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Is front suspension remote lockout worth it? My old city bike is getting worn out and I'm considering getting a new and better bike. I will use it for my daily commute (paved road - very uneven in places) and the occasional trip outside the city on unpaved roads. I have decided that a cross-road bicycle/29'er is what I'm looking for. I have created a check list with a few points: Large wheels (29'er/cross-road) Good brakes (hydraulic disc brakes) Front suspension with lockout Remote lockout of the suspension For the price/quality level I'm considering it seems that remote lockout is a very special feature. So far I've found a single model with remote lockout (the Trek 8.5 DS ) but I'm still undecided if I want better brakes and suspension than this model offers. I've never had a bicycle with front suspension before but to me it seems like a no brainer to get remote lockout. I expect to have the suspension locked on my daily commute, but I know several places on my route where I would think having an unlocked suspension would be nice. What are my best alternative? Keep looking for a bike that satisfy my needs including having a remote lockout? Being unsuccesful doing this made me come here for advice. Look for a bike that satisfy my needs with the possibility of having a remote lockout mounted aftermarket? I don't know if this is possible without a significant cost increase which detracts from this solution. Forget about the remote lockout and just keep it locked for my daily commute just as I do today where I have no suspension at all? <Q> First off many forks have a remote lock out as an add on. <S> Fox and rock shox especially. <S> If it has a lock out, a remote lock out is likely available. <S> Secondly, a nice fork that is set up properly for your weight shouldn't need to be locked out all that often. <S> I have had a variety of great fox and rock shox forks that i only lock on long, steep, grueling climbs where I am standing and pumping. <S> This was more needed on a single speed. <S> If you plan to sit and spin up a hill you dont need the lock out at all. <S> Out of the last 5 forks i have had, all had a lockout, but only one with the remote. <S> While the remote is convenient, I have never found it difficult to reach down and lock out on the fork while riding. <A> A remote lockout might sound like a good idea in theory but in practice you will find it largely unnecessary for the type of bike you're considering getting. <S> That's not to say that it wouldn't be nifty to have, but I think you'll find that you will use it so rarely that you might regret limiting your purchasing options based on that feature. <S> Remote lockouts are useful on mountain bikes because they allow you to quickly change between a more efficient platform for non technical flats and uphills and a more forgiving platform for downhills and technical sections without ever having to take your hands off the bars. <S> That said, I know some mountain bikers with remote lockouts that use them all the time <S> and I know some that barely use them at all. <S> The inconvenience of having to take your hands off the bars to twist the knob on the crown typically isn't that significant. <S> Many mountain bikers find remote lockouts totally unnecessary. <S> For a hybrid style bike (that is a very general term, btw) <S> I personally would worry that it's just one more thing to go wrong. <S> If I were you, even if I liked the idea of a remote lockout I would consider it a bonus feature <S> but I would by no means base my purchase choice on it. <A> With really good tires you might not need suspension at all. <S> I put Marathon Plus tires on a hard-tail for commuting, and find that the heavier tire gives me confidence and suspension to ride harder than before over broken pavement. <A> A remote lockout option is nice for changing terrain when you do not wish to stop to adjust the lockout suspension. <S> As a commuter, you may find yourself stopping normally for various traffic intersections. <S> It is at this point you could make an adjustment to lock or unlock the front fork before continuing the next section of your route. <S> One is safety, but also many front forks without the remote lockout are not designed to be adjusted under load. <S> You could damage a non-remote lockout fork by attempting the adjust it while riding. <S> Many manufacturers place their manuals online, so you can research a particular fork to better understand its capabilities. <A> As ChrisW, unless you're riding ovr pave regularly you don't need suspension for a commuter IMO. <S> Bontrager (I thknk) sell aftermarket 29" forks too.
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It may be possible to physically reach the lever on a non-remote lockout fork during riding; however, this isn't necessarily a great idea for a few reasons. On One (UK & EU) sell 29" compatible carbon rigid forks that will improve ride quality over steel / ali forks.
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Do silent freewheels exist? I have only just noticed that my bike dosen't seem to make a lot of noise when free wheeling, in fact it's pretty much silent. Is this down to the fact that I have been putting off a major clean?, is my bike damaged? or is my bike equipped with a silent freewheel that I didn't know existed? I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30 Mountain Bike <Q> Your hub has a normal freewheel, like described by Matt Adams (ratchet with pawls). <S> When you spin it to the other side, the cylinders are caught between opposite surfaces, and torque is transmitted by friction (there is no positive engagement between parts). <S> Lots of backpedal-brake rear-hubs have this system. <S> Shimano had a Deore LX named "Silent Clutch" with this mechanism, but it was heavy. <S> Also, I know at least one model (American Classic) which instead of the spring to load the pawls, have a rotary disc to engage and disengage the pawl, and a tiny hair-sized spring which act as the freewheel for this plate. <S> It is a very silent and low-friction system: <A> Short answer. <S> Hub integrity can not really be judged by noise alone, but by feel. <S> The full monty. <S> A free wheel hub consists of a few key elements. <S> The splined hub body, springs and pawls. <S> The spline is a series of ramped teeth. <S> Slipping one direction, gripping the other. <S> This allows the coasting. <S> Fancy hubs may have more splines than cheaper ones. <S> The pawls are little teeth that grip the spline, and are spring loaded to keep them engaged when the cassette body is spinning faster than the hub. <S> So as a hub wears, its usually the splines or the pawls loosing their crisp shape, or the springs in the pawls no longer being strong enough to keep the pawl engaged. <A> It very much depends on the freewheel mechanism in the hub, some make a nice "clickerty" noise, others are more silent. <S> The hub will be sealed and this should prevent dirt etc. <S> getting into the mechanism. <S> If anything it is likely to get noisier with penetration by dirt & grit rather than quieter. <S> Looking at the bike spec, my experience of Shimano hubs is they are quiet compared to other brands. <A> We had the Shimano "clutch hubs" on some of our police patrol bikes. <S> Seem to work well, my bike is about 15 years old and it's been trouble free. <A> The performance aero wheels are loud. <S> These companies employ the best engineers, and I am sure they are aware of the noise they create. <S> It's marketing. <S> You can hear a Zipp wheel being pushed through a parking lot. <S> I think it is a lot like loud mufflers on a car. <S> I am Mustang, hear me roar! <S> There are two major styles for freehubs <S> and they relate to bearing placement. <S> Shimano et al use an internal system that is heavier, but more durable and so much quieter. <S> That is highlighted above. <S> Zipp, Envy, etc use external pawls that brush past a toothed ring pressed inside of the hub body. <S> It makes a noise reminiscent of a playing card in the spokes while coasting.
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The quiet smooth feel, but working normally is just a good, sealed hub that the manufacturer built in a way that has smaller or less splines. If you feel it slipping under load the hub could be damaged beyond repair. There are some models which have spring-loaded cylinders mounted around "tilted" teeth: when you spin it to one side, the cylinders slip.
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What tools do I need to disassemble and re-assemble an 80's road bicycle I would like to do maintenance on my 1982 miyata 310 road bike myself. What tools are necessary to take the entire bicycle apart, lube, and put it back together? Here is what I have come up so far: Bicycle stand Hex wrench set Chain breaker <Q> It depends to what level you want to disassemble. <S> For general cleaning your list is a good start. <S> As you dig deeper though you'll also need: To service/adjust drivetrain <S> Various spanners and screwdrivers to adjust cables Wire cutters if replacing cables <S> To service wheels/hubs <S> 15mm spanner to remove wheels (unless you have quick release hubs) <S> Chain whip and a cassette tool to match your cassette to remove rear cassette Cone spanners to remove and replace the hub cones Spoke wrench (ensure you get a good one that fits your spoke nipples exactly, as it's very easy to damage the nipple) <S> To service cranks/pedals/bottom bracket Pedal spanner to remove the pedals <S> Depending on the cranks you may need a crank puller To remove the bottom bracket <S> you may need a special spanner/tool To service forks/stem/head tube <S> If it's a threaded fork, varying sized spanners to undo the nuts on top of the fork <S> If it's threadless, your hex spanners will be okay Bearing cups - from the head tube there are specific tools to remove and then press them back on As @Chef <S> Flambe mentions it can be more economical to buy a kit containing many of these tools . <S> This will give you a head start and you can buy the specific tools you need for your bike, as well as upgrade to better quality for the tools you use frequently. <A> Probably should add a few spare parts/supplies to have around: <S> A spare tube or two Tube repair kit Spare spokes and nipples (one length for front, two different lengths for rear, unless you have disk brakes in which case it's likely the other way around). <S> Chain lube <S> If you want get into rebuilding bearings, some bearing grease, a bottle of parts cleaner/solvent, and something like a loaf pan for washing parts in. <S> Spray lube for brake/shift cables <S> (Anything else??) <A>
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Besides the other things mentioned you will need: Big spanner / variable spanner for releasing the headset Grease
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What are the advantages of angling your saddle down? I have seen a few people do this where their saddle was angled down a bit. Why would someone do that? <Q> In general, I don't know why one would do this. <S> Especially men. <S> Here's what Sheldon Brown has to say, and I tend to agree:"If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle. <S> This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands. <S> Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands." <S> Lennard Zinn mentions that a "very slight" tilt in either direction may be optimal for some riders; but no more than ~2 degrees. <S> Basically the same reasons that Sheldon Brown mentions. <S> The downward forward tilt adds pressure on the arms, back, and shoulders due to sliding forward. <S> You want your "sit bones" to be on the widest part of the saddle. <S> If you slide forward, the pressure will shift from the sit bones to the perineum; and that's probably a bad thing. <S> There are special cases for tilting the saddle nose downward; but for the general rider it's not necessary. <A> I had some saddles that in some bikes were best with a slight tilt down, otherwise they would crush my perineum. <S> One of my current saddles (Brooks) is tilted nose-up, otherwise it is very uncomfortable because I feel thrown forward. <S> In the end, I think it depends on: Rider's anatomical shape; Saddle shape (in case of a leather saddle, might change over time); Overall position of the bike (if you put the saddle on different bikes, optimal tilt might vary; Cruise speed of the bike. <S> If you pedal hard, tilt down might be fine. <S> If you pedal slowly and upright, most probably tilt down would be very uncomfortable. <A> Tilting the saddle forward relieves lower back pain. <S> Don't take my word for it; here is a clinical trial in the British Journal of Sports Medicine: <S> http://m.bjsm.bmj.com/content/33/6/398.short <S> They tilt the saddle forward a lot (10-15 degrees), and show big improvements in back pain. <S> I had this problem and it worked for me. <S> If you look at the spine position drawings it's pretty obvious why: tilting forward means your back doesn't have to round so much. <S> Though 10-15 degrees is a bit extreme I think. <S> 5-7 degrees was enough for me. <A> I tilt the seat down slightly to make it much more comfortable for me to ride, When the seat is horizontal, I find I end up with pain from that narrow part of the seat pressing where it shouldn't. <S> Tilting the seat down means that I am only in contact with the slightly wider part of the seat. <S> The way I have my bars set up means there is no possibility of sliding forwards on the seat. <S> While my bike is a road racer, with bars and seat set up accordingly, I use it for commuting - about 35 miles a day. <A> Quite a few bike messengers tilt their saddle forward a little bit. <S> Personally, I do it because if you're riding a long distance, it will put more weight on your arms, tilt you forward, make you more aerodynamic, it's better for speed, and it takes the weight off of your "sensitive areas". <S> There are some pretty interesting studies about riders with perineum numbness. <S> Tilting the saddle forward will help relieve the stress on the mentioned area, and put more of it on the sitting area. <S> BE CAUTIOUS: <S> this will put considerably more stress on the arms and shoulders. <S> Be prepared. <S> As with anything else, your body will adapt naturally after a while. <A> <A> I have what most people would call an extreme forward tilt on my saddle. <S> I use a racing saddle with a large cut out. <S> The reason I use this angle is to stop me getting pressure on the perenium. <S> I have been riding like this for around twenty years to the derision of "experts" wherever I go. <S> I recently rode the new forest epic. <S> My first sportive with no training in 6.01 with no ill effects and no nasty numb areas. <S> I sit on the top wide edge of the seat and the nose drops away at that point and makes no contact with sensitive areas. <S> My riding position is aggressive but feels comfortable with my body almost acting like a stressed member with weight spread between between balls of feet on pedals, hands on hoods and bum on top edge of saddle. <S> I understand there may well be loads of studies done on bike fit and there may well be a bible on the ultimate riding position, but maybe more time should be spent looking at "people"in relation to bike fit. <S> I love riding my bike. <S> I have a reasonably decent boardman roadbike. <S> I do not own a car <S> so I use my bike to commute, for recreation and fitness. <S> I love my wacky but effective riding position!!!? <S> Enjoy your riding everyone:-)
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For time trialing, or other riding where the rider will be in a very aggressive position for extended periods of time, a slight tilt forward can relieve unnecessary pressure on the perineum. Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down.
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Rust on chain and cassette It looks like rust on my chain and cassette. Both were new 5 months (4000 km) ago. The chain is about 60% worn/stretched. I've been riding 5 days/week, 40 km/day, Toronto on mild winter roads, and using only 'dry' lube (i.e. alcohol and teflon) on the chain. What should I know about that? I like to keep my bike in good working order, so that it rides very well (but, arriving home each evening after an hour-long commute, I have had no time for bike care: I just lock it, in the laundry room). Is this rust only cosmetic? Should I use a winter lube? What (product or servicing) should affect/prevent rust on the cassette, if that's necessary? When I replace the chain (when it's next serviced, perhaps two months from now) should I ask the LBS to replace the cassette again as well? <Q> It's unclear how much rust you're talking about, but it's unlikely that a bike could develop serious rust on a chain in 5 months unless left outside with no maintenance. <S> I've dealt with some pretty rusty bikes over the years (especially when I spent a spell working on donated bikes for Christmas Anonymous) <S> and I've never seen a cog that was so rusty that it was unserviceable. <S> The chain, of course, is a different matter, but generally rust on a chain is of little consequence unless it causes "stiff links", and that won't happen on a bike that's used regularly. <S> I'd recommend that you switch to a slightly less "dry" lube (or <S> at least give the chain a few squirts of regular oil every now and again). <S> Also, if you've been cleaning the chain at all, be a little less diligent cleaning it <S> -- it's not necessary to get it shiny bright, you just want to get off the crud. <S> Otherwise don't worry about it. <A> Your rusty chain: <S> The chain is not ruled by the calendar or by mileage/kilometerage; it is ruled by elongation and/or by corrosion damage. <S> Chain life varies depending on chain type, maintenance, riding conditions, and strength and weight of the rider. <S> However, as a ballpark number, figure on replacing the chain every 1,000-1,500 miles (1600-2400km) if the bike is ridden in dirty conditions or with infrequent lubrication by a heavy rider. <S> Lighter cyclists riding mostly on clean, dry roads can extend the replacement time to 2,000-3,000 miles (3218-4828km) with poor maintenance, and up to 5,000 miles (8046km) with a daily high-quality lubrication. <S> (This is basically ~10 minutes every day. <S> Park, wipe, lube, done.) <S> You can do this with a chain-elongation gauge or with a ruler. <S> When it becomes elongated; replace it. <S> You don't replace the chain by the calendar. <S> Your chainrings and cogs: <S> The number one thing determining the lifespan of your chainrings and cogs is how well you maintain your chain! <S> If you always replace the chain when necessary (elongated), and keep it clean/lubed you can easily go through 3 or more chains before needing to replace the cogs. <S> Cleaning the cogs, chainrings, and the rest of the drive train frequently (at least weekly) will also expand the lifespans of these components. <S> (This takes 10 to 15 minutes for a quick cleaning.) <S> In your situation, your cog-set may be damaged at this point, and if so, you need to replace it. <S> However, once you replace that and your chain, you can get a lot more mileage out of your entire drivetrain with some basic, regular maintenance and lubrication. <S> With a quick daily wipe-down and lubrication, the rust issue should disappear. <S> Note: <S> Answer based on experience plus advice by Lennard Zinn books and Sheldon Brown's web site. <S> I like Pro Gold for chain lube. <S> Others may have different opinions as there are a number of high quality chain lubes on the market. <S> Anyway, just get a high quality winter chain lubricant and use it. <A> As @Daniel R Hicks, In my experience chains can show surface rust very quickly once having regular exposure to water, especially in the winter if roads are salted. <S> However, don't worry too much by the rust. <S> If you are cleaning your chain using water & degreaser etc. <S> then apply water repellent such as WD40 to the chain afterwards. <S> Wipe dry and then lube. <S> If riding regularly in wet weather I'd as above recommend a specific wet lube, typical application is put a reasonable amount on and wipe off excess. <S> Move the chain up and down the rear cassette to give that a coating. <S> In dry weather I use a dry lube as they attract less muck <S> but it is best to use a "little and often" approach to adding to your running gear. <S> Re. <S> Cassette: <S> It is advisable to change your rear cassette at the same time as your chain so that you get even wear, otherwise the shifting can be affected. <A> Lube <S> In winter time i use a special heavy duty lube. <S> It doesn't protect the chain a lot better than other oils but it wears off much slower giving you a bit of slack on the maintenance. <S> None of this matters of corse if you don't clean it every now and then. <S> If you clean it once a week, say every friday before locking it away for the weekend, you should be fine. <S> Cassette <S> Even with proper maintenance/cleaning <S> it's hard to completely avoid rust in the winter. <S> The road salt loves the metal on your bike as much as you do. <S> A narrow steel wire brush is really good at removing surface rust. <S> When it comes to chains: They are cheap. <S> Better to change it once too often and save the more expensive cassette so you can ride it longer.
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The best thing you can do to improve chain life and performance is to frequently wipe it down and lubricate with a high quality chain lube* appropriate for the conditions. The next thing is to regularly check for elongation, say a couple of times a month.
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Why are both Schrader and Presta valves still used on tubes? It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader. I personally think Schrader are better: I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta No problems if needing to use car pumps Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims Less fiddly <Q> The main thing is that the Presta valve is thinner, and takes less of a bite out of the rim. <S> This is quite important as the rims get narrower. <S> Further, the Presta works better with hand pumps in that there's no spring that the pump needs to overcome to get air into the tire. <S> Also, the Presta always has the fully-threaded body (which is possible with Schrader, but rare), so a nut can be used to hold the valve in place -- again, quite important with hand pumps. <S> Never had a bike valve stem break on me, that I can recall. <A> This primarily comes up as the pressures in the tires get higher. <S> With lower pressure wider tires, Schrader makes the most sense, if only because you can hit a gas station for some air pressure. <S> Presta makes more sense on higher pressure tires, since it allows you to pump in higher levels with a floor pump. <S> Per the comments let me try and clarify. <S> When you use a Schrader stem the valve is depressed by a thingy in the pump head the whole time. <S> With a mechanical constant pressure pump (like at a gas station) this is fine. <S> Then as you build pressure in the pump, when it exceeds the tires current pressure it forces the value to open, allows air in, and repeat. <S> Thus you can pump to higher pressures with it. <S> (Or at least with poorer quality pumps. <S> But if it bothers you, get the little one dollar adapters, and you can use a car pump with no issue. <A> Schrader valves are more robust, this is the reason why you see them universally in use for vehicle tires. <S> With Presta, you have to be more careful when putting in or taking off the pump nozzle or you might bend or even break either the rotating (locking) tip of the valve. <S> You could also go to literally any gas station to pump air to your tires if you are using a Shrader valve. <S> Presta's advantage is that it is thinner and the rim has a smaller valve hole in which case it makes the rim stronger. <S> This can be a factor especially in thin bicycle rims. <S> Another advantage of Presta valves is they can be made longer, a lot longer in fact than Shrader valves. <S> This is especially important when you have deep aero type rims. <A> I've also had fewer issues with crap clogging the valve with presta valves; as long as you remember to spin the valve closed you don't need a valve stem cap. <S> This is particularly important if you're riding in mud or dirt. <S> I run presta on both my road and mountain bikes for this reason. <A> I have used both presta and shrader valves, like neither. <S> I go for Blitz/Dunlop. <S> Easier to use than both others. <A> Your rim will be drilled for one of the two. <S> Usually a schrader. <S> A presta (which is thinner) will allows fit in a schrader sized whole, but give more freedom for the valve to move around, often causing a valve wall tear and leading lots of people to think " <S> wow what a useless valve". <S> A typical case of human error. <S> This can easily be countered with a schrader to presta valve converter, a cheap little bit of plastic cushioning which usually costs pennies. <S> Prestas are far more performant in terms of the amount of pressure they can hold, and the rate they can take air in. <S> Schraders are widely used not just because "they're the best" but because they've become a standard which is hard to break away from. <A> In addition to what others have said, many gas station air compressors won't push the tire pressure past 80 psi. <S> This is fine for cars where the tires are usually inflated to about half that, but no good for a road bike where you probably want 100+ psi. <S> This means that you're stuck using a floor pump, a frame pump, or a Co2 pump alll the time. <S> And as others have mentioned, Prestas just work better with hand pumps. <S> And if you're filling your tires to 100+ psi all the time, you might as well have a valve that works easily with the pump that you'll be using.
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But with a floor pump where there is a pause between pumps, Presta works better because each time you release pressure, the valve head closes. Maybe it is just a case of what you are used to, but I think the Dunlop least fussy, easiest to use and least likely to fail.
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What's the benefit of a titanium skewer? What's the benefit of using titanium skewer beside the fact that it's light?Is it strong enough to hold my weight? <Q> Titanium is an alloyed steel, and has no limitation on weight or riding style, generally, although there are likely ultra light versions which do have limits. <A> Titanium alloys are typically made of Aluminum and Vanadium: <S> e.g. on a 3AL/2.5V Ti bike Frames for instance there is 3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium and the rest is Titanium. <S> Titanium parts are usually very very long lasting, mainly due to resistance to fatigue and corrosion. <A> I have broken a Ti stem that held my handlbars. <S> Ti seat rail <S> Ti frame (in 3 places now, alas) <S> So Ti is not magical, but this is on a 18 year old frame now, so not that surprising. <S> I have broken several axles, but steel ones have been sufficient for the last few years for me. <S> I suspect weight is the only benefit, however when you care at the level of a few grams, it seems silly when a full water bottle weighs almost a kilo. <S> (1 litre of water weighs 1 kilo) <A> The rear wheel (with a Ti skewer) on one of my road bikes would flex and rub against the frame when I stomped on the pedals or climbed a steep hill <S> no matter how tight I made the skewer. <S> I fixed the problem by switching to a steel skewer. <S> No more flex and even the rear derailleur shifts better. <A> For skewers, weight. <S> That's it. <S> Ti skewers will make your bike and your wallet lighter. <A> Ti = really expensive = really light = usually racing parts = <S> shortened lifespan due to the gram saving which actually weakens the parts for the long haul. <S> If you race and need every ounce shaved off and your sponser is paying <S> then they're great. <S> If you don't race or are paying your own way then you'd be better off spending your cash on something meant for longer life and trying to skip that post ride beer to save on long term weight. <A> It is light, and doesn't corrode. <S> The skewer doesn't take weight at all - that is all held on the axle. <A> For skewers, other than weight and durability, one unmentioned advantage of titanium is its resistance to corrosion . <S> Rusty steel skewers can get stuck inside your hub, forcing expensive replacement which is much less likely with titanium (you should still grease them though).
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Main benefits of Titanium is no corrosion, immense resistance to fatigue (material failure due to cyclic constraints), and weight indirectly (i.e. stronger material allows to use thinner tubing, for bike frames for instance). Aside from weight, there is no real benefit. The skewer just provides compressive force to stop the axle dropping out of the forks.
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Guidelines for buying a new seat So far my only approach to buying a seat is "That looks like a good one, I'll buy it and hope it works for me." That isn't very cost effective... I don't think the bike store will let me return it after I ride around on it for a few hours. Which means if I don't like a seat that I bought, I'd have to buy yet another one just to try it out. What are some good guidelines for selecting a new bike seat that doesn't feel like I've been sitting on a block of wood? How do you select one that "fits" when trial-and-error isn't an option? I own a mountain bike and enjoy trail riding, but these days I ride on pavement most of the time. <Q> Many bike shops actually offer demo saddles <S> so riders have a chance to try them out without buying them. <S> You should call around any see if any of the shops in your area offer such an option. <S> Saddles can be uncomfortable for two main reasons: because there isn't material where you want it, or because there is material where you don't want it. <S> When you're sitting on your current saddle, where are you feeling pressure. <S> Ideally, it should be on your sit bones. <S> If it isn't, do you need a saddle that's narrower or wider? <S> If you're having issues with numbness, you might find it beneficial to adapt a saddle with a cutout. <S> If you're experiencing chafing, you probably need a narrower saddle with less padding. <S> You may also wish to examine the angle of your current saddle. <S> A typical rider will want to have the saddle horizontal, but even a few degrees of tilt can make a huge difference. <A> Some shops do offer a fit guaranty,it doesn't hurt to ask. <S> Bring in your old saddle and explain to them what doesn't fit. <S> They should be able offer suggestions. <S> This is a classic case where spending a few extra bucks at the local shop can pay dividends later. <A> Definitely follow the other answers advice to find a shop that offers demos. <S> I wanted to add that one of my local shops (that carries Bontrager) <S> has a saddle sizing station that they have you get up on and measure widths/lengths and whatnot. <S> The saddles for this particular sizing tool are Bontrager specific, but wanted to let you know at least. <S> Be sure to wear what you plan to ride in you <S> have a local shop that offers this service as when you get sized, you will want to be wearing the same gear you'll be riding in for the most accurate measurements. <S> Even with this sizing, ask if you can demo the saddle for a week or so. <A> First, a technicality, but the part you're looking for is a saddle, not a seat . <S> Second, the gold standard for commuting, touring, and essentially all non-racing saddles is the Brooks tensioned leather saddle (in particular, the B17 Standard ). <S> As opposed to a typical saddle which is a foam core with a plastic shell, a tensioned leather saddle will, when broken in, adapt to the characteristics of your particular behind. <S> I swear by mine, as do virtually all those I know who have them. <S> If you ride in any brevets (200km+ rides), you'll also note that almost all the participants have them.
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If you can't demo the saddle, the first thing you need to figure out is why your saddle is uncomfortable.
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Does the top tube typically open into the head tube? This must be a very basic question, but as it often happens with very basic questions, it is often hard to find the answer by searching. On a modern bike with metal (welded) frame, is the interior of the top tube (and/or the down tube) accessible through the head tube? I.e does the head tube have holes in it that lead into the other attached tubes of the frame? From what I could see on the Net, it appears that the head tube is typically a full cylindrical tube, without any holes. Is that so? Meanwhile, it seems that I have some parts rattling inside the top tube of my bike (Specialized TriCross), which routes the rear brake cable through the top tube. I wonder how they got there, if the interior of the top tube is not accessible (aside from two fairly small cable holes/openings) <Q> So, yes, there is virtually always going to be a hole connecting the interior of the top tube and the head tube (along with every other tube on the bike). <A> I can't speak for all bicycles, and methods of construction, but I just checked on one of my aluminum framed bikes that I have lying around, and both the head tube and the seat tube had small holes (smaller than the diameter of the top tube, but perhaps 5-10mm in diameter) opening up into the top tube. <A> Most welded (metal) frames will have vent holes for welding gases and heat from the welding process to escape. <S> That makes it easier to prevent the frame from warping from the heat. <S> That is the 5-10mm millimeter holes described in the answer by @prototoast . <S> Most carbon frames will have much larger access in to the top tube and down tube, especially recently designed frames. <S> However, the noise you are describing sounds like it has a different cause, like the cable stop for your brake cable breaking loose inside the frame, or a piece of the cable housing, perhaps. <S> Have your LBS mechanic check out your frame. <A> From what you described: Rear brake routed through inner top tube; Rattling appeared in the inner tube after hard braking; I would suspect (95% certainty) that the rattling comes from the very rear brake cabling/housing/routing. <S> The cables/routings could be removed to check if the rattling persists; Since the inner tube is not directly visible (and so one cannot know for sure what's going on inside), perhaps contating the manufacturer to ask for advice could be a good idea, too; Also, a more detailed description of the conditions of rattling (with the bike moving or not, when the bike is leaned, when front/rear wheel is lifted from ground, on certain types of terrain, only while braking, only while NOT braking, etc.) would help to narrow the possibilities. <S> Hope it helps
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Any welded tubes are going to have holes in their ends in order to let the hot gases escape.
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What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel? What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel from the wheel hub? It looks like a 12mm or 13mm Allen key. Will this do it or is there some detail I have missed? <Q> EDIT: <S> This is an HG 50 Cassette. <S> This is an exploded view of a Shimano freehub showing the 10mm or 12mm allen key used to remove the freehub from the hub shell. <S> Instructions for removing either a cassette or a freewheel can be found here . <S> If it is truly a freewheel. <S> then this is the appropriate tool, the Park FR-1: <S> If you need a cassette remover, then this is the appropriate tool, the Park FR-5 <S> : <S> along with this one, or a similar chain whip: I hope that is helpful. <A> The freewheel is a part of the hub, and normally you never have to remove it. <S> (On old bikes, the cassette and the freewheel came as one unit, and screwed onto the hub body. <S> Nobody makes them like that anymore.) <S> Read the Park Tools link that Daniel gave you. <S> Go about halfway down to "Cassette Cog Lockring Removal and Installation" - it should tell you everything. <A> You will need a sprocket chain whip for holding it and a tool for opening the sprocket lock ring... <S> it's very easy job with the proper tool...
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The HG-50 is a cassette , not a freewheel . I believe this is the allen you are referencing, but it need not be removed to remove the gear cluster. You'll need a lockring tool to unscrew the lockring, a wrench to hold the lockring tool, and a chainwhip to hold the cogs and keep them from spinning as you're loosening the lockring.
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Cycling in high traffic roads Riding on roads? I want to go to the work (in São Paulo, Brazil), by bicycle. But I live in a neighbor city, and I need to get a high traffic road. What is your experience with this, and could it be safe? <Q> I live in Brazil too (Porto Alegre), and I would adivise you to use only roads with wide shoulders ("acostamento") or avenues. <S> Unfortunately, as the vehicles' size (trucks, buses) get bigger than the lanes, biker safety tends to zero. <S> The most important device I installed in my life is a big helmet-mounted rear-mirror. <S> It took me two weeks to automate it's use, and another six months to cope with the anxiety of looking all those vehicles coming "straight" after me, something I didn't care so much while I was not able to actually see it. <S> Now I've "mastered" its use, <S> I almost nothing look behind turning the head. <S> But sometimes I look more to the mirror than to the way ahead... <S> VERY useful and HIGHLY recommended. <S> Also, the faster you ride, the safer you are, specially on saturated/near-congested traffic, because you can choose your lane positioning without tempting the rear drivers to overtake you. <S> So, it's worth to invest on a relatively light bike, with relatively narrow/hi-pressure/slick tires, and a pair of strong legs <S> :o) <S> But, like Guilherme Santos said, things are getting better, slowly. <S> At the same time, unfortunately, dead cyclist news are not uncommon. <S> But, what choice one has but to ride? <A> As Chris says, a lot depends on the road, the traffic, and your riding style. <S> But if you must ride in the driving lanes a big part of safety is knowing how to "claim your lane" and having the courage to do so. <S> This means riding well towards the center of the lane rather than trying to stay over towards the edge. <S> But we here in the US have no way to judge the nature of the traffic (or the drivers) in Sao Paulo. <S> If drivers are too aggressive/macho then it becomes unsafe to cycle in traffic. <A> Riding here (Vancouver, Canada) in the city is quite different from what you're talking about (i.e. no highways and "high-traffic roads" would be the main arterial streets), but I still thought I'd chime in... <S> Personally, I avoid heavy traffic whenever possible. <S> I don't consider the amount of time I'd would save by riding on a major street to be worth the risk. <S> I find it much more pleasant to ride on a quiet side-street than a busy road. <S> There's probably more risk of a car blasting through an intersection on an side street, but on the other hand I can hear them coming. <A> It can be safe and/or it can be dangerous: depending on the road, the time of day, and how you ride. <S> I have been hit once (from behind, not my fault).
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If you have a road with a generous shoulder then you can usually ride on that safely in even the heaviest traffic.
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Learning to bunny hop on a MTB I have watched many video clips on YouTube on this topic. Also, seen couple of pros do it without clipped pedals. But I just cannot lift the back tire up. How do you hook your feet on to the pedals and pull it up? The pedal slips and i always end up getting an seriously blow to the knee. <Q> The trick is to remember how pedals are designed to grip. <S> Decent pedals should grip your foot from going forwards or backwards, as well as obviously holding your weight. <S> The only direction they don't grip is upwards away from the pedal. <S> The trick is to rotate the pedal so that it's allows you to grip in the direction you want. <S> You rotate your feet towards 45 degrees and you will be able to actually grip your pedals to pull up the back end of the bike. <S> Keep in mind how the pedals grip and you shouldn't go far wrong. <S> Assuming you've dipped the front of your foot the action you need is effectively pushing backwards and upwards at the same time to lift your rear wheel. <S> Don't dip it so much that you end up going off the front of the pedal though. <S> The backwards push should keep you gripped on the pedal while the upwards action lifts the wheel. <S> As you said, there are plenty of videos out there. <S> This one explains it in a way that roughly matches how I figured out how to do it. <S> The relevant part is about 2:10 in. <S> http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/video/2011/feb/21/danny-macaskill-video <A> If you are having problems lifting the back wheel then you can try practising it on it's own, without lifting the front wheel: <S> Start by riding at walking speed and getting into a low attack position (ie. <S> standing on the pedals, knees bent, hips back, back flat, elbows out). <S> Smoothly shift your weight backwards. <S> Lunge forwards, pull with your arms and push your pedals back. <S> Hopefully your rear wheel will lift! <S> Get your weight over the bars and let it rise. <S> Once your have it dialled you can combine it with lifting the front wheel to hop. <S> Breaking the hop down into two separate components also helps when you aren't carrying enough speed to clear an obstacle in one go - first you can lift the front wheel over, then you can lift the rear. <S> I also recommend you check out <S> LeeLikesBikes for some great information and videos about hopping. <S> Personally I'd always recommend a good pair of flat pedals for learning skills like this - they force you to use good technique instead of 'cheating' by pulling the pedals up. <S> If you can't bunnyhop on flat pedals you can't bunnyhop. <A> I learnt on a BMX <S> but I can bunny hop on 24/26 inch wheels to, the skill is transferable one you get the feel for the lean back. <S> A bunny hop is not a bouncing action... <S> although you CAN get the bike off the floor in this method - I call that method hoppity hops, it's incorrect and will hurt your wrists. <S> You can hop with suspension if your bike has it, not the same thing. <S> The bunny hop is several movements that blend into one. <S> Throw your weight backwards Punch FORWARD on the bars. <S> (Forward is an upward direction when you are leaning back) <S> Jump hard, focusing on tucking your legs as close to your body as you can. <S> Now to explain why this works... <S> So stick your bum out. <S> Pushing up gives you more height and pushing forward brings the back wheel up. <S> You need peddles which actually have pins that aren't worn out <S> or you can slip a foot. <S> I find that you don't need to focus on pushing back with you feet to keep grip, you naturally wind up doing it when you push forward on the bars and crunch legs. <S> It took me a while to get the technique correct, I started jumping over a single flat 2x4. <S> Then after I got comfortable doing that I put the 2x4 on it's side, to double height... then just progressed like that. <S> Practise required! <S> It's not very fun at first <S> but once you get down the technique and start making some progress <S> it's very satisfying! <S> (Also, clip on peddles are for racing. <S> You'll just injure yourself and learn bad technique using them for tricks) <A> Well, I do it with clip-in pedals like http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano_Pedaling_Dynamics <S> There is a part on your shoe that clips into the pedal and thus sticks. <A> I think of a bunny hop of more of a bouncing action - the upwards lift comes from bouncing the bike hard downwards first and the lift comes as a "reaction" to the downwards bounce. <S> The skateboard trick called an ollie uses the same concept. <S> So don't try to lift the back of the bike with the pedals, it doesn't help IMHO. <S> Concentrating on the pedals is a mistake - you do most of the "work" with your legs and arms. <S> Its all about timing and practice (just like an ollie). <S> Look at some more video tutorials and keep practicing. <S> It might also help to lower the seat so you can bend your legs more - to get more thrust. <S> Remember to use exaggerated movements when trying - the number one mistake people make when trying a new technique is not moving/articulating their bodies "enough". <S> Edit: <S> Wikipedia agrees with me: <A> I used to do this in my younger days on a decidedly not mountain bike without pedal clips of any kind. <S> It took a lot of practice, and I don't remember being able to do it from a standstill, but with momentum, it was pretty easy to get both tires off the ground in a hop. <S> I recommend practicing in the winter <S> so when you fall, it's just snow and not pavement. <S> ;)
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Throwing your weight backwards is more effective than using your muscles to lift the bike, you also have to have your weight behind the back wheel to pop up the front. Tucking your legs brings the back wheel up even further, this is an explosive movement, you should bring them up as hard and fast as you can.
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How to deal with lock that keeps jamming? I have a kryptonite U lock and lately it's been sticking a lot while trying to turn the key. Usually I can eventually get the key turned. It was getting worse though and a few days ago I (unable to find any lube/wd-40 etc) cleaned it out with soap and water which seemed to help a great deal. I also started being very careful to make sure the little key-hole guard engaged. Last night when I was totally unable to get my bicycle unlocked and had to leave it there and walk home. The key would fit into the lock and turn half way and then stop. I'm going to go try and pick it up now, but I don't know the best way to try and make sure this doesn't keep happening. It's winter here and I wonder if that might have something to do with it. Edit: I ended up at the hardware store and the guy there (who had built his own bike in his garage, conveniently) recommended jig-a-loo. This made the lock move really well but I still couldn't get it open. This is when I noticed that my key was twisted (From trying to force the lock probably). I flattened the key back in a clamp and was able eventually to unlock it, but I can't seem to lock it again, so I ordered new keys. I'll have to wait till they come to see if that solves anything or it's actually a problem with the lock... Edit again: Some graphite and new keys seemed to do the trick! <Q> You can follow the advice in this thread to get your lock off, although my guess is that the lock was either damaged from washing it or water has frozen inside the lock. <S> Once you get it off, if the lock is damaged, Kryptonite has a lifetime warrantee on their locks. <S> I'd call them up and ask if they'll replace it. <A> The thing to use in locks is TriFlow (Teflon spray lube). <S> Though you can use a bit of WD40 first to clear out any sticky gunk. <S> Washing with soap and water was probably not the best approach. <A> I was told by a locksmith never to use graphite on locks that stay outdoors (like bike locks) because it mixes with air vapor and turns to mud inside the mechanism. <S> He recommended spraying in a good dose of ether-based cleaner (e.g. electrical contact cleaner) and then a bunch of silicone lube after. <S> Keys totally wear out. <S> I've had both a flat key and a tubular key break off in two separate U-locks. <S> It's a pain. <S> So as soon as the lock and key starts to get iffy, ether-clean the lock, lube it, and if it's still iffy, replace your key with a spare ASAP. <S> Also, as tempting as it is (and especially if you're irritated), NEVER force keys with pliers. <S> That was my downfall with the breakage both times. <S> I've learned to get good with an angle grinder metal cutoff wheel. <A> Graphite is best, but is preventative. <S> Once it starts to jam up, you're not going to have much luck getting the graphite in there. <S> LPS Greaseless lubricant works <S> well once you're at that point. <S> Avoid silicone lubes, they make a gooey sticky mess out of locks! <A> Go to an automotive supply store and ask for lock deicer. <S> It will melt any ice and lubricate the lock. <S> Spray it in the key opening and rotate the key back and forth,try this several times applying more torque each time. <A> Because you put water in there <S> it's probably frozen. <S> I would recommend lock de-icer because it's alchohol based. <S> It will also lubricated (for a short time) but more importantly it will help flush anything out of the lock and then it any leftover liquid will just evaporate. <S> Then I would put graphite in it or something teflon based. <S> NOT WD-40 that stuff sucks for locks. <S> It can be used to clean it although a locksmith will tell you not to do it. <S> If you go to a lock store or a local hardware store they might have a good suggestion but someone else mentioned sending it back on the lifetime warranty and that might be a good option for you as well. <A> If WD-40 or triflow or the like hasn't helped, and the lock is more than a year old, I'm going to guess the lock is fine, and your key is worn out. <S> Try a spare key. <A> my Kryptonite fagetaboutit wasn't opening. <S> I lubricated it and tried all the keys and each was turning and the U-part jiggled back and forth <S> but it didn't release. <S> I used a small plastic needleless syringe to squirt some bike bio-chain cleaner up the key opening and after a couple minutes of it sitting in there the lock released. <S> I think it cleaned out the gunk that was sticking the release mechanism. <S> I then wiped out the ends where the U seats into, and tapped out any loose liquid, then lubricated keyhole and the nib that springs in and out. <S> Works <S> well now <A> First. <S> Insert the key and work it a bit. <S> Redo if necessary. <S> If that doesn't work... Second. <S> Squirt some "Liquid Wrench" into the mechanism. <S> Try a couple of times. <S> If that doesn't work, you'll need to think of cutting the lock in some way. <S> Bottom line? <S> After the de-icer and liquid wrench, your lock may be fantastic. <S> If not, get a new lock. <A> Here is something that might help. <S> How To Fix A Jammed Kryptonite U Lock <A> I had the same issue with mine even after lubing it with Triflow. <S> Here's the form to send your lock back because it really shouldn't stop working in less than a year. <S> https://kryptonite.zendesk.com/anonymous_requests/new <A> As great as all of these solutions are in a pinch <S> you might not have deicer or lube. <S> head to a coffee shop and get a cup of hot water. <S> pour it on the lock and it should open (done this twice). <S> You'll need to dry it out and lubricate it later but it works like a charm and gets you going in a pinch.
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Squirt some lock "de-icer" in there. It might help to let it sit awhile between applications.
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Crank arms are not parallel to each other. What could have caused this? It is a cottered crank. Crank arms themselves don't seem to be bent. It is a non-cartridge style spindle. Any ideas as to why they are not lining up? <Q> Like you said, they are cottered, what makes them aligned is that pin through a hole, which at the same time tightens the crank arm around the axle. <S> If you google "cottered crank", you can see the spindle, which has a slot in each side. <S> My hypothesis would be: or the cottering bold got deformed, or the spindle slot itself got deformed, or both. <S> A bolder hypothesis would be twisting of the spindle due to deformation or cracking, but most probably the bearings would not spin freely (how are the cranks spinning, by the way?) <S> The side which appears on your photo looks OK from outside, the other side we cannot tell. <S> But for sure this is a VERY irregular situation, which demand a full disassembly of the system, and absolutely no use before that. <A> Looking at the photo I notice that the nut is missing,an indication that it has been worked on at some point. <S> With the right side pedal in the 9 o'clock position the nut side of the pin will face up verify that the leftarm pin has the nut on the bottom. <S> Several size pins were used and it is possible that you have two different sizes. <S> I have several cottered cranks and it seems that there is no standard as far as which direction the pin goes on which side <S> but they are always facing in opposite directions. <A> I did that once by accident when reassembling. <S> It's easy to fix - take the nut off, tap the pin out with a hammer, then insert it in the opposite direction from what it was before.
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One of the cotter pins is in backwards.
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What should I do at, and what should I know about, bike shows? The Toronto bike show is this weekend. I've never been to it, in previous years, or to any other. Apart from what my LBS told me briefly about the show last year, and the show's web site, I don't know what to expect. I think the show is for consumers, LBSs, and manufacturers: I'm a consumer (I commute by bike). Click to visit the Spring Show page <Q> Ok. <S> It's basically a trade show and exhibition. <S> According to your link it appears to be typical of trade shows/exhibitions. <S> 1. <S> What should I do? <S> Walk around. <S> Explore. <S> Watch events. <S> Shop for products of interest. <S> Ogle bikes and collect brochures. <S> 2. <S> What should I know about? <S> It's not a test, so you probably don't need to know anything in particular. <S> You might "know" about products that you're considering, but other than that... <S> Otherwise, you'll get to see new bikes, new bicycling technologies, and new accessories. <S> And, it appears that you'll get to watch some bmx and mtn bike events. <S> Last thing... Bring along a friend who is vacillating about taking up bicycling. <S> There's nothing like pretty gizmos to get someone started. <S> ;~) <S> And things like this are usually way more fun when you have a friend along. <A> along with their going range of prices on the web and at bike stores. <S> Compare the prices in the bike show to those in your list and if it looks like you found a bargain then go for it. <A> The Toronto Bike show is great, I have gone many times. <S> I actually will be there on Sunday as well. <S> Enjoy seeing the bikes, the BMX stunt shows, and all the groups showing their group ride routes. <S> But bring lots of cash. <S> Lots of deals for cash to be had. <S> Look at bike shops bargain bins for parts you might need cheap. <S> I usually go looking for close outs on clothing, since I have gotten amazing deals that way before.
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If you intend to go, bring a list of bicycle stuff related items (tires, wheels, pedals, saddles, etc.) The main reason people go to these bike shows is to look for bargains. And also, talk with manufacturers about things you find of interest.
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Cycling traffic signs and rules in Germany I'm over 30 and have just started cycling in real traffic, my first experience, as I have only ever ridden as a child in parks and such. I live in a university town in the state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany. Unfortunately, I have no clue about traffic signs as I neither drive nor hold a drivers license. Could someone recommend a place where I can learn about the traffic signs for cyclists, what they mean, the rules for cyclists, safe riding guidelines, etc? I have tried reading the legal rules, but my German is basic and those make my head hurt. Perhaps a site with photos of signs,simple language (either german or english)would be wonderful. I hope that all the cycling enthusiasts here can help me ride safely and correctly. <Q> You might consider contacting the ADFC <S> ( Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club ). <S> It is an association specifically for people who cycle as a means of transportation (rather than as a sport - though of course the two are not mutually exclusive). <S> They are part service organization, part environmental organization. <S> They have local groups ( Kreisverband / Ortsverband ) in almost every city, which usually have regular meetings. <S> Contact your local group (or just go to the local meeting); they will be very happy to give you hints, share local knowledge etc. <S> (even if you are not a member yourself). <S> For a list of local groups: <S> ADFC vor <S> Ort <S> They also have a lot of general information on their website. <S> See e.g. Sicher unterwegs . <S> Note: Most stuff is only available in German, but I hope basic German is enough to read it. <S> Local groups will be German as well, but many people will speak some English. <S> Disclaimer: <S> I am an ADFC member myself, and have been active for several years. <A> Google "german traffic signs" and you'll get a number of good references for road signs, including some nice charts. <S> For instance: http://www.gettingaroundgermany.info/zeichen.shtml . <S> Of course, these aren't bike-specific. <A> Here is a good place to start Road Traffic Rules <S> And here might be helpful also Learning to Drive in Europe <S> Not sure how it is in Germany, but in the United States. <S> Cars and Bikes must obey the same rules of the road and believe it or not share equal rights of the road. <S> It would make sense that the same is true in Germany, considering how it would not be practical to make a separate set of road signs for just bicycles, etc. <S> I would suggest you go to your local resources for information about learning how to drive an automobile and ask where bikes fit in. <A> I don't think you should "cycling in real traffic" with no experience at all and based only on what you read: there's more to it <S> , it's more complicated or takes more skill, than only understanding the traffic signs.
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Many local groups even have explicit meetings for people new to the area, or new to cycling in general, where they try to pass on useful knowledge. Perhaps you should get at least one lesson in person from an experienced rider: who can tell you what you want to know, and, correct anything you're doing wrong which you don't even know enough to ask about.
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Taking a bike on a sailing boat Marinas are often located a bit outside from town centers and shopping locations. So a bike might be a good thing to have aboard a sailing boat. Given the limited space on such a vessel I'm thinking about getting a folding bike. What should I look for in a bike and storage location, considering that the environment, even inside the cabin, will be quite salty and might cause the bike to rust faster than I'd like. Currently I'm mostly doing short trips so I can store it most of the time on land, but I plan on going on a larger trip around Northern Atlantic once I feel comfortable and properly equipped (and told my boss ;-) ) <Q> I've had a couple of non-folding mountain bikes on a sailboat for 5 years. <S> I opted for smaller frame non-folding bikes for performance, and there is a hatch they barely fit through. <S> Of course, rust is the major problem. <S> Banging around in the waves and in the process of storing them is a potential problem. <S> Because of this, there are no drink holders, speedometers, or other extra snags on the bikes. <S> Regular chain lube helps a lot. <S> The cables rusted enough to require replacement once. <S> There are a few non-stainless bolts and nuts on the bikes (a Specialized and a Diamondback). <S> They're easy to spot and replace or grease. <S> The stainless steel material holds up well. <S> Unpainted aluminum is corroding, but not to the point of failure. <S> The good thing is that although the bikes ride, shift, and brake very well, they are really ugly from rust and corrosion, so we don't have to lock them up when we use them -- nobody wants to steal them. <A> Rust is a valid concern, but there are certainly ways you can deal with it. <S> If you do have a steel-framed bike, investing in a product such as Frame Saver certainly makes a lot of sense. <S> The final concern would be assorted nuts and bolts. <S> I wouldn't think most of these would be a major problem, but if it looks like they are starting to rust over, you might want to consider replacing them with their titanium equivalent. <A> Maybe you can find some folding bike with belt-drive instead of chain-drive. <S> This would remove the most "rust forming" element of the bike. <S> Also, hydraulic brakes, be them disc or rim brakes, eliminate the hardening inside the brake cables, which sometimes is annoying. <S> And, if you are not willing to spend much, a bit of simple extra care, taken just a bit more often than a non-salty-environment bike, would allow you to use your bike without having to spend too much energy on it.
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And aluminum-framed bike will not rust like a steel one. I would be sure to keep your drivetrain well-lubricated, as well.
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Replace S-RAM S7 gear hub with something better I have an SRAM S7 gear on my bike, and I'm not content with it. I find it more or less impossible to get the adjustment right. Supposedly I just have to leave the shifter in position 7 and then assemble the outer part, but that doesn't always hit the spot and the result vary from working as it should periodically, to grinding, to not shifting when it is supposed to. Furthermore the hub is constructed just so that if the chain fall off it gets stuck on an elevation next to the cogwheel, from there it is impossible to get off without picking off the rear wheel. Point of case, I want something better. I'm looking for reliability and low maintenance. Preferably something that fit's on the same frame. I'd like at least a 5 speed gear, but don't care much for more than that, the current 7 seems a bit overkill. I'm willing to pay what reasonable quality costs, realizing that what I paid last time probably wasn't enough. I also wonder exactly how hard it will be to replace the parts, I'm a bit split between doing it myself or paying a shop. What should I get? Any other advice for my situation? <Q> The cheapest option is probably to buy a whole new wheel off the internet. <S> The Sturmey Archer 5 speed with drum brake is my first choice (www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/4/id/33) - <S> costs about 140 pounds for the hub from SJS in the UK. <S> The advantage of the Sturmey hub is that it's designed to work in various frame spacings so you just remove a couple of spacers and it'll work. <S> They're rumored to be quite robust <S> but I haven't tried the 5 speed, only the 3 and 8. <S> But the brand is good (was UK, now Taiwan, which seems to have lifted the manufacturing consistency a bit). <S> (do not get a Nexus hub, they were a bit of a learning experience for Shimano). <S> They're available with a disk brake as an option, so it comes down to what your bike frame will accept. <S> If it's got an internal brake now it'll almost certainly accept the drum brake, but if it'll take a disk the Alfine is a slightly nicer hub. <S> With the Alfine you'll probably have to spread it to 135mm, as (from memory) <S> there aren't any spare spacers you can remove. <S> The SA with drop right in. <S> But if your frame is steel you will almost certainly be able to just spread it the 5mm to take the slightly wider wheel. <S> If you're not comfortable doing that a bike shop or framebuilder will be able to "cold set" (ie, bend) <S> it for you. <S> With aluminium or composite frames that's not an option. <S> (I don't have enough points to embed the third link, sorry) <A> The S7 does not get very high marks on any review sites I've found. <S> It seems that it wasn't designed to be shifted under load,you must stop pedaling or at least reduce the load. <S> If you don't the internals get burrs and nicks and it doesn't work right. <S> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=2713 has a good selection of hubs <S> none are inexpensive. <S> The price does not include building your wheel. <S> You may not be able to use your old spokes if you change hubs. <S> If the bike is not that old you might try complaining to Sram customer service. <A> "Supposedly I just have to leave the shifter in position 7 and then assemble the outer part..." <S> According to SRAM, the way to adjust it is to shift from 5th gear downward into 4th (which is the middle, 1:1 ratio gear) and then adjust the cable end until the clickbox marks are aligned. <S> I have the similar P5 hub, and it shifts great for me when adjusted in the middle gear this way. <S> Don't know anything about the results of shifting while pedalling, as was brought up. <S> To me that is like shifting my car without using the clutch... <S> I suspect the result will not be good, and don't want to find out I'm correct.
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If you can use a disk brake on your bike the Shimano Alfine 8 is a good option, about $US400 with a cheap brake by the look of it. If it several years old another option is to have the internals repaired and not shifting while pedaling after that.
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Supervising a beginner in traffic Let's say you persuade some significant other to ride with you in the city. You both have good bikes, they are inexperienced, and you are (I am) used to commuting, including in traffic. How do you prepare the inexperienced rider to ride in traffic, and keep them safe while they learn and practice? How do you instruct them while riding? <Q> I ride behind: she sets the pace, concentrates on the road ahead. <S> Being behind I can watch, control the distance between us, speak advice, and manage (i.e. observe and give hand signals to) <S> any vehicles approaching us from behind. <S> Edit: I just found a quote on the front page of The VEHICULAR CYCLIST ( December 2011 ) <S> "I’ve taken three cycling courses since becoming a community officer with the Ottawa Police Service and am on schedule to become a cycling instructor this fall. <S> At the end of every course, I’m absolutely amazed at all the bad habits that I had taught myself throughout the years, ...". <S> http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/index.htm mentions "CAN-BIKE" courses. <S> One idea might be to take that kind of lesson: I'd at least see how they teach it. <A> I had some instruction a few days ago (to find out what bad habits I've accumulated), and after checking my bike and handling away from the road, and working through some scenarios on (almost) empty residential streets, the traffic section worked like this: <S> start on a quiet side-road, or in a safe spot at the side of the road discuss a manageably short section of the journey: what junctions and manoeuvres are involved, where you're going to stop instructor generally hung back to watch what I was doing finish the section as discussed, analyse it, and then discuss the next section <S> On longer straight sections, the instructor would ride alongside (traffic permitting) and discuss the next (or previous) step. <S> You can (we did) segue straight into the next leg of the journey if there is enough time and space to talk it over on the move. <S> Remember that leading (or instructing) is about building both parties confidence <S> : your SO will enjoy it more if they know what they're doing, and you'll enjoy it more if you're confident in them. <A> IMO (having run some Boy Scout cycling classes, among other things), before you go "play in traffic" with teens/adults you should have a "chalk talk" explaining the various basic rules/techniques for riding in traffic, and then, on a quiet road, demonstrate the techniques and have the "student" practice them a bit. <S> Granted, if by SO you mean a spouse or romantic interest such pedantry may not go over well, but it's the quickest and safest way to teach the techniques. <S> Of course, before you do this read up on how to ride in traffic yourself, from some reasonable authorities -- it's amazing how many adult cyclists have no idea how to properly ride in traffic, and how many bad habits they have. <A> How do you prepare the inexperienced rider to ride in traffic, and keep them safe while they learn and practice? <S> How do you instruct them while riding? <S> A rough idea is to take progressively small steps: <S> Start on quiet, slow traffic, residential streets for a nice ride. <S> Next, venture off of the the quiet streets for segments onto somewhat busier streets for a few blocks of the ride. <S> Now, go for some rides on roads where the traffic is moderate and the traffic speed is moderate. <S> Gist is... <S> Progressively build up at the pace/comfort level of the inexperienced cyclist and not your pace. <S> Your idea of riding in back is good to start out.
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It depends on how inexperienced the other rider is...and providing that you had a pre-ride discussion of cycling safety. Once your SO/partner/friend is up to speed, then try things out where you lead, and see if it is working. The important thing seems to be that you both know where you're going, what junctions or road layouts are involved, and how to approach each one.
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How do I keep my pants/trousers from getting caught in the gears? I have the unfortunate habit of always getting my jeans stuck in my gears and end up with a nice rip on the seams. I've used those velcro braces to keep the bottom of my pants leg close to my body but I guess I pedal too close to the gears as those get caught in the gears too. <Q> There are basically four solutions that do not involve extensive work on your bike: <S> Roll up the pant-leg on the gear-side high enough to stay away from the gears. <S> Wear tight fitting cycling pants that don't flap. <S> Stuff <S> the pant-leg on the gear side in your socks. <S> Since option 3 doesn't work for you that leaves you with options 1, 2 or 4. <S> However, when applying the braces or clips, (or stuffing your pant-leg in your socks) are you taking care to make sure all the excess pant-leg material is collected on the outside of your leg, away from the gears? <S> On the bicycle side: Chainring guards might help a bit, even better is a full chainguard <S> but these may be hard to find for your bike. <A> I have found that the top of and old sock over a neatly folded trouser leg works well. <S> Cut the top of the sock long enough to cover your pants with leg fully extended to the top of the sprocket. <S> The plus side is you don't ruin good socks stretching them over your pants. <A> Simple: Just take two rubber bands and stretch them around the bottom of your pants. <S> Done! :) <A> When I was a teenager, the "tight roll" was in style. <S> Nowadays I use it nearly every day to keep my pants out of the chain. <S> It works better than anything else I've ever tried, is totally free, and you don't have to carry anything around with you. <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants <S> And here's a video about how to do it: <A> Get a 8 - 12" piece of velcro, loop side, then adhere a 3" self sticking hook side on the end of the inside. <S> Tuck and wrap. <S> $1.50 cost. <S> I have had mine for 5 years, using it almost daily with no issues. <A> In addition to velcro and clips, you can use "slap bracelets." <S> Badge holder lanyards from conventions work well, too (but only the ones with alligator clips). <S> Wrap it once around, put the clip end through the closed end and pull it tight. <S> The clip will hold it tight. <S> (pics later) <A> This product should work, Leg Shield. <S> Covers your pant leg from your ankle to right below your knee. <S> http://www.bikelegstrap.com/ <A> Just the act of rolling up your pant leg one or two times usually covers the problem of it getting caught in the gears. <S> I've also resorted to tucking it into my socks. <S> It seems silly to buy clamps and devices when these two "free" options are available. <S> Nice that it's enough of an issue that it's being brought up online. <S> When I started mountain biking, some of the magazines and online sites basically accused a person of being a "dork" if they didn't dress in the appropriate gear. <S> I don't want to wear tight padded pants just to ride my bike. <S> I've been wearing a t-shirt and jeans for riding for about 4 years now. <S> I wear them in the summer too. <S> I figure my legs will be more protected should I fall, wearing canvas than they'd ever be in a goofy, padded pair of semi-shorts. <A> I found it easiest by taking some light weight sheet metal cut it to shape to my gear cover/guard and had a friend wield it over the cover <S> it helps a lot. <S> If u want it to match your bike paint it first. <S> Make sure u use heat resistant paint.
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Use braces as you have, or clips such as these to keep your flappy pants close enough to your legs.
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Front derailleur doesn't seem to be moving I'm trying to troubleshoot my 24 speed hybrid bike. As it was, the front shifter was having very little effect. I would change gears and not much would happen. When I had a chance to look at it, I noticed that the derailleur seemed to be barely moving when I shifted from 3rd to 2nd, and not at all from 2nd to 1st. I tried a few troubleshooting steps to tighten, loosen the cable, but nothing seemed to help. Now I have completely disconnected the shifter cable and the derailleur is sitting in between 3rd and 2nd gear. I'm wondering if that's normal resting place, and if it's reasonable to see very little movement when shifting like that. <Q> There are basically 4 possibilities: <S> The derailer is gummed up, has mud in it, or is otherwise being prevented from moving. <S> (You said the cable has been completely loosened, right?) <S> The limit screws are misadjusted <S> It's the wrong derailer for that gear setup. <S> Eg, a double derailer on a triple crank. <S> (It is curious that the decal says "8 speed" -- not something you'd expect as original equipment on a 27 speed bike.) <S> (It appears to be a down-pull style derailer, and it should center over the granny gear when the cable is fully released.) <A> I wonder if your problem lies in the shifter unit? <S> I had similar problems with my front derailer not moving much when the shifter was engaged. <S> After investigation I found that the mechanism in the shifter was worn. <S> When I replaced it things went back to normal. <S> As for the position I have always started with the derailer nearest the frame and worked from there. <S> Good luck. <A> With the cable disconnected, if you pull the derailer out toward the biggest gear, does it "spring" back to the middle or smallest chainring? <S> It actually should take a good amount of force to pull it out to the largest chainring. <S> There should be a very noticeable amount of spring tension trying to pull it back inwards.
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The derailer is bent. If it doesn't move and stays out at the biggest chainring, the internal spring might be broken, or very weak.
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Cassette HG 51, which chain? I need to replace my cassette (Shimano HG30 8speed 11-32) and chain (KMC Z7) that is currently on my bike (pinnacle Aura), however these parts are now discontiuned and I need to find the replacments. I have been recommended the HG51 cassette but don't know which chain to get. Can anyone help? <Q> Any 8-speed chain should work. <S> If you want to be absolutely sure, get one made by the same company that made the cassette. <S> I believe Shimano still makes several 8-speed chains. <A> I have just purchased Shimano HG51 (11 - 30 tooth) <S> casette and HG50 chain... <S> I haven't fitted them yet <S> but I have been advised they are compatible... see original post here. <S> Difference between Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette and Shimano HG50 8-Speed Cassette <A> Shimano HG-XX cassettes are definitely not discontinued; just the numbers have changed. <S> HG-30 became HG-40, and now HG-50. <S> For instance SRAM PG-850 and others. <S> The cheap KMC 6-8 speed chains are everywhere. <S> Maybe not exactly the "Z7", but some other number like "Z51".
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You can also replace with a non-Shimano cassette, which is compatible with the HUB. You can find an 8 speed HG50 cassette in the gearing ranges from 11-28T to 11-34T ("Mega Range").
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How to use Windstopper gloves most effectively? The Cold hands due to cold/wind question had a number of good recommendations, including using gloves with Windstopper branded material. My ski gloves are worn out so I purchased this silk weight Windstopper pair of gloves (WARMER - not WARMEST or WARM) last week to see if it could measure up to ski gloves. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VN86J6 They did not even come close. Commuting between 17-25 MPH on an electric bike in pedal assist mode (high cadence, low effort) at 50 degrees or so for 20 minutes, my hands are cold, and do feel the wind a little. My 10 year old thick ski gloves are much warmer. The upside of this pair of Windstopper gloves is that my fingers are fully mobile, as compared with my thick ski gloves which reduced finger dexterity to the point where it reduced reaction time for shifting and ringing the bell. This morning I tried using regular bike gloves worn under the Windstoppers, and that at least kept my palms warm, but fingers were still cold. What is the best way to use Windstopper-based gloves. Do they require liners to be effective?. If so, which brands/models are appropriate for which temperatures? <Q> They'll never provide as much insulation as ski gloves, on their own - they're not designed to. <S> They're intended to block the wind (so minimising the convection heat loss due to high airflow) but still allow you to breathe (which implies you still get the heat loss due to evaporation). <S> A wicking/insulating liner underneath will add some straight insulation too; if it isn't wicking or fairly open weave you'll lose breathability, but on the other hand an open-weave glove the wind would otherwise cut right through will actually be useful with these over the top. <S> For comparison, I sometimes wear a windproof shirt for running, usually in the winter: if I wear it over a singlet <S> and it sits against bare skin on my arms <S> , it doesn't add much (or any) warmth. <S> If I wear it over a baselayer, it adds lots, while still being lighter than an equivalent softshell and more breathable than a hardshell. <S> tl;dr - use a thin, breathable insulating liner. <S> Wool will probably work well. <S> Oh, and pay attention to the cuffs and your sleeves: any part of your arm not covered, even if it doesn't feel cold itself, will be losing heat that should be reaching your hands. <A> I commute (cycle) for 60 minutes each way. <S> I wear summer (thin and fingerless) cycling gloves in temperatures down to about 40F (5C). <S> At 50F (10C) I'm wearing a short-sleeved shirt, and short pants, as well. <S> I'm totally relying on the extra heat I generate (from exercise) to stay warm. <S> You must adjust your clothing to match, not only the outside temperature, but the amount of work you're doing (i.e. the amount of heat you're generating). <A> It seems as though you have a different tolerance for cold than the "average" rider. <S> This can be caused by a lot of different things. <S> For example, I frequently notice the difference between myself and others since most of the state is very warm (Phoenix, Tucson, etc, where 75f is coat weather), while I am acclimated in an area where 60f is a nice day. <S> As a result, I would suggest adjusting your gear choices a bit to the colder side. <S> For example, I have a pair of Gore Bike Wear <S> gloves <S> (Should be the same Gore Windstopper Nylon), but have fairly thick insulation in addition. <S> I wear these when the temperature gets below 30f, and above 10f, with no problems, but they may be perfect for you, even in your warmer weather. <S> If even warmer gloves don't suit your needs, you might want to look at non-glove hand warmers. <S> I have a pair of Bar Mitts which I use in conjunction with my other glove choices. <S> At about 10f, I go to my summer gloves inside the bar mitts; 0f to my mid-level gloves; <S> -10f back to the Bike Wear gloves. <S> Hope something in there helps.
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While a "warmer" glove might be fine for an "average rider", you might be freezing even with a "warmest" glove choice.
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How can I make my own chamois cream? I am about to ride a 300km brevet, and the plan is to let the faster bike alone at home, and go with a heavier one, for a lot of reasons, and one of them is the riding position on the fast one makes friction against the saddle a long-term problem. Besides, it is fixed gear and since I cannot stop pedalling, the problem is even bigger. I have seen people talk about the wonders of chamois creams and powders, and I am planning to use some. But since I tend to have a traditional approach (and to be very skeptical about fancy advertisements), perhaps using some traditional home-made solutions could become an interesting exercise in self-sufficiency. Some folks told me from experience that corn starch makes an excelent sweat-absorber, and also helps the skin to not suffer from friction. Some folks told me from experience that solid vaseline might be useful, too. How can I make my own chamois cream? <Q> I've never tried petrolatum (though many swear by it), and I'm a bit skeptical as to how it would fare compared to the more skin-cream-like concoctions. <S> Plus it would make more of a mess of the chamois and be harder to launder out. <S> I'll admit that the commercial concoctions are a bit expensive, but a little goes a long way, so it's not that big of an investment. <A> Not home-made, but pretty darn cheap (less than $5 last time <S> I bought it, and it's lasted over 2 years): <S> Lantiseptic. <S> http://www.rusa.org/newsletter/08-04-10.html <A> I'm not sure about homemade formulations but there are cheaper alternatives <S> to expensive, branded chamois creams. <S> Are there alternatives to expensive, branded chamois creams? <S> Yes indeed. <S> Some popular choices are Bag Balm, Queen Helene’s Cocoa Butter Creme , Udderly Smooth , and Noxzema Cream. <S> Those are all worth a shot. <S> It’s also worth noting that the Noxzema Original Cream contains neat ingredients – camphor, menthol, and eucalyptus – like Assos does. <S> The only product I would avoid is Vaseline. <S> I use Udderly Smooth . <S> It's cheap and a little goes a long way. <S> I've also used Noxema which has worked fine. <S> As for corn starch I've used it in cooking, and considering that, I'm not sure that I'd want it in my pants after sweat gets added to it. <S> Quoted liberally from: CoachLevi.com <S> the article: <S> Chamois Butter Exposed! <S> Common Myths, Folk Lore, and Reality <S> Here's an actual recipe on Instructables since you said you'd like to try making it yourself. <S> It's basically shea butter, aloe vera and olive oil; plus they offer some options. <S> The ingredients are in the ball park of commercial versions. <A> Back when shorts had real chamois, I used Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the chamois all the time with no problems. <S> If I were doing it today, I think I'd go with lanolin. <S> This brand works very well and is obviously very gentle. <A> I have used hemmroid cream on "hot spots"due to chaffing on my feet but not more sensitive areas. <S> Apparently it shrinks the membranes that cause blisters to form and thickens the skin <S> so it is less likely to open. <A> Not sure of your location, but check for "Udder Cream". <S> Designed for chapped cows or goats teats. <S> Great as a chamois cream. <S> Easily available in Australia and NZ. <S> Probably most countries.
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Most of your chamois creams/"butt butters", such as Paceline's "Chamois Butt`r", are fairly conventional combos of standard skin cream ingredients, with a heavy emphasis on lanolin. I just don’t think it mixes well with expensive leather saddles, and it doesn’t come out in the wash, so you’re kind of stuck with it after one use! There are a number of cheap substitutes that work just fine.
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Should mileage on a trainer be considered mileage on the bike? On my road bike, I have an old Cateye odometer and the sensor is in the front wheel. Therefore, when on my trainer, I can pedal away all day long and the odometer doesn't have any mileage added to it since the front wheel doesn't spin. When I sell my bike someday, I want to be able to say "It has XXXX miles on it." But all the miles I put on it while on the trainer I can't keep track of. Is that negligible or do trainer miles not really count as mileage on the bike? I recently purchased a Garmin setup where the sensor will be on the rear wheel by the chain stays, which would solve the problem but I just haven't put it on yet. <Q> Most bikes I've looked at (and purchased) via craigslist and other online listings don't usually state miles, just condition. <S> I think most bicycle owners don't have odometers. <S> The mileage I keep track of is more for my own knowledge and maintenance scheduling. <S> Keeping track of when I change the chain, or how long tires last type of thing. <S> That said, I won't get another sensor that only works on the front wheel, as I like the feedback (speed, time, mileage, cadence of my workout) when I'm on the trainer. <A> Mileage is mileage regardless of how it was incurred. <S> However I think most people are more concerned with condition than miles. <S> Five thousand miles of downhill with maintainence donsn't compare with 500 miles on a bike path while left in the rain and no maintainence. <A> You don't need to worry about the mileage for resale value. <S> Seriously. <S> Basically, you can't prove mileage; unlike a car, a bike doesn't have a built-in odometer. <S> For resale value, keep the bike in good condition (as others have said). <S> That is, no dents, few or no scratches, no rust, etc. <A> It is generally believed that trainer miles are actually harder on a bike than road miles because of the rigid frame position and because you drip a lot more sweat on the frame when using a trainer. <S> I have an old steel bike showing rust, and it has never been ridden except on my CompuTrainer. <S> I do use a sweat catcher, too. <S> Secondly, if you are just keeping track of your own mileage, a lot of people think trainer miles don't count, because you are not building riding skills - just condition. <S> But it's still interesting. <S> Electronic trainers can record your performance, including miles on a computer, so you don't need a cyclometer. <S> Eventually, though, components will wear out - and be replaced, which complicates the calculation further. <S> But if I were buying a used bike, I would want some idea of how much trainer usage it had, or I would want to take it to a dealer for a good inspection. <A> As others have pointed, there are some independent factors to consider when the bike is to be sold (or bought). <S> I think mileage is not the most important since, as mikes has written, you can ride a lot while taking care, or can almost never ride while the bike rots in a basement. <S> Now for condition, I think painting is a very valued item in a bike, not only for it's direct show factor, but also because, usually, bikes with lots of scratches possibly had other types of misuse. <S> Another important factor, although not so visible one, is the stress to which the parts have been submitted. <S> For a rigid mountainbike, for exemple, use in harsh trails or roads create stresses that might induce fatigue o frame, fork, handlebars and crank arms (mostly), overload bearings, and stress rims and spokes. <S> Again, by visual analysis one can have a rough measure of the "stress condition" of the bike. <S> In the other hand, road bikes usually get less dirt, but can get a lot of abuse, for exemple, by riding rough roads with superinflated tires. <S> At last, one almost invisible factor is "has the bike suffered a crash?". <S> A violent one could induce micro-cracks that would only show negative results much time later, even if there is no visible damage. <S> As to your question, I think the trainer miles souldn't count, since they're mileage on very controlled conditions, and could only affect drivetrain, being mostly useful for maintainence schedule, and for personal training purposes. <S> Hope it helps. <A> I think you'd say "The bike has XXX road miles and about YYY miles on a trainer." <S> You can guestimate how many hours you spent on the trainer and work backwards from there to miles. <S> Probably only accurate within a factor of 2 or so, <S> but that's all that's needed (if, indeed you need even that).
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An obviously well maintained bike will get a much better price on the used market than one that looks crappy. So, don't bother to track trainer miles for other than your own purposes. The only determination of bicycle mileage is whether or not the owner tracked it or not.
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How can I stop a belt brake (band brake) from squealing? One of our bikes is an electric bike. It's an older iZip HG 1000 , and although we got it through the American "manufacturer" ( Currie Technologies ), like most of the low-end ebikes it's made in China of heavy steel and uses cheap, cheap, cheap components. The rear brake is called a belt brake or band brake. When I was researching this a bit, I came across a discussion that said this type of brake is something like 20 cents cheaper than V-Brakes to manufacture in bulk, which is why it shows up on this type of bike. Here's a couple pics: just the brake and then one mounted on a bike (not our bike): Actually, now that I look closely at the pictures, I can see part of why it's cheap - no special frame fittings needed. The donut-shaped "drum" mounts to the hub, the other piece just fits over that drum and is clamped to the seat stay. My problem is that the thing squeals like a banshee. There's no pad adjustment as there would be for cantilevers, the only adjustment is how tight the belt starts. If I loosen it enough to stop the squealing, there's not enough pull to actually stop the bike. Is there any adjustment I could do to get rid of the squealing? <Q> That style of drum brake relies on friction between steel and leather. <S> If it is setup to stop reasonably well, they will always make some noise. <S> Quite often, when new, they do indeed howl like Baoine Sidhe. <S> This will get better with use. <S> From the photos, it appears your brakes are fairly new? <S> Assuming that they are actual photos of your bike... <S> Rubbing talcum powder into the leather strap will help quiet the brake, but it may also have an adverse effect on your braking performance. <S> Best to let it work out naturally, with time and use. <S> I hope that helps. <A> The type of band-brake you have is manufactured in China. <S> Hundreds of millions are manufactured and used effectively worldwide on numerous bicycles. <S> Your model of band-brake has 3 common causes for noise. <S> This can be caused by the wrong thickness of spacing washer being installed on the axle causing the outer edge of the drum rubbing on the inside of the band-housing. <S> This situation can be easily detected by wear marks on the inside of the band-housing when disassembled.2)The chain stay mounting or brake cable <S> mounting is out of alignment and causing the the same effect between the drum and and band-housing. <S> 3)The band itself is off centre when in the released position. <S> The two screws on the outer edge of the band-housing adjusts this. <S> You need to loosen the lock nuts on each adjusting-screw and adjust each screw inward or outward to provide a uniform gap between band and drum. <S> Happy biking. <A> I have no experience with this drum set up but with similar industrial applications centering the brake band is critical. <S> I would measure from the inner brake surface to the inside of the housing. <S> Do this at several points. <S> If it is off center one side makes contact and the otherside vibrates causeing the noise. <S> Cleaning of the drum surface is important,try alcohol. <S> If the brake material is leather Idont know what to clean it with. <S> If it an organic material sand lightly with medium sand paper. <A> If there are no V-brake stanchions it is possible to retrofit V-brakes if you use an adapter (you can search for these on Google). <S> The adapters are normally intended for BMX bikes but I have successfully used on on the rear for a bamboo bike I built.
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1)The spacing of brake-drum and belt-housing is too close. This sounds like your problem, as you indicate that when you loosen the brake adjustment, the noise stops.
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Broken pedal on an old french bike I broke the pedal of an old french bike (Peugeut Mixte 70's). The threading doesn't fit the one in modern pedals. Now I am wondering if I should insist in finding an old french pedal or if I should rethread the pedal support in order to be able to use modern pedals. Though, I am a bit scared about rethreading. Can it really be done safely? Is the space between threads the same? Has anyone here done this? <Q> To quote Sheldon : <S> Older French bicycles used a different, smaller diameter where the pedal screws into the crank, 14 mm x 1.25 mm. <S> The vast majority of French bicycles imported into the U.S. used standard 9/16" <S> x 20 tpi crank threading, but if you find an older bicycle that was bought in France, you may run into this problem. <S> The French-thread cranks can be tapped out to 9/16". <S> This is much easier (and more worth the trouble) with aluminum cranks. <S> French pedals will often be marked "G" (Gauche=left) and "D" (Droite=right). <A> Yes, a pedal can be reliably enlarged and retreaded, assuming there is enough metal surrounding the original threaded hole. <S> Most good shops have taps for 1/2" and 9/16" pedals, which are the 2 modern standards. <S> The older French standard is 14mm with a 1.25mm pitch. <S> It is possible to tap out 14mm to 9/16" without issue, if you have the tools and a steady hand. <S> Make sure you use the correct tap for the correct crank arm, as the left arm is reverse threaded. <S> I hope that is helpful. <A> It hasn't been difficult to get french pedals direcly from the French ebay! :-) <A> ..Here in France we have the same problem... <S> impossible to find french pedals with old standard M14/125... <S> IMPOSSIBLE.But it is possible to find in Spain, new french pedals M14/125 around 10 euros...certainly from China. <S> http://www.vicma.es/epages/Vicma.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Vicma/Products/W10 Try Ebay too. <S> Write " PEDALES 14X125" or "PEDAL M14/125" on Google
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Start the taps from the inside of the cranks,so any possible thread damage occurs where it doesn't matter.
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How to tell if a carbon frame is damaged or if the paint just has stress cracks I am looking at a carbon framed road bikethat has me concerned.On the topside of the bottom bracket,drive side there is a very small hairline crack in the paint.The seller states that it has been there for two years with no change.He was told by the dealer that it is just in the paint and a fairly common occurence.Anyone else experienced this?It is a three year old cervelo.The crack is 3/4 inch long and you can't feel it with a fingernail. <Q> Markus Storck, lead engineer and owner of German carbon frame powerhouse Storck Bicycles, told me at a conference about 3 months ago that the best ways to tell if a frame is cracked are movement and time. <S> Movement, because a crack will flex if it's through the paint into the carbon, and you put pressure on the center of the crack, and time, because a crack will grow with time if it's more than paint. <S> It's just not worth the risk, unless you can afford to be wrong about the frame's ride-ability. <S> I hope that helps. <A> out?If <S> the seller of the bike is being honest with you <S> it shouldn't be a problem <S> > <S> Last year I had a horriffic crash with my Trek Madone going over 20mph and the only damage my frame sustained was a small chip in the frame. <S> otherwise the frame is perfectly sound. <A> If you can't feel it with a fingernail, the crack <S> probably isn't in the carbon. <S> Another trick is to whack the tube with a quarter over and around the crack. <S> Do the same at a similar location that doesn't have a crack. <S> If there are any differences in sound, the frame has probably sustained damage. <S> For what it's worth, I bought a bike with very similar circumstances in December. <S> I used a piece of tape to mark the beginning and end of the crack, so I can watch for any expansion. <S> No movement so far. <A> The BB and head tube are some of the thickest carbon parts. <S> Listen to sound differences around it, but I think these areas would be some of the last places to crack. <S> Most cracks would occur either at a junction, thin spot, like middle of the down tube. <S> Also, if the crack you see has no marring, chipping or other damage on either side, its probably superficial. <A> Have a look at http://www.carbon-bike-check.com . <S> AFAIK there is no other way to find structural issues in carbon frames. <S> Everything else is just guesswork. <S> Even a competent dealer cannot look into the fibers. <S> So if the frame is checked on the surface only, i wouldn't buy it.
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Cracks caused by outside forces (impact) would leave other evidence on the paint, like scuffs, chips, etc. If you are even halfway concerned with a crack, don't buy the frame. Why don't you take the bike to a Cervelo dealer and have them check it
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What do I do wrong to get hip aches after biking? I ride about 17 miles each session. After the ride, the outside of my hips sore: only the parts near the outermost joints, most likely the tendon (although this is only a guess). My knees are fine, my ankles are fine, etc. The only thing that might not fit perfectly for me is the seat height. I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. Do you think this might create the soreness in the area of the outer hips? <Q> I have personally experienced that precise symptom, from mountain biking rides or from commuting rides. <S> Although I am not sure what causes it, I have observed that when it happens to me, I have ridden up steep inclines in "too high" gears while remaining seated or seated too far back on the saddle. <S> For these reasons I have changed my pedaling technique a bit, using a lot more gearshifts. <S> I can also recall that my problems appeared when I changed my saddle for a narrower one, so <S> later I found that to accommodate my sit bone, I tended to sit further back, so I could catch a wider part of the saddle. <S> No doubt I changed my saddle's fore/aft position by half an inch towards the front. <S> In some rare occasions I have gotten hip pain from riding in too tight, non stretching pants, like jeans, specially carrying objects in my pockets. <S> Objects like phone, keys or tools in the pockets make this worse. <S> Check <S> if any of these issues is affecting you and, if you find so, try changing one thing at a time, to see if something helps. <A> I might be inclined to try out a different saddle, look for a smoother route, or invest in wider tires (if your bike will accommodate them). <S> If heltonbiker is correct (above), your bursae may be absorbing more shocks than they can handle, causing the pain you're feeling. <S> If you're a woman riding on a man's saddle, consider looking for a women's saddle, as women's sit-bones are usually further apart than men's. <S> Lacking that, a good massage therapist can be a wonder-worker. <S> Good luck! <S> I hope you can get back to biking pain-free. <A> Hip pain is often a result of too much hill climbing in too high of a gear, whilst standing on the pedals. <S> Years ago, an old friend of mine (who is a fanatic) described this unfortunately common malaise amongst those who clock in 100+ miles minimum per week in the mountains. <S> I am now daily towing two children in a burley on protracted mountain climbs. <S> The total weight I'm pulling is about 100 lbs, and often it is steep. <S> And precisely what's currently giving me hip pain (esp with the heavy weight), since that's the only change in my riding habits. <S> This is common knowledge among mountain riders. <S> The mantra here is: sit and spin (low gear), don't stand like the Tour de France riders in the alps ... <S> seat height and length are also factors. <S> Obviously, bike fit is always paramount! <A> The only thing that might not fit perfectly for me is the seat height. <S> I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. <S> Do you think this might create the soreness in the area of the outer hips? <S> The saddle height might be your issue. <S> You say, that you'd rather raise the saddle height up an inch or two . <S> Apparently, you don't feel comfortable with your saddle height. <S> Why don't you change your saddle height by increments? <S> Another thing. <S> You never mentioned that you have done any sort of "bike fitting". <S> Poor bike fit can cause numerous pains... <S> shoulders, neck, hips, knees, etc... <S> But, a good bike fit can mean that you arrive home with no pain at all. <S> Just realized this: I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. <S> Perhaps you need a longer seatpost, but perhaps your frame is too small for you? <A> I have the same problem at the moment... <S> I am not too sure what causes it <S> but I do notice the pain happens when I power up hills whilst seated in a high gears. <S> I do a 3.5 mile commute everyday with a couple of short uphill bursts. <S> I might try and use a lower gear in a standing position. <S> I am also experimenting with different seats and seat post height, I think since I have lowered the seat height the pain is not as bad. <S> I have also experienced some knee pain <A> The web site Bike Dynamics has an online guide that could help you find the right fit. <S> To me it sounds like you're going hard. <S> If the thigh is swelling raising the seat could make it worse. <S> Lowering the seat would affect knees so you need to find exact spot. <S> You may also want to look at a roller for your Iliotibial Band, you could develop chronic ITBS if your bike fit remains poor. <A> I am not sure if you are clipping in, but a pedal adjustment might be of help here as well as that seat height. <S> A spacer of a millimeter or two at the crank might make the difference; it did for me.
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If your pain issues are not solved by adjusting your saddle height, you may be running into other bike fit issues or personal physical issues. Lately, when I hit the hill initially I stand and use my momentum in higher gears, but this is WRONG! I suspect the problem here is the pressure the clothing excepts over the hip joint while flexing up the leg. If you're able to consult the medical establishment, it may be worth trying for a referral to a physical therapist. See if the pain goes away, if so, you solved your problem.
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Townie gearing suddenly too easy So the rear wheel (26x2) on my Electra Townie 7d broke its axle, and I ended up replacing it with a new 26x1.5 wheel, that being what the LBS had in stock. The bike seems a bit faster, which is nice, BUT I find myself cruising in sixth gear (of seven) on flat terrain, and sissy gear is no longer usable at all, even on hills -- the gear doesn't seem to bite. Is there anything I can do about this, short of replacing the new wheel with another 26x2? <Q> I am not sure if I got it wrong, but to me it seems that what you describe as a problem is in fact a solution. <S> It is expected to get a SUBSTANTIALLY faster bike if you replace a tire, because of tire quality, rubber compound, thread pattern, pressure, etc.1.5 size, comparing to 2.0, is a specially much more efficient tire measure, which would for sure make the difference you mentioned. <S> If you don't want to spend, you can just enjoy less effort for the same speed. <S> Keep in mind <S> wider tires might be more comfortable due to cushion, and more resistant to impact-induced flat tires, because they have larger air volumes. <S> But except if you don't feel the bike right, consider to keep the narrow tire (perhaps exchange also the front one) and enjoy a new level of cruise speed at lower efforts. <A> When the axle broke did it damage the freewheel or <S> cassette?I believe the original cassette was a 14-34,14 teeth on the smallest gear-34teeth on the largest. <S> When they replaced your wheel did you get a new cassette that was different?There <S> is also the possibility that the bearings were bad, causing the axle failure and producing so much drag that now it feels like there is much less effort to pedal. <A> Here's how I optimized my Townie for max speed, yet max slow climbing ease. <S> (I'm an old man.) <S> In MTB style, I replaced the chainwheel/crank with a 22t/48t combo (the max spread that 4-bold 2x setups can take these days.) <S> Then with 2 cassettes combined (cogs & spacers from the 8sp CS-HG51 11-30t and the 9sp CS916A HG-400 12-36t) with a Wolf Tooth 42t for Shimano, I made a custom 7sp cassette to go with the original Townie 7sp shifter. <S> Result is 42,36,30,24,18,13,11 to make the basic 1x7 setup on the 48t chainwheel. <S> I removed the left shifter and front derailer for simplicity and low maintenance. <S> If I ever need the 22t/42t ultimate granny combo, as bailout gearing, I use a plastic tire wedge to ease the chain over. <S> Made sure that the 11t fit into a recess on the 13t cog, and that 8sp spacers were used, to assure smooth shifting up and down. <S> Gain Ratios on a Townie for this setup on Fat Frank balloon tires are as follows... <S> 8.07x, 6.83x, 4.93x, 3.70x, 2.96x, 2.47x, 2.11x, and for the granny: 1.06x with 170 cranks. <S> (mechanical advantages, petal cycle vs tire tread cycle.) <S> (I cruise in comfort with a wide upright seat, backrest and ape-hanger handlebars.)
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If you are getting "the result" (bicycle is moving) with less effort, and the old gearing seems inadequate, I would suggest you to update the gearing, for example, getting a bigger chainring (not TOO bigger), and keep going faster. You could relace the cassette with one tha has better road gearing such as 11-28 or 12-32.
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Day-trip bike for hefty 40-year-old woman? I have an Electra Townie 7d, and I'm quite fond of her (sorry, I do anthropomorphize my bike) as a commuter and farmer's-market hauler, but I'd like a more efficient bike for afternoon-trips (say, 50 miles round-trip), mostly on rails-to-trails with gravel or dirt surfaces. I have done 40 miles on the Townie, but it's harder than I think it needs to be. She's slow (I sometimes have trouble keeping up with my husband on his Trek FX), she absolutely loathes even slight uphill inclines, and because so much of my weight is thrown backward, the longer rides give me a numb butt. About me: Hefty. Figure me + gear + water = 250 lbs. Casual rider Forty. FORGET about anything but a relatively upright position. Not great at bike maintenance (I can fix a flat, change brake pads, and adjust my saddle... that's about it). What I think I'm looking for (feel free to disagree): Something in the hybrid/fitness/touring line Aluminum frame (I don't trust myself to maintain steel properly; also, my Townie is heavily scratched, so...) No fancy "suspension" forks, please. Women's geometry (mixte or step-through a plus, but not required) Straight handlebars, possibly with upright bar-ends Quality components and minimal maintenance a HUGE plus. Internal hub, maybe? Braze-ons for two bottle cages and a rear rack (I'm old; on day trips I carry first aid for the bike AND for me...) Rear fender a plus, but I can live with a mudguard. What bike models might work? How do I best eliminate models that won't? Let's say a maximum of USD$3000 for price, but cheaper would be fabulous. Please also rec good components that I should be looking at, considering my weight. <Q> Any standard non-racing bike can handle 250 pounds. <S> If you can handle those maintenance items you're better than the average cyclist. <S> There's no extra maintenance required for a steel vs aluminum frame -- it takes decades for rust to damage a steel frame even if left outside most of the time. <S> But aluminum may be 2-3 pounds lighter. <S> If you're having trouble keeping up with your hubby you probably want something with a few more gears. <S> I think basically you just want a good quality "hybrid". <S> The Cannondale Quick 3 , for instance, would meet most of your requirements, though there are no doubt a dozen others. <S> The only real problem with the Quick 3 is that it's got 700C wheels and, depending on your height, you might be better off with a 26" wheel. <S> Unfortunately, good women's bikes in smaller sizes are a rarity. <A> Look at the new Venture series from Scott . <S> Designed as the ultimate touring hybrid, they are fast, agile, low maintenance, and strong. <S> They are more aggressively positioned than your Electra, but not a forward as a hard tail mountain bike or a road bike would be. <S> The link is to the new Venture 10, which is pictured below. <S> The bike comes as pictured, with racks, fenders, and lights. <S> If you don't want racks and fenders, look at their SUB series , pictured below. <S> Same bike, no racks, fenders, or lights included. <S> There are several levels of components and prices, and they offer WSD versions of the SUB. <A> If you have $3000 to spend, how about a Rivendell Betty Foy. <S> She would be a more comfortable bike than any of those mountain bike wannabes. <S> Plus more practical and can take roads as well as dirt paths. <S> And aesthetically speaking, you won't look like you're heading to a dishwasher's job.
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An aluminum frame, being a softer metal, is somewhat more easily damaged (though the difference is probably negligible in normal conditions). An internal gear hub likely is a step in the wrong direction.
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Are fixed or floating SPD-SL cleats most suitable for a long commute? After much procrastination, I've finally jumped in and bought myself a road bike, under the cycle2work scheme we have here in the UK. I opted for a Boardman Road Race , as it seems to be the most affordable entry level road racer. Since my commute is 20 miles one way (aiming for twice a week to start with) I've been advised to invest in some SPD-SL pedals. I've never used a road bike, or SPD-SLs for that matter, however from what I can tell there are two types of cleats, floating (which give a little movement sideways) and fixed (no sideways movement). For such a commute, which type would be most suited? I'm thinking that floating probably for the extra range of movement which could be more comfortable for a longer commute. Is there anything in it? Or is it just down to user preference? p.s. Any reason these pedals/cleats would not be compatible with the above bike? Or are pedals universally OK <Q> Failure to get the setup right will mean pain, and can mean injury. <S> That is also true of floating cleats. <S> Most pedals come with cleats that have between 4.5 and 9 degrees of float built in. <S> I don't know of any pedal which has a 0 degree cleat, stock. <S> You would have to buy it separately. <S> For your purpose, there is no benefit to a fixed position cleat. <S> They are primarily used for track racing and for sprinting specialists in racing. <S> Given <S> that, floating cleats are most suitable for a commuter's bike. <A> Although you have opted for a 'proper' road bike, you may want to consider the mountain bike style SPDs. <S> There are disadvantages (the power from your foot is not spread over as large a pedal area) but the advantage is that you can buy shoes (or an additional pair of shoes) with recessed cleats (or a double sided pedal with SPDs one side and a platform the other) enabling you to use the commuting bike to nip into town shopping at lunchtime. <S> Wandering around shops in cleated racing shoes is no fun. <A> I prefer floating, mostly because they're easier to get in and out of. <S> The extra half second at every traffic light, plus the problem that I'm not really moving or in good control of the bike for that time, means I prefer the easy-in option. <S> If you are used to the low-float cleats then that may not be an issue, but I see very few cyclists in that category on my commute <S> (most are the "faff about while wobbling across the intersection" type). <S> Almost all pedals have the same thread (some BMX and kids bikes use a visibly smaller thread, I've seen a Shimano one with a huge thread). <S> Note that there's a left hand and a right hand thread. <S> Don't get that wrong <S> or you'll probably need new cranks. <S> So yes, the pedals shown will work. <S> The basic test is: if you can't turn the pedal into the crank with your fingers you've done it wrong. <S> Clean the threads, check the direction, then try again. <S> Only use a tool for the last 1/2 turn of tightening.
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Fixed position cleats, or 0 degree float cleats, require far greater precision about cleat setup on the shoe. Some of the MTB shoes come close to racing shoes in terms of stiffness, and there are certainly a range of good quality pedals on the market.
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Where are the Online Bike Databases? I'm starting to look for a new bike, and have grown accustomed to shopping online (or at least, pricing online) for just about everything I buy. One feature that makes online shopping especially appealing is the ability to search through an online database with constraints. For example, when shopping for a computer, I could start with all computers sold by an online retailer. Then I could filter out anything without 8GB of RAM. Then, from those, select just the machines with a certain processor, and so on. When I look around for bikes online, I cannot find any such database. For example, I'd like to be able to start with all models 2010-present, then select only those with internal gear hubs, then only those with 8 or more speeds, and so on. My question comes in two parts: Is there a database or online retailer like this? If not, why not? Note:I'm not opposed to supporting my LBS, but like to consider as many options as possible when making large purchases. In this case, I'd like to price out many different options and consider tradeoffs on price vs. functionality at home rather than at the shop, but would probably still buy there. <Q> Perhaps your best option is Gear Finder provided by Bicycling Magazine . <S> They have various bikes organized by type, price, and some sub-details. <S> As for why you don't see the same types of databases that you see for computer products, this is because the people who actually make these things (computer programmers) are much more likely to be interested in computers (as a product) than bicycles. <A> Filter on: Price Brand Frame Material <S> Gear Type Gear Model Suspension Wheel Size <S> Brake Type Brake Brand Color Gender Year <A> The Internet Bike Database is built on user-submitted data and lets you list bikes by type (mountain, road, BMX and 21 other types) or by brand, and you can search for specific models, but it won't let you filter by year and gears and so on. <S> BikePedia claims to be the "Bicycle Industry Encyclopedia" and lets you view by year and manufacturer, but again you cannot filter in the way you want. <A> A bit of a late reply, but I'm working on an app at the moment that can do this: http://bikedb.co.uk <S> It's a bit of a work in progress, but any feedback is appreciated! <A> everysingle.bike (my site which I've just launched) is a bicycle database and search engine. <S> It allows you to filter and compare bikes across manufacturer, year, component groupings, etc. <S> It's far far far from complete though.
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BicycleDB is a new bicycle database with advanced filtering options.
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Removing a stuck pedal I'm sure this question must have already been answered somewhere here, but it doesn't show up in any search results I make... I'm changing the pedals on a 40 year old bike. Pretty sure the pedals are original. The left one came off fine. Unfortunately, I got the thread directions mixed up and tightened the right one by mistake! Now the right pedal won't come off at all. When I apply force to the pedal wrench (in the correct, counter-clockwise direction), the crank just backs up, and the pedal doesn't budge. I have two questions: Short of making the trek to my LBS (which is a little out of the way) what are some ways I could try to get the pedal unstuck? Is there some way to immobilise the crank? I don't think I have the tools necessary to take the arm off the bike. Things already tried: Penetrating oil in the screw. Hammering the wrench. Things I don't have the equipment for: Heating the screw. Lengthening the wrench. EDIT: An additional note: It seems the reason the pedal wouldn't come out is that there's something wrong with the threads on the crank. I can't get the old or my new pedal to go in past the second turn. Going to have to take it to the LBS anyway... <Q> Your best bet is to use mechanical advantage to your benefit. <S> What you want to do is line the wrench up with the opposite crank, so that your hands are as close together as possible, now straddle the frame and force the two apart. <S> Here's an image from Park's description of how to remove a pedal that illustrates it well: <S> The worst position for the wrench is 180 degrees opposite, so that the crank and the pedal are still parallel, but opposite. <S> It will be almost impossible to remove a pedal in this orientation. <S> You are correct that the drive side pedal will have a normal thread, and needs to be turned counterclockwise for removal. <S> It generally takes a lot of force to remove pedals, because they tighten themselves as you ride due to precession. <S> If you find this method still isn't working, refer to Scott's answer about lengthening your tool to gain leverage. <A> Lengthening the wrench is your best bet. <S> You don't need anything fancy, find a bit of pipe at your local hardware shop that fits over the wrench. <S> Watch your fingers. <S> While trying to remove a tricky pedal, it gave suddenly and my knuckles hit the teeth of the chain ring. <S> It was a daft and bloody mistake. <A> Here's a quick, safe, and easy way to loosen and remove stubborn pedals: <S> In short, you'll need a wrench, and will have use your heel to push it. <S> The trick is in setting the right angle between the wrench and the rocker. <S> Just in case this video is no longer available, here are some key steps from it: <A> First off, I've tried several tricks to remember which way to turn the wrench on which side, and he only rule that I can consistently remember is use the rule that rotating "forward" as if it was a wheel of the bicycle tightens the pedals and rotating "backward" loosens them. <S> If your pedals are standard size you should be using a 15mm pedal wrench. <S> This wrench will normally have a longer handle for leverage. <S> In cases of a particularly stuck pedal I have used a rubber mallet to whack the handle of the wrench. <S> end over an open flame. <S> The aluminum will expand an you should be able to remove the pedal easily, but I have never had to go that far. <A> I made a very rough drawing which already helped me to release a singlespeed cog, using three wrenches: one for the locknut, one chainlink-bar to lock the cog itself, and another bulky one BETWEEN both, in which I applied the actual force. <S> I had to hold everything very firmly in place, and wrapping things with rubber might be helpful to avoid getting hurt and to help apply the right force in the right place, the right way. <S> In this rough drawing, the extra wrench (actually might be any metal bar) goes inserted in the chainring/crank-arm recesses, and is used to leverage the 15mm spanner. <S> Of course you would get everything in the best initial position as possible. <S> Don't forget to use WD-40 some time before. <S> Good luck, hope it helps! <A> I tried all of the above with no luck. <S> My flame thrower is at the shop, but I did have some sterno.... <S> two minutes later my pedal was free. <A> Put the pedal and crank into a pan and pour boiling water from a kettle over it. <S> Leave it resting in the water for a couple of minutes then a bit of elbow grease and off it will come. <S> So heat is your friend. <A> One of mine (removable) I had to heat over the hob (expanded the eye section of the arm). <S> I was repainting it anyway <S> and you needn't worry about warping the arm, as you'd need about 4-500 degrees <S> and you ain't getting that from a hob. <S> Besides, you only need to get it hot. <S> Wouldn't recommend this for Chrome, though. <S> You may get discolouring. <S> The other one I just used an old generic 14 in 1 bike spanner that I didn't mind damaging and hit it with a hammer, but low down, just off side of the spindle, not the handle end, because you'll lever it off and disfigure the spanner. <S> Taps to start with, make it heavier gradually...
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My trick is to orient the crank so that it is a close to parallel to the ground as the angle of the "nut" will allow, put the wrench on with the handle toward the back of the bike and press down. I've heard that if you have an aluminum crank, you can remove the crank arm and heat the pedal If you have a partner who can apply pressure to the other crank arm that might help. Other articles mentioned a blow torch to heat it up. I also found it useful to oil the areas first and let it sit for a while in both instances.
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Is it worth getting a suspension seat post as a cheap alternative to full suspension bike? I'm planning a ride from Birmingham to London on the Grand Union Canal (UK), which will be quite bumpy for most of the 145 mile distance. I have a front suspension bike and can't afford a new full suspension bike. Do suspension seat posts actually work? If so, I'll get one of them. Can anyone recommend a good model? <Q> The purpose of a suspension seatpost is purely comfort (though as mikes mentions, not everyone agrees that they achieve this goal), where as the purpose of a full suspension bike is first and foremost control. <S> Suspension on the wheels helps them stay on the ground over rough terrain, which a suspension seatpost will not do. <S> Any extra "comfort" is simply a side benefit. <S> You will lose some efficiency when the ground is smooth, but if you're already riding 145 on a bike with a front suspension, I suspect efficiency isn't your top concern to begin with. <A> It seems everyone I know has a love/hate relationship with them. <S> In other words liked it or didn't. <S> My main complaint was while trying to maintain a consistant cadence I could feel the seat height changing. <S> It seemed to interfere with my pedal stroke. <S> Mine was an inexpensive telescope type,with no adjustments. <S> My reccomendation would be stay away from the lowend models. <S> Also I would try it in similar conditions prior to your trip. <A> I've heard very good things about the cane creek thudbuster suspension seatposts. <S> I'm probably going to invest in one for some longer gravel road rides I'm planning for the summer. <S> They come in both the LT (long travel) and ST (short travel). <S> I think the ST model would be a good addition to a touring or cross bike used for a longer bumpy ride to take some of the harshness out of the bumps. <S> I'm basing my opinion mostly on the review at http://www.thecyclistsite.com/reviews/2009/11/27/cane-creek-thudbuster-st-seat-post-out-of-the-box.html <A> I've had to use a cheap spring-based suspension seatpost for a road bike, because it was the only 27.2mm post <S> I had in my pile. <S> The main problem with the lower end ones is that they have spring action only in one direction. <S> They have no damping other than a hard stop. <S> As you sit on the saddle the spring holds it up against the stop, and then it takes an extra hit from below to compress the spring. <S> So these seatposts spread out the initial up-thrust, but don't really minimise road buzz or small bumps. <S> If you sit down a bit heavily they can compress, but then they push you back up as well. <S> If you do go this way, tweak the adjuster which is up the main post (remove post from frame to get to it) and find a position which works for your body-weight. <S> Ideally, be hard enough to be firm but soft enough to compress under just a bit more than your normal riding body weight. <S> Plus they add some small additional weight to your bike which is a negative for any climbing. <S> Answer possibly better or worse than nothing, and no substitute for a real suspension bike.
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You might find a suspension seatpost to be comfortable, but a suspension seatpost is not a substitute for a full suspension bike. If you're looking to smooth out your ride, the #1 thing you can do is lower your tire pressure.
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Recommendations for inconspicuous helmet-mounted video camera I'm looking for recommendations for a good, water-proof (or at least weather-resistant) video camera that meets the needs of recording general commuting rides. Some desirable attributes are: Several hour battery life. Ease of video download and erasure. Ease of basic operation; the ability to turn on and off with gloved hands without looking, for example. Inconspicuous and light when mounted; something that could go pretty much unnoticed on the side of a helmet. I know there are quite a few new products in this category, but am having trouble coming by experiences of actual riders. <Q> The Contour HD is a nice camera but too expensive for me. <S> The DOGCAM Bullet is compact unit, 80mm long and 22mm diameter. <S> Waterproof so strapped to my helmet for kayaking, on the bike I tend to strap it to the bars. <S> It'll last a couple of hours on a battery charge, it's an internal battery which is charged via the mini USB port in the back of the camera. <S> Plugging in via the USB it just appears as a removable flash drive on the computer to copy the video's. <S> My only real gripe with it is the on/off switch <S> , there's very little tactile feedback to know if I've pressed the button. <S> It does have a small LED at the front to indicate when it's recording or the memory card is full but in daylight conditions it's not the easiest thing to spot. <S> When it's on my bars I really have to lean forward and squint to see the LED. <S> There is a fair review and example video on Cycleseven <A> Install any sort of helmet cam, then cover it with a small stuffed toy. <A> You are asking for a lot. <S> The smallest self contained cameras <S> I am aware of are the Epic Stealth and the Tachyon XC Micro . <S> There is a good review and comparison here . <S> These are both older models compared below. <S> The newer models on the websites linked have better specs, and better resolution. <S> Edit: <S> In response to (now deleted) comments below. <S> The Contour HD is a good camera, with fairly short (sub 2 hour) battery life. <S> It does have the pretty cool geotagging feature as well. <S> I would recommend the GoPro cameras , but it would be best if you bar mount those, and they aren't as small. <S> Not huge, but not tiny. <A> I'd wait for Liquid Image's Ego to be released this June. <S> $149, 1080p HD, small, waterproof, rechargeable, built-in wifi <S> so you can monitor and control from your iPhone or Android. <S> Buy a black one, and maybe you can embed it into a bicycle helmet without compromising the integrity too much. <S> This camera was announced at the Consumer Electronics Show this January, 2012. <A> Must it be helmet mounted? <S> The battery life is 2.5-3 hours, and they record to my 16GB MicroSD card, which can then be put right into my computer. <S> The two buttons are easy to find and press (even under the tape). <A> If being inconspicuous is the main thing, then you could try a smartphone in one of those plastic pouches that you find in outdoor shops. <S> You can carry it around your neck, or attach it to rucksack straps or similar, and most observers would assume that's just how you carry your phone. <S> There are various spy camera apps that can be set to take regular pictures or video on a loop. <S> Downloading/managing the files is easy, and battery life of modern phones is amazing. <S> As you mention commuting, I assume your main aim is to record evidence if something goes wrong, and for that the quality of a mobile phone cam should be enough. <S> Many of the other recommendations are action cams that are meant for creating impressive vids of how you handle a difficult mountain bike trail or something, but they may not be best for everyday traffic situations. <S> For example, I have a GoPro Hero which is great (can start video with one big button), but one limitation is that the video resolution and fps rate is so high that an SD card fills up in one or two hours ( <S> and it's bulky). <S> High fps is important for action shots, but for traffic offences you only need a much lower fps and therefore smaller file sizes. <S> In any case, it's worth experimenting with a smartphone app and carrying pouch as you probably carry a phone anyway. <A> I originally bought a pair of Lorex sunglasses for this purpose but found them to be very uncomfortable. <S> There is a built in light that can be seen out of the side vision so all of the components are already set up for a helmet. <S> Looks easy enough to strip the components out of them and embed them in and behind the lining around the corners of my helmet so that the little pin cam can be looking out through the wind visor above my forehead. <S> Probably not a solution <S> but it is an experience to share.
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It depends on your phone and the app how easy it is to start the video, but for most purposes it might be enough to start at the beginning of the commute and just record. I bought a DOGCAM Bullet HD Wide camera , on the basis of a decent camera at a good price. After I fried a my first pair from water getting in by the buttons and USB port, I put black electrical tape over the buttons and seam, and they are now effectively waterproof. A camera which has a several hour battery life, by definition needs size to carry the battery. I own a set of 720P Sunglasses shown here: Quality might not be as good as a dedicated camera, but should be ok for most purposes.
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geared to fixied options I've got a geared bike back tyre that has a dent in the rim. I'm considering a fixed gear conversion. A few points of issue: The bike has small vertical drop outs. The skewer width on the current back tyre width is for a 7-speed block. What are my options to deal with these issues? <Q> No EBB, vertical dropouts, and 130mm spacing in the rear. <S> You have a few options. <S> Here they are, from worst to best, and most likely cheapest to most expensive. <S> Ghost ring. <S> Basically, you get your chain length as close as you can then cram an old chainring in the chain inside the chainstay. <S> Scary solution, especially if you don't run (all of your) brakes. <S> Magic Gear. <S> Find a gear combination and chain length that gets the chain respectably tight. <S> May require halflinks, and can be a PITA. <S> If if works, it works great for a short time, then the drivetrain wears and the chain becomes loose and you have to do it all over again. <S> Not a great permanent solution. <S> White Industries ENO eccentric rear hub. <S> This is the way to go if you're willing to spend the cash. <S> Comes in a variety of spacing, free or fixed threading. <S> Works basically the same way an Eccentric Bottom Bracket does. <S> Dropout bolts are offset from the axle <S> so it allows you to adjust the distance from the bottom bracket to the rear axle. <S> White Industries makes bombproof components as well. <S> My recommendation is the ENO, hands down. <S> Don't bother with your current rear wheel. <S> It's more trouble than it's worth. <A> I think this conversion depends on where you live. <S> Currently, a lot of niche market factories are producing small parts specifically engineered for fixed gear conversions. <S> I can see the value of the ghost chainring, but I think it's dangerous, and the ring would be dancing up and down all the time while you accelerate/deccelerate via the pedals, and bob violently on fast downhill, when it is very hard to catch up with the pedals, and when it's most dangerous if you have any surprise. <S> The magic gear has its value, and would give a very very nice setup: easy wheel assembly and reassembly, use a regular skewer (no bulky 15mm spanner to bring along), BUT I think it would last only for a few miles. <S> Slack develops very fast, and you couldn't adjust it with the same chain (but honestly, I'm talking from theory, never used that either). <S> That third option would be a metal pulley held in place below the chainstay by some solid structure rigidly attached (welded, clamped) to the chainstay, with some kind of adjustment (a slot would be perfect).It would be necessary to attach it so solidly because, when deccelerating or skidding, the chain would compress this pulley against the chainstay with what might be a hard force. <S> Some frames might not be good candidates for doing this. <S> Anything you chose, keep in mind that: Fixies are DEFINITELY not toys. <S> The chance you get killed (or kill yourself) on a fixie in traffic is much greater than on those free-ride bikes in steep trails; <S> Fixies are so cheap that perhaps you assemble one as a second bike, and just "fix" your old bike back to what it was: <S> geared, freewheel. <S> Most likely a decent frame or even a whole bike wouldn't cost so much as you would spend with all these boutique components, which in the end are a bit like fancy workarounds. <A> You can purchase a new skewer or add a ton of washers. <S> There are eccentric bottom brackets you can use to provide chain tension in the absence of a horizontal dropouts. <S> The big hole <S> (notice it is not in the center of the cartridge) accepts the cranks. <S> Depending on the adjustable orientation of the hole you gain or loose a couple inches to the front/back up/down. <S> These small adjustments will tension the chain. <A> Due to the following reasons, I can't recommend converting this bike to a fixed gear: a) Vertical Dropouts (making chain tension adjustment difficult) <S> b) <S> Dented wheel (Probably don't want to rely on this <S> , it could fail more easily or cause the tire bead to pop out when skidding) c) <S> (You need a new wheel to accept a fixed cog and lock ring) <S> You'll spend way more money getting this bike converted to a fixed gear than it's worth. <S> Really, it's probably easiest to either a) purchase a new or used fixed gear bike or <S> Otherwise, the cheapest solution to having a working bike is probably to just buy a new geared wheel and put it on your bike and leave it as a geared setup.
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But I think the solutions that would give you more satisfaction are those that allow you to solidly compensate for chainslack, and most of them were already mentioned: Eccentric bottom bracket; Eccentric rear hub; Custom-made chain "tensioner". Existing wheel has a freewheel, and is not going to accept a fixed cog. b) buy another bike with semi-horizontal or track dropouts and get a new rear wheel with a flip flop hub, fixed cog, and lock-ring.
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Why do I have to keep changing positions? Despite riding seriously -- about 6,000 miles/yr -- for over 20 years, I apparently have some kind of obsessive-compulsion thing about always fooling with my bike fit. (95 changes -- NOT a typo! -- last year alone.) Seems to get worse every year. Before resigning myself to this being a "mental" thing, anyone know if it's possible there may be a physical reason for this? For instance, I use the "hands-off" test to determine the seat's fore/aft; I find it very hard to believe that some "mental condition" could result in me being able to pass the test with a 6 cm -- tip behind BB -- setback one day, then a few days later, I can't pass it unless the seat is 9 cm back!!! And, yes, I've had several bike fittings. (It's soon after those that I REALLY went nuts changing things due to the resulting loss in efficiency and/or pain.) The fitters seem to be confused, too! The range of their fits includes: seat height (BB-seat): 81-82 cm seat setback (BB-tip): 5.5-9 cm bar reach (tip-bar): 53-56 cm bar drop: 5-8 cm After changing positions, it feels much better for a few rides. Then, on one ride, the fit suddenly feels so screwed up, its as if I'm on someone else's bike! I then recheck things, discover something has to be changed by a centimeter or 3. Then it feels WAY better -- and is usually WAY faster -- until a few days later, when something is obviously wrong . . . and so on, and so on. So, any ideas as to why -- besides the mental thing? Anything to try? If it helps, I'm 6'2" with an inseam of about 36". My torso is pretty short, relative to my legs, and I think my thighs are on the short side relative to my lower legs. (Guess I could average out all the fittings, and see how that works.) I realize I may need a sports psychologist more than a bike fit expert, but I don't have the time or money for that! <Q> Making adjustments feels better and faster because it feels new for a few rides and then you get used to it. <S> Split the difference of all the measurements you listed and leave it that way for awhile. <S> Be honest with yourself when you feel the need to make an adjustment and realize that once you're within the range of fit that works for your body, no small change is going to make a night and day difference. <S> If you've been making that many changes for years, you've basically conditioned your mind to react the way that it does <S> and you'll never be happy because of it unless you just leave the fit of your bike alone, unless of course it truly needs to be adjusted. <S> The challenge for you will be determining the difference. <S> This is not all that uncommon of a condition. <S> I've seen people who do it with bike fit, bikes/components, diet, etc, always expecting the next change to be the one that makes the difference. <S> Just remember that most of it comes down to the rider, especially his/her fitness and skill level, and those things only come with time. <A> I agree with jm2 about the "mental state" thing. <S> I commute daily with more than one bicycle, and some days are just TERRIBLE, seems like I'm dying each pedal stroke. <S> Other days I fly like an eagle zigzagging in traffic <S> like I was 20 again (I'm 34 by now). <S> And I have a "golden rule" regarding bike fit: <S> once I find it during one typicl ride, I NEVER change it (except maybe saddle height), unless I need to replace some broken thing. <S> But my additional theory would be: try to act upon your body, not the bike. <S> For sure as we get old the body changes. <S> When younger, I liked the ultra-sporty condition, with handlebar almost five inches below seat, and it was ok. <S> Now I complain because the handlebar in one of the bikes is ONLY one inch ABOVE the seat, and I cannot rise it further! <S> What I realized, over the years, is that you need to get your body in shape. <S> I was a student until 24 years old, then I was always riding the bike with no worries, no job responsibilities, and no household chores. <S> Then your mind is always free and you never feel pain. <S> As you get old, joints get stiffer, recovering time increases, sometimes we sit in front of the computer for 10 hours a day straight <S> , traffic is not that calm anymore, etc., etc. <S> We end up needing more comfort, more "support" from the bike. <S> If you are having the trouble you described, I think you would benefit heavily from a physical enhancement program, be it with a physical therapist or with a personal trainer, focusing on improving flexibility and range of motion mostly, but also muscular tone and perhaps cardio fitness. <S> Pilates, Yoga, and such, are what I would try first. <S> I've done Pilates myself, only once a week, and heartily recommend it. <S> Sometimes it's useful to have a bolder attitude and "attack" the bike with your muscles (more postural tone, more power, more bloodflow) than to be "attacked" by it (letting the body be shaken and compressed by gravity, road surface, contact points, and such.) <S> From the Rule N.6 : <S> "Free your mind and the legs will follow". <S> (and, if you want the aggressive viewpoint too, take Rule N. 5 ...) <A> I agree with all others stating your body changes day to day, but little. <S> I also agree that your physical condition a the time makes you feel like wrong fit in the bike. <S> So I throw you a bit of questions: <S> Are you riding the same trails every time? <S> Maybe you are riding different trails and that contribute to the wrong fit sensation, as a position may be close to optimum for one type of trail but not for another. <S> Do your work or other routine change frequently? <S> Recent activities can affect the way your body feels. <S> Is not the same to ride after a week of office based, all time seated work, than after a week walking, carrying stuff back and forth. <S> your body will be tired and strained from different muscles, thus affecting your ability to reach and sustain certain riding positions. <S> Regards.
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Fit is a dynamic thing, but it's not so dynamic that it needs to be changed as often as you're changing it. And don't forget, riding a bike will always be an effort to the body. I'm no psychologist, but I think it's safe to say it's a mental thing.
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Competing against a 10 Speed Bike with 7 Speed bike? I have been cycling for almost about 9 years now. I believe, I have worked myself up to become quite a efficient cyclist. Still, I never felt the need to upgrade my gears to 10 speed, except in races. Now, here is my recent small story A fresher, who just bought a expensive bike with everything the modern technology offers, is suddenly bullying a 7 speed bike of mine in the race. Here I am cycling my butt off, with maintaining as much high cadence as I can. And there he comes, cycling with a very average cadence without even the breaking a sweat and pulling up way ahead of me. There has to be something like skills or techniques an fairly experienced rider can pull-off to at least become competitive with 10-speeders? <Q> I'm not necessarily sure that the number of gears here is the key issue - it's going to be the upper and lower range: what are the extremes of your gear ratios (or gear inches, if you'd prefer)? <S> Maybe your largest gear just isn't large enough. <S> Maybe you need a bigger front cog (or a smaller rear one) to allow you to get up to the same ratio that he can use. <S> cadence <S> * gearing = speed <S> The extra gears on his bike just means the transition between gears is smoother - less of a leap between neighbouring cogs. <A> From what you describe, these would be my hypotheses: <S> Your are not using gears right ( <S> unlikely, since you said you are an experienced and efficient biker). <S> It would be wrong to try to get speed hammering a very high-speed/low-cadence gear, but it is ALSO wrong trying to get your extra speed JUST by increasing your cadence. <S> Althoug you have not mentioned, I suppose both of you are using road bikes. <S> If you are using a Mountain Bike, well, then I think you're going to have a hard time catching up with him; <S> Your bike is not in good shape/setup to go high-speed. <S> Most important things besides gears have already been mentioned: good hub bearings, good chain lubing (it's weird, but it counts a lot!), "efficient" rims, and SPECIALLY good fast tires. <S> That would be skinny, smooth, high-pressure tires. <S> These can make a bike go from turtle to rabbit without any additional change; Your friend's bike is MUCH LIGHTER than yours. <S> Sometimes there might be a difference of 10 pounds (around 5kg) or even more between a not-so-modern-not-so-expensive bike and these new carbon-feather bikes. <S> And that IS a huge difference in terms of speed and specially acceleration. <S> It also allows the rider not to be so tired most the time, so when the sprint comes his legs are fresh to pedal hard; At last, this is always a possibility: <S> your friend's got genes, he might be those guys who's strong as a horse and/or never gets tired. <S> Check out if that's not the case... <S> Well, hope it helped! <A> Cycling speed is a function of cadence and gear ratio. <S> If someone is able to overtake you with a lower cadence then the only explanation is that are using a higher gear ratio. <S> The OPs estimation of his cadence and that of the person who overtook him look highly suspect to me. <S> I suspect that the faster rider had a very smooth peddling technique, which made it appear that were pedalling casually, but difference in cadence was probably much less <S> then it appeared. <S> A typical set of gear ratios for a 7 speed mountain bike was 42/32/22 chainset with 11-28 cassette; for a 10 speed (with triple chainset) <S> it is 42/32/24 and 11-36, which is exactly the same top gear ratio. <S> Bigger wheels increase gear ratio too, but the difference between 26" and 29" wheels is only about 12%. <S> Increasing the front chainring size from 42t to 48t would increase the top gear by 15%. <S> Assuming you have a 11t sprocket on the back, that'll give you a top gear higher than most 26" wheeled bikes and similar to the highest gearing found on most 29" wheeled bikes.
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Skills and techniques will not make you faster if you don't change your cadence or gear ratio. You should shift accordingly, perhaps until you reach the highest gear on your bike; You're using a different category of bicycle.
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What should I use to wash cycling clothes? I know the labels say to use "delicate" detergent. Well, how exactly do I know if its "delicate?" I used to use Woolite, but then read somewhere that I shouldn't. (Article didn't say why.) So, what's best for cleaning them? <Q> For cycling clothing made of synthetic materials (lycra, spandex, etc), a modern, high efficiency washing machine, or even a normal machine on a gentle cycle , is the way to go: <S> Gentle cycle and cold water. <S> Optional, pre-rinse with 1/2 cup white vinegar. <S> Hang to dry. <S> For expensive wool: <S> Prior to having a high efficiency machine, I hand-washed with a wool specific detergent . <S> My current machine has a wool/gentle cycle. <S> I use that now with an appropriate detergent. <S> Lay flat to dry. <S> Well, how exactly do I know if its "delicate?" <S> The detergents are usually labelled as such. <S> Generally, detergents labeled, "cold water " will be fine. <S> The bike shop guys will say that you need to use "special" detergents. <S> Nah. <S> Any cold water detergent will be fine. <S> FWIW <S> - I have 10+ year old jerseys that are perfectly fine. <S> The shorts and bibs don't last so long, and I figure it's the wear and tear. <A> I wash my workout gear (running, biking, gym, swimming) in cold water with a sports specific detergent. <S> I add a little white vinegar as well. <S> My favorite is Win Sport Detergent , but cannot find it locally anymore, so I have switched to Penguin Brands Penguin Sport Wash . <S> Then I hang it all to dry, no dryer. <S> This has worked well to get sweat odors and not damage the (expensive) gear. <S> We now have a front load wash machine which is more gentle on all clothes <S> and I think that helps for the longevity of my sports gear. <A> There are wash additives sold to hunters (and available at "outdoor" shops such as Gander Mountain) that do a good job of removing odors -- they're specially designed to get out the fatty acids that contribute to "sweat smell" (and which hunted animals can supposedly sense). <A> I'm too cheap to buy anything special <S> so i just machine wash cold and tumble dry low, but I've heard from a handful of people that Sport-Wash works great on performance/technical/synthetic fabrics. <S> It's supposed to preserve the technical features of synthetic fabrics, and it's also supposed to be better than the average detergent at getting lingering body odor out. <S> For some reason synthetics are really good at holding onto odors. <S> That's a bigger deal for your riding buddies than for yourself if you tend to stay in front of them ;) <A> Assos Active Wear, the the Swiss cycling clothing company, has a specific, active wear detergent cleanser which is required to use if you want to maintain the very respectable warranty on their clothing. <S> I've found it to do a great job with odor, and a good job with stains, if you use it as a pre-treatment on the stain itself.
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Cold water mild detergent or "athletic" clothing detergent.
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Calluses on palms/Pressure on hands - what to do? I've been cycling for several years, but recently I developed calluses on the pads of my palms. I'm referring to small raised lines, similar to those you would get from weightlifting. And, by the location I mean: the start of the raised part of the palm which controls the thumb, near the middle of the palm. These calluses appeared "overnight", and although I'm not sure why, I had spent some time caring for my bike (handling oils and lubricants) and then cycled quite a lot in grim, wet weather. They appeared as a result of that. Since these have developed, they are irritated by the pressure I put on my hands through cycling on a road bike (I usually cycle 20km each day) - and so, they are not getting any better and may be getting worse over time. I'm interested to know any strategies for relieving the pressure on this part of my hands. For example, will changing my bike setup change where I put pressure on my hands? How can I set that up? I use drop handlebars, so where should I grip the handlebars to minimise pressure on my hands? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. <Q> Use the hoods more than the bar tops. <A> If they did really appear over night you may want to consult your doctor as it may be a symptom of something more serious. <S> But if you mean it occurred over a week or two <S> you might try changing gloves. <S> If you got lubricant on your hands and in the gloves it may be an allergic reaction that happens every time you put them on. <S> There is also the possibility that you have developed an allergy to the glove itself. <A> I suspect that the main cause is riding in the rain. <S> Being wet increases the friction between glove and bar and between palm and glove. <S> You then unconsciously "take advantage" of the increased friction to hold your hand at an angle of rotation relative to the bar that would not be possible dry. <S> The skin of your palm gets "scrunched up" as it resists twisting on the bar. <A> As Toolbiker said, tighter glove sound like a good idea. <S> I also suggest using a thin glove without padding, put the padding on you bar instead, maybe by wrapping another layer of bar tape over it. <S> Also, the increased diameter of the bar with some more tape may give you a more relaxed grip and dissipate forces over a larger area of your hand. <S> You could also consider slightly lowering your saddle. <S> This should shift a bit of your weight from the bars to your saddle. <S> But, obviously don't overdo it because you'll end up breaking your knees instead if you go too low. <S> You can also get plenty of hand creams which you could apply after cycling to try and help the skin recover. <S> Again though, its also true that you could soften the skin too much... <S> the callouses probably have actually developed to thicken your skin and give your hand underneath more protection.
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Use a tighter glove that can't slide against your palm. A bicycle fitting or perhaps just a stem with some rise could help reduce pressure on hands.
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Cutting down cartridge bottom bracket left cup I have a Tange 68x103 mm bottom bracket (pictured) that I plan to use in an old steel frame (building a single-speed/fixed). It turns out that my non-drive-side bottom bracket shell threads were a bit destroyed. My LBS was able to chase/tap quite a bit of it, perhaps enough to fit Hollowtech-style BB cups that they likely tested with afterwards. However, the Tange BB has a very long left cup and it does not fully fit into my BB shell. I would like to somehow shorten it. Given that the BB cup has no lip on it, I plan to insert it in reverse on the non-drive-side, and then somehow cut it down to size, likely with a hacksaw. Is this a crazy idea? Does anyone have tips on ensuring the threads are preserved? I'll likely cut off 6 threads or 1/4". From my point of view, the function of the cup would be preserved if I can successfully do this. Am I wrong? Tange 68x103 BB http://www.benscycle.net/bmz_cache/a/a1a0837709b9deb5702d1c46199e4f77.image.700x524.jpg <Q> Another alternative would be to find a LBS with access to "Sutherland's Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics" and find a BB with the appropriate measurements. <S> Much easier, and quite possibly cheaper in the long run. <A> The RIGHT way to do this is to screw a STEEL bottom bracket lockring on to the BB cup BEFORE you reach for the hacksaw. <S> You can then clamp the lockring in a vise (not the BB cup) and spin the cup in the lockring until you have the exact number of threads you want to remove sticking out. <S> Make the cut by lining up the hacksaw flush against the lockring <S> so you get a straight cut and make the cut. <S> THen you simply unscrew the BB cup out of the lockring. <A> If you're committed to square taper cranks, I suggest purchasing a threadless repair bottom bracket. <S> there's a company, YST, that makes them and these days they're not too expensive and work pretty well. <S> You might need to retighten it occasionally, but I've had big guys use them on daily commuters with little or no issue. <S> Loctite on the threads will help. <S> But I'm curious why it won't thread deeply enough into the NDS side of the BB shell. <S> in every instance of bad BB threads i've encountered (and there have been plenty), the problem was the opposite - that there was nothing there to grip to at all, let alone block the cup! <S> EDIT: <S> btw, whatever you do, i would definitely avoid cutting the cup. <S> BB shells are made from massively hardened steel.
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The threads in the lockring will repair the threads on the BB cup as you unscrew the lockring off the cup. at my shop we have a bucket full of loose cups, you might be able to find one that works at your LBS (though they are mostly all the same size tbh).
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What is the Optimal Tightness for Learning to Ride with SPD Pedals? I recently switched the pedals on my road bike over to the SPD clipless system. The pedals I got have an adjustable spring. Tightening the spring increases the force required to twist one's foot out, while loosening it does the opposite. Initially, I set the tightness as low as it would go. I have ridden the bike every day in the last week without issue, and without even the prophesied falling (though I'm sure my time will come!). Today, while biking uphill against a strong headwind, my foot detached from the pedal, and I nearly lost control of the bike. It seems to me that this is the result of pedaling vigorously while also swaying a bit to keep my balance. This also seems like exactly the wrong time to have one's feet come loose. This event makes me think I should tighten up the spring. At the same time, I have had several near falls where I forget to unclip at a light, but was able to quickly unclip after stopping and catch myself. I have two questions: 1: Is it more dangerous to set the tension too high or too low? 2: What sorts of schedules might be optimal for gradually tightening up the tension while learning to use the clipless pedals? <Q> My preference is to start with the pedals wound right back <S> so your feet fall out if you even think about unclipping. <S> But from my experience of novices most people will fall off at least once due to being clipped in. <S> Regardless of how loose the pedals are. <S> After a week or so, or when the learner starts complaining that they're unclipping unexpectedly, I crank the tension up to normal levels. <S> I'm not a fan of any kind of gradual change. <S> I do err a little on the loose side while they work out what tension they prefer, but not in a smooth change fashion. <S> It's a step to "firmly fixed" in one hit. <S> I suspect it's more dangerous to have the tension too tight - <S> at some point anyone will be unable to unclip without damaging themselves - your ankles are not particularly good with twisting forces. <S> What I did find when I was learning was that there are time when I twist my feet in the pedals without realising it, so I was unclipping unexpectedly not because of pedalling force per se, but through half unclipping then pedalling. <S> If you're off the saddle and throwing the bike around a bit, you may well have been pulling sideways out of the pedal. <S> Don't do that :) <A> The risk of not being able to unclip while in traffic is just too great. <S> As you get to the point that you are popping out more times than you forget to unclip increase the tension in 1/8 turn increments until you are not unclipping unless you want to. <S> If at any point you feel that you are having trouble getting your foot unclipped back off the tension a little. <S> As everything wears unclipping will be smoother and more consistant. <A> Tighten the springs up a little if your feet are starting to pop out. <S> Before I moved from SPD's to TIME's <S> I had the SPD's cranked down as tight as they would go <S> and I would still blow out of them and <S> the scars on my kneecaps to prove it :/ <S> Eventually you'll find yourself twisting your heels outwards even when riding flat pedals. <S> So.. <S> -Tighten the springs several notches, -go in your backyard where there a soft area to fall over onto (and where nobody can see you), -clip in and out a few dozen times. <S> Repeat this for a few days. <S> If you find yourself tightening the springs down significantly again, run though the routine again. <S> I'm not guaranteeing that you won't fall over anyway, but in my experience this process has helped new clipless riders. <A> to begin with, have them really lose so it's easy to get out of, but then when you've learned the turn so you always do it without thinking. <S> then try to make it harder, it's very different from person to person this. <S> But I liked to have them really loose so you can get out of them. <S> Still I fell probably 20-30 times my first run with them. <S> An this is the falls were you know that it will happen 3 seconds before it happens. <S> so the basic rules are: practice a lot of clicking in and out before you take your first ride. <S> make them loose <S> so it's easy to click in and out. <S> make yourself comfortable with having the pedals on when you ride. <S> this last point is easy to try with just easy riding, so you stand up, brake, stop and make yourself comfortable with that before you have your first serious ride. <S> I didn't do all this, and it hurt, a lot. <A> cleats moving aside... <S> i also make sure i buy shoes that fit snugly and are tied and/or strapped down <S> I once went the lazy way and slipped into my shoes loose-foot . <S> When I tried to unclip, the foot slid one side in the shoe while the shoe moved too little to disengage from the pedal. <S> Classic fail.
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Setting the release higher than your comfort level is asking for trouble. The biggest thing you need to do as you tighten the pedals up is to practice clipping in and (especially) out to build up the muscle memory.
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Where can I find containers to dispense bulk chain lube So, I'm looking for drip style containers to keep in my messenger bag and my home shop to dispense bike chain lube. I want to just buy a 32oz container of lube for cheap on amazon and fill my own dispensing bottles since I need to clean a lot of chains on a lot of bikes. http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-32-Ounce/dp/B001XRW0DY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT11?ie=UTF8&coliid=IR73EP9U85298&colid=41YO2K2T7TMA However, I have maybe one small bottle of chain lube, which I'm not sure how to refill (it doesn't appear to be made to be dissassembled). Does anyone know where I can find dispensing bottles that can be securely closed for transport with all the other crap in my bag? I've checked a few science supply places online, but havn't found anything that would drip dispense and also have a screw cap. <Q> In my experience, the best kind of lube container is the Finish Line one, or similar. <S> It has a nozzle that can be snapped off easily for refilling, and a threaded cap which covers it all. <S> The "secret" is the threaded cap, which actually presses the removable nozzle against and into the bottle's neck. <S> Then, I guess there are three ways to use it: <S> Buy one, use it, and then refill it indefinitely with the lube of your choice <S> (that's what I do at home and in my carry-along toolbag. <S> Have not had any spilling so far, and I shake them a lot while riding); Find a product that has the same design (medicines, hair products, etc.), buy some, use them, and then reuse the containers. <S> I found the last image I post below looking for "eyedropper bottles" on google images; Find similar ones to buy off the shelf. <S> I don't have experience with that. <S> That's what I am talking about (this is the 100ml bottle, there are smaller ones): <S> The "eyedropper bottles", showing the inner removable nozzle on the second bottle from left to right (with threaded cap removed): <A> Ask around at bike shops and community bike shops for empty lube bottles. <S> They're sure to find one or two in the recycling bin. <A> If you need to pick up a large number of bottles quickly then I would look for Drip Bottles like these : <A> Just about any drug store sells travel bottles in small sizes for those who need to stay within TSA limits for carry-on. <S> There's a large assortment of sizes & cap designs including applicator caps suitable for chain oil. <S> Be careful about the conical snip-off caps pictured above unless you're using them on a bottle small enough for one shot use. <S> The little red caps at the tip don't hold on well and will leak in your pack. <A> I use 8 oz. flip-top bottles. <S> They're inexpensive, easy to find, and the top does double duty as a spot applicator. <S> They cost forty-seven cents a piece. <S> I bought four <S> so I could have extra bottles of lube in my car, on my bikes, and in my garage. <S> Their 2-3 business day shipping was very reasonable for where I live (Maryland). <S> http://www.specialtybottle.com/plastic-bottles/natural-hdpe/8oz-pn8f?gclid=CjwKEAjwqdi7BRCL6Zmjk5-rsTwSJABmrVab8rZTaCAZ5ZM3LnZkRbOmYwgpwC5z7lWGbZOT50E-aBoC2-Hw_wcB
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Otherwise I would just pick up a couple of bottles of lube from my local bike shop that had screw off lids and refill them when they are empty.
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How do I put grips on mountain bike handlebars? I just spent the last 10 minutes trying to put a new set of grips on to my mountain bike handlebars.. The old ones came off fairly agreeably and I've got the new ones 80-90% of the way on, however, at this point both my hands are stinging from the aggressive twisting and pushing - I have tried gloves, but I feel it's best left till my hands don't hurt anymore. Is there a tried and tested way of doing this? Or is there a knack to this that I am missing? <Q> Two solutions I've used: Spray the inside of the grip with hair spray. <S> Slide it on immediately, and then when the hair spray dries, it will glue the grip in place. <S> Use rubbing alcohol. <S> It does not do as good of a job at locking the grip in place, but it does evaporate quickly and doesn't leave any lubricant inside the grip. <A> Spit. <S> Im not kidding. <S> Saliva is a great lubricant that will dry with little residue, and depending on any sugars in your system, could be a little tacky. <S> I have done this for years. <A> Distribute thin zip-ties around the inside of the grip somewhat evenly so that they provide slippery "rails" on which the grip can slide on the bar. <S> Once the grip is in place, pull the zip-ties out (with pliers if necessary). <A> Best solution (probably available only at shops): use an air compressor with a narrow tip to inject air between the grip and the handlebar at an angle (like spiralling around). <S> This will create an air cushion and you can move the grip around (keep moving the air jet as you apply the air jet, since only in some positions the air cushion is formed). <S> Less professional method is what I use to do at home: <S> Wash bar and grip perfectly, with water and soap, to remove grease (even the grease from your hands). <S> If the grip is new, probably not needed. <S> Spill like a small spoon of alcohol inside the grip, and shake it inside a bit to make all the inner side of the grip wet with alcohol. <S> Quickly (before the alcohol evaporates), insert the grip, twisting and pulling. <S> In case it gets harder from the middle to the end of insertion, two strategies might help: Push from the bottom (lateral part) of the grip, so as to "fatten" it in a barrel shape. <S> This increases its inner diameter, allowing it to snap into position. <S> Pull from the inner border, like you would pull a sock around your foot, preferrably with both hands. <S> I am eager to know other alternatives, because this not always work. <S> Specifically, it might take a few days untill the alcohol eventually disapears. <S> Before that, some slight slipping might happen, but usually nothing serious. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Avenir 3D rubber grips on my cruiser bar: <S> Vodka :) <S> Just a splash inside the grips, wriggle them on, and let excess drain outside the end hole. <A> It not only keeps them from slipping too far on/off the handlebars, but keeps them from twisting in place. <S> Now, however, I use locking grips like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110736653646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1030wt_1163 <A> Since no one else mentioned this: I always use a glass/window cleaner (like Windex). <S> It works really well. <S> Easy to spray on the bar or in the grip <S> and it evaporates quickly but not as quickly as isopropyl alcohol. <S> Plus I think it has a surfactant which makes things slide a bit easier. <S> And you may be likely to have some around. <S> Usually works to take old ones off too, slip something like a screwdriver into the end to make a space, spray some in, then twist/wiggle it. <A> Two parts to this question - how to ease off an old grip that you may want to reuse ( <S> ie cutting it off is too destructive. <S> Followed by how to fit the new one. <S> Then withdraw the screwdriver and work the grip around. <S> You can feel it loosen <S> and then it just comes off. <S> To fit the new one, you simply push it on and position the angle before the soapy water dries. <S> Once the water evaporates the dishwash is left behind, providing somewhat of a tacky adhesive. <S> So yes this will leave it slidey for an hour or so while the water dries. <S> You can speed this by leaving the bike in the sunlight, black/dark grips should dry quickly. <S> Personally I'm a big fan of the grips with palm support, but you need them tilted to the right angle before the soap dries. <S> Then tighten the tiny restraining bolts that many new grips have now. <A> To put simple rubber compound grips I usually use two step procedure. <S> Use extreme degreaser on handlebar, the one that is used to degrease car brake rotors. <S> Then pour some water into grips and then put them on while water is still inside grips. <S> To take them off it's even simplier. <S> I use syringe with water. <S> Stick the needle through grip up until the surface of a handlebar and then inject some water. <S> The grip come off with no effort at all. <S> Using lock-on grips though makes process of putting grips on and off a lot easier ;) <A> Leave the water to cool down enough to put your hands in but so that the grips are still warm. <S> The water will cause the grips to expand so that they go on easy, they will shrink back down when they cool. <S> Then simply put the grips on using the usual twist and push method. <A> Hairspray, Hairspray, Hairspray. <S> Lubricant on the way on. <S> Adhesive once dry. <S> Ive done literally thousands of grips with hairspray in 25 years in bike shops and team maintenance. <S> Never has one come off when nor required or squirmed.
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The technique I use is to apply dish washing soap to the metal of the grip so that they are slick and put the grips in boiled water. I use a thin old electrician's flathead screwdriver to gently lever the edge off the grip up, then tilt the bike so that it leans to the side I'm working on, and then squirt a splash of water and dishwash liquid from a spray bottle into the raised edge. I always used hairspray with my grips, it's the best solution in my opinion.
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Can any bike crankset be exchanged for another? I have a Specialized HardRock from the '90s. It's seen better days, but I got it for cheap. I had a bike shop look it over, but for some reason the guys missed the rounded off teeth on the front gears. Whenever I ride it, the chain slips every few rotations. I'd like to get a new crankset, but i'm not quite sure what will work and what won't. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. <Q> The main intercompatibility issues with cranksets are the connection between the crank arms and the bottom bracket spindle. <S> Most bikes from that age (not to say all mountainbikes) use square taper bottom bracket, for which is very easy to find good quality cranksets. <S> These look like the leftmost spindle in the picture above (which also show newer types, that are less likely to be what you need): <S> You might also take a look at the page from where that image came, in the excelent website of Sheldon Brown: http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html <S> Other compatibility issues might be related to the length of the bottom bracket and the length for which the crankset was designed. <S> Using different-sized bottom brackets and cranksets might result in a misaligned chainline, an ill-working front derailer, or in extreme cases a chainring running too close to the frame. <S> This is so for tapered square, but I am not sure about the other types. <A> From the description of the problem --- rounded teeth on the chainring --- there is no need to be replacing the crankset. <S> Simply replacing the chainring in question should take care of the problem. <S> It's almost certainly a 5-bolt 110mm BCD chainring which should be available in any bike shop. <A> Square taper comes in subtypes: <S> ISO (mostly Campagnolo, SA, Stronglight, some Shimano) JIS (basically everyone else) other rare types <S> To some degree, these can be used interchangeably. <S> However, the resulting small misfit will push the chainline in or out. <S> Sheldon Brown covers this: http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html <S> You can <S> Google Velobase for all the possible Square Taper ISO cranks <S> http://velobase.com/ <S> site: <S> velobase.com "Square Taper (ISO) <S> " chainring <A> It looks like this bike likely came with a square taper bottom bracket and crankset. <S> I'd recommend taking the dust caps off your crank arms and verifying this first. <S> You may also need to remove the bolt holding the crank on the bike. <S> If it is indeed a square taper (you'll see a square box sized hole in the crank where the bolt was), then that's good news. <S> Something like this FSA Crankset would probaby be a decent replacment for not a lot of cash http://www.amazon.com/FSA-DynaDrive-Sqare-Crankset-22-32-44/dp/B001PT7TM2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_3
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It's really easy to find cranks that will fit a square taper bottom bracket.
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Thread locking fluid on fixed cog I just recently got a single speed with a flipflop hub and got the bike shop to switch it to the fixed cog. While riding around, the gear came loose on the back hub and almost flung me off so I had to bring it back to the shop to get them to tighten it. Does anyone use any thread locking fluid on the rear wheel gear to keep it from slipping on the hub or will tension from the lockring keep it secure enough? And if anyone has used thread locking fluid, did they have any problems getting a polymerization reaction to occur due to a low electrochemically in the hub/cog due it being made from aluminum or some other lightweight material? <Q> If you have a fixed gear type hub, not a dual freewheel flip flop hub, and a lockring which is properly installed, there is no benefit to using threadlock on a fixie hub. <S> Thread lock works just fine on aluminum, although it tends to cause stripped fasteners because it requires more torque than most aluminum fasteners can handle. <A> A better solution if you're using a suicide hub configuration (a freewheel hub with a fixed cog) is to use an old-school bottom bracket lockring to hold the cog in place. <S> It's not ideal, as the lockring threads aren't reversed, but it's better than nothing. <S> Even with this setup, I'd still recommend re-tightening frequently. <A> My fixie was bought second hand, with this configuration: <S> Regular threaded hub for freewheel (only one thread); "Glued" sprocket; "Glued" lockring, probably taken from a bottom bracket, a headset, or something similar. <S> That is, the suicide hub already mentioned... <S> I tend not to skid, but I use the "deccelerating" function of the fixie a lot, and it never came out. <S> I guess who mounted the kit (probably some acquaintance of the guy who sold me the bike) <S> made it right, with lots of torque on either the sprocket and the lockring, and enough amount of good quality locking glue over clean surfaces (by the way, steel cog, steel lockring, aluminum hub). <S> I had a broken spoke on the drive-side <S> (cannot insert another, cog gets in the way), and I think I will not risk disassembling and reassembling this glued configuration, because I think it is too risky. <S> I am only riding it yet because, I think, if it is not broken, don't fix it (pun intended). <S> So, answering you question: yes, I use such a hub, ride daily with a bit of "emotion", and it is working great, never came loose. <S> But I plan to switch to a better quality hub, assembled the right way, very very soon. <S> Piece of mind. <S> (by the way, since I have a relatively firm double-wall semi-aero rim, I keep riding even with one less spoke. <S> Actually, it is wrapped around other spokes. <S> Thank God centrifugal force exists!)
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With a fixie lockring, though, there aren't enough threads (surface area) to really benefit from a threadlocker.
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Should I get wider tyres/tires for my tour if I'm not going to go off-road? I'm going to do a ten-day long tour down the west coast of New Zealand. I'll have some luggage in rear panniers, but no tent (staying with friends and in backpackers accommodation). There'll be a fair bit of uphill and downhill on some days. But I don't forsee that I'll hit gravel - I'll likely stay on sealed roads. Of course, it may rain (as if that isn't obvious). My bike is a steel framed road bike, and I currently ride with 23mm tyres. Because it's an older bike I can fit wider tyres on, which some recommend for touring, but I wonder if it's worth it? In the context of my tour, if I went to 28mm tyres what would the advantages/disadvantages be? <Q> I have seen fully-loaded tourists ride successfully with lightweight racing bikes (of years ago) on what were then called 7/8" tires (which is 22.2mm). <S> I've also seen them lay their bikes down in the parking lot at lunch and have the tires explode. <S> (Don't ask me what mechanism was involved, but it happened at least 3 times in a week among a group of maybe 20 on the lightweight bikes, among a larger group of about 200.) <S> As a commuter/tourist I favor wider tires (I currently ride 35s), for the slightly smoother ride, better handling on rough pavement, less frequent airing up, and better weight-carrying ability. <S> But the main question in your case is whether the tires can simply carry the weight, at full pressure, without compressing too much. <S> Load up your bike (with dummy weights if necessary), sit on it (or have a friend of the same weight do so), and see how the tires look. <A> The main concern with thinner tires and carrying a load is getting pinch flats when you hit a bump. <S> I ran 27 mm tires (Schwalbe Marathon Pluses, nice tires) touring around Europe this summer with about 30lbs of stuff, for about 2200km. <S> Generally they were good, but I had to keep the tire pressure high (100 PSI or 7 bar) or else the tire would compress on bumps or rocks <S> and I'd get a pinch flat. <A> Go 25 or better <S> 28mm: the rolling resistance will be lower for the same pressure as your 23s - or you can reduce pressure a bit on the 25 or 28s for comfort and the same rolling resistance as the 23s - and still with the bigger tyre not get pinch punctures. <S> There's lots on the web about going for bigger tyres - a lot of racers are now going for 25s!
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Either get wider tires and/or bring a high-pressure pump is the solution, and using a standing floor pump (most bike shops will let you use theirs for free) whenever you have a chance after getting a flat.
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Which spokes to get, Wheelsmith or DT Swiss Spokes? I'm building two sets of 26" wheels, one pair of 32h triple cross with Bullseye hubs with machined sidewalls for rim brakes, and another pair of 24h double cross with Alex A-Class hubs with Sun rims for disc brakes. I'm now looking for which spokes to buy. I'm comparing double butted spokes between Wheelsmith and DT Swiss. The Wheelsmiths are slightly cheaper per spoke, but I'll end up paying the same because of the purchase quantities, so price isn't really a factor. I'm looking specifically to compare the Wheelsmith Black DB14s 14/15/14 ga (2.0x1.7x2.0mm) vs DT Swiss Black Competitions (2.0x1.8x2.0mm), but if there are other opinions between the straight spokes (2.0mm) - Wheelsmith SS14 vs DT Swiss Champion, that would be also of interest. Some issues I've heard before: The DT Swiss butt transitions are nicer The 1.8mm DT Swiss diameter makes the wheel feel more rigid (not always a good thing) The 1.7mm Wheelsmith allow more elasticity and give a nicer ride DT Swiss is more readily available (not a large concern of mine) Wheelsmith spokes work better with Wheelsmith nipples At this point, I'm still on the fence between the two. Wisdom, experience, or differences would tip the scales. <Q> I don't know if this helps, but Peter White is a well-regarded framebuilder and wheelbuilder who has strong opinions on the Wheelsmith vs DT Swiss issue: <S> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.asp <S> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/DTspokes.htm <S> The gist of his argument boils down to two (current) main differences: 1) DT Spokes have a 6.3mm elbow length vs Wheelsmith 6.1mm (assumed) which can accommodate larger flanges, but are undesirable. <S> In addition, there WERE a large number of issues with DT Spokes relating to their specification change in 2001 from 6.1mm to 6.8mm, causing problems with slop in the hub and sharper elbow angles making the lacing more difficult. <S> These have since been remedied and the elbows are now down to 6.3mm, but not back to the original spec and <S> WS hasn't changed their specs around (perhaps this is circumstantial evidence, but it makes WS seem a more steady design than DT). <A> While I believe that Peter White has some good points, DT spokes are widely available in a variety of sizes at (semi)reasonable prices. <S> And for most people they're perfectly serviceable. <S> The difference would be in the lifetime of the wheel before spoke failure becomes a problem, forcing you to relace. <S> For typical road use you might be talking the difference between 20K for DT vs 30K miles for Wheelsmith, making it more of a theoretical than practical problem for the majority of cyclists. <S> Of course, for certain off-road and other stressful uses the difference may be more significant. <A> I favour DT - I had a pair of Mavic OpenPros with DT stainless spokes and DuraAce hubs for 15 years and never broke a single spoke on either the front or rear, and that's with some significant mileage too. <A> Right now I'm having two new wheels built after 10K miles of riding on my current rims, hubs and spokes. <S> I bought a super high quality hub set for the re-build. <S> Now I had to chose which rims and spokes. <S> I'm going with wheelsmith <S> DB-14's because that's what I have on my old wheels <S> and I like the looks of them. <S> For the 10K miles, I never broke one spoke and the wheel stayed well in true. <S> Never had the wheels re-trued which makes you wonder why I'm having to new wheels build? <S> Well, it's mainly for the hubs. <S> My old wheel-set will go on another bike as an upgrade because they are still fine wheels. <S> I read Peter White's article. <S> I'm not going to give any opinion here <S> but I will say I'm glad to have read it <S> and I'm very glad that my bike-shop is able to get WS DB-14's for my new wheel set. <S> I like thin shiny spokes. <S> For my setup, it will look great. <S> The new rims will be the Mavic Open Pro black. <S> The spoke nipples will be brass and they will look great against the black rims. <S> The Hubs are from ROYCE of UK, United Kingdom. <S> You should check them out.
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2) DT Spokes have a sharper, 'triangular' transition into the head, which has led to more cases of the DT Spokes popping heads off than Wheelsmith, which have rounded transitions. Out of my experience with WS, I feel confident that the DB14's will serve me well for at least another 10K and well beyond.
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Bike Balancing, How is it done? When riding hands free, I am noticing my bike is more oriented towards a particular direction (In my case: left) . I tried to check of what my problems might be: I check the handles, if they were of equal lengths on both side I also check, if my saddle was not straight. I can't find out what is causing them. Please tell me, What are things, steps and techniques needed to balance a bike. More Info : The problem started after my last servicing. I do use multiple bikes, and the orientation is not the same for both of them. So, my personal balance and weight does not affect this case. <Q> Check also that your headset is correctly installed - my bike pulled to one side until I checked the bottom race and saw that it wasn't flush with the head tube. <A> I would suspect your own body's balance first. <S> It's surprising if you stand on one of those <S> Wii balance pads how unstable your balance really is. <S> Also, this could mean one of two things: 1) When riding straight, the handlebars are oriented left. <S> 2) It takes constant right-leaning to ride straight <S> For 1 I would check your handlebar alignment, loosen the stem (two bolts on top for a threadless design, one bolt on top under a cover for threaded) and look with one eye down from above, your stem should align perfectly with your wheel. <S> For 2, I would check your tires to see that they're worn down evenly, and loosen and retighten the skewers to make sure the axle is bottomed out in the stays <S> and so the wheel is centered between the fork and frame tubes. <S> Then I would check to make sure my brakes were not contacting the rims at all, front and rear. <S> I would expect a given bicycle to lean slightly right due to the added driveline weight. <A>
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Check your wheels have been centred when fitted into the frame; when tightening wheel nuts or quick release you will find the wheel can be moved from side-to-side before the final tension is achieved.
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What are the pros and cons of Double Butted vs Straight Spokes when building a wheel? Straight spokes will have the same diameter through the whole length, double butted spoked are thinner in the middle than at the ends. Here's my current understanding of the benefits of each: Double Butted Spokes Lighter than Straight Spokes More elasticity in the wheel (less rigid / will flex some before breaking) Spokes will bow out less at the crossings Easier to bend/lace When overtightened or stressed too hard, the spoke is more likely to snap than the rim eyelets or the hub's flange Straight Spokes Stronger than butted spokes Less elasticity in the wheel (more rigid / may break before flexing) More available at bike shops Cheaper What are other reasons to use one over the other, or more pros/cons that may influence one's decision to use one over the other when hand building wheels? ('Straight spokes are easier to machine lace' may be true, for example, but doesn't help me decide which to order) <Q> In his book 'The bicycle wheel' Jobst Brandt, says that double butted spokes will be more resistant to fatigue failure when built into a wheel. <S> This is because spokes break because of the cyclic stress they suffer as the wheel rotates. <S> As the spoke rotates thru the bottom of the wheel it experiences a reduction in tension. <S> Butted spokes are more elastic so this reduction in tension is spread over more spokes, each experiencing a smaller reduction in tension. <S> Wheels are an order of magnitude stiffer than the tyres they roll on, so any stiffness differences will not be noticeable. <S> At this point the rim is no longer restrained and the wheel will be more likely to collapse. <A> You have to be a lot more careful about windup in butted spokes. <S> You have to detension each <S> spoke more carefully when building by turning a bit extra and turning back. <S> Otherwise they might re adjust themselves. <S> I think 14g can carry a heavier load than DB. <A> Plain-gauge (PG) spokes will break at the shoulder (where they leave the hub) due to metal fatigue at some point during the life of the wheel. <S> Varying the tension in a PG <S> spoke tends to vary the amount of bend at the shoulder; varying the tension in a double-butted (DB) spoke tends to vary the length of the thinner section, which is much better from a fatigue perspective. <S> There is no feel difference between 2.0mm-straight spokes, 2.0/1.8 DB-spokes and 2.0/1.5 DB-spokes at the same tension with the same rim. <S> Source: I built them and rode them. <S> Load-bearing capacity is a function of the spoke tension and the spoke count. <S> If you take a look at the spoke specs of at least DT Swiss and Sapim spokes you will find that the DB spokes will take the same tension as (and often more than) their PG counterparts. <S> The other option to consider is bladed spokes like the Sapim CX-Ray, which are basically DB spokes with the thinner section pressed flat. <S> This has some nontrivial aerodynamic benefit and is also a bit easier to build with because you can hold the spoke straight: no need to worry about spoke wind-up.
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A wheel built with butted spokes will be able to carry a heavier load before any of the spokes become slack. There is no load-carrying difference between DB spokes and PG spokes either.
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How do I maximize my upper body workout from riding? I often hear people say “your bike is a whole-body gym”. I know my upper body workout will never be close to the workout my legs get, but so long as I’m a bike commuter, I figure I ought to get as much as I can out of it. I have a Trek 8.3DS, flat handlebars, no bullhorns, no upright grips. How do I adjust my riding style/choice of bike/choice of equipment/types of rides to maximize whatever upper body exercise biking can give me? <Q> The "pure" answer to the question as asked is probably as others have said, climb as much as possible. <S> But perhaps a better answer is to admit that cycling is awesome for aerobic fitness and leg strength but not as great on the upper body. <S> Obviously, cross-training is an option, but even if you are 100% committed to your bike, you can probably get significant results from two common calisthenics <S> pre and/or post ride: Push-ups and Pull-ups. <S> The key is that you want to develop your chest/shoulders/ <S> triceps (pushing) and your back/biceps (pulling), and doing multi-joint exercises is likely more efficient/helpful than isolation exercises. <S> If you can't do pull-ups and don't have access to a lat pulldown machine you can help yourself by using your legs to give yourself a gentle assist. <S> Try this: Do a set of 20-25 pushups, then 8-12 pull-ups, either just before or just after you put on your shorts/jersey. <S> Do a second set 5 minutes later after you've made up your water bottles, etc., <S> put on your shoes, whatever. <S> Pump up your tires and get your bike "ready," then do a third set. <S> You'll probably be amazed at how quickly your strength will improve just with three sets of good form concentrated upper body calisthenics pre-ride. <S> Again, if you have dumbbells or a weight bench you could do bench presses/military presses, or laterals, and you could do rows to help with the "pull," but the goal isn't really do to a full on weightlifting session, just some quick calisthenics with one effective push and one effective pull exercise and at least two, preferably three sets as you prep for your ride. <A> I think there are two important ways to use your upper body riding a bicycle: <S> Ride very steep hills, where you need to pull up the handlebar and swing your upper body to counteract the torque on the pedals (specially if you ride a bike without extra-low gears); Riding over technical terrain, like XC mountain bike and other stuff. <S> While commuting, you can do these (or at least a bit of these) if you choose some unusual route if you live in a hilly area. <S> If that is not the case, I am afraid riding itself is not enough to provide significant upper-body exercise (except postural "exercise", which might indeed induce health issues if too prolongued). <S> Hope this helps <A> There is a way to train your upper body while riding, but it's not the way most of people think of. <S> Have you ever looked at pro BMXers arms? <S> I rode BMX myself and can confirm that lots of bunnyhops, manuals and jumps are serious upper back, and whole arms workout. <S> Just think of it, in a bunnyhop you pull with your lower and upper back, together with the arms, then you push using again your back and arms. <S> But I don't know how this could go under common term of riding :-) <A> From years of experience, I have found that riding with your upper body (arms/ chest / back) flexed, you will get a significantly better upper body work out than with your upper body relaxed, where you don't get any work out. <S> A quick upper body work out after your done riding helps as well. <A> Something mentioned before but without explaination: <S> The position you sit while riding can affect upper body strength. <S> When changing from a long ride on a cruiser to a long ride on a road bike, after the road bike trek I feel my arms working harder from holding more of my body weight up. <S> The geometry of your frame, seat height and handlebar position can greatly affect how much work your upper body does while cycling. <S> If I had a mountain bike, I wouldn't however try to adjust a mountain bike to road bike dropdowns specifically for this though! <A> Your bike is not a whole body gym. <S> You could do sprints standing in extreme gears, accelerating as fast as possible. <S> Sprinters tend to have developed upper bodies. <S> They don't develop them on the bike, but they use them enough. <A> Biking is not an upper body work out. <S> As a matter of fact: on longer treks I have found my arms getting rather numb. <S> Riding a stationary bicycle that just pedals like your standard bicycle is not an upper body work out. <S> Sorry ... <S> Unless you are not using your hands on the handle bars and swinging your arms wildly or flapping them, you are not exercising your upper body while riding a standard bicycle. <S> While exercising: make sure you do get enough liquids when riding and don't overdo it, because it can be a long way home. <A> On a stationary bike you can press down in your thighs with both hands while you pedal to get a pretty good upper body workout. <S> On a moving bike you might be able to use one hand to steer and one hand to press on a thigh.
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Riding a stationary bicycle that works both arms and legs simultaneously is an upper body workout. If you have or can scrounge some dumbbells you can do a bit more. Go for a ride, and try to get in as much climbing as possible. If your riding on rough terrain try to jump and wheelie your front tire over objects here and there; if your riding on the street, try to jump curbs and bunny hop on curbs here and there, just be careful with traffic...try to find a trail/ route that you can master.
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How do I get started riding on rollers? I want to train on rollers, and I figure once I get rolling it will be pretty easy, but how do I get my wheels turning fast enough to keep me upright before I fall over? <Q> Other than that <S> , you just have to keep trying. <A> Get the floating rollers and you will be steady in about a minute. <S> Floating rollers look like this: The rollers are attached to the inner frame which allows for rotation of the wheels and the inner frame is attached to an outer frame which allows forwards and backwards motion by the bicycle as a whole. <S> This should help cyclists accelerate quicker than on traditional rollers, where there is a chance that you hop over the rollers and head forwards into the tv. <A> Started with mine in a door frame (since my house has no hallways) with shoulders aligned with the door jamb. <S> Of course I didn't want it there or have to keep moving it. <S> So not perfect. <S> The lasting solution... I have a spot in my basement where I attached a metal handle securely on the ceiling. <S> Works much better to get started and just leave the roller there. <S> I'm lucky to have a permanent spot for the rollers; so this method may not work for everyone. <S> Basically I just hang onto the handle to get on the bike and get spinning. <S> Once spinning it's pretty much just normal cycling balance. <S> I got my rollers several years ago and pretty sure that I took a tumble or two before I got the hang of it. <S> It's also much easier to learn if you're comfortable riding with no hands. <S> (not that I do that on the rollers ;-)) <A> As some of the other comments have mentioned I got started by putting the rollers in a doorway and using that to get up on the rollers. <S> Once I got the basic feel of it <S> I moved the rollers to a spot where there was a full length mirror in front of me and put chairs on the side. <S> The full length mirror was really helpful because I could look forward and see where my tires were on the rollers. <S> I could see when I was drifting over to the side. <S> Another helpful tip is to put lots of pillows around for when you fall. <S> It isn't a question of if, it is a question of when. :) <A> Door frame is useful but in addition keep looking up, straight ahead rather than down at a TV or even worse your feet and keep your cadence high.
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Until you get the hang of it, set up in a hallway, where you can brace yourself on the walls around you until you get up to speed and while you learn your balance. The main thing is to be able to support yourself externally so that you can get clipped into the pedals, onto the saddle and build up a little speed so that you can maintain balance.
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What should I use, VeloPlugs, Rim Tape, or Rubber Rim Strips in new wheels? I'm building two new sets of mountain bike 26" wheels, and I'm wondering what to go with. Both are double walled rims, so in addition to the standard rim tape and strips, I can use a product like VeloPlugs. Here's my current understanding: VeloPlugs VeloPlugs http://www.radfahren.de/typo3temp/pics/2378aa8792.jpg Most expensive ($7 / wheel) Reusable Lightest (~5g) Double Walled Rims only Have to measure spoke holes in double wall (8mm vs 8.5-9.3mm) May lose them when changing tubes, so carry extras on rides Rim Strips Mid-range price ($4 / wheel) Reusable Rim Tape Cheapest (~$3 / wheel) Won't slide around like Rim Strips Weight (~20g) Glue may prevent nipples from loosening in single walled rims Won't slide around on rim Most common / available What are other points or guiding factors in selecting which to use? I'm not concerned with price and availability, I'll wait/pay for the best option. I'm leaning toward VeloPlugs for dual walled rims and rim tape for single walled. Furthermore, if anyone has used VeloPlugs before, how do you find the diameter of the spoke holes when the rim manufacturers doesn't publish it? Just wait until the rims are in hand and measure with a caliper? <Q> There are advantages to all of them, but tape has always been my preference. <S> I've used velo plugs, but in my wheels the incidence of loss was too high. <S> They lasted me less than a year, before I lost all the extras, and went back to tape. <S> I don't use rubber rim strips because the rubber degrades, and they move around too easily. <S> I prefer Schwalbe high pressure rim tape , because it gives a good seal, stays put, and sticks better than cloth tape like Velox, but still removes clean and easy when the time comes. <S> I hope that helps. <A> When I bought the carbon 50mm wheels, I put on the yellow velo plugs. <S> I had more plugs than necessary <S> and I made sure the plugs fit snugly into each hole. <S> Some plugs didn't. <S> But I had enough plugs to choose from. <S> Its been over 2 years <S> and I have not experienced any loss of plugs. <S> During those 2 years I had numerous punctures, front and rear and a change of tires as well. <A> I just recieved veloplugs today for the wheels i am building <S> and i must say that i like the design and the fit. <S> I measured the holes inside the rim and they were exactly 8mm <S> so i went with the same 8mm model plugs. <S> If you dont know yours <S> you will definetley have to remove your tire and tube and peel back the tape to get a good measurement. <S> I weighed the tape used on my old rims and it weighed 36 grams from both. <S> I forget the exact math but it was almost a full 30 grams i would be saving on rotational wheel weight and the fit actually gives me confidence to go with a lighter tube due to less concern of pinching on install with rim tape. <A> You left out reinforced plastic/rubber type strips. <S> Kore Chastity Belt strips are my favorite and rated for 140psi. <S> Very durable. <S> FSA, Origin8, etc also make this type, available in many common sizes. <S> Price ranges from $2.50 - $4 each. <S> I do like cloth tape, but the adhesive can dry out (even before purchase). <S> Velox is $5 a piece at my shop. <S> Rubber rim strips are junk in my opinion, definitely a last choice. <S> They are commonly the cheapest and sell for $1 each at my shop. <S> I've not heard anything bad about Veloplugs. <A> Plastic rim tapes actually get damaged after a few thousands km under high pressure and I hate rim cloth that get soaked with water under rain. <S> Easy to install, light weight, and above all very safe. <S> Also makes tire mounting much easier. <S> Just remember to put a few spares in your saddle bag when you ride, in case you loose one when fixing a flat on the side of the road <A> Rim strips are very fine, but their edges might become hard with aging, and I have had some flats due to cuts in the innertubes caused by these edges. <S> Have never used plugs (actually didn't know they existed), so cannot tell about them. <A> I use the veloplugs, but for touring and commuting I put a strip of vinyl electrical tape over the top of them <S> so I don't lose plugs when changing tires. <S> On a low pressure tire I don't have a big preference. <A> Or you can use cheap plastic adhesive tape, usually two to five layers. <S> It's cheaper and lighter than any of the above, but it doesn't last especially long. <S> It helps if you de-burr and round off the edges of the spoke holes. <S> After a while you will start getting punctures where the tape has given way and the tube gets cut by the spoke holes. <S> I was surprised to find that even two layers worked in MTB tyres at ~60psi. <S> When every gram counts this is what I've done. <S> It also works as a desperate measure when you fix a flat and the existing fix is damaged. <S> Often with tapered edges (you really only need it to cover the spoke holes), but they're still heaver than rim tape and costs more. <S> In real life (rather than for one race) I use rim tape. <S> It's cheap, easy to get, lasts ages and it works. <A> Gorilla tape, cutting one half inch strip patch for each spoke? <S> And then a rim strip or old inner tube made into a rim strip over that? <A> 3M duct tape, 3 layers at least (cut to fit). <S> Alternative: 3M super 88 electrical tape. <S> Again layers of it. <S> These are just poor mans solution in an isolated place but with a hardware store around. <S> If you have good LBS stores nearby, get the best recommended. <A> Velox. <S> If you can't get it, go to medical supply store and get COTTON bandage tape; you'll have to cot your own valve stem hole. <S> Veloplugs are lighter weight. <S> Good for race setup.
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Rim tape can actually slip, slowly, due to heat and/or mechanical stresses (rolling of the wheel, twisted tube), but would be my choice, since they're not elastic (accept high pressures well) and can't damage the tubes. Rim tape also comes in plastic variants that are lighter, last longer and cost more than rubber ones. I have been using veloplugs for a year now and I am very happy with this system. Tire manufacturers recommend to change the rim tape each time you change a tire.
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Keeping a leather saddle in good condition Is shoe polish a good or at least adequate solution for keeping a leather saddle in good condition? And/or better options? <Q> I guess shoe polish (the creamy one, not fancier new ones with sylicone and lots of synthetic polymers) at least won't do any harm, but maybe there are better choices. <S> Manufacturers advise the use of specific products (Brooks Proofide, for example) both for treating the surface against wear and tear induced by friction and the elements, but also for treating the deep layers of the saddle thickness, improving its mechanical characteristics, specially when new and yet uncomfortable, but also after some use and possibly abuse (mainly due to weather). <S> Leather tanning actually takes the subcutanous connective layer of cattle skin, which is rich in collagen, and treats it so that it can last longer. <S> As such (at least it seems so to me) they have a "natural" affinity for natural substances, specially the lipo-soluble molecules found, for example, in Proofide itself: tallow, beeswax, cod oil, etc. <S> I like to look at my Brooks as if it was a somewhat living friend <S> : we have a friendship, I treat it nicely and it responds by treating me nice. <S> Even caressing it and silently talking to it is fine (at least is makes ME feel fine). <S> So with the Proofide I like to think I am giving something it likes: those fatty, variated, long-chain, apolar, gracefully degrading organic molecules, and not the inorganic, synthetic, industrialized, unlively plastified synthetic products one might choose as an alternative. <S> (and by the way, the thinnest layer once in a while is more than enough: that tiny can of Proofide will last for many years!) <A> Shoe Polish is ok <S> but it is going to smell <S> and plus the seat will not soak it properly and leave traces on your pants. <S> I use a glove oil... <S> You can find one in any sports shop ... <S> just look for oil which is used to soften the Baseball gloves. <S> I have used it on my Brooks leather saddle and have had no issues in last 2 years. <A> I wouldn't recommend shoe polish with any dye in it at all, because it's only going to get on your gear, and <S> even "neutral" shoe polish is probably less likely to be formulated for a high friction application like a saddle as opposed to a shoe where waterproofing and "gloss" are the more likely goals. <S> I agree with the previous answer that a natural product is likely to have a better result than the synthetic ones, especially a combination of conditioning oil and wax, like the Proofide that Brooks recommends. <A> A saddle is a hammock in design, a glove is not, oil will break down the leather and make it eventually unable to handle the weight of a rider, and the leather will start to pull away from the rivets and you will have to adjust the tensioner a lot more frequently which will shorten the life of the saddle. <S> Brooks has been making their saddles for over 100 years, they know how best to treat their saddles. <S> So follow only their care instructions and not some bicycle guru on the internet, or your local bike shop, or some friend, etc. <S> Brooks even states in their warranty that the use of any other product other then Proofide on their saddle will void their warranty, end of story.
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Do not use glove oil on a Brooks saddle.
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Strange noise coming from bottom bracket/crank I've just bought a Trek 6300 and I'm getting a strange creaking coming from the crank/bottom bracket when I'm stand pedalling. It only happens when I'm stand pedalling, and only what appears to be on my right hand side. It's like a triple click on each downward motion on the right pedal. But again, only when stand pedaling? Any ideas? I didn't buy the bike brand new from a shop, I bought it off of one a friend of a friend who used it for a charity ride in January and hasn't used it since, hence he sold it. I just find it odd that the noise only happens on the right hand side. Could it be that the chain is catching the front derailer? I'm still relatively new to mountain bikes. <Q> If you only just bought it from a shop, take it back and get them to sort it, but do ask what the problem was. <S> If you want to fix it yourself, it's worth determining the frequency and type of noise that you're hearing. <S> I used this site when I had an issue similar to yours <S> and I tried taking pedals off, the crank arm off and eventually took it to a bike shop and it was the bottom bracket that was making the noise. <A> The other possibilities are a bad pedal, a loose BB cartridge, or misalignment of the derailer. <A> I've had a similar noise before and it would only appear when I'd really put a lot of pressure on the left crank. <S> And it appeared right after fixing a puncture on my rear wheel. <S> It took me a while, but I realized that when putting my rear wheel and axle back in, I didn't tighten the quick release enough, and the lower part of the frame and chainstay would creak since the frame would twist and flex at every left crank push, making it feel like it was the BB (poor BB getting accused of every creak here and there). <S> Then again, if that doesn't work, I would definitely bring it back to the shop to get it sorted out. <S> Hope that helps. <A> I've had noise with my cranks <S> when under pressure like yours in the best case it was just a loose crank in the worse case <S> my bottom bracket must of had a crack as it later broke off when I was cranking through an insection and crashed hard. <S> Tighten your cranks if the noise is still there take apart your cranks and inpect the spindle . <A> I have an almost identical situation, but I think I've narrowed it down to the pedal, actually. <S> It seems that the pedal is worn out and creaks under pressure.
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Lower frame creaks are very hard to diagnose as it can be so many things. Yep, if you just bought it, take it back!!! Even if you have to pay someone, this sort of thing should be fixed immediately, if not sooner, and avoid riding until you do, as the problem could be a loose crank, and, if so, riding it will destroy the crank and axle.
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What options do I have when replacing my fork's elastomers? I'm rebuilding an AntiGravity Fork and converting it to threadless for my 'Blast From the Past' bike (GT Bravado frame, U-Brake, Bullseye hubs and cranks, 21 speed). I really like these forks and I'd like to bring them back to life. The elastomers are shot. Some are falling apart, others are crushed and don't expand fully, etc. Given that the company is out of business and the chance of locating brand new AntiGravity elastomers is.... not good, I'm looking at what my options are. AntiGravity Elastomer Fork: Picture Option A: Wings-Suspension makes killer kits to convert Manitou/RockShox elastomer forks to springs. I emailed them with pictures and details to see if his springs would be compatible, but that's VERY doubtful. This would be my Option A if it worked. Wings Replacement Springs: Link | Picture Option B: Round Tubing from McMasters-Carr. I have been trying to just get something to replace them with, at this point. The main suspension uses 4x 1.25" OD 1/4" ID elastomers, and the rebound is controlled by 6x 3/4" OD 3/16" ID elastomers. McMaster-Carr seems to have close to what I'm looking for, with multiple choices: Main Elastomers: Neoprene Spring Rubber with 75A Durometer (hard) or Extreme Temperature Silicone Rubber in 60A (medium-hard). Rebound Elastomers: Only in 1/4" ID (slightly bigger than stock). They have Neoprene Spring Rubber in 75A (hard), Oil Resistant Buna-N Rubber in 75A (hard), and Extreme Temperature Silicone Rubber in 60A (medium-hard). Option C: ??? (short of buying a new fork) An answer can either be a link to better replacement material, or which types of the options above are best for a 180-190 lb rider. It would also be really helpful if someone could find a data sheet for this fork showing what the different original durometers were. In addition, has anyone ever done this before? should I cut them into 4x1.25" and 6x1" pieces, or leave them as one long tube since I'm not swapping them out individually (one of the 'perks' when these were sold)? Does anyone know how to estimate desired durometer / fork force for a given rider weight or desired stiffness? I'd rather be on the stiff side, but I have no idea what 75A or 60A mean in this context - they could be so squishy I bottom them out, or so hard I might as well get a rigid fork. AntiGravity Fork Internals: Picture McMasters Carr Round Tubing Link <Q> I had an elastomer suspension a lot of time ago, and did my own maintenance on the elastomer compartment. <S> I would not take a fork like this and put springs inside. <S> Bike suspension elastomers dampen the motion of the suspension in two ways: They expand laterally and generate friction against the inner walls of the suspension; <S> They have a natural visco-elastic mechanical behaviour <S> , that doesn't let the suspension "spring back" too fast. <S> With springs only (and no dedicated way to control the rebound), the suspension would become too "wild", I'd say. <S> I think you should take any elastomer kit that fits inside your suspension, with enough lateral clearance, and use it, no fear. <S> Micro-cellular urethane (MCU) was the topmost material used in bike suspension elastomer (before becoming almost obsolete). <S> It is important, too, that you put them inside the fork with lots of grease, and specifically LITHIUM-FREE GREASE, so that they don't chemically react with one other. <S> Most probably, there are specific suspension greases in bike shops. <S> Hope this helps <A> I went down to a LBS in Minneapolis, The Shockspital, and had a long conversation with a guy that had lots of spare parts, elastomers, springs, and lots of wisdom. <S> He's done many elastomer-spring conversions, and here's how I'm setting it up: <S> The bottom larger elastomers that handled the load are being replaced with 5" of spring, with an elastomer inside of them providing a small amount of rebound damping by resisting the rebound of the spring, and some compression damping after 40% of the spring is compressed (the yellow elastomers on the rods in the picture). <S> It's the long spring in the picture which will be cut and ground into two 5" segments. <S> The top smaller elastomers that provide the rebound force and compression damping are being replaced with an all-weather elastomer, all in once 6" piece (the purple elastomers on the rods at the top). <S> All in all, this should be a very responsive fork with some interesting characteristics, that will be a bit on the stiffer side of things for my weight. <S> For what it's worth, he's tried many times with the McMasters-Carr tubing, and it REALLY sucks. <S> It's far too soft to be of any use in forks. <S> It's made of a completely different material (I tried drilling out a piece of it, which didn't work at all and left black slime in my hand). <S> Don't bother with it. <S> I may have been able to use it in this case, because I'm adding a spring and have elastomers resisting compression in two places, but it's not worth the hassle and doesn't have the same type of characteristics of MCU. <A> Go to Manitou website and there are two vendors that have the exact fit elastimers 53 for a kit and 10 for the extended kit. <S> That it.
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Then I ordered Prothane polyurethane/urethane safe grease to coat the elastomers, rods, and fork internals with to prevent stiction.
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Bottom bracket with built-in internal hub - does this exist? I've heard that one can install a bottom bracket that has what is essentially a built-in internal hub, giving one the ability to add a virtual double chainring where there's only one. This would be designed to be used in concert with whatever gear cluster or internal hub you have installed in the rear. If this is true, does it exist in this form, or have I heard of a distorted version of the device? What are the advantages and disadvantages of such a bottom bracket? <Q> The Schlumpf drives have been around for several years and incorporate a two-speed planetary gear drive attached to the bottom bracket. <S> With the heel of your shoe, you tap a small button centered on the end of the bottom bracket to engage and disengage the planetary gear. <S> Three models are available: a "mountain gear" version that lowers whatever other gears you have by a factor of 2.5; a "speed gear" version that raises your other gears by 1.65x; and a "high-speed gear" version that raises your other gears by 2.5x. <S> Schlumpfs have also been installed on unicycles which (obviously) are ordinarily a single fixed-gear. <S> However, despite the straight chain the Schlumpf drive appears to be less efficient in terms of power transmission. <S> Measurements suggest that the Schlumpf drives "cost" about 5% extra in drive train losses. <S> Since conventional derailleur systems range from around 92% to 97% in transmission efficiency (see for example, the work of Kyle and Berto here ), an additional 5% loss can be a considerable cost. <S> Pinion has brought an 18-speed gearbox to the market, the P1.18. <S> It isn't a "true" bottom-bracket with internal gears as is the Schlumpf -- rather, the gearbox is in a separate housing attached next to the bottom bracket, and it is not an "after-market" solution that can be easily added onto an existing bike. <S> The Pinion is intended for downhill or freeride bicycles that are purpose-built around the device. <A> Technically, no, there is no current commercially available gearbox bottom bracket. <S> Most likely, the Truvativ Hammerschmidt is the crankset you are thinking of. <S> There were also gearboxes designed by Honda, and a few other brands. <S> It allows a single chain ring, 2 x 9 or 2 x 10 gearing. <S> It is mainly aimed at the DH or freeride market, as it is a heavy, but very tough piece of kit. <S> The gearing is not suited for XC or endurance rides, for that reason. <S> As you can see in the Anatomy View below, the gear change is accomplished not in the Bottom bracket, but in the chain guide. <S> I hope that helps. <S> The technical manual can be found here . <A> Wikipedia ("Bicycle Gearing") and Google eventually led me to this: http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html <S> and this: http://pinion.eu/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18/ <S> (I would be afraid to put my money on these... ; <S> o) <A> FSA Metropolis. <S> http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/04/26/fsa-unveils-metropolis-patterson-drive-internal-geared-crankset-for-commuters/ <S> Advantages? <S> No front derailer and better ground clearance at the crankset. <S> Disadvantages? <S> Expensive. <S> Proprietary. <A> Kervelo uses some type of geared bottom bracket in its front wheel drive recumbent bikes. <S> I don't know how it works <S> but they have a website. <S> They make three models. <S> A tourer, a racing model, and a tricycle.
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The Schlumpf drives have been marketed to specialty bicycles such as folding or recumbent bikes that use small diameter wheels, and thus can have difficulty getting "normal" gearing using off-the-shelf components. An advantage of the Schlumpf drive is that with only one chain ring, there is no need for a front derailleur and the chain line is straight -- and one can tap the button to engage or disengage the drive even while stopped.
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How long should MTB disc brake pads last? I'm fairly new to mountain biking and I was able to put in around 900 miles on my first set of brake pads on my Giant Anthem X2. At that point they started grinding metal on metal. I went and bought new Shimano pads (I have Shimano brakes) and after only 100 or so miles one of the front ones has already worn out. The last time I rode the bike was in rain and mud so I'm not sure if that contributed to it. How long do the brake pads typically last? Is there something else going on? <Q> There are different types of pads, even to fit the same model of brakes. <S> Resin pads are softer, and will last less mileage, particularly in wetter weather, but still should last far longer than 100 miles. <S> I would say that the rotors are damaged from being ridden metal on metal before, and need to be replaced, along with new brake pads. <S> Your mileage will vary based on weather, braking habits, pad type, riding style and terrain. <S> But you should normally get 500-700miles from a resin pad, and 1000-1250 miles from a sintered metal pad. <A> The Strathpuffer race ( a 24 hour MTB race in Scotland in January) is famous for grinding down brake pads in one night. <S> The year I did it, I replaced the brake pads twice during the 24 hour period. <S> Its something to do with the mud at Strathpeffer turning into a grinding paste that just eats the brake pads. <S> Saying that though, in everyday use, a set of brake pads last me a season. <A> To add one more data point - I have a Trek FX Sport 5 that I bought a little under a year ago. <S> Been riding 50-250 miles per month on it, call it 1800 miles since purchase, and I just had the pads wear out. <S> My normal ride is a 500ft elevation change, with the majority of the elevation change within a half mile stretch. <S> Edit: <S> Sorry, just realized this post was specific to mountain bikes. <S> I'm riding a hybrid bike on pavement, not offroad. <S> Sorry! <A> I'm fairly new to mountain biking. <S> So I think in such short time you have not done so well with your pads. <S> I hope I helped. <A> I've made 1700 km before I changed my pads <S> (just rear - front pads are still OK, at about 50%). <S> I had resin pads and now I have switched to sintered metal - so far not too loud, but braking force is better. <S> I have Shimano BR-M395 hydraulic brakes, and IMHO <S> they are great (not perfect, but in city - more than enough for me). <A> I have Promax Decipher Hydraulic brakes <S> and I have sintered metal brake pads. <S> I have roughly done about 1000 miles in last 6 months. <S> My brake pads are still fine. <S> It seems like they will probably do another 800 miles without a problem. <S> I had these other mechanical disc brakes and their brake pads finished under 100 miles. <S> I changed the rotor and the calliper and after that no problems. <S> I would suggest you to do the same. <S> Hope that helps.
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However, I have been riding using my Avid Elixir 3's since August last year and have only had to change the pads this week having done 25-40 miles every week. Sintered metal pads last longest, but are noisiest, often to the point of not being worth the better durability.
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Speed and Cadence Bike Sensor Opinions I'm looking to start tracking my speed and cadence for my iOS app, Cycle Meter. The app works great for distance, time, but is not accurate at all for measuring my speed. So I'm thinking of buying a Garmin or a Wahoo speed/cadance sensor and wanted to get the community's opinion on the two. I'm not worried about price. More about quality, functionality. The two in question are: http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Premium-Speed-and-Cadence-Bike-Sensor.asp https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1266 Update: been using the Wahoo one for a few weeks now and have to say that I'm very happy with it. I've been in a lot of rain as well with no issues. <Q> Fady listening to music while riding is probably the most dangerous thing you can do so <S> do not explore that idea please.. <S> With that said I use the edge 500 <S> and it has loads of functionality and will most likely support all your needs. <S> You will usually need to purchase a speed/ cadence sensor with it. <S> Battery life is great so long as you have it set to turn off with inactivity. <S> I do still carry my phone in my jersey pocket when out alone just in case somethin happens. <A> I had the Garmin one (came with my Edge 500) and after about 6 months it died on me. <S> After some reading it seems that the Garmin version is only water resistant. <S> Living just outside of Vancouver BC I get a bunch of rain and ride in lots of wet. <S> I even took it apart and the little screw that attaches the arm has no sealing so water just gets in. <S> https://forums.garmin.com/showthread.php?p=89392 <S> I now have the Wahoo sensor and have about 600km on it. <S> It works fine and was easy to set up. <S> I can't really give you long term use feedback <S> but at this point I'd get another one instead of the Garmin. <A> There's really nothing to discuss, it's been solid for at least 4 years, requires no set up, and just works, at least in my experience. <S> I use the Wahoo iPhone dongle, when I use it for my iPhone, and when I use the iPhone to set up my power meter crank set. <S> Both work well. <S> I didn't find using the iPhone to be all that practical to use as a bike computer, and the cost of the sensors and dongles and cases was just about the same as the dedicated Edge 800 by the time <S> all was said and done. <S> I hope that helps.
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I use the Garmin, originally with my iPhone, and since with my Garmin Edge 800.
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Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette? I want to use an 8-speed shifter with a 7-speed cassette. I saw this question , but I am unsure if this would work, since I believe the spacing is the same between a 7- and 8-speed, but the length is not. <Q> You can do that, the spacing is the same. <S> As already pointed, you're going to have a "phantom gear" on your shifter. <S> If you let the normal order until gear 7, and have an 8th gear on the lever as an "empty" or "ghost" gear, there is no danger to overstretch anything, but the shifter cable might become too loose, to the point of the housings coming out of their stops. <S> Anyway, the gear spacing is the same, and there would be any necessary damage in any part, except one of the positions of the shifter not being used. <S> Also, this could be a good alternative to upgrade the shifter, and only some time later to upgrade the rear wheel. <S> At last, have in mind that these systems are not in production anymore (as far as I know). <S> Hope this helps <A> You can't over shift if your rear derailleur is adjusted correctly (the high and low limit screws will prevent it). <S> You will just have a phantom gear – like they say. <A> It will work but as JackM. states make sure you limits are adjusted precisely. <S> You also have to decide if you want to risk over shifting on the low gear or high side. <A> Assuming you have a 7 speed cassette that can be disassembled and not a 7 speed freewheel.... <S> the cog spacing (center to center) of 8 spd is 4.8mm, the cog spacing of 7 spd is 5.0mm. <S> Replace the plastic cog spacers of the 7 spd (3.15 thick) with 8 spd spacers (3.0 thick)....readily available on line. <S> This will yield a 4.85mm cog spacing.... <S> shifting should be oblivious to the .05mm difference. <S> Lockring should still tighten the starter cog, otherwise get a 1mm spacer and put it under the largest cog.
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If you let gear number 2 on the shifter correspond to gear number 1 in the cassette, you should take care not to press too hard on the lever when you are already in gear 2, since this should overstretch the cable or the lever. I have revised cassettes both ways (7 to 8 and 8 to 7) successfully.
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LBS said creaking under torque is normal? On my last question I asked about a creaking/tick I was getting when I was stand pedaling on a climb. I took it to my LBS today and they said they had stripped all the crank and BB and re-greased it all and all is well. When I took it out that evening it clearly wasn't and was probably worse so obviously I took it back there today. They then told me that really the whole gear system is designed so that I don't need to stand pedal uphill. My response was don't talk to me like a 5 year old and explained that I like the challenge of sprinting uphill. Apparently according to the man who served me, theres not a lot I can do to prevent this noise when I'm stand pedaling? My other bikes don't do it, but apparently a Trek 6300 does much to my confusion? Can someone please tell me if this is normal? Or am I getting conned? He basically tried to make me feel a bit stupid as I'm still new to this and then decided that trying to sell me a Shimano Hollowtech 2 chainset including BB which would help strengthen the bottom of the bike and prevent the noise? I'm a bit confused now to be honest and would like some unbiased expert advice from you guys. <Q> First, to respond to the issue of your LBS -- you shouldn't be made to feel foolish or to feel obligated to purchase expensive replacement parts. <S> The lack of attention and reassurance you're getting suggests that maybe you need to take your business elsewhere (which can be difficult if there are few local options). <S> While there are a number of components which have a tendency to creak or tick while remaining safe and functional (your BB for example), what your LBS should have checked for is any integrity issues with your frame (though, they may have done so and not mentioned it. <S> Who knows?) <S> Bicycle frames (Al, CroMo, Ti, Carbon Fiber...) can develop cracks in a number of places which, when stressed by pedaling aggressively, can generate creaks or ticks in time with pedaling forces. <S> Some bike frames will live decades with cracks while others can--and do--fail catastrophically (i.e. your head tube tearing off...though, thankfully, this is infrequent). <S> I recommend that you take your bike to a different bike shop and ask them to investigate this potential problem (more info on frame inspections here ). <S> If they're good, they'll give you sound advice about repairs or replacement <S> (avoid trashing your other shop, though. <S> It's bad etiquette.) <S> If the noise is a component, a good shop will solve the problem; a mediocre shop will replace every component one-by-one until the issue is solved (and a terrible shop will try to sell you a new bike!) <S> Understand, however, <S> that nuisance squeaks and creaks can be quite common--even for experienced cyclists. <A> I've had the same problem and it was infuriating. <S> I took it to 3 different shops with varying levels of success. <S> Eventually I found an excellent shop who spent about a week investigating and fixing. <S> In the end they found creaks in: Bottom bracket <S> Headset/steering Pedals Wheels (both with spokes and <S> the quick release being too loose) <S> Saddle <S> I now have my whisper quiet bike back, but the investigation took a lot of effort and skill. <A> Check your chainring bolts. <S> As others have said, creaks can come from a lot of places and even sound like they're coming from one spot when it's really somewhere else. <S> Modern frames are like guitar bodies, they amplify/resonate the sound and often obfuscate the source. <A> Maybe this should be a comment to WTHarper's answer, but creaks when pedaling can also be fasteners that are failing. <S> I have an electric bike that has two chains and an intermediate axle - a chain goes from the cranks to the intermediate, then another from the intermediate to the freewheel. <S> I started hearing creaking noises when pedaling hard, but didn't get a chance to look into it until the 4 bolts holding a cog on the intermediate had sheared off.
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Second, your creak/tick is not normal (and, as many have rightly pointed out, could come from many components which carry your pedaling force). I'd suggest trying to find a better bike shop that specialises in servicing rather than sales.
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How does one ride 'no handed'? Learning to ride no-handed has been on my new year resolution list year after year after year and I still haven't done it. I'm 46 so I need to be careful about falling off. Do people have fool-proof techniques for learning to ride no-handed they can share? Just to clarify after Daniel 's comment below I have three bikes, a racer, a commuting bike, and a mountain bike. The mountain bike is twitchy but the others feel stable. <Q> Do it little by little. <S> Ironically, you probably don't want to be doing this on a surface that will give you a soft landing. <S> I suppose a flat playing field might work, but cycling on grass isn't as smooth as cycling on tarmac and you'll need a predictable, flat surface to work with. <S> The biggest skill to master is steering through weight, not through moving the handlebars. <S> You probably do this anyway, but it's something to work on deliberately while you've got two hands on the bars. <S> Just sway your weight from side to side and try to go in the direction you want - in a moment you'll be steering like this for real, so try and get it going well when you don't need it. <S> I don't think it's worth going <S> one handed first <S> - this is an all-or-nothing exercise. <S> Get going in a straight line with your hands lightly on top of the bars (if you're on dropped handle-bars) and just relax your hands. <S> Hold them flat on the bars and just lift them. <S> Don't look at them. <S> Just lift them a little. <S> A fraction of an inch will feel like a foot ... <S> But then just try to do things with the hands off the bars. <S> Do the leaning and swaying from side to side. <S> Just a little amount. <S> Just enough to drift a little off line then get you back going in a straight line. <S> Then once you're happy, try to sit up. <S> The more you practice, the less of a problem this becomes. <S> You will feel very unsteady as your centre of gravity moves around. <S> The key here is that on most bikes your centre of gravity is quite low, somewhere around your knees, but as you take your hands off the bars and sit up, it rises significantly, so you need to be happy in controlling it and how to react to how the bike is taking it. <S> Pretty soon you'll be taking corners. <S> Of course, don't forget that, unless you're on a fixed or have non-standard equipment, the only way to stop suddenly is probably quite painful ... <A> You should find it pretty easy to pedal with no hands for a second. <S> Once you're able to do this, progressively leave your hands off the bars for longer. <S> Two things you should note: Riding no-handed is actually pretty dangerous. <S> If you accidentally hit a walnut-sized rock it can turn your handlebars enough to toss you. <S> Riding no-handed is illegal in some areas, and you can get a hefty ticket (e.g. Ontario). <A> I have a "beater" I bought for $1 at a garage sale to ride/leave at the train station. <S> It must have a bend in the frame somewhere <S> b/c <S> I can't let go of the bars w/out it pulling. <S> My road bike however, I can go easily and corner no handed. <S> I think it's easiest to do while pedaling, and to learn to "stear with your hips". <S> Hope that helps. <A> Half off-topic, as this does not really answer your question, but I think this warning is quite in order, and thus on-topic: Don't ride no-handed . <S> At the very least, not without shoes that lock into your pedals. <S> The reason is the failure mode, which I, for one, unfortunately learned the hard way: When you ride no-handed, you have exactly three points of contact with your bike. <S> The saddle, and the two pedals. <S> That suffices to keep your balance and allows for steering. <S> But there is no redundancy at all . <S> If you loose one pedal from under your foot, you immediately loose the other one too. <S> Your pedals are connected to each other, and the pressure of one foot provides the counter-pressure from the other pedal to the other foot that's necessary to keep both feet connected to your bike. <S> After you've lost your pedals, you only have one connection left to your bike, the saddle. <S> And that is neither enough for keeping balance in the long run, nor for any kind of steering. <S> You immediately, and utterly loose control over your bike . <S> It's just game-over. <S> If your bike is heading for a moat, you'll end up in the moat. <S> If your bike is heading for an oncoming truck, you'll meet this truck. <S> You'll neither have a chance of braking, nor to regain control in any way. <S> When this happened to me, I was heading towards a traffic light that was about 5 to 10 meters away, and there was nothing I could do to reduce the impact. <S> This encounter got me four weeks on crutches, and a lesson well-learned. <S> I hope you do learn this lesson from me, instead of learning it the hard way as I did. <A> I've just re-learned this at age 40. <S> Also - remind yourself to look ahead instead of down at your handlebars, and make sure you are comfortable perched on the saddle with your weight back <S> - the saddle is going to be the main way you move the bike around. <S> I agree with cmaster that the best place to do this is away from a road where you would interact with vehicle traffic, as it takes an extra second or two to get your hands on the brakes for an emergency.
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It's a lot easier (at least for me) on a rigid bike than one with suspension, as the bike is more responsive to shifting your weight. One thing to mention is if the bike is messed up at all, it's a lot harder to ride no-handed. It's easy to work up to riding no handed comfortably. Like a learner driver, go find a car park or a quiet road, you don't want to be doing this in the traffic. There are bike lanes closed to vehicle traffic where I live, and you can easily steer around the odd pedestrian without holding your handlebars.
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Gash where valve meets tire tube; How could this happen, and can I fix it? I'm fairly new to bicycling; apologies if this is a standard question but I couldn't figure out how to phrase it to search for it elsewhere. I ride a KHS Urban-X with Kenda Kwest tires (just what it came with). I've gotten barely any use out of it since owning it, and it's been resting comfortably in the living room through the winter, so I decided today was a great day to get back on. So I unscrewed the back tire cap, and began to hand-pump air into the tire. All seemed to go well, and the tire held pressure fine, but when I removed the tire pump, the pin appeared to remain pushed down slightly, and air flowed back out of the tire. I looked, and this is what I saw: Several narrow gashes that appear as if the rubbed was ripped, cut, or separated somehow. Questions Is this a common occurrence? Again, I've ridden on this bike very little and thus filled up the tires even less. We have no animals and no bugs around that I know of that would gnaw or chew on such material. Is this fixable, or is my tube completely shot? It would seem to me that the latter is the case. Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? I use a hand pump but am gentle; would a stand-up pump be a better choice? Do bike tires come with a standard warranty for cases like this, or do you know of any brands that do? If I have to purchase new tires, I'm going to purchase Is there any kind of "off-season" maintenance that I should be performing on my bike that could prevent things like this? Thanks in advance for any help you can give! <Q> When you do that the tube tends to slide around in the tire and can get cut against the edge of the rim. <S> However, this could also be the result of using a hand pump, which, if you don't "buck" it against something or hold the head steady will move the stem back and forth rather violently. <S> A "floor pump" prevents this sort of damage (and also makes inflation much easier). <S> The tube is toast. <S> However, this is not a particularly expensive repair. <S> A new tube will run you $5-10, and replacing it is something you need to learn to do anyway. <A> This could be caused by a tube that was installed with the valve not perpendicular to the rim. <S> It's quite a common problem, and I don't believe that a patch will work because they're designed to work on flat rubber. <A> While you can try and file this down a bit, I've always found it simpler to get about 4cm x 2cm of old tube, cut a 5mm slice into it, and then push the valve through this. <S> This will mean that you have tube = <S> > <S> valve through old tube = <S> > valve through sharp valve hole. <S> Any damage will be done only to the old tube. <A> If using a Presta valve this can be caused by having the stem nut done up to tightly (effectively trying to pull he stem through the rim) <S> Not the case here, but maybe useful for future searchers.
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Most likely this is a result of riding the tire while the pressure is too low. If this issue persists (i.e. your tubes keep failing near the valve stem), then you likely have a "sharp" rim or burred valve hole.
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Is this normal for my new Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6? I purchased a new Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6 in early March. I have roughly 250 miles on it. After the first 100 miles I took it back to my LBS to have it adjusted and tightened up. Before I did this, it would creak a fair amount when pedaling hard or shifting my weight around on the bike. The 100 mile adjustment didn't seem to help this. I know my LBS actually did what they were supposed to do because I watched them. I can't really tell where the creaks are coming from, but it's in multiple places. One place it seems to be a bit noisy is in the crank. I would think that for the $1100 I paid for this bike, it should be absolutely silent. Is this normal for my type of bike? <Q> No bike, no matter how good, is absolutely silent. <S> It's possible that this bike needs to be tuned better, but more likely, it's simply the fact that it is Shimano's most basic 10 speed components and what is for Cannondale a more basic alloy frame. <S> I would suggest taking it to a different LBS for an opinion on what the real problem is, or if there is one. <S> It could be a loose or dry bottom bracket, headset, hubs, chain, chain ring bolts, saddle, seat post or pretty much <S> any other moving part on the bike. <S> I hope that is helpful. <A> The main thing to worry about with a noisy crank is that the crank arm may be loose. <S> If this is so then the crank arm and shaft will be destroyed in short order. <S> Presumably the shop checked to be sure that the crank arms were tight. <S> If so, then on a new bike there are no other creaks that are likely to signal a serious problem. <S> Whether the noises should be there is another question, but as Zen says, no bike is perfectly silent. <A> Have you looked after the chain properly? <S> A two month old bike, ridden in adverse conditions, could easily have developed a creaky chain. <A> I had the same problem, in my case it was due to the Bottom Bracket, apparently the ones they used are notorious for it <S> as if any water is splashed near them it washes some of the grease out <S> To fix it you can apply spray grease into the BB. <S> Though bear in mind that it could be coming from the seat, seat post, headset. <S> Good Luck!! <A> Mine was making noise from the seat post. <S> It got fixed, but still, when I apply pressure on the pedals in the higher gears, I hear strange noise that I can't tell from where it is coming, it is annoying.
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It will not harm the bike though it is very annoying.
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Bike Rack for Hatchback vehicle? I have a hatchback-style Vehicle (2007 Ford Focus) and a KHS Urban-X Bicycle. Are there any standard styles of mount that work best in this situation? Can you recommend any in particular or point me towards particular styles? Thanks! <Q> My answer only applies if you will be hauling your bike(s) frequently or somewhat frequently. <S> My solution may not be worth it for occasional use, because one would need to invest in a trailer hitch for mounting the rack. <S> Get a trailer hitch like this: <S> (Notice that the "trailer" hitching part is removable and the bike rack fits into that spot) <S> And then choose one of several trailer hitch bike racks . <S> You may or may not haul a trailer <S> , however, the bikes will ride a hitch mount just fine. <S> With a hitch mount you don't have to worry about overhead clearance or (usually) the inability to open the rear hatch of the car. <S> My hitch mount can haul 4 bikes, (and I can still open the trunk) <S> but I haven't used the total capacity yet. <S> Why do I like this? <S> The bike rack locks onto the trailer hitch in 5 minutes or less <S> The bikes are situated in 15 minutes or less. <S> I'm good to go. <S> I don't have to worry about strapping things down or getting the trunk open, or overhead clearance. <A> The Saris Bones racks are popular and have good quality construction. <A> It comes in a 1.25 and 2 inch hitch size (the 2 inch version can expand to hold 4 bikes, the 1.25 will hold max of 2 bikes). <S> Thule 2 Bike Platform Hitch Rack (917XTR-T2) <S> It is not a cheap rack, but it is worth the price for the hassle it saves. <A> Look for something similar to the Pendle SO . <S> They are good quality, cheap, easy to use, and about the only way to go on a hatchback. <A> This is a Thule trunk-mounted rack. <S> Typically used on sedans, but it also works on some (not all) hatchbacks and wagons. <S> If you can mount one of these so that the top bar rests on the edge of the hatch, not on the glass, then it should work. <S> But this might be a problem with your Focus - it has a sort of visor at the top of the rear window, right? <S> That part is probably not designed to bear weight, so it wouldn't hold up at all. <S> I'd look into roof-mounted racks if I were you.
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I have the Thule rack (on my mini cooper), it works great (takes about 10 seconds to mount a bike), and I can still open the hatch with it on.
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Why are 10 speed chains so expensive? I've noticed that 10-speed chains cost 2.5 times as much as their 9 speed counterparts. Is this just because there isn't much demand for these, so the manufacturers can justify the ridiculous expense? Is there a cheaper option? <Q> There are 10 speed compatible chains starting around $20. <S> However, most shops, in order to limit the number of different items they need to stock, will only stock higher end chains, usually 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace, and SRAM's PC-1071 and 1091r. <S> Which are more expensive, but have the advantage of being compatible with any 10 speed drive train. <S> Most likely, there is some difference in price because 10 speed technology is only just starting to move to the most basic of quality bikes, and there hasn't until recently been a need for a low price/basic quality option for 10 speed. <S> 9 speed was the same way. <S> It will get better, as the need for low end 10 speed gets more universal. <A> My assumption is that racing bicycles (which 10 speed chains are generally used on) are used by an audience with a much higher median income than any other cyclist. <S> I read an article recently and i believe the salary was around 60k a year. <S> Just my assumption tho :) <S> Also i do no know of any alternative other than a cheaper chain which will typically be heavier but usually just as or more durable. <A> I believe that the ten speed chains have a narrower link in order to fit the tighter cassette, which might actually cost more to fabricate. <S> I know that in the SRAM chains you have to use a new PowerLock link each time according to the instructions, so it's still tool less but not something you want to use for a weekly cleaning.
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I think the industry uses this as a means to inflate the prices on all 10speed/ racing style bicycles.
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Bike lock for a Mountain bike with easily removable wheels I have a Trek 3500 that I need to lock up when I ride city trails, but I have been nervous as both of the wheels are incredibly easy to remove (flip a switch, rotate a lever a few times and they detach in seconds.) I purchased a cable lock assuming it would be sufficient, but the more I read here about how easy cable locks are to remove I'm getting a little nervous as bike theft is a pretty big problem in my area. Is a combination of a cable and a U-Lock the best? I purchased a decent (but not high end) cable lock, and I reviewed most of the suggestions for locks found in Best bike lock and the other threads. However the cost of a combination of these locks is around $120+. In the end, its not the money (as having to buy a new bike obviously wouldn't be good), but is it worth it to invest so much into a combination of lock systems? <Q> Perhaps you might swap your current quick-release skewers by one of the many "anti-theft" alternatives (listed in my perceived order of security): <S> Pitlock ( www.pitlock.com ): <S> these require a special shaped key to open. <S> You carry the keys with you, and no thief could take the wheel. <S> Neither yourself if you lose the damn key; Velo Orange anti-theft skewers : a 5mm allen bolt with a pin inside. <S> Need a special 5mm allen key with a drilled tip, to open. <S> VERY clever... <S> When your bike is locked to something else, it cannot be turned upside down <S> so it's impossible to take the wheels away; <S> "Numbered padlock" style skewer: these have those infamous numbered dials. <S> You have to match a secret code to open the skewer. <S> Although one can try to guess the number, there are 1000 combinations on the 3-digit models. <S> Don't know how they react to weather and dirt, though... <S> There are a number of other alternatives. <S> The main idea is to replace the quick-release skewers for some anti-theft ones, so the wheels (and maybe seatpost) don't need to be locked, only the bike frame. <S> Hope this helps. <A> my bike was stolen recently (in SF) with a basic ulock, so i decided to get a chain lock & and abus ulock for the front tire/frame. <S> (abus locks our light but with no compromise to protection) <S> If one were looking to have maximum protection, i'd think both of these locks would do the trick. <S> OnGuard Beast 5017 <S> Bicycle Chain Lock <S> Abus Granit Futura 64 Mini Shackle Bicycle U <S> Lock - 150mm <S> edit: <S> well, i would recommend the abus lock, as it has the same protection level as kryptonite / on guard locks, but is a lot lighter in weight, which is nice. <S> i had my previous kryptonite lock broken into, so i decided to try another brand. <S> the on guard chain is a little overkill, but it will certainly get the job done. <S> i would use the ulock for the front tire and frame and then loop the chain lock around the back tire and through the ulock. <S> the chain is heavy, so i recommend wrapping it around your waist when riding, NOT around your shoulder. <A> I present to you <S> the Modified Sheldon Brown Method <S> which I use regularly on most of my bicycles.
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No thief in the world would have this drilled key; Gravity-activated skewers, like this one by Zéfal: there is some moving part inside the skewers acting as a lock on certain bike positions.
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Using Anti Seize in place of Grease I bought Nickel Anti-Seize to prevent any corrosion issues between metals, and I generally like using it on my vehicles on bolts and anything I plan on removing later. I'm wondering where it would be appropriate for me to use Anti-Seize instead of grease on my bicycle, and where it would be considered a 'no-no.' The nickel type is very corrosion resistant, and temperature resistant to 2400 degrees. My current thinking would be along these lines: Desirable Threaded Headset Bottom Bracket Threads Lightly on seatpost? Cantilever brake mounts Disc brake pivot points? Threads on QR skewers / seatpost clamp Other bolt threads Maybe ??? Headset Bearings ??? Bottom Bracket Bearings ??? Hub Bearings ??? Inside fork tubes ??? (I have prothane grease because I have elastomers, but perhaps in spring forks it might be ok) Chain (probably a bad idea, chain lube seems specially formulated and much thinner) Spoke nipples (need loctite or nipple prep in this case, don't want the nipples to loosen) Basically what I'm really asking here is, can I use it like grease in my hubs, bottom bracket, and headset? It doesn't really harden, and is rather lubricative, so what would happen? Nickel Anti-Seize Data Sheet: .pdf <Q> Anti-sieze is a corrosion preventer. <S> It is not a lubricant. <S> Generally, using it on threaded parts is acceptable, but using it on bearing races, bearings, pressfit installation points, seatposts, handlebar stems, etc... is not a good idea. <S> There is no hard and fast rule, but if you think about the purpose of the "lubricant" on the specific part, you should be able to make a good judgement. <S> i.e. "Do I need lubrication for this part to move smoothly and work efficiently? <S> If so, I should use grease." <S> or "Do I need lubrication for this part to so that it is not stuck in the frame later? <S> If so, I could use anti-sieze." <A> Now there IS good reason to think of it as a lubricant, starting with the title, 'Anti Seize Lubricant', one of the primary ingredients being grease and graphite <S> (graphite being a solid lubricant that shears easily), the datasheet, which describes it as such. <S> It does warn: CAUTION: <S> LOCTITE Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant is not a high-speed load carrying lubricant and should not be used on ball or roller bearings, or on parts where lubrication is critical. <A> There is no simple rule that says here is ok <S> but here is not. <S> You can use it on the seat tube,crank arms are ok but not the crank arm bolts. <S> Use it pretty much any place metal parts are pressed together. <S> You want to avoid the threads of critical fasteners as it can allow them to loosen over time. <S> Also avoid the clamp sections of the stem,you want a tight grip between the stem and the bars and the stem and the steerer tube. <S> I guess the easiest way to think about where to use is any place that has a close tolerence fit that is subject to corrosion <S> but in everyday use doesn't move.
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You don't want to use it on any bearings as the lube. On quick release skewers antisieze on the shaft is ok,but avoid the threaded portion. I have used on bearing races at the mating surface,where the race presses into the frame.
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Why offset the rear rim to the hub and not the hub in the frame? I'm currently reading The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt, and I'm reading all of the issues with offsetting the rear rim toward the drive side of the hub... Asymmetry in a rear wheel built for a multispeed gear cluster makes it weaker against side loads coming from the right side. This means that the wheel bends to the left more easily than the right. The greater the offset, the weaker the wheel. In order to reduce offset for six-, seven- and eight-speed clusters, hubs have been built with narrower flange spacing. Although they reduce the disparity in tension between left-side and right-side spokes, they weaken the wheel against lateral forces. So, I'm curious, why is it the standard to do so? Why not center the rim to the hub just like the front, and then offset the frame's drive side rear triangle to accomodate the difference? It may shift the chain line a bit, but this doesn't seem like anything that challenging to adjust for. The strength and durability benefits are huge, and the only downside I can see is that you couldn't arbitrarily change rear hub widths (not that it seems they change that often anyway), or you may have to introduce the offset again. Why don't bicycle manufacturers start doing this instead? Do they make frames that you can use a rear wheel built with the rim centered on the rear hub? Rear Wheel Offset --> <Q> The biggest functional reason actually would be chain line. <S> You could make the hub shell wider, and run an offset dropout to allow the space for the gears, but then you would have to run a similar offset on the bottom bracket to maintain a usable chain line. <S> Because a change like this requires such a radical redesign of pretty much every bicycle component, it would require a consensus from the entire range of bike manufacturers to be put into practical or wide spread use. <S> So you could call it tradition, but I think momentum would be more accurate. <S> The existing body of design work would need to radically change to accommodate something like this, and that is a lot of "mass" to shift. <S> Since existing wheel structures and designs are working for riders as is, most companies choose to stay within the range of difference that allows the bike frame and other component designs to be affected as little as possible. <S> After all, there is no guarantee that an offset design would work in practice, and the benefit to it isn't major, given that existing designs work. <A> At first I read you to mean an off-center wheel plane, but not so. <S> Interesting question, i.e. does a bike remain stable/rideable if rear axle is not symetrical? <S> Tolerances in modern frames and wheel-drivetrain designs already nearly max out every clearance there is. <S> 2mm is a huge gap, exceeding the clearance between chain and right rear seatstay in the smallest rear sprocket; since the wider rear hub of 130mm (135mm in tandems) years back, clearance between rider's ankles and the right chain stay can cause contact. <S> Solutions to spoke issues have included narrower rear hub flanges, and asymetrical rear rims, as you mention, but I have seen no studies documenting significant weaknesses in either design solution; weaknesses instead occur in poor manufacturing criteria, quality control, loose spokes, etc. <S> No studies (beyond pure theory) indicate a well-made rear wheel has a dramatically weaker resistance laterally from one side versus the other? <S> Has there been a rash of left-turning rider crashes due to rear wheel failures I haven't heard about? <S> As mfg. <S> insist on solving more non-existent problems (ie 47-sp rear cogsets) eventually every current frame will be obsolete, and your solution of a wider rear axle standard* will be reality, but not to solve your problem. <S> It will instead create new problems, all of which will only be "solvable" by purchasing all-new bikes, totally incompatible with all that came before. <S> * <S> It's here - <S> Shimano 11-sp rear hubs actually are about 1.5mm wider than 130, which is considered safe to cram into rigid carbon rear drop-outs. <S> It may or may not provide for chain clearance on current frames, and requires all-new incompatible chain as well. <S> Why are the frogs in the warming pot not screaming yet? <A> As a builder of home bicycling contraptions myself (recumbents not bicycles) but also as a nationally competitive TT'ist (seniors) <S> I have a comment on centering. <S> Of course making the spoke offset symmetrical would (as mentioned prior) push the cogset far out, perhaps in 35-40mm range (just a rough guess). <S> It has been noted in cycling literature that it is no coincidence that the world's best TT'ist also ride with their knees close together. <S> It has also been documented in MIT's wind tunnel that the gap between the legs is a major contributor to air drag (noting that a bottle on the seat tube sometimes lowers air drag because it fills that gap). <S> Now, if you are talking about riding MB's, aero doesn't matter much <S> but if you a road guy who'd sell his soul for .1 <S> mph, then it does.
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To keep the chain line correct would force the right pedal to shift out to match (as mentioned prior also). Running the offset on the bottom bracket would affect Q factor positioning on many riders, and while some riders like or need additional stance width, most do not. I guess yes, as long as front/rear wheels are in line, but practical clearance issues immediately become apparent.
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What bike computer (speedometer) to get for mounting on the rear wheel? I'm looking to get a bike computer, primarily for the speedometer function. I use my bike on a trainer most of the time, and I'd like to get "speed" from that, so the sensor needs to be on the rear wheel. I'd prefer not to spend too much, but my budget is pretty high. Right now, the only feature I want is speed, but I'll learn to use any other useful features. I've read this question, and gotten some interesting data, but I don't really care about whether the unit is wired or wireless. It just needs to reach the back wheel and be reliable. <Q> If I start using my bike more (or I break the Cateye) <S> I'll look at getting something like the Garmins @zenbike mentioned. <A> This problem I have encountered myself, the wire length of most digital speedo's is not long enough to reach and be actually useable, the range of wireless speedo's are not good enough either, considering that you are only an extra 2 foot away from the receiver seems a bit much. <S> However! <S> A cheap wired speedo is your answer, replacing the wire with a longer one is the only cheap method which reliably works, you will need to use copper wire as it better at conducting electricial impulses compared to the cheap alloy use in the standard wires, test before installing to make sure your shed altered speedo actually works. <S> (Cheap speedo = <S> £5) <S> + (length of suitable copper wire = 50p) <S> + (ten minutes worth of time) = <S> problem solved <A> The best single sensor, rear wheel mounted computers are made by Garmin. <S> The Edge 500 or Edge 800 are amazing, if a bit pricey. <S> They do have pretty much every feature you could want in a cyclometer, and an easy to mount, stable, rear wheel only sensor. <A> The Bontrager Trip 3 is now offered as an inexpensive, rear-wheel-sensor computer with cadence. <S> Mine seems to do everything you'd want it to (measure speed and cadence, not catch fire.) <A> Time and tech wait for none of us. <S> Since this question was asked and answered 7 years ago, the smart trainer has become far more affordable and achieves your needs, at a cost. <S> These devices fit your bike in one of two ways: <S> replace your rear wheel+cassette, and support your weight while riding. <S> Hold the bike by the rear axle, and let your existing tyre turn a drum via friction. <S> In both styles the bike's front wheel remains on the floor but doesn't rotate. <S> Manufacturers include Tacx, Wahoo, Cycleops, and a bunch of other brands (no brand recommendations are given here). <S> The difference between these and the indoor trainers of before are that modern trainers will talk to a head unit or laptop or tablet via ANT+ or maybe bluetooth which is wireless. <S> Separately, indoor trainers like this can be used to complete "virtual rides" like zwift or trainerroad or a bunch of other services. <S> These take your output powers and send them over the internet to servers, that progress you through a level as though you're out riding for real. <S> Extra accessories can change the angle of your bike to simulate up and down hill grades. <S> Downside is the cost - all of this could cost more than your entire bike, and hundreds of times more than an 11 pound cateye bike computer with a bit of added bell-wire and some heatshrink. <S> Complete "pain cave" setup example - utter waste of aero-bike <A> I had Blackburn Delphi 3.0 Wired Bike Computer with Cadence. <S> This was not the best cyclocomputer, but at least it's that you asking for.
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Probably any wired cyclocomputer with cadence will have rear wheel sensor near crank. I've decided to go the cheap route - I got a Cateye Enduro 8 (which is wired, but not long enough) and I'll modify it to extend the wire.
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Exact dimensions for Wheelsmith Rim Rods? Does anyone have access to the Wheelsmith Rim Rod ERD measurement tool? I need to reproduce this no longer manufactured tool. Specifically, I need the length of the yellow portion of each rod, the diameter of the yellow portion of each rod, and the length and diameter of the alloy portion of the rod. Bonus points for the angle of the nipple seat at the join of the alloy portion and the yellow portion. Can anyone help me? <Q> Why bother? <S> There's 5 sets on eBay right now: Wheelsmith Rim Rods on eBay <A> I don't know if this asks the answer, but having myself either handled high-precision instruments before, and fiddled with inner rim diameter myself, before, I would consider these things: <S> Even if you HAD the instrument yourself, in your hands, It would be actually difficult to measure, annotate and manufacture the dimensions precisely. <S> Most times, reverse engineering is a process where reproducing the WORKING PRINCIPLE of a tool is much more important than reproducing the EXACT DIMENSIONS of the tool. <S> So, what I would suggest you to do <S> is: <S> Study and understand exactely what is the working principle of this tool. <S> It seems to me it is to fit rods with nipple-shaped endings inside diammetrically opposed holes in a rim, and then measure the distance between the two other endings of the known-sized rods, <S> so you can know some key distance, that I would define as the distance between the flat parts of the nipple's head. <S> Having a spoke ending there would allow for maximum thread contact without the spoke thread prodruding towards the tube, also with a comfortable tolerance of 1 or 2mm shorter spokes being perfectly useable. <S> Considering this working principle, take the most similar things possible: actual spokes with glued nipples in the thread ends, and some precisely placed measuring zones in the elbow side: <S> The elbows themselves. <S> You could tie them together, measure the distance, and add this distance to the already-known rod lengths; <S> Some smart-shaped-object, like a piece of a metal ruler, rigidly fixed (glued?) <S> in place of the elbow; <S> The naked tips of the wires after removing the elbows. <S> If this is done thoroughly, I think it is perfectly possible to achieve, with no great expense and no great work, a level of precision more than anough to build a wheel within the relatively loose tolerance allowed by spoke/nipple thread lengths. <S> I know this is not the answer for your question, but I think these considerations might be of your interest. <S> Hope this helps! <A> As it happens, I had to use the last resort. <S> Dimensions are 30mm length x 5 <S> mm diameter for the alloy portion. <S> 350mm length <S> x <S> 2.5mm diameter for the yellow portion. <S> And a 3.5 degree angle for the nipple seat.
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I think even if you take the original to a metal-machining shop, some precision would always be lost; There would be no way to be sure anyone of us measure it right, even if we were most interested in this reverse engineering process (I am, for sure, but I don't have the tool unfortunately).
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What is the best treatment (not prevention) of saddle sores What is the best way to treat saddle sores? Loose clothes, Gold Bond medicated powder, or Moisturizer? What seems to help reduce the painful symptoms of saddles sores once you already have them? I know how to prevent them, so I'd prefer to focus on what to do after you find yourself with this problem (like after you decided not use use chamois cream). <Q> Take a few days off. <S> Keep the area clean and dry. <S> Try diaper rash ointment or maybe Aloe Vera and perhaps something like neosporin or OTC acne ointment. <S> Cover affected area(s) with bandaging… such as a hydrocolloid or semiocclusive hydrogel dressing. <S> Personally, I'd use this along with an anti-bacterial ointment. <S> This especially if you aren't taking days off. <S> The goal is to avoid infection and speed healing. <S> You don't want boils forming. <S> For the DIY folks... diaper rash cream is primarily zinc oxide +- an anti-bacterial/anti-fungal ingredient carried in something like petrolatum. <S> Some also include hydrocortisone Enjoy. <A> Edit: <S> Even better is that all these products which help to heal you after, these same chamois cremes and bag balms, are designed to prevent saddle sores. <S> Grandma always said an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure, right? <S> Gold Bond, bag balm, or Assos <S> Loose clothes, not so much. <S> They tend to allow the skin contact which is best avoided once saddle sores or chafing come to visit. <S> I've used chamois creme applied directly on the skin after a ride, and that is quite effective as well. <S> Look for Assos Chamois Creme, DZ Nuts, or Chamois Butt'r. <S> I hope that helps. <A> In my experience, once the sores have formed, nothing beats a "cortisone" (hydrocortisone) cream like Cortaid -- it actually works to heal the sores, rather than simply "allowing" them to heal, so healing can occur in hours rather than days. <S> You can get a prescription version that's even better.
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After Ride Skin Repair gel all work well. There are many products, but they all boil down to one thing: Eliminating friction and moisture.
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Setting up a bicycle for someone with restricted knee articulation My father, now in his 70's, had a left knee replacement several years ago. He has limited movement in that knee - probably about 85 degrees on a good day. His knee can extend fully, but cannot bend as much as it should. As a result, he cannot pedal a bike he cannot get his left leg over the top of the pedal stroke. He is desperate to get back onto a bike, he knows he won't be ripping up the road and winning races like the old days, but wants the freedom to go for a slow easy rides. Does anyone have suggestions as to a solution to the problem. We don't mind spending money if we know the solution will work, but he can't afford to throw big money at wild ideas that may or may not work. If we find a solution, a new bike is likely. We have access several mountain bikes in a range of sizes to trail ideas, and we have all the tools and skills to build bikes up from parts and rearrange things as needed. EDIT:Thanks everyone - all great suggestions. What am am going to do is got tto the LBS and get hold of a cheap set of short cranks for around $30- probably from a kids bike, in the 120-150 size range, and see if he can ride that. Depending how he goes, I'll try a standard right crank and a short left crank. If all else fails, we will go for the Power Cranks UPDATE: In case anyone else has similar problems.Got some 152mm cranks for $30. Set an old mountain bike up with the seat as far back as possible. The old man is able to ride reasonably comfortably, now has a smile from ear to ear - any suggestions how to remove it - doesn't fit with the grumpy old man image :) Has got me wondering how many people with minor knee problems would benefit from short(er) cranks....... <Q> Look at Power Cranks. <S> They are a crank set with the ability to freewheel independently of each other. <S> It allows a slow build to fully articulated movement if additional rehab is still a goal, and using each crank independently means using a bike is still possible, even if doing so uses a pedaling motion which would be awkward for someone who had an option for full movement. <S> They also have adjustable crank lengths on each independent arm, which would allow you to use a shorter crank on the leg with the limited movement. <S> They are often used as a rehab tool, are a real, readily available, and not ridiculously priced product, and are install-able with normal bicycle tools. <S> One caveat <S> : They are shifting to a new poly carbonate fixing cap. <S> If you order, I recommend requesting the old alloy fixing caps. <S> The last set of poly caps I installed broke easily. <S> FTR, I have installed and used this product, and have no relationship with the manufacturer, nor will I be compensated in any way for this post. <A> I'm 70 & recently had a right total knee replacement & being a keen cyclist all my life <S> I was very worried I may never cycle again , so my local bike shop drilled a new hole for the pedal 25 mm further up the crank ,& it's perfect . <S> I've not bothered to cut off the excess , just in case I ever get full movement ! <S> I suppose it would've been easier if it had been the left side crank ! <A> I have also seen pictures, many years ago in an old bike book, of a crank with a pivoting piece. <S> Basically, imagine the crank cut off at about the 2/3rds point, and then the cut-off piece reattached with a pivot. <S> The crank would go down to the bottom of the stroke, but only come up a little over midway. <S> (Kinda like a car on a Ferris wheel.) <S> Unfortunately, I have no idea if this is still made, or where you might find it. <S> Update: <S> Apparently if you Google "pendulum swing crank" you will find examples. <A> Is this any use? <S> Very similar solution to the power cranks (I think) http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-crank-shorteners-prod239/ <S> The link leads to Thorn crank shorteners. <S> A flat bar with two long homes where the bar is attached in parallel to the crank. <S> It bolts to the bottom bracket spindle and pedal thread. <S> There are threaded holes to attach the pedal at different positions on the bar. <A> I just started riding again because I found a solution to limited range of motion due to total knee replacements in both knees. <S> Check out Unicam Retroflex . <S> It is an EU solution that is remarkable. <S> I found a similar solution on a Duke University website but it was never sold commercially. <S> and I am able to ride without pain .. check it out. <S> Description of webpage: Unicam Retroflex mounts a second crank to the crank arm. <S> In a way that roughly resembles a double pendulum. <S> There is an Element at the joint of both crank arms that may be a ratcheting mechanism or simply a bearing. <A> I bought a Pedego power assist tricycle. <S> I have 80 degrees range of motion in a leg with artificial femur. <S> Pedals are out in front more. <S> $2800.00 but changed my life! <A> Try a pendulum swing crank by Hase. <S> Absolutely brilliant.
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The idea is to such the pedal at an adjustable crack length without replacing the cranks. I purchased a Specialized Low-Entry Roll Sport bicycle and added the pendulum crank solution from Europe
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what is the most secure bicycle combination lock? Which bicycle lock that is a combination lock (with a code instead of keys) is the most secure device available on the market? Of course everything can be broken, and its only a matter of time, but for which combination lock the time to crack it by a potential thief is the highest, without using tools that a thief is very unlikely to use on the street. Considering that price and weight are not an issue. The only absolute requirement is that its a keyless lock. Is there anything that has an exceptionally good proven track record, preferably something that is being sold for quite some time already with no major vulnerabilities found? Clarification: as a lot of people instead of applying common sense, made fun of me and spammed the answers with useless non-information, let me define terms used in the question: The term "price is not an issue" is to be understood as "Price of the lock up to a single fee of 200 EUR (approx. 250 USD) is acceptable. The term "weight is not an issue" is to be understood as "Mass of the lock up to 3 kg (approx. 6.6 pounds) is acceptable. <Q> I think ABUS is one of the most respectable, perhaps THE most respectable bike-lock manufacturer around. <S> They have even some numbered levels of protection, the higher the level the higher the protection, even agains powertools (because of special steel alloys, and such). <S> They have some combination padlocks, which seem very interesting. <S> Take a look at these 4-digit <S> (ten thousand possible combinations): <S> Reinforced padlock Chain-lock with combination and key Cable-style lock Linkage style <S> (this one is awesome) <S> There are other options in their site, but I think these are the most robust combination ones. <S> EDIT: just to complement <S> , I think combination locks are a good option for errands, but not for whole-day or part-day parking out of sight. <S> I suppose the OP intends to do so, since he mentions "in the street" and "keyless". <S> For example, I use to go to the supermarket by bike, and I think a combination would probably demand time enough to open so that someone wouldn't risk an opportunistic theft. <S> A combination one would be an invitation for the thief to earn a bike AND a keyless lock "combo". <S> As a final thought: does anyone go out without his own home keys? <S> Would a lock key be too much to put together in the home keyring? <S> Well, just a thought! <S> Hope this helps! <A> No combination lock provides a high enough level of protection to warrant being tested as a valid means of security. <S> Speaking from experience, I have never seen one that a decent pair of bolt cutters couldn't get through in less than 15 seconds. <S> I'm not a bike thief. <S> I volunteer at a bike co-op that takes donated bikes and refurbishes them for sale; these often have old locks on the frame for which the combination has been forgotten. <S> You'll find some lock comparisons online where they test the security of different locks against one another. <S> However, these generally focus on mid to high-range locks, which always have keys. <S> There isn't much point testing out the low-end combo locks. <S> However, since you've said that price and weight aren't an issue, but that a combination and security are the most important features, I recommend you keep your bike in a large safe. <A> Kryptonite sell this combination U-lock which they rate as 6/10 "Moderate Security". <S> KryptoLok Combo <S> It should be good enough for most circumstances. <A> I've actually been toying with the idea of making my own bike lock for quite a while. <S> THe problem with the big chains as I shown is that they are really mostly way too long, making them heavier than necessary. <S> I would think that 18 inches (or maybe even 12 inches) would be sufficient to get the lock around the frame and back tire and lock it to the bike rack. <S> The security chains really are quite difficult to break, even with a big pair of bolt cutters, and there are shrouded padlocks which don't really provide any place where the bolt cutters could even be used.
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I would say that you might have some luck pairing up an industrial level combination lock with a big security chain . Now for parking at, for example, a train station full of annonimous bikes (none of these parkings in my city, yet), I'd go with the keyed ones, no doubt.
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Does seat post suspension reduce efficiency? I have a hybrid bike with front and seat post suspension. It's easy to see how front suspension reduces pedaling efficiency by using some of the power for compressing the shocks, so I keep it locked on paved roads. In situations where performance is more important than comfort, does a suspended seat post cause any harm to end results? I.e. would I get better times / speeds with a rigid saddle post? <Q> Seat post suspension is not designed for efficiency. <S> It is designed to add comfort to a hard tail mountain bike frame. <S> There are only a few really good suspension seat posts, and they are rarely used on hybrid bikes. <S> Almost always, you will find that the suspension post on a basic hybrid is just a spring in a tube. <S> Occasionally, they add the ability to pre-load the spring to make it feel stiffer, and that is a slightly better option. <S> On that type of suspension post, you affect your efficiency when the post is active because your seat height will change as you ride, and as the post compresses. <S> This will change your position and leverage, and usually, not for the better. <S> It will detract from the amount of power you are getting out of the system, while still using the same or more energy to put in that power. <S> A true full suspension will account for most of these factors, and is therefore generally a more efficient choice, but weight, cost, and designed riding style for a bike will also affect the efficiency. <S> To directly answer your question, yes, you would be more efficient without a suspension seat post, assuming all else was equal. <S> However, most hybrids are lacking in any number of areas in regards to efficiency, and you may not feel the actual difference in efficiency from the seat post given the bike you are riding. <A> The negative side occurs, however, if the suspension absorbs energy as the pressure changes as you pedal -- ie, it goes up and down with each pedal stroke. <S> Again, in theory, a seatpost is least likely, of all suspension types, to "go negative", since when you're pedaling hard most of your weight is supported by your legs, not the post. <S> But the devil is in the details, and it's hard to predict what happens in "real life". <S> I suspect that to some degree the simple fact that your seat height is constantly changing can "throw off" your stroke -- not absorb energy per se, but make you less able to produce energy efficiently. <A> In asking, you should specify whether you use cleats or not. <S> When riding with cleats, and while sitting, you - at least I - use the seat post as counter leverage. <S> In these cases, you will put part of you work into the seat post's damping. <S> Without cleats, I see little proof that damping, probably accompanied by variation in position and corresponding levers, necessarily costs more energy. <S> If this is the case, I like to see at which position in the cycling movement where this is the case. <A> A doctor from the German Sports University Cologne made some tests in laboratory and realized the suspension helps. <S> A study was made at Saint Cloud State University, this time it was off-road. <S> The result answers your question. <S> Riding a front suspension bicycle resulted in faster finishing times in a cross country time trial versus a rigid bike in a second part of the study You can read more about this two studies here . <S> One relevant quote is: "The suspension seat post was surprisingly efficient with a 25 percent reduction."
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Note that, in theory, suspension of any sort saves energy on a rough surface, since you "burn" less energy moving your own body up and down as you go over bumps.
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Reducing saddle bounce when increasing cadence Trying up my cadence, but noticing a fair bit of saddle bounce. Few things that could be contributing. I use toeclips over cleats saddle height (thou I'm at the sweet spot of full leg extension without strain) Is there any techniques/exercises to reduce this or am I simply trying to increase my cadence too fast too soon? <Q> It is a matter of both fit (frame-geom, saddle position, stem & cranks), practice, and gearing. <S> Everyone has a max RPM after which they start "bouncing" <S> and you'll find this RPM is even lower if you're at a relatively low gear. <S> This can't be done at will in one session. <S> It is a motor skill that has to be trained by drills and observed for progress. <S> Over time your body kinematics will become more efficient and your form will improve (bouncing will start at higher and higher RPM's). <S> A cadence of 100 without bouncing is achievable by almost anyone who tries for it. <S> Elites on a track have motionless backsides at cadences of well beyond 150rpm. <A> Proper saddle height is usually said to be set where your knee is between 5-15 degrees. <S> If you are at 0 degrees but not straining, you are still locking your knee and this could cause the pedals to push you up off your seat. <S> Try dropping it an inch or so and see if it does anything to help. <S> That said, if you like to ride at full extension then do it! <S> I ride a lot more aggressive terrain and will not raise my seat past the point that both my feet are planted flat on the ground and was chastised for it being too low (by someone who almost got run over by a bus a few days later because he couldn't reach the ground). <S> Don't let someone else tell you how to ride! <A> I think the most useful measure would be to improve your spinning technique, by spinning itself. <S> That would require a lot of self-observation, and a lot of self-discipline, in order to perceive in which conditions the pogo-effect manifests itself: Which cadence; Which power-output; Which pedal/leg position cause the "jerk" and the bouncing. <S> A nice way to do that without too much rocket science is to add some cushioning to your ride for some time, be it baloon tires, suspension fork, suspension post, soft-sprung saddle, and the like. <S> Train with one of these for a while, until you're satisfied. <S> I think suspension-seatpost is the most direct and cost-effective choice for this case. <S> With one of these "devices", the bouncing effect would be increased a lot, and you will be forced to discipline your rhythm so that the bouncing stops or at least gets diminished. <S> I had a lot of unintentional training with that during my mountain-bike years, in a time suspension forks didn't have lockout systems. <S> I think it worked fine, and if you do it consciously, perhaps it works even better. <S> Hope this helps.
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Assuming the bike fits you properly, raising your max RPM is simply a matter of practice. Informally you can try forcing yourself to ride at lower gears than you're used to.
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Trick or tool to help line up 48 splined crank arms Besides eyeballing it and comparing the line to the seat tube, are there any tricks to getting 48 splined crank arms perfectly aligned? I must have spent a solid 15 minutes looking at them from every angle until I was satisfied. <Q> If your bearings are decent, just take the non-drive pedal off and let the pedal weight pull the other side down, or slowly let it fall from slightly off center. <S> This is how I could tell with my Bullseye cranks, besides hopping on and trying to pedal it. <S> If that doesn't work then I'd try tying a heavy weight or looping a paint can around one of the pedals close to the crank. <S> You're looking for a 7.5 degree distance, <S> so on 185mm cranks that's 24mm or nearly and inch of diference between splines. <S> Weighting the opposite side enough should make it clear. <S> I then took some nail polish and marked both the crank and axle <S> so I didn't have to play this game again. <A> Some BMX cranks are keyed, so that they will fit only one way. <S> If yours is not keyed, then, no, there is no better way to line it up than to do it by eye. <S> If you want to double check it, take a plumb bob, and place it across the center of the pedal threads on one crank. <S> If the string follows the center of the crank arms, you are lined up. <S> As pointed out by @Ehryk , the difference is pretty visually noticeable. <S> Probably not worth all the effort involved here, since you see an almost 1 inch variation by eye easily. <A> Besides the given suggestion(s), another possibility (although a bit overkill) could be to take a picture from afar (5m+), with the camera aligned to the bottom bracket axis, and analyze the alignment on the zoomed image, via eyeballing or some drawing/viewing program. <A> I would try using trial-and-error. <S> First I'd attach one crank arm and get the nut finger tight. <S> Then I'd put the second on where I thought it should be, take it off and put it on one tooth away from that, then try again in the other direction. <S> I can't help but imagine that (as Ehryk mentioned) when it's wrong, it would be very obviously wrong.
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Turn the crank until the string lines up with the other pedals' thread center. Once I was satisfied with that, I'd line up one of the arms with the seat post or the down tube, take a few steps back, and eyeball it.
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Are there tugnuts made to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts? Are there tugnuts meant to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts such as those on a Surly Cross Check, All City Space Horse, or Salsa Cassaroll which won't block rack and fender bosses and keep wheel from sliding forward during heavy pedaling or skid stopping on fixed gear setups? <Q> I was able to use a surly tuggnut tensioner with my cross check frame with semi-horizontal, forward facing dropouts. <S> No slipping after that. <S> The end of the tensioner bolt bolt nested in the opening on the rear of the dropout where the long wheel positioner bolt would be installed. <S> It would likely work on most bikes with this style of semi-horizontal dropout. <S> Looks like this: <S> It's not going to get in the way of rack and fender mounts like the tuggnut. <S> From surly's site: Hurdy Gurdy is another nifty device that keeps a rear wheel from slipping forward in the dropout under pedal load. <S> It’s designed for our Cross-Check’s semi-horizontal front-loading dropouts, and will also work on many other similar dropouts. <S> Hurdy gurdy looks like this: <A> You can use a BMX chain tensioner, like this one , reversed, on some dropouts, but you will need to find one that works with your particular frame and dropout. <S> There is nothing designed for that purpose which I am aware of. <S> However, If you are using proper torque, and proper track nuts, or nuts with washers, your wheel should not move in the dropout, with or without a tensioner. <S> Tensioners are designed to make it easier to align the wheel, and get proper tension on the chain, not to keep the wheel from slipping in the dropout. <A> Batavus Is what I used for forward facing horizontal dropouts with a Shimano Nexus hub. <S> Perfect. <S> As somebody said, you shouldn't really need them. <S> But it makes getting chain tension and alignment a lot easier. <S> And as my bike tech said, you effectively have a pair of stainless steel washers.
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The newer Surly Hurdy Gurdy chain tensioner is actually designed with the cross check dropout in mind (and should work with most semi horizontal dropouts). If your wheel is slipping in the dropout, then there is something else wrong, in my opinion.
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How do I clean the inside of a freehub? I didn't know any better and I let degreaser drip into the freewheel body of my Shimano FH-RM65 . Now it makes a terrible retching noise when it rotates. How do I clean the inside of this thing? I'm afraid to put load on it until it sounds quiet and happy again. <Q> That particular Shimano freehub can be disassembled, but it is quite a job to get it back together afterward. <S> There are around 80 2mm bearings in two different locations in the freehub, and a skilled and practiced mechanic has roughly a 60% chance of opening without losing parts, and successfully getting it back together. <S> It's called a Freehub Buddy . <S> The photo shows the Freehub buddy, next to a freehub with a cutaway so you can see the rows of bearings I mentioned earlier, a tube of soup lube, and 2 new reusable seals. <S> It's made by Morningstar tools , and works very well. <S> You will also need the proper lubricant , and new exterior seals for the freehub. <S> Both can be purchased from Morningstar tools as well. <S> The other option is to simply replace the freehub, which should be readily available at your LBS, for about $20. <S> I hope that helps. <A> I too have made this blunder. <S> The freehub buddy does work, but isn't in my toolbox. <S> The simplest thing I do is to first have the body mounted on the wheel. <S> Be sure that one of the two slits in the body is at the six o'clock position. <S> I then add just enough automatic transmission fluid (atf) to the body so that it covers up to the axle hole. <S> I spin the outer body to help move the atf around and let it sit so it can soak through the whole. <S> Repeat until things smooth out. <S> the new atf acts to lubricate and neutralize any degreaser left. <S> It may leak a bit at the rear of the hub, so have some paper towels stuffed under it to catch the errant drop. <S> I have hubs that are a decade old <S> and I keep them alive doing this. <S> Also, buy the cheapest ATF you can find. <S> Don't waste your money on synthetics. <S> Old fashion ATF is fine. <A> With freehub body attached, but axle and cones removed, I add a few drops of Bones "Speed Cream", hold the wheel by the freehub so the oil will flow down into it, and spin the wheel. <S> 4-6 drops is enough. <S> It is so effective the wheel will spin for 2-3 minutes with just a hand-spin. <S> BTW, you can buy the freehub body as a separate part, which is a great way to save a wheel/hub if the drive-side bearing cup pits or rusts. <S> The new freehub body will contain a new cup for the drive-side wheel bearing.
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The good news is, there is a tool to lubricate the inside of a freehub, without disassembling it. There is no easy way to remove the old lube.
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Using hub-dynamo for both lights and charging, with priority on lighting I currently have a Supernova E3 Pro powered by a Shimano hub generator, and I would like to add the ability to charge USB-powered gadgets. My main concern, however, is that simply wiring up a charger in parallel to the lights would result in dimmer lighting at slower speeds (I already notice a decrease in brightness going up a steep hill when I'm tired). Is there any way to wire things up so that the lights get priority, and charging only occurs when there is excess power available? Perhaps by using some circuit that would only provide power to the charger when the dynamo voltage exceeds a certain point? <Q> I suspect you will find that most of the chargers that run off hub dynamos take this into account. <S> For example, http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/reecharge-power-pack in the (pdf) manual say: <S> The ReeCharge is charging when the green light on the side of the ReeCharge is lit. <S> NOTE: <S> The green light is only on when the wheel rotates fast enough to provide the ReeCharge with a current for charging. <S> In your position I would buy one of the charging setups and see how it works in practice. <S> If there's a problem, you will need to add a voltage sensing switch. <S> Either way, you need to buy the charger <S> so there's no harm buying it. <S> A voltage sensing switch is easy enough to make, either using a zener diode or just a voltage divider into the gate of a transistor. <S> http://www.instructables.com/id/Voltage-Controlled-Switch-1/ is one example (but without a bigger transistor on the output that will not handle the current your charger uses). <S> I would go with the simpler approach of buying a power transistor that can handle the 500mA your dynamo puts out, the 15V or so maximum it's likely to put out. <S> Use a variable resistor to work out what voltage divider ratio I need to make it work, then substitute a pair of resistors in the final version. <S> That's 3 components and it should be easy enough to put them in heat-shrink or epoxy to make them weatherproof. <S> You'll probably pay as much for the connectors as the components :) <A> The easiest way would be to use a low-dropout voltage regulator. <S> You SHOULD regulate the voltage to a stable 5 volts anyway, because you can hurt some electronics by providing them lower voltage than the expected 5. <S> That being said, you can't just go get any old voltage regulator, because most have a dropout voltage of 2v - 2.5v above their target, meaning they would require 7v to 7.5v to give you a stable 5v. <S> The solution is a LDO, Low Dropout Voltage Regulator. <S> The KA278 2A regulator is more than enough, and you don't connect anything to the adjustment pin to get a stable 5v. <S> They dropout at 5.5v, meaning they don't put out any power when the voltage is lower than this. <S> The Shimano DH-3N70 provides a nominal 6v, so you'd only be providing USB power at just under nomial voltage. <S> Here's a link to 4 for about $5 on eBay . <S> This all being said, you may not end up providing that much charge from this setup, so be forewarned if your electronics don't seem to benefit from this setup. <S> However, I'd strongly advise against hooking it directly either, some electronics are easily fried by throwing variable voltages through their USB (5v) charging port. <S> If your light has an off switch, then by switching the light off you can make sure you get charging when you want it. <S> Also, be advised that most phones require between 500mA and 1A (iPhones won't charge with less than 1A), which at 5V = 5 Watts of power. <S> Your dynamo only puts out 3 Watts of power, and at 6V = 0.5A. <S> 0.5A <S> * 5V = 2.5 Watts of effective 5V output, so don't be expecting to charge your iPhone even with the light off. <S> Most Androids take between 500mA and 900mA, but will allow the charging to occur slower with less wattage, where iPhones will not charge at all. <A> http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-iq2-luxos.html Light with an integrated USB socket for charging, but it's not clear from reviews how the USB charger and light will interact when using the output at the same time as the light once the cache battery is drained. <S> http://www.bumm.de/produkte/e-werk-usb-werk/usb-werk.html (warns that light output will be reduced while charging) <S> http://www.cycletourer.co.uk/cycletouring/electrogadgets.shtml More options on http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2012/03/list-of-hub-dynamo-power-supplies-for-usb-devices/ (but mostly chargers that can be used when not running a light). <A> I have the cycle2charge.de charger and do not notice reduced light output while charging (though I have not tested this thoroughly). <S> Some chargers also have a built-in switch which will cause either the light or the charger to be powered. <S> Consider getting one of those if the amount of light available is a concern. <A> Six years later, it sounds like the new Plug5 Plus has what I'm looking for. <S> According to the product info, it will automatically give priority to the lights if they're on, and will negotiate charging speed with the device based on how much power is available.
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I do, however, notice that having the lights on limits the current available for charging – I would say the charger has the logic you are looking for.
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Do cassettes and chains need to be replaced at the same time? Someone recently told me that if I replace my cassette I need to replace my chain (and vice versa) so that they wear evenly. Is this true? And, can anyone elaborate on the reasoning for this a bit more? Why is it important for them to wear evenly? Why does this not apply to the front chainring? Or does it? <Q> You may need to change your cassette with your chain due to damage, but only if your bike has missed out on some previous maintenance. <S> Your chain is a consumable component on your bike. <S> For most people, 1200-1500 kilometers on a chain is a safe distance to ride it before it stretches enough to damage the cassette or chain rings. <S> If you treat changing your chain like changing the oil in your car, and just do it based on mileage, regardless of the actual wear on the chain, then you can continue to use the same cassette through (on average) 5 chain swaps. <S> The chain rings, at least a good quality set, are thicker metal, with a larger diameter, so they don't wear as quickly. <S> Usually, I get 10 chain swaps before I need to change the chain rings. <S> But they will eventually need to be changed as well. <S> I hope that helps. <A> You should always install a new chain (or have one that's pretty new already) when you install a new cassette. <S> But you can go through 5 or so chains on a single cassette. <A> A previous answer from mine to a similar question can be seen here: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7880/2355 <S> But the essence is this: The chain wears faster, and it causes the wear of the other components (cog and chainring); The chain wears because there is friction between pins and inner plates, so the actual distance between pins increases due to lost material in the contact zone. <S> Thus, the longer chain starts to climb the teeth on the gears, so that their tooth becomes ramped ("shark tooth"); Slightly worn chainrings rarely skip with new chains, and they end up "matching" the pitch of the new chain again. <S> Slightly worn cogs might sometimes skip to the point <S> it is very difficult to get mileage on them (pedalling very lightly) so that they recover. <S> Also, currently most rings are aluminum, which is softer than the steel in the cogs. <S> Hope <S> this helps.
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If you ride one chain beyond the point of wear, it will damage both cassette and chain rings to different degrees.
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Can a road bike's rear derailleur be used for either a 9 speed cassette or 10 speed cassette? I currently have a 9 speed 11-25T cassette on my road bike. I'm thinking about switching to a different cassette with more teeth on the climbing gear. The cassette I'm currently look at is a Shimano CS-5700 10 Speed Cassette. Can I swap my cassette from 9 speed to 10 speed without swapping my rear derailleur? Is a 10 speed cassette wider than a 9 speed cassette or is the spacing between the gears wider? Do I just need to adjust the wire tension in order to alter how much the derailleur moves when shifting in order to accommodate for the difference in spacing? <Q> The spacing between 9 speed and 10 speed is controlled at the shift lever. <S> A 10 speed rear dérailleur will work with a 9 or 10 speed cassette and shifter. <S> A 9 speed rear dérailleur is not compatible with 10 speed. <S> That does not mean it will not physically work, only that the shifting performance will be slow, you may drop gears unexpectedly, or have the chain skip unexpectedly. <S> Long story short, 10 speed should be 10 speed all the way throughout your bike for it to work consistently and properly. <S> Cable tension has nothing to do with cog spacing. <S> That is designed into the shift lever. <S> It is not adjustable, except by replacing the shifter. <S> I hope that helps. <A> I just upgraded from a 9 speed to a 10 speed cassette. <S> All I changed was my shifters and my chain. <S> It's the shifters that determine how much the derailleur moves. <S> The big companies want you to spend money in upgrading everything but that is not needed. <S> I did this on my 2011 Giant Defy that was outfitted with Tiagra group set. <S> I changed the shifters to 10 speed 105, 105 10 speed cassette, and chain. <S> Set it up and it indexed perfectly with the Tiagra 9 speed derailleur. <A> After a decade of riding, I rebuilt my bike, which came with Ultegra 9-speed shifters and derailleurs. <S> I replaced some parts, including the shifters. <S> No new 9-speed shifters were available, so put on 10-speed Ultegras. <S> I kept the 9-speed rear derailleur in place. <S> I took off the 9-speed cassette, put on a 10-speed cassette, and started riding. <S> Worked fine — no adjustment needed! <S> Go figure. <S> I've not had any problems in several years and many miles on this hybrid arrangement. <A> Since 2000, I've been running an XTR long cage rear derailleur on my road bike is STI 105 shifters. <S> I gearing is 11-34 <S> (the max that the derailleur will handle). <S> I'm also running a triple on the front, so I have to be aware of my gears... <S> 53 front, I only use the 11 and four more. <S> Middle, all of the gears... 30, only the lowest gears... <S> 34 down four <S> ... works for me... <A> The derailleur itself does not have any say on how many sprockets you can use or the distance between them, it is only limited by how close or how far away from the dropout it can get. <S> For the most part you could probably use the same derailleur, but you might need to adjust the high and low limiting screws. <S> The real problem is with the shifter. <S> Back in the old days, they only had friction shifters where you, the rider, had to fine tune the location of the derailleur by yourself. <S> If you have that kind of shifter there is no problem. <S> If you have a modern indexing style shifter where you just click a button <S> and it jumps to the location for you <S> then you might have to do a bit of tweaking or totally replace the shifter. <S> Adjusting the cable only fine tunes the alignment of the derailleur to the sprocket and has almost nothing to do with the number of sprockets you can use. <S> But, before you do anything, check to see if your rear forks are wide enough to take an extra sprocket. <S> I would take it into a bike shop and let them take a look at it. <S> If they are worth buying from, they will give you some straight advice. <A> The ten speed cassette is not as wide as the nine speed so you do not need a new wheel. <S> You may need a spacer to insure the ten speed cassette can be tightened properly.
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The pulleys on a 10 speed dérailleur are narrower, and a 10 speed chain will not rest correctly on the jockey pulleys of a 9 speed dérailleur. You might even need to change the rear wheel altogether. The width of the chain and the cogs is the biggest issue.
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What's a good second lock option for around the frame and wheel? I've seen a few people, specially bike messengers that use a main lock to secure their bike to a post/fence/etc. but also have a second smaller one to lock the other wheel around the frame. Which is a good option for this second lock? <Q> You have some options: 1) <S> Ulock the frame and use a cable like the kryptoflex http://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&scid=1001&pid=1124 2) <S> Go european and get a ring lock for one of the wheels and secure the other with the ulock. <S> I'm not sure if you can mount a ring lock on the front, so you would probably need to secure the front with the ulock. <S> https://www.amsterdambikesusa.com/products-page/locks/axa-defender-rl-black/ <S> I tend to prefer to use set of good security skewers with a ulock mostly for the convenience of carrying less stuff. <S> Allen key skewers are also available but don't provide as much protection as specially keyed skewers like pitlocks. <A> Let me throw out my "modified" Sheldon Brown method: http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/ <A> Generally speaking, you can lock your bike and both wheels with just a small U-lock and a cable. <S> Start by locking your bike according to Sheldon's strategy (through the part of the rear rim that's inside the rear triangle). <S> Then loop the cable around your front wheel, hooking both ends around the U-lock. <A> I use a lock from http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/ instead of having a Quick Release: so the wheels are already locked to the bike, and I needn't carry a secondary lock. <A> I would suggest the Abus Granit Futura 64 Mini Shackle Bicycle U Lock - 150mm . <S> It's lighter than most U locks with a "11 Level" security.
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Ulock the frame and use security skewers like pitlocks or hublox http://www.pitlock.com/ http://www.deltacycle.com/Hublox-Security-Skewers 3) Buy another ulock and double lock your bike 4)
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Can someone give me a short description and comparison of the different road cycling pedal / shoe systems? I am looking at buying a pedal/shoe system as the clips and straps I am using are hurting my feet again. It's been a long time since I have bought a road pedal / shoe system, and I have forgotten the differences between SPDs, Look pedals and all the others. Can someone give a short comparison of each pedal system with pros and cons of each? My usage is/will be mainly city street cycling and then road cycling (recreation, not racing). I'd prefer if people would give the pros and cons of each and not their opinion on the "pedal system war". :) However, "I use them because I find XYZ and it helps in ABC ways" is very useful. <Q> First up, I'd strongly recommend switching to clipless pedals. <S> I had the same discomfort issues you're describing with normal shoes and toeclips and find clipless pedal so much more comfortable and secure (therefore safer). <S> When comparing and evaluating clipless pedal systems, some of the more important attributes are: Float - <S> This is the property where the foot can swivel on the pedal while clipped in. <S> Some pedals allow the float to be adjusted independently of the tightness, while other pedals have only a single adjustment for both. <S> Also, see this answer . <S> Ease of entry - Some pedals require the pedal and cleat to be lined up carefully before the cleat can clip in. <S> Others are orientation agnostic and a good stomp is usually enough to engage the cleat. <S> Compatibility with shoes <S> - Most shoes have either the 2 bolt SPD pattern (typically mountain bike and more casual style shoes) or the 3 bolt SPD-SL pattern (typically lighter and more stripped down road shoes) <S> Availability - How easy it is to buy parts, cleats and pedals. <S> Surface area - <S> The size of the contact point on the shoe. <S> This can make a difference in how evenly the pressure of the pedal is distributed to the foot. <S> Walkability - How easy it is to walk while wearing the shoe with the cleat. <S> These attributes for a number of different brands are compared in the table below. <S> Shimano SPD <S> The most common style of commuter and mountain bike pedals. <S> Shimano SPD-SL The most common form of road bike pedals <S> Look Keo <S> The first popular road bike clipless pedal. <S> Speedplay <S> The speedplay pedal is becoming more popular with many professional riders now using it. <S> One advantage is that there are no moving or wearable parts on the pedal, providing exceptional durability. <S> Time Atac <S> The Time Atac is another mountain bike style pedal Time <S> equipe Time equipe is the road shoe style Time pedals <S> Crank Bros Eggbeaters <S> There is some question about the durability of the bearings, however replacement kits are available, making these pedals more repairable. <A> I ride about 2500 miles per year, mostly road. <S> At one time, I used SPDs (Shimano SH-51), but I got knee pain from a misaligned cleat. <S> In addition, I prefer to ride with my feet slightly pronated (heels in, toes out, like a duck), so I felt like I wanted more float from my cleats. <S> SPD cleats offer around 5 degrees of float. <S> Too, the shoes I had for SPDs were not stiff enough in the sole, so I was getting hot spots on longer rides. <S> After 40-50 miles I couldn't wait to get off the bike. <S> I switched to Speedplay Zeros about 4000 miles ago, and I've been very satisfied. <S> They offer a huge amount of float relative to SPDs (15 degrees, about three times as much). <S> The cleats for Speedplays are not cheap ($40 vs. $20 for SPDs), and they do wear, but you can fight the wear to a certain extent with covers (http://www.keeponkovers.com/Product.html). <S> The Speedplay cleats need to be lubed-- <S> I use Pedro's Ice Wax-- and as a result they do pick up dirt, which, if you are careless, can make it harder to clip in. <S> I know riders who do three times the mileage that I ride, and they're good with SPDs. <S> Bottom line, all of the contact point stuff-- bars, saddle, shoes, pedals-- are a personal matter, and to a certain extent you need to find what works for you. <S> The bars, saddle, shoes, and pedals that work for me may not be so good for you. <A> (SPD-R, and Speedplay potentially are getting closer in size). <S> The classic SPD is nice on Mountain Bikes, as it hides nicely in the shoe sole (which Look most definitly does not) and you can walk in them off the bike. <S> Speedplay where most of the hardware is on the shoe, and <S> the pedal itself is simplistic is also pretty good. <S> Then there are the less common systems like Crank Brothers Egg Beaters and the like which focus on easier entry/exit. <A> The Look Keo's are very popular, but until recently they had a problem in gritty areas, because the contact edge would erode quite quickly. <S> Newer versions have a metal strip added there, so look for that if this is an issue. <S> I'm currently riding Mavic pedals very similar to the Looks, but I wouldn't recommend them. <S> The cleats wear twice as fast as my old, pre-Keo Looks, and they seem to be harder to clip into than others I have used.
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As a large rider, I personally prefer Look pedal systems, as they have one of the larger platforms to connect my feet to the pedals. Crank Bros Eggbeaters are commonly used on mountain bikes where their simple design is good at shedding mud.
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Can you buy bulk shifting/brake cable for road bikes? Is it possible to buy bulk amounts of shifting/brake cable for road bikes? It would be nice to just have a spool of wire that you run onto your frame and then cut off only as much as you need. A Google search for " bike cable spool " doesn't really result in much, surprisingly... How do bike shops deal with this? Surely they don't buy individual packs of cable for every bike do they? I know you can buy cable housing in bulk, so I was surprised when I couldn't find similar for just the cable... <Q> The problem that you'll likely run into is the stop in <S> the lever/shifter ends. <S> I'm not aware of any systems that will accept bare cable at this end: <S> Cable Ends http://c771741.r41.cf2.rackcdn.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/b/bbb-bcb-20-brakewire-bicycle-cable.jpg <S> If you wanted to pair your spool of wire with some sort of crimper (or go all out with some sort of mold/press), you could make your own - but investing $3,000 - $30,000 on some machine that melts metal on the end of the cables probably isn't worth your while. <S> I don't have much experience with bike shops <S> (I buy most everything on eBay), but I would think they have boxes of these cables packaged in bulk like this: <S> Bulk Cables http://www.descent-gear.com/images/fisher/W6052DB.jpg <A> But only bulk quantities of precut cables are available, due to the cable ends. <S> For a home user, bulk purchase like this would last for many years service needs, and generally won't save a significant amount of money. <A> Of course, though it depends what you call "bulk quantity". <S> I am going to assume home user fixing several bikes per year at most. <S> For larger quantities, you might consider asking for special discounted offers for bulk purchases, First of all, there are kits with all necessary parts to replace all of a bike's cables. <S> This one goes for under $12 with free world-wide shipping. <S> On the other hand, every LBS sells shifter cable (1BGN) brake cable (1BGN) cable housing (2BGN/meter) <S> housing end caps (0.2-0.7BGN) cable end caps (0.1BGN) <S> Those are all you need. <S> Just ask them, buy some quantity, and have it at home. <S> Also buy a dedicated bike cable and housing cutter (30BGN). <S> When there is a problem, you reach for your tools and parts bin and 10 minutes later the cables are replaced, all by yourself. <S> How do bike shops deal with this? <S> Surely they don't buy individual packs of cable for every bike do they? <S> They do. <S> All cables are manufactured to a standard length, then cut after installation to fit.
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Bulk rolls of cut to fit cable housing are available. Unless you are ordering parts for your local club, I would suggest buying what you need, when you need it, with maybe one backup set in the garage.
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What is the best web application to create cycling cue sheets for future rides I'm looking for good software to help me map out routes that I have not done before and create cue sheets and probably also printable maps. I plan to use this for my own rides, planning group rides, and maybe even alleycat routes. Things like elevation profile would be nice too. Optionally, this would also have a cue sheet viewer app available for my smartphone for reference. It doesn't have to navigate me, just show me a list of turns and notes. I don't really care if it supports upload of routes from gps units or a mobile app since I'm using it more for future rides than past rides. I rarely do the same ride twice. However, some people find this very useful. I'm willing to pay money for a good app, so free isn't neccesary, but it's nice. The key thing is it has to be easy to map out a route and generate a cue sheet and add notes. <Q> I mostly use it for tracking rides after the fact, but Ride With GPS has cue sheets and route planning based off of Google maps for their paying members. <S> From the GPS side, it works great, your mileage may vary for pre-planning. <A> They do not have an app, but I typically use the Course Creator on http://bikeroutetoaster.com/ to plan new rides. <S> It gives you elevation profile and will allow you to print the cue sheets. <S> You can export the GPX/TCX data to upload to a GPS device for on screen turn by turn cues (depending on your device). <S> Another good option for finding new routes is to use the segment explorer on http://strava.com <S> although the segments do not make a complete ride, I like to see where the popular riding routes are and have found many new locations and climbs by using the segment explorer in a new area I've not ridden before. <A> They do allow you to print routes, although I prefer to use the Android app. <A> Inkatlas lets you create printable maps in several different styles (including topo styles with terrain). <S> The maps include trails from OSM as well as any GPX tracks and waypoints you want to add. <S> Smaller PDFs (6 pages or fewer) are free. <S> Full disclosure: this is my project.
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I think mapmyride.com is pretty good for mapping out routes.
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Which parts of a wrecked bike would be OK to use or sell? A few months ago I was in an accident with a car on my way home from work (oncoming car turned left in front of me). My bike was severely damaged, the frame broke in two and the front wheel is bent enough to be un-usable. However, many of the other parts, the shifters, derailers, brakes, etc. seem to be in good condition. I'm considering using some and selling others of these parts. Excluding the obviously damaged parts, are there any other parts that shouldn't be used/sold? I wouldn't want to use/sell bad parts and I would be selling these with full disclosure on where they came from and what they went through. Basically I'd like to know if there are any parts that are typically damaged with wrecks like this and what I should look for. <Q> We have no way to know what may or may not have been damaged in the accident, especially without knowing details about the accident and the types of components on the bike. <S> Some parts you likely won't be able to determine if they're still functional until you put them on a different bike and ride on them. <S> That said, you're not going to get much by selling a lot of those components piecemeal, especially with a disclaimer that it's been in an accident. <S> My recommendation? <A> I think perhaps you could inspect some parts and, if they show no reason to worry, you could use them yourself. <S> So, I think you should NOT sell these parts: <S> Fork; Handlebar; Headset; <S> Stem. <S> These are structural parts that are vital for safety and/or are likely to be damaged in an impact like yours (looks like frontal impact?) <S> Hope this helps <A> You could sell the bike whole, for someone else to part out. <S> But I feel that the others are being a bit anal about selling the parts. <S> After all, many bikes are subjected to far more abuse than this TA produced. <S> A bicycle is a remarkably robust device. <S> Inspect the cranks to see if they've been bent. <S> If not, then the cranks and BB cart should be good. <S> If the rear wheel has remained true, then it is good. <S> And obviously, brake parts, derailers, etc, are good unless bent. <S> You should, of course, disclose that the parts are from a traffic-damaged bicycle. <S> And I would agree with the others that the amount you get may not be worth the effort. <S> (You might consider instead donating the bike to a local bikes-for-kids group that would strip it for parts.) <S> (Or you could repair the bike. <S> The frame can actually be repaired, if what's in the picture is the worst of it, and if the front wheel is not totally tacoed it can likely be trued to a substantial degree (though probably not perfect). <S> Of course, it wouldn't really be worth the effort, but it would be a challenging "project".) <A> Get a new frame and front wheel, and build it up yourself for "fun". <S> Then sell it on or keep as a spare/winter bike. <A> I would say that apart from frame, handlebar, fork and stem, seatpost (you never know, and it is quite painful if it snaps halfway) <S> you can save many things, like the drivetrain, brakes. <S> Front wheel should not be used anymore, but you can keep to play around with fun project (i.e. to build a one-wheel cargo trailer or other upcycling stuff). <S> The fork, even if straight, must not be used again on a bicycle, but may be used to build a wheel aligner. <S> If you throw it away, please carefully destroy it (hammer it, break it, find your way): it should be evident and impossible to be repaired ... <S> you never know who will scavenge the rubbish bin.
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The frame (obviously), the front wheel, the fork, and the headset should be tossed (though the front wheel hub may be salvageable). Scrap the bike for parts, and keep them around as spares for your next bike. The handlebar and stem, unless visibly bent/damaged, should be safe. But I think it would be unfair to sell some of the parts, "by definition". Having a good supply of used parts on hand can be incredibly useful.
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Does spin class prepare you for a long bike ride? I need to train for an upcoming bike ride and i wanted to see if attending a spin class 1-2 times a week (45 min course) would be appropriate way to prepare for a long bike ride (50 - 75 miles) <Q> Regular aerobic exercise is definitely of value for preparing for a big ride. <S> Spin is a good preparation in conjunction with some outdoor rides, but it is not a substitute for riding your bike on the road. <S> The feel of the bike, the balance, the momentum, and the environmental and traffic factors will have an effect on your fitness as well, some of which may be purely mental. <S> If you're riding 50 miles, you need to plan to be on the bike for 3-5 hours when you do the actual ride. <S> Build up to where you can handle 3 hours on the bike easily, and you'll do fine. <A> Yes and no. <S> Spin classes do help with overall aerobic fitness. <S> There are shortcomings: the first thought occurring to me is "bike handling". <S> You can do spin classes blindfolded. <S> An actual ride means controlling the bike in various situations. <S> Secondly in a spin class, the "rider" determines the difficulty. <S> Actually riding, the difficulty is determined by the environment. <S> The upshot is that spin classes are good for aerobic fitness but other skills require different practice. <S> Spin workouts in general? <S> A good thing. <S> I do spin workouts during the dark, wet, and cold Pacific NW winters. <S> Spin workouts do wonders for your cardiovascular endurance. <S> So, you have that covered. <S> However, spin workouts generally last 45 minutes to an hour. <S> A long ride is typically longer than that, so little to no help. <S> Another thing in spin workouts is that the instructor will have you increase the resistance for "hills"; believe me, it never matches reality unless you really ramp up the resistance. <S> Another thing, is that spin instructors often don't have actual experience in riding a real bike on real terrain; so not sure that it helps unless the spin instructor is actually a cyclist. <S> Take away? <S> Usually ramp things up; of course depending on the spin instructor. <S> ...Spin "class" is NOT a "class"...it's a workout... <A> In my experience the saddles on gym spin bikes are often a little more plush than a typical "real" bike saddle. <S> Thus, one part of your body that you will never train, no matter how many spin classes you attend, is your butt's ability to tolerate a bike saddle for 50-75 miles. <S> I believe the only way to train your butt to sit without significant discomfort on a real bike saddle for 50-75 miles is to sit on a real bike saddle for a significant number of miles. <S> Several times. <S> I took a coworker on an easy, flat 25-mile route, and he was not accustomed to being on a bike saddle for that long. <S> By the time we got back, he was effectively riding on one cheek, because the saddle was paining him so. <S> His speed had slowed to a crawl. <A> If you don't have much experience on the bike, in a long event, be ready for pain in your hands, wrists, shoulders, back, and bottom. <S> Especially if your bike fit isn't perfect. <S> I ride 50-100mi per week (mostly road, some mountain), and my first spin class was really hard for me. <S> I think the reverse is true as well; a good spinner may find that actual road riding is more dynamic and challenging. <A> Spinning is fine if it's a long session but no substitute because your 100Km race is an endurance test for your muscles. <S> So as others have said hydration is more important than your time. <S> Do the spinning but make sure you've ridden the 100KM on the real bike at least once before you do your trip. <S> Just so you'll know what's coming. <S> Hope you enjoy it! <A> For anyone training for a big bike ride I would recommend the following. <S> Go out once a week and do a long ride increasing the distance by ten per cent a week. <S> Do a shorter ride during the week, and if you can fit some interval training in on a spin bike that really helps with stamina. <S> A pyramid climb with some interval sessions straight after. <S> After one of your training sessions preferably the longer ride I did some squats, lunges and single leg deadlifts. <S> This really helped my climbing ability. <S> All the hills I dreaded became mere blips, not just physically but visually. <S> I did the ride London and a ride in France which was shorter than the London one but hilly. <A> its appropriate. <S> i do spinning every winter. <S> great training, really pushes me. <S> 50-70 miles is not that long if you're on a racing bike. <S> as others said: dont expect it to be too comfortable tho. <S> cycling is an endurance sport, after all. <S> I'd say do some riding too. <S> it's almost summer in the northern half of the world. <S> perfect time for some relaxed riding. <S> if you dont like that <S> , then why even bother going to the event? <S> if you do like it, then youll probably enjoy it more than sweating in some overheated gym class. <S> its also good (pleasant and safe) to be familiar with your bike and riding, cornering etc when you ride in big groups.
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If time is limited, try spin 2-3 days a week, and build up your endurance, but also do at least one longer outdoor ride each week. Try to get as many road rides in as possible. you'll do fine as long as its not a competitive event and you can ride your own pace.
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How are tire sizes measured? I tried getting a good measurement with my caliper, but the flexibility of the tire doesn't help much. Let's say I have a 26"x2.125" tire. I know this fits on an ISO 559mm bead seat diameter rim, and 26" = 660.4mm. 26": The OD of the tire including the tread? The OD of the tire excluding the tread? When aired up or deflated? Means it fits a 559mm ISO BSD None of the above? 2.125": Width of tread? Width of sidewall? Inflated or deflated? Essentially, I'm converting the tire sizes to "height off rim in mm" and drawing them with a wheel in a web application, so I need to know how "tire size" translates to this measurement. I'm somewhat assuming that the fractional sizes can be converted to the same measurement, but I'm aware that they have certain differences - so any help there would be of value as well. Sheldon Brown's Website has been helpful, but still leaves me with the questions above. <Q> First Number = <S> Nominal Outer Diameter of tire, including tread. <S> Second Number / Letter = <S> Nominal width of tire at the start of the tread. <S> Tire size is determined by the outside diameter of the tire, as regards the 26 inch or 700c number. <S> The 2.125 inch number is the nominal width of the tire at the point where the tread starts. <S> These are nominal measurements, though, and there is no universal standard applied consistently other than bead diameter. <S> 700c x 23 tires from Schwalbe will measure 28mm in width, and about 5 mm extra in diameter. <S> From Conti, its about 24mm and 1-2mm extra. <S> There is no stadard for point of measurement. <S> It is left to the manufacturer to decide, even before the marketing department gets involved. <A> The only reliable tire number is the E.T.R.T.O number that is required by EU law. <S> It's on every tire made in the last 10 years or so. <S> Anything else on the tire is often just marketing, in particular you cannot trust the widths that tire manufacturers provide in English units. <S> One manufacturers 2.4 is a 2.125 from a different manufacturer. <S> However, they will have the same ETRTO code since that is based on the actual physical measurements of the tire. <S> It does not take tread height into account, but that's lost in the noise. <S> It's not perfect, but there's no better guess you can make w/o measuring each tire on each rim. <S> For example: 700C originally meant a wheel/tire with a 700mm diameter when installed and inflated. <S> Since the rim is 622mm, that meant the tires added 78mm to the wheel or were roughly 39mm in height above the rim. <S> Makes sense since C was the "fat tire" version of the various 700mm wheels. <S> The old A, B, C model is making a comeback in the MTB world. <S> You can get 26,27.5 and 29'er wheels that are nearly the same diameter by choosing the right mix and match of tires. <A> The "26" is for historical reasons. <S> Ignore it as a measurement; it is just a name. <S> Early on, tires were designated by overall diameter not by rim size. <S> Perhaps rims were destroyed as often as tires, and people tended to replace whole wheels. <S> With this measurement system you would have a good idea about frame clearance and stand-over height, at the expense of clarity about the tire-rim compatibility. <S> It's not just the inches. <S> Metric wheels did this too. <S> If you look at the 700 series there used to be 700A, 700B, 700C, and 700D. <S> A was the narrowest, D the widest. <S> As you would expect, if they all had the same outer diameter, A is the rim largest rim with a diameter of 642mm, <S> 700C is near the middle with <S> 622mm and 700D were originally balloony tires with a rim size of 587mm. <S> 29ers are the new name for 700C. 700mm works out to a little over 27.5 inches, yet the "27.5" inch tires are the same rim diameter as the 650B.
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As a reasonable first approximation, you can take the width part of the ETRTO codeas the height of the tire above the diameter part of the ETRTO code when inflated. Any diameter numbers other than the bead seat diameter are just names, not measurements.
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How do I make my pannier bag less smelly? Because I ride my bike everywhere, my pannier bags (Ortlieb Back Roller Classic) carry all kinds of cargo, from wrapped-up fish-and-chips to damp swimming and gym kit. I store them open whenever I can, so they're not as ripe as you might think, but they've still developed a distinct odour over time. What's the best way to wipe down the inside and leave them smelling like new again? Do you have any recommendations for a particular cleaner that won't damage the waterproofing, or a special technique that gets rid of the bad smells? <Q> I know it sounds too simple, but these bags are made to be cleaned (assuming yours is unlined. <S> If it's lined, you'll never get it out). <S> First, try dish soap and water. <S> Citrus scents seem to cut the smell best, but that may be a personal preference. <S> If that is not enough, then the next best option is to use a diluted solution of something like Pine Sol or other bath, kitchen and tile cleaner. <S> I've used Pine Sol in a 1:4 ratio with water, and it did the job that dish soap wouldn't. <S> Another thing to consider <S> : Seal the products you are carrying better. <S> Don't take fish just wrapped in newspaper like <S> the fish market gives them to you. <S> For Gym clothes, pack them in vacuum storage bags like you get for packing luggage tightly. <S> Push the air out of the bag, and it will keep the nasty sealed in well enough to keep your bag form smelling. <S> They come large enough to put most anything that will fit in your panniers or messenger bag, (even newspaper wrapped fish), and they don't take up much room when empty. <A> If the material seems unwashable try filling a thin sock or pantyhose with baking soda/sodium bicarbonate and dust the inside with it. <S> Open the flap and tap the sock against the interior just hard enough to leave some of the powder over the entire interior. <S> Let it sit overnight and vacum out any residue. <S> You can leave the sock in the pannier so it will continue to absorb odors or try some charcoal in a small cloth pouch. <S> Charcoal can be the kind used for grilling but make sure it is lump charcoal without any self ignitor added. <A> I like the baking soda comment. <S> Depending on your humidity, you might be developing a mildew smell, which can also develop in cycling jackets if you ride in the rain frequently, too. <S> If you have a warm sunny day, and can turn the bags inside out, sunning them can also be effective. <S> Soaking in a saline and vinegar solution can cut mildew solution. <S> You can add garden herbs like sage or rosemary leaves. <S> If this is not effective, I would move up to some Simple Green solution next. <S> If those solutions are ineffective, you could also trest a small section of the bag with a TSP (trisodium phosphate). <S> TSP is harsh so use gloves, safety glasses. <S> This is probably safer than washing with a bleach solution, but doing a test on a section to determine if how it treats your material. <A> I have cloth panniers with a piece of stiff plastic riveted to the inside back wall so turning them inside out isn't an option for cleaning. <S> Hung outside to dry and then brought them inside for the remaining dry time using a floor fan to air dry them. <S> Once dry, the final step was to battle the remaining odor of the bags. <S> Taking an idea from an earlier answer, I dumped a sufficient quantity of Gold Bond Body Powder into a sock and proceeded to gently tap it inside each pannier until there was a fine film of powder lining the interior. <S> Just enough to absorb any undesirable odor and make we want to use them again. <S> Hope that helps. <A> Have you tried air and sunshine first? <S> I turn my panniers inside out and put them by an open window every month or two <S> Turning them inside out also makes it easy to remove debris. <A> Since the original comment is attached to a deleted post I'll repeat it here: <S> One I've used is Scent Killer , a laundry additive intended for use by hunters to remove the odor from their clothing (so they don't spook their prey). <S> Hydrogen peroxide can also be used for this (though it has a slight tendency to bleach colors). <S> The same agents can be useful for washing out smelly bike shorts.
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If your bag gets damp (inside) frequently, dry it out promptly and wad up newspaper in it, and that should absorb moisture from a bag (works for gloves and shoes.) There are special odor-killing laundry agents that can be quite effective against certain odors. Ask for, and insist on if necessary, a ziplock or similar plastic bag or wrap to keep the fish oil off of your bag. Using a mild washing machine soap in the bath tub with warm water, I dunked each pannier in and scrubbed all surfaces with a brush.
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What should I consider when buying a respirator? I'm using my bicycle to ride from home to work and back. Now I face a problem that the air is not so clean: dust, car exhaust etc. So I'm thinking of buying a respirator (i.e., an anti-pollution mask) to filter the air I breathe. But before I buy it I need advice on what should I consider when first choosing one? update I've got a respro bandit now and it seems to be what I needed. It really does it's job filtering the air well and doesn't make it too hard to breathe. <Q> You have a few options. <S> It's cheap to try, at only $25 or so. <S> The Respro is another option. <S> It seems like a bit more customizable, and looks like the neoprene would compress the mask against your face a bit better than the totobo, but it's probably really hot in the summer. <S> These run about $60-$75 for a mask. <S> Here's a forum link which has a bit of a personal comparison from a few cyclists who use these masks in bangalore. <S> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/bangalore-bikers/w2vgTWlsOH4/3KSlS0jOj0kJ <A> The only ones I know of are made by Respro , like this , but I'm sure other brands are available. <S> Summary: <S> yes, cycling-specific ones do exist. <S> Searching turns up some discussion, blogs, forums and user reviews in online cycling shops. <S> However, this is all anecdotal, and it isn't clear: how useful they are <S> this will depend quite particularly on your local style of air pollution; if you can find particulate emission information for your area, you might be able to figure out which mask will do the best job there <S> how badly they restrict airflow or cause overheating and moisture buildup <S> this will depend on things like your exertion level and local heat/humidity, so you may just need to try it and see <A> Trials on the N95 concluded that it didn't really do a good job filtering chemical pollution. <S> http://www.controlled-trials.com/ISRCTN74390617 <S> Hypothesis "To test if wearing the R95 Particulate Respirator face mask, produced by 3M reduces levels of pollution exposure biomarkers in 40 healthy volunteers. <S> " <S> Tests were done in Hanoi, Vietnam, from July to October 2009. <S> The results: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23013369 <S> RESULTS: <S> Forty-four participants (54.5% male, median age 40 years) were enrolled with the majority being motorbike taxi drivers (38.6%) or street vendors (34.1%). <S> The baseline creatinine corrected urinary level for 1-OHP was much higher than other international comparisons: <S> 1020 ng/g creatinine (IQR: 604-1551). <S> Wearing a R95 mask had no significant effect on 1-OHP levels: estimated multiplicative effect 1.0 (95% CI: 0.92-1.09) or other OH-PAHs, except 1-hydroxynaphthalene (1-OHN): 0.86 (95% CI: 0.11-0.96). <S> CONCLUSIONS: <S> High levels of urine OH-PAHs were found in Hanoi street workers. <S> No effect was seen on urine OH-PAH levels by wearing R95 particulate respirators in an area of high urban air pollution, except for 1-OHN. <S> A lack of effect may be de to gaseous phase PAHs that were not filtered efficiently by the respirator. <S> The high levels of urinary OH-PAHs found, urges for effective interventions. <A> I've worn the respro in Beijing for about a year where the air pollution apparently causes lung cancer. <S> Of course, that is a long term effect that is hard to measure immediately, but I can say that the air smells much cleaner and I "feel" better after riding through traffic with the mask on as opposed to without it. <S> Your face gets a bit sweaty, but it can be kind of nice in the winter. <S> Also, you look like bane from batman, which can be a good thing. <A> All these are passive masks and the lungs' muscles need to exert extra work to overcome the resistance to ar flow by the filer. <S> Would recommend the active respirator like www.ecbreathe.com <S> -This <S> ECBreathe uses battery power to help overcome the resstance and yo can breathe normally.
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One that has been marketed to cyclists has been the totobo mask which is from what I gather a re-usable N95 mask (although uncertified by any agency) with replaceable filter peices.
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Is it normal to have some soreness in your knees after cycling with SPD? I recently got some SPD pedals. Initially, my seat was too high (old pedals added about 3/4th of an inch to height), and at the end of the downstroke, pulled uncomfortably on my knees. After even moderate rides (~5k), it would be painful walking up stairs, for example. Anyway, figured that part out, lowered my seat, no problems for several weeks. Weather gets better, start ramping up the distance I travel, and now I find that I get a (much) less painful version of the same thing after longer rides (>40k) with a headwind. Is it normal to get some soreness in your knees, or is this a sign that the seat is still not at the right height? Is there an algorithmic way to adjust seat height? <Q> Whether the discomfort you are experiencing is simply muscle soreness, as in "I exercised heavily and my body noticed" or whether it requires corrective action, is harder to decide. <S> If the discomfort is only after heavy exercise, like 40 <S> + km rides in a headwind <S> , I'd be inclined to say its because the pedals are new to you, and you're building the muscle you need to use them, as your body adapts to pulling up <S> , not just pushing down on the pedal. <S> However, if this continues to be an issue for more than a few weeks, consider having a bike fit done which includes cleat positioning. <S> Also, if you are not riding off road, and you have purchased mountain bike style SPDs, rather than the road version, consider getting the larger and more supportive version. <S> Unfortunately, this would usually also require new shoes, but many riders report cramps, hot spots, and muscle soreness when riding longer, uninterrupted distances on MTB clipless pedal designs. <A> In addition to perhaps adjusting the height further, also have a look to see if the cleats are forcing your foot inwards or outwards. <S> That can cause problems with knee or ankle if it isn't lined up with your natural axis. <S> Some excerpts from <S> bikesplit.com : <S> Optimizing cleat position is crucial to minimize stress through your knees and maximize power output... <S> Several pedal types allow float (lateral rotation) <S> and that's the key to healthy knees for many athletes. <S> Float allows the foot to change the angle it pushes or pulls from at various points around the pedal stroke. <S> On the down stroke a straight forward foot position is natural, while pulling back a heel-in, toeing out position may feel more natural because the hamstrings are doing the work and their attachment point is toward the medial (center of the body). <S> Once set, cleat position should be neutral: there should be absolutely no twisting sensation through ankles, knees, or hips. <S> There are five dimensions to consider when setting cleat position: height, cant, front-to-back, side-to-side, and rotation. <S> Cleat height modification is to compensate for a leg length difference. <S> It's more important for the run than bike, but can still be helpful if your difference is 1cm or more. <S> Canting is tipping your foot to the inside or outside with a shim shaped like a wedge, usually tipping toward the lateral (outside). <S> For front to back adjustment <S> the ball of your foot should be directly over the pedal spindle. <S> Next you need to choose the best spot on the pedal laterally (side-to-side). <S> Too close and your ankle will hit the crank arm; too far away and <S> it will be awkward, like walking with feet spread far apart. <S> Setting the rotational position is ... <S> the most important setting to keep your knees happy as you pedal. <A> According to my copy of "A Guide to Cycling Injuries..." by Dr Domhnall MacAuley " Knee pain is almost an occupational hazard of cycling ". <S> MacAuley does go on to say that, " For some, knee pain is inevitable ". <S> In the context of this question it seems like the rider has some tendency to knee pain but has not experienced chronic problems with a properly fitted bike so it should be possible to accommodate the change in pedal and return to comfortable rides. <S> If it proves impossible to get the position (including saddle height) adjusted as per advice in the previous answer then it is possible that the change of pedal has restricted the freedom of movement of the foot causing stress on the knee, to continue from MacAuley: <S> "Cleat pedals are manufactured for the anatomically perfect but we are all different and although some may have symmetrical feet and legs most of us are not biomechanically identical. <S> Clipless pedals will emphasise any anatomical anomaly or biomechanical misalignment. <S> If you have any tendency to knee pain then perhaps these pedals are not suitable." <A> And in addition to checking your setup, float, fitting et al, check your insoles... <S> have you got flat feet? <S> I suffered knee pain, and messed around with set-up and fitting for a long time until I discovered my flat feet where the cause. <S> Reason being as you power down your feet <S> go flat and move the knee slightly. <S> So I got some good footbeds(Sole) <S> that mould to and support my feet, took some rest and have never had a problem since(a year). <S> The footbeds in most cycling shoes are garbage, and that goes for running shoes as well. <A> You should note where on your knee(s) <S> the pain is originating. <S> Is it on the side? <S> The front? <S> The back? <S> Check out this article. <S> Previously, when I was riding with SPDs, I had a misaligned cleat (but didn't know it). <S> I was getting pain on the outside of my right knee. <S> I went to a fitting, and after describing why I was there, the first thing the fitter looked at was the SPD cleat on my right shoe. <S> When the cleat was aligned, the pain went away. <S> You may want to check your overall fit. <S> If you don't want to pay for that, I would suggest that you try this online fit computer and see how the outputs match with the current configuration of your bike.
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If your bike is set up with a proper fit to your body, and your pedal's cleat position is set up for your body, soreness in your knees like you describe is not normal. If you can find a professional fitter, and plan to ride a lot, it would probably be worth it to get fitted. So some knee pain is common. Before giving up, do check that you have sufficient float in the cleat/pedal, different systems provide for different levels of float.
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Should I put my wider tire in front or in back? My used bike came with a 700x28 tire in front and a 700x23 tire in back. Should I leave the wider tire in front, or should I switch the tires? What benefits or drawbacks are there one way or the other? Is there any particular reason why the previous owner might have chosen non-matching tires? Is there any reason I should go out of my way to buy a new tire to make them match? The found a little bit of information about tire sizing , but I still don't feel like I know what to do. <Q> Generally on a road bike it is considered better to run tires of equal size. <S> There are a few newer tires which are designed to run different sizes front and rear, but they are usually within 2 mm of each other. <S> (Like the Continental Attack/Force combination ) <S> I would consider a jump from 28c to 23c somewhat large. <S> That said, run the larger on the rear. <S> The higher air volume will make for a more comfortable ride, and the narrower front tire will steer quicker, which makes for more reactive handling, and has a better aero profile, (which may or may not matter to you). <S> The comfort part will matter though, and I'd say that's a trump card. <A> If you have to make a choice, put the wider tire on the back. <S> (Most likely the previous owner had to replace one of the tires and just used what was available.) <A> Larger front tire for the win, its a trick messengers use. <S> Increase braking power w/ out increasing as much weight as running both tires large. <A> A wider wheel = more traction <S> Traction is important for torque and braking. <S> Torque is driven through back-wheel and braking on both, and braking too much in the front relative to the back can result in the rider flipping over the handle-bar. <S> Edited in agreement with comment. <A> I am running a 32c up front and a 23c in the rear in my single speed road bike. <S> I commute a lot on rough roads and it rides a lot smoother. <S> So far it works great for me. <S> I also remember in the old days we would run a fat tire up front and a skinny tire in the rear on our BMX bikes. <S> All I can say is the best thing to do is borrow a different sized tire or find an old one and experiment and if it feels right for you and go out and buy what works
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Generally there's more weight on the back, plus having the wider tire in front will make make steering more difficult. Therefore, put the wheel where it matters most, i.e. the back.
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Learning more about racing I don't race and never will race. However, I am very interested in learning more about it. I read a number of cycling magazines, and I read about so many different racing terms, strategy etc. but they are never explained. Does any know of a good source (like a Bicycle Racing 101 course) where I can learn more about racing? <Q> For just learning, it is even better than actually being at a race because you can see what is going on <S> and there's plenty of background stories. <S> Now is the BEST time for stage racing because the Giro has just started . <S> Steephill.tv has bunch of links for online video coverage of the Giro. <S> If you have sports cable channels check those too. <S> The Tour de France in July is also fantastic because of the coverage, but the Giro is usually a more interesting and gritty spectacle, IMHO. <A> I learned a lot about racing when I had a roommate who was on a local team and raced full-time for a couple years (and then part-time since.) <S> I don't know if it's the same now, at the time it was a magazine for serious racers, not at all like the glossy newsstand magazines. <A> In addition to watching, there are lots of things to read, for instance the great autobiographies like <S> Laurent Fignon's We Were Young and Carefree (" Nous étions jeunes et insouciants "), Bobet's Tommorow <S> We Ride and David Millar's Riding Through The Dark - all of these have large sections devoted to races, racing and reacting to events. <S> The Rider by Tim Krabbe is fiction, but not really, giving wonderfully evocative descriptions of being a racing cyclist. <S> There are also some good bloggers, e.g. In The Saddle and Rouleur Magazine (which has some great articles if you can find it in your locale). <S> And then go to YouTube and search for Sunday in Hell. <S> Probably the best movie ever made about cycling, not all about the strategies, but definitely a lot about how to race.
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The best thing to do is to watch television coverage of races. I also learned a lot reading my roommate's Velo News magazines. You probably don't want to take on a roomie just to learn about racing, but you might be able to volunteer to help out a local team.
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Is this a good road bike frameset to consider building for a 5'6" rider? Can this frame be used to build a decent road bike for someone 1.73m (5.6 feet)? It has 58cm ST, 58cm TT. 7005 aluminum Easton Ultralite aero tubing. 1" aluminum threadless fork. I'm coming from MBX and never even rode a road bike :) What are the things i should look for? nothing too indepth, just the major mistakes i can make when starting with a frameset. For one thing, is a 15yr old aluminium aero even a good choice these days? <Q> Given the age of the frame, it's limitations in terms of component choice, and the size of the frame compared to what I would expect a rider of the height described by the OP to ride, I would say building this frame is a waste of money and time. <S> For a rider who is 5'6" tall, a typical frame size is 52cm. <S> This frame is a 58 cm, 3 sizes large. <S> Even if you have an unusual body type which pushes you to a larger than average frame, unless you are wildly out of proportion, you will not move up by 3 frame sizes. <S> While many people ride alloy bikes which are 10 or more years old, the useful, efficient life of an alloy frame is typically 5 years. <S> Had you owned and ridden this bike for 10 years, so that you were familiar with its limitations, handling, and perhaps attached to the frame sentimentally, I might consider rebuilding it. <S> Since that is not the case, I would not spend the money to build a frame with no useful life left. <S> And last, if you build this frame, it is likely that you will have difficulty sourcing properly sized parts, or will have to compromise with shims and adaptors to make the build work. <S> I know that 1" stems are getting rare, and it's possible that the axle width on this frame is narrower than a typical modern road bike, although that is only guesswork. <S> But at the end of the day, it's your bike, and your body. <S> You will need to decide for yourself. <A> It's impossible for anyone to give firm answers to any of these questions without more detail. <S> Get in contact your LBS. <S> However, my gut reactions: The frame is probably too big for you. <S> I'm 6'2" and comfortably ride a 58cm frame. <S> At 5'6", you will likely want something smaller. <S> Use an online fit calculator or go into your LBS to get fitted. <S> Carbon forks are a significant improvement over aluminum, and you can easily find inexpensive bikes with aluminum frames and carbon forks or completely carbon frame and fork. <S> Unless you're getting a great deal on this frame, I suspect you can do much better for an equivalent price. <S> If the fork is threaded (i.e., the steer tube has screw threads going up it), I'd pass. <S> Virtually all road bikes nowadays use threadless steerers, so finding good threaded road stems is becoming more and more difficult. <S> Any other component compatibility would need to be determined by your LBS. <S> What's the threading of the BB shell? <S> What's the dropout spacing? <S> Are there cracks? <S> Structural weaknesses? <S> Aluminum fatigues constantly throughout use unlike steel or carbon. <S> Steel can potentially last forever, while aluminum has a fundamentally limited lifespan. <S> Without knowing the price, I can't say definitively, but all my instincts say to pass on this one. <A> Looks like a basic alu frame from a lesser known mfg. <S> Probably fine. <S> Some things to consider with a new (or used) frame: Check alignment of frame and fork, check that spacing is correct for your hubs. <S> (see sheldon brown article ) <S> Look for cracks. <S> Should be easy to see with yellow paint. <S> Have BB professionally installed. <S> This will ensure that your cranks are in proper alignment. <S> At 15 years old, the frame may or may not use recessed nuts on the brakes. <S> If not, your brake caliper choice will be limited. <S> Can't help you with sizing. <S> It depends on your exact measurements, not just height.
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Competitve cyclist has an elaborate sizing procedure that you can use to determine if a frame is approximately correct. It's probably too big for you, objectively better frames are likely comparatively cheap, and potential component compatibility issues won't exist with newer frames. In addition, since the frame is alloy, and 15 years old, at least, there is the issue of metal fatigue to consider. The condition of the frame would need to evaluated by your LBS. All in all, I see many reasons not to build it, and none to go ahead.
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Are Allen key or Security Key skewers appropriate for bikes with rear facing horizontal dropouts I have a surly karate monkey set up as a single speed. The frame has rear facing horizontal dropouts (track style). I don't like quick releases due to potential theft when locking up my bike. Are standard Allen key skewers or security skewers (like hublox or pitlock) going to hold my rear wheel tight enough to avoid sliding forward in the dropouts? If not, would zefal locking skewers be appropriate? <Q> It depends on how aggressive you ride. <S> If you are a casual rider and rarely do many jumps or drops then they should work just fine. <S> I have also snapped a number of hollow axles because they are just not strong enough for the riding I do. <S> So I switched to solid axles which are stronger (ultimately cheaper too). <S> I have never had a problem with theft since I lock my both wheels with the frame. <S> If solid axles are not what you are looking for, I like the pitlock (that doesnt have the hex outer body), they can both be removed by a determined thief with a pipe-wrench, but the inactive side is smaller and harder to grip. <S> Either one will hold the wheel in place about the same though. <A> There is no issue with using a Q/R or fixed end anti theft skewer on a horizontal dropout. <S> They are well above the threshold of strength required to fix your wheel in the dropouts. <A> I was looking into a similar thing today, and the Pitlock FAQ specifically states: "If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system. <S> Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). <S> Here the assembly with PITLOCK works without problems. " <S> I suspect the same is true for other manufacturers, but I have not checked. <A> in my experience bolt on rear wheels with horizontal drop outs / single speeds actually perform better.
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As for allen keys, its slightly harder than a quick release, but its safe to assume an allen key or hex nut or similar standard non-security skewer is not much safer than a quick release -- any thief can/will have tools to remove it very quickly. I am a pretty aggressive rider and have snapped more than my fair share of skewers trying to keep the wheel in place. Thus, the manufacturer states for track dropouts that you should not use Pitlock skewers.
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Is it worth it to reverse the wrap direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers? The Park Tool Handlebar Tape Installation guide suggests that the direction of wrapping can be either self tightening or prone to loosening. Its basic instructions make the tape self-tightening on the tops. The guide also describes how to start wrapping in a direction that makes the tape self-tightening in the drops, and then at the brake levers to switch to a direction that makes the tape self-tightening on the tops. How much of a difference does the direction of wrapping make in practice? Is loosening of handlebar wrap a common problem? Are there any downsides to reversing the direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers, and if so, is it worth it? <Q> Yes, it is worth it, because it adds to the longevity of the useful period of utility for your tape, and is more likely to be comfortable and stable in the bargain. <S> Ideally, you wrap to the outside of the drops, figure 8 around the hoods, which will leave you wrapping from back to front on the tops. <S> This direction will necessarily be opposite on the other side of the bar. <S> So counter-clockwise from the rear of the drop on the non drive side of the bike, and clockwise on the drive side. <S> On the tops of the bars, the tape should pass under the bar toward the bike, and over the bar away from the bike. <S> That fits the rotation direction of your grip, and will hold the tape in place, rather than forcing it looser (or off). <A> I have wrapped bars both ways, and have never really noticed a difference. <S> That said, I do now reverse the direction of the wraps due to personal preference. <A> I wrap inward and use a 3 figure eights or outward and use 2. <S> This sets it up so the tape is wrapping towards the rider for the tops. <S> I also use upside down electrical tape below the grifters and near the drops. <S> I don't use the press in plugs if I can find the screw type compression plugs so the tape at the ends is a must. <S> It also makes starting easier. <S> I avoid using the spare piece of tape behind the brifter as well.
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In other words, starting your wrap from the bar end at the bottom of the drop, you wrap the tape so that it crosses from the frame side to the outside of the bar.
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What map / navigation / bike direction apps are available for the iphone for commuting / urban cycling I'm switching from an android phone to an iphone soon. I use the google maps bike directions all the time to figure out how to get to friend's houses, restaurants, bars and navigating around a new city, usually with no pre-planning on a computer. On my droid, I just bring up google maps, type in an address, and get bike directions. However, the iphone doesn't have bike directions on the maps app. What is a good native app alternative for the iphone? I'm not trying to track my rides. Just trying to figure out how to get from A to B. Update:It does seem that the cycling layer and bike directions are serviceable in a pinch on the google maps website when viewed on the iPhone or android device, but a native app would be more desirable. Edit: June 2014 : Google Maps on the iPhone does support bicycle routes. <Q> Have you tried "Get there by bike"? <S> http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/get-there-by-bike-interactive/id457288250?mt=8 <S> The few times i tried it i had good results. <S> Another alternative, <S> but i have not used yet. <S> http://www.bikemapsapp.com/ <A> If you are in the UK, use CycleStreets . <S> It's a free journey-planning website designed specifically for cycling, so it can route you across off-road cycle tracks and bridges, and it gives you a choice of faster routes for more confident cyclists, and quieter routes if you want to avoid traffic. <S> As well as the main and a mobile website, they have free apps for iPhone and Android. <S> It uses data from OpenStreetMap (the wiki-like atlas anyone can edit), so even if it doesn't find a route you know is there, you can add the missing link yourself, or ask the developers to improve it. <S> I use it all the time. <S> Sorry <S> if you're not in the UK, as it's currently UK only: as a not-for-profit they can't yet afford the server capacity to route in other countries too. <A> Google Maps for iPhone now has bike layer support and bike-specific navigation starting with update on July 16, 2013, version 2.0 <A> Tomtom for me. <S> A little expensive <S> but I like having built-in maps so that the mapping works when there is no phone reception. <S> The voice directions are also good enough not to need looking at the phone. <A> You can also get suggested rides for any area. <S> It's available on Android and iPhone, so whichever you decide to stay with/go to! <S> iPhone: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bikepath/id513898258?mt=8 Website with more info: http://www.bikepathcountry.com <A> Try Bike On - Voice navigation for bikers <S> https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bike-on-bicycle-routes-maps/id640958131?mt=8 <A> See bikecityguide - available on both iOS and Android. <S> Its maps & routing are based on OpenStreetMap <S> so if a certain bike route is not available on the map you could add it yourself. <S> They have a couple of city packs - if your city fits that then you're in luck <S> (I goes you could use it in any other city, but those city packs are really bike optimized). <S> A cool feature they have is the fact that use bike adapted turn-by-turn navigation instructions (see the app and you'll understand) <S> and they also work offline ( <S> good to have while traveling)
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There's a new free app called Bikepath Country that has simple point A to point B cycling directions.
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Should I get a road bike? Last year I started biking again. My current ride is a quite good "cross" bike weighing a bit more than 10kg (~22lb, I didn't weigh it). Currently I'm doing around 200km (~120 mi) per week, mostly on roads. Now I'm wondering whether a road bike would be beneficial for day-trips or such. I live near the Alps in a hilly area. Is there a notable benefit from the lower weight of a road bike? (I weigh 80kg, 175lb) Unless it's a really step difference or a I pay a lot for a very light bike I don't expect much benefit, but might I be wrong? I wonder how notable road bike tires might be, I'm expecting way less resistance. Any way to qualify that? A road bike handlebar has more ways it can be gripped, which might be comfortable on longer rides. A road bike looks nicer :-p Are there more important factors I should consider? I'd certainly keep my current bike for times where I have to carry luggage or want to stay off roads. <Q> It's all about having the right tool for the job. <S> Road and touring bikes are designed for long rides on roads. <S> In contrast, mountain bikes are designed to go off road, and hybrids are designed mostly for casual riding. <S> If you're doing 200 km per week, you're serious enough about cycling to notice a serious difference when you switch to a road bike. <S> I recently made a similar switch. <S> I was riding a mountain bike, which I used for commuting, off-road trails, and road rides. <S> I eventually found that I was only spending about 10% of my riding off-road. <S> I considered switching to thin slick tires, but it was obvious to me that I also needed more hand placement options, a more aggressive riding position, a higher maximum gear, and lighter weight. <S> In other words, I needed a road bike. <S> When I sold my mountain bike and got a road bike, I instantly noticed a 2 to 5 kph speed improvement for the same effort. <S> You could at least rent one for a day and see how it feels. <S> Alternatively, you could consider switching just the handlebars and tires on your current bike, since it sounds like you already have a light-weight frame. <A> If you are committed and serious about your biking, which sounds like you are if you already ride 120 a week, I think a road bike would have more pros than cons. <S> Keep your other bike for the coffee shop and errands. <S> I have a commuter hybrid bike that i dont mind locking up, getting groceries with, and such. <S> I put on a chain guard and flat pedals and love the casual ride to the office. <A> Purely anecdotally... <S> Back in 1998, a friend <S> and I did an organized 45 mile charity ride. <S> My friend was on a road bike <S> and I was riding a mountain bike (with slicks). <S> Thing is, I could not keep up. <S> Within a week, I owned a "road bike". <S> If you want to go faster, and longer, get a road bike. <S> If not, stay with your current bike. <S> Should you get a road bike or not? <S> That's hard to say. <S> wdy
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Since you're considering switching from a cyclocross bike to a road bike, you should expect a less dramatic change, but if you feel like you're losing out from using the wrong tool for the job, you might as well try a road bike.
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