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What should I look for when buying tubes? I wanted to buy a spare tube to carry while riding, but it appears there is wide choice: the first website I checked carried 92 items in the tube category, another one had 69, with prices varying from 3,29€ to 16,5€ (that's 5x). What should I look for aside from size and valve type? Does brand make a difference, or is it more like “grab any one, they're all the same”? <Q> I've heard a few people say brand doesn't matter <S> and they all come from the same factory / country. <S> I've had bad experience with some tubes though <S> (ok I'll mention them, BBB). <S> They would bulge in places. <S> I've typically had no problems with tubes from the major tyre manufacturers like Michelin, Continental and Schwalbe. <S> Schwalbe marketing suggests their tubes hold pressure longer than other brands due to higher quality standards or possibly more butyl, and Michelin does too for their butyl tubes . <S> Lightweight or Latex tubes will not hold pressure as long and need to be pumped up more often. <S> I tend to think the large tire manufacturers know their rubber, they have better quality control <S> and they care about their reputation. <S> So I don't subscribe to the "they're all the same" philosophy. <S> At my LBS there is little price difference, if any, between say a standard Michelin tube and a BBB. <S> The price difference you're seeing may be for specialist features such as very lightweight, puncture resistant, latex etc. <A> and you're pretty much good to go with any butyl rubber tube. <A> I always use Latex tubes. <S> but i had 2 flat tyres in 6 months using butyl <S> and i'm now cycling almost 6 months with Latex tubes <S> and i didn't have a flat tyre <S> , you'll need to pump your tubes every-time you go for a spin because latex looses his pressure pretty quick (3-4 days <S> and my tubes have no pressure left) <S> latex is a bit more expensive than butyl <S> but that's only a couple of dollars. <S> probably cheaper than time you loose to put on a new tube <A> Schwalbe tubes are both Seamless (they're extruded rather than vulcanized pieces) and have a higher butyl content. <S> The are made in their own facility, and they don't make tubes for anyone else. <S> They've been independently tested to hold air better than anything on the market. <S> So no, not all tubes are the same, they`re not made all in the same facility!
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if you buy any of the huge company like michelin or schwalbe you can be sure to have "good" tubes. Unless you're looking for a lightweight or specialty tube (latex, flat resistant, etc), make sure you've got the right size and right type and length of valve stem Most tubes out there are simply re-branded Kenda tubes, anyway.
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attaching seatpost acessories to rear of racks? most night lights are designed to attach to the seatpost. but while carrying a bag on the rear rack that area get's blocked. some manufacturers sell cheap, awful, lights that attach to the rack (topeak) but i figure some kind of adapter would be much more useful (mostly since everyone may have night lights before getting a rack... i do :) but my searches for such a adapter failed. do you know any? This is one example of night light i have http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rechargeable-7-mode-red-5-led-safety-bike-tail-light-with-7-mode-2-red-laser-beam-35mw-90117 (i regret. do not buy, laser is useless snake oil. but the leds are OK. EDIT: regret #2, i had rain for the 1st time --socal-- and when wet, the shorted the buttons which are obviously not water proof, so it spend all night turning the leds and laser randomly on and off. battery hold up ok though.) and this a rack http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/mtn-2-rack.html (it has a hole on the back, where you can fit a L shaped adapter that holds a reflexive cat's eye) <Q> One possibility is to use extra rubber shims to use the seatpost attaching mechanism to attach to the stay of your rack, like so: <S> You might be able to use something like the Low down light mount bolted through that hole to give you a little bit of post hanging from the hole and use that with the seatpost mount... <S> You might be able to mount the hardware without the seatpost mechanism to the hole of an L-bracket mounted in that hole... <S> With racks with a more serious light mounting bracket instead of just a horizontal hole, I've found many light can clip directly to the bracket with no extra hardware at all, like so: <A> For a lightweight light that clamps to a seatpost all you need is a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter and some way to clamp it to your rack. <S> I'd recommend about a 5" length of plastic or steel electrical conduit (though buying such a short length may be difficult). <S> Or a length of wooden dowel will work. <S> Clamping it to the rack will require some ingenuity, but if the rack has a reflector bracket attached you could drill holes in the pipe to bolt to the bracket. <S> But another option, for the light you have, is to discard the pipe-clamp portion of the bracket and bolt just the actual mount to something. <S> A short length of aluminum "angle iron" would probably work. <A> If you want something purpose made I know that there are lots of rear lights that come with reflector mounts as included options. <S> For example, here's one from Blackburn. . <S> Look around and read the specs, or ask your LBS for suggestions (there are lot's of crappy lights out there and every shop has their favorite that's proven itself to be durable). <S> There are also plenty ways to rig a light onto the reflector mount of your rack, just use your imagination. <A> Cateye seem to have quite a few mounting options for each light on their website, including an adapter bracket for a rear rack, which fit most Cateye lights at least. <S> You can also buy just the mounts without having to buy a whole light, or light set. <S> Or you could get a light designed to mount to a rack which many of the German ones do like Busch and Muller . <S> Then you have the no bracket style lights like the ones from Knog that you should be able to mount to a rack. <A> After riding a few weeks with a pvc tube as @Daniel suggested, and another few weeks with the light bolted directly to the rack, I plan on 3D print a $#@!% bracket. <S> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:263648 i <S> over <S> did it a little. <S> It is now fully parametrized and can be used with any rear bike rack (just enter the screw you want, <S> the distance from one screw to another, thickness, etc) and any slide-in bike light (chinese, planetbike, etc) just enter the size of the connector part from the light. <S> Death to proprietary connectors! :D <S> now i just have to convince myself to <S> pay $12 plus almost same as that for shipping for something that might be too flimsy for any actual use :-/ <A> Planet Bike's small parts page has a section for tail lights that includes quite a few shims and adapters. <S> You may be able to find just the thing there. <S> Good luck!
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If there are only mounting holes for a reflector bracket, you can bolt an "corner bracket" to the rack and bolt the pipe to the bracket.
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Bottom bracket for framebuilding This question has got me hugely excited about building a bamboo bike. I've found some instructions and tips here and here . I plan to find/buy an old bike to use as a donor. I think I'll use the head tube, forks, stem (basically the whole front end) from the donor bike to minimise compatibility issues. I'll use the dropouts from a bmx, since I'm building a fixie and it has horizontal dropouts. Which leaves the bottom bracket. I could buy a new one from a framebuilding supply site or use the one from the donor bike. My questions: What do I need to consider for the bottom bracket? Should I use a cartridge style bearing and buy some single speed cranks ? What are the odds that my old donor bike will have a bottom bracket shell that will fit with the new bottom bracket bearings? Do I need to buy a bottom bracket shell from a framebuilding site? Are there any other complications I've overlooked? <Q> I would agree with Daniel about the cartridge style BB. <S> Just make sure whatever cranks you get that they're compatible. <S> Applies to any carbon and steel bonds, not just the BB shell. <A> I think you should select a donor frame with characteristics you feel comfortable to work with. <S> If you are a novice with bike mechanics, it would be VERY advisable to get a frame, build a complete bike from it by yourself, ride it for a while, then disassemble it. <S> For sure you are going to get precious insights about your own skills, <S> some tricks involved in assembly and disassembly, and you will have time to change your mind (change for another frame, or another frame type or size) before you actually CUT anything ;o) <A> Take a look at Sheldon's entry for "bottom bracket" ; it lists several different types, but most of them you'll never see. <S> Most bikes made today use the "British" BB shells. <S> You might also see a few of the one-piece cranks (especially on older BMX and dept-store bikes), but this design is becoming obsolete. <S> So if you get a donor bike that doesn't have a one-piece crank, then you should be able to find a compatible BB at any place that sells bike parts.
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So, if you can fully assemble the donor bike, you just cut it in pieces, take the parts you want and assemble the bamboo bike with the same parts. One thing to think about with bonding, if you plan to use carbon fibre you will need to do some form of barrier layer to protect the steel, otherwise overtime the carbon and steel will have a chemical reaction that causes corrosion.
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Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon? At the cafe stop on my local Saturday ride a few of the guys we chatting and one guy asked an other if he was riding a compact drivetrain. The other guy objected loudly and they then joked with other members of the group suggesting they were riding compacts. Why would the notion of riding a compact drivetrain attract such a response? <Q> While Machismo answers the question asked, the reason why there is that reaction is mainly a lack of understanding about how and why compact cranks exist. <S> But what many people miss is the rear ratio changes. <S> The race standard for many years was 53/12. <S> That is, the hardest gear, made up of the largest tooth count in the front, and the smallest in the back, was a 53 tooth front chain ring paired with a 12 tooth rear cog. <S> A few years back, Shimano started making an 11 tooth rear cog. <S> It was originally intended for pro racers and time trialists. <S> Somebody got out the calculator, and realized that with that 11 tooth rear cog now available, you could decrease the size of the front rings, and get the same gear ratio, or slightly faster . <S> That decreased front ring size allowed better climbing ratios when paired with the large cogs on the cassette, but also maintained the high gear speed racers are used to. <S> Someone riding a properly setup compact crank, actually is pushing a harder, faster gear than the 53/12 "standard". <S> That said, if you pair a 53 with the 11 tooth, it will be faster yet, but not often do you find the legs to push that combo. <S> I've included gear inch charts for both, so that you can see for yourself how it works out. <S> If you are not aware, gear inches are a comparison to the effective diameter of a direct drive wheel, when gear advantage is accounted for. <A> Pedalling with compact cranks is supposed to be easier. <S> So people who take great pride in how strong they are and how fast they can go <S> don't like when you're able to do the same with (apparently) less effort. <S> and it hurts their ego. <S> It's pretty much a <S> "I'm manlier than you" thing, like "I use brute force to be fast, while you needed to have a mechanical advantage". <S> Add to that the fact humans don't like change <S> The blog <S> Why not tri? <S> has a nice little article about Compact vs Standard. <A> Machismo. <S> Compacts are naturally geared lower than standards. <S> Some people (incorrectly) see lower gearing as a sign of weakness. <S> Some of those same people will serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't. <S> Which gearing you go with is purely a matter of overall strength and riding style. <S> Neither one is the wrong decision in the right situation. <S> I've done races before where in the description it has read "compact gearing highly recommended. <S> " That's a fair warning to heed. <A> I think that compact (lower gears) supposedly would imply the person isn't strong enough to spin higher gears, or actually needs that low gears to be able to climb properly. <S> In any case, I think most people doesn't even know there is a difference on crank chainring sizes, not to mention they could very well prefer one over another. <S> I for one ride internal gear hub, and I have one 46t and one 39t chainring. <S> When I feel fit and wanting to speed up, I install the 46t. <S> When I am more lazy, or more feel more tired for a longer period, I install back the 39t. <S> This scorn stuff, or "weakness" stuff, is all inside people's head, I would say. <A> I have no experience with the egos of aspiring cyclists, but I can note a (small) technical difference <S> The effect is complicated to describe, but it may be thought of qualitatively as the end of each successive link meshing onto the sprocket whipping around and causing an oscillation in the slack side of the chain. <S> This effect dissipates the majority of drivetrain energy lost through the chain. <S> The magnitude of the effect is nonlinear (roughly proportional to the square of angle of articulation) <S> so the difference is negligible at the chainring, but there is a non-negligible difference between 11T and 12T on the rear. <S> It's something like 0.4% higher theoretical drivetrain efficiency for the 12T. <A> Yep, a combination of maschisimo and most importantly a sad case of "It's not what the pros do". <S> Yes, you'll never see a pro racer on a compact, and rarely one on aluminum wheels at that, but somehow a lot of guys love to hate it. <S> Despite the fact that as the gearing post about mentions, you're rarely even in gears that make a difference in all but an out and out sprint. <S> Funny thing though, show up to a group ride and someone may laugh at a compact, yet show up with cyclocross gearing (like a 46/38) and suddenly you're he-man? <A> Insecurity and attitude. <S> As witnessed in answers to this question, the very presence of a compact crank leads to lectures about how pro racers can ever use regular crank and ranting about how regular crank users "serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't. <S> " This gets old pretty fast.
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Compacts came about to alleviate the high gearing of a standard crankset's gearing without inheriting the troubles that come with a triple. and it's in our nature to frown upon new things trying to go against old "standards". Obviously, you can look at it and say to give us better climbing (easy) gears. You can compare to being passed by electric bike while climbing, some people just feel the person on the e-bike doesn't "deserve" to be that fast A sprocket with a lower tooth count will require the chain to bend more sharply as it engages with the teeth.
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Building a road bike I've seen a lot of answers here about building a fixie specifically, but I'm looking to build up a road bike. I currently have a Surly Pacer frame and fork, a Richie handlebar and stem, and that's about it. Can anyone recommend a series of videos or a website that would help me navigate some of this? I know I will probably have to have the help of a professional eventually, but I want to learn as much as I can before that. I plan to go to the swap meet that our cycling club holds every February for used parts, and I want to go in educated. Any advice is helpful. I've done some searching around but haven't found anything that looked particularly good. <Q> I don't know any videos off the top of my head, however you may wish to consider buying a book instead. <S> Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance. <S> I have the mtb version of it and it is a great resource for everything about bike maintenance and building a frame up into a rideable bike. <S> http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php <A> Park Tools are the biggest maker of bicycle specific tools I know and the repair section of their website <S> is pretty good and covers a lot of what is in their Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair. <S> Surly themselves have some good info in their spews . <S> One that may be relevant to you is Care and feeding of your steel frame . <S> He can be good for some little niggly details though. <S> I'd try the Park repair site first. <S> It definitely pays to have the right tools, but tools can be expensive, particularly for a one-off job. <S> Park aren't the only maker and can sometimes be more expensive, so shop around. <S> Not sure where you are <S> but there is a famous one in SF <S> The Bike Kitchen , and in my home town there is The Nunnery . <S> Usually you can borrow tools, get advice or help, there may be classes and so on. <S> Try a search for Bicycle co-op <S> [your home town]. <S> Good luck! <A> Two options, first, if you want to really learn to a pro level, check out United Bicycle Institute , or a similar mechanics school. <S> You will have to attend in person, but they are worth it, if you are the kind of person who wants to know everything you can. <S> Usually around $1000-1200 USD for a 2 week course. <S> 2nd, Barnett's , which is one of those schools, offered their textbooks for sale, and now also has a CD version of the Barnett's Manual with all their data related with hyperlinks. <S> FTR: I went to UBI, and found it helpful. <S> I am not affiliated with any of these companies. <A> Most of it is just bolting stuff together; if you know what a bike is supposed to look like, it's pretty self-explanatory. <S> Here are the areas that aren't self-explanatory, and require some specialized knowledge and/or tools. <S> You'll get more useful information if you ask specific questions about these items. <S> Headset installation. <S> Brake adjustment. <S> Shifter adjustment. <S> Bottom bracket installation. <S> Chain installation. <S> Cassette removal (installation is easy - <S> it just screws on - but you then need special tools to remove it). <S> Wheel truing and building. <S> (Definitely not for beginners - but if you just buy new ready-made wheels, you won't have to worry about it.)
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One other option if you don't want to buy a whole shop full of tools is to look around for a bike co-op. Sheldon Brown is another oft quoted resource, but it may not be that easy to find exactly what you're looking for there, or get a good overview.
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Runny nose while biking Now that the weather's cold, my nose gets plugged up after about a mile and inevitably some runs down my throat and I have to pull over and spit. I feel like stopping all the time is probably confusing to the cars behind me and seek a better solution. What's the best (safest?) way to deal with this? <Q> Well, this probably sounds gross <S> and I'm kind of reluctant to say it, <S> but I'm able to blow the snot out of my nose without hitting myself or my bike. <S> I try to only do it when there's no one around, but occasionally that isn't possible. <S> Basically, I turn my head <S> so my nostrils are towards the ground and exhale forcibly through my nose. <S> I'm not sure it will work for everyone--perhaps I have remarkably straight nasal passages? <A> There's no great way. <S> And to a degree simply having cold air blowing against the face around the sinuses creates the problem. <S> Some people will experience this worse than others. <S> You can try using some sort of scarf or maybe a surgical mask over your nose to sort of warm the air going in. <S> The problem with this, of course, is that if your nose is running you can't wipe it without removing the scarf/mask. <S> Or you can use various drugs (OTC decongestants and nasal sprays) to try to control it. <A> Yeesh! <S> Why stop? <S> Spit down and to the side. <S> Keep going. <S> Main thing is to avoid spitting on the cyclist(s) behind you. <S> I really don't know why this is a problem. <S> Common sense usually works well. <S> 2 Common Sense Rules Don't spit or blow snot on the folks behind you. <S> (Such as a pace line or other commuters) <S> On to peeing, I guess... <S> Out in the country, find a tree and go behind it...in the city, find a bathroom at Starbucks or whatnot.. <A> Keep your mouth closed when you breathe. <S> Holding the tongue against the roof of the mouth can make it easier to keep those passages warm and humid while you breathe through your nose. <A> I like Fisherman's cause it lasts quite long in the mouth - takes me 10 minutes to "eat" it. <A> Blow it away out of your nose while riding, to the side; Carry a cloth (handkerchief) to wipe your nose thereafter, so that it doesn't continue to be uncomfortable; If you come to a full stop, clean as much as you can with the two previous manoeuvers, so as to increase mucus-free time. <A> I guess I'm on my own not wanting to see people, whether pedestrians or cyclists, flobbing out phlegm. <S> Take one of @Idigas' Fisherman's friends and use old school cotton hankies. <S> Even one-handed should be fine in many places (possibly not whilst running a red). <S> (Also not good is the sound of phlegm snorting.) <A> I have the same problem, which I solve by blowing to the side, and then wiping my nose on my shirt sleeve. <S> When my wife found out what I was doing, she crafted a velcro "snot rag" that wraps around my forearm. <S> Works well and easier to launder. <A> A lot of gloves designed for running or biking have a little bit of fabric on the index and thumb specifically for wiping snot off. <S> You may want to consider using one of these, such as this one .
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The main problem is that inhaled cold air causes an automatic reaction in the nasal passages to create more mucous. Avoid spitting or blowing snot on public places such as sidewalks or bike paths, etc. Fisherman's friend or some other strong pepermint candy is a common remedy against such annoyances.
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What am I supposed to do when my chain falls off? It happened when I "stepped on it" (on an empty residential street). It left the chain on the road. What tool(s) and parts should I have had with me, to fix it? It was replaced (new) two months ago, since when they also had the back wheel off to replace its brake pads. When I lubed it recently I noticed that one of the links seemed loose, but I didn't want to take the time to take it back to the LBS (which is now on reduced less convenient winter hours). <Q> A chain tool (aka "chain breaker") for sure. <S> Many multi-tools include one. <S> Depending on the chain, also a quick link (they come by many names) or special pin. <S> Basic process is use the chain tool to remove a pin or two so that the mangled chain bits can be removed, then reassemble to a shorter chain. <S> Try to leave a pin still in one outer plate; it's a lot easier. <S> When you reassemble it, do it on the bike threaded through all the derailer bits properly. <S> I've done this roadside before. <S> Took me 5-10 minutes, some cursing, a little fiddling with the tool, and ended with very greasy hands. <S> A few of those minutes were waiting for a crosswalk signal <S> so I could retrieve the chain. <S> Make sure to avoid the big/big gear combo or even your big chainring entirely, until you've replaced the chain. <S> And replace the chain right away. <A> As a recommendation find an old piece of chain and practic,practice, practice. <S> This assures you understand how your chain tool works and the process will go much smoother while doing it in the rain,while late for work or in the dark. <A> I keep a few short pieces of old chains in a plastic bag, and I also (now that I use SRAM chains) <S> keep several old "repair links" in the bag. <S> If you don't have the repair links, when you split the old chain (into 3-5 link bits) drive the pins not quite all the way out on both ends, so that both ends are able to be reconnected with the chain tool. <S> It's also helpful to have a short piece of wire to hold the ends of the chain together while you join them. <S> (Rubber gloves are for wusses. <S> ;) )
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You need a chain tool and some spare links.
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What is this bike tool? I've bought a saddle bag with a set of bike tools; stuff like alan keys, puncture repair kits, spanners etc. There's this one tool (well two but they screw together) that I have trouble recognising. I know for sure it's not part of the installation of the saddle bag. It also didn't come with any instructions. <Q> You can then put an hex key into the twisty bit at the right hand end. <A> Yep, a chain tool, or "chain breaker". <S> They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. <S> You should note that a given width chain needs a specific chain tool, so the one you have may not work well with your chain. <S> And never just get a chain tool and trust it to work (and be workable by you) without trying it first on some scrap chain of the appropriate size. <S> In addition to being the wrong size or simply too "cute" to work (often the case with "multi-tool" versions), the punch pin can be worn/cracked to the point that it no longer cleanly presses the chain pin. <A> Yep, chain repair tool. <S> But I will disagree with Moab's comment. <S> Though it is hard to judge from the angle of the pictures, this chain tool looks a little weird. <S> On most chain tools one of the two ridges (usually the upper one closest to the handle or screw) is thicker than the other. <S> This is because the chain is set on the upper ridge to loosen a stiff link once the pin has been pushed into place with the chain link sitting on the lower ridge. <S> The below utube video is a good lesson on using a chain tool to repair a chain: <S> One thing not emphasized on the video that should be. <S> When breaking the chain in two, leave the pin sticking up just half a millimeter or so under the roller (you will have to GENTLY twist chain to pull it apart) <S> - this makes it easy to insure that the chain will be properly aligned when the new pin is pushed down. <S> Also, it is best only to only break a chain at a particular pin only once - <S> if you do it more than once, that pin will enlarge the hole and never fit snugly together again. <S> Shimano recommends that pins on their chains should never be re-used. <S> however, YMMV. <S> The practical way to tell if it is the right size tool for your chain is fairly simple. <S> Set a chain link with the lower ridge in between two rollers (the cylindrical part of the chain). <S> The chain should fot easily, but straight with a minimal of wiggle, so that the chain does not twist or bend when the screw is turned and the pin is pushed downward. <S> If you have any difficulty at all keeping the chain straight and at a perfect right (perpendicular) angle to the pin when the pin is being pushed down, it is the wrong size tool, the tool is designed for a newer, narrower chain than yours. <S> If the chain does not easily fit onto the ridge, don't force it. <S> In this case most likely you are probably trying to put a newer narrow chain (9 or 10 sprockets on the rear wheel of the bike) on a tool made back in the day when chains were 8, 7, 6 or (if you are a really old) 5 sprockets on the rear wheel were standard.
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Its a Chain tool , the long bit should screw into the back (bottom side in the pic) of the other bit to provide a handle.
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What harm results from riding with a stretched chain? Due to sheer laziness, my maintenance amounts to an annual trip to the LBS. After moving, my new LBS suggested that I replace my chain immediately, before it destroys the drive train. What they didn't mention was that it already had, so I needed a new cassette within a week, because the chain slipped under pressure. The next year, they checked the cassette before recommending a chain replacement, and it was already getting worn, so I decided to stay with the current chain at least as long as it takes to pay for a new cassette in the chains I'm not purchasing every thousand miles. At about three thousand miles a year, it shouldn't take all that long. Now, though, I'm concerned that I might be causing more problems than just cassette wear. Might I have to replace the chain ring, too? Am I setting myself up for other potentially expensive problems? Is the chain likely to break in the middle of a ride within the next year or two? <Q> This is always a controversial topic, with some people arguing on both sides, but in my opinion you should replace your chain when it reaches the official "worn" state (as indicated by a chain stretch gauge). <S> If you let the chain go the sprockets develop a "hook" and will begin "sucking" the chain. <S> In addition, shifting performance will suffer. <S> If a chain is replaced when it first reaches "worn" status, without letting it go too long, the sprockets will not have taken a "set" to the stretched chain and reasonably good drivetrain performance will be retained. <S> You will of course eventually need to replace your cluster and chainrings. <S> My experience is that you need a new cluster about every five chains, and new chainrings about every two clusters. <S> Generally when cluster/chainring wear reaches a critical point things go to pot pretty rapidly in terms of shifting problems, slipping, etc. <A> The worst problem I face when waiting too long to replace a chain is that a new chain will skip badly over the worn sprockets. <S> In my experience, it has a lot to do with the kind of terrain you ride <S> (on- vs. off-road), the amount of rain/mud/snow you take, and if your have full fenders or not. <S> If you do mountain bike, 500 miles is sometimes enough to need a chain replacement. <S> Now if you ride only asphalt, use full fenders, and take proper care on cleaning and lubing, you might go over 3000 miles without much problem. <S> I agree with a previous answer, it takes three to five chains to need a cluster replacement if you care well, but the chainrings use to last much longer to me than two clusters. <S> I think it is because, when you install a new chain, the wear pattern on the teeth (both the sprockets and the chainrings) tend to get back to normal <S> (wear occurs at the base of the teeth, instead of their tops). <S> Since the rings wear much less than the sprockets, they go back to normal more easily, and have a much lesser tendency to skip. <S> It is worth mentioning that I had never experienced a chain braking because it was worn out, so the problem is not dangerous, just expensive (because you have to replace two or three parts instead of one), not to mention the bad ride quality due to worn-out drivetrain. <A> Not really an answer, but too long for a comment. <S> I've gone the other way <S> - my second hand road bike has worn/munched big and middle chainrings, and the cassette is pretty worn too. <S> Chain is unstretched with surface corrosion, and the master link popped under load yesterday. <S> So my plan is to run the entire transmission into the ground, and buy new rings/cassette/chain/jockey wheels all at once. <S> There's no point replacing one thing with new when other parts are approaching terminal. <S> A road chain is good for ~3000 <S> km <S> / 2000 miles before it starts wearing into the cassette, whereas most chainrings are good for "the life of the bike" or 20,000 km A worn cassette and worn chain can do more than 3000 km, but they need replacing together. <S> MTBs off road will wear quicker. <S> I log every ride with strava, so it will be interesting to see how long this setup can go for before <S> shifting and chain jump get too bad.
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Failing to replace a worn chain results in more cluster wear, more chainring wear, and an increased risk of both shifting difficulty and thrown/broken chains. 1500 miles will for sure damage your sprockets permanently.
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How to Sight a Chain Line I just finished building a single speed bike and I think my chain line might be a little off. Is there a tool or trick to sighting the chain line? <Q> You should be able to "sight" this fairly well. <S> Get close to the front sprocket and align your eye such that you're just looking down one side of the front sprocket towards the rear. <S> Moving your head back and forth sideways very slightly the same side of the rear sprocket should flicker into and out of view. <S> Or you can use a long metal ruler, placed against the side of the sprockets. <S> With perfect alignment (which isn't really necessary) the ruler will fit flat against both sprockets simultaneously. <A> Then measure from the center of the seat tube to the center of the chain around the chainring. <S> Voila, chainline measurements. <A> I've always just eyed up the alignment on single speeds. <S> Look at the chain from behind and above. <S> As with anything it took some practice to do right. <S> If the alignment is too far off it will be noticeable. <A> My preferred method is the following: With the bike upright (left handlebar end against a wall), with one hand apply some pedalling pressure to the right pedal, while it is pointing to the front. <S> With the other hand, press a straight ruler (with length preferrably around 1 foot or more) against the upper part of the chainring, making sure it touches the ring in two points of its outer circumference (one ahead of the bottom bracket, and other behind). <S> This way you can be sure the ruler is aligned with the chainring plane. <S> With the chain tensioned by the pressure on the pedal and the ruler as described, look from above to the alignment between the chain and the ruler: <S> If the back part of the ruler hides under the chain, the sprocket is further from centerline than the chainring. <S> If there is a gap between the rear part of the ruler and the chain, chainring is further than centerline relative to the sprocket. <S> If the ruler runs along the chain in a rather parallel fashion, the alignment is fine. <S> It is worth noting that a perfect alignment is not strict necessary if the error is, say, less than half the chain width (I am being arbitrary here). <S> Also, this procedure just assure alignment to the chainring plane, since the sprocket could be rotated. <S> This happens if a badly dished wheel requires the rear axle to be SLIGHTLY vertically rotated in order to get the wheel aligned inside the frame, but I don't think this would matter much unless it is too extreme. <S> In my experience, this alignment is meant mostly to avoid premature/asymmetric wearing of the drivetrain, and also to prevent the chain from falling off if it stretches too much before being retightened. <S> Hope it helps. <A> The best way is to measure the chain line distance at the chain ring and then measure the chain line at the rear cog. <S> You require to measure sizes on your bike as accurately as possible and do some calculations. <S> This site explains how to do it for geared bikes but the same principals apply. <S> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line <S> Hope that helps.
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Using a straight ruler (a small flat metal one is easiest), measure from the centerline of the rear hub to the center of the chain around the cog. If you don't notice an abnormal wearing pattern even if the alignment is not perfect, I would think that's just fine.
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Should I Get the Paint Job Touched Up My wife's bike recently got scraped up and the paint got scratched down to the frame. It's an alloy frame. Should she be concerned about rust or any kind of damage? If so, do we need to get it repainted? There are about three scratches, each about half the size of a dime. <Q> Chromoly can rust. <S> Aluminum usually doesn't unless you're riding in the ocean. <S> Cheapest fix is probably some automotive touch-up paint; sand / clean the area (scuff the surrounding paint up a little), apply a coat, wet sand, repeat. <S> Won't be perfect but it'll protect the underlying metal from rusting. <S> Of course, if you want that perfect "unblemished" look you're probably going to have to plump for a professional (read: <S> take your bike completely apart, sandblast frame, re-paint, put all components back on). <S> Unless you're looking for an excuse to get a completely amazing custom paint job. <S> At which point I'd recommend finding a good powder coat shop; my mountain bike's (chromoly frame) is powder coated and has held up really, really well over the years. <A> I have had good luck with hobby paints. <S> Most are enamal so they are durable,cost is generally under $2.00 U.S. for a 1/2 ounce bottle. <S> You custom match your color by mixing colors in small amounts. <S> My buddy has a Diamondback <S> his color is three drops of blue with one drop of black. <S> You can experiment to find the right combinations. <S> Always allow the test sample to dry as the color may change,this can be speeded up by usung a hair dryer on low setting. <S> Lightly sand the damaged area with very fine sandpaper,wipe it with a solvent <S> (rubbing alcohol works fine).Apply the paint with an artist brush. <S> If the area was the result of cables rubbing cover it with a patch of clear chainstay protecting tape. <A> I have a powder-coated Brompton, that recently had small areas (~2mm) of the finish rubbed down to the steel by cable housings. <S> To deal with this (the area was spotless, the cables had the steel polished bright), I just applied touch-up paint, and let it dry for days. <S> I will smooth it with 1000-grit sandpaper, then apply helicopter tape once this is done. <S> As others have noted, if the frame is aluminum, it's primarily an aesthetic choice. <A>
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A cheap solution to stop the metal below the scratch corroding is to coat the scratches with clear / colourless nail varnish. But for steel-framed bikes, it's a necessity.
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Where is the proper location to measure the tube size? I need to replace a tube in my bike. I know there are many tire sizes. I bought 26', assuming that my bike was that size, and realized when I got home that I didn't even know where to measure from. What is the correct location to measure in order to get the correct size of tubes? <Q> It will have the size embossed on the sidewall -- <S> either inches diameter & width (like 26x1.5) or metric sizes (like 700C-32). <S> Tubes generally are made to fit a range of sizes. <S> Eg, a single tube may fit both 27" and 700C tires, and 1.25-1.5 inches or 32-38 mm wide. <A> If you still have the old tire, then the easiest method is to check the markings on the tire. <S> But if you don't, then you have to measure the rim's bead seat diameter (see illustration). <S> Here are the most common sizes: <S> 622 <S> mm : 700c, or 29 inch. <S> Common on road bikes and some mountain bikes. <S> 630 <S> mm : 27 inch. <S> Used to be common on road bikes, now obsolete. <S> 559 mm : 26 inch. <S> Most mountain bikes, some hybrids. <S> Source: Sheldon Brown. <S> See his article for more obscure sizes, and an explanation of what it all means. <A> As a side note tires sizes on older bikes were not standardized. <S> Not all 26inch tires from different bike makers will interchange. <S> A 26x13/8" will not interchange with a 26x1.90 tire, the tubes however will. <S> Always reference the size on the side wall of the tire rather than trying to measure the wheel diameter.
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Look at the tire. Use a tube that says it's for that size.
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U-lock stuck on a bike Some time ago, I stuck a U-lock on my bicycle for safe keeping, on the top tube below the seat. It's annoying when riding, and I'd like a way to remove it. I've lost the key some time ago, or I would have removed it that way. Preserving the lock is optional. What would you suggest? <Q> I figured out a way to do it which was actually fairly easy. <S> This only worked because it was in my garage, trying to steal someone's bike like this would be crazy... <S> The first thing that happened was the plastic broke away. <S> I kept pounding on it, until the lock just fell apart. <S> It took about a minute... <S> Note to self, don't buy a cheap lock next time... <A> Ideas: <S> If you still have any of the original paperwork or packaging, look for a lock code/number, you might be able to order replacement keys. <S> Take it to a bike shop and ask. <S> They might have the right tools. <S> They likely do this every once in a while A machine shop is sure to have tools capable of doing this The local police department will have the tools or be able to refer you to somebody that does (they have to deal with removing abandoned bikes) <S> An angle grinder, or other rotary cutting tool with a metal-cutting disk Hacksaw (electric preferably. <S> Maybe an extra blade) <S> Big bolt cutters <S> could you close the lock without the key? <S> Cut away any rubber and slide a shim made from an aluminum can down to release the latch <S> Is it a cheaply made lock? <S> Might be able to just beat on it with a hammer until the latching mechanism falls apart a small car jack. <S> Thieves also use leverage based attacks, but I believe those risk damaging the bike. <S> And, of course, having proper proof that the bicycle is yours is a good idea, too, since all those attempts to defeat a lock look suspicious. <A> A bit late now, but for the future it's worth knowing that it's possible to order a replacement key for most locks. <S> You'll need the serial number which is usually on the key or might be separately in the packaging (it's not written on the lock itself for obvious reasons), so you need to make a note of that somewhere and keep it in a safe place. <A> We all lock ourselves out of something at some point. <S> At times it can be useful to respect friends 'with links to the criminal fraternity': cheaper with fewer questions asked when it comes to getting cars opened, D-locks removed and house windows opened. <S> @Daniel R Hicks See this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hsM88Wx8QQ Picked with a biro in a matter of seconds, not even 'Kryptonite'. <S> Some locks used to only come with half a dozen or so key variations so the security was assumed anyway. <S> With manufacturing outsourced to the Far East any brand, no matter how 'reputable' can have locks on sale that are not really that clever. <S> Sounds <S> like you actually had a 'fake D-lock'. <S> Even the big makes foist these on the public, where the barrel is some bent tin inside a chunk of plastic. <S> Those can be opened with a moderately sizeable piece of wood. <S> Even if it was a real D-lock, have a look at how it would respond to the disc-cutter: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XTYEcQAurs <S> What is that, 5 seconds? <A> This works with almost any type of lock: Cost $0. <S> (optional) lubricate the lock with all purpose oil or graphite powder. <S> the lighter the oil the better. <S> get a similar key that goes in. <S> just find a friend with a ulock that still has the spare key. <S> get the spare key and file down the tallest teeth so that the key is a series of the lowest teeth insert key and keep applying pressure as if you were going to turn it to open the lock, and releasing the pressure. <S> keep doing this over and over during next step. <S> get a small hammer and gently knock the key. <S> as if nailing it INTO the lock. <S> several times. <S> keep doing it. <S> does not loose your temper and apply force. <S> gently. <S> eventually, the key will turn! <S> the Technic is called Bump Key . <S> Bonus information: lock-picking is a nerd past time with several tournaments in the hacking community. <S> If you want to learn more look for the MIT guide to lock-picking . <S> Yes, that MIT.
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Most u-locks lock on one side and connect with an L on the other, so bending the U open will release it For the tool based approaches, I would be very tempted to work out some way with a vice or two to hold the lock and bike steady, to minimize the chances of damaging the bike. I took a hammer, and pounded on the bar.
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Do clipless pedals that can have toeclips exist? I know there are several clipless that can also be used as platform pedals. But i'm looking for something that can also have a toeclip. I'm dreaming with something like those: PLUS this half toe clip: Even more ideal would be if it wasn't permanently attached so i could carry it with the bike and just clip it there if i'm w/out my bike shoes. Does anything like this exists? know of any try/success history about someone hacking it together? Bonus question: if i find a way to attach the half toe clip on the deore XT, maybe 1,5cm more forward than my shoes stay when clipped... would that work? or am i missing any obvious reason it wouldn't? <Q> There are pedals <S> that have a cleat clip on one side and a traditional platform pedal on the other side. <S> You could attach the clip to the platform side and use the cleat side when you're riding with cycling shoes. <S> You might have problems when you're clipped in because the toe clip might hang too low and catch the road when you're leaning into corners. <A> The guy who sponsors my team at the Dick Lane Velodrome converts standard Speedplay Zero pedals to have toe clips . <S> You might be able to contact him to have him make some for you. <A> A wide variety of pedals exist with toe clips on one side and the "clipless" clip on the other side. <S> Generally more of the full strap variety toe clips, though some may be able to have them swapped out for the style in your picture. <S> Mostly you'll see this arrangement with the SPD style pedals, though. <S> One problem you'll experience is that the toe clip will tend to drag on the ground in certain situations. <S> Mostly intended for when you use street shoes. <S> I have a pair of these, though I've never used them much. <A> It is much better to get a pair of your favorite clipless and a pair of your favorite toe-clip pedals and then just swap them out a pedal wrench when needed. <S> It only takes minute and you don't need to torque the pedal too hard. <A> You used to be able to get Insteps for Look pedals. <S> These were plastic toe-clips with moulded-in cleats, which used standard straps. <S> The "stand height" was a bit higher than using the Look shoes, but they were ideal for short trips. <S> There is a similar product on the market now, but it places your foot about half an inch higher than normal, so is rubbish. <A> Think i've found one http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry/2091942712/in/photostream/
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You also can (or at least could, at one time) purchase adapters that clip into clipless pedals and provide a toe clip mounting. for SPDs, I can find nothing.
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What affordable rear brake can I get with nut/bolt rather than Allen Key? I am looking for recommendations for a rear brake for a road brake. The problem is that I can see plenty of options for the newer 'Allen Key' style but not the older 'nut/bolt' style. I also want just the rear brake rather than a set, drop is 'normal' for a road bike rather than extra short/long reach. I am not too keen on going second hand because I want a nice new brake complete with pads. Just to clarify, I am after the second of these two types: Thanks. <Q> Brake calipers designed for recessed nuts on the fork crown will typically have enough exposed thread to function as an externally-nutted bolt when used through the rear brake bridge. <A> You're aware of the fact that as long as you know what the thread pitch on the bolt is that you can just buy one with a hex / philips / security / <S> whatever head, right? <S> Pull the bolt (try and remember where all the various springs, washers, etc. landed when you pulled the bolt out) and take it down to your local Fastenal / OSSCO bolt / whatever and just get a replacement with whatever head strikes your fancy (if it's pan head or flat head you may have some issues getting a hex head bolt to fit because of the inside taper). <S> Or, if you have a thread pitch gauge, you could open your McMaster-Carr catalog and order it from them. <S> Of course, without knowing the exact alloy the bolts are made of you're probably voiding any manufacturer's warranty by replacing a functional section of the brakes. <S> But, hey - if your brakes fail you could always just ram into a tree head first, right? <S> That'll stop you. <S> I, too, am curious as to why you're adverse to an allen head - the hex shape creates a better (more points of contact) grip and it's a standard tool. <S> They're easy to toss into your saddle pouch or pocket of a bike jersy, too. <S> And it's a lot easier to torque them down to a manufacturer's specification than a philips head is. <A> The recessed mount isn't a new thing. <S> It's been standard on road bikes since the mid-1980's. <S> Either way, Harris Cyclery has several nutted models available for the situation you describe. <S> You're relegated to brands like Tektro, as the major component manufacturers cater to recessed mountings.
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Get any recessed-bolt front brake and use your nutted hardware with it.
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What is the easiest and quickest way to pump up a tyre? I find that I need to pump up my tyres at least weekly and am looking for how to make this quick and easy. So what is the easiest and quickest method of pumping up a bike tyre? As an example, I found this device recently. (forwarded to the best part) <Q> If you're at home, use a floor pump. <S> They are very easy to use and have a gauge so you can measure the pressure. <S> When you're on the road, the quickest and easiest way to get you back on the road is to use CO2 cannisters. <S> They are not that cheap though and the CO2 will leak out of the tube faster than air (mostly N2), requiring topping up over the next few days. <S> More information is available on Wikipedia <A> If you're at home, I recommend an air compressor , there's no easier or quicker way than this. <S> Usually these have pressure gauges, and you can even (with some accessories you can) control the max. <S> pressure, <S> just press and it stops when done. <S> If on the road, the easiest way (and also the quickest) is: <S> If near a gas station, use their air compressor (if available) <S> Otherwise, use a portable air solution (the quickest is the CO2, but mind the cost of the refills) <S> , there are really nice hand pumps also,not the quickest, but easy IMO. <S> Finally, and knowing that in my case I just need to inflate every three weeks, I would recommend getting newer inner tubes, maybe the ones you're using are loosing air quicker than normal? <S> (I mean, inflating every week could be too much, although I understand if you really want them to be tip-top :) <A> Answer: <S> Mini-Pump in combination with a Track Pump. <S> Read on for my experiences of 'Cyclaire' pumps... <S> I purchased a 'Cyclaire' portable pump as I genuinely believed it would be the answer to all of my puncture/tyre care problems. <S> It came with a neat bag that I could use to carry it on the bike and worked perfectly. <S> However, on a day to day basis I carried a mini-pump and over time I forgot to dust off the 'Cyclaire' pump, to eventually never even think about taking it out for longer rides. <S> If I was on tour with a group <S> then I might just dig it out as it does have a gauge and high pressures can be achieved. <S> This could be useful to maintain tyre pressures 2+ weeks in to an 'expedition'. <S> As it is, I recommend a small plastic mini-pump for the road and a track pump for back home. <S> The trick with the minipump is to get one where there are no extra gadget features, e.g. gauge, 2-way motion, telescopic barrel or any of that nonsense. <S> These features can make the pump liable to rattle apart, rendering it useless when you need it. <S> The simpler (but not necessarily cheaper) pump just keeps on giving. <S> The portable pump only has to get you home, you can ride on 20 p.s.i. <S> if that is all the minipump can give, back home you can then get the rest of it in effortlessly with a gauge to keep it correctly inflated. <S> Maybe the 'Cycleaire' strays from 'keep it simple', as does the CO2 cannister. <S> A workshop compressor is nice, but, unless you work in a bike shop and need one on the whole time, then you have to faff with it and wait for its cylinder to charge. <S> For that reason, stick with the track pump (with gauge) and plain-as-possible mini-pump for on the road. <S> If you really want a 'Cyclaire' pump then find a suitable scenario - either the long tour or, if you commute, inside your desk drawer. <A> Fast, accurate, easy, can handle any pressure. <S> I've never tried the CO2 inflaters <S> but I assume they work. <S> Most mini-pumps suck -- too little volume for fat tires and too little pressure for skinny tires -- <S> so for on the road I'd recommend a full-sized frame pump. <A> Another Option would be to use the air pumps for the cars by your local gas station. <S> I really like this option, because the pumps there have enough pressure for most mountain- and citybike tires. <S> If you have a Schrader valve, the air pumps will connect directly. <S> If you have a Presta valve, you can use a converter. <S> It weighs like one gram and will fit anywhere. <S> Eg, duct tape one to your seat rail. <S> Also, at least in the city where I live, there are gas stations all around. <S> Be careful thought, these pumps fill up a bike tire pretty fast! <S> So if your pass a gas station on your commute, this could be even the fastest option. <A> It really comes down to fastest. <S> Try benchmarking against a flat car tire. <S> This is a high volume, low pressure problem, which while different from a bike tires (low volume, higher pressure) is a good benchmark of speed. <S> It is actually an interesting challenge to pump a totally flat car tire up with a small frame pump, a floor pump, or a CO2 cart. <S> Alas, a compressor takes all the fun out of it,
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While the question is directly about easiest/fastest way to pump up a tire, it is worth noting that all the above methods work. Definitely a floor pump (with built-in gauge) for regular at-home inflations.
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Do brake cables become more elastic with time? I bought a used bike a few months ago, and I've noticed a drastic reduction in brake power. At first, I was easily able to lock-up the rear wheel while squeezing the brake lever only half-way to the handle bar. Now, I can squeeze the brake lever all the way to the handle bar and I'm experiencing negligible stopping power. I've shortened the brake cable at the caliper several times, and it's now as tight as I can make it without causing it to close slightly and rub the rim. Squeezing the lever slightly causes the brake to close and contact the rim, but I can continue squeezing all the way to the handle bar and still not apply any real stopping power. It feels as though the cable has become more elastic with time, like the whole rear brake system is softer to the point of being nearly useless. Is this "normal"? Is it an indication that it's time to replace the cable? Is replacing the cable likely to make my brakes more responsive? Update Upon closer inspection, my brake pads are worn down to plastic-on-metal; there is no rubber left at all. This is very likely the cause for my perceived soft braking, and definitely the cause of the lack of brake power. <Q> They're made of twisted strands of metal, and metal isn't generally known for its elasticity. <S> This sounds to me like your brake pads are shot. <S> When they become spongy and glazed, you can squeeze your brake lever quite far and feel like little pressure is being applied. <S> Get thee to a bikeshoppery. <A> Cables will stretch a small, but finite amount. <S> The do not flex to the level you are describing. <S> That would break them first. <S> Brake levers, calipers, and pads can allow some spring effect into the system, but that typically doesn't creep in over time. <S> It usually is a function of poor product design, or poor setup. <S> I would bet that 2 things are happening to cause the situation you describe: Your brake pads are wearing down causing more movement in your brake lever. <S> Your rims (the section of your wheels that the brakes touch) are working out of true, which prevents you from readjusting the brake to its proper distance from said rim, without it rubbing on the rim. <S> If I am correct, it will not rub on the rim evenly at every point on the rim, but will touch it one or two (or more) places, and the first step in getting your brakes readjusted is to have your LBS true and tension your wheels. <A> Brake pads, when first set up, should hit the wheel rim square-on in the vertical plane and almost square on in the horizontal. <S> I say 'almost' because you ideally need a millimeter of gap at the back to make sure the brakes don't squeal. <S> The brake calipers move the brake block in an arc and, as the brakes wear down through use, they no longer meet the wheel square on. <S> Hence they get to feel spongy, even if they were perfectly setup when new. <S> In so doing you notice the 'sponginess' in the system more than you did when the brakes were new. <S> To mitigate against this try to clean your wheel rims every time you have dirt showing on them, particularly after a rainy spell. <S> This will reduce the contaminants on the rim that get into the brake block. <S> As well as having more use out of your brake blocks your rims will last longer and your bike will be a lot cleaner. <S> There are plenty of posh bike cleaning things, if you want to quickly and effectively clean your wheels without investing in these bike specific cleaners, get a bucket of warm water and add a small amount of washing powder (for clothes) to it. <S> Then use a brush - one from a dustpan and brush will do - and give the wheels a scrub. <S> Wash off with a bucket of cold water and you should be done. <S> A pair of rubber gloves is worth it if your skin is sensitive to washing powder, but, if you use a brush then you should not need to get your hands wet or dirty. <A> Cables will actually "work harden" slightly and become very slightly less elastic as they age. <S> If they really do get "stretchy" <S> it's because several strands have broken and the cable is near failure. <S> Of course, many other things bend/stretch in the cable path, one being the brake calipers. <S> As the bushings get worn and the brakes abused over time they sometimes begin operating at a sort of an angle that amplifies their inherent springiness. <S> Worn/misaligned brake pads will contribute to this effect as well. <A> As the brake pads are used can become glazed reduceing brake performance. <S> They can also become hard when exposed to sunlight. <S> You can try sanding the pads,if you see an improvement the pads should be replaced. <S> Also inspect the brake surface of the wheel for oil or residue.
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Contaminants in the brake blocks also build up over time and these reduce the effectiveness of the brake, meaning you compensate by pulling the brake harder. Cables will stretch over time, but they won't become elastic. Given what you are describing, it is likely that you are looking in the wrong place for your solution.
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What's in a good all purpose city commuting winter tire? How do I determine what factors lead to a good all purpose city commuting winter tire? Does the rim matter? I'd like to not have to worry too much about looking out for and avoiding black ice, mainly because I'm not sure you can even do that reliably? I'll be riding on roads and bike paths but if I encounter an unplowed section, I'd want to be able to get thru the snow without too much trouble. I am interested in NYC so please factor that into your reply if possible, although a general answer would be great. FYI in NYC in January there's 8 inches of snow across 4 days, and 4 inches of rain across 10 days. Average temperature is 26F low, 38F high. <Q> Your best bet for all around tire in the winter is going to be a cyclocross tire. <S> They are made to race in grass, snow, on pavement, in sand, singletrack, and just about any way possible. <S> They also have different types of treads for different conditions. <S> You can't beat the Hutchinson Bulldogs, if you are looking for something more affordable, maybe the Maxxis Locust CX. <S> CX tires offer low rolling resistance in the center of the tire, and have good grip on the sides. <S> A less aggressive tread would be found on something like the Kenda Happy Medium. <S> Give those a shot this winter and you shouldn't be disappointed. <A> Snow is some of the hardest stuff to bike through, and riding in eight inches of loose snow is either impossible or a real slog depending on what tire you use. <S> For anything less than 2 inches, I don't think that the tire really matters because a mountain bike tire will get good traction, while a road tire will exert more pressure per area and generally find the road under the snow. <S> A road tire does offer less chance of recovery if you slip. <S> I set out about 4 years ago determined to ride through every day of the winter here in Toronto (which I think must have a similar winter to NYC). <S> I had some days where there would be many inches of snow, and I had to ride in the tracks of cars, but I made it through. <S> Riding on days like that just isn't fun. <A> I have 700x32 Marathon Plus tires: hoping that they are a good general-purpose commuting tire. <S> They're said to be OK on rain. <S> And riding during a snow storm (in Toronto) is analogous to riding in the rain: the tire goes through fresh-fallen snow to find the (wet) hard surface underneath. <S> Wet snow, even hard snow, packed snow, granular ice is one thing -- <S> actual sheet ice ("black ice") on the road surface though is different, something else, much more slippery -- <S> e.g. if you can't walk on it then you can't cycle on it, no friction -- for which I think you need studs (e.g. metal embedded in the tire). <S> The manufacturer (Schwalbe) also make ice tires. <S> They have studs, at the edges of the tire: <S> At high tire pressure, the tire is on its rim and the studs are off the road. <S> At low tire pressure, the tire is on its edges and the studs are running on the road. <S> So you adjust your tire pressure to match the road condition, for example depending on whether you expect to risk ice that day. <S> I haven't tried that, but it sounds clever and correct. <A> I favor the Serfas City Drifter 26x1.5. <S> I just switched to this tire for touring and from January till July no blow out. <S> These things are solid! <S> No matter what, if you hit ice just right, your gonna have a bad time. <A> I ride pretty much year round in all areas of NY on a Motobecane, Immortal Ice frame, Velocity wheels, and hands down the best tires I've found for these messed up streets are Armadillos. <S> Almost 7-years and never a blowout or any trouble. <S> Unless I'm doored. <S> Love them! <A> I'm not sure what kind of bike/wheel size you have, but Compass's Steilaccom tire (available in 700c or 650b) seems like a high end, <S> good option if you're committed to truly only having one tire year round for both pavement and snow. <S> I can fit on my commuter for when it snows, but in my past year of living in NYC, I never felt bothered to change tires for the relatively few times it snowed. <S> I just plowed through it on 28c Panaracer Paselas, or if I didn't want to grit through it, just took the train. <S> If I'm going to have just one set of tires on my commuter, I'd rather have one that I enjoy riding 95% of time, rather than compromise my enjoyment just to be somewhat less miserable when it snows.
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Not to try to dissuade you, but I personally find riding through any more than a couple inches of snow to be more hassle than it's worth. As far as 700's go, if you wanna pony up a little more cash I hands down suggest the Schwalbe Marathon Dureme. I have a pair of cheap 32c knobby cx tires by Kenda I live in South Central Wisconsin and have been commuting year round (on roads with there fair share of pot holes and such) for 3yrs now and have found a regular old commuter tire works just fine.
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Good wind-screen for a bicycle? I recently constructed my own windshield for my bicycle using Lexan and wood. It works great but it is hand-made thing and I might be willing to buy a premade one that is curved (mine has a 90 degree angle). But is there a good one available? <Q> Zzipper makes fairings for upright bikes. <S> I haven't used a Zzipper or Windwrap fairing myself, but they're well regarded by the people in the forums at bentrideronline.com , who I've gotten good advice from about 2 recumbents I've owned. <S> the smaller XT and XT mini might fit an upright. <S> It looks like most of of the mounts are being redesigned at the moment. <A> In The Netherlands they are very common, because we used to place a child-seat on the handlebars. <S> Here's a link to a second-hand website , that offers a lot of windscreens. <S> For some reason its in Dutch, but I'm sure you can get lots of inspiration, and maybe even get a cheap one. <A> It's best you either buy one or make your's a bit curve (if you are able to do it) if you want to be faster. <S> Because a 90 degree windshield is not aerodynamic. <S> if you are happy with your windshield, keep it.
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Windwrap is sold by t-cycle.com/collections/windwrap-fairings and they're made for recumbents, but
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What are the advantages and disadvantages of a cycling desk? I just came across an article about a cycling desk (never knew that such a thing existed). This past year, I gave up a traditional desk for a standing desk and have been pretty happy with the results, but getting in some extra miles during the work day is very, very intriguing. What are the advantages and disadvantages of a cycling desk, compared to a standing desk? (The increased activity of cycling over standing is obviously an advantage.) Would I be moving around too much to get work done, or is this a non-issue? What about the posture of sitting on a bike saddle all day? Can the movement of cycling be distracting? How does it compare to a standing desk with a treadmill? Does anyone have any experience with a cycling desk? And is it possible to be productive while cycling, or is that an unreasonable expectation? <Q> The basic answer is that there are many studies that link exercise and brain function . <S> There is an entire chapter in the book Brain Rules . <S> I have no personal experience with it, but that is the theory. <A> I have had an under-desk bike for about one month now. <S> I use it continuously at a low resistance while working. <S> So far I've done between 2-3 hours of cycling each day, though I hope to increase that. <S> I'm using a Magne Trainer, which is really easy to assemble but costs a bit more than the cheaper models. <S> It's very quiet and I've had zero problems with it sliding around or anything. <S> I did have to raise my desk, using wooden pieces from an old bookcase. <S> I have not raised the desk much. <S> In fact, I only raised it enough so that I could use the trainer the "wrong" way - my feet rest on the cuffs that are supposed to hold your feet, as opposed to the peddles. <S> This makes my feet closer to the ground which means my desk doesn't have to be as high. <S> I don't wear shoes while using it (I work from a home office. <S> I highly recommend it. <S> I sit in my normal chair. <S> I would not want to sit on a bicycle seat! <S> I had a bit of vertigo the first day (I'm highly prone to motion sickness) <S> but then it went away. <S> My chair wobbles ever so slightly back and forth with the motion, and I imagine that this could be fixed with a better chair, but I really don't mind it. <S> I can definitely concentrate on my work (possibly better than before) while cycling. <S> I wasn't overweight to begin with but just had about 4 pounds that I felt I wanted to get rid of. <S> I've lost 2 pounds <S> but I'm also being very careful about caloric intake as well - as I tend to gain weight when I exercise. <S> I hope that helps. <S> Now that I have it, I wouldn't want any other machine. <A> Notice that the rider in the article is on a concrete floor, which won't shift, and should deaden the sound of the trainer. <S> I know that in my home, it's hard to even watch a movie when on the trainer, and when upstairs, the vibrations can be heard clearly from outside. <S> I would recommend using a quiet trainer, with a tire that interfaces well with the roller, and a stable, noise dampening surface is a must. <S> Surfaces like carpet over chipboard will not work well <S> , Tile on top of thick plywood should be quieter, and concrete is probably best.
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A standing desk will get you off your bum, but a treadmil or cycle desk will get your body moving enough to allow your brain to work better. If the trainer creates excessive vibration/noise, that would make it difficult to be productive.
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Are modern forks compatible with older style bikes? I have an old 10-speed bike (likely 80's vintage) with a threaded fork. Can I replace it with a modern threadless fork with the style of stem that slides over the top of the fork and clamps on? I know I'd need to replace the stem and handlebars too and am happy to do that. What do I need to look for? Is the diameter of the head tube different with newer bikes? <Q> The technical term is "threaded fork". <S> That is, the steering tube has threads on top for the headset to screw onto. <S> The newer design is called "threadless" - that's the one where the stem clamps onto the steering tube with pinch bolts. <S> (You'll obviously have to use a headset and stem designed for the type of fork you have.) <S> The problem is, the diameter is often not the same. <S> Around the same time as the threadless forks were introduced, they started making the steering tubes and head tubes thicker. <S> The old ones were typically 1 inch (that's the steering tube outer diameter). <S> The new ones are 1.125", sometimes 1.5". <S> You should measure just to be sure, but I bet you have a 1". <S> It's possible to get a 1" threadless fork, stem and headset, but the choices will be pretty limited. <A> possible if you will change the steerer (1 1/4")of the new fork into 1" and you will just use spacers for it to get fit.. <A> the threaded quill design <S> the cost is under $15 part # <S> NS-TSA <S> .Measure <S> you current quill to order the correct size,note that the one inch quill is actually closer to 7/8". <S> If your quill measures one inch order the 1 1/8" size. <S> This adapter allows you to use the larger variety of stems and bars that clamp on to the steerer tube while reusing your old fork.
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You can switch from one to the other as long as the diameter of the steering tube is the same. Not sure the reason for your need to change but,at Nashbar.com they have an adaptor that allows you to use modern threadless headsets with
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Why would a bike feature a "carbon wrapped aluminum frame"? I saw a link to what appeared to be a Carbon bike on amazon . The price was extremely lower than any carbon bike I had ever seen. After reading a bit, it seems that the bike frame is really made of "carbon fibre wrapped aluminum". What advantages would wrapping an aluminum frame in carbon have compared to just a regular aluminum bike. Is it just to get a carbon look bike more cheaply, or does it allow you to use a narrower aluminum frame, with carbon taking up some stress, creating a frame with a weight somewhere between carbon and aluminum? <Q> That is purely marketing. <S> It's a common ploy with components, but I've never seen it on an entire frame until now. <S> Aluminum and carbon can be used in conjunction effectively, but not in this case. <S> The carbon wrap on that bike is basically veneer. <S> While Schwinn was once upon a time a well respected brand, they suffered a major fall from grace after going bankrupt. <S> Their bikes, even their bike shop level bikes (i think they call them their "select" series bikes) target the budget market. <S> They're not horrible, but they're not great either. <S> The bike you posted a link to is no exception. <S> One could argue that the combination of dissimilar materials would aid to vibration dampening, but that's really just more marketing jargon, at least in this case. <S> That bike will still ride just like a full aluminum framed bike would. <S> If you are considering that bike save yourself a few bucks and just go with a full aluminum frame. <A> For the carbon fiber to be of any use structurally, it has have multiple layers. <S> If it says it is wrapped around the aluminum, my bet it is for show only so it gives the appearance of being an expensive frame when it is clearly not. <S> There is no way that a composite of the two will be very light without being very weak if it were compared to a full Carbon frame or an Aluminum. <S> Both materials will not hold up to a stress test. <S> The Aluminum would be very brittle and the Carbon fiber would be very squishy. <S> Carbon and Aluminum are very light as is. <S> Carbon fiber is light and when wrapped certain ways can be stiff or supple. <S> Aluminum is always stiff, that is the nature of the material. <S> To reiterate, it is most likely a way to mask a cheap frame and pass it off as Carbon fiber. <A> It would in theory combine some of the characteristics of both, while permitting a cheaper bike than straight carbon. <S> Or it could just be hype. <S> Or the "carbon wrap" could be used to conceal crummy joining of the aluminum tubes. <A> Mid range bikes commonly have a carbon-wrapped seat post which claims to reduce vibration and increase comfort. <S> Basically, get some of the benefits of a full carbon seat post with less of the cost. <S> I expect this manufacturer is using the same concept on the entire frame to get carbon-like ride at a reduced cost. <S> Personally, I cannot discern the difference between a carbon-wrapped and a non-carbon wrapped seat post. <S> I think it's difficult to tell if the carbon-wrap would improve the ride any just based on the description. <S> I've ridden aluminum frame bikes that ride far better than full-carbon frame bikes that cost quite a bit more. <S> The frame material is just one factor in ride quality and a "carbon wrapped" frame could be a huge improvement for the right frame design or a huge marketing gimmick for the wrong one.
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The aluminum could be thinner, providing only modest strength but serving as a mandrel to support the carbon, and the carbon would produce a stiffer bike than straight aluminum. I know other riders who believe it makes a difference (but they were using a different brand of seatpost).
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How do I prevent my hydraulic brakes from getting pressed/damaged when the wheels are off? When I was buying my bike, the technician in the shop told me not to press the brakes when the wheels are off (detached), otherwise the brakes will get damaged (I don't know how). I need to detach the wheels for a few days and I want to clean the bicycle in the meantime. I will be moving it a lot, rotating it upside down, etc. How do I make sure the brakes don't get damaged during this process? <Q> The Hayes company even puts their brand logo on theirs. <S> Since these are removed during assembly, you might be able to ask a repair person at your local shop if they have any extras lying around that you can just have to keep. <S> EDIT: <S> Here's a link to a how-to that gives the same advice, plus has some photos of the separator in use... <S> http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-repair/hydraulic-disc-brake-service/ <A> I had the same problem when storing my bike. <S> I used coins to keep the pads separated. <S> It works pretty well <A> The brakes won't get damaged . <S> They'll just squeeze the pads together so tight that you won't be able to get the rotor back in there. <S> See related question. <S> I don't know if there are any special tools, but you should be able to rig something up with a small chunk of plywood or cardboard that's about the same thickness as the rotor, or slightly thicker. <S> Just stick it between the pads, and secure it with tape or rubber bands. <S> It's stuff like this that makes me glad <S> I don't have hydraulics. <A> Hi i have a bag of plastic builders packers in different thicknesses. <S> I wedge in the size that fits best as the amount of wear on the pad will vary. <S> Really useful when taking wheels off and transporting in back of car as i always tend to knock the levers. <S> The bag cost around 2.50 from the local hardware shop. <A> Just to add to the other answers: There are special tools, but they're just plastic wedges, so a flat blade screwdriver is fine. <A> The damage will come from chipping/scratching/gouging the pads when you try to get them apart and back over the rotor. <S> As for preventing operation of your brakes, you can wedge something between the brake lever and handlebar and duct tape it in place, or use my preferred method of just being careful and not grabbing the lever.
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Since bikes are usually shipped to the dealer with the wheels disassembled from the frame, the disc calipers often each have a plastic separator pressed into them that serve to prevent lock-up during shipping. If you are replacing the brake pads, it's not such an issue, but in any case it is easier to put a spacer between them.
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What's the best way to fix up my used bike? I bought a used bike on craigslist, for cheap, and while I wasn't expecting it to be great the brakes and changing gears don't work perfectly. The front brakes are very tight and the back ones are pretty loose... I can stop and everything but just would rather have a better performing system. The gears change but sometimes don't work that well and I have to move the shifters all around for it to "stick" in a gear. Is there some way to simplify the gear structure? I wouldn't mind a single or fixed gear transition (since I live in NYC) but still want the ability to coast and use my brakes (assuming I can fix those too) <Q> Simple adjustment <S> The easiest way to confirm this would be to take it to your local bike store (LBS) and ask them for advice. <S> Most stores are pretty friendly and helpful towards keen amateurs. <S> If they advise that it's just adjustments they can do it themselves, or show you the adjustment screws <S> so you can try it yourself. <S> More significant work <S> It may turn out that there is more work required, such as replacing brakes or gears. <S> Also the chain, cassette and chainrings may need replacing. <S> In this case I'd be very wary of investing too much money into the bike. <S> Buying components individually is a lot more expensive than buying a complete bike. <S> Plus making sure parts will fit can be confusing and unreliable. <A> Visit a bike <S> co-op Look online to find bicycle co-ops near you . <S> Lots of cities have co-ops . <S> The friendly volunteers in your local co-op can teach you how to fix your bike. <S> Co-ops also have a wide variety of tools you can use. <S> Shop time is often as cheap as USD$5 to USD$10 per hour. <S> They may also have a library of books you can read. <S> As well, they may rent out tools for you to bring home. <A> Brake maintenance has a few different steps: <S> Ensure that the brakes pads are not worn out and sitting a decent distance from the rim. <S> If you can't see a minimum wear line, it's time to replace your pads. <S> If the brakes are sitting more than a couple of millimeters from the rim, you will have to adjust the system. <S> If there's a barrel adjuster somewhere in the brake line, turn it counter-clockwise a few times until the brake is sitting closer to the rim. <S> Be careful here that you don't introduce a brake-rub, as an untrue wheel may wobble into the pads. <S> If there is more slack than can be taken up with the barrel adjuster, screw it all the way in again and redo the tension by undoing the bolt fastening the cable to the brake. <S> Also, if it's a road style caliper make sure that the quick release lever is flipped down. <S> Clean the braking surface and the surface of the pad. <S> Grey gunk builds up on your braking surface over time. <S> It can be cleaned off with elbow grease and steel wool. <S> Ensure that your cables are moving freely. <S> If you notice that you are pulling the brake lever and the cable isn't moving much at the brake, you likely have rust in your housing. <S> Often letting some oil work it's way into the end of the housing, then letting it sit will clear this up. <S> (synthetic chain lube preferably, but wd40 would probably work too). <S> If that doesn't do it, the housings and cables should be replaced. <A> I like Zinn's series of books. <S> Lots of great advice and catchy titles. <S> What's not to like? http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=zinn+cycle&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Azinn+cycle&ajr=0 <A> I would suggest learning to adjust the setup on your bike before anything else. <S> If you're mechanically minded, get your hands dirty and have a play around. <S> If you're not, a bicycle is a great place to start your learning, and you can always take it to a bike store if it frustrates you too much. <S> There are a lot of youtube videos on the subject if you prefer them over books: <S> Adjusting brakes: Adjusting your rear derailleur, which is often the cause of gear troubles: <S> You'll first want to check the back wheel <S> is true and aligned correctly. <S> Sometimes going over gutters and bumps can knock the wheel loose which knocks everything else out of alignment. <S> Steel cables will stretch over time, especially if you store them under tension like leaving your bike in a low gear overnight. <S> It's worthwhile learning how to adjust them as they need it done periodically. <S> You'll need some basic tools, depending on your bike, generally: a shifter (adjustable/shifting spanner) or a socket set phillips head screwdriver allen keys <S> e.g. your brakes don't work as expected or your wheel locks up. <S> Good luck and happy cycling!
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It may be that your brakes and gears are simply out of adjustment. If there's much wrong with the bike I'd say it'd be cheaper to buy a new bike where you know that all the parts are at least compatible and in good condition. If the surface of the pads look at all glazed, rough them up with a course grit sandpaper. After you do any work, do a short test ride out of traffic and harms way in case something goes wrong
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Is it worth switching from regular "rim brakes" to the new disk brakes? I have an old Haro mountain bike I love. One feature request I have for a new bike is disk brakes. Is it possible to install disk brakes on an old bike? Is it worth it? <Q> If your Haro does have disc brake mount tabs, then you can install them but likely only with smaller disc rotors. <S> Remember that you'll have to get new wheels too, which increases your total cost. <S> Disc brakes are great for many riders, but then again so are rim brakes. <S> Do you really need to switch? <A> Whatever you do, don't attempt to install disk brakes on a bike that wasn't wasn't built for that. <S> Even if your frame supports disc brakes, I'm guessing it wouldn't be cost effective: You'd need new hubs, the brakes themselves, and possibly new brake levers and shifters. <S> But yes, disc brakes perform beautifully regardless of the weather. <A> Is it worth it? <S> Hell <S> yeah. <S> Especially for wet or muddy conditions. <S> Is it possible on your bike? <S> Probably not. <S> Unless you get new wheels, a new frame and a new fork. <S> In which case you might as well buy a new bike.
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It isn't wise to install disc brakes on a frame and fork that weren't designed to withstand the unique forces that disc brakes generate, and you'll just damage your bike in the process.
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What's the easiest way to insert a star nut into a steerer tube? I need to install one of those star-fangled nuts, but I don't do this often enough to warrant buying a special tool for it. I usually manage to hammer the thing in eventually but in the past it has taken quite a while to get it in straight and once I even broke the nut. Is there a reliable DIY solution using cheap bits from the hardware store? I am currently thinking perhaps try some PVC tube and a rubber bung. <Q> The easiest solution is to use the right tool to make sure the star nut is aligned and set to the right depth in the steerer tube. <S> I'd really recommend taking this to a shop and asking to borrow the proper tool . <S> I own one, even though it only gets used once or twice per year. <S> I've tended to go more towards <S> compression plugs instead of the old star-fangled nut. <S> If you're looking for an alternative to using the proper tool , you can thread a bolt in the nut and tap carefully with a hammer, or perhaps use a dowel or socket of the appropriate diameter instad of a bolt. <A> Agree with ewwhite above, using the right tool will save you a lot of hassles and having to go to the shop with your tail between your legs. <S> Watch the alignment since the star nut will tend not to insert evenly. <S> If you have a longer bolt you can insert it through the cap and then into the star nut. <S> Then use the cap to help with keeping the bolt aligned. <A> In the end I put the nut bottom-up on an old piece of carpet, held the forks upside down and struck the nut into the steerer tube with medium force. <S> It went in fairly flat. <S> Then I screwed in the bolt and tapped it in carefully. <S> It's actually quite straight. <S> I don't think I'd recommend this method: I may have just been lucky this time. <S> I do have the forks on now though!
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But, as also mentioned, threading the bolt into the star nut and tapping in carefully can work.
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New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use? My new chain is totally coated in lube. I would never ride a bike with a chain like this normally. All that goop is just going to collect flotsam from the road and wear out the chain. Should I clean this coating off the new chain too? <Q> The coating is generally a form of wax, which is an excellent chain lube, and less apt to attract dirt than most chain oils. <S> All you really should do is wipe off (with a dry cloth) <S> any excess. <S> If the wax seems excessively heavy you can add a little solvent to the cloth, to just wipe off the outer coating. <S> You want to leave the lube on the inside of the chain, where it's really needed. <A> Sheldon Brown says no (http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html): <S> This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact. <S> Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. <S> Don't do this! <A> It depends on the brand. <S> Most brands used to use a heavy packing grease that was very tacky and an absolute dirt magnet. <S> It's more of a preservative for the metal than a lubricant. <S> Some manufacturers have moved away from that type of grease to a lighter lube that you can use out of the package (Shimano moved to this lighter lubricant if I remember correctly, SRAM has not). <S> Your lighter lubricant will combine with the heavier lubricant and help remove it. <S> You can also use a non-water based solvent on a rag to achieve the same result, just be sure you re-lube the chain afterwards. <A> I always find it more worthy to ride the new chain as is, and clean it when needed. <S> Since if you'll need to clean it anyway, at least take advantage it is already lubed, although with a less-than-ideal lube. <S> I use KMC chains, by the way, and they are in the sticky end of the spectrum, but I didn't perceived any dust-attracting property, at least not more than any other lubed chain, wiped to remove excess or not (I never remove the excess, but try to put just the "right" amount of oil, not an easy goal although...). <A> but I know it's seems a bit over done on some chains. <S> If it seems like it'll attract too much dirt <S> you could take a degreaser like Clean Streak and spray some on a rag and then make one quick pass around the left and right sides of the chain. <S> Avoid getting the degreaser in contact with the rollers along the top and bottom. <A> I just got a new Shimano CN HG-53 <S> and it was covered in a honey-like lubrication. <S> I wiped all that stuff of and used my own lubrication on the chain. <S> Worst part of the factory-applied lube was, that it was all over the place just waiting to collect all kind of dirts on my first ride. <A> I have learned the hard way that chain suck can also be caused by sticky factory lube on a new chain. <S> I followed Sheldon Browns advice to NOT remove the factory lube from a new SRAM chain, something I have always done in the past (and will in the future). <S> This caused terrible chain suck to the extent I had no confidence in the bike. <S> I degreased and lubed the chain with my normal go to lube (Muc Off dry), problem solved! <A> Personal advice, don't clean it. <S> Eventually there will come a time that you'll clean it depending on your use. <S> Then you degrease and apply your preferred lube. <S> Saves you time and money. <A> The wax on KMC chains can sometimes be so thick (perhaps been on shelf for a long time?) <S> that it causes sounds and sucking even on brand new bikes that are perfecty set up. <S> In these cases, degreasing and then relubing by soaking will IME solve the problem and improve performance. <A> Just saying I had a new SRAM chain installed by a local owner of a bike shop who said the factory lube is better than anything you can apply and relube in 300 miles (482 km or three weeks).
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Regardless of brand, if the new chain feels overly tacky you can use your favorite lube and over-apply it to the chain then give it a thorough wipe down to remove the excess. I would recommend leaving the manufacturers grease in place Let it collect dirt first.
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How to prevent my bike from tipping over when using just one pannier? I often carry gear in a pannier on my bike rack, as in the photo below (not my bike, but same pannier design. My actual bike frame is very different; I'll upload my own picture tomrrow): I have two panniers, but typically only use one because I usually have to carry the bag around with me at my destination, and carrying more than one bag becomes cumbersome. The problem I run into is that when fully loaded (not beyond capacity, but close to it), my bike tips over when I prop it up with the kickstand. I always put the pannier on the same side as my kickstand, as I've learned that it tips over easier when on the opposite side. What can I do to prevent my bike from tipping over when the pannier is too full? The easiest solution would be to distribute the load between two panniers, but that's impractical because of the challenges with lugging around two bags once I'm at my destination. Do there exist kickstands with some sort of platform on the bottom to help stabilize them? Is my kickstand not positioned/attached correctly? Or is there some better way to balance things out so that my bike won't tip over? <Q> You have a few options here. <S> You can get a two-legged kickstand. <S> These are primarily used with heavy touring loads, but they will help stabilize the bike when parking with an uneven load. <S> The two legs fold up into each other when you disengage the kickstand. <S> You generally cut these with a hacksaw to shorten them to the appropriate length. <S> I used one for a while: <S> However, that may be overkill. <S> You might look into what's sometimes called a brake-band by the maker of the Click-Stand , an add-on for a parking stand for touring bikes. <S> (The stand itself - a kind of tent-pole-like thing with a rest on the end that the bike leans into - would likely be overkill for am everyday use like this.) <S> This'll hold the brakes on while the bike is parked, and stop the bike from rolling while parked. <S> (You can purchase them from the click-stand site, or just make your own with pieces of velcro.) <S> Here they are, hanging on the side of my bike in between uses: <S> Finally, if you're not too picky about your paint job, you can simply decide to go without a kickstand and just lean your bike against a wall or a pole, or lay it on the ground. <A> This prevents "lawn suck" where my kickstand would pathetically drown in my boggy front lawn, tipping over even when unloaded. <S> I would also adjust the angle of my front tire such that it felt more stable when stopped. <S> Distributing your load across parts of your bicycle is desirable, Ward and Niel have good suggestions. <S> I put a Sunlight two footed kickstand on both my wife's and my own bicycles, and it is more affordable than a Civia or Plesher <S> two footed kickstand. <S> That said, our bikes still tip over, and these are often the reasons: too much weight on the left or right rear too much weight on the top of the rack (like a milk crate full of textbooks) uneven parking area, bike rolling (use a brake strap or improvise a chalk block) slippery parking area (wet grass, frost) load too tall, try keeping the center of gravity as low as you can with your load <S> I tend to pack my panniers on the bike close to the same time, on the sidewalk or a paved path and not on a lawn whenever possible. <S> There is also the option of using a folding aluminum pole as a bicycle stand, you would lean your top-tube or seat post against it, and it would be able to (in conjunction with the brake strap) support a heavily loaded bike on more varied terrain. <S> It is worth pointing out that if you're saving for some kind of upgrade, a used trailer is not a bad option, either, that gives you about the lowest center of gravity. <S> Craigslist or kids clothes consignment shops often have them. <A> You say that putting the pannier on the opposite side of the bike makes the problem worse. <S> This makes me think the bike isn't well balanced on the stand. <S> The stand may be too short for the bike, so that the bike leans too much. <S> Try putting a block of wood under the stand. <S> If that helps, get a stand with a longer arm (or leg, what is that part called?). <S> The stand may be angled too much to the front. <S> This would allow the load to pull the bike so it pivots around the stand until it falls. <S> A stand that is angled back may help. <A> Further to my comment on that being an amazing rack, maybe it's contributing to the problem? <S> It's hard to tell from the picture (and <S> you say it's not your bike, but you have a similar rack), but it looks like the pannier is held farther from the wheel than it would be with a conventional rack that has stays that bolt to braze-ons near the rear dropouts. <A> I have a pannier which unclips easily from the rack, and which I then take to use as a bag. <S> I don't leave it on the bike, full, when the bike is parked (I take it with me).
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Another idea is that if you put the pannier on the opposite side to the kickstand, when the bike is tilted towards the stand, the weight will be closer to centered and the bike should be less likely to tip. Even if I did leave it on the bike that wouldn't tip the bike: because the bike has no kick-stand, I park it locked to an upright bike stand or post. I invested in a Pakbak pannier rack with low top rails that give a slightly lower center of gravity. I used to roll with single kickstands and I went for a very frugal solution using a lid to a salsa jar under my kickstand. Basically, like Neil points out, you can adapt your habits.
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I feel long rides exclusively in my quads, should my calf muscles be doing more work? I notice a lot of cyclists with massive sculpted calf muscles, especially the kind that clearly ride as a life-style without worrying about minimizing body weight. I've switched cities, and gone from a 7km round-trip commute to 25km round trip. I've been cycling hard as a hobby and often clocked 200km or more per week. After 6 months, I find that it's my quads that are getting larger, and my quads that are sore and tired after long rides, while my calf muscles feel hardly involved. Does this suggest something wrong with my technique and/or posture? Should I be working to involve my calf muscles more? Possibly relevant: I cycle with a pretty aggressive bent-over posture, on a touring bike with drop bars. I use clipless shoes and have been working on applying more power in the upwards-stroke. I ride with my seat relatively high, but comfortable and I'm certain I'm not over-extending my legs. <Q> I don't think you have a problem here. <S> Physiologically, your thighs are the engine room of your legs. <S> They are designed for endurance and power and can keep working at a high output for extended periods of time. <S> Your calves are more for short bursts of power, such as jumping or sprinting. <S> They can't sustain high power output for any length of time. <S> Attempting to work them harder will probably just result in fatigue and injuries. <A> There is a technique known as "toeing". <S> Basically, as you turn the crank with your feet your toe angles up and down -- up at the top of the stroke and down at the bottom. <S> This makes use of some of the strength/energy of the calf muscles. <S> But to do this well you must be riding with the ball of your foot on the pedal (generally implying toe clips or "clipless" pedals). <S> If you ride with the arch of your foot on the pedal then toeing does little good. <S> Also, a good cyclist will have a (semi)conscious forward/backward motion with the legs, pushing forward at the top of the stroke and pulling backward at the bottom. <S> Probably doesn't involve the calves much, but does contribute to overall power. <A> cyclists have large quads. <S> I think this might help you, it shows what muscles are responsible for what part of a pedal stroke: http://imgur.com/QFYRPdV https://njcyclestudios.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/power.jpg <A> It might matter where your cleats are: whether they're more forward under the ball of your foot, or more rearward under the arch of your foot. <A> I think that this is a function of every cyclist being slightly different. <S> It's not a bad idea to have your bike fit checked by a knowledgeable professional though. <S> Are you applying even force throughout the pedal stroke, with both legs? <S> Do your hips stay level while pedalling, even at high cadences. <S> Answering no to one of these questions may indicate a seat height issue.
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It could be due to your bike fit, but there's a lot of power in your quads, and if you will note a lot of pros (very noticeable track) Just keep in mind that this isn't an exact science, and comfort may override some recommendations. Something that you can evaluate yourself is the smoothness of your cadence. In distance cycling, your calves should be fairly passive.
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How to chose a right sized mountain (or all-terrain) bike for a kid? Will a bike with 11" frame and 20" wheels be suitable for 120 cm high child?Is there general recommendation about what should I pay attention to, when choosing a bike for a kid? Will Kona Shred 2-0 or Ghost Powerkid 20" fit the requirements? <Q> It's hard to answer that question, because people and bikes can be built in many different ways. <S> Bike fit is a complex art, but here's the crude and simple version: have the rider straddle the bike's top tube, feet flat on the ground. <S> If there isn't at least a couple inches of space between bike and crotch, then the bike is too big. <S> On the other hand, you don't want it so small that your knees are hitting the handlebars while pedaling. <S> For a bike that's mainly ridden on pavement, you want the seat high enough so that the legs are almost fully extended at the bottom of the stroke. <S> For off-road riding, or for kids that are still learning to ride, you want it lower. <A> I don't know either of the bikes you mention, but the main thing to measure is the inside leg measurement, not the total height of the child as this is the most critical to get right for the bike fit. <S> One UK company which specialises in children's bikes is Isla Bikes . <S> Their website has some very good measurement guides that ensures a good fit. <S> If your child has set their heart on one of the bikes you mention, I would recommend taking them down to the LBS to try them out for size before purchasing. <S> There's no substitute for trying it out. <A> The child should be able to stand straddling the bike with both feet flat on the ground (and still comfortable clearance for "the valuables"). <S> This is usually a bit easier on "mountain" style bikes, but don't take take too much advantage of that <S> or you may get a bike that is too large overall. <S> And if the bike really will be ridden off-road you want more clearance. <S> But getting a bike that's grossly too small is not a good idea either. <S> Second, look at seat height. <S> However, there needs to be enough adjustment range built in so that the seat can be lifted high enough to get (nearly) full leg extension at the bottom of the stroke (plus a little extra for growing room). <S> (Start raising the seat a half-inch at a time once the child is steady on the bike.) <S> Finally "reach" -- <S> generally if the height is right the reach will be OK, but check it, since some small bikes are actually built for larger kids. <S> The child should be able to grasp the handlebars without having to lean forward more than a little -- we're not wanting to see an aero crouch here. <S> Note that for the first two measurements you can work from leg measurements, if you don't want the child shopping with you. <S> (Use your best judgment regarding "clearance".) <S> "Reach" will generally be OK if the bike is reasonably "normal" in form-factor.
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If this is a "starter" bike then it's best if it's possible to lower the seat enough that the child can sit on the seat and with his/her toes balance the bike and push it along. The first thing to look at is "standover height".
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Do 29 inch wheels make a difference? Possible Duplicate: 29" wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels? Do 29 inch wheels make a difference off road? They certainly cost more. <Q> Since I switched to my 29-er in september, I can keep up with the fastest bikers in my "team". <S> Before that I just could not. <S> It could be due to the new material, but I think there's a speed difference of about 2 km/h. <S> I bike on the flat tracks of nothern Belgium and the south of the Netherlands. <S> So no climbing or descending. <S> The 29-er is definitly faster on (loose) sand, and mud. <S> And a lot more comfortable on tree-roots and the "Belgian Blocks" . <S> For really, really small turns, I notice the wheelbase is larger, but otherwise I do not notice any difference in handling. <A> If you think about rolling over a tree root, or rock, or really anything on a mountain bike, the bigger the tire, the easier it is to roll over these obstacles. <S> The angle created by the 29 inch tire is less than the angle of a 26 inch tire, so it rolls up and over with less effort. <S> You also gain more ground clearance, the larger tire elevates your bottom bracket, chainrings and pedals allowing you to roll over larger obstacles as well. <A> <A> Compared to 26": They are heavier and/or weaker. <S> They force frame designers to lengthen chainstays making bikes handle less well, as well having knock-on effects for rear suspension travel path. <S> Your wallet will thank you. <A> Comparing with 26" Pros:- goes more softer- more suitable for tall biker <S> Cons:- more expensive (in general)- weight- acceleration is lower <A> Well, I think the wikipedia page currently offers a pretty concise view of the differences between a 26" and a 29" wheel without being overly biased. <S> One item from that list, though I would also list in advantages (not just disadvantages): "More force needed to change steering angle due to greater mass and longer contact patch". <S> This can also be translated the other way: more force is needed by obstacles, trail conditions, etc. <S> to change the steering angle. <S> 29er's are often less "flickable" or "agile" but depending on your type of riding/needs this can be advantage! <S> Does changing the wheel size make a difference? <S> Yes. <S> Does it make a difference that means that it is better/worse? <S> Not really. <S> To further confuse things, there are two other bikes that mix things up: <S> the 96er (front wheel is a 29er, back is a 26er) and the 650b (a size in between the two). <S> In the end, you'll learn to ride with the advantages/disadvantages of your wheel choice. <S> I personally also feel the terrain you ride the most <S> also dictates what works the "best". <S> And your own opinion as well.
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Personally I think they are another gimick standard, their lower rolling resistance may outweigh the negatives for mild off-road XC, but for anything else stick to 26". Where you are going to notice the difference is in clearance of "obstacles" because of the bigger diameter of the wheel objects you go over seem smaller, therefore, making it easier to roll over them
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Helmets for big heads This question was posted on the excellent BikeHacks website: I don't have a hack, but a question. My head measures 66cm. I can't find a helmet that fits. Even ones that go to 66cm are too small. I've considered looking into motorcycle helmets. Any advice? I'll post a link to this question under the blogpost. <Q> Try multiple shops. <S> Try multiple brands and models. <S> Head shapes vary, so it's possible that one "66cm" (26in) model will be too small and <S> another "66cm" model will fit. <S> It's worth trying multiple shops since most shops will only stock one or two brands of helmet and only carry one model intended for larger heads. <S> Having an idea whether your head is long or wide might help. <S> It's hard to measure your head properly with a measuring tape, however. <S> The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute website has a page about helmets for large heads that gets updated when new models come out. <S> It seems that 66cm is the largest size for bicycle helmets. <S> If you can find any sort of multiple options, a helmet that fits lower on your head and wraps more around the sides and back is better than one that perches on the top of your head. <S> I believe motorcycle helmets are measured against a higher standard. <S> The problem with motorcycle helmets is that they're heavy and tend not to have as much ventilation as a bicycle helmet, so it might be uncomfortable. <S> Note on sizes: 66cm = <S> 26inches = XXXL = 8 1/8 UK = 8 1/4 US = 9 1/2 FR. <S> Those last few are hat sizes, but many helmets seem to have the hat size type sizing info easier to find. <S> Look for helmets with those sizes or larger. <S> I have big head issues, but luckily most of the big-head helmets do fit. <S> I think they're a more rounded rather than circular shape on the inside and that makes all the difference. <S> I'm not recommending this model for you, however, I'm recommending you check out the big helmet options at multiple shops. <A> Check out this post from Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute. <S> Helmets for Large Heads <A> I have a large head and Fox XLs are nice.
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If you can find a motorcycle helmet that fits, that should provide as much or more protection as a bicycle helmet. I've had good luck with the "Specialized Max" line even though the official sizing printed on it is smaller than my hat size.
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Ice tires for winter commuting on non-icy roads? Can a tire like the Schwalbe Marathon Winter be used for winter-long commuting (40 km/day) on roads which are mostly or usually not icy? I might want the studs occasionally (and lower the air pressure to get them), but not on most days. This is Toronto where it's subzero at night, with snow etc., for about 4 months (it's snowing today for the first time), but they plough and salt the roads. I wouldn't want to have to swap the tires daily or weekly depending on the weather: only once a season. <Q> I think the tires would be durable enough (my winter commute in nearby Kitchener, ON is about 20 km/day and my Marathon winters hold up pretty well) but they're definitely going to feel more sluggish than a road tire. <S> If you're normally running them with enough air pressure to keep the studs clear of the pavement, I think that kind of defeats the purpose of them (and that much pressure makes the ride a little harsh for my liking as well). <S> Carbide studs will last as long as the carcass of the tire holds together, and there's always a chance of running into an icy patch somewhere , even if 99.5% of your route is bare and dry. <A> If you take the bus on those days, don't. <S> I find that they're more useful not so much for icy roads, but more for icy sidewalks (sometimes I have no choice), icy parking lots, parks, or other passages where they don't put salt. <S> One last thing, they're as bad as regular tires in "greasy brown icy slush". <A> -- you're more likely to get a flat (which sucks so bad when it's -20!), and the studs only help on ice.. <S> So if you ride on frozen lakes a lot, you should get them :) <S> I ride winters in Montreal, and my favourite winter tires are narrow, knobby ones (cyclocross) -- they cut through the soft-packed snow and get traction on whatever's beneath. <A> I tried this a few years back. <S> There isn't much point if you're not riding on ice. <S> Just get a standard road tire. <S> If you're riding that much on normal roads, the nubs will be mostly worn off for the odd time that you are one ice.
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It boils down to this: if you use your bike when the roads are icy, get them. In my experience, studded tires aren't that great
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What causes chain suck? Specifically when changing gears from middle chain ring to smallest, the chain will sometimes get 'sucked' up between the inner chainring and chain stay. It seems to happen more often in muddy conditions. I keep my drive train clean and lube my chain often. I bought the bike new and maybe 1200-1500 miles on the original chain/derailers.I have swapped out the original (aluminum) inner chainring with a new steel chainring and still get chain suck. <Q> The problem you describe is caused by either a badly worn cog, a rear derailer with insufficient "tooth capacity" (given the gear combo you're using), a seriously deficient rear derailer tension spring, or a chain that is simply too long. <S> A worn chain will tend to exacerbate things, as will a chain that's "sticky" from grease or mud. <A> If a chainring needed replacement (these usually last longer than the cogs), it is quite likely the cassette and chain did too. <A> There's no definitive answer about the root causes of chain suck. <S> Or, more precisely, the definitive answer is probably the one that says "there is more than one contributing factor". <S> The two obvious cases that come to mind are: 1) extremely worn chainring that "hooks" the chain, 2) new chain on an old chairing (even if the latter is not extremely worn). <S> In the latter case the most load is transferred by the bottom teeth of the chainring greatly increasing friction at the bottom point. <S> But unfortunately chain suck happens even with perfectly new chainrings and chains. <S> You can find quite a few theories floating around the Net. <S> It is clear that chain suck is caused by excessive "friction" between the chain and the larger chairing, which prevents the chain from detaching from the larger chainring at the final phases of shifting. <S> As for what causes that excessive friction... <S> There are just too many factors involved here. <S> How clean the chainring is. <S> How clean the chain is. <S> How long the chainstays are (which affects the angle that the chain sweeps during the shift). <S> How resistive your chain is to any lateral displacements. <S> How sharp is the angle at which it bends during the shift. <S> How well the plane of the chainring is aligned with the current cog. <S> And so on and so forth. <S> You can consider yourself lucky if in your case the chain gets stuck between the chainstay and the ring. <S> In my case it doesn't. <S> As it wraps around the chainring, it travels all the way around to the front derailleur and slams into the derailleur cage. <S> The derailleur gets disfigured beyond recognition. <A> You seem to have answered yourself, but there are a few causes: worn chain / cogs. <S> rusty cogs, especially toward lower gears. <S> dirty cogs. <A> Best article I have found on the subject is here: https://reviews.mtbr.com/workbench-how-to-un-suck-your-chainsuck <S> It lists: <S> Shifting under load—particularly down-shifting Damaged chainring teeth or chain <S> A dirty (especially gritty) chain: <A> Well I’ll add another cause of chain suck which just happened to me today - gummy eucalyptus tree wood which some how got sucked by the chain into the front chain ring and then was crushed and shoved into the chain so firmly it would not release when it should while pedaling. <S> The wood was so firmly jammed it took me several serious yanks on the chain to free it. <S> The result was a very tweaked derailleur and bent replaceable chainstay so bad I could barely shift. <S> Took some doing to make a few adjustments to get back home <S> and then to my LBS <S> who, thankfully straightened everything out. <S> I did this on my Turbo Levo and wonder if the extra power of the motor contributed to forcing the wood through the chain ring that I myself might not have been strong enough to do.
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A very dry chain (needing lubrication): Worn chainring teeth: A worn, stretched or damaged chain: Burrs on the teeth of new chainwheels, mismatched wear: (Drivetrain) maintenance is something you should get in the habit of doing if you want to get maximum mileage and enjoyment out of your bike in general, especially if you are riding in dirt and mud.
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Are drop bars suitable for winter commuting? I've been told by somewhat knowledgable people that drop bars aren't suitable for winter cycling in snow and ice. Is there any validity to this? If so, why, and which style of handle bar would be preferable? <Q> Drop bars in of themselves are fine for winter riding. <S> However, there are some peripheral issues involved. <S> Your average flat bars will offer a bit more control in slippery conditions because flat bars are much, much wider than drop bars. <S> A bike equipped with drop bars <S> may not be the best bike for winter riding. <S> But properly configured and sized drops can be excellent for winter riding. <S> You can mitigate this by getting wider drop bars; the ones meant for touring are great for winter riding. <S> Keep in mind that handlebar sizing isn't an exact science, but you generally want them to be as wide as your shoulders. <S> A lot of road bikes won't have anything approaching this kind of width. <S> (Also, there aren't that many wide, stocky roadies.) <S> Tires: Road bikes--which is where you usually see drop bars--often won't allow for the fitting of appropriate tires for riding on snow and ice. <S> Not the fault of the drop bars! <A> I'll say it as bluntly as possible. <S> The style of handlebars on a bicycle has absolutely no bearing on its suitability for winter conditions. <A> Personal experience here, but I do not see any reason why drop handlebars wouldn't be suitable for winter riding. <S> I have ridden extensively the past two winters with drop handlebars in ice and snow (Madison, WI). <S> I personally find that in rougher and slippery conditions, I prefer riding with my hands in the drop position. <S> It tends to give me better control while both giving me better access to the brakes and lowering my center of gravity a bit. <S> Despite snow and ice not traditionally considered commuting conditions, many choose to continue biking through the winter months. <S> There are some good resources online with the best compilation I've seen being Chicago Bike Winter site. . <S> Perhaps that is what the experienced cyclist was referring to. <A> Besides considering leverage as the only advantage of bicycling in icy and snowy temperatures, I would also consider the aspect of familiarity. <S> My first few rides in icy/snowy conditions were quite nerve-wracking: constantly sliding right off the shoulder into the chocolate mousse or the ditch. <S> I soon learned to avoid the treachery of the road shoulder and ride in the plowed area with the most asphalt exposed. <S> One of the things that I felt good about was that I knew my bicycle well, and I wasn't making flustered or nervous mistakes with hand placement. <S> So, I would recommend focusing on keeping your hands and feet warm during the ride so that you are not impacting your ability to react or distracted by your extremeties. <S> If it takes ziplock pogies and hand-warmers, or full-on BarMitts and Lake MXZs for your feet, being relaxed and perceptive to your conditions will make your ride safer than changing your ergonomics at the last minute. <S> And if you do ride in icy conditions and don't have studded tires, I would recommend those, too. <A> Seasoned winter cyclist here :-) <S> Drops and flats both work fine. <S> One consideration with flats is that you are more upright, and so less vulnerable to the classic "front wheel suddenly sliding off to one side" in the ice/snow.
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One caveat I will make is that bikes that traditionally have drop handlebars aren't viewed as being optimal winter bikes due to typically having thinner road-style tires. Handlebar Width: Drop bars tend to be narrower than flat bars.
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Looking for coat: shell front, fleece back Looking for a good fall/winter/spring coat. In my imagination it is: a hard raincoat type shell on the front of the jacket to block wind and fleece on the back to make it extremely breathable. Looking to use it in Ottawa, Ontario in temperatures between +5C to -10C (although that is flexible, I wouldn't mind having to layer or figure out something cooler for warmer weather). Bonus: It should also have some kind of reflective material. Does this coat exist? Where can I find it? <Q> Things like this are out there. <S> Look at the suppliers of mountaineering clothing as well as cycle manufacturers for innovative use of contrasting fabrics for ventilation. <S> I have an older model of this jacket: <S> http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-wind-shield-pullover?p=24991-0-425 <S> It treats me pretty well--wind-proof front, but with fleecy breathable arms and back. <A> Rivendell sells the MUSA Windshield , which covers the front of your torso. <S> This could be worn over a fleece base jacket. <A> In Europe, it is sold by Decathlon . <S> You can order it here <S> (I don't know if they deliver in Canada). <A> I am using an Endura Windchill . <S> Even though it does not fit your initial description, I have found it excellent for autumn/early winter use. <S> It has soft shell fabric in front, on top of arms and shoulders and even more breathable fabric in the back and under the arms. <S> I have worn it with a microfiber liner shirt and a thin merino middle layer at approximately 0 degrees Celsius with good results. <S> In slightly colder weather (around -5C) I replace the base layer with another merino shirt. <S> I expect to wear it for most of the winter with merino+fleece layers underneath. <S> Water resistance is excellent, it does not get soaked through even after several hours of moderate rain. <S> At the same time it breathes very well as it does not have a hard shell layer. <A> ski gear. <S> water prof, light weight, bright colors, and WARM. <S> my BURTON jacket even has a pocket made for an i-pod, and loops for headphone wires. <S> now how cool is that? <A> When I used to row I had the exact opposite top layer - a sleeveless gilet with a fleece front and a shell back (highlighting where water typically splashed up at you). <S> The gilet was long enough in the back to be able to be sat on while rocked over. <S> Given the hunched nature of the riding position when battling into a headwind in the rain, I've often worn this as the top layer on those inclement days. <A> I love Ibex stuff. <S> I have a vest similar to this - http://shop.ibex.com/Outlet/Mens/Momentum-Jacket <S> I own numerous ibex items <S> and I would highly recommend them. <S> In bright orange, it is highly visible and the $135 price tag for ibex is a steal.
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I believe that, in Canada, MEC carries Patagonia clothing. Wool on the back and the front is wind/rain resistant.
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Does anybody manufacture extra-wide (3E/4E or EEE/EEEE ) wide road or mountain biking shoes? I have mutant-wide feet and it's generally impossible to find comfortable shoes for any occasion. For the most part my only options in life are New Balance. I'm cycling a lot lately and would like to take advantage of cleats. So, does anybody actually manufacture 4E shoes? I'd rather not try stretching them out with mink oil/boiling water/wooden shoe stretchers and the pain from narrow shoes can be pretty excruciating. My google-fu is coming up with a few dozen forum discussions with no real solutions. <Q> Sidi make a wide fitting version of their shoes. <S> I have a pair of Sidi's and they have been the best fitting, most comfortable shoes I've ever found. <S> From their website : Mega sizes are cut with more material throughout, and a larger-volume heelcup. <S> Mega sizes roughly correspond to a EE/EEE width on the Brannock sizing scale. <S> Possibly still not wide enough for your needs <S> but they're worth checking out. <A> Yes, D2 Shoes will make you a custom extra-wide shoe. <S> Good info on the D2 Shoes website. <S> 41 sizes, 9 widths available. <S> $975 price tag is tough, but looks like D2 Shoes will manufacture you an extra wide road or mountain shoe. <S> The widest off the shelf bicycle shoe I could find is the Shimano SH-M087GE Mountain Bike Shoes. <S> The GE version is a wide version of the regular SH-M087G. <A> I have 4E feet and the only shoes that I have found that fit are Lake <A> Once met a guy who had had his shattered foot "reconstructed" with screws, etc, and it was about half-again as wide as his other foot. <S> He was riding in custom-reconstructed cycling shoes. <S> He told me that the cobbler took two regular bike shoes, cut them apart, and sewed them back together as one. <S> As I recall (it's been maybe eight years), the shoes had cleats, probably SPDs. <S> (Of course, I have no idea who did the work for him, but probably an outfit that does "orthopedic" shoes.) <A> The Tahoe From Specialized . <S> Note: this isn't a 'competitive' shoe; it's classified as recreational. <S> I ride a hybrid for fitness, and I wear 10.5 US 4E New Balances when I buy athletic shoes. <S> I paid $85 from a retailer <S> but I think you can get them cheaper. <S> The shoe works because of the construction. <S> They're built like Keen or Merrell sandals, meaning they wrap around your foot in a basket-like construction. <S> It's not a sandal though, in that the sides of the shoe have <S> strips of leather and nylon that flex around the toe box.(don't know if I'm using the right terms) <S> Again, I'm a fitness rider, and I need a versatile shoe for commutes and long rides. <S> And I've been wearing them on long rides for two weeks without any pain. <S> These have a pop-out section on the forefoot to accomodate a clip if you want to install one. <A> You may also want to check out <S> custom=made shoes from BONT . <S> They aren't cheap though! <A> It's also possible, if you have the tools and the inclination, to make your own from a pair of non-cycling shoes that already fit correctly. <S> Ideally these should have a flattish outsole (so they don't catch on the pedals) which is also thick enough to recess the cleats. <S> You'll still ideally want the stiff insole from a cycling shoe (as here ) to spread the pressure from the plate the cleats bolt onto. <S> So, you need a donor cycling shoe whose sole isn't too narrow, but at least it doesn't need to fit around your feet for this to work.
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I found a cheap pair of shoes from Specialized that are awesome for wide feet.
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How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur It's easy to calculate what capacity of a rear derailleur will be needed based on the size of the big and small chainring and the big and small cog. What about the converse question, how to calculate the capacity of a derailleur? I was comparing some short-cage rear derailleurs I have lying around, and I noticed that the cage length and pulley sizes varied enough that they probably had different capacities. Related question: is there a fairly comprehensive place to look these up? <Q> If you are asking how to calculate the maximum capacity of the chainrings and cogs, based on looking at the derailleur, then it's not going to be as easy as just looking at them. <S> HOWEVER, there are some standards for manufacturer, I have listed them below. <S> I have also included the formula to find out your capacities, since I misread your question initially and decided to answer the part you weren't concerned with. <S> I am not deleting it because, well, it took a while to type. <S> According to United Bicycle Institute: Determine Maximum Chainring Difference by subracting the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring Determine Maximum Cassette Cog Difference by subtracting the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog Determine Total Drivetrain Capacity by adding Maximum Chainring Difference to the Maximum Cassette Cog Difference Record <S> the Maximum Cassette Cog <S> (the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog) <S> For Shimano: <S> SS - Short Cage Road Double - Maximum Cassette Cog is 27 and Total Capacity is 29 <S> GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple <S> - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/27(Road) and Total Capacity is 33(MTB)/37(Road) <S> SGS - Long MTB - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity is 45 For SRAM: <S> Short - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34(MTB)/28(Road) and Total Capacity is 32(MTB)/31(Road) <S> Medium - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity is 37 <S> Long - Maximum Cassette Cog is 34 and Total Capacity is 45 For Campagnolo: <S> Short - Maximum Cassette Cog is 26 and Total Capacity is 27 <S> Medium - Maximum Cassette Cog is 29 and Total Capacity is 36 <S> Long - Maximum Cassette Cog is 29 and Total Capacity is 39 NOTE - <S> THIS INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE BY MANUFACTURER <S> And a great source for all of this is Sutherland's 7th edition http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/7th_Edition.html Hope that helps <A> You should be able to estimate the tooth capacity of a rear derailer by installing it on a bike, threading a chain through (and over a cluster), anchoring one end of the chain so it can't move, and pulling on the other end. <S> You'd first pull just enough to achieve "minimum" tension, then pull until the derailer was stretched close to tight. <S> Count the chain links that are pulled past a fixed spot (ie, don't just count how many links roll off the jockey wheel) as you pull between these two positions. <S> You'd probably want to try this 2-3 times on different cogs of the cluster. <S> Definitely takes a bit of judgment, but should come within 1-2 teeth of the "right" answer. <A> Some nice detail in the big answer there. <S> However I should add that on my fancy road bike, I'm running a Shimano Ultegra 6700 SS (i.e. short cage) <S> Derailleur on a 10 speed cassette that is 12-30. <S> (I have a compact 50-34 at the front.) <S> Not that I do, but crossing the chain isn't a problem either, except for rubbing on the front derailleur. <S> So I don't understand the limits that Shimano give, except for - either covering their asses if somethign does go <S> wrong- <S> or more likely, wanting to sell more kit on the back of incompatibility. <A> I'm building a new touring bike and finding the capacity specs far below what I've used on the old one I put together. <S> The crank is 44-20 and the cassette is 36-11, which is a 49 capacity. <S> It works perfectly with old friction shifters, and an extra long derailleur screw. <S> and yes, this low gearing really has been useful/necessary with a loaded bike in the mountains. <A> I have found that the length of the derailleur from the bolt centre (rear axle) to the first jockey-pulley's outer edge (when the derailleur is in its lowest gear), must be greater than the radius of the largest rear cog (with the chain on it), i.e. an RD M592 9-speed will work on a 40 tooth maximum cog but not on a 46 tooth maximum cog. <S> Thank you <A> The manufacturer's specs are total BS. <S> The max cog sizes and capacties <S> can he extended ALOT! <S> Flipping the B tension screw over can get a Shimano Short Cage RD up to 36t max cog size (vs 27t spec) and 39t is the real capacity (vs. 29t spec). <S> The Specs are leaning WAY TOO PARANOID on the safe side. <S> The manufacturers are TERRIFIED of lawsuits. <S> So in essence you are lost and at the mercy of blogs and youtube videos to find THE REAL SPECS. <S> Lacing up a chain <S> so the chain doesn't drag or drags just a tiny bit in small/small combo, then flipping the B tension screw <S> so the head of the screw leans against the derailer hanger stop and max extending it, and then experimenting with the max tooth count cassette cog that'll fit w/o the upper jockey pulley grinding the largest cassette in small/big and the chain not jamming in big/big shift will determine your true RD max cog size and total tooth capacity. <S> It's that simple.
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Finding a derailleur to fit your chainrings/cogs based on just the chainrings/cogs is going to be a lot easier than finding chainrings based on looking at your derailleur.
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What kind of tire should I purchase for use on a bike trainer? I am in the process of acquiring a bike trainer (likely CycleOps Fluid 2 ) for winter conditioning. Most of the reviews and other information I have read suggestion that a regular road tire will be damaged or quickly worn out on a trainer. What type of tires or specific models/brands should I look for use on a trainer? Should I get a different rear wheel/tire that I change out during the winter conditioning season? <Q> To make it easier on myself I purchased a cheap wheel on eBay and added a trainer specific tire such as the Continental Ultra Sport Hometrainer Tire. <S> When I used regular road tires, the rubber wore out quickly. <S> The trainer specific tire lasts much longer. <S> You do not want to run the trainer specific tire on the roads. <S> So having a spare wheel with cassette makes it easier to put on your normal wheel for those nice winter days. <A> Ask your friends to save theirs. <S> The slicker the tire (most worn <S> least tread=less noise) <S> the better. <S> If they only last a month that is only two or three changes per winter. <S> The plus is they are free and its better for the enviroment. <A> I've used both regular road tires and the newer style trainer tires over the last 10 years and have gone through 4 different turbo trainers over the time including actually carving a half centimetre tire size groove into a Tacx Cycleforce-One trainer. <S> I tend to find that with trainer tires the colder running rubber actually slips on a metal roller while putting in hard efforts and sprint efforts. <S> You really have to ask yourself the question- <S> Do you need a specific tyre for indoor cycling training? <S> I've never personally got on with the trainer tires and know a large number of riders who have bought a trainer tire, only to place it on eBay a number of months later and revert to traditional road tires. <A> A regular road tire will work fine, but you should keep it inflated and not press the roller bar up against it overly hard. <S> But there is no disadvantage to getting a really cheap tire and using it on the trainer -- it will work just as good as an expensive racing tire. <A> Either a cheap road tire, or some manufacturers sell a trainer specific tire. <S> Very smooth, hard and easy to get on and off. <S> These will last 2 - 4x longer than just a cheap tire. <S> Example trainer tire for $30 http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1069774_-1___
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I've found that a relatively inexpensive road tire provides a better adhesion to the roller for a more responsive training session for sprints. I use worn road tires that I've taken off my road bike.
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Life expectancy of a rim? I've erroneously bought a rim (hoping my technical English is right: the part of the wheel between the spokes and the tire). While I have no immediate use for it, shipping it back to the seller for refund would be a waste of shipping costs if I would need a new rim in the foreseeable future. I have been riding a Gazelle street bike for ~10 years now, and it is showing signs of wear along the periphery. In particular, I've recently discovered I've been negligient with checking the spokes of my rear wheel, which has been running some time with broken spokes. For the second time now in these 10 years. How long can I reasonably expect rims to last on a street bike? Will I be facing replacements sometime soon? <Q> Rims can last a very very long time. <S> The failure mode (other than from accidents) is simply the wearing-down of the brake surfaces over time ( see this question ). <S> Some rims designed for commuters have a groove in them that is designed to indicate wear. <S> When you can no longer see the groove, you know its time to replace the rim (might as well replace the wheel). <S> Here's an excellent description of rim wear. <A> In addition to brake wear there is the "slings and arrows of outrageous fortune" -- rocks, curbs, manhole covers, etc. <S> Generally hitting an obstacle head-on doesn't damage the rim (much) but, eg, just catching the edge of a raised manhole cover can ding the rim edge pretty well. <S> Plus, over time rough use can cause the spoke nipples to pull through the rim, and riding with broken spokes can distort the rim to where it becomes hard to true. <S> But if you're not rough on the rim and keep it properly trued it can last a long time. <S> I've generally gotten maybe 15,000 miles out of rims, and if they were replaced it was because I was relacing the wheels anyway and figured new rims <S> wouldn't hurt. <A> If you mistreat a rim, you can destroy it pretty quickly. <S> For winter riding in Toronto, I used to just accept I was going to destroy a mountain bike every 2-3 years. <S> One horrible MTB end of life event was climbing a hill in the snow and the steer tube just twisted into a figure 8 <S> and I went over the bars. <S> (Oddly enough my coworkers were driving by and dragged me into the office). <S> But the worst was a rim failure in traffic. <S> My brake pads, with all the winter grit accumulated had worn through the sides of the rim, and one last brake attempt and the pad locked into the rim, tearing off a strip of metal, and sending me over the handlebars. <S> I had enough sense as soon as I hit the ground to roll into the snow bank to avoid the cars. <S> Also, I was close enough to the office to carry the bike back, get some work dry clothes on and take a bus home. <S> But a rim can fail badly, if you treat it poorly. <S> It was entirely my own fault. <S> But winter riding can be hard on a bike, and hard to do proper maintenance.
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You can literally wear-away the rim surface with your brakes until the rim is too weak.
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Storing bicycle helmets...will temperature affect the performance of the helmet? I got into a discussion at home about where to best store our bicycle helmets. We store our bikes in the garage (a standalone, not attached to our apartment). So, logically and aesthetically my wife wants to store it in the garage.My argument against this is that our garage does not temperature control and we live in LA. I think that it can get pretty hot in there during certain times of the year and it can also get cold during other times (winter nights can go down to ~40 F (4.5C)). My question is whether these temperatures will affect the foam in the helmet in any way. I.e. will it degrade it's ability to provide protection. <Q> The cold won't hurt it -- foam is used to line refrigerators. <S> And certainly if the temp is going "all the way down" to 40F (shudder!) <S> that's not even close to a problem -- <S> around here it isn't even "cold" unless the temp is below zero F. <S> (In general, solid objects are not damaged by cold, though they do often become more brittle while cold and hence more apt to be damaged while in that state.) <S> The problem is that extended high temps over, say, 150F, won't degrade the rigid foam itself, but they will degrade the glues and the foam rubber liner. <A> I would be much more concerned about the potential damage from summer heat than cold. <S> The adhesives used will soften in the heat along with the drying of the foam inserts might comprimize the safety of the helmet. <S> Most manufacturers reccomend storing in a cool dry place out of sunlight. <S> They also suggest replacement after three years of use. <S> Most likely due to the degradation of the materials from sunlight exposure. <S> I would store it in the back of the closet when not in use,an alternative might be to keep it in your cooler if that is stored in the garage as it would be protected from sunlight and more temperature stable even when it is empty. <A> Not entirely convincing evidence, but Giro's website lists helmets under their cold weather riding section. <S> Also, the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute website (again, I can't vouch for their statements) list some temperature testing standards by country. <S> These temperatures are generally below freezing, but not as cold as it gets in some regions. <S> I would say that for regular riding in cold weather, a ski or snowboard helmet may be more appropriate. <S> Not the same type of activity, but the speeds and types of impacts that the helmets are designed for seem close enough. <A> Yes the cold will affect the foam! <S> OK it's a slightly facetious answer but as you say it's a separate garage how secure is it? <S> In the cold weather the local mice / rodents / what have you will love the foam and use it for bedding material. <S> Make sure it is securely stored otherwise it might get shredded. <S> I speak from experience! <A> You should also be concerned with the actual storage conditions - most helmet manufacturers recommend replacing an undamaged helmet every x years just because the foam degrades (largely due to UV light). <S> If it's going to be hanging on a wall in direct sunlight <S> there's going to be problems with UV light hitting it, and if you put it away in a dark corner of the garage <S> and it's wet (sweat, condensation, etc.) <S> you'll have issues with mold. <S> If you absolutely, positively have to store it your best bet may be to find a mesh bag (like they use for laundry), store a single helmet in that, and hang the bag up out of direct sunlight. <S> Of course, your best bet is just to ride all year long. :-) <A> Having lived in Toronto, I have kept my helmet in the attached garage, for year round riding with winter temps down to -20C being common, and summer temps of +30C being common. <S> I replace my helmets every couple of years, as others have noted the adhesives fail, though in my case, probably more from sweat corroding the glue than just the heat.
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High temps could be a problem, but again foam (very similar to the stuff used in helmets) is used to insulate homes, where attic temps may reach 150F or so, and it's used to insulate water heaters that run at 180F.
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What does a flashing yellow arrow traffic signal mean? While bike commuting in an urban setting, I've started noticing that some intersections have flashing yellow turn signals during part of the light cycle. What does this mean? If I am on my bike in the turn lane and a flashing arrow appears, can I proceed with the turn or should I wait for the arrow to turn green? <Q> Flashing yellow arrows have been introduced in the US recently to help ease congestion at intersections. <S> This signal should be treated similar to a yield sign or a turn lane not controlled by its own traffic signal. <S> If there is no oncoming traffic, you may make a left turn if it is safe to do so, but you must yield to any oncoming traffic and to any pedestrians in the crosswalk you would cross when turning. <S> Although laws vary regionally with regards to how bicycles are treated in traffic, in most cases a cyclist would handle this situation the same as any other vehicle. <S> If there is no oncoming, you can make a left turn, but be wary of traffic coming the other way. <S> It may be safer to wait if you don't have a full view of oncoming lanes <S> (i.e. if there is a blind corner or low visibility), since it will take you longer to clear the intersection than a motorized vehicle, and drivers coming the other way will not be expecting a bicycle in the intersection during their green light cycle. <S> This animation from the Alaska DOT shows how the flashing yellow arrow sequence works: <A> As always, it might differ from state to state, but at least in CA the meaning of flashing yellow has been established for a long while already: flashing yellow is equivalent to "yield" sign, just like flashing red is equivalent to "stop" sign. <S> The fact that it is an arrow specifically makes no difference whatsoever - it simply means that the signal applies to the specific direction the arrow is pointing to. <S> When you see a flashing red arrow, it means that you are allowed to proceed in that direction after making a full stop (and, of course, yielding the right of way to the interfering traffic). <S> When you see a flashing yellow arrow, you are allowed to proceed in that direction with no mandatory full stop requirement (you still have to yield the right of way to the interfering traffic). <S> So, on a busy street the won't be much practical difference between a flashing red arrow and flashing yellow arrow. <S> On an empty street the difference is quite noticeable: yellow arrow allows you to ride right through, while the red one still requires you to make a full stop before turning. <S> Note that flashing yellow left arrow dictates the same turning procedure that shall be followed in case when no arrow is present at all and <S> the light for going straight is green: you can take the turn after yielding to the oncoming traffic. <S> Flashing yellow just makes it more explicit. <S> For example, imagine an intersection equipped with red and green arrows for the left turn. <S> People who drive through that intersection often would get used to waiting for the green arrow to make the left turn (with red arrow lit up at all other times). <S> Let's say one day the traffic authorities decided that under some circumstances it is OK to allow a non-protected left turn at that intersection <S> (i.e. a turn without a green arrow). <S> How can they do that? <S> Formally, all they need to do is to turn off the red arrow from time to time (without lighting up the green one, of course). <S> However, many people will still continue to wait for the green arrow purely out of habit. <S> And that's where the blinking yellow helps: it tells them explicitly that they are allowed to proceed after yielding. <A> The main difference is the meaning given to drivers who are NOT turning left. <S> The circular green releases other movements in addition to the left turn. <S> The flashing yellow arrow does not. <S> This allows the flashing yellow arrow to be used when the circular indications are red.
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For left turning drivers, the flashing yellow arrow means the same thing as a circular green light: Yield to oncoming traffic and pedestrians.
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How far do I “pull over” in a bike lane? If I am riding down a marked bike lane on a road which is adjacent to the curb, and I need to stop for a very short time (e.g. to adjust something, turn on lights, or drink some water), how far should I get off the road? That is: As a car driver, if I had to stop I would move onto the shoulder of the road, or otherwise as far right ( US, drive on the right ) as is safe for the vehicle. With a bicycle lane, there is no specific shoulder, but I can pick up the bike and move off the road entirely. Should I take the time to do so, even if there is essentially no traffic? What if the lane is especially wide (e.g. if it is a bicycle lane to the left of parking space, but with no cars actually present), or if it is only a generously wide road without any markings? (I am looking for a safety and politeness perspective, not regional traffic laws, though if there is a general trend in law on the matter that is also useful information.) <Q> Please don't block the bike lane or traffic or parking spaces, but use your best judgement; in that order. <S> Personally I feel a curb is a logical and physical barrier which protects you from the activities of the traffic way. <S> Protection Getting on a curb means a car that hits you has already been slowed down by a 6 in. <S> cement block applied up to 4 times (4 tires) against the cars momentum. <S> Ever see a car hit a curb? <S> Sure they can plow over it, but they definitely slow down, and change direction. <S> When riding you have several options to evade, but when on foot you are much slower/less agile. <S> Use the curb as a natural defense. <S> Also, I'm not a law expert <S> but I'm sure there are better legal protections for being off the road with regards to this matter. <S> Courtesy <S> Do you look everywhere and try to decide what everyone will do before they do it while riding. <S> I sure hope you do, it will help keep you safe if you can anticipate situations, both while riding and while driving. <S> If you remove yourself from the bike lane you become a non-player to those using the traffic ways. <S> The cars don't have to decide if you might fall over while mounting/dismounting/precariously balancing while tying shoes etc. <S> Like wise for bikers, will you see them when you decide to start? <S> How straight will your line be when you do start etc. <S> Even if you pull over far and look before you start up, you have forced others to do the extra work of thinking through possible scenarios and possibly slowing down, changing lanes or changing routes around a block where you are 'pulled over'. <S> If you are on a long straight away with no intersections and you can anticipate the traffic for the next 2 min, and you will only take 20secs then who cares. <S> If you don't see anyone, but a car could pull up from around the block in less than 10 secs even though it seems dead you should probably just get over the curb. <A> If there is any possibility of bike traffic, you should pull over sufficiently to allow others to pass with reasonable ease. <S> If there is fairly heavy 2-way traffic you should pull over enough to allow two bikes to pass in opposite directions at the same time. <S> The longer you anticipate stopping the farther over you should pull. <S> If you need to do significant adjustments of your bike you should attempt to get entirely out of the bike lane. <A> If there is a curb, I like to use it as a step <S> so I ride right up next to it and unclick from my pedal and step on the curb while staying seated on the bicycle. <S> If there is no curb, I will move all the way to the right and get off the bicycle and get off the bike lane all together typically where there is a sign or telephone pole so I can lean my bicycle up against it. <S> If in a bike lane that is separated from the curb by parking spaces (for cars), I will ride to the end of the block and move over to the curb. <A> I think it depends on several factors, as you note. <S> If there is no traffic (car or bicycle), then just stop (if a tree falls in the woods...). <S> If there is car traffic only, then move as far to the right as to can to be safely out of the way.
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If there is bicycle traffic, then it might be worthwhile to move completely out of the bike lane to avoid hindering other cyclists. Of course, to a degree it depends on how long you will be stopped.
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Can I use a hybrid bike tire on my mountain bike? I got a Merida Matts 20 D frame size 18. I want to use a hybrid bike tire. Can I? The current tire is 26*2.1 Do I also need to change the rim? <Q> So in your case you need a tire labeled 26, with a width of roughly 1.3 to 2.8. <S> But likely if you go much wider than your current tire you'll experience interference problems. <S> Whether the tire is labeled "hybrid" or "mountain" or even "road" makes no difference. <S> (Though certain types tend to come in certain sizes -- you won't find many 26 inch racing tires, eg.) <A> There are three restrictions to use different tires: tire diameter: 24", 26", 28" - is not the same. <S> Diameter always mention right on the tire width of frame's leaf. <S> Tire should fit it this space the wheel base. <S> In general, if you are talking about the tires with the same diameter the 2) and 3) are fine (almost always. <S> But it can be some issues with very wide tires). <S> Concerning your question. <S> Hybrid has 28" and MTB has 26" wheels. <S> Thus you can not use hybrid's tires. <A> As long as the tyre diameters are the same, you will be fine. <S> Most 26" tyres will work with most of 26" rims. <S> Most of hybrid tyres are 700mm diameter (28") and that will not work on 26" MTB wheels, so be aware of that.
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So long as the tire diameter (rim size, as stamped on the side of the tire) is the same, and the width is no more than about 30% wider or narrower than the original, and so long as the tire doesn't create interference problems with the frame or brakes, it should be fine.
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Air compressor to fill up to 60 PSI I am looking for an air compressor and wish to get one which is not under or over powered. I am looking at one in a catalogue which has the following attributes: 40 Litres/min free air delivery1hp motorDirect drive design (what ever that means)8 Litre tank capacity I wish to fill tyres at home for my hybrid bikes and mountain bikes up to 60PSI. I will be using a product call "Prestaflator", which is the air trigger with guage and presta valve connector. I am not asking about floor pumps. <Q> Don't bother with an air compressor. <S> Get a proper bike pump. <S> They are cheaper, and will fill a tire to 60 psi with minimal effort. <S> Also it'll only take a couple pumps to top up your tires. <S> Much less time than to drag out a big air compressor. <S> Have you had problems with standard floor/track pumps? <S> What is your reasoning for getting an air compressor over using a bike pump? <A> The liters/minute capacity of a compressor says nothing about it's max pressure. <S> Most compressors intended for air tool use are good to about 100psi, maybe 120, but you need to make sure before you spend your money -- the compressor needs to do maybe 30% higher pressure than your "target" pressure, or you'll be forever waiting for the tires to fill. <S> But as others have said, a good floor pump is probably easier to use than the compressor. <S> ("Direct drive" means there's no belt, which is not necessarily a good thing, but common for "compact" compressors.) <A> Personally I also prefer the floor pump, but, sometimes I use a car tire emergency compressor. <S> It Connects to the cicarrete lighter plug, and it is slow, but a bike tire has such small volume that it can be easily imflated in 3-4 minutes from zero, almost the same time that whould take with an average old floor pump, but almost zero effort from the operator. <S> I have tried many brands, and for bike tires all of them worked fine and all were capable of 60psi+. <S> This can be an option that saves you space, these kind of "compressors" are really compact. <S> Inflators meant for beach imflatables or balloons are not an option either, they have even less power. <S> I have a small 3.5 gallon compresor (the tank is small, the motor is the same as a bigger, profesional model of the same brand) that is fine for even car's tires, it's really fast on bike tires, but since I don't have permanent workshop facilities, storing the compressor awary after each use takes longer than the tire imflation, and takes a bigger effort, so I ended preffering the floor pump. <S> (Use the compressor just for air tools). <S> It also makes tremendous noise so it bothers neighbors and other household companions <S> (It's not rare for me to imflate bike tires really early in the morning or really late at night). <S> Other point to consider is adding the compressor's maintenance to your agenda. <S> So take these in consideration, you may purchase a bigger hassle just in order to inflate bike tires. <S> A floor pump, a hand pump, a foot pump are all very compact and portable and are powered by you, therefore more ecologic. <S> They are almost noiseless. <S> Also, if you bike for execise, pumping helps for the warm-up ;)
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I really would advise you out of tankless compressors meant for paint jobs or aerograph use, they usually are not powerfull enough. A good bike pump will also require less maintenance.
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How do you spot the left side pedal on egg beater pedals? I've just got a new set of crank brothers egg beater pedals and I can't tell which pedal is for the left side, and which is for the right just from looking at them. Is there an obvious way to tell without simply trying to screw them in? Update: There isn't an obvious L and R that I (or another pair of eyes) could see. The only text I could see was really fine print that mentioned the torque to put the pedals in. I couldn't see anything in the instructions that appeared to say which one was which either. <Q> This is from the Crank Brothers pdf available on their site or in the package: Eggbeater pedals have either a 6mm Hex, an 8mm Hex, and/or 15mm wrench flats. <S> Note that the right pedal has a standard right-handed thread and the left pedal has a left-handed thread . <S> For identification, left pedal has a small “L” on the spindle or a small groove around the spindle flange. <S> The right pedal has a small "R" stamped in the spindle or no special markings. <S> In my case there was no "L" on the spindle, but there is a small groove around the left spindle flange. <S> The link: http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/product_documentation/instructions_eggbeater.pdf <A> If they aren't marked with a big L and R, you could just inspect the threads. <S> You can tell reverse threads because they are oriented toward the north-west rather than the north-east. <A> Looking from the top down standing over the bike and holding the pedals in the way they should go into the cranks, the threads of the left pedal angle like this (towards the left side crank): ///// <S> The threads of the right pedal angle like this (towards the right side crank): \\\\\ Both pedals thread in to the front and out to the rear. <A> When you remove your old pedals look at the first one you remove. <S> Compare the threads with one of your new ones,you should be able to notice that the threads are not perpendicular to the shaft but have a slight angle. <S> The angles should appear to be different between the two new pedals,one leaning left one leaning right. <S> If you have removed only one of your old pedals you can match the threads and install the new one. <S> Then remove the second and install the other new one. <S> If they are marked just remember left is referenced to you sitting on the bike. <A> On the pedal spindle, right after the threads, there is a 1/4" wide smooth metal bushing. <S> One will be totally smooth, the other will have a thin groove in the center. <S> The left pedal will have the groove. <A> "Right after the threads??"Maybe you're saying the solution is like this: Hold one pedal with the platform part in your left hand with the spindle (the black part with the threads thst screws into the crank arm) pointing to the right. <S> Immediately to the left of the threads, check the largest diameter part of the spindle (the black part that screws in). <S> Only one of the two pedals will have a groove cut into it.
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Whichever one has reverse threads is the left pedal.
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Did any manufacturer ever try using more, but lighter spokes to minimize weight? Wheels generally used to have more spokes. As technology improved and markets changed, manufacturers have taken to making wheels with fewer (and often heavier spokes). I've been told this comes at the expense of having a slightly heavier rim to maintain strength and stiffness. I realize that aerodynamics generally has more impact on performance than shaving a few grams, but I was wondering if any manufacturer ever tried making wheels with more, but finer spokes, perhaps to save on rim weight rather than spoke weight. Was this ever done? <Q> To the best of my knowledge, and my ability to find reference in any old catalog or tech manual, no, that concept has not been tried on a commercial scale at least. <S> It may have been tried on a local scale. <S> I know that spokes <S> thinner than 1.8mm have a far greater likelihood of breakage. <S> The butted 2.0/1.5mm spokes which were popular in the late 90's for XC racing wheels proved that to me. <S> Perhaps we could get the Math or engineering SE guys to comment here? <A> Another thing to consider in the question of weight of a bicycle wheel is the distribution of the weight and the effect it has on its rotational inertia. <S> A wheel with fewer spokes and deeper rim profile (typically necessary to handle having fewer spokes) will be more efficient in terms of aerodynamics, but will be more difficult for the rider to accelerate. <S> Losing a few grams at the outside of a wheel can make a huge difference in how a bicycle feels even to a non-professional. <S> Finer spokes have been done to varying degrees over the years, but are limited by material and the need for adjusting tension during the building process and ongoing maintenance. <S> Spokes need strength most at the mounting points (traditionally a threaded nipple and J-bend). <S> Also depending on the adjustment method (threaded nipple, etc...) <S> a spoke must resist that twisting motion or have provisions to allow it to be held stationary while the nipple is adjusted. <S> Double or even triple butted spokes are an attempt to concentrate material where it is needed the most, but at a higher cost of manufacture and less durability due to susceptibility to material flaws and excess work hardening in some cases. <S> Also, I am kind of fuzzy on this, but I seem to recall either Shimano or Zipp stating that the tipping point for number of round spokes to have an aerodynamics effect was 16 or 12. <S> Any number above that did not have any significant difference in changing aero effects. <S> Regardless it was a pretty low number. <S> Long story short, wheel/rim/spoke combinations can make a huge difference in the feel, durability and price of your bicycling experience and due to the huge variability in riding style and preference, no one combination is the perfect answer for all riders in all situations. <A> Besides the added hub and nipple weight, the rim would be weaker from the extra holes. <S> Less holes in the rim, the stiffer the rim actually is. <S> So less spokes is actually better. <S> To a point of course. <S> Even carbon tri spoke HED3 wheels are only a little lighter than a nice spoked wheel.
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I don't have the math to prove it, but I suspect the balance point between how thin the spokes would need to be to reduce the weight enough to offset the additional weight of more spokes, and the tensile strength those spokes would require to maintain the strength of the wheel without breaking would prevent any weight benefit from being gained, and
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How does one revitalize chrome lugging without harming the finish of the paint? I have an older bike that's in the middle of being rebuilt and I need to take care of the chrome. The paint is still on the bike so I need to be careful of any chemical or physical processes that may discolor or destroy the finish. How can I best get that mirror finish back on my pitted lugs? <Q> Don't apply it with anything so harsh as wire wool or a scourer, just the impregnated wadding that comes with the product. <S> Unfortunately Brasso in the states is a slightly different composition so I can't vouch for it's efficacy. <A> 0000 steel wool and elbow grease, follow with a chrome polish. <A> I've read that using damp aluminum foil is the ticket. <S> Check this out : <S> common way to clean a rusted chrome surface such as a fender is to use a fine steel wool. <S> However, when you use this method you have to use a lot of elbow grease <S> and you still end up with a slightly dull surface with some amount of scratching not to mention the messy 'dust' left over from the steel wool. <S> That's because you are physically scraping off the rust. <S> When you use the aluminum foil method you are dissolving the rust chemically so you don't need to rub nearly as hard and since the aluminum foil is softer than the chrome, you are left with few if any scratches. <S> This method also allows you to get the rust out of some minor pitting without having to dig into the surface. <A> If there are more stubborn specs of rust, try a mild solvent and something more abrasive. <S> In this case, try to stay away from the clearer areas because you'll leave a lot of small scratches that would need to be polished out later. <A> Rub it with some naval jelly and let it sit for a few minutes before attacking it with the steel wool. <S> Wear rubber (not the thin ones, either <S> ) gloves when using this stuff. <S> Follow the instructions on the package carefully. <S> Naval jelly is a "Lock-tite" product. <S> If my memory serves, it's active ingredient is phosphoric acid. <S> Takes off rust like nothing else.
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Although I'm sure you could find a chrome-specific polish, you could try using polish for steel cookware (from the hardware store), baking soda and a damp cloth, or even tooth paste. In the UK I've had success with Brasso , a cloth and lots and lots of elbow grease.
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Why not place the cleats further back on the foot? I've found a number of articles saying there is no advantage in having the cleat under the ball of your foot as opposed to further back towards the arch. The reasoning is that the calf muscle is not suited for endurance efforts and shouldn't be overused while cycling. Most of a cyclist's power comes from the quads, glutes and hamstrings - the lower leg only connecting to the pedal and stabilising what happens above. It doesn't contribute enough to justify its energy expenditure. The idea is there will be more oxygen/fuel left for the bigger muscle groups. Side benefits include a reduction in the overall height on the bike for better aerodynamics and hopefully the elimination of my recurring Achilles tendinitis. This really resonates with me, as I often get sore calves, even when I have positioned the cleat as far back as possible on my shoes. Is anyone aware of any research or information supporting a more forward location for the cleat? <Q> First off, i question why anyone thinks the calf muscle is not suited for endurance. <S> Its a very active component of running, biking, jumping and so on. <S> The arch of your foot is soft, and where tendons stretch across. <S> A cleat in your arch would cause massive pain over time. <S> Additionally, the clipped in pedal motion for ideal power is a triangle. <S> Push down, scrape back. <S> This backward pull would be difficult from the arch, and not very fluid feeling. <S> Also likely causing other injuries. <S> I am not a doctor, medical professional or trained in physical therapies. <S> Just an avid cyclist that pushes 4500 miles a year, 2 - 3 centuries on a road bike and several other mountain bike events annually. <A> Toe overlap due to feet being further forward is only an issue at low speeds - you don't corner by turning the bars, you lean. <S> It's not that the calf muscle is not suited to endurance, the issue is that it is contributing very little actual power during the pedal stroke (it's just stabilising) and yet it is using up energy that would be better saved for the 'worker' muscles. <S> Properly-fitted stiff-soled cycling shoes basically negate the ball/arch pain comparison. <S> Midfoot is not suited to sprint events or crits where rapid changes of pace occur - it's suited to steady state events - TT, Triathlon, Audax, etc. <S> Something like 6 out of top 10 Kona Ironman finishers were using midfoot. <S> The winner and second place of RAAM both use midfoot. <S> Anyway, I'm shortly going to be testing midfoot for long distance time trials, you can read about any progress (good/bad) here . <A> There is a school of thought that advocates the mid-foot position. <S> A longtime friend of mine (and doctor) who does a lot of singlespeed, high-torque endurance riding brought the Biomac website to my attention back in 2009. <S> Their developer Götz Heine is an ex pro, and chiropractor. <S> Joe Friel has also favourably reviewed the Biomac shoes. <S> Personally I started migrating my cleats backwards from the ball of the foot in 2005 and it took four years to move them as far back as they will go in off-the-peg shoes. <S> It hasn't made a difference to my feet; the cleat nearer the arch causes no pain when used with a stiff (carbon-soled) shoe. <S> Subjectively it does however ease the stretch in my calves and I now get less cramp during 12 and 24-hour solo race efforts. <S> I realise that's hardly scientific evidence, but the cleat range on off-the-peg cycling shoes won't allow you to move the cleats far enough back to harm yourself, so trying it for yourself is perfectly feasible. <S> Be aware that it does take time for your muscles to adapt to the new position and your feet to learn where the pedals are, so just going out for a couple of hours isn't the basis for making the decision. <A> I tried it. <S> I moved the cleat to the furthest rear position. <S> It seems ok for seated pedalling. <S> However, when standing up, it just seems wrong <S> and I can't get any power out of it. <S> Basically, the balance on the bike just isn't working for me. <A> Try sprinting with foot back at the pedal. <S> Is it possible? <S> I hardly think so. <S> For racers, mountain bikers, who have to shift their riding position depending on the approaching terrain, there cannot rely on hard and fast rule to where to position, unless its clipped. <S> The position can(and should) vary. <S> For a road cyclists who is sprinting, it will be a worst nightmare if he thinks he can sprint with foot far back at cleat. <S> I tried it once, sprained my ankle, out for weeks :(
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The ball of your foot can take hours of running, biking and other activity with high pressure. I think this depends on type of ride, and what's the riders style. For a downhill, placing your feet at the back will help you shift you weight towards back, may be helpful at some slopes.
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Rear red light with seat bag My bike has this red reflective light right below the seat (I don't know its name), and I'm thinking of buying a seat bag such as this one . Won't the light be covered? Isn't this potentially dangerous? How does one fix it normally? <Q> The reflective brand name tab on the rear of that seat bag is a light holder. <S> You will most likely need to remove the light from the seat post. <S> Hopefully it has a clip styled mount, otherwise you can get a light that has a clip mount. <A> I would assume the bag is designed to fill most space available, and hence would obstruct the existing light. <A> It's a little sad that the bag doesn't come with a proper reflector, but a clip-on unit can be added, as suggested. <S> The flashing red LED clip-on tail lights are quite inexpensive, will run continuously for a week or two on one set of batteries, and are well worth the investment, though make sure that there is at least some degree of passive reflector function in the clip-on and/or the cloth of the bag as well.
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If it's only reflective you have currently, then you might want to buy a separate battery operated active light, and place it below the bag on the stem.
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How helpful are neon/led lights on the rims, while riding at night? Recently I saw few cyclists at night with blue neon lights attached to the spokes on their rims. They just kept one each at the back, so it wasn't that effective. But having at least 2 of such lights (both front and back) can make a rider very visible at night and avoid possible dangers. The riding style I am talking about is for both commuting or trailing at night. How effective are these lights? <Q> The motion of the light is what does the work, the colour is less important as long as its bright. <S> A valve light will describe a "flattened corkscrew" through the air and is obviously different to any other vehicle on the road - which means you get perceived by driver's conscious brains not just their subconscious or autonomous brains. <S> These things are brilliant because they're not powered, and reflect a lot of light. <S> They're also lightweight and forgettable. <S> http://www.dx.com/p/bike-wheel-spoke-abs-safety-reflective-tube-reflector-grey-12-pcs-228130#.VplvhW8y-Cg <S> Check your legalities too - here its illegal to show a blue light on the road at any time unless you're police. <S> Likewise green lights are reserved for doctors on urgent medical callouts (although this is very rare now.) <S> Anyone can run a flashing or steady yellow light in any direction, but red lights can only show to the rear and white lights can only show "in the direction of motion" which is why car reversing lights can be white. <S> The same rules go for reflectors, which means my white spoke reflectors are "technically" illegal because they can be seen as white from the rear. <S> "Ice white" headlights are in a fuzzy area, as are illuminated adverts on buses and taxis that feature these specific colours. <A> Anything that makes you more visible is helpful. <S> Look at the Monkeylectric lights, in my opinion those are the best ones on the market at this point in time. <A> Certainly you should at least have wheel reflectors if you ride on roads at night. <S> Most auto/bike accidents are not due to "overtaking" but occur at intersections and driveways, so side visibility is important. <S> And some sort of light or reflector on the wheels is much more effective than on the fixed part of the bike, since the motion gets your attention quickly. <S> The question would be what style of light/reflector is reasonably bright/effective while not weighing too much or being too bulky and not requiring frequent battery changes. <S> The light needs to be steady or rapidly flashing, as a slow-flashing moving light will be more disorienting than effective. <S> And, of course, turning them on/off is an issue. <S> They could be centrifugally activated, but then they would tend to go dark when you slowed substantially, probably not a good idea. <A> It's more useful on roads that are not lit <S> and I have since purchased a high-visibility vest which should make me glow and be impossible to ignore. <A> A lot of small, lightweight lights simply aren't very bright and are about as ineffective as low-quality reflectors. <S> Without seeing the lights or knowing some specifications about them, it's hard to gauge. <S> You may be better off with high quality reflectors combined with bright, side-facing flashes attached to the frame. <A> The net result is that you will have high visibility to the sides (left and right) of your bike. <S> So laterally, these lights are quite effective. <S> Add front and back lights. <S> You'll be good to go.
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This mainly depends on how bright the lights are. I find that at night, cars that are joining the road perpendicular to my direction of travel tend to notice me more because my front and back lights don't give much light sideways. I use a single red light on my rear spokes.
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Full suspension or hardtail for offroad in South Wales I mountain bike in the hills of South Wales. I am due a new bike and have been riding a 17kg full sus for a few years now. I mostly ride 15-20 miles every week (hopefully more when the summer arrives) of moderatley technical terrain and the occasional trail center and big ride. I'm of average skill and a fairly hefty guy at 14.5 stone and often give the bike a good few knocks and abuse. I cannot decide whether to buy a full suspension or hardtail bike. My budget is £1000. There are a few half decent full sus' bike around for under this with the current sales. Also a load of really good hardtails. Can anyone point me towards something suitable? <Q> Yes there are a few full suspensions in that range, they will be heavy, and mid to low level parts. <S> Saving a bit longer and waiting (hard i know) <S> Maybe £1200 - 1500 would get you much further. <S> Your current bike is 17kg. <S> a £1000 bike may only save you 1 - 2 kg. <S> A nice hard tail within your budget would be very light (12 - 13kg) <S> Another option would be a 29er. <S> the bigger wheels, and high volume tires will really help with overall comfort and capabilities on rocky technical trails, while still being fast and lighter than the full suspension in that range (but likely still 14 - 15kg) <A> You seem to be forgetting the second-hand market, a grand can get you a fantastic 2-3yr old bike of any variety. <S> If it was my money, I would much rather have a 2yr old bike that was worth £2.5K new, than a £1K new bike. <S> Paint scratches don't affect the ride . <A> This ground has been covered a couple of times, probably best here . <S> You say in the comment to Matt Adams that this will be purchased through a cycle to work scheme - if you are planning on using it to commute at all I would strongly recommend a hard-tail over a similarly priced full suspension bike for the following reasons: <S> The hardtail will likely have a higher level of components and possibly a better front shock because of the increased expense associated with the full suspension frame. <S> Unless you can lock out the rear suspension, you will have higher pedal efficiency on the hardtail. <S> For commuting, the hardtail will better accommodate fenders and a rack, which are huge improvements to commuting comfort. <S> Your style of riding may dictate that an full-suspension is appropriate, so the best thing to do would be to describe how you want to ride to the professionals at your local bike shop and listen to their advice.
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The hardtail will be substantially lighter than a comparably priced full-suspension bike.
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What's the beefiest front shock (26"), avail in quick release, with travel of 100-125mm (no more)? Details: I mostly enjoy XC and all mountain riding. However, I also from time to time, will go out with friends on some much more intense downhill trails. I'm also about 240 pounds, give or take. So, while I really really like my bike, and the geometry is fine (as far as I'm concerned) even for some downhill. The fork I'm running now is an older Fox 125 RL. But, being 245# and bombing downhill really makes me nervous. Since my bike is pretty high-end (titanium fame, King/Thomson/Race Face.....etc), I'd like to just (if possible....and maybe it isn't) add a really, really solid fork up front. Weight it not an issue (for obvious reasons). Geometry obviously is, as the bike is designed for 80-100 travel up front. I go 125....but that's it. Is there such a thing as a fork with 36mm or larger uppers with only 125mm or less travel?? Hope I can turn this xc bike into one that can handle anything thrown at it with my 245# riding. ?? <Q> You could look into dirt jump forks, such as the Marzocchi Dirt Jump or the RockShox Argyle . <S> There aren't too many options left for burly forks with 9mm quick release drop-outs. <S> Email <S> their support and describe your use case (avoiding terms like 'hucking' or '6 foot drop to flat' unless applicable). <S> I would be more worried about an XC frame and wheelset failing than a modern suspension fork from a reputable brand. <A> The fox shox are really hard to beat. <S> I was 230 at one point and really threw a lot at my RL. <S> Keep the air pressure up to the right PSI for your weight and lube those stanchions with a teflon lube. <S> You'll get a decade of use out of that fork. <A> Fox forks are much better now they've beefed up the skewer to something similar to rockshox's maxle <S> and I'd say that you'd benefit from having something like that. <S> I don't know what hubs you're running but plenty of hubs now have conversion kits to go from QR to a maxle.
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Honestly though, Fox makes some nice forks. Rockshox's pike comes with a 20mm maxle and stiffens the forks up no end.
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Is it possible/sensible to add a suspension fork to an old mountain bike? I have a ~1993 Giant mountain bike. It's not great, but I am a very new and casual rider. The bike has a solid fork and it makes for the predictable rough trail ride. The trails are generally fairly modest (I live in North Texas, a 100' change in altitude makes our ears pop here) and the surface is generally dirt (very few rocky areas). So, I am thinking that it would be very nice to have a suspension bike. And seeing that a modest fork can be purchased for a modest price, I am wondering if it makes sense to add a fork to this bike. This question asked about going the other direction, and there were some cautionary words about changing steering geometry. So, on balance, is this something that I would be best off to avoid? I suspect that if I have to replace a bunch of steering parts, the cost will quickly approach that of a new low end bike. <Q> I would consider looking at a used later model bike. <S> The improvements made in the last 18 years are worth the money. <S> A decent fork can run hundreds of dollars not including installation. <S> Bikepedia is a good reference to make sure you have an idea what the bike cost new. <S> Also check the minimum inflation recommended for your tires and run them softer than you have been,this will cushion some of the bumps. <S> Be careful of really lowend bikes from the big box stores Walmart etc. <S> a really cheap shock with no dampening or adjustment is worse than no shock. <A> Old rigid mountain bikes[1] commonly have a 1" headset while modern suspension bikes have a 1 1/8" diameter headset. <S> Suspension forks are mostly for 1 1/8" headsets so fitting suspension to an old rigid mountain bike is normally a non starter for that simple reason. <S> The geometry is another good reason and may in fact be part of the reason that bike manufacturers decided to use the different diameter, to prevent the conversion of bikes that weren't designed to bounce. <S> It may also be that with the wider tubes they can take more load allowing the bikes to take more of a beating. <S> Of course it all could be a conspiracy to take our money, but honestly, I think the technology has just changed. <S> In general I'd recommend keeping the old bike for getting about and getting a newer bike for doing the more hardcore stuff. <S> Brake technology has improved dramatically, the bike frames are built stronger and lighter, and the gears generally shift smoother and more reliably. <S> And that's trickled down quite nicely to the cheaper bikes too. <S> There is a limit to how cheap you want to go for doing proper off road, but you don't have to spend too much. <S> [1] Note that there are still new bikes manufactured with 1" diameter headsets, but they are normally cheap rigid bikes. <A> I'd suggest that you might be happier with a pair of "suspension tires" – find the biggest tires that will fit, you'll be able to run them at relatively low pressure which will give you a decent amount of suspension. <S> If you've already got large tires on the bike, then check the pressure – you may be running them with too much pressure, with something like a 26 x 2.0 tire you could probably run something like 30-50 psi / 2.5-3.5 bar. <S> These pressure charts from Schwalbe and Bontrager will give you a better sense of the range. <A> The above answers are correct and the tread is now as old as the topic (almost). <S> But they do make 1" suspension forks - and you can find an upscale one from about $70.A bigger question <S> is <S> whether it's worth it based on the selling price of the result - there is a good reason why this doesn't matter. <S> Some earlier model bikes that you can pick up for literally $20 if you have eagle eyes and frequent yard sales, have a frame that is worth more than $100 if you strip all the parts off. <S> Those would be high-end Japanese cromo double-butted (or triple-butted) that are literally 3X stronger than aluminum and only about 3# heavier. <S> The equivalent frame on the cheapest new MB will set you back $1500 as of 2015.Two or three more things - there is the panache of having an old Giant Iguana like mine. <S> They actually have a glass coating instead of paint, which is unique for that factory. <S> And, after doing the research and riding a like-new example with the usual upgrades - I would not dream of wanting to slap on another 15 pounds on the front end. <S> That's especially critical when riding in shallow soft sand - the balance has to go to the rear. <S> Because of that fork, this bike is wonderfully maneuverable. <S> But it will jar your teeth on hard washboard or worse. <S> (Solution: <S> more bikes!)The DB cromo frames themselves are flexible, unlike the oversized aluminum tubes. <S> It gives these old bikes a very subtle "aliveness" that aluminum - no matter the price - can never have. <S> Expensive MB's feel solid - but underneath that feel distinctly dead to road (and sidewalk) <S> feel - missing that "old track-bike" feel. <S> Also, very important, I don't worry as much when I park it in front of the store. <S> It's "worth" less than a new Wallymart sprung special "and everyone knows it. <S> " They don't have a clue about this stuff, until they hear me ring the frame (they ring like a bell) and hear about that glass coating.... <S> And of course those frames will survive welding, will keep threads, and won't crack or bend as easily. <S> Very cool.
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Check with your local bike shop for used bikes or craigs list if you keep it local so you can see before you buy. An alternative might be to install the biggest 26 inch tires you can fit in your frame and lower the tire pressure to get more shock absorbtion. One of the main problems with converting an old bike is the width of the headset.
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Dealing with very juddery cantilever brakes I'm a commuter with a ~13m daily round-trip. I've been riding this on an MTB for 8 years, but I'm looking to upgrade. I recently tried out a 2012 model Specialized Tricross; this having been recommended as a road bike that retains the commuter niceties (rack/mudguard mounts, etc) and can handle the light gravel tracks that form part of my route. I love the bike, but I found one fundamental problem: The cantilever brakes set off this (initially) terrifying judder under pressure. On one downhill section, I couldn't brake enough to stop accelerating without this vibration running through the whole bike (and me), massively increasing my stopping distance. As a commuter in Oxford, being able to stop quickly and confidently is a must; something I've always been able to maintain with the V-brakes I'm used to. Back at the shop I was told that the judder is something that all CX bikes share, and that it might have been accentuated by the fact I was on a fresh bike on wet roads. I've also read that softer shoes and toeing in can help reduce the level of vibration, but that nothing can be done to remove it completely. So, can anyone point out a way to address this? Is it something I'd simply have to get used to, or have I just picked the wrong kind of bike for my needs? EDIT Thanks to 'grivooga' at Reddit (via Cyclo), this is an ideal description of the issue: What happened is that the fork blades and your headtube flexed. Just a little but enough to change the distance between the brake cable stop and the brake arms. This caused the brakes to pull harder. Something had to give, either the tire will skid, the brake pad will skip, or you'll go over the bars and crash. In this case the brake pad skipped on the rim. That released the pressure momentarily the frame and fork flexed back then the pad caught again and the process repeateded. The whole process happens very quickly, many times a second. I'll try one of the recommended fork-mounted hangers, along with some better toe-in and maybe softer compound pads. EDIT2 For future readers: After a couple of telephone discussions and a short wait, I took it out again with a fork-mounted hangar attached as shown: The red circle shows roughly where the original hanger was situated. With the drop significantly reduced, all I feel now is the occasional soft vibration, and only when I lean fairly hard on the front brake. Enough of an improvement that I bought the bike. <Q> Here is a lengthy discussion at reddit/r/bicycling about this exact same problem with the same bike: <S> Carbon forks flex under braking. <S> How much is 'normal'? <S> How easily do they fracture? <A> Here is an explanation and answer Technical Q&A with Lennard Zinn: How to stop cyclocross brake chatter <S> Very brief summary of Zinn's article: Brake shudder is inherent to the design of a center-pull cantilever brake. <S> Reduced break pad size, lots of toe-in, and a tight headset can help. <A> Assuming I know what you mean by "judder", <S> properly adjusted cantilever brakes with decent pads will not do that. <S> They will screech and sometimes vibrate (as will all caliper brakes) when not properly toed-in, or with worn pads, but proper adjustment (and pad replacement as needed) should fix that. <A> I would go back to the shop where you purchased the bike and ask them to let you test ride a similar bike under similar conditions. <S> This will eliminate the They all do that excuse. <S> Even the factory makes mistakes in the assembly or manufacturing process or something may have been damaged in shipping. <A> well just changed the front canti to reg Dual pivot long reach Road bike brake .found <S> a off brand $23 in my local <S> do <S> it youself <S> bike shop( Kraynicks )here in Pittsburgh . <S> tried the hanger it helped but <S> chatter was still there enough <S> it bugged me ! <S> problem solved brakes smooth as heellll now`no chatter <S> what so ever . <S> whats the love of Cantis <S> any how in Xcross ? <S> yeah <S> the mud thing ! <S> whatever
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A simple solution from Specialized itself to your problem could be the installation of a Tricross Fork Brake Hanger.
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How can I make a glow bike? How I can make my bicycle glow? As seen in this Blackberry commercial (with screen capture image below). <Q> Paint it with fluorescent paint and then illuminate with ultraviolet lights (and white LEDs serve this purpose fairly well). <S> There are also glow strips/panels sold mostly to (oddly) computer hackers who like to light up the inside of their computers. <S> And probably a few other specialty markets. <S> Of course, you'd have to rig up some sort of power supply. <S> Batteries can be concealed under the seat or in the seat tube, or on the person of the cyclist. <S> The paint will continue to glow brightly for several minutes after being so "charged", long enough to shoot the commercial, I'd guess.] <A> Buy a flax fiber bike that isn't painted, insert a florescent light into the tubing. <S> Then paint your bike with phosphorescent paint. <A> While this wont be as consistent as the image above, wrapping your bike with electroluminescent wire will be 10x cheaper and faster, plus last longer. <S> Amazone sells it pretty cheap <S> here <S> I have used it on bikes, Halloween costumes, kid toys, etc. <S> Its super flexible, durable and safe. <S> 9ft runs on 2 AA batteries. <S> Tape or zip tie it on as needed. <A> http://glowinc.com/ <S> They make the brightest paint. <A> Bikeglow is a way of lighting your bike at night. <S> It doesn’t make the frame itself glow but no doubt makes your bike much more visible. <S> It runs on two AA batteries. <S> No idea if it is any good: I about it for the first time today. <A> Check this out, <S> Im gonna paint my bike soon... <S> http://www.instructables.com/id/Night-Bike/ <A> BikeGlow EL wire as well as Monkeylectric wheel lights would get you about as bright, but my guess is that bike was made to glow using video effects in post processing, not real life.
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[Odds are, to achieve this special effect for the commercial, the bike was painted with fluorescent paint and then illuminated for several minutes with separate UV lights.
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Where can I find statistics on the growth of US & worldwide bicycle use and business? I'm having trouble finding up-to-date information on the growth of cycling in the US and across the globe. How rapidly is the cycling industry growing? In what country is cycling growing fastest? Is the industry growing in lock-step with new cyclists or are established cyclists just purchasing more cycling goods? Where are the most new cyclists hopping on bicycles? Many questions, I know, and don't expect them all answered. More broadly: Where can I find, or can anyone provide, statistics that demonstrate the trajectory of bike use? <Q> There's some US-specific stuff collected by the LAB here: http://www.bikeleague.org/media/facts/ — click through and you'll find spreadsheets, etc. <S> Looks like they mostly have 2000–2009 data. <S> It's pretty typical for that kind of data that 2009 will be the latest year available. <S> With the type of agencies and data involved, it can easily take a year or two to compile into a useful report. <S> I was looking at a recent report for data in my local area (long pdf, start at page 85) <S> and they reference the National Bike and Pedestrian Documentation Project as the new (2009 and later) standard used for counting bicycle usage. <S> Looking through their documents, they mention: Rails-To-Trails Conservancy Institute of Transportation Engineers . <S> National Household Travel Survey . <S> The NHTS seems most promising, but they don't have a ready-made report for what you want and their data samples are roughly every decade, not annual. <S> Also promising: <A> Here is some Australian data from an Australian Bicycle Council report . <S> On 31 August 2011 the Australian Bicycle Council released the results of the National Cycling Participation Survey. <S> The survey found that in a typical week around 18% of Australians ride a bicycle for transport and recreation with around 3.6 million people riding for recreation, leisure or sport and 1.2 million people making at least one transport journey. <A> I expect that manufacturers would want and have this information. <S> These articles ( here and here ) suggest to me that you can tell things about the world-wide bike market by looking at Shimano.
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US Census Commuting Data , but it looks like you'll have to dig down into the more raw data to get what you want, since the easy to find report only has the latest census and puts bicycling in an "other" bin.
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What type of bike is appropiate for my situation? First off, sorry for being unable to phrase my question more precisely. Currently, I ride a 26" hardtail mountain/trail bike to and from work/university (around 7km each way). Surely, this is not the ideal bike, but I do love the ruggedness (occasionally jumping a flight of stairs etc.) and maneuverability. So I‘m not going to replace it entirely, but rather extend my fleet. Also, I’m considering doing a bike tour through Europe once I finish my degree (another two years until thats the case). In the meantime I’d naturally like to train, i.e. riding more than 50km at once, which isn’t nice on a trail bike. Also, I plan on building it myself, if that makes a difference?! So here are my concerns: Should I just buy a touring bike now? Seems they are too heavy for what I need now. Should I buy a fixie? I’m surely not interested in being fashionable, but I read here that it helps develop a smoother pedaling style; that can’t be bad?! Should I get clipless pedals ? There are some which you can still use with normal shoes, is there a major drawback? But mainly, what type of bike? Edit: Based on the answers so far (thanks guys) I noticed that I wasn’t really clear. I don’t want to use this bike for touring, I want to get around town quickly and do a longer day tour with it, no need for carrying stuff. <Q> If it were me I would buy a comfortable steel road bike with fenders and racks. <S> This will give you a bike you can comfortable go distances on as well as practicality for the commute. <S> You aren't racing so you don't really need an extremely expensive, high end road bike and a steel frame will be comfortable and durable assuming you store it properly. <S> When you feel the need to romp around you can take your MTB out. <S> If the road bikes are out of your price range then consider a similar setup with a single speed/fixed gear. <A> As others have pointed out, simply changing the tires on your current bike would probably be the most budget friendly solution. <S> Putting a slick or inverted tread tire on your mountain bike should improve the rolling resistance without breaking the bank. <S> Alternatively, have you thought about a cyclo-cross bike as a second bike? <S> That'd give you a nice mix of features present in road (lighter frame), touring (wider tires, cantilever breaks) and mountain bikes (overall "beefy" build, lower gearing). <S> You can improve your pedal stroke without buying a special bike. <S> I also recommend the clipless pedals. <A> When you hit a long climb into your stop after 5-6 hours on the road <S> it's really nice to be able to just drop down a couple of gears rather that having to struggle. <S> (Not that I haven't seen a few gorillas touring on fixies -- though none loaded that I've ever noticed.) <S> Actually, your current bike, if it can be rigged to carry the required baggage, may not be a bad choice for touring, if you just install smoother tires and carry a higher pressure -- it all depends on what's comfortable for you to ride a long distance. <S> Clipless pedals are nice for touring, as they eliminate the need to exert effort to keep your feet on the pedals, and this, in turn, can increase foot comfort after several hours in the saddle. <S> Several styles take shoes that are "walkable" (though I wouldn't recommend a 20 mile hike in any of them). <S> At the very least you should have toe clips. <A> I've commuted on 26" MTBs and I made one a bit hybrid style by not chopping the fork tube down and had a much easier time on it. <S> My other MTB <S> I didn't get an extended stem for and I found it less comfortable. <S> Both bikes I outfitted with full sized fenders, rear racks and handle bar bags. <S> I would start with getting to know SPD pedals and shop around for a second bike. <S> SPD pedals take some getting used to, and if your ergonomics are not tuned in, you might be exposing yourself to lower back strain and visiting a chiropractor. <S> You don't want a tour cut in half for back problems...or clipless might just not suit your style. <S> (Clipless pedals sell quickly if you decide you don't like them.) <S> Also consider buying a small pocket metronome if you don't already know what 90rpm feels like. <S> Building a bike up or rebuilding a used one is great, it will make you very familiar with how to fix it and tune its ergonomics as you go extend your riding range. <S> I second the recommendation for a cyclocross style bike if you don't like the idea of a touring bike. <S> Keep the ultimate tour route in mind: doing lots of hills? <S> Get a gearing suited for hills. <S> Credit card touring and not carrying much? <S> Then you might not want to go for a bike with fork brazeons. <S> If you're going to be carrying full panniers on the trip, consider sturdy wheels. <S> There's no reason you couldn't tour on a 26" cromoly MTB, so long as you've adjusted the ergonomics to suit long rides. <S> 26" wheels are often sturdier than 700c wheels, on a properly built wheel, shorter spokes break less often. <S> (BTW, I don't want to get into a flame over wheels, there are many factors I'm omitting.)
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Fixed gear bikes will make you pedal smoother but a disciplined rider of any bike can get the same benefits using cadence drills without the added danger of getting bucked by pedals moving faster than you can. If you want a fixie because they're trendy, consider buying a used one from a recovering hipster. If you are concerned about wearing "normal" shoes, you should check out the commuter style SPD compatible shoes as many of these can be comfortably worn while off the bike (and won't make you walk like a penguin) If you intend to do loaded touring, I'd suggest you stay away from a fixie unless you're a real gorilla.
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What tools are most important on an all-in-one bike tool for a commuter? My commute is about 25km/day. I have a cheapish hybrid bike with Shimano gears, v-brakes and SPD pedals. I carry a small hand pump and spare tube. What do I need in a bike tool/ multitool or other spares? <Q> Probably means a few sizes of Allen (hex) wrench. <S> Metric. <S> Smallest bolts are probably on brakes and biggest under saddle, but varies. <S> The rest, like a chain tool, are a lot less likely to be needed. <A> A multitool basically only needs to include the Allen wrenches that fit your bike, plus screwdrivers to fit screws on the bike. <S> It doesn't hurt if the tool purports to include a tire lever, but I wouldn't rely on one in a multitool to be any good -- you should carry regular levers or a Quick Stick if you intend to be prepared to repair a tire. <A> The jobs will dictate the need of tools. <S> Look at the hardware you have, and what needs to be turned to perform common repairs and adjustments: Flat tires (remove and reattach wheels and brakes), adjust pressure Seat height Brake adjustment <S> Gear adjustment <S> Allen Wrenches for the size bolts you have. <S> Tire Levers. <S> Potentially a small screwdriver bit, depending on the hard ware on your bike. <S> Lugs for wheels if you don't have quick releases. <S> The question is similar to asking what is necessary to cook without knowing what the dish is. <S> Sometimes you need an oven, sometimes a grill, sometimes just a mixing bowl.
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Tire levers Appropriate wrenches to tighten loose bolts, adjust brakes, etc.
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How to pull a carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame? How do I pull out a carbon seatpost on a carbon frame?It seems so hard for me...Do I need a special tool, or just ask help from a local bike shop? done with the seatpost.I made the frame and fork reversed hold the bottom bracket with my tripod, install a saddle on it and gave a big bang on the saddle about 20 times and done. <Q> Seatpost should then move OK. <S> Saw this done by ex-Pro <S> who was Giant dealer on a Propel, made my life so much easier since I learned that tip <A> Try to push the seat down slightly. <S> The carbon weave can act the way those finger cuff toys we had as children did (the more you pull the tighter <S> they get).By pushing down <S> you release the grabbing action. <S> Make sure you use something similar to Park Tool Carbon/Alloy Assembly Lube before you reassemble it,check with your local bike shop for their reccomendation. <A> Twisted the saddle as suggested above which worked a treat at breaking the friction. <S> I then used the flat part of a D-Lock (with a rag to stop metal on metal) under the front of the saddle as an upward hammer. <S> Job done after 3 clunks.
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For Aero seatposts, smack the saddle nose solidly sideways with your hand, you should hear a loud crack, this is the surface tension breaking.
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What rear brake should I get for a Surly Steamroller? I recently acquired a Surly Steamroller (fixed gear bike). I want to ride is as a single speed for everyday use. I changed out the rear wheel and got one with a flip-flop hub. I'd also like to add a rear brake but I'm not sure what will work. The Surly website states that standard reach post mount calipers are compatible but that's for the current model. My bike is a number of years old. The other problem is that there are no stops for housing. Any suggestions for my best option(s)? Thanks. <Q> The steamroller will work (for the last 5 years at least) with a standard reach rear brake. <S> Any model will do. <S> As for housing stops, you must use a full length housing, and zipp tie it to the top tube of the frame, or have someone add riveted stops. <S> Full length housing is easier, cheaper, and doesn't void your warranty. <A> You can pick up any low-cost standard-reach rear brake. <S> In a pinch, some of the models from Nashbar work . <S> You can zip-tie or run cable clips to route your brake cable. <S> Be sure to acquire a long length of cable housing. <A> I recommend not adding a rear brake, you should add a front brake instead, and learn to use it properly . <S> The complete bike as specd by Surly has a front brake only.
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Any standard reach front brake should work fine. If you want to have both brakes, then use the full length housing and zip ties as others have mentioned.
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How to remove broken bolt in Chain Tug? It is now stuck very hard because I used apparently too much force to tighten it, how would you take that out? The bolt is in soft aluminium frame so it can be quite tricky thing to do. Some bolt removal tool? Related question here with the chain-tug -suggestion. <Q> Unless I'm missing something, you should just be able to remove the chain using a chain tool, and then slide the wheel back in the dropout. <S> This would free the chaintug from the back of the dropout, then you could rotate it down out of the way and be free to slide the wheel forward and remove it. <S> Once the wheel's out, take the chaintug off the axle and have the full suite of machine tools available to drill out or otherwise remove and replace the broken bolt at your leisure. <A> Craftsman robo grips pliers. <S> Kind of a cross between channel locks and vice grips. <S> They really help with enough force and grip to get broken bolts lose. <A> Sure would be great to have some more pics of the larger scenario <S> but I'm assuming we are looking at the axle bolt and the wheel is stuck in the frame. <S> Here's some things to try: Use a small piece of 2x4 place it on top of the tensioner and use a hammer to come down on it. <S> If that doesn't work hit it from the bottom. <S> Putting a bit of grease in there can't hurt, and if there are cracks it might help a lot. <S> Try a soldering iron, or a propane torch. <S> Drill out the inside of the bolt and it will collapse.
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Bolt cutter or hack saw to the axle between the frame and the hub (if you can make room, loosening the other side should help. A heating implement to expand the metal on the tensioner may open up the hole.
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Alternate mount for Kryptonite U-Lock? My wife's bike doesn't have room on the upright to mount the Krytonite U-Lock she was given as a gift. The plastic mounting bracket sticks out way too far. She has a small framed Specialized Vita. Is there some alternate bracket that can be purchased that would allow it to be mounted via the existing holes in the frame where the water bottle bracket would go? <Q> Is there some alternate bracket that can be purchased that would allow it to be mounted via the existing holes in the frame where the water bottle bracket would go? <S> First, Kryptonite makes more than one U-Lock (at least 6 models) and more than one mounting. <S> Second, Does the lock really need to mount on the frame? <S> If the bike has a rear rack, the lock could get bungeed there. <S> Or perhaps in a pannier? <S> Or backpack/messenger bag? <S> Jersey pocket? <S> And, just sayin, the hipsters around here keep U-locks in their back pockets and that's for fun. <S> ;~) Not to be rude, but U-locks can be mounted or carried in a few places. <S> Personally, I don't carry the U-lock on the water bottle mounts... <S> mainly since I actually do want water bottles to be on the frame mounts. <S> But hey, it's up to you. <A> Twofish CycleBlock or MegaBlock is a good universal lock holder. <A>
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So, my first impulse would be to check the Kryptonite site or inquire at a local bike shop that carries the Kryptonite product line. If the bike in question has a rack, you can generally loop bungee cord around it to make u-lock holder that is fast to use and keeps to lock secure in place.
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Carbon Seatpost / Frame in Repair Stand I've got a Park PCS-10 repair stand, and just acquired my first carbon bike. Is there anything I should know about clamping either the frame or seatpost in the stand? Being a few years old, the frame and seatpost are perfectly round and non-aero. Is it safe to clamp them in the stand? Do I need an adaptor? Or should I avoid clamping it in a stand entirely? Thanks. <Q> Park Tool suggests contacting the frame manufacturer for advise,apparently different makers designate different clamping points. <A> I clamp my bikes by the seat post (they are aluminium seat posts on my bkes) for maintaince tasks that dont involve a lot of force (like removing bottom brakets) <S> If I need to apply a lot of force then I put my bike on the ground and support it with my body. <S> You could always swap out the carbon post for an aluminum one. <A> The recommendation I got from abike shop was to clamp to the seatpost (it is carbon). <S> That said, I observed the same bike mechanics work on my bike and they simply clamped the bike by its carbon fiber seatpost without swapping it out.
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However, they said the safest thing to do would be to keep an aluminum seatpost around and swap it out whenever I want to use the repair stand. If you have a carbon seat post you need to be carefull that you do not clamp it too tight because the usual advice is that clamping forces are the most likly to cause damage to carbon components.
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Where can I buy lugs for a classic roadster frame geometry? The title says it all. I want to build my own frame and need lugs that will fit the roadster (e.g. Raleigh Tourist) geometry. <Q> No Roadster lugs are available for the independent or small shop. <S> That is why I had to make them. <S> Roadster lugs are made [India, China, Taiwan and of course in the Netherlands], it is just that distributors like Nova and Ceeway do not buy them. <S> I find it amusing about the comment about TIG welding lugs. <S> Why lug anything really... <S> it is just for looks. <S> Stamped lugs are welded together :) <S> Only the expensive racing lugs are cast. <S> I think you best bet is to try and find them in India or Taiwan and ask for a sample. <A> Try this link <A> If by "roadster geometry" you mean a slack (66-68 degree) head tube and seat tube angle <S> The cost of creating a wide variety of investment castings and distributing the product is high and the demand is minuscule. <S> 4 <S> no. <S> 4 . <S> This ANT-built bike appears to be an example of a roadster geometry frame using custom lugs. <S> Most of the examples of bicycles I've seen in this style appear to have just very simple tubular lugs rather than anything particularly fancy. <A> They make frame building jigs, and supply most boutique US based frame builders. <S> Ceeway is a good choice in Europe. <S> Some lugs may need to be custom cast, or modified, depending on the head tube and seat tube angles you choose. <S> The fork rake will need to be fairly slack to match that style. <A> Nova Cycle Supply offers many framebuilding components including lugs. <S> I can't speak to geometries.
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You might look into TIG-welded custom lugs, such as those made by ANT bikes or by Mark Nobilette as described in Bicycle Quarterly vol. I think you might be out of luck for anything commercially produced. The best place I've found is Henry James Bicycle supply .
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Will it cause problems if I use components from different series? If I set up a bike with: 10-speed tiagra shifters 10-speed dura ace read derailleur 9-speed 105 front derailleur Will it cause problems if I use components from different series? (All of these are from within the past year or two.) <Q> Your best performance will come from using components which were designed to work together, i.e. with the complete drive train from the same year and series. <S> That doesn't mean that different combinations will not work together at all, however. <S> While I have occasionally used a 9 speed front derailleur with a 10 speed drivetrain as an emergency fix, it shouldn't be used for a permanent set up. <S> Your shifting performance will suffer, even if they are both double or both triple components. <S> In addition, the year and model of the Dura Ace components matters. <S> The 7900 STI levers, which are current Dura Ace, have compatibility issues with the 7800 front derailleur of just 2 years ago, even though Shimano says they are fully compatible. <S> I've added scans of the Shimano 2012 Compatibility charts for front and rear drive train components. <S> I hope that helps. <S> Shimano Front Derailleur Compatibility Chart <S> Shimano Rear Derailleur Compatibility Chart <A> Yes, you can mix components from different series (you see many bikes with a mix of component level). <S> BUT, you cannot mix 9/10 speed <S> , do not use a 10 speed sti shifter with 9 speed derailleur. <S> Additionally, check your front shifter to see if was made for double or triple chainring and make sure your front derailleur will work with the number of chain rings you are going to run. <A> 9 and 10 speed are pretty close in width, so you should be OK to mix 10 speed shifters with a 9 speed frount derailleur <S> ( I have several bikes set up like that ). <S> At the rear you need to make sure that cable pull is compatible.
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Just make sure the limit screws are set up correctly so the chain does not fall off. You will notice that no 9 speed part is listed as compatible with any 10 speed part, but that even the new 4600 Tiagra 10-speed is listed as compatible with all 10 speed components. I'm not to sure about your situation because Dura-ace has at times used a different cable pull to other shimano derailleurs
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Adivce on what to do next with crunching / slipping gears About two weeks ago I took my bike to the local bike shop to get serviced. It was previously slipping gears under load and at the end I couldn't use the lowest gear going up hill it would just slip constantly. I mentioned the crunching / slipping to the guy at the counter. When I went to pick up my bike I was charge $170 bucks for two new set of brakes, replaced one bolt type thing which was apparantly shredded (called a cone or something along those lines) and to have all the gears properly set. I was also told that the rear derailleur arm was bent and this was straightened. The bike only cost $100 from a reliable friend who only rode it ocassionally and the bike is 3 years old. So the service was comparitively costly compared to the cost of the whole bike. In the past few days it has started slipping again under load which is what it was doing previously and it won't hold gear at all when in the very lowest 1 1 combination it always slips to 1 2. It is also very noisy when I sit in my average riding gear which is either in 4th or 5th in the rear gears. The crunching is slightly dangerous because it can happen taking off from traffic lights or when I put extra pressure on to leave an intersection / roundabout etc. when cars are waiting behind me. The other thing is when I picked up my bike I asked about the slipping and the response was kind of like "ah, yeh, ah, that should be OK now" which sounded to me like they didn't take it for a significant ride after repairing. On the other side, these guys are supposed to be reputable, they have been around for a few years and the bike is not a supermarket bike it was actually purchased in their shop and in their defence the bike worked and sounded like a dream when I took it out of the shop so it is possible they did take it for a test ride even if they didn't sound convincing when they said so. I'm only an amateur so it is hard for me to describe what the problem is, it's like a split second crunch and it doesn't move down or up gear. Sometimes it feels like it is just slightly out of gear and then after riding for 2 minutes it will crunch for a second and then it will not crunch again unless I change to a different gear. Sometimes I can just sense that it isn't quite right and swith back and forward between gears. Although, when I look down at the rear gears it all looks settled even if it doesn't feel right. I'm also not sure if it is the rear derailleur cogs where it is slipping or the gears, I have no idea because I can't visually spot it and can't tell exactly where the sensation is. I would appreciate any advice on what my next steps should be? <Q> That sounds like the rear cogs are worn, the likely fix is a new chain and set of cogs for the rear (you have to replace them <S> both at the same time otherwise the problem will persist, perversely even worse). <S> I suspect the bike shop fixed/ <S> replaced the stuff that was obviously visibly knackered and hoped for the best. <S> In truth I suspect they needed to do what they did plus replace the cogs and chain, but they were hoping that wasn't the case because the bill would have been even higher. <S> In my experience bike shops don't tend to actually ride the bikes so they can miss stuff I wish they wouldn't. <S> That's one of the reasons I learnt to do my own maintenance. <S> In general the trick with bike shops is to check your bike before you sign off on the work, i.e. I ask to ride my bike around to test it before I leave the bike shop (and pay). <S> If I do find I still have a problem after leaving the bike shop and paying I go straight back and explain the problem and say it's not quite sorted yet. <S> They are normally very reasonable and will sort the problem without additional charge, assuming it doesn't require new parts. <S> It will cost more money though, it sucks but unfortunately bikes aren't generally that cheap when it comes to maintenance (compared to the initial cost of the bike). <A> There are some pitfalls beyond the correctly pointed worn teeth, mentioned by Colin Newell: <S> Derailer hanger might be misaligned, which causes some gears to not properly engage; The "bent" derailer, which was straightened by the shop, might not be totally straight yet, even if it looks so (there is a parellellogram that needs to be perfectly aligned to work properly); Rear shifter cable might not be running free inside the housings, which might leave the derailer between gears, or might let the gears slowly slip to a higher one as the lightly stuck cable slowly slips back inside the housing; <S> I hope it is not too mystical for you to check, but surely it is worth trying to grasp the essence of bicycle drivetrain mechanics, so you will be a much more powerful and self-reliant cyclist. <S> If you find something, write a comment or edit your question, and don't forget to accept your preferred answer! <A> Can it be just a case of cables stretching a bit after they adjusted them, so the gears are constantly in a half-shifted state? <S> Noisy gears would indicate that I think, especially taking into account that the bike had been ridden only occasionally so the chain/cassette are unlikely to be worn and the gears worked fine after adjustment. <S> The tendency to auto-shift from the largest cog to the second-largest also indicates that the cable is too long. <S> Slightly tightening the cable using the nut near the shifter may fix the problem I believe.
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The gears might be mismatched, for example, the shifter might show one gear number and the actual gear is other, because the cable is much shorter or much longer, or the adjusting screw was overturned and "shifted" the whole system one whole gear up or down; Much more odd stuff would be: incompatible chain-and-sprockets, bent rear axle, excentric or misaligned ("wobbling") cassette, chain with "hard links" which slip over sprockets' teeth. Your best bet is to go back to the bike shop and explain the problem isn't quite sorted and if possible demonstrate it to them.
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How to avoid knee pain when cycling I've noticed some knee pain arising recently from cycling. a throbbing around and below the kneecap, while I sit at my desk during work. To try and counteract this I've been increasing the height of my seat. This has gotten to the point where my hips slightly rock during cycling. I know there is a few things I do that do not help. I ride a fixie: I've tried taking the starts and stops slower in order to minimise tension in my knees. Also I always use the front brake to slow down. What steps can be taken to eliminate knee pain. It's causing some concern considering my daily cycle is <15mins of urban cycling. <Q> I am a physician (not practicing anymore), a biker, and an office worker. <S> And I ride fixie. <S> And I sometimes have knee discomfort. <S> So, my few cents: Depending on HOW YOU SIT DURING WORK, specially how you rest your legs/feet, your knee might be twisted for a long time (hours a day). <S> Watch yourself if it is happening or not. <S> Take a rest on the fixie. <S> I noticed it is only nice when you are "energized". <S> Sometimes we are a bit tired or "low mood". <S> These are not good times to ride fixed, I think. <S> So, take an abundantly-geared beater or something, until you get better. <S> If you don't get the rest, try not to accelerate or decelerate too fast. <S> If you ride in traffic, give up riding faster than motor vehicles, for a while, until your knee gets better. <S> I think speed is not so important (spinning is winning, Stephen said), but bursts of acceleration or deceleration put a stress on the knees. <S> Watch yourself while pedalling. <S> If you notice some movements reproduce the pain you feel, change your habit, avoid them as much as you can. <S> But try to keep efficient. <S> If you have to create an anti-natural position so as not to feel pain, things are starting to get ominous! <S> Other factor <S> : you mentioned your cycle is short, less than 15min (so is mine). <S> I found this to be a problem, because you always ride "cold". <S> Perhaps you could warm-up and stretch, at home (learn how to stretch thigh and calf properly, first), or even take a LONGER way to work, so you can ride lightly for more time, thus pumping some nutrients inside your joints' tissues instead of just hammering'em cold. <S> But don't think that is more important than self-observation, self-knowledge and self-control. <S> Hope it helps. <A> Lower your gear ratio. <S> Spinning is winning. <A> Seek professional medical advice, either a physiotherapist or a sports doctor. <A> Yep, three points: <S> (Not what you wanted to hear.) <S> The knee is the weakest part of the human body, and riding in too high of a gear puts enormous stress on it. <S> A fixie has you riding in the wrong gear most of the time. <S> Raise your seat. <S> (Though it sounds like you've done this.) <S> Having your seat too low amplifies <S> the stress on the knee. <S> The seat should be as high as reasonably possible without causing you to slip side-to-side as you pedal. <S> Use toe clips. <S> I don't know exactly why, but <S> toe clips help relieve stress on the knee. <S> (And it may be that old-fashioned strap-type clips are better than "clipless", as they don't stress the knee sideways, and don't require knee stress to unclip.) <S> Visit a orthopedist or at least a medically-qualified physical therapist to find out which variety of knee pain you're experiencing <S> (there are several different knee pain syndromes) and what therapy you should use for it. <S> Very often the right exercises (eg, straight leg lifts) can make a world of difference. <A> It might also help to work out your leg muscles in the gym. <S> There are many muscles that are useful that aren't easily trained just on the bike. <S> Stabilizer muscles and quads. <S> On the topic of fixed gear, there is a reason the top track guys are all hitting the gym.
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Cycling in too high a gear, particularly uphill is a pretty good way to hurt your knees, so you may want to get a bike with multiple gears. At last, seeing a doctor (preferrably specialized in sports medicine) and doing some physical therapy is always something to consider. Don't ride a fixie. Also, have your bike fit checked (see this question ).
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Where can I find a 130 bcd single speed chainring with 58 or 60 teeth? Where can I find a 130 bcd single speed chainring with 58 or 60 teeth? I am attempting to setup a goldsprints setup using a very large front ring and a small rear freewheel. <Q> I've been looking for the same thing for a while. <S> Rotor makes a ring that might be of interest: A Q-Ring (oval shape to maximize power stroke) in a 56t in a 130bcd. <S> That ring goes up to a 59t at the largest point. <S> They say that it is effectively a 58T ring. <A> Vuelta makes one, and you can buy it from them directly . <S> Vuelta has a few distributors including KHS, so you should also be able to get many local bicycle shops to special-order you one. <A> You might want to check Kraynick's Bike Shop in Pittsburgh, PA, <S> Jerry's telephone number is (412) 621-6160. <S> He probably has one in his multi-story shop or could know where to find one.
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If you prefer to buy locally and immediately, I'd suggest looking for a local shop that specializes in recumbents or trikes.
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Do stickers or paint compromise a helmet? Would sticking stickers on a helmet or painting them etc make a helmet less useful in a crash? Not knowing the science of helmets but perhaps stickers in the wrong place might make it not behave how the manufacturer intended during a crash (not breaking apart correctly)? <Q> I agree with the others, it doesn't seem like stickers should be a problem. <S> My helmet has stickers on the shell added by the manufacturer - clearly they were added make me ride faster. <S> Paint is a different story... <S> I believe petroleum solvents in particular can cause polystyrene to melt. <S> Polystyrene is sometimes used in crafts and model building, so a hobby store might stock some polystyrene safe paints or be able to recommend a brand of paint that'll be safe to use. <A> As long as the material in the paint doesn't cause the helmet material to degrade, it should be fine. <S> The two things a helmet does to keep your head safe during a crash are compress (to absorb the impact) and stay securely fastened to your head (so the foam stays between your head and the hard thing the helmet is hitting). <S> Breaking apart is very much a secondary thing that simply sometimes happens after the primary purpose (compressing) happens to destroy the bits holding the helmet together. <S> If the stickers are a hard raised item that will compromise the effectiveness of the helmet, however, since the protrusion could be driven through the foam in a crash. <A> One of the concerns with stickers and paint to a lesser degree is that it may mask or hide damage to the shell. <S> Manufacturers reccomend inspection prior to every use and damage prior to or after application of a sticker could be hidden. <A> Stickers are fine... <S> paint is the danger as mentioned already. <S> Some helmets are constructed using a thin plastic shell that is stuck to the foam base. <S> If you remove the shell and paint that seperately, then re-attach <S> it you should be fine. <S> However, as you should get a new helemt every few years, to make the manufactures happy and to be safe because the materials break down over time due to UV light and other variables, I'd just go out and find a nice helmet in the colour that you want. <S> The cost isn't extremely high and you'd look very chic ;-) <A> About stickers: <S> The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute writes in an article: <S> The Snell Memorial Foundation has informed us that the hundreds of crashed helmets they examined in a study done in the mid-1990's with Harborview Injury Prevention Center showed no ill effects from any of the stickers that had been applied. <S> But duct tape <S> can compromise a helmet. <S> Details are in the article. <A> I personally wouldn't worry about most stickers and decals. <S> Paint can be more of a problem, or if you used the wrong clear coating over a sticker/decal. <S> It's a question of whether the particular paint reacts with the plastic shell.
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While helmets do sometimes break apart in a crash, that's not a primary design requirement for them to keep your head protected. Polystyrene (aka Styrofoam) and certain other plastics can be damaged by the solvents used in paints, like some spray paints.
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Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade I live in Bulgaria and I am looking for suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade, budget 400-500$ . I am planning to travel from home to work (dayly) and to take part in competitions like 100 km (about 63 miles) mountain lap called the "The 100km Vitosha Lap" and to have occasional drifts in the mountain . My choice so for goes for Drag Ontario Pro. I have heard good things about Sprint Apolon too, but I am not so impressed. 2nd hand RAM or Scott are also an options. I am interested to hear suggestions and if you don't know what to recommend me in that price range advices what I should be looking for when buying a bike with options for later upgrade. <Q> Assuming a new bike, look at the Scott Aspect 30, 20, or 10, depending on your budget. <S> They all use the same frame, and the only difference is components. <S> When you buy a bike with the intent to upgrade, realize you will spend far more long term, than if you bought your bike ready built with the same components you upgraded to. <S> I understand why it can be better to do it that way to break up the cost, but it does cost a lot more money overall. <S> I would make sure you buy a bike with good wheels, a good frame, and a good fork. <S> Those parts are astronomically more expensive to upgrade to than to buy on the bike. <S> Your budget is fairly low, so if you have the option, save a bit more before you buy. <S> A budget of $800-1000 is more appropriate if you can afford to make it work. <S> It allows the wheels and fork to be quality enough that upgrading the other components becomes worthwhile. <S> If you can make that budget work, then look at the Scott Scale line. <S> I like and recommend Scott bikes for you because they are readily available in Europe, and they make high quality bikes at a reasonable price. <S> I hope this is helpful to you. <A> Later upgrade means mostly "default" component sizes most common on medium-quality bikes and good quality bikes, but often not found in very cheap supermarket bikes: <S> Cassette cogset (not threaded one); Quick release axles and seatpost; Vertical dropouts with separate derailer hanger; Three-piece crankset; Oversize head tube; Threaded bottle cage holes in the frame <S> With a bike with these features, you will always be able to upgrade to "modern" mountain bike components. <A>
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You might also want to consider a used bike - you'll be able to get more for your money and if / when stuff wears out you can upgrade it as you go.
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After an accident, what next? Cycling home in the dark a car pulled across me to enter a super market car park. Apparently the car that let him cross didn't remove their full beam so he didn't see me in the cycle lane and I hit the side of him. Apart from the initial shock I'm basically OK. Hip & shoulder feels a little bruised but thats about it from what I can tell. Bike for the most part from what I can see also seems mostly OK apart the handlebars. We exchanged details etc a witness also stopped and gave me her details. And I had a friend come and pick me up as I was a little shocked. The driver admitted fault and seemed genuinely concerned and offered to pay for damage to the bike, it sounded like he was a cyclist himself. I'm not planning on any injury claims as apart from a bruised/sore hip and shoulder for a few days I reckon I'll survive. My bike is basically my workhorse for commuting and everything in between so the quickest possible turnaround with the least path of resistance to having it fixed would be the most ideal. Should I just take my bike to a local shop have them look it over and quote me then contact the driver, I may need to pay for it to be inspected first? Or should I go via their insurance? How fast do I need to act etc. I probably won't be able to get to a bicycle store before Friday. (I tried to add a photo of the handlebars but apparently I need 10 points first). <Q> Report it to his insurance company first. <S> Period. <S> If for whatever reason the driver decides to renege on his admittance of fault and declines to pay damages to your bike, you're basically screwed if you're past the insurance company's reporting threshold. <S> After you've contacted the driver's insurance company, take your bicycle to the nearest shop and have them fully inspect the bike and quote you for any necessary repairs. <S> Ask them to be thorough and include the cost of absolutely everything that may have been damaged in the crash: wheel re-truing, handlebar tape rewrapping, etc. <S> When the bike shop gives you a quote, give it to the person who hit you. <S> If he reimburses you, then you're done. <S> If not, you'll have to work through their insurance company. <S> It's probably best at that point to contact your own insurance company and see what steps they will take to help you receive payment. <A> John Duggan wrote an excellent checklist for what to do after a bike/car crash. <S> It sounds like you've already handled the first part pretty well, but here are the steps he advises: <S> Do get the necessary medical treatment. <S> Do have your bike thoroughly inspected by a reputable bike shop. <S> Do take photographs of the accident scene, your injuries, your bike and all other involved vehicles (your new camera phone may come in handy!). <S> Do not minimize your injuries or your bike damage. <S> Do not give a statement to the vehicle driver’s insurance without first consulting with an attorney. <S> Do not rush into any settlement until you know the full extent of your injuries and bike damage. <S> I will say that in my experience with an accident like yours, an attorney (like John Duggan, so he's a little biased) will not get directly involved since the stakes are quite low, but it can be handy to have one on hand if the insurance company decides to be difficult. <S> They can answer legal questions applicable in your jurisdiction that the internet can't. <S> And remember, just because the driver admitted fault to you at the scene <S> does not mean they will admit fault to their insurance agency. <S> This should ultimately be paid for by their insurance <S> (your insurance will likely ask you if any other insurance is billable for this), including any lost wages if you need to miss work and a pain and suffering payout (typically 3x medical bills). <S> If your collision was anything like mine, be prepared to wake up stiff and sore for a couple of days. <S> John also points out that the claim will cover damage to not only your bike but to any of your accessories or clothing - bag, gloves, pants, lights. <S> Make sure all of these things are undamaged. <S> Take your time here <S> - you do not want to accept a settlement from their insurance and then subsequently discover belatedly that your frame is cracked <S> and you've got a torn ligament that will require surgery. <A> You should probably contact your own insurance company (let your insurance company and the driver's fight it out) and find out how they want you to handle it from here. <S> The bike wouldn't seem to be as much of a time issue (from an insurance standpoint) <S> but I'd also get thee to the bike store as quickly as possible; if they have to order stuff it'll take time and <S> that's time you're not commuting. <A> First of all, call 911 and ask for the police and EMS. <S> If you said to a witness “I didn’t see the car before it hit me” the insurance company hears “I wasn’t paying attention”. <S> However, you won’t want to remain silent after the crash. <S> If you have a bicycle insurance policy - consider yourself lucky. <S> Don’t assume that the police have prepared or will prepare an accident report. <S> These reports are only completed if the police investigate an accident, and policies on accident reports will vary from one law enforcement agency to another. <S> If an accident report is prepared, make sure that it is accurate. <S> Read more here: What to do after a collision with a car
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However, do not sign any paperwork the insurance company asks you to (which may limit their liability or waive some of your rights) and inform them that you're having a bicycle shop prepare a quote for damages. I'd also advise going to the doctor and getting looked over just in case you do have some more serious injuries. If a law enforcement officer is at the accident site asking questions about the crash, make sure you give the officer your version of what happened along with providing your name and address. If you said “the car must have moved into my lane to hit me” the insurance company hears “ I wasn’t in my lane when the car hit me”.
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Fat or Skinny Tires for Winter Riding? Fat or Skinny? I think the arguments are as follows: Fat: You can float on top of the snow and you don-t have to go through it. You have a larger contact patch with the ground. Skinny: Will find it's way through the snow to find some pavement to grab onto. Studded: Works great on ice but has no effect on snow/slush/other stuff. (Note never tried studded tires so just speculating). Conditions of Interest I am interested in traction on: Cleared city streets Uncleared city streets Uncleared city streets where cars have gone through and made deep ruts Slush Slush that has re-frozen into deep ruts Ice patches Note: All pictures are take from google images. Background I have a short commute through part of Ottawa and run lots of erands on my bike. When it is snowing and when the roads don't look good I have several routes that are only slow residential streets so I can stay away from people yacking on their phones. I would also like to start doing some winter trail riding. Here is the historical weather data for Ottawa. <Q> I live in a country which doesn't have snow, but have recently gone to Europe (Czech Republic), where I could "understand" a bit how these things work. <S> Also, my background is with mountainbike on any sort of offroad terrain, including mud and beach sand. <S> That being said, I think your most concern would be the grooves/ruts from refrozen snow on roads, much similar to sun-baked mud on some fire-road tracks, but much more slippery, and flotation, much similar to riding on loose gravel or sand <S> (I am speculating a bit). <S> I can see a lot of studded tires are also slightly pending to the knobby-fatty end of spectrum. <S> With wider tires (no need to be super-wide), you can use lower tire pressures to float better and yet don't get pinch flats. <S> Also, with wide AND knobby tires, you can much more safely ride diagonally through ruts without the danger of your front wheel getting caught and you fall. <S> So, that's my (also a bit speculative) impressions about effects of tire width, tread-pattern and inflation pressure. <S> Hope it helps! <A> I ride my road bike and commuter (a cyclocross bike with fenders) in the winter. <S> Here are my observations using different tires ranging from 700 x 23 slicks on the road bike to 700 x 35 studded winter tires on the cyclocross: <S> Skinny road tires are fine when the streets are plowed and salted (cleared city streets). <S> Skinny road bike tires are fine so long as there is no substantial accumulation of snow (greater than 1 inch) on the road and there is no ice. <S> Problem when there is accumulation though is you can never be 100% sure if there is ice beneath. <S> Non studded fatter tires with knobs are better for loosely packed snow. <S> Again this is assuming this is fresh snow with very slim chance of icing beneath. <S> These tires are relatively fine for trail use too especially on fresh fallen snow. <S> With slush I feel more comfortable going through with studded tires since I can never really be sure if there is ice on the slush/snow <S> covered portion of the street (see image below) that I may be forced to negotiate due to vehicular traffic. <S> You have to be careful especially early in the morning when water run-off from the curb or sidewalk freezes into ice on the roads. <S> Other things to consider are that studded tires are noisier and heavier than regular tires. <S> If you can afford them, studded tires in my opinion are a worthy investment for the winter months. <S> Some pics below of my rides with studded tires and a pic with road tires, respectively, over snow covered trails, over icy roads, over slushy roads and finally using skinny tires: <A> I would suggest you go take a look at the Icebike equipment page for some advice and suggestions. <S> Personally, living in Ottawa I would use the fat tires and put some studs on. <A> Fat tires because: You are riding in variable terrain. <S> This is very similar to mountain biking. <S> You want an all terrain tyre. <S> Skinnies will cut through if the snow is loose and the ground is dry. <S> If you have loose over packed or loose over ice you are still at a disadvantage. <S> When you get refrozen slush you will get bucked hard. <S> It's my impression that those who like skinnies are on generally well plowed roads and <S> any snow on the road is new snow. <S> If your local DOT doesn't care to do more than the bare minimum to keep the road open then you will want something a little more robust. <S> For perspective I commute daily in Montana year round. <S> In town our average annual snowfall is north of 100". <S> In our town only major routes are plowed and they aren't plowed flawlessly. <A> If you get some with a tread pattern that can handle snow, you can ride in any winter condition. <S> I've mostly had experience with studs in car ruts, and I have no problem getting out of them. <A> Well, you have a couple of different scenarios here:- Road with (some degree of) <S> ice- <S> Road with snow- <S> Trail (probably with even more snow) <S> As a commuter, I guess you ride most in the fist scenario. <S> At least, that's what I do. <S> Riding in the winter isn't all that different from riding in the autumn/spring as long as you have studded tires. <S> What makes a difference is how many studs you need. <S> For very icy, uneven roads, more studs would be preferred, but the rolling resistance also increases a lot. <S> I use Schwalbe Marathon Winter which has 200 studs. <S> I find it a good compromise between speed and grip. <S> 300 tends to feel "sticky" on bare road. <S> As heltonbiker says, a wheels ability to ride on different terrains can efficiently be altered by regulating the amount of tire pressure. <S> For snow, use lower pressure for better grip, for good road conditions, use higher pressure for higher speed. <S> This site here has some really good reviews on different kinds of studded tires for different uses. <S> I would recommend Schwalbe Marathon Winter as a good, all round tire.
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I haven't had as many chances to test this year, but studded tires work great on ice.
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Flickering light, Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus with SON hub-generator Halfway through my third winter my Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus (powered by a SON hub-generator) headlight has suddenly started fluctuating, after I returned from Christmas holidays. While riding in the dark (and darkness lasts 20/24 hours here this time of the year), my light semi-regularly switches from bright to faint and back to bright. The faint light looks like the standlight, so very much less than the bright light. I ride in the dark around 5 hours/week during around 5 months, so with around less than 500 hours of dark riding, the LEDs should still be fine — or do LEDs degrade much more quickly in the cold (<-20°C)? My own hypothesis would be as mentioned on this forum : The flickering of the previous light could have been caused by adjusting the light when it has been firmly screwed down. This could cause the contact lip to turn in the housing and loose contact with the bulb. If this happens bend the lip forward again, and ease the mounting bolt a bit before readjusting but I'm not sure if it applies to my model, I don't know what lip to bend forward and how. I've already firmly attached the plugs on the outside, but maybe something got loose on the inside. As I'm a bit afraid of starting to disassembling things I can't assemble again, I'd need some advice. What can I open, firmly attach, adjust, etc. in an attempt to tighten all connections that need to be tight, and how do I do this? What other problems may cause the observed behaviour, and how would I handle those? (also posted at this Dutch forum ) <Q> Maybe the spring got weak, there is some rust, or some other sort of bad-quality electrical connection. <S> Since the lamps are meant to be replaceable by the user, you could do it yourself perhaps without any tool, or perhaps with a small screwdriver or some sort of tiny plier. <S> If you are in doubt, you could take the light to some friend or shop to take a look inside, for obvious bad-connections caused by rust or misalignments. <S> The forum refers to adjusting the light angle, twisting the whole headlight, while it could be too tightly fixed on the bike. <S> That would mean the headlight outer casing and/or internal structure got a little bent and misaligned. <S> A movement in the oposite direction coud straighten things back to normal, perhaps. <S> Hope it helps. <A> Like I suggested above, it's very likely that the problem is due to the sliprings in the dynamo. <S> Unfortunately, the SON hubs do not admit to being serviceable. <A> Recently my Lumotec IQ Cyo T senso plus powered by Shimano hub DH-3D30 also started flickering in the same way as you described after I rode in severe cold (-20C). <S> Your lamp is very similar to mine. <S> Initialy I suspected hub, but your hub is different. <S> However we both have Lumotec LED lights and used them in frigid temperatures. <S> Unfortunately I have no idea how to fix it.
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Since it is an halogen light (correct me if I'm wrong), there is a socket inside, with a spring or something, where you "screw" the lamp. A simple cleaning would do it, the lamp connections are always quite similar. This makes me think that the lamp was somehow damaged by winter temps.
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Is a tri frame suitable for track racing? I'm considering getting a fairly cheap bike built up for track racing at my local club, reusing my old carbon tubular road wheels. However, most track frames have a narrower hub spacing (120mm) versus road frames (130mm). My options seem to be at present to stretch an old steel track frame to fit the road wheel, or to use a tri frame which should have the needed 130mm hub spacing. <Q> I wouldn't. <S> Your tri frame will have a much lower bottom bracket. <S> This can easily result in a pedal strike on the banked corners of the velodrome. <S> Pedal strikes on corners with a fixed gear are bad ; since the drivetrain is always turning, it will cause your rear wheel to jump perpendicular to the track surface. <S> This will throw you into the bike on your left, and cause a spectacular crash. <S> Not as bad is that your frame has vertical dropouts instead of horizontal ones. <S> Horizontal dropouts are made such that any loosening of your rear skewer bolts can only cause the wheel to move further into the dropouts. <S> With vertical dropouts, any slip can potentially result in you losing your wheel. <A> Any bike can be riden on the track but the question would be, does your tri frame have suitable drop outs for your fixed gear? <S> Yes folks have rigged vertical drop outs for fixed gear before but they usually are a lot of hassle to keep set up just right. <S> As far as angles for the frame go, a track bike is going to be really close to a tri bike for geometry <S> but you ride what makes you feel comfortable. <S> You could always just get your wheels re-laced with a narrower hub. <A> Some good points above, but first of all you should ask the venue to check that you'd even be allowed on the track. <S> Most velodromes have pretty draconian rules. <S> Minimum BB height, maximum crank length, specific pedal requirements, restrictions on bottle cages, brake/rack/mudguard bosses... <S> the list goes on. <S> You'd almost certainly have to remove your brakes and levers altogether, rather than simply disconnecting them. <S> You may also need to fit dedicated track drops.
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Track frames are purpose-built for racing at a velodrome.
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Cyclometer interference from car detection loops? I've noticed several times lately when stopping at an intersection with a car detection loop that my wireless cyclometer (an Atom 4.0) exhibits some strange behavior. It continues to think I'm moving (as indicated by a triangle icon), the distance increases (by a tenth of a mile every few seconds), the average speed goes up rapidly (in accordance with the distance increase), but the current speed appears stuck at whatever the last real reading was, and the maximum speed is unaffected. I suspect it's to do with the car detection loops in the pavement, since the only other electronic things on my bike are lights, and I've seen this with them off. Is this how interference might present itself in the cyclometer? Are the loops indeed a probable source? Can I try to shield something to avoid it? <Q> The car induction loop seems to be the most likely culprit. <S> Their operation rely on an induction coil being buried under the street in front of the lights [1]. <S> When it detects a car, or for that matter your metal bike, as a result its magnetic field is increased. <S> This magnetic field is used for operation of the lights, but its conceivable that the field will affect the operation of your wireless comp. <S> It's questionable if it would affect a wired computer, as it would be shielded with the connecting cable. <S> When passing through the door in my local bike shop with my bike while having my cyclocomputer fitted I also see the same affect. <S> This time its down to the anti-theft magnetic detection loops fitted at the door. <S> [2] <S> I suppose the solution is to fit a wired comp instead. <S> Or else make sure you stay well back from/in front of the lights. <S> [1] <S> http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/question234.htm <S> [2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_article_surveillance#Magnetic_systems <A> thought somebody might be interested in this, I own a cheap repco bike computer ($20) and after removing the display unit from my bike and placing it next to my ipod i discovered it saying i was riding again. <S> Upon moving it away from my ipod i noticed it stopped. <S> This happened for multiple electronic devices in my home including computers and mp3 players (even tv's). <S> I am absolutely dumbfounded to why this is doing this. <S> I know it's not on topic <S> but it is very interesting <S> is it not. <S> if anybody knows why this is happening please enlighten me. <A> I don't go over the things too often, but I've never noticed this with a wired unit <S> (haven't had my wireless long enough to really notice this, since I don't do that much city riding). <S> The interference could work two ways. <S> Whatever the interaction is, it is a bit weird -- <S> Wikipedia says that the typical loop frequency is 10 kHz to 200 kHz. <S> But unless it's pulsed it's hard to see how it would affect the sensors themselves, and ANT operates at 2.4 GHz and should be pretty much immune to the loop frequency. <S> But the way you say it behaves -- getting "stuck" at the last valid speed reading -- is even more bizarre. <S> My understanding is that the ANT transmitter pulses for each turn of the wheel, and one would expect interference to register as regular pulses, generating a speed that's fixed for a given loop but not related to your former speed. <S> This points to the 3rd possibility that the cyclometer employs a phased-locked loop of sorts to filter "noise" from the speed pickup, and <S> the induction loop is simply overloading the cyclometer receiver to the point that it detects continuous noise. <S> In this situation the phase-locked loop would tend to maintain it's former reading, and you would likely see the phenomenon of a "stuck" speed reading. <S> In any event, more and more of the intersections around here use cameras instead of induction loops, so such interference is getting less likely (for me, if not for you). <A> For what it's worth, I'm completely certain now that it's the vehicle sensing loops causing the strange cyclometer behavior.
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There are several intersections where I can reliably make this happen by stopping over the loops - and many more where it never happens - so it seems to have to do with the specifics of the loop, too. Could be interfering with the wireless radio (which I suspect is ANT, a sort of poor-man's Bluetooth), or it could be that the pulses from the induction loop are triggering the reed switch pickups (or perhaps they use Hall-effect sensors in the newer units). It also seems to be directly interfering with the cyclometer itself, nothing to do with the sensor - I've seen it happen when the sensor wasn't on the bike.
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is it worth to change slx 2011 rear derailleur for xtr 2009? I bought a bicycle last summer a Specialized camber comp and it mounts Shimano SLX as rear derailleur. My intention is to change it for a xtr derailleur (from 2009) which is mounted in a bicycle I barely use, the derailleur is as new. do you think is worth to swap them? I am also planing to change the alivio shifters for a better ones since I think the whole set won't be balanced. <Q> In my experience, the differences should be so small that I wouldn't botter the trouble just for the sake of change. <S> But, if you have a GOOD REASON (noticeable performance or weight difference for intended use), then XTR, even 2009, should be better than a brand new XT, although I think both are very nice - to the point you cannot tell the difference if you couldn't look at them or know which is which while riding. <S> In the end, personal taste and preference would determine the best option, I think. <A> Technology in bicycle components, like other technology, is trickle down. <S> This year's XTR technology trickles down to next year's XT, XT's technology trickles down to SLX, SLX to Deore and so on. <S> If it were my components do with what I please, I'd sell the XTR derailer and buy an SLX shifter set to use with the SLX components on the bike. <S> SLX is nice, plenty nice. <A> There are at least 2 components to this. <S> First, 2011 SLX had the option to be 10 speed. <S> 2009 XTR is 9 speed, and so would not work with the 10 speed drivetrain. <S> It will if you have the 9 speed SLX. <S> As far as the actual performance difference, XTR gains its high level of performance from a lot of finely machined and (possibly over)engineered components working together. <A> Get the shifters changed out first. <S> You're unlikely to notice any difference with an XT rd if you've got budget shifters. <S> On the flipside if you've got the part sitting around already, there's no harm in changing it out - it's just not worth your time.
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If you don't have all of the XTR components, you will gain only a very small performance difference.
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Is my interval training routine effective for mountain bike training? During these winter months I am currently attending the gym 3 times a week. On each of the days I start my training on an exercise bike with the following: 5 minute warm up 30 minutes, 1 minute hard, 1 minute recovery 5 minute warm down I am using a specific interval training setting on the bike. I preset the training to level 15, which is a high resistance and as much as I can take. Hard is a cadence of between 80-90rpm high resistance. Recovery is a cadence of 60prm and the resistance backs off considerably, I imagine to approximately level 7. My heart rate towards the end of the session reaches 170–190bpm, and I am working flat-out. I turn 30 in March, am 5' 8" and weigh approx 168lbs. Does this training routine seem sensible for building strength and speed on the mountain? Should I be changing up the training with other types of bike training? It is also worth noting that after the interval training I perform free weight strength training too. <Q> Whether an interval training is effective or not depends mostly on your particulars relative to the interval. <S> Heart rate is only a very inexact measure of effort, but you seem to be roughly in the ballpark. <S> However, such quick switching between on/off interval state does not generally produce interval-like results and should be viewed as a single 30-minute interval at the average power of this period. <S> A better gauge of interval quality would be this: how long can you keep up the effort? <S> A more typical interval training might be e.g. 6-7 times 3-8 minute efforts, with 2-5 minute rests, at such intensity that you simply cannot complete another interval round. <S> A goal of "strength and speed" on the mountain is unspecific enough that you can be sure it's being helped somewhat, and in some way, by the intervals. <S> If you are still in shape to do weight training after your intervals, it means the intervals weren't done hard enough. <S> Do intervals and weights on alternate days. <A> I think there are several issues with your approach for improving power on bike: doing the same workout stresses the same aerobic pathway, since there are several ways your body can burn fuel it is worth exercising all of them. <S> This means doing intervals of different length with different rest periods. <S> Example: <S> 3x(12+6) min on and off. <S> The on part is similar to what you can do for 1 hour and the off part is half of that. <S> Another example: 3x(3+3) <S> min on and off where the on part is what you can do for 5 minutes, off part is half of that. <S> the intervals do not seem to be anaerobic, because of the short recovery period( anaerobic intervals need longer recovery periods ). <S> They are either Vo2Max intervals or Threshold. <S> If they are Vo2Max I think the workout is too hard, usually accumulating 6 to 9 minutes at Vo2Max in a training session is too much, if they are threshold <S> I don't think the approach is very good, better go with a longer interval period since threshold power can be usually sustained by riders for 30 to 60 minutes. <S> if you want to endure in long events <S> /rides you need to do longer sessions to have the endurance heart rate on an indoor trainer seems to be artificially high for me <S> , I think it is because of the poor ventilation. <S> Also power on the trainer is much lower then going outside, so pacing with heart rate on an indoor trainer seems to be a bad idea <S> at least this is my experience. <S> Suppose your 170bpm is upper tempo power, on an indoor trainer that might be actually upper endurance because of the artificial high heart rate. <S> for effective mountain biking you also need riding skills, these are not developed on a trainer. <S> An alternate way is to get a generic mountain biking endurance plan and build on that, it won't be perfect <S> but I think is much superior over what you have now. <S> Also, try to ride outside if possible, the workouts are better and you will enjoy the training much more. <A> To some extent whether it will be effective depends on your goal. <S> Are you trying to develop endurance or speed? <S> There's an article at <S> sportsci.org on the "Effects of High Intensisty Intermittent Training on Maximum Oxygen Uptake and Endurance Performance" which compares several different interval training techniques if Endurance is your goal. <A> At the end of this workout are you 'smoked'? <S> If so, then these are 'anaerobic endurance' intervals. <S> Some training plans suggest just starting these 6-8 weeks before your first "A race" <S> Some plans suggest you work on "muscular endurance" first with long fairly hard efforts = <S> 10m plus - then 6-8 weeks prior add anaerobic endurance intervals. <S> The two biggest abilities for MTB are said to be muscular and anaerobic endurance. <S> http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/01/build-period-overview.html
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I would try to look at the requirements of your specific events and target those, also try to do longer sessions on the trail to build the endurance needed to complete this events. However, it's counterproductive to do interval training and weight training both in one session.
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"Proper" cycling posture on a road bike with drop bars? Sometimes I feel a little pain in my lower back after cycling (nothing too long, mainly cycling around London for general commuting...5-10Km). It could be due to a number of reasons (I have a bad back anyway), but I would like to eliminate bad cycling posture as a possible cause. I can only find one mention of cycling posture on SE, but it refers to flat bars: Proper Posture on a flat bar road bike . My bike is the correct size for me I believe, using the old "its just the right height for my crotch..Ouch!" measurement. Does anyone have useful sources of information how to achieve the correct cycling posture? <Q> Whatever works. <S> The main advantage of the standard drop bar is that it offers you multiple hand positions and multiple postures. <S> In a sprint, or driving into a headwind, riding fully on the drops cuts wind resistance, but for less intense riding one of the several hand position on the top bar or on the hoods is usually preferred. <S> And on long rides the ability to change positions from time to time is invaluable in terms of hand/arm/back comfort. <S> And there is no one "right" height for your bar. <S> And you may also want to consider adjusting your "reach" by changing the stem -- not everyone's torso is the same length. <A> I would suggest two "first things" to do, having had these problems myself: Try to change the lenghth of cockpit, first via saddle fore-aft then via stem length. <S> It is important, first of all, to find the proper position of your saddle fore-aft respective to your pedals, so you are not thrown backwards or forwards when you pedal hard while seated. <S> Sometimes even a low handlebar might be comfortable if you have enough "lever" to pull your torso up with your legs (that would be when you are not too forward in the saddle). <S> If even this don't make you feel fine, perhaps try to bring your handlebar closer to you with a short stem (useful to correct the "superman" feeling of reaching too long) or farther away with a longer stem (useful to correct the "over the handlebar" feeling, which is not good for wrists and shoulders). <S> Try to heighten your stem and bar. <S> Since I started doing so, raising a bit each month, I'm still wanting more and more. <S> It doesn't make you anti-aerodynamic at all, and the positive effect of being comfortable and restfull over a bike is much greater than the not-so-great aerodynamic difference of an ultra-low handlebar (except if you are an athlete, of course). <S> If you are getting old (which mean over 28 :o <S> ( then you should consider to give up on those "super sporty" setups which are common on road race bikes. <S> Try to watch yourself during the day, to check if there is some bad postural habit you might eliminate. <S> Hope it helps <A> As I myself did not rediscover cycling until I was past fifty, I have found that some things get easier with time in the saddle and some things don't. <S> I have consigned myself to not ride a drop bar bike again. <S> Trying to lift my head high enough to see through my bifocals was too uncomfortable. <S> I talked to friends and borrowed all manner of bars and stems looking for a good comfotable fit. <S> I settled for flat bars with barend extensions to give me some position variations. <S> I may not be aerodynamic or stylish but I am comfortable and pain free. <S> Don't be afraid to defy covention as long as it works. <S> Don't forget to consider your hands in the equation. <S> Is a small bar diameter causing your wrist to hurt making you put more load on your back and neck? <S> Gloves have too much or to little padding? <A> It sounds like you haven't gotten the bike fit to you yet. <S> Most bike shops will have someone who can do that for you. <S> The bike shop can also help you get the right bar stem combo that will hopefully help your back issues. <A> Joe Friel (author of The Cyclist's Training Bible has an short article on riding posture available on his blog . <S> A lot of back problems start with the hip position. <S> Also, you say your bike fits you based upon a single dimension, but there are multiple dimensions to fit. <S> Your back may be hurting because you are reaching too far, and thus your back has to bridge a longer gap. <S> Also, no matter how well your bike fits, ultimately, it will take some muscle engagement to support your cycling posture. <S> Abdominal exercises go a long way towards alleviating back pain.
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Putting a different sized stem on your bike could fix the problem. If you're a real aggressive rider (and young and limber) then a lower bar position may be for you, but if you're somewhat more casual there's nothing wrong with raising the bar (so to speak). Finally, perhaps your back hurts when you ride, but it "is being hurted" during other times of day, like sitting in the office, running, watching TV or even sleeping.
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Is there any functional point of using alloy jockey wheels? Jockey wheels seem like the most pointless thing to upgrade on a bike. I can see swapping out the usual grey ceramic jockey wheels for an anodized alloy one to match the look of the rest of the bike, but I can't see any possible performance related reason to do so. Do they aid in shifting quality at all? I know that dura-ace and ultegra derailleurs use jockey wheels with bearings instead of bushings to improve durability, but they still use ceramics. Is there any benefit of using the alloy jockey wheels? <Q> Besides that, the main adventage comes with the (often coming together with alloy pulleys) <S> BEARING you already mentioned. <S> Finally, these bearings work better <S> suffer less without lube (don't wear out inside like plastic pulleys), and require much less lubing in the first place. <S> Well, these are my insights. <S> Hope it helps. <A> As someone who has given numerous dérailleurs smacks against rocks, which were light enough impacts to just be able to bend the cage back, but strong enough to split the jockey wheel - I'd say yes! <A> I could see the scenario of riding in really sandy gritty condition where grit might become embedded into the plastic and be transfered to the chain. <S> Even if the allloy jockey wheels were softer than the abrasive grit the anodized finish would take a while to wear off. <S> You would also benefit from the bearing being held in position against a machined surface versus a less accurate molded surface
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The material itself is not so important, I think, but for sure the alloy jockeys last longer than plastic ones. Besides eliminating lateral play and so improving shifting precision (in my perception), they also decrease rolling resistance and improve drivetrain efficiency. I have noticed that after cleaning they still have a rough texture.
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how do I paint a bicycle chain? I've seen chains with so many colours, white, red, you name it. I would like to give it a try (this paint job is intended for visual styling of the bike, nothing related to protecting it), but I have no clue on how to do it. I think there must be a way to paint it without "glueing" the links with paint, I don't know if spray paint does that or not... I'm sure I need to degrease it first, but then what follows? So, the question: How do I paint a chain without ruining it? (the painted chain needs to be in working conditions, it will be used). <Q> If you ride single/fixed, this part of the links never touch anything else, so the paint does not wear out neither damage other working parts. <S> I would do it degreasing the chain very well <S> (boiling with soap in the end, perhaps) and then using a hard foam paint roller, with the chain over the ground with its side facing up. <S> If you don't mind paying for the job, most the colored chains I've seen in google seem to be powder-coated (electrostatic) or anodized. <S> This would give a probably good result, but I think you wouldn't want to pay the price :oP <A> I imagine the homegrown process would look like this: <S> Apply as many coats as necessary Reassemble chain Re-grease chain <S> I imagine the manufactures process would look like this: <S> Paint one side of sheet metal used for chain links Manufacture chain as usual <S> Since the manufacturing process is much easier <S> I think it may be more worthwhile to just purchase one. <A> The easiest way is to fold the chain zig-zag style so that only the outer links are exposed (the inner links are only exposed at a bare minimum). <S> After cleaning it, spray light coats and watch for any dripping. <S> After you let it dry, use WD40 or something similar to get in between the links easily and work the chain by hand link by link to make sure it rolls smoothly. <S> I worked in a folding chair manufacturing shop in their paint department. <S> After they painted the chairs it was my job to get them folding proper, and that is what we did. <S> Works for chains too. <A> I see that the answers <S> "you don't, since the professionally painted chain costs less than a rattle <S> can spray paint" get downvoted and you are desperate to give it a try. <S> I'd then use an old trick I learned from my dad. <S> First of all, grease the chain properly, especially the moving parts. <S> As we all know - paint does not stick to greasy surface, so all the moving parts are hence protected. <S> Now carefully degrease the parts you want to have painted. <S> Spray paint or go with a brush over each link and leave it to dry. <S> Once the paint is dry you can easily wipe it off from the parts that were left greasy. <S> Don't forget that you either have to mask the bicycle (including front chainring) or, <S> what's much easier, just remove the chain from the bicycle before the whole procedure. <S> And no, my dad didn't paint the bicycle chains. <S> It was a general trick for quickly masking the parts that were not supposed to be painted while spraying the object.
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Take chain apart Clean links thoroughly Mask any metal to metal contact points on links Use airbrush or other spray paint on exposed portions. I think @freiheit already said it: paint the outside of the outer links!
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If you keep a bike inside for months in a row, do you have to check it? For example, if you keep it in a garage or in basement, I am thinking the tires might lose air and then the wheel will pressure down the tire. So do you need to check the bike once in awhile and inflate it? <Q> I'm gonna sorta disagree with Zen on this one. <S> The tires and brake pads won't rot overnight, the lube won't leap off the chain. <S> Properly lubed bearings won't corrode. <S> Disk brake rotors (and caliper brake rims) may develop a slight coating of oxidation, but that will be worn off in the first ten miles. <S> If it's been stored for several years, however, you may want to squirt a little oil on the chain and give it an extra wipe, both to get the dust off and because oil does slowly evaporate. <S> And check the tires and brake pads for rot. <S> Once or twice a year a bike should get its cables lubed, and the chain should be cleaned and reoiled every 200 miles or so (or at least once a year). <S> This is unrelated to how long it's been stored, but a good time to do this is when you take the bike out of winter storage <S> (though a better time is before you put it into winter storage). <A> Yes, if your bike is stored for more than a few weeks, you should check it thoroughly before riding it. <S> In addition, surface rust, and sometimes deeper corrosion can develop which would require a more complete service. <A> Zenbike covered it, but I would also add (would comment but don't have enough rep yet!) <S> that:- Organic Disk Brake pads can become degraded over time, especially if the bike is stored in a oily fumey environment.- <S> In our garage / outhouse we have a problem with mice chewing through cables.. <S> any cables they can find.. <S> nom nom nom yummy rubber! <S> As with most things, regular short usage is better than no usage at all.
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If you're talking months vs years, and the bike was stored inside in a location where condensation would not have occurred (eg, not in a cold corner of a basement in a humid climate), and the bike was in good condition when stored, then all you need to do is air up the tires and wipe the dust off. The tires will lose pressure, and the chain will need lube for certain, and depending on the length of storage, rubber components like brake pads, tires, and hydraulic seals may degrade.
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What causes my chain to derail at the rear when I accelerate? I recently bought a beat-up old mountain bike for commuting. I've tried to clean and adjust the derailleurs and everything seems to work well enough in my garage. But when I put heavy weight on the pedals (say, starting across an intersection after a stop light) the rear gear momentarily derails with a crash (or do you say the chain derails?), I flounder for a second, there's another ugly clashing sound, and then things go back to normal. Is this something that I can adjust my way out of or more likely an indication of a worn-out part? <Q> It sounds like the combination of your chain and cassette / sprocket are at the end of their lives. <S> Examine them for signs of wear. <S> To check a cassette for wear, look for pointy teeth. <S> A non-worn cassette will have teeth with a fairly flat ends. <S> To check your chain for wear, ideally you'd use a chain wear tool to check how much your bushings have been worn away. <S> If you don't have one of these tools, you can kindof tell when a chain is worn out because it will feel like the bushings are a bit loose. <S> Alternately, a drivetrain generally wears out at around 10000 kms (~6000 miles). <S> You can rack this amount up pretty quickly as a regular commuter. <A> another possible reason and something to check: From my experience - Stiff chain. <S> Often an old chains become stiff, in that the links are not very free to rotate around their pins. <S> This means that if you bend the chain around something (jockey wheels on the derailleur for example), it will want to stay in that shape until straightened out. <S> When you accelerate you are effectively feeding a lot of chain to the bottom of the derailleur and cassette / rear cluster quickly, and if the chain is stiff, it'll miss several of the teeth and jump about. <A> Yet another possible cause is frame flex. <S> In some frames the shifter cable is routed under the bottom bracket with part of the shifting cable exposed. <S> In this kind of kike, the cable has not full length casing, instead the casing goes from the shifter to some cable stop in the frame, then the inner cable goes to another cable stop and enters another casing length finally going to the derailleur. <S> Some frames can flex under stress and pedaling hard from a full stop can be enough to momentarily deform the frame <S> so the distance between certain cable stops changes, thus changing the cable position inside the casing which in turn changes derailleur position by just millimeters. <S> This position change is too small to complete a full gear shift, but is enough to make the chain "want to shift", hence the rider can feel skipping or "ghost shifting". <S> References: <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html#ghostshifting <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html
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A worn cassette will have teeth that have become pointier. The solution for this is either create or use a different cable routing (Some frames may have alternate cable routing) or simply use a single casing from the shifter to the derailleur.
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Pain on the sides of my feet I've been having pain on the sides of my feet (outside about midway back on the foot(. I was wearing a pair of Sidi's size 43. Went to a Specialized 44. Still have the pain, so I'm thinking it's something else, like how I have the cleats bolted on the shoes or even the pedals. How do I diagnose further? <Q> Shoe fit and the stiffness of the last are the first things that come to mind. <S> I'm thinking you have <S> a wide foot and cycling shoes are typically on the narrow side. <S> I've always had major issues with any shoe that was slightly too narrow for my foot. <S> I'd get cramping along the outside edge of my foot. <S> It gets worse when the shoe becomes stiffer (It's just hell for me to wear X-country ski boots or hockey skates). <S> As cycling shoes are meant to be something akin to a block of wood, that means for me I need to be certain the shoe isn't too narrow <S> or I'll be in pain really quick. <S> For my road shoes, the size is such that I actually have a slight amount of heel slippage which allows my foot to flex a bit more than what typically would be expected. <S> With my Mtb shoes, I go for the freeride type of shoes which don't give nearly the same amount of energy transfer <S> but my feet are way happier at the end of the day. <S> I had a pair of Sidi shoes a few years back (Awesome construction) but found that even the Wide width was narrow and caused me pain after a few hours of riding. <S> Specialized seem to fit narrow as well. <S> I've had to try on many a shoe to find a wide enough fit and usually I'm still left with having to go sockless just for a little bit extra comfort. <S> Get your foot sized by an expert and go from there. <S> If it's a width thing you'll know with numbers. <S> If it's something else then you can start to narrow things down. <A> Two major possibilities here. <S> Could be a combination of both. <S> I'm tempted to say it's the first one I'm going to talk about: <S> Given where you said your feet are hurting (outside, front) <S> I'd say you have your cleats toed in too much. <S> This is caused by your foot constantly trying to re-align towards what's neutral for you. <S> Here's what to do: What you need to do is take your right shoe, loosen the cleat bolts, and with the sole facing you turn the cleat ever <S> so slightly- <S> just a couple degrees before re-tightening. <S> Take your left shoe and do the opposite; turn the cleat counter-clockwise just a couple of degrees. <S> See if this alleviates the pain at all. <S> Repeat if necessary. <S> You'll know you've gone too far if you start to get pain on the inside front or outside rear of your foot. <S> It may be that the front of your foot is a little wide and you need a wider toe box. <S> Specialized shoes do have pretty wide toe boxes up to their Pro line. <S> The S-Works models get noticeably narrower in the front of the shoe. <S> Despite the fact that you were fitted for a standard width, a wider shoe may be more comfortable. <S> As long as your foot isn't sliding around side to side the shoe isn't too wide. <S> It's important to note that your foot flattens/widens when you press down hard on the pedal <S> so if your shoe is already pretty snug in the front you may need more room. <S> The material that specialized makes their shoes out of (at least the uppers on their S-Works shoes) does not stretch very much, so if it's at all tight now it will probably remain that way. <S> Don't dismiss the possibility that the shoe may just not fit your foot well from the get-go, regardless of width or size. <S> Cycling shoes are deeply a matter of personal preference, arguably falling right behind saddles. <S> What works great for one person may be a device of torture for another. <S> Keep this in mind and if the above suggestions don't help you, you might want to consider buying some cheaper model used shoes from different brands on ebay before forking over big bucks for a nice pair of shoes that you can't really try before you buy. <A> How is the condition of your pedals and cleats? <S> Maybe they are worn out and they need a replacement. <S> I've had a friend who rode with worn out pedals and he had a lot of damage to his knee. <S> My cleats also weren't attached the right way at first. <S> Someone who was specialized in body shapes on a bike attached them right on how I put power on my feet and pedals. <S> Maybe you are giving too much power on your feet and your cleats aren't attached the right way <S> either <S> (sorry for my poor language, I'm not native English)
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The other possibility is that the shoe doesn't fit you quite right.
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How to match a paint color? Do you know how to match a color on the frame ?I want to buy a paint from a tool shop but I'm not sure if it's match with the frame color.I'm going to use the paint for a touch up. Thanks for the info. <Q> If it's a modern bike of a decent manufacturer you could always drop them an email, and they might be able to give you the make and model of the actual paint they use. <S> Also remember you will have to lacquer it afterwards, and that has an impact on it's final look. <A> Try a local hobby shop. <S> They usually sell remote control cars,planes etc. <S> Look for model paints that are enamal. <S> Testors is a popular brand in the U.S.They have sets of different colors along with single jars. <S> You can custom mix the colors to get a match,say three drops of blue to one drop of black. <S> I paint my test samples on an old piece of ceramic tile,dry them with a hairdryer to speed things up and check the match in direct sunlight. <S> If the color is off scrape the sample off with a razorblade and adjust your mix and try again. <S> Once you get a match write down the formula for the next time. <A> I am also looking to touch up my bike and happened to find a website that sells bike touch up paint for a variety of specific brands. <S> It also had some DIY colors for custom jobs. <S> This is the website I found: mytouchuppaint.com, if anyone knows of any other options please let me know!
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The same way you would for any paint: find a swatch that matches it, or chip a bit off the bike, and then take it to a paint store and ask them to match it for you.
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Why is there a distinction between friction and indexed derailleurs? I've seen people make a distinction between a derailleur being for friction or indexed. Is this distinction somehow functional? I can't see how it could be, because every derailleur I've ever seen just takes a movement in the cable and translates it into a movement in the cage. <Q> With the possible exception of the newer electromechanical shifting systems, the derailleurs themselves are not "indexed"; they move within a range according to the cable movement. <S> The shifters control the cable movement, and are the thing that are indexed — not the derailleurs. <S> Most likely what people are referring to is whether the derailleurs are part of a part of a group that uses indexed shifting. <S> But assuming the same high-low range, take-up capacity (for a rear derailleur) and cable pull ratio, a derailleur that was originally part of a friction-shifting group should be interchangeable with an indexed shifting group and vice-versa. <A> With an indexed shifter, each gear change moves a fixed amount of cable. <S> The rear derailer is supposed to move a certain distance (the distance between cogs) for each fixed amount of cable pulled. <S> There is the fact about some sram levers not working with shimano shifters and vice-versa, and that's because each brand works with a different amount of cable pull per shift. <S> If you have a friction shifter, you can pull any amount you want, so you'll always be able to get the right derailer position for a given gear (of course, given your shifter covers the required range), and in this case you could use any suitable derailer. <S> So, the distinction you mention has to do with compatibility between a given derailer and a given indexed shifter. <S> If you match them wrong, shifting would be very disfunctional <S> (I've seen it happen). <A> Expanding on djangodude's comment, rear drive train groups (derailleur, cassette, chain, shifter) tend to be more sensitive to derailleur alignment. <S> They also tend to be designed to work together. <S> Various pins and ramps on the cassette exist to encourage the chain to shift up or down as necessary. <S> For a chosen gear, the derailleur "sweet spot" -- the position where the chain flows smoothly & quietly without trying to jump up or down a gear -- is narrower in an indexed group. <S> That said, you can certainly use an indexed group with friction shifters, but your shifting must be much more precise.
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Besides that, it would be theoretically possible to use a non-indexed derailer with a given indexed shifter, but only if they happen to have the same cable-displacement-to-lateral-displacement ratio.
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Any thoughts on spoke lights? I was considering getting some spoke lights to increase visibility at night, and although there are a number of options they all seems to have a relatively low battery life, or get bad reviews. Here are some examples: http://www.niteize.com/products/spokelit http://www.monkeylectric.com/ http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/SL-LD120/ The best value for money would probably be getting some reflector tape, however it doesn't offer as much visibility and also relies on the light shining directly on you. So if you were to recommend a spoke light, what would it be? P.S. What surprised me is that I haven't seen any battery-less solutions, which I would have thought would be the obvious choice. EDIT: Are revolights a good idea? Some things to consider before getting Revolights (which I will, because they are so damn cool) <Q> From my trials with spoke lights I have not found ones that I like, but I have learned a few things about them that might be useful to others with more money. <S> Illumination - It is important to recognize how much light the lights can put out, and not just when the batteries are fully charged. <S> Batteries - There are a multitude of spoke lights with all sorts of battery requirements. <S> A lot of them use the disk shaped batteries. <S> These range in hassle to install and maintain since some of them only use a single battery while others use varying amounts in different quantities. <S> Ease of activation and deactivation - Some are easier to turn on and off then others. <S> I prefer buttons rather then those you have to press on both sides. <S> Having lights that won't hurt your fingers might be a godsend. <S> Cost/benefit ratio - <S> The aforementioned Monkey Lights may provide a lot of illumination, not to mention a few points in style, but they are not cheap. <S> God forbid your bike gets stolen. <S> Besides I can think of a few other areas on my bike I would want to drop that money on. <S> But hey, at least you will get noticed. <S> Personally, I don't like the design of the SpokeLit. <S> It fails on 3 of 4 of my qualifications. <S> They are a pain to turn on and off. <S> They do not stay bright for long and the batteries are expensive. <S> Granted <S> I ride a lot <S> so your battery life may differ. <S> What I have thought about doing is wrapping my spokes in Glowire or something like it. <A> This is perhaps a bit tangential, but your question seems to assume that spoke lights will increase visibility at night...which may be true to an extent, but only to people viewing from perpendicular to your direction of travel. <S> Consider that you might get a better return, in terms of visibility-where-it-matters by improving your front and rear visibility (with lighting, reflectors, etc.). <S> A slightly different option for side/wheel visibility is to use reflective tires. <S> They're like normal tires but have a strip of reflective material on the sidewalls. <S> They're available in a variety of types and treads for road and mountain bikes. <S> Should the clamping mechanism work loose it could jam up at an inopportune time and cause an accident. <A> They are actuated by magnets attached to the spokes. <S> The higher end models have built in capacitors so they continue to flash for a short period after the bicycle is stopped.
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When you are riding around in the winter, one of the times you need to be seen the most, and you have frozen fingers turning lights on and off can be quite painful. Personally: I don't like anything on my wheels, particularly things that clamp onto the spokes. Reelight makes magnetically powered lights that attach at the wheel axle.
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Garmin Heart Rate Monitor Not Reporting Accurate HR Anymore With my first Garmin Edge 305, I got the cadence and heart rate accessories. Cadence is still humming along, but the heart rate monitor has been not accurately reporting heart rate over the past couple months. Two battery changes and various attempts to wet the contacts and my skin beneath have not resurrected the reliability of the heart rate monitor strap. Do you all have any further suggestions to try to get the Garmin Heart Rate Monitor working properly again, or is it time to just bite the bullet and buy a replacement heart rate monitor strap. If so, another Garmin-branded one or a different ANT+ heart rate monitor? <Q> If you get no different response, replace the strap. <S> BTW, I recently had to replace my Edge 305 because the PC drivers were blue screening my Win 7 PC. <S> If you use the Garmin software at all, you might consider an overall upgrade. <S> In addition, they've changed the design f the Garmin HR strap, so if you do decide to replace it, it will be with the newer soft strap, not the same as your original one. <A> It might not be the case here, as it states that problems have been for months, but last summer I had a similar problem, except that the belt was working perfectly. <S> The problem was caused by overtraining and my body was not able to give more than 165 bpm at maximum effort. <S> A few rest days solved the problem. <S> After that I paid more attention to rest and food intake directly after the ride. <A> especially during the winter/cold months static can be an issue (so I read when I was having the exact same problem)... <S> so i sprayed my HR band with Static Cling and it was the first true reading I've seen since I got it over a month ago! <S> Try it and see if it works...
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Given the battery changes, if you haven't washed the strap, try doing that, first with soap and water, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
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Whats the easiest way to clean my bike? Simple question, however, I am used to cleaning my bike at my parents house, I use some eco bike spray stuff leave it for a little then rub and hose down (I normally get it quite dirty riding down dirt tracks in West Sussex, UK). I am now at University and our flat has no access to a garden or hose pipe, the best place / possible way I can think to clean it is out on the pavement next to a busy road with a tub of water and a sponge. Would anyone recommend taking their bike to a garage and jet washing it down? Anyone found a really easy way to clean their bike with limited space? Don't forget to TF2 , thanks. <Q> In the winter when the garden hose is disconnected I use a watering can filled with warm water to wash the dirt/salt off the bike before taking it in. <S> I use mild detergent soap to speed up the removal of oil and grease then pour the warm water from the can to remove the soap. <A> In my experience, the only part which is problematic to clean is the chain (and possibly drivetrain). <S> In your situation, I would do the following: <S> This can be made very cleanly (specially if you wrap the plastic container inside one or two old socks before shaking); Take the bike to somewhere else outside, where you can wash everything else with soap, water and a brush. <S> A bit of degreaser first, on the drivetrain, might be needed. <S> A hose would be very helpful. <S> Let the drivetrain as the last part to clean, so not to brush the whole bike with an already dirty/greased brush. <S> Depending on each person, spending money might be better than spending time. <A> My (road) bike cleaning routine is pretty simple: <S> Remove as much black gunk as possible from the chain, chainrings, front derailleur and rear derailleur jockey wheels using kitchen towel (as long as you don't rub too hard, the paper doesn't shred). <S> Remove rear wheel and use a rag to clean between the sprockets. <S> Clean bike using warm water with a dash of washing up liquid, a big sponge and a cylindrical brush for brake calipers, under the saddle and other tricky places. <S> A work stand makes this process much easier, plus you can remove both wheels to clean them more easily. <S> Considering <S> it is acceptable for people wash their cars in the street, I can't see how anyone could complain about you cleaning your bike. <S> If you do use a pressure washer, don't spray around the rear hub or the bottom bracket area, as this can blast the grease out from between the bearings. <A> I have a similar living situation to yours, and I've had good luck cleaning my bike off with the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner. <S> I just bring my bike inside, and wait for the mud to dry. <S> Then I take the hose, and brush off as much of it as I can. <S> From that point, when I want to make it cleaner, I can use a rag, and some mild cleaning solution to touch up on the rest. <S> Obviously the drivetrain needs separate attention. <S> You should avoid "jet washing" your bike. <S> Pressurized water can easily find its way into bearings (usually bringing dirt with it), and ruin your bike. <A> For the Frame: I wash my bike with a sponge and warm water <S> and I usually have a towel that is under my bike <S> so I can squeeze the sponge in hard to get areas and the towel <S> grabs the excess under. <S> I wipe off with a dry cloth. <S> For the chain: <S> same as some comments above. <S> Cheers. <A> I only clean the braking surfaces, drivetrain and derailers. <S> I also clean the inside of the rims and the tubes as a way of warding off punctures. <S> For the chain I point a rag with a thin metal rod when its on the bike and shove it into each link, and used cotton buds are similar. <S> I also take the opportunity to inspect the tyres for bits stuck in them.
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Take the chain apart from the bike, and clean it shaking inside a plastic container with a small amount of your preferred degreaser or solvent, replacing the solvent a few times untill it comes out clean. Dish detergent might be fine. Another option is to send it to the bike shop and spend a little, but think about the time saved also.
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Why does my gear slip when going uphill / standing? I have a road bike that I use to commute ~6 miles to work every day. Some of the portions of the ride are at a steep incline, and I've noticed that when I get up to stand on some of these hills, my gear slips. I'm not sure if "gear slips" is the right term, but basically after I stand up my gear switches without me triggering it. It's very annoying and sometimes painful when I completely lose control of pedaling for half a second, not to mention the different gear setting. What could be the cause of this? <Q> In order of least expensive to most expensive, you either have a misadjusted derailleur, a very worn out cassette, or a crack in your frame. <S> If you're not noticing any problems shifting under normal circumstances, I'd odds are good that your cassette is worn out and your chain no longer meshes with the cogs correctly. <A> I'd go with the following hypotheses, beyond that already proposed: <S> Your derailer is a bit misadjusted, so the gear is already almost shifting down. <S> When you pedal hard, your frame flexes, thus releasing some cable, and the gear shifts "automatically". <S> This is specially true if you have a brazeon on front part of downtube, then the cable runs outside of the housings, probably passing through an under-bottom-bracket guide, and then enters housing again in a braze-on close to the rear shifter (I'm doing some paranormal guess, here, but you got the idea); <S> Two hypotheses are wild guesses, but maybe one of them is true (tell me if so ;o) <A> I had this trouble, and after checking the usual suspects (Replaced chain, cassette, cables, housing, and derailleur), it turned out my frame was failing near the bottom bracket. <S> Although it's the most expensive to fix: before you start replacing components, do a quick visual inspection of the frame. <S> Look for cracks/separations around the rear triangle. <S> This is a rare problem, but could be the most serious. <S> If you determine your frame is fine: Make sure your drivetrain is in good shape (not overly worn) <S> Your cables move with ease and don't need <S> replaced Your derailleur hanger is straight. <S> your cassette is tight <A> I had this problem on an old mountain bike. <S> I changed the derailleur and it doesn't do it now. <S> I noticed the old one was not screwed in very tightly when swapping out so this could have caused it. <S> I had a broken spoke and thought this caused it, re-spoked wheel with all new spokes. <S> I also swapped out the freewheel as I thought maybe the pawls had worn out. <S> Finally changed the derailleur and it worked. <A> As an addendum to other answers, this was happening to me (not ghost shifting but the chain jumping forward). <S> This started on a new chain, so I changed the cassette. <S> It still happened. <S> A test ride demonstrated that it only jumped in the middle chainring (by far the most used) even though it didn't look much more worn than the other rings. <S> So in this case changing the crankset was the solution.
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You have friction shifter, and the shifter is slowly slipping down, so that when you pedal hard it actually shifts.
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Can a fixed gear sprocket be changed without tools? I do not have a chain whip or sprocket ring tool. Is it possible to change the rear sprocket without these tools? <Q> For the lockring a hammer and screwdriver works sometimes, but you end up damaging everything involved except the hammer, sometimes to the point that you can't get the lockring tool to work after the fact. <S> Get the lockring tool. <S> There are semi universal ones that work ok. <S> The type that are designed to fit specific lockrings (ie 3 slot, 4 slot) work much better. <S> Either way they're fairly cheap. <S> Once the lockring is off you might be able to use your bikes chain and crank in place of a chainwhip, but this is yet another place where you're better off just buying the appropriate tool. <S> Once you have them you'll be a happier fixie rider. <A> Does it have a lockring? <S> If not, just get a friend to hold the bike steady and try to pedal backwards. <S> I don't have a lockring on my commute bike and, <S> after a series of braking manoeuvres in short succession, I've had my cog come loose while in action. <S> That's quite scary! <S> If you do have a lockring then, well, you can do it with a hammer and screwdriver - it's really just a question of whether you want to reuse it again. <S> Or just wander into your LBS and ask to borrow their tools. <S> Most good mechanics will gracefully decline, but will explain to you why buying one yourself is the best solution ... <A> I've heard of people doing it with a hammer and a screwdriver. <S> It's not the best idea though. <S> It won't be easy, and you'll foul the lockring and your cog's teeth. <S> Just plonk down the $20 on getting the proper tools for the job. <A> To complete jm2's advice : you'll need the lockring tool. <S> You could borrow it to your friend or go to your local bicycle workshop. <S> It has been described here by guys from Milano <S> , I assume you can use it to unscrew your sprocket : <S> Securing a track socket without lock ring <A> With two wood blocks in a vise or drawn together by long bolts, you can grip a sprocket without damage. <S> In the years when I placed a sprocket on my road hub (no lockring, even though a bottom bracket lockring would fit as a jam nut), it finally was on so solidly that I could skid the rear wheel without breaking free. <S> I seem to recall that in desperation one day, since it was a fixed gear bike, that I left the chain on the rear sprocket, while off the front sprocket allowing me to wrap the slack around the BB and secure it somehow. <S> Then I could rotate the rear wheel forward by hand, which was able to release the sprocket. <S> A home-made chain whip is not too hard -- metal about 1/8" thick, drilled to allow a chain pin through. <S> I don't think I added a length of chain for sprocket support, but rather let the 'whip' chain wrap around the sprocket. <S> The metal piece had to be reinforced with wood to prevent buckling. <S> Jim Papadopoulos
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There is indeed an "ingenious technique" I've successfully used to screw the sprocket without using any chainwhip : use your chain !
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What is a good roof-rack configuration for optimal gas mileage? I have a standard 2 bar roof rack (such as Yakima or Thule) with interchangeable and move-able bike / ski racks. I often carry 2 bicycles. Which will give me the best (least worse) gas mileage on my car: Both bikes as close together as possible, or on opposite edges of the roof? If together, centered, or on one side or the other? Front wheel on (full upright) or front wheel off (fork mount)? <Q> From my experience frequently carrying bikes, skis, roof boxes, and even 55 gallon drums on my roof rack, I've found that they pretty much all give a hit to the gas mileage, but the configuration doesn't really matter as long as you don't do anything ridiculous. <S> However, a fairing helps cut down on noise tremendously. <A> Basic aerodynamics, as I remember it from many years ago, would say the only one of those options that would be different from the others would be the front wheel off, but as to whether that would be worse or better I don't know. <S> With the bike angled down, the seat may have greater drag, and the top tube is no longer horizontal <S> so my guess would be that having the frame horizontal is best (it has been designed to have lowest drag in this position with a rider so this seems reasonable) <S> As to <S> where on the roof the bikes should be, the most significant drag is from the airflow heading from front to back of the car. <S> There is a minor effect over the edges of the car, but it isn't going to make a noticeable difference, so my guidance: Don't worry about the drag, and secure the bikes where you can make sure they aren't loose and can get them up and down without straining. <A> Just plan on going a bit slower if fuel efficiency is more important than time of arrival. <S> Whatever the detrimental effects of one placement over another, they'll pale compared to the the improvement gained by cutting 5-10mph off your average speed for the journey. <A> Your car's specific geometry will be the determinate factor in the optimal position. <S> Do a couple trials with round trips 10+ miles and in a couple configurations. <S> Short drives won't break the bank and they will help you figure out how to set up your rig for long travels. <A> We have a prius. <S> It averages 46mpg on our normal driving trends, but 48mpg on long stretches of 65mph trips with the roof rack, but empty. <S> Example test: 1 road bike, with a round tubed roof rack, and wind faring. <S> I also had a bug / wind screen bike cover. <S> On a trip of 500 miles we dropped to an average of 35pmg. <S> Giant drop. <S> 1 bike, 2 bikes, forward, backward, road or mtn, seems to be about the same 10mpg drop every time. <A> I would remove the wheels stow them in the vehicle,again to reduce the frontal area. <S> My experience has been that very aerodynamic vehicles are much more sensitve to drag ,they get high mpg by being moving air over the body very effiencently any disruption makes the smaller engines work that much harder.
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Do some experimenting with position, but the biggest difference will be by dropping your speed. I would not use any type of tarp or cover this would increase the surface area and increase drag and the flapping tarp will damage the paint.
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Chain "vibrates" on higher gears My freewheel that I have installed myself only 1.5 years ago has totally worn out by the moment and so I just had it replaced along with a chain at the workshop. I'm still concerned though about the previous one's extremely short lifespan and thus suspicious about my current setup as well. It's 7 gears freewheel on a folding bike (no front derailleur), and the problem is that it's feels very smooth on 4th gear. When you switch on higher gear up to the 7th, you start to feel some strange vibration as you pedal, which, I suppose, may indicate that the chain is not properly aligned and will wear the cogs out quickly. Am I just being paranoid? Apart from that, everything seems fine now - gear switching is smooth and under load they don't switch lower with a distinctive noise, as before with my old freewheel. Should I try to play with cable's tension to get rid of that vibration on the higher gears as I use them more often than lower ones? Thanks. <Q> "Vibration" could indicate a bad chain angle or a misadjusted derailer. <S> On the other hand, it's typical to have smoothest operation near the middle of the cluster and some very slight noise/vibration higher and lower. <S> Hard to say whether you have a problem or not without knowing the precise nature and severity of what you're experiencing. <S> Note that a chain will last roughly 2000mi or 3000km <S> (+/- <S> 50%). <S> After that it's sufficiently worn that it's beginning to cause excessive wear on the sprockets. <S> Also, if you're on your third cluster your front chainring is likely fairly worn, though the condition of a single front ring is usually not a major issue. <A> There is typically more feed back on smaller gears, it is impossible for me to tell whether your vibration falls within this typical increased feedback. <S> In my experience it has been all of the following at various times, those marked with a * do not apply to your setup: Only the smallest gear excessive vibration/feedback: <S> Rear derailleur needed adjustment on limit screw to allow it to gofar enough AND in another case to stop it going too far. <S> * <S> Frame protector needed to be moved forward as it was interfering with lowest gear. <S> Multiple lower gears excessive vibration/feedback: <S> Rear derailleur needed adjustment, typically the limit screw also needed adjustment, but not always. <S> * <S> Rear derailleur was not indexed correctly (for indexed types only) <S> Chain/cassette too worn/too much difference in level of wear. <S> Regarding the life of your freewheel/cassette: 1.5 years is a meaningless measure in biking but seems pretty good without further information to go on. <S> Distance, riding style, riding conditions, maintenance, and attention to chain wear + chain replacement will all play a significant role in lifespan. <S> For example: I've destroyed an SLX cassette (and chain) in 3 months and been quite happy with the lifespan, when considering all the factors that resulted in this "short" life span. <A> Is it possible that part of the folding mechanism is not aligned well resulting in frame flex under the heavier loads of the highest gears <A> I could try to explain it <S> but it's probably best if you read into Chordal Action (Chordal Effect) in chain driven systems <S> - here's a link: chain-guide.com . <S> Simply put, the effect is more noticeable in small toothed sprockets <S> tahn it is in larger ones.
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Front derailleur needed adjustment to stop chain rubbing. A rear cluster will last roughly 5000mi/8000km under normal use but will wear faster if a worn chain is being used. In your case I would play with the H screw first and foremost, especially if there is a significant and sudden increase in feedback between 6th and 7th gear.
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Should I tune up or replace bike? This question is about the economics of owning and maintaining a bike. I bought a brand new mountain bike for $250 some months ago. I ride about 30 miles a week on paved trails for occasional exercising. The cost of a yearly tune up in my area is about $80. Should I forgo the tune up and buy a new bike every 2 or 3 years? The bike was bought online and is of similar or better quality than those cost $350+ at REI. Entry level but for my purpose it is fine. <Q> My answer would be: Politely ask the bike shop what you are getting for that $80 tune-up. <S> I'm of the same mind as @danielrhicks, <S> Depending on what they are doing for that $80, I would be trying to do some/all of that tune-up <S> myself - regular cleaning, pumping of tires, checking "stuff" isn't loose, visual check wheels aren't buckled. <S> If you don't have the basic skills of bike upkeep, maybe there is a local community centre, or bike club that give free classes on how to take care of your bike...or even ask questions here! <S> :) <S> To me, if you take regular care of your bike then the big jobs are seldom and cost less. <S> I'm not saying don't get those regular tune-ups, <S> but maybe you can ask them to focus on the brake cables/wheel straightening - jobs you can't do yourself. <A> Bikes should not be disposable. <S> A nice and good bike that fits you is worth much more than the material value of the bicycle itself, even if it is expensive. <S> Finding a good bicycle is more (and much more difficult) than just paying for it. <S> So, my (biased) suggestion would be: keep riding, keep going "stronger", keep getting pleasure from it, and notice how much you can benefit from quality over cheapness. <S> From personal and lots of friends' experience: A good bike makes you ride more; A bad bike makes you ride less; A good bike lasts WAY longer than a bad one, and you will always ride with best quality; A tune-up on a good bicycle lasts WAAAAYYY longer than the same tune-up on a low-profile bike. <S> You can get your money back, but you cannot get your time back, or your health back, or your pleasure back; <S> (this I got on the web) <S> "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten." <A> I started doing my own maintenance way back when rather than pay "shop rates". <S> Simple adjustments of the sort you mention are easy to learn to do and require a minimum of tools. <S> For the price of one "tune up" you could buy a nice repair book and a set of basic tools.
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And, if you ride for fitness (or even SPECIALLY so), your health (or lack thereof) due to bicycling itself in the first place, might be worth way more than the elusive cost savings of buying and spending "cheap". $80 sounds a lot for a tune-up, unless they are trueing your wheels (in which case you're paying for the mechanics skills), and replacing parts (in which case you're paying for...parts).
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How do I correctly set the angle of my drop bars Are there any tricks to setting the correct angle for the drop bars on my road bike, when adjusting my handlebars in the stem? Is it just a matter of personal preference or is there a general consensus on what angle you should use? <Q> I will post my "non-specialist" way to do this setup, considering: I have no current bicycle with drop bars; <S> I've been bred on bicycles riding flat-bar mountain bikes, no tape; <S> I have more than one bicycle, and the following method is the only one I use for any bike (currently use a lot of riser bars, have used some albatross-style bars). <S> The method: With your chosen stem already tight in place, and your saddle the height you usually ride, install only the naked bar(bare metal), and don't tighten it too much. <S> Install the brake levers in a "starting position" (but not the bar tape) and attach them to the brakes so they actually brake. <S> Don't overemphasize the brake lever position for now. <S> Instead, focus on the bar position itself. <S> Let the clamping bolts a bit loose, so you can get the "sweet spot" with precision and without too much effort. <S> When done, tighten the stem bolts. <S> Repeat previous step for the levers, clamping them lower or higher. <S> Find the ideal balance between comfortable "in the hoods" position, both for hand rest and brake reach, and a good brake reach in the drops. <S> You can use the "classic position" (whatever it might be) as a reference, but not as a measure of quality. <S> Your comfort, functionality and safety should always be the measuring rule. <S> When done, tighten the brake levers clamping bolts. <S> Of course, these steps might be adapted freely. <S> Hope it helps. <A> There are more than a few factors to consider when adjusting the angle of your drop bars. <S> Moreover, it is important to consider that your stem length and angle, in combination with drop bar dimensions and shape, will affect your final drop bar's ideal (albeit ultimately personal) <S> setting. <S> I'll use the following image for my examples below: <S> Consider the bar alone, as a floating object in 3-dimensional space. <S> The alignment of the drop portion of the bar in relation to the ground provides a starting point for creating a natural alignment. <S> Commonly, you will find the ends of the drops to extend to the tail of the bike in a parallel fashion to the floor. <S> However, due to the wide variety of bar shapes, this method will fail to help you set up your bars. <S> As seen in the example image, the drop portion extends towards the floor due to the "short" drop segment. <S> In combination with the brifter, some may prefer the connection between the bar's tops and the brifter's hood to be parallel to the ground. <S> This creates a smooth transition between the bar and brifter, creating a comfortable surface for your hand to rest on for long periods of time. <S> The example image shows this quite well. <S> The hoods resting area has a smooth transition with the bar. <S> The ideal method for adjusting the combination of bar angle and brifter angle would be to remove the bar tape and start from scratch (bare bar). <S> But as @DanielRHicks mentions, this all comes down to personal preference, however a good starting point always helps! <A> Handlebars will be mounted parallel to the ground or angled slightly upward. <S> While they may never be pointed down at all, they may be angled up slightly; allowed handlebar tilt is to be between 180 and 175 degrees with respect to the level road. <S> Modern bars, however, dictate that this may not always be possible, so tolerances are permitted within reason. <S> Brake hoods should not approach anything near 45 degrees, as some riders with poor taste have been insisting on doing. <S> From the rules .
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The brake levers will preferably be mounted such that the end of the brake lever is even with the bottom of the bar. After tightening everything in position, go out for a short ride "in the field", perhaps in light traffic, or in the road (a rolling terrain with crossings would be perfect), and perform some final adjustments; Get back home and wrap the tape. On an empty parking lot or the like, ride the bike while trying a lot of handlebar positions, rotating the dropbars forwards and backwards until you can grab a good and comfortable grip either in the drops, or in the upper parts. The angle of this resting area is a matter of personal preference, but as with any adjustment, a neutral 0 degree (parallel to floor) setting will do (as in our example image).
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How important is it to face the head tube? I have a frame that I've built up and I'm having trouble getting the tension perfect on the headset, which is not usually something I have trouble with. A friend of mine who is much more knowledgeable than I about these things suggested that I should look into facing the head tube. I've read that it's not always necessary. Is there much truth to this? edit: Nothing is damaged or chipped. The frame has its factory paint. <Q> In most headset designs, bearings sit between a pair of cups and races, one half on the fork steerer and the other half press-fit into the head tube. <S> If the cups are not parallel at both ends of the head tube, then you'll find it difficult to adjust the headset to the proper tension without binding - the cup will be meeting the race at an angle and it can seem too loose in some places and too tight in others. <S> The process of facing is ensuring that the ends of the head tube are parallel. <S> The previous question of Why don't frame manufacturers ream/face their frames? <S> addresses a little bit how a new frame can end up needing to be faced. <S> In general many frames manufactured today don't need it, but if you are having issues it's certainly worth pursuing. <A> Does it start out tight enough, but loosen as you ride it? <S> I had an older steel frame years ago that would do this. <S> The faces were not cut completely parallel so they had to be faced. <S> If it's been repainted as cbamber85 mentioned, it could also be affecting the seating of the cups. <A> There's less danger in facing a headtube than there is in facing a bottom bracket, as a headtube can be most any height- <S> the same can't be said for bottom bracket shell width. <S> You should read the answers to this question for related information.
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Sometimes it's just a matter of getting down to bare metal, sometimes the tolerances are indeed a little off and the surfaces of the top and bottom of the headtube aren't perfectly parallel. For most modern, quality frames it is not necessary, unless you have a problem in which case it might be worth a try.
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Is this a good source of food for 25-50 mile ride? I like to mix almonds, walnuts, raisins, cashews and dried blueberries together have them as a snack throughout the day. I've never tried this food source on a 25-50 mile ride. I'd like some thoughts from knowledgeable people on how good this would be to eat during a ride. Anything good to add to this? <Q> The EXPERIENCED CYCLIST, who is not, eg, out of shape after a long winter does not need any food for 50 road miles. <S> This is because his muscles and liver have "learned" to store extra sugar/carbs to provide energy over a long period of time. <S> But a beginning cyclist who is not, say, already a distance runner or otherwise used to exercising vigorously for several hours DOES need some extra carbs along the way to keep his blood sugar up, not, perhaps, for a 25 mile ride, but for a 50 mile one. <S> (Note, you DON'T want large amounts of fat or protein -- these do nothing to help your sugar levels and they are hard to digest.) <S> The form of the carbs is not especially critical, other than the food should be chosen for convenience, neatness (you don't, eg, want chocolate smeared all over your hands), and personal taste. <S> Avoid foods with any significant amount of fat, and avoid spicy or strongly flavored foods -- these may seem appetizing at the store but do not go down well or "sit" well on the road, especially if you allow yourself to become a hair dehydrated (which of course you shouldn't do, but it happens). <S> A modest amount of salt is desired, but too much (without enough water) can send your stomach on a spin. <S> (The nut-raisin snack, by itself, is just a tad "heavy" for my taste, and may be a hair too heavy in terms of fat. <S> But as one of a small variety of snacks it's fine, and likely a decent source of salt.) <S> I would say figure on about 500 calories of mostly carb snacks for a 50-mile, 3-hour ride. <S> This isn't nearly enough to replace the calories you burn, but it is enough to prevent a low blood sugar condition. <S> And, of course, HYDRATE! <A> Although for anything of longer distance, you're going to want to add significant quantities of carbohydrates. <S> Nuts are great, but they're primarily fat and protein. <S> Toss some M&Ms and raisins into that mix for an improvement, and make sure there's some salt in them. <S> But really, 25–50 miles doesn't require any sort of well-tailored nutrition. <S> Just bring water and any kind of tasty snacks <S> and you'll be fine. <A> That said I'm unfit as anything <S> and I'm not sure that 25 to 50 miles is that far even for me. <S> Make sure you have water or an electrolyte drink and you should be fine.
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Really, any source of food is fine for a 25–50 mile ride. I pack bananas as my cycling food of choice.
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Getting a dura ace 7800 derailleur to work with 10 speeds I have a bike set up with a dura ace 7800 derailleur, specifically listed as a 9 or 10 speed model. I am interested in getting it working in the 10-speed configuration. Two things: I remember reading somewhere that you have to rout the cable a certain way to get it to work with 10 speeds, but I can't remember how to do so. I can't get it to rest in the bottom gear even when the limit screw is all the way out and the cable isn't attached. I can easily force it into place, though. I am considering taking out a spacer from behind my cassette that the instructions said I would be needing. Any advice? <Q> The Dura Ace 7800 rear derailleur has two different positions for the pinch bolt/clamp that holds the cable in place. <S> One of these positions will limit the derailleur's range, and make it incompatible with 10 speed systems. <A> There are 2 limit ("H", "L") screws and one tension ("B") screw on Shimano derailleurs. <S> They all 3 need to be adjusted properly. <S> My guess is you need to adjust the B-tension screw and/or the cable tension. <S> There are excellent instructions at Park Tool and sheldonbrown.com . <S> I would advise that you carefully follow those instructions in order, and see how it goes. <S> DA 7800 should not require special cable routing unless you're using it with older shifters , but that's not likely to be the case since you said 10-speed. <A> Don't know what to say. <S> I didn't have any trouble with mine in 10 speed configuration. <S> I didn't do any special cable routing, just backed the limit screws all the way out (I seem to recall there's an outer AND inner limit screw?) and tweaked until it worked... <S> Only thing of note that I remember at all was moving one of the spacers on my cassette so that it would freewheel (cassette I'm using says it's not compatible with the wheels I use and indeed turns the bike into a fixie, but I found that moving a spacer makes it compatible and lets it freewheel).
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If you loosen the bolt, re-orient the clamp, and tighten again, it should work on your 10 speed system without any problems.
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What type of bicycle rack should I buy for my car? I have been biking for a while now but mostly for my commute to work. Now, I am interested in doing longer rides and trails as summer is almost there :). I need a bike rack for my car, which is a sedan (Toyota Corolla). I have a road bike, and a mountain bike, so I might carry one or the other or both at times. What should I consider when buying bike rack / carrier for my car? <Q> There are basically 3 rack options: <S> Roof mounted Trunk mounted Trailer hitch mounted <S> In the "trunk mounted" category there are those designed for conventional trunks and those designed for hatchbacks. <S> In all three categories there are racks that support the bike with both wheels on and "fork mount" racks that connect to the front fork to provide stability. <S> Fork mount is especially handy for rooftop racks since it eliminates the need for some sort of vertical support which is unstable and hard to attach. <S> But fork mount only works if you have a quick release on the front wheel and nothing such as a front rack that interferes with mounting. <S> There are arguments for/against all styles. <S> The rooftop units require some strength and a bit of "tallness" to use, but are otherwise the most flexible, and capable of carrying 4-5 bikes. <S> They do produce the most wind drag (and lost MPG) on long trips, though. <S> It may be hard to find a trunk-mount unit that suits your car. <S> And a trunk mount unit is generally only well-suited to a single bike, maybe 2. <S> Trailer hitch units are pretty good -- easy to get the bike on/off, able to handle 2-3 bikes and not too sensitive to bike style. <S> But they are not particularly stable on rough roads, and they of course require a car with a (fairly heavy-duty) trailer hitch. <S> (If you decide to get a trailer hitch installed to accept a bike rack, try to get a 2-inch "class 3" one, rather than the smaller class 2. <S> This improves the stability of the rack.) <A> Pretty objective <S> but I'll give you my opinion and my reasons. <S> I prefer hitch mount racks for a variety of reasons: <S> Hitch racks sit in the slipstream of your car and thus you get better gas mileage than a roof rack. <S> Roof racks take a noticeable hit on MPG even when there's no bike mounted <S> It's harder to forget that you have a hitch rack attached to your car than it is to forget that you have a roof rack. <S> I have seen many a roof-rack/car/bike combos get royally messed up as a result of absent-mindedness. <S> You can typically see your hitch rack in your rear view when backing up If you have a hitch on your car, hitch racks are typically cheaper than roof mount equivalents. <S> If you need a hitch installed, do it yourself (it's not that hard) and the prices will be <S> about even Hitch racks come off of your car easily and can be shared with other vehicles that have a hitch assuming the receiver size is compatible/ <S> an adapter is available Hitch racks are more secure than trunk racks <S> you can fit in the garage, and more importantly, drive through the drivethru with a hitch rack. <S> Greasy food is important post-ride and your legs are too tired to walk inside <A> There are a lot of good answers above. <S> One thing that hasn't been mentioned: You (OP) said that you had a road bike and a mountain bike. <S> Depending on the style of mountain bike, it may not work with some carriers that hold the bicycle from the top tube. <S> There are adapters available to fix that: http://www.discountramps.com/bike-adapter/p/AA-8602/ . <S> Or, you could also get a platform/wheel mount bicycle carrier , where the bicycle tires rest in channels on the rack. <S> Those are available in both trunk mount and hitch mount styles, although the trunk mount ones are a bit bulky. <S> Roof mounted carriers are great in that they don't block tail lights and license plates, and they don't add to the length of the vehicle. <S> With smaller cars like Corollas or Fiestas, lifting the bicycles shouldn't be too difficult (especially lightweight road bikes).
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Hitch racks dont goober up your paint like a roof rack can and like a trunk mount almost certainly will It's easier to get bikes on/off a hitch rack than an equivalent roof rack, especially if you're short or your car is tall or both.
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Why do my disc brakes squeal when wet? Picture the scene... It's just been raining and you are getting ready to commute home after work, you cycle out on to the tarmac, the scent of fresh rain on hot tarmac fills your nostrils, you notice a pedestrian push the button on the traffic lights up ahead, the lights turn red and you gently squeeze your brake to stop before the line but at the same time your brakes let out a horrific squeal frightening the pedestrians and ruining your street cred. What's the deal? why do my disc brakes squeal when its wet, and is it possible to prevent this? Is it more common for disc brakes to squeal and why? I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30. <Q> They squeal because water acts as a mild lubricant. <S> That's why things are "slippery when wet" ;) <S> The water makes it harder for the pads to grab onto the rotors. <S> They'll grab for a small fraction of a second and then let go again, and they do this really fast. <S> Imagine the squeaky sound that a your finger makes when your run it over a smooth wet surface, or the sound your shoes make on a tile floor when you just came in out of the rain. <S> Same sort of thing, only constant. <S> With bike brakes and disc brakes especially, the braking surface (the rotors for disc brakes, the rim for rim brakes) will find a harmonic resonance and thus the really loud tonal squeal. <S> All brakes have the potential to squeal, especially when wet. <S> I wouldn't worry much about it unless you find that your braking power is being significantly reduced. <S> In such a case, try some different compound pads. <S> Metallic pads are generally considered to be superior in adverse conditions but they're also loud as hell in the rain/mud. <S> Everything is a trade-off, don't ya know? <A> Street Cred? <S> I've almost lost trail ridding buddies due to squeaking brakes. <S> It can fly off your chain if you spin the cranks to help work in fresh lube. <S> I try to be extra careful on my mountain bike with disc brakes when I lube my chain. <S> Rotate very slowly putting one drip per bushing, then pedal very softly just a few rotations, so none flys off and potentially onto the pads. <S> Let the lube settle in and wipe off any excess lube. <A> My all-weather commuter bike has discs. <S> In my experience, cleaning the discs with window cleaner (e.g. Windex) reduces the squealing. <S> Allegedly, better results can be had by cleaning with automotive brake disc cleaner, but I've not yet tried this. <A> I suffered from terrible front brake squeal when wet. <S> I'd tried cleaning the rotors and pads, I'd tried different organic and sintered pads, none of it made any difference. <S> But finally I have solved it - by changing the rotor. <S> The original rotor was the Avid one that came with the brake calipers (BB7s), which is pretty light and spidery. <S> The replacement is a Shimano rotor (SM-RT61) that has far smaller cutouts. <S> Now with the shimano rotor and sintered pads the brake only rarely, and very briefly, squeals. <S> Interestingly the rear brake was identical and never made any noise. <S> This is on a Surly Ogre frame, with an eZee hub motor on the front (I mention the hub because the motor hub has vastly more inertia than a normal front hub, and this might be a factor in the resonance). <S> As usual, YMMV. <S> By all reports disc brakes are pretty fickle things and what fixed my problem might make yours worse. <A> Some manufacturers specifically state not to use automotive brake cleaners. <S> They suggest rubbing alcohol. <S> I don't know why, perhaps it might loosen the adhesive bonding the friction material and the backing plate. <A> With auto brakes it's because of the thin layer of corrosion that's built up on the rotors. <S> No experience with bike disks. <A> I ride a Scott Scale 10 2010, Avid Elixir CR Mag + Avid 160mm rotor rear, Avid XX <S> Elixir Cr/Mag (Awaiting new replacement F Elixir CR Mag) + Shimano 180mm rotor front. <S> Brake pads A2Z Superior Sintered Brake Pads High Temp resistant F & R, these babies do not like water but will stop you dead under any condition! <S> Pads & Discs <S> when wet will screech & loudly, add rolling down dusty trails will make it worse. <S> The effect of cleaning pads and rotors with alcohol is that alcohol evaporates faster than water but the screeching disappears only after downhill riding and heating up the rotors enough to bed in and dry fully the pads and rotors after cleaning but only until wet and dirty again. <S> Noisy is better than poor braking, upside is, your riding buddies will know when you are coming up behind them downhill and make way. <S> Roll on the long dry summer. <A> My brakeset is Tektro Auriga <S> 160mm front and rear, both of them squeal like a beaten pooch during rainy rides. <S> It is caused by the particles of the pads trying to grip the rotors but because of the wet condition, some of the particles are unable to grip the rotors. <S> Pretty much the same when you rub your wet finger on a stainless steel. <S> It makes a "crieeek" sound and you can feel your finger like rubbing a rugged surface
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Keep the pads clean and you'll brake much more quietly (unless your skidding and trying to be loud). Its most likely oil or other grimy substance built up on the pads. I guess that the difference is to do with the frame stiffness and resonant modes being quite different front and back.
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