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Well exactly
Again, look into the high silver solders. Silver is good shit. Bismuth solders can melt even lower then lead/tin solders though don't know what kinda soldering charactistics they have.
Good lead free solder is unobtainable, therefore for the same price, lead free is shit compared to leaded
Good lead free solder is obtainable, but at digikey/mouser/ebay/amazon/etc and you have to know what alloy you want cause there is like, 50 lol
And some of those alloys definately suck, vs just saying 'yea get the leaded stuff' narrowing it down to 2 alloys that are both pretty good.
also, the lead free stuff they include with soldering irons?
throw that shit out
generally its the cheapest crap in existance
last time I tried to use some, I thought my iron was broken because it just wouldn't melt. like at all
consumables included with tools are often the worst consumables ever though.
Like bandsaws come with carbon steel blades that hardly qualify as 'blade', and any $20 bimetal blade would last 5x longer and leave better cuts.
I heard it’s the flux that makes the biggest difference
getting a seperate jar of flux was one of my better purchases.. years.. and years.. and YEARS ago, still got the same tiny 1" jar lol
And yea, flux is also why overheating your iron is bad, and why your 'supposed to heat the thing not the solder'
If you overheat your iron, it burns off the flux
if you apply solder to the iron and then try to get it to flow onto the part, it burns off the flux.
but if you just preflux the damn thing, you can basically do whatever the hell you want
apply some solder to tip of iron, touch to part, solder heats up flux, melts it onto thing that needs fluxing, heats up part further, solder flows, done.
Especially great for soldering stranded wires.
so hard to heat those properly to get flux core solder to flow into them
Y'all ever notice that one wheel mfs are nuts
yes
100% lol.
No evidence yet of the actual fire or anything so take with a pinch of salt but…
Genius homeowners insurance fraud strategy
Remember, if you're going to use cheap batteries, they better not be big ones
I get away with cheap batteries because they are like 4ah each. Not enough current to really stress them out.
Which 4 ah batteries are you using?
I've used drill batteries and those shitty hoverboard batteries
Id honestly be more suprised if UPP hasen't burnt down someones house by now
They already did, someone lost a court case to them when his house burnt down
Lemme guess how that court case went
Defendant: "This battery burned down my house"
UPP: "Not present"
Judge: "I find in favor of the defendant, But since UPP doesn't have any kind of operations in the USA/Canada/Austrailia/whereever this happened, my ruling means nothing whatsoever and you'll never collect a dollar"
Or maybe they took the case to chinese courts.
Defendant: "This battery burned down my house"
Judge, in chinese: "I don't understand english so I am finding in favor of UPP"
_googles..._
`In Vancouver, from Jan. 1, 2021 to Aug. 22, 2022 there were 34 fires caused by recharging batteries which led to five deaths, seven injuries and $12.2 million in property damage.`
Wow, I can't believe that. 34 fires and only *one* house burnt down. Amazing.
*cough crazy ass vancouver housing costs*
(ok so more realistically it was 10~20 houses for a 12 million dollar figure)
https://www.azfamily.com/2023/01/27/lithium-battery-explosion-electric-bike-blame-house-fire-glendale/
@Black Moons
Seems that guy claiming UPP burnt his house down was legit
I always charge outside with an extension cord at least 10ft away from the house
Is there more chance for a 2-3yr old battery to f up ?
What when it's cold out? You really shouldn't charge in cold
We’ll just not in freezing because of lithium plating
It's been -11c for the last 5dayz
Oops üò¨
Charging in temperatures that low is *really bad.*
You're actively damaging the cells and increasing risk of them shorting out, whether they do it now or unpredictably down the line.
Bms should stop charge below 0c but those cheap bms dont have temp protect
I'm scared to charge it inside
Not sure what I should do in this case
well now it has chance shorting and then it starts to burn
Guess I'll keep it outside and far from the house
That's a rough spot to be in. You've got a battery you don't trust, but you're actively damaging it in a fire-inducing way by charging it in the cold. Which you've already been doing.
I don't have any specific advice. Seems like you don't have any good options.
I would dispose that battery and keep next battery warm or get batttery heating blacket for next battery
Would it be ok to charge outside if wrapped in heating blanket
Note that battery is 2.5 yrs old and have been charging outside it's lifespan
Best to keep it in cold temps as opposed to cold/warm fluctuations at this point?
If you can get the internal pack temperature to 10C or higher, you won't be risking damage via charging.
Regardless of prior history (though that's *really not good*), you'll need to get it warm while charging if you want to stop doing additional damage to it.
So it only counts while charging right?
Not while sitting
Yeah. Storage at low temperatures is fine.
Discharge is fine as well, though you'll see worse discharge performance while cold, as you're likely already aware.
Yup!
Thanks for the tips
I just fixed the problem I've been having with the motor too btw
Nice! What was the problem?
Corrosion
Cutting out after 3sec of throttle and loud grinding noise
Corroded connector and or solder problem from controller connector
Feels good to be back on the road!
Nice!
Glad it was an easy enough fix
Me too!
Heating blanket is fine, just make sure to check temps and/or use one that is properly temp regulated.
Or get a battery you can trust
I got one from amazon that advertises 100W and has a temp setting on the controller instead of just 1/2/3/4 power levels, Pretty sure it actually is regulated cause it heats up FAST but doesn't get scalding hot
(also you can watch the 'current temp' on the controller as it heats up)
(its more of a heating pad, so 100W is crazy high power lol)
Guess I can plug it into my old e-bike battery+inverter while I charge my big one
Ok folks , I had for the longest time , on my bbshd, during one revolution of the motor (or cranks) about 6 small vibrations and can hear a small clunking noise , it happened after my derailleur got caught in my cassette and locked up , Ive been riding it ever since but only recently while climbing up a hill the noise became into a loud clunk and gave away right after , so now it spins without moving me
I've been told it's either a nylon gear or pinion gear
Hoping it's the nylon gear because I have a spare steel gear
If you have either power level or temp settings then the heater is regulated. Unregulated heaters just get hotter indefinitely until you run out of power or fire
@Armatus ... And what did you expect a regulated heater to have?
If not.. a temperature setting?
do your cranks spin more freely?
Could it be that ya clutch pawl has shit itself?
You said "pretty sure it actually is regulated", I was just confirming that is the case if you have some kind of controller for the heater
you can totally just buy a a silicone heater and apply direct voltage and get heat, but this is an obvious recipe for disaster
The degree of accuracy for what your heater temp controller is displaying vs reality can vary a lot from brand to brand, but having a heater controller at all basically puts you in the clear. There are controllers that do not feature safety cut-offs if expected temp is below read temp for extended durations, which can be caused by a faulty thermistor or broken wires. Controllers that don't have a safety shutoff in this case will continue to heat the heater until failure of the power source, max temp of the heater, or fire
In 3D printer land this is known as "Thermal Runaway"