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Don't think it's my clutch pawls , was working fine all along, although my previous bbshd that has happened to
Gonna have to tear it apart I guess!
Hoping it's the nylon gear
But whatever it is it has 4-6 revolutions per 1 crank revolution
How cold is ok for storage?
You'll want to check the datasheet for whatever cells are in your pack, if you want a precise minimum. A bit under freezing is generally fine though.
my 2c without knowing the full story...if you can fit the battery in a metal box, that would be a reasonably safe way to charge it inside. Something like an ammo can you can get at like harbor freight or a bigger ammo can you can get online...worst case battery has issues, its in a metal box that should keep it contained for a bit
A 50cal amo belt carrier and then get Cork to cover the interior. You can drill a pass through. Savest way to go.
Yea you can get 50cal at harbor, or bigger online
Guess I'll need a new derailleur.
What wrong
What happened
Used the wrong derailleur.
That one is for the paddle type. While I was using a barrel shifter.
Could this be the cause of my controllers capacitor blowing?
@mhatayas While exposed strands on a motor are definately very bad, I would suspect to see more...
https://cdn.discordapp.c…90302_195051.jpg
this. Id expect to see more this if it shorted out.
At the very least, some of the strands would have exploded themselves
And it very much would have exploded your output fets long before any capacitors.
Who the fuck uses scissors to cut wire?
@Rad Not that guy... anymore
Are you that guy?
Nope.
I have proper sidecutters for that.
Ask @Yadi
I had the temp sensor error and watched a YouTube video on repairing a hall board by adding solder , I did that and when I try the motor made a high pitch squeal kinda noise..
Then I kicked it in frustration and that's when the controller capacitor blew , smelt a funny smell
You can only repair a hall board by adding solder if the origional board had dry solder joints.
Yeah the squeel was you cap dying
What do you mean by dry solder joints?
Solder joints that lack enough solder
Hold up I'll send a pic
can't tell whats going on there as resolution isn't good enough
why is there a large blob on C2?
I added solder to it
According to the video tutorial
That is horrible
does the solder.. cross both sides of C2?
If so, you just fried your controller by shorting out its hall power supply...
You need to heat the pin and pad up more so it actually flows around it
Blobs on pins be bad
@Zelhero I was posting explicitly bad joints to show what it looked like
Please don't suggest @mhatayas do anything until he at least posts pictures clear enough to tell what has gone wrong.
'temp sensor error' would have to do with the components between 'ground' and 't'
and likely nothing to do with the capacitors (C2/3/4/5 etc)
I'm prying it up right now to see underneath
your gonna likely wreck hall sensors/etc doing that...
Fair point moon, also didn't realize c2 is a smd component which is hard to work with anyway
I have an extra board on the way
@mhatayas Then id recommend you remove the whole board and replace it, and buy 'silicone self fusing tape' to fix that phase wire with bits poking out
Do note: electrical tape will NOT work and will just melt. you need *silicone*. Electrical tape melts around 90c, and silicone melts around 200c
.. And that wire is prob already silicone insulated and only melted because you drove the motor so hard.
Still can't see it very well, but the only bad solder job that picture allows me to see is the one on C2
... because it looks like solder is shorting it out entirely
You need much higher light and hold the camera ever so slightly further away, as well as clean the lens
also uh, whats this?
I clipped off the wire
Seeing as half of it was already dislodged
all these solder joints look like they have been attacked with a cold iron
H1/H2/H3..
Can't tell whats going on with C2 or why there is a clear blob over em all..
It's glue
Should I add more solder to the ones I didn't add
Id recommend replacing the hall board, controller and note that you'll likely need silicone insulated wire to extend that motor lead (if needed), or much thicker wire to prevent from overheating.
I recommend not attempting to resolder that board without previous soldering experience, especially not the surface mount capacitors.
Especially not with glue in the way
Gotcha , and I think it may have happened from excess pressure when trying to put motor casing back on , I pressed a bit harder than I should have in frustration
Yes, it does look a bit like physical damage (the wire)
I'm gonna order some of that silicone insulated wire and wait till all my parts come in to fix this bad boy
always make sure wires are where they should be while closing something up, Because they love nothing more then poking out the case. (literally happened to me yesterday while closing up a motor panel)
had to reopen it and poke em back into place like twice before it would close -_-;
This is my old motor btw, I have a new bbshd has a problem I don't know yet. Hoping it's the nylon gear , gonna find out soon ish or tomorrow
It sucks !!!
Yea. cause as you close it they bend towards the edges of the case
and get 'longer'
Yup!
I retrieved my steel gear from this motor in hopes it's the nylon gear in the other motor
Have a spare nylon I'm gonna put back into this one
If its a mid drive, it MIGHT not be silicone wire.. Hub motors all use it though cause they need thin wires to get through the axle
Also the clutch is ruined in this one
But silicone insulated wire is awesome soo
no harm in using it
It feels like silicone
Soft and rubbery
Yea, then silicone it is
(or some similar high temp insulation)
And yea, silicone self fusing tape (warning: it LOVES to fuse with itself once you remove the backing lol)
and its like $10 for a tiny ass roll of the stuff -_-;
I've actually submerged this motor more than once for 15+ seconds crossing rivers ü´¢
lol
yea I noticed the rust
Sweet I will be ordering some
Yea its like the sexyest electrical tape.. also can be used to fix leaks? (I think? I wouldn't really trust it lol)
I bought some to rubberize a drive roller on my belt sander but I could never get it to apply evenly enough to be balanced at 10,000rpm
My uncle has a water leak under his sink maybe I'll find that out
Yeah that's a tricky task I bet
(went back to streching 1/2" bicycle inner tubes over the 1" roller lol)
Would be easier if the roller didn't have a 1 1/2" lip on it..
Bicycle inner tubes strech a lot though lol