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Hold on a sec I have something to show you
See if you think it is repairable
And lasts like a year in that use. (so long as you wipe all the talc off the rubber first LOL)
Or what parts I'll need
I'm guessing this is what caused my hub motor to eventually give out
what is?
Oh.. is that a crack?
Yup
If you can find the origional seller of your motor, or its model, you MIGHT be able to buy a new side plate
Had a mid drive running with my hub motor as rear wheel (when i didn't have spare wheel )
I wouldn't try and fix that though... Not without like.... a tig welder and throwing more metal at it
.. that torque would explain the crack lol.
But my motor randomly started to cut out at times before completely dyeing on me
Wondering if this would have anything to do with it
Really want to only use 'cassette' style rear wheels with a mid drive.
Doubt it had anything to do with the mid drive cutting out.
No the hub
Is the one that cut out
Oh. yea that could do it
motor grinding away the hall sensors or something, or something else flexing.
I've also stripped countless freewheel tools trying to get that freewheel off lol
Welp good news I don't think you need to get it off.
Guess I'll open it up someday and have a look
First I'm gonna check if connectors were corroding (previous problem I had with my new hub)
since your gonna have to cut off your power connector anyway (if it exits that side), and then replace the whole side plate.
Didn’t we say that using a mid drive and a hub motor at the same time is dangerous
(if you can get a new sideplate is a question too..)
It’s just that I’ve told this to like a dozen people
Might just have to stick to the welding
And over half of them have cracked the hub motor
Actually dunno if you can remove the motor with the freewheel in place.
I only found out after it was too late üòÖ
Rip
Since you might need to remove some bolts from the axle
(like the motor/axle might stick to the side plate)
@StarTrak I wonder if cassette hubs would suffer as badly?
They do
Cassette hub motors also
@StarTrak Interesting. do cassette based hubmotors not have the supporting bearing shown above?
.. I guess not (for most?) since most can literally just have a sideplate swapped?
It’s the metal they’re made of that’s really weak and shitty
And not designed for that much torque
In that direction
Most people’s legs can’t do that consistently
@StarTrak Id wager a 'cassette' only motor might be designed to handle it. But prob not the 90%+ of motors that have been redesigned to do both freewheel or cassette via different sideplates
(redesigned from freewheel only to also have freehub option)
Like, Id prob trust a grin all axle or someshit. Just not anything on aliexpress lol
I know it pulls 2000w rated 1500 , I've overheated the motor a couple times to the point it shut down with error code. Had to wait for it to cool off , and high torque hill climbs
@mhatayas Overheating the motor that badly can partially demagnatise the magnets
(reduces efficiency and V/RPM, giving you less torque but higher no-load RPM)
Wow!
So I radially laced my rear 12g spokes on my new hub motor (ordered spokes a lil too short so had no choice but to) the wheel pulls to the left side considerably more than the right , would it be because I laced one full side before the other ?
Surprisingly with the amount of torque I've exerted there's no signs of loosening or spoke damage (the spokes are a higher gage than the previous)
And yea, Most chinese aluminum alloys are... Very silicon heavy for ease of casting. But makes them very brittle and crumbly.
Ye
(see: even grade 3 bolts stripping the hell outta aluminum castings before failing)
Radial lacing is REALLY bad if you have torque going through the wheel @mhatayas
You cannot radially lace a wheel used with a mid drive
Fun fact: in 6061 bar aluminum, straight from metalmart, I had to reduce it to less then *3* threads for a grade 11.8 bolt to strip the threads before the bolt snapped in half from overtorquing. (required 20~22ft-lbs to snap, recommended torque is 6~8ftlbs or so)
It has to be at least single cross
I laced it knowing that , but like I said I had no choice because I ordered themtoo short
Only front wheels can easily be radially laced
My tire nearly scrapes my frame on the left side
Would it be because I laced the right side and tightened them entirely before the left
Make sure you tension both sides properly
You need to adjust the lengths to adjust dishing
Also noted that the rim was not the same
Why on earth would you tighten all of 1 side before the other..
I had no clue what I was doing at the time
that means the entire rim is going to be centered on one side.. and then your trying to 'pull it back' by.. yanking the ever living snot outta the ones already 'tight' until they are 'far too tight'
Eeek
Sounds pretty bad
You basically need to have the entire thing installed and loose. and then SLOWLY tension every spoke equally WHILE monitoring dish, side to side wobble and roundness
I guess I'll just leave it as is (been riding it for 2months now)
No, tension it properly
Then true the wheel
You need a building stand. Or stick it into the bike and use some zipties to fake one
That's what I'll have to do
this.
I’ve radially laced before
So I can tell you from experience
I have some beefier spokes now proper lenght I'm gonna try to fix my old motor
this also works (using your bike + zipties as the stand)
... Nice, I like this version
I've watched a couple YouTube tutorials and fixed wobble the zip tie way
But another problem, my rim is kinda bent now where the seam is
But it didn't seem too bad of a problem, the spokes take the force
.... Yes because its under immense amounts of tension trying to rip it apart right now because it wasent tensioned properly.
@StarTrak Yaknow, Iv never seen the aftermath of someone improperly tensioning a wheel so bad it splits in two. Will be exciting to pin those pictures in a month or two.
Heh
Hold on I'll take a pic
You can see one lip is lifted up almost over the other
https://tenor.com/view/oh-no-no-nope-nah-head-shaking-gif-16463405
dats... not good
üòÇ
The whole bike is a disaster waiting to happen
Well, im glad we can agree on something.
Yet I still press throttle fully each time I mount it
@mhatayas Well... Duh. This is why I tell people their battery has to be rated for 'continuous' whatever their controllers 'peak' is.
If it wasn't for traffic im sure most people would be glad to just have an on/off button as their e-bike throttle