) <A> The best way to handle this would be to use a smart switch solution that allows you to use remote switches AND smart home control. <S> There are lots of these. <S> If you want to do it within the limitations of the sonoff, you could use inexpensive wireless switch kits at the receptacle feeding the lights you fitted with the sonoff: These kits come with a receiver that goes at the receptacle and a battery operated switch that mounts like a regular wall switch. <S> You'd probably want to program the sonoff to turn on upon power up.
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As long as there is a light switch in the proper location, and it operates some light in the normal way, the Code requirement is satisfied.
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How do I safely extend electrical wiring without replacing it entirely? I'm in the process of replacing a light fixture with a ceiling fan. I replaced the old mount with a pan ceiling support box. The wiring is old (1920s) and inside armored cable coming through the stud. I brought the cable into the box using a duplex clamp and am left with wiring that is too short. What is the best and safest way to extend this wiring without having to go into the attic replace it completely? I assume I will need to purchase new wire, splice and attach with a wire nut. But which wiring do I buy? And does it matter which wire nut I use? <Q> You are sunk Wire that short can't be spliced or extended. <S> The wire must be able to come out beyond the surface of the box at least 3". <S> You will need to reroute these cables to a different junction box somewhere <S> the wiring is able reach with the needed spare length inside the box. <S> From there, you can run a /2 w/ground cable to this location, e.g. NM or MC. <S> The junction box where this happens must have its cover remain accessible without needing tools to disassemble any part of the building. <S> The attic is fine. <A> I'd use a push-in splice like this one . <S> It should attach to your existing wires and let you attach another piece to bring up up to a better length. <S> As for size, you can't go wrong with 12 gauge. <S> It will work with 20 amp and smaller. <A>
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I'd suggest buying a small junction box and installing it so the incoming cable has enough length, splice on new wire, then run the new wire the rest if the way to the current box.
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Can I use hollow wall anchors in a lath and plaster wall? I have a stable enough lath and plaster wall, which I would like to put a box framed picture on. Usually with a box frame picture on to a plaster board or dry wall, or even a brick or stone wall, I'd drill two holes, put a baton in, and that would be the hanging point of the picture. I have a proper (hasn't been touched in 100 years) lath and plaster wall. Thin wooden strips running horizontally, which then has plaster squished over it. If I put a wall anchor (such as this one ) will this crack the plaster around the hole as it pushes the wings out? I could find the vertical stud, but there will only be one (if that) in the middle of the short wall I've got, so will only give me one mounting point. <Q> There are two factors: Your level of care, and dumb luck. <S> If the plaster hasn't proven to be particularly crumbly in your home, I'd go ahead and use that type of anchor, or this one: <S> Some tips: <S> Drill carefully. <S> Don't push too hard and use a high spin rate. <S> You might switch to a fresh bit when you encounter wood. <S> You don't want to blow the lath out the back. <S> The goal is to have a clean bore in undisturbed material. <S> Install gently. <S> Use a screwdriver or set your drill's clutch to a low value. <S> While it takes some force to deploy the anchor, overtightening guarantees failure. <S> Stop when there's just enough tension to do the job. <A> Lath likes to bend away from your drill as you try to go through it. <S> I've had best luck with brad point drill bits, they're aggressive, and <S> butterfly anchors <S> I've 3 shelves put on plaster over lath with 4 butterfly anchors each, holding 60 Lbs or more with no problems after 20 years. <S> The plaster/lath is 100 yr old, so about same as you. <S> They really slathered the stuff on. <A> There are much better anchors than that outmoded one. <S> I would not use that type in any wall, much less a lath and plaster wall. <S> For a lath and plaster wall consider installing picture molding high on the wall and hanging the picture with a hook and wire(s) from the molding. <S> A 100-year-old lath and plaster wall is not something to put a hole in at eye level without considering alternatives. <S> There is the traditional picture molding and there are modern alternatives. <S> See Google search on picture molding for lath and plaster walls . <A> I wouldn't touch the wall.... <S> Hang from wires mounted at ceiling/wall junction. <S> I've seen this before in really old buildings and museum/historical places.
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The hollow wall anchors you are looking at tend to do bad things to plaster.
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Mice entering condo through a large hole in drywall behind gas range I have an enormous hole in the drywall where the gas pipe comes in to my stove. Should I use steel wool sheets to cover the hole? <Q> I know this may sound silly <S> but it actually works. <S> I would follow that with some 45 minute dry time sheetrock mud (you might have to use some foam filler first if the hole is really big). <S> The peppermint oil will keep the rodents away in the short term. <S> Rodents that are familiar with that entry may return to find the steel wool, which they will ingest and eventually die. <A> It may be time to learn about hardware cloth. <S> It's a flexible metal mesh, sort of like window screen but much larger and heavier. <S> It's good at what steel wool is not: covering gaps. <S> However if you don't like non-consensual ventilation, you may want to use a solid material like plywood or drywall. <S> They can chew through much of that. <S> But a sandwich of this and also hardware cloth will stop 'em cold. <A> Better than steel wool is copper wool. <S> The mice don’t like the taste.
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Then do as you stated and stuff some steel wool into the hole. The sheetrock mud will be a (hopefully) final deterrant for any other rodents to enter at this location. Take some cotton balls and saturate them with peppermint oil and stuff them in that hole.
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Replacing grounded outlets with grounded metal junction box Replacing several 3 prong outlets in my 1968 home. Tried searching to find an answer but most questions seem geared towards replacing 2 prong outlets with 3 prong and don't apply here. My wiring appears to be romex with a bare copper ground wire. After removing the outlet covers and pulling the outlets (all 3 prong) out of their junction boxes, I've found that each has the hot and neutral wires connected to the outlet and the ground wire connected to the junction box. Each outlet has a black screw in the bottom corner which I assume makes contact with the metal box and provides a ground path? What is the correct way to replace these outlets? I assume I need to get some bare copper or green insulated wire and connect it to the outlet ground screw on one end and connect it to the metal Jbox via installing another screw above the "GR" label on the junction box in my photo? Edit:Attempting to summarize info in multiple answers. It seems my options for properly wiring the new receptacles require me to update the grounding of the box shown in the left photo, where the ground conductors are currently tied around the cable clamp screw in the middle. Google searches tell me that used to be an approved bonding method but is no longer allowed. To properly ground the jbox and receptacle I can:A) Terminate a pigtail on the box ground screw hole (will require a 10-32 green ground screw), terminate a pigtail on the receptacle ground screw and tie the 2 pigtails and 2 ground conductors together with a wire nut. B) Terminate a longer pigtail on the box ground screw hole (will require a 10-32 green ground screw), connect it to the 2 ground conductors in the box with a Greenie wire nut and terminate the other end of the pigtail (which extends through the small hole of the Greenie) on the receptacle ground screw. In either case do I also need to match my pigtail wire gauge to my 2 ground conductors coming into the box? <Q> The ground screws do not make contact with the box. <S> They're intended to secure a pigtail from the ground wire bundle (or a passthrough loop). <S> On modern outlets they'll be green. <S> Some outlets are self-grounding. <S> They have small tabs or wire springs behind the screw mount ears that make a positive connection. <S> You can either replace your outlets with self-grounding ones, or simply attach the grounding conductor with the screws. <S> The ground wires should still connect to the box if it's metal. <S> That does appear to be a grounding screw hole in your photo. <S> Be sure to use the proper screw (often 10-32 with self-cutting threads) to be legal. <A> You see on the old receptacle, where there is a little cardboard donut and a bunch of wallpaper and junk stuck to the receptacle yoke? <S> That . <S> That is a picture postcard example of not an acceptable grounding path for receptacles. <S> Those things are insulators, and will prevent solid contact between the yoke and the metal box. <S> Also, the yoke is catching the dry wall and is "proud" of the box. <S> Because of that, it needs a ground pigtail. <S> They are for switches. <S> (Why?? <S> shrug) <S> The ground screw was not having casual contact with the box sides. <S> The ground wires were, that was grounding the box. <S> The yoke was grouhding through the mounting screws. <S> The screws conduct well enough to pass a 3-lamp test, but they won't handle serious current when they need to. <S> Obviously neither will the "casual contact" of the ground wires to the box. <S> If you are changing receptacles, pause to learn what a "tab" is, why you break off "tabs", and check every receptacle for that. <S> You'll thank us later. <S> There in the box, that hole is threaded #10-32. <S> Code requires -32 or finer threads for proper thread engagement given the thickness of junction boxes. <S> Do not use any random wood or metal screw. <S> Home Depot sells adorable green screws just for this purpose, some with little ground wires already on them. <A> In this situation I think a "greenie" grounding wire nut, a wire nut with a hole in the tip, might be the easiest thing to use. <S> Take a 12" pigtail of bare #14 and terminate one end under the ground screw at the back of the box. <S> Run the pigtail through the wire nut and twist the two existing ground wires into the ground screw. <S> Then land the other end of the pigtail on the ground screw terminal on the receptacle.
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Yes if that hole indicated in your photo is threaded, that is for the ground screw, and the screw at the bottom of the receptacle is for the ground wire. The mounting screws, alone, are not an acceptable grounding path for receptacles .
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Refrigerator intermittently making loud clicks with compressor banging and shaking Facts: 9 year old Whirlpool refrigerator has been operating quietly for 9 years. Refrigerator has two doors and is top-freezer/bottom-refrigerator configuration. About 3 months ago, it would intermittently - like a few times a day - start making a loud click. That was new. Then about 2 months ago, the compressor, a Panasonic DG51C69RAU6 , started vibrating violently for about 15 seconds at a time, intermittently (a few times a day). It's very loud, like someone striking a cymbal. This violent banging lasts for 15 seconds, and almost always ends with that new loud click, and the compressor falls silent. I'd say maybe 20 percent of the time, the banging episode ends on its own, without a click. But then a click typically sounds 30-90 seconds after the episode. The click also happens when the fridge is quiet (as I noted in the 2nd bullet), but it almost always happens when the compressor starts banging violently, and ends that episode. I have freezer and refrigerator thermometers which show the temperatures are in the correct range. Any ideas what would cause this? <Q> That loud click is probably an overloaded compressor relay. <S> You can do some reasonably priced troubleshooting by installing a Hard-Start Kit. <S> Here is a link to a video that shows in more detail how to install it. <A> When compressor motor capacitors start going bad the motor can have a really tough time starting, the longer time to start drawing more current can then wipe out the start relay. <S> Check to make sure if you have a fan and coil under the fridge that the fan is working and the coils are clean. <S> I have found on newer fridges with r134a once they overheat they no longer cool correctly since your's is cooling I would get the capacitor replaced asap or this might burn out the motor. <S> Capacitors are usually 20-35$ and a cheap way to go for a first step troubleshooting, (this is often the problem). <S> Give that a try and let us know. <A> So this issue is solved. <S> It was a two part problem. <S> About 3 months ago (on top of the banging issue), the refrigerator started only intermittently cooling. <S> It was still banging and clicking as it was before. <S> I suspect the cooling issue was masked when the weather was cold and the kitchen was relatively cool. <S> But once the weather became warm, this generally coincided with an obvious inability to cool. <S> I didn't track the temperatures before though. <S> I only recall they were acceptable, but... can't say if they were in as tight a range as they are now. <S> Edit : If you have this problem, it would be useful to get a refrigerator and freezer thermometers. <S> If the freezer temp not tracking tightly around 0F, and refrigerator temp is not tightly within 32F and 40F, it could indicate a temperature sensing issue. <S> The repairmen came about two months ago and replaced the "start device and capacitor." <S> This quieted down the banging by about 85%. <S> Instead of banging loudly every day, and commonly having loud clicks from time to time, it would happen once a week, and it was muted. <S> And it was more of a chugging I guess. <S> The loud click would occur with the banging/chugging too. <S> The refrigerator still wasn't cooling consistently though. <S> It would intermittently cool, getting down to freezing, but it would routinely stray well above freezing in the freezer and up to nearly 70 in the refrigerator. <S> Then about a month later (I don't have much perishable food, was able to get by, and I waited to gather more evidence and try to identify any other patterns), they replaced the "refrigerator thermostat" . <S> THIS totally solved the problem , in conjunction with the starter mechanism fix. <S> It's been nearly a month <S> , I haven't heard any clicks, no banging/chugging at all, and it's holding 0F in the freezer and 32-40F in the refrigerator very well, and the compressor starts and runs smoothly. <S> So, I think the root cause of the click/banging was a malformed start signal maybe? <S> That signal going into a worn starting mechanism causing the banging, and then that click which coincided with the compressor banging stopping. <S> FYI. <S> @jerry-contrary and @ed-beal <S> , thanks for the information.
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When compressor components start going bad it can cause all kinds of issues. I have been able to fix this problem for several units by replacing the starting cap and sometimes the relay if bad.
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Premium for heatpump inverter technology My understanding is that a variable speed compressor permits greater efficiency and reduce wear & tear. Assume application is in Florida , not NYC. Is there a range for the cost premium for such systems? What is the typical efficiency saving associated with systems? Do variable speed compressors have higher failure rates than their fixed counterparts? Is there any other factors that should be considered when choosing whether or not to select inverter technology? Any lessons learned are always appreciated. <Q> The simplest question can have the most complex answer at times. <S> I'll try to help. <S> Variable speed systems have some advantages over single stage or single speed systems. <S> For Florida I would say the best benefit is that it allows the system to be optimized for dehumidification in cooling. <S> The fan slows down and the cooling coil gets colder and pulls more moisture from the air. <S> This adds to comfort as well as reducing the risk of mold growth in the conditioned part of the home. <S> If any heat pump system is properly sized for cooling it will almost certainly provide all the heat you need without strip heat to supplement. <S> There is another choice which is 2-stage <S> or 2-speed. <S> In this case the high speed is reserved for the dog days and the unit will run on low on cooler days and in the evening. <S> This may be a good choice. <S> Reputable manufacturers will warranty their compressors for 10 years and I recommend Carrier, Trane and York as top brands. <S> Be sure you save your purchase documents and register the installation. <S> The most important thing I can add is that it's true that you get what you pay for. <S> If you look for the lowest cost you get not only the lowest cost equipment but also a contractor perhaps less trained, less equipped and willing to cut corners that will affect you for years. <S> It is my belief that when you see bad reviews it is more likely the contractor earning the score and not the equipment. <S> So I recommend you pick your contractor first and allow them to customize the system to your needs. <A> I've never done a heat pump <S> so I've no idea, because Homeowners who live in extreme climates have been traditionally left out in the cold when it comes to the ductless cooling and heating revolution. <S> Assuming the new (meaning expensive?) <S> technology works, that means you can now use a heat pump in climates where you couldn't before... <S> I guess. <S> Their selling points (none of which can't be achieved by a well balanced normal split system) : "Consistent Room Temperature - No Ups and Downs, Ons and Offs" - "Consume Only The Energy <S> You Need" - "Heats Up Quickly" ... <S> all of those are intrinsic to a well-installed system of any kind. <S> "Energy Use is Even and Steady" - that's the only difference. <S> How 'real' it is, idk. <S> From what I understand, if you can get away with a heat pump that's awesome. <S> You living in NY and me in Chicago, can't. <S> But even if it works, is it a $20k dollar unit? <S> You get one of three things: comfort, efficiency, or environmentalism. <S> Tweaking it to add more than one just costs extra money. <S> Bottom line IMO is ROI levied against comfort. <A> Inverter technology has come a long way. <S> It is cheaper to run the system. <S> As with most things add more bells and whistles and they are prone to earlier failure. <S> The last system I installed had a 10 year warranty that is super in my opinion. <S> As far as the question about make up air it depends on the system. <S> Mini split systems do need a separate vent and a very small fan can bring outside air in the home when the system is running or on a timer. <S> For central air heat pumps a vent is added for outside air on the intake side of the air handler so when the system is running fresh air is pulled in and conditioned. <S> A good quality is important for long life, if you find one at 1/2 the price of a top name brand don't expect it to last as long or even 1/2 as long from what I have seen.
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To recap, an inverter based heat pump will save $ to run and many are becoming much more efficient and some work into the low teens without auxlary or emergency heat strips.
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The GFCI outlet in my bathroom pops when I turn off the bathroom fan I didn't do the wiring in this house, this has been happening since I moved in. Basically, about 50% of the time that I turn off the bathroom fan, the GFCI outlet pops and needs to be reset. Once that happens, the fan no longer turns on until I reset the outlet. This only happens when shutting the fan off, not when turning it on or while it's running. Does this likely indicate a problem with the wiring, the fan, or the outlet? I'm wondering what I should look at first. <Q> I have seen this with fans several times, the fan motors create inductive kickback when spinning down this is enough to trip some GFCI's, if there are no outlets on this switched side of the circuit move the wiring to the line side of the GFCI. <S> I have even seen motor circuits on a separate branch circuit cause this problem <S> but they were usually larger <S> 3+ hp motors in those cases <S> both that I saw changing brands of GFCI did the trick, (the GFCI tested good <S> I have a variable load to test <S> so I know they were good just a bit more sensitive). <A> It's a ground fault. <S> Here's what is happening. <S> When you have a big magnetic coil, and power is flowing through it, it makes a magnetic field. <S> It is the nature of coils to resist changes in current flow. <S> It does this by turning that small force into voltage, which increases until the desired current flows, or the force just runs out of energy. <S> When the insulation fails, the high voltage will ignite an arc that the lower voltage will sustain. <S> It can also leap across switches! <S> In DC power over about 30 volts, this arc is Very Nasty Business because the arc will never stop. <S> However, with AC power, AC switches polarity 100-120 times a second (8-10 milliseconds). <S> The arc will self-extinguish at the next zero crossing. <S> But in the meantime, the arc will flow enough current (potentially a lot of current) to trip the GFCI. <S> However... <S> If you happen throw the switch at the right instant , you are near a zero-crossing for the voltage or magnetic field, so there's no magnetic field and no inductive kick. <S> So no voltage spike. <S> Insulation is failing. <S> This will get worse. <S> But prepare for a fan replacement, or at least take it down and clean it. <S> Damp dust makes a great leakage path. <S> Note that switches have ratings, and their rating for a motor (inductive) load is much lower than a plain load. <S> They may also have a similar "ballast" rating, because HID and older fluorescent lights have ballasts with a big inductive winding. <S> Their tungsten rating has nothing to do with this. <A> I would try just replacing the GFCI switch first. <S> Easy inexpensive way to see if that is all or something more complex.
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When you suddenly interrupt that power , the magnetic field collapses, and this has a small force behind it. It is a sinewave, and part of the time it is near zero volts. Do be sure to work safely and turn off breaker before changing out. It's not the outlet. This is called an "inductive kick" and everything in the circuit must be insulated for it. So, no leakage and no GFCI trip. I would start by changing the switch because they are cheap.
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Letting fresh air through a window without letting noise in I live in an apartment and it's pretty noisy outside, so I usually keep my windows closed. It does get pretty stuffy inside though, so I'm wondering if there's a way to get air through the window without letting a lot of noise in. I've seen some portable air conditioners have a vent sticking out the window -- would something like that allow air to come in, but not noise? (presumably with the fan blowing air inside instead of outside) I live in a moderate temperature area, so there's no central heating / cooling and it's fine to leave the window open at any time. <Q> Human ear is amazingly sensitive. <S> 30 db is a very quiet country side. <S> Flies buzzing, birds chirping. <S> Office is <S> about 70 db <S> 40 db difference doesn't sound like much, but it's a log scale. <S> That office is a thousand times noisier. <S> 3 db is a factor of 2 in noise. <S> That is detectable as being quieter. <S> Just. <S> To make a meaningful difference you have to take at least 10 db (factor of 10) to 12 db (factor of 16) <S> This is difficult. <S> Windows that are designed to reduce sound are made of heavy glass, are double pane, and one pane is thicker than the other, they are mounted in a way that isolates them from each other and from the frame. <S> Ducts that reduce noise transmission are lined with irregular chunks of foam, and have several corners with T's so that the air has to corner while the sound goes straight. <S> Hard to do well. <S> More information: Research sound stage building design. <S> What you can do is mask it. <S> Get a set of external speakers you can plug into your phone, and get a recording of surf, or babbling brook, or wind in the pines. <A> You can do a bit of research to figure out how many BTU you'd need for the square footage of your apartment. <S> How Air Conditioners Work (edit): AC Units suck air from within the environment that it's in (for example your living room). <S> And blows "Fresh" or "Cold" Air back into the same environment and at the same time, it blows the heat that is generated from producing the cold air out of the environment (outdoors) <S> Further Explanation: <S> If I have a bottle that is sealed with a pump at the top. <S> Meaning no air can get out, but air can go in. <S> And I start pumping (the same way AC units pump air into a room) <S> Then the bottle will eventually explode because that air needs to go somewhere, the same way a balloon pops when you put too much air into it. <S> A structure can only hold so much air before it can't anymore. <S> This is why an AC unit takes the air from the room you are in and converts it cold air. <S> And why it doesn't draw "fresh air" from the outside. <S> And simply keeps recycling that air, until the room gets cool. <S> Typically AC units will have a thermostat which will monitor the temperature in the room and shut off when the room has reached a certain temperature. <S> And will turn back on when the temperature eventually rises back up. <S> Because the room you are in, isn't air tight, cold air is going to leak out of the doors, or windows or cracks in the walls. <S> Depending on your setup, if you set it up at a window, the window will be open, but the cover and vent hole will cover the window like this <S> I'm not going to assume this window block will eliminate outdoor noise from coming into the house, <S> But I doubt you'll hear it over the portable air conditioner itself. <S> Because it WILL be loud at high speeds. <S> But not as noticeable at low speeds. <S> So you're either going to have noise pollution from the street by opening a window, or noise pollution from the AC. <A> Aquarium air pump. <S> I invented a solution to the reverse of your problem. <S> It might not be robust enough for your needs though. <S> Cat litterboxes get smelly. <S> The one we have is a semienclosed igloo type. <S> I put an aquarium air bubbler inside the litterbox. <S> The plastic tube (which would usually be weighted and down inside the aquarium, giving off bubbles) is threaded through a hole I drilled in the windowsill. <S> Air is pulled into the litterbox and then pumped down the tube out the hole. <S> Less smell. <S> Of course air comes into our house to replace what the air pump pumps out. <S> It comes in through our poorly sealed door and windows, I am sure. <S> If you have musty funk, or cigarette smoke, my litterbox type set up could help you exhaust it, with new air coming from somewhere. <S> If you want outside air blowing on you, you could put the bubbler outside on your window or in the space between glass and screen. <S> If you want to get fancy you could get one run off a solar battery. <S> Run the tube back into the room. <A> Window fans are designed to be placed inside a window and some can also be reversed for pulling air in, or pushinfg air out. <S> However, no solution is going to solve a noise issue. <S> You will have nooise in one way or another. https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/60fc870e-6fb8-4d7c-bad4-686dbcb6977f/svn/white-lasko-window-fans-w09550-64_1000.jpg <A> I would go with an eco-friendly air purifier with an ionizer. <S> These will circulate the air in your home, remove dust and odors while adding ozone to the air. <S> These are great.
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Now you have a little air pump which is pumping fresh air out into your room. Short of replacing your window with a duct with several turns, lined with sound baffles, you aren't going to get quiet. Your best bet is to get a portable air conditioner.
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Name for tombstone-holder parts? What are the names of the metal photographed parts? The tombstones are inserted to clarify function. I would like to order more of these metal parts, however, I do not know the terminology to Google for them. There are two different though similar parts: <Q> In particular, those in the photo are locking or turn-type , a nice safety feature that makes it less likely for a lamp to fall out of the socket. <S> A search at Amazon.com for Fluorescent <S> Tombstone Lampholder found more than 30 similar devices. <S> N.B. <S> There are two types, shorting and non-shorting, also called shunted and non-shunted . <S> Be sure you examine your socket (you may need to pop off a plastic cover) and get the same type. <S> Also, if you're converting from fluorescent to LED, check the type needed for the replacement tubes -- it might be different from your current lampholders. <A> I am only guessing here ... <S> I'd describe them as tombstone bases if I were ordering over the phone. <S> Maybe "tombstone brackets"? <S> Sounds more official. <S> Wouldn't it be cheaper and less trouble simply to buy a new complete fixture? <A> I have never seen just the ends being sold. <S> I have seen "bare" fixtures ie no ballast for ~10 <S> $ <S> at places like 1000bulbs.com <S> I believe they came with t8/t12 style non shunted tombstones.
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Your terminology is correct: they're called tombstone (or bi-pin) fluorescent lampholders.
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Recommendation for cutting corner of tile? I need to take out about a half inch from the top right of the tile in the bottom left of the opening for this outlet. I’m upgrading it from an old outlet to a gfci outlet and it needs a bit more clearance. Would the dremel tile cutting attachment be the best bet or should I use a type of grinder? Thanks in advance for any tips. <Q> Score it to half depth with an angle grinder to make the corner. <S> Note that you do not need to score it so the two lines meet as this might bleed over. <S> Tap with hammer. <S> The cut does have to be perfect since you will have a plate over it, although you do not want too much coming out. <A> I might still be tempted to use the dremel cutoff grinder disc. <S> Its slow but reliable. <S> Great for scoring if you are starting a job for the vibratory cutter that is hard to start. <S> You can get a vibratory cutter for $30. <S> Practice on ceramic tile if thats what you want to cut. <S> I use mine on wood too. . . <S> But you need ventilation for deeper cuts in wood. . <S> since the blade will smoke. <S> With the right tool head.. a vibratory cutter can cut metal wood ceramic or butter. <S> I mean polymer. <S> Getting a cut started may require patience and some practice. <S> My introduction to a vibratory cutter was the same application as yours. <S> An electrical contractor was putting in extra outlets in my kitchen. <S> And had to trim some tiles. <S> He pulled out an expensive name brand vibratory cutter and made quick work of it. <S> I tried the cheapy version later and it works.. just not on lots of heavy or very precise cutting. <A> I would use a tile nipper to take out most of it, and to get a clean edge, use a diamond grip tile file. <S> Using a grinder will be faster, but your place will be very dusty.
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Vibratory tile cutters are wonderful tools for just this sort of application. If no angle grinder you can use a sharp chisel and basically scratch through it with about the same method.
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60C or 75C wiring for 60C/75C breaker & output heatsink If you have a THHN wire rated up to 90C. You can only use either 60C or 75C for a 60C/75C breaker. What are the conditions where you could use the 75C? I understand the temperature limit is because the internal parts circuit breaker can get this hot and it needs the conductor to dissipate the heat. But what if you install a big heatsink just outside the breaker. Then you can use 75C or even 90C already? <Q> The idea of modifying the breaker so you could use smaller wire is wrong on a number of levels <S> but I'll just discuss one. <S> But what if you install a big heatsink just outside the breaker. <S> Then you can use 75C or even 90C already? <S> The electrical code requires that most of your electrical system be listed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory (NRTL) such as Underwriter's Laboratories (UL). <S> The electrical code requires that listed equipment must be utilized according to the manufacturer's instructions; not doing so violates the listing. <S> If you modify a listed device, it's effectively no longer listed. <A> The 60 deg column is used for circuits under 100 amps. <S> You can use the higher ampacity of the 90 deg table to do any derating for more than 3 current carrying or larger circuits usually can usually use the 75 deg column since this is the rating of most circuit breakers. <S> To use the 90 degree column you usually must terminate prior to the breaker with listed lugs, then upsize the wire to the breaker. <S> This method is used when derating is required due to the number of current carrying conductors. <S> Heat sinks would never be allowed as the breakers are not listed for 90 deg. <S> The problem is not breaker heat but more of wire insulation for most residential installs. <S> NEC article 215.2. <S> explains how you could use the 90 deg table and exhibit 215.1 has a nice picture that makes it easier to understand. <S> More than 3 current carrying conductors requires derating this means <S> if you have 4 in 1 conduit now you have to start derating the wire ampacity. <S> but I don't think I have seen a residential breaker rated for 90. <A> You use the 75°C rating when both ends are rated for 75°C <S> In order to be able to use a THHN wire at its 75°C rating, <S> all the splices and termination-points in that stretch of wire need to be rated for at least 75°C. <S> This is true of some styles of splicing devices (such as Polaris-type insulated mechanical connectors) and of breaker and panel lugs, but most notably not of wiring devices such as receptacles and switches. <S> As a practical result, this means that when working in conduit, feeder wires, along with wires to hardwired appliances, get to use the 75°C column, while general lighting and receptacle circuits are restricted to 60°C ampacities. <S> Of course, this only applies to wires 8AWG and larger, as NEC 240.4(D) limits the breakers for 14-10AWG wires to their conventional (60°C) ratings anyway. <S> The 90°C column, by the way, is only conventionally used as part of applying derating factors for ambient temperature, or more commonly, conductor counts in a single conduit. <S> While it's possible to run wire at that temperature by using a pigtail of fatter wire to interface the 75°C lug on a breaker or panel to the 90°C conductor via a 90° <S> C rated splice, this is uncommon, and would only generally be done if conduit fill is a severely limiting factor or if existing conductors cannot be replaced, but can be safely run at the higher temperature rating. <S> Also note that there is no such thing as a heat sink for a breaker -- <S> the calibration of a breaker's thermal trip depends critically on the temperature rise environment the breaker is in, and taking it outside the UL 489 testing envelope would throw that calibration off, heatsink or no heatsink.
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Larger than 100 amp circuits it is allowed to use the 75 or 90 degree collum if the breaker or termination is rated for those temps Adding a heat sink to a breaker would be a modification, and as such would not be permitted.
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Alternative to Silicone Wood Filler for Door Frame We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves. I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better? <Q> The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. <S> The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable . <S> Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. <S> The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap. <S> EDIT <S> To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous. <A> While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse. <S> Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix. <A> While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it <S> and you simply want a quick fix to move on Add <S> more trim Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap <S> (assumes you have extra). <S> Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. <S> You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area. <S> Use white caulk <S> The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). <S> Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice. <A> That is not properly done at all. <S> The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. <S> That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor. <S> As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) <S> It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. <S> Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
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My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess.
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I have a depression in my OSB floor caused by a layer of rot I am tiling over OSB board using hardiboard and thinset. I have some water damage from a leaking toilet. The rotted area is about 3 inches square. Once I scraped about a half inch of rot off the top, the floor is still very solid. I don't feel it is necessary to remove the flooring. However, I need to fill it in now so the floor is level before I apply the hardiboard. What is the best way to do this? Can I just build up the thinset in that spot before I lay the backerboard? The depression is 1/4"-1/2" deep at most. <Q> A 3x3 repair using the technique you describe is just fine, assuming that it's not in a critical location, such as immediately adjacent to the toilet drain opening. <S> Otherwise you're unlikely to have a problem. <S> Thinset mortar won't provide much stiffness, but it's certainly hard enough to do the job. <A> I would use some Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty . <S> Mixes up easy, doesn't shrink and you can sand or paint it. <A> I would just cut off a 4x4 section of the subfloor and put a new piece of OSB. <S> It is much easier, faster, and more sturdy than trying to fill the wood you have removed. <S> Make sure you cut where the trusses are. <S> Why risk it on a new floor?
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If it is, you might find that the stress of the toilet on that spot results in too much flex. In that case, cut the area out and float some lumber under the patch edges and replace the piece.
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Are pipe unions made to a standard size / threading? Are two different pipe unions in a given trade size (1/2, 3/4, etc.) generally compatible with each other? e.g. if you get a new 'half union' would its physical characteristics generally mate up with a pre-existing opposite-side half union from another manufacturer? Note - I'm not asking about how the union mates with the pipe itself , be it threaded, sweat, etc. Just how the union halves attach to each other . <Q> As far as unions from different mfg's of different sizes being compatable my experience is no they are not, even the same brand I checked going from 3/4 to 1 <S> " would not mate up I was able to find one that was 3/4 on 1 side and 1" on the other but next time I will probably just use a reducing fitting as the "special" union was more expensive than a standard 1" union and a nipple + a reducer <S> but I had a space limited amount of room to make the repair <S> so in that case I paid the extra. <S> Also make sure if going from copper to galvanized to use a dielectric union. <S> The failure of a home owner to do this in the past has caused plumbing failures in under a year in past repair jobs. <A> As far as the two halves of a union joining together there is a smooth mating surface which must be a near perfect fit. <S> There is some room for deflection. <S> In my experience this mating surface is usually different with each manufacturer of pipe fittings. <A> Union's are not compatible. <S> Even if the threads are the same (as there are only so many available) the mating surface may not be. <S> You could have a leak free connection that seems tight but can't withstand lateral pressure. <A> They should. <S> We get unions manufactured in other countries, different companies and they all work the same. <S> Some might be larger, say 300lb ones compared to 150lb ones, but the holes will still be the same. <S> We grab the first one in the drawyer. <S> It could be 20 years old or 2 years old. <A> In the US, the ANSI National Pipe Thread standards specify thread pitch, diameter, shape, etc. <S> to ensure compatibility. <S> In other parts of the world, ISO standards apply. <S> Trade size alone does NOT determine whether threads are compatible; for example, tapered threads may not make a reliable seal well with straight threads. <S> There are lots of different thread standards, although only a few are seen in common residential applications. <S> The current Wikipedia page for National Pipe Thread has detailed information. <S> The question has been edited to ask whether the halves of a union are standard and compatible. <S> Short answer: <S> pretty sure they are not. <S> There are three thread matings on a threaded union - the threading on either side that accepts the pipe's threads, and the internal threaded mating between the two halves of the union. <S> I suspect there is no standard for the internal construction of a union fitting. <S> The seal between the two halves is a tapered seat. <S> I believe straight threads are used between the two halves of the union so the mating at the tapered seat is tight. <S> In any event, the angle of taper of that seat and the pitch and position of the threads, and possibly the type of thread, could prevent a good seal between halves of different brands.
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If you have half a union from one manufacturer the threads may or may not match up and form a water tight seal with the other half of the union from another foundry. Unlike the pipe side, the mated side of a union is not standardized.
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extend height of wooden railing My house has a loft with a wooden railing. The railing is only 30" high - apparently allowed because builder called it "unfinished storage space", or not "habitable" space, which means it could sidestep code. I would like to modify the rail to be 36" high, and wonder how best to do it. My dream would be to find hardware pieces of some kind that I could screw into the top edge of the 2x6 and then use those to support a dowel; so there would be a gap of 4" or so above the 2x6 and then the dowel. It'd look cool. Maybe a hanger bolt, except I don't think they come that large. Or a lag eye bolt, but again, I don't think they come that big. Simply replacing the 2x6 vertical stiles would be simple, but a PITA as there are maybe 60 or so of them. Or something completely wood-based. Not as cool as the dowel idea, but fairly straightforward. But I can't quite figure how to make it look reasonably nice. <Q> Although it is a nuisance to remove all those banisters, it might be feasible to <S> add a similar number of them. <S> Install new banisters between the old ones, but extending upward 25% to 50% longer. <S> Connect their tops with a railing similar to the existing one. <S> In this picture, I haven't yet installed the new top railing, but you get the idea. <S> The banister spacing is now safer for toddlers, pets, and large heavy toys, and you can select the length of the new banisters to have your top railing at practically any height. <A> Have you thought if it do you like the idea of adding a industrial looking pipe hand rail? <S> (I think black would look <S> great).You could do a 6” or so version of the kind of mounting seen in this bunk bed railing All these fittings are easily found. <S> Be sure to use a pipe diameter that is code approved I think <S> 1-1/4 <A> You could install new balusters in between the existing ones to reduce the gap to modern standards. <S> These new ones could extend 6 inches and support an upper rail, which could be a bit smaller than the lower rail to leave a 3-1/2" vertical gap and still meet code there as well. <S> That's all I got. <S> It's getting too late out for creativity. <A> You've suggested that you can't get a hanger bolt, but Fastenal has them in at least a ten inch length overall. <S> Zinc finish (yucky) <S> but it's an example of a product that does exist. <S> The twelve inch version is less expensive! <S> You could implement the hanger bolts using the rod (dowel?) as described and add a cylindrical wood cover over the hanger bolt to dress it up a bit. <S> Would you thread in the hanger bolt to the top rail and drill counterbores in the new top rail/rod with plugs to hide them? <S> Logistically, I think that's the only method available, as you can't spin either component around independently to screw the second to the first or vice versa. <A> Replace every 3rd (maybe every 2nd) baluster with one that is 6" taller; this should be about 20 of them. <S> Cut a circular-shaped scallop into the top of each one of these (using a hole saw) and then the top horizontal member is wooden dowels laid into those crescent-shaped depressions (and secured with screws). <S> Maybe paint the dowels a blue matching the metal spiral staircase <S> so it seems to be metal. <S> Rationales for these decisions ? <S> Not clear from picture, but on the existing rail, the top 2x6 is too close to the insulated metal chimney; I'm going to have to deal with that somehow <S> and I don't want the extension to also be too close, hence putting the new horizontal member on top of the new balusters instead of inside (to the loft side of them) <S> the way the existing 2x6 is. <S> Don't want to use metal for the new top piece because of expense and because I can't find pieces of anything (copper, EMT, etc) that is available in longer than 10ft lengths <S> - I need 11-12ft, and splicing would be tricky and probably unattractive. <S> No reason to add balusters to get spacing to code, as this is not considered "habitable" space <S> ; furthermore, to get up to code, I'd have to do the major (and impractical) project of replacing the spiral staircase (it only turns 180 degrees). <S> Thanks for all the great suggestions that helped me get here ! <A> Maybe architectural cast iron panels:
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Or just replace half the existing balusters with longer ones and add an upper rail in the same manner. My first thought was adding a layer to the top rail using pocket screws, but your text suggests a different approach to the final result.
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Should my sump pail be perforated? I'm replacing the sump basin/liner in my home which is currently a perforated 5 gallon bucket surrounded by gravel. I have an interior drain system that has two pipes terminating into the gravel pit area (but not into the basin itself - the water dumps into the gravel and through the holes in the bucket). We have a high water table and the sump runs every few minutes on normal days. My question is: should I replace the bucket with a solid liner, with openings for the drain pipe to go directly into the basin to be pumped out.... or should I use a perforated liner that allows water to come in in addition to the drain pipes? It seems counter-intuitive to me to have the drain pipes empty into a basin with holes in it... but maybe I'm missing something and water needs to be allowed in in addition to the drains? I really appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks! Oh my - two very different responses! My thought was that if it the liner is sealed any additional water pressure would result in the perforated drain tile doing it's job "better" and bringing the water to the pit. However, the response from Ed was exactly what I'm concerned about (the ground water causing the floor to leak). If I use a perforated bucket it would surely always have water at the bottom because of the high water table. Would it be okay to elevate the sump in the pit (using something like pavers) so that it's only emptying to a depth around 6" below the slab? The problem now is it's constantly cycling to remove ground water that is over a foot below the slab. I'm using a Zoeller without an adjustable float, so raising the pump itself is the only thing I can think of. Thanks again for the responses. Edited to add photo of current setup. The current bucket top sits a couple of inches below the top of the slab... when I install the new basin I will make it level with the slab and fill with concrete. <Q> I've installed many drain tile systems in Minnesota, and none of them used perforated pails. <S> Really, you don't want to be collecting water from that far below your slab (and typically don't need to). <S> All drainage should occur in the drainage medium via the tile. <S> If the drain tile (pipe) is perforated, there's no reason to have holes in your bucket unless you have a particular need to drain that deep. <S> You're more likely to get sediment if you collect from down there as well. <S> Response to your answer/comment: <S> Your drainage medium ( <S> the clean rock I assume is below your slab) acts as the drainage path to the drain tile, which is simply a collector. <S> If they're doing their respective jobs, no significant amount of water is present at the slab underside, and the question is rather moot. <S> It won't keep your basement dry throughout. <A> The perforations are to allow ground water into the pit. <S> If you seal this up your floor and walls will have more water pressure on them and may start leaking. <S> Make sure to use a perforated liner. <A> You're in a high water table area <S> so I'll have to defer to the design of the system as is, as I picture it in my head (because I am not in one. <S> See the old answer at the end, and the comments). <S> Assuming they'd reach into the new sump, cut holes for the drains but do not perforate it. <S> If they aren't going to make it, either extend them or do perforate it. <S> Get a separate switch and put the pump as far down as it will go and the switch as high as possible, for less cycling. <S> But put it on some bricks to prevent it sucking in sediment. <S> Should my sump pail be perforated? <S> That depends on where your water table is. <S> Mine's low and my soil is clay, so I would perforate it. <S> Your water table is exceptionally high, so I wouldn't. <S> The thing you're complaining about is it cycling. <S> It's cycling because it's in a 5 gal bucket, with an integral float. <S> A larger and sealed cistern, with a pump with a separate switch, wouldn't cycle so much. <S> A five gallon bucket for a sump in an area with a high water table... <S> seriously? <S> There's your problem right there.
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You don't need perforation unless you don't have drainage media under the slab, and if you don't, a perforated bucket only serves to allow drainage in the immediate vicinity of the bucket anyway.
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Will my breaker accept #10 wire even though the chart lists #14? I am hooking up a disconnect for heating air unit. The instructions state use a 25 amp 2 pole breaker with 10-2 wire. The breaker says wire size 14-2. It is an Eaton BR225 beaker. Will it work with 10-2? <Q> The Eaton catalog clearly says that the breaker can accept anything between and including #14 - #4 AWG. <A> No, no, no... <S> The breaker isn't saying it's for "14/2" Romex cable . <S> It's saying the terminal is able to physically attach #14 through #2 wire. <S> Whereas the 14/2 cable designation means it has #14 wire and 2 conductors (in house cable ground is counted separately, in cordage it is not). <S> The ability to fit #14 or #12 is irrelevant to you, unless you are mounting the breaker inside the chassis of a piece of equipment that is not part of any building, or your wiring is being done in a very special set of circumstances unlikely to be seen outside an industrial setting. <A> The rules for "normal" wiring state, more or less, a specific relationship between the size of the wire and the maximum size breaker that can be used to protect that wire. <S> For example, 14 gauge wiring must be protected by a 15 amp breaker, but no larger. <S> Similarly, 12 gauge and 20 amp breaker, 10 gauge and 30 amp breaker, and so on. <S> In the case of HVAC equipment, these hard rules don't necessarily apply. <S> It is often (if not usually) acceptable to use a breaker that is, seemingly, too large for the wire size. <S> For example, our heat pump is connected to our service panel by 10 gauge wiring but is protected by a 40 amp breaker. <S> The specific wiring and protection (breaker) requirements are called out on the equipment data tag on your equipment. <S> This link gives a pretty good explanation of how this works. <S> Pay special attention to the MOCP vs MCA section. <S> In your case, I can't say specifically that your breaker can take the size wire you want to use, although @PhilippNagel posted some information that makes it sound like you can connect the size wiring you are using to the size breaker that you have. <S> Good luck! <A> Possibly #14 copper wire could be used with a 25-A breaker if it was dedicated to supplying certain loads in which the momentary starting draw was above 20 A, but the running amperage was well below 15 A, e.g., 12 A. <S> But for general use a circuit protected by a 25-A breaker would be wired with 10 AWG copper wire. <S> Follow the instructions for the load you have and use #10 copper wire. <S> Any statement on this 25-A breaker or in an accompanying leaflet about using #14 wire, must actually be a warning that #14 is the minimum size wire under any circumstances. <S> It cannot be a statement that #14 is allowed in general.
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One thing people often get wrong about wire sizing for HVAC equipment is that the rules strictly adhere to the usual wire/breaker sizing rules for "normal" wiring. You should follow the instructions that tell you to use #10, as it will fit the breaker, and will be appropriate for the amps you are running.
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How can window condensation in a leased condo be dried, if I'll be away for 3 weeks, without towels? I will be leaving my leased condominium in Toronto, Canada for three weeks on 1 Feb. 2019. In cold weather, my window and balcony door sills have pools of water on the floor that sometimes pour into my hardwood floor, much more wringing than the pictures beneath. When I'm here, I sop them up myself. I don't have anyone who can come into my unit daily to soak up. Towels don't feel that efficacious to me. Won't they stay water-logged? <Q> Change the HVAC filter. <S> A dirty filter will impede air flow. <S> Turn on the HVAC. <S> This not only cools/heats the room, but also removes humidity. <S> Get yourself a dehumidifier. <A> I agree with tootea our breath is a huge amount of the moisture, next showering and cooking, you won't be doing any of that. <S> Turning the heat down will also help you just need to keep things warm, open up cabinets with plumbing and turn the heat down to 50f maybe lower enough to prevent any pipes from freezing but the lowest temp should also help. <A> Turn off your furnace's humidifier. <S> Because adding water to the air will cause this. <S> Their breathing, bathing and cooking add moisture. <S> Between the two, they are the source of this. <S> The deal is that relative humidity is a different thing than absolute humidity. <S> The difference is, warm air can hold a lot more moisture than cold air. <S> You are heating your air, greatly increasing its capacity for moisture. <S> You are then adding moisture by breathing, bathing, cooking, or by running a humidifier if your furnace is equipped with one. <S> That greatly increases the absolute humidity in the air, and it can hold a lot because it's warm. <S> Then, the warm air gets near the window, and chills due to contact with the window. <S> This now-colder air has less capacity to hold moisture, it is driven above 100% humidity so it must condense. <S> Your house slowly interchanges air with outside through normal leaks (that's why you don't get CO2 poisoning) and it ejects warm, humid air, and intakes subzero, fantastically dry air. <S> Newer homes are much less leaky. <S> In this case you only want to heat your home enough to keep the pipes from freezing, and you want enough exchange to eject your wet air and admit cold, very dry air. <S> With you not adding any new moisture, window condensation should stop happening.
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Turn on a fan to circulate the air which will remove some of the excess moisture by evaporation. Get rid of the humans .
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Adjacent doors hitting each other I have two doors at a 90-degree angle to one another and the doors hit each other when they are opened the full way. I guess I could mount a door stop on one of the doors, but it seems kind of weird to put a doorstop on a door. Another option might be to remount both the doors to either/both change the handedness or swing direction, but that would be a lot more work. How can I keep these doors from hitting when opened? <Q> Another solution: Make one of them close to avoid clashing. <S> I reversed my kitchen door <S> so it opens into the hallway instead of into the room. <S> That means it can clash with the cloakroom door if that's left half open. <S> I solved it by fitting a (very gentle, in fact modified with a weaker spring) <S> automatic closer to the cloakroom door, so it doesn't stop half open. <S> Rehanging a door can be tricky but is perfectly doable with reasonable DIY skills. <S> It's one of the simplest tasks for which you need a decent set of chisels (in fact it's the main reason I even have chisels). <S> The job needs proper planning: when I did mine there was enough space on the new side of the frame to make it simple but had it been on a different (non-structural) wall <S> it would have been much harder. <A> One key thing is that I put the stops on the door that faces the length of the hallway. <S> This is important because you don't want to have a door stop jutting out into a corridor or hallway where someone could trip over it or knock things into it, like bags or luggage. <S> By putting stops only on the door at the end of the hallway they worked fine and created no problems. <A> I had this same problem with my front door and the adjacent garage door. <S> The solution was a unique doorstop that is slightly longer than normal and has a roller on the end of the stop as shown below <S> : 6 inch doorstop with roller enter image description here <S> If one door is narrower than the other it should be installed on the narrower door. <S> Here is the link: https://www.doorware.com/site/product.cfm?id=349175
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I did indeed end up putting two stops on one of the doors at the top and bottom and it works ok.
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If my heat pump does not have a neutral, do I still need a neutral wire? I had a friend wire 10-3 line for a new heat pump. He connected the red and black conductor wires in the house to the 2-pole 60 amp breaker and the neutral white to the neutral bus bar. The outdoor disconnect box (pictured) has terminals for 2 conductor loads, a terminal that the neutral ends at neutral. The heat pump condensing unit only has 3 terminals (L1, L2, GRD). My question is: why don't I have to run the neutral to the unit? Should I disconnect it from this terminal and breaker neutral bus bar? My friend said I can land the ground to it but didn't explain why. Thank you for your help in this matter. <Q> Neutral is not ground <S> That thing you are calling a "neutral bar" is bolted directly to the steel of the switch box. <S> It cannot be a neutral, it must be a ground. <S> Neutral is an active, live conductor that carries current under normal conditions. <S> It is normal for it to have "voltage drop", or more accurately "voltage rise". <S> Ground is a safety shield, and should never flow current except during fault conditions. <S> In your installation, your appliance does not use neutral. <S> Cap <S> the wire off <S> (Put a wire-nut on it) and wrap the nut with tape because they love to fall off single wires. <S> A neutral bar would be insulated from chassis, since we are anywhere but the main panel. <S> Conflating/ <S> interchanging neutral and ground defeats the purpose of running grounds. <S> People tend to get misled by a couple of things. <S> seeing the inside of a main panel where neutrals and grounds gaggle on the same bar. <S> That is an exception because the main panel is the one location where neutral is bonded to ground to assure the entire system's voltages doesn't float wildly and stays within 120V of earth (which puts neutral quite near earth). <S> dealing with 3-prong dryer and range connections where the neutral is attached to dryer frame. <S> That is actually bootlegging ground, and is dangerous, except that it is legalized in those particular installations on the logic that the connections are so rarely disturbed. <A> The ground, then, lands on the ground bar in your disconnect ( <S> even though it gets called a neutral bar, it's really a ground bar here). <S> That way, everything is safely grounded, and the neutral's available in case the heat pump circuit gets repurposed for something else that actually needs it. <S> Also, did your installer pull a no-no? <S> Whoever ran the circuit to this disconnect apparently pulled NM cable through the conduit, which is a no-no as NM can't be used in wet locations (such as the inside of an exterior conduit), atop being an impractical nightmare to pull through conduit. <S> The correct thing to use instead would be a set of 10AWG THHN/THWN wires ; it shouldn't be hard to fix, though, thankfully, as with the breaker off, you can yank the NM out of the conduit and run THHN in its place, although you may have to add a junction box at the other end of this conduit run to transition between the THHN-in-conduit and NM. <S> (The reason why I can figure out <S> it's NM from all the way over here <S> is because the paper separator present in NM (and AC) but not in wet-location cables such as UF is visible poking out from the fitting at the bottom right of the box, by the way.) <A> You better hope he didn't run NM-b, because that's a wet location and against NEC for a few reasons. <S> It's can't be run in conduit or used in wet. <S> That needs to be THHN/THWN. <S> It sure looks like it with the paper. <S> That's not UF-B because the sheath is grey which could be used and is solid core and not stranded like TH. <A> The other answers posted here are correct about the use of neutral and using THHN instead of NM in the conduit. <S> But one thing that nobody else has mentioned is that you said that the other end of the wire connected to a 2 pole 60 amp breaker and said you were using 10 gauge wire. <S> #10 wire is only good for up to 30 amps. <S> In the event of overload, your wiring will be melting down. <S> Also, I recognize the disconnect box you are using. <S> It is also rated at 30 amps. <S> So you should change out the breaker inside to a 30a breaker or smaller.
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Cap off the neutral with a wirenut, connect the ground to the "neutral" bar in your disconnect Since your heat pump does not need the neutral, you simply cap it off with an appropriately sized wirenut. The stud you have neutral on, is for ground.
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How can I minimize or eliminate noise and vibration coming into my home? I live next to a sewer lift station. The lift station generates noise through out my home. It seems to be worse late night to early morning and when it's colder out. From time to time I also feel slight vibrations. I cannot take the noise. It can be so loud at times it hurts my ears. How can I pinpoint how the noise and vibrations get into my house? Are there any suggested steps to reduce the noise or to try to eliminate it? <Q> You are entitled to the, “quiet enjoyment of your property” and your local municipalities are not exempt. <S> Pump stations are basically very deep wells. <S> When they fill up from surrounding gravity drainage systems, a LARGE pump kicks on and pumps everything to another location. <S> As you can imagine, the pump needs to be serviced and maintained at regular intervals. <S> Cities often skip maintenance procedures because, 1) lack of funds, or 2) lack of understanding. <S> 1) Cities have tight budgets and will often reduce maintenance on many items, including equipment, roofing, etc. <S> 2) <S> The required maintenance is not random. <S> There is a VERY SPECIFIC list of items to perform AND in a specific order. <S> I doubt the work is being done or being done correctly. <S> At the time of installation there was a “Maintenance Manual” prepared by the pump manufacturer and the design engineer. <S> I doubt they can find it or that they’re following it. <S> I’d contact them and see if they can help. <S> If not, you may need an attorney. <A> Bring your issue to the owner of the lift station. <S> I did a google on lift stations. <S> Not all of them are noisy, it would seem. <S> The best place to reduce noise is at the source - for example, a noisy washing machine can be muffled by putting sound-dampening foam rubber feet under it. <S> If something is vibrating so hard you feel it, that is not good for the machine either! <S> I would make recordings of the loud noise on a couple of occasions. <S> Tell them that it was not always so loud but has suddenly gotten louder, and you wonder if something that was reducing noise before has worn out or possibly broken. <S> You would hate for it to break completely! <S> Offer to play the sounds for them. <S> Tell them you would appreciate it if you could look into the noise issue and get it back to the way it was. <S> That may not be entirely true, but it comes off as more reasonable than a shrill complaint and opens the possibility that there is a malfunction, which will make them more interested. <S> If the people in charge of the sewer lift are not interested in helping you, you probably have a councilman or other city political representative in charge of your district. <S> Go to your councilman's office with your concern. <S> Helping the citizenry (you) is what these people are elected to do. <A> After following the source route, look at ways to reduce sound transmission and amplification at your house. <S> The noise probably consists of ground tremors and air pressure pulses. <S> The ground vibrations move your foundation, then up to the walls and floor/ceilings. <S> Pick up a sound-level meter and put it on a tripod. <S> Then you will know where to apply sound reduction techniques. <S> Point the sound meter through open and closed windows. <S> Then point it inward to compare readings. <S> With some remodeling the quietest areas could become your safe haven. <A> The lift station generates noise through out my home. <S> It seems to be worse late night to early morning and when it's colder out. <S> From time to time I also feel slight vibrations. <S> It sounds like these are low frequency sound. <S> They're much more powerful as a result. <S> Think of a subwoofer speaker. <S> They produce low bass noises and they don't need a direct line of sight to reach you with hard hitting sound. <S> This works the same way. <S> I would suggest A wall. <S> It won't stop the noise, but a solid wall would absorb some of the noise Approach the owners of the station and explain your dilemma. <S> If you erect a wall, they might be willing to install some sort of sound barriers on their side <S> Not terribly cheap, but they're designed to catch and defeat low bass frequencies
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While the noise is occurring, check various walls and ceilings to look for any louder and quieter areas. There’s little you can do to your house to solve this type of problem, but the city can give the pump an overhaul or replace it and 90% of your problems will go away. Add some acoustic foam barriers to the corners of your rooms. Then contact the city or whomever is in charge of the pumping station.
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Is insulating basement ceiling or first-floor walls more effective? In an old house with plaster walls there is a large room on the first floor with wood floor. The walls are not insulated. The basement has no ceiling, so you just directly see the subfloor of the first floor. There is no insulation. What is more effective, insulating the walls on the first floor (with blown-in insulation from outside holes), or attaching some insulation under the subfloor? <Q> If your walls are not insulated, then the walls need to be. <S> If the walls of your basement are insulated then no insulation in the floor joists should be installed. <S> Or have closed cell spray foam installed in the floor joists. <S> You can have someone come in and foam the walls to ensure a complete fill of the wall cavities. <S> That would be the most efficient way of insulating your room. <A> It's far more important to insulate the walls, if you must choose. <S> Far more heat is lost through the walls than the floor, for several reasons: <S> The walls are exposed to the weather. <S> Wind and rain extract heat much more quickly than the stagnant air in the basement does. <S> The basement is partially insulated by the Earth. <S> Assuming it's partly or mostly below grade, relatively little heat transfers through the foundation. <S> Most of the heat in your home is above the floor. <S> Since heat transfer rates relate directly to temperature differential, the highest rate is in the upper portion of your walls. <S> It probably doesn't need to be said, but if your attic isn't insulated well, that's your highest priority. <A> Floor insulation is not going to make the room significantly warmer by itself, but if your basement is unconditioned, it can help eliminate drafts. <S> Underfloor insulation can also help prevent heat loss by retaining heat in the winter and preventing cool air from falling into the floor below during the summer. <S> This can also help by creating a vapor barrier, preventing any moisture from reaching the bottom of the wood floor above. <S> Fiberglas insulation is also an excellent fire retardant. <S> I would start by using some roll insulation with insulation <S> supports for the floor. <S> Regarding wall insulation, I suppose that depends on where you live. <S> I live in southeast USA. <S> I have done a lot of remodeling here and have seen a lot of mold issues where people have insulated behind plaster. <S> I have also seen instances where that hasn't happened, primarily in the mountainous areas near my home. <S> I know that plaster walls were designed to be able to dry themselves. <S> I also know that plaster is nearly double the thickness of standard 1/2" sheetrock. <S> Therefore, the "R" value of a plaster wall would be at least (probably more than) double of drywall. <S> Consider these issues before insulating the walls: <S> Seal cracks in the perimeter of your attic access hatch, around the inside of windows, at light switches/outlets and door trim. <S> Repair <S> any damage to the plaster walls. .
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If your basement is not insulated, then you should have insulation with Kraft Faced paper installed with the paper side against the floor of the upstairs.
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connecting three 8 gauge wires, wire nut or multi-port? I am connecting sets of three #8 wires for a 220 circuit, and have found large blue wire nuts from Ideal that are rated for this wire size. But they are very difficult to twist to the point that the wires themselves begin to twist together, and upon removal the nuts don't seem to have made much of a grab on the wires, or to twist them. The wires are a combination of 7 strand and 19 strand. I see that multipart "Polaris" type connectors might be better, though much more expensive. I also wonder whether the set screws on Polaris (or the Morris that seems to be the same but much less expensive) are subject to backing out unless locked in some fashion. Help greatly appreciated! <Q> If you mean these , they are not -- <S> oh wait, <S> if you dig into the data sheet , they are rated for three #8. <S> Things the literature doesn't tell you that the data sheet does. <S> Now, you are pushing the limit of the wire nut's range, so it may be difficult to work with. <S> They work better in the middle of their range. <S> It also sounds like <S> you are being timid with the wire nut , and you really need to show it who's boss. <S> You're worried about the wires twisting, <S> they're supposed to twist . <S> If even the insulated parts of the wires start to coil around each other, that's fine, that's an indicator that that you're tightening it enough. <S> the wires that will be going into the wire nut. <S> That is just dumb <S> , the wire nuts themselves <S> are about to do a fine job of that . <S> Make sure the wires are square/even going in, pretwisting <S> makes that harder. <S> Also you have a chance of twisting in the wrong direction. <S> Never tape wire nuts , except for a single wire on a nut (otherwise, those don't hold). <S> Instead, firmly pull on each wire. <S> They shouldn't even think about coming out of the nut. <S> If they do, that indicates a bad job of wire nutting. <S> They are also making bad contact, and will cause arcing and fire. <S> Unwind it, straighten them out a bit, line them up properly, and do it again. <A> As an alternative, have you considered using a split-bolt connector (we used to call these wire gurneys)? <A> Wire nuts make excellent splices but they do require some proficiency before you can make reliable connections. <S> Even people that are proficient struggle with bigger stranded wires, and the combination you're splicing is near the limit of the connector. <S> If you want to use wire nuts, get a few scraps of #8 stranded and practice with them. <S> (Regarding wire nut termination methods - I can take or leave pre-twisting with solid wire, but I never pre-twist stranded wire. <S> Make sure your wires are even. <S> Tug test each wire.) <S> The insulated lug connectors such as the Polaris are expensive and bulky but they are pretty straightforward, <S> as long as you follow the instructions and strip the right length and torque the lugs as directed, there's really no learning curve to become fully proficient. <S> Insulated lug connectors are not immune to failure, but nothing is. <A> You can hold the insulated portion of the wires stable with a pair of needle-nosed pliers for stability. <S> Typically, wires are meant to be twisted together first, before applying the wire nut. <S> The large, blue marrettes are designed to handle a pair of #8 AWG conductors. <S> You can always cut off any excess strands of wire before putting the wire nut on.
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Twist the wires together with a pair of lineman's pliers before you put the wire nut over them. In my opinion you did something very important: if something doesn't seem to work right for you, find an alternative. Also, do not pre-twist Strip back enough of the insulation to allow for an easier twisting motion.
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Using PEX Fittings with Nylon Tubing I'm planning on plumbing my shop for compressed air and I think I want to use nylon tubing, like what comes in the RapidAir kits. I don't want to use PVC for obvious reasons, and though I think PEX could technically work, its temeperature derating curve concerns me given the pressures and temperatures the material would see. My question is this: has anyone ever used PEX barbed fittings and crimp rings with nylon tube? I'm not a fan of push-to-connect fittings and compression fittings are expensive and difficult to install in tight spaces. I'm sure brass PEX fittings could handle at least 160 psi (what I believe is PEX's maximum rating) and I think the dimensions are compatible with nylon tubing. What do you think? Thanks! <Q> There is a great video on YouTube by "The Build Show" about various PEX and push to connect fittings. <S> They pump them up until they burst. <S> They burst well above the stated ratings. <S> Unfortunately I can't answer the nylon pipe question but check out the video <S> The Build Show with Matt Risinger 14,000 PSI test <S> I temporarily installed PEX Airlines and PEX oil line for my best friend who is a mechanic and that was four years ago. <A> Pex will work as long as you dont exceed the max PSI. <S> Moisture build up will be the problem. <S> All of the built up moisture could escape into your air tools. <A> Short answer: <S> Long Answer: <S> GAWD <S> NO! <S> Your fears are totally unfounded, those push-to-connect fittings are far more secure than PEX crimp fittings - Porsche, Ferrari, Jaguar, Mercedes, BMW, Fiat and Volvo even use them in their cars. <S> They only fail if you don't push the tube in far enough. <S> Crimp, or threaded fittings fail in all sorts of unexpected circumstances.
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NO Nylon doesn't compress the same way PEX does and thus needs to be compressed more so your go no-go tool won't be able to tell you if you have a good fit.
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How important are stainless steel fasteners for redwood? I'm doing an earthquake retrofit on my house. I've read that you should use stainless steel instead of hot-dipped galvanized for any fasteners in redwood (and pressure treated lumber, too). How important is this? It's a pain to source the stainless steel fasteners... Are they going to be less structurally sound? I obviously don't care about anything cosmetic under the house. The redwood is decades old at this point. <Q> the have good strength/structural integrity <S> they are reasonably inexpensive <S> Secondary reasons: they are aesthetically appealing compared to others <S> they are ROHS compliant <S> Anyway, the most important thing to note is that galvanized steel is significantly weaker than stainless steel . <S> The corrosion protection is also less durable than stainless. <A> You can easily find galvanized fasteners that are rated for contact with all woods, including redwood, cedar, and pressure treated - see, for example, Simpson Strong Tie products. <S> Stainless is generally more reliably corrosion resistant since it's not a coating, all of the material is corrosion resistant, and stainless steel is generally much stronger, and much more expensive - but stainless fasteners are not hard to find, any local or online industrial supply or building supply can source them. <A> Galvanized is fine in a desert -dry. <S> I have about 40 " of rain a year and galvanized is gone in about 8 years <S> and then underlying steel fasteners are gone in about 15 years in a deck and 20 years in siding. <S> Stainless deck screws are marked "316" , probably true and they are cold worked to almost as high a strength as deck screws ( which are heat-treated). <S> I have found SS deck screws to require proper clearance and pilot holes to avoid twisting off ; maybe something to do with cold work rather than quench and temper for strength. <S> The SS will not take the abuse of steel deck screws. <S> At 20 years my galvanized joist hangers are rusting away/ falling off, corrosion depends mostly on how wet the location.
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Primary reason for using stainless fasteners are: they are corrosion resistant
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What tests can I perform to figure out if a wire is my Grounding Electrode Conductor? As part of some investigation into the systems of the house I live in, I was looking at the grounding and bonding wiring for the house, as most of it is accessible from the basement utility room. In particular, I found that there is a bare 6AWG wire that runs from the casing of an abandoned-in-place well in a cellar-space under the back yard, up to the ceiling, through the back foundation wall alongside the old water line from the wellhead equipment (all of which was abandoned in place as well), along the utility room ceiling, and off into a finished ceiling space in the basement, but in the right direction to be connected to the panel, which is located in the garage. This wire is also connected through a tap splice of some sort to a second copper wire (which appears to be 10AWG or so?) that connects to a ground clamp on the cold water pipe system. How can I verify that this wire is connected to what it appears to be connected to (aka the main panel in the garage)? I would like to use it as a place to tap retrofit equipment grounding conductors, as I should be able to reach down there from the range and especially the laundry equipment (dryer and washer) with relative ease, and there is also an improper (run to cold water pipe) retrofit ground wire on the furnace circuit that I would like to convert to a proper (albeit possibly redundant) retrofit ground wire. Note that the furnace circuit is run in EMT for an unknown length, with metal boxes, so I do have effective access to both ends of that retrofit EGC. Also, the electrical panel is flushmounted into a finished garage wall, so I have no access to that end of the purported GEC. <Q> I was taught to step back and take a good look at what I was trying to accomplish. <S> The two reasons for grounding are: <S> To limit voltages caused by lighting or by accidental contact of the supply conductors with conductors of higher voltage. <S> To stabilize the the voltage under normal operating conditions (which maintains the voltage at one level relative to ground, so that any equipment connected to the system will be subject only to that potential difference). <S> That's right out of the Handbook. <S> Personally I can't think of a better grounding electrode that a metal well pipe sunk over 30' in the ground, and even though some of the system is possibly not exactly code (the #10 ground) any ground is better than no ground . <S> I think if I could verify that the grounding conductors that you mentioned were actually part of the grounding electrode conductors, then I would make any necessary corrections and use it. <S> You are allowed to tie grounding electrode conductors together other than the panel so long as they maintain a single point of ground. <S> One final comment, reading and studying NEC Article 210 all these years, I believe that saying there is redundancy in the grounding system is from the department of redundancy department (joke). <S> Hope this helps and good luck. <A> I read this several times and thought about it, it's a good question. <S> If I follow, the main mystery is what happens to that #6 from the old well that disappears into the finished ceiling in the remote part of the basement. <S> I could think of some tests that may or may not shed some light on what goes on up there <S> but bottom line you can't be confident everything's as it should be. <S> So what's the likelihood <S> that whatever happens above the finished ceiling etc. is compliant? <S> I think low. <S> The presence of the #10 splice jumper to the cold water pipe makes adds to my skepticism on that point. <S> So I am sure you already thought of this <S> but if you bite the bullet and extend the GEC from the well pipe where it comes enters the remote part of the basement, out the foundation and along the outside perimeter to the garage panel, and use an H crimp to connect it to the GEC, <S> you know you have that electrode bonded properly and easy for anyone to inspect in the future, and easy to tap for retrofit grounds. <A> How to figure out if a wire is my Grounding Electrode Conductor? <S> A bare 6AWG is a pretty good candidate. <S> How can I verify that this wire is connected to what it appears to be connected to? <S> Pull on it. <S> If you can't verify it and you're doing new work, then I'd assume you can't use it. <S> Do you have reason to suspect you have a faulty ground? <S> furnace circuit is run in EMT Assuming the run goes all the way back to the panel, then it doesn't even need a ground (where I live you must use EMT). <S> The electrical panel is flushmounted into a finished garage wall, so I have no access to that end of the purported GEC. <S> Drywall is the enemy. <S> Take no prisoners. <S> I'd be looking up if #10 is sufficient to ground a piping system, and whether or not there should be a jumper across the water meter. <S> And if for whatever you're doing, a #6 is sufficient for any new equipment that requires a direct connection to a GEC. <S> And a UL listing on: some abandoned well you're using as a ground rod....
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Abandoned or not the old well pipes are grounding electrodes and as such must be bonded to the GEC.
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What's this plastic thing along my sidewalk pavers? I just moved into a new house and am unable to close my gate because there is something nailed to the ground at the threshold that is sticking up too high for the gate the close. Any idea what this thing is? I'm trying to decide if I just remove it to allow the gate to close or if I need to keep it there and bury it a little deeper. <Q> That is called Paver Edging . <S> It's usually covered to the point that you only see a small strip of it. <S> However, it looks like the installer didn't quite finish the job. <A> Your particular brand, SnapEdge is simply too high. <S> You can find their various installation guides PDFs on the web-site. <S> But the clearest explanation comes from one of their drawings: You need to remove the edge, and install it down below the gravel <S> it's next to. <S> Or you can switch to another product where the edges to "under" the pavers; and are effectively hidden. <A> Can't upvote or comment at @alephzero's comment... <S> but i'd say he's absolutely right: it was installed upside down. <S> The part that is shown should be down in the dirt to keep a grip and not let the edging move with the seasons (frost heave or heavy rain runoff). <S> The top surface won't be a collection of trip hazards as shown here. <S> Pull the spikes, turn it over, reinstall, and then finish by covering up the top layer with dirt or mulch or whatever matches. <A> I suspect some klutz nailed it down back to front, and the raised edge is meant to be on the opposite side, along the edge of the bricks outside your property. <S> If that would make your gate shut properly, just turn it round. <S> A slightly raised edge may be intentional, since it will stop rainwater runoff flowing downhill and ending up where you don't want it. <A> The mentioned installation instructions say: [...] <S> our paver edgings may also be installed up against the paver, with the horizontal leg on the outside, if the installation requires it.
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It is used to keep the pavers tight or to separate one section from the other. I would probably do as you suggested and bury the edging deeper. You could also take up those few bricks that are outside the gate, level that area a little better and place those bricks closer to the edging for a more uniform look and to stabilize that immediate area.
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Need to add traction to existing polished concrete surface My front porch is polished concrete, and gets slippery in the rain. What is the best way to add grip/traction to an existing concrete walkway? More info: My front porch is part of the house slab, so it's the full width of the house, and extends about 4 feet from the house. The roof also covers this porch, however rain splashing off nearby bushes always means that the concrete walkway is dangerously slippery in any wet weather. <Q> You can make the surface a bit rougher by using an acid etch. <S> Muriatic acid & water is commonly used to clean concrete prior to sealing or painting. <S> A strong solution allowed to sit will actually etch the slippery surface away. <S> It's much easier than grinding. <S> Once the surface etch is deep enough rinse with fresh water if the first solution did not etch enough add a higher percentage of muriatic acid. <S> I would start with 4 parts water to 1 part acid. <S> Remember to always add acid to water. <S> Most big box stores sell muriatic acid for this use and pool supply stores <S> have it for balancing the pH in pools and spas <S> so it is easy to find and not very expensive at ~$10 per gallon. <S> Added per comment: we always add acid to water to prevent an exothermic reaction. <S> If water is added in some cases it causes the water to rapidly heat and can boil and splatter the acid from the reaction. <S> So to be safe remember AAA always add acid <A> You could lay outside grade porcelain tile that has a good coefficient of friction even while wet. <S> To get it to adhere properly you would need to grind the concrete surface to get the thinset to adhere properly and you would need to use a superior grade of thinset. <S> If you didn't want to go to the trouble and expense of tile, you could just grind the concrete to roughen it and leave it. <A> The concrete probably already has some type of sealer on it. <S> A less labor intensive approach would be to buy a gallon of H&C Clear Oil-Based Concrete Sealer and add a container of Skid Tex to it. <S> Buy a simple rolling pan, a 1/2" nap roller cover and a roller frame with a handle. <S> The sealer is clear and so is the Skid Tex. <S> This particular sealer will dry in about 20 minutes (even though it is oil-based) and a gallon goes a long way. <S> You can get this a little cheaper direct from your local Sherwin-Williams and they will shake it up with the Skid Tex already in it. <S> The sealer is very expensive but I have used this stuff for many applications in hotel concrete walkways and decorative concrete surfaces. <S> This approach will give you a beautiful finish that will last many years and a washable skid-proof surface.
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A less expensive finish than tile (after roughening the concrete) would be concrete stain.
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Goodman Furnace short cycling because of high limit . Cant figure out why? So just had a Brand new Goodman furnace and a/c installed before winter hit. As soon as heating season started i noticed it was short cycling and had a flash code of 4. I contacted the installer and he did a few things. 1. increased blower speed. 2. Said it was not getting enough return air and cut a large vent into ducting right before filter. #3. Turned gas pressure down. It was no longer overheating but the air coming out did not even get the ducting warm. It would take forever to warm the house enough for furnace to turn off. I verified all ducts are open supply and return. Filter is brand new. I checked gas pressure and he had it adjusted to 1.50 where manufacturers spec is 3.50. I adjusted it back up to 3.50 but again after 5 minutes it would turn off and flash code would turn on. I adjusted it back down to 2.50 and at that pressure it does not overheat anymore but it bothers me that the gas pressure would need to be turned down. It should operate at 3.50 for best efficiency as that is what manufacturer wants it set at. What do i need to look at to figure out why my furnace overheats when gas pressure is set to its optimal pressure? Any insight would be appreciated!! <Q> How many square feet is your house? <S> When was it built? <S> And where do you live? <S> You should never alter the gas pressure from 3.5 inch water column. <S> It has more to do with the flame speed then the capacity. <S> If the pressure is too low then your flame will ride on the burner faces and destroy them. <S> NG burns at about 12" per second and 3.5 inch <S> NG comes out of the orifices at about 12" per second. <S> Without the requested information above answering your question is essentially impossible. <S> then it's 8x24. <A> Do you know what the gas input of the old furnace was and if it had A/C <S> what was <S> it's size or rating? <S> If the new furnace is larger than the old unit did the contractor say he installed a larger unit? <S> If the old furnace heated well, and you are not planning on a new addition in the near future, the old furnace would have been the correct size. <S> List the model number and make of the new furnace and A/C unit, measure the discharge ducting and the return ducting, the number and location of all the supply and return registers. <S> There a lot of guys well versed in heating systems, that monitor this site and can give you a lot of information. <S> Post a few pictures of the installation if you can. <S> (hope this helps) <A> Your ducts are too small . <S> Assuming it isn't a bad limit switch (that should be #4) <S> all you can do is #s 1-3. <S> It should operate at 3.50 for best efficiency in a system designed to handle the output of your furnace. <S> If the heat load calculation says you have the correct sized furnace, yours, just like every house built without a ~24" square chase for the HVAC to go in, doesn't have the correct sized ducts. <S> If you want efficiency, you have to tear apart your house. <S> If you want comfort, cut the gas back some . <A> Consolidating some of the answers, a limit switch protects the furnace from overheating. <S> The cause of a trip is usually lack of adequate airflow. <S> Could be a bad switch but not likely on a new furnace. <S> Air travels through the return ducts, through the filter and blower and out the supply ducts. <S> Two things come to mind. <S> Sometimes when replacing a furnace there is no identical match <S> so I need to decide between a larger or smaller capacity unit. <S> In this case a duct modification would be the answer. <S> Second, did you upgrade to a higher efficiency air filter? <S> Air Bear or Aprilaire type? <S> These have a higher resistance to air flow than a standard 1" filter. <S> The fix might be go back to a 1" filter. <S> I assume you had a clean filter all this time.
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If you installed a larger furnace you would have made ALL the ducts smaller relative to the original design not just the return. Duct size may be an issue, but it's more complicated Also if you have air conditioning make sure the evaporator is clean.
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GFCI plug tripping from a refrigerator that is plugged in last on the line I finished my basement that was roughed in 10 years ago and found out that my refrigerator plug is on the end of the GFCi line of plugs. There is only one GFCi plug nearest to the box that feeds the line of plugs to the refrigerator. When I plugged in my older refrigerator it tripped the GFCi plug. How do I make the plug that the refrigerator plugs into at the end of the line a non-GFCi? If I put that one gfci plug on the line only, would I then install a GFCI plug all the way down to the fridge and they will still be GFCI covered? <Q> I’m not going to address the issue of if a GFCI is required but instead directly address the asked question. <S> On a GFCI outlet, the are two sets of hot/neutral connections, “line” and “load”. <S> The incoming power is connected to the “line” terminals. <S> Downstream outlets to be protected are connected to the “load” terminals. <S> (You should probably do this with wirenuts connecting the wires along with short wires (pigtails) to the outlet.) <S> This will remove the GFCI protection from all of the downstream outlets. <S> Any that still need protection should be replaced by additional GFCI outlets, keeping everything connected to the “line” terminals. <A> Refrigerators should not have GFCI protection. <S> That is a huge mistake, and you know why. <S> The food is then served, spoiled, to a child or elderly person. <S> Because of that, there is an exception in Code for refrigerators and freezers even where GFCI is normally required. <S> The receptacle must be a single (not the usual twin) and say "freezer only" etc. <A> Your refrigerator has a leakage. <S> My suggestion is to try it on a RCD with little less sensitivity (30mA). <S> If leakage is big and the bigger RCD still trip it means the refrigerator is gone bad and has to be replaced. <S> I don't understand how there you can leave unprotected such appliances where just getting a different breaker you get protection and no nuisance trip. <S> Where in case of leakage and broken PE you still get full voltage from the appliance.
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What you can do, on the GFCI, is disconnect the downstream wires from the “load” side and instead connect them, along with the power wires, to the “line” side. There's also the worse variant where the trip goes undetected for a couple days, someone resets it to use a power socket, never realizes the fridge was on it, and the fridge rechills before anyone realises the food is spoiled. Let me tell you, aides do not check food they give to seniors!
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Does this truss have two or three bearing points? Part of my roof is made from studio trusses as shown in the picture. I'm trying to determine if any of the load from these trusses is borne by the highlighted wall. The wall is built with 2x6s, but this may be because it contains a plumbing vent. The architect has said that any bearing walls would be indicated in the plans, and this wall is not shown as load-bearing. Indeed, in our variant of the plan, this wall doesn't go to the ceiling, being only three feet high. (Edit: to be clear, the plan for our variant of the house shows the wall as three feet tall, but it was built full-height, and with 2x6s rather than the 2x4s shown here.) Still, it's worrying that these trusses all touch a heavy wall that goes all the way down to the slab. Can anyone tell for sure if this truss has two or three bearing points? <Q> That doesn't appear to be the case. <S> It appears that the truss was too low once it spanned the high ceiling area and the clearance was elevated to create a vaulted ceiling at the top of the stairwell. <S> That truss appears to only have two load bearing points. <S> Trusses are also marked at the load points when manufactured. <S> I would still call the architect to verify. <A> I’d be surprised if it isn’t a 3 point bearing truss and the center wall isn’t a bearing wall, because <S> : 1) wall was designed as 3’ high but built full height, 2) wall was not shown as “bearing wall” but wall shown as 3’ high, 3) truss bearing on “Jack trusses” on left side of drawing, 4) vaulted truss does not have thrust brace connected to left side truss. <S> 1) <S> Here, it appears it could be changed easily because the first floor wall and the second floor wall align. <S> 2) <S> Because the wall was NOT shown as a bearing wall (as you say) and the wall was originally shown as 3’ high, any change is due to on site conditions and specific construction procedures. <S> That is to say, the truss manufacturer probably notified the architect and owner that they COULD build the truss as shown but at a greatly increased cost. <S> Architect’s design ideas often are changed due to cost, etc. <S> (value engineering). <S> 3) <S> The connection of the truss on the far left is highly unusual and gets extremely complicated with a 2 bearing condition. <S> (Is it really constructed like that?) <S> 4) <S> If the trusses are really constructed as shown, the center wall becomes more important as a bearing wall, because it does not have a diagonal thrust brace at the bottom of the vaulted truss where it connects to the truss on the left. <S> A simple check (because you can’t see the footing) would be to see if the wall on the second floor continues (and the vaulted truss continues AND <S> the wired connection on the far left continues.) <S> If you can look in the attic, you will probably find that it’s 2 trusses. <S> Remember, many adjustments are made “in the field” during construction due to cost, ease of construction. <A> This is definitely a 3-bearing truss and it requires the support point in the middle. <S> The reason I can see that is because a two point truss is going to have a lot of tension in the lower chord. <S> The lower chord needs to be a continuous tie from one outer bearing point to the other outer bearing point to hold the walls from pushing outward. <S> At the midpoint, you can see that the bottom chord of the right vaulted side connects to the midpoint of the center vertical member. <S> There is not a bottom chord connected at this point tying to the left bearing point to counteract that pulling force. <S> Therefore, that vertical member would be under a large bending force if there wasn't a vertical bearing point below it. <S> With the center vertical bearing point, the right side and the left side effectively act as their own independent trusses each with their own bottom chord from the midpoint support out to their corresponding outer supports.
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It is unlikely that a residential truss has a load bearing center point unless it was carrying another truss load and being used as a girder. If a wall is changed during construction, it’s usually for a reason.
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Confusion while diagnosing an open ground I have an outlet tester and it says the outlet in my bathroom has an open ground and I'm trying to see if I can fix this by replacing the receptacle or if the problem is elsewhere. With a voltage meter I tested voltage between hot and neutral and got 120 (good), I tested between hot and ground and got 50ish (bad, should be 120), and I tested between neutral and hot and got 40ish (bad, should be 0). Next I shut off power, pulled out the receptacle, and then turned the power back on. With the outlet sticking out of the wall I can test with the volt meter by touching the screws where the wires connect and the bare copper ground wire. I still find 120 volts between hot and neutral but now I read no voltage between ground and either hot or neutral... huh? Questions: 1) Why would the voltage difference disappear on the other side of the receptacle? For the volt meter to read positive volts I had to have a completed circuit right? So where did it go? 2) The outlet itself is not a GFCI outlet. Instead it looks like the breaker it's connected to in the breaker box is where the GFCI test button is located. Is that screwing up my voltage readings? 3) My volt meter doesn't have probes that are long enough to poke into a receptical, so what I do is plug in the outlet tester but only halfway and touch the volt meter probes to the exposed prongs of the outlet tester. But the outlet tester has some kind of circuitry in it, will that screw up my volt readings? 4) And most importantly: Is replacing the receptacle likely to fix this issue, or is it time to call a professional? <Q> The funny voltages you are seeing are due to the lamps in the 3-lamp tester. <S> There is a hot-ground lamp (yellow) and a neutral-ground lamp. <S> They are in a 3-way tug of war with the voltmeter. <S> So wacky numbers like that are not unusual. <S> But it means the ground wire is floating (not attached to anything) <S> so it is easily influenced by whatever it's attached to. <S> The ground wire is simply not working. <S> This would be of serious concern if the circuit was not GFCI protected. <S> But it is. <S> So, shrug, there you go. <A> If your tester shows an open ground and if you want a genuine ground then you need to bring a ground wire to that location. <S> No device change will help. <A> Your ground wire seems not to be connected on the other end or broken in the middle. <S> The voltage you're seeing in the first case is phantom voltage. <S> You're presumably testing with a digital volt meter which has a very high input impedance. <S> If you do what you last propose (pull test tester out half way and probe the pins) you should see the voltage on ground disappear. <S> (And no, that won't screw up anything.) <S> You say that this outlet is on a GFCI circuit breaker. <S> If so, this will protect you from electrocution with the non-grounded outlet. <S> However, this is against the national electrical code. <S> The code allows a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker feeding a non-grounded 3-prong outlet only where there is no existing ground wire. <S> First thing to check, if you're comfortable working on your electrical panel with the cover off (turn of the main breaker first, please!), find the cable coming to that breaker and check that the ground wire is properly connected. <S> Also check any other outlet boxes on that circuit.
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When you removed the socket, you no longer needed the 3-lamp tester so the voltmeter won the tug of war, pulling the floating ground to whatever voltage you were testing to. Since you have a ground wire, just one that doesn't work, the code doesn't allow this.
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Redoing insulation in the basement of the home I recently purchased I recently purchased a home and have begun to do renovations on the basement. I am starting to look at insulation and so I have been researching what the best way would be to do that. The problem I am having is that the house was built in the 70s and has no moisture barrier between the cement wall and the studs. What are my options for insulating? Is there a way to install moisture barrier with the wall frame still up? I’m dreading the work and money it will cost if I have to remove the framing to redo this insulation. As a note, the house has been around 50 years without a moisture barrier, what are the benefits of putting one in now if there have been no moisture issues for close to 50 years? Thanks! <Q> Have you looked into closed cell spray foam? <S> It forms its own moisture barrier as well as being a great way to insulate. <S> No need to remove any framing as it will cover all areas and seal them. <A> There are any number of paint-on moisture barriers. <S> They are available on-line or at the big box stores, paint stores and hardware stores. <S> They each come with their own list of references. <S> Good luck. <A> If your goal is to protect the framing from future water damage then you need a water proofing membrane. <S> That would require installation of a weeping system underground with a sump pump. <S> After all any water making it to the inside wall has to go somewhere. <S> If your concern is the former keep in mind that a vapour barrier goes on the internal part of a wall just behind the drywall or other surface finishes. <S> A typical sequence of construction would be framing, mechanical(some mechanical is allowed outside the envelope), electrical, insulation and then vapour barrier. <S> Spray foam will take care of the last two steps in one fell swoop and do a better job of it most of the time. <S> But it will not stop water from leaking in from the foundation or water table.
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If you looking to add vapour barrier to improve your building envelope then spray foam is your best choice.
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How to unclog cast iron T drain for three sinks I have a common drain for three sinks the clogs 1-2x per year. All three sinks back up at the same time and slowly drain. Total distance between sinks is about 25ft. I suspect that the sinks share a common lateral drain pipe and a T comes off that (hidden in walls) to a visible diagonal drain (several bends) and then down. All interior piping. If I snake down a sink, it just goes across to the other sink. I have cleared the clog by snaking up the diagonal drain pipe (~5ft from a removable coupling). But as stated in other posts, this is probably only creating a hole in the clog. The suspect T is not visibly accessible. The T is probably ~10ft from the closest sink. There's a roof vent somewhere along the lateral pipe. I have tried running hot water down sinks on both sides of the drain, but that does not seem to help. I don't want to damage the cast iron pipes or replace them at this time. Any suggestions for clearing the bigger clog? Anything safe to pour down the sinks that would dissolve hair, scum, etc? I can poor from both sides with or without water in the pipes (~10ft to the T). It will sit there for a while and slowly drain. <Q> Epilogue: <S> I ended up replacing a one foot section of the drain pipe below the T with a clear piece of PVC pipe. <S> I drilled a hole in the PVC pipe and covered it with a sliding rubber coupling. <S> I can now run a snake up the drain pipe to the T area without removing the drain pipe. <S> I also tried a water jet, but it was difficult to maneuver. <S> I also periodically pour hot water and liquid soap down the sink drain to reduce potential blockages. <S> Not ideal, but manageable. <S> Thanks for the suggestions! <A> Heavy duty professional drain snakes have a variety of attachments available for clearing all kinds of clogs but those are more of a pro tool than DIY. <S> I would attach one of the inexpensive plastic barbed clog removers to a snake and very carefully run it up the diagonal to the tee. <S> You'd want to be very careful to make a good secure attachment so you don't wind up with a remover lost in the drain pipe. <S> I'd probably use bailing wire and electrical tape and at least a 6" overlap. <S> (You'll see you'll want the ring end lashed to the snake - that way the barbs pull the debris back to you.) <S> With patience there's a good chance <S> the barbed remover will hack up and retrieve the clog. <A> Or, you could use one of those expanding drain cleaner bladders.
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If there's a way to securely plug two of the three sinks, then you might find a toilet plunger in the third sink would help clear the clog.
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Transition from KERDI membrane backed, to not backed I intend to use KERDI membrane behind some new bathroom wall tiling backed by drywall. How feasible is it to transition from using the membrane to not using the membrane on a neighboring section of the same wall (i.e. only one section of the wall needs waterproofing, but the transition shouldn't be noticeable once tiled). The specs say the membrane is 8mm thick, but I'm not sure if that'll be too large a transition for a good tile finish. <Q> I like to use Denshield for tiling bathroom surrounds. <S> It is the same thickness as the drywall and it comes with a waterproof membrane already installed on it. <S> This means that there is no transition disparity between the drywall and the DenShield. <S> You can run the final row of tile over the joint between the Denshield and of the drywall. <S> You need to use a fiber mesh tape and a liquid waterproof membrane over the seams and corners any of the screwheads but the rest of the field is already waterproof and textured to except tile. <A> I am not sure why it says 8mm. <S> It’s definitely not 8mm thick. <S> It is less than 1mm. <S> It is a membrane, not a board. <S> At 8mm it would be impossible to fit in the corners. <S> update: i found a scrap piece of kerdi yesterday and a penny is a bit thicker than 3 layers of kerdi <A> Look a little closer at the Schluter website. <S> They have a complete system for waterproofing bathrooms. <S> I don't think the Kerdi membrane is that thick. <S> That stuff is awesome second only to Wedi.
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You can compensate for the thickness difference w/ a bit more of thinset. You would remove the existing sheet rock where you are going to tile and replace it with the denshield.
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Can I use 14 gauge wire on a 20 AMP electrical circuit? Running 12-2 Romex cable from the electrical panel to a J-box located in attic. J-box will connect two GFCI outlets and extend a 14-2 cable to the ceiling light fixture box, where other 14-2 cable will be used for a switch. Circuit breaker is 20A. Is that OK? Is it code compliance? <Q> You have to use the rated cable (in this case, 12 AWG), or larger, throughout the circuit. <S> Either use 12/2 everywhere or use a 15A breaker. <S> So all 12 and 20A or all 14 and 15A is preferred, but mixed 12 & 14 and 15A is code compliant. <A> NO! <S> You cannot use any 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit. <S> This is true, even running to a light fixture that has smaller wires built in. <S> However, any added wire must be appropriate to the circuit breaker protecting the wire. <A> Not with that breaker, no. <S> But just change the breaker to 15A. <S> Leave the sheath on the cable about 6" coming into the service panel, and sharpie "14 AWG 15A" on it, so nobody is confused and puts it on a 20A breaker by mistake. <S> As far as "two GFCI outlets" right next to each other, don't do that <S> , it's a waste of $15. <S> Fit a GFCI outlet and a plain outlet. <S> You will notice the GFCI has tape on its LOAD terminals. <S> Never, never, never remove that tape to solve a wiring problem, find another way to solve it, <S> hint: pigtails . <S> Since you want your other outlet also protected, feed it from those LOAD terminals.
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Keep in mind that if you use 14/2 and 12/2 in the same circuit with a 15A breaker then there is a risk of confusion in the future if someone looks at the 12/2 coming out of the breaker and thinks "its 12 AWG, I can upsize to 20A" and doesn't realize there is 14/2 elsewhere in the circuit. The wires built into the fixture are allowed as part of a manufactured assembly. However, any GFCI device is able to provide GFCI protection for other loads too, and that is the only proper use of LOAD.
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Intermittent low pressure natural gas to outside grill I have a Weber S-670 natural gas grill. For the last couple of months, the grill will not heat up after dark, when temperatures are lower. During daylight hours and higher temperatures, the grill works fine. I have contacted my gas supplier and they maintain I have a malfunctioning grill, not low gas pressure. I have had two separate Weber repairmen check the grill, during daylight, and they tell me the grill works as it should. Not sure how to increase pressure to the grill during neighborhood heavy gas usage. Any suggestions appreciated. <Q> As you can see from the image natural gas is supplied to commercial industrial and residential customers off the same line. <S> I know it's a crude image <S> but it's really how it works. <S> If there was a significant pressure drop on a main branch of the system then commercial and industrial customers would be offline, resulting in Factory shutting down and other complications. <S> Residential draw is the equivalent of taking a cup out of a swimming pool. <S> That being said I would replace the regulator. <S> I have been on the receiving end of some really nice barbeques because of faulty regulators. <S> I actually have a bin of them right next to me as I write this. <S> it's the one marked <S> REGS <S> it's an inexpensive repair. <S> The only other thing I would look at is the gas line in your house. <S> If it's undersized and your furnace or water heater starts you could experience pressure drop, resulting in a lazy flame. <A> Check also the maximum rate your gas meter can deliver and the maximum power of your grill. <S> Remember that 1m^3/hr = 10kW, so if you have a G1,6 meter (1,6 m^3/hr) and your grill + furnace + water heater requiore 40kW <S> you have to increase your service because current service is undersized. <S> A test you could do is turn off furnace and water heater then test your grill. <S> I suggest long run to be done with 22 pipe instead of thin 12. <A> get a gauge measuring 0..15 or 0..30 inch water column <S> https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-GPK035-Analog-Pressure/dp/B001TOJGD8?th=1 tee it in at the grill to measure natural gas pressure while grill is running and/or off. <S> Natural gas pressure after the meter should be around 7" water column going to your appliances. <S> Propane after it's pressure regulator runs around 10" water column to propane appliances. <S> 10" water column = 0.4 psi. <S> Don't use any type of gauge that has a psi scale, you need a water column gauge you're measuring less than one psi.
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Another possible issue is the feed pipe being too thin (or very long): long (thin) pipe brings high head, if head is too high gas flow is restricted (to fix you need to run a bigger gas pipe to your BBQ).
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Gas fireplace turning itself off I turn the switch on the wall on to light my gas fireplace. It turns on for a short while then turns it self off. What is the problem? Thanks! <Q> For others that might be looking...not quite enough info in OP, but this might help. <S> A lot of gas FPs have 2 sensors; a thermocouple and a thermopile. <S> If both the main flame and the pilot go out, the problem is likely on the side of the thermocouple (could be thermocouple itself, or the solenoid in the main valve). <S> If the pilot stays on, but the main flame goes out, the most likely (but not only possible) issue is the thermopile (you should be able to test this easily with a multimeter - lots of videos online regarding testing a thermopile). <S> It may just need a good cleaning (again, lots of videos on how to do this online) or possible replacement (not a fun job, but can be done by a diy'er). <S> Hope that helps. <A> I just had a fireplace guy come fix the exact same issue. <S> It cost me $190 total, and it should have only cost me $3. <S> Here's what he did: he replaced the switch. <S> That's it. <S> a $3 switch was the solution to a fireplace that keeps turning itself off. <S> Since the switch is delaing with millivolts, even a small amount of resistance is enough to essentially "shut off" the fireplace, just as if you'd turned it off at the switch yourself. <S> A new switch has no wear and no corrosion, so there's little or no extra resistance, and the millivolts flow just fine, thus keeping the fireplace turned on. <S> Before you blow a ton of money on an expert, try replacing the switch. <S> It's low voltage, <S> so there's no risk of shock... just buy a new switch at Home Depot and replace it yourself. <S> I wish I'd known about this before I wrote a fat check! :) <A> This might be automatic shut-off because a safety thermocouple is not holding the valve open . <S> To prevent explosive buildup of fuel in the air, most gas appliances have a thermocouple that provides electricity to hold a magnetic valve open. <S> In a water heater, for example, the pilot light heats the thermocouple, and should it blow out, the gas is shut. <S> Read the instructions for your fireplace.
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Perhaps there is a thermocouple that needs a minute or so to get warm, and you're not holding the valve open long enough to heat it. According to the repairman, over time, a tiny amount of corrosion (or even just plain wear) will affect the connection inside the switch, creating increased resistance.
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Outdoor extension cord that can be left unplugged? My wife needs to plug her truck in every night (she's a vet, and the drugs need to be refrigerated). Right now she just leaves the extension cord she uses on the ground during the day, which is obviously not waterproof. Is there a product to make this situation safer? I'm thinking like a cord with a cover on the end, which you can close when the cord is not in use. <Q> That way, the extension cord could get plugged into a water proof outletand if it were to short against ground, the gfci would trip. <S> I hung the other end of the extension cord when not in use so that the plug pointed down towards the ground so it would let get ice or snow in it. <S> Surprisingly, the outlet never did trip over many winters. <S> Snow isn’t conductive and pure rainwater isn’t either, but if there was a short to ground you had the gfci watching your back. <S> You could also put a switch on the outlet — either a waterproof one outside or a switch inside, so that you could shut off power when you wanted to. <S> In any case, my experience was in a cold clime. <S> You may want more protection in a wet climate. <S> Or your wife might want to look at self enclosed battery systems or generators to maintain power to her equipment. <S> GFCIs can trip and your wife would lose refrigeration to her truck if she doesn’t have battery backup. <A> There is one, but you're not going to like it. <S> It's called GFCI or Ground Fault circuit interruptor. <S> In Europe it's called RCD, Residual Current device. <S> Either way, it looks for any leakage current (the thing we're worried about) and shuts off the power if there is any leakage. <S> We do <S> not recommend them on refrigerators . <S> Because the GFCI will trip, you will be none the wiser, and bacteria will go crazy on your food and sicken you later. <S> If this is a 12 volt capable fridge, you are better off with a 12 volt power supply safe in the clean and dry, and running a 12 volt cable out to the truck to run the fridge. <S> This will need to be a heavier cord because low voltage equals high amps. <S> If 12 volts gets in the water, who cares? <A> There are weather proof covers made for exactly this purpose: They are meant to be used with two cords but would still be better than leaving the cord on the ground. <S> As mentioned your outdoor receptacle is probably GFCI protected, and if it is not, it should be. <S> Any circuit can lose power when the breaker trips but with GFCI protection <S> it's much more of a problem. <S> Consider installing a temperature monitor on the refrigerator, it's not super expensive.
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When I was in a colder climate and needed to plug my car into a block heater at night, i installed an outside outlet with a water proof cover and put an external rated gfci outlet in it.
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Can I support the front of a microwave with only one of three bolts? Got a Kenmore OTR microwave to replace a GE OTR microwave. Already removed the GE, but I just noticed that the Kenmore is quite a bit deeper. That's no big deal, but my trouble is that the top cabinet mount bolts for the Kenmore line up with cam nuts that keeps the cabinet together. I can get the middle bolt in though. I have heard most of the weight is supported by the wall mount. Do you think I would be ok to only mount the microwave with the wall plate and only 1 bolt on the top cabinet? <Q> There might be another solution. <S> If you have enough clearance over the stovetop, you might lower the mounting of the microwave overall, maybe 3/4 of an inch. <S> Premount the front of the microwave to a strip of 3/4 inch plywood that has holes that line up with the hoods bolts. <S> Have other bolts going upward from the strip to an area of the upper cabinet that is not in the way of the cabinet's hardware. <S> You would adjust the back mounting hardware the same distance downward, and you could fill the side gap and cover the front edge with appropriate molding. <S> If it is tight, even 1/2 inch plywood should be strong enough. <S> Add large (fender) washers to spread the load. <A> I think 'bib' is giving you some good stuff. <S> However, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that one good quarter inch bolt used with an oversized washer will provide the necessary support. <S> (This plan understand that the OTR cabinet is quality built.) <S> The back plate needs to be well secured between two studs. <A> I would not do this. <S> You almost certainly have options. <S> While one bolt may support the weight, the chassis will have a tendency to flex and distort. <S> This could result in visible warping along the top, movement and noise, or worse, misalignment of the door. <S> A better question would be how you can overcome the problem, not whether you can pretend it doesn't exist. <S> Post some photos.
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While most appliance mounts are deliberately over-engineered, leaving out two out of three support bolts seems to be a bit risky.
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Does dark exterior paint hold and transfer more heat to an uninsulated house? We are picking exterior paint colors for our stucco house. The interior walls are plaster and there isn’t insulation in the walls. I want to stay away from dark colors because I think it will make our house hotter(we live in Southern California where it is sunny most of the year). Is my concern valid? If I insulate my walls, will I be able to choose dark colors? <Q> A darker color absorbs more heat so yes it will heat the home more during the day. <S> Your concern is valid. <S> White is the least absorbent color and black is the most absorbent color. <A> A white paint would reflect light and keep the outside of your house cooler. <A> Yes. <S> Every paint has a reflectivity - the cosmological term for the same thing is albedo . <S> This is a hard number, and the paint manufacturer can tell you what it is. <S> It will be a percentage; for instance my favorite gloss white has a 91% reflectivity or albedo. <S> All the rest is absorbed . <S> There is no magic where some of the absorbed energy is radiated, that would be part of the albedo! <S> Solarization is about 1000 watts per square meter square-on with the sun. <S> Figure for the total exposure area, factored for the angle to the sun (which changes). <S> Figure the hours of exposure. <S> Multiply that by your paint's reflectivity and that will be your house's solar gain. <A> If you really want a dark color you can add ceramic beads to the paint which will reflect infrared heat away. <S> e.g.: insuladd <S> I want to do this next time <S> I paint (SoCal also) even if I use a light color paint. <S> Here's an article on BobVila.com with more information.
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If you insulate your walls, you will thus be warmer during the summer and winter, and a black exterior would absorb sunlight and warm your house lightly.
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How can I verify that the ground wires in my outlet boxes are grounded properly? I am a non-professional with limited electrical experience. I recently bought a house built in the mid-fifties that has some two-prong receptacles (i.e., no ground hole). I planned to replace the first outlet in the circuit with a gfci outlet, but when I turned off the power and removed the outlet from the box, I was surprised to find that the cable feeding it and the cable continuing to the next outlet are three-wire. So my question is: why would the person who did the original wiring not use a three-prong receptacle? How do I test to ensure the ground wire at the outlet box does in fact go to ground? <Q> Turn power back on, insert a 3-prong circuit tester into the receptacle and see if the tester says you have a good ground. <S> Even if you don't have a good ground you can install a GFCI receptacle and get protection from any shock that a GFCI protects from (or at least some types of shocks). <S> If you find that the ground is not good then unless and until you fix this, just leave the new GFCI receptacle in place and put a sticker on the receptacle stating it is ungrounded. <S> You can legally use it that way. <A> You could check in the main panel and see of the grounds return to there. <S> Just measuring with an ohm meter neutral to ground Will tell you if they are connected but you would want to verify its not a boot leg ground (power off just in case) . <S> a bootleg ground is when the neutral and ground are tied together outside the main service panel this is the only place they should be connected. <A> I would start with a physical inspection of all the wiring, starting at the panel, then following the cables as able, and inspect each junction box, to assure grounds are really there. <S> In the early days of grounding, a) the wires were grounded to the steel junction box, and b) the receptacle was grounded via its mounting screws. <S> A) still applies and b) is illegal for receptacles now. <S> If you've seen 3-prong cheaters that have a little spade designed to go on the coverplate screw, that was that. <S> Next, I would measure voltage between hot and ground to assure continuity, should be same or higher than as hot-neutral. <S> If it's lower, like 93 volts, that is "phantom voltage" indicating a wire is disconnected between there and the panel. <S> Last, I would improperly connect a receptacle with ground going to the silver screw, and neutral unused. <S> Plug a Kill-a-Watt into that, and a 1500W heater or hair dryer into the Kill-a-Watt. <S> Set it for amps. <S> Turn on the device for just long enough to get a stable amp reading, which should be 12.5 amps if voltage is 120V and proportionately less if voltage is less. <S> (about the figure you get when it's connected properly). <S> Then turn it off. <S> That proves you have a ground path thick enough to carry fault current, which is the point of a ground. <S> Disconnect <S> it immediately, don't walk away from it <S> wired wrong (except to turn off the break to disconnect it, obviously :)
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Connect the new receptacle with hot going to small slot, neutral to larger slot, "ground" wire to ground screw on receptacle.
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Radon Manometer shows negative prey when off I had a Radon mitigation system installed last week. When I turned on the fan it was all working great. A few days later the pressure level started to drop a little each day, until day 4 it was even. Then when I turn off the fan circuit breaker the level goes negative. So the fan is still pulling. What would cause the pressure to be greater in the pipe, open to the outside, then in the basement? <Q> You have to get rid of those bubbles, or your manometer will be completely inaccurate. <S> A U-tube manometer works by balancing the weight and pressure on either side of the U. <S> If there's pressure on one side, it'll push that side down until the weight difference balances the pressure. <S> This all goes out the window when you have bubbles in the tube; the bubbles add height, but no weight. <S> For example, your center picture shows the liquid tops being equal, but with that big bubble on the right it actually means that the weight on the right side is less, which means that there's more pressure on the right than on the left. <S> I'd get rid of the bubbles, and then check again. <A> Just re the bubbles (too long for a comment) <S> : If those are air bubbles, I'd think they'd come out with tapping the tube. <S> I had water bubbles in mine. <S> I believe this was due to condensation, with the tube sitting against the cold pipe in a humid basement. <S> If you have condensation around the base of the pipe, this might be your situation. <S> To get the water bubbles out, I poured the fluid into a dish and sucked the water up with a syringe. <S> (They sell them at drug stores.) <S> Since doing that, no problems. <A> Was your furnace running at the time? <S> If you have a make up air inlet this will cause the pressure in the home to be positive and push the liquid. <S> It could also be why the values are different check it when the furnace is not running and you may be back to 4 then when the furnace is running close to zero. <S> I have seen this but have limited experience with radon abatement systems. <S> Give this a test and it might explain the differences the good news is even with the furnace running your system is pulling out of the well but the differential pressure has shifted so it looks like it's not working, opening a window or outside door while the furnace is running will also change the differential or that is what I have seen. <A> I think the tube was kinked. <S> I pulled it out of the meter and didn’t hear any suction. <S> Then while messing with it suction started. <S> Also it rained for 2 days after they installed the system, before I could get the electric on. <S> I think it has water in the meter, not air. <S> I tried to get it out, stuck a wire in it, tapped it, <S> turned it sideways a little. <S> Either way it is working now. <S> Thanks
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If there's no pressure difference, then the liquid will move until the weights are equal, which happens when the levels are the same (and, if you have the right amount of liquid, it will read "0" on the scale). To prevent a repeat, I mounted the tube assembly to a block of wood that was attached to the pipe.
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Why won't my furnace complete the startup sequence when powered by a portable generator? We recently had a power outage that lasted several days and the house was down to 41 degrees and expected power restore was several days in the future. I purchased a 3500 watt (5250 starting watts) generator with the hopes to heat my house. I only wanted to power the furnace and did not want to worry about having it connected to the house at all. I purchased a single outlet and a plug and added them into the furnace line. So when I want to plug in the furnace I first have to unplug it from the houses power and then hopefully plug it into my generator. The Inducer fan kicks on, the ignition element heats up and the flames start. Just before the blower fan kicks on the flames go out and the cycle starts over. I am assuming I have 1 or 2 problems. 1) Grounding issue.2) Dirty power I would like to explore the grounding issue but am unable to find much on the internet that matches my symptoms (actually I am finding too much, but nothing that seems to fit exactly). I do have a ground lead on my generator, where do I connect it to? My house does have a few poles outside where things come in. I do see a few green wires connected to a pole with a clamp. can I connect my ground to that? is there an easier way to test if this is it the problem first? I've seen things about creating a neutral bonded ground plug and plugging it into a spare outlet on the generator but some reason shorting the neutral and ground didn't seem safe, but I am new to this. If my issue is dirty power due to a cheap generator, am I out of luck? Should I just sell the generator? edit:Furnace is about 20 years old.Generator is not an inverter.Furnace does not seem to have a method of delivering error codes.Furnace works fine when I plug it back into the single outlet I added. <Q> I'd consult with the furnace manufacturer regarding whether the furnace electronics will function properly on generator power that might not be pure sine wave. <S> If that's the issue you're just wasting your time. <S> It's also possible that you could damage the electronics running on generator power. <S> There are ways to clean up the generator power, but none that will be convenient for your testing purposes. <S> I'd look at your generator's instructions carefully with respect to the neutral to ground bond rather than using a plug with neutral and ground bonded. <S> For safety and proper function of the equipment grounding system this needs to be done correctly. <S> I imagine if the generator is used standalone as you are using, rather than with a transfer switch, the neutral to ground bond needs to be in place. <S> (If this is the case it's likely a wiring issue that should be corrected, even though the furnace runs.) <S> But if this is the case, and the neutral to ground bond is missing, it's possible this could correct your issue. <S> Connecting the generator's ground lug to your existing ground rod may or may not correct the issue <S> but again I'd defer to the generator manufacturer's instructions. <S> The furnace is probably always connected to ground by <S> it's plumbing so bonding the generator's ground lug may keep everything at the same reference. <S> I keep referring back to the manufacturer's instructions for safety, I'd not get creative, you could wind up with damaged electronics or a serious safety issue. <A> I too suspect the (lack of) ground-neutral bond. <S> So far as I'm aware there isn't any industry standard for ground bonding in portable generators: it's almost universal that portables in the US have a 3-prong outlet, and in many units the ground prong connects only to the generator chassis, leaving the hot and neutral to float. <S> My favorite remedy for ground-neutral bonding in portable generators <S> I learned from Mike Sokol ( http://noshockzone.org/ ). <S> Get a regular 3-prong male cord end and put a jumper wire between the neutral and ground terminals. <S> Reassemble the cord end and label it as a ground bond jumper. <S> Plug it to an unused socket on the generator and test the furnace again. <S> A 20-year old furnace is likely to have a single LED which lights solid when all is well, or gives a series of flashes when there's some error. <S> The control board is likely to be mounted in the blower compartment, and usually there would be a small window through which the LED would be visible -- though it may be dim, and it may be visible only when viewed on exactly the right axis. <S> It could be easier to see if you remove the blower compartment door, keep all hands, long hair, clothing, etc clear of being drawn into the blower, and hold the blower door safety switch so that the control board can power on. <S> Supposing <S> an indicator LED is found, it'll need to be decoded. <S> Often there's a wiring diagram on a label fixed to the inside of the blower compartment door; the "magic decoder ring" for translating flash count to a meaningful trouble cause might be as simple (inconspicuous) as a footnote on that schematic. <A> Many flame presence detectors use the relationship between Earth and one side of the Mains to sense a small current passing through the flame. <S> If the voltage is not as expected, the flame presence / failure detection may not work. <S> So again, establishing the proper relationship between Mains and Earth is critical for proper operation. <A> Had the same problem with my generator and gas furnace. <S> When powered by generator (through a transfer switch) <S> the fan kept cycling when no heat was called for. <S> I was quite puzzled. <S> Did some research and discovered the bonded neutral in the generator was causing stray current flows. <S> (Neutral and ground are already bonded in the house panel) <S> Unbonded the generator neutral and the furnace worked fine. <S> I fixed up a dummy 3 prong plug with the neutral and ground connected to make the generator bonded neutral again when not connected to the transfer switch.
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It's possible that your furnace's control wiring in some place uses ground as a return path, and without the neutral to ground bond that path is not available.
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Control individual bulbs in a 6-can dimmer series This is a complicated question, and maybe there is no way to do it, BUT...I currently have a 6-can series dimmer in my basement (home theater) aligned in 3 pairs. I would like to be able to control pairs of cans individually. For instance, when watching a movie, I would like to be able to completely turn off the bulbs in the first pair nearest to the screen, while allowing the middle pair immediately above my seating position to be dimmed to say 5-10%, and the last pair behind my seating position to be completely off. There are times though that I would want all the bulbs completely on. I bought 6 dim-able smart bulbs and an Echo Dot thinking I could replace the current bulbs with these, set the dimmer switch to be completely on all the time, and configure the Echo to be able to do what I just described. However, it seems my Lutron dimmer switch won't stay in full mode with these bulbs, so I put back the old bulbs. Does anyone know how I might accomplish what I'm trying to do? Can I just replace the dimmer switch with a normal switch to turn all lights on/off and then use my smart bulbs and Echo to control the lighting? If so, is there anything special I have to do in the wiring to change over from dimmer to normal switch? Is there such a thing as a smart dimmer switch that would allow me to control "zones" of lights in a single series of cans, somehow? I know this is probably an oddball request, but am hoping someone out there would have a decent solution to my desire. Thanks! <Q> When the smart bulbs say "dimmable", what they mean is you can dim them via the smart control system built into the bulb. <S> They do <S> not mean you can put them downline of a dimmer. <S> They especially do not mean you can do both at once! <S> This is something we see a lot of, people getting a bunch of random lighting-control parts and expecting it all to just "automagically" work together. <S> Nope. <S> One control system at a time. <S> If it's not the only light in the room, I would advise bypassing the old dimmer entirely and just hardwire always-hot to the bulb sockets. <S> Otherwise, yank it out and replace it with a plain switch, but expect weirdness if you try to control the lights both with the WeMo and the plain switch. <A> I bought 6 dim-able smart bulbs and an Echo Dot thinking I could replace the current bulbs with these, set the dimmer switch to be completely on all the time , and configure the Echo to be able to do what I just described. <S> However, it seems my Lutron dimmer switch won't stay in full mode with these bulbs... <S> Remove the dimmer, replace it with a regular switch, turn it on and leave it on. <S> This is a $2 / 15 minute solution to all your problems so its hard to beat. <S> You could jump out the switch, hardwire it always on, and put a cover plate on, this is a $1 / 10 minute solution, but I'd still put a plain switch there. <S> That way if you ever need to go back to regular bulbs, even temporarily, you can still turn the lights on and off. <S> You may also want to use this switch to reboot your light bulbs. <A> According to the Lutron website, there is no special wiring to do that. <S> Another solution would be to have 3 Lutron dimmers side by side, and redoing the wiring to your 3 pairs of bulbs. <S> Ouch. <S> Another solution would be to use 3 "professional" lighting dimmers, but that would also require new wires, electrical and control ones... <S> Good luck! <A> Solution -- put the dimmer at the fixture and control it remotely These sorts of lighting-control problems often seem like they require running bunches of wire to either a control bank or a lighting control panel, which does not sound like an option in your case. <S> However, one can put dimmers at the individual fixtures instead and control them via power-line control -- X10 was the original incarnation of this idea, but has been succeeded by the more modern Insteon protocol. <S> This only requires one wall control and six dimmer modules, one for each can, and lets you have basically arbitrary control over your can lights -- on/off/dimming, in any combination you wish, without adding any extra wires to the picture.
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Putting back a standard (on/off) switch should allow you to use your smart bulbs.
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Can I use two 30amp breakers instead of one 60amp? I bought a heater (ecosmart11), it needs 60amp. In the building I live I can't change the wiring from 40 to 60 (I bought the place, tho). So my 60amp breaker is useless. But, I can put two 30amp breakers. If I "split" the cable and instead of black, red and green, I have 6 cables, and plug in each group on each breaker, with it works? <Q> You definitely do not want to do this. <S> One of the reasons is if one of those 30A breakers were to trip it would leave the other half of the circuit to carry more current than it would normally be safe for it to handle. <S> Sure you might say that if the second breaker circuit saw a current overload then that breaker would also trip but this is not always assured. <S> A 30A breaker is not going to instantly trip at <S> say 30.001A. Whatever operating margin that second breaker would allow continued current to flow to the load overrating the 30A conductor on that half of the circuit. <S> So do this right and install a 60A breaker and new wiring suitable for 60A circuit. <A> The issue isn't the breaker - that's the easy part - it's the wire. <S> If the wire is only sufficient for 40A, there's no way around that. <S> If you ran two 30A breakers in parallel on that wire, it would still be overloaded, and you'd have additional code compliance / safety issues detailed in another answer. <A> Nope. <S> The EcoSmart 11 goes back to the shop, and you get an EcoSmart 8 and a low-flow shower head. <S> Simple as that, if you are not willing to upgrade the wire. <S> The root problem is the wiring in the wall is too small to be safe at 60A. <A> In addition to (and because of) all of those technical reasons, it is illegal to do what you propose.
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You can run heavier loads on a wire by increasing the voltage with transformers, but that is not likely practical in your situation.
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Neutral wire going into panel has ~120 volts on it I know there are threads about open neutrals, but wasn't sure if this is a different case with it being in my panel rather than outlet or switch. Can I assume there is an open neutral somewhere or could it be something else? Where should I start looking? Would the break or loose connection be between the panel and first outlet or could it be anywhere in the circuit? We noticed this when swapping a breaker in the panel. <Q> If you have a neutral wire removed from the neutral bus bar in your panel it is possible to see 120VAC on that wire if the circuit breaker for that circuit is turned on and there is a load connected to the circuit and load device is also turned on. <S> This picture will help you see how you can measure the 120VAC on the neutral wire: <A> Working as intended. <S> The ordinary loads on the circuit are "pulling up" the disconencted neutral up to 120V. <S> You are preventing electrons from returning to their source, so they are queueing up waiting. <S> The voltage pressure behind this is 120V. <S> The loads aren't reducing the voltage any, because of Ohm's Law. <S> E = <S> I <S> x R Voltage drop across the load (E) = <S> current being flowed (I) <S> x effective resistance of load (R) <S> Because you have disconnected it, current flowing is 0. <S> E = 0 <S> x R E=0 obviously. <S> Since voltage drop is 0, you see full line voltage there. <A> The neutral is the return for the power if disconnected it will rise to the voltage supplied. <S> When you see a spark that is powering the load that is energised. <S> I would find the breaker that is powering the ungrounded conductor normally black wire and turn that off <S> and you probably won't see a spark but possibly still a phantom voltage until the wire is back on the buss. <S> The voltage would be normal with power and a load on the circuit some place.
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The disconnected neutral means that no return current is flowing in that circuit but with a connected load it is possible to see the 120VAC through the load when when measured. It could be a phantom voltage induced from running in close proximity to other live conductors but phantom voltages don't usually spark when grounded.
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Can I operate a well pump with no pressure tank by using the breaker as a switch? Working on my cabin. Have a drilled well about 100 feet away (maybe a bit more, uphill). 1 inch black PVC well pipe comes into dirt crawl space, pier construction, under cabin. I brought it upstairs so only 10 feet is exposed in crawl space. Wrapping heat tape today on well pipe. I don't have the pressure tank and such set up. Any reason I can't just power up the well for now and turn it on and off with breaker, then have a pipe with water that comes out ? Thanks. <Q> Not really. <S> You don't want the pump running if no water is moving. <S> You'll wear it out. <S> The point of a pressure switch is to prevent just that, and the point of the pressure tank is to reduce the frequency of pump startups (along with stabilizing pressure during usage). <A> As isherwood noted, never run the pump unless the water has somewhere to go. <S> Also, running the pump for only a few seconds at a time is probably not ideal. <S> If you're pumping out through an open pipe into some sort of large receptacle (e.g. a 5-gallon bucket or larger), that's probably fine. <S> (I chlorinate my water, so <S> my well pump feeds an open pipe that empties into a 120-gallon tank. <S> I'd guess this draws somewhere between 5 and 60 gallons in a "cycle". <S> The pressure tank is fed by a secondary pump in the tank.) <A> It won't hurt the breaker any. <S> All modern breakers are rated for use as switches.
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You can do that if you only turn on the pump when you're consuming water.
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electrical - Basement stairs 3 way switch with 2 lights Can anyone help with a solution? I have a 3 wire coming from a smoke detector in the basement into a switch at top of stairs (3wire providing the hot) and from that switch it feeds two light fixtures with 2 wire.How do I install another 3way switch at bottom of stairs to control those two lights without affecting the smokes because it's clearly on the same circuit. Thanks, much appreciatedJames <Q> I can't make sense of what you have going on but, the smoke detectors are simple black and white to each of them in the house and the red involved in the smokes is just a signal wire to turn them all on if one goes on. <S> And yes that picture is a 3 way switch. <A> I can't make sense of what you have going on but, the smoke detectors are simple black and white to each of them in the house and the red involved in the smokes is just a signal wire to turn them all on if one goes on. <S> That being said the, aside from the line and neutral wire you can largely ignore the smoke detectors. <S> And yes that picture is a 3 way switch. <S> It's okay to use the hot and neutral front the SDs to power your light but not the red one. <S> The red wire in the SD circuit is a signal wire. <S> So you need to add your 3way according to the image and then pick up hot and neutral from the SD circuit. <S> You just need to pull one 3 conductor cable to the second 3 way and connect it like this. <S> Disconnect the red from the SD cut the bare copper and wire nut it off. <A> Untangling the smokes <S> What happened is that a /3 cable got run from the smoke detectors to the switch box, but with the red wire capped in the switch box as the light switch should not be connected to the interconnect wire. <S> Then later on, when the 3-way was disconnected, the homeowner was wondering what to do with the "extra" red wire, and hooked it up to the switch as "all the wires should be hooked up", in his mind at least. <S> However, that's not how it works. <S> With the breaker off, take that red wire out of the switch and cap it off with a wirenut once again (you may need to tape the nut on to get it to hold). <S> Now, you won't have to worry about any issues that could be caused with your smoke detectors by the light-switching arrangement. <S> What you'll need to do is run a switch spur from the existing switch to the new switch <S> Once you have the situation with the smoke detectors sorted, run your /3 cable between the old and new switch boxes. <S> The ground wire in the new cable ties to a grounding screw in the old box (since it appears to use screws on a backstrap for grounding instead of the normal scheme) and to the grounding arrangement in the new box, while the black wire from the existing /3 <S> cable nuts to the white wire <S> (taped black) in the new /3 cable instead of being run into the switch, and the red and black wires in the new /3 cable connect to the brass screws (use the screws please!) <S> on the existing 3-way switch. <S> While you're here, move the black wire from the /2 cable from the backstab to the black screw terminal on the switch. <S> In the new switch box, tape the white wire black and connect it to the black screw on the new 3-way switch. <S> The red and black wires then land on the brass screws of the new 3-way. <S> Once you're done with both switch boxes, then you can button everything up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy!
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In these pictures you can see the proper way to connect SDers and 3way switches That being said the, aside from the line and neutral wire you can largely ignore the smoke detectors.
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Mounting Ethernet wall-plate in a solid wall I have an Ethernet cable running through a small hole in a solid concrete block wall. I want to cover the hole with a plate : Do I need a mount/bracket or can I just screw in the plate? A bracket will require a much large hole. <Q> Nothing easier. <S> Remove a knockout from the back of the box, and line it up so the wire comes through the middle of it. <S> The cover plate you linked is designed to fit to a 1-gang box. <S> I would go for either a $1 handy-box, or a Wiremold surface conduit box, depending on the aesthetic you want. <A> With the Ethernet cables no box is needed since the wall is solid block a set of low voltage wings won't work. <S> but it would be legal. <A> Surface Mount Box Get a surface mount box. <S> As with a wall plate, make sure it is up to the spec. <S> you need (e.g., Cat 5e or Cat 6). <S> Plenty available at a big box or Amazon . <A> If you don't have a masonry bit just use any junky bit and drill the two small holes a little bit bigger than your screws. <S> Put a toothpick in the holes followed by the screws. <S> Done!
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Install any sort of electrical 1-gang junction box on the surface of the wall. You may need to make the hole slightly larger so the plate will sit flush with the wall when you attach it
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Switching wiring from one transformer to another I am considering getting a Nest Hello doorbell. The requirements state: Nest Hello needs to be powered by wires delivering 16 - 24 V AC, and at least 10 VA (in North America) I had a brief look at the electrical panel, and I see that there are two transformers The one on the left (with red, green, yellow wires) is a 16V-10VA transformer. The one on the right (with black and white wires) is 10V-5VA. As far as I suspect (and I haven't confirmed yet), the right one is the one that is likely used for the doorbell. So obviously using that with Nest Hello won't work. My question: do I need to get a new transformer to replace the existing 10V-5VA, or can I just move the black and white wires over onto the left transformer? <Q> So even if you can move the wires and power the NEST with that transformer, it is possible that (a) the combined loads of the two systems may be too much for the transformer, <S> as it is rated at exactly the value recommended for the NEST by itself, and (b) there could be some unexpected interaction between the two systems - i.e., one switching on/off might somehow induce a problem into the other one. <S> Transformers are cheap. <S> A quick search finds them at around $10 on Amazon, and you may be able to get one in a regular store (which has overhead but doesn't have to build in the Free Shipping to every little product) for less. <S> Just make sure it is UL Listed as one side of the transformer is connecting to 120V AC. <A> Just search 24v plug in transformer there is usually a receptacle by the electrical panel and you can use it for the plug in transformer. <S> Very easy. <S> No need to go into the panel. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwim8N3_o8PgAhWUW4YKHT4zAO8YABAgGgJ2dQ&sig=AOD64_1fkgjEftgWpuxK-u5OL4KaoDlvgw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjRt8z_o8PgAhVnqlkKHZ7WCpYQwg96BAgLECI&adurl= <A> You don't need to guess. <S> You can test. <S> If you temporarily disconnect the wire(s) on one terminal of a transformer, it will break whatever that transformer is powering. <S> You can then go search the house for what broke. <S> Putting the wire back will fix it, obviously. <S> Once you know what those things power, the answers become a lot easier. <S> Obviously if it's the 16V 10VA transformer, you should be good to go.
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The other transformer is for some other system - another doorbell, an alarm system or (small possibility) HVAC.
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Can I use #8 copper to replace a #6 ground wire? I need to replace the ground wire that runs from the panel to the rod embedded in earth. it looks like the existing wire is 6 g. i'm having trouble finding that gauge and wonder if I can use 8 gauge instead. <Q> Depends on the local code. <S> Instead of dropping to 8 you could go bigger, assuming 6 gauge was to code in the first place. <A> I don't believe it is a good idea for a DIY to replace a large conductor with a smaller conductor. <S> Since it was probably installed by skilled labor who have experience in such things and there are many reasons why they did what they did. <S> See Chris Taylor's comment. <S> Also I am having a problem understanding why it would be hard to find a supplier who doesn't stock both a #8 and a #6 solid wire ground conductor since both are common and cost is nominal. <S> In fact I would believe that most suppliers would rather stock a #6 than a #8, since a #6 covers more situations than a #8. <S> Try looking at any big box or local hardware store and see if the can supply you with the same size conductor. <S> Good luck. <A> There are requirements in NEC Table 250.66 that stipulate minimum size for the grounding electrode conductor (GEC) based on the size of the service conductors. <S> The table shows that #8 is too small if your service conductors are larger than #2. <S> Also NEC article 250.64(B) requires that if the GEC is smaller than #6, it must be in conduit or cable armor for protection. <S> Be careful when working on the GEC. <S> There are additional rules that apply, and there can be unexpected hazards - do not assume that wire can't zap you.
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As mentioned in another answer, you should be able to find 6AWG very easily. In general, you can't replace a wire with a smaller wire unless you're certain that the smaller wire satisfies the code requirements. So if your service conductors are #2 or smaller and the GEC is in conduit, you can use #8.
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Exposing Beams in existing ceiling I am planning to remove drywall ceiling and expose the beams. The area is above kitchen and family room. There are quite a few recessed lights and fans. What considerations I have to bear in mind when I do this in terms of home value and sellability ? <Q> You say the room is above the kitchen and family room. <S> Does this mean the room is on the top flor? <S> If so, you could be exposing attic insulation. <S> Beams used for concealed construction is often of a lower grade and may have large or missing knots, checks, etc. <S> Often roofing nails will penetrate the roof sheathing and you’ll need to cover the roof sheathing and nails. <S> (When the drywall is removed, you’ll need to “deal” with the nail holes too.) <S> Of course you’ll need to reroute any electrical, heating ducts, drainage pipes, etc. <S> Beams with holes drilled for electrical wires, etc. will need to be patched. <S> Or, you’ll need to create a design scheme that is rustic so the holes don’t matter. <A> Is it an exterior ceiling as in does it have any insulation? <S> Are you expecting the beams to look appealing? <S> They most likely will not. <S> Are you prepared to spend a bit of money to get minimal return. <S> If it's done right, exposed anything is in fashion or trendy. <A> After considering all the above and other factors, I am inclined to say that this may not give expected return. <S> The room is on first floor and their is second story above. <S> ( some of the points I did not mention in my question ). <S> The joists which are currently concealed may not be appealing meaning more work to make them presentable. <S> Most of the pictures I see for exposed beams are for vaulted ceiling - which is not the case here. <A> Why? <S> There's likely just skinny ceiling / floor joists to see, and all the wiring for the lights & fan, and all the other stuff Lee Sam's answer mentions. <S> If you just want it to look like there's big thick wood beams on your ceiling <S> that are 4 or 5 feet apart, you can just buy fake plastic ones and stick them up there. <S> They are surprisingly expensive though, Home Depot has a 4-3/8 in. <S> x 2-1/4 in. <S> x 13 ft. <S> Modern Faux Wood Beam for $183.97 now, but does only weigh 7 pounds <S> : It would be a lot cheaper to buy a real 5x5 wood beam, cut it in half, and attach it to your ceiling, but the weight might be a problem. <S> This wood weight calculator says a 6x6 by 12ft pine beam would weigh 91 pounds. <S> But cut in half would help, and hollowing it out some would help too. <S> So another potentially cheaper idea is to use a 5 in. <S> x 5 in. <S> x 8-1/2 ft. <S> Ashland Red Cedar Composite Fence End Post <S> , it's currently $70.63 and weighs 31 lbs, but it might not look as good: <A> Sheetrock (plasterboard) is a good firebreak. <S> Kitchens are quite a common place for fires to break out. <S> If the space above the kitchen is habitable, you don't want to lose that firebreak. <S> In the UK, all ceilings (among other structural elements) must have 30 minutes fire-resistance. <S> This is usually insured by using 12mm plasterboard. <S> (Your property may not be affected by UK building regulations, but it is almost certainly affected by other, similar, regulations. <S> Also, the fire risk exists even if there is no regulation.)
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If you remove the plasterboard, you will have to provide the fire-resistance some other way. Ceiling joists are much closer than beams and it may not give same appealing look as beams ( which are spaced 4-5 feet or even longer). It may not boost value but to some people it's all the rage. It's easy to re-sheet before a sale if it doesn't turn out well. Plus I will have to have do entire first floor.
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Stainless steel nails for roof? Stainless steel nails for roofing is ~$1K premium. Assume that the commercial roof (self-storage building, with sloping roof) is on a Florida island, but not on the beach. What questions do I need to ask to determine whether it is worth the premium? What can I expect as the incremental benefit of stainless nails? <Q> 2014 <S> Florida Code: <S> Section 1506.5 NAILS - The corrosion resistance shall meet ASTM A 641, Class 1 or an equal corrosion resistance by coating, electro galvanization, mechanical galvanization, hot dipped galvanization, stainless steel, nonferrous metal and alloys or other suitable corrosion-resistant material. <S> Stainless Steel <S> - Made of type 316 stainless chromium-nickel steel with molybdenum which icreases corrosion-resistance, improves pitting resistance and increases strength at high temperatures. <S> These fasteners provide the maximum in corrosion protection. <S> These would be ideal in your part of the country considering the salty conditions. <S> Very defined ribbing in the shank which provides maximum protection in high wind conditions. <S> Cost averages at about $11.00 per pound. <S> Hot Dipped <S> Galvanized <S> - These are steel nails immersed in melted zinc. <S> The zinc coating is much thicker than standard electro plated steel nails. <S> The steel is manufactured with a ribbed shank, but the hot dipping fills in the grooves which reduced the strength of the ribs. <S> Cost averages at about $5.00 per pound. <S> Electro Galvanized <S> - These are zinc plated steel nails. <S> The zinc is not nearly as thick as hot dipped galvanizing. <S> These nails are often not even recommended for outdoor usage. <S> They usually have a smooth shank which will result in a lot of nail pops. <S> Cost averages at about $2.25 per pound. <S> Is it worth it to pay more? <S> The better the fastener, the more likely they are not to fail in extreme weather conditions. <S> All of these nails meet the required criteria. <S> I would suggest either stainless steel or hot dipped galvanized. <S> The electro galvanized are okay for felting and roll roofing but not really a good choice for shingles. <S> Note: Costs are based on current metal prices and will change over time. <S> You can always expect stainless steel to be the most expensive. <S> The hot dipped will be usually at about half of the stainless cost and the electro galvanized is usually a little less than half that of the hot dipped. <S> You get what you pay for when it comes to nails of all types. <A> I have roofed many homes on the west coast and we used hot dipped galvanized nails, when thinking about pay back for stainless I find roofs in the coast area fail more often from the harsh conditions high winds and blowing sand eating comp roofing long before the nails even start to rust. <S> Remember you should not see the nails they should be under the shingles even on the ridge there should only be visible nails on the last one and here these are required to be covered we usually use a dab of roofing tar. <S> So ask what is the life expectancy of the roof for your area, then the life expectancy of the galvanized nails compared to stainless to know if it is worth the extra <S> I would say it's not worth it <S> but your area is warmer and that may have more of an affect than the Pacific north west. <A> Remember, every time you strike a galvanizing nail <S> a piece of the galvanizing is chipped off the nail where it’s struck...the head. <S> The head is what keeps the shingle tight to the roof and from blowing off. <S> Blow off is the number 1 reason for roof failures. <S> The nail does not need to be “exposed” to corrode, (I.e.: fog, driving rain, etc. <S> all contribute). <S> I live in a “high corrosive” area <S> and we always use stainless steel nails (hand driven or power driven). <S> Roofing warranties are “pro-rata”. <S> As the nail corrodes and the nail head deteriorates, the warranty is less and less. <S> So, when a 25 year roof blows off in year 20, you’ll get 4/25th <S> the original cost of the shingles (not labor) of the THEN cost of shingles. <S> (Can you imagine what the cost of shingles will be at the new price in 20 years?)
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Stainless steel nails are worth the extra cost.
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Found mismatched breaker and wiring while replacing kitchen outlet in older house I have a few experiences wiring outlets and lighting but still am a novice. We have a 1941 2BR house in the US. A duplex outlet had chipped plastic on one of the outlets where the ground prong inserts. I wanted to replace this outlet, but discovered some old wiring that is not to code today. I am looking for an improvement on the situation, knowing in 2-3 years we will do a complete remodel in the kitchen with a professional. The outlet to be replaced is currently in parallel with a hard wired garbage disposal and a 9.6 Amp dishwasher plugged into an outlet tucked behind it. All this wiring is 14 guage NM, except one stretch from the junction to the outlet is 12. This 14 gauge wiring also includes the connection from the panel to the junction, as well as the hardwired garbage disposal. The circuit is on a 20AMP tandem breaker and shares the other switch with the outlet serving the washing machine. The washing machine wiring is not labeled, but could very well be 14 guage as well. Also, I realized we have an old refrigerator on the washing machine outlet as well. The panel is 100amp. Before realizing the wire issues, I planned to put a 20amp CGFI outlet in parallel with the disposal, then feed the dishwasher outlet off the CGFI outlet. While the outlet is not on the countertop (it's on the side of a lower cabinet), I thought it'd be good to get the dishwasher outlet protected. However, is there even enough room for an outlet, dishwasher and disposal on one circuit? Should I just remove that cabinet outlet? Also with the 14 guage wiring, I am not sure what to do. Use a 15amp cabinet outlet until the remodel in a few years? Re-wire from the panel to the kitchen w 12-2? Rewire all wiring in that circuit to 12-2? Rewire washing machine too? Separate the tandem breaker? Thanks in advance Edit: Is this panel overloaded? I'm counting 130 on left and 165 on right. Shouldn't it be below 200 total? Edit2: The washer was wired with 12 gauge, so I moved the 14 gauge wire to the new 15amp breaker. The number of spots open waa actually only the bottom 4 on the left. The top two were where the main power came in. For newbies like me, the Cuttler-Hammer boxes were bought by Eaton, so I bought a breaker by Eaton labeled CH for under $9. The dryer wiring is definitely bigger than the 30amp wiring, which is definitely bigger than the 12gauge. It looks stranded, but I didn't look too closely. As for the dryer needing lower amp breaker, that is to be determined. <Q> I'd add a new 12AWG homerun from the panel to the junction box <S> What I'd do here is put a new 12/2 homerun in from the existing 20A breaker on the circuit to the junction box where the 14 and 12AWG wires are split, then connect the wires in the junction box by size as well as color (12AWG black to 12AWG black, 12AWG white to 12AWG white, 14AWG black to 14AWG black, and 14AWG white to 14AWG white), save for the grounds which all connect together. <S> At that point, you can take the existing 14/2 homerun off the existing 20A breaker in the panel and land it on a new 15A breaker fitted in one of the open slots on the bottom left -- Eaton CH breakers are widely carried by big-box stores and supply houses across North America. <S> (If you need to splice some extra 14AWG onto the end of the homerun to make it reach, go ahead and do so with a wirenut -- splicing in a panel is safe and Code-compliant, even though some ignorami misinterpret the Code that covers this to say otherwise.) <S> You can then fit a 20A GFCI to the 12AWG (20A) circuit to protect the dishwasher and receptacle. <A> On the breaker panel being oversubscribed, that's not actually a problem; they're supposed to be oversubscribed because not every load will be on at the same time. <S> As far as balancing the sides, actually sides work quite differently than you'd expect. <S> This answer illustrates it. <S> You have to count alternating rows, and count a 2-pole breaker as being in each row. <S> That one in the upper right is not a 2-pole, but the linked answer discusses what it is. <S> Both its breakers count as in the same row. <S> That is an excellent industrial grade panel, and I would keep it especially since you seem to have some spare space. <S> The only problem I note is a 40A breaker allegedly for a dryer. <S> In particular, dryer wires are usually 10 AWG, and 40A would overload them. <A> Panel capacity is not based just on the ratings of the breakers plugged into it, meaning that you don't simply add up the numbers on the handles. <S> There is what's called a "diversity / demand factor" that is applied based on knowing that not everything it going to be running at full capacity all of the time. <S> It's not an easy subject for the average DIYer, but it's highly unlikely that adding one more 20A branch is going to be a problem here. <S> Think about it <S> , you are not actually adding LOAD, you are spreading the same load out among more circuits. <A> The kitchen will need 2 20 amp circuits to comply with current code the dishwasher and disposal can not be on these circuits so that means another circuit if not 2 there. <S> Current code also requires the laundry to have a 20 amp circuit, so if you want to get a jump on the remodel <S> these are some updates you could do now. <S> With any 14 gauge wire in the circuit you need that circuit protected by a 15 amp breaker but with the loads listed 15 amp will probably start tripping so you may want to start on a few of the circuits now to make your home safer.
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But as mentioned, 14ga wire cannot have a 20A breaker protecting it. Unless your dryer is very unusual, it should be a 30A breaker.
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Can I extend #12 wire on a 15A circuit with #14 wire? Okay, so here is what I got. I have done a fair amount of replacing switches and outlets but this is my first time adding outlets. I have a 15 amp breaker in the box running a couple of lights and outlets in my basement. I want to move one outlet and add 3 more to the series. The outlet at the end of the stream is a 20 amp outlet, and it looks like it has 12/2 wire attached to it. I want to know if I can add 14/2 wire to finish adding the outlets, or if I need to continue the 12/2. <Q> You can extend the circuit but it is bad practice to put #14 awg wire on a circuit that originates with #12 awg wire. <S> For example; the reason is because someone tosses a mini fridge on the circuit and now the breaker trips, going back to the panel you many years later or the next owner sees #12 wire and installs a 20 amp breaker not knowing or remembering there was 14 in the run. <S> I have actually found this exact change of events on several occasions over the years. <S> 12 awg is not that much more than 14 awg so it is best to continue with 12 awg , <S> if you go cheap make sure to label the wiring in the service panel as connected to #14 , but even that is a bad practice compared to running #12. <A> I am not an electrician, but I think this is the "book answer": <S> A quick googling tells me that 14-gauge wire is rated for 15amps. <S> However, if this were my own project, I would not be happy with the book anwswer, I would want even more safety-factor. <S> I would continue the 20-amp rated line and outlets, and keep the 15-amp breaker controlling it all. <S> This has the effect that the outlets and the lines in your walls will stay nice and cool; the 'bottleneck' of the circuit is the 15-amp breaker itself which is exactly what you want. <A> I would investigate further. <S> If there is any #14 wire, it must be 15A . <S> It's entirely possible <S> the guy wired the circuit (or the whole house) with #12 - that's what I would do - and then some home inspector told him he needed 15A circuits in bedrooms or similar nonsense. <S> That's not true, you can wire all #12/20A if you really want to.
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So since you have a 15-amp breaker controlling this circuit, you should be safe to use 14-gauge wire. If it's all #12 wire, then I would stay with #12 wire, and then you would be able to upgrade the breaker to 20A. This can result in a fire especially with back stabs in use and the smaller wire size. Map the whole circuit.
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Is it safe to use this dimmer on LED bulbs? I have a question about dimmer switches for LED flood lights. My kitchen has six floodlights on a Lutron toggler dimmer switch, model AY-603P. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/pages/SupportCenter/support.aspx?modelNumber=AY-603P&&SECTION=Documents Up until now I have had fluorescent lights in them. The lights needed replacing so I ordered some new ones, however, I accidentally ordered these LED bulbs instead... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HXK16H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The LED bulbs I ordered are dimmable so I decided to try them out and they seem to work just fine on my dimmer switch, no buzzing or flickering. My question is... Is this safe? I had read that I should only use LED approved dimmer switches with LED bulbs. My dimmer model does not say that it is LED compatible, the manual for the Lutron AY-603P dimmer switch says that it can be used with halogen and incandescent lights, it doesn't say anything about LED lights. Are there any electrical risks to using LED bulbs on a this type of dimmer switch? Any commentary guidance would be welcome. Thanks! <Q> Nope From this LED compatibility guide on Lutron's site , the following output. <S> To avoid overheating and possible damage to other equipment, do not use to control receptacles, fluorescent lighting fixtures, motor-driven appliances, or transformer-supplied appliances. <S> That's it. <S> It's not "not saying" about LEDs, it's saying very specifically about LEDs, since it allows only incandescent and halogen (which are incandescent). <S> Open up "See Aridani/Toggler model numbers", and open up "Dimmers" (the only category), i.e. here , it lists several categories and the results in each echo the above. <S> Welcome to the world of off-label usage. <S> Which means UL has not tested this equipment for this usage . <S> It might work, might not, might get magic smoke, it's all on you. <S> So the ultimate answer to your question is, shrug ... <A> I don't think anyone can advise you with certainty if this is a good idea, except maybe the manufacturer. <S> That said, yes, this is safe provided <S> the LED lights are rated at 100 watts or less each. <S> Worst case scenario is the bulbs will fail sooner <S> then they would be expected to. <S> My guess is that this is fine to do if it works, but if there is annoying flickering you should drive the dimmer on full until you can get a replacement. <S> There are 2 reasons for my answer - ( <S> Assuming the total load is less then 600 watts, ie the wattage in actual watts the dimmer consumes, not the "incandescent equivalent brightness - - and as you are using LEDs thats a fairly safe assumption) <S> The load is less then the dimmer is capable of handling. <S> This means it is electrically safe, in as much as you are not going to have heat buildup which the dimmer can't handle. <S> Mains rated LED bulbs have circuitry in them to handle dimming. <S> Depending on the manufacturer this circuitry can be quite different. <S> If the circuits are not compatible with the dimmer, it could cause them to not work correctly or fail early. <S> The LED dimmer <S> I have has a setting inside it to make adjustments depending on load. <S> My guess is that this is true of most LED dimmers, and this is needed because LED loads can be way lower then incandescent loads. <A> The normal problems with led's is they draw so little current that many dimmers cause them to glow and or strobe, with 6 your load may be enough that you don't see any problems like you <S> may with only a single lamp on that dimmer.
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If the led lamps are dimmable and are working they will be fine. Further, The service manual you link states clear that CAUTION: Use “AY-” or “TG-” models only with permanently-installed 120 V incandescent or halogen fixtures.
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Screw Sizes for Electrical Connection box lids Am having to install covers to several different types of electrical connections boxes in my house. Some are round, blue ones and some are a grayish tan with corners rounded. None of them have cover screws in them, so I am having to go buy screws to attach the covers. What type and size of screws are need for each type of connection box? <Q> They should basically be labelled as electrical box cover screws, and you can find them in all kinds of versions: long/short, metal/plastic, and different finish colors. <A> I maintain a supply of #6-32, #8-32 and #10-32 (which is a fine thread) in my electrical screw bin. <S> Code requires a -32 thread or finer for grounding screws, because a standard steel junction box has a metal thickness such that -32 will give enough thread engagement to be secure. <S> -40 would be allowed; -24 would not. <S> By coincidence, NC (National Coarse) thread sizes are 6-32 and 8-32, and NF (National Fine) is 10-32. <S> And that is why this tool exists. <A> I will attempt to answer but, Could you provide photos, <S> your description almost sounds like wire nuts both made in tan and blue. <S> I think you are talking about cutthler hammer panels the gray/tan <S> but there are a large number of different manufactures of the blue ish covers. <S> load center cover screws are not standard screws. <S> They have a larger head, some have a fine pitch like Siemens ects2 or Square D S106 then almost wood screw look for Eaton LCCSCS. <S> These are closer to #10 size with a large head #2 square drive or flat blade screwdriver and the first 1/8" is not threaded to get the screw in the hole. <S> I know quite a few electrical inspectors and home inspectors that look for the correct screws this is why I provided the part numbers of the main ones I keep spares of.
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Most hardware stores I have been to had a specific electrical screw section in their fastener area.
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What to ask an Electrician when upgrading a service and adding circuits for a kitchen remodel I have a Federal Pacific Panel and I read that I need to replace ASAP. I’m getting some bids from several electricians. Can you please help me learn what I need to ask? In addition to replacing the panel I plan on remodeling my kitchen. I’m plan to include a double oven and microwave. What should I ask the electrician? This is a condo unit in San Jose , California... with approx 789 sq ft Right now my total amperage is 100. Thank you! <Q> You shouldn't have to ask anything . <S> Simply provide an outline of your plans in diagram or list format. <S> Any competent electrician should be able to infer your needs from there and ask any simple clarifying questions. <S> If there's any confusion at all, find a better electrician. <S> This is pretty basic stuff for a professional. <A> Get as many panel spaces as you <S> can <S> However, this is penny-wise and quite pound-foolish, as it's much more expensive and laborious to have to replace a panel that filled up than it is to simply be able to pop a breaker into a spare slot, land your homerun, and call it done. <S> As a result, I would be insisting that the electrician put in a 30-space (or better), 100A/125A (or 200A <S> if you can't get the slot count you want in 125A bussing) <S> loadcenter. <S> This way, you won't have to worry about running out of space. <A> How many spaces can I get? <S> Coz you got a fever and the only prescription is more breaker spaces ! <S> I have seen so many panels in this forum where someone has a 32-space <S> and it's wedged solid. <S> You cannot have enough panel spaces. <S> Some panels advertise "20 spaces/40 circuits". <S> That's smoke and mirrors, they are relying on double-stuffing each breaker space. <S> But these days, almost every new or remodeled circuit needs AFCI or GFCI, and those breakers take a full space. <S> Consider only the "spaces" figure. <S> Now some things particular to homes in rarely-freeze urban California. <S> Heating infrastructure is modest, with many homes being ductless and using an Empire wall/floor furnace or electric heat as the only heat . <S> So it's not uncommon to have five 240V breakers (10 spaces) just for heat. <S> House values are insane, and many homeowners are in hot pursuit of the best resale value. <S> Which causesa lot of remodeling, and that tends to be deluxe. <S> Wiring demands are in proportion. <S> You can have 4 circuits in a bathroom (floor heat, other fixed loads, 2 receptacle circuits) or 4-5 receptacle circuits in a kitchen. <S> High disposable income leads to more gadgets. <S> Atoms are the new bits, Techshop went bankrupt, and that means wood shops with 240V tools, 2 breaker spaces per tool. <S> due to conservation, Californians love on-demand water heaters and electric or plug-in hybrid cars. <S> Interest in this at the Federal level has slacked off due to the political redshift, but not in California. <S> Conservation also drives a lot of solar, so 2+ more spaces for that. <S> Tesla PowerWall. <S> ?? <S> ? spaces. <S> Can I get a 100A main in this 200/225A panel? <S> Any panel remotely big enough will have a 200 or 225A backplane. <S> And most likely a 150-225A breaker. <S> You'll want the big panel and change the main breaker for 100A if that's what your service is. <S> The big main panel will also greatly simplify any future power service upgrade. <S> Keep in mind many "service upgrades" amount a new meter only. <S> They know what your service drop size is, and they have the smart meter tell them if your usage actually increases enogh to need a bigger service drop. <A> Older panels had low amps because they didn't have to account for central air and modern appliances. <S> You would probably want to ask for a quote to replace the panel and to run additional wiring for any new appliances you want to add. <S> Here's a good source to get you started.
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Most of the time, if you simply let an electrician have at a panel replacement/upgrade, they will use the smallest (aka cheapest) panel that will accommodate the number of circuits the house has, along with any circuits that are being installed at the same time.
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Circuit Load - With addition of LED recessed and cabinet lighting I’m renovating my 1984 kitchen and I'm worried about exceeding the maximum load on the circuit. I'd like to add recessed lighting and above/below cabinet lighting as well. I know that 12 devices are permitted per 15A circuit (light outlets; plug outlets) and that switches and junction boxes are NOT to be counted. With my new setup I think that I will end up with 11 devices total for that 15A circuit. My modifications are about: Adding - Under cabinet lighting using 7 LED Power Strip (linear) lights via one dimmable switch Adding – Below cabinet lighting using 5 LED Power Strip (linear) lights via one dimmable switch Adding – 4 Recessed LED Slim Lights to Bridges in between my upper cabinets via one dimmable switch Replacing – 1 Ceiling Track Lights with 6 Recessed LED Slim Lights via one dimmable switch Replacing – 1 Ceiling Track Lights with 3 Recessed LED Slim Lights via one dimmable switch For the 4 above modifications, I counted that as 4 Devices to be added to my circuit. I already have 7 devices on the circuit, for a total of 11. I`m not sure if this the right way to calculate this and I was concerned that it might not be permitted by the Ontario Electrical Code? Here are the specs for the devices: Under cabinet LED Power Strip: Qty: 7 at 4.3W each (total of 30.1 Watts) using a 36W LED driver for a 120V to 12V – DC conversion Above cabinet LED Power Strip: Qty: 5 at 3.1W each (total of 15.5 Watts) using a 24W LED driver for a 120V to 12V - DC conversion 4 Recessed LED Light (9 Watts each - 120V) – a total of 36 Watts 6 Recessed LED Light (9 Watts each - 120V) – a total of 54 Watts 3 Recessed LED Light (9 Watts each - 120V) – a total of 27 Watts Please note that every item above has its own dimmable Switch. The rest of the circuit is used as below: 1 light outlet in Dining Room (hanging type) via a dimmable switch 1 outdoor light via an indoor dimmable switch 2 plug outlets in dining room 2 plug outlets in a room above the kitchen; one outlet used for computer/printer, about 14 hours a day I do understand the circuit loading rule of 80%, i.e. 120V x 15A = 1800W x 80% = 1440W but I was concerned is if there were specific rules in the Ontario Electrical Code, i.e. specific calculations for LED Recessed and LED power strip lighting restricting me in making these additions. Also, I recall reading something about the known load (i.e. lights) and the unknown load (i.e. plug outlets), not too sure if applicable here (??) Also, read about a 1.1 factor, i.e. multiplying the wattage by 1.1 for drivers. I’m not sure I understood that one and if applicable to my case (??). Any help would be appreciated. Thank you! <Q> I'm from Toronto <S> and I not aware of any special considerations for LEDs in relation to code. <S> I am aware of lots of cheap Chinese copys on the market. <S> If your light costs 8 bucks, don't use it. <S> The drivers are crap and brightness varies quite a bit. <S> Even the colour is off a lot of the time. <S> I'm actually writing this in my garage under a very yellow set of 5000k 3" pots that I couldn't use for a customer because I realized they were crap. <S> Each one has a different colour temp. <S> In terms of draw on the circuit, they use almost nothing. <S> Some of them can even be powered with batteries for several hours. <S> Check the draw on your printer if it's a laser sometimes they can draw quite a bit. <A> TLDR, first the outlet limit is for commercial and industrial locations NOT residential. <S> With that said there is NO way led lighting will over load your existing branch circuits in fact power companies have given huge rebates where I work to replace lighting that was upgraded 7 years ago to fluorescent now again to led's current covering 70% of the fixture cost. <S> You need to look at the wattage of the new lamps a 16w led. <S> Will replace a 100w incandescent if one of the newer lamps this means you could have 5 of these in the same place as a 100w old school incadesent lamp and still use less, in my opinion led lights are brighter and many areas I work including my own home <S> have been upgraded with more perceived light at much less energy usage, in most cases by 1/2 the power with more light because of technology. <S> Not just my opinion but why would power companies pay to do this? <S> Because they don't have to keep upgrading services its a fact. <S> My area my power actually gave me a "free new electric high efficiency water heater <S> but I had to install it. <S> Great deal similar to LED's <A> Consider having a limited number of DC power supplies that each supply as many lights as possible (remembering that voltage drop is a much bigger issue for low voltage). <S> Being in Canada you have a statutory limitation on how many outlets you can have on one circuit. <S> (the US doesn't, except for local amendments). <S> The DC power supply counts as one outlet , <S> no matter how many loads it supplies on the DC side. <S> Feed the lights from it. <S> Use a proper battery recharger instead of individual power supplies. <S> Now, when the power fails, the lights still work. <S> Along with possibly the Internet router, a few device chargers, some TVs, a Roku box, and the refrigerator if you upsize the system enough and add an inverter*. <S> You can then add solar panels to extend duration during a long outage. <S> * <S> They used to make special 12V refrigerators specifically for off-grid solar homes, which were hyperinsulated. <S> They were so low volume as to be practically bespoke; so prices were over the moon. <S> Meanwhile, Energy Star happened, and with the benefit of million quantity and therefore a large R&D budget, mainstream builders were able to highly optimize efficiency beyond what a small scale builder could possibly do. <S> So now, even with the efficiency losses of an inverter, plain off-the-shelf refrigerators have proven to be the "way to go".
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Another slick thing you can do with DC lighting is fit a deep cycle battery somewhere in the house.
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Plug too hot to touch after using toaster I've used a toaster in the same outlet for a few years, today when unplugging it immediately after use I noticed the metal prongs on the plug were uncomfortably hot. The outlet was hot too, but quickly cooled down. I took the face plate off and couldn't see any damage to the outlet or wires, other than a lot of dust back there. Using the same toaster in a different outlet didn't cause it to heat up, it's just this one outlet. I'm in the US and these are the original outlets in a house that's 35 years old. Should the outlet be replaced? Also I assume the heating up comes from the wires making poor contact with the screw terminals on the outlet, so would it be advised to strip the wires back a bit to expose fresh copper when putting in the new outlet? <Q> Should the outlet be replaced? <S> Yes. <S> I am an intensely curious person and I absolutely worship the scientific method, but even I would refrain from trying to find out exactly what the problem is here. <S> It is a bad idea to use one's domicile infrastructure as an experimental laboratory. <S> The heat could be coming from a poor connection between the wires and the receptacle, or a poor contact between the receptacle slots and the plug tines. <S> But whatever the problem, it's certainly confined to the receptacle. <S> Just bin it. <A> Replace It and Do It Right <S> Truly diagnosing it would take as long or longer than simply replacing it, and it isn't worth the $2 that a basic replacement will cost. <S> GFCI <S> In a 35-year old house with original wiring, you most likely do <S> NOT have GFCI circuits or receptacles installed. <S> That will cost you more than the basic $2, but it is well worth it, particularly if some day you have a problem with that toaster where the toaster is the problem instead of the outlet and your hands are wet or you (foolishly, but people do it) <S> get toast stuck and try to get it out without unplugging the toaster first, etc. <S> If you currently have power chaining from one receptacle to the next, which is quite common (and perfectly safe), and the existing receptacle has one set of wires on each side of the receptacle, you can't simply copy the configuration to a GFCI receptacle. <S> On a GFCI receptacle, one side is LINE (must be connected to incoming power) and the other is LOAD (for connecting to additional receptacles). <S> If you are not 100% sure then you should connect all the blacks (hot) together and all the whites (neutral) together and use a pigtail (a short piece of matching wire) for each one to just the LINE side of the new receptacle. <S> Screw Terminals Use the screw terminals on the sides rather than the "back stab" connections in the back. <S> Much easier for a novice to make sure you have a good connection and less likely to have a problem in the future like the problem you have right now . <A> With screw terminals, not backstabs? <S> Check the torque on the screws. <S> I bet one is loosey goosey. <S> If not, something is wrong with the receptacle - probably spring contact with the plug prongs, or something cracking. <S> Don't fool around with it; this is either a narrowed current path or series arcing, and either one can start a fire. <S> A quality receptacle is $3. <S> If the copper is pitted (from arcing) or corroded, you might clean it up with a file, but I would not worry too much. <S> Let the torque do its job. <S> On GFCI, that is a good thing <S> but I would not impulsively slap a GFCI receptacle here without a bit of planning. <S> Especially do not slap any wires on the LOAD terminals without a good understanding of the kitchen wiring. <S> LOAD terminals are not thru terminals, they do something special. <S> GFCIs don't solve the problem you just had, they protect humans from shock. <S> AFCIs help with the problem you might have had, but they install at the breaker. <A> Yes you should replace the outlet but don't get a 98cent special get a spec grade in this case <S> you get what you pay for. <S> I have a withdraw scale that measures the force on the plug blades the cheapies even new do not hold as well as spec grade <S> and I believe this is the source of the heat.
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So unless you have upgraded your breakers to include GFCI, replace the bad receptacle with one that includes GFCI protection. Note that there is one possible complication with installing a GFCI receptacle. While you could argue about an absolute requirement for a straight replacement, the kitchen is one of those places where GFCI absolutely makes sense - simply too easy to have a serious safety problem that a GFCI will protect. I find older outlets the spring tension that retains the plug below spec. Since the toaster works OK elsewhere, the problem is somewhere in the receptacle.
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Soldering AC wires to this PCB I'm working on a DIY Mirror Touch frame and am on the final stages connecting everything. I have the issue where I was unable to find a deep enough aluminum frame and therefor have the issue where the power cable would protrude from the backside (see first image below and red line). I've managed to disassemble the DVI connector and reduce the protrusion there. For the power connector, I would appreciate support with soldering the Power adapter wires to the PCB - as I have no idea which solder point on the PCB should be associated with which wire (DC Live, Ground or DC neutral) . I would de-solder and remove the power connector on the PCB and solder the wires directly (and then add a good amount of hot-glue). <Q> I doubt that cable is carrying household voltage. <S> Use your multimeter to figure out which part of the connector on the cable is positive and negative. <S> Then you can desolder the socket from the board, cut the connector off the cord, use the multimeter to identify positive/negative in the cable and solder it to the circuit board. <S> If I had to guess, the two pins sharing a trace are probably positive, and the third pin looks to be attached to the ground plane and therefore probably negative. <A> Mains electricity is not a toy!! <S> Low voltage DC is a toy, which is how you got misled. <S> Mains will steal your girlfriend, wreck your car, cancel your fire insurance, burn down your house and kill you. <S> It is a completely different beast. <S> (It's a very slightly less psychotic version of mid-voltage DC, which made a serious college try to kill 3 astronauts the last time it was trifled with. <S> AC, at least, has a zero crossing that will often snuff arcs). <S> Anytime you get an urge to do something with mains electrical, put down the soldering iron (you'll never use it), come here and talk about what you want to do. <S> Humanity's best-practices at handling mains power safety (Code) are so refined that it looks easy, and that makes mains AC seem harmless . <S> As such, Code can seem stupid. <S> It's not. <S> I'm sorry to give you the finger-wag, but you specifically asked how to connect AC live, AC neutral and ground. <S> But you're in luck <S> That's a Barrel connector. <S> The weird lump in the power cord is not merely to annoy you, it's to knock AC mains power down to low voltage DC. <S> By the way, the reason so many manufacturers do that, the thing with the wall-wart, is it allows them to sidestep the bulk of the UL listing process. <S> They only need to clear the low hurdle for low-voltage DC machines, then they toss in a commodity off-the-shelf <S> wall-wart <S> that somebody else already got UL listed . <S> That's why wall-warts almost never have any labeling to say which equipment they go with. <S> that are also under 55 watts. <S> Your device probably falls under that exemption. <A> First off as pointed out in another answer none of those pins are for AC mains, they are all for the outputs of a power brick. <S> What I would do is first check <S> if the cable is visible asymmetric, if not use something (tippex may work nicely) to mark one side of it <S> so you can tell which wire is which after cuttin cut the connector off the power brick, then use the multimeter on continuity to work out which wire in the cable connects to which solder pad on the board.
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You only need to figure out how to convert mains to the correct low voltage safely (e.g. By simply using the power block that came with the machine), how to site the power supply (plugged into a nearby receptacle is pretty safe), and how to connect the wires. Mains power would never be on that because it wouldn't have the dielectric strength. It's probably DC voltage in the 12-24 volt range from a power supply brick. We'll run you through it the right way, that meets Code, will save your fire insurance, and will be safe. The Electrical Code has sweeping exemptions for low voltage devices under 30V (talking to you, NASA)
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Using 14 ga on part of a 20A circuit? I'm building an outdoor bbq and have a 20A circuit with 2 runs - 1 for outlets and 1 for lights. The outlets are done with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire inside 1/2" emc. The lights will be hanging pull lights (16 ga wire in the cord) and because it's a little cheaper and easier, I wanted to get power to the fixtures by 14 ga wire, also in 1/2" emc. Is this a no-no? The only thing on this run would be 5 lights, so very low load. <Q> You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. <S> But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. <S> You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) <S> so you have to stick to the rules. <S> 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it. <A> In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire. <A> The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. <S> And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC. <S> In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. <S> The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN <S> and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12. <S> If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. <S> The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. <S> Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.
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You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire. If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.
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Fencing backyard on the lower side of a retaining wall Trying to fence my backyard, so that the dog has some room to play and burn some energy, as well as joining us outside during gatherings. My backyard sits on the low side of a retaining wall, which slopes down from approximately 8 ft tall down to 4 ft tall. My original fence outline is shown in blue on the drawing below; pretty much was gonna use the wall as a side of the fence. However, last week I found out that my dog can jump up the portion of the wall that is only 4ft tall. Putting fence against the whole wall would add about 100 ft of fence, which wouldn't be cheap. Additionally it would cause a nightmare, if my neighbor ever needed to repair the wall. Thought about only fencing the 4 ft tall portion, but think that would look kind of weird... Any ideas on what to do here, so that I can keep the dog in the yard without sacrificing yard space or adding 100 ft of fencing? Thanks, <Q> Add some planter boxes or some other pleasant looking obstruction to the 4 foot section. <S> if you are not interested in planter boxes you could do something like a gas pipe railing <S> I'm a gas fitter <S> and I love the look of this stuff. <S> But it may be a little costly if you want dense coverage like in the photo. <A> I would get a wireless dog fence kit and start with the standard collar. <S> I have had great success with these and have kept hunting dogs on the property. <S> In one case I did have to get the "atomic collar" but with these simple units a loop in an area gives anything from warning beep to a pulse that makes them think twice about taking another step ( I did try this on myself and as an electrian I have gotten a few Zaps, this one kinda hurt but was a short pulse) <S> you can also make areas they can go through by twisting the wires. <S> I think these units are great and would be cheaper and not change the look . <A> It looks like you don't need fencing on the full length of the red side. <S> A little jog would be needed at one end (approximately the midpoint of that side of the rectangle).
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You could fence a little bit inside the retaining wall for the segment where the retaining wall is shorter.
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15 Amp GFI breaker trips in main Breaker panel I have one 15 amp GFI breaker in my main panel. We have two patio outlets, the garbage disposal and one outlet in each of the two bathrooms all wired common. Whenever we have company and women are using hair dryers at the same in each bathroom the breaker trips. Would it be OK to replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp so it doesn't trip anymore when they are drying their hair? <Q> No! <S> The goal of a breaker is to trip before the wiring starts a fire. <S> So, you would have to update wiring before you can think about changing that breaker. <A> A circuit is defined by its overcurrent protection (breaker) not the other way around. <S> The circuit you are talking about was originally designed to be a 15A circuit not a 20A. <S> What you really need to do is add two more 20A circuits, one for each bathroom. <S> Here's why. <S> Your circuit trips while women are using hairdryers in 2 bathrooms. <S> A standard hairdryer is rated 1500W on high. <S> 1500W*2=3000W, 3000W/120V=25A, that is 5A higher than a 20A circuit breaker. <S> So even if you were able to install a 20A breaker, there is a good chance you are still going to trip the breaker on that circuit. <S> You could do a few other things which might or might not be satisfactory, but in the end a substandard repair will render a substandard performance. <S> In conclusion do not change out a 15A breaker to a 20A without verifying that it is capable of being a 20A circuit. <S> If for nothing else, it is against the law and might cause a shock or burn hazard. <S> Sooner or later you are probably going to have to install two 20A circuits to each bathroom, so you might as well do it now. <S> Then you will be done with it and it will be legal and most important the women will be happy. <S> Hope <S> this helps and stay safe. <A> You can never "just up-size a breaker to stop it from tripping". <S> 15A and 20A breakers cost the same. <S> If it was safe to use a larger breaker, the builder would have already done it . <S> It wouldn't matter anyway <S> A hair dryer, like most heat appliances, is 1500W because that is the UL limit for such devices. <S> The 15A circuit you have is rated for 1440W continuous or 1800W peak. <S> The 20A circuit you want is rated for 1920W continuous or 2400W peak. <S> All of these numbers are well below 3000W . <S> No receptacle circuit can support two heat appliances. <S> That is a fact of life. <S> Upgrade the circuit <S> The only way to support dual hair dryers is with two circuits. <S> Code currently requires that bathroom receptacle circuits serve no load outside a bathroom. <S> It gives you two choices: one circuit can power receptacles only in any number of bathrooms (but you can see right now where that's a bad idea)... <S> That last one is the way to go. <A> No, don't up-size the breaker. <S> The breaker's job is to protect the wiring hidden inside the walls. <S> The installer chose a 15 amp breaker because that was the code-approved rating to protect the specific wire used in that circuit. <S> A higher-amperage breaker would put the wiring at risk of overheating and could lead to a fire. <S> There may be some other circuit near one of the bathrooms which could be extended to provide a new outlet in the bathroom. <S> That would allow the hair tools to operate on different circuits. <S> It would be necessary to add GFCI protection if this was to be done.
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If you increase the breaker limit without changing the wiring, the fire may start before the breaker trips. They need to be 20A circuits. Two hair dryers are 3000W. Or one circuit can power receptacles and other things only in one bathroom. With clever wiring in the right place, you can split the circuits into 2 or even 3 circuits.
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