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Would a transformer protect a 24V digital flow meter if it received 48V? I purchased a new water softener for the house. It has a digital flow metering device. It worked great for a few days and then stopped working. Long story short, I finally figured out that the outlet I plugged it into was for 240V instead of 120V (bought the house about a year ago so the previous owner obviously didn’t know what he was doing). The power supply for the water softener has a 120V to 24v stepdown transformer to power the digital meter. I’m assuming the water softener was getting 48V for a few days until either the transformer or digital meter gave out. I’ve corrected the electrical problem so now it’s time to get the water softener working again. Will replacing the transformer be enough or should I just order a new digital meter? $30 vs $300 so I’m hoping for the best case scenario. <Q> It's impossible to say. <S> It really depends on how the meter's internal power supply works. <S> Being electronic, obviously it runs on DC and not 24VAC. <S> They're just using that voltage because it's extremely common in North American homes, being used as control voltage for the furnace and there's usually an existing 24V transformer somewhere in the house. <S> Those transformers are cheap and common, by the way; I'm surprised you have to wait for one. <S> Any HVAC supply will have them, maybe even a hardware store or big-box. <S> So it must have an internal power supply. <S> If it's a switching power supplY, they open and close (switch) a gate, and on higher voltage they simply close the gate sooner. <S> (That is how many consumer electronics can auto-range from 90-264VAC). <S> So you can run switching supplies beyond max spec if their insulation is in good enough shape to handle the higher voltage. <S> Insulation is cheap to add to most components ( not electrolytic capacitors), so you have a fair chance. <S> If it's fried and you want to attempt component repair, start with the big caps. <S> None of this will fix anything else that was plugged into that 240V receptacle. <S> Putting 240V on a NEMA 5 120V receptacle is simply outrageous. <S> And needless - they make receptacles for that . <S> They look exactly like standard receptacles except they are keyed differently. <S> Every big box store and hardware store sells the receptacles and plugs. <S> Now if you found a NEMA 6 receptacle and altered your transformer to fit, that's on you. <S> But if the previous homeowner fit a NEMA 5 receptacle because he was too lazy and cheap to get the correct NEMA 6 at the hardware store, and his logic was "well <S> I know it's wired 240V <S> ", then he should have disclosed that in his disclosures, and he would've been written up for it and had to fix it, presumably by installing a NEMA 6. <S> If he did not do any of that, then he is liable for all your damages here. <S> I would go after him for it. <S> Not least, he sorely needs an education, because you bet he did it again to save $5. <S> This could have caused a house fire. <A> Really sorry that you were exposed to an improperly wired outlet and had to discovered it this way. <S> If you have already not done so you should take a meter and measure the other outlets in your house that the previous owner may have messed around with. <S> You could measure the transformer output when it is plugged into the proper 120VAC outlet. <S> If it reads out ~24VAC <S> then the transformer is probably OK. <S> I would expect that the maximum voltage ratings of the transformer were above those that it was exposed to in the improper operating scenario. <S> So it should be OK unless you noticed that it got extremely hot for those few days in which case I would recommend replacing it. <S> The digital metering unit on the other hand has likely not had a good outcome from being exposed to the 48V for an extended period of time. <S> Certain designs could have exposed much of the circuitry to voltages well beyond what it can survive. <S> On the other hand there could have just been a small portion of the circuitry that was exposed and failed but left the rest OK. <S> In this latter case an experienced electronics technician could possibly repair the unit by replacing just a few components. <S> You would have to weigh possible repair costs against the cost of a new unit. <A> The transformer will, to some extent, limit the voltage at the output, likely to more like 36V than 48V due to saturation. <S> Your meter may or may not have survived intact. <S> If nothing appears to be burned (use your nose) <S> it may well be okay. <A> I suggest you to get a 'switching' power supply capable of bearing 110 to 250V (similar to pc power supply) <S> so you just don't have to bother where you connect it. ' <S> Standard' power supply, that are essentially transformers, only get 'proportional' reduction ratio (so a 220V to 24V used on 110V circuit will make 12V and vice versa). <S> Anyway, in your case, it's possible you have destroyed your softener (instead of your transformer).
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It is not possible to know, without reviewing a schematic for the metering unit, if the unit was designed to work properly with a wide range of input voltage or not. Most well-designed products will have no trouble with a momentary transient but they may not be able to withstand continuous abuse.
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How to put telephone plate back to the wall I have this telephone plate in the kitchen and the backsplash tile is brand new. I don't remember how it looks like before. There were only two wires coming out. Now I don't want to cut the tile and insert a box. How to actually mount this back into the wall (now tile backsplash)? There is no way to screw in the plate. I am thinking about just superglue into tile somehow. Any advise? Thanks <Q> Raise it up slightly <S> so the wires are in the recessed portion. <S> I wouldn't think super glue would work well here. <S> Silicone may work but may end up looking messy. <A> The cover plate you're showing is intended to be mounted on top of an inwall box, ie; single gang box nailed or screwed to a stud. <S> As suggested, I'd get a masonry drill bit or tile bit of the appropriate size and use plastic molly anchors. <A> Superglue should work just fine. <S> It's a telephone socket so you're not going to be pulling stuff out forcefully ever. <S> Make sure to use just the right amount so that it doesn't drip <S> but it's still all covered!
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I would just drill two holes into the tile and use plastic anchors to face mount it to the tiles.
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Is it normal for a hammer drill bit to wobble? Last year I bought a Makita HR2470 for home use from German Amazon, because it had many positive reviews. Since then many negative ones appeared saying that the drill bit wobbles. There is also a user video on their site. It is an SDS-plus drill and I have an adaptor to use normal round bits too. With this I have put a ball pen in it, and touched to a paper when the drill was on, without the hammer function. It made a split pea sized circle on the paper. I also have a Bosch GBM 1600 RE normal drill. This leaves only a point on the paper, as expected. Recently I have made with the hammer drill + adaptor (hammer function off) holes in tile, and did not know why the tile was chopped around the hole. I have two questions. Is this a property of hammer drills, they are less precise or mine is defective? I actually sent it back, and now I am looking for a different model. Do you know any hammer drill without this problem? I understand if a more precise tool is more expensive than this. <Q> I have 3 or 4 hammer drills some combo units and 1 is just a large hammer / demo drill model. <S> None of mine have the wobble <S> you are describing brands I have <S> are hilti, dewalt and milwaukee. <S> For tile I would not use a hammer function but a standard drill and a diamond coated or carbide / grit coated bit. <S> I would think the hammer action will crack the tile, I am sure it would on most natural stone tiles as they tend to crack with a wet diamond saw. <A> My experience with drilling holes in porcelain tile is with a standard drill which makes a clean edged hole in tile, but is slow work. <S> Disclaimer: I have never used a hammer drill, but I think a hammer drill might be designed to wobble. <S> This would clear dust from the hole allowing faster progress in stone or concrete and prevent jamming of the bit in the hole. <S> EDIT <S> You don't drill into tile with a hammer drill. <S> See Drilling tile <S> To catch the drilling dust I tape a cereal box to the tile just below where I am drilling. <S> This allows me to use both hands on the drill. <S> After I get a hole started I switch to one hand on the drill and squirt water from a spray bottle on the drill and hole to keep the bit cool. <S> I have found that standard ceramic bathroom tile is easy to drill through with this system, but porcelain tile is still a challenge. <A> I have a Dewalt hammer drill where the hammering action can be turned on and off. <S> With the hammering action off, it's like any other drill. <S> With the hammer on, it does vibrate a lot more, but I can't say it intentionally wobbles. <S> Personally I have never used the hammer drill on tiles, only concrete. <S> My hand hurts just thinking about that thing. <A> Definitely not supposed to wobble in drill mode. <S> I'm going through this same issue w milwaukee sds with warranty. <S> Had a 21" but that got caught up in a tight space and ever since that it wobbles in drill only.mode luckily its fairly new and under warranty.
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A wobble makes a larger hole than the size of the drill which prevents jamming of the bit in the hole.
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Will walnut work for an office table? I am looking at getting a walnut butcher block table for an office because the dark color will work well with the existing color scheme. The maker offers a choice of "natural oil finish" and "varnique semi-gloss" whatever that means. However, I have never used walnut before. Are there are any gotchas I should know about with walnut? (like odor or allergic reactions) I currently have an oak butcher block desk and the only problem I have had with it is that where my arms rest on the edges of the desk there are dark spots that appeared after about 6 or 7 years of use. <Q> Much beautiful furniture has been made of Walnut over the past centuries. <S> I see no reason why it wouldn't be an excellent choice for your table. <A> Walnut trees produce juglone, which can poison nearby plants. <S> It's not generally a problem with the lumber since walnut's a bit pricey for making window boxes. <S> It can be an issue if you compost it and poison your garden. <S> Juglone also can cause foot problems in livestock bedded on walnut, so I'd avoid that entirely. <S> Walnut will also lighten rather than darken with age. <S> You'll need to brighten up that color scheme in a couple hundred years. <S> It's also soft enough that you probably want to avoid writing directly on it, the same as any wooden desk. <A> So whatever you finish your walnut with, I think you'd want it sealed. <S> If the maker's "natural oil finish" uses a hardening oil like tung oil, that would probably keep the transfer to a minimum, but I bet you still pick up a little of the dark oil if you rub a white cloth on it. <S> If the finish is sealed with wax, varnish, shellac, or polyurethane, etc. <S> , it would prevent that. <S> I don't know what "varnique" is <S> but I bet it's a semi gloss sealant, probably someone trying to make polyurethane sound more like varnish.
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I imagine you could check with the maker, but walnut oil is dark and you can stain your hands or clothes working with walnut.
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Can you add another stove to an existing circuit? Suppose you wanted to put a second oven next to the existing oven in your kitchen. Could you simply add a second receptacle to the circuit? Hypothetically speaking, suppose your stoves were a Kenmore 970-678534, and a C970-502123, and your circuit had a 40AMP breaker and I'm not sure what the gauge the wire is, but it's fat, much fatter than the dryer cable. Hypothetically. <Q> (A regular range circuit only has a single outlet, so it is governed by NEC 210.22 instead.) <S> Your 40A branch circuit could power either range, though, as a 13kW nameplate range comes out as 8.4kW of demand-factored load when you apply Table 220.55, note 1 to it, and NEC 422.10(A), paragraph 4 expressly permits the table 220.55 branch factors to be applied to household cooking appliance circuits. <A> Hypothetically, no. <S> Realistically, also no. <S> Legally, still no. <A> Based on your watt numbers, the breaker couldn't power one of those, let alone two. <S> A 40A breaker is good for 9.6KW at redline. <S> That won't cover even the smaller 10.6kw load, let alone the 13kw load. <S> The other one should use a 60A breaker (14.4kw) also with #6 wire. <S> You are not allowed to put two receptacles on a 40-50A circuit, nor can you put those receptacles on any other size of circuit. <S> Each will need its own circuit.
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Nope NEC 210.23(C) limits 40A and 50A multioutlet branch circuits in dwelling units to powering fastened in place (i.e. built-in) cooking appliances, not freestanding ones. I would say the one should be installed with a 50A breaker (12kw) and #6 wire, unless the instructions say to do something else, in which case follow the instructions. Each one will max out its circuit.
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Header question for newly created exterior basement door I have an 1888 Victorian. I have hired a contractor to create an egress exterior door going into my basement. Originally the door to access the basement was on ground level but we needed to dig down and move the door access point to the basement level for several reasons. I have always been told that an exterior door MUST have a header. It makes no sense to me why it wouldn't. My contractor tried to tell me that the door does not need a header because there is a window directly above the location of this new door and that window has a header so the basement door doesn't need one. Am I wrong about this? I am also asking because the concrete pad that was newly poured 3 weeks ago where the base of the door is has now cracked in 3 places. I think that he is wrong about the header and that the weight on the door is too much and has caused this concrete to fracture. Thoughts please? <Q> When you make a window or door opening, you will remove one or more studs in the door opening in the wall. <S> Since the door is stacked, aligned under a window above, the header for the window opening has already transferred the load above the window to the studs on the sides; the stud removed for the door probably wasn't carrying much load. <S> It was carrying the weight of the window and the cripple wall below the window, which isn't much. <S> Depending on the direction the floor joists, run, that stud was also the supporting the floor joists resting on the top plate above the stud. <S> I'd say if you have A doubled top plate above <S> the door is in Joists not supported by the wall with the door Just one stud removed for door opening <S> Then it's not likely you'll see any problem there. <S> But you'd normally put something there anyway, if only for a nailing surface for the trim etc., and to avoid debates about it. <S> In any event, I don't see how failing to install the header would lead to cracks under the door. <S> The door frame pretty much floats between the king studs. <S> If it was bearing any weight, it would probably deform and the door wouldn't open or shut properly. <A> Yes, a header is REQUIRED!!! <S> All the window header above your door does is to place the load above it on either side of the window. <S> The load is still there! <A> I should have clarified that I am dealing with structural masonry from 1888. <S> I just assumed that everyone would know exterior walls of victorian basements are brick. <S> Sorry for not clarifying this. <S> However, I did get my answer <S> and I was right. <S> The work was done completely wrong. <S> I've detailed how I know this below. <S> I met with a structural masonry professional <S> and he came and took a look at it. <S> What he discovered was, yes, all exterior doors require headers in Colorado. <S> However, more importantly, none of it was done correctly. <S> In fact, most of the job, door aside, was not done correctly. <S> The masonry expert said the door is bowed and it was starting to not close correctly. <S> (The contractor put a spreader in the door to try and hide this.) <S> The cracked concrete sill plate was caused by the weight as the load was not carried properly. <S> These guys literally cut the brick hole and placed a door jamb in. <S> No studs, no other framing on the side or above the door...nothing. <S> The jamb was affixed to these old limestone bricks with normal screws... <S> that's it. <S> The masonry expert said that 2 pieces of angle iron approx. <S> 3.5 <S> " X 3.5" X .25 <S> " X 48" laid in front of one another was necessary in order to properly carry the 3 courses of brick. <S> He said a 2 X 8 was needed on each side of the door opening and affixed to the brick via epoxy anchors with the angle iron resting on top of the 2 X 8. <S> He said a 3/8" gap was needed to allow for expansion and contraction between the brick and the 2 X 8 and between the door jamb and the angle iron above. <S> This expert spoke with my contractor and the contractor admitted he didn't know how to work with structural masonry. <S> So for the person who said, "there's something we aren't being told if a contractor is arguing otherwise. <S> " <S> No...there wasn't. <S> The contractor was an idiot plain and simple. <S> He thought he could get away with ripping off a woman. <S> I knew it wasn't done right. <S> He did not want to admit to me that he didn't know what he was doing. <S> It wasn't until I brought a technical expert in that he fully admitted he didn't know how to do the work.
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The header has to carry the load that was previously carried by the studs you remove, transferring it to the king studs on either side of the door. If the header is missing, the wall above the door opening may sag, the floor above the door opening may sag, but no additional load winds up on the floor around the door opening.
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Is it normal for GFCI receptacles to explode and burn? I noticed my tooth brush wasn't charging one morning and none of the plugs in my bathroom were getting power, I went down to the circuit box and saw a flipped breaker so I flipped it back and it immediately tripped again. I tried it once more with the same result so I started to investigate the plugs in my house to see if anything was obviously wrong. The external GFI on my deck had obvious signs of smoke on the siding so I disassembled the outlet and the entire back of the GFI blew out. Is that a normal failure mode? Could it be a manufacture defect / installation issue? There was obviously a lot of heat as the wire connectors appear scorched and the box is filled with a thick black soot. Do I need to worry about additional damage to the wires beyond what is visible in the box or can I just remove the damaged wires and install a new GFI? Time to call an electrician? Additional GFI Outlet Images <Q> I've never had a weather resistant GFCI go up in smoke. <S> Yes, they can be in a metal box, but they still should be marked WR ( weather resistant ) <S> - this means the electronics inside are coated to reduce the chances of moisture causing exactly what happened with your GFCI. <S> If it had shorted to the box, the metal screw would have arced and tripped the breaker. <S> If it had shorted on the load side, it would have tripped the GFCI. <S> But, in this case, enough moisture got in and the electronics shorted and let the magic smoke out. <S> Last item on the list is that it should have an in-use cover or an extra duty cover, that allows a cord to be plugged in with the cover protecting from rain. <S> In this case, replace your GFCI with a WR rated GFCI and add an in-use cover to greatly reduce the chance of this happening again. <S> In some jurisdictions the local ordinances require the outlet itself to be GFCI so it can be reset (not running cords inside because of tripping the GFCI in wet grass with an electric mower is the "why" the inspector told me). <A> Move the GFCI GFCIs have sensitive electronic components, as you found out the hard way. <S> A regular outlet does not. <S> If you can move the GFCI protection to an indoor location and then replace this with a regular receptacle, that would solve the problem permanently while still protecting against ground faults. <S> Two options: <S> Earlier in the chain. <S> Just make sure that you use line vs. load correctly so that this receptacle is protected (on load screws). <S> At the breaker. <S> If you have sufficient space in your panel, replace the regular breaker with a GFCI breaker. <S> That will protect the entire circuit. <S> As already noted, you should have an in-use cover on any outside outlet. <S> This will help prevent nuisance trips due to moisture, though it is not a 100% cure-all and therefore moving the GFCI inside makes sense in any case. <S> Based on additional comments: It appears that the bathroom receptacle already has GFCI. <S> If that is the case then (a) no need for a GFCI breaker and (b) need to check whether the outdoor receptacle (and any others in the circuit) is pigtailed to share the line connection or is actually using load . <S> If the outdoor receptacle connects via load <S> then it is already protected . <S> Open up the bathroom receptacle box. <S> If there are wires on both line and load , then wire up an ordinary receptacle in the outdoor location. <S> Make sure it works. <S> Then press the TEST button in the bathroom. <S> If the outdoor receptacle responds to the bathroom TEST button (i.e., when TEST is pressed, both bathroom & outdoor have no power, when RESET is pressed both bathroom & outdoor have power again) <S> then you do not need a GFCI on the outdoor receptacle because it is already protected in the bathroom. <S> Only one is needed but keep in mind that it protects "outward" - i.e., if the sequence is breaker->bathroom->outdoor then a GFCI breaker or a bathroom GFCI will protect bathroom and outdoor, but a GFCI outdoor will NOT protect the bathroom ( <S> though as we've discussed, you shouldn't put the GFCI outdoors anyway). <A> Except for cases you are pyrotechnist and it burned/exploded intentionally. <S> There is no shame to admit limited knowledge about electricity and call an electrician to fix the issue. <S> To be honest, this is the only sane way to go, unless you know what you are doing and why you are doing it bloody well. <S> Shame is when one does not admit lacking knowledge and sets own house on fire accidentaly. <S> Any receptacle, connection and device shall be tested for a proper IP code to its use. <S> Indoor receptacles are sufficient with code IP30 (protection against tools with diameter greater than 2.5 mm and no protection against water), for outdoor receptacles look for code IP65, IP68 for being sure. <S> Materials are usualy not the concern here - the interior shall be dust-free and dry and the parts are well insulated when dry and clean (IP00). <S> Your receptacle was IP30 at most - no dust protection and no water protection. <S> What happened to you was crossing the circuits within your receptacle by rainwater mixed with dust. <S> This is conductive enough to shortcircuit anything behind the receptacle while resistant enough to heat significantly. <S> As other sugested, move the GFCI circuit indoors and use common receptacle outdors. <S> The whole receptacle setup - box, receptacle and wiring - shall be code IP65 and more. <S> If you move the GFCI only your breakers will be down quite often. <S> The only improvement will be not burning the GFCI to ashes.
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If there are other receptacles as part of this circuit before this outlet (e.g., possibly the bathroom that is on the same circuit), replace one of those with a GFCI receptacle. This happens all the time if an exterior GFCI is not weather-resistant. Exploding and burning equipment is not normal at all.
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What is the advantage of a double pole switch over a single pole switch? I know that a double pole switch is used to cut off the current in both live and neutral wire simultaneously, but by using a single pole switch,if you switch off the current through the live wire, the current doesn't flow through the neutral wire as it is. Then why can't a single pole switch be used in place of double pole switch? <Q> On-off vs isolation switching In the UK, a single-pole switch is usually used to turn on and off a light or an appliance. <S> For example, current UK code requires a two-pole isolator for fire-alarm control-boxes and for high-power fixed-wiring (non-plugged) appliances such as isolation switches next to electric cookers and electric showers. <S> The issue is that, in case of a fault being investigated, the fault may have caused neutral to be broken or otherwise to be carrying a voltage significantly different from ground (earth). <A> It really depends on your application and the risk. <S> First, you are absolutely correct that severing one pole will shut off the appliance, however it will leave the appliance's internal parts "floating" at whatever the voltage is on the other wire. <S> If that is neutral, that is safe enough, barring a neutral problem. <S> For instance most countries have a way of supplying two poles for a higher voltage (240V in the US and Philippines, 208V in NYC, 220V in Brazil, 400V in most of the rest of the world) neither of which are neutral. <S> In those cases you want a 2-pole switch so the machine isn't left energized at the other voltage. <S> Another case is if there's a chance of neutral not being safe. <S> In that case you would want the maintenance shutoff switch to shut off neutral too. <S> Another case is when disconnecting a device with a neutral-ground bond of its own, typically a generator. <S> If you do not disconnect neutral, and there's a problem with neutral or ground in the panel, neutral could try returning via the generator's neutral wire, to the generator's N-G bond, back via the generator's ground wire, then back into the non-broken part of the main panel. <S> That could flow a lot of current through probably-thin wires to the generator, and remember, neutrals and grounds do not have circuit breakers , nothing would stop this until it set the generator or house on fire. <S> Even in normal times, this would play havoc with GFCI aka RCD units. <A> If the power tool is low amperage (3 or 4 amps) and double insulated (the tool came with single pole switch)it's not so bad to use a single pole switch on the hot/load/black wire. <S> (while the neutral/white wire is left connected straight through with no switch) <S> But if the power tool is heavy amperage (5 to 10 AMPS) and has a metal body (that YOU TOUCH while it's running ie <S> it'snot <S> double insulated) then it's safer to use a doublepole switch. <S> (If the tool came with a double pole switch) <S> This all applies to 120v single phase type power tools. <S> I have put a single pole switch in placeof a double pole on a 9.5 amp 120 v chop saw. <S> (temporarily and you have to wire it differently obviously) <S> Later I put the double pole back. <S> I thinkit's safer. <S> Seems like sometimes I could feel a littlevoltage bleed tingle when I ran the single pole. <S> (veryrarely only every now and then) <A> A double-pole switch is not specifically designed to open contact on a hot and neutral, although it could be used for that. <S> It is more often used to open contact on two hot wires simultaneously, such as for a 220 volt circuit that uses two hot conductors, or for two 110 volt circuits that each use a single hot conductor. <S> I am sure there are many other applications, and this is a simplistic explanation.
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A double-pole switch is used where you need to isolate a circuit for safety reasons during maintenance of the circuit.
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Can I run data cables in the same cabinet as a service panel? If the power panels inside my home are all enclosed (no exposed live wiring anywhere), am I allowed to route my data cables and coax to a router and (data distribution hardware) housed in the same room and wood back panel in which my power panel resides or do I need to house it separately? It is situated in a door sized cavity of 2 feet deep with a normal door to close it. There is about 4sqft of open space on the wood back planes on the bottom. I don't want to do work that an inspector will reject. I read all the codes and the relevant posts on this site, but want an honest opinion, preferably qualified. This is what I read . Thanks. <Q> In the same conduit, raceway, gutter or service panel, no, unless the entire low voltage circuit, and the involved appliances, are all built to mains wiring standard... <S> So for instance the Ethernet cable could not run in a power conduit, come out to an RJ14, and go to a computer in the normal way with a commodity ethernet cable, since neither the RJ14 jack nor cable is rated for mains power. <S> The problem they are concerned with is any random wires in the raceway shorting together, so suddenly there's 240V on your ethernet cable. <A> Yes, that is fine. <S> Some things to watch out for beyond the post you linked to: <S> Maintain the open space in front of any panels. <S> For example, don't use zip ties to hold your CAT6 cables to a conduit. <S> Don't use the same holes through studs, headers and wallboard as the current carrying wires. <S> Drill your own holes away from the existing holes. <A> According to CEI: No, but you can run wires in same conduits if data or antenna wires have an insulation rated for, at least, same as mains voltage. <S> (223V)
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Don't attached anything to the existing wires, panels or conduit. In the same decorative wooden cabinet, yes. IOW, don't put anything in front of the panel.
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Will my US 120v power tools work on UK 240v 50Hz? I may be moving to Scotland for my wife's job. Will my power tools and other basic electrical equipment (like fans and lights) work on 240v 50Hz? <Q> Probably not, but check the specs. <S> A lot of consumer electronics - e.g., computers, TVs, etc. will work fine on a range of 90V - 240V and 50/60 hz. <S> That is because they are designed to work that way and a key is that most of those electronics actually work on DC power. <S> So they build in a power supply that converts high voltage AC to low voltage DC. <S> Frequency doesn't matter (within reason) because the result is DC = <S> no frequency at all. <S> Voltage doesn't matter (within reason) because there are components that can handle a wide range and 90 -> 5 or 240 <S> -> 5 is a big change either way. <S> However, motors are a different story. <S> If a motor runs directly on AC then it will be dependent on the voltage and the frequency in a number of ways, and rewiring (or possibly even redesign) is needed to run correctly (and safely) with 2x voltage and/or 50 instead of 60 hz frequency. <S> Check the specifications or the nameplate and you should be able to figure it out easily enough. <S> Battery operated tools are a little different. <S> Since they run off batteries, the only issue is the charger. <S> Battery chargers are often designed to handle 90 - 240 & 50/60, just like laptop computer power packs. <S> But check the specs to be sure. <A> I also moved to Scotland from the US (since moved back) and faced the same problem. <S> Most of my electronics were not designed to work on 240/50Hz and so we had to buy replacements. <S> However for my desk top computer, I bought a very good convertor that plugged into the Scottish 240/50Hz and gave me a very clean 120/60Hz. <S> The converter was a good one and cost me several hundred dollars (pounds) but was certainly cheaper than a new computer. <S> The cheap convertors ( PS Scotland was wonderful for us, my first son born there! <A> Look at the kit the UK requires at work sites <S> In the UK, cheap consumer tools are <S> 240V and quality commercial tools are 110V. <S> Say what? <S> The UK requires very special power on work sites , to reduce the risk of electric shock to workers. <S> This is 110V <S> (really) with a center ground . <S> That means each "hot" leg is only 55 volts away from earth. <S> This is provided by special transformers that workmen hook up at the work sites. <S> They are readily available. <S> Sadly, they did not use NEMA 5-15 as their receptacle type, so you will need to buy or make some cheater cords to get you from UK construction sockets to USA NEMA 5-15. <S> Motors that run at constant speed, such as for a compressor, may not be happy running 50Hz, and may run hotter. <S> Less of a problem on handheld power tools. <S> Cheat-plugging a 120V or 110V appliance straight into common UK wall 240V is right out, unless the tool's instructions or labeling specifically say that's OK. <S> Avoid hokey-dokey cheap Cheese adapters which advertise 110V conversion or claim to fit.... <S> Buy stuff like that from reputable local shops, Wickes is the lowest you should stoop.
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The frequency is a particular issue with motors, so even if you use a transformer to go from 240V to 120V, the motor may still not work correctly, leading to it running too slowly and/or premature wear.
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How can I frame around a service panel in the corner of the room and maintain clearance? I'm refinishing my basement (1952 CMU masonry duplex) and need help figuring out how to frame around the electrical box that was replaced before the we put up the insulation. Unfortunately, the panel's location is in the corner of the living space. So far I've gotten my 2 layers of 1" XPS up and working on framing my walls by stick-building. Given how the panel was mounted by the electrician who replaced it (i.e. on plywood), we are planning to have it recessed behind an access door. I'm concerned about the best way to frame around it to maintain the required lateral working space. Once I frame the other wall and account for drywall, the panel would be on the far left side of the working space which would extend to about half-way between the two studs visible on right. One thing I'm not clear about is how to interpret the working space requirements. My plan was to add a stud at the edge of the insulation and frame around the 2x4s, though not sure how to work around those wires. Before people ask, the XPS is cut to the edges of the plywood the panel is mounted on and is taped along the edges. Appreciate the suggestions in advance! <Q> Looking at that photo you would need 30 inches measured from the left side of the panel to the right. <S> With the cover door able to open 90 degrees I would not expect it to get flagged. <A> Convert the panel to flushmount. <S> It's the only way to be sure. <S> Since the clear working space called for by NEC 110.26(A) starts at the front of the equipment, as specified in NEC 110.26(A)(1): <S> (1) Depth of Working Space. <S> The depth of the working space in the direction of live parts shall not be less than that specified in Table 110.26(A)(1) unless the requirements of 110.26(A)(1)(a), (A)(1)(b), or (A)(1)(c) are met. <S> and thinning the wall down in the area of the panel is not an option, the only remaining option is to remount the loadcenter as a flush-mounted unit. <S> This requires unmounting the loadcenter from the backerboard, replacing the backerboard with insulation and re-doing the flashing tape there, framing around where the loadcenter will go using a 2x3 for the "back" stud and a 2x4 for the "front" stud in a 2-stud corner configuration on the left and an odd sized bay with a standard 2x4 stud on the right due to the loadcenter requiring a specific sized bay, and then remounting the loadcenter cabinet to the studs left and right so that it will be flush with the drywall. <S> You'll need to pull the old cable staples and replace them with fasteners suitable for attaching the cables to foamboard, by the way. <A> Best thing is to not try to make a panel access at all. <S> Make a closet around the panel with a full door. <S> Good luck!
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Your cover door would need to be hinged on the left side of the panel (if allowed) my current area allows decorative covers but a label has to tell what is behind the panel and it can not be locked. Distances shall be measured from the exposed live parts or from the enclosure or opening if the live parts are enclosed. Much less hacky than trying to invent some finished panel access.
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Is it bad to close furnace dampers in order to balance temperatures seasonally? I have a two story home. As such, it's always hotter on the second floor than the first floor. As advised by many articles and how-to videos out there, I usually close the dampers in the ducts leading to the first floor in the summer, so that the cold air from the air conditioner is forced to the upstairs vents and then sinks down to the lower level, and vice versa in the winter so the warm air rises. I'm trying to get a straight answer on whether this is ok or bad. I've now seen many other articles that suggest you should always leave all dampers and vents open all the time because you could cause damage to your furnace by creating unexpected blockages. But most of those articles seem to be focused around the idea of closing off airflow to a room in order to save on energy costs. That is not my goal. I'm not closing off any rooms by shutting doors or anything. I just want the air to start in one spot and naturally move up or down in order to maintain an even temperature throughout the house. So should I be able to adjust those dampers and registers? Or should I be concerned that it will damage my furnace? FYI, the house was a new build in 2012, with a high efficiency furnace and AC unit. UPDATE: Even with the air filter out, it was still shutting off. Had a friend in the HVAC industry take a look. I wasn't there at the time, but according to my wife, he suggested that the furnace is too big for my house and that my duct work is smaller than it should be. So it was having trouble carrying the heated air away from the burners fast enough (which She said that he turned down the gas valve a bit and increased the air flow (not sure how). Been a couple days and it hasn't shut off yet. <Q> However, what’s more likely is air flow will increase in the ducts/grills that have not been restricted. <S> When this happens it could create a “whistling” noise because the ducts are too small for the amount of air being pushed down the duct. <S> Partially closing one damper will cause more air to flow to other ducts/grilles. <S> So, yes, you can adjust your houses temperature in various rooms by changing (opening/closing) dampers. <A> Too long for a comment. <S> I agree that closing too many it can cause problems. <S> When installing main trunks in multi story homes I like 60/40 in the main trunks in summer 60% upstairs for cooling and 40% downstairs. <S> In winter 60% down and 40% up. <S> Having these 2 simple marks on 2 dampers makes the seasonal adjustment quick and easy. <S> By adjusting the main trunks each room on the level stays at the correct flow rate because the individual rooms were not messed with. <S> The problem I have seen with closing down too many vents has been on electric furnaces more than gas in my experience but damage to both is caused by blocking the flow. <S> What happens with low flow, the elements over heat and trip the safety <S> then they cool and the cycle starts over. <S> This shortens the life of the elements and can cause the thermal snap switch to fail making it look like the element is bad. <S> But other things happen with low air flow on gas units. <S> Low air flow can cause the heat exchange / fire box to crack. <S> I have seen flex lines blown off and trunk lines split open when too many vents were closed. <S> So these are the reason closing them too much is a bad idea. <S> Depending on how the duct work is routed you usually can reduce the air flow significantly but don't fully close them. <S> This is when back pressure can start breaking things. <S> Reduced airflow can also be caused by dirty air filters putting a larger load on the blower as Lee Sam mentioned. <S> So to recap, unless your system was designed to fully close zones keep each one open at least 10% and don't reduce the total flow below 90% unless you have a variable speed unit that can compensate. <A> The system was designed to be used with all registers and ducts wide open. <S> Any change in that will effect operation. <S> Close too many dampers and you will start tripping out on high limit
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Yes, if you close too many dampers, you can overly restrict air flow which will burn out your furnace motor. When we design heating/cooling systems, we try to balance the air flow so more air can go where there is greatest heat loss/gain. This will reduce wear and tear on the entire system.
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240v baseboard heater on a 120v circuit using a step up transformer ? I have been wondering if this is possible or not? If you wanted to run a 240v ac baseboard heater on 120v ac couldn't you just just use a 120v ac to 240v ac step-up tranformer? I already know what happens if you would run a 240v baseboard on a 120v circuit, the baseboard heater would draw 1/4 the power. <Q> Heaters are cheap . <S> There'd be no reason to do this! <S> An electric heater is one of the simplest appliances in the world -- so it is inherently very low-cost. <S> It's not cheaply made, it's just simple enough it doesn't cost very much to make one. <S> It will be cheaper to buy the right heater than adapt the wrong heater. <S> I imagine you got this thing <S> gifted to you, and you have no idea how much heaters actually cost. <S> Go find out; the typical baseboard heater is a Cadet, and they are around $50 for a big one. <S> You can't buy a step-up transformer for that, you are in peril of spending $150 to change the voltage on a $50 heater. <S> Don't do that lol. <S> Now if you're stuck with the common receptacle circuit in your house, Those circuits are not magic . <S> They cannot carry unlimited amounts of power, in fact USA circuits are particularly limited to a measly 1440W, or just one of those portable heaters. <S> So it wouldn't matter if you got a big baseboard heater that is 120V, <S> you couldn't hook it up anyway . <S> Contrast with a properly wired 240V circuit, which can carry 3840 watts, or almost 3x as much, that is why baseboard heaters are mostly 240V. <A> I'll assume you are just trying to avoid running a new wire to the baseboard heater. <S> However you'd have to feed the transformer from a big single pole OCPD and suitably sized wire. <S> I can't see a situation where it wouldn't be easier to just put in the 240V breaker, even if you were out of space in the panel and had to install a small subpanel. <A> You could, but it wouldn't be at all cost effective <S> The problem with stepping up the voltage is that you're stepping down the current in the process, as a transformer can't put any more power out than it gets in. <S> As a result, you would need to run wire into the transformer suited for twice the heater's nameplate current rating, meaning that you would need much more costly wire atop having to pay for a transformer. <S> This is quite uneconomical compared to simply running 240V in just about all circumstances. <A> ONLY IF your circuit is used only for heaters, AND all your heaters are 240V AND none of those require neutral connection AND the heaters are hardwired you could re-purpose neutral wire as second live replacing the breaker with a double pole one.
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You could use a transformer at the panel to step up the voltage from 120 to 240 and run more power at the same current on the same wire.
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How to test if both Hot wires are disabled without Neutral? Supposed the breaker is off but the left side is still hot (let's say breaker defective). Won't it work if you measure the terminal in the hot right and load left like in the following picture? Why won't it work (if it won't work)? Original message: I'll connect two chair lugs to the screws in the above 125A main breaker feeder cooper. If I shut down the main breaker, how do I check both hot wires are gone without any neutral (we don't use neutral since all our equipments are 240v)? A defective breaker may only disable one of the hots. If I use a multimeter, where will I put the other lead on for each? <Q> That's what a non-contact tester is for. <S> You test with it before and make sure it is showing voltage and then flip the breaker and make sure it is clear. <S> It should not be the only thing you do before working on potentially live wires/equipment, but it provides a very useful double-check. <A> There are several ways to test to verify if the line(s) are dead, first non contact tester. <S> Test the incoming line to verify the tester is working, then check both legs after the breaker , now verify the tester is still working on the hot side of the breaker if both legs show dead and both tests on the hot side showed good it is safe. <S> , Using a volt meter, verify the meter is working on the hot side, check leg 1 to ground, check leg 2 to ground, just to be crazy check leg 1 to leg 2. <S> If all show dead verify the meter is still working. <S> Now you know how to properly test with both kinds of meters. <A> You can check against PE (if present) or metal water pipe because almost all distribution systems are referenced to earth. <A> Between the line and the load on the breaker. <S> You want to test if the breaker disconnects both of its load terminals from its line terminals. <A> I can't say for sure since I am unfamiliar with the electrical service in the OP's location. <S> I believe at the utility transformer <S> it's the same as the common US system, 240V line to line with a grounded center tap, <S> so 120V line to ground at the transformer. <S> However there is no service neutral / grounded conductor, not sure if there's a grounding electrode system, and no equipment grounding system. <S> I believe the line to ground voltage in the house would be less than 120V due to ground resistance. <S> Most non contact voltage testers depend on a ground path through the person holding the tester. <S> They may be less reliable with a system with no grounded conductor on the service / GES / EGS. <S> I'd definitely recommend that the OP back up the NCVT with readings from a solenoid tester or other voltage tester / meter. <S> I'd check line to line and line to ground on both sides of the main breaker before and after opening the breaker. <S> If any reading is other than expected, it's a show stopper. <S> There are a lot of other things you need to know to work safely in the panel, I am just addressing the OP's question about testing. <A> Just test line to line. <S> Anything other than zero means there is a problem and if it reads less than the prior reading, it means there is eather a cross connected circuit somewhere from another source, or one pole of that breaker is not opening, but it is reading through a load somewhere.
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First test the load side with the breaker closed and record that voltage, i.e. 240V. Then open the breaker and test it again, if both sides are open, it would read zero.
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Architect drawing home addition by hand I am planning to expand master bedroom and hired an architect to draw the plan. What I learnt is that he drew diagram by hand and not using CAD. He is an old guy. But I am wondering if I should be concerned now? Given this age, everything has to be exactly accurate and submit as CAD diagram for the city permit. Does it matter? <Q> I have worked in construction in Indianapolis, and this is my experience: <S> Hand drawn drawings will not be rejected by the permit authority. <S> I drew my own plans for the update to my home: <S> Hand drawn, in pencil. <S> When submitting the plans, I had to be ready to answer more questions than usual. <S> I have submitted plans that were drawn by engineers for commercial construction (yes, some hand drawn!), and they were received and stamped in seconds. <S> For my plans, the receiving person looked at the drawings and did not see an engineer stamp. <S> At that point, they asked if I had a general contractor, to which I answered that I was overseeing the construction directly. <S> They asked about greenway requirements (amount of grass compared to building/concrete covered area) to which I pointed to the water drainage page. <S> They asked about where the spoils (dirt being excavated) would go, and how that would change drainage <S> and I explained that all spoils were moving off-site to a commercial greenhouse nearby. <S> They asked about the new footers under the house; how they stick out four inches toward a neighbors yard where the setback distance was already too close (according to current standards) and claimed that I needed to change that. <S> I stated that current setback fulfilled what was required by regulation because the current setback was grandfathered in, and that they should look at the eave of the house to see that the building line was the eave line, not the wall line, so the four inches of footer would still be under eave. <S> This went on for 15 minutes. <S> All-in-all, I had construction know-how to answer these questions and in the end they had no grounds to reject it. <S> I just warn that in some areas you may have to be ready to defend hand-drawn plans that are not engineer signed. <A> People have been building houses by hand-drawn plans for centuries (and without any drawn plans for a lot longer) before CAD became common in architecture. <A> If your city required a CAD drawing to issue a permit, you'd have an issue - but that's not likely; they probably just want a drawing. <S> Many places require that you submit the drawing in an electronic format rather than on paper, but you can scan the hand drawn drawing into a PDF and submit that. <S> - you would want an electronic format, it would be far more efficient. <S> But that's not a concern with a small addition. <A> I did an internship at an architect when I was in high school, many years back when computers were far less common and while they had one it was used only for calculating structural analysis, CAD didn't yet exist. <S> So everything was hand-drawn. <S> Their measurements and plans were exceptionally precise. <S> And if you need more precision, you just draw to a different scale. <S> In the end, those walls will be made from bricks and wood or some other physical material, and they are less precise than the computer calculations anyway. <S> There is no logical reason why a well-done architectural hand-drawing would not be acceptable. <A> People have focused on the permit process, but there is another issue, which is consistency between the various parts of the plan. <S> If you model the house in 3D CAD and print plans from the model they will all be consistent. <S> If you draw plans by hand or in a 2D CAD program it is a manual check to make sure the various pages of drawings are consistent and changes get incorporated in all the places they should. <S> Your architect is used to this problem and will do a review, but it would be good for you to do so as well.
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I learnt the technique and talked to those architects. Hand drawn drawings will be more scrutinized by the permit authority. No, a proper plan will include all measurements and you can be accurate enough by hand to create a to-scale plan. You haven't been seeing the plans every day and may find some issues the architect overlooks. They asked about whether there was an increase in water drainage to the city to which I pointed to the fact that the house footprint didn't change. Computers might give you the illusion of higher precision, but you can actually measure and draw well within the limits of the physically possible by hand. If you were doing a much bigger job, and you wanted others to collaborate on the drawings - not just read and work from the drawings, but make changes, add in mechanical / electrical / plumbing etc. If they do good work at a reasonable price, I'd rather have a hand drawn plan from them, than not so great work or an high price in state of the art CAD. I don't see any down side to letting this person work in the medium that they prefer.
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Weird smell from electrical disconnect box when appliance is on I have a 240v, 48amp (60 amp breaker, 6 awg NM-B wire) car charger outside that has a disconnect inline and last night I noticed a really weird smell in the room the wires to out to the charger from. I tracked it down using my nose to the disconnect box (or the wires leading to/from it) and at this point it was pulling 48 amps because the car was charging. I inspected the area and didn't notice any melting but since it was raining I didn't want to open the box outside to look in. I lowered the amps to 32 via the car and the smell appeared to dissipate and this morning the smell was gone. I also noticed a small humming sound from the disconnect outside at the same time. It's a cheap disconnected: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD27E%7C27-8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT._DEVICES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034238981%7c58700003943782709%7c92700031956831784&gclid=Cj0KCQiA28nfBRCDARIsANc5BFA1htTEn9RLX9o9ot_7y6wyo4sEOySek6WKOL1FbEizxiqgrYyPfHgaAqE_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds But it's rated to 60 amps. Maybe something is lose, what would cause a smell/buzz? What should I check first? <Q> Both of the things you report - the smell and the hum - are very likely indications of a bad connection or bad contact in the disconnect. <S> I'd leave that disconnect off and if possible turn of the breaker for the circuit until it can be checked. <S> You'll probably wind up having the disconnect replaced, hopefully the wiring can be re-terminated without replacing it. <A> One thing I find with larger wire sizes even though you torqued the lugs <S> the wire is probably still loose. <S> When I tighten larger sized wires I take them to torque specified then back off and take them down again while watching the screw position if I get more of a turn <S> I back off and tighten again. <S> This allows the wires to shift and get a true torque. <S> On larger wires I grab the wires after torquing and wiggle them this allows them to move around and then re torque. <A> NEC Article 625.42 states that the equipment rating of an Electric Vehicle Charging System shall be rated continuous duty. <S> So 48 x 1.25 <S> = 60A <S> For me that is a little too close too maximum allowance of your circuit to make me feel comfortable with it. <S> Since your circuit is already installed, the best thing we can do with it is to use what is existing. <S> Also it wouldn't hurt to check your connection at the breaker. <S> Then if you need to replace the cheap (and yes it is cheap) <S> AC disconnect and replace it with a minimum 60A standard NEMA 1 disconnect, maybe even a 100A, and maybe even a heavy duty. <S> If you were asking me as a contractor, I would stay with the #6 copper conductor (it is copper isn't it?). <S> Install a 70A breaker which is allowed by NEC Article 240.6(A), and used a general duty NEMA 1 100A Disconnect at the charger. <S> This would protect me and you of the problem you now have. <S> I understand if you do not want to change out your circuit, but I would also always run your charger at the 32A setting. <S> Unless for some reason you need a quick charge. <S> Also if you want to stay on the safe side you might invest in a infrared thermometer and check the heat output on the circuit after charging a while and see if any of the connections at the cord cap, disconnect and breaker are generating any unusual heat. <S> Say no higher than 60C or 140F. <S> It really wouldn't hurt to schedule a routine to check the heat output to make sure everything was operating correctly. <A> But yeah, that $7 shutoff is pretty cheap, with its plastic-bodied pull tab for a shutoff. <S> Clearly not meant for daily use. <S> Nonetheless, you don't have to wildly derate GE stuff like you do for cheap Cheese junk - if it says 60A <S> it should be good for 60A (48A continuous). <S> You can run GE equipment on the brass. <S> * <S> I would shut off power at the main panel, then pull that pull-tab. <S> If it is warped, or comes apart in your hand, then -- well, do this sometime you can afford to be without the charger for a day or two! <S> One thing the industry has learned through experience is that lug connections are sensitive to torque setting . <S> Recent Code changes now require everyone to use even torque screwdrivers for the little stuff. <S> And a lot of elecricians resent this... somehow a mechanic's beam foot-pound torque wrench is $30, but a screwdriver sized inch-pound torque wrench is $85. <S> So some electricians (and most handymen/homeowners) just don't use torque wrenches. <S> Given the amount of plastic in this thing, it wouldn't surprise me <S> if the heat was coming from a loose connection at a lug, it's making a fairly considerable amount of heat, and that is traveling up the bus bars to scorch the plastic. <S> Thank God <S> it's a metallic box! <S> It might be fixable by opening up the box, cleaning up wire ends and retorquing, and likely the torque required will be just within the working range of a mechanic's torque wrench, so ask your neighbors. <S> Just don't confuse "more features" with "better". <S> You don't need a circuit breaker at that location. <S> I would say a higher ampacity would be "better". <S> * <S> "On the brass" is an old 1900 era streetcar term for "to the floor". <S> Fair chance if you find a power controller in a museum, it'll have the familiar GE logo. <A> That is also a "pull put" disconnect device, normally used for outdoor Air Conditioners. <S> There are blades stabbing into sockets that make the connections, then there are fuse holders connected to those blades. <S> That blade / socket / fuse clip scenario is notorious for getting corrosion that increases resistance and burns up. <S> You get what you pay for...
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I would shut off the supply breaker and then open your disconnect and look for anything that is damaged. Bad connections and bad contacts generate heat, the heat can damage the insulation of the wires, and even cause a fire. and that is the top end of your circuit which you have installed to charge your vehicle. Stay safe and good luck. Meaning you have pushed the power controller onto the brass stop. I would suspect your connections are loose as this is quite common if the above steps were not taken on larger stranded wire. I use the word "cheap" a lot to refer to the dreck found on Alibaba, Amazon Marketplace etc. I'm surprised to hear it associated with GE, one of the finest names in the industry. However if the box is damaged, this will be your opportunity to get the better box.
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Using conduit from ceiling to wall for closet switch? We're adding a wall to separate a garage and want to put outlets and a light switch in the wall but it was installed aligned with a steel beam above it so there is no way to fish a wire down into the wall from above. Would it be within code to come down from the ceiling about 8" away from the wall and run conduit down the wall to a switch? Also, in that same conduit could we run the wire for the outlets and just continue that in the wall to install outlets? It won't look great but it will be in a closet anyway. <Q> Why conduit? <S> You should use metal raceways. <S> They are designed to have a finished appearance. <A> The problem is you want to put two NM cables in one conduit. <S> You aren't using the conduit as the conduit wiring method , only as wire armor, so the full weight of conduit rules don't apply. <S> But you simply will not fit two NM cables (or a /3) in one 1/2" EMT conduit. <S> 3/4" conduit would be viable for two. <S> You may find a larger format surface conduit. <S> Or you could run two surface conduits. <S> Keep in mind that regardless, it is no longer permissible to run /2 cable as a switch loop. <S> You must now provision neutral <S> *. <S> That also means that if you want to carry line power onward from the switch location, the /3 brings down both always-hot and neutral, so you are able to do this. <S> If a 3-way switch is involved, all bets are off. <S> * remember, this is not the conduit wiring method , this is the NM cable wiring method using "any random pipe" as physical protection as required in an exposed location. <S> The random pipe happens to be also usable as conduit, but that buys you nothing. <A> I will take a crack at this even though most of this is in the previous answers. <S> However if you are not proficient working with EMT, you wind up buying a lot of ready made bends and fittings and it will come out looking a bit rough. <S> Maybe a lot rough. <S> exposed, it has a more finished appearance. <S> More importantly, there's no special tool needed, just a hacksaw and basic tools, and it's easy to work with the first time you use it. <S> Either way, you'll want to transition from NM to THHN where you enter that first box. <S> , it's pointless at best and a code issue at worst. <S> And when you stuff a raceway with NM you lose one of the best things about a raceway: <S> it's very easy to add or change things in the future. <S> You can buy rolls of THHN as small as 50' at the home improvement stores, so you don't have to have a lot of scrap. <S> Spend some time with the raceway catalog to make a good parts list, Wiremold has a good document that sums it all up in a few pages. <S> Use the larger V700 over the smaller V500 or whatever the equivalent is in other brands. <S> You never know if you might want to add something to the raceway later.
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Surface conduit is an option, and can just fit one cable, but again two cables will be too much for systems like normal size Legrand Wiremold. The short answer is yes, you can run EMT conduit exposed, it's done all the time. If you work with it all the time and own a bender, it's easy to work with, and cheap. Don't try to run NM in the raceway or conduit That means running a /3 cable. You can also run Wiremold or other surface raceway
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Should I protect a shipping container from direct contact with the ground? I'd like to buy a shipping container (something like the picture below) for my plot of land. However I heard some people saying that it can't go directly on the lands earth (don't know if it is true or not). So what should I use between the earth and the container? Just making it clear, I don't want to build anything (no cement please) and its weight is 3.8 ton. Its measure is 12 meters x 2.59 meters. <Q> Containers are designed to be supported in 4 corners and span the rest. <S> If your container is longer than 40 feet (12 metres), you will find 8 support points, not 4. <S> The most important ones are the middle ones that are 40' (12m) apart. <S> Left in contact with the ground, they will rust uncontrollably, with rate wildly depending on the soil type, pH and wetness. <S> The contact with the earth will also be a haven for critters. <S> what kind of critter will depend on the height, <S> so you get to decide whether the underspace is fit for scorpions, cats or horses! <S> Choose a height that will attract the least dangerous or most desirable critters. <A> Interesting. <S> Not exactly "DIY Home Improvement" though I have heard of people using containers to make small homes. <S> These are not "maritime" - this is really a standard 40' intermodal container. <S> They are designed to move easily on ships (maritime), roads (as truck trailers) and stacked on rail cars. <S> There are two issues I can think of: Ground contact - <S> If they are on concrete (like the picture) then they are quite stable. <S> But on dirt they may shift a bit and there may be a concern about corrosion, particularly if water can pool under/next to the container. <S> Level - If you are using this for anything like a workshop, you will want it to be close to level. <S> Since it is 8-1/2' (aka 2.59 meters), 10' pieces are plenty long enough and don't cost that much. <S> I think pressure treated wood makes sense for ground contact if the container will be in place more than a few months. <S> I would probably go with (US measurements) 2x4 (standard building lumber) or 4x4 (standard posts). <S> I'm not sure how many you would need, at least one every 2 feet or so. <S> As Harper points out, the critical points are the main corner supports - that's how containers are stacked on ships. <A> What is your concern with contact with earth? <S> My company has maybe 40 of these containers for storrage. <S> Some are are on timbers some are on gravel. <S> My office and the other electricians and millwrights are on asphalt, some stacked 2 high with stairs to the upper levels. <S> In my case I have multiple power sources both single phase and 3 phase power. <S> I know of these containers sitting on dirt for over 20 years <S> yes the base is rusted but the wood deck is strong enough to handle a 50hp diesel tractor. <S> So it would help to understand your concerns, galvanic corrosion, rust, uneven settling?
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The solution that I have seen most commonly is to use wood to hold it up.
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Circuit breaker won't turn back on after being turned off (not tripped) I turned off all the breakers of my home to work on my electric. When it was time to turn the circuit breakers back on, 3 of them wouldn't: the one for the dishwasher, the one for the dryer and one that says "Kitchen GFI". The breakers are NOT tripped. I tried forcing them to an "Off" position but they were already off (I turned them off myself). They feel kind of "loose" when I try turning them back on, but they immediately go back to the off position. I unplugged my dryer, dishwasher and some other small appliances from my kitchen. It didn't help. I tried resetting some GFCI outlets around the house. Nothing. I called an electrician and he believes the circuit breakers went bad. My home is 12 years old. Does that sound about right? Why would this happen only when I manually turned the breakers off? <Q> The electricians came over. <S> The guy pushed the breaker into the wall and switched it towards the on position. <S> That did it. <S> I guess the breakers weren't exactly 100% bad yet, but the springs inside are not the same as they used to be, so this trick worked. <A> Occam's razor says that "to work on my electric" is more likely the cause than "breakers went bad". <S> Do breakers go bad? <S> Absolutely. <S> Does it happen often, compared to other causes? <S> No. <S> What electric work did you do recently? <S> Check each part of it very carefully. <S> If, for example, you did any work on a junction box that has switches controlling multiple circuits, it is possible that you accidentally crossed wires between circuits, causing a problem. <S> Or you may have mixed up a hot with a switched hot or some other combination. <S> In this particular case, I would suspect something between the dishwasher circuit and Kitchen GFI, since those are both in the kitchen. <S> That does leave the question of the dryer circuit since that (a) is a bigger circuit (typically 30 Amps instead of 15 or 20) and (b) is 240V instead of 120V. <S> and I have a feeling you will find an accidental miswire that is causing a short circuit (or 2 or 3). <A>
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Switch off the main breaker and see if the branch circuit breakers will reset. But check everything you did - and if need be take pictures and then carefully disconnect any new switches, outlets, etc.
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What screws to affix TV mount to wooden stud partition? A 70" TV weighing 35kg is being mounted on stud partition wall using a fixed position TV mount which is 600mm wide. It will hit two studs approximately 230mm apart in the centre of the TV mount. While studs are normally 600mm apart, they are closer together beside a concrete column which is hidden by the plasterboard over it. The wall has 12.5mm plasterboard over 6mm plywood over the stud partition. The TV Mount (rated for 100kg) came with 6.3x55mm screws and wall plugs for use in a variety of materials - brick/concrete/wood. Should I use the included screws or instead use Goldscrew Woodscrews or TurboCoach Coach Screws? If so, what diameter and length would you suggest? Here's what came with the TV mount. Looks like they suggest driving the screws straight into the wood, however I assume for a screw of this size a pilot hole should be used? <Q> The screws that is supplied with the mount are rated to do the job, the plywood layer under the drywall is the only additional layer that is not typical in woof frame construction. <S> With that in mind, it is still thin enough so the screws will hold the TV you have, or any other TV. <S> Your screws you have should give about 1 1/4" of depth into the framing. <S> Get at least 4 screws into the wall and you will be fine. <S> The shear strength of the screws far exceed the 70 lbs you will apply on them. <S> IMHO.... <A> To translate to my US dimensions: <S> You have 1/2" drywall over 1/4" plywood on top of clean studs. <S> The supplied screws are 1/4" x 2". <S> Those are probably strong enough, but I would go with 2-1/2" or even 3" cabinet screws - something like these . <S> There is normally a concern of "what if there is something inside the studs that you might hit with a screw. <S> In this case, you have seen the open walls so that should not be a concern, so if it were me I would go with longer screws. <S> 55mm - 12.5mm <S> - 6mm = <S> 36.5mm ~ 1.4". <S> If you decide to use other screws, make sure they have a large enough head that they secure properly over the holes in the TV mount, or use appropriate washers together with the screws. <A> I use those yellow or green, star bit deck screws from HD for nearly everything. <S> because of the star bit, you can drive them deeper than drywall screws, which often torque out if you are driving long ones and hit a knot or some hard wood. <S> But, yea, nearly anything with enough length to get an good 1 1/2 or 2 inches into the stud will work. <S> Use as many as you have holes for in the mount. <A> for a flush mount the weight is in shear and strong screws are not needed, the supplied screws will hold about 100kg each.
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The rule of thumb I use is 1" of screw into the framing behind the drywall and the plywood.
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How dangerous is induction in my wires? I had to replace a cable going to a light switch. The cable was about 7m long and contained three (1.5mm^2) copper wires, with a distance of about 2mm between any two of them. Source One wire was the hot wire that constantly provided 230V, 50Hz alternating current to the switch, and one was going back to the light. The third one wasn't connected to anything. I was very surprised to see that when the light was turned off (so only one of the three wires was powered), I could measure about 140V AC on the third wire compared to a grounded water pipe, using my super cheap multimeter. I didn't dare to touch it as long as any of it was powered. I wondered, was this measurement of 140V realistic - or was my multimeter just faulty? And how much current could this cable have provided? I have no idea how to estimate whether this was realistic so I'd be very happy to learn whether there are any formulas to approximate these values. <Q> If the wire is not connected to anything, it is a floating wire and the voltage measured on such wire would depend on parasitics. <S> More specifically, there is some parasitic capacitance, $C_{fh}$ , between the floating wire and the hot wire, as well as some parasitic capacitance, $C_{fn}$ , between the floating wire and the neutral wire. <S> When you connect one probe of the voltmeter to the floating wire and the other probe to the ground, a voltage divider is formed between the hot wire and the ground and this voltage will be divided between $C_{fh}$ and $C_{fn}$ in parallel with the input impedance of the voltmeter. <S> The outcome will depend on the type and length of the cable and on the input impedance of the voltmeter, but you can easily measure some significant voltage there. <S> It is also possible that the cable is faulty ( $140 <S> $ V seems rather high), so don't make any assumptions without careful testing. <S> You can find some more details on the topic in this post on the home improvement forum. <A> It does sound like you are seeing induced voltage here, which is very commonly seen with house wiring when measured with a cheap multimeter. <S> It's often called "phantom voltage. <S> " <S> It will disappear if you connect the smallest load to it, and therefore is not dangerous. <S> The meter itself is enough of a load to make the induced voltage disappear. <S> Old fashioned solenoid voltage testers and most analog meters have enough impedance to keep you from getting fooled by induced voltages. <S> If you're going to work on house wiring, I'd strongly suggest a combination of a non-contact voltage tester and a solenoid type voltage tester, used properly these will keep you safe and give you enough info to troubleshoot. <S> This low Z test would not be desirable feature in some electronics work - in a delicate circuit with tiny working voltages the current the meter draws could disrupt the circuit you are testing. <S> There may be another problem here - it appears from your question that your ground wire is floating - that is it is not connected to anything, not bonded to the grounding system - and depending on the electrical system where you are, in most that green wire should be grounded properly for safety, but that's another question. <A> This is not an induction effect. <S> Your meter is not faulty. <S> It is possible for significant voltages to be present between the neutral line and true ground in the absence of significant current flow in the circuit because of what else is connected to that neutral and how much current those things are drawing. <S> This is a matter best discussed with a trained electrician.
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Better meters for house wiring and other electrician type tasks have a low impedance (low Z) voltage test, in which the meter itself has low enough impedance that it will make these phantom voltages vanish.
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How can I remove residue left after removing aluminum foil from my windows? Let's see whether this is a question for DIY or for Chemistry. I put up aluminium foil on my windows for a few days, to test whether it was a good way to avoid the heating by the morning sun. I put it up on the inside, by wetting the glass with plain tap water and letting the foil cling to the glass. Some of the windows were done with water + a bit of dish washing soap; there was not a big difference in the result. The foil was applied with its shiny face to the glass. After 5 days, I removed the foil (easily, as expected) to discover that the glass was patterned according to the imperfections in the way the foil had been applied. For example, if the foil got wrinkled while applying it, that was visible in the glass. Furthermore, the foil itself has a very slightly embossed pattern; this pattern has been transferred to the glass too, in patches. The patterns have appeared in all windows, no matter whether I used plain water or water with dish washing soap. Thinking the pattern had to be related to water hardness, I tried wetting them with vinegar. No result at all. There were also tries with window cleaner, rubbing alcohol, washing soda. No effect. Assuming that the pattern is caused by some aluminium salt/oxide/whatever, finally I tried with caustic soda, hoping it would react with the aluminium. It worked, mostly: there are still some patches where you can see the foil pattern in the glass if there is light reflecting from just the right angle. My question is: what else can I try to remove those last patches? The options I can think of are a stronger solution of caustic soda, or bleach, which also attacks aluminium. For reference, the caustic soda solution I have used up to now was 1 litre of water + 3 tbsp caustic soda. According to the packaging, 1 litre + 2 tbsp is used for drain opening. I'm hesitant to go stronger because supposedly at some point the glass will get etched. Also interesting: some of the window panes were much easier to clean than others, even if the foil was applied in exactly the same way. Bonus points if anyone knows what actually got deposited in the glass. If this happens with tap water, I wonder how can this be used for food... <Q> Sodium hydroxide or the main chemical in draino will dissolve aluminum. <S> The green coating on the pellets is aluminum when in contact with water <S> it causes a boiling effect , but I would use razor blades. <S> Years ago when tinting windows was big we had to get the windows perfectly clean or bubbles in the tint showed. <S> We used Windex and razor blades then a final wipe with a micro fiber cloth. <S> The Windex or other window cleaner actually created a lubricant effect and the blades lasted longer but when debris are shaved off it helped to float the dirt and residue off the glass. <A> The aluminum has left aluminum oxide on the window glass. <S> Or use an aluminum pre-cleaner product. <A> Finally I used just a glass scraper, which removed almost everything. <S> As a safety test, I tried to purposefully scratch the glass with the blade. <S> I didn't manage to leave a mark, so it feels quite safe. <S> So, another reason not to care for "lubrication". <S> (Maybe if the blade was really forcefully applied? <S> or maybe it depends on some glass type?) <S> Tip: I got a scrapper with a ~7 cm wide blade, which turns out to not actually reach the glass in the center. <S> I guess a thinner scrapper would have better contact and scrape better. <S> I didn't try with an even stronger solution of caustic soda. <S> If the result is perfect , then go for it. <S> If less than perfect, then forget the caustic soda and go for the scraper, since the soda would just make that final layer harder to see. <S> (Self-answering because the original commenters who were in the right path didn't make their own answer when requested)
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Clean the glass as if you are cleaning corroded aluminum, with vinegar and water. If I had to do this again , since the results seem to depend on the particular glass pane, I think I would first start with caustic soda on a corner. Notably, I tried "lubricating" as others have mentioned with soapy water or windex, but that doesn't seem to help at all while making the residue invisible, so I stopped doing it. For completeness: bleach did nothing.
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What are some quick and affordable insulation solutions for a shed? I'd like to use my wood shop in the winter. It's a detached, 20x14 shed and I installed a 5000watt garage heater already but it takes a while (hours) to heat up and it's probably very wasteful since there is no insulation. I'm looking for the best place to start to help heat it up quicker and keep it warm longer. The walls are 2x4 studs so I could use bats and the ceiling is gabled with storage above. I did noticed that it appears the eves are open vented too so heat is probably just rising right up and out the eaves, is it okay to block these? I'm in New England so it gets pretty cold, it's about 19F right now. Ideally I'd like to work comfortably when it's 30F> I'm worried if I add bat insulation I'll have to cover it which adds to the expense not to mention at like $40/section it would cost a lot to do the walls let alone the ceiling. Update with picture. Could I vault the ceiling so it stays vented but still gives me space up there? Basically insulated with rigid foam and plywood up the rafters? <Q> edited after picture added to question <S> It's tough to get a big shed like that warm when everything's cold. <S> You can heat up the air quickly, but the slab, the walls, the contents all soak up that heat so it takes a while to warm up. <S> That happens even with insulation, although it probably won't be as cold first thing in the morning if it's insulated. <S> I'd probably go across the collar ties <S> so you have a little less space to heat and a good area above for ventilation. <S> You'll want to cut in a small gable vent at either end. <S> To use bats you'd have to add collar ties. <S> The foam board will leave some space so air can flow up from the eves over the insulation to the space above the rafter ties and out the gable vents. <S> It will be a lot cheaper to use bats on the walls. <S> Left uncovered they'll be prone to tears. <S> You could cover with pegboard halfway down and hardboard from the pegboard down to the floor. <S> Not really a cheap project unfortunately <S> , it adds up to a few bucks any way you slice it. <S> You could buy one of those battery powered jackets ... <A> The picture helped immensely. <S> I would insulate with 2" rigid foam and call it a day. <S> Cut it <S> so it is a press fit in place, and if you want to get fancy, fill the gaps with door and window foam, but it will get messy. <S> Covering it with thin plywood will help, but it will drive up the cost and the foam will cost plenty to start with. <A> Look at restaurant outdoor patios for ideas. <S> A couple of well-placed radiant heaters will keep your body and face warm. <S> Then add a small fan heater pointed at your feet.
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I'd say I'd use foam board on the ceiling, it will be easier to deal with than bats. If your heater is convection type (with fan) then swap it for radiant heaters.
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Electric boiler and dryer same breaker? I'm adding an electric boiler 240 volt. Can I use the same breaker from the dryer? I don't have room to add another breaker on my electric panel. <Q> If you live in the US. <S> Then NEC Article 210.23(2) states that you cannot exceed the circuit ampere rating more than 50% of the total rating of the dryer. <S> NEC Article 220.54 states you shall rate the dryer at 5000W <S> (V/A) or the name plate rating of the dryer whichever is larger . <S> So 5000W/240V = 20.8A (more than 50% of 30A). <S> That means <S> NO <S> you cannot use the circuit to power both your boiler and the dryer on the same circuit. <S> Hope this helps. <A> The short answer is no. <S> You will either have to replace your panel with a new larger one, install a sub panel for additional space or install twin style breakers. <A> If not violating local codes, there might be a solution via load shedding relay , which avoids parallel use, what should be no problem in this case unless both the electronic control systems - if any - of the units are incompatible . <S> The unit having lower prioritization must be compatible, since only that unit will be shut on/off via the relay or contactor. <S> Older units without any electronics should be fine with those power interruptions. <S> This relay could be installed in the unit with higher power (2nd option would be to choose the incompatible unit for the installation to control the compatible one), and a second normal relay or contactor in the other unit, a cable has to be run between the devices. <S> Thus no space is needed in the panel. <S> The English Wikipedia entry seems to be missing (maybe that is an indication that it is not allowed in most english language areas), here is a translation from the German page: Load Shedding Relay
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You might try to revisit your Panel and see if it accepts half size breakers and see if you can create some space in it, or the only other practical solution I can see, would be to install a subpanel.
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Two power sources in a single gang switch box I'm in the process of upgrading a bunch of switches in my house to TP Link Kasa smart switches. I just opened a switch box and I don't understand the wire configuration in it, and was hoping to get some explanation about what's going on. Here's what I see: When I turned off the breaker switch that I thought was controlling the power to this switch, the switch did stop working as expected. But when I tested the terminals on my switch with a multimeter on AC voltage setting, I was surprised to see that the display showed me ~120V. I turned off the breaker switch for the adjacent room and redid the test, and this time the display showed me ~0V. To test this further, I separated the three black cables to test them individually, and the results are as follows: Black 1: 0.025VBlack 2: 1.608VBlack 3: 118.2V Another interesting observation, after separating the black cables, the light switch in the adjacent room stopped working. Any explanation about what's going on here would be much appreciated! <Q> Just looking at the connections in the switch box and the voltage readings on the separated wires, it appears that cable 3 (lower right) recieves power from the service panel <S> , cable 2 (lower left) supplies power to adjacent rooms, and cable 1 (upper left) runs to the light fixture. <S> - What is completely surprising is the actions of the two circuit breakers. <S> Perhaps you should begin by reconnecting everything. <S> Then, switch off the circuit breakers individually and in combination, and note which switches and lights stop working in each case. <S> If you find anything that goes dark when either breaker is off, or anything that goes dark only when both breakers are off, then your house is dangerously miswired and you need to fix it before installing anything new. <A> When you add a light, you don't have to bring its power supply cable all the way back from the main panel. <S> You can simply extend from somewhere else in the system that already has always-hot and neutral. <S> That is exactly what cable 2 is doing. <S> Cable 3 brings supply from the panel (or another outlet). <S> You know what cable 1 does. <S> By "cable <S> " I mean the gray things with multiple wires in them. <A> Black 3 is the phase coming in (permanent line coming in) , black 2 is is a phase 'looping through' (also permanent line but going out) : it feeds the switch in the near room. <S> White are neutrals pigtailed together because neutral should not be interrupted
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Black 1 (switched line) is the switched loop controlling your light fixture (in newer installations it's a red wire).
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What do I need to know for wall-mounted desk I'm trying to build a rather large desk that's going to hold 2 computers 2 monitors and accessories associated with them, and well, 2 humans working all day long and occasionally resting on the desk. I've already picked the countertop, which is a 2000mm/600mm/28mm in size made of highly compressed chipboard but it's still relatively heavy. It's going to be wall-mounted to a red-brick wall that has some plaster on it but I intend to use dowels with steel screws (black ones) and 3 triangle shaped steel corners positioned at both ends and in the middle. Thing is, I don't know what length the screws should be and currently I have trouble finding steel triangle that goes at least 300mm in width and to me it feels like the whole thing would just be unstable. The countertop is sort of heavy. It's not real wood but it still weights something in the ballpark of 10-15kg (could be wrong, just feels very heavy) I also noticed the stores sell L-shaped corners but I don't know how they distribute weight to the wall. Eventually I considered using table legs but you know ... the desk would lose it's wall-mounted spirit, but even with that I think of using at least 1 leg in the horizontal and vertical center of the plot. I'm not an engineer nor an architect and I'm wondering what maths should I use to calculate things properly to get a stable and sturdy desk. Sure I won't sit on it, but my guests could and it has to hold 2 Full-ATX computers and screens to them. Is it even possible to have this wall mounted or I'm better of with 4 legs (although it's an issue finding legs with the height I need so I guess I'll have to order some custom ones, which is expensive). Thank you for any advice. EDIT NOTE: On the diagram, the triangles are 180mm not 18mm !!!!! Side diagram: EDIT: I was considering adding legs and make it as a combination but do I add 2 or 3 legs? The material doesn't bend much, if at all, it's a work countertop but I don't know. And If I get 3 legs, first, my chair is going to bump into it sooner or later and second ... if I get 3 legs ... why not just go for 4 legs. I mean ... 4 legs is going to cost less than 3 legs + 3 steel braces. Minus the issue that I can't find legs with the height that I'm looking for. <Q> This is perfectly feasible, but you need different brackets. <S> They should extend at least 2/3 of the way to the front edge of your table and be about 2/3 as tall as they are deep, at a minimum. <S> There are a number of similar questions on DIYSE which may give useful details, but the gist of it is to use heavy-duty brackets and robust fasteners. <S> I don't know what "black screws" are, but I recommend 8mm (5/16") lag screws in purpose-built anchors, carefully placed in solid portions of your wall and penetrating at least 5cm (2"). <S> For a 2m desk I'd use four or five such brackets, with all provided holes filled with screws. <S> You'll need to fasten the top through the brackets as well, particularly at the rear, to prevent tilt. <S> Use thick screws that penetrate about 3/4 the depth of the top, and pilot appropriately for them. <S> A wrap of tape on your drill bit to indicate depth will prevent catastrophic mistakes. <S> If either end of the desk contacts a wall, install cleats to carry the load there. <S> They'll add considerable stability to the top. <S> Keep the front ends back a few inches so they don't show, and you can taper the end cut back as well. <A> <A> As others have suggested, legs are your best option. <S> The mentioned 180mm triangle would not hold the desktop for long, I would be hesitant with a 850mm brace that extends from the front of the desk to the wall 600mm down. <S> If the wall were wood studded or concrete, maybe, but brick is difficult to mount anything too where there is any type of pushing or pulling force, you're likely to pull either the anchor right out of the brick or even worse, crack or pull an entire brick out. <S> I would also suggest a solid wood edging along the front edge, <S> 2000mm is a long span and you'll likely find that the desktop will sag after time.
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I would do this as a combination: do it wall-mounted, but support the front length of the table with some kind of table legs which help reducing the torque at the wall. Legs are your easiest and likely cheapest option.
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I want to install outlet on existing junction box I tried to install an outlet on existing junction box as below, but failed because it's too small to put in. I have 3 solutions to think. Remove junction caps and put 2 outgoing lines into backstabs and screws, so it works as junction Buy conduits and extend another box on the top Replace existing box to bigger one (I can't.. because I can't take out the box from bottom conduits) Can you tell me which is the best(means easiest) solution? (You can put your own) <Q> There is a hollow in the middle of the box, and they should be pushed back down there. <S> It also helps to use a less bulky model of wire nut. <S> Ideal brand is popular among electricians. <S> As far as GFCI, don't put a GFCI here . <S> It's outdoors and the GFCI will quickly corrode and fail. <S> So follow this circuit back toward the ser ice panel. <S> If it makes a stop at an indoor receptacle, fit the GFCI there and place this downline on its LOAD terminals. <S> Or you can use a GFCI breaker. <S> Then, fit a plain receptacle here and place "GFCI Protected" stickers here and on any other receptacles that are now so protected. <S> Those are included with the GFCI. <S> Lastly, fit an outdoor "in use" "waterproof" cover. <S> They don't work, but they're required by Code. <S> The GFCI inside the house will do the protecting of all the wire in this box including the LINE <S> side wiring (which a GFCI out here can't protect). <A> If it really won't fit get a extension for a bell box (weatherproof).Also it should be a weather resistant GFCI outlet.last an in use cover or extra duty <S> this protects the outlet from splashes, the weather resistant GFCI has the electronics potted or encased <S> so moisture won't cause failures. <S> I put a gfci in that exact type of box last week , Using a smaller wire nut may help there <S> but I think I had tan and red wire <S> nuts on both the hot and neutral pigtails and <S> it fit. <A> For this case, I would recommend the Leviton Weather Resistant GFCI because they made it slimmer and you might have better luck in getting it into the box.
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GFCI devices are able to protect a downline circuit, e.g. A GFCI circuit breaker does exactly that. If there's no upstream GFCI, you need to have a GFCI and it needs to be weather resistant. That box has plenty of room, but you need to be strategic in where you place the wire nuts. Many people use those terminals accidentally because they don't know any better; use them deliberately.
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What type of tool do I need for this screw with a pin in the slot? What type of tool do I need for this screw holding my license plate? <Q> This is secure hex bit or similar. <S> There are a bunch of varieties. <S> The basic idea is to take a "normal" head (e.g., a standard hex or Torx) and add something to prevent the regular bits from working. <S> It is of limited use as far as real security because the bits are usually not hard to find. <S> For example, this set from Harbor Freight or this set from Home Depot . <S> Search for "security bit" or "tamper proof bit" or similar. <A> If license plate theft isn't a concern where you are, simply break out that pin. <S> Use a needle-nose plier, small flat screwdriver, or something similar and bend it back and forth a couple times. <S> It'll fatigue and fall off, and you can use a standard allen key. <A> However you need the TX as in TX10 Tx20 <S> Tx30 <S> You can usually buy them all as one set.
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You need a TX Torx bit or screwdriverOrdinary torx bits are numbered T10, T20 T30 Etc.
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Convert Full Switched Receptacle to Half Switched I have a switch that controls both halves of an outlet. I want to convert it so that it only controls half the outlet, leaving the other one hot all the time I found a diagram online, does it look right? <Q> The incoming hot is switched, and there's likely no constant hot source present (unless it was wired as a split initially and someone modified it). <S> You can certainly explore the situation to find out for sure. <S> We can't say from here. <A> Maybe a little better diagram would help. <S> Try this one. <S> Good luck <A> Your diagram shows a 3-wire Romex cable between the switch and the receptacle. <S> Is there a 3-wire cable between the two? <S> If not, you still would be able to make a half-switched duplex receptacle if there is a line hot in the receptacle box. <S> Is there one? <S> If there is a line hot in the receptacle box, then you have a very easy task which could be done by changing some connections at the receptacle box with little time and effort. <S> Maybe you envision pulling a new 3-wire cable? <S> If the receptacle box and/or switch box is fastened to a stud, you'd have to remove the boxes (to reach in and pull out staples), then use the old 2-wire cable to pull a new 3-wire cable. <S> This might be doable if the cable goes up through the top plate into an accessible attic, but might be very hard or impossible if the cable goes through even one hole in a stud.
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If the switch cable does not go through multiple studs to get to the receptacle, then experts might offer hope you could do this. It's probably not possible with your configuration.
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What is the correct way to wire a 3 way switch where power comes into the middle switch? I found checked two books and neither had the diagram. Only I found two separate diagrams that did not work. The setup: Box 1 with 3 wire runs to box 2.Box 2 has 2 wire power in, 2 wire to light and 3 wire to box 1 Both Diagrams show Power (Black) to 3 wire (black), connected to common black screw in box 1 switch. Power in Neutral (white) to light neutral (white/silver screw) Box 2 switch Common black screw to Light (black/ brass screw) Where they differ is in the Red and White from the 3 wire. One shows reds on left, whites on right; both switches. The other shows Red left box 2, red right box 1; white right box 2, white left box 1. Both configurations trip the breaker. I have checked ground connections, lines with multimeter, 3 separate switches, Checked tension and for micro holes/pinching, and checked the light.The issue seems to be with the 3 way wiring. I'm at a loss. This is the diagram of what i tried, the other diagram was the same with the red and white in the far right box swapped... that didn't work either. <Q> You'll lose your mind dealing with all the red black white business. <S> Get a 5-pack of colored electrical tape and start marking wires for their actual function . <S> Always mark wires the same at both ends. <S> Here is what's really happening in a 3-way. <S> First, the two traveler wires get marked yellow. <S> There is no need to tell them from each other. <S> That'll leave red, which is a preferential color for switched-hot . <S> On the black and white cable up to the lamp, mark both ends of the black wire with red tape, since it is switched hot. <S> Mark <S> the lamp's black lead red also. <S> The hard part is behind us. <S> Now we wrap up. <S> On both 3-way switches, the yellow wires go on the brass screws. <S> On the near 3-way, the supply wire (black) goes onto the black common screw. <S> (It's almost like someone color coded it, lol). <S> On the far 3-way, you have no choice: 1 wire 1 screw. <S> Done. <S> All the wires that remain are white and red. <S> Nut them by color: white to white, red to red. <S> Golly, that was easy! <S> Or rather, we made it easy with our thinking cap and some colored tape. <A> Here's the best diagram I can come up with without doing a Google search... <S> Hopefully you can understand it... Since your incoming power and switch leg are in the same box we have to send power to the farthest switch ( switch #2 ), which we do with the white wire from the 12/3. <S> This will energize the travelers, the black and red wires from the 12/3. <S> We then attach the black wire from the fixture to the black screw on switch #1. <S> Wire nut the white wire from your incoming power to the white wire running to the fixture. <S> Circuit complete. <S> Obviously, make sure your ground wires are wire nutted as well... <A> Start with a good generic drawing like in the Harper Answer. <S> Then imagine each wire is a stretchable elastic. <S> Move each device around to where you want it, while maintaining the integrity of the "elastics." <S> Then re-draw <S> the drawing as wires in each cable. <S> Add your junction boxes and grounds. <S> Now you have a working drawing <A> The answer was the roof sheeters and my father (by side stapling the wire instead of top) messed it up. <S> All Answers given and even the initial diagram are right, Harpers is the easiest to understand.
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So in the /3 cable, tape the black and white wires with yellow tape.
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help me interpret the results of an outlet tester on some GFCI receptacles I'm trying to figure out what might be wrong with some exterior GFCI receptacles that I have. The problem is that this is an old house, and I'm not really sure what is happening between the receptacles and the breakers. Since the receptacles are all outside, the wiring to these receptacles runs underground, and I have no idea what junctions (or lack thereof) have been made. I'm using a Commercial Electric GFCI outlet tester, like this one: https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/cc6d7656-65fd-4f30-b66c-226d62c6f1fe/svn/multimeters-ce-hgt6120-64_1000.jpg I've got four GFCI receptacles connected to two breakers. Of these four, two are one model, and two are another model (I'm mentioning this in case different models of GFCI receptacles might have different behaviors). On circuit breaker 1: GFCI receptacle 1, model 1: lights up | OFF | OFF | RED | indicating BAD GROUND . Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT (this doesn't make sense to me). GFCI receptacle 2, model 2: lights up | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT . Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | OFF | OFF | indicating OPEN HOT (or no power?). On circuit breaker 2: GFCI receptacle 3, model 1: lights up | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT . Pressing the GFCI button successfully trips the GFCI and the lights then switch to | OFF | OFF | OFF | indicating OPEN HOT (or no power?). GFCI receptacle 4, model 2: lights up | OFF | OFF | RED | indicating BAD GROUND . Pressing the GFCI button has NO EFFECT. My analysis: I think GFCI receptacles 2 and 3 are fine and are behaving as a properly wired, properly grounded GFCI receptacle should behave with a GFCI outlet tester. I think GFCI receptacle 4 is behaving as a properly wired, but not properly grounded GFCI receptacle should behave with a GFCI outlet tester. As this receptacle is very near GFCI receptacle 3 which seems to be properly grounded, I'm thinking to just run an external ground wire from receptacle 3 to receptacle 4 and everything should be all set. What the hell is going on with GFCI receptacle 1? At first it seems like it is just another ground that isn't actually grounded, like GFCI receptacle 4. But why the hell does it change to | OFF | GREEN | OFF | indicating CORRECT wiring when the GFCI breaker trips ? That makes no sense. <Q> Normally, the legends on a 3-light tester are useless and wrong, so I call them "magic 8-ball testers". <S> However, they are simple affairs, with the 3 neon lights connected triangle style across the 3 prongs , and a thinker can get useful info out of that. <S> Not in your case. <S> That tester has a microcontroller stuck in front of the lights. <S> The controller is interpreting the raw signals to "help you out". <S> Just like the old legends, the interpreted answers are wrong. <S> So it destroyed the one thing that made a 3-lamp tester useful: raw data. <S> Into the trash it goes. <S> Get an old style one, with yellow yellow red lights and <S> Y <S> Y - being a normal reading. <S> Of course get one with a GFCI tester; that function has nothing to do with the presence or absence of the very unhelpful microcomputer. <S> I agree with your analysis on receptacles 2, 3 and 4. <S> GFCI #1, ?? <S> ? <S> Whatever. <S> It is normal for outdoor GFCIs to fail far too soon, <S> that's what you get for leaving them outside . <S> Occam's razor: bad GFCI. <S> Do you know how GFCIs work? <S> "I spend $20 a socket replacing every receptacle with one of these and the home inspector signs off" is not how GFCIs work. <S> GFCI is a filtering/safety system that rides between the hot and neutral. <S> It comes in combo w/breaker, standalone (deadfront) or combo w/receptacle. <S> Obviously, the first two don't have any sockets and their one thing is to protect the downline part of the circuit. <S> They can protect the whole circuit - one device. <S> Here's the thing: the common GFCI receptacle can do that too. <S> That's the one purpose of the LOAD terminals. <S> So when I hear about GFCIs getting chewed up outdoors, and when I hear about 2 GFCIs on the same circuit, I say it's a good time to figure how the circuit is wired, and find an indoor location to fit one GFCI that'll protect the whole outdoor part of the circuit. <A> You really have 2 problems. <S> The first is your tester. <S> The 2nd is the 1 GFCI that won't trip. <S> Since the tester showed a bad ground there is no way for the test function on the GFCI to work. <S> Adding a ground to that circuit should fix the problem if it looks like there is a ground it may be a bootleg ground (tapped from the neutral). <S> From the information provided there is nothing wrong with your GFCI devices, but the wiring to 1, possibly 2, is incorrect. <A> All GFCI's in the same area can be chained, saving money trouble and vampire energy. <S> First in the chain protects all the others downstream. <S> So fix one GFCI, remove all the rest. <S> It is also legal in the USA under the NEC to have no ground, on two wire circuits. <S> Those outlets should be market "GFCI no Equipment Ground".
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Part of your problem may be: too many GCFI's.
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How to remove broken light protector/cover from inside oven? I bought a 6 year old house, and the Previous Owners did basically zero maintenance. The oven is a Bosch underbench electric unit, and it looks like the glass cap/protector for the interior light has broken off at some point, so they kept using the oven with the lamp exposed. The lamp does turn on when in use. I expect this has been left like this for at least 2 years, maybe up to 6 based on the condition of the rest of the oven. This leads to a threadded glass ring welded into the fitting by dried/hardened food/oils, and looks like this: I've got the replacement cover already, and its essentially a very short glass jar with one thread around the top so I know this ring should unscrew conventionally. I've tried blasting it with conventional oven cleaner to dissolve the shite, but its not getting into the threads. I've tried some other solvents like "Contact 60" an electrical contact cleaner, and some other household liquid cleaners hoping they'd wick up the threads, but that's made no difference. There's around 4mm of "neck" exposed so I can grip it with one hand and rotate, but the whole light fitting is loose, and I don't want to overstress whatever mountpoints are there. The glass is sharp too, so can't put too much pressure on it, even with a teatowel to hold it. Do I have to open the oven and remove the whole light assembly, then work it on the bench? Should I try to break the remaining glass with a hammer, or alternating heat and cold like cutting the neck off a beer bottle? Feels risky. Or do I give up and get a service wallah out to do it? Edit : Here's the new fitting, to show what the old one will be like: <Q> Good news - it came off! <S> A Hot air gun was useless as was a butane torch - I suspect the heat was not softening anything and <S> the adhesives were well and truely burned on. <S> In the end I used a teatowel in one hand to cup the entire fitting and then pushed an "automatic punch" against the lip, and one piece cracked out on the first try. <S> Against the other side, it took a dozen hits before breaking the same way, with a vertical crack and a chunk out. <S> I left the lamp in place to protect the socket from any damage. <S> Its already got oil burned on the glass. <S> So then I could simply unscrew the remainder and it fell out in two pieces after one rotation, which I caught in the teatowel. <S> Not sure if it was the increased grip, or if it was the shock which broke the hold <S> but it turned freely after that. <S> Despite using a damp catching cloth, there were heaps of tiny glass shards in the bottom of the oven. <S> Had I attempted to use heat and cold to crack the glass, it could have made a bigger mess. <S> Careful cleanup is required <S> here - glass fragments are no fun near food. <A> After tightening if it backs out a little then start going back and forth and usually they will come out. <S> Worst case is a small punch to fracture the glass but this is my last resort. <A> I just had the same problem. <S> My successful method was to warm the remaining glass and metal housing with a hairdryer, it took several goes to soften the grease etc. <S> Then I had a small plastic tub of my granddaughters play-doh in a drawer which is around 2” diameter at the base and tapers towards the lid. <S> By inserting that inside the broken cover, pushing up and unscrewing it I was able to unscrew the threaded glass portion of the cover, hooray!Engineer call out had been quoted as £99 inc. vat plus any parts! <S> Hope this helps others. <A> I had the same problem, with the light protector broken a few millimetres from the thread <S> so there wasn't much to grip to remove it. <S> After trying a number of the suggestions here and elsewhere I ended up doing what I was hoping to avoid. <S> I attacked it directly with a hammer. <S> (Initially, I tried using a screwdriver between the hammer and glass but the glass was too smooth <S> so the screwdriver kept skidding.) <S> The hammer method worked easily and with much more control than I expected. <S> At no point did I feel in danger of damaging the oven. <S> This is the method I would recommend/use again. <S> As others have said, there were a lot of glass shards. <S> The oven liner caught most of them <S> but then I vacuumed inside the oven and light housing; I didn't want to damage the inside surface of the oven by wiping glass across it. <S> I wiped it gently with a damp cloth afterwards and am confident there is no more shards in the oven. <S> I hope this helps someone. <A> Looked at some of the suggestions regarding this. <S> I’m going to cover the glass <S> threaded part that is still in place with clear sellotape to try and cut down on the shards flying off. <S> Let you know how it goes. <A> I tried hammering but the broken glass ring would not break! <S> But I got it out by jamming the top of this plastic tub of salt, covered in 2-3 layers of newspaper, into the ring. <S> The rough glass gripped the newspaper/tub nicely as I twisted. <S> I did preheat to 200c then cool to hand-warm, then turned power off. <S> Good luck! <S> Wear gloves/goggles for the tiny glass shards!
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I have had some luck with a hot oven and needle nose pliers getting stuck fixtures apart, make sure to unplug prior to doing this, also I have found that sometimes turning clockwise (tighting) then back counter clockwise can help break loose whatever is causing the glass to stick. Looks like the heavy handed ‘bash it with a hammer’ approach is easiest. Perhaps spraying cold water on the hot glass might have helped crack it, but read on.
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I ran out of propane and now the water heater pilot light will not stay lit I had run out of propane. Now that I have propane, I can’t get the pilot light to stay lit on my water heater, nor will it stay lit even long enough to light the burner. Click for larger view: <Q> I have had similar problems in the past when running out, what I found is I had to hold the pilot for several minutes to get the lines full of propane again. <S> I found it easiest to light the stove top or try until it would burn then I went to the furnace and water heater <S> it still took a few minutes as the pilot is a very small draw but <S> once the lines had properly purged I had no problems after that, it was like some air was in the lines <S> would light burn funny and go out, once I got a solid flame the problem was solved. <A> My understanding of pilot lights is that they heat a thermocouple, which is a mass of metal that detects heat. <S> The electronics behind that thermocouple will shut off the gas to the pilot if the thermocouple gets cold so that if something blows out the pilot you don't have a gas leak in your home. <S> The side effect is that you have to heat up that mass of metal manually when you light the pilot. <S> This is usually done by manually holding the valve open for a while when the pilot is first lit. <S> (My gas fireplace says to do this for at least a minute, but it's usually good after 15 seconds.) <A> Easy way to purge the line is to losen the black iron drip leg. <S> Shut gas off to heater lossen drip leg ,turn gas on. <S> Gas will flow out pushing air while this is happening tighten drip leg. <S> Earlier post is correct small draw at pilot by opening up tje drip leg you have more flow. <S> Be sure to reseal drip leg with thread seal (pipe dope) <A> Replace the pilot assembly, I do water heater repair, that unit is actually made by A.O. Smith. <S> It’s got a 180 pilot assembly. <S> There is a little round disc that is in the line from the thermocouple that is probably bad and it won’t let the circuit complete. <A> This allows time for all the air to get out of the line and gets the thermocouple nice and hot again. <S> About 90% of the time, the propane torch works well the first time. <S> Second, if the waterheater is off longer than a few hours, you may have to relight it several times. <S> Have no explanation for this, but it's an observation after 30 years of watching renters do crazy stuff! <S> If the intervals between lightings is getting longer, I'd keep checking three times a day and relighting. <S> Third, I've had to replace two burner units due to the switch mentioned above. <S> It's fairly straight forward to replace the units, just take care to properly fit, thread, and seal the joints. <S> (Know what to do for each type of joint.) <S> Then test all the joints, including those that you didn't believe that you touched with soapy water to see gas leaks. <S> In both cases, Whirlpool was very nice about sending a new burner unit under warranty, even after they'd sent new thermocouples that didn't help!
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First, any time I can, I use a propane torch to heat the thermocouple and light the pilot.
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Can I reduce the width of a board half an inch by sanding? I am building a bed frame. Like a fool, I thought 2 x 4 lumber was actually 2 x 4 inches. Now I have a gap that is .5 inches too wide on either side of my frame. I'm wondering if there is a good fix for this without reordering more boards. <Q> It is not feasible to sand down a wooden member by a whole half of an inch. <S> If something is too thick (wide) by the half inch then rip saw off that extra thickness or use a planer to remove it. <S> If you cut something too short you will have to go get a replacement piece and <S> re-cut that to the proper length. <S> You have learned a valuable lesson here. <S> Plan out everything in advance carefully by making sure you understand what is needed and materials are available. <A> A picture would help, but I believe that you're planning on putting your 2x4 somewhere that you now need a full 2" or 4" to fill. <S> I'm not sure where sanding comes into play here, <S> but yes, you absolutely could sand a 1/2" off of a piece of wood. <S> It will take some time with a belt sander and even more time if you're doing it by hand. <S> (On the bright side, you'll build a good bicep that way!) <S> You may run into issues with keeping the newly sanded face exactly parallel to the non-sanded face, though, so keep that in mind. <S> Marking your desired width on two opposing faces of the board and sanding the down to that line on each face should do the trick. <S> Since you mention "ordering" more wood, consider going to (or calling) a local lumber mill or woodworker's lumber supply house (not your local big-box hardware store) and tell them what you need. <S> Since you're just using SPF lumber, they might be able to mill up an actual <S> 2"x4 <S> " out of something inexpensive. <S> If you're simply looking to fill a 4" gap, you may consider buying a 2x6 (1-1/2 x 5-1/2) and ripping that along its length to your desired 4" actual measurement. <S> This won't help much if you're looking to fill a 2" gap, however. <A> Another option, which will involve disassembly, is to run the 2x4 thru a table saw to remove the extra 1/2". <S> A 10" table saw won't be able to do this in one pass as the blade doesn't rise far enough to cut thru 4", but flipping the board and doing a second pass isn't too inconvenient.
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If something is too long then cut off the additional half inch using a saw.
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Electric shock through laptop case and LEDs stay dim but on when switch is off There is something wrong with the electrical wiring in my house. A few LED lamps stay on (but dim, with the intensity depending on the location of the lamp) even when off. In addition, I sometimes get shocked by my laptop case. The shocks seem to start every day at 7 PM. When my laptop case starts "leaking" electricity (that's how I interpret the shocks), the LEDs seem to be completely off. There is no equipment that I can think of in the house that would automatically turn on or off at 7 PM. There's also a CFL that sometimes flashes with the switch off, if all this wasn't weird enough. Can anyone explain what's going on and help fix it? The ground rod was changed recently, I had the grounding tested and it works fine (though I'll admit I only tested one socket, so it's possible that the socket the laptop is usually connected to is not grounded properly). Edit I borrowed a socket tester earlier today and I found some interesting things. The socket I plug my laptop in has >20V between the ground and live. To get rid of that voltage and back to around 2/3V, I have to turn off the socket's breaker and that room's lights, which are on a different breaker! Turning just one off I still get the voltage (my tester can't be more precise when over 20V). Also the tester can't get the RCD to break on that socket. It works with other circuits in the house. In the rest of the house I've measured between 2V and 4V between ground and live in most sockets, one had 10V. These measurements were made with all breakers switched on. The grid provides 230V at 50hz if it matters. Edit 2 An electrician will try to fix the issue with the two circuits being mixed up today. However I've made a discovery. I used a tool that trips RCDs and measures the reaction time. During the day, it works fine around the house (except the above mentioned circuits, but that's a different matter). After 7 pm and until the morning, I cannot trip any RCD in the house with this tool. It's like there's no grounding at all, but only at night! <Q> The tingling is lethal. <S> What saved you was high resistance on the rest of the circuit back to source. <S> This needs to be fixed ASAP. <S> It might be a leaking, faulty appliance. <S> Plug the appliance into a RCD protected outlet and next time it shocks you, it will instantly trip. <S> Into the trash the appliance goes. <S> If it's a PC, the problem is the power supply or power brick. <S> I wouldn't worry about the external RCD tester not tripping, that is the normal/correct behavior if the circuit does not have a wired ground. <S> An RCD protected circuit doesn't really need a ground to protect you, just equipment. <S> Give your grounding system a very thorough once-over <S> It seems like you are doing everything right and still getting shocks, so <S> the first place I go in that case is the grounding system. <S> It has 3 parts: the grounding electrode system from the panel to the actual earth. <S> This consists of a fairly hefty ground wire from the panel's ground bar/bus/case to ground rods, Ufer or water pipe connection into the soil. <S> We Americans are fond of two ground rods. <S> The neutral-ground bond, which connects the ground bus inside the panel to the neutral bus also inside the panel. <S> In America this is often done whimsically, by just landing all the neutrals and grounds on the same busbar. <S> But whatever. <S> It's more useful to have a distinct neutral-ground bond that you can put a clamp meter around. <S> the equipment safety grounds, which are the "third" ground wires from the panel's ground bus to all your sockets and equipment. <S> Search all of those, most especially the first two. <A> I think you need to contact a qualified electrician, someone other than the person or persons who installed the grounding rod and tested one socket. <S> LED lamps glowing dimly is often just a sign of using something like an old dimmer that is not LED compatible. <S> Getting electric shocks at 7pm is a sign that your heating is on a timer that starts it up at 7pm and maybe has a wiring fault. <S> Maybe a cheap or faulty charger that doesn't isolate the DC side properly. <S> In the UK you could maybe ask an electrician to test all the fixed wiring and provide an Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR) - there may be something equivalent in your part of the world. <A> Let's start with some basic electrical instruction. <S> If you are experiencing tingling, that means that your body has become part of an electrical system and electricity is traveling through your body and into the ground trying to complete a circuit back to your source. <S> This is called a shock hazard and even though it is only tingling right now, under certain conditions it could cause and injury or even become deadly. <S> In electrical circuitry you have parallel circuits and series circuits. <S> If you want to keep the amperage constant you wire in series. <S> Residential wiring is wired in parallel. <S> Because of the dimming of the circuits, the 7:00PM phenomena, and the fact that your grounding was recently altered. <S> I would say that right now there is some piece of equipment or appliance that comes on and it lacks a return conductor. <S> Thus feeding back on another conductor and creating a series circuit in your system (this causes the voltage to fluctuate thus the dimming). <S> One thing that is certain is that your laptop at this time does not have a ground or return except through your body. <S> I would recommend first located the defective piece of equipment or appliance, and revisit your grounding as I believe that is where your problem lies. <S> Only testing one socket won't do it. <S> Someone with experience should assist you in your trouble shooting and should have the proper test equipment (not just a socket tester or non-contact voltage detector). <S> By the way did you notice where I said it could cause a serious injury or worse? <S> This is a safety issue. <S> You need to resolve this problem immediately. <S> Hope <S> this helps and good luck.
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Getting any kind of shock from the outside of a laptop plugged into a mains socket is a sure sign of some sort of fault. If you want to keep the voltage constant you wire in parallel. All together it seems serious enough tp call in an expert.
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20amp circuits with 20amp receptacles Hi Is it a problem to have a number of 20amp receptacles on a 20amp circuit-breaker like a number of 15amp receptacles on a 20amp circuit? Or should a 20amp circuit have only one 20amp receptacle? I have read numerous electrical books looking for this answer and not see it [if it is there] Thanks for your help. Frank <Q> The only reading you need to do is NEC Article 210. <S> Specifically Article 210.21(B) (1) which states that if there is only one receptacle on a 20A circuit it must be 20A. Also 210.21(B)(3) and Table 210.21(B)(2) which tell you you can use 15A receptacles on multiple outlet 20A circuits. <S> Hope this helps. <A> First, the one-socket rule: <S> If a circuit powers one socket , and it‘s a one-eye "simplex", then the socket amp rating and breaker must match exactly, except for 40A. <S> The common plug found in American houses is a "duplex" - it has two sockets. <S> Very important. <S> A 15, 20 or 30A circuit can have any number of same size sockets. <S> * <S> There is a special exception in NEC that allows 15A sockets on 20A circuits. <S> That is a mate to another regulation (in product safety codes, not in the NEC) that requires <S> all 15A sockets must be rated for 20A passthrough. <S> That's how we get here. <S> Remember the 1-socket rule still applies , so <S> a lone 15A socket on a 20A breaker is no-go. <S> * <A> Is it a problem to have more 20 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit? <S> No it is not a problem at all. <S> With residential there is not a true limit to the number unless local jurisdiction limits the number. <S> Most of the time only 15 amp outlets are used on 20 amp circuits with a minimum of 2 but usually many more. <S> Most folks don't spend the extra on 20 amp outlets because when was the last time you actually saw a 20 amp cord connected device (fairly rare) with the exception of roasters or other large kitchen appliances so we use 15 amp outlets most of the time.
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There are other rules in NEC or building codes which, in some cases, limit how many receptacles you can have on one circuit.
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How to tap into a light switch whose junction box is already full? I have a light switch I want to tap into to add another power outlet a few feet away. I believe this switch's junction box is already too full to accommodate adding new wires. I think I would have to re-wire things so my new outlet goes to this switch instead of an existing wire, and then have that splice with the new wire in the outlet's junction box. The only problem is, the existing wires won't reach to the location of the new outlet. Is there any way to splice a wire behind the wall without using an exposed junction box (with blank wall plate) or is that my only option to be within code? Is there some other option I haven't considered? <Q> What is the size of the box holding this switch? <S> Is it 1-gang, 2-gang, 3-gang, etc? <S> Would a deeper box allow the new cable and connections? <S> There are 3-7/8" deep 1-gang boxes with a 23 cu in capacity which is higher capacity than standard. <S> Alternatively you could replace a 1-gang box with a 2-gang old work box. <S> Of course, this might be aesthetically unpleasing. <A> That switch is getting its power from somewhere. <S> Otherwise, no, you cannot have a junction buried behind a wall - that's not to code <S> and it's dangerous . <A> Yes, Tyco makes a splice for Romex which is meant to be concealed in-wall. <S> However, are you sure you are counting your cubic inches correctly? <S> Remember <S> all grounds together count as a single wire <S> pigtails do not count at all a yoke (i.e. The switch) only counts as 2 of the largest wire attached to them <S> And of course, try to use the cubic inches stamped or molded onto the box itself, rather than the codebook values. <S> That gives you credit for larger-than-stock boxes.
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Trace that hot line back somewhere to see if it's in another box that you can tap into.
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pick thickness of the engineered wood planks I'm considering to install an engineered laminate floor on the plywood subfloor, the planks vary in thickness. How do people normally pick the right thickness of the planks? I understand that there will be underlay installed as well, which has its thickness, and the laminate planks on top. However I want to make sure that new floor in room will level with the hallway which already has hardwood floor installed. So, I'm assuming the underlay will "settle down", so I should pick slightly thicker planks? Thanks. <Q> Underlayment doesn't settle or compress appreciably, and you usually won't find varying thicknesses of your particular choice of flooring. <S> Unless you have some specific height need, purchase what suits your fancy. <S> The transition between the new and old floors should accommodate, and a difference in height of 1/8" or 1/4" doesn't cause a problem. <S> If you're aiming for perfect level, you may need to install additional subfloor material before the flooring underlayment. <A> You're actually limited to thickness choices on laminate and engineered flooring products. <S> Most of them range from 5/16" to 1/2" thick. <S> In most cases, from all the flooring I've installed, flushing out a new floor to an existing floor isn't brought up. <S> Thats only if installing flooring that's of a different type than what's already there. <S> They make mini reducers to transition down from a higher floor to one that's lower. <S> For a flush floor, there's also what's called T-molding which is used to cover the expansion joint, usually 3/4", between the 2 types of flooring. <S> If flushing out the new floor to the existing flooring just has to be done, then see @isherwood's answer. <A> You will have to have some sort of "T" transition piece between your two types of flooring to support expansion fluctuations. <S> If you meticulously install it you can even go inverted "T" even with a floating floor that can be pretty unnoticeable - this is dependent on how long of a meeting point you have too between the two floors. <S> The thickness also matters in that you are installing on plywood. <S> There is just no way in the world I would recommend something as thin as 5/16" on plywood. <S> These types of laminate/engineered flooring are meant for commercial or apartment buildings or at the very least a very flat concrete slab. <S> The thinner the flooring material <S> the greater the chance that you feel "air" from the bounce you get on plywood which could lead to issues down the road. <S> Please refer to my answer here on the specifics of cheaper/thinner flooring - Low-cost hardwood flooring... <S> what's the catch? <S> Too high is fine and you can deal with that with some shingles or felt paper. <S> But if there is a requirement that you need to meet at 3/8", that is going to be hard to deal with. <S> Underlayment will add on at least 1/16" and likely closer to 1/8". <S> Also there is the "air" factor since it is floating floor. <S> You can easily test a small area of flooring and see if you put a heavy box on a floating floor it will go down 1/16" to even 1/4". <S> To answer your question though, generally thicker is better. <S> You want the thickness to be from rubber/plywood backing not MDF.
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You want the thickness (don't worry about settling) to be equal to the floor it is meeting. The thickness does matter in that if the two floors are at different levels (1/4" will be fairly noticeable), then your T transition will slope. So the only issue I see is if the wood flooring that you are meeting with is pretty low. You'd have to change brands to change thickness.
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How can I convert a single light/fan switch to separate switches? I have a single switch for ceiling fan and overhead light. I’m looking to wire to a two switch plate so I can run independently. <Q> Assuming that you currently have 2 wires (plus ground) going from switch to fan, you will need to do the following: Add a 3rd wire. <S> But it is quite likely you have a /2 cable - black (switched hot) + white (neutral) + ground in one cable. <S> In that case, replace the cable with a /3 cable - black (switched hot 1), read (switched hot 2), white (neutral), ground. <S> Remove the existing switch. <S> You may need a bigger box to properly handle 2 switches - that is based on box fill rules, which I conceptually understand <S> but I am not an expert on that. <S> Attach the black wire (hot) from the panel to either the common hot connection on the switch (some dual switches include a common hot connector, which makes things easier for situations such as this one), or wire nut (pigtail) <S> the black wire with two short black wires and attach each of those to the hot of a switch. <S> Connect each of the two switched hot wires (typically one black, one red) to the switched hot screw on a switch. <S> Use a wire nut to connect the panel white neutral to the neutral wire going to the fan/light. <S> In the fan/light junction box, connect each switched hot to one of the hot wires on the fan/light. <S> Note that the colors may vary - typically black, red or blue. <S> In the fan/light junction box, attach the white wire (neutral) from the switch box (which is connected to the white from the panel) to either the common neutral connection on the fan/light (some fan/light combinations common neutral connector, which makes things easier for situations such as this one), or wire nut (pigtail) <S> the white wire to the separate white (neutral) wires for the fan and light. <S> In both switch box and fan/light box, all grounds should be connected (wire nut) together. <S> Note that this is based on panel/power - <S> > switch box -> fan/light. <S> If your configuration is panel/power -> fan/light - <S> > switch box <S> then the setup will be a little different. <A> This is the diagram that was used to confirm my same need. <S> You may need to get some 14-3 or 12-3 wire to rewire. <S> That is what I had to do to bedroom ceiling fan because it was wired with 12-2. <S> This photo helped me better understand along with detailed instructions. <S> You will need the 12-3 wire from the switches to the ceiling fan, only. <S> Plus, this diagram assumes the power to the ceiling fan originates from the switch. <A> The other answers cover the most correct way to achieve this, but I just wanted to throw it that sometimes, running a new wire is not worthwhile. <S> That has been the case for me. <S> I instead just bought a ceiling fan with remote control, which allows you to switch light and fan separately. <S> These often come with a wall mount for the remote, so it can just be mounted next to the switch.
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If you have individual wires then you just run another wire (make it a different color from the existing wires) through the conduit from the switch to the fan.
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Are my GFCI outlets tripping each other? GFCI 20 amp breaker in main panel powers 1 bathroom on far end of house, 2 lights 1 fan on switches, and 2 GFCI receptacles. Occasionally the power panel GFCI trips. I think the GFCIs are fighting each other. I believe this is redundant and should not be wired this way because the GFCIs are causing the power panel to trip with nothing plugged in. Would it be proper to replace the Receptacles or the circuit breaker with non-GFCI? I bought this house a couple years ago, older but remodeled some years ago. Every so often the power goes out only in the Master bath when nobody is in it, so far every time it shuts off it is because of the circuit breaker tripped and not a receptacle. When everything is working, when I trip the receptacle test button it only affects the one receptacle that was tested. When I trip the circuit breaker test button it affects the whole bathroom. <Q> As long as you are sure you have a panel GFCI breaker (not AFCI (AFCI + GFCI is fine, just not AFCI by itself)) <S> then yes, you have a redundant system and can replace the GFCI receptacles with ordinary receptacles. <S> If the panel breaker is actually AFCI (and not also GFCI) <S> then it is a good thing to have but does not provide sufficient protection for bathroom receptacles. <S> If the panel breaker is AFCI or AFCI+GFCI <S> then you may have an arc fault triggering the panel breaker rather than a ground fault . <S> These are two different types of problems with different fixes. <S> The short version is: Ground faults kill people, especially in wet areas (bathrooms & kitchens). <S> GFCIs stop the power fast enough to save you from serious injury or death. <S> To work effectively, GFCIs can be installed anywhere from the panel up to the point of likely problem (e.g., the bathroom receptacle). <S> Arc faults cause fires. <S> AFCIs protect your house from burning down by detecting the problems at an early stage. <S> To work effectively, AFCIs need to be installed in or near the panel. <S> If you do replace the GFCI receptacles, I recommend getting a GFCI tester like this one . <S> After installing the receptacles, test each one (and any other receptacles that are supposed to be protected by the panel GFCI breaker) to make sure that the panel breaker does trip when it is supposed to. <S> If you find that the panel breaker does not always trip, then it may be failing and should be replaced. <A> Find out if your breaker is actually GFCI and not something else. <S> If it is, someone played a "yo dawg" joke on you: yo dawg, I herd you like GFCIs <S> so I put a GFCI on your GFCI <S> so you can trip while you trip To be more precise <S> , what happened is the guy who installed the GFCI breaker may have failed to install the mandatory "GFCI Protected" sticker on all the outlets, or the wife tore them off because they're ugly. <S> Later, someone else e.g. <S> A home inspector came along, saw no TEST button and no sticker, went "OMG <S> , this outlet is not GFCI protected" and fit a GFCI socket. <S> Stacked GFCIs won't fight each other, but they are wasteful of GFCIs, and resetting a trip that's downline of two requires a very picky reset sequence. <S> That may help you find this bug, because you can cross off any part of the circuit that's behind a GFCI that did not trip. <S> Temporarily installing redundant GFCIs is useful for troubleshooting. <S> So yes, ultimately remove either the GFCI sockets or the breaker, depending on if you want the other things on the circuit GFCI protected. <S> Damaged or old loads are the #1 reason for a trip, and that can inclunde hardwired loads. <S> Having the whole circuit on GFCI obviously enhances safety, but it also causes "bug hunts" like this. <S> To do the bug hunt, remove one load or section of the circuit at a time, and see if the trip problem goes away. <S> It lends itself to "divide and conquer", i.e. cut the circuit in half to see which half that's in, then cut that half in half, etc. <A> The GFCIs will not "fight" each other. <S> If there is a ground fault downwind from either of the bathroom GFCIs then the one to trip will be the one with a more sensitive detection circuit. <S> It is possible that one or the other of the bathroom GFCIs has developed a failure mode inside its circuitry that causes the trip of the more sensitive GFCI. <S> In addition I suppose it is possible that the failure mode in the bathroom GFCI could feasibly be so bad that the unit itself cannot trip, but you can easily check that using the test button on the bathroom GFCI in question.
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If the ground fault is between the circuit breaker panel and one of the bathroom GFCIs then the circuit breaker GFCI would be the one to trip. A GFCI will not trip on a ground fault that is not downline of it.
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How can I cut copper water pipe to add a fitting? I am used to working with PVC and CPVC, but these are copper pipes that I am thinking about adding in a water cooler that needs a water line. My question is, obviously I can't use the CPVC scissor like cutters to cut copper piping, so how would I cut the copper piping to add in a tee with 3 connections - one that goes up, one down to continue the flow as normal, and one that will come out that I can connect to the water cooler? Thanks in advance all! <Q> All depends on you. <S> You can cut the pipe with a hacksaw, Sawzall, a copper tubing cutter like these: You might have to cut a length of pipe out to fit your valve. <S> You could also use a piercing valve. <S> I don't endorse these products although good. <A> Got too long for a comment but after cutting the pipe with a pipe cutter or hacksaw and reaming this process can improve your odds of a good leak free joint. <S> Since you are new to copper I will leave this comment to help you get a good sweat joint. <S> When sweating copper pipes use plumbers cloth or a light sandpaper to clean the varnish off the fittings. <S> The pipe has to be dry to get a good seal on the solder. <S> I will pull the crust off white bread and pack the pipe on both sides to prevent moisture from getting to the joint and causing a leak. <S> Flux the joint and use a non-lead solder, heat the joint and apply the solder. <S> You are looking for it to wick into the joint and leave a slight filet of solder. <S> With the joint completed and your shut off valve installed pull the aerator off the closest faucet and flush the bread out. <S> I use this method with repairs and never have had leaks but have seen problems from 1 drop of water in the past where they used fernco hubs to seal the leak and they later failed. <S> I use this procedure and repair with no leaks. <A> It is definitely worth learning to solder if you're going to do a lot of work with copper pipe, but if you only work with it once in a while, the slip on type fittings such as Sharkbite work very well with less chance of error. <S> Even if you're proficient with solder, the slip on fittings have a big advantage for maintenance - you can work on wet pipes. <S> Slip on fittings are much more expensive than solder fittings but if you're doing just one or two fittings well worth the extra cost. <S> I won't recommend a brand due to site policies, just ask around about what brand is best. <S> A fitting such as the Sharkbit slip tee fitting can be installed in just a few minutes to install a water cooler: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOl-hJkadVM
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I find that a good tubing cutter is preferable to a hacksaw when using these fittings, because the tubing cutter makes it easy to make a perfectly square cut.
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Repairing Hole Drilled Vertically in Joist I'm remodeling my kitchen and pulled up the old flooring down to the joists. I discovered that a hole was drilled down into one of the joists, nearly 3/4 of the entire height of the joist. The joist is a 2x10, spanning 14 feet. The options I'm considering are: Add a new joist that runs the full length of this joist, glue and nailed to next to the original joist Use a repair plate Add a section of joist (3-4 ft) and connect with glue and lag bolts What's my best course of action here? Is the full length joist overkill? <Q> There's nothing about that old joist <S> that's really worth trying to restore it to full strength, which would be iffy at best. <S> I'd sister a second joist right next to it and nail it to the original - no need to glue it. <S> That should be simple, quick, and inexpensive. <S> You'll need to get the new joist in <S> so it rests on the beam or wall that supports it at either end, but that's usually not too difficult. <S> One possible confound to replacing the joist that came up in the comments: <S> if there is plumbing and / or electrical running through the joist, it may be a lot harder to double up or remove and replace the whole joist. <S> If it's a lot harder, I would not hesitate to repair the joist, I'd sandwich the joist between two pieces of 3/4" plywood glued and nailed on. <S> I'd want a minimum of 2' on either side of the damaged spot. <S> If there's not even room to place 4' of plywood, you could add 2x10s on top of 1/2" plywood or OSB and bolt the whole thing together, making a three ply flitch beam in the repair section. <S> (Flitch plates are usually made of metal, but that would be a bit over the top for weak floor joist.) <S> Keep in mind that one weak joist could cause some sag, may mess up your tile floor, etc., but it isn't going to make the house collapse. <A> I'd go with 2x10 or 3/4" plywood the full height of the joist and 18" to 24" to each side of the damage. <S> Glued & nailed to both sides of the joist. <S> No way do you need to sister or replace the entire span. <A> This is a good example of something that repair plates (Flitch plates, not nail plates) are suited to.
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You could just remove and replace the old joist, but I don't know if that's worth the trouble, the extra joist won't do any harm there.
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Bare copper wire under kitchen sink I have a bare copper wire that runs from the breaker box to the hot water hose under the kitchen sink. The electrician did this. Is this safe, if not how do I fix it? <Q> Carefully inspect your Grounding Electrode System <S> This shouldn't be it. <S> The Grounding Electrode System is a fat copper ground wire that goes from your service panel to any or all of: Ground rods outside your house. <S> Code calls for 2 rods 8' long. <S> an "Ufer" ground that ties into the reinforcing rod in your poured concrete foundation A cold water pipe where it enters the house, on the street side of the meter. <S> The problem is the utility could replace the meter with a remote-read meter, which are plastic. <S> Once it's proven out that the Grounding Electrode System is tip-top... ... <S> then any other ground wires aren't such a big problem. <S> It is likely the purpose of this ground wire is not to ground the panel to actual earth (the Grounding Electrode (GES) ... <S> But to ground an appliance to the panel (the Equipment Safety Grounding Conductor, EGC). <A> Grounds to water lines are supposed to be to cold water lines, NOT hot water lines. <S> Assuming there are no other earth grounds, this is NOT safe . <S> Not sure if you're in the USA or not, but if you are, a ground wire attached to copper or galvanized pipe MUST be connected within 5 feet of where the cold water enters the dwelling. <S> If your incoming water is not metallic, copper or galvanized, and again assuming there are no other earth grounds, you'll need at least 1 ground rod added, with a ground wire, for earth ground, possibly 2 ground rods if going by recent code changes. <S> The way this is set up now will send any voltage meant for earth ground thru your water heater which COULD end up with some getting hurt! <A> My question would be, why did someone do this? <S> If the grounding electrode system is in order, this wire would be a bonding jumper to a metal pipe and that does not create a hazard. <S> However, there is usually a jumper between the cold water in and hot water out at the water heater. <S> If the pipes are all metallic, that would make this bonding jumper unnecessary. <S> If there is a patchwork of metal and plastic pipe, it's possible this part of the hot water pipework was left floating, and needed to be bonded. <S> But again, my concern - Was this done just because someone was very on top of bonding a floating portion of the pipes? <S> Or was there a touch potential on this pipe that made it an issue, people were getting a tingle or a zap when they touched something in the sink area, and this is a band aid fix? <S> The bonding jumper may eliminate the tingle, but it doesn't fix the fault that was causing the problem - could be dishwasher or garbage disposal or who knows what. <S> I might have someone look at it, carefully - see what current if any is on that bonding jumper, what potential is on it without the jumper, and see if I can identify the ground fault. <S> But this is potentially dangerous <S> so I'd recommend calling in reinforcements - call an electrician for this one.
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That is to say, maybe that ground wire isn't there to send fault current through the water heater, but rather to prevent fault current from a troublesome hot-water-connected device (cough dishwasher cough) from going through the water heater. It's not a code requirement or a standard practice.
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The inside coil of the A/C unit has ice on it when the temperature outside is cooler than 65 degrees The inside coil of the A/C unit has ice on it when the temperature outside is cooler than 65 degrees. Freon has been added, but it has iced up again six months later. What is the problem? <Q> Most A/C units do not work well at temperatures below 65 degrees. <S> Years ago, we would install a low ambient control. <A> If just an AC unit that makes sense to me unless set up to make a "cold room" depending on the type of control (capillary tube, orifice) <S> the system may not be able to accurately meter at cooler outside temps as there is no real feedback compared to a system with a throttle valve TXV. <S> With open loop the Freon is compressed and cooled when it expands being close to 20 degrees colder ice will form if there is not enough airflow across the evaporator or the delta of tempature is two low. <S> If trying to make a cold room a shifted temp sensor needs to be used to controll the system and get to lower temps. <A> Have a tech check the high and low pressures of the refrigerant before the ice has formed. <S> Low refrigerant pressure (as from a leak) will cause the temperature of the evaporator coils to be below freezing. <S> You want the indicated pressure to correspond to a low side temperature to be 37 - 40 F.
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Ask the HVAC people that service your unit to install a "low ambient control device" to help keep the head pressure up to allow the unit to operate below 65 degrees.
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How to fix edge of tile that cracked Our tile flooring cracked and I am wondering what the best method is to repair it without actually repairing the whole tile? <Q> It would be easier for people to see what's going on if you move the rug to photograph the whole affected area. <S> It's impossible to tell the extent or location of the crack. <S> Do you have a spare tile, or can you buy one? <S> Do you know the cause of the crack <S> (like something being dropped on it)? <S> With better information, we may be able to give you a better answer, but with no other information, I would guess that either the tile wasn't properly supported, or it was installed on a surface that flexes. <S> Without fixing the cause, there is no real repair that will last. <S> Once the support surface is solid, the only repair that will look good will be replacing the tile, which is also the easiest and fastest solution. <S> That could be an improvement, but it will still be visible and won't hold up to wear. <A> lift the carpet and glue the chips back in with super glue then fill the void under the tile with two part builders filler. <S> fill under the edges of the other tiles too. <S> That stuff has a yucky chemical smell <S> so you'll probably want a window open or a ventilator running for a few days. <S> Once the filler has set put the carpet back down, you can rent knee kicker to help stretch it back into position. <A> You might consider clear silicone caulking (usually comes in a red tube and is commonly used to seal bathtub enclosures). <S> What’s nice about it is that you can squeeze it right in there, it cleans up with a damp cloth after application, and dries in 24-48 hours. <S> The clear color means it won’t detract from your flooring. <S> Cheap, easy, fast, effective, not ugly.
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If you can't find a matching tile, an artist may be able to mask the crack by painting filler to match the tile's pattern.
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Is it best practice to paint bath walls before before installing vanity, tile and sink? Should I paint the drywall walls, before installing tile, sink and vanity? <Q> Paint first You will have fewer things to mask/protect and fewer critical edges to deal with and less stuff getting in the way. <S> If you have large areas that you know will never be exposed, you can skip them - or paint them generally (e.g., roller but not brush edges; or primer only) but not worry about getting it "perfect". <A> There isn't an exact answer <S> but I can break it down for you. <S> You can always prime first. <S> Since this is 60-70% of the job with new drywall - get this done. <S> You will want to use a good primer for a wet area <S> - Killz makes a good product but if it is my house <S> I use oil based primer. <S> But the point is <S> a good primer is more apt to stain things or cause damage <S> so you get that out of the way. <S> Whether or not you put on your finishing coat is dependent on what is right next to the things you need to paint. <S> I normally always paint ceiling. <S> But the vanity and mirror and stuff like that. <S> Most of the time I paint around it. <S> The thing is there is a good chance that during your install you will scratch something. <S> Touching up is no big deal but and a big but making your touchup look like it was the same coat can be a little trickier. <S> Also if you bang something into wall it is like 5 minutes to hit it with quick dry spackle <S> then primer after and that surface will mimic the other primed surfaces... <S> You nic a wall that is painted and hit it with spackle and primer... <S> it will look like a patch job. <S> I would say 70-80% of the time I paint after but I have done some large bathrooms where I wouldn't have even thought about painting after. <A> I don't know how much it matters <S> but I would personally feel better about not painting behind where the tile would go as much as possible. <S> That could mean painting first but leaving the tiles areas as unpainted as possible or painting after tiling. <S> If wall behind toilet is painted paint that because it's hard to access after toilet is in. <S> I would rather have the tile attached to the wallboard directly if possible. <S> Paint can peel. <S> Especially in the presence on moisture. <S> If your using thinset for the tiles it contains water. <S> If the walls are already painted... <S> Not fresh drywall paint first but let paint cure fully before tiling over it. <S> Pain can should say how long till cured. <S> Not just dry but cured. <A> I prefer to paint before installing. <S> If you have to move or adjust cabinets, mirrors ect.before installation. <S> it is much easier to move. <S> On top of that it is way more easy to roll out the whole wall than to cover and tape everything off and cut it in.
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So really you have a to do an analysis of how much room you have to work with, how likely you are to mess up paint job and how much extra time it will take you to paint around things.
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Exposing a 220v socket in my condo I live in the US and own a few appliances (mostly audio) that are European, designed for 220V and don't have a built-in converter to deal with 110V. I'd like to find a way to use these in my condo, for which all regular sockets are on 110V. My understanding is that heavy appliances like heaters (and ovens, etc.) are wired on 220V and that my condo already has 220V. I have two rough plans. First plan: the heating is forced air -- it must be running on 220V as such, there must be a live wire with 220V running to the heating vent I should be able to pop the cover, find the 220V wires, and expose right next to the vent a 220V socket, with schuko to avoid mistakes this will be more efficient than having a 110/220 converter running constantly. Second plan: I have a socket that I'm happy to flip to 220V + schuko, also standing fairly close to the electrical panel there must be a guide wire running from the electrical panel to that socket I should be able to pull a wire for that socket that is on 220V. Question 1: does any of the plans make sense, and if so, which would be easier? (I may be missing assumptions on US wiring, quality of current, etc.) Question 2: my panel says "circuit directory: 120V/208V". I'm surprised by the latter (208V instead of 220V). Can I still run audio appliances off of that? This seems on the low end of the tolerance spectrum. It goes without saying that I would contract a professional electrician to do that; but before, I'd like to know if any of this makes sense. Thanks! <Q> Power service to your building includes a 3-phase, 208-volt, wye (or star) distribution system. <S> Any one condo in the building would be served by two phase conductors and a neutral conductor plus a protective earth (ground) conductor that is connected to neutral at the service entrance. <S> This system is used in some commercial and multi-unit buildings in the US, but it is somewhat uncommon. <S> If you have loads that rated to operate on 208 V, 60 Hz, it makes sense to install 208-volt receptacles for those loads if it is not too expensive. <S> If is says something like 200-240V, 50/60 Hz or 47-63 Hz, the equipment is ok for 208V, 60Hz. <S> In addition, the existing circuits are intended to serve certain loads. <S> An electrician can tell you what is involved and the cost of the wiring. <S> An electrician would not usually do that repair. <S> Read you condo association documents, wiring may be owned in common, not owned by the unit owner. <S> Your individual ownership may be only the paint on the walls inward. <S> In addition, any wiring must conform to the local electrical code and all receptacles are more than likely required to conform to Underwriters Laboratory (UL) standards. <S> Code may not allow a schuko receptacle. <A> When I moved from Michigan to Belgium to live for two years on a work assignment, I brought along several transformers in order to use our 110v computers, printer, appliances, even the vacuum cleaner. <S> A simple plug-in 1500w transformer to convert 110 to 220v will cost $50, not including shipping. <S> Be aware <S> that if the equipment has a clock in it because it will be off because of the frequency difference, if that matters to you. <A> You likely don't have 220V, but 240V available. <S> What you have is a single phase from the three in the neighborhood feeding a transformer, either on a pole or a kerbside box, that produces 240V center tapped to ground, which then can be split up into two sets of circuits that have 120V relative to the neutral - and ground (which are commoned, usually inside the breaker box). <S> The live bars are interleaved down the center, so that positioning on a double breaker anywhere connects to both of them, giving the 240V L-L supply to the heavy loads - water heater, HVAC and stove. <S> Single breakers alternate between the two to divie the load up between the two phases. <S> You can add a double breaker if you still have space, and connect the same wires that feed a specific circuit to convert it to a 240V supply, and replace the sockets with the appropriate NEMA 6 socket, and mark the white wire as live by sleeving it black, so an electrician could fairly quickly do this if you're willing to change one circuit over, otherwise it'd mean running a new wire.
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That provides 208 volts between any two of three phase terminals and 120 volts between any phase terminal and the neutral terminal. The breaker box then has two live busbars, a neutral bar , and a ground bar, with the commoning jumper between the latter two. The equipment should be marked with a voltage range and frequency. You can probably not use any existing wiring, because it is likely protected by larger circuit breakers than would be permissible for lower current receptacles and loads. In addition to that cost, there may be repair of plaster and painting required for any openings made by the electrician. Condos (and houses) typically do not have three phases available, unless specifically supplied for a workshop etc.
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Leaky drain, round 2: Trap joint won't stop leaking I've just replaced the trap on a sink drain, and I can't get the replacement to stop leaking. The leak is coming from the where the trap connects to the wall stub (circled in the picture). There is no washer here; it looks like this is supposed to be a pressure fit with the outside nut forcing the sides of the conical end on the bottom piece against the sides of the top piece. It's a great theory, but it doesn't seem to be working. I've tried reeeeeeally tightening this joint, and while that seems to have reduced the leak it hasn't stopped it. Since this isn't really a screw joint, there's no point in something like plumbers tape. Any thoughts on how I can stop this from leaking? ] 1 <Q> I'd say take it all out and start over. <S> Avoid RTV and flexible fittings. <S> Then it will easier to take apart and clean. <S> Or take apart in case you drop something value able down there. <S> Google image search "standard p trap setup". <S> Or just look under somebodies sink. <A> The next joint toward the wall is usually a slip joint secured by a plastic seal and a nut. <S> I think that this allows in-and-out and rotational adjustment which is necessary to properly position the two parts of the trap joint to achieve a seal. <S> It looks like what should be a slip joint is instead glued and fixed. <S> In order for the joint to be a slip joint the tubing used for under cabinet drain plumbing is smaller in diameter and thinner walled than the fixed drains in the walls. <S> It looks like you have used heavy wall Schedule 40 tubing for the undersink drains. <S> If this doesn't work, this would mean you need a more flexible coupling between the larger tubing and the tailpiece (the metal tube under the sink). <S> There are rubber reducing couplers that might work. <S> You'd cut off the white plastic reducer and use a flexible rubber reducing splice which seals with band clamps. <S> Or you could cut the tail piece and use a flexible coupling to make a more flexible tail piece. <S> But in the end you might have to remove all the too large tubing, put a proper slip joint on the stub in the wall and replumb with the correct (1-1/2 inch?) <S> under-sink drain tubing. <A> If you can't get that joint to stop leaking try this; remove the trap pieces and drain the water, put everything back together and add a small amount of RTV silicone to the joint and let stand overnight. <S> I had one of these that just would not stop leaking due to (?). <S> This worked for me.
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Still it is possible you could get the leak to stop if you loosen the slip joint under the sink, then tighten the union of the trap, then re-tighten the slip joint. Another possibility is to use a flexible tailpiece . Put a standard tailpiece onto the sink, a starndard trap like brhans mentioned, and a slip nut on the pipe going into the wall.
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Fill large gap in plaster with no lath An electrician recently replaced the electrical panel in my apartment and left an inch-wide gap in the plaster along one side of the box. Unfortunately, they had to cut through the lath, so there is no backing for a repair patch. I've included two pictures below. Any thoughts on how to approach a repair would be appreciated, and please let me know if you have other questions that might be relevant. Thanks! <Q> Roll up some fiberglas insulation like a jelly roll, so you can stuff it into the opening. <S> Keep it recessed about one-half inch, so it acts like a foam backer except non-combustible. <S> Make it a tight fit. <S> Remove the front cover if you prefer, and tape a piece of heavy plastic over the electricals so you can just access the gap. <S> Fill the new gap with plaster or drywall compound, flush with the existing wallboard. <S> A masking tape barrier will keep the mud from touching the panel box. <S> Re-install the front cover, then sand and paint to match. <A> How about skip the plaster and get a couple pieces of wood trim to cover the gap and frame the panel? <A> Something similar to what John said above with the addition of scrunched up metal mesh to give the plaster something to grab hold of. <S> BTW, nice work from the electrician ( <S> and yes, I'm being sarcastic...).
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Or alternatively for a quick fix, you could fill the gap with insulation and then tack wooden cover trims either side to blend in with the existing wood work below and above, paint them white and the jobs done.
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If it is not going to actively heated or cooled, is there any value in insulating a garage? In Southern California, during new construction with a finished garage, the cost of adding insulation at this point should be low. But if the space will not have any active cooling or heating elements (outside of a tankless water heater and, perhaps, a cat), is there any value in insulating it? Everyone loves going from a cool house in to a hot garage or vice a versa. Would insulating it make any difference? Would it not get as hot in the summer or as cold in the winter? Seems to me that it would retain whatever temperature it have longer (whether hot or cold) with the insulation than without, and one could "reset" the temperature of the garage by opening the door for a few minutes to the outside (for example, open it in the cool morning in the summer hoping to better maintain that during the day). Just not sure if it would be enough to notice or bother with. Historically the garage has mostly been closed vs opened several times a day for cars. Whether that will be the case at the new house is up for debate. <Q> Oh, yes It's a cornerstone of passive solar design. <S> We spent $2.4M on a large building we intend to never heat. <S> We insulated it to the nines. <S> Here's what that does. <S> This affects Condensation , which is significantly reduced or eliminated. <S> This makes life much easier for the contents of the building. <S> If you don't have enough thermal mass*, you can add some by installing large barrels of water or antifreeze. <S> * ”thermal mass" is the terminology used in building design, but it's actually a misnomer. <S> Mass/weight does not store heat. <S> Atoms do. <S> And atoms vary in mass dramatically from 1 for hydrogen to 207 for lead. <S> But an atom's heat storage ability is about the same , 20-30 j/mol/degK, most 24-26 j/mol/degK. <S> Different materials contain different mixes of atoms, so their heat capacity by mass is all over the map. <S> Water is ideal. <A> A few things come into play. <S> One is heat transfer from your home (or to it, in your case). <S> If you keep your garage more comfortable, you improve the efficiency of the home's HVAC system. <S> In my case, the uninsulated garage stays 20-30 degrees warmer than outside, mostly due to solar gain and heat loss from my home's conditioned space. <S> This means my home loses less heat through the adjoining wall due to a lower temperature differential. <S> Whether this will result in a net payoff is hard to say. <S> Another is comfort in the garage, as you mentioned. <S> You can't "reset" the garage's interior temperature in a few minutes. <S> Your slab acts as a massive heat sink, and all the garage's contents and wall structure also absorb heat. <S> This means that, while air temps may change quickly with the door open, they'll return to roughly the same temp when you close the door. <S> By keeping it cooler with insulation, which slows solar gain, it'll probably be cooler during the day as well. <S> Again, the finances are difficult to calculate because of the wildly varying factors involved. <S> If you can do it cheaply, I would. <A> We paid to insulate our garage in this house despite having absolutely zero plans to ever heat/cool it. <S> 20 years of living here <S> and I think we made the right choice. <S> The garage is south facing in a very hot climate, yet because of that insulation the temperature in there never gets nearly as extreme as it does outside. <S> Contrast <S> that with my parents house with a south facing garage with a west wall of concrete block--that would easily get as hot as the outside and in the evening it was often hotter out there than outside. <S> On the other hand, our previous house with a north facing garage we didn't insulate. <A> Remember that your attic is going to get a lot warmer than the surrounding air. <S> In southern CA especially, the sun will bake your roof and, even with proper venting, you'll still have an ambient summer temperature in the 110+ range in your attic. <S> Without insulation in the attic, you're going to let that 110+ seep through the drywall and into the garage. <S> In other words, you're potentially making your garage another near-attic. <S> This will increase your heating and cooling costs because you're baking 2 sides of your climate controlled house instead of just one (and walls are typically too small to get much more than a R15, while most attics can easily take R60 or more). <S> I would at least get an R30 over your garage. <S> Insulating your door is another option, but I find it overkill. <S> Make sure you have good gaskets around your door first.
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Extremes of temperature are moderated by building's thermal mass*, which (with the insulation) helps it resist changes in temperature.
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Replacing two 3-way dimmer switches with two non-dimmer 3-way switches I had two Lutron 3-way dimmer switches for my bedroom lights. They looked something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MAW603RH-WH-Electronics-Maestro-Dimmer/dp/B000BQMVXC I replaced the bulbs w/Philips Hue smart lightbulbs, so I needed non-dimmer switches. I bought two simple 3-way rocker switches, and tried to wire them the same way. Unfortunately, on my first try, something was wrong. When the 1st switch was up, 2nd switch could turn the lights on and off. But when the 1st switch was down, lights were off and 2nd switch couldn't turn the lights back on. So I tried moving wires around on the 2nd switch, and they behave as expected -- I can turn on/off the lights from both switches. Does the mere fact that switches behave as expected show that I wired these two switches correctly? I ask because I'm a new homeowner, and am just paranoid that I may have mis-wired something that will burn down the house one day. Thank you! (Ground wires are easy to identify, so you can assume I wired them correctly) (There were no neutral wires on both my old and new switches) <Q> You now have them correct, the one good thing with 3 wires connecting the 3 way <S> switches <S> you don't have to worry about burning things down <S> they just don't work as you found out if they are wrong. <S> Good job of figuring it out, you would not believe how many times I have been called to do what you just figured out. <A> Yes, it's fairly easy to confuse the common terminal with the traveler terminals, becuase <S> they are in a different position on every model of switch . <S> The rule of thumb is that the 2 travelers always go into the same cable, whereas the common will not, at least not at one end. <S> So for instance if one end all 3 wires (red white black) go into the same cable, and at the other end red and black go to the same cable and the other black comes from a different cable, red and black are your travelers. <S> I am a huge fan of marking travelers with yellow (or whatever) tape. <S> There is no need to distinguish them from each other, but two wires tagged same-color in the same cable are a dead giveaway that they are travelers. <A> It sounds like you mixed up a common terminal with a traveler terminal <S> The misbehavior of your original, incorrect installation makes me think that you landed your common on a traveler terminal at one end <S> (the end that was stopping the other switch from working), while one of the traveler wires was landed on the common terminal (on a 3 way switch, this is always the differently colored non-ground screw, don't pay attention to where on the switch it is). <S> As a result, that miswired switch stopped power from getting to the lights entirely when flipped to one position, as the common wire on that end was disconnected, while the two travellers were connected to each other and nothing else. <S> Now that it's fixed, there's no need to worry about the house burning down as a result of this particular oops.
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When you flipped the miswired switch to the other position, it then connected the common to the miswired traveler, allowing the other switch to control the light normally.
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How to mount powerboards with strange holes? Wondering how to mount these powerboards, with this illogical mount hole design. As seen in the picture, each of the keyholes are facing in a different directions. This makes mounting extremely tedious, and almost impossible to get straight. You can’t treat it like a regular powerboard with the keyholes facing the same way, where you just put the screws in the wall, put the powerboard on the wall, and then slot it in place. You can’t ‘slot’ it normally because you need to slot it in two different directions at once. For some reason, Australia seems to love this design, with most of my powerboards having this! Any idea why manufacturers go with this design, over having the keyholes face the same way? Any idea how to efficiently attach them? <Q> Orienting the keyways in different directions makes it less likely that an accidental nudge in any direction will disengage all the keyways at once. <S> The sharp screw points will mark the wall, indicating the proper position for the pilot holes and mounting screws. <A> The hole that slots towed the other, you put that one on the screw first . <S> Then you slide the strip over into the final position. <S> Then you line up the other screw hole, and notch it in also. <S> Then you put on a wedge of wood or angle iron to keep the power strip from coming off the second screw. <S> It cannot come off the first screw. <S> Remember to drill the holes where the screw's final position is, not where the round openings are. <A> Having two mounting holes 90-degrees different from each other lets you mount the same device horizontally or vertically without the manufacturer having to shoulder the huge cost of providing additional holes. <S> That may seem kind of stupid, but with a $10 power strip, every penny counts. <S> Which is absolutely crazy, but that's the state of mass-market consumer products. <S> But I digress.
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The best way to find the proper screw locations for devices like these, and indeed for any keyway mounted devices, is to place a short screw in each keyway, pushed all the way into the narrow end of the slot, and then press or tap the device against the wall in the desired location.
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What's the best way to remove a rusty, broken screw from a tiled bathroom wall? The previous inhabitant of our apartment used screws which aren't rust-free in the shower. Now the screw holding our shower head rail broke off - or rather, just "came off" without any resistance. The part of the screw sticking out of the wall broke off, the rest is still in the wall. this is what it looks like right now: If it's possible I'd like to reuse the hole because the upper part of the shower rail is still attached, so it's in "the perfect position" it's not like it needs to carry a lot of weight I'd like to avoid having to drill into the tile and possibly cracking it That's just the best case though and might not be possible as I can't get a good hold of the screw with pliermy general question is what to do next? . <Q> You could try a screw extractor , i have had moderate success with them. <S> You use the first end clockwise to make divot in the screw so that the second end that turns counter clockwise will have something to bite its teeth into. <S> Go slow and apply pressure into the screw. <S> In your case the head is missing so <S> it makes it very difficult but worth a try. <S> The set does not cost to much and is good to have on hand anyways even it does not always work. <A> Is there enough material of the screw shaft protruding from the surface to grip with pliers? <S> You may be able to unscrew it that way. <S> You could also convert the shaft into a slotted head. <S> Use a small cutoff wheel on a rotary tool or thin hacksaw blade to cut a slot into the shaft. <S> Use a flat screwdriver to unscrew. <S> Both of these assumes there is enough structural integrity in the shaft to resist the force needed to unscrew it. <A> If it is in an anchor you should be able to push it through into the wall cavity and put in a new one same if it’s a toggle <A> Wall tile is fairly easy to drill, even with conventional bits. <S> I'd drill a few 3/16" holes around the screw to create access for a locking plier (Vice-grip). <S> Clamp onto it and twist it out.
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You need to determine if this screw was penetrating a stud or if it is in a plastic plug type anchor or a toggle if it is in a stud move up or down a bit and drill a new hole through tile and backer then a pilot hole into stud mount with a stainless steel screw.
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How to connect router to patch panel in new home I recently moved into a new home (new build). Comcast installed my internet, but was of no help getting my ethernet working. My builder told me the modem needs to be connected in here and then the router needs to be connected to the patch panel for the room I want to have ethernet access for. I have connected the cable modem and router. Wifi works fine. I connected the ethernet cables from the port on the back of the router to the patch panel, but I get no lights on the router as you can see and I get no ethernet access. Not sure what I am doing wrong? enter image description here Adding new pictures. enter image description here <Q> I suspect this question belongs in a different Stackexchange, but then again maybe not :) <S> - Welcome to Stack Exchange. <S> Firstly, and this is just a guess because each manufacturer does their own thing <S> , the wiring in the 568A punchdown block looks like it may be wrong (swapped). <S> Check your cable, make sure it is a good cable. <S> Check the end point, try a different room and jack. <S> Ensure the wires trace out right. <S> Call contractor or rewire the patch panel and RJ45 jacks as needed, if needed. <S> Here is the link to the product install guide for the punchdown block. <S> It looks wired right. <S> Are the wired tight? <S> (Use a flashlight, look close, see if the sheathing of the wire has a blade cut through on it to ensure good electrical connectivity): <S> https://icc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/MSR-0411RevJ_DataModuleCAT5eCAT6_Installation_Instructions.pdf <S> Here is the wall jack end Datacomm product: https://datacommelectronics.com/products/keystone-inserts/category-5e-jacks/ <A> It looks like you've connected two of your router's LAN ports to two of your patch panel ports, making two of the Ethernet outlets in the house live - the back of the router isn't in the picture so can only assume. <S> Since wifi is working, you must have the modem in the WAN / Internet port of the router <S> so it isn't much of a leap. <S> Are your devices connected to the outlets corresponding to those two ports in the patch panel? <S> Hopefully the outlets are labelled to indicate the patch panel port. <S> If you're in the right ports, you have to test the cable. <S> If you're not sure which outlets correspond with which patch panel ports, you have to identify the cables and map it all out. <A> As noted by @noybman you should test a computer directly with the router in order to rule out any router or cable modem problems. <S> Once you get past that, you need to properly test the wiring. <S> The link integrity light on the router will only tell you if everything is good - a complete connection starting with a good computer network adapter, cable from computer to jack, cable from jack to patch panel, cable from patch panel to a good port on the router. <S> It doesn't tell you anything about any problems. <S> That being said, if you are using reasonable quality patch panels and you know the router works with a computer directly then the problem is in the jack/cable/patch panel. <S> Here is a sample set of test equipment (first one that came up on Amazon, not a brand I have used myself, but representative of what I am talking about): toner and cable tester <S> There are two types of testers that are useful: Tone GeneratorA tone generator produces a signal that is injected onto a cable using either an RJ12/RJ45 (i.e., phone or network cable) connector or alligator clips. <S> You use another device (they normally come in a matched set) to listen for the tone. <S> This helps you find which jack is connected to a particular location on a patch panel and helps to find broken or disconnected cables. <S> Cable TesterA cable tester can test each of the individual 8 wires in an ethernet cable and let you know which wires are connected correctly, which ones are reversed or miswired and which ones are not connected at all. <S> I have seen plenty of professionals (including electricians) who do not install ethernet cabling correctly, often because they simply don't understand how it works. <S> The mechanics are basically the same as telephone wiring, but the wires need to be paired and installed in a particular way (as labelled on the jacks and patch panels) or the connection simply won't work. <S> The last useful tool is a punch tool . <S> This is great for new installations but also if you, for example, find a pair reversed you can pull it out easily but putting it back on so that it works is hard to do without a punch tool.
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Assuming your yellow cable is good, and this cable is connected to a room with an actual device plugged in, AND the yellow cable is plugged into a LANport on the router, you should be all set. You should, if a new build, call the contractor and ask them to confirm the wiring order to the specific patch panel they used.
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New Switch for Outdoor Area Lights I'm working on replacing an old rotary timer switch with a new smart switch, that controls two outdoor area lights. However after getting everything wired up, the switch is not turning on the lights. Here's what I'm working with. Old rotary timer and wiring: There's also more info on the specifics of the old wiring in this post where I was originally asking what my options were. Outdoor area light - there are two of these that the switch controls: Here's the bulb that I recently put it one of these lights. The other one has a similar bulb that was working. New smart switch, Lutron Caseta : After wiring this up, I'm able to see the status lights on this smart switch: When this smart switch wasn't turning on the lights, I decided to go back to the basics and installed a standard switch; however, this switch isn't turning on the lights either: Any suggestions for what's causing the problem here and how to go about fixing it? <Q> I cannot answer your questions regarding the wiring and why the lights do not switch on and off. <S> But clearly there is something misunderstood regarding what wires have to hook to what in order to allow this to switch correctly. <S> With that said there are a few things that do require comment here. <S> After removal of the timer box from the wall you just have the Romex cables poking through the wall. <S> The quality of wiring workmanship in both the old timer box and the connections showing for the new switch leave something to be desired. <S> For example the wire nut does not even cover the insulation on all the wires as showing below. <S> Throw away those hard plastic wire nuts and get some of the softer plastic wire nuts that have longer skirts to cover the wires better. <S> I would really recommend another type to use for exterior lighting which is the Lutron PD-6ANS-WH. <S> This switch eliminates the dimming function and uses a neutral connection. <S> This configuration of smart switch will provide you much more reliable on/off operation for a variety of load types (which could come into play as your lighting fixture calls for a specialty type bulb) . <A> I agree with what Michael said above, I believe your issue with the fixture may be 2 part <S> now you have them on a proper switch. <S> First there is a dusk to dawn sensor <S> this light will only turn on once the light level is low enough. <S> The sensor is the black thing on top with a lense and looks like lines that is the detector. <S> 2nd mercury vapor lights take time to "strike" and warm up, some may take several minutes before much light is visible and up to 5 minutes for full brightness. <S> If you want to test the light during daylight you will need to cover the sensor. <S> A couple layers of black electrical tape work well to do this. <S> Give that a try or wait until dark as it looks wired correct but needs a box as Michael discussed.+ <A> You can't just cobble random bits together. <S> You are trying to control a Mercury Vapor light with a dimmer <S> That doesn't work. <S> I know you are thinking of that unit as a "smart switch", but it is plainly a dimmer. <S> As a general rule, if a switch is a powered switch (lighted switch, motion sensor, smart switch, dimmer, etc.) <S> that does not have a neutral wire, it is special, and must not be connected to anything except a) an indandescent, or b) LEDs listed and labeled for dimming . <S> The reason is the bulb itself must allow leakage current through the bulb, to power the switch itself. <S> You certainly never hook any dimmer or powered switch to a discharge light ... <S> Those include the fluorescent*, neon and HID families, HID includes low pressure sodium, high pressure sodium, mercury vapor, and metal halide. <S> All these have have very, inductive ballasts, which do not like having their power supply limited, and will make every effort to set the dimmer on fire. <S> To smart-control this light, you must find a smart switch specifically listed and labeled to control HID lighting, has a "ballast rating" within your ampacity (2.0 from the label x 2 = 4.0A), and takes a neutral wire. <S> If you ever figure to upgrade this light to LED, also lok for one with a "tungsten" or "LED" rating for whatever your LEDs will draw (about the same, I would think). <S> * <S> It's possible to get dimmable <S> fluorescents <S> but they use unusual control systems, not run of the mill Home Depot dimmers. <S> I've never heard of dimmable HID, except in the "indoor horticulture grow light" business, who are the only people still advancing HID technology . <A> You have a photo cell on top of that light. <S> Try it at night or turn on and climb up and check voltage at light wiring. <S> Also you need to put it on an electronic outdoor timer and not on a switch.
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The type of smart switch you are using is one designed to operate without a neutral connection and as a dimmer for indoor lighting. You are going to have to install a proper electrical box in the wall to secure the Romex cables, contain the electrical connections and provide means to mount the switch.
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Outlet in Kitchen Not Working Haven't seen my exact question answered on here so forgive me if already has been. Here's my issue - there are 3 outlets around my kitchen counter. The first is a GCFI outlet that I'm assuming has the other 2 chained two it. It works fine. The next one works fine too. The last one however does not. I checked the wires on the middle one and everything seems to look good there. There is power coming to the outlet obviously (from the GCFI outlet). The white and black wire that should be going to the last outlet (that doesn't work) has power in it too. When I check the wires out of the outlet that doesn't work for power, there's nothing. It's the oddest thing. I don't know where else the wire coming out of the middle outlet would go. All other outlets in the kitchen and even around the kitchen work fine. I guess I could check the outlet in the other room and see if it's somehow chained in the series. Not sure why it would be though. Any ideas/things I could try? It's just odd. <Q> It sounds like you have 2 outlets on one circuit (GFCI + 2nd on load terminals from GFCI) and 1 outlet that is on an entirely different circuit. <S> So there are two issues: <S> Where does "outlet 2" chain to? <S> There are a few ways to figure this out. <S> The simplest might be to push the TEST button on the GFCI. <S> That should turn off the GFCI (obviously) and outlet 2. <S> Assuming it does, then go around the house and see if you can find another outlet (or possibly even a light - that would be strange but nothing is impossible) that no longer works. <S> You should find something, somewhere. <S> Then RESET the GFCI to make sure you found the right "problem". <S> Where is "outlet 3" coming from? <S> First check the rest of the house (bathrooms, garage, circuit breaker panel) for any other GFCIs. <S> If you find any, reset them and see if that solves the problem. <S> Also, obviously, check for any regular (as opposed to GFCI or AFCI) breakers that have tripped or fuses that have blown. <S> If all else fails, then you may have a bad connection going to outlet 3 from someplace else, without anything else having failed. <S> Then you have a few choices. <S> You can either get wire tracing tools or just methodically check every outlet for backstabs or loose wires until you find the problem. <S> Which may take a while. <A> Code requires two 20A circuits for kitchen receptacles. <S> The one circuit you discuss between outlets 1 and 2 would not suffice. <S> I suspect your third outlet is on a different circuit. <S> Moreso, all kitchen countertop receptacles must be on GFCI protection. <S> Since this dead receptacle does not have its own GFCI, I suspect it is downline of a GFCI device somewhere else. <S> It's time for a GFCI hunt. <S> When chaining off a GFCI receptacle, the installer doesn't really have a choice about where to put the GFCI receptacle, so it could be somwehere goofy. <S> Also, your wiring may predate current Code requirements. <S> So it could be anywhere. <A> If back stabs were used (push in connectors on the outlets) <S> this could be your problem, but with that said kitchen counter outlets should be 20 amp circuits and those don't have back stabs.
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I would check for another outlet behind the middle or last outlet on the other side of the wall and a broken wire or loose wire nut could be the cause. If you find one, that is likely to be the source of the problem - and hopefully easy to fix. Kitchen countertop receptacles are allowed to be on the same circuit as certain other receptacle locations in other rooms, e.g. Dining room or breakfast nook.
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Do HVAC technicians need to be registered or licensed? We had several HVAC companies come out on a Sunday to look at our furnace. Unfortunately, it could not be fixed. Each contractor offered their solution and did not charge us for their time- but if they had to fix it it would be more because it was Sunday. Everyone was consistent and up front about the fees. However, one contractor demanded $225 for a 10 minute chat; if we used him he would deduct the amount. My question, is this legal? What license, registration, etc is required to do this job? In reflection, my husband realized that the guy asked what the other contractors had said and he would than reaffirm their diagnosis. Looking for feedback. Thank you. <Q> I see 2 different trains of thought on this, if I was called to do an emergency repair that is a call that can be charged for even if the unit was not repairable. <S> But if called for a quote on updating a system that would be different some do charge for quotes but take it off when they get the job, most don't charge for quotes. <S> But it sounds like an emergency call was made <S> so there could be a charge without a contract. <S> But yes contractors need to be licensed and for hvac also need an EPA license called 608 1, 2 or 3 if they have all 3 it is called a universal license, but a 609 license is also required for motor vehicles to be able to do everything. <A> Secondary to that is often issues of ensuring that they have proper insurance and after that comes "business" issues. <S> Never heard of a "must have free consult" rule. <S> When you call someone in at odd times - e.g., nights & weekends - it is often expected that the fees, whether for work or consulting, may be significantly higher than normal. <S> Any honest tradesman will be upfront about this. <S> I once had an HVAC problem one time on December 25, but my regular guy was available and we agreed on a price for a quick consult with the understanding that if he needed any parts that he didn't have on his truck, I'd be out of luck. <S> But it worked out great - for $100 <S> he figured out what was likely the problem and told me what to get <S> and I was able to get it the next day and install it myself (except when dealing with gas, HVAC repairs today aren't much different from computer repairs). <S> But there was never any idea of "sure I'll take a look for free" even though there have been other times when he has given me free estimates for jobs. <A> Most furnaces can't be fixed. <S> That's because fixing furnaces is tedious, skilled work involving low cost parts with poor markup, with a high chance of go-backs and dissatisfied customers. <S> Whereas a new furnace is simple, straightforward work, with good markups, and the manufacturer backing you up for warranty claims in the event of go-backs. <S> Even worse, if you fail to fix the furnace, he'll be dissatisfied and won't buy the new furnace from you. <S> Much smarter to position yourself to be the one who makes the commish on the furnace, so make the ask: talk him into writing off the old furnace and commit to the sale of the new furnace. <S> You really don't want the customer waffling on that. <S> So they're right. <S> Fixing an old furnace usually doesn't make much sense.
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Licensing for technical trades (plumbing, electrical, HVAC, roofing, etc.) is generally about making sure that the contractors have the background/training/knowledge to do the job in a safe & effective manner. In most places that I know of, the actual fees charged are entirely up to the business & the consumer - for example, a particular job could be time & materials or could be a flat fee, all open to negotiation between the parties.
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Protect screws in joint and make it look nicer? So this is what the joint looks like. It's solid, but as you can see, the screws are exposed so they'll be rusting pretty soon. Also, the joint looks horrible. It's PT wood. What can I buy to make it look nicer, and the same time, strengthen it? <Q> Is that a hand rail of some sort? <S> I would not want PT wood on a hand rail, the chemicals used to treat it are dangerous for human skin contact. <S> Offset the joints so that they don't line up with these joints and you kill two birds with one stone. <A> That joint is not very strong and it wouldn’t take much to blow it out, replace the boards and use a half lap joint ( even a butt joint with wood that doesn’t have it Ends all <S> chewed up would be better than that ) and use exterior grade deck screws that won’t rust, they are made to withstand the elements. <A> Get some DAP woodfiller from any home improvement store and fill the holes and then sand it smooth. <S> Then if I was you, I would paint it to make it look nicer, because it wont look great, but the screw will be covered.
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If it is a hand rail, I would get a better untreated wood that can cover over the entire arrangement, then use a safe stain or sealant on that new wood.
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Can I run PEX directly into my clothes washer? Aside from the difficulty of finding the right fitting, is there a specific reason I need to connect my clothes washer to the taps via a hose instead of directly via PEX? I ask because hoses are regarded as a poinit of with a high likely hood of failure. Given PEX and PEX fittings tolerance to bending, freezing, and their ease of rotation around a joint, it seems like PEXing directly into my washer would be preferred vs spending $100+ on fittings, valves and hoses to do it the traditional way. My thought was to T off a supply line and use two elbows to ensure flexibility in all directions. After the 'T', I'd have 2.5 feet of PEX that I won't strap down to allow flex in the 'y' and 'z' directions, and then an elbow and another 2.5 feet before the shutoff valve to allow flex in the 'x' and 'z': Fittings If it is okay to connect directly, is it okay to use a plastic elbow? (the male connection on my clothes washer is plastic) such as the sea tech one pictured below, or should I use brass only? <Q> Aside from the fact that I don’t think it would be allowed by code it would be inconvenient and <S> if there was ever a problem with the mechanics inside your machine and water started spewing out all over your floor you wouldn’t have a way to shut it off or disconnected easily. <S> Trying to save money now may cost you more money in the long run. <S> Buy stainless steel braided hoses and if you’re still worried get an auto shut off water detection system. <S> Do it right once or do it wrong once <S> and then do it <S> right the second time. <A> I think it's a good idea, though I've never seen a washer hose fail ("high likelihood" is probably still point-zero-zero-something percent per year). <S> Some caveats: Pex, while fairly flexible, probably isn't going to take repeated long-term movement like rubber or vinyl. <S> Leave enough of a loop between the wall and the machine so that no part of the tube is regularly stressed by the natural vibration of the machine (and you moving it to clean out dust bunnies). <S> You might find that you wish you had shutoff valves close at hand. <S> In fact, it may be required by code. <S> Pex, being stiff, may want to jump around a bit when the machine opens and closes its internal valves. <S> This could cause some slapping behind the machine. <S> You might need to secure the lines to prevent them doing so. <A> Therefore not breaking the pipe or elbow, or slipping off the pipe at the connection point.
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All though I am not sure if this is a code enforcement issue, the one issue I see is the flexibility of the hoses to allow the machine to "wobble" or "jump" when out of balance.
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Should a chainsaw go dull so quickly? I recently moved to a new home which had a lot of felled trees which needed to be bucked up into logs. I bought a 14" Husqvarna 967158004 to accomplish this. The shop I bought it from gave me a lot of maintenance information which was greatly appreciated because I don't have extensive experience with chainsaws. I have checked chain tension before and after every use and kept the chain oil reservoir full. My concern is that after what couldn't be more than 8 or 9 hours of use, the chain already seems to have trouble cutting ( Engine is good, this is a cutting issue ). Is this typical wear I should expect? Do I need to replace the chain or should I sharpen it? I know it can be resharpened, but is it worth doing so? <Q> Yeah, when I first started using chainsaws, I was naïve to the idea of "sharpening a chain". <S> The very fact that you were able to get 9 hours out of it <S> tells me you were like me. <S> My first chain, the chain cut subtly worse and worse and worse and worse, and I didn't realize it, because like the frog in the cookpot... until I couldn't stand it anymore. <S> First I paid the local lawnmower shop to sharpen them. <S> Then I discovered my local Stihl dealer would swap me for a new chain for $10. <S> After about 3, he sold me some chain files. <S> Then I found a $6 flat file holder that makes filing much easier. <S> Files are a consumable, and I don't even try to adjust chain height: <S> when the height is low I just go back to the Stihl dealer and get a new chain. <S> Now, I can't stand how badly my chain cuts after even an hour. <S> I typically give it a quickie sharpen everytime <S> I add chain lube, and it cuts like a lightsaber again. <A> I would say your blade is indeed dull. <S> The catch on what to do from here is dependent upon how often you intend to use the chainsaw. <S> If this is a one-off project, you're probably better off buying a new chain. <S> If this will be a regular thing, I would buy some tools to sharpen the blade. <S> The cost of a new blade is comparable to what you would spend on sharpening tools. <A> I suggest you buy files and do the resharpening manually. <S> It saves some bucks and time. <S> If you don't want to do the labor, there is electric chain sharpener which works pretty good. <S> I always keep 3 extra chains with me. <S> When one gets dull, I replace it and continue the cutting. <S> At night, when I come back home, I sharpen them all one by one.
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Any blade (even a lawnmower) will dull after constant use, but a chainsaw is doing a lot of work, and most of it by the blade.
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Are Sonoff smart switches actually UL listed? Sonoff is a system that comes up often on this stack. However, I notice it seems to be of unusually low cost, not available in retail shops, sold widely in the "dodgy side of the internet" (eBay, Amazon Marketplace, Ali, etc.), and I only ever see the fairly meaningless CE mark on it. The very first rule in NEC makes use of approved equipment mandatory. Virtually all authorities required for "approving" things delegate the job to UL and other reputable testing labs such as CSA, TUV etc. Is Sonoff equipment actually listed by UL or other reputable testing lab? <Q> <A> But the NEC only applies to premises wiring, so these devices that must be hard-wired into your house would not be code compliant. <S> It would not apply to anything that is "plugged in" to a wall socket or screwed into a lamp socket. <S> Where UL / NRTL listing of plug-in devices does play a part however is in your homeowner's insurance. <S> UL stands for Underwriter's Laboratories, as in insurance underwriters. <S> If something causes a fire and the insurance carrier does an investigation and can trace the source of the fire to a non-listed device, they can refuse to pay out on the damages. <S> That happens more than you might think. <A> Sonoff currently is not UL listed (one reason the cost is low due to not paying to work on getting the certification and testing to receive the approval) <S> If you are looking for UL listed products then carefully check specs and do not hesitate to contact the manufacturer.
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The NEC does not require UL listing, but it may, depending on the type of product, require "listing" by what's referred to as an "NRTL", Nationally Recognized Testing Lab, of which UL is the most widely known. No listing for UL, ETL or CSA listing just the meaningless CE , I also did not see an FCC certification when trying to look up their noise emission / bandwidth certification, these things should not be any place other than China.
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Are loose teeth in a saw blade a safety concern? When I watch videos on using a table saw safely, it almost always is about kickback.I realize, that kickback is the most dangerous hazard, but are loose teeth, that could become projectiles, when disconnecting from the blade really no issue ? For example in case of an manufacturing defect. Or am i missing something? <Q> It would be anybody's guess as to where the loose tooth would fly if it came off the blade. <S> As many readers here may know the most popular blades in use today are the type with carbide tips bonded to the tooth cutouts on a blade core. <S> It is possible that there is a history of table saw safety over many years that has contributed to the current body of knowledge, articles and videos. <S> Historically the saw blades in use twenty or thirty years ago were much more likely to be steel blades with teeth that were sharpened and set with alternate facing cutting edges that were bent slightly in each direction from the plane of the blade body. <S> It is much less likely that a tooth on a blade would come flying off when the teeth are all cut and formed from the core material of the blade. <S> So in the past it was less likely that saw blade destruction would be stressed in any particular way in safety information. <S> It is also true that warnings about trying to use blades that are dull and worn would have been more prevalent. <S> The modern carbide tipped saw blades in common use today stay sharp much longer. <S> And even if they do become slightly dull the integral design of the blades upon which the carbide tips are mounted prevents a lot of the binding of the saw blade in the kerf that is experienced with an all steel <S> saw blade when the teeth have lost most of their set. <A> In theory it's not a serious issue. <S> The tooth of a table saw blade travels at a linear speed around 146 feet/second, so if a tooth suddenly came loose you'd be faced with a tiny piece of metal travelling just under 100 mph. <S> In reality the most likely result is it breaks and lodges in the wood when entering the kerf, or exits the kerf and travels straight down. <S> [FWIW the teeth of a 7.25 circular <S> saw blade would seem to be more of danger since they're similar size and run at much higher rpm.] <S> While a hundred mile an hour tooth sounds bad, it's not a huge amount of kinetic energy. <S> It's much less than a baseball, probably more than a pellet gun. <S> (A smaller mass travelling at 750 ft/s.) Certainly enough to merit eye protection, but highly unlikely to kill or seriously injure. <S> A much larger concern would be some sort of catastrophic blade failure flinging both lumber and large pieces of metal around. <S> Large kicked back pieces have quite a bit more kinetic energy than a tooth. <S> A prudent precaution is to let the saw spin freely for a bit prior to cutting. <S> Grinders, which use resin blades typically suggest allowing the blade to run for 15s away from your face to be sure the glue isn't failing before you start grinding. <S> The real danger with a table saw is that accidents happen quickly in close proximity. <S> That's compounded by the fact that the saw typically has enough power to accelerate anything on it to 100mph. <S> While a tooth may present a limited danger getting hit by a 2x6 at 100 mph is an entirely different ball of wax. <S> (Big leaguers shrug off baseballs, but don't want to be hit by a car travelling the same speed!) <A> The biggest problem with them is that they go missing on modern blades easily, causing kickback. <S> Remember, the teeth are typically soldered on and if they come off, it's most likely going to be at the point of contact with the material you're cutting. <S> I recently had my miter saw kickback. <S> I had bought a cheaper blade and discovered that several teeth had come off. <S> None of the teeth I found were more than a foot from the saw. <S> If you want to reduce the chance of missing teeth, try buying higher quality blades. <A> Anything coming off the blade is a problem, for sure. <S> With table saw blades, though, there is little chance of that happening, so it doesn't get as much attention. <S> Kickback is a much more prevalent issue, therefore it gets more attention. <S> Kickback (and most other well-known table saw dangers) is a preventable danger (for the most part), while a manufacturing defect is all but undetectable by the end user. <S> You can certainly inspect the blade before use, to look for signs of metal fatigue, loose teeth, or other dangers, but most table saw blades are thrown out because they become dull, not because they break. <S> Of course, if you happen to hit a piece of metal you'll most certainly want to inspect your blade and perhaps replace it, but during normal use the blade will remain in one piece, almost guaranteed.
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Loose teeth on a modern table saw blade are indeed a thing to be concerned about.
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What Type of Ducting Should Be Used for a Bathroom Exhaust Fan? I'm planning on installing a Bathroom exhaust fan (Just a note, the port is 4") and am curious as to what kind of duct should be used. I've heard that the duct should be insulated to prevent water backflow from condensation during the colder months as my attic is not environmentally controlled. The New York winters can also be rather cold sometimes, so this is especially a concern. I heard that code requires a rigid tube similar to aluminium. What kind of duct is typically used for these installations? (Home Depot recommendations would be most appreciated because that's where I plan on purchasing the other components) <Q> I used insulated flex ducting like below for my bath vents. <S> Try to keep it flat or sloping toward the outside to avoid condensation pockets. <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-4-in-x-12-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R6-Silver-Jacket-F6IFD4X144/203420974 <S> Edit 1 <S> : I'm not familiar with a code that requires rigid ducting for bathroom fans. <S> (Mass local here)Unlike dryer ductwork, it's not going to be subjected to high heat or a potential for significant lint accumulation. <S> That said, there is nothing stopping you from using regular rigid metal ducting. <S> (rigid plastic ducting eg: pipe, might even be acceptable) <S> I'm looking to use some on my dryer ductwork, if I ever get the energy to go back into my attic. <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-Dia-R-6-Ductwork-Insulation-Sleeve-INSLV8/100396954?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal3_rr- <S> -302000644- -100396954-_-N <A> Most places don't require rigid ductwork. <S> it also appears that 2014 NY code doesn't either 603.6.1 Air Ducts <S> Air ducts shall be permitted to be rigid or flexible and shall be constructed of materials that are reinforced and sealed to satisfy the requirements for the use of the air duct system, such as the supply air system, the return or exhaust air system, and the variable volume/pressure air system. <S> And Class 0 or Class 1 rigid or flexible air ducts tested in accordance with UL 181 and installed in conformance with the conditions of the listing. <S> As DaveM noted, insulated lines are your friend, especially in NY in the wintertime. <S> But be sure to exhaust your line through the roof, if able. <S> Exhausting through the soffits is an invitation for the warm, moist air to re-enter the roof through the attic vents and cause mold ( this video illustrates the problem ) <A> The Code requires a minimum of 50 cfm for toilet rooms WITHOUT baths or showers and a minimum of 80 cfm WITH a bath or shower. <S> (See Section M1507) <S> (See Table M1506.2) <S> There are other allowances for exhausting distances, up to 3 elbows, etc. too.
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There is also available pipewrap insulation, Likewise, the Code requires a minimum of 4” flex or smooth duct for exhausting up to 50 cfm and a minimum of 4” metal smooth or 5” flex duct for exhausting 80 cfm and 4” smooth nor 5” flex is not allowed for 100 cfm.
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What kind of glass should I use for insulating a garage door window? While insulating my garage door, I'm considering replacing the existing plain glass with something better. I'm considering replacing each pane, or simply attaching a second layer on the inside of the door, to create a double pane effect. What kind of glass should I use for insulating a garage door window? <Q> That would be double pane or triple pane, gas filled windows, but you would likely have to have them custom made. <A> You shouldn't alter a garage door at all . <S> If you change the weight of the door, you will mess up the counterweight. <S> Many people do not realize this because they've never lifted a garage door (the opener does all the work)... <S> but a garage door is balanced . <S> You should be able to open one, certainly a residential one, with one hand, and if you move it to a height, it should stay there . <S> That is where spring rate comes into play. <S> The door must be "balanced" (weight of the part of the door that is on the vertical equals spring tension) through the entire range of motion . <S> You have some limited range of adjustment on the spring. <S> But go too far and you get a tilted spring rate: <S> the door wants to spring upwards when near top, and drop when near bottom. <S> Or the reverse. <S> That is when you need a different rate spring. <S> Garage door insulation kits exist, but they are designed to be of trivial weight. <S> Garage door safety is serious business, and the counterweight stores a lot of energy. <S> It's most dangerous to people trying to service the counterweight mechanism. <S> It's less about the spring grenading, and more about the door making unexpected movements, in particular, unexpectedly dropping. <S> I recall one building where some epsilon-minus designed the opener to act on the spring shaft instead of the door. <S> Terrible design. <S> Left free to move , the cables, drums and spring shaft are fast enough to keep up with any door movement. <S> Not in this case. <S> When the door is all the way up (stored horizontal), it is lazy about coming back down. <S> Turning the counterweight shaft didn't move the door, it only slacked the cables , which is a cardinal sin because then, the cables pop off the drums. <S> When gravity finally took the door, it dropped like a guillotine. <S> Doors kill . <S> If you want a better insulated window door, figure out who made your door and consult with them about available options. <S> They may sell door panels that do what you want cheaper and with less of your time than you could build one. <S> More importantly, they could consult with you about any spring changes that would be needed. <S> Springs are deadly and are not to be trifled with. <A> Don't use glass if possible, use clear plastic (acrylic, poly-carbonate, etc...) instead.
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For reducing thermal loss, glass is a really poor thermal insulator compared to plastics.
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Wiring change 4 prong to 3 prong Can I change a 4 prong wiring to a 3 prong on a washer/dryer combo? Would it be the same procedure as it would be if it was just a 240 volt dryer? <Q> The new code requires that all 240-volt residential appliances that require a neutral to also have a separate properly sized ground wire present as well. <A> You would never do that. <S> Changing the dryer cord is a straightforward procedure, and it can be done safely without any risk of exposure to power. <S> The 3-prong connection is obsolete and hazardous, and was outlawed 20 years ago in new construction and remodels. <S> I'm sure your dryer was first installed into an older home that had one, and at the time, its factory 4-prong cord was changed to a 3-prong. <S> Change it back. <A> I think there could be two meanings to this question. <S> Can I change a 4 prong wiring to a 3 prong on a washer/dryer combo? <S> If @P Lentz is saying the cord on the combo washer/dryer is a 4 wire <S> and he wants to change it to a 3 wire. <S> Then the answer would be <S> no since the 4 wire cord is indicating that 120/240V power and a neutral is needed. <S> Therefore it cannot be connected to a 3 prong receptacle 240V power since that receptacle configuration does not support a 120/240V connection without violating the current NEC.
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Instead, you would change the cord on the dryer to 4-prong.
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Is it acceptable to use a lighted switch with a switched outlet? The bedrooms in our house in California each have a light switch that controls power to an outlet in the room. The switches are the single-pole type, interrupting the black/hot wire. Is it acceptable to use lighted switches in this situation? (E.g., a Lutron single-pole switch with indicator light.) I replaced the switch with a lighted one, and it seemingly works, but the outlet reads as open-neutral when I plug in a receptacle tester when the light switch is in the off position. I guess this is because the indicator light inside the switch probably draws current from hot and ground. What I don't know is if this arrangement is a problem or against code. UPDATE : I tried replacing the lighted switch with an otherwise identical non-illuminated switch, with no other changes made, and lo and behold, the tester does not read open neutral when the switch is in the off position. FWIW, the tester that I'm using looks very similar to this: Also, because my description was unclear about the switch I mean, here's an image taken from a Leviton website (not the same brand but same idea): <Q> I see no problem with installing an indicator type one pole switch to control a receptacle. <A> That type of tester will not be reliable with a lighted switch which lights by placing the switch's light in series with the lamp . <S> This is an archaic design method, which depends on the load being an incandescent light. <S> It can also work with a CFL/LED that is designed to tolerate such leakage current. <S> Lutron makes such special sockets and plugs. <S> You would get more coherent answers by rubbing an actual magic 8-ball against the receptacle 3 times. <S> The center yellow connects hot-neutral, the end yellow connects hot-ground, and the red connects neutral-ground. <S> the ones which do not have 2 yellow lights have embedded computers inside. <S> They make things much worse, because they deny direct access to the lights. <S> They are usually wrong but sometimes like "Rain Man", at the end of the troubleshooting we go "could that computer have detected that? " <S> But this thing is not J.A.R.V.I.S., to be sure. <S> Its silly indications, like the other's legends, are more likely to misdirect. <A> I believe your outlet tester is not able to detect the wiring properly when there is not full voltage available. <S> These are a crap shoot at best. <S> Many switches that use electronics and no neutral do this exact same thing and they are listed and safe to use. <S> As long as your outlet test good when powered up I see no problem. <S> Note the outlet testers are usually correct when they think the circuit is correct <S> but if there is a fault detected I find them wrong much of the time for the actual fault they show.
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You certainly should not do this trick with any other load, so change the receptacle socket to one which is keyed so only lamps will fit. YES it is ok to have a lighted switch on an outlet. However, for the simple type with yellow yellow red , the lights are fantastic. Generally, these "magic 8-ball" testers suck for one of two causes: for the simple ones, their legends suck , hence the name "magic 8-ball" tester.
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Getting Best Signal With RG6 I have recently "cut-the-cord" and have dropped my TV service through my provider, so the only need for a RG6 cable is my cable internet service. My set-up is that the "orange" cable that leads from the pole to my house connects to a 6-way splitter like this: Cables run all through the home, but the only one that matters is the ONE cable that connects to the modem. My question is, will I see a difference if I continue to use the 6-way splitter, or if I change to what I'll call a "coupler" like the image below: Will I see any increase in modem signal/internet performance etc etc if I switch to the "coupler"? <Q> You can tell via a speed test, which is readily available on the web. <S> However, reliability will be improved by replacement. <S> If you install the coupler, save the splitter for possible future applications <A> You'll want a splitter where the -db is smaller. <S> The bigger the -#, or smaller, the more signal that is lost. <S> I personally choose a -3.5 splitters and run 1 specifically to the modem and then the other to another splitter for the tvs. <S> It starts at 0 from the orange cable. <S> There is good article over at <S> http://eqrunner.com/CrewNotes/CNCoaxsplitter.php <S> that goes into all the details. <A> By eliminating the splitter your signal will be stronger at the modem. <S> The question will be do you need a stronger signal?
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As long as you are getting an acceptable signal level at the router, replacing the six-way splitter with a coupler won't accomplish much.
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How can I repair this sagging gate door without replacing it completely? This gate is rubbing up against the wall of this house, and the locking mechanism is on the incorrect side of the post where the lock is and now the gate will not correctly open. I think the problem is just that the gate is sagging. How would you go about a cheap fix? I think I just need something on the bottom of the gate to slightly raise it. It looks like there is already something there that was supposed to serve this purpose, but it is not raising it enough. I have circled that piece in red. Perhaps I just need one that is longer, but i don't know what the name of that piece is. Can anyone help me? <Q> These kits will allow you to tension the gate and remove the sag. <S> You will need to adjust the latch but without the sag the gate would swing normally. <S> Link not working right but <S> Google ace gate anti sag kit 13.99$ <A> You need a turnbuckle . <S> Aquire one roughly the length of the gate's width, and install it from upper left to lower right on frame members. <S> Tighten to lift. <S> If necessary, extend it with some lightweight chain, stiff wire or cable. <S> I see that there's a notch in the gate that should correspond to the brick ledge. <S> This fix should bring that back into position, eliminating the rubbing issue. <A> The upstairs doors in my house all got to sagging like that. <S> The hinges looked fine but in fact had come loose. <S> The wood of the door jamb was soft and use had wiggled the screws loose. <S> For sure your jamb is soft too. <S> I bet the same has happened with your gate. <S> In fact it looks as though the top hinge has either been replaced or moved - there are two holes from the old hinge position visible in the photo. <S> Maybe whoever did that fix is the one who hung it back with the latch on the wrong side. <S> Here is an easy thing to try. <S> Prop up the far end of the gate <S> so you don't have the whole weight of it on just one hinge when you unscrew the other. <S> Unscrew one of the hinges from the support post, pack a bunch of long splinters or toothpicks in the screw holes to make it snug, then screw it back on. <S> Repeat with other hinge. <S> If that works, that's your answer. <S> The second time I had to do that in the house <S> I filled the holes with these hole anchors: source <S> the idea being the anchor would not compact and loosen the way the soft jamb wood did. <S> So far so good.
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I would purchase a kit that has a steel wire and turnbuckle setup attach to the hinge side top left and the bottom right, some of the kits have turnbuckle the wire rope clamps and brackets to screw into the frame work for under 20$.
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Can dielectric grease be used in coax connections? I have two coax cables that need to splice together. I am using waterproof F-type connectors but I was wondering if a dielectric grease where the two screw in to each other would be harmful (signal issues, .etc.). This is the product: https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-3-3-oz-Technician-Grade-Dielectric-Grease-05113/206843029 <Q> Living and working as a cable television technician in a beachside region, I can attest to the value of the silicone dielectric grease for improving the lifespan of these connections. <S> Salt air eats everything in time, yet the grease prevented corrosion after five years. <S> The fittings were assembled with "boots," rubber covers which resemble spark plug wiring ends. <S> The grease was applied liberally, inside and out, and the boots then slid over the fittings. <S> Sun, salt, sand and wind would eventually deteriorate the rubber, but even then, the fitting within the mass of grease held up quite well. <A> I have never used it and am not familiar with the ingredients of that product but generally where RF is concerned you do not want to add something that was not already called for in its application. <S> You said the connectors are water-resistant (water proof is hard but not impossible). <S> Adding anything at all will introduce performance changes and not for the better (i.e., its not going to boost the signal without active components), it will likely add some filter/tuning impacts but not something you can really control and again, not for the better. <S> Why add it? <S> Is there a different problem you are trying to solve? <S> Use it sparingly on the outer female threads only. <S> Pay mind to avoid the center conductor and the insulator between the threads and the center. <S> Also avoid the very first thread to avoid sandwiching it into the insulator or center connector when tightening it. <A> Consider STUF dielectric filler, Made for coax, Saw a new video on it : <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l0PqZr8-_o <S> There's footage of a coax male end packed with the filler which is white in color. <S> The claim in the video is Prevents moisture infiltration by occupation <S> The packaging reads Dielectric water proofing filler: for coaxial connections. <S> With Teflon. <S> The company website links to www.crossdevices.com and coax does seem to be a specific and focused application of theirs. <S> STUF is actually an acronym <S> Silica Teflon Unionizing Filler <S> They claim to match the dielectric constant and impedance matching to the polyethelyne insulating foam surrounding the conductor.
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If you are aiming for an anti-sieze application, it could work, just read the product label to ensure it doesn't react with the coating or metals used on the connectors and barrels you are using.
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How can I fill a wheelbarrow tire when the bead is gapped away from the rim? I have this wheelbarrow with tubeless tire, I had to replace it with the new one, however I don't see how to pump it! The tire is quite stiff, and it was tricky to put it on the rim, but now it looks like the tire isn't well adjusted to the rim. Did I do something wrong? How do people normally pump this type of tires? <Q> Looks like the typical gap one gets when mounting a tubeless tire. <S> You'll need to get the bead to seat against the rim as you pump air (hopefully quickly) into the tire - a hand pump might not do it. <S> Using a clip-on tire chuck will help. <S> Some folks "squeeze" the tire with a strap around the tread area. <S> I've seen a device called a bead expander, and <S> this guy shows the use of some large tie-wraps to achieve the same thing. <A> If you're not afraid of a little fire then this could work: https://youtu.be/DJiqbAVsxRY <S> Put on some safety glasses, preferably tinted Put on some rubber gloves <S> Put on some ear protection <S> Have a water hose <S> ready Spray <S> some highly flammable aerosol into the rim of the tire such as carb & choke cleaner or WD-40 per the video <S> Place aerosol can at least 20 feet away from the tire Remove your rubber gloves <S> just in case they have any aerosol on them; <S> melting rubber on your skin is not a pleasant feeling Cover your eyebrows with a damp bandana or damp towel or something <S> Get some fire near the tire <S> Try closing your eyes or turning your face away from the tire right before ignition <S> I would advise against using your aerosol can as a flame-thrower <S> but it does add a certain coolness factor <S> You can just toss a lit match in the general vicinity of the tire (try not to land the match inside the tire or else <S> you'll get rattling noises when using the wheelbarrow) <S> You can light a stick or newspaper on fire and bring it close to the tire <S> You can fire up a propane torch if you feel comfortable <S> The aerosol remnants should immediately ignite drawing a vast amount of air directly into the tire; this is where that safety equipment comes in handy <S> If you chose the match ignition method or any other "toss a burning object at the tire" method then exercise extra caution because the tire's rapid expansion could send the burning object flying right back at you <S> You may need to squeeze the tire around a bit to introduce more air to the fire to achieve the desired woosh of air. <S> You should do this by beating the tire with a long stick to avoid personal damage in the event of a tire explosion. <S> If this doesn't work then spray with water <S> , let it dry, and go back to step #5 <S> Once the tire seats itself then the fire will suffocate inside the tire <S> If the outside of the tire or rim is on fire then spray it with some water; you may wish to spray with water even if it is not burning Inflate the tire to proper pressure <A> Take it to the local tire store, and ask them to inflate it - they'll use their bead-blaster machine to mount it. <S> Should be little to no cost. <S> The next time it happens, ask the tire store to put an innertube in the tire. <S> That solves the problem forever. <S> (Only do it the 'next time', because it may never happen again..) <A> I've had decent luck using a couple of plastic bags and even saran wrap. <S> I rolled them up and placed them near the rim so that it fills in the gap enough to get a better seal. <S> The pump then works well enough to expand the tire. <S> The gap shown in the photo is small enough for this trick to work. <S> Long term solution is to have it filled with foam. <A> The people who recommend a strap around the perimeter of the tire are correct, and such straps, often inflatable, are made for that purpose. <S> However, a couple of times in a pinch, I have removed the belt I was wearing and wrapped it around the tire and pulled it in as tightly as I could. <S> This has actually worked for me. <S> You should probably removthe valve stem to let the air in faster and thus with more force. <A> I've likewise used my belt. <S> Put the belt around the tread of the tire, squeeze the tread inward to get the bead to push out and set against the rim. <S> Then inflate the tire. <S> I've had to do it several times over many years, with the same tire. <S> The tire holds air just fine, for months, even under weight. <S> But after going un-used for several seasons it eventually leaks out, enough to loosen the bead and lose the rest. <S> A strap with a come-along ratchet is easier, but a regular waist belt works in a pinch. <A> Invert wheelbarrow <S> Align the tire to the rim (as shown in the first photo, above) While adding air using an air compressor, give the tire a sharp rap with your fist Adjust tire to proper pressure
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Sometimes you can jiggle the tire to effect a temporary seal around the bead as your compressor dumps air in.
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Different gauges of wire My house is 54 y/o. Years ago the circuit panel was upgraded to all 20 amps with the exception of the AC and oven. I am adding a can light which uses 12 - 18 gauge wire. I chose 14 gauge. I am wanting to tie it in to the existing on/off switch which I believe may be wired with 12 gauge wire. Is it safe to tie in the 14 gauge to the 12? <Q> No, you may not use 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit. <A> Go for it, but you will need to change the breaker in that panel to 15A . <S> Also put a tag on the #12 wire going to that breaker that says "#14 wire in circuit". <S> Also, if the hardwired loads on that circuit total 7.5A or more, you cannot have any receptacles at all, or the loads must be changed to smaller draw loads. <S> Still want to do that? <A> What does the switch currently switch? <S> Were you going to do the splice at the existing light fixture or in the box itself (not sure why you'd do this, and you'll probably have space or missing neutral issues). <S> You should check the breaker that controls the switch's circuit. <S> If it's 20A (likely with 12 gauge wire) and you want to continue with 14 gauge wire, you must verify your loads and downsize the breaker to 15A. <S> You're probably better served just continuing with 12 gauge.
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You need to use 12 gauge wire. If your existing wiring is aluminum, you must also splice to new copper wiring with a Al/Cu nut to avoid corrosion. Also, any 20A receptacles on that circuit (Ms. Winky) must be changed to 15A receptacles (Ms. Horror).
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What happens when using a GFCI Tester on a non-GFCI outlet? I have an outdoor power outlet of which I'm not sure if it's GFCI or not (House was built in 1978). The outlet does not have Test/Reset buttons, but I don't know if outdoor outlets even have them. There's no labeling for GFCI anywhere,. So I'm looking to purchase a GFCI Tester. (Those little three-pronged things with 2 yellow/1 red LED and a button) But I'm not sure what should/would happen if I press the GFCI Button and the outlet is not actually GFCI. Should it trip the breaker in the breaker box, or should it do nothing and the LEDs on the tester just stay on? <Q> If the outlet, does not have test and reset buttons, it is clearly not a GFCI itself. <S> However, it is possible that another outlet or circuit-breaker in the line before <S> it has been wired to protect that outlet, as well. <S> That said, an outdoor outlet definitely should have GFCI protection, whether 'upstream' or intrinsic. <S> If the GFCI tester does not trigger a protection device, a GFCI outlet should be installed ASAP! <A> The "gfci" plug in testers put a resistor from the ground to hot in most cases to pull 6 ma of current this creates an imbalance that will trip every GFCI out there, if there is no ground the testers don't work. <S> The no ground with the testers is more common on 2 wire upgrades that are protected by a gfci outlet in older homes to allow 3 wire outlets. <S> In 78 there should be 3 wire outlets in most of the US. <S> If you still have 2 wire electrical with no ground the tester won't work but the test button on the gfci will work. <A> Those 3-lamp "magic 8-ball <S> " testers are pretty lame, but in two ways. <S> the legends, like "hot-ground reverse" or "no hot". <S> They are more useless than a magic 8-ball, because they are wildly speculating at <S> the most likely (easy) cause in the context of new construction. <S> They are wholly unprepared for the realities of maintaining old wiring, and their wrong guesses will waste hours of your time. <S> The lights themselves can be quite useful, especially if you see them in the shade so you can see if some lights are half glowing . <S> By the way, those should be neon, not LED. <S> we're seeing a new generation of those which actually have computers inside, and the computer gets between you and the lights. <S> Good chance those lights are actually LED. <S> Again, the computer is aiming to troubleshoot only the most obvious faults, particularly the ones that arise in new construction - if you have a real stumper, the computer will only mislead you. <S> Pushing the GFCI test button will cause a small (10ma) amount of leakage between hot and safety ground. <S> Any common 8ma GFCI devices upstream of this point will trip. <S> If there is no GFCI upstream, the GFCI will not trip because it doesn't exist. <S> The overcurrent protection device (the breaker) will not trip because it isn't a GFCI device and 10ma <S> is not anywhere near an overcurrent. <S> If the receptacle is not grounded, the upstream GFCI will not trip because the intended 10ma of leakage is going from hot to nowhere. <S> Since current flows in loops, it won't flow. <S> In that case, you test the upstream device using its own button and make sure this outlet loses power.
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No harm will be done testing a non-GFCI outlet using the GFCI tester, but if it does trigger an interrupter elsewhere, you'll need to locate that to reset it.
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Why are light switch designs different between Europe and the US? Every single home I've visited in the US has one of these two light switch designs: In contrast, homes in Europes usually have their light switches designed like this: Is there a practical reason for this difference? Could I use a European light switch in the US (or vice-versa)? <Q> Generally speaking no <S> *. <S> Europe and the US have different voltages (230v vs 120v). <S> This puts different requirements on the equipment, and they will be built and rated to suit these. <S> For electrical purposes, if it isn't rated nothing else matters. <S> ie. <S> a 230v circuit at 10A requires a much lower cross-sectional area of conductors but a higher insulation requirement, with the opposite being true for at 120v. <S> * <S> It is of course possible to build a switch to meet these requirements and they may well exist, but the answer to "are they interchangeable" is no. <A> Yes, because it also allows this: Note the two sockets, which we have found to be indispensable. <S> That's one standard yoke, and all junction boxes therefore are designed to accommodate that one yoke. <S> Here's what it looks like naked. <S> That, by the way, is a 20 amp variant of that same plug, note backward compatibility. <S> Many circuits are actually 20A wired (for which we use stout #12, 3.3 mm2) and either socket is permitted on them, all 15A sockets are internally built for 20A. Appliances which require 20A keying are scarce as hen's teeth, though. <S> Also, multi-“gang" boxes are built with a standard spacing. <S> Why? <S> The small square and dual ovals are traditional, and Leviton invented the big rectangle "Decora" so they could accommodate just about anything. <S> Up to about 3-gang, you can get almost any combo, but then you reach a point of diminishing returns. <S> So if your combination is too eclectic, you just switch to all-Decora type, and do this. <S> by the way, if you need to plug in a Euro appliance, <S> and it won't be spun to death by our 60Hz power <S> , we have ways to do that in our plug/socket regimes, using NEMA 6, the 240V versions of the above sockets, good for up to 4800 watts. <S> Surely you don't think we'd allow a ”power gap”? <S> Anyway, you want to plug in a Euro style switch. <S> There's one gotcha. <S> 110.2 Approval . <S> The conductors and equipment required or permitted by this Code shall be acceptable only if approved. <S> "Approved" means by your local permit/inspection office. <S> They do not run a competent testing lab, so they delegate to agencies like Underwriter's Laboratories (UL). <S> These marks used to be very nationally provincial. <S> But thanks to trade deals like NAFTA, GATT, G7 and all that jazz, <S> countries whose standards are comparable recognize each others' approvals. <S> So you would need to bring over approved (surely anything sold at Wickes would be approved) junction boxes and switches from Europe. <S> Most likely our Romex cable would be a viable substitute for twin-and-earth, though our fat wires might have a problem fitting your terminals, especially our gratuitous use of #12 on what would be a 13A circuit in the UK. <A> You COULD use an EU designed switch here, functionally they are identical. <S> But practically it's not going to work because you would also have to import the boxes to mount them in, their switches will not have the right holes / sizes <S> / fill limits as what we use here.
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Because cover plates are generic and interchangeable: there are a limited number of opening shapes, and you've just seen them all.
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Will three pairs of 12' 2x4 lumber provide a safe work platform for one person? I need to build a temp. floor over my basement steps which is a 9' opening, so I can do ceiling repairs where an old chimney pipe was pulled long ago. If I fasten 6- 2x4x12 together in pairs and place them on the side with plywood on top, how much weight can it support? Would a 200 lb man be safe to work on that structure No I am asking if 6- 12ft two by fours fastened in pairs sitting on their sides for more strength, not laying flat or stacked, under a piece of 8' long by 3'wide plywood spanning over top of a 9 foot open stairwell held at each end by over lapping the existing upper floor, would it be strong enough to hold the person without breaking and dropping them 15 extra foot down the basement steps which would then be under the newly built temp floor area. The person will be trying to reach the ceiling on the upper 2nd floor for repairs. That 2nd floor ceiling is over the top of the basement stairwell opening. I don't believe ladders coming up out of the basement on steps would be any safer then building a temp floor piece over top of the stair opening on the 2nd floor. The question was would double 2x4's hold the weight of a man reaching up over his head toward the 2nd floor ceiling to work and not drop him down two stories? How much load could be safely held up by 6 pieces of wood/plywood? I am simply building a removable floor section. Can you picture a floor laying on top of an existing floor at each end while there is a 9 ft long opening under this 12ft floor piece? <Q> Long story short <S> : don't do it. <S> Some of the most dangerous words you'll ever hear: "Aww, that ain't going nowhere." <S> Over the years I have seen a lot of mishaps with homebuilt contraptions. <S> I am still not super clear <S> even after you added to your description, I get the gist but the details are very important and you're way short on details for my taste. <S> It sounds like you're building a scaffold or temporary floor over your basement opening to work on the ceiling above. <S> You're going to build it with doubled 2x4 joists spanning 9'. <S> Assuming the width of the stairwell is about 3' they'll be about 18" apart. <S> You can do engineering calculations but that's a lot more work, and error prone. <S> Your scaffold / temporary floor won't be constructed like a real permanent floor so they don't really apply, but they still shed some light. <S> Here's a link to some span tables, they are not hard to find online: <S> https://up.codes/s/allowable-ceiling-joist-spans <S> Now 2x4's are never used as floor joists any more, so the span tables for floor joists don't help, they start at 2x6's. <S> However 2x4's are still used for ceiling joists, and ceiling joists support attic floors. <S> So with doubled 2x4's, I really don't think a 200 pound man on a ladder is going to snap them. <S> However I still think it's a bad idea because I don't think snapping the lumber is the main danger here. <S> You haven't discussed this at all. <S> If you google "stairway ladder" and "stairway scaffold" you'll see that there are lots of options available to do this kind of work without trying to build something yourself. <A> My back porch roof is 10' long and framed with 2*4s on 16" centers, I had to do a bunch of work up there when I first bought the place because a tree fell on it. <S> I weigh about 225lb, didn't have any problems besides not really wanting to be up there. <S> Just make sure the framing is sound, and add supports perpendicular to the 2 <S> *4s <S> so they won't want to roll. <S> Probably best to anchor it to something that won't move, either. <A> Are you asking if a 9' sheet of plywood can span 7'6" if supported by 9" of built-up 2x4s on both sides? <S> No that is not safe. <S> You need to put floor joists under the plywood, probably something like 1-2x4 at 12" on center spacing.
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I think the most likely trouble is fastening this temporary floor / scaffold to the permanent structure securely and safely. In construction you usually use span tables to determine the distance you can span with lumber. The span tables for an attic with limited storage allow right around 9' of span for 2x4's spaced 16" on center, depending on the grade of wood. With the heights involved just about any accident that happens will be a serious accident, so I would not attempt this.
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Any idea what these cables are for? We moved into a new house and I see these cables in our garage. They come from the ceiling and are right near our water heater and breaker panel. There are 2 cables. One cable is labeled “System to House” and the other is labeled “Back to Main”. One of the cable jackets says that it’s CAT-5e cable, but this doesn’t look like any Ethernet cable that I’ve ever seen, especially with those weird things on the end (LEDs, sensors?) Any idea what these are? <Q> I can't quite be sure from the picture, but the red things are each joined to a wire from one of the two cables, right? <S> If so, they're just splices, like wire nuts <S> but for this kind of wiring. <S> So, this part doesn't tell us much about the purpose of the wiring. <S> It could be any kind of signaling cable, though having the wires untwisted like that (and having only two connected, even) would not work for high-speed Ethernet. <S> It could be a telephone line (likely, except the labels seem a bit odd for that), part of a security system, or some kind of home automation. <S> You will need to find the other ends of the cables to learn what they're used for. <S> If there are cables elsewhere that might be these <S> but you aren't sure <S> , you can get a "tone and probe" kit to send a signal on one of the unused wire pairs of one of the cables and wave the probe around other ends (or even through a wall) to detect where it runs. <A> Very common in the telecoms industry, though they don't work particularly well at high frequencies. <S> Especially as only one pair (two wires) is joined, this is almost certainly a joint in your telephone line. <S> Cat5e and similar is often used for telephone line - it is almost the same price as older Cat3 cable, can easily be converted to Ethernet usage in future, and can provide better performance when used for things like VDSL. <A> As other answers have pointed out the things on the end are "jelly crimps" typically used to join phone wiring. <S> The fact that exactly one pair is connected also suggests this is phone related, <S> network or alarm systems will usually have more than two wires in use. <S> * Maybe a filter for a DSL modem, maybe a fax machine, maybe a VOIP gateway, maybe a full-on PBX. <A> I installed a cat5e net for a client once only to have another contractor use it for his HVAC cabling. <S> Populated my punch downs and everything. <S> We were all furious but we learned that twisted-pair telephone wire is used in a lot of applications we don’t realize. <A> Those red things are simply splices. <S> If you look they are connecting or "splicing" the two wires there. <S> Now what do those wires do? <S> Probably a phone line. <S> Do you have wired phone jacks in your house? <S> If you do, then I'd be 90% sure that is a phone line.
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My guess would be that the previous owner had some kind of telephone related equipment* installed at that location between the incoming line from the telco ("back to main") and the wiring to the phones in the house ("system to house") and that when he removed his equipment he spliced the wires together so the phones would work. These could also be for HVAC. Those red things are a 3M Skotchlok or equivalent, which is a water-resistant (gel filled) way of joining small wires.
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Should I solder stranded wires when connecting them to a plug? I'm about to perform a few electrical changes in my house in order to be able to control lighting fixtures (230V, 30 to 200 mA) from a PC. I have some doubts about the way stranded wires should be connected to the plugs. For instance, I suppose the way of connecting the wires shown on the next photo is dangerous, because the connection can easily become loose, is it? It seems that pulling the plug a few times by the wire instead of the plug itself would have disastrous effects on the connection. If yes, should I solder stranded wire to make it solid? If so, what should I take care of, aside using a rosin-core solder? Once I solder it, how am I supposed to connect it to the metallic parts of the plug? <Q> One should never apply lead alloy solder to stranded wires (often called "tinning") that are to be tightened under a screw. <S> Eventually, the solder will cold-flow under the pressure and the screw connection will become loose . <S> This doesn't happen overnight; it can take months or years. <S> I have personally seen this happen on several occasions. <S> It can be okay to just tin the very tip, to help keep the twisted wire strands together while tightening the screw. <S> However, it is preferable just to leave some extra wire sticking out, and cut that off flush after tightening the screw. <A> With that style of terminal tinning the wires with solder is going to cause more problems than it solves. <S> However the plug in the picture does not look correctly wired to me. <S> Firstly the wires should wrap around the screws, not merely run down one side of them. <S> They should be wrapped such that turning the screw will tighten the wire around the screw. <S> Secondly the cord grip does not seem to be correctly installed. <S> It should clamp on the sheath not the individual conductors and it may need inverting to give a good grip on a thin cable or it may not be suitable for thin cables at all. <S> If pulling the cord out puts stress on the electrical terminations the cord grip is not doing it's job properly. <A> It's a given that any wires in cordage will be stranded. <S> Being designed for a different kind of service is what makes cordage different from in-wall wiring, and why you should not use one for the other. <S> So it's a given that any plug whose primary use is cordage is designed to work with stranded wire . <S> Here, you should follow the instructions and labeling on the plugs, because following those instructions are the basis for the testing and certification which the plug received from your NRTL. <S> (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory) such as UL, CSA, TUV etc. <S> Not following the instructions is an "off-label use" (to put it kindly) and can result in an illegal install and non-payout of fire insurance. <S> Speaking of non-payout, you need to be careful what you are sticking on mains power, and in particular, built into walls. <S> Random electronic components out of the Digi-Key catalog are unfit for use in mains power. <S> Equipment made for use in mains wiring can get its cert/listing faster <S> if it is built with listed components, that is all a component listing means, it does not mean you can use components directly. <S> So for instance "random relay" is not listed for use in mains, but an "RIB" unit containing that same relay can be used. <S> (RIB ~= Relay In Box). <S> If your aim is smart appliance control, you may be better off using existing, listed/certified smart devices (i.e. Not Sonoff), and having your electronics communicate with them. <S> Generally, the rules are greatly relaxed for homebrew equipment when it is entirely low voltage and fed by a listed/certified wall wart. <A> I would not use solder - <S> it won't help the grip much (arguably, stranded wire may actually grip the screw better as it deforms) and while it is probably not a bad conductor, it won't beat copper. <S> What is important is to wind the wire around the screws in the correct direction. <S> To quote Harper from another answer (and I have seen him mention this quite a few times): <S> Hook the wire clockwise around the screw, so <S> tightening the screw makes it wrap more. <A> The flat headed screw is designed to hold stranded wire in place. <S> As other answers said, using solder will prevent the screw head getting a good grip on all the strands of wire and eventually it will work loose. <S> The mistake you made was to strip too much insulation from the wires and then try to make the joint stronger by wrapping the wire round the end of the pins after it went under the screw heads. <S> The correct way is to strip only enough insulation to make a loop around the screw, a bit LESS than one complete turn (about 3/4 of a turn is fine) <S> so the wire doesn't overlap itself under the screw head. <S> Wrap the wire round the screw in the direction so that tightening the screw pulls the wire tighter under the screw head rather than pushing it away. <A> For the particular connection in the OP image, I would suggest using ring terminals on the wire, as they are intended to be screwed down: <A> Generally speaking, no. <S> The screws are designed to hold the wires in place. <S> If you don't feel the plug screws are sufficient, buy a newer one. <S> They all use screws to connect, however. <A> Use Electric wire ferrules : " <S> An electric wire ferrule (sometimes end terminal) is a metal tube crimped over stranded wire to secure the strands within a screw terminal ." <S> The cord grip must clamp on the sheath of the whole cord and not just individual conductors. <S> Maybe most important: <S> The earthing or grounding system is not connected! <S> Either use a third conductor for earth/ground or use a plug which by design just has two conductors, if that is even permissible for the applied voltage and current.
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The wires in your picture are coming towards the screw from the correct side, but they don't wrap far enough around the screw, because you thought you should wrap the end around the connector pins instead. You should not use solder.
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Can nonworking half of light set be removed? I have a set of regular Christmas lights, and one half of the set doesn't work. Can the half that doesn't work be removed and somehow join or solder the two remaining wire ends? The last working lightbulb has two wires going in, and only one wire going out. There's a third wire, but it goes past the lightbulb. <Q> In a way, this is kind of like asking, "Doctor, I got a sliver in my finger, what do I do" to which he replies, "get into the office immediately, we need to amputate at the shoulder or higher" <S> I'm just kidding :) <S> But YES, you can, however, you really should skip the operation. <S> Pulling the sliver or repairing the fault is more economical, but time consuming. <S> Light sets are so inexpensive today its often worth it to buy a new set. <S> I tend to keep a few laying around that I can use for spare bulbs. <S> Many bulbs nowadays can blow and still allow the set to work, but this isn't entirely perfect. <S> You can bulb swap unknown bulbs 1 at a time with a single socket <S> you know is working. <S> While you can rewire a set, you'd now have to tape it, and also ensure you arent increasing the voltage so much that you overpower the remaining bulbs and blow them too. <S> 100 light sets are usually using bulbs for 100 light sets. <S> Turn that into a 50 or 25, and the voltage goes up. <S> Not worth messing with,and if it is, its more useful to keep the set intact. <S> The 3 wire part is leading the hot and neutral to another section of the lights, so if it is a 100 set, it is already 50 and 50 :) <S> Decide <S> if you want the outlet, measure it from end to end with an ohmmeter, and cut and repair the last socket with the outlet if being used, re measure everything before plugging it in, and be sure to keep hot hot, and neutral neutral. <S> Dont both attempting it if you arent able to do this. <A> Most lights are actually low voltage and that's why when 1 goes out a whole section of lights go out. <S> I would caution againts changing the number of lights. <S> My wife purchased a short string to put all my hallmark moving ornaments on, not realizing these lights were like 15v as the standard ones were 3v - fried every one of them collected over 20+ years. <S> If the voltage is wrong they will flash and be done. <A> Yes - most Christmas lights are actually multiple sets wired in parallel. <S> That third wire you mentioned likely starts at the first bulb, then goes right the way down the string without touching anything until it gets to the first bulb of the second series. <S> They say a picture speaks a thousand words: <S> If it's the half nearest the plug that still works, cut the purple wire at the very first bulb (nearest to the plug). <S> Unwind it, leaving one wire (black in the picture) connecting the two halves of the set. <S> Cut the black wire where it comes out of the last (working) bulb, making sure to seal any exposed wires with electrical tape.
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A bad bulb, or a poorly seated bulb, or a broken bulb lead, or a lead not centered well, or a wire pulled out of the socket is usually the culprit.
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How to open holes in plastic electrical junction box How am I supposed to open the holes for the cables in a junction box like the one shown in the picture below? <Q> I would use a sharp knife, a so called utility knife, if I had one handy, but would try my moderately well sharpened pocket knife if that was all I had. <S> EDIT <S> It may be that all one has to do <S> is to pierce a "ring" with a knife or even a flat blade screwdriver and then pulling propagates the tear as the inside is pulled out. <S> EDIT2 <S> The fact that the ring feature is convex suggests that the designers envisioned the removal could be with a slicing action with a blade parallel to the plane of the rings. <S> For a right handed person I could imagine holding the box with the left hand with the inside of the left forearm braced against the chest. <S> The knife would be held in the right hand (cutting edge toward the thumb) with the right elbow braced against the person's ribs. <S> The cut would be made by pulling the knife so that in the event of a slip the right forearm would contact the chest and stop the movement of the knife. <S> After slicing 90 deg the box would be rotated 90 deg to continue the cut . <S> . . <A> I would use a step drill bit similar to this one. <S> It will allow you to drill whatever size hole you need for the appropriate size connector. <S> Cheap Harbor Freight Bit <A> First, you make sure this thing is actually certified for use in mains wiring. <S> If it came from ebay, amazon or alibaba/aliexpress, it's not. <S> Then, you obey the labeling and instructions that come with it. <S> If you improvise, that will get you written up by an inspector <S> and you'll have to redo the work. <S> Regardless, any wire entry into a box requires a strain relief clamp, mainly to protect the wire from damage from the box edge, unless the labeling and instructions tell you otherwise. <S> Which they would do, if the box had been designed, tested and certified to work that way.
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Alternatively , the box could be held down on a flat surface and the knife held with the cutting edge away from the thumb. The removal would be with a slicing action from above then the box flipped over for slicing the remainder. It can't pass certification without instructions, because certification isn't for all uses, only for the methods of use described in the instructions.
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T&P valve is really tight, not able to remove it I have the below T&P valve, I'm not able to remove it to replace a new one.I saw there has some declaration above the valve which said it's the combination of the water heater, does this mean I can't remove it? If no, how to remove a very tight valve. Thanks a lot. <Q> OK, that warning label is telling you that the valve is protecting the appliance from both over-heating and over-pressure (combination). <S> The part about removal from point of installation is a warning that relocating it to another part of the system will not provide adequate protection (back in the day they sometimes located a pressure-relief valve on a pipe outside the home). <S> You can remove and replace it. <S> Pull off that plastic cover so you can see the threaded part. <S> Get a bigger wrench, at the factory they use a pipe compound that sets hard. <S> Your tank is iron and unlikely to be damaged <A> First, try to tighten the relief valve to break the hold of the dope and threads. <S> It should be easier to tighten than to remove. <S> You only have to move it a little to break the thread hold . <S> Then remove the safety valve with a bigger wrench, say an 18" or 24" crescent wrench. <S> The tightening is easier since the strain on the threads is in the direction of tightening. <A> I had the same problem and borrowed a long pipe wrench to get it off. <S> You can try to break it free a few ways: Use a longer wrench or put a pipe over the handle to make your lever longer Rock <S> it tighter and looser to get the threads moving While the tank is hot <S> , drain below the valve and apply ice water or dusting spray to the valve to try to change the size to loosen Use a penetrating oil or something like CLR (you should be able to pull back the plastic cover to get to the threads) <S> Try to use even force to try to keep from tearing the threads. <S> If it does tear out the threads you may need to clean them out or even repair the threads with a tap.
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If the TP valve is bad, you have to replace it, even if it's risks damage to the threads.
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How do I tell difference between doorbell transformer and furnace transformer? I’ve been searching for way too long for the doorbell transformer in our house (I suspect it’s not putting quite enough juice for a Nest Hello doorbell setup as the Nest Hello works but the chime doesn’t sound because the solenoid moves but not as much as it needs to). Anyway, I’ve been looking for this doorbell transformer in all the typical places, such as behind the chime or the button, in the circuit breaker panels, garage, closets, attic, crawl space, etc. and not finding it. The one thing I found that looks like a transformer is on top of a galvanized metal switch in the closet with the furnace (Trane XL-80 gas furnace). I was guessing that it was a furnace transformer, but is it possible that this is the doorbell transformer?! Update: What is this? <Q> Your pic is a furnace transformer. <S> Doorbell transformers are a different story. <S> I've found them in walls, behind the chime. <S> I've also found them in the attic as well as the basement or crawlspace. <A> It is the furnace transformer. <S> Don’t mess with it. <S> I just went through the same thing. <S> I actually made the same exact post like a month ago for ring doorbell. <A> Look in the attic for the doorbell transformer, this is the most common place I have found them from early 1900 era homes and up to the 80's , close to the furnace is usually the furnace. <S> Many times the location of the transformer is above the chime or a few feet from that in the attic. <S> This is where I find them for the most part but seeing your furnace switch and transformer <S> I would bet it is someplace close above the chime and may now be covered by insulation.
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A furnace transformer will be located close to the furnace and in most cases is mounted to the furnace itself.
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Is it a bad idea to drill a hole through this door frame to pass wires? I want to pass my ethernet, speaker and sub wires into my newly built media/bar cabinet, but I hate having to pass them under the door, so I'd like to drill a hole as shown by the green circle in the image. Bad idea? <Q> Not a bad idea what so ever. <S> However, let me clarify on the posted answer... <S> A hole saw can be used to cut clean perfect holes, but are limited in cut depth. <S> You'll most likely need to use the hole saw on both sides of the jamb. <S> A hole hog, as another commenter mentioned, is also known as an auger bit. <S> It has a pointed threaded tip that will pull the bit thru whatever material you're trying to drill thru until the tip can't pull anymore. <S> From there you'll need a little extra force to get the bit to finish it's cut. <S> Both are feasible tools for what you're looking to do. <A> <A> Probably too late <S> but I would actually go through the wall between the molding and the corner. <S> Measure things on the side from the picture, transpose the hole location into the other room and drill from the other room. <S> 3/4" auger or installer bit should fit fine. <S> That's just me. <S> Drilling the frame will end up being like 5" of solid wood counting the doubled stud and the molding, drilling into that space will be just wall material/hollow cavity/wall material. <S> It will also be less likely to cause issues in the future. <S> Need larger hole? <S> Elongate with a jab saw, and use those plastic cable hiders to cover the hole.
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I would suggest getting a hole cutter instead of drilling a hole so the hole can be future proofed if you want to pass more wires someday.
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Kitchen lit with exclusively PAR20 spot lights, how can I reduce shadows? At some point somebody installed 6 can lights that accept PAR20 bulbs in my kitchen. It appears that PAR20 bulbs are for spot lighting, which means focused lighting, which means shadows everywhere. Shadows are not what you want when you're chopping up food, it's really hard to see in there. The widest beam angle I can find on these bulbs is 50 degrees. I don't know if I can even go wider because of the housings. I tried to fit a PAR30 bulb in there but it wouldn't fit. I could get it to fit if I removed the trim, but then it was impossible to re-attach the trim. What are my options? <Q> When searching for "bulbs with housing attached", I found that this actually exists! <S> For a PAR20 bulb, the housing is a 4" housing. <S> They sell a product called "LED Recessed Retrofit Downlight. <S> " You would remove the trim that's already installed, plug in a pigtail then shove the new housing retainers either through the gap between the drywall and the existing housing, or directly into the existing housing if there's enough spring tension. <S> Hopefully it lands flat? <S> I also started looking into adapters so I could put other format bulbs in. <S> It seems like the name of the thread on the PAR20 bulb is called E26. <S> There are adapters that will go from E26 to GU10, which is the plug with the 2 little prongs. <S> The bulbs that would fit that would be called MR16. <S> The adapter ends up pushing down the bulb by about 1", and the beam on MR16's go as wide as 60 degrees. <S> I think this would be the cheaper option, but slightly less effective in reducing shadows. <A> What are my options? <S> More light sources illuminating the work surfaces from a much greater variety of angles. <S> In the pre-LED era, a good way of illuminating a room like a kitchen was to have a 6 foot / 2 meter long fluorescent tube on the ceiling parallel to the main worksurfaces and a series of linked fluorescent tubes underneath every wall-cabinet. <S> This arrangement ensures that light reaches the work-surfaces from both front and back and from a wide variety of angles. <S> You can buy LED strip-lights that duplicate this sensible arrangement. <S> I think it will be very hard to create something as effective over a large area if you are using only six typical PAR20 or MR16 bulbs. <S> Footnotes: <S> E26 is 26 mm diameter Edison Screw (ES). <A> PAR "20" is the diameter of the bulb. <S> The unit is eights of an inch, so 20/8= 2.5". <S> Focal spread of a bulb is a parameter of the bulb. <S> They vary from 8 degrees (spotlights) to 120 <S> +. <S> Naked bulbs are a 360 degree sphere in all cases except LED, those are a 160 degree cone. <S> It only takes a little lensing to make LEDs kick any angle you want. <S> Whereas with halogens, they require a reflector to focus. <S> You get two lights, the unfocused direct light from the filament, and the focused light bouncing off the reflector. <S> You shouldn't have any trouble getting LED PAR20s of an angle of your choice. <S> It can't spread any wider than the enclosure allows, that is to say, blasting light on the inner ring of the enclosure is not useful. <S> If your base is E26 (26mm diameter), that is the classic Edison base that is universal in North America. <S> That, or E10 candelabra, are the only two bases I would consider using. <S> Any other base, the lamps will be expensive and of limited selection. <S> They make E26 to E26 adapters, they typically have pull switches on them.
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However, that said, going with another base will allow you to use an adapter which will take space, allowing the bulb to hang lower, clear the enclosure and let you use a wider arc.
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GFI kitchen receptacle blew up I was running my vacuum cleaner and suddenly the kitchen GFI receptacle it was plugged into popped with some black smoke, a burning electrical smell and blackened the receptacle itself. Did my vacuum cleaner die? Is it safe to try a different receptacle? Should I call the electrician who installed this receptacle in the spring? <Q> The load of a vacuum combined with the refrigerator was probably more than the wiring could handle. <S> I state this because most vacuums are at the max of 15 amp circuits and now the refer kicks in another motor load with high in rush current. <S> Depending on the wiring method it could be just loose connections that sparked but the gfci could in fact let the magic smoke out and this is an easy fix, turn the breaker off, buy a new gfci outlet, pull old outlet and install new oulet making sure to have the wires for line and load in the correct positions. <S> Turn the breaker back on. <S> Make sure the fridge is working , and use another outlet in the future. <A> GFCI outlets aren't designed to last forever. <S> One thing I would make sure of is that when the GFCI is replaced that it is NOT put in-line with the circuit (i.e. make a pigtail in the box and have the GFCI not use the LOAD side connections). <S> There's generally no reason why a refrigerator should be protected by a GFCI <S> There's no requirement to GFCI protect receptacles that serve a refrigerator. <S> My bet is that it was placed in-line by a sloppy contractor or a prior homeowner who didn't know what they were doing. <S> In either case, putting the GFCI outside the circuit should ensure it is never overloaded again. <A> Probably a bad GFCI. <S> Try the vacuum with a different outlet. <S> Maybe one without a GFCI <S> just Incase something really wired if going on. <S> It won't damage anything.
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It should just trip if something is wrong with the vacuum, not smoke and blow up. Worst that happens is you see a few sparks and the breaker trips. Unless the fridge is plugged into a countertop receptacle. It could be that the GFCI simply died when under load.
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How to seal joints in ductwork when tape is not an option The duct-work in the basement for my forced air heating system has been modified at various points over its long history and as a result had quite a few leaks when I moved in recently. I used foil tape to fix most of them, but I'm having trouble with the biggest leak: The red arrow is the main branch from the furnace, showing the direction of airflow. Blue shows the branch leading to the register. This register is the second one on this branch, and the most "direct" (the other leads through a section of smaller duct-work). The register is located directly above the floor joists shown. Green shows where the leak is -- the duct (blue) butts against this joist, and where it meets the main branch (red) there is a gap about 1/4" (0.5 cm) wide, for the width of the duct. Between the joist (green) and the main branch (red) there is just enough space to get my fingers. This is the space that needs to be filled or sealed to stop the leak. Since I have failed to get tape in to seal this joint, how else can I seal it? I'm thinking of getting a piece of foam insulation or perhaps tube wrap to shove in the gap, but would this be wise? Some additional details: Moving the main branch to get better access is probably more trouble than it's worth. Location is an unfinished basement. The space is already warm enough given the small size and the fact that the furnace and lots of duct work is radiating enough heat to keep it warm. <Q> I've used duct sealer in the past to seal up my attic air handler, it applies like a paste and dries hard. <S> You can try that, but you options of globbing it on may be limited. <S> Is this duct in a basement or crawlspace? <S> The handler and ducts in my unfinished basement leak a bit, <S> but I don't bother sealing them up as it helps keep the temp in the basement that much more liveable. <A> A 1/4 " gap is way to wide to fix with even metal tape. <S> I would cut a hole large enough in the side of the trunk line <S> so I could add a piece of sheet metal on the inside held in with some Silicone and a couple of screws. <S> Then patch the access hole. <S> I have had to do similar where folks have shut to many registers off and the main trunk split due to the large area and increased pressure. <A> A good duct-sealer with fibers can be applied thickly with an old paintbrush. <S> It also strengthens tape that covers gaps. <S> If needed, a metal patch can be screwed on from the outside, then duct-sealed. <S> Give it 6 hours to dry before pressurizing the ductwork.
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If you want you can add duct-seal to the back of the patch, but the thick product forms a membrane on top of almost anything.
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How long will metal pipe last in earth and concrete I'm building a fort for my kids out of wood, 8 foot by 8 foot and trying to work out how to make it last. I can't get treated wood, and apparently untreated wood rots within a year of ground contact even if painted. Can I make a base out of 3 inch pipe, with 2 foot legs concreted into the ground and then build my fort on it? Perhaps have the base raised a couple of inches off ground? How long could I expect it to last. I don't want to (can't afford to) build a proper foundation, just concrete in the legs so it's solid. We get a LOT of rain here, like a monsoon season and cyclone prone, so I need it solid as it will be 15 foot tall on an 8 foot square base. Although in the event of a cyclone I'd probably unbolt it from the base and lay it down. <Q> You could build big concrete posts, maybe 12" in diameter, up about 12" above ground level, and use metal post bases to keep the wood off the concrete. <S> In the comments you mention you're in the mid Pacific. <S> Without pressure treated available, keep in mind that some species are far more rot resistant than others. <S> The people selling lumber may be able to help suggest what will work best. <S> Farmers usually know, too. <S> Some of the most rot resistant woods are tropicals that would be very expensive exotics where I am, but they may be affordable where you are. <S> Sometimes small utility poles are at a decent price, they are treated for direct embedment in post holes. <S> Setting a pole is doable with nothing more than a shovel if you can hand dig the necessary depth. <A> The 3" pipe in concrete will last for generations in contact with the ground or in poured concrete. <S> Remember this, your kids will tire of the fort in a couple years <S> so I would not make it too permanent. <S> We all want to build something for our kids to have fun with, but as they grow up their likes and abilities change. <S> (think computers and the opposite sex). <S> Both my son and I have been where you are at. <S> my 2 cents. <A> I heard of a guy "frying" wood in wax, and I plan to try it someday. <S> Paraffin wax is cheap, too. <S> I plan to sand the posts smooth, treat with preservative as suggested, and then hoist the post over a pot of hot wax. <S> The water should leave the wood when hotter than 212 F/100 C, and then the wax should soak in as it cools. <S> It sounds like a lot of work to me, but I like that sort of thing, and it really ought to last longer than I'd ever need. <A> You could use cheap cinder blocks or bricks as a quick & easy foundation, similar to a backyard shed, to keep your wood off of the ground. <S> This could vary of course depending on stuff like the water table level, soil conditions... <S> but in general you would just dig out holes, being only 8’x8’ <S> the four corners is all you’d need, drop some leveling stone in, and then place your cinder blocks and get them level. <S> Backfill with more stone, or quickcrete, and do your best to get good compaction. <A> You could try burning the part that goes below ground. <S> There is evidence to support scorched wood being able to resist rot.
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Be sure to treat the end grain and base of the post with the best preservative you have available, and it ought to hold up pretty well.
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Can I replace a microwave with a range hood exhaust vent without doing carpentry? My fairly small kitchen has a standard (30") four-burner slide-in gas range, and above it a microwave with a built-in vent. All over 10 years old. The vent exhausts to the exterior via a duct that goes up into the cabinet above the microwave. I've read that, as vents, microwaves ovens are pretty good ovens. Consumer Reports indicates that some are less mediocre than others. Their latest rating is not very up to date. If I pull out the microwave, will a pure vent drop into the space left behind, or am I likely to be looking at carpentry? <Q> Having recently done the exact same thing you are mentioning, here are my tips and observations. <S> For reference, this was the range hood I bought . <S> This wasn't an issue for me since the microwave was astandard size for most range hoods. <S> The only "carpentry" work I had to do was creating/adjusting the venthole in the bottom of the cabinet. <S> The new range hood should comewith a nice template to show you were the vent cutout needs to be. <S> You may get lucky with being able to use the existing hole <S> but I wasnot this lucky. <S> This was the ONLY cutting that I had to do. <S> The new range hood was super easy to install under the cabinet (4screws!) <S> with the included brackets. <S> The exception to this is thatyou <S> may need to buy the cable that plugs into the outlet and directlywire it to the hood. <S> You may have an unsightly backsplash area from where the microwavewas previously installed. <S> I didn't have any paint behind themicrowave <S> so there was a bare patch that I had to repaint. <S> I also hadto fill a couple holes in the wall that were used to secure themicrowave. <S> You may need to get different ducting if the new range hood doesn'tinclude the appropriate adapter/connection for your existing duct. <S> Hope that helps! <A> You should be able to find a hood/vent that will fit horizontally correctly - 30" is a standard width so plenty of hoods are designed to match. <S> However, you will have a problem vertically because most are much shorter than your microwave oven. <S> That gives you two options: BOTTOM Build a cabinet down from the existing cabinet and mount a new hood so that the bottom of it matches the existing bottom of the microwave/other cabinets. <S> I do <S> NOT recommend doing this: You will have trouble matching the other cabinets (color/style) and you won't gain any workspace over the stove. <S> TOP Install a new hood/fan so that the top of it matches the top of the microwave. <S> This is by far the easier solution. <S> No carpentry work needed, and you will also gain some vertical workspace - handy when working with big pots. <S> The only real work is that you will very likely find that the backsplash tile does not go all the way up behind the microwave, so you may need to add some more tiles. <S> If you can find an exact - or very, very close - match, great. <S> If not, I would go with something complementary but different enough that it doesn't look like an "almost but not really good enough" match. <S> Either way, you will need to deal with the electrical and the ductwork. <S> Electrical should be easy. <S> It looks like the microwave plugs into a receptacle in the upper cabinet. <S> If so, you may need to add a plug to the hood (some come set up for direct wire into a junction box), but that is easy to do. <S> The ductwork may have a different location, so you may need to get an adapter of some sort and/or cut a bigger hole in the base of the upper cabinet. <S> I recommend picking a hood or two online and downloading the installation manuals to check those details before buying one. <S> As far as a hood, besides the aesthetics (white vs. stainless steel, style, etc.), you should definitely look at the speed (usually CFM) vs. sound (decibels or sones). <S> Many are adjustable speed so you can run loud & fast when you really need it <S> but quieter when you just need basic ventilation. <A> We did this. <S> Biggest problem was removing the microwave because we trim at the bottom of our cabinets which made the opening smaller. <S> We also had partially cut tiles below the microwave. <S> We added in a border tile then tiled up the rest of the way with the same tile <S> and you cant really tell that row is shorter.
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Make sure to buy a range hood that is the same width as yourmicrowave.
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Understanding my main box for Knob and Tube wiring I'm trying to map all my circuits and prepare for replacing my knob and tube wiring. I have three boxes and when testing voltage I notice my central white wire isn't hot. I expect this to be the ground, but it has associated circuits that have no load. Is this box a two phase with red and black and the white is connected to ground? My only confusion comes when I measure that every other fuse not have load. What fuses connect to the red wire? Everything on the left? <Q> Wow, nice fuse panel. <S> It's well preserved and probably still fully effective. <S> You can only hope the modern panel you replace it with holds up so well! <S> Keep in mind that voltage is only meaningful between two things. <S> Sometimes when referring to voltage to ground / earth, we'll just assume that's the other thing. <S> So if we say "the red wire is at 120V," or "the black wire is at 120V," we really mean there's 120V between those wires and ground. <S> (There are ungrounded systems where there is voltage present between parts of the system, but no voltage to any of the conductors and ground, but those are seen in big industrial systems, not your home.) <S> I suspect you're testing with a non-contact voltage tester. <S> Remember that these testers generally measure voltage to ground. <S> In the US, most single family homes are supplied by a Edison three wire service. <S> The lines originate at the end of the winding, the neutral, which is grounded, originates at the middle. <S> There's 240V from line to line, and 120V from either line to neutral. <S> So with a non-contact voltage detector, you'll only detect voltage on line1 and line2, not on the neutral; <S> it's grounded. <S> But if you put one lead of a voltage meter on white, and the other on red or black, you'd read 120V. <A> I would like to take the time and thank you for a magnificent display of workmanship on the installation of this panel. <S> I checked you bio and <S> if you are truly a fan of history, then you might try to preserve it or at least document and photo this system as a part of our living history, once you replace it. <S> In answer to your questions:The white wire is the return, neutral or identified conductor and it does have current (flow) but not voltage (electrical pressure). <S> Somewhere it is grounded or should be. <S> Don't let the way the neutral is tied to the bus confuse you. <S> You would need to take apart the panel to see how it is connected. <S> Also your panel is two phase, those would be the conductors on either side of the neutral. <S> I don't understand by what you mean by: "load" on ever other breaker. <S> This is a true Fuse Panel with Edison based fuses <S> not breakers in a Circuit Breaker Panel. <S> I'm kind of a stickler on proper nomenclature. <S> Thanks again and Happy New Year. <A> You may recall hearing that "current travels in loops". <S> That is true. <S> Electrons that come into your home, into the circuit, must go back out again. <S> It's like your water pipes. <S> The supply pipes are under pressure, yes. <S> Where does your water go after you use it? <S> Down the drain. <S> Where does that go, "away?" <S> Are the sewer pipes under pressure? <S> If you stuck a pressure gauge on a sewer pipe, would you get any reading? <S> No. <S> And yet, they flow just as much water as your supply pipe: they are a circuit . <S> Likewise with the neutral wire. <S> You measure zero voltage pressure. <S> That tells you nothing about flow. <S> Neutral is the normal return path for electricity. <S> It flows exactly as much current as the hots. <S> Exactly. <S> That is how GFCI works, it compares the hot current to the neutral current and looks for "exactly". <S> Unlike water, electricity is pressurized all the way through, it's more akin to a hydraulic circuit (which also has near zero pressure on its return line). <S> So if you interrupted neutral, full voltage pressure would back up behind the break. <S> This is why we insulate neutral wires. <A> There is one little piece of information that everyone seems to have missed. <S> This fuse box is indeed supplied by a 1 phase 3 wire service and the circuits on the left side are supplied by the red hot wire whereas the ones on the right are supplied by the black wire however, this box supports a total of 8 circuits (4 on the left and 4 on the right) since each circuit has both a fused hot and neutral. <S> Therefore each circuit has two fuses. <S> Fusing both the neutral and hot (phase) of a circuit was very common in the early 20th century however, by the end of the 1920s this practice was banned. <S> This is because a circuit would appear to be off if only the neutral fuse burnt out since the circuit will break however in this case it would be dangerous to assume the circuit is dead since the hot is still connected and the circuit is energized and waiting for a path back to a grounded conductor (i.e. the neutral wire or someone assuming the circuit <S> is dead touching the bare conductors) in order to complete the circuit. <S> In order to eliminate this dangerous situation it has been standard practice and required by code for many decades to only fuse the hot (phase) conductors. <S> That way if a fuse blows the equipment/wiring it is protecting is guaranteed <S> to not be live/energized unless it is being feed by multiple circuits and/or phases, which is a whole other issue which is dealt with using common trip breakers with multiple poles as well as multi pole switches. <S> Since your fuse box is likely close to 100 years old <S> each circuit has both a fused neutral and a fused hot wire.
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In this system, there are two lines (red and black in your fuse panel) and a neutral originating on the same transformer winding. That is why the fuse/wire in every other row of your fuse box will not register as hot if you touch it with a non contact voltage tester or measure its voltage relative to ground. Keep in mind the neutral is a grounded conductor since it is bonded to ground at the main disconnect/service switch as well as at the utility company’s transformer. Although we use it all the time, the term "hot" can be a little ambiguous. No, it goes into your sewer pipes.
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Motion sensor with bypass switch? I wish to have a motion sensor on the lights in my garage, but I also want to have an override switch that works normally, and does not require a specific pattern to toggle the override in the sensor. Is this circuit workable? / Wall switch +------0 0-----+ | |--Phase-+-----Sensor-----+-------+ | | Lights--Neutral------+--+--------------+ |--Earth------------------------------+ The lights are 4x flourescent tubes in two double fittings, but I may add more later. Or may replace with LED fittings if that helps. Essentially I'm trying to replicate the function of an Occupancy Sensor wall plate, like this: For some reason these aren't available in New Zealand. Voltage is 230 VAC at 50Hz. The main reasons for concern are that: the sensor will have live voltage on both sides even when the sensor is off. the lights will not be isolated from power simply by turning off the wall switch. Adequate labelling at the lights should cover this ("WARNING DUAL SUPPLY! Disable sensor AND check for voltage before servicing.") Related to but not a dupe of How should dual motion sensors be connected? multiple motion detectors wired together <Q> As I discuss in the answer you linked, that is fine. <S> There are some minor glitches in your drawing, but nothing worrisome. <S> Try <S> / Wall switch + <S> ------0 <S> 0 <S> -----+ <S> | |--Phase-+-----Sensor-----+-------+ <S> | Lights--Neutral--------+---------------+ <S> (ground removed for clarity, actually it's needed at all devices assuming NZ code does not delete this popular requirement). <S> And this is strictly a schematic, the wiring method must be such that currents balance in each cable or conduit. <S> A maintainer, especially one who has looked around the room and observed motion sensors, should be shutting off power at the circuit breaker. <S> I have no sympathy for someone who wants to work the circuit "hot", unless NZ Code has a variation that says I should. <S> For all the servicer knows, it's wired with a switched neutral. <A> I've done this. <S> Works great. <S> A switch and motion sensor in parallel. <S> It also works with two motion sensors. <S> Only thing is that highest takes precedence, in other words if the motion sensor turns the light on the switch is not able to turn it off. <S> I tolerate this issue. <S> Works great. <S> good luck. <A> A common component in automation is an HOA switch, which stands for "Hand - Off - Auto" switch. <S> It's wired so that in the "Hand" position it's on, <S> in the "Off" position it's off, and in the "Auto" position the controls (in this case the sensor) are determining the state. <S> They'll be made to use on industrial control panels. <S> If you search for a "SPDT center-off maintained toggle switch" you'll find switches that will work with regular switch boxes and cover plates. <S> These will provide the HOA type functionality pretty close to what's built into the occupancy sensor / switch you are looking at. <S> So you could wire the light to the common terminal constant hot to the top terminal for override-on <S> switched hot from the sensor to the bottom terminal for normal motion-on <S> That should be functional; <S> I'll have to leave it to the OP to determine whether it's code compliant in New Zealand.
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A quality, modern motion sensor with its own neutral isn't going to have a problem with its LOAD hot being externally hottified by a switch or other motion sensor. If you search for a HOA switch you'll find lots of switches that would work, but you won't find the type that you're used to seeing and using and looking at in your home.
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Scratch on wall - ceramic tile by accident I scratch ceramic tile in my bathroom while cleaning. Do you have any idea how can I remove/(paint?)/fix this? I tried a lot of home products (at start I though its just a tech pencil), but without result. Wall specification: https://www.paradyz.com/en/catalog/elia/elia-bianco-sciana-struktura-rekt Scratch: EDIT : Thanks for all the answers, I'm going to try them soon. I will let you know about the results. <Q> Try alkyd (oil-based) paint. <S> Yes, paint. <S> If the tile off white and if you have a scrap somewhere, take it to a paint store and they can sell you a match. <S> The crack will disappear or only you will know. <A> Metal marks can sometimes be removed with lacquer thinner or acetone. <S> I have had some good results on similar looking marred tile. <A> In the past I have "borrowed" some nail polish from my wife that was a similar hue. <S> I then, painted over it with a ceramic tile gloss (you can buy it at any home improvement store) and set it with a hair dryer (even better a heat gun, as stated above on low, if you have one). <S> It worked and no one knew it was there unless you knew exactly where to look. <A> Try a white wax crayon like from a kid's art kit. <S> Rub it all along the crack, rub off excess gently with a rag, then heat a bit with a blow dryer or heat gun (on low setting).
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Or a white wax putty stick; the type used for furniture scratch repair. Try a cloth dampened on a corner with the solvent.
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Room dead from light switch I live in a sun home trailer and the light really got on my nerves because when you flip the switch the light takes a minute to kick on and when it kicks on it is dim but it flips back and forth from dim to bright over and over for a while then it stays bright until you turn it off. So I decided to try and fix it myself. Nothing was wrong with the light itself, but I went into the light switch to see what's up and I thought "let me try to connect this weird copper wire (that's connected to nothing, it's just in there) to the screw holding the wire from the side of the switch". I flipped the switch on on and all I heard was a small buzzing sound, the light didn't turn on and the TV cuts off. I instantly cut the switch and disconnected the copper wire and now now nothing in my room works. No outlets or the switch works but everything else in the house works but this room. Help me out - I'm lost. I tried doing the fuse box it didn't work. <Q> I hate to put it this way, but you are in way over your skill level. <S> You connected the ground wire that to the switched hot. <S> When you turned on the switch, you shorted the circuit. <S> That should have caused a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip. <S> Based on "I tried doing the fuse box it didn't work. <S> ", you either have not found the correct fuse or breaker, or some part of the electrical wiring in the room (possibly at the switch, possibly at an outlet) burned up (literally) and broke the circuit. <S> Hopefully a fuse or breaker did trip - if not then <S> the safety of your fuses/breakers is questionable. <S> But even if you find the fuse (and replace it) or breaker (and reset it), there is definitely a possibility of damage due to arcing in any/all of the devices on that circuit (switch, receptacles, any wire junctions). <S> Now for the educational part: Most circuits have a hot wire, a neutral wire and a ground wire. <S> Normally (there are exceptions in various situations), the hot wire is black or another color besides white, gray or green; the neutral wire is white or gray; and the ground wire is green or bare copper. <S> There are a number of situations where the ground wire is not connected - particularly switches. <S> In those situations, there still should not be any loose ground wires - they should be connected to each other, to metal boxes or capped - they should not be floating around loose as you found. <S> Simply connecting wires "because it is there" doesn't usually end very well. <S> As for your specific original problem, my hunch is you have a fluorescent light that needs a new ballast and/or starter and/or bulb. <A> Given the history of what you did, I think you should be calling an electrician. <A> Not an electrician, or an expert, but I believe the copper wire you're talking about is a grounding wire. <S> In a home, it's typically attached between the switches ground post and the metal switch box enclosure. <S> The enclosure is then grounded inside the wall. <S> I am not sure how a trailer would be grounded, perhaps by a grounding post that you place in the earth after travelling? <S> I'm not sure what kind of damage you may have caused by connecting to Neutral or Hot, but you likely did do some damage either to your fuse/breaker or to your appliances. <S> You should definitely leave the grounding copper wire attached to the metal switch box if it was attached previously. <S> As others mentioned, I would seek out the help of an electrician. <A> This is a wiring fault, specifically, an arc fault. <S> It is a firestarter. <S> Really, given your level of skill and confidence, and the fact that you are literate, I suggest getting a well-rounded basic primer on the art of electrical work. <S> Google won't provide this, hit a library and try several of their books on electrical until you find one that seems like it speaks to you. <S> Then move through the house, looking at every box (particularly those which lose power when the fuse is pulled). <S> Look for anything that's not right. <S> If you have backstab connections, change them to side screws. <S> If a socket or switch looks damaged or worn out, change it. <S> When you do this at one location, the problems will just go away.
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You likely tripped a circuit breaker, blew a fuse or burned out a component somewhere. I highly recommend getting a professional electrician to help at this point. You have likely damaged the circuit. I would start by eliminating the appliances by moving them to a room that is still working.
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Are these integrated diagonal wall braces structurally important? I was helping a friend expand the width of a closet door, and when we pulled the drywall off the interior wall frame, we noticed some 45-degree wall braces in the interior wall. I am pretty sure they are just for convenience during construction (e.g. a bother to remove once the frames are fully built or just there for drywall to be nailed into). However, I am not an expert, so I wasn't sure if these were structural (maybe some type of shear wall support?) or not. In case it matters, the house was built in 1951 and is in western Georgia. All the wooden beams, including the angled ones, are held in place with 4inch nails. Are these angle braces safe to remove and leave out? The entire cutaway area (sans drywall) would be a closet door with a frame of two 2x4s above and a vertical 2x4 on either side. <Q> The exterior wall extends a long distance on either side of the TEE <S> And the exterior wall is parallel to ceiling joists and floor joists And has a high gable end wall above this area. <S> You will see less of this with much construction moving toward 2x6 studding for exterior walls. <S> Metal X banding nailed to the face of the studs <S> is also a better way to achieve this result. <S> Repeating from Isherwood. <S> Make sure to put double stud at the left and right side of your opening. <S> A single 2x4 is just not stiff enough and you will really appreciate it being there when you come to install door casing or trim. <A> Temporary braces are nailed to the face of the wall, not fit into it. <S> That was intended as a structural member by the carpenter. <S> That said, it's almost certainly not critical. <S> The entirety of the other nearby walls and the roof structure likely provide many times what that one brace does in diagonal support. <S> Also, you don't see that technique used anymore. <S> I wouldn't hesitate to remove the portion that impedes your progress. <S> __| || <S> || <S> ||__|____|_______| <A> We have a few of those in our walls. <S> Unless the builder was lying that's earthquake bracing.
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Sometimes framing of a short internal wall that TEE's into an exterior wall is braced that way if the exterior wall is: Intention was to eliminate a lot of flex in the exterior wall both during construction and when there is possibility of large gusty wind loads on the wall. I do suggest a doubled stud, however, and you might want to orient at least one of your header members vertically, for stiffness: Local code does not require them but our builder was from a place with an appreciable earthquake threat and it was cheaper to build with the existing plans than draw up new ones lacking the earthquake bracing.
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Repair tiny hole/scratch in copper pipe I discovered a very tiny hole/scratch in a copper pipe in my basement this morning. It looks like the scratch was caused by a screw that was holding up some wood paneling. The hole is in the middle of a run (not at a joint) and drips only once every 5 or 10 seconds. The pipe carries water from the boiler, so ideally the less surgery the better to repair it. Apologies for the not great image...hopefully you can see the small scratch on the left side along with the water pooling on the pipe in the middle. I have a plumber coming out this afternoon but this seems like something I should be able to fix myself with a little solder or something else. Any recommendations? <Q> I have not seen patches hold up on copper. <S> What I find best is to cut it at the hole and sweat a coupler on. <S> It must be dry when you do the soldering or it will leak. <A> But I'd only consider it a temporary repair. <S> the right way is to cut the pipe and solder in a coupler. <A> You could clean the copper, drop the boiler pressure to near zero <S> so the drip stops and lay on a coat of fast dry epoxy. <S> These are 2 ideas, hope this helps <S> Also, Home DEpot sells a 1/2" copper compression X compression repair coupling in a 12 lingth length. <A> A common option in the UK (dunno if they are available in other countries) for fixing damaged copper pipes is a compression repair coupler . <S> The coupling has compression fittings on both ends only one of which has a depth stop, so after cutting the pipe you can slide the fitting onto one pipe and then slide it back onto the other with minimal movement of the pipe ends. <A> Of course, this requires a couple of inches clearance all around to allow soldering safely. <S> Anymore, I'd just buy a SharkBite coupling , cut the pipe at the defect, then install that coupling. <A> An option I haven't seen suggested, but one that I've seen several times and employed at least once myself, is to use a clamp to secure a rubber gasket. <S> or you can cobble your own with a piece of inner tube and a hose clamp. <S> I wouldn't recommend these for concealed use, but where the patch will be accessible <S> I think they're fine, and probably code-accepted in at least some cases. <A> If the pipe sizes in your country do telescoping, then the next size up in copper pipe will fit exactly over your pipe as a sleeve. <S> I would cut a small section of sleeve, removing the scratched section, and solder the sleeve into place.
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What I've done in the past is to saw a coupler in half lengthwise, use a file to remove the center ridge (unless you can find a "repair coupler" that lacks the ridge), thoroughly clean and flux the pipe and inside of the coupler, tie half of the coupler on with bare copper wire (after cleaning/fluxing it), then (after making sure the pipe is perfectly dry inside) sweat-solder the assembly. You could lay a coating of solder on the pipe, preferably a silver bearing alloy, but you would have to drain that pipe and have "it bone dry". I've had some success with this stuff - it's basically a fiber tape soaked in something like gorilla glue. There are commercially made clamps
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Can I upsize my air conditioner if I have a two-speed compressor? The upper floor of my house has a split A/C, three-ton. When the temperature gets up above about 95 Fahrenheit, the unit can't keep the upstairs cool. That means that for a few weeks a year, my kids' bedrooms are still almost 80 when it's time to put them to bed. That's not really acceptable. Multiple technicians say there's nothing wrong with the unit. I understand that A/C units are sized to keep you comfortable 99% of the year, so it looks like I'm just struggling with that 1%. My attic has an approximate R value of 32. Not super, but the calculators I've seen indicate that upgrading to 49 won't pay for itself in less than twenty years. So I don't think insulation is the main issue. The house is about eleven years old, so I expect the compressor to require replacement any minute. I could upgrade to a larger unit, but then you run into short-cycling issues. But what if I got a larger unit with a two-stage compressor? For example, I could get a Goodman GSX14 three-ton as a direct replacement, but I could also get a GSXC16 four-ton. Would the ability to run at half-speed compensate for the short-cycling concerns, and allow me to have a higher peak rating without the downside of lost dehumidification? An alternate solution would be to get some portable 12,000 BTU units and just use those during the peak temperatures. But I'm not sure if that might have other side-effects. <Q> During the AC season close off outlets that go to the cooler area of your house, and be sure the other outlets are wide open. <S> Put in a brand new, low restriction furnace air filter. <S> Keep curtains closed all day on the sunny side of the house. <S> After these steps you may use a portable on the lower floor if you need it. <S> As long as the portable unit has 2 air ducts going outside, it will have no adverse effect on your central system. <S> Also, be sure to have the central AC set so that it comes on well before noon. <S> If you wait until it feels like it's getting too warm ... then the system will never catch up. <A> It depends on the size of the inside units, with split systems I usually use larger inside units that are needed, this allows for each zone to do its job, downstairs units won't require as much cooling in the summer but upstairs units need more, the reverse is usually true in the winter. <S> If the inside units are not large enough it would be a waste of $ to put in a big outside unit. <A> I suggest adding a room size window unit to each room ( such as 6,000 BTU). <S> They are inexpensive , simple to install and should be no problem for your electric system. <S> Larger units like 12,000 would put a large stress on your electrics. <S> When I lived in Houston I had 2 AC units ; about 4 ton whole house and a 2 ton upstairs only. <S> You could add a similar central unit for upstairs <S> but it would be substantially more expensive than the small room units. <S> I would not mess with your existing central unit by closing off vents, etc. <S> Currently my central unit is fine but my spouse likes the bedroom extra cool <S> so I added a window unit in the bedroom rather than lowering the temperature of the whole house.
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With mini splits each zone only heats or cools when there is a demand so if the compressor was undersized but the inside units were properly sized a larger outside unit may do the job and make your home comfort just right.
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How big a hole can I drill in a top plate? I've got a 2nd story home theater room under construction. The framing has been done, but I'm going to be doing the wiring myself. I want to pass some conduit up into the attic space over the room for speaker and network cable. I've been reading the IRC 2015, and the wording for drilling into top-plates isn't clear. Seemingly all it references is if the hole is over 50% in width, then I need a galvanized metal tie on the side (both sides?) for support. It's a double top-plate, and I don't think it's load bearing, but will have to double check. Can I run a 1 1/8" hole through the top-plate without the tie? How close can I get to the side of the top-plate? Do the R602.6 rules rules for drilling/notching studs apply to top-plates? If yes, does that mean I can go up to 2" hole for conduit as that's under the 60% limit as the top-plate is doubled (obviously needing a tie)? Edit: I read elsewhere that NEC 2017 would also apply and they state holes should not be drilled closer than 1 1/4" from the nearest edge, unless a metal plate is installed OR the cable is housed in rigid nonmetallic conduit. I'm using PVC so it sounds like I can safely go over the 1" max size (3.5" - 2 x 1.25") without any extra plating. I don't know if this even applies though as it's all low-voltage cable I'm pushing through. Found an image and it does look like it might be load bearing, although the space to the left of that picture is completely open to the attic with the same roofline for another 15 feet, so I don't know. Architectural plans: <Q> The electrical code doesn't care about structural strength. <S> The reason for the electrical code requirement is so that your drywallers, TV mounters, picture hangers, baseboard fitters, etc. can use 1-1/4" (without drywall) or 1-3/4" (with drywall) nails and screws with no chance whatsoever of piercing an electrical cable or conduit. <A> First, it’s not at the perimeter of the roof. <S> It appears that a covered area extends beyond the wall in question. <S> (Exterior perimeter walls, beams, etc. <S> transfer roof loads to walls, etc. <S> Second, those jogs in the building design allow bracing to transfer from the roof to the walls. <A> I have seen situations where the wall was completely severed to run plumbing. <S> While this is not ideal, it is still solid because it is fastened to the trusses and connected together with drywall or osb as in your case.
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That size hole in that location is not a problem.
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How can I loosen a hard-to-reach square nut whose holder is broken? I've been attempting to disassemble a generator at work to replace the starter cord. Being a suitcase-type generator, it's proved to be excessively painstaking. However, it's almost apart - I just have one bolt holding the remaining cover onto the generator. Unfortunately, I can't get the bolt undone. The bolt is a fairly standard hex bolt, with the head on the outside of the generator. I can get a socket over the bolt just fine. My problem lies inside the generator with the nut, which is a square nut that's supposed to sit in a plastic holder to stop it from turning when you try to loosen the bolt. Annoyingly, the plastic holder is broken, so when I try to get the bolt out, it just results in the bolt and nut turning endlessly in the holder. Being as the nut and holder are inside the generator, they're fairly difficult to get at - I've removed the side panel, so I have some access, but it's fairly limited. There's enough space to get a screwdriver in onto the top of the nut, but not much more - certainly not enough to get a socket or spanner or pliers onto the nut. I should also note that this bolt will require significant torque to get started - it's been tightened by a power tool of some sort (no idea what); our rather limited selection of power tools don't have enough torque to do the job. It is possible to do by hand, with some effort - I've got the other bolts off - but this does mean that whether I'm trying to turn the bolt or keep the nut in place, it takes a lot of force. A liberal application of WD40 hasn't helped; nor has any other combination of tools I've managed to come up with. What else can I do to get this bolt off? <Q> Sounds like a nice project for a couple hours that grows into a multi-weekend odyssey! <S> OPTION 1 <S> I'd wedge a couple of thin paint scrapers under the exposed bolt head outside the shell of the unit, and take the bolt's head off with an angle grinder and a thin cut-off wheel BUT CONSIDER spark danger - given this is a generator there was probably petrol or diesel in the area. <S> You'll want to vent it absolutely to remove all trace of gas fumes. <S> And do this outside, with an extinguisher and sand handy. <S> Once the bolt head is off, the bolt should drop into the housing and you can fish it out when the covers are removed. <S> Assembly, well that's not the reverse. <S> You'll want to find some way to bolt it together without risking the same again. <S> A dirty hack is to put a new longer bolt in from the inside-to-outside. <S> The nut will be on the outside and a bit of thread should be exposed. <S> You can file two spanner-flats into the thread before or after assembly. <S> Or you could hacksaw a flat slot across the end for a screwdriver. <S> Also consider what other bolts on the unit might do the same in the future, and either reinforce their mounts with epoxy or fibreglass, or preemptively do a similar bolt hack. <S> Option 2 <S> - Cut the casing around the bolt head, and deal with it once the cover is off. <S> You'll probably want to do a patch job on the case after-ward to control fumes etc. <S> Option 3 - Make a tool to suit. <S> This is probably the most laborious solution, but you know exactly where the nut is and how long your tool would have to be. <S> From http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67243773-dodgy-homemade-distributor-spanner <S> Given how cheap tools are these days, there's no shame in sacrificing a cheap combo ring/open spanner to get the angle or reach you require. <S> Example: <S> From https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8qN9oK8Hzc <A> It's good that there is at least some access to the square nut. <S> There is a tool called a cotter pin puller. <S> If you can get the point to jam alongside the nut, it should hold while you rotate the bolt head. <S> Cotter pin pullers are variously sized and shaped. <S> Bent a coathanger to simulate the size needed, then get the tool. <A> I faced a similar proposition last year. <S> I bought an older house that had an ourdoor natural gas grill at some point and the top had literally rusted off <S> so all I had left was this rusty column that ended in all sorts of jagged edges. <S> It was bolted to a holder probably set in concrete that was built of something sturdier than the grill was. <S> WD40 availed me not. <S> What I did was <S> I used my reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut the bolts off. <S> Noisy and painstaking, but it got the job done. <S> Once the bolt is cut off, I would buy another from the local hardware store (get a nylon locking nut <S> so it's easier next time) <S> and you can ensure it will come off if you do this again.
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Since your bolt is already loose, you should have daylight to get the blade between the nut and the plate (i.e. you don't need to damage the generator) and cut the nut off. Or sometimes bike chain can be used to grab something you can't otherwise get to.
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Can I run 8 4 bulb fluorescent fixtures only on one breaker? Electrical would 14 gauge wire 15amp breaker or should I use 12 gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker. It’s just lights only! <Q> I am assuming the fixture you are referring to is something like a 2X4 layin or surface mount fixture with 4' fluorescent lamps. <S> We used to use a rule of thumb of 200W per fixture. <S> So 200*4 = 1600W or <S> 13 1/3A if you voltage is 120V. <S> A 15A circuit can only handle 12A worth of this type of load which means a 15A circuit can't handle your load. <S> You can use a 20A circuit which would handle 16A of this type of load. <S> That is what I would recommend. <A> It really depends on the power factor of your ballasts On a 15A circuit, your "budget" for continuous load is 1440 watts, or to be more precise, 1440 VA . <S> This gives you a budget of 180VA per lamp, or 1.5 amps. <S> Watts is the power you are billed for. <S> VA is the power the wires must carry. <S> As such, the wire rating is contingent on VA, not watts. <S> Fluorescent and LED conversions (especially cheap LEDs) often a much higher VA than watts. <S> This must be watched closely. <S> The difference between VA and watts is because power is AC ( alternating current) - electronic loads behave oddly as the voltage changes, for instance a rectifier draws only when the AC waveform is near its peak. <S> So it draws higher current(amps) during peak than its actual usage (watts) would imply, and we must provide wire for that. <S> Its A (amp) rating accurately reflects that peak, as does VA. <S> So there is no substitute here for either looking for labeling on the fixture, or popping the cover off a fixture and looking for the ballasts (there may be two) and adding up the listed amps or VA. <S> We can't guess because even if you know the tubes, ballasts differ in how hard they drive the tubes (ballast factor) and can vary substantially in power factor. <S> if your ballasts are beyond spec, you should be able to change ballasts to others that will be within spec. <S> If called for, you can upgrade to T8 ballsts and tubes at this time, or direct-Wire LED. <S> However, beware: <S> the "cheapie" LEDs found on Amazon Marketplace and the bottom shelf of your favorite store are of dubious origin, and the A and VA numbers are certainly a lie. <A> 200W x 4 = 800w which is easy for a 15A x 110v = 1650W capable circuit. <S> 200W seems quite high though fir a ballast. <S> The last 2 bulb ballast I removed was 55W. <S> led might be better still. <S> https://www.amazon.com/garages-Daylight-Ceiling-Wrapround-Worklight/dp/B078B7KG1R/
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If you still want to investigate using a 15A circuit, we would need more information on your fixture such as lamp and ballast type. These fixtures also need to be calculated as continuous duty or a circuit can only be loaded to 80%.
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Why do the bedrooms in my home have split switched outlets? My wife and I are renting a house that was built around 2007 in Washington State. It has a peculiar wiring arrangement that I've never seen before. Every bedroom and the living room has two switches near the entry - one for the ceiling mounted light fixture and the other for wall outlets. Not just one wall outlet, but every single one. Each outlet is split so the top is always on and the bottom is switched. I find this to be a horrible idea, because it essentially eliminates half the plugs in each room, resulting in more power strips and extension cords. My recollection of building codes is that there has to be a switched outlet if there is no ceiling fixture - is that still current? If so, why would the house be wired this way - is it local custom in certain parts of the country, or perhaps just a unique request from the original homeowner? <Q> Tab in place, the 2 screws are connected so 1 wire can feed both sockets and the second screw can carry power onward to the next socket. <S> Tab broken off, the 2 screws are separated and the 2 sockets can be controlled individually. <S> Typically you break off the "hot" tab, and feed one socket with the red wire, the other with the black wire. <S> You could replace with a socket with the tab not broken off. <S> Connect only the black (typically always-hot) wire, and simply cap off the red wire with a wire-nut (and tape), or <S> if somehow the old socket was used to splice the supply and onward red wires, join them with a wire nut. <S> Tenant law prohibits you doing the work yourself without permission. <S> So check with your permit issuing authority, but it's likely that merely changing a receptacle is something a licensed electrician is not needed for. <S> Tell them you want to do it for aesthetic reasons <S> , don't go so far as mentioning the desired change in function. <A> Is it possible that the house was originally not wired with ceiling fixtures and the ceiling fixtures were added later? <S> A long shot possibility is that this wiring was designed as a safety measure to allow shutting off receptacles to protect a child or a (cord chewing) dog from shock or electrocution. <S> EDIT <S> This was a speculative suggestion on my part motivated by my finding that our new dog had chewed two cords all the way to conductors that were plugged into switched outlets that were off. <S> This was what I imagined: The house was built by a family of dog lovers who knew they would have a succession of young dogs who will go through the "chew on everything" phase. <S> While they have a dog in that phase they plug everything in certain rooms in switched receptacles. <S> These are rooms that the dog would be in unsupervised. <S> Another possibility for switching half of all the receptacles in a room is to be able to turn off all "parasitic" draws with one switch. <S> (Of course, to be effective this would require that loads of this category be plugged into the switched receptacles.) <S> Some people say that the total of parasitic draws in a house is significant. <A> Actually this is much more expensive wiring method than most, I have been asked to do this on 1 home over my years in Oregon , can it be changed yes, but as a renter you cannot do it legally.
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This is a rather easy problem to fix Modern receptacles have 2 sockets, and a nifty feature -- each side has 2 terminal screws, and a nifty break-off "tab" between them. Residential law requires you to "pull a permit" for any substantial electrical work, but excluded from that is trivial work such as "changing a receptacle". Landlord law requires them to hire a licensed electrician for any work done in the rental unit. Another possibility is to allow multiple switched lamps all around the room.
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How to remove tap with too much tape i think i've screwed this up and put too much tape on and can't for the life of me, turn it the other way round so that the tape isn't exposed so much. Anyway ideas? <Q> The fact that you can see the tape has no bearing on the success of the job. <S> If it doesn't leak consider the job well done. <S> If the exposed tape gives you worry that someone will see the tape and say it is a bad job, tell them that is how much you had to use to get a tight seal. <S> If you really want to remove the excess tape, take a wire brush and carefully use it to remove the excess tape. <A> Expand the stuck female part with heat. <S> Start with boiling water <S> (I worry flame will oxidize and discolor that fancy brass). <S> Just that female part, not the whole thing because you don't want the male part to expand. <S> When heated the metal will expand and grip less tightly. <S> Alternatively you could try the same thing with cold on the male part - shrink it down. <S> I had luck with dry ice for something like that once. <A> easy work to undo if you own a vice, monkey wrench, or even a good set of workshop clamps... <S> simply clamp the end and let the levarage work for you. <S> if you have a vice, use some wood to protect the brass from damage.
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That tape has a great way of gripping the seal, but once broken, it will be easy to undo. You could try heating up the part without the handle (female part).
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How to get rid of cockroaches using natural products? They come from open junction box on kitchen wall, and they spotted around fridge. Recently been seeing one or two in bedrooms. I think its because I sprayed Raid in the kitchen. This been going around for a month or more now. The type looks to be german cockroaches. Where I live there arnt known brand pest control products to use, and the ones that are available dont always list their ingredients. So what natural everyday things I can find that can kill them once and for all? I put generic bait around the fridge, but I still see them now in other places. To stop them from getting into bedrooms, i spray Raid on the floor. <Q> It's inexpensive, effective, and relatively safe. <S> It's easy to dust in the cracks and crevasses and gaps and spaces where they hide. <S> Diatomaceous earth is another alternative that I have heard is just as safe and effective, but boric acid has worked so well I haven't bothered to try it. <A> I've heard that hot sauce or anything spicy hot will deter them. <S> There is also electronic repellants that produce radio waves on a frequency that they cannot stand that they'll run from. <S> But make sure that it's a good brand and one that can penetrate through walls <A> Natural solution that helped me was spiders. <S> They love eating them. <S> Aside from that, you need to find their nests which is easily identified by their droppings beneath and kill them. <S> Typical nest locations are dark, warm areas such as near hot water pipes under the sink. <S> Kill the eggs as well. <S> Good luck!
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I have had great luck with boric acid based products for ants and roaches and just about any bug.
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Garage Door Won't Close, Reverts near bottom, Why? Background: Our doors are made out of wood. They are extremely heavy and around 30+ years old. Recently we notice our 3rd garage door stopping near the bottom of the track when closing and reverting back up. The only way to keep the garage from reverting back up everytime, is to manually guide the garage door from by hand and apply a bit of pressure so that it doesn't trigger the door to stop and reverse. We don't have any sensors on our doors. One thing I did also notice is that our spring is completely rusted out. Couple of videos of what's happening when it's opening and closing. https://streamable.com/mv8yd https://streamable.com/2xsf3 <Q> Garage motors have a torque sensor to minimise the crushing risk. <S> this means that if the motor is under too much load, it will automatically stop. <S> My guess is that your track is bent, or dirty and is creating too much friction for the motor. <S> you can test the opening and closing force by releasing the motor (pulling the wire to bypass the motor) and manually opening and closing the garage door. <S> (do you see that its difficult to open at any point?) <S> the solution is to clean the tracks with a cloth and apply some grease... <S> now garage vendors dont like you greasing your own track, so check your warantee first... but you will be amazed what a good greasing will do to the tracks... regarding the type of grease to use, i would check with the motor manufacturer, the reason they dont like it is becuase grease can attract dust if you are in a dusty area, typically I simply apply a petrolium based grease on a clean track and 99% of the time the problem goes away. <A> First see if the spring is weak or set wrong. <S> Do this by disconnecting the trolley and see how difficult it is to raise the door by hand. <S> Raise the door to about 5 feet up from the garage floor and release it. <S> Does the door stay in position or does it fall to the floor? <S> If it falls, then the spring should be wound tighter until the door stays in position. <S> Winding the spring tighter is a professional job unless you are experienced in how to do this safely. <S> EDIT <S> You have an old door and an old opener. <S> You report that you have no sensors on the doors. <S> I assume you mean the optical sensor which reverses the door if the beam is interrupted. <S> This has been standard on residential openers for decades (not generally required for openers in industrial use), but getting a new opener with these sensors could prevent damage to equipment or injury to a pet or to a person, especially to a child. <S> It is almost certainly time to call a competent professional service to evaluate the the condition of the door and opener and perform maintenance. <A> The wood of your door is hitting the end of a board. <S> You can see this in both of your videos. <S> Screenshot below from about 0.17; it is about to hit. <S> I circled where it hits. <S> You can see that the paint has been worn off the door at that spot from hitting. <S> To test it, put something like a piece of putty or dough on the edge of that wooden support. <S> If I am right it will smash flat against the door at that spot. <S> Why it is hitting is another matter. <S> If the board were loose it would hit the door earlier. <S> If you see it is hitting, take that board off and see how it goes. <S> Maybe you can flip it around and put it back on if that is the issue. <S> I am very envious at how clean your garage is. <S> Or maybe you cleared out the spiders for the video. <A> So after doing a bit more research about garage maintenance. <S> My gut was telling me it had something to do with that spring. <S> Since it seemed rusted out and the loud sounds were coming directly from the spring. <S> I ended up getting a can of WD-40 Protective White Lithium Grease. <S> I sprayed all the wheels, and specifically sprayed the "rusted out" Spring. <S> I sprayed it twice. <S> After doing so, those large Bangs you hear in the video are now gone and the garage door closes once again smoothly
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I suspect the wood of your door is warped at that one place.
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