source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
What are the advantages of the different clipless systems? In the past I have used the Look road pedals and the SPD system, however I know that there are many other systems, including some that work purely on magnets. What are the advantages of the various systems, and when would you recommend them? <Q> I have used SPD and Crank Brothers <S> (I have a set of Mallets on my mountain bike, and Candy SLs on my road bike). <S> Both the Mallet and the Candy are built around the egg beaters. <S> I have to say I greatly prefer the Crank Brothers. <S> Entry/exit is very easy. <S> They have a decent amount of float, which is great for mountain biking, because it allows you to move around on the pedals if you need to. <S> It's not as great for road biking, but I have the cleats on my road shoes set for the "less float" and <S> the easy entry/exit makes it worthwhile. <S> No tension screws to adjust, and fewer moving parts to maintain. <S> Just a spring, basically. <S> This is not to say that the SPD system is bad. <S> Your mileage may vary. <A> I am a big guy, and have ridden SPD (Mountain bike version, not SPD-R) and Look systems. <S> I like have the bigger platform to stand and connect with. <S> Walking in SPD's is usually (depends on the shoe of course) way easier than in Look cleats. <S> SpeedPlay are pretty good I am told, and some people swear by Crank Brothers Egg Beaters. <A> I have SPDs on my commuter.
|
Easy to clip out of, you can walk in the shoes, shoes are cheaper, you can still (just about) use the pedals with ordinary shoes in an emergency.
|
Heavier Thicker Chains and Gears for Winter due to Salt? I have two bikes: one having gear-things outside and one with inner-hub. The gear-outside-bike has suffered a lot due to the salt during this winter, the other hilariously looks like a new one. I noticed that some XC bikes have very thick chains and the metal used in chain is different, a owner told me that he changed to a thicker chain during winter. I am planning to do similar upgrade to my salted chains that salt has destroyed during the winter and perhaps to gears as well -- actually I must change everything at once because leaving destroyed gear-round-things would destroy new chain pretty quickly (heard this from an engineer). So: What should I look in chains and the gears for winter? When switching to larger gear-round-things and thicker chains, are there some special restrictions? I have currently (3x9, 3 front and 9 back) gears. <Q> Bike chains come in two sizes, 1/8inch (aka BMX chain) and 3/32inch (aka 9 speed chain). <S> 1/8inch chains are designed for single speed or internal hub geared bicycles and the chain is designed in such a way that it can not be derailed from the sprocket. <S> A 3/32inch chain is designed for a derailleur geared bicycle and is designed to ease shifting from one sprocket to another. <S> The thickness of the chain will have little if anything to do with how the chain behaves or wears due to road salt. <S> The trick to lubing a chain is to use a rag to remove any dirt. <S> Then apply a small amount of a thick bicycle chain oil to the inside side of the chain (the top side of the chain at the bottom side of the bike, or the bottom side of the chain at the top side of the bike, if that makes sense). <S> Finally, spin the chain good and proper to get the lube into the chain <S> (it's useless if it's sitting on the outside of the chain, it needs to work its way inside the links) and then use the rag to remove any excess. <S> Excess chain oil sitting on the outside of the chain will attract dirt which will cause your chain to wear prematurely. <A> Here's one at work on my bakfiets: <S> This works so well <S> , I intentionally choose this bike to ride on rainy or snowy, slushy days. <S> I've had our bakfiets about 4 years now, and have only oiled the chain once that I recall, when the chaincase happened to be removed for some other maintenance. <S> Besides the bakfiets, another bike available in the US with a fully-enclosed chainguard is the Breezer Uptown Infinity . <A> I assume you mean chunkier chain and cassette, usually cheaper? <S> If so, I suspect cheaper is the main benefit. <S> But you do get more metal with the cheaper chains and cassettes, so perhaps they will last longer in the muck. <S> Since the derailler system will only last one winter, the less you spend on it the better. <S> As Paul James said, you can't fit singlespeed chain and expect it to work with derailleur gears. <S> IMO <S> a better solution is a chaincase on the hub geared bike and stick to that in winter. <S> Even the something like the Hebie Chainglider will help a lot and is easier to retrofit than a proper chaincase (http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/product/chainglider-33772). <S> The full metal case (or fragile plastic on the modern Dutch bikes) means you can basically ignore the chain unless you actually immerse it in water. <S> Possibly one of the Hebie products that gives less coverage will help. <S> A DIY version of that is to use black plastic poly pipe (from a garden shop) over the horizontal parts of the chain. <S> You only need a metre of it <S> so cost isn't really an issue. <S> Recumbents use this all the time because they usually have a lot of chain and run it close to the rider, so it's a "known good" solution for them. <S> Whether it actually helps on a safety bike I don't know.
|
People have many different views on how to keep your chain happy and prevent it from wearing, my advice would be to either invest in a full chaincase (for a singlespeed bike) or to dry and lube your chain after it has gotten wet. The best option for protecting a bike chain from the elements is a fully enclosed chain guard.
|
Brakes periodically make "finger nails on chalk board" sound Both my rim brakes --- front and back --- have started to make a periodic noise when I engage them. They will be silent for a little bit, then gradually start to make noise. As I brake, the noise will increase and eventually culminate in a very loud noise, and then be quiet again to restart the cycle. This is definitely independent of speed or how much I've been riding that day. The cycle seems to repeat itself every 1-3 days. The noise is best described as finger nails on a chalkboard. It is definitely not a squeal. Why does this happen? I suspect my pads are getting worn, but they are not past the indicator lines yet. The bike is a little over a year old and has gotten "medium" use. <Q> Sounds that bikes make are difficult to describe. <S> "Fingernails on a chalk board", so sort of a high pitched dry scraping noise, not a squeal, squeak or scream? <S> That sounds like something ceramic, stone or metal rubbing against the metal rim to me. <S> The last loud noise where it then goes quiet could be whatever it is getting turned just before getting entirely dislodged. <S> Does that sound about right? <S> I'm not an expert, but my best guesses: <S> Poorly made brake pads made with chunks of stuff in them. <S> You're picking up some sort of grit that's getting stuck in the brake pad. <S> The consistent pattern points much more to the pads being manufactured that way. <S> But I've had similar kinds of sounds when I picked up a bit of sand on the rims. <S> Brake pads aren't solid rubber/poly-whatever, the're actually a compound, typically with a sort of ceramic or metallic material embedded in the rubber-like material. <S> Poorly made brake pads can have large chunks of that material instead of consistent fine particles. <S> Either way, when the noise starts, examine the brake pads. <S> It's quite possible <S> it's something the size of a grain of sand, not a huge chunk. <S> And if it definitely looks like it's something that the pad was manufactured with in it, consider replacing the pads with a different brand; It's likely that your rims are getting worn faster. <A> I'm reasonably confident that this is just another variation of brake chatter. <S> The pads are generally "toed in" so that the front of the pad contacts the rim first, but as they wear that "toe-in" effect is lost, and you get chatter (which can be anything from a high-pitched squeal to a rasping sound). <S> The chatter is caused by the "heel" of the pad grabbing, rocking the brake arm forward, then releasing. <S> Do of course check the rims for any sign of gouging, and check the pads for any dirt, etc. <S> (And of course check that the pads are not worn out.) <S> But probably you will find nothing beyond ordinary wear. <S> Try to avoid too much, though, as it increases <S> (uneven) pad wear and reduces brake effectiveness. <A> A potential cause is the alignment of your brake pads. <S> Pads needs to be adjusted and aligned so that the front-edge of the pad hits the rim slightly before the rear-edge of the pad hits--this is called the "toe-in". <S> Improper toe-in results in your brakes very rapidly grabbing and slipping from the rim; this happens fast enough you only hear the effect--and it sounds terrible. <S> The trick I was shown for adjusting toe-in is to loosen the brake shoe; insert something ~0.5-1.0mm thick under the rear-edge of the brake while holding the brakes down, then re-tightening. <S> A second set of hands can be great for this--but you can also just put a rubber band around the pad and tie a knot in it to keep it in place. <S> Your goal is to have the back of the pad slightly further from the rim from the front.
|
You can ignore the sound, or adjust your brake pads to restore a degree of toe-in. You'll probably see something embedded in the pad that you can pry out with something pointy (screwdriver, tip of a knife) or scrape out with a razorblade.
|
When is Cyclometer useful? Some call it speedometer or odometer but I mean the thing to measure velocity, trip distance and such things. When you come up with a usage-case, please, point out the function which you use. The only thing where I may need a speedometer is to know when to lubricate e.g. after every 500km and to know the speed not to break speed limits. So very simple cheap one should be enough. Not sure about terminology, whether speedometer, odometer or cyclometer. The first ones just return the cheapest units: ~2.75USD (ebay) and 5.04USD (dx) , perhaps Chinese are abusing the language or different English. <Q> Speedometer = device which measures speed. <S> Odometer = device which measures distance traveled. <S> Cycle computers can normally do both (plus many other features you may or may not need). <S> Are they absolutely necessary for cycling? <S> No, but they can be quite helpful in many cases. <S> You may be trying to determine where you are on a map, how far until the next turn, how far to the next town, etc. <S> If you're training, being able to track your performance over time can also be handy. <A> I can think of two possible reasons why you might want to use an odometer/speedometer. <S> (Note: sometimes it is also called a cyclometer .) <S> A. Tracking fitness/training goals (especially if you are into racing). <S> If you want to compete in an endurance race, you will want to prepare for it by conditioning yourself to cycle consistently at a sustained speed for long periods of time. <S> Or, if you are just looking to improve your fitness, a heart rate monitor in combination with a speedometer is very useful for finding the heart rate or pace at which you can get the best cardiovascular exercise. <S> B. <S> If you don't care much about fitness or racing, a speedometer and/or odometer can be nice if you are just curious about how far you can cycle or how fast you can go. <S> Most speedometers will show the maximum speed of your trip, so after a descent/sprint you can check how fast you were going. <S> And of course, an odometer can help you figure out how far you have cycled in a given time period (daily, weekly, monthly, etc.). <S> From that, you can find out how much money you have saved on bus fare/gasoline, etc. <S> by cycling instead. <A> I use my speedo/odo for training purposes. <S> It has a cadence sensor, so I can keep my cadence at 90rpm. <S> It has a lap timer, so I can track my pace on the 5k loop I ride on. <S> It accumulates mileage <S> , so I have a sense of my weekly distance. <S> The fancy ones have wireless sensors so you don't need to route wires, built in GPS, a heart monitor, a computer interface for uploading your workouts, etc. <S> Mine cost me $20 USD, took about 15 minutes to install, and does everything I need. <S> I know where I'm going, <S> and I know where on the loop my heart's about to explode. <A> I am partly generalizing current replies but added some new ones. <S> I am not sure yet which unit correspond to my needs, perhaps just trying the cheapest one like this (2.75USD, shipped) . <S> I can imagine all of my usage cases below would be satisfied with an odometer. <S> A. Business <S> I bought my bike as second-hand <S> and it made a good impression when the seller gave all stats about the bike usage like 10k driven, it is 2 years old but been in heavy use. <S> I calculated the price with 25% demortization rate p.a. <S> (pessimistily to 3 years) and added a risk factor that depended on the driven distance. <S> So it was easy for me to pay a fair price. <S> Please, do not interpret the last thing wrong. <S> I bought the bike from auction-site and since I knew the lawful price for it, I made considerably higher bid than the next highest bid (not wanting to waste time) <S> so I think a good example where quantifying bike usage is good for both parties. <S> And am I happy? <S> Sure I am, superb bike <S> and I do like fixing some trivial bugs in it like fenders and pedals. <S> B. Maintenance Seen suggestions such as lubricate every 300miles (about every 500km). <S> C. Orienting <S> You don't always know places, exactly, just something like 4.2 km along that street and then left. <S> If you know exactly your driven distance and don't want to look at the map all the time, I think odometer can make the journey much more pleasant, killing unnecessary zig-zagging.
|
When riding long distances (e.g. touring, randonneuring), it's often important to know how far you've traveled, so an odometer comes in handy.
|
How do I stop my brake from sticking? The rear brake (calliper) on my road bike sticks. When I pull the brake it pulls down but only half springs back and there's then slack in the leavers. This is causing rubbing on the rim. It's a fairly new bike (last year) so I wouldn't think it's just normal wear and tear. I've tried adjusting the tension using the adjuster and rebalancing but it doesn't seem to fix it. Any idea what the problem is and how it can be fixed? <Q> A few things off the top of my head: Not enough brake cable tension. <S> The amount of stretch can be more than the barrel adjuster can compensate for, so you would need to actually pull more cable through the cable clamp on the caliper. <S> Broken (or worn out) caliper spring. <S> Less likely, but you should be able to see if it's broken, depending on the model of brake. <S> Your LBS might also be able to replace the spring rather than buying a whole new caliper. <S> Frayed cable or housing causes cable to "catch" and not spring back. <S> The good news is that these are relatively cheap & easy to replace. <A> A friend brought me a bike with this problem, and after halfway disassembling the brake, I realized that the problem was that there's a little plastic sleeve that goes over the end of the spring, so that it can slide easily when the brake is applied. <S> You can see where it is circled in red in the picture, after being put back to the right place. <S> That sleeve had come out of position, so that spring was dragging directly on the brake body - much friction, not so good spring action. <S> Once I put it back in the position, everything worked more easily. <S> Just posting here since this is the top hit for "caliper brake sticking bicycle", to maybe save somebody else 20 minutes. <A> Lubricate everything, all moving parts of the calliper, inside the housing etc. <S> Wipe excess off. <S> Use a thin penetrating lubricant (tri-flo or similar, not WD40) <S> Be very careful not to contaminate pads, rims or disc rotors though. <S> I once had a sticky cable disc brake calliper (BB7) which I thought had a weak spring. <S> I was putting of the maintenance because I didn't want to get into the spring issue. <S> Anyway I rode with a dragging brake for a long time. <S> Then one day doing other maintenance I quickly oiled the calliper <S> and it completely fixed the problem. <S> An easy solution that I had put off for too long!
|
This is very likely if it's fairly new and hasn't been tuned up -- brake cables stretch over time, especially when new. Might be harder to find, you'll need to inspect the cables and housing for damage (may need to pull the cable out completely).
|
How can one prevent a tube from sticking to the inside of a tire? I was cleaning my cruiser today , and as part of that I removed the tires from the rims to give them a good scrubbing. As sometimes happens, the tubes were stuck to the insides of the tires. (This also happens with some of my other bikes sometimes.) While I was able to slowly peel the deflated tubes away from the tires, this can't be good for them! Is there a way that this can be avoided when reinstalling the tubes and tires onto the rims? This bike has had slow leaks in the past , and I'd like to take precautions against that happening again. <Q> Baby powder works great and is very inexpensive. <A> Nowadays 'baby powder' is made from corn starch rather than talcum powder, due to concerns that talcum powder gives cancer etc. <S> However, corn starch turns to an adhesive when wet. <S> Riding through creeks or in the rain could cause the tube to adhere to the tire. <S> The traditional substance for punctures is 'French Chalk', a.k.a. talcum powder. <S> To quote wikipedia : French chalk has also historically been used in the repair of punctured inner tubes of pneumatic tires, such as are found on bicycles. <S> A block of French chalk is typically included in proprietary puncture repair kits, which may include some means of generating a fine powder from the block, for example a small file or a roughened area on the metal case in which the repair kit may have been supplied. <S> It's also easier to remove the tube from the tire down the road. <A> Yeah, talcum powder is what you want -- it has a natural slipperiness like graphite. <S> Though cornstarch or any other powder would work fairly well. <S> (Graphite would be OK <S> but it's rather messy.) <S> It's especially good to use after making a patch, since the patch has a strong tendency to stick to the inside of the tire. <S> You used to be able to buy it packaged specifically for use in bike tires, though I haven't seen it in a bike shop in years. <S> (You clean your tires???) <A> As long as you don’t have any patches sticking to the tire and thus coming off it shouldn’t be much of a problem. <S> Talcum helps, as others have pointed out. <S> I was cleaning my cruiser today, and as part of that I removed the tires from the rims to give them a good scrubbing. <S> As sometimes happens, the tubes were stuck to the insides of the tires. <S> (This also happens with some of my other bikes sometimes.) <S> Why would you do that? <S> Cleaning the rims and brake pads: <S> Okay (though I’d still consider it a waste of effort), but you don’t have to remove the tire for that.
|
The other benefit of using talc (or cornstarch) is that it also helps to install the tire. The French chalk prevents the repair from sticking to other parts of the tire.
|
How to know a good pump? It's painful to pay the local price of 15-30€ for a pump that is "very good, durable and small". To me, it is just consumable that I will use until it breaks, so I have no interest in investing too much in such a thing. How can I know what the pump is like? Are there some factors to look at to judge its quality? <Q> I got a Topeak Pocket Rocket a few years back at the LBS spring sale for ~$25. <S> Works great. <S> I made $10 the first time I used it because I didn't have to pay a $35 cab fare to get back home after a flat on a country road. <S> Fits in my pocket, the nozzle has a snap-on cover, works with Presta/Schrader, it's made of aluminum, feels solid and most importantly gets my tires to an adequate pressure. <S> For floor pumps, you can check out this thread: <S> What is the best floor pump? <A> I think there are 3 main factors when reviewing a pump. <S> Valve connection method, clamp/screw. <S> Valve support (not every pump supports both types of bike valve, but most do) <S> How high a pressure tire do you need? <S> (some road bikes need really high, > 100 psi). <S> A lot of modern pumps use a clamp to secure to the valve. <S> These tend to be awkward when you're completely flat and quite challenging to pump assuming there is no hose between the pump and the clamp because you have to keep the pump rigid while pumping to prevent the connection being broken. <S> I personally favour the more old fashioned way of having a screw on hose. <S> There are some manufacturers who still do them. <S> They're also less likely to break off under high pressure. <S> There are some extra requirements that might be important to you. <S> Extra features - some contain compartments for puncture repair patches <S> Ease of pumping - pumps will push in different amounts of air per stroke so some are easy but take a long time to pump up. <S> I have a good bike fitting for my pump <S> but I don't use it on commutes because it's simpler to keep my pump in a pocket on my bag. <S> Once you've found one that looks like it meets your requirements check out the reviews on the bike shopping sites. <S> They should warn you of potential downfalls with the products. <S> Do it from flat on your own bike because that will give you the most realistic test of a pump. <S> Pumping an already inflated tire is too easy. <S> As far as practical recommendations go I personally recommend the small pumps from Lezyne . <S> (I would link to their own site but it's all flash.) <A> My advice: Get a floor pump with a pressure gauge and an easy way to switch between shraeder and presta. <S> and get one that is servicable . <S> I have the topeak Joe Blow. <S> Take a look at the dual nozzle. <S> Also get a portable pump. <S> There are several kinds that unfold and remove the pain of portable pumps (I could never get a good pressure in those because they require you to hold it steady while pumping. <S> (One time I tore my freaking valve off my inner tube) <S> I got a topeak road morph . <S> You can unfold a little foot brace, unfold the handle <S> and it has a flexible tube to attach to your valve, so <S> it is almost as easy to use as a floor pump. <S> I've saved myself some long walks and pumped up other's flats. <S> And it has taken abuse, is super light. <S> I think I got it for $35.00 US. <S> It also has a gauge and, according to this thread , is user-servicable. <A> In a small pump I would go for simple. <S> So no double rate fast/slow mechanism, no complex foldable handle Look for a presta adapter that won't just come off and get lost (assuming you need one) <S> Basically just look for solid feeling construction. <S> If you are carrying it on your bike I put electrical tape around the valve end to keep it clean. <S> If we are recomending individual products, I have one of these as an emergency 'get you home' pump. <S> It's presta (road bike) only, but that means no adapter to lose, it's very small and lives <S> duct-taped to the frame.
|
Good, durable and small is tricky - personally I would get a track pump for home and a small cheap pump to carry with you. Size Bike fitting (may not be that important) You might also want to see if your local bike shop can let you try out a demo.
|
A test ride for a new bicycle Update... What should I actually do on the test drive? The LBS has been kind enough to allow me to try out a brand new bicycle. What things should I consider when test riding bikes that I am considering for purchase at a LBS? And what should my procedure be while on the test ride? Also plan to test ride between 2 - 5 similarly priced bikes. This will be a hybrid (urban) bike intended for daily commuting. The LBS will do some minimal adjustments prior to the test ride, so how do I determine if it's a good/bad selection vs needing customized adjustments/fitting? <Q> This goes against accepted wisdom, but I think test rides are overrated. <S> Not useless, but overrated. <S> You're going to own the bike for a long time presumably. <S> You're going to be able to play with the tire pressure, the handlebar position, the seat height and fore/aft, the seat itself, the pedals, the cranks. <S> As you develop cycling muscles, your position on the bike might change a little. <S> If the frame size is "close enough", all of these things can be adjusted to lock it in once you get riding it. <S> I could give you the same bike with different tire pressures and you would say, "wow, that one was a comfortable ride" or "wow, that was a fast ride". <S> You get it home, change the tire pressure, and all of a sudden it feels like a different bike. <S> Like sillyyak said. <S> . <S> .some of the important stuff <S> for you is going to be standover height, weight, ability to accessorize. <S> And almost none of that is learned on an actual test ride. <S> I wouldn't rule out a test ride, but just don't use it as the deciding factor. <S> Let use know what you end up getting. <A> You will want to be sitting in a postion that has your weight mostly on your sit bones. <S> You also want to make sure that with your saddle in the correct position, your knee is over the axle of the pedal when the crank is in the front-most part of it's circle. <S> Too far off <S> and it can put a strain on your knee. <S> If the saddle can't be adjusted to allow this to happen, then you need to look at a different size/type of bike. <S> You may also want to check the width of the saddle. <S> You want the support to be under your sit bones, otherwise it can get pretty uncomfortable. <S> Are you comfortable standing over the bike at a stop? <S> Is the bike light enough so that you can manuever it onto bike racks? <S> Does it have eyelets for racks? <A> A factor that is as important as the bike you purchase is the store you purchase it from. <S> Do you feel comfortable talking to the mechanics about problems on your bike or asking for advice with changes to the bike? <S> Do they offer a fitting service that includes measuring your body and putting you up on a trainer (as opposed to eye-balling it)? <S> A good bike shop will probably give you a lot of the same advice you will get here. <S> A poor bike shop will probably just push you towards the bike they think you are most likely to buy. <S> Many bike shops have test-bikes that they will let you borrow (or rent) for a day to try out. <S> Give a short ride on several bikes and then your top picks, ask if they have test bikes you can take home. <S> Ride your commute on each of them to see how it feels. <S> A short 30 minute test ride may not give you the right information as compared to riding your actual route. <S> A good example is the gearing on the bike--it may be ok on a short, 6% grade... <S> but terrible on a long, 2% grade. <A> @Baltimark asked, " Let use know what you end up getting ". <S> I ended up getting: A "Kona Dr. Dew" (with a $200 markdown because it's one of last year's model and now is just before the spring bike show) <S> (unplowed well-trod foot path) <S> but I took a tumble on a frozen puddle of sheer/flat ice; I felt confident about the traction (with or without justification, I don't know) <S> on wet (but not puddled) roadway <S> "Commuter" fenders front and back (metal stays, flexible metal-and-plastic bodies) <S> Rack on the back One Bontrager "interchange grocery bag" pannier (clips on and off the rack <S> ; I heard the bike techs who installed it make an admiring remark about it) <S> Cheap flashing lights, front and back <S> Bell (a legal requirement here <S> ; while I was at it, I got a loudish one) <S> A "New York" U-lock "Pinhead" wheel locks Chain lube for wet conditions, plus aerosol degreaser w/ mechanical chain cleaner Floor pump A hard hat (reading the fine print in it afterwards <S> , it says, "this is not an approved helmet"; but <S> unlike other helmets I tried, it has less/no front-to-back wobble) <S> Shimano SPD shoes (I'll practice with them for the first time, in a few weeks, when the unplowed bike paths are clear of snow) <S> Pedals, made for SPD on one side and for street shoes on the other For the next two years from the LBS, 2 free tune-ups per year, plus unlimited single-thing adjustements e.g. to change a tire, fix a squeak or whatever
|
The most critical aspect of your test-ride is the comfort on the bike. As long as price and model are similar, I think it's a good idea to get a bike at the most convenient shop, or the shop where you like the people the most -- you will be going back there (repairs, clothing, helmet, lights, accessories, etc). The things a test ride reveals are not necessarily the things that matter in the long run, and can even be deceptive. Derailleurs (adjustable travel, and needed to be adjusted by one of the bike techs) Tires which were said to be puncture-resistant and which might (I infer from what the sales-person said) include some built-in slime; the tires say "85 psi" but the sales person said I can/should inflate them to 100 psi; they're 35 mm if I recall correctly; with treads, but not studs; they're OK going slowly on packed snow Hydraulic disc brakes (my first non-rim brakes; they're 'wow' compared to rim brakes)
|
Should I replace all wheel bearings when only some are worn? I just ripped apart my mom's mountain bike's rear hub. One of the bearings was incredibly rough, so I replaced it, and the other one was smooth, but didn't turn very easily. Since I didn't have a replacement for it on hand, I just put it back, but I'm not sure if I should try to replace it. Is there a good rule of thumb on bearings? Does one failed bearing imply that another one is likely to go soon? While we're at it, should I be doing anything to the freewheel other than cleaning it and re-greasing it? I've heard it's important not to put too much grease inside the freewheel, or it'll increase drag when you're coasting, so I was careful of that. The specifics for this bike: Mavic wheels Shimano 9-speed freewheel Full suspension mountain bike that gets fairly heavy use on XC singletrack terrain <Q> According to Lennard Zinn's book 'Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance' , you should replace all of the bearings even if only one is obviously bad. <S> That way you ensure round, smooth, consistent bearings. <S> I've been using his repair manuals for years <S> and he's pretty much never steered me wrong. <A> To be sure, Sealed bearings or caged loose bearings? <S> If they are loose, I usually do the "finger test" on the(cleaned) cone when I remove the bearings. <S> Then again on the cups. <S> Most cups are pressed in hubs, so if those get pitted you may be looking at a new hub/wheel. <S> Sealed bearings I change when they are running rough. <S> That simple. <S> These are wearable parts for a reason. <S> Changing them when they aren't acting right keeps you from breaking more expensive parts. <A> You should replace all the bearings when you do a hub overhaul, regardless if the bearings look smooth or not. <S> Also making sure that the bearings are adjusted correctly - not to loose and not too tight is very important.... <S> in my opinion...
|
If there is pitting on either, change it and the bearings out.
|
What to do about hypothermia on a long ride? Recently, I had a long ride in winter, about 100km (62 miles) and was about 5-8 degree c (41-46F). I was wearing a windstopper jacket and basic cycling pants. At later stage of the ride I felt legs aren't producing enough pedaling force and muscles feel quite painful and sore. And eventually I am home. Even though it was pretty warm, I still felt myself not producing any heat. I even tried putting myself into a hot shower and I was still shaking... And then I started to eat a lot. And It still didn't stop me from shaking... And I then went to bed with electrical warming blankets and started to recover. My question is, what are the symptoms and what should you do to avoid hypothermia in a winter ride. What if you are already suffering from hypothermia? <Q> Hypothermia can sneak up on a person. <S> Unless you're paying attention, you usually won't notice until you're extremely cold. <S> Hypothermia can slow your reaction times and cause severe lapses in judgement, so be very careful out there! <S> It's best to avoid it altogether, but if it happens, don't trust yourself to make good decisions. <S> As far as what to wear: <S> I'm kind of a gearhead, <S> so I like to wear fancy softshell clothing. <S> It's great stuff because it breathes well and lets out moisture but still blocks wind and (mostly) blocks rain. <S> If you're into that sort of thing, Pearl Izumi and Castelli both make some great gear. <S> If you're on a bit of a budget, I'd lean toward the tried and true wool. <S> Avoid cotton like the plague -- when it gets wet, cotton will make you extremely cold . <S> We lose a lot of heat through our heads, so in the cold months it's important to have a hat on under your helmet. <S> I have a thin wool hat that keeps my head warm and fits nicely under my helmet. <S> Wearing a wool sweater and a windproof jacket over the top will often be enough. <S> Gloves can also be very important -- when I'm riding long distances in the winter months, I find gloves help me keep my fingers nimble. <S> Making sure your fingers are warm enough to work well can be a serious safety concern when it comes to braking. <S> Most of all, be aware of how you feel. <S> If you feel cold and then later your hands are stiff but you don't feel cold any more, that's a warning sign. <S> As far as warming up goes, you did quite well. <S> I would add a warm beverage to the mix -- hot tea, hot chocolate, or whatever you prefer -- as it helps warm you from within. <A> I always seem to have one ride each winter where I get the clothing choice wrong and end up with hypothermia. <S> Along with the reduced power output, I have this sleepy/calm feeling <S> and I feel like I want to hop off the bike, find a pile of dry leaves, curl up and take a nap. <S> Sometimes, I have trouble with balance (can't ride in a straight line). <S> Judgment will be affected, but I think it depends on the person as to how bad it deteriorates. <S> I can usually focus enough to myself home. <S> To get home, I'll: go into a low gear and spin to try togenerate heat. <S> brake on downhillsections to cut down on the wind andgo as hard as I can on uphillsections. <S> If it's windy, pickroutes home that have a lot ofbuildings or forests. <S> getting in thedrops (if you are road/cross) maytake the edge off and maybe help youconserve a little bit of heat. <S> But if you are swerving about and you have a mobile/someone to call: do it. <S> You don't want to swerve into a motorist who is passing you. <A> To prepare for hypothermia, you must first anticipate it. <S> When I learned to sail they said that the weather conditions that are most likely to produce hypothermia are 45 deg F (7 deg C), light rain, and wind. <S> If it's colder, people tend to recognize the risk and dress warmly or stay indoors; same with heavy rain. <S> If it's warmer, dry, or calm, it's easier to stay warm. <S> So, dress for the weather, but remember that if it's cool, wet, and breezy, you probably want to wear a little extra. <A> I've seen people get hypothermic and they've never realized that there was a problem. <S> One of the effects of hypothermia is reduced brain function: your reactions slow down, thoughts aren't clear, may start to lose motor control. <S> If you get to this point you will not realize what's happening or be able to fix it. <S> The best thing to do is tackle the problem when you're still at the "feeling cold" stage. <S> Put on more layers, change out of wet layers, find somewhere warm to rest up, etc. <S> And drink plenty of fluids. <S> Besides bad weather, the biggest risk factor for hypothermia is dehydration! <A> Sounds like you have a bit of terminal burrowing <S> Here's another example from today's news: http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/938882--lost-teens-survive-quebec-tundra-for-four-days?bn=1 : "He had dug a hole in the snow forshelter from the wind and strippeddown to his T-shirt." <S> Anyway, when I was once taught about hypothermia, I was also told that ' irrational ' (e.g. angry) could be a symptom of hypothermia, to look out for: being stupid. <S> When I biked in winter (in Canada), part of my problem was how to stay cool enough, given that I'm wearing a winter coat (I have to unzip it); but my distance was much less than 100 km (i.e. it was 20 km or about an hour, twice a day). <S> I'd use my coat to keep my core warm enough, and a couple of layers under my coat to keep my skin warm when I unzip the coat. <S> After an hour it would be my fingers and toes (and my skin generally) that was cold (so more likely to get superficial chilblains than internal hypothermia). <S> One more thing is that I have a panier attached to the bike, which contains among other thing some extra clothes. <S> I wear reduced clothing (and wear it unzipped or semi-unzipped) when I'm cycling (because I'm producing extra heat), so it's good to carry extra clothes for if ever you stop producing so much heat. <S> A 100 km ride is several hours, I don't think I can count on being able to produce constant power output over so long.
|
Be sure to wear a warm layer and a wind blocking layer.
|
Attaching a stem to a carbon steerer: how much torque? So I decided to travel with my bike this week and to my surprise discovered that the steerer is carbon fiber. I had removed the stem from the steerer for packing but naively assumed it was aluminum like my previous bike (both have carbon forks). I would like to reassemble this so that: it doesn't come apart causing a horrible crash I don't crack/damage the steerer I do have a torque wrench with me but not my copy of Zinn, so how tight should I clamp the two stem bolts? (they are labelled 10Nm but I think that's the rating for the stem, which is probably aluminum) <Q> Assuming the stem was chosen by the manufacturer, it's required torque as printed on the stem should be within the ability of the fork steerer to support. <S> If the stem says,"Max <S> If only the number is printed, it must be exactly that number. <S> It is a good idea to check the torque compatibility of parts purchased for your bike. <S> If you buy a stem that requires 12Nm, but your handlebar won't support more than 10Nm, you are destined for trouble. <S> Usually, 6-8Nm is enough for that purpose. <S> You can lower the required torque by adding a carbon friction compound, sometimes called carbon grease. <S> It increases the friction between the steerer and the stem clamp and will therefore require less clamping force to stay solid. <S> I assume you've dealt with this issue long since, but in this case 10Nm would be correct. <A> You were right first time - the labelling on stem is the max torque that the bolts and stem are rated to withstand. <S> Carbon steerer tubes are typically rated significantly less, and easily crack through crushing by 8Nm. <S> I tighten mine to 4.2Nm, Specialized rates a max 5Nm for their forks. <S> Carbon parts, wrenching at home - make sure you know the torque ratings everywhere. <A> Unfortunately, you will probably have to contact the fork manufacturer. <S> I am sure that each brand has their own ratings.
|
Additionally, the use of a thin layer of carbon grease / carbon friction compound between the stem and the steerer tube can help you ensure that at even low Nm you get a solid grip. Torque 10Nm" as opposed to just "10Nm" then start with a lower setting around 6Nm and work up slowly until the stem clamp will not slip on the steerer.
|
How can I build my own open-source cyclometer? I am interested to build a bike but I would also like to have free software/hardware. How can I build a cyclometer with open-source software? Would it be possible to find reflashable hardware or open schematics? <Q> Those pages contain detailed instructions for building a bike computer using a PIC microcontroller linked to a Hall Effect Sensor (it detects the magnet attached to a spoke as the wheel spins). <S> In addition to the build details it also features a detailed discussion of the design process which the creator undertook whilst creating the computer. <A> Easiest platform is probably arduino - nearest bike thing I can find is this <A> I tried to get real time ANT sensor data from a Garmin watch to a PC. <S> But this is difficult. <S> BLE is easier. <S> The following bike computer is very basic, but can be modified by the user: <S> Pyloton: CircuitPython Cycling Computer. <S> Open Source cycling computer that displays heart rate, speed, cadence, and song playback info. <S> https://learn.adafruit.com/pyloton
|
The most detailed account/details I've come across for building your own bike computer is here on PIClist .
|
Are there Open-source bikes? By 'open-source', I mean where people see the internals of each other's designs, and build on each other's works, as they do in science (or in 'open-source' software development). I am a bit tired of 'black box, it's just magic' methods where I'm expected to simply believe in something, without being able to see exactly what that thing is and how it works. I think it is very cool to reuse ideas and plans: so are there 'open-source' bike designs? <Q> Expired patents may also count as open source because inventions must be fully disclosed. <S> See for example a linked braking system from 1978, <S> Calderazzo's US Patent #4102439 , which makes it very difficult to flip yourself over the bars. <S> (I read about this in Bicycling Science by David Gordon Wilson, Jim Papadopoulos, & Frank Rowland Whitt.) <A> In a way bike frames are inherently open source. <S> Since you get a copy of the entire object you can do what you wish with it. <S> Since almost all the ideas are old and unpatentable, even modern intellectual property laws don't apply to much of it. <S> The precision is relatively low, and the rider insensitive to small variations, so it's possbile to reproduce most of the design from measuring the final product. <S> This is less true with composite parts, and suspension design is sufficiently specialised that simply copying the geometry is unlikely to work. <S> Materials do change shape slightly during manufacture, but allowing for that is fairly straightforward for the most part (but for example thermoplastics with a 10% size change on cooling are much harder). <S> Most of the real design effort goes into making the frame work well with everything you bolt onto it. <S> Getting a description of the design thought process would be more useful, but that's a book-length project at the very least. <S> Tiny things like where exactly you put rack mounting points or at what exact angle the cable stops go can take hours of thought and experimentation. <S> It's not micrometre accuracy, but a millimetre either way can often be crucial. <S> Then we swing way out of the mainstream and start designing frames for cargo bikes, recumbents or tall bikes. <S> Here the design effort is often more about getting something that works rather than something that's extremely polished, simply because the market is not very mature (meaning it's not a contest for a fixed-size market, it's possible to build your own entirely new market). <S> One you move away from "diamond frame bicycle" the design gets a lot more complex. <S> Simple things like rideability are not widely well understood and some universities offer physics courses in dynamic stability focussed on bicycles. <S> Sample explanation here . <S> Wikipedia has an outline <S> You can buy detailed plans for a couple of different recumbent trikes, and Ricky Horowitz's Thunderbolt plans are free and public, but still copyrighted. <S> An open source design for a particular type of bike frame would be mostly useful as a collaborative design exercise. <S> I suspect few people would build exactly what was described, so documenting the design process might be a more useful focus than simply describing the results. <A> You could start making your own design at Thingiverse and see whether people will build on it. <S> Maybe look at some existing designs on Instructables or Atomic Zombie and work from there.
|
openbike.org (itself open) has inspired independent projects such as Jetrike (whose author makes plans available).
|
Most suitable and tasty ride food? I ride relatively long distances on a road bike on Sundays, usually around 90-100 miles and have experimented much as to what to eat. Here's what I've found so far. Soreen - tastes good, full of carbs, although must be buttered other the slices become a little stodgy after the fifth slice. Bananas - Certain provide energy but don't "fill you up" Power bars, expensive especially if you eat 5-6 on ride, but do what they say and give you a good energy boost Gels, immediate energy boost for when your really flagging. However, taken as the sole food but prepared to much through quite a few! Special K bars, 80 kcals per bar! I was felt hungry even after eating 8 of them. Snickers (Marathon) bars, great energy boost but felt like my teeth were going to fall out by the fifth. Also this makes gum essential, plus with so much sugar you can kinda feel it come out in your skin when you sweat. Basically I'm looking for superfood which make a perfect riding companion. To make a good riding food it must be; Consumable - Easy to open when riding, i.e. the packet can be broken into whilst riding, either through ease of packet, or use of teeth Digestible - goes down well tastes good, and won't repeat when I start climbing through the hills. Calories - Must contain enough calories so I can continue to ride without feeling hungry. Durable - Are they going to melt in the heat? Or become too brittle to eat in the freezing cold. I'd be very happy for some more suggestions :-) <Q> A few years ago I ran across a recipe that Team Garmin uses (or did at the time). <S> It's boiled potatoes with a bit of olive oil and salt. <S> If you wrap it up right <S> it's easy to carry, unwrap and eat while riding. <S> I'm not sure how many of these you could carry. <S> I've tried it on medium rides (40 to 50 miles) and they were great. <S> I can't find the text of the original recipe but here is a video that shows how to cook and wrap them. <S> They are very cheap, they do require that you have some water to get them down, but the olive oil helps a lot. <S> The potassium in the potato is great and they digest easily. <S> I'm not sure I'd eat 5 or 6, but perhaps as one or two of the 5 or six snacks you go through. <A> Granola/Power bars are cheap if you get the supermarket/Nature Valley ones, usually $10 for 32 double packs. <S> Or you can make your own - lot of recipes on the net. <S> Basically melt butter / sugar / honey and add anything oat / fruit / nut like, spread on a tray and put in fridge. <A> Another idea: Dried apples. <S> Not the ones you buy at a store, but ones you make yourself. <S> Slice apples VERY thin (an apple slicing machine is good for this), spread them out and dry them in a dehydrator or warm oven until totally, crispy dry. <S> Then place in zip-lock bags. <S> They melt in your mouth, taste like candy, and are loaded with sugar (and a bit of fiber). <S> The only problem is that it takes about a dozen apples to make one "single-serving" size bag of them. <A> Nuts: walnuts? <S> I'm thinking pre-shelled walnut halves <S> (walnust halves may/should be fresher than chopped walnuts). <S> There are about 30 calories per whole walnut, or 185 per ounce <S> (contrast with 96 calories per ounce of sugar): because it's from fat. <A> An old stand-by is fig bars. <S> I typically get them in bulk bins at a local food co-op. <S> Figs are rich in potassium and other minerals, as well as being a decent carb source. <A> I've become addicted to Tanka Bars as savory alternative to the usual round of sweet energy bars, etc. <S> They're pemmican (Bison meat pounded with cranberries, salt and spices) made by the Lakota Sioux, and since my wife and <S> I started getting them, our boxes of Builder Bars have been gathering dust. <S> You can get them in mild and "Spicy Pepper Blend". <S> They won't give you a jolt of quick energy, but man, the protein really sticks with you and keeps you going! <S> The one gotcha is they're only 70 calories apiece. <A> I find Clif Bars to be a pretty good solution. <S> They're easy to open, they go down relatively easily <S> , they don't melt or freeze (ever try eating a powerbar on a cold day?) <S> and they have about 200+ calories. <S> On rides shorter than 3 hours, I just take a couple of packets of Gu, one bottle of water, and one bottle of lightly-mixed gatorade (I mix from powder since the full-strength stuff leaves the mouth quite sticky on a ride). <A> bars are my favourite bike food, especially the ginger ones. <S> 167 calories per bar. <S> Equal amounts starchy and sugary carbohydrate, <S> low fat, B vitamins. <S> I'm no nutritionist, but I understand they're not that bad for you. <S> Moist, crumbling texture. <S> Easier to eat than other cereal bars. <S> Packaging is a bit of a pain, but can be ripped whilst riding with some dedicated front teeth. <S> Otherwise, make a small tear before you set off to make it easier later. <S> I've eaten them on warm and cold days, whilst pootling along and immediately after big hills. <S> They always taste good. <S> No, I don't work for Kelloggs. <A> No one mentioned liquid nutrition. <S> I really like Perpetuem by Hammer, but there are many other options for liquid calories. <S> I look for something that tastes good and has something more than just electrolytes, something with carbohydrates and a little protein. <S> With Perpetuem, I can mix a thicker bottle for longer rides. <S> Some other liquid nutrition choices: <S> Accelerade <S> Carbo-Pro Clif SHOT Cytomax Endurox <A> Nabisco Newton Fruit Crisps (not the crummy "Fruit Thins" which look more like cookies, or the Special-K Fruit Crisps which aren't half as good) are very good snacks, though unfortunately our local distributor stopped carrying them <S> so I have to mail-order. <A> Peanut M&Ms. <S> Mixture of carbs and fat, a bit of protein and caffeine, cheap and readily available, easy to eat out of the bag, and delicious.
|
Target's fruit/yogurt bars are also very good, and almost pure sugar. Kelloggs Nutri-grain Elevenses On longer outings, I'll take the Gu and a Clif Bar per 2 hours, and lots more water.
|
Cheap prototypes for bicycles? Got the idea to this question from this one , guiding in framebuilding. I cannot jump directly to welding before I have a cheap working prototype, due to tight budget. In architecture of houses, they use balsa or bass woods to build scale models. Bicycles are in a way more complicated to houses that you have gears, cogs, anti-vibration-structure and equipment -positions to design. When you suggest prototyping, please, tell me how you use it? For example, how can you kill vibration in the very beginning? <Q> What actual problem are you trying to solve, or what experiment are you trying to perform, what question are you trying to answer, by making a prototype? <S> E.g. architectural models may try to solve problems like, "What will it look like?" <S> and "Is there enough space for the plumbing?" <S> However models, which have a different size and are made of different materials than the finished product, don't necessarily model/simulate the physical performance/behviour of the finished product (e.g. vibrations). <S> For example, how do they plan weight distribution in their models? <S> How do they beforehand see vibrational problems? <S> To experiment with physical properties like vibration, I'll guess they use full-scale prototypes, made of actual metal : identical to the finished mass-manufactured article, except hand-made one-offs instead of mass-produced. <S> You might be able to get by with a scale model (e.g. quarter-size), so long as it's made from a sufficiently similar material (e.g. welded steel). <S> Using anything else (e.g. LEGO blocks or balsa wood) would not, I guess, be a useful prototype, because its mechanical properties are too dissimilar. <S> Another possibility might be a computer model. <S> On the other hand (as an example of a different problem being able to use a different kind of prototype) if you were trying to model the wind resistance instead of the vibration: because a thing's interaction with the air depends on its external/superficial shape, more than on mechanical properties like stiffness, for that you could use a different material. <S> In his autobiography, Freeman Dyson asserted that the reason why motorcycles are reliable is because there have been so many different generations of them since they were invented, with each new one building on and correcting the problems with the previous versions (he contrasted that with nuclear power stations, saying that there haven't been 100s of generations of those). <A> This page says, Reynolds is also rolling out to its customers who are typically custom framebuilders without access to sophisticated computer modelling tools <S> a programme called eReynolds FEA (Finite Element Analysis) which will enable them to 'build' their frames in virtual form to test the feasibility of tubing and joining options before expensively committing to physical prototypes. <S> Developed in conjunction with Birmingham University, Murphy says "it's a way of helping builders <S> offer competitive frames especially now that cyclists are developing a whole new appreciation of the upsides of Reynolds metals." <A> Echoing ChrisW: <S> What actual problem are you trying to solve, or what experiment are you trying to perform, what question are you trying to answer, by making a prototype? <S> Your list of goals suggests that you're more interested in attaching computers to the bike than riding it, so it might be better to start with a picture of a bicycle, put the computers in place, then add whatever hardware you need to activate the sensors. <S> That way you can get the computer hardware and software sorted out before you start building the bike. <S> When it comes to bicycle prototypes, models are rarely used except for areodynamic modelling simply because the cost of a complete bicycle is so low. <S> The cost of a prototype is mostly labour, and that cost isn't affected by the scale <S> (within reason, a 1:1000 or 10:1 model of a bicycle is going to cost a lot more). <S> If you don't want to buy welding or brazing gear I suggest using straps wrapped around the frame tubes, probably metal hose clamps and flattened tube ends bolted together. <S> This will leave you a lot of slop compared to a welded joint but they are cheap to do. <S> If you want to build a bike that can be ridden any distance you will have to buy something to make proper joints with. <S> Composites are more expensive overall but you can pay as you go - only buy enough epoxy for the current project. <S> Using twine rather than synthetic fibre will be cheaper but somewhat less robust. <S> Oxy-acetelene gives you the option of welding or brazing (or soldering), but makes working with aluminium difficult and realistically limits you to steel. <S> Electric welding is more flexible but the equipment is more expensive. <S> Stick welding is possible but very difficult on the thin wall tubes that bicycles typically use. <S> GTAW/ <S> TIG welding is most flixble but also requires the most skill. <S> MMAW/MIG welding uses cheaper equipment (at the low end) and you only need one hand to weld, but switching between materials/changing electrodes is tedious. <A> It would be helpful if you outlined what your goals are. <S> Are you trying to create a new style of bike from scratch? <S> Are you tweaking an existing frame/design for comfort? <S> What are expecting to get out our your model? <S> The tools depend on what you are trying for. <A> You could try making a bamboo bike. <S> The materials required: Bamboo of 2 different sizes. <S> Hemp twine. <S> Epoxy resin. <S> Donor bike for parts. <S> You'll need a hacksaw and or a dremel or angle grinder to cut the metal parts you need off of the donor. <S> I suggest you do some web searches for more information. <A> For Physical prototypes hot glue -gun to attach the elements physical blocks for example by Legos, also other Neodymium magnet toys for example by Magnetix, rare-earth-magnets and industrial magnets breadboards for electric prototyping wooden sticks and wooden elements <S> plastic, Super -glue, plastic bender, -- <A> Related questions about FEM, idea from ChrisW's answer FEM: <S> How to Design weight-distribution in bike prototypes? <S> https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2989/fem-how-to-design-anti-vibrational-bike-frame
|
Cheap MIG gear will not do nice-looking welds, but operating the expensive gear is a highly skilled task. Most of your prototpre requirements can be addressed by bolting cheap bike parts together. There are also physical modeling tools like Legos or erector sets, and virtual computer tools like AutoCAD or Rhino.
|
What to put on or inside winter-SPD-boots to keep toes warm? Where I live we have very cold winds blowing in from Russia's Siberia. It is freezing despite the fact that I have all kinds of extra winter clothing like commando balaclava , SPD winter shoes , ESS goggles -- but my toes are still freezing. So what would you suggest I wear to keep my toes warm? <Q> MEC advise, on their web site, that the cheapest way to keep your shoes dry is a plastic bag. <S> They also sell shoe covers : some for rain and some (with neoprene and microfleece) for winter. <A> I have a pair if these that I wear over a pair of wool socks. <S> They are great at keeping wind at bay which seems to be the biggest contributor to my toes being cold. <S> GORE SOCKS <S> One other possiblity is that cold is coming up through your cleat, so maybe a footbed liner can help. <A> I cut both corners off a plastic shopping bag and put it over my toes inside the shoe. <S> It's free, and barely noticeable. <S> I wear my regular summer shoes and socks during the winter, and even on cold days when I'm walking and biking through slush and heavy snow it keeps my feet nice and warm. <A> You could try foot-warmers , they use a chemical reaction to create heat. <S> You can usually find them in shops that sell hillwalking or skiing equipment. <A> Any shoes bought for winter (below freezing) cycling should be several sizes larger than a rider's normal shoe size. <S> Stuffing more layers inside a shoe/boot that is a close fit actually makes keeping your feet warm harder since it will tend to restrict circulation. <S> This is a very common mistake. <S> I normally wear a size 44, but my winter sets of shoes/boots are 45 and 50. <S> The extra room translates to extra space for insulation (socks). <S> If possible, you should buy winter shoes/boots in a wide size as well, so you are not just getting more room in the toe box, but throughout the shoe. <S> I recommend a vapor barrier sock or other method (plastic bag) to keep your insulation dry and effective. <S> If you have all that going on and still need more warmth, some sort or overshoe is a next step. <S> I have found that the over booties designed for cross country skis usually work fairly well with cycling shoes and and generally relatively cheap. <A> Get thick Neoprene cycling shoe covers. <S> I got these last winter after two years of cold feet (pun not intended) and they are wonderfull!
|
If your shoes are pretty windproof but are still getting cold toes, make sure that your feet aren't too constricted.
|
Is it safe to remove "lawyer tabs" on a carbon fork? Is it safe to file off the "lawyer lips" - the little tabs on the end of the fork dropouts - on my carbon road fork? What about cyclocross forks? I've heard it's "common sense" to remove them... <Q> Depends on the fork and the brake type used. <S> With disc brakes, don't do it. <S> A disc can generate enough force to pull a wheel. <S> That's why most, if not all new MTB forks come with a burly, deep recess for the QR and the dropouts face forward. <S> With the caliper on the back of the leg, it wants to drive the hub downward when the brakes are on. <S> If the dropout is closer to horizontal, then it pushes the hub axle into the fork instead of out of the dropout. <S> It's another reason why fork manufacturers are switching to thru axle forks. <S> Stiffer, yes, but also less chance of a lawsuit. <S> On road and cross forks, you are probably okay, especially if the "lawyer lips" are tiny. <S> A couple of little bumps missing aren't going to do much. <S> If the fork has a recessed area for the QR molded into the dropout, then the effort needed to remove them is going to suck and you might affect the integrity of the dropout. <S> Something to think about. <S> Pro teams file them off and there are no reports of riders crashing because the wheel came out. <S> Of course, all of the equipment is top shelf stuff, maintained by some of the world's best mechanics, and gets replaced instantly if there is a hint of an issue. <S> Also, no Pro is on any fork older than a year, if that. <S> Most likely, the bike they race on is less than 6 months old. <A> With rim brakes they give a slight safety benefit, making it less likely that a slightly loose QR will let the wheel fall out. <S> But the main cause of the front wheel falling out is people putting the wheel in and forgetting to do up the quick release. <S> Lawyer lips don't do anything to stop that happening (since to get the wheel in you have to loosen enough...). <S> With disk brakes it's a completely different story. <S> For historical reasons the caliper is on the wrong side of the fork, meaning the braking force pushes the axle out of the dropouts. <S> It's unlikely you can do up a quick release firmly enough to stop the wheel pulling out of the dropouts in an emergency stop, so you must leave the lips in place. <S> I have had a bike without lawyer lips but with disk brakes. <S> The one time I did an emergency stop the front wheel bounced across the road <S> and I hit it. <S> Not fun at all, but fortunately(?) <S> easily reproducible. <S> Repeatedly, until the quick release skewer broke from over-tightening. <A> Yes. <S> Just don't expect to sue your LBS or the manufacturer <S> should you crash due to QR failure or your wheel coming out of the fork. <S> They are "Lawyer" tabs. <S> Meant mostly to convince a court that the manufacturer did everything reasonable to produce a safe product. <A> No it is not safe as it removes a fail safe from the bike. <S> The UCI has banned the practice in 2013 under the bike modification rule. <S> It is understood this was done to bring UCI rules in line with French Law to remove an unfair disadvantage faced by French teams. <S> The UCI will be putting "UCI approved" stickers on more than just frames this year and will include forks. <S> Only relevant if the peloton was racing away!
|
The lawyer lips worked as a fail safe but their removal only saved seconds from a wheel change. Of course, you will void the warranty.
|
What does the term pannier really mean? Does how the bag is hung matter? This question drew my attention to pannier here . I just thought that panniers are things that hung on bike. The Wikipedia definition with Google gives: A pannier is a basket, bag, box, or similar container, carried in pairs either slung over the back of a beast of burden, or attached to a bicycle or motorcycle. So can I call every bag that hangs even a little on a bicycle a pannier like a handle-bar bag? Or is it essential that it is in pairs? I have panniers-looking side bags but they are not really in pairs rather separated similar bags, I bought them separately. So what are really panniers? Do they need to be attached to one-another or can they be separated? What about if I lost one, is it still a pannier or is it a piece of pannier? When I have a small bag like triangular bag or something else hung from the bike, is it a pannier? Probably not, is the proper idea to think about panniers like a bags on a donkey i.e. rather large bags? <Q> In English, panniers originally referred to bags slung across the back of an animal (such as a horse), such that the weight hung down on either side of the animal. <S> This keeps the weight lower so that the animal won't be as off-balance, and distributes the weight evenly. <S> On a bicycle, the term is used for containers that resemble that, even if it's only on one side. <S> Specifically, bags that hang on the side of a rack . <S> It's also used for containers that aren't bags, such as buckets, baskets, or hard cases; though most often for bags. <S> The term is used equally for bags on the side of a rear rack or front rack. <S> A pannier could attach itself to the side of a rack (typically via hooks), or you could have a single unit where two side-bags are attached to each other and held on by the attachment between them sitting on top of the rack. <S> The attachment could be as little as a strip of cloth, or as much as a whole third bag that fits on top of the rack. <S> If a bag is designed to fit on top of a rack without hanging down the sides, it's not a pannier. <S> Typically those would be called a "rack bag". <S> A bag that hangs from the saddle (seat) is a "saddlebag". <S> However, on a motorcycle, saddlebag and pannier both refer to containers hanging on the sides (the saddle on a motorcycle generally extends to the back). <S> On motorcycles, "saddlebags" are commonly hard cases that wouldn't otherwise be called "bags". <S> The huge difference between a motorcycle's "saddlebags" and a bicycle's "saddlebag" sometimes causes people to incorrectly refer to bicycle panniers as "saddlebags" even though they aren't attached to or even near the saddle (seat). <A> Generally I think people use "pannier" to refer to just one bag on a rack of the bike. <S> It can be on either the rear or front rack. <S> If there is a set of two or more bags, panniers is used to refer to the whole set, but again, one bag on its own is just a pannier , regardless of whether it's a part of a set. <S> There are other types of bags ( not hung on racks) that I have never heard anyone refer to as panniers. <S> These include: frame bag handlebar bag saddle bag or seat post bag (or "wedge") <A> I think that in English a 'pannier' usually refers to something hung next to the wheels , whereas a 'basket' is hung on the front . <S> But in another language i.e. French <S> a ' panier ' is rather a basket, or perhaps a rack.
|
Even if it's one unit, something that hangs on both sides would be pluralized as "panniers" while a single bag on one side is singular ("pannier").
|
Properties with Belt-driven Chains? This reply about belt-driven belt got my interest here . It does not need lubrication at all according to the replier. What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Where does the idea come from? Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? Do they stretch like steel chains? When should you change them? <Q> The main difference with belt drive is that you can't break the belt, so you need a specially built frame that allows the belt to be fitted. <S> On a chain-driven bike the chain usually runs though the frame between the seatstay and chainstay. <S> Similarly, you're limited to the belt lengths available from the manufacturer. <S> I have seen bikes with exposed belt drives but that does not seem like a good idea to me. <S> I don't know much about how they wear as I've never seen one that's had much use (which in itself should tell you something). <S> Once the belt is fully enclosed it becomes just like an enclosed chain drive, except that it can't be serviced by bike shops. <S> I suspect this is the real deal-breaker for most people. <S> Belts usually have higher losses than chain drives, making them unattractive for high-performance bikes and hindering their adoption in other bikes (because much of the profit for bike shops is in the more expensive bikes). <A> I've never ridden a belt-drive bicycle, but I've ridden both belt and chain drive motorcycles and the belt drive is considerably smoother and quieter. <S> One of the features being used to tout belt-driven bikes is that they don't require lubing, so that would be a plus. <S> In addition to not needing to take the time to properly lube your drive-train, the lack of lube would mean less attractant for dirt/dust etc. <S> Each manufacturer would probably have their own recommendations about operating temperature range and how often to change them. <A> Belt drives can't be used with derailleurs so the bike will be single speed or need an (expensive) hub gear. <S> There were some cars that used a belt drive, usually with a v-belt and split pulleys to give a continuously variable gear - haven't heard of any bike doing this. <A> What are other properties with belt-drive chain? <S> Main differences compared to using a chain: <S> it has more friction/power loss than a chain ( <S> but less than a badly-oiled chain) <S> it stretches more than a chain under heavy load (so less suitable for high-performance cycling) <S> it needs a frame that can be split, because the belt cannot be split it cannot be combined with a derailleur <S> Where is the idea got? <S> It was used in the first steam engines (and probable even earlier). <S> Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? <S> Yes, they are quite common. <S> In particular, the alternator in a car is usually driven by a belt. <S> Are they durable? <S> Do they last in all kind of weather? <S> Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? <S> I don't know specific numbers, but they should last at least as long as a chain, and modern belts should have no trouble with high/low temperatures (they are used in cars as well, after all). <S> Do they stretch like steel chains? <S> Belts on the other hand do strech under load (see above). <S> When should you change them? <S> No idea, <S> but they should last considerable longer than a chain (less wear). <A> (I know that this is an old question, but nobody has answered it with real-world experience.) <S> I have a 'Scott Venture 10' as a suburban utility bike since two years. <S> I don't ride it as much as my road bike, but it has seen its share of use. <S> It has a carbon-fibre reinforced drive belt, and Shimano Alfine hub gears. <S> There a couple of advantages that I can think of: It doesn't require any maintenance. <S> (Or at least much less than a conventional chain. <S> Especially when riding in rain.) <S> I don't have to tuck my trousers into my socks to keep them clean/whole. <S> When walking past the bike in the shed I don't risk ruining my trousers by rubbing against a dirty chain. <S> According to the manufacturers the estimated life of a belt is significantly longer than that of a chain. <S> The main disadvantage is (as mentioned above) that it requires a split frame, which one would naively think would reduce rigidity. <S> The manufacturers claim that this is not the case, however... <S> It's also quite a bit more expensive (and specialized) to replace. <S> An ideal chain is more efficient than a belt, but in most real-world scenarios there is no real difference.
|
This makes retrofitting a belt drive impossible on most bikes. Once you get mud or dust in there it's going to grind away the belt and pulleys, and parts are usually expensive (because they're uncommon). belt does not need lubrication (less maintenance) as it is not lubricated, it attracts less dirt, and is cleaner, even if it is exposed (less danger to mess up clothing) The idea is very old. Actually, steel chains don't strecht (noticeably), the just get longer from wear.
|
Carrying water during touring? The earlier question, here , raised this question about carrying water. How do you carry water during touring? Do yo carry it in panniers, water-bags, bottles, containers or elsewhere? How does your carrier change in different location. You can see from earlier question that it is not trivial to get even clean water. So it sounds logical to carry a lot of water when you are in locations where water can be tight. In such case, when you get the water perhaps bottled water. How do you allocate it? Have you never thrown something away because you needed more room for water? <Q> I have used old wine cask bags (or bladders, readily available in Australia, not too sure about rest of the world) packed either into a pannier or strapped onto the top of the rear rack (not the best position <S> but I was fully loaded). <S> Some would say the slight after taste of wine is a bonus. <S> I have also seen unused bladders available from some camping stores. <S> I also have carried water purification tablets just to be safe. <A> My solution is to carry water in four standard cycling water bottles. <S> In addition to the two bottle cages on my touring bike's frame, I also purchased two plastic water bottle cages that fit on my front panniers: <S> , they're just a little harder to get to; you also will want to be extra-careful that they don't leak. <S> I also suggest carrying them low down in the bags (along with anything else you have that is heavy). <S> To carry even more water, you can purchase camping water bags; they're essentially flexible plastic bags that hold water, available in any camping supply store. <S> However, as water is heavy and it sloshes around, it can be difficult to haul more than a couple of gallons. <S> (I get by on a gallon and a half (about 6 liters) for a day of touring.) <A> I rode 2200km this summer using <S> a Revelate Designs Tangle Bag with a Camelbak water bladder (mine was 3L, but the Tangle Bag could hold at least another liter if you could find a larger bladder). <S> Worked great. <S> No switching bottles, just one thing to fill up, less distance to reach to get water, and water stays cooler longer. <S> If you were riding across a desert or something you could carry water bottles in cages below it. <S> With the other Revelate bag in front (the "Gas Tank"), there is a spot between the front bag and the stem to stick the end of the Camelbak hose; the stem has a notch, between the steerer-clamp bolts, that helps hold it in place. <S> The one minor downer to the Revelate bags is that, while they are mostly water-resistant, they aren't water- <S> proof like an Ortlieb pannier would be . <S> The Tangle Bag in particular got significant water into it <S> when riding in the rain for a while, I think because of the longer zipper and its orientation. <S> Otherwise, amazing product. <S> Fork-mounted bottle cages might be an option, but I haven't used them myself. <A> As Anthony says, collapsible bottles / bladders have got to be the way to go. <S> They allow you to adapt the amount of water you carry on a daily basis, without taking up much room when you're not using them. <S> I carried a couple of 2 liter collapsible bottles while touring in Australia. <S> Didn't use them all the time, since I had bike bottles too, but they came in handy when I needed to go for a couple of days without access to water. <S> Purification tablets are also a must !
|
You can carry bottles of water in your panniers as well Water is actually extremely dense, and heavier than people think; it can be difficult to carry.
|
How can I tell which size chain my bike uses? After learning how to break a chain and reattach it, and also how to add and remove a master link, I find that I can now do much more in the way of maintenance at home. I'll no longer need to bring my bikes into the shop simply for a new chain... if I can only figure out how to identify what size chain I'll need to order. Is there a simple way of telling what size and type of chain I'll need to order to replace the chain on a bike? Do I measure the chain links? Count links? Count gears on the cogs? If it helps, some of my bikes' drivetrains have internal hubs, some have derailer gears. <Q> If you are using a bike with a derailleur the number of cogs on the rear hub will determine the chain size you will need. <S> They are always 3/32" chains. <S> You can get a 5/6/7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, or 10-speed chains. <S> If you can't find a chain that matches your cluster pick a chain for a larger number, for example if you have an eight-cog cluster you can use a eight, nine or ten-speed chain, but you shouldn't use a 6 or 7-speed chain. <S> Internally geared hubs will have their own specification for the size chain they require, and single-speed, fixie, BMX bikes, and probably some older bikes use 1/8" chains. <A> The correct length of a chain is irrelevant at purchase since they all come at a set length. <S> (Usually 114 1/2" links, sometimes 120 1/2" links). <S> In special cases, like tandems and recumbents, you may need to join 2 chains to have enough length. <S> Sizing a chain to length for a particular bike is a set process. <S> It does vary a bit. <S> In the case of an IGH bike, which for this purpose is essentially a single speed, set the rear wheel in the dropouts of your frame, leaving the axle nuts or quick release loose, with the wheel all the way forward in the dropout. <S> (Bikes with concentric bottom brackets should be in the most relaxed position available.) <S> Wrap the uncut chain around both the chainring and the rear cog. <S> Find the place where the chain meets with no slack. <S> Mark that link, being careful to make sure you pay attention to the outer plates, and have a set of inner plates to pin through them. <S> Add 2 links to this marked length, to give yourself slack to adjust the chain tension, and cut the chain. <S> Rivet the chain together using the link, pin or rivet which the brand of chain requires. <S> Derailleur geared bikes use a similar method, except that you wrap the chain around the large front chainring, and the large rear cog without going through the derailleur. <S> Adding the 2 links here gives the appropriate amount of slack for the derailleur to operate. <S> And that's how you do it. <S> There are diagrams on the rear derailleur manual pages, which I'll add when I'm not on the mobile site. <A> and you'll need to remove some links to make it the correct length for your bike. <S> The width is critical. <S> You need to get one that suits the number of gears on your cassette/cluster/rear sprocket (those are all terms for the same thing - the gears on the back wheel of your bike). <S> Count the number of gears, not the teeth on the gears (that's irrelevant). <S> You will probably have either 1 (single speed), 7,8,9,10, or 11 ( <S> probably not 11 - those are very expensive and since you're asking this question I'm guessing you don't have 11). <S> When you buy a new chain, tell the bike store guy (BSG) that you need a chain for X speed where X is the number of gears. <S> If you buy online, the description of the item will specify this number. <S> The size of the links (in mm or inches) is irrelevant if you get the number of gears right. <S> It is probably Shimano, SRAM or possibly Campagnolo. <S> Although some are compatible, I'd recommend you get the same brand as your rear cassette. <S> The "type" of chain is printed on each link = <S> HG-70 or something like that. <S> I recommend that <S> until you really know what you're doing, just buy the same one that came off the old bike. <A> The 1/8" or 3/32" refers to the internal width of the chain, i.e. the width of the rollers. <S> Other sizes do exist, but are rare: <S> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html <S> If you look at a 1/8" and 3/32" chain side by side, it's fairly clear which is which. <S> Chains for derailleur use have thinner sideplates and therefore a smaller external size for increasing number of sprockets. <S> It's not entirely true that you can always use a narrower chain designed for more sprockets if you don't have the right size available - if you use a 9-speed chain with a chainset or sprockets designed for 7-speed chain, you might find that shifting is poor because the little shaped ramps designed to catch on the chain and help lift it onto a bigger gear don't catch the smaller plates properly, or even that the narrower chain can jam into a gap between sprockets where the correct chain wouldn't fit. <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#chains
|
So in principle you can measure the outside width and work it out that way, but in practice its much easier just to know how many gears are on the bike you want to use it with. The brand will probably be printed on the chain links. The length and number of links doesn't matter - as all chains are sold too long
|
What types of mountain bike handle bar grips are available and how to they affect comfort and handling? This question has been floating around in my head for a while, mainly because I don't know anything about grips (edit to resolve confusion:covers for the part of the handlebar you hold on to). Are there different types of grips available for mountain bikes? Do different types of grip affect handling or comfort? <Q> Which grips you get for a mountain bike is mostly a matter of comfort and personal taste. <S> They're exactly what they sound like. <S> Locking grips (that tighten onto the bars with an allen key or a screwdriver) will avoid the grips twisting over time. <S> You can also get "ergonomic" locking grips. <S> I had a pair of these and found them quite comfortable, and again, this is a matter of personal preference. <S> (I also found that they reduced fine control just a little bit.) <S> Some even come with smaller barends built-in. <A> Grips come in different materials. <S> I've tried some rubber grips that have a tread pattern. <S> They're quite grippy for when you need to hold on over rough ground. <S> I found though they could be quite abrasive on my hands and that they could actually cause my skin to split. <S> I've switched to some dense foam (ritchy ergo grips) and they still feel grippy enough, but the material is softer on the hands. <S> Also, I'd recommend getting comfier grips and having thinner gloves rather than trying to get all of your padding in to your glove. <S> It might be my personal preference, but I think this combination gives a better balance of both comfort and control. <A> About a year ago, I mounted Ergon GP1 on my standard bike (BMW cruise bike). <S> I'm more than happy with the feeling and comfort, so I recently mounted Ergon GC2 on my new MTB (Swissbike X5). <S> The bad Scandinavian winter weather has kept me from testing them, but the GP1 experience makes me think they'll perform as expected. <S> Last summer, my mother-in-law complained about numbness and pains in her hands when riding her MTB. <S> I got her and my father-in-law ergonomic handle grips from BBB similar to the Ergon GP1 model. <S> My mother-in-law reported that the numbness was gone.
|
In terms of how they attach to the bike, there are grips that glue on and grips that screw on.
|
Friction in the free hub? I have noticed there's some friction in my free hub on the TCR - when I pedal backwards slowly, I can get the rear wheel to roll backwards (while on the stand). This strikes me as a bad thing - means when I'm coasting on the bike, I'm losing more speed than I should be. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Is this something I should take to my friendly LBS and have them take a look, or is it something I should be able to handle at home? <Q> My Ksyriums do that, and have done for the last 5 years. <S> They still work fine, so I wouldn't be worried about them breaking. <S> I have on a couple of occasions <S> taken the hub apart and cleaned an re-greased the palls and all bearing surfaces. <S> This seemed to reduce it slightly. <S> I would not recommend any changes to the internals of the hub, other than cleaning and lubricating. <S> The consequence of a hub failure at speed are quite bad. <S> The amount of drag you are experiencing is quite small. <S> It's not worth risking that crash for that tiny gain. <S> If you are racing, and that tiny amount of drag really is the difference between win/lose (or, as in my case, between being dropped and hanging on the back. <S> ;-) ) <S> then you might consider second "racing" wheelset. <S> If you do that, I recommend ceramic bearings. <A> That bike has Mavic Ksyrium hubs, and at least one person has had noise and friction issues with one. <S> On the other hand, they are known for their quite aggressive freewheels so you may just be hearing the loud clicking and feeling the slight friction that results. <S> The solution is not to freewheel if you're in a hurry . <S> Using oil instead of grease in the freewheel might help, or it might not. <S> Weakening the springs, using heavier grease and grinding down the freewheel pawls might also work but the risk of having a nasty accident when it fails is quite high. <S> If it really bothers you a different freewheel (if you can) or wheelset are the real solutions. <A> This means the rolling resistance of your wheel is smaller than the friction resistance of the free hub. <S> On really good hubs, this is expected, because the free hub latch actually slides on the casing, and the rest rolls. <S> Congratulate yourself on the quality of your hubs, and go on biking happily. <A> Mavic wheels have three bearings -- one of the bearings is just for the freewheel. <S> If you're experiencing really bad drag from the freewheel, it's possible this bearing needs to be replaced. <S> Tearing apart the freewheel is not terribly difficult, but if you don't have a nice space to work in it could be kind of a pain. <S> For comparrison: when you replace a casette, you're about halfway to the wheel bearings. <S> If you do decide to do it, I would recommend cleaning everything as much as possible, and then re-greasing it. <S> The trick with grease is to use a very small quantity. <S> It's really important to keep things lubed, but excess grease can be a source of friction.
|
I do think it's important to use grease rather than oil, because grease will protect the parts from water and dirt more effectively than oil will -- just be sure to use a very thin film of grease, and you're good to go.
|
Can I put bullhorn bars on a bike with hydraulic disc brakes The most comfortable bike I've ever owned was a road bike with bullhorn (aka pursuit) bars. I actually had a pair of STI levers on it, mounted upside down (with the handles pointing forward). They looked kinda scary, but they were really good that way - I found it was much easier to use the levers that way than on normal road bars. I've since moved on to a flat-bar road bike with hydraulic disc brakes. So my question is - is there any way of getting bullhorn bars going with the current setup - ie hydraulic levers and mountain bike style gear changers. I could conceivably turn the brake levers upside down again and then get bar end shifters for the gears. Would that work? Or is there an off-the-shelf solution? <Q> Your options are fairly limited, nearly all bullhorn bars are sized for 23.8mm road brake levers, while mountain levers are sized for 22.2mm handlebars. <S> There do appear to be some 22.2mm bullhorn bars listed on eBay currently, but your mileage may vary. <S> You may also have luck finding some 22.2mm "north road" style bars that you can flip over or trekking bars with close to the right shape that you can cut down. <S> Alternatively, a set of hydraulic brakes with suitably modifiable clamps. <S> As far as better levers than just using your mountain levers, it's expected that drop-bar hydraulic levers are coming in the not-too-distant future due to disc brakes' recent legalization in UCI cyclocross. <S> In the interim there are some pretty ugly hacks, basically involving running a set of cables from a cabled brake to an interim hydraulic lever. <S> It's not elegant , to say the least. <A> They are a bit hard to find, but if you look, you can find 25.4 clamp which can mount mtb components (like http://www.fabrikcycles.ch/fabrik-black-bullhorn-handlebar.html ) and some 31.8 clamp bars like the On-One Bingo <S> (I don't know if this is still made, but it existed at one point). <S> However, the simplest way to get some bullhorn advantages while running mtb components is to start with a mtb flat/riser bar and add some bar ends (not bar end shifters, but <S> something like the Ergon GP5 without the grips) - this gives you a bit more spacing options for placing the shifters+brakes. <S> but that doesn't solve your problem). <A> Purefix makes a 22.2mm bullhorn bar: <S> https://www.purefixcycles.com/products/bull-horn-bars <S> I'm thinking about trying it out on my commuter build. <A> TRP make road hydraulic brakes at a reasonable price, I'm thinking about a pair of these, with bar-end shifters.
|
There are also now cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes (like the TRP Hy/Rd) which may be worth looking at (though obviously, replacing mechanical disc brakes (which are quite good these days) lets things like interrupter levers and what not work
|
Replace Brompton folding pedal - what tool is needed? I've managed to completely break the folding left-hand pedal on my Brompton. The bit where it fastens onto the crank* is fine, but the rest of it gone. What tool(s) do I need to remove the broken pedal and fit a new one? I'm asking this because I want to compare the price of doing it myself (pedal + tools) to the price of getting my local Brompton dealer to do it (pedal + labor + loss of self-respect). Thanks. *Please forgive me if my terminology is terribly wrong! :o <Q> If it's a pre-2012 non-titanium Brompton, it takes a 24mm socket. <S> If it's a 2012 on-wards, it needs an 8mm Allen key. <S> The 2009 to 2012 titanium Brompton used a 10mm Allen key in a Ti pedal bolt. <S> The official Instructions are available on Brompton's site. <S> Very important: remember that the left hand pedal is left-threaded -- the reverse of normal. <S> Note that pedals can get quite tight. <S> A standard 8mm Allen wrench might well not be enough leverage. <A> The right hand pedal uses a standard 15mm spanner. <A> It worked with a 24 mm socket on mine. <S> But remember it is left hand thread. <S> So turn the wrench clockwise to loosen! <S> I had an annoying tick with each rotation when this pedal was on top. <S> I noticed a fatigue crack in the titanium casing, but also there was 1 mm play between the black plastic and the vertical plate in locked position, and this could also be the cause of the noise. <S> My Brompton is 4 years old and was used for only 1250 km with great care, so I would consider this failure of the pedal a construction fault! <A> this should help you. <S> Basically a big allen key should do the trick: <A> Having never seen a folding Brompton pedal, I would assume a standard pedal wrench would do the trick. <S> It's basically a skinny 15mm open end wrench: <S> http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-pedal-wrench . <S> Keep in mind <S> the left side pedal is reverse threaded, so you'll have to turn it clockwise to loosen.
|
An 8mm Allen socket combined with a larger socket wrench is a better tool. As per an email from Brompton: ...the folding pedal needs a 24mm socket to remove unless it is a superlight bike, the titanium folding pedal bolt uses a 10mm hex.
|
Do road bikes use the same width headsets? I know that most commonly MTB's use 1 1/8" steerers and older non-suspension bikes use 1" but I don't really know anything about the width of modern road bikes. Do they now use 1 1/8" or do they use a different width? <Q> Most modern bicycles, be they road or mountain, use 1 1/8" threadless headsets. <A> Tapered headsets with a larger lower bearing are becoming more common on road bikes. <S> Doesn't make any difference to what stems fit, but if you are replacing a headset (or fork), it matters. <S> e.g. <S> http://www.fullspeedahead.com/category_list/53/HEADSETS <S> (And 1" threadless headsets also exist. <S> Most likely to be on an older bike that has had a new headset fitted, I suspect.) <A> Tapered 1.125/ 1.5 inch head tubes are common on many higher end mountain bikes in 2013 with more bikes and manufacturers heading this way. <S> Most top suspension forks are offered in both straight and tapered steerers. <S> It is possible to use a headset that reduces bottom width in tapered head tubes to a straight 1.125 steerer.
|
You will occasionally find bicycles, particularly in the lower cost ranges, that will still use an old 1" threaded headset and a threaded quill stem, but these are becoming more and more rare every year. Tapered headsets improve stiffness and strength.
|
Correct way to pedal I've managed to break my bike frame, and after doing some reading, it is possible that I'm not pedaling correctly by putting too much into my power stroke (see the related question I keep breaking my road frames - why? ). What is the correct technique to pedal, and what is the best way to get up to speed without causing too much stress to the bike frame? <Q> Short answer: <A> There's a lot of theories about correct ways to pedal and different ways to do it, and different equipment setups that can either help you do it right or help you learn to do it right. <S> But unless you're worried about small differences (like for competitive riding), it can be kept relatively simple. <S> I'm sure we have some users who can talk more about specific pedaling techniques. <S> Pedal in an easier gear (but faster). <S> Try to use more of the pedal stroke. <S> Don't fight your own pedal power. <S> Don't stand. <S> Stay on the saddle. <S> Generally try to keep everything smooth and even with no bouncing. <S> The easier gear thing should be fairly obvious. <S> You can get the same power by pedaling faster in a lower gear. <S> This should reduce the strain on the bottom bracket area. <S> Don't power through a tough gear when starting up, downshift while slowing down. <S> There's a tendency for some people to "mash" the pedal from a bit in front of the top of the stroke down to about the bottom. <S> Often with a substantial side-to-side weight shift. <S> That will always be the most powerful part of your pedal stroke, but try to also use the top of the stroke and the bottom. <S> That kind of mashing seems likely to be harder on the frame. <S> Try to push the pedal over the top and scrape it across the bottom. <S> As far as fighting your own pedal power: on the back side of the stroke, try to lift your foot a bit. <S> Don't lift so much that your foot actually comes off of a platform pedal <S> (this is an advantage of clips or clipless systems). <S> Most people leave a fair amount of weight on the back pedal and they're pushing against it with the front pedal. <S> If you provide some lift to the rear foot you'll go faster and produce less total downward force on the bottom bracket. <S> Especially if you're clipped in, it might feel like you're pulling the rear pedal up. <S> Standing puts your weight all on the bottom bracket and handlebars. <S> The bike is designed to have a good portion of your weight on the saddle. <S> Occasionally standing shouldn't be a problem, but doing it too often is a common bad habit and hard on the bike. <A> 'Spinning' is the idea that the momentum of the legs is maintained through using a slightly higher gear than you might be able to push it with. <S> So you'll be trying to maintain an almost constant rhythm <S> , you don't push explicitly - or if you do, you're matching it with a pull on the other side. <S> By constant I mean both rev to rev, but almost within the revolution, pushing harder (even on both sides) is going to be accelerating and slowing down within each stroke - maintenance of speed and momentum is generally easier than creation. <S> Too much power is a slightly bizarre, but completely credible idea: if you're pedalling 80 or 100 revs per minute, or even slightly higher, you should be trying to keep each rev the same. <S> Pushing significantly harder for a few revs (or parts of revs) won't make a massive speed difference, but will hurt you and possibly your bike! <S> Straight away, a quick observation is that these styles will only really work if you're clipped in (or maybe with straps). <A> You are going to break you before you break a bike frame - with bad pedaling !
|
It sounds pretty unbelievable to me, but you could try pedalling with easier gears and spinning legs faster instead of applying lots of power.
|
What's the most secure type of bike lock that costs less than $30? I already have the cable cable kind with the combination lock. It just seems cheap and easy to break into. Is that sufficient or are the U shaped ones better? <Q> Honestly, I must say that there is no such thing. <S> Sometimes you can find a U-lock used on Craigslist or similar websites and you might get a better deal. <S> Otherwise, $30 is below bottom-of-the-ladder for U-locks. <S> And think about it. <S> What are you paying for with that 30-50-even $90? <S> It's a one-installment insurance policy on your bicycle. <S> I would suggest that you lay down some real money and get a good lock. <S> If you don't, you can either Never take your bike anywhere that won't allow you to bring it inside with you. <S> Plan on replacing your bike frequently and encouraging the bike thieves. <S> My frivolous answer: <S> Really. <S> Maybe you shouldn't spend a bunch of money on a bike lock. <S> If you get a cheap lock, the bike thieves will have no reason to learn how to open the more expensive type which will leave my bicycle all the safer! <S> Bike locks cost real dough because they are designed to stand up to real abuse. <S> I once had a job where I routinely went around a park with a pair of huge bolt cutters, removing the bike locks (and sometimes bikes) that were abandoned there. <S> The cheap locks are a hellva lot easier to cut off of railings than the beefy OnGuard types. <S> You do get what you pay for, here, at least in the range of $0-50. <S> Cheap locks are almost not worth buying. <S> A $50 U-lock will stand up to several tries with a pair of bolt cutters that have three-foot levers attached to the handles. <A> I watched Youtube videos of people breaking various locks: Cable - using manual clippers that you can easily carry inside a jacket: snip the cable in one snip Heavy chain (e.g. as used for locking mopeds) - using cutters with 5-foot-long handles: much hopping and heaving with whole body weight, takes about 20 seconds U-lock - using an angle grinder (a kind of power tool, perhaps with diamond cutting surface): takes 5 seconds, and a power source (I don't know if you can get battery-operated ones) <S> Summary: <S> a cable will [only] stop 'casual' thieves who don't carry a tool with them; and would be no deterrent to a regular/professional thief. <A> You're much better off with a D lock (U lock) because they're harder to remove without the key. <S> A cable lock can be cut through with a cheap tool <S> that's easily carried in a pocket. <S> Cheap D locks are pretty similar to each other, but avoid the cylindrical key types (if you can still find them) because instructions on how to pick those quickly are all over the internet . <S> The comment below about smaller locks being more secure is correct, but with the proviso "if used correctly". <S> A smaller lock is often harder to use correctly. <S> I use a small D lock (ABUS Granit) but have locking QR skewers (pitlocks) so don't need to lock my wheels separately. <S> Without knowing your location a specific recommendation is not possible - I would use my LBS but if you're not in Melbourne they might not be the best choice. <S> I used google and found this online site which seems to have a reasonable selection. <A> Smaller locks are harder to break than big locks - if you know there is a rack that is thin enough to lock the frame to. <S> Having a cable/chain as well gives you more options - <S> a chain is harder to snip. <S> This is about $30 <S> Two locks are always better than one - even if it just causes the thief to look at the next bike. <A> I saw a demonstration where they compared U/D-locks and cable-locks. <S> None resisted the cable cutter, but the thicker the lock was, independent from the type of lock, the bigger the cable cutter had to be. <S> Conclusion <S> : Use a very thick lock. <S> Don't look at the type.
|
The larger locks make it easy to lock the rear wheel + frame to a poorly located pole or fence, so are often more secure in a specific situation because they can lock your bike correctly where a smaller lock cannot.
|
What should I look for in a cycling undershirt for warm weather? Road season is about to start here and I think that it is time I stopped using my cotton singlets as an undershirt and start using something more specific for cycling (and racing in particular). What is the best material for me to get? <Q> My favourite base layers are Merino wool, in particular from Rapha . <S> They are seriously not cheap, but they are definitely worth it. <S> Very warm in winter with the long sleeve, but surprisingly cooling in the summer with the short/no sleeve. <A> A wicking polyester t-shirt eg. <S> either coolmax or underarmour <S> They aren't cheap but you can normally find some online retailer (especially in the US) doing a deal. <S> Edit. <S> apparently I'm a cheapskate! <S> Expect to pay $10-15 for a short sleeve shirt. <S> If you buy these brand names they will lost for many years. <S> Only draw back is that the stuff does get smelly. <S> Modern low temperature detergents don't kill the bugs - so if you are an extra smelly cyclist you have to soak them in bleach / bicarb / special running gear smell-killer occasionally. <A> If you take a look at the fabric care labels on these base layer products, it often states that the fabric is 100% polyester and sometimes a blend of polyester and spandex. <S> However, for cycling (sports) gear the material is technically called microfiber . <S> "The most common types of microfibers are made from polyesters. <S> " The key benefit of microfibers is that the material wicks moisture (sweat) away from the body, keeping the wearer cool and dry. <S> (Unlike cotton which will keep you wet and clammy.) <S> When selecting, I look for labels specifying a base layer for warm weather . <S> After that, for my personal tastes, I want the fabric to be soft, non-itchy, and form fitting. <S> At this point I currently have Craft and Gore products for cycling since they meet my criteria. <S> There are other brands of base layers, for example Nike calls it's base layer fabrics, "Dry-FIT". <S> Here's a link to a fabric library on BicycleApparel.com . <S> As you can see there are quite a few proprietary names for polyester! <A> Under Armour makes a line of Heat Gear shirts that are quite good in the summer; they're so light, they feel almost like you're wearing nothing at all. <S> (I saw two sorts on the racks, and the shirts labeled "green" feel like they're made of a softer and more comfortable fabric. <S> (I got them in yellow.) <S> They're polyester, so they wick well. <S> The short-sleeve shirts are inexpensive; the mens' tee-shirts go for about $25. <S> The ladies' shirts go for significantly more, my wife just got the mens' shirts and they're fine for her. <A> I wear something like this Gore Bike Wear Baselayer Shirt : although I'm fairly sure I didn't pay anywhere near £30 for it. <S> But I have had it for a few years now and it may be a completely inferior model to the one shown. <S> I like it because it acts as a wicking layer and a windproof layer, getting rid of my sweat and stopping the lovely subarctic winds which whistle down from the West Pennine Moors from making it chill next to my skin (and that's in the summer). <A> I live in Texas <S> so this undershirt concept confuses me. <S> Why would you wear more than 1 shirt? <S> http://www.pearlizumi.com/publish/content/pi_2010/us/en/index/products/men/ride/apparel/jerseys.-productCode-11121108.html#3DP
|
Pearl Izumi Quest Sleeveless Jersey is my favorite on a hot day.
|
Amateur Bicycle Racing outside of the US I'm interested in taking a trip to Europe (although perhaps this question can apply to other areas of the world) and do some bike racing at a really amateur level like the equivalent of Cat 4 or Cat 3 in the US. Mainly interested in road races. Any ideas on where I can find information on these types of races if they exist? Also any tips on administrative details of racing as a foreigner are appreciated. <Q> If you are coming to the Uk then the British Cycling website is probably the place to start. <A> Finding a local club should help you immensely as well. <S> I believe that in most places you can race with either a local license or an international (UCI) license. <S> Depending on where you live and where you're planning to race, one of those options may be considerably cheaper than the other (North American licenses tend to be cheaper than those in western Europe, for example). <A> In the UK, TLI Cycling events offer age-related racing, allowing a rider to compete in his/her peer group, without paying over the top for a UCI licence. <S> TLI Cycling offers single day membership at £4 on top of the race entry fee, and provides you with public liability insurance of £10,000,000. <S> For details see the TLI Cycling website
|
Checking the website of the national cycling federation in your country of interest should point you in the right direction in terms of races.
|
What are the benefits of external bottom brackets? Pretty soon, I plan to replace the bottom bracket on my early 90's Sakae Litage road bike. It takes a standard, English-threaded bottom bracket. Right now I think it contains loose bearings --I was planning to replace it with a decent-quality cartidge. I see a lot of external bottom brackets when I am looking at my LBS 's website. I have replaced many sets of loose BB bearings and several cartridge BB's. I know nothing about these external things. Why do there seem to be more of them for sale than cartridge bottom brackets? Do they have larger, longer-lasting bearings? Would it benefit me to consider one as opposed to the cartidge BB's that I have been using recently? I ride pretty seriously for fun, commuting, and errands... I built this bike specifically for doing really hilly weekend rides. But I'm not a racer. Curious. Many thanks. <Q> External bottom brackets allow you to have both large bearings and a large, hollow bottom bracket spindle. <S> A large hollow spindle can be designed to be as stiff as a small solid spindle for less weight. <S> Moving the bearings to the outside effectively removes this tradeoff. <S> There is an additional performance factor in situations where high stiffness is required in that the distance between the cranks and the bearings is reduced, lessening the torque on the axle. <S> For commuting, errands, recreational riding and other "normal" purposes a cartridge bottom bracket is almost always going to be more than sufficient. <S> If you are particularly concerned about durability, the SKF bottom brackets are engineered for 10 years / 100,000km of riding, but for the price a $25 Shimano cartridge will usually last what feels like forever. <A> The main benefit is weight - because the axle is now a pipe it gains strength from diameter and hence can use less metal. <S> Bicycle frames are made of tubing rather than solid rod for the same reason. <S> One disadvantage is that the balls in the bearings have to be smaller because there's less space to fit them in, so all things being equal they will wear out faster. <S> But things are not equal, and what's made it practical to have external bottom brackets is improved metallurgy and precision manufacturing. <S> So an external BB should last as long as a similarly priced internal one. <S> (edit) <S> And as lantius pointed out in the comments, the balls in an external BB will be close to the same size as the ones in a cartridge BB anyway, the "smaller" comment is mostly relevant to a comparison with open bottom brackets. <S> Shimano had problems with the seals in their external bottom brackets that was causing a lot of premature failure <S> but I believe those have been solved now. <S> We've stopped seeing them coming in for early replacement, anyway. <S> You will also need to change your cranks to fit an external bottom bracket. <S> Rather than a square taper external BB's all use a splined system. <S> Which is an improvement over the square taper but there are several types. <S> Make sure you can get a BB to match whatever cranks you buy. <S> They have also changed the sizing, from memory there are only a couple of lengths of external BB available rather than 10 or more. <S> This may mean that you end up with your chainrings slightly offset from their current positions, but with a derailleur system that shouldn't be a problem. <S> On a singlespeed it will give you a bent chainline which is bad. <S> Personally I don't see the point in upgrading an existing bike. <S> If you needed new cranks and were focussed on weight it might make sense, but it's an expensive risk <S> (things might not work the first time) for a very small gain. <S> For the same price you could get a Phil Wood BB that will last forever, or save money by buying cheap cartridge BB's as you need them. <A> This is a mighty old posting that I am responding to almost 5 years later, but I thought it would be helpful for those who are looking to overhaul their BB and thinking of moving to the external. <S> For the most part that is captured here, External hubs are at least 30% lighter than the internal hubs. <S> Because the bearing cups are outside the BB shell, it provides more leverage on riders who ride hard on the pedals, hammering away. <S> The bearings are indeed LARGER than the internal hubs which means longevity of the BB. <S> When they do wear, the bearings can be replaced without chucking the entire unit, saving you time and money. <S> However you will need to purchase a BB Exit Tool ($15) to make it happen. <S> Replaced my internal hub twice and then tried the external hub <S> , so far it has lasted me more than double the life expectancy of my two internal hubs. <S> Hope that helps.
|
Smaller bearings reduce the longevity of a bottom bracket, so the typical bottom bracket design allows a narrow range of suitable spindle sizes and bearing sizes - to get the weight savings from a larger spindle you need to sacrifice durability. So in a nutshell, external hubs are 30% lighter and 40-45% percent longer lasting than your internal hub.
|
How long should cycling shorts last? As a follow-up to " What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts? ," how long should I expect a good pair of cycling shorts (regular or bib) last? I think that an estimate in hours or km would be more useful than months or years(?). Is there an objective way to know when I should replace a worn out pair? <Q> Eventually, the material will thin out and holes will start to appear. <S> Objectively, if people can see your junk, then it's time to retire the shorts (or, in colder climates, restrict them to winter-only duty under tights). <S> The chamois will deteriorate over time as well, so if a pair of shorts isn't as comfortable as it once was, it's about time to throw it away. <S> As far as durability, I'd be very disappointed in any set of shorts that didn't last at least 5000 km. <S> Another note on care and feeding--make sure that the shorts never rub against anything abrasive (seat bag, velcro bits hanging off jacket, etc.) <S> while you ride, as the material can wear through in an awful hurry. <A> For shorts that I commute in every weekday I spend a little over an hour a day in them (100km/week). <S> Those should last 3 months to a year when laundered weekly. <S> Cheaper ones tend to last 3-6 months, better ones closer to a year. <S> I've had some shocking experiences with branded cheap shorts lasting a month, and other times apparently identical shorts will last a year. <S> But I buy commuting shorts out of the sale bins so my selection is limited. <S> I haven't trained on an upright for some years, but when I used to I'd spend a bit more and get better ones, focussing mostly on the chamois. <S> A thicker, well shaped chamois normallys comes with shorts that will outlast the chamois <S> so I buy on that. <S> I still only get 6 months out of the shorts, but I ride 6-12 hours a week in them and at least rinse them after every ride. <A> I've only worn out 3 or 4 pairs of regular shorts in the last 18 years, so it's possible to make them last. <S> I try to buy high quality pairs and relegate the older ones for use on the trainer. <S> Proper care (gentle cold water wash, hang dry) is important to keep them from wearing out too soon. <S> Also watch out for the chamois bunching up or getting rough in places.
|
If the shorts develop large holes, lose their stretch or the stitching starts to come undone, then it's time to say goodbye. I regard anything over 6 months as a win.
|
Should I eat breakfast before or after morning ride? I am planning to do some (1-2 hours) base training rides in the morning before work. Should I eat something before the ride? From my knowledge, there should be enough glycogen in muscles to power me. Are there any other considerations? What if I increased load to strength and interval training? <Q> While having a big heavy meal would probably be bad, having something in there, plus doing some refueling along the ride will help you keep from bonking and also make sure you are not running on a deficit for the rest of your day. <S> I find that if I have a light breakfast and then add to that energy gels about every 45 minutes I am pretty good. <S> My riding buddy, on the other hand, eats a McDonalds McMuffin and hash browns which would make an explosive exit if they were in my stomach. <A> Eating shouldn't be an either/or activity, but you're right to question the items and the timings. <S> You should be looking for something slow release before - <S> so the fats in a muffin combined with the slow release carbs in the dough are cunning <S> (my favourite is a jam sandwich - fast release fructose from the jam, inhibited a little by the fat in the butter, with the slow release from the bread kicking in later). <S> It's the morning, so maybe a milky, sugary coffee could be in order! <S> Then remember to refuel during, quick release, so gels or powder in your water bottle are great. <S> Don't overlook the recovery mixture. <S> Your body is in heavy replenishment mode for 20-30 minutes after a workout and will be looking for proteins to help muscle recovery as well as new sugars to boost the blood sugar for the day ahead. <A> If you're training your muscles - for strength or endurance, I would eat. <S> But if you are training your energy transport and metabolism then there is a lot to be said for not eating. <S> Training on an empty stomach will force your body to burn fat earlier. <S> By spending longer burning fat your body will adapt to this mode and increase its efficiency at doing this, so that your endurance past your stored-glycogen limit will improve.
|
Interval training will strain the body more than long, slow, distance, so you'll definitely want to look at the refuelling strategies (you can buy specific post-exercise energy drinks). I think that is question can at least be partially answered by whether or not you can tolerate food in your stomach.
|
Where can I get some rags? As I'm getting into the habit of cleaning and maintaining my bike more often, I am burning through my stockpile of rags. Up until now I have been using worn-out clothes as rags. I am going to run out soon and I need to get some more. My LBS (big chain store) just said they get a large, vacuum packed bag of rags delivered from head office every so often. They were kind enough to give me a bunch for free and they seem to be old bedsheets. Whilst I could go to a charity shop and buy some sheets, I'm not keen on cleaning my bike with something that someone might want to buy to wear. What do you use as rags and where do you get them from? <Q> The best shop rags I have ever used are blue medical operating room towels. <S> They are much stronger than old clothes. <S> They are intended to be thrown away, but I wash them and use 'em again. <S> However, I don't know where to get them. <S> Maybe if you have an O.R. doctor or nurse in the family. <S> (I also use these to clean the kitchen, to wipe up spilled soup, to wash a car or bike, as hot pads, and as napkins. <S> I put a damp one under the cutting board to make it stable.) <A> For the dirty jobs, like cleaning the chain, I use throwaway paper from a roll: [dead link removed] <S> One of the bigger rolls tends to last for years. <S> That way, I get along with my personal used clothing as rags. <S> I generally dont wash the rags. <S> There are rags from synthetics which just arent absorbant enough. <S> I had a neighbour who worked at a sewing factory, and she brought the synthetics stuff as rags. <S> A decent sized of those rags wouldnt take in a cup of water, and dissolve in some solvents. <S> Not good. <S> For Cotton, look at stuff like this: http://www.thewipeshop.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23 <A> In Australia we can buy bags of rags from most tool shops, and from op shops . <S> The op shops get a lot of clothing donated that really is only good for rags so they pass that on to the rag people. <S> If you buy direct from the op shop you often get a fairly wild variety of clothing, much of it not very absorbent. <S> But it's cheaper and your money goes direct to charity. <S> Our local is actually quite good about separating the usable rags from the other stuff, I suspect because there's a few of us who go in there looking for rags. <S> But our big chain hardware shop sells big bags of rags very cheaply, cheaper than the op shop does. <A> I cut a piece off a pair of old (holey) jeans. <S> I could cut those jeans into 40 pieces, which would last about 40 weeks: so, not quite enough. <S> I kept the rag though; I might try washing it (hand-washing it, separately), which could let it last longer. <A> Using old clothes is an obvious answer. <S> I wear clothes from a second-hand shop - they cost next to nothing and wear quickly. <S> Furthermore, it is beneficial to have two active rags at any time . <S> The rough one is used to remove mud from the frame and drivetrain. <S> The fine one is cleaner and used for cleaning the chain after lubing, the stanchions and any parts, near the discs of the rotors of disc brakes. <S> Yet another source of rags can be online delivery packaging paper - thick recycled paper, put inside the boxes to prevent the items from sliding around. <S> It soaks grease well and furthermore provides outstanding grip on greasy surfaces (quick-link). <S> However, using paper to soak oils renders it unrecyclable. <A> I use lots of paper towels, but I know Home Depot, Menards, Lowes etc all sell big bundles of terry cloth towels in their cleaning supplies sections. <A> I try to make my old T-shirts last as long as I can for cleaning the drive train and getting the larger clumps of dirt, but then use Pledge disposable wipes (available at most grocery stores in the US) to wipe down/clean the frame, seat, post, handlebars, cranks, fork, spokes. <S> They work very well, cheap and easily available. <A> Muslin cloths, which are commonly used for babies, make the best rags. <S> They don't leave any fluff, wash up well and are hardy and last a long time. <S> They can be expensive in some baby shops but can be found cheap in large packs in supermarkets and bulk stores. <A> Dumpster Diving, maybe even at a thrift store
|
For the not-so dirty jobs, the baseline is "not dirty enough to throw the rag away after", I use rags. When you go buy rags, you should take t-shirt rags made from cotton.
|
What causes my front wheel to twist when I apply the brake? I have a 2005 Specialized HardRock Sport with disc brakes. When I'm slowing down from a reasonable speed with the front brake, I noticed that the top of the front wheel appears to deflect sideways toward the disc. I can't tell when I'm riding but I suspect that the whole wheel is twisting. This doesn't seem to be safe to me, and I'm don't remember that happening before when I ride. I tightened the QR on the front already. What else could be the cause of this or where should I start to look? Or has it always done this and I never noticed before? <Q> I'd take a close look at your dropout and your QR skewer. <S> The rotating disc exerts an upward force on the disc caliper, which tends to want to push the dropout up and away from the axle (or as normally stated, pushes the axle down and out of the dropout). <S> Some calculations at Jules & James ' comprehensive site computes the force generated to be as much as 3800N. To achieve a 6mm offset at the top of the tire <S> you'd need the axle to move about 1mm within the dropout. <S> Try spinning the wheel in a bike stand with the skewer loose enough to allow free sliding but not wheel ejection, and see if you can replicate the same effect you're seeing out in the real world. <A> It could be wear or poor adjustment of your hub bearings. <S> There should be little or no movement. <A> When you brake with disk brakes, enormous force is placed on one side of the fork and essentially none on the other. <S> The fork is going to deform -- it's just a question of how much. <A> It will be your spokes... <S> they will all need tightening (on the drive side at least but get someone to check them all). <S> This can happen if your bike comes assembled from a manufacturer.
|
Try lifting the bike up at the front and try moving the wheel from one side to the other. Caliper brakes, of course, distribute the force evenly, so you don't notice any deformation, even though there is some from the wheel pushing backwards on the fork. I suspect it's the fork that's deforming and causing the "twist".
|
How to avoid wearing out gears? I have a Specialized Tricross which I bought new last year. In that time (approximately 1K miles), I wore out my chain and gears. At least two of my gears are still slipping, even with a new chain. I think I spend the majority of my time in one or two gears. Should I avoid this? Are there other things I should be doing to avoid replacing my chain/gears every season? I am a novice who mostly just commutes to work, so assume I know very little about form. <Q> A stretched chain will wear out gears (especially the rear cassette). <S> You can see when this because the teeth get worn away to points - it's very obvious. <S> But it's very unlikely <S> you wore out a chain and gears in 1000 Km. <S> What is more likely is that the cable has stretched slight from new and the derailuer is out of adjustment so it is putting the chain slightly between two gears. <S> For adjustment details see - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html <S> You are going to stretch the chain, and break more of them by being in too high a gear - just like in a car. <S> You will also wear the chain faster by being in a 'bad' gear - eg on the inner front cog and the smallest back cog or <S> (v.v.) <A> I wore out my chain and gears ... <S> Are there other things I should be doing to avoid replacing my chain/gears every season? ... <S> I am a novice who mostly just commutes to work, so assume I know very little about form. <S> One bit of self-maintenance (as well as keeping your tires pumped) is to keep your chain lubricated. <S> If your chain isn't lubricated then (it's slower to drive and) <S> it wears out more quickly. <S> See <S> How do I lubricate my chain? <S> I was told I don't need to especially clean my gears: <S> a) because lubrication on the chain will sufficiently-lubricate the gears; b) I'm riding on road, not mud; c) <S> I have fenders/mud-guards which help keep the worst of the muck off the bike as well as off me. <S> See also How much maintenance (for chains and cassettes)? <A> The chain is what causes all the wear on your drive components. <S> It is called chain stretch <S> but your chain does not stretch it wears at each pin or rivet and increases in length. <S> When this wear is excessive it wears the cassette teeth, chain set teeth and the jockey wheels on your rear gear. <S> When all this equipment is new, Keep it clean and oiled. <S> Depending on how much you cycle you might require two new chains a year but that is cheaper than; new cassette, chain rings and jockey wheels. <S> If you cycle for a year and clock up 1000-1500 miles you will require to replace the chain and cassette. <S> If you don't and just replace the chain you will find the gears will jump and that is due to the wear that is on the rear cogs. <S> Hope that helps.
|
Buy yourself a chain wear gauge and this will indicate to you when to change your chain before it causes excessive wear on your other drive components. To answer your question - No you aren't going to do any damage by using only one gear, if it's the correct gear.
|
Can I just change straightforward wheel axles to QR skewers? I've just bought a second hand road bike which doesn't have Quick Release Skewers. Can I just buy a set of QR Skewers and fit them? Are they a standard size? Are there any gotchas waiting to bite me if I do change to them? Is there anything specific I need to look for in order to change to QR Skewers? <Q> I'm not sure if you intend to replace the axles themselves, but AFAIK, most nutted axles are not hollow, which means they can't accommodate QR skewers. <S> If this is true in your case, you will need to replace the axles outright in order to use QR skewers. <S> QR axles for modern hubs do come in a few "standard" sizes, but you will nevertheless want to measure the dimensions of your frame and hubs anyway, in case they are not standard. <S> You mentioned your bike is second-hand, which indicates it might be older, in which case this is doubly so. <S> There are three dimensions to check: <S> Hub spacing - This is the distance from the inside of one dropout to the other. <S> You can measure this by removing the wheels from the frame and sticking a ruler in the dropouts. <S> Otherwise, the QR may be too short or too long for the hub. <S> With non-QR axles, an axle that is too long is not a problem (the nuts will still go on fine, and if you need to, you can cut the excess axle), but with a QR axle, you can't really trim the axle, because the QR skewer can't be trimmed. <S> Again, you should measure this yourself-- <S> I'm just giving you an idea of what these numbers should be. <S> Axle diameter <S> - The QR axles you get should match the diameter of the existing axles so you can re-use the existing cups and locknuts (unless you were planning on replacing those, too). <S> Common axle diameters are between 8 to 10 mm, or 5/16", or 3/8". <S> Thread pitch - <S> This is basically the angle of the threads on the axle. <S> Like the diameter, this will need to match the existing axle if you want to re-use the cups. <S> According to The Sheldon , thread pitch is measured in either threads per inch or millimeters per thread, with a 1 mm/thread pitch being equivalent to 25.4 TPI. <S> Common thread pitches include 1 mm/thread, 26 TPI, and (rarely) 24 TPI. <A> The axles need to be hollow QR axles; if they're solid you obviously can't put the skewer through it. <S> You can replace the axles as well, but that starts raising the complexity level. <S> Otherwise, skewers are basically standard. <S> You'll need to get them in the correct lengths for front and rear. <S> For new, the Shimano ones are quite nice. <A> Replacing solid with hollow axles can be done, but as noted above the dimensions must be exactly right. <S> As well, you will have to completely take down the hubs and re-establish the bearing adjustments. <S> Normally, if you have the hubs apart, you'd be advised to replace the bearings, as it's standard mechanic's practice not to re-use them. <A> There is an alternative system called Axle Release available that puts a special nut on each side of the axle, which looks like a quick release lever. <S> Both are done/undone to install the wheel. <S> You can see how it is installed in this video
|
To replace the axles, you will need to find QR axles and skewers to match your hub spacing. Typically, hub spacing on modern bikes is 100 mm (front) and between 120 and 130 mm (rear).
|
How to warm up / stretch and cool down? I'm starting to ride again after a couple of years of not doing any sports at all. I dimly remember some stretching exercises back from school, but I don't know if I'm doing it right at all. Instead of listing what I'm doing and asking for "correct, yes/no", I'd like to know how exactly one should prepare for a bike tour. I'm currently doing small tours (20km) to get used to it again, but plan to go bigger during summer. Just a few minutes ago I stumbled upon the following article, explaining a few stretching exercises. Unfortunately, it's focused on running, and I believe that there aren't exactly the same muscles involved. Five Fantastic Stretching Exercises (pdf). The article also mentions a cool-down phase, which I don't remember at all from school. So, to conclude: How should I warm up, how long, what stretching exercises should I do, and when? How should the cool down be done? <Q> Stretching has become somewhat controversial among exercise physiologists. <S> I listened to one such lady on NPR's Science Friday a couple of months ago, and she said that the university she worked out of had conducted a number of fairly extensive tests and surveys indicating that very little benefit accrued from this practice. <S> Other than that it felt kind of good. <S> Wired's Pre-Exercise Stretching Is Killing Your Workout article discusses such studies. <S> I've never bothered with pre-ride stretching. <S> In fact, the standard wisdom is that one should first warm up and THEN stretch. <S> Ride slowly, let the legs get used to spinning and the arms used to bearing a bit of weight before increasing your pace. <S> I used to stretch post-ride; the standard quad and hamstrings stretches and also calf-muscle stretches by standing with my toes on a stair and letting body-weight stretch the calf... <S> But I admit I hardly bother anymore. <A> I don't stretch (static stretching) prior to riding at all. <S> For commuting, I do nothing; but for a long ride or fast fitness ride, I will do a dynamic warm-up. <S> A good article about stretching from a while back in the New York Times. <S> Why? <S> Mainly to avoid neck and shoulder pain during the ride. <S> I don't do any pre-ride exercises for the lower body. <S> Ride - I start out slow to warm up. <S> For the first 10 - 15 minutes of the ride I ride slowly in order to get my legs and hips warmed up. <S> Post-ride - If you want to do static stretching , this is the time to do that. <S> Mainly, because this is the time when your muscles are warm. <S> Lower body stretches would be things like hamstring, quad, hip, and calf stretches. <S> Upper body stretches would be shoulder, neck and back stretches. <S> Basically, if you have tight muscles after a ride, it may very well be therapeutic to stretch those muscles. <A> Amusingly I do something very close to the first result I found in google . <S> Perhaps it's a fairly standard set? <S> The key one for me and other cycle tourists I've seen is the quad stretch. <S> Cycling tends to shorten your quads which pulls your kneecaps out of position resulting in the classic knee pains. <S> So those stretches are as important for us as for runners. <S> So I do quad stretches at least twice a day, usually whenever I get on or off the bike, and a proper stretching session most days. <S> I do an aikido stretch warmup (without most of the wrist/hand stretches) because that gets everything going and I'm used to it. <S> If you don't already have a program I suggest looking at yoga or tai chi to put some structure into your stretches. <S> I do my aikido set because I'm used to it <S> and it reminds me to practice akido when I'm on the road. <A> Other than that you used to do it at school, is there a particular reason you think you should stretch? <S> Like yourself, I remember a few stretching exercises from when I was at school. <S> When I started riding my bike to work, I did what I could remember after every ride. <S> When I joined a club and started doing longer rides (upward of 50 miles) <S> I found it was essential for me to stretch, because if I didn't I would get painful cramp in my hamstrings sitting on the sofa later in the day. <S> However, I recently stopped stretching and focused on keeping hydrated during and after my rides, which has had the same effect of preventing cramp. <S> Warm up by taking it easy at the start of the ride; spin at a high cadence in a low gear.
|
Pre-ride - I do an upper body dynamic stretching/warm-up routine similar to this one.
|
Is there anything similar to motorbike roadbook holders for bicycles? Does anybody know if there may be in commerce anything similar to the roadbook holders they use on offroad motorbikes, but for use on bicycles? I know there are some electronic versions in commerce that include a GPS system, but I was looking for a cheaper solution (possibly smaller than the one below). Here's a sample: An installed roadbook: <Q> Personally I just use the map case on a handlebar bag (needs to be oriented properly to work), but here's a clever DIY solution by Raymond Parker: <S> Basically it's a piece of wire bent to prop the cue sheet at the right angle. <S> Put your sheet in a waterproof case or ziplock and a couple of binder clips hold it in place. <S> A shock cord keeps the whole assembly in place. <S> Full instructions here: http://veloweb.ca/garagepages/sheetholder.html <A> I've never seen anything quite that complicated for directions on a bicycle. <S> I think that the lower speeds on a bicycle compare to a motorcycle make simpler solutions fine. <S> If you've got a very long trip, plan breaks where you stop to coincide with when you need to flip the directions around. <S> A few suggestions: <S> Just stick the directions in a pocket. <S> With some careful folding you can fit quite a bit of directions on something in your pocket. <S> Note the distance and directions for the next turn after you make the turn instead of fumbling in your pocket before the turn. <S> Something you're going to hold in your hand can be printed smaller than something that's going on the handlebars. <S> Look for a "map case". <S> This is a flat bag that attached on the handlebars somehow with one side all transparent. <S> Example <S> Commonly available for 10-20 USD. <S> Make your own map case. <S> A gallon (4 liter) <S> ziploc bag will let you show almost a full size piece of paper. <S> Use some binder clips or something like that to attach it. <S> While not smaller, you might mind the size less if it fits your cellphone, some snacks, etc... <A> There's nothing like the machine above available for bikes that I'm aware of. <S> That holder looks pretty nifty, if heavy. <S> Before I got an Ortlieb map case, I made my own map holders with office supplies: Plastic sheet protectors, duct tape, and velcro (to keep it on the handlebar). <S> I experimented with using a paper clip on the side to mark my place, but it turned out to be just as much work to fiddle with the paper clip as it was to just find my place. <S> Freiheit's point about bicycle travel being slower is a good one. <S> Generally, you don't need to think more than two or three turns ahead on a bike, and usually just one or two. <S> For some time, I was using text output from Bikely and pasting it into a spreadsheet, where I could manipulate the columns, format the text, and print out cue sheets on any size paper I needed; I usually made a map holder every few months, and would often improve the design to be simpler. <S> The best ones used 8 1/2" wide paper, requiring less trimming on my part. <S> (That's what the Ortlieb holder uses.) <S> The scroll-style cue sheet seen above looks pretty handy, but I suspect that making one for a bicycle would be more trouble than its worth; you'd have to tape pieces of paper together to make the cur sheet. <S> When I had access to a laminating machine, I used it to make half-sheet (8.5x5.5) <S> cue sheets that I could swap out in the rain. <S> Jury-rigged cue sheet holder: <S> Cue sheet I wrote up on the road in a bike shop, using the back of a "real" cue sheet:
|
Get a handlebar bag that has a map case on top.
|
How to clean consumable metallic parts cheaply while touring? By the term consumable metallic parts I mean things such as derailleur pulleys, chains and cassettes. I have met tourers that suggested me cooking oil for cleaning the metallic parts, more here . The irony is that this frugal question ignited the tip but I am starting to feel cooking oil is not necessarily frugal, the oil is binned at the end (loss). My answer contains a cleaning way for about 0.1-0.5EUR. So how can I clean the parts more cheaply? Related cooking oil used to clean chains -answer here substitutes for chain lubricants -question here <Q> The most frugal is not to intensively clean these parts except at the end of the tour when you overhaul your bike. <S> Simply brushing off the dirt with a cleaning brush, toothbrush, or rag and relubricating with a good dry lube will get you most of the benefits with little of the mess. <S> And it’s a lighter kit. <S> You don’t need a spotless bike. <A> Kerosene isn't bad... <S> Low flash point and reasonably safe. <S> (BBQ starter fluid) <S> I admit I've used gasoline... <S> It's a wonderful solvent. <S> I don't smoke... <A> You can see below how I cleaned my cassette with grocery store stuff like cooking oil and hand-cleaner. <S> It worked very well <S> but I used about 0.2-0.5 liter cooking oil, material cost perhaps 0.1-0.5EUR <S> (but very dirty cassette <S> and I think I could use less). <S> This brush was going to bin, reuse at the best. <S> Cost = 0. <S> The other side of the brush is hacked to clean some in-between parts, you need a knife for it, again cost = 0. <S> I used also a braking cable to some parts. <S> I used a braking cable to get the dirt between the cogs and other places, worked well, needless to buy expensive Par. <S> * plastic things. <S> Picture before final cleaning where it became like new but good comparison to new one. <S> Sorry different products actually, the old cassette is done with dimmer metal and a bit heavier. <S> On the surface, you can see the cooking oil. <S> Cleaning the cooking oil off can be a hurdle, you don't want it while riding because it will go rancid more here . <S> If your hands stand or you have hand-protections, you may want to try cloth-cleaning-stuff, cheap bulk grocery store stuff. <S> But if you cannot take the cooking oil off, even with hand-cleaner, cloth-cleaner, running water and brushing, for some odd reason you may want to try the petroleum products suggested by this answer . <S> I have never used petroleum products but they should work but maybe too expensive in your location. <S> Cooking oil has transformed the initial salty-dirty-bad-stuff to easier cooking-oil-mess. <S> I am still uncertain to which extent the cooking oil can be bad to the chain particularly if left rancid, perhaps no worry at all if you can take the most of it out and perhaps it will go out when you ride some kms, anyway working well for me. <A> I did the same that I do at home, I used diesel and a rag. <S> If there's residue, it won't wash away much lubricant, as diesel is an oil itself (a pretty light one). <S> It'll work well along oily lubricants. <S> If instead you're using wax, I think you might want to reapply the wax at the end of the first day. <S> At home I reuse the dirty diesel after it's been decanting (sitting) for a few days: a couple liters will last you for years. <S> When touring I try to burn it. <S> Diesel is available anywhere, but it might be difficult to find a place that only sells you half a liter. <S> You might ask some motorist or trucker to spill a little bit for you, or you might otherwise go looking for a bottle of kerosene if you're not too deep in the woods (that stuff is even better at cleaning).Cheers
|
I have tried it and it is a bit more effective to hand-cleaner stuff to take the oil out, particularly with running hot water.
|
Adjusting rear derailleur - shifts to lower gear, but not to higher Well, it will shift to a higher gear, but it takes two clicks of the shifter and it skips over a gear when it does shift. With one click the chain hangs on the current gear by the slimmest if threads. It's quite amazing really. This is a new derailleur, a Shimano RD-M410 Alivio SGS, on a cog set that predates index shifting. Could that be the problem? I have tried adjusting the barrel adjuster, but that doesn't seem to have any effect (on this problem). Also, I put bar-end shifters on the bike, so the cable seems a bit short. Edit The cog set has 7 gears, but the shifter has 8. Thanks. <Q> Perhaps your shifter cable can't slide smoothly. <S> Shift to the tallest gear (smallest cog). <S> Pop the shifter housing out of the brazed-on stops. <S> Slide the housing back and forth and look for stiffness. <S> Put some lube in the housing and slide it back and forth to distribute it. <S> Perhaps your derailleur hanger is bent. <S> A bike shop will have a tool to easily check its alignment. <S> If either of these is a factor, then you will never be able to adjust your shifting properly. <A> I suggest starting from scratch. <S> First,shift onto the highest(smallest) cog and release the cable from the DR (derailleur). <S> Hold the end of the cable and make sure it's moving positively each time you operate the shifter. <S> If that's the case, make sure you've moved the shifter back to it's highest-gear position and re-attach. <S> Make sure there is no slack in the cable at this point... <S> It should feel taut but not tight when pulled away from the frame. <S> Now, cycle the shifter through it's travel; it should be very close at this point. <S> If there is any hesitation in jumping from one cog to another, you should tighten the barrel adjuster just a quarter turn or so at a time till you get clean shifts. <S> I'm going to assume at this point that being a new-ish bike, the stop screws on the DR do not need to be adjusted. <S> Naturally, if the chain falls off either end of the cassette that's not the case... <S> Oh, while you're down there, make sure the DR hanger (the little bit sticking from the frame that the DR screws into) is straight. <S> Sometimes those replaceable aluminum hangers are very soft and bend easily. <A> Does it solidly engage in the cogs on either end of that mis-shift? <S> It sounds plainly to be like a mis-indexed cable. <S> You should be able to shift into that 'barely-not-shifting' position and then loosen the barrel adjuster to cause it to index into place. <S> If that's not happening, your barrel adjuster may have stripped threads. <A> If you're using 8-speed bar end shifters with a 7-speed casette, I have an alternate solution for you. <S> Many bar end shifters (for the rear derailleur only) can be switched from indexed mode to friction mode. <S> That would allow you to shift smoothly without any peculiar cable routings. <S> If your shifter does this, it will have a screw (typically with a handle) just on the left side. <S> Unscrew it a few turns <S> and you will notice the shifter indexing gets "softer". <S> After about 3-5 full turns the indexing should disappear completely and the lever action becomes smooth. <S> Instant friction shifter! <S> (should work with any number of rear cogs) <A> How much clearance do you have between the top pulley on the derailleur and the cogs? <S> It's unlikely to happen on all cogs, but if there's not enough clearance between cog and pulley <S> you won't be able to shift down. <S> You will usually hear the pulley running along the cassette when this happens. <S> This is usually fixed by removing a link from your chain. <S> But the above answers are much more likely to fix your problem. <S> Broadly, if there's too much friction in the cable the spring in the derailleur won't be powerful enough to shift properly. <S> Fix it by putting lightweight lube in the cable (solvent-based chain lube works well), or installing new cable and housing. <S> Often this would also happen with a worn out derailleur, but since yours is new that's not the case.
|
You can test for this by pulling the derailleur out while shifting, and if the extra force from your hand makes it shift then this is the issue.
|
Disc brakes squeak on Trek mountain bike I have a Trek 3900 mountain bike with disc brakes, and I just took it out of winter storage to start riding it for the season. Everything works well, except for one very annoying problem: when I stop the disc brakes make an extremely loud obnoxious squealing sound. Any ideas of what is causing this? Thanks <Q> The easy thing to check is whether the pads have got a little damp while you weren't riding it. <S> The solution there is to ride it a bit. <S> If the noise bothers you try riding with the brake slightly on to heat it up. <S> Unfortunately that conflicts with the other problem: if there's oil on the rotor you should clean it immediately and avoid using the brake until you can clean it (to avoid getting oil in the pads because they're hard to clean). <S> Wipe the rotor with either disk cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth. <S> Keep doing that with new solvent and new cloth until no further dirt comes off the rotor. <S> Then take a quick test ride, using the brake. <S> Ideally pedal hard with the brake on, so you heat the pads and rotor (and also get an idea of whether the brake works). <S> Remember that riding with the brakes on heats up the rotors - be careful touching them immediately afterwards. <S> Wipe the rotor with a clean cloth to remove any pad goop. <S> If there was no squeal last summer the alignment should be fine. <S> The way to check is to look at the gaps between the pas an rotors. <S> Check from a couple of different angles, the pad should be parallel to the rotor from all angles. <S> If it's not try squeezing the lever - some pads pull slightly off angle when they come off the disk. <S> If all else fails buy new pads, clean the rotors then install the new pads. <S> Remember that the new pads will need a little running in. <A> Check the pads. <S> You just might have some oil or moisture there. <S> Clean the rotors, too. <S> If that doesn't help, you can try replacing the pads, but in my experience if your pads are clean and you're still getting noise from disc brakes, your caliper might need realignment. <A> When I had similar problem, I rode to the dealers of my bike and they told me that the reason is my pads. <S> Before, I changed the wheel and made any mistake when I set it back. <S> Workers have eliminated this trouble very quickly and cheaply
|
Cleaning them with a bit of rubbing alcohol or a specific disc brake cleaner might clear it up for you.
|
What should I expect from a GPS logging device? During the last years I do a lot of mountain biking tours. To record this tours I currently use my Android phone and a GPS tracker application. I'm happy with it, but the problem is, the battery life is not long enough for whole day trips. So I thought about buying a real GPS tracker device. I don't want to use navigation or routing but just tracking. So my problem is, I don't really know what are the important technical specifications I should look for. For example: Is it important how many Gps points a device can store? I read values between 10'000 and 20'000 but how many do I need? There are lot of similar questions like the kind of GPS module, the method to define the height, etc. I need the device for my mountain biking tours. This means no cities or things like that, almost all offrode. The duration can vary from 1 hour to the whole day, but I don't think it is a problem if I have to reload in the evening. <Q> I had a small tracker for a while and <S> after faffing with it for a while sold it on eBay. <S> So I may not be the best person to answer. <S> But here goes. <S> You need to decide on the basic parameters: <S> what is the longest ride you want to log? <S> (distance) <S> how long will that take? <S> (time) <S> how often do you need to log? <S> (I find that every 10m is necessary in urban areas because there are often a lot of route choices, 100m is fine for offroad and every few kilometres is ok for touring). <S> That tells you how much battery life you need and how many data points you have to store. <S> I'd expect that the data points answer will be less than 10k. <S> What ended up killing the idea for me was the lack of display on the thing. <S> I wanted to be able to see how much battery life and memory it had left without plugging it into a computer. <S> It couldn't do that. <S> edit: for single-day use note that there are only 80k seconds in a day, and most small loggers need a second or so to take a reading. <S> So a 30k point GPS could log every single second you were on your bike each day. <S> More reasonably, logging every 10 seconds means at most 8600 points in 24 hours. <S> So a 10k point logger will be fine. <S> I think more important points will be GPS reliability, robustness and how waterproof it is. <S> If you have to tape an antenna to the top of your helmet to get reliable reception that will suck, and likewise if it stops working because you went over a bump or through a creek. <S> So I suggest looking at those features rather than focussing on battery life or data points. <S> Work out where you want to mount it and run from there <S> (in a backpack is quite different from in a pannier or handlebar bar, and different again from under the seat or on the handlebars. <A> You might also consider buying external battery for you Android phone. <S> I do not want to reccomend anything as I have not tried it, so here is plain Google search on topic . <S> Of course, it will add weight to your backpack. <A> Only advice I can give is not to buy the Garmin 405. <S> It gets 6 hours of battery life if I'm lucky (and has a ton of other usability and quality issues). <S> Then again, it's designed to be lightweight, mostly for runners. <S> You can probably afford a little more weight on your bike tours.
|
Battery life is what mattered to me in the end - I was uploading every few days and recharging when I did it.
|
iPhone app to follow/navigate an imported .gpx Is there an iPhone app that allows one to follow an imported .gpx track, in a car navigation-like way? The apps I found so far, like Trails, can only display the track on a map. What I am looking for is a "download-and-forget" experience for my bike trips. I want to import a track and just look at my iPhone to tell me in which direction is the next waypoint, or how can I get back on track if I get lost. <Q> http://www.motionx.com/ is the closest I've seen. <S> You can set it's map to show track up as you ride. <S> It doesn't know where the roads are though, nor zoom in or out depending on your speed, nor show upcoming turns. <S> NOTE <S> As of 2019, this app is now end-of-lifed. <S> It was great while it lasted. <A> After several years, many new options for on the bike, turn-by-turn navigation have appeared. <S> These are some of them: Komoot RideWithGPS Changing my accepted answer to this one, to reflect the current state of the art. <A> Co-Rider app can follow a GPX file from your dropbox account and it also integrates with Ride with GPS for easy access to your saved routes. <S> Voice navigation is available, and I've found it useful. <S> https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/co-rider/id538095358?mt=8
|
You can also drop pins and get directions to random points as well.
|
Mount additional water bottle on bike frame with only one water bottle mount I only have one set of water bottle mount screws on my bike. I would like to have an additional water bottle. Ideally I would like to mount the bottle on the frame (preferably on the vertical tube). Bonus: Can I order/build in Canada? <Q> Get yourself two hose clamps that'll fit around the tube and some rubber strips to put under then <S> so they don't scratch the paint up too badly. <S> They'll hold a bottle cage on just fine. <S> If you can see under the dirt and grime, that's exactly how the bottle cage in this picture is mounted: <S> Edit: <S> Here's another picture of a bottle cage mounted with hose clamps (not mine). <A> The Twofish Quick Cage has worked well for me. <S> Not terribly pricey, and easy to reposition as needed. <S> Not as secure as the hose clamp solution, however. <A> I know this isn't what you asked, but have you considered a Camelbak ? <A> Are you only considering a frame mount? <S> In addition, if the frame is all that you'll consider, there are a number of options for "clamp-type" water bottle systems . <S> You didn't mention, but if you have a carbon frame you'll need to choose an appropriate clamp so as not to damage the frame. <S> Not sure if you use a seat bag? <S> An option is to switch from a seat bag to a dual-mount seat-rail water bottle cage; and then, carry your extras in something like this, http://www.amazon.com/Tacx-Tool-Tube-Storage-Bottle/dp/B002SR0JRM and if you're frugal, a water bottle could be cut-down for the purpose. <A> I've been facing the same issue, trying to mount an additional bottle cage to the underside of the downtube on my mountain bike. <S> I haven't settled on one particular solution yet, but I found this site helpful as it outlines various different solutions: http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/ <A> As a Strida owner, I've struggled with exactly this problem. <S> It's not always <S> I like to carry a bottle, <S> so I really like the fact that I just remove the whole thing in a split second. <A> Another option is to fit additional threaddd mounts to your frame. <S> This works fine if your frame is steel , but I wouldn't try this on a carbon or aluminium frame. <S> The threaded insert is called a rivnut or a nutsert and looks like this: You would drill two holes in your steel frame barely big enough for the OD of your nuts, press the nuts into place, and then use a rivnut tool or a suitably-threaded nut and bolt to crush the rivet part closed. <S> The thread is 5 x 0.8mm and is the same as your normal water bottle mount bolts, and coincidentally many wheel skewers too. <S> Epoxy or JB Weld would be a good idea too to help stabilise the insert. <S> You can also hire rivnut tools from hire companies - they're not cheap. <A> On a carbon frame I used cheap Zefal Gizmo mounts for attaching kit the way it was intended. <S> Below you can see it carrying a Kryptonite Modulus lock on my bike <S> but you can obviously attach a bottle cage or whatever and <S> wherever you like. <S> I did 100s of miles with it without any issue. <S> I'm not sure if the mounts came with rubber strips as you can see on the picture. <S> I may have used some spare ones from cycle light mounts for extra grip and protection. <S> You could cut out such strips from an old tube.
|
If not, there are options for mounting a cage on the seat rails , seat post , and handlebars . I went with the KLICKFix solution, and couldn't be more pleased.
|
Will regular removal, cleaning and re-placing of my chain weaken or damage it? When I'm cleaning my bike, the quickest way to degrease my chain is to remove it and degrease it in a small tub. Will constant removal / re-adding to the bike cause damage? I don't have a quick release chain. <Q> Depends on the chain. <S> If it's a chain with cylindrical pins (most singlespeed and some narrow chains) then the damage will be negligible. <S> Even if you always use the same pin you should be fine the first 10 or so times. <S> So you'll be limited to about 100 chain-cleanings before your chain is entirely made of replacement pins. <S> And you will have spent more than the cost of a new chain buying pins. <S> There's two things to look for: damage to the side plates, especially dishing around the pin; and a pin that is too easy to remove (it's loose). <S> Either means you're likely to have the chain fail in use. <S> Replace that link. <S> The easy way is to buy a quick release link and use that. <S> They're generally only good for 20-50 open/close cycles, but the failure mode is that they become steadily easier to open, making it easy to tell when you need to replace them. <S> And they're fairly cheap - typically $5 or so each, compared to about $1 for a single-use replacement pin. <A> Pushing pins out and then jamming them back in are bound to cause a certain amount of strain on the links. <S> Buy a connector link and replace one of your links with it, creating a "quick release" chain. <S> Make sure that you get a link that is the same width as your chain. <S> Even better, buy a few of them. <S> I actually keep one with me, that way if I break a chain it makes repairs so much easier. <A> you can clean the chain without release it, use chain cleaner for it, you can rotate your crank and clean the chain. <S> You will damage the pin if you release it everytime you clean the chain...
|
If it's a chain with profiled pins you'll need to use a new replacement pin every time and the replacements can't readily be removed (doing so damages the side plates).
|
Mapping the most gentle route for my single speed I commute to work on a single-speed road bike, so it's a lot easier if I avoid any steep hills (preferring to cover the same gradient gradually). Taking a look at a map, there are seemingly 3-4 sensible routes to get from point A to point B. Short of trying them all, is there any way to evaluate which has the most gradual climb? <Q> That's 4 days to evaluate all the routes. <S> I'd just ride them. <S> You can spend a lot of time with mapping tools trying to evaluate gradients and still get it wrong. <S> Unless you can find a cycling guide that discusses the issue you will almost certainly not get a good answer. <S> For a motor transport engineer (the people who design roads) anything under 1:10 is fine on a minor road, 1:20 on a major road. <S> They just don't care about short steep sections vs long gentle sections. <S> The flattest route could easily be the one where you come out of a compulsory stop onto a short steep section that climbs less than the 5m interval between contours on a most-detailed map. <S> Look at the angle between the street and the vertical walls or horizontal floors. <S> That will give you a rough idea of the slope of the road at each point. <A> A lot of the online mapping websites have elevation data you can use to figure it out. <S> Example 1 <S> : Go to http://maps.google.com/ choose the bicycle icon and ask for directions. <S> Once it gives you the map, switch to the "map" instead of satellite view and turn on the terrain overlay. <S> When you ask for bicycle directions it tries to avoid steep climbs and the terrain data overlay <S> can give you some idea how bad things are. <S> You can drag points on the route to force it into giving you a specific route. <S> Example 2 <S> : Go to http://www.mapmyride.com/ -- go through the annoying interface to create a new ride <S> (there's some annoying ad stuff). <S> Once you've done that, you can see some data including a graph of the climbs. <S> Do that for all the routes and compare side by side. <S> There's a lot of competing websites for that kind of thing that you can search for out there. <A> A very good solution is Google Earth . <S> If you create a route (either create one or get a recorded track from a GPS device), you can see it's elevation profile <S> (right click on the route and "Show Elevation Profile"): <S> The profiling is interactive and linked to the map, so you can easily see where the "problem" (eg too high elevation) is on the map and modify your track accordingly. <A> Strava has a fantastic route planning tool for both running and biking, including an option to minimize elevation gain. <S> Their app is also great for tracking your activity, and integrates with many other tools. <S> For one of my routes, compare: to this easier route without the climb: <S> Playing with waypoints can sometimes improve results - moving my endpoint over half a block can shift the routing to several of the east-west roads to get around a small hill. <A> Do you have access to an elevation map of the area? <S> I believe on that type of map, the closer together the lines are, the steeper the grade. <A> You could try ridewithgps . <S> It's fairly simple. <S> You go to this site and plot out a route(s) on the map. <S> As you create the route you'll get a graphic of the elevation profile below the map. <A> Try this it is the best <S> I have seen.http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/. <S> Neil: <S> yes of course. <S> The website allows you to actually map the route and works out the road stuff for you so you can just work out the main points rather than every time it changes direction. <S> Also it does all the height stuff and a text print out. <S> Remember in the UK <S> we do not have bike on google maps. <A> You might want to try bbbike.org , a cycle route planner based on OpenStreetMap <S> data that I only discovered recently. <S> Other than standard Google routing <S> (that in some countries doesn't provide detailed settings for cyclists), it allows to set precise preferences for the planning, for example only residential roads, or roads suitable for road bikes. <S> After calculating the route, it returns the average run time, directions, a simple height profile, an interactive map and downloadable tracks in various formats that can be imported into Google Earth. <S> From there you can follow Czechnology's answer. <A> If you want the best of all of these just put your route on mycycletour.com. <S> It will give you the elevation profile, and also run a streetview movie of the journey so you can see how steep the hills are.
|
One electronic solution would be to use google streetview to survey each route.
|
How can I improve my stamina? Generally I'm doing a lot of sports, (volleyball, hiking, soccer, swimming, etc.) and while hiking I have no problem to do 3000 meters or more in a day (uphill ;)) but when I go mountain-biking I have some problems. I can cycle the first 500-600 altitude difference more or less in a normal speed (~1 hour), but afterwards if I should cycle further I'm exhausted. So whats the best way to improve my stamina? Should I practice every day a little bit? Or is it better to sometimes go for long tours? <Q> The best book I've found on the subject is: The Time-Crunched Cyclist: Fit, Fast, and Powerful in 6 Hours a Week by Chris Carmichael . <S> The book includes a lot of info on lactate threshold, energy metabolism, nutrition, race and century training plans, etc. <S> I first tried out his methods after reading one of his articles in Bicycling Magazine on century training prior to the release of The Time Crunched Cyclist . <S> Basically, Carmichael's methods are a form of interval training where you are doing things like hill-repeats, power intervals, fast pace intervals, etc. <S> There's a lot of info out there on interval training. <S> One of the more common is called HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training). <S> Another resource relating to interval training is here on Dr. Mirkin's web site where he discusses how sprinting improves endurance. <S> FWIW - I've made interval training my primary method of training for long distance riding. <S> I do multiple centuries during the summers and rarely do training rides over 60 miles. <S> Prior to 4 years ago, my mode of training for long distance was a gradual distance build-up and had mixed results. <S> With interval training, my performance on long distance rides has improved significantly in both speed and how I feel afterwards. <S> Seriously, this plan works. <S> And...related: <S> What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing? <A> The climbing that kills me when mtbing are the explosive short climbs, not the long grinds. <S> If that is the case with you, I would suggest some sort of interval training. <S> This sort of training should help your recovery speed. <S> Also, make sure that you are taking nutrients in while exercising. <S> Low to moderate exertions can be fueled by body fat, but high intensity needs to tap into your carbo reserves, and I find that mine get depleted quickly without having some sort of replacement ready. <A> wdypdx22's "HITT" or "interval training" might be what a nutritionist who I talked to called Fartlek training , in case you want to Google that term too. <S> afterwards if I should cycle further <S> I'm exhausted <S> I don't know that it's good, nor even possible, to 'train' when you're 'exhausted'? <S> So, why are you exhausted, and how to avoid it: perhaps you need to rehydrate or to refuel, perhaps on the fly; or perhaps your 'normal speed' for the first hour needs to be slower/easier (even for the fittest <S> , the 'normal speed' for a sprint isn't the same as for a marathon). <S> Apparently a 180 lb cyclist at 12 mph (on the flat, presumably) burns about 500 calories/hour. <S> FWIW <S> I've been cycling for a bit over an hour twice a day, 3-5 days/week for the last month (after eating, so I don't run out of fuel on the way). <S> And I haven't been pushing myself too hard (e.g. I'm using low gears when I get to a hill) because I don't want to strain my knees: <S> and I'm sure I'm getting stronger/more enduring. <S> If strength is about increasing muscle, perhaps endurance is about increasing vascularisation. <S> Apparently when you exercise your "VO2max" i.e. the rate at which you can burn/use/take in oxygen increases, and that's partly because you get more capillaries <S> (I imagine, I don't know, that it's blood vessels that were previously too small to be effective that increase to meet the demand ... perhaps it's new vessels too); maybe that (growth and change in tissues) can't happen overnight. <S> So whats the best way to improve my stamina? <S> Should I practice every day a little bit? <S> Or is it better to sometimes go for long tours? <S> Apparently someone once asked a champion whether it's better, in a race, to push hard and slowly in a high gear, or to spin more easily and quickly in a lower gear: and he thought about that and said, "It's better to push hard and quickly in a high gear." <S> Similarly (and here again, I'm guessing) <S> improving stamina might not be to do with practicing either often or for a longer time, but both. <A> Are you eating while you ride? <S> Consuming carbs in a sports drink? <S> If not, you're probably bonking due to lack of sugars after your glycogen reserves are depleted. <S> If it seems like you just hit a wall at the same time each time you ride, be sure to Eat before your ride, and during to maintain fuel for your muscles. <S> I'll usually throw in a cliff bar or something every 8 or 10 miles of singletrack. <S> Less frequently on a road bike. <S> But after a few good steep climbs, I make sure I get some calories (even though I'm not hungry), to keep my energy level up.
|
One of the best ways to build stamina is through interval training.
|
Will cycling off-the-trainer with the trainer's steel skewer damage my bike? I recently bought a cyclops trainer. It is annoying to switch the skewers. I know the steel skewer that came with the trainer is heavier and stronger, but I don't know if it will damage my bicycle off of the trainer. I do know that riding on the trainer with my normal skewer will wreck the normal ones. <Q> I assume you mean the quick release skewer and the answer is no, well at least not in my experience. <S> I've spent a few years riding on the training skewer from my Tacx trainer and had no issues outside of the visual detraction of a silver skewer on black rims/wheels. <A> The skewer which comes with a trainer is mecahnically and functionally identical to the one that came on your bike, with the exception of the shape of the "heads" on the trainer skewer. <S> It is actually identical to one of the original skewer designs. <S> The reason that one comes with the trainer is because most bike manufacturers have changed the shape of the skewer "heads" that come on the bike to be more aesthetically pleasing. <S> With the side effect that the skewer that comes on your bike is unlikely to fit securely into the clamp mount on your trainer. <A> I have ridden several thousand km on the road with my trainer's steel skewer, QR and nut in use on an aluminum frame with no problems at all. <S> For training the weight just doesn't matter... <S> realistically this is an aesthetic choice. <S> There was a time when all these parts would have been steel. <S> Note if you ride in the rain your steel bits may corrode. <A> I do have reservations in using trainer skewer for outdoor rides. <S> My Elite Trainer Skewer is so easy to unlock, no matter how hard I tighten it. <S> Just a little bit of pressure with just one finger is enough unlock the lever. <S> This can be dangerous, if your lever is unlocked by some object along the road.
|
No, using a "trainer" skewer on the road has no negative impact on your bike or safety.
|
Why aren't sportive' 'bikes popular outside the UK? I recently bought a 'sportive' bike , i.e. very much like a road bike but with a taller head tube to give a slightly more upright, more relaxed, less 'heads-down' riding position, and a triple chainset rather than a compact double. I think this is a great bike (I'm not telling you its make or model as I don't want to discuss the pros and cons of this specific bike), but the US-based manufacturer produced it in 2010 only. I happened to meet a UK-based employee of theirs at the weekend who told me although this bike was designed specifically for the UK market, its (worldwide) sales turned out to be too small to justify continued production. This surprises me, as I have the impression that only a small proportion of the (lower-end) road bikes sold are ever used for road racing or time trialling, with more used for fitness and day rides, including the sportive events that give this style its name, and that this style of bike is ideally suited to such uses. Can anyone explain why such bikes aren't popular outside the UK? <Q> That site's basic definition of sportive boils down to: more upright riding position more comfortable for distance riding longer chainstays, taller head tube softer forks (though many brands have gone to carbon forks across the board) yet still with drop handlebars and quality components <S> And I think nearly every brand in the US has entries in that realm, though they often call them things like "endurance / sport / performance" as compared to "race / competition". <S> Of course their race models often extend up into exotic carbon frames and top-end component groups, where sport models may only go up to basic carbon frames and mid-level groupos. <S> Some examples (aluminum frames): Brand sport geometry race geometry----- <S> -------------- <S> -------------Cannondale <S> Synapse <S> CAAD 10Felt Z series F seriesGiant Defy TCR Specialized <S> Secteur AllezTrek ? <S> 2 series <S> These are all drop-bar road bikes, but the first column has a little more forgiving ride for long distances, while the last column has racier / faster handling. <S> But both kinds are raceable if you want <S> (they're not all that far apart). <S> Both can usually be had with your choice of triple or compact double crank gears; a standard double seems more available in race models. <A> Simple answer is, they are. <S> See the Scott CR1, the Trek Pilot, the Specialized Roubaix, and a dozen similar bikes marketed, and very popular all over the world. <S> All are Sportive style bikes, marketed under their own local market category names. <A> My suspicion is that you're missing some search terms or the manufacturer is missing a marketing opportunity. <S> Or perhaps their bike is not what that market is after. <S> I suggest looking at <S> randonneur and audax <S> rides as well as sportive to get a feel for just how many of those riders are out there. <S> In my experience a lot of commuters ride upright bikes that are not racing bikes. <S> There's everything from drop bar touring bikes like the Long Haul Trucker (with or without the short stem/long steerer combo) through to the very common flat bar road bike (usually with the short top tube, long chainstay combo <S> your salesperson is so fond of). <S> It's more likely that the randonneur market is so specialised that it's impossible to target as a single entity, so the bike fell through the gaps. <S> If you got yours cheap because the manufacturer couldn't sell them but it suits you perfectly, then well done, you got a bargain. <A> In recent years, we've seen a lot of bikes which are set up to cater to the increasingly-older market. <S> Where you once had "hybrid" bikes (a road frame with MTB components) <S> you now have "fitness" and "comfort" bikes which tend to have an upright riding position, cushy saddles, and some sort of minimal suspension. <S> There have always been subdivisions in roadsters... <S> I currently ride a vintage 1972 "Cilo/Swiss" roadster which was obviously not intended for fast or sporty riding, yet it has a Columbus double-butted frame and Shimano 600 components... <S> Pretty high-end for what you'd think was intended as a commuter.
|
So 'sportive' bikes are available in the US, just by different names. Claiming that the ¨sportive" bike is somehow special because it has those features suggests ignorance rather than a giant gulf in the market that somehow everyone else has missed. Basically it comes down to "comfort geometry not race geometry"; components, materials, and even gearing choices are often similar or identical.
|
Rack (& Pannier) for a bike with disc brakes I'd like to get a rack for my bike ( Haibike Land ). The problem is that the bottom screws are blocked by the disc brake: (If it is not obvious from the photo, the brake and its mounting screws are in the way of the rack.) Are there any solutions for this problem? In my LBS they just told me that bikes with disc brakes are not meant to have racks (although they've told me this after telling me it should fit fine and ordering it). But I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue. I've thought I could put some washer or spacer there but I'm a bit worried about the torque caused by such solution. EDIT To clear things up, here is the side photo (from bottom in the direction of the saddle): <Q> 2019 Update Racks specifically designed for bikes with Disc brakes have become much more common. <S> It shouldn't be hard to find something now. <S> Original <S> 2011 answer <S> I think the LBS is partially correct, that bikes with disc brakes aren't generally designed to hold a rack. <S> That said, I think there's a few solutions (other than getting a bike built to have disc brakes and a rack): <S> mounted rack. <S> Downsides: very low weight limit, often not good at holding panniers, and probably prone to spinning around. <S> Use "p-clamps" instead of the built-in holes. <S> These are rubber-covered clamps that would go around the seat <S> stays to give you a hole for a rack up above the problematic disc brake stuff. <S> This is more usually done on bikes that simply don't have a place to bolt anything on. <S> Downsides: may put the rack too far up, may put the rack too far forward, may slide, may not be as strong. <S> Spacers and a longer bolt with a somewhat wide rack. <S> So that the rack's stays run to the outside of the brake hardware. <S> It seems to me that too much weight would tend to try to bend the bolts down and the holes up. <S> I don't know the right term, but it might be possible to find a metal piece that screws into both of those holes and gives you a new hole behind that location. <S> I've seen some racks mounted like that to get the rack back further for more heel clearance. <S> The one I found first ( http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_discMount ) basically has the spacer I suggest in #3 built in. <S> The second one I found ( http://www.tubus.com/en/rear-carriers/disco ) basically comes into the holes from behind instead of directly above, like I suggest in #4. <S> A rack specifically designed to mount on a bike with disc brakes would be best, of course. <S> The other options might be cheaper. <A> Get a disc-compatible rack. <S> Two excellent options are the Old Man Mountain racks and the Tubus Disco . <S> A long bolt with spacers can also be made to work, but you'll want to use a high-quality stainless bolt, keep the weight minimal (less than 15kg) and probably carry a spare bolt along as well. <A> One interesting solution I've found (haven't tested it though): Freeload rack Should be able to hold up to 25 kg according to the manufacturer. <S> Has anybody seen this in action? <A> You can get some spacers, but you wouldn't be able to safely put much weight on it. <S> Probably not much more weight than you could using a seatpost mounted rack. <S> You're pretty much out of luck. <S> What the LBS guys said is correct concerning most disc braked bikes. <S> There are bicycles that have disc brakes that are intended to have racks. <S> For example, I have a salsa fargo, which is such a bike. <S> However, the Fargo, and other similar bikes, mount the disc brake caliper in the rear triangle.
|
There are racks made to go on bikes with disc brakes. Would be much better if you could find a rack that could use both holes. Get a seat-post (or similar)
|
What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle? What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle, as opposed to owning a bicycle? I can think of several: They are lighter and smaller than bikes Easier to maintain, fewer moving parts They provide good practice for balancing <Q> Presumably a 50% reduction in punctures? <A> I commuted to university on one for that reason - I could ride into my lectures :) <S> For a while <S> anyway, there's the "Moz Memorial Rule Against Unicycles" now. <S> Balance skills are useful to have, and the entertainment value of a unicycle should not be ignored. <S> Both in the "I'm waiting, I know, I'll practice stairs" and the "look at me, put money in my hat" senses. <S> For commuting I found a 26" <S> was ideal as a compromise between speed and size, although I ended up using a 20" a lot just for easy of parking. <S> If I could have got the Schlumpf hub it would have been perfect. <A> From an exercise standpoint, a unicycle works a much different set of muscles than a bicycle. <S> You use a lot more core strength to maintain balance and steer. <A> I mix it with our trains and buses without restrictions (we have public transport policy that separates unis from bikes). <S> I commonly put it in the back of the car when I go somewhere with my wife that is not parking friendly. <S> I can carry the thing through shops and malls without any issues. <S> It is easily stored under my desk at work. <S> It is fine in winter if you have end-of-trip faciliities, better in fact than when I was capable of riding a bike. <A> Impressing your friends with your awesome skills should you master the thing? <S> Potential work in the circus field?Vast improvement in balance? <S> On the downside... <S> Lost skin, closer relations with your orthopedic man... <S> Good luck! <S> I've always been rather balance-challenged. <A> More fun. <S> I've ridden a uni for 30 year, and it feels like skiing or skating. <S> Biking, for me anyway, is just boring. <S> Also, in regard to another post, unis now-a-days do have disc brakes. <A> Good for your posture and lower back <S> I would have thought as you're engaging those muscles in order to balance.
|
A unicycle is almost the ultimate cross-mode transport system. One less obvious advantage is that they are not a bicycle, legally speaking. So while you can't ride on the road in most places, you can take one on public transport and into buildings etc. They work a different set of muscles, and train a differet set of reflexes.
|
Back wheel skidding out On my cycle to work this morning I noticed my back wheel was skidding out as I was going up a fairly steep hill. It did it enough that I thought I'd probably gotten a flat, however upon inspection it seemed fine. I'm a bit of newbie (perhaps done 25 rides on my new-ish road bike) - am I right in thinking my back tire maybe just needs a bit more air in it? It seemed pretty pressurised although some of the bumps I went over today seemed a bit more more shocking than normal. Are there some other things I should look for? I wasn't turning very hard at all when it lost traction. Cheers,John. Update - details here: http://www.sportstracklive.com/track/detail/johnhunt/Cycling/159913 Update2: Yes, I do wear cycling shoes that clip into the pedals, and it did happen at a particularly steep point on the hill. I guess I ought to try and stay seated a bit more - just after the previous two hills it's a lot easier to attack up the last one. <Q> Check the tyre pressure anyway. <S> You should be within the limits printed on the tyre. <S> I would be a little surprised if low pressure caused sliding, normally it's high pressure on a rough surface that causes your wheel to skip across the top of the bumps and move sideways when it's airbourne between bumps. <S> In that case lifting your bodyweight slightly with your legs can help soak up the bumps and increase traction. <S> But if you were unweighting the rear wheel by standing and pedalling hard that's not too unusual. <S> Try to avoid it by pedalling more smoothly, ideally from the saddle. <S> edit: at that speed I think it's just basic bike handling skills. <S> As you ride more that will be both less likely to happen and bother you less when it does. <S> It might help to play on gravel a bit (possibly on a MTB or old bike). <S> If you really want to push that along either mountain biking or bike polo are good ways to improve your bike handling. <A> It's unusual to break your tires loose on pavement, but it happens all the time on mountain bikes. <S> If this is happening on pavement, I suspect you're standing and perhaps leaning pretty far forward? <S> This, coupled with insufficient tire pressure (and low gears) might cause a lack of traction. <S> Normally, when climbing steep hills in the standing position, you'd want to shift "up" a couple of gears. <A> This little article on skid stops implies you're strong enough to skid your rear wheel: especially if you're bouncing; and perhaps even more so if your bike has gears. <S> Are you wearing shoes which clip to pedals? <S> Perhaps (I don't know) <S> you should concentrate on 'spinning' in a circular way (pushing forward and down, pulling back and up), instead of just thumping in one direction on the down-stroke.
|
Much of the hill-climbing technique off-road is keeping enough weight over the rear wheel to prevent spinning, and enough over the front wheel to prevent wheelies and lack of steering.
|
How to objectively evaluate torque wrenches? My local bicycle group bought very nice but very expensive torque wrenches (if I can remember right they cost about €300–500). My local discount store markets them for about €50. My local auction site has them ranging from a few euros to many hundred euros. I don't care about product recommendations. I want to know how I can objectively evaluate them. I know that even a superb one can deteriorate due to poor handling, hence my local bike group locks them. It must always be unloaded to 0 Nm after use so that the spring won't deteriorate, non-verified information. I am planning to invest in one because I tend to destroy the metallic things such as these here . If not at all possible, please let me know whether I could use any hardware store tool for bicycle things or should I invest in one marketed to bicyclists? P.S. by torque wrench I mean the thing that shows Newton meter units. <Q> Following on from Wayne's answer, there's a few things to consider: beam and needle, beam and dial gauge or set torque type? <S> Needle ones are cheap and robust but not very accurate or easy to use, dial gauge is the fragile, expensive and accurate version of needle, and set torque ones are more fragile but not necessarily more accurate. <S> how easy it is to set the desired torque, assuming you buy a set torque one. <S> accuracy. <S> Both how much accuracy you need, and how well the device keeps its accuracy. <S> how robust it needs to be. <S> If it's going to kept in it's protective case in a cupboard, and only used by you then any of the above will work. <S> But if you'll be using in shared workshops other people will borrow it, so the beam-and-gauge type will not be ideal. <S> I only use the set torque ones because I often find that I can't easily see the dial/gauge when I'm using the wrench. <S> My preference for evaluating accuracy is to pay of access to a decent torque wrench and do a straight comparison by hooking them together. <S> Edit: Wikipedia article . <S> Pics with labels from hhh's comment: Beam and needle type torque wrench <S> Beam and dial gauge torque wrench <S> (used to get these with a mechanical dial, modern ones are all electronic - for the price you expect as much) <S> Click set type torque wrench - there's a scale and twist to set handle on the end of the shaft. <A> You want a torque wrench that's made for the range of torques that you expect to use. <S> Basically, it will be harder to tell if you are applying the correct torque. <S> One that's too small won't let you apply the required torque. <S> For example, this wrench (which I found with a Google search <S> so it's not a recommendation) <S> has a range of 20 to 108 Nm with a 4% accuracy. <S> Some people prefer a wrench that clicks when a preset torque is reached so they know when to stop. <S> Others feel that reading from a scale works well enough. <S> There's a discussion at <S> http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-158418.html <S> that may be helpful to you. <A> Set-torque wrenches are the nicest to use, but some (including mine) don't allow you to set torque when tightening a left-hand thread (left pedal, for example). <S> Usually there's a corresponding right-hand thread to tighten at the same point in the assembly process <S> so I do that first and just tighten the left-hand thread by feel. <S> As previous posters have mentioned, you probably won't find a single torque wrench capable of doing every specified torque but 20-210 Nm should be a decent 'big' wrench. <S> You shouldn't run into any torques larger than 210 Nm <S> but there is a lot of stuff that gets less than 20 Nm. <S> I'd guess that it should be fine for doing the cap nuts, <S> but of course you will need to know the specified torque or there will be no purpose in using a torque wrench anyway. <A> In case it's not obvious, this is all on the USA side of the pond, not sure if you have access to the same tool suppliers: <S> You'll probably want a torque screwdriver for the smaller items. <S> AFAIK, only available as a "clicky-type" <S> (I don't like the clicky ones for anything other than small values, on large values I use beam type torque wrenches). <S> Snap-On makes good durable tools, especially important for anything clicky. <S> For example, torque screwdrivers = <S> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=16437&store=snapon-store <S> Beam types are more durable by nature, so I'll use cheaper brands (like Craftsman) for those.
|
A wrench with too large a range will give you limited precision in the range you need. The accuracy of the reading may also be important.
|
What is the cheapest option to fetch a person over a long-distance with bicycles? I need to fetch an outsider from about 20km far away and I want to use my bicycles. I have used roller skaters with a bicycle to fetch my friend, I let my friend to use the bike while I will stuck to the back at the destination -- it is very cool and convenient (light weight) when you know your friend but doing it with unknown outsider is not be the best option because it requires trust between the participants. My next best option is to use my foldable bike stuck to my back-bag and my diamond-framed bike but the foldable bike weighs about 10 kg. I have been considering a number of options such as tandem, an unicycle and side-cargo thing but many options tend to be expensive. I don't want to use rack based sitting approach because it would damage the rack. How do you fetch your friends or outsiders over long distances when you need to carry the transportation equipments to one-direction alone and then allow the friend/outsider to use the equipments to move to the other direction with you? If you are suggesting a thing such as tandem that may be too expensive, let me know whether you could hack your standard bike such as diamond framed bike to a tandem so that I could get it cheaper. <Q> When I drop my wife off at the train station, we use a folding bike and a trailer. <S> She rides the folding bike there, and her suitcase rides in the trailer behind my bike. <S> However, while inexpensive used folding bikes can be found, getting a trailer may be too expensive. <S> You'll either need to carry someone on your bike, or find a way to bring along another bike. <S> Since you've indicated you don't want to carry someone on your rack, I would consider buying an inexpensive beater bike and a truck bed mount, attaching the mount to a bike's rack to receive the front fork of the bike you're pulling. <S> (Here are instructions to make one of those inexpensively, scroll down a bit on the page and you'll see a commercially produced version of the same device.) <S> You take the front wheel off the towed bike and <S> the bolt shown goes where the axle of the front wheel used to. <S> Works like this: You can ride with one bike behind the other, strapping the front wheel of the bike you're towing to the side of your rack, or just carry it. <S> You'll also have the empty rack for the trip back. <A> You may want to look into getting something like a Trail Gator which can be used to tow a child's bike behind a standard bike. <S> I don't think that weight would be a problem as most children's bikes are actually Bike Shaped Objects. <S> I think my kids' bike weights more than most road bikes. <S> Might take some adjustments to get the front wheel off the ground on a full size bike <S> but you may be able to make it work. <A> You can also purchase an Xtracycle kit (the FreeRadical ) to convert your existing frame into a longtail -- these have both passenger seats and footrests available (the latter being not only convenient for your passenger, but necessary in some jurisdictions to make passenger-carrying legal). <S> Having a longtail cargo bike can come in handy for other reasons too. <S> That said, they start at $500 -- <S> I'm not sure exactly what your target budget is here.
|
You can hold onto another bike while you're riding, wheeling it along next to you, but that's not very safe (especially for rides of any distance).
|
Trouble getting the right cup and cone hub adjustment I have a pair of Shimano XT wheels and recently had issues with the hub on the rear wheel requiring new cones and bearings. These were fitted carefully but I've had issues getting the right adjustment tightening the cones. On the one hand I can tighten it to a point which effectively prohibits rotation, and there is no play. But to get the hub to anything close to a smooth rotation I get a tiny amount of play. I have experimented extensively and cannot find any way to balance not having any play with having smooth rotation - in context smooth means turning cleanly, I realise there may be some friction, particularly with new parts. Conversely when I loosen so there is just a hint of movement I get very smooth rotation. I've been testing with very small increments in tightness - probably around 3 degrees at a time. The only thing I can think of is that I've used a general purpose grease rather than a hub bearing specific one, but I would expect that to be a difference between degrees of smoothness, rather than the difference between working and not working. Can anyone provide any tips or suggestions as to how to address this? Many thanks <Q> Getting the adjustment right is sometimes difficult and is as much art as science. <S> I rebuild lots of old bikes, and frequently have to rebuild wheels. <S> Here's what I do... <S> First, be sure to work from one side. <S> Normally the non-drivetrain side; that way your axle will stay centered. <S> Clean everything up and inspect carefully. <S> Since you've already bought new cones... <S> Should be no problem. <S> The difficulty, as you note, is making the final adjustment. <S> You can get everything all set up so that it's apparently perfect. <S> Then you apply the cone wrench to hold everything in place and tighten the locknut.... <S> And it's too tight. <S> The problem is that the axle itself will tend to move when you tighten the locknut. <S> So... <S> When I get everything set to tighten down, I then clamp a big pair of vise-grips on the other side of the wheel, and hold the thing in my lap so that the vise-grips are held in place by my knee. <S> Then, you can hold the cone in place and tighten the locknut with little chance of the axle moving. <S> As to the exact adjustment.... <S> It's always been the paradigm that if you have QR skewers, you leave the adjustment so that there's just a tiny, barely perceptible amount of play so that when the skewers are tightened they take up that slack. <S> I've never done it. <S> I also don't tighten my skewers nearly as tight as all the "industry" guys recommend. <S> Don't think it's necessary. <A> It can be frustrating to be in this position. <S> I've finally learned the trick of instead of tightening the lock nut into the cones, back tighten the cone against the locking bolt. <S> That is, get it <S> so it has no play, but a little resistance and back the cone up into the locking bolt <S> As M. Werner says, a lot of online instructions say a little bit of play is made up for by the quick release and this may be just the thing for you. <S> You have to wonder, though, after all the careful adjusting, why would we rely on this inexact method? <A> And bearings need a certain amount of play. <S> Anything less than a millimetre of movement at the rim is acceptable IMO. <S> Not ideal, but acceptable. <S> I assume you cleaned the cups, cones and axle before you started? <S> Residual grit will make this difficult, as well as causing premature wear. <S> When you do this look for signs of wear on the cups. <S> If they're worn you might be able to get new ones, but it's likely you'll need a new hub (usually meaning a new wheel). <S> How are you holding the axle when you're adjusting the cones? <S> Also, remember that the clamping force when you fix the wheel into the bike is enough to change the bearing play. <S> Especially with single-speed or hub gear setups where people often overtighten the axle nuts. <S> Usually the reduces the play/tightens the bearings, but if your axle is nearly broken it could loose them. <S> If you didn't get a new axle with your new cones it is worth doing so, if for no other reason than guaranteeing that the axle is straight. <A> It means that there are microscopic imperfections in the bearing surfaces. <S> It's a very common problem, especially with old or cheap parts. <S> You can try buying new cones from another company, and see if you have better luck. <S> But if you've had these hubs for a while, then it's possible that the problem is with the cups, not the cones (I assume we're talking about the traditional type of hub, where the cup is a part of the hub body). <S> In that case, there's nothing to do but replace the wheels - or, if the play in the bearing is still small, just live with it.
|
I always set mine so that the axle rotates freely and there is no perceptible play. The lever between the bearing surfaces and the rim is quite large - a small amount of bearing play translates to quite a lot of movement at the rim. Technique when adjusting the cones is also important.
|
Bent Chainring causing chain to attempt changing gears I was riding my road bike last night when something strange happened. I stopped at a stop sign. (I didn't have time to slow down so I was in my highest (fastest) gear. When I started I had to press a lot of power into my pedals to get the bike moving again. I was pulling up on the handle bars to press more power into the pedals. A minute or two later I noticed that my bike was trying to change gears on me. I have non indexed shifters so I expected that I was just between gears. I adjusted the leavers but could not find a spot (in my current gear) where the chain was not trying to shift. Upon further inspection I noticed that my biggest front chainring was slightly bent. I am not sure if posting a picture would be useful because it is hard to see when it is not spinning. It seems like it is bent maybe 2-6mm towards the frame of the bike. Questions: Do you think that I bent my chain ring while pedaling? It is possible that it was bent before but something else is now causing my problem (although I don't know what). Is it possible that I bent my chain right by pedaling hard? What is the solution to this problem? Can I take a hammer to my chain ring and pound it back into shape? I think that if I do this AND it was bent by hard pedaling then it is likely that it will just be rebent by future hard pedaling. If I need to replace the chain ring how complex is this task? Is this something relatively easy that I could do at home or do I need to take it to my LBS? If I take it to my LBS how much should I expect to pay? <Q> no, it's almost impossible that you bent it just by pedaling. <S> Exacerbate an existing bend, yes, but bend a straight ring, no. <S> Do not pound it with a hammer - if you dent it you are also thinning it and making it longer. <S> Which means it will be permanently bent. <S> Use an adjustable wrench set to grip the chainring and try to bend around the attachment bolts, not just at the end of the wrench jaws. <S> A new chainring should be $20-$50, depending on what exactly you get. <S> To replace it yourself is easy and should require a 5mm allen key and a thin coin. <S> There will be four or five bolts on the outside of the chainring, and a matching slotted nut on the inside. <S> You can buy a special tool to grip that nut, but I find a small coin is usually enough. <S> Taking the chainring off before trying to straighten it is not a good idea as there's too much risk of dishing the chainring. <A> It's unlikely the chainring was bent by pedaling alone... <S> The forces are linear. <S> However, if you were badly cross-chained and put a lot of pressure on the pedals it might aggravate an existing condition to the point you'd start auto shifting. <S> As for straightening the chainring... <S> If it's steel, no problem. <S> I've done a bunch of them with nothing more than a crescent wrench. <S> Get directly above the ring <S> so you're looking down at it absolutely vertically, and tweak it gently till it goes straight. <S> There should be no side-to-side play. <S> If the chainring is removable, you can simply unbolt it and tap it straight with a hammer on a flat surface. <S> However... <S> If it's aluminum you might do better to buy a new one. <S> Even a fairly small bend may cause cracking and eventual failure. <A> As other users have suggested, using an adjustable crescent wrench is the way to go. <S> I recently fixed a bent chainring, and was able to get it nearly perfect with a crescent wrench. <S> I would also recommend taking a piece of cardboard and cutting a slit in it for the chainring to go through. <S> Tape the cardboard to the bike frame, and <S> as you move the pedals you can see whether the chainring goes through the slit in the cardboard. <S> This will help you get the chainring better than you could with visual inspection alone.
|
Bending it back into shape is possible, but be careful - bending metal back and forth weakens it. If your chainrings are not removable that means a new crankset but it also means your crankset is cheap, so it should be in that price range as well.
|
How many chain links do I need? Looking for chains at ebay, I see, that they have 106, 114, 116 links and so on. I have a racing bike (2x7) and see, that chains are often announced as 6-7-8-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed. Since there are some prime numbers, I guess it is only back gear, which is taken into account? I found one picture with a printing on the containment: "6-7-8 speed" and "116 Links". So am I right - would this thing be alright for me, or do I have to take more information into account? Manufacture of the bike is Peugeot, of the mechanics: Shimano exage, an 80ies bike, and the chain lost attachment very abruptly after the cold winter. I'm not stick to Shimano, if I don't need to. Location Germany, if this is of importance. <Q> The speed is the number of cogs on the rear cassette. <S> This matters because higher numbers of gears (esp 9speed) mean that the chain must be narrower to fit between them. <S> Generally 6-7-8 speed chains are the same and <S> 9 speed are thinner, more than 9 speed is a bit specialized. <S> The standard chain is 114 pins (56 links) but you almost never need to know this <S> ( I had to look it up!). <A> Gotta love Sheldon. <S> Here is ... <S> some chain length info <A> The only caveat is certain types of Shimano chains which require special pins; they are extra-long and you break off the section after putting the chain together. <S> A lot of the chains you get from Walmart and other sources have a "quickie" link, a special link that just snaps the chain together.however, you will still likely have to shorten the chain. <S> Best practice is to save the old one and use it to measure.
|
The length isn't as important because you will usually have to shorten the chain to fit your bike.
|
Bike is shifting on its own Ever since I got my bike (Surly Long Haul Trucker), it has been prone to shifting on its own. This is almost guaranteed to happen when I stand up on the pedals, and happens regularly when sitting as well. I have the feeling that this is a dangerous condition. It seems from reading about the problem that it is due to the cable catching somewhere and creating a clutch effect. ( read about it here )There does not seem to be a way to adjust the friction of the shift lever.I've tried: greasing the cable guide under the bottom bracket (no effect) backing off the tension of the cable with the tension knob on the cable casing (no effect) Can anyone relate how they overcame this? My next step is to further loosen the cable by adjusting the connection to the derailleur? <Q> Neil is right, most all "auto shifting" or "ghost shifting" is the result of cable-tension problems. <S> If the cable is a bit loose, the derailleur will try to shift "up" to a smaller cog. <S> If too tight, it will try to catch the next larger cog. <S> after that, they should be good for a long time. <S> Try this. <S> Shift to the highest (smallest) cog and try to pull the DR cable away from the frame. <S> If there's a lot of slack, it's too loose. <S> If it feels very tight.... <S> With either condition, make sure the shifter is in the highest position, and loosen the cable at the DR and then pull it snug. <S> Re-tighten the securing bolt and run it through the gears; it should be very close. <S> Ideally, the chain should jump smartly to each cog both up and down, and seat solidly on the cog. <S> If it's just a bit off, you can play with the barrel adjuster either at the shifter or at the DR.Another cause of such problems <S> is a bent rear DR "hanger", the part that the DR attaches to. <S> Some of these are very soft aluminum and can be easily bent. <S> Make sure the DR cage is exactly parallel to the cogs and the hanger is not visibly bent. <A> Someone else may be able to speak to the exact circumstances that cause this, but adjusting cable tension (see M. Werner's answer about this) and front and rear derailers, along with keeping your drivetrain clean and properly lubed, will go a long way towards eliminating this problem. <S> (While this has worked well on my full-sized touring bike, I have another bike where I've been unable to completely eliminate ghost shifting.) <A> Check your frame for hairline cracks. <S> One of my bikes did shift to a larger sprocket when going uphill and back down immediately after the incline. <S> The situation actually lasted for an astoundingly long time, several Mm. <S> I only found out after the right hand chain stay finally gave way completely. <S> Apart from that particular bike, I never experienced ghost shifting. <A> So this is an old thread. <S> I wanted to post what was happening to me... <S> I have two sets of Sunraace SLM10 friction shifters. <S> I was also experiencing ghost shifting. <S> I did have a fair amount of play when in the lowest gear ratio. <S> I tightened it, all to no avail. <S> So I took my friction shifters apart, and realized that there is a spring with a plastic tab on it. <S> The way these are designed, the screw that goes into the post also puts pressure on these springs. <S> I tightened them to their Max and have experienced no more ghost shifting. <S> If you are having this problem and the set has a screw in the post, you may want to tighten it. <A> Cable tension is the greatest factor. <S> Always get the derailleur hanger/plate tested <S> It is quite surprising how often this is not perpendicular or true. <S> Drag within the cable will affect modern 10 through to 12 speed systems, and that is why the outer cable ie the quality thereof plays an important role. <S> Hardly ever are worn rivets on the parallelogram body a significant factor. <S> the derailleur roller cage must be straight but will display a slight angle <S> ( the upper jockey roller will 'lead' going upwards to the larger cog). <S> Shimano actually says this is preferable. <A> Grab hold of the derailleur and try and wobble it. <S> If there is any play it will move to towards the wheel under pressure, the chain will try and stay straight and will try to jump up to the next largest cog or slip between cogs. <S> Hopefully it’s just loose and can be tightened with a hex key, else the housing is worn and its time for a new one.
|
Often it is better to shift the derailleur onto the small cog on Cassette, to wind the Barrel-adjust all the way in, loosen off the clamp pull the cable finger tight, and then use the barrel adjust after one shift-click to get the chain onto the next cog. I've heard this referred to as ghost shifting, and a proper setup on your drivetrain will almost always make it go away. Cables stretch, especially after a short period where the new cables stretch to the point they're stable.
|
Age-specific information for cyclists I was reading a discussion ( Cycling: mashing versus spinning ) in which someone commented ... In the big picture, winning against other age-groupers is pretty unremarkable. ... which implies that cycling performance is affected by one's age. Now ageing might be, to quote the FAQ, "an actual problem that you face". Assuming that ageing is in fact some kind of 'problem', can you tell me what's useful to know about it? Especially as it relates to cycling (ability, performance, expectations, and/or training)? For example a little bit of googling found " Key found to muscle loss as we age " which suggests that one cause of muscle wasting in older people is decreased blood flow to the legs (which cycling presumably helps to counter-act somewhat). To be a bit more specific: I'm soon to be 50 (but please feel free to talk about other ages if you know about it and think it would interest) I'd looking for any specifically age-related information (e.g. I think all articles will say that in general exercise is good for you at any/every age: which is the opposite of being an age-specific statement, or statements about specific ages or ageing) I'm looking for bicycle-specific information (so perhaps not especially for statements relating to flexibility, memory and other mental abilities, impact-resilience, and/or other such ageing-related phenomena that aren't especially relevant to bicycling) I'd prefer actionable or prescriptive information <Q> I'm over 50, starting my 30th year of cycling, and raced for 10 years when much younger. <S> I've been tracking my performance over the 30 years with detailed training diaries. <S> The main age related issue I've found is that it takes longer for me to recover from hard efforts. <S> The consequence is that I cannot train as hard overall because I cannot handle as many hard days of training. <S> I also find that I need to warm up longer before hard efforts, which reduces the time I can spend working hard in any given training session. <S> Overall, I haven't found much decrease in performance given the reduced amount of hard training. <S> In other words, if I compare my current performance to earlier times when I was training at the same level of effort, my performance is only a little worse. <S> I'm curious to find out at what age <S> I will start seeing a bigger decline. <S> I deal with the reduced number of hard sessions by pushing myself extremely hard during those sessions and taking it much easier on other rides. <S> My goal is that my hard days are very hard and my easy days are very easy. <A> I think as you get older the "use it or lose" it problem with muscle mass and bone density becomes more obvious. <S> The rate of loss of both of those increases as you age. <S> My solution here is just to keep stretching, keep riding and do more tai chi and yoga rather than aikido & judo. <S> A secondary effect is that recovery time increases, as does reaction time. <S> So you're both more likely to crash, and you take longer to recover when you do. <S> Perhaps a shift from criterium to velodrome racing is a good idea once you hit 50 (not that any of my friends seem to be doing that, but they should). <S> At the extreme, a lot of geriatric old farts switch to recumbent trikes once they hit 60 or 70, partly because they struggle to get on and off an upright, but also because the cost of falling off one is so high - break a hip at 70 and your life expectancy drops dramatically. <S> There have also been quite a few long distance records set by older cyclists, including some hour records. <S> Older in this case meaning "over 30", although Fast Freddy Markham set the hour record when he was 50. <A> I'm 65, with the problems one might expect; had surgery on a knee last year, aches and pains in shoulder joints, had a little bout of angina a couple of years ago and got a stent... <S> Still riding though. <S> By all accounts, given that cycling is a superb aerobic (or "cardio" as they say now) exercise, it might behoove the older rider to toss in some resistance training as well to compensate for muscle-mass loss. <S> I've been doing non-impactive upper-body work recently (using a device called a "Bulgarian training bag") and it seems to be helping my wonky shoulders and general upper-body strength. <A> Here's an article on that subject: With muscles, 'use it or lose it' rings true <S> It's good and bad news: <S> With regular extreme exercise, some people stay strong into their 70s <S> Quotes: <S> The subjects in the study were 40 recreational masters athletes between the ages of 40 and 81, who trained four to five times a week for running, swimming or cycling races. <S> Surprisingly, neither leg muscle size nor strength declined significantly with age among the subjects, suggesting that regular training had warded off the muscle-wasting effects of aging. <S> The sample MRIs showed virtually indistinguishable quadriceps in a 40-year-old triathlete compared with a 70-year-old triathlete. <S> In contrast, the quadriceps of a 74-year-old sedentary man were shrivelled and enveloped in fat. <S> However muscles and "spinal motor neurons" which you don't exercise don't benefit <S> The older runners had a slightly higher number of arm motor units than their sedentary peers, but the difference wasn’t statistically significant. <S> Both were dramatically lower than the younger controls – a finding that wasn’t entirely unexpected. <S> In summary: loss of motor units is only one aspect of age-related decline ... choose a mix of exercises that also target cardiorespiratory fitness and bone health ... <S> the majority [of Canadians] still don’t meet even minimum guidelines for physical activity ... <S> current decisions about exercise [affect] quality of life a few decades down the road. <S> “We control 70 per cent of how we age,” she says. <S> “The other 30 per cent is genetic, and we can blame our mothers for that. <S> But 70 per cent is in our hands.” <A> Years ago, I read an academic journal on exercise physiology. <S> From memory, almost all measures of fitness decline from around age 30, except strength. <S> The test subjects in the study increased their strength to whatever the maximum age measured in the paper. <S> Mind, my own experience is greater endurance as an older athlete than when younger. <S> Mostly due to working out appropriately to meet the goal. <A> I don't think there's anything "useful" to know about aging in the context you outline, although it could potentially be interesting for you to compare your own fitness and performance over time. <S> Common trend: Athletic performance declines with age. <S> Individual trend: <S> My performance has increased with age since I pay more attention to my fitness, diet, etc. <S> So the "problem" as defined might be the general trend... which should not be correlated with individual performance.
|
On the positive side, if you're a competitive cyclist your increased experience and tactical judgement help to offset your lower peak power output until well into your 40s.
|
Which footwear is the safest for summer cycling? This morning I could not find my training shoes. So, I used my sandals. I found that the sandals not only kept my feet cool but there was no pedal slippage as I had expected. The more I think about it, having no laces is probably another advantage. So, which footwear is best for summer cycling? <Q> When summer comes around, I love riding around in my Chaco sandals. <S> When using any non-cycling shoe on a bike, you'll want to have proper pedals with a good grippy platform, I particularly like the MKS Grip King . <S> The biggest danger is probably getting the tops of your feet sunburned. <S> I wouldn't recommend flip-flops or non-sport sandals, but sport sandals are perfectly fine on a bike. <S> If you want to get seriously dorky, you can even get SPD-cleat ready sandals from Shimano or Keen. <A> I commute by bicycle in the summer in Sacramento, CA... <S> there are days when it is so hot in the afternoon that I avoid brushing against the steel frame of my bike because it burns the skin to touch! <S> I agree that open-toed sandals are not such a great idea for cycling--even when overheating is an issue--but I also believe that heat stress is a real problem that must be dealt with. <S> Cooling my feet off isn't my highest priority, but it is certainly in the mix. <S> The solution that I have found are close-toed sandals. <S> In fact, I have found a pair of closed-toed sandals that accept cleats for clipless pedals. <S> I roll with SPD's in my sandals in the summer. <S> I'm riding in Keen Commuter sandals in the summer: <S> http://bit.ly/hyo1M5 <S> My one issue with them is that I need to cinch them very tight in order to not feel them moving on my foot when I'm lifting up on the pedal. <S> Otherwise, no complaints! <A> Sandals are fine for casual pedaling, but are unsafe and innapropriate for more energetic efforts. <S> Good rule of thumb? <S> If you're going for coffee, and not on a hard core road bike (or in a group of friends that make everything a race) then sandals are probably ok. <S> Less than 5 miles an hour, probably ok. <S> Road bike? <S> Racer buddies? <S> Off road, even a little bit? <S> Wear the trainers. <S> And BTW good, ventilated, light weight trainers are just as comfy as sandals, but are a lot safer. <S> They'll have the best traction, and really high quality shoes are very comfortable and well ventilated. <S> Generally sandals aren't good riding shoes. <A> I happen to think sandals are a bad idea. <S> They provide next to no toe protection. <S> I know people who have ridden in the winter with sandals and love them. <S> (Goretex socks as outers for water protection and whatever you need inside for the temperature). <S> But the problem is there is so much crap on the road, you never know when something will pop up hit your feet. <S> This was funny as after reading about the guy with the Goretex socks, I tried my ride to work in sandals, and actually hit a bit of wrapping (The stuff the tie up stacks of wood or things on pallets with) that was on the ground, and whacked my toes pretty badly. <S> The more I looked around as I rode on the street <S> I realized there is way too much crap on the road for sandals to be a good idea. <S> As zenbike said, to hop out for coffee, sure. <S> But if you are going to do any road riding, it seems ill advised to me. <A> There are Shimano SD65 sandals with the SPD cleat, cleats being a safety feature IMHO as they keep your feet on the pedals even if you are not fully clipped in, with less scope for your feet to slip off the front of the pedals. <S> Couple these with Time rather than SPD cleats and you get ankle movement and do not have to constantly reposition your feet as happens with platform pedals. <S> As mentioned already in this thread, flip-flops are a bad idea. <S> In fact they are a spectacularly bad idea and I only found this out after meeting someone that broke their ankle from riding a bike with flip-flops. <S> What happened was that the flip-flop bent round the pedal to be close to the ground, this hit some scenery and the hospital ward followed thereafter.
|
Sandals at low speed may have good traction on a pedal, but sandals at higher speeds are unlikely to maintain good traction between both the pedals and the sandals, and between the sandals and your feet. Even better, consider a pair of cycling shoes, with pedals made to fit.
|
Why is it common for cheap bikes to have the frame sawn in half below the saddle? These days cheap bikes often seem to come with the frame sawn in half below the saddle. What does the manufacturer gain from this design, and why is it associated mostly with cheap, low quality bikes? What disadvantages are there to the bike rider? I assume that it's not a great feature since quality bike makers don't seem to opt for this design. <Q> The seat tube is split because it has rear suspension - <S> the rear of the bike rotates around a pivot located just in front of the bottom bracket. <S> Several early full-suspension bikes used a similar design for the rear pivot; this design was then knocked off by the lower-end manufacturers looking to cash in on the popularity of mountain bikes. <S> It's extremely simple and gives the bike the expensive "full-suspension" look. <S> Unfortunately it mostly just adds weight, pedal bob, and complexity to an already heavy turd of a bike. <S> Most modern full-suspension bikes use more expensive rear linkages and advanced suspension designs, so this older design has almost entirely been relegated to department store bikes. <A> It's a combination of a simple, almost two dimensional frame which is easy to design and manufacture, and the open layout making it easy to assemble. <S> On a cheap bike those two factors outweigh anything else. <S> The main problem with the design is torsional rigidity along the frame. <S> Because there are no seat stays the rear wheel twists easily <S> and so does the seat. <S> To compensate for that the "ẗop tube" (that holds the seat) and "chain stays" (that hold the rear wheel) are made heavier than they are on an unsuspended bike. <S> The design pictured attempts to minimise this by using triangulated stays for the wheel, but all the torsion still goes onto the pivot resulting in poor performance. <S> Most noticeable when standing up to pedal hard, especially if you tilt the bike (think BMX racing). <S> Notice that in the picture above all the main frame tubes are oversize, and most have non-circular profiles. <S> This is an attempt to maximise strength in the directions it's most needed without compromising the budget by using harder steel (which is more expensive, but more importantly requires much more expensive tooling). <A> There have been a few "serious" bikes made with this design; Trek produced a few years ago. <S> However, it proved to be a poor design as it puts the pivots in the wrong places. <S> I took one of those cheesy Y-frames and used it as the basis for my home-built recumbent... <S> It actually worked pretty well for that. <A> Here is an example of high-end carbon fiber frame with similar geometry = <S> Trek Y Foil. <S> It proved to be unsuccesful design, but low-end bicycle manufacturers copied it anyway (also using cheaper materials and simplified design). <A> It is clear that this design is heavy, weakens the structural integrity of what was once a simple diamond frame, introduces bushes that wear, does the 'pedal bob' and complicates the maintenance. <S> However, what is in it for the manufacturer? <S> 'Horst Link' and other properly thought out suspension designs are patented, these patents cost money to licence, whereas the design discussed here is royalty free. <S> Not wishing to defend the design, however, it does have some benefits with 24 and 20 inch wheel children's bikes, providing a lower standover height and providing some protection for the back wheel from kerbs and other objects 'in the playground'. <S> From a retailers perspective the differential between the non suspended and cheap suspended variant can be all of £10, which is £10 more in the till. <S> The customer gets 'full suspension' for all of £10, which can be sold as a 'bargain'...
|
That's the cheapest, easiest way to make a rear suspended bike. It costs nothing apart from a few lumps of ugly metal. Worse, some manufacturers use the same design for a rigid rear end, giving you all the disadvantages of both.
|
Disk brake has never worked properly from new, pads replaced - still rubbish! I've got Shimano hydraulic disc brakes and ever since I've had the bike (from new) the front brake has never worked properly. It used to squeak really loudly and perform badly but I assumed they just needed bedding in (taking the bike back to where I got it from wasn't really an option as I bought it from a shop far from where I live (long story)). After riding around 100 miles on the bike with no improvement I decided to get the pads replaced. The squeaking isn't as loud, but it still does squeak and the performance is still rubbish. I've read about cleaning the pads and discs with alcohol which I've now done and that hasn't made any difference either so I'm all out of ideas. It's really annoying as I used to have cable V-brakes which worked brilliantly! My friend is also having trouble with his disc brakes and I'm starting to think disc brakes are more trouble that they're worth?! Any suggestions would be appreciated! <Q> I suggest first checking that everything is assembled correctly. <S> Download the instructions from Shimano's website and check that everything is in the right place and done up tight (but not too tight!) <S> Or tell us what model you have and ideally post a picture. <S> Look down at the pads and make sure that they clear the rotor on both sides and that they're parallel to the rotor. <S> Squeeze the lever and make sure they squeeze fairly evenly and with no obvious stiction. <S> If the pads aren't parallelreset the capiler - these directions look fairly useful to me and there's a video (that I haven't watched). <S> Basically, loosen the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever, tighten the bolts. <A> The model I had was BR-M485. <S> I found an article saying that shimano had accepted some of them were faulty - leaking oil. <S> I have since bought a set of Shimano Deore M596, and they work like a dream! <A> Can you describe "not working properly"? <S> Is it braking power, rotor rub, noise, lever throw,etc?Also, <S> what brake model? <S> Moz's idea for caliper alignment works well on most Avid brakes but it relies on a floating mount system that your setup ay not have. <S> @DavidThe <S> presence of any oil on the pads or rotor is a bad sign (and also likely explains why the brakes no longer squeal as much) - what's the lever-resistance like? <S> Can you pull the lever all the way into the bar? <S> You can service this yourself <S> but it's finicky and requires a few specialized tools. <S> It's usually the same price to have your bike shop bleed the brake as buying the manufacturers bleed kit, so I don't bother doing them myself.
|
Make sure the rotor is on the wheel the right way round (it should have arrows in the centre). If they've never worked properly I'd suspect they need to be bled, or you could have a very small leak-you don't see any fluid then around the drums that press the pads into the rotor.
|
Why is the rear wheel of my tandem bike skidding? We have recently bought a tandem and the rear wheel skids out when riding. Any idea why this happens? Comment below: When we are riding along in a straight line and there is an uneven surface it does this a lot. The heavier rider is on the front of the bike. <Q> If the stoker is standing up, this can shift weight off the rear wheel, making a skid more likely. <S> Standing up on tandems is "advanced", some would add "insanity". <A> Not enough weight is on the back of the bike. <S> Try riding the bike without a stoker and see if you get the same behavior out of the bike. <A> I think it may have to do with the pressure in your tires. <S> I experience this in an overloaded bicycle as the tire pressure drops (over time) <S> the rear wheel will sometimes feel like it is slipping out from under me on uneven surfaces even if I am not breaking and the surface is dry. <S> I never had this problem with higher pressure tires, it only has begun since changing to wider schwalbe marathon supreme tires. <A> Yes, more detail about your riding scenario will help. <S> Are you trying to ride it alone at times? <S> Tandem wheelbase length could be an issue if you are going solo. <S> One last thing - the heavier rider may need to be in front. <S> The front wheel is all your stopping power and so their weight will stablize the front end. <S> If there is a great deal of weight difference in the riders, then you will have to experiment which position allows most comfort and handling.
|
Also, if you and the other rider are not leaning into turns correctly with each other, then this can be causing skid/balance issues. The captain's weight hardly pushes the rear wheel down at all, while the stoker's weight is almost completely on the rear wheel, so check their weight is positioned correctly.
|
Drop handlebars with drops that don't fit. Replace or adjust? I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker a couple years ago, and it has the stock handlebars. My hands don't really fit in the drops, and I sometimes would like a lower handlebar position where I can still reach the brake levers. For windy days, going down a hill real fast, going faster for the heck of it, etc. Having my "go fast" hand position be one I can't reach the brakes is kinda scary. My girlfriend recently got a Trek 520 (this year's model) and seems like with her handlebars my hands would actually fit in the drops. What's my best option for getting that extra hand position? If the answer is "buy new handlebars", what should I look for in those handlebars? There's a lot of options with "traditional bends", "ergo bend", "variable radius bend", flare, etc. and it's not really clear to me. It's a "touring" bike but I have it outfitted as a commuter. I believe the handlebars are "PMT" which turns out to be nearly impossible to google usefully for. The drops appear to be directly beneath the ramps (no flaring). The classic older 26mm (?) clamp diameter. I'd say a small reach and a small amount of drop, but not quite sure how to measure. Width measure (center to center) came out to about 44cm. Either way, handlebar tape is about due for replacement anyways. I spend maybe 75%-90% of my time riding "on the hoods", a small amount of time on the top flat part, and even less on the drops. Pictures: (click for bigger view. And yes, it's the wrong hand but it was easier to take photos that way. ) I can ride with my hand somewhat like this: But my hands don't really fit forward in the drops where I can reach the brakes. Unless I rotate out and/or squish my hand up a bit; neither of which isn't comfortable: Handlebar setup pics: <Q> It looks like you're treating it as four positions: tops, hoods, vertical part of drops, horizontal part of drops. <S> Compared to my bike, your bars seem to be rotated forward, and the levers seem high up the bars. <S> It strikes me that you might be able to try rotating your bars back and move the levers further forward. <S> This would make the hood part of your bar flatter, in the photo when you're holding the hoods, the bar there seems to be going down-hill, and the hoods are going up-hill, but with by rotating the bar and moving the levers, that area would be flatter. <S> And, you'd end up with one 'in the drops' position where the bar would be angled at about 35/40 degrees, and you might well be able to both fit your hand there nicely and be able to reach the brakes from that one position. <S> I'm not sure if this Surly has the same handlebars, but whatever they are, they definitely seem to be rotated back more as I described. <S> The ends of the bars seem to be vertically under the tops: http://lockouttoout.blogspot.com/2010/11/surly-long-haul-trucker-54cm-bike-black.html <A> There are a wide variety of bars available... <S> You have "ergonomic" bars, bars with extra-deep drops... <S> Fairly annoying to experiment, however. <S> Replacing roadster bars is a bit of work; much more involved than say, MTB bars which can be swapped out in few minutes with modern components. <S> Consider getting a "fitting"? <S> and then you'd have a better notion as to which way to go with the bars. <A> One thing that might help is adjusting the reach on the brake levers. <S> This is apparently not a common feature on drop bar brake levers despite being on most flat bar levers. <S> There's a reference here to Dia Compe short-reach brake levers (BL-24C) that is one example. <S> Or you get shims that have the same effect <S> If it's any consolation I have big hands and still have this issue on some drop bars. <S> I assume the people who own those bikes don't use the brakes from the drops. <A> Commenting on the first picture:You will never be able to reach levers with that hand position on 'classical shaped' drop bars (they are just designed this way) <S> you will always be uncomfortable riding those. <S> I would recommend to change your bars, either to classical ones or (if you dont like big differences in position when switching hand position) something like this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-omega-compact-road-handlebar/ <S> (I use those, and I also am equipped with large hands ;) ) <A> You probably won't like this, but if you set up the bars and brakes on that bike that way on purpose, then the bike frame likely is the wrong size for you. <S> Without seeing you on the bike, it's really hard to say. <S> My guess is that the bars would work better for you if they were closer and lower to your center of mass. <S> As a rough rule of thumb the tops of the bars should be "flattish" and the lower end of the bar should point at the rear axle. <S> There are no hard and fast rules, but generally that's where you start on a road bike. <S> Bars with the "level" lower grip are generally only seen on bikes for track racing where you almost always are using the lower bar. <S> Bars come in a wide variety of shapes, key numbers are drop and reach. <S> Drop is roughly the distance from top to bottom and reach is the measurement from the flat part at the back to the tip of the bend. <S> Those bars look pretty "compact" already. <S> But there are lot's of others to try. <S> If just rotating doesn't fix the problem, my next suggestion would be a shorter stem.
|
You have a strange drops, upper curve of he bars is very short and does not allow to change the position of the brake levers, with your big hands Your hand does look rather cramped in those bars... It might be worth while to have your position analyzed
|
Is my pressure gauge broken? I recently got an xtech pressure gauge that reads up to 160psi. My bike is a road bike that uses presta valves on the inner tubes. Here's the gauge (the one at the bottom): http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/d377.html When I pop it on the valve the reading only seems to go up to about 40 psi. I feel if I inflate my tires much more they might explode (they are pretty much rock solid and I was expecting a reading of something more like 100) - they seem to have the same level of inflation as I bought them. So my question is, is there a special way in which I should be hooking this up? At the moment I'm just unscrewing the metal release thing on the presta valve and pushing the gauge on firmly. The gauge holds its reading even after you remove it, and I've tried resetting it by pressing it's release valve button but that doesn't seem to make any difference. I'm guesssing it's busted but maybe I'm doing something silly. <Q> I suggest borrowing a pump with a pressure gauge and pumping up your tyres with that. <S> Then try your gauge once you know the tyre pressure. <S> Bike shops and a lot of cyclists have a floor pump because they work better than the little portable pumps than most cyclists carry. <S> And those have a gauge on them that's usually fairly accurate. <S> You say the pressure release button on the gauge "doesn't seem to make any difference". <S> What do you mean - does the gauge drop back to zero? <S> If not it's definitely busted. <A> Presta valves can be a little tricky as well. <S> An old practice is to unscrew the lock-ring all the way and then push it in to break the seal before applying the pump. <A> Just went on a ride with some friends, one of which has his tires inflated to 90psi. <S> 90psi is way higher than I thought.. there is <S> no give on his tires when you squeeze them. <S> Looks like I need to pump mine way higher!
|
Also, considering getting a floor pump as 90psi might be a pain with my hand pump. Sometimes the valve will stick and you'll get false readings.
|
Vegetable oil to oil a bike? Is vegetable oil as good as motor oil to oil a bike? <Q> Vegetable oils tend to "polymerize", that is become sticky and solid. <S> Castor oil, for instance, is an excellent lubricant that was favored for racing autos and motorcycles for a long time. <S> The reason it never became popular for regular cars was that it also built up a lot of sticky, cruddy goo. <S> Racing engines are regularly torn down and rebuilt; no matter. <S> Not so your sedan. <S> The oils used in oil-based paints are usually vegetable-based as well; they tend to become quite solid after a while. <S> As I've noted before, lubes, especially chain lubes, seem to be a "thing" for serious cyclists. <S> Chain lube threads on dedicated bike forums tend to go on and on and on... <S> It's the engineering mentality at work. <S> "Maybe I can get 100 more miles out of my chain if I concoct my own special blend!" <S> Maybe... <S> Chain lubes are cheap. <S> They cost at most what, 10 bucks for a bottle sufficient for a year?As <S> well, chains are cheap. <S> Oh, you can spend a lot for super-deluxe items, but a good, well-made standard chain is under 20 bucks and will last most riders as long as they keep the bike if lubed and cleaned properly. <S> Related <S> "Best chain lubricant for road bikes?" <S> Asks about the best lubricant out of conventional oils and lubricants <S> "Substitutes for chain lubricants" Asks about non-traditional substitutes for chain lubricant <A> On the chain, not so much. <S> As M. Werner says, it polymerises and turns into stick goo fairly quickly, and there's nothing you can do to stop that. <S> So you can really only put it somewhere that it's easy to remove. <S> Like a chain. <S> Then you just need to use a chain cleaner on it every couple of weeks and reapply the oil. <S> Using vege oil other places could be awful. <S> Inside a hub gear especially, for one example. <S> I have one friend who tried vegetable oil on his chain, and experimented with a variety of oils. <S> He doesn't use vege oil any more, from memory because it turned to black goo too fast. <S> I believe that even cheap motor oil is better. <S> I have emailed him a link, hopefully he will chime in. <S> Edit: he says he doesn't have anything useful to add. <A> Mineral oil consists of "alkanes" which have a simple chemical formula (C n H 2n+2 ). <S> (I'm less sure about waxes; but oil is more common, in chain lube, than wax). <S> I've just Googled the oil which my LBS sold me and note that it says , "Finish Line’s WET Lubricant features an Inherently Biodegradable formulation which that between 20% and 60% of the product’s base oils will degrade within 28 days." <S> Contrast that with another type of oil , which lasts a long time by being mineral oil. <A> No. <S> It's about $5 for a bottle of chain lube and $10 for a tube of grease . <S> Those are top-of-the-line lubricants and will last you for months of frequent application. <S> There is absolutely zero reason why you should jeopardize the lifespan of your bicycle by coating it with food. <A> I'm not really sure what the intent behind the question is here, but I have tried vegetable oil, and it's not great. <S> It doesn't smell enough to concern you, but it gets gummy pretty quickly, and picks up dirt. <S> It might be alright if you cleaned and re-applied really regularly (like every 3-4 days?), but I was too lazy to bother. <S> Ok, and perhaps a little symbolism. <S> Anyway, a quick web search for "environmental bike lubricant" reveals http://www.green-oil.net/environment.html , which looks promising (long-chain polymers extracted from plant oil), and seems to have decent reviews. <S> I haven't tried it yet, but will see if I can get some and try it out. <A> If your bike was a garage sale or dumpster find, sure, put vegetable oil on it. <S> I do it to old kids' bikes. <S> It works ok, and doesn't get them as greasy as motor oil or axle grease. <S> I've seen a lawn mower that someone filled with canola oil instead of motor oil, and it ran just fine for a long time, though the oil did thicken up and stink. <S> It works great, but smokes a little, and has to be drained from the reservoir or it will congeal some. <S> Some chains aren't cheap. <S> The new "9 speed" chains are $20+, the "10 speed" chains are around $30-80, and the sure to be next 11, 12, 13 speed chains are italian top shelf stuff and $$$$$. <A> Since the question never actually specified which part of the bike was to be oiled, I'll point out that linseed oil (specifically boiled linseed oil) is often used as spoke prep. <S> In this case, it's used to lubricate the spoke threads during wheel assembly, and the fact that it dries afterwards is desirable as it acts like a threadlock to resist the nipple unscrewing. <A> Tri-flow now makes a soy-based chain lube: <S> http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Soy_Lubricant_Drip.html A big ol' jug of soybean oil from the grocery store has the problems noted elsewhere.
|
FWIW there is a vegetable oil based chainsaw bar oil on the market, and I've used cheap corn oil with a little used motor oil as a bar oil for months. The reasons I wanted to try vege oil were basically environmental, and because I don't want to use products produced by the petroleum industry. Fats go rancid because their molecules include relatively complicated/weak bonds.
|
Child seat: how to keep the child's head from falling forward? When my child falls asleep in the child seat, his head falls forward. How can I keep his head back? The child seat is a modern type with a back that can be tilted back to prevent that. It works, but only as long as the bike isn't moving. But at speed, the seat's movements from an uneven road surface and from simply pedalling will slowly but surely make his head fall forward. Short of replacing the child seat with one whose back can be angled even further back, what options do I have? I thought of the whiplash protectors used in Formula 1 cars: somehow strap the child's helmet to the seat back. But that would be neither safe nor effective, as such a strap would only tug at the helmet (not the head) with the risk of slow suffocation or at least a helmet that slides into the neck and would no longer protect the head in case of an accident. Let me add a fun photo: here, a cloth bag is hung from the helmet in an attempt to keep the child's head from falling forward. We did NOT actually do that, but it shows the idea. <Q> Here is a solution that actually worked very well -- and during our testing it appears safe to use, seemingly also in the event of an accident. <S> (If you disagree, please explain why!) <S> Earlier, we tried looping the rubber band through one of the helmet's air vents, but this caused problems: pulling the helmet back towards the neck revealing the forehead, and potentially putting upwards pressure on the chin strap. <S> Evidently, the helmet's shell should be left alone. <S> Attaching the rubber band to the helmet's headband was much better. <S> As you can see from the photo, it provides a very level <S> pull (not angled) in the perfectly opposite direction of the force of the falling head. <S> The length of the rubber band also allows sufficient freedom of movement <S> so it doesn't restrict the child when he's awake. <S> Since the headband is already designed to spread the pressure evenly around the head, it also appeared to comfortably spread the "hold-back force" (feel free to edit my lacking English) . <A> We have a neck pillow to fit our youngest. <S> Similar to this one... <S> http://www.amazon.com/Noodlehead-Travel-Buddies-Neck-Pillow/dp/B000EOEAUS <S> She went down a good bit of the the Katy trail using one of these in a Topeak rack seat. <S> Works like a champ. <A> The seat-back curves backwards towards its top. <S> So if your child were a little higher in the seat (taller/older or, perhaps, sitting on a cushion), then their head would lean back more. <S> Having a little padding behind the upper back and neck shoulders <S> (so that there's more room for the head to fall backwards) <S> might do too: a "travel neck pillow". <S> The back of the helmet is pushing the head forward, away from the seat <S> (but I can't suggest altering the helmet). <A> Some child seats come with an optional "desk" specifically for this. <S> The BoBike "handlbar", for instance, is padded up to the point where most kids won't actually be able to hold on to it: <S> http://www.gazellebicycles.com.au/component/content/172.html?task=view <S> I would try to add something like that, and probably start with a seatpost-mounted handlebar from a tandem (often they use a standard stem and a shim, but you probably want a tandem-specific extending stem ). <A> How about a neck pillow? <S> It’s actually made to solve this problem. <S> Ships from UK, I think. <S> http://www.sandini-online.com/sleepfix/kids/sandini-sleepfix-kids-bike-gruen
|
What we did was to loop a thick soft rubber band around the helmet's headband, and then secure the other end of the rubber band to the seatback using a bit of string through one of the shoulder-strap openings, to achieve a horizontal pull.
|
How to properly calculate wheel diameter (rim+tire)? Is it true that 26" rim actual diameter is 25.625"? How does tire size affect wheel diameter?Is there any special formula to calculate wheel diameter? <Q> You could calculate the effective diameter by measuring rollout and dividing that number by pi. <S> To measure the rollout start with your valve stem in the lowest possible position and make a mark on the floor next to the valve stem. <S> Ride the bike one revolution until the valve stem is at the bottom of it's rotation again and make another mark on the floor. <S> Measure the distance between the two marks to find the effective circumference. <A> <A> I wouldn't trust any formula, since the actual outside diameter can be affected by so many things, and since the advertised tire width isn't always accurate. <S> If you want the diameter, do like Russ said and measure it yourself. <S> You might also be interested in what Sheldon Brown had to say on this subject.
|
Your wheel diameter can vary depending on: tire model you are using tire wear air pressure
|
What is the maximum weight that "normal" racing wheels can withstand? I was recently in a bike-shop where the proprietor told me that the "normal" racing wheels of the more advanced bikes are normally only rated to carry 85kg. For example, he mentioned the Bianchi Maddux RX 5.1 as being unsuitable for a 95+kg person… you could ride on them, but within six months you would be unhappy. I have never heard this before, and while it is obvious that the wheels will have a designed weight limit, I find 85kg really light. I am over 6'4", so getting to 85kg renders me as a stick insect, and is unlikely to happen… So I would like to know whether I really need to splash out the extra to get custom made 36 spoke wheels. So the direct question, for a normal 24 spoke wheel, what is the designed carry load for this wheel? Edit : I ended up getting myself a pair of Mavic Ksyrium SR wheels. The general reviews seem to have them as being fairly strong... Edit 2 : Having ridden these wheels for a few thousand kms, I can say that they really are strong. I just had a front-on accident where the bike frame had the top pipe literally snapped , and the front wheel is only slightly off true, and with a relatively small dent... still enough to write the wheel off, but I was extraordinarily impressed! <Q> As a sometime wheelbuilder, I'd say yes. <S> It should be in the manual for the wheel, and ideally on the spec sheet as well. <S> That's not to say you need to obey them, just be aware that when you don't you're much more likely to have problems. <S> But for a race where they matter, it can be worth it. <S> You're likely to get away with them for flat time trial when a steep climb or criterium will see them fail in the first race. <S> But for the TT, those wheels might shave the critical 5s off your time. <S> It's not just your weight on the saddle that matters. <S> You're also stronger than a lighter rider, and more likely to have a huge amount of explosive power. <S> Those are the things that actually cause wheels to fail because that's when you're side loading the wheel. <S> Throwing the bike around in a sprint is especially bad because you're throwing your weight sideways at the bike on the down stroke. <S> I've had customers who can't even get a reasonable life out of standard 36 spoke wheels. <S> All it takes is a 100kg guy who races criteriums or rides to work and likes jumping out of the lights, and their wheels start failing after a few Mm. <S> The tricky ones are the 120kg+ riders who are overweight and are riding to lose it. <S> Often we see them only after their first bike has fallen apart under them (and it's a combination of being heavy and poor technique - they don't lift off the saddle on bumps, so the rear wheel takes the full impact of every lip and pothole). <S> Having to explain that no stock wheel will work can be hard - instead of a $500 bike they're going to need a heavy $600 steel MTB with $300 of custom wheels. <A> The ultimate limit of a wheel is not in terms of "weight", but in terms of force. <S> I would guess you could statically load most bicycle wheels with about 1000 pounds of weight without causing a failure. <S> It is dynamic loads that are the issue, and those are hard to predict. <S> When you hit a good-sized bump with a bike wheel (in a non-suspension frame) you apply a force equal to several times your weight to it, and the amount of force applied is going to depend, among other things, on how much shock-absorbing you supply with your arms and legs. <S> Hitting a bump stiff-armed and with your rear on the saddle applies much more force than if your arms are bent and your legs flexed and supporting you above the saddle. <S> Weight limits that manufacturers list are at best a guess, based on the "average" rider perceived to be using that style of wheel. <S> If you ride more aggressively, on rougher terrain, and/or with less shock-absorption provided by your arms and legs (or the bike) then you could be under the limit and still over-stress the wheel. <S> If you're a "dainty" rider who sticks to smooth pavement, "glides" over RR tracks and the like, and never hops a curb, you weight could safely exceed the "guidelines" by a substantial amount. <A> Hmm. <S> It turns out that he might be onto something. <S> I found this on the Fulcrum Racing 7 manual page : <S> If you weigh over 109kg/240lbs then we advise you not to use this product. <S> Non-compliance with this warning can damage the product irreversibly. <S> If you weigh 82kg/180lbs or more, you must be especially vigilant and have your bicycle inspected more frequently (than someone weighing less than 82kg/180lbs). <S> I cannot find a similar statement for the Maddux, but it is not improbable that they have something similar. <A> A common problem. <S> I ran into 180lb weight limits on both wheels AND pedals when putting together my last bike. <S> That seems to be the typical number, so those of us that are bigger than that need to be careful and just expect more frequent failures. <S> Seems like everything bike related is designed for short skinny people. :-) <A> Mavic says 100kg limit for all their wheels. <S> Maybe you should look at a different brand?
|
Lightweight wheels definitely come with weight limits and you should respect them. Check with your mechanic to discuss whether the wheels that you have selected are suitable for your use, and to determine the frequency of inspections.
|
How to straighten a bent derailleur hanger? I've bent (again) my derailleur hanger. It's a replaceable hanger but for this summer I can't get an original one and I know that the non-original one I can get is made in a harder material and could possibly damage the frame. So I'm left with the choice of straightening this light aluminium alloy thing. How do I do that without breaking/weakening it? <Q> Remove the derailleur and use an adjustable wrench to bend it back into shape on the bike. <S> That way you can see when it's straight more easily. <S> Remember to check both vertical alignment and fore-aft alignment. <S> With 5/6/7 speed doing this by eye will be fine. <S> You might get good enough for 8 speed, but with 9 and 10 speed you'll have to be lucky to get reliable shifting using this method. <S> Those setups are just too fussy. <S> I've found that with 9 speed often a couple of millimetres at the rim can be the difference between smooth shifting and constant "not quite in gear" clicking in one or two gears. <S> Edit: this is a classic "trivial with the right tools, impossible otherwise" job on 9 and 10 speed systems. <S> Put the bike in a mechanics workstand, attach the alignment tool, bend the hanger, reattach the derailleur, check the gears <S> and it's done in 5 minutes. <S> The bike shop will probably want to put in a new gear cable and housing for you (because otherwise if the shifting is less than perfect you might blame them rather than the friction in your old gear cable). <S> The fun part, BTW, is finding a replacement hanger if the bike manufacturer no longer stocks them. <S> There are "clone" manufacturers but the catalog of available hangers is huge (often one bike model has different hangers in different years, so unless you know exactly which frame you have the label on the frame might not help much). <A> Also check out http://derailleurhanger.com <S> when you just can't get it straight. <S> The fact that there's a web site out there that only sells derailleur hangers is what makes the interwebs great. <A> I've had luck by removing the hanger and then using a vise to clamp the whole hanger flat. <S> Whatever you do, remember that you've got one, maybe two shots at it...too many bends <S> and it's gone. <A> A caveat... <S> Aluminum is very susceptible to "work hardening". <S> Some alloys are softer than others, and you may get away with it OK. <S> I have done it on one of the department bikes... <S> So far so good. <S> However, there's always the danger the thing will just let go. <S> Better to replace if possible. <A> Video here shows how to do that using appropriate tools and just a simple hex key. <S> The video is in Spanish but images are pretty much descriptive. <S> Note the video has 2 parts. <S> Second one starts automatically after the first one.
|
Bike shops have a derailleur hanger alignment tool that does this much more accurately by screwing into the derailleur mounting hole and letting you gauge position against the wheel rim.
|
Can I jump from small heights on my bicycle? I have recently bought a Merida Matts 40-D bicycle. I didn't buy it for extreme sports, rather for a recreational cycling, etc, but as I'm only 22 years old, it's too tempting to jump down from small stairs when riding through the city. Let's say the height to jump is less than 1 meter and my weight is 74 kg (162 lbs). Can I use this bicycle for such, once in a while, or should I not? I don't want to break it, nor destroy the wheels, etc. EDIT: To further clarify what I mean, I made this simple scheme: So basically, I never hit the stairs, just the ground when landing. <Q> Your bike is designed for riding on rough terrain, like forest trails, roots, take an occasional drop. <S> It should not break after a few drops from low heights, if you apply the technique correctly. <S> Of course, it will shorten its life, so if it becomes regular practice, you should switch your bike from entry level MTB to something more appropriate. <S> You might find stickers on your bike that it is not designed for racing, but just recreation usage. <S> This may put limitations on warranty. <A> That bike should be able to take small jumps like that without much problem <S> but there is always a risk that you will break something (including yourself). <S> Under most circumstances you should break relatively replaceable parts first. <S> The biggest risk as you suggest is to the wheels. <S> If the tires are not inflated enough this is a good way to get a pinch-flat (where the tube gets pinched between the tire and rim as the tire compresses - it will look like a snake bite). <S> You can also knock the rims out of true if you don't have proper spoke tension. <S> But again these are pretty minor issues that any regular cyclist will have to deal with. <S> As @Papuass suggests, technique is important. <S> The key is to let your body ease the bike onto the ground. <S> You can diffuse much of the force with good technique. <S> Basically you want to land just a hair back so that your rear wheel connects first but only just before the front wheel (so that the front wheel doesn't come slamming down). <S> Extend the bike toward the ground with your arms and legs (but don't lock your joints). <S> Use the flexing of your arms and legs to absorb the force of the landing. <S> The key to good technique is to start small and work your way up to bigger drops. <S> If you feel out of control when you land and the bike feels like it is slamming into the ground you should go for a smaller hits until you have the technique. <A> I'm an old guy, 54. <S> Totally, pre-suspension. <S> I went up/down staircases on a bike like yours. <S> Did some jumping. <S> Switched to a road bike mainly for fast cycling. <S> The jumping got old. <S> I like speed. <A> I remember snapping a BMX frame from a big name BMX company, that had ads of pros doing massive grinds down handrails, flips over dirt jumps, etc <S> It snapped only 3mths after buying, and I was refused a replacement due to the warranty small print stating that if it had been used to ride off a kerb was considered misuse. <S> In short theres two main factors that will help you from avoiding damage to the bike when doing drops. <S> Speed <S> The biggest way to 'counteract' gravity, is increase your forward motion speed. <S> Sucking up the impact with your body Biggest mistake people make on jumps or drops is letting the fear kick in and going all rigid. <S> This leads to the impact being taken out on your knees/ankles/wrists/frame <S> You need to use your own body to counteract the fall.i.e. <S> Suck up the impact with your knees. <A> Everyone must start somewhere with every hobby, right? <S> Maybe this isn't the perfect bike for street-acrobatics, but it's not a bad place to start--to begin to get the technique that the other answerers are describing. <S> Ride this one and know that with every drop, you're both shortening the bike's life and increasing your level of experience. <S> Everything has a price, eh? <S> A bike that is never ridden but safely stored will last a very long time. <S> A bike that is well maintained but ridden aggressively will only last a few seasons on rough terrain (I weigh over 200#). <S> It's a tradeoff that we have to make-- <S> but it is important to do so conciously, to avoid wasting a perfectly good bike on a move that won't teach you anything! <S> While you're riding, start saving up for the purpose-built-machine: http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/inspired_fourplay_team_bike_p24.php <A> A bike such as that one should be able to take drops of that kind with no problem. <S> Your front-wheel has springs, so no problem there. <S> It will deteriorate a bit faster of course, depending on how often you do this.
|
With good technique you can drop this thing off of whatever you want (within reason of course) with little risk to the bike or you - but not none :) Have fun! The only issue I see is that your rear-wheel might take a beating if you land on a sharp edge such as the edge of a sidewalk.
|
How practical is an unicycle on uneven surfaces? From my experience riding a bicycle the fact that a bicycle has two wheels makes it rather easy to ride over minor obstacles like minor cracks in the road. Segway also looks promising in this aspect although it's rider's guide is full of "don't do this [usually refers to trying to ride over an obstacle in wrong way] otherwise your Segway looses grip of the terrain and you fall big time" phrases. Now a unicycle has only one very tiny spot of contact with the road. How does one ride over obstacles on a unicycle? <Q> If the word "practical" ever enters your vocabulary, then you really have no business messing around with unicycles. <S> Unicycling over rough terrain can definitely be done, but it ain't easy. <A> I suppose one could legitimately ask how "practical" a unicycle is, since only a very small number of people can be said to have actually mastered riding the things.... <S> However, I have seen folks with amazing skill, and even off-road unicycles equipped with knobby tires... <S> The riders negotiating rocks, logs, and typical off-road obstacles. <S> So... <S> Rider skill obviously a big part of this. <A> Mountain Unicycling (MUni) has become increasingly popular since it came on the scene in the early 1990s. <S> To cope with the terrain, MUni unicycles are better built than regular unicycles often with double-bolted seat-post clamps and a brake. <S> The most famous MUni rider has to be Kris Holm who nowadays has his own range of unicycles and equipment. <S> Here is an example of what is possible.
|
I think the unicycle in motion would be reasonably stable over most "pavement"-type obstacles; cracks, seams, that sort of thing. Riders usually wear helmets and shin/wrist guards due to the high likelihood of a UPD (unplanned dismount).
|
Should I use gloves or track mitts? What are the differences between gloves and track mitts? (other than the obvious lack of covered fingers) <Q> Fit <S> : Track mitts have a very different fit around the palm because the cut does not have to take care of finger length, especially the change of finger length when bending the fingers. <S> You will notice mitts fit snug around the circumference of the palm. <S> This allows to use different materials, which do a better job of protecting the palm from chafing or road rash. <S> Gloves need room at the back of the palm to accommodate the pull of material around the knuckles of bent fingers. <S> In my opinion, track mitts have a much better feel on the palm, even with a comparatively stiffer material. <S> Protection: <S> Track mitts only offer protection from controlled crashes where you land on your palms. <S> Mountain bike gloves are made to protect the outside of the hand, particularly the knuckles. <S> The gain in protection is well worth the downsides in fit and chafe protection. <S> Additionally, rides where you need protection of your knuckles <S> are not as long usually. <S> (Mmmhhhh 100km downhill!). <S> Btw, historically, track mitts started as breaking gloves. <S> 100 years ago, they used to brake with the leather palm. <S> I do have winter gloves that are made specifically for bicycling, and they do a good job of warming the hand. <S> But the more elastic material on the palm shifts all over the place on long ride, despite the seemingly snug fit of the gloves. <S> Btw, I once had some particularly comfortable track mitts that completely failed in the protection department, on a crash the palm material just peeled away from the palm. <S> Go leather, I say. <A> I've used both fingerless track mits and full-fingered gloves. <S> I've found the main difference comes from what you intend to do, and how long you want to do it. <S> Comfort: I found the fingerless mitts a lot more comfortable, making them great for longer rides. <S> This would be especially important if you're looking at touring through a residential area, taking the long commute to work, or otherwise staying on roads. <S> Once the temperatures start to drop however, the comfort of the fingerless mitts is defeated by the cold, so it's a good plan to switch up during these conditions. <S> Protection: When just biking around the city, chances are if there's an accident, having your palms protected by the fingerless mitts is enough. <S> With smooth ashpalt beneath you, your fingers aren't going to do much in assist in breaking your fall. <S> When mountain biking however, every bit of extra protection helps. <S> The full-fingered gloves provide enough protection to keep your hands working well after most collisions, flips, slides, and scrapes. <S> They won't do much to prevent a full-on break, but stopping a lot of scrapes and bruises can be a lifesaver, especially if you use those fingers for your living. <S> Sweat: Both gloves do provide some wicking. <S> The long-fingered gloves pull the sweat from the entire hand, whereas the fingerless only grab the palm. <S> This can make a huge difference on exhausting rides as the grips on the bicycle get covered in sweat. <S> Grip: <S> Although both types of gloves provide additional grips via the palm, only the long-fingered gloves provide additional grip in the fingers. <S> This can provide a lot of advantages if you're worried about aging handlebar grips, or are forced to discard the grips after an accident and cycle back to town using only the raw handlebars. <S> Tactile Sensation <S> : Here is where the fingerless gloves shine. <S> Because they're still fully exposed, you can feel everythign with your fingers as per normal. <S> This means you can quickly pull over to check your cell phone, fiddle with your bike computer, or whatever else you may need to do that requires fine motor skills in the middle of your trip. <S> Although I've come to miss my tactile sensation, I've found the full-fingered gloves to be more useful on the whole and have opted to use them for the majority of my cycling trips. <A> Additionally for both, different gloves come with padding or gel that takes some of the pressure off of your hands to give you a more comfortable ride. <S> Personally I would not ride without them. <S> They make you able to ride long distances because they take one more thing off of your mind while riding.
|
The difference between full-fingered gloves and track mitts, besides for the obvious fingerless part, is that with the mitts you have the added advantage of material that flicks sweat off your hands giving you a more comfortable ride.
|
How do I know which derailleur I need? The derailleur on my sons mountain bike is mangled, how do I know what to replace it with? I understand they aren't one size fits all. There are 6 sprockets on the rear cassette and 3 on the front. <Q> If you have a six-speed rear cogset the bike is either inexpensive or seriously old; such things have long since been replaced by 7-8-9 or 10-speed gearsets. <S> It must have sufficient arm length to handle the range of gears on the cassette or freewheel. <S> Most all DRs have sufficient side-to-side movement, so the factor you're looking for is the length of the "arm" with the two rollers on it. <S> Longer arm, more capacity. <S> If you look at high-end road bikes with very "close" gearsets, you'll see the arm is very short. <S> Look at mountain bikes which have great big low gears, and you'll see longer ones. <S> Also... Cheaper DRs such as found on many "box-store" import bikes often mount on a steel piece that is bolted into the dropout. <S> (where the axle goes) <S> Better DRs mount on a "hanger" which is often replaceable; these may have a different mounting screw. <A> There are two kinds of derailers on bicycles, rear and front. <S> Starting with the front derailer, since it has 3 gears you want to find one that is beefy. <S> What do I mean by that? <S> It must have a lot of groves to move the chain from side to side. <S> If you look at a 2 chain ring and a 3 chain ring derailer you will notice that the former is has a smoother surface to its design. <S> This is because it needs to move the chain less then the 3 chain ring derailer. <S> As if you have too much clearance the bike will not shift properly. <S> For the rear derailer it is a little trickier. <S> Using the old one as your model you want to find a derailer that is about the same size and bends the same way. <S> By bends I mean the amount the derailer stretches out should be consistent with your old derailer as your chain is measured to a certain length and <S> if you get a derailer that has too little bend you could have to adjust your chain length. <S> except not broken of course. <S> If you are not confident in picking out the parts yourself <S> a local bike shop will always be glad to assist you in selecting parts even if you want to do the work yourself. <A> Is the gearing indexed? <S> That is, when you turn the shifter, does it click into place? <S> Or does it turn smoothly? <S> If it is indexed, that will further limit your choices. <S> It might help if you post a picture of the shifter and the derailleur. <S> Read Sheldon Brown's article on gears and derailleurs. <S> It might answer some of your questions. <A> Reason being that rear mechs on 20"/24" wheel 'youth' bikes get damaged all the time (because of how such bikes get dropped onto the pavement). <S> Take the advice of the LBS and ask - chances are that the workshop 'OEM part' is better suited to the bike than the fancy-boxed, priced and with manual rear mech that is in the showroom. <S> It should also be significantly cheaper. <S> To make your task easier you may also want to pickup a fresh inner cable with end-cap so that the end of the cable does not get frayed. <S> Again the LBS may sell you an un-boxed cable from the workshop supplies for less money than the packaged cable in the showroom. <S> Ground clearance is a big consideration with smaller wheeled 'youth' mountain bikes. <S> Do not buy the long-arm mech if the medium length mech will suffice.
|
If you still have the old derailer see if you can find one that matches the size, and if you are fitting it yourself make sure that it has just enough clearance to clear the largest chain ring. Just take the old one with you to the bike shop and they should be able to find a good replacement. At any rate, the important thing with a rear DR is "capacity". A genuine LBS (that does lots of workshop repairs) will hopefully have a spare rear mech for your son's bike although this may be in a plastic bag without a manual in the workshop, probably without a price sticker on it. Basically you want to find parts that model the parts you already have;
|
Bike Size to Human Size Conversion Chart I am just shopping for used bikes right now online. I want to try and save myself a trip to visit the bikes by determining which bikes will fit me. Does anyone have an approximate height-bike size conversion chart or inseam-bike size conversion chart? I know that this will not 100% accurate as Sheldon Brown observes. I was just hoping to get an approximation. <Q> IMO single most important factor of cycling joy is FIT! <S> This is a great tool and worth the effort: <S> http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO <S> I have used it myself and referred countless folks to it, all with great success! <S> Good luck! <A> Would you buy second hand shoes online, not knowing what shoe size you were, particularly if there is the risk that they might have been stolen? <S> Probably not, when put like that! <S> With footwear you know your size. <S> This is something established last time you bought some shoes, probably in a shoe shop where sales staff assisted you. <S> They might have made you pace about and checked where your big toes were - that kind of stuff. <S> They might have also tried you on the larger - or smaller - sizes to get it right. <S> Although shoe shop sales staff are not rocket scientists, some of them are very good at what they do - find people the right shoes, ones that fit. <S> They might take a dim view of those that insisted on only buying second hand shoes off the internet, without even bothering to know their shoe size. <S> Sure there is probably some chart out there on the internet that you can enter your inseam length into and get some shoe size out, but in taking that approach you may never know what a properly fitting is. <S> Bicycles are remarkably similar to shoes in that they have to fit YOU. <S> If you already have a bike, e.g. a 19" frame MTB <S> then you can get another one online of a similar size. <S> But you are not there yet. <A> I found the Rivendell frame sizing article to be quite illuminating during the process of test-riding dozens of bikes to try to discover the proper size: http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41 <S> Ultimately a bike that feels just a tiny bit too big in the store / out of the box is probably the right size after dialing in e.g. seatpost height, seat angle, handlebar height/angle, crank length, etc. <S> If fiddling with the setup extensively is not in the cards, I think you can get an OK sizing by going one or two smaller -- whatever feels immediately 'controllable' off the rack. <A> Kind of depends what you're looking for. <S> For classic, straight top-tube roadsters, a good starting point is "standover height". <S> You should be able to straddle the top tube with your feet flat on the ground. <S> Unfortunately, this is not how bikes are normally measured; "frame height" is measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. <S> Go to a bike shop and look around. <S> Straddle a few bikes and have the friendly shop folks help you get an approximate size. <S> Then go looking for used.... <S> Warning... <S> If you are not an experienced cyclist who knows what to look for then buying used can be fraught with problems.... <S> Also, bear in mind that that straight-top-tube roadster is increasingly a rarity; many manufacturers use a variety of sloping top tubes now which defy measuring in the old-fashioned way. <A> Many times there will also be an approximate frame size-height sizing chart available online as well. <S> I've tried the online fit calculator that GuyZee recommends and it seems to work well for me, for what that's worth. <A> The most comprehensive bike sizing chart <S> I've found is from Wiggle and it also explains how to use the charts. <S> If you'd rather avoid shop-bias then this article also has some explanation and a simple chart at the end. <S> Beyond that you should probably go for a professional bike sizing from someone like BikeDynamics (if you're in the UK). <S> This is pretty cheap compared to the price of a bike. <A> Also have a look at CANYON's calculator: http://www.canyon.com/_en/tools/pps.html
|
You should be able to look up the frame geometry (useful for comparing to an online fit tool) on the manufacturer's web site if the bike is new enough. Yes, you can adjust the seat and bars (much like you can adjust the laces on a shoe) but you still need to get the size right in the first place.
|
Are there any cyclocross/road bike rims that I could buy that will fit on my Cannondale F600 mountain bike? I want to be able to ride my mountain bike on roads, but the sound of the mountain tires on the road is annoying. Can I just buy rims that will fit cyclocross or road bike tires? My bike has disk brakes. <Q> Do you mean rims or wheels? <S> Many cyclists have a second set of wheels for their bike, because it's a lot cheaper than having a second bike. <S> Buying a set of 26" disk brake wheels with narrow rims and putting slicks on them is a pretty common thing for MTB owners who commute on their bike. <S> You might also choose a slightly higher-geared cassette for the road wheels. <S> You will need a second cassette on the new wheel, and a second pair of disk rotors. <S> Two complete wheels, in other words. <S> If you are talking about rebuilding your wheels with narrower rims that's expensive <S> and I think pointless - it will not be much cheaper than getting a second set of wheels, and will limit your choice of offroad tyres. <S> You can mount fairly narrow tyres on most MTB rims, especially on newer bikes as there's been a fair bit of work on making fat tyres work on narrow rims, so racing cyclists can have narrower rims (because they're lighter). <S> The cheapest option is to just buy skinny tyres, but that means swapping tyres every time you want to go off road. <S> Which is why many riders buy extra wheels. <S> Another cheap way is to get a second hand road bike (but be aware that that is a slippery slope and many of us have more than two bikes) <A> It looks like the Cannondale F600 mountain bike has the typical 26" mountain bike tires. <S> It's very unlikely that the larger diameter ("700c") rims used on typical cyclocross or road bikes would work well. <S> However, you can buy smaller, thinner, smoother, higher pressure tires for a 26" rim, and that would solve your problem quite handily. <S> It would also be much cheaper ($20-$50 per tire) than replacing the rims (or whole wheels). <A> If your bike takes 26" wheels, then road/CX wheels won't fit, they're too big. <S> There's also the width of the rear hub; on most mountain bikes it's 135 mm, on road bikes <S> it's 130. <S> Just get some skinny 26" tires, most shops will have them.
|
There are road bikes with 26" rims, typically made for shorter people (especially women and children), so it would be possible to find rims in that size (but would make more sense to simply buy new wheels than to build wheels with new rims).
|
Should the laws be amended to allow cyclists to run red lights? Ignoring the question of whether or not cyclists should or should not break the law by running red lights, should the law be changed such that cyclists are somehow exempt from stopping and waiting? For example, the Idaho Stop Law provides that cyclists may effectively treat stop signs as yields and red lights as stop signs. Has this question been discussed before? Has there been evidence presented that suggests that this is a good or bad idea? Is this sort of legal change in cyclists' favor? Is it something we should fight for, or will it cause more harm than good? What are the arguments in favor and against such a change? <Q> Maybe (or not), at some stop signs: but not at stop lights <S> This sounds like an opinion question <S> so I'll answer it that way. <S> I think it would be okay to allow bicycles to roll through stop signs on residential side streets. <S> After all, a slowly rolling cyclist is likely more aware of their surroundings than a fully stopped motorist. <S> Busy multi-way stop intersections? <S> Probably not a good idea. <S> Here in Ohio at least, motorists have no idea how 4-way stops work. <S> We cyclists would be killed within a week. <S> Stop lights, no way. <S> That's all from a safety standpoint. <S> From a public image standpoint, I think cyclists should obey all traffic regulations to the letter. <S> I have seen far too many kamikaze cyclists cutting in front of cars, riding on sidewalks and not signalling turns. <S> That kind of behavior just fuels anti-cycling sentiment. <S> Cyclists should share the road, not expect special treatment that could promote motorist backlash. <A> Ensure that semi-actuated traffic lights detect bikes <S> Many of the under-the-road sensors which detect waiting traffic and control traffic lights have had their sensitivity adjusted in order to detect bikes : at least on bike routes. <S> On my commute there are <S> I think only two or three intersections where those sensors don't notice me and consequently I might wait 'forever' (or until a car comes along behind/beside me). <S> During the day this doesn't matter (there's enough other traffic to keep tripping the sensors): so <S> I only notice it when I'm on the road alone, at night. <S> I could get off and press the pedestrian crossing button; <S> but instead I stop (completely), wait until it's safe (no cars within 100m), and then cycle across against the light. <S> This type of traffic light happens where a minor residential street crosses a main road. <S> I don't see how that intersection could be redesigned: without a traffic light, in daytime where there's nearly continuous traffic on the main road, the occasional cars on the smaller road would never be able to cross the main road. <S> And it wouldn't be worth putting roundabouts there IMO. <A> Changing a law, even at a US state level, to allow for special provisions for certain user groups is quite hard, expensive and open to all other groups to pressure for other changes. <S> Campaigning for redesigning road layouts to be more sympathetic to the different demands of cyclists and to encouraging other less motor-centric forms of transport is still hard, but has some history of success - e.g. search Google for 'copenhagenisation'. <A> Whether or not it is "legal", the fact is cyclists <S> DO run red-lights. <S> There are solid pragmatic reasons for doing this in certain circumstances and there are situations for which this is NOT a good idea. <S> The problem is that laws traffic laws have trouble handling nuance, so not all jurisdictions can hope to get away with specific laws/exceptions to accommodate cyclists. <S> I think it is OK for the laws to not be changed even though it means that on rare occasions a cop who is feeling persnickety might decide to enforce the "letter of the law" on a cyclist who proceeds through a red-light at a clear intersection. <A> No, they should not be allowed to run red lights. <S> Many fatalities in London are caused by cyclists being squeezed between railings and large vehicles that are turning left where the cyclist tried to get in front of the vehicle which was at a red light, and as the light turned green the driver couldn't see the cyclist as the cyclist was in the driver's blind sopt. <S> Allowing cyclists to go through red lights would increase the occurrence of this as they would be more likely to try and squeeze past vehicles to then go through the red light. <S> What is really needed, as Unsliced mentioned, is better designed road intersections.
|
Redesign road intersections instead of making new laws In most situations where the discussion centres around "there are some examples where cyclists can safely jump a red light" rather than changing the law, often it is an easier to discuss redesigning the road layout, e.g. with slip roads and paths which are not red light controlled, amending a junction to be pedestrian controlled, building a roundabout. Stop lights are usually reserved for higher volume roads and treating them as a stop sign would be dangerous.
|
Which tires are best for on and off road use? My tires are worn out so I want to change them. When I am trying to change them, I want them to be to the best fit for the conditions I cycle in. I cycle about 30 km a day on roads ranging from smooth pitched roads to very rough roads consisting of pits and stones in the most haphazard way. Please suggest a type of tire that would be best for me. There do not need to be considerations for snow, it does not snow where I cycle. <Q> What you are looking for is a hybrid tire with not enough tread to be a nuisance and slow you down on the road, but enough tred so that when you go off road you are not losing traction on gravel and mud. <S> For example Bontrager makes a hybrid tire that is nice: <S> Also, go with the hard wall tires whenever you can. <S> they cost a little more, but they are more puncture resistant. <S> So they will cause you less grief on the road. <A> For example I have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, and I like them (e.g. for 30 km/day) <S> : they are much stronger than my previous tires, and they resist getting flats. <A> I was looking for something similar to what you are now about six months ago. <S> I was looking for low rolling resistance, durability and flexibility on a variety of surfaces. <S> Details at <S> http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php . <S> I'm uncertain as to the availability outside this part of the world, but thought I'd let you know anyway. <S> Good luck! <A> Knobby treads are really only useful in mud, sand, or snow. <S> On roads (even rough ones) they just add extra weight and noise. <S> Of the tires listed so far, the Bontrager and Panaracer tires look like better choices than the NanoRaptor. <S> I've heard good things about the Schwalbe Big Apple as well. <A> First off, you haven't said what type of bike and size of rim you're riding. <S> 26" tires will not fit on a bike with 700c wheels and vice versa. <S> Also, if you're riding a road bike you probably won't be able to fit anything bigger than a 700x25 or 700x28 on it <S> and you almost certainly won't be able to get anything with much tread on it. <S> That said, get the largest tire you can get on your frame. <S> It'll slow you down a bit on the road, but it'll speed you up a lot on the rough patches and smooth out your ride as well. <S> As far as the tread goes, I would look for something with a good number of large knobs on it that are fairly close together. <S> Too much tread <S> and you'll feel it on the road, too little <S> and you'll be slipping around on the pitted and rocky patches. <S> I don't have experience with this particular tire, but this is what I mean by large knobs that are fairly close together: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hybrid+bicycle+tires&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1024&bih=655&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=7981081227657122988&sa=X&ei=gsLoT4WcN-Ps2gXlwOSJCw&ved=0CKoBEPMCMAk4Cg <A> The WTB NanoRaptor (looks like it's now just the "Nano") <S> is one of the more popular MTB tires with pavement performance in mind. <S> It's more off road oriented than the tires that Stopher87 suggests, but still has a nearly continuous center bead that makes it roll smoothly on asphalt. <S> It may work better for you on loose gravel roads. <S> Here is the 29er version: http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/29er/nano-29er/
|
I might suggest you look for a "touring" tire, which I expect is made for reliable long distances on roads including rough roads. Having used them for this time with one flat caused by a large shard of glass, I'm happy to recommend the 'Panaracer T-Serv PT'.
|
Why don't most MTBs have rear shocks? This keeps me wondering. I normally see front and rear shocks on downhill bikes, but when it comes to touring, road, or mountain bikes, almost every one has only the front shock. What is the reason for this? <Q> Price - a suspended frame is much more complicated and expensive to make, and a good shock alone can cost more than a decent rigid frame. <S> Maintenance - both shocks (due to gaskets/seals, lubrication, cleaning) and elements suspended frames (additional bearings) are relatively high-maintenance and short-lived, compared to rigid frames. <S> This also translates into less reliability, especially important in touring/trekking trips. <S> Cost-effectiveness and weight-effectiveness - especially in road biking or touring <S> , it's not such a big deal. <S> Much better to put wider tires or suspended saddle. <S> Pedalling efficiency - even the best suspension systems rob some of the user's energy. <S> In mountain biking, it's more than offset by less energy expended by the rider, who can spend less time out of the saddle on uneven terrain, but in road cycling it's absolutely unjustifiable. <A> Some pro racers have successfully campaigned full-suspension bikes. <S> However, pro racers have big budgets and team mechanics to keep everything ship-shape. <S> A good rear shock absorber can cost more than an entry-level bike... <S> For most off-road riders, they are simply not necessary; let your legs be the suspension. <A> Efficiency: On a suspension bike, some of the energy from the rider's pedaling is translated into the bike bouncing up and down on the suspension, so that's a strike against it. <S> It's much harder to fit racks on a bike with suspension. <S> Although it is possible to do so, such frames are more expensive and can be somewhat finicky to attach <S> : Do a search on any touring forum for "rack" and "suspension" and you'll find many threads asking how to do this. <S> Cost is also a factor. <S> Good suspension systems are expensive, bad ones are cheap and ubiquitous. <S> Also, suspension is just one more thing that can break down . <S> It would be difficult to repair a hydraulic suspension system at the side of a road or in a SAG wagon. <S> (Personally, I hate suspension with a passion because it makes it harder for me to "feel" the road. <S> Ironically, one of the reasons steel is favored among touring cyclists is because it absorbs bumps better than Aluminum, which is said to be "stiffer" than steel, so a group that mostly avoids suspension favors a frame material that has some of the same qualities.)
|
In addition, weight is a factor: Suspension makes a bike heavier, and this is a particular concern with road bikes.
|
What child seats have a quick-release mechanism? I'm looking to purchase a rear child seat for my almost-two-year-old. The main feature I'm interested in is being able to very quickly and easily take it on and off. This Yepp Maxi I saw in a store here in NYC fits the description but it is $210+ and that's more than I wanted to spend. REI link for Yepp Maxi What others are out there? <Q> I know this is a late response but others like me might still refer to this page for advice. <S> (I know I did read up on this before we made our decision) <S> We have just brought a Soosi Flinger bike seat for our 14 month old, 10 kg toddler. <S> He loves sitting in it! <S> It must be comfortable enough as he fell asleep in it during a ride! <S> My husband likes the seat/bracket system because it is quick to take the seat off when he rides his bike to work. <S> Here is a link to the manufacturer's website: http://soosi.flinger.com.tw/sw-bc07-1.html <A> Topeak makes a lot of quick release products that integrate with their rack which has rails for all of their gear to slide into. <S> Here is a picture of their baby seat. <A> At least some of the CoPilot, Hamax, BoBike , Beto and OK <S> Baby seats are quick release and the OK Baby one is lockable. <S> Most will sell you multiple mounts so you can easily use the same seat with multiple bikes. <S> Check the desciption on the seats you're interested in, as I would not suggest buying based on quick release as a major factor. <S> On the other hand, most of them have a mounting system that bolts onto the bike and is tedious to remove. <S> So someone stealing the seat would need to buy a new mount for it. <S> They'd probably just steal the whole bike. <A> I picked up a Soosi 'Flinger' (terrible name for a child seat huh?!) <S> from my local bike shop recently for my 1.5 year old <S> and it has been really good. <S> There is <S> a bracket which stays on the bike but rest can easily be clicked in and out without too much fuss. <S> I was unable to find any info on the company, which is usually a bad sign, but the seat has been good so far, seems strong and my child is comfortable in it. <S> It's not a fancy seat by any means but does the job. <A> We have used a Co-Pilot bike seat for some time and have found it to be excellent. <S> It is quick to fit and release (30 seconds maybe). <S> It looks to be a good deal cheaper in the UK than the one you've found in NYC, not sure where your nearest stockist is, but you can pick them up on Amazon for $99 currently.
|
In my experience almost all of them have some form of quick release, but few are really lockable.
|
24V Vs 36V Brushless DC HUB Motor For Electric Bike I am considering buying an electric bicycle using brushless DC Hub Motor. What is the difference between 24V Vs 36V motor? Is it related to the maximum torque produced by the motor? If yes, what does that mean to a bike rider? <Q> As far as motors go, usually the higher the voltages the more efficient they run. <S> However there is a trade-off because usually the higher the voltage, the less efficient the battery is! <S> Different systems may balance these factors at different points depending on how they expect the system to be used and what parts they have access too. <A> Again, it's the same as with battery powered power tools . <S> Usually the higher the voltage <S> the more powerful the motor is and the higher battery Volt-Ampere-hour ( <S> not Volt-Ampere alone) <S> rating is. <S> More powerful motor will usually (but not necessarily) mean higher torque and that will mean climbing steeper hills at higher speeds and accelerating faster. <S> Higher battery Volt-Ampere-hour rating will mean you have more energy in the battery and can go further on your bike. <S> All of the above implies that both cases have the same energy efficiency which is not always true - motor controllers and other circuitry can have different efficiencies on different bike models. <S> You should get details on the specific models you compare and pick the one you like more. <A> From my electrical theory days way back in my distant youth , higher voltages have less transmission losses for the same amount of power. <S> But higher voltages come with the issue that they need better insulators. <S> This is all to do with :Volts = <S> V = <S> I <S> * R = <S> Amps <S> * Ohmsand Watts = <S> I <S> * <S> I <S> * R <S> All electrical circuits have resistance , impedance (AC resistance) .In <S> theoretically ideal circuits the power is only dispipated in the load. <S> In realistic circuits power is disipated in the load and the power source. <S> This is because the power source has an internal resistance. <S> So higher voltages mean less amps for the same power level. <S> So there should be less power losses internal resistance of the power source and the cables transmitting the power, and thus more of the power gets dispipated in the load. <S> This is a bit of a simplified explanation. <S> Electrical circuits are a trade of between conductor size, insulation size, and safe voltages (that don't fry people).
|
Lower voltages need larger conductors because for the same power level they need more current (amps, I) I don't think you will be able to strictly say one is better than the other, you will need to compare the specs and a whole package and figure out what package suites you best.
|
Are bicycle helmets repairable or disposable? Suppose I wear a bicycle helmet, and I fall hard and my helmet cracks. Do I buy a new helmet or can I try repair the old one with some glue? <Q> They're designed to take the impact of the fall, once they've done the job they can't be used again and you must buy another. <S> It's not safe to attempt to repair a helmet with glue. <A> Summary: <S> Did you crash it? <S> Replace immediately. <S> Did you drop it hard enough to crack the foam? <S> Replace. <S> Is it from the 1970's? <S> Replace. <S> Is the outside just foam or cloth instead of plastic? <S> Replace. <S> Does it lack a CPSC, ASTM or Snell sticker inside? <S> Replace. <S> Can you not adjust it to fit correctly? <S> Replace!! <S> (source: Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute ) <A> Helmet manufacturers recommend replacing helmets after the crash, even if there are no visible cracks, just to be sure. <S> If you see a crack, the helmet cannot do its purpose anymore. <S> Remember, most of us are making money with our brain, so we need to protect it. <A> You should NEVER repair any bike helmet under any circumstances! <S> The helmet manufacturers even recommend replacing a helmet after several years of use. <S> ( Imagine that! ) <S> I don't replace my helmet that often, but do inspect it for structural damage, which occurrs mostly with the styrofoam liner that begins deterorating after some days in the sun and sweat/oils from the skin. <S> I guess we all have to ask ourselves... <S> how much is my head worth if there's an accident? <S> I doubt anyone thinks their head isn't at least worth the $50 to $100 price tag of a helmet every 5 or so years.
|
You might want to replace the helmet if it is getting old (a few years or so) even if there has been no crash.
|
Which waterproof overshoes would you recommend for use with clipless pedal shoes? Last Winter I bought some waterproof overshoes on the internet to keep my feet dry on the daily commute. Unfortunately these overshoes fastened with a velcro strap which fastened underneath the shoe obscuring the cleats in both my road shoes (SPD-SL) and mountain bike shoes (SPD). I managed to get by tucking the velcro straps inside the overshoes and wearing them loose, but they have never really stayed secure that way. Can anyone recommend some waterproof overshoes that: Keep your feet dry Fit snugly and don't come undone on a ride or catch on the bike Have fittings which don't obscure cleats and work well with clipless pedals Are reasonably priced <Q> For serious winter riding (I rode for 12 years all year round in Toronto, Canada, and while we had reasonable weather, it did get wet, cold, and icky a lot) <S> I gave up on clipless, and just used platforms with a pair of hunting boots! <S> Canadian Tire sold -40C and -70C versions. <S> (I rode in -35C in the -70C pair, and I gotta say, my toes were quite comfy!) <S> Tuck a pair of ski pants or waterproof pants over the tops, and that was the driest I ever attained in bad weather. <S> They bend <S> surprisingly well so pedaling is not the issue, and you have good stability in bad weather. <S> You know, if you are sliding, and put down both feet with those big boots, you might still slide a distance, but you can control it better. <S> I never tried anything like you suggest, as based on other waterproof clothes, once it gets wet enough, nothing is water proof. <S> Everything has holes, seals, zippers, seams, etc... <S> They help, no argument, but not all the way. <A> Since you are in the UK, may I recommend one of my favourite brands? <S> Check out the Endura neoprene ones, neoprene works great at any temperature above -5 degrees when they suddenly give up on keeping you warm. <S> You can also wash them and they will take the abuse. <S> The Endura ones are widely available, made in the Far East rather than Scotland (where the posh Endura coats are made). <S> If you want budget, what shoe size are you? <S> Far too often overshoes can get in the bargain bin of a bike shop as the middle sizes sell out leaving dwarf and giant sizes only. <S> Get lucky and you can pick up a set for £10 from a shop that does road bikes. <A> They were very warm and good at keeping out the water, but they were way too fragile. <S> They just about made it through a second winter but had little splits and tears all over them. <S> I reckon they'd be excellent if you were just out for a long ride in the country, but if your commute involves traffic lights where you put your foot, down then sooner or later you'll kick the kerb or the pedal and tear the neoprene. <S> Although it's not quite what you asked for, my advice would be to splash out on some waterproof shoes. <S> I hunted round for a bargain pair of Specialized Defrosters which are brilliant for winter <S> MTBing and commuting - I probably wear them for half the year now.
|
Look out for some bargain bin Altura (or other make/models). I used to use the Endura neoprene overshoes commuting through the UK winters.
|
When is a good time to change tyres due to age? When should I consider changing tyres due to age? The tyres in question are five/six years old Continentals. <Q> I've found that tires that haven't been used or many years can sometimes get cracked and the rubber loses its flexibility, particularly in the sidewalls. <S> If a tire is decades old, still has tread, and the rubber feels flexible <S> , there's no reason to not use it. <A> When you can see cracks in the sidewall it's time to change a high pressure (over 75 psi or so) tire. <S> Lower pressure tires are OK with a few cracks and likely develops cracks sooner anyway. <S> Also change a tire <S> when the tread is worn down such that, with the tire partially deflated, you can feel a soft spot in the center of the tread. <S> When the tire turns into a "slick" it's time to get rid of it. <S> (Rear tires generally wear several times faster than front tires.) <S> Sunlight and ozone are hard on the rubber in a tire, so if a bike is stored outside (even if under a shelter) the tires will need replacement sooner. <S> And tires with gum rubber sidewalls will develop cracks sooner than those entirely of black rubber. <S> Stored indoors (or in a garage or outbuilding) <S> black rubber tires can last 5-10 years. <S> And of course the sure-fire way to wreck a tire is to run it underinflated. <A> Cracked, stiff, brittle, or containing small puncture holes: if your older tires fit any of these four aspects, it's time to swap them out. <S> However, I would also ask yourself if you remember what those tires have been through. <S> The tires may still be flexible and appear uncracked but be full of micro-cracks and punctures that you can't see with the naked eye. <S> These small fissures can be disastrous when you're in the middle of a run. <S> Spraying an inflated tire with soap & water can help find a leak, but many soaps will actually damage the rubber, making that technique counter-productive. <S> Unless you're just planning to use the bike for a quick run to the corner store, remember the old adage: "when in doubt, swap it out". <S> If I obtain a "used" bike, or rescue one being tossed, replacing the tires and the tubes are the first things I do.
|
You can tell a tire is ready to be changed when the rubber is brittle or when you're losing tread.
|
What benefits does a tapered head tube afford? I've just read a review of Tom Zirbel's Jamis Xenith SL on Bike Radar and flicking through the pictures there is one of the head tube with the following caption : Tom Zirbel's (Jamis Sutter Home) Jamis Xenith SL features a tapered 1-1/8 to 1-1/2in head tube - especially useful in a frame of this size What benefits does a tapered head tube afford? <Q> Regarding MTB: The taper allows for a bigger lower bearing while keeping the upper bearing smaller. <S> all the weight applied to the headtube and transmits it to the fork. <S> The upper bearing mostly deals with side forces that try to "bend" the fork, i.e. cornering and braking forces. <S> It also allows for greater contact surface between steerer and crown, which translates into a much more resistant joint. <S> This in turn allows for a longer travel fork that does not require an upper crown. <S> The final result is that you get a more aggressive front end, without the penalty of adding too much weight and also keeping the bike visually light (double crowns look like motorcycle stuff). <S> These characteristics are preferred for All Mountain and Enduro bikes. <S> Another benefit of keeping the upper part of the steerer tube small is that you can still use regular stems and stem spacers, star nuts and top caps, which keeps compatibility with a huge range of components already available. <A> Lighter and stronger are the real gains. <S> Also there is coolness factor. <S> In a rare move I wish to cite Richard Cunningham from Road Bike Action for points 1 + 2: <S> This allows their all-carbon HSC6 fork to be laid up as one unit and in a manner that keeps the unidirectional carbon filaments that support the structure flowing from the fork legs, through the crown and up the steerer tube in a smooth, unwrinkled matrix. <S> The more uniformly that the fibers are aligned where the crown flows into the steerer tube, the stronger the fork will be in its most highly stressed area. <S> Look’s engineers also developed a tapered lower bearing interface that eliminates the stress concentration that a conventional notched-type crown race would cause. <S> The bottom line for tapered road steerers is that, done correctly, it streamlines the manufacturing process and makes for a better one-piece carbon fiber fork. <A> I have ridden both versions of head tubes/steerer tubes - tapered/non-tapered and it is my experience that the tapered version provides much more stability and with frame weights what they are today, more stability is always welcome!
|
Look, who has the longest unbroken history of carbon fiber frame making in pro road racing, uses the tapered fork steerer design to eliminate the narrow waist at the junction of the fork crown and steerer. The lower bearing receives a greater part of the load as most of the time it carries
|
Whatever happened to solid bike tubes? As a child I had solid rubber inner tubes in my bike. They were a pain to get on but after I never had a flat again! Now I've recently started biking again and have had two flats in two days, each resulting in a three-mile walk back home. I've been searching for solid rubber tubes for a few hours now, but have only found them at wal*mart, and they don't have the correct size? (700x38c) Why have they disappeared? I thought they were a fantastic product . . . <Q> You should not be getting multiple flat tires in such a short timespan. <S> I commute on poorly-maintained roads in Atlanta, and have not had a flat tire in 4,000 miles. <S> In order of estimated likelihood, either: your tires are not properly inflated your tires are worn or punctured and need to be replaced <S> you have a sharp object embedded on the inside of your tire <S> you are exceedingly unlucky <S> If you've just started cycling again, I think it's exceedingly probable that you've simply neglected to inflate your tires to their recommended pressure. <S> Standard road tires should be inflated to pressures of 100PSI and beyond. <S> Mountain bike tires (which are awful for road use, but I digress...) require much less. <S> It's easy to grossly underestimate how much to inflate a bike tire, and a standard hand pump will likely only get you to 30-60 PSI before you give up. <S> Take your bicycle to your nearest bike shop and have them examine the situation. <S> Flat tires should not be a common occurrence. <A> Basically, they're harsh and hard on your wheels. <S> A quick look at Sheldon Brown's site will tell you more: Airless tyres have been obsolete for over a century, but crackpot "inventors" keep trying to bring them back. <S> They are heavy, slow and give a harsh ride. <S> They are also likely to cause wheel damage, due to their poor cushioning ability. <S> A pneumatic tyre uses all of the air in the whole tube as a shock absorber, while foam-type "airless" tyres/tubes only use the air in the immediate area of impact. <S> Also, many shops will discourage airless tires . <S> It's certainly possible they may get better given time, though, so it's worth keeping an eye on the situation. <S> To address the other part of your question, they're still available, but a specialty item. <A> To answer the actual question, they are no longer sold in the US. <S> In most locations, they aren't legal to sell. <S> A bicycle tire uses the pressure from the inflation of the tube, (or in the case of tubeless tires, the tire itself is inflated), against the casing of the tire to lock the bead of the tire into the rim. <S> Without that pressure lock, the tires roll off the rim. <S> Certainly, no reputable shop will sell them. <A> Carry a flat-fixing kit. <S> You don't need much; patches, tire tools, something to inflate the tire again. <S> You can even get hand-clean-up goo in handy little packs. <S> With a bit of practice you can be rolling in about the same time needed to change tires on your car. <S> As well, you can take preventive measures. <S> Avoid super-light tubes. <S> Keep your tires properly inflated. <S> Keep an eye out for visible hazards like potholes and broken car-window glass. <A> I came across a solid tire. <S> SERENITY
|
Since a solid tube or solid manufactured tire can't by definition inflate against the bead, they were both abnormally hard to install, and prone to rolling off the wheel in use. So they were considered unsafe, and are no longer sold anywhere that I am aware of. I found quite a few of them on Google Products , although finding them in 700x38 might be a challenge. Small, light frame-mounted pumps are readily available, and if you don't want to pump, CO2 inflators.
|
Brooks B-17 isn't breaking in, how to accelerate the process? I have two bikes with Brooks B-17 saddles on them: My full-frame touring bike: The saddle has a nice patina of age, having been used for several tours and some commuting. My Bike Friday Tikit folding bike: This one doesn't get used for rides of nearly the same length, mostly because I can use the bike with the nicely broken-in saddle. Also, this bike has a more agressive posture than the touring bike, and I keep more weight on my legs than on the saddle; could this be part of the reason the saddle isn't breaking in? I've been using proofride about every six months on both saddles. I've had the Tikit for over a year. The question: Is it possible to break in or age a B-17 more quickly? Right now, it feels more like plastic than leather, and isn't comfortable for rides of more than ten or fifteen miles. Alternately, would attempting to age it and soften the leather damage the leather? Maybe a B-17 is the wrong saddle for this bike? <Q> Wouldn't the simplest answer be to switch the saddles between the bikes? <A> Breaking in a leather saddle is a long and painful process sometimes. <S> There are techniques such as soaking it in oil for 30 min to an hour and then re-applying every few months, but nothing is going to work if you don't get your butt on your seat and ride. <S> It can take as much as 1000 miles to break in a saddle. <S> The best advice I can give is get a nice pair of bike shorts and ride a lot. <S> Also remember to put a coating of proofide on the underside of the saddle to prevent cracking. <A> Check out Sheldon Brown's commentary on Leather saddles. <S> There is a section on breaking in leather saddles about 2/3 down the page. <S> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html <S> Not sure I'd go to that extreme because my Brooks B-17 was comfortable right out of the box. <S> Regardless of how long it takes to break in, stick with it. <S> You'll be rewarded with the most comfortable saddle you've ever ridden. <S> Update: Today I parked my bike out in the sun and applied a liberal amount of proofide to the top of the saddle. <S> The warmth of the sun caused the leather to drink it up very quickly. <S> I applied five coats <S> is less than an hour. <S> When it stops soaking it up, buff off the excess and go for a ride. <A> It may take some mileage to truly "break-in" a Brooks saddle, at which point it will be "perfect" for many folks. <S> However, when it is new it should not be horrifically uncomfortable or even significantly more uncomfortable than a decent quality saddle from other vendors. <S> You know when the Brooks is broken-in when you can see the indentations of your sit bones on the saddle. <S> It took my Brooks Pro about 200 miles to get the indentations and has been a perfect fit ever since. <S> The B17 is a fairly wide saddle that is best for upright bikes. <S> IMHO, if you're in the drops or <S> even somewhat aero, a more narrow saddle like the Brooks Pro is much better. <S> Finally, it could be that the saddle just isn't a match for your butt. <S> Brooks makes great stuff, but they're not for everybody-- <S> no saddle is. <A> I use the Brooks Proofride and apparently, you can use it on the underside of the saddle to help break it in. <S> I found that mine was really comfortable after about 7 months of daily use. <S> That or my bum got broken in! <A> Use Proofide! <S> Ride in light rain! <S> (the saddles molds to you much better when lightly wet - but not soaked) <S> Use padded bike lycras (so you can have less pain in the beginning)! <S> All these methods worked for me very fine. <S> Even so, it took me about four months to really get it on its final shape. <A> I have had success with this method and no problems with cracking or saddle damage. <S> I soak a new Brooks saddle in neatsfoot oil for a day and in a bucket of water for a day then ride it wet. <S> After a 20 mile or so ride you will be amazed how comfortable the saddle will feel. <S> I then use Proofide and tension the saddle as Brooks recommends. <S> I have two B-17 saddles with 1,000's of miles on them including a 4000 mile ride across the US. <S> One of these saddles is 8 years old, the other is 3 years and shows no signs of damage or deterioration. <A> I purchased a Brooks B-17 this year. <S> I used their Proofide on the saddle as suggested. <S> A light coating on the top, work it in, and buff it into the leather, and a coating on the under side of the saddle to protect from possible water flying up underneath from water off of the rear tire. <S> This "under-coating" is only applied one time, and has little to do with the actual break-in of the saddle, just protection of the leather. <S> " It took me about two months and 300 miles or so before I noticed the saddle becoming more comfortable at the end of a ride. <S> This is my first leather saddle, and it seems to be getting better as it is used. <S> I believe with care of the saddle and proper use of the Proofide, this Brooks leather saddle will be comfortable and last a long time! <A> Just get it wet and go for a 50K ride. <S> Done. <S> I did this to my brand new Brooks Pro and after the ride <S> there were a couple of nice dips under my seatbones. <S> Now it´s really confy. <A> One coating with proofide on new saddle. <S> Two oven bakes at 65C for 15 mins with coconut oil. <S> Two oil dips in motor oil finished off in the oven for 15 mins at 65c. <S> Saddle now perfect. <S> From https://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html <S> These products are available from shoe stores and sporting-goods stores, and over the Internet. <S> There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well. <S> Race Across America pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist magazine).
|
Of course, saddle time is the only thing that will get your leather saddle broken in and more comfortable on the "sit-bones. You'd probably end up using the less used bike more and the less broken in saddle more too. In addition to the traditional conditioning methods, he also suggests a rather radical 2-step process that involves totally soaking the saddle in oil for an hour and then going for ride. The easiest and fastest method to break in a new saddle is with a liquid leather dressing, such as neats-foot oil, Lexol, seal oil (a French favorite) or baseball glove oil..
|
What are the advantages and disadvantages to chain wax? I recently bought a new chain for my bike and it came full of chain wax. I was wondering if this was a better lubricant then regular chain lube, or if it had some other qualities that the manufactures thought would be better than lube? <Q> I suspect that it's cheaper for the manufacturer. <S> Or if they're advertising it, it may just be a market differentiator. <S> Regardless, leave it there rather than trying to remove it because it's right inside the chain where you need it. <S> By all means wipe off any excess on the outside, but don't use a chain cleaner. <S> You also get various additives (usually teflon) to reduce friction. <S> Then there are solvents used to remove gunk, like WD40 and kerosene. <S> Despite sometimes being called oils, they are not useful as lubricants except in the immediate "stuck bolt" sense - they evaporate very quickly. <S> The consensus seems to be use wet lubes in the wet, dry lubes in the dry, and caution when discussing the subject. <A> The wax-like chain lube on a new chain primarily serves to keep it from rusting in storage and transit. <S> Oil would leak off and make a mess, while not protecting the chain as well. <S> You can use old-fashioned chain wax on a chain <S> but it's a pain to apply -- basically you have to remove the chain and dip it in melted wax (which was generally thinned with kerosene, creating something of a fire hazard). <S> Modern liquid lubes are available in a variety of "wetnesses" from quite "dry" to gooky-wet, so no need to use old-fashioned wax. <S> (The "dry" liquid lubes basically contain a wax-like substance "suspended" in a "vehicle" that evaporates rapidly.) <S> With modern chain cleaning systems much of this is no longer a big deal. <S> You can easily clean your chain once or twice a week (or after every ride if you wish) and apply new oil, so much less need to worry about "tuning" the lube for the conditions. <A> To my knowledge, chains are not shipped with wax-based lubes. <S> Sheldon Brown always recommended using the chain "as shipped" until the factory stuff wore off... <S> Choice of lubes tends to be highly contentious and engineering types go to great lengths to get every possible extra mile of chain life... <S> Generally, waxes work well but need constant re-application. <S> They do not tend to attract dirt much. <S> Petro-based lubes offer excellent protection but also tend to attract dirt.... <S> Frequent cleaning seems in order. <S> Systems like wax/grease that require you to heat the substance up and then dismount the chain and immerse... <S> Effective but messy. <S> Personally I find normal, petro-based commercial chain lubes seem to work pretty well regardless of brand. <S> I use the "Finish Line" products on the department bikes and a six or seven dollar bottle will last the season.
|
Broadly: oil-based (wet) lubes are more water resistant but attract gunk and turn into black sticky goo on your chain, grease-based (wet) lubes are more water and mud resistant but attract even more gunk, and wax (dry) lubes attract little gunk but wash off more easily. The different types of chain lube have been discussed at length on the web and elsewhere, and to the best of my knowlege the definitive answer is "it depends".
|
Useful and accurate mapping websites: United Kingdom What are your favourite regional online websites or blogs relating to mapping or routing that you find useful and accurate. See also: What are the most useful or interesting cycling-related websites or blogs? Please vote up or down based on the accuracy/usability of these services and post one website link at a time. <Q> CycleStreets CycleStreets <S> is a UK-wide cycle journey planner system, which lets you plan routes from A to B by bike. <S> It is designed by cyclists, for cyclists, and caters for the needs of both confident and less confident cyclists. <S> The service looks to be free, however, funding issues are causing the site's development to be slow, and they accept donations . <S> The site is currently in beta, and has gaps in coverage. <S> There's an iPhone app for the site, and an Android app was in development last year. <S> It also gauges the quietness of the route based on how much of the journey is based on cycle paths and roads, provides an elevation profile and the ability to import your journey to Google Earth or export it to a GPS device <A> This includes a mixture of quiet lanes, on-road routes and traffic-free paths that are often a great way to get to work, school, the shops or just for exercise and fun. <S> The Network is available to everyone and passes within a mile of 57% of the population. <S> If you live in the UK you can order a free information pack which includes a map of national cycle routes for your area and a leaflet for making the most out of your bike. <S> Sustrans created the National Cycle Network . <A> InstaMapper <S> There's a site which I use to save my routes, then share them, called instamapper that I use extensively. <S> It also allows people to log into it and follow you in real time; I used this to let my wife know when to run me a cold bath after a very long ride! <A> Bike Route Toaster <S> I really like Bike Route Toaster <S> it does the job just fine regarding to mapping and allow to upload it directly to your Garmin, and that's all for free. <A> MapMyRIDE <S> mapmyride.com has some UK coverage and is acceptably fast, but some features require membership (like printing cue sheets), and the interface is convoluted. <S> Ads on the site can be intrusive. <S> Unlike other UK mapping services, routes must be generated manually and can take some time to make. <S> It even has trouble with recognizing National Cycle Routes. <A> A quick Google search turned up some decent results that are presented below. <S> Cycle-Routes: Seems to give a good overview of the routes that exist, but doesn't seem to give a point to point route. <S> Could be good if you want the general overview of the area to plan your own route, but I usually look for a point to point route. <S> http://www.cycle-route.com/ <S> Cycle Routes UK (different site similar name): <S> Gives route information filtered by area, distance, path type, and difficulty. <S> Again, it is not point to point, but if you are looking for good routes to exercise or time trial against it seems like a good source. <S> You can even add routes that you know about that aren't in the system and help others. <S> If you are looking for predefined and tested routes this would work nicely. <S> http://www.cycleroutesuk.com/ <S> Personally I use Google Maps with the bicycle directions option, but I am usually looking for commuting routes not exercise routes. <S> Cheers!
|
The most useful feature, the Journey planner provides information you would normally get from any free mapping service, turn-by-turn directions, journey time and distance. Sustrans Sustrans has created a network of 12,600 miles of walking and cycling routes across the UK.
|
SPD shoes that look like normal shoes We all know that SPD shoes can be worn off the bike (that is why they were designed), however there are not many SPD shoes that you would want to wear off-bike. There are even fewer (if any) SPD shoes that look presentable in a smart workplace. As for getting into one of those nightclubs with a strict 'your name's not down' door policy, as things stand, no SPD shoe would get you past the bouncers. If you do know of any SPD shoes that look like normal 'interview grade' work-shoes please tell. If you have looked for such a shoe and not found anything remotely appropriate, what would be in your dream specification? A gore-tex liner? Reflective heel tab? Carbon-fibre reinforced toe-box? I am also interested in SPD shoes that you can and do wear to work and at work, particularly if they look completely different to the 'Shimano Golfing Shoe'(TM) / 'Bling innit' efforts foisted on the cycling public. I know some people do not see any point whatsoever in a SPD shoe that you can wear all day or as part of a mixed transportation journey (e.g. cycle to the train station, catch the train and/or tube...) - it is different strokes/different folks. Some of us want to ride like the Dutch do - everywhere and all the time - but with some decent SPD pedals and sensible footwear. <Q> I wear a pair of Austin Pedal shoes by Keen to work at my government office every day. <S> They're a fine shoe—they look decent and accept SPD's. <S> They aren't anything special. <S> There is no gore-tex liner (I think it'd be overkill for my commute most days). <S> There is no reflective tab, though that would be nice. <S> There is no carbon-reinforced toe-box—also probably overkill for my commuter shoe. <S> I think that they are a pretty good match for what they do. <S> I have worn them to symphony, job interviews, and meetings with the higher-ups. <S> No worries. <S> I guess that, since you really are polling, I would suggest that I wish that they came in more colors! <S> It would be nice if there were more options. <S> I purchased these specifically because they didn't look like cycling shoes—not that I think cycling shoes are distasteful. <S> I did want something that I could wear around though, that would never be a potential distraction for others. <A> These guys make some nice shoes with SPD pedals (MTB style) : http://www.alwaysriding.co.uk/footwear-148/cycling-shoes-218/ <S> An example : <A> They do, but not all shops stock them and it can be a bit of a pain to find them. <S> I've been wearing the Shimano ones for years now and have had three different models so far. <S> That wears off after a few weeks but gets me through the interview. <S> The current pick for me is Shimano MT-32 series in black. <S> I wear them everywhere instead of normal shoes (I keep my "normal shoes" at work <S> so I don't have to wear wet cycling shoes all day in the winter). <S> I looked at them once but decided I couldn't afford them. <A> I did that myself once :-) <S> Cut a hole in the sole of some leather shoes and inserted the nylon foot plate from old SPDs. <S> If you do decide to DIY, I recommend a slightly larger upper so your toes don't get cramped and reasonably stiff leather. <A> How about these? <S> You can make fashionable bike shoes :) <S> Now with Link: http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2011/09/how-to_high-heeled_clipless_bi.html <A> The best answer I've found is the Exustar Stelvio. <S> They have polished leather unventilated uppers. <S> On close inspection they don't quite look dressy enough but they are good from a few feet away. <S> The biggest disadvantage is they aren't sold in this country (USA) but can be ordered from overseas stores like SJSCycles easily (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk). <S> Exustar SP705 Stelvio Leather SPD <S> Touring/Commuter Shoes <A> They aren't really interview caliber <S> but I wear DZR GMT-8's to work everyday. <S> They work nicely for a laid back business casual. <S> DZR has 3 other models if the GMT-8's aren't your style. <S> I think the main reason that companies don't make them is that they don't see a big market. <S> I hope this changes as more people decide to bike-commute to work. <S> DZR GMT-8s: <S> http://www.dzrshoes.com/product/gmt-8/ <S> Chrome Kursk-Pro: <S> http://www.chromebagsstore.com/shoes/kursk-pro.html <S> Here is a picture of a custom job on some dress shoes: http://www.urbancyclistworldwide.com/profiles/blogs/dress-shoes-with-spd-i-never <A> I bought a pair of Shimano MT51 SPD shoes: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17047 and am really happy - they look like a pair of runners... not too formal, but not too 'Bike Shoe'. <S> They are out of production/stock now, however there are similar ones out there... <S> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46681 <S> Or even a pair that look like ordinary runners: <S> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7610 <S> They are not 'Formal', but do look like 'normal' shoes.. <A> These seem great, if only way too expensive http://www.dromarti.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_28_26&products_id=29&number_of_uploads=0
|
If you need more than that there's apparently a company in Italy that does hand-made leather cycling shoes that look very nice (and for the price they should). I get the feeling Shimano always have one "street shoe" in their range, other manufacturers are less consistent. One trick is to replace the laces with plain black ones and colour in the reflective bits with a black permanent marker. You could also try Chrome's Kurk-Pro, but those are even less office appropriate.
|
Recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes Does anybody have recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes? I only have 1 bike, but I use it enough that I think clipless pedals would offer a nice advantage. However, I want to be able to just hop on my bike with any shoes, in the event that I'm just biking a short distance, and going to be walking around a lot. I suppose I could get shoes that are more walking friendly, but I think it would suit me more to have pedals which accomodate both clipless and regular shoes. <Q> I've been using Shimano A530 pedals for that purpose. <S> Mountain SPD-compatible clip on one side, with a nice wide flat platform on the other. <S> I've also used the old Shimano M324 pedals, but prefer the slightly lighter weight and lower profile of the A530s. <S> Note that other foot retention systems, such as PowerGrips and the like, will work with all shoes (such as winter boots) and many existing platform pedals. <A> Crank Brothers Mallets are good for this. <S> They offer plenty of grip (when not clipped in) and aren't too heavy for what they are (472g for mid-range Mallet 2). <S> They are also much more reliable than the earlier Crank Brothers' pedals. <A> I use the very cheap Wellgo WPD982, it depends on your price range, probably you should go for better pedals, but my experience with these has been good and I ride with and without SPD shoes. <A> I'd get a pair of Shimano SPD pedals and get the 'snap on' flats for one side. <S> You'll only be able to clip on one side then <S> but you'll also have flats on one side. <S> As long as the SPD portion isn't raised too much you can probably use them quite comfortably with regular shoes. <A> http://bicycling.about.com/od/allaboutyourbike/ss/bike_pedals_8.htm <A> I've used the Forte Campus/Nashbar Rodeo/Wellgo WPD-95B (all are similar Wellgo dual sided SPD clones with different brand names) for thousands of miles, and am very satisfied with them. <S> There's also the Nashbar Highlander if you want a big BMX-type body on the pedal. <S> All can be found for $30 or so; the Rodeo is on sale for $20 right now.
|
Take a look at the newer "hybrid" pedals that have both a clipless side and a platform side with grip for regular street shoes. Another option would be to look at a downhill style pedal with a large platform on it.
|
Frequent flats with Michelin Pro3's Since switching from the Michelin Pro2's to the new Pro3's I've experienced an increase in puncture flats. Nothing has else has really changed in riding style or conditions. The Pro3 ride much nicer. A bit more supple. But I'm tired of flatting. Are these tires particularly prone to flats? Is there anything that can be done to prevent flats with them? If not, are there other similar tires that are more puncture-resistent? <Q> My answer to this was old school. <S> This won't work with knobbies, but it will work great with street tires. <S> Back in the day, I tried a bunch of things including puncture resistant and kevlar. <S> This will give you a picture of them. <A> The reviewer in this article points out that expecting serious puncture resistance from performnce tires is unrealistic to say the least. <S> However, the reviewer, a self-described heavier rider, had only one flat in 1000+ miles. <S> Several of the comments in this review say they've experienced punctures. <S> However, I'm unable to find any durability comparisons with the Pro2. <S> Just for fun: Have you checked the tires before changing the tubes? <S> Sometimes a thorn or a sharp piece of glass can be hard to find but still flat the same tube in the same place. <S> A rough edge on your rim can also cause pinch flats if your tires are underinflated. <S> Durability and speed are not mutually exclusive properties, but there is a degree of tradeoff. <S> If durability is important to you, I'd suggest looking into a set of touring tires. <S> They'll slow you down a little bit, but you'll get more riding time in. <S> (Unless you bike on some pretty bad roads indeed!) <A> I might have found a reason for your issues. <S> I bought pair of Pro3 tires yesterday <S> and I've installed them right away. <S> After a short test ride, I noticed that small debris from the road stick to the surface of the tires. <S> I've read some reviews about Pro3, and several mentioned this as well. <S> This stickiness could affect tire durability for even casual riding because sharp pieces stuck in one place have time to work themselves into the tire. <A> My experience is similar, thus I am currently testing two other brands. <S> I did move from the Michelins to Conti's Grand Prix 4000 S which have a fantastic feel and handle superbly, but did not last or hold as well to even the Michelin P3's, so I have moved on. <S> I currently have a set of <S> Specialized Turbo PRO's on one bike and a Vredestein Fortezza TriComp on another. <S> Hope this helps. <A> I've got the Pro3s <S> and I average a flat about every 100 miles. <S> They're not cheap either. <S> After I finish off my current supply of them, I'll be trying something a bit more puncture resistant...
|
I have both sew-ups and street tires and it stops the nagging flats from small things that don't puncture on the first pass. I put on tire savers. While it is too early too tell durability, I have not flatted on either set and the road feel and handling is adequate, but not up to par with Michelins or Conti's.
|
Which size spoke tool. Currently size 14 I have this spoke tool. The number I use on this tool is 14. I use it on a hybrid mountain bike. . I want to get one which is easier to use but I do not know which size. Here are the available sizes. For 3.20mm/80 ga./0.127" nipples, black vinyl coated. For 3.45mm/80 ga./0.136" nipples, red vinyl coated. For 3.30mm/80 ga./0.130” nipples, green vinyl coating My guess is the red one in the middle. Hoping for someone to confirm my guess. Thanks you Edit by Moz: Bounty offered for a conversion chart or link to one . Those numbers seem more or less consistent on the three of those tools I found, so somewhere there has to be a reference to the expected sizes (unfortunately theres +/- .1mm wear on the ones I have as they're old and cheap). The suppliers I've found all just say "fits all sizes" and don't list what the sizes actually are. <Q> I found these sizes from various shop pages which are not worthy for linking here. <S> So in answer to my own question: 8G = ? <S> 10G = <S> 5mm11 <S> G = <S> 4.4mm12G = <S> 3.96mm13G = <S> 3.7mm14G = <S> 3.45mm15G = 3.3mm <A> If you really cannot get to a bike shop I would suggest that you just order a red 'Spokey' online. <S> It is unusual in the UK to have to get the yellow 'Spokey' out (for Japanese wheels) and I would be surprised if your hands were so different that a different tool to the legendary 'Spokey' was needed. <S> There are distance selling regulations that mean whomever you order from it is okay to send back the spoke keys that did not fit. <A> The numbers on your current gauge are almost certainly inverse inches for the nipple size that that gauge spokes used to take. <S> I can't find a reasonable chart online for the conversion <S> and I have never tried to do it myself. <S> I think this explanation is probably correct - the cost of buying all three is low and the chance of getting it wrong is high. <S> Just buy one of each and be done with it. <S> The suggestion in that link of visiting your LBS and asking them to work it out and sell you the appropriate size is probably the best fallback position. <S> It may be more expensive than buying all three online, and the chances of finding a nipple that's the wrong size for your one key is also high. <S> Probably not on your current wheel, but on the next wheel you try it will happen. <A> I refurbish a lot of old bikes and I use a wrench like you show... <S> There appears to be little uniformity. <S> However, If you're just dealing with YOUR bike you should be able to pick the right one at the shop... <A> Yes, you want the red one for 14ga spokes. <S> Just a regular Park Tool (Red) is good enough 99% of the time, but if you are having issues with stuck spokes or rounding off the nipple, the only way to go is with a DT Swiss 4 sided wrench like in this photo. <S> I do a lot of wheels every day, so the higher price of the DT Swiss wrench was worth the investment for myself, but for the average guy working in his garage, it's not. <S> Unless you just need to have the best of everything.
|
These days there are fewer spoke sizes in common use and only one common thread and nipple size. I don't think you have the right guess. If you cannot get to the shop and you are unwilling to gamble on the red 'Spokey' being the right one, just order all three.
|
What is the recommended procedure for adjusting the fit of my bike? I have a road bike which is a reasonable fit, what is the recommended procedure for adjusting the seat position and handlebar height to get the "perfect fit"? A complete answer should include what order to make adjustments; how to determine height of saddle, fore and aft position of saddle on rails and height of handlebars. Also what testing is required. Is this all done on feel or are there basic measurements and mecahnics that affect the adjustments? Does it help to have a turbo-trainer and large mirror or video camera? Do the same principles apply for hybrid and/or mountain bikes? What changes to the process are needed for other bike types? I know that this is a service you can pay for at some pro-cycling shops, but since I have a number of different bikes, I would like to be able to get a good fit for each of them at home for a minimal layout. And also, by understanding the process and doing it myself, getting a better understanding between me and the bike... <Q> There's quite a lot of discussion on the subject of fit, and some folks have considerably different ideas in this regard. <S> I use the old-school methods to get close, then try to "dial in" things according to what my body tells me. <S> It's hard to describe... <S> Essentially the leg should not be fully extended at the bottom of the stroke. <S> Just short of being fully extended. <S> The thigh should be more-or-less level at the top of the stroke. <S> The fore-and-aft measurement is often neglected or even ignored. <S> That's assuming you're sitting on the saddle properly, with your "sit bones" on the heavily-padded portion of the saddle. <S> Saddle attitude is one of personal preference; I prefer just a few points nose-down from dead level."Reach <S> " is somewhat dependent on the type of bike. <S> On roadsters, you want the reach to the hoods such that you can ride with a relaxed upper body at a reasonable angle. <S> Some authorities advise such-and-such a percentage of weight on the hands, and such-and-such on the seat. <S> You don't want to be totally supporting your upper body with your arms. <S> I've seen folks who maintain that these things are "all wrong", and propose all sorts of ideas for getting the perfect position. <S> I know I can ride comfortably and without hurting anything using these methods.... <A> I concur with M. Werner & previously used this answer (someone down voted :-O) for similar question: IMO single most important factor of cycling joy is FIT! <S> This is a great tool and worth the effort: <S> http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO <S> I have used it myself and referred countless folks to it, all with great success! <S> Good luck! <S> Added for this post: <S> Once you take the measurements and input the data into the fit calculator, you can email yourself the results. <S> Over the years I have been able to move from bike to bike focusing on two measurements which were initially provided by the fit calculator: 1. <S> Saddle Height2. <S> Cock pit length which is the tip of the saddle to the handlebar. <S> Also, I have been professionally fitted and came out with identical set up as I did when I did the recommended fit calculator. <S> Order of adjustments based on the methods described by M. Werner:1. <S> Set saddle height 2. <S> Set fore-and-aft of saddle (I use a level here and strongly recommend using one) <S> Once saddle position is set move to handlebars/stem, 3 options here: Use Competitive Cyclist's recommendations Visit LBS and borrow/rent use an adjustable stem to determine correct angle and length based on trial and error. <S> Or lastly, I would refer to personal comfort in terms of how much stress/stretch you desire for your back - the old rule of thumb is while mounted on bike you want the intersection of the handlebar/stem mounting point to obscure the view of your front hub. <S> Whatever path you decide, my recommendation is to take and record the following measurements, the two main #'s I use as I move from bike to bike:1. <S> Top of saddle to center of bottom bracket2. <S> Tip of saddle to handlebar Hope this helps! <S> Any questions lmk! <A> I use many of the same techniques that @M.Werner recommends. <S> Get a general fit and then tweak as needed. <S> Generally I will take a guess at where things should be and then climb on. <S> It is usually obvious when I'm way wrong. <S> For a little fine tuning I will balance with a counter top or the like and then pedal backwards for a bit, obviously doesn't work with FG, hopping off and making tweaks. <S> I find I get a better idea for how well honed <S> my setup is by actually riding than by measurements. <A> It depends on what type of riding you're doing. <S> My bike is currently set for ankling which requires a slightly higher seat set. <S> I've found that the orientation of the settings on the bike depend on style of riding. <S> Personal preference is to set the seat height by sitting on the bike with leg straight and toe slightly up. <S> Then the handlebar height is set, and finally the orientation of the saddle. <S> What this does is <S> gives me the most power as I reach the bottom of the stroke.
|
Seat height should be such that you can easily pedal "circles" without rocking or stretching, nor by over-flexing the knee. The final tweaks I make come from riding around noting changes to make and then when I take a break or am ready to turn around I make adjustments. Again, the classic measurement is that with the pedals level (3 and 9 o'clock) a plumb line dropped from the bony process just below your kneecap should intersect the pedal's shaft. The seat should be slightly lower for less competitive riding style.
|
Train cycling legs for a long walking trek Cycling is my sport. I'm training for a multi-day ride (four days). Each day will we be hard riding but not too long. The week before the event however I'm going on a four day trek with a 20kg backpack. I'm happy to lose some form for the event and have a great time treking with friends. However the last time I did a trek like that my legs were toast for a whole week afterwards. The uphills were a breeze but it was the 20km downhill that killed me. My legs are made for pushing pedals, not going downhill! Any advice on the minimum amount of training to survive the walk and be good to go for the cycling event? <Q> I'm with you on this. <S> My summers often include a mix of cycling and hiking/backpacking, where cycling is the dominant activity. <S> Two things that have helped me. <S> The major one is to use trekking poles . <S> I discovered trekking poles one summer after breezing through some difficult rides, and then being devastated on a not too serious hike. <S> The poles significantly reduce the leg impact, especially on the descents. <A> Put yourself up for a charity parachute jump - solo, none of that piggy-back nonsense. <S> The training for this - all that jumping off things and rolling around on the ground stuff - is intensive 1-2 days and you will have some ex-army type bullying you to do it. <S> Deliberately mess up a barrel roll on the test <S> so you have to do it all again for added punishment. <S> After your parachute jump you should feel like you have already been on your four-day trek, by the time it comes round your muscles should be good and ready for it. <S> To get a last minute place on a parachute jump course you can phone up your local center or charity organiser and take the place of whomever has dropped out. <S> There should be a place on the weekend a week before your trek. <S> It will not matter if you do not get to jump (due to the weather) that bit is easy. <S> The training is what you want to loosen up your cyclist body. <A> Andrew, without knowing how much time you have to train before the trek, I cannot provide an answer to that portion of the question. <S> Time between trek and ride is 4 days... <S> much of this has to be based on how stiff, sore or banged up you feel, but this is an idea of what I would do. <S> Day 1 - Lots of rest, hot bath, and massage. <S> Ride bike on lightest gear for 20-45 minutes. <S> Lightly stretch - focus on core and lower body. <S> Eat only natural, organic, healthy foods and lots of liquids. <S> Day 2 - Same as above but increase spin time to 30-60 minutes. <S> Day 3 - Same as above, but do an hour on the bike and if your body can handle it, stand out of the saddle and use the gears to add resistance, nothing crazy, but you want to push some blood into your muscles... <S> if you are still way too sore - just spin lightly as described above, but increase spin time to 60-75 minutes. <S> Day 4 <S> - If you were not able to add resistance on Day 3 do so now. <S> My experience is an active yet gentle recovery works best. <S> Your legs are going to want to stiffen up, so the main goal is to keep them warm and loose! <S> If no one will give you a massage, I suggest buying a massager. <S> This is the one I use <S> and it is awesome! <S> http://www.thumpermassager.com/thumpersport.html Good luck! <A> Run training would prepare you for the impacts. <S> If you don't have any hills handy, you could try running 15 minutes every day for 2 months. <S> That was enough to get me through a mountaineering camp of 7 days. <S> Lots of mountaineers run when there are no mountains. <S> I know how ones legs can hurt after a downhill walk. <S> I've done mountain walking since I was very young, so I guess I should know this. <S> The trick is basically this: <S> the faster you go down, the less they will hurt from acting as brakes. <S> So I guess you could practice that if you have some steep hills in your area (yeah, that's possibly dangerous. <S> So is cycling). <S> If you have to be slow, then increasing steps per meter is possible too. <S> If the shocks are less big, your thighs will hurt less. <S> Watch your technique. <S> Keep the knees bent, never let those catch the blows. <S> You could think of it as letting your feet become like a wheel. <A> Try to do one leg squats, is a very good way to train your legs.
|
The fact your legs hurt is good. The second thing is to cross-train between hiking and cycling; but that depends on your personal time constraints and goals. If you were able to do resistance on Day 3, then spin 60-90 minutes extremely light.
|
Best brake pads for long distance travelling? Me and a friend of mine are going on a long bike trip (which will take us a month) and we're finetuning our bikes for this. We will be bringing about 14kg of luggage each, only riding on paved roads (with the occasional badly paved road). We leave here in Belgium, riding as far as we can in one month, towards Italy. What would be the best type of brake pads for this purpose? I'm thinking of several aspects here: Brake-safety, even when wet noise ease of mainenance I wouldn't like too much wear on my new rims <Q> In that way you can setup the brakes once so that they have perfect toe-in (small gap at back <S> so they do not squeal) <S> and so that they hit the rim dead-centre (not at an angle, falling off the bottom or hitting the tyre). <S> Then, when the brakes get worn you can simply replace the inserts and not have to start again with the setup. <S> Due to different places selling different stuff and having made an investment in your setup, it then becomes a matter of what are the most widely available inserts. <S> In the UK this probably means the 'Aztec' brand. <S> From my personal experience the after-market Aztec blocks and shoes are better than the cheeze-o-blocks that Shimano supply. ' <S> Kool Stop' are also pretty good and widely available in selected markets. <S> As for choice of rubber, if you are undecided, what is wrong with dual compound? <S> In that way you get durability and stopping power all in one. <S> I am not wanting to specify a shop/endorse a brand, however, here is what you should be looking for (as Googled earlier) . <S> You can always try the different compounds to see what works best front/rear, what wears your rims out quickest (soft on rear is a good idea as rear rims wear quicker) and what fits your budget. <S> Moving forward, the replacement shoes are a double whammy of time savings and money savings. <S> Not only are they quicker to replace, they are cheaper and you do not lose your settings. <S> And finally... Enjoy your tour! <A> I have no qualms about recommending a brand because I ride 3000-4000 miles a year and have tried and worn out a lot of different brakes. <S> Next best is the Kool-Stop Mountain Salmon, which are suitable for all bike types (not just MTBs) with non-linear-type rim brakes. <S> These have a bit less durability than the dual compound pads but slightly better stopping power. <S> For info only (not an endorsement of any particular bike shop): http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#mountain <A> I do a lot of touring and really like the Swissstop Viking brake. <S> They are great in the rain, easy to install, and last a long time. <S> Have a good tour! <A> I've been using Manthauser Pads for more than 30 years. <S> Don't know if they came up with something better. <A> When I upgraded the brakes on my Surly Long Haul Trucker in preperatio for what was planned to be a 5,000 km tour which turned into a 3,000 km tour <S> I fitted Koolstop Tectonic v-brake shoes . <S> Koolstop describe them as .. <S> come[ing] with a multi friction compound set up, but single or dual compounds can also be configured. <S> I have found them to work well on a loaded touring bike in dry and wet conditions. <S> Without a doubt the whole upgrade to the bike (going from cantilever brakes to v-brakes) was a significant improvement. <S> How much is just down to the pads I cannot say. <S> BTW those pads are still on the bike.
|
Hands down, the best pad for touring that I have used is the Kool-Stop dual-compound mountain shoes but they are unfortunately for linear-pull brakes only. The trick with rim brakes is to get ones with replaceable blocks.
|
Bike Repair Information in Germany I have been riding a bike for many years now, but I am embarrassed to tell you all that I am an novice when it comes to repairing and maintaining bikes. I have always had a problem with repairing bikes. I am very interested in learning about bike repair. I want to build a custom bike someday... :) I would be open to do some volunteer work and learn on the job. I do not have all the tools or the workshop to learn on my own and cannot afford these... If someone have some information where I can approach, I would be really glad. EDIT: I study in Germany and am looking for some information specifically in Germany :) I am extremely Sorry, if its not the right forum to post such questions... <Q> Not to worry! <S> Get yourself a part time job in the local bike shop in a supporting role - maybe not sales (unless you have the product knowledge), maybe not the workshop but something in between. <S> Start with what you can do - punctures, wheeling bikes in and out the yard, keeping the place tidy. <S> A couple of weeks later have a go at assembling bikes. <S> You will know if you are going to like it by then. <S> The cycling season has started it should be all hands to the deck in your local shop, show confidence and enthusiasm and you won't go wrong. <A> If you want to be knowledgable on the level of a professional mechanic, Matthew's answer is the way to go. <S> However, until you can find such a position, learning more about bikes will only help. <S> While I can't speak to resources in Germany, I can tell you that I've learned bicycle repair from three sources: from friends, asking questions at my bike shop, and reading online. <S> I have a friend who's a part-time bike mechanic, so that's obviously helpful. <S> I try not to impose on him too much, but he enjoys talking about bikes--what rider doesn't? <S> Your shop: When you bring your bike in to be repaired, ask questions. <S> See if they'll let you watch while doing the repair. <S> (If they're secretive about what they do, perhaps finding a better shop should be a priority.) <S> Finally, the internet: The most comprehensive bike site on the net is, without a doubt, the site put together by the late, great Sheldon Brown . <S> It's in English, but the writing is good and easy to follow, and covers a broad range of topics. <S> Some of these essays are parodies, most are serious, but all have good points to make. <S> Youtube has a great many bicycle repair videos , and that's how I've learned how to adjust a hub and use a chain tool. <S> Can anyone speak to the quality (or existence) of any repair videos in German? <S> While you wouldn't be able to follow along, not having a shop or tools, watching the procedures will help familiarize you with them, so that things will go more quickly when you're in a shop later on. <S> This very site. <S> We have users all over the world, and there are many questions here on maintenance that have already been answered, and please feel free to ask more if you see a gap. <S> We also have a Terminology index you can consult (and even add to). <S> Sorry <S> I can't answer your question about local resources, but learn as much as you can on your own and you'll be better equipped to take advantage of local opportunities when they come along. <A> Look for a local bike co-op or bike recycle group, often called "send bikes to poor countries" or similar <S> (our local ones are "bikes for africa", "bikes for refugees"). <S> Or even a local cycle club. <S> They tend to focus more on riding but might know of the other groups. <S> I don't know specifically about Germany, but in Australia most major cities have some sort of group like this. <S> Finding them can be somewhat tricky, as they're often not very well advertised. <S> Usually they are well connected with other cycling organisations. <S> The other avenue is bicycle maintenance courses, run either by local bike shops or as night classes by educational institutions. <S> Again, ask the shops and look at the websites for the shops and schools. <S> I would focus more on finding people near you who have websites. <S> Be prepared to volunteer time to whatever their cause is in exchange for help.
|
I would start by asking bicycle advocates, at bike shops and searching the internet. If you have a cycle person in your local government they would be an excellent person to ask, even if their title suggests they only deal with infrastructure (bike paths) or law enforcement. Since you don't have the tools or workshop yourself, looking at how-to sites on the internet is less useful to you.
|
Choosing a foldable 20" bike: Schwinn S2280 vs. Citizen Bike Miami At the moment, I'm in the market for a foldable 20" bike, for commuting purposes. I've done my research, and have found two appealing models: Schwinn S2280 Citizen Bike MIAMI Which of them would you recommend? How are they different? Any differences in terms of weight, ease-of-use, ease-of-tuning, stability, accessories, size, portability, durability, joy-of-use/misery-of-use (it's for my dad)? <Q> I think the real difference is the weight: Schwinn 47 lbs, Citizen 32 lbs. <S> That's substantial. <S> If your dad is going to be carrying it much that 15 pound difference will really count. <S> My impression is that the Schwinn is compromised to get the low stand-over height, and everything follows from there. <S> That can be important if your dad has limited mobility, but if it's not essential don't buy a bike that adds 15 pounds to get it. <S> Realistically the rest doesn't add up to much - they're both bottom-of-the-range <S> folding bikes that use cheap components and will probably not last very long (a thousand miles or so). <S> I think you need to be clear what you want the bike for and what you expect from it. <S> If your dad is too heavy or rides too much the bike will fall apart quite quickly. <S> Both bikes will be heavy, unwieldy luggage when folded. <S> they might go out of true easily and look hard to fix. <S> But they look pretty. <S> The Schwinn is 7 speed, the Citizen 6 speed, but that's pretty irrelevant as neither bike will cope well with hills or high speeds. <S> the bag is $29 extra. <S> If that's important to you, it adds 15% to the price of the Citizen. <A> I'm late to this thread, sorry, but ... <S> I've tested out all the folding bikes at my local bike shop, Dahon and schwinns mostly and ended up buying the Citizen Gotham Large frame. <S> It's a 7 speed 22lb street cruiser, aluminum frame, with all the bells and whistles. <S> I got the seat upgrade for $29 and makes a huge difference for long distance riding. <S> All in I paid about $350. <S> I've been riding it almost 2 years <S> and I'm just bringing it in for a little tweaking now, no parts failures at all. <S> Ill tell ya this, even with the bigger frame at 6' tall I find the bike to be barely just big enough. <S> If your dad is taller than me I'd go with a Dahon, they're more money by 2-3x but their frames are bigger. <S> My wife has the Miami model you mentioned, also a great bike! <A> I can't stress this enough: <S> I have a Tern (offshoot of dahon) <S> and my gf has owned an older citizen and a newer citizen cuz one got stolen. <S> I take the train to work and carry my bike on with me and ride the rest of the way. <S> Although citizen has excellent customer service, you definitely get what you pay for. <S> The derailleur is total crap, the gearing is terrible except for the slightest hills and the fold is so sloppy, you'd be better off with a non foldie. <S> Dahons/terns come with quality components, fold smoothly, quickly, <S> an stay folded and my god are they lighter which is a huge deal. <S> Plus, Terns hinges are super beefy and easy to use. <S> Check out the Link D8 <S> and I swear it'll fit ur every basic need from hauling gear, weekend cruises, and long 30 mile treks. <S> Tires, brakes, gears, the Tern has it all. <S> Get the luggage rack and fenders. <A> I have the Miami CitizenBike. <S> This may sound like heresy, but I prefer it to my Dahon Eco: better riding position, ease of configuration. <S> If I had known I was going to like the Citizenbike so much <S> I would not have bought the Dahon. <S> I just bought another (the Tokio, 16", 6 speeds), waiting for it to arriveEnd of my two cents. <S> No: I don't work for Citizen bike <S> , neither I am a disgruntled Dahon user. <A> I recently bought VELA <S> Pearl White folding bike from a Canadian Company called Vela bike . <S> I personally think Citizen, Schwin, and Vela bike all have the similar specs, but for sure VELA folding bikes are better looking than Citizen or Schwinn bikes. <S> For $300 ranged aluminum folding bike, there are limits in the good designed folding bikes in the market in the U.S.I am very happy with my purchase.
|
I would be concerned about the wheels on the Schwinn, the "6 spoke" pattern wheels look like a gimmick to me. But I think the Citizen is a (slightly) better bike - they've focused on a basic bike with basic components rather than paying extra for marketing bullet points ("sprung saddle", "pretty wheels"), so they can spend a tiny bit more on slightly better parts. The Schwinn comes with a bag, for the Citizen BUT if u absolutely have to only spend 200, the citizen is by far the better choice.
|
Effects of design on speed? I'd like to understand more about how the design of a bike affects its speed (assume a normal, two-wheeled bike with gears). Can I assume that weight has little effect, on level ground, except when starting and stopping? If not, why not: what is the effect and how big is it? Are the two biggest factors wind resistance, and tire rolling resistance? Can you point me towards data for the above: Rolling resistances for various types/sizes of tire at different speeds Wind resistances for different rider positions at different speeds Specifically how much difference is there between e.g. a 700x23 mm tire, and a 700x32 mm tire at 90 psi? <Q> I like to use an excellent power calculator to answer questions like these. <S> Play with the numbers, and you can see the exact effects on wind resistance of different rider positions or changing the type of tire. <S> In short, at race speeds, wind resistance requires by far the most power to overcome. <S> It ends up being anywhere from 85%–90% of your overall power expenditure. <S> For example, with that calculator, it takes a fully-crouched 150lb rider somewhere around 650W to maintain a 35mph pace. <S> Remove air resistance entirely and it only requires an astonishing 50W. <S> At the same power output (650W), with no air resistance, the same rider could reach a ridiculous speed of 475mph. <S> Sheldon also covers the topic, providing an excellent cost–benefit breakdown for various aerodynamic improvements. <S> And Wikipedia makes the claim that "lowering a bike's weight by 1 lb… will have the same effect over a 40 km time trial on flat ground as removing a protrusion into the air the size of a pencil". <A> As others have mentioned, air resistance is a big factor. <S> If you look at the formula for calculating drag , you'll see that the drag is a function of the square of the speed. <S> This means that the drag a 5 mph would be 25 times the drag at 1mph and the drag at 10 mph <S> would be 100 times the drag at 1 mph. <S> For 30 mph you have 900 times the drag of 1 mph, even though you're only going 30 times as fast. <S> So as temperatures get lower, your air resistance increases. <S> Because of this, wind power generators get more electricity when in colder climates, assuming the wind speed is the same. <A> In answer to another question moz posted this link to a IHPVA research paper , which includes (on pages 15 though 17) results of testing the rolling resistance of different tires, at different speeds and pressures. <A> The faster you go, the more air you're pushing. <S> The ultimate bike speeds are obtainable through "motor pacing", wherein the cyclist rides in the aerodynamic "bubble" behind a fast vehicle like a truck or a locomotive. <S> These bikes are so high-geared as to be unrideable at lower speeds, and they are decidedly not light... <S> Does illustrate the importance of air resistance.
|
Note that though impractical for most uses, the speed figures for streamliner and other highly-aerodynamic designs are far greater than anything obtainable from a "normal" bike. Also of interest is that colder air actually causes more resistance as it is less fluid than hot air.
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.