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Removing lubricant from the rear brake and rim? I accidentally got lube on my rear brake (v-brake) and my stopping power seems diminished. What is the best way to get it off the brake pads and the rims? <Q> Clean them. <S> I'd avoid using any sort of solvent, as it would be bad for the pads and might simply make things worse. <S> First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly. <S> Scrub pads and rims with a dab of detergent on a rag, then hose down to remove the detergent. <S> Reattach noodle. <S> (I always forget that part.) <S> The brakes will likely still be a bit "slippery", but riding with the brakes partially engaged for a minute or two should bring things back to normal. <A> Loosen the V-brakes, so you can access the pads (you can even remove them and clean each individually). <S> Then apply degreaser to them <S> (there are many types, I end up by using a citrus-type or in some more radical cases even use petroleum on the rim, but make sure you clean it with a rug afterwards!). <S> NOTE : using a solvent or petroleum can damage some parts of your bike, so make sure you test it first and definitely don't use it on rubber! <S> Do the same to the rim. <S> Clean it very well with a rug and check if there is any trace of grease, if it has, try to degrease it further. <S> When everything is ok, just reassemble the brakes and test it, if you did everything correctly then it should work ok! <A> You should take the opportunity to give your wheels and brake pads a good clean. <S> A bucket of hot water with half a tablet of clothes washing powder and whatever brush you can find will do the job nicely. <S> Wash off with more water and the accumulated dirt on your rims plus the lube will be gone. <A> My recommendation is to use a rag and de-greaser like Simple Green. <S> Apply the solution to your rag, wet pads let the liquid do its thing and wipe clean/dry. <S> If that does not work, repeat. <S> If after doing that twice you are not getting the appropriate braking power, I would gently sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper. <A> V-brake pads are rubber. <S> Degreaser can (but not always does) damage rubber. <S> use isopropyl alcohol. <S> It will remove the grease without damaging the rubber pads. <S> It may take multiple applications. <S> Clean the rims with it as well. <S> Quoting from Daniel's answer, with edits: <S> First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly. <S> Scrub pads and rims with a isopropyl alcohol on a rag. <S> It will evaporate. <S> Repeat as required. <S> If more is required, sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper. <S> Reattach noodle. <S> (Everybody always forgets that part.) <S> Hope that helps. <A> I'd use Simple Green or a similar mild degreaser followed by denatured alcohol to eliminate any residue. <S> Make sure and thoroughly rinse Simple Green off your rims and pads using water, it makes the brakes grabby, loud, and yet ineffective if you leave it on.
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You could also lightly sand the brake pads to get rid of the contamination.
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What parts of a bike could potentially be harmed by degreaser? I'v been using citrus degreaser to clean my bikes for years. I usually get a gallon jug of it from the auto parts store, and it lasts a long time. I use it for cleaning the drivtrain, either using a chain cleaner or by soaking the chain overnight. I've used it with a rag to clean the rims. I'll sometimes even use it to scrub a nasty bit of dirt or grease off the frame. However, some of the discussion in this very good question has got me wondering: Are there parts of your bike that can be damaged by degreaser? Obviously, keep it away from the bar tape or a leather saddle, but what mechanical parts could be harmed by citrus degreaser? Also, are there types of degreaser out there that are gentler and could be more appropriate? <Q> Degreaser acts like a solvent (although I'm unsure if it is technically a solvent, or more of an emulsifier). <S> With all solvents you'll have to be careful with what they contact--however degreaser is relatively safe compared to stronger solvents. <S> Each type of solvent has its own list of things it will dissolve--and even brand-to-brand can make a difference, so spot-testing is always recommended. <S> In general though, the risky things are: Rubbers Adhesives Organics (leather, etc) <S> Porous materials <S> Paints <S> (obviously) Grease/lubricants <S> Your main concerns should be your tires, your paint, and (as you mentioned) components like grip-tape and seats. <S> Getting degreaser on these has the potential to stain--so extra precautions may be in order. <S> Typically your best option is to try and prevent it from contacting them, and cleaning it off quickly with mild soap & water if you do make a mess (although soap and water itself will stain things such as leather if you're not careful). <S> A secondary concern is that you fully remove the solvent after it's done. <S> Leaving excess solvent/degreaser behind is a very bad idea--see Rubbing Alcohol below for tips. <S> As for other solvents/degreasers: Rubbing Alcohol is fairly safe. <S> Naptha (a.k.a. liquid lighter fluid, not butane) can be very effective as well and is generally safe Acetone is a stronger solvent, and likely to be less safe. <S> It should be used with extreme care, but is a very powerful solvent and can get the job done well and quickly. <A> I've used so many types of degreaser and one thing to have in mind is not if it can damage <S> but how it can damage! <S> For example: I've used a mix of gasoline+diesel and it cleans beautifully the frame and rim and spokes, but mind you that it needs to be cleaned afterwards (water and a rug) and maybe add a little grease to protect it again, otherwise it can generate some rust! <S> This means that some product can be harmfull only if in some conditions. <S> If you know how it can damage, you can protect the parts. <S> Solvents and degreasers based on petrol can damage rubber. <S> Even when using WD-40, it can destroy the axle rubber protection (if it exists in your bike), but what I've done is clean it very well and it doesn't ruin anything, it's a matter of time. <S> I've used petroleum to clean my aluminum frame and no harm there, and works wonders with sticker removal. <S> Water and soap (or dish washing) can damage also if left for sometime, it can generate rust, so, as in other washes, always dry the best you can, and in some bike parts apply some grease (I've even done that with a seat post). <A> A good citrus cleaner degreaser is much better than simple green. <S> It is derived from natural components such as de-limoline found in citrus fruits. <S> Does it work? <S> You bet it does. <S> Safe? <S> I have never had any issues with it. <S> You can use it on just about any surface that water won't hurt. <S> (not recommended to use on glass) <S> Here is where I get mine. <S> http://www.baxtersales.com/Catalog/CatalogProductDetail.aspx?itemno=HYD-143-1-GA <S> They will ship it to you straight out of their stock.
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It has the risk of drying-out leather and rubber, but is very useful for cleaning parts--and especially useful for rinsing degreaser off of things such as chains (it also evaporates and leaves them dry--ideal for re-lubricating). The one I use that I have found is called Hillyard Citrus Scrub.
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Can chain-slap cause damage to a chainstay that is beyond superficial? Yesterday a coworker insisted electrical tape on his chainstay was necessary, as "[he] gets so much chain slap [he's] literally snapped frames". Now there's a couple dubious aspects to this--but my question is simply: can chain slap result in structural damage? <Q> YES and NO <S> YES <S> (you might have a problem) <S> If you have a steel frame slapping of the chain can damage the paint which is very important in keeping oxidants like water and air away from the bare steel. <S> Steel will rust and eventually fail catastrophically. <S> If you have a composite mountain bike frame , chain slap can damage the outer layers of fiber which generally carry the most load. <S> Nicks made by the chain in the frame's resin could be propagation sites for cracks that can lead to delaminating and failure. <S> If you are missing or have worn through the factory included sticker guards, I would apply some type of wear guard. <S> NO <S> (It won't be a problem) <S> Aluminum and stainless steel are ductile materials and are very hard to damage without hitting them very hard with a large mass or by using some type of lever to bend them. <S> Probably <S> No... <S> If you have a composite road bike , chain slap <S> can damage the outer layers of fiber or <S> could cause cracks in the frame as well, <S> however the likelyhood of this happening is very small. <S> For what it’s worth <S> I have <14 lbm composite road bike <S> and I would never think of adding electrical tape (I’m counting grams here) for something as silly as chain slap. <A> The only situation in which I could see that being the case would be with a carbon MTB frame, a rider who is using it far beyond it's intent, and a poorly set up drivetrain. <S> In that situation, you might get enough force from chain slap to ding the frame, and if repeated often enough, those dings might turn into a crack. <S> I seriously doubt it, but it could happen, in theory. <S> In the case of an aluminum or steel frame, No way, no how, not gonna happen. <S> Edit: I hadn't thought of eventual corrosion, in the case of steel. <S> I suppose that is also possible. <S> Still not going to "literally snap frames" from chain slap. <S> Nor would electrical tape prevent it, if it was going to happen, in a different universe, with different physical laws, or something like that. <S> Dubious is one word for it. <S> The other comes from the hind end of male cattle. <A> Generally if you're getting anything other than occasional chain slap against the stay there's something wrong. <S> Some very light/exotic frames could in theory have such thin tubing that you could wear through, but only after a considerable period of time. <S> But I've never seen any damage (beyond scratches) due to chain slap. <S> I'd be dubious too. <A> YES! <S> I have had frame damage occur, but it was not from chain slap alone! <S> As Daniel mentioned, it was on a steel steed, that led to corrosion. <S> In fact it was on the very first bike in which I was totally smitten, a Ritchey P-23 :( <S> Sadly, the chainstay did crack. <S> Ritchey did repair, so all was not lost. <S> The term ridden hard and put away wet... <S> yep on steel frames with chain slap or any paint chips for that matter is not a good idea! <S> Most of us keep our bikes in a garage or in basement rampant with moisture. <S> The MIT (most important thing) is to dry your steel steed! <S> Over the years I have seen this numerous times and just saw an old Serrota at the LBS with major rust to point where the shop was not going to do any repairs because failure was imminent. <S> Most of my riding is in RI, along the ocean, so that may accelerate the corrosion. <A> I use only thick electrical tape on my frame. <S> and my freewheel was crap <S> , practically not freewheeling at all. <S> when I opened it up to re-oil it, it was completely dry. <S> Also the rear derraileur was not adjusted in some 10yrs, and the cable had one split cable that was holding it all up when upshifiting. <S> So i bet this is the worse it can get (only good thing was that the chain was new). <S> And still i hardly have any mark on the electrical tape. <S> of course, that's all just my limited experience. <A> I did get chain slap damage on a carbon road bike, like one or even more millimeter deep scratch in the chainstay. <S> I still don't know the reason, but chain seems to easily hit the lower part of the chainstay, the one that is not protected by plastic guard. <S> Even going down one of those bumps in the road intended for slowing traffic makes the chain clack against the chainstay. <S> So it can be a problem. <S> Had never happened to me before. <S> Bike shop tells they see no problem. <S> I don't know why this happens, maybe the chain is too long ? <S> It's got a compact style drivetrain which I had not used before (used 52-42 and 52-36) <S> and the big hit came when going through a pothole in the road big ring in front and small sprocket back. <S> I've had worse encounters with potholes ( to the point of banging tyres and bending rims) with not a scratch in the chainstay paintjob. <S> But this bike is somehow prone to chain slap. <S> Been wondering if it's a thing of compact drivetrains, or nothing to do with that. <S> But yea don't just write off chainslap as a source of problems
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Eventually chain slap would wear away the paint on a steel frame and allow it to corrode through (if left out in the weather). If you have aluminum , stainless steel or another relatively non-corrosive metallic frame, no amount of beating with a chain is going to cause the thing to break. Composite frame manufacturers generally include one ply of weave fiber on the lower chain stays to increase the durability along with a plastic sticker which should be more than adequate for many years of riding. Depending on the type of frame and type of riding you are doing it could be a problem.
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How to use drop handlebars properly? This might seem like a really basic question, but there's no harm in asking. I've never had a bicycle with drop handlebars. I've always had sort of standard horizontal bars with only one hand position, which is on the rubber grips. I'm outgrowing the bike I have now, and thinking of upgrading next year to something faster. Pretty much every faster bike has drop handlebars, but I'm not sure how to use them. I understand that there are multiple hand positions. I'm sure I can figure out for myself which ones are more comfortable than others just by feel. But I don't want to necessarily do what feels natural, I want to ride properly. What are all the different hand positions available on drop bars? Which positions do you use in which scenarios? I just don't want to put myself in a dangerous, uncomfortable, impractical, or stupid-looking situation by having my hands in the wrong place. <Q> There are 3 basic hand positions that most people use on a drop bar: <S> On the Hoods - This position allows you to reach the brakes and shifters without moving your and allows a fairly upright, and comfortable body position. <S> Most riders spend 75-90% of their miles in this position. <S> On the Drops - This position is ideal for more aerodynamic body positions, or more athletic efforts. <S> When you want to go hard, go here. <S> You can reach brakes and shifters, but may have to move your hands, depending on your setup. <S> This is generally used for descending long hills, or an aggressive position. <S> It is less stable, and it is used for maybe 10% or less of most riders' mileage. <S> On the tops - This position allows a comfortable alternative position for more relaxed riding. <S> It is generally used when going at an easy pace, and in situations where you are certain of the road conditions, traffic and other hazards. <S> You definitely can not reach the brakes or shifters from this position without moving your hands. <S> It is less stable due to narrower hand position, though it may not feel like it. <S> Most riders use it as a cool down position for 10% or so of their mileage. <A> Two more positions (or variations): There is also an area in between position (1) and (3), on the corner of the bars and (depending on the bar) in between the corner and the hoods. <S> I probably spend most of my time in these positions. <S> Also, if I want to get in a more aerodynamic position, but not go into the drops, holding the tops of the hoods works well for me too. <S> This is a great position going into the wind, and we get plenty of that in West Texas. <A> Hoods - Hoods are pretty comfortable, they keep you more upright than the drops while keeping your hands comfortable. <S> Hoods are ideal for flat riding when you're not sprinting. <S> Use these most of the time. <S> Tops - The tops are the flat part of the handlebar. <S> Unless you have inline brake levers (interrupter levers) they are incredibly dangerous to ride at high speeds flat or especially downhill. <S> If you ride fixed gear the tops are slightly safer but still don't offer as much control over the bars so as to skid as the drops. <S> Never ever get out of the saddle on the tops! <S> That being said, the tops can be a very good place the climb. <S> You'll see a lot of pros using the tops on flat cobbles or going up hills, try to do the same. <S> Drops - <S> Since most both the hoods and the drops as positions offer the ability to brake, they are equally safe going downhill. <S> Try to use these exclusively when sprinting or on flat ground, climbing in the drops can be awkward if they are too low. <S> Important to note that a lot of all of this advice with vary depending on how high your handlebars are in relation to your saddle height, and how far away they are. <S> Also important to keep in mind are your handlebar width, drop style, and drop height. <S> I did not mention the fact that hoods and drops give you the oppurtunity to shift gears because many electrical groupsets offer shifters for sprint positions and climbing top positions. <A> My old raleigh 10 speed had brake levers which passed inside then across under the tops. <S> So you could always reach brakes. <S> Mind you <S> it had gear change on the lower shaft of the main frame <S> so they were never easy to reach.
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The drops are ideal for sprinting on flat ground or getting aero on descents. You can use the hoods for out of the saddle climbing more effectively than the drops.
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What belt-drive compatible frame and belt-drive kit would you recommend? I would like to build a custom belt-drive bike for my daily commute. I am looking for a frame and a belt-drive kit for a total budget of about 500$. I ride all year long, and winters here (Montreal, Canada) are pretty hard on bikes, so I need a simple yet robust frame. Any suggestions? <Q> You may be a bit out of luck with that price range if you hope to get the whole kit. <S> The Gates belt, cog, and "chain"-ring retail online for over $200 by themselves. <S> That said, there are some options if you are clever and dedicated. <S> If you're able to find one of the old 90's mountain bikes with elevated chainstays <S> you can use one of the expensive ($125-$150) eccentric bottom brackets that mount in a normal 68mm shell for tension. <S> A 90's Nishiki should be fairly cheap, so you'd eke in just under your total price. <S> It's also fair to say that your bike would be a unique build. <S> Alternatively, if you have access to an affordable machinist, start with an inexpensive frame that has thick track-style dropouts. <S> Modifying them into a variant of the old Spot-style dropouts should be relatively easy with a dremel, some taps, and a skilled hand. <S> This avoids the significant cost of the S&S couplers used by most belt-drive modifications. <S> Unfortunately, unless the frame was purpose-built for a belt, you're going to be stuck modifying it. <S> There are few, if-any, belt-specific frames in the market now, which keeps prices high. <S> The proper modifications either require an expensive S&S coupler or new dropouts, which are expensive to add aftermarket. <A> You could try converting an existing frame/bike if you have one (or can pick one up cheap). <S> It would work best if you had a singlespeed/internal hub geared donor bike. <S> You'd need to: Replace your chain ring <S> Replace the chain with a belt <S> Replace your rear cog <S> Cut the rear stay and insert a joiner (the most complicated task) <S> You might be able to either do the work yourself or find someone locally who can convert an existing bike. <S> It sounds like a fun project! <S> St Kilda cycles <S> (yes, I know they're almost certainly not convenient to you) can convert an existing bike to be belt driven. <S> I just gave them a call and they cut the frame at the rear stay and insert a joiner, then replace the chainring, rear cog and chain for a belt. <S> They're quoting $850 to $1000 (AUD) for all the parts and labour - the variance is because depending on the frame they can use an off the shelf frame joiner or whether they have to machine one up themselves. <S> Here is a video of someone doing a conversion. <S> Here's another thead discussion options and pros/cons <A> I can't find a frame price, but there are good reviews on the Spot Coyote belt drive bikes, and the complete bike with belt drive is $1100 USD. <S> They also make Ti frames with the same idea, but higher priced of course. <S> I would expect that the frame would be around $450-500.
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Your budget might be a touch low, since any quality frame will start at this price mark, and go up, and isn't likely to include the belt drive kit, unless you buy the complete bike.
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Does it matter which cassette I get for downtube friction shifters? My grandpa gave me his old 1974 Raleigh International (all original Campy) as a graduation present. Since the stock wheels are for tubular tires, and I do want to ride it around town, I want to get wheels for clincher tires so I can change the inner tube when I flat rather than having to mess with glue jobs. A new rear wheel means that I can have an option of getting a rear wheel with shimano hyperglide so I can choose modern cassettes. Because the shifters are friction shifters rather than indexed shifters, does it matter how many cogs are in the cassette? Do I have to stick with 5 or could I even go to 10? I stand corrected that the frame is steel and not alumninum. I was mistaken because the bike is significantly lighter than other steel-framed bikes I have dealt with. I apologize for this error. <Q> Unfortunately, your 1974 Campagnolo 5-speed hubs are likely to be 120mm spaced - you can see them in the 1974 Campagnolo catalog . <S> You're going to have a difficult time finding even old road hubs to fit that spacing. <S> I'm extremely doubtful that you have a 1974 Raleigh International in aluminum, since they were originally built with Reynolds 531 steel and Raleigh didn't list any aluminum frames in their 1974 catalog . <S> A quick test with a magnet should confirm for you. <S> Fundamentally, you're left with a limited number of options for the rear wheel, most of which have been hashed out above: <S> Simple, but you'll have to get more practice working with tubular tires. <S> Re-space the rear triangle. <S> It's steel <S> so, with caution, it should be straightforward. <S> You'd need to add 6mm just to get to old 6-7spd hubs, and 10mm to get to a modern road cassette hub. <S> If you're clever with moving spacers and wheel dishing you might be able to eke out another couple mm in there. <S> A big disadvantage here is that you'd need to re-space the frame back if you wish to restore it to the stock hubs. <S> Find a NOS, used, or expensive <S> Phil Wood <S> 120mm freewheel hub and build it up with a clincher rim. <S> The only limitation there is that of eBay and the fact that 90% of 120mm hubs you'll come across are modern single-speed track hubs, unsuited to your intended goal. <S> Also a disadvantage, you'll still only get up to 6, maybe 7 gears total. <S> That said, building it up around a very similar wheelset to the one on there now except for clinchers is probably a good option - you might pay a bit of a premium for identical Campagnolo hubs of the same vintage, but you'll keep the aesthetics. <A> Your outside locknut dimension is likely to be less than 135mm, at a guess you are on 130mm <S> and there is an outside chance you are on 126mm. <S> Only so much can be achieved by spreading the stays and removing washers to get a 135mm hub to fit in there! <S> Regina freewheels in 6 speed do exist in NOS, getting the removal tool is a lot easier as they are still made. <S> If you are successful in NOS land, look out for some Mavic MA2 (Silver) or MA40 rims. <S> They should be sufficiently period. <S> Personally I shift gears in multiples of twos and threes, you should be able to survive on 6 speed and not feel two deprived. <S> If the NOS market does not bear fruit, consider getting cheap 8/9 speed Shimano hubs + cassette. <S> Then if it does not fit you can either force the chainstays open, however that will possibly ruin the track (as only one stay will bend). <S> Or cut down the spindle by 5mm and the spacer on the left hand side. <S> You can then build the wheel around that with different dish to what you would normally get. <A> You need to measure the distance between the rear dropouts of the bike. <S> Current road wheels are 130mm between the dropouts. <S> 126mm or 127.5mm were common. <S> 5 speed will likely be 126mm. <S> Assuming a steel frame, you should be able to put a 9/10 speed wheel in the frame, but you may have to spread the frame for it to fit. <S> This bike is 5 speed campy friction. <S> It has an O.L.D. no wider than 127.5mm. <S> Most likely it is 126mm. <S> It will not be 135mm, as that is a current mountain bike hub. <S> A 126 usually has no problem being stretched to a 130mm, which is current road standard. <S> You will likely need to replace the shifters as well. <S> The shifters may or may not have the range for a 10 speed cassette, but Dura-Ace 9 speed friction shifters are still available around, and they may have ten speed. <S> At the least, keep the original parts so you can return it to the original condition of the bike for the purpose of a collector.
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I would recommend having a search for NOS hubs and freewheel of that period, if you can get hold of a set of 36h hubs you will be doing well, don't expect 32h. Continue using the current tubular wheelset. If you go Campagnolo, you should be able to get 10 and 11 speed shifters, although the wheels my cost you as much as a new bike. Depending on the bike, you may want to consider its collectors value and condition, before you make major irreversible modifications.
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Why not have the gears inside the bottom bracket? Looking into an IGH it seems the biggest disadvantage is having a huge amount of rotating mass. I've seen one handmade bike where the IGH sits above the bracket, inside a carbon fibre shroud around the place some bikes have rear suspension. There are two chains, one driving the IGH and another to drive the rear wheel. Why not have an internally geared bottom bracket where the cranks drive the input shaft and the crank ring rotates at a ratio selectable by the gear lever? Then the rear wheel could have a single drive wheel driven by a chain or belt and a lightweight hub just solid enough to mount the spokes and disc. Then you could have mud-free gearing while reducing rotating mass even below what you have with a conventional cassette... and given that you have thrown out the bottom bracket the overall weight gain would be less. Quite a job for the home builder to adapt an existing hub I guess but it should be possible. <Q> The lack of popularity is partially because it's a solution in need of a problem. <S> The effect of rotating mass in general is generally overstated when considering the total energy that goes into cycling, and mass near the axle has even less of an effect. <S> You can work out the math here . <S> The main advantage comes when considering unsprung mass on full-suspension bikes, where having weight on the rider's side of the suspension can improve the handling and response of the bike. <S> This is why inroads have been made in downhill circles. <A> There are a couple of crank designs that use this principle. <S> Off hand, the HammerSchmidt crank from SRAM is the most practical current application of it because it doesn't require deviation from the current frame specifications. <S> While it is only 2 gears, and the shifting is built into the crank, rather than inside the BB shell, that is a limitation of the currently marketed frame specifications, and it is only likely to change if consumers show a massive interest in BB Gearbox, enough to convince a manufacturer or 2 to stick their neck out on a new design. <S> Suntour, Hayes, Honda and Nicolai were all rumored to be building something like this for the DH market, but nothing has currently come available for sale that I can find. <S> These photos are of the Suntour Gearbox offered up at the 2006 Interbike Show. <S> All of these are issues that could be worked out, and I think overall, this is an excellent idea if we could apply it to the belt drive, commuter/touring market. <S> Commercially, probably not feasible, but maybe a niche market for a custom builder? <A> There's also the Schlumpf drives, which fit inside a standard bottom bracket. <S> http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html <S> Only two speeds though, like the HammerSchmidt. <A> Only a few framebuilders incorporate this in their frames, but they do exist... <A> Poland-based company "efneo" is developing a three speed crankshaft gearbox: http://www.efneo.com/ . <S> This product will allegedly ship next year.
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Another factor to consider in modifying or building your own frame is How to keep the BB spindle relatively placed where it is in relation to the saddle position, for correct fit applications, while simultaneously increasing the BB shell by an approximate factor of 3, and not decreasing ether tire clearance or ground clearance. There actually is a 18-Speed IG drive that is on the market: the pinion drive .
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Chain skipping on MTB I've had my Trek 3900 for about a year now, and I replaced the chain about 3 months ago, but otherwise it's running with the same parts it came with (not counting tubes and tires). I had to replace my chain because it had gotten really rusty from riding in rain/mud/water on trails, and had started skipping. My problem is, whenever I ride, if I get above or below a very light pressure when pedaling, the chain skips. I was wondering if this could be caused by my chain, which has gotten a little rusty but not as stretched as the other one was, or if I might need a new cassette? I just readjusted my derailer, but it still skips. Does anybody know what could be causing this? <Q> When your chain "stretches" beyond a certain point, typically .75mm per 4 inches links, it will begin to reshape the teeth on your cassette and chain rings. <S> At that point, replacing your chain will not help unless you also replace your cassette, and possibly your chain rings. <S> Check the answers on this question to see how to know when your chain is worn. <S> If your chain measures beyond 1.0mm per 4 inches, then you must replace chain, cassette and chain rings, or it will skip as you are describing. <A> How many miles do you suppose are on the bike? <S> First off, your chain should not be rusty. <S> If you frequently ride in wet conditions you should use a "wet" chain oil on it, and clean it at least a 2-3 times a season. <S> The skipping could be due to a rusty chain with frozen links, could be due to a poorly adjusted derailer, or could be due to a worn out cluster. <S> Though there's a fairly wide variation, a cluster on average is good for about 5K miles, and having a badly stretched chain wears the cluster (and chain rings) out faster. <A> @zenbike is right on this - it is a common problem. <S> Look closely and you will see that the shape made by the sprockets is an elongated 'u' shape, particularly so on the sprockets prone to skipping (the smaller sprockets). <S> There is the option to replace the sprockets, however, you will need a special tool to remove the sprockets and you may not have the money for the tools + sprockets right now. <S> In the past, when confronted with this situation, I have continued to ride and, after not too long a time, the new chain 'stretches' to suit the sprockets and no longer skip. <S> It need not stretch to the length of your old chain <S> , just 'grow' the tolerances required to work with the setup that you have. <S> It is up to you whether you follow <S> this 'cheapskate' option, however, you will need to remember not to ride out of the saddle on the gears where skipping is a problem. <S> Since you may have already damaged the new chain anyway <S> and it will not be suited to a brand new sprocket set, you may want to see how you get on running 'cheapskate'. <S> However, I cannot stress enough the importance: do remember to ride in the saddle as a jumping chain when out of the saddle is likely to cause you an accident when you least need it. <S> After a short period, surprisingly short, the tolerances should be good and you'll get a bit more life out of your sprocket set. <S> Eventually though you will have to replace sprocket+chain. <S> Don't wait for the gears to start jumping again, check the wear of the chain. <S> Too much wear will damage the front chainset and that will cost real money. <S> There are tools for measuring chain wear, personally I prefer to just put a screwdriver under the most forward part of the chainset when the chain is on the outer ring and see how much you can pull it forward. <S> If this gets to more than 5mm <S> or so you know it is a badly worn chain. <S> That is pure rule of thumb requiring experience, but that has worked for me in the past <S> and I do not personally own a chain wear tool.
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What happened was that the old, 'stretched' chain damaged the rear sprockets.
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Brakes won't stay tight I have plain ol' v-brakes and I have to tighten them all the time, every three or four weeks. I've been given to understand this is not usual. I'm not sure what's wrong though -- am I hitting them too hard? Could the pads be shot already? How would I know? I usually tighten them at the wheel rather than the handlebars, could this shorten their life? The bike's about a year old and I ride it a couple miles a day in city traffic. <Q> There are essentially 3 possibilities: <S> The brake pads are wearing down. <S> An adjustment -- either the twist adjustment, the cable clamp, or the pad itself -- is slipping. <S> The cable is "stretching". <S> If the pads are wearing that rapidly, it may be poor quality pads, or you may have some roughness on your rims. <S> It's also possible that your brakes are dragging all the time, due to improper setup or slightly "tacoed" wheels. <S> If an adjustment is slipping, you may just need to tighten a clamp tighter, or you may, eg, have an adjuster where the "bumps" that are supposed to hold it in place have worn down. <S> If a cable is "stretching" it's usually because the cable is breaking, strand by strand, and is in dire need of replacement. <A> By "tighten" do you mean adjust due to wear? <S> If the pads are wearing at such a rate, something is wrong; wheel rims worn to the point of abrasiveness, riding in extremely sandy conditions... <S> More likely you are generating slack in the system. <S> The cable may physically be slipping in the clamp on the brake itself; or there may be excessive cable length giving the impression of too much play by reason of flexing... <S> Consider replacing the entire cable/housing system with higher-quality items and making sure the clamp is not slipping. <A> That does sound like an excessive wear rate. <S> To improve the situation you may want to pay attention to how clean your rims are and maybe go for a different brake block compound. <S> You could also adjust your riding style to what car drivers call 'hypermiling'. <S> Cleaning the wheels is important because dirt that builds up on the braking surface acts like an abrasive, wearing out your brakes and your rims. <S> There are opinions on how best to clean the wheels, however, I ran out of posh bike-specific cleaning stuff a long time ago and moved onto raiding the washing powder soap. <S> A tablet in a bowl of hot water with the brush from an old dustpan and brush is what works for me now. <S> I then rinse off with cold water afterwards. <S> As for brake blocks, they do wear out and they do need replacing. <S> I prefer to use the blocks with replaceable pads as I then do not lose my setup every time I swap out the pads - the toe-in and angle are what they were when I first set them up <S> and I don't get any surprise squeaks. <S> The replacement pads I use at the moment are dual compound, and, living in the UK <S> I go for the Aztec branded ones. <S> These may not be available where you are, just get the most common brand stocked. <S> Try to use the front brake more than the back, obviously not always, but it does wear less. <S> Finally, make sure the brakes are not pointlessly rubbing whilst you are going along. <S> They don't actually wear that much if they are, but check your brake setup, there are tips on that elsewhere on this site. <A> I think the other answers cover the main points very well, but I wanted to mention that brakes can wear that quickly--especially in hilly environments and/or if you're carrying loads. <S> My commuter is typically pretty well loaded, and my job is on top of a big hill. <S> These aspects combine for fast wear, and I normally adjust my brakes about as frequently as you say. <S> I just replaced a set with ~800 miles on them whereas my road bike (which I ride on highways without stop and go traffic, and carries very little aside from myself) <S> hasn't had to have the cable adjusted in several hundred miles.
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If you over-rely on the back brake then that can wear down quickly. You need to figure out what's getting loose.
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Why don't bikes by auto manufacturers make it into bike shops or onto the streets? Currently I am considering getting a 'Mini' brand folding bike mail order, even though I have not seen one in a shop or in the street. This I am happy to do as it is a re-badged Dahon at a special price. Being a niche product I can understand why bike racks are not filled up with 'Mini' folders, however, I don't know why it is that all other bikes by auto manufacturers seem to completely fail in the marketplace. Peugeot did really well until mountain bikes came along so it is possible for an auto manufacturer to succeed at bikes. Other than the past efforts of Peugeot the only real-world evidence in the UK of the efforts of the auto manufacturers are a few bicycle-shaped-objects from mail order catalogues with tacky 'Land Rover' decals on them. I would not mind a Mercedes road bike and a BMW mountain bike just so I could have running jokes, e.g. casually mentioning that 'I came in to the office with the beamer today', 'I parked my Mercedes in the car-park', etc. For joke-reasons alone I would have thought bikes-by-auto-companies would have enough kudos to sell. But they don't. Why is that? Do they sell well outside the UK? In case you have not seen any bikes-by-auto-manufacturers, here is a small selection of them . <Q> The simple answer is market forces. <S> Most bikes done by auto makers are built as an add on to a vehicles' sport package. <S> They are not manufactured or offered to bike shops at all. <S> This tactic can be quite effective. <S> Look at the VW Jetta Trek, or the Ford/Kona partnership. <S> In the Ford/Kona case, it was a 500 US dollar bike offered as a 3000 dollar add on with the car. <S> No reputable shop will do that. <S> The Jetta Trek was a very similar package, but it was a $5000 add on and included a Thule rack for the car. <S> Mercedes' offerings are a piss poor design, offered again at a ridiculously high price, although they at least have the excuse of a unique in house design and low production numbers to blame the price on, since they didn't just rebrand a cheap bike shop bike. <A> In a review of the Porsche RS bike in The Guardian the reviewer suggests that car manufacturers simply don't have credibility as bike manufacturers: <S> They're car makers and most Porsche owners <S> I know would drive they're beloved cars into their own bedrooms if only they could. <S> As for cyclists, they're just as brand obsessed, but the same brands don't have credibility in both spheres . <S> MAMILS will gladly fork out £5,000 on a bike; it's just that it would be a Colnago or a Pinarello. <S> Men in leather jackets and Clarkson jeans would clearly spend the five grand upgrading their PDK gearbox. <S> (MAMILS = <S> middle-aged men in lycra) <A> A point worth noting is that your only example of a success in this field, Peugeot, started making bicycles in 1882, some years before their first cars. <A> It's a branding issue. <S> Cars manufacturers like Mercedes don't want to weaken the brand image of their product by selling a bike. <S> Even Lexus are careful not to associate their cars with Toyota although that's what they are. <S> On the other hand, riding a Hummer bicycle is about as absurd as driving a Hummer. <A> For the most part, these "branded" bikes are just someone else's bike that the car company (or soft-drink company or beer company) paid to have their logo on. <S> Essentially, an advertising gimmick. <S> We can imagine that the corporation had nothing to do with the design or specifications of the bike other than where and how the logo will appear.
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The problem is that they are generally very basic bikes, offered at a much higher price than the value of the bike. Generally, it's a bad idea to dilute the brand image.
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What are the benefits of a carbon seatpost? As the title states, what are the benefits of a carbon seatpost like this one from MEC ? My research indicates there may be the following pros and cons: Pros Lighter Supposedly smoother ride Cons More expensive Possibly more prone to catastrophic failure as compared to aluminium Is there anything else I'm missing or that I'm completely wrong about? <Q> In general, you've hit the high points yourself. <S> The benefits (and issues) will vary by post model, manufacturer, and design. <S> Carbon fiber is a very versatile material engineering wise. <S> Storck makes 2 carbon posts, which are externally identical. <S> But one is a comfort post, which focuses solely on smoothing out your ride, and the other focuses on being light and stiff. <A> I have had one fail, but it was on a second-hand bike <S> and I've no idea what its provenance was. <S> It was sudden, but not catastrophic - I was riding down a 5 mile hill and felt the saddle start to wobble. <S> When I stopped I found the post had cracked in a spiral up its length. <S> The ride home out of the saddle was hard work, but I'd be far less worried about failure in a seatpost than forks or bars. <A> I find it hard to imagine you could get <S> a carbon seat post catastrophically fail. <S> (I say that as someone who has broken a Titanium seat rail, a Ti frame in three places, and a Ti stem. <S> Generally on a very stiff frame, (like Aluminum) getting a carbon front fork, carbon seat post can help absorb some of the harshness of the frame.
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While there were issues with catastrophic failures, especially in early models, carbon component design is no longer in its infancy, and you are extremely unlikely to have failure issues if you choose your components and ride in a manner appropriate to the style of bike you own.
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What's the best way to lift a bike onto a storage hook? At work we have hooks attached to the wall so that we can hang our bikes from the front wheel. They're effectively the same as these: I see heaps of people struggling to lift their bikes onto the rack, getting dirty and greasy because they're having to kind of 'hug' the bike to lift it up high enough. I've got a neat trick for lifting my bike on to the rack which I'll post shortly, but I wanted to hear from the community if anyone has any tips or tricks. <Q> The trick is to use the strength in your legs plus leverage to lift the bike. <S> It is so simple <S> I can hang my bike up one handed. <S> Lock both front and rear brakes <S> Walk backwards, resulting in the bike being vertical in front of you, with you standing behind it holding the handlebars Feathering the rear brake, manoeuvre the bike in location below the hook. <S> The seat should be just in front of your knee or lower thigh <S> Put one knee <S> /thigh on the seat and flex that leg at the hip, raising your knee. <S> This lifts your bike vertically with almost no effort required. <S> Place it on the hook <S> and you're done! <S> I've shown this technique to a number of people who have been instantly impressed with how effortless it is. <S> It feels a bit weird the first time but <S> very quickly feels natural. <A> Bungie the front wheel to the frame, so it stays straight. <A> In some bike shops there are bikes stored this way and very closely packed. <S> In helping a customer choose a bike it can be necessary to lift bikes up and down onto wheel hooks with nothing scratched and no evidence of effort made (they don't want to buy a heavy bike). <S> Space can also be limited so there is no way to have a 'run up'. <S> There also might be a forest of bikes on the ground so you cannot move forward to support the weight of an bike 'at arms length'. <S> I found the best way <S> (UK instructions) is to: <S> Stand on the left hand side of the bike <S> Hold the handlebars and apply both brakes Lift and pull back the handlebars to get the bike on the back wheel. <S> carefully lower rear wheel onto the wall making sure no cables get snagged on neighbouring bikes <S> The trick with all lifting tasks is speed, to use momentum rather than brute strength. <S> Ideally you want to do the above in an all-in-one smooth motion. <S> Any delay and you can find your arms 'trembling' under the weight of the bike. <A> Get a long chain and park it normally on the floor with the kick stand :)
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Put right hand on seat Lift bike up and put front wheel onto the hook Whilst navigating the wheel onto the hook, stick one leg out rearwards to counter-balance the bike
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Can racks cause damage to a bike? Reading this question about the best way to lift a bike on to a pictured rack, it struck me that I'd be less worried about how to lift the bike than the potential for damage by hanging the bike from its front wheel's rim. Many racks involve putting the rim into a trough or groove, or something like this attached to a wall: Surely the danger from being struck from the side and bending the rim is quite large? For this reason I try to avoid any rack that I have to put my bike in rather than against or on. While the concensus seems to be that public rack owners might not be liable for theft , might they be liable for contributory negligence if a bike is damaged directly as a design flaw in the rack? <Q> I am not a lawyer, but it looks to me that it would be a big no. <S> It is your decision to put it in the rack. <S> And in any case, they are actually pretty good <S> - they are the most common type <S> and I have never had one cause any damage in 35 years. <A> I have seen lot of damage wheels from racks like this, the probem is they are are often fitted too close, so when someone take there bike out, they have to fight with yours. <A> In almost all cases the owner/provider of a rack is not liable for damage or theft occurring while your bike is parked at the rack. <S> In this type of rack, which I don't like but sometimes have to use, I will almost always back my bike in and attach the rear wheel. <S> I think this has the following advantages: <S> You have the rear triangle structure surrounding the wheel which is more secure to lock to and may protect the wheel from some types of damage. <S> Your handlebars are now 'out front' making it easier for someone else to park their bike front-wheel in.
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There is also no good way to lock the bike to the rack with most locks.
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Specialized Hardrock - How to stop disc brakes from squealing? I have a Specialized Hardrock 2011 Disc brake mountain bike with a front brake that squeals when used lightly. It's OK if I use the brake hard - but I usually don't need or want to stop in such a hurry! I have been using the rear brake more for light braking, which is something that I don't like to do because the front brake is best for this. It has been like this pretty much since the day I got it, so I initially put it down to needing running in. It has got a bit better with time and a few hundred miles, but not much - I try not to brake and instead carry the momentum of the bike where I can for increased efficiency. What should I look into adjusting to stop disks squealing? <Q> In my experience disc break squeal is typically a result of excessive vibration caused by one of three things: Contamination - Brake disc and pads should only be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. <S> Give them a thorough wipe down. <S> Poor adjustment/loose components <S> - Try looking at the manufacturers web site for adjustment and torque specifications. <S> Lower end brake components - <S> Sometimes as they wear it will diminish, but often you are stuck with the sound unless you want to fork out the money to upgrade. <S> Note that especially in case 2 and 3 you will see the behavior you describe where the squeal is worse when the brakes are applied lightly. <S> As you apply more force you remove the ability of the involved parts to vibrate. <A> As always, check with you local trusted bike shop... <S> But, is there any issues with the brake pad and disc? <S> In other words, assuming no trapped grit, is either warped in ay way, has a burr, etc. <S> If it's been happening since day one my guess would be some minor maladjustment in shape of the brake pad or disc. <S> Or just the mix of materials causes squeaking. <A> If they are not full floating calipers, most are not, then the problem may be the fixed side of the caliper pad <S> has worn and you need to adjust the fixed side pad closer to the rotor (eliminate the gap) <S> The squeal comes from the movable pad pushing (flexing) <S> the rotor over to make contact with the fixed pad. <S> This type of caliper needs periodic adjustment of the fixed pad as the pad wears.
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A lot of lower end disc brake sets have variations in the pads and rotors that just naturally encourage a squeal. Installing and adjusting brakes is one place where a torque wrench can be helpful. But again check with your local bike shop mechanic to see if they have any ideas.
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Are there any locking options that lock the drive train of a bicycle? I've been looking into the different kind of locks available, and came upon this short documentary about bike thefts in London. Seems that just about any lock on the market can be easily beaten by a large enough set of bolt cutters. So I was trying to think of a better system, and I thought of something: Why not have locks that are built into the bike itself? Something that locks out the drive train in some way? It seems that in the majority of thefts, the thieves are riding away on the bike. From about 10 minutes of pondering the question, it seems like a small hole could be placed in the crank axle without compromising the strength too much, and then you could incorporate the locking mechanism into the down tube. When the bike is locked, the cranks can no longer turn. Searching on the internet yielded no results for locks that lock the drive train of the bike. Is it just an unworkable idea, or has nobody thought of it until now? You would still have to lock the bike to a rack to ensure that someone doesn't just carry it away or put it on the back of a truck. But it would make the bike that much less of a target if the thief knew that such a system was in place. <Q> Wheel locks are an implementation of this idea. <S> They simply prevent the rear wheel from turning, which is effectively the same thing. <S> Again, any thief with large enough bolt cutters will be able to effectively sidestep the problem without hassle. <S> But worse than that, the odds of your bike being stolen while being immobilized like this are still orders of magnitude higher than locking your bike to something with a U-lock. <S> Any thief can merely pick up the bike and run off with it (which is more doable than you'd think) or toss it into the bed of a pickup and be gone. <S> And that's simply what it comes down to. <S> Locking the drivetrain doesn't provide any additional mechanism that a prepared thief wouldn't already be able to work around, and, while better than leaving your bike totally unlocked, is still far less safe than a U-lock. <A> Raleigh fitted a steering lock to many of their bikes up until the 1970's: <S> I have got a bike with one <S> but I would not use it without a secondary lock to a fixed object. <S> Neither would I use what you are looking for, and for the same reasons! <S> It is a solution looking for a problem that is not practical in the real world. <S> You don't want someone taking you bike away so they can strip it for parts. <S> Note that the Raleigh people could have put their immobiliser on the bottom bracket if they wanted to, or even in the hub gears. <A> You could put a padlock through the crank for extra security, so when the crank is turned it would hit the derailer or get trapped in the chain. <S> Extra security of any kind will reduce the likelyhood of theft!
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The advantage of the steering lock is that a thief on a bike with locked steering is likely to crash.
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Why is there a stitched hole in the back pocket of my new jersey? I just finished a charity ride and found that the brand new jersey bought for it has a hole in the back center pocket. It is neatly cut, with stitching around it to prevent fraying, so I'm sure it is a feature rather than a defect. What is the intended purpose? <Q> My best guess is the hole would allow a headphone cable to run down the collar, through the inside of the shirt, and into the pocket. <A> I'm going to guess the garmet manufacturer puts the hole there so that when you wash the jersey (which hopefully you do occasionaly), water doesn't pool in the pocket but instead drains out the hole. <S> This doesn't really explain why it's only in the center pocket and not the side ones ... <A> I remember that decades ago when wool cycling jerseys were common, the middle pocket in the back sometimes had a button and button hole. <S> You could button the largest pocket. <S> I don't remember if the other pockets also had buttons and button holes.
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My guess is that the stitched hole is a vestigial button hole from an old jersey style.
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How is this kind of cycling correctly called? Sometimes I like to make rather high-speed descents (during which I also make jumps) in the forest near to my house. I want to know how this kind of activity is correctly called. Is it downhill, freeride, etc.? <Q> If you want to be specific it sounds like it fits into one of these categories - <S> Trail Riding <S> This is a good catchall term for recreational mountain biking where the trail is the most important thing - It includes climbing and descending, typically on singletrack. <S> It's possible your wheels will get off the ground, but not mandatory. <S> All Mountain <S> Again this includes climbing, but all mountain riding focuses more on going down than getting up. <S> A all mountain bike will generally be heavier and more robust than a trail bike - it needs to handle higher speeds and bigger impacts. <S> Downhill <S> Are you just interested in getting down that hill as quickly as possible? <S> Are you pushing/getting carried to the top? <S> Then you're riding downhill. <S> You'll probably be jumping, and you'll probably be going very fast. <S> Freestyle <S> Like downhill freestyle is all about the descent, but in this case style is more important than speed. <S> If you're riding freestyle you'll be doing tricks and stunts on the jumps and drops. <S> Bear in mind that these aren't strictly defined terms, and are prone to change. <A> "Freeride" generally refers to the type of riding described above, using Summertime ski-trails to ride essentially downhill. <S> You usually truck up to the top."Downhill <S> " normally refers to a particular type of MTB racing on a downhill course. <S> This would be pretty close to what you describe... <S> Minus the competitive aspect. <S> Some of these races are conducted head-to-head on the same course, some are one-at-a-time "time trials". <A> North Shore!!! <S> Yep, there is a name for it and in the UK (and presumably Canada <S> ) it is known as 'North Shore'. <S> This is a shorthand for British Columbia riding style on trails exactly as you describe. <S> Even the bike manufacturers have cottoned onto the trend, plus the editors of Wikipedia: <S> North Shore bikes are much like freeride bikes in their geometry and downhill bikes in their component makeup. <S> Because north shore stunts have evolved to not only include simple and complex bridges but also large drops and high-speed descents through a series of stunts north shore bikes commonly have as much travel as downhill and freeride bikes, however with much more nimble and maneuverable frame designs, and often lighter weight. <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_bike <S> Now you know the magic YouTube search term, find some good videos to post here for the enjoyment of the stackexchange masses. <S> Good luck with the trail building and, at the risk of sounding like your mother, don't forget your helmet and body armour!
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From your description it's hard to say exactly what kind of riding you are doing, all forms of mountain biking can involve going down hills quickly and jumping.
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What is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his "Way Back Home" video? I was wondering whether someone could help me identify what is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his video . If it is unable to determine exactly what model he has, could you guys please tell me a rough estimate how much a bicycle that can handle such jumps would cost? What brand would you recommend? <Q> He rides a prototype trials bike by Inspired Bicycles that will be called 'Skye' when it comes out. <S> Full details on his rig: http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/danny_macaskill_r3.php <S> Inspired sell frames that you can build up to your own specification, useful if you already have a bike that isn't quite up to the job as you can move the parts across and go from there. <S> They also sell complete bikes. <S> I am sure someone can correct me on this, however, the mainstream brands do not really create anything that comes near to what you get with an Inspired trials bike. <S> There are other brands, e.g. Mission, you may want to see what your nearest LBS has, chances are that they may have someone working there that knows their stuff and has passion for it. <S> For now it would not do any harm to email Inspired Bicycles to see when the 'Skye' frame/bike is out and find out how much it is likely to cost. <A> I found some pictures if the bike at euro bike 2011. <S> It has some changes since "way back home" like two disk brakes. <S> I look forward to buying one next year when inspired said it would be out. <S> Link for photos http://singletrackworld.com/2011/09/eurobike-2011-danny-macaskills-inspired-trials-bike/ <A> They make 20", 24" and 26" versions, and are sold for less than $1000 with hydraulic disc front brakes and hydraulic rim rear brakes (the same setup that Danny has). <S> Here's a link and a picture: They aren't exactly what he's riding, but they are at least somewhat comparable in components and setup, and these are affordable.
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If you're looking for a similar bicycle style that's affordable, I'd recommend the Echo Trials bikes.
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My LBS does not carry fixed-gear/single-speed parts. What next? Question Changed. See Below for Original. My local bike shop neither carries fixed-gear/single-speed parts nor is very knowledgable about the topic. Should I find an online storefront to take its place? Or try to work with my LBS to get the parts I need? Original Question: Online Shop Suggestions for Fixies/Single-Speeds I'm looking for a reliable online shop for fixed-gear/single-speed parts. I have a frame and fork and am wanting to buy new, quality parts to complete my first build. Any suggestions? Looking for (EDIT): Fixed/Free wheel-set, cogs and crank. Shop specializing in, but not limited to, fixed-gear/single-speed parts. Quality customer service by email or phone. A local bike shop with a good online storefront. Prompt shipping. Ships to U.S. (Texas) I've tried my local bike shop for these parts, but unfortunately they were not very helpful after mentioning single-speed (they were cool about it, just uninformed). <Q> Your local bike shop may not get it with fixed/single speed but do not discount them entirely. <S> They can sometimes compete on price better than a mail order company simply because they will not be charging you shipping even if they have to get parts in specially for you. <S> Also, there is always the option to get spare parts for a particular bike. <S> If you like the wheel set that comes with a a e.g. Specialized Langster and the shop do Specialized then you can ask them to quote you for a replacement wheelset. <S> The same goes with Kona/Giant or whatever it is they do stock. <S> With some brands these replacement parts are surprisingly competitively priced. <A> From the UK I used Charlie <S> The Bikemonger for my single speed and fixed gear needs. <S> I had no problems with the service but a sample size of 1 isn't really that significant! <A> Smartbikeparts in Chicago is something to look at. <S> It's hard to navigate their site, but their inventory is deep, and the service I've gotten at their storefront has been excellent.
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Most bike shops have at least a couple of regular suppliers and these suppliers will almost certainly have what you need. Give the local shop a go even if they do need extra prodding and, if they are any good, they will give you service that the online box-shifters never can.
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Can a hybrid bike seat be used on a road bike? I'm new to road bike riding. At my local bike shop they fitted me for a Bontrager Nebula Plus to replace the stock seat that came with the bike. The Bontrager website says this seat is designed for hybrid riders. It's hard to tell at this point if my post ride discomfort is from the seat or if I'm still just getting used to ridding. Is a hybrid seat like this suitable to be used on a road bike ? <Q> Your LBS's advice should be fairly solid. <S> Saddles have a denoted usage, but it is not a strict prescription. <S> For example, my road bike is fitted with a mountain saddle (a Serfas Tegu ) and it keeps me quite comfortable for rides of around 4-hours. <S> Using a hybrid saddle on a road bike is perfectly suitable, however you may require a narrower saddle to accomodate the more aggressive riding position (see <S> Should I use a narrower saddle on my roadbike than I would on my hybrid commuter? ); however your LBS has likely taken this into consideration already. <S> If you are still experiencing discomfort, then you may need to try a different size or a different model. <S> Saddles are highly personalized options on the bike, so it may take a couple returns before you find the correct one. <S> The position of the saddle on the bike is another aspect of comfort. <S> Some riders prefer their saddles at a slight angle, while others prefer it to be level. <S> Keep in mind with any new saddle <S> there is a break-in period. <S> Typically you should put several hours of riding time in before making a conclusion--unless it is very uncomfortable right away. <S> Also, are you wearing padded shorts? <S> Padded shorts add a huge amount of comfort--moreso than more heavily padded saddles. <S> Typically you are better off with a good pair of padded shorts and a fairly firm saddle than you would be with "regular" clothes and a very cushioned saddle. <S> Try to describe the discomfort you're having (e.g. are your legs going numb, do the insides of your sitbones quickly become sore, etc). <S> They may adjust the position of your saddle or swap the saddle entirely. <A> If you ride several hours a week and you're still in discomfort after a few weeks it is likely the saddle. <S> Everyone is a little bit different, not every saddle is appropriate for everyone. <S> Many folks (especially men) find that narrower, stiffer seats are actually more comfortable than wider soft seats after the initial acclimatization of riding. <A> You don't say what sort of cycling (and how much) you've done before, or what sort of seat you've previously used. <S> There are all sorts of seats available, from rail-thin to extra wide, short to long, hard to soft, and <S> the seat you should use is the one that is (in the long term) comfortable to YOU <S> (though, granted, certain seats may cause "serious" riders to turn up their noses). <S> Do note that a seat that's uncomfortable in the short term may be more comfortable in the long term, and vice-versa. <S> (A lot has to do with getting your butt "conditioned" to the seat.) <S> There's no really good way to tell, beforehand <S> , what is the "right" seat for you. <A> As long as you are not competing in Tour de France, it will be fine. <S> You should pay attention to seat width. <S> There are shops which provide metering of your sit bones (no touching :-)) <S> and Bontrager has the same model in different sizes. <A> The main difference between a 'road' saddle and a 'hybrid' saddle is going to be the angle they're designed to have the rider at. <S> If you're new to road bike riding <S> it's likely <S> your main riding position is the same as that hybrid saddle is designed for. <S> That saddle <S> looks like a road saddle to me. <S> A bit more padding than the more "serious" saddles. <S> However, everybody is a little different. <S> A lot of shops make it easy to try a different saddle (comfort guarantee, 1 week return policy, etc) because it often takes a few tries to get it right. <S> In other words, the seat type is appropriate, but it still might not be fitting you quite right. <S> For us or your shop to be able to help better, you'll have to be much more explicit about exactly what discomfort you're experiencing.
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Depending what discomfort you're experiencing it's worth trying a different saddle. If you have any concerns go back to your LBS and try to find out who their saddle guru is. There is no "right" or "wrong" seat (within reason).
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What road bike tire pressure is best for speed? Is the maximum tire pressure always the fastest on a road bike? I've seen the Michelin chart on tire pressure from another question (" What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at? "), but they don't mention whether it is optimized for speed, safety, comfort, or some combination of these. I have heard that the more pressure a tire has, the faster it goes. But this is not always true on a mountain bike, depending on the road/trail surface. Could it be that a smoother, less jittery ride at 105 psi might be faster than 120 or 130 psi on a road bike? <Q> I generally agree with Angelo's answer . <S> Tire diameter and your weight will determine the optimal pressure. <S> Beyond that, this is actually a controversial subject. <S> Let's assume that you want to minimize rolling resistance. " <S> Rock hard" isn't necessarily the best approach. <S> One widely cited opinion is that above a certain pressure, there's no benefit in terms of rolling resistance, and the target is a 15% "drop" (vertical deformation under load)—it is argued that even with less drop than that (i.e., higher pressure) you do not see an improvement in rolling resistance, so all you're doing with that extra pressure is making the ride harsher. <S> Here are a couple of articles (pdf) discussing pressure, rolling resistance, and tire drop. <S> You can see that there's a diminishing-returns curve in terms of power savings at higher pressures. <S> The second one includes a graph showing how much you should inflate a tire to get a 15% drop depending on how much load there is on that wheel and how wide the tire is. <S> I should point out that this opinion is not universally held. <S> Jobst Brandt, for one, is skeptical, but I'm not sure what he recommends. <A> On a perfectly smooth road you want your tires to be equally smooth and rock-hard. <S> A significant amount of energy can be lost (in addition to the wear and tear on the cyclist) due to bouncing the cyclist up and down over bumps. <S> So on a "sorta bumpy" road you'd want to have tires that weren't quite rock-hard. <S> On a really bumpy road you'd want tires that are more along the line of mountain bike tires, running at a significantly lower pressure. <S> Basically as hard as possible without transmitting too many of the smaller bumps to the bike (and the cyclist). <A> There's no formula. <S> The recommended pressure on the tire is usually a lower bound for most folks, it is not unusual to exceed it by 10 psi (and sometimes a lot more). <S> If you have trouble with pinch flats and your tire is already very hard to the point of being jarring, you need to get a wider tire. <S> Here is one trick that I've already mentioned before: since your front wheel is under less load than the rear, it is OK to put less air pressure in it than the rear. <S> This will dampen the road shock transmitted to your hands a slight but noticeable amount. <A> It depends how fast you're going. <S> At relatively low speeds, what matters (i.e. the biggest force slowing you down) is rolling resistance. <S> At relatively high speeds, what matters is aerodynamics. <S> At high (i.e. racing) speeds, then, you need a narrow/thin tire to minimize wind resistance. <S> A narrower tire requires a higher pressure than a wider one (e.g. if you'll forgive my non-SI units, a 23 tire at 130 psi compared with a 32 tire at 85 psi). <S> I'm not sure I understand your question, though: I don't think you'd race a road bike on a "trail surface" <S> (you'd do it on a paved road). <A> From my own personal experience, inflating the rear tire to the maximum would be a lot faster. <S> They also tried with mythbusters with cars. <S> saving fuel by over inflating tires. <S> My tires are rated 50 PSI as recommended pressure, and 65 PSI for maximum pressure. <S> when I go for 60 PSI the 6th gear feels like 5 and it enables me to maintain higher average speeds. <S> As an added bonus, inflating tires near the maximum rated pressure makes it more puncture resistant. <S> The only drawback is it a little bit bumpy. <S> I use bike for short distances (10 KM on average), so speed is the most important factor for me. <S> Hope that this helps.
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Your optimal tire pressure depends most importantly on the width of the tire and your weight. On a rougher road it's more efficient if the tires have enough "give" to "levitate" you over the smaller bumps, so that you're not using a lot of your energy to make the bike bump up and down.
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Is it possible to reverse cable direction in Shimano M770 shifter? I tried to set up the perfect shifter + derailleur. For the last part it is better (for me) to have low-normal version, because reducing gears is essential for me (I bike mostly within city). So I bought low-normal Shimano derailleur (Shimano-RD M770 SGS XT) and M770 shifter. To my surprise it is asymmetric shifter -- you are able to release gears by 4, and increase by 1 (I tuned M770 already, so I am able to increase gears by 2, just like with XTR). So with current configuration I can more easily increase gears (by 4) than reduce them -- quite contrary what I wanted. I can send back derailleur, and order a new one, with top-normal spring, but I would LOVE to improve M770 shifter even further by reversing the direction of cable, i.e. so the thumb level would pull the cable, and index level would release cable. Such tweaking would result in dream machine (well, part of it). The question is -- is such modification is possible at all (at home)? I would appreciate firm "no" or "yes" (+how to do it) answers. Thank you very much in advance. <Q> <A> How to kludge up a "fix" Obtain two stainless-steel "spiral" hose clamps, a little larger than your frame tubes. <S> Obtain some shift cable housing material and a new shift cable (or two), as long as possible (your existing will likely be too short). <S> Obtain an extension (pull) <S> spring you judge to be about twice as stiff as the spring on the derailer (measured by pulling the cable). <S> Obtain some sort of cable clamp that can be used to clamp the end of 4 shift cables together (two cables doubled over). <S> (Or maybe two separate clamps will work out better.) <S> If your shift cable comes up the down tube, you'll work on the top tube, and vice-versa. <S> Devise <S> a hook of some sort that allows the spring to be anchored to the tube via one of the clamps. <S> Run a piece of cable housing from the shifter to maybe 6" short of the loose end of the spring, after it's mounted. <S> Run a piece of cable housing from wherever the old housing began in an arc (from down tube to top tube or vice-versa) and ending at the same point as the first piece of housing. <S> (Note that this piece will be running "backwards", towards the back of the bike.) <S> Clamp both pieces of housing to the tube with the second hose clamp. <S> (This may be a less than ideal anchorage, but remember -- this is a kludge.) <S> Thread cables into both housings appropriately. <S> Thread cable ends through the loose end of the spring and back on themselves. <S> Tighten the cables enough to pull the derailer all the way into low gear, then fasten the cables with the cable clamp. <S> Trim or secure the wild ends of the cables. <S> Adjust and ride. <A> You can not reverse the operation of the shifter. <S> From what you're saying, you got the low-normal return spring(what used to be rapid-rise) version of the derailleur and shifter, yes? <S> If that's the case, replace the shifter with the non-rapid-rise one. <S> The gear indicator will read backwards, but the shift points will line up right and the thumb and finger actions will be reversed.
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You should switch your derailleur out for one with a reverse pull, but there is absolutely no chance that you'll get the shifter to reverse the operation of the cable.
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In practical terms, how often do you have to adjust the belt tension of a belt drive bicycle? Gates claims their belts do not stretch over their life, so theoretically speaking you should not have to adjust the tension (which appears finicky). I'm interested in anyone with real world experience. Do you ever have to adjust the tension of the belt, apart from when you have to move the back wheel for another reason, such as to change a tyre? Gates, who make the belts have a FAQ. I can't get a direct link, but if you go to http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/support.php under the question "What are the benefits to the Carbon Drive systems?" this is part of their answer. No Stretch – The Carbon Drive belt does not stretch over time like a chain. This means you don’t have to re-tension the belt, or replace the belt due to stretch. This also means no excessive wear on pulleys due to stretch. Does this claim hold up in practice? <Q> I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now. <S> Gates claims that tension adjustments are not necessary over the lifetime of the belt drive. <S> I found this to be true. <S> However, I have noticed that the tension of the belt changes significantly with temperature (and possibly humidity, though I don't have enough data to test that hypothesis). <S> I have ridden my bike in various weather conditions and temperatures ranging from over 90℉/32 <S> °C to under 0℉/-17 <S> °C. <S> I use the Gates iPhone app to check my belt's tension. <S> I have noticed that, if the belt is tensioned properly at about room temperature, then the tension in the belt decreases below the recommended tension range when the ambient temperature drops below about 20℉/-6°C. <S> I have noticed problems with the belt drive when tension is too high or too low, including excessive noise, skipping, and misalignment leading to dropping the belt from the sprockets. <S> Therefore, I found it necessary to retension the belt slightly in the beginning of the winter and again at the end of winter. <S> I'm not certain yet if the weather-related change in tension is caused by frame shrinkage <S> (I suspect this is the case - my frame is aluminium) or by another factor. <A> Once the system is set up correctly you will not need to tension it again until it is time to replace the system. <S> There will be a slight drop in tension over the life of the system but it is not enough to require adjusting the tension. <S> When performing a tire change using a bike with sliding vertical drop outs or an eccentric bottom bracket it is not necessary to re-tension the system, just pop the wheel in and out as you would with a chain. <A> I have a Gates belt drive. <S> After getting tension right (using the iPhone app) <S> initially I did not touch it for a year and was surprised to find it had not changed. <S> For me at least, no stretch. <A> Aluminium alloys have a large coefficient of expansion (the grow with increase in temperature) and this could explain your summer and winter experiences. <S> Do not own a belt drive but do maintain large aluminium aircraft with control cables. <S> when are cables replaced or are adjusted it is carried out after aircraft temperature has stabilised and cable tension is corrected for temperature ie lower tension if aircraft cool & higher tension. <S> This is due to the length of the aircraft and it's cable runs changing enough to make significant differences in cable tensions.
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One of Gates' claims is that the belt does not stretch enough to warrant tension adjustment after a break-in period, as you would on a brake or shifter cable. My experience does not support this claim.
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Dia Compe Brakes for 1991 Bridgestone RB-T I have a 1991 Bridgestone RB-T. This bike has passed through many hands so much of the stock parts are gone. The original Dia Compe XCE brake arms have been replaced by Dimension canti arms. My problem involves the canti braze-ons. After examining other bikes with cantilever brakes these pivots seem to be located differently. The placement is much closer to the rim itself. Judging from pictures of the Dia Compe brakes the pad holder was located outside the pivot. The Dimension arms place the pad holder way too far inside of the brake pivot. The pads are installed without any adjustment washers on the inside and all the way to the bottom of the slot. Even with these compromises they aren't located properly and start to hit the tire if I don't watch them. Can anyone recommend a Dia Compe XCE replacement? Is there really a difference in where the canti braze-ons were located for these brakes? I just want an OEM brake that will work for pad clearance. <Q> Advert for Bridgestone RB-T showing brake placement to be a lot closer than standard: <S> The brakes look like Deore LX cantilevers from the early 1990's (these were available in both silver and black): <S> I would agree that you have a problem. <S> You may want to put narrow 20mm rims on the bike to mitigate the problem. <S> You could source some early 1990's Shimano/Suntour/Dia-Compe brakes that catered well with touring as well as mountain bikes. <S> Dia-Compe 986's were the first ones to be 'low profile' yet still use the 'brake blocks on stalks' (as opposed to the nut and bolt ones). <S> There were also examples from Shimano and the Suntour badged Dia-Compe models. <S> Pads are also a consideration. <S> When Shimano XTR came out the pads became longer and thinner. <S> In the UK Aztec make replacements for these (with the 'stalks') <S> and they are widely available. <S> What you may also want to look for are the very early cantilevers that stuck out a long way. <S> Dia Compe 983's are the classic example. <S> As for getting hold of some of these early cantilevers, try your LBS as they may have some knocking about in the workshop that they may let you have for a small fee. <S> Reposted from the MTBR forums for future reference, the specifications of how cantilever bosses should be done: <A> The boss spacing changed from 60 mm to 80 mm with the advent of mountain bikes which use wider wheels. <S> 60mm is the spacing the Dia Compes were made for. <S> Avid Shorty Ultimates are adjustable and their wide setting works well with 60 mm post spacing. <S> Spring tension is also adjustable. <S> Dia Compe 981's are easily sourced. <S> I just bought a set for $35 shipped <A> I just worked through this issue with a new-to-me RB-T I finally got around to building up. <S> Dia Compe 981's (amazingly, I had a set in my parts bin) <S> work perfectly with 21mm Mavic A319 rims. <S> They have a great integral quick release aspect to them. <S> I watched another pair on ebay go last week for about $12, I think. <S> Enjoy. <A> A little googling suggests that you should be able to get a set of XCEs on ebay.
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Good condition narrowly spaced cantilever brakes are readily available on eBay for not a whole lot of money. What you need are cantilevers made for the narrower spacing with an adjustment for spring tension. There is a problem with these if you are using panniers on the back and if you have anything but a small frame size - they poke out into the pannier bag and get wedged on.
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How do I stop my clipless shoes and pedals from squeaking? I'm riding with Shimano SD66 sandals . They are awesome sandals and it's so comfortable riding without worrying about socks and shoes. I'm using Shimano pedals. I'm getting a squeaking sound, mainly from one shoe/pedal at the top of the power stroke. I'm almost certain it's from the shoe/pedal because just adjusting the angle of my foot a little (inside the play allowed by the cleat/pedal) makes the noise stop. I'm assuming that the shoe and pedal are deforming/conforming to each other and have started to rub at the most common positioning. I'd normally look at lubricating, but don't want to use grease as that will track through my house and office. Any other thoughts? <Q> Rather than use grease, you can try using a 'dry' or wax based chain lube. <S> Apply the lube to the flat clips on each pedal - hit both sides <S> if they are double sided mtb pedals. <S> If you think the squeak may be coming from the pedal itself, rather than the friction between the pedal and the clip, apply some lube to the spindle attachment points where the pedal rotates around the shaft. <S> Wipe away any excess. <S> Hold onto a wall or go for a ride and and clip in and out of the bicycle pedals until the lube is adequately distributed and worked in. <S> Repeat all steps if still squeaking. <S> If you carefully wipe off the excess from your shoes/cleats and the pedals, you won't be tracking anything around your house after your ride. <S> If after a second application the squeak remains it may be a problem with the bearings in the pedals - some can be overhauled, but others it makes more sense just to replace. <A> <A> I have had the same clicking problem. <S> Found it to be the pedal bearing arrangement. <S> The pedal relys on the mating of the tension bolt against the bearing (which is located on the outer side). <S> Poor design. <S> Once the bearing and pedal body begin to shift the mating surface starts to click. <S> Solution
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...Loctite the bearing to the pedal body and file down the pedal body where the tightening bolt seats to allow for more tension on the mating surface. I have rubbed a block of wax on the pedal/cleat interface to deal with a similar problem.
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Is there an optimal postion for SPD cleats? I bought some SPD clipless pedals and shoes at the beginning of the season, and I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of them. There is quite a bit of distance I can move the cleat forwards and backwards on the shoe. Is there an optimal position for the cleat? Are there certain positions better suited towards hill climbing or riding mostly on flat land? Should I just try a bunch of different positions and see which is most comfortable for me? A lot of questions I guess, just looking for general recommendations on placement. The cleat is currently in the middle, and I don't have any real "problems" with them, like pain or fatigue, I'm just wondering if my setup is optimal. <Q> You pedal with the ball of your foot and this should placed directly above the pedal axle. <S> However, because you move your foot in a ~170mm radius circle altering the angle of your foot, 'directly above' moves back and fore through the pedal stroke. <S> Getting the ball of the foot behind the axle is not desirable as you are then using the toes rather than the ball (or arch) of the foot to pedal with. <S> Therefore, in practice, you need to have the ball of your foot approximately 10mm forward of the axle. <S> Placing the ball of the foot 10mm forward of the axle helps during the bottom of the power stroke. <S> You can push the pedal backwards through the dead spot. <S> It also helps at the top of the stroke. <S> IMHO if the toes are having to do all the work (and the cleats are too far forward) <S> then you can tell on a climb - the toes want to give up on you, <S> almost dangerously so... <S> Alignment is also important. <S> Ideally you want the cleats to be pointing forward with the left/right bolts in the same positions in their little slots on each shoe. <S> This can feel 'pigeon toed' when you get on the bike and it does no harm to angle in the heels so long as there is clearance between them and the cranks. <S> On the subject of natural variations, we all have one foot larger than the other, sometimes this can be some margin, in many cases this can be a whole E.U. shoe size. <S> As for determining exactly where the ball of the foot is, with an already worn shoe you can take the insole out and line it up with the sole. <S> Otherwise you have to take an educated 'feel' from looking at your feet on the pedals. <A> The "neutral" position places the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle, which I assume is where you're at. <S> Conventional wisdom has it that sprinters and high-cadence riders will want the cleat positioned a little forward of that <S> , LSD riders a little aft of that. <S> But as with most positioning questions, the right answer is "whatever works for you." <A> Here is a very good article about fitting cleats . <S> It contains advice about: Locating the correct initial position Adjustments from that position, including angle of the foot Maintenance/lubrication <S> I am impressed by the level of detail and would definitely recommend having a look. <A> Just adding one more tool as it were... if possible a final option is to put your bike on a stationary trainer (and grab a friend and a pencil.) <S> Leave the cleat bolts a titch loose (snug, but not fully tight.) <S> Pedal for a few minutes. <S> Then have the friend mark out the cleat position while your stilllocked in. <S> Dismount, line up the cleats with the pencil marks and tighten fully. <S> At least that was the old fashioned way from way back when.
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In practical terms, if placing the cleat so that the ball of the foot to be 10mm forward of the axle, there should be no need to adjust relative cleat positions. We all have variations in gait and this needs to be accommodated with a little bit of adjustment.
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Protecting gadgets against rain during touring When carrying laptop / camera around I'm always stressed out when it starts raining. Living in a city one can easily avoid rain though - but on a long touring trip there will inevitably be cases when you have to bike through rain. What's the safest way to protect gadgets (laptop, camera + lenses, phone, ...) from rain during a long bike trip? What kind of bag would give me complete peace of mind? Or should I just put them in a backpack and wear a good raincoat over the backpack? Anyone else biked with gadgets during rain? <Q> The main compartment of most handlebar bags waterproof when closed. <S> Better models have pockets to keep passports dry. <S> There are also plenty of models on the market that have padding for cameras and lenses. <S> The brand most synonymous with waterproofing is Ortlieb . <S> They make handlebar bags and camera kit inserts for them. <S> There are plenty of other makes on the market, one feature to look out for is the Klickfix bracket that lets you quickly remove the bag for when you are off bike. <S> As for the computer, the best range of bags can be found in High Street computer shops. <S> For light weight get a neoprene cover with no fancy handles or extra pockets. <S> You can then put your neoprene sleeved computer in a pannier. <A> I double bag them (with heavy plastic bags) and then stick them in <S> my supposedly (but not very) waterproof backpack. <S> As long as I don't go swimming like that, they stay dry. :-) <A> Let me tell you from experience what doesn't work: Putting a cell phone in a the pocket of a "waterproof" jacket. <S> I lost a phone that way, and another one saw the light at the end of a foggy, damp tunnel before returning back to life. <S> If you are able to, turn gadgets you are carrying off. <S> Having electricity flow through the system just increases the possibility of problems. <S> For extra paranoia, remove the batteries. <S> My rule of thumb is that any important electric should be "double waterproofed". <S> Usually this is accomplished with a plastic bag (not necessarily anything special), inside a supposedly-waterproof pannier. <S> A small "dry bag" would be durable, waterproof choice for small electronics. <S> For touring, I looked for and found extra thick and tough garbage bags to use as an inner liner for my panniers. <S> These are far less likely to be punctured than garden-variety plastic bags. <S> Again, nothing special-- just a grocery store product. <S> In a pinch, use two plastic grocery bags, applied around the electrics in opposite directions. <S> If the gear does manage to get wet despite your best efforts, let it dry out thoroughly before turning it back on. <A> In addition to rain gear in both, one contains snacks, my daily medications, and other odds and ends. <S> The other mostly carries my full-sized camera, stuck in a large plastic bag if the weather is threatening. <S> My phone (turned off) is in a small plastic bag in one pannier pocket. <S> Last year it rained 4 out of 6 days of our tour, and I had no trouble keeping the camera dry. <S> (In fact, the panniers have pull-out rain covers, so everything else stayed dry as well.) <S> I've never carried a laptop, but I wouldn't have too many reservations about sticking one in a pannier, perhaps padded by some clothing. <A> I have quite thorough experience, the solution is like this: <S> Once I carried also a camera and 4 lens (one of them 500mm) <S> this way... <S> When you go to tropical destinations, it is much harder because you also have to protect your electronics from condensated humidity. <S> That's another story for another answer. <S> Just ask if it's the case. <A> They are intended for kayakers,canoers and boaters. <S> They keep things dry even when submerged. <A> Check out Loksak, http://www.loksak.com/ . <S> They make some fairly inexpensive waterproof bags. <S> They come in various sizes and should have something that will work for you. <S> They're pretty durable, much more so than a ziplock, and the seal is watertight even when submerged. <S> They're also very lightweight and you can even use a touch screen while it's inside. <A> I want dry and <S> b) want containment if they break. <S> So I tend to wrap my wallet in a resealable bag, and fold the opening end over a few times and wrap a rubber band around it to keep it tidy. <S> If I take a bottle of juice or a container of soup to work with me, I wrap it in a resealable bag in case the <S> it breaks on accident (bike falls over, etc). <S> I tend to group items in bags to reduce clutter anyhow. <S> So, if I have a bottle of sunscreen or ketchup, if it gets squished, I'm also well protected against having to scrub out the inside of my bag. <S> Just because your bags are waterproof, doesn't mean the place you open them isn't blowing rain in, either. <S> I've had my bike tip into a puddle with my panniers open and that's just a sad wet mess, of course. <A> REI and other outdoor stores sell Sea to Summit lightweight dry sacks. <S> They're similar to the rubberized dry bags used in kayaking and diving, but they're made of light weight nylon. <S> They come in several sizes. <S> They're a little more reliable than zip-locks and trash bags, which can mysteriously acquire holes and tears. <S> There are probably other brands too, but keep in mind that ordinary stuff sacks are not waterproof.
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I use resealable (like Ziplock) bags around things that a) Most sporting good stores offer a variety of dry bags by sealine,koki and others. When I'm touring ("unloaded") I carry two moderate-sized panniers which end up being about half-full.
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Road Tire Performance in Rain and Snow How well do road tires perform in rain and the snow? I've heard narrow tires are better because they actually can put more weight/pressure on the road through the wet/ice. I just bought Continental Gatorskin tires, live in Boston, and just want to know what I should be thinking about in adverse weather conditions. Relevant info: Riding Cyclocross bike ~35-45 mi/week with 10 mi (roundtrip) commute. Occasional 30-40 weekend jaunts, and am coming from much more threaded cyclocross tires (I never rode off-road much). <Q> Slick tires, like your conti's, have no problem in wet conditions. <S> If the streets you ride in Boston in winter are just wet with occasional light slush you're fine with what you got. <S> You'll want knobby tires if you're regularly riding in something soft like dirt, mud, packed snow or very heavy slush. <S> Slick tires are significantly more squirrely in those conditions. <S> In that case, typical cross tires will be better. <A> Rain and snow aren't so bad. <S> From my experience it's ice, or powder on ice, that can be the real danger. <S> I have Gatorskins, which work just fine in the rain, and for the little amount of snow that I used them in, they weren't too bad. <S> One morning though, the temperature dropped below the dewpoint, and it was below freezing, putting a very thin layer of ice on the road. <S> I took a corner onto a bike path a little too aggressively and took a spill. <S> Luckily no injuries. <S> The bike path had much smoother asphalt than most roads have, adding to the effect of the ice. <A> Road bikes tires do fine on wet asphalt, because they are thin enough for their load to press away the water underneath. <S> Additional attention should be payed to curbs and gully covers, as they can cause the tire to slip and pulling on the bike. <S> Try to hit each swell as orthogonal as possible both vertical and horizontal to minimize forces. <A> A road bike’s tyres are very thin and have little tread. <S> A car tyre however is very wide and has a deep tread. <S> You would think that from this that a car tyre would be more suited to gripping the road surface in wet or snowy conditions. <S> However, because the road bike tyre is so thin, it acts like the deep tread and cuts through the water on the road, parting it like Moses (allegedly) parted the Red Sea.
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So narrow road tyres, even with only minimal tread can actually be very suited to the rain and snow as long as the road has not iced over.
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How do you protect your bike from scratches? Anyone here use protective tape to protect a new frame? To which areas do you apply the tape? I have a new frame and I am worried that other bikes sharing bike racks will scratch my ride. <Q> I use helicopter tape. <S> You can find it on Amazon or from most any race car supply shop. <S> It's a little pricey but <S> well worth it. <S> It's very sticky and thick enough to absorb impacts from rocks. <S> I use it on the bottom side of my downtube, on the drive side chain stay, and anywhere a cable is close to the frame. <A> A protective covering is useful on the chainstay if it is prone to frequent chainslap. <S> Other than that, I'd say that it is worse to try to protect your frame with tape than to just allow it to get an occasional nick and scuff. <S> On a practical note, if you do get some paint chip on a steel frame it is a good idea to dab a little clear nail polish on it to prevent rust from getting started. <S> Finally, if the frame is worth it, you can always have it professionally powder-coated when the time comes. <S> It is like having a new bike. <A> Pieces of old inner tubes secured with painter's or electrician's tape. <S> Roll a few lengths of inner tube around the toptube as needed. <S> Also wrap innertube around your D lock to prevent scratches, or just keep some handy where you carry your good spare inner tube. <A>
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You can buy clear tape meant to fit your bike, or you can save some cash and fit some clear packing tape on the areas that are scratched the most.
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Tire and rim sizing, tubeless conversion? I am looking to shave some weight off my wheels. I am currently commuting on a 26" MTB. The ETRTO size of the rim is 559x22 and the tires are 559x54. As my commute is through the city center, I want to change to slick tires. The question here is will the 559x42 slick tires fit on the rim? Also, can I go tubeless with "Stan's NOTUBES" conversion kit? <Q> Can't speak to the tubeless conversion kit, but pretty much any 559xwhatever tire should fit those rims. <S> A given rim width can accommodate a wide range of tire widths. <S> Seeing as how your desired tires are only 2 mm different, you'll definitely be OK. <A> Tyres come narrower than 559x42 - you can get 26x1.1 Schwalbe Durano that inflate to 110 psi. <S> With less material than a 559x42 tyre they will be lighter and run at higher pressure. <S> Both of these tyres will fit on your rims with no problems (as will 42). <S> As for the narrower width, plenty of road bikes win races and deal with city streets on less. <S> I run narrow Panaracer T-Serv's on one bike and bigger Schwalbe Marathons on another bike. <S> On balance I think that over-doing the thinness results in too harsh a ride with no real difference in weight/acceleration, so maybe your plan to use Stan's NOTUBES might be either a) more hassle than it is worth or b) <S> the only way to get comfort and light weight. <S> You will need a bullet-proof tyre though... <S> I am not sure I would want a puncture with 'glued on' tyres, but that is not what you are asking. <S> Ask at your LBS in the workshop for 'from the horses mouth' on the current deal on tubeless. <S> Also check your rims make and model with 'Stan's' site. <A> From my experience, once I had very wide DH rim on my MTB city bike (that was tempo fix, I had no other rims to put on). <S> On that rim I had 1" slick, and the rim was slightly wider that the actual tire.
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So you should have no problems with any width of a tyre on your rims. Continental Gatorskins come in 26 x 1 1/8" and are popular with shops and riders.
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What is the common "vocabulary" for the captain and stoker to communicate? My wife and I recently rented a tandem for a day. I found that, because everything needs to be communicated -- starting, stopping, changes in cadence, shifting (which might cause changes in cadence), etc. -- we were talking continuously. This was good. What I would like to have is a simple, efficient vocabulary for communicating the essential information. Does this already exist in the same way that riders communicate on group rides? While I realize that we could just make up our own shorthand, if someone has already figured it out, that would be better. <Q> I posted a link to this question to the Bike Friday Yak list - tandem riding is popular there - and got back a few responses, this one in particular. <S> I'm posting this here simply because nobody else seems to have an answer; If this isn't typical, please feel free to edit this answer. <S> A standard signalling vocabulary seems to not exist. <S> This may not be the most efficient way to do this, as the loss of one rider in a team essentially means that the rider left will need to form new signals from scratch. <S> From poster John S. Allen: <S> In my experience, it's either "slow down, I'm scared" or "wow, this is fun!" <S> But seriously, see this by Bill McCready: http://www.gtgtandems.com/tech/propmethod.html <S> This article spends a lot of time on how the team needs to function as a unit, getting a rhythm going. <S> McCready uses the example of mounting the bike and starting, but it's easy to see how this applies to shifting, leaning into turns, etc. <S> Also these pages by Sheldon Brown: <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/tandem.html <S> In particular, this quote is relevant to this question: <S> The team becomes more than the sum of its parts. <S> An experienced tandem team develops a very special level of non-verbal communication, via subtle weight shifts, variations in pedal force, and general empathy. <S> After a few hundred miles together, you will find yourself coasting at the same time, shifting without the need for discussion, and and maneuvering smoothly even at slow speeds. <S> This is not just a matter of each rider's acquiring captaining/stoking skills; when two equally experienced teams switch stokers, something is lost, and this special communication doesn't happen... <S> it really is unique to each couple. <S> While I can imagine that things might be different in competition, it seems there are no standardized communication cues. <S> A tandem team needs to suffer through the initial stages of learning to read both the situation and each other. <S> (Again, I stress that this answer is only the results of my research. <S> If the information here is incorrect, please downvote and leave a comment.) <A> I started tandeming with my wife as stoker, and it was suffering. <S> She is a bit anxious on traffic, and made me too aware of low-level actions about controlling the bike. <S> Eventually, she gave up worrying and we started to talk not about riding or about the bike, but about anything else. <S> Then the things started to really work <S> and we had fun. <S> With my stepson, now 9 years old, it is much different. <S> He has his own bike skills, and is not afraid. <S> I needed two rides to explain what he can and cannot do, and now we just RIDE. <S> I have a theory that, if you, experienced rider and captain, explain some minimal unbreakable rules to an accepting stoker, you never have to mention anything about shifting gears or turning or anything else. <S> Of course not any stoker is accepting of this. <S> But as a minimal, I would say that you must communicate EXCEPTIONAL circumstances to the stoker, because he/she could be distracted. <S> These would be (self explanatory): Gear! <S> (specifically on hard climbs) <S> Branch! <S> Brake! <S> (for stronger-than-usual braking) <S> Hole! <S> Pedal! <S> (to ask for bringing the pedals to some pre-arranged position) <S> Ready? <S> I guess I could say there is no need to much more than this, <S> but of course, what fits me could not fit you. <S> And, as a matter of fact, the more you ride, the less you worry about communication, because the team learns from each other each time more. <A> One important simple communication from stoker to captain: Stop. <S> Explanations can follow later. <S> This is especially important at intersections. <A> Remember the stoker is the boss. <S> Being in the rear, its easier for the front rider to hear the back rider because of the way your mouths are facing. <S> Likewise, the stoker can see the front rider clearly all the time, so non-verbal replies come back easier. <S> For signals starting at the front going backward, the steerer should turn their head around 45 degrees and then try and speak "behind" while keeping eyes on the road. <S> Speaking loudly and clearly helps, as does some kind of "attention word" like starting the statement with "Hey-bump!" <S> rather than just "Bump!" <S> You can also try having the stoker in quite a vertical position to see over the steerer, for social rides. <S> There are modern radios that may help too - motorcycles can have clip-on ear pieces under their helmets which are good for up to a hundred metres range. <S> You can also use a pair of walkie talkies with earpieces, and "VOX mode" turned on so they transmit as soon as you speak.
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Teams need to ride together a lot until signals evolve in time, and every team seems to develop their own shorthand organically. I tell my stoker that if she says "stop" I will follow that command immediately.
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What should I use to lubricate a freehub? I've noticed my freehub has gotten quite a bit louder over the last few months. Several people have recommended that I lubricate the freewheel by tipping the bike on its side and dripping lubricant into the freewheel. However, I've gotten differing opinions on what to use for a lubricant. Is it safe to use a chain lube on the freehub or is there a better lubricant for this purpose? Edit: In response to one of the answers, I have a freehub (2011 bicycle). Question edited appropriately. <Q> Freewheel (old technology) or freehub (current technology)? <S> People tend to use the terms interchangeably, but they are quite different. <S> There's not much in there; a couple of ratcheting "pawls" and their pivots. <S> You don't want anything that will gum up and cause the pawls to stick. <S> On a freehub, the mechanism is pretty well-sealed and greased from the factory. <S> However, they are pretty easy to disassemble in most cases. <S> They do make a clever tool called the " Freehub Buddy " which lets you inject grease into the thing without disassembly. <S> However, at 40 bucks it's a bit steep for home use where you would only use it every couple of years or so. <A> I use chain oil (Chain-L Number 5) and it sucks. <S> have to relube every 4 weeks or so. <S> to really solve your problem: option 1 . <S> open it and use a proper grease. <S> shimano duraace grease, or, as recomended here <S> (i haven't tried yet but will) slick honey grease. <S> option 2 . <S> buy a new one. <S> if your model is common, buy a replacement for $15. <S> cheaper then a pack of grease! <S> i like my 5sp 13-30 too much to replace it. <S> option 3 . <S> the stubborn (my current option) remove wheel. <S> lay it on <S> it's side <S> , gears up roll <S> some rag behind the biggest cog (oil will come out from there). <S> OPTIONAL. <S> if you have a spanner tool, loose the top cover. <S> 2 turns should be fine. <S> warm your bottle of chain oil in the sink under hot water (as hot as you can hold your hand in... if you have a thermometer, should be around 130F, or 55C) <S> drop the warm oil on the top of the freewheel cover <S> wait for oil to go in. <S> if you feel like repeat from step 5. <S> if you loosened your cover, tighten it back. <S> put back the wheel. <A> For a real freewheel see (@M. Werner), you want the lightest oil you can find. <S> Never use WD40. <S> Synthetics can work too. <S> Anything heavier, and (especially in cold), the pawl springs can't snap back fast enough to create an ratchet. <S> As a bike wrench in the time when freewheels and freehubs both existed, I saw too much oil/grease more often than not enough. <S> If it is loud, just add a bit of light oil and move on. <A> since you commented that it freewheels perfectly, all you need is some chain oil in there as mscantland said. <S> any oil really (just not wd40!). <S> general purpose oil will work, like 3-1. <S> whatever you have around. <S> to apply follow my "option 3" from the other answer. <S> it will help with the noise. <S> which is totally 'cosmetic' if it freewheels nicely. <A> I have had great results using ordinary engine oil.
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A freewheel can be pretty effectively lubed with any medium-viscosity oil.
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Where can I find replacement pads for a bicycle helmet? I have a Bell bicycle helmet that is probably two years old, and the pads for the front and sides have disintegrated from sweat and are now little more than pieces of fabric attached to the velcro pads inside the helmet. Does anyone know where I can get replacement pads for the helmet? I have looked on retail sites like jensonusa.com and on the bellhelmets.com site and I can't seem to find them. <Q> Visit the friendly folks at your local bike shop at a quieter time of the week and ask. <S> Chances are that they will have plenty of spare pads tucked behind the counter. <S> Buy something else at the same time <S> and they might let you have them for a favourable price. <S> This is one area where a local bike shop can provide the service that you do not get shopping online, where it is all too easy to get the wrong bits and pay postage for the privilege. <A> Here is the list of Bell helmet spares available in the UK: http://www.madison.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?vertical=Cycling&tier1=Helmets%2c+Eyewear+%26+Protection&tier2=Helmets+-+Accessories+%26+Spares&manu=Bell&resultsperpage=10000 <S> [Edit: that link has died. <S> Try this Google , or this US supplier ] <S> If your helmet is on there then you can find the product code and Google that for someone online that has that part in stock and can sell it to you. <S> Note that Madison is the UK distributor and has different product codes to elsewhere, so a google of the exact product description might come up good. <S> Once you know the product code then your LBS should have no problems ordering it for you. <S> Note that helmets change every 2-3 years <S> and you may not be able to get spares for an older model. <S> Another option is to treat yourself to a new and affordable helmet, this will come with spare pads that you can use on your existing one. <S> Affordable ones have a lot going for them and they still have to pass the same tests as the posh ones. <S> IMHO <S> the Bell helmets are very poorly designed bits of cheap Chinese polystyrene with straps and fit that are not a patch on the European makes, e.g. MET helmets. <S> the MET helmets have straps where the adjustment buckles don't want to align 90 degrees to your skin (to dig in), a clasp that doesn't catch the skin under the chin or straps that need tightening every time you put the thing on. <S> Then there are the Specialized helmets - to the higher Snell standard than the CPSC 'as tested by the manufacturer' standard used by Bell/Giro (did you know they were the same company?). <S> Of course you could also go 'completely Dutch' and forego the 'nice hat' entirely. <A> They're for sale at any grocery, drug store, or discount store. <S> You just have to walk away from the "cycling" section (which is usually very small in most grocery stores) and to the "feminine hygiene" section (which is much larger). <S> And rather than "helmet pads", look for a package labeled "maxi pads" or some such. <S> You'll find nice absorbent pads (about 3/8" thick) with an adhesive strip. <S> One pad will last a long time, but they're cheap enough to discard daily. <S> (Note that I'm being serious -- perhaps not "perfectly serious", but I've used these in my own helmet for decades. <S> And one of the reasons I use them is because I sweat profusely, and they help greatly to prevent sweat running down into my eyes.) <A> A lot of motorcycle racers use lady's panty-liner pads on their foreheads to minimize sweat dripping down. <S> It could work with a bicycle helmet, too. <S> The helmet pads are otherwise almost the same cheap fabric they use for headliners in cars. <S> Buy a few Velcro dots and make your own replacements, or a generic pad set from China for $2.69 on eBay. <S> The pads might not line up perfectly with the vent holes, but as long as they create a slight airspace between your sweaty head and the Styrofoam helmet, it doesn't matter. <S> Sometimes foam weatherstripping they use for doors works, too. <S> I used some to create air channels at the top on one of my helmets.
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Anyway, if the LBS is useless, consider the 'order by part number' route or get a replacement helmet which will come with enough spare pads for your existing one.
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Can a carbon fiber mountain bike handle cool/cold weather? It is late summer in the US and I am starting to look forward to autumn and winter mountain biking. I have a carbon fiber frame though. Didn't get to ride it last winter due to a broken collar bone (almost landed that jump). So, anything to be concerned about riding a carbon fiber mountain bike in cool/cold weather? I am talking anything from 50°F/10°C down to sub freezing temps. <Q> Did a quick look around... <S> And Zinn in Velonews gets questions like this. <A> I have been using carbon handlebars on my mtb for two years now with any issue. <S> Even did a race that was so cold that my drink tube froze before I even started! <A> Many fatbike manufacturers are currently making full carbon frames intended to be raced and ridden at sub zero temperatures. <S> These manufacturers were previously using titanium, but most folks ran all the same carbon parts that everyone else did on their regular mountain bikes. <S> Short answer, yes. <S> This has been done for a long time and the breakage rate hasn't been anything different than normally seen with warm weather riding.
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Short answer is: no problem. Essentially carbon fiber is a pretty tough material and barring manufacturing flaws should put up with a lot.
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Mountain bike rear wheel tilts after remounting Backstory: Total newbie regarding repairing cycles and the proper cycling terminology, so please take that into account. Actual story: I had a fall and the rear wheel started touching the brakes (non-disc), so I took it out aiming to remount it and as a final result I broke the quick release. After a long walk home, went and bought a new quick release (the wheel has some nuts to some effect I'm not 100% sure about). I installed it according to this video (and also followed the "tight enough to leave a mark on the hand, but no tighter" rule I read about somewhere), seemingly aligned (in the middle between the frame). Now, I see two things: The wheel tilts sideways about 1/4" or a bit more, it's not fixed. When under load the wheel ends up either touching the brakes or directly the frame. Thus I think that I'm either misinstalling the wheel, or that after the fall something else got broken or damaged. The actual question is, how to find the actual problem (misinstalling the wheel or something else, or both) and its solution? EDIT: Here's a video of how the wheel tilts, and another video of a possible culprit (damaged spoke). Could that damage explain the amount of tilting? <Q> It could be some spokes or the rim got damaged. <S> You should try touching them to see if any is broken. <S> If they are loose you should tighten them to align the rim. <S> If you can't do it yourself a bike shop will do it for you easily. <S> Broken spokes can be changed. <A> First off, get the bike up on a stand or flip it over on its back and futz with the wheel until it spins mostly free. <S> Then turn it slowly while you observe the clearance between rim and a brake pad. <S> The distance between the two should remain virtually unchanged (no more than 1/32" or so change) as the wheel does a full circle. <S> If the above clearance changes as you rotate the wheel then the wheel is warped and needs to be trued. <S> This is something that someone with reasonable skill can do, but since you're such a newbie you should take the wheel to a shop to have this done. <S> If the wheel spins straight then it's simply a matter of getting the wheel properly centered and tight. <S> Put the wheel into the dropouts, get the quick release snug but not quite tight, and assure that the axle is pushed all the way into the dropout slots. <S> Sight both sides of the wheel between the seat stays and move the not-bottomed-out axle in and out slightly until the space between the tire and both seat stays is the same. <S> Then fully tighten the quick release. <S> I don't know where you got the "leaves a mark" rule for tightening a quick release, or how you're interpreting it, but the QR needs to be quite tight. <S> It should take substantial pressure from the heel of your hand to close it. <S> If you can close it with your fingers only (and you aren't a gorilla) <S> then it's probably not tight enough. <S> Better too tight than too loose! <A> Adjust the bearings before doing anything else. <S> As suggested you should probably take it to a reputable shop for the bearing adjustment. <S> Earl
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Then observe that one side (usually the derailer side) "bottoms out" first in the slot while the other side can go further, causing the wheel to twist slightly. Assuming you take the whole bike into the shop for the bearing adjustment any reputable shop will make sure the quick release problems and brake/frame alignment problems are all resolved at the same time. This is definitely a case of loose bearings in the rear hub based on what I see in your video.
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How do I keep sweat out of my eyes? Heading into the southern hemisphere spring I'm starting to contemplate another summer of having sweat running into my eyes and down my face. I have a couple of lightweight headbands from Netti (that I can't find anymore) that have been reasonably good. They still get saturated on a long ride though and they're old enough that they're starting to smell. There's an interesting thread here with some discussion around this area. I've done some research and seen a couple of options: Halo Headband http://store.haloheadband.com/default.asp Aside from the incredibly lame website they look like a reasonable option, with a fairly unobtrusive design and also the features to redirect sweat away from the eyes when they get saturated. Sweat Gutr http://www.sweatgutr.com/ This looks like it's very effective, but I'm not 100% sold on having all the sweat running down near my ears. Plus how would it fit with helmet and glasses? Cotton Bandanna The general opinion here appears to be that once it's wet, it's useless. <Q> When wearing a helmet (and you're in Australia, so I assume you are) <S> I almost always use an undercap, be it a classic styled cycling casquette , a skull cap or, in winter, a thicker beanie, perhaps with ear protection. <S> In summer a casquette works well because I find that the sweat does form on the peak, but can then either drip off or evaporate more easily. <A> I have had good luck with Headsweats . <S> They are pretty absorbent and keep my balding head somewhat protected from the sun under my helmet. <A> Halo headband combined with a "maxipad" (stuck to the inside of the helmet) is what I use. <S> The maxipad can be changed at every stop if need be, but usually one is sufficient for an all-day ride. <S> (And I sweat quite profusely.) <A> I have tried everything to keep sweat out of my eyes while cycling, <S> I have a well ventilated helmet, <S> If you are a heavy sweater riding at a high intensity and the temperature is warm and or humid, some people will find that every one of the things I mentioned are completely useless. <S> It comes down to the fact that while road cycling your head is in a down position, and unless you can figure out a way to make liquid flow uphill <S> a device like the sweat gutter or halo headband isn't going to work for some people in some conditions. <S> " <S> hey paceline <S> can you all wait for me while I wring out my do-rag?"). <S> I'm working on something that will divert the sweat rather than absorb it, allowing the sweat to run off at the downward edges rather than into your eyes-perhaps a combination of a non-absorbing cycling hat type brim and elastic headband gizmo. <A> I just use a helmet 661 recon with good ventilation and liner, that absorbs sweat and dries fast. <S> It really helps, sweat doesn't gets at your eyes. <S> And you can get spare liner if you are going to a long trip. <A> I wear the Halo Visorband . <S> It basically looks like I'm wearing a cycling cap under my helmet but without the layer of fabric over the top of my head. <S> I also use the Headsweat brand headbands which are effective. <S> They make a few style, some thicker than others. <S> I pull the pads of out my helmet (Giro Atmos) except for the one at the top of my skull. <S> The thing is, if it's hot enough and the wind is at my back <S> or I get stopped at a light I get sweat in my eyes and <S> once it starts its hard to stop. <S> I make sure I have something in my jersey pocket to wipe my eyes. <S> If I use my bare fingers I make the problem worse! <S> So for me it's one of the commercial sweatbands and either cotton or microfiber cloth accessible for when the burn takes over. <S> Speaking of burn, keeping sunscreen and other products away from the area above the eyes helps. <S> It's a trade off of course because this is where we need sunscreen but that stuff in the eyes can be deadly. <S> And that's not hyperbole. <A> I just had a hot ride. <S> The simplest thing was to unclip and remove my helmet's visor, which allows more airflow to the area above the eyes. <S> For some reason its always my left eye that catches the sweat, and doing this helped a lot. <S> Also tilt your helmet back a little (but still leave the face protected in event of a mud-sucking fall and slide.)
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At stops, I squeegee along my helmet's headband to help remove the sweat soaked into the material. I've used cycling caps, the plastic 'sweat gutter' device, the halo headband, and the coolmax 'do-rags'. Anything that relies on absorbing sweat isn't going to absorb enough that you won't need to stop frequently to wring it out (detrimental in competitive cycling-
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Can I ride faster with a bike jersey? I normally wear a cotton t-shirt when I ride. If I get a bike jersey, how much difference will the reduced air resistance make at, for example, 20 mph? I realize it's not possible to be precise, but I am wondering how much difference it makes. <Q> No, you will not ride faster in any meaningful way unless you're doing time trials at an elite level where mere seconds (or less) of improvement are gained through optimizing a long list of equipment (with clothing in the middle of that list). <S> As always, the overwhelming determinant of performance is training. <S> The real reason for wearing a jersey is the following: Sweat management. <S> Wicking fabric has to lie against to the skin to actually wick the sweat and transport it to the exterior where the wind will evaporate it quickly. <S> Pockets in rear. <S> Pockets are useful. <S> The only place you can reasonably put them is in back. <S> Long rear. <S> It looks better when you're hunched over the bike. <S> A zipper. <S> So you can regulate temperature. <S> Fitted + Flat seams. <S> Flapping fabric is annoying on a ride and seams tend to painfully rub on long rides. <A> This page contains a table with improvements that can be made with various aero clothing and equipment. <S> Unfortunately the baseline is already a cycling jersey, not a standard cotton t-shirt. <S> Given the improvements that clothing can provide though I would suggest the bike jersey would make a pretty big difference. <S> For me, though the big improvement is in comfort. <A> There are several differences between a plain cotton t-shirt and a cycling jersey. <S> @Mac has already highlighted the sweat wicking potential. <S> Some jerserys are tailored, so they'll certainly be more comfortable and possible aero-dynamic. <S> After all a tight t-shirt won't necessarily be worse <S> aero-dynamically - it might flap around less, aside from the different flow properties of the chosen materials. <S> Many jerseys have other attributes though: pockets, zips, reflective strips, longer backs - all of these things might help make other aspects of your attire more stream-lined. <A> If you want to be precise, this page originally by Rainer Pivit but found on the excellent Sheldon Brown site has the relevant formula. <S> The key factor in reducing wind resistance is minimizing the frontal area of the bike and the rider. <S> But at the rates of speed we are talking about for recreational or utility cycling, the impact will be minimal.
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A tight, form fitting t-shirt or cycling jersey will provide some benefit, and will reduce the 'parachute' effect of flapping clothing. A sweat wicking jersey is so much more comfortable than a wet, heavy cotton t-shirt. In short - the effort required to reach and maintain a given speed is a combination of overcoming the forces of gravity, friction and wind resistance.
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Mountain bike rain coat / jacket (packable, not for winter) I am looking to get a thin rain coat. I have a good one for the depths of winter (it needs water proofing again), but it is way too hot to wear it any other time. (I am a portable radiator.) My hope is that it would be thin, so not too hot, and that it will pack down into a small size so I can store it in my bag whilst riding. (I like to do long rides so may not want it all day.) I do 70/30 offroad to on road riding, as much off road as I can get but I don't have the best selection of hills at my door step. I am happy to build up my layers so that the coat is only there to stop the rain. Main points I guess are: stops the rain will not get me too hot packs away small for transport when not needed. I swear I saw a good review of half a dozen or so such jackets a while ago, but for the life of me I can not find them anymore. Does anyone know of a good jacket, or even better, links to good reviews to be able to look at the best options? <Q> Recently introduced by 'Altura' (the poor British man's 'Endura') is the 'Pocket Rocket': <S> This jacket is distributed by Zyro and widely available in British bike shops. <S> Visit a stockist and try for size wearing what you expect to be wearing underneath, i.e. more than a T-Shirt. <S> Remember that when buying from the LBS you may pay RRP rather than 'online price', however, you won't pay postage, have to wait or be bereft of a coat if a seam goes and you need to take it back. <S> (Altura seams are pretty good <S> b.t.w.) <S> Available in black, yellow or red versions of hi-viz, the reflective parts of this jacket will dazzle on-coming motorists. <S> A neat feature are the thumb loops that enable you to keep the sleeves tucked under your gloves. <S> IMHO <S> a lot of 'breathable' does not work, so there is no point bothering with it. <S> There is some rating of breathability for this jacket, but you can expect some 'boil in the bag' aspect. <S> Waterproofing is claimed 100%, just what you asked for. <S> It is also nice to have a relatively plain jacket without any fancy colours or extra seams. <S> This jacket keeps it simple. <S> The pack size is exactly what you want, i.e. very small: <S> You can dangle it on the handlebars if you are in casual clothes and without a bag. <S> If you get this jacket, expect people you know to want to permanently borrow it. <S> Also expect to see other people on bikes with a jacket remarkably similar to yours. <A> I'm a fan of the Marmot PreCip. <S> It's light, cheap (relatively), has pit zips which you will need for riding in warmer weather, a hood, and it packs up fairly small. <S> Mine has been very durable as well. <S> http://marmot.com/products/precip_jacket <A> As mentioned above, breathability can be a problem in the UK, and when you're honking up a hill in warm, wet air nothing is going to breath very well. <S> Pit zips are a key feature on a jacket - winter or otherwise - and will increase a garment's versatility.
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A pack-to-nothing jacket is truly useful to just have.
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Why am I slow on flat surfaces? I've been riding about 300 miles a week for the last 2 years. I'm not riding in races, just riding with friends. I always ride 60+ miles (95+ km), and I'm in excellent shape. I have a low end road bike. When riding up hills or in strong head winds I am very fast. But when I ride on flat surfaces I can't seem to keep up. I'm wondering if it's the bike or my riding style. <Q> The key to understanding your situation is its unusual nature. <S> Speed on hills is mostly determined by power-to-weight, while speed on the flat is mostly determined by power-to-aerodynamic drag. <S> The problem is that speed in head winds is also mostly determined by power-to-aero drag, so the conundrum is why you're good in head winds but not on the flat under calmer conditions. <S> If this is truly your problem, the answer is more likely to be the numerator (i.e, power) than the denominator (aero drag). <S> Crank inertial load (CIL) can be thought of as related to "how much momentum is maintained with each pedal stroke" and varies with the fourth power of gear ratio, so when you're cruising along at high speed on a flat road your CIL is high while when you're climbing a steep hill in a low gear your CIL is relatively low. <S> When you're climbing a steep hill you slow down a lot if you don't keep pedaling pretty steadily while if you're on the flat you can vary cadence or pedal force (within reasonable limits) without much change in speed. <S> The "feedback" you get from the cranks with momentum is the crank inertial load. <S> Many riders appear to modulate their cadence in response to CIL, even at the same power . <S> The last piece of information we need to address the puzzle is that in head winds, people will often gear down lower than they ordinarily would for a given gradient under calm winds. <S> So, if you appear to do well in climbing and in head winds <S> but not so well on the flat, this indicates that your power production appears to be relatively high under low CIL conditions but not so high under high CIL conditions. <S> If you've ridden much with a power meter you would likely observe that your power is higher and steadier on hillclimbs than on the flat; more than that, you would probably observe that you have difficulty holding high power on modest descents. <S> There is some evidence that muscle fiber type influences freely chosen cadence <S> so it may be the case that your muscle type is especially canted in one direction that favors power production under low CIL. <A> 300 miles a week is extremely high mileage. <S> Very few people can pull that off. <S> I'm surprised that you feel you need to ask for advice. :-) <S> That said the way the cyclists increase speed, like runners and swimmers, is to train with intervals. <S> This means increasing your speed until you're at/near/slightly-above lactate threshold, holding it for a minute or two, then resting for short time and repeating this multiple times. <S> The bottom line is that this is a matter of following a training program. <A> I've been on rides before where I felt like I couldn't keep up, and only later realized that my brake was rubbing the whole way. <A> I used to be in the same situation, during the bike split of the triathlon races I participated in, I would pass a lot of people on the climb and could not keep up with them on the flat. <S> I changed my tires and gained a bit of speed, then I changed my wheels and was now able to ride at the same speed as others. <S> (and I bought low end wheels) <S> It turns out the bearing in my wheels were dead. <S> Look at the difference in spinning between your wheels and wheels of others. <S> If it's not the problem then I'll go with the CIL and muscle fiber theory. <S> Have a nice ride Tom
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Some riders tend to have more difficulty managing power on the flat than climbing; this is thought to be related to crank inertial load. At 300mi/week you definitely have the "base" down (far more than most folks), now you just have to practice intervals/speed-work. It's obvious, but check to make sure your wheels spin freely.
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Brake piece grinding against fork This brake was installed on a fixed-gear that did not come with any brakes. The nut on one side rubs against the fork, and over time it rotates and presses the pad against the wheel. Here is where it is rubbing: The workaround is to unscrew the break and re-center it, but it wiggles its way back and I'd rather a more permanent solution. The first thing that occurs to me is to put a washer on the bolt between the brake and the fork, but the bolt is just barely long enough to screw into the nut. Could I get a washer and a longer nut to handle this? Would that fix the problem? The other idea I had was to file down the nut in the photo so it doesn't contact the fork, but that just feels like a bad idea. [Edit]As requested, here's a shot that shows the whole brake: <Q> @Adam Rice is almost there, diagram and suggestion included for what to do now... <S> First, you need a curved 18mm diameter washer between the brake and the fork. <S> Your brake is a Shimano clone, here is how the original Shimano drive works out: <S> Secondly, you need a 27mm long pivot nut on the back. <S> If your existing nut is 18mm <S> then that is a front nut too, but not suited for your fork. <S> If the nut is 12.5mm or shorter then it is for the back brake. <S> What now? <S> Visit your local bike shop on a quieter day of the week and ask for help from the workshop with your predicament. <S> All bike shops have a drawer full of such parts, they may charge ~50p per nut/bolt/washer which is not representative of the cost of the bit or their time to find it for you. <S> If you are buying something else, e.g. treat yourself to a new track pump, then they may be more helpful and do you the washer/nut out of good will. <A> Your caliper should stay reasonably well-centered. <S> Are you certain that all the nuts and washers are in place to allow you to adjust the position of the brake with a thin brake wrench and then tighten the the other two nuts to keep everything in place? <S> Yes, there is a hole in there for that <S> but it is more of an afterthought than a critical design feature. <S> One can't expect any caliper to fit. <S> I would consider the following in this order: <S> Double check all hardware is in place and adjusted properly so it doesn't pivot over time. <S> You might or might not be able to find a longer recessed nut to go into your fork hole and thus allow a spacer washer to position the caliper a little bit further from the fork. <S> It looks from the picture that you're using a dual-pivot brake? <S> Sidepulls are a little smaller and might not interfere with the fork. <S> Replace your track fork with a road fork that can take the brake you need it to take. <S> I would not file down the interfering nut. <A> Typically there will be a serrated washer between the brake arms and the fork to prevent the brake mech from rotating. <S> I can't tell if you've got one installed, but if you don't, you should. <S> It's hard to tell from the picture you've posted, but I think there should be more separation between the brake arms and the fork, regardless. <S> Front brakes and rear brakes are different in that the mounting screw is much shorter on rear brakes, and so is the recessed nut. <S> Is it possible <S> you're mounting a rear brake in front? <S> That would account for the limited stack-height capacity you've got on that brake.
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Other than that, a track fork really isn't designed for a brake. Either get the bike booked in (and expect to pay their minimum workshop time booking slot) or buy the 18mm washer + 27mm nut and do it yourself. Note that there is no serrated washer between the curved washer and the brake. Replace caliper with something that will fit.
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What kind of bike rack can go with this bike? I'm looking for a bike rack to put on my bike so that I can hookup the baby seat with the bike. However, I don't see anywhere on my bike where I can mount the front bracket arms of the rack to it (please see pic.1). There is place to mount the lower arms, though (as shown in pic.2). Pic.3 shows the whole bike. Do you know which bike rack can go with this bike? <Q> Your bike looks like it comes equipped with a full-suspension frame, and the suspension mechanism is located where one would usually attach the rack stays. <S> This will make attaching a rear rack extremely difficult, and almost certainly less secure. <S> I don't recommend attaching a rear rack to this bike, particularly not one that will be holding a child seat. <S> Instead, you could look into a child trailer. <S> (For more information on child seats compared to child trailers, have a look at this answer .) <S> Please note that pulling a trailer with any full-suspension bike can cause problems (see the comments). <A> Of course, the rack would get some extra jouncing from the suspension. <S> That appears to be a fairly small wheel, though, so you'd need a rack designed for small wheels (so the front rack strap to the brake bolt wouldn't be excessively long). <S> Best bet is to find a shop that carries a variety of racks and try them on. <S> (Of course, anything you find is apt to be less than ideal to support a child seat.) <A> Upsides - child is between your arms and you can see them easily. <S> They get a decent view of the road, not the rider's backside. <S> The fitment bar is secure between seatpost and headset, but the seat itself can be removed or moved to another bike. <S> Plus they work on full-suspension bikes as well as rigids and hard tails. <S> The weight distribution is good unlike a rear child seat which makes the back of the bike super-top-heavy. <S> Kid's foot boxes make semi-good front fenders in the wet. <S> Downsides - they're not cheap. <S> Riding with the seat in place may interfere with your knee movements leading to some knee strike or knees splayed outward. <S> Center-handlebar mounted things are harder to get to (your garmin perhaps?) <S> Your waterbottle is fine but is harder to get to so stop to drink. <S> You can only use them for a few years till the kid is too big. <S> And the biggest downside? <S> The stoker's not pulling their weight!
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You could use a rack that attaches at the brake bolt. My personal preference for child seats is a Wee Ride or Yepp or other brand of seat that holds the child between your arms while riding.
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Maintenance lube for Aluminum Electra Townie My wife just bought me a used Electra Townie with aluminum frame and wheels. The previous owner claimed it had been serviced in the past year. Checking the bearings, I can tell it was a poor job of lubrication, probably done by the seller using who knows what for lube. What lube(s) are proper for the various bearings, etc on this bike? <Q> This is because the balls are tiny spheres of metal that deform under your weight. <S> Hence the bearings must be tightened up slightly beyond feeling smooth when unloaded. <S> Due to quality of parts, i.e. not perfect, a pre-loaded bearing feels 'rough' and requires effort to spin it. <S> There are proper ways of applying the correct pre-load, e.g. with the use of a torque meter, however, 'feel' is a good way to do it. <S> To understand that 'feel', go into a bike shop and try to turn the spindles on the new wheels that are for sale. <S> With rare exceptions all of them will feel rough - this is preload. <S> Now see how your own spindles/axles feel when you turn them without load, chances are that they feel pretty much the same. <S> If you have rough bearings then you might think the grease is missing. <S> Chances are that it is just the preload and not a grease problem at all. <S> If you are going to dive in there anyway, do get a handle on the preload concept. <S> As for your question on grease, a little grease goes a long way and you don't want it contaminated. <S> The white lithium grease in a tube from your local bike shop will do fine. <S> Yes you can buy posh coloured 'marine' grease but preload is what matters most with bearing setup. <A> There are several premium brands such as Phil Wood, but whatever the LBS has on their rack should be as good in 99% of the cases. <S> More important is removing any traces of dirt, which generally means washing the bearing pieces in solvent. <S> As stated, properly tightened bearings will feel ever so slightly "gritty" when you turn the axle by hand. <A> I do not want to go into brand recommendations, but any general bike grease should be fine. <S> I have good experience with Motorex Bike Grease 2000 (here goes brand recommendations), but really, this is not rocket science and you cannot do anything really wrong. <S> Just clean it, put enough grease there and <S> you are good to go. <S> I suspect that the grease used before was too old and had started degrading. <A> You don't say wether this bike came equipped with an internally-geared hub. <S> If you have an 8-speed IGH then you should get a tube of Shimano's white grease they make specifically for this hub. <S> There's also a lubricating bath they sell that you would use to flush and lube the guts.
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Any standard bike bearing grease will be fine. Cup and cone bearings on a bicycle need 'preload' for them to work properly under load.
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Silencing a rattling u-lock I'm not sure if they're all like this, but my u-lock is a bit loose between the two pieces, the U and the bar. The provided mount snaps very very tightly onto the U, leaving the bar to fend for itself, so when I ride, any little bump makes the lock rattle. I believe the main source of the noise is the loose (non-locking) interface between U and bar; it's metal-on-metal there. It's pretty obnoxious (and I feel like anyone I pass by must think my bike is broken), so if I have a bag I toss the lock in there instead. Sometimes that's not an option though, so I'd really love to stop the rattle while it's in the mount. I believe it's one of these : I expect that the little rubber rings are supposed to push up against the bar, and keep things held in place, but mine is loose enough that the right side wiggles around plenty. <Q> Anything that will "bunch up" as Mathew suggests should work. <S> You can slip a piece of tubing over the end of the U, or some O rings, or wrap with electrical tape. <S> The object is not to have material actually go into the hole where the U fits, but to "bunch up" at the hole. <S> Otherwise, you could probably run a bungie from the loose piece to some frame member to keep it in tension. <A> Heatshrink SOLVES this problem completely. <S> Go to radioshack, buy the smallest about of heatshrink <S> you can that'll fit, <S> get a heat gun or a lighter or even a blowdrier in a pinch, and say goodbye to the rattling. <A> I have a piece of normal inner tube surrounding the U part of my U-lock and that does the trick. <S> It is a bit longer than the actual plastic coated part of the 'U' and bunches up when I close the lock. <S> I carry the lock on my bike rack or on my rucksack shoulder strap (it has a slot in it), depending on what bike I am on. <S> With your lock bracket clamping to the 'U' I am not sure if you will be able to get the inner tube approach to work, however, I thought I might share that idea with you to help you improvise a solution of your own. <A> I've just solved this with two washing machine hose washers (they're the rubber washers that make the seal between the screw part of the hose and the tap, and they cost a few pence). <S> Take the existing sleeves off the ends of the U, put the washers on, put the sleeves back on. <S> Problem solved. <S> Lock silenced. <S> It's like having a brand new bike. <A> I have a lock of the pictured design. <S> The rubber rings at the ends of the U would be perfectly good for the job of pressing against the bar to keep it from rattling, except that they're not close enough to the bar to do that. <S> I used rubber O-rings from the hardware store (found in faucet repair parts) as shims between the original thick rubber rings and the black sleeve over the main body of the U. <S> The advantage of this approach over some of the other suggestions is that you are less likely to get stray material jammed in the interface between the U and the bar, because the supplied rubber rings are thick, close fitting, and otherwise suited for this job — just in need of a little spacer. <S> (I originally used plastic cable ties, but those are too wide, have a lump at one point, and eventually failed under sunlight.) <A> I went the cheap route. <S> I cut small squares of rubber from a flat bike tube <S> and then I cut a little slit in the center of each. <S> I pushed each down the lock until it cleared the cut in the metal for the locking mechanism. <S> I ended up using 3 squares per side of the lock. <A> Simplest way I have found to do this is with a "Bag for life" from Sainsbury's or Tesco, cut a section about 2.5 inches square and push it inside with a pencil. <S> Works perfectly for me. <S> It tends to last about 10-12 months depending on how much you use the lock. <A> On one of my locks none of the suggestions above would fit or work. <S> Here's what did - hot glue : <S> I ran a bead of hot glue round the (degreased) body around the hole where the shackle goes in, then inserted the (previously greased) shackle briefly. <S> To make it easier <S> I did one end at a time. <S> I also had the shackle part way in while applying the glue, so I didn't push it into the lock body. <S> It's quite possible to peel the glue off and have another go if it doesn't work. <S> A similar trick can be done with silicone sealant <S> but then you have to leave the shackle in place while it sets. <S> Both glues will cut with a knife if you manage to glue the lock shut. <A> Another possible solution is to grease the mating points of the lock Your bike lock lives on your bike, outside a lot and in the elements. <S> Downsides, grease is messy and can get on your hands and clothes. <S> But other parts of your bike are greasy/oily too. <S> Upside, your lock will rust less, and should close smoother. <A>
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I wrapped elastic/rubber bands round each end of the U. Enough to put force against the lock when seated. Grease helps shed water, but it also fills voids which will cut down on the rattle.
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Are there research graphs for the Rotor Q Ring system? I was looking into Rotor Q Ring system that supposedly increases power by 4% which is rather significant especially when climbing. It should shave off quite some time off your resulting time due to this info. But I can't seem to find any detailed research done by comparing classic round cranks against Rotor's Q Rings. Anybody knows where to look? <Q> Yes. <S> If you do, you'll find this: The influence of elliptical chainrings on 10 km cycling time trial performance , which is a comparison of Rotor Q rings at two different orientations (100 and 110 deg) against round conventional cranks. <S> The riders were "blinded" to the cranks (the cranks were housed in a guard or shroud <S> so the riders couldn't see which ones they were using). <S> The experimental design was randomly counterbalanced. <S> The result was that no statistically significant difference was detected in power or RPE (rating of perceived exertion) between the Q rings and the round ring. <S> Heart rate was higher to a statistically significant degree with the Q rings. <S> The "4%" improvement in power was not observed. <S> This means, for example, that you should either test power differences with a Power Tap or on a rear wheel driven ergometer -- crank-based power meters assume that cadence is constant within each pedal stroke so they can simplify power calculations. <S> If crank angular velocity does vary within the stroke (and high force corresponds with the lower velocity) <S> the estimated power will be biased high. <S> The degree of bias will depend, of course, on the individual rider's exact mix of angular velocity and force application but 3% bias is not unexpected. <A> This review from Procycling has some graphs comparing oval and standard rings. <A> The science link on the Rotor website has a fairly thorough group of tests through various Spanish and Italian Universities and hospitals. <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/increase_speed_senkirol.pdf <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_new_univ_valladolid.pdf <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_summary.pdf <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/knee_health_rs4x_new_univ_zaragoza.pdf <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/wattage_increase_rs4x_new_univ_ferrara.pdf <S> http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/metabolic_improvements_rs4x_univ_valladolid.pdf <S> Was there something further you were looking for?
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As an aside, if you are testing round vs. eccentric chainrings, you must account for the difference in cadence within the pedal stroke for eccentric rings. If you want to know about independent research, a good place to start looking is PubMed.
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Do your legs get tired faster when riding a recumbent trike compared to a upright bike? In my quest for getting as much information as I can before configuring my recumbent trike, I was thinking if my legs would be get more tired as they are in a horizontal position? In an upright bike, my legs would be "resting" on the pedals as they are on top of them. In the recumbent trike, my legs would be in a horizontal position and my thighs would have to keep them up as well as providing the power to do the pedalling. Are my assumptions correct? <Q> I'm not a pro rider and have never used clips on any bike. <S> Even on your upright bike you train your legs and feet to stay where they're supposed to... if they just relaxed they'd fall off the pedals no matter which bike you're on. <S> I've been riding my recumbent for almost 3 years now and have little interest in riding anything else, though it did take a week or two to get the "new muscle groups" factored in. <S> I find it less fatiguing for my legs since it takes less effort to go the same distance or speed on the 'bent (less wind resistance etc.) <S> The worst thing I had to get used to was the lack of ability to "stand up on the pedals" for quick jack-rabbit starts or climbing hills. <S> That took a bit of getting used to, including getting very intimate with my derailleur shifting. <S> The first few times you stop without gearing down for the next takeoff teach you quickly to avoid stopping without downshifting at all costs. <S> Climbing hills, you just go through the gears more instead of standing up and pumping to get "over the top". <S> I'm not a fast rider by any means <S> but I find I can keep up with and occasionally pass upright riders who pass me on straight and level but run out of steam as they climb hills closely in front of me. <S> I haven't ridden for extremely long distances (I normally drive the first part of my 32 mile commute and park the car and ride the last 7 miles to and from work) but I have ridden the entire 32 miles several times without problems of any sort keeping the feet on the pedals. <S> When coasting down long hills (I cannot keep up with the pedals over ~26 MPH) <S> I have no trouble keeping the legs and feet in proper position as I rip down the hills. <A> On a upright bicycle you have a part of your weight on your legs part or even most of the time. <S> I would say that makes for less tired legs. <S> I have noticed that at the end of a day long ride I keep sitting on my 'bent trike with my feet on the pedals when waiting for our local ferry, while when on an upright bike I walk around a bit to relax my legs, no matter how short or long the ride has been. <S> Whether I keep sitting on my 'bent bike depend on how easy it is to hold on to something to keep balance, but when it is easy I stay on the bike more often than not. <A> Not really. <S> I would not ride a recumbent for much distance without my feet being clipped in. <S> The obvious way to do this would be with cleats, but there are also special pedal design for recumbents that includes a sling that runs under the heel. <S> Nice thing about a trike is that you never need to clip out. <S> There's the bigger issue that it takes a while to get your <S> "recumbent legs"—you use your leg muscles differently on a 'bent <S> —so in that sense, yes, your legs would get tired faster, until they adapted.
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On a recumbent bike you do not have any part of your weight on your legs. Once your legs get used to the new position, as Adam mentions, I doubt you'll get any more fatigue or whatever than you did previously.
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What items should be in a bare-minimum first-aid / emergency kit? Yesterday I was hit by a car; very minimal injuries and overall a very minor accident--but in hindsight it's made me realize I was ill prepared and really should have a small emergency kit with me at all times. This kit would be for true "emergencies" only, not bike breakdowns. If I find myself injured--or others find me injured and unconscious--what items and information should I have with me? This kit should: contain the bare essentials be very compact and convenient to either transfer between bikes or build one for every bike durable with very little maintenance obvious to bystanders and/or emergency responders so that it will be found and opened if need be <Q> Water <S> Some sort of antiseptic, ideally something like a small bottle of Betadine, though regular ointment/cream will do fine, <S> and it wouldn't hurt to have both Gauze pads, in a couple of sizes Adhesive tape <S> A few large Band-Aids <S> Some tissues or cotton pads for wiping off a wound <A> That should get you through most serious injuries, at least those that could be treated by someone without much medical knowledge. <S> Things like band aids are nice but more of a luxury, anything that can be covered by a band aid isn't a big deal. <S> I agree with having numbers written down too, nobody remembers phone numbers anymore. <A> The items I've thought of which I consider critical to keep on me whenever riding (from here on out) are: Durable form of identification (laminated, plastic, etc) <S> Primarily in case I'm unconscious <S> Summary of medical information Blood type, known medical allergies, health conditions, etc <S> Emergency contact numbers <S> Probably not critical to carry, but they're light and compact and would have helped rinse the road grit from my wounds <S> Also, water was invaluable for quickly cleaning out my road rash. <A> Maybe also a pair of nitrile gloves - lots of people are skittish about getting near someone else's blood. <S> Also, I've used my first aid kit on other folks more often than myself. <A> It depends on your definition of first aid. <S> How long will it take you to get to a doctor in an emergency? <S> If it's only a few minutes, you need something to stop bleeding and close a wound. <S> An hour or two, and you need disinfectants, something to clean the wound, and maybe personal medications. <S> If you're several hours or days from help, the bare minimum list gets longer and more controversial. <S> I joked about a cell phone, but if you ride where there's cell service, you're crazy not to carry one. <A> The main thing that I carry is: A small knife Electrical tape <S> Paired with a t-shirt this can make any sized bandage. <S> The other plus is that they are also useful for bike repairs. <S> Here is the trick to keep the tape small: <S> Cut a small piece of cardboard from a cereal box <S> Unwrap the tape from the roll over the square cereal box square Unwrap when needed. <S> (Much more compact than bringing a roll).
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If you're going for bare minimum: Betadine (or some sort of antiseptic) roll of sterile gauze Ace bandage Epipen or Benadryl space blanket I have my name, address, emergency contacts, etc on a gummed label stuck to the top bar of my bike and covered with clear tape And, of course, cell phone, money, and ID (placed somewhere where people can find it). After my accident I had to borrow a phone, I only knew the phone number of one person to call A couple gauze bandages and/or adhesive bandages
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Where to find bolts for an old Raleigh Bicycle? The college kid in our family has a old/ancient Raleigh 3 speed bike with long fenders. Those fenders are held in place with a strange bolt that is threaded on both ends and has a head near one end. The short end is screwed into the frame, the long end accepts the fender rods, and then a bolt tightens down on them. I removed the bolt with an 11/32" socket, but the closest fit I can find is a metric size. However that fit is either too loose (5mm 0.8) or too large (6mm 1.0). So I'm guessing some wonky British bolt, or some proprietary Raleigh bolt. Anyway, do you know of any place that might have bolts that fit this kind of bike? I've emailed the local Raleigh bike shop and either they don't know how to work their email, or they have no answer.... Image from comments, in-lined to prevent link rot. <Q> I spent my formative years in a Raleigh Five Star Dealership that just so happened to buy up all of the vintage Raleigh mudguards of the steel type for 26" wheel 3 speed bikes. <S> (Raleigh had a warehouse clearance.) <S> That was in the UK and we had mudguards for everything going back to AFTER the requirement for the white panel on the rear mudguard. <S> Nothing from the the 70's onward had the bolt type you describe, although we also had a lot of frames including ones with the 7/32" x 26 TPI eyelets. <S> Sounds to me that you either have a U.S. special, something really obscure, something really, really old or something after-market. <S> I suggest that you put some new mudguards on there. <S> It will be a lot less hassle. <S> For those new mudguards you can drill out the existing holes or use 5mm nuts and bolts, obviously with a fair few washers in there. <S> These could then be attached with a metric nut and bolt. <A> If you can't find an exact replacement for the original, you might be able to use a normal stud (McMasterr Carr sells a large selection here ) and but a bolt down one side to act as the 'seat'. <S> Also, look around for car exhaust manifold studs. <S> I Googled "exhaust manifold stud" and this image came up : <S> And another example of exhaust manifold studs: <S> Note that some of them look very similar to the example image posted by Daniel in the comments to your original post. <A> Not having seen a picture of this bolt, I may be entirely misunderstanding what you have. <S> It seems to me though, from the narrative you give, that being threaded on both ends isn't a necessity for this set-up. <S> Remember that Raleigh had their own machine shop and created all of their own screws and bolts, back in the olden days--many of those nuts and bolts simply do not follow any standard. <S> You will not find a modern piece of hardware to fit in that hole. <S> What I would recommend is a self-tapping screw. <S> Find a self-tapping screw that is slighly larger than the hole in question. <S> If you need a spacer between the fender and the frame, stick it in there. <S> Make sure the screw is long enough to go throught the fender/spacer combination and still bite into the frame-hole. <S> Use a socket wrench and a little pressure. <S> The end result should be a screw which holds the fender to the frame... <S> the head should be inside of the fender. <S> Do choose a screw with a smallish head that won't interfere with the wheel. <S> Ideally, you won't have to file it down once installed--or you'll never be able to remove it! <S> Good luck.
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You might be able to find a hardware shop or auto parts dealer that carries a variety of studs you can try to match up. It may be a piece of hardware that simply cannot be found anymore. If you want to keep the retro look of the existing mudguards, you could make your own 'P' clips with a bit of tin, some snips and a drill. If you know someone who has a tap and die set, it might help to use it to measure the size and thread pitch of the original.
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Rolling dismount: leg crosses over in front of you or behind? When doing a rolling dismount, one foot stays on its pedal, the other has to cross over somehow. Would you suggest crossing over in front of you (while sitting, folding you knee to allow the cross-over) or behind you (standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over. Note: I don't mean to know which you prefer, rather which is safer/easier/quicker than the other, and why. <Q> Unless you have a Victorian ladies style frame, crossing your leg in front of you is a fine way to crash. <A> While I strongly recommend coming to a complete stop , I would think that standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over would be safer. <S> In the cross-in-front alternative, your pedal foot is stuck behind the leg that hits the ground <S> and I would expect there to be a significant risk of getting tangled up while in this 'grapevine' position and tripping. <A> I agree with previous answers, cross the leg behind you. <S> But, if there is a reason for which you prefer to do it crossing the leg in front of you, in the final dismount movement, I recommend to hop out of the saddle and land with both feet on the ground more or less at the same time but with one in front of the other (Preferably the one that crossed from the other side should be in front). <S> This maneuver should allow you to quickly star the run or walk prior to the complete stop. <A> Moving the leg around behind you is better because after it's around, you can put it on the ground without crossing your legs. <S> In other words, suppose you keep your left foot in the pedal. <S> If you bring your right foot over the front, then put it on the ground, with your left foot still in the pedal and the bike still moving slowly, it tends to twist your body around to the left <S> so you're facing backward. <S> If you bring your right foot over the back, it's in a natural position for you to start running alongside the bike in motion. <S> Also, it's easier to bring your leg over the back because you don't have to bend your knee so much. <A> It really depends on what type of riding you are doing and whether or not you have clipless pedals. <S> If you are a cyclocross racer, the left foot remains in the pedal, and the right foot swings over the back wheel, then threads between the left foot and the frame to step on the ground. <S> This fast, but tricky dismount is explained in this video from a former cyclocross national champion. <S> Some triathletes use a similar technique. <S> The safest thing to do, however, is to stop and dismount.
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If you do not have clipless pedals or your left foot is resting on top of your shoes, you can swing the right foot over the back wheel, position just behind the left foot, and then hop of the bike to land on your right foot.
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Can a front wheel have a different number of bearings on each side? I took my old, filthy bike apart to clean it up. I have never done this before! When I took the front wheel bearings out, I ended up retrieving 9 from one side and 10 from the other. It seems like logically there are a few explanations: There were actually 10 each side but I dropped one without noticing. It's designed to have a different number on each side. It's not designed to have a different number on each side, but the bike shop put it together wrong and I've somehow got away with it over the years. I honestly think I was being super careful and that it's not (1), but I'm prepared to accept it could be that if the others are impossible! And I guess in practical terms, what I really need to know is ... should I put it back together with 9 on one side, or should I buy some new bearings so I have 10 each side? I think I read somewhere that 10 each side is standard for a front wheel. <Q> It's not unusual for an asymmetric shaft (on some rear wheels or solid-crank bottom brackets, eg) to have different numbers of balls in one side vs the other. <S> And if there's intentionally a difference then there would be a small but visible difference in the size of the races as well. <S> Likely the hub was serviced in the past and one ball was lost (or you lost one somehow). <S> But it's not really terribly serious. <S> It's often recommended (as a general rule for ball bearings) to have "a full race <S> minus one" vs having the race completely full, and your typical 10-ball bearing can survive reasonably missing 2-3 balls (though that's not ideal). <S> However, since you have things apart it would be worthwhile to replace the balls. <S> (Don't mix old and new balls.) <S> See if ten fit comfortably. <S> If they fit, and there's still room for a fingernail between them, then use ten, otherwise go with nine. <A> 10 each side! <S> Invariably a bicycle has 10 3/16" balls on each side on the front and 9 1/4" balls on each side in the rear wheel. <S> You may want to read the Park Tool guide that confirms this and has plenty of tips for doing the job properly: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment <S> You will need cone spanners, some clean grease and a new pack of 3/16" balls. <S> The balls are cheap so replace all of them. <S> Important to get right is the bearing preload. <S> If you are lucky then the bearing will feel slightly rough when you turn it, i.e. not as smooth as you set it up before the extra tightening. <S> This will give a reasonable amount of preload on the bearing. <S> Preload is important for carrying your weight properly and the longevity of the bearing. <S> What you don't want is for the bearing to have play or be over-tight, the above technique should help you to get it right. <S> Hope that helps! <A> I would try to buy new bearing balls and fit 10 brand new balls properly greased in each side. <S> I can't think of any reason for a front wheel to have more balls in one side. <S> I assume that your wheel uses rim brake, which being properly adjusted should put a fairly symmetrical load to the wheel assembly. <S> Most modern hubs designed for Disc Brakes also use the same kind of bearing for each side. <S> Even rear hubs, that clearly have a greater side to side load difference are commonly designed with identical bearings for both sides. <S> Also, a personal tip: Some non-pro hubs use ball bearings consisting of a number of balls held together by some sort of cage. <S> This cage keeps the balls separated. <S> I use to buy a couple of extra bearings, take them apart and fit as many balls as possible, with also, as much grease as possible. <S> I do this based on the argument that the load will be spread among more balls, thus diminishing the load for each individual ball, with the positive effect of extending the time between hub maintenances. <S> My results are that I have never had a case of cracked bearing balls in any hub that had this procedure performed.
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So, if there is no obvious difference in the left/right sides of the hub, the most reasonable answer is to use the same amount of bearing balls for each side. Tighten the hub until it is running smoothly, then put a bit of extra on the locknuts to get everything really tight. But it's a little unusual for a standard front hub.
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Keeping your feet dry (or do you not even care?) I've finally gotten to the nirvana-like level of not caring if it's raining / snowing etc when I ride. While this is great from a biking perspective I still end up with wet feet / socks. While this is unlikely to kill me or make me especially unhappy (after all, I still got out riding...) I was wondering of anyone else had a clever solution for wet feet. When I'm riding with booties in the winter it's not a problem, but this isn't going to work in the other three seasons (too hot). I have seem folks wrap their feet in plastic baggies (too hot, and you need to wrap your head in aluminum foil to get the full look) and had others suggest sock material that won't lose insulating qualities when wet (unfortunately, can't fit either my road or mountain shoes over any of my wool socks). Are there thinner wool socks that could work for mid fall / early spring? How about silk / lycra liners? <Q> I keep extra socks at work, and typically turn my commuting socks inside out and place them and my shoes on top of my computer tower under my desk to dry them out. <S> When the weather goes chilly, I adopt these techniques: polypro sock liners <S> wool socks <S> plastic bag keeps cold water out, blocks cold breeze ankle hiker or other leather shoe low gaiters, with the tops tucked under my rain pant cuffs <S> I keep two pairs of commuting shoes in rotation, to give one a whole day to dry out, to try and avoid fungus buildup. <S> To keep feet warm, I keep my shoes laced loosely, and I avoid tight fitting socks. <S> I want to keep as much circulation in my feet as possible. <S> Your feet will feel colder if you pile on a lot of socks and constrict your circulation. <S> My old (street shoes) are very old, hardly worth keeping now. <S> I'm days away from getting some Keen sandals and sealskinz socks. <S> I've read warm recommendations for fleece socks and neoprene socks (neoprene apparently wicks and blocks wind). <A> If it's cold, it's really not much fun having wet feet. <S> In the summer, I use either some GoreTex trainers or SealSkinz waterproof socks for when it's raining. <S> I really like the Sealskinz. <S> One time the heavens opened just before leaving work and only had sandals, but then found the SealSkinz in my bag - that was almost perfect, warm, dry feet and no shoes to dry out once home. <S> In the winter (lots of snow in Helsinki), I wear normal winter boots to just above the ankle, which are also waterproof. <S> Merino socks are very good, I have some SmartWool ones. <S> You can get SealSkinz with merino as well. <A> Don't care too much. <S> Aside from very long rainy rides, wet feet aren't too bad unless you also have to deal with low temperatures. <S> In that case you have to have booties to cover the feet to keep them from getting wet in the first place. <S> I have some pairs of " smartwool " cycling socks. <S> They're thin enough and durable for cycling. <S> When it rains, your feet still get soaking wet but they dry out fairly quick, and are slightly more comfortable than regular cycling socks (which really aren't too bad either). <S> Cotton socks would mostly likely be a very bad idea. <S> The shoes, I think, are just as important. <S> Sidi's tend to be very porous <S> so they drain well. <S> I don't know if other shoes also drain well. <S> If not, they're probably not good for wet weather and cycling in general. <A> Here in Portland where we have months of cold and rain <S> I typically wear wool socks and leather boots for my commute. <S> In the past when I've worn cycling shoes I would wear a low-cut wool sock and neoprene booties. <S> In our climate this serves me for the whole rainy season. <A> Usually I don't care about my feet getting wet, as long as I'm not cold. <S> If I'm commuting to work, I just pack extra socks so my feet aren't wet all day. <S> If I'm out for other purposes (exercise, recreation, etc.) <S> then I'll just change when I get home. <S> Same reason I avoid fenders. <S> I am very rarely in a situation where I care if I get wet. <A> When it's really cold or really wet, I wear water resistant shoes. <S> Some sort of cover over your shoes would be good instead. <S> (make sure the water resistant pants go down to the shoe so you don't fill the shoe with water via your ankles) <S> When it's slightly wet but not <S> that cold, I wear wool socks. <S> Actually, I wear wool socks all through summer, too. <S> I'm more likely to wear the almost invisible ("micro" height) ones during summer and ones that cover the ankle a little ("mini", "half crew", "3/4 crew") during cooler weather. <S> In heavy rain where there's significant water flow through your shoe nothing is going to help because the water is being replaced with cold rain water too fast. <S> Note that the type of wool does matter. <S> Merino is more expensive but less itchy. <S> I believe the longer fibers in merino may make it easier to make thinner socks, too. <S> Make sure it's not acrylic, which can look and feel a lot like wool but doesn't have the wicking or antibacterial properties. <S> As far as where to find wool cycling socks? <S> Check at your local cycling stores first. <S> Also check at outdoor stores since summer hikers often like thin wool socks that don't go up the ankle too. <S> Shoe store or running store might also have something. <S> The brand I usually wear is Smart Wool, like these socks . <S> I've seen wool socks intended for cycling from: Sock Guy , DeFeet , Capo , Castelli , Endura , and others however. <S> They don't necessarily have to be specifically for cycling, any thin merino wool sock that fits well should work so <S> a "running" or "casual" sock could be just fine.
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I find that wool socks keep the feet reasonably comfortable if there's a bit of moisture.
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Cruiser bottom bracket is clicking and grinding My Trek Pure Deluxe 3-speed cruiser has been making a clicking noise when riding for some time. The problem is faint, and is more felt than heard. However, it's been getting worse; it now makes a grinding noise if I'm mashing a bit when going uphill. The noise seems to happen when the right crank arm is facing forward. Which gear I'm in makes little difference. I've eliminated saddle noise (by pedaling out of the saddle) and have replaced the chain. Is there anything else at all that this could be, or should I just replace the BB at this point? <Q> Yeah, the first thought would be a loose crank arm, and if it isn't tended to immediately (if it's not too late already) <S> the crank arm and possibly the spindle will be destroyed. <S> The other possibility, if this is a cartridge BB, is that the cartridge is slightly loose. <S> But in that case the noise is usually only present under high load. <S> [I'll add that tightening the crank arms is one of the half-dozen or so items that should be taken care of during the free once-over (after a few months use) that you should get from a bike shop if you buy a bike there.] <A> Make sure your crank arms and chain ring are also tight. <S> I've had loose crank arms on a square taper <S> BB make a faint clicking sound/feeling when it was loose. <S> Not sure what kind of BB that bike has though. <S> If neither of those seems loose, and you have the tools, I would pull off the crank arms and spin the BB axle to see if the bearings feel ok. <S> To add some backstory; one of by bikes had a Shimano LX crank and square taper BB (2001-ish), and it had a large hex wrench bolt to hold it on ( <S> like 6 or 8 mm <S> i think). <S> I had to tighten the crank bolts so hard to make the arms tight, that my hex wrench's sides are now all twisted into a slight spiral, instead of being straight. <A> Square Taper chainsets do this, even if they get checked for tightness before sale. <S> A 'free service' with the bike sometimes involves nothing more than tightening these fellas up. <S> The problem of square taper crank arms coming loose was why Shimano came along with Octalink splined bottom brackets. <S> I think you will be able to get away with just tightening up the cranks. <S> (Or else you can smash up your hands or hurt your hand on the socket set lever.) <S> You can also tighten up these bolts on the ground, back brake on, with a foot on the socket set lever at the 3 o'clock setting. <S> Do both sides and don't bother taking them off or anything like that first. <S> Opinions vary on whether you should have any grease in there, personally I have found grease to not do any harm, but, in general no grease is the norm. <S> The reason your bike has the square taper design is that Shimano patented Octalink so it did not become an industry standard. <S> With the left-hand crank you can get a spare 170mm arm, although not necessarily to match the other arm. <A> It's almost certainly a deformed square taper. <S> If you winch on tight or carefully grind the surface you may be able to rescue it. <S> Otherwise get a new crank arm and bb, worth buying reasonable quality and maintaining your bike at closer intervals
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If the problem persists then you might have already 'rounded' one or other of the crank arms. It is possible that you could have done something to mess up a bearing. A 15mm socket set is what you need, and gloves!
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Do Master Link pliers help with SS / fixie chain assembly? A followup to my own question , seeking specific help. I'd like to know if anyone is using a set of "master link pliers" (something like Park's MLP-1 MLP-1.2 , or try this search ) to help them with derailer-free chain work? I have an IGH without a derailer or tensioner, so my chain line resembles a fixie / SS setup. The chain has an ok amount of tension, but without a derailer, generating enough slack in the chain to both remove and reattach the power link isn't happening unless I remove the rear wheel. Will a tool like the Park MLP-1 allow me to get the chain off and back on again for regular cleaning without forcing me to remove the rear wheel? Thanks oodles! <Q> If you're looking for a way to get the chain off without loosening the wheel then this won't help you. <S> This tool require there to be enough slack in the chain to pull two links together. <S> I'd say the links move about 5mm in order to break the link. <S> I would recommend having this much slack in the chain normally. <S> What you want is a 3 piece master link that uses a c-clip to hold it together. <S> These don't require any slack in the chain to disassemble. <S> They seem to be more common for 1/8" chains though. <A> First off... <S> no <S> I have not used the tool nor do I have a single speed/igh set up. <S> I did look around some fixie boards and a lot of riders are using various brands of master links. <S> Nobody admitted using something like the MLP-1, but that could just be attitude. <S> So as one who does use a master link... I could see where it would be useful if you chain is a bit tight or you want to eliminate that one extra link. <S> Only issue I would see if you have the chain a bit too tight which might lead to faster wearing (i.e. stretching) <S> and so you'd have to replace it sooner. <S> In short if you need the extra leverage then it's looks like a good purchase. <A> Close as I can tell that tool helps you take apart the master link (if a SRAM style, at least), but does not really aid in assembly. <S> But I don't offhand know where to get one. <S> The SRAM style master link can be disassembled with a pair of pliers if you hold your mouth (and the pliers) right. <S> The trick is to catch one plate with one jaw and the other plate with the other jaw, holding the pliers at an angle. <S> Works best with needle-nose pliers, but can work with regular ones. <A> The MLP-1 will definitely help you with master link disassembly. <S> It's been much more useful for me than simple needlenose pliers. <S> If your chain has enough slack for the SRAM-style masterlink to disengage (only a few mm) <S> you should be able to remove it easily using this tool or a similar one. <S> An alternate technique you might try is only partially wrapping the chain around the top half of the chainring during reinstallation. <S> Once the chain is joined, pedaling forward slowly should be able to pull it the rest of the way onto the chainring. <S> Use caution to avoid binding. <S> It's pretty much a given that trying to reinstall a chain while it is under tension is going to present more difficulty than not, so the best option might be to look at methods for optimizing rear wheel removal and cleaning the drivetrain while installed on the bicycle.
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I've seen images of a different tool, a sort of vice, that gives you some slack for both disassembly and assembly (by grabbing the links adjacent to the master link or taken-apart standard link and holding them in alignment) that I would think would be a more useful tool. I'm doubtful that it will really help you with assembly, because if tension is high it'll be difficult for you to keep the loose ends of the chain lined up in the teeth of the jaws.
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Any source for Shimano shoelaces? I have a pair of Shimano SPD-compatible shoes that have served me well and have a couple more years of good service in them. But the shoelaces are about to disintegrate. I've looked online and at several stores for replacements, but can't find anything to match. The existing laces are round and relatively soft, whereas most round laces one finds are either thin dress laces or heavy, stiff boot laces. The boot laces don't tie as easily and don't stay tied nearly as well. Besides, I like the look of the original Shimano laces. Has anyone found a source for the "real thing"? <Q> I don't think that the exact laces are available under the Shimano brand, but the internet may prove me wrong. <S> The closest thing I have found online is oval athletic laces like these: <S> If you google "oval athletic laces" you should find a large number of online sellers as well. <A> I've replaced my original round Shimano laces with flat laces, I found at my local shoe repair shop. <S> I explained them <S> , I need them for sports and they gave me special weather resistant laces. <S> They last longer as the original laces. <S> The round laces I found, loosened the knot too fast. <S> And also didn't last long enough. <S> The flat laces keep the knot good, and don't make a big knot so they are comfortable. <A> I use flat laces for my shimanos - they never come undone and they were about £3 at Clark's shoe shop:-)
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When I replaced mine I found similar laces at a sporting goods store, but I've seen similar sport laces at some of the big box stores as well.
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Adjust reach on Ultegra ST-6510 levers? I'd like to adjust the reach (distance from the drop bars to the brake levers) on my Ultegra 6510 levers. The Shimano instructions don't mention the ability to adjust this at all, which seems odd to me, since even basically junk mountain bike levers are adjustable in this way. Is there a way to adjust this on these levers? Is it "normal" for road levers to not be reach adjustable, or is this just a Shimano thing? From searching around a bit, it looks like you can use "Specialized Slim Shims." Is that the way people typically adjust the reach? Anyone have any better "home-brew" way to make them adjustable? <Q> The Specialized shims are probably what you will end up using, however, before ordering them up, see if there is anything you can do by changing the location of the levers on your handlebar. <S> Drop handlebars can be adjusted in a multitude of ways. <S> You can adjust the overall angle and slide the levers forwards or back to compensate for a change of bar angle, to keep the hood position where you are used to it being. <S> How exactly this works with your bike depends on how 'anatomical' or 'track style' your bars are. <S> This will involve a lot of adjustment of bars, levers, cables and tape, but it is something you may want to investigate. <S> Alternatively go with the Specialized shims or simply rely on the fact that you can always reach your brakes if the threat is scary enough and slacken them off a bit so that, once you have got the lever, you are not working it with your fingertips to effect useful braking. <A> I've never seen brake levers that WERE adjustable ( <S> *), other than by sliding the unit up/down a drop bar, and that's probably not what you want. <S> The shims sound like your best bet, though I would think it's also possible to shim up at the bar/lever mount point, at the expense of affecting the brake hood fit. <S> After shimming <S> (however you do it) be sure to check that the brakes don't drag and the levers don't "bottom out". <S> (*) <S> However, you might look and see if any of the sites specializing in women's bikes has something. <S> I checked the Terry site and didn't see anything, but I think there are a few other sites specializing in women's stuff. <A> I had a similar problem on my bike and used shims. <S> But I'm pretty sure they weren't "Specialized" branded ones. <S> I was told they were supposed to come with the brifters but most bike shops don't put them on. <S> Check with the bike shop <S> you got the bike at to see if they have some lying around and perhaps you can get them for free. <S> I agree that it's kind of odd that there's no reach adjustment, and only 1 size of brifters. <S> My hands aren't that small. <S> I would wonder how a woman with small hands would be able to reliably reach the brake levers at all, give how little room there is for adjustment. <S> Biking in cold weather with gloves adds even more complication to the problem.
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Sometimes you can push the levers mounting position forwards/down, to interact differently with the curve of the bar to give a shorter reach.
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Where to buy bar end shifters I would really like to pickup a pair of bar end shifters but none of my local bike shops are able to get any for me. My local bike dump laughed in my face when I asked them where I should/could find them. Where online could I get some bar end shifters for a reasonable price? (Bonus points for cheap shipping to/in Canada). <Q> The first place I look for 'unusual' parts is Loose Screws . <S> They have Ultegra and Dura Ace bar end shifters available . <S> My second source is Rivendell Bicycle Works - They have a couple of different options. <S> Not sure what you consider a reasonable price, but $100 US seems to be the ballpark for new shifters. <A> The local bike shop sometimes need a bit of help when you get a 'newbie' member of staff. <S> Shimano still make bar end shifters, if you provide the LBS with the part number then they can get them very quickly for you from the people that supply them with all the other Shimano stuff. <S> Dura-Ace SL-BS77 - 8/9 speed <S> Dura-Ace SL-BS77 - 10 speed Ultegra SL-BS64 - 8 speed <S> SRAM <S> TT900 - 10 speed Campagnolo (Various) <S> - 10/11 speed, designed for triathlon aero bars Other TT specific shifters that are not necessarily indexed <A> ProBikeKit has Shimano and Campy barcons and free shipping. <S> The barcons they have are not cheap. <S> So it goes. <S> Rivendell (op cit) also sells adaptors that let you mount downtube shifters as barcons. <S> This might let you frankenbike something together more cheaply.
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Finally - you can always try eBay for used parts, but that is hit and miss for both quality and selection when dealing with more obscure parts like these.
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Where Can I Find an Inexpensive Bike Stand Clamp Are there any recommendations for where I can buy an inexpensive bike stand clamp? I do not know what they are exactly called but the actual part that the bicycle is held onto in a work stand. <Q> If you are looking for just the clamp, and want something produced commercially you are going to have a hard time finding something inexpensive (at least by my budget). <S> A Google search for Park Repair Clamp turns up a number of options but they are generally $100 and up. <S> You can pick up a decent stand for that much. <S> The best deal I could find was a brand I'd never heard of: <S> Sette Workbench Stand (or this search ) <S> Your other option would be to build your own stand: DIY Bench Mount Bike Repair Stand <S> Work Bench Repair Stand with Angle Adjustment <S> Hopefully you get the idea... <A> B&Q here has one that looks reasonable and suitable for about £60. <S> Basically seems like a standard vice with wooden face plates that have curved grooves for pipes. <A> If the clamp in Gary's answer is too pricey, it's time to start looking at other options than an actual clamp. <S> Even though it's nowhere nearly as flexible as a proper repair stand, a wall mount bike rack works quite wall as a repair stand. <S> You screw one of these into the wall at shoulder height (or whatever height you like) and put the bike in it, drivetrain-side out. <S> You now have a decent repair stand - the pedals will rotate freely if there's nothing on the wall to prevent it. <S> (Check the depth of the stand before buying, though.) <S> These go for about $25 at most hardware stores. <S> Also, a car rack will do a decent job as a repair stand. <S> These generally cost almost as much as that stand, so do this if you already have a car rack or if you find one really cheap. <S> The pedals often do not rotate freely on these, however, unless the bike is all the way out from the car. <S> You want the sort of rack where the bikes hang from the rack, not the kind where the bikes stand on top of the rack. <S> Look for a 3-bike rack or more, those tend to protrude out from the car more. <S> Working on your bike when it's on your car can scratch your car or get it dirty, so this isn't an option on that bright yellow sports car. <S> Floor stands also work fairly wall, but have many of the same limitations as car racks; they're almost always not deep enough for the pedals to rotate freely. <A> Find a decent pair of medium vice grips, and weld a pipe approximately 1-3/8 diameter by 3" length, (you'll have to cut into 2 equal halves by cutting down the 3" length), weld 1 of the the halves onto the upper and the other1to the the lower jaws of the vice grips perpendicular to the pliers. <S> You attach to whatever piece of stand-off arm by welding, clamping, whatever. <S> I built my bike stand from parts thrown away by local businesses. <S> The lower stand is made from a collapsible P.A. monitor stand, that is adjustibe by width of the3 outrigger "feet", and adjusts to 5' high from26". <S> The center section is made from a steel adjustable telescoping floor vacuum pipe. <S> The top section is from a drum riser and several pieces of hardware/ clamps made for the drums, cymbals. <S> I am currently working on some seatpost clamps, but am currently using handlebar end "antlers" wrapped with foam grips. <S> The stand holds 2 mountain bikes and it's not even a bit strained. <A> Can you weld? <S> Some of these homemade efforts work really well, and will last many decades longer than plasticky ones. <S> Full detail <S> http://www.cycletrailers.co.nz/html/bike_workstands.html <S> Or here's someone else's idea http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-bike-repair-stand/ <S> Finally here's what I made, usiog some old scaffolding cross braces. <S> Theres an old concrete umbrella stand at the bottom of the pole, and all my tools can sit in the rear of the car for easier access. <S> Only problem is the bike wobbles about if you're leaning on a spanner, but it provides easy access without bending down.
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If you really are looking for a cheap option, plumbers supply shops will have cheap clamps used for holding pipes for bending.
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Why should I not coast while training (even after intervals)? A comment in this answer about building up stamina for a commute says not to coast, even after intervals. Why not? How is coasting different from light pedaling with minimal load (which I'm assuming is the alternative for recovery)? <Q> The reason (and I'm no medical expert) is that it acts as a gradual cool-down period after the hard exercise. <S> During any exercise it is good to cool-down by still moving and exerting less effort. <S> Keeping the muscles moving helps remove lactic acid from the muscles (which contributes to cramping) and keeps the blood flowing. <S> Also sudden changes between hard pedaling and stopping can make your blood pressure change more quickly. <S> It is better to make gradual transitions. <S> In intervals, you are just doing it over and over. <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooling_down <A> From a bit of searching through training sites after reading that comment last night it seems that it is for the same reason that at the end of a 10k run you don't want to stop; if you do your muscles don't get a chance to remove toxins such as lactic acid that have built up. <S> The guidance for runners is to walk around and stretch gently - I'm guessing that the guidance on not coasting is for exactly the same reason - keep the muscles moving so as to aid in lactic acid dispersion and the removal of toxins built up during the exercise phase. <A> Yes, as others indicated, it is for the same reason that runners don't just stop and sit down between intervals. <S> As much as they are about power, intervals are also about developing good form. <S> If you punctuate them by totally slacking and using the bike as an easy chair that's somewhat counterproductive. <A> Question is why coast? <S> Personally I made an aim not to coast too much when riding( checked with a cadence histogram chart, usually is around 2~3% of time ). <S> This is possible even after doing all out 30second intervals, I am still able to push out enough power to move me forward at a decent speed. <S> The benefit of not coasting is obvious, your body will adapt to not getting a relief which in turn will make you a stronger rider. <S> Of course there are times when you are completely cooked, this is usually during long rides, you can coast for a couple of seconds to rest the legs a bit <S> but this is a different scenario then what you are asking here.
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Basically, for all the same reasons that you should cool down for a few minutes after any strenuous exercise. I would add that it is also a matter of form.
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Can a Reynolds 753 aero fork steerer tube be unbent? I was hit by a car and now the steerer of my Reynolds 753 aero fork is bent. Is it possible to bend them back? Would that be safe? I can't afford a new pair! <Q> If by "steerer" you mean the top tube that turns in the bearings, it would be very bad for that to be bent, since it would seriously muck up the bearings, and ever getting it straight enough to NOT muck up the bearings would be unlikely. <S> Apart from the bearings, with something like a conventional steel fork the twin concerns are fractures in the steel and fractures in the welds and/or castings that hold everything together. <S> Generally if the bend is ONLY in the length of the metal tubing of one or both fork tines, the likelihood of a fracture is pretty small. <S> If an attempt is made to straighten the fork, it's important that it be done carefully, in a way that will not put further stress on welds and castings. <A> I believe 753 frames had to be built completely true first time as the tubing walls were so thin that a crumpled tube was catastrophic - so impossible to cold set (bend straight). <S> That said the steerer would be the thickest tube so less likely to crumple, but no, a steerer fail got me concussion and facial scarring <S> and I advise new forks. <S> Carbon ones are lighter and cheap and may be less likely to fail by now. <S> Please check your frame tubing about 10cm down the downtube from the headset for bulges - frame may be knocked back. <S> Hope it worked out <A> I will tell you how I have 'fixed' bikes with crash-damaged forks in the past: turn the bars round 180 degrees and swing the bike square on into a concrete wall. <S> Incredibly this 'technique' works remarkably well, and is quite fun to do with someone else's 'pride and joy', but, <S> as of yet I don't think I have had the pleasure of using this 'technique' on anything above a Reynolds 501 fork. <S> It works very well on 'hi-ten' but I have no idea about 753. <S> But it is all steel, right? <S> Anyway, I share with you this 'technique' because, if you are going to try and 'bend it' then it works out a lot better than more 'scientific' approaches involving vices, scaffolding poles and such. <S> The problem with is the tubes deform too easily so you cannot clamp them. <S> The only slight problem with the 'concrete wall' approach is that you can lack the will power to do it and any feeble-minded effort will result in pancaking the wheel. <S> If splitting logs with an axe is one of your preoccupations then go for it. <S> What have you to lose? <S> (Well, the frame, the front wheel and your wrists...) <S> But, as for the steel, it will bend back without too much fatigue damage, the hard part is actually doing it accurately. <S> Hence the 'concrete wall' approach - tried and tested. <S> If you are a wimp when it comes to the 'concrete wall' challenge, also consider looking into getting a horrid cheap fork in chrome steel of some vague ch-mo flavour. <S> You can get them for £25 or less and, if you were to ride your bike blind-folded you would be none the wiser that you had swapped out the front fork. <S> Cutting down a fork to fit and getting the lower bearing race on is again not for the faint-hearted, unless you have the proper tools that is. <S> With an affordable fork in place you can look into getting some carbon fibre or 753 effort that will better compliment your bike. <S> Hope that helps and hope you are okay after you crash! <A> I was hit by a car and <S> now the steerer of my Reynolds 753 aero fork is bent. <S> If you mean the steerer tube, then the headtube itself is also bent. <S> You probably need to bin the entire frame & fork (although you can rescue other components) and claim on the driver's insurance. <S> If you mean the fork blades, or the crown where they meet the steerer - you might be able to keep the rest of the frame. <S> Check the top and down tubes for creases near the head tube though. <S> Is it possible to bend them back? <S> Would that be safe? <S> It might be possible. <S> It might be safe. <S> The cost of the dental work required if it turns out not to have been safe after all is likely much more than the value of the fork. <S> I can't afford a new pair! <S> I'm sure the driver's insurance can. <S> Get an assessment from a bike shop, and a quote for any repairs possible, or the cost of a like-for-like replacement. <S> Get the driver to pay for that. <A> The real answer to this question is in all practicality, no. <S> Steel steerers are extremely strong, and actually bending it back to straight enough that bearing alignment is correct is just not going to happen in practice. <S> If the steerer is brazed into the crown, a framebuilder may be able to remove the bent one and put in a new one.
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But it's so hard to be sure that there are no beginning stress cracks in a weld or casting that using the fork (with or without straightening) is risky. My guess is that few if any would be happy about the idea of doing this to an aero 753 fork (kind of the most corner case permutation of this question you could ever ask for, actually), but that becomes a question of the judgement of whoever you're working with. I would recommend phoning round your local bike shops and seeing what they can do for you.
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How do I know if my cone/cap/bearings need to be adjusted? I have a custom road bike with (mostly) Shimano parts. I love to ride but I'm not so strong on the technical side. I have quick-release wheels; I regularly (3-4 times a year) put the bike in a bag and travel by train to a cycling destination. When I did so, upon re-assembling my bike, I noticed there was a lot of "play" in the rear wheel left-to-right. It rolls smoothly, but there is an intermittent....feeling.... as the wheel rotates when I am riding it. The feeling is a feeling of some friction, but not enough to actually retard the forward motion of the bike or anything, just enough to allow my feet to feel it in the pedals. It appears to happen once a rotation, as if I am going fast enough, I can't feel it anymore, but when I am going slow, there's certainly a pace to it. I've heard anecdotally from a friend I may need to adjust my cone & bearings, as they may have become too loose. Does anyone have any advice on how to do this, or things I should watch out for? I'm trying as much as is possible not to ride until I sort this, but since I commute by bike, it's urgent. <Q> Pick the bike up so the problem wheel is off the ground. <S> Grasp the tire and push it back and forth (left <S> /right relative to the frame). <S> If you can get any perceptible motion then the bearings are loose and need adjustment. <S> While the wheel is off the ground, spin it and watch the space between the rim and the brake block (assuming you don't have disk brakes). <S> The space should be nearly constant, varying no more than about 1/2 mm as the wheel rotates. <S> (Check this on both sides, since a dinged rim is also a possibility.) <S> If it varies more than 1/2 mm <S> or so the wheel is out of true and needs to be trued. <A> If your bearing cones are loose, you should be able to feel it if you have the wheel off the bike, and wiggle the axle (not the quick release 'skewer' that slides through, but the hollow tube that the quick release skewer slides through). <S> With the wheel on the bike, you would also be able to feel it by wiggling the rim side to side (perpendicular to the bike frame). <S> If you try wiggling the rim side to side while it is on the bike, then you can watch the distance between the brake pad and the rim to see how much that distance changes to see how loose it is. <S> If you can feel the axle move in the hub, then yes, you probably need to adjust the cones. <S> There should be a lot of "how-to" guides out there if you Google it. <S> If you are feeling a 'drag' once per wheel rotation, then you should make sure the rim isn't rubbing on the brake pads at some point in the rotation. <S> Sometimes the axle doesn't seat itself all the way into the dropouts on the frame when you put the wheels on, and it will end up slightly crooked on the bike. <A> I would like to add some things to the above answers. <S> If the hub is of the quick-release (QR) type (some are not), then the bearings adjustment will become tighter when the QR skewer is tightened. <S> Therefore, some sources recommend that there should be a small play in the bearings before the wheel is put in place (see for instance http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html ). <S> This play will then be eliminated when the QR skewer is tightened. <S> I have observed that on many hubs (with QR) it is possible to tighten the QR with different tightness and still keep the wheel in place. <S> For instance, the tightness can be almost loose , hard , super hard or super duper hard . <S> Although the adustment should not be almost loose , it is possible to choose between a range of tightnesses from hard and upwards. <S> Now to the point: <S> Assuming that there is a slight play in the bearings before the wheel is tightened in the fork with the QR, one can achieve different degrees of play by tightening the QR differently hard! <S> Could it have been that you tightened the QR harder when assembling it the last time (when you felt the play) than before that? <S> In that case, this could be the cause of your too tight bearing adjustment. <S> Note <S> : I do not know if my practice of tightening the QR differently much is recommended by experts. <S> I do think however, that tightening the QR super duper hard will not make the wheel less prone to come off than if tightening the QR only super hard . <A> Your description sounds more like a buckle in the rim. <S> Loose cones can be felt by holding the rim and trying to waggle the wheel side to side. <S> If it does, you have loose cones. <S> The once a rotation comment sounds more like a ding though. <S> If it does it's most likely out of true (not running true). <S> The simplest way to get good results in that case is to ask a bike shop to true it.
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Once you've checked your cones aren't loose, try spinning the wheel and see if the rim appears to wobble in relation to the brakes. Both tasks -- adjusting bearings and truing the wheel -- are things that a competent basement mechanic can accomplish, but not particularly suited for a newbie, so in either case it needs to go to a bike shop.
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For a slightly warped wheel, is it worth getting it repaired? My son has a relatively cheap kids mountain bike, no suspension or anything flash, and after a minor crash into a friend the back wheel is slightly out of true. It only causes issues under braking when the warped area of the wheel leads to stuttering braking, and locking up entirely when the brakes are pulled hard. My gut feel is that I should just throw it and get a new one, as I don't know how repairable these things are. Can bike shops repair that sort of thing? <Q> Trueing a wheel is something you can do on your own, but until you get good at it it'll take you time to do it <S> right - "carefully tighten the spokes on the opposite side... <S> " is kind of an oversimplification. <S> Typically a trueing stand is used; the wheel is placed in the stand and prongs or arms on the stand determine exactly where the wheel is out of true. <S> The problem is that sometimes you need to loosen some spokes to get enough play to pull back against the deformation enough to straighten it out. <S> Someone who does it all day makes it look easy - you bring your wheel in to a good bike shop and usually it takes longer for you to describe the pothole you whacked into than to actually true the wheel. <S> If you've got a good relationship with them they may not even charge you for a 10 second job (karma would demand an offering of beer or pizza as appropriate). <S> If you don't have a trueing stand <S> but you're feeling adventurous <S> you could try doing it with the wheel in the frame - stand behind / in front of the wheel (so you're looking at the tread) and spin the wheel slowly - you should see where it comes out of true. <S> (I have a friend who has done it with a leatherman in the middle of a ride <S> but he also repaired and managed a bicycle store for many years). <S> Since it's an inexpensive wheel if you're confident enough in your abilities <S> I'd say go for it - worst case <S> is you end up replacing the rim, but you may learn a new skill in t he process. <A> You can attempt it yourself, or get it done at a bike shop. <S> I'm not sure what bike shops charge these days for truing, but it's probably less than half of what a new inexpensive wheel would cost (though you may be able to get a used wheel cheaper). <S> The important thing is to get the RIGHT spoke wrench for the spoke nipples, and get a good quality one. <S> And if the nipples are at all corroded, be prepared to "break free" a nipple with Vice Grips before you end up rounding off the nipple with the spoke wrench. <S> (If you round off a nipple they can be replaced, but it's a minor PITA.) <S> (If the nipples are badly corroded give the screw threads of each a shot of Liquid Wrench before you begin, being careful to not let the stuff dribble down into the tire.) <S> Truing a wheel is mainly a matter of THINKING about which way each spoke pulls. <S> And you may need to loosen some and tighten others (though you should probably tighten more than you loosen overall). <A> As other contributors have noted, this is DiY with a spoke wrench. <S> Spoke wrenches come in different sizes, take the wheel into a shop so you can get the right wrench. <S> Deflate the tyre somewhat before you begin as a hard tyre can puncture if making spoke adjustments. <S> As for the truing process, I have to recommend Ken Kifer's guide because he wrote lots of great stuff <S> and this article serves as an intro to his site: http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm <S> If you do want to get a new back wheel there is the small matter of the sprockets that will need changing over. <S> Get the shop to do this for you when you buy the wheel as you don't want to be buying special tools for something the bike shop guys do every day. <S> Also expect a 24" wheel to be special order, but not that expensive if you do get a basic steel hub/alloy rim model. <A> I had exactly the same problem a week ago. <S> My son had a minor crash and the front wheel was slightly buckled. <S> Brought the bike to bike shop to see if they could fix it <S> and they said no - and to get a new wheel - cost ~ <S> €40 thank you very much. <S> Mind you <S> , it's an old crappy bike <S> so not that surprised that they said no. <A> Of course they can! <S> It's easy enough and much cheaper to do it yourself with a spoke key. <A> My solution was to replace the wheel with an undamaged one salvaged from another cheap bike, because the wheel was too damaged to repair. <S> A tree fell on my cruiser bike and bent the coaster brake rear rim irrepairably. <S> I looked online and found a new one for about 60 dollars plus shipping. <S> So I looked around on the local swap and shop forums and saw a few bikes for around the same price. <S> But yesterday I found a cheap old cruiser bike at a thrift store that also had a lot of other usable parts as well as two fairly true rims with good tires.
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Use an actual spoke wrench - if you use pliers you can round the ends of the spoke over and if you use a wrench you'll put too much torque on it My solution - looked around for second hand bike which we got for less than the price of new wheel! If you have moderate mechanical abilities you can attempt it yourself.
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How do I clean chain grease off my clothes? I commute to work, and often wear my khakis on the ride in. As such, my clothes often get chain grease on them. What products or cleaning strategies do you know that work to remove chain grease from clothes? <Q> Most ordinary baby wipes will get grease out of clothing if you get to the stain quickly enough - or, at least, get enough of it out that the rest will later wash out. <S> You can also carry spray-n-wash pads or keep them in your desk at work. <S> However, baby wipes are also good for cleaning your hands - handy after changing a flat, or fiddling with a bike chain. <S> However, it's even better to avoid getting grease on your clothes to begin with, so <S> I suggest using a pants clip or rolling your right pants leg up. <S> A full chainguard is great for this, but it's not always practical on a commuter bike. <S> This won't prevent the problem completely, bit <S> it does help minimize it. <S> For these reasons, I found that when I was commuting, I tended to favor my black or dark-colored pants. <A> There is a lot of sense to <S> @Neil Fein's 'get used to it' attitude as, with some garments, you are just not going to get the oil out. ' <S> Prevention is better than cure' definitely applies, but we are past that, aren't we... <S> In the office environment you have tea making facilities, including a sink with some washing up liquid and maybe some disposable hand-towels. <S> Put the washing up liquid on the affected area neat, without water. <S> Make yourself a brew whilst it soaks into the fabric. <S> Now dab out what you can with a damp cloth and get it dry with the hand towels. <S> This will remove the stuff that has not ingrained in yet and stop it spreading, e.g. to cross-contaminate your other leg. <S> When it comes to the wash you can apply an 'oxy' stain remover spray to the affected area before popping it into the machine. <S> The active ingredient in 'oxy' is tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) <S> and this enables bleaches in normal washing powders to work at 40 degrees (so no boil wash needed). <S> Now add biological washing powder to the machine and put it on the 40 degrees wash cycle. <S> The 'biological' enzymes for removing grease in such powders only work effectively at 40 degrees, so, with TAED and the enzymes working away on your stain (that has already had the excess removed) <S> you can effectively get your clothes clean with minimal effort. <S> Swarfega hand cleaner is something you may also want to look into getting - this stuff is brilliant for cleaning hands and clothing alike. <S> Again you put the stuff on raw without water, then wash it off once done. <S> 'Prevention is better than cure', so make sure your chain is clean and lightly oiled. <S> A heavily oiled chain collects dirt and it is this dirt that does the damage. <S> You can also investigate getting a wax lubed chain as that copes with dirt better. <S> If you run hub gears or single speed you may also want to consider using one of those 'rustless' chains that has a special coating and does not need oil. <S> Hope that helps! <A> Ordinary degreaser you can get at Walmart or grocery stores will remove bike chain grease from clothes and car seats. <A> I've generally used Swarfega (the standard green variety). <S> As well as being great for getting hands clean it works on my jeans before they go into the wash. <S> You just rub it in before you put them into the wash. <A> Vanish grease remover from vanish.co.uk will do the job very well, just get to it as soon as you notice it. <A> I was an automotive mechanic for quite a few years, yes I did get quite greasy <S> when young and dumb, I used Naptha to get the grease out of my jeans, worked well, but it did make the washer a bit smelly <S> , I Kept some naptha in a spray bottle, I sprayed the grease spots right before washing and used extra soap. <S> This worked quite well for many years. <S> There were only a few "stains" it did not get out over the years, but I think this was other contaminants besides oil and grease, but it always removed the grease completely. <S> I never experienced any negative side effects for the washing machine besides the after smell. <A> <A> They're usually available at the LBS. <S> To remove any grease, you could keep a small spray bottle of Simple Green at work, mixed at the strength you want, and just slightly wet the grease stain and then dab on the Simple Green and work it in.
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I use a combination of chain degreaser (hey it works good on the chain right) and Fels Naptha soap. To prevent grease from getting on your pants leg to begin with on the commute, I'd suggest using those straps to hold your pants legs from flapping around.
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What are the risks of untrued wheels? I understand that wheels should be trued for efficiency. Are there any safety risks (or risk of damaging the bike) in using untrued wheels? Are the risks different between wheels untrued left-right and up-down? My question is motivated by the following fact: I have an up-down untrued wheel and not much time to take it to the shop, should I keep using the bike? <Q> It is important to understand that spokes work in tension rather than compression. <S> What that means is that the spokes at the bottom of the wheel are not 'doing anything'. <S> The load is shared by all of the spokes to varying degrees and, particularly with cross-laced spoking patterns, that load gets dynamically transferred to use the strength of the available spokes. <S> You can actually knock out a chord of a dozen spokes on the cheapest of steel rimmed wheels and the wheel will still be able to support your weight and get you home, albeit with gingerly riding style with no kerbs or potholes attempted... <S> Therefore, even quite seriously mangled wheels that are as true as a poppadom are surprisingly strong when riding on paved roads in a straight line. <S> As other contributors have noted the problem comes with the brakes and stability at speed. <S> You really do want to make sure your brakes are not hitting the tyre or falling off the bottom of the rim. <S> If you have the slightest doubt then you can ride the bike using the other brake as your primary, using the brake on the affected wheel for 'emergencies only'. <S> This should not be a problem if the weather is dry <S> and you know what you are doing. <S> Consider doing it yourself, with a spoke key on the wheel in situ. <S> Here is a handy page on how to do just that: http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm <S> As for getting a spoke key, go into the bike shop with the bike and ask. <S> There are a couple of common sizes and you will need to get the correct key for your bike. <A> Untrue wheels are weaker, may cause steering to be difficult at high speed, and if you're using rim brakes it will cause stuttering or lockups. <S> Having said that, it would need to be damn untrue for any of the above to be a serious problem. <A> It depends on the reason for them not being true. <S> A lack of equal tension in the spokes could mean weakness in one (or more) of them - and broken spokes are not a good thing to ignore. <S> You can survive one or maybe two for a short while, but eventually the rim could be in danger of collapsing. <S> If you have rim brakes then left-right could mean mismatched application of the brake blocks which could make for inconsistent pressure but also it could attempt to move the wheel from side to side, which might start to work it loose at the hub - and loose hub nuts are very dangerous. <S> In this situation up-down is also sub-optimal as the brake blocks could be rubbing on different parts of the rim (or even the tyre). <A> I was going down some serious hills on a road bike with warped rims. <S> At some certain speed (no speedometer) there was a considerable amount of wobble that started to happen. <S> An unbalanced mass rotating at high speed can cause a significant amount of wobble. <S> This is how the vibrate feature in your phone and game controllers work, by attaching an unbalanced weight to a small electric motor. <S> Let's just say this is something that I would not want to experience again. <S> Took it slow the rest of the ride. <A> Mostly, the out-of-true up/down wheel simply makes your ride less pleasant. <S> Out of true side-to-side will cause the brakes to drag, if severe enough, and make them grab a bit on light/moderate braking, even if they aren't dragging normally. <S> And either will make the bike harder to handle at high speeds (especially those 50mph downhills). <S> And, of course, if a wheel goes suddenly out of true it may indicate that a spoke is near failure. <S> But none of this (other than the handling problems, which you can evaluate yourself) represents a real hazard, and there is no great harm in continuing to ride on the wheel if it's not too unpleasant to do so. <S> It's not like a loose crank arm or some such where failure to fix it immediately can cause serious additional damage. <S> All that said, a decent quality wheel in good condition, once trued for the 2nd or 3rd time (ie, fully "broken in") <S> should stay true for years, if you don't subject it to any severe shocks. <S> So it's worth paying to have it done (or learning how to do it yourself) to help assure years of pleasant riding. <A> To add to the sage advice aleady given, an untrue wheel at high speed will wobble causing increased risk of pinch flats, especially near the valve. <S> I know because it had happened to me just recently.
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In theory, an out-of-true wheel probably affects spoke life, and a wheel, once out-of-true, will tend to get worse over time. Straightening out the wheel need not be something that you need to get the bike shop to do.
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How to make the most out of daily commute? I have heard that bicycling is a great form of cardio exercise. I bike to and from work everyday and the whole way everything is flat. I am not sure what the best way is to make the most out of the exercise. Should I pedal as hard as I can the whole time? Is this a good enough alternative to jogging? <Q> Interval Training . <S> It's a type of workout where you alternate bursts of energy with periods of recovery. <S> There are many variations of interval training. <S> If you want cycling specific intervals, you could try " The Time Crunched Cyclist " by Chris Charmichael. <S> The book is primarily about training for Centuries or racing, but if you follow the methods, you'll get into great condition. <S> One popular method of interval training is the "Tabata" method. <S> This uses 20 seconds of ultra-intense exercise (at an intensity of about 170% of VO2max or 90 - 95% of your max heart rate) followed by 10 seconds of rest, repeated continuously for 4 minutes (8 cycles). <S> Typically, this is done 3 or 4 days a week and not on consecutive days. <A> Not only will it make for a longer more fitness path but will also be more interesting to see new sites every time. <A> There is a period of about an hour after exercise where your body is more likely to replenish your muscles with carbs and protein rather than storing it on your body as fat. <S> It may be worth waiting until you get to work before you eat your breakfast. <S> To increase the intensity, maybe consider panniers with additional weights. <A> If your commute is only 4 miles each way then my advice is to extend it once or twice a week. <S> Can you take a detour along some quiet roads? <S> Any hills in the area? <S> Do you pass a park around which you could do some laps?
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Interval training is an excellent cardo workout and a great alternative to jogging. I would recommend take a different path to work everyday or every week if you can. Take it easy on the way into work in the morning to save your energy, then go have some fun after work.
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How do you wrap a bicycle frame with used inner tubes? What is the best way to wrap a frame with bicycle inner tubes? The bike is an aluminium framed MTB with suspension (rather than a roadie-courier bike that usually gets subjected to such treatment). Can you use puncture repair glue or does it have to be 'gaffer tape'? Any tips will be most appreciated on how to do this effectively. Edit: As for the why question: there are various reasons why people would want to do this - to protect the bike from railings being one, to make it less attractive to thieves is my concern, making it look 'individual' is another reason to do it. I was really hoping that someone here has had a go and might want to share what they learned from doing so. <Q> Also for extra damage prone bits (chainstays, BB tube, etc.), I sometimes use the tyres. <A> I agree with the use of zip ties. <S> They hold up well and makes the tube available for trailside repairs. <S> Such as an emergency patch for a blown out side wall,a bungee cord replacement or just as rope to tie something on that fell off. <A> I wrap my chain stays with an old tube. <S> I find it works best with an old road tube (not a wider MTB tube) <S> Cut the tube near the stem (on both sides of stem) to remove the stem <S> I wrap from rear to the front <S> Start a few inches forward of the rear axle area. <S> Wrap backwards going towards the rear axle, overlapping about half the width of the tight/flattened tube. <S> Once at the axle area, start moving forward, going over the few inches you just put down <S> Keep the tube tight and flat, overlap about half width as you wrap all the way to where you want to finish (close to front chainrings) <S> Cut the tube to length, I like to finish on the inside of the chain <S> stay <S> Keep it closed by wrapping some electrical tape. <S> I make sure to note get any tape on the frame, just the rubber tube. <S> I find this to be very similar to wrapping my road drop handlebars. <S> Never done any more than chain stays but have seen it on some downtubes.
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I tend to use zip ties - they're very strong but can be replaced/moved without damaging the tube.
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Eliminating chainslap on a 90's Stumpjumper I have a mountain bike - a Stumpjumper hardtail frame with a Shimano drivetrain - where I'm getting a good amount of chainslap. Before I start fiddling with stuff, I'd like to understand the problem better. This is a new-to-me bike that's only recently been built from a mix of old and new parts. (I've put up more pictures of the bike here , but these are the two that most clearly show the drivetrain.) I believe I have two options here: Increase the tension on the chain (somehow), or Pull links out of the chain until all is well. What are the advantages and disadvantages of both? Or are there other strategies I'm missing? Or is my time better served by simply wrapping the chainstay and living with the problem? (While this isn't strictly relevant, I'd be remiss if I didn't point out that the front derailer also has issues - I can't get enough cable tension to get the chain to shift into the big ring up front.) <Q> Let me introduce you to the B-Screw... <S> Look at how that derailleur is hanging. <S> The parallelogram is angled skywards rather than downwards. <S> This is because the B-Screw at the back of the derailleur is not screwed in enough. <S> This screw contacts the derailleur hanger's little 'spur' and you may want to twist the derailleur body clockwise to make it easier to do up the screw. <S> Tighten it all the way, then go into the big cog and back it out so that the top pulley is close but not touching the sprocket. <S> This will put the B-Screw in its correct position, putting a sensible amount of tension on the chain. <S> As for your front derailleur not making it onto the big cog, the problem may be with the bottom bracket. <S> These come in different lengths and if the cranks or b/b have been repaired/upgraded over the last decade, due concern for the chainline may not have been given. <S> Take out the one that is in there and put in a cartridge b/b of the same shell size with a shorter length. <S> The next size down may be all you need but, without seeing the gap between the cranks and the chain stays I can only guess. <S> Obviously you want the cranks to be an equal distance from the chain stays on each side with enough room in there for the triple chainset. <S> the derailleur (front) will probably need adjusting by then, this has the outer plate parallel with the chainring and 1mm above the outer chainring teeth. <S> To make the bike look really good and eliminate chain slap problems in style, consider going on eBay to get a genuine Shimano 'Shark's Fin': <A> With a racing bike I had <S> many years ago I just increased the tension of the derailleur spring. <S> This kept the chain length the same (so I didn't need to worry about any geometry changes making it harder to change gear) but increased the chain tension. <S> Not quite the same as your MTB, as I obviously wasn't jumping off things <S> so chain slap was not anywhere near as much of a problem, but you could look at that as a solution. <A> Chain slap is a result of slack in the relatively longer length of the chain required to accommodate the wide range of gears on the typical mountain bike cassette. <S> You essentially have two options: Treat the Symptom Wrap the chainstay with an old inner tube or use a neoprene chainstay guard. <S> Pro <S> This will prevent damage to the chainstay and will quiet the obnoxious noise. <S> Con <S> The chain is still slapping around. <S> Buy and install a chain guide. <S> Pro <S> These are supposed to help with both chain slap and dropped chains. <S> Con Expense; I've heard that there are frequentlycompatibility/installation issues. <S> (I've never bothered to use one) <S> Treat the Problem <S> First, your suggestions of increasing the tension (by replacing/tightening the derailleur) or removing a link or two from the chain may work, but you need to be careful that you don't shorten the chain too much. <S> Pro Cheep. <S> May improve shifting performance as well. <S> Con Easy to screw up and end up destroying the derailleur. <S> May not help much. <S> Many mountain bikers don't need the full wide-range of the typical mountain cassette. <S> If that is you, your best bet to reduce chain slap is to invest in a tighter range cassette and a short or medium cage derailleur. <S> This will take much of the slack out of the system. <S> Pro Best bet for reducing the chain slap. <S> May result in more efficient gearing and shifts. <S> Con Expensive if you don't have the parts laying around. <S> My General Recommendation Wrap the chainstay first, check the length of the chain and derailleur tension second <S> and then if you can go tight-range/short-cage. <S> My Specific Recommendation for your bike <S> You picture shows a long cage derailleur, and a 'mega-range' cassette. <S> In your specific case you could start with swapping out that cassette with the huge jump to the granny gear with a more rationally stepped one and just shortening the chain <A> Of course this is not a band-aid for driveline misadjustment.
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If you are feeling the chainslap only while careening down a steep bumpy downhill ( not doing alot of cranking) try using the middle or big chainring,this raises the derailleur and makes the chain less likely to slap as it is farther from the chainstay.
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What bike (carrying) racks are available for Pop-Up Campers? I've got a popup (tent) trailer and need to carry 6 bikes. I'd prefer not to put them on the roof of my van (the roof rack is rated to only 100 lbs and it's really high for lifting bikes onto). So far I've found this one: http://www.discountramps.com/pop-up-camper-bike-rack.htm But I also saw a Do It Yourself design for one that is a lot simpler. It would be great to find a simpler less expensive one like that to purchase. <Q> If your camper has a spare wheel here, then a wheel mount may also work. <S> Add another upstand of some description on the front of the camper for a duplicate setup, and put three bikes on the drawbar. <S> Noseweight should be about the same. <S> or Similar option is to run two towballs on the towing vehicle, like this <S> The other option is to put some bikes inside the camper before folding it, but there's often not a lot of space once its all folded down. <A> Swagman model 80550 is designed to fit on the roof of pop-up campers, it will hold four bicycles. <S> I would check with your trailer dealer to verify the roof will support the load. <S> Model 80500 is designed to bolt onto the rear bumper of the trailer, it holds two bikes. <S> I would think that putting the lightest bikes on the bumper rack would be the best in terms of balance for the trailer toungue weight, even a small amount of weight that far back may make a difference. <S> I have no personal experience with either design, but they seem like they might solve your problem <A> I'd say your two primary options are a hitch-mount unit or something similar to those pictures. <S> For the hitch mount I'd advise getting a real trailer hitch, vs trying to just bolt/weld a piece of square tubing to the trailer. <S> The torque that a hitch-mount bike rack places on the hitch is substantial. <S> For the DIY unit you can purchase the fork mounts somewhere <S> (I have some that I used on a trailer years back), though note that they won't work for some situations (note the extender they need for the disk brake bike on the left). <S> The rest of that DIY setup is so trivial I can't see bothering with something store-boughten.
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Add a second towball on the rear of the camper and fit a car bike rack for three bikes.
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How to store bicycles outside during winter Okay. I have a bike which I would like to store for around six moths. Winter temperatures can be as low as -30 C. The problem is that I do not have an indoor storage space, so it is going to reside on a balcony. We also have lots of snow. So, my plan is: 1. Inflate tires to max 2. Greasing 3. Wrap bike in plastic wrap. Any suggestions? <Q> Here's my solution. <S> Take off wheels, pedals, and handlebars, and place the bike under the bed. <S> Ok, that may not be the right solution, but it might point you in the right direction. <S> If you start taking parts off your bike, you can fit it in a pretty small place. <S> Take out the bottom bracket and leave that in the house. <S> Wheels can be easily stored inside. <S> The seat/seat post is dead easy to remove and can be stored just about anywhere. <S> Basically you should store as much inside as you can. <A> Wrapping with plastic for a season will result in trapping moisture, instead of keeping it out. <S> Moisture will penetrate unless you do something extreme like vacuum-sealing (which isn't practical in this case). <S> You're better off making sure <S> the bike is well-covered to keep off precipitation, but can also breathe to allow excess moisture to evaporate. <S> GuyZee's tips are good. <S> I'd inspect the bike once a month to ensure it doesn't need extra grease <S> and there's no rust or moisture build-up. <S> Also, if the balcony is accessible from the ground in any manner, you're giving bike thieves the advantage of time. <A> Here a few other considerations: <S> Make sure bike is 100% dry <S> Yes oil chain and all other gears, <S> bearings etc... <S> If bike is steel, oil or repaint any exposed metal <S> If bike is carbon, polish with Lemon fresh wood furniture polish <S> If saddle is leather polish'er up with some mink oil or other leather conditioner <S> Oil/Lube each spoke at the nipple Lift bike <S> so it is not resting on its tires <S> Assuming plastic is draping, but make sure tied down <S> so it does not blow away! <S> Hope that helps...if I think of any others I'll lyk! <A> No need to do anything extra special. <S> Just keep it dry, mostly, and it doesn't hurt to hang it <S> so the weight is off the tires. <S> -- don't wrap too tightly. <S> And be wary of placing the bike in a location (eg, near a bathroom exhaust fan) <S> where humidity from inside will come out and condense on it. <S> I wouldn't take the tires off -- <S> more apt to damage the bike than with them on. <S> But it doesn't hurt to take the seat inside (something mice might gnaw on). <A> I would purchase a commercial bike cover (available from plenty of places) and use that to keep the bike protected. <S> To better look after the tyres you may want to put the bike upside down, taking care that the shifters and seat don't get scuffed. <A> Provides better protection than just wrapping in a tarp or plastic. <S> You can purchase directly from www.yardstash.com . <A> You have three risk factors - snow, condensing moisture and tires going flat. <S> The solution is to hang the bike and cover it from above so that it is vented from beneath. <S> Hanging will require anything looking like two anchors and some reliable rope. <S> Covering can be made of any strong water-resistant material. <S> Well-vented bike covered from snow and hanging will be protected. <A> The other side of the coin is what to do in the spring. <S> I'd say: <S> get all the grease off and re-oil/grease everything pump tires up and check after a few days <S> maybe inspect tubes look for new rust around cable glands etc. <S> (when regreasing) pull seriously hard on brake levers before you need to clean rims <S> a good test ride before you rely on it. <S> I'm sure there's plenty to add to this list, you might even take a look at an old answer about restoring neglected bikes for tips, even though you're doing what you can to take care of it. <A> Almost dismounting the whole bike is way too much work... <S> other options would be much cheaper on your time or - if the bike not too expensive - just leave it outside, protect the cables entry points to prevent water and rotate the wheels 45deg every couple weeks. <A> $11 Alternative- Lube the chain before storage. <S> Completely wrap and tape shut with some desiccant inside. <S> Seal it completely. <S> Low moisture should mean little rusting. <S> Hang it to prevent damage to the tires. <S> Home depot sells 10ft square painter's plastic sheets and desiccant for about $3 and $7.50 respectively. <S> This desiccant requires something like a double boiler to store the desiccant in. <S> It absorbs moisture and drips into the lower container. <S> You can make this with old stackable tupperwear containers or buy it at the Home Depot for a few more dollars. <S> Free Alternative-Wrap it completely and forget about it until the spring. <S> It'll be just fine! <S> That's what I'd be doing!
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In the case of "sorta outside storage", if you cover it be sure that air can circulate under the cover to keep it dry No more than that is really needed, cleaning the bike up will remove that protective layer of dirt and grime that has built up. If bike steel, add nice layer of car wax and buff You might even want to consider taking parts off and storing everything but the frame inside your apartment. Consider using a Yardstash product instead of a bike cover. Before putting it in storage I would use an oily rag to go over the allen key bolts, e.g. in the stem.
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Are runners or pedestrians allowed to use the bike lane? This morning on my commute I encountered a runner in the bike lane I was riding in. This irked me because: The bike lane was on a busy street, with three lanes of motor vehicle traffic in each direction. (I was northbound on Embarcadero in San Francisco, for those of you familiar with the city.) To go around the runner I had to enter the car lanes, which makes me a little uneasy. There is a very wide sidewalk available to runners and other pedestrians along this street. There were no obstructions on the sidewalk, and it was not choked with other pedestrians. In other words, there was plenty of room for this runner to run on the sidewalk. (I'm guessing that he didn't want to run on the concrete sidewalk based on the misguided belief that the asphalt roadway would be easier on his joints.) So when I was about to pass the runner, I called out, "You're in my lane!" His reaction was... not positive. He started yelling and cursing at me. I don't know exactly what he said; probably something about runners being entitled to use of the bike lane, too. So my question is this: Do runners or other pedestrians have a legal right to use the bike lane (not that SFPD would ever enforce this even if it were a violation), especially when there is a sidewalk available? If this varies with the jurisdiction -- and it probably does -- then I suppose I'm most curious about what the law says where I do all of my riding, in the San Francisco bay area. (Irrelevant detail: I'm a runner myself -- I do a lot more running than cycling, in fact -- and I've run on this route many times. I really have no sympathy for those who want to run in the bike lane, just because I feel like the sidewalk is perfectly adequate for runners when it's available. I don't ride my bike on the sidewalk, after all.) <Q> Most US State and Local laws are based on the Uniform Vehicle Code and American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) guidelines. <S> They will normally have a phrase like: <S> Where sidewalks are provided, it shall be unlawful for any pedestrian to walk along and upon an adjacent roadway. <S> And a phrase like: <S> Where sidewalks are not provided, any pedestrian walking along and upon a highway shall, when practicable, walk only on the shoulder on the left side of the roadway. <S> The longer answer is that just like cyclist are allowed to take the lane when conditions warrant, pedestrians are allowed there when conditions warrant. <S> Ultimately we are all trying to share a limited amount of space. <S> Courtesy from all parties is always appreciated, and usually returned. <A> Found this thread as I was looking for the same answer for the legality of pedestrian running on the bike lane with a perfectly good sidewalk next to them. <S> Since I have not seen this being answered here, I'll post what I found from California's DMV. <S> Pedestrian in Bicycle Lane 21966 . <S> https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21966.htm <S> Surprisingly, this law has been in effect since 1977 and it seems not many people know (or care) about it. <A> This depends on the direction that they are running in. <S> Due to bicycles being silent, cycling having priority in the bike lanes and runners not having eyes in the back of their heads, they should be running the 'wrong way', towards rather than with bike traffic. <S> In that way they can hop out of the way of oncoming cycle traffic. <S> Clearly there is no way short of public service broadcasts on television to inform runners on the correct etiquette for running in bike lanes. <S> However, from a UK 'Highway Code' legal perspective, pedestrians are pedestrians whether they are crawling on all fours, walking with ipod plugged in or running 'narcissus' style. <A> As to the question of whether runners "have a right" to use the bike lane, that would depend on your local laws. <S> My guess would be "yes", unless there's some specific exclusion -- the bike lane would likely fall into the same classification as other bike paths -- where pedestrians are allowed in most jurisdictions. <S> As to whether they "should", keep in mind that many runners feel (perhaps with some justification) that running on concrete is harder on the legs than running on asphalt. <A> "Are runners allowed to use the bike lane?" <S> Hmmm...this depends entirely on local laws. <S> Legal in some locations. <S> Illegal in others. <S> If legal or otherwise, a simple verbal, "...on the left..." usually works. <S> No need to be rude. <A> In this situation, I usually just slow down, and ring the bell. <S> This will get most people out of the lane. <S> If they refuse to move, slow down to just a little faster than them, and coast by. <S> People with headphones on <S> (as many runners do) often won't hear the bell. <S> If you need to get off the bike or hop up on the curb to go around. <S> Some time this summer I actually had a bike coming the wrong way in the bike lane. <S> Luckily there was a lull in traffic <S> so I could avoid the person. <S> A runner in the bike lane is the least of your worries.
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No pedestrian shall proceed along a bicycle path or lane where there is an adjacent adequate pedestrian facility. There should be enough room for a bike and a runner in the bike lane, provided the runner isn't in the middle of the lane. So, the short answer is "no", but may be different wherever you are. No use risking your own safety for someone else's convenience.
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What are the most highly attended US & International charity bicycle rides? Yep, it's all right there in the title. Thx! <Q> I am not sure how you would find the individual rides with the highest participation, but there are a few organizations that reach thousands of cyclists across the US by holding rides in several communities. <S> In the US you tend to rarely see huge rides because the logistics and regulation hoops in many areas is to great to overcome. <S> Many rides are capped at 2000 or 3000 riders. <S> LIVESTRONG <S> (Cancer - Lance Armstrong Foundation): In addition to 3-4 of their own large rides, they have begun to sponsor other large ride like RAGBRAI. <S> Tour de Cure <S> (American Diabetes Association) <S> Their site reports that between the 80 or so rides they sponsor they get 40,000 participants. <S> There are a lot of others like Team in Training, American Lung Association Rides, etc, but those three have charity rides as one of the primary fundraising activities and are fairly well known throughout the US. <A> The London to Brighton Bike Ride organized by the British Heart Foundation is the largest UK one, probably the largest in Europe. <S> That has 27,000 participants. <A> The 2013 Ride For Roswell Park Cancer research hospital drew a reported 9000 riders. <S> The hospital is located in Buffalo New York. <S> Additionally it features a 200 rider peloton the evening before prior to opening ceremonies. <S> The ride winds through the city from the hospital to the University of Buffalo Amherst campus covering 13.5 miles.
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The list below is based on my perception that they hold the larger rides in the most areas: MS Bike Rides (National Multiple Sclerosis Society): Most are two day rides and many rides attract 3,000 riders or more.
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Is a tire patch kit really necessary for urban commute? I'm cycling for urban commute, on well-maintained roads and bike paths, Vittoria Randonneur "puncture resistant" tires, and at no point on my ride am I more than 1/2 mile (usually within 1/4, I bet) from a bike shop. I also presume that I'll never be without a wallet and cell phone and am in a city with good public transport. Given that, is there really a reason to bother carrying a patch kit or extra tube with me? <Q> Well, to answer this, there are a couple things to consider. <S> 1) <S> What are the hours or operation of the bike shops? <S> Do you plan to ride when the shops aren't open. <S> 2) <S> Seriously, you think they would always have 700x32 in stock, but I've had it happen enough times that it's annoying. <S> Not to mention the number of times I've settle for using presta when I'm really supposed to be using schraders. <S> 3) <S> How far do you really want to walk, and what is the penalty for being late? <S> Walking 800 m (1/2 mile) could take around 10 minutes. <S> In that time you could have already changed the tire. <S> Do you lose pay when you get to work late? <S> If this happens too much will you be seen as unreliable, and get your shifts cut? <S> 4) <S> How much does a patch kit or extra tube and a frame pump really slow you down? <S> A patch kit can easily be stored in those bags that go under your saddle, or in your jersey pocket. <S> A pump can be mounted on the frame, and you probably won't even realize it's there. <S> Personally, I don't think there's much reason not to carry a pump and spare tube. <S> Although it does seem useless at this point. <S> I ran over a broken beer bottle on the weekend and heard and felt the glass crush underneath my tires. <S> Thanks to gatorskins and tuffy tape, I didn't even have a flat. <S> I seriously question why I should bother. <S> But then 3 months ago I had a valve fail. <S> It's almost never the case that I get a flat from an actual puncture, but usually from pinch flats or other unexpected things. <S> I don't think I've ever had to use my allen keys on my commute, but I still carry them. <S> That being said, the day you have to walk a mile because you didn't want to carry something as small as a tube and pump is the day you're going to rethink why you don't carry one. <A> There is no unique right answer to this, but I can put it two ways: <S> The way you described (very low puncture risk, good external infrastructure), if it bothers me, I wouldn't carry anything but a good extra tube and a pump. <S> The second option allows you to change your mind if you want to stray away from your usual route, say, to ride longer, to go to a friend's house, or whatever. <S> Also, if you don't carry your kit everyday, chances are you will forget it at home when you go out for a non-commuting ride. <S> Now for the extreme opposite, I definitely would not recommend riding without a spare tube and a pump, EVER! <S> (But that's also a matter of choice.) <A> Think how fortunate you would feel to be able to help a fellow cyclist who happened to get his /her second flat of the morning by handing them a patch to help them on their way. <S> I believe what goes around comes around, maybe they would help you while walking the 1/2 mile to you bike shop to fix your bike. <S> Sometimes it is worth taking a just in case item for the circumstance that you just can't predict. <S> Most of us ride for the enjoyment and a few ounces won't really impact that. <A> I don't bother to carry a patch kit or any tools on short-distance commutes. <S> My rule is that if I could walk home in a pinch, I don't need that stuff. <S> FWIW, I've had more instances of running out of spares due to multiple flats on long-distance rides than I've had instances of walking home because of a single flat on in-town rides. <A> Seriously, that's all it comes down to. <S> Think about what you'll do if you get a flat anywhere along your commute and how much of an inconvenience it is. <S> Then compare that to the inconvenience you experience from carrying spares and fixing a flat on the road.
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You have to decide the best balance between The disadvantages of carrying a tube, pump and levers and The disadvantages of being stranded with a flat tyre. If it is not an absolute "bother", I would feel WAY more carefree if I did pack a patch-kit. Are you sure that all the bike shops will always have your tube size in stock.
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Wheel rigidity, is it noticeable and should I care about it? I have a friend who shopped for Aero wheels recently and I heard a lot of talk about how this wheel was more rigid than that wheel and so on. While I understand that a more rigid wheel should have less loss of energy, can it really be felt? I have entry level wheels and I don't feel any "softness". Is the rigidity of a wheel something that makes a difference only when you're a racer and want to shave off a few tenths of seconds? (I guess it can be something important for heavily loaded touring bikes, but I'm more interested in "racing" road bikes.) <Q> For the average rider the answer to 'should I care?' <S> is probably not. <S> Some of the primary benefits of a spoked-pneumatic wheel are traction and shock absorption. <S> There is a trade off between increased rigidity (as well as higher air pressure) and both of those benefits. <S> At the same time the harsher ride is going to increase fatigue, and the added vibration over anything but the smoothest surfaces will result in a decrease in traction. <S> Overall for the typical rider it's probably a wash. <S> It's largely the same story for the Aero benefits as well. <S> Unless you are primarily concerned about going fast in solo efforts the benefit would be minimal. <A> I know the question is about road bikes, but I submit some of my experience as MTB rider hoping to trow a little light on the subject. <S> As a mountain biker who has used a variety of components ranging from lower end cheap products to middle range stuff, I have noticed some differences in wheels, but especially in technical trails, rock gardens and the like. <S> In the case of mountain biking, wheel rigidity helps maneuverability, and the rider gets a more precise feeling and at least, the sensation of a faster bike reaction to rider's input. <S> A more rigid wheel assembly also gives the rider a lot better feedback about the bike's interaction with the terrain. <S> In mountain biking, wheel flex has the effect of fading the smallest vibrations produced in the tire-ground interface. <S> This effect is further amplified trough suspension components, so it gets more difficult to "feel" when a tire is about to skid or to determine if you can get faster over the current ground type. <S> Such kind of assembly can also introduce estrange vibrations thus causing incorrect feedback. <S> (I used a wheelset that constantly gave me the false sensation of rolling on a flat tire, even if the tire was properly or overinflated) <S> As for pedaling, I noticed a little side to side flex when climbing the steepest sections. <S> Another aspect of it, is that a flexing wheel, specially a cheap one, is more prone to material fatigue and failure. <S> Wheel flex is a result of the quality in the materials used and the labor qualifications while assembling, so even high end materials can be turned into a under performing wheel by inexpert or lousy labor. <S> A properly assembled wheel will perform correctly and also will need to be trued less often. <S> (For example, a guy once assembled a XC wheel set for me, using aluminum rims and 36 common steel spokes, which I abused with downhill use, including 3+ feet drops and very long loose rock sections, and they only had needed to be trued once after 3 years of use, and I really could tell whether they needed it because the bike uses V-brakes!) <S> As for road bikes, I have little experience, but I guess most of this still applies. <A> If you are a 'large' person you may notice significant differences between wheels. <S> My weight has been all over the place, but at my current 190 pounds (and especially at over 200 pounds) <S> I notice significant flex in "standard" light-weight road wheels. <S> The flex is especially apparent in the front wheel when cornering downhill at speed. <S> When I bought my first road bike I was at 210 pounds and when test-riding it on steep curves I could feel (and see) <S> the bottom of the Velomax Aero wheel flex to the inside of the turn by an inch or more. <S> After swapping for a similar Velomax wheel with a few more spokes I didn't have any noticeable flex when cornering. <S> Similarly, when climbing out of the saddle on less-stiff wheels I will often hear a 'pinging' noise that I think comes from the spokes re-seating themselves as the wheel flexes. <S> When testing wheel sets, just make sure that you take some hard corners and steep climbs. <S> If you don't find the amount of flex to be a problem for you and your weight then they are likely stiff enough. <S> If they feel like wet noodles under you or 'ping' when climbing, try something stiffer. <A> This question is akin to, "I have a Chevy and a buddy of mine went into a BMW dealership... <S> " If you are happy in the Chevy, do not test drive the BMW! <S> Once you do, you will likely notice all sorts of inefficiencies that you did not previously :-( <S> As Jahaziel and Gary. <S> Ray point out aerodynamics, bike handling and overall comfort are all factors and ultimately personal choice. <S> this is both the beauty and the curse of finding the perfect set up! <S> Based on the fact that you mentioned racing, I encourage you to hit the BMW dealership or in this case the LBS! <S> Most shops have test wheels...so give a few a whirl and make your own experienced/educated decision. <S> A good set of wheels is the single most significant upgrade to any steed! <S> I have ridden all types and many brands... <S> so do not hesitate to ask more specific questions about manufacturers or models!
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So, a high rigidity wheel may increase energy transfer, and decrease rolling resistance. If you are racing a lot of time trials then it's possible that it will make a difference. Mix into the equation average miles per ride, type of terrain, road surface, rider weight, typical wind and climate conditions and the variables are unfortunately endless...
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Child seat (or rack) at the seat post I have 2 bikes (mountain and road) sometimes I use them in races (mostly MTB) so I don't want to have any fixed accessory on them. I'm looking for a child seat (or rack where a seat can be mounted) that goes mounted to the seat-post so that I can easily replace the seat and post and mount the seat. I've seen some mechanisms that go into the frame. I thought they could also be mounted in the seat post but I'm afraid it's not a very good idea as the seat and baby weight would be too high and compromise stability and safety when riding. Does anybody have any idea? I'm afraid I'll have to get another bike for that purpose :-P. I have also though of bike trolleys but they may be too big, expensive and too sluggish. <Q> The closest thing I have seen is the WeeRide Kangaroo that places the child in front of you. <S> the support bar attaches to the seatpost and to the head tube, so <S> if you had a second seat post you could leave the bar attached to that end and just connect it at the head tube. <S> I don't know of anything that attaches just to the seat post, as the physics involved would cause pretty high torsional force at the point of attachment. <S> See this related question on toddler seat v. trailer for other child carrying options. <A> A rack specifically rated for heavy loads is the only safe way to attach a child seat. <S> Do you want your seatpost rack collapsing with a child in the seat? <S> If you don't want to put racks on your bikes permanently but use your existing bikes, you can acquire a child trailer (is that what you mean by a "bike trolley"?) and put a hitch on each bike. <S> That'll fit your requirements of not installing anything on the bikes (except the trailer hitch at the rear axle). <S> There are trailers available that are surprisingly light, but you're correct that they can be expensive. <S> But a new bike will be more expensive, unless it's a terribly cheap one - and do you want your child carried on a bike like that? <S> This site has also had several other child-seat questions that might help give you some background: What kind of bike rack can go with this bike? <S> question asking about attaching a child rack to a full-suspension bike <S> What's the best way for a beginner cyclist to carry children? <S> discusses the differences between using child seats and trailers <A> I would definitely try to get rid of one of your constraints: attaching things to the frame. <S> Unless you are riding carbon (in which case ANY child-carrying device would be practically "forbidden"), it is not to difficult to "build" or adapt a rear rack to the lower seatstays. <S> I have ridden with my kid until he had 50 pounds, and getting him firmly supported from below (via the rack legs attached directly to the frame) was very important. <S> Also, I had a handlebar mounted to the seatpost, and a generous foam padding (I made this seat at home). <S> Riding with a kid "hanging" from the seatpost is something I would strongly advise NOT to do, both for mechanical safety and also for father's balance and control. <S> You can see us riding here: http://youtu.be/lhm3tGFauUs
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Seat post racks have limited carrying capacities, and none of them are safe for carrying children.
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How should I deal with bike messengers + others (salmon) riding the wrong way in a bike lane? Frustrated cyclist "jegrgic" poses this question at the New York Cycling Club (NYCC) website . They say: When I see this, I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense. But typically, I just do my best to avoid them (usually by going into traffic) and swear under my breath while shaking my head. Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? Has anybody been able to educate them? Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded? <Q> I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense. <S> If I felt like that, I'd have to tell every second cyclist I see at night that they ought to have lights. <S> Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? <S> Has anybody been able to educate them? <S> Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded? <S> Ring your bell. :-) <A> If they stop, which they normally do, I typically and quickly try to point out: <S> Wrong way riding is illegal. <S> It's substantially more dangerous. <S> Our state is a contributory negligence state, so if you are in an accident you will likely collect much less or nothing at all. <S> And I finish with: <S> Maybe it's none of my business, but everyone is better off when we all follow the expected traffic rules. <S> Generally I get a response that ranges between acceptance and indifference. <S> The anecdotal evidence that it works is that they usually cross the street and on my typical route I seem to see fewer 'salmon'. <S> Truth is, they may be thinking I'm a crackpot and crossing back over as soon as I am out of sight. <S> Only once has someone yelled or argued with me. <S> That said, I don't stop messengers. <S> They generally know the rules and are choosing to flaunt them. <A> I'm sure there are cultural differences between NYC and where I live, but I've found that any attempts at yelling " Don't go the wrong way! " <S> , " You're gonna kill yourself! <S> Ride with traffic! " or something like that at a passing cyclist get no acknowledgment, get dismissed ("yeah, yeah, whatever"), or hostility. <S> There's very few wrong-way cyclists that seem open to being educated. <S> I'm really hoping somebody can share some techniques that have seemed to reach the salmon. <S> In the US there's been federal grant money for "bicycle safety" that police departments can apply for to pay for overtime for police officers to concentrate on ticketing cyclists for dangerous illegal behaviors. <S> It might be possible to convince your local police department to apply for some of that funding. <S> As far as how to keep yourself safe, hugging the curb and slowing down works great. <S> Since they can see the oncoming traffic they're better situated for a dodge out of the bike lane. <S> Slowing down so that you can stop quickly is helpful, too. <S> If there's cars next to you, this doesn't work as well, since wrong-way cyclists are generally willing to ride in the door zone without thinking twice about it. <A> It's not your problem. <S> Leave them be. <S> Do your own thing, swim your own path. <S> It's easy to say that <S> but life's too short. <S> If they're not going to listen to what you say <S> and it would just annoy you even more than it apparently already does <S> I'm not a cop <S> , they'd not pay me any attention anyway. <S> If I'm feeling particularly belligerent then I might deliberately get in their way (I do tend to do this with pavement riders when I'm a pedestrian), but generally that's just risking their anger and they wouldn't learn anyway. <A> It'd be best if they simply obeyed the traffic laws, but the few times I've brought this up with wrong-way riders, I've encountered everything from disbelief to hostility. <S> To that end, I've found that you can usually "direct" these riders within the bike lane or shoulder. <S> When I see them in the distance riding towards me, I'll point at them, then left, while I simultaneously move to the right. <S> (If time permits, I'll point at myself first , to make it clear <S> I'm saying "How about if we both ride on the right side of this lane.) <S> It almost always works, and many wrong-way cyclists actually seem to appreciate this; I've gotten a few friendly nods from doing this. <S> This technique has worked on the streets of New York City, various locations in New Jersey, and also while on tour in Rhode Island. <S> However, note that some areas may have laws that make signaling like this problematic, possibly opening you up to liability if there's an accident caused by your signals. <S> ( Here's an example .)
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Unless someone has actively endangered me with their stupidity, then I'm inclined to just ignore it. I have in the past stopped and held up my hand in a 'stop' gesture and had a short conversation with people riding the wrong way. I simply do my best to avoid them and not collide with them. I think the one thing I know of working is police ticketing them, especially since here one of their options for dealing with the ticket is taking a bicycle safety class from a LAB certified instructor via the local cycling advocacy group. , then just leave them to it and go on about your day.
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Do cyclocross/interrupter/touring brake levers reduce brake performance? I have bullhorn bars, with a Tektro cyclocross lever and a TT style bar end lever as well, operating rim brakes. The calipers are Tektro dual pivot. The pads are cartridge style pads (I don't have the exact make and model with me right now). This is the closest photo to my setup I could find. I have bullhorn bars rather than drop bars, but it shows the way the cyclo levers interact with the bar end levers. I've been having trouble with braking performance, particularly in the wet. The levers don't bottom out (as I'm careful to keep them adjusted), but even squeezing very hard the bike doesn't pull up very quickly. I should also mention that I've tried removing each lever and haven't noticed any difference (although it can be hard to compare different days and different conditions). I've had 3 different bike shops tell me that the problem is having both brake levers. They claim that it introduces too much flex into the system and braking power is reduced. I was very skeptical until all 3 people told me the same story independently. This doesn't make sense to me. The cable is not interrupted and using either lever doesn't seem to compromise the brake line in any way. When you use the bar end lever, the interrupter is closed and I can't see any flex in the lever. When using the interrupter lever I don't see how the bar end lever can be causing any flex either. Can anyone explain how having both levers would compromise performance? <Q> The only way that interrupter levers could make much of a difference is if the installation requires extra housing (which would compress under braking, increasing the lever travel for a given braking pressure). <S> If you're not bottoming out the levers, though, that's not the source of your problem (and from the picture I don't see why the interrupters would require additional housing anyway). <S> I think Daniel R Hicks is correct here-- <S> your lever/caliper setup likely isn't giving you enough mechanical advantage. <S> You're squeezing the levers as hard as you can, but you're just not getting enough pad/rim force for decent stopping power. <S> You notice this mostly in wet weather because there's less pad/rim friction when they're wet. <S> Finger positioning on the levers is one thing that can make a difference--keep them as far away from the pivots as you can. <S> On my drop-bar commuter bike, for example, I need to ride in the drops during wet weather because I just don't get enough mechanical advantage with my hands on the hoods. <S> You might also see better braking performance if you switch to softer brake pads, or rain-specific pads like Kool-Stop Salmon or similar, though I've read that the Salmons tend to chew up rims pretty quickly when it's dry. <A> The problem is not to do with the interrupter levers (they are probably the least weak part), the problem is systematic. <S> Shimano and Campagnolo are known for their bike components, however, they can be seen as companies specializing in cold forged aluminium alloy components and able to churn out the best quality stuff, whether that be fishing reels, wheels for Porsche cars or bike bits. <S> These companies have invested in really big presses for the cold forging process, invested in the finest alloys and invested in the really expensive dies that only make sense to invest in if the sales volume is there. <S> Only engineers inside the machine tool/cold-forging business or in the cold-forging business can really illuminate to you the science going on at the high end and what the likes of 'Tektro' miss out on. <S> However, 'Tektro' parts are nearer being 'stamped out of cheese' than cold-forged properly. <S> It is unlikely that their parts get put in the press multiple times, this forging process required to give the 'Shimano grade' finish, aligned aluminium alloy grains and consequent strength. <S> The Tektro brakes are well known for being 'spongy' and, as of yet, no Tour de France teams upgraded their Campagnolo/SRAM/Shimano brakes to 'Tektro' for that special 'spongy' feel. <S> They are OEM parts without much call for them in the aftermarket. <S> The processes used to make all of their parts are cheaper than those used by Shimano/Campagnolo. <S> Hence the problem is systematic. <S> Given where you are, consider getting a better front brake, e.g. Shimano 105 (or even Sora). <S> Also consider investing in Shimano cables. <S> minus <S> the interrupter levers - keep them and swap out the rest as time and effort allows. <A> Imagine hanging a 1kg weight from a hook by a steel cable vs a rubber band - the rubber would stretch a lot more, but both would pull on the hook with the same 1kg force. <S> Having used several different models of Tektro brakes in the past, I would say the most likely problem is the brake pads (assuming you're using stock ones). <S> Tektro pads that I've seen varied from bad to terrible, and replacing them with everyone's favorite brand (the one with the word "stop" in the name) <S> always improved braking performance tremendously.
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Flex in the system robs you of useful cable travel and feel, but does not reduce power (provided the lever is not bottoming out). The back brake is less crucial as you skid on that anyway, but you might want to be on the lookout for a complete brake setup replacement
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How long does it take to get used to a hard saddle? I recently "upgraded" to a Romin Comp Gel saddle from a soft racing saddle because my old one, while extremely comfortable on long road rides, wasn't working for the TT position I'm now practicing for an upcoming Ironman. I've been professionally fit with the seat, so I think things are lined up well. I've ridden nearly 200 miles over the last week with it and the problem is: it still freaking hurts. It's not chafing; it's pressure right in that, uh, under-area that's supposed to sit in the gap of the saddle. Can I expect it to get awesome any time soon, or should I try another saddle at this point? Edit: Regarding seat position, I have my current seat all the way forward , which is where I've been steadily moving it over the last two weeks since my professional fitting. Moving it forward did help, but now I'm stuck again (and I have one of those bent seatposts that is pointing forward as well). <Q> Take it back and get a different one. <S> A decent bike shop will let you do this. <S> I went through 3 saddles the last time. <S> The goal is that the "saddle fits you", and not, "you fit the saddle". <S> It really doesn't take weeks. <S> to determine whether a saddle is right or not! <S> A long ride will do. <S> An anecdotal note... <S> My current road bike saddle would qualify as a "hard leather saddle". <S> At the time I bought the bike, I didn't like the original saddle, then tried a Specialized, then a Fizik, and then settled on a Selle Italia. <S> I'm not knocking either Specialized or Fizik or any other brand; it's just that the Selle Italia saddle worked for my anatomy, and I often spend an entire day+ sitting on that saddle. <S> Saddles are like shoes, they have to fit the wearer. <S> A 30 mile ride told me which saddle to get. <A> 'freaking hurts' painful. <S> When it comes to saddles, even after a professional fit you may need to make adjustments at home. <S> Using a grease pencil or other means of marking the position you can start by doing two things likely to help: Decrease the nose angle a few degrees. <S> This could be especially helpful since in a time-trial position most riders are inclined closer to horizontal <S> an this can significantly increase the pressure on the perineum. <S> Move the saddle a few millimeters forward. <S> This compensates for the tendency to slide slightly forward when in the drops or on your aero-bars, and helps keep the saddle pressure on your sit bones. <S> Finally, you may want to use a small plumb bob to make sure that the nose is centered left to right over the top tube. <S> Again, in a TT position small deviations can make a big difference. <A> This question was answered by a suggestion to slide the saddle forwards on the seat post. <S> You could give that a try. <S> I doubt you'll get used to an existing, uncomfortable saddle position. <S> I don't think that part of your anatomy will 'toughen up'. <A> I dont't know that saddle model <S> but, as always, the answer is really subjective. <S> It could also be forever . <S> My suggestion is to try a saddle before buying and buy always the better shorts you can afford. <A> Having your saddle straight ahead is not always best either. <S> Every body is different - I'd urge you to set up your bike to fit your actual body, not some aesthetic ideal of "supposed to be_ _ . "
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It can take a few weeks to get used to a new saddle, or other components, but if adjusted properly they should be 'uncomfortable', not
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Should I ring my bell before going around corners? I'm in a town in Bavaria, Germany and the local custom with the more dangerous corners is to honk a horn or ring a bell. Will this actually make me safer? Currently I am cycling in a half-urban environment. Having moved recently, I find the new city's biking infrastructure to be fairly dangerous, with many intersections designed to be dangerous ("traffic slowdown") and with new, not-yet-well-known yielding rules where most people still speed through without slowing down to look first. Knowing that the safest conduct would be very slow cycling (but impractical given the density of dangerous places), I've taken to auditory messaging, i.e. ringing my bell before dangerous places and corners, and I know quite some people who have upgraded their bell to a horn to gain some safety. On the other hand, I've spoken with a number of residents who find this excessive bell-ringing and horn-honking disturbing, especially the people living at these dangerous corners. Does an auditory signal appreciably improve my safety? <Q> You are from Germany <S> so German laws are relevant. <S> In this case §16 I StVO . <S> (1) Schall- <S> und Leuchtzeichen darf <S> nur geben <S> 1. <S> wer außerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften überholt (§ 5 Abs. 5) oder <S> 2. <S> wer sich oder andere gefährdet sieht. <S> Attempt at translating to English: <S> (1) Sound and light signals may only be used: 1. <S> when passing (overtaking) outside urban areas (§ 5 para 5) or 1. <S> when seeing yourself or others at risk <S> So if you see a danger you may use it. <S> For practical terms it depends, as always, on the situation. <S> I like ringing my bell, but I'm cautious with it. <S> Too often I have seen that people are confused and stop or go to the wrong side or something. <S> There are a few corners though which are quite narrow where I can't see what's coming where I make it dependent on my speed whether I ring or not. <S> If I'm slow enough to stop in the case of something coming my way I'm often silent. <S> When I'm faster I warn people who might hide behind a corner. <S> Often it is better to ring once too much and annoy some people than not ringing and having an accident. <S> Greetings from Munich, btw. :) <A> In the UK, a car's use of the horn is meant to be limited: Highway Code rule 112 (n.b. capitalised phrases are generally indicative of the legal position): <S> Use only while your vehicle is moving <S> and you need to warn other road users of your presence. <S> Never sound your horn aggressively. <S> You MUST NOT use your horn : <S> * while stationary on the road <S> * <S> when driving in a built-up area between the hours of 11.30 pm and 7.00 am except when another road user poses a danger. <S> This is generally good advice and there are plenty of examples (some encoded in signage) where a quick toot on the car's horn (e.g. before a narrow bridge) is positively encouraged - this would go for bikes too. <S> But is it excessive? <S> I guess it's a case by case basis, but <S> if you think that someone is coming around the blind bend and would react to your bell-ringing, then yes. <S> If your bell-ringing is combined with your slowing down and taking an appropriately defensive position as well, then yes. <S> If the bell-ringing is just an abnegation of your responsibility and a cover for your being able to just barrel around the corner without paying due care and attention, then almost certainly not. <A> That's probably excessive (and relatively useless). <S> (For the US-ians among us:) <S> Unlike the US, in parts of Europe (such as Norway, where I've visited several times) and other parts of the world there is no established "pecking order" for one street having right-of-way over another, other than " <S> the car on the right has the right-of-way". <S> Even cars in driveways have right-of-way when pulling out. <S> This works pretty well where streets are wide (and the drivers are well-adapted to the concept), but breaks down in many narrow urban streets (though the US concept of through roads would be equally problematical there). <S> I think the main problem is that auditory warnings (especially bells) are relatively ineffective. <S> All the cars have their windows up, running AC, and with the radio on. <S> Pedestrians have iPods in their ears. <S> And those that don't are apparently deaf already. <A> I use the bell if I see a pedestrian (or, a cyclist coming up from a cross-road to our intersection) who I think might move into my right-of-way, and who has not (yet) noticeably seen me. <S> I use it a lot, on the order of 20 times an hour. <S> I don't use it to force my way through a pedestrian crossing when pedestrians have right of way. <S> I beware that a pedestrian may be deaf or inattentive. <S> I don't expect or hope that a driver will hear it. <S> I usually use it, as I overtake a bicycle, especially in traffic when I want them to not swerve. <S> I use it as soon as I see an unlit bike on a dark path. <S> I use it when I cycle through a flock of geese around and on the bike path in daylight <S> : it might ad to their awareness (I haven't tested not ringing). <S> Sometimes I ring it to warn pedestrians of the cyclists in front of me: part of my commute is a mixed pedestrian/bike path on which the bikes may have right way; once (frantic ringing) <S> it was a pedestrian about to step off the sidewalk into a bike path without looking. <S> Once I scolded a rider for not using his bell. <S> After checking that his bike was equipped with a bell, I said, "You should put that bell where you can reach it" <S> (he had it on the down tube). <S> Many bikes have no bell (I rarely hear another rider use their bell; sometimes in reply to mine), although they are legally required in this province. <S> I often use it when I'm riding in the door lane, especially as I pass tall parked vehicles that I can't see past, <S> in case a pedestrian or the vehicle's driver is walking round the vehicle expecting the door lane to be empty of traffic (on that street the alternative to the door lane would be to ride in the centre lane which has inset streetcar tracks and so is dangerous).
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I also use it when I don't see anyone, as I enter a blind corner, when I'm prepared to brake if someone is in the wrong place: then my bell might help the other person (if there is one) to prepare to brake too. I understand that there are some places in Europe where everyone driving a car honks their horn at every corner.
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How can I stop my mudguards from rattling? Is there a simple way to stop the mudguards on my bike rattling? They're securely connected, but when I go over bumps in the road they tend to wobble about and rattle against my front wheel. <Q> I think it's a problem that must be solved on a one-off basis, since there so many different fender/bike combinations. <S> First make sure the connections are really tight. <S> Often they work loose over time. <S> Then try to observe what's rattling. <S> Some heavy tape applied to points that tend to knock against the bike frame may help. <S> Different fenders that are stiffer and have more stays is another possibility. <S> In some cases you may simply want to cut off, eg, part of the front fender extending forward from the fork, as that area tends to be less well secured and vibrates quite a bit. <S> (Mine cracked at the fork and the front part fell off some years back, and I haven't missed it.) <A> I use rubber patches from used tubes. <S> It not always look nice, but besides dampening the rattling itself, they also dampen the sound propagation along the fender (depending of course on the amount of rubber). <S> EVA could also be a good alternative. <S> Other think I sometimes have to make is to preload the metal plates which run from side to side along the fixtures <S> (I have SKS chromoplastic fenders). <S> As a matter of fact, my front wheel is very silent EXCEPT when I take one hand off the handlebar (for example, to use the cycling computer or take the water bottle). <S> Riding one-hand is even noisier than riding no-hands, because the front wheel oscilates laterally. <S> I think that's it, <S> hope it helps! <A> They go between the mudguard and the screw-hole. <S> The idea is to keep the mudguard from being able to pivot (and bang into stuff and make noise). <S> FWIW, I run 35mm honjo fenders on 25mm conti tire. <A> Another source of rattling can be the positioning of the fixings. <A> "They're securely connected, but when I go over bumps in the road they tend to wobble about and rattle against my front wheel." <S> My bike developed the same problem after I put fatter tyres on the bike. <S> The back mudguard is not noisy but the front one was . <S> After a certain amount of 'rattling' the mudguard broke off, so let that be a cautionary tale for you! <S> Doing up the bolts and dampening them is not going to solve your problem. <S> Only a narrower front tyre or a fatter mudguard will. <A> Hardware store, Plumbing section, very strong rubber washers. <S> Might even be stronger than leather and very available. <S> My rear fender has a clamp in the middle, that is where the old inner tube comes in. <S> I have just found out I can use high density foam wether strip for the center fender bracket and it works great. <S> 1/8 inch thick by 1/2 inch wide. <S> It even has adhesive on one side to help it stay in place while installing. <S> Just finished doing this to a Norco city glide <S> and I can't make the fenders rattle even by hitting them. <A> For attaching the mudguards to the fork crown and top of the seat stay, use zip ties (cable ties). <S> ie drill or melt four holes in the mudguard, then put the zip ties through these and around the fork/stays. <S> In my experience, this makes a big difference to stopping the mudguards rattling. <S> The riveted brackets on SKS mudguards soon become loose and start wobbling, zip ties are much more solid. <S> Plus it can give a bit more tyre clearance, which is helpful if you want to use bigger tyres on a frame without much space.
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If it's a road type then the stays can sometimes be moved along the mudguard to make the contact points wider and reduce rattling. A close-fitting front mudguard can only take so much before it breaks, particularly if SKS chromo-plastic (rather than vintage steel). I've had success with leather washers . If you bend them against the surface they rattle, than the "spring action" will keep the surfaces pressing against each other.
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What statutes govern the directing of traffic by citizens in Massachusetts? Are there laws or statutes governing the directing of traffic by citizens or "members of the public"? A scenario I often encounter is one in which someone — typically another rider or pedestrian in a group that has stopped or slowed at road crossing — will signal an approaching driver to proceed across the flow of bicycle traffic. I realize that people who do this are trying to be helpful or courteous to the drivers, but they do so on behalf of others with whom they have not consulted and who they may not be aware of. In particular, I'm wondering what the laws are in Massachusetts , though any information about New York City, London, Seattle and Vienna or other areas would be welcome. Is someone who does this liable in any way for any accidents that might ensue? Are they legally permitted to direct traffic in this way? Do they assume any responsibility for others who may become involved in the consequences of their "traffic direction" (given that those others generally have no idea that such directions have been given)? <Q> Yesterday afternoon during Friday rush hour, I came upon a 2 car head on collision at a blind curve in my area. <S> I am a hospital employee and have training in emergency response so I stopped to help when I saw a young man clutching his eye. <S> I put on my poncho and did my best to make clear signals to drivers. <S> All the participants were physically fine, but there was a heavy rain and if I hadn't acted, I suspect there would have been a 2 hour line of traffic at best or a series of further collisions at worst. <S> There were no problems, and I left when the police arrived. <S> As I was leaving, a police officer thanked me but cautioned me that it was a legal liability . <S> My thought on the matter is that if an accident had occurred, it would be because drivers ignored my signaling. <S> So who knows who would be in trouble? <A> My guess is that someone is potentially liable for providing incorrect "direction", <S> though with two (well, three) caveats: 1 - The person taking the "direction" cannot generally absolve themselves from all responsibility. <S> 2 - <S> There <S> may be "Good Samaritan" laws in effect that protect the "director" in some cases (most notably if doing something like directing traffic around an accident). <S> And -- 3 - All of this goes out the window when you understand that, basically, anyone can sue anyone for anything, and you never can predict what a judge and jury are going to decide. <A> Legally permitted to direct traffic (with force of law), no, not anywhere I'm aware of. <S> That's <S> a state/police reserved power in all cases I can think of. <S> Could someone do that in an advisory capacity, sure. <S> Are they opening themselves up to liability. <S> Yep. <S> Very much so. <S> Especially since there's no requirement that anyone follow their directions (thus they may appear to be offering "safe crossing" when they have no legal basis to be able to guarantee it). <S> Don't do it, and use great caution when around people that are doing it. <A> When I stop for a pedestrian at a crossing, I may hold my hand across the lane to stop cyclists behind me. <S> Signalling to others is probably legal IMO. <S> Every road I've driven on has clear right-of-ways, traffic lights, stops signs. <S> US law includes the notion of contributory negligence which may apply.
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If I'm driving I'd like to take responsibility for my own conduct, and not drive into anyone no matter who or how anyone might signal at me.
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Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes? Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes, either in a kiosk or through an arrangement with local businesses? None of the schemes that I've used ( London , Vienna , Boston ) or am aware of provide them, and in most that I'm aware of it is rare to see helmets in use at all, despite the fact that most recommend them and in several cities riding without them is illegal. Have any of the cities that have cycle hire schemes come up with a convenient way to provide helmets along with the bikes in a way that's consistent with the "use and forget" philosophy of the schemes? <Q> In Melbourne, we have a bike share scheme. <S> You can buy helmets for $5 from various outlets and then return them for a refund of $3 (they are then cleaned and reused). <S> Despite this, many people are saying that Australia's compulsory helmet laws are responsible for the lack of success of the bike sharing scheme. <A> My own personal experience of the Melbourne BikeShare scheme is relatively extensive and I have spoken to quite a few tourists at the various kiosks even if only to help them understand how it works(It is actually quite simple and easy by international standards).Invariably they express a disinterest in hiring a bike when they learn that a helmet is mandatory. <S> On a couple of occasions when I offhandedly suggested I had seen a few people not wearing helmets and there seemed to be no interest from the police in this they hired bikes. <S> It is impossible to refute the claim that the helmets are not limiting the success of the scheme. <A> Brisbane has a bike sharing scheme where a helmet is included with some (not all) of the bikes. <S> I don't believe it is an additional fee. <S> With regards to head lice, it is gets hot enough in Brisbane that they aren't likely to survive for very long in a helmet without food. <S> The other thing that has helped the success of the bike share in Brisbane is more reasonable pricing. <S> I think $2-3 for the day. <A> An additional resource that may point the way for the future: " A vending machine that serves up safety: MIT class creates bike helmet dispenser " for use in conduction with Boston's Hubway cycle hire scheme. <S> The first of these are now being deployed in Boston. <A> I'm in Charlotte, NC. <S> The city is considering a bike share program since we are hosting the Democratic National Convention next year. <S> I heard at a bike club meeting that vending machines would be next to the bikes with helmets available for purchase. <S> Helmets are not required here except for children. <S> The price of the vending machine helmets will be $10 I think. <A> Many smaller, university-based bike sharing programs provide helments. <S> For example, the City Cycles program at the University of Rochester (in New York) provides helmets: <S> We have 20 street bikes (Gary Fisher brand) with fat, smooth tires for fast rolling and no punctures. <S> We also have one tandem (a "bicycle built for two"). <S> All bikes come with racks. <S> Helmets are available (are encouraged) for all riders. <S> The bike rental program at Louisiana State University also provides helmets: <S> LSU students may rent bikes for two hours each day free of charge from the UREC Student Recreation Center equipment desk. <S> In addition, day and weekend rentals are available for a nominal fee to include use by UREC members and the community. <A> In New Zealand and Australia, bicycle helmets are compulsory, and required by law. <S> So a bike programme must provide helmets, or specifically say to bring your own. <S> There's not <S> as much bike usage as one might expect if it was another large flat city ideal for riding. <S> My city's scheme FAQ http://www.nextbike.co.nz/en/christchurch/common-questions/
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A helmet is included with each bike rental and LSU UREC recommends for it to be worn for the rider’s safety while operating the bike. The Brisbane Council is expanding the sharing scheme and I am often seeing people on these bikes where I work in South Brisbane.
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Is it better to have mountain bike tyres for the winter? I have a hybrid commuter bike that is more at the mountain bike end of the spectrum Currently I have slick road tyres on it. Is it a good idea to get mountain bike tyres on it to deal with the wet and icey winter conditions? I've heard conflicting stories about if they help or not EDIT: To clarify - this is for commuting to work on the road. Not for off-road stuff. <Q> It depends on your anticipated conditions. <S> If you're planning on off-roading in snow you need tires with fairly heavy lugs (though too heavy will just collect snow). <S> For ice you definitely need metal-studded tires -- riding a bike on ice <S> otherwise is like riding on grease. <S> If you ride mostly on roads that are fairly heavily traveled by autos the best choice is fairly smooth studded tires where the studs are on the sides but the middle is smooth. <S> This way the studs engage when you lean at all, but don't seriously impede you when riding straight. <S> icebike.org has kind of fallen into disuse (the latest "news" is from 2006), but still has some good links. <A> There are a number of factors that you will have to weigh up. <S> Knobbly tires will help with traction if the surface is covered with a loose/shifting covering i.e. leaves, mud, snow etc. <S> Try looking at the Panaracer Pasela or Ribmo. <A> I go to work by bike making 6.000 km/year. <S> Conditions are: countryside environment, German snowy/icy winter (approx. <S> 1..3 months). <S> Two years ago, my bicycle dealer pointed me to the "Schwalbe Marathon Winter" tire, which wears more than 200 carbide spikes on its surface (manufacturer's product page: http://tinyurl.com/5tcbvs3 ) <S> I tried it (if you buy only one, put it on the front wheel, as this is important for steering and all the little compensating steering movements to keep your balance - additionally, you can use your front brake to stop safely) and am now totally convinced: if you face snow and ice in winter, this is your choice. <S> Don't worry about melting days: when streets are clear, it runs with little friction loss. <S> My daily ride is approx. <S> 32 minutes, and I found no significant increase in time with the spiked tire on clear streets (although there is a noticable rolling noise). <S> This year, I was very lazy and left the Marathon winter mounted on the front wheel all summer long, and after thousands of km, there is still little wear-out of the hard metal carbide spikes (however, three of >200 have completely fallen out, which is still a good rate and acceptable for next winter). <S> The tire is not cheap (40..50 EUR per piece in Germany for the 28" / 622mm size), but if you cycle on snowy/icy winter on a regular basis, it's worth every penny! <A> Knobby tires will definitely help when there is snow or wet leafs on the road. <S> They won't help with ice, though, only spiked tires are useful for icey roads. <A> One lesson I have learned about ice biking is that a some point you must put your feet down. <S> I would suggest if you are planning on riding on icy slippery surfaces wear some sort of traction device on your shoes. <S> They don't need to be overly aggresive,but enough to keep you from slipping while stopped. <A> I doubt this would work on hard water ice (and I haven't tried it myself) <S> but there is some information out there about using zip ties as makeshift tire studs . <S> For hard packed snow and crusty ice, it seems like this would add quite a bit of traction.
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As other posters have noted, knobby tires will definitely help in snow and other winter-type road messiness. If you are planning on just riding in wet conditions, there are a number of slicker MTB tires that will help displace water, offer some off road affordance but still offer a good speed on the road, i.e. traction without increased rolling resistance.
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Enhancing brake force with steel rims in wet conditions? I currently own an old racing bike, that still has ripped steel rims and a side pull caliper brake. The braking power is acceptable when the street is dry, but as soon as it gets wet (even morning dew) it is getting harder and harder to stop. On the first time stopping, the brakes might even need up to 3 seconds until I feel something, and I have to pull the handles quite hard.This was not a problem in summer, but since the weather is rainy most of the time now, I have to find a solution. The whole Bike cost me 50€, so buying new brakes or rims might not be in the budget. I heard about cork brake pads, that might provide better stopping power when wet, but only found very expensive ones. So if there is another solution, that I missed now, please let me know! Else I will have to ride one of my more expensive Bikes in the winter and have the risk of them getting stolen. <Q> Here you go: <S> these are leather face brake blocks and they will work ten times better in the wet than any Johnny-come-lately Kool-Stop efforts on your steel rims. <S> Pay no more than £3 a set, plus they last forever, and better when wet than when dry. <S> What more could you want? <A> I also ride an old bike wit steel wheels. <S> Compared to my disc mountain bike the brakes seemed non exsistant. <S> If your caliper uses threaded pads try KOOLSTOP BRK14 pads. <S> They are a mountain bike design,they incorporate a wiper like edge that helps shed water and mud. <S> They were a vast improvement for just a pad change. <A> There's quite a big range to choose from so just go with what will fit your rim/tyre/caliper combination the best. <S> Sheldon Brown has an excellent run down on the different variations: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#threaded <A> Simplest solution i have found. <S> When you start riding gently press down your brakes so they rub the rim. <S> After about 100-300 yards your rims and brake pads heat up and dry and brakes are normal. <S> Give it a try, its worked for me so far.
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Any Koolstop salmon pads will give you better braking on steel rims.
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What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement? I am commuting in rainy Seattle, and the rain has started. Right now I have Continental Gatorskin tires on my commuter, but yesterday I noticed I was braking to stop the wheels and skidding quite a bit on wet roads. I know I can gradually adjust braking on front and back to come out of the skid, but I was wondering if i should replace my tires to get a little more grip. My LBS seems to think thin slicks are fine however. Is there a study or data on tire types on wet pavement? <Q> If you are riding on the road, slicks are fine in the wet. <S> If you need to go over any mud, etc. <S> then you'll need something else. <S> From Sheldon Brown : <S> Unfortunately, most people assume that a smooth tire will be slippery, so this type of tire is difficult to sell to unsophisticated cyclists. <S> Most tire makers cater to this by putting a very fine pattern on their tires, mainly for cosmetic and marketing reasons. <S> If you examine a section of asphalt or concrete, you'll see that the texture of the road itself is much "knobbier" than the tread features of a good-quality road tire. <S> Since the tire is flexible, even a slick tire deforms as it comes into contact with the pavement, acquiring the shape of the pavement texture, only while in contact with the road. <S> People ask, "But don't slick tires get slippery on wet roads, or worse yet, wet metal features such as expansion joints, paint stripes, or railroad tracks?" <S> The answer is, yes, they do. <S> So do tires with tread. <S> All tires are slippery in these conditions. <S> Tread features make no improvement in this. <S> Also worthy of note is: <S> Car and truck tires need tread, because these vehicles are prone to a very dangerous condition called "hydroplaning. <S> " This happens when driving fast in very wet conditions, which can lead to the tire riding up onto a cushion of liquid water. <S> When this happens, there is a sudden and total lack of traction. <S> Bicycles can NOT hydroplane because: A bicycle tire has a curved road contact. <S> Since a bicycle leans incorners, it needs a tire with a rounded contact area, which tends topush the water away to either side. <S> A bicycle tire is narrower, so not as much water is in contact withthe leading edge at once. <S> The high pressure of bicycle tires is more efficient at squeezing thewater out from under. <S> At high speeds, hydroplaning is just possible for car tires, but isabsolutely impossible for bicycle tires. <A> First you need to analyze the pavement a bit -- smooth pavement or rough, is it generally pretty clean or is there a light coating of sand or dust, or perhaps a heavy coating? <S> Narrow, high-pressure bike tires do not "hydroplane" at non-supersonic speeds, so you don't need to worry about that. <S> But there is still a thin layer of water between tire and road surface, sufficient to impact the coefficient of friction, and some sort of "tread" or "siping" helps significantly. <S> Any dust or sand exacerbates the problem, and a smooth surface (especially worn-smooth asphalt) can get treacherous. <S> I don't know of any hard numbers (though I would suspect they're out there somewhere), but Wikipedia has this to say (about auto tires): <S> Treadless racing "slicks" on dry roads give maximum traction. <S> These have no sipes, no grooves, and no tread blocks. <S> They also have very poor traction however on even slightly wet surfaces. <A> The conti's really are just fine. <S> There's just less friction on wet roads and so your rear wheel is going to skid at a lower deceleration. <S> I know that some material compositions are better than others. <S> In particular, Michelin carbons and the avocet carbon 15's are claimed to have more grip in wet conditions. <S> But then you have to balance that with puncture resistance. <S> In addition to reduced traction, you also have a greater probability of getting a flat in the rain. <S> Which one is worse? <S> It's up to you. <S> The michelin's and avocet's are nowhere near as durable as the conti-gatorskins <S> (there's a reason they're highly popular as high mileage urban tires). <A> Just to add on to what Wilka said about hydroplaning, people involved with the physics of planes landing are particularly interested in hydroplaning. <S> Sheldon Brown of course talks about this. <S> Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. <S> It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. <S> The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk. <S> The formula used in the aviation industry is: Speed (in knots) = <S> 9 <S> X the square root of the tire pressure (in psi.) <S> I've found a chart here which on page 9 includes this plot: <S> You can see that at the pressures we operate at ones risk of hydroplaning is negligible. <S> Regarding your concerns about flipping, Sheldon Brown has a very informative page, " Won't I Go Over The Bars? ", which details why you should not be concerned with flipping over the handlebars if you are using your front brake appropriately, and shows that when traction is not an issue using just your front brake is the fastest way you can stop. <S> He also speaks about braking in the conditions your asking about (traction impaired). <S> As long as I am not braking on a manhole cover I have never had issues stopping in the rain on 23C slick tires using just my front brake.
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Bicycle tires for on-road use have no need of any sort of tread features; in fact, the best road tires are perfectly smooth, with no tread at all! A wider tire will be a little more helpful because your contact patch is larger. But if you're doing office-park crits in the rain you're better off with the michelin/avocet's.
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How often should hydraulic disk brakes need bleeding? The brake handles for my disk brakes became very loose four months after I bought the bike. The bike shop bled the brakes and put new oil in them, which sorted it. They're feeling a bit loose again (6 months later), but not as bad as last time. I use my bike most days cycling for commuting (6 miles) with longer rides of around 30 miles once or twice a week. How often would you expect to have to bleed your disk brakes and if you had to do it more often would that suggest there was something wrong. <Q> If the brake response gets mushy, also check the brake pads. <S> Personal experience: I saw no need in bleeding the brakes before changing the brake fluid (on a DOT system). <S> Maybe your system is not sufficiently sealed? <S> The need to exchange the fluid depends on the type that is used in your brakes. <S> And this should be self-evident: Do not, under any circumstances, change the type of fluid used in your brake! <S> It will most certainly degrade the gaskets. <S> DOT <S> If your brakes use DOT (classified by the US <S> D epartment <S> o f T ransportation) <S> brake fluid, i.e. "DOT 5.1", the fluid should be exchanged every 1-2 years [1]. <S> With time, the fluid absorbs water, affecting its compressibility. <S> This is by design, since non-absorbed water would affect the compressibility even more. <S> Mineral Oil Mineral oil, however, does not need to be changed so regularly. <S> Unless you open the system, the oil stays good for up to 6-7 years [2]. <S> [1] Bosch Automotive Handbook, 7th Edition, ISBN 978-0-7680-1953-7 [2] <S> http://www.magura.com/de/produkte/scheibenbremsen-2012/prod/mt2/info/faq.html <A> The "need to bleed" indicates a problem with the brakes. <S> On autos, hydraulic brakes should be drained and new fluid installed about every 50,000 miles (though this is rarely done). <S> Comparable mileage on a bike would probably be 5,000-10,000 miles. <A> I think the "regular bleeding" that every hydraulic brake needs should be at most once every Three to Five years, unless some problem happen. <S> Even with sane sealings, there is always some chemical degradation and contamination of the fluid, which decreases its performance, but it happens very slowly if at all, I think. <A> Typical hydraulic disc brakes use an 'open' design to allow for automatic pad adjustment. <S> They have a small reservoir at near the brake lever for 'refilling' the extra brake fluid that is needed when the brake pad needs to be pushed a little closer to the disk in order to compensate the brake pad wear. <S> This type of design leads to less hassle in respect to pad adjustment, but has one main disatvantage: as more and more fluid gets pumped from the reservoir towards the brake cylinders, the oil gets replaced by air. <S> Now if the bikes position changes from the regular upright position to e.g. upside down, air bubbles can slip to the brake hose and that causes the spongy feeling in the brake levers. <S> So you don't necessarily have to open up the system to get air in <S> , that's quasi by design. <S> With a little luck you can pump the air back to the reservoir, but normally you need to bleed the system.
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In general, hydraulic brakes should only need bleeding when the system has been "opened up" for some reason, or when a leak has either allowed air in or allowed enough brake fluid to drain out that the master cylinder is pumping air.
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What is the best way to prevent skidding/fishtailing on wet pavement? This is related to the " What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement " question. I also live in Seattle. So now has come the time where I often need to go down some steep hills on wet pavement. When I need to stop I sometimes skid. What is the best way to stop or prevent the skidding/fishtailing? Either, new components for the wet weather or new techniques I need. <Q> Being aware of your weight distribution can help a lot. <S> You want to make sure you are not leaning forward and taking pressure off of the rear tire. <S> You can also help keep your rear tire planted by giving a slight downward twist on the handlebars with your wrists. <S> Kind of the opposite of a bunny hop. <S> As far as braking technique goes, try to be "progressive" about it. <S> Instead of just applying all the braking power at once, or applying a tiny bit of brakes and just waiting for the bike to run out of steam. <S> Try squeezing the lever, and as you start to slow, apply more and more brakes. <S> This will help you stop in a shorter distance without your losing traction. <S> A note about skidding: Generally rear tire skids can be handled when they happen. <S> A lot of times the best way to ride them out is to keep on the brake and slowly ease it back out. <S> If you just let go of the brake immediately, the rear tire can snap back around and it is easy to lose control. <S> Front tire skids are a little different. <S> If your front tire starts to skid you <S> do want to let go of the front brake immediately. <S> Keeping your front tire rolling is very important to maintaining control of the bike. <A> Here's some technique: Slow down. <S> Allow extra distance to come to a stop. <A> You could use your tire presure a bit lower than you'd use on dry surfaces, since it improves the tire traction (provided you do not underinflate them too much, as to make the tire deform laterlly while cornering, or pinch flatting while transposing small obstacles). <A> Practice braking! <S> With practice you'll get to know when you're about to start skidding <S> and you'll be able to reduce the pressure on the brake levers. <S> Ultimate stopping technique goes like this: Get in a low position (if you can - the bike might limit how low you can get). <S> As you increase pressure on the brakes shift you backwards trying to keep you weight in your feet. <S> Drop your heels to drive your weight into the pedals. <S> Brake as hard as you can without skidding. <S> As you come of the brakes gradually move your weight forwards. <S> In terms of components you're tyres are the most important factor in how quickly you stop - wide spaced knobs are good for stopping and softer compounds are better as well. <S> Lowering pressure will improve stopping distance as well. <S> The problem is that tyres that stop well won't roll as quickly. <A> Practice Braking. <S> Don't grab the lever. <S> Pull it firmly and progressively , you can feel right before it locks up, ease the pressure then. <S> Some bikes are less liable to flip over frontwards or slip right out from under you as soon as brakes lock up. <S> You may lock the wheels during emergency braking at some point to slow down quick enough, if this happens release, and then pull again. <S> Avoid hard-locking at all costs and gradually pull.
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Brake harder on the rear wheel than the front wheel; doing this reduces the risk that your front wheel will lock and cause you to fall. Hang your back end over the saddle, to shift weight toward the rear of your bike.
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How can I add full fenders to a frame with no braze-ons? I recently picked up a bike I want to ride in Seattle rain, but missed the fact that the frame had no braze-ons for attaching full-coverage fenders. I already have a set of SKS Raceblades, but they only provide partial coverage. Do any manufacturers make full-coverage fenders I could use? <Q> Crud Roadracer Mk2s offer a bit more coverage than raceblades <S> I believe http://www.crudproducts.com/products/roadracer/roadracer <S> _ <A> I have suspension fork with absolutely no brazeon or eyelets. <S> I have SKS Chromoplastics which I used to attach the normal way to my previous steel fork, which had the eyelets. <S> These Chromoplastics, if not perfect, have served me very well for some years now (with a lot of off-road abuse). <S> These fenders are currently being manufactured in an "upgraded" version called Longboard: http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&a=product&r=mudguards&i=10438&LONGBOARD <S> I solvd the problem very satisfactorily by passing a ziptie through the safety-clip bolt hole (lower-left part of the image below), and then clamping the metal shafts (which had to be shortened) to the safety-clip, the way they are supposed to be. <S> I put a patch of used-tube rubber between the safety-clip and the suspension, to avoid paint damage and to improve firmness and dampening eventual noise and vibration. <S> My suggestion would be to get some aftermarket safety-clips and do the same on the rear part of the bike. <S> And if it is not possible, rubber, zipties and drilled aluminum plates solve a lot of problems. <S> The safety clip I refer to is this: <A> If your bike has classic-style steel rear dropouts, you might try the Rodriguez Components Universal Fenderizing Object . <S> It's basically a machined screw and plate set that gives you a secure fender mounting position. <S> Plus, hand-made in Seattle. <S> can be improvised out of pieces of flat stock . <A> You can use cable clamps to attach to the fork arms and seat stays for the fender stays. <S> If the bike has bosses for center-pivot brakes you can anchor the top of the fender to them. <S> Without the brake bosses, though, I'm not sure how you'd anchor at the top.
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Otherwise, zip-ties or hose clamps can mount the fender stays to the seatstay and fender brackets to bridge the brakes
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Drop Handlebars on an Old Bike I'm shopping around for a vintage bike (maybe an old Raleigh or Schwinn), but I'm looking for two things: Fenders and a Chain Guard Drop Handlebars I'm starting to think that drop handlebars are newer than most of the vintage bikes I'm looking at. Is it realistic to expect a 50s-70s bike with drop handlebars? <Q> You can have mudguards and a chainguard, mudguards and drop bars, but not drop bars and a chainguard: http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/ <S> To use an automotive analogy, you are looking for the station-wagon version of a two-seater sports car. <S> That said, why not put drops on an old Raleigh 3-speed? <S> The 3-speed Sturmey Archer lever will be simple enough to mount, you will just need new bars, levers, all-important bar-end plugs and tape. <S> Obviously the bars will need to be the older 25.4mm clamp size, but you should be able to acquire these bits and bobs second hand for not much money. <S> The alternative option of getting a chainguard to put on a retro Raleigh is a bit harder - those were a bit model specific whereas handlebars are not. <S> Personally I have a 12 speed Raleigh Gran Sport with the drop bars and a Raleigh Sports 3 Speed with the 'Northroad' bars. <S> I would not swap the bars over on either because they are well thought out and go with the frame geometry. <A> And I'm reasonably sure they went back to the 50s, at least (and maybe much further), though probably the popularity was less until the 70s. <A> Drop handlebars have been around since the dawn of cycling. <S> Generally speaking, a bike witha chaincase is likely to be a commuter and thus not likely to also have drop bars. <S> There is nothing that prevents you from retro-fitting chaincase or dropbars, however.
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But you're unlikely to find the combo of fenders, chain guard, and drops on a bike of any vintage. The 'Northroads' bars are a real treat and, if I did not already have a 3-speed with them, I would look for a bike with them. When I bought my old Raleigh in 1972 the shop had a number of bikes with drop handlebars.
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Getting a cycling saddle that fits I'm thinking of getting a new seat on my exercise bike How can I ensure that the seat will fit? Are there different types of fitting? How many types? My one the bike seat involves 2 hexagonal bolts one on either side and it looks like it can slide if one is loosened, or turn if the other is loosened, and is still when both are tightened. What type is that? And would any of that type fit? <Q> Essentially you have one of these: <S> This is an older type of saddle clamp that was popular when seat posts were made from steel rather than alloy. <S> Swapping over a seat can be a 'bit of a fiddle' as there isn't necessarily a lot of room under the seat to assemble all the bits and keep them in place whilst you do up the bolt. <S> As for saddle choice, you don't have to worry about weight, the elements or the seat getting damaged from being in accidents etc. <S> Therefore you should be able to choose from the heavier/more comfortable seats to find something in budget. <A> There are basically two types of seats: Seats with rails and seats without rails. <S> Seats with rails (two somewhat crooked metal bars running front-to-back under the seat) will fit the clamp in Mathew's photo or any fancier seat clamp. <S> (For fancier ones generally the clamp is permanently attached to the top of the seat post (the part that slides up and down)). <S> Seats without rails generally have a built-in clamp, or in some cases may be more or less permanently attached to the seat post. <S> These are "cost-reduced" seats, designed for cheap bikes and exercise equipment. <S> They are not generally interchangeable without replacing the entire assembly. <S> You can replace the "without rails" seat with one that has rails if you get the necessary clamp or clamp-with-seatpost. <S> The clamp will accept any brand/style of seat with rails, but there are several different diameters of seat posts, and you need to match the post diameter. <S> If your current seat doesn't have rails, your best bet is to take the entire seat assembly -- seat, clamp, and post -- to a bike shop, so that the seat post diameter can be matched. <A> To ensure the new saddle will fit, you should always test it before buying. <S> Good shops will allow you test-rides or offer exchange if it's uncomfortable. <S> As a personal advice: Also include the (often underrated) leather saddles in your search. <S> Many riders attest them superior comfort. <S> A bit firm in the beginning, but they will adjust to your personal butt-shape.
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Any saddle bought from a bike shop will fit. The general idea is that the bolt goes behind instead of in front of the post, you tighten it up on both sides so that the top of the seat is level and the seat is centered on the rails.
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Regaining confidence to ride after an accident I was able to put my best friend on bike. Things went well for a several months. Then, unfortunately she was caught in an accident (the one caused by the so-called "target fixation"). Fortunately, she recovered from her injury. The sad part is that she has lost her confidence to ride. She was enthusiastic for a ride anytime before the accident, but now she is afraid of going for a bike ride. It's even more so on roads she is not used to. What are some of the ways to comfort her? Any books/videos you'd recommend? <Q> I would try the following: <S> Professional psychological (of course, if she agrees...); Riding in non-traffic areas (a sinuous park or countryside would be great). <S> I have already perceived that most people learn a lot of bike-control while riding off-road-like situations, so that they become much more confident to ride in traffic, because the learned extra skills keep them comfortable to ride in everyday situations. <S> Well, just a thought, of course it depends on other factors. <S> My wife, for one, is very scared of traffic, and sometimes trying too hard to give support ends up being an additional way to create stress. <S> Hope it helps, and good luck! <A> I was in a similar situation just over a month ago following my own accident. <S> I'm not sure if it's relevant in your situation, but definitely start by throwing out any regard for riding for time/pace/speed. <A> The problem with target fixation is that the individual has no confidence that it won't happen again. <S> It's like trying to not think of elephants. <S> Talking to a shrink may be worthwhile. <S> Any riding she does initially should be in a setting that is "target poor", and particularly "poor" of whatever sort of thing she fixated on in her crash. <A> Can safety measures be added to decrease the chance of repeating the accident? <S> For example, if a vehicle's driver didn't see her early enough, wearing a high visibility vest might help. <A> Change of scenery works with most traumas. <S> if the fall was on the street, invite to ride on a trail. <S> and vice versa. <A> Perhaps, trying a schedule might work in a risk-free area, for example, a tennis court or parking lot. <S> For example, for Day 1, spend 2 minutes rolling around a bit on the bike. <S> Day 2, spend 4 minutes. <S> Day 3, spend 8 minutes. <S> Day 4, move to a light traffic area for 2 minutes. <S> Day 5, light traffic for 5 minutes. <S> Something like that. <S> You get the picture. <S> (IMO, buying something isn't always the solution.)
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Perhaps a slightly different route that avoids dangerous intersections might be safer and make her feel safer. Try "breaking the spell" by riding for totally different reasons than before -- if she was competitive before, try casual; if she was a work commuter, try riding to a dessert spot; basically ease back into riding by coming at it from a different angle.
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A good bicycle trailer I can order I would like to purchase a bicycle trailer, to take bottles to the depot and pickup stuff from the hardware store from time to time. What is a good one to get? <Q> Interestingly enough most child trailers are rated for up to 100 pounds were as the BOB trailer is only weighted for 75 (if I remember correctly). <S> This means they can handle faster cornering and are narrower for roads. <S> They also cost basically the price of a new bike. <S> See here: Converting kid trailer to cargo trailer <A> Burley is pretty much the first and still a very respected brand. <S> They make a variety of trailers. <S> The other major alternative is BOB . <S> They make a single-wheel bike trailer that is good for narrow trails and paths or twisty streets. <S> Note that there are three main attachment schemes. <S> Most of the Burleys attach to the left rear axle and have a trailer "tongue" that reaches around the left side of the bike. <S> This prevents making hard right turns. <S> The Burley Travoy attaches with a clamp on the seat post and has no serious turning limitations. <S> The BOB trailers attach to both sides of the rear axle, but the trailer "tongue" is jointed so that turning radius is not seriously affected in either direction. <A> I would take a look at Surly Trailer Ted , although I think it is a bit weird in its bike-attachment part. <S> BOB trailer (as mention in a previous answer) could be a good choice. <S> Finally, Extrawheel is always worth taking a look (their site is a bit ugly, but the product is great!) <A> Since you're in Canada, you might want to consider a Wike trailer (made in Guelph). <S> Either the flatbed or the shopping model would fit your needs. <S> The shopping trailer is very similar to their kid trailer, which we have and like a lot. <S> The wheels come off and it folds flat very easily, you can get a front wheel and use it like a shopping cart, and it holds a lot of weight. <S> (They say 100 pounds, we've had more than that in ours.) <S> I'm usually the one pulling the trailer with our kid, and haven't ever had a problem with making hard right turns with the left-side trailer tongue. <A> I would go for a carry freedom, I used the Y frame for a 700mile touring trip and it was brilliant. <S> It's a simple flatbed trailer which would be adaptable to your purpose. <S> Totally overbuilt and always felt really solid. <S> The whole trailer flat-packs as well which is handy for storage. <S> I would warn against single wheel trailers for your purpose as you'll make the bike more difficult to deal with at low speeds because there will be the extra weight trying to pull it over. <S> Also it'll put more stress on the back of your bike as the weight will be distributed 1/2 and 1/2 with the one wheel trailer instead of 1/3 bike - 2/3 trailer as with two wheel trailers. <S> The comment above about handling is probably not an issue because I had my trailer up to 40mph and never had any problems. <S> http://www.carryfreedom.com/products.html
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The only advantage of a BOB or Extra wheel trailer is that they single wheel trailers. For what you are asking about I would recommend buying a used kid trailer (for about $50 - $150), cutting off the fabric and adding some kind of floor/bin.
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Bar end brakes and handlebar swapping I have one road bike that I use mostly for commuting, sometimes for fast alone rides and infrequently for group rides. I was thinking that since most of my riding is alone I should put my tri bars back on my bike. I had an extra set of drops in my closet so I chopped them off to make some bull horns. I now have a sweet set of tri bars. I just need to pick up a set of bar end brakes and I will be all set. There is only one kicker: Since every once and a while I want to do a group ride I would like to be able to swap out my tri bar setup for a drop bar setup. Preferably I would like to keep the brake lines on my bike and just unattach the lines from the break leavers. I had an extra stem lying around so I can just pull out the step from the head set and volla! Went to my LBS to pick up some bar end brakes but this is what they told me: With all bar end brakes you have to run the brake line under the tape so you could not switch out the bars without retaping your bars each time. Anyone know of any bar end brakes that the lines run NOT through the bar tape? Switching between bars frequently (once or twice a month) will cause major wear on your bike and you should pick one thing and stick with it. Is there any truth to either of these statements? I am somewhat skeptical. <Q> Assuming you've got modern brakes, the complex cable run you'd have to set up for this <S> likely makes it not worth it to try for cable splitters. <S> The splitters ( daVinci Easy-Split , Bruce Gordon QS2 , etc) require a bare cable run, so you'd need a pair of cable stops between the front brake and the front brake lever, not found in most modern setups. <S> Even if you didn't have the housing running underneath the bar tape, you'd still need to loosen the cable to remove it from the brake, and re-tightening your brakes each time to enable a bar swap would get old quickly. <S> Particularly if you're swapping stems you would need to be mindful of headset preload. <S> If you end up unbolting and rebolting cables frequently you would increase the wear on them, as the clamping force deforms them and will cause them to fray. <S> If your bike has cantilever or centerpull brakes with split cable stops you could set up two complete cable runs that wouldn't require you to disconnect the brake cables, but that's unlikely on a modern-ish road bike. <A> Get another set of calipers too. <S> Then you just unbolt the front caliper, unbolt the rear caliper, unbolt the bar/stem (whichever). <S> Then Bolt on the new bar/stem, front caliper, rear caliper. <S> Since you probably have split cable stops already the cables and housing would all come off in one go. <S> Depending on your stem it could be like 6 bolts total and no cable adjusting. <S> I do this on my hard tail mountain bike when I switch from geared to single speed. <S> It is more complex because more things change, but this is how I handle the bar and brake and gear cables (and when I run SS <S> I use a wider bar for grunting up the hills). <A> There is a sort of "quick disconnect" for shift/brake cables, used on some folding bikes. <S> You could use those (if you can find them) so that you could swap without having to undo the cables on the bar.
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It's not the case that swapping bars and stems frequently would put undue wear on those components, but it certainly increases the chances that you'll over- or under-tension parts at critical moments and cause a failure.
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Bike Direction on Roof Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts/suggestions on which direction bikes should sit on the roof I've Thule bike carriers which can be left or right opening. So do I place both bikes facing forwards, or do I have the bikes one front facing, one rear facing? If the answer is simply try it and see, so be it, just wondered if anyone had experience of whether one option is easier for mounting the bikes, or provides less wind noise etc.etc.etc. cheers <Q> Mainly it doesn't matter. <S> Usually two bikes are front-first (because it "just seems right"), but once you go beyond two bikes the directions alternate. <S> True, if you don't have the bike properly fastened then, on a fork-mount carrier, it can blow loose a hair easier in the reverse orientation, but it can also come loose going around a curve or going over a bump, so you need to be sure it's well-fastened in all cases. <S> Note that you may find, based on whether you're right-handed or left handed ( <S> or maybe you have a bad shoulder or such), that it's easier to lift the bike onto the roof one way vs the other. <S> In that case it makes sense to have the bikes front-facing on one side and rear-facing on the other. <S> OTOH, the shape of the vehicle, position of the doors, etc, may factor into your orientation decision. <A> Only reason I can think of... <S> Front mounted: I have a "bug shield" (may be called a "bike bra") with my rack (attaches to the handlebars/fork) and it only works on the front of the bike. <S> The advantage is that I get to the end point without bug carcasses on the bars. <S> Otherwise, it probably makes no difference. <A> With two carriers that are well-spaced <S> I've always put them both forward, with three I put the middle one facing backwards to reduce the amount of interference between adjacent handlebars and porteur racks. <S> For most bike-and-rack combinations it shouldn't matter. <A> I learned this to my cost when using them for the first time, having fitted the two bikes in opposite directions as it seem the right thing to do. <S> Short answer; I always fit facing forward. <A> Are the mounts the kind where both wheels stay on the bike, or the style where the front wheel is removed? <S> If it's the kind where the front wheel is removed, then if: <S> You mount the bike backwards and You forget to strap down the back wheel <S> then the bike might get flipped over by the wind and either fall off or damage your car. <S> If you mount it facing fowards then the wind will be keeping the bike in the right position. <S> So I'd recommend mounting it facing fowards.
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With my Atera carriers, fitting the bike 'backwards' means that it can pivot forward on the frame clamp under very heavy braking.
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How do I maintain my weight while cycling more? I started cycling more to get fitter and lose a little bit of weight. I started taking a longer route to work and upped my daily ride from 6 miles to 16. After 2 months of this and consuming less biscuits I've lost almost a stone and am now really happy with my weight. My main aims now are just to be healthier, to improve my indurance a little bit and mainly just to have fun. I really enjoy my longer ride and would like to keep doing it. I thought I would find a new ideal weight for my new higher level of activity, but this hasn't happened yet. I am losing weight slower so should I wait for this to happen or should I eat a little bit more? And, if I do need to eat a bit more what sort of foods would be good? Update: As some people have asked for it my BMI has gone from 23.7 to 21.9. So I've always been in the normal weight BMI category (18.5 – 24.9), but I was getting towards the top end of it. <Q> I worked as a physician (not anymore nowadays, got into medical systems design), and I can guarantee you that either people and health professinals overemphasize the importance of the weight as if it was a single "magic number" regarding health, and it is not. <S> Body fat percentage, cardiovascular endurance, muscle and joint flexibility, dietary habits and psychological stress level are much more important. <S> Besides that, two things you must consider: When one increases pedalling distances and speeds, fat is lost and muscle is gained. <S> Muscle is much more dense, so even if you look lean, you do not lose so much weight, but you exchange a very risk-related tissue (fat) by a much more healty one (muscle). <S> And even while at rest, muscle burns calories much more than the same amount of fat, so <S> the very existence of more muscle implies a higher methabolic rate; When you commute by bike, you get REALLY HUNGRY. <S> You must eat, because food is your gasoline. <S> Actually, wanting to lose weight by eating less then necessary is dangerous for bike commuters, because you might get weak during a ride, which greatly increases discomfort and accident risk. <S> What I do is to eat just enough, take a lot of salad and vegetables when possible (helps to provide anti-oxydants for the body, much useful for us who breathe pollution, etc.), and try NEVER to ride "out of fuel". <S> EDIT: (from wikipedia)Some common body fat percentages (not a recommendation!) <S> Women MenMinimal 10–13% 2–5%Athletes 14–20% <S> 6–13%Fitness <S> 21–24% <S> 14–18%Average <S> 25–31% 18–24%Obese <S> 32%+ <S> 25%+ <S> "The bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) method is a more affordable but less accurate way to estimate body fat percentage. <S> The general principle behind BIA: two conductors are attached to a person's body and a small electric current is sent through the body. <S> The resistance between the conductors will provide a measure of body fat, since the resistance to electricity varies between adipose, muscular and skeletal tissue. <S> " <S> I am not a native english speaker, so some words might not be correct. <S> Hope it helps! <A> Everyone's different. <S> You don't give a hint as to what your body weight or BMI is, so we don't know if you're overweight or anorexic or "just right". <S> Do note that, in some people, intense exercise can cause you to "lose interest" in eating for a period of time, but usually after about 2 months this effect abates and your appetite returns. <S> Unless you feel that you have "issues" with your weight and appetite (eg, a tendency towards anorexia nervosa) you should just let your body decide what it wants to weigh. <S> And simply eat a balanced, varied diet, with moderate amounts of fat and high-quality protein. <S> Stay away from most "supplements", and don't be misled into believing that you need a "high protein diet" or something else super-special. <A> Unless there is something really wrong with your diet or you want to remain chubby <S> then you don't have much to worry about. <S> If you want to build more muscle weight you should probably try some Anaerobic exercise (Lifting weights etc), you can supplement this with eating protein either as meat or taking protein supplements. <S> Of course everyone's body/metabolism is difficult, if you think that you are losing too much weight too quickly <S> then you should probably consult a doctor, for a normal healthy person though cycling more shouldn't put you in any danger of losing an unhealthy amount of weight. <A> Eat more if your power output drops, you take longer to recover from hard efforts, or notice other negative side effects. <S> You can eat more of what you usually do or snack on high-calorie-density healthy foods like nuts if meals get too onerous. <S> My google-fu and queries on the wattage list, bikeforums.net, and roadbikereview.com did not produce useful advice beyond that. <S> You may not stop at an aesthetically pleasing or healthy weight - avid cyclists can get very skinny. <S> At the end of 2013 I'd grown to 205 pounds and 36" around. <S> I stopped eating when I wasn't hungry, continued eating whenever I got hungry but snacked on mixed nuts or meats that stayed with me longer, and started only eating enough I was sated 30 minutes after stopping. <S> I got back in to road cycling. <S> I finished 2014 at 148 pounds with a 28.5" waist after riding 5266 miles mostly at an endurance pace, about 135 a week after ramping up when not dealing with other issues. <S> That's past where ribs and sternum are visible. <S> I started 2015 with a 450 mile rest month in January then got back to a normal 120-170 mile per week training program with intervals, a rest week out of every 4, etc. <S> I'm down to 141 pounds with a 20.2 BMI and 27" waist. <S> At 5'10" that's somewhat meatier than climbing specialists in the professional peloton but skeletal by non-athletes' standards.
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You will find that your body will probably stabilize at a healthy weight, the weight you are losing is fat, as you cycle more you will likely build up muscle weight as well.
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Riding a Mountain Bike in the city I just moved from where there wasn't much of a biking system infrastructure. There were lots of trails though, so I bought an OK mountain bike ($350). Now, I've moved to downtown Seattle and everyone bikes. I'd love to get into it but not sure if a mountain bike is efficient for road-use. Should I look into a conversion kit? Should I just get a road bike and have one off-road and one on-road? <Q> If your commute is urban w/ lots of stops & traffic navigation, the mountain bike handlebar setup can be more maneuverable for tight situations than a road/touring bike. <S> I do miss the maneuverability of my mountain bike since switching to a road bike. <S> A commuter or hybrid bike may be a very good option, with the handlebar & fork designed for more urban situation vs. being tuned for long-haul riding. <A> My advise, buy a suitable commuter bike and keep the mountain bike if you have room. <S> I was in the same situation living in NYC. <S> I found that conversion was not worth the effort and simply switched to a commuter bike. <S> Converting your mountain bike would help but still leave you with some of the drawbacks, such as a heavier frame and shock absorption, which drains your efficiency. <S> A commuter bike will surly get you out on the road more. <S> Your local bike shop will help you find the perfect bike. <S> Things to keep in mind: Frame size is keyCan <S> you add a rack/ <S> fenders?Do you want a single speed or multiple (i suggest multi-speed) <A> Funny you're in Seattle, I had the same experience when I was out there for a summer. <S> I just got "slicks" for tires and it was fine. <A> If you are commuting daily for a long distance, I'll switch to a road bike. <S> If not and you like your current bike, keep it! <S> I own a road bike and a mountain bike, depending where I'm heading. <S> But I do not live in a large city. <A> I have always ridden mountain bikes, and even now that I commute daily since one year ago, most the time I go with my mountain bike. <S> For sure, if you ride in the city and not on off-road trails, chosing a thin lightly threaded tire is the best thing to do. <S> I don't like too thin a tire for 26 inch wheels, though, because the ride becomes very harsh with them. <S> I now also have a fixie, it is SO MUCH faster and easier to go around, but it seems very obvious to me that a skinny-tire-much-lighter bike without fenders and racks and all should be much easier to ride anyway. <A> I recommend keeping a commuter bike for road use and a mountain bike for offroad use. <S> You can always ride a mountain bike on the road if you need to (albeit less efficiently than your commuter bike). <S> A nice, durable steel-framed hybrid is what I use for commuting, though that's really just a matter of prefence. <S> I bought a $350 mountain bike several years ago, and I learned the hard way why cable locks suck. <S> If you're going to lock your bike up in a public place invest in a good u-lock or something better than a cable lock. <S> Also, replace quick-releases with bolt-ons as those same douchebags also like to steal wheels and seats. <A> Start with your current bike, switching to smooth tires. <S> If you find your current bike comfortable, stick with that. <S> Only when you find yourself putting in real mileage (let's say 15 miles/day), then get a road bike (or a fixie if that's your bent) to improve the efficiency. <A> There is nothing you need to do, but you'll probably find that the riding is more pleasant with road/commuter tires – ones with minimal tread. <S> You may also find that a mirror makes life feel saner and safer. <S> After that, you may find that the gearing for a mountain bike is lower than you'd like. <S> If you do, you can change the cassette (rear gears) to get a higher range without too much cost <S> (maybe US $20-40). <S> Or, if you'd like to do some trail riding as well, you might do well to get a second set of wheels. <S> That would enable you to switch easily between knobby and slick tires and also have cassettes that are better suited to each style of riding. <A> I live in NYC (Bronx) and while there are a quite a few bike lanes and paths all there aren't many bike trails that warrant owning a mountain bike. <S> I see a lot of people by me who buy full suspension mountain bikes, but the majority of the time they ride in on the streets, which is such a waste of efficiency and money. <S> yet again I see a lot of people who think they are Lance Armstrong and buy $2K+ road bikes and ride them like idiots. <S> I would get a hybrid or a cyclocross which can handle some potholes and minor off road terrain while still keeping efficiency up. <S> I personally ride a Kestrel RT-1000 flat bar, which is basically a road bike that kestrel uses a flat bar on. <S> This makes it fast, efficient, but with a more upright position that's nimble in stop and go traffic.
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I would at least put road tires on your mountain bike - they really improve your efficiency on pavement.
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Choosing lights for my bike I recently bought a bike and I'm looking at getting some lights for riding at night. I live pretty well lit city so I would just want them to make me more visible to drivers. What kind of things should I look for when purchasing lights for my bike? <Q> The main things to look for when purchasing new lights: <S> How bright are the lights? <S> Can you see them for a few feet, a block, <S> half a mile, etc? <S> What is the angle of visibility of the light? <S> It does you no good <S> if you can only see the light from one single point - you want to be sure your light can be seen from a wide range of angles, especially for your rear light. <S> What features are included? <S> - Do you get multiple levels of brightness (for your front light) or different flashing modes (for your rear)? <S> How long do the lights' batteries last? <S> You don't want to get caught out with a dead battery <S> (trust me, it's not fun) <S> To go along with the above - rechargeable set or normal batteries? <S> The rechargeable is a lot nicer IMO, because you don't have to worry about getting AA/AAAs every few weeks/months. <S> However, it's a lot harder to bring or find backups if you're going to be out for quite a long time. <S> If you go with AA/AAA's you can also use rechargeable versions, which would cut down on the cost if you use your lights often. <S> Price point - <S> How much is your safety worth? <S> Theft/secturity - How often do you need to worry locking your bike up in an area where people can take / mess with your equipment? <S> If it is quite often, you'll want to look into something that has a quick release from the light to the frame or rubber O-rings (those are fairly easy to take on/off often) - thanks Colin Newell <A> The Bicycles Stack Exchange Blog now has the most comprehensive bike taillight review on the internet (to our knowledge): <S> Review of the Best Bicycle Tail Lights in 2012 <S> In total I reviewed fifteen different tail lights. <S> The Cygolite Hotshot performed best in the most categories, but there are several other lights which did quite well. <S> If you're looking for a good rear light, check out this review. <A> With regard to the battery you have rechargeable and disposable, which is perhaps another variable (definitely not independent of cost). <S> You need to decide first what sort of use you will give the lighting system, both in terms of brightness needs (is it just to be seen, or do you need light to see?) <S> and in terms of frequency/duration of use. <S> If you only use a headlight occasionally then a simple clamp-on disposable battery unit is apt to be fine. <S> If you will use the light to commute morning and evening in the dark, and your total commute time is 90 minutes, you need something entirely different (ie, a good rechargeable system or a hub generator). <S> Unfortunately, I've not found a site that tests headlights for brightness and battery life, so you have to go by what the vendors say, which is often wishful thinking, or at least meaningless mumbo-jumbo. <S> But, for the OP, living in the city, probably most important is a flashing taillight, the brighter the better. <S> The headlight can be a simple clamp-on model. <S> I once had a flashing xenon strobe (intended for use on life jackets) similar to this <S> and it was the cat's pajamas. <A> The main thing that you would consider is cost , lights can go from a few to hundreds of dollars. <S> Over here (Netherlands), a lot of people use cheap LED lights, like these : <S> These work quite well, and are cheap enough <S> you don't have to worry about losing them or theft. <S> One thing I would invest in are reflectors on your frame, and in your wheels, as they will greatly increase your visibility with almost zero cost and maintenance. <S> Something like this:
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It's nice to have different flashing modes on your rear because it catches people's attention at lot quicker than a steady light. Basically your variables (not independent) are cost, brightness, and battery life (if not using a generator).
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Front brake only on a fixed-gear bike Is it considered safe-enough to only have a front-brake on a fixie in a urban area that has many hills? I've been considering buying one, but I want to get some opinions before I move forward. <Q> Yes. <S> The front brake provides basically all of the stopping power in a bicycle, and recent tests in Bicycle Quarterly show that, in emergency stops, the distraction of attempting to use the rear brake may even increase stopping distance. <S> Maximum bicycle braking power is achieved just before the bicycle starts to pitch over, as the rear wheel lifts off the ground. <S> Once that occurs, it's trivial to lock the rear wheel with a brake or by using your legs on a fixed gear. <S> The main disadvantage of having a front brake only in extremely hilly situations is not being able to dissipate some of the thermal load of braking between both rims, so you risk overheating the front. <A> There are situations, such as ice, or slick leafs covering the road surface that make application of the front brake dangerous. <S> Generally the front brake does all of the stopping because it does not lose traction until the bike flips; however, in the aforementioned scenarios, the front wheel is likely to lose traction, pitching the bike and rider to the ground. <S> In those cases, it is safer to slow down on the rear wheel, where a skid does not cause a total loss of control. <S> Sheldon Brown definitely mentions this in the single speed section, where he recommends using both front and rear brakes on freewheeling bikes. <A> The rule about two brakes is a rule about redundancy: If one brake fails, the other can be used to safely slow you to a stop. <S> That said, a fixie already has some kind of a rear-brake built in: The fixed pedal connection. <S> As long as you have your feet on your pedals, you can apply reverse force. <S> The only problematic thing about this pedal-rear-brake is, that it only works as long as your feet are actually on the pedals. <S> And that is where the hills come in: Are you certain that you can keep your feet on your pedals, independent of the hill you are riding down? <S> If so, I see no problem with front-brake only fixie. <S> Likewise, if you want the ability to let go of your pedals to go down a hill fast, you need a second normal brake. <S> A fixie's gear is generally not suitable for riding down hills fast. <S> So, either you limit your speed to what you can safely follow with your feet, or you use a second brake. <S> I would definitely opt for the later. <A> In the 70's I raced a track bike in the Velodrome. <S> After moving away from Atlanta I put a front break on and used the bike as a road bike. <S> Even though I had the brake lever, I very rarely used it as braking with your legs (toe clip/clipless pedals) is much more rewarding. <A> As a youngster 55 years ago I understand the legal requirement was a front brake only on a fixed wheel bike and <S> that was all many of us had. <S> Living on the edge of the Fens in Peterborough we had access to miles of dead flat countryside and many riders used a 12 tooth rear sprocket for a really high gear. <S> Hard to spin up initially but great for constant high speed on the flat. <S> We also amused ourselves using lorries exiting Kates Cafe on the A1 to act as a windbreak riding inches behind them for perhaps 10 miles at a stint, risky but fun demanding sharp reflexes!
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However, if you have a hill that requires you to apply some force from a normal brake to keep your speed controllable, you should have two independent normal brakes.
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When accompanying children on roads - ahead, beside or behind? When accompanying children (in my case roughly in the 5 to 9 range) on a moderately busy (by rural standards) road on our commute to their school I'm sometimes ahead, sometimes beside (at least the smaller one) and sometimes behind. What is best practice? Bearing in mind: ahead of them I can control their speed and demonstrate to them safe cycling beside is good, but this only takes care of one child (I'm cycling with two) behind them I can see what's going on The third option is what I tend to favour most. <Q> For safety reasons I prefer to be behind them. <S> That way I can position myself on the road slightly further out then they are. <S> This forces any overtaking vehicles to negotiate past me first and makes them provide a little more breathing space for my child in front. <S> It certainly seems to prevent them trying to squeeze past. <A> My children are 5, 9 and 11 and as the eldest ones are reasonably proficient, my 5 year old has not been cycling very long so she is a bit erratic, so I tend to go with: <S> Eldest in front - <S> I know I can trust him to stop at junctions correctly.9 year old next - she is good at cycling, but doesn't always pay attention, so having her brother stop at junctions in front of her <S> helps a lot.5 year old next, with me beside her <S> so <S> no matter how far she weaves she will not be the furthest out into the road. <S> In an emergency I could also grab her or push her over onto the kerb (not ideal, but preferable to going under a car...) <S> This also means I can see all three of them at all times. <A> I follow behind, but some topics need to be reviewed before and during the rides. <S> And also, for all our best intentions, the group gets split, or you coast ahead <S> or they drift behind. <S> I tend to review these points with my family or picnic group: <S> The intended route, and I try and ask the kids if they know what and where I'm talking about. <S> It is important to get the kids thinking about their local geography and not mindlessly following mom and dad. <S> Marching order: if I'm solo with kids, I'm usually following. <S> If I'm with my wife or another parent, often we have a parent leading, or in second place, and a parent as caboose. <S> Verbally agree, assign or describe the next stop. <S> This not only allows the kids to participate in the navigation, gives them some measured independence towards leading the way, but also is good practice for parents to think ahead about what the next intersection is, and if the kids should lead thru it. <S> Not agreeing on a stopping point leads to kids wandering far ahead parents changing course pursuing kids buddies that just "wanted to check that thing out." <S> Leading when you cannot describe the route clearly. <S> Often this is leading slowly, so that the slow pedalers are not left behind. <S> If you do lead, lead ahead no more than a block/signal. <S> Sometimes, especially if you are coasting downhill, or your group is split by a changing signal, you have to wait on the other side of the light. <S> I find that on my cargo bike, I end up coasting far faster than the kids can pedal. <S> I've found that I can get caught up in moments of riding just looking at the traffic around you, and suddenly no-one is ahead of you. <S> How to handle turning left at a green light. <S> This matter of right-of-way is not intuitive to elementary school kids. <S> Such intersections are important to agree on stopping at, or a block before, and possibly changing your marching order so that you lead when there is a proper break in traffic. <A> Interesting in that what you describe what you're actually doing seems fine to me. <S> Given <S> that, if I trust the 9 year old to stop at stop signs, lights, intersections, etc, ...I'd tend to go with behind. <S> Namely, because you can see what's going on. <S> The problem with "ahead" is when a child lags behind and you don't realize it. <S> And also, you're constantly looking back; <S> which may very well take your experienced eyes off of the road ahead. <S> I say behind, but close, so that you have voice control at the very least. <S> Side-by-side riding may or may not be more dangerous <S> , so, you'll have to make a judgement call. <A>
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Sometimes traffic is loud, and shouting from behind doesn't work well, so them seeing you lead off can be effective as well. Kids that drift left into the lane sometimes need to be placed immediately behind the lead parent to give them a more distinct target to follow. On beside, I'd ride beside the less experienced child with the more experienced child ahead. If you run ahead you most definitely should have some sort of mirror. As for "beside", it'll depend on the road or path situation.
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Is there anything special to pay attention to when preparing a bicycle for powdercoating? I am thinking of having an old bike powdercoated to spruce it up a bit. What do I need to do to prepare the frame? Remove all components? What about stickers and decals? Some kind of chemical etching dip? It is an aluminium MTB frame. <Q> For threaded bits you have two choices - leave junk bolts in there that will get powdercoated over and then carefully remove them (leaving a bit of an edge around the bolt hole) or let them get masked but almost certainly somewhat powdercoated into and use a tap and die set to chase them before reassembly. <S> Be prepared to face/ream/chase the headtube and bottom bracket in any case. <S> Do make sure you've cleaned it as much as possible, removing any residual grease and road dirt. <S> I wouldn't worry about the stickers and decals, the media blasting to prepare the frame should take care of that. <S> With the relatively low cost of media blasting I wouldn't bother trying to strip the paint myself. <S> Make sure you find a powdercoater that is familiar with bicycle frames; particularly when it comes to media blasting they need to understand how thin the tubing is. <A> I have taken a bike to a powdercoater before. <S> Many of them actually do motorcycle frames regularly <S> so they're very good with prepping the surfaces and screw holes and dealing with complex shapes. <S> The hardest thing for me was the fork race -- I had to have it removed by a bikeshop. <S> Some people have success with a DIY approach, but it is safer to do it with the right tools and experience <S> (it is not a routine maintenance activity). <S> Just ask them about your concerns. <A> Everything must be removed from the frame. <S> Powdercoaters will do the sandblast/strip for you generally. <S> Alu must be chemical dipped. <S> Good powdercoaters will put plastic/rubber plugs in the screw holes so that they remain clean. <A> You indeed need to remove as many components as you can. <S> I took an old cruiser to a powder coater a few months ago and had a pretty nice result. <S> As mentioned in other posts the main issues are the threads and the bearing races. <S> The worse for both would be if they get sanded. <S> Try to cover them as well as you can with duck tape or equivalent and make sure you clearly explain them not to touch those areas. <S> On my bike there was a bit of paint on the bearing races for both the fork and the bottom bracket (old type of cranks/bb). <S> I used a dremel with a metal spinning brush in order to nicely clean the races and reface them, and it seems to be working pretty well so far <S> (make sure you grease them afterwards). <S> Good luck with it! <A> Make sure to clean out all grease and oils in the frame tubing. <S> I just recently had my bike painted and while they hung the frame up to dry, heated grease caused a little defect in the frame on the top of the seat post insert.
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If there is residual grease or frame-saver compound in the tubes, the powder-coater should have solvents to remove this stuff. From my experience they will sandblast the frame before so you do not need to worry about it being dirty or having stickers... it will all be taken care of with the sand. You'll definitely need to remove all components. It's always good practice to chase the threads when you get it back from the powdercoater.
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Starter Road Bike for Tall Man I'm a marathoner that is interested in mixing in some duathlons and triathlons, but I am having trouble finding a starter bike (< $1500) made for a tall man. I am 6'6". Any brands and models that you can recommend that offer a frame that fits someone around my height? <Q> I said "probably" though, you would do best getting yourself to a local shop that knows something about fitting people to frames. <S> Being so far from the average height I'd not risk buying something offline without having tried sitting on anything, particularly as it's your first road bike. <A> You really should go to a couple of good LBS's and get fit. <S> They'll be able to recommend some different companies that make bikes that will fit your build. <S> There are so many different variables besides just height that it's impossible to recommend a brand based on what you've given. <A> At 6'6", be wary of your local bike shop, unless you really trust them or they have a great reputation. <S> Sounds like blasphemy to say that, but one of the problems you may have is that many manufacturers may not make a large enough frame for you and you will get sold the biggest thing they have from the brands they carry. <S> Specialized and giant do not. <S> 63+cm would probably be your likely range, but a good shop with a fit that you will probably pay 100$ or so for should be able to help you dial that in. <S> Things other than frame size are important as well. <S> I don't know your dimensions but you're probably wider in the shoulders than most, so you'll want handlebars that fit you well. <S> Stem length is also partially driven by flexibility, so that's a consideration too. <S> Also crank arm length can be tough for bigger guys, the expert in tall bikes is probably Lennard Zinn. <S> He's a big guy himself and a custom frame builder, you may want to have a read through his site and consider some aftermarket options for those components. <A> To mitigate, you'll want to experiment with long seatposts that have set-backs and long stems. <S> Since you're a marathoner, you're probably quite fit and are limber enough to deal with handle bars that are far lower than the seat. <S> This lower stack height will also help you not be so cramped. <S> The pros do it all the time. <A> SOMA makes good quality affordable frames and their ES comes in 66cm. <S> I'm only 6'4 <S> but long in the limbs <S> and I rode that on an extended tour just fine. <S> The frame will probably set you back $400 or so which should leave room to kit it out. <A> Just about to ask a similar question, and figured I'd give you what I know so far. <S> I'm 6'8 <S> ", more torso than legs. <S> 36" inseam, 37" sleeve in dress shirts. <S> Trek 1.5 is the low-end Trek road bike, aluminum frame, and comes in a 64 or 65cm setup. <S> I have one. <S> It works pretty darn <S> well, out of the box. <S> Both Trek and Specialized make bikes in this size, but not all of their bikes; that said, you're getting started around $1k. <S> Only change I made was upgrading the shifters on mine; they were terrible. <A> I had a similar budget getting started and at 6'5" and change found it impossible to find a local bike shop that could find a good fitting bike. <S> I started out with the KHS Flite 747: <S> http://zinncycles.com/product/khs-flite-747/ <S> You can get that for around $1600 and there are older models available for cheaper. <S> I measured myself and went with the XXL frame and then got fitted to the bike and <S> the guy said I fit the bike great. <S> I'm now looking into possibly upgrading with a http://bikeclydesdale.com/ which has bikes made for taller riders with more customizations.
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Eventually, you may want to get custom geometry ($$$), but tall folks can get by with frames that don't quite fit. At 6'6" you're probably going to be looking at the top end of most manufacturers size ranges, road frames of 62cm and above are the range you'll be looking at. Nothing "off the shelf" is going to fit perfectly for you. You need to know your stack and reach in order to find the best geometry for you. Off the top of my head, in non-custom models, Trek and cannondale both make bikes large enough (I have a 6'5" friend on both of those), and I know for sure
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My bike leans to the right. What should I check? The bike I use to commute - a cheap, no brand city bike - is unbalanced, and naturally leans to the right. This is not noticeable normally, but it's enough to make riding without the hands on the bars requires quite some effort to avoid drifting right. Of course I can't just ask you what the cause is, but could you help me in finding it? What should I look for/test/check? <Q> a) Is the headset tight? <S> Over time that can loosen up and it'll start to lean in one direction or the other (usually based on which side of the pothole you just hit). <S> b) Are your wheels true? <S> this probably won't make a major difference but it might combine with the previous point. <S> c) Is the weight on the bicycle evenly distributed? <S> E.g., do you wear a messenger bag across your left shoulder so the weight of the load pulls the bike in that direction? <S> d) <S> Does this happen in a parking lot as well as on the road? <S> Don't forget that streets aren't flat - they curve off to the edges to allow water to shed from the roadway (and into nice deep puddles for motorists to drive through and splash cyclists). <S> If it only happens on the road (and you always ride on the right hand side of the road) <S> it's probably because of Gra-vi-ty. <A> First check that the handlebar is actually square to the front wheel. <S> Next check that the seat is straight relative to the top bar. <S> Stand in front of the bike, straddling the front wheel, and sight down the top tube. <S> Verify that there is no twist in the frame causing the front steering tube to not be in line with the seat tube. <S> Check the fork and frame for any other obvious out-of-alignment problems. <S> (Note that a frame can be straightened if it's slightly bent.) <S> Also make sure neither of the pedal shafts is bent. <A> Since the headset bearings tend to be always around the same position while riding (because the headset does not spin, except for those performing barspins), and we rarely disassemble them, sometimes the spheres create depressions on the bearing tracks. <S> This creates a "stable" position when the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, but sometimes this self-centering is to another (non-straight) position. <S> To check this problem, lift the bike from the top tube in normal riding position, and try to gently take the handlebar slightly away from this position. <S> If the bike tends to "self align", the most probable cause is this "marked" headset. <S> Fully disassemble and clean the bearings to perform a visual inspection is the only way to be 100% sure. <S> To solve the problem, these sequential steps should be taken. <S> If the former step didn't solve, go on to the next: <S> Loosen the headset just a little bit, letting it tightened just enough to prevent play when braking. <S> This solves the problem sometimes; Open it <S> (no need to disassemble) just enough you can spin the spheres out of position. <S> Do this for the upper and lower bearing; Fully disassemble (including remove the cups from the frame), clean and remount in a different position; <S> If neither of these solves, replace the headset for a new one. <S> EDIT: take away the handlebar and perhaps the front brake, and perform some barspins, to reorient the spheres. <S> This could be the "Step 1.5" Hope it helps <A> How much lean are we talking about? <S> I jokingly said that you should ride around with a single pannier. <S> However I ride around like this all the time, and if there isn't much in the pannier (pump, some spare tubes, a couple of small tools), I can easily ride with no hands. <S> I would check that your wheel is actually properly set in the hub. <S> I know on my bike <S> it's possible to do up the quick release without the wheel properly seated. <S> However the few times that I've done it, I noticed right away because the wheel rubs on the brakes. <S> You should spin the wheels and ensure that the distance between the brake pads and the rims stays constant as it turns. <S> If it doesn't you either got warped rims, or the wheel isn't mounted right. <A> Has the bike been in an accident recently? <S> Your frame might be skewed as a result. <S> Happened to me, with the exact same symptom. <S> After careful checking it turned out the top tube was slightly bent in one place. <S> This happened in the days of steel frames, though. <S> An aluminum or carbon frame is more likely to break than to bend.
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Then check to be sure that neither of the crank arms is bent (a common problem with bikes that are frequently dropped on their sides).
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best rear rack for fuji absolute bike? my trail bike (only i've ever attached a rear rack) have a straight line from the seat stays holes to screw in the rear rack and the top clearance for the rear tire. my wife's fuji bike has the rear tire way higher than the holes on the seat stays. Can i add any brand of rear rack to this bike? or should i look for something special for these cases? <Q> It takes a little bit of bravery the first time, but you can easily apply some force and bend the front rack stays to reach down to the seatstay. <S> The rack stays are designed to be bent, and doing so doesn't appreciably reduce the carrying capacity of the rack. <S> The majority of the load is carried down the vertical portions of the rack to the dropouts, and the horizontal stays are purely there to prevent the rack from rotating forward or backwards - their effect on the load bearing capacity of the rack is negligible. <S> Many constructeur bikes do away with those stays entirely, bolting the rack directly to the rear fender. <A> With the exception of racks that click into bags made by the same manufacturer (like Topeak), racks are mostly all the same. <S> The exception to this is high-capacity touring racks, which get quite expensive and are overkill for anything but touring or hauling very heavy loads. <S> If you're concerned that you'll have to mount the rack on a bit of an angle, don't worry about that. <S> However, if the rack stays are being blocked, then you have a problem that'll have to be solved with bending rack stays, and that'll reduce the effective carrying capacity and durability of the rack. <A> Another possible solution may be a seatpost mounted rack. <S> They have a capacity of around 20lbs. <S> Since they attach to the seatpost only there should be no clearance issues.
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With racks, carrying capacity is far more important that brand or model.
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